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diff --git a/40390-0.txt b/40390-0.txt index 3181d12..15fd5d3 100644 --- a/40390-0.txt +++ b/40390-0.txt @@ -1,27 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cathedral Cities of France, by -Herbert Marshall and Hester Marshall - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Cathedral Cities of France - -Author: Herbert Marshall - Hester Marshall - -Release Date: August 1, 2012 [EBook #40390] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CITIES OF FRANCE *** - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40390 *** Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This ebook was @@ -7409,366 +7386,4 @@ Lancelot, M., discovery regarding the Bayeux tapestry, 113-114. {index} End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Cathedral Cities of France, by Herbert Marshall and Hester Marshall -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CITIES OF FRANCE *** - -***** This file should be named 40390-0.txt or 40390-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/3/9/40390/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This ebook was -produced from scanned images of public domain material at -Internet Archive.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Cathedral Cities of France - -Author: Herbert Marshall - Hester Marshall - -Release Date: August 1, 2012 [EBook #40390] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CITIES OF FRANCE *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This ebook was -produced from scanned images of public domain material at -Internet Archive.) - - - - - - - -[Certain typographical errors have been corrected (see list at the end -of this etext.). Except for a few normalizations, the spelling of French -words and names has not been corrected, but left as the writer wrote -them.] - - - - -CATHEDRAL CITIES OF FRANCE - -[Illustration: LÂON, VIEW FROM THE PLAIN] - - - - -CATHEDRAL CITIES - -OF FRANCE - -BY - -HERBERT MARSHALL, R.W.S. - -AND - -HESTER MARSHALL - -WITH SIXTY ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR - -BY HERBERT MARSHALL, R.W.S. - -[Illustration] - -TORONTO - -THE MUSSON BOOK CO., Limited - -1907 - -COPYRIGHT, 1907, BY -DODD, MEAD & COMPANY -_Published September, 1907_ - - - - -NOTE - - -The following chapters are the result of notes put together during -summers spent in France in the course of the last five years. They are -not intended to mark out any particular geographical scheme, though -considered as isolated suggestions they may possibly prove useful to the -intending traveller; nor do they aim at covering all the Cathedral -cities of France. - -The authors are indebted for much valuable help from the following -books: Viollet-le-Duc’s “Dictionnaire de l’Architecture”; Mr. Phené -Spiers’s “Architecture East and West”; Mr. Francis Bond’s “Gothic -Architecture in England”; Mr. Henry James’s “Little Tour in France”; Mr. -Cecil Headlam’s “Story of Chartres”; Freeman’s “History of the Norman -Conquest” and “Sketches of French Travel”; Dr. Whewell’s “Notes on a -Tour in Picardy and Normandy”; M. Guilhermy’s “Itineraire archéologique -de Paris”; M. Hoffbauer’s “Paris à travers les ages”; M. Enlart’s -“Architecture Réligieuse”; Mr. Walter Lonergan’s “Historic Churches of -Paris”; the “Chronicles” of Froissart and Monstrelet; and to the letters -in _The Times_ of its war correspondent, 1870 and 1871. - -H. M. M. and H. M. - - - - -CONTENTS - - -CHAPTER PAGE - -I A FRENCH CATHEDRAL CITY 1 - -II BOULOGNE TO AMIENS 15 - -III LÂON, RHEIMS, AND SOISSONS 38 - -IV ROUEN 62 - -V EVREUX AND LISIEUX 88 - -VI BAYEUX 104 - -VII ST. LÔ AND COUTANCES 128 - -VIII LE MANS 151 - -IX ANGERS 169 - -X TOURS AND BLOIS 181 - -XI CHARTRES 201 - -XII ORLÉANS, BOURGES, AND NEVERS 218 - -XIII MOULINS, LIMOGES, AND PÉRIGUEUX 245 - -XIV ANGOULÊME AND POITIERS 267 - -XV LA ROCHELLE AND BORDEAUX 281 - -XVI SENS, AUXERRE, AND TROYES 299 - -XVII MEAUX, SENLIS, AND BEAUVAIS 324 - -XVIII PARIS AND SOME OF ITS CHURCHES 348 - -INDEX 385 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - -Lâon: view from the plain _Frontispiece_ - -St. Martin, Lâon _Facing Page_ 2 - -The Quayside, Amiens " " 6 - -A Street in Perigueux " " 10 - -The Porte Gayole, Boulogne " " 16 - -Abbeville " " 24 - -The Place Vogel, Amiens " " 28 - -Evening on the Somme at Amiens " " 32 - -The Ramparts, Lâon " " 42 - -Lâon from the Boulevards " " 48 - -Rheims " " 54 - -Soissons " " 58 - -Rouen from the River " " 68 - -Rue de l’Horloge, Rouen " " 78 - -Rue St. Romain, Rouen " " 84 - -Evreux " " 90 - -The Towers of Evreux " " 96 - -St. Jacques, Lisieux " " 100 - -A Street Corner, Bayeux " " 110 - -Bayeux from the Meadows " " 122 - -St. Lô " " 130 - -The Cathedral Front, St. Lô " " 134 - -Coutances " " 140 - -The South Porch of the Cathedral, Coutances " " 146 - -St. Pierre, Coutances " " 152 - -Le Mans " " 158 - -Nôtre Dame de la Coûture, Le Mans " " 164 - -Angers " " 176 - -Tour de l’Horloge, Tours " " 184 - -St. Gatieu, Tours " " 188 - -Blois " " 194 - -Chartres from the North " " 202 - -Chartres " " 208 - -Rue de la Porte Guillaume, Chartres " " 212 - -Orléans " " 220 - -The House of Jacques Cœur, Bourges " " 224 - -Bourges " " 228 - -The Musée Cujas, Bourges " " 232 - -The Hôtel-de-Ville, Nevers " " 236 - -The Port du Croux, Nevers " " 240 - -Moulins " " 248 - -Limoges " " 254 - -Perigueux from the River " " 258 - -St. Front, Périgueux " " 262 - -Angoulême " " 270 - -Poitiers " " 274 - -Entrance to the Harbour, La Rochelle " " 282 - -The Harbour of La Rochelle " " 286 - -Bordeaux " " 294 - -Sens " " 302 - -St. Germain, Auxerre " " 306 - -The Bridge and Cathedral, Auxerre " " 310 - -A Street in Troyes " " 316 - -Meaux " " 326 - -The Old Mills at Meaux " " 330 - -Senlis " " 338 - -The Pont Marie, Paris " " 350 - -Nôtre Dame, Paris " " 366 - -St. Germain des Prés, Paris " " 372 - -Pont St. Michel and Ste. Chapelle, Paris " " 378 - - - - -Chapter One - -A FRENCH CATHEDRAL CITY - - -There are in France to-day three distinct classes of cities--one might -even add, of cathedral cities--and as the bishopric is a dignity far -more usual in France than in England, “cathedral” may serve for the -present as a term inclusive of many towns. - -Firstly, there is the town whose local importance has remained unchanged -through a succession of centuries and an eventful history, which has -added a modern importance to that bequeathed to it by Time. Such towns -are Le Mans, Angers, Amiens and Rouen. Secondly, we find the towns whose -glory has departed, but who still preserve the outward semblance of that -glory, though they remind us in passing through them of a body without a -spirit, of an empty house, whose inhabitants are long dead and have left -behind them only the echoes of their past footsteps. These towns are a -picturesque group, and if we go back upon the centuries, we shall find -in them the centre of much that has made history for our modern eyes to -read. Look at Chartres and Bayeux, and Lâon and Troyes, for embodiments -of this type. And lastly, there are the cities which exactly reverse the -foregoing state of affairs, and owe their growth to the kindly fostering -of a later age--an age which has learnt wisdom more quickly than its -predecessors, and has learnt, moreover, to love the whirr of engines and -the busy paths of commerce more than the safe keeping of ancient -monuments and the reading of history in the worn greyness of their -stones. Among these we may count Havre; but of this class it is more -difficult to find examples in France, although in England the north -country is thick with such mushroom cities. - -[Illustration: ST. MARTIN, LÂON] - -The history of the growth of one Gaulish town may easily serve for that -of another: later days decided its continued importance or its gradual -decay, as the case might be; and, as Freeman points out in his essay -upon French and English towns, “the map of Roman Gaul survives, with but -few and those simple changes in the ecclesiastical map of France down to -the great Revolution.” Thus the history of these cities affected -themselves alone and not, to any great extent, the lands in which they -stood. It is a salient testimony to the lasting influence of ancient -Gaul that in most town-names some trace can be found of the old name, -either of the tribe which inhabited it, or of the territory belonging to -that tribe; and even under the Roman rule the Gallic forms did not -entirely disappear. Later, when the Franks came from the East, one would -suppose that they had names of their own for the conquered cities; but -if this were the case, these names have not come down to us--all of -which goes to show that the Frankish dominion, though it lasted on, and -gave to the land her ablest dynasty of kings, had no real rooted -influence in the country, and that France, as relating to ancient Gaul, -is a formal and almost an empty title. - -The Gallic cities owed their origin in the earliest times, naturally, to -their situation. The roving tribes, looking for a settlement, would -choose a camping ground either on a rocky hill, where they could safely -entrench themselves against a possible enemy, or on an island in the -midst of a river or marsh, where the surrounding fens would be an -efficient safeguard; and it speaks well for their choice, that when the -Romans came, skilled in the knowledge of war, offensive and defensive, -they did not destroy the settlements of the conquered tribes, but -rebuilt and fortified them according to the inimitable pattern of Rome, -not effacing but improving what was already to hand. Instead of the rude -Gallic huts, stately palaces rose up, with their marble baths; -aqueducts threw a succession of arches to the nearest water source, -theatres sloped up the hill-side, bridges crossed the river, and where -the grottoes of the Druidic or other primitive faiths had been, rose the -columns and friezes of splendid temples to Jupiter and Diana and Apollo. -Certainly it was a change for the better; and the appearance of many of -these towns under the Cæsars was probably much more imposing, though -perhaps less picturesque, than that which they presented in mediæval -days. In the later Roman era a new element introduces itself. From the -early Christian Church at Rome come missionary saints; not saints in -those days, but often the poorest and meanest of the brethren, charged -with a message to Gaul--Hilary, Martin, Dionysius, and the others. -Fierce conflicts follow, persecutions, burnings, martyrdoms--Dionysius -bears witness at Lutetia, Savinian and Potentian at Sens--and at last -the first church arises within the city, poor and meagre very often in -comparison with the huge pagan temples which it replaces, but loved and -venerated by the faithful few, and, best of all, the origin of the grand -cathedrals which are now the glory of France. “The votaries of the new -creed found a home within the walls of their seats of worship such as -the votaries of the elder creed had never found within theirs. And -around the church arose the dwellings of the bishop and his clergy, a -class of men destined to play no small part in the history of the land.” -In the Christian city, then, we can begin to trace the beginnings of the -mediæval city. Other foundations sprang up in time within the walls--a -baptistery was built, as at Aix and Poitiers, to meet the needs of the -flocks of converts; other churches perpetuated the memory of some saint; -among the river meadows some royal or saintly founder saw a fitting spot -for a convent, and the abbey church arose, with its cloisters, -dormitories and refectories, and all the other fair buildings in which -the early brothers took such a loving pride. Then the bishop himself, -with his dignity growing as the Christian faith advanced, must be housed -as befitted a deputy of the Holy See; and forthwith sprang up those -lordly _évêchés_ which even now serve to remind us of their ancient -beauty, though in some cases the civil arm has taken them over, and -converted them into hôtels de ville. Then came the barbarian inroads, -first of Vandals, Huns, Franks and the rest, next of Normans. These -attacked, but could not destroy, or even permanently harm, the position -of the city; and when the invaders had either gone their way or settled -down in the land, new elements of strength and importance were added to -the township: castles and strongholds were built up for the great men -who had taken possession of the chief cities, and the great civil or -feudal power of the dukes and counts began to exercise its jurisdiction -side by side with the old-established influence of the Church. Then, as -was notably the case at Le Mans and Troyes, the growing commercial -importance of a town would force a communal charter from the seigneur; a -burgher quarter would rise, quite as important as the quarter of the -nobles and the clergy, and thus the city would become trebly -strengthened, except, indeed, when, as was sometimes the case, one power -resented the fancied encroachments of the other and made war upon its -neighbours. - -[Illustration: THE QUAYSIDE, AMIENS] - -This power within itself was undoubtedly all to the advantage of the -city; but it was fatal to the unity of the kingdom, since it cut France -up into a mass of separate states, any one of which could, on the -occasion of a quarrel with the sovereign--and these quarrels were rather -the rule than the exception--fortify itself by means of its count, its -castle and its city walls, and defy the royal forces at its pleasure. -While cathedral cities in England were drawing closer and closer to the -king as their head, and thereby sinking their own strength in the unity -of the Crown, those in France were striving at a power apart from the -Crown, or, rather, striving to maintain a power which the Crown had -never yet been able to incorporate with itself. Thus a city of France -has a much more varied, a much more individual history than has the -sister city in England; a story less bound up as part of the great whole -of the history of the French kingdom, more concentrated within its own -walls, and therefore more tangible, if it be desired to study it -irrespective of that whole history. This, then, is the story of its -growth from almost pre-historic days. Whether, as an individual city, it -flourished after the Middle Ages had fortified and strengthened it, or -whether it fell into a state of quiet, picturesque and peaceful decay, -depended of course upon particular circumstances, but enough remains to -make of the general history of the French city a fascinating though -almost inexhaustible study, only surpassed by the study of each town in -its separate case. - -[Illustration: A STREET IN PÉRIGUEUX] - -Wars and revolutions have done their best to destroy what Time had -kindly tried to preserve for our delight; nevertheless, a cathedral town -in France of to-day is a very pleasant place, and offers exceptional -opportunity for the study of French life in almost every aspect. Our -business here, however, is with the cathedrals and the historical side -of the town, rather than with the lighter points of view; and such -things as every traveller will encounter in the course of his journeys, -the crowd outside the _cafés_, the weekly markets, the festivals, civil -and ecclesiastical, the quaint ways and speech of the peasant folk and -the _contretemps_ of hotel life have not only been described before, -times without number, but are such as will be fairly obvious to the -average observer, and, if he has never travelled before, will come all -the more as a pleasant surprise if he is left to find them out for -himself. If, as is more likely to be the case in this enlightened age, -he is an experienced traveller, he will know them all by heart, and -perhaps be inclined to cavil at having them set before him once again in -a light which could not pretend to any novelty. - - - - -Chapter Two - -BOULOGNE TO AMIENS - - -Boulogne is perhaps too near the starting point to arrest the -outward-bound traveller; he ranks it with Calais, Dieppe, and Havre, as -a place to be passed through as quickly as possible; and the splendid -train service to Paris naturally makes him hesitate to break his journey -at Boulogne. The general tendency in England is to despise the French -railway service, and some guide-books even now tell us that the average -speed of a French express is from thirty-five to forty-five miles an -hour, also that the trains invariably pass each other on the left-hand -side. As a matter of fact, all the main lines follow the same rule of -the road which obtains in England, and as to average speed, the run from -Calais to Paris equals, if it does not exceed, that of any long-distance -train-service in our own country, covering the distance of 185 miles at -the rate of fifty-six miles an hour. - -As a seaport and fishing centre, Boulogne is one of the most interesting -and important towns in France; and its fishing-boats sail out in great -numbers to the North Sea for the cod fishery along the north coast of -Scotland. When the herring fishing begins, Boulogne adds its contingent -to the fleets of Cornwall, to the luggers of the West Coast, and to the -cobbles of Whitby; and on the eve of the departure to the -fishing-ground, the fisherman’s quarter, known as La Beurière, is alive -with the orgies of its sailor population. Dancing takes place on the -quays, and short entertainments are held in an improvised theatre, while -the rich brown-ochre sails of the splendid luggers and smacks are -stretched from deck to deck, forming an awning under which the owners -and captains meet together with their friends to wish success to the -undertaking of those who “go down to the sea in ships, and occupy their -business in great waters.” - -Boulogne has the reputation of being the most Anglicised of French -towns, and was in years gone by often associated with the seamy side of -society. Many a stranger found here a convenient refuge, and Mr. -Deuceace and other of Thackeray’s heroes enjoyed the sea breezes of -Boulogne after the mental strain of somewhat questionable financial -manœuvres. - -[Illustration: THE PORTE GAYOLE, BOULOGNE] - -The city walls, restored in the sixteenth or seventeenth century, -date back to 1231, and were built on the foundations of the ancient town -of Bononia, generally identified with the Roman Gesoriacum, though not -on very reliable authority. From its position on the high grassy cliffs -of Picardy, guarding the little river Liane and looking out over the -waves to the white line of the English shore, Boulogne in other days had -an importance quite distinct from that which we now assign to it. The -Viking sailing down the English Channel saw it as one of the outposts of -a new and fair land open to the conquest of fire and sword, and in his -primitive fashion of asserting the mastery, destroyed the city on the -cliff. Later on, these ravages were made good under the rule of Rolf, -the “Ganger,” by this time master of Neustria; the city was restored and -became the head of a countship, which dignity it retained until late in -the fifteenth century, when Louis XI. cast envious eyes upon it, and by -a stroke of craft approaching near to genius, united it to the crown of -France, declaring the Blessed Virgin to be patroness of the town and -himself her humble vassal, holding it under her suzerainty, which no man -in France dared to deny. Henry VIII. laid siege to Boulogne in 1544 and -gained it for England; but the day of English prestige in France had -gone by, and her right of possession was of very short duration, for in -the next reign Boulogne was given back to France, and Calais alone -remained to England of the spoils of the Hundred Years’ War. - -Above the present town rises the monument known as the “Colonne de la -Grande Armée,” a memorial of the first Napoleon’s encampment at Boulogne -in 1804, and of his magnificent preparations for the invasion of -England. In the Château, which dates from the thirteenth century and is -now used as barracks, Napoleon III. was confined after his abortive -descent upon the town in 1840. It was the second of these desperate -attempts to dethrone the “constitutional king” Louis Philippe and -reinstate the Imperial dynasty. The expedition to Strasburg four years -before had at least been attended by this much success, that the young -aspirant was enthusiastically welcomed by the military portion of the -population; but the descent upon Boulogne, planned at the time when the -body of the first Emperor was being brought from St. Helena to Paris, -was a failure from first to last. The little band of conspirators, about -fifty in number, with their tame eagle--a symbol of the Imperial -power--landed at the port, but found no adherents, and within a few -hours of their landing were under arrest. Napoleon himself underwent -trial before the Chamber of Peers, and after a short imprisonment, as -we have seen, in the Château, was sent to the castle of Ham-sur-Somme. - -Three out of the four original gates of the ancient city still remain, -notably the Porte Gayole, the rooms in whose flanking towers were at one -time used as prisons. In the room above the gateway were formerly held -the meetings of the _Guyale_, a _réunion_ of ancient associations of -merchants--what would now be called a chamber of commerce--and from this -the gate-house was called Porte Gayole. - -Of the cathedral at Boulogne it is difficult to speak with any -enthusiasm. It stands as a memorial of the Renaissance work of that -period which we should call early Victorian; but like so many modern -churches, it possesses an ancient crypt, part of which belongs to the -twelfth century, showing that the foundations at least are those of a -Gothic church, which was probably destroyed during the Revolution. - -On the journey to Amiens the train passes through Abbeville on the -Somme, a place some sixty years ago sacred to geologists, who, led by -the distinguished Boucher de Perthes, Prestwick and Evans, extracted -from the river bed and neighbouring peat and undisturbed gravels, not -only remains of beaver, bear, &c., but also innumerable hand-fashioned -flints and stone hatchets, and made the valley of the Somme up to Amiens -and St. Acheul classic ground to the antiquary and an object of -pilgrimage to the student of pre-historic man. - -In the early days of the Frank kings this quiet little town upon the -Somme had acquired enough importance for fortification, and its city -walls were built by Hugh Capet. Later on, after Peter the Hermit had -lifted up his voice in Europe, and every man who called himself a true -warrior turned his face eastward to Palestine, Abbeville was destined to -play her part in the affairs of the great world outside her walls, and -to share in the fortunes of that company of men whose watchword was -“Jerusalem.” In the first two Crusades, when the crusading spirit was as -yet ardent and pure and had not degenerated into a desire for plunder -and rapine, the leaders met within the gates of Abbeville before setting -out to the Holy Land. - -One can well imagine the stir their presence made within the quiet -precincts of the little town, the excitement of the townfolk, the eager -crowding of the youth of the place around the standards of these great -chiefs, Godfrey de Bouillon, destined to become king of Jerusalem; dark, -passionate Robert of Normandy, son of the Conqueror; Hugh of -Vermandois, brother to the King of France; Stephen of Blois; Raymond of -Toulouse; Robert of Flanders, he who was called the “Sword and Lance of -the Christians”; and, lastly, Tancred the chivalrous, the very -embodiment of the spirit of the crusaders--and a “very perfect, gentle -knight.” - -For nearly two hundred years the English ruled Abbeville. When, in 1272, -Eleanor of Castile was married to Prince Edward, afterwards Edward I., -the town was included in the estates which she brought to England as her -dowry; and being near the sea coast, and consequently within easy reach -of England, its new lords were able to retain their hold upon the city -even after the disastrous close of the Hundred Years’ War had given -almost every English conquest back to France. Towards the end of the -fifteenth century it fell into the hands of the Burgundian party, but -the French crown finally reclaimed it in 1477. Since that time it has -twice seen an international alliance concluded within its gates. In -1514, Anne of Brittany, the wife of Louis XII.--“Pater Patria”--died -without having an heir in the direct line, and her husband, unwilling -that the crown should go to François d’Angoulême, determined to take -another wife, and made advances to Henry VIII. for the hand of his -beautiful sister, Mary Tudor; and after the negotiations were completed, -they were married at Abbeville. As far as Louis’s purpose went, however, -the marriage was a failure, as the King died a few months later, and the -Duc d’Angoulême, his son-in-law, ascended his throne as François Ier. -To his reign belongs the second alliance in the history of Abbeville, -the pact signed between the King of France and Cardinal Wolsey, on -behalf of Henry VIII., against the common enemy, Charles V.--a figure so -commanding, so infinitely greater than his contemporaries, that beside -him the brilliancy of François, the gallantry of Henry, and the pomp and -magnificence of his favourite Wolsey, seemed entirely eclipsed, and the -three men appear almost as puppets, unstable and vacillating, now the -closest of friends, and now the bitterest of enemies. - -Abbeville still maintains many of the old picturesque landmarks which -made it a favourite sketching ground for Prout and for Ruskin. The -market-place is surrounded by a number of houses with high pitched -gables, coloured in various tints of white, grey and pale green. Some -beautiful drawings by Ruskin, executed in pencil and tint, which have -lately been exhibited to the public, bear testimony to its -picturesqueness, of which a great deal still remains in the side -streets and along the river front. - -[Illustration: ABBEVILLE] - -The church of St. Wolfran is late Flamboyant, and is looked upon by -Ruskin as “a wonderful proof of the fearlessness of a living -architecture,” for, say what one will of it, that Flamboyant of France, -however morbid, was as vivid and intense in its imagination as ever any -phase of mortal mind. The nave consists of bays having a high clerestory -and a triforium screened by rich sixteenth century carving. The ribs of -the vaulting fall sheer down without imposts or break of any kind. The -low chancel and eastern termination of the church are unworthy of the -splendid carving of the western façade. - -The approach to Amiens offers no _coup d’œil_ of clustering towers or -spires such as an English or Norman cathedral city usually gives us, and -the Cathedral itself is hidden as we pass into the heart of the town -along the Rue des Trois Cailloux, a street which is said to follow the -alignment of the old city walls. Ruskin advises the traveller, however -short his time may be, to devote it, not to the contemplation of arches -and piers and coloured glass, but to the woodwork of the chancel, which -he considers the most beautiful carpenter’s work of the Flamboyant -period. Note should be taken of two windows in the Chapel of the -Cardinal de la Grange, built about 1375. These are very interesting as -foreshadowing in their detail that style of architecture--the -Flamboyant--which obtained in France in the fifteenth century and was -contemporaneous with the English Perpendicular. - -The two western towers look little more than heavily built buttresses, -and as towers are not very appropriate in design, being not square, but -oblong in plan. They rise little above the ridge line of the nave, whose -crossing with the transepts is marked by a beautiful _flèche_, which -Ruskin, however, describes as “merely the caprice of a village -carpenter.” As he further declares, the Cathedral of Amiens is “in -dignity inferior to Chartres, in sublimity to Beauvais, in decorative -splendour to Rheims, and in loveliness of figure sculpture to Bourges,” -yet it fully deserves the name given to it by Viollet-le-Duc--“The -Parthenon of Gothic architecture.” - -[Illustration: THE PLACE VOGEL, AMIENS] - -The height of the nave and aisles is, according to Mr. Francis Bond in -his book “Gothic Architecture in England,” respectively nearly three -times their span, and the vastness of the fenestration is very striking, -particularly in the clerestory, through whose lower mouldings the -triforium is negotiated, thus dividing each bay into two storeys, -clerestory and pier arch, instead of into three, clerestory triforium -and pier arch. This gives the effect after which the French architect -strove: one vast blaze of light and colour through the upper windows, -coming not only from the clerestory, but from the glazed triforium also; -the magnificent deep blue glass typifying the splendour of the heavens. -On the other hand, in a sunny clime, builders cared less for light, and -preferred the effect of a blind triforium which throws the choir below -into gloomy and mysterious shadow. Thus we see that upon the design of -the triforium depends to a very great extent the effect of the light and -shade of the interior of a great church. - -Once, being personally conducted by the dean over one of the cathedrals -of the west of England, the writer was suddenly called upon to give the -derivation of “triforium.” The word is applied to the ambulatory or -passage, screened by an arcade, which runs between the pier arches and -clerestory windows, and is considered to refer to the three openings, or -spaces, _trinæ fores_, into which the arcading was sometimes divided. It -probably has nothing to do with openings in multiples of three, nor with -a Latinised form of “thoroughfare,” as suggested in Parker’s Glossary, -although the main idea is that of a passage running round the inside of -a church, either as at Westminster, in the form of an ambulatory -chamber, or of a gallery pierced through the main walls, from whence the -structure can be inspected without the trouble of using ladders or -erecting scaffolding. M. Enlart in his “Manuel d’Archéologie Française,” -derives the word from a French adjective “trifore,” or “trifoire,” -through the Latin “transforatus,” a passage pierced through the -thickness of the wall; and this idea of a passage-way is certainly -suggested by an old writer, Gervase, who, in his description of the new -Cathedral of Canterbury, rebuilt after the fire, alludes to the -increased number of passages round the church under the word “triforia.” -“Ibi triforium unum, hic duo in choro, et in alâ ecclesiæ tercium.” - -On the north side of the Cathedral flows the Somme, and there is perhaps -no better means of realising the great height and mass of the building -than by walking along the river banks, whence we see the old houses, -great and small, rise tier above tier under the quiet grey outline of -this “giant in repose.” - -[Illustration: EVENING ON THE SOMME AT AMIENS] - -In an extract from his private diary Ruskin gives the following -description of this walk along the river, showing it in an aspect at -once squalid and picturesque: “Amiens, May 11th.