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diff --git a/40507-8.txt b/40507-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 992a47b..0000000 --- a/40507-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4559 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Challenge of the Dead, by Stephen Graham - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Challenge of the Dead - A vision of the war and the life of the common soldier in - France, seen two years afterwards between August and - November, 1920 - -Author: Stephen Graham - -Release Date: August 14, 2012 [EBook #40507] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CHALLENGE OF THE DEAD *** - - - - -Produced by Barbara Kosker and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - -THE CHALLENGE OF THE DEAD - - - - - _BOOKS BY STEPHEN GRAHAM_ - - A Vagabond in the Caucasus. - Undiscovered Russia. - A Tramp's Sketches. - Changing Russia. - With the Russian Pilgrims to Jerusalem. - With Poor Emigrants to America. - Russia and the World. - The Way of Martha and the Way of Mary. - Through Russian Central Asia. - Priest of the Ideal. - Russia in 1916. - The Quest of the Face. - A Private in the Guards. - Children of the Slaves. - The Challenge of the Dead. - - - - - The Challenge of the Dead - - A vision of the war and the life - of the common soldier in France, - seen two years afterwards between - August and November, 1920 - - - - - By - Stephen Graham - - - - - Cassell and Company, Ltd - London, New York, Toronto and Melbourne - 1921 - - - - -The Challenge of the Dead - - -The suns shines and a strong wind lifts the waves toward the land; the -blue sea, in happy commotion, throws armfuls of white spray across the -long stone breakwater which is called Zeebruges Mole. The white stone -way goes two miles out to sea, and is swept by a marine healthiness. -Upon it at intervals stand the German guns with the ends of their -barrels burst out like thistle-heads. They point o'er the sea; they have -their armoured shelter on the inner side of which on the level with the -gunner's eye stand inscribed in neat German _schrift_ the distances to -all places of importance within gunshot--greenish-yellow camouflaged -German guns with something of the tiger in their expression. On the lee -side of the Mole cling the giant sheds of hydroplanes--as it were, -hooked to the side of the great stone wall. In the quieter water on this -side of the Mole one sees jutting out of the fairway the tops of vessels -sunk there in 1918, and near by is a tablet marking the spot where the -landing-party of the _Vindictive_ made its daring raid upon the foe. - -Zeebruges! A party of school-children in "croc" are being escorted along -the way by nuns; the Smiths of Surbiton have scrawled their names on the -guns. There is a half-way house on the Mole now where one drinks beer -and buys a picture postcard, or at the base of the Mole and looking -outward toward England, one may dine alfresco at a Grand Palace Hotel. -But what of that! The whole is sun-drowned and wind-swept and bare and -open with a spaciousness and grandeur which are ample for the soul. The -breeze which blows from England slackens nothing ere it reaches those -fields where the wild flowers and the rushes bloom. - -The mind goes back to 1914 and that great October when Antwerp fell but -Ypres was held--when the last transports rolled alongside this glorious -Mole bearing the Seventh Division, soon to be called, in faith, -immortal, because half its number was destroyed before the war was very -old. - - October fifth they sailed away - Upon the salt sea's raging spray - And landed safe in Bruges bay - Upon their way to Ypres. - -They stepped up from the boats, new, ruddy, well equipped, intact--they -rolled forward, with drums beating, o'er the Belgian land. Now all who -ever will arrive in Zeebruges from o'er the sea will arrive after the -Seventh Division. The war-pilgrim, paying his due of honour to those -who came that day, cannot follow very far on their road unless he die -also. If he chooses to follow any one soldier, will he not very likely -come soon to the road's end and a grey wooden cross where his soldier's -destiny dipped into eternity? - -Follow, then, the many who ran in the great torch race of the war, where -the spent runner handed the torch from his hand to another, who in turn -ran with it blazing till he fell, thus from Zeebruges to Ypres; from -Ypres, flaming, to Neuve Chapelle; from Neuve Chapelle, flaming, to -Loos; then aflame to the defence of the Salient; then a long blaze to -the sevenfold altar of the Somme ... man to man, unit to unit, period to -period, till the November when the race was won. - -Was it not characteristic of the old war that the "Contemptibles" of the -Seventh, landing at Zeebruges, should at once be marched thirty miles in -the wrong direction and then brought back by train. Antwerp was the -beacon; Antwerp was not yet taken; the Naval Brigade was trying to save -it. It was to fall, Zeebruges was to fall, Ostende itself was to -fall--all very rapidly. When the boys got to Bruges it was rumoured that -the Germans had had a set-back; when they got to Ostende they heard that -Antwerp had been taken. When they got back to Bruges terror had seized -the city. When they got to Ghent they took the Antwerp road--and then -they came back, to Ypres. - -The cobbled way to Bruges is not marked by destruction. The trees give -shade, the houses stand, the fields are ploughed. Alice in an estaminet -says she learned French from the French prisoners kept there--her bar -used to be crowded with them. The Belfry of Bruges stands against the -sky ahead--as if lifted out of the plain up to heaven itself. - -You cross a canal which looks like a moat, and are in Bruges itself, a -perfectly whole, undamaged, serene and peaceful city. Trams, shops, -carts pulled by dogs, rows of estaminets, old gateways, old churches, -and then the Grande Place. The broad market-place is empty, but one sits -facing the great tower and listens to the ever-repeating chimes of the -bells--silver in the evening hour. It is--no, it is impossible--yes, it -is "The Rosary" which is being played by the bells. "_I ... strive ... -to kiss the Cross_," yells the steeple, and then goes plaintive and -trickles tunefully away. - - * * * * * - -"Well, here I am and here I remain," says an old man sitting behind me -with a coffee-glass which he has long since drained. "Till England -becomes sane, I stay here." - -"The cost of living is just as high in Peebles as in London," says a -woman sitting opposite him. - -"Mad everywhere," says the man. "What I'd like is a flat somewhere near -Lancaster Gate, so as I could go out into Kensington Gardens and sit -under the trees and smoke." - -There was a pause. - -Then the woman from Peebles ventured in a thin, small voice: - -"I think that Peter Pan statue in Kensington is so sweet. It was put up -in the night, wasn't it?" - -"Yes, it was; and isn't Kensington a delightful place?" says the old -man. - -They gloated in silence over Kensington. The bells of the Belfry began -selections from _Faust_. _Is there a war on?_ men used to ask -facetiously. "There never was any war," says Bruges. The sound of the -boots has long since died away, the _boots, boots, boots, boots, -marching up and down again_, away, away--this city was not delivered -unto the Angel of Death. - -It's a shady highway that goes eastward to Ostende. At the village of -St. Andrews there is a first war memorial to Belgian soldiers who gave -their lives in the war; and then you come to the open ground at -Varssenaere where the 20th Brigade did outpost duty, the first -resting-ground for many a man, if rest he could, on his first night on -the terrain of war--Varssenaere, a mean red-brick village with -estaminets and small shops. Next day 'twas Steine and then Ostende. - -October 9, 1914, they marched into Ostende station, crowded with wounded -men who had been rushed down from the stricken front. Antwerp had -fallen. The trains which brought the wounded down took the new army -back--back to Bruges, on to Ghent, and tumbled it out into that great -old city. The streets were full of refugees, but the khaki tide rolled -forward through the crowds, past the cathedral, out by the Lokeren road, -to meet the foe. - -Ghent also is an undamaged city. Our airmen spared her; our cannon could -not reach her. She was not taken by assault, but fell into the enemy's -hands. It is prosperous, all its factory chimneys are a-smoke. Cheap -plenitude fills its shop windows. Its people are at work--or, rather, -they are at work when there is not a _groodefeest_. - -It is calm on the Lokeren road. You cannot hear the battle-thunder of -that October now, the ominous and insistent and encroaching roaring of -the monster who was just spitting and flashing fire at Ghent in those -days. You can see with the mind's eye the new army with its new boots -and its sore feet and its loads of equipment. It did not carry bombs and -it did not carry gas-masks, but it carried everything else. One can see -the perplexed and anxious Staff looking at the _intelligence_ brought -in--the Germans held nowhere, the Germans in vast numbers, truly ready -and capable of sweeping the contemptibly little army into the sea, the -Germans advancing everywhere. The order comes to retire. -Retire--retreat--might not the retreat from Antwerp resemble the retreat -from Mons? It is retreat in any case. Back into Ghent; back, perhaps, to -Bruges and to Ostende. No one talks of Ypres. The army does not yet know -where Ypres is. However, they filed through Ghent, and it was once more -boots, boots, boots, boots over the cobbled roads. It was midnight, and -they traversed the whole broad metropolis--singing a song which has not -been forgotten in all the intervening years. - -But now it is midnight again, the night of the 1920 National Fête, and -the whole population has got singing drunk and then screaming drunk on -beer. Tens of thousands of men and women flock the streets. There are -fireworks, there is music, there is dancing. The fronts of the -estaminets have been taken out, and seats go from the bar to the middle -of the street; long tables on trestles, and plank seats, have been put -out; piles of shrimps litter the tables from end to end, and the yellow -beer gleams as it streams. Tired children are massed on the cathedral -steps waiting for the fireworks to begin, and past those who sit surges -a tireless crowd. - -In the Groensel Maarkt a truly Dostoieffskian scene. A soldier with one -arm, a diminutive woman with dislocated hips, and two children are -singing Flemish songs to a ring of people of varying ages. The old -soldier has a sheaf of leaflets with the words of the songs and sells -them a penny a time, a small boy plays the concertina, "mother" sings -all the while a murmuring sing-song which never rises or falls, and -keeps time with her wasp-like waist, which seems to hang from the black -hump of her hips and sways uncannily back and forth. Father with the one -arm also sings all the while he sells, the little girl sings, and the -boy playing the concertina sings also. To the tune of "Way Down in -Tennessee" they sing: - - Ik noem haar mijn everzwijn - Mijn voddenmagazijn - -They sing too, over and over again, a Flemish song about the war: - - Nog niet genoeg dat hij - Binst d'oorlog was in 't lij - Tot overmaat huns laffe daad - Der duitschers vol van haat... - -and a haunting chorus which begins: - - Hoe ... kan het bestaan - Dat men een man, die gansch zijn plicht - toch heeft gekweten - -and glasses of beer pass over the heads of the audience to the singing -family. All in a dark, empty market-place, with somebody's statue -looking down on the scene and many a tear softening human eyes. - -The rockets shoot up to the height of the cathedral spire and break in -coloured lights, the large catherine-wheels are lit, the children clap -and chase one another for firework cases. - -At two in the morning strings of men and women holding on to one another -parade the streets and kick out with their legs, attempting to dance -whilst they sing "Tipperary," "Marguerite," "Mademoiselle from -Armentières," "Hoe kan het bestaan," the new girls in knee-skirts with -spindly legs, the old wives in longer heavier ones, exposing when they -dance white baggy drawers like Canterbury bells. At four in the morning -there are still ten thousand in the streets; men and women have made -circles round trees and lamp-posts, and kick out as they try to roll -round; knots of men and girls go staggering past with howls and yells; -young Flemish fellows are squeezing girls of twenty and pressing down -their cheeks with large-mouthed kisses. At six, in the heavenly radiance -of a pure morning, pandemonium still rolls on. - -Yes, it is good beer. The first glass of it on a hot day is -refreshing--a flagon at lunch does not come amiss. But these men and -women sat for hours pouring it in with floating shrimps--glasses, -quarts, sitting on low seats with their legs apart, and visibly filling. -And this plenitude did not make them weary. _Au contraire_, beer got -into their toes and their knees and their thighs and their fat arms and -necks, and expressed itself at all points of the body. I suppose one -good reason for running in queues was that all holding on to one another -none could fall down. One of the reasons why the bacchanalia continued -long after morning-life had supervened was that many had forgotten they -had any homes and mostly did not know where they were. - -What a night! Six years ago on that other night it was different. -Anxiety and foreboding throbbed in these streets. Belgian manhood in -arms marched away. The British marched away, and by midnight the last -soldier had gone. Suspense ... and then at two in the morning the first -German, a motor-cyclist, armed, goggled, covered with dust, vigilant.... -And from the dawn German order reigned in Ghent--no bacchanalias. - -The army went out by night by many roads, making, however, for Bruges. -It fell back for the defence, perhaps, of Bruges and of Ostende. -Brussels had fallen, and Ghent--there was not much of Belgium left. The -first morning out of Ghent saw the army at Somerghem, and the second at -Thielt. So tired were the troops that at each halt in the night both -officers and men, lying down by the roadside, fell asleep. At the halts -the men bumped into one another mechanically, like the trucks of a -freight train coming to a sudden stop, and then they just tumbled down -and snored. - -Newly tarred barges loll slowly along the Bruges-Ghent canal, and there -is a vista along the straight water to the belfry of Ghent and the -cathedral. The sides of the canal are lush with verdure; health and -happiness spread out from its banks. One would say also the war never -was here. But in Somerghem the old church on the hill crowning the town -has been blown up. Its tower gave a view for leagues around, and the -Devil made good use of it when he had a chance and when he had done his -task blew it up lest others should follow his example. The Germans -evacuated the town just before the end of the war; the Belgian army -bombarded it and placed a gas concentration there. It was retaken, but -at the price of a most beautiful church. The inhabitants are all back. -They remember the Tommies and, of course, the Scots. The Gordons in -their kilts made a lasting impression. Somerghem saw much war life -before the enemy marched away, and German soldier life, with its -violently repressive military discipline and its correspondingly lax -morality, was rife. The more perfect their military obedience the less -heed there was of God. - -One sees in these parts not a few war-babies, and worse than these, for -they are innocent enough, one sees war-children in adolescence. The -numbers of depraved young girls is appalling. Perhaps there were many -before the war, but they look rather like war products. How many of them -there are in the beer-houses and backyards of the small towns! It is -difficult to avoid adventures with them. Bertha and Martha, depraved -little rascals, come running along the canal bank, one in clogs, one in -stocking soles. They talk scraps of German and scraps of French, and -make disgusting gestures and throw themselves about in hard, coarse -laughter. Martha is a strong and brazen little hussy with red face and -fat little arms. Bertha is a soft-witted, pallid slip of a girl with -full throat and weak lips. Both have long black finger-nails, both are -in cotton rags; but Bertha has a large yellow festering wound on her -ankle which she says was caused by a bit of shrapnel. Bertha is the -younger. Martha may be sixteen; Bertha would be two years younger. And -Martha would get Bertha into trouble. "Take Bertha!" she says -continually, suggestively making signs. Poor war-children! When the war -began Martha was ten and Bertha was eight. Martha was corrupted in it; -pale, sickly, weak-lipped Bertha, with the shrapnel wound, perhaps not -actually corrupted. When the wound had been examined and their nails cut -they concluded they had met a doctor. - -They scamper away at last. The dark water of the canal flows peacefully -between banks of untarnished green. Nature is unqualified loveliness. -At Somerghem, however, behind this veil there has been war, there has -been something of the curse. One begins to notice in old walls patches -of new brick where shell-holes in human habitations have been cobbled. -Re-pointing is going on. The splash where the splinters of iron rived a -whole house has been sought to be gently erased. The most virtuous work -in the world! But it splashed on to the children too, and who can -re-point the Berthas and the Marthas? - -Enfin, the fair-sized town of Thielt, would-be picturesque but -surprisingly shabby, not clean, not cleaned up, not quite like Belgium. -The dirtiest of all possible hotels, more like a billet than a hotel, -unswept floors, smashed china, supper in a kitchen which does not gleam -like housewife's honour. It is a town unlike Ghent, unlike Bruges. It -has not, however, been much shelled. British and Belgian gunners seem to -have had orders to spare friendly cities. But there is no doubt that -Thielt was in the war. Half its present inhabitants are _revenants_, as -the French call those pitiful spirits who return to the places where -they used to live. Mine host fled to Paris in 1914, and did not make a -fortune there; he talks bitterly of _Bosches_ and compensation. He is -forty-six and set. Six years ago he felt a young man, he says, but -to-day he is not ready to start anything new. - -On then towards Roulers! 'Tis in gloomier country and with poor people. -All high roads are under repair. If shells spared Thielt, they did not -spare the roads. Where British army leather beat the cobbles in that -long march back from Ghent, whistling shells touched later and blew up -the ground that had been beneath their feet. The patient Flemish farmers -hung on to their farms on each side of the shell-pitted road, and their -cattle grazed in the fields with an equanimity that was sublime. For -four years the cannon-thunder never ceased, and every night war flamed -around the heavens, but the men on the soil remained true to the soil -and drove straightly their ploughs. - -Not a few farmers were killed; they also were heroes, for they died at -their posts. But no patriotic cockade marks their humble graves. -Plentiful now are the crosses ornamented with flowers and the red, white -and blue, for those _morts pour la patrie_. Above Ardoye the -first-noticed wayside cemetery of German soldiers appears, and there -lies Franz Delmann, of Chemnitz, and many others who died in November, -1917. It is high up on a ridge beside the position of an old German -battery. How the shells used to howl from this eminence over Roulers, -over Passchendaele and leagues of destruction right into Ypres itself! -Here in old days the grubby war-worn Germans plied the guns, and here -the British guns found their prey also, and our enemies were put to -sleep in this acre of death. Now most of the crosses are down, the -cross-pieces of others have been taken away, part of the field has been -dug up with a spade. For after all the ground is appropriated Belgian -property. It was never paid for and it reverts to its owner, dead and -all. What a pathetic tragedy is that of the dead the Germans left -behind! Each cross, each dead one, refers back to some living family, -some home, some set of human circumstances. What thoughts, what -questions do not go out on the air from obscure homes to the dead who -have been left behind! The reins which go from the living to the dead! - -But enemies take little stock of one another's dead. Roulers, which is -vis-à-vis to Ypres, lay partially destroyed and now it is being builded -up again. If the dead could be made to pay for it the dead would. The -living for the living! Roulers was a fine city once. The creative eye -sees that it can be so again. The British gunners could have laid it -flat as Ypres but they did not. Ypres can never be raised. But Roulers -will be Roulers once again. As one approaches it, behold, what activity. -New houses have sprung up overnight. There are thousands of piles of -bricks. Every Belgian has learned bricklaying. Clerks, shopkeepers, -salesmen, porters, in shirt sleeves and plaster-sprinkled hats, are at -work--_without trade union rules_. Hundreds of thousands of whitish -vermilion flesh-coloured old bricks are being made fit to use again, -new bricks in tiers are apparent in improvised kilns, and all day and -every day sounds the chipping and slapping of real reconstruction. Iron -girders are being fitted into the gutted depths of old shop-fronts, and -with foundations and framework it is marvellous how speedily old houses -are built up. The city is poor. Its many factory chimneys are innocent -of smoke. Roulers for flax! It was famous for its linen industry. Two -Scotch engineers, met at a hotel, are fitting in new machinery in the -factories. Typical uncommunicative Britons, they volunteer no -information, but sit face to face over their meals, lean over their food -and chuckle to one another in private monosyllables. When asked how they -are getting on, one of them replies: - -"Och slowly, man, slowly. They Chairmans didna leave muckle when they -went awa!" - - * * * * * - -And six years ago the Army continued to fall back. Zeebruges whence it -had started, Bruges and Ostende, and Ghent which it had marched through, -became enemy country without much shedding of blood. No one stood long -for their defence. After Roulers the name of a much less famous place -than Bruges or Ghent came on to men's lips. Did they know that they were -going to stand for the defence of it? No, it is all unlikely. And as -they marched to Ypres they providentially did not know the four years' -hell of which they trod the stage. War all over by Christmas was their -thought if they thought at all as they marched o'er the ridge of -Passchendaele in October, 1914. - -The soldier, it is said, has an elementary mind which does not imagine, -does not think--a regimental mind. Others therefore must think about him -and do the thinking for him. See, the dusty khaki-clad regulars as yet -unbaptised by fire, but unknowingly on the brink of annihilation, -treading the ground where - - Few shall part where many meet... - And every turf beneath their feet - Shall be a soldier's sepulchre. - -Thus they marched into Ypres--"as pretty a town as you'd care to see -after a day's march." Oh, it's highly romantic to look back to it now. - - Banners yellow, glorious golden, - On its roof did float and flow. - This, all this, was in the olden time - Long ago. - -The business centre of Ypres was invested with a dignity which was not -merely commercial in those old days when the silver chimes rolled -regularly the quarter-hours from the Cloth Hall tower. And the Army -arrived, the army for the defence of Ypres. They will dig trenches and -throw out wire south of Ypres, looking at Kemmel without knowing its -name, walking on Hill 60 before it was numbered and named. - -A quiet and little marked country south of Roulers now gives way first -to trees not quite dead but sprouting green from black trunks, and then -to blasted trees dead to the core. After a mile or so farm-houses and -cultivation cease and one enters the terrible battle area of -Passchendaele, all pits, all tangled with corroded wire--but now as it -were in tumultuous conflict with Nature. Chiefly remarkable are the -magnificent rushes with their black tops rising from almost every -shell-hole. The stagnancy has not dried up, but festers still in black -rot below the rushes. Double shell-holes, treble shell-holes, charred -ground, great pits, bashed-in dug-outs, all overgrown with the highest -of wild flowers--pink willow-herb, burly St. John's wort in a yellow -glare, starry blue of outbreaking chicory, hundred-headed blossoming -sweet thistles growing from the hollows where fell, I doubt not, -Caledonia's sons, foxgloves flowering upward attempting to take crimson -to heaven. Ypres by the compass lies south-west. No, there is nothing on -the horizon, not a wall, not a wood, only the bare eminence of Kemmel -Hill. Before you is a vast fen. Some Flemings are at work on it in shirt -sleeves, but not a soul is traversing it. You constantly change your -direction: there is no going directly. It is impassable. You make for -what once was a wood; it afforded cover. What is it now--thrice -thrashed and riven, the abode of rats, lizards, weasels, a calamitous -and precipitous abyss covered with wreckage. Unexploded stick-bombs, -rusty grog-bottles, helmets, lie there still in plenty. Weather-beaten -ammunition baskets with shells intact lie where they fell off the -ammunition waggons or where men dropped them. There are broken rifles, -there are graves. There is all but the blood. But from the blood has -risen flowers. - -On the vast waste you come upon houses built of salvage. Duck-boards -have been gathered in, old bits of rusty corrugated iron which sheltered -trenches and kept out rain have been collected by the returned -Flemish--what a return!