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diff --git a/old/41268.txt b/old/41268.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b58bc79..0000000 --- a/old/41268.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3055 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Manual Training Toys for the Boy's Workshop, by -Harris W. Moore - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Manual Training Toys for the Boy's Workshop - -Author: Harris W. Moore - -Release Date: November 2, 2012 [EBook #41268] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MANUAL TRAINING TOYS *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Paul Mitchell and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - -Transcriber's Note. In the section SAND WHEEL--PLATE 21, third -paragraph, the word "on" was added as the most likely word to correct -a typographical omission and "drawn" changed to "draw". Otherwise only a -very few minor typographical errors have been corrected. - - - - -[Illustration: TESTING THE KITE-STRING SAILBOAT] - - - - - MANUAL TRAINING TOYS - _for_ THE BOY'S WORKSHOP - - _By_ HARRIS W. MOORE - - SUPERVISOR OF MANUAL TRAINING - - WATERTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS - - [Illustration] - - THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS - PEORIA, ILLINOIS - - - - - DEDICATED - TO THE BOY WHO LIKES - TO TINKER 'ROUND - - - - - Copyright, 1912 - HARRIS W. MOORE - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - Frontispiece Testing the Kite-string Sailboat - - Introduction-- PAGE. - - Bench, Marking Tools 7 - - Saws 8 - - Planes, Bits, Nails 9 - - Screws, Glue 10 - - Sandpaper, Dowels, Drills, Sharpening 11 - - Holding Work 12 - - Directions for Planing 13 - - Dart 16 - - Spool Dart 18 - - Dart for Whip-Bow 19 - - Buzzer 20 - - Flying Top (Plate 3) 22 - - Flying Top (Plate 4) 24 - - Top 26 - - Tom-Tom Drum 28 - - Pop-gun 30 - - Whistle 32 - - Arrow 33 - - Bow 34 - - Sword 36 - - Magic Box 38 - - Pencil-Box 41 - - Telephone 42 - - Happy Jack Windmill 44 - - Gloucester "Happy Jack" Windmill 46 - - Paddling Indian Windmill 48 - - Kite 50 - - Tailless Kite 53 - - Box Kite 54 - - Kite-String Sailboat 56 - - The Hygroscope or Weather Cottage 59 - - Electrophorus 62 - - Waterwheel 64 - - Water Motor 67 - - Sand Wheel 70 - - Running Wheel 73 - - Rattle 76 - - Cart 78 - - Cannon 81 - - Automobile 84 - - Bow Pistol 86 - - Elastic Gun 88 - - Rattle-Bang Gun 92 - - Boat 95 - - Pile-Driver 98 - - Windmill 100 - - Kite-String Reel 103 - - String Machine 106 - - Windmill Force-Pump 108 - - - - - INTRODUCTION. - - -The wise man learns from the experience of others. That is the reason -for this introduction--to tell the boy who wants to make the toys -described in this book some of the "tricks of the trade." It is -supposed, however, that he has had some instruction in the use of tools. - -This book is written after long experience in teaching boys, and because -of that experience, the author desires to urge upon his younger readers -two bits of advice: First, study the drawing carefully,--every line has -a meaning; second, printed directions become clearer by actually taking -the tool in hand and beginning to do the work described. - - - BENCH. - -If he buys the vise-screw, an ambitious boy can make a bench that will -answer his needs, provided, also, that he can fasten it to floor or -wall. It should be rigid. A beginner will find a hard wood board, -10"x2"x1/4", fastened to the forward end of the bench, a more convenient -stop than the ordinary bench-dog. If he has a nicely finished bench, he -should learn to work without injuring the bench. A _cutting board_ -should always be at hand to chisel and pound upon and to save the -bench-top from all ill use. The _bench-hook_ should have one side for -sawing and one for planing, the former having a block shorter than the -width of the board so that the teeth of the saw, when they come thru the -work, will strike the bench-hook rather than the bench-top. - - - MARKING TOOLS. - -To measure accurately, hold the _ruler_ on its edge so that the -divisions on the scale come close to the thing measured. Let the pencil -or knife point make a dash on the thing measured which would exactly -continue the division line on the ruler. If it can be avoided, never use -the end of the ruler; learn to measure from some figure on the ruler. - -The spur of the _gage_ should be filed like a knife point. It seldom -stands at zero of the scale, hence, when setting the gage for accurate -work, measure from the block to the spur with a ruler. The gage is a -rather difficult tool for a boy to use but it will pay to master it. It -may be used wherever square edges are to be made, but chamfers and -bevels should be marked with a pencil. - -In laying out work, the beam (the thick part) of the _trysquare_ should -always be kept on either the working-face or the working-edge. (See page -13, Directions for Planing.) Let the blade rest flat on any surface. -Hold the trysquare snugly to the work with the fingers and thumb acting -much like a bird's claw. - -For accurate work (e. g. joints), lines should be drawn (scored) with -the sharp point of a small _knife_ blade, held nearly straight up from -the edge of the trysquare blade. - -Circles are located by two lines crossing at the center. - - - SAWS. - -The teeth of a _rip-saw_ are like so many little chisels set in a row; -they pare the wood away. The teeth of a _crosscut-saw_ are like knife -points, they score two lines, and the wood breaks off between them. -Large sawing should be done on a saw-horse so that the worker is over -his work. If it is necessary to hold work in the vise to rip it, hold it -slanting, so that the handle of the saw leads the line, as it naturally -does when the work is on a saw-horse. - -The _back-saw_, tho a crosscut-saw, may be used in any direction of the -grain. - -Any saw should be in motion when it touches the wood it is to cut. To -guide it to the right place, a workman lets his thumb touch the saw just -above the teeth, the hand resting firmly on the wood. A little notch, -cut in the edge right to the line where the saw is to cut, will help a -beginner to start accurately. Saws are rapid tools, and it pays to go -slowly enough with them to do accurate work. Plan the work so as to make -as few cuts as possible. - -_Turning-saws_ are best used so that the cutting is done on the pull -stroke, keeping the two hands near together. When one handle is turned, -the other must be turned equally. - - - PLANES. - -Generally being in a hurry to get work done, boys are apt to take big -shavings with a plane. This results in rough work. Fine shavings are -better. If the plane is allowed to rest level on the work, it will find -the high places without continual adjusting. The first two inches of a -stroke are the hardest to plane; to plane these, press harder on the -forward end of the plane. Start the plane level. Usually it is best to -keep the plane straight, or nearly so, in the direction of the push. - -The _block-plane_ is properly used to plane the end of wood. (See page -12 on Holding Work.) On other small surfaces, however, it is often more -convenient than a large plane. - - - BITS. - -_Auger-bits_ are numbered by the number of sixteenths in the diameter of -the hole they bore, e. g. No. 4 bores a 4/16" hole. _Gimlet-bits_ are -numbered by thirty-seconds. - -Whenever boring with an auger-bit, stop as soon as the spur pricks thru -the other side, turn the work over, start the spur in the little hole it -made, and finish boring. It will always split the wood, if the bit is -allowed to go way thru. It is difficult to bore a hole straight thru a -piece of wood, because to tell whether the bit is held straight when -starting the hole, one must look at it from two directions. If someone -else can stand a quarter circle away from the worker and watch the bit, -that is the best help; otherwise, the worker himself must hold the brace -steady while he walks around a quarter circle and judges whether the bit -is straight. Care should be taken to hold the work level in the vise. - - - NAILS. - -The words, "nail," "brad," and "nailing" are used somewhat -interchangeably in this book; "nailing" may mean driving a brad. Brads -have smaller, thicker heads, nails have larger, flat heads. - -To drive a nail straight, start it straight. The hole cannot be -straightened by bending the nail so that it looks straight after it is -partly driven. Many gentle blows with the _hammer_ will often drive a -nail where heavy blows would fail. The fingers pinching the nail often -prevent its bending. If possible, keep nails away from the corners of -boards. Several nails joining two boards hold them stronger if the nails -are driven at different angles. Nails are usually "set," that is, the -heads are driven with a _nail-set_ below the surface. They must always -be set below surfaces which are to be planed. It is often wise not to -drive the first nail or two way in until the work is examined. In -withdrawing nails, a block under the hammer will often aid greatly, and -also protect the surface of the work. - - - SCREWS. - -Screws usually need holes properly bored to receive them; a large hole -first, the size of the screw above the threads, a small hole next, the -size at the roots of the threads (in hard wood somewhat larger), and a -place for the head made with a _countersink_. Usually the screw should -slip easily thru the first piece of wood and be tight in the second. The -_screwdriver_ should always be held in the line that the screw is going, -and it ought fairly to fit the slot in the head. In hard wood, one must -be careful not to twist screws off, especially brass screws, which are -easily broken. - - - GLUE. - -A beginner often wonders why things stick to his fingers instead of to -their proper places; it is because he has a little glue on his fingers -and usually a lot on the article; therefore, don't use too much glue. It -is best, especially in holes and their pegs, to put glue on both -surfaces of contact. Good glue will hold two surfaces, making good -contact, stronger than the wood. Wipe off excess glue as soon as -possible, using hot water for hot glue. Much labor is thus saved. Allow -glue plenty of time to become dry. The moisture has to work its way thru -the wood itself, and this takes hours; six to ten hours is not too long. - - - SANDPAPER. - -Sandpaper varies in coarseness from No. 00 to No. 3, every sheet being -stamped. It should not be used on a given piece until all work with edge -tools is finished. The particles of sand left in the surface would -quickly dull an edge tool. When using sandpaper on flat surfaces, wrap -it closely about a rectangular block of wood. Try to keep all corners as -sharp as they are left by the edge tools so that there will be a -crispness of appearance which always marks good workmanship. Often the -same care in holding work while sandpapering it must be taken as was -taken when shaping it. Always sandpaper with, or lengthwise the grain. - - - DOWELS. - -Sticks that are planed nearly to size can be made round and smooth by -driving them thru a hole in a block of hard wood or iron; such sticks -are called dowels. Two holes may be used if the second is only a little -smaller than the first. Drive gently with a _mallet_ rather than with a -hammer. In many of the models in this book such dowels are used. Dowels -(made by a different process, however,) can often be bought at hardware -stores. - - - DRILLS. - -For ease in making small holes, a _hand-drill_ is essential. For some -holes a headless nail will answer. To make better drills, break a -needle, a knitting-needle, umbrella rib, or other piece of hard wire to -suitable length; on a grindstone, flatten it near the point on two -sides; then, putting it in the chuck of the hand-drill, try to hold it -on the grindstone at the proper angle to form the two cutting edges; or -it may be held against the edge of the bench and sharpened with an -oilstone resting on top of the bench. Very convenient long drills can be -thus made of knitting-needles. - - - SHARPENING. - -To work with dull tools is altogether unsatisfactory. A boy should learn -to sharpen his own edge tools. To grind a good bevel on a tool like a -chisel, it must rest upon something steady. The reflection of light on -the newly ground surface will indicate whether the surface is flat or -not. This process of grinding makes what is called a feather-edge, or -wire-edge, and the tool must be whetted on an oilstone to remove this -wire-edge. The flat side _must be kept flat_ on the stone; the bevel may -be lifted just a trifle. When whetting the bevel, try to avoid a rocking -motion, for this would round the edge. After the wire-edge is completely -removed, a still keener edge can be obtained by stropping the tool on a -piece of leather, much as a razor is stropped. A piece of leather glued -to a wooden mount and sprinkled occasionally with the finest emery -powder will help much in keeping the edge tools keen. - - - HOLDING WORK. - -The way work is held in the vise often makes the difference between -success and failure. Small surfaces are easily planed true if held -almost flush with the jaws of the vise so that the top of the bench -serves to guide the plane; for example, the wheel-center, page 20, or -the crank, Plate 33, are easily planed in this manner. Sometimes -articles, like spools, can be held endwise with safety when they might -be crushed if squeezed sidewise. - -A good way to hold the paddles of the sand wheel, Plate 21, Fig. 4, to -saw the lines A B is to put the paddles about half-way down the end of -the vise so that the back-saw can be held near the end of the vise jaws. - -The _bench-hook_ is the best device for holding a great deal of small -work for sawing and for planing sides, corners, and ends. When planing -ends, to avoid splitting the far corner, another piece of equal -thickness may be put behind the first. The better way, however, is never -to plane over the far corner, but turn the work and plane always towards -the center; in other words, plane half way from each edge. Where a -corner can be whittled off to form a buttress, there is practically no -danger of splitting that corner. For planing thin boards, see page 19. - - - DIRECTIONS FOR PLANING. - -1. Plane one broad surface. Test it _crosswise_, _lengthwise_, and -_cornerwise_. This surface is called the _working-face_, and should be -marked with a pencil line near the edge to be planed next. On a short -board the cornerwise test can be made with a straight-edge; on a long -board winding-sticks are needed. These are straight sticks with parallel -edges. Near the ends of the board, stand them on edge across the board. -With the eye some distance away, sight from one stick to the other, if -one end of the farther stick seems elevated, that corner of the board -must be planed more. - -2. Plane one edge. Test it _crosswise_ with the trysquare on the -working-face, and _lengthwise_ with a straight-edge. This is called the -_working-edge_. Mark it with two pencil lines, drawn near the line on -the working-face. - -These two surfaces are of great importance. From them all measurements -are made and all tests applied. The trysquare and the gage should always -be kept on one of these