--I had a happy walk -here this afternoon, down among the branching currents of the Somme: it -divides into five or six, shallow, green, and not over-wholesome; -some quite narrow and foul, running beneath clusters of fearful houses, -reeling masses of rotten timber; and a few mere stumps of pollard willow -sticking out of the banks of soft mud, only retained in shape of bank by -being shored up with timbers; and boats like paper boats, nearly as thin -at least, for the costermongers to paddle about in among the weeds, the -water soaking through the lath bottoms, and floating the dead leaves -from the vegetable baskets with which they were loaded. Miserable little -back yards, opening to the water, with steep stone steps down to it, and -little platforms for the ducks; and separate duck staircases, composed -of a sloping board with cross bits of wood leading to the ducks’ doors; -and sometimes a flower-pot or two on them, or even a flower--one group, -of wall-flowers and geraniums, curiously vivid, being seen against the -darkness of a dyer’s backyard, who had been dyeing black, and all was -black in his yard but the flowers, and they fiery and pure; the water by -no means so, but still working its way steadily over the weeds, until it -narrowed into a current strong enough to turn two or three windmills, -one working against the side of an old Flamboyant Gothic church, whose -richly traceried buttresses sloped down into the filthy stream; all -exquisitely picturesque, and no less miserable. We delight in seeing -the figures in these boats, pushing them about the bits of blue water, -in Prout’s drawings; but as I looked to-day at the unhealthy face and -melancholy mien of the man in the boat pushing his load of peat along -the ditch, and of the people, men as well as women, who sat spinning -gloomily at the cottage doors, I could not help feeling how many persons -must pay for my picturesque subject and happy walk.” - -In his “Miscellaneous Studies” Walter Pater says: “The builders of the -Church seem to have projected no very noticeable towers; though it is -conventional to regret their absence, especially with visitors from -England, where indeed cathedral and other towers are apt to be good and -really make their mark.... The great western towers are lost in the west -front, the grandest, perhaps the earliest, of its species--three -profound sculptured portals; a double gallery above, the upper gallery -carrying colossal images of twenty-two kings of the house of Judah, -ancestors of our Lady; then the great rose; above it the singers’ -gallery, half marking the gable of the nave, and uniting at their -topmost storeys the twin, but not exactly equal or similar towers, oddly -oblong in plan as if meant to carry pyramids or spires. In most cases, -those early Pointed churches are entangled, here and there, by the -construction of the old round-arched style, the heavy, Norman or other, -Romanesque chapel or aisle, side by side, though in strange contrast, -with the soaring new Gothic nave or transept. But the older manner of -the round arch, the _plein-cintre_, Amiens has nowhere or almost -nowhere, a trace. The Pointed style, fully pronounced, but in all the -purity of its first period, found here its completest expression.” - - - - -Chapter Three - -LÂON, RHEIMS AND SOISSONS - - -“We passed Lâon in the dark,” is a confession frequently made by -travellers. The Geneva express used to stop here for dinner, and during -the brief interval allowed for coffee and cigarettes many a traveller -has gazed up at the great buttressed hill, silhouetted against a -twilight sky, and wondered what manner of place it might be, -half-fortress, half-church, rising some three hundred and fifty feet out -of the plain with its crest of towers and houses. - -If Paris is the type of the island cities of Gaul, surely Lâon may be -called the type of the hill cities. “Lâon is the very pride of that -class of town which out of Gaulish hill-forts grew into Roman and -mediæval cities. None stands so proudly on its height; none has kept its -ancient character so little changed to our own day. The town still keeps -itself within the walls which fence in the hill-top, and whatever there -is of suburb has grown up at the foot, apart from the ancient city.” - -Geologically, Lâon is a limestone island in the denuded plain of -Soissonais and Béarnais, and was a Celtic stronghold, as its name, a -contraction of _Laudunum_, shows, _dun_ standing for a hill fortress. -The town resembles in plan a blunt crescent, one horn of which is -occupied by the cathedral and citadel. An electric railway connects the -upper with the lower town, and a street from the market-place leads -through the Parvis to the very beautiful west façade of the church. -Cathedral, strictly speaking, it is no longer, for at Lâon we have -another of those instances, always somewhat melancholy, of a deserted -bishopstool. Here it is almost more pathetic, when we remember that the -Bishop of Lâon was second in importance only to the Archbishop of Rheims -himself, and, going back to the days of William Longsword, we find Lâon -not only a bishopric, but a capital town--one of the great trio of -cities which ruled northern France and fought amongst themselves for the -chief mastery. There was the Duke of Paris in his capital; there was the -Duke of the Normans, an outsider who by force of arms had settled at -Rouen, and was a source of continual trembling to the Parisian duchy; -and there was the King of the Franks on the hill-top at Lâon, nominally -suzerain of both the others, but really in daily fear lest one or other, -or both, should swoop down and storm his hill-fortress and add the -royal city of Lâon to lands which in those days went to any man who -could get possession of them. - -Tradition says that St. Béat, who lived towards the close of the third -century, gathered his faithful together in a small chapel hewn out of -the rock, over which was built later on the cathedral church of Notre -Dame. This church, according to M. Daboval, seems to have been still in -existence in the fifth century, and was even then of sufficient -importance to attract thither many scholars who wished to study the Holy -Scriptures. In the twelfth century the cathedral, Bishop’s palace, and -many other churches were burnt down, owing to communal troubles during -the bishopric of Gaudry. The present cathedral has one specially -distinctive feature: the east end, instead of being apsidal, follows the -English type of a square termination. There are other churches in the -neighbourhood built on a similar plan, which suggests the possibility of -English architects having been engaged in their construction. Lâon is, -however, in one important feature, a variant from the common arrangement -in English churches of the eastern wall. It has there a great circular -window only, instead of the immense wall of glass usually adopted in -this country. The bays of the aisles are four-storied, in pairs, with -alternating piers, and of great beauty, the ribs of the vaulting -springing from clusters of light shafts. There is a large ambulatory -over the aisles, “which are built up in two stories, both of them -vaulted, and the upper vaulted aisle giving valuable abutment to the -clerestory wall.” This internal arrangement appears to have been in -favour with the architects of the early French Gothic style. - -The twenty-eight side chapels are enclosed by some very lovely screens -of a later date, which, being erected during the latter part of the -sixteenth century, and of Renaissance design, are considered by the -ultra-Gothic mind to clash with the rest of the cathedral. Nevertheless -they are very beautiful in proportion and appropriateness, reticent in -design, and admirable in execution. - -Viollet-le-Duc, in his review of the cathedral of Lâon, says that it has -a certain ring of democracy and is not of that religious aspect that -attaches to Chartres, Amiens, or Rheims. From the distance it has more -the appearance of a château than of a church: its nave is low when -compared with other Gothic naves, and its general outside appearance -shows evidence of something brutal and savage; and as far as its -colossal sculptures of animals, oxen and horses, which appear to guard -the upper parts of the towers, are concerned, they combine to give an -impression more of terror than of a religious sentiment. One does not -feel, as one regards Notre Dame de Lâon, the stamp of an advanced -civilisation, as at Paris or at Amiens. Everything is rude and rough; it -is the monument of a people enterprising and energetic and full of great -virility. They are the same men as are seen building elsewhere in the -neighbourhood--a race of giants. - -As we approach Rheims from Paris, Lâon, or Soissons, there is very -little sign of the vineyards which one associates with the champagne -country. The “vine-clad” hills lie to the south in the Epernay district. -Here to the north of the city we see only well-watered, well-timbered -country, lush meadow-lands, and even market-gardens, reminding us more -of the upper reaches of the Thames valley than of a wine-growing -country. - -Rheims chiefly recommends itself to the English mind as the place where -the kings of France were crowned. It would seem also as though the fact -of being crowned at Rheims was a patent of royalty, so to speak, to the -kings themselves, since, as Freeman remarks, their rights were never -disputed after their anointing with the _sainte ampoule_. “Every king of -the French crowned at Rheims,” he says, “has been at once a Frenchman by -birth and the undisputed heir of the founder of the dynasty. Hugh and -his son Robert, neither of them born to royalty, were crowned, the one -at Noyon, the other at Orléans. Henry the Fourth, the one king whose -right was disputed, was crowned at Chartres.” - -[Illustration: THE RAMPARTS, LÂON] - -Like Soissons, like Lâon, like Bourges even, Rheims has carried down to -modern times the remains of that prestige which must always attach to a -royal city, even though the royalty have long ago departed from it. It -moreover brings us once again to the story of Joan the Maid. It is the -scene of her mission’s fulfilment, of France’s triumph, of the beginning -of that monarchy which Louis XI. established in its complete form and -which the later Bourbons wrecked; and here, when the crown is safe on -her king’s head and Charles VII. has his own again, does Joan ask her -reward--permission to return to her flocks in the fields of Domrémy. And -but that this boon was too simple to grant, Joan’s story might have -ended with this, her greatest triumph, instead of in the market-place at -Rouen. - -After the relief of Orléans, Joan had captured Jargeau and Beaugency, -and defeated the English in a great fight at Patay, in which Talbot, the -English leader, was taken prisoner. Having cleared these last obstacles -from Charles’s path, she now set forth to tell him that all was ready -and to persuade him to make all speed to Rheims. Speed, however, was -what the Dauphin either could not or would not make; and it is always -the most unsatisfactory part of the history of Joan the Maid that when -she had pressed on, scarcely resting by night or day, to win back his -kingdom for him, Charles seemed in no hurry to enter upon his honours, -but preferred dawdling with his favourites in Touraine; and it was with -the greatest difficulty that he was persuaded to ride to Rheims with -Joan. Selfish indulgence, foolish favouritism, petty jealousies--were -such things as these to stand in the path from which the Maid had swept -all other barriers? Joan, however, was resolute. In hopes of rousing him -she withdrew her army into the country, and this retreat had the desired -effect. Charles the Laggard allowed himself to be brought into Rheims, -and on July 17 Joan, banner in hand, stood by his side in the cathedral -while the Archbishop anointed him with the holy oil and crowned him -Charles VII. of France. Here, so far as Rheims is concerned, the story -of Joan is at an end. - -Two papal councils were held at Rheims, in the days when the Gallican -Church was rising to its highest power, though it had not yet gone so -far as to resent the yoke of the Papacy. Pope Leo IX. in 1049 entered -the city in full state to consecrate for Abbot Heremas his newly-built -monastery of Saint Remi, and followed up the consecration by convoking -a vast synod composed of nearly every prelate in Europe, archbishops, -bishops, abbots, clergy, and laity from every quarter, who sat at Rheims -for six days; but their business seems to have been connected only with -the usual canonical laws. The later council, which took place in 1119 -and was presided over by Calixtus, appears to have occupied itself -chiefly with quarrels between Henry of England and Louis of France on -matters not even ecclesiastical. It further confirmed the Truce of God -which had been imposed at Caen sixty years before, and patched up a -peace between the two kings, after an interview between Henry and -Calixtus at Gisors, in which the English king took care to make his case -good before the Pope and to represent that all his incursions upon the -territory of Louis had been made solely from religious motives. - -Rheims boasts as one of its early bishops the saint Remigius, who in the -fifth century baptised Clovis here with great pomp, and who received -from heaven, as the legend has it, a flask of oil wherewith to anoint -his king before admitting him into the Church, with the stern -injunction, “Burn now that which thou hast worshipped and worship that -which thou hast burnt.” This flask was preserved as one of the Church’s -most precious relics until the general devastation at the time of the -Revolution, when it was broken to pieces by a fanatic. At the time of -the consecration of Charles X. it reappeared in a mysterious fashion, -and is now shown in the Trésor of the cathedral with various other -relics. - -It is a sad fact to record that the most beautiful cathedral façade ever -built is now almost entirely hidden by scaffolding necessary for the -restoration of the building; and, judging by the appearance of the -timbering and the paucity of workmen, it is not yesterday that the work -was commenced, nor is it by to-morrow that it will be completed. - -[Illustration: LÂON FROM THE BOULEVARDS] - -In the early part of the thirteenth century Robert de Coucy was -entrusted with the rebuilding of the cathedral after the complete -destruction of the early church by fire. He built it on a simple plan of -a vast choir, no transepts, and a rather narrow nave. “Cet édifice a -toute la force de la Cathédral de Chartres, sans en avoir la lourdeur; -il réunit enfin les veritables conditions de la beauté dans les arts, la -puissance et la grace; il est d’ailleurs construit en beaux materiaux, -savamment appareillés, et l’on retrouve dans toutes ses parties un soin -et une recherche fort rares à une epoque où l’on batissait avec une -grande rapidité et souvent avec des ressources -insuffisantes.”--Viollet-le-Duc. The beautiful portals, “deep and -cavernous,” record by their thousand sculptures, in a clear and -impressive manner, the creation of the world, the whole history of the -Old Testament, the life of our Saviour and the redemption of mankind, -and convey to all who pass by this great object-lesson of their faith. -The tympana of these porches are glazed instead of being filled in with -stone. This was done to guard against the possible breaking of the -doorway lintel, which, if large, might very well give way under the -weight of the superincumbent mass of stone. - -Mr. Bond, referring to the deeply recessed porches of the French -cathedrals--which, if we exclude the Galilees, find few analogues in the -English churches--considers them as lineal descendants of the ancient -narthex. “As a rule we did not care to develop the western doorways. The -reason may be that our churches are all comparatively low; to give west -doorways, therefore, any considerable elevation would be at the expense -of the western windows. We needed western light badly in our English -naves, especially in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and preferred -to develop the western window at the expense of the western doorway, -reaching in the end such a façade as that of St. George’s, Windsor.” - -The bays of the nave consist of large clerestory windows filled with -glorious deep blue glass, a small triforium and stilted pier arches; a -very short chancel of only two bays and chevet hardly gives room for the -priests and choristers, the sacrarium is therefore lengthened westwards -and projects into the transepts. - -To the south of the Cathedral lies the interesting Abbey Church of St. -Remi, built in the eleventh century. Many of the French cathedral towns -are fortunate in the possession of either an abbey or collegiate church, -which existed some two or three centuries before the cathedral itself -was built. At Nevers is the church of St. Etienne, at Evreux St. Taurin, -at Tours St. Martin. At Angers and other places the old Romanesque -basilicas are still to be found. Rheims has for its parent church the -basilica of St. Remi. The western towers are Romanesque, and one of them -has been left more or less unrestored; the interior has all the -impressiveness of the basilica design; the pier arcades and triforium of -the nave elevation occupy the whole space up to the springing of the -barrel vault, and pilasters are carried down to the pier capitals, where -they rest on quaint corbels of very early design. Like churches -constructed in the early days, St. Remi has double aisles on either side -of the nave; the choir is brought westwards to overlap the nave arches, -an arrangement often found in short chancelled churches; the east end is -periapsidal in plan, and the windows are filled with fine blue glass. -Ferguson does not give France the credit of having many fine Romanesque -churches sufficient to satisfy the splendid tastes of the twelfth and -thirteenth centuries, but he makes an exception in the case of St. Remi, -and declares it to be “a vast and noble basilica of the early part of -the eleventh century, presenting considerable points of similarity to -those of Burgundy.” - -Rheims has enjoyed for a long time popularity amongst travellers. As far -back as a hundred and twenty years ago a writer, describing the town and -its hotel accommodation, says: “The streets are almost all broad, strait -and well built, equal in that respect to any I have seen; and the inn, -the Hôtel de Moulinet, is so large and well served as not to check the -emotions raised by agreeable objects, by giving an impulse to contrary -vibrations in the bosom of the traveller, which at inns in France is too -often the case.... We have about half a dozen real English dishes that -exceed anything in my opinion to be met with in France; by English -dishes I mean a turbot and lobster sauce, ham and chicken, a haunch of -venison, turkey and oysters, and after these there is an end of an -English table. It is an idle prejudice to class roast beef among them, -for there is not better beef in the world than at Paris.... The French -are cleaner in their persons, and the English in their houses.” - - * * * * * - -To look at Soissons to-day, with its pleasant walks and modern houses, -few people would guess it to have played an important part in the -history of north-eastern France. Yet that pleasant, modern appearance is -itself a proof of what the town endured in earlier days. So fierce was -the struggle it had for existence, that the old Soissons has almost worn -itself out, and, seen from the outside at least, a new and prosperous -town would seem to have taken its place. It might well be called the -city of sieges, for few towns have suffered more in this respect. From -Roman days down to the Franco-Prussian war the place has seemed good and -desirable from soldiers and conquerors, and has had to pay penalty for -its splendid position on the Aisne. Both Cæsar and Napoleon recognised -its importance as a military station, though a stretch of eighteen -hundred years divided the Soissons of one general to the Soissons of the -other. Like Lâon, it was for some time a royal seat; and it was here -that Clovis the Frank defeated Syagrius, “Romanorum Rex,” in 486, and -turned a Roman into a Frankish kingdom, in which Soissons was for -some time the capital. It was in the Abbey of St. Médard, which, except -for some subterranean buildings, is now destroyed, that Louis le -Débonnair was twice imprisoned by his unnatural children; and on the -walls of one of these dungeons have been found some verses, apparently a -description of the unfortunate prisoner, but dating only from the -fifteenth century. - -[Illustration: RHEIMS] - -During the “Hundred Days” Soissons was twice taken and twice retaken in -the course of a month. Blücher laid siege to the town in 1814, and but -for a sudden surrender on the part of the governor, which gave it into -his hands for the time, it would probably have been annihilated by -Napoleon, who, as matters turned out, had not time to come up with the -Prussian Army. In 1870 another Prussian force entered the town under the -Duke of Mecklenburg, after a siege which closes the roll of Soissons’ -struggles. - -On both occasions of our visiting Soissons, we came away with the -feeling that the interior of the Cathedral of Notre Dame was even more -impressive than that of Rheims. It is, indeed, a worthy rival to its -neighbouring sister church; the beautiful proportions of the nave, the -simplicity and purity of the carved capitals, the splendid glass, render -it one of the most beautiful cathedrals of France. There is a lovely -little chapel in the salle capitulaire at the west end, approached by a -cloister, early Gothic in design, with its vaulting supported by two -graceful columns, which reminds one of some of the chapter houses of our -English cathedrals. - -In the Place du Cloitre is a doorway into the Cathedral, with a graceful -pediment enclosing a high-springing Gothic tympanum, which is glazed. -The mouldings of the arch have alternating crocketted courses, and the -capitals are carved to represent vine leaves and grapes. It is not easy -to understand why so beautiful a porch should occupy so obscure a -position, unless it were in the early days some special entrance for the -bishops or for the canons. - -On the south side there is a Transition, semicircular chapel or apse, -with a roof lower than that of the rest of the Cathedral. A low -clerestory, with three lights, and a small triforium, whose base rakes -with the main triforium of the church, form the upper members of the -elevation. Below there is a graceful three-arched ambulatory, large and -open, spreading backwards over a vaulted chapel. The main arches, simple -and delicate in design, complete the whole bay. - -[Illustration: SOISSONS] - -Soissons was laid out on a plan which recalls the plan of Noyon. Its -south transept, as at Noyon, dating from the end of the twelfth -century, is rounded and flanked by a circular chapel. Although it is -doubtful whether the Cathedral of Soissons was built in the latter part -of the twelfth century, or only commenced at that time, it is certain -that the nave and choir have the distinct appearance of -thirteenth-century design. During this period, however, a kind of -uncertainty existed in the planning of the religious edifices. These -were constructed on a vast scale, and emancipated themselves from the -restricted Romanesque design in obedience to the religious movement -which declared itself during the reigns of Louis le Jeune and Philippe -Auguste, but the _cathedral_ type had not yet been created. The -requirements of the nascent ceremonial were not yet fulfilled. - -The once magnificent and now ruined Abbey of St. Jean des Vignes is -situated on the hill facing the entrance to the town from the station. -The west end only remains, surmounted by two towers with spires. “These -are a great ornament to the town, and were spared at the entreaty of the -citizens when the ruthless democrats destroyed the rest. The towers and -the portal are probably of the thirteenth century, the spires more -modern.” They were much damaged in the Franco-Prussian war, when the -town was bombarded. - - - - -Chapter Four - -ROUEN - - -Rouen is a town with two faces, ancient and modern, and the face which -it apparently considers the most becoming is the modern one. The -ancient, historic face, which the town wore when Joan of Arc rode -through, is hidden away as though it were out of fashion, and it is to -be found, not in the broad streets, but in lanes, courts and alleys, -where the way grows narrow and the houses meet overhead. Rouen, the -_chef-lieu_ of a department and fourth on the list of French ports, -finds more important business on hand than dreaming itself back into the -past, and, sacrificing the old life to the new, or, rather, building up -a new life round the old, has made of itself a busy, thriving commercial -town on the banks of that river up which the beak-headed ships of Rolf -the Ganger sailed a thousand years ago to destroy and to conquer. But -the town’s history is only put aside, not forgotten; indeed, there is -too much of it to forget. The records of Rouen go back before the Roman -era in Gaul; the Romans found it as Ratuma or Ratumacos, and then, -Romanising the name, as they did everything else, made it into -Rotomagus. Even in these early days it was a capital city, the -headquarters of the Veliocassian tribe, though not of primary -importance. Later, by the end of the third century A. D., we find it the -chief city of the province Lugdunensis Secunda, and presently an -archiepiscopal see, with an archbishop (now of course a saint) to guide -it in matters spiritual. - -Saint Mellon and his successors made a goodly record for about five -centuries. They were a thoroughgoing race, these early bishops of Rouen, -with the zeal of the Christian Fathers fresh upon them, and their very -names have a strong, vigorous sound: Avitian, Victrix, Godard, -Prétextat, Romain, Ouen, of whom the memory yet remains to Rouen in the -names of church, street and tower. After this long line of bishops came -a bad time for Rouen. These were the days when the lands to the -south-west seemed good and pleasant to the Vikings, the fierce Northmen -who in after days were to give their names to Normandy. England had -already been over-run with them; first by Jutes and Saxons, then by the -fiercer Danes, who in their turn pushed out the Saxons. Only a few miles -south of England was another land just as fair, with a river easily -navigable even to the great Northern ships, and thriving towns, rich and -full of booty for Northern plunderers. Rouen, peaceful and prosperous, -was yet dangerously near the sea, and the year 841 saw the dreaded prow -of Oger the Dane coming slowly up the Seine, scattering to right and -left all lesser craft, while the terrible war song, which England -already knew and feared, rose and fell upon the wind. This was only the -beginning. Long fiery years followed, years of ravages, bloodshed and -burning, when human laws were in abeyance and the only rule was that of -might. Thirty-five years after Oger’s invasion came the famous Rolf the -Ganger, who laid waste the land anew, until, in 912, Charles the Simple -was forced to treat with him at Saint Clair-sur-Epte and to cede to him -the duchy of Neustria or Normandy. Rolf then embraced Christianity, and, -with the land in his possession, seemed determined to show the despised -Franks how a Northman could govern. In point of fact the dukedom, as -handed over by Charles, was practically represented by Rouen alone; that -is, Rouen apart from the Bessin and the Côtentin, and all the adjacent -lands which we now include under the name of Normandy. Further, it did -not really belong to Charles. Neustria was part of the great duchy of -Paris, and the cession of it to Rolf cut off Paris from all access to -the sea. But that Duke Robert had the sense to hold his tongue, probably -from fear of losing Paris as well, there might have been serious -results. As it was, Northern France fell into three divisions--the royal -city of Lâon, the duchy of Paris, and the settlement of Rolf at Rouen. -In these three cities centres most of the subsequent history of -Normandy. - -As for what Rolf actually did for Rouen, that remains to be seen rather -from the after state of affairs. “The founder of the Rouen colony,” -Freeman says, “is a great man who must be content to be judged in the -main by the results of his actions.” Rolf is not in the least a vague or -shadowy personality, but it is noticeable how he has grown to us out of -a great tangle of myths and very little fact. All we have to go upon is -the not very authentic Roman de Rou, a few Norse legends, and sundry -brief allusions by later French writers, who class him, together with -all the Rouennais, under the contemptuous term Pirate. It was a -well-ordered, strong, self-dependent colony that he handed down to the -long line of his successors. These carried on bravely the traditions of -their founder and brought up a hardy race of fighters, although Rouen -itself was never thoroughly Teutonic, never at least since the very -early days of Rolf’s colony. The religion, the language, and many of -the customs of the French at Lâon were grafted on to the Northmen of -Rouen by their leader, and thus the town stood as much apart from the -rest of Neustria as from the Franks themselves. After the death of Rolf -and of his successor, William Longsword, Louis from beyond Sea, of the -race of Charlemagne, ruled at Lâon, and cast envious eyes on Normandy, -even occupying Rouen for some time during the minority of Richard the -Fearless. But although Rouen was ultimately to become a town of France, -the time was not yet, and for the present her destiny was averted by an -outsider--Harold, King of Denmark, curiously surnamed Blue-tooth. He -determined to resist the encroachments of Louis, and finally made him -prisoner in the city where he had hoped to establish another capital. - -The Norman dukes only deteriorated as rulers when they joined to their -domain the crown of England, won by the hardiest and strongest of them -all. We remember the passionate, self-willed Robert, son of the -Conqueror, and John, called Lackland, that disgrace to the English -throne, the worst and likewise the last Norman duke, for the French -king, Philippe Auguste, confiscated Normandy, together with other -English possessions, and joined it to the crown of France, taking -possession of Rouen after a siege in 1204. From this point the history -of Rouen becomes the history of a French and not of a Norman town. As a -reward for its submission, Philippe Auguste presented the town with a -castle, of which one tower (the Tour Jeanne d’Arc) alone remains -standing. Two centuries later, Rouen was in danger from the English. -Henry V., during his brilliant campaign in northern France, was not -likely to leave to itself such an important place. In 1419 he set up his -cannon outside the walls, and proceeded to blockade the town, which -opened its gates to him after a six months’ siege. Here he also built a -castle, which, in the hopefulness born of youth and victory, he intended -to use as a royal residence when all France should be at rest under his -firm rule. But before the conquest was completed, before he had time to -think about any residence other than his camp, came that last fatal -sickness at Vincennes, and the castle, which seemed, like all his -victories, so sure and so lasting, has been swept off the face of the -earth. The years after Henry’s death, however, were significant ones for -Rouen, now in English hands, and in 1431 we come to the great point in -its history, the trial and burning of Joan of Arc in the market-place. - -[Illustration: ROUEN FROM THE RIVER] - -Captured near Compiègne, Joan had been sent to Rouen by the bishop of -Beauvais. This was in March. The girl was examined fifteen or sixteen -times, a wearying repetition of question and answer, often going round -and round in a circle and never advancing any further. Joan’s replies -were simple but firm. She persisted in her divine mission, and when -asked whether she was in a state of grace or of sin replied, “If I am -not in a state of grace, I hope God will make me so. How can I be in -much sin while the saints will visit me?” In May matters were delayed by -her illness, which was so serious that it seemed for a time as though -her enemies were to be defeated by death; but on her recovery learned -doctors were sent to her in prison to persuade her of her wrong attitude -of mind. Later came a warning from Cauchon, the bishop of Beauvais, to -the effect that he was about to have her brought forth and made the -object of a public sermon, after which, if she would recant, her safety -would be assured. Worn out with her trials, the poor girl declared her -submission and signed a recantation, for she saw that the end could not -but come soon. A penance of perpetual imprisonment was then imposed upon -her, and she submitted passively to the injunctions laid upon her; but -at her final abjuration she seemed to be overcome by a sudden access of -penitence towards the saints, and resumed her old attitude of -determination, declaring that all she had said in submission was said in -fear of being burned at the stake, of which she had a very natural -horror. After this her fate was sealed. Cauchon handed her over to the -secular arm, and a few hours later she was led to the stake in the old -market-place. It is needless to dwell upon this last scene, because it -is one of the stock dramatic occurrences in our history books, which -nearly always represent Joan of Arc as suffering trial, torment and -death, for the sake of her country with almost unnatural fortitude; but, -on the other hand, the more one reads about her, the more clear it -becomes that the heroism of the Maid of Orléans, though none the less -heroic, was a heroism of the simplest order, born of a pure heart, a -steady, straightforward faith in her mission, and only wavering at the -last from a very human and girlish horror of so infamous and dreadful a -death. And as for her judges, needlessly cruel though they were, yet, as -one writer points out, they were almost bound to condemn their prisoner. -To try her for sorcery and to burn her as a witch seems of course to our -modern eyes not merely horrible, but absurd. Cauchon and his followers, -however, did not live in an enlightened age; in their day the “Black -Art” was a thing to be dreaded above all others, and death seemed a -light thing in comparison with the putting down the power of the Evil -One. Others besides Joan of Arc, for generations before and generations -after, had died at the stake for reputed practice of magic; and in the -case of the Maid, “to acquit her would have been to accept her celestial -mission and place her, with some modern French historians, by the side, -nay, in the place, of the Messiah.” The trial and burning of Joan cannot -be looked upon by the light of a modern world; they are of their time, -and that time was, above all things, a superstitious one. And only after -her death did France realise what the Domrémy peasant girl had done for -her country. The French monarchy, as Louis XI. established it, is -perhaps the best monument to her memory. After, and as some say because -of, Joan’s death English prestige in Rouen began steadily to decline. -Two years afterwards, in 1433, came the death of John, Duke of Bedford, -brother of Henry V., perhaps the only man left with anything of Henry’s -strength and singleness of purpose. Rouen held out against two attempts -at recapture on the part of Charles VII., but in 1449 Somerset was -forced to capitulate to a strong expedition, and the English left the -town for ever. - -By the middle of the next century we find Rouen in the thick of -religious troubles. In 1562 it was for six months in Huguenot hands, six -months of warfare, oppression and persecution of all Romanists within -the walls, with worse to follow; for when the Royalists recaptured the -town they repaid the Huguenots in their own coin, and revenged the -Catholic massacres with a terrible revenge. After this the Army of the -League held Rouen until, in 1596, Henry IV. of France effected an -entrance into the town. - -Nowadays the first view of Rouen is a smoky, dreary little station, -surrounded by _cochers_ and porters in linen blouses; but Arthur Young, -an agriculturist of the eighteenth century, visited the old city during -his travels, before the days of the “iron way,” and he was more -fortunate in what he saw from his _diligence_: “The first view of Rouen -is sudden and striking; but the road doubling, in order to turn more -gently down the hill, presents from an elbow the finest view of a town I -have ever seen; the whole city, with all its churches and convents, and -its cathedral proudly rising in the midst, fills the vale. The river -presents one reach crossed by the bridge, and then, dividing into two -fine channels, forms a large island covered with wood; the rest of the -vale, full of verdure and cultivation, of gardens and habitations, -finish the scene, in perfect unison with the great city that forms the -capital feature.” To get this view to-day one must climb the long, dusty -hill to the convent of Bon Secours, or rather, half-way only, since the -city, river and meadows, show their beauties just as well from a lower -point, and the modern convent and church upon the hilltop are not worth -a further climb. - -From the main street of the town the Cathedral is reached by the Rue de -la Grosse Horloge, which leads underneath the archway of the belfry. The -Tour St. Romain rises at the end of the street like a tall white guide, -and here, suddenly, we find ourselves face to face with the west façade -of Notre Dame. The remark made by an American traveller, that he found -Rome very much out of repair, is appropriate to many of the French -cathedrals. Scheduled as historic monuments, they receive annually a -dole from the Government towards maintenance and restoration, but so -miserable is this contribution, and so inadequate to the possibility of -early completion of the work, that a generation may pass away before the -scaffolding is finally removed. The west portal of Rouen is half covered -by a forest of timbering. Rheims suffers even more, and the same may be -said for Notre Dame at Evreux, St. Urbain at Troyes, and many other -cathedrals. Such glimpses, however, as we get of the west front of Rouen -show us its glory. Ruskin writing of it says: “It is the most exquisite -piece of pure Flamboyant work existing. There is not one cusp, one -finial, that is useless, not a stroke of the chisel is in vain; the -grace and luxuriance of it all are visible--sensible, rather, even to -the uninquiring eye; and all its minuteness does not diminish the -majesty, while it increases the mystery of the noble and unbroken -vault.” - -Of the origin of this Flamboyant style a distinguished French writer, M. -Enlart, in a paper lately read before the Archæological Institute of -Great Britain, has asserted that it is to be found not in France, but in -England; and specialising the west front of Rouen, he further states -that, in the arrangement of its large bay enclosing the rose window and -flanked by tiers of statues, it recalls absolutely the façades, earlier -in date, of the cathedrals of Wells, Salisbury and Lichfield. - -With one or two exceptions, viz., St. Urbain at Troyes and a chapel in -Amiens Cathedral, the Flamboyant style did not appear in France until -the last quarter of the fourteenth century, and when it had once taken -root, it maintained its integrity until the Renaissance, having the same -characteristics from one end of the country to the other. It was not the -evolution of any previous French style, but it derived its origin, as -above stated, from a style which existed in England a century before. -Roughly speaking, the features which distinguish the Flamboyant are, -first, the ogee arch which is typical of the style, then special systems -of vaulting, and flowing tracery of windows, forms of arches, “anse de -panier,” &c., arch mouldings dying into piers without impost or capital, -and generally a love of vegetal and undulating decoration. This -“decorative caprice” reigned in France in the fifteenth century at a -time when the Perpendicular style became universal in England and had -completely driven out the ogee arch. - -The occupation of the