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diff --git a/40394-h/40394-h.htm b/40394-h/40394-h.htm index 2a0f58d..8d6c20f 100644 --- a/40394-h/40394-h.htm +++ b/40394-h/40394-h.htm @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ <html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> <title> The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sketches from the Subject and Neighbour Lands of Venice, by Edward A. Freeman. @@ -158,46 +158,7 @@ table { </style> </head> <body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches from the Subject and Neighbour -Lands of Venice, by Edward A. Freeman - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Sketches from the Subject and Neighbour Lands of Venice - -Author: Edward A. Freeman - -Release Date: August 2, 2012 [EBook #40394] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEIGHBOUR LANDS OF VENICE *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40394 ***</div> <div class="tnbox"> <p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p> @@ -279,18 +240,18 @@ of Canterbury and his Biographers, &c.</p> <span class="b12">HISTORICAL ESSAYS</span>. <i>Second Series. Second Edition</i>, with additional Essays. 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i><br /> -<span class="smcap">Contents</span>:—Ancient Greece and Mediæval Italy—Mr. Gladstone's +<span class="smcap">Contents</span>:—Ancient Greece and Mediæval Italy—Mr. Gladstone's Homer and the Homeric Ages—The Historians of Athens—The Athenian Democracy—Alexander the Great—Greece during the Macedonian Period—Mommsen's History of Rome—Lucius -Cornelius Sulla—The Flavian Cæsars, &c.</p> +Cornelius Sulla—The Flavian Cæsars, &c.</p> <p class="hangingad"> <span class="b12">HISTORICAL ESSAYS</span>. <i>Third Series.</i> 8vo. 12<i>s.</i><br /> <span class="smcap">Contents</span>:—First Impressions of Rome—The Illyrian Emperors and their Land—Augusta Treverorum—The Goths at Ravenna—Race and Language—The Byzantine Empire—First Impressions -of Athens—Mediæval and Modern Greece—The Southern Slaves—Sicilian +of Athens—Mediæval and Modern Greece—The Southern Slaves—Sicilian Cycles—The Normans at Palermo.</p> <p class="hangingad"> @@ -582,7 +543,7 @@ our own tongue.</p> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> -<td><span class="smcap">Traü</span></td> +<td><span class="smcap">Traü</span></td> <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_175">175</a></td> </tr> @@ -689,11 +650,11 @@ our own tongue.</p> <td class="tdr"><a href="#i176">145</a></td> </tr> <tr> -<td><span class="smcap">Cathedral, Traü</span></td> +<td><span class="smcap">Cathedral, Traü</span></td> <td class="tdr"><a href="#i215">182</a></td> </tr> <tr> -<td><span class="smcap">Saint John Baptist, Traü</span></td> +<td><span class="smcap">Saint John Baptist, Traü</span></td> <td class="tdr"><a href="#i220">185</a></td> </tr> <tr> @@ -756,7 +717,7 @@ our own tongue.</p> <td class="tdr">385</td> </tr> <tr> -<td><p class="hanging">Korkyra held by Agathoklês</p></td> +<td><p class="hanging">Korkyra held by Agathoklês</p></td> <td class="tdr">300</td> </tr> <tr> @@ -785,7 +746,7 @@ Demetrios of Pharos</p></td> <td class="tdr">168</td> </tr> <tr> -<td><p class="hanging">First mention of Tragyrion (Traü)</p></td> +<td><p class="hanging">First mention of Tragyrion (Traü)</p></td> <td class="tdr">158</td> </tr> <tr> @@ -935,7 +896,7 @@ left to the Eastern Empire</p></td> <td class="tdr">1062</td> </tr> <tr> -<td><p class="hanging">Foundation of Saint Nicolas at Traü</p></td> +<td><p class="hanging">Foundation of Saint Nicolas at Traü</p></td> <td class="tdr">1064</td> </tr> <tr> @@ -998,7 +959,7 @@ on Sicily</p></td> <td class="tdr">1206</td> </tr> <tr> -<td><p class="hanging">Building of Traü cathedral</p></td> +<td><p class="hanging">Building of Traü cathedral</p></td> <td class="tdr">1215-1321</td> </tr> <tr> @@ -1114,7 +1075,7 @@ on Sicily</p></td> <td class="tdr">1419</td> </tr> <tr> -<td><p class="hanging">Traü annexed by Venice</p></td> +<td><p class="hanging">Traü annexed by Venice</p></td> <td class="tdr">1420</td> </tr> <tr> @@ -1246,7 +1207,7 @@ and Dalmatia, except Ragusa, occupied by Austria</p></td> <td class="tdr">1798</td> </tr> <tr> -<td><p class="hanging">Prevesa stormed by Ali of Jôannina</p></td> +<td><p class="hanging">Prevesa stormed by Ali of Jôannina</p></td> <td class="tdr">1798</td> </tr> <tr> @@ -1432,7 +1393,7 @@ that they were Slaves. The presence of a Slavonic speech in this region is a fruit of the same migration which made the land beyond Hadria Slavonic. But to hear the Slavonic and the Italian tongues side -by side is so familiar a phænomenon under modern +by side is so familiar a phænomenon under modern Austrian rule, that its appearance at Aquileia or Gorizia may with some minds seem to give the land a specially Austrian character, and may help to shut out the remembrance @@ -1523,7 +1484,7 @@ Vicenza, going back at least to the second century <span class="s05">B.C.</span>, must be allowed to be of a respectable age.</p> <p>That the chief cities of a district should date from -early mediæval, and not from Roman times, is a feature +early mediæval, and not from Roman times, is a feature which at once suggests analogies with our own island. Both in Venetia and in Britain we are struck with the prevalence of places which arose after the fall of the @@ -1576,8 +1537,8 @@ of relation and proportion, than a case of absolute birth and death. Cividale is still there, though it is but a poor representative of Forum Julii. Udine has taken its place. But Udine, though its importance -belongs wholly to mediæval times, was not strictly -a mediæval creation. It is just possible to prove +belongs wholly to mediæval times, was not strictly +a mediæval creation. It is just possible to prove the existence of <i>Vedinum</i> in Roman days, though it is only its existence which can be proved; it plays no part whatever in early history. The case @@ -1616,7 +1577,7 @@ Venetian history. Even in the eleventh century, the earliest authentic chronicler of Venice, that John whose work will be found in the seventh volume of Pertz, speaks with some significance, even when recording -events of the time of Charles the Great, of "quædam +events of the time of Charles the Great, of "quædam civitas non procul a Venetia, nomine Tarvisium." <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span> When strictly Italian history begins, Treviso runs @@ -1625,7 +1586,7 @@ takes its share in resistance to the imperial power, it falls into the hands of tyrants of the house of Romano and of the house of Scala. Along with Padua, it is the city which is fullest of memories of the terrible -Eccelinò. Won by the Republic in 1338 from its +Eccelinò. Won by the Republic in 1338 from its lord Mastino della Scala, the special strangeness of its fortunes begins. The modern House of Austria was already in being; but its Dukes had not yet grown into @@ -1665,7 +1626,7 @@ from which she ought never to have gone astray.</p> <p class="blockquot"> "Ducalis excellentia prudentissima, meditatione considerans proprium Venetorum esse mare colere, terramque postergare; hinc enim -divitiis et honoribus abundat, inde sæpe sibi proveniunt scandala et +divitiis et honoribus abundat, inde sæpe sibi proveniunt scandala et errores."</p> <p>But Leopold, he who fell at Sempach, had not the @@ -1690,12 +1651,12 @@ they became members of a free and united Italy.</p> <p class="p2">In the aspect of the city itself, the Roman Tarvisium has left but small signs of its former being. All that -we see is the Treviso of mediæval and later times. +we see is the Treviso of mediæval and later times. The walls, the bell-towers, the slenderer tower of the municipal palace, the arcaded streets, the houses too, though they are not rich in the more elaborate forms of Italian domestic art, have all the genuine character -of a mediæval Italian town. Not placed in any +of a mediæval Italian town. Not placed in any striking position, not a hill-city, not in any strictness a river-city, but a city of the plain looking towards the distant mountains—not adorned by any building @@ -1842,9 +1803,9 @@ of a large fluted column which in this same crypt serves the purpose of a well. The church above has been mercilessly Jesuited; yet, as it keeps more than one cupola, those cupolas give it a certain dignity; -the stamp of Constantinople and Venice, of Périgueux -and Angoulême, is hard wholly to wipe out. Otherwise -a few tombs and a fine piece of mediæval gilded +the stamp of Constantinople and Venice, of Périgueux +and Angoulême, is hard wholly to wipe out. Otherwise +a few tombs and a fine piece of mediæval gilded wood-carving are about all that the church of Treviso has to show. The great Dominican church has been more lucky. The guide-book of Gsel-fels, commonly @@ -1999,7 +1960,7 @@ traveller is always in a doubtful state of mind when he finds a place of interest neglected by his own countrymen. On the one hand he is personally relieved, as being set free from the gabble of English -tourists at <i>tables d'hôte</i> and the like. But how far ought +tourists at <i>tables d'hôte</i> and the like. But how far ought he to proclaim to the world the merits of the place which he has found out for himself? How can he draw the line, so as to lead travellers to come, without @@ -2017,12 +1978,12 @@ Italy in the modern sense of the name. We have seen that the existence of the place in Roman times under the name of Vedinum can be proved and no more. The importance and history of Udine, <i>Utinum</i>, -are wholly mediæval. It takes the place of Forum +are wholly mediæval. It takes the place of Forum Julii as the capital of Friuli the district which keeps the name which has passed away from the city. It is one of the eccentricities of nomenclature that the other Forum Julii in southern Gaul has kept its -name, but in the still more corrupted shape of <i>Fréjus</i>. +name, but in the still more corrupted shape of <i>Fréjus</i>. The new head of the Venetian borderland—Venetia in the older sense—went through the usual course of the neighbouring cities with one feature peculiar to @@ -2097,7 +2058,7 @@ the face of it, it may perhaps be taken as some traditional witness to the artificial nature of the mound. It would be dangerous to say anything more positively without minute knowledge both of the -geology and of the præ-historic antiquities of Venetia; +geology and of the præ-historic antiquities of Venetia; but analogy always suggests that such mounds are artificial, or at least largely improved by art. Anyhow there the mound is, an earthwork which, if @@ -2228,7 +2189,7 @@ Julii, and which is Cividale. Here he finds himself—a little to his amazement—in a living town, with walls and gates and towers, with streets and houses and churches, none of them certainly of the Julian -æra. The town is not very large; it is not a local +æra. The town is not very large; it is not a local capital like Udine; still it is a town, not a village among ruins and fragments like Aquileia and Salona. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span> @@ -2257,7 +2218,7 @@ and looks into the chief of them, a building of strange and mixed style, but not without a certain stateliness of general effect. He sees the <i>Via Cornelio Gallo</i>, which promises something, and the <i>Via del Tempio</i>, which -promises more. Visions of Nîmes, Vienne, and Pola +promises more. Visions of Nîmes, Vienne, and Pola <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span> rise before him; he follows the track, but he finds nothing in the least savouring of Jupiter or Diana, @@ -2348,8 +2309,8 @@ are less surprised than we otherwise might be to find that a large proportion of the signatures come from eastern Europe. Among them are a crowd of signatures from Bulgaria, headed by Michael their king. -It is for palæographers to judge of the date by the -writing. And palæographers say that, of the ancient +It is for palæographers to judge of the date by the +writing. And palæographers say that, of the ancient names, none are earlier than the end of the eighth century or later than the end of the tenth. Otherwise we might have been driven to see in this Michael @@ -2379,7 +2340,7 @@ the chiefest of them all.</p> to see on the site which once was Forum Julii. What is to be seen is perhaps not exactly of the kind which the traveller may have fancied in his dreams. He can -hardly have come expecting to find a stately mediæval +hardly have come expecting to find a stately mediæval or modern city. He may have come expecting to find the walls of a Roman city sheltering here and there either Roman fragments or modern cottages. He will @@ -2388,7 +2349,7 @@ natural position is far more striking than could have been looked for in the approach from Udine, and whose chief merit is that it shelters here and there, in corners where they have to be sought for, several -objects, neither Roman nor mediæval, but of the +objects, neither Roman nor mediæval, but of the darker, and therefore most instructive, period which lies between the two.</p> @@ -2401,7 +2362,7 @@ lies between the two.</p> <p>At Udine and at Cividale we are still in Italy in every sense which that name has borne since the -days of Augustus Cæsar. But the fact which may +days of Augustus Cæsar. But the fact which may have startled us at the last stage of our course, the fact that a Slavonic tongue is to be heard within the borders of both the old and the new Italian kingdom, @@ -2495,7 +2456,7 @@ Vienna.