two surfaces. - -3. Square the ends. With the trysquare, test them from both the -working-face and the working-edge. - -4. Gage the width from the working-edge. Plane to the line. With the -trysquare on the working-face, test this edge. - -5. Gage the thickness from the working-face. Plane to the line. - -Sometimes, of course, the above order needs to be changed. It is well to -think out the best order of work. - - - - - PROBLEMS - - PLATES AND WORKING DIRECTIONS - - - DART--PLATE 1. - - -A dart like the first one shown on Plate 1 will stick into a soft wooden -target. Two or more boys, each with three darts, might have a contest in -making the highest score. Number three rings of a target 5, 10, and 15, -and the bull's eye 25. - -The dart consists of two parts, a round stick and a paper rudder. To -make the round stick, 7" long 1/4" diameter, it will be well to start -with a stick about 9" long so as to be able to hold it easily while -planing it round. First plane the stick _square_, 1/4", and straight. To -plane such a small stick straight, it should be laid on the top of the -bench. While planing it, test it frequently by looking at it endwise. -When it is the right size, grasp one end with the left hand, lay it on -the bench with the forefinger touching the bench, and, with a small -plane, plane away the corners so as to make a true octagonal (eight -sided) stick. Next make it sixteen sided, taking very fine shavings, -then sandpaper it well. Saw off the extra length, leaving the best part -of the stick 7" long. - -Bind one end with fine (screen) wire. To bind it well, make a square -corner 1" from one end of the wire and lay this 1" lengthwise the stick. -Hold it firmly with the left thumb while winding the long part of the -wire smoothly around the stick and wire. Twist the two ends together, -and cut off what is not needed. Gently pound down smooth the end of the -wire that is left. - -In this end of the stick, drill a hole for a 1" brad. File the head -entirely off, and drive the brad in backwards, leaving 3/16" out; then -file the point real sharp. Carefully split the other end of the stick -1". To do this, stand it upright in the vise, place a knife on the end, -and tap the knife with a hammer. Into this split, insert the paper -rudder bent as shown in Plate 1. The rudder should be cut the shape and -size shown in the working drawing and then bent into shape. - -[Illustration: DART - -SPOOL DART - -DART FOR WHIP-BOW - -PLATE 1] - - - - - SPOOL DART--PLATE 1. - - -An easier dart to throw can be made of a spool as shown on Plate 1. -Three feathers which curve the same way will give the dart a whirling -motion when it is thrown. - -Make a stick about 7" long to fit tightly into the hole of a spool about -1" in diameter at its end. (See Dowels, page 11, also Glue, page 10.) A -stick like this can be forced into a hole quite far by screwing it -around, but if it is driven much with a hammer the spool will split -easily. After the stick is glued into the spool, hold the spool upright -on the jaws of the vise, and squeeze the stick extending below; then -with the back-saw make four slanting cuts to sharpen the spool. File a -2-1/4" nail square off, 1" long; drive it backwards into a suitable hole -drilled for it in the center of the spool; and sharpen it well with a -file. One-half inch from the other end of the spool saw the stick off, -and drill three holes in the spool end, into which glue three feathers -about 4" long. - - - - - DART FOR WHIP-BOW--PLATE 1. - - -This dart is best made of a shingle. Lacking that, plane a 1/2" board -thin[1] at one end to 1/8". Draw the center line lengthwise and lay out -the shape of the dart with the broad part at the thin end. Saw crosswise -from each edge of the shingle to the place where the curve begins, then -lengthwise to that point. Holding the thin end in the vise, pare the -curves with a knife, spokeshave, or draw-knife. Make the point at each -end with a plane. To plane to slanting lines such as these, it is very -important to place the work in the vise at such a slant that the line is -parallel with the top of the bench and quite close to the jaws of the -vise. Find the point where the dart balances by testing it on the -finger, and make the little notch for the string, using a back-saw -first, then a knife. - -A whip-bow consists of a string 20" long tied to the end of a stick 20" -long. A knot is tied at the free end of the string. To throw the dart, -catch the string in the notch, hold the wide end of the dart in the left -hand and the stick in the right, throw the right hand forward, and let -the dart fly from the string. - -[Footnote 1: To hold a board while planing it very thin, fasten it to -another flat board with four wooden pegs. - -For several of the models in this book, a flat board about 9" x 4" x -7/8" with a cleat nailed to one end and extending 1/8" above its upper -surface will be found most convenient for holding thin boards while -planing. If the cleat is a little wider than the height of the block on -the bench-hook, the bench-hook serves well to hold it.] - - - - - BUZZER--PLATE 2. - - -The buzzer consists of a wheel and two handles, connected with string. -To make the wheel draw a 3" circle on a piece of wood 3/16" thick. Draw -a line thru the center the way the grain goes and another at right -angles to it, thus dividing the circle into quarters, Fig. 1. Notice, -now, that to avoid splitting the circle, the four quarters must each be -cut in a different direction. Lay the model flat on the bench-hook and -saw off the corners of the square. Now, holding it in the vise with one -quarter up, with the spokeshave, pare the corners in the direction of -the arrow in this quarter until the circle is reached. Be careful not to -pare away any part of the line. It will be observed that paring can be -done safely on the end grain beyond the arrow-head in this quarter, but -this is not at all possible on the side grain where the arrow begins. -The spokeshave should be held rather lightly so as to allow it to follow -the curve. Observing carefully the direction of the arrows, proceed with -the other quarters in this same manner. The last few chips should be -very fine ones. Drill two small holes for the string 1/4" each side of -the center. Sandpaper the model nicely. (See Sandpaper, page 11.) - -[Illustration: Fig. 1] - -The two handles can be planed best if held in the bench-hook and the -plane turned with its side on the top of the bench. After the corners -are planed in this way, the ends can be planed without danger of -splitting. Drill the holes for the string. The edges and ends of the -handles will look better not sandpapered. - -String the model by passing one end of a 3 ft. string thru a hole in one -handle, then in the wheel, then in the other handle, then back thru the -other holes, tying it to the other end of the string. To make it go, -take one handle in each hand, swing the wheel over and over, and gently -pull the handles apart for an instant. A little practice may be -necessary to make it go well. To make it buzz louder, bore two 5/16" -holes on opposite parts of the wheel 1/2" from the rim. (See Bits, page -9.) To avoid splitting, bore _backwards_ till the bit marks a deep -circle in the wood. - -[Illustration: BUZZER - -PLATE 2] - - - - - FLYING TOP--PLATE 3. - - -Like anything that flies, this top should be made as light as possible. -Bass, cotton-wood, or soft pine are good woods to use. After the wood -for the top is planed to size, a 3/16" hole should be bored straight -thru the center. (See Bits, page 9.) Make the drawing on the top and -whittle to line. Considerable care must be taken in whittling not to -whittle away the two corners which should be saved; this is especially -true if the grain is not straight. See page 16 for suggestions about -making the handle. Glue the handle in the top. To make it fly, hold it -between the two hands, and push the right one quickly. (See Plate 3.) - -[Illustration: FLYING TOP - -PLATE 3] - - - - - FLYING TOP--PLATE 4. - - -This form of flying top requires accurate work to make a good joint. -(See Directions for Planing, page 13.) After planing the two vanes to -size, the joint must be laid out with knife and gage lines and cut out -with back-saw and chisel. Two important facts should be learned: The -_length_ of one notch equals the _width_ of the other piece; the lines -marking the depth of the notches must be gaged from the working-face of -each piece. After the joint is laid out, hold the work in the bench-hook -while sawing the depth of the notch, and be sure to saw _in the notch_, -not outside the line. With a chisel held flat side down, pare between -the saw cuts from each side of the wood towards the middle. When the -joint is fitted, lay out the curves on each arm of the wheel, -remembering that it is always the front corner of the right-hand arm, as -the wheel turns around, that is to be whittled away. When all these -curves are drawn, take the joint apart, and whittle to the lines. Glue -the joint next, and bore a 3/16" hole straight thru its center. Make the -axle of hard wood. (See page 16 and Dowels, page 11.) Perhaps a skewer -can be used. - -After the handle is planed to size, draw pencil lines 1/4" from each -edge for the chamfers. The curve of the chamfer may be drawn freehand. -It should end 1-1/16" from one end of the handle. A good chamfer is flat -crosswise. If the grain of the wood is straight, the chamfers can be -whittled easily; if it is crooked watch that it does not split over the -line. After the chamfers are made, pare another one 1/8" wide around the -end of the handle. After the two blocks are planed, bore a 1/4" hole -3/8" from one end. Glue and nail them 1" on the handle. - -[Illustration: FLYING TOP - -PLATE 4] - - - - - TOP--PLATE 5. - - -A variety of sizes, shapes and colors of tops, spinning on a plate, is a -lively sight. The one suggested is perhaps as large as it should be made -for such sport. Smaller ones are easily made of spools without making a -disk, or wheel, for them. The more slender the spindle is, the faster -one can spin the top. First make a stick about 6" long to fit the hole -in the spool. Plane 1" of it tapering as small as 1/8", then glue the -spool on 1-1/4" below this small end. Now hold the spool in the vise -endwise, and make, with the back-saw, a saw cut half thru the spool on -the same slant as the slanting part of the spool; then saw straight down -to the end of this slanting cut. Turn the spool nearly over and repeat -this operation; then saw it completely off, and whittle the spool to a -good point. - -Draw a 2" circle on a piece of wood 1/4" thick. Draw other circles just -as desired for coloring. Observe the directions on page 20 for making a -wheel. When the wheel is round, bore a 5/16" hole in its center, -sandpaper it, and glue it in place on the spool and spindle. It can be -colored with crayons or water colors. - -[Illustration: TOP - -PLATE 5] - - - - - TOM-TOM DRUM--PLATE 6. - - -As in a violin, the sounding qualities of this drum depend upon the -quality of the wood used and the thickness of the sounding-board. Spruce -is a good wood to use, though the drumstick may well be harder. - -A good way to make two pieces the same length and thickness is to plane -_one_ piece, which is wider than the two pieces combined, to the right -length and thickness, and then saw it in two lengthwise; so, to make the -top and between pieces it will be best to start with one piece about 6" -x 7/8" x 5/16". If no wood 1/8" thick for the sounding-boards is at -hand, plane a thicker piece nicely on all surfaces 3" x 2" x 5/16". Then -gage a line 1/8" from each broad surface all around the piece and saw -between these lines. To plane these two pieces, lay them on the board -described in the foot-note on page 19. - -Glue and nail the parts together with very small brads, or pins cut off -1/2". Allow the glue to dry six to ten hours before twisting the -drumstick in the strings. Cut a small notch near the ends of the top -pieces in which to wind two or three strands of string. Twist the -drumstick in the opposite way from which it should strike the -sounding-board. To play it, hold it in the left hand, and let the -fingers of the right hand slide over the end of the drumstick, thus -making the drumstick strike the sounding-board. - -[Illustration: TOM-TOM DRUM - -PLATE 6] - - - - - POP-GUN--PLATE 7. - - -The part of this model difficult to make is a nice, smooth hole. The -surest way is to start with a thick piece of wood for the barrel, 6" x -1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Draw a 7/8" circle on one end; then bore the 7/16" hole -as straight as possible, starting at the center of the circle. Stop -boring as soon as the spur of the bit pricks thru the other end, and -draw another 7/8" circle, setting the needle-point of the compass in the -tiny hole made by the spur; then finish boring. Next plane the piece -round the size of the circles. The ramrod should be made as directed on -page 16. The hole should now be sandpapered by wrapping a long, narrow -piece of sandpaper snugly about the ramrod, and tying it securely at -each end with string. Make the handle, being careful to bore the hole -straight 1" deep, and glue the ramrod into it. - -Cut off 3/8" of that part of a cork which fits tightly in the barrel. -Drive a slender nail or brad thru a piece of hard leather (or zinc or -copper) and trim it round 1/4" diameter. Drill a small hole exactly in -the center of the end of the ramrod, then drive the nail thru the center -of the cork and into the ramrod. - -To make the hole in the barrel still better, let a few drippings from a -candle fall into it and quickly insert the ramrod and push it back and -forth rapidly. A sudden push of the ramrod will blow the other cork out -with a loud pop. To keep this cork, tie one end of a string around it -and the other end around the barrel. - -[Illustration: POP GUN - -WHISTLE - -PLATE 7] - - - - - WHISTLE--PLATE 7. - - -The size of the chamber, of the notch, of the inlet for air, the force -with which air is blown in,--these are some of the conditions which -affect the tone of a whistle. - -Plane a piece of close-grained wood 6" x 3/4" x 3/4". This length is -suggested so that two trials at boring can be made. Bore a 1/2" hole -2-1/4" deep. To help in boring this straight, clamp a straight-edge (the -ruler may do) in the vise together with the square stick. Have one edge -of the straight-edge on the center of one side of the stick. After -boring a straight hole, draw pencil lines 3/16" from the long edges on -all four sides. A good way to draw such lines is to rest the middle -finger-nail on a side of the stick as a guide and hold the pencil -closely over this nail while sliding it along. The hand must be held -rather rigid. Practice will enable one to draw lines quite accurately -this way. Place the stick in the vise so that one edge is straight up, -and plane the corner off to the line. Plane all four corners so as to -make a good octagonal stick. Make a dowel (see page 11) about 1-1/2" -long to fit nicely in the hole. Do not crowd it so hard as to split the -whistle. It might well be fitted first in a 1/2" hole bored in a waste -piece of wood. Plane off a side of this dowel till a flat