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diff --git a/40889-8.txt b/40889-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 1109f06..0000000 --- a/40889-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13186 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Tyrol and its People, by Clive Holland - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Tyrol and its People - -Author: Clive Holland - -Illustrator: Adrian Stokes - -Release Date: September 28, 2012 [EBook #40889] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TYROL AND ITS PEOPLE *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: - - Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have - been preserved. Anglicized, archaic, or otherwise unusual spellings - of proper nouns were retained as printed. Examples include "Botzen", - "Kapuzingerberg", "Schonberg" and "Wencelaus". Inconsistent use of - diacritics was also retained as printed. Obvious typographical - errors were corrected. - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. - - - - - [Illustration: - A MAP TO - ILLUSTRATE - TYROL - AND ITS - PEOPLE] - - - - -TYROL AND ITS PEOPLE - - - - - [Illustration: THE GOAT HERD, KASTELRUTH, NEAR BOZEN] - - - - - TYROL - AND ITS PEOPLE - - BY - CLIVE HOLLAND - - WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY - ADRIAN STOKES - - THIRTY-ONE OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS - AND A MAP - - METHUEN AND CO. - 36 ESSEX STREET W.C. - LONDON - - - - - _First Published in 1909_ - - - - -PREFACE - - -In the following pages, which in addition to being a record of travel -in a delightful and too little known portion of the great -Austro-Hungarian Empire, are also an attempt to present within a -reasonable compass an account of the national history of a singularly -interesting people, the author has sought to deal more fully than is -usually the case in books of the kind, with the romance and legend -which is closely interwoven with the past of "the land within the -mountains," as Tyrol has not inaptly been described. - -It is truly a land of mountains, valleys, lakes, and rushing torrents -that may well have bred the race of romance-loving, poetic, and hardy -people who dwell in it. In the minds of those who know it there arises -almost inevitably a comparison with the nowadays overcrowded and -over-exploited Switzerland--and the comparison is, both as regards -scenery and general interest, greatly in favour of Tyrol. The tourist -and holiday-maker who frequent Pontresina or St. Moritz will find in -this comparatively new "playground for Europe" beautiful counterparts -of those places in Innsbruck, Meran, Botzen, Kitzbühel, and other -delightful towns; whilst the more strenuously inclined who delight in -mountain ascents will find the Dolomite region especially attractive, -and in many other districts also interesting climbs. By the shores of -the placid, translucent lakes, and in many a happy, secluded valley, -those in search of rest and quietude will find their desire fully -satisfied. And in such old-world towns as Innsbruck (of many -historical memories), beautiful Salzburg, charming Bregenz, Botzen, -and Meran the traveller with more artistic, literary, or antiquarian -tastes will delight. - -That Tyrol deserves to be better known few who have once come under -the spell of its charms of scenery, and the frank hospitality and -friendliness of its people, or have wandered amidst its lovely valleys -and mountains, will deny. - -The early history of this interesting country is shrouded in much -mystery, and to place accurately and date many events is a matter of -very considerable difficulty, and in some cases of well-nigh -impossibility, owing to the fragmentary nature of many of the existing -records, and the contradictory nature of the accounts and evidence -afforded by these. The greatest care, however, has been taken to make -the dates given as accurate as possible, and the best authorities and -descriptions of events have been consulted. Amongst others the works -of Dr. Franz Wieser, Hans Semper, Von Alpenburg ("Mythen und Sagen -Tirols"), Perini ("Castles of Tyrol"), Weber ("The Land of Tyrol"), an -excellent and interesting anonymous guide to Salzburg, Scherer, Albert -Wolff, V. Zingerle, Steub ("Die Verfassung Tirols"), Miller, and the -excellent publications of the Tirol and Salzburg Landesverbaende für -Fremdenverkehr, and other organizations. - -The spelling of names has presented much the same difficulty as the -correct dating of events. There are several, and in some cases many, -ways of spelling a large number of these. That of the latest edition -of Baedeker has been adopted where this has been the case and doubt -has existed. - -The author's especial thanks are due to Herr L. Sigmund, the Secretary -of the Austrian Travel and Information Bureau, not only for much -valuable information, but also for practical assistance whilst -travelling in Tyrol, facilities afforded for research, and the use of -some excellent photographs. - -To W. Baillie Grohman, Esq., of Schloss Matzen, Brixlegg, the -well-known authority upon Tyrol, for the settlement of several -disputed dates and accounts of historical events. Also for permission -to make use of information (not otherwise easily procurable) contained -in his exhaustive work "Tyrol, the Land in the Mountains," and for the -beautiful photograph of Schloss Matzen reproduced as one of the -illustrations in this present volume. - -To Dr. Richard Muendl, Imperial Councillor, Chief Inspector of the -Imperial Southern Railway, and a member of the German and Austrian -Alpine Society, for many valuable notes upon the Dolomite Region -incorporated in Chapter X. - -To Dr. Otto Rosenheim the author's thanks are given for permission to -reproduce some beautiful photographs of Tyrol scenery and Tyrolese -subjects in place of less pictorial work by the author himself. - -To many others, who gave information to the author during his travels -in Tyrol, relating to many interesting matters, acknowledgment is also -here gratefully made. - - C. H. - _June, 1909_ - - - - -CONTENTS - - - PAGE - - CHAPTER I - - THE ROMANCE AND HISTORY OF TYROL FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES - DOWN TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY 1 - - - CHAPTER II - - TYROL FROM ITS INCORPORATION BY AUSTRIA AS A PART OF THE - EMPIRE TO THE PRESENT TIME 33 - - - CHAPTER III - - SOME CHARACTERISTIC LEGENDS, CUSTOMS, AND SPORTS 52 - - - CHAPTER IV - - INNSBRUCK, ITS HISTORY, PEOPLE AND TREASURES 71 - - - CHAPTER V - - THE ENVIRONS OF INNSBRUCK--CASTLE AMBRAS AND ITS - TREASURES--IGLS: A QUAINT LEGEND CONCERNING ITS CHURCH--THE - STUBAI VALLEY, AND SOME VILLAGES--HALL AND ITS SALT - MINES--SPECKBACHER'S OLD HOME--ST. MICHAEL 113 - - - CHAPTER VI - - SALZBURG, ITS HISTORY AND ROMANCE 147 - - - CHAPTER VII - - THE ENVIRONS OF SALZBURG--HELLBRUNN, ITS UNIQUE FOUNTAINS - AND GARDENS--THE CASTLE OF ANIF--THE GAISBERG--THE - KAPUZINGERBERG--THE MOZART-HÄUSCHEN--THE MÖNCHSBERG - --SALZBURG CHURCHES 176 - - - CHAPTER VIII - - SOME TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF SOUTH TYROL--MERAN, BOZEN, - KLAUSEN, BRIXEN, SPINGES, STERZING, MATREI 192 - - - CHAPTER IX - - SOME TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF WALSCH-TYROL: TRENT, ITS HISTORY, - COUNCIL, AND BUILDINGS--ROVEREDO AND DANTE--ARCO--RIVA 233 - - - CHAPTER X - - AMONG THE DOLOMITES, WITH NOTES UPON SOME TOURS AND - ASCENTS 254 - - - CHAPTER XI - - THROUGH THE UNTER-INNTHAL: KUFSTEIN--KUNDL--RATTENBERG, - AND THE STORY OF WILHELM BIENER--BRIXLEGG, AND ITS - PEASANT DRAMAS--THE FAMOUS CASTLE OF MATZEN--ST. - GEORGENBERG, AND ITS PILGRIMAGE CHURCH--CASTLE TRATZBERG - --SCHWAZ 281 - - - CHAPTER XII - - THROUGH THE OBER-INNTHAL: ZIRL, ITS CHURCH, LEGENDS, AND - PAINTED HOUSES--THE MARTINSWAND AND MAXIMILIAN--SCHARNITZ - --LANDECK--BLUDENZ--BREGENZ AND ITS LEGEND OF THE MAID 311 - - - INDEX 329 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - FACING PAGE - - IN COLOUR - - - THE GOAT HERD, KASTELRUTH, NEAR BOZEN _Frontispiece_ - - VIEW FROM THE RITTEN, LOOKING SOUTH-WEST 28 - - THE SCHWARZHORN, SOUTH TYROL 40 - - A VIEW OF THE TYROL ALPS 54 - - THE ORTLER FROM THE MALSER HEIDE 68 - - MOONRISE IN TYROL 94 - - A PINE WOOD NEAR INNSBRUCK 108 - - MOUNTAIN POOL ON THE RITTEN 128 - - A QUIET PASTURE 166 - - WINTER NEAR MERAN 192 - - A SOUTH TYROL FARMSTEAD 208 - - SUMMER-TIME NEAR ST. ULRICH, GRÖDENERTHAL 226 - - ALPENWIESE, ON THE SEISER ALP 256 - - MOUNT LATEMAR 276 - - A WAYSIDE SHRINE IN A PINE WOOD 298 - - AUTUMN IN SOUTH TYROL 314 - - - IN MONOTONE - - A VILLAGE ON THE BRENNER 10 - _From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim_ - - YOUNG TYROL 18 - _From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim_ - - A WAYSIDE SHRINE, TYROL 24 - _From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim_ - - ABOVE THE ARLBERG TUNNEL 32 - - SUNSET ON A TYROLESE LAKE 36 - _From a Photograph by Clive Holland_ - - A TYPICAL TYROLESE LANDSCAPE 36 - _From a Photograph by Clive Holland_ - - THE TRISANNA VIADUCT AND CASTLE WIESBERG 72 - - A PEEP OF THE ZILLERTHAL 72 - - THE FAMOUS "GOLDEN ROOF," INNSBRUCK 78 - - A TYPICAL INNSBRUCKER 88 - - VIADUCT ON STUBAI RAILWAY 130 - - VIEW OF THE GROSSGLOCKNER 130 - - THE MARKET PLACE, HALL 134 - - THE HALL VALLEY--WINTER 142 - - MOZART'S HOUSE IN THE MAKART PLATZ, SALZBURG 152 - _From a Photograph by Clive Holland_ - - ONE OF THE FINEST DOORS OF THE STATE APARTMENTS IN THE - FORTRESS, SALZBURG 164 - _From a Photograph by Clive Holland_ - - MOUNTAIN PASTURES 178 - _From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim_ - - HOHEN-SALZBURG AND THE NONNBERG 182 - _From a Photograph by Clive Holland_ - - SALZBURG MARKETWOMEN 190 - _From a Photograph by Clive Holland_ - - MERAN 198 - - SCHLOSS TYROL, NEAR MERAN 202 - - A STREET IN BOZEN 206 - - ST. CYPRIAN AND THE PEAKS OF THE ROSENGARTEN 212 - - MISURINA LAKE 262 - _From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim_ - - A ROAD THROUGH THE DOLOMITES 264 - - A PEEP OF THE DOLOMITES 270 - _From a Photograph by Clive Holland_ - - THE LANGKOFEL 272 - _From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim_ - - A PEEP OF KITZBUHEL 286 - - SCHLOSS MATZEN 294 - _By kind permission of W. A. Baillie Grohman, Esq._ - - LANDECK AND ITS ANCIENT FORTRESS 320 - - CHURCH INTERIOR, TYROL 324 - _From a Photograph by Clive Holland_ - - - - -TYROL AND ITS PEOPLE - - - - -CHAPTER I - - THE ROMANCE AND HISTORY OF TYROL FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES - DOWN TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY - - -As early as the eighth century Tyrol received a name which could not -be bettered as descriptive of its scenery and institutions--"das Land -im Gebirge," the Land in the Mountains. Fascinating alike is the -scenery of Tyrol and its history. When one crosses the Swiss frontier -by the Arlberg route one at once enters upon a land of mountains, -rivers, and pleasant valleys. And with equal truth it may be said that -when one crosses the frontier of Tyrolese history one is at once -plunged in the midst of stirring, romantic, and gallant deeds enacted -throughout the centuries from that far-off age, when the Cimbri -penetrated and traversed the country and swept into north-eastern -Italy, down almost to our own time. - -That Tyrol should have proved the battle-ground of nations is, of -course, largely due to its geographical position. In early days it -formed a "buffer state" between the Roman empire and the territory of -the Cimbri and Alemanni. - -The question of the original inhabitants of Tyrol is still a much -debated one, and appears to be as far off final settlement as ever; -and this notwithstanding the enormous amount of interest which has -been manifested in the subject by scientists, archæologists, and -students during the last two centuries. Whether they were Cimbri, -Etruscans, or Celts is still doubtful, although many learned -authorities--more especially linguists--incline to the view that the -earliest inhabitants were mainly of the Ligurian race, who were -followed by Illyrians and Etruscans. - -And also regarding the manners, customs, and general characteristics -of these early inhabitants, whoever they may have been, very little -conclusive evidence is yet available. By both Greek and Roman writers -they were referred to as Rhætians, in common with the inhabitants of -Eastern Switzerland; and Horace himself speaks of "The Alpine Rhæti, -long unmatched in battle." Thus it is that the most ancient name by -which Tyrol is known is that of Rhætia. - -[Sidenote: INVASION OF THE CIMBRI] - -To the Romans, however, all-conquering though they were, little was -known of the country until the Cimbri penetrated its mountains and -traversed its valleys and passed on their way to the north-eastern -frontier of Italy about 102 B.C. - -By what route these barbarians crossed the Alps on their march to -invade north-eastern Italy there has been as much discussion as over -the question of the original inhabitants of Tyrol. And, although the -event to which we refer occurred scarcely a century prior to the -conquest of Tyrol by the Romans there is little information other than -of a speculative character to throw light upon the question at issue. -For many years the weight of opinion was in favour of the contention -that the Cimbri entered Southern Tyrol and eventually reached the -Venetian plains by the Reschen Scheideck and the Vintschgau, but the -later researches of Mommsen have served to give additional, if not -absolutely conclusive, weight to the view that the Brenner was the -route taken by the Cimbri[1] on their way southward from their -Germanic fastnesses, just as it was undoubtedly the route, but, of -course, reversed, chosen by the Romans under Drusus by which to enter -Tyrol on their march of conquest. - -One piece of evidence which would appear to be of considerable weight, -and as conclusively favouring Mommsen's view, is the fact that the -Brenner route forms not only the one of lowest altitude, but also the -only one by which the whole Alpine system and its parallel chains can -be crossed by passing over one chain alone, and in no other spot in -the range do two valleys on either side cut so far into the centre of -the principal chain of the Alps. - -Moreover, from Plutarch's "Marius" one learns the spot where the Roman -general, Quintus Lutatius Catullus, and his legions, which were sent -from panic-stricken Rome to check the advance of the invaders, first -encountered the Cimbri on the banks of the River Adige between Verona -and near the foot of the Brenner. The encounter ended in the triumph -of the host of skin-clad invaders who descended the snow-slopes of the -mountains with an onslaught so terrible that even the trained and -well-armed hosts of Rome had to give way before them. But the power of -Rome was not easily shaken, and the triumph of the Cimbri was but -brief. Their southward march was destined very soon to meet with so -severe a check that further advance on Rome, or into the heart of -Italy, was rendered impossible. In 101 B.C., the year following their -appearance in the beautiful province of Venetia, where they created, -so historians tell us, a terrible panic, the Roman arms triumphed at -Vercelli, when the invaders, led by Bojorich, suffered a crushing -defeat in one of the bloodiest battles ever fought, in which it is -said 320,000 were slain, and were driven out of Italy. - -The moral effect of this invasion upon the Rhætians, through whose -territory the Cimbri had passed, bore fruit a few years later, when -they attempted the same tactics, making frequent raids into Roman -territory. Some sixty years after the incursion of the Cimbri they -were defeated and driven back into their valleys and mountains by the -Roman general, Munatius Plancus; and a few years later, in 36 B.C., -not only was a fresh raid repulsed, but the invaders were followed -home, and a considerable portion of the district in the neighbourhood -of what is now known as Trent was taken possession of by the Roman -forces. - -[Sidenote: ROMAN CONQUEST OF TYROL] - -The Rhætians, however, were a hardy, valorous, and pugnacious tribe, -and so frequent were their attacks upon the Roman forces left to hold -the conquered country that the Emperor Augustus, about twenty years -after the subjection of the Trent district, decided as a measure of -self-protection on the conquest of the whole of Rhætia, as far as the -River Danube. - -And for this work he deputed his two stepsons, Drusus and Tiberius. -The campaign, historians are agreed, was planned with great skill, and -probably by the Emperor himself. The Roman forces were divided, one -portion, under Drusus, entering Tyrol from the south, having Tridentum -(Trent) as its base; and the other, under Tiberius, delivering its -attack from the west across what is now Switzerland. Tiberius took -this route (the most direct, though a difficult one) because at that -time he was absent from Italy, in Gaul, as governor. Drusus had a more -easy task, and pushed his way up the wide valley of the River Adige[2] -to the present site of Bozen. His objective was the Pass of the -Brenner, which, once seized, would give him the command of the -country. His advance was not, however, made without opposition, for -the Breones and Genones, who dwelt in the vicinity of the Brenner, -attacked the Roman forces, and a fierce battle and series of -skirmishes ensued. Horace, in Book IV., Ode 14 and 4, gives a vivid -if, possibly, highly coloured account of the struggle which took place -in the gorge near Bozen. The river Icarous ran red with the blood of -both conquerors and conquered. And--as has been the case on many -subsequent occasions when fighting has had to be done by the -Tyrolese--the women played a valorous part, even, according to the -historian, Florus, throwing their infant children into the faces of -the Roman soldiery when other weapons failed. - -The campaign of the two stepsons of Augustus resulted in the complete -and final conquest of Tyrol. The victory, won in the narrow gorge of -the Eisack, was commemorated in the name of the bridge _Pons Drusi_ -spanning the river, hard by which now stands the interesting mediæval -town of Bozen. - -Successful as Drusus' forces were, none the less so were those of -Tiberius. There, however, is less record of his battles, and the -actual ground on which they were fought forms still matter for -conjecture. And equally uncertain is the exact spot where the two -victorious generals ultimately met. It is, however, thought by several -reliable authorities to have been somewhere in the valley of the Inn, -and probably not far distant from the present site of Innsbruck. This -view is made the more probable from the circumstance that a Roman post -was established at Wilten (now a suburb of Innsbruck) then known as -Veldidena. - -Here probably both armies rested after a campaign of great fatigue and -severity owing to the nature of the ground over which it was fought -and the stubborn resistance offered by the inhabitants. - -Soon Veldidena, from a halting-place of armies, became a town with -houses of considerable size, temples, baths, and surrounding _vallæ_, -or earthen fortifications formed to defend the inhabitants from sudden -attack. Although precautions of the nature we have indicated were -taken wherever a Roman post or station was placed, there is no -historical data to show that the Breones and other adjacent tribes who -were thus brought under the Roman sway did not very speedily -accommodate themselves to the new condition of things and become good -and peaceful citizens of Rome. It appears probable, however, that the -Rhæti did not adapt themselves to the altered conditions as speedily -as did their northern neighbours, the inhabitants of Noricum, with -whom certain Roman habits and customs (including the system of -municipal government) already obtained. - -From the evidence adduced by several diligent historians and from that -of one comparatively modern writer[3] in particular it is almost -certain that after the sanguinary and decisive battle on the banks of -the Eisack Tiberius set his face once again westward to resume his -governorship of Gaul, leaving his brother, Drusus, to continue the -subjection of Tyrol, and ultimately to found the important settlement -of Augusta Vindelicorum, now known as Augsburg. Here the Roman general -not only threw up a fortified camp, but also built a forum to -encourage commerce; and soon the settlement became the most important -Roman station to the north of the Central Alps. - -Some writers, doubtless bearing in mind the hardihood and bravery of -the native inhabitants and the mountainous and thus easily defended -nature of the ground the Roman legions had to traverse and fight over, -have expressed some surprise at the comparative ease with which Drusus -and Tiberius appear to have accomplished the conquest of the country. -More perfect discipline and arms of greater effectiveness will not, -however, we think, altogether account for this, for history has over -and over again proved that knowledge of the ground by the defenders -and mountainous regions count heavily against successful attacks on -the part of an invader. It can only therefore be supposed that the -various tribes who formed the inhabitants of Rhætia were either -antagonistic to one another or at least were not welded together in a -common cause against the invading Roman hosts, and thus the country -was conquered and kept in subjection with greater ease than would -otherwise have been the case. - -As a result of the invasion by Drusus and Tiberius and the Roman -legions the tract of country then and for some considerable time -afterwards known as Rhætia, but now known as Tyrol and the Vorarlberg, -ultimately became Romanized, and by the making of the Brenner Post -Road, which was constructed by the direction of the Emperor Augustus -between Verona and Augsburg (Augusta Vindelicorum), communication -between the Germanic Empire and Italy was opened up. Thus was the -lowest and most accessible of the passes over the mountains which -separated Italy from the barbaric regions beyond crossed by one of -those splendid military roads, which has endured nearly two thousand -years until the present day. - -[Sidenote: ROMAN OCCUPATION] - -The Roman occupation of Rhætia lasted for five centuries. Under the -rule of Rome the inhabitants learned much of those arts which remained -the heritage of conquered races long after the sway of the great Roman -Empire had come to an end. And traces of that rule, in the form of -weapons, ornaments, articles of jewelry and the toilet, and other -relics have from time to time come to light throughout the portions of -Tyrol settled by the Romans. - -Soon along the great Brenner Road, which formed a highway from Italy -to the northern lands beyond Tyrol, activity evinced itself. One of -the most important of the early stations upon it was Veldidena -(Wilten), where the road after crossing the main range of mountains -emerges from the Alpine gorge on the northern side into a wide and -pleasant valley. From this point--close to which, later on, the -capital of Tyrol was destined to be founded--the great Brenner Post -Road branched. One fork led by two divergent ways to the same -objective--Augsburg. The other led in a north-westerly direction by -way of Masciacum (Matzen) and Albianum (Kufstein) to Pons Aeni, which -in all probability closely approximates to the present-day site of -Rosenheim. This road ran down the wide Inn valley, nowadays known as -the Unter Innthal to differentiate it from the valley of the Upper Inn -which runs from the frontier of Switzerland to Innsbruck. - -It was along the great military road leading from Verona to Augsburg -that the chief Rhæto-Roman stations were placed. Amongst these were -Tridentum (Trent), Pons Drusi (Bozen), Vilpetenum (Sterzing), Matrejum -(Matrei), Scarbio (Scharnitz), Veldidena (Wilten). - -At first, doubtless, these outposts of Roman civilization were little -more than isolated fortresses, or even perhaps merely _speculæ_ or -watch towers, and of these many examples still remain, from which not -only could the road and its approaches be reconnoitred, but also -signals both by day and by night could be made. In the first case by -means of smoke or semaphores, and in the second by bonfires kindled in -cressets or on the hillside itself. - -[Sidenote: THE BRENNER PASS] - -Another highway into Tyrol through the Vintschgau came to be known as -the Via Claudia Augusta, which name was also improperly applied to a -portion of the Brenner Road. After much contention we think it is now -generally accepted that Mommsen, who has investigated and weighed the -evidence with astonishing care, is correct in assuming that the only -portion of the road via the Reschen-Scheideck Pass which should be -called the Via Claudia Augusta is that traversing the Vintschgau -Valley. The road was constructed not in the reign of Augustus, who -initiated the Brenner Road, but in that of his grandson, the Emperor -Claudius, about A.D. 46-47. It was intended to connect up the River Po -with the River Danube by the Reschen-Scheideck route, and along it at -various times since the middle of the sixteenth century milestones of -Roman origin have been discovered. Though from the fact that little -reference is made to it by the better-known Roman writers of the -period, one may assume that the Via Claudia was of quite secondary -importance to the Brenner Road. But nevertheless it seems probable -that it was the route used for the transportation of stores for the -Roman forces of occupation during the fifth century not long prior to -the evacuation of the country. The Brenner Road for a considerable -period after its construction appears to have been rather a highway -for commerce than a military road in the usual sense of the term. - -The chief article exported from Tyrol was salt from the still famous -salt mines at Hall, near Innsbruck, on the northern bank of the Inn. -There were also sent southward into Italy raw hides, timber, Alpine -herbs used in the preparation of medicines, liqueurs, and the purposes -of the toilet; and dairy produce of various kinds, of which cheese was -probably (according to Pliny) one of the chief articles. In those -far-off days, too, much excellent wine was grown far further north in -Tyrol than nowadays when the vine is not cultivated, for vintage -purposes at all events, further north than the southern slope of the -Brenner. - -In Roman times the Brenner also formed a link between Aquileia, one of -the most flourishing and important seaport cities on the Adriatic, and -Noricum. As did also another, then important but nowadays almost -deserted route, that of the Plöcken Pass, of which it is believed -Cæsar made frequent use. Along this several important stations were -founded, amongst them Tricesimum, Julium Carnicum (Zuglio), Aguntum -(Innichen), Lonicum (Lienz) and Sebatum (Schabs). Time, however, was -destined to divert the trade from the Plöcken Pass route to that of -the Brenner, and the settlements along the former gradually declined -in importance. - -As we have before stated, the Brenner Pass was not originally used so -much for military purposes as was afterwards the case. And it is not -until the latter half of the second century of the Christian Era that -we find it assuming importance as a military highway. Then the -frequent incursions southward of various Germanic tribes caused the -Romans to fully comprehend the strategical value of northern Rhætia. - -Two decades at least were occupied in the reconstruction of the -surface and bridges along the road which had owed its origin to the -Emperor Augustus, and the result was the building of a highway -suitable for the speedy passage and massing of large bodies of troops. -Of the stations which were founded along it we have already spoken, it -only remains to say that these were supplemented by "posts" which were -dotted here and there as they were along most other roads made by -Roman builders. They were, however, chiefly used for military and -state rather than for ordinary purposes. - -An interesting writer,[4] who has made the history of the Brenner a -special study, has thrown considerable light upon the inns and -hostelries which little by little sprang up to meet the requirements -of the travelling public of those days, who were not, as a rule, -permitted to make use of the official posts. Apparently, these refuges -from the other alternative of spending a night upon the road were by -no means luxurious. In fact, they were probably far otherwise, and -their chief redeeming feature was the undoubted cheapness of the -accommodation they offered. It could not be considered an extravagant -charge for a night's lodging with food of sorts when the bill amounted -to rather less than the equivalent of an English halfpenny! a sum -which would nowadays surprise the modern _oste_ or innkeeper of the -Italian Tyrol as much as his own charges would the Roman wayfarer of -long ago. - - [Illustration: A VILLAGE ON THE BRENNER] - -[Sidenote: ROMAN REMAINS] - -On the heels of Roman civilization, represented by commerce and -travel, which was destined not only to permeate conquered Rhætia, but -to penetrate the regions beyond, in course of time there sprang into -existence a fortress here and a castle there which not only served to -hold the land, but also to encourage and initiate civilization and -bring security to those residing in its immediate vicinity. Of -these, happily for the historian and antiquarian, many traces yet -remain. All along the Brenner the Romans found and were not slow to -seize upon natural coigns of vantage where their unexampled skill as -military builders and engineers permitted them to speedily convert not -easily accessible spurs of the mountains into impregnable fortresses. -Upon some of the castles, the ruins of which nowadays serve to render -these rocky crags of undying interest, the stars must have looked down -ere the dawn of the Christian Era. - -Of the occupation of Rhætia by the Romans, unfortunately comparatively -few authentic details have come down to us. But long ere the power of -Rome had waned, never to reassume its pristine greatness, the problem -of resistance to the invasion from the Teutonic tribes to the north -and north-east had become a very real one. Towards the end of the -third century A.D. the Alemanni crossed the Danube and threatened -Rhætia, and through it Italy. They were, it is true, defeated by the -Emperor Maximianus, but the check inflicted was but temporary. About -A.D. 260 Rhætia was invaded several times by the same barbarian tribe, -and on one occasion, at least, Tyrol was ravaged from end to end, and -the invaders afterwards entered Italy, which they penetrated as far -south as Ravenna, having first plundered and destroyed Verona. In the -reign of Claudius (about 269) there was yet another invasion, and -although the forces of Rome ultimately proved victorious in the -struggle with the Teutonic hordes in a battle fought at Naïssus on the -borderland of Tyrol and Italy, when 320,000 are said to have been -slain, there was no lasting peace. - -The inroads of the Goths vexed many a quickly succeeding Emperor in -the days when reigns were scarcely to be reckoned as frequently by -years as by months, and it was not until the reign of Aurelianus that -the Goths were driven out of Rhætia and Vindelicia. - -Under succeeding Roman rulers there were other raids by the Goths, -and then at last along the roads of Rhætia and over the passes of the -Brenner and the Plöcken poured the invading hosts which were destined -to bring about the eclipse of the powerful Empire which had for so -many centuries controlled the destinies of the greater part of the -then known world. - -Just as in our own land, history is almost silent for the period -immediately following the departure of the Roman legions, drawn off to -save Rome, if possible, from the invading hosts of the Goths and Huns, -so was it in Tyrol. Of the years of devastation by fire and sword -which succeeded the withdrawal of the Roman forces from Rhætia there -have come down to us but very scanty details. During this period much -of Roman art and civilization was undoubtedly blotted out by the -barbarian hordes; and, indeed, so far as can be ascertained, little of -either was ultimately left in Rhætia. - -Theodoric, the Ostrogothic leader, who had conquered Italy in about -489, planned Rhætia and the Brenner as a barrier against the attacks -of northern invaders, a tribe of whom (the Baiovarii) ultimately -possessed themselves of Vindelicia and Rhætia as far as the southern -slope of the Brenner Pass. About this same period--the middle half of -the sixth century--a very considerable portion of north-eastern Italy -and that part of Rhætia in the vicinity of Tridentum (Trent) was -seized by the Longobards or Lombards. Their Italian Empire lasted for -two centuries, and eventually included the larger portion of what is -nowadays known as the Italian Tyrol. - -Meantime, the Baiovarii or Bavarians had conquered the upper part of -Rhætia, and in the beginning of the seventh century their Duke, -Garibaldi II., succeeded in checking the frequent inroads of the -Slavs, although he did not succeed in entirely excluding them from the -country; in the eastern portion of which they remained for a -considerable period. Towards the end of the eighth century (about 789) -the whole of what is now known as Tyrol came under the sovereignty of -Charlemagne, who crushed the Lombards, and a few years later succeeded -in also subduing the Baiovarii. - -During the centuries of internecine warfare, with its concomitants of -rapine and chaos, which succeeded the evacuation of Rhætia by the -Roman forces, most of the original inhabitants or peaceably disposed -Romanized Rhætians fled with other fugitives from the southern or -northern plains to the valleys and byways amid the mountains which -hitherto probably had been almost if not entirely unpopulated. Here -they settled, leaving the main routes open to the passage of the -Teutonic invaders bent on the plunder of the Italian cities and -plains, who, we may imagine, did not greatly trouble themselves -regarding the byways or waste time in conquering those who had thus -hidden themselves amid the higher Alpine valleys and fastnesses. - -The result of this is seen in the circumstance that whilst in many -cases the out-of-the-way places and villages to this day preserve -their original Romanized Rhætian names, those upon the main routes of -travel have in many instances a purely Teutonic nomenclature. - -[Sidenote: "THE LAND IN THE MOUNTAINS"] - -The great Empire which Charlemagne created had strangely enough no -natural delimitations, and when it was divided, in A.D. 806, into -three portions amongst his sons, the division was not made upon any -usually recognized system or plan. Tyrol still was unknown by that -name, the country about that time being known as "Das Land im -Gebirge," or "The Land in the Mountains." The immediate successors to -the divided empire of Charlemagne were far less able than he to cope -with the anarchy which so frequently overwhelmed south-eastern and -north-eastern Europe in those days. There was practically no such -unity as now prevails, and, owing to this, the powerful nobles and -ecclesiastics gradually succeeded in dividing up the land amongst -themselves according to the almost universal custom of the Middle -Ages. - -The records of Tyrolese history of the period are, however, so -wretchedly meagre that few positive and uncontrovertible facts have -come down to us regarding the events which immediately followed the -partition of Charlemagne's Empire amongst his sons. That the Brenner -Pass and Tyrol formed a sort of highway for successive invaders of -Italy, who swarmed across it from the East and North, there is, -however, little reason for doubt. As has been very truly said, "What -these vast expeditions, consisting of more or less disorderly masses -of curiously mixed races, all in the panoply of war, all eager for -booty, even if bent on a peaceable mission, meant for the countries -through which they slowly ate and robbed their way, it is not quite -easy to picture to one's self in these civilized days, when, even in -the fiercest war, the non-combatant has no reason to go in fear of a -violent death or having his women outraged before his eyes, and his -house razed to the ground." That such things took place in Tyrol is -made almost certain from the statements of contemporary writers, -amongst others, Gottfried von Viterbo, Vincenz von Prague, and Otho -von Freising. - -[Sidenote: OLD-TIME TRAVELLERS] - -It is the custom for most people to imagine that the "extras" for -lights, tips to servants, and attendance which so often makes the -present-day hotel bill exasperating, are a modern institution. This -is, however, not the case, for some most interesting and illuminating -diaries of early travel which were discovered in 1874 amongst the -archives of the monastery of Cividate show that at the commencement of -the thirteenth century there were a succession of inns already -existing along the Brenner route, where travellers could not only -obtain lodgment and entertainment, but even purchase necessary -medicines. There are also entries for lights, attendance, and -gratuities, which probably vexed the soul of the ecclesiastical -diarist we have referred to as much as they do modern travellers. - -Of the types who tramped or rode along the great Tyrol highway and -lodged at the inns, we have fortunately a fairly detailed and -accurate picture handed down to us. If only there had been a Tyrolese -Chaucer what a record might have been preserved! From the diaries of -the Bishop of Passau (whose notes we have quoted), however, we -gratefully gather that in addition to the ordinary itinerant merchants -and countryfolk there were bard musicians of both sexes, conjurers -(more or less skilful, and many of them charlatans), singers, -mendicant friars (some of little holiness), and the far-famed -minnesingers who for a considerable period had a great vogue at Courts -and castles. Along this famous high-road of the Brenner and through -Tyrol passed, during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, many of the -pilgrims and Crusaders bound for or returning from Palestine or some -distant shrine of peculiar merit or holiness. - -[Sidenote: EARLY TYROLESE RULERS] - -One of the chief amongst the many changes and reforms instituted by -Charlemagne was the sub-division of the countries he had conquered and -welded together to form his Empire into margravates or departments -which he placed under the rule of his nobles and other officials whom -he appointed for the purpose. Although this system undoubtedly worked -well during his powerful sway, after his death and during the anarchy -and dissension which distinguished the reigns of his immediate -successors what might have been expected happened. The more powerful -of the nobles and officials and their descendants soon commenced to -regard their offices as of the nature of hereditary appointments, and -in consequence with the development of this idea small dynasties were -gradually founded, and towards the close of the tenth century three of -these had sprung into existence in Tyrol. These three Countships or -_Grafschaften_ were of Andechs, Eppan, and Tyrol, and the country was -eventually divided up amongst them and the great ecclesiastical lords -of the Sees of Trent, Brixen, and Coire. - -As is the case with so much of early Tyrol history and events, very -scanty information of a reliable character has come down to us -regarding the origin of these three great families of nobles who held -sway in the country. Nor is it for the purpose of this book necessary -to enquire closely into the evidence we have. The origin of the family -of Andechs is almost entirely unknown, although for a considerable -period they were the most powerful of the three families we have -named. The Eppans are believed to have been descendants of a natural -son of a Duke of Bavaria, and their long and bloody feud with the -Bishops of Brixen on account of lands taken from them and given to the -See is enshrined in Tyrol history and legend. - -The third family, the Counts of Tyrol, though originally by no means -the most important, was destined to outlast the other two, and -eventually to become possessed of most of the country and give its -name to ancient Rhætia. Although even in the days of the Roman -occupation there appears to have been a Castle Tyrol, which was the -residence of a centurion, the family, as it is generally known, is -supposed to have taken its origin from Count Hunfried who lived in the -reign of Charlemagne, and was also Count of Vintschgau. This noble -came into prominence on the division of Charlemagne's Empire amongst -his three sons; but it appears to be probable that it was not until -the middle part of the thirteenth century that one of the owners of -Castle Tyrol or Teriolis first took the title of Counts of Tyrol.[5] - -The earliest reference to the three Counts of Tyrol appears in the -archives about the year 1140, and we find the family dwelling in the -Castle Tyrol or Teriolis, near Meran. It was from this fortress, now -in a ruinous condition except for the chapel and fine porch dating -from the twelfth century, that not only the family took its name but -eventually the whole country came to be known. Gradually one by one -the possessions of the other nobles in Tyrol were taken from them or -became absorbed by marriage in that of the Counts of Tyrol. Until -about 1240 the then reigning Count Albert was able to style himself -Prince Count (or gefürsteter Graf) of Tyrol so widespread and rich -were his possessions. - -The Principality thus formed remained a fief of the German Empire -until the reign of Maximilian I. (1493) when it was incorporated with -the other possessions of the Crown. - -The first of the Prince Counts of Tyrol was successful, in 1248, in -obtaining from the Counts of Andechs the district of the Inn Valley, -once the site of Roman Veldidena, which place tradition asserts was -destroyed about A.D. 452 by the Huns under the leadership of Attila on -their return through Tyrol after their defeat by Aëtius at the battle -of Chalons. - -During the early Middle Ages the Premonstratensian Abbey of Wilten had -been built on the site of the ancient town, and later on the Counts of -Andechs, who had become possessed of land in the neighbourhood on the -banks of the Inn, became the most powerful and influential nobles in -the district. Under them a trading post or centre of commerce was -founded near the bridge over the Inn, the importance of which can be -easily understood when its proximity to the Brenner high-road, a then -busy thoroughfare, is borne in mind. From this bridge over the Inn was -derived the name of the town Innsbruck--afterwards destined to become -the capital of Tyrol--a mention of which appears for the first time in -archives of the year 1327. It was to the foresight and enterprise of -Otto of Andechs that the town owed the walls, towers, and -fortifications which were to stand it in good stead. Count Otto also -built himself a palace, which still is known as Ottoburg. - -Concerning the various princes who reigned over Tyrol in succession to -Count Albert down to Henry, the youngest son of Meinhard II., who, by -marrying the daughter of the King of Bohemia, claimed the throne on -the death of his father-in-law and took the title of king, although -forced to surrender his claims to Bohemia, and rest content with Tyrol -and Carinthia, it is not necessary to say much. This Henry was a -good-natured, easily influenced ruler, who by reason of these -characteristics fell almost entirely into the hands of the more -powerful of his nobles, who by flattery and supplies of money to meet -his spendthrift habits were able to acquire not only influence over -him, but also gain great possessions from and unchecked by him. Under -this ruler Meran became the capital of Tyrol; and Hall, Sterzing, and -other places were raised to the dignity of towns. - -Though easily led, Henry was not without his virtues, for he granted -several privileges which were in the interests of commerce, and under -his rule the hard lots of the villein and working classes were -lightened, and a heritable system of land tenure for the peasant class -devised and established. The effect of this was destined to be -beneficial not only to those it was primarily intended to assist, but -also to the nobles, and Henry himself. For as the nobles seldom or -never paid taxes it followed that, with increased prosperity, the -lower orders (who bore the greater part of the burden of taxation) -could be taxed to a higher degree without suffering in proportion. - -Many stories are current concerning the difficulties into which -Henry's wastrel habits got him. One of them is that he was unable at -Innsbruck to settle the bill of a fish and wine merchant, and as a -last resort gave this man, one Eberhard, the bridge toll, which it is -unnecessary to say formed a valuable consideration. - - [Illustration: YOUNG TYROL] - -[Sidenote: "POCKET MOUTHED MEG"] - -At his death in 1335 he left no male heir, the succession falling to -his daughter Margaret, known to history as "wide (or Pocket) Mouthed -Meg" on account of her remarkably ill-formed mouth. How her mouth -became so ugly is not exactly known. One story states the name was -derived from the word _Maultasche_, in consequence of her having had -her ears (or side of face) boxed or struck. The explanation gains -some weight from the fact that the blow was said to have been struck -her by one of her Bavarian relatives, and the circumstance that she -ultimately left her heritage to her Austrian cousins and not to the -Bavarian branch of the family, thus causing Tyrol to become a part of -the Austrian Empire. - -Eventually, after many abortive attempts to arrange a marriage with -the numerous suitors who were willing to become allied to perhaps the -richest though the ugliest heiress in Europe of that time, for her -inheritance comprised the dukedoms of Goricia, Croatia and Carinthia, -as well as the beautiful land Tyrol, Margaret was married, in A.D. -1330, to the youthful Prince John of Bohemia, the bridegroom being -nine years of age and the bride several years older. The latter was -destined to have a troublous career, ugly as her mouth in some of its -details; and the young couple, when (a few years after the formal -marriage) they came to live together, were almost from the first at -variance. - -John was feeble and of weak intellect, and Margaret as determined and -shameless as were many other women rulers in those times. Plots and -intrigues were rife, the former between the two parties who espoused -the German or Luxembourg (Bohemian) claims, the latter between -Margaret and her courtier and even peasant lovers, some of whom were -given privileges and even lands and patents of nobility by the amorous -princess of the "Pocket Mouth," who made several unsuccessful attempts -to get rid of her husband, until she frightened him into returning to -his own country. This desire accomplished, Margaret commenced to put -in operation her further plans. John was a fugitive, going from castle -to castle in search of shelter or sanctuary, awaiting assistance from -his father or the Luxembourg party, which was favourable to the -Bohemian side of the question. Soon the Emperor Louis, who was the -ruler of the Holy Roman Empire and a deadly enemy of the Bohemians, -saw an opportunity for accomplishing a long-cherished desire, that of -the acquisition of Tyrol. - -He found a ready accomplice in his good-looking, attractive son, who -appeared willing enough to marry another man's wife, however -ill-tempered and ugly, even before the first marriage was formally -declared null and void by the Pope, provided wealth and possessions -were acquired with her. However, when the Pope--who himself had cast -longing eyes on Margaret's possessions--heard of the proposed union, -he not only declined to annul the marriage between John and Margaret, -but threatened the latter with excommunication if she espoused the son -of Louis, who was his implacable foe. There were also reasons of -consanguinity which made the marriage impossible without the Pope's -sanction. Louis, however, not to be thwarted in his desire, set about -to find a bishop willing to defy the Pontiff and bold enough to -solemnize the marriage. Soon he succeeded in persuading the Bishop of -Freisingen both to annul the first marriage and celebrate the second. -Accordingly the Emperor, in whose train were numbers of nobles, set -forth with the bishop mentioned, and also the bishops of Augsburg and -Regensburg, for Tyrol. - -But whilst on the journey and crossing a pass (the Jaufen), which -afforded the quickest route from Sterzing to Margaret's home near -Meran, the Bishop of Freisingen's horse stumbled and threw its rider, -killing him on the spot. This accident so sapped the courage of the -other two bishops (who doubtless considered the event as a direct -message of wrath from Heaven) that they refused to go on with the -scheme upon which they had embarked. - -This did not, however, weaken the determination of either the Emperor -or Louis, who, on his arrival at Castle Tyrol, forced the terrified -resident chaplain to celebrate the marriage, although we are told the -people protested loudly, anticipating terrible punishments for -breaking the laws of the Church and defying the commands of the Pope. - -Nevertheless the event was celebrated with great festivities, and, so -far as one can gather, no immediate wrath from Heaven was experienced -by the evildoers. - -[Sidenote: ERA OF CIVIL WAR] - -During the weak rule of John, the various nobles in Tyrol had gained -great ascendency; had extended their possessions and rights; and had -in fact seriously weakened the sovereign power of their ruler. Louis -proved of very different metal to his precursor. He at once attacked -the nobles, who had aggregated to themselves unlawful or dangerous -authority, devastating their estates, burning and dismantling their -castles and fortresses, and exiling those who did not submit. Civil -war of the most bloodthirsty kind ran riot in Tyrol, and other -disasters in the shape of fire, which destroyed some of the most -important towns, including Meran the capital; swarms of locusts, -plague and earthquake, all afflicted the unhappy and unfortunate land. -It is needless to say that these terrible calamities were esteemed by -many Tyrolese as the direct expression by Heaven of anger at -Margaret's bigamous marriage and defiance of the power of the Church. - -The ravages of the Black Death were not less severe than in other -parts of Southern Europe, and, according to one chronicler, scarcely a -sixth of the population of Tyrol were left alive. As was so often the -case in the Middle Ages, some human scapegoat was sought for and -found; and the very common one was fixed upon--the Jews. The -persecution of this unfortunate race which ensued was of so ruthless a -character that neither women, children, nor the aged were spared, with -the result, we are told, that very few were left alive. - -Then succeeded a period of war. The supporters of the discarded -husband of Margaret--John of Bohemia--were not slow to seek to revenge -themselves upon her, and Tyrol was subsequently invaded by the King of -Bohemia, who was joined by the militant Bishop of Trent with -considerable forces. An active campaign followed, characterized by -great cruelty on the part of the invaders, during which the two chief -towns, Meran and Bozen, were captured and destroyed, and ultimately -Margaret was besieged in her own Castle of Tyrol. It was so admirably -situated for defence that in her husband's absence Margaret, who, with -all her vices and failings, was no coward, was able to defend it -successfully from all assaults, and did so until her husband was able -to return by forced marches, and surprising the besiegers, succeeded -in defeating them and forcing them to retire. The country, however, -suffered terribly during the enemy's retreat, as, in revenge for being -baulked of their prey, they burned and ravaged in every direction, and -spared no man from the sword. Indeed, the history of the campaign -exhibits in the most lurid light the underlying and primitive savagery -of all warfare in the Middle Ages. - -It was to meet the heavy charges arising from the prolonged campaign -and defence of his territory that Louis had to sell or pawn many of -his richest personal possessions, with the result that many nobles -(who provided him with money or other support) gained or regained -valuable privileges and a considerable accession of power and -influence. - -[Sidenote: STORIES ABOUT "MEG"] - -Into the whole course of this war and the history of -Tyrol--interesting and even fascinating though it be--it is impossible -for us to enter. Margaret ultimately (it may be noted) made her peace -with Rome, owing to the influence exercised over the Pope by her -Austrian cousins of the House of Habsburg, the condition of their -mediation being that she should leave to them and not to her Bavarian -cousins her heritage should her son and heir Meinhard pre-decease her, -and die without issue. - -Fate favoured the schemes of the Habsburgs, for both Margaret's -husband Louis and her son died before her, the latter at the early age -of twenty. As an example of the old saw, "Give a dog a bad name and -hang him," popular opinion laid both deaths at Margaret's door. Her -husband died in 1361-2 whilst on a journey to Munich in her company. -This supposed murder was, according to then common report, a _crime -passionel_ arising from Margaret's fear that Louis was about to -compass the death of Conrad of Frauenberg, a noble with whom she had -carried on an intrigue that had been common talk and a scandal for -years. On the death of his father, Meinhard assumed the responsibility -of government; in doing this he appears to have placed, or attempted -to place, some sort of check upon the shameless conduct and intrigues -of his mother, and when he died in January, 1363, his death, like that -of Louis, was laid at his mother's door. Popular opinion, however, has -been proved to have been in error by historians who do not favour the -supposition that she was really guilty of either death; and although -no explanation of the actual cause of Louis's death is forthcoming, -there would appear some evidence for supposing that Meinhard's -untimely end was unromantic and free from mystery, and, in fact, was -the result of drinking cold water whilst overheated from exertion. - -In those days, although news travelled but slowly according to modern -ideas, it was less than a fortnight ere it had reached Vienna, and -Rudolph IV. of Habsburg, by travelling "day and night," was at Bozen -eager to make certain his position as the eldest of the three brothers -to whom his cousin Margaret had agreed to cede Tyrol and her other -wide possessions. - -Around the picturesque, though licentious and uninviting, figure of -"Pocket-Mouthed Meg" has gathered an accretion of traditions and tales -unequalled by those attached to any other Tyrol ruler. But, although -she was for many years so outstanding a figure in the history of her -country and indeed of South-Eastern Europe, strangely few authentic -records or documentary corroboration of these stories have been -discoverable. - -Thus, by the death of Meinhard in 1363, the country became a portion -of Austria under the rule of Rudolph IV., who, though young, was wise -and far-seeing. However, he was not destined to long enjoy the -possessions he had acquired chiefly by skilful diplomacy, and on his -death, two years after his accession, Tyrol was governed jointly by -his two brothers--Leopold and Albert. - -During this dual control the Bavarian relations of Margaret made -frequent incursions into the country, especially in the neighbourhood -of the Unter-Innthal, and in 1369 succeeded in obtaining a large sum -from the Habsburgs at a temporary peace made at Schärding. Ten years -later the dual sovereignty came to an end, the two brothers dividing -the inheritance, Leopold taking Tyrol as his share. He was killed at -the Battle of Sempach on July 9th, 1386, where the Swiss gained so -signal a victory under the leadership of Arnold Von Winkelried. - -[Sidenote: DUKE FREDERICK'S REIGN] - -In 1406 Frederick, Leopold's youngest son, succeeded to the -sovereignty, which during his minority had been held by his elder -brothers and his Uncle Albert, who had ruled the country in so lax a -manner that the nobles gained a great ascendency. - -It was, indeed, no easy task to which Duke Frederick was called. The -nickname bestowed upon him, that of "the Empty Purse," was by no means -an exact description of his financial condition, save during a -comparatively short period of his reign of thirty years. It was given -him at the time he was an outlaw by reason of the ban of the Church, -and was obliged to fly for his life and take refuge amid the -mountains. His was a stormy reign. In the early portion of it he was -at variance with many of the most powerful of his nobles, who resisted -his attempts to curtail the power which they had acquired during his -minority. After the anxieties and hardships which ensued, when the -country was over-run by the Bavarians, and even the capital -threatened, Frederick was destined to have still greater trouble by -reason of his action at the Council of Constance, which was summoned -to settle the momentous questions as to who was the rightful head of -the Church, and who the ruler of the Empire. There were three -claimants for each position, nominated and supported by the rival -factions. The spiritual claimants were John XXIII., Benedict XIII., -Gregory XII.; and the temporal Kings Sigismund of Hungary, Jost of -Moravia, and Wencelaus of Bohemia. - - [Illustration: A WAYSIDE SHRINE, TYROL] - -Of the Ecclesiastical claimants John had Frederick's support, and when -the former, failing to get elected by the Council, had not only to -renounce his claims but flee for his life, Frederick assisted him to -escape from Constance. This act of loyalty to a friend almost cost -Frederick his life, as Sigismund (who of the three candidates had been -elected Emperor) was his enemy, and not only succeeded in persuading -the assembly to declare Frederick's throne forfeited, but also him and -his chief supporters and followers outlaws, to shelter any of whom was -a crime punishable with death. - -Frederick's evil case was made worse and his difficulties immeasurably -increased by the secession to the ranks of his enemies of his brother -Ernest, who had taken the Dukedom of Styria as his portion of the -inheritance. - -Duke Ernest took up the reins of Government of Tyrol, and there ensued -a period of bloodshed and disastrous Civil War in which the peasants -and the lower classes remained firm and loyal supporters of their -ruler Frederick, and the greater number of the nobility espoused the -cause of the usurper Ernest. At length a peace was brought about -between the two brothers, chiefly through the mediation of the -Archbishop Eberhard of Salzburg, and the Duke Louis of Bavaria. The -reconciliation of Frederick and Duke Ernest, whose estrangement had -been brought about by Frederick's action in relation to Pope John at -Constance which had brought him under the powerful ban of the Church, -took place at the castle of the Archbishop at Kropfsberg. - -The remaining portion of Frederick's life appears to have been -peaceable, and notwithstanding his _sobriquet_ of "Empty Purse" he -left a huge fortune in treasure, which some authorities assert was the -greatest amassed by any ruler of those times. He was undoubtedly one -of the most able, and with the peasants and townsfolk most popular, -rulers Tyrol has ever had as a separate principality. He carried on a -struggle throughout his reign against the encroachments of the -nobility upon the lands and liberties of the people, which in itself -was a thing sufficient to gain him the love and loyalty of the great -masses of his subjects, which his affable manners, generosity, and -kindliness served to cement. To him belongs the credit of summoning -the first Tyrolean Landtag of any use or importance, held at Meran in -1423. Subsequently the Landtag was convened at Innsbruck, which town -in consequence gradually came to be regarded as the capital of Tyrol. - -On the death of Frederick he was succeeded by his son Sigismund, then -a mere lad of eleven or twelve years of age. The latter lived for some -seven years at the Court of Vienna under the control of his guardian -the Emperor Frederick III. Whilst in Vienna he became acquainted with -one Æneas Silvius de Piccolomini, afterwards Pope Pius II., a widely -travelled, able but licentious man who had journeyed so far afield as -Scotland, and who poured such glowing descriptions of the beauty of -the ladies of the Scottish Court into the young Duke Sigismund's ears -that he became possessed with a desire to marry a Scotch bride. Thus -it happened that when the daughter of Charles VII., King of France, -died (whom it had been intended by his father he should marry) the -young Duke Sigismund wooed and won Eleanor, daughter of ill-fated -James I. of Scotland, to whom as dowry the Duke gave the historic -castles of Ambras, Imst, and Hörtenburg for life. This gifted princess -lived in Tyrol for a period of more than thirty years, and by her -gentle manners, love of sport, especially hawking and hunting, and -social accomplishments made herself much beloved by her husband's -subjects. Her Court, for the size of the principality over which her -husband ruled, was very large and luxurious. - -During the reign of Sigismund the vast mineral wealth of the -Unter-Innthal district especially became opened up, and this enabled -the Duke to spend lavish sums upon pleasures, entertainments, arts, -and science, which soon caused his Court at Innsbruck to be spoken of -as one of the most refined, gay, and interesting in Eastern Europe. At -the same time Tyrol owed much to Sigismund, as he was a generous -patron of art and employer of artists of all kinds. - -[Sidenote: THE WAR WITH VENICE] - -On the death of his consort Eleanor he married, in 1484, the Princess -Catherine of Saxony, who was both young and beautiful. A man of great -judgment, he yet committed the grave error of provoking a war with the -Venetians, whose trade with Tyrol was an important and valuable asset -in the country's commerce and material prosperity. It arose from the -seizure of some rich silver mines the property of the Venetians in the -Valsugana, and the tense situation arising from this act was -aggravated shortly after, in April 1487, by the forcible seizure of -the goods of Venetian merchants who had come (as was their wont) to -the great fair held at Bozen. Over a hundred and twenty Venetian -merchants were also thrown into prison. In the war which ensued the -Tyrolese were ultimately victorious; but the victory was a Pyrrhic one -as Tyrol lost much by this struggle with the great commercial power of -those remote times. The Venetians took a speedy revenge, "boycotting" -Tyrolese trade, absenting themselves from the fairs and markets, and -avoiding using the Brenner Route which had very materially added to -the wealth of the country. - -Sigismund, as had other rulers of the Mountain Kingdom, fell out of -favour with the Church, owing to a quarrel with the Cardinal Bishop of -Brixen, Nicholas of Cusa, chiefly on account of the latter's -persistent endeavour to exalt the power of the Church at the expense -of the former's temporal authority, and it was only Sigismund's -indifference to religious matters and power in his own country which -enabled him to treat with unconcern if not positive contempt the ban -placed upon him by the Church of Rome. He even went the length of -making war upon the Bishop, and of besieging him in his castle at -Brunneck; and as a consequence was excommunicated by both Pope -Calixtus III. the Courageous and Pius II. - -In Sigismund's declining years he applied himself "to the task of -purchasing salvation in the manner approved by the Church he had -defied, and whose bulls, bans, and mandates he had scorned." He set -about founding monasteries, gave largely to charitable endowments, and -was generous in other ways to a Church which was anxious to pardon the -sinner who was willing to purchase absolution on satisfactory monetary -or other terms. One effect of this great expenditure was to impoverish -the country, which had already been much "drained" by the demands made -upon it by Sigismund's patronage of art, love of women, and lavish -entertainments. - - [Illustration: VIEW FROM THE RITTEN LOOKING S.W.] - -[Sidenote: MAXIMILIAN I] - -Maximilian, his cousin (afterwards the famous Emperor Maximilian I.), -succeeded him on his abdication in 1493. He was in a great measure an -ideal ruler for Tyrol, whose brave, independent people were touched by -the spirit, frankness, and great personal bravery of their new prince. -Fond of war, he was equally devoted to the chivalric jousts and games -of the period, and, if one may believe historians, to these sterner -qualities was united a kindly and approachable disposition which -further endeared him to his people. It was only in the latter portion -of his reign that he lost touch with and hold upon them, and, owing to -the heavy drain that incessant wars and military operations had placed -upon the country, necessitating heavy taxation, became in a measure -unpopular. - -From his biographers one gathers that the Emperor was deeply affected -by the change of attitude of the populace towards him, and he referred -to it bitterly on several occasions. During some considerable time -before his death he always went about accompanied by his coffin, which -he is stated to have described as "the one narrow palace which -architects can design at small cost, and the making of which does not -bring ruin upon princes." - -During the reign of Maximilian to Tyrol was added other and -considerable new territory, including the Ampezzo district; Rovereto; -the three lordships of Rattenberg, Kitzbühel, and Kufstein; the towns -of Riva and Arco; a portion of the present Vorarlberg; and a portion -of the Pusterthal. Maximilian also did something for education in his -capital of Innsbruck, where he built a new palace which was first used -at the time of his second marriage with Maria Bianca Sforza of Milan -in 1494. - -He was succeeded by his two grandsons, the Emperor Charles V. and the -Archduke Ferdinand. The former, however, found his dominions so vast -that he soon resigned his Austrian possessions (including Tyrol) to -his brother Ferdinand, who afterwards became Emperor. The reign of the -latter, though long, was not a happy or prosperous one. The religious -disturbances brought about by the Reformation, which Ferdinand -severely suppressed, and risings of the peasants in consequence, made -his name detested in Tyrol, so that in the War of the Schmalkald the -inhabitants supported Charles V. It was at Innsbruck (after two -unsuccessful attempts to leave Tyrol) that he was surprised by his -treacherous friend Maurice of Saxony, who had marched his army rapidly -into Tyrol intent upon capturing Charles. The latter, who had no army -with him, having arrived at Innsbruck on his way to the Council of -Trent, in order to escape had to leave his palace at dead of night in -torrents of rain in May 1552--a man broken in health and tired of -life. - -It was this Ferdinand who founded the famous Franciscan Church at -Innsbruck with its world-renowned tomb in memory of his grandfather -Maximilian I. - -On the death of Ferdinand, in 1564, he was succeeded on the throne of -Tyrol by his second son who bore his name. A romantic interest -attaches to this Archduke, who after much opposition on the part of -his family married the beautiful daughter of an Augsburg merchant, -Philippina Welser, who ultimately succeeded in winning the Emperor's -sanction to the marriage.[6] - -The thirty-one years' reign of Archduke Ferdinand was chiefly notable -for the encouragement given by him to Art. Indeed, during this period -the country reached its highest culture. The world-famous art -collection now in Vienna, concerning which most authorities are in -agreement that it was the most extensive and beautiful formed up to -that period, owes its existence almost entirely to him. In his Castle -of Ambras, near Innsbruck, he gathered together art treasures that are -now, as regards many examples, almost if not quite unique; and by so -doing ensured his position with posterity as one of the first, most -learned, and most discriminating of art collectors and connoisseurs -the world has known. - -[Sidenote: A ROYAL ROMANCE] - -Ferdinand and his beautiful spouse remained throughout their married -life devoted to each other, although when the former's father, in -1563, recognized the marriage it was agreed that any children born to -the pair should not be recognized as of Royal birth, the alliance -being regarded as morganatic. The story that Philippina died a violent -death seems to have no basis upon fact. - -Ferdinand after the death of his first wife married Anna Katharina -Gonzaga of Mantua, to whose devout tendencies and influence over him -Innsbruck and the neighbourhood owed many of its religious houses and -institutions. - -On the death of Ferdinand, as his and Philippina's children could not -succeed to their father's possessions and title for the reason we have -mentioned, and as there were no children of the marriage with Anna -Katharina, Tyrol reverted in 1595 to the Emperor Rudolph II., who soon -appointed his brother the Archduke Maximilian as Regent. This prince -was the head of the Teutonic Order, and bore the title of -Deutschmeister. After his death Tyrol reverted to the Emperor -Ferdinand II., who in 1622 celebrated his second marriage with -Eleanora Vincenzo of Mantua at Innsbruck. The event was celebrated -with great magnificence even for a period when entertainments of the -kind were veritable triumphs of splendour and art, and the wedding -feast was served by Tyrolese noblemen. - -Ferdinand soon appointed his brother the Archduke Leopold as Regent, -and on his death in 1632 the latter was succeeded by his widow, the -wise and beautiful Archduchess Claudia Felicitas of Medici, who -governed Tyrol during the minority of her two sons. Her chief -counsellor was the brilliant and distinguished Chancellor Wilhelm -Biener. The Archduke Ferdinand Charles came of age (and succeeded to -his estates) in 1646, and in default of male heirs was succeeded by -his brother Francis Sigismund in 1662. The reign of the last named -lasted only three years, and came to a sudden and tragic close on the -very eve of his marriage. Popular opinion ascribed his death to -poison, given to the Archduke by his physician Agricola, the latter, -at the time, being supposed to have been instigated to the crime by -some Italian nobles whom the Archduke had banished from his Court. On -the death of Sigismund the second Tyrolese-Habsburg line of rulers -came to an end. - - [Illustration: ABOVE THE ARLBERG TUNNEL] - -It was then that Tyrol finally came into the possession of the -Emperors of Austria, by whom the ancient title of Prince-Count of -Tyrol and other subsidiary titles are still borne. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] Several well-known authorities still refuse to accept this theory. - -[2] Also called the Eisack. - -[3] Mommsen in his "Corpus Inscriptionum Latinarum." - -[4] W. Von Rodlow. - -[5] This view of the origin of the country's name is, we would add, -disputed by some authorities.--C. H. - -[6] This is disputed by some authorities, but would appear to have -been the case.