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diff --git a/41158-8.txt b/41158-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 9ac69dd..0000000 --- a/41158-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3718 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Golden Alaska, by Ernest Ingersoll - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Golden Alaska - A Complete Account to Date of the Yukon Valley - -Author: Ernest Ingersoll - -Release Date: October 24, 2012 [EBook #41158] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GOLDEN ALASKA *** - - - - -Produced by Greg Bergquist and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - -[Transcriber's Note: Bold text is surrounded by =equal signs= and italic -text by _underscores_.] - - - -=North American Transportation and Trading Company= - - -[Illustration] - - -_DIRECTORS..._ - - _JOHN J. HEALY, Dawson, Klondike Gold Fields_ - _ELY E. WEARE, Fort Cudahy, N. W. T._ - _CHARLES A. WEARE, Chicago, Ill._ - _JOHN CUDAHY, Chicago, Ill._ - _PORTUS B. WEARE, Chicago, Ill._ - _MICHAEL CUDAHY, Chicago, Ill._ - - -ALASKA and NORTHWEST TERRITORY MERCHANTS and CARRIERS - - -STEAMERS: - - Portus B. Weare - John Cudahy - C. H. Hamilton - J. J. Healy - T. C. Power - J. C. Barr - Klondike - - -TRADING POSTS: - - Fort Get There - Weare - Healy - Circle City - Fort Cudahy - Dawson - - -Operates Steamships - - between Seattle and Ft. Get There, St. Michael's - Island, and steamboats from Ft. Get There, St. - Michael's Island to all points on the Yukon River. The - only established line running from Seattle to - Klondike. Also operates large, well-stocked stores at - all of the principal mining points in the interior of - Alaska and Northwest Territory on the Yukon River. For - rates and full information of this wonderful mining - country call on or address any of the Company's - offices. - - Steamers leave September 10, 1897, first steamer in - 1898, June 1st, and every two weeks thereafter. - - - =CHICAGO OFFICE ... R. 290 Old Colony Building= - =SEATTLE, WASH., OFFICE ... No. 618 First Avenue= - =SAN FRANCISCO OFFICE ... No. 8 California Street= - - - - -"THE GREATEST GOLD DISTRICT ON EARTH." - - -The Yukon-Cariboo British Columbia Gold Mining Development Company - -[Illustration] - - CAPITAL - $5,000,000 - - Shares ... - $1.00 each. Full Paid--Non Assessable. - - - J. EDWARD ADDICKS, PRESIDENT, CLAYMONT, DELAWARE. - SYLVESTER T. EVERETT, 1ST VICE-PRESIDENT, CLEVELAND. - BENJAMIN BUTTERWORTH, 2D VICE-PRESIDENT, WASHINGTON. - E. F. J. GAYNOR, TREASURER, _Auditor Manhattan R. R., New York City_. - CHARLES H. KITTINGER, SECRETARY, - _66 Broadway, New York City, Harrison Building, Philadelphia_. - - -DIRECTORS. - - HON. JOHN H. McGRAW, Ex-Governor, State of Washington. Vice-President - First National Bank, Seattle. - CAMILLE WEIDENFELD, Banker, 45 Wall Street, New York. - CHARLES E. JUDSON, President Economic Gas Company, Chicago. - HON. BENJAMIN BUTTERWORTH, Com'sioner of Patents, Washington. - HON. JAMES G. SHAW, Manufacturer, New Castle, Delaware. - SYLVESTER T. EVERETT, V-Pres't Cleveland Terminal & Valley R. R., - Cleveland. - CHARLES H. KITTINGER, 66 Broadway, New York, Harrison Building, - Philadelphia. - HON. JOHN LAUGHLIN, Ex-State Senator, New York, Laughlin, Ewell & - Haupt, Attorneys-at-Law, Buffalo. - JULIUS CHAMBERS, Journalist, New York. - GEN. E. M. CARR, of Preston, Carr & Gilman, Attorneys-at-Law, Seattle. - THOMAS W. LAWSON, Banker, 33 State Street, Boston. - GEORGE B. KITTINGER, Mining Engineer, Seattle, Wash. - E. F. J. GAYNOR, Auditor Manhattan Railway Co., New York. - PHILO D. BEARD, Treasurer Queen City Gas Co., Buffalo. - J. M. BUXTON, M. E., Vancouver, British Columbia. - GEORGE A. KELLY, 66 Broadway, New York. - J. EDWARD ADDICKS, Delaware. - - -... THIS COMPANY is formed to explore and develop the GOLD FIELDS of -British Columbia, including the Cariboo District and the Klondike -District at the headwaters of the Yukon River. Shares of its Capital -Stock are offered to the public at par--=$1.00 per share=. The Company -has placed exploring parties in the Gold Regions, and now has its own -Agents in this marvelously rich field. Each party is in charge of mining -engineers, fully equipped for successful discovery and development. - -Prospectus and additional information furnished, and subscriptions to -stock received at office of - - J. EDWARD ADDICKS, Harrison Building, - 1500 Market St., Philadelphia. - -[Illustration: JUNEAU CITY.] - - - - -GOLDEN ALASKA - - - A COMPLETE ACCOUNT TO DATE - OF THE - YUKON VALLEY - - - _ITS HISTORY, GEOGRAPHY, MINERAL AND OTHER - RESOURCES, OPPORTUNITIES AND - MEANS OF ACCESS_ - - - BY - ERNEST INGERSOLL, - (_Formerly with the Hayden Survey in the West_) - - AUTHOR OF - - "KNOCKING 'ROUND THE ROCKIES," "THE CREST OF THE CONTINENT," - ETC., AND GENERAL EDITOR OF RAND, MCNALLY & - CO.'S "GUIDE BOOKS." - - CHICAGO AND NEW YORK: - RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY. - 1897. - - - - -ALASKA. - - -Bullion Safe Gold Mining Company - - CAPITAL ... $1,000,000 - - Shares ... $1.00 each - Full Paid - Non-Assessable - - -Mines on the Yukon. - -Mines on the Blue River. - - This Company owns =160 acres= of Gold-bearing gravel - from five to forty feet thick containing many millions - of value. - - A limited amount of the full paid, non-assessable - shares will be sold at =one dollar= each. - - For prospectus and particulars, address, - - - _W. L. BOYD & CO., 6 WALL STREET, - NEW YORK._ - - Copyright, 1897, by Rand, McNally & Co. - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -To make "a book about the Klondike" so shortly after that word first -burst upon the ears of a surprised world, would be the height of -literary impudence, considering how remote and incommunicado that region -is, were it not the public is intensely curious to know whatever can be -said authentically in regard to it. "The Klondike," it must be -remembered, is, in reality, a very limited district--only one small -river valley in a gold-bearing territory twice as large as New England; -and it came into prominence so recently that there is really little to -tell in respect to it because nothing has had time to happen and be -communicated to the outside world. But in its neighborhood, and far -north and south of it, are other auriferous rivers, creeks and bars, and -mountains filled with untried quartz-ledges, in respect to which -information has been accumulating for some years, and where at any -moment "strikes" may be made that shall equal or eclipse the wealth of -the Klondike placers. It is possible, then, to give here much valuable -information in regard to the Yukon District generally, and this the -writer has attempted to do. The best authority for early exploration and -geography is the monumental work of Capt. W. H. Dall, "Alaska and its -Resources," whose companion, Frederick Whymper, also wrote a narrative -of their adventures. The reports of the United States Coast Survey in -that region, of the exploration of the Upper Yukon by Schwatka and Hayes -of the United States Geological Survey, of Nelson, Turner and others -attached to the Weather Service, of the Governor of the Territory, of -Raymond, Abercrombie, Allen and other army and naval officers who have -explored the coast country and reported to various departments of the -government, and of several individual explorers, especially the late E. -J. Glave, also contain facts of importance for the present compilation. -The most satisfactory sources of information as to the geography, routes -of travel, geology and mineralogy and mining development, are contained -in the investigations conducted some ten years ago by the Canadian -Geological Survey, under the leadership of Dr. G. M. Dawson and of -William Ogilvie. Of these I have made free use, and wish to make an -equally free acknowledgement. - -It will thus be found that the contents of this pamphlet justified even -the hasty publication which the public demands, and which precludes -much attention to literary form; but an additional claim to attention is -the information it seeks to give intending travelers to that far-away -and very new and as yet unfurnished region, how to go and what to take, -and what are the conditions and emergencies which they must prepare to -meet. Undoubtedly the pioneers to the Yukon pictured the difficulties of -the route and the hardships of their life in the highest colors, both to -add to their self-glory and to reduce competition. Moreover, every day -mitigates the hardships and makes easier the travel. Nevertheless, -enough difficulties, dangers and chances of failure remain to make the -going to Alaska a matter for very careful forethought on the part of -every man. To help him weigh the odds and choose wisely, is the purpose -of this little book. - -[Illustration: MAP OF ALASKA.] - - - - -ALASKA. - -Districts, Capes and Points, Islands, Lakes, Mountains, Rivers, and -Towns. - - -Districts. - - Pop. - First, or Southeastern district 8,038 - Second, or Kadiak district 6,112 - Third, or Unalaska district 2,361 - Fourth, or Nushagak district 2,726 - Fifth, or Kuskokwim district 5,424 - Sixth, or Yukon district 3,914 - Seventh, or Arctic district 3,222 - Total 31,795 - - -Capes and Points. - - Addington, C-9. - Alitak, C-5. - Anchor, C-5. - Anxiety, A-6. - Banks, C-5. - Barnabas, C-5. - Barrow, A-4. - Bartolome, C-9. - Becher, A-6. - Beechey, A-6. - Belcher, A-3. - Black, C-5. - Blossom, A-8. - Campbell, B-6. - Chiniak, C-5. - Chitnak, B-1. - Christy, A-4. - Cleare, C-6. - Collie, A-3. - Constantine, C-4. - Cross, C-8. - Current, C-5. - Dall, B-2. - Danby, B-3. - Denbigh, B-3. - Douglas, B-2. - Douglas, C-5. - Dyer, A-2. - Dyer, B-2. - Edward, C-8. - Elizabeth, C-5. - Eroline, C-4. - Espenberg, A-3. - Etolin, B-2. - Fairweather, C-8. - Foggy, C-4. - Franklin, A-3. - Glasenap, C-3. - Grenville, C-5. - Griffin, A-7. - Gulross, B-6. - Halkett, A-5. - Harbor, C-9. - Hinchinbrook, C-6. - Hope, A-2. - Icy, A-3. - Icy, C-8. - Igvak, C-4. - Ikti, C-4. - Ikolik, C-5. - Kahurnoi, C-5. - Kanarak, C-4. - Karluk, C-5. - Kayakliut, C-4. - Khituk, D-8. - Krusenstern, A-3. - Kupreanof, C-4. - Lapin, D-3. - Lay, A-3. - Lazareff, D-3. - Leontovich, C-8. - Lewis, A-2. - Lisburne, A-2. - Low, C-5. - Lowenstern, A-2. - Lutke, D-3. - Manby, C-7. - Manning, A-7. - Martin, A-7. - Martin, C-6. - Menchikof, C-4. - Muzon, D-9. - Narrow, C-5. - Newenham, C-8. - Nome, B-2. - Ocean, C-7. - Ommaney, C-8. - Pankoff, D-3. - Peirce, C-3. - Pellew, B-6. - Pillar, C-5. - Pitt, A-5. - Prince of Wales, A-2. - Providence, C-4. - Puget, C-6. - Resurrection, C-6. - Rodknoff, C-3. - Rodney, B-2. - Romanof, B-3. - Romanzof, B-2. - Saritchey, D-2. - Seniavin, C-3. - Seppings, A-2. - Sitkagi, C-7. - Smith, B-2. - Spencer, A-2. - Spencer, C-8. - St. Augustine, D-9. - St. Elias, C-7. - St. Hermogenes, C-5. - Steep, C-5. - Strogonof, C-4. - Suckling, C-7. - Tangent, A-5. - Thompson, A-2. - Toistoi, B-3. - Tonki, C-5. - Trinity, C-5. - Two Headed, C-5. - Ugat, C-5. - Unalishagvak, C-4. - Uyak, C-5. - Vancouver, B-2. - West, B-1. - Yaktag, C-7. - - -Islands. - - Adakh, A-10. - Admiralty, C-9. - Afognar, C-5. - Agattu, A-8. - Aghiyuk, C-4. - Akun, D-2. - Akutan, D-2. - Aleutian, A-8. - Amak, C-3. - Amaoa, D-3. - Amatiguak, A-9. - Amatuli, C-5. - Amchitka, A-9. - Amlia, A-10. - Amukta, A-10. - Andreanof, A-10. - Andronica, C-4. - Annete, D-9. - Anowik, C-4. - Atka, A-10. - Atkulik, C-4. - Attu, A-8. - Augustine, C-5. - Avantanak, D-2. - Ban, C-5. - Baranof, C-9. - Barren, C-5. - Barter, A-7. - Besboro, B-3. - Big Diomede, A-2. - Big Koniushi, C-4. - Bim, D-3. - Biorha, A-11. - Buldir, A-9. - Chankilut, C-4. - Chernabura, D-3. - Chernobour, D-3. - Chiachi, C-4. - Chichagoi, C-8. - Chirikof, C-4. - Chiswell, C-6. - Chowiet, C-4. - Chugatz, C-5. - Chuginadak, A-10. - Chugul, A-10. - Coronation, C-9. - Dall, D-9. - Deer, D-3. - Dolgoi, C-3. - Douglas, C-9. - Duke, D-9. - Dundas, D-9. - Egg, B-3. - Etolin, C-9. - Flaxman, A-6. - Forrester, D-9. - Gareloi, A-9. - Geese, C-5. - Great Sitkin, A-10. - Green, B-6. - Hagemeister, C-3. - Hall, I-1. - Hassler, C-9. - Hawkin, B-6. - Hazy, C-8. - Hinchinbrook, B-6. - Igitkin, A-10. - Jacob, C-4. - Kadiak, C-5. - Kagalaska, A-10. - Kagamil, A-11. - Kalgin, B-5. - Kanaga, A-9. - Kateekhuk, C-4. - Kavalga, A-9. - Kayak, C-7. - Khoudiakoff, C-3. - Khoudoubine, C-3. - Kigalgin, A-11. - King, B-2. - Kiska, A-9. - Kiukdauk, C-5. - Knights, B-6. - Korovin, C-4. - Kuiu, C-9. - Kupreanof, C-9. - Little Diomede, A-2. - Little Koniushi, C-4. - Little Sitkin, A-9. - Marmot, C-5. - Middleton, C-6. - Mitkof, C-9. - Mitrofania, C-4. - Montagu, C-6. - Nagai, C-4. - Nakchamik, C-4. - Near, A-8. - Nelson, B-3. - North, D-9. - Nunivak, B-2. - Okolnoi, C-3. - Otter, C-2. - Paul, C-4. - Pinnacle, B-1. - Pribilof, C-2. - Prince of Wales, C-9. - Punuk, B-2. - Pye, C-5. - Rat, A-9. - Revillagigedo, C-9. - Sand, B-2. - Sannak, D-3. - Seal, C-4. - Seguam, A-10. - Semichi, A-8. - Semidi, C-4. - Semisopochnoi, A-9. - Shumagin, C-4. - Shuyak, C-5. - Simeonof, D-4. - Sitkalidak, C-5. - Sitkinak, C-5. - Sledge, B-2. - South, C-4. - Spruce, C-5. - St. George, C-2. - St. Lawrence, B-2. - St. Matthew, B-1. - St. Michael, B-3. - St. Paul, C-2. - Stephens, D-9. - Stuart, B-3. - Sutwik, C-4. - Tagalakh, A-10. - Tanaga, A-9. - Tigalda, D-3. - Trinity Is., C-5. - Tugidak, C-5. - Ugamok, D-2. - Ulak, A-9. - Uliaga, A-11. - Umga, D-3. - Umnak, A-11. - Unalaska, D-2. - Unavikshak, C-4. - Unga, C-3. - Unimak, D-3. - Ushugat, C-5. - Walros, C-2. - Wooded Is., C-6. - Wossnessenski, C-3. - Wrangell, C-9. - Wrigham, C-7. - Yakobi, C-8. - Yunaska, A-10. - Zaiembo, C-9. - Zayas, D-9. - - -Lakes. - - Aleknagik, C-3. - Becharof, C-4. - Iliamna, C-5. - Imuruk, B-2. - Mentasta, B-7. - Naknek, C-4. - Nushagak, B-4. - Rat, A-7. - Selawik, A-3. - Skillokh, B-6. - Tasekpuk, A-5. - Tustumena, B-5. - Walker, A-5. - - -Mountains. - - Aghileen Pinnacle, C-3. - Alaskan, B-5. - Asses Ears, A-3. - Black Peak, C-4. - Boundary, A-7. - British, A-7. - Cathul, A-7. - Deviation Peak, A-3. - Devils, A-3. - Four Peaked, C-5. - Franklin, A-6. - Gold, A-5. - Iliamna Peak, B-5. - Jade, A-4. - Kayuh, B-4. - Lionshead, C-9. - Lower Ramparts, A-6. - Makushin, D-2. - Miles Glacier, B-7. - Mt. Becharof, C-4. - Mt. Bendeleben, A-3. - Mt. Blackburn, B-7. - Mt. Chiginagar, C-4. - Mt. Crillon, C-8. - Mt. Drum, B-6. - Mt. Edgecumbe, C-8. - Mt. Fairweather, C-8. - Mt. Greenough, A-7. - Mt. Hononita, B-4. - Mt. Kelly, A-3. - Mt. Kimball, B-7. - Mt. Lituya, C-8. - Mt. Olai, C-4. - Mt. Sanford, B-7. - Mt. Tillman, B-7. - Mt. Wrangel, B-7. - Mulgrave Hills, A-3. - Palisades, A-5. - Pavloff Volcano, C-3. - Progromnia Volcano, D-2. - Rampart, A-5. - Ratzel, A-7. - Red, A-5. - Redoubt Volcano, B-5. - Shishaldin Volcano, C-3. - Snow, A-5. - Spirit, B-7. - Tanana Hills, A-6. - Vsevidoff Volcano, A-11. - Yukon Hills, A-4. - - -Rivers. - - Allenkakat, A-5. - Ambler, A-4. - Anvik, B-3. - Azoon, B-3. - Baczakakat, A-5. - Big Black, A-7. - Black, B-3. - Bradley, B-6. - Bremner, B-6. - Buckland, A-3. - Cantwell, B-6. - Chilkat. - Chisana, B-7. - Chitslechina, B-6. - Chittyna, B-7. - Chittystone, B-7. - Chulitna, B-4. - Colville, A-5. - Copper, B-6. - Cutler, A-4. - Daklikakat, A-4. - Dall, A-5. - Delta, B-6. - Doggetlooscat, A-4. - Dugan, B-6. - Fickett, A-5. - Fish, A-3. - Forty-mile, B-7. - Gakona, B-6. - Gersde, B-6. - Goodpaster, B-6. - Hokuchatna, A-4. - Husstiakatna, A-4. - Ikpikpung, A-5. - Inglixalik, A-4. - Innoko, B-4. - Ippewik, A-3. - Johnson, B-6. - Kaknu, B-5. - Kalucna, B-7. - Kandik, A-7. - Karluk, C-5. - Kashunik, B-3. - Kassilof, B-5. - Kaviavazak, A-3. - Kayuh, B-4. - Kevwleek, A-3. - Kinak, B-3. - Klanarchargat, A-6. - Klatena, B-6. - Klatsutakakat, B-5. - Klawasina, B-6. - Knik, B-6. - Koo, A-4. - Kookpuk, A-3. - Kowak, A-4. - Koyuk, A-3. - Koyukuk, A-5. - Kuahroo, A-4. - Kuguklik, C-3. - Kukpowruk, A-3. - Kulichavak, B-3. - Kuskokwim, B-3. - Kvichak, C-4. - Liebigitag's, B-6. - Little Black, A-7. - Lovene, B-5. - Marokinak, B-3. - Meade, A-4. - Melozikakat, A-5. - Naknek, C-4. - Noatak, A-3. - Nushagak, C-4. - Pitmegea, A-3. - Porcupine, A-7. - Ray, A-5. - Robertson, B-6. - Salmon, A-7. - Selawik, A-4. - Slana, B-6. - Soonkakat, B-4. - Stikine, C-9. - Sucker, A-7. - Sushitna, B-6. - Taclat, B-5. - Tahkandik, A-7. - Tanana, B-6. - Tasnioio, B-6. - Tatotlindu, B-7. - Tazlina, B-6. - Teikhell, B-6. - Traodee, A-7. - Tokai, B-7. - Tovikakat, A-5. - Ugaguk, C-4. - Ugashik, C-4. - Unalaklik, B-4. - Volkmar, B-6. - White, B-7. - Whymper, A-6. - Woliek, A-3. - Yukon, B-3. - - -Towns. - - Pop. - Afognak, C-5 409 - Alaganik, B-6 48 - Anagnak, C-4 - Anvik, B-3 191 - Attanak, A-4 - Attenmut, A-4 - Belkoffski, D-3 185 - Belle Isle, B-8 - Cape Sabine, A-2 - Chilkat, C-8 153 - Douglas, C-9 40 - Dyea[B] - Egowik, B-3 - Fort Alexander, C-4 - Fort Andreafski, B-3 10 - Fort Cudahy, B-8 - Fort Get There, B-3 - Fort Healy, B-5 - Fort Kenai, B-5 - Fort St. Michaels, B-3 101 - Fort Weare, A-7 - Fort Wrangel, C-9[A] 316 - Igagik, C-4 60 - Ikogmut Mission, B-4 140 - Initkilly, A-2 - Jackson, D-9 105 - Juneau, C-9[A] 1253 - Kaguyak, C-5 112 - Kaltig, B-4 - Karluk, C-5 1123 - Katniai, C-4 - Ketchikan, C-9 - Killisnoo, C-9 79 - Kipmak, B-3 - Klawock, C-9 287 - Kodiak, C-5[A] 495 - Koggiung, C-4 133 - Kutlik, B-3 31 - Leather Village, B-4 - Loring, C-9 200 - Mary Island, D-9 - Metlakahtla[B] - Mitchell, A-8 238 - Morzhovoi, D-3 68 - Nig-a-lek, A-6 - Nikolski, A-11 - Nulato, B-4 118 - Nushagak, C-4 268 - Old Morzhovoi, C-3 - Orca, B-6 - Ounalaska, A-11 - Pastolik, B-3 113 - Redoubt Kolmakoff, B-4 - Sandpoint, C-3 - Seward, C-5 - Shageluk, B-3 - Shakan, C-9 - Shaktolik, B-3 - Sitka, C-8[A] 1190 - St. Orlovsk, C-5 - Sutkum, C-4 - Suworof, C-4 - Taku, C-9 - Tikchik, B-4 - Ukak, C-4 - Unalaklik, B-3 175 - Unalaska, D-2 317 - Unga, C-3 159 - Village, C-4 - Wrangel, C-9 - Yakitat, C-8 - - -Addenda. - - Pop. - Weare, B 5 - Circle City, B 7 - Dawson, B 7 - Klondyke River, B 8 - Klondyke District, B 8 - Dyea, C 8 - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote A: Money Order Offices.] - -[Footnote B: Post Offices not located on Map.] - - -[Illustration: [Drawn from a rough sketch made on June 18 by G. W. F. -Johnson at Dawson City.]] - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration: BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SITKA--FROM BARANOFF CASTLE.] - - - - -GOLDEN ALASKA. - - - - -ROUTES TO THE YUKON GOLD-FIELDS. - - -The gold-fields