--and they have made shacks of shreds and -patches. Fierce dogs on chains bark from them; no children venture -forth--there are no children there. Heaps of the jetsam of the -battlefields are in the yards. The uncouth workers are not too pleased -to see any stranger, and look suspiciously at you. They have pistols -ready at need. For these oases in the wilderness are not unvisited by -robbers, and thieves lurk in old holes in the ground. It has needed -courage to come back to your old ten acres. Few of these Flemish are -owners; they are only tenants. Their landlords allow them now three -years rent free. From the hut made of salvage starts the regeneracy of -the land. In an irregular patch round its gates lies the first reclaimed -ground, a mere kail yard, a bean plot. There are wonderful crops of -beans, higher than beans are wont to grow, bean-stalks to climb up. -Tobacco also has been growing, for the leaves hang wilting from green to -yellow on the outside of the unpainted wooden walls. But beyond the -oasis the tall black-topped reeds, like Guardsmen of the vegetable -world, go rank beyond rank to the eyes' end. One comes to a road, and -there is what was Zonnebeke resurrected in a tail of diminutive cabins -each roofed with corrugated iron, each numbered as a claim for -reparation. Not a few of the houses are named thus:--"In den Niewen -wereld." Half of them seem to be estaminets. - -It is the same at Becelaere. The people earn a living drinking beer in -one another's estaminets. - -"I wouldn't never have come back had I known it was like this," says a -Belgian woman. "I had good job at Rouen all the war, make plenty money, -not like this." - -"How was that?" - -"Me cook in sergeants' mess, huh, plenty food, plenty money." - -"That's where you learned English?" - -"Yes." - -There were two British Tommies drinking beer at the estaminet, one an -R.E. the other an R.F. both talking knowingly about the old war. They -had a motor-lorry which was waiting outside. - -"Take a lift?" said they. - -"Where to?" - -"Polygon Wood." - -To be on one of those old blundering kindly quixotic lorries again, -pounding along a war-stricken highway! One might have thought the old -lorry had now ceased its devils' dance. But no, it still has a duty to -perform. Presently we pass a red-cross ambulance. - -"Got any to-day?" cries the R.E. to the driver of the ambulance. - -He puts up two fingers. - -"Two ..." says the soldier with an air of satisfaction. "We found a -brigadier-general yesterday," he adds. - -"How do you mean?" - -"Ex-umed 'im. He'd bin missin' since 1916. All this no-man's land bein' -dug up now," said he with a wide sweep of his hand. - -"That your job? It's pretty interesting." - -"It's jolly hard work. But it 'as its better side. Some fellers the -other day came on a dug-out with three officers in it, and they picked -up five thousand francs between 'em." - -The motor-lorry blundered forward toward a stone obelisk planted on a -man-made hillock. On one side was a swamp of green stagnant water; on -the other was a planting out of many hundred crosses of unvarnished -wood. The lorry is full of crosses each named and numbered, roped up in -scores, and these must be dumped inside the enclosure. - -The view from the Polygon monument is desolation on all sides. One -living man standing there is as it were monarch of all the dead. It is a -remarkable eminence, a pillar at Thermopylæ, one thing standing where -all else is lying flat. As it stands to-day it has no inscription. -Polygon--myriad-sided--it is one of the strangest standing places and -shrines of the war. Pause thou who livest: salute the dead! - - * * * * * - -Back thunders the empty lorry--on to the Menin road--and faces Ypres. -You see the grey contour of the tower afar, but doubt whether you are -approaching a city, so flat has all become. Yet certainly it is Ypres. -You enter by a series of new-painted wooden taverns and hotels. You walk -up a wide main street and there is Ypres---- - -A great dust storm is raging here whilst the sun shines out of a perfect -sky. Here are no rushes, no wild flowers, no moisture, but only infinite -debris and the shatterings of old masonry. There is a suggestion of the -desert. A notice says "THIS IS HOLY GROUND" and a barbed wire fence runs -round the whole centre of old Ypres. Within that enclosure lies a ruined -city. Thousands of years ago such a thing happened; all the people were -slain or taken into bondage. No one came back, the victors went away, -and the ruins remained glaring in the sands--centuries, millenniums. -That is the impression of Ypres to-day. It is grim and moving. It is -like the Pyramids. At least a hundred thousand dead lie round it--an -inner circle of the dead and an outer circle of decay. Looking on those -spacious sun-steeped, sand-blown ruins one's mind is inevitably taken to -the East, and a sense of Shelley's poem comes to one-- - - My name is Ozymandias, King of Kings, - Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair. - -Yet six years ago the Cloth Hall tower chimed the quarter-hours! The -road out from the Menin gate was shady. Polygon Wood was a wood, not a -monument. There was seemingly a château near a wood called Hooge. -Zandwoorde Church had a spire. Behold the army however digging itself -in. There are rudimentary lines of defence making a spider's web across -the Menin road. The Twentieth Brigade flounders from Zandwoorde to -Gheluvelt in newly upturned earth. The Germans who followed so rapidly -to Ghent and Thielt and Roulers are hot on the trail, expecting Ypres -also to be left to them without a blow. But they have not arrived. Our -men are sitting on the parapets of their trenches, singing. There have -been no casualties to mention, a few men lost sight of; three sentries -in fact left unrelieved at Ghent. There is a battalion of Guards in the -line at Klein Zillebeke, and not one has yet been killed or wounded. A -battle is coming, however, for the retirement has ceased. - -You turn out of Ypres by the left hand on a road which faces Kemmel -Hill--the Wytschaete road, and you come to a flattened-out village at -cross-roads, called Kruistraat. Where were once ploughed fields is now a -land-ocean of humps and hollows with a foam of wild flowers. Plunging -toward Voormezeele one is intoxicated by a perfume and looking to the -right you see the cause in a field of thistles as thick and close as -wheat. At what was Voormezeele there is now nothing more remarkable than -the crosses of the P.P.C.L.I. the Princess Patricia's Canadian Light -Infantry, who evidently went down in the most terrible way in 1915. Were -not these the Canadians who first tasted the devilry of gas? - -Cemeteries soon become all too frequent and unremarkable. At Klein -Zillebeke there is an Englishwoman going from grave to grave diligently -examining the aluminium ribbons on which the names are fixed to the -wooden crosses--looking perhaps for her husband's grave but with an -expression in her face and form of "They have taken away my Lord, and I -know not where they have laid Him." - -Virbranden Molen, where many encamped, is but a name now, and eastward -the wire-covered duck-boards climb across the rushes and thistles to -what was once a front line, past derelict limbers with rusty broken -wheels, past unexploded five-nines--the wildest way. Reeds have filled -the trenches, grass long and withered swarms o'er the parapets. There -are heaps of rusty Mills bombs which no one has ever come to take away -and no one will; there are ration-tins; there is all manner of army -rubbish everywhere. Pilgrims and tourists evidently collect few -souvenirs on the old Ypres front, and few Americans as yet arrive at -Ypres, which has for them a lesser fame than Château Thierry and Verdun. - -In October, 1914, the line was far in advance of what became such a -carnage-strewn battlefield. Here is the railway cutting, then in supreme -peace, and beyond it is a pale British monument inscribed with many -names, though already defaced--to the memory of a lost mining and -tunnelling company that took a sudden way to heaven before the war was -won. Beyond it is a first German grave, where lie Fleully, Beck, -Dechert, Mehlhorn, and an unknown, and helmets and old bombs strew the -place where they lie. Klein Zillebeke is now marked by a huge concrete -fort. Zandwoorde and Kruisseecke, which were scenes of hand-to-hand -fighting in 1914, soon fell into German hands and remained within the -enemy's lines throughout the war. The old church at Zandwoorde cannot -now be identified by any ruins--one has to ask where it was. Even the -bricks and the stones seem to have been swept away, but there are three -graves there, Captain Rose and Lieutenant Turnor, of the Tenth Hussars, -and a private soldier nameless and unknown, a sort of batman in death. -An estaminet has jumped up like a weed beside the ruins but it has -little trade. Zandwoorde was once a substantial little place but now -perhaps it will not grow again so readily--it is off the main road and -not served by rail. Kruisseecke will be bigger. On October 21st the -Gordons drove the Germans back from Zandwoorde at the point of the -bayonet. On that day the church tower was twice struck by shells. That -was about the beginning of the history. - -The old trenches 'twixt Zandwoorde and Gheluvelt are worn down and -perhaps were never very deep. The shell-holes are much deeper. The land -is desolate and all o'ergrown but it affords a scene of lesser -desolation. The exhumers are patiently seeking for the dead who were -left behind--the old dead of that first battle. It is ghoulish work, but -they have become as matter of fact as can be. - -"No, we don't find many Gordons. But we're picking up a lot o' Borders -just now. Yes, and some Grenadiers. Brought in about thirty Borders -yesterday. It isn't a bad job if they'd pay us more. We gets used to it. -They say as how the Americans won't have the British touch their dead -and have given the job over to the French. Fifteen thousand of them to -be boxed and stuffed--there's a lot of work in that." - -"You must dig up a fair number of Germans. What do you do with them?" - -"Leave them where they are. We notifies the authorities, that's all. Of -course Jerry buried most of his own, and I'll give him credit for that, -he gave every man his eight feet. You don't so easy come across a man -the Germans buried, but some of ours----" - -The weather-beaten Tommy, in old flannel shirt and sagging breeches, -waved his hand and grinned with mirth at our British ways. - -"'S a funny thing though--the British dead keep much longer than the -Germans. If I put a spade through something and it's soft, I know it's a -Jerry." - -"They say the body of a drunkard keeps fresh longest of all because of -the spirit in it." - -"Yes, that's true. And if buried in an oilskin it makes a heap of -difference. But it's queer what you find. We came on a fellow the other -day with a bayonet through his jaw. He'd been buried that way. No one -could get the bayonet out----" - -"Aren't the Germans doing anything to keep their dead? The Belgians -would look after them if they got a hint from Berlin that it would be -worth while." - -"Oh, we'd bury them like Christians if they'd give us another -half-crown on our wages. We ain't got nothing agin 'em--specially the -dead." - -"Do you sleep out here on this battlefield?" - -"We bin 'ere six months now." - -"No ghosts?" - -The man smiled. He saw none. He felt the presence of none. Imagination -did not pull his heart-strings. If it did, he would go mad. - - * * * * * - -Lying in an old trench behold a skull! It is clean and polished--a -soldier's head, low and broad at the brows, high at the back. There is a -frayed hole in an otherwise perfect cranium. The simplest way to pick it -up would be to put a finger in an eye-hole and lift it. You must put -both hands together and raise it fearfully if it be the first skull you -have ever found.... Friend or foe? Hm--there are no identification marks -on this. Thinking anything about it all? No, nothing--long since ceased -to think. Friends living? Probably, somewhere. The more you look at the -skull the more angry does it seem--it has an intense eternal grievance. -This one does not grin, for the mouth has been destroyed. It is just -blind and senseless for ever and ever. - -Such is the Golgotha of Zandwoorde. Gheluvelt, the other end of the -line, has now a diminutive yellow tower of new wood from an improvised -church. Kruisseecke is a rusty-roofed, ramshackle, salvage-built -settlement on the site of complete ruin. You see the yellow tower of -Gheluvelt from all around, and like a livid finger the monument at -Polygon Wood is seen far o'er the battlefields pointing to heaven. - - * * * * * - -In the whole complex story of the battle of Ypres, where so many -regiments were engaged in such diverse parts of the field, with all -their varying calamities and triumphs, it is only possible to realise -the story in glimpses and aperçus. A thousand dramas were being enacted -simultaneously in a clamour so great that no neighbour understood what -was happening to his neighbour. Tragedy was accomplished, swiftly and as -it were privately. A dreadful way of speaking was begotten afterwards, -and men said "He got _his_ at Polygon Wood," or "he got _his_ at the -Château," or "_his_ at Kruisseecke." - -Our gallant marchers, with the confetti as it were still sticking to -them, have seen a great deal of Belgium, have been greatly excited, have -reached Ypres with numbers intact, have taken their stand four feet deep -in the clay of the fields of Zandwoorde and have taken a look round. -They have been shelled. The shells have been falling irrelevantly--far -from them. The first man to perish is a colour-sergeant, who, taking a -stroll, gets shot by accident by an over-hasty sentry. The -colour-sergeant did not quite realise the war till then. Others also did -not realise the silent symbol of the fact that in fighting others you -start by killing yourselves. Next to die is a drummer-boy, killed by a -shell on the way to a hamlet called America, a kilometre beyond -Kruisseecke. With what pathos was that dead boy considered! For he was a -child of the Army. Drummer-boys are nearly always orphans, or boys -without homes, brought up in barracks, taught in the Army school, with -the Army for father and mother, the Army for God, the Army for nurse. -Little drummer-boy dead on the way to America--the first to go West! It -is a matter for pause, for a sad thought. If, however, the dead meet one -another in the other world, as so many now believe, the boy will soon be -comforted, for within the week scores of friends, hundreds of -acquaintances, will join him. See a reconnaissance at Polygon Wood and -Eskernest! Out of a whole company, only twenty-five come back. Its -commander killed. Another company half destroyed--its commander killed -also. Two captains buried side by side near a much-shelled -house--rudimentary wooden crosses put o'er their resting-place. They -were eager impetuous captains who had chafed to wait in England all -August and September. Their minds were full of what the war really -meant. But so soon are they sped! For four years the agony of Ypres -beginning in these days will roll impotently on whilst they lie there, -and the war with its gossip, its articles and speeches, its new -inventions and new bitternesses will go on. God loved them and removed -them betimes from the scene. - -Yet if they see, if they can hear and know from other realms, what a -spectacle, what an intense interest is theirs. To see the remains of -their own poor companies of soldiers march back to Zandwoorde--the "not -the six hundred," to see the ever-encroaching German and the more and -more intimate and terrible strife proceed. The grand emotions of pity -and fear thrill the air as the tumultuous battle goes on.... - -The shell-fire ceases to be irrelevant and finds its mark, turns whole -brigades out of their trenches; reinforcements move with the -acceleration of a moving ant-heap which has been kicked over. False news -comes and confounds true news. The Borders are said to have given way. -Guards and Gordons go to their support. Weak points change to strong -points, strong to weak. Columns of assault are launched by the enemy, -first on one point, then on another. A column breaks through at -Kruisseecke at nightfall. The madness of the murder-excitement enters -the trenches, and it is bayonet to bayonet; the rain streams down to -mingle with blood, it is intensely dark, many have lost their clearness -of mind and balance of nerve. But there is a counter-attack. Gallant -Major F----, leading, is shot down; there is a dreadful mêlée and then -silence. The enemy is winning his way. Nevertheless patrols in -Kruisseecke round up a large number and take them prisoner. There is a -dispute as to who is to have the merit of having taken the prisoners. -But what does that matter? Round about this village is confusion worse -confounded. Germans appear dressed up as Gordon Highlanders, then -Gordons are thought to be Germans in disguise. Strange masses roll up -through the rain looking not at all like Germans and crying "We are -French."--"We are Allies"--"Don't shoot"--"Where is Captain P----?" "We -surrender," and things of that kind. The survivors of a Staffordshire -regiment devoid of officers, officers all down and out, come pelting -through the lines having thrown their rifles away. German yells of -victory break out.... It is a terrible night, one night, one little -corner of the ground outside the city. Dawn comes, and Kruisseecke is -with the enemy. It remains with the enemy. And there for many the march -from Zeebruges ends and a personal war history is concluded. The torch -of war has been carried thus far, to the battle of Ypres. The spent -runner gives it to another who carries it in turn-- - - * * * * * - -Back then to Ypres! It is an exposed moorland way. No woods, no houses -stop the even progress of the wind. The trees are stumps no higher than -Venetian masts. Instead of crops in the fields--crosses, an enormous -harvest. Along the Menin road a steam tram rolls. At the entrance to -Ypres is the communal cemetery of the city. Here, around the pre-war -Belgian dead, lie Hussars, Lancers, Dragoon Guards, Scots Guards, all -officers, all of the 1914 fighting. There they were lowered into graves -with the flag about them--there they remain. In this acre of death the -high wooden crucifix still stands, with its riven agonised Lord looking -down. Of the hundreds of thousands of shells which fell in Ypres all -spared Him--all but one which came direct and actually hit the Cross. -That one did not explode but instead, half-buried itself in the wood and -remains stuck in the upright to this day--an accidental symbol of the -power of the Cross. - - * * * * * - -Ypres is terribly empty. Hundreds of thousands of eyes would look on it -but there are few people who come to look at it--just ones and twos who -stand diminutively in front of the great ruins and peer at them like the -conventional figures in an old print. This absence of the living -intensifies the strange atmosphere. It is said that the city will build -itself up again, but it is possible to feel some doubt on that point. -Perhaps Ypres will never be built again. At present it has some hundred -and fifty places where they sell beer to two where they sell anything -else. Its string of wooden hotels with cubicle bedrooms do not pay. The -curious come for an hour or so from Ostende but do not spend the night. -There is a sense of emptiness and tragedy which cannot be dispelled. -Some sort of unit of British troops does duty instead of police and is -posted to various guards, the sentries being however without rifles. The -soldiers in their "sixth year" impart a certain liveliness. A party of -them at night coming down the middle of the street singing - - One word of thine, - Tell the world you are mine, - And the world will be dearer to me, - -in a full-throated chorus wakens echoes from dark corners of the ruins. -There is music and dancing in favoured taverns. The returned Belgians do -not perhaps belong naturally to the atmosphere of the sublime. They love -beer and sociality. They will make their money by some means--they are -not too particular how. Civilised ethics do not rule in these places -where war has worked its will. - -Strolling along at dusk past the Cloth Hall tower a bright-eyed Belgian -wolf asks you who you are. "_C'est triste, n'est ce pas?_" says he, -pointing to the ruins. _Triste_ is what they are not. The Belgian is -from Poperinghe. It is very dull there now. _Tous les soldats sont -partis._ Also the mamzelles. Pas de jig-a-jig. - -"Like a glass of beer?" asks the Belgian. - -A spare woman of thirty serves two glasses of ale at a table outside a -hotel. She seems to speak English for preference. - -"You want someone to sleep with?" asks the man from Poperinghe. - -"No, I sleep with no man." - -"Not married?" - -"No, and plenty time yet, and I shan't marry an English when I do. The -English are all false." - -The man from Poperinghe seems taken aback. At a further table a curious -scene is being enacted. Here are sitting a pioneer corporal and a -sergeant, both wearing the 1914 ribbon. They have their beer, and -between them is an effervescent loose-mouthed Alsatian. The latter, like -the man from Poperinghe, stands treat. - -"I vill take you, one minit, I vill take you," says the Alsatian, -kissing the tips of his fingers, "just vait, not ten minits from 'ere." - -"Oh you go on, you bloomin' well shut up. I b'lieve you're agent for the -girl or something," says the sergeant. - -"No, listen, I'll tell you vot it is.... C'est de gateau, got that, -gateau; naw need to drink any coffee, just ten minits, you see for -yourself." - -The sergeant makes a mocking show of biffing him in the eye, and grins -all over his weak sun-burnt face. The shoeing corporal sips at his beer -and smirks. The Alsatian on the tips of his toes, leaning forward on -his chair which is tilted toward the table, gesticulates and slobbers-- - -"You wait till you see her, you'll felicitation yourself...." - -And the sergeant is persuaded against his will and goes with him. -Meanwhile dusk has grown to dark, and the ruined Cloth Hall tower on the -other side of the way seems more gloomy, more moody and threatening, as -if the war were not yet over. - -This Ypres is a terrible place still. There is no life when night comes -on but tavern life. Those who live and work here have lost their sense -of proportion. They are out of focus somehow. "You lookin' for dead -soldiers," says a Flemish woman to you with a glaring stare, wondering -if you are one of the exhumers. Death and the ruins completely outweigh -the living. One is tilted out of time by the huge weight on the other -end of the plank, and it would be easy to imagine someone who had no -insoluble ties killing himself here, drawn by the lodestone of death. -There is a pull from the other world, a drag on the heart and spirit. -One is ashamed to be alive. You try to sleep in a little bed in a -cubicle with tiny doll's house window. You listen to a drunken company -down below singing, "Mademoiselle, have you got any rum?" A French -couple enter the room next door, smacking one another's hips and -confounding one another with coarse violent laughter--that is the light -end of the plank. Then night ensues, the real night, breathless and -sepulchral, the night which belongs to all lost hopes and ended lives -and wearinesses. - -You lie listless, sleepless, with Ypres on the heart, and then suddenly -a grand tumult of explosion, a sound as of the tumbling of heavy -masonry. You go to the little window, behold, the whole sky is crimson -once more, and living streamers of flame ascend to the stars. An old -dump has gone up at Langhemarcq. Everyone in Ypres looks out and then -returns to sleep--without excitement. The lurid glare dies down; -stertorous night resumes her sway o'er the living and the dead. For a -moment it was as if the old war had started again. - - * * * * * - -Day dawns in a mist. A veil hides the inner reality of Ypres, and as a -visitor says--"It looks more picturesque in the mist." Ypres however is -an altar to which the nation must return. - - * * * * * - -After the great battle most of the survivors marched away. New men took -their places. Glorious captains received their D.S.O.'s, battalions -their first honours. A mere thirty thousand of the old army had stemmed -the onrush of a quarter of a million of the enemy. Ypres remained in -British hands--though badly battered, and the Germans were kept back -from the vital ground of Calais. - -At Chateau Wood near Hooge where a placard now says "THIS PLACE WAS -HOOGE" were the remains of many battalions--Grenadiers, Duke of -Wellingtons, Scots Fusiliers; along the Menin road lay Scots Guards, -Borders, Gordons; but all were withdrawn. The Scots marched then to -Dickebusch and Locre and Bailleul, and then to Sailly sur la Lys, and -were out of the battle line ten murky days at least. - -Now as you walk out from Ypres along the blighted Dickebusch road midst -the iron thorn bushes of rusty barbed wire and sheaves of old spiral -stakes you still see large notices that WASTE LENGTHENS THE WAR--what -stronger appeal could one make! Does it not still prolong it and ever -will! - -A south wind blows volumes of rain out of the clouds on Kemmel Hill, the -old mud is restored on the road, and long plashy pools of water guide -the steps. Dickebusch is getting itself dug out of the mud, and making -fair progress. Of its church amid broken monuments only two needles of -up-jutting wall remain--at altar and entrance. New La Clytte is -soldering itself to the foundations of old La Clytte. Kemmel grows -nearer to the view and all the detail of its hillside can be picked out -by the eye--the wheat field, the pasture, the farm-house. It is one's -eye-neighbour on the left as you march into Locre. Now the Locre -church, unscathed in 1914, unthreatened, is but a heap of red rubble -surmounted by eight beams pointing skyward. Men are digging among the -bricks, uncovering soiled images, figures of the Virgin, altar cloths, -banners, stools. Near by stands a rusty cast-iron church built of -salvage, a straight Protestant meeting house but for some brand-new -coloured effigies of saints set among the seats. One aspect of Locre is -of a diminutive forest of stinging nettles and low stumps of dead trees, -and beyond lie some hundreds of British dead, flanked by a disused -medical shed where the bodies used to be brought out and a burying padre -with clayey hands went through the painfully mechanical service of -throwing "dust to dust." The graves are nicely kept, and the young -Belgium of Locre grows up with this heritage of sacrifice. As you sit on -the ruins of the church looking down to the wet highway muddy -velocipedists come pelting past in a race round their native land. Their -bare thighs are caked with brown mud, and their cotton chemises are -stuck to their bare round-shouldered backs, their intent faces are -dirt-covered--on they dash, a complete and happy irrelevance beside the -old war. - -Here is the frontier 'twixt Belgium and France. A rope is drawn across -the road; there was none in the days of the war. The customs gendarmes -will examine you if you are coming into Belgium, though they will pay -little attention if you are going out. - -The landscape is one of black dead trees hanging dead arms. Old blown-up -trees lie, root and all, along the roadside. There are great numbers of -sockets of old gas-shells relating to the taking of Locre by the Germans -in April 1918, heaps also of rusty rifle grenades which seem to have -been collected and put by the side of the road. Remarkable ever are the -promiscuously piled mountains of domestic old iron which one passes. It -would be an interesting exercise for a young detective to decide what -each piece of wreckage had been before the war. Certain things you can -be sure about however--oil-drums, coal-scuttles, wash-bowls, chamber -conveniences, armchair and sofa springs, metal guts of mattresses, -perforated bowls for straining greens, coffee-pots, mangling and washing -machines, scales, canisters, salvers--a clean sweep for every farm-house -and every village. And in the new houses there is scarcely one saved -utensil carried forward. Among the new articles introduced one may -remark china casts of Charlie Chaplin in gala attire. - -The frontier land is hilly. One skirts the upland of which Mount Kemmel -on the left is the most prominent feature. It is three or four -kilometres from the rope of the frontier to the French line of douane -and its customs-gendarmes. One looks down to the first town in France, -Bailleul, and it looks like a picture which someone has drawn and then -crossed out with black lines and smudged. As one approaches, this is -found to be the residential suburb or park called L'asile, with -grandiose buildings, now an appalling wreck with not one redeeming new -patch upon it. Heaps of debris stand higher than houses, and houses -which have not fallen have as it were been pushed forward upon one -another. The frontier gendarmes examine your passport and you are free -in France. You see the first diminutive huts of the French returned -refugees, and then in the mud of the street, urchins playing bat and -ball with a slowly-expiring frog which they hold by one dangling leg, -and toss to the boy with the bat. A few steps further and it is -Bailleul. - -Bailleul too is a great wreck as remarkable as Ypres, and its progress -of recuperation is much slower. It does not cater for war pilgrims or -take the money of tourists, and so there are no prominent hotels and few -estaminets. Most of its houses are down, its ways are choked with ruin, -and in the evening nondescript squads of workmen shuffle through the -streets to their homes in barracks and cellar. - - * * * * * - -Still the old Army of 1914 marches on. When it entered Bailleul all was -calm. Its great red-brick houses stood fairly and uncracked. The people -had had a fright, but they held on. They held on through years of the -war, and though the guns kept pounding away at them they did not wholly -abandon it till 1918 when the Germans seized the town as part fruit of -their second great Spring attempt to end the war. Then it was "fort -abimée." The owners all fled, and what they left an enemy army -ransacked. - -Thousands of officers and men were snugly billeted in November 1914 at -Locre and Bailleul and Meteren. Sir John French came and chatted with -men in the billets--about the battle of Ypres. New drafts came out from -England. There had been a clearance of reservists and first volunteers. -Each stricken battalion received its half a thousand to make up. -Practically new units were organised for the winter defence of the new -lines, and when the time was come they marched three leagues nearer to -their enemy--to Sailly sur la Lys and Laventie and Neuf Berquin, -Estaires--such names of destiny! When the King came to Sailly sur la Lys -at the end of November he could not see his guardsmen because they were -already in the fighting line and it was thought it would be unsoldierly -to call them back for the King to see, to which the King agreed. - -The flowers are withered, the thistles which gave their fragrance to the -air at Ypres are white with down. Peasants everywhere are scything weeds -and burning them in smoking heaps. But the trenches beyond Sailly are -still shaggy-topped with teazle crowns and woolly nettle heads. One -wonders how many different units at what different times occupied those -1914 trenches. Here still, one picks up old blue water-bottles and faded -green straps and pouches of British uniforms. They are poor -trenches--the mere staves that lined them to keep up the mud are all -warped and good dug-outs are few. - -The Germans of course swept o'er all this in 1918. Witness the "busted" -concrete telegraph posts growing dozens of rusty iron wires from their -stumps, witness the lumpy solid cement-bags by the side of the road. But -between 1914 and 1918 what a history! A little way beyond the British -line is a cemetery called "V.C. corner." There are two hundred and -thirty crosses and on every cross is exactly the same legend--"G.R.U. -Unknown Australian soldier." There is no name in the whole of the -cemetery. Some time some band of Australians charged here and did not -come back and were not taken prisoner. Old rifles with broken rusty -bayonets have been placed against the white-washed cross-surmounted -entrance. Not many paces on one comes to the German line wrought in -impregnable concrete, a line of snug beds in which it seems one might -comfortably await the Last Day. But one concrete structure has been -mined and looks as if it had been thrown bodily into the air without -flying into bits. Now it stands poised upside down on a heap of dirt -beside a profound pit. The Germans who were there when that happened are -nearer now to the unknown Australian soldiers than we are. - -In 1914 there was none of this concrete. Both sides were equal in the -mud, and the same no-man's land lay between. Even the wire had not been -thrown out--or was of a most rudimentary kind. Friend and foe heard one -another talking from across the wet fields--even called to one another -and were without especial bitterness. On the right and towards Laventie -a nervous Indian division kept up a heavy rifle fire all night long, but -otherwise the war was mild. Frost-bite harmed more than iron. The first -night raids were planned--sporting expeditions in which the thrills were -sufficiently novel. Pleasantries were often exchanged with the enemy who -was found to be possessed of plenty of English slang, and occasionally -an English soldier who knew some German risked being thought a spy by -his comrades and replied. - -Someone however planned a sharp attack on Lille. It was really the -predecessor of the battle of Neuve Chapelle and should be called perhaps -the battle of Fromelles. But it was completely abortive and the details -were removed from public news--the first and last night attack of its -kind. The date was exactly one week before Christmas, and looking at -that narrow strip of no-man's land in which the attack spent