--C. H. - - - - -CHAPTER II - - TYROL FROM ITS INCORPORATION BY AUSTRIA AS A PART OF THE - EMPIRE TO THE PRESENT TIME - - -During the Thirty Years' War (1618-1648) between the Catholics and -Protestants of Germany, which was renowned for the victories of -Wallenstein and Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden, Tyrol did not altogether -escape its influence though playing no very important part in the -struggle. One result was, however, of considerable importance to a -family of great note in Tyrol. It brought about the ruin of the -Fuggers, whose financial assistance to various rulers of Tyrol and -Eastern Europe had been generally forthcoming when required. Owing to -their possession of the two famous castle-fortresses of Tratzberg and -Matzen their prosperity or otherwise was of considerable importance to -Tyrol. - -From the date (1665) when the country became completely incorporated -as a part of the Austrian Empire it did homage to the Emperor Leopold -I., sole heir of the joint Austro-German possessions. It was during -his reign and on account of this circumstance that Tyrol became deeply -involved in the War of the Spanish Succession, and was the object of -attack on the part of both French and Bavarians, Leopold being the -Austrian claimant to the Spanish throne, and Philip of Anjou, grandson -of Louis XIV., the French aspirant. - -In 1703 the French troops, under General Vendome, entered Tyrol from -the South and unsuccessfully besieged Trent on their way northward to -Austria; and at the same time the Bavarians overran the country by -routes which they had traversed from almost time immemorial when -making their periodic raids upon the Tyrolese. For a considerable -period the invaders were successful, and many villages and castles of -the Unter-Innthal and contiguous districts were destroyed. The capture -of the capital was the cause of the uprising of the Landsturm, or -general levy of the peasants; and during 1703 a number of fierce -engagements were fought between these ill-armed but brave Tyrolese and -the Bavarian and French troops. One of the most noted battles was that -which took place immediately after the Tyrolese had destroyed the -Pontlatz Bridge which spanned the River Inn, by which the Bavarians -were about to cross. In this engagement the latter, under the -leadership of the Elector Maximilian Emmanuel, were utterly routed by -a much inferior force of the Landsturm, and driven back from North -Tyrol. Following up this success the Tyrolese concentrated their -energies upon the French force under General Vendome which they -compelled to retire into Italy. - -The Emperor Leopold I., not wishing to reside for any length of time -at Innsbruck, had created the office of Statthalter or Governor of -Tyrol and Vorarlberg, an office which has been filled ever since till -the present day, with the exception of the period of the French and -Bavarian wars with Austria in the early part of the last century. - -The Emperor did not live to see the ultimate triumph of his forces. He -died in 1705, and was succeeded by his sons Joseph I. and Charles VI. -On the death of the latter in 1740, owing to the fact that with him -the Austrian male line became extinct, the Empress Maria Theresa ruled -in his stead. During her long reign the Vorarlberg became an integral -part of Tyrol owing to the fact that it was an Imperial fief which -reverted to the Crown by natural process on the extinction of the line -of feoffees. Maria Theresa and her husband the Emperor Francis I. -came to Innsbruck in 1765 for the wedding of their son Leopold, Grand -Duke of Tuscany (afterwards the Emperor Leopold II.), with Maria -Ludovica, daughter of Charles III., King of Spain. The Tyrolese and -the Innsbruckers gave a warm welcome to their sovereigns, and the -festivities were upon a most magnificent scale. The gaiety was -destined, however, to be clouded and put an end to by the sudden death -of the Emperor (husband of Maria Theresa), who expired at the palace -immediately after his return from the Italian Opera. It was he, -Francis Stephen of Lorraine, also Grand Duke of Tuscany, who founded -the House of Habsburg-Lorraine, which still rules over the -Austro-Hungarian Empire. - -[Sidenote: REFORMS OF JOSEPH II.] - -On the death of Maria Theresa in 1780 she was succeeded by her son -Joseph II., upon whose accession many innovations were introduced in -Tyrol as well as other portions of his wide empire. His salutary and -liberally conceived reforms, more especially as regarded the Church, -were brought about by a desire to adjust political and religious -affairs and do away with anomalies. - -Inasmuch as Joseph's scheme embraced the suppression or abolition of -numerous priories, monasteries, churches, and other religious -institutions, it is little to be wondered at that his action met with -the most strenuous opposition from the Church whose property was -threatened. One act, the closing of the University of Innsbruck, which -had been founded by Leopold I. in 1677, it is not easy for any one at -the present day to understand. The Emperor Joseph II.'s scheme of -reform was not successful, although it had arisen from honourable -motives and a sincere desire to redress some very crying grievances. - -He was succeeded in 1790 by his brother, the Emperor Leopold II., who -reopened the University, and undid much of the work his predecessor -had accomplished with regard to the suppression of religious houses. -He, however, reigned but two years, and was followed by his son -Francis II. of Germany and Francis I. of Austria. This ruler came to -the throne at a great and unhappy crisis in European history. The -French Revolution was at its height and the ensuing period of the -"blood lustful" Napoleonic Wars made of Europe a vast camp and battle -ground. It was also a period destined, as events proved, to make Tyrol -famous for all time, to develop the best instincts of her people, and -to exhibit the race in a heroic and romantic light. - -To understand the position of Tyrol at this epoch it is necessary to -briefly sketch the events which led up to the struggle as it affected -the "land in the Mountains." Mantua, an Austro-Italian possession, -fell before Napoleon in 1797, and immediately the young general sent -an army under Joubert into Tyrol, the routes into the country being -left almost undefended by the retreat of the Austrian forces towards -Carinthia, after their defeat at Lodi on May 10, 1796. - -[Sidenote: FRENCH INVASION] - -Once more the Landsturm was raised in South Tyrol, and again the -peasant forces (to whom the name of "ragged coats" had been -contemptuously given) engaged in a terrific struggle for their beloved -land with the not only better armed but more numerous detachments of -French and Bavarian invaders. Even the well-tried legions of Napoleon -were destined, however, to find them as redoubtable as had formerly -Maximilian. - -Under the gallant von Worndle the Inn Valley Landsturm was led down -into the Pusterthal, where it was joined by the Austrian forces under -Generals Laudon and Kerpen. Napoleon's troops, although well led, and -possessing all the advantages that experience and a knowledge of -strategy could give them, nevertheless could not withstand the -terrific onslaught and heroic bravery shown by the Tyrolese. A fierce -and bloody engagement was fought at Spinges which resulted in the -triumph of the peasant forces and the utter rout of the invaders, who -were compelled to evacuate the country. About the same time - -another smaller engagement took place near Bozen, where a mere handful -of peasants engaged a much superior force and defeated it. This -otherwise comparatively unimportant event has gained fame and -significance from the fact that this small body of Passeyer peasantry -was led by a tall, broad-shouldered man with a long brown beard, named -Andreas Hofer, who was destined afterwards to play so great and -remarkable a part in the history of his beloved country. - - [Illustration: SUNSET ON A TYROLESE LAKE] - - [Illustration: A TYPICAL TYROLESE LANDSCAPE] - -After the Battle of Spinges hostilities were ended for a time by the -Treaty of Campo Formio, October 17, 1797. - -During this preliminary struggle against the French it is estimated by -several authorities that upwards of 100,000 peasants took up arms in -defence of their country, amongst whom were many women and young -maidens. The total population of Tyrol at that period did not probably -much exceed three quarters of a million. - -The peace secured by the Treaty of Campo Formio did not, however, -endure very long, for early in 1799 the war broke out again, and the -French under General Massena entered Tyrol, on this occasion by way of -Switzerland through the mountain passes, the Bavarians supporting the -invaders by incursions over the frontier in the direction of Salzburg. -In an engagement near Feldkirch in Vorarlberg General Massena was -defeated; and upon making a fresh attack the French, hearing all the -church bells of the district ringing on Easter Eve and mistaking them -for the alarm bells summoning the Landsturm, hastily abandoned their -intentions and retreated across the frontier into Swiss territory. The -victories of Marengo and Hohenlinden on June 14 and December 3 of the -next year, brought about the Treaty of Luneville on February 9, 1801, -by which the Bishoprics of Brixen and Trent (already in a sense -belonging to Tyrol) were made integral parts of the country. - -Hostilities were continued, however, in other parts of Europe, and -the long war dragged on, Napoleon over-running the Continent and more -especially South-Eastern Europe almost unchecked, till Ulm, where the -Austrians were defeated October 17-20, 1805. The French army under -Marshal Ney afterwards entered and occupied Innsbruck. Then came the -disastrous Battle of Austerlitz on December 2, where Napoleon defeated -the combined Russian and Austrian forces. The power of the latter was -shattered, and by the Treaty of Pressburg, December 26, 1805, Tyrol, -which now for upwards of four hundred years had been one of the chief -possessions of the house of Habsburg, was ceded to the victors. The -Bavarians took the northern, and the French the southern portion. Not -only was the country for a time lost to Austria, but even its name was -taken from it. The new owners promptly divided it into three -departments known by the names of the three chief rivers--the Inn, -Eisack, and Adige. - -In the beginning of the year following the Treaty the Bavarians took -formal possession of their new territory. During a period of some -three years the Tyrolese fretted under the rule of their conquerors. -But the time was not spent merely in idle murmurings or in servile -acceptance of the conqueror's yoke. The peasants who had fought so -bravely for their land and liberty in ancient times, and in 1797 and -1799, were eager once more to take the field to recover their lost -freedom, and to drive the usurpers of their beautiful Tyrol for ever -beyond its frontiers. - -[Sidenote: RISE OF ANDREAS HOFER] - -Day by day, week by week, month by month a general rising of the -community was being gradually organized by three men more -particularly, who were each of them destined to become famous, and to -go down to posterity as the saviours of their country. Of these -Andreas Hofer, born of Inn-keeping parents at Sandyland in the -Passeyer Valley in 1765, was destined to outshine both in his life and -death his two companions, named Speckbacher, born at Rinn, and -Haspinger, the tall, red-bearded Capucin monk, known respectively as -"the fire-devil" and "the red beard." - -The task that Hofer and his companions set themselves was no easy one. -The country swarmed not only with the soldiers of the Bavarian -occupation force, but with spies who seem always to spring up whenever -the price of treachery is worth earning. The punishment for men taking -part in any such schemes as that in which Hofer, Speckbacher, and -Haspinger and their faithful companions were engaged in was death. -Death not only for the principals, but death for the humblest -participant. Nevertheless the plan prospered. It is interesting to -remember the very large and important part which was played in the -organization of the peasants' uprising by the Tyrolese innkeepers, or -_wirthe_, who were very dissimilar to the ordinary conception which -English people have of men of their class. They were usually the most -wealthy as well as the most solid members of the village communities -in which they dwelt and kept their _Wirthshaus_, around which, indeed, -much of the social as well as the municipal life of the village -centred. They were better informed than many of their neighbours, for -whatever travellers came to the villages found their way to their -hospitable roofs; and what echoes of the outer world ever reached the -secluded villages filtered its way, as it were, through them. It was -in these men that Hofer found his greatest allies and ablest -assistants. During the three years which succeeded the Bavarian -occupation and the peasant rising, the innkeepers of Tyrol were busy -gathering round them small bodies of trusted men, who, fired by a -common desire to free their country, would, indeed, have suffered -death rather than betray a single word of the secret arrangements of -which they gradually became cognizant. - -When many of the preparations were completed Andreas Hofer commenced a -correspondence with the Government in Vienna--which seemed so -incapable and unwilling to assist the brave people it had seemingly -abandoned in their struggle for freedom--in the person of the -Archduke John. But although Hofer and his companions do not seem to -have received very much definite or material encouragement from the -Emperor or his advisers, they proceeded to Vienna, had several -interviews with the Archduke, who appeared to be most favourably -inclined to their scheme, and at these interviews the plan of campaign -was definitely formulated. In the end Hofer returned to St. Leonard -raised to the dignity of Commander-in-Chief of the national forces, -and with full powers to do what he deemed best in the interests of the -country. - -What he did not, however, secure was any support from Vienna in the -form of arms or disciplined troops with which to leaven his "ragged -coats." The courage of the men who entered upon a campaign against -trained and tried soldiers armed with the most up-to-date weapons of -those times can scarcely be estimated just as it most certainly cannot -be over-praised. Owing to the rigorous search for arms which the -Bavarians and French had instituted in almost every dwelling in the -land, during the two or three years which intervened between the -Treaty of Pressburg and the uprising of the peasants under Hofer, it -was not possible to obtain and store new weapons in any quantity even -if to do so had not been rendered difficult from the hosts of spies -which overran Tyrol and seemed to lurk beneath almost every rock. Thus -it was that out-of-date weapons--most of which had seen service in the -war of a century before--billhooks, scythes, clubs and pitchforks, -with whatever other arms their own ingenuity could devise or the -village blacksmiths make, were pitted against the arms of some -precision of the French and Bavarian troops. All that the peasant -forces had to sustain them in the struggle against well-armed and -disciplined veterans, superior as regards knowledge of warfare, was -dauntless courage and a greater acquaintance with the country and of -hill fighting. - - [Illustration: THE SCHWARZHORN, S. TYROL] - -Upon Hofer's return with his companions from Vienna his Inn became -the resort--more or less secretly--of all who were truly desirous of -joining the popular movement and of freeing the country. Many, we are -told, blamed him for trusting so implicitly all who came. But to -objectors he made the same answer: "There are no traitors amongst my -countrymen." That his confidence was not misplaced was abundantly -shown by the fact that the secret of a conspiracy so vast that it may -be said to have extended north, south, east, and west almost -throughout Tyrol was unrevealed until the ever-memorable night of -April 10, 1809, when the time fixed for the uprising arrived. - -[Sidenote: THE SUMMONS TO ARMS] - -On the evening of that day the peasants of the Passeyer and other -valleys were called to arms by means of great fires which blazed out -in the darkness of the clear April sky in long, ruddy banners of -flame. Every hill crest in the vicinity of the Passeyer Valley had its -signal fire, and these were answered by others on the mountains -overshadowing the distant valleys. On the morrow Andreas Hofer found -himself at daybreak at the head of nearly 5000 men who had one and all -"confessed" and received the Sacrament ere taking up arms in their -sacred cause of liberty. - -The Bavarians were at once hotly attacked and routed; and on the 12th, -soon after dawn, upwards of 15,000 peasants had rallied to Hofer's -standard and appeared before Innsbruck. With indomitable bravery they -captured the bridge over the Inn, carried the heights by assault, and -entering the town engaged in a fierce hand-to-hand conflict with the -troops of General Bisson (who was in command of the joint French and -Bavarian forces) and compelled him to surrender. - -In the deadly conflict of the streets, which ran red with blood, and -into whose mire peasants, French and Bavarian soldiers and officers -alike were trampled by the on-press of the Tyrolese, the ruder weapons -of the latter, consisting of heavily butted fire-locks, broad knives -used in husbandry, scythe blades attached to staves, and bludgeons -cut from the thickets of the mountain side, were as deadly and even -perhaps more so than the weapons of their enemies. - -Down the ancient streets, overshadowed by the everlasting snow-clad -mountains; into the narrow byways and courtyards of the ancient town; -along under the arcades of the old-time Herzog Freidrich Strasse, -swept the Tyrolese, slaying as they went, until the invaders, driven -from cranny to cranny, struck down in the open, compelled many of them -to retreat along the Inn banks till they fell back into the swiftly -flowing river, cried for quarter and surrendered. - -At Wilten, on the outskirts of Innsbruck itself, the fiery Speckbacher -surrounded a Bavarian force of nearly 5000 men and took them prisoners -of war. Thus after less than four days' fighting the Tyrolese had -defeated the Bavarians, captured Innsbruck, and compelled the French -commander to sue for quarter. And in their hands they held two -generals, 132 officers, nearly 6000 men, three standards, five pieces -of cannon, and 800 horses. - -By the end of April, Tyrol was again free of invaders with the sole -exception that the Bavarians still held the castle of Kufstein. - -It was now that the Government in Vienna made one of the many serious -mistakes which throughout its dealings marked the policy pursued in -relation to Tyrol's struggle for freedom. General Chasteler, of whom -it was said that "he always came too late and went too soon," was -given the supreme command. And from that moment the advantages gained -by Hofer, his brave companions-in-arms Speckbacher and Haspinger, and -the peasant troops, were lost. In an almost incredibly short space of -time Chasteler succeeded in losing all that had been won. At length -his failure to hold what had been committed to his charge became so -obvious that he retreated beyond the Brenner, leaving Andreas Hofer to -do the best he could in defence of the portion of Tyrol not then -reconquered by the enemy. In little more than a month from the time -the French and Bavarians had been driven from Innsbruck they entered -it again in triumph; and thus, on the 20th of May, Tyrol was once more -to all intents and purposes conquered. - -The brave leader of the peasants, however, was determined to make one -more supreme effort to free his country from the French and Bavarian -yoke, and after summoning to his standard all who were capable of -bearing arms, he had the satisfaction of once more driving the -invaders from Innsbruck, and freeing for the second time the country -he loved so well. - -[Sidenote: THE CRUSHING OF AUSTRIA] - -This triumph was not, however, destined to endure, for the Austrian -forces under the Archduke Charles suffered a crushing defeat from -Napoleon's troops at Wagram on July 5 and 6, 1809, and were forced to -sue for peace or at least an armistice at Znaim, in which Tyrol was -ignored. Amongst other things, by the subsequent Treaty, Austria ceded -all her sea coast to France, as well as considerable territory to -Saxony and Bavaria. But it was not until the French, Bavarian, and -Saxon troops, straight from their victory at Wagram, to the number of -some 50,000 men, entered Tyrol under the command of Marshal Lefèbre, -and the Austrian army marched away out of Innsbruck in full retreat -before the advancing enemy, that Hofer realized that he and his cause -once more were abandoned by the Emperor and his advisers. - -Again Hofer came to the rescue; and, though in a measure a fugitive, -in one of the little-known gorges, he managed to send forth from -valley to valley his summons to the people to gather once more round -his standard. That none should certainly know from these summonses -where he lay concealed it was his wont to sign them "Andreas Hofer, -from where I am "; whilst in return those communicating with him -addressed theirs "To Andreas Hofer wherever he may be." - -He once more succeeded in inspiring his fellow-countrymen with his own -undying, unyielding patriotism. Gathering his forces together in a -gorge of the Mittewald he awaited the enemy's advance. We cannot do -better than draw in part, for a description of what followed, from the -stirring and vivid narrative of Albert Wolff. The vanguard of Marshal -Lefèbre under the command of General Rouyer advanced to Sterzing; and -then a column of Saxon troops to the number of about 4000 was thrown -out beyond the village towards the gorge of Stilfes with orders to -sweep away the insurgents. The idea that the untrained, ill-armed, and -heterogeneous peasant forces could successfully resist the victors of -Wagram appeared ridiculous to the Marshal and his officers, even if -the Tyrolese were so foolhardy as to make the attempt. For some -distance the Saxons advanced without either meeting with opposition or -discovering an enemy; and then, when the whole column, had fully -entered the defile from the mountain sides above them there resounded -a sudden, terrifying cry of "To the attack, and no quarter." - -The cry was followed by a starting up of thousands of peasants, men, -women, and children, the aged and the young, from behind the boulders -on the hillside, from out the hollows. Down the steep mountain gorge -crashed rocks, tree trunks, baulks of timber, earth and stones loosed -from the restraining ropes by the Tyrolese, sweeping every obstruction -before them, and falling upon the penned-up Saxons like an avalanche. -Then, as the latter were vainly and fiercely struggling to extricate -themselves from the debris and entanglements, the peasants rushed down -the mountain side and hurled themselves upon their bewildered foes, -shouting Hofer's battlecry, "For God and our Country." - -The enemy, utterly routed, turned and fled--what remained of -them--towards Innsbruck, pursued by the Tyrolese led by Hofer, -Speckbacher, and by the red-bearded Capuchin Haspinger, who held in -one hand a crucifix, and in the other a bloodstained sword. Upon the -Saxons the Tyrolese had no mercy, and hundreds were cut down as they -fled along the road back to Innsbruck. - -[Sidenote: TRIUMPH OF HOFER] - -In little more than a week Hofer, by a vigorous following up of his -victory in the Pass of Stilfes, had once more repulsed the invader, -retaken the position on Berg Isel, and established his headquarters at -Schönberg. These historic eight days of fighting and victory are known -in Tyrolese history as "the great week." - -Innsbruck still, however, remained in the occupation of the enemy. To -take the town was a task that might have given pause to any less brave -and venturous a commander than Hofer. But he was not the man to hold -back from a complete freeing of his beloved land from those who had -invaded it. The plans were laid, the day fixed, and the advance -ordered. On the morning of the attack, at five o'clock, Haspinger the -militant Capuchin, a commanding figure upon whom the light of early -dawn threw an almost uncanny refulgence, celebrated Mass before the -assembled peasant host, who knelt in serried ranks, ragged, unkempt, -but inspired to great deeds by memories of their past victories. After -this solemn observance Haspinger once more became a captain of troops -rather than a priest; and springing into his saddle he drew his sword -and led on the left wing. Andreas Hofer himself was in the centre, and -led the attack there, marching right on to Innsbruck. - -A contemporary account describes the hero as being "transfigured with -a grandeur scarcely earthly, as, burning with patriotism, he urged his -horse forward into battle." With his long beard, which had gained him -the nickname of General Barbonne amongst the French, flowing in the -wind, and his war cry of "Onward for your country and your Emperor! -God will protect the right!" he led his forces so irresistibly that -the troops of Marshal Lefèbre gave way and evacuated the town. On the -following day, August 15th, which was the fête of the Blessed Virgin, -Hofer, at the head of his victorious peasants, made his third entry as -victor into the capital. - -Around him thronged the citizens, overcome with transports of joy, -pressing him so closely that many were trampled beneath his horse's -feet. In the enthusiasm, relief, and triumph of victory, Hofer was -named with one voice dictator of Tyrol. But there was that strange -analogy which links Hofer's attitude in the hour of triumph so closely -(notwithstanding the differentiations of sex) with that of Joan of Arc -and with Cromwell. Turning to the thronging multitude, which filled -the narrow streets to overflowing, he cried out, with a gentle and -almost pitiful glance at their upturned faces, "Do not shout in -triumph; but offer thanks to God and pray." At the door of the church -of the Franciscans he dismounted, and entered the building to return -thanks to God, and remained there in prayer, unmoved by the cheers and -"Hochs" of the great assembly of his troopers and fellow-countrymen -outside, the sounds of which, as they came in through the constantly -open doors of the church at that hour, bore no personal significance -to him. - -On leaving the building he was waited upon by the chief citizens, who -expressed their undying gratitude to their deliverer. But in response -he said, "By my beard and St. George, God himself and not I has been -the Saviour of our country." - -Andreas Hofer was destined to show that he was not only a warrior, but -also an administrator, actuated by the most lofty desires for his -country's good. In every act of his government could be detected the -truly religious and patriotic character of the man. And during the -short time that he reigned in the palace at Innsbruck, waiting -anxiously for the approval and the help from his Emperor in Vienna, -his conduct was marked by dignity, kindliness, and strength. But alas, -his triumph was but brief. In less than two months after the retaking -of Innsbruck, a fresh Bavarian army was entering Tyrol by way of the -Unter-Innthal, and taking Speckbacher unawares the invaders gained a -partial victory; and ere the disaster of October 10th could be -retrieved, the Treaty of Vienna was agreed upon (October 14, 1809), by -which the hand of one of the Habsburg princesses was promised to -Napoleon as the price of peace. - -Tyrol by this new arrangement remained Bavarian, and the Archduke John -himself called upon Andreas Hofer to lay down his arms. The latter did -not obey. He persuaded himself that the Treaty of Vienna was without -substance, or merely a trick to enable the invaders to make good their -fresh hold upon the country, and he decided to continue the struggle. -His followers, however, were discouraged by the callous way in which -the Austrian Government had invariably left them to fight their own -battles alone. - -Speckbacher, too, was deserted by all save a mere handful of men, and -after remaining in hiding for some time and escaping capture by a -miracle he succeeded in getting to Vienna. The Capuchin Haspinger -afterwards joined him there, and was ultimately made curate of -Hietzing, near Schönbrunn. It then became clear to Hofer that to -continue the struggle for freedom just then was useless and, indeed, -impossible; so he dispersed his own handful of faithful friends and -supporters, telling them, "We shall meet again before long, for Tyrol -will not perish." - -[Sidenote: HOFER AN OUTLAW] - -With these prophetic words, which were destined never to be realized -so far as the meeting with his faithful comrades in arms was -concerned, Hofer took farewell of his companions and fled a fugitive -into the mountains of the Passeyer Valley. - -A price was put upon his head by the Bavarians and French, who -recognized that their peaceful occupation of the conquered and ceded -territory depended very greatly upon the capture and imprisonment or -death of Hofer, who, as a popular hero, held so high a place in the -hearts of his countrymen; and that for him to remain at large would -constitute a perpetual menace. - -For a long while Hofer was able to elude the vigilance and discovery -of his would-be captors. Technically, and owing to his abandonment by -the Austrian Government, he was a rebel on account of his refusal to -lay down his arms when commanded by the Archduke John to do so. In the -end, as so often happens, there was one found base and treacherous -enough to betray the fugitive for blood money. Guided by such an one, -named Raffl, some Italian gendarmes, supported by a small detachment -of French soldiers, made their way amid the intricate mountain paths -to the chalet where--near St. Leonard, but far from other -habitations--Andreas Hofer had for some months lived with his family, -now broken down by despair for his country, anxiety and privation. - -He made no resistance, and was immediately taken to Mantua, escorted -(such was his fame and the fear lest he should escape or be rescued) -by four French officers, a battalion of infantry, and a detachment of -cavalry. No effort appears to have been made by the Austrian -authorities to save the hero to whom they owed so much, and Hofer was -tried by court-martial under the presidency of General Bisson, and -condemned to be shot. - -[Sidenote: THE DEATH OF HOFER] - -On the morning of February 20th, 1810, Andreas Hofer, who lay in -prison but a short time after condemnation, was awakened early and led -forth to die. At the gates were gathered a handful of his friends and -companions in arms who had been captured and brought to Mantua, or had -followed him there, and these knelt and entreated his blessing as he -passed by them; this he gave calmly, remaining far less outwardly -moved than they who received it. - -Then onwards to the Ceresa Gate, where the firing party halted. Hofer -declined to have his eyes bandaged; neither would he kneel. But -standing erect with unwavering courage he faced the file of soldiers, -who with loaded muskets were to do him to death. Giving his last -remaining piece of money to the corporal, he said to him, "Aim -straight." Then he calmly gave the signal to fire. - -The muskets rang out, the bullets sped to their mark, and one of the -noblest of patriots Europe had ever seen fell without a groan. - -At his own last request his body was buried at Mantua in the garden of -his friend and father confessor, Manifesti. There it lay for fifteen -years, until one night three officers of a Tyrol Chasseur regiment -stealthily removed the remains, distressed that the hero of Tyrol -should lie buried in foreign soil. The body was first taken to Bozen, -and shortly afterwards to the Abbey of Wilten. - -When later a funeral worthy of his fame was accorded him, deputations -came from all parts of Tyrol to pay their tribute to the greatest hero -in its history; and amid a throng which was perhaps never before -equalled in the streets of Innsbruck, the remains of Andreas Hofer -were with great appropriateness borne to their last resting-place in -the church of the Franciscans by twelve innkeepers. On the coffin lay -his hat, sword, and decorations, and upon it were the armorial -bearings of his family, which had been ennobled by the Emperor Francis -I. in 1819. And thus, in a tomb cut from the marble of the Tyrol he -loved, his body was laid to rest. - -In the same year that Hofer died, Tyrol was divided into three parts. -Italy took the southern, Bavaria retained the northern, and Illyria -the south-eastern or Pusterthal district. So it remained for three -years, until 1813, when the power of Napoleon was once and for ever -broken in eastern Europe, when he was defeated at the fierce battle of -Leipsic on October 16-18, by the allied forces of Austria, Russia and -Prussia. In this battle (known as "the battle of the nations") upwards -of 400,000 men were engaged; a fifth of the number were slain. The -allies were helped at a critical point of the fighting by the -defection from Napoleon of a large force of Saxons. - -In the following year Tyrol was reunited to Austria with the addition -of the Ziller and Brixen valleys and Windisch-Matrei. On May 27, 1816, -the Emperor Francis I. (who in 1806 had resigned the title of Emperor -of Germany, retaining only that of Austria) entered Innsbruck to -receive the allegiance of the people. His reception was most -enthusiastic, the people rejoicing unrestrainedly at once more gaining -their freedom, and being reunited to the Austrian Empire. - -During the revolutionary excitement which pervaded Europe in 1848 the -then Emperor of Austria, Ferdinand, and his Empress took refuge in -Tyrol; and in the Austro-Italian War of 1848 the Tyrolese greatly -distinguished themselves by their bravery and good marksmanship. - -There remains little more to add concerning Tyrol's history. On -December 2, 1848, the Emperor Francis Joseph I. succeeded his uncle -Ferdinand, who abdicated after ruling the country for thirteen years -under the guidance of the powerful Prince Metternich whose reactionary -policy provoked the Revolution of 1848. - -In 1859 the Austro-Italian provinces, with the exception of Venice, -were absorbed by the Kingdom of Sardinia, previous to the formation of -the Kingdom of Italy. In consequence Tyrol became the frontier of -Austria to Italy, and of increased importance. In 1866, during the war -between Austria and Prussia, the latter supported the Italians in a -scheme to seize Southern Tyrol. The Tyrolese Jager and Schutzen forces -took a prominent part in the campaign, and were engaged with great -credit at the Battle of Custozza, where the Austrians with 70,000 men -defeated the army of Victor Emmanuel, nearly twice as strong. -Afterwards, when the Prussians defeated the Austrians at the Battle of -Sadowa or Koniggratz on July 3, 1866, and a fresh attempt was made to -seize South Tyrol, the inhabitants once more showed that their -old-time courage and resource was not diminished. - -[Sidenote: TYROL OF TO-DAY] - -Since then Tyrol has been happily both peaceful and prosperous; -advancing in the arts, and with a system of education which is bearing -good fruit. - -What the future of this favoured and beautiful land may be, who can -tell? Perhaps the secret is already locked up in the chancelleries of -Eastern Europe. - -But the wise and beneficent ruler who now guards the destinies of the -many-sided Austrian Empire is old, and when the end comes it does not -need the keen observer to possess much gift of anticipating events to -predict that Tyrol may be the scene of yet further struggles when -Germany's desire for a seaport on the Mediterranean via the Adriatic -has possibilities of accomplishment. - - - - -CHAPTER III - - SOME CHARACTERISTIC LEGENDS, CUSTOMS, AND SPORTS - - -Just as is the case with Switzerland so in Tyrol the land itself, its -history, even its geological evolution, seem in a measure reflected in -the character and disposition of its people. One cannot indeed be any -long time in Tyrol without becoming aware of and appreciating this -fact. In the kindliness and hospitality of the Tyrolese one has -reflected the characteristics of aloofness from the outer world, and -dependence upon one another, which the position of their "land within -the mountains" typifies--characteristics which have grown (and -fortunately have not yet become, at least in the more remote parts, to -any large extent tainted by considerations of self-interest) from the -circumstances of former days, when individual hospitality had to serve -for the absence of inns and commercial conveniences of the kind. So, -too, in the rugged, patriotic, and sturdy natures of the people one -can trace a parallel with the configuration of their beloved land; as -one can also trace in their single-heartedness, piety, poetic traits, -and simplicity, the frugal and laborious lives which the majority -lead, unvexed in former times by the fret of small things, and through -succeeding ages strengthened by the great needs of patriotism and -self-sacrifice which the political crises outside their own borders -often brought home to them by invasion and attempted subjection. - -[Sidenote: A DELIGHTFUL LAND] - -It is not at all wonderful, then, that a people dwelling in a land of -such surpassing beauty, where flower-bedecked upper pastures melt away -into rocky peaks, glaciers, and snow-clad heights; where the music of -tinkling brooks trickling down the mountain side and the roar of -greater torrents are ever with them; with the eternal silence of great -heights surrounding them and, as it were, shutting them in from the -outer world, should be gifted with an appreciation of romantic beauty, -legend, and poetry beyond the common run of mortals. - -As we have already shown, much history and many stirring events have -been enacted within the mountain-girdled borders of Tyrol. And, -nowadays, when the country is coming slowly but surely to her own as a -delightful holiday ground for weary dwellers in Western cities, many -of her valleys bring to the minds of those who know something of the -country's story dramatic and romantic memories of the stirring events -and legends which have through past ages become associated with their -names. - -Scarcely a valley, village, or townlet, whether set high or low in -this enticing land, but has its own legend or story. And in almost all -of the less travelled corners one finds strange, and to most -travellers incomprehensible, dialects still lingering amongst the -peasantry, notwithstanding the fact that gradually the Germanization -of even the southern portion of Tyrol is being brought about. In one -or other of these dialects which so survive, scholars and philologists -of former times have thought the key to the ancient language of -Etruria might be discovered; and in more modern days there has been -the same hope expressed, but as yet it is unfulfilled. Müller,[7] for -one, thought that in some secluded valley of the Tyrol or Grisons the -key to the riddle in the form of "a remnant of the old Rhætian dialect -might be discovered." Müller's hope has since then in a measure been -realized through the efforts and researches of Steub, who, whilst -travelling in Tyrol in Alpine districts in 1842, found some -fragmentary remains of a dialect approaching very nearly Etruscan, -though not sufficiently full to form any very important or extended -key to the tongue. His book[8] contains the results of the inquiries, -tests, and deductions which he was at first led to undertake by the -strange names of the towns and villages which he came across in his -travels. Then he collected these, and we are told set to work "testing -them with Celtic, but discovering no analogy he tried other tests, and -with the Etruscan met with some considerable success," which was -chiefly valuable, however, as confirming the theory and ancient -traditions of a Rhæto-Etruria. Many of his conclusions, however, have -never been accepted by philologists either of his own day or of later -times; and some of the word examples he gives as having analogies are -quite incomprehensible to the ordinary student. - -[Sidenote: THE LANGUAGE] - -To all intents and purposes German and Italian are the languages -spoken throughout Tyrol, a knowledge of which will be sufficient for -all ordinary purposes of travel. The former prevailing in the -Vorarlberg and North Tyrol; the latter in South Tyrol and Wälsch -Tyrol, though German is found in both of these districts, and in South -Tyrol very considerably. - -In the Vorarlberg, however, one comes across numerous words and -expressions which are undoubtedly of Italian origin, and are remaining -evidences of the periods when the Venetian Republic ruled over a -district now a part of Tyrol. The Italian word _gútto_, a can or -feeding-bottle, for example, has its counterpart in _guttera_; whilst -from _fazzolétto_, a handkerchief, one has _fazanedle_; and from -_gaudio_, joy, we have _gaude_; and from _cappéllo_, a hat, has -probably come _schapel_. - - [Illustration: A VIEW OF THE TYROL ALPS] - -A very considerable number of words of French origin or of marked -similarity to French words are found in parts of the Vorarlberg. -_Gespousa_, a bride, has a distinct philological affinity to -_épouse_; and _au_, water, pronounced very similarly, can be traced to -_eau_, and is found common to both North Tyrol and the Vorarlberg. -_Shesa_, a trap or gig, bears a marked resemblance to the French -_chaise_. - -Even England appears to have contributed a considerable number of -words to the vocabulary of certain districts of Tyrol, though perhaps -they are, more strictly speaking, words similarly derived from German -or Norman French which have become common to both. In _gulla_, a -gulley; _gompa_, to jump; _datti_, daddy; _witsch_, witch; and many -others this is traceable. It will be gathered from these few examples -that the language and dialects of Tyrol are composite of several -tongues, as is almost always the case in countries which have seen -many vicissitudes of occupation and development. - -[Sidenote: FOLK TALES] - -In Tyrol, which has experienced these and possesses such a large share -of romantic beauty, and even nowadays some "solitary places," there -need be little wonder that legends, superstitions, and myths are found -nearly everywhere. Almost every village has its own, whose origin has -been lost in the mists of antiquity, and whose date can only be traced -uncertainly by its analogy to some other similar, more widely known, -and more easily dated legend, tale, or superstition. Many of them -enshrine actual events recorded and re-recorded with poetic license -and varying accuracy, so that at last what was originally founded upon -fact has in process of time become overlaid with much poetic imagery -and fiction. To most of these tales and accounts of events each teller -added something of himself suggested by his knowledge, imagination, or -art; and thus ultimately what had once been facts became legends -common to all throughout the length and breadth of the land till some -one set them down in permanent form by writing or printing. Then the -variations in a measure ceased. - -Tyrol is full of these legendary tales, superstitions, and myths, to -which, indeed, the geological situation of the land and the simple -habits of the people conduce. When we remember that in ancient times -it was the universal custom to ascribe all manifestations of Nature's -laws which could not be easily traced and understood to the -supernatural, it is little wonder that the simple, unsophisticated, -and uneducated Tyrolese should have so attributed many of the wonders -amid which they lived. One very noticeable feature of the Tyrolese -character is demonstrated by the fact that, notwithstanding the -centuries of evolution during which superstition played so important a -part in the life of the people, and the existence of an unreflecting -belief in the supernatural, their many virtues, especially those of -patriotism, industry, frugality of living, morality, hospitality, and -religion, have not, as with some other nations, become impaired. - -Amongst the many legends of a startling and supernatural character -which are found throughout Tyrol, is one connected with the pretty -little village of Taur in the Innthal. It has to do with a hermit who -lived in the seventeenth century in a cell overlooking the Wildbach. -He is often said by the countryfolk to have been St. Romedius himself, -though this, of course, could not be the case. One night, whilst the -holy man was engaged in his usual meditation and prayer, a tapping was -heard against the little window of his retreat. Upon opening the door, -what was his amazement to see, not the benighted traveller he expected -to find craving his hospitality and shelter, but the spirit of his -friend the priest of Taur who had recently died. The latter entreated -the holy man to have compassion upon him, saying, "Have pity upon me, -Father, for my sufferings are terrible. Once when three Masses had -been ordered and the fees paid I forgot to say them, and now for this -sin I am being punished more than I can bear." - -Then the legend goes on to say that he laid his hand upon the -low-pitched roof of the little porch outside the hermit's cell, and -the holy man afterwards found that the wood was charred and the -impression of the tortured priest's hand was left indelibly in the -wood. The poor suppliant begged his old friend the hermit to say the -Masses, and to pray and fast for him. This the holy man promised -faithfully to do; and keeping his promise, a year and a day afterwards -the spirit once more rapped upon the casement and told him that he was -now free of purgatory. In the chapel there hung at least a few years -ago, and we believe now hangs, the tile with the mark of the priest's -hand branded into it, beneath which is written an account of the -miracle, with the date February, 1660. - -In Wälsch Tyrol, especially, there are many folk-lore tales having a -distinctly Biblical origin or suggestion. Possibly they are oral -versions of Bible incidents handed down from generation to generation -in the early years of Christianity and during the Middle Ages, until -they have gradually in process of time and varied repetition lost -their strictly Biblical character. One of the most usually met with -(it is told by most Wälsch Tyrol mothers to their children, and is a -favourite on account of its dramatic end, and because virtue triumphs) -bears a very strong resemblance to the story of Joseph and his -Brethren. The story runs thus: "Once long ago there lived a king who -had three sons. Two were quite grown up, but the third was a child, -and was his father's joy and favourite. One day the king, who had been -out upon a hunting expedition, returned home from the chase of the -bear and chamois fatigued, and dispirited because of the loss of a -favourite feather[9] which he was accustomed to wear in his cap. There -was a hue and cry raised, but no one could find the lost article. At -length little (Joseph) came to his father and urged him to grieve no -more but to refresh himself and then rest, "for," said the child, -"either I myself or one of my brothers will find the feather." - -Then the king, pleased with the child, and doubtless hopeful that he -would be the one to find the missing plume, said, "To whomsoever finds -the feather will I leave my kingdom." - -The three brothers set out on their search, and after much trouble the -youngest suddenly espied the object for which they were looking. But -the two elder men, consumed by jealousy at the thought of Joseph's -inheriting the kingdom, led him away into a wood and killed him, and, -taking the feather to their father the king, told him that they both -found it and thus jointly claimed the reward. Regarding the missing -(Joseph) they said that whilst searching for the feather they missed -him, and suddenly looked up to see him being borne away by a bear into -the recesses of the woods, and as they were unarmed it was impossible -for them to attempt to rescue him. The king was consumed by grief; -search was made, but the body was not discovered; and it was not until -the proverbial year and a day afterwards that a shepherd boy came -across (Joseph's) bones, and, taking one of them, fashioned it into a -primitive flute or shepherd's pipe. The wonderful part of the story is -still to come. No sooner had the shepherd commenced to play upon the -pipe than it told, in the voice of the poor child victim of jealousy, -the whole story. The shepherd took the pipe to the king and played -upon it before him. The king listened, and, accepting the miraculous -tale it told, ordered his two sons, who were present and struck with -amazement and fear, to be instantly put to death. - -There are scores of other stories of a similar character told during -the winter evenings around the fire in Tyrolese huts and houses. Some -have a family likeness to tales of our own land, such as Cinderella, -Puss in Boots, Jack and the Beanstalk (only the giant is often -replaced by an immense toad who guards fabulous wealth, that is only -to be obtained by killing the toad in single combat, which feat is, of -course, performed by the poor boy who wishes to marry the Princess), -Red Riding Hood, etc. An account of these, however, rightly belongs to -a volume of comparative folk-lore, and for detailed description we -have no space in the present one. - -[Sidenote: SOME QUAINT CUSTOMS] - -Of the many quaint customs which still prevail in different parts of -Tyrol, those relating to Christmas and to All Souls are amongst the -most tender and picturesque. In North Tyrol, more especially perhaps -in the district of the Unter-Innthal, Christmas, which is called -Christnacht and Weihnacht, is celebrated by the gift of _Klaubabrod_, -a strange cake-like compound made of dough, almonds, slices of pears, -and other preserved fruits and nuts, which, at least with the -generality of foreigners, must, we think from personal experience, be -"an acquired taste." The Zillerthal maidens are specially -well-instructed in the making of _Klaubabrod_, and the one prepared -for the family consumption, if the maker be engaged, must have the -first slice cut out of it by her betrothed, who then kisses her and at -the same time gives her some little present as a mark of his -affection. In former days it was the custom of the Bishops of Brixen -to make presents of fish to members of their household and to all in -their employ. The fish came from Lake Garda, and was allowed by custom -to pass through the dominions of the reigning Count of Tyrol and the -Prince Bishop of Trent exempt from the toll which would otherwise have -been levied. - -In Wälsch Tyrol there is a curious Christmas custom still to be met -with which consists of the arrangement, by the father of the family, -of a number of heaps of flour upon a table or shelf. In these are -hidden various little presents, and when the children and other -members of the household have been admitted they take their heap -according to the drawing of lots, or the result of some contest or -competition. - -The belief that animals have the gift of speech, which has during past -ages been prevalent throughout Christendom, still prevails in some -parts of the more remote districts and valleys of Tyrol; and strange -stories are told of things said by beasts and over-heard by human -beings which have come true, so that animals evidently are accredited -also with the gift of prophecy. - -At Epiphany, in many parts of Tyrol, performances very similar in -character to the English old-time "mummers" are given. Generally three -of the village boys dressed up to represent kings, one having his face -blacked, go from house to house singing. Sometimes a Herod will appear -at the window of the house and reply to their songs in rhyming -couplets. After which the singers stand in turn and sing, and end with -a chorus which contains broad hints that they would not refuse some -refreshment were it offered them! They seldom or never fail to receive -this, as usually some provision has been made by the hospitable -village folk for the purpose. - -The blessing of cattle on the Eve of Epiphany was at one time an -almost universal practice with the Tyrolese. This, however, has been -largely discontinued, although still extant in some hamlets of the -remote valleys. - -As showing the almost universal prevalence of certain ideas underlying -customs, though often varying in details, one may quote the observance -of All Souls in Wälsch Tyrol, which bears a marked resemblance to the -beautiful and even more pathetic ceremonials connected with the Feast -of Bon Matsuri in far-off Japan. In parts of Wälsch Tyrol, although -the graves of the departed are not decorated nowadays, as is so much -the practice in Germany, the parish priests gather their parishioners -together in the churchyards and recite the Rosary whilst kneeling -amidst the graves. In many parts loaves, called _cuzza_, are given to -the poor with small doles of money, and sometimes bean soup. In -former times, however, these doles, which are for the refreshment of -the souls of the departed, were actually laid upon the graves -themselves, apparently in the belief that the souls would come forth -and partake of the food so lovingly provided. Pitchers, cups, and -other vessels containing fresh water were also placed so that the -souls might slake their purgatorial thirst. It is in this latter and -ancient, and not in the less symbolic modern observance that the -analogy to the Bon Matsuri of Japan is so distinctly traceable. - -[Sidenote: MARRIAGE IN TYROL] - -Of the curious customs which once prevailed very widely, and are even -now to be found in the more remote districts, those relating to -marriage are amongst the most quaint. The month of May is, strangely -enough, unpopular; with us the opposite appears to be the case. The -favourite day is a Thursday. In fact, one writer ventures to say, -"throughout Tyrol a Thursday is chosen." Monday, however, is the -favourite in one of the smaller valleys of the Windisch-Matrei -district. - -On the night before the wedding there is usually a great dance given, -and in towns often a hall is hired for the purpose, where the -contracting parties are well known, in a good position, and have a -large circle of friends and acquaintances; and in villages where the -same circumstances occur an elaborately decorated barn is often used -for the merry-making. - -From the time the wedding is announced or the "banns" published the -betrothed maiden is known as the "Pulpit Bride" or _Kansel-Braut_. -These village wedding festivities are often rendered picturesque and -even mediæval in effect, as the peasants frequently wear the costumes -of former times, and the barn is lighted by pine torches or equally -primitive methods. The dancing is kept up till early morning, in fact -often until sunrise; and not till then do the guests disperse, some of -the more favoured going on to the bride's house for a substantial -breakfast, or, as it is called, _Morgensuppe_. Whilst this is in -progress the bride is usually attired by her girl friends (quite a -number of them frequently sharing in this interesting and even -exciting ceremony), and those who have not come in to breakfast may -continue the dancing. One of the special adornments worn by brides is -a knot of long ribbons or scarlet leather worked with gold thread, -whilst blue bands, worn round the arm, and the hat ribbons are of the -same colour. These were anciently thought, and are indeed still so, to -have special powers to preserve the wearer from goitre and other -complaints. - -The bride's procession, which forms usually at about ten or eleven in -the morning, is headed by musicians. But before starting the guests -assemble round the table in the living room and drink the good health -of the happy couple out of a large bowl from which the latter -themselves have drunk first. The nearest relatives and friends of the -bride usually form a kind of guard of honour, being known as "train -bearers," although we fancy a "train" is seldom worn by a peasant, or -by one of the lower middle class. These "train bearers" surround the -bride, and, except in inclement weather, walk with their hats in their -hand, and sometimes bear garlands of flowers. In some districts it is -the custom for the priest to accompany the bride to church, not as -with us to await her arrival there, walking on one side of her whilst -the parents walk on the other. Orange blossom is seldom worn, save by -the rich; peasant girls wearing as a substitute a spray or wreath of -Rosemary, which it is also a common practice for them to do in Italy -and Spain. The plant is considered emblematic of the purity of the -Virgin, and for that reason highly valued. - -[Sidenote: COSTUMES] - -Very frequently a Tyrolese bride wears no special bridal dress, but -her holiday or _fête_ dress, which has perhaps been retrimmed or -additionally embellished for the occasion. This was the case at a -wedding at which we were present in the Unter-Innthal, where the -bridesmaids also wore their picturesque festal attire, with -broad-brimmed velvet hats, elaborately embroidered bolero-shaped -bodices, snowy linen sleeves, short velvet skirts, and handsome -aprons. Their shoes were mostly of black leather, some of those worn -by the well-to-do girls being adorned by huge silver buckles. - -On this occasion the bridegroom was scarcely less gay in attire than -the bride. Clad in short black velvet knee-breeches, and wearing a -green velvet double-fronted waistcoat, a black jacket, thick brown -knitted woollen hose, a crown or head ornament of silver filigree -work, and a massive silver belt with heavy bosses, he was not only a -conspicuous, but also an almost theatrical figure of the procession. A -priest also accompanied him, followed by the village innkeeper, who is -not seldom the richest man of the community, owner of the largest -amount of land, and the holder of a position somewhat analogous to -that of a mayor. It is generally agreed that the Tyrolese village -innkeeper is a man of superior calibre to his English counterpart. -Usually he is a man of upright character, and superior intelligence to -the average villager; and carrying on, as he frequently does, several -other businesses besides that of innkeeper, he is less interested than -in some other countries in the excessive consumption of drink. - -At many weddings singers from neighbouring villages and hamlets will -come into the bride's native place to assist with the singing and -music which form a prominent feature of the ceremony. Lighted tapers -are sometimes carried by the bridal party in church; and candles that -will not burn well are always avoided and thrown aside by the younger -and unmarried members of the company on account of the belief -prevailing that to hold such is a sure sign that the bearers will not -be married within the year. At the conclusion of the ceremony a cup of -spiced wine mixed with water is sometimes handed round by the priest -after he has blessed it, out of which the guests all drink to the -health of the bride and bridegroom to be. In the old name given to -this _Johannis segen_ (literally John's blessing) some authorities are -inclined to trace a symbolism having its origin in the miracle -performed at the wedding feast in Cana of Galilee. - -After the ceremony has been performed the wedding-party leaves the -church, and, as is the case on similar occasions in Brittany and other -countries, dancing almost immediately commences. It is sometimes, -indeed, started almost at the church door, and thus the wedding-party -proceeds to the village inn accompanied by musicians. In former times -it was the almost universal custom in several valleys of Tyrol to -proceed in turn to every inn within a radius of some miles after -refreshments had been partaken of at the first. A very fatiguing -custom one would imagine. Refreshments, we were told, generally marked -each visit, and yet the real business of the day, the wedding feast, -was still to come! - -In ancient times--the custom has now fallen into disuse so far as we -have been able to discover--it was also the practice to slaughter a -fatted calf, which had been reserved for that particular purpose. -Every possible joint and portion of the animal was served up in turn -even to the head and feet. - -[Sidenote: A TYROLESE WEDDING] - -At the end of a feast which even nowadays lasts hours, and formerly, -so one old writer says, "consumed much time so that the whole day was -frequently given over to feasting till few who sat down to the board -were capable of much exertion," the best man or some prominent -groomsman rises and asks the guests whether they are satisfied with -the fare provided. It is needless to say that such a question is -invariably received with rounds of appreciative applause. Then, in -former times more frequently than nowadays, the speaker proceeded to -preach a little sermonette which generally ran something in the -following style, and was little varied from occasion to occasion, or -even from one generation to another. "The good gifts of which we have -partaken are from the hand of God. Therefore should thanks be given to -Him. And yet more should this be done for His mercy in making us in -His image and reasonable beings, and not as the wild beasts of the -field or crawling things, or unbelievers. We have but to thank Him and -turn ourselves to Him in the spirit of humbleness and gratitude, and -He will abide and go with us as with those at the marriage feast in -Cana of Galilee." - -Other duties in life and aspirations were usually touched upon, and -coming from one of themselves we can well believe the speech was -listened to with additional attention by a race of people -distinguished for simple piety and homely religion. The exhortation -was usually followed by a loud saying of a Paternoster and a "Hail -Mary" by all present. - -Often this address is followed by other refreshments of a lighter kind -than those of the feast proper. Some are of special design, and in -their shapes and decorations have symbolic meaning, as is sometimes -the case of wedding dishes and decorations in other countries. After -this the guests bring forth the gifts they have for the young couple. -Coming from a naturally generous and warm-hearted people these are -often not only useful but valuable, and prove a great help to the -newly established housekeepers. - -Then, when the most exigent appetites have been more than satisfied, -the musicians, who have played at intervals throughout the -proceedings, strike up dance tunes, and the younger--and often older, -too--members of the party indulge in their favourite indoor -pastime--dancing. - -Tyrolese peasant dances are many of them exceedingly picturesque and -quaint, if somewhat boisterous and lively in their performance. Both -the men and the girls in one or two of them beat time not only with -their feet but also by means of resounding thwacks on their thighs and -hips. And whilst the young men, clad in gay waistcoats, black velvet -or leather knee-breeches and high-crowned hats often of a delightful -shade of green felt, are getting more energetic, their partner's -short, full skirts during their top-like revolutions often ascend -waistward until the extent of shapely and sturdy limbs displayed -almost rivals that of a conventional ballet girl. Other dances of the -waltz, _dreher_, and _allemande_ type are more graceful, and less -"romping" in character. Dancing is carried on far into the night, and -it is a notable circumstance that although there is a good deal of -eating there is not often excessive drinking on these occasions, and -cases of actual drunkenness are very few and far between. - -Several of the valleys--the Zillerthal, Iselthal, and Grödenerthal in -particular--have their own peculiar wedding customs. And in several, -as in parts of Germany, the old custom of stealing one of the garters -of the bride whilst she is seated at the wedding feast for the purpose -of cutting it up into mascots or souvenirs still obtains. - -[Sidenote: TYROLESE SPORTS] - -A love of sport of all kinds seems inherent to the Tyrolese nature; -and this in conjunction with the pure air and bracing climate in which -the people live, the strenuous struggle for existence with the forces -of Nature which is always going on amidst the higher valleys, not only -serves to keep the Tyrolese a hardy and vigorous race, but has much to -do with the special qualities of industry, religiousness, morality, -frugality, and straight-forwardness for which they have long been -distinguished. - -Their athletic festivals parallel those of Westmorland, Cumberland, -and the Highland gatherings of our own land and the sports are to a -considerable extent similar in character. The most popular, however, -are undoubtedly shooting at a mark, or _Scheibenschiessen_ as they are -called, and wrestling. - -The Tyrolese gun, usually a short-barrelled rifle, known as _stutz_, -has played an important part not only in the history of the nation, -but also in the domestic life of the people. In many of the more -remote valleys, in the past at least, it has deserved its name of the -bread-winner, for upon the game shot with it many a household has -largely subsisted; whilst from the skins of the deer, chamois and -other animals killed, articles of clothing are made. To the constant -use of the gun in all its evolutionary stages, from the flint-lock -musket down to the more modern rifle of to-day, the Tyrolese owe their -renown as being amongst the finest marksmen in Europe, a -characteristic which has counted so tremendously in their various -struggles with the invaders of their country. - -Wrestling is popular throughout the Tyrolese valleys, but nowhere more -so than in the picturesque and romantic Zillerthal. The champion -wrestler of a village, as used to be the village "bruiser" with us, is -a person of importance who would not barter the distinction for love -nor money. The wrestlers are divided into three kinds, the "Roblar," -"Mairraffer," and "Haggler," who follow the rules of different schools -of wrestling. In former times this love of the sport, or perhaps one -should say supremacy in it, frequently led to scenes of crime and -bloodshed. Often in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries noted -robbers and freebooters were those who had acquired great physical -powers as wrestlers, and in consequence took to brigandage as a means -of livelihood. Indeed, there are stories told of fair maidens in past -ages having been carried off from their betrothed by force, when the -rejected suitor (or perhaps the unknown rival who had set his heart on -a particular girl) had killed his rival in a wrestling bout. To prove -murderous intent under such circumstances was not only extremely -difficult but also somewhat against the "sporting" instinct of the -race, and the primeval idea that the woman should fall to the -strongest. - -Bowling and the game of skittles are also favourite pastimes, and to -the latter especially several romantic stories attach. Indeed, even at -the present day one can find traces of the belief that the game is -also popular with the elves, gnomes, goblins, and "little folk" who -are supposed to dwell in or haunt certain mountains, woods, and -streams, only these supernatural folk mostly play with gold and silver -balls and skulls in the legends and folk tales one hears around the -firesides in Tyrolese chalets. - -[Sidenote: A GHOSTLY LEGEND] - -There is a strange story in connection with this game and the spirit -players attached to the now ruined and once strong and famous castle -of Starkenberg, which was destroyed by Frederick with the Empty Purse -in the fifteenth century. - -Once, so the story goes, a pedlar was overtaken by darkness upon the -mountain side, and losing his way, he came to the ancient _schloss_, -in which he decided to take shelter for the night. He lay down on the -grassy floor of the ruined hall, and placing his pack beneath his head -went off to sleep. He slept for some hours and then was awakened by -the clock of a neighbouring village striking midnight. As the last -stroke reverberated amongst the rocks of the hillside he was -astonished to see twelve spectral figures clad in complete armour file -into the hall, and set to work to play a game of bowls, using skulls -in place of balls. - - [Illustration: THE ORTLER FROM THE MALSER HEIDE] - -Now it happened that the pedlar was not only a fine wrestler and a man -of great physical strength and courage (otherwise he would scarcely -perhaps have chosen a haunted ruin in which to pass the night), but -was the champion bowler of his native village. So he offered to pit -his skill against that of the spectral knights. His challenge was -accepted, and in the end he beat them all, and to his astonishment, -instead of disgust being shown at his victory, his prowess was hailed -with shouts of joy, and one of the spirits speaking to him said that -now they were released from purgatory, and then they all vanished. -Much mystified, the pedlar turned to see where they had disappeared -to, when his eyes were greeted by the sight of ten more men in armour, -who entered the hall by separate doors. After having carefully locked -the latter they all brought the keys to the pedlar, and entreated him -to try and discover the right one for each door. Nothing abashed he -undertook the task which was a difficult one owing to the fact that -each key, door, and ghostly visitant were exactly alike. He managed, -however, to accomplish his task successfully, and was overwhelmed by -the thanks of the spirits, who told him, as had their bowl-playing -counterparts, that he had by this feat released them from torment. - -As was to be quite expected, it was now the devil's turn to appear -upon the scene, which he immediately did, roundly upbraiding the -pedlar for having thus robbed him of some of his victims, and -declaring that he (the devil) would now inevitably manage to gain the -pedlar's soul instead. The latter was not to be so easily disposed of, -however, and he offered to stake his soul upon a game of bowls to be -played between himself and the Evil One. Needless to say that the -latter was beaten, and when dawn came at length he fled away with a -horrible rushing of his bat-like wings, and his hot sulphurous breath -tainting the air, so that the grass was withered in places. - -The pedlar was not likely to keep such an interesting experience to -himself, and so when in due course he came to the village, towards -which he was making his way when overtaken by nightfall, he told the -tale. The villagers amazed went to the ruined castle, and lo and -behold there was the scorched grass as the pedlar had declared. - -It would be easy to quote other equally quaint and romantic stories -which are told in connection with the sports and pastimes of Tyrol, -but that of the pedlar and the ghostly knights or men-at-arms must -suffice. It will, at all events, serve to demonstrate how inextricably -interwoven are the threads of legendary lore and romance, even with -the commonplace daily life and amusements of this interesting people. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[7] In "Etrusker," Einl. 3, 10 _et seq._ - -[8] "Über die Urbewohner Rätiens und ihren Zusammenhang mit den -Etruskern." - -[9] Or ornament. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - - INNSBRUCK, ITS HISTORY, PEOPLE AND TREASURES - - -The approach to Innsbruck, whether one come to it by railway or by -road from the west, north, east or south, is picturesque and even -wonderfully beautiful. Most English and American travellers, however, -we imagine, come to the old-time capital of Tyrol via Zurich and the -Arlberg railway, with its marvellous tunnel all but six and a half -miles in length, above which tower snow-clad peaks and glaciers. This -route provides a wonder-world of delight, a succession of deep gorges -lying at the foot of towering mountains covered on their summits with -a mantle of spotless and eternal snow. At one moment the train -traverses a steep gradient climbing slowly along the hillside as -though the line were laid upon a shelf of rock from which nothing but -a miracle can keep it from tumbling into the foaming torrent below; -the next plunging into the darkness of one of the many tunnels, to -emerge a moment or two later into a blaze of light and vistas of still -greater beauty. The Arlberg railway is not alone an engineering -triumph; it is also an artistic one. Few lines in Europe present -greater charm or variety of scenery in so comparatively short a -distance. To enter Tyrol by it is to see the country as it is, largely -unaltered from the days when Napoleon's armies entered it also from -the Swiss frontier with the same objective, Innsbruck. - -Soon after leaving Feldkirch the valley commences to contract as the -line climbs upwards from Bludenz and passes through the beautiful -Kloster Thal; and at Langen one suddenly comes into the region of -Alpine pastures, and from the valley below one can hear the musical -tinkle of cow-bells, and discover on the hill-slopes picturesque -groups of peasants minding their flocks. Then comes the ascent through -the famous Arlberg tunnel, which is 26 feet in width and 23 feet in -height, with its six and a half miles of gloom succeeded by -magnificent scenery as St. Anton is passed, and the line proceeds -through the narrow Stanzer valley, between towering mountains, many of -whose peaks are snow-covered. Soon it crosses the wonderful Trisanna -Viaduct which, in one arch of nearly 150 yards in length, spans the -gorge of the Patznaum valley, at the bottom of which, nearly 200 feet -below the line, rushes the glacial stream, and thence past the ancient -Castle of Wiesberg onwards to Landeck, which is set in a wide valley -with its commanding castle. - -From Landeck by taking a carriage one can reach Innsbruck in a -leisurely way along the Finstermunz high-road via Sulden and Trafoi, -and thence along the Stilfserjoch, the highest carriage road in -Europe, which climbs to the height of 9055 feet above sea level. This -was constructed between the years 1820-25 by the Austrian Government, -and traverses a wonderful variety of exquisite scenery, from the -region of the eternal snow on the Ortler and Monte Cristallo to the -vine-clad slopes of the Val Tellina. The most impressive scenery is, -however, found on the Tyrol side of the pass. - -From Landeck the line passes many another picturesque village; -castles, whose history would fill volumes, seem to stand stark and -stern almost on every mountain spur, some now mere ruins, others -wonderful survivals of a past age, sometimes environed by pine-clad -slopes, at others half-encircled by rushing torrents washing the bases -of the rocky promontories upon which they stand, whilst above one -towers on either hand the illimitable glaciers and snow slopes of the -Eastern Alps. Thus through ever interesting and beautiful scenery one -at last approaches Innsbruck. - - [Illustration: THE TRISANNA VIADUCT AND CASTLE WIESBERG] - - [Illustration: A PEEP OF THE ZILLERTHAL] - -[Sidenote: INNSBRUCK] - -Innsbruck is not only the capital of Tyrol, a town of upwards of -50,000 inhabitants, renowned historically and climaterically, but it -is also the junction of two important lines of railway by means of -which one can get eastward to Vienna and the East, and southward into -Italy. - -It has been said that of all Tyrolese towns Innsbruck is the least -national. Such a statement, although tinctured with truth, needs some -qualification. In the season it certainly puts on a cosmopolitan air, -and one meets numbers of English, Austrians, Germans, French, -Americans, Italians, and Anglo-Indians in its streets; and games and -entertainments make up a social round of considerable gaiety. But the -town nevertheless retains its native charm, bred of historic memories, -ancient buildings, and the hospitality of its people. - -To the northward, sheltering it from the cold winds from off the -Bavarian plains, stands the bulwark of the eternal heights which -literally wall in Tyrol. There rise the magnificent groups of -limestone mountains towering above the fertile Inn Valley, the -Frauhitt and Martinswand with their romantic traditions and memories, -the Seegrubenspitzen, and Rumerjoch and Brandjoch. In fine weather -they appear but a stone's throw from the bottom of the -Maria-Theresien-Strasse, or from the Ferdinands Allée which runs along -the south bank of the Inn, with its maples and poplars graceful and -shady. - -Situated amid so much beauty of scenery, favoured by an equable -climate and much sunshine, it is little wonder that the town has -become a popular resort, more especially during the winter months. The -valley is at its broadest where the city stands, allowing a wide -prospect and charming views from the slopes of St. Nicolaus and -Mariahilf across the river to the Berg Isel, and the wooded sides of -the Mittelgebirge, with here and there a tiny village with outstanding -spire perched high on the mountain side, or set amid the plain. The -valley lies east and west of Innsbruck with the river flowing eastward -like a silver ribbon, amid cultivated fields of fertile alluvial soil, -threading its way through the gradually narrowing valley to Kufstein -and thence through Bavaria to the Danube. - -This Alpine city, pregnant with so many historical memories, deeds of -blood and chivalry, engirdled by the everlasting hills, is, with the -possible exception of Salzburg, the most picturesque and interesting -of all German Alpine towns. - -The character of Innsbruck of to-day differs very materially in some -respects from what it was two decades ago. The modern element, which -always comes to such places with greater notoriety and prosperity -brought by travellers and tourists, has become developed, but happily -as yet not greatly to the detriment of the old-time air which still -permeates its narrow, ancient streets, and by-ways, courts, and -buildings. In some of the former, the Maria-Theresien-Strasse at the -south end of which stands the Triumphal Arch and Gate, and the -Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse, for example, the old and the new are -strangely mingled. It is not a little owing to this distinguishing -feature as well as to its beautiful environment that Innsbruck owes -its charm. With much of the convenience, it possesses less of the -vexing artificiality of ancient places vulgarized by the exigencies of -modern travel than do many similar towns. In some parts one might -almost imagine one's self in one of the larger mountain villages, in -another at Pontresina, or St. Moritz, minus, however, some of the more -artificial gaiety of these resorts. - -[Sidenote: INNSBRUCK TYPES] - -During the season--more especially the summer--there are numbers of -German tourists as well as Austrian to be seen in the streets, and in -their almost boisterous enjoyment of their sight-seeing and holiday -amusements they form a very marked contrast to the quieter and perhaps -somewhat restrained English and American visitors, who as a general -rule set about exploring the place and its treasures with a much more -preoccupied and business-like air. - -From the higher and more distant valleys, too, many mountaineers and -peasants come down to enjoy a few hours' marketing or the pleasures of -the town. They form not the least interesting feature of the summer -crowd which throngs the new as well as the old streets of Innsbruck. -The women, many of them, wear picturesque costumes, consisting of -velvet bodices, skirts of often beautiful shades of green and brown; -aprons elaborately worked, or of lace; and sailor-shaped hats of black -or green felt, often ornamented by gold embroidery under the brims and -with two long ribbons (frequently also of velvet) hanging down or -fluttering in the wind at the back. These hats are singularly like -those of the Breton peasants, only they are worn more by the women -than the men, whilst in Brittany women seldom wear them. - -The fact that Innsbruck is a garrison town accounts for the presence -of a large number of soldiers about the streets; green plays a -prominent part in many of the uniforms--more especially of Tyrolese -regiments--whilst the officers of several wear a particularly smart -shade of blue-grey, or "pastel" blue cloth with trimmings of cerise, -scarlet, or green, which seldom fail to arouse the admiration of the -ladies. The countryfolk, too, crowd the streets on market days with -feathers in their hats which are often of beautifully "weathered" -golden green or bright green felt. - -The history of Innsbruck from the tenth century onwards is indeed -largely that of Tyrol itself. The name as a town appears first to have -occurred in a document of the year 1027 which was a grant to the -chapel of St. James' in the Field (St. Jacob in der Au), which most -probably occupied the site on which the stately church of the same -name erected in 1717 now stands. Long before this date, however, a -settlement of people--small at first--had taken place at this crossing -or ford of the Inn, brought into existence by the growing and -profitable commerce between Germany and Italy by way of the Brenner. -Both the travelling merchants and the Tyrolese themselves soon found -the place a convenient depôt for the heavier goods and articles of -merchandise, such as skins, wines, cloths, and metal ware; and as the -years went by it gradually grew to be more than a convenient -halting-place for the merchants and their pack trains on their -journeys. Houses fit to accommodate the well-to-do were erected, and -Innsbruck as a flourishing town came into being. Towards the end of -the twelfth century certain rights over the town were acquired by a -von Andechs, Berthold II., from the monks of Wilten to whom it -belonged; and in consequence of these rights, Otto I., his successor, -encircled it with walls, fortifications, and watch-towers, and also -built himself a palace. - -The rise of Innsbruck was from the middle of the thirteenth century a -steady one. At that period it was made the sole depôt for the storage -of goods between the Zillerthal and the Melach; and as the years went -by other privileges were granted to the steadily growing town, which -not only served to maintain but also to increase its importance. - -In 1279, Bruno, Bishop of Brixen, consecrated another church in the -Ottoburg, which was called the Moritzkapelle. The town's lords, -spiritual as well as temporal, appear to have done what they could to -foster and encourage its growth, and there are records of festivities -and princely entertainments on a lavish scale within the precincts of -the Ottoburg in those far-off times. It was not, however, until after -the cession of Tyrol to Austria by the Duchess Margaret, known as -"Pocket-mouthed Meg," that the admirable situation of Innsbruck was -fully realized. Ultimately, the convenience of its water communication -by the Inn and Danube with other distant and flourishing towns of the -Empire seems largely to have brought about its adoption as the seat of -government for Tyrol. - -[Sidenote: INNSBRUCK'S RULERS] - -Innsbruck throughout the centuries, so far as its rulers are -concerned, appears to have been "fortune's child." Many privileges -were granted to it from time to time, and the staunch fidelity of the -citizens to Duke Rudolph IV. of Habsburg at the time of one of the -periodic Bavarian invasions resulted in further concessions being -granted which served to place Innsbruck in the unassailable position -of being both the capital and the most prosperous town in the Tyrol. - -Duke Frederick of the Empty Pocket (_Mit der leeren Tasche_) made -Innsbruck his home and base of operations whilst endeavouring to put -down the Rottenburgers and other of the powerful nobles, who were -attempting to set him at defiance and continue the oppression of the -countryfolk which they had commenced and carried on during the -unstable and weak government of Frederick's immediate predecessors. - -The Innsbruckers gave him loyal and very material support in his -endeavours, and reaped a substantial reward in the favours and -privileges which Frederick afterwards granted to them. - -It was this prince who gained, by contact with his people when a -fugitive amongst the mountains and valleys of Tyrol, a knowledge of -them (and thereby earned their affection) that made it possible for -him ultimately to call the peasantry to arms, and to defy the power of -the Emperor Sigismund, Ernest the Iron Duke of Styria, and his other -enemies. - -The circumstances of Frederick's call of the people to arms was -romantic in the extreme. Indeed, his doings in the early years of his -outlawry by the Church and State read like pages of the most stirring -romance. Perhaps some of the deeds recorded are more or less -legendary, but enough remains to fill to overflowing with stirring -incidents the pages of any historical romance. Briefly the story of -the event is as follows. Assured during his many wanderings of the -people's devotion to him, for when pursued they had sheltered him, and -when discovered they had boldly refused to surrender his person to his -enemies, Frederick devised a plan by which he should appear as the -principal actor in an heroic peasant comedy at the great fair at -Landeck. This play set forth in stirring scenes the fortunes or rather -misfortunes of an exiled prince driven from his throne by his enemies, -compelled to wander destitute, and with a price upon his head amongst -his people, whom he eventually calls to arms and leads to victory and -thus recovers his inheritance. - -He must have played his part remarkably well if one may judge by the -results. The people, who had come to the fair from all parts of the -country roundabout were stirred to the very depths by his acting, and -by his pourtrayal of the imaginary prince's misfortunes. We are told -the audience were many of them moved to tears and that when Frederick -came to sing of the people following their ruler's call to arms the -enthusiasm became uncontrollable. - -Then, so the tale goes, Frederick threw off all disguise, and made a -direct appeal to them. The vast audience vowed to support his cause, -and the enthusiasm which swayed the Landeckers was not long spreading -through the whole country with the result that shortly afterwards the -Emperor Sigismund and Frederick's brother concluded a truce with him -and he was allowed to become ruler. - - [Illustration: THE FAMOUS "GOLDEN ROOF," INNSBRUCK] - -During his reign he did much to show his gratitude to his loyal -friends and people by curbing the oppressive power of the nobles, and -granting many privileges which were on the whole more for the -benefit of the poor than of the rich. - -[Sidenote: THE "GOLDEN ROOF"] - -But to many who come to Innsbruck we fancy Frederick's fame rests not -upon his wisdom as a ruler so much as upon his extravagance in -building the world-famous "Goldne Dachl" to the elegant late-Gothic -balcony of his palace at the foot of the Herzog-Friedrich-strasse. The -nickname of "Empty Purse" or "Pocket" had been bestowed upon him by -his enemies, who sought to belittle him when he attained to power. It -was not certainly his by common consent. The Tyrolese account rather -points to the fact that Frederick at one time had impoverished himself -in his endeavours to relieve his subjects from the burdens of -taxation, and in consequence the nobles who were no believers in his -system of government in this respect bestowed upon him this somewhat -approbrious _sobriquet_. Frederick saw in this a reproach not perhaps -so much directed against himself as against his people in general. It -seemed to him to indicate that his enemies thought those for whom he -had undoubtedly done much kept him poor and would do nothing to keep -up a state in character with his position as ruler. He therefore built -the famous roof.