</p> <p>We have written the name <i>Gorizia</i>; but we have written it with fear and trembling. For we have now reached a city where we have three names to choose -from. Shall we say <i>Görz</i>, <i>Gorizia</i>, or <i>Gorici</i>? All +from. Shall we say <i>Görz</i>, <i>Gorizia</i>, or <i>Gorici</i>? All three names will be found carefully displayed side by side in public notices. One is tempted, by the analogy of a crowd of Slavonic names in other places, @@ -2507,7 +2468,7 @@ bow. In any case there is little doubt that on this spot of many names we have reached a place which, though Italian in geography, though for ages German in allegiance, was in truth Slavonic in origin. A -charter of Otto the Third speaks of "una villa quæ +charter of Otto the Third speaks of "una villa quæ Sclavonica lingua vocatur Gorizia." This is the earliest certain mention of the place. There is indeed a document which tells us how in the year 949 Bishop John @@ -2536,7 +2497,7 @@ That Count bore higher titles, and he does not fail to record them on the stone; but they are recorded in an almost incidental way. Letters boldly cut, letters which catch the eye at some distance, proclaim -that the work was done by <span class="smcap">LEOPOLDUS COMES GORITIÆ</span>. +that the work was done by <span class="smcap">LEOPOLDUS COMES GORITIÆ</span>. Go near, and you may literally read between the lines, in smaller letters and abbreviated words, that this Count Leopold happened to be also Emperor of the @@ -2547,7 +2508,7 @@ and built directly as Count of Gorizia, and he proclaimed himself primarily by his local title. In an inscription such things could be done; heraldry hardly admitted of any such ingenious devices. The bird of -Cæsar must bear the hereditary shield of the prince +Cæsar must bear the hereditary shield of the prince who has been chosen to the imperial office, and on that hereditary shield the bearings of the Gorizian county cannot displace those of duchies and kingdoms. @@ -2560,7 +2521,7 @@ the gateway deem him all one with his bastard likeness over the tobacco-shops. Some may even fail to see that, among the many hereditary bearings of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span> -elective Cæsar, the lion of the Austrian duchy keeps +elective Cæsar, the lion of the Austrian duchy keeps his proper place. That lion is so apt to pass out of sight, men are so ready to cry "Austria" when they see the eagle of Rome, so little ready to cry "Austria" @@ -2587,9 +2548,9 @@ letter only from its more ordinary Latin shape as seen over the gate, is also the name which the traveller will most frequently hear in its streets and will see universally written over its shops. As far as one -can see at a glance, German is at <i>Görz</i> the tongue of +can see at a glance, German is at <i>Görz</i> the tongue of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span> -hôtels, <i>cafés</i>, public departments of all kinds. Italian +hôtels, <i>cafés</i>, public departments of all kinds. Italian is the tongue of the citizens of <i>Gorizia</i> whose shops are sheltered by its street arcades. Slavonic, we conceive, will some day be the tongue of the little children @@ -2615,7 +2576,7 @@ choke up the market-place, witness to the richness of the land. But there is a strange lack of buildings of any importance in this capital of an ancient county, this resort which boasts itself as the "Nizza Austriaca," -the "Oesterreichische Nizza"—in such formulæ +the "Oesterreichische Nizza"—in such formulæ <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span> the third tongue of the spot is not called into play. A Nizza without any Mediterranean may seem @@ -2678,7 +2639,7 @@ construction. It is designed, within and without, of two stories: that is, the upper gallery is an essential part of the building. The principle is the same as in Saint Agnes and Saint Laurence at Rome, and as -in German churches like the Great Minster at Zürich; +in German churches like the Great Minster at Zürich; but the feeling is quite different. Still, if a church is to be built in a <i>Renaissance</i> style and to receive two sets of worshippers, one over the heads of the other, it must @@ -2916,7 +2877,7 @@ notice. Those two columns, standing forsaken, away from their fellows, mark that we have reached Monastero; in the days before Attila we should have reached Aquileia. We are now within the circuit of -the ancient colony. But mediæval Aquileia was shut +the ancient colony. But mediæval Aquileia was shut up within far narrower limits; modern Aquileia is shut up within narrower limits still. Within the courtyard of the building which is fronted by the two @@ -2926,7 +2887,7 @@ fragments of the great city that once was. We go on, and gradually our approach to the centre is marked by further fragments of columns lying here and there, as at Rome or Ravenna. A little farther, -and we are in modern Aquileia, "città Aquileia," as +and we are in modern Aquileia, "città Aquileia," as it still proudly calls itself in the official description, which, as usual, proclaims to the traveller the name <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span> @@ -2972,7 +2933,7 @@ the churches, gates, and other buildings, which have perished since the date of the map, remembering always that the Aquileia of the fifteenth century was the merest fragment of the vast city of earlier times. -A good deal of the town wall of the mediæval date +A good deal of the town wall of the mediæval date may still be traced. It runs near to the east end of the church, acting, as at Exeter and Chichester, as the wall at once of the town and of the ecclesiastical @@ -3001,7 +2962,7 @@ Ravenna; but all the main arches are pointed. And the pointed arches are not, as at Palermo and indeed at Pisa also, trophies of the vanquished Saracen; their details at once show that they are actual -mediæval work. We search the history, for which +mediæval work. We search the history, for which no great book-learning is needed, as inscriptions on the walls and floor supply the most important facts. The church was twice recast, once early in the eleventh @@ -3015,7 +2976,7 @@ again. And in the upper church also, the columns of the elder building have, as so often happens, lived through all repairs. Their capitals for the most <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span> -part are mediæval imitations of classical forms rather +part are mediæval imitations of classical forms rather than actual relics of the days before Attila. But two among them, one in each transept, still keep shattered Corinthian capitals of the very finest work.</p> @@ -3190,7 +3151,7 @@ from Aquileia to Gorizia. In favourable states of the astronomical world, we may even be lighted on our way by a newly-risen comet. We follow the precedent of our forefathers: "Isti mirant stellam." Such -a phænomenon must, according to all ancient belief, +a phænomenon must, according to all ancient belief, imply the coming of some great shaking among the powers of the world. In such a frame of mind, the gazer may be excused if he dreams that the portent @@ -3241,7 +3202,7 @@ towns so near Verona which yearn to be as Verona is. Let Trieste be the rival, even the eyesore, of Venice, still Southern Germany must have a mouth. We might indeed be better pleased to see Trieste a -free city, the southern fellow of Lübeck, Bremen, and +free city, the southern fellow of Lübeck, Bremen, and Hamburg; but it must not be forgotten that the Archduke of Austria and Lord of Trieste reigns at Trieste by a far better right than that by which he @@ -3265,10 +3226,10 @@ seats of commerce, are of the hoariest antiquity, but the remains of their early days have perished through their very prosperity. Massalia, with her long history, with her double wreath of freedom, the city which -withstood Cæsar and which withstood Charles of +withstood Cæsar and which withstood Charles of Anjou, is bare of monuments of her early days. She has been the victim of her abiding good fortune. We -can look down from the height on the Phôkaian +can look down from the height on the Phôkaian harbour; but for actual memorials of the men who fled from the Persian, of the men who defied the Roman and the Angevin, we might look as well at @@ -3350,7 +3311,7 @@ on the spot for a dwelling-place of man, it is plain that it ranks among the cities which have grown up out of hill-forts. Trieste in this affords a marked contrast to Marseilles, as it supplies a marked analogy -to Cumæ and Ancona. The site of the Phôkaian +to Cumæ and Ancona. The site of the Phôkaian settlement marks a distinct advance in civilization. The <i>castellieri</i>, the primitive forts, in the neighbouring land of Istria, were, according to Captain Burton, @@ -3426,7 +3387,7 @@ in our own island.</p> <p class="p2">It is certainly hard to conceive a building more uninviting without than the cathedral church of Saint <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span> -Justus. But Sokratês was not to be judged by his +Justus. But Sokratês was not to be judged by his outside, neither is the <i>duomo</i> of Trieste. A broad and almost shapeless west front is flanked by a low, heavy tower, not standing detached as a campanile, @@ -3446,8 +3407,8 @@ the temple of Jupiter which has given way to the church of Justus. Imbedded in its walls are pilasters, columns, and their basement, showing that Jupiter of Tergeste must have lifted his pillared portico -above the sea as proudly as Aphroditê of the Doric -Ankón. Fragments of entablatures, trophies, sepulchral +above the sea as proudly as Aphroditê of the Doric +Ankón. Fragments of entablatures, trophies, sepulchral monuments, are built up in the wall. The western doorway of the church is made out of a huge tomb of the Barbii—a <i>gens</i> which we do not elsewhere @@ -3478,7 +3439,7 @@ they support. When we look within the two lateral ranges, we are not surprised to find each ending in an apse with a noble mosaic; we are surprised to find the southern range interrupted by a cupola. This -last phænomenon will help us to the explanation of +last phænomenon will help us to the explanation of the whole mystery. The church is in fact two churches thrown into one. When they were distinct, they must have stood even nearer than the old and new minsters @@ -3631,7 +3592,7 @@ of Greek colonies and Illyrian piracy to the last war between Italy and Austria. But of continuous history, steadily influencing the course of the world's progress, Dalmatia has none to show. Salona plays its part in -the wars both of Cæsar and of Belisarius; Zara reminds +the wars both of Cæsar and of Belisarius; Zara reminds us of the fourth crusade; the whole history of Ragusa claims a high place among the histories of independent and isolated cities; Lissa recalls the memory of two @@ -3758,7 +3719,7 @@ the best view of Zara and her two seas. The <i>Albergo al Cappello</i>—the sign of the Hat—supplies food certainly not worse than an Italian town of the same class would set before a passing traveller. The -meal done, to sit out of doors in a <i>café</i> is nothing +meal done, to sit out of doors in a <i>café</i> is nothing new to any one who has crossed the straits, not of Zara but of Calais; but it is a new feeling to do so in the narrow streets of a Dalmatian town, and to @@ -3831,7 +3792,7 @@ Tower. The details are a strange mixture of late Gothic and <i>Renaissance</i>, very rich and somehow very effective. It is not exactly like that class of French churches of which Saint Eustache at Paris is the -grandest example, where a thoroughly mediæval outline +grandest example, where a thoroughly mediæval outline is carried out with <i>Renaissance</i> detail. At Sebenico we see side by side, a bit in one style and a bit in the other, and yet the two contrive to harmonize. @@ -3851,7 +3812,7 @@ Our course has by this time turned nearly due east. We pass by Bua, hardly conscious that it is an island. We pass by the mouth of the bay which Bua guards, hardly conscious of the depth of -the inlet into which it leads, or that two cities—Traü +the inlet into which it leads, or that two cities—Traü <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span> and fallen Salona—are washed by its waters. For the child of Salona, the great object of a Dalmatian voyage, @@ -3932,7 +3893,7 @@ smaller peninsula; and in this part of the voyage the spaces between them are not lacking in signs of human dwelling and cultivation. Capo d'Istria, once Justinopolis, lies in its gulf to the left, to remind us -that we have passed into the dominions of the Cæsars +that we have passed into the dominions of the Cæsars of the East. Forwards, Pirano stands on its headland, its <i>duomo</i> rising above the water on arcades built up to save it from the further effects of the stripping @@ -3981,7 +3942,7 @@ are such as concern only immediate inquirers into local Parentine history. At Pola it is otherwise; there the Roman remains stand out as the great object, utterly overshadowing the buildings of later times; -but at Parenzo the main interest, as it is not mediæval +but at Parenzo the main interest, as it is not mediæval <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span> so neither is it pagan Roman. As at Ravenna, so at Parenzo, the real charm is to be found in the traces @@ -4045,7 +4006,7 @@ thus:—</p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Famul[us] . D[e]i . Eufrasius . Antis[tes] . temporib[us] . suis . ag[ens] an[num] . xi. hunc. loc[um] . fondamen[tis] . D[e]o . jobant[e] . -s[an]c[t]e . æc[c]l[esie] Catholec[e] . cond[idit]. +s[an]c[t]e . æc[c]l[esie] Catholec[e] . cond[idit]. </p> </div> @@ -4270,7 +4231,7 @@ colonial capitol. The <i>duomo</i> should not be forgotten; even the church of Saint Francis is worth a glance; but it is in the remains of the Roman colony, in the amphitheatre, the arches, the temples, the fragments -preserved in that temple which serves, as at Nîmes, +preserved in that temple which serves, as at Nîmes, for a museum, that the real antiquarian wealth of Pola lies.</p> @@ -4281,7 +4242,7 @@ Nor can there be any need to show that the name Pola is not a contraction of Pietas Julia. Save for the slight accidental likeness of letters, so to say is about as reasonable as to say that London is a corruption -of Augusta, or Jerusalem of Ælia. In all +of Augusta, or Jerusalem of Ælia. In all these cases the older, native, familiar, name outlived the later, foreign, official, name. When we have thoroughly cleared up the origin of the Illyrians and @@ -4293,7 +4254,7 @@ became a Roman colony and a flourishing seat of commerce. Its action on the republican side in the civil war brought on it the vengeance of the second <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span> -Cæsar. But the destroyer became the restorer, and +Cæsar. But the destroyer became the restorer, and Pietas Julia, in the height of its greatness, far surpassed the extent either of the elder or the younger Pola. Like all cities of this region, Pola kept up its @@ -4319,7 +4280,7 @@ character which has come back to it in our own times; it was there that Belisarius gathered the Imperial fleet for his second and less prosperous expedition against the Gothic lords of Italy. But, after the break up -of the Frankish Empire, the history of mediæval Pola +of the Frankish Empire, the history of mediæval Pola <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span> is but a history of decline. It was, in the geography of Dante, the furthest city of Italy; but, like most @@ -4429,7 +4390,7 @@ of the house of Paris itself might stand abashed.</p> <p>A curious dialogue of the year 1600 is printed by Dr. Kandler in his little book, <i>Cenni al Forrestiere che visita Pola</i>, which, with a later little book, <i>Pola und -seine nächste Umgebung</i>, by A. Gareis, form together +seine nächste Umgebung</i>, by A. Gareis, form together a very sufficient guide for the visitor to Pola. From this evidence it is plain that, as late as the end of the sixteenth century, the ancient buildings of Pola @@ -4484,7 +4445,7 @@ ruined, consists, on the side towards the town, of two rows of arches, with a third story with square-headed openings above them. But the main peculiarity in the outside is to be found in four tower-like projections, -not, as at Arles and Nîmes, signs of Saracenic +not, as at Arles and Nîmes, signs of Saracenic occupation, but clearly parts of the original design. Many conjectures have been made about them; they look as if they were means of approach to the upper @@ -4499,7 +4460,7 @@ this part of the building. In the other part the traces of the underground arrangements are very <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span> clear, especially those which seem to have been meant -for the <i>naumachiæ</i>. These we specially recommend +for the <i>naumachiæ</i>. These we specially recommend to any disputants about the underground works of the Flavian amphitheatre.</p> @@ -4627,14 +4588,14 @@ older than Rome. Let us quote him in his own Greek, if only to show how oddly his Latin words look in their Greek dress.