of the Yukon Valley, at and near Klondike River, are -near the eastern boundary of Alaska, from twelve to fifteen hundred -miles up from the mouth of the river, and from five to eight hundred -miles inland by the route across the country from the southern Alaskan -coast. In each case an ocean voyage must be taken as the first step; and -steamers may be taken from San Francisco, Portland, Ore., Seattle, -Wash., or from Victoria, B. C. - -The overland routes to these cities require a word. - -1. To San Francisco. This city is reached directly by half a dozen -routes across the plains and Rocky Mountains, of which the Southern -Pacific, by way of New Orleans and El Paso; the Atchison & Santa Fé and -Atlantic & Pacific by way of Kansas City, and across northern New Mexico -and Arizona; the Burlington, Denver & Rio Grande, by way of Denver and -Salt Lake City; and the Union and Central Pacific, by way of Omaha, -Ogden and Sacramento, are the principal ones. - -2. To Portland, Oregon. This is reached directly by the Union Pacific -and Oregon Short Line, via Omaha and Ogden; and by the Northern Pacific, -via St. Paul and Helena, Montana. - -3. To Seattle, Wash. This city, Tacoma, Port Townsend and other ports on -Puget Sound, are the termini of the Northern Pacific Railroad and also -of the Great Northern Railroad from St. Paul along the northern boundary -of the United States. The Canadian Pacific will also take passengers -there expeditiously by rail or boat from Vancouver, B. C. - -4. To Vancouver and Victoria, B. C. Any of the routes heretofore -mentioned reach Victoria by adding a steamboat journey; but the direct -route, and one of the pleasantest of all the transcontinental routes, is -by the Canadian Pacific Railway from Montreal or Chicago, via Winnipeg, -Manitoba, to the coast at Vancouver, whence a ferry crosses to Victoria. - -Regular routes of transportation to Alaska are supplied by the Pacific -Coast Steamship Company, which has been dispatching mail-steamships once -a fortnight the year round from Tacoma to Sitka, which touch at Juneau -and all other ports of call. They also maintain a service of steamers -between San Francisco and Portland and Puget Sound ports. These are -fitted with every accommodation and luxury for tourist-travel; and an -extra steamer, the Queen, has been making semi-monthly trips during -June, July and August. These steamers would carry 250 passengers -comfortably and the tourist fare for the round trip has been $100. - -The Canadian Pacific Navigation Company has been sending semi-monthly -steamers direct from Victoria to Port Simpson and way stations the year -round. They are fine boats, but smaller than the others and are -permitted to land only at Sitka and Dyea. - -Such are the means of regular communication with Alaskan ports. There -has been no public conveyance north of Sitka, except twice or thrice a -year in summer, in the supply-steamers of the Alaskan commercial -companies, which sailed from San Francisco to St. Michael and there -transferred to small boats up the Yukon. - -Whether any changes will be made in these schedules for the season of -1898 remains to be seen. - -Special steamers.--As the regular accommodations were found totally -inadequate to the demand for passage to Alaska which immediately -followed the report of rich discoveries on Klondike Creek, extra -steamers were hastily provided by the old companies, others are fitted -up and sent out by speculative owners, and some have been privately -chartered. A score or more steamships, loaded with passengers, horses, -mules and burros (donkeys) to an uncomfortable degree, were thus -despatched from San Francisco, Puget Sound and Victoria between the -middle of July and the middle of August. An example of the way the -feverish demand for transportation is found in the case of the -Willamette, a collier, which was cleaned out in a few hours and turned -into an extemporized passenger-boat. The whole 'tween decks space was -filled with rough bunks, wonderfully close together, for "first-class" -passengers; while away down in the hold second-class arrangements were -made which the mind shudders to contemplate. Yet this slave-ship sort of -a chance was eagerly taken, and such space as was left was crowded with -animals and goods. Many persons and parties bought or chartered private -steamers, until the supply of these was exhausted by the end of August. - -Two routes may be chosen to the gold-fields. - -1. By way of the Yukon River. This is all the way by water, and means -nearly 4,500 miles of voyaging. - -2. By way of the seaports of Dyea or Shkagway, over mountain passes, -afoot or a-horseback, and down the upper Yukon River and down the lakes -and rivers by raft, skiff and steamboat. - -[Illustration: GLACIER BAY. STEAMSHIP QUEEN.] - -To describe these routes is the next task--first, that by the way of St. -Michael, and second--up the Yukon River. - -Route, via St. Michael and the Yukon River.--This begins by a -sea-voyage, which may be direct, or along the coast. The special -steamers (and future voyages, no doubt) usually take a direct course -across the North Pacific and through the Aleutian Islands to St. -Michael, in Norton Sound, a bight of Bering Sea. The distance from San -Francisco is given as 2,850 miles; from Victoria or Seattle, about 2,200 -miles. The inside course would be somewhat longer, would follow the -route next to be described as far as Juneau and Sitka, then strike -northwest along the coast to St. Michael. - -This town, on an island near shore in Norton Sound, was established in -1835 by Lieut. Michael Tébenkoff, of the Russian navy, who named it -after his patron saint. Though some distance to the mouth of the Yukon -entrance, St. Michael has always been the controlling center and base of -supplies for the great valley. The North American Trading and -Transportation Company and the Alaska Commercial Company have their -large warehouses here, and provide the miners with tools, clothing and -provisions. Recently the wharf and warehouse accommodations have been -extended, and the population has increased, but if, as is probable, any -considerable number of men are stopped there this fall by the freezing -of the river, and compelled to pass the winter on the island, they will -find it a dreary, if not dangerous experience. - -The vessels supplying this depot can seldom approach the anchorage of -St. Michael before the end of June on account of large bodies of -drifting ice that beset the waters of Norton Sound and the straits -between St. Lawrence and the Yukon Delta. - -A temporary landing-place is built out into water deep enough for loaded -boats drawing five feet to come up at high tide, this is removed when -winter approaches, as otherwise it would be destroyed by ice. The shore -is sandy and affords a moderately sloping beach, on which boats may be -drawn up. A few feet only from high water mark are perpendicular banks -from six to ten feet high, composed of decayed pumice and ashes, covered -with a layer about four feet thick of clay and vegetable matter -resembling peat. This forms a nearly even meadow with numerous pools of -water, which gradually ascends for a mile or so to a low hill, of -volcanic origin, known as the Shaman Mountain. - -Between the point on which St. Michael is built and the mainland, a -small arm of the sea makes in, in which three fathoms may be carried -until the flagstaff of the fort bears west by north, this is the -best-protected anchorage, and has as much water and as good bottom as -can be found much farther out. - -The excitement of the summer of 1897 caused an enlargement of facilities -and the erection of additional buildings, forming a nucleus of traffic -called Fort Get There. Here will be put together in the autumn or winter -at least three, and perhaps more, new river steamboats, of which only -two or three have been running on the lower river during the last two or -three years. These are taken up, in pieces, by ships and fitted together -at this point. All are flat-bottomed, stern-wheeled, powerfully engined -craft, the largest able to carry perhaps 250 tons, such as run on the -upper Missouri, and they will burn wood, the cutting and stacking of -which on the river bank will furnish work to many men during the coming -winter. To such steamers, or smaller boats, all the persons and cargoes -must be transferred at St. Michael. - -For the last few years there has been no trader here but the agent of -the Alaska Commercial Company, and a story is told of the building of a -riverboat there in 1892, which illustrates what life on the Yukon used -to be. In that year a Chicago man, P. B. Weare, resolved to enter the -Alaskan field as a trader. He chartered a schooner, and placed upon it a -steamboat, built in sections and needing only to be put together and -have its machinery set up, and for this purpose he took with him a force -of carpenters and machinists. On reaching St. Michael Weare was refused -permission to land his boat sections on the land of the Commercial -Company's post, and was compelled to make a troublesome landing on the -open beach, where he began operations. Suddenly his ship carpenters -stopped work. They had been offered, it was said, double pay by the -rival concern if they would desist from all work. Weare turned to the -Indians, but with the same ill-success. The Indians were looking out for -their winter grub. Here was the Chicago man 2,500 miles from San -Francisco and only two weeks left to him in which to put his boat -together and then hope for a chance to ascend the river before winter -came on. There was no time in which to get additional men from San -Francisco. In the midst of his trouble Weare one day espied the revenue -cutter Bear steaming into the roadstead. On board of her was Captain -Michael A. Healy. That officer, on going ashore and discovering the -condition of affairs, threatened to hang every carpenter and mechanic -Weare had brought up if they failed to immediately commence work. The -men went to work, and with them went a gang of men from the Bear. The -little steamer was put together in a few days, and the Bear only went to -sea after seeing the P. B. Weare steaming into the mouth of the Yukon. - -[Illustration: STEAMER PORTUS B. WEARE.] - -The Weare was enabled that summer to land her stores along the Yukon, -and was the only vessel available for the early crowds of miners going -to Klondike. - -The mouth of the Yukon is a great delta, surrounded by marsh of -timber--a soaking prairie in summer, a plain of snow and ice in winter. -The shifting bars and shallows face out from this delta far into Bering -Sea, and no channel has yet been discovered whereby an ocean steamer -could enter any of the mouths. Fortunately the northernmost mouth, -nearest St. Michael and 65 miles from it, is navigable for the light -river steamers, and this one, called Aphoon, and marked by its unusual -growth of willows and bushes is well known to the local Russian and -Indian pilots. It is narrow and intricate, and the general course up -stream is south-southeast. Streams and passages enter it, and it has -troublesome tidal currents. The whole space between the mouth is a -net-work, indeed, of narrow channels, through the marshes. - -Kutluck, at the outlet of the Aphoon, on Pastol Bay, is an Indian -village, long celebrated for its manufacture of skin boats (bidars), and -there the old-time voyagers were accustomed to get the only night's -sleep ashore that navigation permits between St. Michael and Andraefski. -On the south bank of the main stream, at the head of the delta, is the -Roman Catholic mission of Kuslivuk; and a few miles higher, just above -the mouth of the Andraefski River, is the abandoned Russian trading -post, Andraefski, above which the river winds past Icogmute, where there -is a Greek Catholic mission. The banks of the river are much wooded, and -the current even as far down as Koserefski averages over three knots an -hour. Above Koserefski (the Catholic Mission station), the course is -along stretches of uninviting country, among marsh islands and -"sloughs," the current growing more and more swift on the long reach -from Auvik, where the Episcopal mission is situated, to Nulato. - -The river here has a nearly north and south course, parallel with the -coast of Norton Sound and within fifty miles or so of it. Two portages -across here form cut-offs in constant use in winter by the traders, -Indians and missionaries. The first of these portages starts from the -mainland opposite the Island of St. Michael, and passes over the range -of hills that defines the shore to the headwaters of the Anvik River. -This journey may be made in winter by sledges and thence down the Auvik -to the Yukon, but it is a hard road. Mr. Nelson, the naturalist, and a -fur trader, spent two months from November 16, 1880, to January 19, -1891, in reaching the Yukon by this path. - -The other portage is that between Unalaklik, a Swedish mission station -at the mouth of the Unalaklik River, some fifty miles north of St. -Michael, and a stream that enters the Yukon half way between Auvik and -Nulato. In going from St. Michael to Unalatlik there are few points at -which a boat can land even in the smoothest weather; in rough weather -only Major's Cove and Kegiktowenk before rounding Tolstoi Point to -Topánika, where there is a trading post. Topánika is some ten miles from -Unalaklik, with a high shelving beach, behind which rise high walls of -sandstone in perpendicular bluffs from twenty to one hundred feet in -height. This beach continues all the way to the Unalaklik River, the -bluff gradually decreasing into a marshy plain at the river's mouth, -which is obstructed by a bar over which at low tide there are only a few -feet of water except in a narrow and tortuous channel, constantly -changing as the river deposits fresh detritus. Inside this bar there are -two or three fathoms for a few miles, but the channel has only a few -feet, most of the summer, from the mouth of the river to Ulukuk. - -Trees commence along the Unalaklik River as soon as the distance from -the coast winds and salt air permit them to grow; willow, poplar, birch -and spruce being those most frequently found. - -The Unalaklik River is followed upward to Ulukuk, where begins a -sledging portage over the marshes to the Ulukuk Hills, where there is a -native village known as Vesolia Sopka, or Cheerful Peak, at an altitude -of eight hundred feet above the surrounding plain. This is a well-known -trapping ground, the fox and marten being very plentiful. From Sopka -Vesolia (Cheerful Peak) it is about one day's journey to Beaver Lake, -which is only a marshy tundra in winter, but is flooded in the spring -and summer months. From the high hills beyond the lake one may catch a -first glimpse of the great Yukon sweeping between its splendid banks. - -[Illustration: OLD RUSSIAN BLOCK HOUSE AT SITKA.] - -The natives call Nulato emphatically a "hungry" place, and it was once -the scene of an atrocious massacre. Capt. Dall, from whose book much of -the information regarding this part of Alaska is derived, describes the -Indians here as a very great nuisance. "They had," he explains, "a -great habit of coming in and sitting down, doing and saying nothing, but -watching everything. At meal times they seemed to count and weigh every -morsel we ate, and were never backward in assisting to dispose of the -remains of the meal. Occasionally we would get desperate and clean them -all out, but they would drop in again and we could do nothing but resign -ourselves." - -The soil on the banks of the Yukon and that of the islands probably -never thaws far below the surface. It is certain that no living roots -are found at a greater depth than three feet. The soil, in layers that -seems to mark annual inundations, consists of a stratum of sand overlaid -by mud and covered with vegetable matter, the layers being from a half -inch to three inches in thickness. In many places where the bank has -been undermined these layers may be counted by the hundred. Low bluffs -of blue sandstone, with here and there a high gravel bank, characterize -the shores as far as Point Sakataloutan, and some distance above this -point begin the quartzose rocks. - -The next station on the river is the village of Nowikakat, on the left -bank. Here may be obtained stores of dried meat and fat from the -Indians. The village is situated upon a beautiful bay or Nowikakat -Harbor, which is connected by a narrow entrance with the Yukon. "Through -this a beautiful view is obtained across the river, through the numerous -islands of the opposite shore, and of the Yukon Mountains in the -distance. The feathery willows and light poplars bend over and are -reflected in the dark water, unmixed as yet with Yukon mud; every island -and hillside is clothed in the delicate green of spring, and luxuriates -in a density of foliage remarkable in such a latitude." - -Nowikakat is specially noted for the excellence of its canoes, of which -the harbor is so full that a boat makes its landing with difficulty -among them. It is the only safe place on the lower Yukon for wintering a -steamer, as it is sheltered from the freshets which bring down great -crushes of ice in the spring. - -At Nuklukahyet there is a mission of the Episcopal church and a trading -store, but there may or may not be supplies of civilized goods, not to -speak of moose meat and fat. This is the neutral ground where all the -tribes meet in the spring to trade. The Tananah, which flows into the -Yukon at this point, is much broader here than the Yukon, and it is here -that Captain Dall exclaims in his diary: "And yet into this noble river -no white man has dipped his paddle." Recently, however, the Tananah has -been more or less explored by prospectors with favorable results -towards the head of the river, which is more easily reached overland -from Circle City and the Birch Creek camps. - -Leaving Nuklukahyet, the "Ramparts" are soon sighted, and the Yukon -rapids sweep between bluffs and hills which rise about fifteen hundred -feet above the river, which is not more than half a mile wide and seems -almost as much underground as a river bed in a canyon. The rocks are -metaphoric quartzites, and the river-bed is crossed by a belt of -granite. The rapid current has worn the granite away at either side, -making two good channels, but in the