[10] Outside the house which was then the Furstenburg -or princely dwelling, now very ordinary looking and far less imposing -and ornate in character than say the Heblinghaus hard by, he in 1425 -erected over the two-storied balcony the "Goldne Dachl," on which -piece of mediæval display of wealth he is stated to have expended -30,000 ducats or about £14,000. In it there are 3450 gilt upon copper -tiles, which have several times since Frederick's day been regilded. -The last occasion on which this was done is upwards of twenty years -ago. - -It is necessary, however, for us to say that considerable doubt exists -whether Frederick--who is now supposed not even to have built the -house--did construct the roof which has done so much to immortalize -his nickname. Loth though one is to destroy a romantic story, truth -compels us to state that the most reliable evidence points to the -Emperor Maximilian as the originator of the roof and probably the -balcony also in 1500, after his second marriage with Maria Bianca -Sforza of Milan. - -The house has long ago descended from its high position as a royal -palace, even at times of recent years having been let to private -families or in apartments, but the famous "Goldne Dachl" over the -beautiful oriel window, with its Gothic balconies, the balustrades of -which are decorated with carved armorial bearings and shields in -marble, has been preserved as a beloved relic almost in its original -state. Within the house itself is a curious old fresco, the subject of -which has been the cause of much dispute. On the second floor is an -interesting sculptured bas-relief, depicting Maximilian and his two -wives, Mary of Burgundy and Maria Bianca Sforza, with the seven -coats-of-arms belonging to the seven provinces over which the Emperor -held sway. - -Frederick's son Sigismund succeeded him, and for a time kept a -brilliant and gay Court at Innsbruck, but being without direct heirs -he in 1490 gave up Tyrol to his cousin who, three years later, became -the Emperor Maximilian I. Maximilian in turn did much for the town -which he adopted as his Tyrol home, and by his residence in Innsbruck, -after he had become the Emperor of a wide dominion, he did much to -increase its importance and prosperity. He it was who built a new -palace in the Rennplatz, called the Burg, which scarcely forty years -later was burned down. The Great Hall, called the Goldene Saal, and -the state bedroom, the decorations and furniture of which were so -beautiful and magnificent that it was known as _das Paradies_, were -eventually totally destroyed, many of the occupants of the palace, -including the children of the Emperor Ferdinand of that time, escaping -with their lives with difficulty. - -Maximilian, who became familiar to his Innsbruckers as the "Kaiser -Max," especially endeared himself to them by reason of his frank -manners and love of the chase and mountaineering. - -[Sidenote: ANCIENT INNS] - -Amongst the many interesting mediæval buildings which have happily -survived in Innsbruck there are several in the immediate neighbourhood -of the famous "Goldne Dachl." One of the oldest, if not the oldest, is -the Ottoburg of Otto I. standing at the end of the -Herzog-Friedrich-strasse close to the River Inn; and, indeed, only -separated from it by the Herzog-Otto-strasse. This, the residence of -the Andechs, was built in 1234, and was the reputed birthplace of Otto -III. A quaint motto concerning it remains, which, roughly translated, -runs-- - - "Here the Ottoburg firmly stands, - A house upheld by God's own hands." - -In this ancient building many dramatic scenes of Tyrolese history took -place. - -Close by is the oldest Inn, the famous and deeply interesting Goldener -Adler (Golden Eagle) to which, in former times, before modern hotels -and conveniences were esteemed indispensable, every visitor of -distinction to Innsbruck came. The "visitors' list" of the Goldener -Adler is one long entry of nobles and celebrities. - -Indeed, during the time it was the acknowledged resort of the nobility -and even monarchs who came to Innsbruck, it sheltered amongst its many -distinguished guests and travellers the Emperor Joseph II.; Ludwig I., -King of Bavaria; Gustave III. of Sweden; Heinrich Heine, the gifted -though melancholy poet; and Goethe, who came to Innsbruck with the -Dowager Duchess Amalie of Saxe-Weimar in 1790. In commemoration of -this visit a bust of the poet adorns the room which he occupied. And -last, but by no means least, the Goldener Adler housed the patriot -Andreas Hofer. It was regarding the portraits of the latter, of his -enemy Napoleon Bonaparte, and of Ludwig of Bavaria that Heine remarked -on seeing them hanging side by side in the dining-room of the Inn that -it was strange to see such enemies grouped together even though merely -portraits. Tradition has it that it was from the middle window of the -famous Goldener Adler that Hofer made his speech to the surging crowd -in the narrow street below on August 15, 1809, when he entered the -town in triumph after the third battle on Berg Isel. A copy of the -speech, which was a modest though stirring oration, has been preserved -at the Inn. - -One of the most delightful vistas of the old town is to be obtained -from the corner where stand the three well-known Inns, the Goldener -Hirsch, Rother Adler, and Goldener Löwe; whilst from the balcony of -the old Stadtthurm or belfry a fine view over the town and of the -environing mountain summits rewards the adventurous climber. - -The old-fashioned "lauben" or arcades of the Herzog-Friedrich-strasse -in particular, under which are set out tiny stalls often kept by -picturesquely attired girls and women, seldom fail to attract the -attention of visitors. - -On either side of the street these "lauben" stretch under the low -arcaded roofs, providing not only a cool promenade in the heat of -summer, but a shelter which on wet days can be fully appreciated, for, -to speak frankly, Innsbruck in wet weather strikes one if one wanders -in the byways as a somewhat muddy though intensely interesting town. -In these "lauben" one frequently sees types of the older Tyrolese in -the national costume, which in the towns of Tyrol (as in those of -other countries) show signs of dying out. Old women in the short -skirts, and picturesque aprons, quaint hats and bodices, of the -mountain districts and villages, and the old men, wrapped (if the -weather be cold) in long, flowing, cloaks of green or russet cloth, -smoking their long pipes with painted porcelain bowls, on which are -often as not stirring scenes in miniature from the life of Hofer. - -[Sidenote: MARKET TYPES] - -By way of these covered promenades one gradually reaches the busier -centre of the town where the old-world aspect of -Herzog-Friedrich-strasse gives place to the more modern Maria -Theresien-strasse, and the Burggraben joins the Marktgraben. There are -few more deeply interesting and picturesque places of its kind than -Innsbruck Marktgraben on a festival or market day. Here, indeed, is a -spot not alone for the artist and amateur photographer, but for the -student also, who may see many quaint local customs and costumes, and -occasionally even the boyishly attired girl cowherds of the upper -pastures in their cloth or velvet knee breeches, short jackets, -"sailor"-shaped hats decorated with feathers, edelweiss or gentians, -and worsted stockings. Here, too, perhaps, one can better realize from -the cosmopolitan throng of market people, than from anything else, the -fact that for many generations Innsbruck has been the business highway -for Italians, Slavonians, Hungarians, Austrians, and Germans. One can -often, indeed, see representatives of Northern, Southern, and Eastern -nations gathered together at one and the same time in the Marktgraben, -with a sprinkling of tourists to represent the more Western peoples. - -If we were asked to pick out the two streets which in different ways -would probably most deeply impress the newcomer to Innsbruck, we -should without hesitation chose the old-world -Herzog-Friedrich-strasse, on either side of whose narrow roadway are -so many interesting ancient houses, low-ceiled rooms, and picturesque -courtyards, as one; and the Maria Theresien-strasse with its more -modern air, exquisite view of the snow-capped Bavarian Alps as the -other. But this latter fine commercial street with its up-to-date -shops, upon the windows of many of which frequently appears that -comfort-bringing (but alas! sometimes delusive) legend, "English -Spoken," is not without its old and historical buildings. In the -Spitalkirche or Church of the Holy Ghost one has an early eighteenth -century Rococo building of considerable interest. And almost opposite -stands the house in which Hermann von Gilm, the well-known Tyrolese -poet, died in 1864. A little further along is the Rathaus or Town Hall -of Innsbruck, which was formerly the Oesterreichischer Hof, a large -hotel. In the courtyard is a noticeably fine marble staircase, and -there are some interesting and effective frescoes on the walls from -the brush of Ferdinand Wagner. - -Few visitors but are attracted by the column of red native marble -which occupies a prominent position in the middle of and almost -exactly midway down Maria Theresien-strasse. Surmounted by a statuette -of the Virgin Mary, and with those of St. Anna, St. George, St. -Vigilius, and St. Cassian grouped round the base, it was erected as a -memorial of the retreat of the Bavarian troops on St. Anna's Day (July -26), 1703. - -At the corner of Maria Theresien-strasse and Landhaus-strasse is the -Landhaus of Anton Gump completed in 1728, and in the Rococo style of -architecture then prevalent. Here are held the sittings of the -Tyrolean Landtag which was formerly held at Meran, and on its -transference to Innsbruck was one of the main causes of the town -becoming the capital of Tyrol. - -Close by is the church of the Sevites, with its famous dome decorated -by the paintings of the well-known Tyrolean artist, Joseph Schöpf, -depicting the death of St. Joseph and his entry into paradise. - -The University, which stands in the street of that name, has undergone -some considerable vicissitudes. Founded by the Emperor Leopold I. in -1677, it was, by the Emperor Joseph II., reduced to the standing of a -Lycée, but was once more accorded the dignity of a University in 1826. -In the valuable library of upwards of 75,000 volumes there are many -illuminated MSS. of great beauty and value, as well as a number of -early fifteenth-century books. The adjoining Botanical Garden, which -contains an unrivalled collection of Alpine flora, and was constructed -by Professor von Kerner, belongs to the University, and here during -the summer months those who wish to study Alpine flowers will find -grouped and gathered together specimens which it would take many -months and perhaps even years to study and discover on one's own -initiative in their native habitats. The University is, however, about -to be transferred to a more convenient home on the Fürstenweg near the -Inn, and the old building will, alas! probably be pulled down and the -site used for modern houses. - -[Sidenote: MAXIMILIAN'S CELL] - -Quite close to the latter stands the Jesuit Church attached to it, -which is chiefly interesting because of its being the burial place of -the Tyrolese Prince Regents, and on account of the paintings by -Albrecht Durer which adorn the sacristy. The Capuchin Church and -Convent dating from the latter end of the sixteenth century are worth -a visit, for in the latter one sees an interesting and historical -survival in the retreat of the Archduke Maximilian, known as the -"Deutsch-Meister," who here devoted a week in every year to prayer, -fasting, and penance. - -In his simple cell, which is panelled in plain wood, and has for -furniture but a bedstead and chair of the most ordinary make, one can -realize exactly the kind of "retreat" which was so often in those -far-off days used by the highest nobles and rulers to free them for a -time from the cares and vanities of State. The inkstand and other -small articles of necessity, which still remain memorials of -Maximilian's occupation, are supposed to have been his own handiwork. -How complete this ruler's retirement from the world and whilst he was -in retreat can be judged by the fact that he not only followed with -exactitude the rules of the brotherhood, rising early and also -attending the night offices, but in addition he engaged in the manual -labour of the garden, and field, and workshop like as one of them. The -cell has a little window high up and opening on the chancel of the -chapel to enable the noble recluse to take part in the services. - -This cell has been in a sense a pilgrim place ever since, and has been -visited at various times by many distinguished people. In 1765 the -Empress Maria Theresa came to the Convent, and upon entering -Maximilian's retreat sat herself in the wooden chair. - -She was little used to so hard a resting-place, and after a minute or -two she expressed her astonishment, exclaiming, "Heavens! What men of -iron our forefathers were!" - -There are (so far as we know) no relics of the Empress Maria Theresa's -visit, not even an autograph; but another illustrious visitor, St. -Lorenzo of Brindisi, who came to Innsbruck on his way to found a -religious house in Austria, somewhat strangely one is forced to think, -left behind him his staff, breviary, and copy of the Hebrew Bible, -which are treasured as carefully as the relics of the Archduke -Maximilian himself. During the reign of the latter the religious -houses and Churches of Innsbruck all benefited by his generosity and -prospered from his devotion to the Church. The effect of his example -upon the townsfolk themselves was so marked that after the terrible -plague of the year 1611 the burghers founded and built the -Dreiheiligen Kirche (Holy Trinity) for the Jesuits as a thank-offering -that the ravages of the plague were stayed. It was probably owing to -the fact that, during this particular outbreak of the scourge of the -Middle Ages, when the old hospital or Siechenhaus was all too small to -hold all the victims, two Jesuits, Kaspar von Kostlan of Brixen, and -the Professor of Theology at the University, assisted by a lay -brother, tended the sick with indefatigable self-sacrifice, that the -Jesuits were destined to chiefly benefit by the Innsbruckers' desire -to commemorate their gratitude to God, that the pestilence at last had -been overcome. They readily subscribed the necessary funds (we are -told), and the then Burgomaster took a vow to see that the building -was erected. From the time of which vow, tradition tells us, "the -pestilence at once began to abate." - -An altar-piece, the artist of which was Stötzl, was given by -Maximilian himself. It represented the three patron saints against -sickness: St. Sebastian, who stayed a plague in Rome by his -intercession; St. Martha, who according to tradition founded a -hospital and spent the rest of her life attending to the sick; and St. -Rocchus, who devoted his life and strength to the care of those -suffering from the pestilence. - -[Sidenote: THE NEWER TOWN] - -Some of the most beautiful roads and modern houses of the newer -Innsbruck, which is increasing in area year by year, lie close at hand -to this votive church, and to the northward, in the part of the town -which is best reached by the Universitats-strasse and Saggengasse, -alongside of which is the vast Exercier Platz, and at the back of that -and nearer the river the beautiful Hofgarten. These never fail to -charm the rambler on the outskirts of the town. - -[Sidenote: MUSEUM TREASURES] - -But there yet remain many other interesting objects, which the lover -of Innsbruck and the visitor who stays for any considerable period of -time are sure to gradually discover and enjoy. One of these is the -National Museum, known as the Ferdinandeum, in which are gathered -together objects, pictures, and relics forming, so it is claimed for -them, an almost complete historical record of Tyrol, its people and -its products. - -The Museum, which is the resort of students from all parts of Europe, -and is for even the casual visitor an object of the greatest interest, -bears the name of its founder and patron Ferdinand I. Originally -intended to illustrate in a vivid and practical way the history and -national customs of the country in the various domains of art, -science, and industry, the collections have gradually been enlarged -and expanded so as to contain examples of art by members of well known -foreign schools. The present museum is a comparatively modern -building, with a façade in the Italian Renaissance style. The ground -floor was commenced in 1842, and the upper story added in 1886. - -On the ground floor are some most interesting archæological remains, -including several ancient Roman milestones from the Brenner road and -elsewhere; burial urns from Matrei; bronze statuettes of Roman days -from Brixen and Innicherberg; many ornaments of the Roman period from -Meran, Moritzing, Zedlach and other places. From Salurn, in the valley -of the Eisack, there are some Roman tombs, with the ornaments of the -dead, and household and toilet utensils and articles of great value -and interest. One of the most important objects in the archæological -section of the Museum is the sarcophagus, arms and ornaments of a -Lombardian prince disinterred at Civezzano, near Trent. The coffin was -richly ornamented by gold bands, and in it was found a gold cross. - -Zoology, Geognosy, Palæology, and Mineralogy are represented with -remarkable fulness, and in the last-named section of the Museum is to -be found almost every Tyrolese mineral discovered up to the present -time. Some of the specimens are of great beauty and value. - -In the Armoury, which so far as the general visitor is concerned, -appears to be one of the most popular sections, there are many fine -examples of the weapons of bygone days, including poignards, inlaid -pistols, guns, powder-horns and flasks, helmets, breastplates, etc. - - [Illustration: A TYPICAL INNSBRUCKER] - -In the Topographical section few fail to notice with interest the many -early maps of Tyrol, bearing on their faces the history of the country -as is shown by the partitions of it which from time to time took -place; and the homemade globes of the self-educated shepherd boy, -Peter Anich, who became a famous geographer. In the same room are -some fine specimens of peasant costumes, musical instruments -(including some Strads, Amatis, and Stainers of great value), the -jewel case of the famous Philippine Welser (wife of Ferdinand II.) who -lived with her royal and devoted husband at Castle Ambras for many -years. - -There are also in the Museum some deeply interesting relics, -portraits, busts, autographs, etc., of Tyrolese patriots and -distinguished citizens of Innsbruck. Those relating to Andreas Hofer, -and his two loyal comrades, Joachim Haspinger and Joseph Speckbacher, -include many of their personal belongings, and are regarded by the -Tyrolese visitors with almost religious veneration--a feeling which -the life--history of these men quite justifies. - -Amongst the sculpture are some fine specimens of old carved woodwork -and interesting German carvings of an early period brought from -Tyrolean churches, which were either despoiled during the Napoleonic -Wars, or have since for one reason or another been pulled down and -their treasures and fittings dispersed. - -On the second floor of this convenient and commodious building is -chiefly gathered together the Art collection, which so far as native -work is concerned is, we believe, unrivalled. There is presented for -the information of the student as well as the ordinary visitor an -astonishingly complete survey of Tyrolese painting from the earliest -times, including the work of the schools of Brixen-Neustift, and the -Pusterthal, with representative work by such masters as Andrä Haller -and Michael Pacher; and also examples of the old Flemish and German -masters, including Lucas Cranach, St. Jerome, Altdorfer, Pateiner, -etc., Innsbruck painters being represented by Sebastian Schel. - -Well worth the attention of all interested in painting and its -development as an Art are the works of the Tyrolese masters covering -the period from the seventeenth century to the present day, which are -well represented by pictures of the Unterberger family, Joseph Schöph, -John Baptist Lampi, Angelica Kaufmann, Gebhard Flatz (Fra Angelico), -Joseph A. Koch, Mathias Schmidt, E. von Wörndle, Karl Blaas and -others. Amongst the more notable pictures of the modern school are the -"Chancellor Wilhelm Biener at the Innsbruck Landtag," of Karl -Anrathers, and the historical masterpieces of Franz Defregger. - -It is impossible for one to study the latter nine in number, which -depict patriotic events connected with the campaign of 1809, without -appreciating the vigour of their execution and the charm of their -colour, at the same time realizing something of the stirring nature -and significance of the events to which they refer. Three are -originals, and the remaining six are copies made by pupils of -Defregger under his own personal supervision, and supposed to have in -some cases been finished or touched up by him. The following are the -subjects of the originals:-- - -(1) The Three Patriots--Andreas Hofer, Joseph Speckbacher, and Joachim -Haspinger; (2) Speckbacher and his son Anderl at the Bear Inn, St. -Johann; (3) The Innkeeper's Son. The last named is the son of the -Tharer Wirth at Olang in the Pusterthal. The copies are of the -following subjects: (1) Speckbacher's Call to Arms; (2) The Last -Summons, the original of which is in the Imperial Art-History Museum -in Vienna; (3) The Mountain Forge, the original of which is in the -Dresden Gallery; (4) The Return of the Victors, the original of which -is in Berlin; and (5) Andreas Hofer in the Castle at Innsbruck, the -original of which belongs to the Emperor Francis Joseph; (6) Andreas -Hofer being led to Execution, the original of which is in Konigsberg. -These are all distinguished by beauty of colouring, strength of -drawing, and dramatic appeal. - -There are many other treasures in this Museum, which is national in -the true sense of the word. And amongst them is the fine and almost -priceless collection of pictures by Dutch masters which has been -principally acquired through bequests of wealthy Tyrolese. In it are -examples of the work of Van Dyck, P. Paul Reubens, Paul Potter, R. -Ruysch, Adrian von Ostade, A. Cuyp, Rembrandt and others. There is -also a most comprehensive and valuable Library of works relating to -Tyrol, and also the archives of both the Austrian and German Alpine -Clubs. - -Each year sees important additions made to the various departments of -the Ferdinandeum, and so the returning visitors to Innsbruck find an -ever new interest in the country and its National Museum awaiting -them. - -[Sidenote: THE HOFBURG] - -The remaining objects of supreme interest at Innsbruck are the Hofburg -or Palace; and the Hofkirche or Church of the Franciscans. They are -easily reached from the Ferdinandeum along Museum-strasse and the -Burggraben, which may be said to form the boundary line dividing the -old town from the new. The archway, through which one reaches both the -Palace and the Church, formed, in mediæval times, one of the city -gates; and in those far-off times was crowned by a watch-tower upon -which the many escutcheons of the Habsburgs were emblazoned. It was -taken down in the time of Maria Theresa, as its condition had become -too dangerous to permit it to remain standing. - -The Hofburg stands at a right angle with the Hofkirche to the -north-west. Of the original building erected by the Emperor Maximilian -not very much now remains; for after being seriously damaged it was -ultimately reconstructed by Maria Theresa. On the exterior are traces -of the original baroque style favoured at the time it was built; still -also to be found in several of the larger, older, and more important -houses in the town. The state apartments are chiefly distinguished for -the decorative paintings of the well-known artist A. F. Maulbertsch, -principally in the large salon known as the Riesensaal. It was in the -chapel, which connects the Palace with the Damenstift or Ladies' Home, -that the Emperor Francis I. of Germany, husband of Maria Theresa, died -so tragically on August 18, 1765, while the wedding festivities in -connection with the marriage of Prince Leopold (afterwards the Emperor -Leopold II.) with the Infanta Maria Ludovica were in progress. - -It is not the Hofburg, however, but the famous Hofkirche--which has by -several writers and antiquarians been called "The Tyrolean Westminster -Abbey,"--that attracts most visitors, and has the greatest charm for -all who are either interested in Tyrolese history or antiquities. This -church was built during the decade from 1553-63 by the Emperor -Ferdinand I., then King of Rome, as a memorial to his grandfather the -Emperor Maximilian I., who was buried underneath the high altar in the -Castle Chapel of Wiener-Neustadt. Tradition states that the building -had been contemplated by Maximilian, and was ultimately brought into -being in accordance with his will. The architect of the church, which -is in the Italian Renaissance style, was Thuring of Innsbruck,[11] and -the ground plan follows the lines of a columnar basilica. Lübke, -however, states that it was the tomb and not the building which -Maximilian himself planned in collaboration with Gilg Sesselschreiber, -a Munich artist, who occupied the position of painter to the Court. - -The first impression made upon the mind by the famous Hofkirche is one -of lightness and elegance, wedded to a somewhat flamboyant decorative -scheme, rather than impressiveness or age. The lofty and -slender-looking columns which support the roof on either side of the -nave are of red marble, and the ceiling itself is elaborately -decorated in rococo. The vista on entering is extremely fine, -including as it does the wonderful tomb of Maximilian, the organ loft, -and the huge crucifix in the centre, and the handsome pulpit on the -left of the tomb. The impression of magnificence and beauty grows upon -one, thus carrying out what was doubtless the design of the architect -and the Emperor who was instrumental in its erection. - -[Sidenote: MAXIMILIAN'S TOMB] - -The tomb in the centre, with its imposing bronze figure of Maximilian -kneeling with clasped hands on the top of the huge marble sarcophagus, -at the four corners of which are smaller figures, at once arrests -attention. The Emperor is in Imperial dress, with crown, armour, and a -robe, and is surrounded by the twenty-eight huge figures which have -become world-famous, and all save two of which were once -torch-bearers, and are now seen with their right hands extended as -though holding torches. The two exceptions are King Arthur of England, -and the Emperor Theodoric the Goth. All of the statues surrounding the -tomb are thought to have had some real or legendary connection with -the House of Habsburg, and it is believed that Maximilian himself -chose the characters who were to be represented. They may be grouped -into two series. One consisting of his five favourite heroes of -antiquity; the other of twenty-three ancestors, contemporary relatives -or members of his house, both men and women. - -The figures differ very greatly both in style and merit. It was -perhaps only natural that this result should have been arrived at when -one remembers that several generations were occupied upon the -construction of this marvellous example of German Renaissance -monumental work erected during the sixteenth century, and that it was -necessarily the work of several designers as well as many different -hands. The tomb is a wonderful, perhaps even unequalled, example of -the German art of a period which marked the blending of the mediæval -and the modern. To the Imperial designer of the tomb the chivalric -figures he chose to surround it were no mere abstractions but living, -breathing entities; just as the old feudal Empires of south-eastern -Europe were real. He was unable to realize that even then the old -order was about to pass away, to be replaced by a new which was so -divergent from that he had known, and of which he himself had been so -prominent a figure. - -The bronze figures, which twenty years or so ago attracted the notice -of but few foreign visitors, but are now objects of keenest interest -to all comers to the capital of Tyrol, are by several hands. The two -of surpassing beauty of design and execution are those of King Arthur -of England, and King Theodoric. They are nowadays pretty generally -supposed to have been the work of Peter Vischer of Nüremberg. - -These two statues have a particularly interesting history which has -been brought to light of recent years. Though cast at Nüremberg in -1513, and costing no less than one thousand florins, it was not until -nearly twenty years had elapsed that they reached Innsbruck. In the -meantime, owing to Maximilian's need of ready money, they had been in -the possession of Bishop Christopher of Augsburg, to whom they had -been pawned by the Emperor. The Bishop placed them in the chapel at -St. Lorenz, where they remained until the year 1532. Ferdinand I. then -sent to redeem them, and they were delivered up on payment to the -steward of the then Bishop of the amount which originally had been -advanced upon them. - - [Illustration: MOONRISE IN TYROL] - -[Sidenote: KING ARTHUR AND THEODORIC] - -The statue of King Arthur is especially impressive and fine. Standing -erect, the tall, chivalrous-looking figure has an alertness of pose -which is astonishingly lifelike and commanding. It is impossible not -to recognize the representation of a true ideal of knighthood "sans -peur et sans raproche," and that without any suggestion of aggressive -valour. The helmet worn is of the close-fitting type with the visor, -which is enriched with ornamentation, raised so that the face of a -somewhat Teutonic mould is plainly seen. The breastplate, worn over a -coat of mail, is magnificently worked; but the rest of the suit is -plain. Arthur supports by his right hand a shield bearing the arms of -England, and at his left side is a long sword. - -The statue of King Theodoric, although fine in execution, does not -possess the same impressiveness and commanding merit as that of King -Arthur to which we have just referred. It appears probable that the -same model may have been used for both. But, whereas King Arthur is a -commanding figure, the pose of King Theodoric is rather a dejected and -wearied one. His breastplate is not nearly so richly ornamented, and -his helm is also plainer, with the visor of a quite different shape. -As is the case with King Arthur, the breastplate is worn over a coat -of chain mail, and the greaves worn are plain. - -The remaining twenty-six figures according to some authorities were -designed by Gilg Sesselschreiber; although opinion is still somewhat -divided regarding this point. It may, however, we think be accepted -that Sesselschreiber was, at least in part, responsible for the -greater number. - -The relationship which existed between the Emperor Maximilian and the -Munich artist Sesselschreiber, who had been engaged as Court painter -in 1502, was not untinctured by an element of romance, which is doubly -interesting as showing the relative positions of artist and patron in -those stirring and disturbed times. - -Happily for lovers of art and antiquities the original designs for the -statues surrounding the tomb of Maximilian which Sesselschreiber made -have been preserved, and can be seen in the Imperial Library, Vienna. -Exquisite pen-and-ink drawings delicately tinted, upon some of which -the Emperor himself made corrections and suggestions in his own hand. -These are distinctly traceable on some from the unskilled nature of -the pen-and-ink alterations. - -[Sidenote: THE FAMOUS STATUES] - -A curious fact is also brought to light by these sketches. It would -seem from them beyond question that Maximilian fully intended being -modelled for the figure of himself, which was to grace the memorial, -in the suit of exquisite silver armour which he had worn on the -occasion of his marriage at Ghent with Mary of Burgundy.[12] Several -sketches were made, one, apparently from the notes and alterations -upon it, displeased the Emperor from a technical point; in another the -face was not as he wished with the result that Sesselschreiber -altogether made four or more drawings. - -The care which had been taken over this most important figure was, -however, never destined to be utilized to the full, for the statue was -not even modelled at the time of Maximilian's death in 1519, and the -figure clad in coronation robes (instead, as was evidently intended, -entirely in armour) which kneels on the top of the cenotaph was the -work of Abraham Colin, who had never seen the Emperor in life, the -cast not having been made until more than sixty years after -Maximilian's death. - -How slowly the great work of this magnificent tomb proceeded can be -gathered from the dates we have quoted. The delay arose from several -causes; amongst others, from the Emperor's shortness of money, owing -to the vast schemes of conquest, science, and other matters in which -he was engaged; and from the circumstance that Gilg Sesselschreiber -appears to have become lazy, intemperate, and dissolute. In the end he -took flight to Augsburg in fear of Maximilian's anger. The Emperor, -however, was not prepared to yield up possession of his Court painter -without a struggle, so the latter was captured and thrown into prison, -from which he appears to have been released in 1516 on promise of -reform. So that he might be freed from the temptations which Innsbruck -afforded in the way of wine, women, and boon companions he was -compelled by the Emperor to take up his residence at Natters on the -western side of the Sill Gorge above Innsbruck. - -The casting of the statues was largely done by the famous Gregor -Löffler, who established a bronze foundry near Innsbruck, and also -built the Castle of Büchsenhausen, although some of the statues were -undoubtedly cast by Stephen and Melchior Godl and Hans Lendenstreich -who worked at the Mühlau foundry on the outskirts of Innsbruck. -Although the designing and casting of the statues is now generally -accepted as being the work of the men we have named, it is more than -possible that the idea of the whole complete piece of mediæval and -historical symbolism was that of some comparatively unknown brother of -the Franciscan order. Originally the scheme was designed to include, -in addition to the figures we have mentioned, twenty-three others of -saints which were to be placed on raised pedestals or in niches, and -were for this reason of much smaller size. They are now to be seen in -the Silver Chapel. The following is a list of the large statues -grouped around the tomb. - - (1) Clovis, the first Christian King of France. - - (2) Philip the Handsome, of the Netherlands, Maximilian's - son. (1495.) - - (3) The Emperor, Rudolf of Habsburg. - - (4) Albert II. the Wise, Maximilian's great-grandfather. - - (5) Theodoric, King of the Ostrogoths. (455-526.) - - (6) Ernest der Eiserne, Duke of Austria and Styria. - (1377-1424.) - - (7) Theodebert, Duke of Burgundy. (640.) - - (8) King Arthur of England. - - (9) Sigismund der Munzreiche, Count of Tyrol. (1427-96.) - - (10) Maria Bianca Sforza, Maximilian's second wife. Died - 1510. - - (11) The Archduchess Margaret, Maximilian's daughter. - - (12) Cymburgis of Massovica, wife of Ernest der Eiserne. - Died 1433. - - (13) Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, father of Mary of - Burgundy, Maximilian's first wife. - - (14) Philip the Good, father of Charles the Bold. Founder of - the Order of the Golden Fleece. (1419.) Married Margaret of - York, sister of Edward IV., in 1468. (1467-77.) - - (15) Albert II., Duke of Austria, and Emperor of Germany. - (1397-1439.) - - (16) Emperor Frederick III., Maximilian's father. - (1457-93.) - - (17) Leopold III., Margrave of Austria; since 1506 the - patron saint of Austria. (1096-1136.) - - (18) Rudolf, Count of Habsburg. (1273.) - - (19) Leopold III. the Pious, Duke of Austria, Maximilian's - great-grandfather; slain at Sempach. July 9, 1386. - - (20) Frederick IV. of Austria, Count of Tyrol, surnamed "mit - der leeren Tasche." - - (21) Albert I., Duke and Emperor of Austria. Born 1248, - assassinated by his nephew John of Swabia, 1308. - - (22) Godfrey de Bouillon, King of Jerusalem in 1099, wearing - a crown of thorns. - - (23) Elizabeth of Hungary, wife of the Emperor Albert II. - Born 1396. - - (24) Mary of Burgundy, Maximilian's first wife. (1457-82.) - - (25) Eleonora of Portugal, wife of the Emperor Frederick - III., Maximilian's mother. - - (26) Cunigunda, Maximilian's sister, wife of Duke Albert IV. - of Bavaria. - - (27) Ferdinand II., of Aragon, surnamed "the Catholic." - (1479.) - - (27) Johanna, daughter of Ferdinand and Isabella, and wife - of Maximilian's son, Philip I., of Spain. - -[Sidenote: HISTORY IN MARBLE] - -The cenotaph itself, placed upon three steps of red marble, is about -fourteen feet long and six feet high, and is constructed of different -coloured marbles. The figure of the Emperor on top with its face -directed towards the altar, is a fine bronze casting by a Sicilian -named Luigi del Duca made in 1584.[13] Slender columns divide the ends -and sides of the cenotaph into twenty-four panels or compartments of -white marble in which are scenes in relief (depicting the chief events -and achievements of Maximilian's life). These are really marvellous -works of art, not alone for their execution but from the care with -which accuracy has been attained in the costumes, the architectural -and other details introduced, and from the extraordinary finish which -marks the whole of the work. Many of the faces are undoubted portraits -of the greatest historical and antiquarian value, those of the Emperor -at various periods of his life being remarkable for their differing -likeness. The variations of the national types depicted are rendered -with the most painstaking care. The first four of the panels are -filled by the work of Albert and Bernard Abel of Cologne, who began -their task in 1561, after a visit to Genoa to choose the marble. They, -however, both died two years later, leaving their work to be taken up -by Alexander Colin, of Malines, in Flanders, who lived at Innsbruck -for forty years, and died in 1612. Aided by a large number of other -artists he completed the work of the Abels in a period of about three -and a half years. Even the least learned of visitors will recognize -the beauty of craftsmanship which so great a master as Thorwaldsen -pronounced "the most admirable and perfect of its kind." - -The delicacy of execution is, indeed, rather that of ivory than of -marble, and it is not without good cause that these exquisite reliefs -are nowadays protected by glass and surrounded by a railing in iron -work of very beautiful design. - -[Sidenote: SOME HISTORIC EVENTS] - -The subjects, a brief description of which may be of interest, are as -follows:--(1) The marriage of Maximilian (then aged eighteen) with -Mary of Burgundy at Ghent, August 19, 1477. She was killed whilst -hunting by the stumbling of her horse, and was buried at Bruges, 1482. -(2) Maximilian's victory over the French at Guinegate, in 1479. (3) -The taking of Arras, 1482; the fighting men and the fortifications in -this are worthy of special note, not alone for historical accuracy of -detail but also for the marvellously fine execution; one woman in -particular should be noticed, who is bringing provisions to the camp. -This figure is a masterpiece in itself. (4) Maximilian is crowned King -of the Romans at Aix-la-Chapelle in 1486. The scene is the interior of -the Cathedral, Maximilian is seated on the stone chair of Charlemagne -(a sort of throne) before the altar surrounded by his courtiers, whose -dresses and those of the ladies high above in their gallery are a -perfect record of the fashions of the period, so minute is their -accuracy of detail. (5) The Battle of Castel della Pietra, or Stein am -Calliano, situated between Trent and Rovereto in 1487. The landscape -background of this panel is excellent, and the Tyrolese are seen -driving the Venetians with great fury before them across the Adige. -(6) Maximilian's entry into Vienna, 1490, after it had been evacuated -by the Hungarians, an incident in the course of the fight for the -crown of Hungary after the death of Matthias Coryinus who had held -Vienna for several years. The figure of Maximilian on his horse is -very beautifully carved. (7) The siege of Stuhlweissenburg, the city -in which the Kings of Hungary were crowned; Maximilian captured it in -1490. The horses in this tablet are worthy of particular notice. (8) -The return of Margaret, daughter of Maximilian. This episode, which it -must have required some courage to record among the acts of so -glorious a reign, shows Maximilian meeting his daughter Margaret on -her return in 1493, after Charles VIII. had rejected her hand for that -of Anne of Brittany, whom Maximilian himself had intended to marry as -his second wife. The French envoys hand to the Emperor two keys, -symbols of the suzerainty of Burgundy and Artois, the price to be paid -for the double affront of sending back his daughter and depriving him -of his bride, Anne. (9) Maximilian's campaign against the Turks in -Croatia. (10) The Alliance between Maximilian and Pope Alexander VI., -the Doge of Venice, and the Duke of Milan, against Charles VIII. of -France; the four allies are shown standing in the hall of a palace in -the act of joining hands, whilst the French are seen in full flight in -the background. (11) The Investiture at Worms of Ludovico Sforza with -the Duchy of Milan. The portraits of Maximilian are well preserved and -finely executed on each occasion that he is introduced, but in none -better than on this one. The Empress Maria Bianca is seated on the -left of the Emperor, Ludovico Sforza kneels before the throne; on the -waving standard, the symbol or investiture, the ducal arms are -plainly discernible. (12) The marriage at Brussels, in 1496, of Philip -der Schöne, Maximilian's eldest son, with Johanna, daughter of -Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, by the Archbishop of Cambrai. - -The remaining panels show (13) The campaign in Bohemia, and victory of -Maximilian at Regensburg in 1504. (14) The siege of Kufstein, 1504. -(15) The capture of Guelders and submission of Charles d'Egmont to -Maximilian, 1505. The Duke is standing with uncovered head, and the -battered walls of the city are seen in the background. (16) The League -of Cambrai, 1508. The scene is a handsome tent in the camp near -Cambrai; Maximilian, Julius II., Charles VIII., and Ferdinand V. are -meeting to enter into an alliance against Venice. (17) The siege of -Padua, 1509, the first result of this league. (18) The expulsion of -the French from Milan in 1512. (19) The second battle of Guinegate; -known also as the Battle of Spurs, so called from the fact that the -French were said to have used their spurs rather than their swords on -that occasion, with Henry VIII. of England in command of the allied -infantry, August 16, 1513. (20) The meeting of Maximilian and Henry -VIII. before Tournai, 1513. Maximilian and Henry are seen both on -foot. (21) The battle of Vicenza, 1513. (22) The siege of Murano, on -the Venetian coast, 1514. (23) Maximilian treating with Vladislaw, -King of Hungary, for the double marriage of Anna and Ludwig, children -of Vladislaw, with Ferdinand and Maria, grandchildren of Maximilian, -which event had as one of its consequences the subsequent joining of -Hungary with the Empire. (24) The defence of Verona, made by -Maximilian's forces, against the French and Venetians, 1516. - -Maximilian's splendid memorial is well-placed so that its beauty and -impressiveness is given full effect, and the spectator is able to -consider it not only in detail but as a whole. As an example of -sepulchral art of its kind it is unrivalled. - -Of a very different character to this magnificent cenotaph is the tomb -of Andreas Hofer at the entrance to the left aisle, wrought in -Tyrolese marble by Schaller, of Vienna, and with a bas-relief by -Joseph Klieber, of Innsbruck, depicting six Tyrolese taking the oath -of allegiance to the National flag and cause. On either side of the -great patriot lie his comrades, Joseph Speckbacher and Joachim -Haspinger. Near them is a tablet inscribed, "From a grateful -Fatherland to the sons who perished in the Patriotic Wars," with the -date (1838) of erection, and the motto, "Death is swallowed up in -Victory." - -[Sidenote: STATUETTES IN SILVER CHAPEL] - -In the opposite aisle and reached by a flight of steps is the Silberne -Kapelle (Silver Chapel), so known because of the silver statuette of -the Virgin, presented by the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria, who was -Regent of Tyrol from 1563-1595, and the embossed representations of -the Lauretanian Litany, also in silver, which adorn the altar. -Underneath the marble steps by which the chapel is reached is a -notable tomb, the work of Alexander Colin, with a reclining figure of -Katharina von Loxen, aunt of Philippine Welser. In the chapel itself -are the beautiful tombs of the Archduke Ferdinand, and his first wife -Philippine Welser in marble, with effigies which are ascribed to -Alexander Colin. The first named tomb is adorned with four scenes of -events in the Archduke's life in relief; and the latter with two -reliefs. There is also a notable life-size bronze figure of the -Archduke kneeling, clad in full armour, with his face turned towards -the altar, and his hands folded in prayer. These monuments in -themselves are sufficient to ensure a degree of fame for the Silberne -Kapelle with all who are either interested in art or historical -memorials. - -The twenty-three statuettes, originally intended as part of the scheme -of Maximilian's cenotaph, to which reference has already been made, -have been placed in the chapel without following any particular design -or order of arrangement. They have a considerable interest from the -fact that they represent saints of royal or noble birth whose -destinies, legendary or real, have been bound up with those of the -House of Habsburg. They are frequently overlooked by visitors to -Innsbruck and by even those who enter the Hofkirche; but, irrespective -of their individual merits, they should be studied on account of -having originally formed part of the scheme for the magnificent -memorial to Maximilian. - -(1) St. Adelgunda, daughter of Walbert, Count of Hainault. (2) St. -Adelbert, Count of Brabant. (3) St. Doda, wife of St. Arnulf, Duke of -the Moselle. (4) St. Hermelinda, daughter of Witger, Count of Brabant. -(5) St. Guy, Duke of Lotharingia. (6) St. Simpert, Bishop of Augsburg, -son of Charlemagne's sister Symporiana, who rebuilt the monastery of -St. Magnus at Füssen. (7) St. Jodok, son of a king of Great Britain, -wearing a Palmer's dress. (8) St. Landerich, Bishop of Metz, son of -St. Vincent, Count of Hainault, and St. Waltruda. (9) St. Clovis. (10) -St. Oda, wife of Duke Conrad. (11) St. Pharaild, daughter of Witger, -Count of Brabant. (12) St. Reinbert, her brother. (13) St. Ronald, -brother of St. Simpert, Bishop of Augsburg. (14) St. Stephen, King of -Hungary. (15) St. Venantius, martyr, son of Theodoric, Duke of -Lotharingia. (16) St. Waltruda, mother of St. Landerich. (17) St. -Arnulf, husband of St. Doda, afterwards Bishop of Metz. (18) St. -Chlodulf, son of St. Waltruda. (19) St. Gudula, sister of St. Albert, -Count of Brabant. (20) St. Pepin Teuto, Duke of Brabant. (21) St. -Trudo, priest, son of St. Adela. (22) St. Vincent, monk. (23) Richard -Coeur-de-Lion. All of whom were more or less closely related or -associated with the royal house of Habsburg. - -The monuments which we have referred to, gathered within the walls of -the Hofkirche, serve to conjure up for those versed in Tyrolese -history many stirring, romantic, and tragic episodes. To this historic -building was the beautiful Philippine Welser borne from Castle Ambras -to her last resting-place. And here knelt the Archduke Leopold V. at -his marriage with the lovely Claudia Felicitas de Medici, whilst all -the while there rolled the thunder and tumult of the Thirty Years' War -beyond the frontier of Tyrol. And a few years later came Queen -Christian of Sweden to make her abjuration of the Protestant faith on -October 28, 1655. We read in one account of this imposing and -impressive ceremony that the Queen was attired in a plain black silk -gown, and wore no other jewels than a cross on her breast in which -flashed five great diamonds of wonderful beauty symbolical of the five -wounds of Christ. Her repetition of the Latin profession of faith -after the Papal nuncio, we are told, was so clear and emphasized as to -attract general comment. Not only was the Ambrosian hymn sung after -the ceremony, but "the Innsbruckers celebrated the event of her -conversion to the true faith by the firing of cannon and the ringing -of the church bells." An ever popular ceremony which marked her stay -in the town was the procession of the favourite picture of Tyrol, -Cranach's Madonna brought to the country by Leopold V. Mystery plays, -which are still popular in Tyrol, were also performed, and the event -was made the excuse or occasion for much general rejoicing. - -The historic Hofkirche has seen more joyful scenes and sadder than the -renunciation of Queen Christian, for in it was held a solemn -thanksgiving service on behalf of yet another Claudia de Medici, the -Tyrolese princess who was chosen for his bride by the Emperor Leopold -I. And here in more modern times knelt Andreas Hofer to receive the -gifts of his Emperor, the medal and chain which were hung around his -neck when he was made Regent or Governor of Tyrol. - -Into this Hofkirche, which was destined to provide him ultimately with -a fit resting-place, he also came to return thanks after his greatest -triumph over the invaders of his country, on Berg Isel, whilst outside -the church the brave citizens of Innsbruck were acclaiming him -Dictator, and cheering in a delirium of joy. - -[Sidenote: ABBEY OF WILTEN] - -No description of Innsbruck, however brief, could be deemed complete -without at least a passing reference to the famous Abbey of Wilten -which stands on the outskirts of the south-western portion of the -town. The present Abbey belonging to the Praemonstratensian Order was -founded in the eleventh century upon the site where stood the Roman -settlement of Veldidena. The Abbey and Church of that day, however, -have been so frequently damaged by fire that during the centuries it -has been practically reconstructed. The story of its foundation forms -one of the most remarkable of Tyrolese legends, and exhibits in its -incidents with extraordinary clearness the conflict taking place in -those times between the doctrines of Christianity and Heathendom. - -[Sidenote: HAIMON AND THE DRAGON] - -Certain authorities state that the Romans, when they entered the -country, found a town already existing, which they adopted as one of -their most important stations, and re-named Veldidena. This -settlement, however, was, according to tradition, destroyed by Attila -on his way back through the country after the desperate Battle of -Chalons; but it nevertheless continued to be a largely frequented -station in the stretch of country lying between the Po and the Rhine -owing to the convenience of its situation and the existence of the -famous Brenner Road. Afterwards came the expedition of Theodoric of -Verona against Chriemhild's Garden of Roses at Worms; and we are told -amongst those who enlisted in Theodoric's service and distinguished -themselves at the taking of the famous Rose Garden was one Haimo or -Haimon (now believed to be the Heime of "the Heldenbuch") who, after -the expedition, came through Tyrol in his master's victorious train. -This Haimon was a giant, taller and more powerful even than Goliath -himself; and as he approached Veldidena he found barring his progress -another giant named Thyrsus (now identified as Schrudan) living near -Zirl. This latter giant having heard of Haimon's prowess, and as his -own supremacy had hitherto remained unchallenged, determined to force -Haimon to fight him. - -Theodoric's giant proved willing enough for the encounter, and -scarcely, indeed, waited to be challenged. Thyrsus, although the -bigger and more terrible of aspect, with a skin bronzed by the -open-air life he had led, and his muscles developed and kept in -condition by constant exercise, was not so skilful and wily as his -opponent, whose every movement showed him to be a master in both the -arts of attack and defence. - -We are told that Thyrsus grasped in his hand a pine tree which he had -torn up by the roots to serve as a weapon, and that at every movement -of his the ground shook under his tread, which made a noise like -thunder. Rushing impetuously to attack Haimon he found the latter cool -and collected, watchful of his antagonist's every movement, and -waiting patiently for the opportunity of striking a decisive blow. As -the Titanic struggle went on, Haimon merely acting on the defensive, -Thyrsus became weary, and then Haimon gathering all his force together -fell upon him and slew him. - -The story goes on to tell how a Benedictine monk of Tegernsee, passing -whilst Haimon was still flushed with victory, stopped to reason with -him on the worthlessness of mere brutal strength and all that he had -hitherto deemed of value, and succeeded so well in painting the -attractions of a better life that the giant was converted on the spot, -and thenceforth abandoned his life of battle and bloodshed, and -devoted his time and strength to the service of God. One of his first -acts was to start building with his own hands a church and monastery -on the site of ruined Veldidena on the banks of the Sill. - -The legend tells us that he quarried the stone necessary for this -undertaking with his own hands, and at last the day came when he had -sufficient to lay the foundations of the church. He found, however, -that the work he did in the day was always undone at night, so that he -made no progress. This, though he did not know it, was the work of the -devil; who, in the form of a huge dragon, had hidden himself in a cave -with the express purpose of thwarting Haimon's pious intentions. - -At last the latter realized that he must watch and discover what -happened. This he did, and after a little time one evening the dragon -emerged from his cave, lashing the ground with his tail in his fury, -and filling the air with the sulphurous smoke and flame which he -breathed out. Great as was his strength, Haimon at once realized that -he could not overcome so terrible an enemy easily; so commending his -soul to God he waited with a brave heart. Soon dawn began to break -over the mountains, and at the first glimpse of light the dragon -turned and fled back to his lair. Haimon, taking courage at the sight, -set off in pursuit, and by-and-by they both arrived at the cave in -which the dragon was accustomed to hide during the day. The entrance -was so narrow that when the monster had got partly in it was -impossible for him to turn, and so Haimon, seeing his opportunity, -raised his sword, and calling on God to strengthen him, cut off the -dragon's head with a single blow. Then he cut out the tongue or sting -of the monster as a trophy, and eventually hung it up in the sanctuary -of the church. Nowadays one is shown at Wilten a representation of -this dragon's tongue, which we are told was above two feet in length. - -The dragon once dead the building progressed rapidly, and when it was -finished Haimon, no doubt in an ebullition of joy, seized a huge rock, -which he had quarried, but did not need to use for the foundations, -and threw it with all his might into the valley. It was a good throw, -for the rock, after nearly two miles of flight, struck against the -hill of Ambras and fell into the valley, where it may yet be seen! -Haimon endowed the Abbey with all the land which stretched between -its site and the stone at the foot of the hill of Ambras. - -Now it only remained to colonize the monastery, and ultimately the -Benedictines came to inhabit it, and here the giant lived amongst them -a life of penance and good works, dying in the year 878. His body, so -tradition states, was buried on the right-hand side of the high altar -in the church. But although many searches have been made for his -remains during the period which elapsed between his death and the -middle of the seventeenth century, they have never been discovered. -But the last search in 1644 was disastrous as well as unsuccessful, -because it undermined a great part of the wall of the church, which -collapsed. The popular belief in the two giants is kept alive by the -huge wooden statues representing them, which are placed at the -entrance of the church. The interior of the building is in the form of -a basilica, and contains not only frescoes by Caspar Waldmann, but -also some good pictures by Grasmayr, Busjäger, Andersag, Egid Schor, -and other artists. - -The Abbey of Wilten in those days was one of the three most important -in Tyrol, and was not only the centre of religious, but also of the -artistic life of the country, and it nowadays possesses some very -interesting and valuable pictures. - -One of the most famous of the old-time inmates of the Abbey was -Petermann, once a lover of the licentious Margaret of Tyrol, yclept -"Pocket-Mouthed Meg." After her abdication in 1367, Petermann entered -the monastery to expiate the sins and follies of his youth. He endowed -the Abbey with an estate, but he showed his business capacity by -having an agreement drawn up with the Abbot setting forth the terms -upon which he joined the brotherhood. Amongst other things he was, -firstly, to derive benefit from all the masses said by the monks, and -the good works performed by them; secondly, was to have two servants -to wait upon him, who were to share the meals of the brethren; -thirdly, he, himself, was to have food similar to that served to the -Abbot and wines from the monastic cellar. Apparently the arrangement -did not, after all, fit in with the views of Petermann, for we find he -afterwards insisted upon an increase in his food allowance to the -extent of a capon, four fowls, forty eggs, and four pounds of butter, -with sufficient hay for the feeding of his three horses. - - [Illustration: A PINE WOOD NEAR INNSBRUCK] - -[Sidenote: A LEGEND OF WILTEN] - -The other church at Wilten (the Parish Church), which stands on the -opposite side of Leopold-Strasse, dates only from the latter part of -the eighteenth century, and was built as a secular church in -conformity with the decree of the Emperor Joseph II., by Franz Penz of -Telfs, in the Rococo style of architecture. On the high altar of the -church is a very ancient and quaint Madonna known as "Mutter Gottes -unter den vier Saülen" carved in sandstone, the legend relating to -which is as follows: The "Thundering Legion" of Marcus Aurelius, when -stationed at Veldidena about the year 137, brought this image with -them, which they are stated to have worshipped, and on one occasion, -when departing for an expedition to a distant part of the country, -they buried it under four trees, and as they did not return had no -opportunity of resurrecting it. There it lay for many years, until -one, Rathold Von Aiblingen, after making a pilgrimage to Rome, where -he heard the story of its burying and the place of its concealment, -dug it up and set it upon the altar in a _baldachino_, which was -supported by four pillars, where it has always been an object of much -veneration. Amongst its many famous devotees was Frederick of the -Empty Purse, who, during his wanderings through Tyrol with his trusty -Hans Von Müllinen, when under the ban of the church, came and knelt -before the shrine and prayed for a blessing. Afterwards, when he had -regained his possessions, he attributed his success to the -intervention of the Madonna at Wilten and caused a picture to be -painted of himself and his esquire, in which they are shown kneeling -at the shrine under the protective mantle of the Virgin. This quaint -picture is now hung in the church amongst many other curious and often -pathetic votive offerings. - -In the mortuary chapel is a rudely carved and painted wooden statue of -Haimon holding the dragon's tongue in his hand. There are also some of -Grasmayr's paintings to be seen in the church, and in the adjoining -churchyard, from which one can obtain a most beautiful view of the -valley and surrounding mountains, is the modern Calvary by the -Tyrolean sculptor, Professor Fuss. In this quiet spot, crowded with -memories of the dead past, one is able in a measure to conjure up -pictures of the times when the Etruscan, Roman, and Gothic invaders -poured into the valley by the Brenner Pass and overran Tyrol, and left -upon the country and the people enduring traces of their occupation. - -The Wilten Churches are both of simple architectural style, but -nevertheless are effective and even impressive when seen amidst the -environment of a beautiful landscape, with their picturesque, -red-capped towers lit by the Alpine sunlight, and with their -buff-coloured walls beautified by the stains of weather and of time. - -[Sidenote: WINTER SPORTS] - -Numerous as are the undoubted attractions of Innsbruck in early -spring, summer, and autumn, when the encircling fields and mountain -slopes are gay with Alpine flowers, and beautiful with the varied -tints of the foliage of trees and shrubs, the town is yearly becoming -more widely known and more largely frequented as a winter holiday -resort, where what are generally known as "winter sports" can be -indulged in to one's heart's content. Indeed, Innsbruck, which -possesses one of the largest and most beautiful ice rinks in Europe, -takes a very leading part in the Tyrolean winter sports. One of the -town's most remarkable features is its climate, which, notwithstanding -the proximity of huge masses of ice and snow, not only upon the -summits of the towering mountains of the Karwendel, but also on the -lower slopes, and in the valley of the Inn itself, is a mild one, and -the sunny days are many. - -One of the most delightful Alpine experiences possible, for those who -do not take part in the more active sports of ski running, skating, or -tobogganing, is a sleigh ride on the Brenner Road to Matrei or even -further, returning on the other side of the gorge of the Sill by way -of Igls and Patsch. Expert ski runners find many opportunities for -exercising their skill, the more adventurous and hardy making -excursions far afield in the valley of the Inn. A very favourite -ground for this pastime of ski-ing is on the farther side of the Sill -near Natters and Mutters, where are to be found those immense plateaux -of smooth-surfaced snow beloved of good runners, and a beautiful -landscape forming a charming background. Expert runners, however, -frequently extend their field of operations into the Karwendel -mountains, or as far as the Kalkkogel in the beautiful Stubai valley. - -Tobogganing has become not only a fashionable pastime amongst -visitors, but also with the better class inhabitants of Innsbruck. And -thus every evening when the snow is sufficient and in good condition, -hundreds of tobogganers make their way of the heights of Igls and -Mutters, where the best tracks are prepared. - -Sunday is, however, the great day; and then the long runs near Hall -and Oberperfutz are crowded with hundreds of bob-sleighs and -tobogganers. The Hall run is famous throughout Tyrol. A road extends -from Salzberg far into the Karwendel mountains, passing through -beautiful Alpine scenery to Hall itself, forming a natural run or -track some five kilometres (just over three miles) in length, with a -drop of nearly 3000 feet in that distance. The Innsbruck Club, by -means of a snow plough, keeps a run about fifteen feet wide clear. -This track is to be soon further lengthened to the extent of two -kilometres by carrying it as far as Lafatscherjoch, where several -important races are arranged and held every year. - -Winter sports are indulged in on all sides. Along the valley of the -swiftly flowing Inn from Schwaz, past Jenbach and Brixlegg on to -Kufstein, one finds facilities for those most invigorating of pastimes -tobogganing, ski-ing, and skating. Even the children have their little -home-made and often ornamented toboggans, and on the mountain roads -and by-paths one meets with scores of youngsters emulating their -elders and foreign visitors; whilst the frozen tributary streams which -fall into the Inn provide fine skating grounds and curling links -without stint set amid the delightful scenery, which had so much to do -with the popularity of the valley of the Inn and Innsbruck as winter -holiday resorts. - -It is not without reason that many who come to the capital of Tyrol -return again and again, finding in its life and movement, its historic -buildings, associations, and art treasures material for study; in its -climate renewed health and vigour. - -The circle of snow-capped environing hills, upon which effects of -cloud and sunlight ceaselessly pass, never palls; and in the ancient -byways and secluded courtyards ears and minds attuned to the historic -past seem to catch the echoes and see visions of stirring scenes, and -the pageantry of long ago when knights and ladies and serving-men, and -burghers in quaint old-time costumes trod the rough-paved streets. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[10] See Zoller's "Geschichte der Stadt Innsbruck." - -[11] By some authorities the work is stated to have been carried out -by Andrea Crivelli of Trent. - -[12] See Klöppel's "Maximilian." - -[13] This is as stated in Baedeker, and is the view of several -authorities, though by no means certain.-C. H. - - - - -CHAPTER V - - THE ENVIRONS OF INNSBRUCK--CASTLE AMBRAS AND ITS - TREASURES--IGLS: A QUAINT LEGEND CONCERNING ITS CHURCH--THE - STUBAI VALLEY, AND SOME VILLAGES--HALL AND ITS SALT - MINES--SPECKBACHER'S OLD HOME--ST. MICHAEL - - -Distant from Innsbruck about three miles by a shady road running -eastward from Berg Isel, which forms a charming walk of a summer -afternoon, stands the famous Castle Ambras on a well-wooded spur of -the Mittelgebirge overlooking the wide Inn Valley, and with a fine -view of the slopes and peaked summits of the limestone mountains which -shut in the valley. It is a conspicuous and commanding feature of the -landscape when seen from the latter, its yellow-grey walls pierced -with many windows showing up against a background of dark-green -forest. But on a fine summer day Castle Ambras is too bare-looking and -insistent in colour to be entirely picturesque. - -Long back, when the Romans held sway in Tyrol, on the site where the -castle now stands was placed a fort--one of those outposts of -civilization which that world-conquering power dotted so plentifully -amid the hills and valleys of Tyrol. Ancient as this fortress was, it -is considered by many authorities that even it replaced, or was -erected upon the foundations of, a far earlier building dating from -Etruscan times. The first castle, as is generally understood by the -term, was that built by the Andechs, who towards the end of the tenth -century were one of the three chief ruling families in Tyrol. Indeed, -until the Terriolis became Counts of Tyrol they were the most powerful -of the three great temporal territorial lords, and previous to their -extinction in the male line in the middle half of the thirteenth -century had acquired vast possessions. They were a typical mediæval -and feudal family, distinguished alike in the council and upon the -stricken field. In turn it provided officers of the Roman Empire, -pilgrims to sacred shrines, and to Rome itself, crusaders and -religious enthusiasts who founded important and wealthy monastical -institutions. - -The history of the builders of the Castle of Ambras would fill many -volumes with incidents of brave and noble (and sometimes cruel and -ignoble) deeds; romantic episodes, which supplied the travelling -minnesingers with themes for their songs; and records of stirring -events, in which national as well as family history became entwined. -Of them one historian has written, "they were esteemed upon earth, -more particularly by the wandering minstrels who were always and at -all times welcome to their hospitable roof and table, and beloved in -Heaven to which they contributed several saintly souls." - -On the death of the last of the male line of the Andechs, Duke Otto -II., in 1248, the castle and the family estates passed into the -possession of the Counts of Tyrol. Ultimately the former was purchased -from the then owners by the Emperor Ferdinand I., and was given to his -son, afterwards Ferdinand II., when the latter was appointed Regent of -Tyrol. It always remained his favourite home, even when he became -Emperor, and it was to this castle that he brought his beautiful bride -Philippine Welser in 1567. - -[Sidenote: AN ARCHDUCAL ROMANCE] - -The true story of the love of the Archduke Ferdinand, son of the -German Emperor Ferdinand I., will probably never be accurately known. -But the event is indissolubly bound up with Tyrolese history. Not -unnaturally the idyllic and romantic circumstances surrounding the -marriage have been much overlaid by tradition and the possible desire -of historians to make this Royal mésalliance yet more astonishing. -Therefore it is impossible to vouch for the entire accuracy of the -story that has come down to us, which we give as it may be gathered -from contemporary and more modern writers. - -[Sidenote: STORY OF PHILIPPINE WELSER] - -The meeting of the Archduke Ferdinand and his future wife--who was the -daughter of one Franz Welser, a wealthy merchant prince of Augsburg in -the middle of the sixteenth century--took place when the Archduke -accompanied his father on the occasion of the latter's state entry -into the city. It was whilst passing along the principal street that -the former noticed at a window of one of the larger and more important -houses the face of a most beautiful young girl, who, after having -thrown flowers down in the street, on seeing that she had attracted -his attention, blushingly disappeared within the house. It was -apparently, so far as Ferdinand was concerned, a case of love at first -sight; for, charmed by her beautiful face, he lost no time in -discovering who she was, and, according to some authorities, saw her -on several occasions whilst in the city. Afterwards he paid court to -her whilst she was at Bresnic, in Bohemia, on a visit to an aunt. - -Philippine was already betrothed by her father to the heir of the -great and wealthy Fugger family; but fortunately for her and the young -prince, Philippine's mother was a woman of much influence with her -husband as well as the confidante and friend of her daughter. However, -it was not an easy task to win his consent to the betrothal to Prince -Ferdinand or for the proposed alliance with the Fuggers to be broken -off. - -Both the fathers were anxious for it, and Welser had never been known -to go back upon his word or a bargain. But whilst the older men were -engaged in counting their wealth, and congratulating themselves upon -the marriage which had been arranged with little or no thought of -affection between those most concerned, Ferdinand had evolved a plan -by which, with the assistance and connivance of Frau Welser, he was -able to accomplish his design of carrying off her daughter. - -On a day arranged, and at the hour agreed upon, the young prince, who -was two years Philippine's junior, appeared beneath the turret from -which he had first seen her leaning. A little distance down the street -his horse was waiting. Philippine, after receiving her mother's -blessing, and comforted by her approval, joined her lover, and fled -with him to the chapel where the latter's own confessor, one Joann -Cavallerus, was waiting to solemnize the marriage, with an old and -trusted servant as witness. Another account states that the ceremony -was performed at Bresnic by the same priest. - -Ultimately, Franz Welser, to whom doubtless a properly carried out -marriage with a prince had some attractions, gave his consent and -benediction. It is difficult, perhaps, in these more materialistic -days, to quite sympathize with the attitude which this wealthy and -worthy burgher of Augsburg at first assumed towards his daughter's -marriage. Then, with reputable merchants, not only was their word -their bond, but in them was a strong element of pride which would not -readily brook that they should be looked down upon even by princes. -And doubtless it was this pride which was principally at the back of -old Welser's opposition to Prince Ferdinand's suit. But the -magnificent dowry that Philippine's father was rich enough to give her -was one of which no prince need have been ashamed. - -At the time of his marriage the Archduke was twenty-eight and -Philippine two years older. The Emperor, of course, refused to -acknowledge the marriage when he ultimately, some years after its -celebration, became aware of it. And although we are bound to admit -the story of Philippine's personal appeal to him to forgive his son -and her rests on a very shadowy basis, and is, indeed, rather -traditional than historical, we give it for what it is worth. - -The story goes that Philippine, distressed not only for her own -position but for the trouble she had brought upon her husband by -estranging him from his father the Emperor, journeyed to Vienna with -her little children to gain an audience with her royal father-in-law -in person. To do this was a matter of great difficulty, and though she -ultimately succeeded, it was only by reason of her great beauty and -her gentleness, and the fact that she had assumed another name. Then, -after entering the audience chamber, she fell upon her knees and told -the Emperor her own story in the guise of an allegory, saying that she -was the happy and beloved wife of a gallant nobleman of great position -whose father would not recognize her because she was herself not nobly -born; adding that, hearing how just and good the Emperor was, she had -come to him to implore him to intercede for her and her sons with her -obdurate father-in-law. Having listened to her tale the Emperor, -delighted with the grace, eloquence, and beauty of Philippine and with -her two sons, told her that he would grant her request and would -appeal to her father-in-law to not only forgive his son, but to -recognize the marriage, adding that it passed his comprehension how -any one could refuse to receive so charming and beautiful a woman into -his family. Then, as was to be expected, he asked the name of her -husband's father. And she, throwing herself once more upon her knees, -told the Emperor that it was he himself to whom she had referred, and -that she was the wife of his son Ferdinand. - -The Emperor could scarcely go back upon his word nor could he stultify -himself by denying the charm and beauty of Philippine now that he -discovered who she really was; and won over by the courage and -persistency which had inspired her journey to Vienna to seek to -approach him in person, he not only forgave his son but also -recognized her as a daughter-in-law. Some accounts, although this is -probably not so, state that he wished the marriage still to remain a -secret, and appointed Ferdinand Regent of Tyrol, sending him and his -wife to reside at Innsbruck.[14] - -The Emperor's wishes were carried out, and it is said that it was not -until her death generally known that Philippine was actually married -to the Archduke. After her decease, however, the circumstance was made -public and the Archduke was always accustomed to refer to Philippine -as his wife. Of course the marriage was a morganatic one, and -therefore neither of her two surviving children, Andreas and Charles, -inherited the Archducal titles. - -Four years previous to the Archduke Ferdinand's coming to take up his -residence at Innsbruck as Regent of Tyrol he had acquired the -picturesque and finely situated Castle of Ambras, and by many -alterations and additions to the then existing building soon made it -one of the most noted as well as one of the most beautiful residences -in the whole country. He furnished it with great magnificence, and -when all was completed presented it to his wife Philippine. Here they -usually spent the summer months in a happiness which was not only -proverbial but undoubted. - -As have been several other rulers of Tyrol, the Archduke Ferdinand was -not only greatly interested himself in art, science, and literature, -but he sought as the patron of these to gather around his person and -to attach to his Court learned professors, artists, and scientists -from all parts of Europe. As a result the court of Ferdinand and -Philippine grew from an artistic, musical, and intellectual standpoint -to be a particularly brilliant one. - -[Sidenote: CHARACTER OF PHILIPPINE] - -The character of Philippine seems to have been as pleasing as was her -physical appearance. She is said to have had a fine, clear, though -somewhat pale, complexion, blue eyes, and golden hair, although it -must be added that existing portraits of her do not do her justice in -the latter regard, unless her beauty was greatly exaggerated. In most -of them she appears with a slightly oval, and more Italian than -Teutonic type of face, with well-marked and well-bowed eyebrows, soft, -but intelligent eyes, a straight nose, and a very sweet, and even in -some portraits "roguish," mouth; but as a whole her face is not one of -striking beauty, judging it by the standards of more modern times. - -Philippine, when settled at Ambras, greatly interested herself in good -works of all kinds, but more especially in the visiting and care of -the sick, and the memory of her good deeds in this respect is still -cherished in Tyrol. Her chief physician has set down the large number -of sick who were at various times under her immediate care, and in the -record one finds mention of ailing folk of many nationalities, showing -her Catholic spirit in the relief of suffering. She even had her own -dispensary at Ambras in the charge of one Guranta, who was a -celebrated chemist of that time. Concerning her one of her biographers -says, "She, herself delicate in health from early life, had a strong -and ever ready sympathy for sufferers, especially those who were -distressed in mind or circumstance as well as in body." - -During the years she lived at Ambras she gained such a knowledge of -disease and the remedies usually employed in those days that she wrote -a book of prescriptions herself, which is now to be seen in the Court -Library, Vienna. It is a most interesting volume, as it contains a -considerable record of the effects of the remedies used; sometimes -written by Philippine's own hand with remarks added as comments upon -the success or failure of the treatment. - -Philippine was in other ways also of a philanthropic and kindly -disposition, and on many occasions girls in her service, or who were -known to her, received the pleasant surprise on their marriage of a -wedding dress from her; and there is still to be seen at Innsbruck a -dressmaker's bill, the total amount of which is largely comprised of -wedding dresses given in the way we have mentioned. - -Although the burgomaster's daughter, according to her own confession, -would rather have led a less exalted and more retiring life than that -incumbent upon her by reason of her marriage with the Archduke -Ferdinand, all writers are agreed that she ably and well adorned the -position to which she had been called. Of her husband's great -affection for her there can be little doubt. Indeed, it was so -notorious that the Venetian Ambassador Michiele, when on a visit to -the Archduke, reported to his Government that Ferdinand was never so -happy as when with his wife, and in fact was never an hour away from -her. - -Philippine, in spite of her many social duties and exalted position, -was an excellent and even an ideal German _haus-frau_. She was a -clever needlewoman, skilled especially in embroidery; and quite an -expert and practical cook. She might, indeed, be said to have rivalled -the famous Mrs. Glass, as she wrote an exhaustive cookery book which -displays a great and practical knowledge of the culinary art, and is, -happily for the curious, preserved with her book of prescriptions in -the Court Library at Vienna. - -Nothing was too good for Philippine in the estimation of the Archduke. -Not only did he give her the magnificent Schloss Ambras, Stubai -Valley, and all it contained, several villages, and vast sums of -money, but also the estates of Königsberg, Salurn, and Hörtenberg. - -[Sidenote: COURT AT CASTLE AMBRAS] - -The Court at Innsbruck and at Castle Ambras was a gay one, and -numerous brilliant entertainments were given during the married life -of Ferdinand and Philippine. Amongst the many _fêtes_ which took place -at various times one finds a record of one in the diary of James von -Payersberg bearing the date of July 13, 1570, in which there is a -record of Philippine having won the first prize, which was a silver -gilt cup of great value, for shooting with a crossbow; whilst her -aunt, Madame De Loxan, who on Philippine's marriage had been appointed -as her Mistress of the Robes, won the second. An interesting -circumstance in connection with this _fête_ is that the gentlemen and -ladies competed together in the shooting match, with the result that -the former were defeated in the manner we have stated. - -At Castle Ambras not only were there collected together scientists, -artists, musicians, and many learned men, but also, as was the custom -of those days, jesters, and "freaks" of various types, whose curious -divergences from the normal have many of them been preserved in -portraits hung in the Castle. Of ordinary servants, retainers, pages, -etc., there was always a huge retinue entailing an enormous -expenditure and a commissariat department of considerable magnitude. -Philippine, although her natural tastes were so divergent from those -of her husband who loved gaiety, sport, and the pomp of circumstance, -by her gentleness, affectionate study of his wishes and great -tactfulness, succeeded in not only gaining but keeping his affection -throughout their married life. It is said that Philippine, whether the -story of her captivation of her royal father-in-law's heart be true or -not, was gladly and very generally received by the Tyrol nobles, who -were distinguished not only by their chivalrous but also by their -generally haughty disposition. Very friendly relations also appear to -have existed with neighbouring courts, whilst Pope Gregory XIII. had -so high an opinion of Philippine's religious sincerity and virtues -that he sent her by special ambassador a beautiful and very valuable -rosary. - -Philippine died in 1580, surrounded by members of her family, and in -the presence of the Archduke Ferdinand and the Dukes Ferdinand of -Bavaria and Henry of Brunswick, after a married life lasting -twenty-three years, and an illness of only a few days' duration. So -beloved was she throughout Tyrol that general mourning was observed -for some months, and masses were said in all the churches of the land -for the repose of her soul. How great the affection borne her by the -people amongst whom she came to live really was, is well shown by the -fact that in many a cottage home in Tyrol portraits of her even -nowadays are found. - -In death as in life she was mindful of her people and of the poor; and -when she had been laid to rest in the Silver Chapel of the Franciscan -Church at Innsbruck, where her beautiful though unostentatious tomb, -with its recumbent figure lying within a semi-circular arch and with a -crucifix hanging from her crossed hands, is placed, it was found that -in her will few of her household had been forgotten, whether their -positions were high or menial. - -The death of Philippine was a heavy blow to the Archduke, and for some -months after the event he lived in complete retirement, seeing no one -but his two sons, his Father Confessor, and his most intimate personal -friends. - -However, after his grief had somewhat spent itself, he set out on a -tour, accompanied by his two surviving children; one of whom, Karl, -became Bishop of Brixen and a Cardinal (died 1600); the other, -Andreas, Markgrave of Burgau (died 1618), and the owner of Castle -Ambras by the will of his father. This bequest was made on condition -that Andreas maintained and kept the building in repair, and preserved -the magnificent collection of rare MSS., books, pictures, coins, -armour, and other _objets d'art_, and curiosities which Ferdinand and -Philippine had delighted to gather, and in the possession of which -they had taken such pride. - -Eventually, in 1606, so that this wish of his father might be -adequately carried out, Andreas disposed of the Castle and grounds to -the Emperor Rudolf II., and by this means Ambras and its unrivalled -collection came into the possession of the Imperial Austrian family. - -[Sidenote: TREASURES OF CASTLE AMBRAS] - -Just two centuries later, owing to fear lest the priceless treasures -should fall into the hands of the French and Bavarian invaders, the -greater portion of the Ambras collection was removed to Vienna, and at -first lodged in the Belvidere Palace from whence it has of recent -years been transferred to the Imperial Art History Museum of which it -forms a most interesting and valuable part. Thus was Tyrol robbed of -one of its chief glories, and although at various times promises of -restitution have been made they have never been fulfilled. - -There are still, however, some interesting things left at Castle -Ambras, including the valuable collection of Weapons lodged in the -Unterschloss, dating from the fifteenth century to the present day -(formerly, in the sixteenth century, it is said that the Armoury -contained no less than five hundred complete suits of mail); the eight -Roman milestones in the outer court, found along the road from Wilten -to Schonberg, and dating from the time of Septimus Severus about 193 -to 211 A.D.; and the collection of furniture, ivories, glass, and -portraits, which latter include several of the Archduke Ferdinand and -Philippine Welser, etc. - -On the ground floor of the Hoch Schloss or "upper castle" is an -interesting and well-restored fifteenth-century Gothic chapel, with -some frescoes by Wörndle; and a bathroom, said to be that of -Philippine, is on the same floor. It was around this little room that -tradition wove the tragic story (since disproved and altogether -discredited) of Philippine having committed suicide by opening one of -her veins in order that her husband might re-marry with some one whose -rank was more in conformity with his own. For many years, for several -generations, in fact, this tale was given credence, and was accepted -by at least the common folk as exemplifying the domestic virtues for -which Philippine was justly famed. But although Ferdinand's mother -appears never to have accepted the position or to have become -reconciled to Philippine, the rest of the members of his family appear -to have treated her well, and, so far as history can show, there never -was any reason for the sacrifice of her life she was for so long -supposed to have made, in the interests of her husband's happiness and -position. - -The fame of Philippine Welser has outlived the centuries which have -elapsed since she died; and the burgher of Augsburg's daughter was -destined to become one of the most popular of Tyrolese heroines; and -there is in consequence many a peasant home in Tyrol to-day where her -portrait in some form of reproduction or other has a place with that -of some favourite saint or even the Virgin herself. - -There are several other traditions connected with this beautifully -situated Castle of Ambras. One is that Wallenstein, whilst a lad and a -page in Ferdinand's service, fell out of the window in the corridor -which leads to the dining-hall and received no hurt, owing to the fact -that during the terrible moment when he lost his balance he vowed to -the Virgin Mary if spared he would lead a more serious and better -life. - -The castle, as did so many historic fortress-dwellings in Tyrol, -gradually fell into decay; but when the Archduke Karl Ludwig, who was -Governor of Tyrol during a short period in the middle of the last -century, decided to take up his residence here it was thoroughly -repaired and restored. The Art treasures, which remained after the -removal of the main collections to Vienna, have been supplemented from -time to time by contributions from the Imperial collections in Vienna, -and in 1882 the Emperor threw open the castle to the public as a -Museum. - -Of the many interesting rooms at Ambras two never fail to arouse the -admiration and curiosity of visitors. The first is the Waffensaal, in -which there is a collection of armour and arms, which has a -sixteenth-century ceiling painted by G. B. Fontana, of Meran, with -astronomical and mythological designs; the second, the famous and -magnificently proportioned Spanish salon, with its exquisitely -panelled wood ceiling and walls adorned with frescoes of the rulers of -Tyrol, from 1221-1600. - -The view from the terrace, with its trellis of passion flowers and -vines, across the Inn valley on a clear summer's day is one of great -charm and beauty, and as one gazes across the fertile valley to the -wonderful range of mountains