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@@ -1,39 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Another Summer, by Charles J. Gillis - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Another Summer - The Yellowstone Park and Alaska - -Author: Charles J. Gillis - -Release Date: September 22, 2012 [EBook #40824] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ANOTHER SUMMER *** - - - - -Produced by Greg Bergquist, Matthew Wheaton and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40824 *** ANOTHER SUMMER @@ -985,7 +950,7 @@ Another tale related by one of the storytelling group ran as follows: "I am an expert in umbrellas, take good care of them, and they generally serve me for many years. I have one purchased in Florence, -another from the Bon Marche, Paris, and this one, which I hold in my +another from the Bon Marché, Paris, and this one, which I hold in my hand, bought at the Burlington Arcade, London, has been a good and faithful servant, having been used as a cane when tramping through Italy, France, Germany, and England. It has sheltered me from the @@ -1234,361 +1199,4 @@ after an absence of just fifty-one days. End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Another Summer, by Charles J. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Another Summer - The Yellowstone Park and Alaska - -Author: Charles J. Gillis - -Release Date: September 22, 2012 [EBook #40824] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ANOTHER SUMMER *** - - - - -Produced by Greg Bergquist, Matthew Wheaton and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - - - - ANOTHER SUMMER - - THE - YELLOWSTONE PARK - and - ALASKA - - BY - CHARLES J. GILLIS - - - Printed for - Private Distribution - - - COPYRIGHT, 1893, BY - CHARLES J. GILLIS. - - - Press of J. J. Little & Co. - Astor Place, New York - - - The more I think of it, the more I find this conclusion - impressed upon me, that the greatest thing a human soul ever - does in this world is to _see_ something and tell what it saw in - a plain way.--RUSKIN. - - - With the Compliments - of the Author. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -In the spring of 1892, a party was made up for a trip to Alaska. The -different members thereof were to cross the continent by such routes -as they pleased, and meet at Portland, Oregon, on the second of July. -This plan was followed, and all the party boarded the steamer _Queen_ -at Tacoma, prepared for the journey of a thousand miles up the coast -of Alaska. - -Some account of this, and also of an excursion to the Yellowstone -Park, made on the way westward, is given in the following pages. - - - - - CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER - - I.--THE START FOR ALASKA, - - II.--ON THE WAY TO THE YELLOWSTONE, - - III.--YELLOWSTONE PARK, - - IV.--THE GEYSERS AND PAINT POT, - - V.--THE UPPER GEYSER BASIN, - - VI.--THE GRAND CANYON, AND THE FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE, - - VII.--DOWN THE COLUMBIA RIVER TO PORTLAND, - - VIII.--TACOMA AND SEATTLE, - - IX.--ON BOARD THE "QUEEN" FROM TACOMA TO VICTORIA, - - X.--ALASKA, - - XI.--THE MUIR GLACIER, - - XII.--SITKA, - - XIII.--AN ACCIDENT TO THE "QUEEN," - - XIV.--ICY BAY, TREADWELL, AND JUNEAU, - - XV.--THE RETURN VOYAGE, AND SOME STORIES TOLD ON THE WAY, - - XVI.--ON THE CANADIAN PACIFIC, - - XVII.--BANFF SPRINGS, - - XVIII.--CONCLUSION, - - - - - -THE YELLOWSTONE PARK AND ALASKA. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - THE START FOR ALASKA. - - -Our long trip to Alaska and return, nine thousand miles in all, -commenced on June 17, 1892, at the Grand Central Station, New York. -Arriving at Chicago the next afternoon, we obtained a good view of the -great exposition buildings from our car windows as we passed along the -lake front. Shortly afterward we were dumped down at the wretched -sheds of the Michigan Central Railroad. It rained very heavily, and -ourselves and hand baggage were somewhat wet passing a short distance -to a carriage. We soon crossed the Chicago River to the Northwestern -Depot, boarded the train, which left at 11 P.M., and arrived at the -beautiful modern city of St. Paul at 1 P.M. the next day. The Hotel -Ryan was found to be very comfortable, and everything in and around -the city is bright and cheerful. Great business activity, and immense -and costly buildings are especially noticeable. - -Running along the streets are great numbers of spacious and elegant -cars drawn by cables. We hailed a passing one, got in, and went slowly -and carefully through the crowded streets, up and down hills, with -great speed and ease, into the country for some miles, passing many -elegant private residences, as costly and fine as any to be seen in -any city in the world--notably one built and occupied by Mr. Hill, -president of the Great Northern Railroad, now about completed to the -Pacific Ocean, whose name you hear mentioned often as one of the great -railroad magnates of the West. The streets are clean, the sidewalks -wide, the front yards of the houses crowded with beautiful plants and -flowers, and in all respects we concluded that St. Paul is a most -delightful city. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - ON THE WAY TO THE YELLOWSTONE. - LIVINGSTON, MONTANA, June 22, 1892. - - -We left the city of St. Paul at 4.25 P.M. on the 20th, by the Northern -Pacific Railroad, and arrived here at 8 A.M. this morning. A section -on the sleeping-car had been previously engaged, and we found it and -the dining-room car attached to the train all that could be desired, -so that we thoroughly enjoyed the entire trip. Passing through the Bad -Lands was a wonderful experience. Great mountains of clay or stone, in -all sorts of grotesque shapes and of many colors, constantly attracted -our attention until we reached the Yellowstone River, which was higher -than it had been for many years. Here things began to look serious, as -frequently the dirty and rushing flood came near to the track, and -the rise of a foot or so would have caused a wash-out, and have -stopped our progress; but for many miles before we reached this -station, the engineer moved the train of ten cars very carefully, and -we were only two hours behind time. There has been a bridge burned -beyond this place, and some bad wash-outs are reported by passengers -coming East, who say that they had to travel around six miles on foot, -through a country infested with rattlesnakes, leaving their baggage -behind; but we expect that all will be clear on Monday, when we shall -have been through the park, and will be ready to go on from here West. - -There was the usual crowd of "all sorts and conditions" of men on the -train--young ranchmen, bright eyed, intelligent, and alert, one of -them being an English lord, but I did not know this until he left the -car at a way station. All had tales to tell of life in these parts, -one of which was that the stage running from one of the stations at -which we stopped was "held up" three times last week, and the -passengers robbed. This town is a new one, with a lot of small wooden -houses and stores, but as the hotels did not look very attractive, we -took our breakfast on the dining-car attached to a train about to -start for Cinnabar, on a branch road, and an excellent meal we had. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - YELLOWSTONE PARK. - MAMMOTH SPRINGS HOTEL, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, June 23, 1892. - - -Leaving Livingston at 9 A.M., we travelled by rail forty-two miles to -Cinnabar, the entrance to the National Park. We passed along the -valley of the Yellowstone River, now a much swollen, turbulent, and -rushing stream, hemmed in by mountains reaching their lofty heads -thousands of feet high. In one place there had been a land-slide some -hundreds of feet long, which had carried down all the earth and trees -into the valley, leaving the rock bare, and presenting a very rugged -appearance. There were numerous farms and ranches on the route, with -cattle and cultivated fields. The road bed was in good order, the cars -excellent, and the trip exceedingly interesting and enjoyable. At -Cinnabar, we took a stage for eight miles to this hotel. The road is a -very good one, passing over rushing streams and along the bases of -great mountains, amidst magnificent scenery. Beautiful flowers line -the way and are in the fields, while the mountains are partly covered -with snow. We hear that the road to the lake is blocked with snow, and -impassable. This hotel is an excellent one, the food, attendance, and -rooms are good, and for a day we are resting preparatory to commencing -the tour of the park. Here are located the barracks for the United -States soldiers in charge of the reservation, these being now two -hundred mounted men, who act as police, and constantly patrol the -roads, watching for poachers, and generally keeping everything in -order. From the front of the hotel we look upon the hot springs, which -have been throwing out hot water and steam, no doubt for ages, and -have formed a large terraced hill of soda or lime-like material, the -surplus water finding its way, partly through subterranean passages, -to the river. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - THE GEYSERS AND PAINT POT. - FOUNTAIN HOTEL, YELLOWSTONE PARK, June 23, 1892. - - -This morning at eight o'clock we left the Mammoth Spring, in a -strongly built and comfortable wagon drawn by four horses, with eight -passengers and a careful driver, and soon commenced to see the wonders -of this remarkable park. The road ran near three lakes, each measuring -a hundred acres or more--one green in color, one blue, and one -yellow--the like of which cannot, I think, be seen anywhere else on -earth. On examination, I found that the water was clear, and that the -pronounced and brilliant colors came from chemical deposits on the -bottom of the lakes. We did not linger long to look at these -remarkable phenomena, but drove on, and were soon passing over a road -made of natural glass, by the side of a great mountain of the same -material. I picked up several pieces of this glass, and found that it -was green in color, and looked like any other glass, while alongside -the road and up the mountain we saw large masses of the same material. -The only conclusion we could arrive at was, that in some prehistoric -time the materials of which glass is composed must have been in -juxtaposition, and were fused into their present form by a volcanic -eruption. It is safe to say that nowhere else on earth is to be found -a roadway made of glass. - -We reached this hotel at 6 P.M., and saw near by the first of the -geysers, spouting hot water fifty feet high. We made our way over a -thin crust to see this geyser, so thin that it seemed as if we might -break through and disappear forever, reminding me of a former -experience, when walking along the edge of a volcano in Japan, a place -was pointed out where two guides who had wandered from the path, broke -through the crust and were lost. We passed on to examine what I -consider the most extraordinary natural phenomenon to be seen on the -face of the earth. It is called the Paint Pot, and is a depression of -about thirty by forty feet, with walls of hardened clay three or four -feet high. In this so-called pot are half a dozen or more cones, much -like inverted flower pots, about six inches in diameter at the top, -and two or three feet high. From the centres of these there are -constantly flowing streams of hot clay, each stream of a different -color, varying from pure white to brown. In other parts of the big pot -the soft clay was coming slowly up from centres and overflowing, -forming figures like flowers, very beautiful to look at. The soldier -who escorted us was very polite, but would not permit us to carry away -a bit of the clay, though there were tens of thousands of tons lying -about. We could see, near by and at a distance, several other geysers, -spouting water fifty or more feet high, and we learned from the guide -books that there are no less than ten or twelve thousand boiling -springs and geysers within the reservation, which is sixty-five miles -long by fifty-three wide, containing about three thousand four hundred -and seventy-five square miles. We were informed that after sunset a -bear came regularly, back of the hotel, to regale himself on the -refuse thrown from the kitchen, and I went to see him; but the -mosquitoes were very thick, and proved such an intolerable nuisance -that I was obliged to go away without getting a look at the beast. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - THE UPPER GEYSER BASIN. - June 24, 1892. - - -After a good night's sleep, we left the hotel at half-past eight this -morning for an excursion to the Upper Geyser Basin, forty miles -distant. The roads were in bad order, very dusty, and the mosquitoes -thick. Geysers and boiling springs were to the right and left, -everywhere. At one place we got out of the wagon, and crossed a bridge -over a small stream to what is called the Devil's Half Acre. There -were really a dozen or more acres, containing great volumes of steam -and hot water rushing up and around. Many little streams ran toward a -big basin, some of them yellow, some green, and some blue, but on -examination I found that the water itself was clear. The mud or clay -which formed the bed of the streams, or was being carried along in -the current, was colored. We thought the Devil's Half Acre a dangerous -as well as a disagreeable place, and, recrossing the little stream, -continued on our way, arriving at the hotel at the Upper Geyser Basin -in four hours. We had just arrived when we were informed that the -famous Old Faithful Geyser, which has spouted for many years every -sixty-five minutes, would go off in a short time. It is situated a few -rods from the hotel, and as we drew near, it commenced to spout up an -immense column of water and steam one hundred and fifty feet or so in -height. Then, in about five minutes, it subsided into a hole in the -ground. We could hear the roar of the steam and water underneath, the -commotion shaking the ground. - -Soon after this exhibition, another geyser, called the Bee Hive, -situated near the hotel, spouted, and made a splendid display. I think -we saw in this basin as many as twenty large spouting geysers, and -hundreds of boiling springs, many of them of surprising beauty. One, -which attracted my attention particularly, was a slowly boiling spring -which threw up colored clay, and looked exactly like a large sponge. -This was about three feet long, two feet wide, and as many high. - -Driving along the road, we frequently saw signs put up by the -Government: "Do not drive on here," and "Danger"; so one is impressed -with the idea that some day the tremendous volcanic power underlying -this entire valley may burst out and make one vast crater of lava, -mud, water, and steam. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - THE GRAND CANYON, AND THE FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE. - GRAND CANYON HOTEL, June 26, 1892. - - -We left the Upper Geyser Basin at half-past eight yesterday morning, -stopped for lunch at Norris's at noon, and, branching off, arrived -here at 3.30 P.M. The road was on the banks of or near the Gibbon -River for many miles, and was very rough. Twice we forded the river, -and once the passengers were obliged to leave the wagon and remove a -fallen tree from the way. At another place, a tree a foot in diameter -had fallen across the road; the party all got out, and the driver had -to jump the wagon over the obstruction, at the risk of breaking the -vehicle. The road from Norris's was in good repair, and from it we had -a fine view of the great Yellowstone Falls, and then drove on to find -comfortable accommodations at this hotel, the views from which are -very magnificent. Mrs. Marble and I, accompanied by a guide, and Mr. -and Mrs. Hunter, of Canada, took a walk toward the Grand Canyon, about -half a mile off. Crossing some fields, we entered the pine woods. The -whole park has been repeatedly burnt over, and there is everywhere an -immense number of prostrate pine-trees, some of which are very large, -and appeared, when we saw them, to have been lying on the ground many -years. In this vicinity, however, there is quite a forest of new -growth, all about the same size, from six to ten inches in diameter, -and ten to a dozen feet apart, making a very pretty park. Here we came -suddenly upon a big black bear lying down; he got up, took a look at -us, and then in a leisurely way walked off. It was a fine specimen, -weighing, we judged, about two hundred and fifty pounds, with long, -clean black hair. Mr. Hunter ran on toward the animal, but we called -to him to come back, and the bear, turning his head, gave us another -look, and disappeared in the forest. We walked along to the banks of -the rushing and roaring river, ascended a high cliff, and looked down -upon the great falls and the tremendous canyon, the walls of which are -several hundred feet high, colored bright green in some places, and in -others red, yellow, or violet. - -The whole scene was magnificent, grand, and gloomy. In the middle of -the river, near where we stood, was a column of rock some hundreds of -feet high, apparently ten yards in diameter at the bottom, and just -large enough at the top for an eagle's nest. One had been built there, -and we saw the young eagles stretching their necks, and opening their -mouths, as all kinds of young ones do when hungry. The parents were -soaring about, and evidently keeping a watchful eye upon us and their -progeny, but the little ones were safe, as nothing but a ball from a -rifle could reach that nest. From this point we had another fine view -of the Falls of the Yellowstone, both lower and upper. The upper fall -has been measured, and found to be one hundred and twelve feet high -and eighty feet wide. - -The wild animals in the reservation are carefully protected by the -custodians, no one being allowed to use a gun, and consequently they -have become comparatively tame, and have increased in numbers. Passing -along the roads, we saw on one occasion two deer, and at other times -an elk and an antelope. The superintendent, in his official report, -says that there are in the park four hundred head of buffalo, a few -moose, numerous elk, estimated at twenty thousand, and large numbers -of bears, which latter are sometimes troublesome. A herd of twenty or -thirty elk was seen near this hotel on the morning before we arrived. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - DOWN THE COLUMBIA RIVER TO PORTLAND. - PORTLAND, OREGON, July 1, 1892. - - -After spending six days in the Yellowstone Park, which would have been -far more comfortable if there had been less dust, fewer mosquitoes, -and better roads, we again returned to Livingston, and took the train -coming from the East at 8.15 P.M. All the next day and night and the -day following we were passing through mountain scenery of wonderful -beauty and grandeur, until at 11 P.M. we were landed at Pasco -Junction, there being a cross-country railroad from that point to the -Union Pacific, on the banks of the Columbia, where we wanted to go. -There was a large station at Pasco, but not a porter nor a carriage to -be seen. Many drinking places were open, and I interviewed several of -the patriots who were lounging about in their shirt sleeves--for the -thermometer registered one hundred degrees--and they pointed out the -way to Cook's Hotel, about a quarter of a mile off. Finally a porter -came to our assistance and escorted us to the hotel, which was about -as poor a one as could well be--close, hot, and uncomfortable. The -beds were as hot as if there was a fire under them, and we, of course, -slept but little. In the morning, after looking at a bad breakfast, -which did not tempt our appetites, we got into the caboose of a -freight train, and a very rough trip of two hours brought us to -Wallula Junction, where the thermometer stood at one hundred degrees -in the shade. Here we changed cars, and after two hours' more riding, -reached the Union Pacific Railroad, where we once more enjoyed the -luxury of seats in a Pullman. There was no dining-room car attached to -this train, but it stopped at a station for half an hour, and we were -supplied with an excellent dinner. The polite and kind conductor told -us not to hurry, that he would not start until we had all the dinner -we wanted. We were about eight hours running on or near the southern -banks of the Columbia River. The water was very high, and often ran -swiftly over rough rocks in the bed of the stream, and around the -bends with great force. The river appeared much wider than the Hudson, -about the same width as the Danube at Vienna. The great rivers of -Europe, Asia, Africa, and America all have their attractive -peculiarities, and I often recall my remembrances of the St. Lawrence, -Hudson, Mississippi, Rhine, Elbe, Danube, Seine, Nile, and Ganges with -the greatest pleasure and satisfaction, and am thankful that I have -been permitted to see them; but I must acknowledge that the Columbia, -in beauty and grandeur, far surpasses them all. For long distances, -you look out upon the wide and rushing water, and up to the lofty -mountains which border the banks and far beyond, some covered with -snow, and as picturesque and beautiful as anything an artist could -dream of. - -One of the most interesting things to be seen on the trip down the -river is the method of catching salmon, which, as is well known, are -as fine as any in the world. They are caught in immense numbers and -sent to all parts of the country. During the dry season, a wall is -built about twenty-five feet from the shore, forming a canal through -which the water rushes with great force. In this canal is placed a -large wheel, something like those on a sidewheel steamer, under which -the water pours, causing it to revolve in a direction contrary to the -current. The salmon swimming up stream try to jump over this -obstruction, and falling into the wheel, are tossed up on a platform, -and thus captured. - -Our train arrived at this city at 9 P.M., and we were furnished with -luxurious accommodations at "The Portland," an hotel erected by a -stock company, at a cost of one million dollars, and admirably kept by -Mr. Leland, formerly of the Delavan, Albany, and the Clarendon, -Saratoga. We found at the hotel all of the Alaska party in good health -and spirits, and ready for the voyage as arranged. - -Two days of exceptionally fine weather have given us an opportunity to -see this beautiful city to the best advantage. The Honorable Benjamin -Stark, formerly United States Senator from Oregon, now residing in New -London, Connecticut, informed me that when he first landed at Portland -in 1845, from the bark _Toulon_, there was not a house in the place, -and the party was obliged to sleep in tents where now is a fine city -of sixty-six thousand inhabitants, wide streets, elegant public and -private buildings, electric and cable street railways, and all the -appliances of modern civilization, in many respects in advance of -Eastern cities. We saw a number of Japanese and Chinese stores filled -with elegant goods, and attended by native salesmen. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - TACOMA AND SEATTLE. - TACOMA, WASHINGTON, July 5, 1892. - - -We left Portland at 8 A.M. on the 2d by rail, and arrived at this fine -hotel, "The Tacoma," at 3.30 P.M. after a very agreeable and -comfortable trip. The first thing to attract our special attention was -a view of Mount Tacoma, as seen from the rear windows of the hotel, -truly a royal and splendid sight: a great mountain, of symmetrical -shape, covered with pure white snow. There are not many such mountains -to be seen anywhere; none so beautiful, as I remember, except the -Jungfrau at Interlaken, and Fusiyama in Japan. - -We have been in this place for three days, going about everywhere, and -find it a wonderful example of a rapidly built city--solid and -substantial, wide streets, great and costly public and private -buildings, an admirable system of swift-going street cars, running in -every direction, by cable or electric power; fine dry-goods and other -stores, and every indication of great business activity and success. - -The citizens inform us that in 1880 there were thirty thousand -inhabitants in this city, and now there are fifty thousand. Judging -from the crowds on the streets and in the street cars, and the -business activity seen everywhere, this must be correct. We attended -service on Sunday at St. Paul's Protestant Episcopal Church, built by -Mr. Wright, of Philadelphia, in memory of his daughter. The church is -a beautiful one; the service was rendered in an impressive manner, and -the sermon was excellent. - -Wishing to see Seattle, the other famous city of the State of -Washington, I went there by rail in two hours, and, accompanied by a -relative, spent the day looking at the buildings and shops, and -travelling on the electric street cars, which run everywhere, with -what appeared to be dangerous speed. We had an excellent lunch at a -good hotel, situated on top of a hill, from which we looked down on -the city and harbor. Looking at the solid blocks of business houses, -wholesale and retail, and the beautiful private residences, and -knowing that there are now about fifty thousand inhabitants in the -city, it is difficult to comprehend that fifteen or twenty years ago -it was almost a wilderness. After lunch, we took seats in an electric -car, and were carried five or six miles with the greatest ease, to a -beautiful lake, where we found many interesting things to look at for -an hour or two. We hear of a great deal of jealousy between Tacoma and -Seattle, but to a stranger they appear to have much in common--large, -substantial and handsome buildings, many of which would not be thought -out of place in any city; prompt, energetic, and lively business men, -and every appearance that the foundations have been laid for two great -cities, to which the immense products of India, China, and Japan will -naturally come for distribution throughout the United States and -Europe. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - ON BOARD THE "QUEEN" FROM TACOMA TO VICTORIA. - STEAMER "QUEEN," July 7, 1892. - - -At 9 P.M. on the 5th instant we went on board the steamer _Queen_, -which, as there are no hotels in Alaska, is to be our home for two -weeks. The steamer is a fine, large vessel, with ample accommodations -for two hundred or more passengers. I had secured and paid for two -first-class staterooms two months in advance, but found, the first -night, that the ones given us were the worst on the ship, being -directly over the boiler, and consequently so hot that it was -impossible to live in them unless the doors were open. In addition to -this annoyance, when the watch was changed at 9 P.M., and at 1, 4, and -8 A.M., the ashes were hoisted from the hold, the rough and noisy -machinery used being located in the rear of our rooms, apparently -within a foot or two. The iron ash-can was about eighteen inches in -diameter and four feet high, and when it was rushed up by steam power, -it made a tremendous noise, making sleep impossible. In the morning I -called on the purser, and asked him to change the rooms. He said that -he could not "change all the rooms in the ship," but on being informed -that unless he gave my sister better accommodations we would abandon -the trip and go ashore at the next stopping place, he changed his -mind, and gave her a good room in the cabin below, but refused to -change mine unless I would pay fifty dollars additional. On -consultation with my roommate, Mr. Edwin S. Townsend, we concluded -that the advance asked was a violation of our contract with the -company, and that we would not pay it. We therefore endured the -distress and annoyance of the ash-lifting machinery. I did not remove -my clothing at night, but lay on the bed until the ash-can nuisance -commenced, and then left the room and walked the deck until the noise -stopped, in about half an hour. Being forced on deck at night had its -inconveniences, but it had its compensations also, for it gave me the -chance to see the magnificent scenery by moonlight; and, one night, -there was a splendid display of aurora borealis, which illuminated the -entire northern sky. - -After five nights spent in this disagreeable manner, one of our -friends had a talk with the purser, and induced him to change the -undesirable rooms for comfortable ones on the upper deck. We learned -with much satisfaction that the steamer during the entire trip will go -through a series of inland seas, and that we shall look upon the -Pacific Ocean but two or three times, and then for only a few hours. - -We arrived off Seattle at 4 A.M. on the 6th, and remained there five -hours, giving those who wished an opportunity to go ashore and see -that famous place. All day the beautiful vessel steamed along the -quiet waters, until we reached Victoria, the capital of British -Columbia, at 9 P.M. Most of our party thought they would like to see -the place, so half a dozen of us went ashore, and after consulting -some natives, we concluded to walk to the settled part of the city. It -was quite a long walk, a mile or more, passing government buildings -and grounds, and many handsome houses, until we came to one of the -business streets, and there we found the "Poodle Dog Restaurant," -rendered famous from a notice of it in Mrs. General Collis's -exceedingly interesting and beautifully illustrated book, "A Woman's -Trip to Alaska." We had a little supper, and then took carriages back -to the vessel, which soon afterward steamed away through the Gulf of -Georgia, and along the coast of British Columbia toward Alaska, our -goal. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - ALASKA. - July 9, 1892. - - -This morning we went ashore at Fort Wrangell, but found little there -of interest. A lot of miserable Indians and dogs and old houses, a -post-office and a court-house. An Indian dressed himself as a warrior -in paint and feathers, and executed a war-dance in a barn for the -amusement of the visitors. I saw him dancing along the walk into the -barn, but did not care to see the show. At noon we left the fort, and -since then have been passing through scenes of unsurpassed -magnificence. Tall mountains were on either side, those nearest -covered with spruce-trees, and the ranges back of them white with -snow. Occasionally there were open spaces, where snow or land-slides -had taken place, making good feeding grounds for wild animals, but we -saw only one, a large elk, who kept on feeding and did not notice our -ship. The sun set at a quarter past nine last evening. The steamer's -route is generally between islands and the main land, the water smooth -and everything comfortable; but yesterday we came out upon the broad -Pacific Ocean for an hour or two, and some of the passengers were -sea-sick, but none of our party were troubled in that way. All -appeared regularly at meals, which were excellent: well-cooked meats -and vegetables, and plenty of fruit. Just now, at 8 P.M., we are in a -bay some twenty miles in extent, surrounded by great mountains covered -with snow. The setting sun shining on these makes a picture of extreme -beauty and grandeur. All day long we have been on deck admiring the -beautiful sights, the weather being fine, numerous sea-gulls in view, -occasionally a school of porpoises, and now and then a whale. Every -day we pass numerous islands, large and small, all covered with -spruce-trees and having a very charming appearance. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - THE MUIR GLACIER. - GLACIER BAY, July 10, 1892. - - -We arrived here at nine this morning, and have the great Muir Glacier -before us. It is about two miles wide, two or three hundred feet high, -and several hundred miles long. Every quarter of an hour or so we hear -a loud crack, followed by a noise like the discharge of a gun, then a -rumbling like thunder, and a big piece of ice, as large as a house, -and, sometimes, as a church, falls into the water, causing the great -steamer to rock. Word was passed for us to get into boats for an -excursion onto the glacier. We were cautioned to be prudent and not to -wander too far, and were told the story of a young Methodist -clergyman, who went out of sight of his companions and was never after -seen or heard of. It fell to my lot to escort a lady who, accompanied -by her maid, wished to go on the glacier. A glacier may be said to be -a river of ice, formed on the mountains and forced downwards, -travelling the same as water, only slower. This one moves at the rate -of about forty feet a day, much faster than they do in the Alps. Those -at Chamouny, for instance, make only a foot or two a day. Our party -landed, and for some distance had the use of a plank walk. From -various parts of this we had fine views of the front of the glacier, -large pieces of which were frequently falling into the water, making a -great noise. We then, after much rough walking over stones and ice, -passed up to the main body of the glacier. The ice is forced up into -hillocks and ranges, wet, slippery, and difficult to travel on. Mrs. -B. tripped along lightly and safely, but not so her maid, whose shoes -were treacherous, and twice she came to grief, but no harm was done. I -had on arctic overshoes with corrugated soles, which served me well, -for I did not slip once. For an hour or two we wandered about, -admiring the ice, the views, the numerous small streams of clear water -formed by melted ice, and then returned to our quarters on board. At 7 -P.M. the stately vessel steamed around near the front of the glacier, -when, as if to give us a parting salute, an immense mass of ice, as -big as a church, fell into the water with a great noise. The -passengers cheered, and we went on our course, passing numerous ice -islands. The day was perfect, as the preceding ones had been. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - SITKA. - SITKA, July 11, 1892. - - -At six o'clock this morning we arrived here. The weather was warm, -tempered by a cool breeze. Not a cloud was in the sky. This is a small -harbor, with many islands in sight. From the deck of the steamer we -could see the town, and on top of a hill a large wooden edifice, where -the Russian governor-general formerly resided. It is vacant now, and -in a dilapidated condition. We went ashore, and saw many Indians -sitting on the walks or by the side of the roads. They were dressed -nicely, and were better looking than any I ever saw before. They had -the usual supply of baskets and curios for sale. - -We went in and out of several stores, and bought some curios, and then -visited the Russian church, where there were some fine paintings of -saints and other religious subjects. Back about a rod from the water, -with boats in front of them, were a hundred or more houses occupied by -Indians. Accompanied by a resident doctor, we went into some of these -houses, and saw how the Indians lived. Owing to the large number of -dogs and quantities of bad-smelling fish, we were very glad to get -away from that neighborhood. - -One of our friends had chartered the only wagon in the town, and took -us for a trip of a mile or two along the shore, among the -sweet-smelling spruce-trees, to a small stream of water, over which we -passed, and then rested in the woods. On our return, we went to the -Presbyterian Mission, which is a large and important one. It consists -of a group of buildings: a church, a school-house, and two large -edifices erected at the expense of Mrs. Elliott F. Shepard, in which -the young Indians are to be taught carpentry and other mechanical -industries. We attended a school in session, and heard the reverend -gentleman in charge examine the Indian girls and boys in arithmetic, -reading, and writing. They appeared as bright and intelligent as any -white children, and as capable of being educated. It was reported to -us that there were two hundred pupils in the school, and fourteen -missionaries in charge. - -Mrs. Richard H. L. Townsend, of New York, saw among the pupils a -sweet-faced and bright girl ten years of age, and after talking to her -awhile, adopted her to educate, agreeing to pay the mission for her -support and education for a number of years. This lady, when in Japan -in 1889, adopted in a similar way a little native girl there, and -another native girl in China. These two children in their respective -countries are getting along nicely with their education, and write to -Mrs. T. sweet letters every month. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - AN ACCIDENT TO THE "QUEEN." - July 12, 1892. - - -At 7 P.M. last evening the steamer's whistle sounded the last signal, -all our passengers came on board, and we started. Going out of the -harbor, we passed numerous small islands covered with spruce-trees. -The view of the town, the harbor, and the surrounding mountains made a -scene of great beauty. At half-past seven the steamer struck a rock. -The bow was forced high up out of water, and the stern, where I was -sitting with some ladies and gentlemen, careened over so much that we -had to hold on to the railing to prevent ourselves from falling. There -was no occasion for alarm, as we were within two hundred feet of an -island, and about a mile from the harbor of Sitka, where we could see -a revenue cutter lying, with her steam up, and numerous rowboats -near. No one about us manifested any excitement, except one young -woman who became hysterical and had to be restrained. The tide was -rising, and our captain declined assistance from the captain of the -revenue cutter, thinking it best to wait for the tide to rise high -enough to float the vessel. The passengers were generally very cool, -except one gentleman from Chicago, said to be worth several million -dollars, who indulged in remarks about the proper way to navigate -steamers, and insisted that the captain of the _Queen_ did not -understand his business, or he would not have run the vessel on rocks -in the daytime. Captain Carroll, hearing of these observations, -stepped up to the great capitalist and said: "Sir, if you do not like -the way I manage this ship, you can go ashore," to which the -capitalist replied that he would. A boat was lowered, and the officer -in charge was directed to take this gentleman, together with his wife -and daughter, back to Sitka. There being no hotels in the town, and -hardly any accommodations whatever, except for Indians and dogs, the -prospect of being obliged to stop there for a week or two was not -entertaining, so the wife and daughter remonstrated. The matter was -therefore smoothed over with the captain, and all parties remained on -board. Soon after this incident, a line was run to the shore of an -island near by, and attached to the trunk of a tree, to assist in -hauling the ship off. Every half hour or so the propeller would -commence running, and attempts would be made to start the steamer, -with no success, until 12.15 A.M., when, with much grating on the -bottom, she was floated off into deep water. The captain thought best -to take her back to Sitka, so we were soon anchored there again, -opposite Mrs. Shepard's houses. - -When I awoke this morning, the water was as still as a mill pond, and -the sky cloudless, giving us another perfect day. It was found that no -damage