center lies an island of granite -over which the water plunges at high water, the fall being about twelve -feet in half a mile. - -Beyond the mouth of the Tananah the Yukon begins to widen, and it is -filled with small islands. The mountains disappear, and just beyond them -the Totokakat, or Dall River of Ketchum, enters the Yukon from the -north. Beyond this point the river, ever broadening, passes the "Small -Houses," deserted along the bank at the time, years ago, when the -scarlet fever, brought by a trading vessel to the mouth of the Chilkat, -spread to the Upper Yukon and depopulated the station. This place is -noted for the abundance of its game and fish. - -The banks of the river above this point become very low and flat, the -plain stretching almost unbroken to the Arctic Ocean. - -The next stream which empties into the Yukon is Beaver Creek, and -farther on the prospector bound for Circle City may make his way some -two hundred miles up Birch Creek, along which much gold has already been -discovered, to a portage of six miles, which will carry him within six -miles of Circle City on the west. - -Meanwhile the Yukon passes Porcupine River and Fort Yukon, the old -trading-post founded in 1846-7, about a mile farther up the river than -the present fort is situated. The situation was changed in 1864, owing -to the undermining of the Yukon, which yearly washed away a portion of -the steep bank until the foundation timbers of the old Redoubt over-hung -the flood. - -Many small islands encumber the river from Fort Yukon to Circle City, -and the river flows along the rich lowland to the towns and mining -centers of the new El Dorado, an account of which belongs to a future -chapter. - -This voyage can be made only between the middle of June and the middle -of September, and requires about forty days, at best, from San Francisco -to Circle City or Forty Mile. - -[Illustration: INDIAN TOTEM POLE, FORT SIMPSON.] - -Route via Juneau, the Passes and down the Upper Yukon River. The -second and more usual, because shorter and quicker course, is that to -the head of Lynn Canal (Taiya Inlet) and overland. This coast voyage may -be said to begin at Victoria, B. C. (since all coast steamers gather and -stop there), where a large number of persons prefer to buy their -outfits, since by so doing, and obtaining a certificate of the fact, -they avoid the custom duties exacted at the boundary line on all goods -and equipments brought from the United States. Victoria is well supplied -with stores, and is, besides, one of the most interesting towns on the -Pacific coast. The loveliest place in the whole neighborhood is Beacon -Hill Park, and is well worth a visit by those who find an hour or two on -their hands before the departure of the steamer. It forms a -half-natural, half-cultivated area of the shore of the Straits of Fuca, -where coppices of the beautiful live oak, and many strange trees and -shrubs mingled with the all-pervading evergreens. - -Within three miles of the city, and reached by street cars, is the -principal station in the North Pacific of the British navy, at -Esquimault Bay. This is one of the most picturesque harbors in the -world, and a beginning is made of fortifications upon a very large scale -and of the most modern character. This station, in many respects, is the -most interesting place on the Pacific coast of Canada. - -Leaving Victoria, the steamer makes its way cautiously through the -sinuous channels of the harbor into the waters of Fuca Strait, but this -is soon left behind and the steamer turns this way, and that, at the -entrance to the Gulf of Georgia, among those islands through which runs -the international boundary line, and for the possession of which England -and the United States nearly went to war in 1862. The water at first is -pale and somewhat opaque, for it is the current of the great Fraser -gliding far out upon the surface, and the steamer passes on beyond it -into the darker, clearer, salter waters of the gulf. Then the prow is -headed to Vancouver, where the mails, freight and new railway passengers -are received. - -From Vancouver the steamer crosses to Nanaimo, a large settlement on -Vancouver Island, where coal mines of great importance exist. A railway -now connects this point with Victoria, and a wagon road crosses the -interior of the island to Alberni Canal and the seaport at its entrance -on Barclay Sound. This is the farthest northern telegraph point. The -mines at Nanaimo were exhausted some time ago, after which deep -excavations were made on Newcastle Island, just opposite the town. But -after a tremendous fire these also were abandoned, and all the workings -are now on the shores of Departure Bay, where a colliery village named -Wellington has been built up. A steam ferry connects Nanaimo with -Wellington; and while the steamer takes in its coal, the passengers -disperse in one or the other village, go trout fishing, shooting or -botanizing in the neighboring woods, or trade and chaffer with the -Indians. Nanaimo has anything but the appearance of a mining town. The -houses do not stretch out in the squalid, soot-covered rows familiar to -Pennsylvania, but are scattered picturesquely, and surrounded by -gardens. - -Just ahead lie the splendid hills of Texada Island, whose iron mines -yield ore of extraordinary purity, which is largely shipped to the -United States to be made into steel. The steamer keeps to the left, -making its way through Bayne's Sound, passing Cape Lazaro on the left -and the upper end of Texada on the right, across the broadening water -along the Vancouver shore into Seymour Narrows. These narrows are only -about 900 yards wide, and in them there is an incessant turmoil and -bubbling of currents. This is caused by the collision of the streams -which takes place here; the flood stream from the south, through the -Strait of Fuca and up the Haro Archipelago being met by that from Queen -Charlotte Sound and Johnstone straits. These straits are about 140 -miles long, and by the time their full length is passed, and the maze of -small islands on the right and Vancouver's bulwark on the left are -escaped together, the open Pacific shows itself for an hour or two in -the offing of Queen Charlotte's Sound, and the steamer rises and falls -gently upon long, lazy rollers that have swept all the way from China -and Polynesia. Otherwise the whole voyage is in sheltered waters, and -seasickness is impossible. The steamer's course now hugs the shore, -turning into Fitz Hugh Sound, among Calvert, Hunter's and Bardswell -islands, where the ship's spars sometimes brush the overhanging trees. -Here are the entrances to Burke Channel and Dean's Canal that penetrate -far amid the tremendous cliffs of the mainland mountains. Beyond these -the steamer dashes across the open bight of Milbank Sound only to enter -the long passages behind Princess Royal, Pit and Packer islands, and -coming out at last into Dixon Sound at the extremity of British -Columbia's ragged coast line. - -[Illustration: STREET IN SITKA.] - -The fogs which prevail here are due to the fact that this bight is -filled with the waters of the warm Japanese current and the gulf stream -of the Pacific from which the warm moisture rises to be condensed by the -cool air that descends from the neighboring mountains, into the dense -fogs and heavy rain storms to which the littoral forest owes its -extraordinary luxuriance. During the mid-summer and early autumn, -however, the temperature of air and water become so nearly equable that -fog and rain are the exception rather than the rule. - -Crossing the invisible boundary into Alaska the steamer heads straight -toward Fort Tougass, on Wales Island, once a military station of the -United States, but now only a fishing place. Between this point and Fort -Wrangel another abandoned military post of the United States, two or -three fish canneries and trading stations are visited and the ship goes -on among innumerable islands and along wide reaches of sound to Taku -Inlet (which deeply indents the coast, and is likely in the near future -to become an important route to the gold fields), and a few hours later -Juneau City is reached. - -Juneau City has been lately called the key to the Klondike regions, as -it is the point of departure for the numberless gold hunters who, when -the season opens again, will rush blindly over incalculably rich ledges -near the coast to that remote inland El Dorado of their dreams. - -Juneau has for seventeen years been supported by the gold mines of the -neighboring coast. It is situated ten miles above the entrance of -Gastineau Channel, and lies at the base of precipitous mountains, its -court house, hotels, churches, schools, hospital and opera house forming -the nucleus for a population which in 1893 aggregated 1,500, a number -very largely increased each winter by the miners who gather in from -distant camps. The saloons, of which in 1871 there were already -twenty-two, have increased proportionately, and there are, further, at -least one weekly newspaper, one volunteer fire brigade, a militia -company and a brass band in Juneau. The curio shops on Front and Seward -streets are well worth visiting, and from the top of Seward Street a -path leads up to the Auk village, whose people claim the flats at the -mouth of Gold Creek. A curious cemetery may be seen on the high ground -across the creek, ornamented with totemic carvings and hung with -offerings to departed spirits which no white man dares disturb. - - -FROM JUNEAU TO THE GOLD FIELDS. - -The few persons who formerly wished to go to the head of Lynn Canal did -so mainly by canoeing, or chartered launches, but now many opportunities -are offered by large steamboats. Most of the steamers that bring miners -and prospectors from below do not now discharge their freight at Juneau, -however, but go straight to the new port Dyea at the head of the canal. -Lynn Canal is the grandest fiord on the coast, which it penetrates for -seventy-five miles. It is then divided by a long peninsula called -Seduction Point, into two prongs, the western of which is called Chilkat -Inlet, and the eastern Chilkoot. "It has but few indentations, and the -abrupt palisades of the mainland shores present an unrivalled panorama -of mountains, glaciers and forests, with wonderful cloud effects. Depths -of 430 fathoms have been sounded in the canal, and the continental range -on the east and the White Mountains on the west rise to average heights -of 6,000 feet, with glaciers in every ravine and alcove." No Cameron -boundary line, which Canada would like to establish, would cut this -fiord in two, and make it useless to both countries in case of quarrel. -The magnificent fan-shaped Davidson glacier, here, is only one among -hundreds of grand ice rivers shedding their bergs into its waters. At -various points salmon canneries have long been in operation; and the -Seward City mines are only the best among several mineral locations of -promise. A glance at the map will show that this "canal" forms a -straight continuation of Chatham Strait, making a north and south -passage nearly four hundred miles in length, which is undoubtedly the -trough of a departed glacier. - -Dyea, the new steamer landing and sub-port of entry, is at the head of -navigation on the Chilkoot or eastern branch of this Lynn Canal, and -takes its name, in bad modern spelling, from the long-known Taiya -Inlet, which is a prolongation inland for twenty miles of the head of -the Chilkoot Inlet. It should continue to be spelled Tiaya. This inlet -is far the better of the two for shipping, Chilkat Inlet being exposed -to the prevalent and often dangerous south wind, so that it is regarded -by navigators as one of the most dangerous points on the Alaskan coast. -A Presbyterian mission and government school were formerly sustained at -Haines, on Seduction Point, but were abandoned some years ago on account -of Indian hostility. - -The Passes.--Three passes over the mountains are reached from these two -inlets,--Chilkat, Chilkoot and White. - -[Illustration: HEAD WATERS, DYEA RIVER.] - -Chilkat Pass is that longest known and formerly most in vogue. The -Chilkat Indians had several fixed villages near the head of the inlet, -and were accustomed to go back and forth over the mountains to trade -with the interior Indians, whom they would not allow to come to the -coast. They thus enjoyed not only the monopoly of the business of -carrying supplies over to the Yukon trading posts and bringing out the -furs, and more recently of assisting the miners, but made huge profits -as middle-men between the Indians of the interior and the trading posts -on the coast. They are a sturdy race of mountaineers, and the most -arrogant, treacherous and turbulent of all the northwestern tribes, but -their day is nearly passed. The early explorers--Krause, Everette and -others--took this pass, and it was here that E. J. Glave first tried (in -1891) to take pack horses across the mountains, and succeeded so well as -to show the feasibility of that method of carriage, which put a check -upon the extortion and faithlessness of the Indian carriers. His account -of his adventures in making this experiment, over bogs, wild rocky -heights, snow fields, swift rivers and forest barriers, has been -detailed in The Century Magazine for 1892, and should be read by all -interested. "No matter how important your mission," Mr. Glave wrote, -"your Indian carriers, though they have duly contracted to accompany -you, will delay your departure till it suits their convenience, and any -exhibition of impatience on your part will only remind them of your -utter dependency on them; and then intrigue for increase of pay will at -once begin. While en route they will prolong the journey by camping on -the trail for two or three weeks, tempted by good hunting or fishing. In -a land where the open season is so short, and the ways are so long, such -delay is a tremendous drawback. Often the Indians will carry their loads -some part of the way agreed on, then demand an extravagant increase of -pay or a goodly share of the white man's stores, and, failing to get -either, will fling down their packs and return to their village, leaving -their white employer helplessly stranded." - -The usual charge for Indian carriers is $2 a day and board, and they -demand the best fare and a great deal of it, so that the white man finds -his precious stores largely wasted before reaching his destination. -These facts are mentioned, not because it is now necessary to endure -this extortion and expense, but to show how little dependence can be -placed upon the hope of securing the aid of Indian packers in carrying -the goods of prospectors or explorers elsewhere in the interior, and the -great expense involved. This pass descends to a series of connected -lakes leading down to Lake Labarge and thence by another stream to the -Lewes; and it requires twelve days of pack-carrying--far more than is -necessary on the other passes. As a consequence, this pass is now rarely -used except by Indians going to the Aksekh river and the coast ranges -northward. - -Chilkoot, Taiya or Parrier Pass.--This is the pass that has been used -since 1885 by the miners and others on the upper Yukon, and is still a -route of travel. It starts from the head of canoe navigation on Taiya -inlet, and follows up a stream valley, gradually leading to the divide, -which is only 3,500 feet above the sea. The first day's march is to the -foot of the ascent, and over a terrible trail, through heavy woods and -along a steep, rocky and often boggy hillside, broken by several deep -gullies. The ascent is then very abrupt and over huge masses of fallen -rock or steep slippery surfaces of rock in place. At the actual summit, -which for seven or eight miles is bare of trees or bushes, the trail -leads through a narrow rocky gap, and the whole scene is one of the most -complete desolation. Naked granite rocks, rising steeply to partly -snow-clad mountains on either side. Descending the inland or north slope -is equally bad traveling, largely over wide areas of shattered rocks -where the trail may easily be lost. The further valley contains several -little lakes and leads roughly down to Lake Lindeman. The distance from -Taiya is twenty-three and a half miles, and it is usually made in two -days. Miners sometimes cross this pass in April, choosing fine weather, -and then continue down the lakes on the ice to some point where they can -conveniently camp and wait for the opening of navigation on the Yukon; -ordinarily it is unsafe to attempt a return in the autumn later than the -first of October. - -Lake Lindeman is a long narrow piece of water navigable for boats to its -foot, where a very bad river passage leads into the larger Lake Bennett, -where the navigation of the Yukon really begins. - -"The Chilkoot Pass," writes one of its latest travelers, "is difficult, -even dangerous, to those not possessed of steady nerves. Toward the -summit there is a sheer ascent of 1,000 feet, where a slip would -certainly be fatal. At this point a dense mist overtook us, but we -reached Lake Lindeman--the first of a series of five lakes--in safety, -after a fatiguing tramp of fourteen consecutive hours through -half-melted snow. Here we had to build our own boat, first felling the -timber for the purpose. The journey down the lakes occupied ten days, -four of which were passed in camp on Lake Bennett, during a violent -storm, which raised a heavy sea. The rapids followed. One of these -latter, the "Grand Canyon," is a mile long, and dashes through walls of -rock from 50 to 100 feet high; six miles below are the "White Horse -Rapids," a name which many fatal accidents have converted into the -"Miner's Grave." But snags and rocks are everywhere a fruitful source of -danger on this river, and from this rapid downward scarcely a day passed -that one did not see some cairn or wooden cross marking the last resting -place of some drowned pilgrim to the land of gold. The above is a brief -sketch of the troubles that beset the Alaskan gold prospector--troubles -that, although unknown in the eastern states and Canada, have for -many years past associated the name of Yukon with an ugly sound in -western America." - -[Illustration: RAFT ON LAKE LINDEMAN.] - -It is probable that few if any persons need go over this pass next year, -and its hardships will become a tradition instead of a terrible -prospect. - -White Pass.