</p> -<p><span class="greek" title="To kastron tôn Diadôrôn kaleitai tê Rhômaiôn -dialektô iam erat, hoper hermêneuetai aparti êton; -dêlonoti hote hê Rhômê ektisthê, proektismenon ên to -toiouton kastron. esti de to kastron mega; hê de koinê -synêtheia kalei auto Diadôra">Τὸ κάστρον τῶν Διαδώρων καλεῖται τῇ Ῥωμαίων -διαλέκτῳ ἰὰμ ἔρατ, ὅπερ ἑρμηνεύεται ἀπάρτι ἦτον· +<p><span class="greek" title="To kastron tôn Diadôrôn kaleitai tê Rhômaiôn +dialektô iam erat, hoper hermêneuetai aparti êton; +dêlonoti hote hê Rhômê ektisthê, proektismenon ên to +toiouton kastron. esti de to kastron mega; hê de koinê +synêtheia kalei auto Diadôra">Τὸ κάστρον τῶν Διαδώρων καλεῖται τῇ Ῥωμαίων +διαλέκτῳ ἰὰμ ἔρατ, ὅπερ ἑρμηνεύεται ἀπάρτι ἦτον· δηλονότι ὅτε ἡ Ῥώμη ἐκτίσθη, προεκτισμένον ἦν τὸ -τοιοῦτον κάστρον. ἔστι δὲ τὸ κάστρον μέγα· ἡ δὲ κοινὴ +τοιοῦτον κάστρον. ἔστι δὲ τὸ κάστρον μέγα· ἡ δὲ κοινὴ συνήθεια καλεῖ αὐτὸ Διάδωρα. </span></p> @@ -4686,13 +4647,13 @@ the port as being guarded by a chain, which was broken by the galleys of the Crusaders. They presently landed on the opposite coast, so as to have the haven between them and the town ("et descendirent -à terre, si que di porz fu entr' aus et la ville"). That +à terre, si que di porz fu entr' aus et la ville"). That is to say, they landed on the mainland north of the haven. The Frank army then besieged the city by land—that is, from the isthmus on the east, and perhaps also from the shore of the haven; while the Venetians, though their ships anchored in the haven -("le port ou les nés estoient"), made their assault on +("le port ou les nés estoient"), made their assault on the side of the open sea ("devers la mer"). On the spot, or in reading the narrative of Villehardouin by the light of remembrance of the spot, the description @@ -4929,7 +4890,7 @@ Close by Saint Anastasia there stood in the days of Constantine, and there still stands, a round church, lately desecrated, now simply disused, which was then called by the name of the Trinity (<span class="greek" title="heteros -naos plêsion autou eilêmatikos, hê hagia Trias">ἕτερος ναὸς πλησίον αὐτοῦ εἰληματικὸς, ἡ ἁγία Τριάς +naos plêsion autou eilêmatikos, hê hagia Trias">ἕτερος ναὸς πλησίον αὐτοῦ εἰληματικὸς, ἡ ἁγία Τριάς </span>), but which now bears that of Saint Donatus. Its dome and the tower of Saint Mary's are the two objects @@ -5029,7 +4990,7 @@ he cast away shams and pretences, and made the true construction of the fabric stand out before men's eyes. Master of the Roman world, if not King, yet more than King, he let the true nature of his -power be seen, and, first among the Cæsars, arrayed +power be seen, and, first among the Cæsars, arrayed himself with the outward pomp of sovereignty. In a smaller man we might have deemed the change a mark of weakness, a sign of childish delight in @@ -5041,7 +5002,7 @@ steadily withstand all temptations to take them up again. It was simply that the change was fully wrought; that the chief magistrate of the commonwealth had gradually changed into the sovereign -of the Empire; that Imperator, Cæsar, and Augustus, +of the Empire; that Imperator, Cæsar, and Augustus, once titles lowlier than that of King, had now become, as they have ever since remained, titles far loftier. The change was wrought, and all that Diocletian @@ -5052,7 +5013,7 @@ into the Roman world, a hill by the Tiber had long ceased to be a fit dwelling-place for rulers who had to keep back hostile inroads from the Rhine and the Euphrates. This fact too Diocletian announced to the -world. He planted his Augusti and his Cæsars on +world. He planted his Augusti and his Cæsars on spots better suited for defence against the German and the Persian than the spot which had been chosen for defence against the Sabine and the Etruscan. @@ -5121,19 +5082,19 @@ of Hugh of Lincoln.</p> his house still abides, and abides in a shape marvellously little shorn of its ancient greatness. The name which it still bears comes straight from the name of -the elder home of the Cæsars. The fates of the two +the elder home of the Cæsars. The fates of the two spots have been in a strange way the converse of one another. By the banks of the Tiber the city of Romulus became the house of a single man; by the shores of the Hadriatic the house of a single man became a city. The Palatine hill became the <i>Palatium</i> -of the Cæsars, and <i>Palatium</i> was the name which was -borne by the house of Cæsar by the Dalmatian shore. +of the Cæsars, and <i>Palatium</i> was the name which was +borne by the house of Cæsar by the Dalmatian shore. The house became a city; but its name still clave to it, and the house of Jovius still, at least in the mouths <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span> of its own inhabitants, keeps its name in the slightly -altered form of Spálato.</p> +altered form of Spálato.</p> <p>He placed his home in a goodly land, on a spot whose first sight is striking at any moment; but @@ -5158,7 +5119,7 @@ wholly failed us, and, by the light of sun and moon together, we can trace out the long line of the sea-front of the palace which became a city. No nobler site could surely have been found within the bounds -of the Empire of the two Augusti and their Cæsars. +of the Empire of the two Augusti and their Cæsars. The sea in front, the mountains behind, the headlands, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span> the bays, the islands scattered around, might indeed @@ -5187,7 +5148,7 @@ art. We think how the man who re-organized the Empire of Rome was also the man who first put harmony and consistency into the architecture of Rome. We think that, if it was in truth the crown -of Diocletian which passed to every Cæsar from the +of Diocletian which passed to every Cæsar from the first Constantius to the last Francis, it was no less <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span> in the pile which rose into being at his word that @@ -5252,7 +5213,7 @@ the patriciate of Odoacer. The forsaken palace seems, while still almost new, to have become a cloth factory, where women worked, and which therefore appears in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span> -the Notitia as a Gynæcium. But when Salona was +the Notitia as a Gynæcium. But when Salona was overthrown, the palace stood ready to afford shelter to those who were driven from their homes. The palace, in the widest sense of the word—for of course @@ -5488,7 +5449,7 @@ royal visit, it seems hardly worth while to knock them away, with the chance of knocking away some of the genuine stone along with them. That royal visit is commemorated in a tablet at the end of the peristyle, which professes great loyalty to a personage described -as "Franciscus Primus, Austriæ Imperator et Dalmatiæ Rex." +as "Franciscus Primus, Austriæ Imperator et Dalmatiæ Rex." The man so labelled in Diocletian's own house had been the last successor to Diocletian's empire.</p> @@ -5575,13 +5536,13 @@ call themselves Romanesque.</p> <p>Eitelberger has well hit off the character of the three chief Dalmatian cities in three pithy epithets. Zara is <i>bureaukratisch</i>; -Spalato is <i>bürgerlich</i>; Ragusa is <i>alt-aristokratisch</i>. The burghers +Spalato is <i>bürgerlich</i>; Ragusa is <i>alt-aristokratisch</i>. The burghers seem to make more progress than either the foreign officials or the native patricians. Both better quarters and better dinners can be had at Spalato in 1881 than were to be had there in 1875. In 1881 we can walk on shore, while in 1877 boats were needed. And in 1881 the railway—a wonder in Dalmatia—was ready to carry us -to Salona or even to Sebenico, but not to Traü. On the other hand +to Salona or even to Sebenico, but not to Traü. On the other hand in some other respects, if not Spalato, at least its foreign rulers, seem to advance backwards, if they advance at all. Those who dwell under the shadow of Apostolic Majesty are used to the daily @@ -5590,7 +5551,7 @@ truths. At Spalato that Apostolic and constitutional power has gone a step further by suppressing the municipality. With us, when a Stewart king suppressed an ancient corporation, he at least set up another of a new Stewart fashion. But at Spalato the -<i>podestà</i>—the <i>potestas</i> still lingers in Dalmatia, while in Italy only +<i>podestà </i>—the <i>potestas</i> still lingers in Dalmatia, while in Italy only syndics are tolerated—and the other elders of the city seem to have become altogether things of the past, no less than Jovius and his Empire.</p> @@ -5610,7 +5571,7 @@ in Dalmatia, and how can there be more than one way of sounding the <i>omega</i> in the second syllable? And so far he will be right. The Salona of which we speak is in Dalmatia, and, as its most usual Greek -forms are <span class="greek" title="Salôna">Σαλῶνα</span> and <span class="greek" title="Salônai">Σαλῶναι</span>, there can be no doubt +forms are <span class="greek" title="Salôna">Σαλῶνα</span> and <span class="greek" title="Salônai">Σαλῶναι</span>, there can be no doubt as to the rights of that particular <i>omega</i>. But those who have gone a little deeper into the geography of south-eastern Europe will know that, besides the @@ -5624,17 +5585,17 @@ Boughton in Northamptonshire and Boughton in Kent <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span> are, by those who have local knowledge, sounded in two different ways, so it is with the Lokrian and the -Dalmatian Salona. <span class="greek" title="Sálona">Σάλωνα</span> and <span class="greek" title="Salôna">Σαλῶνα</span> differ to the +Dalmatian Salona. <span class="greek" title="Sálona">Σάλωνα</span> and <span class="greek" title="Salôna">Σαλῶνα</span> differ to the eye; and, among those with whom Greek is a living tongue, they differ to the ear also. But it is not -with the Lokrian Sálona, but with the Dalmatian -Salóna, that we are here concerned. We need not +with the Lokrian Sálona, but with the Dalmatian +Salóna, that we are here concerned. We need not disturb the feelings of the late Bishop Monk, whose one notion of accentual reading was that those who follow it must "make some strange false quantities." The classical purist may make the <i>omega</i> in the -Dalmatian Salóna as long as he pleases. Only, if he -pronounces the Lokrian Sálona in the same fashion, he +Dalmatian Salóna as long as he pleases. Only, if he +pronounces the Lokrian Sálona in the same fashion, he will wound the ears of those to whom the chief notion of (so-called) quantitative reading is that those who follow it must make some strange false accents.</p> @@ -5670,7 +5631,7 @@ of a village church. But at Salona the traveller hardly notices whether there be any church in use or not. Of modern objects the one which is most likely to catch his eye is the building which at least -proclaims, in the name of "Caffè Diocleziano," that +proclaims, in the name of "Caffè Diocleziano," that Salona in her fall has not forgotten the man who commonly passes for her greatest son, who, according to some, was her second founder, and who, in any case, @@ -5701,7 +5662,7 @@ Wilkinson appositely quotes the lines of Lucan:—</p> <p>Et tepidum in molles Zephyros excurrit Iader."</p> </div> -<p><i>Longæ</i> certainly well expresses the way in which the +<p><i>Longæ</i> certainly well expresses the way in which the city must have spread itself along the mouth of the river, and the northern side of the bay. And, more than this, the idea of length must have been deeply @@ -5764,7 +5725,7 @@ across the main stream of the Giadro, Lucan's Iader, which we might rather have looked for at Zara. We mark to the right the marshy ground divided by the many channels of the river; we pass by a square -castle with turreted corners, in which a mediæval +castle with turreted corners, in which a mediæval archbishop tried to reproduce the wonder of his own city; and we at last find ourselves close by one of the gates of Salona, ready to begin our examination of @@ -5782,7 +5743,7 @@ we may call north and south. That is, it runs from the hills down towards the bay or the river. Now, which was the elder part of the two? that to the east or that to the west? In other words, which represents -the præ-Roman city, and which represents its +the præ-Roman city, and which represents its enlargement in Roman times? By putting the question in this shape, we do not mean to imply that any part of the existing walls is of earlier than Roman @@ -5864,7 +5825,7 @@ remarkable thing about the walls of Salona is that, besides the walls of the city itself, there are long walls, like those of Athens and Megara, reaching from the western side of the city for a mile and more nearly -along the present road to Traü. They have not been +along the present road to Traü. They have not been traced to the end; but there can be no doubt that they were built to make long Salona yet longer by joining the town to some further point of the coast. @@ -5904,10 +5865,10 @@ to one general style of masonry.</p> <p class="p2">Within the walls of Salona the general effect is somewhat strange. The city is pierced by the road -from Spalato to Traü; in these later times it has been +from Spalato to Traü; in these later times it has been further pierced by the railway—strange object in Dalmatia, strangest of all at Salona—which starts from -Spalato, but which does not find its way to Traü. The +Spalato, but which does not find its way to Traü. The greater part of the space is still covered with vineyards and olive-trees; systematic digging would bring a vast deal to light; but a good deal positively has been @@ -5987,7 +5948,7 @@ Justinian. It must therefore have still been almost in its freshness when the last blow fell on Salona. And at such a time we can better take in the full force of the inscription which stood over the west door: -"Dominus noster propitius esto reipublicæ Romanæ." +"Dominus noster propitius esto reipublicæ Romanæ." The church, it should be noted, has been, at some time or other before it was quite swept away, patched up or applied to some other use. A later wall runs @@ -6017,7 +5978,7 @@ pagan date still stays in its place, a little way beyond the city, because, being hewn in the limestone rock, it could not be taken away. This is that which is described by Sir Gardner Wilkinson, which has some -of the exploits of Hêraklês carved on its one face, and +of the exploits of Hêraklês carved on its one face, and which has been so oddly changed in modern times into the altar of the canonized Pope Saint Caius. For he, like the Emperor under whom he suffered, passes for a @@ -6079,7 +6040,7 @@ Such could be the position of a Dalmatian city when Dalmatia had a civilized mainland to the back of it. Salona therefore kept up its position as long as the Empire still kept any strength on its Illyrian frontier. -It played its part in both the civil wars. Cæsar +It played its part in both the civil wars. Cæsar himself enlarges on the strength of the city—"oppidum et loci natura et colle munitum." In after-times it was a special object of the regard of its own @@ -6121,20 +6082,20 @@ only danger is that his meditations may be broken in upon by sellers of coins and scraps of all ages, dates, and values. Coins at Salona hardly need the process once known at the Mercian Dorchester as "going -a-Cæsaring." Cæsars seem to be picked up from +a-Cæsaring." Cæsars seem to be picked up from under and off the ground with much less trouble than hunting for truffles. And even he who is no professed numismatist or collector of gems will be pleased to give a few <i>soldi</i>, perhaps even for a very clear image and superscription of "Constantinus Junior Nob[ilissimus] -C[æsar]," much more for any image and +C[æsar]," much more for any image and superscription of Jovius himself. It may have neither rarity nor value in the eyes of the numismatically learned; but it is something to carry away from Salona itself the head of the foremost local worthy in Salona's long annals.</p> -<h3>TRAÜ.</h3> +<h3>TRAÃœ.</h3> <p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span></p> <h4>1875—1877—1881.</h4> @@ -6142,7 +6103,7 @@ in Salona's long annals.