greater part of France by the English in the -Hundred Years’ War would naturally result in an English influence being -noticeable in its buildings, the contact of nations producing an -exchange of art as of commerce. The Flamboyant may therefore be said to -be the by-product of the Hundred Years’ War. - -There is documentary evidence that both at Rouen and at Evreux the -foreign occupation did not interfere with the work going on at the -cathedrals; indeed, at Rouen, two canons of York were received with the -greatest courtesy by the chapter, and contributions were made by the -English towards the completion of the Cathedral. The domination of the -English was no hindrance to the progress of art in France, and as soon -as the latter had freed itself and realised its national unity, its -architects applied themselves heart and soul to the development of this -style which was “borrowed from the enemy.” - -A long list can be made of buildings where the ogee arch and other -typical features obtained in England, from the end of the thirteenth to -the latter part of the fourteenth century, during which time no -parallels existed in France. One of the most ancient examples is Queen -Eleanor’s Cross at Northampton (1291-1294), where Flamboyant features -show themselves. - -The tomb of William de la Merche at Wells (1302), Aymer de Valence at -Westminster (1323), and many other early fourteenth-century examples, -furnished by almost every cathedral, testify to the prevalence of the -passion for the ogee motive of decoration. These are given in detail by -M. Enlart as irrefragable proofs of the English origin of the Flamboyant -style. - -The interior of the Cathedral of Rouen is considered by Mr. Bond to be -curiously Romanesque in plan. Its nave bays are four-storied, an upper -and lower pier arch with small triforium and clerestory. The upper pier -arch might also be regarded as a triforium, for a passage-way runs along -the sill of the arch and is continued behind the main piers on an -elegant group of shafted corbels. These were originally intended to -support a vault of a lower aisle. The east end is more dignified and has -simpler factors, clerestory, triforium and pier arch. The glass is -magnificent, dating from the thirteenth century. - -[Illustration: RUE DE L’HORLOGE, ROUEN] - -South of the Cathedral a narrow street leads eventually to the river by -way of the _halles_, the Place Haute-Vieille-Tour and its sister of the -Basse-Vieille-Tour. The first square is a large open place, fenced round -with solid stone buildings, and having on its south side the Chapelle de -la Fierte Saint-Romain. With this monument, on which a flight of steps -leads up to a Renaissance chapel of six stages, is connected a curious -_privilège_ and legend, both of which have of course been recorded -before, but which are interesting enough to bear repetition. The charter -for this privilege was accorded to the chapter of Rouen Cathedral by -King Dagobert--he who founded the Abbey of Saint Denis. Each year, on -Ascension Day, the archbishop was empowered to release a man condemned -to death; and therefore every Ascension Day the good folk of Rouen -flocked into the streets to watch the procession of the Fierte -Saint-Romain. First came the solemn visit of the arm of the Church to -the arm of the Law, with the annual formal proclamation of the -privilege. Then every prison in the city must be searched, and every -prisoner put on oath and examined as to the cause of his imprisonment. -Finally the election of the favoured prisoner was put to the vote by -the chapter, his name sent to the Palais de Justice, and the paper duly -signed and sealed, after which the “messe du prisonnier” was celebrated -in the Salle des Pas-Perdus; and finally, the prisoner himself was -called before his lords, secular and spiritual, and formally examined; -he then confessed to the chaplain of Saint-Romain, his fetters were -removed, and he followed the archbishop to the Place Haute-Vieille-Tour, -where, in the Chapelle de la Fierte, a solemn service made him once more -a free man. A solemn and magnificent procession then bore him, crowned -with flowers, to the great thanksgiving Mass, after which he was free to -go whither he would. No less curious is the legend connected with the -ceremony. It is said that while Romain was bishop of Rouen a terrible -dragon laid waste all the land and devoured the inhabitants. - -No one dared to approach this monster, who was known as the Gargoyle, -until Saint Romain, armed only with his sanctity, set out to subdue it, -accompanied by a condemned criminal--the prototype of those who were -released on Holy Thursday--when the Gargoyle at once submitted and, with -the episcopal stole round its neck, was led by the prisoner to the -water’s edge. The sequel does not reflect much credit upon the -bishop--at least, it seems rather of the nature of meanness to conjure -the beast into good nature and then to push it, all unawares, into the -river to drown. At the head of the Portail de la Calende, the north -porch of the Cathedral, stands the figure of Saint Romain, and under his -feet, with the stole round its neck, is the Gargoyle, craning its head -round to look into the face of the bishop with the expression of a very -hideous but very faithful dog--a most disarming expression if it be -meant to represent that worn by the Gargoyle before it was sent to its -death! In memory of this occurrence, the standard of the dragon was -borne in the processions at the _privilège_--banners similar to those of -the dragons at Bayeux and Salisbury. The legend, however, appears to be -of later date than the festival, which is mentioned certainly as early -as the twelfth century, and continued to delight the Rouennais as late -as 1790. - -The Abbey Church of St. Ouen is placed at the head of the collegiate -churches of France so far as its beauty and perfection of architecture -is concerned. In its proportion of nave, transepts and choir it is -considered to outshine Cologne, its great rival and contemporary. The -vast area of clerestory and glazed triforium recalls the interior -arrangement of Amiens. The triforium passage is worked between the lower -mullions of the windows, which are duplicated; but, as is pointed out -by Mr. Bond, care was taken that the inner and the outer tracery of the -windows should be different in pattern. Freeman says: “St. Ouen goes -further to unite the two forms of excellence”--external outline and -internal height--“than any other church, French or English,” and states -that “St. Ouen is the loftiest church in the world that has a real -central tower.” - -This central lantern is, according to Ferguson, a very noble feature and -appropriate to its position; unhappily it does not enjoy the admiration -of all writers: Ruskin condemns the false buttresses of the tower, which -he describes as merely a hollow crown, and declares that it needs no -more buttressing than does a basket. - -The third church of Rouen is that of St. Maclou. Its most noticeable -feature is the west end, which terminates in a very beautiful porch of -pentagonal form, and might be taken as another example of the rich -Flamboyant ornament seen in the western façade of the Cathedral. The -church itself is a complete specimen of its period, and dates from the -latter half of the fifteenth century. - -On the north side of the church, in the Rue Martainville, is the Aître -de St. Maclou, an old parish cemetery of the fifteenth century. There is -a small quadrangle, an old disused stone well with an iron crucifix in -the centre, and round all runs a cloister with two low stories, timbered -in black and white, with the famous “Danse Macabre” carved on the lower -beams. It is now used as a school for the poor children of Rouen, and on -working days is full of life--the life of a growing generation going on -side by side with the relics of a dead and half-forgotten past, for the -quaint seriousness of an old fifteenth-century builder has traced upon -the lintel a constant reminder of death and the grave--skulls, bones, -spades, and here and there a grim skeleton Death bearing away a human -figure in his arms. Many of the most beautiful figures are headless, not -from the ravages of a symbolic Death, but from those of a very real and -equally unsparing hand--the hand of the Revolution. - -During the Franco-Prussian War Rouen had unhappily to record its own -chapter of reverses, when the French determined to dislodge Manteuffel. -Faidherbe’s army, together with the army of the Havre and General Roy’s -army of the South, had planned out an admirable scheme, which, however, -was lacking in one essential, actual execution. Manteuffel was to be -routed and driven out of Rouen. The Prussians were equally confident of -success, and it is said that Manteuffel ordered his train to take him to -Amiens to be ready next day at twelve o’clock, by which time he felt -sure that he would have disposed of the enemy. - -[Illustration: RUE ST. ROMAIN, ROUEN] - -“The battle began before daylight, the pursuit lasted until after dark -and was resumed on the following morning; but the victory was virtually -gained when the first blow was struck, or, rather, the first shot fired. -Here and there, on the road along which they were driven, or on the -wooded heights by which the road is in many places commanded, they made -a desperate resistance, but it was throughout a question, in regard to -the French, of the rate of retreat, never a question of retreat and -advance.” - - - - -Chapter Five - -EVREUX AND LISIEUX - - -We left Rouen by a “quick” train, that is, one which occupied itself in -stopping at every wayside station that caught its fancy. However, this -mattered little, as the road to Evreux runs through the most enchanting -country, and we had plenty of time to admire it. Wonderful woods stretch -over the slope of the hills and widen out into valleys scattered with -old timbered farm-houses, and here and there a château, seen amongst the -trees of its _propriété_; little poplar-shaded rivers run through the -fields, decked in holiday garlands of loosestrife and meadowsweet and -unmolested by any eager _pêcheur_, whether boy with string and bent pin, -or more “compleat angler” with rod and line. The Seine, divested of -barge and steam tug, greets one by glimpses now and then; and after -leaving the tunnel before Elbœuf, it bursts suddenly into view--a -wide sweep of river, with the busy little town by its side. Then the -valley closes in all at once, and we run under the shadow of chalk -cliffs with steep scarped faces and deep caverns, into whose blackness -we may almost peer from the carriage window. Lastly comes a run up on to -high ground again; and there below, shut in by hills, with three towers -rising from its low roofs, is Evreux. The railway takes a great curve -from one side of the town to the other before running into the station, -so that the place passes in review before one; and it is an impressive -review, seen as we first saw it, in the light of a summer sundown, a -purple haze, “mystic, wonderful,” hanging like a veil over the little -town. - -Besides the Cathedral and the bishop’s palace, Evreux possesses little -that strikes one as being either very old or very new; a cheerful, clean -mediocrity prevails all through the town, which, nevertheless, dates -back to very early times. Remains of a Roman settlement have been -discovered some little distance away, at Vieil Evreux, then known as -Mediolanum Aulercolum, and afterwards as Eburovices, whence is derived -the modern name of Evreux. A bishopric was founded at Evreux by St. -Taurin, during the great movement towards Christianity in the fourth -century; later, Clovis destroyed the Roman encampment and founded a town -of his own, which in its turn was burnt and pillaged by the Northmen in -the ninth century. After this it probably shared the bounty of its -former scourge, Duke Rolf, and became part of the Norman duchy and a -Naboth’s vineyard to Count Thibaut of Chartres, who did actually take -possession of it in 962, though Richard the Fearless must have reclaimed -the town, as he presented the “Comté d’Evreux,” which was to pass later -into the family of Montfort l’Amaury, to one of his younger sons. Henry -I. set fire to Evreux for some mysterious reason, but with the full -consent of the bishop, who must have had peculiar ideas on the subject -of his pastoral duties; and in the reign of Cœur-de-Lion John -Lackland gave it up to the French Crown, and afterwards, filled with -remorse, or more probably with alarm, at the news that his brother was -returning from Palestine and might demand what had become of Evreux, -ordered a general massacre of the French garrison quartered there and -ran away himself, leaving his wretched English subjects to bear the -brunt of the French king’s wrath when the story should come to his -knowledge. - -[Illustration: EVREUX] - -After several vicissitudes of this kind, Evreux was in 1404 finally -joined to the Crown of France, though it still seems to have been tossed -about in the most confusing way, and we hear of it as belonging now to -France, now to Navarre, then sold to the Darnley Stuarts and back again -to France; and so on until Napoleon, having divorced Josephine, -presented her out of his imperial bounty with a part of the Comté -d’Evreux as a compensation for her trials. The modern town, however, has -not at all the air of having been the plaything of kings and states. The -only noticeable traces of its ancient warfare are the machicolated walls -of the bishop’s palace, and the moat below, running between the palace -and the Boulevard Chambaudin. The moat is now filled up by a -kitchen-garden--a striking example of how peace has succeeded war in -Evreux--but it is easy to imagine how it must have looked in the old -days; the dark, still water, the steep walls rising up to their turrets, -the treacherous machicolations, apparently ornamental but in reality -only too useful, and above it all the grey towers of Notre Dame. - -The interior of the Cathedral extends in date from the Romanesque to the -Renaissance period. The nave bays offer examples of what is known as -“skeleton construction”; they consist of a Romanesque pier arch (said to -be the remaining work of Lanfranc) surmounted by a large clerestory and -small glazed triforium; the clerestory wall, as Mr. Bond points out, is -so shallow that it “ceases to exist _quâ_ wall.” It is in some way -analogous to the choir of Gloucester in its “attenuated construction.” -The lights are filled in with glass, apparently of the late fifteenth -century. As Whewell says, the transepts and part of the choir are most -remarkable and most ancient examples of the Flamboyant style. The choir, -burnt down in 1346, was restored in the second half of the fourteenth -and early fifteenth centuries; the transept was finished about 1450. The -English took possession of the town in 1418, but this did not in any way -hinder the work from being carried on. In 1422 Tchan le Boy was made -_maître de l’œuvre_, and to him is attributed the Lantern Tower, -springing from a beautiful vaulted base. The _vitrail_ of the Saintes -Maries and its mouldings, probably designed by Le Boy, follows the -English type. - -Evreux is, according to Whewell, “a mixture of Flamboyant and -Renaissance. The Flamboyant dies down gradually into Italian, especially -in the series of wooden screens to the chapels round the choir, where -every sort of mixture is noticeable.” In some of the glass and on the -outside panels of the west doors the artists have attempted to show -their knowledge of the newly-discovered science of perspective, but they -pay little regard to the vanishing point. On the north side, the windows -of the aisle, with high pediments cutting the balustrades, are very -beautiful examples of the prevailing style. The western towers “are to -be considered as Gothic conceptions expressed in classical phrases.” - -In the far west of the town, at the end of the Rue Josephine, lies -Saint Taurin, the second church of Evreux, in its quiet little square, -screened by magnificent elm-trees, a square and solid-looking building, -with a good deal of work that is very interesting and undoubtedly -ancient. Originally the church formed part of a Benedictine Abbey -founded in 1026; an ancient crypt remains, built, as purports to be the -case with so many churches, round the tomb of the patron, Saint Taurin, -who in the fourth century brought Christianity into the town, and whose -story may be read in the fifteenth-century glass of the choir. His -relics are preserved in a wonderful carved casket of the thirteenth -century, which may be seen by the curious in the church treasury. In -three bays of the south nave the vaulting ends in some curious stone -carving in the form of grotesque heads, which belong to the sixteenth -century. - -“Once a cathedral, always a cathedral” was the theory which led us to -Lisieux _en route_ for Bayeux. It seemed almost as absurd that the great -church of St. Pierre should not be counted a cathedral as that St. -Etienne and the other churches of Caen should be churches and nothing -more. In this respect, indeed, Lisieux takes precedence of Caen, for -until the days of the Empire she had a bishopstool of her own, while -Caen never actually possessed the dignity of an episcopal see. - -Lisieux is one stage further on the high road between French Normandy -and Norman Normandy, and is some way over the Norman border; at Rouen, -at Evreux even, we were in France, but here all around us, as at Bayeux, -are signs and tokens of a land more closely akin to our own, and we feel -that we have at last reached Normandy proper. Lisieux, both for its -Cathedral and for itself, is full of interest. The general impression is -that of a bright little place with a great deal of life--the life of -shop and market--to be seen on all sides, but none of the modern -commercial spirit, such as dominates a place like Rouen. There is a very -mediæval air about Lisieux, and the old houses, of which there are -plenty, are to be found not in out-of-the-way alleys, but in the chief -streets. The Grande Rue has one magnificent specimen, now a boot-maker’s -shop, opposite the Rue du Paradis; down at the bottom of the hill, in -the Rue de Caen, is a house where Charlotte Corday spent the night on -the way to Paris to fulfil her terrible mission, and the Rue aux Fèvres, -where one seems to have walked straight into the Middle Ages, contains -the “Manoir de François Ier,” a beautiful sixteenth-century house, -from whose name one would at least suppose that François once spent a -night there, whereas he probably never went near the place, and its -chief claim to the title lies in the abundance of carved salamanders -on the splendid house-front, and even these are mixed up with apes and -other grotesque creatures. - -[Illustration: THE TOWER OF EVREUX] - -The Church of St. Jacques stands almost at the top of the hill, between -the Rue St. Jacques and the Marché au Beurre, where most of the -straggling streets converge. It was built in the last years of the -fifteenth century, and is a fairly complete specimen of the French style -of that period, standing upon a long, wide flight of steps, with a -balustrade running completely round the building. The floor inside -follows the slope of the hill, and slants upwards from west to east. - -The church contains some half-effaced frescoes on the nave pillars, and -a very curious old painting on wood, representing the miraculous -translation of St. Ursin’s relics to Lisieux in 1055. This picture hangs -in a chapel in the south aisle, dedicated to St. Antony of Padua, not in -St. Ursin’s own chapel, which is on the other side of the nave. - -Lisieux looks like a town with a history, and, like most French towns, -goes back to Roman times, when it was known as Noviomagus or as Lexovii, -from the Gallic tribe which had settled there. Rolf obtained it as part -of his Norman duchy; Geoffrey Plantagenet and Stephen of Blois fought -over it and between them reduced the town to a terrible state of -famine, for which Henry II. of England tried to make amends by causing -his own marriage with Eleanor of Poitou to take place in the Cathedral. -Thomas à Becket took refuge at Lisieux on one occasion and left behind -him some vestments, which are proudly displayed in the chapel of the -_Hospice_. - -During the Hundred Years’ War and the religious quarrels two centuries -later, Lisieux shared the fate of other towns as regards sieges and -conflagrations; but after this we hear little of its history, and may -assume that it emerged from its trials much as we see it now--busy and -peaceful once more, with leisure to turn again to the old-world town -routine which makes the Lisieux of to-day. - -The interior of St. Pierre, according to Whewell, “bears a great -resemblance to Early English work, although the French square abacus is -still to be found here. The round abacus is noticeable in the arcades -under the windows of the choir, giving quite an English look to this -portion of the church.” There is at the west end a large interior porch, -which is referred to by most writers on architecture. The two towers -vary in their openings, one having lancet lights and the other small -round-headed windows. The nave is large, consisting of eight bays, and -built, it is said, about 1160. The tympana of the choir triforium arches -are filled with plate tracery, quatrefoil and cusped. The most -beautiful interior elevation, however, is that of the north wall of the -transept. Here the three large upper lights remind one of the well-known -“Five Sisters” at York. The lower double-light window is deeply -recessed, with elegant clusters of engaged shafts supporting the -graceful mouldings round the opening. The transept also possesses an -eastern aisle, which is said to be a rarity in France. - -[Illustration: ST. JACQUES LISIEUX] - -The church itself is unfortunately situated in a corner of the _Place_, -and a large building which abuts on its north-west tower detracts -considerably from its beauty and importance. The south transept door -opens into the Rue du Paradis--a name which one is glad to see preserved -in the neighbourhood of French cathedrals. It may refer to a garden or -close which has been absorbed by surrounding buildings, or to a -closed-in porch, the upper stories of which have been used either as -libraries, or as lodgings for chantry-priests. - - - - -Chapter Six - -BAYEUX - - -We read of Bayeux--before going there--as a place where many went but -few stayed, because of the towns behind and before; memories of Caen and -Lisieux, expectations of Coutances and Saint-Lô, which dimmed the modest -light of little Bayeux. It is curious, however, that this should be the -case, when we remember how important was the position it held in the -history of mediæval Normandy. It was the chief town of the country known -as the Bessin, a district lying immediately to the west of Rolf’s duchy -at Rouen, and the conquest of which was the next stage on his westward -road. One interesting point here is that the inhabitants of the Bessin, -even as far back as the later days of the Roman Empire, were not Celts -but Saxons--men of the same race as Rolf, who took possession of Bayeux -in 924, and established there a Danish settlement, which, as Freeman -says, was always a thorn in the side of the Celts, and provoked many -attacks from its Breton neighbours. Saxon and Dane made common cause -against the enemies both to the east and to the west; and thus at Bayeux -there grew up a strong Teutonic colony, without the Frankish element -which, as we have seen, worked such changes at Rouen. The old Norse -religion obtained here long after eastern Normandy had become Christian; -and the Bayeux colony bore much more affinity to the Danish settlements -in England than to that at Rouen, the nucleus of Normandy, which was -hardly Norman at all, whereas, as Freeman remarks, “the acquisition of -Bayeux gave Normandy all that created and preserved the genuine Norman -character.” For this reason William Longsword chose that his son, -Richard the Fearless, should be brought up at Bayeux rather than at -Rouen--so that, living amongst his own people, he might in time come to -be not only Duke of Normandy, but also Duke of the Normans. - -The Bessin still preserves this ancient distinction, and both country -and inhabitants bear a great resemblance to those of England. Bayeux -itself is a quiet country town, built up one low hill and down -another--a town of long streets and grey-shuttered houses, possessing -three principal interests--the Cathedral, the Seminary Chapel and the -Tapestry. It is also the birthplace of Alain Chartier, minstrel and -court-poet to Charles VII., and author of that curious document, the -“Curiale,” whose best praise lies in the fact that it was one of the -earliest books selected for publication by Caxton. It is a brilliant and -vivid picture of the court life of the time; and the story says of -Maître Alain that he intended it as an answer to a letter from his -brother Jean, enquiring whether he, too, could not find fame at court. -Certainly it looks as if the favoured brother wished to keep to himself -the good things of life, for although he paints in brilliant colours, -Alain does not spare the follies and vices of court life, and one cannot -help feeling that his object was to put the more obscure Jean “off the -scent.” - -Little is known of the circumstances either of Chartier’s birth or his -death, though of his actual life several records exist. He is known to -have been one of the most brilliant men of letters of his time, probably -rivalled only by Charles d’Orléans, and--since a court minstrel is -always a picturesque figure--he has come down to our times surrounded by -a certain halo of romance. His many writings, both in prose and verse, -are very little known to modern readers, though he had many disciples -among the men of his own time, and his “Bréviaire des Nobles” was -considered such a standard for courtly manners that it was apportioned -out, so Jean de Masles tells us, into daily passages for the youth of -the court--that court of which Chartier knew every turn, every corner, -every glittering folly and every dark intrigue--to learn by heart. A -modern statue in his native town at the end of the Rue Général de Daïs -shows him in furred cap and flowing robe, a pen in one hand, and in the -other a sheaf of papers from which he is apparently declaiming some gay -rondel or pathetic ballad. - -His house in the Rue des Bouchers is also shown, with an inscription to -the effect that he was born there with his two brothers, Jean and -Guillaume; but it has now become a very small and dingy shop, and one -goes away with a feeling that a link with the past has been broken. But -although Chartier’s house would scarcely be singled out as an ancient -landmark, one or two there are in the quiet grey line of the Bayeux -streets that seem to belong to a better time, a time when watchmen -walked the streets by night and armed men clattered down them by day: -and among these stands out the really beautiful gabled specimen at the -corner of the Rue St. Martin. Here cross-timbers, black and white, tall -gables and lattice windows call for our admiration on our road to the -Cathedral; and nearer the great church itself is the sixteenth-century -Maison du Gouverneur, and another “Maison d’Adam.” It is curious how -often street and house names in France reverted in this way to our -common origin. In countless places do we find Maisons d’Adam (Eve -sometimes has a share in the patronage of the house), with their figures -of Adam, Eve and the Serpent; sometimes, as at Rouen, a whole street -bears the name of the Père Adam. It would be interesting to know if this -is a cropping up of the Revolutionary _êgalité_--a wooden form of - - “When Adam delved and Eve span, - Who was then the gentleman?” - -If so, the idea is certainly before its time, since many of these houses -and streets were built, and presumably named, when the Revolution was as -yet in its cradle. - -The Lanterne des Morts, a quaint structure with a quaint title, raises a -perforated cone on the south-west of the Cathedral. This mediæval -lamp-post had it name from the fact that it was lighted whenever a -funeral procession passed through the town; and it must certainly have -added to the impressiveness of the scene, especially when, as was often -the case in old days, the burial took place in the dead of night, and -this red glowing beacon towered above the low roofs like a great funeral -torch as the chanting of the monks broke the stillness, and the sombre -figures with their burden moved into the church. - -Returning to the three principal attractions of Bayeux noticed above, -the Cathedral--the only church of importance--falls naturally into the -first place. Entering by one of the five beautiful gabled doorways, one -stands on a platform above the level of the nave floor. The standpoint -being thus raised, the length of the church is apparently enhanced. -There is a church in Rome and another at Modena where this _coup -d’œil_ is effected by the street level being some twenty or thirty -steps above the nave. - -The bays of the nave, especially in their lower compartments, are very -remarkable. Above the twelfth-century round-headed pier arches, and -reaching to the very small triforium balustrade, the whole wall face is -decorated with beautiful diaper carving. This surface decoration is to -be found in Westminster Abbey, but not in the same varied richness as on -the walls and spandrils at Bayeux. On one of the bays the old corbels -which carried the organ in the thirteenth century still remain. The -clerestory windows are beautiful in proportion and constructed in -double planes. The spandrils and tracery of the choir arches show -examples of early plate tracery. - -In the treasury one of the most interesting pieces of furniture is a -large _armoire_ containing church vestments, and another example of -early joinery is to be found in the fine door in the south aisle. Here -huge planks, some eighteen feet in length, are fastened together by iron -bands and hinges, without framework of any kind. The two western towers, -together with the crypt, are said to be the only parts remaining of the -old church of Odo, brother of the Conqueror. - -We made two unsuccessful attempts to obtain entrance to the Seminary -Chapel; but as it is said to be a very beautiful specimen of early -Gothic, the short description given by Whewell may perhaps act as an -incentive to other visitors, and spur them on to greater importunity -than we used. He considers it to be “the most elegant and complete -example of the Early English style. The details resemble those of the -Temple Church in London, in the shafts, capitals, vaulting, &c. The -arrangement of the east end is remarkable, uniting as it does in a -considerable degree the effect of the polygonal apse and of the east -windows, having diverging vaulting but with eastern lights.” - -[Illustration: A STREET CORNER, BAYEUX] - -At the present day it is upon the Tapestry that Bayeux bases its -chief claim to notoriety, and the first feeling is one of surprise if -not of disappointment on finding that it can hardly be reckoned as -tapestry at all. This impression, however, soon disappears when we come -to consider the interest and importance of the work, not merely as a -local but also as an historic monument. Many and fierce have been the -controversies as to its origin--all the more so from the fact that it -was not brought to light until (speaking relatively) within recent -times, so that little can be gained from history or tradition, or, -indeed, from anything beyond the internal evidence. The form of the -Tapestry is well known to all visitors of Bayeux (and without going so -far afield, a very accurate copy may be seen at the South Kensington -Museum)--a long, narrow piece of linen, embroidered in crewel work of -five different colours, setting forth the conquest of England by Duke -William. In 1724 M. Lancelot found a copy of some of the scenes among -the papers of the Intendant of Normandy, and concluding after a close -investigation that everything pointed to the work being contemporary -with the events depicted, communicated his discovery to the Académie -Française. Montfaucon carried on the investigation, and finally -discovered the original of Lancelot’s copy in a length of tapestry which -was hung round the Cathedral at Bayeux on great festivals. The early -authorities seem to have entertained no doubt of its being contemporary, -but later accounts set forth theories so widely different from one -another, and in some cases so flatly contradictory, that it is -impossible to enter into them within a very limited space. Following the -authority of Freeman, who treats the subject in a very complete manner -in his “History of the Norman Conquest” (vol. iii. Appendix, note A), we -may assume that the “Toilette du Duc Guillaume,” as it is called in an -ecclesiastical inventory at Bayeux of the fifteenth century, is -contemporary with the history of the Conqueror, but is more likely to -have been connected with Odo than with Queen Matilda. This theory is -supported by the prominence given in the various scenes to “Turold, -Vital, and Wadard, ” who are mentioned in Domesday Book as vassals of the -bishop, but are in themselves quite unimportant, which would suggest -that the original interest of the Tapestry was intended to be a purely -local one, for the Bishop of Bayeux alone. Freeman thinks it possible -that the work may have been done in England. When Napoleon became First -Consul he sent for the tapestry from Bayeux, and displayed it in the -Louvre as an incentive to Frenchmen to conquer England as Duke William -had conquered it some seven centuries before. After this it returned to -Bayeux, and was formerly shown to the curious visitor rolled on a -windlass; but later days have treated it more reverently, and it is now -preserved under glass in a condition of colour and texture which, -considering its age and its adventures, it little short of marvellous. - -Side by side with that of the Conqueror, the other memory which Bayeux -calls up is undoubtedly that of the greatest bishop the little city ever -knew, who governed it during half a century of Normandy’s most stirring -history. Odo’s life-story stands out among those of the men of his time, -indeed, much as does the life-story of his half-brother, Duke William. -In an age when bishops wielded sword as well as mace, he outstripped his -contemporaries not only in ecclesiastical power, but in the highest of -temporal ambitions. Like Wolsey, he aimed at being Pope above all his -other goals. In the meantime Odo despised no stepping-stones to power. -He became Bishop of Bayeux in 1048; fought with William at Senlac, “in -full armour by the side of his brother and sovereign, as eager and ready -as William himself to plunge in wherever in the fight danger should -press most nearly,” and in the following year, when fear of foreign -invasions called the new king back to Normandy, he was left in joint -command of England with Fitz-Osbern, and given the title of Earl of -Kent. Thus we see that Odo had two distinct provinces--a secular one in -England, a spiritual one in Normandy--and his rule seems to have -differed according to the province in which he found himself. As Earl of -Kent, the native chroniclers declare he was harsh, oppressive and -tyrannical; his followers were lawless, and were dreaded through his -territory. The chroniclers of Bayeux, however, show him up as a -munificent prelate, generous in giving, a patron of “learning and good -conversation, ” and, above all, a benefactor to his see in that he -rebuilt the church where his flock worshipped, and where the crypt and -part of the western towers still bear witness of his work. William of -Poitiers, the