place is made -3/8" wide. Push the dowel into the whistle and saw the straight end of -the notch about 3/16" deep. Pare the rest of the notch with knife or -chisel, testing the whistle by blowing it occasionally as the paring -proceeds. When it sounds best, glue the dowel in place and allow it to -dry before sawing it off and cutting the slanting part. When this is -done saw the whistle to a length of 2-1/2". If a rolling sound is -desired, put in a pea before gluing the dowel in place. - - - - - ARROW--PLATE 8. - - -The old saying, "Straight as an arrow," suggests an arrow's most -important quality: it must be straight. Saw a strip 20" x 1/2" from the -edge of a straight-grained spruce board and plane it according to -directions on page 16. To make the notch for the bowstring, first file -a notch in the smaller end, then saw it 1/4" deep, and smooth it with -the folded edge of a piece of sandpaper. Bind the larger end tightly -with rather small, soft wire. (See page 16.) Pigeon feathers are easiest -to use because the quills are soft and straight. Turkey and goose -feathers are good, and hen feathers will do if they are nearly straight. -The quill should be split with the point of a small, sharp knife, the -feather being held on a cutting board. About 3" of quill are needed. -With scissors, trim the feather about 5/16" wide; then glue and pin it -in place 1-1/4" from the smaller end of the arrow. Indians use three -feathers, but two will do for a boy. When the feathers are in place, the -ends of the quills must be bound very smoothly and tightly with thread. -Notice the position of the feathers in Plate 8: the _bottom_ feather on -the arrow having three feathers is called the cock-feather and should be -of a different color from the other two. It is always placed on the -bowstring _away_ from the bow. - - - - - BOW--PLATE 8. - - -Almost any tough stick that will bend to a good curve will answer for a -bow, but white ash such as is used in hoe- and rake-handles is probably -best and easiest to get. A brittle wood like hemlock can be used, if -used with great care; indeed, some Eskimos, who can get only dry, -brittle driftwood, still make a splendid bow by wrapping it completely -with sinew. The bow should be shorter than the archer. Plane each end -tapering, first on the bottom, then on the two edges. Leave 6" in the -middle straight for a handle. Notice the shape, Plate 8, of the three -steps in the planing of the bow. Be especially careful to get the second -step right, then the third will come easily. File notches near each end -somewhat the shape of the loop on the bowstring. Before the bow can be -finished, it must be strung and pulled a little to test it,--to see if -both ends bend the same good curve,--not the curve of a circle, but that -of the broad side of an ellipse. The ends should curve more than the -middle. When it bends true, smooth it well with a coarse file, or glass, -and sandpaper. Do not be tempted to pull the bow too far and so break -it; one that bends easily is less apt to break than one that is too -strong. When the bow is strung, the center of it and of the bowstring -should be marked with thread or color. - -A piece of strong fish-line makes a good bowstring. A good one can be -made of linen thread on the string machine shown on Plate 34. Tie knots -as shown in Fig. 2. The timber-hitch should be kept in place on the bow, -and the bowline-knot slipped back on the bow when it is unstrung. The -best way to string a bow is to place the end having the timber-hitch on -the ground against one's left foot, then to pull the middle of the bow -with the left hand, and to push the upper part with the right hand, -allowing this hand to slide upward so as to shove the bowline-knot into -the upper notch. When finished the bow can be improved by rubbing it -well with grease. - -[Illustration: Fig. 2 Timber-hitch knot and Bowline-knot] - -[Illustration: ARROW - -BOW - -PLATE 8] - - - - - SWORD--PLATE 9. - - -Plane the blade to size, then draw a center line on each side, and lay -out the curves for the point and handle. Shape these ends with the -draw-knife, spokeshave, or block-plane. Now measure 5" for the handle, -and draw a line along the center of each edge to mark the cutting edges -of the sword. A workman would do this with his pencil resting over his -finger-nail as mentioned on page 32. Use the spokeshave to pare off the -four corners (to sharpen the sword), and finish them with a plane. Try -to take broad, flat chips so as to make the blade a good diamond shape. -Where the blade and handle meet a good square shoulder must be made. A -boy can do this best, perhaps, with a wide, flat file, though a workman -would use a back-saw and chisel. - -Saw out the guard 5" x 3" x 1/2"; then draw the diamond 1-1/2" long and -1/2" wide. It is not easy for a boy to cut this out, so be careful and -guard against splitting the board. First drill small holes at each end -of the diamond, then bore other holes as large as will go within the -diamond, Plate 9. With a thin chisel pare straight thru the board onto a -cutting board. When the diamond will fit the blade, draw the shape of -the guard freehand and pare the edges as explained for the buzzer on -page 20. Sandpaper both parts of the sword, and fasten the guard with -glue and two 2" brads, driven from each edge of the guard in holes -drilled for the purpose. - -[Illustration: SWORD - -PLATE 9] - - - - - MAGIC BOX--PLATE 10. - - -This is truly a magic box to those who do not understand how it works. -Who would ever think that these little bits of people would hop up and -down inside their house just because their window was rubbed with a -piece of leather? Try it and see how excited they get. - -If the worker can cut glass, make the box first, otherwise he must get a -piece of glass 5-1/2" x 3" and build the box to fit it. It requires -careful work to make a good box, so be sure that all ends and edges are -square and that corresponding parts are the same size before nailing it -together. Plane all such small boards in the bench-hook. Make the ends -first 1" wide and as _long_ as the glass is _wide_. Make the sides the -same width and as long as the glass, _plus_ the thickness of the two -ends. Glue and nail these to the ends, keeping the bottom edges flush. -Set all nails with a nail-set. - -One edge and one end only of the bottom should now be planed square, the -other edge and end being left to plane after the bottom is nailed in -place. Cut a piece of tin 1/16" smaller than the glass, or glue some -tinfoil on the inside of the bottom. If tinfoil is to be used, smooth it -on a piece of paper carefully with the fingers; then spread some glue -thinly over the bottom, and lay the tinfoil on it. The squared edge and -end of the bottom are to be nailed first, having them fit nicely; then -the other edge and end. Never drive a nail too near the corner of the -bottom lest it strike the nails driven thru the sides of the box. Now -plane the end and then the side of the bottom to fit. If tin is used -instead of tinfoil put it inside the box after the bottom has been -nailed in place. Make the two supports fit inside the box lengthwise and -just wide enough to hold the top of the glass flush with the top edges -of the box. To hold the supports, drive nails thru the ends of the box -into them. - -[Illustration: MAGIC BOX - -PENCIL BOX - -PLATE 10] - -Everything about electrical apparatus should be clean and dry, so, as -this is really an electric box, have the glass and tin clean before -using it. Put some bits of charcoal, paper, straw, or sawdust into the -box, have it warm and dry, rub the glass with a piece of leather (glove, -shoe), and then see how the little people jump! The explanation is as -follows: Rubbing glass with leather, fur, woolen, or silk _generates_ -electricity; this electricity _attracts_ non-electrified bodies, thus -lifting the little people to the glass; as soon as they become _charged_ -with the electricity on the glass, they are _repelled_ and thrown down -to the tin; the tin _conducts_ their charge of electricity away, and -they are ready to begin their circus over again. - - - - - PENCIL-BOX--PLATE 10. - - -To make this box, saw out one long piece for the sides and ends, 22" x -1-7/8" x 1/4", or two shorter pieces, 12" x 1-7/8" x 1/4". The reason -for having them so long is because it is difficult to make the groove -nicely to the end of the board; and they are wide enough to try twice to -make the groove. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3] - -File a nail (about 3/32" in diameter) sharp like a chisel, and drive it -tightly into a small hole, drilled in a block of wood which has one -corner rabbeted, that is, sawed away as shown in Fig. 3. The outside of -the nail, measured from the shoulder of the rabbet, must be exactly 1/4" -away, so that the lower edge of the groove will be 1/4" from the top of -the box. Practice with this tool till a good groove can be made in waste -lumber, then make the groove along one edge of the board. When well -done, plane the board 1-3/8" wide, and saw it to the proper lengths for -sides and ends. In the front end there is no groove, so plane it away -from one piece just sawed. Sandpaper the flat sides before gluing and -nailing them together. Prepare the bottom as directed for the magic box, -page 38, then sandpaper, glue and nail it in place. Set all nails. Plane -the bottom to fit. Prepare the cover somewhat too long but exactly the -width between the grooves. As in making the whistle, page 32, so here -draw pencil lines for the bevel 3/8" wide on the cover. Practice planing -a bevel on waste wood first. The bevel at the further end of the cover -can be planed by holding the cover upright in the vise. When it slides -smoothly in the grooves, saw it the right length. For the notch, make a -deep cut with a gouge, and cut the chip straight across with knife point -or small chisel. Hold it in the bench-hook while doing this. - - - - - TELEPHONE--PLATE 11. - - -In these days when even boys are using wireless telegraphy, this may -seem a humble telephone, but it is a surprisingly good one, and it is -very easily made and operated. The drum should be hard and tight, the -string should be a small, hard cord (tho the common pink cord thoroly -waxed with paraffin will do), and the cord should be supported by -nothing but the drums when the telephone is being used. - -After preparing the eight sides, observe in Plate 11, the method of -nailing four boards of equal width together to form a square,--each one -is nailed to another one. The ends of the boxes should be well rounded -with sandpaper before the drum is stretched over them. - -The best material for the drum is rawhide,--the dried skin of an animal. -The skin of a small animal like the cat, rabbit, or woodchuck is best. -Country boys will not have much difficulty in securing such rawhide, but -city boys may. To remove the hair, or fur, from a skin, slack a lump of -lime as large as a hen's egg in a basin of water and soak the skin in it -until the hair can be pulled off readily (usually a few minutes); then -thoroly wash the skin, stretch it over one end of a box, and tack it -every 3/8" with 2 oz. tacks. When thoroly dry it will be "tight as a -drum" and ready to use. A good drum can also be made of an old (dressed) -kid glove or shoe. Soak a piece 4" sq. in water a few minutes then -stretch it while still wet, tightly over the box. When dry, coat it on -both sides with melted paraffin. Fasten the cord to the drum simply by a -knot on the inside. If common pink cord is used, drive the paraffin in -with a hot flat-iron. - -To use the telephone, a boy at each end of the line holds his box so -that the string will not touch anything, then one talks into his box -while the other listens in his. The telephone may be stretched from one -house to another if the houses are within several hundred feet of each -other and have a free space between. If two telephones were provided, a -person could talk and listen at the same time. - -[Illustration: TELEPHONE - -PLATE 11] - - - - - HAPPY JACK WINDMILL--PLATE 12. - - -On a windy day "Happy Jack" will be a whole circus out on the -clothes-line post. If he can be painted in bright colors so much the -better, otherwise he should be decorated with colored pencils. - -The body is drawn on a board, 9" x 2" x 1/2", by measuring all the -figures from the hat down, and at these points drawing lines square -across the board; also, draw a center-line from head to heel. The toes -and hat rim split easily, so be careful of these parts. If no scroll-saw -is at hand, saw every 3/8" with the back-saw straight across from the -edge of the board to the outline of the body; then pare these little -pieces away with a knife or chisel. The curves at the neck are best made -with a No. 6 bit before sawing. The curves may be finished with -half-round file or sandpaper. Take great care in boring the hole up the -legs and across the shoulders; if a hole is started crooked, glue in a -dowel of the same wood (see Dowels, page 11), let it dry, and then try -again. Use a straight-edge as a guide, as for the whistle, page 32. A -No. 3 bit is used thru the shoulders, and a No. 4 bit up the legs. To -make the arms, use a 1/2" hard wood dowel 6" long. Bore 1/4" holes for -the vanes 1/2" each side the center of the dowel and file the wrists, -before sawing it in two. Round the ends some with sandpaper. Flatten the -4" wire which goes thru the shoulders enough to keep it from turning in -the arms. Drill holes in the arms to hold the wire firmly. To plane the -vanes thin at the broad end, use the board mentioned at the bottom of -page 19. When gluing and nailing the vanes in the arms, remember that -one lies flat and the other nearly edgewise; also remember to make them -balance. Bore a 3/16" hole in the center of the base and glue the dowel -into it. Before trying to fasten "Happy Jack" to a post, drill holes in -the base for nails or screws. - -[Illustration: HAPPY JACK WINDMILL - -PLATE 12] - - - - - GLOUCESTER "HAPPY JACK" WINDMILL--PLATE 13. - - -This "Happy Jack" is the kind which is common along the coast of New -England. He is often painted with blue and white uniform and black -shoes, while the paddles are left unpainted. - -The drawing is made on squares so that it may be enlarged easily to any -size. Keep the same _number_ of squares but make them any size desired; -3/4" is a good size. The hat, being made separate from the body, should -not be drawn on the same board. - -To make the hat without a lathe, make two wheels of soft wood, round one -edge of the larger, and glue and nail the smaller one on it. Saw the -head slanting to make a flat place for the hat, as shown in side view of -hat, Plate 13. The space between the legs should be cut out with a -turning or key-hole saw, tho it can be worked out as the diamond in the -sword guard, Plate 9. The "Happy Jack" should be mounted on a large wire -rod. - -[Illustration: GLOUCESTER HAPPY JACK WINDMILL - -PLATE 13] - - - - - PADDLING INDIAN WINDMILL--PLATE 14. - - -Make this windmill any dimension desired, using the same number of -squares in drawing to keep the proportions. The stern of the canoe -should be planed thin enough so that the completed windmill will nearly -or quite balance on the upright wire rod. The arms should be made like -those on the "Happy Jack," and as long as from the center of the -shoulder to the topmost feather. If the canoe is not too wide, the -Indian can be nailed in place by two nails as shown in Plate 14, -otherwise drive smaller ones slanting thru the back into the canoe; -drill holes in either case. After the hole is bored thru the shoulders, -use a trysquare to tell where to start the hole up thru the canoe so -that it shall come in front of the former. - -[Illustration: PADDLING INDIAN WINDMILL - -PLATE 14] - - - - - KITE--PLATE 15. - - -Kite flying is such fascinating sport that the three typical kites here -given will make one want to build others, larger and of different -shapes.