had been done to the steamer, and at 8 A.M. she started on her -course. We are now passing through Peril Straits, very narrow, with -mountains near, covered with trees. The water is shallow, and -sometimes our stanch vessel grates roughly over the bottom. At one -time, when passing an opening of a dozen miles, we looked upon the -ocean, with just enough swell to remind us how much more agreeable it -is to sail on water where you are not liable to sea-sickness. - -The captain has issued his usual noon-day bulletin, stating that the -ship will arrive at certain places during the next twenty-four hours, -provided she does not run on rocks, and there is no fog, and that -"after Juneau, we will go to Taku Glacier, where we will obtain our -supply of ice." "Passengers are permitted to fill up with it, as it is -exceedingly cheap, and cooling to the mind." - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - ICY BAY, TREADWELL, AND JUNEAU. - JUNEAU, July 13, 1892. - - -Yesterday we were moving through the straits, and looking upon the -majestic scenery which distinguishes Alaska, for a thousand miles from -Tacoma. We passed the great Davidson Glacier, and during the afternoon -and evening were constantly seeing immense ranges of mountains, until -we reached Icy Bay at seven this morning. Here the steamer took in her -supply of ice, fishing it out of the water and hoisting it on board, -several tons at a time. Coming into Icy Bay, the scenery was of -extraordinary grandeur, mountains many thousand feet high, the bases -of which were near the water, and numerous waterfalls and glaciers. -Some of us sat up nearly all night to see the wonders, the like of -which cannot be seen anywhere in the world, except, perhaps, in -Greenland. After midnight the moon came up in all her glory, and the -northern lights played fantastic tricks in the sky. The great glacier -in this bay is a wonder, a mile wide and several hundred feet high, -the ice falling off every few minutes in great masses. Once I saw two -great ice towers, looking much like those of the Church of Notre Dame -in Paris, and I called the attention of a lady to them. Hardly had I -made the remark, before they both crumbled down into the water with a -tremendous crash, making our big ship feel the force of the waves -caused by the fall. After leaving Icy Bay we touched at Treadwell at -noon, where are located some famous gold mines. Most of the passengers -went ashore and were permitted to go through the large buildings of -the mining company, and see the operations of getting gold from rocks. -The blasting was going on a short distance off. The ore was -transported by rail to the mill, and then pounded into powder by -several hundred powerful steam hammers, which made a prodigious din. -This powdered stone was mixed with running water, and we were -informed that the gold was obtained in that way, but we saw none of -it. An hour was quite sufficient for Treadwell, so we steamed over to -this place, nearly opposite, and went ashore. There are several -hundred houses in this town, built at the base of the mountains. Near -the water there was the usual number of Indian women squatting on the -ground and offering baskets and curios for sale. The stores are well -supplied with skins of foxes, bears, and other wild animals, and the -usual goods required in country places. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - THE RETURN VOYAGE, AND SOME STORIES TOLD ON THE WAY. - - -On the evening of the 13th we left Juneau, and reached Chilcat, the -most northerly place on our course, the following morning. Then -commenced the return trip over much the same route which we took on -the outgoing voyage, passing the mountains, glaciers, and islands we -had seen before. The passengers amused themselves in various ways, one -group in the cabin telling stories to pass away the time. - -One of this party interviewed an elderly gentleman, and asked him if -there was not a history connected with the great scar which extended -across his face, and the gentleman very kindly told the following, -which may be called-- - - - THE CAPTAIN'S STORY. - -"My name is Neilson, and I have been at sea since I was a boy. For -many years I served before the mast, then as mate, and finally as -captain, on many voyages in different parts of the world. Back in the -fifties I was in command of a whaling ship owned in San Francisco, and -we sailed from that port to the selected cruising ground in Behring -Sea, between the Aleutian Islands and Behring Strait. Once we sailed -through the strait into the Arctic Ocean, but the intense cold and -immense masses of floating ice drove us back in a damaged condition. -We secured a good many whales after some months' cruising about, -until, one day, a violent storm came up, and we were driven ashore on -St. Lawrence Island, near North Cape. The ship was a total loss, but -all the officers and crew succeeded in getting ashore, and a passing -ship took us back to San Francisco. I stopped in the city for some -weeks, and talked a good deal with an old friend, Captain Samuel, who -had also been so unfortunate as to lose his ship on a whaling voyage. -We looked about and found some capitalists who purchased a ship for -us, and we determined to try our luck again, searching for whales in -the Behring Sea. Captain Samuel suggested that I should be captain and -he would act as mate, but I told him no, that he, being the elder and -more experienced, should be captain, and I the mate, and it was so -arranged. The captain of a whaling craft always has a share of the -results of the voyage, and the mate another, but not so large as the -captain's. It was agreed between us that on this voyage we would -divide the profits, if any, equally. It will be understood that at -this time whaling voyages were very profitable, sperm oil often -selling in the San Francisco market for two dollars and fifty cents -per gallon. - -"We shipped a crew of ten men, and a second mate, took on provisions -for a long voyage, and sailed for Behring Sea. We cruised about over -three months, and had remarkable success, having harpooned and secured -several large sperm whales, so we felt that we were going to have a -good voyage. - -"The crew was a rough one, and sometimes we heard murmurs of -discontent about the labor of trying out the oil, and about the food, -but we paid no attention, thinking it only the usual growling among -sailors. One day the captain and I were in the cabin, when he, hearing -a noise, stepped on deck, and was at once assaulted by a man with a -cutlass, and instantly killed. Hearing the uproar, I too rushed on -deck only to be in season to see the prostrate form of the murdered -captain, and a sailor with a drawn cutlass coming toward me. As I -backed down the companion-way he hit me on the head, where the scar -is, which has attracted your attention. I fell into the hold, and the -mutineers, thinking I was dead, did not follow me. I found, in the -hold, the second mate, unhurt, who staunched the flowing blood from my -wound, and bound it up with some old canvas. At that time I was nearly -forty years younger than I am now, and was as tough as men are made. -The mutineers heard us moving about, and fired at us with muskets -loaded with ball, but did not hit us. For some reason, they did not -venture down after us, probably because they knew there were loaded -muskets within our reach, and that we would be sure to use them. We -found the muskets, but they were useless, having been wet. - -"As every moment's delay was dangerous, we being liable to be hunted -down, killed, and thrown into the sea, to follow the body of our -murdered captain, it became necessary for us to think and act quickly. - -"We could hear the men, who were collected together directly over the -cabin, talking loudly and excitedly. I knew where the magazine was, -and getting a keg of powder, placed it directly under