</p> <hr class="l15" /> <p>The visitor to Spalato and Salona should, if possible, -not fail to pay a visit to Traü. To most readers the +not fail to pay a visit to Traü. To most readers the very name will doubtless be strange. Yet Tragurium is an old city, a city old enough to be named by Polybios, to say nothing of later Greek and Latin @@ -6155,28 +6116,28 @@ be different with those who carry on their studies so far as to have dealings with the Imperial topographer. In his pages the name of the city has got lengthened into <span class="greek" title="Tetrangourion">Τετραγγούριον</span>, and we are told that it was so -called <span class="greek" title="dia to einai auto mikron dikên angouriou">διὰ τὸ εἶναι αὐτὸ μικρὸν δίκην ἀγγουρίου +called <span class="greek" title="dia to einai auto mikron dikên angouriou">διὰ τὸ εἶναι αὐτὸ μικρὸν δίκην ἀγγουρίου </span>. We are not ashamed to confess that the word <span class="greek" title="angouriou">ἀγγουρίου</span> gave us no meaning whatever, and that we had to turn to our dictionary to find that <span class="greek" title="angourion">ἀγγούριον</span> means a water-melon. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span> But where the point of likeness is between the town -of Traü and a water-melon, and why the name should +of Traü and a water-melon, and why the name should have been lengthened, so as to suggest, if anything, the notion of four water-melons, we are as much in the dark as before. Those therefore who have made acquaintance with the city in the shape of <span class="greek" title="Tetrangourion">Τετραγγούριον</span> will have a chance of keeping it in their minds. But with those who light only either on Tragurium or on -Traü, it will most likely happen as most commonly +Traü, it will most likely happen as most commonly happens with places which play no great part in general history. The name passes away as a mere name, till something happens to clothe it with a special meaning. Salona the parent and Spalato the child are names which never can become meaningless to any one who has a decent knowledge of the history -of the world. But the name of Tragurium, Traü, will +of the world. But the name of Tragurium, Traü, will probably always be purely meaningless, save to those whom anything may have led to take a special interest in Dalmatian matters. Tragurium has a history—no @@ -6192,7 +6153,7 @@ appendage even to the famous spots in its immediate neighbourhood. Whatever was its origin, Tragurium became a Roman town, and it was one of those places on the Dalmatian coast which so long and steadily -clave to their allegiance to the Eastern Cæsars. As +clave to their allegiance to the Eastern Cæsars. As the Byzantine power declined, the town was disputed between the Kings of Hungary and the commonwealth of Venice, and once at least it is said to have @@ -6200,16 +6161,16 @@ felt the hand of Saracen plunderers. By each of the Christian powers by which it was disputed it was won and lost more than once, till it finally became Venetian in 1420. Perhaps the point of greatest interest in -these dates is that Traü was a Hungarian possession at +these dates is that Traü was a Hungarian possession at the time of the building of its cathedral church in the thirteenth century. It is said to have points of likeness to other great Hungarian churches of the same date.</p> -<p>The approach to Traü is a speaking commentary on +<p>The approach to Traü is a speaking commentary on the state of things in days when no one but the lord of a private fortress could be safe anywhere except -within a walled town. The road from Spalato to Traü +within a walled town. The road from Spalato to Traü goes through Salona, through the heart of the ruined city, as does the railway which the traveller may use for part of his journey. The railway turns off; @@ -6226,8 +6187,8 @@ neither Demos nor the Council of Ten would for a moment have endured the existence of such towers as we still see at Rome and at Bologna. But in the outlying possessions of either commonwealth greater -licence was allowed. Alkibiadês had his private forts -in the Thracian Chersonêsos, and a string of Venetian +licence was allowed. Alkibiadês had his private forts +in the Thracian Chersonêsos, and a string of Venetian nobles and subjects of the Republic were allowed to have their private forts along the shores of the bay of Salona. The points which they occupied still remain @@ -6237,9 +6198,9 @@ whom the railway has forsaken may haply light on a small steamer to take him on. But none of those among the <i>castelli</i> which we can ourselves speak of from our own knowledge possess any architectural interest. -When at last we reach Traü, we see further how +When at last we reach Traü, we see further how needful it was, even in the case of a walled city, to -plant it in the position best suited for defence. Traü, +plant it in the position best suited for defence. Traü, now at least, belongs to the class of island cities. At the point where the large island of Bua comes nearest to the mainland, a small island lies between it and the @@ -6251,8 +6212,8 @@ might suggest the idea that the site was once, not insular, but peninsular. Constantine places his <span class="greek" title="Tetrangourion">Τετραγγούριον</span> on a small island, but the small island has a neck like a bridge which joins it to the mainland -(<span class="greek" title="mikron esti nêsion en tê thalassê, echon kai -trachêlon heôs tês gês stenôtaton dekên gephsyriou, en hô +(<span class="greek" title="mikron esti nêsion en tê thalassê, echon kai +trachêlon heôs tês gês stenôtaton dekên gephsyriou, en hô dierchontai hoi katoikountes es to auto kastron">μικρόν ἐστι νησίον ἐν τῇ θαλάσσῃ, ἔχον καὶ τράχηλον ἕως τῆς γῆς στενώτατον δίκην γεφυρίου, ἐν ᾧ διέρχονται οἱ κατοικοῦντες ἐς τὸ αὐτὸ κάστρον </span>). This @@ -6262,7 +6223,7 @@ isthmus had been cut through. In the Peutinger Table too, "Ragurio" is made distinctly peninsular. Now at least the likeness of a bridge is exchanged for the reality; the island is an island, and on this island -is built the main part of the city of Traü. A small +is built the main part of the city of Traü. A small part only spreads itself on to Bua, where it begins to climb the hills, though it goes up only a very little way, by paths almost as rugged as though they were @@ -6277,15 +6238,15 @@ Peutinger Table would give any idea of its position. But Wheler's view well brings out the relative <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span> positions of mainland, islet, and island, and it shows -how strongly Traü was fortified in his day. Such a +how strongly Traü was fortified in his day. Such a site as this was a valuable one in days when security was the main object; but it hardly tends to prosperity in modern times, and Tragurium must be reckoned among the cities whose day is past. While Spalato is -putting on the likeness of a busy modern town, Traü +putting on the likeness of a busy modern town, Traü has nothing to show but its ancient memories.</p> -<p>Traü, as we now see it, is indeed an old-world place. +<p>Traü, as we now see it, is indeed an old-world place. Even the new-made railway, which has appeared long since our first visit, and which startles the quiet of Salona and some of the <i>castelli</i>, keeps away from the @@ -6295,21 +6256,21 @@ a visitor showing himself again after some years is greeted in friendly guise as "one of the three Englishmen with red beards." And the city looks like one of the ends of the world. Owing to the peculiar position -of Traü, the fashion of narrow streets, common to all +of Traü, the fashion of narrow streets, common to all the Dalmatian towns, is here carried to an extreme point. Indeed the crooked alleys through which the visitor has to thread his way, and the dark arches and vaults under which he has to pass, give the place a Turkish rather than a Venetian look. The explorer -of Traü might almost fancy himself at Trebinje. One +of Traü might almost fancy himself at Trebinje. One wonders how the Tragurians manage to live; it is only on the quay and in the open place by the cathedral <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span> that there seems room to breathe. Yet, uninviting as -the streets of Traü are in their general effect, they +the streets of Traü are in their general effect, they are far from being void of objects of interest. As elsewhere in Dalmatia, we ever and anon light on -ornamental doorways and windows. In Traü some of +ornamental doorways and windows. In Traü some of these show better forms than those of the familiar Venetian Gothic; one or two windows are in style, whatever they may be in date, genuine Romanesque. @@ -6323,7 +6284,7 @@ Venetian <i>loggia</i>, now dirty and uncared for. But it still keeps at its east end what at first sight seems like an altar, dedicated, not to the Evangelist but to his lion, but which really marks the judgment-seat of -the representative of the Republic in Traü. The +the representative of the Republic in Traü. The building was repaired over and over again, the last renovation dating early in the seventeenth century; but it keeps a colonnade, which, whenever it was put @@ -6337,18 +6298,18 @@ Byzantine than classical. And on either side of the <i>loggia</i>, forming a strange contrast to one another, one of them utterly hidden from view, the other proclaiming itself as the main ornament of the town, stand the -two most important ecclesiastical buildings of Traü.</p> +two most important ecclesiastical buildings of Traü.</p> <div class="figcenter p6"><a name="i215" id="i215"></a> <img src="images/i215.jpg" width="500" height="361" alt="Cathedral, Trau" /> -<p class="caption">CATHEDRAL, TRAÜ.</p> +<p class="caption">CATHEDRAL, TRAÃœ.</p> </div> <p>The chief architectural ornament of the city is undoubtedly the formerly cathedral, now only collegiate, church. This is a work of the thirteenth century, with a stately bell-tower of the fourteenth or fifteenth. -But the tower of Traü is no detached campanile, such +But the tower of Traü is no detached campanile, such as we have seen at Zara and Spalato. It forms part of the building; it occupies its north-western corner, and was designed to be one of a pair, after the usage of @@ -6378,12 +6339,12 @@ and pointed arch are struggling for the mastery. By a freak almost more unaccountable than the red rags of Zara, the piers have very lately been taught to discharge the perhaps useful, but rather incongruous, -function of a catalogue of the bishops of Traü, bishops +function of a catalogue of the bishops of Traü, bishops whose succession has come to an end. The pulpit, the stalls, and other fittings, are also striking in many ways, and the triapsidal east end shows us a rather simple Romanesque style in all its purity. But the -glory of Traü is at the other end. The stately portico +glory of Traü is at the other end. The stately portico veils the still more stately western doorway, in which, if the purity of the architectural style is somewhat forsaken, we forgive it for the richness and variety of @@ -6402,13 +6363,13 @@ which, with its illustrations, goes further than most memoirs of the kind to make the building really intelligible at a distance. The turbaned figures are far older than the appearance of the Ottoman in the -neighbourhood of Traü, or indeed in any part of +neighbourhood of Traü, or indeed in any part of Europe. Are they Saracens whose forms record the memories of some returning Crusader? Or are we to believe that the Morlacchi used the turban as their head-dress before the Ottoman came?</p> -<p>But the <i>duomo</i> is not all that Traü has to show in +<p>But the <i>duomo</i> is not all that Traü has to show in the way of churches. On the other side of the Venetian loggia stands, hidden among other buildings, a church which is in its way of equal interest with @@ -6428,7 +6389,7 @@ the small church of Saint John Baptist, which, except that it has a square east end, might pass for an almost typical Romanesque church on a small scale. Nearly opposite to Saint Barbara is the most striking house in -Traü, with an open galleried court; and not very far +Traü, with an open galleried court; and not very far off, hidden in the narrow streets, is the Benedictine monastery of Saint Nicolas, the foundation of the local saint John Orsini in 1064. The points to be @@ -6440,7 +6401,7 @@ hardly so old as the saint himself. A walk outside the walls in the direction of the Venetian castle leads to other churches, one of which, attached to a house of Dominican nuns, surprises the visitor, like the -ruined chapel of the Gaetani by the tomb of Cæcilia +ruined chapel of the Gaetani by the tomb of Cæcilia Metella, by its almost English look. A few hours may well be spent in examining the antiquities of this strange little island city, and in taking in the @@ -6462,7 +6423,7 @@ over them. <div class="figcenter p6"><a name="i220" id="i220"></a> <img src="images/i220.jpg" width="500" height="361" alt="Saint John Baptist, Trau" /> -<p class="caption">SAINT JOHN BAPTIST, TRAÜ.</p> +<p class="caption">SAINT JOHN BAPTIST, TRAÃœ.</p> </div> <h2>SPALATO TO CATTARO.</h2> @@ -6549,11 +6510,11 @@ the only ones to which we can fix a positive date, were colonized only in the first half of the fourth century, and Dionysios of Syracuse had a hand in their colonization. Lesina is Pharos, the ancient -colony of the Ægæan Paros, whose name still lives +colony of the Ægæan Paros, whose name still lives on Slavonic lips in the shape of <i>Far</i> or <i>Hvar</i>. It <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span> plays a considerable part in the history of Polybios, -as the island of that Dêmêtrios whose crooked policy +as the island of that Dêmêtrios whose crooked policy formed an important element in the affairs of mankind in the days when Greek and Roman history began to flow together into one stream. These islands form @@ -6563,7 +6524,7 @@ we see neither the ancient nor the modern city, neither Pharos nor Lesina; we merely skirt the island to find ourselves in the channel of Narenta. That name suggests yet another pirate power, later than -that of Tenta and Dêmêtrios, that power of the old +that of Tenta and Dêmêtrios, that power of the old Pagania against which Venice, in her early days, had to wage so hard a struggle. We seem to be pressing on between the mainland and a long, slender, mountainous @@ -6808,7 +6769,7 @@ the once renowned isle of Curzola.</p> <p>Curzola—such is its familiar Italian form—is the ancient Black Korkyra, and on Slavonic lips it still keeps the elder name in the shape of <i>Kerker</i>. But -the sight of <span class="greek" title="hê melaina Korkura">ἡ μέλαινα Κόρκυρα +the sight of <span class="greek" title="hê melaina Korkura">ἡ μέλαινα Κόρκυρα </span> suggests a question of the same kind as that which the visitor is driven to ask on his first sight of Montenegro. How does a @@ -6877,7 +6838,7 @@ the larger Dalmatian islands; and it is an island of some zoological interest. It is one of the few spots in Europe where the jackal still lingers. Perhaps there is no other, but, as we have heard rumours of -like phænomenon in Epeiros, a decided negative is +like phænomenon in Epeiros, a decided negative is dangerous. We believe that, according to the best scientific opinion, "lingered" is the right word. The jackal is not an importation from anywhere else into @@ -6930,12 +6891,12 @@ town. It is singular how utterly everything earlier <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span> than the final Venetian occupation of 1420 has passed away. The Greek colonist has left no sign of himself -but the site. Of Roman, of earlier mediæval, times +but the site. Of Roman, of earlier mediæval, times there is nothing to be seen beyond an inscription or two, one of which, a fragment worked into the pavement of one of the steep streets, records the connexion which once was between Curzola and Hungary. With -præ-Venetian inscriptions we may class one which is +præ-Venetian inscriptions we may class one which is post-Venetian, and which records another form of foreign dominion, one which may be classed with that of Lewis the Great as at least better than those which @@ -7020,7 +6981,7 @@ the capitals, which extends to the small shafts in the triforium, might tempt us to assign a far later date to these columns and arches than their general effect would suggest. But at all events they are -thoroughly mediæval; there is not the faintest trace +thoroughly mediæval; there is not the faintest trace of <i>Renaissance</i> about them.