that towers above it, the colours of -which seem to change with every passing cloud, one can realize -something of the affection Ferdinand, art lover and artist as he -undoubtedly was, always had for Castle Ambras. - -[Sidenote: THE TOURNEY GROUND] - -None who come to the castle should fail to visit the picturesque and -secluded Tummel-platz or Tourney ground, which overhangs as it were -the village of Ambras, with its ancient church and quaint frescoes of -the Last Judgment. On this spot during Ferdinand and Philippine's -occupation of the Castle many jousts and knightly encounters are said -to have taken place. From the gay and chivalrous use of those and -previous times the Tummel-platz has passed to a melancholy one as the -burial-ground of patriots and heroes. It was first put to this purpose -when the Castle was turned into a military hospital--which for a short -time it remained--and afterwards as the burial-place of some seven or -eight thousand of Hofer's soldiers who fell in the wars with France -and Bavaria, from 1809 to 1810. Indeed, it actually formed part of the -battle-ground of 1809. - -As is perfectly natural, and in accord with the patriotic and -religious spirit of the people, they have adorned the quiet and -beautiful burial-ground with chapels, shrines, votive pictures, and -memorials which confer upon it a distinctive and impressive interest, -and sentiment which few such places can show. As a poet sings-- - - "Near Ambras, on the upland, - In fair Tyrolean land, - Within a cool green forest - Full thick the crosses stand. - - "There gallant knights in armour - Once met with spear and shield, - And from those olden combats - 'Tis called the 'Tourney Field.' - - "Long rusted are the lances, - But, as the breezes blow, - Old, half-forgotten stories - Like spirits come and go." - -From Castle Ambras it is but a short journey by tramway to Igls, which -is situated nearly a thousand feet above Innsbruck, but cannot be seen -from the town. There are also two roads by which one may reach this -little mountain village; one leading past Ambras, which is favoured by -the less energetic of walkers, and the other, by which we ascended, -much steeper, more picturesque and shorter. From Wilten it passes over -the Sill Bridge and then ascends the Paschberg and winds along the -edge of the fine Sill Gorge. When the little village of Vill is -reached one seems suddenly to step into a fresh region of experience; -one singularly different from that of Innsbruck, which, after all, -lies but a mile or two away in the valley down below. Here as one -comes in sight of the elegantly tapering red spire of the church one -obtains an insight into the life of the upper valleys, and soon -notices the Tyrolese custom of adorning the outside walls of the house -with paintings, which, generally religious in subject, are many of -them of a striking and even meritorious character as regards -execution. In Vill none should fail to notice the painting of the -Angel of Peace, which is over the doorway of a house in the main -street. - -[Sidenote: BEAUTIFUL IGLS] - -One of the most beautiful walks hereabouts is that by the path which -leads down through the woods to Gärberbach inn on the great Brenner -High Road, from which point Berg Isel can be reached on foot in less -than half an hour. - -Still climbing upwards from Vill and leaving the sights and sounds of -the valley behind us we gradually approach Igls. Innsbruck and every -trace of the wide valley and environing hills across it have suddenly -vanished, and one finds one's self in the midst of wide extending and -restfully green upland pastures, with a vista of the charmingly -situated little villages of Natters and Mutters, across the Sill Gorge -(which here is almost imperceptible) with their church steeples, green -tinged and red turreted, shining in the clear Alpine air, and giving -to the scene just that touch of colour which an artist loves. - -It is possible in Alpine valleys such as that in which Igls nestles to -more truly estimate the factors which make the Tyrolese such a -home-loving and patriotic people; and to realize how the chief human -as well as religious associations even nowadays--as they did in the -past--cluster round the village churches which rear their slender -spires Heavenwards almost wherever half a dozen houses are grouped -together. - -There are many splendid peaks towering above the picturesque valley in -which Igls lies; amongst them the Habicht, more than 10,700 feet, -Saile-Spitze, and the rugged Waldraster-Spitze, 8920 feet; and the -lower slopes are well-wooded and beautiful at all seasons in their -varied tints of green. - -Igls has altered considerably since we first visited it, and it now -has the aspect of a mountain health "resort" of a modest and -unassuming type, with some good hotels, a post office, telephone and -telegraph. It is little wonder, then, that this favoured spot should -have lately attracted to it many visitors in search of quietude and -fresh air. The clean air and pure breezes off the glaciers and -snow-fields above, which, filtering down across the pine woods of the -lower slopes, come to one in the open valley not less fresh and -invigorating but somewhat softened and perfumed, give it one of its -chief charms. - -The little church is of considerable interest, not only from its -picturesque situation, but also by reason of the pastoral scenes which -are painted upon its organ loft, and the many quaint relics and votive -offerings to be seen in it, which are a feature of so many Tyrolese -village churches. The mural paintings on the houses in the village are -numerous and curious, some of the most interesting relating to the -legendary story of the Heilig Wasser. In connection with this there is -a pilgrimage chapel picturesquely situated, in almost absolute -solitude save for the Inn, on the mountain side more than two thousand -feet above the valley. - -[Sidenote: A MIRACULOUS TALE] - -The church is built upon the site of the alleged miracle, the story -concerning which is as follows:--Three centuries ago two cowherds were -tending their flocks upon the upper pasture above Igls, when they were -unfortunate enough to lose two young calves; and although they sought -for them far and wide along the paths and amid the woods they failed -to find them. At length, quite wearied out, and frightened lest they -should be severely punished for their carelessness by their father, -they fell on their knees and supplicated the Virgin and Saints to help -them. Almost as soon as they commenced to pray a bright light fell -upon them and round about, and the Virgin appearing beside them bade -them be of good cheer, and told them to trouble no more as the lost -cattle had gone home to their byre. Then she bade them drink, for -their throats were parched with their wanderings. But the two lads, -knowing there was no water near, exclaimed, "You tell us to drink, but -where shall we find water? There is none here." - - [Illustration: MOUNTAIN POOL ON THE RITTEN] - -The Virgin made no reply but vanished; and as she disappeared from -their vision there welled up, where she had stood, a spring of clear -water from out the rocks, which has never ceased to flow since. - -On their return home the boys refrained from saying anything about the -vision or the miraculous spring, perhaps lest, notwithstanding the -calves had been found in the cowshed as the Virgin had promised, they -should be blamed for careless herding. But they never failed, when -passing by the spring, to offer up a prayer of gratitude. - -Many years passed and the two cowherds not only grew to man's estate -but became old and infirm, needing the assistance of others to look -after their flocks. One of the two was aided by the deaf and dumb son -of a neighbour, and one day, as the old man and boy were passing the -spring, the former knelt down and prayed and drank of the water. The -boy seeing him do this did likewise, and lo and behold he found his -tongue miraculously loosened, and afterwards spoke as clearly as any -other. - -The fame of the miracle spread abroad, and was readily believed by the -people of the valley. Then the two old men told their own experience, -and soon a chapel was built on the spot to which through the centuries -many devout pilgrims as well as many curious visitors have journeyed. - -Amid the woods by which Igls is surrounded, and along the fertile -valley in which the village stands, are many charming walks, and -yearly the place is becoming more resorted to by those who appreciate -the lovely and bracing mountain air, and a very pleasant form of what -has become known as the "simple life." - -To the south-west of Igls and south of Innsbruck across the Sill is -the lovely Stubai Valley, the beauty of which almost challenges that -of the Oetzthal. Like the latter this valley is also verily the gate -to the land of snow-fields and glaciers, of which there are upwards of -eighty within its confines and hard by. The Stubai Thal is a -combination of scenery of widely different character. Within a radius -of a few miles, towering above its green and peaceful pastures, at -least two score of magnificent peaks rear their heads skyward, none of -which fall far short of (whilst many exceed) 10,000 feet in altitude. -The lower portion of the valley is reminiscent of the far-famed, -music-loving Zillerthal, with its dark-green pine forests, fertile -meadows, and villages perched here and there on the slopes of the -mountains, or nestling in the valley itself around the white-walled -churches. This kind of scenery extends some little way beyond the -village of Neustift, which is the last in the valley having a church, -and then one seems to at once pass into a mysterious, wonderful, and -fascinating region, where the legendary gnomes and ice-maidens of -Tyrolean folk-tales and lore must surely dwell in caverns and -habitations of perpetual ice and snow. - -Though there is a good mountain road winding up the hillside above -Wilten, which in former times served the picturesque villages Natters, -Mutters, Kreith, and Telfes, most travellers nowadays use the electric -railway (the first made in Tyrol) for the journey to Fulpmes, which -lies about half-way to Neustift and is rapidly becoming a favourite -excursion resort for Innsbruck people. - -The railway (although it has been called a "toy" one) presents -considerable features of interest to the engineer, and elements of -apparent--but not actual--danger to the timorous. At least, one lady -we know who had made the upward journey, had been across the slender -viaduct supported on tapering piers, and had been whirled round curves -of astonishing "sharpness," refused--until the distance by road had -been pointed out to her--to return the same way. But there is in -reality no risk on the Stubai Bahn, only an element of pleasant -excitement, and the charm of wonderful scenery; and the latter is so -beautiful and the little saloon cars so well adapted for viewing that -few will, after all, we think, regret travelling to Fulpmes by -train instead of a-foot or by carriage. The place was formerly -celebrated for its iron and steel works; the articles made finding -their way not only to Austria, but also to Germany and Italy; and -although of late years the trade appears to have somewhat declined, it -is still considerable and of interest to the curious who can watch the -skilful artisans at work. The village is most picturesquely situated, -and in the church there are some paintings by a local peasant girl -quite worth seeing. Fulpmes forms an excellent centre from which to -make excursions in the upper portions of the lovely valley, and amid -the wooded slopes of the environing mountains. In summer there is the -additional charm of the wealth of beautiful wild flowers which gem the -fields, and spread like a many-coloured carpet of glowing tints -beneath the shadow-casting and sombre pines. - - [Illustration: VIADUCT ON STUBAI RAILWAY] - - [Illustration: VIEW OF THE GROSSGLOCKNER] - -[Sidenote: FULPMES AND SCHONBERG] - -At Schonberg, south of Igls, and on the opposite bank of the Sill, -standing nearly 3500 feet above sea level, one obtains a most -widely-extended and panoramic view of the Stubai Valley and its -villages. And as one stands in the Alpine observatory near the -"Jagerhof," one is able to realize the full beauty of the valley, and -the wonder of the mountain summits, including the Serles Spitz (also -known in Innsbruck as the Waldraster Spitz), whose rugged peaks remind -one of those giants in the Dolomites. - -But perhaps one of the most strange and interesting natural phenomena -in all Tyrol is to be seen from Schonberg when the snow-fields, which -in winter completely cover the mountain tops on every hand, begin to -melt. Then gradually there appear in different parts of the upper -slopes of the mountain ranges dark spots which, framed in unmelted -snow, at last assume the appearance of silhouettes of gigantic size. -On the peaks away above Innsbruck are slowly formed the figures of two -women who appear to be fighting, and whose noses as the snow melts -become more hooked and longer each day; on the Solstein a priest is -seen carrying an _aspergillus_ in his hand, whilst on the -Arzletscharte appears the most complete "picture" of them all, known -as the "Falconer." This, a silhouette of remarkable vividness, depicts -a youth dressed in a page's costume, adorned with a hat and plumes, -and carrying on his left arm a falcon unhooded for flight. As the snow -melts the figure loses its pristine slimness and assumes the form of a -corpulent man, until at last it entirely disappears. On the side of -the Patscherkofel is seen the figure of an old hunter with his dog; -which, however, owing to the rapid melting of the snow when once a -thaw commences, is only visible for a short time. Indeed, a few hours -after we first saw it, for the reason we have given, the change was so -great that the outline was almost destroyed. - -Hall, from time immemorial famous for its salt mines, is well worth a -visit. Lying on the north or opposite side of the Inn to Igls, and to -the east of Innsbruck, it can be reached either by the prosaic -post-road which traverses the Valley, or from Igls by the beautiful -Ellbögen road--a branch of the Brenner road dating from Roman -times--passing over the Mittelgebirge and through Igls, Lans, Aldrans, -Ampass, across the bridge over the Inn to Hall, which is somewhat -longer. Equally picturesque, perhaps one might say even more so, is -yet another road (the one we preferred) which skirts the lower slopes -of the towering peaks of the Bavarian Alps, and passes through the -villages of Arzl, Rum, and Thaur. There are also the alternatives of -the Brenner railway, and the tramway for those who are poor walkers or -are pressed for time. - -[Sidenote: SOME PRETTY VILLAGES] - -From Mühlau onwards one has most exquisite views of the broad and -fertile valley, and the magnificent mountains which tower above the -wooded slopes, swelling gently upward from the Inn, in wild and craggy -peaks of rugged beauty. This walk is rendered additionally attractive -and picturesque for all who are interested in folk-lore, or who are -able to enter into the legend and religion of the people, by the -pilgrimage chapels which are found along the route. One of the most -charming of these in all Tyrol is that of Arzl, which, standing on a -wooded knoll, is brilliant with colour, a gem of its kind in a -charming setting of dark green. The little church of Maria Loreto -built by the religiously inclined Anna Katharina Gonzaga, second wife -of Ferdinand II., was once a famous pilgrimage place, but of late -years has been much less resorted to than formerly. The interior is, -however, well worth inspection. The wood carvings and iron work are -both interesting, as are also the old engravings which hang upon the -walls, and the curious black Virgin and Child upon the Altar. - -Arzl, Rum, and Thaur are all picturesquely situated, nestling as they -do on the lower slopes of the great limestone peaks, the first named -standing at the foot of the Burgstall which rises majestically to a -height of nearly three thousand five hundred feet. Many of the houses -in these three villages are most elaborately decorated with mural -paintings; in some instances the whole of the fronts are so adorned, -and often masses of corn hang on trellis work on the walls. The effect -of the brilliant tints of the paintings and the coloured window frames -gives an additionally picturesque air to the little villages. Seen in -summer the gay effect is perhaps a little neutralized, but in winter, -when the landscape is more cheerless and there is a background of snow -and grey-green rocks, the picture formed is a unique and wonderfully -cheering one. - -Concerning Thaur, where so many houses have either a painting or an -image of a man with a bear upon their fronts, there is a legend of St. -Romedius, who centuries ago came riding into the village blessed with -a keen appetite gained by exercise in the invigorating mountain air. -Whilst the saint was engaged in satisfying his hunger, a wandering -bear, so the legend goes, was so impressed with the holy man's -accomplishment in this respect that he promptly (for want of other -food) emulated it by eating Romedius' horse. On coming out to renew -his journey the Saint was astounded at the disappearance of his steed. -He, however, seems to have guessed what had happened, and forthwith -preached the bear such a sermon upon his iniquitous conduct that he -was not only moved to penitence, but also sought to make amends by -offering himself as a substitute for the Saint's former steed. - -Although the proposal might appear to us as accompanied with some -considerable risk when the bear once more became hungry, the Saint -accepted it, and ultimately set forth on his strange steed to a cave -in the mountains north of Thaur, where they lived for some -considerable time without mishap. One day, however, as the holy man -slept, a troublesome fly came buzzing round his head, and the sleeper -failed to drive it away, with the result that the bear (who we are -told had all this time watched over his master with great solicitude) -came to the rescue and sought to get rid of it; however, without -success. The fly returned again and again to the charge, and the bear -in desperation aiming a blow at the fly, alas! struck and killed the -Saint. This time the grief of the bear was, of course, of no avail, so -he would eat nothing and gradually pined away, ultimately dying of -hunger. - -This story, though it has its comical side, is not, however, held to -be disrespectful to the life and character of Romedius, who is one of -the best esteemed Tyrolese saints. It appears more than probable, -however, that Romedius (whether killed by his companion the bear or -not) actually died in the Nonsthal, South Tyrol, where there are, -strange to say, villages of somewhat similar names to those we have -mentioned, namely, Torro, Rumo, and Arz. - - [Illustration: THE MARKET PLACE, HALL] - -[Sidenote: HALL AND ITS MÜNSTERTURM] - -Hall, which is one of the most picturesque, busy, and interesting -little towns in the neighbourhood of Innsbruck, with some 6000 -inhabitants, dates from the time of the Roman occupation of Tyrol. By -the well-known historian, Beda Weber, the name is stated to have been -derived from the Greek word [Greek: halos], salt; the reason for such -derivation from an unlikely language he does not, however, in any way -seek to explain. As one enters the town one is at once struck by the -strange and quaint mingling of the picturesque with the utilitarian, -the rural with the mediæval. Long before one reaches the town one sees -in the distance the greenish copper cupolas of the Pfaarkirche or -Parish Church which has so fine a Gothic portal and interesting -relics, around whose walls shops are grouped; and rising above the -other less lofty and less time-mellowed buildings, the massive Gothic -tower known as the Münsterturm with its red "pepper-box" roof of Roman -origin, although the present tower was built by Duke Sigismund, the -famous son of Frederick of the Empty Purse. A steeply ascending street -leads to the market square, in which the Pfaarkirche and Rathaus stand -opposite each other. And in this and contiguous streets there are many -quaint balconies, gabled roofs, and old-time architectural features to -interest and charm the artist and antiquarian visitor. - -Although Hall has somewhat declined as a commercial centre with the -rise of its big neighbour, Innsbruck, it is still a place of -considerable activity on account, chiefly, of the famous salt mines. -In former times these and its position on the banks of the Inn (then -much more navigable) gave the place importance under the rule of the -Counts of Tyrol, and the earlier of the Austrian princes; many barges -and boats from the Danube itself in former times making their way into -the Inn and thence to the flourishing town of Hall. The salt works -still remain its principal industry. Hall is, as things go in Tyrol, a -distinctly smoky town; but it is seldom that the smoke hangs in the -clear and fresh Alpine air which sweeps along the Inn valley down -from the environing hills. - -The Münsterturm, mint tower, which, as we have said, is so prominent -an object on approaching the town, is of historical interest from the -fact that it was built to enable Duke Sigismund, known as the Rich, to -turn into coin his great store of silver taken from the Tyrol -mountains. It was from this tower, too, that Andreas Hofer issued his -Kreuzer and twenty Kreuzer pieces during the period of his brief -dictatorship. - -As was the case with many another Tyrolean town, Hall suffered in the -past from the calamities which afflicted so many similar places in the -Middle Ages. It was swept in turn by fire, sword, and pestilence, and -shaken to its foundations by the earthquake which occurred in 1670. So -severe was the shock, we are told, that the watchman on the parapet of -the church tower was thrown off and killed by falling to the ground, -and the people fled out of their houses to the open fields where their -priests exhorted them to prepare for the Day of Judgment. That the -alarm created was very great is borne out by the fact that, although -the loss of life would appear from contemporary sources of information -to have been slight, for some time afterwards the services of the -church were all performed in the open air. Hall, however, chiefly on -account of its salt mine resources, recovered, and these and the many -privileges the burghers enjoyed enabled them in time to regain their -former prosperity. - -The town played an important part in the various wars which had Tyrol -for their battleground during the Middle Ages; and during the -Patriotic War the people of Hall were not less brave and -self-sacrificing than those of other places. One gallant deed in -especial of that long struggle for freedom is directly connected with -the town. In May, 1809, Joseph Speckbacher (who was born on a -Gnadenwald farm near Hall in 1767) and his troops attacked the -Bavarians at Volders, near Hall, and after blowing up the bridge -behind him he marched to the relief of the latter town, which was held -by the Bavarian troops. These had artillery, and were also numerically -stronger and better armed, so that the task set before the patriot -force was no slight one. Happily, Speckbacher became aware that the -Bavarians were short of ammunition, and therefore when a truce was -proposed he refused to agree to it. The Bavarians after, as they -thought, completely destroying the Hall bridge, which they held as -well as the town, retreated. Calling upon his men to follow him, -Speckbacher led them boldly on to the then dangerous and tottering -structure, entered the town and pursued the Bavarians. - -[Sidenote: AN INTERESTING CHURCH] - -In the churchyard is an interesting wooden crucifix carved by Joseph -Stocker in 1691, as well as some monuments of the principal Hall -families of former times. The church itself should be visited, if only -for the "Salvator Mundi" by Albrecht Durer painted on a panel, and the -high altar-piece by a pupil of the master Reubens, named Erasmus -Quillinus. One of the chapels, the Waldaufische, was built in 1493 by -Florian von Waldauf, who, originally a peasant boy, entered the -Imperial Army and ultimately became one of the confidential advisers -of the Emperor Frederick and his son, afterwards Maximilian I. He was -also ennobled and given considerable estates. He met with many -adventures on his journeys into foreign lands, and on one of his -expeditions was in so terrible a storm as to be threatened with -shipwreck, and he vowed if his life was spared that he would found a -chapel in his native land. As events turned out, he lived to reach -Tyrol once more, and in accordance with his vow founded the chapel in -the church at Hall, which was also the parish church of Rettenburg -Castle and estates which Maximilian had granted to him. Upon this -chapel he bestowed numerous relics which he had acquired during his -various travels, and nearly 50,000 pilgrims came from all parts of -Tyrol to the consecration service. - -More than one of the chapels and churches of Hall owe their origin to -special circumstances of a more or less romantic character. That of -St. Saviour, for example, which stands on the site of some tumbledown -hovels which existed in the first years of the fifteenth century. The -story goes that it was to a dying man in one of these that one of the -priests attached to the village church was summoned to convey the -Viaticum, and administer extreme unction and the last rites of the -Church. He came in due course to the hovel, and placing the sacred -vessels on a rickety table the latter collapsed and the Host was -thrown on to the floor. This was, of course, a terrible disaster in -the eyes of the priest and peasants; and a rich burgher, Johann von -Kripp by name, hearing of the circumstance, purchased the cottages, -and as a reparation for the sacrilege which had occurred, founded a -church on the spot, dedicated to the Redeemer. - -The Hall records are of great interest, and show that the town was a -place of much importance in the fifteenth century, when a considerable -part of the trade between Venice and Germany passed through it. In -those days, too, the town was somewhat celebrated for its junketings, -more especially the feasts which were held in connection with the -opening of the sessions at the Courts of Justice. - -The neighbourhood, on account of the good sport provided, was a -favourite hunting-ground with the Emperor Maximilian, who on several -occasions was entertained in the town. - -Hall declined slowly in importance during the sixteenth and -seventeenth centuries by reason of the change in the trade routes; but -in quite modern times has regained some at least of its former -prosperity by adopting up-to-date methods. - -There are numerous excellent and interesting excursions to be made -from Hall, but nearly every one pays a visit to the famous salt -mines, which are to the north amid most romantic and beautiful -scenery. Even by carriage the journey of about eight miles takes the -greater part of two hours; on foot even good walkers can scarcely hope -to do it in less than three. The scenery is in places very fine, and -one enjoys most beautiful views, and nearer glimpses of the -Bettelwulf, Speckkar and Nisslspitz Alps. - -[Sidenote: ABSAM AND JAKOB STAINER] - -On the way one passes the quaint village of Absam, at which Jakob -Stainer, known as the "German father of the violin," was born in 1621. -As a maker of these instruments he stands high, though it is unknown -where or how he acquired his knowledge of the craft. It seems -possible, however, as Absam is but a short distance from Innsbruck, -where at the period at which Stainer lived musicians--Italians and -others--were warmly welcomed to the Court of the Archduke Ferdinand -Karl, he may have made the acquaintance of some of these, or even of a -maker of distinction. Be it as it may, ere Stainer reached his -majority he had embarked upon the trade of a violin maker, and was -often to be seen in the streets of Hall and in the market-place -selling his productions at a price which we are told did not often -exceed six florins. - -His original model was probably an Amati, but he departed considerably -from it as he himself acquired skill and knowledge. Stories are still -told of the great care he took in selecting the wood from which his -instruments were to be fashioned, and how he would sometimes spend -days wandering in the backwoods around Hall and Absam in search of a -good tree, which he would tap with a hammer and note its "tone" ere -felling. Unfortunately, as has been the case with many another genius, -he seems to have died in poverty in or about 1683. At one time he was -violin maker to the Imperial Court, but this appointment, which -ultimately he lost through inability to pay his way, and owing to -consequent financial embarrassment, was not sufficiently lucrative to -ensure him comfort in his declining years, let alone prosperity. - -His instruments, of which there are still a number in existence, are -generally distinguished by having their tops more highly curved than -those of the chief Italian makers, whilst they possess a more -flute-like note, which is often more "singing" and sympathetic than -that of the latter. But none of his make probably equalled, or at all -events excelled, the works of the Italian masters for brilliance and -sustained tone, although by some connoisseurs this opinion has been -disputed. It is said that one of Mozart's favourite instruments was -the work of Jakob Stainer. - -At the present time the chief industry of the Mittenwald, which is -just over the Bavarian border, is the production of violins and -guitars, which are exported in considerable numbers to both England -and the United States as well as to other European countries. This -flourishing industry owes its origin to a pupil of Stainer's, named -Klotz, who after his master's death enjoyed a considerable reputation -as a maker of violins of good quality. - -Many of the houses of Absam are gaily painted, and in the numerous -niches, which are often vine-wreathed, one finds the images of saints, -and on the bargeboards roughly carved dragons. The villagers tell a -curious story to account for the presence of these dragons. It tells -how centuries ago there was in the village a marvellous hen that never -laid an egg until seven years old, and when this was hatched instead -of the anticipated chicken there crawled out a dragon, which -remarkable event the villagers have commemorated ever since by carving -dragons on the eaves of their houses. But it has been pointed out by -several writers upon legends and folk-lore that the dragon was an -animal sacred to the god Wodin, representations of which were -frequently placed on houses, over the town gates, and on belfries as a -kind of talisman against evil influences and spirits; and similar -statements are to be found in several well-known works dealing with -mythology. - -[Sidenote: A WONDERFUL WINDOW] - -In connection with this little Tyrol village are several other stories -and legendary tales of a highly romantic and interesting character. -Space, however, can only be found for one other. The story of the -event or circumstance which caused Absam to become a popular -pilgrimage place at the end of the eighteenth century runs as follows. -About the middle of January, in the year 1797, the daughter of one of -the villagers was one evening looking out of a window in her father's -house to watch for his return from work across the fields, when -suddenly the light from the fire which played upon the window-pane -disclosed a figure of the Virgin Mary quite distinctly. The girl was -so astonished that she fell upon her knees before the miraculous -picture. The story was not long in spreading throughout the village, -and the neighbours all came running to see the "miracle." Then the -news of the marvellous image spread through the district round about, -and at last created so great a stir that the Dean of Innsbruck himself -heard of it, and resolved to investigate the story. After he had -visited the place a committee of inquiry was formed, amongst the -members of which were two learned professors of chemistry and the -well-known artist, Joseph Schöpf. - -After considerable investigation and the examination of witnesses the -committee declared that the glass had originally formed part of a -"picture" window, and that the image had been undoubtedly painted upon -it. The colours had, however, faded as the years went by (as -sometimes, indeed, happens), and it was the peculiar character of the -atmosphere of Absam which had restored them to the extent that the -image of the Holy Virgin had become once more visible. - -It is not to be much wondered at, however, that the simple-minded -villagers failed to appreciate the arguments of the commissioners and -refused to accept the explanation. To them it remained a miraculous -image still, and pilgrims came in crowds to see it. As history tells -us, it was a period of "Sturm und Drang" in Tyrol. A plague raged -which afflicted both men and cattle; and the French invaders had -penetrated right into the heart of the country, had occupied -Innsbruck, and had brought fire and sword to the hearths of the -people. The superstitious peasantry, with their natural leaning -towards belief in the miraculous, and faith in the benefits to be -derived from the supernatural, accepted the image which had so -strangely appeared on the window-pane as a token of Divine favour, and -insisted on its removal and installation upon one of the altars in the -church. This was promptly done, and the "Gnadenmutter von Absam," or -"Miraculous Madonna of Absam," became an object of veneration by all -who were distressed. This feeling was doubtless immensely increased by -the circumstance that soon after the discovery of the picture and its -removal to the church the pestilence died down, and the French were -compelled to withdraw their forces. Both of which events were -attributed to the virtue of the painting of the Virgin on the -window-pane which had been discovered in so strange a manner. - -The salt mines a little distance beyond Absam, with their crystalline -grottoes and the subterranean salt lake, provide an interesting and -unique experience for the enterprising traveller who comes to the -Salzberg. There is not much difficulty in obtaining admission to the -mines, a small fee being charged each visitor for guides, torches, and -the rowers of the boat on the lake. The circumstance that the mines -were known and worked in the eighth century is not the least -interesting fact connected with them; but it appears probable that the -early workers confined their attention chiefly if not entirely to the -extracting of the salt from a spring that issued from the mountain, by -means of evaporating pans. - - [Illustration: THE HALL VALLEY, WINTER] - -[Sidenote: DISCOVERY OF SALT MINES] - -One Nikolas von Rohrbach, who is known by the sobriquet of "the -pious knight," appears to have been the first discoverer of the salt -mines. He noticed on his frequent hunting expeditions that the cattle -and horses were very fond of licking certain rocks in the valley, and -applied tests which showed that the rocks were strongly saline in -character. Following up this clue, he discovered the Salzberg itself -with its practically inexhaustible supply. Ever since Rohrbach's time -the mountain has been worked for its salt, and until recent years, -when blasting came into common use, much in the same way as in -mediæval times, viz. by hewing huge caverns in the rock, which are -then filled with water and sealed up. After a considerable period has -elapsed this water is run off into conduits leading down to Hall, -where it is evaporated in pans. How heavily charged with salt the -brine is may be judged from the fact that as a general rule it yields -no less than one-third of its weight in solid salt. - -The caverns one is able to enter, when lighted up by the flickering -torches, present a truly wonderful and beautiful sight. - -Those who visit Hall are indeed unfortunate whose time does not permit -them to put up for a day or two at either of the chief Inns (the "Bar" -or "Stern"), so that the beautiful Gnadenwald, which lies to the -north-east of the town on the Bettelwulf, may be visited. That lovely -Alpine lake, the Achen See, in which the towering snow-capped -mountains glass themselves, can be easily reached by the little -railway which runs up to it through the steeply climbing Zillerthal. -The highest and largest of Tyrolese lakes, the Achen See, lies at an -altitude of 3000 feet, with its deep-blue, crystal-clear waters -stretching northwards for a distance of nearly six miles towards -Bavaria. It is surrounded by the most exquisite mountain scenery, -craggy precipices and dark-green forests, and has many features of -interest in addition to providing excellent fishing, boating, and -numerous pleasant walks and excursions. - -In the Gnadenwald, which was a grant of forest land made by Tyrolese -rulers to their household servants in olden times, there are several -villages of great picturesqueness. The road from Hall is a truly -delightful one through pine forests, sweet with aromatic perfume in -the warm air of summer, and upland fields, which seem to almost hang -on the sides of the grey, craggy peaks of the Bavarian Alps. And if -one but turns and gazes back occasionally there are charming vistas to -be had of the Inn Valley far below, and the great chain of the -southern mountain range on the further side. - -The two picturesquely situated villages of St. Michael and St. Martin -are to be ranked amongst the chief places of interest in the -Gnadenwald. As one approaches the former its white church and tower -with a red-roofed cupola with gilded finial standing out clearly -defined against a background of dark green at once arrests attention. -Over the door is a fresco depicting the incident in the life of Saint -Martin where he bestowed his coat upon a beggar. The visitor whose -time permits or inclination leads him to enter the church will be -amply repaid by the beauty of the frescoes, more especially those -adorning the pulpit, which were painted by one of the priests attached -to the Augustinian monastery formerly connected with the church, but -afterwards suppressed by Joseph II. towards the end of the eighteenth -century. - -At a little distance from the church stands the old home of Joseph -Speckbacher, where once, when pursued by his enemies, he took refuge -in a pit only deep enough for him to sit upright, whilst the Bavarian -soldiers in search of him were actually quartered in the house. He was -only able to leave his place of concealment under the floor when the -soldiers were absent drilling in the market-place. After a time he was -able to come out and hide in a more commodious cow-shed, and finally -to flee (after many narrow escapes) over the border into Austria, -where he was well received and safe from capture. - -The village of St. Michael is also picturesque and well worth seeing. -Just beyond it is the famous Gungl Inn, a favourite resort with -excursionists from Innsbruck, Kufstein, Hall and other places, as well -as with the peasants of the Gnadenwald. Here, on Sundays especially, -one meets with some of the most interesting and picturesque types, gay -costumes and rustic scenes of gaiety and amusements which give one a -far better idea of the Tyrolese peasants as they are than days spent -in towns, and weeks spent reading books. - -[Sidenote: A PILGRIMAGE CHURCH] - -But a short distance further on, by a charming road, one reaches the -famous pilgrimage chapel of Maria Larch, built in honour of a -mysterious image of the Madonna which was discovered under a larch -tree. The church, perhaps on account of its poetic legend and secluded -and beautiful situation, has long been a favourite pilgrimage resort -with the impressionable and religious peasantry of the upper valleys. - -There are many other picturesque places in the neighbourhood of Hall, -enticing the wanderer from valley to valley and height to height; but -a small volume would be required in which to adequately describe them -alone; and almost a lifetime to become thoroughly acquainted with -their romantic legends, story and beauty. Some weeks of exploration -leaves one with a keen desire for closer acquaintance with not merely -the lovely scenery but with the simple-hearted, hospitable people who -dwell in the more secluded valleys, with whom the great outer world -with its storm and stress has indeed little to do and for whom even -has little interest. - -"You should return to Innsbruck from Hall in the late afternoon, -starting just before sunset," was the advice of an artist friend. "You -will then see what you will not easily forget." - -The present writer passes on the advice. - -No one who has waited till day's decline to make the return journey at -any period of the year will have reason to regret it, though in the -winter months the effects of light and shadow are, of course, far more -transient--far too much so--than during the spring, summer, and even -early autumn. Then the snow on the towering peaks of the environing -mountains glows with at first a golden light, which passes through -pearly tones to bright rose pink as the sun sinks behind the soaring -crags. The last gleams of the sun linger upon the highest peak as -though loth to fade through rose to pale purple, and in turn to change -to steely blue, and finally to that blue-black which challenges the -deeper indigo of the Alpine sky. Through the pine woods as one passes -along the mountain road the golden light filters and slowly dies, -throwing long shadows, and at last making the tree trunks loom -enormous and fantastical in the fading light. And then from the tiny -churches of the mountain side and valley one hears the Angelus ringing -forth with a peaceful sound; or if one be approaching Innsbruck -itself, then the mellow tones of the greater bell of Wilten float -upward from the valley and come to one borne on the still evening air. -Under such circumstances of beauty and in the impressive solitude of -the forest ways one must be, indeed, unimpressionable if one fails to -feel something of the spirit and love of Tyrol, and of restful peace -which has enslaved so many hearts throughout the country's history. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[14] By some authorities it is stated that the Emperor was never made -aware of Ferdinand's marriage.--C. H. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - - SALZBURG, ITS HISTORY AND ROMANCE - - -[Sidenote: BEAUTIFUL OLD SALZBURG] - -Salzburg, though lying some little distance beyond the north-eastern -borders of Tyrol, is so historic and delightful a city that many who -visit the "Land of the Mountains" make a point of visiting it. They -are wise to do so; for of all ancient towns in the Austrian empire few -are more picturesque or pleasantly situated, and scarcely any more -historically interesting. We have never known any one disappointed in -Salzburg who was capable of appreciating beauty and romantic -associations. - -Many who have roved the world over have yielded to the charm of this -old-time city, which even with its touch of modernity seems to -preserve the quaint and the beautiful of long ago, and the atmosphere -of the days when knights and armed men were the chief passers through -its streets, and history was in the making. - -It lies at the foot of the northern Alps, in an open and fertile -valley somewhat reminding one of Innsbruck, save for its wonderful -rock fortress Hohen-Salzburg situated nearly eighteen hundred feet -above sea-level and completely dominating the town. There is the -Kapuzingerberg in place of the Innsbruck Weiherberg, and its Rainberg -in place of Berg Isel. It is by many considered the most interesting -of all the ancient towns amid the German Alps. - -Its beauty has been compared in turn by several well-known travellers -with that of Venice, Naples, and even Constantinople. But to our -thinking the parallel is not as exact as it should be to make it of -value. There is no sea at Salzburg, and from that fact alone its -approach is of necessity less picturesque. Indeed, the immediate -approach from Tyrol by way of Innsbruck is somewhat unimpressive and -gives little or no indication of the beauty and charm of the old town, -though the line on its way passes some pretty scenery and affords some -fine peeps of the Bavarian Alps. - -Yet Salzburg, through the centre of which flows the silver-hued -Salzach, is in a way as beautifully situated and as charming as any of -the towns to which it has from time to time been likened. It lies in a -delightfully well-watered and fertile plain dotted over with villages, -ancient castles, and country seats of the Salzburg nobility, and -encircled by wooded hills, which as they open out in a wider sweep to -the south become higher and higher until deserving the description of -mountains. Here they become a magnificent range of towering limestone -peaks, through which are cleft fertile and delightful valleys leading -into the neighbouring kingdom of Bavaria. In the valley of the Salzach -there is no lack of variety as regards scenery. One has widespread -meadows, almost throughout the year starred and gemmed with many -coloured and sweet scented flowers, melting away into the woods which -clothe the lower slopes of the environing hills, where the sombre hued -pines give a darker note of green to the landscape; whilst yet above -these in the distance are crags of grey and slate-coloured limestone, -and crowning the whole vast snow-fields glistering white at noonday -and taking on a tint of delicate rose colour at sundown. - -In the town itself rise two considerable hills which serve to confer -upon it a distinction of its own. One, the Kapuzingerberg, on the -eastern side of the river, rises to the height of 800 feet, and the -second, on the western side, to a height of nearly 450 feet above the -city. It is between these two that the greater part of the old town -lies. The steep sides of the Mönchsberg and the Gibraltar-like rock on -which the old, grey fortress of Hohen-Salzburg stands are ivy-clad, -and in the crevices and fissures wall-flowers, valerian, stone-crop, -houseleek, and other flowering and lichen-like plants have taken root, -whilst from the greater crevices and ledges wave feathery birches, and -the lower slopes are made beautiful and shady by spreading beeches and -odorous limes. - -After several visits to this delightful city, which has an atmosphere -entirely its own, and a charm difficult to describe, one is at a loss -to set down in what it exactly differs from other similar towns. Part -of the attraction it possesses is doubtless owing to its situation -amid a stretch of lovely valley, and its romantic and historic past. -But there yet remains that elusive quality which may be described as -"the personality of the town," in addition to its geographical and -historical claims upon one's interest and imagination. - -Salzburg is not, however, merely the name of a town, but also of a -province or "department" of Austria, to which empire it is the last -added territory.[15] Lying between Tyrol (of which by many it is -erroneously supposed to form a part) and the Salzkammergut or the lake -region of Upper Austria, which commences in the near neighbourhood of -the city, it was an independent episcopal principality until after the -fall of Napoleon, not having been incorporated with the -Austro-Hungarian Empire until the year 1816. - -[Sidenote: THE SALZACH VALLEY] - -The province consists chiefly of the mountainous district of the -Salzach and its numerous tributaries, which wend their way from their -sources amid the glaciers and snow-fields of the great peaks of the -Hohen Tauern and lesser ranges to the plain where the Salzach itself -ultimately flows into the Inn. - -It is the great Hohen Tauern range with its gigantic snow-crowned -peaks of the Gross Glockner, 12,460 feet; Wiesbachhorn, 11,710 feet; -and Gross Venediger, 12,010 feet; Hohe Furlegg, 10,750 feet; -Habachkopf, 9945 feet; and many other almost equally stupendous -heights, which forms the southern boundary of the ancient -Principality. The whole range is one of impressive grandeur, and -possesses a picturesque beauty upon its lower slopes unrivalled by any -other Alpine district. The foot of the Hohen Tauern is almost -invariably clad with pine forests, which melt away into the higher -slopes where blooms the bright pink "alpen rosen," whilst yet higher, -and just below the line of perpetual snow, on rocky ledges and on -slopes of coarse grass appear the silver-white, star-like flowers of -the edelweiss. Above this zone of fresh green patches amid the grey -and weather-stained rocks one passes into that exhilarating region of -eternal snow and ice where dwells also eternal silence unbroken by the -sound of birds, the hum of insects, or murmur of other living things. - -Not only is the Hohen Tauern the region of Alpine giants, vast -glaciers, and untrodden snow-fields, but as a natural consequence of -these things it is that of many rushing torrents, stupendous -waterfalls, and tinkling streamlets, all of which contribute to make -the province it borders one of the best-watered in the -Austro-Hungarian Empire. Upwards of half a score of large streams flow -into the Salzach; whilst of fertile valleys there are so many that to -number them is difficult. Most are beautiful in the extreme; many are -almost unknown to the ordinary tourist, who usually sticks to the -well-worn paths and more frequented highways. In the famous Krimml -Falls the Province of Salzburg possesses by common consent the finest -waterfalls in the German Alps. They issue from the vast Krimml Glacier -and descend over the edge of a pine-clad precipice in a cloud of -drifting spray into the valley beneath, a distance of nearly 1500 -feet, in three stupendous leaps, the highest fall in two leaps from a -height of more than 450 feet. - -Although, as we have before said, almost every valley of the Hohen -Tauern range is notably beautiful, none excel in interest either -pictorially or geologically the longest and widest, the Gastein -Valley, with the fine falls some 500 feet in height near Bockstein, -where the Gasteiner Ache, after passing through narrow gorges, plunges -down into the valley, and thence flows through the broad, flat plain -of Hof-Gastein to join the Salzach, passing on its way delightful -Bad-Gastein, with its old town of interesting and picturesque wooden -houses nestling on the eastern slopes of the valley, and the newer, -with its hotels, churches, villas and other handsome buildings, -peeping out from amid the pine-clad slopes or lying in the valley -itself. It is a delightful though nowadays fashionable health resort, -at which many tastes, both gay and quiet, are consulted. - -From Lend at the foot of the Gastein Thal to pretty little St. Johann, -where the Salzach flows northward, the river has passed without -opposition quietly onward. But at St. Johann are some towering and -remarkable limestone peaks, including those of the Tennen and Hagen -Ranges, some of them attaining an altitude of 8000 feet; with the -desolate-looking Steinerne Meer, 8800 feet on the western flank, and -the Dachstein more than a thousand feet higher on the eastern. The -river flows onward to a point where the two ranges we have mentioned -coalesce. Here the great ravine known as the Lueg Pass, six miles in -length and possessing fine scenery, forms a very fitting entrance to -the beautiful valley of Golling, which gradually opens out from -Hallein onwards till Salzburg itself is reached. - -The valley of the Salzach on its eastern side is bordered by a range -of pleasant green-clad heights and gentle slopes, with the Gaisberg, -4290 feet, a short distance to the north-east of Salzburg itself, -dominating them, from which point the mountains gradually decrease in -height. From Golling onwards, however, the western side of the valley -is shut in by great peaks, some of which spread out their lower and -rounded emerald green slopes towards the river. Of these impressive -and beautiful mountains the Hohe Göll, 8275 feet, the majestic -Watzmann, 9050 feet, the chief of the Berchtesgaden group, are the -most noticeable. The cave-pierced and lofty, dome-shaped Untersberg, -the highest point of which is the Berchtesgadener Hochtron of 6480 -feet, standing isolated like a sentinel in the plain near the city. - -[Sidenote: SALZBURG IN ROMAN TIMES] - -Salzburg, beautiful and on occasion even radiant city of the plain as -it is, ancient though many of its buildings are, is yet of greater -antiquity than any of them. The town stands upon truly classic ground, -and is associated with many events which have taken their places in -European and even world-wide history. Here the Romans came in their -all-conquering march of empire, and recognizing its fine position and -the strategic importance of the hills which command the river along -most of its course, they in due time built upon the plain Juvavum, on -the road which linked up the Augusta Vindelicorum, modern Augsburg -with Aquileia near Trieste. - -There is little doubt nowadays, from the remains which have been -discovered from time to time in the shape of implements of stone and -bronze, weapons, household utensils, and ornaments, that the mines -near Salzburg, which have since very early days down till -comparatively recent times been of great commercial importance, were -not only worked in the days of the Roman occupation, but also even in -pre-historic times. There is little reason for doubt, indeed, that the -Celts knew of, and used, the famous salt mines of the Dürnberg and the -copper mines of the Mitterberg; whilst there is abundant evidence of -various kinds of the working of the gold and silver mines of the -Tauern district by the Romans during their occupation of the country. - - [Illustration: MOZART'S HOUSE IN THE MAKART PLATZ] - -The exact date when Salzburg as a town or settlement first came -into existence has not been determined; but it would seem probable -that there was a settlement existing by the banks of the Salzach -during, or just prior to, the first century of the Christian Era. The -Celtic inhabitants of this settlement were not, however, able -successfully to resist the north-eastern advance which had been made -across Tyrol by the Roman legions, and thus it was that the Roman -military station Juvavum was founded on a site which was of great -convenience owing to its being at the entrance to the mountain passes -and placed at the junction of the roads which led by various routes to -all parts of Noricum. Here it was the Roman invader, having driven the -Celtic owners of the soil after a brave but ineffectual resistance -into mountain fastnesses of the surrounding country, established a -military post with a fort which soon became a colony, and grew -ultimately into the important town of Juvavum. - -Of this occupation by the Romans, and of the establishment of the town -by the banks of the Salzach, there are considerable relics surviving -in the shape of excavated buildings and foundations, coins, ornaments, -pottery, tesselated pavements, and portions of the roads which the -Romans made. - -The introduction of Christianity took place at a very early date, -which would in part account for the ecclesiastical prominence which -the province had in the Middle Ages, and even in later times. We are -told that even as early as the year A.D. 472 St. Severinus, whilst -journeying through Noricum, with which country Salzburg had been -incorporated by the Romans, found numerous Christian churches and -minsters established. A relic of these times still exists set in the -perpendicular walls of the Mönchsberg, where high up, with some of its -windows overshadowed by creepers and trees, is a very small church -built into the mountain itself; reached by a dark, steep flight of -steps cut in the rock, worn by the feet of countless generations, and -leading to a cavern where stands an altar and a small cross. -According, at least, to tradition this was the hiding-place to which -the early Christians amongst the Roman inhabitants retired for -security when celebrating the offices of the new faith. And it is here -that St. Maximus is said to have suffered martyrdom. - -From the effects of the troublous days which at last came to most -outposts of Roman civilization Salzburg did not escape. Soon the -hordes of Huns and Goths and others belonging to various Germanic -tribes swept across and over the province as they did the land of -Tyrol, and the town was sacked and burned, and the inhabitants put to -the sword or led away into captivity. Thus in 477 the flourishing -Roman settlement was literally wiped out by the Keruli under their -leader, Odoaker, and of it few traces remained save some tesselated -pavements, household utensils, and ornaments which ages afterwards -from time to time have been uncovered. - -[Sidenote: THE RISE OF SALZBURG] - -The history of the town is obscure for many centuries after its -destruction by the Teutonic barbarians; and for more than a hundred -years the place remained waste and deserted, with the ruined buildings -gradually becoming overgrown by trees and shrubs. Then, at the -beginning of the sixth century, Theodo I., Duke of the Bojovarii, the -founder of the Kingdom afterwards known as Bavaria, took possession of -Salzburg and joined it to his own possessions. One account tells us -that it was this Duke Theodo of Bavaria who, having become a -Christian, summoned St. Rupert, after the latter had been driven from -Worms, to Ratisbon with a view to his introducing Christianity into -the Duchy. Tradition states that St. Rupert came to Juvavum about the -year 582, or at the beginning of the seventh century, with the -determination to make the spot his headquarters for the spread of the -Christian faith. Duke Theodo appears to have made him a present of the -ruined and deserted town and the country round about to the extent of -an area of two miles square. Other estates and property were given -him, including among many others those of Itzling, Oping (Upper -Innsbruck), and a third part of the famous Hall Salt Spring. The -Bishop set to work, and on the ruins of the old Roman settlement he -soon established a town, building a convent and a church under the -steep rocks of the Mönchsberg, where now the large Benedictine Convent -and St. Peter's Church stand, in the latter of which the bones of the -saint are said to lie buried. - -The Convent of Nonnberg had many estates granted to it, and became -rich. Bishop Rupert appears to have also begun to build new dwellings -and to have cultivated the land; not neglecting in the meantime the -object for which he had come, viz. the spread of Christianity. He -built many churches, and was the means of forming a large number of -Christian communities throughout the Duchy. He also extended the -influence of the town of Salzburg over the surrounding district, and -when he died in 623 he left behind him, where he had found ruins, a -flourishing town with religious institutions of considerable -importance. It was from this settlement that the most powerful and -wealthiest ecclesiastical principality in Southern Germany was -destined to spring, which, though possessed in turn by various -nations, lasted as a spiritual Principality until 1802, when it was -secularized and re-established as a temporal electorate. - -After the coming of St. Rupert Salzburg gradually grew to be the chief -centre of religious life and culture in the eastern region of the -Alps. By the foundation of the Archbishopric of Bavaria by Charles the -Great in 788, after the latter territory had been annexed and -incorporated with his possessions, the city's importance steadily -increased. But with an increase of status there came a corresponding -extension and consolidation of the ecclesiastical dominion by which -the political influence of the Archbishops of Salzburg grew until it -finally justified them in assuming the title of Primates of Germany. -Almost without exception during the Middle Ages the archbishops were -militant priests. "They knew," we are told, "as well how to handle a -sword as to say a Mass," and they often fought with distinction -against the many enemies that the German Empire had in those troublous -times when the various kingdoms of Eastern Europe were being evolved -out of chaos, and were ever at war one with another. These prelates -were also distinguished as skilled and astute diplomatists, capable of -holding their own and adding to the power and privileges of their -Church whenever an opportunity for so doing presented itself. - -Under Bishop Virgil (747 to 784) the power of Salzburg was -considerably extended eastward. The new Cathedral was built, and -several other districts were brought under the subjection of the -bishopric. It was Bishop Virgil's successor, Arno (785 to 821), a -personal friend of Charlemagne, who, in the last year of the eighth -century, was invested by Pope Leo III. with the Pallium and installed -first Archbishop of Salzburg. - -To Arno's labours the town and the country owe much, for under his -skilful and wise guidance not only did the former flourish and grow, -with the other settlements which had come into existence, but by his -great power of initiative the life of the principality itself was -directed into prosperous and progressive channels. His immediate -successors greatly increased the power and influence of the Church; -whilst at the same time they did not omit to extend their -non-spiritual power by the acquisition of other territory, and by -means of the mining industries they became very rich and powerful. - -[Sidenote: EARLY RULERS] - -The Archbishops of Salzburg soon by this means gained a great and -distinguished place amongst the German princes, which they retained -until the power of the Emperors began to wane in consequence of -differences with the Popes, to the latter of whom the Archbishops, as -a rule, gave their support in the disputes that arose. Into these -matters it is not necessary to enter deeply, but it was in consequence -of them that Conrad I., Count of Abinberg, took the part of the Pope -and caused the country to be greatly disturbed. During his reign the -Abbey of St. Peter was granted as a residence to the Archbishop of -Salzburg, and a new building was soon afterwards erected close by for -the purpose. It was in the reign of this same Conrad I. that the -Cathedral of Salzburg was destroyed by fire on May 4, 828, as was also -a very large portion of the city. Both the Cathedral and the portion -of the town which had been burnt down were rebuilt with even greater -magnificence than before. But they were destined to once more be -destroyed. Three centuries later, in the year 1167, a quarrel arose -between Conrad II. and Frederick Barbarossa, because the latter -refused to invest the former with the temporal power, and pronounced -against him the ban of the Empire. Barbarossa ordered Salzburg and the -country round about to be over-run and laid waste by the Counts -Plain-Mittersill. For some time the city and its strong fortress -resisted successfully; but on April 5, 1167, it was captured and once -more burnt to the ground. - -The successor of Conrad, Albert III., a son of King Ladislav of -Bohemia, also came into conflict with the Emperor, and shared a -similar fate to his predecessors; but during the reigns of the -immediately succeeding archbishops peace and prosperity were -established, and under Eberhard II., who was distinguished as a most -able and brilliant administrator as well as a great churchman, peace -and tranquillity once more reigned. - -During the next century Salzburg was involved in political disputes -and took part in the Battle of Muhldorf, on September 28, 1322, -fighting on the side of Frederick the Schöne, Duke of Austria, who was -taken prisoner. In consequence of which the principality not only -lost large numbers of its chief nobles and knights, but also was -involved in heavy monetary loss in the payment of its share of a war -indemnity. - -Immediately following this period of unrest came another distinguished -by the erection of new and handsome buildings and the enlargement of -the bounds of the city, and also strengthening of the Castle on the -Mönchsberg. To Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach (1495 to 1519) must -be given the credit of attaining absolute supremacy, and with his -occupation of the See may be said to have commenced the most -distinguished period in the history of the city. Leonhard did not -attain to this position, however, entirely without guile, for to tell -the truth the Salzburg citizens, who seemed even in those mediæval -times to have possessed a love of freedom and spirit of independence -which did them credit, having become restive under the ecclesiastical -domination and tyranny wished to make the town a free imperial city. -Leonhard, however, had determined otherwise, and so under pretence of -inviting the burgomaster and twenty town councillors to his palace to -give them a state banquet, he promptly arrested them on their arrival -and threw them into the castle dungeons. He then succeeded in taking -away the ancient rights of the town, upon the annulment of which he -had set his mind. But although Archbishop Leonhard ruled his secular -as well as his ecclesiastical subjects with a rod of iron, he did much -to improve and beautify the city, adding greatly to the strength and -size of Hohen-Salzburg, and also improving the method of working the -mines, particularly those in Gastein and Rauris. This was, of course, -more directly to his benefit than that of the miners, yet in the end -was pleasing to the country in general in that the Archbishop drew -from the mines a revenue sufficient to permit him to erect many -handsome buildings, to improve the roads, and to encourage art and -agriculture. - -[Sidenote: THE REFORMATION] - -During the Archiepiscopate of his successor Mathäus Lang von -Wellenburg, from 1519 to 1540, many stirring events took place, not -only in the city of Salzburg but throughout the length and breadth of -the principality as well. The faith of Luther had been introduced into -Salzburg and had met with great success among all classes of the -population, especially that of the miners. Even some of the priests -and officials of the Cathedral itself were suspected of being -favourable to, and even of extending, the new doctrines. At first the -Archbishop tried to combat the heretical tendencies of his subjects by -kindness and indulgence; but finding these methods fruitless, he -called in the aid of foreign mercenaries, chiefly from Tyrol, -garrisoned Hohen-Salzburg strongly with them and with followers upon -whose loyalty he could depend, and taking the town unawares, forced -the inhabitants to submit and to surrender their privileges. - -This event was followed by various acts of violence directed against -the adherents of the reformed faith, which so exasperated the -population that in May, 1525, a rebellion broke out in all parts of -the principality. The Archbishop seeing that the situation was taking -a serious turn, addressed an urgent appeal for help to Duke William at -Munich, which, however, was not answered. Shortly after, thousands of -miners and peasants, having won several skirmishes in the country -districts, advanced to Salzburg, where they were joined by many of the -inhabitants, and promptly set to work to besiege the Archbishop in the -fortress, which they continued to do (failing to gain an entrance) -until August 15th, when Ludwig of Bavaria arrived with a strong force, -and a truce favourable to the peasants was agreed upon. This -arrangement, however, was not held to, and in consequence a fierce -rebellion broke out again in the following year, but was successfully -and cruelly suppressed by forces under the command of the Archduke -Ferdinand, supplemented by those of the Suabian League. - -Although the doctrines of Luther continued to make headway, and -religious disturbances still occurred, the latter were not of a -serious character; but some half a century later the famous Archbishop -Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, also known for brevity as Wolf Dietrich, -on returning from Rome, where he had been to receive the pallium, or -ornamental band of white wool worn around the shoulders, which all -archbishops at that time had to receive on their appointment before -they were empowered to carry out the duties of their office, issued -his famous edict on July 9, 1588, for the extermination of the -heretics. In consequence of which there was a severe persecution of -those who had adopted the Lutheran faith, with great confiscations of -their lands and other property. Other acts of this famous Archbishop, -including an imposition on salt, the obtaining and making of which -formed a very important and remunerative industry, brought about -serious friction between him and some of his subjects, and ultimately -led on two occasions to his military occupation of the salt district -by means of mercenaries. On the first these forces were defeated and -driven out by those of Duke William of Bavaria; and on the second the -Archbishop's action led to the conquest and occupation of Salzburg by -the Duke Maximilian himself, and the ultimate imprisonment and -dethroning of Wolf Dietrich on March 7, 1612. He was never released, -although efforts were made to obtain freedom and pardon for him, and -died in his cell in Hohen-Salzburg five years later. - -[Sidenote: CATHOLIC PERSECUTIONS] - -After the Peace of Westphalia, October 24th, Salzburg was made an -independent and sovereign principality, and the archbishops, the -Chapter, and various other authorities, set to work to bring about -improvements in the Civil and Ecclesiastical offices and organizations -of the country, and to improve the condition of the inhabitants by -better regulations of taxes, the criminal law, etc., and to complete -the building of the city and improvement of the existing portions of -it by the repaving of the streets and instituting better sanitary -arrangements. But notwithstanding the undoubted benefits conferred in -the way we have mentioned upon the inhabitants, the clerical party -maintained a rigorous persecution of the Protestants, and in -consequence the years 1684-85 witnessed large emigrations of -Lutherans, including great numbers of the Hallein miners. - -These persecutions were followed half a century later by those of the -Archbishop Leopold Anton Freiherr von Fermian, who summoned the -Jesuits into the country to aid in extirpating the Protestants. These -priests succeeded in stirring up further dissensions between the -Catholics and the Lutherans, and cruel persecutions, accompanied by -torture and imprisonment, followed. The Archbishop, finding the -Jesuits had not succeeded in reducing the country to uniformity of -religion or a more peaceful state, issued on the last day of October, -1731, the famous emigration edict by which the Protestants were to be -deprived of all their property and their rights as citizens, and to be -driven from the principality. The result was the forming of the -celebrated Salzbund, by which the followers of the reformed faith -banded themselves together and swore to defend it, and as a token they -licked a block of salt placed for the purpose on a table, which is -still preserved at Schwarzach, where the League was formed. - -In the end, in consequence of Archbishop Fermian's edict, upwards of -30,000 people emigrated, and as was the case with the Huguenots of -France they formed by far the most able, industrious, and intelligent -portion of the community, and the consequences of their emigration are -even felt at the present time. By the expulsion of the Protestants, -many of whom were miners, we are told "the mining industry of Salzburg -received its death blow, the prosperity of the country was greatly -diminished, and the free national and civic life was destroyed." The -greater number of these emigrants eventually settled in Prussian -Lithuania, where they were warmly and hospitably received. Others went -to Bavaria, and Suabia, and a few even to England, some of the latter -of whom ultimately crossed the Atlantic and settled in Georgia, where -in the town of Ebenezer there still exists a colony of their -descendants. - -The immediate effect of the emigration of these skilled artisans and -workers was felt both in the city of Salzburg and the principality. -Workshops, which had hitherto been busy hives of industry, deserted by -their former occupants, failed to find new tenants, and fell into -gradual decay, or were turned to other less remunerative uses. As had -been the case with the Huguenots so was it with the _émigrés_ of -Salzburg; their places could not be filled nor their loss replaced. - -Salzburg during the wars of Frederick the Great against Bavaria and -France was frequently occupied by one or other of the contending -nations, and was reduced to a state of poverty and distress from which -it was a long time recovering. To such a wretched condition were the -inhabitants of the city and principality reduced that there was -serious danger at one time of the latter being secularized. But under -the firmer and more beneficent rule of Hieronymus, Count of -Coloredo-Wallsee, the last reigning Archbishop (1772 to 1803), several -beneficial reforms were brought about in the administration of the -country relating to its finances, police, agriculture, and other -departments. But, notwithstanding these changes, ecclesiastical -domination in Salzburg was destined to come to an end speedily, and at -the Peace of Campo Formio, October 17, 1797, France by a secret treaty -agreed to have the Archbishopric of Salzburg transferred to the -Emperor Francis II. - -[Sidenote: NAPOLEONIC WARS] - -In the years 1800 to 1802 the principality was once more the scene of -French invasions, and suffered severely not only from the ravages -consequent upon the battles fought between the French and the -Imperialists, but also from the heavy contributions of money and -stores levied upon the people. The whole country soon became in a -chaotic condition, and the Archbishop at last fled with his portable -property and the most valuable treasures, leaving his See to its fate. -The Imperial forces entered Salzburg under the command of Count -Meerveldt on August 19, 1802, the General proclaiming that he took -possession of the country in the name of the Archduke Ferdinand of -Tuscany. - -Thus Salzburg ceased to be an independent spiritual principality and -became the secular electorate, which it has remained ever since. - -On March 11th of the following year the fugitive archbishop resigned -the secular power. Although there is no doubt that this change was -welcomed by the people at large, who looked forward to reforms and -greater stability of government, it was not found possible to effect -the former at once. The still unsettled and warlike period in which -Ferdinand I. came to rule over Salzburg was very detrimental to any -radical reform or change of administration. By the Peace of Pressberg, -December 26, 1805, Salzburg was transferred to Austria, and four years -later passed into the possession of Bavaria by the Treaty of Vienna, -and so remained until 1816. - -It was during the Napoleonic Wars that the Salzburgers, like the -Tyrolese under Andreas Hofer, rose and fought for their country and -for the Emperor of Austria. Quite a number of serious engagements took -place, in the Lueg Pass, and the Mendling, and near Unken and Melleck, -leading naturally enough to great poverty and devastation. Ultimately -by the Treaty of April 14, 1816, Salzburg passed into the possession -of Austria, and on May 1, 1816, the Imperial Commissioners entered -into possession amidst the enthusiastic rejoicing of the whole -population. - -This state of affairs lasted till 1850, when once more Salzburg became -an independent Austrian Crown land, and eleven years later it was -granted a separate government and a Diet. Since then the city as well -as the province has prospered under the wise and enterprising rule of -its present administration, and has become thoroughly incorporated in -spirit as well as upon paper with the great Empire of which it forms -an independent part. - -To its Archbishops of the sixteenth century Salzburg owed and still -owes much. They were nearly all of them great and interesting -personalities who not only influenced the civil as well as the -religious life and evolution of the town, but had, in addition, not a -little to do with the appearance it gradually assumed during the -period we have mentioned. Under their rule Salzburg was to a large -extent modernized. Many thirteenth- and fourteenth-century buildings -were pulled down, to be replaced by much more magnificent if not more -picturesque and interesting structures. It was then that the spirit of -the Renaissance swept over the Alps from Italy, and in its train came -the desire for magnificence in architecture, in entertainments, and in -the dress and life of the Salzburg nobility. - -The Archbishops and ecclesiastical inhabitants also fell willing -victims to the desire for extravagance and ostentatious display. -Indeed, the former were, as one authority says, "the true Renaissance -Sovereigns of the Italian school, who were selfish as regards their -politics, and not at all particular regarding the means by which they -attained their ends." It must, however, be allowed that though by no -means unwilling for worldly enjoyments and pageantry, notwithstanding -the fact that they professed in their religion the severer doctrines -of Ignatius Loyola, they were worthy patrons and encouragers of art, -science, and literature, and were animated by the desire to leave a -lasting memorial of themselves and their beliefs in splendid -ecclesiastical buildings. In Salzburg one finds their records on all -hands, in coats-of-arms and tablets on which are recorded their -names and deeds, for the benefit and instruction of those who -succeeded them. - - [Illustration: ONE OF THE FINEST DOORS OF THE STATE APARTMENTS IN THE - FORTRESS, SALZBURG] - -[Sidenote: REBUILDING THE CITY] - -During the period of which we speak the character and appearance of -the city was almost entirely changed. The ancient mediæval buildings -were pulled down, and replaced by magnificent palaces in which the -nobility and ecclesiastical dignitaries dwelt in splendour and ease. -Churches were erected in such numbers as to be almost unequalled in -any other city of similar size. Most of these still remain, making -Salzburg a place of spires and domes and handsome churches strangely -picturesque and deeply interesting. - -Seen either from the ridge of the Mönchsberg, the Kapuzingerberg, or -from the castle walls, especially at sundown on a summer's evening, -Salzburg presents a picture of great beauty and colour, and one which -is not easily forgotten. - -As was not unnatural with the secularization of the power ruling the -Province the capital suffered heavily. For a time both its prosperity -and its intellectual life underwent eclipse. For almost half a century -its energies seemed to lie dormant, and it was only when the line -connecting Munich with Vienna by way of Salzburg was constructed in -1860 that it woke once more to take an important place amongst the -towns of north-western Austria. From that period till to-day the place -has made steady progress. - -Till the middle of the last century the city occupied a comparatively -restricted area within the old walls. And as a direct consequence of -the numerous churches, convents, and other ecclesiastical buildings -occupying a great deal of the space available the townsfolk were -compelled to crowd their dwellings together, and to build the many -storied houses which one finds in the older portion of the town in the -neighbourhood of the Herrngasse, Sigmund-Haffnergasse, and -Getreidegasse. It is in these narrow and gloomy--though undoubtedly -picturesque--streets, in the architecture of which one can in many -instances trace Italian influence, that the great part of the -population dwelt, and much of the trade of the town was done. - -With more modern ideas the distaste for such confinement among the -more ambitious and well-to-do of the commercial and artisan classes -became manifest, and when at length the old walls were in places -pulled down a new suburb arose on the other side of the river--as it -did at Innsbruck--in the neighbourhood of the railway station, -possessing wide modern streets, finer shops, and palatial villa -residences, and also smaller houses for the occupation of the -working-class community. - -In this portion of the town one finds not only some of the best -hotels, but the Kurhaus with its pleasant gardens (closely adjoining -the Mirabell Garden), the fine Theatre, and the imposing church of St. -Andreas in the Gothic style. Opposite the railway station, set in a -recess of foliage in the garden adjoining the Hôtel de l'Europe, is -the famous statue of the Kaiserin Elizabeth, a pilgrimage shrine for -most visitors to the town. The statue itself has been described as -"simple but beautiful." To us it has always seemed by no means an -adequate or even very skilful representation of a beautiful and -queenly personality. The pose is not particularly happy, and the whole -has to our mind a "doll-like" effect. - - [Illustration: A QUIET PASTURE] - -As time went by Salzburg reclaimed much ground from the rocky bed of -the swiftly flowing river by confining the stream within more -restricted limits. In former times, when the town was enclosed with -walls, there was no such necessity, and the Salzach took its own -course, encroaching much upon the lower-lying land along its banks. -But nowadays on this reclaimed ground shady avenues of trees have been -planted, which give a charming and distinctive character to this part -of the city. Here, too, are some fine villas, where not so very many -years ago was waste or wooded land, set amid trees and made -pleasant by beautiful gardens, in which there seems to bloom a -profusion of flowers all the year round. - -The position and future prosperity of the town as a tourist resort was -assured when Salzburg became the starting-point of a second main line -of railway leading to Innsbruck via Kitzbühel, and the picturesque -Unter-Inn Thal, and the centre of a number of branch lines. - -It is through these modern developments that the life of Salzburg has -so materially changed even within the memory of those who first -visited it but, comparatively speaking, a few years ago. From a town -of ecclesiastical and almost mediæval aloofness from the outside -world, and from one which had for a considerable period seen its -growth arrested and its life stagnant, it has sprung into being as a -favourite summer and winter resort not merely for tourists, but also -for those to whom the older portion of the town, its many historic -buildings, castle, and fine churches, proves attractive. - -[Sidenote: SALZBURG'S ANCIENT FORTRESS] - -The most prominent of all buildings in Salzburg, and the one which has -for most visitors the greatest attraction, is the fine old fortress of -Hohen-Salzburg set high above the older town upon a tree-enshrouded -and rocky spur of the Mönchsberg. - -The ancient fortress, which has witnessed so many stirring events -within its walls, and from which past generations of inhabitants have -looked down upon almost equally dramatic and stirring doings in the -town below, that throughout the ages defied capture, and at last came -to be looked upon as impregnable, was founded nearly eight and a half -centuries ago by Archbishop Gebhard. - -As the centuries went by many additions were made to the original -buildings, and the present castle dates in its chief portions from the -last few years of the fifteenth and the first few years of the -sixteenth centuries. These additions were principally the work of -Leonard von Keutschach, Archbishop of Salzburg at the close of the -Middle Ages. He was one of the great "building" archbishops to whose -energies and enterprise the town at various periods owed so much. Of -peasant origin he was not ashamed of his humble birth, and, being -gifted with a sense of humour, chose a turnip as his armorial -bearings. So frequently, indeed, are representations of this vegetable -met with on escutcheons in various parts of the town, that the remark -of one traveller who observed that "the Salzburgers appear to have -sprung out of the earth" may be held excused. - -Severe looking as is the fine old fortress (now given over to the uses -of barracks), in whose courtyards princes, archbishops, nobles, and -many famous men of the past centuries have walked, it was, however, -not merely a strong bulwark of defence, truly "ein feste burg" -dominating the town and plain, but also a palace. Although the castle -has been stripped of much of its magnificence there happily still -remain traces of it in the so-called Fürstenzimmer (state apartments), -which formerly occupied by the rulers of the Province were furnished -and decorated with all the splendour which marked the most lavish -period of Renaissance influence. Chief amongst the relics of the -latter are the beautiful and delicately carved panelling, the gilt -work, and the richly carved and moulded ceilings of the principal -apartments. In wandering through these now almost deserted rooms one -is tempted to conjure up the scenes of magnificence they must have -witnessed. Tragedy, comedy, chivalry, hate, joy, sorrow, success, and -failure, all, the often lurid though magnificent gamut of life in the -Middle Ages, must have been welded into the very fabric and atmosphere -of this impressive and deeply interesting building. Among the chief -relics of bygone splendour and pomp of circumstance there remains the -beautiful and it is said unique Majolica stove, a truly wonderful -example of Gothic ceramic art. - -There are many interesting and quaint corners within the triple line -of walls, which shut off access to the castle and proved so useful on -many an occasion in former times, united with the fortifications of -the Mönchsberg known as the _Burgerwehr_; but few excel in -picturesqueness the old courtyard with its shady and famous Linden -tree, ancient well, and time-worn walls. Here, as one lingers, towards -sundown one sometimes hears the sweet-toned though halting notes of -the organ within the tower playing some familiar hymn tune. The -trembling notes, like those of an old singer whose voice has become -feeble but has retained much of its sweetness, float out upon the -still evening air with a mystic appeal which few that have heard them -can, we think, have failed to have felt. For ourselves it is one of -the lasting and unforgettable memories of Salzburg as well as of its -castle. - -Nowadays the cable railway takes one to the summit in a few minutes, -and one is spared the fatigue of the long climb up by the Nonnberg. -The old Reckturm, in the dungeons of which unlucky prisoners were -confined, and in the tower itself the terrible instruments of torture -were kept and the torture chamber was situated, nowadays has a much -more pleasant office to fulfil as an excellent "look out" place from -which to view the widely extended prospect of the town and Salzach -valley towards the north. - -[Sidenote: HOHEN-SALZBURG'S SIEGES] - -Many an assault was made during the Middle Ages and succeeding eras -upon the old grey fortress, seldom resulting in anything save disaster -or disappointment for the attacking force. Even the peasants, who, -during the terrible rebellion of 1525, made repeated attacks upon the -castle with the utmost fury and determination, failed to accomplish -their object of capturing the stronghold, Matthew Land, the then -Archbishop, and the high ecclesiastics who had taken refuge within its -unscalable walls, to whom short shrift would have been given by the -peasant leaders. For ages the Church had trodden the peasantry under -foot, and in the Peasants' Rebellion there were terrible reprisals. -But although the insurgents came near capturing Hohen-Salzburg they -did not succeed. Their appliances were too primitive for successful -assault, and their shots did little or no damage to the strong thick -walls or buildings. On a marble column in the castle are to be seen -the marks left by a cannon ball, which was one of the few that -succeeded in entering the castle, and in this case it was through a -window! A century later, during the Thirty Years' War of 1618-1648 -which devastated the whole of the then German Empire, waged between -the Evangelic Union under the Elector Palatine and the Catholics led -by Maximilian the Great Duke of Bavaria, Salzburg, doubtless on -account of the fact that its fortress was esteemed impregnable, was -one of the few places left at peace and unmolested. We have already -mentioned the fact that the Archbishops were not only exceedingly -powerful ecclesiastics but also great diplomatists, and there is -little doubt but that to their clever policy must also be attributed -the town's immunity from attack during that troublous and universally -disturbed period. - -Of the many distinguished ecclesiastics who have occupied the See of -Salzburg as its Archbishops, the most interesting and perhaps the most -important were two, separated one from the other by but a few years. -One was Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau (1587-1611?) and the other Paris -von Lodron. - -[Sidenote: BUILDERS OF RENOWN] - -Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, from having received his -education in Rome, then the centre of Art and culture, came to -Salzburg steeped not alone in the traditions of Italian Art but -anxious to impress upon the town his knowledge and taste. He found an -old Roman and neither handsome nor picturesque Cathedral, dating from -the eighth century, in place of churches such as he had been -accustomed to in Italy, ornate and beautiful. He is reputed to have -been at no pains to conceal his distaste for the building, and when a -few years before his death it was destroyed during one of the -destructive fires, there were those who even accused the Archbishop of -having himself set the church on fire, or at least of having -instigated others to do so. But there is little truth in this story, -though the Archbishop's satisfaction at the destruction of the -ancient, inconvenient, and unornamental structure seems beyond -question. That he fully intended to erect upon the site one of the -finest churches north of the Italian frontier there is little doubt, -but, alas! for human aims, he was not destined even to see the -foundations laid. - -To him, notwithstanding his despotic character, his restless -disposition, his shameful intrigue with the beautiful Salome Alt, the -city of Salzburg owes a great deal, for he did much to transform an -unpicturesque and dirty town with narrow mediæval streets into one of -the finest cities of Germany. Many of the beautiful buildings, -including the Gabriel Chapel, the Chapter House, the Neubau, and the -arcades of the Sebastian Cemetery, owed their existence to his -artistic taste and desire for improvement. - -It was to Paris von Lodron, the founder of the University which was -dissolved in 1810 during the Bavarian occupation, his second -successor, fell the task as well as the honour of giving to Salzburg a -Cathedral worthy of it and of its long line of famous Archbishops and -many historical memories. The original plan, which historians tell us -would have resulted in a church of such magnificence that it would -have been almost unrivalled by that of any in Europe, had to be -considerably modified for several reasons, chief amongst which were -considerations of cost and space. The former was rendered obligatory -from the heavy expense entailed in keeping up the fortifications of -the city during the time (the Thirty Years' War) the Cathedral was in -course of construction. However, notwithstanding these circumstances, -Paris von Lodron's work, which occupies a splendid position in the -midst of three large squares, was designed chiefly by an Italian -architect named Santino Solari (possibly from plans by Scamozzi of -Florence), assisted by others in the late Renaissance style, is one of -the most magnificent churches in Austria, although the stucco -ornamentation is of a rather florid character. From the exterior, -which is rather plain and severe, although it possesses a fine façade -built of Unterberg marble, it is impossible to gain any conception of -the charm and even splendour of the building. But immediately upon -entering it, one is impressed with its beautiful proportions, and the -resemblance to a marked degree in the general plan to that of St. -Peter's, Rome. Indeed, there is little doubt as to the source from -which Solari drew much of his inspiration, although due credit must be -given to him for original details, the proportions, and general beauty -of effect. - -The treasury of the church is worth seeing, as it is rich in relics of -bygone ages, including an exquisite seventeenth-century monstrance -encrusted with 1800 precious stones, rich vestments, and a fine -crozier set with gems; and none should miss the interesting -fourteenth-century bronze Romanesque font which stands in one of the -side chapels to the left of the entrance. - -In its Cathedral Salzburg possesses a gem of architectural beauty -which has been the admiration of generations of architects and -students, and (as one authority says) "has probably provided more -inspiration for the artist and the student of architecture than any -other church north of the Italian Alps." - -On the Residenz-Platz, the centre of which is adorned by a beautiful -fountain nearly fifty feet in height dating from the latter part of -the seventeenth century, consisting of a colossal figure of Atlas -surrounded by equally colossal hippopotami, the work of Anton Dario, -is situated the ancient palace of the Archbishops, formerly known as -the Residenz, now the Imperial Residence. This fine palace which was -erected at various dates from the end of the sixteenth down to the -first two decades of the eighteenth century contains many traces of -the splendour which characterized the larger buildings which were -erected by ecclesiastics at the time the influence of the Renaissance -was at its height. The ceilings and wall of the principal salons and -halls are especially notable, and in some cases are most elaborately -decorated. The Government Offices which are opposite the Residenz -although known as the Neugebäude (possibly because they included the -Post and Telegraph office), in reality date, at any rate in part, from -the reign of Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, although they have -been modernized, altered, and added to from time to time. In the -octagonal tower was placed, in the beginning of the eighteenth -century, a beautiful _carillon_, the work of a watchmaker named Sauter -at the commencement of the seventeenth century, known as the -Glockenspiel, which chimes thrice daily at 7 a.m., 11 a.m., and 6 p.m. - -The Archbishops of Salzburg were not only in past ages ecclesiastics -and diplomatists but also sportsmen. Most, indeed, seem to have been -great lovers of horses. Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, Salzburg, built -some magnificent stables adorned with marble on the slopes of the -Mönchsberg; attached to them were a covered riding school for use in -winter, and another open-air one for summer use. Though the stables -themselves are now barracks, the open-air school is still one of the -sights of the town. In the side of the Mönchsberg were hewn in 1693 -three great galleries for the accommodation of spectators of the -sports in the summer riding school; they have long ago been overgrown -with ivy and creepers which add greatly to their picturesqueness, but -are still occasionally used for the purpose for which they were -originally constructed. - -In the winter riding school there is an interesting ceiling fresco -depicting a joust or tournament dating from the last decade of the -seventeenth century. - -Several of the Archbishops of Salzburg appear to have had a liking -for rock excavations, and the Archbishop Sigismund von Schrattenbach -was one of the number. In the latter half of the eighteenth century, -in 1767 to be precise, he constructed the Neuthor, a tunnel through -the solid rock some four hundred and fifty feet in length, which it -took two years to make. It pierced through the Mönchsberg and thus -united the suburb of Riedenberg with the rest of the town. At the -Riedenberg end is a statue to St. Sigismund in commemoration of the -Archbishop, who placed his own medallion at the town end of the tunnel -with the Latin inscription "Te saxa loquntur" (The very stones praise -thee) above it. - -[Sidenote: THE SCHLOSS MIRABELL] - -To the Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, or rather to his passion -for the beautiful daughter of a Salzburg merchant whose name was -perhaps not inappropriately Salome, the charming Schloss Mirabell -chiefly owes its existence. Here (so the story goes) the beautiful -Salome Alt was installed as mistress, amid splendour and lavish -expenditure befitting a King's favourite. For her were constructed and -laid out delightful gardens, with fine terraces, shady walks, wide -lawns of exquisitely "velvety" turf, the like of which we have seldom -seen even in the "grass" counties of England; quaintly shaped -flower-beds, fountains and ponds, mazes and avenues of fine trees. For -her, too, were numerous groups of statuary, and single figures of a -mythological and artistic character installed. Some of these are of -considerable merit; and few are without distinctive decorative value -in the surroundings amid which they have been placed. - -In the gardens themselves there is a constant succession of delightful -flowers all the year round. On the occasion of our last visit the -sweetly scented linden avenue was in full bloom, whilst roses were in -profusion--we were told they bloom almost all the year round in this -favoured and beautiful spot--and the jasmine, orange trees, and many -other beautiful and homely flowers perfumed the summer air, and spread -out in a riot of colour on every hand. Aloes, palms, Portugal -laurels, daphne, and other shrubs afford relief to the eye, and in the -background, towering high above the quietude of this old-fashioned -garden, looms the vast and commanding Hohen-Salzburg, with its roofs -and pinnacles shimmering and glancing in the sunshine of the upper -air. - -In the gardens are also the interesting aviary of the Salzburg Society -for the Protection of Birds, and the former Summer Theatre near the -French Garden with the grassy stage and wings formed of "trimly" -clipped hedges. - -The mansion itself suffered severely from a fire in 1818, but the -Marble Hall and staircase which escaped are well worth seeing, as are -also the decorations of several of the older rooms. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[15] Bosnia and Herzegovina have been recently annexed. - - - - -CHAPTER VII - - THE ENVIRONS OF SALZBURG--HELLBRUNN, ITS UNIQUE FOUNTAINS - AND GARDENS--THE CASTLE OF ANIF--THE GAISBERG--THE - KAPUZINGERBERG--THE MOZART-HÄUSCHEN--THE - MÖNCHSBERG--SALZBURG CHURCHES - - -In the neighbourhood of Salzburg there are several beautiful castles -erected by various holders of the See. Amongst them the charmingly -situated Leopoldskron, lying to the south of the Mönchsberg, -overlooking a lake covered in early summer with a profusion of water -lilies and other water plants, and embracing a magnificent prospect of -the environing mountains. The drive to Leopoldskron is one not to be -missed. As one passes along the magnificent avenue, or _allée_, of -trees, through flower-bedecked fields, and with the fresh air from off -the river and mountains perfumed by the carpet of blossoms which lies -stretched on either side of the road, one is able to realize to the -full the rural charm which surrounds the historic and busy town just -left behind. - -[Sidenote: HELLBRUNN AND ITS FOUNTAINS] - -But a little distance further, on the other side of the Salzach, is -Hellbrunn, once an Archiepiscopal and now an Imperial possession. It -is surrounded by a large deer park, and owes its origin to the -Archbishop Marcus Sittich in 1613. It is pleasantly situated, and was, -according to tradition, the retreat and pleasure palace of its -founder, who was of a far more social and lively disposition than -Archbishops, even in that somewhat lax age, were supposed to be, and -here he installed his favourites. In the chateau itself there are some -fine state apartments, in one of which are some interesting frescoes -by Mascagni, Franz von Sienna, and Solari the younger. - -But the gardens and unique fountains and "waterworks," which are laid -out and planned in the style so popular during the seventeenth and -eighteenth centuries, are the great attractions of Hellbrunn, not only -to the foreign visitors, but on Sundays especially to the Salzburg -folk, and those of the neighbouring villages who flock in thousands to -the chateau. In the gardens of Hellbrunn one finds the same velvety -turf that so generally distinguishes those of other castles in this -fertile valley of the Salzach; whilst in the ponds, lakes, fountains, -and "trick" waterworks--invented by the Archbishop, so it is said, to -amuse his favourites during his enforced absences upon his -ecclesiastical duties and affairs of State--one has something quite -out of the ordinary. - -Indeed, probably in no other garden in the world do unsuspecting -visitors run such risks of a soaking or impromptu shower baths as at -Hellbrunn. Jets start suddenly (at the turn of secret taps by the -custodian, who seems to take a cynical delight, bred of many -experiences, in the visitor's discomfiture) from rockeries, from the -corners of plaster columns, from the mouths, finger-tips and eyes of -statues, from the foliage of trees, from roofs of grottoes, from the -edges of the very paths along which one is unsuspectingly walking, -from, it appears, the very ground beneath one's feet. One is lured -into a grotto to admire a statue or to "see something" which may or -may not actually exist, only a moment later to find one's exit blocked -by a curtain of water, which pours down from the outside rocks above -the entrance. This lifts and one makes a dash for liberty, only to be -assailed by jets of water converging or spurting across the path one -has to follow. Visitors seat themselves upon a marble bench a few -moments later, and a whole battery of jets plays upon the unfortunate -sitters, or are so arranged that, whilst not actually playing upon -them, to escape without "running the gauntlet," for the amusement of -the more discreet or knowing onlookers, is impossible. On fine Sundays -when there is usually a great crowd of visitors at this favourite -out-of-town resort, which boasts of an excellent restaurant, there is, -of course, plenty of fun when the jets begin to play for the lucky -folk who have "been there before." - -Along one path leading from the chateau to the lawns and fish-ponds, -the latter of which are crowded with huge carp and other fish, some of -which are reputed to be as old as Hellbrunn itself, there are set in -niches a number of figures, blacksmiths, armourers, millers, and the -like with their anvils, forges, and mills worked by a tiny runlet of -water. And not far from these is the famous mechanical Theatre, also -worked by water power, with its organ, and some hundred and fifty -figures in sixteenth- and seventeenth-century costumes, which give -quaint performances, depicting a busy town, dancers (these latter very -amusing with their pirouettes and posturings), soldiers, fighting, -jousts, etc. Of the water grottoes that known as the Neptune--with, it -is said, five thousand jets--is the largest, and there are also the -Rainbow, Fairy, and Orpheus grottoes, each one bringing into play some -fresh piece of mechanical or other ingenuity. - -In the deer park is situated the famous Monatsschlösschen upon a -wooded knoll, from which a fine view is obtainable. This building was -erected (some say for a bet) within a month's time by Archbishop -Marcus Sittich. There was at the time a popular belief that he was -assisted in the accomplishment of what was, at all events in those -days, a wonderful feat by Satan himself. - - [Illustration: MOUNTAIN PASTURES] - -The Stone Theatre near by is also worth seeing. It has a naturally -formed stage and auditorium, upon the former of which in ancient times -pastoral and other plays were performed for the amusement of the -Archbishops and their friends. - -[Sidenote: ANIF AND THE GAISBERG] - -The Castle of Anif, which is reached by a pleasant road from Hellbrunn -in about twenty minutes, is well worth a visit. It is a most charming -chateau dating originally from the second decade of the thirteenth -century, of late years restored in Gothic style by the owner, one of -the Counts Arco-Steppberg. It is built in the centre of a lake, and is -surrounded by a well-wooded and beautiful park, and is of great -interest as a well-preserved survival of the fortified domestic -architecture of other days. It is beautifully furnished, and contains -many finely decorated rooms, and a valuable art collection. - -The return to Salzburg through the fields at sunset is a delightful -experience. To the back and to the left of one are the towering -mountain summits tinged with the Alpine glow which turns their rocky -peaks almost blood red, and their snow-fields a deep rose pink. And -right ahead stands up, mystic-looking as some fairy fortress in the -waning light, Hohen-Salzburg, its roofs and walls reddened and given -the tints of nacre, and its windows shining like the open doors of -furnaces. A never-to-be-forgotten picture. - -Both the Gaisberg, up which there is now a funicular railway, and at -whose foot Aigen, with its interesting Church and Castle acquired by -the family of Prince Schwarzenberg in 1804, lies, and the -Kapuzingerberg should be visited by all who have the time, and for -whom a wide and pleasant prospect of mountain ranges, valleys, and the -Salzach, threading its silvery way dividing the city and flowing -northward and southward through the valley, has attractions. - -The Gaisberg is ascended from the little village of Parsch, reached by -tram from the city. The railway takes one through beautiful scenery in -about an hour to the summit of the mountain, which is so favourite an -excursion with the well-to-do Salzburgers, and from which such a -beautiful prospect is spread out at one's feet. To the north one can -catch glimpses of the undulating foreground of the Alps and shining -lakes; whilst Salzburg now more than 4000 feet below looks almost -insignificant, and like a toy town set in the midst of a green plain -through which winds a thin, silver line, the Salzach. In the far -distance is the magnificent range of the Alps, in which stand the -Watzmann, 9050 feet; the Dachstein, 9990 feet, with its rocky -pinnacles catching the sunshine, and its glaciers and snow-fields -gleaming white, whilst in the further distance through the deep-cut -gap formed by the Lueg Pass one sees the fields of eternal snow on the -Hohen Tauern glinting at one, and on a quite clear day one can catch -glimpses of the white peaks of the Grossglockner, 12,660 feet and the -Wiesbachhorn, 11,900 feet, across the desolate-looking Steinerne Meer. -The prospect has been compared, but somewhat loosely we think, to that -from the Rigi. But, whether we think it finer or less fine, we can -agree that in one respect the view and interest of the scene is not -exceeded by its Swiss rival--the wonderful changes of light and shade -which come and go over the landscape between the hours of sunrise and -sunset, during which Nature seems to work with a brush full of the -most delicate colours and uses them as no human artist could hope to -do. - -From the Kapuzingerberg, which is only half the height of the -Gaisberg, the view is not so extensive, but it is well worth climbing -to see. On the way up one obtains most beautiful peeps of the city -from two distinct points; whilst from the summit one gets a panorama -which will satisfy all save those who have made the Gaisberg ascent -first. The way up is, after a long flight of steps about two hundred -in number, through a most delightful beech wood, where one is tempted -often to stop to rest or to admire some vista of the valley or town -seen through a framework of feathery, green branches. There are, too, -on the Kapuzingerberg several interesting buildings. The first to be -reached is the Church of the Capuchin Monastery built in the last year -of the sixteenth century by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich. A beautiful old -garden is attached to the Monastery, from which one has a fine -prospect of the town and surroundings. Alas! it is only open to men, -and thus by monkish custom women are shut out of one more "earthly -paradise." - -[Sidenote: THE MOZART MEMORIAL] - -But to music lovers and many others who ascend the Kapuzingerberg the -Mozart-Häuschen, situated in a charming little garden near the -Monastery, will be the chief object of interest. This memorial to the -master was presented to the city by Prince Camillo zu Starhemberg, and -was completed in June, 1877, being thrown open to the public six weeks -later, on July 18th, on the occasion of the first musical festival. -This cottage, which formerly stood in the courtyard of the so-called -old "Freihaus" in Vienna, has an added interest from the fact that in -it was composed the opera "Die Zauberflöte." - -The furniture, it should be noted, is not the original but a clever -and exact copy of the articles comprising it. The former is in the -collection of Prince Starhemberg. The top step of the cottage is, -however, said to be "veritable." In the cottage are kept a great -number of wreaths with ribbon streamers, embroideries, etc., which -have been sent by admirers of Mozart's genius. Also some beautiful -tablets of embossed metal commemorating the first musical festival -held in 1877. There is also hung in the cottage the picture "Mozart at -the Spinet" by the Italian artist Romaco, a photograph of the only -portrait of the composer painted from life which is known to exist, -which was the work of Doris Stock of Dresden in 1787; and the pictures -of the various performers in the operas given at Cassel. The bust, -which stands outside the cottage, is the work of the well-known -sculptor Edmund Hellmer, of Vienna, and was the gift of Baron Schwarz. - -As one stands in the garden, with its pleasant prospect, quietude, and -beautiful flowers, one cannot but feel that few more suitable spots -could have been selected for a memorial to a musical genius of -Mozart's nature. Far better is it, indeed, than some more pretentious -place nearer the haunts of men. - -[Sidenote: ON THE MÖNCHSBERG] - -The Mönchsberg and a walk along its ridge should not be missed by any -one who has a little time to spare whilst at Salzburg. The explorer -will be well rewarded for his toil. One is apt to estimate the -Mönchsberg by its Hohen-Salzburg end, which so dominates the city. It -is difficult, indeed, from down below in the narrow streets to believe -that some 300 feet above one lie not only woods and tree-shaded walks, -but even green, flower-bedecked fields. The most direct and -interesting way up the Mönchsberg is by the Sigmund Haffnergasse and -Hofstallgasse bearing to the left of the Fischbrunnen, and thence over -the Mönchsbergstiege. On reaching the top of the flight of steps the -way lies in the direction of Hohen-Salzburg as far as the passage -leading into the Nonnthal and to Leopoldskron, then one climbs to the -left, and after a little distance reaches the beautiful view point -known as Konig Ludwig-Fernsicht, or King Ludvig's Lookout. - -The prospect from here is wonderfully wide and beautiful, embracing as -it does the villas on the other side of the town, and the villages and -farms of the valley with their picturesque background of mountain -ranges, including nearer in the Göll and Untersberg. - - [Illustration: HOHEN-SALZBURG AND THE NONNBERG] - -To the left and on the way along the ridge to the fortress is situated -the beautiful villa of the famous singer Bianca Bianchi, and from the -projecting bastion in the same direction one obtains a fine view of -the town below, and valley of the Salzach. Both in the direction of -Mülln to the right, and of Hohen-Salzburg to the left, there are -many fine views as one takes one's way either by shaded paths or -through the fields which lead to the Bürgerwehrsöller, where there is -an ancient watch-tower on the slope of the hill from whence one has a -wonderful panoramic view of the city and its environs. From the -opposite end of the rampart one obtains a widely extended prospect -towards Reichenhall, Marzoll, Maxglan, and the Bavarian plain, which -is not easily surpassed from the neighbourhood of any other town of -the size in western Austria. - -One can then either descend to the Marketenderschlössl through the -beautiful woods by one of the well-kept paths, and thence reach Mülln, -or retrace one's steps, and walk right along to the Hohen-Salzburg end -of the Mönchsberg, from whence by entering the fortress and descending -by way of the Nonnberg one obtains a fine view of the other portion of -the Salzach valley in the direction of the Gaisberg, Hellbrunn, and -Anif. - -On the Nonnberg, so called from the Benedictine Convent built upon it, -stands the fine Gothic Chapel founded in the first year of the -eleventh century and beautifully restored in the fifteenth. In it is -much fine stained glass, a winged altar piece of great interest; and -there are also some interesting frescoes in the old tower. -Unfortunately the cloisters are seldom if ever shown to visitors; they -are the oldest now existent in the principality, and it is said even -in the Austrian empire, dating as they do from the commencement of the -eleventh century. They are charming and picturesque, and well worth -the trouble which it is generally necessary to take in order to obtain -permission to see them. - -In Salzburg there is such a wealth of interesting buildings and places -that to describe all one has seen or can see there is no space. -Perhaps of those remaining to which reference has not yet been made, -most people visit the house in which Mozart was born, situated in the -narrow, picturesque old Getreidegasse; the Franciscan, formerly the -Parish Church; the Church of St. Peter, with its ancient and -picturesque burial-ground beneath the shadow of the towering fern- and -flower-clothed Mönchsberg, and the Caroline Augustus Museum. There -are, of course, also the Dreifaltigkeits Kirche, with fine frescoes -and carvings, and the University Church, both worth a visit. - -To Mozart's birthplace, along the quaint and narrow Getreidegasse with -its beautiful old signs of wrought-iron work projecting from the shop -fronts on either hand, come hundreds of English and American visitors -annually. Now the house is also a Mozart Museum, with much of interest -for admirers of the composer, antiquarians and students. In the -birth-chamber itself one finds a most valuable series of family -portraits, including some of Mozart's wife, Constance Weber; also -those of his landlord and his wife, Lorenz Johann and Maria Theresa -Hagenauer. There are also the "scores" of many of his operas, and -other compositions, records of the Mozart family; and perhaps most -interesting of all the small clavichord or spinet, and the grand piano -or reiseclavier, which was a present from his brother Karl, on which -he used to play. - -In the family sitting-room there are many interesting relics of the -composer's father, mother, and other relatives, including Mozart's own -pocket-book-diary, a large number of fragments of compositions, which -from one cause or another were destined never to be completed, many -letters of the family, copies of Mozart's three first published pieces -printed in Paris, and several pictures of the house in the -Rauhensteingasse, Vienna, where the composer for some years lived and -ultimately, on January 5, 1791, died. Salzburg has well-honoured her -famous son's memory by the several memorials of him within her gates, -including the fine though simply conceived bronze statue in the -Mozart-Platz which cost nearly £2000, and was erected by voluntary -subscriptions in 1842. By the foundation of the Mozarteum or "Society -for the Cultivation of Mozart," not only is the memory of the great -composer kept green, but the support of the School of Music of the -same name is ensured. Thus the city of his birth, which did him (as is -so frequently the case) but little honour during his lifetime, has -nowadays become the centre of enthusiasm for his works. Festivals of -his music take place during the summer months, at which not only the -famous and beautiful Viennese Philharmonic Orchestra takes part, but -also the most celebrated conductors and artistes. - -Although Salzburg had been the residence of other famous musicians and -composers, it is Mozart and his genius which dominates the ancient -city's musical life, and proves so attractive an element to musicians -and music lovers who visit it. - -[Sidenote: SALZBURG MUSICIANS] - -Michael Haydn, too, composer of much fine church music, was a resident -in Salzburg and has a rather commonplace monument erected to his -memory in St. Peter's Church. The latter is in the Romanesque style, -founded in the middle of the twelfth century, and badly restored in -the middle of the eighteenth, and is of great interest to the -antiquarian and student of architecture. The portal consists of seven -arches which gradually diminish in size, and are inlaid with strips of -white and red marble. The very remarkable archings which strike one -directly one has entered the building are portions of the original -church. On a small altar near the vestry is a well-carved statue of -the Virgin, said to be the work of one of the Archbishops, of about -the end of the twelfth century, although there appears little real -evidence in support of the suggestion. - -The frescoes in the nave, representing scenes from the Crucifixion, -painted in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, are worth study. -In Salzburg considerable store is set upon the monuments in the -church, but few rank high as works of art, although marking the graves -or being memorials of distinguished and historic persons connected -with the city's life in the past. - -The beautiful though ruinous cemetery of St. Peter, which, with its -crumbling tombs of the great dead, interesting and quaint mural -tablets, and arcaded vaults belonging to some of the most important -and famous Salzburg families, lies at the foot of the Mönchsberg, is, -as well as the most picturesque, the oldest cemetery in Salzburg. It -is difficult to exaggerate the interest and charm of the spot; always -still, although set in the midst of a city, and within a few hundred -yards of the principal and busiest thoroughfares. That it possesses a -wonderful and mysterious attraction for tourists we can testify; and, -indeed, we would almost go as far as to say that one meets more -English and American visitors in this peaceful corner of the city than -in any other spot on the southern side of the Salzach. - -The celebrated Monastery of St. Peter, founded by St. Rupertus in -(about) 582, was, until the first decade of the twelfth century, the -residence of the bishops and archbishops of the diocese. The present -building was erected during the reign of Archbishop Max Gandolph -during the period covered by the years 1661-1674. It can be visited, -and the library is full of the most interesting and valuable MSS., -early copper plate engravings, and consists of about 45,000 volumes -and some 250 illuminated and other MSS., chiefly upon parchment. -Several of the latter and some of the early printed books are -practically priceless. The Librarian is always delighted to exhibit -the treasures under his charge, and in him we found (as doubtless will -all intelligent bibliophiles) a kindred spirit, and a most interesting -cicerone. - -[Sidenote: THE MUSEUM] - -It is almost impossible in Salzburg, especially if one would really -know something of the past life of the principality, and the city, to -follow that excellent rule of avoiding museums. In the Salzburg -Carolino-Augusteum Museum one finds so much that brings vividly before -one other times and other customs. Although started but three-quarters -of a century ago the Museum has already become a repository of the -deepest interest, much frequented by students of all types, the -antiquarian and the man of science. It was due to the initiative of -Vicenza Maria Süss, one of the leading town officials at the period of -its foundation in 1834. The work which he began was well continued and -supplemented by that of Jost Schiffmann, the well-known Swiss painter, -and an enthusiastic committee, largely to whose credit must be placed -the excellent arrangement of the art and other sections of the -collection. - -One of the most interesting and unique features of the Museum is the -suite of rooms furnished accurately and entirely in the style of the -sixteenth and seventeenth centuries; of these one of the most charming -is the "Hunting Room" with its fine oak presses, pretty recessed -window, and trophies of the chase. In the Hall of Antiquities are many -interesting relics of the Roman occupation of the country, and also in -the Lapidarium. A most excellent idea took shape in the Hall of -Industry, where are collected together many excellent specimens of -various "masterworks" of iron, woodcarving, etc. - -The Music Room contains some of the most valuable musical instruments -of the last three centuries, including spinets, violins, and others, -some of these priceless. In the Armoury are relics of deep interest of -the terrible Peasants' War, including wooden cannon, crude swords -beaten from scythes, executioners' swords, curious and cumbersome -firearms, and some of the lances used by the Landsknechte. - -The Costume Room has many attractions for lady visitors, who linger -not only to admire the fashions of the past, but to inspect the -embroideries which came from the industrious and skilful fingers of -past generations of women, "old" with the dignity, grace, and charm -which the "new" woman so sadly lacks. - -On the same floor are the interesting Mediæval Kitchen, with its -ancient and carefully kept copper and other utensils glinting at one -from their hooks in the half-gloom of the recesses; the Ladies' -Chamber, with its charming oriel, stained-glass window, colour of life -of the period, and air of repose; the study, to show one the -environment old-time students loved; a fine state-room; and a -beautiful Renaissance Hall. - -After these vivid reconstructions of the past one passes somewhat -regretfully to the higher floor and prehistoric things. The priceless -Celtic helmet, found in the Pass of Lueg, interesting though it is, -seems "lifeless" in comparison with what one has just seen; as do -somehow Roman statues and arms, and similar objects. And one needs the -beautiful and richly ornamented panelling, oriels, and similar objects -of the final room to bring back colour into things. - -To visit and study this deeply interesting collection leaves one with -a very good idea of the evolution of culture, science, and art during -the last five centuries of the principality's history, one's knowledge -of native art being easily further extended by a visit to the -Kunstlerhaus near the Karolinenbrucke. Salzburg has produced at least -one great artist in Hans Makart, who by common consent is esteemed one -of the most vivid and brilliant colourists of his day. - -In some of the villages near Salzburg, as also during "fair" times and -festival times in the city itself, one is able to witness some of the -quaint, picturesque, and dramatic peasant dances for which the valley -of the Salzach has some reputation. - -[Sidenote: A PEASANTS' BALL] - -We were especially fortunate whilst recently there in witnessing not -only peasant dances such as we have referred to, but also a peasant -ball. - -Amongst the dances specially notable was a variety of "Gaillarde," and -"Allemande," a type of the dance known as "Siebensprung," where the -male performers make a series of seven different movements with -hands, elbows, knees, feet; and then almost touch the floor with -their foreheads whilst their female companions pirouette around them. -The "Allemande," with its graceful twirling and twisting, and -interlacing of the arms, and graceful bending of the bodies of the -dancers, showing off the lines of the women's figures, is especially -picturesque. - -Then came types of other and more local dances, in one of which the -women pirouetted round and round the room until scarcely able to -stand, their short skirts gradually seeming to become inflated like -balloons, and ascending inch by inch until knee high, when suddenly -the dancers paused, their skirts fell, and with a sharp twirl and -swish the latter were wound around their lower limbs in plastic folds. - -Then there was a pretty dance commencing with a figure of the -"Allemande," and proceeding to a courtship in pantomime, in which the -women peered shyly at their partners between the circle formed by the -interlaced arms, and ending by the men stooping, and whilst continuing -a waltz step, suddenly seizing their companions round the knees and -lifting them breast high, all the while continuing to circle the room -in a "springy" rather than a gliding waltz. - -Then followed a still more dramatic dance-play, in which the whole -story of a peasant courtship from early days until the wedding was -depicted in pantomime, with half a dozen characters beside the happy -pair. Most of the performers were not only graceful and finished -dancers, but were possessed of distinct dramatic gifts. The folk -songs, accompanied upon rather weird instruments consisting of -shepherds' pipes, guitars, fiddles, horns, and what, until it was put -together, appeared to be a collection of short pieces of gas pipe of -various lengths or strips of metal, were intensely interesting and -musical. - -What struck us perhaps more than anything else, save the actual -dancing and singing, was the charming manners of the women, and the -perfect manners of the men. Peasants though they were, there was a -complete absence of coarseness or roughness in general behaviour, in -place of which one had perhaps a rather grave courtesy. And when at -last it occurred to some of the men that perhaps the "foreigners" -might like to dance, they approached the ladies of the party with a -striking grace and courtesy of manner. The Salzburg girls, too, in -their pretty costumes were just as gracious and charming as English -girls of the upper middle class, when asked to favour some of the -English men of the party with a dance. The scene was made even more -kaleidoscopic in effect when at last the sombre evening dress of the -latter mingled with and formed a foil to gay kerchiefs, snowy white -bodices worn under a type of bolero jacket of the women, and the green -and bright brown waistcoats and short knee breeches of the men. Across -some of the waistcoats, which were many of them fastened with silver -buttons, jangled quite a collection of coins, exhibiting (so we were -told) the financial position of the wearer, so that any girl might -know what a suitor or possible suitor was worth! We hope that no young -man ever puts upon his waistcoat a single silver krone piece more than -he is entitled to. But if very much in love to what deception of this -kind might he not stoop? And mercenary indeed must be the maiden who -would not in the end pardon his offence, which was so warm a tribute -to the power of her charms. - - [Illustration: SALZBURG MARKETWOMEN] - -[Sidenote: IN THE MARKET] - -Even nowadays a good deal of "costume" can at times be found in the -Market, which, surrounded by old-time building and dominated by -Hohen-Salzburg, is very picturesque with its tiny stalls--some shaded -by huge umbrellas--and buxom market women in short skirts, gay -kerchiefs, and sometimes in types of the peasant costumes prevailing -in the immediate district. As a general rule the market folk are good -models both for artists and amateur photographers, though some of -the younger women coquettishly pretend that they object to be -photographed, whilst all the while they are desperately anxious to -come into the picture. - -To leave this fascinating old-world town, where so much of the most -beautiful in modern ideas stands side by side with ancient things, -without a visit to some of the charming and interesting places in the -immediate district--lovely lakes rivalling the deep-blue sky above -them in the tint of their waters; peaceful valleys, where pure air -invigorates scented by passage through pinewoods and across -flower-decked Alpine pastures; wonderful peaks covered with that -eternal weight of glorious snow, and bound about in some cases by the -immemorial fastnesses of environing glaciers--should be impossible. -Our only regret is that neither space nor the scope of the present -volume permits of some description of the beauties which we have -visited and which lie so close at hand; indeed, almost within call of -the beautiful city set in a valley, and surrounded with majestic and -lofty mountains, the lower slopes of whose wilder peaks are softened -by pine forests, and fertile upper pastures. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - - SOME TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF SOUTH TYROL--MERAN, BOZEN, - KLAUSEN, BRIXEN, SPINGES, STERZING, MATREI - - -[Sidenote: MERAN] - -So many pens have described and praised Meran, the ancient capital of -Tyrol, that there must be few adjectives of appreciation left -unapplied to it. Many poets have also sung of this beautifully -situated little town of some 8000 inhabitants which once played so -important a part in Tyrolese history, and nowadays has developed into -a fashionable health resort. - -It has by turns been called "the Jewel of South Tyrol," "Tyrol's sweet -Paradise," and in one of the visitor's books "A Paradise of God's -making and man's improving"! Artists love it, and therefore it goes -without saying that Meran is both beautiful and picturesque. From -whatever side one approaches the town, whether by the more usual route -from the West via Innsbruck, and then by the little branch line of the -Brenner railway from Bozen; from the south through Verona; from the -north by way of Munich and Innsbruck,--one is at once struck by its -wonderfully favoured situation amid vineyards, orchards and rich -pasture land, set in a wide valley surrounded by beautiful mountain -ranges, and watered by the Passer River. - -It is, indeed, a charming spot in which to either rest--as so many -do--or from which to make excursions so varied in character, that they -may suit all tastes. - - [Illustration: WINTER NEAR MERAN] - -The first view of the town, with its spires, huge hotels, -white-walled houses and villas, and the ruins of Castle Tyrol set high -on the north-western and vine-clad slope of the Kuchelberg, is one of -great beauty. On the lower hillsides are chestnut groves and pine -woods; and many of the villas and houses of the town itself appear -amid them as though embowered in green. - -The railway from Bozen traverses the picturesque Etsch Valley, which -is dotted with orchards, and follows the course of the Etsch to where -it joins the Passer about three-quarters of a mile from Meran. - -The architecture of the town, as is the case with most places of any -size in South Tyrol, is distinctly Italian in general characteristics. -In fact, one of the things which makes Tyrol, as a whole, of unusual -interest to students and artists is the variety of the domestic -architecture found within its borders. Although there are many quaint -corners and delightful byways in Meran, there is really only one -important business thoroughfare, running almost due east and west and -of considerable length, with arcaded shops known as "Unter den Lauben" -(in the shade). It is probably because it has this aspect that one of -the sunniest streets we have ever been in has been so amply provided -with shady arcades; and in summer the latter can be appreciated to the -full. In the season the long street is at times crowded with -foreigners from England, Germany, Italy, and America, and has a busy -and cosmopolitan air somewhat out of character with its general -old-world look. - -Just off this interesting thoroughfare stands the Burg, or, to give it -its fuller and ancient name, the Landesfürstliche Burg, in ancient -times the town residence of the Counts of Tyrol. Retired as it is in -the courtyard of the Magistrats Gebäude it is often overlooked by the -passing tourist, although of great antiquarian and historical -interest. Dating from the fifteenth century, the building has been -admirably and sympathetically restored, and is a treasure-house of -fine old furniture and _bric-a-brac_. There are also some interesting -frescoes and coats-of-arms of former owners and inhabitants. It is, -perhaps, difficult to realize that amongst the latter in the middle of -the fifteenth century was a Scottish princess. But it was to the Burg -that Sigismund, son of Duke Frederick of the Empty Purse, brought his -bride Eleonora, daughter of James I. of Scotland, over the Brenner and -via Bozen, to the house and home he had prepared for her reception. - -From Bozen onwards, we are told, the young couple's progress was -marked by rejoicings and enthusiasm as they passed from castle to -castle, until at last they came, in due time, to the then capital of -Tyrol. Eleonora's ultimate popularity with the Tyrolese was, perhaps, -even more owing to her skill in the chase than to her intellectual -gifts, although the latter were very remarkable for a woman of that -period. The translator of "The Book of Celebrated Women," by -Boccaccio, waxes very enthusiastic over her, and he is by no means the -only writer of the period who has left on record a tribute to the -Archduchess' high mental and physical qualities. That Eleonora was of -a scholarly disposition and gifted with "tongues" is proved by her -translation of a French Romance of the period, "Pontus and Sidoni," -into German. It is now a rare book, although copies are occasionally -found, and it would appear to have had a considerable vogue at the -time it was published. It was printed at Augsburg. In the preface one -gathers that the translation was done by the noble authoress to -"please his Serene Highness and Lord Sigismund, Archduke of Austria, -her lawful husband." - -In this charming old palace, set back from the hum and bustle of the -street, Sigismund and Eleonora dwelt for some years, happy in the -pursuit of learning, the enjoyment of sport, and in the affection of -the townsfolk. - -In the Burg it is possible to obtain a very good conception of what a -mediæval nobleman's house really was like, for not only have many -interesting specimens of furniture, presses, chairs and other fittings -been preserved, but also household utensils, and other articles of -common use. - -There are, in the byways and courtyards of the main street, several -other most interesting houses dating from the sixteenth and -seventeenth centuries, which will repay the attention of students of -architecture. And may we add the ubiquitous "Kodaker"? - -One of the most enduring impressions Meran leaves upon the mind is -that of being in the true sense "a garden city." No other place of the -size in Tyrol possesses so many beautiful and tree-shaded promenades, -walks and gardens. But the notice "smoking strictly prohibited" which -stares one in the face in the charming Gisela Promenade with its old -and feathery poplar trees fringing the bank of the Passer, and in -other similar resorts, is probably a regulation distasteful to many. - -Of "gartens" and cafés there is no lack. On the left bank of the river -is the pleasant Maria-Valerie Garten, where--as is the case with other -similar places--an excellent band frequently plays. Of the cafés at -least the Café Gilf should be visited, on account of its beautiful -vegetation and fine view of the Passer gorge and surrounding mountain -slopes which one obtains from the "look out." - -[Sidenote: MERAN HERO PLAYS] - -To many visitors the Hero Plays, which, for the last fifteen years, -have been performed annually, in the spring and generally in the -autumn, with scenes from the lives of the famous son of the Passer -Valley, Andreas Hofer, and his companions for the chief incidents, -will prove of great interest. The plays, which include"Tiroler-helden" -and one produced for the first time in August, 1901, entitled -"Frederick of the Empty Purse," are acted entirely by peasants. - -Many are acquainted with the fine dramatic gifts of the Bavarian -peasantry which have found expression in the plays at Ober-Ammergau; -but those of the Tyrolese are less well-known and less widely -recognized. Any one, however, who has seen one of the Meran "Hofer" -dramas will probably agree with us that it was well worth seeing, and -that the dramatic art displayed was not less praiseworthy than that of -the more famous performances at Ober-Ammergau. - -The plays are given outdoors in a large meadow on a huge stage, and -with natural scenery formed by a large chalet (with a bell turret -above the central gable) and other smaller buildings on either side, -with the hill slopes in the background, the stage being the street in -front of the chalet, and the "wings" the side streets. The field is -generally--especially for the autumn performances--boarded, and there -are a limited number of covered-in boxes facing the stage for the use -of those who prefer to be sheltered from the sun, which on fine days -is somewhat trying in its intensity, as, of course, no sunshades or -umbrellas are permitted. The natural beauties of the valley behind -form an appropriate and altogether charming "back-cloth" for the -scenery, which represents a portion of a Tyrol village with real -buildings. The most popular of the plays with the inhabitants of Meran -and the Tyrolese generally are undoubtedly those dealing with the -period of national history when their country was engaged in its -desperate struggle to free itself from the French and Bavarian -invaders. - -The acting is always excellent, and distinguished by that spontaneity -which seems so frequently to characterize outdoor representations. The -naturalness which also distinguishes the performances is probably -largely attributable to the fact that the actors have most of them -been not only well acquainted with the incidents they pourtray since -childhood, but are also in the main representing scenes and using -language of everyday life; and are not engaged in attempting to -interpret scenes and incidents in which they have no personal -interest, or of which they have only gained a knowledge by close and -tiresome study. - -[Sidenote: OLD-TIME COSTUMES] - -To the artist the stage management, which is remarkably good, and the -delightful blending of the ancient costumes in charming tableaux and -schemes of colour will make a special appeal. - -The plays not only add an undoubted and additional attraction to the -quaint and charming town, but also are deserving of the highest praise -from an artistic and dramatic point of view. - -Naturally Meran is over-full at the times of representation, so the -wise traveller books his rooms in advance, unless he wishes (as many -have done before now) to "sleep at the hotel of the beautiful star," -which in plain English means in the open air, and on the ground. - -We have just mentioned the costumes which appear in the plays. At -Meran the old costumes (though alas! they are being slowly but surely -superseded) have been preserved to a larger extent than in almost any -other place we know in Tyrol. The women's dress is undeniably -picturesque, just as it is markedly German in general character. Hats -are seldom worn, the hair is plainly and extremely neatly dressed, -brushed back off the brow, and secured in a simple knot behind by -means of a silver or silver-headed pin. The bodices are of velvet or -cloth, of the "corselet" type seen in Switzerland and many parts of -Germany as well as in Tyrol; and they are worn over a white chemisette -with puffed sleeves, which end just above the elbow and are generally -there confined by "ties" of coloured ribbon. - -The men's costume is scarcely less picturesque, consisting as it does -of a high-crowned hat of felt or cloth, bound round with numerous -bands of thin red or green cord, the first colour denoting a man is -married (a useful danger signal for unwary spinsters!), and the second -denoting a bachelor, eligible or otherwise. The jacket is usually of -brown or blackish brown cloth; cloth knee breeches (we have seen -buckskin on some of the "granfers") with wide red or green braces, and -sometimes an embroidered waistcoat, completes the costume. One other -feature is almost sure to strike the observer, the white aprons which -so many of the men wear when engaged in work. On festive occasions -silver belts are worn by some of the men in the surrounding valleys, -though we fancy these are considerably less common now than they were -even ten years ago. - -The variations of dress in the different valleys of Tyrol have been -ascribed by a well-known writer upon the subject as rising from the -circumstance that peasant costumes are very largely belated fashions -of the town; which, obtained perhaps three or even four generations or -longer ago, have in time come, by all save students of the subject, to -be looked upon erroneously as a mode of dress evolved by the peasant -wearers themselves. What in all probability really happened in many -cases was, some visitors to the towns when in need of fresh clothes -bought town-made and then fashionable garments which were copied by -neighbours (as do villagers in England at the present time), and thus -perpetuated from generation to generation, and not discarded until -some fresh sartorial idea percolated its way slowly and in much the -same manner to the often remote regions of these Tyrolese valleys and -upper pastures. - -On the occasion of the "Hofer" celebrations or "Hero" plays one even -nowadays sees a most interesting variety of costumes in Meran, -although the differences are not so marked as in former times, and -appear rather in small details than in immediately apparent -variations. - - [Illustration: MERAN] - -[Sidenote: IN THE VINEYARDS] - -Amongst the many "Cures" of the Continental Spas and invalid resorts -Meran possesses a unique one in the "Grape Cure." Nowhere in Tyrol can -the interesting harvesting of the grapes be better seen than at Meran. -The vineyards, for one thing, are more picturesque than in many -places, by reason of the practice of largely training the vines over -trellis work or rustic pergolas. In some vineyards these form perfect -covered walks or arcades of delightful green, through which the sun -filters to glint upon the purple and green-gold bunches of grapes -hanging in profusion on either hand and above one's head. But, as may -be imagined, the casual visitor does not have the freedom of the -vineyards on the hillsides when once the grapes are ripening off. Then -the gates, some of them adorned with rows of formidable-looking spikes -and hooks with a great and persistent affinity for clothing, are -closely shut against all intruders, and, in addition, that curious -individual the Saltner, whose name is probably derived from the Latin -word meaning forester, and hence guardian of lands of all kinds, is -placed on guard. His costume is such as to bring alarm not only to the -birds but even to human beings. Tyrolese children we believe have been -brought up to regard the Saltner as a type of "Bogey Man" of a very -efficient character. Usually he wears buckskin breeches or leggings, a -broad belt in which there shines a whole armoury of weapons of a -miscellaneous character comprising old pattern pistols, knives, and -sometimes a "horse" pistol of dimensions almost entitling it to be -spoken of as a gun. In his cap, which is of an uncommon shape, are -such a collection of feathers, martens' tails, plumes, and odds and -ends of ribbon as to cause it to resemble nothing so much as the -head-dress of a Sioux Indian. - -Notwithstanding this "terrific" personage, it is not very difficult -with the expenditure of a few kreutzers to obtain permission to enter -a vineyard in process of harvesting. The labour employed is chiefly -that of women and girls, who, armed with sharp sickles or large knives -with heavy and curved blades, stand beneath the trellises and hold a -wooden tray in one hand beneath the bunch to be severed. One skilled -sweep of the sickle and the latter falls into the tray with a minimum -of damage to the luscious fruit. - -Here and there along the paths are wooden tubs into which the trays -are emptied from time to time. And these tubs again are borne away by -men to the huge vats or tubs bound with iron, which are slung to a -framework or trolley on wheels to which oxen are harnessed, and by -them brought to the nearest convenient point in the vineyard. Then -when the vats are full almost to the brim, two men take up their -positions beside them, and proceed to crush and pound the grapes, -stems and all, into a dark-red, uninviting-looking mess with -long-handled, heavy wooden hammers. In many Italian vineyards it is -still the custom to "tread" the juice out, a practice which is far -less cleanly and hygienic (though it is said more thorough and -economical) than the Meran method. After the juice is all expressed it -is set aside to ferment, and the other processes of wine making are -afterwards gone through. - -The famous grape cure consists apparently of eating as much of the -fruit as one possibly can. Many doctors affirm that no particular -benefit is derived or can be hoped for unless upwards of two pounds of -fruit is consumed daily, the maximum quantity desirable being nine -pounds! Immense as this may seem, we have been assured that some -"patients" have considerably exceeded this amount. - -Perhaps the grape cure is so popular because, for one thing, to eat a -reasonable quantity of fully ripe and freshly gathered fruit is by no -means a disagreeable task for most people, and because it can be taken -anywhere. - -In the cafés one sees crowds undergoing the cure; on the numerous and -shady seats of the Gisela Promenade one sees folks eating grapes. And -practically in every street and alley, and along the mountain paths in -the vicinity of Meran one meets people with brown-paper bags, or if -taking the cure very seriously with little baskets, all eating grapes -as though their future well-being depended upon the quantity they -could consume in a given time. The "old stagers" generally divide -their daily quantity into two or three portions; taking one early in -the morning before "Halbmittag," the second about mid-day, and the -third at sundown. - -To its many other attractions Meran has added for the holiday maker -that of a good band, which performs during the season really most -excellent music in front of the Kurhaus, or in one or other of the -public gardens at Obermais. The Kurhaus, with its sheltered -Wandelhalle or promenade, naturally forms the pivot upon which the -more social side of the daily life of Meran turns. Here one meets not -only the invalid, but the traveller from all parts of the Continent; -and in the Kurhaus gardens one finds also those "birds of passage," -who alight for a time on their way further north or south. - -[Sidenote: SPORTS AND PASTIMES] - -The Sports Platz is one of the best in Tyrol. On it are held tennis -tournaments, cycle races (less than formerly), trotting events, and -horse races; whilst in the winter months the centre is converted into -an excellent skating lake. The races are largely attended by Italians -as well as natives, and at the larger meetings there is generally some -event of interest and importance from a sportsman's point of view. - -A big race day at Meran has many of the social and picturesque -elements of the smaller events at Chantilly. The ladies don their best -toilettes, and the beautiful surroundings and brilliant sunshine all -go to make a picture of great charm and animation. - -On the outskirts and in the immediate neighbourhood of Meran are so -many ancient castles that the town might well be called the "city of -castles." Just outside the Papist Gate is the half-ruined Schloss -Zenoburg, standing on a precipitous rock; whilst prettily situated at -Obermais stands Schloss Rubein with a famous avenue of cypresses. -Along the picturesque Bozen road is Schloss Katzenstein; which, seen -across the fields from the hillside, looks like a grim outpost -guarding the valley. - -Then there are also the Schloss Gojen, with its environment of shady -and odorous pine forests, and background of snow-capped mountains; -Schloss Vorst, but half an hour's drive from Meran, and finely -situated upon a rocky eminence overlooking the valley, and several -others of which could be told stories of romantic and historic -interest. - -And last, but greatest of them all, there is Schloss Tyrol which was -destined to give its name to the whole of the country. As it is one of -the most famous it is probably also the best known of all castles to -the average tourist and traveller in Tyrol. So ancient is it that -historians have been able to discover a mention of it at so early a -period as the last decade of the fourth century A.D. But, -notwithstanding this fact, the records relating to its earlier days -are neither full nor reliable. Of the life that went on within it and -the fate that possibly overtook it during the period covered by the -years (about) A.D. 400 to A.D. 1000 little, indeed, is discoverable. -Its present ruinous condition arose partly from neglect during the -troublous period of the wars at the end of the eighteenth and -commencement of the nineteenth century, and partly from the fact that -during the Bavarian occupation of the country in 1808-9, the then -Government sold the castle for the ridiculous sum of a couple of -hundred pounds for the purpose of destruction so that the stones could -be used as building material![16] - - [Illustration: SCHLOSS TYROL, NEAR MERAN] - -[Sidenote: ANCIENT CASTLES] - -Castle Tyrol stands a relic of past glories, feats of arms, strenuous -living, and chivalry on a rocky ridge or spur of the mountains above -the vineyards, which climb upwards towards the white and imposing -castle walls. Behind and above rise the pine forests running upwards -to meet the rocky slopes of the Kückelberg and Vintschgau range. -The most ancient portions of the present building are some of the -walls, a porch, and two marble doorways dating from about the twelfth -century, and the chapel. In the latter there is a fine representation -of the Fall of Man, and interesting carvings. From its commanding -position it is only to be expected that a magnificent prospect is to -be had of the Adige Valley, the chain of the Ulten-Thal and Mendel -mountains, and the vineyards upon the slopes which swell upwards from -the valley. Seen either soon after sunrise (which few people, we -imagine, do) or just at sunset, the views from the castle, more -especially that from the Kaisersaal, are of wonderful pictorial beauty -and charm. - -Though we have too little space to devote to the many delightful -places in the Meran valley which invite exploration, or to mention the -numerous walks which tempt the pedestrian, we must give a passing word -or two to the Château or Castle of Schönna, which lies nearly two -thousand feet above sea-level like a hoary and time-worn sentinel at -the entrance to the Passeier Valley. It is easily reached from -Obermais by an excellent road suitable even for cyclists, and is well -worth a visit owing to the representative collection of old weapons -gathered within it, and its picturesque situation. Dating from the -early years of the twelfth century, it is an excellent example of the -ancient feudal fortress-residence of those far-off times. A mention of -the Château Lebenberg, distant about an hour and a half's walk from -Meran, is justified--although it is now a pension--by reason of its -excellent state of preservation, and the historical paintings in -several of the most interesting rooms. The walk, too, along the side -of the mountains by way of Marling and picturesque St. Anton is one to -be enjoyed and remembered. - -Some ten miles northward in the Passeier Valley, just a little -distance beyond the village of St. Martin, where one sees many -examples of the wall paintings which are more especially numerous in -the towns and villages of Southern Tyrol, stands the most famous -national pilgrimage place and historic shrine, Hofer's Inn, called -_Wirth am Sand_ or the "Sandy Inn," literally the "Inn by the Sand." -It is quite an unpretentious building standing by the roadside, and -would scarcely attract the notice of passing travellers. It is entered -by a gallery reached up a short flight of steps. The interior is -scrupulously clean, and although it is plainly furnished one is rather -the more impressed by this circumstance which leaves the famous Inn, -where Hofer was born on November 22, 1767, much as we are told it was -in his time. From the pleasant dining-room on the first floor, with -curtains of spotless muslin to keep out the almost blinding sunshine -of the valley, there are fine views towards Meran, and of the towering -mountains across the stony bed of the Passer. - -At the Inn there are some interesting relics of the patriot, and -pictures of him. One shows him as a big, strongly built man of not -much above average height, with a short nose, a fine and lofty -forehead, dark eyes, and a rather ruddy face, well-marked eyebrows, -and the famous long beard. - -At one time Hofer wore no beard, and the story goes that his growing -one--which ultimately was declared to be the longest in the -valley--arose from the chaff of his companions, who asserted that his -wife forbade him to wear one. Whether the tale be true or not it has -very general acceptance, and we all know that Hofer's beard was -ultimately one of his distinguishing features during the campaigns in -which he was engaged. There is a very pleasant balcony on the outside -of the house which, tradition asserts, was often used by Hofer and his -companions when holding their meetings or councils of war to devise -some scheme by which their beloved country could be freed from a -foreign yoke. - -[Sidenote: HOFER RELICS] - -Hofer's last letter, which is one of the most treasured of the -relics, even exceeding in interest the clothes which he wore when shot -at Mantua, is a splendid testimony to the dignity and greatness of the -man, which surmounted all troubles and disasters and was not lessened -or alloyed by triumphs. In it he speaks of his old home, of the -rushing Passer, of the beautiful mountains he would see never again, -and then goes on to say, "It is the great God's good will that I die -at Mantua," and then, "Farewell, beautiful world," adding, "but at the -thought of quitting it my eyes scarcely even moisten." Then follow the -words, "I am writing this at five in the morning; at nine I shall pass -into the presence of God," with the date "20th February, 1810." - -Far up the mountain side above his old home is the spot where Hofer -hid with his wife from November, 1809, till five o'clock on the -morning of January 18, 1810, when he was captured and taken under -strong escort first to Meran, and ultimately to Mantua. He had refused -to fly to Vienna or take refuge on Austrian territory. He wished to -remain amongst his people, perhaps with a vain hope of once more -attempting to accomplish Tyrol's freedom. - -It is with regret that most travellers leave Hofer's old dwelling. The -whole Passeier Valley is, of course, teeming with historic memories, -of the gallant doings of the patriot and his companions. Near Schloss -Tyrol itself was fought one of the most notable engagements, and a -victory won when the French, driven from their position on the -Küchelberg, were surrounded by the peasant forces; whilst just outside -Meran another skirmish took place, as a result of which the French -troops were forced to evacuate the town. - -[Sidenote: SUNNY BOZEN] - -From Meran to Bozen by rail is rather less than twenty miles, and -about the same distance by the road, which runs through the valley of -the Etsch, or Adige, and in places along the lower slopes of the -hills. It is a picturesque journey by either, and for cycling quite -delightful. One crosses the Talfer just before reaching Bozen, which -lies in a wide basin at the junction of the valley of the Etsch, with -the smaller but picturesque Sarnthal, surrounded by great reddish -brown crags and precipices of the porphyry mountains on which the -semi-tropical cactus grows, and one gets sombre groups of cypresses, -and here and there vineyards, and pine-clad crags. The town is a -strange mixture of the German elements of Tyrol and the Italian. Its -architecture, too, is "an admixture of that of north Italy and South -Germany, here and there transfused so that it preserves -characteristics of both." It is perhaps for this very reason a town of -great charm, and one of considerable beauty. Its surroundings, which -include the famous Rosengarten, and many beautiful little valleys and -gorges present attractions for a longer stay than one at first -contemplates. - -It is, moreover, one of the busiest (Bozen people claim that it is -_the_ busiest) towns in Tyrol, with a population going on towards -20,000, including its outskirts, yet it possesses some most delightful -gardens. - -Seen from almost any point of the lower slopes of the surrounding -hills, cactus, and vine-clad, and resembling in general luxuriance of -vegetation Italy rather than the Tyrol of but a little further north, -Bozen is charming. Below one is spread out a garden-like city, which -with all its bustling life yet looks more like a holiday resort than a -commercial town, with numbers of white-walled villas dotted amidst -green fields, vineyards and gardens, in the latter of which blossom -all the flowers one knows and loves, and many less common in England. - - [Illustration: A STREET IN BOZEN] - -One of the oldest towns in Tyrol, it stands practically on the site of -the Pons Drusi of Roman times. It has for "time out of mind" stood at -the cross roads where the Brenner and the Vintsgau routes divide. In -the past, Roman armies have passed through it, have crossed the -Talfer, or have lain encamped in the fields of its basin-like site. -And after them came the Merchants of the Middle Ages, trading -between civilized Italy and barbarian northern lands. Still later came -Emperors and pilgrims travelling to the "Eternal City," Crusaders -outward and homeward bound, roving singers, and hordes of free lances -and mercenaries. In a word, Bozen's past must have been a stirring -one, and the lives led by her citizens full of the colour of life and -gallant deeds. - -Anciently, too, the town was fought for and tossed hither and thither -by those powerful civil lords the Terriolis, Counts of Tyrol, and the -militant spiritual lords the Prince Bishops of Trent. For this reason, -and on account of many fires and "grievous o'erflowings of the Talfer -in past times," of the most ancient of all Bozens there are -comparatively few traces, though within the old town there are yet -traceable some interesting relics of the Middle Ages. - -In those long back times Bozen was a place of even greater commercial -importance than now. To its four annual markets or fairs people from -many lands came, and it became the depôt and centre of the great -transport trade by the two chief passes leading from Italy into Tyrol -and thence to Germany and Austria. As was not unnatural Bozen -merchants had a standing of their own, and were, according to one -authority, "not a little purse proud and exclusive in their dealings, -save when the latter meant that financial advantage would thereby -accrue to them." - -Although Bozen does not commend itself to most tourists from higher -latitudes for a lengthy stay, at least not in summer, as the basin in -which it lies, though making it delightfully sheltered in winter, -causes the town in the months of July and August to be decidedly hot -and rather enervating, there are several places in the immediate -neighbourhood to which one can flee for fresher air and cooler days. -The town has somewhat declined commercially from the high position it -once held, when the trade which flowed into Tyrol through it and -northwards out of it was chiefly along the high-roads and over the -passes; and thus through Bozen a very appreciable percentage of the -whole southern and Italian trade passed. But nevertheless it is still -a most flourishing and interesting town. - -A native writer says, on this subject, "Bozen ... has during the last -decade largely recovered the ground it had temporarily lost through -the making of railways, and the decline of transport along the -high-roads of the passes owing chiefly to the increased facilities -that have arisen for conveyance of merchandize by sea." Certainly one -is soon able, when in the town, to realize that in two branches of -trade at least Bozen occupies an undoubtedly high position in the -commercial world, those of wine, and fruit growing and exporting. The -hillsides are literally studded with vineyards and orchards, and Bozen -fruit has gained for itself an almost world-wide reputation. - -From the artistic side, too, Bozen claims the attention of all who are -interested in legendary lore, architecture, and antiquarian matters. -As one passes along its chief streets, or explores its byways in the -older part of it, one is delighted on almost every hand by vistas of -fine houses, shady and charming courtyards, buildings with strangely -constructed roofs, and fantastic gable ends, quaintly shaped bay -windows, vaulted colonnades, and here and there, stowed away where -least one would expect to find them, smaller courtyards with trellises -covered with vines, and perhaps an ancient well of rust-red marble to -give a finishing touch to the charming picture. - - [Illustration: A SOUTH TYROL FARMSTEAD] - -Numbers of artists pause at Bozen yearly on their way south into Italy -via Verona to study the rich treasures in the galleries of the cities -of Northern Italy, or to rest awhile on their return journey -northwards. In Bozen is plenty to paint and plenty to admire, and the -townsfolk are noted for the hospitality which still (notwithstanding -the great influx of tourists of late years) distinguishes the frank -and warm-hearted people of Tyrol in general. - -[Sidenote: BOZEN PARISH CHURCH] - -Chief amongst the buildings which will attract one's attention stands -the Pfarrkirche or Parish Church, which with its elegant tower and -open spire, over two hundred feet in height, forms a monument to the -artistic and constructive skill of its Swabian builder Johann Lutz in -the first years of the sixteenth century. The church is splendidly -situated at one corner of the fine open Waltherplatz, which is planted -with shady horse-chestnut trees, and, its roof of copper-green tiles -set in a pattern, contrasts admirably with its walls and spire of red -sandstone. In ancient times the building possessed two spires, both of -which were destroyed or so injured as to necessitate their pulling -down long before Lutz built his elegant structure. The church itself, -which contains a fine altar-piece by a pupil of Titian, and a -remarkable stone pulpit dating about the first decade of the sixteenth -century, is, in the main, fourteenth-century work, although it was not -actually finished until the third decade of the fifteenth, so some -authorities state. - -In the centre of the Johann Platz stands a fine though simply -conceived statue to Walther von der Vogelweide who was born about 1160 -at Lajen, near Waidbruck, in which the poet is shown standing clad in -a loose robe, with a biretta-like cap on his head and his hands -crossed whilst holding a lute. The statue is the work of the late -Heinrich Natter, one of the most famous of native sculptors, who was -also the artist of the famous Berg Isel Hofer Monument, of the very -finely conceived and well-executed statue of Ulrich Zwingli at Zurich, -and many other works. - -One of the most charming of Bozen streets is undoubtedly the -Laubengasse, which greatly resembles the main street of Meran, with -its shady arcades on either side under which the shops are situated, -and where one can promenade and do one's shopping protected from the -sun in summer and the rain in winter. The Karnergasse and Silbergasse -are interesting streets, as is also the Goethestrasse leading to the -fruit market, where one finds during market hours many interesting -types of peasants from the neighbouring villages as well as of the -townsfolk themselves. We saw some of the most gorgeous of kerchiefs -worn over the shoulders and crossed over the breasts of Bozen or Gries -fruit-sellers, which gave an air of quite southern colour and -brightness to the little Platz, in which oranges, almonds, melons, -figs, and even prickly pears were displayed for sale with all the -other fruits one might expect to find, including magnificent cherries -in the earlier part of the fruit season. - -The costumes of the Sarnthal with the big, broad-brimmed felt hats -worn by both men and women, and the gay "Kummerbunds" of the men worn -under short "Eton"-shaped jackets, are also seen in Bozen on festive -occasions. - -The Museum, in which there are many interesting exhibits, including -some old peasant costumes well worth the attention of artists, is an -imposing building or "block" in the Königin Elizabethstrasse, with -corner turrets and an imposing central tower. - -Of the more picturesque and older buildings none excels in charm the -Franciscan Monastery and Church in the Franziskanergasse. The -courtyard, shaded by trees which throw a diaper of shadow and sunlight -on the paving stones, with the delicately pretty porch leading into -the church, is a spot of sheer delight for the artist and the dreamer -of dreams; who there, amid