[2] Kites have been made large enough to carry a man high in the -air. The adjustments of a kite are so subtle that much patience is -sometimes needed to make it fly. That is why the rather elaborate bridle -is suggested for the paper covered kite with tail. It will require a -little longer stay in the workshop, but it will save time outdoors. - -[Footnote 2: Many suggestions are found in "The Construction and Flying -of Kites" by Charles M. Miller, price 20 cents, Manual Arts Press, -Peoria, Ill.] - -To make the spine and crosspiece, saw a 1/4" strip from the edge of a -7/8" straight-grained spruce board 3 ft. long; then saw this strip again -lengthwise, and plane the two pieces 3 ft. x 3/8" x 1/4". Mark the -center of the crosspiece and a point 8" from the top of the spine, and -plane each end tapering thinner to 3/16". In each end saw a slot 3/16" -deep, Plate 15. Glue and bind securely the middle of the crosspiece to -the 8" point on the spine. Notice that the last few strands go _around_ -the others. Test the sticks to see that they are square with each other. -This can be done by measuring from one end of the spine to each end of -the crosspiece. Put a cord that will not stretch around the ends of the -sticks, in the slots, and tie it tightly. Bind this cord into each slot -in such a manner that it will not slip, and at the same time wind the -sticks so that they will not split beyond the slot. While doing this, -one must measure again from each end of the spine to the ends of the -crosspiece so that the two halves of the kite will be equal. - -Cover the kite with strong, light paper. Glue the paper to the sticks, -and fold it over the string 1/2". Try to have the string lay in the -crease of the fold. Strengthen the corners with another piece of paper, -2" wide. - -[Illustration: KITE - -TAILLESS KITE - -BOX KITE - -PLATE 15] - -To make an adjustable bridle, wind a cord twice around the spine near -its top and tie it tightly on the front side, keeping the knot in the -middle. Little holes will, of course, have to be made in the paper. Cut -the cord about 2" long and tie bowline-knot, Fig. 2, p. 34. Measure on -the crosspiece 10" from the center, and down the spine 12" from the -crosspiece, and tie three more such knots. Double two cords, about 40" -long, and tie them in one big knot, called the flying-knot, to make a -loop about 1" long to which to fasten the anchor line. Mark a point on -the spine 10" below the crosspiece. Hold the flying-knot here, and -fasten two cords to the loops on the crosspiece with two or three -half-hitches, Plate 15. Now bring the flying-knot 2" above the -crosspiece and out from the kite far enough to make these two cords -taut. Fasten another cord to the loop at the upper part of the spine. -Adjust the remaining cord as taut as the others. - -A flat kite like this always needs a tail, and the most bothersome tail -ever made is that familiar kind made of paper and string. To make a -convenient, serviceable, and easily-made tail use strips, 3" wide, of -bunting, cheese-cloth, or any soft, light cloth. - -In a high wind a longer tail is needed than in a light wind. If the kite -seems too unsteady, pull it down, and try to adjust the bridle or the -tail, before an accident occurs. If the kite dives, let go the string -just before the kite reaches the ground so that it will not strike the -ground with force enough to smash the kite. When letting out string -rapidly, always protect the hand with a cloth or glove lest the string -cut thru the skin. If in doubt about the strength of the anchor-line, -two boys can very quickly test it 100 ft. or so at a time as it is being -let out; one does not want the string to break when the kite is high in -the air. - - - - - TAILLESS KITE--PLATE 15. - - -If one has to fly a kite amid many obstructions of trees, wires, and -houses, one will appreciate the advantage of a tailless kite. Such a -kite has to be more accurately made, however, and should be covered with -cloth. - -When making the bow, file notches near the slot at each end in the same -manner as for the bow, Plate 8, in which the twisting string will be -fastened later. Lash the middle of the bow to a point 7" from the top of -the spine. In the slots, put the cord which goes around the kite, -measuring carefully to keep the two sides the same size. Sew a piece of -colored cambric over the kite. Tie the middle of a strong cord 6-1/2 -feet long to the filed notch at one end of the bow with three -half-hitches, as shown in Plate 15. Pass one part of this cord around -the other notch, and fasten it in the same manner; then tie the two ends -together with a square knot. Make the dowel for twisting the two cords -on the back of the bow so as to bend the bow as desired. Into one end of -the dowel drive a small brad and file it sharp. How much to bend the bow -can be determined only by trying the kite. As the bow bends, the cloth -becomes looser, and it is this looseness of the cloth which so holds the -wind that the kite will fly without a tail. After twisting the cords -enough, slip them towards the end of the dowel away from the spur, and -rest the spur in the back of the spine. - -Tie a string around both the top and the bottom ends of the spine for -the bridle. The flying-knot should come as far as the end of the bow; -or, some tie the lower end of the bridle about 14" from the lower end of -the spine, and make the flying-knot about 9" in front and 2" above the -bow. - - - - - BOX KITE--PLATE 15. - - -In a gale too strong for other kites, a box kite will fly safely. The -bridle is very easy to adjust, and the kite, tho somewhat more elaborate -than the others, is not difficult to make. Thin sticks like these can be -sawed from the edge of a straight-grained board. An easy way to make the -notches in the ends of the braces is to clamp them all in the vise at -once, flat surfaces together, and then saw them out with a back-saw. -This method presupposes that the uprights are all planed the same -thickness. If they are unequal in thickness, saw the notches as wide as -the thinnest upright and pare the others each to fit its proper upright. -In any construction like this, which has a number of parts fitting -together, it is well to number the adjacent parts so that they may be -put together again, each in its place. Little nicks are cut with a knife -on the four edges of the braces where the lashing is to be wound. When -all the sticks are fitted together, glue the braces to the uprights -4-3/8" from the ends; two frames are thus made just alike. The lashing -is done with large thread. Start it with two turns around the brace, -then once around the upright, then once around the brace, then again -around the upright, and so continue. The last few turns should be around -the brace. See that the thread goes from the brace to the upright in the -way most favorable for holding. When all the lashing is done, measure -the center of each brace. Put one frame thru the other, and drive a pin -thru the two centers. Now the frames must be brought to a 14-1/2" square -by means of strong thread. Near the top of one upright tie a 6 ft. -thread, leaving a short end. Simply wind the long end twice around each -upright, and tie the end with a bow-knot until all sides of the square -can be measured and adjusted. When all sides are equal, make the -bow-knot into a square knot. Wind some thread around each upright, -except the first, in such a manner as to hold the long thread securely. -Now adjust the other end of the kite in the same way. Measure 8-3/4" -from the ends of each upright and put other threads around the square. -These can be fastened at each upright after the first by three -half-hitches. - -The kite may be covered either with cloth or paper. If cloth is used, -the edges should be hemmed. If paper, lay it on the floor, put glue on -each upright, then press the paper to one upright. Wrap the paper around -the kite and wind string around it several times to hold it while -adjusting and pressing each corner. Glue the ends of the paper next, -pulling them as tight as possible. Two flat-irons will hold the ends -while drying. After the paper is on, its edges should be strengthened -with a narrow ribbon of cloth glued to it. - -Tie the bridle strings just above and below the upper cell and have the -flying-knot 5" in front of the end of the brace. - - - - - KITE-STRING SAILBOAT--PLATE 16. - - -To send messages up to his kite, many a boy has made a hole in a piece -of paper and watched that go sailing up his anchor line. This sailboat -will do that, and other things too, and come spinning down again to take -another message. A parachute, made of a paper napkin, having a 12" -thread running to each corner and a nail for ballast tied where the four -threads are knotted together, can be sent up by this messenger, -released, and allowed to float down from a great height. Paper gliders -sent up this way will do many "stunts" before they reach ground. Fold a -flimsy paper napkin in such a way as to hold a bunch of confetti with a -pin thru only three or four thicknesses of the napkin. This can be tied -to the keel and the pin withdrawn by the release and fall of a nail, -and, behold, a shower of confetti! Be sure the falling nail will do no -injury where it strikes. - -A light, frail model like this will require considerable time and -patience to make and adjust so that it will work. Make the hull and -posts from a stick about 13" long. Bore the 3/16" holes for the mast and -keel, the former a little to the left (port, a sailor would say) of the -center and 2-1/2" from the bow, the latter in the center 2" from the -stern. Make the wheels of the ends of spools by sawing them off just -where the straight portion begins, and glueing them together on a hard -dowel. Very accurately find their centers and drill holes for 1" brads -which form their axles. Drive these into the post so that the wheels run -very freely. Do not nail the posts to the hull till the wire parts have -been put in place. Make three staples of pins and drive them in the -bottom of the hull so that a fine wire will just slide thru them easily. -Three are used so that the wire will always be held straight. Next make -the two eyes which hold the kite-string under the wheels. Coiled around -once and a half, the coils must be separated enough to allow the string -to slip between. The safety of the model, swinging violently high in the -air, depends upon these eyes. They can be driven thru small, tight holes -and bent on the under side to make them secure. They must be just high -enough to allow the string to run free. The forward one is elongated -because the kite-string slants upward so much. Bend the 4" wire trigger -three times around a brad driven in a piece of wood for convenience. To -handle wire readily for such work as this, two pliers will be found -useful. Saw a notch in the bow just wide enough for this coil. Now glue -and nail the posts in position. - -[Illustration: KITE-STRING SAILBOAT - -PLATE 16] - -Make the mast, all the spars, in fact, smaller at the outer end. Rig it -completely before gluing the mast in place. Be sure that the booms will -swing _over_ the forward wheel, so as not to interfere with its easy -running. The sails should be of light cloth. The booms and the gaffs -(see Plate 30 for names of parts) must swing freely on the mast, so as -to fold together when the trigger is released. For the main-sheets, use -thread tied with a long loop to slip over the fine wire part of the -trigger. A cork 1-1/4" in diameter, slit to the center, can be put on -the kite-string far enough from the kite to be safe from any entangling. -On the keel, fasten ballast enough (about 1 oz.) to make the sailboat -ride upright. - - - - - THE HYGROSCOPE OR WEATHER COTTAGE--PLATE 17. - - -This model serves to indicate the humidity (dampness) of the air. It -consists of the house, turntable, and figures, the turntable being -suspended on a violin string. The violin string absorbs moisture from -the air and untwists, thus causing the man to come out; when the air -become dry the string twists tighter, thus causing the woman to come -out. The model should be placed out doors but not exposed to rain or -sun. - -The arches of the doorways may be made with a big bit (1-3/8") or a -scroll saw. If a bit is used, bore a hole for the spur first, lest it -split the board. While boring hold the board vertically in the vise. The -portion cut off between the doorways can be sawed with the tip of the -back-saw if the board is laid flat on the bench-hook. The slanting lines -at the top, also, can be sawed while held down on the bench-hook. After -the front, back and sides are made, nail the back to the sides, but -screw the front. When this is done, put the house in the vise in an -upright position and plane the tops of the sides slanting. Notice that -one roof is wider than the other. Nail the narrower one first, with the -grain running from front to back. Do not drive nails into the front but -nail it securely at the back and side. Letting the plane rest on the -other side of the house, plane the upper edge of this roof slanting, so -that the other roof will fit. Nail this in place; set all nails; and -plane the upper edge of this roof slanting, letting the plane rest on -the first roof. Two brads may now be driven near the center of the -ridge-pole to hold the roofs together. After making the floor, place the -house in position on it (1/4" from back, 1/2" from ends) and draw a line -around the house. Remove the house; drive three brads straight down thru -the floor; pull them out and start them from the under side in the same -holes; then put the house in place again and drive the brads home. Put -in more brads to hold the house securely. - -To make the chimney, saw a notch 3/16" deep in the end of a 3/4" square -stick. If it fits on the roof, bore a 5/16" hole thru its center, and -saw the chimney off 3/4" long. Glue it 3/8" from the front end of the -roof. When dry, bore the hole thru the roof. The chimney top with the -dowel attached to it below is made to revolve so that the Hygroscope may -be adjusted. To make the chimney top, bore a 1/4" hole into the end of a -1/2" dowel; then saw it off 1/2" and glue in the upper dowel. Make the -turntable somewhat round at each end. In the center of it, glue and nail -the lower dowel. Next, paint the house if desired. The violin string is -glued and wedged into holes in the upper and lower dowels so that the -turntable will swing 3/16" above the floor. - -The man and woman may be made of