--This pass lies south of the Chilkoot, and leaves the coast -at the mouth of the Shagway river, five miles south of Dyea and 100 from -Juneau. It was first explored in 1887 and was found to run parallel to -the Chilkoot. The distance from the coast to the summit is seventeen -miles, of which the first five are in level bottom land, thickly -timbered. The next nine miles are in a cańon-like valley, beyond which -three miles, comparatively easy, take one to the summit, the altitude of -which is roughly estimated at 2,600 feet. Beyond the summit a wide -valley is entered and leads gradually to the Tahko arm of Tahgish lake. -This pass, though requiring a longer carriage, is lower and easier than -the others, and already a pack-trail has been built through it which -will soon be followed by a wagon road, and surveys for a narrow gauge -railway are in progress. At the mouth of the Shkagway River ocean -steamers can run up at all times to a wharf which has been constructed -in a sheltered position, and there is an excellent town site with -protection from storms. - -An English company, the British Columbia Development Association, -Limited, has already established a landing wharf and is erecting a wharf -and sawmills at Skagway, whence it is proposed (as soon as feasible) to -lay down a line of rail some thirty-five miles long, striking the Yukon -River at a branch of the Marsh Lake, about 100 miles below Lake -Lindeman. By this means the tedious and difficult navigation between -these two points will be avoided, and the only dangerous parts of the -river below will be circumvented by a road or rail portage. -Light-draught steamers will be put on from Teslin Lake to the cańon and -from the foot of the latter to all the towns and camps on the river. - -Dyea is a village of cabins and tents, and little if anything in the way -of supplies can be got there; it is a mere forwarding point. - -Pending the completion of the facilities mentioned above, miners may -transport their goods over the pack trail on their own or hired burros, -and at Tahgish Lake take a boat down the Tahco arm (11 miles) to the -main lake, and down that lake and its outlet into Lake Marsh. This chain -of lakes, filling the troughs of old glacial fiords to a level of 2,150 -feet above the sea, "constitutes a singularly picturesque region, -abounding in striking points of view and in landscapes pleasing in their -variety or grand and impressive in this combination of rugged mountain -forms." All afford still-water navigation, and as soon as the road -through White Pass permits the transportation of machinery, they will -doubtless be well supplied with steamboats. Marsh Lake is 20 miles long, -Bennett 26, and Tagish 16˝ miles, with Windy Arm 11 miles long, Tahko -Arm 20 miles, and other long, narrow extensions among the terraced, -evergreen-wooded hills that border its tranquil surface. The depression -in which this group of lakes lies is between the coast range and the -main range of the Rockies; and as it is sheltered from the wet sea-winds -by the former heights, its climate is nearly as dry of that of the -interior. The banks are fairly well timbered, though large open spaces -exist, and abound in herbage, grass and edible berries. Lake Marsh, -named by Schwatka after Prof. O. C. Marsh of Yale, but called Mud Lake -by the miners, without good reason, is twenty miles long and about two -wide. It is rather shallow and the left bank should be followed. The -surrounding region is rather low, rising by terraces to high ranges on -each side, where Michie mountain, 5,540 feet in height, eastward, and -Mounts Lorue and Landsdowne, westward, 6,400 and 6,140 feet high -respectively, are the most prominent peaks. "The diversified form of the -mountains in view from this lake render it particularly picturesque," -remarks Dr. Dawson, "and at the time of our visit, on the 10th and 11th -of September, the autumn tints of the aspens and other deciduous trees -and shrubs, mingled with the sombre greens of the spruces and pines, -added to its beauty." - -Near the foot of this lake enters the McClintock river, of which little -is known. The outlet is a clear, narrow, quiet stream, called Fifty-mile -River, which flows somewhat westerly down the great valley. Large -numbers of dead and dying salmon are always seen here in summer, and as -these fish never reach Lake Marsh, it is evident that the few who are -able, after their long journey, to struggle up the rapids, have not -strength left to survive. - -[Illustration: DOG PACK TRAIN.] - -The descent of the Lewes (or Yukon) may be said to begin at this point, -and 23 miles below Lake Marsh the first and most serious obstacle is -encountered in the White Horse Rapids, and Miles Cańon. Their length -together is 2ž miles, and they seem to have been caused by a small -local effusion of lava, which was most unfortunately ejected right in -the path of the river. The cańon is often not more than 100 feet in -width, and although parts of it may be run at favorable times, all of it -is dangerous, and the White Horse should never be attempted. The portage -path in the upper part of the cańon is on the east bank, and is about -five-eighths of a mile long. There a stretch of navigation is -possible, with caution, ending at the head of White Horse Rapids, where -one must land on the west bank, which consists of steep rocks, very -awkward for managing a boat from or carrying a burden over. Usually the -empty boat can be dropped down with a line, but when the water is high -boat as well as cargo must be carried for 100 yards or more, and again, -lower down, for a less distance. The miners have put down rollways along -a roughly constructed road here to make the portage of the boats easier, -and some windlasses for hauling the boats along the water or out and -into it. It would be possible to build a good road or tramway along the -east bank of these rapids without great difficulty; and plans are -already formulated for a railway to be built around the whole three -miles of obstruction, in the summer of 1898, to connect with the -steamboats above and below that will no doubt be running next year. - -The river below the rapids is fast (about four miles an hour) for a few -miles, and many gravel banks appear. It gradually subsides, however, -into a quiet stream flowing northwest along the same wide valley. No -rock is seen here, the banks being bluffs of white silt, which turns the -clear blue of the current above into a cloudy and opaque yellow. -Thirteen miles (measuring, as usual, along the river) brings the voyager -to the mouth of the Tah-Keena, a turbid stream about 75 yards wide and -10 feet deep, which comes in from the west. Its sources are at the foot -of the Chilkat Pass, where it flows out of West Kussoa lake (afterwards -named Lake Arkell), and was formerly much employed by the Chilkat -Indians as a means of reaching the interior, but was never in favor with -the miners, and is now rarely followed by the Indians themselves, -although its navigation from the lake down is reported to be easy. - -Eleven and a half miles of quiet boating takes one to the head of Lake -Labarge. This lake is 31 miles long, lies nearly north and south, and is -irregularly elongated, reaching a width of six miles near the lower end. -It is 2,100 feet above sea level and is bordered everywhere by -mountains, those on the south having remarkably abrupt and castellated -forms and carrying summits of white limestone. This lake is a very -stormy one, and travelers often have to wait in camp for several days on -its shores until calmer weather permits them to go on. This whole river -valley is a great trough sucking inland the prevailing southerly summer -winds, and navigation on all the lakes is likely to be rough for small -boats. - -The river below Lake Labarge is crooked, and at first rapid--six miles -or more an hour, and interrupted by boulders; but it is believed that a -stern wheel steamer of proper power could ascend at all times. The banks -are earthen, but little worn, as floods do not seem to occur. -Twenty-seven miles takes one to the mouth of a large tributary from the -southeast,--the Teslintoo, which Schwatka called Newberry River, and -which the miners mistakenly call Hotalinqu. It comes from the great Lake -Teslin, which lies across the British Columbia boundary (Lat. 62 deg.), -and is said to be 100 miles long; and it is further said that an Indian -trail connects it with the head of canoe navigation on the Taku river, -by only two long days of portaging. Some miners are said to have gone -over it in 1876 or '77, Schwatka and Hayes came this way; and it may -form one of the routes of the future,--perhaps even a railway route. -This river flows through a wide and somewhat arid valley, and was -roughly prospected about 1887 by men who reported finding fine gold all -along its course, and also in tributaries of the lake. As the mountains -about the head of the lake belong to the Cassiar range, upon whose -southern slopes the Cassiar mines are situated, there is every reason to -suppose that gold will ultimately be found there in paying quantities. - -This part of the Lewes is called Thirty-mile River, under the impression -that it is really a tributary of the Teslintoo, which is, in fact, wider -than the Lewes at the junction (Teslintoo, width 575 feet; Lewes, 420 -feet), but it carries far less water. From this confluence the course is -north, in a deep, swift, somewhat turbid current, through the crooked -defiles of the Seminow hills. Several auriferous bars have been worked -here, and some shore-placers, including the rich Cassiar bar. Thirty-one -miles below the Teslintoo the Big Salmon, or D'Abbadie River, enters -from the southeast--an important river, 350 feet wide, having clear blue -water flowing deep and quiet in a stream navigable by steamboats for -many miles. Its head is about 150 miles away, not far from Teslin Lake, -in some small lakes reached by the salmon, and surrounded by granite -mountains. Prospectors have traced all its course and found fine gold in -many places. - -[Illustration: DAVIDSON GLACIER. CHILKAT INLET.] - -Thirty-four miles below the Big Salmon, west-north-west, along a -comparatively straight course, carries the boatman to the Little Salmon, -or Daly River, where the valley is so broad that no mountains are -anywhere in sight, only lines of low hills at a distance from the banks. -Five miles below this river the river makes an abrupt turn to the -southwest around Eagle's Nest rock, and 18˝ miles beyond that -reaches the Nordenskiold, a small, swift, clear-watered tributary from -the southwest. The rocks of all this part of the river show thin seams -of coal, and gold has been found on several bars. The current now flows -nearly due north and a dozen miles below the Nordenskiold carries one to -the second and last serious obstruction to navigation in the Rink -rapids, as Schwatka called them, or Five-finger, as they are popularly -known, referring to five large masses of rock that stand like towers in -mid channel. These other islands back up the water and render its -currents strong and turbulent, but will offer little opposition to a -good steamboat. Boatmen descending the river are advised to hug the -right bank, and a landing should be made twenty yards above the rapids -in any eddy, where a heavily loaded boats should be lightened. The run -should be made close along the shore, and all bad water ends when the -Little Rink Rapids have been passed, six miles below. Just below the -rapids the small Tatshun River comes in from the right. Then the valley -broadens out, the current quiets down and a pleasing landscape greets -the eye as bend after bend is turned. A long washed bank on the -northeast side is called Hoo-che-koo Bluff, and soon after passing it -one finds himself in the midst of the pretty Ingersoll archipelago, -where the river widens out and wanders among hundreds of islets. -Fifty-five miles by the river below Rink Rapids, the confluence of the -Lewes and Pelly is reached, and the first sign of civilization in the -ruins of old Fort Selkirk, with such recent and probably temporary -occupation as circumstances may cause. Before long, undoubtedly, a -flourishing permanent settlement will grow up in this favorable -situation. - -The confluence here of the Lewes and Pelly rivers forms the Yukon, which -thenceforth pursues an uninterrupted course of 1,650 miles to Behring -Sea. The country about the confluence is low, with extensive terrace -flats running back to the bases of rounded hills and ridges. The Yukon -below the junction averages about one-quarter of a mile in width, and -has an average depth of about 10 feet, with a surface velocity of 4ž -miles an hour. A good many gravel bars occur, but no shifting sand. The -general course nearly to White River, 96 miles, is a little north of -west, and many islands are seen; then the river turns to a nearly due -north course, maintained at Fort Reliance. The White River is a powerful -stream, plunging down loaded with silt, over ever shifting sand bars. -Its upper source is problematical, but is probably in the Alaskan -Mountains near the head of the Tenana and Forty-mile Creek. - -For the next ten miles the river spreads out to more than a mile wide -and becomes a maze of islands and bars, the main channel being along the -western shore, where there is plenty of water. This brings one to -Stewart river, which is the most important right-hand tributary between -the Pelly and the Porcupine. It enters from the east in the middle of a -wide valley, and half a mile above its mouth is 200 yards in width; the -current is slow and the water dark colored. It has been followed to its -headquarters in the main range of the Rockies, and several large -branches, on some of which there are remarkable falls, have been traced -to their sources through the forested and snowy hills where they rise. -These sources are perhaps 200 miles from the mouth, but as none of the -wanderers were equipped with either geographical knowledge or -instruments nothing definite is known. Reports of traces of precious -metals have been brought back from many points in the Stewart valley, -but this information is as vague as the other thus far. All reports -agree that a light draught steamboat could go to the head of the Stewart -and bar up its feeders. There is a trading post at its mouth. - -[Illustration: VIEW FROM INDIAN CHURCH, LOOKING NORTHEAST.] - -The succeeding 125 miles holds what is at present the most interesting -and populous part of the Yukon valley. The river varies from half to -three-quarters of a mile wide and is full of islands. About 23 miles -below Stewart River a large stream enters from the west called -Sixty-mile Creek by the miners, who have had a small winter camp and -trading store there for some years, and have explored its course for -gold to its rise in the mountains west of the international boundary. -Every little tributary has been named, among them (going up), Charley's -Fork, Edwards Creek and Hawley Creek, in Canada, and then, on the -American side of the line, Gold Creek, Miller Creek and Bed Rock Creek. -The sand and gravel of all these have yielded fine gold and some of -them, as Miller Creek, have become noted for their richness. Forty-four -miles below Sixty-mile takes one to Dawson City, at the mouth of -Klondike River,--the center of the highest productiveness and greatest -excitement during 1897, when the gold fields of the interior of Alaska -first attracted the attention of the world. Leaving to another special -chapter an account of them, the itinerary may be completed by saying -that 6˝ miles below the mouth of the Klondike is Fort Reliance, an -old private trading post of no present importance. Twelve and a half -miles farther the Chan-din-du River enters from the east, and 33˝ -below that in the mouth of Forty-mile Creek, or Cone Hill River, which -until the past year was the most important mining region of the -interior. It took its name from the supposition that it was 40 miles -from Fort Reliance, but the true distance is 46 miles. On the south side -of the outlet of this stream is the old trading post and modern town of -Forty-Mile, and on the north side the more recent settlement Cudahy. -Both towns are, of course, on the western bank of the Yukon, which is -here about half a mile wide. Five miles below Cudahy, Coal Creek comes -in from the east, and nearly marks the Alaskan boundary, where a -narrowed part of the river admits one to United States territory. -Prominent landmarks here are two great rocks, named by old timers Old -Man rock, on the west bank, and Old Woman, on the east bank, in -reference to Indian legends attached to them. Some twenty miles west of -the boundary--the river now having turned nearly due west in its general -course--Seventy-mile, or Klevande Creek, comes in from the south, and -somewhat below it the Tat-on-duc from the north. It was ascended in 1887 -by Mr. Ogilvie, who describes its lower valley as broad and well -timbered, but its upper part flows through a series of magnificent -cańons, one of which half a mile long, is not more than 50 feet wide -with vertical walls fully 700 feet in height. There are said to be warm -sulphur springs along its course, and the Indians regard it as one of -the best hunting fields, sheep being especially numerous on the -mountains in which it heads, close by the international boundary, where -it is separated by only a narrow divide from Ogilvie River, one of the -head streams of the Peel river, and also from the head of the Porcupine, -to which there is an Indian trail. Hence the miners call this Sheep -River. The rocks along this stream are all sandstones, limestone and -conglomerates, with many thin calcite veins. Large and dense timber -prevails, and game is abundant. - -Below the mouth of the Tat-on-duc several small streams enter, of which -the Kandik on the north and the Kolto or Charley's River--at the mouth -of which there used to be the home of an old Indian notability named -Charley--are most important. About 160 miles from the boundary the Yukon -flats are reached, and the center of another important mining -district--that of Birch Creek and the Upper Tenana--at Circle City, the -usual terminus of the trip up the Lower Yukon from St. Michael. - - - - -HISTORY AND