the quietude of ancient things, can the -better conjure up visions of other days when Bozen streets rang to the -passing of armies, and men at arms, and in them were heard the cries -of mediæval merchants selling their wares drawn from north and south. -In the Franciscan Church there is a fine altar, and belonging to the -Monastery there are some beautiful cloisters. The library, too, should -not be overlooked by those interested in early books and similar -treasures. - -On the outskirts of pleasant Bozen, a fine view of which is obtained -from the Calvarienberg, there are many charming excursions. Towards -the west lies the finely situated Castle of Sigmundskron on a hill -between mountains overlooking the river in which there is good -fishing: the Mendel Pass, 4500 feet, ascended either on foot, by -carriage or by the mountain railway; Tisenser Mittelgebirge, studded -with most interesting ruins, and from whence one obtains extensive and -beautiful views of the surrounding mountain chains and of Meran. - -[Sidenote: CASTLE OF RUNKELSTEIN] - -Towards the north lies the deeply interesting Imperial Castle of -Runkelstein, which, dating from the middle half of the thirteenth -century, was extensively restored in 1884-88, and finally presented by -the Emperor of Austria to the town of Bozen. Situated upon and almost -entirely covering a huge mass of rock, it overlooks a bend of the -swiftly flowing Talfer, and occupies one of those commanding and -almost inaccessible positions beloved of builders in the Middle Ages. -The Castle, irrespective of its interests as an architectural survival -of a long past age, is much visited on account of the famous frescoes -which are contained in a building now known as the Summer House. As -one climbs up the steep and narrow path to the castle drawbridge one -can the better realize how safe the ancient owners (who were not above -raiding the neighbourhood, and of engaging in predatory warfare with -their neighbours) must have felt when they had once heard their -iron-studded door clang behind them, and seen the ancient drawbridge -swung up by its chains. - -Till the introduction of artillery, indeed, such a fastness would have -been practically impregnable. - -The frescoes to which we have referred are especially interesting from -the fact that they undoubtedly exhibit a very primitive art. At the -time they are supposed to have been painted, that is to say towards -the end of the fourteenth century, art even in its home, Italy, was -in a comparatively elementary and even grotesque stage of evolution. -The figures, which are black with a pea-green background, are, as an -American girl said, "Noah's arkical and too funny for words," though -we are bound to confess that the irreverence of the remark deeply -offended a worshipper of mediæval art who was of the party. The -paintings in the first room depict a German version of the story of -Tristan and Isolde, which would appear to diverge materially from the -one of Sir Thomas Malory, as set out in the "Morte d'Arthur." The main -story can, however, be easily followed. - -In the second chamber the frescoes, which were a very common form of -decoration at the period at which they were done and should not be -considered in the light of being of especial significance, depict a -complete version of the legendary story of Garel, following the -version of a Styrian[17] thirteenth century poet named Pleier. It is -generally considered that this Garel was founded upon or was identical -with the character of the Gareth or Beaumains of the "Morte d'Arthur," -although the evidence is not absolutely conclusive. To English people -the fine fresco of the famous Knights of the Round Table sitting in -company with King Arthur and Queen Guinevere will naturally be of the -greatest interest, although each of the quaint drawings to illustrate -the mediæval legend has an abiding fascination for all to whom the -past is of moment. - -Nor are the outside walls of this quaint pavilion left unadorned. On -them are single figures and others in groups of two and three -depicting well-known mediæval personages of historical and legendary -note: Tristan and Isolde; William of Orleans and Amelie; William, Duke -of Austria, and Aglei; pairs of lovers whose fame has outlived the -centuries; the three hero kings of ancient Christendom, Arthur of -England, the Emperor Charlemagne, and Godfrey de Bouillon. Amongst the -large number of figures here depicted may also be seen other groups -of three comprising celebrated knights, dwarfs, giants, and other -real, mythical, or legendary characters; a gallery of portraits which -has probably no equal in any other castle in the world. The story of -the deeds of the characters thus immortalized would fill many volumes, -and provide some of the most romantic and interesting reading -imaginable. - - [Illustration: ST. CYPRIAN AND THE PEAKS OF THE ROSENGARTEN] - -One quits the historic spot with a sense of the greatness of the past -as well as with a lingering regret that nothing after all can -adequately conjure up for one the stirring scenes, strenuous and -vividly "coloured" life, romance and chivalry, that the walls and -rooms of Runkelstein must have witnessed. - -In an easterly direction from Bozen lies the Eggenthal and its famous -waterfall. The road through the former is one of great picturesqueness -and grandeur--along the hillsides, across high bridges, and through -gorge-like rock cuttings, which to be fully appreciated cannot be -travelled better than a-foot. In the same direction, too, lies the -beautiful Karrersee, surrounded by its belt of sombre pines above -whose feathery tops shine the rocky peaks and snow-clad summits of the -Dolomite giants. - -[Sidenote: THE ROSENGARTEN] - -From Bozen, too, the famous Rosengarten, which lies to the east of the -town, should be visited. But it is not a garden of roses after all, -but a collection of stupendous and rocky peaks which blush red at -sunset. Those who expect flowers other than alpen rosen, gentian, and -the like, will be disappointed, as was the young lady who undertook -the excursion in the hope of seeing roses galore such as one may find -in the "attar" districts of the Balkan Provinces and especially in -Bulgaria. - -But if from Bozen one looks merely for the rosy hue to tint the -skyward-piercing pinnacles of rock, which have been poetically called -the "Rosengarten," or rambles in the picturesque and beautiful valleys -and tiny defiles at their feet, one will not be disappointed. And the -"roses," like other similar phenomena, are in a sense a weather glass; -the deeper the red they glow the finer the ensuing day. At first a -plum-hued twilight, such as one gets in the Maloja valley, seems to -fall down out of the sky, and then the mountain peaks commence to -receive their baptism of crimson. Then at last, as the sun sinks -behind the interposing Guntschna Berg, only the highest peaks continue -for a short time longer to glow with increasing, and then fading, -depth of colour, till at length the plum-bloom shadows conquer the -"roses" and the cool twilight comes. - -The origin of the descriptive phrase "the Rosengarten" is (so far as -we have been able to discover) lost in the mists of antiquity. But -there is a rather pretty legend concerning the Garden itself. Long ago -(the story tells us), when men were perhaps happier and certainly less -sophisticated and cynical than they are now, and believed in fairies, -gnomes, and magic, there lived a dwarf named Laurin or Laurenz -reigning over the other dwarfs, who inhabited a country in the centre -of the Schlern. By some means or other this dwarf managed to see and -fall in love with the beautiful, golden-haired sister of a retainer of -Dietrich of Bern, in Switzerland. After having seized her he bore her -to his palace of crystal in the interior of the mountains, and there -kept her prisoner. Soon, however, the brave and gallant knight -Dietrich, and his squire, who was named Dietlieb, determined to rescue -the abducted maiden, and for this purpose they came up from Italy -where they were at the time, and finding an opening entered the -Schlern, and after a fierce fight succeeded in conquering the dwarf, -notwithstanding the fact that of course the latter was assisted by a -magician. Laurin was not, however, killed, but spared by Dietrich at -the request of Dietlieb. It was unfortunate clemency, however, as -Laurin, professing himself grateful and offering them refreshment -after their labours and fight, gave them drugged wine, so that when -they awoke they discovered that they had been bound and cast into a -dungeon of the dwarf's castle. From this predicament they were happily -freed by Dietlieb's sister, Simild, and after another fierce encounter -with the dwarfs they defeated them, and trod the famous Rosengarten -roses underfoot, their places being taken by those that bloom at -sunset upon the peaks above the site of Laurin's mythical palace. - -That, at all events, is the story we have been told, and though the -Rosengarten and its miniature valleys are beautiful enough for real -roses to have their home there, none grow there now save figurative -ones caused by the sunset light. - -The Rosengarten is a fine centre for mountain ascents, and the famous -Vajolett towers and other rocky pinnacles present unfailing -attractions to the adventurous rock climber, even though nowadays -there can be very few "virgin" peaks or pinnacles to scale. - -From the Rosengarten itself as well as from Bozen one can witness the -blooming of the roses, and the really wonderful and entrancing play of -colour, light and shadow over the stupendous peaks which forms an -unforgettable experience when seen during the late afternoon of a -summer day and onwards till twilight comes to gradually throw its blue -and mystic mantle over the valleys and the mountain summits. - -[Sidenote: KLAUSEN] - -North of Bozen, prettily situated by the banks of the Adige, and some -one thousand seven hundred feet above sea-level, stands the little, -though somewhat important, town of Klausen, with its long, narrow -street following the configuration of the gorge in which most of the -houses lie, dominated by the great Benedictine monastery of Säben -perched upon a steep vine-clad promontory overlooking the town and -river, and six hundred feet above it. A castle till the end of the -seventeenth century, the convent was attacked by the French in 1809, -and from all accounts the nuns were not respected, for upon the walls -of one of the towers on the hill is a painted crucifix, which the -people of Klausen say was placed there in memory of one of the nuns -who, pursued by the soldiery, jumped to her death over the -battlements. The first impression of Klausen is that of cleanliness, -for the tall houses strike one in the brilliant sunshine of a summer -day as very white, though most of them are relieved by patches of -vivid green, where window shutters hang upon the walls or keep the -sunshine from the windows. Klausen folk are fond of flowers, too, for -many hang trailing from balconies; pink and red geraniums, a variety -of clematis, and bunches of ruby-coloured valerian, and tufts of -yellow and orange nasturtiums. There are generally many monks about -the streets, too; sombre-looking figures in rough frieze habits, who -look at the stranger with mild curiosity, and then pass on their -silent way up the hillside, or through the one long, narrow street -which runs between the mountain side and the rushing river. Klausen -women bore a brave part in Hofer's struggle against the French and -Bavarians, and dressed in their husbands' and brothers' clothes gave -material aid in driving back the French through the pass in 1797. - -There is not much to see in Klausen itself, but as a typical southern -Tyrolese village it is interesting. Picturesque it certainly also is, -set amid crags and rocks of purple porphyry, whose bases and lower -slopes are beautified by the greenery of many vineyards, and half -encircled by the rushing Eisack. Near by is the famous Castle -Trostburg, romantically beautiful with grey walls and red-tiled roof -perched high above the pine forest which clothes the steep sides of -the rocky spur upon which it stands, and with a patch of vineyard -clinging to the wall of its upper square and solid-looking keep. The -climb up to it is a steep one, but the view one obtains into the -Grödener Thal and of the surrounding heights well repays one. - -[Sidenote: OSWALD v. WOLKENSTEIN] - -The castle is one of the comparatively few still remaining in the -possession of the family with whose history it has for many centuries -been identified. The Counts of Wolkenstein date their occupation from -the twelfth century, and one of the most famous of the line was that -Oswald born at Castle Trostburg in 1367, or about, whose romantic -adventures might form the basis or plot of half a dozen historical -novels. As a Minnesinger he set out early in life upon his travels in -a gallant and adventurous age; devoted, one must imagine, to the -service and adoration of the fair sex, as were supposed to be -Minnesingers in general. Like many another adventure-loving lad, he -ran away from his ancestral home, light of heart and equally light of -purse, to wander through the world singing his way to fame and -fortune, or to failure and poverty, as the case might happen. - -He appears in the first instance to have attached himself to the suite -of one of a party of Tyrolese nobles under Duke Albrecht III., of -Austria, who were bent upon a filibustering expedition into Lithuania, -a district then lying between Poland and Courland. Afterwards he -wandered far and wide over the world, visiting in turn Russia, -England, Spain, France, and then sailing for the East, and travelling -through Asia Minor and Persia. He seems, from contemporary and other -accounts, to have been "everything by turns, and nothing long," except -that he probably always kept up his "minnesinging." He certainly was -page, soldier, sailor, and sea-cook; and for all one can tell these -were but the chief occupation of many he followed during his wandering -and adventurous life. At all events he appears to have acted at times -as tutor, turning the half score of languages he had picked up to good -and practical account. Amongst his more knightly adventures were -campaigns against the English in the service of the Earl of -Douglas--he was probably present on August 10, 1388, at the famous -battle of Otterburn (Chevy Chase)--previously against the Swedes in -Denmark in the service of Queen Margaret, who in 1397 united the -kingdoms of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden together. - -Among his more peaceful victories and doings was the favour which he -found in the eyes of the Queen of Aragon, who appears to have not only -admired his poetic gifts, but to have loaded him with personal -favours, caresses, and presents of jewelry. - -For several years after his visit to Spain he wandered about, and then -at last (like the prodigal son) set his face towards Tyrol. No one -recognized him, and he appears to have fallen under the spell of the -daughter of a neighbouring knight, who, however, would not consent to -marry him unless he would first obtain his knighthood by becoming a -Crusader. - -Deeply in love with the fair Sabina and not doubting her sincerity, -Von Wolkenstein took ship for Palestine, and in due course attained -the coveted distinction by gallant conduct in battle, in consequence -of which he attracted the attention and gained the personal friendship -of Sigismund of Hungary. - -Alas! for his hopes. On returning to Tyrol covered with glory, and a -"true knight," he did so only to find the fickle and deceitful Sabina -married to another. In addition to this he was only just in time to -see his father die. As a younger son he inherited the castles of -Castelruth and Hauenstein, Trostburg and its lands descending to his -elder brother. - -[Sidenote: A KNIGHT'S ADVENTURES] - -His roving disposition was not likely to be stayed now that he had -lost both his intended wife and his father, so he once more set out on -his travels, this time in the retinue of his friend Sigismund, in -whose company he visited several countries. For several years he -wandered through western Europe and as far south-east as Egypt, where -he appears to have been received with much honour. Once more back in -Tyrol in 1405, he became involved in the political upheavals which -were caused by the drastic measures of reform instituted by Duke -Frederick of the Empty Purse, against which the Tyrolese nobles -fiercely rebelled. The ex-Minnesinger took the part of the latter, -and in consequence drew down upon himself Frederick's vengeance. The -latter burned his two castles, and compelled Von Wolkenstein to flee -for his life to the protection of a relative who was the owner of the -castle of Greifenstein, which is situated on an inaccessible pinnacle -of rock between Bozen and Meran. Duke Frederick and his forces hotly -besieged the castle, but failed to reduce it; and although Oswald was -severely wounded and lost the sight of one eye he escaped, and a -little later joined an expedition against the Moors in the train of -John I., King of Portugal. During the severe fighting which took -place, and at the capture of Ceuta in 1415, he appears to have so -greatly distinguished himself that, we are told, "his fame was such -that the troubadours enshrined his deeds in their songs." - -Ultimately, he came to his own in Tyrol owing to an act of the Council -of Constance in Baden, which not only condemned John Huss--amongst -many ecclesiastical enactments--to be burned, but also ordered that -Duke Frederick, now an outlaw, who had burned Oswald von Wolkenstein's -castles, should rebuild them, and restore to the knight all the -property that he and his followers had seized. It is not easy, -however, to comprehend how an outlaw who was fleeing from one place to -another in fear of his life was to accomplish these things, nor how -property taken by the soldiery years before, and probably long ago -converted into cash or other uses, could be given up and restored. - -We are told, however, that after visiting France in Sigismund's train -Oswald returned to his favourite castle of Hauenstein, the ruins of -which nowadays are so lost in the vast pine forest which surrounds -them as to be almost undiscoverable. - -Then Sabina, his old love, once more comes upon the scene, this time -as the claimant of the castle on account, so she alleged, of an -unrepaid loan made by her grandfather to the Wolkensteins. She -invited her old suitor Oswald to join her in a pilgrimage to some -shrine for old acquaintance sake; and when he came to her, -unsuspecting and unarmed, she promptly had him seized, thrown into a -dungeon, and there kept him a prisoner in chains. He lay in -treacherous Sabina's castle until by chance Sigismund, hearing of his -parlous state, intervened on his friend's behalf, and Oswald von -Wolkenstein was set free. He was, however, so maimed by rheumatism and -the fetters which had galled him that he ever afterwards went lame. - -Once more he was cast into prison, this time by Duke Frederick's -machinations, and lay in a horrible underground and tunnel-like cell -in Vellenberg not far from Innsbruck. He had married in 1417 Margaret, -a daughter of the house of Schwangau, after a long period of -betrothal, and to her he was deeply attached. On his second release, -after three years' incarceration, he returned to Hauenstein to find -his wife dead, and his home fallen into disrepair from neglect. - -A few years later we find him, unconquered in spirit though broken in -body, at Rome to attend the coronation of his friend Sigismund, who -but a year or two later was driven from the throne. In 1435 Oswald -once more, as a man of fifty-eight, returned to forest-enshrouded -Hauenstein, where he died nine years afterwards, never having again -left it. - -Of course, the castle is haunted by the spirit of this unhappy and -adventurous knight and Minnesinger, and there is still this belief -amongst the peasantry of Seis and the neighbourhood round about. And -the few who have ever ventured near the ruined pile after sundown aver -that those who do are sure to hear the ancient Minnesinger chanting a -dirge-like lay, accompanying himself upon his lute. But if this be so -Oswald's spirit has wandered far from his body, for his remains repose -at Neustift near Brixen. - -He was not only one of the most picturesque and romantic figures of -the band of Minnesingers who were so numerous during the Middle Ages, -but also in a measure an historical figure. By some authorities he is -considered to be the last of these strange wandering minstrel -adventurers. Probably it would be more correct to speak of him as the -last really great Tyrolese "Minnesinger;" but, whichever estimate be -right, his place on the roll of fame relating to the deeds and songs -of these is assured by reason of his gallantries, misfortunes, and -adventurous and knightly doings. - -[Sidenote: ST. ULRICH] - -On the way to Klausen one is wise to make a diversion down the narrow -but picturesque Grödener Thal to St. Ulrich, which charming village, -situated in a basin and almost surrounded by thickly wooded slopes, -and beyond them stupendous and rocky peaks with the serrated pinnacles -of the Langkofel in the background, is the centre of the Toy industry -of Tyrol and an increasingly popular tourist resort. The road is a -steeply ascending one, and one comes upon the first glimpse of the -village, which stands midway down the valley between Waidbruck and -Wolkenstein, quite suddenly. One's first impression is of a typical -Tyrolese village of considerable size, its white--very white--houses -standing out clear cut and prominently against the background of -dark-green pines, and the lighter green of the valley fields in which -they are, many of them, set. Of late years the clean-looking cottages -of the villagers, the balconies of which are as often as not hung with -delightful flowers, have been supplemented by good and large hotels, -villas, and other modern up-to-date tourist accommodation. But, -nevertheless, St. Ulrich is not yet spoiled, and there are still many -of the almost mahogany-coloured barns and storehouses left, with their -picturesque balconies running right round them, on which the grain and -herbs are placed to dry, wood to season, and other stores are kept, -forming so sharp a contrast to the hotels and white houses. - -Although we imagine St. Ulrich's chief attraction is its quaint and -interesting toy-making industry, there are many others including most -beautiful scenery, and the numberless excursions which can be made -from it. In winter time, to quote the quaint phraseology and spelling -of a local guide-book, it has "a very strange charme for the friends -of Tobogganing and Ski-sport has the valley in the always mild and -snowy winter-time." And regarding the accommodation offered, the same -luminous authority goes on to say there are "very comfortable stabled -hotels and land-houses extraordinary fit as a summerset for residence, -likewise for a start place for numerous high-parties to the -Dolomites." - -But let us give a brief description of the Toy Industry, which chiefly -serves to differentiate the village from all others in Southern Tyrol. - -St. Ulrich's wares are ultimately sent all over the world, and whether -in New York, London, Paris, Berlin, Vienna, or Rome one is almost sure -to find amongst the toys, carved figures of saints, crucifixes, -artists' "lay figures," chalets, and other articles some examples of -work from this famous valley of wood carvers. The fact that nearly -3000, or about three out of every five, of the inhabitants are engaged -more or less directly in the work will give some idea of its -magnitude. - -The carving industry at St. Ulrich is supposed to date from about the -commencement of the seventeenth century, and there are some figures of -the Virgin and Saints still extant in churches of the district bearing -dates of that period, and other images of apparently much earlier -date, which show that even in those remote times the carvers of St. -Ulrich and the Grödener Thal possessed considerable skill and -reputation. It was, however, one Johann von Metz who at the -commencement of the eighteenth century appears to not only have raised -the standard of the work of carving to greater perfection, but also to -have organized and extended the sphere of the trade itself. - -In the years which immediately followed, the peasants were in the -habit of themselves setting out into other lands with stocks of their -work for sale; and some at least, according to tradition, found their -way to England, and even across the Atlantic, where they abandoned the -active work of carving for that of establishing trading depôts in -connection with St. Ulrich, and thus they distributed the work done in -the far-off and almost then unknown Grödener Thal throughout the -commercial world. - -Nowadays to sally forth with their stock-in-trade on their backs or in -a cart is no longer the practice of the workers. The greater number -are employed by firms which act as wholesale distributing agencies for -them, to whom they take their weekly output of work. Most of the -villages of the valley are employed in the carving industry; St. -Christina, for example, making a speciality of "lay figures" and hobby -horses. - -Not only are most of the men of the villages in the Grödener Thal thus -employed, but also many of the women and children. And it is no -uncommon sight to see quite mites cutting away at blocks of the softer -kinds of wood by the roadside or on the doorsteps of the cottages; and -sometimes one meets the women on their way down from the woods or -upper pastures with their barrel-like receptacles upon their backs, -roughly shaping some article which will be finished off when they get -home. - -[Sidenote: "TOY LAND"] - -Some of the carving done is really good, but it cannot be said to be -cheap. One cannot find bargains in St. Ulrich, or, for the matter of -that, in any of the villages of "Toy Land." The demand is too great, -and the means of distribution too well organized for the peasants to -care in the least whether one purchases a "bit" or not. There are -practically no shops where carving is sold by the workers themselves, -as nearly all are employed under contract or otherwise by wholesale -dealers. But the tourist can generally visit one or other of the large -_ateliers_, where, in particular, the carving of images and more -elaborate articles is done under the superintendence of artists. It -is an experience and a sight well worth spending an hour or two over. -In that time, by watching several figures at various stages -approaching completion, one can obtain a very good and clear idea of -the different transformations which the rough-hewn block undergoes ere -it assumes its final shape of a Virgin, St. Joseph, St. Antony, or St. -Christopher. Many of these statues and smaller figures are sent to a -different workshop for painting and gilding; and it is chiefly in the -white chalets on the mountain side that the toys and smaller articles -are made. - -The goods are stored principally in the larger houses of the villages. -One of the chief depôts bears the name of the man who developed the -industry, whilst other well-known merchants are Insam, Purger, and -Prinoth. In these warehouses one sees shelf upon shelf laden with -toys, figures, dolls, and other carved work; miniature waggons, -monkeys on sticks, hobby horses painted in gay and let us add entirely -"unnatural" colours, with flaming red, jet black, or piebald manes. -The toys are of all prices, just as they are of many sizes and -qualities as regards "finish;" hobby horses costing from half-a-krone -to several florins each; dolls ranging in price from a halfpenny and -even less to five or six kronen. Figures intended to form the contents -of Noah's arks are there by the bushel, the cheaper kind bearing, it -must be admitted, but faint and partial resemblance to the animals -they are intended to represent; the better kinds being excellent -miniatures of lions, elephants, tigers, giraffes, bears (especially -good these), and the hundred and one smaller animals and insects of -the patriarch's great family party; and accompanying all the -delightful smell of freshly cut pine and other woods in the warehouses -given over to unpainted things, and the somewhat overpowering smell of -new paint in the others. - -Some of the dolls, more especially those which have Tyrolese costumes -represented in wood, need great care in carving; and others are -swiftly done, some by elementary machinery. The best wood used is the -_pinus cembra_, or Swiss pine, which originally grew thickly on the -sides of the mountains, but has now largely to be imported owing to -the fact that whilst the trees have been cut down by the thousand, -scant provision appears to have been made for the future by planting -others. There is, however, plenty of the wood still left in the -immediate neighbourhood. - -Nowadays at St. Ulrich there is an excellent Imperial School of -Drawing, and modelling, and there would appear to be a distinct -advance of recent years in the carving (of animals and figures -especially) in consequence of the teaching given, though in their main -characteristics the animals and small figures produced have not much -varied from the ancient types. - -The church of St. Ulrich, although comparatively modern, dating only -from quite the end of the eighteenth century, has a beautifully -adorned interior; rather ornate and highly coloured perhaps, but -interesting and typical. There is also in it a Mater Dolorosa by -Maroder, and in the sacristy a fine marble Madonna by a pupil of -Canova, Andrea Colli. The restored chapel of St. Anthony is also worth -seeing, as it possesses a remarkably fine altar-piece, the work of -Deschwanden. - -[Sidenote: CONCERNING DIALECT] - -There is a distinct dialect in the villages of the Grödener Thal, -locally known as Ladin, which is said by philologists to be directly -derived from the Latin tongue, and to date from the days of the Roman -occupation. It is certainly so different from the dialects of modern -Italy that it is almost impossible for the stranger, even though -well-versed in those, to understand it. In some points it may be said -to resemble the Grisons Romanche, and Romanese of the Engadine; but -the parallel is not at all a close one, and needs several distinct -qualifications. Although a deeply interesting one to philologists, it -is impossible to deal with the question at all fully here. Certainly -one would be inclined to think that this peculiar dialect has an -Etruscan origin, for it is well-known that considerable remains of -that people have from time to time been unearthed in the Grödener -Thal, and, indeed, in the immediate neighbourhood of St. Ulrich -itself. - -St. Ulrich is charming in winter, when the village is half-buried in -snow, and the lower slopes of the environing mountains provide -excellent toboggan "runs," and ski-ing grounds. How different the -little place appears under these conditions from the sunny spot set -amid green fields and pleasant pastures that it is in summer, only -those who have seen it under both conditions can easily realize. And -truly (as the local guide we have before quoted says) "in winter there -are many grateful excursions for the high-flying parties, and swift -ski-ing." By "high-flying parties" one should doubtless understand -those who wish to ascend the higher slopes. - -Costume still survives at St. Ulrich and in the Grödener Thal, where -(although less worn than even a decade ago) one still meets with women -wearing the old style dress, with huge broad-brimmed felt hats trimmed -with wide ribbons, and having short "streamers" down behind, or the -still quainter high "sugar-loaf" hats, shaped almost like those of -dancing dervishes, fitting down over the ears and allowing only the -least suspicion of the forehead to remain visible. Wide linen collars, -almost large enough to be called capes, with either plain edges or -scalloped, and handsome aprons of silk, brocade, or other materials; -wide skirts and a profusion of ribbons go to make up a costume which -is always picturesque and often actually handsome. - -From Klausen, to which one returns on one's way northward, one -proceeds to Brixen, charmingly situated in the valley of the Eisack, -amid green fields, and pastures, and afforested slopes. The twin -towers of the Cathedral in the centre of the picture at once catches -the eye from whatever point one approaches the town. - - [Illustration: SUMMER TIME NEAR ST. ULRICH, GRÖDENER THAL] - -Brixen, though little more in size and population than a large -village, is yet one of the most interesting places in Southern Tyrol. -It is not only historically and architecturally important, but is a -pleasant place from which to explore the beauties of the neighbouring -Puster Thal, Valser Thal, and Lusen Thal if only one's time permits. -Anciently it was one of the most notable towns in Southern Tyrol, for -it was during nearly a thousand years, and, in fact, until 1703, the -capital of an ecclesiastical principality, with a long line of -distinguished bishops, some of them almost as much noted for their -militant as their spiritual qualities. It is still the seat of a -bishopric, and in the town are many evidences of its past -ecclesiastical importance and splendour. - -Artists find much in Brixen to attract them, as do also students of -architecture, and although the valley is wider than in some similar -resorts, making mountain ascents longer before one can reach the -higher peaks, there are many excursions to be made, and interesting -villages to be visited. That it is an attractive town its many -visitors make evident, and in the pleasant gardens, which seem always -cool even on the hottest summer day, situated between the Eisack and -the smaller Rienz, one meets not only with interesting Brixen types -(sometimes peasants in costume), but also most of the foreign visitors -who may be staying in the place. - -[Sidenote: BRIXEN CATHEDRAL] - -The Cathedral, dating from the fifteenth century, is a handsome and -even striking building, with its lofty twin towers, and their -beautifully "weathered" copper domes. These are the oldest parts, most -of the building itself having been restored and rebuilt as recently as -the middle half of the eighteenth century. There are some extremely -beautiful and interesting cloisters, with numerous frescoes on the -groined roof, and some quaint mural tablets and tombstones. The view -from the cloisters upon a sunny day across the courtyard is one of -great charm in its play of light and shade, tempting one to linger in -their hoary coolness and solitude. There is also an ancient chapel of -St. John, dating from the eleventh century, containing some good -frescoes of the thirteenth to fifteenth centuries. The tombstone of -the famous Oswald von Wolkenstein is in the inner courtyard, which -lies between the Cathedral and the Church of St. Michel, depicting the -knightly minnesinger in armour with lance, and pennon, and lyre. Near -this is also an interesting copper relief, depicting the scene of the -Resurrection, placed there as a memorial of a noted local coppersmith -named Hans Kessler, who lived in the first half of the seventeenth -century. - -One reaches the Bishop's Palace by several interesting streets, in -which some of the more ancient houses are to be found. There is a -charming courtyard with colonnades, and a delightful garden, peaceful -and full of flowers and the sentiment of other days. And here, -fortunately, the traveller can gain admission for half an hour's -restful contemplation of its beauty, and perhaps the study of some of -the historical events which the town has witnessed. - -From Brixen to Sterzing one traverses the widening, narrowing, and -again widening valley of the Eisack. Past Spinges, with its memories -of the fierce battle in 1797, when General Joubert was marching -through the Puster Thal to make a junction with Napoleon. His advance -was not, however, permitted unchecked. The inhabitants of Spinges -might not be many, but they were Tyrolese. It happened, too, that a -few companies of the Landsturm were in the neighbourhood, and so these -and the men of Spinges marched out to meet Joubert's immensely -superior force. The French troops were armed with bayonets as well as -guns, and the barrier they made was found unpierceable by the brave -but badly armed patriots. But the opportunity or need produced the man -as it had done rather more than four centuries before in Switzerland -when Arnold von Winkelried gathered the Austrian spears into his bosom -at Sempach. In this case it was one Anton Reinisch, of Volders, who -"played the man," and heroically leapt, scythe in hand, amongst the -French bayonets, a score of which pierced his body, and thus, hewing -right and left ere he fell, carved a way for his comrades, and enabled -them to break up the French lines. - -[Sidenote: THE MAID OF SPINGES] - -But Spinges will be celebrated still more in romance, as it has been -in history, by the act of that anonymous maiden "the Maid of Spinges," -who, during the fight around the church of the village, mounted in -company with the men the wall of the churchyard, and, armed with a hay -fork, helped, by her strong arms as well as her example, to -successfully repel three fierce attacks of the French soldiery. -Unknown[18] by name, yet the fame of her courageous act, typical as it -was of those of many others of her sex during the long and fierce -struggle waged by the Tyrolese against the invaders of their beloved -land, has descended through generations. - -On the other side of the valley to Spinges is Franzenfeste at the -mouth of the defile known as the Brixener Klause. Few people stop at -Franzenfeste, we imagine. To ramble on the hillsides would be an act -of foolhardiness, for they are honeycombed with forts. It is a great -strategic position, commanding the Brenner and the entrance to the -Puster Thal; and investigation of the hillsides and neighbourhood, it -is needless to say, is not encouraged by the Austrian Government. It -is possible in the future that the spot which saw much fighting in -1797 and 1809 will again be the scene of military operations, and a -struggle not less fierce, and far more bloody. Who knows? - -[Sidenote: STERZING AND MATREI] - -Sterzing, with its sunny main street of which a most charming vista is -got as one enters the town through the ancient gateway on the Brenner -road, and shady arcades which remind one of the "unter den Lauben" of -Meran, stands on the site of a Roman settlement, Vipitenum. It is -situated at the junction of three beautiful valleys, the Ridnaun Thal, -Pflersch Thal, Pfitscher Thal, in a broad basin-like depression, -encircled by shapely mountain slopes, and on the right bank of the -Eisack. Though nowadays possessing a population of less than 3000, -Sterzing at once strikes one as having an air of importance and -prosperity, hardly in keeping with its small size. Formerly, however, -the town was an important mining centre, and the larger of its quaint -and picturesque balconied and bay-windowed houses owe their origin to -the wealthier inhabitants of the past. Marble quarrying and polishing -is still carried on somewhat extensively, and doubtless helps to -retain an air of commercial life and industry in the quaint old place. - -Sterzing is wonderfully decorative and compact in general effect; and -there are a surprising number of fine and interesting buildings to be -seen in its narrow old-time streets. The Rathaus, with its striking -bow windows, is of late Gothic architecture, and in it is a fine -fifteenth-century altar-piece, and some interesting and well-executed -wood carvings. This building, now used by the town officials and -magistrates, was formerly doubtless a mansion of a wealthy merchant. -In it is one of the best preserved specimens of a Gothic ceiling, -dating from about the middle of the fifteenth century, that we have -seen in Tyrol in any private house of similar size. - -The church has been extensively, but on the whole well restored. It -dates from the sixteenth century, and has a Gothic choir of note, and -nave and aisles restored in the Rococo style, the ceiling paintings of -which are by Adam Mölckh. The general effect of the interior is good, -and the church has some interesting architectural details. - -The decline of Sterzing is attributable to the same cause as that of -many other townlets and villages upon the old post-roads, and the -roads over the passes which have gradually become less and less used -as railroads have multiplied. But, in the case of Sterzing, its -gradual descent from the position of importance it once occupied, -traces of which are found in the numerous fine houses still standing, -was undoubtedly more owing to the exhaustion or abandonment of the -mining industry than to the coming of the railway which so seriously -affected the road traffic of the Brenner Pass. - -Near Sterzing, it should be remembered, Hofer and his peasant forces -fought the first big engagement of the struggle in 1809, which ended -in the defeat of the Bavarians, who were driven back across the -Brenner, Hofer having crossed the Jaufen from his home at St. Martin -in the Passeier Valley. - -Matrei, or, as it is also called, Deutsch-Matrei, is the only place of -any size or importance which we have not already described on the line -between Sterzing and Innsbruck, or along the Brenner road. The little -town is charmingly situated, and like others of similar character and -altitude (it lies nearly 3300 feet above sea-level), is becoming more -and more resorted to by tourists and travellers upon the Brenner -route. The Castle of Trautson, belonging to Prince Auersperg, stands -on the hillside above it. Sterzing forms a fine centre for ascents and -excursions, and there is a most interesting pilgrimage church on the -north-eastern flank of the Waldrast Spitze dedicated to the Virgin, -and known by the name of the mountain; it dates from the middle of the -fifteenth century. Its foundation was in consequence of a peasant's -dream, in which he was directed to go to the woods, lie down and rest, -and there he should be told what to do. When he had done this the -Virgin appeared to him, and bade him build a chapel on the spot over -an image of her which had miraculously appeared no one knew how some -years before. To this chapel was given the name of Maria Waldrast -(Wood's rest), and although the monastery, which was built on the -spot more than a century and a half later, in 1624, is now but a ruin, -the pilgrimage is even nowadays made by the devout to the church which -is so beautifully situated more than 5300 feet above sea-level. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[16] For further details of the castle's history, see Prokop's -interesting account.--C. H. - -[17] Some authorities state Pleier was from Salzburg or the -Salzkammergut. - -[18] A Some authorities assert that her name was Katherina Lanz, and -that from about 1820 till her death in 1854 she lived as housekeeper -to the priest at St. Virglius near Rost, high up in the Enneberg -Valley.--C. H. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - - SOME TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF WALSCH-TYROL: TRENT, ITS HISTORY, - COUNCIL, AND BUILDINGS--ROVEREDO AND DANTE--ARCO--RIVA - - -Trent, which is easily reached from Bozen through the Etschland by the -Bozen-Verona line, which winds through some delightful scenery and -passes many a ruined castle perched high on inaccessible heights, is -not only a large town of upwards of 25,000 inhabitants, but was -anciently one of the wealthiest in Tyrol. It is generally supposed to -have been founded by the Etruscans, and both Pliny and Ptolemy make -mention of it; but whoever designed Trent seized upon a beautiful -situation, and the builders have left behind them in the quaint town, -broad streets, handsome palaces of dead and gone nobles, and a forest -of towers and spires, delightful survivals of mediæval days. -Surrounded by limestone crags, the city itself, notwithstanding its -Italian character and fine atmosphere, gives one at first sight an -impression of lack of colour which is not usually the case with -Italian towns. - -Regarding the foundation of the city and the origin of its name, there -is at least a local tradition that it was founded in the time of -Tarquinius Priscus, about B.C. 616, by a body of Etruscans led by -Rhaetius; and these founders, although so far removed from the sea, -instituted the worship of Neptune, from which circumstance the ancient -name Tridentum was derived. Be this as it may, the circumstance is -interesting, as in these Etruscans under the leadership of Rhaetius -one can perhaps discover the origin of the Rhaeti, who ultimately gave -so much trouble to the Empire of Rome. At any rate, Rhaetius gave his -name to the district in the immediate vicinity of Trent. The -interesting Castle Del Buon Consiglio, which forms so dominating a -feature of the town, and possesses a circular and lofty donjon of the -type of Guy's Tower at Warwick, with its fine Renaissance loggia in -the inner or fountain courtyard and several storied arcades in the -older, was once the residence of the Prince Bishops, but now used as -barracks. In it is preserved an ancient inscription relating to the -government of the town, which proves that the regulations and statutes -were very largely modelled upon those of Rome itself. - -Those who can do so should certainly endeavour to visit Trent during -the latter part of the month of June, not merely from the fact that -this month is charming by reason of the beauties of nature, the wealth -of tender new foliage and delightful climate, but also because on the -26th of the month falls the Festival of Saint Vigilius, the patron -saint of Trent, and the martyr missionary who anciently did much to -Christianize the country. At this _fête_ the ancient city, whose -by-ways and narrower streets are full of interest, picturesqueness, -and charm, is seen at its gayest and best. All the many churches are -crowded with worshippers, thousands of whom have flocked down from the -surrounding mountains and come in from the various villages of the -Etschland, bound first upon religious observances in honour of their -patron saint and afterwards to take part in the characteristic games -and amusements which give the city for the time being such a festive -and Bank Holiday air. In former days the more violent amusements were -often supplemented by the performance of religious dramas, somewhat on -the lines of the better known and more elaborate plays of -Ober-Ammergau and the Brixenthal, and also by the illumination of the -surrounding hills by huge bonfires, which are said to have had their -origin in the religious observances of even more remote times than -that of the Etruscan occupation. - -Saint Vigilius, who was born at Rome, eventually became the Bishop of -Trent, and ultimately suffered martyrdom during one of the many -persecutions which took place, and were similar in character to those -of the fourth century. - -The city during its early wars was several times sacked, and more than -once burnt by the Bavarian hordes which overran the country and even -at last reached the gates of Rome itself. Thus Trent came to be built -at various periods upon former foundations, and researches of recent -times have tended to show that, as was the case with Rome itself, the -comparatively modern Trent is built upon soil several feet above the -level of its first site. One Italian authority, indeed, states that -the streets of the original town lie some fourteen feet below the -level of those of the present. Traces of at least three distinct lines -of walls marking the growth of the city at various times have been -excavated, leading also to the discovery of many interesting relics of -Roman days, including tessellated pavements, portions of an -amphitheatre of considerable size, ornaments, household utensils, etc. - -The bishops still retain their title of Prince, but they lost their -power as territorial rulers at the time of the secularization which -took place throughout Tyrol, and also in the principality of Salzburg. - -[Sidenote: THE COUNCIL OF TRENT] - -Although this ancient city, which is characterized nowadays by a -cleanliness and order so often found wanting in Italian towns, has -undergone many vicissitudes and has been the scene of important -historical events, to the Trent folk of to-day and to many of the -visitors who come to it the chief events in connection with its -history will undoubtedly remain the sittings of the famous Council -which commenced in the year 1545. Many may wonder how it came about -that so comparatively small a town should have been chosen as the -meeting-place of a Conference intended to attempt the co-ordination of -the beliefs and doctrines and the regulation of ecclesiastical affairs -of the whole of the then Christian world. Probably the sole reason for -this selection was the geographical position of the city, which lay -then, as it does to-day, a frontier town, so to speak, between Italian -and German influences, and though situated on Austrian soil, yet -containing an Italian-speaking population. - -The Council opened on December 13, 1545, and continued its sittings -(with interruptions) until December 4, 1563, the last being the -twenty-fifth in number. The meetings of the Council took place at -various times during the reigns of three Popes, Paul III., Julius -III., and Pius IV., and amongst the enactments of the Council the -Canon of Scripture, including the Apocrypha, was confirmed, and the -Church named as its sole interpreter; that traditions were to be -considered as equal with Scripture, and the seven sacraments of -Baptism, Confirmation, the Lord's Supper, Penitence, extra-Unction, -Orders, and Matrimony were also confirmed; transubstantiation, -Purgatory indulgences, celibacy of the clergy, auricular confession, -and other matters were dealt with. - -The first sitting was held under Cardinal Del Monte, the papal legate, -who rose amidst the assembled prelates and representatives and asked -them whether it was their wish, "For the glory of God, the extirpation -of heresy, and the reformation of the clergy and people, and the -downfall of the enemy of the Christian name, to resolve and declare -that the Sacred General Tridentine Council should begin and was -begun?" The whole company, we are told, answered "Placet," a Te Deum -was sung, and it was agreed that the first sitting of the Council -should be held on the 7th of January. The sittings were continued at -various times without any untoward event till the year 1552, when -Maurice of Saxony invaded Tyrol, and although the Council was sitting, -most of its members fled the country after having re-enacted the -various decrees and ordinances which had been previously passed. - -Ten years later, what was to all intents and purposes another Council -met at Trent, and a solemn service was again held, at which Cardinal -Gonzaga was elected president. A quarrel seems to have arisen between -some of the archbishops and bishops and one of the French envoys. The -former did not agree to some of the terms of the proposition made by -the Archbishop of Reggio, whilst the latter raised an objection to the -Council being considered a continuation of the first Council. - -The building in which the Council sat has been stated at various times -to have been the Cathedral, in the Piazza del Duomo, but there seems -very little doubt now that the place of meeting was not there but in -the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, situated on the Piazza of the same -name. In it on the north wall of the Choir hangs a large picture -representing some three hundred of the various chief dignitaries as -they sat in the Council Chamber. The members numbered nearly a -thousand in all, and in addition to the cardinals, archbishops, -bishops, abbots, chiefs of religious orders, and representatives from -the University, there were also present ambassadors from the Emperor -of Germany, and from the Kings of France, Spain, and Portugal, from -the republic of Venice and Genoa, from Switzerland, and from the -German electors. - -There were at first serious disputes regarding the mode of conducting -the business of the Council: what subjects were to be brought up for -discussion, and which of those so brought up should have precedence. -The German prelates and representatives appear to have been favourable -to the discussion of subjects of a more practical nature, realizing as -they did that one of the chief causes of disruption and want of -unanimity in the Church was the presence of practical and easily -located abuses. They therefore strongly urged that the first work of -the Council should be of the nature of reforms affecting these -abuses. On the other hand, the Italian prelates and envoys were most -favourable to the discussion of matters of doctrine and ecclesiastical -observances. These differences of opinion were, however, ultimately -overcome by an agreement that for each session of the Council dealing -with dogma there should be one held to consider the question of -practical reforms. - -The first president, Cardinal Del Monte, frankly acknowledged that -many abuses had crept into the Church, and to prove the sincerity of -his reforming proposals voluntarily yielded up his pluralities of -office; and this example was followed by the Prince Bishop of Trent, -who offered to resign the See of Brixen. - -In 1547, owing to an epidemic then raging in Trent, the first session -was closed, and the next sitting took place at Bologna. Charles V., -who had been a very active promoter of the Council, objected to the -change of venue and insisted upon it being adjourned. It again sat in -1551 at Trent, and an interesting feature of the sitting was the -presence of Protestant delegates and envoys from Maurice, elector of -Saxony, and from the elector of Brandenburg. Queen Elizabeth declined -to send any representative, preferring to accept the decisions of an -English convocation. After transacting a considerable amount of -business the Council was adjourned, and did not again meet for a -period of eleven years. On that occasion many points came up for -discussion, and a considerable number of measures of practical reform -were agreed upon. One of the most important was the suppression of the -alms gatherers, men who were sent for the purpose from Rome to -different countries with power to sell indulgences. It was by this -means that a large amount of the money with which St. Peter's, Rome, -was built was obtained. - -[Sidenote: DECREES OF THE COUNCIL] - -Amongst other important matters decreed by the Council was that -prohibiting the sale, printing, or keeping of any books whatever on -sacred matters under pain of anathema and fine imposed by a canon of -the last Council of Lateran, unless first approved of by the -ordinary. It also provided that offenders should have their books -burnt; should pay a fine amounting to a hundred ducats; should be -suspended a year from the exercises of their trades; and goes on to -add that they should be visited with a sentence of excommunication; -and, finally, should their contumacy become worse, be so chastised by -their bishop by every means granted by the law that others might take -warning from them and not be tempted to follow their example. It was -also decreed that even those who lent forbidden books, which included -the writings of arch-heretics, such as Luther, Calvin, and others, -even though in MS., should be liable to the same penalties; and all -those who should have any such books in their possession, unless -confessing the author's name, should themselves be regarded as the -author. - -Cardinal Lorraine, who attended with fourteen bishops, three abbots, -and eighty learned doctors of divinity on behalf of King Charles IX. -of France, was charged with instructions from that monarch to entreat -the Council to concede the following reforms and benefits: that in -France the sacraments might be administered, the psalms sung, prayers -offered up, and the catechism taught in the language of the people; -and that the sacrament should be fully administered to the laity. Also -that some strenuous means should be taken to check the licentious -lives of the clergy; and that the Council should make any concessions -tending towards peace and the abatement of schism which did not -controvert or interfere with God's word. The French ambassadors also -asked for clear instructions concerning the doctrines governing the -uses of images, relics, and indulgences; and also they were instructed -to urge argument against exacting fees for the sacrament, benefices -without duties, and many other things which the more liberal minded -and progressive of the prelates regarded as grave abuses in the -Church. One astonishing objection which Renaud Ferrier, the then -President of the Parliament in Paris, in company with Lansac, raised -before the Council was to the dogma that the Pope's authority was -supreme, their contention being that the Council was above the Pope! - -As we have said, this important Council on religion came to an end in -December, 1563, when the President moved its dissolution. Before the -closing scene, the acts of the Council were finally agreed to and -signed, "the ambassadors also adding their names." Then the President -dismissed the members in the following words: "After having given this -to God, most reverend fathers, go ye in peace." To which all present -replied, "Amen." Then Cardinal Lorraine rose and called down the -blessing of the assembly upon the then reigning Pope, Pius IV., and -also upon his predecessors, Paul III. and Julius III. "By whose -authority," said the Cardinal, "this sacred Council was begun; to them -peace from the Lord and eternal glory and happiness in the light of -the Holy Saints." To which those present answered, "By their memory -ever held in sacred benediction." - -Then there were prayers for the reigning monarchs whose ambassadors -were present, for the holy oecumenical synod of Trent, whose faith -and decrees all present declared they would keep for ever. Then came -the final scene, when the Cardinal, standing in the midst of the vast -assembly, declared in a loud voice, "Anathema! anathema! to all -heretics!" To which there came the reply, "Anathema!" And thus ended -not only the Council of Trent, but also the last great general Council -of the Roman Catholic Church. - -[Sidenote: THE CHURCHES OF TRENT] - -The church of Santa Maria Maggiore, in which the Council held its -sittings--a rather plain red marble building, which, however, has a -fine Lombardian campanile--will always be one of the most interesting -churches amongst the many of Trent. Severe outside, the interior is -exceptionally ornate. The organ-loft, completed in 1534, twenty years -after the commencement of the church, is one of great beauty. -Designed by Vincenzo Vicentin, it has a white marble balustrading, the -supports of which are thickly encrusted with decorative work and -statuettes of delicately fine workmanship. In the church are also -several interesting and good pictures, amongst the number one -ascribed, though possibly incorrectly, to Tintoretto. - -There are one or two interesting traditional stories connected with -this church. The first relates to the beautiful organ, and runs as -follows: "So fine a tone and so esteemed was the work of the now--so -far as we have been able to ascertain--unknown organ builder, that the -Town Council are said to have determined to blind or maim him so that -it should be impossible for him to construct another instrument like -it for any other city. The unfortunate man, unable to get the -Councillors to give up their diabolical intention, asked as a last -favour to be allowed to play on the instrument he had made ere the -barbarous sentence was carried out. But as soon as he was in the -organ-loft he set to work and irreparably injured the vox humana stop -which he had invented, and which had been the greatest attraction of -the beautiful instrument; and thus he punished the Council who had -determined to reward his genius in such a terrible manner." - -The other legend is of the crucifix, still to be seen in one of the -side chapels of the Cathedral, which on the occasion of the final Te -Deum, when the Council was disbanded on December 4, 1563, was seen to -bow down in token of approval of the constitutions and enactments -which had just been signed. - -Of the fifteen or sixteen churches of Trent, the Cathedral, which was -commenced in the eleventh century and finished in the fifteenth, in -the form of a Romanesque basilica with a lantern above the joining of -the cross, is the most important. It is built of the same reddish -brown marble as the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, which stone -abounds in the immediate neighbourhood. There are some remnants of -seventh or eighth century carvings, notably the Lombard ornaments of -the three porches, which are of great interest. The interior of the -church, which is dedicated to Saint Vigilius, contains many frescoes -and some good pictures and other objects, including a Madonna by -Perugino, a copy of the Madonna Di San Luca in the Pantheon, which was -presented to a Bishop of Trent whilst on a visit to Rome in the middle -of the fifteenth century, and has ever since been an object of great -veneration to the townsfolk and peasantry of the district round about. - -The Museum in the Palazzo Municipale, which, at any rate, a year or -two ago was unfortunately closed during the months of July and August, -when many tourists are in Trent, contains some very interesting Roman -antiquities, including inscriptions, household utensils, ornaments, -coins, pottery, and similar objects, and is well worth an hour or two -for inspection. - -[Sidenote: DANTE AND THE VAL SARCA] - -Dante's connection with Trent does not appear to be, even at the -present time, very clearly proved, although there would seem to be no -doubt whatever that the poet spent some few months, at least, in the -Trentino. This theory gains some considerable support from references -which occur in the "Divina Commedia" to the Trentino, which (various -authorities state) are so detailed as to be only possible from -personal knowledge. It may, however, be pointed out that, as in the -case of Shakespeare, who described many places quite accurately to -which he could never have been, it is possible Dante's knowledge of -the Trentino was not gained from personal experience, and the theory -advanced of his sojourn in the neighbourhood, based upon references to -the district in his works, is not unassailable. A considerable number -of books, pamphlets, and articles have been written, however, by -Italian, German, and English scholars and students of Dante in support -of different theories regarding his visit to these parts. One of the -most learned and thorough writers upon this subject--Zaniboni--appears -to have no doubt that Dante was in the Trentino, but that the -"Inferno" was not written during his supposed visit to the Castle of -Lizzana, but soon after his return to Italy. Other authorities have -inclined to the view that the Val Sarca, near the tiny village of -Pietra Murata, is the real scene of Dante's "Inferno"; and those who -know this desolate and even terrible spot, where the very ground seems -blighted, the heat intense between the towering and craggy cliffs, and -the whole of the valley the scene of a horrible desolation, with huge -boulders tossed hither and thither, and not a blade of grass and -scarcely a patch of lichen to be seen, will be inclined also to -support this view. But whatever the truth may be, Trent has put in a -claim to Dante in the shape of the magnificent monument to him, from a -design by Zocchi, erected in 1896 in the centre of the Piazza Dante, -near the station. The figures around the base of the column upon which -the statue of the poet stands, with his right arm upraised and -outstretched, and his left pressing a roll of MS. to his breast, are -remarkably well executed, and the whole effect of the memorial, with -its background of craggy mountains and its environment of flower-beds, -is impressive. - -There are, of course, numberless interesting buildings, and also -several other churches worthy of study and attention; but, perhaps, -amongst all the domestic buildings and palaces of Trent, including the -Palazzi Wolkenstein and Sizzo, and the Tabarelli, in which are -magnificent private collections of pictures and other _objets d'art_, -none exceeds in romantic and legendary interest the Teufelspalast, -which has been known by several other names at various times, and -latterly as the Palazzo Zambelli. This beautiful home (now a bank) was -built by George Fugger, a relative of the wealthy banker, Anthony -Fugger, of Augsburg. The legendary story is as follows:-- - -George Fugger having become acquainted with one Claudia Porticelli, a -beautiful young woman of Trent, fell desperately in love with her, and -although the fair Claudia does not appear to have discouraged his -suit, she was too proud to yield too readily to his proposals, and in -addition was very patriotic, and inclined to the view that a Tyrolese -maid should marry a Tyrolese man. It was in pursuance of this idea, -when at last her lover pressed her strongly for an answer, that she -told him she would never marry a man who lived so far away from her -beloved home, and that she wondered how any one who did not possess a -tiny _pied à terre_ in Trent, should for a moment think that he could -have any claim upon her affections. This reply to his suit might, one -would think, have discouraged most people, but George Fugger, who -possessed vast wealth, had no intention of yielding up his claim, or -his supposed claim, to the beautiful Claudia without a struggle; and, -moreover, Claudia Porticelli, although discouraging him so distinctly, -had (like a woman) put off the evil day of giving a final answer for a -period of a little more than twenty-four hours. In this delay, George -Fugger saw the solution which great wealth and determination of -character placed within his reach. He determined, therefore, within -the short space remaining before Claudia gave him his final answer, to -build a house "worthy of the human gem whose casket it was to be." - -[Sidenote: A SATANIC COMPACT] - -Twenty-four hours or so in which to build a palace was, however, such -an impossibly short time that no man could hope to accomplish the task -by human aid alone. Therefore (so the legend goes) he sought the help -from a source to which no good Christian would think of turning, -namely, that of the Devil. In legendary lore there are many stories of -the Devil assisting men and women to an accomplishment of their -desires, but almost invariably at the price of their souls. - -George Fugger, however anxious for the Devil's assistance, was too -keen a man of business to wish to endanger his soul; so the object he -set himself to accomplish was to obtain the Evil One's aid without -paying the Evil One's price. The Devil was summoned, and he willingly -enough undertook the task upon the usual condition, of the surrender -at the end of life of the soul of the person he was helping. George -Fugger, without hesitation, signed the bond with his blood, only -stipulating for the insertion of a small clause, which provided that -his Satanic majesty should on his part do Fugger one small service ere -claiming the price of his assistance. The Devil must have been in a -good humour, for he agreed to this quite willingly and unsuspiciously, -and the two parties went their way, each well satisfied with his part -of the bargain. - -Teufelspalast was, naturally enough, of magnificent design, and at the -time it was built was furnished with the most luxurious fittings and -decorations that the mind of man or devil could imagine. Marbles of -different kinds entered largely into its construction, and the -gilding, decorations, and carvings were such as to become famous -throughout even a country noted for great and beautiful palaces. When -the building was completed, the Devil summoned the owner, and asked -him to name the little service that he was to do him. George Fugger -had thought out his little scheme of outwitting the Devil, and he took -a bushel of corn and strewed it over the different floors of his vast -mansion. Then he said to the Devil, "See! If you can gather together -all the corn strewn about the palace grain by grain, and deliver it -back to me without the loss of a single grain before morning, then my -soul shall be yours. On the other hand, should you fail to do this, my -soul remains my own as well as the palace you have built." - -The Devil, we are told, was not in the least disconcerted by the task -which had been set him, and without doubting for a moment that he -would successfully accomplish it, he set to work to gather up the -grain. In the end, just before sunrise he had completed his task, all -but the finding of five grains of the corn. He searched high and low -for the missing grains, but to no purpose, and ere he could find them -daylight, which was to mark the end of the time allotted for his task, -began to appear; but the Devil, notwithstanding the absence of the -five grains, consoled himself with the thought that Fugger would -never discover the loss of five grains amidst the many hundreds of -thousands of others which he had heaped up in the measure. When Fugger -came to see whether the Devil had performed his task or not, he -counted out the number of grains of corn, and, of course, discovered -the absence of the five, so he asked the Devil where they were. - -"Oh," said the Devil, "they are there, the measure is piled quite full -up, and you cannot be so particular as all that." - -Fugger replied, "That is all very well, but five grains are missing, -and I must have them, or you have not performed your task, and lose -all claim to my soul in return for the palace you have so marvellously -built me." - -The Evil One replied, "You have miscounted the number. I have built -your house and picked up all the grains of corn, and I am not going to -be done out of my part of the bargain; besides, you cannot prove that -there are five grains short." - -"Oh yes, I can," replied Fugger; "stretch out your right hand." And -the Devil, not seeing that it could be any harm to comply with the -request, forthwith stretched out his great hand. Fugger seized it, and -said, "There lie the five grains under your own claws. The corn I set -you to pick up had been sanctified by being offered before the Holy -Rood, and for this reason you were prevented from fulfilling your -purpose. You have not collected the grains into your measure by dawn, -as agreed, and therefore our bargain is annulled." - -The Devil was in a terrible way. He did not see how to escape -conviction of failure, and so he sought to terrify Fugger by an -exhibition of his Satanic wrath. He set to work and began to attempt -to tear down the building which he had so recently completed. But he -no longer had any power over the palace, and only succeeded in -breaking a sufficiently large hole in the wall to enable him to fly -through it and depart. - -For many years this hole, which had been bricked up, was shown to -visitors, and was esteemed by many of the Trent people of the lower -class as proof positive of the superhuman origin of the palace and the -truth of the legend. - -The end of the story is just what might be expected. The fair Claudia, -who probably never meant to refuse the rich banker, consented to marry -him, now that he had a home in Trent. And there they lived, so it is -said, happily ever afterwards, and in due time died. - -[Sidenote: THE MADONNA ALLE LASTE] - -In the immediate neighbourhood of Trent are several other buildings -and places of very considerable interest and of great picturesqueness. -One favourite excursion is to the chapel of Madonna Alle Laste, which -lies on the hillside to the east of the city, about half an hour's -stiff walking from the Port Aquila, a little way off the road to -Bassano. From this spot one not only obtains good views of the town, -but can visit on a spur of the mountain the celebrated marble Maria -Bild, to which there is an interesting legend attached. This "picture" -has been an object of veneration with the people of Trent and the -district round about for centuries. - -Some time about the middle of the seventeenth century this fine tablet -was sacrilegiously injured and disfigured by a travelling Jew, much to -the rage and indignation of the people of Trent. And although a German -artist, Detscher by name, did his best to restore the carving, it was -impossible for him to entirely obliterate all trace of the injury it -had received. But, so the legendary story goes, by some miraculous -power it was altogether restored in one night, and this miracle so -increased the veneration in which the Maria Bild was held that people -thought there was no kind of disease too desperate that it could not -be cured by prayers at such a holy shrine. Several miracles are -ascribed to this wonderful carving, which became so venerated that -ultimately a chapel was built for it and placed in charge of a hermit; -and later on a community of Carmelites was established on the spot by -reason of the generosity of Field-Marshal Gallas, and this remained -until the secularization, now many years ago. - -The convent buildings, however, still stand, and from them there is a -fine view of the distant range of mountains, and the foreground slopes -covered with peach and other fruit trees. - -With the many other interesting walks and legends attached to the -scattered villages which lie in the immediate neighbourhood of quaint -and historic Trent there is no space to deal. Most travellers must -leave Trent reluctantly, for it is beautiful in situation and deeply -interesting from all points of view. - -To the south and south-west of it lie two interesting towns. The first -is Roveredo, the second Arco; the former, though a less frequented and -less historic town than Trent, is yet one of some importance and -remarkably well situated. It dates from Roman times, and received its -name Roboretum in consequence of the enormous oak forests by which it -was surrounded. The high road which leads to it, owing to the fact -that it was one of the ancient ways into Tyrol, is crowded with ruins -of ancient fortresses and of castles in a state of more or less decay. -Most of these, including Predajo, Castlebarco, Beseno, Lizzana (at the -last named of which Dante lived during the first few years of the -fourteenth century, after his banishment from Florence), and others -took part in the various struggles for the possession of Tyrol which -were waged at different times between the Emperor of Germany, the -Republic of Venice, the Prince Bishops of Trent, and other powerful -families of the district who carried on private and other feuds -throughout the Middle Ages. - -[Sidenote: A BURIED CITY] - -At the time of Dante's banishment from Florence Castle Lizzana was the -home of the Scaligers, who gave shelter to the poet during his exile. -Not far from the Castle is that famous Sclavini (or land slip) di San -Marco, which is in reality a vast "_steinmeer_," and is probably -rather of the nature of a great and possibly pre-historic moraine, -than a land slide. But be this as it may the locality of this immense -accumulation of huge rocks thrown hither and thither no doubt provided -the poet with at least the inspiration of the descent into the -Inferno,[19] which runs as follows:-- - - "The place, where to descend the precipice - We came, was rough as Alp; and on its verge - Such object lay, as every eye would shun. - - As is that ruin, which Adice's stream - On this side Trento struck, shouldering the wave, - Or loosed by earthquake or for lack of prop; - For from the mountain's summit, whence it moved - To the low level, so the headlong rock - Is shivered, that some passage it might give - To him who from above would pass; e'en such - Into the chasm was the descent: and there - At point of the disparted ridge...." - CARY'S Translation. - -There is a legend that a beautiful city, once known as San Marco, -which was destroyed by a landslip that took place at the beginning of -the ninth century, lies buried under the gigantic rocks. At any rate, -in the Middle Ages this belief prevailed, with the result that the -peasants of the district were for ever digging amidst the _débris_ in -the hope of finding some of the vast treasure which tradition said had -been buried with the city. The story, which possesses an almost -Boccaccian touch of humour, goes on to say that on one occasion a -peasant, whilst thus excavating, came across a vast boulder, on which -was written in letters of fire in Italian, "Fortunate will they be who -turn me over." Naturally enough, the peasant was in a state of great -delight; surely this was an indication that the riches for which he -sought would be found hidden underneath the stone. Calling his -neighbours together, and, doubtless, promising them a share of the -spoil, after almost superhuman exertions, the great rock was rolled -over; but instead of finding in the cavity disclosed the treasure -which they expected, they found but another inscription on the under -side of the rock of a jocular and taunting nature, also in Italian, -which, literally translated, ran as follows: "Thanks for turning me -over; I had a pain in my ribs." As the Italian peasant, of all others, -cares little for unremunerative toil, and is easily depressed by such -sarcasm, we are told, "From that time forth the supposed ruined city -of San Marco and its buried treasures were left in peace." - -Not far from this spot, too, on the other bank of the river, is the -home of another legend of a deep cavern, concerning which there is a -tradition that years and years ago it was the retreat of a cruel, -white-bearded hobgoblin who lived on human flesh--children by -preference--and that whoever should have the courage to explore the -cavern to its depths would find at the end of it the remains of the -hobgoblin, and that his spirit would reward the adventurer by telling -him where a vast treasure lies hidden. - -Possibly the legend had some origin in the fact that the district -close here was once infested by a fierce band of robbers, who -plundered and robbed, not only travellers, but the people of the -country round about. Towards the end of the twelfth century the band -became so formidable that the then Bishop of Trent despatched a force -against them and destroyed the robbers' lair, building on the spot -where it was, and from whence they were accustomed to attack -travellers, a hospice for the protection of wayfarers, the chapel of -which was dedicated to St. Margaret. - -[Sidenote: ROVEREDO] - -Some dozen miles southward from Trent, down the pleasant valley -through which the Adige wends its tortuous way, lies Roveredo or -Rovereto, a busy and prosperous town famous for its silk culture, -situated on both sides of the river Leno, and dominated by the ancient -castle, which, built by the Venetians, has withstood many a fierce -siege. The silk trade, that gives Roveredo its chief importance, was -introduced into the town as far back as the middle of the sixteenth -century, and has contributed very greatly to its continuous -prosperity. Strangely enough, the principal family of Roveredo at the -beginning of the eighteenth century established business relations -with England, and a prosperous trade was the result. - -The town is prettily situated, and from the hillside above it presents -the usual characteristics of red roofs and white walls which -distinguish most Italian towns. It has many charming by-ways, flights -of cobble-paved steps leading up through quaint arches into zig-zag, -narrow streets of great picturesqueness, in exploring which one is -tempted to spend much time, particularly if possessing a camera. Its -chief streets, however, are wide and handsome, notably the Corso -Nuovo, planted with shady trees, leading from the railway station to -the town. - -Although there are seven or eight churches in Roveredo, none of them -are of any great moment, but there is a good altar-piece, supposed to -be the work of Giovanni da Udine, in the church of St. Rocchus, a -building erected in the middle of the seventeenth century owing to a -vow made by the inhabitants to do this during a visitation of the -Plague if the scourge was stayed. Although not a place to stay in for -any considerable length of time, Roveredo is undoubtedly worth a visit -from those who like picturesque architecture, and also on account of -its pleasant situation. - -Arco, which is on the way to Riva, lies almost due west of Roveredo, -but is reached by rail circuitously, via Mori, Nago, and Vignole, and -is picturesquely situated in the midst of laurels, palms, and olives, -dominated by the large and ancient castle situated on a pine-clad rock -high above the town. This castle was bombarded by the French, and -destroyed during the War of the Spanish Succession in 1703. The -church, a prominent object of the pretty town, is of considerable -interest, and amongst other places worthy of note is the château of -the late Archduke Albert, which has a remarkably fine winter garden. -Arco has of recent years gained some note as a health resort for -invalids with a consumptive tendency and, in consequence, possesses -quite a number of excellent hotels. - -From Arco to Riva is but a few miles, and, if possible, these should -be travelled by carriage in preference to the train, as the road lies -through the most delightful meadowland, fertile, and stretching upward -on either hand to the towering heights which shut in the valley. Riva, -which is the Tyrolese port of charming Lake Garda, is one of the most -delightful spots in all Tyrol. As one stands on the promenade, far -towards the south stretches the beautiful lake, whose deep-blue waters -and exquisite environment of mountains have been sung by poets and -described by travellers in every language of Europe. At the head of -the lake there is a very busy scene of coming and going -tourist-steamers, sailing craft piled with merchandise, hay, and other -produce, giving the little harbour quite a business-like air, which, -combined with unusual picturesqueness, cannot fail to charm every one -who comes to it. - -The town itself is situated chiefly at the foot of the precipitous -Rocchetta, on the sides of which olive trees, figs, palms, aloes, and -other vegetation grow; whilst above one hangs a deep-blue Italian sky, -luminous in summer with the brilliant sunshine of northern Italy. A -wanderer in the quaint streets and by-ways, some of the former of -which are arcaded, will come across many a picture and many a piece of -charming architectural detail for canvas and camera, whilst close to -Riva, on the shore of the lake, is the little village of Torbole, the -resort of artists, who find in its primitive character of a -fisherman's hamlet a veritable mine of delightful subjects for -pictures. - -The Parish Church of Riva deserves attention; it is really a handsome -building, and has much of interest in its interior. On the outskirts -of the town is the church of the Immaculate Conception, which was -built by Cardinal von Madruzz for the purpose of enshrining a -wonder-working picture of the Blessed Virgin. Two churches which have -their origin in times of plague, those of San Roch and San Sebastian, -erected in 1522 and 1633, are found in the town. The district round -about has the distinction of supplying the whole of Tyrol with the -branches of olive which are used on Palm Sunday; and Riva was long -considered the most northerly limit at which olive trees would -flourish. This idea, however, has of recent years proved to be -erroneous, as they are now cultivated as far north as Bozen. - -[Sidenote: A WONDERFUL VIEW] - -The ascent of the Altissimo di Nago, although a tough climb for all -save practised walkers, is well worth the trouble, as the panorama of -the lake obtained from the summit is one of astonishing beauty. Many -visitors to Riva also go to San Giacomo for the purpose of seeing the -sun rise, just as the ascent of the Rigi is made. Behind one extend -mountain range upon mountain range, and lofty peak upon peak of rocky -and snow-clad Alps; whilst to the south lies the beautiful Lake Garda, -of royal blue in the growing light, and the widespread plains of -Lombardy on either hand studded with fair cities, of which number -Milan, if the atmosphere be clear, will seem--though actually far -distant--to be so close that a good before-lunch stroll should enable -one to reach it. - -This favoured town not only takes one to the southern limit of Tyrol, -but provides a charming rest-place, from which many interesting -excursions may be made before setting one's face, reluctantly it will -surely be, northward once more, through perhaps the grander but less -soft and rest-provoking scenery of wilder Tyrol. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[19] Dante's "Inferno," Canto XII., lines 1-12. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - AMONG THE DOLOMITES, WITH NOTES UPON SOME TOURS AND ASCENTS - - -To many who visit Tyrol the most interesting district of this -delectable land is the Dolomite region, which forms by far the greater -part of the South Tyrol Highlands and offers not only unique -opportunities for climbers, but also much impressive and beautiful -scenery. - -It is only in comparatively recent years that the Dolomite of -south-eastern Tyrol has become a popular holiday-ground of tourists -and travellers. But a few decades ago it was--except to geologists, a -few artists, mining experts, and the more enterprising climbers--a -_terra incognita_, a region scarcely more known to the general -travelling public than the centre of Africa. Even nowadays it is far -less frequented by western European holiday-makers than it deserves to -be. - -Formerly there was some excuse for an ignorance and neglect which a -lack of easy transit, good roads, and railways to near-by points might -be held to condone. But at the present time so much has been done to -throw open this fascinating mountain district to the traveller, -rest-seeker, and artist that the excuse can no longer be urged. - -Concerning the climate, scenery, people, and accommodation now offered -to travellers, much can be said in praise. Indeed, regarding all of -these, it would be difficult to say everything one might without -running the risk of being accused of partiality or exaggeration. - -In this portion of Tyrol (as, indeed, may be said also of others) one -still meets with hospitality and courtesy at inns and rest-houses -which are not chiefly based upon the expectation of personal -aggrandisement or monetary reward, just as one still finds quietude -wedded to splendid scenery and beautiful prospects not yet exploited. - -In the Dolomite region, though its popularity is yearly increasing, -one can yet happily meet with comfortable hotels, which are not -overrun by the type of tourist for whom a good dinner is more than -fresh air and scenery, and dress clothes and gorgeous costumes of an -evening a _sine quâ non_. In a word, we have found that the Dolomite -region is free from many of the disadvantages of Switzerland--that -most exploited of European countries, and the one in which nowadays -perhaps the least quietude and rest is to be found--and provides a -playground for the mere pedestrian as well as a most attractive region -for the exercise of the climbing instinct. - -It must be admitted, however, that in the less frequented passes and -valleys one has occasionally to "rough" it in a mild kind of way, and -that one needs to be a good and enduring walker to "do" the region on -foot. But although some of the inns in the lesser known valleys are -yet somewhat primitive, the cooking is usually good, and the beds, -though the linen may be coarse, will be found almost without exception -spotlessly clean. - -It may be added that French is of little use in the Dolomites, except -in the hotels at the most frequented tourist resorts, such as Toblach, -Cortina, Karer See, Bozen, etc., Italian and German being generally -spoken--the former almost everywhere in the region; the latter chiefly -in the Gader Thal, Grödener Thal, and the district north of the -Ampezzo Thal; although in scattered hamlets south of the latter, here -and there one finds peasants speaking both. - -The Dolomite region is most accessible from the Venetian frontier, -Bozen, or Bruneck; and the true Dolomite district, which contains all -that is most magnificent as regards scenery and attractiveness to the -mountaineer and geological student, lies midway between the points we -have mentioned, and covers the comparatively small area of some fifty -miles by forty miles. - -Even nowadays there remain many peaks in the Dolomites yet untrodden -by the foot of, at least, modern man, as well as numberless delightful -paths amid exquisite scenery, where flowers carpet the earth and tiny -streams make their water-music. Along which by-ways, from sunrise to -sunset, one can travel amid the great silence of the hills without -meeting a single fellow-wayfarer. Many of the summits are upwards of -10,000 feet in height, and they who first climb their rocky walls, -deeply fissured sides, and ice- and snow-clad peaks, will have -accomplished tasks not inferior to those performed by the intrepid -mountaineers of the past who have scaled the great heights of the Alps -or the Himalayas. - -[Sidenote: THEORIES OF ORIGIN] - -Ever since geologists have speculated and argued concerning the origin -and nature of natural phenomena, there has been a conflict of opinion -amongst Tyrolese, German, and French geologists in particular -concerning the Dolomites. But although speculations have been many, -and various plausible theories have from time to time been advanced, -it may, we think, safely be said that none have been absolutely proved -or universally accepted. Baron Richthofen is perhaps the ablest -exponent of what is commonly known as the Coral Reef theory of origin, -and this has of late years been largely accepted by leading geologists -of different nationalities. - - [Illustration: ALPENWIESE, ON THE SEISER ALP] - -Baron Richthofen bases his theory chiefly upon the following points: -"(A) The isolated nature of the mountains themselves, and the fact -that their sides are frequently so steep and clear-cut as to preclude -any suggestion that they have been so made by the ordinary processes -of attrition, and that in general form they resemble atolls. (B) That -in their substance there are often found fossils and deposits of a -strictly marine character very closely resembling those found in coral -reefs; in addition to which the configuration shown by many of the -peaks is almost exactly similar to that found in the coral reefs of -to-day, with precipitous and almost perfectly vertical sides, where -they would have been (if the coral-reef theory is the correct one) -constantly scoured by the tide, and with much less precipitous sides -on the inner or lee side. (C) The fact that there is no trace -discernible of any volcanic origin. (D) They also, in their general -shape and lines, enclose spaces in a similar way to that which coral -reefs invariably enclose." There are many other points of resemblance -advanced in Mr. G. C. Churchill's exhaustive "Physical Description of -the Dolomite District," into which it is, however, unnecessary here to -enter more deeply. - -Of the Schlern, the magnificent peak which rises from so wild and -picturesque a wooded ravine to a height of 8402 feet, Baron Richthofen -makes the positive assertion that it is a coral reef, and that its -entire formation is owing, like that of the "Atolls" of the Pacific -and Indian Oceans, to animal activity and deposit. - -The Dolomites, which may be said to stretch between the Eisack, Etsch, -and Puster-Thal towards the south-east, and extend over the Tyrol -border into the Venetian district, derive their name from the -well-known geologist, Dolomieu, who lived in the eighteenth century, -and during the latter part of it travelled extensively in Tyrol, and -was the first to call the attention of scientists and others to the -peculiar structural formation of the southern mountain ranges. It may -be briefly here said that their material is largely limestone, but is -distinguished from the other chalky Alps by a special admixture of -magnesia. The fact that long ages ago the sea must have covered this -region, and did so for a period of long continuance, is proved by the -circumstance that, when climbing, one often finds on the very summits -of the highest peaks fossilized sea-shells. Many authorities are -inclined to the belief that some at least of the Dolomites have been -assisted in their growth, if not actually formed, by volcanic -agencies, and this theory is borne out by the fact that craters are -traceable in some of them even to-day. But whatever may be the true -origin of these magnificent peaks, there can be no doubt regarding -their unique formation. - -It may be urged by some that the Dolomites do not possess the severe -and apparently unapproachable majesty of the snow-clad Middle Alps, -with their mighty glaciers and fields of perpetual snow; but as -regards their beauty of colour, the wildness of their romantic -scenery, closely connected with the most lovely and panoramic of -landscapes, they are unequalled, just as the climate of the district -in which they stand is delightful and invigorating. - -In this comparatively small area one has a variety of scenery -unsurpassed by any, so far as we know, on the Continent of Europe. -Within the confines of the Dolomite region one has the wide range of -lofty mountains and terrific cliffs, in places reminding the traveller -of the cañons of the Rocky Mountains, with pinnacles, battlements, and -towers, rearing themselves on every hand like ruined and Titanic -fortresses, yet with their wildness softened in a measure by their -beauty of colour when gilded by the sunrise or bathed in roseate hue -of sunset light. Between the lofty peaks which rise skyward into the -very vault of heaven, as it seems to the wayfarer at their feet, -stretch lovely, winding Alpine valleys, often well-wooded and with -turf of a most delightful greenness strewn with myriads of Alpine -blossoms. Through valleys sweet with the odours of pinewoods and -flowers run rushing torrents or more quietly flowing streams, which -often have their origin in tiny, dark-blue Alpine lakes set amid -environing pine forests, in whose tranquil waters are reflected the -towering rocks and secluded woods which surround them. - -To these beautifully situated spots, which are peopled by happy and -friendly disposed peasants, come year by year an increasing number of -travellers from other countries of Europe and from America, flocking -into all the more frequented parts intent upon enjoying the beautiful -scenery over which hangs, during the summer months, a vault of -deep-blue sky, looking all the bluer by contrast with the snow-clad -Dolomite peaks, whose grandeur and fascinating beauty are not easily -forgotten by those who have once gazed upon them. - -[Sidenote: TOURING FACILITIES] - -One of the great advantages of touring in the Dolomites to -pedestrians, and cyclists more especially--although cycling provides -plenty of "collar-work"--is the wonderful network of roads which cross -the country in all directions. The surface of these roads is generally -excellent, although several of them reach altitudes of between five -and six thousand feet above the sea. The gradients have been well seen -to, the road ascending by winding curves up the hillsides mostly by -such easy stages as enable them to be traversed either on foot, in a -carriage, motor-car, or even on a bicycle without much difficulty or -fatigue. In this manner one reaches the open, sunny plateaux and -ridges which serve to divide the separate groups of mountains one from -the other, where the traveller can almost always find accommodation in -good modern hotels or in well-arranged and modernized inns. - -It is in the possession of these numerous well-managed and excellently -appointed hotels and inns that the Dolomite region excels; and they -are of such variety as regards size and the kind and cost of -accommodation which can be obtained at them, that almost all tastes -and purses can be suited. This has been more especially the case -during the last decade, in which new routes have been opened up, and -further and adequate hotel accommodation provided. Huge buildings, -affording every possible comfort and modern convenience, patronized by -the wealthy visitor, hotels on a less grand scale, suited to the -requirements of the well-to-do middle classes, and yet more modest, -though not less well-managed and comfortable, establishments, where -for an almost incredibly small sum pedestrians and tourists of more -restricted means can obtain excellent food, are all to be found in the -Dolomite region. In the larger hotels at the more noted resorts, of -course, one finds much the same "life" as that prevailing at such -places as Ischl, Semmering, Pontresina, St. Moritz, and Lucerne, where -bands play during dinner, ladies wear elaborate Parisian toilettes, -men dress for dinner, and climbing is, for most of the visitors, quite -a secondary consideration to that of enjoying "smart" society. In the -smaller places one finds greater simplicity and, to our thinking, -greater charm, with more of the life of the people in evidence and -less of the exotic. - -But the Dolomites themselves present many attractions to the climber, -and yet provide numerous ascents which can be undertaken by the -comparatively untrained and inexperienced. This is largely owing to -the fact that they consist chiefly of isolated groups of mountains of -great height, but which, owing to their isolation, are not approached -by long and toilsome journeys ere the actual climbing itself -commences, such as is often the case with the greater peaks of the -Central Alps. Numbers of the higher ones, reaching to upwards of 9000 -feet in height, may be ascended without any great fatigue by well-made -paths, thus providing for the tourists who are not expert climbers -plenty of exercise with just those elements of adventure and -inspiration which prove the greatest charms to all climbers, and the -reward at the end which comes to those who penetrate the higher -regions of a purer atmosphere, and a larger outlook upon the glorious -beauties of mountainous districts. - -There are, of course, many other Dolomite summits which can only be -ascended, and should only be attempted, by practised and hardy -climbers, for whom great heights and the risks attending their ascent -possess no terrors. It is generally conceded that the district -provides both for the inexperienced and most experienced climbers some -of the most interesting mountain ascents in Europe. In the Dolomite -region, especially of recent times, climbing has made extraordinary -progress. Summits, the ascent of which a few years ago was looked upon -as a great achievement by even good climbers, are now scaled by -numbers of people every year; and each year brings additions to the -conquered peaks, some of which were a decade ago looked upon as -absolutely unclimbable, and likely to remain so. - -The Dolomites are, indeed, gradually becoming as well known to -climbers and would-be climbers of even the countries of Western Europe -as are the Swiss Alps, and annually a larger number of lovers of -Alpine scenery take their holidays in this region; and of late years -the district has been visited by many even in winter time. In summer, -although much accommodation has already been provided for tourists, it -is, up to the present, decidedly insufficient for all the visitors who -flock to this region during the months of July, August, and September. -It is, therefore, advisable for any one who wishes for a comfortable -time during those months to secure rooms in advance at all places -which are to be visited, more especially at those centres of -attraction to which the greater number of tourists are in the habit of -gravitating. - -[Sidenote: DOLOMITE GROUPS] - -The Dolomites may be divided into the following groups, running from -east to west.[20] (1) The Sextner Dolomites, the most important -summits amongst which are the Drei Schuster Spitz, 10,375 feet, which -is ascended generally from the Fischelein Boden; the Elferkofel, -10,220 feet; the Zwölferkofel, 10,150 feet; Oberbacher Spitz, 8700 -feet, and the Drei Zinnen, 7897 feet, two absolutely bare peaks of -sulphurous limestone, streaked with pale orange, rising grandly and -boldly from behind the Monte Piana plateau like two huge scored and -fissured fingers of a Titanic hand. (2) The Ampezzaner Dolomites, -with Monte Cristallo, 10,495 feet, with its many peaks veiled by -snows, glassing itself in the agate green waters of the lovely -pine-environed Dürren See. Monte Antelao, 10,710 feet; the three -Tofanas, ranging in height from 8565 feet to 10,635 feet; and the -Sorapis, 10,520 feet. (3) The Agordinischen Dolomites, with the -Nuvolau, 8685 feet; Monte Pelmo, 10,395 feet; and Monte Civetta, -10,565 feet, whose western face from Caprile was unascended till as -recently as 1895, when Messrs. Raynor and Phillimore, with two Ampezzo -guides, made the ascent. (4) The Grödener Dolomites, which embrace the -beautiful Rosengarten, the Schlern, 8415 feet; the Sella-group, -including the Sellajoch, 7275 feet; Rodella, 8155 feet, and other -lesser peaks; and the Geislerspitzen, with its highest peak, Sas -Rigais, 9930 feet. (5) The Fassaner Dolomites, consisting of the -groups of the Latemar, 9166 feet; the Marmolada, the highest of all -the Dolomites, a huge group with several peaks, including the Puntadi -Penia, 11,020 feet; the Marmolada di Rocco, 10,820 feet, and other -magnificent and lofty summits; and the Pala Group, including the -Cimone Della Pala, 10,450 feet, the Pala Di San Martino, 9830 feet, -and the Pala Della Madonna, 8336 feet. - -There are numberless interesting and picturesque excursions to be made -in this charming region of the Dolomites, but the space at our -disposal will only permit of the mention of a few of the most -accessible, interesting, or picturesque. - - - [Illustration: MISURINA LAKE] - -INNICHEN THROUGH THE SEXTEN THAL TO LAKE MISURINA. - -Innichen, reached from Toblach through a beautiful pine (larch) -forest, is a prettily situated townlet on the Puster Thal road, with -good accommodation for visitors. It possesses a fine monastery church, -dating from the thirteenth century, which is one of the most -interesting and unique buildings in Tyrol. It contains some very -extraordinary and grotesque figures and faded frescoes, and a small -chapel built in imitation of the Holy Sepulchre by one of the -villagers, who once made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. The road leads -a little below past the village into the Sexten Valley, the principal -hamlet of which is Sexten, or St. Veit, which is nowadays a charming -and much-frequented summer resort, where one may wander amidst almost -illimitable pine forests, and enjoy fresh mountain air and quietude -surrounded by exquisite scenery. From Sexten one reaches in about an -hour Fischlein Boden, by way of Moos, along a beautiful path through -the pine woods, from whence one obtains an admirable view of the head -of the valley, with the Drei Schuster Spitze, the Oberbacher Spitze, -Drei Zinnen, Elferkofel, Zwölferkofel, and Rothwand, and an almost -unrivalled vista of snow peaks. From this point, passing the Zsigmondy -Hut, 7320 feet, one comes to the Bacherjoch. From the Zsigmondy Hut, -the Elferkofel and the Zwölferkofel may be ascended, both of which -are, however, very difficult. Over the Bacherjoch a footpath leads to -the Drei Zinnen Hut on the Toblinger Riedel, 7895 feet, on past the -celebrated Drei Zinnen to the pretty Misurina Lake, tree-bordered and -mountain environed, one of the most charming and picturesque spots in -the Dolomites. - - -TOBLACH THROUGH THE AMPEZZO THAL TO SCHLUDERBACH AND CORTINA. - -From Toblach there is an excellent excursion through the Ampezzo -Valley to Schluderbach and Cortina. The starting-point is situated on -the watershed of the high Puster Thal, and is a great place for -consumptives and different forms of fresh-air cures. It is visited by -people from almost all parts of the world, and in consequence the -hotel accommodation is excellent and even luxurious. The village of -Toblach itself is at the head of the Ampezzo road, which here leaves -the Puster Thal at an altitude of nearly 4000 feet, and leads due -south, passing between the Sarlkofel, 7740 feet, on the right, and the -Neunerkofel, 8418 feet, on the left. The Puster Thal railway, which -comes within about a mile of the village, makes Toblach easily -accessible, and it is in the neighbourhood of the station that the -huge modern hotels are built, acting, as it were, as gateways to the -beautiful Ampezzo Valley. The road through the latter is a magnificent -one, well suited for motoring if care be taken in descending some of -the sharp curves which lead down into Cortina; and especially -beautiful upon such an evening in June as we traversed it, just as the -sunset hues were illuminating the higher peaks with that roseate glow -which is destined too soon to fade to purples and through them to the -slatey blues of twilight. - -From Toblach the ascent is very gradual to the pretty and romantically -situated Toblach Lake; and thence one passes on to Landro at the head -of the valley of the Schwarze Rienz, where rise the lofty and -snow-clad Drei Zinnen with the waters of the Dürren See, jade green -and beautiful in colour, with Monte Cristallo with its cap of eternal -snow and its glacier, the Piz Popena and Monte Cristallino, rising in -the background. From the Dürren See to Schluderbach, 4730 feet, is a -distance of less than two miles; and here, too, one finds a -beautifully situated village surrounded by fine scenery, and provided -with excellent accommodation for tourists whether they be but passing -along into Italy or inclined to make a lengthy stay. - - - [Illustration: A ROAD THROUGH THE DOLOMITES] - -SCHLUDERBACH--CORTINA. - -From Schluderbach the road passes over the boundary between Tyrol and -Italy, through a beautiful forest, past a deep ravine, down to -Ospitale, 4835 feet, situated at the base of the Crepa di Zuoghi, 6745 -feet, and afterwards skirting the Peutelstein or Podestagno, 4945 -feet, by a wide though sharply curving road skirting precipitous -slopes and crossing the deep gorge of the Felizon by the Ponte Alto, -down to Cortina d'Ampezzo, 4025 feet above the sea, reached by -carriage from Toblach in about seven hours, and distant from it just -over twenty miles. - -[Sidenote: CORTINA] - -Cortina is beautifully situated on the left bank of the River Botta, -with the fine Tre Croci Pass (which takes its name from the three -large wooden crucifixes) opening away behind the town eastward, and -the Tre Sassi Pass widening out before it westward. The town is the -principal one in the commune of Ampezzo, and is surrounded by -stupendous heights and grand snow-clad mountains, amongst which are -some of the most splendid of the Dolomites. For years past Cortina has -been so considerable a resort of tourists and rest-seekers that -splendid accommodation is nowadays obtainable; and one of the first -impressions made by the place upon the traveller who comes to it after -that of its picturesqueness is its prosperity. It is far cleaner, too, -than most Italian or semi-Italian towns of its type. Though the -climate is so favourable--even in the coldest of winters the -thermometer seldom falls far below freezing-point--the soil of the -district is very poor, and the appearance of most of the -mountain-sides and valleys is bleak. There is in consequence little -agriculture and no cultivation of the vine in the immediate -neighbourhood of Cortina. Indeed, throughout the Ampezzo Thal -pasturage and timber-felling, and not agriculture, are the chief -industries, although wood-carving and the manufacture of gold and -silver filigree work is carried on to a very considerable extent. - -The festivals and fairs of the district are amongst the most important -of south-eastern Tyrol, and at them one still sees many of the -charming peasant costumes which have had here, as elsewhere, a -tendency to die out. The huge silver-headed hairpins of the girls -form a particularly noticeable feature of their elaborately and neatly -plaited coiffures. - -The main street of Cortina is a sunny and picturesque one, many of the -houses possessing quaint, irregular roofs, and the church, little -piazza, and hostelries making up a charming picture, with a beautiful -vista of pastures and mountain summits at the end of the street. - -The church, with its stately detached campanile, from the gallery of -which, nearly 250 feet above the level of the street, there is a fine -and extensive view of the town and valley, is one of the largest for -many miles around, and contains, amongst other things, an unusually -handsome altar, and some beautiful wood-carvings by Brustolone. The -churchyard (unless recently altered) is a desolate though a -picturesque spot, unfortunately a standing memorial of indifference -for the memory of those who have passed away, and irreverent neglect. - -All who reach Cortina, whether they stay long or merely for a few -hours, should go to the Aquila Nera Inn, if only to see the -interesting and varied paintings of two of the sons of a former -proprietor named Ghedina which adorn the walls of the dining-room, -staircase, the outside of the "Dependance," and even the whitewashed -walls of the outhouses and stables. The subjects are of great variety, -displaying in many cases much technical skill and imaginative gifts, -and comprise military and religious figures and designs, grotesques, -and on the walls of the square-built and solid-looking Dependance are -some large groups representing painting, sculpture, architecture, and -other domestic subjects, especially noticeable being the painter-like -and clever manner in which modern objects, such as telegraphic -instruments, cameras, steam-engines, etc., have been handled. - -From the top of the campanile, in which are hung great bells, one has -the village and the valley spread out at one's feet, with the Ampezzo -Thal stretching north and south and the passes of Tre Croci and Tre -Sassi stretching east and west. - -[Sidenote: BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS] - -In the valleys surrounding Cortina there are many beautiful wild -flowers and specimens of Alpine flora, amongst the most noticeable of -which are the wild daphne and the smaller mountain gentian; we fancy, -too, that in another very beautiful though small pink flower with -waxen petals, which grew in large clusters, we found the _Androsace -glacialis_, although two botanically learned friends differed as to -the correct name of this charming specimen. - -On the way to Cortina via Schluderbach one can, by branching off -southward soon after leaving the village, reach, either on foot -through the woods or by a good carriage road through the Val Popena, -the beautiful and nowadays much-frequented Lake Misurina, in which the -peaks of the Drei Zinnen and the tree-clad lower slopes of environing -hills are charmingly reflected. The lake, although of comparatively -small size, is justly considered one of the most beautiful in Alpine -regions, and on its banks several large hotels have already been -erected for the accommodation of the increasing number of visitors who -come to this quiet and lovely spot which lies nearly 6000 feet above -sea-level. - -One of the most picturesque excursions in this extreme southern limit -of Tyrol is by the carriage road, which, after passing through the -village, traverses the forest and by a gradual ascent reaches Tre -Croci, 6000 feet above sea-level. All along this beautiful road, which -traverses the slope of the Crepe di Rudavoi, one obtains the most -beautiful peeps of the huge cliffs of Cristallo to the right, with -fine vistas of the Marmorole and Sorapis on the opposite side. At Tre -Croci the beautiful Ampezzo Valley suddenly bursts upon the view with -the huge mass of the Tofana right across the valley, whilst in the -distance and to the south-west appears the serrated ridge of Croda da -Lago; and yet further distant the snow-clad summits of Marmolada. -From Tre Croci the beautiful road runs direct to Cortina down a rather -steep incline. Although the former means of reaching Cortina from -Schluderbach by the high road and through the Ampezzo Thal is the more -easily accomplished, none who have taken the road by way of Misurina -will regret its greater length because of its greater interest. - - -SCHLUDERBACH--PLÄTZ WIESE--PRAGSER WILDSEE--NIEDERDORF - -From Schluderbach, too, there is another road branching northward from -the Imperial Road to Niederdorf on the Bruneck-Innichen-Toblach line, -leading over the Plätz Wiese, upwards of 6500 feet above sea-level. -There is a fine hotel on the Plätz Wiese, about two hours from -Schluderbach, and it is from thence that one ascends the Dürrenstein, -9320 feet. This easily climbed mountain, although not providing much -excitement for the expert Alpinist, is one of those which amply reward -the climber for the fatigue and trouble of the ascent. As one stands -upon the summit one has spread out around on all hands a most -astonishing and magnificent panorama of the Dolomites, as well as of -the glaciers and Middle Alps which lie to the north. Amongst the great -heights and groups, on a good day plainly visible from the mountain, -are those of the Tauern, Ortler, and Adamello, and the beautiful -Pragser Thal, with amongst the chief heights the Hohe Gaisl, 10,330 -feet; Cadini, 9320 feet; Monte Cristallo, 10,495 feet, with its -glacier, and many other giants of the region. - -[Sidenote: PRAGSER WILDSEE] - -The road from Plätz Wiese continues past the little watering-place -Alt-Prags to Niederdorf, to reach which occupies about three and a -half hours. There is from this road another, branching off and leading -past the watering-place of Neu-Prags, with its prettily situated -houses and hotels, to the lovely Pragser Lake, nearly 5000 feet above -sea-level, and distant from Niederdorf seven and a half miles. Pragser -Lake, or the Pragser Wildsee, is one of the most beautiful, secluded, -and romantic of all the Alpine lakes, surrounded and sheltered as it -is by the mighty walls of the Seekofel, 9220 feet; the Herrstein, 8035 -feet; Col de Ricegon, 8770 feet; Hochalpenkopf, 8420 feet, and many -other wild and impressive heights. In the olive-green waters of the -lake itself the two first-named giants are reflected with wonderful -distinctness and beauty; whilst on the slopes of most of the -surrounding mountains the silvery, star-like flowers of the edelweiss -and the royal blue gentians grow with a luxuriance scarcely equalled -in any other part of the Dolomite region. The climate of this Alpine -lake is indeed bracing and health-giving, for on the hottest summer -day one finds a cool and refreshing air coming down from the mountains -and traversing the surface of the lake, whilst in the evening the -temperature is not materially lowered, as so often occurs at places -having such a considerable altitude and set amid great peaks, so that -one can remain in the open air quite safely, even though lightly clad, -until the beautiful Alpine twilight wraps the lake and its shores in a -mantle of mysterious beauty, and night seems to descend from the -summits of the great peaks around. - -No one, however, should think of visiting Pragser Wildsee in the -summer season without first bespeaking accommodation at the beautiful -hotel situated on the borders of the lake, or they may find themselves -compelled (as have been many others before them) to turn their backs -upon this lovely spot for lack of accommodation, as this is always -crowded with visitors during the months of July, August, and the early -part of September. This charming resort is most easily reached from -Niederdorf, situated on the Puster Thal railway, one station eastward -from Toblach. - - -CORTINA--FALZAREGO--BUCHENSTEIN. - -From Cortina the old Imperial or high road takes one out of the -Dolomites to the south-east into Venetian territory to Belluno, an -interesting and picturesque old town standing on a hill between the -Piave and Ardo, which at this point flow together. The Cathedral, -built chiefly by Tullio Lombardo in the early years of the sixteenth -century, was unfortunately greatly damaged during the earthquake in -1873; but it has been largely restored, and contains, in addition to -many interesting architectural details, some fine altar paintings. -From the summit of the campanile, which is upwards of 200 feet in -height, one obtains a most exquisite view of the old town and -surrounding country. The Prefecture, in the Piazza del Duomo, is a -fine early Renaissance building dating from the end of the fifteenth -century, and was originally the Palazzo dei Rettori. - -Belluno will shortly be connected by rail with Cortina, and possess a -station of its own. The new Dolomite road, however, travels from -Cortina in a south-westerly direction to the rock-strewn Falzarego -Pass, 6945 feet, lying in the shadow of the Hexenfels, 8126 feet, -whilst to the south-west rises the impressive, snow-covered Marmolada, -with the Col di Lana, 8084 feet, in the foreground of the picture. -From this pass one can ascend the Nuvolau, 8460 feet, from the summit -of which there is a panoramic view of the railway and surrounding -peaks. At the other end of the pass the new Dolomite road descends -more than a thousand feet into the valley of Andraz, a little, -picturesquely situated village from which several interesting -excursions can be made, near which lie the ruins of a very ancient -castle bearing the same name. Buchenstein, the chief village of the -Buchenstein Valley, distant from the end of the pass some nine miles, -is reached by the road from Andraz. There are some excellent inns, and -the village is splendidly situated and makes a good centre for -holiday makers. - - - [Illustration: A PEEP OF THE DOLOMITES] - -BUCHENSTEIN--CAPRILE--ALLEGHE SEE--ARÁBA. - -Near it a little road branches off to the south-east, which, leading -through Italian territory and crossing a stream, leads to Caprile, -just over the Italian frontier, descending on the left side of the Val -Cordevole, with fine views of the Val di Livinallongo. The village of -Caprile, at the far end of which is the short Venetian column, -surmounted by a lion of St. Mark, a relic of the days when the -Venetians ruled the district, is a somewhat straggling one, with many -of the houses built upon arches. The church is ordinary, although -there are some quaint decorations to the organ-loft worth seeing. But, -disappointing as is the village itself, its beautiful surroundings, -with the truly magnificent prospect of Monte Civetta, and the -beautiful Alleghe Lake, tempt one to prolong one's stay. - -From Caprile the road leads to the Lake, which lies at the foot of -Monte Civetta. The high road, however, which is fairly level, leads -first of all to the village of Arába at the foot of the Pordoijoch, -7355 feet. - - -BRUNECK--ENNEBERG--ARÁBA. - -On the way to Arába one can also reach, direct from the Puster Thal -station, St. Lorenzen, through the wildly beautiful and romantic -Enneberg Thal, which forms the shortest route to the middle division -of the great Dolomite road. One peculiarity of the Gader or Enneberg -Thal, and other similar valleys of the district, is the fact that the -peasantry speak neither German nor Italian (although in some valleys -the latter language is gradually becoming more used), but the patois -known as Ladin, which somewhat resembles the Romanche of the Grisons -district, although each valley has certain peculiarities of dialect. -No doubt these latter will in time die out, and German will become the -common language of the more German valleys, and Italian of the more -Italian. - -The carriage-road, which is 45 kilometres (28 miles) in length, is not -suitable for motors; it leads past Pedrazes, 4350 feet high, and -Corvara, 5110 feet, to Arába. Near Corvara lies the way over the -Grödener-Joch, 7010 feet, into the beautiful Grödener Thal, often sung -by the poet Walther von der Vogelweide. - - -WAIDBRUCK--GRÖDENER THAL--ARÁBA. - -The usual starting-point, however, for the latter is Waidbruck, to the -south of the Brenner road between Franzenfeste and Bozen. From -Waidbruck, 1545 feet, which lies at the head of the Grödener Thal, -with the Trostburg, 2040 feet, towering above it, the road goes to St. -Ulrich, 4055 feet, distant eight miles, the chief village in the wide -valley, prettily situated and surrounded by tree-clad slopes, beyond -which rise some magnificent rocky Dolomite peaks. The church, dating -from the end of the eighteenth century, has a beautiful interior, -containing some excellent examples of the woodcarving for which the -Grödener Thal has for ages been and still is famous. - - [Illustration: THE LANGKOFEL] - -[Sidenote: SOME DOLOMITE PEAKS] - -From St. Ulrich it climbs upwards through the valley, which at each -step becomes more beautiful and more magnificent, to St. Christina, -4685 feet, with its mountain pastures dominated by the huge -Langkofel-Joch, 8800 feet, and many other impressive heights, such as -Secéda, 8270 feet, Geislerspitzen, 9930 feet, to the north, and the -Plattkofel, 9740 feet, to the south; the Stella Group to the -south-east, with the Col dalla Piëres, 9055 feet; and the Pitzberg, -6020 feet, Puflatsch, 7140 feet, and the more distant Rosengarten and -the Schlern to the south-west. - -From St. Christina the road continues over the hill to St. Maria in -Wolkenstein, to Plan, 5290 feet; from whence mule tracks lead over the -magnificent Grödener-Joch, with its protection hut, or hospice, 7010 -feet, into the Enneberg Valley to Arába; and also over the great -Sella-Joch, 7275 feet, to Canazei, in the Fassa Valley, which lies -southward of Pordoi. There are several excellent and interesting -ascents which can be made from the Grödener Valley. First of all there -is the romantic Geislerspitzen, which, however, should only be -attempted by the skilled climber, as it is both a laborious and -difficult ascent. In the same category, though more difficult, and -suitable only for hardy mountaineers, are the Grosse Furchetta, with -its highest point 9930 feet; Kleine Furchetta, a few feet less; the -Fermeda-Thurm, 9440 feet; and the Gross Nadel, 9250 feet. Starting -from the Sella-Joch, the magnificent Sella, with the Boè Spitz, 10,340 -feet, as well as the wildly rugged Langkofel, can be ascended. From -the Sella-Joch also one can easily ascend the Col Rodella, 8155 feet, -which lies to the south-west of the former, from which summit one -obtains a very fine and extensive panoramic view. - - -ARÁBA--PORDOI--CANAZEI. - -In Arába, the second part of the new Dolomite high road, which comes -over the Pordoi-Joch to Canazei, in the Fassa Thal, the way ascends in -wide zig-zags through a beautiful and broad Alpine valley, in which -those interested in botany will find a wealth of Alpine flora scarcely -excelled by that of any portion of Tyrol, up to the heights of the -Pordoi-Joch, where there is an inn at which meals can be obtained, and -from which a most magnificent circular panoramic view extends. From -this place well-made tourist paths extend in many directions to the -Boè-Spitz as well as to the Fedaja Pass, 6710 feet, and the frontier -between Tyrol and Italy; a most attractive road, with the huge snow -peaks and glaciers of the giant Marmolada close at hand. - -The new Dolomite road goes from the Pordoi-Joch in a south-easterly -direction, traversing a magnificent forest with wonderful and -ever-changing views of the craggy peaks of the Dolomites, and thus on -to Canazei in the curve of the Fassa Thal. - - -CANAZEI--FASSA THAL--NEUMARKT--TRAMIN. - -This little town, 4790 feet, distant from Arába just over twelve -miles, is charmingly situated, and much resorted to by tourists as a -centre from which to make numerous interesting short tours in the -Dolomites. The inns are simple in character though comfortable, and -for that reason many will find that they possess an attractiveness -exceeding that which one finds in hotels of a more pretentious class. -The high road leads near Canazei, past Gries, Campitello, Vigo, and -Möena, to Predazzo, the chief town in the Fassa Thal, 3340 feet, about -nineteen miles from Canazei. - -The place occupies, so we are told by Baron Richthofen and other -authorities, including de Saussure and Churchill, the site of an -ancient volcanic crater, although it is indeed difficult for those -unversed in geology and seismic phenomena to realize the fact. -Predazzo, which stands in a broad valley at the junction of the Val -Travignolo and Fleims Thal, is a prosperous town, mainly owing to the -mineral wealth in the immediate neighbourhood, which of late years has -been developed and worked, and the fertile nature of the valley. The -inhabitants are principally iron workers, farmers, and hay or timber -merchants, and their sphere of trade is a far wider one than the -uninitiated would imagine, extending as it does throughout the -Austrian Empire, to Germany, Switzerland, and other countries. The -town cannot, however, be described as either very picturesque or -pretty; there are too many saw mills and iron furnaces in it, and -these in a measure serve to destroy the beauty of a naturally pretty -valley. But the painter of figure studies and tiny domestic pictures, -and the camera user with an eye for quaint "bits" may find them in the -older portion of the town amongst the wooden buildings; and -picturesque groups of women and girls are sure soon to reward the -patient artist or photographer who takes up a position commanding the -stone fountain in the main street, to which many come daily to draw -water. - -There is a fine new church, which, however, cannot displace in one's -artistic or sentimental affection the old one with its Tyrolese belfry -and weather-worn look. The famous and curious old house known as the -Nave d'Oro, now an hotel, but once the home of Giacomellis for -hundreds of years, is worth inspection, as some of the armorial -bearings of this erstwhile noble family still appear above the old -carved doorways, and serve as decorations of the ceilings and -fireplaces. The visitors' book contains what must be one of the most -valuable (so far as scientists and geologists are concerned) -collections of autographs to be found in any Tyrolean hotel. - -Predazzo is one of the finest geological centres in Eastern Europe, -and in the immediate neighbourhood of the town many beautiful and -varied minerals and crystals are found, amongst them the Tourmaline -granite, Uralite porphyry, and the Syenite porphyry, with its -marvellous crystals, which, so far as we have been able to ascertain, -are unique to this district. - -Although Predazzo is chiefly--and, in fact, almost entirely--given -over to mining, smelting, and timber-cutting, there is yet, amid all -the hum of the timber sawing-mills, and the roar and smoke of the -furnaces, a considerable lace-making school for women, where this most -delicate of industries is taught and practised. Some exquisite -specimens of lace are to be seen, and can be purchased at moderate -cost. - -An interesting fact in connection with the rich pasturage on the -slopes of the Latemar is that it belongs by common right to the -descendants of the original families founding the village, and was -given to the latter by a grant dating from the Middle Ages, but by -whom made it does not appear absolutely certain. - -The road leads on through the Fleimse-Thal, past Cavalese, where there -is an ancient palace of the Bishops of Trent, which has a painted -façade. The building is now used as a jail. There is here a fine -Gothic parish church, standing on a hill, with an old marble entrance -porch, and some interesting pictures by native artists. The road then -leads one on to the railway station at Neumarkt-Tramin, which is -twenty-four miles from Predazzo and ninety-eight miles from Toblach. - - - [Illustration: MOUNT LATEMAR] - -VIGO DI FASSA--KARER SEE. - -At Vigo di Fassa, 4565 feet, the chief village in the Fassa Thal on -the road to Bozen and the Karer Pass, the road branches off, leading -in a westerly direction over the Pass, 5270 feet, and past the Karer -See, 5030 feet, which lies at the base of the Latemar, to Bozen. - -[Sidenote: THE VAJOLET AND SCHLERN] - -Karer See is one of the most beautifully situated places between the -Rosengarten and Latemar, and is also one of the most celebrated and -fashionable resorts in the Dolomite region. From its situation and -numerous delightful walks and excursions which can be taken from it, -it is especially suited for a lengthy stay, and for these reasons -partakes somewhat of the nature of the well-known Swiss resorts such -as St. Moritz, Pontresina, Engleberg, and other places of a similar -character. Many of the hotels are most beautifully situated on the -borders of the lake, with a picturesque background of pine woods, -beyond which tower the serrated and deeply fissured summits of the -Dolomites, with striking views of the great peaks of the Latemar, -Rothwand, Ortler, Oetz Thal, and Stubai Alps. From Karer See the -Latemar and the Rosengarten, whose highest point is 9780 feet, are -easily visited, and among the excursions which those who are not -expert climbers can take is that from Karer See, by the Rosengarten, -past the Ostertag and Ciampedie hut, 6530 feet, to the Vajolet hut; or -past the Kolner hut, 7630 feet, over the Tschager-Joch, to the Vajolet -hut, 7430 feet. Starting from the Vajolet hut, one can ascend the -Vajolet Thürme through a ravine filled with _débris_ and a steep slope -usually covered with snow; the Rosengarten Spitz, 9780 feet, and the -Kesselkogel, 9845 feet; Cima di Laura, 9440 feet, and several others. -All of those mentioned are difficult ascents, and should only be -attempted by expert climbers and with guides. - -From the Vajolet hut a fairly good footpath also leads over the -Grasleiten Pass, 7100 feet, to the hut which occupies a magnificent -position with an extensive view of the giant Dolomites in the -immediate vicinity, and towards the west a fine prospect of the -Presanella and Ortler Group. From this point the path leads through -the Bärenschlucht up the Schlern. - - -WAIDBRUCK--SEIS-SCHLERN. - -The Schlern, which is a huge accretion of Dolomite rock, towering -above the green, undulating plateau which forms its base, the middle -peak known as the Alt-Schlern or Petz, 8402 feet, is the highest of -the series, although several of the peaks approach it in altitude -within a few hundred feet. The Schlern forms one of the most -attractive groups of Dolomite peaks, on account not only of the -magnificent view which rewards the climber, but also because excellent -accommodation for tourists and climbers has been provided on the slope -of the Alt-Schlern just above the plateau, at a height of 8040 feet. -There are situated the Schlern house, belonging to the Bozen Alpine -Club, with upwards of thirty beds, and the Schlern Inn, containing a -little over half that number. - -The starting-place for the ascent of the Schlern is usually Waidbruck, -already referred to, and from thence a carriage-road leads by way of -Kastelruth and the charmingly situated summer resort Seis, 3285 feet, -to Bad Ratzes, 3950 feet, situated in the wild but well-wooded gorge -of the Frötschbach. Between Seis and Bad Ratzes, set in the forest, -are the ruins of the ancient home of the Minnesinger Oswald von -Wolkenstein. From Bad Ratzes the peaks of the Schlern can be easily -reached by a mule track, although serious climbers generally take up -their residence at either the Schlern House or the Schlern Inn whilst -ascending the various peaks which can be most easily reached from that -point. - - -BLUMAU--TIERSER THAL--ROSENGARTEN. - -From the Schlern and Rosengarten district one proceeds from the -railway station to Blumau, 1020 feet, near Bozen, into the renowned -and picturesque Tierser Thal. The carriage-road from Blumau takes one -through pretty scenery in about two and a half hours to the little -village of Tiers, and then on to Weisslahn-Bad, 3818 feet, from whence -tourists' paths have been made leading up the Schlern to the -Grasleiten hut, and over the Niger to the Kölner hut, from which one -can then either ascend the Rosengarten, or proceed through beautiful -flower-bedecked Alpine meadows to the charming Karer See. - - -KARER SEE--BOZEN. - -From Karer See the road, which, though a fair one, is not practicable -for motors, winds, gradually descending, through beautiful woods to -Welschnofen, 3865 feet, a favourite summer resort, situated in a fine -open valley with splendid views of the towering serrated ridge of the -Latemar on the right, and on the left the beautiful Rosengarten. From -Welschnofen there is a good road to Birchabruck, 2895 feet, a pretty -place where the Welschnofen Thal branches to the left, and the wildly -romantic Eggen Thal, leading to Bozen--which is the principal town in -southern Tyrol--to the right. - - -FASSA THAL--PANEVEGGIO--SAN MARTINO--TRENT. - -At Predazzo there branches off from the high road another good road -which leads over the Rolle Pass, 6510 feet, into the Pala Dolomites, -and then over Primero, 2350 feet, on one side towards Venice, and the -other towards Trent. This fine high road threads its way through a -splendid forest to Paneveggio, 5055 feet, a pleasantly situated -village--set amid pine woods--from which one can return over the Lusia -Pass, 6745 feet, to Möena, and ultimately to Karer See, with -magnificent views of the Colbricon, the Cimon della Pala, and the Oetz -Thal Alps in the background. From Paneveggio, too, the road climbs up -the Rolle Pass, which forms the watershed between the Adige and -Brenta, and then descends to San Martino, 4740 feet, which is -charmingly situated in a beautiful wooded dell at the foot of the -Dolomites. The road from the head of the pass to San Martino, once a -monastery, is by stupendous zig-zags cut through a splendid forest. -Yearly the little village is becoming more and more popular, owing to -its beautiful situation, the equableness of its climate, and the many -charming excursions which can be made on every hand suitable either -for the pedestrian or the climber. - -The Imperial road from here descends rapidly to Primiero, and then -traverses a wildly romantic ravine full of boulders, and with -tree-clad mountain slopes to Primolano, on the Italian frontier, and -thence to Tezze, 740 feet, which is the present terminus of the -railway, and is the principal point on the Val Sugana road uniting -Tezze with Trent, 640 feet, the chief town of the Italian Tyrol, with -25,000 inhabitants. - -These, then, are a few briefly sketched tours in the Dolomite region -which will, as we ourselves know, well repay the seeker after -magnificent scenery, pure air, and solitude, or society, as the case -may be. - -Quite recently a most excellent and original type of relief map of the -Dolomites has been published, which on account of its clearness and -comprehensive character makes it a very valuable, if not positively -indispensable, companion for all who wish to travel in this most -interesting, though somewhat complicated district. Fortunately the -map, which is published at a remarkably moderate price, is to be -obtained at all the principal railway stations of the south Austrian -railways, and one cannot do better than obtain a copy ere setting out -for a Dolomite tour, whether it be an extended one or not. - -We would call particular attention to the fact that the Dolomites -being, many of them, on the frontier between Austria and Italy, there -are numerous fortresses dotted about in quite unsuspected corners, the -sketching and photographing of which, or even of their immediate -surroundings, is very strictly prohibited. Warnings on signboards are -erected at all the points of danger, and the instructions placed -thereon should on no account be disregarded. The consequences of so -doing are likely to be extremely unpleasant, and possibly lead to the -at least temporary incarceration of the offender. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[20] The heights given are those appearing in the latest edition of -Baedeker's "Eastern Alps" and the publications of the Vienna and -Austrian Alpine Clubs. - - - - -CHAPTER XI - - THROUGH THE UNTER-INNTHAL: KUFSTEIN--KUNDL--RATTENBERG, AND - THE STORY OF WILHELM BIENER--BRIXLEGG, AND ITS PEASANT - DRAMAS--THE FAMOUS CASTLE OF MATZEN--ST. GEORGENBERG, AND - ITS PILGRIMAGE CHURCH--CASTLE TRATZBERG--SCHWAZ - - -The first view one has of Kufstein from the railway, or rather of its -ancient fortress of Geroldseck, which dominates the prettily situated -little town, is almost bound to evoke the remark that it is a Salzburg -in miniature. Indeed, the parallel is not an inapt one, for the -partially tree-clad and rocky eminence on which the last stronghold -held by the Bavarians at the end of the invasion of 1809 stands bears -considerable resemblance to the greater Mönchsberg with the town -spread out at its feet. - -The river Inn has narrowed ere it reaches Kufstein, which may be -called the border town of north-eastern Tyrol, and now flows rapidly -onward to meet the Danube. The place is pleasantly situated; but it is -rather on account of the interest and beauty of its surroundings than -to the town itself that its growing popularity as a holiday resort -must be chiefly ascribed. And yet, with that ancient and grim old -castle above one, with its huge round tower dominating the rock on -which it stands, and the charming valley and pine-clad slopes of the -environing hills spread out on either hand, one is tempted to linger -in the town. - -The Castle, which in all probability occupies the site of Roman -_Albianum_, marks the position of one of the oldest settlements in -Tyrol. Even in the times of Charlemagne there is at least one record -of the place "Caofstein," accompanied by some interesting details. -From its position near the borderland of an antagonistic race -Kufstein's history is romantic, stirring, and chequered. As a -well-known writer upon Tyrol aptly says, "For centuries it was turned -into a political shuttlecock, now taken by force of arms, then by -stealthy surprise, now mortgaged, then redeemed or exchanged for some -other possessions by its whilom owners."[21] And its general fate and -varying fortunes were similar to those of other frontier fortresses, -such as Kitzbühel during the Middle Ages. - -The grim fortress upon the rock, somehow or other, when seen in the -fading light of evening, seems to bear its story of cruelty, rapine -and harshness on its face. Many a gallant heart in the old days, which -people are so prone to label "good," pined or fretted to death within -its walls; and, unless tradition is entirely at fault, many a noble -maiden and dame also were incarcerated and died tragic deaths within -its thick, grim walls, and in its sunless dungeons. - -The history of the fortress, so far as it concerns us, may commence -with its cession to Bavaria in or about 1363 by the Duchess Margaret, -the last of Count Albert's successors as rulers of Tyrol, when she -found herself unable to govern the country. She had acquired the -estates of Kufstein, Rattenberg, and Kitzbühel on her marriage with -Louis of Brandenburg; and when she ceded Tyrol to Austria it was -stipulated that these properties should revert to Bavaria. - -[Sidenote: SIEGE OF KUFSTEIN] - -These possessions remained Bavarian until the reign of the Emperor -Maximilian I., when the two latter gave allegiance to him. Kufstein, -however, refused to yield, and so in 1504 Maximilian appeared before -it, and commenced a siege. This event is particularly interesting, as -some authorities state it constituted the first occasion on which -proof was given that the introduction of artillery meant the -death-knell of mediæval fortresses, however strong and hitherto -regarded as inaccessible they might be. We are told, however, that the -guns brought to bear upon the Castle by the Emperor in the first -instance were quite ineffective, so much so, indeed, that the -Governor, named Pienzenau, whose sympathies were strongly Bavarian, -aroused the Emperor's anger by causing some of the garrison to sweep -up with brooms the dust, which had been the only damage done by the -besiegers' guns to the Castle walls, which were of great thickness, -and also to dust the latter themselves with the same articles in full -sight of the besiegers. The guns were either too small, or had been -placed at too great a distance from the Castle to do more than graze -it with their shot. - -Finding his culverins and "serpents" of no avail, the Emperor -dispatched some one to Innsbruck for two monster guns, known as -_Weckauf_ and _Purlepaus_, which the Governor of that town, Philip von -Recenau, had recently cast at the foundry. These weapons, of which -drawings are extant, although the chroniclers of the time do not -mention their calibre or dimensions, were of considerably larger size -than "Queen Elizabeth's Pocket Pistol" at Dover, and threw balls of -about 300 pounds in weight, it is said, for a distance of nearly two -thousand yards. The arrival of the great guns put a very different -complexion upon the siege; and after they had been brought to bear -upon the castle, and had been fired,[22] it was found that their shot -not only penetrated the fourteen-feet-thick walls with ease, but even -the rock itself was pierced, according to some historians, to a depth -of eighteen inches. Pienzenau now wished to surrender to the Emperor, -provided his life was spared. But Maximilian did not forget the -incident of the brooms, which bears some slight analogy to the -historic "broom" incident connected with the Dutch Admiral Van Tromp, -who hoisted one at his masthead in derision of the English, whom he -claimed to have swept off the seas. "So he is anxious to throw away -his brooms, is he?" the Emperor is said to have remarked. "He should -have taken this course before. He has caused by his obstinacy the -walls of this fine fortress to be so shattered, so he can do no less -than give his own carcase up to a similar fate." - -And although great efforts were made to obtain pardon for Pienzenau -and some of his more important supporters they were unsuccessful, the -Emperor remaining quite obdurate. It is this execution of a brave man -(whose courage and fidelity to his nation should have aroused nothing -but admiration) which is a stain upon the Emperor's record. No less -than five and twenty of the principal defenders were condemned to be -executed. The survivors of the garrison attempted to escape secretly -before the general assault, which had been arranged, took place, but -they were captured. The first to be beheaded was Pienzenau; but when -seventeen (some authorities say eleven) of his companions had shared -the same fate, Eric, Duke of Brunswick, interceded with Maximilian so -earnestly that the lives of the rest were spared. This same Eric had -formerly saved the Emperor's life in battle, and possibly this fact -influenced the latter towards clemency. Over the grave in which the -victims of Maximilian were buried by the people of Kufstein was -erected a little chapel at Ainliff on the opposite bank of the river. - -The booty and valuables taken from the Castle were placed together and -divided (including, for those times, the very large sum of 30,000 -florins in hard cash) according to the rank of the victors. The -Emperor showed himself on this occasion more just to his troops than -he had been clement to the defenders, as he paid his share of the -spoil into the common fund. The small booty he took consisted -chiefly, if not entirely, of skins of the lynx and marten, and other -hunting trophies. - -Kufstein, after its reduction by the Emperor Maximilian, was -garrisoned, and in succeeding ages underwent numerous sieges, -including the memorable one during the campaign of 1809, when -Speckbacher performed deeds of bravery which were almost apocryphal in -character. - -[Sidenote: A KUFSTEIN ROMANCE] - -As is perhaps only natural, there are many legends and romantic -stories connected with the fortress, some of them arising out of the -life-histories and achievements of the many distinguished prisoners -who were from time to time during the Middle and succeeding ages -confined within its walls. Amongst the more romantic captives was the -famous Hungarian brigand, Andrew Roshlar, who was tried and condemned -to death at Szegedin nearly forty years ago, to whose account upwards -of a hundred murders were ascribed. - -Kufstein must have been a difficult place from which to break out, but -there is, at least, the tradition of a prisoner in the fifteenth -century making good his escape. He was a Tyrolese knight captured by -the Bavarians, and confined, apparently with some degree of comfort -and laxity of surveillance, in one of the upper chambers of the great -round tower, from which, through the devotion of the girl (a maiden -much beneath him in rank) to whom he was secretly betrothed, he -succeeded in escaping. The story goes that this girl, who came from -some place west of Innsbruck, having discovered the whereabouts of her -lover after some difficulty, succeeded in obtaining a post as maid in -the household of the then owner. After some weary weeks of waiting, -she obtained access to her lover's cell, having been given the work of -carrying up to him daily his supply of food and water. It was then -arranged between them that she should each day convey to him a small -quantity of hemp, out of which he was to fashion a rope. This she did, -concealing the hemp in the bosom of her dress. In course of time the -imprisoned knight had made a sufficiently long rope to reach from his -window to the ground, the bars across which he had gradually almost -filed through from the outside inwards, so that any one casually -examining them would not be likely to discover the fact. Everything -was ready for the escape, and it was arranged that the same night the -girl was to make her way out of the Castle and join him ere the great -gate was shut. - -On the day fixed she had brought the captive's allowance of food about -noon, as usual, when on leaving the cell and making her way downstairs -she was accosted by one of the steward's sons who had sought her -favour. She was horrified to find that he suspected the plot, and that -the price of his silence was her honour. She hesitated, and pitifully -entreated him to spare her, but to no avail. Then, when he told her -that not only would discovery mean her own death in all probability, -but certainly the death of her lover, she yielded. About sundown she -left the castle, and mad with grief at the shame and insult she had -been compelled to suffer, she wandered about until it was dark. She -had determined to assure herself of her lover's escape, and then to -cast herself from the steepest point of the rock upon which the Castle -stands down into the valley below. In the dusk she at length saw -faintly a black figure descending against the wall, and then she heard -cautious footsteps approaching the thicket in which she stood -concealed. - -With a half-stifled cry which she could not altogether suppress, she -hurried through the undergrowth, and was within a few yards of the -edge of the rock, when she was seized by her lover and saved from -destruction. The story goes on to say that they both escaped, and that -the knight eventually married (and, let us hope, lived happily with) -the brave girl who had compassed his deliverance. - - [Illustration: A PEEP OF KITZBÜHEL] - -The town of Kufstein itself does not call for extended description. -But one feature that immediately prepossesses the visitor in its -favour, if one arrive, as we did when last there, on a hot summer -day, is the number of shady promenades to be found, more especially on -the east side of the town, in the neighbourhood of the delightfully -picturesque Kiengraben. None should fail to visit the Calvarienberg, -from which there are delightful and extensive views of the Castle, -town, and valley. - -[Sidenote: KUFSTEIN TO KITZBÜHEL] - -To reach Kitzbühel from Kufstein it is necessary to change trains at -Wörgl, eight and a half miles down the Unter-Innthal, and proceed up -the Brixen Thal by the Staatsbahn past Hopfgarten to Kitzbühel. The -town is a charming one, surrounded by gardens where once there ran a -moat, and containing some interesting houses along the banks of the -Kitzbühler Ache. Many of them still have Gothic roofs and gables, -which give them a mediæval appearance, and one of great charm. The -town has of late years become a favourite summer resort, and its fine -situation in a wide valley nearly 2500 feet above sea-level has much -to recommend it. But its fame is by no means merely that of a summer -holiday spot. It is almost equally resorted to for winter sports of -tobogganing, ski-ing, and skating, and may be, in fact, called the -Tyrolese Grindelwald or Adelboden. Then the snow-clad valley is indeed -beautiful, more like fairyland than aught else, with only the church -spires of Kitzbühel and the pines on the hillsides to break the wide -white expanse. - -The Kitzbühelhorn is a favourite ascent, from which very fine views -are to be obtained, especially of the giants of the Tauern range, the -Chiemsee, and the rocky and impressive Kaiser Gebirge. The pasturage -and the Alpine flora in the neighbourhood of Kitzbühel are especially -rich, and there are many beautiful excursions to be made in the -district round about. In the Brixen Thal, indeed, the artist and the -student of costumes and ancient customs, which are, alas! so rapidly -dying out, will find much of interest. In many of the villages the -annual contests, consisting of wrestling and other sports--which -anciently were often so strenuous as to lead to serious injury to the -combatants and competitors, and even bloodshed--still take place. At -Kitzbühel there is an athletic gathering in June, which is held on a -plateau near the inn on the Kitzbühelhorn, and partakes of the -character of the Grasmere Sports of our own land, and the Braemar -gathering in Scotland. - -The peasants as a general rule in the Brixen Thal, as in the more -famous Ziller Thal, are musical, and often indeed are quite skilled -musicians; and frequently as one wends one's way through the -flower-spangled pastures or climbs the mountain-side, from some -isolated hut or shady nook beneath a boulder will come the musical -tinkling of a cowherd's zithern or the flutey notes of his pipe. But, -as a rule, we have found the players shy of performing before -strangers, who will therefore be well advised if they listen to the -music unseen and without seeking to discover its source. - -The Brixen Thal, too, is a great dairy district, the chief industries -of which are butter- and cheese-making. - -As regards the scenery of the valley one may say that in few others in -Tyrol does one come across a greater variety of light and shade, or -more delightful cloud effects. Indeed, the clouds, which at one time -seem as though they will sweep down the mountain-sides and obscure -everything, and at others sail majestically, like huge cotton-wool -argosies, across the blue vault of heaven, thousands of feet above the -highest peak of the Tauern Giants and the bare and grey limestone -peaks of the Kaisergebirge, in themselves form pictures and phenomena -of the greatest beauty and of ever changing interest. - -[Sidenote: MONKISH MIRACLES] - -Kundl is a small village some four miles south-west from Wörgl, and it -would attract little attention from travellers were it not for the -curious church of St. Leonard auf der Wiese (St. Leonard in the -Meadow) and the quaint legend attached to it. The story goes that -early in the eleventh century a stone statue of St. Leonard came -floating down the Inn to this spot; and the people, recognizing that -for a stone statue to float was nothing less than miraculous, after -securing it, set it up by the roadside, so that all who passed by -should see and reverence it. Probably modern scepticism will lead us -to suppose that the figure was in reality of wood and not stone; and -then the miracle explains itself! The region is subject to floods, and -doubtless the figure of St. Leonard came from some church higher up -the valley which had been destroyed by avalanche or inundation. - -However, the story goes on to tell us that the statue had not long -been placed in position alongside the high-road ere Henry II., Duke of -Bavaria, himself passed that way, and seeing it paused to ask an -explanation of its being there. When the story had been told him, he -seized the opportunity (as did many other rulers in those days) to -strike a bargain with Heaven which, whilst benefiting Mother Church, -would also be not without profit to himself. He therefore vowed that -if the expedition into Italy, which had brought him along that road, -should prosper and his forces be victorious, he would on his return -build a handsome votive church over the spot where the figure of the -saint stood. - -Alas! for human vows, even those of one destined to become an Emperor. -Although his arms prospered, and he was crowned at Pavia, and made -King of Germany, he forgot all about St. Leonard. Some years later (in -1012) fortunes and the cares of his kingdom once more brought him into -Tyrol on his way northward and to the spot where the figure of the -saint still stood by the roadside. Then another miracle happened, for -his horse, "although urged forward with whip and spur and words," -refused to pass the spot where his master had formerly made so solemn -a vow, and stood foaming and champing his bit much to his rider's -embarrassment. As was but natural, the Emperor at once remembered his -vow and set about fulfilling it. - -The church, which was forthwith commenced, was finished in a couple -of years, but a catastrophe marked its completion. Just as a young man -was about to place the vane in position he was seized with sudden -giddiness, and falling to the ground was dashed to pieces. "His body," -so a somewhat quaint local version of the story has it, "was gathered -together by the horrified onlookers," and his skull--which can still -be seen--was placed at the foot of the crucifix on the high altar as -an offering. There is a record in the church of the fact that the -Emperor erected the building, and that Pope Benedict VIII., who was a -nominee of his, made the very considerable journey from Rome to -consecrate it. There would, however, notwithstanding this, appear -considerable reason for doubt whether he did. - -The image now to be seen only dates from 1491, and there is no record -regarding the disappearance of the original "miraculous" one which it -must have replaced. The interior of this church has suffered both from -neglect and whitewashing at various times. But there are some quaint -and excellent carvings, including a few pew ends, and also some fine -iron work, and the figures adorning the ten columns which surround the -high altar are interesting. It is as one comes into the village that -the prettiest view of the church is obtained. - -Rattenberg, which is some five miles distant from Kundl on the main -line and road, is not much visited by tourists, and is chiefly of note -on account of the copper mines, which are still worked. The town is, -however, decidedly picturesque and repays a visit. Scarcely anywhere -in Tyrol in a place of similarly small size does one get such -contrasts in architecture. And, doubtless, for this reason one seldom -fails, during the summer months, to find several artists at work in -the narrow streets. One side of the river is occupied by houses and -buildings of the most solid, gloomy, and altogether unprepossessing -character, whilst on the opposite bank one finds the very antithesis -in the pretty, light-looking dwellings, quaintly painted in delicate -shades of buff, pink, and sky-blue. Beside them and between them are -quaint courtyards and narrow alleys of often an extremely picturesque -character. - -[Sidenote: WILHELM BIENER] - -Many people seem to confuse the Castle of Rattenberg, which dominates -the little town and river, with that of Rottenberg, the crumbling -ruins of which lie on an eminence overlooking the roads which lead out -of the Inn Thal into the Achen Thal and Ziller Thal, once the seat of -one of the most powerful feudal families of Tyrol. Rattenberg Castle -is said by some authorities to date back to the days of the Roman -occupation, and even to Etruscan times, and its history has been not -less stirring and chequered than that of most other similarly placed -fortresses of the Inn Thal. The chief event in connection with it was -the imprisonment of Wilhelm Biener, the brilliant Chancellor of -Claudia Felicitas de Medici, wife of the Archduke Leopold V. Biener, -unfortunately, afterwards fell into disfavour with the pro-Italians at -the Court of Claudia's son and successor, the Archduke Ferdinand Karl, -Regent of Tyrol, and was executed at Rattenberg in 1649 and buried -near the wall of the churchyard. Those who wish to know more of the -romantic and stirring period of Tyrolese history in which Biener lived -and died cannot do better than read that fine historical novel, "Der -Kanzler von Tyrol" (The Chancellor of Tyrol), by Herman Schmid. - -The story of Biener's fall may be briefly told. Claudia de Medici, on -the death of her husband, with her Chancellor's advice and assistance, -succeeded, not only in governing Tyrol wisely and well during the -minority of her two sons, but, by the exercise of great wisdom, -contrived to escape embroilment in the terrible and disastrous Thirty -Years' War in which the whole of the rest of the German Empire was -involved. Her rule, however, was not altogether without some -harshness, which was chiefly shown in the collection of taxes, and in -this matter the Chancellor Biener was naturally concerned, with a -result that his zeal for his beautiful mistress's interests caused him -to incur the hatred of a certain section of the Court and community at -large. On one occasion he found himself in serious opposition to the -then Bishop of Brixen concerning the payment of certain dues, the -legality of which the bishop questioned. Biener appears for once to -have failed in his usual skilful and diplomatic treatment of affairs. -He wrote a very intemperate letter to the bishop, which the latter -never forgot nor forgave. Years after the death of Claudia, the -resentment against Biener took more definite shape, and he was accused -of having misappropriated some of the money belonging to the State -which had passed through his hands. Tried by two Italian judges, he -was found guilty (though, apparently, upon very flimsy evidence), and -condemned to death. - -The fallen Chancellor made a last appeal to the Archduke Ferdinand -Karl, son of his late mistress, and the Archduke, thoroughly believing -in Biener's good faith and innocence, and, doubtless, remembering his -many distinguished services to his family, reprieved him. Unhappily -for the condemned man, his greatest enemy, the President of the -Council, named Schmaus, was able to so delay the messenger that he -arrived too late to save the Chancellor. - -Biener was led out for execution, and on stepping on to the scaffold, -he cried out, "As truly as I am innocent of this thing, I summon my -accuser (Schmaus) before the Judgment Seat above before another year -shall pass away." - -When the executioner had done his work, and stooped to pick up the -head to exhibit it to the multitude, he found that he had also -unknowingly smitten off three fingers of the victims right hand, -strangely (so the story goes) bringing to mind the remark of the -Bishop of Brixen on reading Biener's letter years before--"The man who -could write a letter like this to me deserves that his fingers which -held the pen should be cut off." - -By an equally remarkable occurrence, we are told, the President of the -Council, who had been not only Biener's most relentless enemy but his -chief accuser, died within the specified time of a terrible disease. - -The wife of the Chancellor is supposed to haunt the mountain paths in -the neighbourhood, and at night may be sometimes met with proclaiming -her husband's innocence in a moaning voice. The story, doubtless, has -its basis in the circumstance that the unfortunate woman lost her -reason and ran away no one knew whither, but was ultimately found -wandering aimlessly, and quite bereft of her senses, on the -mountain-side between Brixlegg and Rattenberg. There was for many -years (and may be still for aught we know) a tradition that when any -one was about to die in the little village near Innsbruck, where -Biener's wife, after her marriage, lived happily for many years, she -appears to warn them. - -Near the town, in one of the mining buildings, is a most curious -picture done upon a wooden panel, combining a representation of the -mining works about 1500 with one of the Crucifixion, in which the -miners, with their pickaxes and shovels laid down beside them, are -seen kneeling in prayer. - -[Sidenote: BRIXLEGG] - -Brixlegg is but a mile or so from Rattenberg. The neighbourhood is -pretty, and there is a charming view from the bridge. The little busy -town also forms an excellent centre from which to make some of the -shorter excursions into the Ziller Thal and Achen Thal. But, although -there are considerable smelting works and a wire-drawing industry at -Brixlegg, to the tourist it is chiefly its reputation for peasant -dramas which forms the chief attraction in the town, which is, -however, quaint and in a measure picturesque. - -The rural plays of Brixlegg are not only interesting by reason of the -historical scenes they many of them represent, but also as survivals -of a very early (if not the earliest) type of German dramatic -expression and art which has come down to us. Most of the plays, -types of costume, plots, and all the various items which go to make up -these performances have done service for generations; but occasionally -new plays are written and staged, mostly dealing with historical -incidents and characters. In some parts of Tyrol where these plays -survive, till at least very recent times, old masks were extant, which -must have been handed down from the early Middle Ages, and possibly -(so some competent authorities assert) date from Roman and Etruscan -times. The Brixlegg performances should most certainly be seen by all -who are interested in the true peasant drama and the evolution of -dramatic art. The representations are far more interesting as native -and peasant art than those of Meran, where to a certain extent outside -criticism and influence have served to bring about modifications, the -Meran performances lacking some of the naiveness and spontaneity of -these simpler peasant dramatic plays. - -[Sidenote: SCHLOSS MATZEN] - -Just after leaving Brixlegg, on the left-hand side of the road stand -three castles of note--Matzen, Lichtwer, and Kropfsberg. The first -named is one of the most interesting and well-preserved examples of -the mediæval schloss in Tyrol. A whole volume might be devoted to a -description of its beauty of situation, architecture, romantic history -and sieges, and yet leave much unsaid. Its huge round tower dominates -the landscape, just as its beautiful lower courtyard, with its four -tiers of cloistered corridors round two sides, with the "springs" of -the arches supported upon short columns of unworked marble, its fine -main hall, with priceless carved and panelled oak and hunting -trophies, make it a unique possession. There is a charming view of its -rivals, Lichtwer and Kropfsberg, from the drawing-room window, whilst -standing at which (according to old chroniclers) one of the Frundbergs -was shot dead by a crossbow bolt fired by his brother from the tower -of Lichtwer, of which castle the latter was the owner. - - [Illustration: SCHLOSS MATZEN] - -Of special interest to most visitors who may be fortunate enough to -be permitted to see Matzen and its treasures will undoubtedly be the -famous figure of Christ upon the cross in the chapel; the library--one -of the oldest rooms--with its fine Renaissance chest; the fine -collection of old pewter; the hunting-room, with the many trophies of -its famous "sporting" as well as literary owner;[23] and perhaps not -without interest to most visitors will also be the stone table, once -standing upon the place of execution at the other end of the castle, -but now in the shadow of the great circular Roman tower, just outside -the postern entrance from the garden. At this table in olden times, it -is said, the owner of Matzen sat when dispensing justice to his -vassals or retainers. Set in the wide valley, and girt around by -trees, Matzen is one of the most picturesque as it is one of the most -interesting and historic castles in Tyrol. - -There is not much to detain one at Jenbach, which is a small town at -the entrance to the Achen Thal, on the northern, and the Ziller Thal -on the southern, bank of the Inn. - -Just before one reaches Schwaz, one sees storied Castle Tratzberg high -on a wooded spur of the Bavarian Alps, with its three turrets in line, -seeming to overhang the rocky eminence upon which it stands. Up above -the castle, scarcely visible from the valley, is the famous pilgrimage -church of Georgenberg, which all who can should visit. - -The path, though toilsome, winds through a sweet-scented pine forest. -As one nears the goal of one's pilgrimage, the way is marked by -stations of the cross. One passes through a silent region, and, as one -ascends, the pretty villages scattered below in the valley of the Inn -are gradually and for a time lost to view. Scarcely any one is met -save a stray pilgrim or some tourist curious enough to make the -ascent, and no sound is heard save the soughing of the summer breeze -in the pines and the tinkle of little streams or the water-music of -the Stallen torrents. At last, through an opening in the environing -forest, one catches the first glimpse of the white church, with its -Romanesque tower