where the -mutineers were standing, laid a train from it to the bow of the -vessel, and touched a match to it. The explosion was almost -instantaneous, and tremendous in its results, throwing to the right -and left that part of the cabin over which the mutineers were, and -killing or drowning every man except three, who, evidently thinking -the ship was a wreck, hastily got into a boat and rowed away. - -"We listened for some time, but hearing no noise, went on deck, and -found on examination that the hull of the ship was perfectly sound, -and that no damage had been done to the masts; so that with some -assistance we could navigate her into port. We obtained the assistance -required from a passing vessel, and in due season arrived at San -Francisco. There was a good deal of valuable sperm oil on board, -which was sold, and gave the second mate and myself quite a sum of -money, the owners being disposed to be liberal under the extraordinary -circumstances. - -"After this, I concluded to abandon the sea, and went into the -business of supplying water to ships in the port of San Francisco. - -"I had followed this business for twelve years, when one day, as I was -furnishing water for a whaling ship, I saw among the sailors a man -who, I felt quite certain, was the ring-leader of the gang of -murderous mutineers who killed our captain and came so near making an -end of me. I communicated my suspicions to the captain of the whaler, -but he said that his ship was ready to sail, and that he would take -the man, but would keep a watch on him, and find out if he talked -while at sea. When this ship returned, the captain sought me out, and -said: 'He is your man, for he talked during the voyage, and told about -being on a ship on which an explosion took place, and he and two -others were the only survivors.' I had the man arrested, but the -administration of justice was very lax at that time in California, -and the time which had elapsed since the commission of the crime -rendered proof difficult to obtain, so the man escaped the gallows. - -"This, gentlemen, is the story of how I became scarred for life, as -you see." - -Another tale related by one of the storytelling group ran as follows: - - - THE TRAVELLER'S STORY.--AN UMBRELLA. - -"I am an expert in umbrellas, take good care of them, and they -generally serve me for many years. I have one purchased in Florence, -another from the Bon Marché, Paris, and this one, which I hold in my -hand, bought at the Burlington Arcade, London, has been a good and -faithful servant, having been used as a cane when tramping through -Italy, France, Germany, and England. It has sheltered me from the -rains of Japan, and the terrible sun in China, Ceylon, India, Egypt, -and Turkey. It has been re-covered in Vienna, and had a new stick put -in at New York, and, as you see, is now in fair condition. One day, in -Constantinople, I wandered along the street called La Grande Rue de -Pera, which is about a mile long, and on which are located the -principal foreign shops; but I failed to discover anything grand about -it, and one is annoyed to have to avoid stepping on great yellow dogs, -who are sleeping on the sidewalks, when there are any, and in the -roadway. At one end of this street are cable cars, which carry you -down a sharp incline to the streets on the water. I took one of these -cars down, and in a few minutes passed over the famous bridge which -connects Galata with Constantinople proper, to a wharf, where I was -detained some time waiting for a steamboat to take me on the splendid -and never-to-be-forgotten trip up the Bosphorus, to the entrance of -the Black Sea. Many large yellow dogs were wandering about on the -wharf, and one of them coming near me, I scratched his back with this -umbrella, which he took for a hostile demonstration, and bit the -umbrella in a most savage way, with his long, sharp teeth. I succeeded -in getting it away from him, and was glad that he did not try his -teeth on me. From that day I have been careful about undertaking to -pet strange dogs with umbrellas, or anything else, but I forgot the -Constantinople experience yesterday at Sitka, when I went ashore, and -after wandering around among the Indian women, who were sitting on the -grass surrounded by their mats, bottles, and various curios, I stopped -opposite one of them, and saw, lying down in front of her, a very -small dog, which I supposed was a puppy, but it proved to be full -grown, and a very ugly little beast. I touched him with the umbrella, -and he barked in a furious manner, and making one jump, fastened his -teeth into my leg above the knee. I shook him off, the Indian woman -put him under her blanket, and I returned to the ship to repair -damages with court-plaster, vowing that never shall this umbrella be -used again to pet a strange dog." - -Indian reminiscences being in order, one of our party related the -following: - - - SARAH ARBUCKLE AND THE INDIAN CHIEF. - A STORY OF FRONTIER LIFE IN NEW HAMPSHIRE. - -"Sarah Arbuckle came to this country, with her father and brothers, -about 1740, when she was sixteen years old. They settled in the midst -of a dense wilderness, where the town of Merrimac now stands, many -miles from neighbors, and she was their housekeeper. It was so lonely -that many times a day, she would step out-of-doors to listen for the -sound of their axes, and if it ceased for any length of time, she -would tremble with fear lest the Indians or wild beasts had attacked -them. - -"One morning she was stooping over the fireplace, making the -'stirabout' (Indian hasty pudding) for breakfast, when a shadow -falling across the floor startled her, and turning hastily to the open -door, she was frightened almost to death at the sight of a gigantic -Indian standing at the threshold, with blood streaming down all over -one side of his face. He tried to speak to her, but she could not -understand him. When she was a little over her fright, she saw that -there was an arrow sticking in his eye, which he wanted her to remove. -She plucked up courage, drew the arrow out, dressed the wound, gave -him food, and he stayed there and was cared for a few days, and then -disappeared in the woods. Some years after this occurrence, a war -broke out between the Indians and settlers, and the Arbuckles were -preparing to remove to the garrison house for safety, when, one -evening, a band of Indians, with fearful yells, burst in the doors of -their house, and the tomahawk was just descending on Sarah's head, -when at a word spoken by a chief, who rushed in after them, every -warrior dropped his hand, and silently, one after another, filed out -into the darkness, leaving the chief with the family. He had learned -enough English to tell them that he had been there before, and had -been assisted by them, and that they need fear nothing. They might -remain on their place, and would not be molested. They did so -throughout the war, and had no further trouble. This Indian came to -see them annually, for years after, always bringing them some little -present." - - * * * * * - -These and other stories helped us to while away the time until we -arrived at Nanaimo, at six o'clock on the morning of July 16th. Here -our party left the steamer and embarked on a ferry-boat. - -In two hours we landed at Vancouver, British Columbia, and found there -a first-class hotel. Ten years ago, we were informed, the place on -which the city is built was a wilderness, but when the Canadian -Pacific Railroad made it the western terminus of its line, there was -at once a "boom," such as has been seen so often in our own Western -States, and now there are banks, public buildings, fine streets, -electric cars, and all the appliances to make strangers and residents -happy. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - ON THE CANADIAN PACIFIC. - - GLACIER HOUSE, - CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY, July 19, 1892. - - -We left Vancouver at 2.20 P.M. on the 16th, and made our acquaintance -with this great transcontinental railway. I think it fully as good as -any of those over which I have travelled in recent years. A good -roadbed, fine and comfortable cars, polite attendants, and every thing -supplied to make travelling agreeable. The road runs for many miles on -the banks of the Frazier River. Great mountains tower above, covered -with snow, and there are distant views of glaciers, which would have -been thought immense if we had not seen those in Alaska. We were -detained all day Sunday at a place called Kamloops, a telegram having -been received that a freight train had been derailed eighty miles -eastward. Some of us attended service at a small Methodist Church, -and listened to a good sermon from a young man who had for a -congregation only about twenty persons. Leaving Kamloops on the -evening of the 17th, we arrived here at seven the next morning. This -hotel, which was built and is kept by the railway company, is a fine -one, and guests are made very comfortable by the excellent manager, -Mr. Pearly. The valley through which the road passes does not contain -more than two or three hundred acres, and is surrounded by immense -mountains, one of which, Sir Donald, is a mile and a half high. Small -streams of melted ice and snow come rushing down from the tops of -these mountains, and form a pretty little river, in some places not -more than twenty-five feet wide. Our party took a two-mile walk over a -rough path to a great glacier among the mountains, Mr. Pearly acting -as guide. It was a hard tramp through the woods, and over small -streams, but we all survived it, and in a couple of hours returned to -the hotel, very much fatigued, but well pleased. Near the hotel, the -railway tracks are covered with substantial snow-sheds about a mile -long, made of heavy planks and timber, affording an excellent place -for walking and viewing the surrounding mountains. A party of ladies -and gentlemen went out on these sheds this morning, and spent some -time walking back and forth, viewing the magnificent scenery. The -surrounding mountains appeared colossal in their grandeur. We had a -fine view of them, and of the great glacier, and the valley below. The -scenery all along this railway from Vancouver impresses me as the most -splendid I have ever seen anywhere, with the exception of once, when -we came up from the hot plains of India, crossed the Ganges, and -taking a little narrow-gauge railway, crawled up the mighty Himalayas -to Darjeeling, arriving at sunset. It was a glorious sight, four -mighty ranges of mountains, among them Mount Everest, twenty-nine -thousand feet high. But this is a digression. From our place of -observation on the snow-sheds we were looking down into the valley, -when suddenly Mr. Edwin T. Townsend shouted: "There is a bear," and -all eyes were turned in the direction of the little stream running -through the valley below, about one-third of a mile off. On a small -island in this stream, wandering about, was a big grizzly, as large -as a cow. He was in sight for half an hour, and seemed to be a playful -kind of a beast. He would wade out into the stream, and get something -to eat, probably refuse from the hotel, then go ashore and devour it; -and once he got hold of a good-sized spruce-tree and shook it -violently. Mr. Eden, of Winnipeg, went to the hotel for a gun, and, -accompanied by another gentleman, tried to head off the bear and get a -shot at him, but he disappeared and could not be found. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - - BANFF SPRINGS. - - BANFF SPRINGS HOTEL, - CANADIAN NATIONAL PARK, July 22, 1892. - - -We left the Glacier Hotel on the 19th, at 1 P.M., or, as stated in the -time tables of this country, at thirteen o'clock, and arrived here at -11 P.M. We spent the whole time on the observation car, viewing the -mighty mountains and magnificent scenery along the banks of the -Columbia and the Beaver. - -Banff is an ideal place for an hotel, being situated near the Bow -River Falls and the mouth of the Spray, and surrounded by great -mountains, often ten thousand feet high. There are fine roads and -walks everywhere. The hotel is a splendid one, built and run by the -railway company, and everything about it is first-class. Sulphur -springs are located two miles up among the mountains, the water being -brought down in pipes to the rear of the hotel, where there are -bathing houses, and an open-air bathing tank, thirty by twenty feet -and five feet deep. The water in this tank is strongly impregnated -with sulphur. Young Mr. Townsend and I took a bath in this tank, and -found the water so delightful, soft, and nice to swim about in, that -we stopped in too long, or were not sufficiently cautious coming out, -and I caught a bad cold, followed by a cough and headache, and -consequently had to spend a couple of days in bed, seeking, with the -aid of Doctors Diet and Quiet, to recuperate. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - - CONCLUSION. - - -We left Banff at 10.20 P.M. on the 22d, and after two days and two -nights on the cars, reached Winnipeg, the capital of Manitoba. At the -hotel there we found the rooms for which we had telegraphed ready for -us. The sulphur bath at Banff, and the subsequent exposure, proved too -much for me, and I was obliged to go to bed and stay there for a week. -Very often I suffered extreme pain in the head, and was only conscious -of being carefully nursed by my sister and travelling companions, and -attended by a skilful doctor. After three days and nights of -continuous illness I grew better, and began to appreciate how -exceedingly kind every one was. One lady, Mrs. E., of Winnipeg, sent -for my use calf's-foot jelly and beef tea prepared by her own fair -hands, and accompanied with beautiful flowers from her garden. -Another one, Mrs. B., of New Orleans, sent a pot of beautiful -flowering fuchsia. All of which attentions were very acceptable. - -Ever since we left Vancouver, all along the railroad, there was a -small-pox scare. There had been a hundred cases at Victoria, and the -city had been quarantined; reports were also circulated that the -disease was bad at Vancouver, and as a consequence the passengers on -our train were looked upon with suspicion. At one stopping place, -called Medicine Hat, ropes were put around the station, and the -passengers were prevented from going into the town. The governor of -North Dakota issued a proclamation forbidding all persons to come into -that State from Manitoba, by rail or otherwise, because a Chinaman -near the line, and a girl who nursed him, had the small-pox. In two or -three days, however, this proclamation was withdrawn, much to my -relief, as I wished to return home by the shortest route. The Manitoba -Hotel, where we were located, is owned and managed by the Northern -Pacific Railroad Co., and is a model one in every way. - -When sufficiently recovered from my at one time serious illness, I -took several drives about the thriving and beautiful city, and -finally, on August 2d, we started by the Great Northern Railroad for -home. One day at Minneapolis was altogether too little time for seeing -one of the finest cities of its size in the world. Two days were spent -at Chicago, during which we drove around the Exposition buildings, now -rapidly nearing completion; then we took places previously engaged on -the Pennsylvania Limited, and in twenty-five hours were landed in -Jersey City. We happened to occupy a car which had just been put on -the road, containing many new appliances and conveniences, the latest -inventions of Mr. Pullman. - -Thus pleasantly our journey ended, and we arrived safely home again, -after an absence of just fifty-one days. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Another Summer, by Charles J. 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