cardboard, wood, clay, chalk or plaster -of Paris; or they can be bought at a toy store. Painted in bright colors -and shellacked, or varnished, they look well. They can be made to -balance on the turntable by adding a piece of lead. Of course, neither -they nor the turntable should touch any part of the house as they swing -around. - -[Illustration: HYGROSCOPE - -OR - -WEATHER COTTAGE - -PLATE 17] - - - - - ELECTROPHORUS--PLATE 18. - - -The electrophorus consists of two parts, a pan filled with a resinous -mixture, and a cover which has been completely covered with tinfoil. -Under favorable conditions, a spark of electricity 1/2" long can be -obtained from this electrophorus. The favorable conditions are these: -The air should be dry; both parts of the electrophorus should be warm, -dry, and clean; and the tinfoil and rosin should be perfectly flat, so -as to come in close contact with each other. - -Make the pan and its sides as shown in Plate 18. Glue and nail the sides -in place and round their upper edges well with sandpaper. To make the -resinous mixture, melt a half teacup of rosin with two teaspoons of -turpentine and about the same of paraffin in a rather deep dish, and -pour the mixture into the pan. As all these materials are inflammable, -perhaps the safest place to melt them is in the oven. After the pan is -cold, test the surface of the rosin to see that it is flat every way. If -it is not flat, sandpaper the high parts slowly with coarse sandpaper. - -When making the cover, observe the directions on page 20, then round the -edge to a good half-circle. Test the cover also to see that it is flat, -especially on its under side, for to get good sparks, the tinfoil and -rosin must come just as close together as possible. Cut two circles of -tinfoil 4-1/2" in diameter. Smooth them carefully on a piece of paper, -spread glue thinly on the cover, lay the tinfoil on the glue, and smooth -it with the fingers. Press the edges as smooth as possible because -electricity escapes easily from sharp corners. Cover the larger open -spaces with bits of tinfoil. Hard rubber (ebonite), being a -non-conductor of electricity, makes the best handle. A piece of an old -rubber comb or a fountain pen can be used for this purpose. - -To get a spark of electricity, rub the rosin with soft leather, fur, or -woolen; place the cover on it; touch the top of the cover with the -finger (to remove the negative electricity); lift the cover by the top -of the handle; bring the edge of the cover near a finger, or other -conductor, and a spark will fly off with a snap. It is a miniature flash -of lightning. Some books on electricity describe many other experiments -which can be tried. - -[Illustration: ELECTROPHORUS - -PLATE 18] - - - - - WATERWHEEL--PLATE 19. - - -This waterwheel is designed to be placed in a flowing stream. A longer -trough might well lead the water into this one so as to get greater -speed. - -Make the trough first, being careful to make a good fit where the sides -nail to the bottom. Nail the top 5" from the end where the wheel is -placed. The upper corners of the axle blocks are to be cut off 1". The -center of the 5/16" hole for the axle is 7/8" from the lower edge. When -nailing the axle blocks in place, put a dowel or lead pencil thru the -holes to help in nailing the blocks exactly opposite each other. - -After sawing a board for the wheel 4-1/4" square, draw the diagonals and -diameters (cornerwise and crosswise, that means) to divide it into eight -parts. Draw a 4" circle for the wheel and a 3-1/4" circle to mark the -depth of the notches for the paddles. Shape the wheel. (See page 20 for -directions.) Test it with the trysquare to keep the edge square with the -flat surface. Bore a 1/4" hole in the center with the greatest care, or -the wheel will wobble sidewise. The notches are cut with the back-saw -alone. One-eighth of an inch to one side of the eight lines across the -circle, saw straight down to the inner circle. Be careful to hold the -saw square with the wheel. After this saw cut is made, measure the width -of the notch by holding the edge of a paddle so as just to cover the saw -cut, and, with a knife point make a dot at the other side of the paddle. -Holding the trysquare against one side of the wheel and the inner edge -of its blade over the dot, score a knife line across the edge of the -wheel. Then saw straight down again _inside_ this knife line. Saw -cornerwise a few times and the wood will be removed sufficiently. The -notches may better be too small than too large, for the paddles can be -planed thinner to fit. Clean the wheel with the plane before nailing the -paddles. All these paddles except one can be nailed with the wheel held -in a corner of the vise. To nail that one, put a thin board upright in -the vise and rest the wheel on its top. All nails should be started in -the paddles, not in the wheel. - -[Illustration: WATERWHEEL - -PLATE 19] - -Make the axle of hard wood. Push it thru the axle blocks and wheel, and -lock it to the wheel with a brad, Plate 19. The axle is made long so -that a pulley (spool) can be put on and a belt (string) run from this to -other pulleys. A leather washer outside each axle block keeps the wheel -in the center. If the work has been carefully done, the paddles will not -strike; if they do strike, they must be pared off. - - - - - WATER MOTOR--PLATE 20. - - -This motor is a waterwheel designed for an ordinary hose faucet. Under a -stream of water no bigger than a large needle, it will fairly buzz. If -the wheel does not run exactly true on the axle, the motor will need -legs screwed on the outside of the box. - -Make the wheel of soft wood just as true as possible. (See page 20.) For -the axle a small brass rod or a large knitting needle may be used. In -the center of the wheel, drill a hole smaller than the axle so as to -make a tight fit. Be very careful to bore this hole straight. Force the -axle thru the wheel, and if the wheel wobbles only slightly drive wooden -wedges beside the axle to force it square with the wheel. If it wobbles -too much, plug the hole and try boring again. Resting the axle on the -jaws of the vise, revolve the wheel rapidly to see where it is out of -true, and patiently pare it down. The flat side of the wheel which -wobbles only a little can be planed off. The strip of screen wire -netting should now be tacked on the wheel. It is long enough to go twice -around the wheel, and should be tacked on with a dozen small tacks. - -For suggestions about the pulley see page 56. - -Prepare a block of soft wood for the coupling. From its bottom, gage a -line marking the height of the dovetails in which the blocks C and D fit -3/8" on each side. Saw these dovetails 3/16" deep, and pare them -slanting with a chisel. In the center of the top, bore a 1" hole, 3/4" -deep; continue the hole thru the block with a 1/2" bit. Bore holes 3/8" -from the top, 1/2" from the ends for the two 1-1/2" screws which are -shown in the small drawing, Plate 20. Gage and saw out the left-hand -half of the block (as shown in the plate) as deep as the 1" hole. The -purpose of this is to permit a squeezing fit on the threads of the -faucet. When first trying it on the faucet, squeeze it hard with a -hand-screw to jamb the threads into the wood; after that, the screws can -be put in and the coupling attached at pleasure. A 1/4" hole is bored in -the 1/2" dowel, which serves as a nozzle, until the spur just shows. -Without allowing the bit to bore any farther, turn it around enough so -that the spur will wear the wood and thus make a tapering hole as shown -in the sectional drawings. - -Prepare the sides, ends, and top of the box, the three blocks, the key -wedge, and the two stops. The wedge should be 1/16" wider at one end -than the other and should fit the dovetail. Block C should fit the -other. In the top piece, bore a 3/4" hole in the middle 1-1/4" from the -end. This hole is larger than the nozzle to allow for adjustments. All -these parts must now be thoroly soaked with paraffin. Melt the paraffin, -apply it with a brush to all surfaces, and drive it in with heat. During -the process, the nozzle can be made fast in the coupling, using plenty -of paraffin to make it water tight. See that the tiny outlet occupies -the best position for directing the water onto the wheel. After the -nozzle is cold again, the outlet should be carefully worked out again -with the warm point of a big hat-pin or wire, filed to a good point. - -Put the parts together as follows: Nail one side (the right in the -plate) to the ends; screw the other side to ends; nail top to ends and -first side only; nail block B to A; then A to the top. Unscrew the side -and bore holes in the center of the sides for the axle. Make them fit -nicely, then soak them with paraffin. Put the wheel, the side, the -pulley, and the stops in place. Put the coupling in such position that -the nozzle comes over the rim of the wheel and nail block C. After -putting two or three soft leather washers in the coupling screw it to -the faucet, lock it to the motor, and the motor is ready. - -Better bearings for the axle can be made of two pieces of solder screwed -to the inside of the sides. If these are made, the holes in the sides -should be large enough not to touch the axle. The wheel and pulley can -be locked to a brass axle by boring a hole thru the axle with a drill -made of a needle. (See Drills, page 11.) - -[Illustration: WATER MOTOR - -PLATE 20] - - - - - SAND WHEEL--PLATE 21. - - -Fine sand will make a wheel like this spin around lively. Most of the -parts are easily made, the wheel offering the most difficulties. - -As shown in the drawing it consists of two boxes, uprights connecting -the two, and a wheel with paddles swung on an axle between the uprights. - -[Illustration: Fig. 4] - -To make the curves on the uprights, lay them edge to edge in the vise -and start the spur of a large bit in the crack, 1-1/2" from each end. If -a big spool cannot be obtained for the wheel, plane out an octagonal -block 1-3/8" long, 1" in diameter. The slanting part of the spool must -be whittled away. Divide one end into eight equal parts and draw lines -lengthwise on the spool at each division. On these lines, measure very -carefully 11/16" from one end. Then, holding the spool level in the vise -bore 3/16" holes half thru the spool at each of these dots. The easiest -way to lay out the paddles is in one long piece as shown in Fig. 4. If -lines A and B are sawed carefully (see page 12) they will fit the spool -well enough to glue. The stems of the paddles go into the holes bored in -the spool. They are easily made round by paring the corners a little, -and then screwing them around in a 3/16" hole in a piece of hard wood. -The ends of the paddles where the sand strikes are bevelled on the under -side. The holes in the uprights, thru which 1-1/4" brads are pushed into -the center of the spool, must be exactly opposite each other, 3-1/4" -from the bottom. Little leather washers should be put between the spool -and the uprights. - -[Illustration: SAND WHEEL - -PLATE 21] - -Now make the boxes. To nail the boxes to the upright follow the -suggestions on page 59 for nailing the floor of the weather cottage. -Keep the brads near the center of the uprights lest they split the -curves. A 5/16" hole for the sand is bored in the upper box in such a -position that the sand will strike near the middle of the ends of the -paddles. The peg is tapered to fit this hole. - - - - - RUNNING WHEEL--PLATE 22. - - -It is fine fun for several boys to race down the street with running -wheels. Each boy can have a different kind of wheel by following the -suggestions on Plate 22. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5] - -The wheel may be made any convenient size. Saw a board off square and -plane it flat. To be sure that it is flat, it must be tested with a -straight-edge from corner to corner, crosswise, and lengthwise. Draw the -circle with a string pinned to the center, if a large compass is not at -hand. Saw it with a turning saw and finish it as suggested on page 20. -Bore and countersink a hole in the center for a 1-1/2" flat-head screw. -Make the handle and drill a small hole in it where the wheel is to be -screwed on. Round off the upper end and edges of the handle so that it -feels good to the hand grasping it. The screws used in the connecting -rod should slip easily thru the holes at each end. Altho one arm will -do, two look better. To draw the boy, draw as many 3/4" squares on the -board as there are in Fig. 5, then sketch the outline one square at a -time. To cut it out, a scroll-saw or turning-saw is almost surely -needed, tho a patient boy can do it with auger-bits, back-saw, knife, -and file--the bits to be used first at all the inside angles. On the -handle, must be put a block on which to screw the boy. To fasten the two -arms loosely at the shoulders, the screw should be loose in the shoulder -and first arm, and tight in the second arm. The same is true of the -hands and flagpole. In the top of the flagpole, bore a hole to fit a -small flag. Paint of bright colors makes the model look much more -pleasing. - -An easy way to make the sliding part of the lower right-hand running -wheel, Plate 22, is to cut out with bit and chisel a narrow slot thru -the handle, wide enough for two screws, with washers on them, which -screw into the block holding the flag. - -[Illustration: RUNNING WHEEL - -PLATE 22] - - - - - RATTLE--PLATE 23. - - -This is a noisy toy and will make a safe substitute for fire-crackers on -the Fourth of July. Some of the dimensions may be changed to suit such a -spool as can be obtained. It should be a rather deep spool, that is, one -that held a lot of thread. - -The noise is made by the spring snapping off the slats in the spool as -the head of the rattle is swung round and round. Draw lines across one -end of the spool to divide it into eight equal parts. Place the spool -endwise in the vise and, with the back-saw, cut eight notches a little -more than 1/16" wide straight towards the opposite side of the spool. By -sawing twice at each notch, the wood which remains can easily be removed -with the saw held slanting. There are several ways of making the eight -little slats which fit into these notches; the easiest, perhaps, is to -split them from a block (1-5/8" x 1-1/2" x 5/16") of a straight-grained -wood, and plane them on the jig described at the foot of page 19. Glue -them in the notches. Plane the back and the spring this same way. Square -both ends of the back but do not plane it quite to width until it is -glued and nailed in place. In the two sides, bore a 5/16" hole for the -dowel, 3/4" from the end and a little over 3/4" from the back edge. -(Holes are always located by their centers.) This dowel must fit tightly -in the handle and spool, and loosely in the two sides. Plane the spring -thinner at the narrow end. It should be narrow enough and its corners -cut off enough so as not to touch the spool when it snaps. The handle -might well be octagonal rather than round. - -The parts may now be put together as follows: Glue and nail the sides -first to the thick end, second to the thin end. The distance between the -ends inside is 3-5/16". Keep these four parts flush on the back edges so -that the back will