itself one -realises afresh how ineffectual were all these little battles of the -war. Men died: that was all their effect. - -The attack was timed to start at six in the evening. Men were hoisted to -the parapets and lay flat awaiting a signal, the blowing of a whistle. -At the sound of the whistle they stood up and walked slowly and -cautiously forward not to disturb the Germans. The moment the enemy -discerned them and fired they were to rush forward as one man and enter -the German trenches. Some men walked hand in hand; some unfortunately -lost their heads and ran forward at once. The night was black as pitch -and full of the unknown. It was not long before the enemy began to fire, -and men dropped rapidly, leaving the inevitable gaps and disconnections -in the line. It is incredible to realise it: the affair lasted all night -long, and scarcely anyone knew where anyone else was. But back and forth -they ranged in that fatal width of eighty yards of no-man's land, and in -one battalion alone a hundred and eighty men were lost. As was to be -expected, the troops were highly complimented and medals were -plentifully awarded to the heroes who survived. Lille was safe as ever. -Little Fromelles, just behind the enemy lines, was safe as Lille. The -dead lay in front of the German trenches, and the foe carried some of -them to the graveyard at Fromelles and buried them. But seven days -later, on the Christmas Day armistice, many still lay green on the -green earth where they had fallen. - -A curious day in the war--that first twenty-fifth of December. It was -surely a moment of hope after great suffering and in the midst of the -great anxiety. Probably all the nations engaged felt horrified by what -they had done, and a sort of penitence ranged in men's minds, a belated -regret that a better way than war had not been found to solve Europe's -problems. By most of the private soldiers and young officers it was -fervently believed that all would be over soon. And away at home there -was such idealistic hope as that the soldiers on both sides might -unanimously refuse to fight and that thus war might die of old age and -prove that it had truly been an anachronism. Immense new armies were -drilling in England, France, Germany, Russia, but they would never be -needed. Germany would speedily be forced back to the Rhine and would -capitulate, indemnifying France and Belgium handsomely and owning -herself in the wrong. Our armies held the Germans on the West and the -enemy was short of shells. The Russian "steamroller" was at work on the -other side of Europe, and men were betting one another that Przemysl -would fall before the New Year. Germany also was short of food, and our -sea power would cause her to starve. In Germany on the other hand, a -sense of great military superiority prompted the thought that soon all -the enemies of the Fatherland would be crushed. - -Despite the details of atrocities on both sides there was not the extent -of international bitterness that existed later. There was much talk of -an armistice, and there would have been official sanction for a general -temporary peace if Germany had not been so deeply distrusted. As it was, -there was a cessation of hostilities in many parts of the line and -meetings of enemies which amounted to fraternisation. This first -Christmas was the only one on which there was innocent and bloodless -armistice. Next year men were killed; and in 1916 despite the hopes of -rank and file there were few handshakes, few interchanges of civility -and greeting. - -But the first Christmas Day was a holiday. A party of Germans came over -from Fromelles and a party of ours went over to the German trenches. -Here in this narrow no-man's land where but a week ago had been that -"clash by night," foes met as friends. The Germans agreed to bring over -those of the dead which had not been buried. This was a matter of great -solemnity. The grey German soldiers put the bodies on stretchers and -brought them to the midst of no-man's land. Graves were dug there and -then. Detachments of British and German troops formed up in line, and a -German and an English chaplain read prayers alternately in the two -languages. It must have been heart-rending for our fellows to look on -the faces of the dead they knew so well, some of whom had set out for -the attack in such high spirits. And they lay with their terrible -wounds, the silent and ghastly fruits of the war, and it seemed they had -nothing in common with Christmas and the festival of peace and goodwill. - -The arrangements for the armistice had been made in this way. On the -night of Christmas Eve the German trenches were lit up with lanterns and -there was much singing of carols and popular German music. Now and then -there would be shouting across at the British lines, Christmas wishes -and attempts to enter into conversation. Early on Christmas morning one -of our scouts went out accordingly and met a German patrol. The latter -gave him a glass of whisky and some cigars with a message that if we -didn't fire at them they wouldn't fire at us. There had been no firing -since nightfall and an armistice was agreed to. At about dawn a party of -Germans came over to our wire fence and a party of our men went out to -meet them. The meeting was most friendly, and there was a general -exchange of small souvenirs and much mirth. Out of their abundance our -men gave the Germans of their Christmas puddings which were received -with great appreciation. Cigarettes were smoked, and there was much -conversation in which Tommy made himself understood and the German -mustered all his English. They all said they were tired of the war but -were convinced Germany would soon win. One or two had lived in England, -one even had an English wife, another had had an English sweetheart in -Suffolk, and these were very eager to get back, so they said. The German -opinion about the war was that France was on her last legs; Russia had -had a tremendous defeat in Poland and would soon be ready to make peace. -England remained to be broken, but with France and Russia out of the way -it would not be difficult to come to terms. They thought the war might -come to an end in January, 1915, in the following month. They professed -to hate their officers but were evidently afraid of them. It was clear -that discipline was carried further in the German army than in ours and -that it was very much harsher. - -The German officers, without tokens of rank, seemed much less at ease -than their men and were inclined to observe a sort of official silence. -One pointed to the dead and said in French "Les braves!" indicating a -reverence for fallen foes. Another volunteered the information that the -officers who had died a week ago had been buried in the graveyard at -Fromelles. There were dignified exchanges of tokens of remembrance among -officers--not very convincing perhaps as evidence of brotherly love, but -there was no mistaking the good-humour and camaraderie of rank and file -which continued all the while. - -What a sad moment when officers saluted and the men marched back to -continue the bitterness and folly of Europe's suicide. And _feu de joie_ -at midnight and massed choruses of carol singing! Christmas 1914 how far -away wert thou from happiness and peace! - -And Fromelles church on the hill has been rased to the ground. The -English dead have been taken away--only French remain, and amidst the -great smash-up of tombstones are seven or eight wooden crosses for -Chasseurs Alpins and French dragoons. - -So 1914 passed and the new year opened with a long war penitence when in -two months a battalion in the line lost but four or five men. Both sides -were short of shells and were saving themselves for the Spring. We shall -march soon to Neuve Chapelle. Meanwhile men are practising in the use of -the jam-tin and the hair-brush bombs--for the British army went to war -without a bomb, despised bombs. It went also without helmets, without -metal hats. Men went to war in service hats. It will take some -maniac-(sic) patriot to jump from the gallery of the House of Commons -into the midst of dreaming politicians, yelling "Give them metal -helmets" ere something of the kind be furnished. There are now -proceeding rehearsals of a battle behind the lines. Neuve Chapelle is -being thoroughly rehearsed against a dummy foe. The power of shrapnel to -destroy barbed wire is being tried--the verdict being that the narrower -the front attacked the more chance of completely destroying the wire. As -the war was eventually decided on the broadest of fronts, so the new -phase of the war which started with Neuve Chapelle was begun on the -narrowest of fronts. Be it noted, a continuation of the grand strategic -movements of 1914 has already been rendered impracticable by the -organisation of trench defences. - -On March 10th was the first concentration on the enemy's line, the first -attempt to pierce it. Behold the once crowded breastworks on the road to -Aubers and Neuve Chapelle. The great shaggy earthwork is covered with -dense thistle now. There are mounds of filled sand-bags all hanging in -clots like shirt-tails of innumerable men. This was the jumping-off -point for the attack. It was bristling with tense excited soldiers that -wild March morning, but no one lives there now--only swarms of -whispering grasshoppers. The earth-wave goes on across the flat country; -it is uncontrollably wild, and the peasants who work on the fields -before and in front of it have left it alone as a work of despair to -clear. It looks like an old Roman line. - -It is pitiful and pathetic now to walk to Neuve Chapelle and -Aubers--where officers clutched their revolvers, and men with bayonets -fixed thought their last thoughts of home whilst they plunged perchance -to death. All the German defences are in concrete--the wonderful 1916 -concrete, massive, impregnable. At Aubers there are six hundred and -eighty block-houses of concrete, with walls three feet thick. There are -impudent watch-towers of it. - -The roadway, still littered with shrapnel and fragments of rifles and -bombs, crawls across disintegrated Nature to ramshackle Neuve Chapelle, -and then there is that beautiful wood beyond, so often sketched, not -dead, leafing from all its trunks. As one looks on its lacework of -loveliness set against the sky one thinks of a martyr whose faith has -been proved--rescued from fire in time to avert destruction. - -Neuve Chapelle however was no victory as also it was no defeat. =GOOD -NEWS TO-NIGHT= said the placards of the London papers, but what had -happened was merely a rehearsal with many accidents. The fighting lasted -three days. The enemy gave as much as he took. Men spent the night in -trenches waist-deep in water, and were shelled mercilessly. They got up -prematurely to attack; to face fires of execution--the serried array of -the enemy's machine gunnery. Did not a battalion of Guards lose three -officers and a hundred men whilst speeding over a mere hundred and fifty -yards? On the other hand certainly German positions were isolated and -hundreds of foemen walked demurely into captivity behind the British -lines. - -You will look in vain for the graves of thousands of heroes. The bodies -have been taken far away, but Neuve Chapelle has its cemetery of exhumés -covered with brown level-raked earth behind a fertile beanfield. Captain -Sir Edward Hulse, hero of a night raid at Fromelles, lies buried by the -wayside, and he died at Neuve Chapelle. As for German dead, there is a -strange absence of graves, but beyond Neuve Chapelle is a field of -outrageous thistles and broad-bladed rotting crosses, some down, some -standing, all with faded inscriptions, but the thistles are so thick and -high one might easily pass by without observing an old graveyard of our -dread enemy. It would be interesting to read a German account, oh, not -an official one, of this battle of Neuve Chapelle, an account by one of -the common soldiers who fraternised with his enemy on Christmas Day and -had to kill him ere Easter had arrived. - -A long black touring-car has drawn up at the side of the road at Neuve -Chapelle, and a handsome grey-haired English gentleman looks on the -ruins. Says a small boy to him, "Daddy, what did the Germans do here?" - -"I don't know, my boy," says he. "But there was a great battle here -early in the war, and we tried to win it. I don't think anybody won." - - * * * * * - -So the Army went back to its football leagues and boxing competitions -which afforded a happy subsidiary interest. True, some of the athletes -and bright particular sporting stars had fallen, but others constantly -arrived from inexhaustible old England. As regards the war a rigorous -optimism set in. Complete victory was postponed for two months. There -must be more and better rehearsals, that was all. A passion for -discipline and the shooting of cowards set in. Poor R---- was shot beside -Laventie. Sergeant-majors "came into their own." - -Now however a new peace has settled upon Laventie. Even the workmen seem -working quietly. Most of the old billets of 1914-15 lie in tumultuous -heaps of brick dust and beams, though here and there are houses with the -number of the billet marked and the number of men it would hold. Many a -tap-room where our fellows gave voice to beer and _vin blanc_ has passed -into nothingness--the heavy boots clattering under the tables, the red -faces above, the bottles and glasses, the gambling-boards, the -pale-faced non-committal French women unashamed by the filth of the -talk--where are they all? The old owners have gone, dead perhaps, or -they found better business elsewhere. Often those who served in those -taverns behind the line were not the real owners but a sort of -adventurer who came in when the real people fled in panic. Tommy was the -source of their profit, they plied him with beer and girls, and gave -shelter to gambling sharps and got France a bad name. Anyhow, the -people you see now are a sober quiet-faced folk with a real unending -gratitude and affection for the British soldier. They preserve nothing -but good memories of him, and no calculations enter into their love. - -The old tavern of the Blue Horse seems to be down, but the Grand Cheval -Blanc still stands and other taverns of the horse--Laventie was a -horse-breeding place in days gone by. To-day it has only a tiny -population--and is nothing. It perhaps will not be a notable place -again. - -The mind goes on to the rest-billets of Hinges and Busnes and to the -march to Festubert across a country less scarred by war than there, less -gassed perhaps, for gas killed more than shells. There are new plans of -battle, more auguries of complete victory. Brigadiers themselves come to -lesser commanders to explain in person the secrets of the Festubert -attack. It amounts to little more than an intensification of the -bombardment rehearsed at Neuve Chapelle, and the pouring of a greater -number of men through the neck of devastation thus made, a pitiful -suicide trap as it turned out, but a natural experiment. - -Hinges, though in 1915 far enough from shell fire to be a place of -rest-billets and the drilling of new drafts and the bringing of musketry -practice up to high regimental standards, is now a wreck, its church as -completely ruined as our Wenlock Abbey and looking not unlike it. -Hinges has a commanding position with a view far o'er the stricken _Nord -du France_. Behind its ridge of high land Bethune remained comparatively -immune, its centre alone being utterly destroyed. No doubt parts of -Bethune would have fallen into German hands in 1918 had Hinges not held. -The neighbouring village of Locon fell--a mile or so to the North-east. -Merville which is due North fell also, and shells from three sides -screamed against this little village and the Canadians defending it. - -Hinges now is quietly rebuilding itself and is a little-visited war -hamlet. A memory and shrine of the Festubert fight is the wayside -cemetery with its Gordons and Black Watch and Lancs men. Here lie two -unknown British soldiers of Lancashire regiments and on their temporary -wooden crosses have been nailed metal discs of the Lancastrians with -bright red roses and the words:--"They win or die who wear the rose of -Lancashire." Some devotee of his county has placed this disc on -thousands of the graves of the Lancastrians. - -On the evening of the 15th May 1915, 2nd and 6th Gordons, 1st -Grenadiers, 2nd Scots and Borders marched out to the junction of the -roads rue de Bois and rue de l'Epinette, then filed through trenches -held by Indian troops, and reached an allotted storming position west of -"Princes Road." An elaborate time-table had been arranged, and each -unit knew its angle relative to the "gap in the wire" which the -artillery were going to make. At midnight all the troops were in -position. At a quarter past three in the morning Scots Guards and -Borders started up to lead the assault. What a narrow-fronted -concentrated effort it was may be judged by the battalion formation, -which was in eight lines of two platoons each. - -One cannot be sure now what trenches each unit filled, but the trenches -are there and it is not difficult to imagine the crush of khaki in the -warm May night, the shrieking and thundering of the bombardment. Three -o'clock in the morning and the rum being doled out and the men poised -and ready for the race of death. - -Near the corner of rue de l'Epinette and just before the village of -Richebourg l'Avoué lie three Colonels and a Major side by side--they are -the commanders of the Grenadiers and of the 2nd Border regiment, Major -Kennet the second in command of the 1st Grenadiers, and Colonel -Alexander of a Yorkshire regiment--all four perished at Festubert. The -corner of rue de l'Epinette has now a cottage of wood and bricks with a -cast-iron roof, a bright garden of flowers and beans. Opposite stands a -new estaminet. There is a jolly field of gathered haricots hanging to -dry on ten-foot poles. Once more, iron thorn-bushes of barbed wire each -side of the way, and where the men dug themselves in by the side of the -road--water and reeds. The Indian section has become the Indian -cemetery, and the brave dusky boys of Asian hills have passed away. -Festubert is a little place where the pile of old white stone and cement -which was the village church is higher than the huts which have sprung -up around it. But where are those blossoming orchards through which our -boys charged in the dawn twilight, where are the dead who lay so long -unrecovered in that pitiful no-man's land beyond? Unrecovered then and -irrecoverable now. - -On the 27th May 1915, ten days after the battle, General Joffre -inspected the whole Seventh Division, which was drawn up in three great -columns, a brigade in each, and with the 20th Brigade and its pipers -leading, all marched past to the salute. Another day came the Divisional -Commander General Gough, and perched high up on the central pile of -straw and midden in a large farm-yard he thanked the men for -Festubert--they had done what was asked and more--"as always," he added. - -Yet the Seventh Division had been destroyed at the First battle of -Ypres, only its framework had remained; its large reinforcements had -been worked off in the night-raids and at Neuve Chapelle, and its second -reinforcements had been almost exhausted at this Festubert. The speeches -were made, not so much to the heroes as to new drafts. Kitchener's army -was however flooding into France, and despite enormous casualties we -were beginning in a way to have a national army. What was left of the -old army became the instructors of the new. The regular army gave way to -the volunteers. - -It was a time of heart-searching in England. Optimism and pessimism -began to be sharply defined. Russia had been routed. Lord Northcliffe -made his sensational effort to make an easy-going London face bitter -reality. Mr. Lloyd George at the Ministry of Munitions began to take a -larger broader view of the military aspect of the war than did most of -his colleagues. Preparations were made for the manufacture of shells for -the terrific onslaught of the Somme next year. Whilst many poor fools -still thought that 1915 would see us through the strife, plans on the -basis of a three or four years struggle were being definitely made. Then -we were beginning to manufacture poison gas and had at last invented a -handy bomb--the Mills grenade, our answer to the stick-bombs which -dangled from the belts of German soldiers. It was a time of far-reaching -military plans and dreams. All grown-up children who were not themselves -tin soldiers were playing soldiers. Flying men carried terror across the -skies, and sailors of submarines carried it under the sea. No prophet -knew the number of men who would have to be killed before the -politicians would be ready to come to Versailles to discuss the matter. -From England, France and Germany three or four million must actually -die--that fact was unknown. In the summer of 1915 the number who had -died was far from that figure. It is curious however to think of the -many who had laid themselves down in earth's earthy bed in the full -faith that their sacrifice would not be in vain--to think of the proud -Germans, the fine ones, not the base ones, who believed in their Kaiser -and that wonderful German Fatherland to which they owed their life -before they owed their death, and to think of what was to come. Germany -and her Kaiser not only defeated but humiliated and cast lower than all -nations in old Europe; to think of the loyal Russian soldiers who -perished in the first enthusiasm of the war with a bright starry faith -in Russia, her Church and her Tsar, of the Grand Duke Oleg for instance, -that young hero whose warm blood grew cold whilst the street-bred people -of Berlin knocked nails in great Hindenburg's wooden statue--to think of -these first Russians who lay dead with their weapons beside them in -1914-15, and then to think of the hideous revolution and those murders -in Ekaterinburg when all Russia fell; to think of the fine youth of -England and Scotland, of France, of Serbia, who died in the faith not -only of national victory but of a victory for humanity, the boys whose -fragment of iron destiny clove their brains or rived their hearts at the -outset of the fray, and then to think of that sordid clash of -selfishness at Versailles and of the untamed menagerie of Europe let -loose in 1920. The spiritualists quickly claimed to get special messages -from the dead. But did the dead only speak to the spiritualists? Did -they say nothing more than was said to them? Most of us alas, hear -nothing or only a "Dinna ye hear it?" a wailing of the pipes at an -infinite number of poor soldiers' funerals. - -Well, the war enters a new phase in the summer of 1915. It will be -fought in a larger more terrible way, the number of millions of deaths -will begin after a while to seem not so far off. Killing becomes the -religion of the hour. - -The first hundreds of thousands of the volunteers roll up. The old -Seventh Division which we have been following is broken up and -reconstructed. The Guards Division was formed. So Scots Guards and -Grenadiers marched away to join new comrades, to leave behind brave -Borders and Gordons and Devons and Duke of Wellingtons. The 92nd feted -the Scots, the Devons the Grenadiers; the Gordon pipers played all the -laments of the clans and "_Will ye no come back again!_" - -And they went to Wizernes to prepare for the battle of Loos--a conflict -which the gallant Highland lads were destined to enter first and the -bright polished Guards but second, yet both to shine and die. - -In June General Foch's Tenth Army launched its Artois attack against the -great ridge of "Notre Dame de Lorette" which commands the Lens country -from the South as the high ground of Loos does from the North. A hundred -thousand Frenchmen perished for Notre Dame and it is henceforth a place -of pilgrimage for France. The battle was the prelude to our battle of -Loos and whilst the great new British army in reserve drilled and -marched away to the North, it heard each night the drum-fire of the 75's -rolling from the South. Later in the war when the British took over all -the line 'twixt Lens and Arras the Canadians took Foch's victory a step -further and captured Vimy Ridge. What Foch did in the summer of '15 was -however to be eclipsed by what the combined armies should do in the -autumn. Reliance was placed chiefly on the new man-power. The earlier -battles of Neuve Chapelle and Festubert had been tests of the -relationship of gun-power and man-power. Opinion inclined to support the -theory that a superiority in numbers was the most telling factor in a -battle. This seemingly was disproved, and the next theory was that in -order to obtain victory there must be overwhelming superiority both in -guns and in men. The Somme battle proved that even these were not -enough. - -In the battle of Loos however all the interest was centred on men, men -personally. The new base was St. Omer, the picturesque ecclesiastical -town with its castellated church towers in relief against the sky--all -so thronged with khaki--henceforth till the war ends to be a great war -centre. France lies in a bower beyond, and there are squads of poplar -trees on hills, and green and happy meadows never scarred by shells or -wilted by gas. On the left on the road out to Wizernes is now a large -cemetery, and here lie French dead with the tricolour upon them, British -with an infinity of flowers and wreaths, Americans with grim and tall -white crosses--American dead who will not be exhumed perhaps. Behind the -American graves stand wedges of unpainted wood--a Chinese plot where lie -what was mortal of many unknown coolies. On the right lie Germans, on -the left _soldados_ of Portugal. This is called playfully the souvenir -cemetery--there are so many of the dead they can be thus arranged, as -children might arrange their toys. St. Omer was known as a great base -hospital to which alas, so many were called to look their last upon -their dying children, dying sons of England breathing out their last -words before their bodies were laid away. There are those who are fond -of saying that everything began at St. Omer. But for many also it was -the place where it all--_ended_. - -The cemetery past, (How it rains on it now!) you come to aerodromes all -tortured and torn, indications of Handley Page but no indications of -those who fly, the cages are all empty and there stands not a sentry. In -plain blunt English the passer-by is told that "_Trespassers will be -shot_" but in the heavy rain of a Saturday afternoon a muddy crowd of -French boys are playing a football match. Chinamen evidently worked -beside these aerodromes, for you see their scrawls on the sheds and -shelters. - -Wizernes, where the Guards Division was formed, lies in a hollow below a -long green ridge. Most of it is painted white--including _Au bon Diable_ -a tavern of some name. The people know a passing Englishman, not by the -cut of his clothes alone but by his walk and his complexion and style. -Standing at their doorways old men give military salutes to any -Englishman who happens to go by. All know bits of our tongue, of which -they are as proud as if they had wounds to show. A poor woman in a -little beer-house has eight daughters, five of whom are married and a -sixth has a child by a Canadian. Little Renée, flaxen-haired, -ruddy-cheeked, is getting on very well and the mother adores her, though -a father in the New World his progeny has forgotten. This sixth daughter -of substantial mother was in service at Havre and met the soldier -there; she is now in service at St. Omer and not at all "ruined." There -are thousands of baby tokens of the war in France. Some died no doubt, -through lack of care; lightly they came and lightly they go, but a -widespread sentimental feeling about departed Tommy shields those who -now, live from any feeling of disgrace. - -Of course the men at the base begot more infants than the men in the -line, the latter were too much used up for "love" or "lust," saw fewer -girls and had less time on their hands. But all had their opportunities. -As we know, a great number of marriages were effected, and not a few -overseas men are now living with French wives. - -That has little however to do with Wizernes, whence behold Lord Cavan's -men marching away one dull September morn. The music of the bands is -refracted from that long parallel ridge of hill which goes with the road -toward Arques--the drums, the fifes, the brilliant array; each company -compact, glittering--the new Division. Some of it is utterly new, such -as 4th Grenadiers and 1st Welsh straight from Little Sparta, others -trail already a great war history from other divisions of the old army. -But the numbers are good. Sergeants are yelling at men who will be dead -in a few weeks' time. Men are silently reviling those on whom destiny -itself will quickly take revenge. All looks very authentic and lasting. -Unchecked optimism moreover reigns supreme. These compact units in their -unhurried and ever regular quick march believe that they will win the -war. Lens will be taken by others. They will come into action at the -critical moment, somewhere near Douai. They will pierce the German belt -of defence, split the enemy army, "roll up their line," and Germany -realising that she is beaten will at once sue for peace. There may be -some delay in formalities--then home for Christmas! - -Behold in the Grand Place at Arques immaculate General Heywood -inspecting his Third Brigade with its new units. Arques has a tall -obelisk there now--_a ses cent cinquante heroiques et glorieux enfants, -mort pour la France et la liberté_. - -These inspections were as great an ordeal as the going into battle -itself. In the line at least there were no drill-sergeants and -regimental sergeant-majors. However, inspections cease and the long -march in the rain begins, and new leather beats cobbled highways for -many a long fifty minutes, and weary backs and feet find ten minutes in -the hour all too little for recuperation. A little-touched happy -agricultural country, with Calvaries here and there erected and blessed -in 1919 in token of thanks