CHARACTERISTICS OF THE UPPER YUKON VALLEY. - - -The sources of the Yukon are just within the northern boundary of -British Columbia (Lat. 62 deg.) among a mass of mountains forming a part -of the great uplift of the Coast range, continuous with the Sierras of -California and the Puget Sound coast. Here spring the sources of the -Stikeen, flowing southwest to the Pacific, of the Fraser, flowing south -through British Columbia, and of the Liard flowing northeasterly to the -Mackenzie. Headwaters of the Stikeen and Liard interlock, indeed, along -an extensive or sinuous watershed having an elevation of 3,000 feet or -less and extending east and west. There are, however, many wide and -comparatively level bottom lands scattered throughout this region and -numerous lakes. The coast ranges here have an average width of about -eighty miles and border the continent as far north as Lynn Canal, where -they trend inland behind the St. Elias Alps. Many of their peaks exceed -8,000 feet in height, but few districts have been explored west. -Eastward of this mountain axis, and separated from it by the valleys of -the Fraser and Columbia in the south and the Yukon northward, is the -Continental Divide, or Rocky Mountains proper, which is broken through -(as noted above) by the Laird, but north of that cańon-bound river forms -the watershed between the Liard and Yukon and between the Yukon and -Mackenzie. These summits attain a height of 7,000 to 9,000 feet, and -rise from a very complicated series of ranges extending northward to the -Arctic Ocean, and very little explored. The valley of the Yukon, then, -lies between the Rocky Mountains, separating its drainage basin from -that of the Mackenzie, and the Coast range and St. Elias Alps separating -it from the sea. Granite is the principal rock in both these great lines -of watershed-uplift, and all the mountains show the effects of an -extensive glaciation, and all the higher peaks still bear local remnants -of the ancient ice-sheet. - -The headwaters of the great river are gathered into three principal -streams. First, the Lewes, easternmost, with its large tributaries, the -Teslintoo and Big Salmon; second, the Pelly, with its great western -tributary, the MacMillon. - -[Illustration: SCENE IN JUNEAU--MOUNTAINS AND INDIAN HOUSES.] - -The Lewes River has been described. It was known to the fur traders as -early as 1840, and the Chilkat and Chilkoot passes were occasionally -used by their Indian couriers from that time on. The gold fields in -British Columbia from 1863 onwards stimulated prospecting in the -northern and coastal parts of that province, and in 1872 prospectors -reached the actual headwaters of the Lewes from the south, but were -probably not aware of it; and that country was not scientifically -examined until the reconnaissance of Dr. G. M. Dawson in 1887. In 1866 -Ketchum and La Barge, of the Western Union Telegraph survey, ascended -the Lewes as far as the lakes still called Ketchum and La Barge. In 1883 -Lieut. Frederick Schwatka, U. S. A., and an assistant named Hayes, and -several Indians, made their way across from Taka inlet to the head of -Tahgish (a Tako) Lake, and descended the Lewes on a raft to Fort -Selkirk, studying and naming the valley. From Fort Selkirk an entirely -new route was followed toward the mountains forming the divide between -the Yukon and the White and Copper rivers, which flow to the Gulf of -Alaska, north of Mt. St. Elias. After discovering a pass little more -than 5,000 feet high, they struck the Chityna River and followed that to -the Copper River and thence to the coast. The Copper River Valley was -thoroughly explored somewhat later by Lieuts. Abercrombie and Allen, U. -S. A., who added greatly to knowledge of that large river, which, -however, seems to have no good harbor at its mouth. The miners began to -use the Chilkoot Pass and the Lewes River route to the Yukon district -in 1884. Some additions were made to geography in this region by an -exploring expedition despatched to Alaska in 1890 by Frank Leslie's -Weekly, under Messrs. A. J. Wells, E. J. Glave and A. B. Schanz. They -entered by way of Chilkat pass and came to a large lake at the head of -the Tah-keena tributary of the Lewes, which they named Lake Arkell, -though it was probably the same earlier described by the Drs. Krause. -Here Mr. Glave left the party and striking across the coast range -southward discovered the headwaters of the Alsekh and descended to Dry -Bay. At Forty-mile creek Mr. Wells and a party crossed over into the -basin of the Tanana and increased the knowledge of that river. Mr. -Schanz went down the Yukon and explored the lower region. In 1892 Mr. -Glave again went to Alaska, demonstrated the possibility of taking pack -horses over the Chilkat trail, and with an aid named Dalton made an -extensive journey southward along the crest of the watershed between the -Yukon valley and the coast. - -Turning now to the Pelly, we find that this was the earliest avenue of -discovery. The Pelly rises in lakes under the 62nd parallel, just over a -divide from the Finlayson and Frances Lake, the head of the Frances -River, the northern source of the Liard, and this region was entered by -the Hudson Bay Company as early as 1834, and gradually exploring the -Laird River and its tributaries, in 1840 Robert Campbell crossed over -the divide north of Lake Finlayson (at the head of the Frances), and -discovered (at a place called Pelly Banks) a large river flowing -northwest which he named Pelly. In 1843 he descended the river to its -confluence with the Lewes (which he then named), and in 1848 he built a -post for the H. B. Company at that point, calling it Fort Selkirk. This -done, in 1850, Campbell floated down the river as far as the mouth of -the Porcupine, where three years previously (1847) Fort Yukon had been -established by Mr. Murray, who (founded by James Bell in 1842) crossed -over from the mouth of the Mackenzie. The Yukon may thus be said to have -been "discovered" at several points independently. The Russians, who -knew it only at the mouth, called it Kwikhpak, after an Eskimo name. The -English at Fort Yukon, learned that name from the Indians there, and the -upper river was the Pelly. The English and Russian traders soon met, and -when Campbell came down in 1850 the identity of the whole stream was -established. The name Yukon gradually took the place of all others on -English maps and is now recognized for the whole stream from the -junction of the Lewes and Pelly to the delta. - -The Yukon basin, east of the Alaskan boundary, is known in Canada as the -Yukon district, and contains about 150,000 square miles. This is nearly -equal to the area of France, is greater than that of the United Kingdom -of Great Britain and Ireland by 71,000 square miles, and nearly three -times bigger than that of the New England states. To this must be added -an area of about 180,000 square miles, west of the boundary, drained by -the Yukon upon its way to the sea through Alaska. Nevertheless, Dr. G. -M. Dawson and other students of the matter are of the opinion that the -river does not discharge as much water as does the Mackenzie--nor could -it be expected to do so, since the drainage area of the Mackenzie is -more than double that of the Yukon, while the average annual -precipitation of rain over the two areas seems to be substantially -similar. Remembering these figures and that the basin of the Mississippi -has no less than 1,225,000 square miles as compared with the 330,000 -square miles of the Yukon basin, it is plain that the statement often -heard that the Yukon is next to the Mississippi in size, is greatly -exaggerated. In fact, its proportions, from all points of view, are -exceeded by those of the Nile, Ganges, St. Lawrence and several other -rivers of considerably less importance than the Mississippi. - -[Illustration: EARLY MORNING AT JUNEAU.] - -Resuming the historical outline, a short paragraph will suffice to -complete the simple story down to the year 1896. - -Robert Campbell had scarcely returned from his river voyage to his -duties at Fort Selkirk, when he discovered that its location in the -angle between the rivers was untenable, owing to ice-jams and floods. -The station was therefore moved, in the season of 1852 across to the -west bank of the Yukon, a short distance below the confluence, and new -buildings were erected. These had scarcely been completed, when, on -August 1st, a band of Chilkat Indians from the coast came down the river -and early in the morning seized upon the post, surprising Mr. Campbell -in bed, and ordered him to take his departure before night. They were -not at all rough with him or his few men, but simply insisted that they -depart, which they did, taking such personal luggage as they could put -into a boat and starting down stream. The Indians then pillaged the -place, and after feasting on all they could eat and appropriating what -they could carry away, set fire to the remainder and burned the whole -place to the ground. One chimney still stands to mark the spot, and -others lie where they fell. This act was not dictated by wanton -destructiveness on the part of the Chilkats--bad as they undoubtedly -were and are; but was in pursuance of a theory. The establishment of -the post there interfered with the monopoly of trade that they had -enjoyed theretofore, with all the Indians of the interior, to whom they -brought salable goods from the coast, taking in exchange furs, copper, -etc., at an exorbitant profit, which they enforced by their superior -brutality. The Hudson Bay Company was robbing them of this, hence the -demolition of the post, which was too remote to be profitably sustained -against such opposition. - -A little way down the river, Mr. Campbell met a fleet of boats bringing -up his season's goods, and many friendly Indians. These were eager to -pursue the robbers, but Campbell thought it best not to do so. He turned -the supply-boats back to Fort Yukon and led his own men up the Pelly and -over the pass to the Frances and so down the Liard to Fort Simpson, on -the Mackenzie. Such is the story of the ruins of Fort Selkirk. Fort -Yukon flourished as the only trading post until the purchase of Alaska -by the United States, when Captain Raymond, an army officer, was sent to -inform the factor there that his post was on United States territory, -and require him to leave. He did so as soon as Rampart House could be -built to take its place up the Porcupine. Old Fort Yukon then fell into -ruins, and Rampart House itself was soon abandoned. In 1873 an -opposition appeared in the independent trading house of Harper & -McQuestion, men who had come into the country from the south, after long -experience in the fur trade. They had posts at various points, occupied -Fort Reliance for several years, and in 1886 established a post at the -mouth of the Stewart River for the miners who had begun to gather there -two years before. Many maps mark "Reed's House" as a point on the upper -Stewart, but no such a trading-post ever existed there, although there -was a fishing station and shelter-hut on one of its upper branches at an -early day. This firm became the representatives of the Alaska Commercial -Company (a San Francisco corporation) and opened a store in 1887 at -Forty Mile, where they still do business. - -Gold Discoveries.--The presence of fine float gold in river sands was -early discovered by the Hudson Bay Company men, but in accordance with -the former policy of that company, no mining was done and as little said -about it as possible. The richness of the Cassiar mines led to some -prospecting northward as early as 1872, and by 1880 wandering gold -hunters had penetrated to the Testintos, where for several years $8 to -$10 a day of fine gold was sluiced out during the season by the small -colony. In 1886 Cassiar Bar, on the Lewes, below there, was opened, and -a party of four took out $6,000 in 30 days, while other neighboring -bars yielded fair wages. By that time Stewart River was becoming -attractive, and many miners worked placers there profitably in 1885, '86 -and '87. During the fall of 1886 three or four men took the engines out -of the little steamboat "New Racket," which was laid up for the winter -there, and used them to drive a set of pumps lifting water into -sluice-boxes; and with this crude machinery each man cleared $1,000 in -less than a month. A judicious estimate is, that the Stewart River -placers yielded $100,000 in 1885 and '86. - -[Illustration: HARBOR OF SITKA.] - -Prospecting went on unremittingly, but nothing else was found of promise -until 1886, when coarse gold was reported upon Forty Mile Creek, or the -Shitando River, as it was known to the Indians, and a local rush took -place to its cańons, the principal attraction being Franklin Gulch, -named after its discoverer. Three or four hundred men gathered there by -the season of 1887, and all did well. This stream is a "bed-rock" -creek,--that is, one in the bed of which there is very little drift; and -in many places the bed-rock was scraped with knives to get the little -loose stuff out of crannies. Some nuggets were found. At its mouth are -extensive bars along the Yukon, which carry gold throughout their depth. -During 1888 the season was very unfavorable and not much -accomplished. Sixty Mile Creek was brought to notice, and Miller Gulch -proved richer than usual. It is one of the headwaters of Sixty Mile, and -some 70 miles from the mouth of the river where, in 1892, a trading -store, saw-mill and little wintering-town was begun. Miller Creek is -about 7 miles long, and its valley is filled with vast deposits of -auriferous drift. In 1892 rich strikes were made and 125 miners gathered -there, paying $10 a day for help, and many making fortunes. One clean-up -of 1,100 ounces was reported. Glacier Creek, a neighboring stream, -exhibited equal chances and drew many claimants, some of whom migrated -thither in mid-winter, drawing their sleds through the woods and rocks -with the mercury 30 degrees below zero. All of these gulches and other -golden headwaters on both Forty Mile and Sixty Mile Creek, are west of -the boundary in Alaska; but the mouths of the main streams and supply -points are in Canadian territory. In all, the great obstacle is the -difficulty of getting water up on the bars without expensive machinery; -and the same is true of the rich gravel along the banks of the Yukon -itself. Birch Creek was the next find of importance, and was promising -enough to draw the larger part of the local population, which by this -time had been considerably increased, for the news of the richness of -the Forty Mile gulches had reached the outside world and attracted -adventurous men and not a few women from the coast not only, but from -British Columbia and the United States. A rival to Harper & McQuestion, -agents of the Alaska Commercial Company, appeared in the North American -Transportation and Trading Company, which increased the transportation -service on the Yukon River, by which most of the new arrivals entered, -and by establishing large competitive stores at Fort Cudahy (Forty Mile) -and elsewhere reduced the price of food and other necessaries. About -this time, also, the Canadian government sent law officers and a -detachment of mounted police, so that the Yukon District began to take a -recognized place in the world. - -Birch Creek is really a large river rising in the Iauana Hills, just -west of the boundary and flowing northwest, parallel with the Yukon, to -a debouchment some 20 miles west of Fort Yukon. Between the two rivers -lie the "Yukon Flats," and at one point they are separated by only six -miles. Here, at the Yukon end of the road arose Circle City, so-called -from its proximity to the Arctic Circle. This is an orderly little town -of regular streets, and has a recorder of claims, a store, etc. - -Birch Creek has been thoroughly explored, and in 1894 yielded good -results. The gold was in coarse flakes and nuggets, so that $40 a day -was made by some men, while all did well. The drift is not as deep here -as in most other streams, and water can be applied more easily and -copiously,--a vast advantage. Molymute, Crooked, Independence, Mastadon -and Preacher creeks are the most noteworthy tributaries of this rich -field. - -The Koyukuk River, which flows from the borders of the Arctic Ocean, -gathering many mountain tributaries, to enter the Yukon at Nulato, was -also prospected in 1892, '93 and '94, and indications of good placers -have been discovered there, but the northerly, exposed and remote -situation has caused them to receive little attention thus far. - - - - -THE KLONDIKE. - - -During the autumn of 1896 several men and women, none of whom were "old -miners," discouraged by poor results lower down the river resolved to -try prospecting in the Klondike gulch. They were laughed at and argued -with; were told that prospectors years ago had been all over that -valley, and found only the despised "flour gold," which was too fine to -pay for washing it out. Nevertheless they persisted and went at work. -Only a short time elapsed, when, on one of the lower southside branches -of the stream they found pockets of flakes and nuggets of gold far -richer than anything Alaska had ever shown before. They named the stream -Bonanza, and a small tributary El Dorado. Others came and nearly -everyone succeeded. Before spring nearly a ton and a half of gold had -been taken from the frozen ground. Nuggets weighing a pound (troy) were -found. A thousand dollars a day was sometimes saved despite the rudeness -of the methods, but these things happened where pockets were struck. -Probably the total clean-up from January to June was not less than -$1,500,000. The report spread and all those in the interior of Alaska -concentrated there, where a "camp" of tents and shanties soon sprang up -at the mouth of the Klondike called Dawson City. A correspondent of the -New York Sun describes it as beautifully situated, and a very quiet, -orderly town, due to the strict supervision of the Canadian mounted -police, who allowed no pistols to be carried, but a great place for -gambling with high stakes. It bids fair to become the mining metropolis -of the northwest, and had about 3,000 inhabitants before the -advance-guard of the present "rush" reached there. - -[Illustration: FIVE FINGER RAPIDS, YUKON RIVER.] - -Hundreds