</p> <p>Outside the church, the usual mixed character of @@ -7077,7 +7038,7 @@ the antiquary than they are at Ragusa; they fence things round at the bottom, instead of hiding everything from the top. We may shut our eyes to a modern fort or two on the hills; the walls of the town -itself, where they are left, are picturesque mediæval +itself, where they are left, are picturesque mediæval walls broken by round towers, on some of which the winged lion does not fail to show himself. He presides again over a <i>loggia</i> by the seashore, one of those @@ -7096,7 +7057,7 @@ more in his natural place over the gate by which we shall most likely enter the town, a gate of 1643, itself square-headed, but with pointed vaulting within. Its inscriptions do not fail to commemorate the Trojan -Antênor as founder of Black Korkyra, along with +Antênor as founder of Black Korkyra, along with <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span> a more modern ruler, the Venetian John-Baptist Grimani. To the right hand, curiosity is raised by @@ -7181,7 +7142,7 @@ may be sure that there is nothing older than the Venetian occupation, and that most of the houses are of quite late date, of the sixteenth and even the seventeenth century. The Venetian style clave to -mediæval forms of window long after the <i>Renaissance</i> +mediæval forms of window long after the <i>Renaissance</i> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span> had fully set in in everything else. And for an obvious reason; whatever attractions the <i>Renaissance</i> @@ -7217,7 +7178,7 @@ local tendencies; a very late building, as it clearly is, it still keeps some traces of earlier ideas. Two equal bodies, each with a pointed barrel-vault, might remind us of some districts of our own island, and, with -nothing else that can be called mediæval detail, the +nothing else that can be called mediæval detail, the round window does not fail to appear. The other monastery, best known as the <i>Badia</i>, once a house of Benedictines, afterwards of Franciscans, stands on a @@ -7227,15 +7188,15 @@ but it too illustrates the prevalent mixture of styles which comes out very instructively in the cloister. This bears date 1477, as appears from an inscription over one of its doors. But this doorway is flat-headed -and has lost all mediæval character, while the cloister +and has lost all mediæval character, while the cloister itself is a graceful design with columns and trefoil arches, which in other lands one would attribute to a much earlier date. The library contains some early printed books and some Greek manuscripts, none seemingly of any great intrinsic value. A manuscript -of Dionysios Periêgêtês is described as the +of Dionysios Periêgêtês is described as the property of the Korkyraian Nicolas and his friends. -(<span class="greek" title="Nikolaou Kerkyraiou kai tôn philôn.">Νικολάου Κερκυραίου καὶ τῶν φίλων. </span>) Nicolas had +(<span class="greek" title="Nikolaou Kerkyraiou kai tôn philôn.">Νικολάου Κερκυραίου καὶ τῶν φίλων. </span>) Nicolas had a surname, but unluckily it has passed away from our memory and from our notes. But the local description which he has given of himself makes us ask, @@ -7505,7 +7466,7 @@ great and fenced up to heaven. We must leave the military architect to discuss their military merits or demerits. To the non-professional observer they seem <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">227</a></span> -to belong to that type of fortification, between mediæval +to belong to that type of fortification, between mediæval and modern, which in these lands we naturally call Venetian, inapplicable as that name is at Ragusa. But they have clearly been strengthened and extended @@ -7566,17 +7527,17 @@ With him Epidauros has sunk into <span class="greek" title="Pitaura">Πί <i>t</i> seems to have supplanted the <i>d</i> at a much earlier time—and the city on the rocks which its exiles founded was first called from its site <span class="greek" title="Lausion">Λαύσιον</span>, which -by vulgar use (<span class="greek" title="hê koinê synêtheia hê pollakis metaphtheirousa -ta onomata tê enallagê tôn grammatôn">ἡ κοινὴ συνήθεια, ἡ πολλάκις μεταφθείρουσα +by vulgar use (<span class="greek" title="hê koinê synêtheia hê pollakis metaphtheirousa +ta onomata tê enallagê tôn grammatôn">ἡ κοινὴ συνήθεια, ἡ πολλάκις μεταφθείρουσα τὰ ὀνόματα τῇ ἐναλλαγῇ τῶν γραμμάτων </span>) became -<span class="greek" title="Rhaousion">Ῥαούσιον</span>. He tells us that, <span class="greek" title="epei epanô tôn krêmnôn -histatai legetai de Rhômaisti ho krêmnos lau, eklêthêsan -ek touton Lausaioi, êgoun hoi kathezomenoi eis ton krêmnon">ἐπεὶ ἐπάνω τῶν κρημνῶν +<span class="greek" title="Rhaousion">Ῥαούσιον</span>. He tells us that, <span class="greek" title="epei epanô tôn krêmnôn +histatai legetai de Rhômaisti ho krêmnos lau, eklêthêsan +ek touton Lausaioi, êgoun hoi kathezomenoi eis ton krêmnon">ἐπεὶ ἐπάνω τῶν κρημνῶν ἵσταται, λέγεται δὲ Ῥωμαϊστὶ ὁ κρημνὸς λαῦ, ἐκλήθησαν ἐκ τούτου Λαυσαῖοι, ἤγουν οἱ καθεζόμενοι εἰς τὸν κρημνόν </span>. -What tongue is meant by <span class="greek" title="Rhômaisti">Ῥωμαϊστί</span>? It is only +What tongue is meant by <span class="greek" title="Rhômaisti">Ῥωμαϊστί</span>? It is only because the strange form <span class="greek" title="lau">λαῦ</span> seems to come one -degree nearer to <span class="greek" title="laas anaidês">λᾶας ἀναιδής</span> than to anything in +degree nearer to <span class="greek" title="laas anaidês">λᾶας ἀναιδής</span> than to anything in Latin, that it dawns on us that it means Greek. But, under whatever name, the city on the rocks, small at first, strengthened by refugees from Salona, grew and @@ -7603,8 +7564,8 @@ times in a kind of dependent relation both to Venice and to the Turk. At an earlier time the commonwealth for a short time received a Venetian Count. He was doubtless only meant to be like a foreign -<i>podestà</i>, but Venice was a very dangerous place for -Ragusa to bring a <i>podestà</i> from. In her later days +<i>podestà </i>, but Venice was a very dangerous place for +Ragusa to bring a <i>podestà </i> from. In her later days Ragusa must be looked on as being under the protection of the Porte; but it was a protection which in no way interfered with her full internal freedom—such @@ -7639,7 +7600,7 @@ the master of France took to himself what France had betrayed to Austria. Presently he disliked the small oasis of independence, and added Ragusa to the dominion which was presently to take -in Rome and Lübeck. Lastly, when the days of +in Rome and Lübeck. Lastly, when the days of confusion were over, and order came back to the world, order at Ragusa took the form of a new foreign master. The Austrian, who had reigned for a moment @@ -7672,7 +7633,7 @@ on the lips of its own citizens speaking their own language—is <i>Dubrovnik</i>, a perfectly independent Slavonic name. It may be the name of some Slavonic suburb or neighbouring settlement—like the <i>Wendisches -Dorf</i> at Lüneburg—but at all events it is no +Dorf</i> at Lüneburg—but at all events it is no corruption, no translation, of Latin <i>Ragusa</i> or of Constantine's <i>Raousion</i>.</p> @@ -7761,8 +7722,8 @@ which is hardly more than a village, with two or three churches and a small amount of fortification, covers the isthmus and the lower ground of the promontory. Such is all that is left of the northern city -of Asklêpios, the city which played its part alike in -the wars of Cæsar and in the wars of Belisarius, which +of Asklêpios, the city which played its part alike in +the wars of Cæsar and in the wars of Belisarius, which in the great revolution that followed the Slavonic <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">236</a></span> inroads perished to give birth to the more abiding @@ -7835,7 +7796,7 @@ foot of the limestone rock. The hills of Greece and Dalmatia constantly suggest, to one who knows the West of England, the kindred, though far lowlier, hills of Mendip. As the gorge under the akropolis of -Mykênê at once suggests the gorge of Cheddar, so +Mykênê at once suggests the gorge of Cheddar, so the basin of the Trebenitza at Ombla suggests, though the scale is larger, the basin of the Axe at Wookey Hole. The river runs out from the bottom of the @@ -7964,7 +7925,7 @@ older than the earthquake, and the cloister is one of the best specimens of that style. Its groupings of tracery under round arches, the poverty of design in the tracery itself, strike us as weak, if our thoughts -go back to Salisbury or to Zürich; but the general +go back to Salisbury or to Zürich; but the general effect is good, and the cloister—as distinguished from the buildings above it—may almost be called beautiful. Of more importance in the history of Ragusan @@ -8044,7 +8005,7 @@ or striving after a helpless imitation of foreign forms. Never mind the date; here is Romanesque in all its <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">246</a></span> truth and beauty; here, in the land which gave Rome -so many of her greatest Cæsars, the arcade of Ragusa +so many of her greatest Cæsars, the arcade of Ragusa may worthily end the series which began with the arcades of Spalato. Siegmund, the last but one to wear the crown of Diocletian in the Eternal City, has @@ -8080,9 +8041,9 @@ a little of the vulgar <i>Renaissance</i>. But who shall blame the capital long ago engraved and commented on by Sir Gardner Wilkinson, in which however a neighbouring inscription shows that tradition was right -in seeing the form of Asklêpios, and not that of a +in seeing the form of Asklêpios, and not that of a mere mortal alchemist, though tradition was certainly -wrong in believing that Asklêpios had been brought +wrong in believing that Asklêpios had been brought ready made from his old home at Epidauros? And the capitals bear arches worthy of them, round arches with mouldings and ornaments, which thoroughly fit @@ -8390,7 +8351,7 @@ of place. Even in the <i>Stradone</i>, where in the houses there is little architecture of any kind, a touch of ancient effect is kept in the form of the shops, with their arches and stone dressers, thoroughly after the -mediæval pattern. And some architectural features +mediæval pattern. And some architectural features never died out. The round window with tracery goes on long after every other feature of Romanesque or Gothic is forgotten. It is to be seen in endless little @@ -8505,8 +8466,8 @@ something is certainly going on, though it may not be easy to know exactly what. Between Ragusa and Trebinje there is just now no actual fighting; the road is reported to be perfectly safe; only it is advisable to -get a passport <i>visé</i> by the Turkish consul. The passports -are <i>visé</i>, but, so far for the credit of the Turks, +get a passport <i>visé</i> by the Turkish consul. The passports +are <i>visé</i>, but, so far for the credit of the Turks, it must be added that, though duly carried, they were never asked for. The party, four in number—three English and one Russian—presently set forth from @@ -8644,7 +8605,7 @@ were brought to spread havoc over Christian lands. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">267</a></span> All however agreed that, as the armed votaries of the Prophet passed before them, the unmistakeable -features of the Æthiop were not lacking among the +features of the Æthiop were not lacking among the many varieties of countenance which they displayed. But the Paynim force, though it did no actual deed of arms before the eyes of our party, did something @@ -8837,8 +8798,8 @@ it bears still, but which the august geographer seizes on as the subject of one of his wonderful bits of etymology. Cattaro with him is Dekatera, and we read:</p> -<p><span class="greek" title="hoti to kastron tôn Dekaterôn hermêneuetai tê -Rhômaiôn dialektô estenômenon kai peplêgmenon.">ὅτι τὸ κάστρον τῶν Δεκατέρων ἑρμηνεύεται τῇ +<p><span class="greek" title="hoti to kastron tôn Dekaterôn hermêneuetai tê +Rhômaiôn dialektô estenômenon kai peplêgmenon.">ὅτι τὸ κάστρον τῶν Δεκατέρων ἑρμηνεύεται τῇ Ῥωμαίων διαλέκτῳ ἐστενωμένον καὶ πεπληγμένον.</span></p> <p>We are again driven to ask, Which is the dialect @@ -8868,7 +8829,7 @@ as they are in scenes of surpassing natural beauty. The general history of the district consists in the usual tossing to and fro between the various powers which have at different times been strong in the -neighbourhood. Cattaro—<span class="greek" title="ta katô Dekatera">τὰ κάτω Δεκάτερα</span>—was in +neighbourhood. Cattaro—<span class="greek" title="ta katô Dekatera">τὰ κάτω Δεκάτερα</span>—was in the reign of Basil the Macedonian besieged and taken by Saracens, who presently went on unsuccessfully to besiege Ragusa. And, as under Byzantine rule it @@ -8956,7 +8917,7 @@ Ragusa to our final goal at Cattaro. The strait leads us into a gulf; another narrow strait leads us into an inner gulf; and on an inlet again branching out of that inner gulf lies the furthest of Dalmatian cities. -The lower city, Cattaro itself, <span class="greek" title="ta katô Dekatera">τὰ κάτω Δεκάτερα</span>, +The lower city, Cattaro itself, <span class="greek" title="ta katô Dekatera">τὰ κάτω Δεκάτερα</span>, seems to lie so quietly, so peacefully, as if in a world of its own from which nothing beyond the shores of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">278</a></span> @@ -9011,10 +8972,10 @@ world whose history is not yet over.