that the land was spared from invasion. By -Aire to Fontaine St. Hilaire, to the sight of the first coal pyramids -of the Lens country and to the hearing of the first mighty thunders of -the opening great battle. The Guards were told that they were intended -for a sort of anchor to the cavalry. The Division would press on, and -somewhere beyond Loos the cavalry would come up from behind, pass -through the ranks, and press on to Douai. The Division would perhaps -come into action at the Canal at Douai. So when the cavalry overtook the -Guards whilst yet on the road to Loos it was assumed that the whole -British army was in advance of its program, Douai taken, and the enemy -in disorderly retreat. But on the day when optimism reached its height a -Colonel in a motor coming back from the front gave the duller tidings -that the attack had been held up. However, the sight of the cavalry -regiments going past in all their splendour was a sort of lasting -encouragement in the simple soldier's mind. - -It is a gloomy sordid country with dirty mining villages placarded with -yellow appeals to the proletariat and "Vive la Russie!" "Vive la -revolution sociale!" and dirty homes and black-faced men in sooty coaly -shirts--miserable Sailly, miserable Vermelles. Then the road debouches -upon wide open country, the terrain and the landscape of the battle. It -is a chalky heath interlaced and inter-run with trenches and barbed -wire. The trenches were mostly dug by Scottish miners and were said to -be the admiration of the troops in 1915. But standards in trench digging -were low in the first year of the war, and one does not admire them now. -The landmarks of the horizon are peaked coal-heaps. The road which goes -to Lens is bare and hard. Loos and Hulluch are on the left, and also the -German line. Close in to the suburbs of Lens the line crosses the road. -Shells must have come thick and fast on these September days. It is not -a covetable country to march over under fire. One wonders what exactly -the first divisions accomplished here on the days before the Guards came -up. Special correspondents were given facilities at the time and one -remembers among other things Mr. Buchan's despatch with its native pride -in Highland regiments, and a sort of belief that they themselves had won -the day. One had the impression of a sort of trial charge of kilted lads -which showed what they would do later on. Indeed some of the Highlanders -must have actually got into Lens. Nothing could stop them but death. -Were the lines between Vermelles and Loos German? These were supposed to -have been captured during the first days of the attack. The Guards in -artillery formation swept across leftward to Loos, past the spent -legions--to the line, to Hill 70, the barrier to Lens city. - -It is memorable to be in Loos on the anniversary of the opening of the -battle, to walk up Hill 70 by the sharp-dug clumsy communication-trench, -to reach the lateral lines on the brow of the hill and look down toward -the shattered town. And Loos lies in disruption and dejection. It lost -every roof, now it has perhaps a score of new ones visible to the eye. -The machinery of the pit-head is all down, likewise the clangorous iron -tower which shells seemed unable to destroy. Rusty wreckage runs along -the base of the coal heap, the length of a long train. Heavy green shrub -almost covers the coal embankment. On Hill 70 itself the old rusty wire -remains, though so scanty as if much had corroded away. Shell-holes seem -to afford more cover than the pitiful scrapings in the chalk of the old -trenches. There is a burnt-out wood on the left; on the right is the -insurgent industrialism of unruined fosses; ahead are chalk-pits, -chalk-mounds, thistles, dry grass, poppies, all dazzling in a bright -September noon. Innumerable grasshoppers are whispering in the breeze, -and from all horizons one hears also the softened clatter of building. -You can even hear what is going on in Lens. - -There is little of the debris of the fight--a rotten butt-end of a -rifle, a few shreds of German bombs, an old-fashioned gas bag. One -recalls that the British first used gas at Loos. The air on Hill 70 on -that September day was pregnant with gas. Many of our fellows died of -it. The Germans on their side made much use of stick-bombs. The hill -was strewn with "buckshee" bombs. Did not a young soldier valiantly -digging drive a pick through one, and send himself and Lord Petre of the -Grenadiers to better country? The enemy manufactured vast quantities of -this bomb--it was a pet toy of his, curiously exemplifying his mind. Its -stated object was to terrify rather than to kill, and Englishmen -believing more in iron and "good shrapnel effects" always despised it. -But it was responsible for an enormous number of accidents. - -On the brow of the hill and beyond there are increasing signs of German -habitation. Near a vast white wallowing mine-crater there is a barricade -of sand-bags and wire, the point of difference 'twixt friend and foe. -After that one soon comes upon those wooden framed cellarways which -plunge from the side of the trench into the bowels of the earth. They go -down and down and are seldom explored by soldier or civilian. Some of -these have their gruesome secrets in their dark depths. Many Germans -were killed in them. Fear and industry conceived them. They were safe -enough at ordinary times, but death-traps in an attack; a man at the -bottom of a steep pit stood little chance against an enemy at the door -with a bomb. The British and French in this case understood the war -better than the Germans. A slighter cover or shelter whilst giving less -sense of security did give vigilance and alertness. Germany dug the -grave of her cause far from the ends she had in view and settled down to -a war of concrete and defence when she should have understood her lines -as the merest temporary abiding places on the way to victory. It -prolonged the settlement for years. - -How the cornflowers blossom on the German side! Did not they sow the -seeds here for their Kaiser. They sowed the seed--and now it blossoms on -the wilderness. Bright blue flowers shine in the midst of withered -nature, otherwise in September 1920 the crest of Hill 70 is so covered -with brittle yellow weeds that a match would set it aflame from end to -end. It is like a dried inland beach of the old war. The waves no longer -roll up with thunder and expire as once they did. But you can see in -imagination the young Guards officer in his Burberry, cane in hand -leading his flower of manhood--forward, forward, toward the shore of -Lens--see the expiring first line and the second line that follows -passing through and over it, the third that goes again---- They were the -waves which at last crumbled all defences. - -Not that Loos was a triumph of attack. Little justice will no doubt be -done on our side to the German defence of Lens, but it was a defence -which rivalled ours of Ypres. The enemy was driven back on both sides of -it during the later campaigns of the war (chiefly in 1917). Technically -and theoretically the Germans could be forced to yield it at any -moment. But in practice it could not be taken from them. We'd take it -were it of iron; they'd hold it were it of butter. Artillery laid the -town flat, but artillery could not destroy the cellars, and of every -cellar the German, with the reinforcement of iron and concrete, made a -machine-gun nest or post for riflemen. For the rest, we held nearly all -the Vermelles--Lens road, and the greater part of that from La Bassee to -Lens. From Hill 70 one sees geographically a wide landscape of the war. -It was a remarkable vantage-ground for beholding the doings of one's own -side. - -One aspect of the fighting on Hill 70 ought not to be forgotten, and -that was the work of the stretcher-bearers who for the sake of each -wounded comrade they brought in exposed themselves constantly to death. -The heavy bodies, the uneven and entangled way down an exposed hillside, -the shells howling and bursting, the sniper's bullet whipping through -the air--these made up the stretcher-bearers' Calvary-walk. They did -their duty and ceased to think of whether they themselves would live or -die. And Loos was nothing to the Somme--as those will tell you who came -through both. - -But the battle of Loos was not ended at Loos. All the worst of the -fighting was away to the left by Bois de Hugo and Chalk-pit wood where -Scots and Coldstream strove again and again to establish a continuous -line. The German system of trenches was entered, and Hulluch-ward, La -Bassee-ward, a strife more bloody than Loos itself continued. On the -night of the 29th September there is a relief on Hill 70--the 22nd -Londons come in. The survivors of the Guards march off to billets in -Sailly and about. But the fight continues for halves of trenches, for -corners, for turnings. German and British are living in the same -madhouse together and fighting for complete possession room by room. - -Now the new British bomb appears--the Mills grenade, the trench-clearer. -Germans are fought in the white alleys with bombs, bombs only and bombs -ever. October 1915 was the great month of bomb-mania. Its emblem should -be the man and the bomb ready to throw. The Guards were soon back in the -fray, and on the night when the bombs came up so great was the -fascination that "Jocks" and "Bill Browns" were bombing one -another--each thinking the other was the enemy. - -It is all indescribably wild now--Gun trench, Grab Alley, Big Willie, -Hohenzollern and the rest, cement-coloured, or yellow with a withered -prairie of weeds. Notices at various points indicate _chasse reservée_: -the shooting rights are now reserved. Frenchmen with shot-guns and dogs -prowl along the parapets, peppering the noisy partridges which they -rouse up in scores. Decaying rifles lie in the trenches, rusty -bayonets, and muddy shreds of belts and pouches. On the German side the -inevitable litter of unexploded but sodden bombs; undo the metal -protectors and you find the very string which caused them to explode has -rotted in its case. No tourists turn up on these wild wastes. It is too -terrible for them--and you cannot motor over innumerable pits. - -On Sunday October 3rd you can picture the survivors of Loos at "Divine -Service" at Sailly la Bourse. On the evening of the Sunday they marched -to Gun trench. The trench was so called because the enemy had a gun on -it. Fifty yards of the centre the Germans held, and the British were in -the trench both on the left and on the right of the enemy, and strove to -bomb him out of it entirely. - -The gun was worked heavily, and shell after shell landed on parapet or -parados scattering solid slag, ravaging chalk, burying men. The unburied -were engaged all night digging out lost comrades and trench-repairing. -It seems mere matter-of-fact when set down in dull print--but oh, the -physical agonies of apprehension, the shuddering, the shattering of -nerves physically under such conditions. It is easily understood how men -were glad to be hit to get away and find peace. Death must at times have -been eagerly desired and sought. It was called hell: it was hell. The -new Kitchener divisions were thus not long in getting to the reality of -war. - -In the diaries of the time you find much reference to gas fatigue. -British gas was used whenever the wind seemed favourable. Gas did not -seem however to have power to stifle many enemy defenders. Gas fatigue -was the carrying of the cylinders to the line. Emplacements were dug for -cylinders below the parapet of the trench and "riveted" with sand-bags. -Twenty or thirty cylinders would be thus ranged together at intervals of -twenty-five yards. The cylinders contained the gas in liquid form, and -ejection was worked on the syphon principle. This use of gas was seldom -justified by results, and added an infernal torture and ugliness. It was -a true diabolism. Almost always it afflicted the side which operated it -as much as it did the enemy. Protection against gas was clumsy and -inadequate. We started with the "stokers' pad" which was proved useless. -Then we had a cotton pad soaked in hypo and tied on by veiling which was -supposed to protect the eyes. And then followed cloth helmets soaked in -hypo, helmets with mica eyes, very smelly, clammy, and unreliable. -Mustard gas at a later date brought the respirator. But the protection -at Loos and Hulluch was the old hypo bag of which not a few still lie -about. - -The war was becoming quite complicated and new. A Lewis gun was first -used in the battle for Hohenzollern Redoubt, and in time each battalion, -nay, each company, will have its Lewis gunners. Steel helmets were also -issued at Hohenzollern and were considered curiosities. One battalion -received five helmets! They were supposed to be for the special use of -the bombers. But then everyone became a bomber in that battle. - -It is with awe that one looks on the silent empty Hohenzollern system -now, where trenches for many days were choked with dead. Some commanders -in those days thought double rum-rations put the necessary devil into -men to carry them through the ordeal of a fray, and it is common talk in -the Army that some of the units that went into the storming of -Hohenzollern Redoubt knew very little of what they were doing. One thing -is certain: alcohol has power to banish fear from men's minds, if fear -there happen to be. It dulls the brain to danger. But then alas, it -often dulls it to much else. Cool heads were needed to meet the German. -And the night-attack at Hohenzollern failed. The dead lay as if emptied -out of sacks into the pits, into the trenches, some head downward, some -with legs alone visible. Whilst it rained in London, and the evening -crowds glided along Shaftesbury Avenue and Piccadilly talking of -anything and everything, happily, snugly,--away out there in the -darkness lay such a scene. It was most near, but an impenetrable black -curtain hid it from the eyes. - -War in 1915 failed. We failed; the Germans failed. The German failure -was the greater because it was not their rôle to stand and be attacked. -Germans and Allies were not unequally matched. The result was a -deadlock. Both sides came to the conclusion that no one in his wildest -dreams of preparation for war had foreseen the number of shells and guns -necessary to obtain victory. Fighting therefore slackened off in the -trenches, and the real centre of war-activity was transferred to what we -called "the home front," to the factories and war-industries of England, -France, and Germany and Austria. All the wet and gloomy winter saw the -ammunition heaping up for the myriad-fold destruction of men in 1916. -Germany prepared a mountain of death to hurl at Verdun; Britain a -mountain of death to hurl from the Somme. No serious discussion of the -campaigns of 1915 was allowed to the peoples of the countries. Gallipoli -however was evacuated and Serbia over-run, and Bulgaria came into the -war on the other side. With the military power of the Tsar lying low -Germany had fair hopes of victory. Neither Britain nor France had much -to cheer them, but they knew that their resources were mighty, and they -knew that their enemy on the Western front did not seem to want to fight -and was continually on the defensive. - -It did not stir the mind of the soldier much. The autumn leaves fell for -the Germans, and Christmas came for the British Tommy, and unfulfilled -promises in plenty. A winter of rain and mist above, and water and mud -below, and a sense of "a long long way to Tipperary and to everywhere -else" were the lot of the British soldier. The war lost its tension -after the Hulluch fighting was over. Unofficial fraternisation set in on -many fronts. This was a mutual understanding by the rank and file of -both sides. The Germans were quickest in arranging it--indeed their -alacrity in this direction suggested the belief that it was organised -from above and was intended as a way of winning the war, by undermining -discipline and worming out secrets and spying. This however was not so. -For if it undermined one side it undermined the other as much also, and -if one side learned secrets so could the other. Moreover officers on -both sides disliked it, and they for their part could not fraternise -with enemy officers. Their quarrel was more serious. Officers understood -more about the war and had more of the collective guilt of the war upon -their minds than had the rank and file. Not that a winter lull was not -to their liking. They were glad enough of the effects of these _petites -armistices_. On the French fronts more was arranged than on that held by -the British. Parties came over into one another's trenches. In Russia -unfortunately fraternisation resulted in a constant loss of Muscovite -rifles and material in exchange for _Schnapps_. Probably the British -fraternised least of all, and though one has heard of Tommy's concert -party in which "Brother 'Ans was arst ter sing the 'im of 'ate" it did -not amount to more than tacit agreements not to shoot. - -The crack regiments on both sides were however indisposed for any kind -of truce. They set the tone in discipline and were far from that Charlie -Chaplin attitude towards the war which characterised some others. What -was the astonishment of some of the Guardsmen when "taking over" at -Laventie, after Loos and Hohenzollern, to see the easy-going way of -warfare which had developed. "I saw a Jerry on top of the enemy parapet -working away in broad daylight as cool as could be," said a sergeant. -"Of course I at once got a bead on him." - -"What're you going to do? You're surely not going to fire on him?" asked -one of the men of the outgoing regiment. "You'll spoil the game." - -"How's that?" - -"Why, they'll begin shooting at you." - -"What d'you think of that?" said the sergeant. "I fired just to let them -know the Guards had come." - -Nevertheless even the Guards were mollified. Warfare dwindled to -nothing. "Jerry" was very confiding. Christmas was coming. The war -after all was not so serious and perhaps would not be renewed in the -Spring. Inactivity always seems to soften opposing rank and file toward -one another. It tends to bring them back to the natural human -relationship. By Christmas there was a widespread popular sense for a -thoroughgoing reconciliation in no-man's land. What had happened at -Christmas in 1914 was the needful precedent. It was a sort of playful -legend in the army. On Christmas Day there would be a going over and a -shaking of hands and exchange of souvenirs and drinks. Both sides looked -forward to it. - -But the authorities evidently thought it dangerous. Orders to the effect -that there should be no fraternisation were sent out, and a -staff-officer here and there spent Christmas Eve in the trenches to see -that the orders were carried out. He could not however effect very much. -At ten o'clock that night the men in all the trenches both German and -English were talking without restraint, and the dark muddy lines of -Laventie had a voice as of some great club at night when all the members -are discussing at once. Germans were shouting invitations across, -British were shouting invitations; and promises were made for next day. -At dawn therefore parties went over, and whole battalions might have -followed them had not the artillery at once set up a barrage. It was -found also that sentries on both sides had been ordered to fire. Some -obeyed, some did not. One Guards sentry was proud of having fired -fifteen rounds. But he did not hit anyone. Meanwhile the troops about -Neuve Chapelle and Aubers got across in large bodies. Even on the -Guards' front men risked their lives to shake hands. Did not one thus -lose his life that morning! - -There is a little old cemetery by the side of the road a mile or so from -Laventie, and there lie prominently side by side two corporals of the -Sixth Black Watch (Newell and Willis) and behind their graves is that of -a certain Sergeant Oliver who perished on Christmas Day. A tall rose -tree with crimson roses blooming even in the autumn is growing from the -earth where he lies. Beside him lies one who was both captain and -knight, with only a dock rising from his feet. On all graves are weeds -except on that of the man who gave his life to shake hands on Christmas -Day. - - * * * * * - -The winter life of 1915-16 was one of mud and frostbite in the line, and -taverns and songs when out. The whole corner of Northern France about -Armentières begot a sort of British character. Not that it was like any -district at home. Or that the way of life resembled anything anywhere -else at any time. Tommy in the _estaminet_, Tommy with his sing-song in -billets, Tommy on the march slogging through the mud--began as it were -to belong to France and to the war. He ceased to look like an imported -article. He was disposed to be at home, and like Mark Tapley, that most -characteristic of English types of men, to be happy even under the most -melancholy circumstances. The soldier, whatever his inward sorrows, -often so deep, so poignant, always kept a cheery face and had a -devil-may-care smile for whatever came along. Of course he had his -grousing fits. But they passed. He was most himself when singing. To -France he sang all the old songs he ever knew and more besides which he -invented. How vulgar, in London how banal were the songs--"vulgar songs -which make you cough and blow your nose" as Kipling put it, the -seemingly maudlin _Hullo my dearie I want you to-night_ sort of song. -But in France how real, how passionate! A group of men stand in the -partial shelter of a shattered building crooning together whilst it -rains, whilst it pours on the mud outside! In England the words which -they sing are sentimental drivel, they are the barrel-organ and its -handle turning, but in France they are the voice of a suppressed -yearning and suffering-- - - I ... shall meet you ... to-night, dear-- - In my beautee ... ful dream ... land. - And your eyes will be bright, dear, - With ... the love light ... that shines for me. - - -The only place where the soldier could meet her, till there came one of -those madly-coveted greedily-snatched moments of leave, when a man -dashed, with the mud of the trenches still on him, straight to -"Blighty." - -There was a curious note of self-pity in many of the sentimental songs, -and men gloated over the love of home. The love of mother became warmer -in imagination (_Lordy, lordy lordy, how I love her!_); the tenderness -of wife and sweetheart became desired in a way which could only be -expressed in songs--and in letters, those most precious of all tokens of -the war, the letters which men sent from the front to those who loved -them. The little English soldier sang his very heart out asking his -Lizzie to "keep the kettle boiling," asking anyone and everyone to - - Keep the home fires burning - Till the boys come home! - -Even so, he would not allow himself to get down-hearted or to remain for -long in a sentimental mood. The humorous inventive vein came to his -assistance. He did not possess ready-made chansonettes of the French -type. The music-hall had not provided them, but he straightway began to -invent them to satisfy the need. So sprang into being _Mademoiselle from -Armenteers_ which was reputed to have fifty thousand verses--anyone -could invent a verse at any moment. So was born _Roll on, my Three_, -that soldiers' litany and chorus, _The one-eyed Riley_, and many another -burlesque. Then every well-known hymn and popular song had its war -parody expressing the soldier's mind in lighter vein---- Some of the -parodies of popular songs improved on the originals. Thus-- - - I wore a tunic, an old khaki tunic, - But you wore civilian clothes. - Whilst we were in the trenches - You were mashing all the wenches, - What a blessing no one knows! - We fought at Loos whilst you scoffed the booze. - -on the basis of-- - - I wore a tulip, a bright yellow tulip, - But you wore a red red rose. - -was extremely diverting, as was - - I've lost my oil-bottle and pull-through, - I've lost my four by two. - -on the basis of "Love's beautiful garden." - -Endless were these songs and parodies now fast receding into limbo. -Where so much was ugly and of the burlesque there was also much that was -true and simple and direct, from the heart. Perhaps the most popular -song in some regiments was, after all, "Mary." There was no parody of -"Mary," and one was always hearing or singing-- - - The sweetest blossom on the tree - Cannot compare with Ma ... ry! - - -The men lifted the roofs of the taverns with their songs. The war which -increased life's suffering tenfold, increased life's music tenfold also. - -So the winter was sung through, a winter of rain and snow, with low -skies, with mists, mist on land and sea and in the eyes and in the mind, -the melancholy interim of 1915-16, where no one understood anything -except that there was suffering. Meanwhile however the munition-makers -on the home fronts went on manufacturing the stuff of death in -ever-increasing appalling vast quantities. - -The Germans were the first to resume the struggle. 1916 presented itself -as a year of destiny for Mittel-Europa and world-power. Russia lay low. -Serbia was ravaged even to the shores of Greece. A galvanised Turkey had -been raised from death and had driven France and Britain from the gates -of the Hellespont. There remained but one vital enemy--France. Britain -would soon compose the war if France were worsted. So now all the might -of Prussia was forged into a weapon of assault, and the weapon was -hurled in the centre. - -There commenced the terrible manslaughter of Verdun. Irresistible -Germany met immovable France, and men by the myriad were sent post-haste -to heaven. Between the petty forts of a French city Europe heaped a -great pyramid of skulls to the sky. As in Verestchagin's picture, one -saw an emblem of war without compromise and without cowardice. - -The French stubbornness before Verdun shone out like a miracle. It was -an unexpected revelation of French tenacity and corporate strength. A -Bismarckian contempt for the Frenchman had almost been the accepted -measure of the French in Europe. They were considered degenerate, -corrupt, lacking in spirit, loud to boast but quick to run away. The -rapidity with which Germany overran France in 1914 had confirmed this -opinion, despite the battle of the Marne. But Verdun revealed to Germany -a new and terrible France. The whole of the rest of the war, as it were, -paused to look on in wonder. France has raised now her memorials at -Verdun, but it needs no monument. Verdun is written in iron upon -Europe's heart. Dead called to the living there to join them. Verdun was -never taken, but it always lured the enemy on--the lodestone of the -charnel house. - -Rightly understood, the battle of the Somme was not a greater battle -than that of Verdun. It was similar; it was our Verdun battle. It also -was a "blood-bath" for both sides. It also was a spending of the -ammunition which the winter, spring, and summer preparations had brought -forth. Tens of thousands of those who sang so light-heartedly through -the winter found eternal peace, stretched like lost star-fishes in the -Somme mud. From Albert with the Virgin leaning from the church-tower, -to within sight of the miserable, hitherto uncoveted, town of Bapaume -what a progress! One of the heaviest epics in history, the slowest, most -heavy footed of charges! As if each man bore a hundredweight of lead on -his feet to keep him back when he would have rushed to gain the day! -Hundreds met their death, not through shot or shell, but by actual -drowning in mud. Hundreds were sent back to the rear partially -distraught before they got the signal to leap forth to personal attack. -The massing of the Somme artillery out-Heroded Herod--the greatest -concentration of noise and destruction that the world had known. The -greatest strain of the Somme battle was mental, and its greatest effect -was no doubt moral. The extent of territory gained was no indication of -the true result of the battle. The actual numbers of the dead might have -been a greater indication had they not generally been hidden at the -time. For the peace-quorum of death was being approached--there was a -large advance towards hate's _desirabilia_, the three and a half -millions who had to be slain. Men might have taken some comfort from -that dreadful thought had they known. But it was theirs to fight and -labour on in blindness. - -The Somme country was an extension of the British line. As our army -doubled, trebled, quadrupled, so it multiplied the extent of France -which it defended. From the flats of Flanders and Northern France we -gradually progressed to a more diversified country of long ridges and -downs, pleasanter in peace but equally terrible in war. As you approach -it now by train the cemeteries roll into view on every hand. The dead -are as it were drawn up in solid columns to greet you as you pass, as it -were one live man were monarch o'er all the dead. The Army that went to -guard the line is still there, still on duty--in Plot A, Plot B, Plot C, -Plot Z, of multitudinous war-cemeteries marked now by map-references. -The dead challenge the living in choruses of silence from broad fields -of burial. The hills remain like great mounds in the mist, the same bare -ridges of Cæsar's wars two thousand years ago, the same o'er which -perchance mankind will climb to death as many centuries hence, -antediluvian hummocks of old earth, somnolent, green, indifferent. Earth -suggests itself constantly as something mightier than man. It is not the -prostrate earth of Ypres Salient, but one which war has much less power -to sear. Man's habitations and cities topple down, forests are fired -away, but the elemental lines and contours of the hills remain unbroken -and as it were indifferent both to time and history. These rivers too, -by which men name their battles, flow on, flow away without a conscious -memory even of a yesterday. The innocence of the Somme, the virginity -of the Ancre, these have overcome all hate and blood, and lightly -forgotten them. - -The Judas trees have leafed afresh upon the banks of Ancre, and every -individual