of claims were staked out and worked in all the little gulches -opening along Bonanza, Eldorado, Hunker, Bear and other tributaries of -the Klondike, and of Indian River, a stream thirty miles south of it, -and a greater number seem to be of equal richness with those first -worked. All this is within a radius south and east of 20 miles from -Dawson City, and most of it far nearer. The country is rough, wooded -hills, and the same trouble as to water is met there as elsewhere, yet -riches were obtained by many men in a few weeks without exhausting their -claims. - -So remote and shut in has this region been in the winter that no word of -this leaked out until the river opened and a party of successful miners -came down to the coast and took passage on the steamer Excelsior for -San Francisco. They arrived on July 14, and no one suspected that there -was anything extraordinary in the passenger list or cargo, until a -procession of weather beaten men began a march to the Selby Smelting -works, and there began to open sacks of dust and nuggets, until the heap -made something not seen in San Francisco since the days of '49. The news -flashed over the world, and aroused a fire of interest; and when three -days later the Portland came into Seattle, bringing other miners and -over $1,000,000 in gold, there was a rush to go north which bids fair to -continue for months to come, for one of the articles of faith in the -creed of the Yukon miner is that many other gulches will be found as -rich as these. One elderly man, who went in late last fall and with -partners took four claims on Eldorado Creek, told a reporter that his -pickings had amounted to $112,000, and that he was confident that the -ground left was worth $2,000,000 more. "I want to say," he exclaims, -"that I believe there is gold in every creek in Alaska. Certain on the -Klondike the claims are not spotted. One seems to be as good as another. -It's gold, gold, gold, all over. It's yards wide and deep. All you have -to do is to run a hole down." - -One might go on quoting such rhapsodies, arising from success, to end -of the book, but it is needless, for every newspaper has been full of -them for a month. - -One man and his wife got $135,000; another, formerly a steamboat -deck-hand, $150,000; another, $115,000; a score or more over $50,000, -and so on. These sums were savings after having the heavy expenses of -the winter, and most of them had dug out only a small part of their -ground. - -It is curious in view of this success to read the only descriptive note -the present writer can discover in early writings as to this gold river. -It occurs in Ogilvie's report of his explorations of 1887, and is as -follows: "Six and a half miles above Reliance the Tou-Dac River of the -Indians (Deer River of Schwatka) enter from the east. It is a small -river about 40 yards wide at the mouth and shallow; the water is clear -and transparent and of a beautiful blue color. The Indians catch great -numbers of salmon here. A miner had prospected up this river for an -estimated distance of 40 miles in the season of 1887. I did not see -him." - - - - -THE METHODS OF PLACER MINING - - -in the Klondike region and elsewhere along the Yukon are different from -those pursued elsewhere, owing to the fact that from a point about three -feet below the surface the ground is permanently frozen. The early men -tried to strip off the gravel down to the gold lying in its lower levels -or beneath it, upon the bed rock, and found it exceedingly slow and -laborious work; moreover, it was only during the short summer that any -work could be done. Now, by the aid of fires they sink shafts and then -tunnel along the bed rock where the gold lies. A returned miner -described the process as follows, pointing out the great advantage of -being able to work under ground during the winter: - -[Illustration: PLACER MINE, CLAIM No. 3, ON MILLER CREEK.] - -"The miners build fires over the area where they wish to work and keep -these lighted over that territory for the space of twenty-four hours. -Then the gravel will be melted and softened to a depth of perhaps six -inches. This is then taken off and other fires are built until the gold -bearing layer is reached. When the shaft is down that far other fires -are built at the bottom, against the sides of the layer and tunnels made -in the same manner. Blasting will do no good, the charge not cracking -off but blowing out of the hole. The matter taken out, and containing -the gold is piled up until spring, when the torrents come down, and is -panned and cradled by these. It is certainly very hard labor." - -Another quotation may be given as a practical example of this process: - -"The gold so far as has been taken from Bonanza and Eldorado, both well -named, for the richness of the placers are truly marvelous. Eldorado, -thirty miles long, is staked the whole length and as far as worked has -paid. - -"One of our passengers, who is taking home $100,000 with him, has worked -one hundred feet of his ground and refused $200,000 for the remainder, -and confidently expects to clean up $400,000 and more. He has in a -bottle $212 from one pan of dirt. His pay dirt while being washed -averaged $250 an hour to each man shoveling in. Two others of our miners -who worked their own claim cleaned up $6,000 from one day's washing. - -"There is about fifteen feet of dirt above bed rock, the pay streak -averaging from four to six feet, which is tunnelled out while the ground -is frozen. Of course, the ground taken out is thawed by building fires, -and when the thaw comes and water rushes in they set their sluices and -wash the dirt. Two of our fellows thought a small bird in the hand -worth a large one in the bush, and sold their claims for $45,000, -getting $4,500 down, and the remainder to be paid in monthly -installments of $10,000 each. The purchasers had no more than $5,000 -paid. They were twenty days thawing and getting out dirt. Then there was -no water to sluice with, but one fellow made a rocker, and in ten days -took out the $10,000 for the first installment. So, tunnelling and -rocking, they took out $40,000 before there was water to sluice with." - - - - -LEGAL ASPECT OF ALASKA. - - -Commissioner Hermann, of the General Land Office, has announced that the -following laws of the United States extend over Alaska, where the -general land laws do not apply: - -First--The mineral land laws of the United States. - -Second--Town-site laws, which provide for the incorporation of -town-sites and acquirement of title thereto from the United States -Government by the town-site trustees. - -Third--The laws providing for trade and manufactures, giving each -qualified person 160 acres of land in a square and compact form. - -The coal land regulations are distinct from the mineral regulations or -laws, and as in the case of the general land laws Alaska is expressly -exempt from this jurisdiction. - -On the part of Canada, however, the provisions of the Real Property act -of the Northwest Territories will be extended to the Yukon country by an -order in council, a register will be appointed, and a land title office -will be established. - -The act approved May 17, 1884, providing a civil government for Alaska, -has this language as to mines and mining privileges: - -"The laws of the United States relating to mining claims and rights -incidental thereto shall, on and after the passage of this act, be in -full force and effect in said district of Alaska, subject to such -regulations as may be made by the Secretary of the Interior and approved -by the President," and "parties who have located mines or mining -privileges therein, under the United States laws applicable to the -public domain, or have occupied or improved or exercised acts of -ownership over such claims, shall not be disturbed therein, but shall be -allowed to perfect title by payment so provided for." - -There is still more general authority. Without the special authority, -the act of July 4, 1866, says: "All valuable mineral deposits in lands -belonging to the United States, both surveyed and unsurveyed, are hereby -declared to be free and open to exploration and purchase, and lands in -which these are found to occupation and purchase by citizens of the -United States and by those who have declared an intention to become -such, under the rules prescribed by law and according to local customs -or rules of miners in the several mining districts, so far as the same -are applicable and not inconsistent with the laws of the United States." - -The patenting of mineral lands in Alaska is not a new thing, for that -work has been going on, as the cases have come in from time to time, -since 1884. - -[Illustration: THE POINT AND BEACH AT METLAKAHTLA.] - -One of the difficulties that local capitalists find in their -negotiations for purchase of mining properties on the Yukon is the lack -of authenticated records of owners of claims. Different practices -prevail on the two sides of the line and cause more or less confusion. -The practice has been at most of the new camps to call a miners' meeting -at which one of the parties was elected recorder, and he proceeded to -enter the bearings of stakes and natural marks to define claims. -Sometimes the recorder would give a receipt for a fee allowed by -common consent for recording, and also keep a copy for future reference, -but in a majority of cases even this formality was dispensed with, and -the only record kept was the rough minutes made at the time. - -On the Canadian side a different state of affairs exists. The Dominion -Government has sent a commissioner who is empowered to report officially -all claims, and while no certificate is issued to the owners thereof, -properties are thoroughly defined and their metes and bounds -established. The commissioner in the Klondike district, whose name is -Constantine, also exercises semi-judicial functions, and settles -disputes to the best of his ability, appeal lying to the Ottawa -Government. - -As to courts and the execution of civil and criminal law generally, none -were existent in the upper Yukon Valley on the American side of the line -during 1897. The nearest United States judge was at Sitka. At Circle -City and other centers of population the people had organized into a -sort of town-meeting for the few public matters required; and a sort of -vigilance committee took the place of constituted authority and police. -As a matter of fact, however, the people were quiet and law-abiding and -little need for the machinery of law is likely to arise before courts, -etc., are set up. A movement toward sending a garrison of United States -troops thither was vetoed by the War Department. - -Canada, however, awoke to the realization that her interests were in -jeopardy, and took early steps to profit by the wealth which had been -discovered within her borders and the international business that -resulted. The natural feeling among the Canadians was, and is, that the -property belongs to the Canadian public, and that no good reason exists -why the mineral and other wealth should be exhausted at once, mainly by -outsiders, as has largely happened in the case of Canada's forests. A -prohibitory policy was urged by some, but this seemed neither wise nor -practicable; and the Dominion Government set at work to save as large a -share as it could. As there are gold fields on the Alaska side of the -line, and the approaches lie through United States territory, a spirit -of reciprocal accommodation was necessary. One difficulty has been -averted last spring by President Cleveland's veto of the Immigration -bill, one provision of which would have prevented Canadian laborers -drawing wages in this country, and probably would have provoked a -retaliatory act. - -Canada has already placed customs officers on the passes and at the -Yukon crossing of the boundary to collect customs duties not only on -merchandise but on miner's personal outfits. There is practically no -exception, and the duty comes below 20 per cent. on but few articles. On -most of the goods the duty is from 30 to 35 per cent., and in several -instances higher, but the matter may be very simply adjusted by -purchasing tools and outfits in Victoria or Vancouver, for thus far the -United States has placed no corresponding obstruction in the way of -Canadian travellers to the gold-fields, but, on the contrary, has made -Dyea a sub-port of entry, largely to accommodate British transportation -lines. The Canadian Government is represented in that region now only by -customs officers and 20 mounted police, but it is taking steps to -garrison the whole upper Yukon Valley with its mounted police,--a body -of officers, whose functions are half military, half civil, and which, -it may as well be conceded once for all, cannot be trifled with. There -is no question but that they will do their level best to enforce the -laws to the utmost. The commander of each detachment will be constituted -a magistrate of limited powers, so that civil examinations and trials -may be speedily conducted. - -The plan is to erect a strong post a short distance north of the -sixtieth degree of latitude, just above the northern boundary of British -Columbia, and beyond the head of the Lynn Canal, where the Chilkoot -Pass and the White Pass converge. This post will command the southern -entrance to the whole of that territory. Further on small police posts -will be established, about fifty miles apart, down to Fort Selkirk, -while another general post will patrol the river near the international -boundary, with headquarters, probably, in the Klondike valley. - -The mining regulations of Canada, applying to the Yukon placer claims, -are as follows: - -"Bar diggings" shall mean any part of a river over which water extends -when the water is in its flooded state and which is not covered at low -water. "Mines on benches" shall be known as bench diggings, and shall -for the purpose of defining the size of such claims be excepted from dry -diggings. "Dry diggings" shall mean any mine over which a river never -extends. "Miner" shall mean a male or female over the age of eighteen, -but not under that age. "Claims" shall mean the personal right of -property in a placer mine or diggings during the time for which the -grant of such mine or diggings is made. "Legal post" shall mean a stake -standing not less than four feet above the ground and squared on four -sides for at least one foot from the top. "Close season" shall mean the -period of the year during which placer mining is generally suspended. -The period to be fixed by the gold commissioner in whose district the -claim is situated. "Locality" shall mean the territory along a river -(tributary of the Yukon) and its affluents. "Mineral" shall include all -minerals whatsoever other than coal. - -[Illustration: FORT WRANGELL.] - -1. Bar diggings. A strip of land 100 feet wide at highwater mark and -thence extending along the river to its lowest water level. - -2. The sides of a claim for bar diggings shall be two parallel lines run -as nearly as possible at right angles to the stream, and shall be marked -by four legal posts, one at each end of the claim at or about high water -mark; also one at each end of the claim at or about the edge of the -water. One of the posts shall be legibly marked with the name of the -miner and the date upon which the claim is staked. - -3. Dry diggings shall be 100 feet square and shall have placed at each -of its four corners a legal post, upon one of which shall be legibly -marked the name of the miner and the date upon the claim was staked. - -4. Creek and river claims shall be 500 feet long, measured in the -direction of the mineral course of the stream, and shall extend in width -from base to base of the hill or bench on each side, but when the hills -or benches are less than 100 feet apart the claim may be 100 feet in -depth. The sides of a claim shall be two parallel lines run as nearly -as possible at right angles to the stream. The sides shall be marked -with legal posts at or about the edge of the water and at the rear -boundary of the claim. One of the legal posts at the stream shall be -legibly marked with the name of the miner and the date upon which the -claim was staked. - -5. Bench claims shall be 100 feet square. - -6. In defining the size of claims they shall be measured horizontally, -irrespective of inequalities on the surface of the ground. - -7. If any person or persons shall discover a new mine and such discovery -shall be established to the satisfaction of the gold commissioner, a -claim for the bar diggings 750 feet in length may be granted. A new -stratum of auriferous earth or gravel situated in a locality where the -claims are abandoned shall for this purpose be deemed a new mine, -although the same locality shall have previously been worked at a -different level. - -8. The forms of application for a grant for placer mining and the grant -of the same shall be according to those made, provided or supplied by -the gold commissioner. - -9. A claim shall be recorded with the gold commissioner in whose -district it is situated within three days after the location thereof if -it is located within ten miles of the commissioner's office. One day -extra shall be allowed for making such record for every additional ten -miles and fraction thereof. - -10. In the event of the absence of the gold commissioner from his office -for entry a claim may be granted by any person whom he may appoint to -perform his duties in his absence. - -11. Entry shall not be granted for a claim which has not been staked by -the applicant in person in the manner specified in these resolutions. An -affidavit that the claim was staked out by the applicant shall be -embodied in the application. - -12. An entry fee of $15 shall be charged the first year and an annual -fee of $100 for each of the following years. - -13. After recording a claim the removal of any post by the holder -thereof or any person acting in his behalf for the purpose of changing -the boundaries of his claim shall act as a forfeiture of the claim. - -14. The entry of every holder for a grant for placer mining must be -renewed and his receipt relinquished and replaced every year, the entry -fee being paid each year. - -15. No miner shall receive a grant for more than one mining claim in the -same locality; but the same miner may hold any number of claims