</p> <p class="p2">The city of Cattaro itself is small, standing on a narrow ledge between the gulf and the base of the mountain. It carries the features of the Dalmatian -cities to what any one who has not seen Traü will call +cities to what any one who has not seen Traü will call their extreme point. But, though the streets of Cattaro are narrow, yet they are civilized and airy-looking -compared with those of Traü, and the little paved +compared with those of Traü, and the little paved <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">280</a></span> squares, as so often along this coast, suggest the memory of the ruling city. The memory of Venice @@ -9042,9 +9003,9 @@ second only to the <i>duomo</i>. Here some may see for the first time the ecclesiastical arrangements of Eastern Christendom; and those who do not wish to see a church thrown wide open from end to end, those who -would cleave alike to the rood-beam of Lübeck, the +would cleave alike to the rood-beam of Lübeck, the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">281</a></span> -<i>jubé</i> of Albi, and the <i>cancelli</i> of Saint Clement, to the +<i>jubé</i> of Albi, and the <i>cancelli</i> of Saint Clement, to the old screen which once was at Wimborne and to the new screen which now is at Lichfield, may be startled at the first sight of the Eastern <i>eikonostasis</i> blocking @@ -9061,11 +9022,11 @@ Bishop of the Old Rome has ever been deemed an intruder. The building itself is a small Byzantine church, less Byzantine in fact in its outline than the small churches of the Byzantine type at Zara, Spalato, -and Traü. The single dome rises, not from the intersection +and Traü. The single dome rises, not from the intersection of a Greek cross, but from the middle of a single body, and, resting as it does on pointed -arches, it suggests the thought of Périgueux and -Angoulême. But this arrangement, which is shared +arches, it suggests the thought of Périgueux and +Angoulême. But this arrangement, which is shared by a neighbouring Latin church, is well known throughout the East. The Latin <i>duomo</i>, which has been minutely described by Mr. Neale, is of quite @@ -9073,7 +9034,7 @@ another type, and is by no means Dalmatian in its general look. A modern west front with two western <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">282</a></span> towers does not go for much; but it reminds us that a -design of the same kind was begun at Traü in better +design of the same kind was begun at Traü in better times. The inside is quite unlike anything of later Italian work. It seems like a cross between a basilica and an Aquitanian church. It is small, but the @@ -9103,7 +9064,7 @@ of the <i>duomo</i> of Cattaro, and thinks of the land and the men to which the path over that mountain leads, he feels that, on this frontier at least, the spirit still lives which led English warriors to the side of Manuel -Komnênos, and which steeled the heart of the last +Komnênos, and which steeled the heart of the last Constantine to die in the breach for the Roman name and the faith of Christendom. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285"></a></span></p> @@ -9190,7 +9151,7 @@ to know of Sikels in Epeiros; but, if his Sikels were in Italy, we only get the same connexion in another shape. A crowd of rulers from one side and from the other have ruled on both sides of the lower waters of -Hadria. Agathoklês, Pyrrhos, Robert Wiscard, King +Hadria. Agathoklês, Pyrrhos, Robert Wiscard, King Roger, William the Good, strove alike either to add Epeiros and Korkyra to a Sicilian dominion or to add <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">290</a></span> @@ -9341,7 +9302,7 @@ like other places, doubtless has its history known to local inquirers; but the more general inquirer will very seldom light upon its name. It is hard to find any sure sign of its being in Roman times, but it must -be the "Tirhennium quæ et Trana" of the geographer +be the "Tirhennium quæ et Trana" of the geographer Guido. Let us take such a common-place test as looking through the indices to several volumes of Muratori and Pertz till the task becomes wearisome. Such a task will @@ -9352,7 +9313,7 @@ Emperor Lothar, but it is only by searching that we find it. The name of Trani does not stand out without searching, like so many of the cities even of southern Italy. Yet Trani is no inconsiderable place; it is an -archæpiscopal see with a noble metropolitan church; +archæpiscopal see with a noble metropolitan church; and in our own day, though much smaller than its neighbour Bari, it seems to share in the present prosperity of which the signs at Bari are unmistakeable. @@ -10040,9 +10001,9 @@ assert his claim to all that the older lords of Constantinople had held east of the Hadriatic. No argument could be more self-destructive in Venetian mouths. If the Turk had inherited the rights of -Eastern Cæsar in the Western lands, how cruelly +Eastern Cæsar in the Western lands, how cruelly was Venice defrauding him of a large part of the -rights of the Eastern Cæsar in his own Eastern +rights of the Eastern Cæsar in his own Eastern lands.</p> <p class="p2">The conquest of Otranto was the last of the conquests @@ -10054,9 +10015,9 @@ work of Ottoman conquest in Europe by the taking of Constantinople, who by the taking of Euboia dealt <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">320</a></span> the heaviest blow to the Venetian power in the -Ægæan, who brought under his power, as a gleaning +Ægæan, who brought under his power, as a gleaning after the vintage, the Frank lordship of Attica and -the Greek lordship of Peloponnêsos, in his last days +the Greek lordship of Peloponnêsos, in his last days stretched forth his hand to vex Western Europe as he had so long vexed Eastern Europe and what was left of Christian Asia. He was in truth attacking both at @@ -10078,7 +10039,7 @@ as likely to be milder than that of their own stranger king. The invader was his own worst enemy. A contemporary writer witnesses that the prisoners taken by Achmet <i>Break-Tooth</i>—such is said to be -the meaning of his surname <i>Giédek</i>—pointed out to +the meaning of his surname <i>Giédek</i>—pointed out to him that by his cruelties at Otranto he was losing for <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">321</a></span> his master a province which otherwise might have @@ -10086,7 +10047,7 @@ been won with little effort.</p> <p>But happily things took another turn. Otranto was in the Western world what Kallipolis—the Kallipolis -of the Thracian Chersonêsos—had been in the Eastern. +of the Thracian Chersonêsos—had been in the Eastern. It was the first foothold of the barbarian, the gate by which he seemed likely to open his way to the possession of the central peninsula of Europe, as he had by @@ -10118,7 +10079,7 @@ Italian cities, belongs to, and heads, the list on which we inscribe the names of Buda and Belgrade and Athens and Sofia, on which it may now inscribe the names of Arta and Larissa, but from which hapless -Jôannina and twice-forsaken Parga are still for a while +Jôannina and twice-forsaken Parga are still for a while shut out.</p> <p>It was not therefore till the Turk had been driven @@ -10195,10 +10156,10 @@ weapons, some with barbarian weapons still cleaving to them. There we look on them, ghastly witnesses that, neither in their days nor in ours, is the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">325</a></span> -Æthiopian at all disposed to change his skin or the +Æthiopian at all disposed to change his skin or the leopard his spots. What the Turk did at Otranto he has done at Batak; he may, if the freak seizes him, -do the like at Jôannina. Only the deeds of Otranto +do the like at Jôannina. Only the deeds of Otranto were at least done by the Turk as a mere outside barbarian; he was not licensed to do them by the united voice of Europe. It is only in these latest @@ -10224,7 +10185,7 @@ from the Turk. The west window is of that date, one of those rose-windows to which Italian, and still more Dalmatian, taste clave so long, even when all <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">326</a></span> -other mediæval fashions had vanished away. Of the +other mediæval fashions had vanished away. Of the same date is the north door, showing, like the great doors at Benevento, the Primate of the Salentines attended by the bishops and chief abbots of his @@ -10264,7 +10225,7 @@ out. But the further law, that that duty is most worthily discharged by the imperial eagle, can be nowhere better studied than in the Hydrantine under-church. In some capitals again, especially in the -columns of the apses, the bird of Cæsar is perched as +columns of the apses, the bird of Cæsar is perched as it were on Byzantine basket-work, clearly showing which Augustus it was to whom the Salentine Primate bowed as his temporal lord. Other capitals again @@ -10327,7 +10288,7 @@ its vast trunk along the central line of the nave, throwing forth its branches, and what we may call their fruit, on either side. Here are strange beasts which may pass either for the fancies of the herald or for the -discoveries of the palæontologist; but in the lion with +discoveries of the palæontologist; but in the lion with four bodies and a single head we must surely look for a symbolical meaning of some kind. He is balanced, to be sure, by other strange forms, in which two or @@ -10371,7 +10332,7 @@ the currency in these regions of the tales which had <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">331</a></span> been not so long before spread abroad by Walter Map. By this time, or not long after, the name of Arthur -had already found a local habitation on Ætna itself. +had already found a local habitation on Ætna itself. Among other scriptural pieces in different parts, we find of course Adam and Eve, and Cain and Abel; there is Jonah too, far to the east; and in the eastern @@ -10455,14 +10416,14 @@ and the purely Greek lands, the "continuous Hellas," to <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">334</a></span> the south. We find on this western shore of the south-eastern peninsula the same feature which is characteristic -of so large a part of the Ægæan and Euxine +of so large a part of the Ægæan and Euxine coasts, both of the south-eastern peninsula itself and of the neighbouring land of Asia. The great mainland is barbarian; the islands and a fringe of sea-coast are Greek. As we draw nearer to the boundary of Greece proper, the Hellenic element is strengthened. Thesprotians, Molossians, Chaonians, were at least capable -of becoming Greeks. Epeiros, <span class="greek" title="Êpeiros">Ἤπειρος</span>, <i>terra firma</i>, +of becoming Greeks. Epeiros, <span class="greek" title="Êpeiros">Ἤπειρος</span>, <i>terra firma</i>, once the vague name of an undefined barbarian region, became the name of a Greek federal commonwealth with definite boundaries. And the character of a barbarian @@ -10499,8 +10460,8 @@ first time within the bounds of "continuous Hellas." He may have seen in other lands greater and more speaking monuments of old Hellenic life than any that the island has to show him; he may have seen -the lonely hill of Kymê, the hardly less lonely -temples of Poseidônia; but those were Greece in +the lonely hill of Kymê, the hardly less lonely +temples of Poseidônia; but those were Greece in Italy; now for the first time he sees Greece itself. Whatever we may say of the mainland to the left, there can be no doubt, either now or in ancient times, @@ -10665,10 +10626,10 @@ Rouman principality, though the greatest, is only one among many, and that the latest, of the settlements of this scattered people. And it brings home the fact to us when we see here, in a land where Greek and -Albanian—that is, Hellên and Illyrian—are both at +Albanian—that is, Hellên and Illyrian—are both at home, the third of the great primitive races of the peninsula, the widely spread Thracian kin, the people -of Sitalkês and Kersobleptês, so far away from the +of Sitalkês and Kersobleptês, so far away from the land in which alone political geography acknowledges them.</p> @@ -10679,7 +10640,7 @@ George King of the Greeks, when graven on a five- (new) drachma piece, and held up in the hand of one of the representatives of Corfu in the Greek Parliament. We remember the ancient power of much -smaller coins—<span class="greek" title="hôs mega dynasthon pantachou tô dy' obolô">ὡς μέγα δύνασθον πανταχοῦ τὼ δύ' ὀβολώ</span>—and +smaller coins—<span class="greek" title="hôs mega dynasthon pantachou tô dy' obolô">ὡς μέγα δύνασθον πανταχοῦ τὼ δύ' ὀβολώ</span>—and we begin to doubt whether a smaller sum might not have done the work as well. Anyhow his Hellenic Majesty's countenance, in this attractive shape, acts as @@ -10722,7 +10683,7 @@ settlement, no reconquest, no violent change of any kind. One of the greatest of Greek islands has lost one Greek name and has taken another, without the operation of any of the causes which are said to have -brought about the change of nomenclature in Peloponnêsos. +brought about the change of nomenclature in Peloponnêsos. Crete and Euboia, we may say in passing, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">344</a></span> seem to have changed their names, when in truth they @@ -10735,47 +10696,47 @@ local <i>Korkyra</i> (<span class="greek" title="Korkyra">Κόρ_ again <span class="greek" title="Kerkyra">Κέρκυρα</span>; or rather we cannot say that the city is again <span class="greek" title="Kerkyra">Κέρκυρα</span>, as the modern city never was <span class="greek" title="Kerkyra">Κέρκυρα</span> at all, nor even <span class="greek" title="Korkyra">Κόρκυρα</span>. The modern town of Corfu—in -its best Greek form <span class="greek" title="Koryphô">Κορυφώ</span>—stands on a different +its best Greek form <span class="greek" title="Koryphô">Κορυφώ</span>—stands on a different site from the ancient town of Korkyra, and there can be little doubt that the change of name is connected with the change of site.</p> <p>The legendary history of the island goes up, we need not say, to the Homeric tales. That Korkyra -was the Homeric Scheriê was an accepted article of +was the Homeric Scheriê was an accepted article of faith as early as the days of Thucydides. His casual phrase goes for more than any direct statement. He connects the naval greatness of the Korkyraians of his day with the seafaring fame of the mythical Phaiakians -(<span class="greek" title="nautikô poly proechein estin hote epairomenoi -kai kata tên tôn Phaiakôn proenoikêsin tês Kerkyras -kleos echontôn ta peri tas naus">ναυτικῷ πολὺ προέχειν ἔστιν ὅτε ἐπαιρόμενοι +(<span class="greek" title="nautikô poly proechein estin hote epairomenoi +kai kata tên tôn Phaiakôn proenoikêsin tês Kerkyras +kleos echontôn ta peri tas naus">ναυτικῷ πολὺ προέχειν ἔστιν ὅτε ἐπαιρόμενοι καὶ κατὰ τὴν τῶν Φαιάκων προενοίκησιν τῆς Κερκύρας κλέος ἐχόντων τὰ περὶ τὰς ναῦς</span>). Nearly a thousand years later Prokopios is equally believing, though he goes into some doubts and speculations as to the -position of the isle of Kalypsô. His way of describing +position of the isle of Kalypsô. His way of describing <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">345</a></span> the island should be noticed. With him the island is the Phaiakian land, which is now called -<i>Korkyra</i> (<span class="greek" title="hê Phaiakôn chôra, hê nyn Kerkyra epikaleitai">ἡ Φαιάκων χώρα, ἣ νῦν Κέρκυρα ἐπικαλεῖται</span>). +<i>Korkyra</i> (<span class="greek" title="hê Phaiakôn chôra, hê nyn Kerkyra epikaleitai">ἡ Φαιάκων χώρα, ἣ νῦν Κέρκυρα ἐπικαλεῖται</span>). Against this description we may fairly balance that -of Nikêtas (<span class="greek" title="hê Kerkyraiôn akra, hê nyn epikeklêtai -Koryphô">ἡ Κερκυραίων ἄκρα, ἣ νῦν ἐπικέκληται +of Nikêtas (<span class="greek" title="hê Kerkyraiôn akra, hê nyn epikeklêtai +Koryphô">ἡ Κερκυραίων ἄκρα, ἣ νῦν ἐπικέκληται Κορυφώ</span>), with whom the promontory of the Kerkyraians -is now called <i>Koryphô</i>. The two answer to -each other. To talk of <span class="greek" title="Kerkyraiôn akra">Κερκυραίων ἄκρα</span> was as +is now called <i>Koryphô</i>. The two answer to +each other. To talk of <span class="greek" title="Kerkyraiôn akra">Κερκυραίων ἄκρα</span> was as much an archaism in the eleventh century as to talk -of <span class="greek" title="Phaiakôn chôra">Φαιάκων χώρα</span> was in the sixth. The everyday +of <span class="greek" title="Phaiakôn chôra">Φαιάκων χώρα</span> was in the sixth. The everyday name of the island in the days of Prokopios was still -<span class="greek" title="Korkyra">Κόρκυρα</span> or <span class="greek" title="Kerkyra">Κέρκυρα</span>. In the days of Nikêtas it was -already <span class="greek" title="Koryphô">Κορυφώ</span>.</p> +<span class="greek" title="Korkyra">Κόρκυρα</span> or <span class="greek" title="Kerkyra">Κέρκυρα</span>. In the days of Nikêtas it was +already <span class="greek" title="Koryphô">Κορυφώ</span>.