leaf is chattering and shivering--because, they say, two -thousand years ago the betrayer hanged himself upon an aspen bough. The -aspens give voice to the wind, and beside them the little willows are -all silent. Tangled wild flowers cling to the river banks, and limpid -water passes in bright armfuls over green sedgy tresses. On either hand -the giant reeds lift their pompous heads. Shell-pits are pits of -greenery. Deep brown of sagging rusty wire seems to be the complementary -colour of an intense and shadowy green. In the road where the sentry -stood guarding the crossing of the rail all is empty now. No -dust-covered mud-splashed lorries come blundering and tearing along the -high-road any more. There is a silence which is unearthly, as if the -composed deep sleep of the dead had conquered the ways of the living. -The little white towns and villages lie splashed in wreckage--without -the power to lift themselves again. Your Ville sur Corbie, your Meault -with its dirt-choked green strewn with pontoon boats, your Fricourt and -Carnoy--all prostrate, inert--they lie on the ground as if sewn to it. -On the left comes into view the triple blackness of the silhouette of -Notre Dame at Albert. Trees with the horror of the martyrs on their -receding withered hands seem fixed for years in the momentary awfulness -of death, menacing, aghast, uprearing. Narrow crooked trenches in -disorderly array seem to be hurrying forward, carrying their old wire -with them--as if they too had to follow the men they once held. But they -pause on the shores of dreadful pools and ponds, dead-horse and dead-men -stagnancies that ponder and are still and reflect indifferently the grey -sky above and the grey, blasted, shattered timber-bits on either hand. - -Oh Albert, what a place of death thou art now, with thy returned -children playing hide and seek around the heaps of thy homes. How is it -possible to _return_ to this place. It is not a return: no one can ever -return to the Albert of 1914. These that we see are revenants come to -look at spectral homes. For Albert is dead. There you can realise that a -human home is a living being like the woman who made it. It can prosper -or decay. It can go shabby and suffer. It can be wounded or maimed--it -can be killed. We mercifully hide our dead in Earth's great bosom--but -we leave our dead homes long when they lie, in all their horror and -terror. There stands a shrunken little house where the tiles have been -swept away, the plaster also, and the bare laths of the ceiling are all -exposed, but they look like a cap bashed down on the head of a dead man. -Yonder lies a recumbent habitation with a welter of grey laths and -beams on its burst-out side, like the sun-dried ribs of a dead -dromedary. Beyond it stands a wall that is left, and then an outraged -home with madness fixed in its visage in the moment of death-agony. Here -is a house with gutted entrails half congealed and terrible to behold. -There is a house that died simply of shock. But its neighbour -_vis-à-vis_ was hit by some striding giant with iron fist. Rows of -houses are seen cowering, as if they had had their hands up trying to -ward off the dreadful fate which stalked above them. Houses lie killed -as it were in the action of flight, veritably in the act of treading on -one another's heels in a frenzy to get away. There are houses which are -abased, houses which have fallen foremost on their faces, houses which -have fallen backwards, bottom over top into confusion and debris behind, -houses with their sides torn off as men's sides were torn off in the -war, exposing for one instant beating hearts. There are houses where -simply the life-breath has gone out--dead, blind, empty and desolate. - -One can hardly think of the existence once of rooms, the -marriage-bedrooms of sweet human honeymoons, the room where the baby -slept a baby's untroubled sleep, the children's room where one thinks of -a child's cry in the night or a child's lisped prayer before its mother -or the crucifix, the room where the home met, the table round which went -food and talk and laughter in a common innocence and ignorance of -destiny--all gone now in shapeless ruin. - -All the houses were the children of Notre Dame--the leaning Virgin who -hung out from the stricken tower of the mighty masonry of the -Cathedral-church, and yearned o'er the city. The miracle of her suspense -in air over Albert was a never-ceasing wonder, and the soldiers said the -city would never be taken as long as she remained un-shot down from the -eminence of the great church. - -Alas, Albert had its day of fate and of complete sacrifice ere the war -should end--when all should go, yea, Virgin and all, and only Golgotha -remain, Golgotha and the Roman soldiers who smote the Master with their -spears as He hung from the Cross. - -Twilight settles down upon the dead, the twilight of time and misery. -The dreadful reality of destruction becomes more intense and real. After -all, sunlight and the noonday do not always show us truth. They are in -themselves so full of life and happiness that they divert attention from -ruins and death unto themselves. Only in the grey light of afternoon and -evening, and looking with the empty eye-socket of night-darkness can one -easily apprehend what is spread out here--the last landscape of tens of -thousands who lie dead. Hamlet must go to the battlements at the time -when the ghost walks. The light of day hides the unseen world, or -cannot quite hide it. But there is one moment when the ghost of Albert -grows into vision majestically before the eyes. You go out through the -primeval jungle of dead weeds, the tripartite crowned heads of brown -teasles looking like low-lying spectral regalia of the death-kingdom, -past dug-outs and deeps and quagmire, past the prostrate ribaldry and -obscenity of war's doings with the earth--to the dark-flowing water -which nurses its forgotten secrets, flowing on, flowing on. You wait, -and whilst mist chills the marrow the ghostly moment of Albert comes -once more. Night has more than heralded itself; it is here in a -vast-fronted army and comes onward. Demon-eyes look over the ridges, -flash angrily, greedily; the roar of battle thunder bursts up; the -gas-shells cat-calling across the sky fall in showers on the mud; -field-guns are advanced to point-blank range--there comes the tide of -the war-worn German soldiery of March 1918, war-worn and yet exultant; -the English are driven out, the leaning Virgin falls, and the city is -given over to the enemy. Albert is dead; even its soul has died. English -soldiers will come back in August, recapture it, but not the city they -defended so long, not the city of the little Notre Dame leaning -passionately o'er its life and its defence. - - * * * * * - -From Albert to Bapaume, from Fricourt by Carnoy and Maricourt to -Longueval and Ginchy and Le Transloy, a pleasant day's walk now. There -is the incomparable Somme silence, a silence achieved by the tremendous -thunderous contrast in history, a silence from the stilled hearts of the -dead, a deafness and a muteness. Then when the mist disperses, and the -sun lifts his awful radiance o'er the scene, there are audible the lowly -orchestras of flies and bees. The rags of horses' skeletons lie on the -roadway, and beside a ruined direction-post a clean-picked horse's skull -has been placed on the stump of a tree. Lifting one's eyes to the view -there rolls forth to the horizon vast moors empurpled here and there and -with gashes of white on wan green wastes. An organised tour by car -whirls past upon the road raising phantom hosts of white dust. It will -do the whole Somme campaign in an hour and bring up safely at some -French hotel where hot lunch and foaming beer persuade the living that -life is still worth while. There was once a picture in _Simplicissimus_ -of a Cook's guide showing a human skull to some tourists-- - -"This, sir," said he, "was a young man." - -It was meant for irony. But surely it is good for everyone who talks of -war to go and get that thought--_this was a young man_. It does not -matter that tourists whirl past without pause in a car. Let each and -everyone come and dip a corner of a handkerchief in the blood of the -war--for remembrance. Come to the sacrament of the young man's blood -which was shed instead of yours. - -The road you traverse to the Somme altar is the road which hundreds of -thousands of young men trod, marching to moments of destiny, moments of -victory; the Manchesters to Montauban, South Africans to Delville, Royal -Scots to Guillemont, the Guards to Les Boeufs, the Durham Light Infantry -to the Butte of Warlencourt, the 47th Londons to Eaucourt l'Abbaye--and -many others; they marched from the quiet places of the homeland and the -empire, from Loos, from Laventie, from Flanders; defenders of Ypres and -defenders of Arras, marching with their drums, marching with their -bayonets, to Britain's quarrel and her mightiest enemy. Behind them were -ranged the guns, and in front of them was Prussia. Now the desolation of -Nature alone suggests what a desolation there was of men. The terrible -woods are impressionist pictures of the ruined vitals of great -regiments, and you can hold a forest in your mind as you would a skull -in your hands and say--_This was a forest._ _This was an army._ - -The generality of men and women however will not do that. The new-born -generations mask their grief, and you will see if you walk into Bernafay -Wood that a young Bernafay Wood is rising midst the dead masts of the -old--self-sown. It will grow higher every year till the old is hidden. -The masts will fall, will rot, will recede from this bright sunlight, -and relapse into the shade which the new trees will give them, and then -soon all will be forgotten. Near Bernafay too the crosses of the dead -lie spread out like rows of pins, memorial crosses where there is no -body, crosses for the unknown, more surely for the unknown British -soldier than for the known. So also it will be with them. The babies are -rising, the younger men are growing, growing to hide all and everything. -The nakedness of reality which we see to-day will be hidden in the shade -by and by. These brand-new cemeteries, looking often so fresh and rich -in their masses of brown-stained wood, will pass. They will first be -re-set-up in stone. 1921 will see them rolling out in new stone crosses, -at first startlingly pallid and virginal, but as the months go on, -getting gradually greyened and darkened, rain-washed, wind-blown, then -falling a little from the straight. Flowers will bloom as new summers -shine o'er the dead. Visitors will come. There will be a greater time of -visiting the cemeteries and the battlefields than there yet has been. -Gardeners will be conscientious, and then some less conscientious as the -years roll by and visitors become less. Most of the cemeteries in the -more obscure places will be half-forgotten and gone desolate. There must -come a time when no more visit the burial-places of the great war than -visit now the cemeteries of the Crimea. In 1914 the great cemetery -above Sevastopol, kept by a German gardener, had become from a national -point of view utterly unvisited and forgotten. A roll used to be kept -there of the visitors who came in their hundreds after the Crimean war -was over, dwindling to a score a year and then to less than ten, and -then to twos and threes and ones. The living who survived the Crimea do -not need to go to Russia now, for they have joined the dead long since. -So it will be with us; we shall join the authentic dead, and the young -ones will have forgotten whilst chattering of some other war. - -Meanwhile look reverently at the graves of the men of the 32nd A.I.F., -with little rising suns adorning the centre-posts of their crosses! See -where lies Capt. Claude with his high memorial, or Private Harry who -carried out an equal sacrifice with him. - -Rusty old cans on ten-foot poles mark the limits of the burial-ground, -and a notice says "Cemetery closed" as one might read outside a theatre -at night--"Pit full" "Gallery full" "Stalls full." On the hillside -above, sounds the laughter of men and the clatter of spades where a new -acre of God is being dug, the foundations of a new theatre being laid. -Here French Negroes, Flemings, and French peasants are at work under the -guidance of British soldiers. Occasionally a car rushes up through the -dust and a couple of British officers come forward to see how things -are going on. - -Passing on to Longueval you see the masts of Longueval Wood, but before -you come to it there stands now at the cross-roads a "café-restaurant," -an unpainted wooden hut. Here with the sun streaming full on their faces -sit two Falstaffian wights with bottles labelled Malaga between them and -glasses full. On their dewy red chins and necks there are three or four -folds of flesh; red veins run down their necks like gutters at the side -of a house. They hold hands and sing and make everyone in the tavern -laugh--then swallow--swallow--swallow, the wine rolls down their -exuberant gullets. - -Suddenly there is a note of warning in the restaurant, whisperings about -_l'officier_, to make it appear as if the men were drinking beer, the -woman comes and takes the wine-bottles and pours their contents into -metal tankards, sweeps the table clean of wine driblets, and reprimands -the topers. - -They pull themselves together and take on a sobered gait. One of them -opens a sand-bag in his possession and brings out two enormous doorsteps -of bread and butter. Silence reigns. There is a suspense. Someone -evidently is expected. Will it be a dapper, constrained, politely -inquisitive British officer? Hardly! Ah, here he is! Enter fiery British -sergeant-major with bristling moustache and bright crown on his sleeve, -stout, smart, and red. - -"Na then," says he, darting upon the Falstaffs, "play the game, play the -bloomin' game. Come on, travai in the cemetery. Officeer come, no bon -pour moy, bon pour vous, no bon pour moy. Com' on now or I'll jolly well -have to shift yer. The Belgiques and the Algerians know all about yer. -It's all over the place." - -"Ca ne fait rien." - -"Ca-ne-fait-rien pour vous but not pour moy. Officeer bocu faché avec -moy. You no catch it, I catch it, compris?" - -One of the grave-diggers offers his red wrist to be felt. - -"Yers I know," says the sergeant-major indignantly. "Moy zig-zag las' -night. But n-no zig-zag to-day." - -They offer him their glasses--apparently of beer. He sips one and then -drains it, and then drains the other one too. - -"Now com' on, com' on into cemetery and work with the others," he -continues, wiping his moustache. The Falstaffs try to rise, but fall -back into their seats laughing. Finally the sergeant-major hits one a -heavy crack on the head with his stick and pulls his red right ear out -like india-rubber to double length, tweaks the other Falstaff by the -nose, and pulls them both up, and shakes them. - -"Na then," says he. "Quick March to the cemetery!" And they go. - -How the dead would have laughed to see this scene! How living are the -living! - - * * * * * - -The way is toward Flers and toward Ginchy. In a grey haze of autumn -sunshine the battlefields stretch like a sea; green waves to the limit -of eyes' view. And there are bits of worn-down woods like those -mysterious wrecks of forest which come into view upon some shores when a -neap-tide leaves them bare. - -Ten years ago the whole land was a fair pleasaunce. Ten years hence it -will doubtless be tamed again if not so fair. The _sinistrés_ of the -Somme are doing a marvellous work already, filling in the pits, -levelling with their spades, and ploughing up the whole with their -little petrol-ploughs. The shell-splashed approaches to the line can -with industry be recovered. And the Frenchman when working for himself -has what seems a slavish love of toil. He does his real worship bending -over _la France_ and he will work on to the end. He has to do a hundred -times what he has already done--and he will do it. A hundredth part of -the battle area of the Somme has been recovered, and on the ninety-nine -parts grow all that naturally would arise if man died out upon this -fertile world. The stinging-nettles are higher than a man's head and -rise on full fleshy stalks, and they are thick like a wall. They grow -from the caked black mud, from sunken equipment and horses and men and -all the jetsam of war. They can make no-man's land strange and terrible -yet, though not so terrible if still impassable. You see gleaming above -the green main-flood of nettle a white Ionic cross shining afar and make -it your landmark. You reach it as a swimmer coming from some ship to a -white buoy on the sea, and find it to be the monument to the 47th -Londons in memory of the taking of Eaucourt. And yonder is a -conventional scribble on the moor--the ruins of Eaucourt. You come out -on to a limy plank road, listening to distant explosions from the -returned peasants making _sauter les abris_ with dynamite, and then the -eye rests on an ugly hump of weed-grown rock, a strange uprising from -the centre of a large tableland. It is the Butte of Warlencourt, for the -possession and retention of which what quantities of blood were shed, -the famous Butte which you can walk up now as you would walk upstairs. -Here stand wooden monuments to the 6th, 8th and 9th Durham Light -Infantry--to the 2nd South African Infantry, and also to Sachs Inf. -Regt. 159 who held the Butte against all comers in 1916 and recaptured -it on the 25th March 1918, and the thoughtful Germans have given their -monument a concrete base. From the top of the Butte there is a complete -circle of view, and one sees a light railway going from it towards -Eaucourt lined with dead desperate trees, one sees once more as it were -waves of the sea on leagues of no-man's land, black ruins of woods, -wrecks of villages--a wonderful standing point and vantage ground in the -great Somme scene. - -[Illustration] - -It is two miles to the entrance to Bapaume. The route nationale from -Albert runs smooth and level below the Butte, a track for -space-devouring motors. On the right of the road the luscious brownness -of the massed timber of an infinite array of new wooden crosses; on the -left, swarthy and scraggy, thistle-swallowed, the decaying memorials of -the German dead--Hier ruht Friedrich Blohm, Paul Vogel, August Dill and -the rest, till Germany comes and takes them back again or in time they -are forgotten and lost. Bapaume is just ahead, but the Army stops short -of it--like flies dragging their limbs across a little fly-paper they -tire and can go no further. There they stick for the dreadful winter of -1916-17 in the most loathsome trenches of the war, in foul and deepening -liquescence, living and dead and rats in a fiendish domesticity. Leagues -of destruction behind them; an enemy wall of flesh and bayonet in front; -rain or cloud or mist, and only occasionally a mocking sun above. A -fresh-faced new officer from the Caithness coast joined in the late -autumn of '16. He arrived at the line at night. His first duty was to -superintend a burying party--some three hundred sodden green bundles to -be disposed of--three hundred gleaned from the mud and the pits and the -verges of no-man's land. He came to the front imbued with the faith of -Donald Hankey, and the belief that under him he would find "the -everlasting arms." He could not endure the ribaldry of the mess and the -war-bred cynicism of those who believed in letting _others_ be heroic. -He brought a Kingsley-Carlylean fervour with him, and believed in -"putting his back into it," and doing even the meanest duty as if it -were infinitely worth while. He tried to know his sergeants and his men. -He was so energetic in the football field playing officers versus -sergeants that the onlookers laughed. He tried to stop bad language and -gambling, and he routed out people to go to the padre's voluntary Sunday -evening services at the back of the lines. He came in 1916; he lasted -till 1918. What was the effect on this man? This, that by 1918 he used -such bad language himself that even the N.C.O.'s were surprised. He -exhausted the conventional execrations of the mess-room, and used -expressions which would never be heard there. We carried him to his -grave at C---- and his sergeants remarked how commonly he had come to -use expressions which no officer would ordinarily employ. Withal he had -his drink and his bet, and became what is called by males, _entre eux_, -a "man's man." Poor hero--from that night of burying green bundles to -that morning when we buried him--he marched through the valley of the -shadow of death, tormented as Pilgrim was by hobgoblins and satyrs. But -when he died he shed his war body, he shed that lurid phraseology, and -became once more, no doubt, the Kingsley-Carlylean hero that he was, -with some sort of knowledge of human sorrow which those who lived in -peace knew not. So it must have been also with those who once breathed -within the sodden green bundles. They shook off something evil when they -died, but in passing through it they must somehow have understood more. -Sorrow dimmed the eyes even of the hardest swearer of the Army. And the -dead now constrain us to a new human tenderness, they empower us to -touch more delicately and to understand more deeply--to love more. Pity -for us if we do not now live differently because of the dead! - -Thus as one walks through Bapaume and sees the children of new Bapaume -playing in their innocence in the streets and the ruins, one can look -down on them more tenderly, more caressingly, for the sake of the dead, -passing on, as it were, man's forgiveness to man. And in our -relationships with the grown-ups, our neighbours, ourselves dressed -differently, we can have more patience, more compassion, more readiness -to help and to be kind. It comes from the dead, it comes from the living -who were dead. - -What that winter was before the Germans retreated! What the hours on the -Cross were before the Saviour died! In our loathing of pain we shudder -to think of it. Others bore it; we must bear it. And when the time is -passed Golgotha remains, that Golgotha which was in fact so near to the -gate of the Temple itself. In Bapaume, where all houses have been made -vaults, stand the white ruins of a church, greyish-white and spectral as -if of the material of another world. But for its pointing walls it is -one white ruin, loveliness in a heap and the baleful shadow of the hand -of the malefactor. In the ruins of the church of the leaning Virgin at -Albert the first words one reads are JESUS NATUS EST, as if the ruins -had been given tongue to say in the moment of death the supreme -Christian paradox, and at Bapaume as you reverently approach this -strange new _Pieta_ you see still unshattered the Church's Latin carved -on stone--AD MEUM SANCTUARIUM--to My sanctuary. If, like Thomas, you do -not believe, you must go forth and touch with your hands and feel with -your eyes--to My sanctuary! - -Bapaume lies more abased even than Albert. It is as if its stones had -had a soul and been afraid, vibrant with the horror of humanity. The -consternation of inanimate matter is expressed in its ruins. The Hotel -de Ville, its seat of power, was evidently built of large granite blocks -which the rising German mine of March 1917 must have scattered like hail -over the town. And amidst these mighty stones flew the tender bodies and -the spirits of the French deputés, Albert Taillandier and Raoul Briquet, -who had just said in their hearts--_The enemy hath departed_, when the -enemy was suddenly at their doors. - -The _sinistrés_ are living in cellars and wooden huts. The -railway-station is two "baby elephants" of rusty iron. Where were large -shops and as one can imagine, in the old days, shop-fronts full of -ladies' costumes and hats, windows displaying bedroom suites of -furniture, windows full of stationery and books, are now diminutive -piles of rubbish pathetically ticketed with the name of the old -establishment--Maison Betrancourt, Maison this, Maison that--_transferée -à un autre lieu_. In the Grande Place stands the much-shrapnelled base -of a monument where the stone hero has gone to join the hero he -commemorated, and the spite of a new era has even endeavoured to erase -his name. - -Where thousands lived and loved and pushed their trade and died, now but -a few hundred hold together in the midst of the wilderness. They have -assembled from all points of the compass. War whirled some to Germany, -some to Paris, some to the Pyrenees. The hopeful came back and the -faithful decided to stay. It is a picture of human triumph over -destruction, but only a pathetic triumph, not a glorious one. In the -summer, with long days and warm nights it is less unnatural to live in -this waste. Warmth and light join the _sinistrés_ to all France and -Europe, but winter with its short days and cold and great darkness folds -away the vision of a resurrection. A poky train, without lights, creeps -at night from Achiet to Bapaume through villages of fearful name. -Bapaume becomes conscious of all the dreadful places which surround it, -places whose names are full of the awe of death and of the -war--Riencourt, Bullecourt, Ervillers, Mory, Vaulx-Vraucourt, and a -hundred others, nothing in themselves but held in the cerements of the -dead. - -It is a strange walk now, to the Hindenburg line. You are traversing -ground which was four times overtrodden and overfought. The Germans took -it in 1914. We shelled it in 1916 and drove the enemy out in 1917. The -enemy swept over it in March 1918 and then let it go as he retired in -September. German, French, and British lie buried beside one another. -The Germans lost their dead and then recaptured them. It is an appalling -country, still as it were sulphurous with the war, stinking vaguely of -cordite. The dead have got a grip on it, and hold with their hands the -lap of earth which the peasants are ploughing. The air which is apt to -sparkle in autumn frost is full of the light of the eyes of the men who -once lived. And that light rests about the broken barns and billets and -churches and halls. There is an influence which is pulling one way all -the time, and that is not towards this world. - -The graveyards are many, and they have their history. It always seems a -pity that it was not allowed during the war to make mention on the cross -how and where each soldier met his death. The military mind imagined -that such details might give information to the enemy or to the Press, -and forbade anything beyond name, number, and regiment. Texts also were -prohibited, the chaplains being over-ruled. Not that texts could -entirely be kept out. In one of the cemeteries near Bapaume there stands -for the time being a large wooden cross inscribed "He is not here; he -is risen," which has an astonishing effect amidst a thousand crosses -which are dumb. - -There are many many rows of human bodies planted out near -Vaulx-Vraucourt, first a German cemetery with its old crosses torn to -bits, partly no doubt by shells; and then side by side a regular British -cemetery where lie many Australians, one of whom, Lieut. Pidgeon (aged -23) has a little figure of Christ riven from a crucifix stuck in the -earth beside his wooden cross. Here lie also many of the Leeds Rifles, -seven even in one grave, killed evidently in the terrible encounter with -the German machine-gunners in September '18. The German memorials go -more into decay each day, but a man is paid to keep the British bright -and clean and in repair, and his dog bites at the heels of the pilgrim -as he walks from the dead to the dead. Facing both are the gaunt white -ruins of the village church and the hideous smashage of the French -communal cemetery, and there the people have put artificial roses in old -rusty shell-cases in front of their stricken memorials. - -Further on, beside the light railway which runs north to Ecoust, there -are tiny cemeteries. In one of these Germans and British are mingled, -thus--Gefreiter Luckenmeyer of the German Field artillery betwixt a man -of the Londons and a man of the Devons, and a German unknown and a -British Tommy lie in a little plot together by themselves. In some -cemeteries the bodies of our foes were buried just outside those of our -own kindred, but as exhumed bodies were brought in, ever increasingly, -it has come about that we have surrounded German graves with our own, -and as it were accidentally forgiven our enemies and received them into -the midst of the family. - -Over the way at Vraucourt Copse, perched high in a sun-kissed wheatfield -lies Lieut. A. S. Robinson of the Royal Scots, with 22 private soldiers' -names inscribed on his cross. One wondered if it would be true to -say--"Here he lies where he longed to be" and did he love Stevenson and -often quote - - Under the wide and starry sky - Dig my grave and let me lie. - -These Royal Scots have the widest of all starry skies above them and the -unbarred gate of heaven in its midst. - -A little further still and you have the Australian cemetery at Noreuil -at the corner of the road, rectilinear, handsome, clean and cared-for, -neatly fenced in with wire and having a little white gate by which to -enter. But outside the cemetery and as it were falling back in every -attitude of banishment and despair, the old faded wood and broken -crosses of the Germans, overgrown with weeds, crazy-roofed crosses, -aslant, tumbled. In 1916 the enemy began to bury here. In 1917 he left -his dead behind. In 1918 he recaptured them and repaired the -crosses--and added to them. In 1918 it was a decent graveyard; one could -read the names of all the dead. But their kindred went away and forgot. -Their crosses are the monuments of the forgotten and the vague memorial -of a useless sacrifice. - -Doubtless the drama of the penultimate year 1917 did not centre in the -supra-Somme country. Its scenes of action were at Lens and Vimy, at -Pilkelm Ridge and Passchendaele. The year which ran on from the German -retirement was the strangest of the war, promising everything, -fulfilling nothing, beginning with Haig's victory interview and ending -with the failures in Flanders and the