fit. Glue and nail the back. Glue the dowel in the -handle. Put glue inside the spool and on the middle portion of the -dowel, then, with the spool between the two sides, push the dowel thru -all three holes. Glue and nail the spring in place. It should be as far -towards the spool as it will go without snapping the next slat when it -snaps off one slat. - -[Illustration: RATTLE - -PLATE 23] - - - - - CART--PLATE 24. - - -The important features of a cart are the wheels and axle and the tongue; -if these are strong and the tongue securely fastened, almost any box -will do for the body. Two tongues, nailed or screwed to the sides of the -body, probably make the strongest handle, but they are not so good -looking as the one shown in Plate 24. If this one is screwed to the box -with six 1" screws, two in the tongue and two in each block, it will be -strong enough. Some of the nicer boxes to be secured of a grocer will do -for a body, tho it is better to make one one's self. - -Four wheels of 1/2" hard wood should be made (see page 20) and then each -two of the four glued and nailed together very securely with the grain -crosswise. For this purpose, 1-1/4" clout, or clinch nails are best. Do -not drive them too near the center nor the rim. To clinch nails, they -should be driven onto a piece of iron. After this is done, a 7/8" hole -(or larger if you can get a larger stick for the axle) is bored straight -thru the center. To cut the cylindrical ends of the axle, first draw a -7/8" circle at the center of each end, then lay out and saw out two -rectangular pieces, one on each side of the circles so as to leave a -7/8" square pin, 2-1/4" long. Proceed to make these pins; first, eight -sided; then, sixteen sided; then, round; using knife or chisel and a -coarse flat file. Make the hole in the washers before cutting off each -corner 9/16". These washers are to be fastened to the axle when held -rather snugly against the wheel with two 1" screws put crosswise the -grain. Before putting the wheels on the last time, rub the axles and -holes well with hard soap to make them run easier. Draw a line across -the bottom of the body 5" from the back end, and bore four screw holes -thru the bottom; countersink them well on the inside of the body, and -put 1" screws thru into the flat side of the axle. The axle is planned -so that the wheels run within 1/8" of the body. - -[Illustration: CART - -PLATE 24] - -With a curved lower edge, the tongue is 2-1/2" wide at one end and -1-1/2" at the other. To get the correct slant at the wide end, block up -the cart level, have some one (or the vise) hold the tongue in the -position wanted when finished, then with a strip of wood about 2" wide -placed upright against the front of the body, draw a line on the tongue. -From the lowest corner of the tongue, draw another line parallel to the -first, and saw off. After making the two blocks and fastening them -securely to the tongue, saw the lower ends flush with the curve of the -tongue. Place the tongue in position, draw a line around it on the body, -then bore holes where screws will go best into the tongue and blocks. -Six 1" screws well countersunk will hold the tongue securely. Since the -tongue is fastened to the _front_, the sides and bottom must be well -nailed to _it_; or, the corners may be strengthened with a piece of tin -inside and outside each corner, tacked or riveted together. Each piece -of tin should be about 3" square. - -A piece of old bicycle frame forced tightly into the hole of a wheel, -makes it very durable. Such a hole would doubtless have to be bored with -an expansive bit. A bicycle frame is easily filed in two at some -distance from the reinforced joints. Such a piece should be longer than -the thickness of the wheel to allow filing it flush after it is driven -in. To force it in, use a strong vise, or, after protecting it with hard -wood, drive it slowly with a heavy hammer. - -Small carts can be made with wheels made of spools like those of the -cannon. (See Plate 25.) - - - - - CANNON--PLATE 25. - - -This cannon will shoot small marbles very well. The force of it depends, -of course, on the strength of the rubber bands. Because the ramrod and -handle are rather heavy, a strong dowel is put thru the handle and -ramrod. The rubber washer absorbs some of the shock. - -For the barrel draw a 1-1/4" circle on one end of a stick 6-1/2" x -1-1/2" x 1-1/2". From the center of this circle, bore a 9/16" hole -straight thru the stick endwise, stopping as soon as the spur comes -thru. Set the needle of the compass in this spur hole and draw a 1" -circle and, if possible, a 1-1/4" circle; then finish boring. - -Plane the stick round to the 1-1/4" circle. To hold the stick while -doing this, put a rod thru the hole, open the vise 6-1/2" and let the -barrel rest endwise in the vise. Two and one-half inches from the breech -end of the barrel, draw a line around it to limit the taper of the -muzzle end. Plane the muzzle to the 1" circle. Two inches from the -breech, bore a 3/8" hole straight thru the barrel; and into this hole -glue the axle. After the glue is dry, bore out the barrel again, and -sandpaper the hole well. - -Make the ramrod fit loosely in the barrel. (See directions for Dart, -page 16.) Make the handle in the same manner as the barrel was made, -except that, after drawing the 1-1/4" circle at the end where the spur -just appears, the hole is _not_ bored further. Glue the ramrod in place, -and fasten it with the 3/8" dowel. The curved notch into which the -rubber bands are tied, can be worked out patiently with a round file, -first cutting a V-shaped notch with a knife. Pare the corners and -sandpaper all parts well. - -The rubber washer can be made of an old rubber heel. To bore a hole in -it, squeeze it between two boards and bore thru both together. - -At least one of the uprights must be screwed to the base. The first one -may be nailed. Glue and nail this one 1/4" from the edge of the base. -Hold the other in place and draw a line around it. Bore holes for the -screws, put the screws in the holes, and press the upright on them to -mark where to bore in the upright. After boring in the uprights, put the -cannon and upright in place, and tighten the screws. The wheels can be -made of the ends of large spools, well countersunk for a short, large -screw. - -[Illustration: CANNON - -PLATE 25] - -[Illustration: AUTOMOBILE - -PLATE 26] - - - - - AUTOMOBILE--PLATE 26. - - -Tho the motor (an elastic band) which makes this automobile go is a -short-winded affair, still, if the wheels are easy running, it will go -alone for a short distance on a wooden floor. A stronger elastic can be -used if the automobile carries a load. If the parts are painted with -bright colors before they are entirely put together, the automobile will -look very well. - -First, make the body, then 4-1/4" from the front end and 3/4" from the -right side, bore a 1/4" hole in the body for the steering post. This -should fit tightly so as to hold the wheels in any position desired. -Leather washers are nailed to the post close to the body. The steering -post must be put in place before any other parts are fastened to the -body. - -The ends of the rails which are later fastened to the bottom of the -body, slant 1/2". The center of the holes for the axles is 3/4" beyond -this slanting line and 1/4" above the lower edge of the rails. When -boring these 1/4" holes, the rails should be clamped together so that -the holes will be exactly opposite each other. The forward holes are -made long to allow the axles to swing back and forth. To make this hole, -two 1/4" holes are bored side by side and the top and bottom smoothed -with a 1/4" chisel. When nailing the body to the rails, put the rear -axle thru the holes to aid in keeping them opposite each other. - -The forward axle is made in one piece and kept so until after the -steering "rope" is in place. The axle must be held carefully in place -while the brad holes are bored 1/8" from the outer edge of the rails and -straight thru the center of the axle. A tight fitting brad is driven -into this hole. The steering rope must not stretch; large, hard thread -is suitable. Wind a piece about 18" long tightly around the axle about -1/4" from one rail and tie it. Pass one end thru the small screw-eyes -shown in the lower drawing, and wind it around the axle near the other -rail leaving no slack in the screw-eyes; then wind six to eight turns -smoothly around the steering post, and fasten the end to the beginning -with several half-hitches. (See Plate 15.) A separate thread should be -tied around the axle and steering rope at the second place. Should -there be any slack, it can be taken up by laying a V-shaped thread over -the steering rope near the axle and passing the two ends over the upper -side of the axle, and tying them across the steering rope on the other -side of the axle. This tends to pull the steering rope together on top -of the axle. - -The wheels can be sawed from short lengths of curtain poles, obtained at -a furniture store. The 1/4" holes for the axle, must be bored exactly at -the center. The wheels must turn freely on the front axle, but be glued -to the rear axle, which must itself turn freely in the rails. After the -wheels are in place, the front axle can be sawed in two with a back-saw, -using very short strokes, and sawing two cuts nearly thru before either -is sawed completely. - -Nail the wind-shield to the engine, then glue both to the body. Nail the -seat-back to the seat so that the top of the seat will be 3/4" above the -body, then nail the two sides to the end and to the seat-back and seat. -Glue the whole to the body. Nails can be driven up thru the body into -the engine, the seat back, and the end, if care is used in locating -them. - -One end of the elastic band (motor) is tied with a bit of string to a -brad driven in the forward end of the body of the automobile. On the -other end of the elastic band is tied a piece of string about 8" long. -This is put just under the body and above the steering rope and wound -two or three times tightly around the rear axle and tied. The string and -elastic band should be simply straight, the elastic neither stretched -nor loose. To wind up the motor, move the automobile backwards on the -floor and hold the rear wheels until ready to let the automobile go. - - - - - BOW PISTOL--PLATE 27. - - -For target shooting in the house, this is a fine toy. With nicely made -arrows and a good bow, it will shoot very well. - -Make a good bow of rattan, or other tough wood. An old spoke of a -carriage wheel could doubtless be obtained of a blacksmith or -wheelwright, and such a hickory spoke would make a good bow. Make the -bow much like that shown on Plate 8, except that it should be round at -the center to fit the 3/8" hole in the pistol. The bowstring should be -a hard cord so that it will slip easily from the notches in the barrel -when the trigger is pulled. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6] - -Before shaping the pistol, make the groove in the center of one edge of -the board. This should be made with a 3/8" round plane. It can be made, -however, with the tool shown in Fig. 6, a gouge, and a round file. This -tool is much like the one described on page 41 tho a larger nail is -used. Make the groove 7/32" deep; gage a line 3/16" from each side of -the board; then use the gouge inside these lines and as deep as the -groove. When the gouging is well done, smooth the groove with a round -file or coarse sandpaper wrapped around a pencil. - -Draw and shape the pistol. Make the lower edge of the barrel half round. -Sandpaper it well. Make the trigger of hard wood and screw it on the -pistol. The shape of the notch next to the trigger is very important but -the shape of the other one is not so. Both notches, however, must be so -smooth and well rounded as not to injure the bowstring. They should be -not deeper than one-half the depth of the groove. - -Arrows are quickly made by sawing long strips of straight-grained wood, -3/16" square, planing the corners, and sandpapering; then cutting them -5" long, splitting the ends (see page 16), inserting a paper 1" x 1/2" -and tying the end with thread. - -[Illustration: BOW PISTOL - -PLATE 27] - - - - - ELASTIC GUN--PLATE 28. - - -If cash carrier elastic cord about 5/16" in diameter and 18" long is -used on this gun, it will shoot buckshot, peas, small arrows, etc., with -considerable force; in fact, if the cord is fastened far enough forward, -it will require all a boy's strength to pull the rider back to the hook. -The gun may be made of pine, whitewood or clear spruce. - -[Illustration: Fig. 7] - -To lay out the gun (see Fig. 7) first draw A B, then A C, then measure B -D and draw C D; next measure the width of the barrel and draw E F; add -3/8" below this for the gun-stock, and finally draw the curves freehand. -To saw it out, first rip it along E F, then cross cut it at H F, then -rip it as far the curve along C D, and then along the lower side of the -gun-stock to meet C D, finally along A B. Of course, none of this sawing -should quite touch the lines. Plane to these lines wherever possible, -then use the spokeshave. The curve and corner at F should be pared with -a chisel. The lower edge of the gun-stock and barrel is made half-round, -but the upper edge, especially where the spring is screwed, is only -slightly round. The curve at the butt of the gun-stock should be cut out -with the turning-saw, and rounded with a half-round file. The groove can -be made as in the bow pistol. (See page 86.) - -All parts of the gun should be well sandpapered, especially where the -elastic will rub on the barrel. - -Make the trigger of tough wood. - -[Illustration: ELASTIC GUN - -PLATE 28] - -Bore a 1/4" hole for the trigger post about 3/4" from the back end of -the groove, making it slant forward about 3/4". Make this hole smooth as -possible. Where the hole comes thru the gun-stock, start the mortise in -which the trigger belongs. This should be 3/8" deep and an easy fit for -the trigger. Put the trigger in place, and drill a small hole straight -thru the gun-stock and trigger. Consider carefully where to bore this -hole so that it will not come too near the edge of the trigger. Insert a -good-fitting brad and see if the trigger post will move up and down -about 1/4". Do not make the mortise so long that the trigger post will -slip by the trigger. - -Now make the spring of hard wood. Pare the curve from each end with a -chisel, holding the spring endwise in the bench-hook. The holes for the -screw and the hook must be large enough so that the spring will not be -split, and yet the hook must be screwed in strongly to hold the elastic. -The hook must be filed off enough, and slanting, so that the screw-eye -in the rider will slide under it and be caught. - -The rider is the hardest part to make because it is small and must be of -hard wood; also, the block must be nicely fitted into the long piece. -Make the lower edge of the long piece round so as to slide well in the -groove. Bore a 5/16" hole thru the block _endwise_ the grain, -countersink the ends, and smooth them so that they cannot injure the -elastic. Next lay out, saw, and chisel a notch 5/16" deep in the long -piece in which the block will fit snugly. Glue