chronicler of all that William did, extends his panegyrics -to Odo, and declares that he was appreciated and beloved both in -Normandy and England. But this probably results, Freeman points out, -from the immense admiration of William the chronicler for William the -duke, which would probably--so partial were historians in those -days--lead him to believe that not only was the Conqueror impeccable, -but his lieutenants also. - -Caen follows as a natural corollary to Bayeux, and once one has embarked -upon a journey in the Bessin and Calvados districts, it seems almost -invidious to stay in one town without paying a visit to the others, both -being so intimately bound up with the story of the Conqueror. - -The churches of Caen have never had any pretence to episcopal dignity, -and it is curious that this city, richer in great churches than any town -in Normandy, should never have been raised to a bishopric, more -especially considering the number of cathedral towns which beside such a -city as this rank as hardly more than large villages, and yet which, -because they possess one church of importance, must take precedence of -Caen and other bishopless cities. Apart from its ecclesiastical dignity, -however, Caen should be visited because it is a town both ancient and -beautiful, and in memory of the great duke, who, English sovereign -though he was, yet seems to come before us much more vividly in Normandy -than in England. It was the Conqueror who made Caen--perhaps not as it -is to-day, but at any rate as it was in the Middle Ages. Caen, or -Cadomum as the Normans found it, was a tiny parish lying on the -outskirts of the Bessin district, burnt probably by the first Norman -invaders, and likewise included in Rolf’s conquests, but of too little -importance either to be harmed by the one or benefited by the other. -Then arose the discussion about William’s marriage with Matilda, the -dispensation granted by the Pope for their breach of canonical law and -the conditions under which William might keep his wife--that the duke -and the duchess should each build an abbey church and foundation within -the town of Caen, that of William to serve for men, that of Matilda for -women; and forthwith the little town became a centre of attraction, -alive with workmen, visited no doubt from time to time by the duke and -duchess themselves in order that they might see how the work was going -forward. The Abbaye aux Dames was the first to be consecrated. Matilda -wished to hurry on the work, probably, as one writer says, from feminine -impatience to complete her task. The church finished under her auspices, -however, was too quickly erected to be more than a fragment, “simply so -much as was necessary for the devotions of the sisterhood, ” and its real -completion belongs to a day later than the time of Matilda, though her -original plan was in all probability carried out to the end. William, -however, took his time over the building of his church, and watched it -to the finish. It was consecrated, with the exception of the two western -towers, by Lanfranc in 1077, and stands to-day, in its strength, -simplicity and majesty, a fitting and lasting memorial of the man who -ruled England and Normandy and kept them with hand of iron. - -“The church of William, vast in scale, bold and simple in its design, -disdaining ornament, but never sinking into rudeness, is indeed a church -worthy of its founder. The minster of Matilda, far richer even in its -earliest parts, smaller in size, more delicate in workmanship, has -nothing of the simplicity and grandeur and sense of proportion which -marks the work of her husband. The one is the expression in stone of the -imperial will of the conquering duke; the other breathes the true spirit -of his loving and faithful duchess.” - -The foundation of the two great abbeys soon led to a growing population -outside their walls. Houses were built around the Trinité on the hilltop -and around Saint Etienne in the plain; various trades sprang up, we may -suppose, within the town; and a castle--always a patent of nobility to -any town--was built on the hill, where William might lodge during his -visits to Caen. These visits became more and more frequent until Caen -was elevated almost to the rank of a royal residence; and even when Duke -William became King of England, he found nothing in his new kingdom so -pleasant as the little city under the hill. He built walls all round the -town; he conceded to the inhabitants commercial privileges such as were -enjoyed by Rouen and other large cities, together with the right of -holding fairs, though the fairs of Caen never attained such celebrity as -did those at Troyes; and finally, it was through the streets of Caen -that his funeral train passed, bearing the Conqueror to his long rest -in the church which he had built in the city which he had loved. - -“The death of a king in those days came near to a break-up of all civil -society. Till a new king was chosen and crowned, there was no longer a -power in the land to protect or to chastise. All bonds were loosed; all -public authority was in abeyance; each man had to look to his own as -best he might.” Thus is described the state of feudal England and feudal -Normandy after the death of the Conqueror at Rouen. A state of the -utmost confusion prevailed; and apparently quite as an afterthought, -masses were offered for the soul of him who so lately had kept all in so -strict an order. This confusion was not the outcome of any personal -disrespect to the dead king; it was simply a reaction consequent on the -removal of the one great headstone, the one great reliance of the realms -on both sides of the Channel. In the meantime the body of William was -borne to Caen to await burial. A Norman knight of the name of Herlwin -took upon himself the task of ordering funeral rites proper to the -degree of such a man, since neither kinsfolk nor servants seemed willing -to stir a finger. Once at Caen, however, the Conqueror’s faithful -followers received their dead master with all the honour and respect -which they had shown to him while living. The procession started in full -pomp towards Saint Stephen’s and was met by the Abbot Gilbert, his -clergy, and a number of laymen. The monks fell into file, the solemn -chant arose; but suddenly the orderly progress was arrested by an event -as startling as any in the lifetime of the great man they were burying. -As the crowds filled the streets, a fire broke out in one of the houses; -and as in the Middle Ages fires were easier to kindle and harder to -quench than in later days, the flames spread along from house to house, -till it seemed as though a sheet of fire were pursuing the Conqueror to -his grave. Soon only the monks remained of the great company that had -set out from the monastery, and they went on apparently as though -nothing had happened, whilst the clergy, the lay helpers and the rest of -the crowd dispersed to save their belongings from destruction, the dead -man forgotten in the very real and living present need. “$1 -$2 ” - -At Saint Stephen’s were waiting a goodly company of bishops, Lanfranc of -Canterbury, Odo of Bayeux, William’s brother; Gilbert of Evreux, the -preacher; and Gilbert of Lisieux, learned in medicine; with Geoffroy de -Montbray, bishop of Coutances; and the saintly pupil of Lanfranc, Anselm -of Bec. The scene which followed is an interesting one. The funeral mass -was sung, the body being borne along the nave and chancel up to the -altar; then Gilbert of Lisieux spoke the funeral oration, setting forth, -as was the custom, the tale of William’s battles and conquests, of his -glory in war and his firm rule in peace, of his defence of the Church -and his zeal against her enemies. “Pray, O people, that his sins may be -forgiven before God, and if he had sinned against you in anything, -forgive him that also yourselves.” At the close of the oration all heads -turned towards Ascelin, the son of Arthur, as he stood forth, and -forbade the body to be buried in land which the Conqueror had wrested -from his father. “I ... claim the land; I challenge it as mine before -all men, and in the name of God I forbid that the body of the robber be -covered with my mould, or that he be buried within the bounds of mine -inheritance.” Certainly here seemed some just impediment. An inquiry, -necessarily brief because of the time and place, was held, and Ascelin’s -witness proved true; and then and there a sum was paid down to the -claimant. Thus the great abbey which he had built was not lawfully his -own until the day of his burial. - -[Illustration: BAYEUX FROM THE MEADOWS] - -Another memory of the Conqueror in Caen remains in the Truce of God -which he imposed upon the Seigneurs of Normandy. Comparing this “Trenga -Dei” with the Crusades, Freeman says: “The call to the Crusade fell in -with every temper of the times; the proclamation of the Truce of God -fell in with only one, and that its least powerful side. Good and bad -men alike were led by widely different motives to rush to the Holy War. -The men who endeavoured to obey the Truce of God must often have found -themselves the helpless victims of those who despised it.” The Truce was -preached first in Aquitaine in 1054, and Normandy was almost the last -country to receive it. When it reached the north of France it was in a -somewhat different form to that in which it had started. The early -preachers began by denouncing all private warfare; but even in an age -quickly fired by enthusiasm for a new movement, and more especially for -a religious movement, obedience to this decree was found to be -impossible. Men had hated one another too long to leap suddenly into a -state of perpetual love; and the decree was modified, imposing -abstention from private quarrels from Wednesday evening to Monday -morning in each week. Even this seemed at first too much for the Norman -spirit--“the luxury of destruction was dear to the Norman mind”--but the -preaching of Bishops Richard and Hagano at length took effect, and at -Caen, in 1042, was convoked the famous Council which was formally to -receive the Truce, and command its observance all through the land. - -Since then more than eight centuries have gone by; and yet to-day no -place seems to breathe forth the spirit of the great duke as does Caen. -In the castle on the cliffs at Falaise he was born, at Rouen was his -seat and capital, at Bayeux his victories are preserved in a lasting -memorial; but at Caen he lived and lies buried, at Caen he built houses -and churches and city walls, and at Caen we may still think of him, not -as the usurper of Harold’s throne, not as the oppressor of Hereward the -Saxon and the stern, uncompromising lord of the English, but as the hero -of the Normans, a figure more commanding even than the pioneer Rolf, and -one whose best praise lies in those memories of “le Conquérant” that -still haunt the Normandy of to-day. - -After William’s death the history of Caen is practically the history of -every town in Northern France. He had provided it with a commerce of its -own, so that it might be strengthened from within, and he had fortified -it against assault from without; it fell into English hands, like its -neighbour cities, both under Edward III. and Henry V.; it was ravaged by -the terrible “Black Death” in the fourteenth century, and harassed by -the League wars and stirred up by the revolt of the “Nu-pieds” under -Louis XIII. - -Finally, we find the Girondist party flying from the “Convention” at -Paris and setting up an insurrection in the provinces, making Caen their -headquarters; and one more page from the awful book of the Revolution -shows us Charlotte Corday setting out from Caen, grim, ungirlish, filled -only with her dreadful purpose, down the long, white road to -Paris--which to her meant Marat. - - - - -Chapter Seven - -SAINT-LÔ AND COUTANCES - - -In very early days there was in Northern Gaul a little city on a -hill-top, with a river running below, and this city was called Briovira, -after the name of the river Vire. But in Christian times a certain -bishop of Coutances, a native of Briovira, extended his pastoral -protection to his birthplace, and called it by his own name, Laudus, or -Lô, by which it is known to this day, although the bishopstool has no -longer a place there. Saint-Lô does not strike one, either at first -sight or afterwards, as being a cathedral city. The first view, from the -railway, is a very rural one, and from an artist’s point of view the -place is more or less ideal, possessing as it does two important -qualifications of a “paintable” town--it has a river, and it stands on a -hill. Only the outskirts of Saint-Lô lie about the waterside; the real -town is higher up on the steep frowning cliff, and the Rue Torteron -straggles across the bridge and up the hill, and finally, by means of a -steep little alley, leads out into the Place Ferrier, where stands the -Cathedral. Here, too, the Saturday market is held, and then the -hill-top, usually quiet and deserted, blossoms into life, and the Rue -Torteron is all a-clatter with farmers’ carts and the scurry of -_sabots_. The western half of the market-place is known as the “Place -des Beaux-Regards,” and from it, as its name testifies, stretches a wide -view of the river, fields, and wooded hills beyond; here, also, is the -fountain, crowned by Leduc’s graceful bronze peasant-girl, with -water-vessel poised easily over her shoulder. - -Saint-Lô was a Huguenot stronghold during the wars of the League, and -the cliff-face still retains a fragment of the old defences, the Tour -Beauregard, an ivy-covered ruin clinging to the rock, which probably -served as a watch-tower in times when the meadows of the Vire were not -so peaceful as they are to-day. - -The year 1575 saw the siege which the little town counts among the great -events of its history, when Colombières, the Huguenot, held out so -bravely against the Catholic army. Colombières had marched into Saint-Lô -some months before in order to place a garrison there in case of -assault, and the townspeople welcomed him almost as a protecting angel. -In the next year the enemy’s forces marched up to the Vire under -Matignon, and demanded the surrender of the garrison. Colombières sent -back a defiant message in answer, and the enemy’s guns were soon -thundering about the rocks above the river. Saint-Lô happens to be -guarded by water on three sides--on two by tributary streams, on the -third by the Vire itself, and this western side is further strengthened -by the steep precipice, falling sheer down to what is now the Basse -Ville. Matignon determined to take a bold line and attack the Tour -Beauregard as well as the Tour de la Rose, which stood in a more -approachable part. All day the artillery played upon the cliff-face, and -all day Colombières cheered on his men to the defence, when a breach at -the Tour Beauregard had considerably detracted from their strongest -position. At last the gallant leader, springing upon the ramparts, -braved the enemy’s fire, and fell dead before their eyes rather than -suffer the indignity of surrender. When his inspiring presence was gone -from their midst the Huguenots seemed to lose heart; their defence -wavered, their fire became less fierce, and at the end the Catholics -stormed the rock and poured into the market-place. - -[Illustration: ST. LÔ] - -It is interesting to note that during the siege, as at an earlier one at -Beauvais, the women of the town signalised themselves by the good -service they rendered, though it was certainly service of a -blood-thirsty order, since it consisted in pouring down the terrible -streams of boiling pitch and lead upon the heads of the besiegers; a -mode of defence, however, very often resorted to by those who did not -use firearms. - -Traces of Huguenot days can still be seen in the west front of the -Cathedral, which has evidently been defaced by some fanatical hand. The -irregularity of its porches gives to this façade a curious one-sided -appearance, that on the north having a round arch and the central and -southern arches being pointed. The two towers are of different periods. -In the seventeenth century, when the Cathedral was rebuilt, the -perforated stone spires were added, the architect finding his -inspiration in those at Bayeux and Caen. The best view of these is from -the Ville Basse, where they come remarkably well into the picture, -standing high above the grey roofs. - -Here the Cathedral-church is, as usual, the centre of all that there is -of antiquity in the town. There is one especially beautiful timber -house, known as the Maison Dieu, some little distance from the west -front; north and south of the church are various narrow streets--the Rue -de la Porte Dollée runs over the stream of the same name, and under a -curious old gateway tower; the Rue Henri Amiard leads to the precincts -of the Cathedral, the south flank and its outward trend being well seen -from here; but there is nothing very tangible in the way of antiquity, -and one has an impression that when the bishop departed from Saint-Lô he -must have taken with him the soul of the place. - -Notre Dame de Saint-Lô has a very unusual and original plan, widening -towards the east and adding another aisle to the north and south -ambulatories. On the north side is its chief curiosity, an outdoor -pulpit, built at the end of the fifteenth century and probably used by -Huguenot preachers, to whom a sermon was a sermon, whether preached -under a vaulted roof or the open sky. What strikes one most about the -interior of the church is its want of light. The nave is absolutely -unlighted, having neither triforium nor clerestory, and the aisles have -only one tier of large windows, whose glass is old and very fine, though -in most cases pieced together; the nave piers are massive, with a -cluster of three shafts; those of the choir are quite simple, and have -one noticeable feature, the absence of capitals, the vault mouldings -dying away into the pier. - -[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL FRONT ST. LÔ] - -Like Saint-Lô, Coutances is a city built on a hill, and has therefore a -peculiar charm all its own. The steep hill rises very impressively -from the rolling country below, showing the Cathedral on the height, the -towers of St. Pierre and the grey houses and apple orchards on the lower -slope. As a town it has more to say for itself than Saint-Lô; small -though it is, in respect of the part it has played in the history of its -surroundings it can hold its own with many larger towns. Coutances on -its granite rock is the watch-tower of the flat marshy Côtentin. It -looks out to sea on the one side and over its subject towns on the -other; it has seen the sun flash on the winged helmets of the Danes, on -the spears of Englishmen of Agincourt, on the grim figures of the -Huguenot leaders in the days of the League, as each in their day marched -over the plains to Coutances for the sake of plunder, conquest and -religion. Even in Roman times it was of importance; the Gauls called it -Cosedia of the Unelli, but towards the end of the third century -Constantius Chlorus fortified the town and called it after his name, -which it bears at the present day--Constantius--Constance--Coutances. - -The son and successor of this Constantius was Constantine the Great, -from whose reign dates the spread of Christianity over Western Europe; -and the Côtentin, as an old saying goes, now found itself divided -between Saint Martin and Sainte Maria. Churches were built all over the -land; bishops--every one a saint in these early days--followed the light -of St. Augustine in England, and journeyed about the country making -conversions and working miracles. - -In the fifth century Coutances received its first great church, the -basilica of St. Eureptiolus, built, according to local tradition, upon -the foundations of a pagan temple. Later on, Norman invaders did their -best to undo the good work of the Christian bishops, and we hear that -the bishops of Coutances in particular were compelled to take refuge in -Rouen for a century and a half, until the peninsula finally passed into -the hands of William Longsword in 931, and for a time the churches had -peace. - -The barons of the Côtentin played a considerable part in the Norman -Conquest of England, being among William’s most loyal supporters. -Taillefer, the famous warrior at the battle of Senlac, the seigneurs of -Pommeraye, Blainville, Pierrepont, all kept up the honour of Coutances -in the lands across the water, as well as Bishop de Montbray, who, like -Odo of Bayeux, held the office of a bishop in his own country and of a -feudal lord in England. History has it on record that he held no less -than two hundred and eighty fiefs in the conquered country, besides the -lands which belonged to his ecclesiastical jurisdiction in the -Côtentin. After the death of the Conqueror various pretenders to the -dukedom of Normandy arose, and Coutances suffered from the local wars, -falling into the hands of Fulk of Anjou and being retaken by Henry I., -and to complete the harassed state of the Côtentin a dreadful famine -spread over the district and reduced the town to a state of the utmost -misery. In 1203 it was joined to France with the rest of Normandy; but -this practically meant an entire renunciation of its freedom. Philip -Augustus and Louis IX. confiscated its seigneurial rights and set a -French governor to rule over the country instead of the Norman lords, -though the latter king probably made up, in the eyes of the people of -Coutances, for these encroachments by paying a visit to their town, -which honour is remembered by them to-day not only as an act of royal -condescension but of saintly beneficence. - -In the wars of Edward III. and Henry V. Coutances had its share. -Standing in the western corner of Normandy, the town came at the end of -a long line of strongholds which one after the other had surrendered to -the English assault. Valognes fell, then the Ponts d’Ouve, then Carentan -and Saint-Lô. Next Edward turned off towards Caen and followed on to -Crécy; so that it seemed at first as though Coutances would escape -altogether. However, the treachery of one of the neighbouring lords was -to attempt what the enemy had left undone. In 1358 there lived in the -château of Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte a certain Geoffrey d’Harcourt, -surnamed Le Boiteux, whose nephew had been treacherously murdered at -Rouen. D’Harcourt resolved to revenge the crime upon the city of -Coutances. He got together an army with the help of the King of Navarre, -and drew up his troops outside the town, with heavy machines for -battery; and he had succeeded in forcing a breach, when the royal army, -arriving at an opportune moment, upset his schemes and sent him back to -his château of Saint-Sauveur. In the latter part of the war, however, -this good fortune left the city. After his victory at Agincourt the -English king marched westward to subdue the towns in the far corner of -Normandy, and Coutances fell into his hands in 1418, remaining under the -same rule until the Constable de Richemont drove out the English in -1449; and it is said that to all those of the inhabitants who had -remained faithful to his cause Charles VII. made reparation for all the -spoliation they had suffered at the hands of the English. This may, of -course, have emanated from that prince’s indolent good nature, which did -not object to granting a favour where it was not too much trouble; but -considering the utter laziness of Charles it seems unlikely that he -should have troubled himself to this extent in the cause of a little -city in the west, far away from Paris, when he was occupied with the new -experience of being king in fact as well as name. - -[Illustration: COUTANCES] - -The League Wars were the next to touch Coutances. -Bricqueville-Colombières, who, as we saw, was to meet a soldier’s death -upon the walls of Saint Lô some years later, took possession of the town -in the name of the Protestants in 1561, and as the standards of both -armies were followed by crowds of half-savage, ignorant peasants, -thirsty for plunder of any sort, Coutances found itself overrun as it -had been by a tribe of wild beasts. Men, women and children were -massacred without quarter, churches and houses were rifled and, worse -than all, the beautiful Cathedral of de Montbray suffered a like fate -and was despoiled of sculpture, carving, statues and sainted relics, the -bishop and clergy being struck down before they could attempt to quell -these barbarian inroads. This scene was repeated two years later, when -Colombières burnt part of the town, and again in 1566. After such -treatment, it is hardly to be wondered at that the inhabitants of -Coutances declared for the League, in spite of the fact that this -disobedience caused the temporary removal of both their civil and -seigneurial rights, the one passing to Saint-Lô and the other to -Granville. - -In the reign of Louis XIII. Richelieu imposed upon the inhabitants of -Normandy the hateful tax known as the Gabelle, and by this means stirred -up the revolt of the “Nu-pieds.” Coutances shared in several of the -subsequent disorders. One Poupinel, charged with a commission from the -Parliament of Rouen, was murdered in the streets of Avranches; and the -tax-gatherer at Coutances, fearing a like fate, armed all his followers -in the event of a possible disturbance. The worthy man’s extra -precaution, however, proved to do more harm than good; his servants in -their excess of zeal saw an enemy in every harmless farmer come to do -his marketing in the town, and a deadly weapon in every ashen stick, and -the pitch of excitement grew so high that when the bell of Saint Pierre -began to ring for a christening, they took it for the warning peal of -the tocsin, and rushed out into the streets with loud cries, brandishing -their weapons and assaulting in their excitement every innocent burgher -whom they met. - -As was but natural, this unprovoked attack roused the dormant spirit of -revolt among the people; Nicolle, the unfortunate tax-gatherer, found -out his mistake too late; the “Nu-pieds,” under their chief, Le -Sauvage, burnt down his house and murdered his brother; and for a few -days, until the popular fury had quieted down, Coutances was thrown into -a state of revolution. The terrible disturbances of the next century, -however, did not work much havoc here. Only twenty-three persons in all -were sent to the guillotine from Coutances during the Terror, and most -of these, we are told, were burghers and not aristocrats, and the -victims of private vengeance rather than of public fury. - -Coutances had a good many notable bishops. There was Eureptiolus, -mentioned above; there were Laudus, the founder of Saint-Lô; and Robert -of Lisieux, who built his church on the foundations of the old basilica; -and Geoffroy de Montbray, whose best life-work was given to finishing -what Robert had begun; Hugues de Morville, who restored the Cathedral in -the thirteenth century; and energetic, tenacious Geoffroy Herbert, who -was possessed with a perfect mania for building, in and out of -Coutances, and to whom the town owes the church of St. Pierre. - -The Cathedral at Coutances was founded by the widow of Richard the -Fearless in 1030, and completed towards the end of the century by -Geoffroy de Montbray, William the Conqueror’s fighting bishop. After -the union of Normandy to France it was rebuilt, and the work of -restoration extended into the fifteenth century. Entering by the north -porch one is struck by the beauty of the doorway, whose overhanging -mouldings and shafts are designed with great elegance and freedom. The -English type of capital, with round abacus and vigorous foliation, -reminds one of the cathedrals of Salisbury and Lincoln; and the tympanum -with its sadly-mutilated figures is carried on a corbel table of great -beauty. The interior elevation of the bays is composed of three -features--pier arches, a fine triforium with quatrefoil balustrade, and -a rather small clerestory with a passage-way crossing its base. There is -a great deal of exquisite glass in the cathedral, especially in the -transepts. In the choir the love of high clerestories, admitting as much -light as possible to the chancel, to the almost complete extinction of -the triforium, shows itself here as in many other churches already -noticed. The upper windows are in two planes, with a light shaft -supporting the interior arches. - -In the ambulatory there is what looks like a blind stone bay, corbelled -out and resting on the capitals of the columns. Probably this is a -staircase leading to the upper passages of the triforium and clerestory. -The lantern, which is octagon in plan, has three tiers of arches, the -over-hanging sides being supported by a simple pendentive with very -slight mouldings. - -[Illustration: THE SOUTH PORCH OF THE CATHEDRAL, COUTANCES] - -Beyond the Place du Parvis, where the Cathedral stands, is the Musée, -once the house of Quesnel Morinière, who at his death left to the town -both house and garden. The latter is now converted into a Jardin Public, -which every French town, however small, seems to possess; and sitting or -walking amidst its shady alleys and green lawns, with catalpas and -orange trees in full bloom overhead, one feels very kindly disposed -towards the good citizen who planted them and left this possession for -the enjoyment of his fellows. - -During our stay at Coutances one incident took place which may be -interesting as showing how mediæval customs still survive in these -little towns. In the middle of the night we were roused from sleep by -the blast of a bugle in the street below. This was presently followed by -a roll of drums and shouts of “Au feu! au feu!” The deep-toned bell of -St. Nicolas then took up the alarm and echoed out far and wide its -warning notes. In a moment the town was awake. Heads peered out at every -window, and the street was soon alive with the tread of hurrying feet; -café and cabaret furnished their contingent to the excited crowd, and -even children were brought out of their beds to gaze down the blazing -street. The gregarious and sympathetic Frenchman can never allow any -event to take place, be it funeral, festival or fire, without calling -all his friends to assist at it; and the general turn-out into the -streets reminds one of the thousands of Londoners who left their beds to -celebrate the relief of Mafeking. - - - - -Chapter Eight - -LE MANS - - -“Each land and city,” says Freeman, “has its special characteristics -which distinguish it from others. One is famous for its church and its -bishops, another for its commonwealth, another for its princes. Le Mans -has the special privilege of being alike famous for all three.” At Le -Mans, church, counts and commune have each made a separate mark upon the -roll of French history. The communal power gave the town strength within -itself; the counts of Maine, whose line dates back to the time of Hugh -Capet, made of it a mighty feudal possession; and the great church above -the Sarthe, whose traditions have been handed down even from Saint -Martin of Tours, stood apart on its hill-crest and watched over the -city. - -[Illustration: ST. PIERRE, COUTANCES] - -As was usually the case in these powerful cities the commune was the -last element to arise at Le Mans; before its appearance we find both -Church and State fully established on the hill. Julian built his church -under the rule of Trajan; Defensor, the local ruler, lived in his palace -side by side with the great missionary bishop who had converted him to -Christianity; and after him came the line of counts who seem to have -been always at war either with Normandy on the one side or with Anjou on -the other. Considering these two powerful neighbours, it is wonderful -what a prestige Maine did succeed in establishing, by the help of her -bishops, and also by the help of the strong fortress which was her -capital city. But in the reign of the prince from Liguria, Azo, to whom -Maine had descended in an indirect line, a third factor thrust itself -into the growing fabric of the city. It may have been the example of -Italian states which the coming of an Italian ruler had brought before -the Cenomannians more forcibly; it may have been the encroachments of -the Countess Gersendis, regent in the absence of her husband; but from -whatever cause, it was certain that memories of the municipal rights of -ancient Gaul were being kindled amongst the people--murmurs were heard -of a time when, under the Roman yoke, a prince did not signify a -tyrant--and presently the Cenomannian burghers took the law into their -own hands and met together to declare their freedom and--a testimony of -their strength--compelled Geoffrey of Mayenne and all the surrounding -princes to swear their civic oath. Thus was founded the earliest -_commune_ in Gaul, and when, soon afterwards, the Conqueror subdued Le -Mans and the whole state of Maine, the city still retained its newly won -privileges, William binding himself over to respect and observe the -customs pertaining to the same, the ancient “justices” of the city. A -threefold history of this kind leads one naturally to look for a -threefold interest within the town itself; yet this is lacking in the -city of to-day--its past glories lie rather in tradition and association -than in anything more tangible. The church still stands upon the hill, -but it stands alone. Almost every trace of feudal prince and ancient -commune has been swept away, and the old Le Mans has become a city of -solid white-painted buildings and clean, sunny _places_. By the -river-side and near the Cathedral a few old houses and crooked alleys -still remain, and here too may be seen fragments of the old city walls, -built by Roman forethought in the third and fourth centuries. These -ramparts have stood the town in good stead. From its position and -importance, Le Mans has always been coveted by the enemy, and since the -days of Clovis down to the war with Prussia it has known the tread of -besieging hosts at its gates. The Normans had it under the Conqueror, -and lost it under his son, Duke Robert; during the Hundred Years’ War it -was besieged five times; the Huguenots took it during the wars of the -League; after the fall of the Bourbon monarchy it was seized in -desperation by the Royalists of La Vendée, but retaken by Marceau; and -nearer our own day comes the terrible “week of battles” in January, -1871, during which the Prussians occupied Le Mans and defeated the army -of the Loire so severely as to destroy all hope of relieving Paris. - -“In the second half of the campaign, in the contest against France ... -both belligerents kept the same goal before their eyes--Paris: the one -in order to dictate peace from within the walls of the conquered -capital, the other in order to gain that victory which would give to the -war the long and eagerly-desired change of fortune.” During the winter -of 1870 the army of the Loire had set out to reach Paris from Orléans; -but a succession of defeats drove it back to the Loire, from whence it -was to retreat upon Le Mans. Pursuit did not follow at once. The -Prussian Army, under Prince Frederick Charles, waited between Orléans -and Vendôme until the New Year, when an advance was ordered, and the -three divisions of the army marched upon Le Mans by their respective -roads. Passing Vendôme, which was the scene of a sharp engagement with -the enemy, they crossed the country between the Loire and the Sarthe -with some difficulty; bad weather had made the roads almost impassable, -and the district was cut up into vineyards, farmsteads and small -valleys. “The invader rarely gets a general view of the country even -from elevated positions; he must renounce any plan of acting with large -displayed masses, especially in the case of artillery; the action of -cavalry is