</p> -<p>We put the two phrases of Prokopios and Nikêtas +<p>We put the two phrases of Prokopios and Nikêtas together, because they are turned out as it were from the same mould. But there is no doubt that the change of name had happened a good while before -Nikêtas, and there is some reason to believe that it +Nikêtas, and there is some reason to believe that it was the result of causes which are set forth in the narrative of Prokopios. The earliest mention of Corfu by its present name seems to be that in Liudprand, @@ -10790,7 +10751,7 @@ records. Then doubtless it was that the old city, if it did not at once perish, at least began to decay; a new site began to be occupied; a new town arose, and that new town took a new name from its most remarkable -physical feature, the <span class="greek" title="koryphô">κορυφώ</span>, the two peaks crowned +physical feature, the <span class="greek" title="koryphô">κορυφώ</span>, the two peaks crowned by the citadel, which form the most striking feature in the entrance to the harbour of modern Corfu.</p> @@ -10798,15 +10759,15 @@ the entrance to the harbour of modern Corfu.</p> way, and that is one which perhaps is not likely to present itself to any one out of Corfu itself. The local writer Quirini quotes a single line as from Dionysios -Periêgêtês, which runs thus:—</p> +Periêgêtês, which runs thus:—</p> <p class="blockquot"> -<span class="greek" title="keinên nyn Korphyn nautai diephêmixanto.">κείνην νῦν Κορφὺν ναῦται διεφημίξαντο.</span></p> +<span class="greek" title="keinên nyn Korphyn nautai diephêmixanto.">κείνην νῦν Κορφὺν ναῦται διεφημίξαντο.</span></p> <p>Dionysios is a writer of uncertain date; but he may safely be set down as older than Prokopios. If then he used the later name, and used it in a form more -modern than the <span class="greek" title="Koryphô">Κορυφώ</span> of Nikêtas, the whole argument +modern than the <span class="greek" title="Koryphô">Κορυφώ</span> of Nikêtas, the whole argument would be set aside, and the name of Corfu would be carried back to a much earlier time. But where Quirini got his verse is by no means clear. We have @@ -10815,7 +10776,7 @@ such verse can we find. The only mention of Korkyra is in a verse which runs thus:—</p> <p class="blockquot"> -<span class="greek" title="kai liparê Kerkyra, philon pedon Alkinooio.">καὶ λιπαρὴ Κέρκυρα, φίλον πέδον Ἀλκινόοιο. +<span class="greek" title="kai liparê Kerkyra, philon pedon Alkinooio.">καὶ λιπαρὴ Κέρκυρα, φίλον πέδον Ἀλκινόοιο. </span></p> <p>Nor does the commentator Eustathios say one word as @@ -10832,59 +10793,59 @@ the other, while, as far as the city is concerned, they are strictly the names of two distinct though neighbouring cities, one of which fell as the other rose. And now the question comes, Is the island of -Korkyra the Scheriê of Homer? Is his description -of Scheriê and the city of Alkinoos meant for the +Korkyra the Scheriê of Homer? Is his description +of Scheriê and the city of Alkinoos meant for the description of Korkyra or any part of it, whether the historical city or any other? We must remember that the general witness of antiquity in favour of Korkyra -being Scheriê loses a good deal of its weight when we +being Scheriê loses a good deal of its weight when we consider that the ancient writers felt bound to place -Scheriê somewhere, while no such necessity is laid +Scheriê somewhere, while no such necessity is laid upon us. Bearing this in mind, the plain case seems -to be that it is far more likely that Scheriê was -nowhere at all. In dealing with Scheriê and its inhabitants, +to be that it is far more likely that Scheriê was +nowhere at all. In dealing with Scheriê and its inhabitants, we are not dealing with an entry in the -Catalogue of the Iliad, the Domesday of the Mykênaian +Catalogue of the Iliad, the Domesday of the Mykênaian empire; we are simply dealing with a piece of the romantic geography of the Odyssey. Everything about the Phaiakians and their land reads as if the whole thing was as purely a play of the imagination <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">348</a></span> -as the Kyklôpes and the Laistrygones. It is +as the Kyklôpes and the Laistrygones. It is indeed quite possible that, even in describing purely imaginary lands, a poet may bring in his remembrance of real places, just as the features of a real person may be reproduced in the picture of an imaginary -event. The poet, in painting Scheriê, may +event. The poet, in painting Scheriê, may have brought in bits of local description from Korkyra or from any other place. But that is all. As we read the story, it seems quite as reasonable to look on the map for Nephelokokkygia as to look on the map for -Scheriê. The thinkers of the days of Thucydides or of +Scheriê. The thinkers of the days of Thucydides or of some time before Thucydides, deeming themselves -bound to place Scheriê somewhere, fixed it at Korkyra. +bound to place Scheriê somewhere, fixed it at Korkyra. The reason doubtless was that the Phaiakians are spoken of as the most distant of mankind, far away from any others, and that Korkyra really was for a long time the most distant of Greek settlements in this -region. When Korkyra was once ruled to be Scheriê, +region. When Korkyra was once ruled to be Scheriê, the process of identification naturally went on. Spots received Homeric names. Alkinoos had his grove and his harbour in the historical Korkyra. All this is the common course of legend, and proves nothing for -either geography or history. Yet the tale of Scheriê, -of Alkinoos, Arêtê, and the charming Nausikaa, is not -simply one of the loveliest of tales. Scheriê knew the -use of wheeled carriages; therefore Scheriê had roads. +either geography or history. Yet the tale of Scheriê, +of Alkinoos, Arêtê, and the charming Nausikaa, is not +simply one of the loveliest of tales. Scheriê knew the +use of wheeled carriages; therefore Scheriê had roads. Alkinoos, the head king, was chief over twelve lesser <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">349</a></span> kings. Here we get real history, though history -neither personal nor local. Scheriê itself may safely -be looked for in the moon; but the roads of Scheriê -and the <i>Bretwalda</i> of Scheriê have their place in the +neither personal nor local. Scheriê itself may safely +be looked for in the moon; but the roads of Scheriê +and the <i>Bretwalda</i> of Scheriê have their place in the early history of institutions.</p> -<p>Other names of the island are spoken of, as Drepanê +<p>Other names of the island are spoken of, as Drepanê and Makris, descriptive names which perhaps never were in real use, and which, if they were, were supplanted by the historical name of Korkyra. We must @@ -10901,7 +10862,7 @@ that, from the time of Polybios, perhaps from an earlier time than his, down to the present moment, written Greek has been one thing, and spoken Greek another. Polybios wrote <span class="greek" title="Kerkyra">Κέρκυρα</span>, while its own people -called it <span class="greek" title="Korkyra">Κόρκυρα</span>, just as he wrote <span class="greek" title="Êlis">Ἦλις</span>, while its +called it <span class="greek" title="Korkyra">Κόρκυρα</span>, just as he wrote <span class="greek" title="Êlis">Ἦλις</span>, while its own people called it <span class="greek" title="Walis">Ϝᾶλις</span>. The difference has been thought to have its origin in some joke or sarcasm—some play on <span class="greek" title="kerkos, kerkouros">κέρκος, κέρκουρος</span>, and the like. But the @@ -10909,7 +10870,7 @@ literary form may just as likely be simply a tempting <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">350</a></span> softening of the local form. One point only is to be insisted on, that the syllable <span class="greek" title="Kor">Κορ</span> in <span class="greek" title="Korkyra">Κόρκυρα</span>, and the -syllable <span class="greek" title="Kor">Κορ</span> in <span class="greek" title="Koryphô">Κορυφώ</span>, have nothing to do with one +syllable <span class="greek" title="Kor">Κορ</span> in <span class="greek" title="Koryphô">Κορυφώ</span>, have nothing to do with one another. The latter name is no corruption of the elder; it is a genuine case of one Greek name supplanting another—perhaps rather a case of a Greek @@ -10920,19 +10881,19 @@ implies no change of inhabitants, no change of language. It is a change within the Greek language itself, which can be fully accounted for by historical causes. It therefore teaches that changes of name, -such as the Slavonic theory insists on in Peloponnêsos, +such as the Slavonic theory insists on in Peloponnêsos, though they do often arise from new settlements and reconquests, do also come about in other ways.</p> <p>It is for the mythologist to find out whether Homer had Korkyra in his eye when he described the mythic -Scheriê. This, be it again noted, is a perfectly +Scheriê. This, be it again noted, is a perfectly reasonable subject for inquiry, and in no way implies any historical belief in the legend. It is simply like asking whether the real Glastonbury at all suggested the mythic Avalon. History begins to deal with Korkyra in the eighth century <span class="s05">B.C.</span>, when the settlement -of the Corinthian Chersikratês added the island +of the Corinthian Chersikratês added the island to the Greek world. From that day onward the island has a long and eventful story, reaching down to our <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">351</a></span> @@ -10951,16 +10912,16 @@ We are then brought to the common conditions of a Greek colony, planted, as usual, among pre-existing barbarian inhabitants, and, as Mr. Grote has so strongly enforced, sure to receive a dash of barbarian -blood among some classes of its members. The <i>dêmos</i> +blood among some classes of its members. The <i>dêmos</i> of Korkyra may well have been far from being of pure Hellenic descent—a fact which, if it be so, may go -far to explain the wide difference between the <i>dêmos</i> of -Korkyra and the <i>dêmos</i> of Athens. Since the time of +far to explain the wide difference between the <i>dêmos</i> of +Korkyra and the <i>dêmos</i> of Athens. Since the time of the Corinthian settlement, the island has undergone endless conquests and changes of masters, each of which has doubtless brought with it a fresh infusion into the blood of its inhabitants. But since the time -of Chersikratês there has been nothing like extirpation, +of Chersikratês there has been nothing like extirpation, displacement, or resettlement. Korkyra has ever since been an Hellenic land, though a succession of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">352</a></span> @@ -11033,7 +10994,7 @@ stretching far inland, lies the old Hyllaic harbour, bearing the name of one of the three tribes which seem to have been essential to the being of a Dorian commonwealth. But the physical features of the -country have greatly changed since Chersikratês led +country have greatly changed since Chersikratês led thither his band of settlers twenty-six centuries back. It is plain that both harbours once came much further inland than they do now, that they covered a great @@ -11064,7 +11025,7 @@ great sedition brings out a fact which we should at first sight hardly have expected, the fact that the aristocratic quarter of Korkyra was on the lower ground by the harbour, while the upper part of the -town was occupied by the <i>dêmos</i>. To one who thinks +town was occupied by the <i>dêmos</i>. To one who thinks of Rome, Athens, and ancient cities generally, this seems strange. But arguments from the most ancient class of cities do not fully apply to cities of the colonial class. @@ -11082,7 +11043,7 @@ The impression of the scene becomes more lively when we see not far off an actual ancient tomb remaining in its place, though it could hardly have been the tomb of the forefather of any Epidamnian. This is the -tomb of Menekratês of Oianthê, honoured in this way +tomb of Menekratês of Oianthê, honoured in this way by the people of Korkyra on account of his friendship for their city, a plain round tomb with one of those archaic inscriptions in which Korkyra is rich. Archaic @@ -11097,12 +11058,12 @@ the Appian Way.</p> <p>The position of the quarter of the oligarchs by the modern suburb of Kastrades seems perfectly clear from -Thucydides. The <i>dêmos</i> took refuge in the upper part +Thucydides. The <i>dêmos</i> took refuge in the upper part of the city and held the Hyllaic harbour; the other party held the <i>agora</i>, where most of them dwelled, and the harbour near it and towards the continent -(<span class="greek" title="hoi de tên te agoran katelabon, houper hoi polloi ôkoun -autôn, kai ton limena ton pros autê kai pros tên êpeiron">οἱ δὲ τήν τε ἀγορὰν κατέλαβον, οὗπερ οἱ πολλοὶ ᾤκουν +(<span class="greek" title="hoi de tên te agoran katelabon, houper hoi polloi ôkoun +autôn, kai ton limena ton pros autê kai pros tên êpeiron">οἱ δὲ τήν τε ἀγορὰν κατέλαβον, οὗπερ οἱ πολλοὶ ᾤκουν αὐτῶν, καὶ τὸν λιμένα τὸν πρὸς αὐτῇ καὶ πρὸς τὴν ἤπειρον</span>). <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">357</a></span> @@ -11111,20 +11072,20 @@ Kastrades, looking out on the Albanian mountains, as distinguished from the Hyllaic haven shut in by the hills of Korkyra itself.</p> -<p>But where was the Hêraion, the temple of Hêrê, +<p>But where was the Hêraion, the temple of Hêrê, which plays a part in more than one of the Thucydidean narratives? and where was the island opposite -to the Hêraion—<span class="greek" title="pros to Hêraion">πρὸς τὸ Ἡραῖον</span>—and the isle of +to the Hêraion—<span class="greek" title="pros to Hêraion">πρὸς τὸ Ἡραῖον</span>—and the isle of Ptychia, both of which appear in his history? The answer to the former question seems to turn on -another. Was the present citadel, the true <span class="greek" title="Koryphô">Κορυφώ</span>, +another. Was the present citadel, the true <span class="greek" title="Koryphô">Κορυφώ</span>, itself always an island, as it is now? The present channel is artificial—that is to say, it is made artificial by fortifications—but it may after all have been a natural channel improved by art. And that is the belief of some of the best Corfiote antiquaries. If so, -this may well be the <span class="greek" title="nêsos pros to Hêraion">νῆσος πρὸς τὸ Ἡραῖον</span>, and -Ptychia may be the isle of Vido beyond. The Hêraion +this may well be the <span class="greek" title="nêsos pros to Hêraion">νῆσος πρὸς τὸ Ἡραῖον</span>, and +Ptychia may be the isle of Vido beyond. The Hêraion would thus stand on the north side of the old Korkyra, looking towards the modern city; it would stand in the oligarchic quarter on the low ground near the @@ -11138,14 +11099,14 @@ the Hyllaic harbour. This in course of time became a church, a now ruined church, but which keeps large parts of its Hellenic walls and some windows of beautiful Byzantine brickwork. It seems -hardly possible in any case that the Hêraion could +hardly possible in any case that the Hêraion could have been at quite the further end of the peninsula, -and that the island <span class="greek" title="pros to Hêraion">πρὸς τὸ Ἡραῖον +and that the island <span class="greek" title="pros to Hêraion">πρὸς τὸ Ἡραῖον </span> could be either of the small islands, each containing a church, which keep the entrance of the Hyllaic harbour.