German break-through from Cambrai. -It was the year of American self-announcement, of the Russian -revolution, of the pros and contras of peace at Stockholm, of the -victory of the Bolsheviks, of the Italian debacle. Germany seemed to -grow stronger all the year, and the morale of the Allies waned. Men no -longer betted one another that it would be all over by Christmas. Lord -Grey's supposed prediction was forgotten. The whisper went abroad that -"it might last a lifetime," and then in mock cynicism, _They say the -first seven years will be the worst_. New units hitherto untried in the -war still made their appearance, whole battalions whose war-history -commences with the conflicts about Lens or the battles for -Passchendaele Ridge. The Derby drafts were reputed to come marching to -the strains of "The Church's One Foundation" singing their own -confession-- - - We are Lord Derby's Army - Just come across the sea. - We cannot march, we cannot shoot, - What bloomin' good are we? - -And the old army said "Where have you been this long while?" The -conscripts however were to follow in even more desperate case, and when -they first reached France and their tender feet struck the cobbled -roadways they sang--not a hymn, but a new version of "Auld Lang Syne"-- - - We're here because we're here, - Because we're here, because we're here, - We're here because we're here, - Because we're here, because we're here. - -"Take me back to dear old Blighty!" was the song of the whole army and -had completely displaced Tipperary. - -No doubt owing to the German withdrawal to the Hindenburg Line the -Allied plan of attack for the summer had been foiled. All the machinery -of assault had been arranged for a stubborn and dreadful prolongation of -the Somme battle between the horizons where winter had halted it. The -greatest concentration of guns which the war had seen had to be -liquidated. New gun-positions had to be dug and a new concentration -achieved. Telephone and telegraph had to be brought up to a new line. -Organisation work which would ordinarily have been accomplished in the -quiet winter months had to be done through the campaigning season of -Spring and Summer. Men looked less seriously on the war, though the war -was not less serious for them. Witness the sinister stare of the Lens -country which knew the 1917 army and has looked on terrible things. We -made Lens in 1917 into a narrow deep pocket full of Germans. The taking -of it was confidently anticipated. Fleet Street wanted it to serve on a -platter to Herod. But it could not be had though thousands died for it. -The enemy held it by miracle. It was impossible to hold such a position -but the impossible held. - -Grey and terrible is Vimy Ridge with its line of block-houses and the -masts of Farbus Wood. Looking outward from Vimy o'er the vast Arras -war-scape the eye is sick and returns in vision to itself as the dove -returned to the Ark when it found no other mercy of the Lord above -misery's tide. - -Praise God the enemy could not do to Arras what we did to Lens! Arras -still lives, surmounting the grandeur of her ruins. The Cathedral with -the top of its massive tower gnawn off by Fate is to be preserved for -ever as a memorial of these days. You can climb from the grass-grown -rubble below to mountains of lime and broken stone and reach a high -eminence against the pinky-grey fissured wall of the tower. It is -sunset, and you look down upon widespread recuperative Arras standing in -pink haze into which smoky air or fog is pouring. The houses are grey or -splotchy with their shrapnel marks still on them, but there are others -which are red and white, and these stand gaping with empty glassless -windows. You look on spangling new red roofs, you look on Noah's Arks, -you look on half-consumed unsupported walls, you look on shadows which -are pits where houses were. On the one hand is the lofty massiveness of -the Episcopal Palace--on the other the irrecoverable smash of poor men's -homes. From all this great city below, pious men and women used to come -to the Cathedral--but now no more shall they come. - -You step down from the height, and cross the cobbled immensity of the -Cathedral Square. Every shop all the four sides has the same façade -above, the same porticos below, and from grimy and broken windows four -hundred ruined wizened houses stare. Then night has come. God has called -away the redness and left the murk. You turn and see the mountain of -God's house. There is no tint of rose in the grey walls now, no petty -detail of ruin, but one general effect. The Cathedral tower is a great -black mass. It is suffering made supreme and dominant, the shadow of a -mediæval Christ on the Cross. It is a romantic but dreadful pointer full -of terror and power. Men creep diminutively across the vast and shoppy -square, and the great feudal shadow above them makes them smaller yet. - -All night the shadow reigns, becoming even mightier in the moonlight, -and crowning itself with starry diadem. But there come the mists of the -morning and then morn itself, and you may stand where now no longer Mass -is heard--on the East side of the Cathedral, and see the white light of -heaven streaming through gossamer and driving out pale silhouettes of -the shadows of all the bleared houses of the Square. There are pale -peaked shadows of all the façades which face the Cathedral. Over your -head sounds the rush of dove's wings. Men and women everywhere are -moving; men with their tools and women with their baskets. The life of -the city goes on, but the dream of the ruin has fallen back into the -night and limbo, and will not be recovered till the stars come again. - -The city of Arras was the pilot city of the British in 1917. All -Flanders looked to her from the left, all France from the right. And in -'18 when the tide of Fortune changed she was our bulwark of defence and -was right in the fighting line like a Coeur de Lion with battle-axe at -Acre. Our mighty city of coal and steel in England has chosen specially -to identify itself with Arras--Newcastle-on-Tyne--and Arras has many -English sons. It is no doubt natural to say that Newcastle has adopted -Arras, as we might say of a converted man that he had taken Christ to -himself, but the deeper truth is that Arras has adopted Newcastle--"Ye -have not chosen me but I have chosen you." - -The British victories at Arras and the French victories above Verdun -were of happy augury. But no victory is a victory unless followed by a -victory, and Time itself wilts laurels. Haig's dream of striking the -enemy hard and often, leaving no time to recover from a blow at one -point before calamity fell upon him at another, proved only a dream. The -German invention of mustard gas and the appearance of many hostile tanks -upon the scene were examples of the unforeseen. Very efficient tank-guns -and studied methods of attack upon tanks reduced the usefulness of our -new war-engine to comparatively low terms. In the late summer we -embarked on a new campaign in Flanders, and our best weapon was a still -boundless belief in our ability to "beat the Hun" whom, mentally, in -every possible way, the army under-rated. The Hun, so-called, suffered -nothing like so much as our fellows. He would not have stood so much. -And of all war-struggles, that which sank at last to rest in the -wilderness of Poelcapelle and Passchendaele in the November of the year -seemed the most hopeless. - -Much of the main interest of humanity was transferred from the strife at -the front to other scenes of action. 1917 was an air and water year, a -submarine year, a Gotha year. London was terrified by day by wonderful -almost invisible planes which ravaged East-end schools and caused the -exodus from Whitechapel to Brighton. Daylight raids were followed by -starlight raids, and although the papers of the time laughed at such -affairs and said we liked them, there is no need to keep up that -deception now. London suffered in mind excruciatingly. - -With the persistent bombing of London came a more systematic bombing of -the lines at night. It is more unpleasant, though really safer, to await -bombs in open fields than it is in London, but the soldier loathed the -bomb from air far more than he did the shell. The transverse movement of -the shell no doubt gives the mind more scope for judgment and calm than -does the missile falling vertically. - -The Germans were so impressed by this fear of bombs that they -endeavoured to give shelter underground to each and every one of their -soldiers when threatened from above. There must have been a regular -routine like fire-drill when our bombing planes went over, and Fritz was -marched into his enormous subterranean shelters. British and French -troops had no such organised way of escape, and they had to find what -cover they could where they were. It was always surprising what a number -of miscellaneous casualties were caused by the night-bombers. - -Expectation of the German planes' approach was intense, and men could -distinguish readily the sound of the engines of our own planes and those -of the enemy. There seemed to be something peculiarly sinister in the -sound of a "Jerry" and men were fond of imitating it in screeds of words -in the style of "Hush hush hush, here comes the bogey man!" - -A characteristic imitation given sometimes at regimental concerts used -to run in this way:-- - - _I-see-ye, I-see-ye, I-see-ye, - I-see-ye. - I'm coming, I'm coming, I'm coming. - Biv-eee, biv-eee, biv-eee. - Sh, sh........sh. - HAH! - I'm off, I'm off, I'm off, - I'm off!_ - -And a current French marching-song of the time imitated the promiscuous -crump of bomb-explosions thus:-- - - _Il pleut, il pleut des bombes - (Et boum! et bon! badaboum et bon!) - Il s'ecriera Guillaume - Rentrons, rentrons-- - Zon, zon._ - -But no rhyme in any language ever expressed that lurid splash on the -night-sky when a bomber was destroyed, that effusion of crimson which -caused men's eyes to dilate looking up at it, that sense of dreadfulness -and awe and satisfaction, that banishment of pity through fear's -reaction which steeped men's minds, as if on the floor of their souls an -answering red glow appeared. It was tragical to be bombed, but how much -more so to see the bomber die. They died most dreadful deaths, those -Zeppelin crews and aero-bus teams, and yet of course they merely died. -They met the common soldier's destiny---- Nevertheless you could not -lessen the sensation of watching an airman's death by reasonableness. In -the lurid spectacle in the heavens men saw not death but a -hieroglyphic--a sign. - -Men did not liken them to Lucifer cast from heaven, but their fall was -like the rebel angels' fall-- - - With hideous ruin and combustion, down - To bottomless perdition. - -Day-flying was different and affected the mind in an entirely different -way. Even the stricken night-bomber, when his charred remains were seen -by daylight, became in enemies' eyes nothing but honourable. The triumph -over him was forgotten in a sort of triumph in him. There was a -naturally chivalrous attitude towards dead airmen. That chivalry was -sometimes spoiled by human jackals--but the majority nevertheless -instinctively preserved it. - -Many of the graves of our airmen were marked by crosses which are -adorned with carven wings, and in this speaks, not only a military but a -human pride. Foot-soldiers did not see in the aeroplane a mere -mechanical contrivance but a new human victory over matter. The feats of -airmen flattered pedestrian souls, who knew thereby that they could fly -if they would, flattered us all. Because men had to enter some section -of the fighting services thousands chose to fly and fight who otherwise -would not have been tempted off the firmer elements of land and sea. -They conquered the first nausea of fear, and learned to live with danger -as with a wife. They tumbled above us and we marvelled, not taking -anywise into account the war-sting which started them, bidding neither -sit nor stand but go. One is not sorry that the guns speak no more. One -is not sorry that the night-bombers and Zeppelins have ceased to menace -us. But the emptiness of the heavens by day has its sadness now in -France, its human wanness and melancholy. One realises that the war -brought out the flier--as it were before his time, and we must wait long -ere we see in peace the state of air society which he prefigured. - -Down below the airmen trudged heavy-footed men. The airmen were -literally supermen; those below were a sort of undermen. In heavily -weighted boots, with backs bent and not straightened by war's routine, -with clumsily encumbered bodies, trudged under-humanity, through mud, -along gulleys, into holes and pits, down into subterranean chambers. The -underman enjoyed no human exaltation except occasionally at the prospect -of getting free; he had no mercurial lightness on his heels, no rapid -quicksilver of mounting imagination; instead, he was gripped downward -and held till he died or there was peace. It used to be a common saying -that from the moment you stepped off at Havre you were a slave. You -walked in the chains of the war. Men's hearts hardened. They told -themselves they wanted nothing and cared nothing. Their minds fell -victims to a dull passivity or false boisterousness. They banished the -bright ego and took up with a Cerberus, yowled the dog-language of the -army, and got selfishly irate over biscuits and slops and bully-beef. -They grew more and more dirty and came out in boils. Coarse hair grew -apace, brows grew lower, hands that had any cunning in them grew to mere -claws and clutches, eyes dullened, and the ear-gate stood ajar for the -sound of animal noises and animal confessions. The war was a Bacchanalia -for the animal in man. - -It was in 1917 that Paris leave as a supplement to the usual home leave -was common. This was understood as for the soldier's health. It would -stop the boils and ease the system. Men could draw a handsome arrear of -pay on the strength of Paris leave, and once in Paris they went deeper -than in the dug-outs of the war. Or units were withdrawn to places where -the women thronged. Men were robbed by the war of their respect unto -their living selves. And 1917 saw the entry of puritan America into the -war, the nation of vice-hunting and prohibition, and the rest. But it -did not raise the morality of rank and file. The Yanks were shipped with -a thirst. The men brought up in sheltered Western communities proved to -have no more power than we had to resist the temptations of European -vice. The virus of the army seems to have been the same in United States -training grounds as in those of England. Material conditions imposed -some restraint, but imagination fed the starved side of men's souls with -lurid pictures of what obtained in France. Uncle Sam's common soldiers, -handsome and clean as they were, and brave, yet brought with them an -expectancy which caused them to take no moral lead but on the contrary -to plunge headlong into that war-mire which we had all been making. And -disease ravaged the American ranks. Some few thousands fell dead on the -field of battle and some tens of thousands were wounded, but disease -casualties filled the hospitals. It was fortunate for America's manhood -that the war was not protracted. Their war enthusiasm was pushing them -on. They did not realise that what they called "the shooting gallery" -was a myriad-fold death-trap. Death in many shapes was ready to raven on -America. As her men were inexperienced in war's alarms, so also were -they unfitted to face the moral ordeal. Humanitarianism, materialism, -and a superimposed morality do not produce men more capable of -withstanding temptation. Purity depends too often on keeping temptation -away. The Yanks brought their own brand of bad language with them--a -language beside which lurid English was but pale. Where they had learned -such verbal frightfulness seemed puzzling. But curiously enough it -caused the American soldier to be hail-fellow well-met. He brought no -airs of moral superiority or prudishness. It became a pastime in the -British army to imitate admiringly the American type of swearing. It is -all beyond the power of the pen. But those who heard it know. If the -Yanks had kept to this extreme they would have remained enduringly -popular--but they vaunted their prowess and exaggerated their feats and -ignored the reality of the hell through which others had been, and they -started the talk of their winning the war, and so lost ground. The -Americans in France were on the whole perplexing to the average -European. Their exaggerated thirst for war's relaxations on the one -hand tended to make them one with the other armies in the field, but -their idea of superiority kept them separate. - -At Calais now the boxes are stacked on the quays with the embalmed -American dead. At great cost of time and labour the dead soldiers are -being removed from the places where they fell and packed in crates for -transport to America. In this way America's sacrifice is lessened. For -while in America this is considered to be America's own concern, it is -certain that it is deplored in Europe. The taking away of the American -dead has given the impression of a slur on the honour of lying in -France. America removes her dead because of a sweet sentiment towards -her own. She takes them from a more honourable resting-place to a less -honourable one. It is said to be due in part to the commercial -enterprise of the American undertakers, but it is more due to the -sentiment of mothers and wives and provincial pastors in America. That -the transference of the dead across the Atlantic is out of keeping with -European sentiment she ignores, or fails to understand. America feels -that she is morally superior to Europe. American soil is God's own -country and the rest is comparatively unhallowed. To be one in death -with Frenchmen, Italians, Negroes, Chinamen, Portuguese, does not suit -her frame of mind. Of course, lack of imagination, lack of knowledge of -the war and of the great mix-up of the dead is natural enough at a -distance of three thousand miles--the vain thought that the identity of -dead bodies with human beings can be retained. As it is, the inscription -on every hundredth cross in France is probably a misnomer. There never -was time for meticulous care, and the dead were not always buried by -full daylight or identified by other than the slightest of clues. Is it -remarkable if someone receives instead of soldier son the body of a -coolie from China, or if a citizen should receive what portends to be -his own corpse? By risking such accidents the majesty of the dead is -offended. If love desired its dead again, love should come and lift its -dead with its own hands and carry it home. - -Politically understood, there should be no property in the dead bodies -of this great war. There is only one totality of death and suffering. -The dead of the war are a blend. One high stone might stand at the head -of each cemetery, and on it all the names be inscribed. The little -crosses with name and numbers on each are but desperate human reminders -of individuality. But for a dreadful peace, worse than the war, America -would have been convinced, as was her war-commander Pershing, that it -was nobler to leave her sacrifices on the altar with the others. - -Had America's ideal won all had been different, but only the side she -joined won and not the ideal. France and England broke the spirit of -America's great President and ruined him as the Kaiser was ruined, -relegated him to another Amerongen, drove him to his Ekaterinburg too, -the third great monarch and leader of men to lose his crown in the war. -The American masses were left leaderless, bereft of their ideal. In -contempt for a vain France and distrust of a lip-serving inimical -England they plunged for "_America first and always and one hundred per -cent_." But had Wilson carried his great program there had been no -estrangement, no exhuming of the American dead. America would have -gloried in her European shrines. Therefore in looking upon the collapsed -heaps of coffins in the harbour and the dead glowering through riven -wood, one is really looking upon an aspect of the Treaty of Versailles. -In the second year after the war you see terrible things. Who could have -foreseen thousands of dead stacked in the holds of Atlantic vessels, -making their unmurmurous return across the ocean! - -It is night again in human history, deep night, when we dream things of -evil and look upon sights of horror which we have no power to dispel. In -the gathering gloom of the autumn of 1920 see a whole succession of -phantoms stalking. Ireland goes wailing and clanking her chains. -Exultant France struts and threatens. Ghosts of Tsar and Tsarina are -crying pitifully from Siberian dust. Red demons, mirthless and terrible, -stare at us from Russia. Italia stabs nightly fair Fiume. And all the -while maledictory shouts and cries are heard on all hands. - -Spectres and ghosts and things of evil stalk around and terrify us, and -there is only one way to lay them low, and that is by the token of the -Cross--by the token of the crosses, the hundreds of thousands of them -that run out like rows of pins in France. It is only coming from France -that the right approach can be made to new life. Let each new man faring -forth into this beset enchanted world dip his soul in the blood of the -Altar of France--or if not his very soul, let him at least dip a -kerchief or a flag there--for remembrance. With that charm he can -uncurse curses and disenchant enchantment and break through the chimeras -and fogs which cling to the base of the mountain of the world, and he -will reach the singing-bird and the water of life at the top of the -mountain, and then restore, as in the Arabian tale, the dead to life. - -Doubtless every man who was in the Army and took a chance of death and -yet escaped, must have reflected on his good fortune, the strange light -of Providence which fell upon his destiny and spared him whilst on all -hands his friends and neighbours and fellow-countrymen had fallen. As -the soldier left the Army and became civilian again he inevitably -thought to himself--"Whereas I might have been dead I am alive; whereas -I might be bond I am free." And some indeed could add "Whereas I might -have been a cripple, or blind, or lamed, or a neurasthenic or a -shell-shocked broken man I am sound and fit and have a whole life and -freedom to give to the new time which comes with the blessing of peace." - -The Frenchman came back to a glorified and magnified France; to a proved -capacity to defeat and hold in check a deadly and historical enemy. The -Englishman came back to a free England, to a nation who was queen of the -nations, to a larger and more untrammelled world-empire; the Belgian to -a justified and safeguarded Belgium; the American to an America which -had achieved for the first time in history a complete sense of -nationhood and unity. The Serbian returned to a resurrected Serbia and a -prospective future of Southern Slav greatness. Of the Italian, who -joined in the war as a bargain with the others and did not fight -primarily for our ideals, we will say nothing. But how near we all were -to being beaten, and to realising the very opposite of the present happy -potentialities. But a turn in the wheel or a hair in the scale, and the -French would have been slaves, the Englishman beaten on land if not on -sea would have returned cowering to his little island, empire falling -from his grasp and almost the whole bill of the war to defray by the -efforts of his restive working-class population; the Belgian a German -subject; the American flouted and anxious with the shadow of a terrible -new war to fight all by himself in the years to come; the Serbian a peon -of Bulgaria or shackled in the heavy rusty Austrian irons. When we are -in despair in 1920, 1921, 1922 we should all say to ourselves--"Whereas -we might have been slaves we are free; whereas we might have been dead -we are alive----" It is what the graveyards of France tell those who -look at them. The dead are all pointing mutely to themselves. Their -crosses are the direction-posts of new life. - -Our enemy came nearer to overthrowing us by the result of the Russian -Revolution than by anything else. The defection of Russia, the -liberation of the German and Austrian Eastern armies, nearly took -victory away from us, and we have God and our cause to thank for -salvation. In the late summer and autumn of 1917 the tide of victory -turned and began to roll the other way. At the battle for Passchendaele -commenced the last year of the war. In that year we experienced every -emotion of victory and defeat. The year opened inauspiciously at -Passchendaele where so many fell trying to traverse an infernal area of -wire and pits and mud, facing the reinforced machine-gunners, facing the -new gas, facing the fire of a vastly increased artillery. Many a cheery -boy with muddy uniform and bright morning face stood up for the last -time at Passchendaele, and unexpectedly--died for England. You may seek -their bodies in the Flemish earth to-day. Perhaps one of them is the -unknown soldier in the Abbey. But their spirits are far away from here. -They are watchful and radiant and celestial now--not so lovable perhaps -in their immortality, for how can mortals feel for the immortals, but -enormously more lovable in our mortal conception of them than ever they -were when alive--the dead of the last year of the war. - -Passchendaele was followed by the sudden triumph of the Austrian armies -in the Italian Alps, and the surrender of a hundred thousand Italians -and a thousand guns. Revolutionary propaganda was said to have been -ravaging the Italian soldier's mind. Others said the Italians sold the -day to the enemy. But the prime cause of Austrian victory was to be -sought in the great accession of strength due to the Russian lapse from -war. No more offensives of Brusilof; no Grand Duke Nicholas any more to -terrify Vienna; not even a Kornilof! Austria naturally rounded upon her -Southern foe with double might. Vienna bells rang forth and Berlin -floated in military joy. Wilhelmstrasse, the street of the Kaiser, -reflected deeply and sucked in the significance of the new victory. -After a desperate summer of peace-seeking suddenly a last hope of -triumph dawned like a fiery star late in the night and nigh unto -morning. The thought of coming with a white flag to the Council of -Europe was banished. Instead the stern decree of war to the uttermost -bound the German mind to the old choice of "complete victory or -downfall." Despite our opinion of the enemy conveyed in sneers at -concrete dug-outs and funk-holes and the "Kamerad" cry, the Germans -decided to come all out and win or lose on a gambler's throw. It was -perhaps more calculated and more calculable than the cast of the dice, -but if the Allies won, Germany had no second chance and would know that -she had lost. - -Teutonic preparations went ahead. The Allies took little stock of these -preparations, not believing that the enemy had much kick left in him. -Instead of organising our defence we planned a new attack upon the -Germans, and to the astonishment and chagrin of the latter the Byng Boys -carried off the laurels of the Battle of Cambrai. Fritz was taken by -surprise in late November, and we nearly went all the way to Cambrai. -Fleet Street wished to have joy-bells rung in London, but the Church -wisely bade us wait, while wrathful Germany averred that we had gone -into a trap in which we should presently be terribly caught. Then in the -break-through of Gouzeaucourt we learned the lesson that a new and more -dangerous enemy was in front of us. - -As you walk now along the Byng Boys way on a November afternoon and the -sun goes down in greyness and gloom you can feel the mystery of the -battle as if it had occurred hundreds of years ago. Reality has become -remote, remote as the last songs and shouts of the men who went through. -Sadness has covered the earth. It is all incredibly empty and desolate. -On a post on the road you discern through the evening mist ICI BOURSIES -and then after much plodding you pass the grey empty Canal du Nord with -its crumpled rusty bridges, and skirt the naked bones of Bourlon Wood. -Then by the side of the road all the dead of Anneux are lined up to see -you pass. You go on, but _they_ remain. It seems as if when you have -passed some spectral sergeant must say to all those pallid ranks "Fall -out!" and the order is broken up, and the dead mingle and commingle till -another comes past upon the broad highway. Night settles like a curtain -shutting off Cambrai from the view, and no light on any hand tells of a -return to home or of happiness restored. Suddenly the silence is broken -by three blundering lorries--old lorries of the war tearing past you -back on the road to Bapaume--ghostly lorries laden with doors, doors -only, to be dumped at some wilderness somewhere which was once a town. -They pass, and the night-silence resumes its sway, and there are no -stars but it is utter peace. Again a spectral post--ICI FONTAINE, ICI -FONTAINE NOTRE DAME, and you have reached the end of the fight, and the -bridge where life met death and both stood at last immobile, unyielding. - -A happier-looking place is the wood of Havrincourt where a Brigade of -Guards was sleeping, waiting and resting after the ordeal of Bourlon and -Fontaine. They had been relieved on the 26th November and marched back -in snow to this wood where in the umbrage of the forest and on the -carpet of withered leaves and snow they set up many tents. And whiles -they rested the enemy put into action a bold plan of encirclement which -might have caused the complete loss of Sir Julian Byng's army and guns -and of everything else in the pocket of Cambrai. One of the most -remarkable moments of the whole war occurred. Of many impressions of -what took place the story which one of the Guards' quartermasters tells -is most pictorial. He had set off early in the morning of the 30th -November for Villers au Flos to get money to pay his men. They had just -come out of action. He rode through Metz and Bertingcourt, where the -other Brigades were