restricted to the roads, and the whole burden of the contest -falls exclusively on the infantry.” Fighting their way through the -scattered French forces two divisions managed to come within ten miles -of Le Mans by January 9, and on the next day the battle began. The -Prussian watchword was “Forward with all speed,” and such speed did they -make that at the end of three days they had advanced upon the French in -their strong position, keeping always to the maxim, “Stand firm in the -centre and act on the offensive at the two wings.” - -“On January 11, the French army of the West was completely defeated near -Le Mans by the German Second Army, under Prince Frederick Charles and -the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg, and Le Mans was immediately occupied.” -Such was the announcement in _The Times_ newspaper on the morning of -January 13, 1871. - -General Chanzy, who was in command of the French army of the West, -courted defeat by advancing upon Paris, and by his retreat upon Le Mans -invited the Germans to occupy it. Prince Frederick Charles, leaving -Orléans and passing Beaugency and Vendôme, arrived at the latter place -in time to see Chanzy repulsed, but not in time to cut off the French -army, which was now in full retreat towards Paris. A series of -rear-guard engagements followed as the Prussians drove the French before -them towards Le Mans. The storming of Changé was the last of the many -battles around Le Mans. It lies in a hollow with hills curving round it -on two sides, the north and west, and on these hills the French had -taken up their position. They had, apparently, no desire to advance and -clear away the Germans who were attacking them, laboriously marching -through snow and the thick woods which covered the position. The -attacking force ran from tree to tree and sought whatever shelter was -available, making frequent charges whenever an occasion offered itself. -Notwithstanding their pertinacity they failed to carry the heights, and -were for some time in danger of suffering a severe repulse, as the -reserves on whom they relied had not yet come up, but were pounding -their way along the frozen roads from La Chartre to Le Mans. The troops -bivouacked in the snow on the night of the 11th, and when the frosty -sun rose on the morning of the 12th the French outposts had been -withdrawn and retired upon Le Mans. By this time the Tenth Corps had -joined the attacking force, and after heavy fighting in the streets and -squares the town was won in the evening, and on the following day Prince -Frederick Charles established there his headquarters. - -[Illustration: LE MANS] - -General Chanzy in his defence of Le Mans accomplished all that courage -and gallantry in his dire situation could suggest; he disputed the -country inch by inch before the advancing armies of the Duke of -Mecklenburg and Von der Tann, but he was unable with his raw levies, -with recruits undrilled, unshod and unofficered, to withstand the -furious onslaught of the enemy. Such is the short tribute paid to the -French general by _The Times_ correspondent with the Prussian Army. - -The Cathedral of Saint-Julien sits astride a great rock overlooking the -Place des Jacobins--a square wide enough for once to allow of an -adequate view of the great church on its eastern side. It stands so high -that the want of a central tower is felt less than would be the case at -a lower level. The only tower of any pretensions is over the south -transept--originally the north transept possessed one also--but even -this is rather inefficient. It is advisable to enter the Cathedral by -the west door rather than by the south porch, so as to prevent the -uninteresting west wall of the nave from becoming a factor of one’s -first impression. From this point it is the choir that first arrests our -attention; we pass on through the lower, simpler nave and through the -great soaring chancel arch that to look upon makes us giddy, to the -blaze of deep-coloured glass and the magnificent _chevet_ of stilted -arches placed close together and looking from their great height much -narrower than they really are. The same idea of height and light -prevails in the transepts, for by this time the French architect had -begun to gauge the emotional effect of tremendous height, and to dare -greater things than his predecessors had ever dreamed; while the same -insatiable desire for light that we saw in the choir at Amiens has -possessed the builder of Saint Julien, and led him to make his transepts -nearly all window--especially the northern one, which has a triforium -lighted by beautiful fifteenth-century glass--and to put a double -ambulatory round the choir, both lighted by that marvellous jewelled -glass. - -The Romanesque nave was restored in the twelfth century, but this -restoration was apparently a replacement of a great deal of old work, -with only slight modifications of the original inspiration. A large -door, decorated with sculpture and bearing a strong analogy to the -Portail Royal of Chartres, was opened in the middle of the south aisle. -Further changes were made in the early part of the thirteenth century, -when the ancient apses were destroyed, and the admirable choir, as we -now see it, was built--“a masterpiece of effect”--with its encircling -chapels radiating like the petals of a flower. The vaulting approaches -in construction the “cupola inspiration”; but here, as at Angers and -Poitiers, it is an example of only the last traces which remain to us of -the domical design. - -Besides the Cathedral there are two churches worthy of note--Notre Dame -de la Coûture, in the eastern quarter of the town, amongst the shops and -markets; and Notre Dame (sometimes called St. Julien) du Pré, across the -river in the far west. The latter church, in spite of having been a good -deal restored, is extremely interesting. In the nave hangs a little -printed history, which tells us that the church was founded by the first -bishop of Le Mans, Saint Julian, sent as a missionary by Saint Peter. In -honour of his great master Julian built a basilica, which was enlarged -by Saint Innocent in the sixth century and restored about 1050. In the -fifteenth century both church and monastery suffered from fire; two -centuries later the pious Benedictines made some alterations, but -during the Revolution the church was sacked and burnt, and the crypt, -together with the tombs of Saint Julian and Saint Hadouin, entirely -destroyed. The task of restoration was left to the faithful in the -nineteenth century. In spite of the modern work, however, the church -contains a great deal that is very interesting and undoubtedly ancient. -The nave pillars especially, with their carved capitals, are worth -individual notice. In those of the north aisle, from west to east, we -find portrayed: - -No. 1. Animals caught in a thicket, turning their heads over their -shoulders to free themselves from the branches. Notice here how the -volute at the corner has suggested to the sculptor a human face. - -No. 2. Leaves and curiously twisted arabesques. - -No. 3. The same in a simpler form. - -No. 4. Volutes and grotesque heads at the angles. - -No. 5. [South aisle, east to west] gives a kind of rope-work, with -volutes and human-headed dragons. - -No. 6. Is much the same as No. 3. - -No. 7. Flat _applique_ leaves, volutes and ball-flowers; and in - -No. 8. We return to the wild animals. Both aisles are arcaded on their -outer walls; on the north we find arches ornamented with ball-flowers, -on the south an arcade of some interest, as showing the immense -variety of design in its capitals--dragons, fir-cones, arabesques, and, -strangest of all, winged lions, with a most Assyrian air. Apart from the -capitals, the architecture of the church is quite simple, and whoever -rehandled it has done so much in keeping with the old work. The windows -are round-headed: the clerestory consists of single lights, and the -triforium is a blind arcade. - -[Illustration: NÔTRE DAME DE LA COÛTURE, LE MANS] - -Notre Dame de la Coûture--the name originally referred to the _Cultura -Dei_--is an old Benedictine foundation, dating from the sixth century, -but destroyed during the Revolution; the church, however, remains, with -most of the old work intact, the two square fourteenth-century towers -rising in quaint contrast to the modern buildings around them. Between -the towers a remarkable Last Judgment confronts the visitor from the -west doorway. The central figure, Justice, weighs a sinner in the -balance, and apparently finds him wanting, if one may judge by the angle -of the scales and the expectantly gleeful attitude of a devil amongst -the “goats” on the left hand. Of the interior, the choir is the oldest -part, and here we find eleventh-century work, especially in the crypt, -which contains the tomb of the founder, Saint Bertrand, and shows the -rudely carved capitals and square-edged arches of an age before -architects had blossomed out into beauty of sculpture and design. The -same simplicity characterises the choir, which has four bays and a -_chevet_ of five-round arches, with massive piers, and the abacus square -and voluted at the angles. The vaulting of the _chevet_ is terminated by -figures of saints, which rest upon the shafts of the clerestory windows. -There is no triforium, its position being taken throughout the church by -corbel tables in the form of human and animal faces. The nave consists -of a single wide body without aisles, and set in the blank wall are -three large bays of relieving arches, their space being filled in with -curious old tapestry, in which appears a medley of Biblical subjects, -pastoral and hunting scenes, and Chinese pagodas. - -This quiet little church was in the very centre of the furious street -fighting which followed the first rush into the city of the Prussian -troops, and fulfilled its sacred mission of giving shelter to the -wounded and comfort to the dying who lay stretched in the neighbouring -streets of the town. “We entered,” says the war correspondent of _The -Times_, “the picturesque old church of Notre Dame de la Coûture, -interesting from its quaint mixed architecture, its old choir and -vaulted walls, and were told by the meek-looking priest who sadly showed -us over it, and was busy cleaning it as we entered, that no fewer than -six hundred wounded had passed the night in it.” - - - - -Chapter Nine - -ANGERS - - -If Le Mans marks the first stage from Normandy upon the southward road, -Angers may certainly be counted as another stepping-stone to the lands -of the Loire--another landmark in our own history--another city upon a -hill, and yet differing from all the hill cities before it. We are now -in what Freeman calls “before all things the land and the city of -counts,” the city which gave to history the name of Fulk the Black, -warrior and pilgrim and enemy of Odo of Chartres; of Geoffrey the -Hammer, who strove with the Conqueror at Domfront and Alençon; of René -the minstrel and of Margaret his daughter, who carried to England the -spirit of the old Angevin line, and fought with the strength of two for -the inheritance of her husband, meek, scholarly Henry of Windsor, for -whom the shield of faith had more significance than the shield of the -warrior. - -The house of Anjou cannot but have an interest to an Englishman, since -it is the parent stock of our longest dynasty. Long before it came -through Normandy into contact with England it held its own, however, in -Gaul, Roman and Frankish. The Andecavi, who settled on the Maine, were -an important tribe, and their city was of equal importance. In 464 the -Saxons wandered down from Normandy and overran Anjou, but their -occupation was merely temporary, and left no traces in city or people, -as did the Saxon colonies at Bayeux and in England; and when this one -cloud has cleared off, an open field is left for the history of the -counts. Now the Counts of Anjou may be said to stand very near the head -of the list of all the rulers in France at this early time--a long list, -which numbers many important names, Hughs and Roberts of Paris, Williams -and Richards of Normandy, Thibauts of Champagne--yet against whose feats -of arms and feats of policy the Angevins can measure theirs almost one -by one. “The restless spirit of the race showed itself sometimes for -good and sometimes for evil, but there was no Count of Anjou who could -be called a fool, a coward, or a _fainéant_.” - -The first count, Ingelgar, received his dominion from Charles the Bald, -in about 870. After him comes Fulk the Red, who enlarged his father’s -borders beyond the river; Fulk the Good, the scholar who defended his -learning with the well-known proverb, “An unlettered king is but a -crownéd ass,” a saying which spread beyond his own realm and found -favour at the court of England; and the warlike Geoffrey of the Grey -Tunic, who repelled the Breton and Aquitanian incursions and fought in -Frankish and German wars besides. Geoffrey it was who gave to the line -the famous Fulk the Black, the first count who appears to any great -extent in French history--the history, that is, of France proper, at -that time apart from the great duchies on her boundaries. His wars with -Odo filled a great part of his reign, and brought him down as far as the -Loire, where, through the alliance of a count of Périgueux, Tours became -his for a short time; also Saumur, after the victory of Pontlevois. On -two occasions he turned pilgrim; and he is also found at Rome, applying -to the Pope for consecration of his new monastery near Loches, which -Hugh of Tours, whose see Fulk had robbed, refused to consecrate unless -the stolen lands were restored. Naturally the Gallican Church resented -this destruction of their privileges; the full wrath of the episcopate -was pronounced against the recreant count, and a legend adds that in -further punishment a wind came from heaven and blew down his newly-built -church. How this uncanonical behaviour must have vexed the shades of -Fulk the pious! Fulk Nerra was followed by Geoffrey, self-christened -the Hammer. He rebelled against his father during his lifetime, but -after his death continued the war with Chartres, and actually got -possession of Tours, the one city for which every Angevin strove. Count -Thibaut was formally deprived of the city by royal command, and it was -handed over to Geoffrey, under the favour, the superstitious chroniclers -make haste to add, of Saint Martin. Notwithstanding this royal grant, -Henry, the Frank king, seems to have been perpetually at war with -Geoffrey, and even to have called in feudal service of the Norman duke -to aid him against the Angevin count. William himself was no friend to -Anjou. The mastery over Maine was a bone of contention to the two great -powers on its north and south borders; and when Geoffrey obtained the -guardianship of little Count Hugh, and came into immediate contact with -Normandy, a definite struggle arose. Geoffrey aimed at the two outposts -of William’s territory, Alençon and Domfront. Alençon, through the -treachery of its lord, surrendered to him; Domfront was also -disaffected, and for a moment it seemed as though the land of the great -Norman were to be invaded by his southern neighbour. But William was -prepared for any emergency. He marched straight to Domfront, where -Geoffrey had already stationed his troops, and laid siege to it. He -remained before the town for some time before news came of the advance -of Geoffrey himself; and when the Count at last arrived, he sent word of -his readiness to give battle. But when the morning broke upon the Norman -host, drawn up before the fortress all expectant of a battle with the -Angevins, lo! no enemy was to be seen. Geoffrey, whose surname of Hammer -by no means maligned his prudence, had thought better of the scheme in -the night, and retired with all his men. The Norman writers, of course, -set this down to cowardice. But one would like to hear the other side of -the story. “Here, and throughout the war, the lions stand in need of a -painter, or rather their painters suddenly refuse to do their duty. We -have no Angevin account of the siege of Domfront to set against our -evidently highly coloured Norman picture.” - -“The French yearning to make everything new” has done its work in -Angers, but though Fulk, Geoffrey, René, and the rest would be at a loss -to recognise their old capital in the trim modern town, enough remains -to show us what has been. No city standing as Angers does on rising -ground above a wide river, with a mass of castle bastions sloping up the -hill, could fail to have made history in its day. The modern town may be -disposed of in a few words--it is clean and full of life, and -altogether very far removed from the “black Angers” known to our -ancestors. This mediæval and grim-sounding title, reminiscent of -dungeons and tyrant princes, probably either meant that the ancient town -was closely and squalidly built, or else referred to the dark slate with -which the country abounds, and which might well have been used for -building purposes all over the town, as we still see it in some houses -by the river. - -The attractive side of Angers is that facing the water, and the river is -quite worthy of the town on its banks, though Mr. Henry James does -censure the “perversity in a town lying near a great river, and yet not -upon it.” It is true that Angers has not got as far as the Loire; but it -has what is next best, a tributary of the great river--a wide placid -flow, which makes no mean show here, spanned as it is by three fine -bridges. Looking upstream from the lowest bridge one sees the old and -the new together; the clean well-to-do water-front, pleasant boulevards, -and a bright little quay with every house the pattern of its neighbour; -and above this the black mass of the castle, whose solid hugeness makes -the crowning towers of Saint Maurice look as if they were cut out of -paper, so delicately and sharply defined are they against the sky. Down -river there is a long and sunny path, broad green meadows and a stretch -of country beyond, and little fishing boats dotted about on the water. - -But what Angers has of the best is its castle, though it be “the work of -intruding Kings,” Philip Augustus and Louis IX., and not of the Angevin -counts. It is, indeed, more massive than picturesque--“it has no beauty, -no grace, no detail, nothing that charms or detains you; it is simply -very old and very big--so big and so old that this simple impression is -enough, and it takes its place in your recollections as a perfect -specimen of a superannuated stronghold.” The huge grim bastions, girded -with iron bands as though to give added strength to their already -giant-like solidity, and the deep moat, filled in old days by the waters -of the Maine, stood there for a very real and terrible use, and even now -are a splendid example of how men in the Middle Ages defended themselves -against all comers. The very steepness and plainness of the vast walls -prevented an enemy from gaining any foothold, even supposing him to have -crossed the moat in safety. But this great house of defence now gives on -to a modern boulevard; a kitchen-garden occupies the moat, and sends the -scent of thyme and rosemary up through those loop-hole windows, whose -most peaceful prospect of old was the black, silent water below, and -whose usual occupants were armed men with cross-bows, or boiling lead, -or something equally quieting to the unwary spirit attempting to scale -those unscalable ramparts. - -In the heart of the town is a very comfortable little inn at the sign of -the “Cheval Blanc.” The house has a quiet and rather old-fashioned -atmosphere, perhaps a relic of past days, as the inn itself has stood -there since the sixteenth century, though the present building is quite -modern. Another relic--though the term hardly suits such a hale and -hearty person--is a delightful old waiter, who has been at the Cheval -Blanc for forty years, and wears on his coat with the greatest pride a -minute piece of _tricolor_--the recognition of thirty years’ service. -Close to the Cheval Blanc is the Préfecture, and this contains a hidden -treasure in the shape of an old cloister, which runs along one side of -the court. This cloister was not discovered until 1836, but the remains -themselves date from the twelfth century, and are of extraordinary -interest, not merely from their antiquity, but also from the immense -variety of subject sculpture which adorns them. There are several bays -of round-headed arches, and from their capitals and mouldings dragons -and toads, snakes and winged lions, glare and wriggle at the visitor in -a grotesque medley. In some cases Scriptural subjects are -represented--there is notably the murder of the Innocents, a -marvellously preserved and realistic fresco, reminiscent both in -treatment and colour scheme of some of the Bayeux tapestry; the killing -of Goliath by David, and the presentation of his head to Saul; and -inside a very modern council-room, a wonderful allegory representing the -defeat of Vice by Virtue. The Lamb, enhaloed, is in the centre; beneath -are two lions tearing apart a wild boar; and in the jambs are virtues, -armed with shield and sword, trampling upon demon vices--men struggling -with wild beasts--and adoring angels swinging censers. This is partly -coloured, and the sculpture is very fine, great attention being given to -detail. - -[Illustration: ANGERS] - -Freeman declares the city of Angers to be the headquarters of the -Angevin style of architecture, and quotes as a noticeable example of -that style the Cathedral of St. Maurice, which differs at least as -widely from that of the French churches as from that of Normandy. The -object of the Angevin architect was breadth, and he has sacrificed both -length and height to the attainment of his end. The view from the west -doorway of St. Maurice shows a well-known example of what is termed the -“hall plan”--a single wide nave, having choir and transepts, but without -ambulatories or aisles. That the church originally had aisles, however, -is evident from a plan of Saint Maurice given in Mr. Lethaby’s “Mediæval -Art”; they were removed, it is assumed, in order to simplify the -construction of the vault. The great relieving arches of the nave as it -now stands are divided into three bays only. “In everything,” Freeman -says, “the tendency is to have a few large members rather than many -small ones. There is a certain boldness and simplicity about this kind -of treatment; but there is also a certain bareness, and an Angevin -church looks both lower and shorter than it really is.” The vaulting of -the roof here follows the same sub-domical design as that of Notre Dame -de la Coûture at Le Mans. The stained glass is perhaps the best feature -of the church as far as actual beauty goes; some of it dates from the -twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and both in nave and choir it is very -fine, particularly in the windows of the apse and in the rose window of -the north transept. The tapestry which hangs in the nave and transepts -represents scenes from the Apocalypse, and is very fine Arras work of -the fourteenth century. - - - - -Chapter Ten - -TOURS AND BLOIS - - -So much has been said and written of the Loire country during the past -fifty years that the modern writer has very little ground left to him, -unless it be to avoid calling it the “Garden of France.” Yet -over-written as it may be, Touraine has not lost any of the charm and -romance which must always attach to a wide sunny land, watered by a -great river, and “peopled”--one might almost say--by châteaux, every one -of which has set its mark upon French history. Certainly there is -something very delightful, because so unlike anything else in France, in -the endless vista of grey-green levels--here and there a group of slim -shivering poplars or a flash of sunlight upon the wide waters of the -Loire, which winds in and out of the flats like a great lazy shining -serpent--flying sometimes into a sudden rage and flooding the land, or -subsiding sulkily amongst high banks and stretches of dry sand. - -It is these moods and tempers of the great river that prevent any -navigation upon its waters; other smaller rivers--the Seine, for -instance, and our own Thames--are alive with craft of every kind; but -here, on the great boundary stream between north and south, which seems -made for a waterway to the sea, no busy steamers ply up and down with -the tide--no barges and market boats disturb the calm of its wide -reaches. There never was, for its size, such an erratic and useless -river; yet we can afford to forgive it, for the sake of the land which -it waters and the cities on its banks. - -The impression one carries away from Tours is one of wideness, and -brightness, and sunshine--shaded by one or two ancient corners. It is -above all things a town really lived in and appreciated by its -inhabitants, many of whom are English. Tours is, or used to be, a famous -educational centre, and for the sake of education, or economy, or both, -whole families have migrated there, besides the unmistakably English -students who have been grafted on to a family to learn French. And the -river-side shows, if not a strenuously busy, at least a very sociable -side of the town life, especially in the summer evenings, when the -Tourangeaux, native and adopted, leave the white houses and busy -streets, and use their river bank for a pleasant walk. - -It is curious how in France each step towards the south seems to be a -step further in French history. First there is Normandy, the land of the -early Northern warriors, with the fierce blood untamed in their veins; -then Maine and Anjou, recalling the days of our own Plantagenet kings, -and the close connection of France with England; while Touraine brings -back to us the craft of Louis XI. and the magnificence of François -Ier. Tours itself, however, has never been content to lie fallow for -long; ever since some Roman emperor transported it from the right bank -of the Loire to the left, and made it the capital of Lugdunensis Tertia, -the town has had an important part assigned to it, and has played out -that part to the full. Though in old days Tours was only half of the -place, the _cité_, the _bourg_, built round the tomb and shrine of Saint -Martin and first called by his name, was of equal if not greater -importance, from the many pilgrimages to the resting-place of the great -saint. This is easily understood when one considers in what veneration -Saint Martin was held by the Gauls and their descendants. Saint -Gatianus, the first bishop of Tours, began the good work in the third -century, but to Martin is due the subsequent spread of Christianity, not -only in Touraine but all over France, so that he really shares with -Saint Denis the honour of patron saint. Born of pagan parents in -Pannonia, Martin became a catechumen at ten years old, and five years -later was forced, much against his will, to enter the army. After his -final conversion and baptism, however, he left it to become the eager -disciple and co-worker of Hilary, Bishop of Poitiers; and in 371 he was -consecrated Bishop of Tours. The legend of Martin’s conversion is well -known (at any rate it may be found commemorated in the painted windows -of churches all over France)--how the young soldier stationed outside -the gate of Amiens shared his cloak with a passing beggar, and how the -following night Christ appeared to him in a vision, making known to the -angels of Heaven this thing done to Himself as to one of “the least of -these.” - -[Illustration: TOUR DE L’HORLOGE, TOURS] - -After Martin’s death at Candes his relics were brought to Tours, and in -the fifth century Saint Perpetuus built a splendid basilica round the -shrine. This church became the nucleus of the _bourg_ of Martinopolis, -known to the Middle Ages as Châteauneuf. Side by side with the church a -monastery sprang up, and in the reign of Charlemagne the famous scholar -Alcuin became abbot and founded there his school of theology. Late in -the tenth century the basilica was destroyed by fire; two centuries -later saw the completion of its successor, but this again, after -suffering many evils from Huguenot and Revolutionist hands, disappeared -under the First Empire to make a passage-way for the Rue des Halles. -Two towers--the church originally had five--now look mournfully at one -another across the busy, narrow street: the Tour de l’Horloge, square -and solid, with a leaded roof capped by a small eighteenth-century dome, -and the taller Tour Charlemagne, so called for the rather insufficient -reason that Charlemagne buried his third wife, Luitgarde, beneath its -base. These are the sole relics of the ancient _culte_ of Saint Martin; -though to his memory in latter days a new basilica has reared itself on -the other side of the street. - -Until the days of the League, the kings of France always found an -attraction in the sunny Touraine meadows, and occupied themselves a good -deal with Tours itself. On the outskirts of the town is the village of -Plessis-les-Tours, where stood the famous fortress of Louis XI., who -lived, plotted and died within its walls; here also Louis XII. was -proclaimed “father of his people,” and here Henri III. and the King of -Navarre met together for a common defence against the League. To an -Englishman the name naturally associates itself with Quentin Durward, -and calls up a picture of the grim fortress so vividly described by -Walter Scott, with its triple moat and high palisades, its dark walls -and turreted gateways, defended by three hundred Scottish arches, and -the donjon tower “which rose like a black Ethiopian giant, high into -the air.” The castle of Plessis was in old days a terror to the -countryside; the surrounding forest was a perfect network of man-traps, -and the intruder, were he fortunate enough to avoid these, had no chance -of escape from the arrows of the Scottish guard in their iron “swallows’ -nests” upon the walls. Hardly less mysterious, indeed, is the central -figure within these grim surroundings--Louis himself, whose character, -with its strange mingling of guile and religious fervour, unfathomable -craft and childish superstition, baffled the men of his own day as it -has baffled posterity. He was feared by those who served him, and he was -obeyed, because a terrible alternative awaited the disobedient; but he -was neither loved nor understood. Of love, indeed, he had little need, -and it was not his pleasure that men should understand him. - -Very little, however, remains to-day of the “verger du roi Louis” to -show that it was once the home of kings. It has gone the way of most of -the “illusions ... in the good city of Tours with regard to Louis XI.,” -and only a few fragments and “inconsequent lumps” share with some modern -buildings the site of this royal prison of Plessis-les-Tours. - -[Illustration: ST. GATIEU, TOURS] - -The western façade of Tours Cathedral, with its two small towers, is a -noticeable example of the waning Gothic style. The detail is so -“charmingly executed as almost to induce the belief, in spite of the -fanciful extravagance which it displays, that the architects were -approaching to something new and beautiful when the mania for classic -detail overtook them.” Looking eastward from the west door one notices -the northerly trend of the Cathedral’s axis, commencing from the -transept arches. The choir spreads outward at its first bay, the side -walls not following the alignment of the body of the church. The glass -is both abundant and magnificent in the nave lights, and the enormous -clerestory windows display it to the greatest possible advantage. -Unfortunately, the fine rose window in the north transept is marred by -the cutting across of a vertical pillar, inserted as a support to the -crest of the arch. In both transepts the triforium arches present a -curious and novel arrangement, the reason for which is not very -apparent. The arches are in a double plane, but the openings are not -directly one behind another. - -The pier arches of the nave are plain, with simple panel-like spandrils, -the piers themselves supporting a very large clerestory and glazed -triforium. In the latter the heads of the arches are filled in with rich -Flamboyant tracery, either in imitation of the fleur-de-lys, or with -varieties of wheel tracery in double plane. The choir is much earlier -than the nave, and its bays show a beautiful proportion and harmony in -its members, the whole elevation being supported on clustered columns -with stalk capitals and square abacus. In the apse the tracery is a -slight variant from that of the choir; the arch-heads are here filled in -with trefoil instead of quatrefoil tracery. On the north side of the -Cathedral are the remains of some cloisters, joined to the main body by -two flying buttresses. - -To most travellers in France the town of Blois is associated with a -château rather than with a cathedral; it is one of a group of towns -known and visited for the historic piles which tower above their grey -roofs--Amboise and Chambord, Langeais and Chenonceaux, Chaumont and -Montrichard. We count Blois with these rather than with the towns famous -for their churches, and the bishopstool comes rather as a surprise, or -as a thing unconsidered. The Cathedral, built in the seventeenth century -and dedicated to St. Louis, occupies a magnificent position, overhanging -the grey water-front of the Loire in a fashion which seems to call for -some nobler building. However, although built according to a curiously -mixed design in bastard Gothic and Renaissance, there is a certain sense -of proportion in the interior of the church, the vaulting being -especially simple and broad in effect. The nave consists of nine bays, -with a low clerestory, terminating in stone panels, which occupy the -place usually assigned to the triforium, and are left in the rough with -a view to subsequent enrichment by sculpture. The examples of adornment -at the east end, however, make one feel that the church has been -mercifully spared any further fantasies from the chisel of the -Renaissance sculptor. - -Far better is the Church of St. Nicolas, whose twin towers stand out -dark and sharp midway between the water-front and the overhanging mass -of the Château. It belongs to the tenth and eleventh centuries, and has -not been much restored except by whitewash, which covers most of the -interior, but allows a good deal of old work to be seen, especially in -the north aisle, where, near the pulpit, we find round-headed windows -very deeply splayed. The nave has five bays, and a blind triforium, -consisting of an arcade of four small arches in each bay, the last two -eastward having only three arches set in the blind wall. These last bays -are much ruder than the others, especially on the south side. The -clerestory has twin lights, with a rose in the head of the arch, as is -seen in the Cathedral at Chartres. The transepts are good, and the -little corbel-tables running the whole way round, form a series of -those grotesque and curiously unecclesiastical faces of men and beasts -which we find so often in early church sculpture. In this particular -series a gridiron plays a prominent part, which is curious, as the -church appears to have no connection with Saint Lawrence. Behind the -choir is an old chapel dedicated to Saint Joseph, which has a Romanesque -apse; and it is noticeable that in this part of the church the roof -groining is simple--that is, without ribs. In the lantern, which is in -the form of a cupola, each pendentive is terminated by the figure of a -saint in its niche. - -[Illustration: BLOIS] - -High above Saint Nicolas a steep flight of steps leads up to the great -Château which has made history for the town below. The most striking -view is from the other side, where the magnificent “aile François -Ier” rises in imposing fashion above