by -purchase, and any number of miners may unite to work their claims in -common upon such terms as they may arrange, provided such agreement be -registered with the Gold Commissioner and a fee of $15 for each -registration. - -16. And miner may sell, mortgage, or dispose of his claims, provided -such disposal be registered with and a fee of $5 paid to the Gold -Commissioner. - -17. Every miner shall, during the continuance of his grant, have the -exclusive right of entry upon his own claim for the miner-like working -thereof, and the construction of a residence thereon, and shall be -entitled exclusively to all the proceeds realized therefrom; but he -shall have no surface rights therein, and the Gold Commissioner may -grant to the holders of adjacent claims such rights of entry thereon as -may be absolutely necessary for the working of their claims, upon such -terms as may to him seem reasonable. He may also grant permits to miners -to cut timber thereon for their own use, upon payment of the dues -prescribed by the regulation in that behalf. - -18. Every miner shall be entitled to the use of so much of the water -naturally flowing through or past his claim, and not already lawfully -appropriated as shall in the opinion of the Gold Commissioner be -necessary for the due working thereof, and shall be entitled to drain -his own claim free of charge. - -[Illustration: CHILKOOT PASS.] - -19. A claim shall be deemed to be abandoned and open to occupation and -entry by any person when the same shall have remained unworked on -working days by the guarantee thereof or by some person in his behalf -for the space of seventy-two hours unless sickness or some other -reasonable cause may be shown to the satisfaction of the Gold -Commissioner, or unless the guarantee is absent on leave given by the -commissioner, and the Gold Commissioner, upon obtaining satisfactory -evidence that this provision is not being complied with, may cancel the -entry given in the claim. - -20. If the land upon which a claim has been located is not the property -of the Crown it will be necessary for the person who applies for entry -to furnish proof that he has acquired from the owner of the land the -surface right before entry can be granted. - -21. If the occupier of the lands has not received a patent thereof the -purchase money of the surface rights must be paid to the Crown and a -patent of the surface rights will issue to the party who acquired the -mining rights. The money so collected will either be refunded to the -occupier of the land when he is entitled to a patent there or will be -credited to him on account of payment of land. - -22. When the party obtaining the mining rights cannot make an -arrangement with the owner thereof for the acquisition of the surface -rights it shall be lawful for him to give notice to the owner or his -agents or the occupier to appoint an arbitrator to act with another -arbitrator named by him in order to award the amount of compensation to -which the owner or occupier shall be entitled. - -The royalty and reserve additions to this, made since the recent -discoveries and on account of them, are as follows: - -1. A royalty of 10 per cent will be collected for the government on all -amounts taken out of any one claim up to $500 a week, and after that 20 -per cent. This royalty will be collected on gold taken from streams -already being worked, but in regard to all future discoveries the -government proposes - -2. That upon every river and creek where mining locations shall be -staked out every alternate claim shall be the property of the -government. - -These regulations, say the Canadians, are made with the purpose of -developing a country, which, as elsewhere shown in this pamphlet, is -capable of supporting a large permanent population and varied -industries. Whether they can be enforced remains to be seen, and -difficulties will certainly attend the collection of a royalty on -gold-dust. The effect of these regulations, it is believed by the -authors, will be to encourage permanent settlement and the treatment of -mining as a regular industry and not simply as an adventurous -speculation. Another effect, undoubtedly, will be to cause immigrants, -including Canadians themselves, to prospect and mine on the United -States side of the line, whenever they have an equal opportunity for -success. - -The boundary dispute does not as yet seriously affect the question or -rights and privileges in the new gold regions, as the disputed part of -the line, southeast of Alaska, runs through a region not yet occupied, -and practically the whole of Lynn Canal is administered by the United -States, and the Canadians act as though it were decided that their -boundary was farther inland than some of them pretend. From Mt. St. -Elias north, the 141st meridian is the undisputed boundary, and this has -been fixed by an international commission, crossing the Yukon at a -marked point near the mouth of Forty Mile Creek. Nearly or quite all of -the diggings upon which are written Alaskan territory, as also are the -valuable placers on Birch and Miller creeks. It will be a matter of -extreme difficulty along this part of the boundary to prevent smuggling, -to discover and collect Canadian royalties, and to capture criminals -except by international coöperation. - - - - -CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE AND HEALTH. - - -The Weather Bureau has made public a statement in regard to the climate -of Alaska, which says: "The climates of the coast and the interior of -Alaska are unlike in many respects, and the differences are intensified -in this as perhaps in few other countries by exceptional physical -conditions. The fringe of islands that separates the mainland from the -Pacific Ocean from Dixon Sound north, and also a strip of the mainland -for possibly twenty miles back from the sea, following the sweep of the -coast as it curves to the northwestward to the western extremity of -Alaska form a distinct climatic division which may be termed temperate -Alaska. The temperature rarely falls to zero; winter does not set in -until Dec. 1, and by the last of May the snow has disappeared except on -the mountains. - -"The mean winter temperature of Sitka is 32.5, but little less than that -of Washington, D. C. The rainfall of temperate Alaska is notorious the -world over, not only as regards the quantity, but also as to the manner -of its falling, viz.: in long and incessant rains and drizzles. Cloud -and fog naturally abound, there being on an average but sixty-six clear -days in the year. - -[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF SILVER BOW BASIN, NEAR JUNEAU.] - -"North of the Aleutian Islands the coast climate becomes more rigorous -in winter, but in summer the difference is much less marked. - -"The climate of the interior is one of extreme rigor in winter, with a -brief but relatively hot summer, especially when the sky is free from -cloud. - -"In the Klondike region in midwinter the sun rises from 9:30 to 10 a. -m., and sets from 2 to 3 p. m., the total length of daylight being about -four hours. Remembering that the sun rises but a few degrees above the -horizon and that it is wholly obscured on a great many days, the -character of the winter months may easily be imagined. - -"We are indebted to the United States coast and geodetic survey for a -series of six months' observations on the Yukon, not far from the site -of the present gold discoveries. The observations were made with -standard instruments, and are wholly reliable. The mean temperatures of -the months October, 1889, to April, 1890, both inclusive, are as -follows: October, 33 degrees; November, 8 degrees; December, 11 degrees, -below zero; January, 17 below zero; February, 15 below zero; March, 6 -above; April 20 above. The daily mean temperature fell and remained -below the freezing point (32 degrees) from Nov. 4, 1889, to April 21, -1890, thus giving 168 days as the length of the closed season of -1889-'90, assuming that outdoor operations are controlled by -temperature only. The lowest temperatures registered during the winter -were: Thirty-two degrees below zero in November, 47 below in December, -59 below in January, 55 below in February, 45 below in March, and 26 -below in April. - -"The greatest continuous cold occurred in February, 1890, when the daily -mean for five consecutive days was 47 degrees below zero. - -"Greater cold than that here noted has been experienced in the United -States for a very short time, but never has it continued so very cold -for so long a time as in the interior of Alaska. The winter sets in as -early as September, when snow-storms may be expected in the mountains -and passes. Headway during one of those storms is impossible, and the -traveler who is overtaken by one of them is indeed fortunate if he -escapes with his life. Snowstorms of great severity may occur in any -month from September to May, inclusive. - -"The changes of temperature from winter to summer are rapid, owing to -the great increase in the length of the day. In May the sun rises at -about 3 a. m. and sets about 9 p. m. In June it rises about half past 1 -in the morning, and sets at about half past 10, giving about twenty -hours of daylight and diffuse twilight the remainder of the time. - -"The mean summer temperature in the interior doubtless ranges between 60 -and 70 degrees, according to elevation, being highest in the middle and -lower Yukon valleys." - -Accurate data of the temperature in the Klondike district were kept at -Fort Constantine last year. The temperature first touched zero Nov. 10, -and the zero weather recorded in the spring was on April 29. - -Between Dec. 19 and Feb. 6 it never rose above zero. The lowest actual -point, 65 below, occurred on Jan. 27, and on twenty-four days during the -winter the temperature was below 50. - -On March 12 it first rose above the freezing point, but no continuous -mild weather occurred until May 4, after which date the temperature -during the balance of the month frequently rose above 60 degrees. - -The Yukon River froze up on Oct. 28 and broke up on May 17. - -The long and severe winter and the frozen moss-covered ground are -serious obstacles to agriculture and stock raising. The former can -change but little with coming seasons, but the latter, by gradually -burning off areas, can be overcome to some extent. On such burned tracts -hardy vegetables have been and may be raised, and the area open to such -use is considerable. Potatoes do well and barley will mature a fair -crop. - -Live stock may be kept by providing an abundance of shelter and feed and -housing them during the winter. In summer an abundance of the finest -grass pasture can be had, and great quantities of natural hay can be cut -in various places. - -Diseases: In spite of all that is heard in the newspapers regarding the -healthfulness of the climate of Alaska and the upper Yukon, the Census -Report of Alaska offers its incontestable statistics to the effect that -the country is not more salubrious, nor its people more healthy than -could be expected in a region of violent climate, where the most -ordinary laws of health remain almost totally ignored. From the -Government Report we quote the following: - -"Those diseases which are most fatal to life in one section of Alaska -seem to be applicable to all others. In the first place, the native -children receive little or no care, and for the first few years of their -lives are more often naked than clothed, at all seasons of the year. -Consumption is the simple and comprehensive title for the disease which -destroys the greater number of the people of Alaska. Aluet, Indian and -Eskimo suffer from it alike; and all alike exhibit the same stolid -indifference to its slow and fatal progress, make no attempt to ward -it off, take no special precautions even when the disease reaches its -climax. - -[Illustration: MUIR GLACIER (MIDDLE PORTION).] - -Next to consumption, the scrofulous diseases, in the forms of ulcers, -eat into the vitals and destroy them until the natives have the -appearance of lepers to unaccustomed eyes. As a consequence of their -neglect and the exigencies of the native life, forty or fifty years is -counted among them as comparatively great age, and none are without the -ophthalmic diseases necessarily attendant on existence in smoky -barabaras. Against snow-blindness the Eskimo people use peculiar -goggles, but by far the greater evil, the smoke poisoning of the -opthalmic nerve is neither overcome nor prevented by any of them. All -traders carry medicine chests and do what they can to relieve suffering, -but it requires a great deal of medicine to make an impression on the -native constitution, doses being about four times what would suffice an -Englishman or American. - - - - -OUTFITS, SUPPLIES, ETC. - - -Houses.--Almost every item has been taken into consideration by the -prospectors starting out to face an Alaskan winter except the item of -shelter when they shall have put their boats in winter dock. The result -will be that many hundreds will find themselves in the bleak region with -plenty of money and victuals, but insufficient protection from the cold -weather. From accounts that have come from Alaska and British Columbia, -there are more men there skilled in digging and bookkeeping than in -carpentry, and more picks and shovels than axes and planes. With the -arrival of parties that have lately gone to the headwaters of the Yukon, -there will necessarily be an immense demand for houses, for without them -the miners will freeze. This matter is beginning to receive attention in -San Francisco and Seattle, and preparations are now under way to provide -gold seekers with houses. - -Within a week negotiations have been conducted between parties in San -Francisco and this city for the shipment of entire houses to the gold -regions. The houses will be constructed in sections, so that they may be -carried easily in boats up the Yukon or packed on sleds and carried -through the rough country in baggage trains. A New York firm which -makes a specialty of such houses has received orders for as many as can -be sent there. - -[Illustration: SUPPLY STATION FOR CIRCLE CITY.] - -No tents are used in winter, as they become coated with ice from the -breath of the sleepers and are also apt to take fire. - -Clothing for Men.--A year's supply of winter clothing ought be taken, -especial pains being taken to supply plenty of warm, durable underwear. -Old-timers in the country wear in winter a coat or blouse of dressed -deer skin, with the hair on, coming down to the knees and held by a belt -round the waist. It has a hood which may be thrown back on the shoulders -when not needed. This shirt is trimmed with white deerskin or wolfskin, -while those worn in extreme weather are often lined with fur. Next in -importance to them are the torbassâ or Eskimo boots. These are of -reindeer skin, taken from the legs, where the hair is short, smooth and -stiff. These are sewed together to make the tops of the boots which come -up nearly to the knee, where they are tied. The sole is of sealskin, -turned over at heel and toe and gathered up so as to protect those parts -and then brought up on each side. They are made much larger than the -foot and are worn with a pad of dry grass which, folded to fit the sole, -thickens the boot and forms an additional protection to the foot. A pair -of strings tied about the ankle from either side complete a covering -admirably adapted to the necessities of winter travel. If the newcomer -can get such garments as these he will be well provided against winter -rigors. - -Women going to the mines are advised to take two pairs of extra heavy -all-wool blankets, one small pillow, one fur robe, one warm shawl, one -fur coat, easy fitting; three warm woollen dresses, with comfortable -bodices and shirts knee length, flannel-lined preferable; three pairs of -knickers or bloomers to match the dresses, three suits of heavy all-wool -underwear, three warm flannel night dresses, four pairs of knitted -woollen stockings, one pair of rubber boots, three gingham aprons that -reach from neck to knees, small roll of flannel for insoles, wrapping -the feet and bandages; a sewing kit, such toilet articles as are -absolutely necessary, including some skin unguent to protect the face -from the icy cold, two light blouses or shirt waists for summer wear, -one oilskin blanket to wrap her effects in, to be secured at Juneau or -St. Michael; one fur cape, two pairs of fur gloves, two pairs of surseal -moccasins, two pairs of muclucs--wet weather moccasins. - -[Illustration: VILLAGE OF ST. PAUL.] - -She wears what she pleases en route to Juneau or St. Michael, and when -she makes her start for the diggings she lays aside every civilized -traveling garb, including shoes and stays, until she comes out. -Instead of carrying the fur robe, fur coat and rubber boots along, she -can get them on entering Alaska, but the experienced ones say, take them -along. Leggings and shoes are not so safe nor desirable as the -moccasins. A trunk is not the thing to transport baggage in. It is much -better in a pack, with the oilskin cover well tied on. The things to add -that are useful, but not absolutely necessary, are chocolate, coffee and -the smaller light luxuries. - -Beds are made on a platform raised a few feet from the floor, and about -seven feet wide. Often consists of a reindeer skin with the hair on and -one end sewn up so as to make a sort of bag to put the feet in. A pillow -of wild goose feathers, and a pair of blankets. Sheets, which have been -unknown heretofore, may become essential, but such a conventionality as -a counterpane would better be left behind. - -Provisions.