billeted, and no one was stirring. There was no hint -of coming trouble when he passed through Ruyaulcourt, where lay the -Divisional Headquarters Staff. On all roads were the usual road-carts, -plodding along in humdrum style. But by the time he reached Villers au -Flos, however, an alarm of some kind had evidently come, for the cashier -was busy packing up his cash and his papers, and flatly refused to pay -out any money whatever. Though not wishing to confess fright, he was -evidently extremely perturbed. - -"But I must have money for the men," cried the visiting officer. "The -coffee-bars and canteens will soon be arriving up there and opening; the -men are tired after the fighting. They have won a great victory and must -have some relaxation now, so you'll have to give me some money." - -"It isn't a victory, it's a retreat," said the cashier. "They say the -Germans have broken through." - -"Rot," said the Guardsman. "I have just come from the line and all is -quiet. You get wind up easily, you folk." - -He gained his point, and was happy to turn about his horse with a full -16,000 francs to pay out. On his return, however, the German -break-through became apparent and he realised that the cashier had been -right. He sampled all the adventures of the situation. First he saw -soldiers without rifle or equipment running intently, and he, not -suspecting the significance of their flight, thought there was a -paper-chase on, arranged by some regiment that was resting in the -neighbourhood. But at Bertingcourt, to his great astonishment, he met a -battalion of Guards in fighting order marching to action in the opposite -direction from that in which he understood the enemy to be. It was -incredible that it could have happened, but he realised that the enemy -had somehow shifted his ground. This regiment had been fighting at -Bourlon and Fontaine in the north--and now they were marching south to -fight again. South and not north--what could have happened! He "passed -the time of day" to the commander and learned that the worst was true, -the enemy had broken through at Gouzeaucourt. The further he rode along -the way to Havrincourt Wood the stranger became the sights which -confronted his eyes. The roads, which had now been cleared by order, -began to have troops going up to stem the German advance, and every now -and then a car plunging the other way. Out of Bertingcourt he met the -2nd Brigade Machine-Gun transport, saddled up and under orders. The -water in the jackets of the machine-guns was frozen and they wondered -how they'd thaw them. There were still many fugitives on the road, and -at cross-roads he overheard two of them who were contradicting one -another in the most violent language as to which was the way. He could -tell that their nerves had got the better of them by their high falsetto -tones. They were as unlike characteristic British soldiers as it is -possible to imagine. At Metz-en-Couture there was a complete jam of -traffic, which lasted all the way along the high-road towards -Gouzeaucourt. The retiring masses were greatly in excess of those going -up. They were mostly the transport of those who belonged to the -rear--railway-men, A.S.C., ambulance, canteen, Y.M.C.A. and what-not. A -pained expression was on the chauffeurs' faces, every one of whom -seemed to desire to say what a terrific speed he would make if he could -only get clear of the deadlock. He saw the ranks of the Guards broken -and made uneven by the struggle to get through. Outside Metz was a -Colonel of Grenadiers on horseback, enraged past belief at the -obstruction of his Guardsmen, and addressing the chauffeurs and -wagon-men in every imaginable blend of language. His aspect so terrified -our officer with the cash that he decided to make a detour and get to -his quarters at Havrincourt Wood by a cross-country route. But the -Germans had a high-velocity gun on Metz and shelled it methodically, and -he had not taken many steps when an exploding shell wounded his horse in -the head. He did not want anything to happen to him with 16,000 francs -on his person, so he decided to brave the presence of the justifiably -enraged Grenadier and proceed along the roadway as best he could. This -he did, but when at last he got to Havrincourt Wood his battalion was -gone and he was not able to get abreast of his men and pay them till -they came out of action some days afterwards and the Germans had been -stopped. - -The alarm had come about breakfast-time. Nothing was doing in camp; no -parades. Both officers and men were taking things easy in order to shake -off the Bourlon Wood exhaustion. Some were sleeping, some were shaving, -one Brigadier was in his bath, when the order came for the Guards to -stand-to and be in readiness, as the position east of Gouzeaucourt was -considered "obscure." - -The Headquarters of the 1st Brigade was at Metz, and a great deal was -due, no doubt, to the Brigadier who discovered that the Germans had -broken through and promptly decided to push on and occupy the high -ground east of Gouzeaucourt. The General of the 1st Brigade of Guards -was a fine figure of a soldier, with bold eyes, massive shoulders and -brows, and finely-curved smiling lips. Mounted on his white horse at the -cross-roads of Metz he was in charge of the situation. It was he who saw -the first fugitives come in, green, trembling, speechless with panic, -and as others followed breathless the same way, he deflected their -course into a great courtyard, lately the courtyard of the Army Corps -Headquarters. With that the Brigadier rode out along the Gouzeaucourt -road, and presently beyond Gouzeaucourt Wood he came into contact with -German patrols, and he rode back to Metz and called out the Guards. -Meanwhile the extraordinary stampede continued--Labour men, gunners with -breech-blocks in their hands, riflemen with or without rifles and -equipment, transport, some men half-dressed. And those who could speak -called out to those whom they met that the Germans were coming. There -were officers as well as men, and even chaplains, in the throng, and a -German aeroplane hovered overhead and followed with machine-gun fire, -methodically stirring up the panic to a higher and higher pitch. The -Guards debouched from Metz in close column and deployed in artillery -formation under cover of Gouzeaucourt Wood. As they hurried up the road -they passed the fugitive streams going the other way. The look on the -Guards' faces as they encountered the others was one of astonishment and -bewilderment. It would have been difficult to agree that the two streams -of troops belonged to the same nation. Two different conditions of -soldiery. With one there was discipline, with the others discipline had -gone. - -The road from Gouzeaucourt to Metz is a sort of gully, a deep-dug way -between high banks, and along the sides one still sees shards of old -rifles, rusty helmets, bits of equipment, and mess-tins. The peasants in -farming the ditches have unearthed not a few Mills' bombs which now -repose in piles by the side of the road. Here also reposes a dug-up -Lewis gun and various parts and bits of war's attire thrown away -possibly in the stampede, perhaps however, despite an inevitable -association of ideas, belonging to another moment of the war. For -although the Guards re-established the line once more it broke again in -the succeeding March, when once more the Germans pursued their foes -through the jetsam-covered streets of Gouzeaucourt. - -Gouzeaucourt was evidently greatly smitten by the war. It is a very -extensive village raked by the devil from end to end. It swarms now on -housetop and in yard with builders and joiners. A widespread clatter -ascends from every road so that the very sparrows cannot hear themselves -chirp. Hundreds of white barrack-like shelters have sprung into being. -But as if the villagers had not had time for small amenities, every -street and alley is strewn with brickbats. The scenery of the war still -holds, and November 30th could be played over again without loss of -reality from the scene. - -The road out to Metz is quiet enough now with carts of turnips jolting -along where three Novembers ago the lorries were fleeing. On the top of -the bank stretches the view of a war moorland becoming once more -grain-productive. To the north lies a pleasant boscage, the verdure of -Havrincourt. Along the south goes the straight line and the tree-stumps -which mark the Cambrai-Peronne road. - -Metz-en-Couture looks like a great rubbish-heap from which masses of -decaying brickwork are projecting. It is much less alive than -Gouzeaucourt. Its returned French peasants are however at work. Like all -desolated places which are off the railway it has to depend on motor -transport for the materials of reconstruction, and it is -characteristically behindhand compared with towns on the railway. And -Gouzeaucourt is well served by a railway from Cambrai. - -At Metz-en-Couture is a roadside cemetery. How good that most of the -cemeteries are actually close to the highways, and even automobilists -speeding past will see them, though it be only a blur on the -consciousness. All the crosses will fade into one another as a car -passes them. Here at Metz the Chinese and the Germans are put together -as outcasts from the pens of decency if not from God's grace. But it -will be all one to the man who passes by and does not pause to see. The -pilgrim however will find the graves of the stalwart Guardsmen, and -remember that they met their end saving the day and marching the right -way when the foe had broken through. The whole winter of 1917-18 might -have been very terrible had the Germans gained a great victory here, and -bad as it was the rout of March 1918 might have been complete. As you -walk back from Metz to Gouzeaucourt you figure again the way the enemy -was stopped and his grand potential victory robbed of its crown. In -Gouzeaucourt the Guards took back a hundred and fifty guns. Beyond -Gouzeaucourt Wood they cleared out the machine-gunners. Next day at dawn -the Grenadiers made good the line and together with the Indian cavalry -closed the gap and dug in. The Indians were most happy in their -association with the Guards in victory, and averred that henceforth -December First would always be known as Grenadiers' Day. - -Back at Metz the low-flying German airman who with his machine-gun had -been whipping up the panic of the men who had fled was shot down. He was -a young officer of the fearless angry type, terribly mortified at being -taken prisoner. He was put in a cage by himself till one of our runaways -came into the courtyard and began to strike a Charlie Chaplin pose, and -the officer in charge lost his patience and thrust him in with the -German. The German was striding up and down like a lion or tiger, and -the sudden depression of the erstwhile Charlie Chaplin gave to the -latter the gait of an Androcles thrown to a wild beast to be destroyed. - -Later in the day German prisoners began to flow along the road from -Gouzeaucourt to Metz in considerable numbers. What was the astonishment -of the "Jerries" to find when they were put into the barbed-wire -enclosures that their neighbours, also enclosed, were British and not -German, and to see the mixed crowd of Old Bills, Labour-men, -artillerymen, infantry, engineers, and even padres and officers mixed -with men. Presently however these were marched out of the cages and -lined up in miscellaneous squads derived from varying units with no -distinction of rank. Rifles were put into their hands and an attempt was -made to use them as a reserve defence in the trenches outside Metz. This -however proved impossible. The disease of panic had gripped their minds, -and at the idea of being sent to fight once more many threw their rifles -down. - -Up in the lines there were many comical scenes and disputes. The men -made themselves at home in the abandoned dug-outs which they found, and -where the dinner had been left cooking they finished it and ate it. -Drummers and pipers found superb quarters, and such original owners as -turned up were much annoyed. Disputes were settled by neutral soldiers -as a rule and went in favour of those who had not lost guns or abandoned -their posts. - -Where the railway intersects the Gouzeaucourt-Cambrai road was a -wonderful supply train, better than any golden wreck in desert-island -story. This was stacked with every imaginable kind of food. The Germans -had been through it, but had devoted their attention almost exclusively -to the letters and the despatch-bags. They had taken away a few tit-bits -but what was left sufficed the Guards for days. The transport was warned -not to send up their rations for three days but to send up limbers -instead to cart the food. At the disposal of the victors were also a -number of abandoned motor-cars. There is a lively impression of a -Sergeant-major going to and fro in a Ford car to this wonderful train. -Authorities asked afterwards who had pillaged the train--the culprits -ought to be brought to justice. But those in charge of that section of -the line felt that the action was possibly excusable under the -circumstances. Had they condemned it they had condemned themselves. The -following lines by an unknown author appeared some months after the -incident at Gouzeaucourt and men in the ranks copied it into their -notebooks and diaries. - - The Guards' Division were out to rest - They wanted it; - They'd "popped it"--"as on parade." - (What a jest!) - Then they'd held the line and had done their best - And were out. - - Twenty-four hours had scarcely passed; - They were resting. - When an orderly--bearing a message fast-- - "The Germans have broken through at last, - You're wanted." - - And wanted they were--without a doubt-- - At Gouzeaucourt. - The Huns had turned a lot of us out-- - (A lot of us, mind you--supposed to be stout) - "Help wanted!" - - Weary and footsore and stiff with cold-- - Weren't shirking, - The Guards' Division, demeanour bold, - With drummers playing (so I'm told) - Went at 'em. - - Said an A.P.M. as they marched along-- - "Stand back there!" - Get out of the way, you funking throng, - They'll put to rights what you've done wrong, - THE GUARDS DIVISION. - (And they did.) - -After Gouzeaucourt it was slowly borne in upon the military mind that -the "initiative," as it is called, had passed to the enemy, and that the -role of attack would not be ours for a while. There was a great -disparity between the forward mind and the rear mind. The forward mind -registering all the buffets and "sticking it" was getting very sick of -the war. The rear mind, making plenty of profit, playing men across the -map like chess pieces, preserved all its zest. The rear mind had great -patience and little imagination. It dreamed of a year, be it 1919 or -1920 or 1921, when America would be affording her maximum strength. -America had to be played into the war. She had started late, and it -would take years to commit her fully and make her spend according to her -means. The Tommy and the poilu would hold on till then. The Hun, as the -red hats loved to call the foe, would also play the game. 1918 was never -intended as the final year of the war--as far as the rear mind was -concerned, even though the men of fifty be called up and drilled with -youths of eighteen. Fortunately for us all, the Germans had decided to -win or lose and put all things to the test that year. Theirs had been -the supreme crime of starting the war, but let us acknowledge that they -at least had the grace at last to "hands up" when they saw their game -was lost and did not keep us at it for five years more. Germany at least -saved us at last from what may be called the blood lust of the rear. - -March 21st came with its never-to-be-forgotten bid for all or nothing, -with the Kaiser in command and all Germany on the march. The largest -numbers of men involved and the broadest front of action in the war. -"_Nach Paris_" was the cry--"Paris, Paris," the exultant yell of the -Goth bearing down upon the new Rome. - -On the 19th and 20th there were suspicions that something new was in -preparation on the German side. "From Headquarters to Headquarters," as -one officer puts it, "throbbed the order to man the battle-stations." -The night of the 20th was of intense darkness, and the watchful sentries -at their posts stared into a deep and silent curtain of fog. The vague -light that comes before dawn revealed only the mist. - -Then suddenly on a mighty breadth of line spoke the guns, came the swift -chasing shells through the sky, and the chorus of their sighs and their -cat-calls and yells and the hubbub of disruption in their explosion. -Trench mortars of all calibres and field-guns had been brought up to -closest range under cover of mist and darkness, and pounded into all -our trenches thick and warm with khaki and live flesh and blood, and -from behind the field-guns, but not far behind, in serried ranks spoke -the heavy guns, the Russian heavies, the Italian heavies, the grand -Austrian heavies, heaving death and destruction in the paths of retreat. -Accommodated with the heavies in fiendish fraternal task were the light -guns in vast numbers which flung the gas-bombs in tens of thousands to -the spots where of a certainty there must be congestion of traffic in -the British rear. It was ten minutes to five in the morning of the 21st -March--_der Tag_ had come, the hour of German fate had struck. - -Our guns replied at once in mighty salvos from accustomed points on the -horizon, but also many hitherto silent guns and batteries spoke for the -first time. A steady and perhaps unimaginative confidence was expressed -by our artillery, but it was quickly realised that we were out-gunned -and out-manned. Our battery positions were soon drenched with mustard -gas. The enemy firing was remarkably accurate and scored direct hits on -many headquarters, billets, and ammunition dumps which had never been -assailed before. The roads all received a great deal of attention and at -many vital points deep craters threatened to hold up traffic for hours. - -Daylight streamed through the mist. The guardians of the line with -strained nerves and brain stood on the alert expecting grey Fritz -momentarily to emerge from the mist with lowering brows and bayonet at -the port. Our machine-guns chattered at the unknown, and meanwhile the -enemy wire-cutters were at work clearing the way. It was not until -half-past nine that the anonymous artillery gave way to the deadly -personality of the foe. On the same lavish scale as that in which the -guns were firing, stick-bombs showered into the front lines, exploding -with their deafening and would-be-terrifying concussion of high -explosive. The enemy soldiers got rid of all the bombs they had right -away, and then very soon they were themselves to be seen. Tommy faced -forward. But Fritz, though he came steadily across no-man's land -offering an easy target, came also from the flanks and was soon to be -seen in the rear. British troops were massed here and there and posted -in clusters of defence, but the enemy with his vastly extended waves -broke through at the thin places and the empty places. The alarm went to -the flanks and the rear, but the runners found their various -headquarters and destinations full of the men in grey. Surrenders were -rapid on all hands. It was a puzzle what had happened. Brave units -fought it out against fearful odds. Some reserve battalions led by their -Colonels rushed in to counter-attack, and the Colonels fell and the -battalions fell. Other reserve battalions received orders to retire and -they retired. Others received no orders of any kind and remained where -they were and were overtaken. All day of the 21st and all night long our -lines were confusion worse confounded. On the 22nd there were Generals -in the fray encouraging the defence in person and trying to re-establish -lost contact right and left. But towards nightfall the last lines were -over-run and the enemy was through. - -The British menace was lifted from St. Quentin and Cambrai, from La Fere -and Laon. The enemy plunged for Arras, Peronne and Ham, and for the -far-flung hope of Albert, Doullens, Amiens, Compiègne. They rolled our -legions back, they set Divisions marching, fleeing; they captured -front-line men in tens of thousands, captured second-line men in tens of -thousands, captured artillerymen, captured their guns, captured the Old -Bills and Charlie Chaplins a-mending the roads, captured Red-cross men, -captured Chinamen, captured the Y.M.C.A., captured an infinite array of -stores and shells. If they were doubtful of themselves at first, their -faith soon lit up, as how could it fail to light. The banner of a -victorious end of the war and a crown of all German privations and -sufferings was raised. "I heard nothing more dreadful in the war," said -an English captain, "than the yell of the German cheers as their first -men entered Ham and they knew they had broken the line and had us -running. _Paris_, _Paris_ was the watchword, and many a Teutonic -soldier mortally wounded in the moment of victory, sank joyfully to the -rest of death in the belief that the Vaterland and the Kaiser were -winning through at last." - -And the embattled hosts swept onward toward Amiens, where at last the -onrush was stabilised. A greater victory had been won than the German -dreamed of when he planned. The offensive paused at last as it must, but -a staggering blow had been dealt at the forces of George the Fifth. The -King was down, and even if he were not counted out this time it was -doubtful if he could survive many such rounds if the German could repeat -such blows. - -What a time that was for England! The war staff tried to keep the -consternation to themselves but it could hardly be done. The whole -nation trembled with anxiety and apprehension. In France, as we now -know, screened from public view, the leaders of France and England met -in a grave mood. There was Milner and Haig and Foch and Clemenceau. -Haig, with a terribly pallid and drawn face looked as if he had not -slept for three nights. Foch was nervous and excitable, and carried in -his hand a small wooden wand on the knob of which was carved a poilu's -head. - -"I will do my best," said Haig pathetically, "to stop them before -Amiens," and it seemed he doubted whether it could be done. - -"We can always stop the Boche," said Foch, "we must stop him where he -is, not at Amiens." - -"But how?" - -"Well, I could do it," said Foch. "Seal up the centre. The Boche has -broken through the British and the French armies. His forces are pushing -against the wings of folding-doors; each door gives a little, making a -gap between, and through the gap the enemy is pouring. Seal up the gap, -seal it up!" - -There was only one way of sealing it up, and that was by uniting French -and British forces under one single commander. Lord Milner saw it. He -started up and pointed dramatically with his finger to Foch standing -there with his wooden wand, and he cried out: - -"There is the man." - -Haig, endowed by God and nature with a fine character, at once came -forward and agreed. No littleness stood in his way at that moment of -destiny. Foch was the man, let Foch take the supreme command. Foch took -it and poured French troops to our aid and stopped the tide and saved -the great city, the railway-key of Calais and of Paris. - -The great German effort had resulted first in German victory, then in a -dramatic change in the leadership of the war. Doubtless the German took -little stock of Foch. It seemed of good augury to our foe that the enemy -should have been forced to make a change in command. Changes of the -kind are seldom good in the midst of a strenuous campaign. But the sway -of Foch nevertheless gave a new faith to the whole army of the Allies. -The famous S.O.S. was sent to Wilson: _We have our backs to the wall but -send your army quickly or we perish_. And Wilson speeded up the -transport of his army in a marvellous way. He also saved us. - -Amiens, whose fate was in the balance for so many days, became baptised -as a shrine of the war as the enemy long-range guns sent to it fire and -death unintermittently. - -What new fields and cities the enemy had opened for destruction! Had the -Germans stayed before the city, the Cathedral of St. Firmin might have -become as remarkable a ruin as the shrine of St. Vaast. St. Firmin is -the patron saint of Amiens and is supposed to hold the city in his -protection, and the pious of Amiens prayed to St. Firmin and to God in -March 1918 as never before. That their prayers availed whereas other -cities had fallen despite all prayer is not a fact on which to lay much -stress. But it was just six months to the festival of St. Firmin, and -ere that happy day came round the dreadful menacing demon had fled far -from their walls. - -Two years later behold the procession of the relics of St. Firmin at -Amiens. The Church parades in praise and mediæval glory--cherubic boys -in crimson and white lace, young tonsured monks with health and life -throbbing from their close-cropped skulls, aged ecclesiastics with -Latinised faces, beautiful youths carrying emblems and banners, and then -supported on either hand by wise and reverend fathers comes the Bishop, -crowned with a gilded mitre crimson within and golden without, and -streaming with two golden streamers hanging behind. He bears his golden -crook, and before his arrested step and hand held up in blessing the -people sway like reeds when the wind which bloweth where it listeth -passes over them. From his uplifted hand and his arrested pose there -flung out mysterious power. You felt it; it was the blessing of the -Church imparted with all the consciousness of true succession even from -Peter and from Christ. - -So they bear what is left of the memory and the dust of St. Firmin, -nodding as they go, looking like an ecclesiastical picture on a vast -canvas, and singing to their measured steps--_Salve, Salve_. - -The second round of 1918 was fought on the Lys when the Germans 'twixt -Ypres on the north and Bethune in the south plunged towards Hazebrouck -and St. Omer. Bailleul and Merville fell, the eminence of Kemmel was -taken and Locre, and it seemed likely that the enemy would do with the -sanctuary of Ypres what he had done with that of Albert. - -The smashed centre of Bethune and the wilderness of its Grande Place -testifies to the violence of the onset, and Hazebrouck still bears the -marks of a great trembling and nervous shock. Hazebrouck had its three -days of anguish when all its people fled, and the town, like a victim in -a dungeon, awaited the coming of the persecutor. The cross-roads at -Vieux Berquin are almost as sinister in the after-the-war light as they -were then, and in all the waste fields which ran with destiny and khaki -that April the rusty wire still lies in tangles. Rain streams on the -choked cemeteries once but sparse with graves, now full and overflowing -with the dead and their crosses. But you seek in vain for hundreds and -thousands of defenders, names of V.C.'s, names of the brave -undecorated--all lost now in the unknown, the plenitude of unknown -soldiers. - -The German won his second round, though not too well, not shaping very -well. There were hammer-blows, but not the dreadful death-dealing weight -of the March fighting. French troops had been hurried to Belgium by -Foch, and once more they stopped the rot and possibly saved our now -rather nervy army. Certainly the enemy was now having matters his own -way. But Arras fortunately held, and that was our centre of defence. All -expected that the next attack would be upon the city, an attempt at -encirclement from the north and from the south. A wet spring wore on to -early summer and all the army waited. - -The third attack was of an entirely unexpected kind, being an almost -overwhelming blow at France and France alone--an attempt to put her -entirely out of gear and make it impossible for Foch to send more troops -to help the British army, an attempt to destroy the spirit and the -mobility of the army of France. The enemy advanced on a front broader -even than that of March 21st, and found an even thinner, weaker line of -defenders. Once more Germany was able to do even more than she dreamed, -and plunged towards Paris, making the sky drone and tremble with the -ominous thunder of her approaching guns. - -As we all know now the enemy went too far, and had not the men to man -his greatly extended lines or the labour to reorganise the new rear. He -had spent his energy too lavishly, and Foch had all that was necessary, -the one extra punch which sent the German reeling even in the moment -which should have held his greatest pride. The fourth round was won by -Foch and the Americans. The fifth by the British when they rolled the -foe back from Amiens. After that Fritz was a lost man and floundered -backward homeward, playing only for time, and only on his defensive, -with all the triumph gone, hope gone, faith gone, and only punishment -and humiliation ahead of him. In but a short while after the most -terrible defeats it could be said that the Allies had won the war. - -The land o'er which the great advance was made is quiet enough now. To -the towns and cities of the back areas the circus is coming for the -first time since the war. After the leaping from trapeze to trapeze in -mid-air, after the walking the tight rope, and the facing wild beasts in -their cages, and other feats of daring, the clowns come tumbling into -the arena. So it is also in life. There is one all in Turkey-red riding -backward on an ass, telling all and sundry how much more clever he is -than the genuine heroes they have been clapping. He gains in the long -run more applause than the tight-rope dancer. Then two funny Columbines -with air-blown bladders pretend to fight and whack at one another with -resounding boshes, clumps and raps, laying one another out, panting for -breath, exhausting themselves, almost expiring, and yet weakly hitting -out with their quaint weapons. And the populace forgets the thrill of -the spectacle of the man in the lions' cage making wild beasts jump -through hoops of fire. The clowns are to its taste. The scene-shifters -are quietly preparing the arena for the next heroic