the high road; but the entrance -is in the Louis XII. wing to the east, and here the beautiful inner -court opens out a varied display of richness. The eastern wing itself -contains the private apartments of Louis XII. and his wife, Anne de -Bretagne--these are now converted into a local museum and picture -gallery--and the lower storey is in the form of an arcade, with -unrestored capitals of the fifteenth century. Facing this is the wing of -“ruled lines and blank spaces,” constructed by Gaston d’Orléans, -brother of Louis XIII., upon the foundations of a wing erected by his -ancestor, the poet-duke Charles, whom Henry V. took prisoner at -Agincourt, and whose son became Louis XII. The old castle of the Counts -of Blois had been sold to the Orléans family by the last of the line in -1397, and the new possessors, each in his day, occupied themselves in -restoring and embellishing it. So zealous indeed, in this respect, was -Duke Gaston, that, had not fate intervened, not only the west wing but -the entire building would have been pulled down to make way for his -plans. Happily for posterity, this devastation never took place, and the -François Ier wing, the chief treasure of the Château, is still -preserved to us much as it was at the end of the sixteenth century, at -which time Blois may be said to have reached the zenith of its fame in -the history of France. The Château was then a royal residence, and the -roll of its inhabitants forms a long list of illustrious names, foremost -among which stand those of Catherine dé Medici and Charles IX., Henri -III., and the King of Navarre, and the famous Henri de Guise, who met -his death here through the suspicion and jealousy of the king, his -cousin. In the Guise tragedy the chief interest of the Château appears -to centre. Dark hints concerning “le Balafré” are thrown out during the -progress through a succession of dim, empty rooms--council room and -bed-chamber, oratory and private closet, some flooded with sunshine, -others dark with the strange misty curtain that age will sometimes hang -across an old chamber, and through whose thin veil one seems to see the -shades of those old-time kings and queens, walking, plotting and praying -as they did when the Château was alive with the tread of men. All this -appears to lead up to the scene of the Guise murder, and as the guide -reaches the royal bed-chamber and points through a doorway here and down -a passage there, one seems to have reached the heart of the tragedy. -There, in the long council-room, the Balafré stood, warming his hands by -the fire, when the message came that the king awaited him in a cabinet -at the far end of the wing; here, in an ante-room close by, Henri III. -lifted the curtain and watched the enemy to his death; there in the -dark, narrow passage--too narrow even to allow of his drawing -sword--Guise found himself caught like a rat in a trap; here, in the -king’s own chamber, he doubled back for safety, and met his death at the -foot of the royal bed. It is all very thrilling and very real; and -little as there is to love in Henri de Guise, one cannot but pity the -man for the manner of his death; and there seems nothing but justice in -the murder of the king himself a short time afterwards. This second -tragedy took place outside the old dungeon, a gloomy round tower with -cross-barred windows and a heavy iron door, behind which the Cardinal de -Guise, brother of the Balafré, suffered imprisonment at the hands of his -jealous cousin. In the centre of the dungeon floor is a trap door, -which, considering the general atmosphere of the place, one naturally -associates with an oubliette, but which more probably represented the -head of a well, run up through the building in order that the -inhabitants of the castle should not suffer from want of water in siege -time. - -It is curious to note that the historical description to which the -visitor listens to-day as he follows his guide through those empty -chambers at Blois is almost exactly the same as that given a hundred and -twenty years ago. Arthur Young, travelling in France in 1787, paid a -visit to Blois, and gives the following account of the Château and its -history: “We viewed the castle for the historical monument it affords -that has rendered it so famous. They show the room where the council -assembled, and the chimney in it before which the Duke of Guise was -standing when the king’s page came to demand his presence in the royal -closet; the door he was entering when stabbed; the tapestry he was in -the act of turning aside; the tower where his brother the cardinal -suffered, with a hole in the floor into the dungeon of Louis XI., of -which the guide tells many horrible stories, in the same tone, from -having told them so often, in which the fellow in Westminster Abbey -gives his monotonous history of the tombs.” - - - - -Chapter Eleven - -CHARTRES - - -“Chartres,” says Mr. Henry James, “gives us an impression of extreme -antiquity, but it is an antiquity that has gone down in the world.” It -may be this very decadence that has kept Chartres within itself and -prevented it from growing out into a large pretentious city. Many other -places which rival it in age and association have either swept away all -traces of their antiquity, or else preserved it in dignified contrast to -the modern mushroom town. Chartres has done neither. It is scarcely more -at the present day than a quaint country town with a very old-fashioned -air, a place of steep, twisting streets and quiet little market-squares, -the cathedral rising like a giant from the very midst of the houses. -Round the town runs a boulevard, known as the Tour-de-Ville, and -interesting for the fact that it follows the line of the mediæval -defences--ramparts that kept many enemies at bay when Chartres was a -power in the kingdom of France. Here and there parts of these defences -are still standing, and one fragment in particular forms the foundations -of an old convent. Another remnant of the old fighting days is the Porte -Guillaume, one of the city gates, built when the march of the English -forced every French town to keep itself under bolt and bar. Two round -towers, embattled and machicolated, flank a low archway, and to complete -the mediæval effect, the ancient fosse still remains before the gate, -not grass-grown or choked with rubbish, but filled with a clear stream, -just as it might have been in old days. - -[Illustration: CHARTRES FROM THE NORTH] - -Autricum of the Carnutes held an important position in Gaul, ranking -very near the great capital of the Senones. In pre-Christian times it -was a famous Druidic centre; but with the advance of Christianity, -Savinian and Potentian, the patron saints of Sens, extended their -mission to Chartres, converted the inhabitants, and built their first -church, according to tradition, upon a Druid grotto. Later on, the town -passed into the possession of a line of counts, who were a very powerful -factor in mediæval France. The first Theobald or Thibaut is said to have -purchased his domain from the sea-king Hasting, who had penetrated -beyond the coast and colonised the lands around the river Eure. His son -and successor, Thibaut le Tricheur, lived in a state of constant war -with Normandy, and seems to have been regarded as a kind of evil -influence by the old Norman chroniclers, whose hero in Thibaut’s day was -naturally their own Richard the Fearless. Another of the line was the -famous Odo, whose ambition went beyond his own states of Chartres and -Blois, and aimed at kingship in Burgundy and even in Italy. Through the -greater part of his reign he carried on also the struggle with Normandy -which had raged so fiercely in Thibaut’s time, besides the standing war -with the Angevin line, represented by Fulk the Black. It was, as Freeman -says, the fact of this common enemy in the house of Chartres which first -brought Anjou and Normandy into direct contact and perhaps laid the -foundations of Anjou’s subsequent connection with England. Chartres, -like Nevers, was made a duchy under François Ier; later it passed -into the Orléans family, whose nominal appanage it has remained ever -since, the eldest son bearing to this day the title of “Duc de -Chartres.” It is also interesting to notice that Henri de Navarre broke -the long succession of coronations at Rheims by being crowned King of -France in Chartres Cathedral, three years after the town had opened its -gates to his army in 1591. Some three hundred years later another enemy -appeared outside the walls, and once again Chartres found itself in the -hands of a foreign power. Mr. Cecil Headlam, in his very interesting -“Story of Chartres,” gives a description of the Prussian occupation, -part of which may be quoted here as showing the foresight of the Mayor, -who in this terrible time, when the whole French nation seemed utterly -demoralised, thought rather of the safeguard of the city and its one -great monument, than of the doubtful and dearly-won glory of a -protracted defence. - -“It was on Friday, September 30, 1870, that the Prussian soldiers -appeared for the first time near Chartres. Three weeks later Châteaudun -fell, after a desperate and heroic defence, for which that picturesque -and ancient town paid the dear price of failure. Two days later the -enemy marched in force upon Chartres. The _tirailleurs_ and _mobiles_ -and troops of the National Guard, who endeavoured to defend the town, -after vain marching and counter-marching, with the same generous ardour -and utter ineffectiveness as had distinguished the movements of the -other armies before the disasters of Wissembourg, Wörth and Sedan, -returned exhausted. Without firing a shot they had been rendered -incapable of fighting. Fighting in any case would have been useless. It -was wisely decided to capitulate, and on the 21st the Mayor and Prefect -of the Department drove out to Morancez to save the city and Cathedral, -by surrendering them to General von Wittich, from the inevitable -destruction of which Châteaudun had given them a terrible example. What -they saw on their way of the French defence and the Prussian advance -convinced civilians and military men alike that it was impossible to -hope to defend Chartres.” - -At the head of the Rue St. Jean, where it leads into the Place du -Châtelet, one obtains the first and best view of the two beautiful -spires at the west end of the Cathedral. The southern tower, dating back -to the twelfth century and conceived in a style which harmonises with -the broad and massive design of the whole building, is an example of -what was contemplated as a finish to the other towers of the Cathedral. -The northern tower, built in 1507 by Jean le Texier, well deserves its -reputation as the most beautiful Gothic spire ever designed. “The one, -fashioned by the Byzantine chisel, sprang into complete being in the -heroic ages of faith in the days of war ... the other rose, after a long -peace, under the hands of the still Christian architects of the -Renaissance, when all dangers and difficulties had been surmounted.” - -On contemplating the plan on which Chartres Cathedral was built one is -struck with the enormous space which has been allotted to the choir. -Here the new religious cult finds its earliest expression, greater -provisions are made for its ceremonials, larger spaces are given both in -choir and transepts for its gorgeous ritual than we find in Paris, -Soissons or Lâon. Bishops, priests, deacons, choristers and serving-men -needed a wider platform for the ministration of the sacred rites of the -Church, and especially to this end was the Cathedral planned out. It is -said that its construction was carried out with incredible rapidity in -the desire to meet the pressing requirements of the people, who demanded -that the Cathedral should be not only the house of prayer for the bishop -and his canons, but essentially the mother church of the humblest of her -worshippers. - -The prevalence of a style, more or less uniform, with its main -attributes harmonious and congruous, is the resultant of these forces -working together. The completion of the Cathedral was carried out about -1240, and in 1250 were added the two porches at the entrance to the -transepts. The sacristy was built in the thirteenth century, and a -century later the little chapel of Saint Piat was attached to the -eastern apse. The shortness of the nave is attributed to the desire to -utilise the foundations of the old crypt for the choir and not to extend -the building farther westward than the two existing towers. Between -these two points, the walls of the crypt and the western towers, the -nave had to be constructed and without any possibility of further -extension. - -[Illustration: CHARTRES] - -No less than nine spires were originally designed and their towers -actually commenced. What a magnificent effect would have been produced -had they been completed! Standing on the high ground of the city, -Chartres with its clustering pinnacles would have been one of the -wonders of Christendom. The magnificent glass of the thirteenth century -is so deep in tone that upon entering the building one is conscious of a -darkness that can almost be felt, so much at variance with the effect of -the interior of most large French Cathedrals. - -The two porches placed outside the transept doors are the subject of a -panegyric from the pen of Viollet-le-Duc. He considers them as the most -beautiful and harmonious additions ever made to an existing building, -and their architects proved themselves to be artists of the very first -rank. No more beautiful specimen of a portal of the thirteenth century -can elsewhere be found to exist; glorious and rejoicing in colour and in -gold, and of surpassing sculpture and full of impressive and solemn -statuary. - -[Illustration: RUE DE LA PORTE GUILLAUME, CHARTRES] - -Near Chartres there are two small towns which might well be taken in a -day’s excursion; both are connected with Chartres historically and both -have a certain interest of their own certainly not devoid of attraction -to one in search of antiquities. One is Châteaudun, whose fall during -the war of 1870 was, as has been quoted above, the signal for the -surrender of Chartres; the other is Vendôme, the township of the ancient -feudal county. From Chartres it is Châteaudun that lies first in our -road. It is a straight, neat little town--most of the streets cut one -another at right angles--and the smoke of the Franco-Prussian war still -seems to hover about the place; one of its chief memories, indeed, is -the great fight in October, 1870, when a bare thousand _franc-tireurs_ -of the national guard kept the town for half a day against a Prussian -army of ten times their strength, and the quiet market-square--now -called the Place du 18 Octobre--was transformed into a battle-field. All -the heroism that the day called forth, however, could not save the town -from being sacked and burnt--the last of a long series of -conflagrations, lasting from the sixth to the nineteenth century, that -has won for the little town its cheerful, hopeful motto: “Extincta -revivisco.” Certainly Châteaudun has risen from the flames with a fresh -lease of its quiet life, but it has been completely modernised, and -except for a few narrow alleys sloping down towards the river, which -would seem to have escaped the general devastation, there is little that -does not belong to to-day. This is, however, making an exception of the -Château overlooking the Loire; a great exception, since at present all -that there is to see in Châteaudun consists in this square pile on the -brow of the hill; the rest, whatever it may once have been, is only a -memory; and even the Château itself hardly seems a part of the town, -since it is not until we have left the little white-painted streets -behind that we realise its existence, and then it comes as a gigantic -surprise; a huge, square, turreted mass, on its platform of rock, -looking away over the rolling meadow lands, untroubled through all the -years of siege and conflagration. Thibaut le Tricheur, Count of -Champagne, built it in the tenth century; it was rebuilt in the twelfth -century, and again by its seigneur, the famous “Bastard of Orléans,” one -of the most devoted followers of Joan the Maid. Finally, under Louis -XII., François d’Orléans-Longueville applied himself to fresh -renovations, and built the splendid façade overhanging the Loire. - -Considering that the Duc de Vendôme has always been a title of some -importance in France since the early part of the sixteenth century, and -the Comtes de Vendôme a power in the feudal world before that, one -might feel rather surprised not to find the town itself presenting a -more imposing aspect. Vendôme is a picturesque place, but it is more of -a long straggling village than anything else, and it is only the ivied -ruins on the cliff that take one back--with a stretch of imagination, it -must be confessed--to the days of feudalism. Vendôme was originally, it -is thought, a Gallic township under the name of Vindocinum; it was then -fortified by the Romans, evangelised by Saint Bienheuré, and finally -became the seat of a feudal count about the end of the tenth century. In -1030 was founded the abbey of La Trinité, whose church is one of the -first “monuments” of Vendôme. It dates from the thirteenth and fifteenth -centuries; the beautiful Transition façade is well worth notice, and so -is the belfry tower, separated from the church and tapering up to a tall -stone spire. Inside the church there are some fine choir stalls of the -fifteenth century, of which the carving of the _miséricordes_ is very -interesting in its variety and quaintness of design. - -The Loire at Vendôme divides into several small streams, and in walking -through the town one appears continually to be crossing a succession of -bridges and coming upon fresh pictures of clear green water fringed by -low-roofed houses and dark _lavoirs_ with their curtains of snowy linen. -Outside the town the river winds smoothly away past the cool quiet of -the public gardens, to join its tributaries and cut its silver channels -through the distant water-meadows. - -“The route lay along the plateau until the heights were reached which -enclose the valley of the Loir; the road winds down to the river beside -hanging woods, red with autumn leaves not yet fallen, and crowned with a -ridge of firs. A corner is turned and Vendôme comes in sight, lying -beneath the shelter of the old ruined castle on the hill. As the -horsemen enter the town the people all come to the doors of their houses -and gaze with every sign of interested curiosity. There is an anxious -expression in their faces. They do not welcome, though they obey their -visitors with alacrity. They bring forth bread and meat and wine, and -lay the tables for breakfast, but good cheer they have none to -give.”--_The Times_: “Prussian Occupation of Vendôme.” - - - - -Chapter Twelve - -ORLÉANS, BOURGES, AND NEVERS - - -“The thought that the name of the city itself is most likely to call up -is that of the Maid who, born far away from Orléans, has taken its name -as a kind of surname.... We have got into a way of thinking ... as if -Orléans had its chief being as the city of the Maid.” Orléans certainly -does share with Rouen the chief honours of association with Joan of Arc, -the “Victrix Anglorum,” as she is described on a memorial tablet in the -Cathedral, and the town is equally full of monuments to her memory, -though the memory in this case is that of a great triumph, whereas at -Rouen it marks the last stage, captivity and death. - -Orléans was the key of central and southern France, and if the English -once got possession of it they would certain overrun all the land south -of the Loire; hence its importance to France as a stronghold. Joan set -out from Blois late in April, 1429, in charge of a convoy of provisions -for the beleaguered city, and arrived opposite the town, on the left -bank of the Loire. - -From November to the end of April the English had lain before the town, -and, although the inhabitants were not actually starving, provisions -were very scanty, and the bringing in of fresh supplies was practically -an impossibility, since the usual means of approach, the bridge across -the Loire, was blocked by the enemy, who occupied the outstanding -fortress of Les Augustins at the bridge, and on the right bank. On the -Orléans bank the English had built several strong _bastilles_, guarding -the city and effectually preventing any communication by means of the -western highways. The weak spot was on the east side, where the -besiegers had one stronghold only, the fortress of Saint Loup; and from -this point Dunois, the general-in-chief, and La Hire, the leader of -Joan’s army, intended to effect an entrance; but the Maid herself, with -that love of directness which characterises her whole career, desired to -attack the English, not at their strongest, but at their weakest point. -Both wind and stream were against their ferrying over to Saint Loup; and -in the end Joan’s simple tenacity and childish belief in the counsel of -her “voices” carried the day. The army was sent back to Blois, there to -cross to the right bank and attack Orléans from the west, and meanwhile -she herself, the wind having turned, crossed in a boat by night and -entered the town with La Hire and Dunois. She was hailed by the people -of Orléans as an angel of deliverance, and lodged in the house of the -treasurer Boucher, near the Porte Regnart at the north-west angle of the -city walls; and from this vantage point Joan watched the enemy’s -movements, appearing from time to time upon the ramparts and bidding -defiance to the English, who, as was perhaps natural, retorted by -showering insults upon her. On May 4 she rode out in full state to meet -her army which had arrived from Blois. Three days later the great fight -began. All this time the English troops had scarcely moved a finger to -hinder the French operations, but when the enemy crossed the river by a -bridge of boats and made a feint of attacking the fortress on the left -bank, retreating apparently in confusion, the English sallied forth -after them, thus provoking a real attack upon the bridge fort. During -the fray the girl-leader was wounded; never for a moment did she give -in, but stood in the fosse grasping the white banner--sword she would -not wield--and cheering on her companions; with the result that by -nightfall the position was gained, the English were driven out, and Joan -returned in triumph into Orléans by the bridge. The greater part of -her victory was now accomplished. On the following day the French forces -marched outside the walls of the town to meet the English line; but -Talbot and his men had not reckoned with what they, in the superstition -of their time, believed to be “a force not of this world,” and the -morning light shone upon their helmets and spears in full retreat -towards the north. France was saved, and a clear field was left for -Charles the Dauphin--the gates of his kingdom were flung open wide, that -he might enter in and possess it. - -[Illustration: ORLÉANS] - -But the greatness of Orléans belongs to an earlier day, before Joan -heard the voices in the Domrémy meadows, probably before Domrémy ever -existed. It was Attila the Hun who indirectly brought the town up the -ladder of fame. Aurelianum in the fifth century was a desirable -stronghold, and as such, Attila spied it afar from his Asiatic plains, -and set out to conquer, and, as one authority has it, to “vainly -besiege” it, though Freeman inclines to the opinion that “the business -of West Goth and Roman was, in the end, not to keep them (the Huns) out, -but to drive them out.” However that may be, Attila was eventually -forced to give up his project, and Aurelianum emerged from the struggle -glorious and triumphant, to become the seat and stronghold of kings, -and, until its union with Paris in 613, the capital of a separate -kingdom. Since then it has been the scene of siege, martyrdom and -persecution, down to the days of the Franco-Prussian war, when it -finished an eventful history by a Prussian occupation in October, 1870, -a sequel to the battles of Patay and Bonbay. - -Orléans is beautifully placed on a hillside overlooking the Loire. With -this physical advantage, and its long list of historical associations, -one cannot help feeling that it might have done better for itself, and -have become more than just a quiet, unobtrusive and rather dull city, -with all its monuments easily attainable. The Cathedral is an example of -the last lingering phase of Gothic architecture, and was rebuilt, so we -are told--after its destruction by the Huguenots--during the interval -between 1600 and 1829. The building as a mass has great merit, for the -architects have made an effort to clothe it with dignity, and one feels -that the church itself is conceived in a spirit to make it, certainly at -a distance, not unworthy of the stronghold of Clovis and his successors. - -[Illustration: THE HOUSE OF JACQUES CŒUR, BOURGES] - -The train which we took from Orléans to Bourges was slow enough to -enable us to look out, almost as easily as from a _voiture_, at the -richly wooded country. Here and there a small pyramidal church tower -peeps out from the trees, but, as a rule, there is little sign of -life in this pleasant country, and even the fields and the gorse-covered -commons are bare of sheep and cattle. This _train-d’omnibus_, in -discharge of its functions as a mail train, distributed letter-bags at -every station. Here were waiting young girls acting as postmistresses, -many of whom had come from a considerable distance, having ridden on -bicycles, bare-headed, in the scorching sun, along dusty roads, to -deliver up their heavy loads and to enjoy a chat with the travelling -postman, who was evidently welcomed by them as bringing all the latest -bits of gossip along the line. - -About a mile away there is a very beautiful view of the town, and the -general effect is a grey one. Roofs and houses--the latter perhaps -originally built of yellow-white stone--have all weathered to a -beautiful grey, and there is an air of mediævalism about the place. -Bourges, indeed, like many other towns in France, goes back to early -days for its greatness, and belongs far more to the past than to the -present. The fifteenth century saw it at the height of its fame as a -king’s residence; Charles VII., perhaps finding the more northerly towns -too hot for him during the English occupation, took up his abode there -and became for the time being “King of Bourges”; and Louis XI. founded a -university in the town. - -Here was born the famous Bourdaloue, and Boucher, the painter of -Versailles before “le Déluge,” Boucher who was - - “a Grasshopper, and painted-- - Rose-water Raphael--_en couleur de rose_, - The crowned Caprice, whose sceptre, nowise sainted, - Swayed the light realms of ballets and bon-mots; - Ruled the dim boudoir’s _demi-jour_, or drove - Pink-ribboned flocks through some pink-flowered grove,” - -and who now, his Grasshopper days ended, lies buried beside his mother -in the Church of Saint Bonnet. - -[Illustration: BOURGES] - -Perhaps the principal interest of old Bourges centres in the name of -Jacques Cœur, the merchant prince, “a Vanderbilt or a Rothschild of -the fifteenth century,” who in his days of prosperity built a great -house on the hill-side where his native town stands. Cœur, we are -told, founded the trade between France and the Levant; later he became -Master of the Mint in Paris, and one of the Royal Commissioners to the -Languedoc Parliament. He was three times sent on an embassy to foreign -powers, notably to Pope Nicholas V. Charles VII., weak, unstable, and -always in need of money, relied on him absolutely, but with the usual -characteristics of a weak master, was one of the first to desert and -despoil him of his wealth when occasion offered. The beginning of the -end came through a disgraceful and apparently quite unfounded accusation -against Cœur at the time of the death of the famous Agnes Sorel, whom -he was accused of poisoning. Jacques was too prosperous not to have -enemies, and these were, as usual, prompt to use every opportunity -against him. The first steps taken, calumnies of all kind poured in to -defame the man whom France had once delighted to honour, and the rest of -his career is a strange mixture of exile, mysterious captivity, and -equally mysterious escape, honourable reception in Rome, and friendship -with the Pope; the last scene of all, perhaps the strangest and most -foreign to all idea of a peaceful, prosperous merchant--for here we see -him in command, not of a fleet of trading ships laden with merchandise, -but of vessels of war sent against the Turks by Pope Calixtus III. -Rumour has it that, far from dying in poverty and sorrow, Jacques -Cœur, at the end of his life, had acquired greater riches than when -at the zenith of his fame in France, but the fact remains that he died -in exile, with a cloud over his memory which was not cleared away until -many years after, when popular favour again smiled on his name, and he -became, what he remains to this day, the citizen-hero of Bourges. - -There is a very charming description--too long to quote here--in Mr. -Henry James’ “Little Tour in France” of the house of Jacques Cœur; -and one point of interest attaching to it is that it is built upon the -old defences of the town, and at the back are many considerable remains -of solid Roman bastions. - -It is one of the most beautiful types of a fifteenth-century town-house -that can possibly be imagined--a veritable remnant of the ancient -prosperity of Bourges, of a time when such houses were no uncommon -feature in the streets--when men who had made their fame and fortune -loved to build for themselves a beautiful home in their native town, and -enrich it with every conceivable ornament. Modern _nouveaux riches_ -indeed do the same, though perhaps not in their native place, where -their memory as butcher or baker might, in their eyes, tell against -them; but the difference between their “mansions” and the hotel of -Jacques Cœur is the difference between an age when the Renaissance -was in its early freshness and an age when it has suffered the -degradations of many modern horrors in the style that is popularly -designated “handsome.” No one looking upon the delicate sculptures, the -wonderful wood carving, the courtyard with its cloister, the lovely -porticos and galleries, can doubt the taste of the man who built and -lived in this “maison pleine de mystères.” - -[Illustration: THE MUSÉE CUJAS, BOURGES] - -The Cathedral of Bourges, which, as Freeman points out, is essentially -French, although at the head of the Aquitanian churches, is well seen in -approaching the town, where it rises above a base of grey tiles and warm -white walls--a long flank of choir and nave, unbroken by transepts. The -thrust of the heavy vaulting is stopped by a perfect forest of flying -buttresses, between whose walls are built chapels, either for chantries -or family monuments. From inside the town it is not much in evidence -until one ascends the Rue Royale, where one comes upon it quite -unexpectedly at the end of what Mr. Henry James calls a “short vague -lane,” somewhat in the same manner as one comes upon St. Paul’s bursting -into view at the top of Cheapside. - -The absence of transepts accounts naturally for the want of any central -tower or lantern, and as there are no heavy transept pillars supporting -the arches at the crossing, to intercept the view, the elevation of the -Host is visible to every worshipper, and the eye travels in one sweep -through nave and choir to the beautifully jewelled windows of rich old -glass, ranging from the twelfth to the seventeenth century. The east -terminal vaulting springs so low as to mask part of the side-lights of -the apse. This is also very noticeable in the east end of Sens -Cathedral, the beauty of whose windows is marred by the vaults cutting -across the heads of the lights. At Bourges, however, the spandril or -cheek of the vault is pierced by a foliated light, showing a certain -amount of the window behind, and thus taking away the appearance of -depression in the low springing vaulting of the apse. - -It is easily recognised that in point of historical importance Nevers, -in comparison with some of its neighbours, dwindles almost into -insignificance, and to the traveller coming from Orléans and Bourges, -fresh from the scene of the triumphs of Joan of Domrémy, and from the -seats of French kings when France was at the height of her power, there -may be a slight sense of disappointment at not finding the same -historical “lions” at Nevers. History, though not passing over the town -entirely, has only touched it with a gentle hand, and Nevers, though -possessed of plenty of material for making itself a name, has never -really risen very far above being the capital of the Nivernais. It -existed in Roman days under the Celtic name of Noviodunum; Cæsar made -use of it as a military depôt in his Gallic campaign, and thought the -town was of sufficient importance to be a storehouse for the imperial -treasure; its countship dates from the tenth century, and it became the -seat of a bishop, although later than many of the Auvergne cities. Yet -the counts of Nevers never made a stir in the world, as did Odo and -Thibaut of Chartres, or the Fulks and Geoffreys of Angers, and nowhere -on its ecclesiastical roll do we find a name like Hilary of Poitiers or -Martin of Tours. Despite these early deficiencies, however, Nevers has -much to interest the casual visitor, and there are four principal -attractions--the Cathedral of St. Cyr, the Romanesque church of St. -Etienne, the ducal palace (now the Palais de Justice), and the Porte du -Croux. - -[Illustration: THE HÔTEL-DE-VILLE, NEVERS] - -The early church of St. Etienne, begun in 1063, is a fine example of a -Romanesque building. It is also a very severe example, with a nave of -round-headed pier arches, double-arcaded triforium and small clerestory -lights. The bays of the nave are modified in the choir by the pier -arches being stilted, by a small triple-lighted triforium, and by more -importance being given to the clerestory windows. There are, also, -monolithic columns and hollow-necked capitals, which are unusual in -France. The church is covered by a barrel vault, the crossing of the -transepts being crowned by a dome. Mr. Spiers, in his book on -“Architecture East and West,” says: “The French builders of the South of -France have always had the credit of being the originators of the barrel -vault, with its stone or tile roof, absolutely incombustible, lying -direct on the vault; to them also, I contend now, we owe the -development of the dome, with its pendentives set out in a manner -peculiar to themselves, and in no way corresponding to those found in -the East.” - -The Cathedral of St. Cyr is the only church in France--with the -exception of Besançon--which possesses an apse at both the east and west -ends. St. Gall in Switzerland, Mittelzall, Laack and many other German -churches show this remarkable plan of a western tribune or paradise. In -some instances it was used as a tomb-house, with entrance from without -by means of a staircase. In the old basilicas, however, the tribune was -not unfrequently at the west end, so that the officiating priest could -at the same time face the east and also his congregation. The crypt at -the west end, with its fine Romanesque capitals, is very interesting, -and dates from the early part of the eleventh century, being about -contemporary with that of the Cathedral of Auxerre. The original church, -with its two transept arches of the same date, was lengthened eastwards -in the thirteenth century, and later on had the further addition made of -a choir with an apsidal termination; the chancel and nave are not -separated by