it and nail it from the -under side, or put in a 1/2" screw. Holes will have to be bored -carefully for either brads or screw. Bore a hole, and put the screw-eye -in such a position that it will slide under the hook with a snap. Be -careful not to twist the eye off in this hard wood. The back end of the -eye might well be filed somewhat slanting so as to slip under the hook -better. - -Put the elastic thru the rider, snap the rider on the hook, and pull the -ends of the elastic as far as seems best,--don't have it too strong! -Where the ends of the elastic are pulled, bore two 1/4" holes thru the -barrel one above the other. Bind the elastic securely between these -holes; to make it doubly secure, wind a string between the elastic and -the barrel to pull the first strings closer together. - -Now saw off the ends of a spool about 1/2" and screw them to the barrel -in such a place that they will hold the elastic, without stretching, -against the sides of the barrel. These spools should turn easily. They -cannot be placed exactly opposite because the screws will interfere. - -Snap the rider to the hook, pull the trigger, and notice that the rider -goes up with the trigger post. To hold it down, put a slender 3/4" screw -on each side of the groove in such a place that the screw heads will -come over the outside of the screw-eye; or, 1" brads may be bent over -the screw-eye. When everything is in working order, drive a 1" brad on -each side of the spring to keep the hook always in place. - - - - - RATTLE-BANG GUN--PLATE 29. - - -For boys who want to play soldier, here is a gun which will make a big -noise but will not hurt anybody. - -First, make the rattle of maple. The slot in it can be made with the -rip-saw. The solid end must be nicely squared to fit the forward end of -the pocket cut out of the gun-stock. Here it must be held firmly in -place by glue and two screws. One screw is put slanting from the top of -the gun-stock; the other is put straight from the bottom. That the -rattle may sound the loudest, it must not touch anywhere else than this -solid end. When putting the knocker and trigger in place, see that they -also do not touch the rattle. The gun-stock is made like that of the -elastic gun (Plate 28) except that it has to be 2-3/8" wide in that -portion which holds the rattle. The pocket is 3-1/2" from the forward -end and 1-1/2" deep where the solid part of the rattle fits. To put the -slanting screw in nicely, a place must be cut out with a small chisel -for its head, 3/8" deep and 1/2" away from the pocket. Clamp the rattle -in position, bore a hole for the screw, then glue and screw the rattle -in place. Before the glue is dry, see that the rattle is straight, then -put the lower screw into it. - -Make the knocker of maple. The reason for the triangular notch in its -bottom edge will be evident when the trigger is turned around. The -stiffer the spring is, the harder, of course, it will strike the rattle, -and also, the harder the trigger will turn; 1/8" will be thick enough -for the thinnest place. - -The trigger should also be of maple. Join it with a cross-lap joint. -(See page 24.) Then, holding each end successively upright in the vise, -draw the slanting lines and saw for 3/8" lengthwise in such a way as to -leave 1/16" flat on each of the two adjacent surfaces. After sawing -endwise, saw the little corner pieces off crosswise. The trigger has to -withstand considerable pulling, so it should fit nicely, yet easily, a -1" screw in its center. Before screwing either the knocker or the -trigger in place, lay both on the gun-stock so that they will engage -properly; then mark the place for the screws, drill holes, and screw -them on. If the knocker touches the rattle, take it off and plane a -slanting chip or two where it is screwed to the gun-stock. A thin -leather washer 5/8" in diameter will prevent the trigger touching. A -little soap will make the trigger turn easier. - -[Illustration: RATTLE-BANG GUN - -PLATE 29] - -The barrel may well be made of a broomstick. To make it fit on the top -of the gun-stock, saw it down the middle and cut off the lower half. -Before fastening it in place, be sure that it will not touch the -sounding part of the rattle. - -[Illustration: Fig. 8] - -A still louder and more difficult rattle to make is shown in Fig. 8. -Most boys would find it impossible to bore a 1" hole endwise in maple. -The knocker and trigger would both have to be set out from the -gun-stock. - - - - - BOAT--PLATE 30. - - -This boat is designed rather heavy to insure good service. It has -ballast and beam enough to right itself even tho the sails do get wet. -If a better looking boat is desired, draw the deck more slender; hollow -the hull with bit and gouge; pare the gunwales with the spokeshave to -give it some sheer; and nail on a thin deck. Soft pine is the best wood -for the hull and spruce for the spars. - -To lay out the hull, draw a center-line lengthwise on top, bottom, and -ends of the block of wood. Make all the measurements given on the deck; -(top of the hull, Plate 30) first lengthwise, then crosswise. Square -with the deck, the curve should be worked out with rip-saw and -spokeshave. The stem should next be undercut with the saws (rip and -crosscut) so as to make place for the rudder. On the bottom leave a flat -place 7-1/4" x 1/2" for the keel to fit; then round the hull as -suggested by the sectional drawings at AB and CD. - -Make the keel and nail it securely in place. From the under side of the -boat and slanting the same as the keel and undercut, bore a 5/8" hole -for the stem of the rudder. - -Make the rudder and tiller of 1/4" wood. The little mortise in the -tiller can be cut with a small chisel after a 3/16" hole is bored at its -center. For the wheel, make a dowel about 2" long and into one end of it -bore a hole about 1" deep for a 1-1/4" screw. Saw a piece from this end -5/8" long and screw it to the deck about 1-1/2" in front of the hole -bored for the rudder. The wheel should turn rather hard so as to stay in -any position desired. - -To make the spars, (mast, boom, etc.,) follow the directions on page 16. -Use large screw-eyes in the gaff and boom (or see Plate 16, "method of -swinging booms to mast") and a very small one at the top of the mast. To -nail the bowsprit securely, place it 1" back of the prow, drive a 1" -brad thru it near the prow, and one on each side of it 3/4" back. Bend -these latter over the bowsprit before they are driven in their full -length. An upward slant is given to the bowsprit by planing its larger -end slanting to fit the deck. - -The rudder is hung on two staples made of pins. Two headless pins are -driven into the rudder and bent down at right angles to slip into these -staples. In order that the stem of the rudder may turn enough, the -rudder must be hung close to the hull. Each "rope" of the rigging should -have its own screw-eye (or staple) and cleat on the deck. The cleat (a -device for fastening a "rope" in any position, by winding it back and -forth) is simply two slender brads driven slanting. - -The mainsail should be 9" on the mast and 11" at its outer edge. It -should be hemmed and properly fastened to the spars. On the mast, fine -wire rings or loops of thread may be used. The jib should extend 9" up -the stay (the "rope" from the end of the bowsprit to the top of the -mast) and be either sewed to it or made to slide on it with small rings -of wire. - -Ballast can be cut (with tin-shears or saw) from lead pipe and nailed to -the keel. To drive brads thru lead, pinch them between the thumb and -finger, and drive them gently. - -For convenience in holding the boat when it is out of the water, make a -dry dock as shown in the drawing. - -[Illustration: BOAT - -PLATE 30] - - - - - PILE-DRIVER--PLATE 31. - - -In wet, soft soil, wherever any building operations are to be -undertaken, long, straight logs called piles have first to be driven to -support the foundation. In wet soil they never rot; those driven for the -building of Venice centuries ago are still solid. If holes are bored in -the weight of this toy pile-driver, it is made more effective. - -This is not a difficult model if each part is well made. It is -important, however, to nail it in the following order: Runs to uprights, -uprights to sides, sides to base, top to uprights, braces to uprights, -then to base. The ends of the braces are mitered, that is, sawed, like -the corner of a picture-frame, on the diagonal of a square. The axle of -the little spool is made by two 1" brads, and it rests in notches as -near the end of the top blocks as is convenient to file them. It is held -in place by little brads, or pins crossed over it, or by a staple made -of a pin. A crank for the big spool (called the drum) is made of a 3" -piece of stiff wire. It should be flattened enough not to turn in the -drum. Fasten the string to the drum thru a little hole drilled thru its -rim. If the string comes off the upper spool, put a large screw-eye into -the top piece and pass the string thru it. - -[Illustration: PILE DRIVER - -PLATE 31] - - - - - WINDMILL--PLATE 32. - - -On a hilltop, exposed to every wind that blows, one of these windmills -made by a boy has been spinning around for four years. The windmill in -this form serves also as a weathervane. Pine is the best wood for this -model. To withstand the weather, the model should be painted. - -After planing the post to size, lay out the chamfers (see page 32) with -a pencil on all four sides. The curve should be cut with a knife; the -upper part may be planed if the square part is not squeezed in the vise. -Plane the two pieces for the vanes as accurately as possible so as to be -able to make a good joint. Lay out and cut this joint as directed on -page 24. After it is well fitted, draw the curves where the edges are to -be whittled away. There are sixteen of them. Open the compass 3/4" and -place the needle point always on the _front right-hand_ edge as the -wheel turns around. The curve begins 1/8" from the joint and ends 1/8" -from the back edge (one also goes towards the lower edge). From this -point draw a straight line to the end of the vane. Draw such lines as -explained on page 32. Take the joint apart and whittle the edges away to -these curves. - -On the beam, make chamfers 1-3/4" long. At the rear end, on the top and -bottom, draw a center-line and two lines on each side of the center-line -1/8" apart. Between the first two, nearest the center-line, make the -V-shaped groove in which the rudder fits. The sides of the beam are to -be pared away to the other two lines, leaving this end 1/2" wide. - -The curves at the rear end of the rudder can be sawed best with a scroll -saw. Lacking that, proceed as follows: First, bore a 1/4" hole near the -short straight line in the middle. Resting the rudder on a cutting -board, pare to this line with a chisel. Next, saw straight from the end -of the rudder to this straight line; then saw the corners, and pare to -the curves. The width of the notch at the front end of the rudder is -equal to the space left between the roots of the V-shaped notches in the -beam. Measure this space, lay out the notch, saw, and chisel it; then -pare the corners so as to fit the V-shaped notches in the beam. Beware -of crowding the rudder, for it will split easily. When fitted, glue and -nail it in place, slanting a 1" brad thru the curve into the beam. - -[Illustration: WINDMILL - -PLATE 32] - -Put the wheel on the beam with two washers and a large screw (2" No. 12 -round head is a good one). For this screw bore a 1/4" hole thru the -center of the wheel, and a smaller hole in the beam. Now balance the -windmill on the top of the post, and put the beam and post together with -washers and screw in the same manner. - - - - - KITE-STRING REEL--PLATE 33. - - -A boy who flies kites will appreciate this reel for hauling in his kite -quickly and keeping the string in order. The axle is made long for the -purpose of putting on a brake when letting out a kite. The brake is -simply a strong cord, fastened to a screw in the lower part of the -further upright, (as viewed in Plate 33) wound several times around the -axle, and the other end held in the hand. A 1" hole is bored in the base -so that the reel can be anchored to the ground with a stake. With a loop -of string fastened to the upright below the crank, the crank can be kept -from turning, if one does not wish to let out all of the kite-string. - -Make the base first, then the uprights. In the uprights, it is more -convenient to bore the 9/16" holes before the sides are planed slanting. -After the wheel pieces are joined in the manner explained on page 24, -lay out the slanting lines on each arm while the joint is still -together; then take it apart and plane to the slanting lines. Hold each -piece securely slantwise in the vise, because one pair especially is apt -to split from the notch outward. When this planing is finished, glue the -joint and bore a 1/2" hole straight thru the center. If convenient, make -the cross pieces in one long piece, 20", planing off one corner flat -(see sectional drawing, Plate 33) within 1/8" of the two adjacent -corners. Being careful to drive no brad into the 1/2" hole, glue and -nail these four cross pieces to one wheel. Then glue them to the other -wheel and wind some string around tightly enough to hold this wheel -while adjusting and nailing it. It will require care to get the cross -pieces square with the first wheel, and the second wheel parallel with -the first. After the string is wound around to hold the second wheel, -measure the distance from wheel to wheel at the ends of all the arms. -The nailing can be done while one arm of the wheels is held in the vise. -The axle and handle should be glued and nailed to the crank. Now put the -reel together, not forgetting the washers inside the uprights, and lock -the wheels to the axle by drilling a hole for a 2" nail thru cross -piece, wheel, and axle. - -[Illustration: KITE STRING REEL - -PLATE 33] - -[Illustration: STRING MACHINE - -PLATE 34] - - - - - STRING MACHINE--PLATE 34. - - -On a machine like this, one can twist bowstrings, topstrings, -fish-lines, silk cord for fancy work, and any similar cord. Tho designed -to be held on the floor or table with flat-irons, clamps, of course, -will hold it better. - -Make the tail piece first. In the cross pieces of the tail piece are two -screws 7/8" from the ends; be careful to bore the holes large enough so -the screws will not split them. The edges of the lower cross piece must -be sandpapered enough not to cut the elastic bands. - -In order that the belt shall run on the center of the wheels in the head -piece, it is important to have the three axles parallel. To make them -so, the two uprights must be clamped together while boring the 3/8" -holes for the axles. Lest the spur of the bit split the uprights, drill -small holes at each center first. Do not nail the longer upright to the -base until the belt runs well in both directions. On a lathe, the wheels -and axles could easily be made of one piece; lacking a lathe, a big -spool or curtain pole must be used. Plug the hole of the spool with a -dowel, then very accurately find its center and bore a 3/8" hole thru -it. Saw it into three 5/8" pieces for the wheels. Glue these to