</p> -<p>Such then was old Korkyra, the colony of Chersikratês, +<p>Such then was old Korkyra, the colony of Chersikratês, the Korkyra which figures in the tale of Periandros, the Korkyra which played such a doubtful part in the Persian War, which gained so fearful a @@ -11153,12 +11114,12 @@ name in the Peloponnesian War, and which, within two generations, had so thoroughly recovered itself that in the days of Timotheos it struck both friends and enemies by its wealth and flourishing state. It is -the Korkyra of Pyrrhos and Agathoklês, the Korkyra +the Korkyra of Pyrrhos and Agathoklês, the Korkyra which formed one of the first stepping-stones for the Roman to make his way to the Hellenic continent, the Korkyra whose history goes on till the wasting inroad of Totilas. Then, as we hold, ancient Korkyra -on its peninsula began to give way to Koryphô (Corfu) +on its peninsula began to give way to Koryphô (Corfu) on another peninsula or island, that to which the two peaks which form its most marked feature gave its name.</p> @@ -11191,7 +11152,7 @@ distant, but one of the most valuable, of the provinces of the modern Greek kingdom. But Corfu has never for a moment been under the direct rule of the Turk. The proudest memory in the later history of -the island is the defeat of the Turks in 1716. Peloponnêsos, +the island is the defeat of the Turks in 1716. Peloponnêsos, the conquest of Morosini, had again been lost, and the Turk deemed that he might again carry his conquests into the Western seas. The city was @@ -11230,7 +11191,7 @@ the character of an Italian town. It is rich in street arcades; but they present but few architectural features, and we find none of those various forms of ornamental window, so common, not only in Venice -and Verona, but in Spalato, Cattaro, and Traü. The +and Verona, but in Spalato, Cattaro, and Traü. The churches in the modern city are architecturally worthless. They are interesting so far as they will give to many their first impression of Orthodox arrangement @@ -11238,11 +11199,11 @@ and Orthodox ritual. The few ecclesiastical antiquities of the place belong to the elder city. The suburb of the lower slope of the hill contains three churches, all of them small, but each of which has an -interest of its own. Of one, known as <span class="greek" title="hê Panagia tôn -blachernôn">ἡ Παναγία τῶν +interest of its own. Of one, known as <span class="greek" title="hê Panagia tôn +blachernôn">ἡ Παναγία τῶν βλαχερνῶν </span>, we have already spoken; another, known -specially as Our Lady of <i>Oldbury</i> (<span class="greek" title="hê Panagia palaiopoleôs">ἡ Παναγία παλαιοπόλεως</span>), +specially as Our Lady of <i>Oldbury</i> (<span class="greek" title="hê Panagia palaiopoleôs">ἡ Παναγία παλαιοπόλεως</span>), is unattractive enough from any point from which the spectator is likely to see it. Its form is by courtesy called basilican; but, if so, it is like the @@ -11262,19 +11223,19 @@ has further improved the spelling. The spelling is in truth after the manner of Liudprand and the modern shoe-makers of Corfu, and is therefore instructive. At the top come the words of the Psalmist; "This is the -gate of the Lord; the <i>writeous</i> shall enter into it":—<span class="greek" title="hautê -hê pylê tou Kyriou, dikeoi eiseleusontai en autê.">αὕτη +gate of the Lord; the <i>writeous</i> shall enter into it":—<span class="greek" title="hautê +hê pylê tou Kyriou, dikeoi eiseleusontai en autê.">αὕτη ἡ πύλη τοῦ Κυρίου, δίκεοι εἰσελεύσονται ἐν αὐτῇ.</span> Below come four hexameters:—</p> <div class="poem"> <p> -<span class="greek" title="pistin echôn basilian emôn meneôn sunerithon,">πίστιν ἔχων βασίλιαν ἐμῶν μενέων συνέριθον, +<span class="greek" title="pistin echôn basilian emôn meneôn sunerithon,">πίστιν ἔχων βασίλιαν ἐμῶν μενέων συνέριθον, </span></p> <p><span class="greek" title="soi makar hypsimedon tond' hieron ektisa naon,">σοὶ μάκαρ ὑψιμέδον τόνδ' ἱερὸν ἔκτισα ναὸν, </span></p> -<p><span class="greek" title="Hellênôn temenê kai bômous exalapaxas,">Ἑλλήνων τεμένη καὶ βωμοὺς ἐξαλαπάξας,</span> +<p><span class="greek" title="Hellênôn temenê kai bômous exalapaxas,">Ἑλλήνων τεμένη καὶ βωμοὺς ἐξαλαπάξας,</span> </p> -<p><span class="greek" title="cheiros ap' outidanês Iobianos edôken anakti.">χειρὸς ἀπ' οὐτιδανῆς Ἰοβιανὸς ἔδωκεν ἄνακτι.</span> +<p><span class="greek" title="cheiros ap' outidanês Iobianos edôken anakti.">χειρὸς ἀπ' οὐτιδανῆς Ἰοβιανὸς ἔδωκεν ἄνακτι.</span> </p> </div> @@ -11282,7 +11243,7 @@ Below come four hexameters:—</p> zealous as his Imperial namesake; for he cannot be the Emperor himself, as some have thought. He thought it glory and not shame to destroy the works -of the Gentiles—the <span class="greek" title="Hellênes">Ἕλληνες</span>—and to turn them to +of the Gentiles—the <span class="greek" title="Hellênes">Ἕλληνες</span>—and to turn them to the service of the royal faith. But are we to take the "royal faith" in the same sense as the "royal law" of the New Testament? or does it mean the @@ -11305,19 +11266,19 @@ about at Corfu, almost as Corinthian and Composite fragments lie about at Rome. The third church, that which professes to be the oldest in the island, that which bears the name of the alleged apostles of the -island, the Jasôn and Sosipatros of the New Testament, +island, the Jasôn and Sosipatros of the New Testament, is a more successful work. Brought to its present form about the twelfth century by the priest Stephen, as is recorded in two inscriptions on its west front, it is, allowing for some modern disfigurements, an admirable specimen of a small Byzantine church. It will remind him who comes by way of Dalmatia of old -friends at Zara, Spalato, and Traü; but it has the +friends at Zara, Spalato, and Traü; but it has the advantage over them of somewhat greater size, and of standing free and detached, so that the outline of its cross, its single central cupola and its three apses, may be well seen. This church, like most in the -neighbourhood, has a bell-gable—<span class="greek" title="kôdônostasion">κωδωνοστάσιον</span>—with +neighbourhood, has a bell-gable—<span class="greek" title="kôdônostasion">κωδωνοστάσιον</span>—with arches for three bells, of a type which seems to be found of all ages from genuine Byzantine to late <i>Renaissance</i>. @@ -11329,8 +11290,8 @@ found of all ages from genuine Byzantine to late </div> <p>To go back to earlier times, the museum of Corfu -contains an inscription, <span class="greek" title="boustrophêdon">βουστροφηδόν</span> inscription, rivalling -that of Menekratês in its archaism, attached to a +contains an inscription, <span class="greek" title="boustrophêdon">βουστροφηδόν</span> inscription, rivalling +that of Menekratês in its archaism, attached to a Doric capital, of far later workmanship, one would have thought, than the inscription. The building art had clearly outstripped the writing art. The military @@ -11346,7 +11307,7 @@ Venetian remains, we naturally look; still it is well to have something of an intermediate day, something to remind us of the long ages which passed between the revolutions recorded by Polybios and the revolutions -recorded by Nikêtas.</p> +recorded by Nikêtas.</p> <h3>CORFU TO DURAZZO.</h3> <p> @@ -11360,26 +11321,26 @@ is northward. A survey of Greece as Greece would lead us southward and eastward. So would even a complete survey of the subject lands of Venice. For that we must go on to the rest of the western islands, -to not a few points in the Ægæan, to the greater +to not a few points in the Ægæan, to the greater islands of Euboia and Crete, to Saint Mark's own realm of Cyprus, which the Evangelist so strangely inherited from his daughter and her son. Not a few -points of Peloponnêsos for some ages, all Peloponnêsos +points of Peloponnêsos for some ages, all Peloponnêsos for a few years, Athens itself for a moment, comes within the same range. We might write the history of Argos from the Venetian point of view, a point of -view which would shut out the history of Mykênê, +view which would shut out the history of Mykênê, and would look on Tiryns only as <i>Palai-Nauplia</i>, the precursor of Napoli di Romania. But no man could journey through Greece itself with Venice in this way in his thoughts. Far older, far nobler, memories -would press upon him at every moment. The mediæval +would press upon him at every moment. The mediæval <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">366</a></span> history of Greece is a subject which deserves far more attention than it commonly gets, and in that history Venice plays a prominent part. But it is hard, in a -Greek journey, to make the mediæval history primary, -and even in the mediæval history Venice is only one +Greek journey, to make the mediæval history primary, +and even in the mediæval history Venice is only one element among others. A large part of Greece fairly comes under the head of the Subject and Neighbour Lands of Venice; but we cannot bring ourselves to @@ -11422,7 +11383,7 @@ where Europe is still in bondage to Asia. The wrong is an old one, as old as the days when Herodotus put on record how Greek cities for the first time passed under the rule of a barbarian master. From his day, -from times long before his day, from the days of Agamemnôn, +from times long before his day, from the days of Agamemnôn, perhaps from the days of the brave men who lived before him, the same long strife has been going on, the same "eternal Eastern question" has been awaiting @@ -11468,7 +11429,7 @@ Prevesa, where, till almost within our own century, Saint Mark still held his own, hard by the City of Victory of the first Emperor. We remember how Prevesa was torn away from Christendom by the arms -of Ali of Jôannina, and how within the last three years +of Ali of Jôannina, and how within the last three years freedom has been twice promised to her but never given. We leave behind us more famous Parga, where, within the lifetime of many of us, stout hearts could still @@ -11488,27 +11449,27 @@ of freedom might go no further. And as we sail between the home of freedom and the house of bondage, our thoughts overleap the mountain wall. They <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">370</a></span> -fly to the heights where Souli, birth-place of Botzarês, +fly to the heights where Souli, birth-place of Botzarês, is left to the foes against whom it so long and so -stoutly strove. They fly to Jôannina, so long the home of +stoutly strove. They fly to Jôannina, so long the home of light and comparative freedom amid surrounding darkness and bondage, but which now, instead of receiving the twice-promised deliverance, is again thrust back into bondage for a while. We pass on by the High Thunderpeaks, fencing in the land of Chimara, famous in the -wars of Ali. We double the promontory of Glôssa, -and find ourselves in the deep bay of Aulôn, Aulona, +wars of Ali. We double the promontory of Glôssa, +and find ourselves in the deep bay of Aulôn, Aulona, Valona, with the town itself high on its hill, guarding the entrance to the gulf from the other side. Here is a true hill-city, unlike Korkyra, unlike even Buthrotum; but while Korkyra and Buthrotum, each on its -shore, has each its history, Aulôn on its height has +shore, has each its history, Aulôn on its height has none. We pass by the mouths of the great Illyrian rivers, by Aoos and Apsos, and we leave between them the place where once stood Apollonia, another of the paths by which Rome made her way into the Eastern world. At last we find ourselves in another bay, wider, -but not so deep as the bay of Aulôn. Here we look out +but not so deep as the bay of Aulôn. Here we look out on what remains of a city whose earlier name dwells in the memory of every reader of the greatest of Greek historians, a city whose later name, famous through a @@ -11523,7 +11484,7 @@ for the Peloponnesian war. Under its later name of Dyrrhachion or Durazzo it beheld Englishmen and Normans meet in arms, when Englishmen driven from their homes had found a shelter and an honourable -calling in the service of the Eastern Cæsar.</p> +calling in the service of the Eastern Cæsar.</p> <p>The city on which we gaze, though it is only by a figure that we can be said to gaze on the original @@ -11550,7 +11511,7 @@ the name changed from Epidamnos to Dyrrhachion is not clear, nor are the reasons given for the change satisfactory. In practice, Epidamnos is its old Greek name, Dyrrhachion its Roman, Durazzo its -mediæval name. But the name Dyrrhachion can be +mediæval name. But the name Dyrrhachion can be Roman only in usage; the word itself is palpably Greek. In strictness it seems that Epidamnos was the name of the city, and Dyrrhachion the name of the @@ -11571,7 +11532,7 @@ came against it, he said that the city might indeed be knew how to <i>endure</i> (<i>durare</i>). The Norman made his way by this path into the Eastern lands, as the Roman had done before him; but as his course was quicker, -his stay was shorter. Epidamnos, along with Apollônia +his stay was shorter. Epidamnos, along with Apollônia <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">373</a></span> and Korkyra, were the first possessions of Rome east of the Hadriatic. They were possessions of the ruling @@ -11636,7 +11597,7 @@ memorable spot has seen, as masters, as invaders, as defenders, it is the Englishman and the Venetian who can look with most satisfaction on their share in its long history. Englishmen had the honour of guarding -the spot for the Eastern Cæsar; Venice had the +the spot for the Eastern Cæsar; Venice had the honour of being the last Christian champion to guard it against the Ottoman Sultan.</p> @@ -11784,7 +11745,7 @@ more to do. Before us, behind us, are lands to which England, and England only, has given freedom. A day must come when, what England has done for Corfu, for Arta, and for Dulcigno, she must do for -Jôannina and for Durazzo.</p> +Jôannina and for Durazzo.</p> <h3>ANTIVARI.</h3> <p> @@ -11896,7 +11857,7 @@ state of things which planted the oldest Argos, even the oldest Corinth, on mountain peaks some way from their own coasts. The inaccessible height had again come to be looked on as a source of strength. Antivari -may take its place alongside of the mediæval Syra, +may take its place alongside of the mediæval Syra, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">385</a></span> the Latin town covering its own peaked hill—a <i>mons acutus</i>, a Montacute, by the shore—while the oldest @@ -11940,7 +11901,7 @@ of some classes of causes should be referred to the courts of Ragusa. Such a settlement, though taking another and more dangerous form, is the same in principle as the favourite Italian custom of choosing -a foreign <i>podestà</i>, as the earlier usage by which cities +a foreign <i>podestà </i>, as the earlier usage by which cities which had won their independence in all other points were still willing to receive a criminal judge of the Emperor's naming. In all these cases alike, the @@ -11973,7 +11934,7 @@ minarets, several of them shattered, remind us that we are drawing near to a city which has been won for Christendom from Islam, as a nearer view reminds us that it is a city which had before been won for -Islam from Christendom. We halt at a small <i>café</i> +Islam from Christendom. We halt at a small <i>café</i> outside the walls, where we receive a friendly greeting from the representatives of Montenegrin authority in the new conquest. Here too is the club and @@ -12208,384 +12169,6 @@ LONDON:<br /> PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,<br /> STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.</p> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches from the Subject and -Neighbour Lands of Venice, by Edward A. 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