transepts, but the two merge quietly into each other by -simple contact. - -[Illustration: PORTE DU CROUX, NEVERS] - -One afternoon, while contemplating this strange church, our attention -was diverted from arch and apse by the rustle of a small bridal -procession entering by a side door and being received by a priest who -was waiting at an altar in one of the chapels. After some formalities of -examining the certificate of civil registry, the ceremony began; and it -was very interesting in its brevity and friendliness. In the English -church the priest addresses the principals, with a kind of austere -familiarity, by their Christian names, be they princes or paupers. But -here such a liberty is rendered impossible by the natural social -politeness of the French, and the contracting parties are reminded of -their marriage obligations under the courteous appellations of Monsieur -and Mademoiselle. - -The ducal palace is quite close to the Cathedral. “We find,” Freeman -says, “the two great central objects, State and Church, sitting -becomingly side by side.” The ducal days of Nevers date only from the -end of the sixteenth century, when François Ier, with his usual love -of display, bestowed a peerage upon the Nivernais. Before this its -feudal overlords went by the more mediæval title of count, and the -palace (built a century before the count became a duke) has reared -itself upon the foundation of their ancient stronghold. The fourth -attraction of Nevers, the high square gateway tower known as the Porte -du Croux, may also be regarded as a relic of feudal days, seeing that -it dates from 1398, and was evidently part of the town’s defences. It is -a noble specimen of mediæval defence, a tall gateway tower, protected, -like the Porte Guillaume at Chartres, by its ancient fosse--long lancet -openings running up above a low round archway and two pointed turrets -flanking the hatchet-shaped central roof, with the treacherous line of -machicolation below. In the middle of the sixteenth century Nevers -passed to an Italian master, one of the Gonzagas of Mantua, from whom, a -hundred years later, Mazarin bought it back again, and left it at his -death to the Mancini family, who held it until the Revolution. - -Most French towns nowadays fill their shops with a display of local -pottery, good, bad and indifferent; the industry of Nevers, however, is -an old-established one, dating from the occupation of these very -Gonzagas, who came from a land where the faïence industry, as well as -glass-blowing, was fully developed as a fine art, and who founded in -their domain a school of artists which should teach their secrets to -France. The industry has remained in the town ever since, and some of -the modern work is very charming, with its curious trade-sign, the -little green arabesque knot or _nœud vert_, which some fanciful -spirit designed for the sign of Nevers. - - - - -Chapter Thirteen - -MOULINS, LIMOGES, AND PÉRIGUEUX - - -From Nevers an expedition to Moulins is quite practicable, and the -traveller _en route_ to Limoges may think it worth his while to pay a -visit to this town, which stands as a monument to the fallen house of -Bourbon. In the fourteenth century the dukes of Bourbon made Moulins -their residence, and stayed there until the desertion of the Constable -to the cause of Charles V., when the city was annexed by the French -king, François Ier, in an access of righteous indignation. The “Tour -de l’Horloge,” which is the main feature of the town, and looks more -like a Dutch belfry than a French design, formed part of the old château -belonging to this same Constable; and it may be supposed that not only -were his lands confiscated, but his castle destroyed, by way of -punishment for his alliance with the English king and the German -emperor. - -The story of this Constable de Bourbon is an interesting one. He -belonged to the Montpensier branch of the Bourbon family, and in 1505 -married Suzanne de Beaujeu, heiress of the reigning line, so that the -title of duke and the rich Bourbon estates passed into his possession, -and therewith Charles became one of the most brilliant figures in an age -of brilliancy and magnificence. His handsome person and military talents -had even in early youth gained him a place amongst the foremost -gentlemen of France; but his marriage brought him such an access of -wealth and influence that even Louis XII. trembled for the safety of his -throne, and refused to risk any increase in his popularity by giving him -command of the Italian army. In 1515, however, when the Duc d’Angoulême -came to the throne as François Ier, Bourbon was made Constable of -France, and for a time seemed to have attained to all that Fortune could -give him. He was the close friend of the king, and in an era of lavish -display that came with the first François, and did not wholly disappear -until it was swept away by the hand of the Revolution, no favours seemed -too great, no honours too high, for the brilliant and much-envied -favourite. To such a height did Charles de Bourbon reach, that one can, -indeed, hardly wonder at his fall, which was bound to come sooner or -later, and when it did come was all the greater, all the swifter, from -the very might of his power at court. The mischief arose in the first -place through the jealousy of the king’s mother--reports and scandals -were in the air, and François was not slow to take note of them--and of -the growing distrust of his favourite at court. Quarrels arose between -King and Constable. Presently the evil reports took definite shape, and -grew into the grossest of insults; and as soon as it was seen that -Bourbon had lost the King’s favour all tongues were loosened against -him. Added to these troubles, he was engaged in a lawsuit with the -mother of François, the Duchess d’Angoulême, who on the death of his -wife Suzanne claimed the heirship to all his estates and fortune. As may -be imagined, on the principle of striking a fallen man, the case went -against him, and the great duke found himself friendless and penniless, -with large sums owing to him from the State, but with little hope of -payment. Men in those days were not over-chivalrous, and the idea of -clinging still to an ungrateful, ungenerous sovereign who had cast him -off like an old glove did not commend itself to a nature like that of -Charles de Montpensier. He resolved, since France would have none of -him, to try his fortune with Germany, and accordingly joined the cause -of Charles V., to whom for a time he gave his best service, and then, -finding the imperial promises, too, like the proverbial pie-crust, -determined to carve out honours for himself and find a kingdom in -Italy. He marched to Rome with a division under his command, and made a -bold attack upon the city walls, but an arrow from the ramparts, shot, -so one story goes, by Benvenuto Cellini, the famous sculptor and court -musician to the Pope, put an end to his ambition, and the Constable died -in harness outside the walls of Rome at the very outset of his gallant -attempt to cast off the yoke of kings and make his fortune by his own -sword. - -Of Bourbon’s château there remains only the tower bearing the curious -name of the Mal-Coiffée, and a Renaissance pavilion--an appendage found -in the castle of every great noble of this time. - -In the eleventh century Moulins was one of the more southerly fortresses -to hold out against William of Normandy. It had been commanded by a -certain Wimund, who surrendered it to Henry, the French king. As an -important outpost it was garrisoned strongly and put under the command -of Guy of Geoffrey, Count of Gascony, presently to become William VIII. -of Aquitaine. The Norman duke, however, was advancing upon Arques, which -was within an ace of surrender from hunger, and with little difficulty -he obtained terms from the garrison. News of this defeat soon flew to -Moulins, and its commander seems to have been instantly seized with an -access either of panic or of prejudice--the two bore a curious -relation in those days--and without giving the Normans time so much as -to come within sight of the town, he withdrew his garrison and left -Moulins with all speed. - -[Illustration: MOULINS] - -The Cathedral at Moulins has a curious misfit of nave and chancel. The -former is of the thirteenth century, with a high clerestory and rather -low triforium arches; the latter is Flamboyant, with a flat wall -termination to the east end, and seems to have been built without any -regard to the pre-existing nave; at any rate, the main piers do not -meet, and a small bay of no particular style is introduced literally as -a stop-gap. - -An excellent hotel--the “Central”--makes Limoges a convenient -stopping-place on the southern road, irrespective of its attractions to -those interested in faïence and enamel work; but there are plenty of -other interests within the town, and Limoges may, indeed, speak for -itself in this respect, by reason of its standing on a hill, overlooking -a river, and containing, in the old quarter at least, ancient houses and -crooked streets enough to satisfy any craving for the picturesque. The -town slopes up a hill rising from the Vienne, and really divides into -two distinct parts, _ville_ and _cité_; the _ville_ is the newer town -straggling up the slope, while the _cité_, the original camping-ground -of the Lemovices, occupies the quarter near the river. So distinct were -these two in the Middle Ages that we even read of war between them as -between two separate states, the _ville_ led by the abbot of Saint -Martial, the _cité_ by the bishop. The great church of the river quarter -is the Cathedral of Saint Etienne, built, so tradition has it, upon the -remains of a former church erected by Saint Martial, and dating from -1273-1327, with a few later alterations. The west end terminates in the -substructure of an old Romanesque campanile, resting on pillars. “The -lowest story,” says Freeman, “after a fashion rare but not unique, stood -open. Four large columns with their round arches supported a kind of -cupola.” Under the choir is a crypt, dating from the eleventh century, -and thus at each end of the later church is a relic of an older time. - -Limoges had formerly been favourable to the English, but since the dukes -of Berri and Bourbon had laid siege to the town, and had been aided by -Bertrand du Guesclin, the inhabitants, including the bishop and the -governor, gave up their somewhat wavering allegiance and turned to -France. On hearing of this defection the Prince of Wales flew into a -great passion and “swore by the soul of his father, which he had never -perjured, that he would not attend to anything before he had punished -Limoges; and that he would make the inhabitants pay dearly for their -treachery.” The price they had to give was the safety of their city. -Edward marched upon Limoges from Cognac with a large force; but the new -masters had garrisoned the town so strongly that it was impossible to -take it by assault. He therefore resolved upon another and a more -terrible way. He undermined the fortifications, and set fire to the -mine, so that a great breach was made. Froissart describes the -inhabitants of the town as very repentant of their treachery, but adds -poignantly that their penitence did little good, now that they were no -longer the masters; and certainly it was not rewarded by mercy. The -English troops rushed into the breach and poured down the narrow -streets, massacring right and left, plundering and burning, sparing -neither women nor children; and when the Prince at last turned back to -Cognac, he left behind him ruin and desolation where, a few days before, -had been strength and prosperity. During this terrible time the Church -of Saint Etienne happily escaped from damage, although all the rest of -the old town--“old” even in 1370--seems to have been destroyed. An -interesting reminder of more modern history remains in the name of one -of the streets. The Cathedral is connected with the Place Jourdan by -the “Rue du 71^{ième} Mobiles”; and this street is so named in -recognition of the valour shown by this regiment in the field, and in -the memory of those killed during the Prussian war. It is an assurance -that their heroism and endurance in a hopeless struggle are not -forgotten, and that an equal devotion to their country will be shown, -should the need arise, by succeeding generations of their -fellow-citizens. Monuments are not readily subscribed for, nor are -places where they may be erected easily found. A permanent testimony to -the gallant services of a regiment might be borne by calling a street -after its name. London accorded a great welcome to its volunteers at the -termination of the Boer war. Is there any street or place called after -the name of the City Imperial Volunteers? - -[Illustration: LIMOGES] - -In a cathedral city like Limoges, where the church itself has a good -deal of interest and the town is not devoid of attraction, one is not -readily inclined to place its industrial interests very high on the list -of things to be seen; yet the fact remains that in this particular place -the chief industry is closely bound up with the town’s history. The -Limoges school of enamel workers had attained celebrity as early as the -twelfth century, when the _champ-levé_, or engraving process, was in -vogue, the ground-work of the plates consisting of graven copper and -the cavities filled in with enamel. This kind of work may well be seen -in Westminster Abbey upon the tomb of Aymer de Valence, Earl of -Pembroke. In the fourteenth century France borrowed from Italy the art -of transparent enamelling, which the artists at Limoges developed into -enamel-painting, and this branch was carried on at Limoges for upwards -of two centuries, until it fell into decay under Louis XIV. and gave -place to the modern miniature style. - -Under François Ier this art of enamel-painting attained to a high -degree of perfection. The sixteenth-century taste inclined always -towards the brilliant and magnificent, and the same love of display and -richness which showed both in dress and in architecture found also -expression in the art of enamelling. One of the most famous artists of -this school came from Limoges, whence he was known as Léonard Limousin. -His work became the pattern of excellence after which all lesser artists -strove. “While some of the works were executed in brilliant colours, -most of them were in monochrome. The background was generally dark, -either black or deep purple, and the design was painted _en grisaille_, -relieved, in the case of figure subjects, by delicate carnation. The -effect was occasionally heightened by appropriate touches of gold, and -in many of the coloured enamels brilliancy was obtained by the use of -silver foil, or paillon, placed beneath a transparent enamel.” - -At Périgueux we seem to have left Northern France in the far distance -and to have taken the first definite step into the Midi. The -architectural pilgrim as he wanders southward is conscious of the -existence of two distinct styles, possessing features dissimilar in -construction and design; in one case he finds barrel-vaulted churches, -in another large churches roofed with pointed domes, whose origin it is -difficult to determine. Of the latter type the church of Saint Front is -a notable instance. It rises above the old quarter, which occupies the -centre of the town, the modern portion, quite distinct from the rest, as -was the case at Limoges, sloping up the hill, and the remnant of the old -Roman city fronting the river. The original Vesunna of the Petrocorii -stood on the left bank of the Isle; the Roman Vesunna crossed to the -other side, and is now represented by the ruins of an amphitheatre, -dating from the third century, and some second-century baths. The old -Château Barrière is also built on Roman fortifications, and two of the -Roman towers still remain, besides the “Tour de Vésone,” which was -probably part of a pagan temple. - -[Illustration: PÉRIGUEUX FROM THE RIVER] - -It is a curious fact that here the ancient remains of the Roman city -should be so much more prominent than is usually the case. At Bourges we -saw the house of Jacques Cœur built upon a Roman foundation, and many -other places keep, in part at least, their Roman walls; but Périgueux -has Roman remains which absorb quite half the interest aroused by the -city on the Isle--the other half being devoted to the church. From the -site of the Gallic Vesunna, on the left side of the river, the Tour de -Vésone is the foremost object, so old that, as Freeman says, it looks -almost modern. “It is a singular fact that, while a mediæval building -can scarcely ever be taken for anything modern, buildings of earlier -date often may. The primeval walls of Alatri might at a little distance -be taken for a modern prison, and this huge round, it must be confessed, -has to some not undiscerning eyes suggested the thought of a modern -gasworks.” Then the partly mediæval Château Barrière attracts notice, -dating at its latest from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and by -its name recalling one of the noblest families of mediæval Périgord. - -With the rise of the abbey of Saint Front, a new town arose also, and -the old quarter shrank up within itself, remaining still the abode of -the nobles and gentlemen and the clergy of Saint Etienne, but yielding -the real precedence to the vigorous new _puy_ higher up the hill. -“Here, as in some measure at Limoges, the tables are turned. The _ville_ -stands apart on the hill, with the air of the original _cité_, while the -real _cité_ abides below, putting on somewhat the look of a suburb.” -Even Saint Etienne, the old Cathedral-church of La Cité, has, owing to -its partially ruined condition, practically renounced its importance -both in intrinsic position and in external appearance. The great tower, -which once stood at the west end, has gone entirely; the cupolas which -crown each bay show the relation to those at Saint Front, and in place -of the eleventh-century apse stands a flat wall, terminating in a choir -of a century later. - -The church of St. Front is “the only domed church in France with the -Greek cross for its plan.” The original building is said to have been -consecrated in 1047 by the Archbishop of Bourges and burnt down in a -great fire in 1120. It was not until after this date that the five-domed -church and the tower on the west side were constructed. “By this time -the Church of Saint Mark at Venice was completed, as far as its main -structure was concerned, and already the panelling of the walls with -marble and the decoration of its vaults and arches with mosaic had made -some progress. It was one of the wonders of Europe, and the idea of -copying its plan and general design would appeal at once to a race of -builders who for more than a century, as I shall prove later on, had -been building domed churches throughout Aquitaine, who were perfectly -acquainted with their own methods of building domes and pendentives, and -therefore would not be obliged to trust to foreign workmen to execute -them.”--MR. R. PHENÉ SPIERS. - -[Illustration: ST. FRONT, PÉRIGUEUX] - -It would be quite out of our province to follow out Mr. Spiers’ -arguments in support of this theory, as it would lead us into the -entangled byways of a discourse on methods of “bedding” and centring -arches and pendentives. Suffice it to say that he clearly points out the -difference which exists between French and Byzantine domes, capitals and -voussoirs and the prevalence of the Aquitaine style, and on this -evidence maintains that French, and not Greek or Venetian architects, -built the abbey church of Saint Front. This conclusion is also supported -by Viollet-le-Duc, who expresses his opinion that Saint Front was -undoubtedly built by a Frenchman who had studied either the actual -Church of Saint Mark at Venice or who had had opportunities of seeing -the design of the Venetian architects. Its general conception, it is -true, was Venetian and quasi-Oriental, but its construction and details -do not recall in any way the decorative sculpture or method of building -which obtained at St. Mark’s at Venice. As to the ornament, it belongs -to the late Romanesque style. - -Saint Front must indeed have appeared a strange erection and unique in -conception amongst its sister churches, and no doubt exercised a great -influence over the builders of churches north of the Garonne in the -eleventh and twelfth centuries. The infusion of Oriental art into this -part of the country is explained by the distinguished French -archæologist, M. Félix de Verheilh, as partly due to the presence of -Venetian colonies established at Limoges. He says that the commerce of -the Levant was carried into France and into England along trade routes -existing between Marseilles or Narbonne and La Rochelle or Mantes. The -landing of Eastern produce at these ports on the Mediterranean and its -carriage overland to the north-western seaboard of France was rendered -necessary to protect it from the Spanish and Arab pirates who infested -the coasts of Spain and Africa, and also to avoid the risk of storms and -heavy seas of the Straits of Gibraltar. - - - - -Chapter Fourteen - -ANGOULÊME AND POITIERS - - -Angoulême has at a distance more the appearance of an Italian than of a -French town. The heavy red pantiles, the campanile and dome of the -Cathedral, the little terraces sloping up the hill, all recall the -southern towns; but the river with its fringing poplars finally -proclaims the city’s nationality. There is nothing of especial interest -to be seen in the town itself. Angoulême--Ecolisma of the Gauls--has of -course had its history; it suffered pillage by Visigoth and Norman, was -annexed by England, re-taken by France, occupied again by the English, -and finally made over to its rightful sovereign in 1369. - -During the Hundred Years’ War Angoulême was in the possession of the -English, and under the governorship of Sir John Norwich surrendered to -France. The Duke of Normandy lay, we are told, “for a very considerable -time” before the town, and the inhabitants waited daily for the Earl of -Derby, who was to relieve them, but who showed no signs of approach. The -French made a raid upon the English cattle under the guidance of the -seneschal of Beaucaire and captured not merely the beasts, who--strange -laxity--were pasturing outside the walls of the town, but several of the -English who rushed out to recover their possessions. Finally the -governor began to lose hope; Derby was nowhere within reach, the French -gave no signs of withdrawal, and worse than all, the townsfolk began to -murmur and to declare as far as they dared for the enemy. Norwich and -his immediate followers found themselves in some danger; but by a clever -stratagem they escaped from surrendering themselves to Normandy. A truce -was called, and under cover of this the governor and his friends sallied -quietly forth from the gates, passed through the entire French army, -without hurt, and took the road to Aiguillon before the enemy had -realised what they were about. Meanwhile the disaffected within the town -readily gave themselves up to the Duke, and received his mercy. - -Here, however, as at Nevers, an up-and-down history has left little mark -upon the town, and Freeman’s criticism is no more than the truth: -“Except we went on purpose for the view, we should hardly go to -Angoulême at all.” Saint Pierre at Angoulême is another example of the -domed church that we left at Périgueux; but while the cupolas carry on -the same half-Byzantine idea as prevails in Saint Front, the tower at -the north transept brings in a train of thought which is distinctly -Italian; moreover, at Périgueux all five cupolas are well seen from the -outside, whereas here only one appears, to balance, or rather to -contrast with, the north tower. Once inside the church, however, the -other domes appear, roofing over the nave, which is without aisles, -after the manner of the Angevin churches. In its original form the -Cathedral of Saint Pierre was begun early in the twelfth century--about -1120--but it has been twice restored, once in 1654 and once, in the -middle of the last century, by M. Abadie. - -It was planned simply with a nave roofed by four cupolas and a choir -with four radiating apsidal chapels. Later on in the century the love of -building places of worship larger and more suited to the growing desire -for an enriched ceremonial and elaborate ritual resulted in the addition -of transepts surmounted by towers, which gave to the Cathedral of Saint -Pierre at Angoulême the distinction of being one of the first, if not -the first, of domed churches built on the plan of a Latin cross. Of the -two towers only one, the northern tower, exists to this day, the -southern transept being roofed by a flat conical dome. Certain further -additions were made about the same time, such as the western façade with -its sculptured portal. The black lines of the ashlar work, as if ruled -with a lead pencil, detract very much from the impressiveness of the -interior, as they give undue emphasis to the horizontal joints and -arrest the eye in its first natural flight from floor to vault. - -Saint Pierre at Poitiers is a church of a very different description. -Certain characteristics it has which connect it with the Angevin style, -but unlike most of the Angevin churches, it has aisles throughout. From -the outside the appearance is that of a single mass, long and low, and -very wide, for the aisles are nearly as broad as the nave; as at -Bourges, there is no central tower at the crossing; but then at Bourges -we have a great French church, a mighty mass rising sheer up from the -ground, unbroken by any transept; here at Poitiers there are transepts, -but the line of their towers comes below the line of the roof, and the -effect given is one of length without height. Height is also wanting in -the two unfinished and unequal west towers, and the east end literally -falls flat, by reason of its bare terminal wall; the apse, to which one -grows so accustomed in a French church, is seen only from the interior. -It is oblong in plan, showing, as M. Viollet-le-Duc points out, no -sign either of choir or sanctuary. The transepts are more like side -chapels with altars on their eastern walls. There is no sign of northern -influence, and the church is in many of its features unique and without -imitators. Certain details of construction bring it into line with St. -Maurice at Angers; it is an ordinary example of the churches of Poitou, -with their three naves of equal height and Byzantine cupolas. - -[Illustration: ANGOULÊME] - -To the south of the Cathedral lies what alone would make Poitiers worth -a visit, without the other churches which call for notice--the little -Temple Saint-Jean, said to be the oldest baptistery in France, and -dating probably from the fourth century. Once inside, we can realise the -position of the officiating priest and the place occupied by the rooms -where the converts disrobed themselves and whence they were conducted to -the central basin, fed by a continual stream of water, where stood the -bishop, the typical representative of the first Baptist. Freeman says: -“It is the one monument of the earliest Christian times which lived on, -so to speak, in its own person, and is not simply represented by a later -building on the same site. It is the truest monument of Hilary.” - -The name of Poitiers churches really is legion, but there are two more -which should not be passed over--first, Notre-Dame-la-Grande, a -beautiful Romanesque church standing in the market-place, with a long -barrel-vault roof, unbroken by transepts, and terminated by towers -ornamented with “fish-scale” pattern; next the church of Sainte -Radégonde, the queen-saint of the sixth century, wife to the first -Chlothar. She lived among the nuns of her own foundation of the Sainte -Croix, and lies buried in the crypt of her church, which contains also a -marble statue, erected indeed to her memory, but in the likeness of -another queen who had few pretensions to saintliness--Anne of Austria, -mother of Louis XIV. - -Fortunatus also became a monk of Poitiers, that he might at least have -the satisfaction of living near this queen, whom he worshipped. - -The nuns of Sainte Croix went to England and founded there a sisterhood -on the Green Croft near Cambridge, and this priory remained until the -end of the fifteenth century, when the foundation was suppressed by -Bishop Alcock, and became part of the corporation of Jesus College. - -[Illustration: POITIERS] - -It is with a certain feeling of apology toward tradition and childish -days that one leaves to the very last the mention of the Black Prince’s -great fight. Not until we have reached fairly mature years do we realise -that Poitiers has a cathedral and a baptistery and many churches; but -there are very few of us who do not associate with the earliest days -of history books the name of the “Battle of Poitiers, 1356.” More -properly it is the Battle of Maupertuis, and Freeman indeed denies its -right to “come into the immediate story of the city.” - -A short account may not be out of place here, however, since the battle, -whether in or out of Poitiers, does, nevertheless, stand out as a -landmark in the long struggle between English and French. Having stormed -and taken the Castle of Pomerantin, Prince Edward marched downwards -through Anjou and Touraine; and from the scarcity of fodder on the way -he began to conclude that the French king could not be far off. Arrived -at a village near Chauvigny, on the Vienne, he engaged in a skirmish -with some of the enemy, and learned that John’s army had marched forward -towards Poitiers; therefore, forbidding any further engagement, he -pushed on with all possible speed, and came up with the French some -leagues from the town, on the plains of Maupertuis. The French king -himself was just about to enter Poitiers, but hearing that the English -had come up and were attacking his rear-guard, he turned back into the -fields and there encamped his forces. Meanwhile the English entrenched -themselves in a well-guarded position between hedges and vineyards, and -waited there until the morning, when John’s army rode out into the -plain. “Then might be seen all the nobility of France, richly dressed -out in brilliant armour, with banners and pennons gallantly displayed; -for all the flower of the French nobility were there; no knight or -squire, for fear of dishonour, dared remain at home.” At the last moment -an attempt at mediation was made by the Cardinal de Périgord; but as the -French king would listen to no terms save unconditional surrender, which -the English prince refused, his labour was in vain; and the following -day the armies drew up in line of battle. “When the Prince of Wales saw, -from the departure of the Cardinal without being able to obtain any -honourable terms, that a battle was inevitable, and that the King of -France held both him and his army in great contempt, he thus addressed -himself to them: ‘Now, my gallant fellows, what though we be a small -company as in regard to the puissance of our enemy, let us not be cast -down therefore, for victory lieth not in the multitude of people, but -where God will send it; if it fortune that the journey be ours, we shall -be the most honoured people of all the world; and if we die in our right -quarrel, I have the king, my father, and brethren, and also ye have good -friends and kinsmen; these shall avenge us. Therefore, for God’s sake, I -require you to do your devoirs this day, for if God be pleased and -Saint George, this day ye shall see me a good knight.’” Then the battle -began in earnest, the English shouting “Saint George for Guienne!” The -French answering with “Montjoie Saint Denis!” Froissart gives a very -long and detailed account of the fight in all its part, with lists of -the nobles and knights who were killed and wounded, and in many cases -stories of their several adventures--none of which have place here. It -will be enough to say with the old chronicler himself, that, in spite of -the odds against the Black Prince, “it often happens that fortune in -love and war turns out more favourable and wonderful than could have -been hoped for or expected. To say the truth, this battle which was -fought near Poitiers, in the Plains of Beauvois and Maupertuis, was very -bloody and perilous; many gallant deeds of arms were performed that were -never known, and the combatants on each side suffered much.” The rest is -known to every one, the taking of King John of France, the gallant work -of the archers, and the commendation of the Prince by his father, who -had watched the fight from afar. - -Even without the battle the story of Poitiers is a sufficiently varied -one, and connected in a great measure with the story of England, if it -be remembered that Eleanor, wife of our Henry II., was also Countess of -Poitou and brought it to England as part of her dowry; and in English -hands it remained until Philip Augustus saw fit to confiscate all our -French territory in 1204. After the peace of Brétigny Poitou passed to -England once more, only to be surrendered to Bertrand du Guesclin in the -course of the next ten years. Here at Poitiers Charles VII. was -proclaimed King of France; and, in contrast, it is likewise interesting -to note that here also was held a court of inquiry upon the -misdemeanours of Joan of Arc, by whose aid Charles was not only -proclaimed but crowned King. After this the English prestige in France -dwindled to nothing, and therefore the joint history stops at this -point, and the history of Poitou and Poitiers stands for France alone. - - - - -Chapter Fifteen - -LA ROCHELLE AND BORDEAUX - - -La Rochelle calls to mind two things principally: first, the great -resistance of the Huguenots in the sixteenth century, and then the siege -and the expeditions under Buckingham in the early days of Charles I. -These two events are really part of the same struggle for supremacy -between Calvinist and Romanist, only divided by a period of quiescence -under the rule of Henri de Navarre, who, having professed both faiths in -his day, probably knew how to keep the two parties at peace. Before the -religious wars La Rochelle was known as a flourishing and peaceful -seaport town; but no sooner had Condé and Coligny shown their faces -there in 1568 as leaders of the Huguenot faction, than a spirit of -warfare, provocative as well as defensive, seemed to pervade the town, -and even on the high seas the cruisers of La Rochelle were a terror to -the Romanist, since in the cause of the true faith no Huguenot stopped -at piracy and plunder. From this first struggle La Rochelle emerged -with flying colours, but in the days of Richelieu and Buckingham it was -less successful, and traces of its surrender exist to-day in the mole, -cutting off the outer harbour, which Richelieu laid down to prevent the -English fleet from gaining further entrance to the port. - -[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR, LA ROCHELLE] - -The first attack on Buckingham’s part was made in the summer of 1627. A -war with France, impending only in 1625, but swift to take definite -shape, was among the inconvenient legacies bequeathed by James I. to his -son. With the utmost difficulty a forced loan was obtained from -Parliament in order to meet the war expenses, and the Duke of Buckingham -was put in command of the fleet which sailed from Portsmouth in June to -the relief of the Huguenots whom Richelieu was besieging in La Rochelle. -This task was not an easy one. Before gaining the harbour the fleet must -pass the fort of Saint Martin on the island of Ré. This island had been -strongly garrisoned by Richelieu, but the English squadron lay between -the fort and the mainland, cutting off all possibility of relief; and -after being blockaded for nearly two