the -axles so that 1" extends thru the taller upright. A belt runs better on -a wheel that is "crowned," that is, slightly larger in the middle; so -the edges of these wheels must be pared 1/32", making a gentle curve. -Put the washers each side of the wheels, then put the wheels in place in -the taller upright, and nail this to the triangular block. Pull a 5/8" -leather belt tightly around the three wheels and sew the ends so that -they butt together. Clamp the shorter upright in position and turn the -upper axle to see if the belt runs well in both directions. It will run -true when all three axles are parallel, so keep knocking the shorter -upright from side to side or up and down until the belt does run true; -then bore holes for three screws to hold it to the triangular block. -Make the crank and lock it to the upper axle with a 1/2" screw. - -To twist a string, set the two parts of the machine somewhat farther -apart than the finished length desired, put on as many threads, from -hooks on the tail piece to corresponding hooks on the head piece, as -will make the finished string the desired size. Observe how these -separate threads were twisted, and start the machine in the _opposite_ -way. Twist until the three strands kink readily when the head piece is -brought nearer the tail piece. The tighter these are twisted, the harder -the string will be. (Soap rubbed on the inside of the belt may make the -belt carry more power). When these three strands are twisted enough, -remove the two lower ones from their _hooks on the head piece_ to the -upper hook. Twist in the _opposite_ direction until the string kinks -again, and it is made. If the three strands are waxed, a stronger string -will be made. - - - - - WINDMILL FORCE-PUMP--PLATE 35. - - -If this pump is properly connected with an air chamber, as explained -later, it will send a small stream of water some ten feet. In a gale, -the windmill is strong enough, in fact, to force the valves from the -glass tubes. Like any model of considerable mechanism, this will require -patience to get it in working order. The post is made short for -stability. If it can be held in place firmly, a trestlework tower like a -real windmill might be built of stock 1/2" x 1/2" for the corner posts -and 1/2" x 1/8" for the braces. - -The post is slanting on two sides to fit the journals at the top. It is -fastened to the base with two 2" screws. Make the wheel center 2-1/8" -square, and thru its center bore a 1/4" hole. If it does not revolve -true, make another block and try again. Make the block octagonal by -cutting off each corner 5/8". On each of the eight faces saw notches -1/8" wide and 5/16" deep into which the vanes will fit. (See page 64 on -cutting notches.) Make and glue the vanes in place and lay the wheel -flat to dry. - -Procure three pieces of water-gage glass 2" long, 7/16" to 1/2" inside -diameter. Glass tubes can be broken apart by filing a slight notch, -grasping the tube firmly each side of the notch, and pulling and bending -the tube away from the notch. If the file starts a little break, this -will be comparatively easy, if it does not, file some more. Into two -tubes little valves must be cemented. These can be made of a firm piece -of leather. Sole leather that is not too hard is best. With knife or -chisel, pare two pieces on the cutting board to fit in the tubes. The -cement will make them water tight later. Push the sharp point of a -penknife into the smooth side of the leather disk and make a circular -cut, as one would remove a speck from an apple, but do not cut the flap -completely out, because it must be left hinged to the disk. Turn this -flap up straight out of the way so as to be able to work a 1/4" hole -thru the disk. This can be punched, drilled, or cut out with a 1/8" -chisel, and finished with a penknife. Of course, the edges of the flap -should cover this hole completely. The valve in the lowest tube should -be cemented about 1/2" from the lower end with the flap up, that in the -horizontal tube about 3/4" from the outer end with the flap out. - -[Illustration: WINDMILL FORCE-PUMP - -PLATE 35] - -To make sealing-wax sticky enough to cement these valves in the tubes, -melt one teaspoon of wax with one-half teaspoon of turpentine in a large -spoon, and allow it to cool. Break it in pieces small enough to go in -the tubes. Put the valve in the tube a little to one side of its final -position; put in some of the wax mixture; heat the tube in an alcohol -flame, rolling the tube till the wax begins to melt; remove from the -flame; and when the wax is all melted, push the valve to its final -position with a pencil. While it is cooling, see that the wax does not -flow into the valve. All three tubes must have a piece of rubber tubing -on the outside to serve as packing in the wooden block. With an -expansive bit, holes can be bored in the block so that the rubber tubing -will fit tightly. Lacking that, bore a smaller hole and enlarge it with -a round file. The center of the vertical hole is somewhat to the left -(as viewed in Plate 35) of the center of the block to allow the -horizontal tube more support. This will require the notch in the upright -also to be to the left of the center. After the holes are bored, the -pores of the wood must be filled with paraffin. In a little dish, melt -some paraffin and put it into the holes with a rag tied to a stick. When -the holes are well covered, drive the wax into the wood with an alcohol -or candle flame held in the hole till the wood is fairly hot. The -outside of the block might well be treated in like manner. It will be -best to cement these tubes in their places. Melt a tablespoon of sealing -wax with about as much turpentine. With this, not too hot, build up a -good fillet over the rubber tubing 1/4", perhaps, on the glass tubes. - -Make a good fitting piston for the upper tube; it must not slide hard -(oil it) and yet it must be air tight. To make the piston file two -grooves 1/2" apart around and near the end of the piston rod. Wind a -hummock of yarn between these grooves till it almost fills the tube, -then wrap a piece of soft cloth (knitted underwear) smoothly over the -hummock, tying it in each groove with thread. - -Lock the crank to the axle with a 1/2" screw. Adjust the axle and keep -it in position with two leather washers locked to the axle just outside -the journals. Clamp the block to the base, adjust it in line with the -crank, and fasten it with two 1-1/2" screws up thru the base. The last -connection to make is between the crank and connecting-rod. To make -this, raise the piston to its highest position, and turn the crank to -its lowest; choose what seems the best point for the screw, marking the -point on crank and connecting-rod; now lower the piston and raise the -crank; if the two points do not come together, the screw should be -placed half way between them. This screw should be tight in the crank. -The wheel can now be glued to the axle or locked with a brad slanting -from the front of the wheel center. - -Before they will work, the valves must be made limber with water, and to -start the pump, water may have to be put on each side of the valves. -Water may be pumped to any height by fastening a pipe to the horizontal -tube. To obtain a steady stream, like a fire-engine, connect the -horizontal tube with an air-tight bottle. The pipe which goes into this -bottle should reach just below the stopper. The outlet pipe should -nearly reach the bottom of the bottle, and it should have a nozzle -smaller than any other opening in the whole apparatus. The bottle should -be partly full of water. Quarter-inch glass tubing can be melted and -shaped in an alcohol flame, and, if some rubber tubing is used as a -connection, the nozzle can be played anywhere. - - - - - BOOKS _for_ BOYS - - - Especially Helpful for the Use of Boys in their Home Shops - - -BEGINNING WOODWORK, At Home and in School. - -_By Clinton S. VanDeusen._ - -A full and clear description in detail of the fundamental processes of -elementary benchwork in wood. This description is given thru directions -for making a few simple, useful articles, suitable either for school or -home problems. The book contains more than one hundred original sketches -and ten working drawings. Price, $1.00. - - -MANUAL TRAINING TOYS, for the Boys' Workshop. - -_By Harris W. Moore._ - -This book contains a collection of working drawings illustrating -forty-two projects, overflowing with "boy" interest. It is a popular -boys' book that is truly educational. The projects are all new in the -manual training shop. The text gives instructions for making each -project and treats of tools and tool processes. Price, $1.00. - - -_The_ CONSTRUCTION _and_ FLYING _of_ KITES. - -_By Charles M. Miller._ - -A book of unusual interest to the boy. It contains seven full-page -plates of drawings of kites and fifteen figures--over forty kites shown. -Details of construction are given and a kite tournament is described. -Full of interesting suggestions. Price, 20 cents. - - -ESSENTIALS _of_ WOODWORKING. - -_By Ira S. Griffith._ - -A textbook written especially for the use of grammar and high school -students. A clear and comprehensive treatment of woodworking tools, -materials, and processes, to supplement, but not to take the place of -the instruction given by the teacher. The book does not contain a course -of models; it may be used with any course. It is illustrated with -photographs and numerous pen drawings. Price, $1.00. - - - THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS - - PEORIA, ILLINOIS - - - - - BOOKS _for_ BOYS - - -The "Problems Series" of Working Drawings, Good for Either Home or -School Use - - -PROJECTS _for_ BEGINNING WOODWORK _and_ MECHANICAL DRAWING. - -_By Ira S. Griffith._ - -A work book for the use of students in grammar grade classes. It -consists of working drawings and working directions. The projects are -such as have proven of exceptional service where woodworking and -mechanical drawing are taught in a thoro, systematic manner in the -seventh and eighth grades. The aim has been to provide successful rather -than unique problems. The fifty projects in the book have been selected -and organized with the constant aim of securing the highest educational -results. The book is especially suited for use in connection with -"Essentials of Woodworking" by the same author. Price, 75 cents. - - -PROBLEMS _in_ WOODWORKING. - -_By M. W. Murray._ - -A convenient collection of good problems consisting of forty plates -bound in heavy paper covers with brass fasteners. Each plate is a -working drawing, or problem in benchwork that has been successfully -worked out by boys in one of the grades from seven to nine inclusive. -Price, 75 cents. Board covers, 95 cents. - - -ADVANCED PROJECTS _in_ WOODWORK. - -_By Ira S. Griffith._ - -This book is similar to "Projects for Beginning Woodwork and Mechanical -Drawing," but is suited to high school needs. It consists of fifty -plates of problems and accompanying notes. It is essentially a -collection of problems in furniture making selected or designed with -reference to school use. On the plate with each working drawing is a -good perspective sketch of the completed object. In draftsmanship and -refinement of design these problems are of superior quality. It is in -every respect an excellent collection. Price, $1.00. - - THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS - - PEORIA, ILLINOIS - - - - - BOOKS _for_ BOYS - - -The "Problems Series" of Working Drawings Good for Either Home or School -Use - - -PROBLEMS _in_ FURNITURE MAKING. - -_By Fred D. Crawshaw._ - -This book, revised and enlarged, consists of 43 full-page plates of -working drawings suitable for use in grammar and high schools and 36 -pages of text, including chapters on design, construction and finishes, -and notes on the problems. Each project is shown in its completed form -by a perspective sketch. Loose leaf, bound in board covers with brass -fasteners. Price, $1.00. - - -PROBLEMS _in_ WOOD-TURNING. - -_By Fred D. Crawshaw._ - -In the first place this is a book of problems--25 plates covering -spindle, faceplate, and chuck turning. In the second place it is a -textbook on the science and art of wood-turning illustrated by fifty pen -sketches. It gives the mathematical basis for the cuts used in turning. -In the third place it is a helpful discussion of the principles of -design as applied to objects turned in wood. It is a clear, practical -and suggestive book on wood-turning. Price, 80 cents. Board covers, -$1.00. - - -PROBLEMS _in_ MECHANICAL DRAWING. - -_By Charles A. Bennett._ With drawings made by Fred D. Crawshaw. - -This book consists of 80 plates and a few explanatory notes, and is -bound in heavy paper covers with brass fasteners. Its purpose is to -furnish teachers of classes beginning mechanical drawing with a large -number of simple, practical problems. These have been selected with -reference to the formation of good habits in technique, the interest of -the pupils, and the subjects generally included in a grammar and -first-year high school course. Each problem given is unsolved and -therefore in proper form to hand to the pupil for solution. Price, -$1.00. Board covers, $1.20. - - - THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS - - PEORIA, ILLINOIS - - - - - BOOKS _for_ BOYS - - -Some Choice Books for Home or School Libraries - - -HANDWORK _in_ WOOD. - -_By William Noyes._ - -A handbook for teachers and a textbook for normal school and college -students. A comprehensive and scholarly treatise, covering logging, -sawmilling, seasoning and measuring, hand tools, wood fastenings, -equipment and care of the shop, the common joints, types of wood -structures, principles of joinery, and wood finishing. 304 -illustrations--excellent pen drawings and many photographs. Price, -$2.00. - - -WOOD _and_ FOREST. - -_By William Noyes._ - -A companion volume to "Handwork in Wood," by the same author. Especially -adapted as a reference book for teachers of woodworking. Not too -difficult for use as a textbook for normal school and college students. -Treats of wood, distribution of American forests, life of the forest, -enemies of the forest, destruction, conservation and uses of the forest, -with a key to the common woods by Filibert Roth. Describes 67 principal -species of wood with maps of the habitat, leaf drawings, life size -photographs and microphotographs of sections. Contains a general -bibliography of books and articles on wood and forest. Profusely -illustrated with photographs from the United States forest service and -with pen and ink drawings by Anna Gausmann Noyes and photographs by the -author. 309 pages. Price, $3.00. - - -BOOKS _on the_ MANUAL ARTS. - -A catalog listing and describing 260 books on the manual arts, including -all the standard and the best of the recent publications. It is an -up-to-date bibliography and a valuable reference book for teachers, -librarians and all interested in manual, industrial, and vocational -education. Mailed free on request. - - - THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS - - PEORIA, ILLINOIS - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Manual Training Toys for the Boy's -Workshop, by Harris W. 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