and rust-red roof, standing on a steep and barren -rock some three hundred feet in height, to reach which the covered -wooden bridge spanning the deep ravine must be crossed. - -And what a shrine it is! An isolated tabernacle set upon a rock in a -solitary place, and amid surroundings of the greatest beauty and -impressiveness; shut out of the world and shut in with nature. The -cross at the head of the bridge records the miraculous escape of a -girl long ago who, whilst attempting to pick the fairest flowers for a -chaplet to place upon the Madonna's head or lay upon the altar, fell -into the ravine, a distance of over one hundred and fifty feet, and -yet escaped serious injury when death seemed certain. - -The impression one receives when at last the summit of the rock upon -which the church stands is reached is one of great solemnity and even -of grandeur. For a time the outer world has receded from one's mind -and ceased to exist. And when one enters the church itself, the -impression which has been created cannot fail to be intensified by the -silent, kneeling figures almost always found within, with their faces -illumined with rapture and faith or transfigured by religious fervour. - -[Sidenote: ST. GEORGENBERG] - -The little chapel of "Our Lady of Sorrows" (Schmerzhaften Mutter) -comes first, surrounded with a tiny graveyard, in which are buried the -favoured few who have had their wish gratified to rest in death in the -solitary but beautiful spot they loved and visited when alive. The -larger building, the church of St. George opposite the chapel, -contains one of those most curious legendary relics of which not a few -have been preserved from time immemorial in Tyrol. The story of the -miracle which produced the relic is briefly as follows:--About the -year 1310, in the days when Rupert I. was the fourteenth abbot in -charge of the Monastery of Georgenberg, the ruins of which surround -the present church, a Benedictine monk was saying Mass in this very -church. Just as he was about to consecrate the cup, a doubt came into -his mind as to whether such a miracle as the changing of the water and -wine into blood could be accomplished in his unworthy hands. Torn with -doubt, he nevertheless proceeded to use the words of consecration; and -he was struck dumb with astonishment and awe to find, in place of the -white wine and water he had placed in the cup, blood, which overflowed -the chalice and fell upon the wafers. Some portion of this miraculous -blood was preserved in a phial, which was set in a reliquary and -placed upon the altar. In former times this precious relic, we are -told, has worked many miracles, and is venerated almost as much to-day -as in mediæval times. - -[Sidenote: A WOODLAND SHRINE] - -The pilgrimage of St. Georgenberg is one of the most famous and -ancient in Tyrol. So ancient, indeed, that its origin appears to have -dated as far back as the end of the tenth century, when a chapel was -consecrated here by Albuin, the then Bishop of Brixen. Even before -this, however, Scherer asserts that a young Bavarian nobleman named -Rathhold, from Aiblingen, "having learned the hollowness of the joys -of even his great position, made up his mind to live apart from the -haunts of men in some wilderness and solitary spot." And in pursuit of -this determination he wandered on through the fertile fields and -valleys of his own land and those of the Inn until he at length -reached this spot in the Stallen valley, and ultimately came to the -rock upon which the church stands. Up on the mountain-side he carved -out for himself a cave where he lived as a hermit. But after a while a -desire possessed him to go to some of the shrines of the greatest -saints. He visited many, even travelling so far afield as to the -shrine of St. Jago de Compostella; and at length returned once more to -his hermit's cave to finish his days in prayer and contemplation. But -he brought back with him a picture of the Madonna, over which with his -own hands he reverently erected a protective shrine. - -Soon from all the district round about, and even from distant parts of -Tyrol and Bavaria, people came to worship at the shrine; and ere long -"Our Beloved Lady under the Lindens" became a great pilgrimage resort. -One day, years afterwards, so the story goes, there came to the place -another young Bavarian nobleman who had wandered far in pursuit of -game, and on hearing of the shrine had determined to visit it himself -to ascertain what were the attractions and virtues of a place which -was so venerated by the peasants of the mountains and valley round -about. On his arrival at the little chapel he sought the hermit -guardian, when what was his joy and astonishment to discover, in the -white-bearded recluse, the elder brother whose strange disappearance -from his castle home years before had caused much grief. Overjoyed at -the meeting, the younger brother vowed that he would build a chapel on -the spot more adequate for the protection of the holy and miraculous -picture, and also a "shelter house" for pilgrims. - -The work was soon started, and from far and near peasants and even -nobles came or sent offerings so that they might have some part in the -work. Then a strange thing happened. All the virtue, which had made -the spot one of miracles, and one of such good fortune to the halt, -diseased, blind, and dumb, seemed to depart. Hardly had the workmen -commenced the foundations of the proposed chapel ere accident after -accident occurred, some of them fatal. The stones would not remain in -place, and everything connected with the building "went wrong." -Another curious happening was the presence day by day of two white -doves, which came down, apparently from out of the woods higher up -the mountain-side, and picked up every chip of wood upon which any of -the workers' blood had fallen when they cut themselves with their -tools (as they frequently did), and then at once flew away with the -chips in their beaks. - - [Illustration: A WAYSIDE SHRINE IN A PINE WOOD] - -Finding that this action of the doves continued and that no progress -could be made, the hermit determined to seek an explanation of the -mystery, and so one day he followed the birds up the mountain-side, -and on reaching the spot where he saw them descend he found to his -astonishment a perfect miniature chapel or shrine which had been -constructed out of the chips and shavings the doves had carried away. -"In this miracle the hermit discovered the directing hand of God, and -going down again to his brother he entreated him to have the -contemplated chapel built upon the spot which had been so miraculously -pointed out." This the latter willingly consented to do, and the work -now progressed without accident or other interruption. The chapel so -erected, which is further up the hillside than the larger church of -St. George, was rebuilt at the time the latter was erected in the -eighteenth century. - -From time to time other pilgrims both noble and simple who visited the -shrine set amid the woods and mountains were moved to remain, and thus -gradually a community was gathered together living in roughly built -huts in the vicinity of the hermit's cell, which in course of time -about the twelfth century was put by the then Bishop of Brixen under -the rules governing the order of St. Benedict. The monks not only -built a monastery but cultivated the surrounding land, and quite a -large community at last dwelt in this secluded spot. But the life of -the monks was destined to be very chequered, and often troubled with -grave misfortunes. Fire, avalanches, famine, and disease all did their -best to extirpate the brotherhood. And at last, at the beginning of -the eighteenth century--after having been established at St. -Georgenberg for more than five hundred years--it was decided to remove -the monastic institutions to Fiecht. - -Vast funds were needed, for the then abbot, named Celestin Böhmen, who -was a native of Vienna, and had formerly been an officer of artillery, -projected the new monastery and buildings upon a lavish and colossal -scale. There was, however, no lack of funds. St. Georgenberg held a -place in the hearts of all the people for a wide district round about, -and money also flowed into the monastic coffers from foreign lands -from which pilgrims had come to the famous shrine. Then a great -disaster happened. The abbot, tempted by the vast wealth which had -been placed in his hands, and perhaps weary of his life of retirement -from the world in which he had once been a prominent figure, fled with -the money which was to have been used for the new abbey at Fiecht. The -work of building was for a time brought to a standstill, as no trace -of the defaulting abbot could be discovered. But after some years a -sufficient sum of money was obtained to permit of the work being -continued under the direction of Abbot Lambert. The result was the -present handsome late Renaissance building; which, however, comprises -but a small portion of the first magnificent scheme. The renegade -Abbot, Celestin Böhmen, some years after his flight and crime, once -more became enamoured of a life of contemplation, and suddenly -appeared at the monastery, confessing his wrong-doing and throwing -himself upon the mercy of his former companions. He did not appeal to -their clemency in vain; for, refusing to deliver him up to justice, -they allowed him to end his days in piety and repentance, which one -can only trust was genuine. - -Such, at all events, is substantially the story as told by Burglechner -and other writers. - -A strange fascination seems to enshroud this quiet and secluded -shrine of St. Georgenberg, and certainly it is one of the pilgrimage -places which most inspire one with the spirit of those remote ages -when in the making of such journeys many found comfort, peace of mind, -and refreshment. Indeed, one almost wonders that the monks should have -deserted it for a new home and a less quiet situation on the hillside -near Schwaz, which has now for some years been used as a school. - -[Sidenote: CASTLE OF TRATZBERG] - -Just before reaching Schwaz one passes the old and fine castle of -Tratzberg, which well deserves a visit, not only on account of its art -and other treasures, but also by reason of the delightful views -obtained from it. Tratzberg, which was sold by the Duke Frederick to a -rich mine-owner named Christian Tanzel in 1470, with the title of -Knight of Tratzberg, was often visited by the Emperor Maximilian I. on -his various hunting expeditions in the neighbourhood. Knight Tanzel -spared no expenditure to make it one of the most beautiful and famous -castles in the Inn Thal. Not the least interesting of the many finely -decorated rooms which it contains are those which were generally -occupied by Maximilian on his visits, and the fine apartment known as -the Queen's room, with beautiful presses, interesting portraits, and -magnificent panelled ceiling. The armoury, too, full of mediæval -cannon, pikes, lances and other ancient weapons, never fails to -interest the student and archæologist, who, whilst wandering through -these ancient and wonderfully well-preserved rooms, gains a more vivid -idea of the conditions of life in the Middle Ages than much "book -learning" could give him. In the great hall are some remarkable -frescoes in _tempera_, depicting the genealogical tree of the house of -Habsburg with quaint groups of portraits. Some of the antlers, which -are so attached to the wall as to serve as portions of the design, are -said to have been hunting trophies of Maximilian himself. - -The two Maximilian rooms, which open one into the other, are happily -in much the same condition and state as when occupied by the Emperor. -The panelling, whilst not comparing for elaborateness with that in -some of the other rooms, is good, and the ancient stove, dating from -the fifteenth century, is of great interest. On the walls of the room -in which this stands is an inscription in chalk, said to have been -written by Maximilian himself, which sums up a quaint philosophy, and -has been translated thus-- - - "I live I know not how long, - I die I know not when; - Must go I know not whither; - The wonder that I so joyful am." - -[Sidenote: A GRUESOME STORY] - -In 1573 the castle and lands passed into the possession of the famous -Fugger family, and ultimately into that of the Enzenbergs, one of whom -is the present owner. There is at least one gruesome story and -tradition told in connection with Tratzberg, which is not itself at -all gruesome-looking, as Tyrol castles go. - -It appears that the ancient owners of the castle were most of them -more noted for love of the chase than for being "instant in prayer," -and one was so great a defaulter in this respect that, although he -could always hear the notes of the hunting horn blown early in the -morning and rise with alacrity to obey its summons, sad to relate, -when the chapel bell rang for Mass, it was quite a different matter. -One morning the bell woke him as usual, and as usual he yawned, and -turned over in his bed for another nap, thinking, no doubt, pityingly -of the folk who had got up early to attend the service. He had no -sooner done this than he had a dream or vision of the old chaplain -performing the service in the chapel, and of the devout worshippers -gathered to listen to him. Then the triple tinkling of the Mass bell -announced to him the most solemn rite of the service was being -performed. Then came a rumbling noise, the very foundations of the -castle seemed to shake, and the building to sway as though about to -collapse, and the hundreds of windows rattled and shook. The knight, -who was superstitious if not religious, terrified beyond control, -shrieked aloud, and then tried to hide himself under the bedclothes in -his terror. His cry was heard by some of the servants and retainers, -who came hurrying to the room; and upon entering they were -horror-struck to find their master dead, whilst upon his throat were -the imprints of three claws, which had burned as well as torn the -skin. The inference drawn was that the knight had been enjoined by -some Heavenly spirit to rise and repair to the celebration of the -Mass, but had resisted the Divine influence, and had been claimed by -his master, the Devil, who had strangled him. Some marks on the walls -of the room where he died were for years afterwards shown as those of -the wicked knight's blood. - -There are many other traditions and legends attached to this famous -castle, which is one of the several buildings in Europe making a claim -to possess exactly as many windows as there are days in the year; but -for these stories, interesting though they are as exhibiting the -credulity, barbarism, and imaginativeness of mediæval times, we have -not space. - -Not far from Tratzberg is the quaint, interesting, and flourishing -town of Schwaz, on the right bank of the Inn, and overlooked by the -Castle of Frundsberg. It was, far back in the times of the Roman -occupation of Tyrol, a station of considerable importance and size; -but after the evacuation of the country it gradually declined until -the fourteenth century, when it was little more than a scattered -hamlet of poor houses, with an inn for the accommodation of travellers -who were too weary to proceed further on their way to Innsbruck, or -who had been overtaken near the place by nightfall. - -[Sidenote: SCHWAZ MINERS] - -Then at the commencement of the fifteenth century, according to -Burglechner, a vein of silver ore was discovered through the rampant -behaviour of a bull, who went mad or became uncommonly energetic, and, -tearing up the grass on the hillside with his horns, was the means of -disclosing what afterwards proved to be a vast deposit of silver ore. -The news of the discovery was brought hot haste to the poor hamlet by -the herdsman who was in charge of the animal, and the inhabitants -flocked out to investigate the story of the shining metal which had -been uncovered. In a very short time Schwaz regained its ancient -prosperity and importance, and at one time, when the silver mines were -at their best, the population, which nowadays is about 6500, was not -far short of five times as many. The discovery of the silver caused -several of the noble families in the neighbourhood to forsake the -calling of arms and knightly service for that of mine owning and mine -working; and the vast wealth of the Augsburg merchants and bankers, -notably the Hochstetters, Ilsungs, and Fuggers, was largely employed -in the working of the mines which had been speedily opened up. Amongst -the noble families who turned miners or mine proprietors was that of -the Fiegers, one of whom was an intimate companion of Maximilian I. -The latter, when Fieger died full of years and leaving an astonishing -progeny and an enormous fortune behind him, was present at his old -friend's funeral. His son, Hans Fieger, married Margaret von -Pienzenau, who, on her coming to her husband's home, was accompanied -by a vast cavalcade consisting of four thousand horses, of which those -drawing her coach were shod with silver.[24] - -The mining industry was speedily developed by the immense sums wealthy -merchants in Bavaria and elsewhere were willing to embark in -speculation, or advance upon the security of the mines themselves; and -so skilful and daring did the Schwaz miners become, that later on -their services were requisitioned for use in the mines of other -districts, and for military mining operations against the Turks in -Hungary. In the siege of Vienna in 1529 by the Turks, Soliman the -Magnificent, who invested the city with an army of 300,000 men, was -forced to raise it, after losing nearly a fourth of his men, owing to -the countermining of the Schwaz miners. Two centuries later, the -Schwazers undermined and blew up the splendid and almost impregnable -fortifications of Belgrade before it was ceded to Turkey; and at -various times their services were engaged by the Dukes of Florence and -Piedmont. - -Schwaz, too, has the distinction of having had one of the earliest of -printing presses set up in the town; and matters referring to mining -and mining methods were often referred to the experienced and skilful -miners and engineers of Schwaz. - -Just as was the case with the miners of the not far distant -Principality of Salzburg, those of Schwaz embraced the doctrines of -Luther, and made serious attempts to put down Roman Catholic -clericalism and oppression. On two occasions at least they marched in -considerable numbers upon Innsbruck, but were met at Hall by the -Bishop of Brixen, who prevailed upon them to return to their homes by -promises of redress of their grievances. But though they consented to -do this and did not proceed further down the Inn Thal, in Schwaz -itself the new faith and its supporters became so powerful that at one -time the latter managed to possess themselves of half of the parish -church, in which portion the Lutheran service was performed. -Ultimately they were ejected, and had to meet in a wood near the town, -where two followers of the Reformer, who had been deprived of their -status as Catholic priests, used to preach. - -The appearance some little time later of a Franciscan, who came to -Schwaz with the object of "stiffening" the backs of the Catholics and -stamping out the new faith, led to collisions of a violent character -between the two parties. - -One story, that was very generally accepted as a miracle by the -Catholic population, concerning these disputes, which sometimes were -not confined to words and arguments alone, is as follows. A leader -amongst the reformers is stated to have exclaimed during a heated -discussion, "If Pastor Söll (one of the priests who had accepted -Luther's doctrines) does not preach the true doctrine, may the Devil -carry me up into the Steinjoch." Hardly, we are told, were the words -out of his mouth when the speaker vanished. - -It is unnecessary to add that the Lutheran faith received a heavy blow -from this incident, and the effect of the miracle, establishing, as -the Catholics claimed, the true faith, was further increased when the -unfortunate man who had thus been so suddenly spirited away returned -some time afterwards, confessing his transportation to the Steinjoch, -with a bruised body, and shattered faith in Pastor Söll. - -Later on the mining industry was brought almost to a standstill owing -to religious disputes, and an invasion of Anabaptists. And although -the latter were expelled, and many thousands of those who favoured the -reformed faith were brought back to the true fold through the -instrumentality of the Jesuit fathers from Hall, the mines from this -time commenced to decline in richness, and never recovered their -former productiveness. For a considerable period copper and an -excellent quality of iron was found in large quantities after the -silver gave out, but the place as a mining centre declined more and -more as the years rolled by. - -Schwaz, in addition to its religious dissensions, has in the past -suffered from a visitation of the plague, "when the inhabitants died -off like flies"; and it also suffered terribly in the campaign of -1809. In the latter year the Bavarians under the Duke of Dantzic and -their French allies under De Roi determined to strike terror into the -hearts of the inhabitants of the Inn Thal by burning the town. They -attacked the place, and not content with putting the inhabitants to -the sword practised upon them the most horrible cruelties; more -especially upon the women and young girls; some so revolting as to be -indescribable in print. None were spared; "old and young alike were -outraged, then either slain or thrown into the river or the blazing -ruins which had once been their homes." - -[Sidenote: SCHWAZ PARISH CHURCH] - -Fortunately, although little of the town itself was left standing to -show succeeding generations what ancient Schwaz had been like, owing -to successive occupations by hostile troops at the latter part of the -eighteenth and early part of the nineteenth centuries, the fine parish -church which had been commenced in 1470 (about) and was consecrated in -1502 was less injured than might have been expected. The plan of the -building is remarkable, containing a double nave, each complete with -its aisles, choir, and high altar, the cause of this peculiarity being -the fact that the miners were of sufficient wealth and importance at -the time of its construction to insist upon having a separate church -to themselves apart from the townspeople. Indeed, even nowadays one of -the high altars is known as "the Knappen Hoch Altar," or Miners' High -Altar. In the roof, composed of copper tiles, of which there are said -to be no less than fifteen thousand, provided as a contribution by the -mine-owners and miners, and in the device of crossed pickaxes, -appearing here and there in the decorations of the building, one can -clearly trace its connection with the mining industry, and the -interest the miners themselves showed in its erection. - -The church at various times has been unskilfully restored, but it -still contains some very interesting and fine monuments, that to Hans -Dreyling, a metal-worker and founder, being especially worthy of note. -In it are depicted not only the metal-worker, but his three wives and -children, who are habited as knights, all being under the protection -of St. John the Baptist. This remarkable work is by the famous -founders Alexander Colin of Malines, and the even more famous Hans -Löffler. There are, too, nine altar pieces by Tyrolese painters which -should be carefully noted. - -One finds some interesting painted houses in Schwaz, as in many other -villages and towns of the district of the Inn Thal, and some of the -frescoes, most of which depict religious subjects, are of considerable -merit. - -The town, however, is not one to which many travellers come, or in -which tourists linger, although it is on the main line of railway, and -has considerable interest for those for whom church architecture, -legendary lore, and picturesqueness of a sort possesses attractions. - -[Sidenote: GEORG VON FRUNDSBERG] - -The deserted and ruined castle of the famous Frundsberg (whose name, -by the way, outrivals that of Shakespeare in the many forms in which -it is and can be spelled), a fortress which was there before the dawn -of the Christian Era, and no one seems to know quite how long even -before that, is quite close to the Schwaz. Its history is obscure for -many centuries after the period we have named, and only the barest -fragments have come down to us of the doings and life at Castle -Frundsberg during the eleventh down to the end of the fourteenth -century. It was in the time of "the famous fighter of a fighting -race," Georg von Frundsberg, son of Ulrich, knight of Frundsberg, born -at Mindelheim in 1473, and the founder of the _Landsknechte_, that the -castle and the family appear to have reached their zenith of -prosperity, wealth and fame, the former two characteristics being -chiefly due to Georg's marriage with a wealthy Suabian heiress. He was -"one of many sons, most of whom became distinguished, and three of -whom (Georg himself being one) were much esteemed by the Emperor -Maximilian." Georg was, at a very early age, made a general, and after -the Battle of Regensburg, in 1504, was knighted on the field by -Maximilian, who had witnessed his astonishing bravery and feats of -arms. When only four and twenty, he was esteemed a skilled and -unequalled leader of men, and in his campaigns against the Swiss and -Venetians he was wonderfully successful. Some most astonishing feats -of personal strength of his are recorded; how he could push an -ordinary man over with one of his fingers; could catch a runaway horse -and bring him to his haunches with one hand; and many a time clove his -opponents in two halves with a blow from his two-handled sword. It is -not unlikely that his immense natural strength had a good deal to do -with his being exalted into a popular hero, and being made the central -figure of many legendary tales and astonishing romances. Of him they -sang-- - - "Georg von Frundsberg, - Von grosser Sterk, - Ein theurer Held; - Behielt das Feld - In Streit und Krieg. - Den Feind niederslieg - In aller Schlacht. - Er legt Got zu die Er und Macht." - -Which maybe roughly translated: "George of Frundsberg, of marvellous -strength; a hero of renown; invincible upon the field of combat and -war; victorious in every battle. The honour of which success he gave -to God." - -He threw in his lot with the Lutherans, and commanded the troops under -Charles V., and was one of the knights who were concerned in the -attack upon Rome. - -Although at one time immensely wealthy, when he was at last taken with -an apoplectic seizure during the siege of the latter city, and carried -home to die at Mindelheim, he was a ruined man. He had spared none of -his wealth in the prosecution of expeditions in which he had been -engaged, where, as often as not, the kings and emperors on whose -behalf they were undertaken failed to pay the troops. To his credit, -Georg von Frundsberg seems to have invariably paid the men himself; -and we are told he seldom took the booty which fell to his share, -selecting only some comparatively valueless, though generally -historically interesting objects, such as flags and banners, a sword -(jewelled sometimes, it is true, but still comparatively unimportant -monetarily compared with the vast treasure he might have taken as his -share), or the helmet of a conquered challenger, preferring that his -men should be well paid by the major portion of the loot for their -bravery and endurance. In those days money advanced by nobles and -others to warring princes to carry on expeditions was generally not -recovered from the actual borrowers, but repaid by robbery of the -conquered, out of the booty seized, or by means of the ransoms paid by -distinguished prisoners. So it happened that Georg von Frundsberg, -scorning these means, was gradually ruined, for neither Charles V. nor -Maximilian saw to it that the vast sums he from time to time expended -on their behalf during their campaigns were repaid to him. - -His motto, which ran, "The more opponents the greater honour," was -characteristic of himself and of his race. But with his death, and the -financial embarrassments which afflicted his heirs, owing to the heavy -mortgages on the estates which he had left behind him, with no means -of discharging the same, the Frundsbergs declined rapidly in power, -and the race came to an end in the male line on the death of his son -George (one of nine children) in 1586,[25] though there are -descendants in the female line of the Frundsbergs living at the -present time. - -The castle afterwards fell into ruins, and its history may be said to -have ceased with the close of the sixteenth century. The Bavarians, -however, made use of the ruined walls for "cover" during the campaign -of 1809, when they were attacked by the forces raised by Hofer and his -comrades. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[21] W. A. Baillie Grohman, "Tyrol: the Land in the Mountains." - -[22] The Emperor is stated to have trained and fired the first shot -himself. - -[23] Mr. W. A. Baillie-Grohman. - -[24] One account states that the coach itself was drawn by the four -thousand horses! - -[25] Some authorities give the year as 1580.--C. H. - - - - -CHAPTER XII - - THROUGH THE OBER-INNTHAL: ZIRL, ITS CHURCH, LEGENDS, AND - PAINTED HOUSES--THE MARTINSWAND AND - MAXIMILIAN--SCHARNITZ--LANDECK--BLUDENZ--BREGENZ AND ITS - LEGEND OF THE MAID - - -From Schwaz to Zirl,[26] beyond Innsbruck, is between twenty-nine and -thirty miles, either by train or road. The latter is quite good for -cycling, and those who are not cyclists or pedestrians will find to -make the journey by carriage a delightful way of reaching the -picturesque little village from which the ascent of the Gross Solstein -may be made, and that also of the more romantic and famous -Martinswand. - -The village is, unlike many of those lying in the Unter-Innthal, east -of Innsbruck, an agricultural one, with most of the houses built in -straight rows, and having quaint and picturesque, but not very clean -or salubrious, courtyards in the rear. Some of the most charming -groups of peasants, ox-carts, and "farm scenes" are to be found at -Zirl, which is a good deal visited by artists, and invites the -attention of amateur photographers. - -In most cases the houses have their dwelling-rooms and sleeping -accommodation on the first floor, which is reached by flights of -steps, and the exteriors of the dwellings are made picturesque and -quaint by the projecting gables of carved wood, and the galleries -which jut out beneath them, where the corn, herbs, and other produce -is either laid out or hung up to dry. As in other villages of the Inn -Thal, one sees the love of colour in the delicate pink, blue (almost a -lavender), and green tints of the stucco-work on the house-fronts and -walls. Zirl is a picture-village, too, and on the houses, as one -drives or walks through the narrow streets, one catches glimpses of -paintings of Virgins, saints engaged in vigorous and deadly combats -with evil-looking monsters of the dragon tribe, and here and there, -set in a niche in the wall, a tiny figure of a Madonna, saint, or -crucifix protected with glass, and often surrounded with a chaplet or -bunches of withered flowers. - -One of the Inns, named "the Regenbogen," has a most vivid and even -startling representation of a rainbow (which gives it its name) -painted over the arched doorway. - -The church of Zirl is chiefly interesting from the frescoes it -contains, which are the work of Schöpf. The churchyard is a spot in -which to linger. It is instinct with the pathos which comes in a -measure from partial neglect, and picturesqueness of environment. - -One of the little town's chief attractions to the antiquarian and the -student of ancient and curious things will undoubtedly be the -Calvarienberg, which lies a little to the north; green and beautiful, -and crowned by a picturesque pilgrimage church. The ascent is -comparatively easy, and well repays one for the climb, not only on -account of the interest of the "Calvary," to form which the natural -rocks have been adapted, but by reason of the delightful views which -are obtainable from the plateau. - -The path is dotted here and there by tiny buff-coloured chapels, -painted a sky blue inside, marking the stations of the cross; and from -almost all, as one turns round and faces the way one has come, or -looks out over the valley below, there is some charming view, or tiny -tree-framed vista, to arouse one's interest and delight one's eyes. -The church, were it not so isolated, and set amid greenery, and -surrounded with flower-bedecked grass, would strike one as garish, so -bright in tone are the colours with which it is adorned. But somehow -or other there, amid silence scarcely ever disturbed by the noises of -the village and only occasionally broken by the musical tinkle of cow -bells, and in a sunshine and air which is so bright and breezy and -clear, one's artistic sense seems to rest unshocked by the vividness -of the distemper and paint, and the crudity of the decorations. - -[Sidenote: THE MARTINSWAND] - -The village is, of course, very closely connected with several -incidents in the defence of Tyrol against the various Bavarian -invasions; and in the immediate neighbourhood is the Martinswand, -which rises sheer from the valley below Zirl, and was the scene, -according to tradition, of a perilous hunting adventure of the Emperor -Maximilian. The story is as follows: It was on Easter Monday, in the -year 1493,[27] when "Kaiser Max," as he was familiarly and -affectionately called by his Tyrolese subjects, was staying at -Weierburg, that he determined to set out on one of his favourite -hunting expeditions on the Zirlergebirge. There are many accounts of -what happened, but one of the most credited says that the chamois -which the Emperor had been stalking suddenly led him down the -precipitous face of the Martinswand. - -[Sidenote: MAXIMILIAN'S EXPLOIT] - -Intrepid hunter as he was, however, the steepness of the terrible -descent, which suddenly opened up beneath his feet, did not quench his -ardour for the chase nor deter him. But unfortunately, in his haste in -scrambling down the rocks, the iron nails in his hunting boots were -torn out one by one, until when he at last reached a rocky ledge -scarcely a foot in width there was but a single spike left in either -of them. To descend further was impossible, and upon glancing upward -along the path he had come, the Emperor at once saw that retreat by -the same way was equally hazardous. So there he hung literally -between earth and sky, visible as a mere speck from the valley which -yawned beneath him. A less fearless sportsman might well have been -unnerved by the position in which he found himself, or exhausted by -the strain put upon him. But the Emperor was made of tough and -enduring stuff, and his nerves were iron. Not only did he manage to -retain his foothold at that dizzy height, but he succeeded in nerving -himself to look about him, and after doing so for some time discovered -near by a small cleft or cavity in the rock which would afford him at -least a better foothold, if not actual protection. - -The members of his hunting party who had followed him to the edge of -the precipitous Martinswand now looked down, but were unable to -determine what had become of Maximilian. And none from below in the -valley could, of course, see him, even if he had not been partly -hidden, first, by the ledge of rock and then by the cave, from the -fact that he was more than a thousand feet above them. At last, -however, when his probable situation became known to his followers and -to the inhabitants of Zirl, prayers for his safety and ultimate escape -were offered up in the church; and the priests also brought the Holy -Sacrament out to the top of the Martinswand, and there again offered -prayers for the Emperor's deliverance. - -His retainers, huntsmen, and companions in the chase gazed up or down, -as the case might be, helplessly and hopelessly at him, and to them no -human aid seemed to be possible. Just as every one was about to -abandon hope (one version of the occurrence tells us), a daring -huntsman, named Oswald Zips, appeared, having himself climbed down the -precipice in pursuit of his quarry. - -Surprised to find the Emperor, he called out, "Hullo! What brings you -here?" - - [Illustration: AUTUMN IN S. TYROL] - -And the former, no doubt, relieved in mind and not disposed to stand -upon ceremony or resent so unconventional a greeting, replied, "I am -on the look out." - -To which the newcomer replied, "And so am I. Shall we venture down -together?" - -And upon the Emperor agreeing to make the attempt--after, according to -various accounts, having spent from twenty-four to seventy-two hours -in his perilous position--they set out to descend the remainder of the -cliff face, and ultimately succeeded in doing so in safety. The daring -hunter (who various accounts say was a brigand, and others an outlaw), -to whom a secret path was known, was naturally well rewarded by the -grateful monarch, and ultimately was ennobled with the title of -Hollaner von Hohenfelsen; the last word, "High Rock," commemorating -the incident. As is perhaps natural, some accounts place a -supernatural aspect upon the Emperor's deliverance, and state that it -was an angel which guided him to safety, sent by Heaven in answer to -the prayers of the priests and people and the Emperor's trust in -Providence. - -Amongst the treasures of Schloss Ambras is the monstrance in which the -Host was carried by the priests of Zirl when they celebrated Mass for -the comfort of the Emperor on Martinswand and offered up prayers for -his deliverance. - -Maximilian, finding afterwards that many of the people of Zirl and the -district were determined to make the perilous descent to the little -cave which had afforded him shelter and foothold, employed some of the -Schwaz miners to cut a path down to it and to enlarge the cavity, -which became known as the Max-Höhle. In the cave was placed a -crucifix, with figures of the Virgin and St. John on either side, of -sufficiently large size to be visible from the valley below. The -cavern can be reached by this path (or one made since) in about an -hour and a half; but the climb is distinctly one which should be -attempted only by the clear-headed and sure-footed. A very excellent -view of the "hole" used to be obtainable from the ruins of the little -hunting-box and chapel to St. Martin which Maximilian afterwards -erected upon the green knoll opposite to it, known as the -Martins-buhel, but now private property. - -Those who stop at Zirl and visit the Martinswand should not fail to -proceed a few miles further northward to the pretty little village of -Seefeld. On the way along the six miles of winding and picturesque -road one passes Fragenstein, once a strong fortress and afterwards -converted by "Kaiser Max" into one of his numerous hunting seats, -which lie scattered about the Inn Thal and the district round about. - -There is quite a romantic story of buried treasure in connection with -ruined Fragenstein, in which a huntsman clad in green is mixed up, who -appears periodically and invites the peasants by his gestures to come -and assist him in digging up the treasure. Several attempts have been -made to discover the latter in past times, but all have been -frustrated when success appeared to be certain. On one occasion the -peasants of the valley say those who were digging, and had worked hard -for many days turning up the soil in every direction, actually had the -metal chest, in which the treasure is reputed to lie buried, in sight, -when a terrific storm burst over the valley, and when it had subsided -all traces of their work had been washed away or otherwise -obliterated, and the clue was never again discovered. The road to -Seefeld, though tempting for pedestrians, is steep, especially up to -Leiten and Reit; but those who walk may take some short cuts on the -curves, and will be well repaid by the pretty scenery and fresh, -invigorating air. - -Neither at Leiten nor Reit is there much to detain the traveller--a -few picturesque houses; nothing more. And so on to Seefeld. In -connection with the village and its Heilige Blutskapelle there is one -of those many legendary stories, of which there are so great a number -known to Tyrolese Folk-lore. - -Many centuries ago there appears to have lived at Seefeld a man named -Oswald Milser, who was rich and powerful and generous both to the -Church and to his poorer neighbours. His one besetting sin, however, -was pride, and so one day when he went to take the Easter Eucharist he -insisted that to distinguish him from the other communicants and mark -his importance the priest should give him one of the larger wafers -reserved for the use of the priests alone. Afraid to offend Milser, -who had been a generous supporter of the Church and a giver of large -alms, the priest complied with his request. No sooner, however, was -the host placed upon his tongue than the weight of it bore Milser to -the earth. And although in his terror and predicament he clung to the -altar, and then to the altar steps as he sunk further, the latter gave -way, and he continued to sink lower and lower, till in his terror he -called upon the priest to take the host back from him. This the priest -did, and when Oswald Milser had recovered from his fright he -recognized that the circumstance was a lesson to his pride, and -ultimately he gave his goods to the poor and the Church, and entered a -monastery to lead a life of penance and contemplation. - -[Sidenote: A MIRACULOUS ROSEBUSH] - -When his wife was told the miracle, she refused to credit it, saying -that sooner than do so she would believe that a dead rose-tree could -blossom. The story goes on to tell how immediately "a rose-tree which -was near by and had been dead for a long time, put forth the most -beautiful blooms, and so confounded the wicked woman that she went out -of her mind, rushed from her house, and was never more seen in the -flesh." But her spirit was often heard at night, wailing and moaning -on the mountain-side. - -It was to contain this miraculous host which had confounded Oswald -Milser's pride that the Archduke Ferdinand, in 1575, built a special -little chapel on the left side of the fine fourteenth-century Gothic -church of Seefeld. This is even nowadays an object of veneration, to -which a considerable number of pilgrims come. The altar-piece is a -fine one, and was well restored about five-and-thirty years ago. The -statues which adorn it are those of the favourite legendary heroes of -Tyrol, St. Oswald and St. Sigismund, whilst the subjects of the -bas-reliefs are the incidents of Biblical history, known as "The -Mysteries of the Rosary." Amongst the "treasures" of the church are a -remarkably fine and interesting crystal reliquary and crown, given by -the Archduchess Eleonora. - -From Seefeld there are many interesting excursions to be made into the -picturesque Mittenwald district, which lies to the north, upon the -Bavarian frontier. - -Scharnitz lies at the point where the Hinderan and Karwendel valleys -unite. It has memories of many a struggle against the Bavarian -invaders, and more particularly of the defence of the fortress Porta -Claudia, built during the Thirty Years' War by Claudia de Medici, by -an Englishman named Swinburne, an ancestor of the late Algernon -Charles Swinburne the poet. He was an officer in the Austrian service, -and had a force of only 600 against Marshal Ney, with nearly 20,000, -and made so gallant and stubborn a defence that when the garrison at -length surrendered to such vastly superior numbers they made their own -terms and were allowed to march out as prisoners of war whilst -retaining their side-arms. They were sent as prisoners to -Aix-la-Chapelle, but the "colours" were saved by one of the garrison, -a Tyrolese, who made his escape with them wound round his body. He was -sought for amid the mountains for many weeks, but was not recaptured, -and lived to, later on, reach Vienna and hand the precious colours to -his gallant chief, who had so well defended the fortress. - -We reached Telfs from Seefeld by road. The village, which boasts a -large cotton factory, is prettily situated and pleasant, but there is -nothing in the place itself to detain the traveller. The same remark -applies to Imst, once given over to the breeding of canaries, which -were so celebrated for their singing qualities that they were exported -to all parts of Europe. The old Inn, however, is worth inspection -should a stop be made at the little town, and there are many -excursions of a charming character to be made in the district round -about. - -[Sidenote: LANDECK] - -Landeck is a prettily situated and important little town in a wide -bend of the Inn Thal, having a fine prospect of environing mountain -summits occupying both sides of the river and dominated by Castle -Landeck, whose grim, square, and battlemented tower forms a striking -feature of the landscape. Another prominent building, which at once -strikes one on approaching the place either by road or rail, is the -fine fifteenth-century parish church standing on the slope of the -hill, which is crowned by the castle. - -The church was founded by two natives of the place, only the Christian -names of whom appear to have survived, who, having lost their two -children in the forest near by, vowed that if the latter were found -they would show their gratitude by erecting a church to the Holy -Virgin. Hardly had the vow been uttered, the legend states, when the -distracted parents saw a bear and a wolf advancing towards them, each -bearing a child unharmed in its mouth! - -The spire of the church, which has a curious double bulb surmounting -it, is of considerably later date than the building itself, which, -although thoroughly restored some forty years ago, was done very -carefully and sympathetically, and preserves many of its most -interesting architectural features, including some very early -sculpture. In the churchyard, from which such a delightful prospect of -the valley of the Inn is obtained, there are two monuments, which -should not be missed by any one interested in antiquities and history. -One is to Oswald von Schrofenstein, dating from early in the fifteenth -century; the other takes the form of a little Gothic chapel, dating -from 1870, which was erected to the memory of the Landeckers who fell -whilst assisting to defend the Italian frontier of Tyrol during the -Austro-Italian campaign of 1866. - -[Sidenote: A TYROLESE VICTORY] - -Landeck bore a brave part in the War of the Spanish Succession in -1703, when Maximilian, Elector of Bavaria, joined forces with the -French and Italians against Austria, and invaded Tyrol. The Tyrolese, -always ready to speedily assemble in defence of their beloved country, -soon made the main road over the Brenner impossible of passage by the -enemy, and Maximilian thought to elude the sharpshooters who swarmed -upon the hillsides commanding that way, by sending his forces round by -the Finstermunz and Ober-Innthal. They reached the neighbourhood of -Landeck without much opposition; but the Tyrolese had gathered to -dispute their further advance on the first favourable opportunity. - -The Judge of the district, one Martin Sterzinger, had speedily -summoned all the available Landsturm forces of the neighbourhood, and -worked out a plan of campaign. The latter were to permit the enemy to -advance until they were well into the gorge, and then attack them so -fiercely and from so commanding a position as to have some hope--in -spite of their greater numbers--of severely and finally defeating -them. They were in consequence allowed to advance into the narrow -gorge, the road through which was spanned by the Pontlatzerbrucke. But -before they entered the defile the bridge had been destroyed by the -Tyrolese. The Bavarians, who were compelled to traverse a steep and -narrow mountain path, when they came in sight of the destroyed bridge -at once realized that they were entrapped. The precipitous sides of -the hills above them were practically unscalable, and there was no way -now the bridge was destroyed by which they could cross the roaring, -rushing Inn to safety on the other side. In the panic which ensued -numbers fell or were pushed from the road into the river, to be swept -swiftly away. - - [Illustration: LANDECK AND ITS ANCIENT FORTRESS] - -Then suddenly the heights above literally swarmed with Tyrolese, who -had remained hidden until the right moment to attack, who poured into -the huddled and panic-stricken mass of the enemy a hail of bullets, -supplemented by stones and pieces of rock hurled down by those who -were not possessed of guns. Only a mere handful of the force was able -to turn back and escape along the path by which they had come, and -these were speedily overtaken by the active mountaineers and made -prisoners. Not one, we are told, made good his escape to bear news of -the disaster to headquarters, and thus the French and Bavarian -commanders were for some considerable time in doubt as to what had -occurred. In the end they learned how their immensely superior force -had been literally cut to pieces and wiped out, and perhaps also to -hold the "rough jackets" of Landeck and the Inn Thal in greater -respect than they had done before. The victory of July 1st, as it is -known amongst the many other successes of the peasants' campaign -against the invaders of their land, is celebrated every year by a -procession and _fête_. - -Besides being a most interesting little town, Landeck is yearly -growing more popular with holiday makers and rest seekers as a fine -centre from which to make some of the most delightful excursions and -short tours in the whole of the Inn Thal. The chief of these are -either in the immediate neighbourhood into the Lotzer Thal, and -Medriol Thal, or along and by way of the splendid Finstermunz high -road to Sulden, Trafoi, and other smaller places. There is also, of -course, the famous Stilfserjoch, the highest carriage-road in Europe, -and the pretty villages and valleys of the Kaunser Thal to invite a -long stay amid surroundings which are scarcely excelled in any other -district of North Tyrol. - -But not merely days and weeks, but even months could be pleasantly -spent with Landeck as a base from which to explore the numberless -beautiful and almost unknown smaller valleys and gorges which run out -of the Inn Valley north and south, and in the former case lead one to -that wonderland of the Bavarian highlands, with its many ancient and -Royal castles, lovely little lakes, and fertile, flower-decked -pastures. - -Soon after leaving Landeck, either by rail or road, one crosses the -boundary which separates the Ober-Innthal from the Vorarlberg. If by -the latter, as one approaches the summit of the Arlberg, which is 5910 -feet above sea-level, one catches sight of an immense crucifix -overshadowing the road, near which are the two posts marking the -boundary line. The old road was opened for traffic nearly a century -and a quarter ago, but a considerable portion of that now generally -used, which is more sheltered and protected, was not made until 1825. -By the magnificent Arlberg Pass route one can reach Bregenz, and to -make the journey in this way by carriage or afoot is most delightful, -though the railway, after the long tunnel is passed, is very -interesting and picturesque. - -However, comparatively few tourists and travellers nowadays devote the -time necessary to traverse the Arlberg to Bregenz by road, and so -Bludenz must be included in the itinerary we are describing. The -little town, which has a bustling and prosperous air, though it is -decidedly hot in summer, still possesses a considerable number of its -older buildings and houses. The ancient château or castle of -Gayenhofen is now used for Government purposes; it forms a picturesque -landmark in the town. - -Bludenz will always have a place in the romantic history of Tyrol from -the fact that it was here that the well-beloved "Frederick with the -Empty Purse" came while an outlaw and in fear for his life. He made -himself known to the innkeeper where he sought refuge, who, though -embarrassed, was delighted to shelter the popular hero. His view was -shared by the rest of the inhabitants of the town, who when summoned -by the Emperor Sigismund to deliver up their prince declined to do so, -saying, "they had sworn fealty to Duke Frederick and the house of -Austria, and they would not betray him." - -Frederick, though doubtless touched by the loyalty of the Bludenz -folk, knew that if he remained amongst them the result would probably -be the dispatch of a force by the Emperor to capture him, and the -possible destruction of the town by way of reprisal. So he stole -quietly away, and Bludenz was saved. - -The old town is well worth a few hours' stay, and there are many -picturesque "bits" to be discovered for sketch book and camera in the -older houses and side alleys, even if time will not permit of a -sufficiently long sojourn to allow one to visit the pretty Montfacon -Thal, with its legend of a beautiful maiden who lived up in the -mountain guarding a hidden treasure, which she is condemned to watch -over until some one is bold enough to kiss three times a huge toad -which lives hard by, and also guards the wealth that is to reward the -bold rescuer of the maiden. - -[Sidenote: FELDKIRCH] - -Feldkirch is the last important town on the route to Bregenz. -Pleasantly situated near the grim gorges through which the river Ill -rushes with ever-increasing rapidity and force to join the Rhine, -there is much of interest in the quaint streets, and the arcades which -run in front of many of the houses. - -The town itself is shut in by the mountains and dominated by the old -fortress of Shattenburg, now used as a retreat or home for the poor; -and for this reason perhaps is less resorted to than it otherwise -might be. There are, however, a large number of most interesting -excursions to be made in the neighbourhood, and the fifteenth-century -church is a fine one, with a good "Descent from the Cross" by a native -artist, Wolfgang Huber, and a remarkable and handsome pulpit, both -dating from the early years of the sixteenth century. Costume, too, is -occasionally seen in Feldkirch, and on one Sunday, the occasion of a -festival, there were quite a number of women wearing the old-time -steeple-crowned, brimless beaver hats--in shape somewhat like that of -a Russian _Moujick_ or the busby of a Grenadier--wide white collars, -embroidered bodices, and handsome brocaded aprons. - -The last place in Tyrol when leaving it by the Arlberg route is the -most delightful and ancient town of Bregenz, standing upon the -north-eastern shore of Lake Constance. It is the capital of the -Vorarlberg, and in this delightful corner of Tyrol there is no town of -greater charm or historic interest. Above it rises the picturesque -Gebhardsberg, from the summit of which there is one of the most -celebrated panoramic views in Tyrol, embracing as it does the -beautiful lake, the Appenzell Mountains, and the rapidly flowing -Rhine. - -There are really two towns in Bregenz. The old town, shaped like a -quadrilateral, standing on the hill which ages ago was the site of the -Roman settlement and castle, with two ancient gates, one of which has -been pulled down; and the newer town, with its shady promenades, quay, -modern buildings, and air of bustle during the tourist season. - -[Sidenote: A LEGEND OF BREGENZ] - -Irrespective of its unusually beautiful situation, one finds in -Bregenz much to interest and detain. It is a truly ancient place, with -much history--some of it of a romantic kind--attached to it. In the -Middle Ages, indeed, the overlords of the town and district were so -powerful that their house supplied the Emperor Charlemagne with a -bride, concerning whom there is a legendary and highly romantic tale. - - [Illustration: CHURCH INTERIOR, TYROL] - -It would appear from this story that Charlemagne was of a more than -usually suspicious nature, and by no means one of those complaisant -husbands with which the Mediæval tales have familiarized us. An old -lover of Hildegarde, having seen her married to the Emperor with great -distress of mind, in his wrath against her for preferring even an -Emperor to himself, got ear of Charlemagne, and so succeeded in -poisoning the latter's mind against his bride, that he either divorced -or repudiated her, and married a Lombardian princess called -Desiderata. - -Accepting her fate resignedly, Hildegarde eventually found her way to -Rome, where she devoted herself to the care of the sick, and -especially of the sick pilgrims who came to the "Eternal City." In -course of time, so the story goes, her revengeful lover, whose name, -Taland, is almost as common a one in Tyrol as Smith in England, having -lost his sight, came on a pilgrimage, and whilst in Rome was cared for -by Hildegarde, "whose tender and saintly hands," we are told, "not -only restored his physical sight, but also his moral perception of -right and wrong." - -He was so overcome with remorse when he learned to whom, under -Providence, he owed his restoration to sight, that he confessed his -fault to Hildegarde, and insisted upon accompanying her to -Charlemagne, to whom he also confessed, and proved Hildegarde to have -been blameless. The Emperor at once restored her to favour and honour. - -In another story connected with Bregenz, which was made the subject of -a poem by the late Adelaide Ann Proctor, one has preserved an incident -connected with the heroic conduct of a Bregenz woman in saving the -town from surprise and destruction by the Swiss. There are several -versions of the story, which dates from 1408, but probably, as it is -of a legendary character, the one given in the ballad is as correct as -any other. - -Unhappily, the Bregenz folk of to-day appear to know little of this -heroine; and on one occasion on which we visited the town, and made a -search for the effigy of the Maid and her steed on the gate of the old -castle, or walls of the upper town, we were unable to find it. No one -seemed to know the story of the "Maid of Bregenz," and an old lady, -who had a temporary stall outside the gate for the sale of cakes and -other refreshments, became quite irascible upon our persisting in the -belief that there must have been a "Maid," and that she (the old lady) -ought to know the legend. - -"There is no 'Maid of Bregenz,'" she said angrily at last. Adding, -after a pause, during which she looked us up and down as though to -decide upon our nationality, "But mad English people have asked me -hundreds of times about her. I know nothing. There is no more to be -said." - -And with this she returned to her perusal of the paper she had been -reading when we accosted her, and we had to be content. - -We made our way down the somewhat rugged and steep road to the lower -town a little crestfallen, although the view of the lake in the late -afternoon sunshine of a July day was exquisite beyond description, the -water deep blue and green in patches, with the incoming and outgoing -boats and steamers leaving frothy-white or rippling wakes behind them -almost as long as they themselves remained in sight. One determination -we came to. It was in future not to inquire too closely into such -pretty and poetical stories as that of the "Maid of Bregenz," and not -to allow our desire for legendary or antiquarian knowledge to permit -us to run the risk of further disillusionment.[28] - -We did not find the effigy of "the maid and her milk-white steed," on -which she had ridden over the Swiss frontier and swum across the Rhine -to warn the inhabitants of her old home of a projected attack by the -Swiss amongst whom she had gone to dwell in service. The genial -proprietor of the Oesterreichischer Hof, we found, had heard of "the -Maid." Alas! not from his fellow-townsfolk (who should have cherished -her memory), but, like the old lady in the upper town, from English -tourists, who had, doubtless, climbed the steep ascent on a similar -errand of inquiry and research to our own. - -"Maid" or no maid, however, Bregenz is delightful, and well deserves -the title of "pearl of the Vorarlberg" which has been bestowed upon -it. In its quaint old streets, its Capuchin Convent, which is so -prominent a feature, standing as it does upon a wooded knoll of the -Gebhardsberg, and its fine church, to the south on another eminence, -with an ancient and weather-worn tower, there is plenty of interest. -Picturesque the place most certainly is, and the effect is greatly -heightened by the near presence of the lake, which stretches away in -front of the town to fair Constance in the far distance. - -[Sidenote: FAREWELL, TYROL] - -In leaving Tyrol by way of beautiful Bregenz, washed as it is by the -waters of one of the most delightful of Swiss lakes, one carries with -one a last impression which is fragrant with the memories of a -hospitable race, charming scenery, and innumerable things of historic, -artistic, and antiquarian interest. There is, indeed, no other gate -through which one would rather leave this "Land within the Mountains," -which, as yet unspoiled by crowds of tourists and general -sophistication and the deterioration which arises therefrom, lures one -to return to it again and again. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[26] By a strange coincidence, whilst the following description of -this interesting and charming village was actually being written, the -news of its almost total destruction by fire reached the author, -necessitating the omission of some details. Many of the houses, -however, have been rebuilt, in much the same style as formerly.--C. H. - -[27] Some authorities give the date as being several years -earlier.--C. H. - -[28] It is possible that Miss Proctor's poem ("A Legend of Bregenz") -is founded upon the legendary story of Ehre Guta, who is reputed to -have delivered the country-folk of the Bregenz district from an attack -of the Appenzellers some time during the early part of the fifteenth -century.--C. H. - - - - -INDEX - - A - - Abbey of Wilten, 17 - - Abel of Cologne, work of, 99 - - Absam, 139-142 - and Jakob Stainer, maker of violins, 139 - dragon legend of, 140 - painted houses at, 140 - story of "Miraculous Window" at, 141 - - A buried city, 249 - - Adventures of Oswald von Wolkenstein, 217-220 - - Aeni, Pons, 7 - - A fifteenth-century "blue stocking," 194 - - Aguntum (Innichen) Station, 9 - - Albianum (Kufstein), 7 - - "A Legend of Bregenz," 326 - - Alemanni, the, 11 - - Alpine flowers at Cortina, 267 - - Alt, Salome, and Archbishop von Raitenau, 174 - - Altissimo di Nago, 253 - - Ambras, Castle, 113 - Court at, 121 - early history of, 114 - the Hoch Schloss, 123 - the tourney ground, 125 - traditions, 124 - treasures at, 123 - - Ancient palaces of Trent, 243-247 - - Andechs, family of, 16 - - Anif, castle of, 179 - - Anna Katharina Gonzaga of Mantua, 31 - - Anton Gump, Landhaus of, 84 - - Aquila Nera Inn, Cortina, 266 - - Araba, 273 - - Archduke Ferdinand, 29 - Leopold, 31 - - Arco, 251 - church at, 251 - - Arlberg tunnel, 72 - - Arms, summons to, 41 - - Arno, Bishop of Salzburg, 156 - - Art, collection at Innsbruck, 89 - - Art, world-famous collection, 30 - - Arthur, King of England, 93 - - Arzl, pilgrimage chapel of, 133 - - Augusta Vindelicorum, 6 - - Austerlitz, battle of, 38 - - Austria, emperors of, 32 - - Austrian, defeat of forces at Wagram, 43 - - - B - - Bad Ratzes, 278 - - Baiovarii, 12 - - Battle of Austerlitz, 38 - Custozza, 50 - Giants, 106 - Leipsic, 49 - Marengo and Hohenlinden, 37 - Naïssus, 11 - near the Brenner, 4 - Sadowa, 50 - Spinges, 228, 229 - Vercelli, 3 - - Bavaria, Duke Louis of, 25 - - Bavarian occupation, 39 - troops enter Tyrol, 43 - - Bavarians, 12 - - Belluno, cathedral at, 270 - - Bible incidents, oral versions of, 57 - - Biener, William, and Rattenberg, 291 - story of, 291-293 - - Bishop of Freisingen, 20 - Passau, 15 - - Bisson, General, surrender of, 41 - - Black Death, 21 - - Bludenz, 322 - and "Frederick of the Empty Purse," 322, 323 - - Bohemia, Prince John of, 19 - - Bozen, 206-210 - Calvarienberg, near, 211 - description of, 206, 207 - fine houses, 208 - Franciscan monastery at, 210 - history of, 207 - Laubengasse at, 209 - Parish Church, 209 - (Pons Drusi), 8 - Sarnthal costumes at, 210 - - Bozen, statue of von Vogelweide at, 209 - - Bregenz, 324-327 - Capuchin convent, 327 - - Brenner route, the, 3 - road, the, 8 - history of, 10 - - Brixen, 226-228 - cathedral of, 227, 228 - bishop's palace at, 228 - - Brixlegg, 293 - peasant plays at, 293, 294 - - Buchenstein, 270 - - Büchsenhausen, castle of, 97 - - Burg, the, 80 - - - C - - Campo Formio, treaty of, 37 - - Canazei, 274 - - Caprile, 271 - - Castle Ambras, 113 - Court at, 121 - early history of, 114 - the Hoch Schloss, 123 - the tourney ground, 125 - traditions of, 124 - treasures at, 123 - - Castle Tyrol, 16 - siege of, 22 - - Castle of Büchsenhausen, 97 - Frundsberg, 303 - Lizzana, 248 - Runkelstein, 211 - - Castle of Runkelstein, frescoes of, 211, 212 - Schonna, near Meran, 203 - Starkenberg, 68 - Tratzberg, 295 - Trautson, 231 - Trostburg, 216, 217 - - Cathedral, Belluno, 270 - Brixen, 227, 228 - Salzburg, 171, 172 - - Cathedral, Salzburg, burning of, 171 - Trent, 241 - - Catherine of Saxony, 27 - - Catholic persecutions, 161 - - Cavalese, 276 - bishop's palace at, 276 - - Cell, Maximilian's, 85 - - Cenotaph, Maximilian's, description of panels surrounding, 99 - description of, 98 - - Ceremonials, pathetic, 60 - - Chapel, pilgrimage, of Maria Larch, 145 - Silver, Innsbruck, 97 - Silver, Innsbruck, statues in, 103 - - Charlemagne, empire of, 13, 14 - reforms by, 15 - - Chasteler, General, 42 - - Church of the Servites, Innsbruck, 84 - Jesuit, Innsbruck, 85 - of Maria Waldrast, near Matrei, 231 - Madonna alle Laste, near Trent, 247 - - Cimbri, the invasion of, 2 - - Civil war, 21, 25 - - Conquest of the country, Roman, 6 - - Constance, Council of, 25 - - Cortina, 265, 266 - church at, 266 - famous inn at, 266 - festivals at, 265 - frescoes at, 266 - - Costumes of Innsbruck, 75 - at Feldkirch, 323 - at St. Ulrich, 226 - national, of Tyrol, 82 - the Sarnthal, 210 - Tyrol, 63 - - Council of Constance, 25 - Trent, 236-240 - - Counts of Tyrol, 16, 17 - - Court at Castle Ambras, 121 - Innsbruck, 80 - - Customs, curious wedding, 64 - quaint Tyrolean, 59 - - Custozza, battle of, 50 - - - D - - Dante and the Castle Lizzana, 248 - Trentino, 242 - Val Sacra, 243 - - "Das Land im Gebirge," 13 - - Death, Black, 21 - - Defregger, Franz, historical masterpieces of, 90 - - Dialect, concerning, 225 - - Diaries of early travel, 14 - of the Bishop of Passau, 15 - - Dolomite district, 255 - groups, 261, 262 - scenery, 258 - - Dolomites, 254-280 - characteristics of the, 260 - formation of, 256, 257 - inns and hotels in the, 259 - theories concerning, 256 - theories of origin of, 257 - touring in, 259 - - Dreiheiligen Kirche (Holy Trinity), 86 - - Drusi, Pons (Bozen), 8 - - Drusus, 4, 6 - - Duke Ernest, 25 - Frederick, 24, 25 - Louis of Bavaria, 25 - Sigismund, 26 - - - E - - Eggenthal, famous waterfall in the, 213 - - Eleanora, daughter of James I. of Scotland, 194 - Vincenzo of Mantua, 31 - - Emperor Theodoric the Goth, 93 - - Empire, Charlemagne's, 14 - - "Empty Purse, Frederick of the," 24 - - Enneberger, 271 - - Epiphany performances, 60 - - Eppans, the, 16 - - Ernest, Duke--reconciliation of Duke Frederick, 25 - - Etruria, ancient language of, 53 - - Evangelic Union, 170 - - - F - - Falzarego Pass, 270 - - Fassa Thal, 275, 279 - - Feldkirch, 323 - costumes at, 323 - engagement near, 37 - - Ferdinand, Archduke, 29 - Tomb of, 102 - - Festival of St. Vigilius, 234 - - Festivals at Cortina, 265 - - First Counts of Tyrol, 17 - - Fleimse Thal, 276 - - Florus, the historian, 5 - - Franz Defregger, historical masterpieces of, 90 - - Franzenfeste, 229 - - Frauenberg, Conrad of, 23 - - Frederick, Duke, 24 - reconciliation of Duke Ernest, 25 - of the "Empty Pocket," story of, 73 - - Freisingen, Bishop of, 20 - - French, Bavarian and Saxon troops enter Tyrol, 43 - - French Revolution, 36 - - Frundsberg, Georg von, 308-310 - - Fugger, George, story of, 243-246 - - Fulpmes, 131 - - - G - - Gaisberg, 179, 180 - view from, 180 - - Gebhardsberg, 327 - - General Bisson, 41 - Chasteler, 42 - - Georgenberg, St., 295 - ancient shrine at, 296 - dishonest abbot of, 300 - miracle of, 296 - origin of the Church of, 298 - - Germanization of Tyrol, 53 - - Ghostly Legend, A, 69 - - Giants, battle of, 106 - - Gilg Sesselschreiber, 95 - flight to Augsburg, 96 - - Golden Roof, the, 79 - - "Goldener Adler," 81 - - Goths and Huns, 12 - - Goths, Emperor Theodoric of the, 93 - - Goths, inroads of the, 11 - - Grafschaften, 15 - - "Grape Cure" at Meran, 198, 200 - - Grape Harvest at Meran, 200 - - Grasleiten Pass, 277 - - "Great Week" in Tyrolese history, 45 - - Grödenerthal, ascents in, 273 - - - H - - Habsburgs, schemes of the, 22 - - Haimon and the Dragon, 107 - - Hall, 134-138 - interesting church of, 137 - Münsterturm at, 135 - St. Saviour's church, 138 - salt mines, 135 - - Haspinger, the Capuchin Monk, 38 - - Haydn, Michael, at Salzburg, 185 - - Heilig Wasser, 128 - - Hellbrunn, Chateau of, 176-178 - gardens and fountains, 177 - mechanical theatre at, 178 - Monatsschlösschen at, 178 - stone theatre at, 178 - - Henry, youngest son of Meinhard II., 17 - - Herzog-Friedrich-strasse, arcades of the, 82 - - Highway, Tyrol, 14 - - Historian Florus, 5 - - Historic Events, Innsbruck, 101 - - Historical masterpieces of Franz Defregger, 90 - - History of the Statues at Hofkirche, 94 - - History in Marble, Innsbruck, 99 - - Hofburg, the, Innsbruck, 91 - - Hofer Andreas, 37, 46 - birth of, 38 - commander-in-chief, 40 - "battle cry" of, 44 - triumph of, 45 - - Hofer's nickname, 45 - - Hofer named dictator of Tyrol, 46 - capture of, 48 - led forth to die, 48 - death of, 49 - tomb of, 102 - in the Meran "Hero Plays," 195, 196 - - Hofkirche, the, Innsbruck, 92, 104 - History of the statues, 94 - - Hohen-Salzburg, 167-170 - description of, 167 - sieges of, 169 - cable railway, 169 - - Hohen Tauern, range, 150 - - Hohenlinden, battle of, 37 - - Hollaner von Hohenfelsen, 315 - - Horace, 4 - - Hostelries, 10 - - Huns and Goths, 12 - - - I - - Igls, 126 - - Inhabitants, original, 1 - - Innichen (Aguntum) Station, 9 - church and village, 262 - - Inns and hostelries, 10 - ancient, 81, 275 - - Innsbruck, approach to, 72 - art collection, 89 - attractions of, 110 - capture of, 42 - character of, 74 - costumes and uniforms at, 75 - famous statues, 97 - gaieties, 73 - gay court at, 80 - historical masterpieces of Franz Defregger, 90 - Jesuit church at, 85 - market types, 83 - Marktgraben, 83 - Maximilian's Tomb, 93 - Maximilian's, description of, Cenotaph, 98, 99 - mediæval buildings in, 81 - museum treasures, 89 - National Museum, 87 - plague, 86 - rise of, 76 - rulers, 77 - Silver chapel at, 97 - site of, 5 - some historic events at, 101 - the environs of, 113-132 - the Hofburg, 91 - the Hofkirche, 92 - the newer town, 87 - winter sports at, 111 - - Invaders, Teutonic, 13 - - - J - - Jews, the, 21 - - John, Prince of Bohemia, 19, 21 - - Julium Carnicum (Zuglio) station, 9 - - - K - - Kapuzingerberg, view from, 180 - - Karrersee, 213, 276 - - Kastelruth, 278 - - Kerpen, General, 36 - - King Arthur of England, 93 - - Kitzbühel, 287, 288 - sports at, 288 - - Kitzbühlerhorn, ascent of, 287 - - Klausen, 215 - story of a nun, 216 - - Kufstein, 281-287 - castle of, 282-284 - siege of, 283, 284 - plundering of, 284 - Maximilian at, 283, 284 - legend of, 285, 286 - - - L - - Ladin, the dialect of the Grödenerthal, 225 - - Lake Missurina, 262 - - Landeck, 319, 320 - church of, 319 - - Landhaus of Anton Gump, 84 - - Landtag, first Tyrolean, 26 - - Language, the Tyrol, 55 - - Larch, Maria, pilgrimage chapel of, 145 - - Latemar, curious customs relating to, 276 - - Laudon, General, 36 - - Legend of Castle of Tratzberg, 302 - a ghostly, 69 - Chapel of Madonna alle Laste, 247, 248 - Kufstein Castle, 285, 286 - St. Leonard auf der Wiese, 289, 290 - San Marco, 249 - the Sclavini di San Marco, 248-250 - - Legends of the Rosengarten, 214 - Tyrol, 55 - Wilten, 109 - - Leipsic, battle of, 49 - - Leopold, Archduke, 31 - I., Emperor, 34 - II., Emperor, 35 - - Lienz (Lonicum) station, 9 - - Lizzana, Castle, 248 - - Löffler, Gregor, and Castle of Büchsenhausen, 97 - - Lonicum (Lienz) station, 9 - - Lotzer Thal, 321 - - Louis, Duke of Bavaria, 25 - - Lueg Pass, 151 - - Luneville, treaty of, 37 - - - M - - Madonna alle Laste, chapel of, 247 - - "Maid of Spinges," 229 - - "Maid of Bregenz," 325, 326 - - Mantua, Anna Katharina Gonzaga of, 31 - Eleanor Vincenzo of, 31 - - Marco, San, 249 - - Marengo, battle of, 37 - - Maria Larch, church of, 145 - - Maria Theresa, empress, 34 - - Maria Waldrast, chapel of, 231 - - Marriage in Tyrol, 61 - - Martin, St., home of Speckbacher, 144 - - Martinswand, 313-315 - Maximilian's adventure on the, 313-315 - - Masciacum (Matzen), 7 - - Massena, general, 37 - - Matrei, 231 - church of Maria Waldrast, 231 - - Matrejum (Matrei), 8 - - Matzen, Schloss, 294, 295 - - Maurice of Saxony, 30 - - Max-Höhle at Zirl, 315 - - Maximilian, 28 - - Maximilian's cell, 85 - tomb, Innsbruck, 93 - Cenotaph description, 98 - - Medriol Thal, 321 - - Meinhard II., youngest son of, 17 - untimely end, 23 - - Meran, 192-201 - architecture of, 193 - the Burg, 193 - the Landesfürstliche Burg, 193, 194 - gardens of, 195 - "Hero Plays" at, 195, 196 - costumes at, 197 - "grape cure" at, 198 - the "Saltner" at, 199 - sports and pastimes at, 201 - castles near, 201-203 - - Merchants, Venetian, 27 - - Michael, St., 144 - - Milser, Oswald, 316, 317 - - Mines, salt, 9 - - Mirabell, Schloss, garden of, 174, 175 - - Missurina Lake, 263 - - Monasteries, suppression of, 35 - - Mönchsberg, early church in, 153 - walk along the, 182, 183 - - Mozart's birthplace, 184 - relics in, 184 - - Mozart-Häuschen on the Kapuzingerberg, 181 - furniture and relics in, 181 - - Mozart-Häuschen, beautiful garden of, 182 - - Muhldorf, battle of, 157 - - Munatius Plancus, 4 - - Museum, National, at Innsbruck, 87 - treasures, 89 - - Myths of Tyrol, 55 - - - N - - Naïssus, battle of, 11 - - Napoleonic wars and Salzburg, 163 - - Nave d'Oro, inn, 275 - - Nonnberg, convent on the, 183 - Gothic chapel of the, 183 - - - O - - Ober-Innthal, through the, 311-327 - - Original inhabitants of Tyrol, 1 - - Ostrogothic leader, Theodoric, 12 - - Oswald Milser, 316, 317 - - Ottoburg, the, 81 - - - P - - Paneveggio, 279 - - Paris von Lodron, archbishop, 171 - - Passau, bishop of, 15 - - Passeier Valley, 205 - Hofer's hiding-place in, 205 - - Peace of Westphalia, 160 - - Peasants' revolt at Salzburg, 159 - - Persecution by Catholics, 161 - - Petermann, lover of Margaret of Tyrol, 108 - - Philippine Welser, tomb of, 102 - romantic story of, 115-120 - character of, 119 - death of, 122 - - Pienzenau, story of Governor, 283, 284 - - Plague, ravages of the, 86 - at Trent, 238 - - Plancus, Munatius, 4 - - Plätz-Wiese, 268 - - Pliny, quotation from, 9 - - Plutarch's "Marius," 3 - - "Pocket-Mouthed Meg," 18, 23, 108 - - Pons Aeni, 7 - - Pons Drusi (Bozen), 8 - - Pontlatzerbrucke, 320 - - Porta Claudia, Scharnitz, 318 - - Post Road, Brenner, 7 - - Power of Rome, 11 - - Pragser Lake or Wildsee, 269 - - Predazzo, 274, 275 - Nave d'Oro inn, 275 - - Pressburg, treaty of, 38, 40 - - Prince counts of Tyrol, 17 - - Prince John of Bohemia, 19 - - Princess Catherine of Saxony, 27 - - Protestants, expulsion of, 161 - - "Pulpit bride," the, 61 - - - R - - Rattenberg, 290 - castle of, 291 - history of, 291 - - Reforms by Charlemagne, 15 - - Regent, Archduke Leopold as, 31 - - Revolution, French, 36 - - Rhætians, the, 4, 7 - their dialect, 53 - - Rhæto-Roman stations, 8 - - Riva, 252, 253 - parish church of, 252 - - Roman conquest of the country, 6 - occupation of Rhætia, 7 - Rhæto-, stations, 8 - - Rome, power of, 11 - - Romedius, St., story of, 133, 134 - - Rosengarten, 213-215 - excursions in the, 215 - legend of, 214 - - Route, the Brenner, 3, 7 - - Roveredo, 250, 251 - churches of, 251 - - Rudolph IV., 24 - - Rulers, Innsbruck's, 77 - - Rum, village of, 133 - - Runkelstein, castle of, 211 - frescoes at, 211, 212 - - Rupert, St., at Salzburg, 155 - - - S - - Sadowa, battle of, 50 - - St. Leonard auf der Wiese, 288, 289 - - St. Martin, village of, 203 - Hofer's inn at, 204 - Hofer relics at, 205 - - St. Peter's church, Salzburg, 185 - cemetery, Salzburg, 186 - monastery, Salzburg, 186 - - St. Romedius, story of, 133, 134 - - St. Ulrich, costume at, 226 - quaint guide-book to, 226 - toy industry of, 222, 223 - village of, 221, 222 - - St. Vigilius, festival of, 234 - - Salome Alt and Archbishop von Raitenau, 174 - and Schloss Mirabell, 174 - - Salsbund, the, 161 - - Salt mines, 9 - discovery of, 142, 143 - - "Saltner," the, at Meran, 199 - - Salzach Valley, 151 - - Salzburg, 147-191 - beauty of, 147 - - Salzburg, approach to, 148 - province of, 149 - in Roman times, 152 - building of, 153 - history of, 154 - rise of, 155 - early rulers of, 157 - the Reformation and peasant revolt at, 159 - province of, during French invasions, 162 - luxurious archbishops of, 164 - rebuilding of, 165, 166 - ancient fortress of, 167 - cathedral, burning of, 171 - cathedral, 171, 172 - Residenz-Platz, 172 - St. Peter's church, 185 - monastery, 186 - cemetery, 186 - Carolina-Augusteum museum, 186 - special features, 187 - peasants' ball at, 188, 189 - a curious custom, 190 - the market, 191, 192 - - Sandyland, birth of Andreas Hofer, 38 - - San Martino, 279 - - Sarnthal, costumes of the, 210 - - Saxon troops enter Tyrol, 43 - - Saxony, Princess Catherine of, 27 - Maurice of, 30 - - Scarbio (Scharnitz), 8 - - Scenery, Tyrol, 1 - - Schabs (Sebatum) station, 9 - - Scharnitz, 318 - defence of, by Swinburne, 318 - - Schlern, the, 277 - - Schloss Mirabell and Salome Alt, 174 - gardens of, 174, 175 - Zenoburg, Meran, 201 - Rubein, Meran, 201 - Tyrol, near Meran, 202 - " description of, 202, 203 - Matzen, description of, 294, 295 - - Schluderbach, 264 - - Schmalkald, war of the, 29 - - Schonberg, 131 - - Schonna, castle of, 203 - - Schwaz, 303-308 - silver mines at, 304 - curious church at, 307 - - Sclavini di San Marco, 248-250 - - Sebatum (Schabs) station, 9 - - Servites, church of the, 84 - - Sesselschreiber, Gilg, 95 - flight to Augsburg, 95 - - Sigismund, duke, 26 - - Silver chapel, Innsbruck, 97 - statues, 103 - - Site of Innsbruck, 5 - - Spanish Succession, War of the, 33 - - Speckbacher, birth of, 38 - - Spinges, Battle of, 228, 229 - maid of, 229 - engagement of, 36 - - Sports, Tyrolese, 67 - at Kitzbühel, 287, 288 - at Meran, 201 - winter, at Innsbruck, 111 - - Starkenberg, Castle of, 68 - - Stations, Rhæto-Roman, 8 - Tricesimum, 9 - Julium Carnicum (Zuglio), 9 - Aguntum (Innichen), 9 - Lonicum (Lienz), 9 - Sebatum (Schabs), 9 - - Statues, famous, at Innsbruck, 97 - - " " Hofkirche, 94 - in Silver Chapel, Innsbruck, 103 - - Sterzing (Vilpetenum), 8 - - Sterzing, 229-231 - Rathaus at, 230 - church at, 230 - - Stilfes, gorge of, 44 - - Story of Charlemagne and Hildegarde, 324, 325 - a nun, 216 - Georg von Frundsberg, 308-310 - Governor Pienzenau, 283, 284 - Heilig Wasser, 128 - Oswald Milser, 316, 317 - Oswald von Wolkenstein, 217-220 - Pastor Söll, 306 - Philippine Welser, 115-120 - St. Romedius and the Bear, 133, 134 - Teufelspalast, Trent, 244-246 - the "Maid of Bregenz," 325, 326 - - Strange natural phenomena, 131 - - Stubai Valley, 129 - Bahn, 130 - - Summons to arms, 41 - - Superstitions of Tyrol, 55 - - Swinburne and Scharnitz, 318 - - - T - - Telfs, 318 - - Territory, New, 29 - - Teutonic Invaders, 13 - - Thaur, 133 - village of, 56 - - Theodoric, Emperor of the Goths, 93 - the Ostrogothic leader, 12 - - Thirty Years' War, 33 - - Tiberius, 4, 6 - - Toblach, 263 - - Tomb of Archduke Ferdinand and Philippine Welser, 102 - - Tomb of Hofer, 102 - Maximilian, 93 - - "Toy-land," 223, 224 - - Tratzberg, castle of, 301, 302 - Maximilian rooms, 301, 302 - story of, 302, 303 - - Trautson, castle of, 231 - - Travel, diaries of early, 14 - - Treaty of Campo Formio, 37 - Luneville, 37 - Pressburg, 38, 40 - Vienna, 47 - - Tre Croci Pass, 265 - - Trent (Tridentum), 8 - - Trent, 233-247 - ancient, 235 - " palaces of, 243-247 - cathedral of, 241 - church of Santa Maria Maggiore, 240 - Claudia Porticelli, story of, 243 - Council of, 236-240 - Dante and, 242 - decrees of the Council of, 238 - end of the Council of, 240 - festival of St. Vigilius at, 234 - foundation of, 233 - museum, 242 - opening of the Council of, 236 - plague at, 238 - story of the organ-builder of, 241 - Teufelspalast, 244-246 - - Tricesimum, Roman station of, 9 - - Tridentum (Trent), 8 - - Trostburg, castle, 216, 217 - - Tunnel, Arlberg, 72 - - Types, ancient, along the highway, 14 - - Types, market, Innsbruck, 83 - - Tyrol scenery, 1 - inhabitants, 1 - types along the great highway, 14 - Counts of, 16, 17 - castle of, 16 - possession of, 32 - population of, 37 - French, Bavarian, and Saxon troops enter, 43 - Hofer, dictator of, 46 - as Bavarian territory, 47 - triple division of, 49 - description of, 52 - Germanization of, 53 - the language of, 55 - legends, superstitions, and myths of, 55 - Wälsch, 57 - - Tyrol folk-lore, tales of, 57 - quaint customs relating to Christmas in, 59 - Epiphany performances, 60 - pathetic ceremonials in, 60 - marriage in, 61 - bride's procession, 62 - costumes of, 63 - curious wedding customs, 64 - sports and wrestling in, 67 - national costume of, 82 - Margaret of, 108 - "Toy-land" in, 223 - - Tyrolean dances, 66 - Landtag, first, 26 - wedding, 65 - - Tyrolese character, 56 - history, in--as "the Great Week," 45 - masters, works of the, 89 - sports, 67 - - - U - - Ulrich, St., 221, 222 - church at, 225 - costume at, 226 - quaint guide-book to, 226 - toy industry of, 222, 223 - - University, of Innsbruck, 84 - - Unter-Innthal, vast mineral wealth of, 27 - through the, 281-310 - - - V - - Val Sacra and Dante, 243 - - Val Sugana, 280 - - Veldidena, 5, 8 - - Vendome, General, 33 - - Venetian merchants, 27 - - Vercelli, 3 - - Via Claudia Augusta, 8 - - Vienna, treaty of, 47 - - Vigilius, St., festival of, 234 - - Vilpetenum (Sterzing), 8 - - Vindelicorum, Augusta, 6 - - Vineyards at Meran, 199, 200 - - Von Keutschach, Bishop Leonhard, 158 - - Von Lodron, Paris, archbishop, 171 - - Von Raitenau, Bishop Wolf Dietrich, 160, 170 - - Von Vogelweide, statue of, 209 - - Von Wolkenstein, story of, 217-220 - - Vorarlberg, words and expressions used in, 54 - - - W - - Wagram, defeat of Austrian forces at, 43 - - Waidbruck, 272 - - War, Civil, 21 - of the Schmalkald, 29 - of the Spanish Succession, 33 - Thirty Years', 33 - - Wasser, Heilig, story of, 128 - - Wealth, vast mineral, 27 - - Wedding, a Tyrolean, 65 - customs, 64 - - Weisslahn-Bad, 278 - - Welser, Philippine, character of, 119 - death of, 122 - romantic story of, 115-120 - tomb of, 102 - - Westphalia, Peace of, 160 - - Wildsee, Pragser, 269 - - Wilten (Veldidena), 8 - abbey of, 17 - a legend of, 109 - story and description of abbey of, 105 - - Woodcarvers of St. Ulrich, 222, 223 - - Wrestling, Tyrolese, 67 - - - Z - - Zillerthal maidens, 59 - - Zirl, 311-316 - Calvarienberg of, 312 - Maximilian at, 313-315 - 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