--There was a report that Canadian mounted police would guard -the passes during the latter part of the summer of 1897 and refuse -admission to anyone who did not bring a year's provisions with him. This -has been estimated as weighing 1,800 pounds. Whether this is true or -not, it is certain that no one should go into the Yukon country without -taking a large supply of food, and taking it from his starting-point. -Whatever is the most condensed and nutritious is the cheapest, and this -should be collected with great care. There is well-grounded fear that -famine may overtake all the camps there before the opening of navigation -in the spring. Newspapers on August 2nd reported agents of the Alaska -Commercial Company as saying: - -"We shall refuse to take passengers at all in our next steamer. We could -sell every berth at the price we have been asking--$250, as against $120 -last spring--but we shall not sell one. We shall fill up with -provisions, and I have no doubt the Pacific Coast Company will do the -same. We are afraid. Those who are mad to get to the diggings will -probably be able to get transportation by chartering tramp steamers, and -there is a serious risk that there will not be food enough for them at -Juneau or on the Yukon. After the season closes it will be next to -impossible to get supplies into the Yukon country, and a large -proportion of the gold seekers may starve to death. That would be an -ominous beginning for the new camp. Alaska is not like California or -Australia or South Africa. It produces nothing. When the supplies from -outside are exhausted, famine must follow--to what degree no one can -tell." - -[Illustration: PANORAMIC VIEW OF JUNEAU.] - -It was further understood at this date that there are 2,000 tons of food -at St. Michael, and the Alaska Company has three large and three -small steamers to carry it up river. It is hard to ascertain how much -there is at Juneau; it is vaguely stated that there are 5,000 tons. At a -pinch steamers might work their way for several months to come through -the ice to that port from Seattle, which is only three days distant. But -it may be nip and tuck if there is any rush of gold seekers from the -East. - -Alaskan Mails.--Between Seattle and Sitka the mail steamers ply -regularly. On the City of Topeka there has been established a regular -sea post-office service. W. R. Curtis is the clerk in charge. Between -Sitka and Juneau there is a closed pouch steamboat service. Seattle -makes up closed pouches for Douglas, Fort Wrangel, Juneau, Killisnoo, -Ketchikan, Mary Island, Sitka, and Metlakatlah. Connecting at Sitka is -other sea service between that point and Unalaska, 1,400 miles to the -west. This service consists of one trip a month between Sitka and -Unalaska from April to October and leaves Sitka immediately upon arrival -of the mails from Seattle. Captain J. E. Hanson is acting clerk. From -Unalaska the mails are dispatched to St. Michael and thence to points on -the Yukon. - -The Postoffice department has perfected not only a summer but a winter -star route service between Juneau and Circle City. The route is overland -and by boats and rafts over the lakes and down the Yukon, and is 900 -miles long. A Chicago man named Beddoe carries the summer mail, making -five trips between June and November, and is paid $500 a trip. Two -Juneau men, Frank Corwin and Albert Hayes, operate the winter service -and draw for each round trip $1,700 in gold. About 1,200 letters are -carried on each trip. The cost of forwarding letters from Circle City to -Dawson City is one dollar for each letter and two for each paper, the -mails being sent over once a month. The Chilkoot Pass is crossed with -the mail by means of Indian carriers. On the previous trips the -carriers, after finishing the pass, built their boats, but they now have -their own to pass the lakes and the Lewes River. - -In the winter transportation is carried on by means of dogsleds, and it -is hoped that under the present contracts there will be no stoppage, no -matter how low the temperature may go. The contractor has reported that -he was sending a boat, in sections, by way of St. Michael, up the Yukon -River, to be used on the waterway of the route, and it is thought much -time will be saved by this, as formerly it was necessary for the -carriers to stop and build boats or rafts to pass the lakes. - -[Illustration: VIEW OF WRANGELL (FROM CHIEF'S HOUSE).] - -Contracts have been made with two steamboat companies for two trips from -Seattle to St. Michael. When the steamers reach St. Michael, the mail -will be transferred to the flat-bottomed boats running up the Yukon as -far as Circle City. It is believed the boats now run further up. - -The contracts for the overland route call for only first-class matter, -whereas the steamers in summer carry everything, up to five tons, each -trip. - -Sledges and Dogs.--The sleds are heavy and shod with bone sawed from the -upper edge of the jaw of the bowright whale. The rest of the sled is of -spruce and will carry from six to eight hundred pounds. The sleds used -in the interior are lighter and differently constructed. They consist of -a narrow box four feet long, the front half being covered or boxed in, -mounted on a floor eight feet long resting on runners. In this box the -passenger sits, wrapped in rabbit skins so that he can hardly move, his -head and shoulders only projecting. In front and behind and on top of -the box is placed all the luggage, covered with canvas and securely -lashed, to withstand all the jolting and possible upsets, and our snow -shoes within easy reach. - -An important item is the dog-whip, terrible to the dog if used by a -skillful hand and terrible to the user if he be a novice; for he is sure -to half strangle himself or to hurt his own face with the business end -of the lash. The whip I measured had a handle nine inches long and lash -thirty feet, and weighed four pounds. The lash was of folded and plaited -seal hide, and for five feet from the handle measured five inches round, -then for fourteen feet it gradually tapered off, ending in a single -thong half an inch thick and eleven feet long. Wonderful the dexterity -with which a driver can pick out a dog and almost a spot on a dog with -this lash. The lash must be trailing at full length behind, when a jerk -and turn of the wrist causes it to fly forward, the thick part first, -and the tapering end continuing the motion till it is at full length in -front, and the lash making the fur fly from the victim. But often it is -made to crack over the heads of the dogs as a warning. - -[Illustration: A TEAM OF DOGS AND DOG SLEDGES.] - -The eleven dogs were harnessed to the front of the sled, each by a -separate thong of seal hide, all of different lengths, fastened to a -light canvas harness. The nearest dog was about fifteen feet from the -sled, and the leader, with bells on her, about fifty feet, the thongs -thus increasing in length by about three feet. When the going is good -the dogs spread out like the fingers of a hand, but when the snow is -deep they fall into each other's tracks in almost single file. As they -continually cross and recross each other, the thongs get gradually -plaited almost up to the rearmost dog, when a halt is called, the -dogs are made to lie down, and the driver carefully disentangles them, -taking care that no dog gets away meanwhile. They are guided by the -voice, using "husky," that is, Eskimo words: "Owk," go to the right; -"arrah," to the left, and "holt," straight on. But often one of the men -must run ahead on snowshoes for the dogs to follow him. - -The dogs are of all colors, somewhat the height of the Newfoundland, but -with shorter legs. The usual number is from five to seven, according to -the load. - -List of prices that have been current in Dawson City during 1897: - - Flour, per 100 lbs. $12.00 to $120.00 - Moose ham, per lb. 1.00 to 2.00 - Caribou meat, lb. .65 - Beans, per lb. .10 - Rice, per lb. .25 to .75 - Sugar, per lb. .25 - Bacon, per lb. .40 to .80 - Butter, per roll 1.50 to 2.50 - Eggs, per doz. 1.50 to 3.00 - Better eggs, doz. 2.00 - Salmon, each 1.00 to 1.50 - Potatoes, per lb. .25 - Turnips, per lb. .15 - Tea, per lb. 1.00 to 3.00 - Coffee, per lb. .50 to 2.25 - Dried fruits, per lb. .35 - Canned fruits .50 to 2.25 - Lemons, each .20 to .25 - Oranges, each .50 - Tobacco, per lb. 1.50 to 2.00 - Liquors, per drink .50 - Shovels 2.50 to 18.00 - Picks 5.00 to 7.00 - Coal oil, per gal. 1.00 to 2.50 - Overalls 1.50 - Underwear, per suit 5.00 to 7.50 - Shoes 5.00 to 8.00 - Rubber boots 15.00 to 18.00 - -Based on supply and demand the above quoted prices may vary several -hundred per cent. on some articles at any time. - -Fare to Seattle by way of Northern Pacific, $81.50. - -Fee for Pullman sleeper, $20.50. - -Fee for tourist sleeper, run only west of St. Paul, $55. - -Meals served in dining car for entire trip, $16. - -Meals are served at stations along the route a la carte. - -Distance from New York to Seattle, 3,290 miles. - -Days required to make the journey, about six. - -Fare for steamer from Seattle to Juneau, including cabin and meals, $35. - -Days, Seattle to Juneau, about five. - -Number of miles from Seattle to Juneau, 725. - -Cost of living in Juneau, about $3 per day. - -Distance on Lynn Canal to Healey's Store, steamboat, seventy-five miles. - -Number of days, New York to Healey's Store, twelve. - -Cost of complete outfit for overland journey, about $150. - -Cost of provisions for one year, about $200. - -Cost of dogs, sled and outfit, about $150. - -Steamer leaves Seattle once a week. - -Best time to start is early in the Spring. - -Total cost of trip, New York to Klondike, about $667. - -Number of days required for journey, New York to Klondike, thirty-six to -forty. - -Total distance, New York to the mines at Klondike, 4,650 miles. - - - - -Doane & McDonald - -233-235 Monroe St., Chicago, Ill. - - Leather and - Duck Clothing - Fur Garments and Robes - Prospectors' Clothing - Three-Point Blankets - Exquimaux Suits - Sleeping Bags - -[Illustration: No. 477.] - -[Illustration: No. 21.] - - - - -RAND, MCNALLY & CO.'S - -Large Map of Alaska - -SIZE, 24 × 36 INCHES. - -From United States and Dominion of Canada Official Survey, revised to -July 29, 1897, shows in detail - - -THE GOLD FIELDS OF THE KLONDIKE REGION - -The Routes from - - JUNEAU, YUKON RIVER AND NORTHERN BRITISH COLUMBIA - -Locates and names - - DAWSON - FORT RELIANCE - FORTY MILE CREEK - SIXTY MILE CREEK - FORT SELKIRK - JUNEAU - TELEGRAPH CREEK - TESLIN RIVER - LEWIS RIVER - CHILKOOT PASS - CHILKAT PASS - WHITE PASS - ATLIN LAKE - WRANGELL - TESLIN LAKE - TAMZILLA RIVER - And all other points of importance. - - - SCALE 1:3,600,000, OR 55 MILES TO THE INCH. - - =Price, in pocket form, 50 cents.= Sent to any address in the - United States and Canada prepaid, upon receipt of price. - - - Rand, McNally & Co., Publishers, - - NEW YORK BRANCH: - 61 EAST NINTH STREET. ....CHICAGO. - - - - -For Convenient Reference. - -NEW COLORED MAPS OF EVERY COUNTRY IN THE WORLD. AN ACCURATE UP-TO-DATE -READY REFERENCE WORK FOR THE USE OF EVERYBODY. - -[Illustration] - - 160 PAGES. SIZE, 12 × 14 INCHES. - -Showing NOTHING BUT MAPS of - - Each State, Territory, and large City in the United - States, Provinces of Canada, the Continents and their - Subdivisions, with Ready-reference Marginal Index. - - Bound in stiff cloth, colored edges. Price, $2.50 - - - - -THE LATEST ACKNOWLEDGED STANDARD MANUAL - -FOR - -Presidents, Secretaries, - -DIRECTORS, CHAIRMEN, PRESIDING OFFICERS, - -And everyone in anyway connected with public life or corporate bodies - -IS - -_Reed's Rules_ - -BY - -THE HON. THOMAS B. REED, - -Speaker of the House of Representatives, - - "I commend the book most highly." - - =WILLIAM McKINLEY,= _President of the United States._ - - - "Reasonable, right, and rigid." - - =J. STERLING MORTON,= - _Ex-Secretary of Agriculture._ - - CLOTH, 75 CENTS, - - LEATHER, $1.25. - - RAND, McNALLY & CO., Publishers, - CHICAGO. - - - - -MARAH ELLIS RYAN'S WORKS. - - -A FLOWER OF FRANCE. - -A STORY OF OLD LOUISIANA. - - The story is well told.--_Herald, New York._ - - A real romance--just the kind of romance one delights - in.--_Times, Boston._ - - Full of stirring incident and picturesque - description.--_Press, Philadelphia._ - - The interest holds the reader until the closing - page.--_Inter-Ocean, Chicago._ - - Told with great fascination and brightness. * * * The - general impression delightful. * * * Many thrilling - scenes.--_Herald, Chicago._ - - A thrilling story of passion and action.--_Commercial, - Memphis._ - - -A PAGAN OF THE ALLEGHANIES. - - A genuine art work.--_Chicago Tribune._ - - A remarkable book, original and dramatic in - conception, and pure and noble in tone.--_Boston - Literary World._ - - REV. DAVID SWING said:--The books of Marah Ellis Ryan - give great pleasure to all the best class of readers. - "A Pagan of the Alleghanies" is one of her best works; - but all she writes is high and pure. Her words are all - true to nature, and, with her, nature is a great - theme. - - ROBERT G. INGERSOLL says:--Your description of scenery - and seasons--of the capture of the mountains by - spring--of tree and fern, of laurel, cloud and mist, - and the woods of the forest, are true, poetic, and - beautiful. To say the least, the pagan saw and - appreciated many of the difficulties and - contradictions that grow out of and belong to creeds. - He saw how hard it is to harmonize what we see and - know with the idea that over all is infinite power and - goodness * * * the divine spark called Genius is in - your brain. - - -SQUAW ÉLOUISE. - - Vigorous, natural, entertaining.--_Boston Times._ - - A notable performance.--_Chicago Tribune._ - - A very strong story, indeed.--_Chicago Times._ - - -TOLD IN THE HILLS. - - A book that is more than clever. It is healthy, brave, - and inspiring.--_St. Louis Post-Dispatch._ - - The character of Stuart is one of the finest which has - been drawn by an American woman in many a day, and it - is depicted with an appreciation hardly to be expected - even from a man.--_Boston Herald._ - - -IN LOVE'S DOMAINS. - - There are imagination and poetical expressions in the - stories, and readers will find them interesting.--_New - York Sun._ - - The longest story, "Galeed," is a strong, nervous - story, covering a wide range, and dealing in a - masterly way with some intricate questions of what - might be termed amatory psychology.--_San Francisco - Chronicle._ - - -MERZE; THE STORY OF AN ACTRESS. - - We can not doubt that the author is one of the best - living orators of her sex. The book will possess a - strong attraction for women.--_Chicago Herald._ - - This is the story of the life of an actress, told in - the graphic style of Mrs. Ryan. It is very - interesting.--_New Orleans Picayune._ - - * * * * * - - FOR SALE BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. - - RAND, McNALLY & CO., Publishers, Chicago and New York - - - - -ESTABLISHED 1840. - - -GEO. B. CARPENTER & CO. - -MANUFACTURERS OF - -Miners' and Camping - -[Illustration] - -TENTS - -[Illustration] - -Sleeping Bags - -Camp Outfits - - =WATER-PROOF CLOTHING,= - =WATER-PROOF DUNNAGE BAGS, Etc.= - -WESTERN AGENTS FOR THE - -Primus Cooking Stove - -=Used Exclusively by NANSEN on his Trip to the Pole.= - - Send 4 cents in stamps for Catalogue, - and mention this Guide. - - =202, 204, 206, 208 South Water Street,= - - =CHICAGO, ILL.= - - - - - Alaska-Klondike - Gold Mining Company - - CAPITAL STOCK ... 500,000 Shares. - Par Value ... $10.00 each. - Full Paid--Non-Assessable. - - * * * * * - - This Company is a - Transportation, - Commercial, and Mining Corporation - -owning large GOLD GRAVEL claims on the Yukon, Klondike, and other rivers -in Alaska, and now have under construction steamers to ply on the Yukon -next season. - - The Board of Directors are a sufficient guarantee that - the affairs of the Company will be well managed. - -_DIRECTORS._ - - =JAMES RICE=, - Late Secretary State of Colorado. - - =WM. SHAW=, - Capitalist, Chicago. - - =E. M. TITCOMB=, Vice-Pres't and Gen'l Manager, - Eastman Fruit Despatch Co. - - =H. C. FASH=, - Member Maritime Exchange, New York. - - =GEO. W. MORGAN=, - Circle City, Alaska. - -A limited amount of Shares are offered at =$10.00 per share=. - -For information, address, - - Alaska-Klondike Gold Mining Co. - 96 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. - - HON. JAMES RICE, PRESIDENT. - W. L. BOYD, SECRETARY. - - - - - HO! FOR THE - Klondike - REGIONS AND THE - Gold Fields - of Alaska - - We make a specialty of outfitting, and can supply you - with everything you eat, wear, or use. We have ... - - =Jumbo Shirts, Underwear and Hosiery - for the Northern Regions,= - - sold by us exclusively, - - =Gum Boots,= =Fur Robes and Blankets,= - =Miners' Boots,= =Canned Food Products,= - =Woolen Shirts,= =Meats,= - =Pants,= =Portable Camp Outfits= - =Overcoats,= (tin and aluminum), - =Arctic Clothing,= =Miners' Tools,= - =Sleeping Bags,= =Guns and Ammunition.= - - In fact, we can supply you with anything and - everything you'll need during your stay in Alaska. - -=Our General Catalogue _and_ Buyers' Guide= - - Tells the prices. Send 15 cents to partly pay postage - or expressage, and we'll send you a copy. It has - nearly 800 pages, over 13,000 illustrations, and more - than 40,000 descriptions of everything you wear or - use. - - MONTGOMERY WARD & Co. - 111 to 120 Michigan Ave., - CHICAGO. - - * * * * * - -Transcriber's Notes: - -Obvious punctuation errors repaired. Text uses Shagway, Shkagway and -Skagway once each. - -Page iv, "intensly" changed to "intensely" (is intensely curious) - -Page vi, repeated word "to" removed original read (travelers to to that -far-away) - -Page 49, "guage" changed to "gauge" (for a narrow gauge) - -Page 50, "Lindemann" changed to "Lindeman" (miles below Lake Lindeman) - -Page 52, "oulet" changed to "outlet" (The outlet is a clear) - -Page 73, "reconnoisance" changed to "reconnaissance" (examined until the -reconnaissance) - -Page 75, "Cambell" changed to "Campbell" (1840 Robert Campbell) - -Page 79, "completely" changed to "completed" (completed, when, on -August) - -Page 80, "exhorbitant" changed to "exorbitant" (at an exorbitant profit) - -Page 85, "murcury" changed to "mercury" (rocks with the mercury) - -Page 118, "ACRICULTURE" changed to "AGRICULTURE" (CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE -AND HEALTH) - -Page 123, "accurred" changed to "occurred" (65 below, occurred) - -Page 127, "ophmalmic" changed to "opthalmic" (the opthalmic nerve) - -Page 135, "raindeer" changed to "reindeer" (of a reindeer skin with) - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Golden Alaska, by Ernest Ingersoll - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GOLDEN ALASKA *** - -***** This file should be named 41158-8.txt or 41158-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/1/5/41158/ - -Produced by Greg Bergquist and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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