item--"A Roman -spectacle when the gladiators meet"--and the clowns divert public -attention from the carpentering of such a show until all is ready for -the heroes to come out. A fourth clown all the while strikes heroic -attitudes and mimics the after-the-war celebrities with apt -buffoonery--now he is Wilson with the fourteen points, now he is -D'Annunzio in mock heroic pose saying "J'y suis, j'y reste," now Lloyd -George making the Germans pay by letting the Germans off paying. The -malice of the buffoons provokes great mirth and takes the attention of -the crowd so well that the heroes are almost forgotten, Tom Wildwest -glowering from one of the exits and handling his rope and running noose -as if he'd like to lasso the whole bunch of clowns and pull them out of -the arena and the public gaze. - -In the summer of 1918 there was a waiting time. The enemy was held and -his utter defeat was manifest, but Time paused and the denouement -paused. The French and Americans carried on. The British reorganised. -The Germans began the knight's tour of the board with the right move -first. The British army was bored with the war and looked homeward. -Special wires conveyed the Derby result and the verdict of the -Pemberton-Billing case. Pemberton-Billing became a great hero of the -rank and file. The book of the 47,000 names of people who could be -blackmailed was a popular idea--such is the readiness to believe evil. - -At a battalion Sports near Saulty the Duke of Connaught watched the -battalion clowns arrange a race for the tiniest tots of the French -village. One clown had printed on his back "Breezy Bacchus" and the -other "One of the 47,000," which was thought a most amusing and -up-to-date cognomen. "One of the 47,000" won the obstacle race by and -by. He had won the obstacle race each annual Sports of his battalion, an -unwounded Tipperary man who had come right through, not only the hazards -of so many races, but of the great race itself. Fate however claimed him -at last when the war was nearly over, and a lone cringing gas shell -sneaking through the air came and took his leg off. The French -villagers, whose children he had guided in the baby race, shrugged their -shoulders and had nothing to say. - -The war-sun which was now setting did not sink in a grey haze or in mere -cloud, but in blood. To take the final victory-march of even one -Division, from Arras to Maubeuge--is it not marked by fresh graves all -the way? The old and the new laid down their lives prodigally. - -There is an extra sorrow for their death now because the pathos of being -so near to deliverance and yet missing it was not known then. Though the -German was beaten the war might last for years. A common gag used to -be-- - -"Heard the news?" - -"What's that? The war over?" - -"All over bar the shouting." - -But it was ironical, and there were few who saw the faint gleam of the -new hope which came with the German retreat. - -The Army did not know when it began its advance that the familiar ruins -of old villages were being left behind for good, that Berles au Bois -with its growing graveyard and ruined church was placed finally behind, -Monchy, Blairville, Hamelincourt, St. Leger, Bullecourt, Ecoust, behind -for ever, that Albert, Maricourt, Bapaume, re-conquered Peronne, were -all permanently held and soon to be left far in obscurity in the rear. -It is strange to come back over this track again and see the site of -hideous and monstrous latrines now overgrown with rankest weeds, to see -the ruined barns all re-roofed, to see the dank acre into which, wrapped -in the flag, your comrades were lowered down, to see what was left of -the village church of Berles now brought flat because as it stood it was -a menace, to see the place where but for the grace of God you might -yourself be lying with a cross above your head, to see Monchy lifting -itself with great difficulty from its sunken blocks of stone, to listen -to the stillness and deadness of old lifeless ruins, to cross the -stubble fields to Adinfer and hear the petrol plough methodically -scouring the old lines, to approach once more the dreadfulness of -Ayette. - -The villagers have come back to the craters of death. There is an -estaminet where was nothing before; there are salvage-made huts with -"baby-elephant" roofs built o'er spots where for days lay the dead in a -torture of wire. A family is in the estaminet, it was divided into five -parts by the war--five members of the family each in a different place -and none of them in touch with any other, each believing the other four -dead, two in different parts of Germany, one in Paris, one in Belgium, -one in the Pyrenees. They are poor people, touched by their suffering to -tenderness and generosity, and when there comes to them one who served -as a soldier in the war they spread their best before him and do not -want to take money for it--wonderful for France. But the people who have -suffered are the best people there as elsewhere. - -At Ablainzville the new brick cabins grow into being amid the high -seared masts of her dead trees. At sunset the hard-working peasants are -still in the fields. They have heaped old iron and wire on to the roads, -and filled up the shell-holes and burned the weeds and broken the -intractable hard moorland with tractor-drawn ploughs. They have riven -the sturdy roots of the docks and the reeds, they have driven St. John's -wort and rocket and willow-herb from the grain-field, turning up the -tramped-down battered earth in huge slabs and chunks. The league of -death which goes over the brow of the hill, that old no-man's land which -the machine-guns swept is now a great black upturned drive of ploughing -in which alight thousands of crows, all extruding from the earth and -discussing what they find, talking and grabbing, fluttering and flying. -Sodden green equipment has been ploughed into the earth and still lies -half exposed, and helmets like little coal-buckets disturb here and -there the even surface of the land. It is heavy going, and your boots -want to lift tons of mother earth, but you struggle on with eyes -furtively engaged in "spotting" here a shell and there a bomb. Next year -the corn will cover up all our sins. - -The peasants complain that the Government gives them nothing. The -Germans replaced some of the cattle they stole, but how about the French -who commandeered their horses at the beginning of the war and in -exchange gave them a merely nominal sum. In the stricken areas how few -are the horses now! The conservative peasant who does not like changing -his agricultural habits has been forced to the use of the petrol engine. -His chief motive force is the old lorry engine. But of course he does -more with that than he did with the horse, and when one has walked right -across the zone of desolation and come to the little-touched farms on -the other side one cannot but feel that the peasants working their -horses there are not getting on so quickly as the deprived ones with -their motors. - -Many of the refugees when they came back started at an absolute zero. -Their plight would have driven a less stubborn people to despair, but -they set-to and worked, and can already show a dumbfounding progress. -Theirs is a hard life without luxury and with little food, but with the -capital of their toiling hands they are making wealth for themselves and -France once more. The people of the war-lands will recover quicker than -their Governments, and whilst with every year the plight of the national -exchequer gets worse the plight of the domestic exchequer will improve. -There are too many parasites feeding on the Governments, and the latter -have too many obligations in the matter of paying interest on loan. All -France is placarded with appeals to French people to take up -State-loans--the object of such loans being to get money to pay the -interest on past loans. French people cannot be persuaded to pay onerous -taxes. The Germans, without great commercial activity, cannot make the -French deficit good, and we see the State sliding slowly but steadily -downward like a loosened avalanche toward a precipice. But in the light -of the French peasants' steady unremitting toil one need have little -fear for the nation itself. It will get rid of this type of Government -and the mountains of debt when the time comes. Long after sunset, in the -after-murk of night, sound the droning of the petrol-ploughs on the old -battlefields, and the clatter of hammer and plane in the stricken -villages.--Vive la France! - - * * * * * - -It is twenty miles to Cambrai by the seemingly Druidical remains of -Lagnicourt and the life-clusters of Queant, Pronville, Moeuvres, -Fontaine. Cambrai is resurgent. No one is in mourning except those -widows whom black suits. The merry-go-rounds and the razzle-dazzle with -all manner of toy-booths and gipsy-shows occupy the market-place on -which grandiose buildings with broken windows stare. In the town gardens -is a statue without a head, and on its base is engraved--"_Son invention -fut un bienfait pour son pays_." - -He probably made some improvement in the manufacture of silk, but an -ironical British soldier has written in English beneath--_He invented -the gun stock_. - -On the way out from Cambrai the towns of Boussieres and St. Hilaire look -as if no war had been, and the trains are all running on the road to -Solesmes. Where men stalked their foes along the railway embankment, -where men won military medals and D.C.M.s and one the V.C. all is -perfect prose. Where so many died and risked their lives a -life-insurance office has reopened. All slumbers on the road to Le -Quesnoy and Bavai. You have passed through the war area and come to the -unscarred green of innocent fields and the undesolated symmetry of -unscathed woods. Peasants lead the horses in the plough, and cows in -plenty graze in sun-steeped pastures. - -It is November 10th and the same strong highway on which two years ago -the army marched to the end of the war. At the end of a fair fine -afternoon the sun is sinking slowly but must be in eclipse ere it set. -Peasants are sitting on heaps of stones at La Longueville looking -westward. In the smoky capitals of Europe nothing will be seen, but -something is due to happen if the sky keeps clear and will be visible at -the last outposts of the war. - -From the grandeur of the setting sun pale shadows are cast of posts and -cows and houses and railings and heaps of stones. Unexpectedly they -faint away as something steals upon the splendour of the radiant disc -and stops the brightness of the rays. Myriads of wisps of cloud, like -tiny hands, assist at the eclipse, laying the sun to rest in a dreadful -bloody bath, agonising and bleeding and growing less and going down, -with evil triumphing over good. Out, brief candle! Yes, it is out--it is -night. The last day of the war is done--tomorrow Armistice. The reaper -has put up his scythe--the angel of death has gone by. A bitter wind -passes swiftly along the high-road, just touching you, just making you -aware that something invisible and unkind has passed you, having a going -and a coming which is not yours. - -So in a mood which has changed you walk the last miles of the war--to -the fortress of Maubeuge. Here is gloomy smoky Douzies, and there, yes -at that very spot, is the place where the Brigade messenger was accosted -and you read his message--_Hostilities will cease as from eleven -o'clock_. Yonder the factory sheds where you heard the first lecture on -demobilisation, where you sang "Take me back to dear old Blighty!" with -such a will, and a free issue of rum punch was made to all. There the -erstwhile deserted steel works which men said would be years before they -worked again. The great stacks smoke, belying the prophecy, and on the -night wind comes the clangour of tireless machinery working for France, -working for Peace. On the railway all the twisted rails are gone, the -lines gleam with the brightness of train-wheels and go straight to -Maubeuge. Upon the roadway lie the disjecta membra of an armoured train -marked Lot 1 and Lot 2 and likely to remain till time itself remove -them. - -You descend into the trough where the moat goes round the fortress, and -by a wooden bridge enter Maubeuge, the city of the end of the war, one -of the cities where the war ended. At Maubeuge then let us be silent -with those who are silent whilst at Westminster the Unknown is buried -and the Cenotaph unveiled and at Paris the Arc de Triomphe receives its -guest. - -November the eleventh in the morning--there is Mass in the Cathedral for -the _poilu inconnu_, the anonymous soldier of France, and about an empty -coffin swathed with the tricolour are ten high candles. The sacrifice is -sanctified with holy water and incense. The divine elements are raised -from the Altar. The throngs of the pious all cross themselves. Comes the -alarm crash of the Sanctus thrice repeated, the mumbo-jumbo of -fast-gabbled Latin, the exultant organ. You stand wedged in by a pillar, -the only Englishman there now, and as your eye ranges o'er the scene it -reads on the Cathedral wall the inscription which is nearest. _N'oublie -pas pecheur endurci que c'est pour la troisième fois que Jesus est -tombé!_ "Forget not, hardened sinner, that it is now for the third time -that Jesus has fallen," suggestive and unforgettable monition given in -the half-light of the Cathedral. - -A Te Deum which does not rend the sky nor the Cathedral roof passes -sweetly o'er our heads, and the congregation with its wreaths and flags -files out to march with bands to the cemeteries of Maubeuge. It is still -not eleven by the clock. But it will be eleven in the Place des Casernes -where the Guards were drawn up on parade that November morning. The -barrack square then! - -Behold it dirty and drab. A squad in sabots is being detailed by a -corporal for fatigue duty. They answer their names, their old tunics are -all undone, they shuffle across the square. But it is eleven. Silence -then. Let us be silent with all who are silent. - - - - -_EPILOGUE_ - - -The afternoon train speeds from Maubeuge to Paris. "Am I right for -Paris?" you ask, and a Frenchman replies facetiously "Nach Paris, nach -Paris." In a few hours you roll up the whole Western front. You traverse -infinite graveyards and scenes of desolation like an arrow of thought, -and alight where the German soldiers wished to be. The train has come -from Berlin: it has passed through Cologne and the zone held by the -occupying army. It roars forward to St. Quentin, Noyon, Compiègne, like -the symbol of the March offensive. But in all the little shattered towns -and villages joy-flags are flying and the bands are playing. It is -to-day a fête of French victory and French peace. Besides being -Armistice Day it is the Cinquantenaire of the Republic, the day of the -celebration of the first fifty years of the present Republic of France, -and Paris will be alight from end to end to-night with fairy lights. -Paris and France will render homage to the Republic which brought -victory. In 1870 under the fatal Government of Napoleon the Third the -hated German conquered France. Then the Napoleons fell and Gambetta made -possible "la revanche du Droit." It could hardly have been predicted -that within fifty years the stricken unstable France of 1870 would lay -the Prussian low. The victory over the Germans has been an enormous -confirmation of the success of the "Third Republic" and has shed a glory -on the line of Presidents from Thiers to Millerand which is perhaps not -entirely appreciated in other countries. The Republic celebrating its -fiftieth birthday on November 11th sunned itself in as much glory as the -Army or the Nation. It is true that "un soldat sans nom, representant la -foule heroique des poilus, repose dans l'Arc de Triomphe"--a nameless -soldier representing the heroic crowd who fought is buried now in the -Arc de Triomphe--but it is also true that the heart of Gambetta carried -in a chariot accompanied the hearse of the unknown soldier, and whilst -the soldier was buried in the first storey of the triumphal arch the -heart of Gambetta was placed in the Pantheon itself. All must redound to -the greatness of France and of the Republic. - -As you step from the train at Paris you realise that everyone is out for -gaiety even before the gaiety has commenced. The Parisians are holding -on to one another, humming and singing baby-song, making believe to -stumble as they walk. Gone are the care and solemnity of the weekday -Paris crowd. A heaviness has been shed, everyone feels light as if there -was quicksilver in his heels. Evening is just turning to night and all -houses are giving forth their people, and they stream to the centre in -ever increasing crowds--all gay, all light-hearted, all without a -thought of ever coming home. The city is cleverly decorated with massed -flags, arcades of flags, but without those strings of bunting which so -often look like coloured washing hanging out to dry. The illuminations -are to be most elaborate. Hundreds of thousands of francs are being -spent in coloured light effects. There will be a torchlight procession, -massed bands, and street dancing till morning. Long lines of men and -women holding on to one another plunge through the crowds, and scream, -and break, and join again. Everyone is wearing a little flag of the -Republic. Men and women are to be seen carrying little red paper -lanterns on bamboo sticks. Every restaurant and café is crammed and -jammed with people with flushed faces. The waiters, having lost control, -bring you dishes you have not ordered, but you graciously accept them -faute de mieux. Hawkers keep bellowing the last editions of the papers, -especially of _L'intransigeant_, which says that the meaning of the -festivity is that the Allies are agreed to force Germany to fulfil the -treaty to the letter. Night meanwhile has become night with no stars -above and all the stars below. - -The crowds have become immense. If you are at the Place de la Concorde -where part of the torchlight procession is forming up and men are -playing on the crowd with ghastly searchlights, then you are likely to -remain at the Place de la Concorde. It will take you two hours to -struggle to the Place de l'Opera. On the Underground railway some -stations are blocked, and no one can get either in or out--notably Hotel -de Ville. Out at the Arc de Triomphe there is a cavalry guard with drawn -sabres. The Arc very fittingly has no illumination, but its dark mass -catches the light beams from the buildings around. No one knows what is -going to happen here, all the little folk stand on tip-toe and strain -their eyes and yet see nought. Lots of girls are mounted on men's -shoulders with legs round men's necks and their ankles grasped in male -hands, and they certainly see the nothing which is to be seen. All are -laughing, all are ready to sing and to roll in gaiety. Presently some -statesmen in carriages pass out between lines of cavalrymen; big Bertha, -the great gun, follows them and then an empty Roman chariot and the -hearse on which the _poilu inconnu_ was carried. But even when these -pass the crowd remains riveted to the place where the unknown soldier -reposes--constantly expecting some marvel of the night to start from -there. - -Similar crowds hold the Place Vendome where Napoleon stands on his -column of stone, the St. Simon of Paris. This statue also commemorates a -national victory over Germany, though it elevates one soldier so high. -The design of the frieze at the foot of the column is one of -accoutrements and weapons and adornments and uniforms and guns, but -without a limb or a face anywhere, the meaning being that one man wore -all the glory. Here is exhibited not much joy in the Republic but a -whole series of advertisement for French State loans. On the whole, the -Cinquantenaire of the Republic may be a good advertisement for -Government Stock. All manner of provincials have come to Paris for this -day, and there is no doubt they are dazzled by the grandeur of France. - -At the Palais Royal there is one of the most radiant designs in coloured -lights. The whole front of the place is covered with a picture of light -which reminds one of the advertisements of the great white way between -40th and 50th Street, New York. Crimson and emerald and gold tell the -glory of the fifty years of the Republic, the numbers 1870 and 1920 -being festooned with dazzling light, and the names of all the Presidents -in one great row--Thiers, MacMahon ... to Deschanel and Millerand--given -the prominence of a dynasty. On all the sidewalks down below are trees -of naked flames, gas-pipes with branches coming up out of the pavement -and instead of leaves little jets of twinkling flame at which the crowd -lights its cigarettes. The entrances to the grand avenues are surmounted -by fantastic arches of most gorgeous illuminated colouring. In front of -all this stand men and women thoroughly epaté, hypnotised by it, with -mouths open and eyes dilated. - -"Oh but it's wonderful!" "I cannot take my eyes off it, can you?" "Look, -neighbour, just look at that, eh!" "Ah but look!" "What splendour!" -"What an effect!" And there is audible all the while a continuous -collective low murmur of approbation and satisfaction. - -You walk slowly along the Avenue de l'Opera. There are uninterrupted -rows of footlights along the bases of first and second storeys throwing -a lurid glamour on solemn and stately tricolours. So it is all the way -to the Opera House, and happy crowds, fluttering and chattering, now -breaking into an infection of expectancy when all push forward to see -some imagined interest somewhere, and then lurching back in gay -disillusion and laughter. The lofty buildings like monuments to the -goddess of Trade look down on diminutive people with bright faces and -round heads, and the stone itself of Paris seems indulgent. - -Away however in those strange fields covered with darkness at this -midnight hour, unilluminated, lie the silent ones, crosses without -end--the signs of life laid down. France will not forget them and we -shall not forget. - -So let us leave this gaiety behind and take the midnight train for -Calais, for Dover, for London, for the Cenotaph, the Abbey, for new -life. It is a full train and pulls out soberly from the gay city, and -bears onward, onward to the little channel and the waiting boat which -ere the dawn shall face the wonderful white cliffs of Albion and home. - -The most enduring moment of Armistice Day will be the silence at eleven, -the moment of communion. In America in many cities work ceased at eleven -but every one was instructed to make the utmost noise possible. Thus a -year ago at New Orleans the writer of these lines listened to an -infernal din of train whistles, factory syrens, steam horns and hooters, -clashing church-bells, roaring Klaxon-horns, hammering of anvils, -squeaking of trumpets, and shouts of people. And the thought inevitably -came--the West does not understand. It did not suffer as we did and came -into a share in it all too late. Only the end of a small war can express -itself in noise; the end of such an one as this in Europe was silence. - -And a fitting monument of silence is the Cenotaph, the empty tomb. -England is very happy in the Cenotaph, much more happy than in the Edith -Cavell statue, which leaves out the last words of the kind nurse, does -not say "_Patriotism is not enough_," but writes "Brussels Dawn" -instead, making her a kindler of anger against a foe rather than a -salver of wounds. The impersonal cenotaph, without any Cross or weeping -Christ, or rampant lions, without even the pronoun "our" which some -wished to see upon it--"Our glorious dead," instead of "The glorious -dead," can stand for all who laid down their lives baptised or -unbaptised, white or coloured, friend or foe. For even Germans had to -die that Europe might be free. - -So in leaving the fields of the dead and the beginning and the end of -the war and Paris itself, you come naturally to the Cenotaph, the stone -which gathers to itself all the experience and all that was sacred in -the war--the altar at the summit of a thousand weary steps. It stands in -the midst of England's great street of Government, 'twixt Nelson and the -Abbey, and says to all who pass--"Go and do thou likewise." To all the -selfish, "_We were not selfish_;" to the clamorous, "_We are silent, yet -we speak_;" to the strident and ambitious, to the self-seekers and the -cynical, to those who live as though there had been no sacrifice, to -those who sneer at the ideal, "_We suffered and died that you might have -your life, that all might have more life; we suffered and died for the -good of the whole!_" - -When Millerand was elected President of France his supporters insisted -always that they had found a man whose public life would be worthy of -France _and of her dead_. France's ideal is that through the sacrifice -of her sons France should become "greater yet." Our men did not die that -England might become greater, but that Europe might be saved from -tyranny and greed, and it is for us and our public men to see that their -sacrifice shall never seem to grow barren. - -It will grow barren unless we who now live are ready to continue the -sacrifice. No good comes into the world but after struggle and pain. No -new life comes but through death, no common weal is gained without -giving and serving. Our common life must have a foundation of human -hearts, ready to give, ready to live, for England and for us all. - - It hath been said: "He liveth best who is always ready to die." - - It can be put in a new way: "He liveth best who is always ready - to put all upon the Altar." - - Humanity is well served when nations are ready to sacrifice - themselves for her good. - - She is worst served by the nations who still preserve the - tribal instinct to fight and destroy their neighbours. - - She is worst served by the nations who are enslaving other - nations. - - And that nation is most alive which has most people ready to - sacrifice themselves and their estate. - - That nation liveth worst which contains the most selfish. - - Of Christ it was written: He saved others; Himself he could not - save. But the selfish man saves himself first and then thinks - of others. - - The selfish man is quarrelsome and runs easily to law; he - exacts guarantees; he counts his costs; he heavily insures; he - holds what he does not want and is afraid of another getting - it. - - That nation liveth best whose men and women are freest for an - adventure. - - But worst whose men and women are most cautious. - - He is most happy who has run to the Altar and surrendered his - _all_ there to God and then found a will and a way in which to - live. - - For most, alas! there is no altar visible, no way to an altar. - They do not know what the Altar is nor what it is for. - - Business and war and hate and selfish desire have hidden it - from men's eyes. - - Only when the cloud lifts the Altar is disclosed, and men - commonly when they see it leave all that they have and run to - it and fling themselves before it in tears. - - It is the grand altar of humanity. The altar of _all_ on which - the _one_ sacrifices himself. - - It is the altar of the sacrifice of Christ. - - The Cross. - - The quartering of humanity--an altar in the midst of the - people. - - All education and literature and religious mission should be to - one end--that the way to the Altar may be kept clear. - - It is work to clear away all the obstructions and the fogs and - mists. - - Sweet singing, pious exhortation, the reading of books, love of - the dim religious light of churches--these should not be ends - in themselves. - - Humanity has its pious part which goes to church; but it does - not need the organisation of the pious. - - Humanity has its charitable part but it does not need the - organisation of the charitable. - - Humanity has its cultures but it does not stand in need of - "schools of thought" and "cults" and "intelligentsia," - - But humanity does need sacrifice upon the one great Altar, - every day and all days. - -The Cenotaph rising in our midst may be our altar. We may leave our -flowers there, the incense-smoke of burning hearts, but the flowers -should be our lives. The Cenotaph after all is only the visible sign of -the great invisible Cenotaph of humanity which stands in the midst of -the ages, an empty tomb in memory of all those who have gone before--of -those whose sacrifice _without ours_ is not perfect. - - * * * * * - -At Westminster Abbey they have buried the dead soldier among poets and -statesmen. They have dug up from France Tom, Dick, or Harry, one of us, -unnamed, unknown, who laughed and talked and marched and fired and -suffered in the war, one of the many who are always unknown. He did -guard duty no doubt in France. He is put on sentry again. Touching as it -is to have a soldier in the dim light of the Abbey where so many can -shed invisible tears, it had been better perhaps in a stern era to have -posted him at St. Stephen's, at the entry to Parliament, that he might -challenge in his silence all who enter there to stand for England-- - -"Who goes there?" - -"Friend." - -"Advance and be recognised!" - -"Pass, friend!" - -Proceed at your peril if you cannot meet the challenge of the dead! - - - - -PRINTED BY CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, LA BELLE SAUVAGE, LONDON, E.C.4 -F.100.121 - - - - - +-----------------------------------------------+ - | Transcriber's Note: | - | | - | Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the | - | original document have been preserved. | - | | - | = sign denotes bold type | - | | - | Typographical errors corrected in the text: | - | | - | Page 99 Algeerians changed to Algerians | - +-----------------------------------------------+ - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's The Challenge of the Dead, by Stephen Graham - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CHALLENGE OF THE DEAD *** - -***** This file should be named 40507-8.txt or 40507-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/5/0/40507/ - -Produced by Barbara Kosker and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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