months the French commander -signified to Buckingham his willingness to surrender the next morning. -The duke was in the highest spirits when the welcome news arrived, and -lay down to rest that night with the joyful certainly of carrying all -before him, driving the Cardinal from before the port and entering La -Rochelle in triumph. But the morning broke on a very different picture. -During the night an easterly gale had sprung up and had blown a fleet of -French provision boats over to Ré, through the very midst of the English -ships; and once more Saint Martin’s prepared for defence. Nothing -daunted, Buckingham sent to England for fresh troops, and if the supply -had depended upon the king he might still have gained his victory; but -the Parliament, now a growing power in England, and a power whose growth -was making itself felt, overruled the royal pleasure, and found here the -long-wished for opportunity of crushing out the war, of which the -country was heartily tired, by refusing to grant further supplies. -Probably the fact that Buckingham was no favourite with the people also -helped to turn the scale against him. At any rate a French force came up -before any word was sent from England, and the duke was obliged to -withdraw from La Rochelle with considerable losses. The sequel is well -known. In the following year Charles prorogued his troublesome -Parliament, and once more the favourite set off for Portsmouth, never to -reach France, since the dagger of John Felton put an end to his -ambitions and avenged, so said the English people, his country’s -wrongs. Thus La Rochelle was left entirely to the tender mercies of -Richelieu. The Huguenot power was utterly broken by the year’s siege -which followed, and La Rochelle found itself despoiled of the prestige -which it enjoyed as the stronghold of the Protestant faith. - -[Illustration: THE HARBOUR OF LA ROCHELLE] - -La Rochelle of to-day is perhaps little known to the casual traveller. -Inland France has so many attractions that most travellers never get so -far as the sea-coast; great churches and great rivers draw them -elsewhere, and if they want sea breezes there is always Trouville or -Etretat ready to hand. Nevertheless, La Rochelle is one of the most -beautiful of sea-ports in France; and this is no faint praise, for all -towns of this kind are bound to have a peculiar charm of their own--that -kind of charm which belongs to a harbour, and the coming and going of -ships, and the open sea beyond. To this the town adds certain -attractions of its own, among which are the beautiful colours of the -boat-sails, and the old grey forts guarding the harbour on either side. -These ancient sentinel towers are relics of the prosperity of La -Rochelle, and date back to a day before Buckingham sailed up to the -port, before the name of Huguenot had ever been heard in France. On the -left hand the Tour Saint-Nicolas, built at the end of the fourteenth -century, raises four round crenellated turrets above the harbour; on -the other side stands the Tour de la Chaîne, a grim, solid-looking round -fortress; and farther on still may be seen the stone _flèche_ of the -Tour de la Lanterne, looking from a distance like the spire of a church. -And the mention of churches brings us naturally to the Cathedral, which, -built in the middle of the eighteenth century, has so very little to say -for itself that one cannot help feeling it to be a poor set-off to the -sea-board of the town; though perhaps it might in any case be useless to -look for beauty of this kind in a town whose inhabitants ranked the -adorning of churches as one of the deadly sins of Rome. This cathedral -was, it is true, built long after La Rochelle had ceased to be a -Huguenot stronghold; but when we remember that the beauty of any former -church would have fallen a victim to the fanatic’s hammer, we can -forgive the architect, and cease to mourn for what might have been. The -Cathedral of La Rochelle is not a thing of beauty, but at any rate it -has not displaced anything that might have pleased us better. - -From La Rochelle to Bordeaux the road runs by heavy-leafed plantations -of every kind of tree, notably acacias, whose great size is particularly -apparent to an English eye. Then, as the Bordelais comes nearer, we run -down to the smooth, peaceful Charente, winding quietly through its -meadow lands, not unlike the upper reaches of the Thames, and yet very -unlike in one respect, since the water is completely deserted, and even -in the height of summer few pleasure boats disturb its smooth surface. -Boating as an amusement _per se_ has very little place in the programme -of a French country gentleman, though bathing and fishing are both -included in it; and the same thing is noticeable nearer Paris, on the -Marne, where a pair-oar gig, if ever it got there, would part its -timbers through sheer neglect, and break up in a few months. - -Bordeaux itself is worthy of its reputation, and is certainly, strictly -speaking, a “handsome” city, with a waterway almost as grand as the -Thames at London, spanned by a beautiful bridge of red-brick and stone, -built in 1822, which might well serve as a model for some of our London -bridges. It is a pleasant place enough when once the fact of its being a -large and modern city is accepted; and although it has not the romance -of the inland hill-towns nor the picturesque situation of La Rochelle, -it has always been a city of note, ever since the Gauls came down to the -river and called their settlement Burdigala. For three centuries it -belonged to England; the same Countess Eleanor, of whom we heard at -Poitiers, brought it to her English husband, Henry II., and for some -reason it does not seem to have been included in the general -confiscation of English territory under Philip Augustus, so it remained -an English town and shared in English victories and defeats until -Charles VII. was crowned, and the English retired by degrees to their -own land. Bordeaux was also the birthplace of poor, weak, well-meaning -Richard II.; and his father, the victor of Poitiers, held his court in -the town for some time. Here he held, too, his conference upon the -affairs of Castile. - -Don Pedro was at that time engaged in a struggle for the Castilian -throne with his brother, who was not the lawful heir. Neither prince -seems to have been blameless in his conduct, and Edward declared that he -only upheld the claim of Pedro on account of his lawful birth, and not -from any individual deserts; but this declaration apparently failed to -satisfy the rest of the English and Gascons within Bordeaux, and it was -finally decided to summon a council, composed of all the barons in -Aquitaine, “when Don Pedro might lay before them his situation, and his -means of satisfying them, should the prince undertake to conduct him -back to his own country, and to do all in his power to replace him upon -his throne.” The conference resulted in a decision in favour of Pedro, -and by order of the English king a certain number of knights and -men-at-arms were sent from Bordeaux to escort the claimant back to Spain -and to help him to regain his own, all expenses being paid by Castile--a -frugal method of rendering aid! - -The Cathedral is attributed to the eleventh and twelfth centuries, and -as it now stands consists of a large nave, without aisles, which were -swept away for purposes of roof construction, as at Angers and in -Notre-Dame-de-la-Coûture at Le Mans. According to Mr. Bond, an early -tower was built in 550, which was noticed by Fortunatus. In plan the -building shows the influence of the well-known church of the Cordeliers -at Toulouse. “Its western portion is a vast nave without aisles, sixty -feet wide internally and nearly two hundred feet in length. Its -foundations show that, like that at Angoulême, it was originally roofed -by three great domes; but being rebuilt in the thirteenth century, it is -now covered by an intersecting vault ... and an immense array of flying -buttresses to support its thrust, all which might have been dispensed -with had the architects retained the original simple and more beautiful -form of roof.” - -Within easy distance of Bordeaux is Libourne, a little town upon the -Dordogne, which, though now overshadowed by the great port of the -Garonne, was in the Middle Ages of almost equal importance in the -wine-growing country, and had a special interest as being one of the -_villes bastides_ found in several places in the south of France, -especially in Guyenne. These really owe their origin to England, for -they were founded by Edward I. during his French wars as refuges for -those unable to take an active part in the struggle. - -Mr. Barker, in his “Two Summers in Guyenne,” gives a very interesting -description of these towns, noticing particularly the straight lines of -their streets. “In contrast to the typical mediæval town that grew up -slowly around some abbey or at the foot of some strong castle that -protected it, and in the building of which, if any method was observed, -it was that of making the streets as crooked as possible, to assist the -defenders in stopping the inward rush of an enemy, the streets of the -_bastide_ were all drawn at right angles to each other.” The _bastides_ -were built merely for shelter, not, as was the case with other towns, -for defence as well, though in the lawless days of the thirteenth -century it was sometimes necessary even here to put up a wall, palisade -and moat. Libourne has a remnant of such fortification in a quaint old -round Tour de l’Horloge with machicolations and a pointed roof. The term -_bastide_ was also applied to a single work of defence which, although -isolated, formed part of a continuous system of fortification. A single -house outside the walls of a town was also called a _bastide_. - -Passing out from Libourne, we reach the very heart of this wine-growing -country--a true country of the south it seems in summer, with the -endless stretches of vineyards--row after row of green, twisting, -climbing wreaths round their stiff, straight poles, under a blazing -southern sky, and every now and then a single hill rising suddenly out -of the plain, whilst the river slips quietly away in the distance to the -sea. On, or rather in, one of these hills the hermit Émilion fixed his -cave-dwelling, far back in the legendary years of history; and -now--strange contrast!--the town founded by this ascetic, abstemious -saint owes its fame to the purple juice of the grape, and sends forth -from its slopes not water from his dripping well, but good red wine to -gladden the heart of man. A visitor to Saint-Émilion in early summer -will find a curious greenness over everything--not only in the freshness -of the vineyards. When evening falls the very labourers rise from their -task and move home through the dusk like so many green spectres--though -from no other cause than from their constant watering of the vines with -sulphur-water to kill off the devouring insects. - -[Illustration: BORDEAUX] - -Irrespective of wine-growers, Saint-Émilion has many things to be -seen on its crescent-shaped hill. There is the wonderful church, carved -out of the cliff-face, now in ruins, but possessing store enough of -massive square piers and round-headed arches to bear witness to its -ancient grandeur; and a separate Gothic tower and spire of the twelfth -century points a long tapering finger above the narrow creeper-grown -streets and low, crowded roofs on the hill-side. The church to which the -tower really belongs is not this curious monument carved from the rock, -but the collegiate church farther up the hill, now used as a parish -church. Other monuments there are besides--the icy-cold, moss-grown -vault known as the “Grotte de Saint-Émilion,” where superstitious -maidens drop pins into the well to find out when they shall be married; -the ruined convent of the Cordeliers, with its grass-grown courts and -ivy-covered cloister arcades, and the great walnut tree whose branches -shade an empty, silent place where once the brothers chanted and the -novices worked at their simple tasks; and the cave-dwellings, where -seven of the Girondists hid from the wrath of the Terror, sheltered and -fed by a kindly couple who paid later for their good nature by the -guillotine, after four of the seven refugees had been captured and -executed. - -The ancient Saint-Émilion--the town to which most of these buildings -carry us back--is in reality an old English fortress, growing from the -oppidum of the Gauls to the fortified stronghold which passed to Edward -I. and continued, with a few interruptions, to enjoy the privileges of a -royal borough of England until the fifteenth century. - - - - -Chapter Sixteen - -SENS, AUXERRE, AND TROYES - - -The Senones, who settled on the banks of the river Yonne and founded the -city of Agenticum, which we know to-day as Sens, were one of the most -influential people in Gaul--even the Parisii were considered of less -account--and did not submit to the Roman yoke until the final defeat of -Vercingetorix. The change of dominion, however, in no way detracted from -the importance of their capital city, but rather enhanced it, since the -conquerors made the town metropolis of the fourth Lugdunensis, and were -at some pains to rebuild it in a fashion befitting its position. Six -great highways met within its walls; arches, aqueducts and amphitheatres -sprang up all over the city, and Agenticum henceforth became a -prosperous and powerful stronghold, well able to withstand the -incursions of later days, of which there were many, on the part of the -Franks and the Saracens and, finally, of the Normans. - -Christianity was introduced by the martyr-saints Savinian and Potentian, -who, as at Chartres, built the first church in the city, thus laying, so -tradition has it, the foundations of the Cathedral which was to come in -after times. The town then became an archbishopric, and later, like most -towns of any standing, a hereditary countship, the proximity of the two -overlords, spiritual and temporal, leading not infrequently to -disastrous results, especially when in the twelfth century a communal -power sprang up and contributed a third factor to the contest. - -In 1234 Louis IX. married Marguerite de Provence in the Cathedral of -Saint Etienne, and on his return from the Holy Land, five years later, -with the precious relics purchased from the Emperor of Constantinople, -the reliquary and its contents were paraded through the streets in a -palanquin, borne by the king and his brother, Robert d’Artois, who -walked bare-headed and bare-footed at the head of the procession, -casting aside all their royal state--which, indeed, poor Louis would -have gladly left for ever--to set an example of reverent homage to the -people of Sens. Thomas à Becket lived for some months in the Abbey of -Sainte-Colombe by the river-side, founded by one of the Chlothars in the -seventh century in memory of the young virgin saint who suffered -martyrdom under the rule of Aurelian. - -Sens, on its quiet, graceful little river, “bending ... link after link -through a never-ending rustle of poplar-trees,” is a picturesque place, -like most towns which have left their importance behind them in the -Middle Ages, and have come down to modern days unmodernised. Standing on -the far bank of the Yonne, looking across the river reaches, one gets a -very delightful picture of the town, almost like that of some of our -English Cathedral cities--the shining river, the green water-meadows, -and above them the deeper green of the grand old trees, clustering round -the great church, whose high grey tower rises from their midst, watching -the town, meadows and river by day and by night, when men wake and when -they take their rest, as it has watched ever since William the architect -built up its stones and brought their pattern across the water that the -church of Britain’s first Christian city might share the glories of her -sister in France. - -Sens is not very well known to travellers, although there is no -cathedral in the whole breadth of France which ought to be dearer in the -eyes of every Englishman, on account of its being in all probability the -parent of the choir of Canterbury. Hither Becket is said to have fled, -and to have sought sanctuary at the altar of St. Thomas against the -persecution of Henry II. Viollet-le-Duc describes St. Etienne as a -cathedral unique both in plan and style of architecture--a mixture of -arches both round and pointed, such as we find in the choir of -Canterbury, showing how much it is under the influence of the Burgundy -school. This is proved by the great similarity of plan between the other -Burgundy cathedrals, and it is surmised that after the eleventh century -Autun, Langres, Auxerre and Sens possessed certain dispositions of plan -peculiar to themselves, which were adopted in the Eastern portions of -Canterbury. There appears to be no precise information as to the early -foundation of the Cathedral of Sens, and the architect who designed it -is unknown. The west front exhibits a number of fine sculptures relating -to the lives of St. Stephen, St. John, and other saints; in the central -portion, which dates from the end of the twelfth century, religion has -given place to the arts and sciences, which are represented by twelve -sculptured figures, now in a mutilated condition--Grammar, Medicine (a -figure holding plants), Rhetoric (giving a discourse), Painting -(represented drawing on a tablet placed on the knee), Astronomy, Music, -Philosophy, &c. Under each figure is sculptured an animal or monster; in -one case a lion is devouring a child, an elephant carrying a tower.... -The “encyclopædic spirit” was dominant in the twelfth century, and in -the object lesson of these stones an ignorant and unlettered crowd could -find its elementary instruction. - -[Illustration: SENS] - -Auxerre, which is about twelve miles from the main line between Paris -and Dijon, may be considered as an outpost lying on the threshold of the -Morvan country. Many of the towns in this district, notably Semur and -Avallon, are built on large granite bosses protruding through the -oolitic formation. Auxerre possesses churches as fine as those of any -other city of its size in France. As one enters the town by the lower of -the two bridges which cross the Yonne, the three churches--St. Pierre, -St. Etienne and St. Germain--suddenly burst into view. On the left is -St. Pierre, with its picturesque tower and forecourt entered through a -Renaissance gateway; the Cathedral of St. Etienne with its single tower, -high nave, and girdle of flying buttresses, stands on the highest ground -in the centre of the group; and further eastwards the abbey church of -St. Germain, detached from its spire, spreads out along the beautiful -river front of the Yonne. - -“Towards the middle of the tenth century the Cathedral of St. Etienne -was complete in its main outline; what remained was the building of the -great tower, and all that various labour of final decoration which it -would take more than one generation to accomplish. Certain -circumstances, however, not wholly explained, led to a somewhat rapid -finishing, as it were out of hand, yet with a marvellous fulness at once -and grace. Of the result much has perished, or been transferred -elsewhere; a portion is still visible in sumptuous relics, in stained -glass windows, and, above all, in the reliefs which adorn the west -portals, very delicately carved in a fine firm stone from Tounerre, of -which time has only browned the surface and which, for early mastery in -art, may be compared to the contemporary work in Italy.”--WALTER PATER, -“Imaginary Portraits.” - -The interior of the Cathedral offers one very striking piece of -architectural planning: the Lady Chapel and _chevet_ are joined together -by two slender shafts, an arrangement by which the three features, -ambulatory, _chevet_ and Lady Chapel, are united in one broad design. -This conception gives a very beautiful and harmonious effect. The -eleventh-century spire of St. Germain, which appears quite detached from -the body of the church, is one of the very early stone spires which -exist now in France. It springs from a fairly broad base, and has a -slight entasis or swelling to avoid the appearance of any midway -gathering-in of the outline of the spire. The crypt of the eleventh -century is “deep sunk into the ground and very dark,” having aisles, and -is in plan practically a small edition of the choir of Canterbury, -following the true Burgundian type, the details of its capitals -resembling those of the old crypt of Nevers. Mr. Bond, referring to the -crypt, or _confessio_ of St. Germain, remarks that the burial chamber of -a martyr was called a _confessio_: “where lay one who had confessed and -given witness to his faith by his blood.” The term “Martyrdom,” applied -to the north transept at Canterbury, is an exact equivalent to -_confessio_. - -[Illustration: ST. GERMAIN, AUXERRE] - -Saint Germain, the missionary bishop, lived here, and died at Ravenna; -but his body was brought back from Italy to his birthplace by five pious -sisters, one of whom, canonised under the name of Sainte Maxime, lies -buried in the abbey church founded by the great saint; where also, in -the beautiful crypt, is the tomb of Germain himself, surrounded by a -whole company of dead saints, among them the valiant Saint Loup, who, -when bishop of Auxerre, drove out the Huns under Attila, and saved his -city from destruction. One interesting point in connection with this -abbey is that it is the mother-foundation of Selby in Yorkshire. There -is a long and mythical legend on the subject, teeming of course with -miracles, from which may be gathered that one Bernard of Auxerre -wandered from his native town and settled down--why is not very -clear--upon the banks of the river Ouse, where he led the life of a -hermit. The reports of his sanctity attracted to his cell many persons -in the neighbourhood, influential men amongst them; and he attained such -fame that his hermit’s hut became the nucleus of a large monastery. -However much of this is true, and however much legend, enough remains to -show that the monks at Selby did come from Auxerre. - -In addition to these three churches, it would be impossible to overlook -St. Eusèbe, a church standing in the middle of the town, especially if -it be the traveller’s lot to stay at the excellent Hôtel de l’Épée, and -to occupy a room giving on its court-yard. There cats, cooks, and -chauffeurs combine to enliven the watches of the night, and when the -morning dawns, and the “web of night undone,” the jackdaws and the bells -of St. Eusèbe announce that sleep is no longer befitting, and he -realises that a restless night is the price to be cheerfully paid if he -desires, as an architectural enthusiast, to do his duty by Auxerre. - -[Illustration: THE BRIDGE AND CATHEDRAL, AUXERRE] - -Troyes, the ancient capital of Champagne, was formerly another “city of -counts”--the residence of a long line of Thibauts, almost as famed in -their day as the Fulks at Angers, and one of whom, called “le -Chansonnier,” might be compared to the minstrel King René. These counts -of Champagne kept up their state at Troyes until the fourteenth -century, when the countship became merged in the French crown. The city -likewise made of itself a landmark during the Hundred Years’ War. After -the battle of Agincourt it fell into the hands of the allied Burgundians -and English; and the name of Troyes now recalls the triumph, as brief as -it was splendid, of the English arms in France. By this time Henry V. -had set his foot upon the steps of the French throne, and the famous -treaty signed here in 1420 secured the succession to him and his heirs, -and, to complete the alliance, gave him the hand of the French princess, -Catherine, the betrothal taking place in the Cathedral, and the marriage -itself in the church of Saint Jean. Here is a contemporary account of -the proceedings by the chronicler Monstrelet: “At this period Henry, -King of England, accompanied by his two brothers, the Dukes of Clarence -and of Gloucester, the Earls of Huntington, Warwick, and Kyme, and many -of the great lords of England, with about sixteen hundred combatants, -the greater part of whom were archers, set out from Rouen, came to -Pontoise, and then to Saint Denis. He crossed the bridge at Charenton -and left part of his army to guard it, and thence advanced by Provins to -Troyes in Champagne. The Duke of Burgundy and several of the nobility, -to show him honour and respect, came out to meet him, and conducted him -to the hotel, where he was lodged with his princes, and his army was -quartered in the adjacent villages.... When all relating to the peace -had been concluded, King Henry, according to the custom of France, -affianced the Lady Catherine. On the morrow of Trinity Day the King of -England espoused her in the parish church near to which he was lodged; -great pomp and magnificence were displayed by him and his princes as if -he were at that moment king of all the world.” - -Ten years later, however, Joan of Arc captured the town on her march -through France, and put an end to the English dominion. In 1525 Troyes -was attacked by the Emperor Charles V., who burnt at least half the -town, with the result that many of the old churches had to be rebuilt, -and date therefore from the sixteenth century, with remains of earlier -work here and there. Soon after the fire the city was overswept by the -great wave of religious controversy which was to break over France in -the latter years of the century, and since most of the inhabitants -declared for the Huguenot cause, their fortunes and ultimate fate were -none of the happiest. In 1562 the whole Huguenot population was driven -out and compelled to fall back for safety upon the town of -Bar-sur-Seine; and another decade saw a repetition of the terrible day -of Saint Bartholomew, when the Romanists in Troyes followed the ghastly -example of their white-sleeved brothers in Paris, and massacred every -Huguenot prisoner within the walls. - -Historic interest at the present day divides the repute of Troyes with -something less romantic--the system of weights and measures which we -call “Troy weight,” and which remains as a memorial of the mercantile -fame of ancient Troyes. The fairs of Troyes date back to 1230, when -Count Thibaut IV. granted to his subjects a municipal charter, and laid -the foundations of a commercial repute which could vie with that of any -town in France. From this time onwards Troyes occupied an important -position in the commercial world, and became the resort of wealthy -merchants from Italy and weavers with bales of rich stuffs from -Flanders, to say nothing of the goldsmiths, silversmiths, and workers in -precious stones who must have brought Troy weight into fame. Neither the -Hundred Years’ War nor the wars of the League appear to have affected -the town’s commerce to any great extent, but the Revocation of the Edict -of Nantes, by forcing the Protestant population, which included the -majority of the ablest citizens, to emigrate, struck a blow at the -industry of Troyes from which it never recovered; and now-a-days both -population and commerce have fallen to a state so low that it might -almost be called one of decay, compared with the brilliant busy life of -the mediæval town. What a scene they must have afforded at fair-time, -these narrow-built streets and small close squares, narrower and closer -than ever we can picture them to-day, but alive with movement, laughter, -above all with colour--such colour as your sober work-a-day crowd can -never aspire to in these times! - -Picturesque and lively as a French market of to-day undoubtedly is, with -the red and green, russet and pearl-colour of its vegetables, the white -caps of its women, the gay blues and crimsons of the umbrellas guarding -the stalls, the laughter and chatter of the buyers, sellers, and idlers, -it has nothing to compare with the wonderful colour-mass and movement of -a mediæval crowd, above all in such a place as this, the fame of whose -fairs might well have attracted buyers from all parts of Europe. -Stately, bearded Italian merchants--men like Antonio of Venice with -argosies on every sea--in furred cap and gold chain, dark-faced, -keen-eyed Jews, young nobles, exquisite in silk and velvet, wandering -minstrels fantastically arrayed, dancing-girls like bright-hued -butterflies, all the good citizens of Troyes in their gayest holiday -attire, and the inevitable jester in his motley, skimming in and out -of the crowd, shaking his cap and bells in every face--the many-coloured -banners of the town guilds streaming in the breeze above their heads, -and the summer sunshine flooding the whole scene, giving added light to -every street-corner, added brilliancy to every hue. The Troyes of to-day -is a picturesque town enough, with many beautiful timber-framed houses; -but the light and life of the town went out with the departure of the -fairs, and beyond its churches Troyes now has little to distinguish it -from the hundreds of quondam-mediæval towns scattered through the length -and breadth of France. - -[Illustration: A STREET IN TROYES] - -On our architectural pilgrimage through the town the Cathedral naturally -claimed our first attention; but we had not got much further than -admiration of the splendour of the stained glass, and a short analysis -of the beauty of the interior, when a remorseless sacristan informed us -that the Cathedral was about to close for two hours. Driven outside, the -contemplation of the splendid Flamboyant west portal reminded us of what -we have referred to elsewhere--that these deep-set porches in the French -cathedrals are considered as lineal descendants of the ancient narthex. -Troyes, Lâon, Bourges and many other churches lead one to an attempt to -follow out the evolution of these great porches. In the ancient -basilican churches the narthex was the first section of the building--an -ante-temple, long and narrow, in front of the nave. In the primitive -Church it was especially allotted to the monks and the women, and used -for certain offices, such as rogations, supplications, and night -watches; it was further destined as a place for catechumens and -penitents, who were permitted to assist at Divine Service outside the -Temple. Heretics and schismatics might also here attend and listen to -the reading of the Scriptures, this privilege being accorded them in the -hope of their ultimate conversion; and corpses were placed in the -narthex during the performance of the funeral rites. In the Middle Ages -the denomination narthex was given to closed porches of churches, and -ceased to be any longer applicable to a portion of a religious edifice -lying within the walls. It was ultimately replaced by the word _porch_. -These porches were both open and closed and formed a kind of vestibule. - -The baptism of children and not of adults rendered it unnecessary to -provide for the preparation of converts before being introduced into the -Church. There were no more catechumens undergoing their time of -probation, and in consequence the spacious vestibule to which they had -hitherto been relegated disappeared as an essential portion of a large -church, and was replaced by a porch which was either open or closed, -and occupied a position in front of the nave similar to that in which -its predecessor, the narthex, had stood. These porches being reserved -for the faithful remained, _qua_ porches, as very important annexes to -the churches, and formed large vestibules, often closed, which ran along -the outside of the western wall of a church, having sometimes the -appearance of a cloister, as at Toury, which was built in 1230. - -Under the porches before the main entrances of many ancient cathedrals -bishops, emperors and honoured citizens were often buried, as the -ecclesiastical law in the primitive Church did not allow people to be -buried inside the walls of the sacred building. Many important services -were held under these porches; prayers for the dead were offered up, -ablutions performed by the faithful before entering the church, relics -and images were exposed, and litanies chanted. Later it became -absolutely necessary to keep them strictly closed on account of the -abuse of the shelter of the porch by the erection of market stalls and -booths on fair-days under the shadow of the church, and the crowd of -buyers and sellers making the air ring with their noisy bargainings. - -A further development was to make the porch a kind of arcaded -_avant-porte_ surmounted by a gable with sculptured features. These -decorated canopies were by degrees thrown back into the main wall, -became merged into the mouldings of the doorway, and were finally lost -as a separate feature in the highly ornamented and deeply splayed -portal. - -Fortunately the ecclesiastical interest of Troyes is not confined to one -corner, and the churches of Saint Urbain and the Madeleine lie in one’s -path to the market-place along the very picturesque streets of -sixteenth-and seventeenth-century houses, which offer every conceivable -variation of roof and gable. - -The beautiful details of the unfinished church of Saint Urbain may well -have won for itself the reputation of equalling if not of surpassing -anything of its kind either in France or Germany; and although it is -still in the hands of the restorer, there is now no scaffolding to -prevent one looking in admiration at the graceful choir and transepts. -The detached _pignons_ above the chancel window spring from the -buttresses clear of the wall, and throw a deep shadow over the upper -portion of the windows. This shadow gives an appearance of weight and -stability to the building, which is certainly required as an assurance -against the result of too daring construction. - -In the Madeleine, which is not far from Saint Urbain, is a notable -rood-screen, full of luxuriant tracery and sculpture of a late -Flamboyant period. It attracts attention, not because it fulfils any -ceremonial requirements or forms any part of an architectural effect in -the interior of the church, but rather on account of its singular -appearance of being slung between two pillars. - - - - -Chapter Seventeen - -MEAUX, SENLIS, AND BEAUVAIS - - -Meaux is a beautifully situated little town on the banks of the Marne -some thirty miles from Paris, on the way to the Champagne country. Its -general appearance can best be gathered from the delightful public -promenade along the river-side which is entered immediately on the right -of the station. The Cathedral dates back to the early thirteenth -century, but very shortly after it was finished, either owing to the -work of construction being hurried or to the foundations being insecure, -large cracks and actual shifting of the masonry declared themselves, and -a great deal of remodelling and alterations became necessary. The -vaulting and first stage of the choir aisles--or triforium -ambulatory--were removed, the aisles being thereby doubled in height. -The choir elevation is a very beautiful expression of thirteenth-century -design. The transept is short, and has a large rose window and a -richly-decorated portal. - -It is said that at one time, namely in the thirteenth century, -architects conceived the idea of covering the walls on the inside of the -porch with some vast design of decoration, by which the colour poured -into the church through the large rose-window should be enhanced by -great spaces of painted wall-surface. This conception, however, was very -short-lived, and towards the end of the century painted subjects were -confined almost entirely to the windows; and the internal decoration of -the _revers_ of the porches was conceived, as at Meaux, more in an -architectural spirit with pilasters, arcading, etc., as motives, rather -than with features suggested by the painter’s art. - -Meaux as well as Lâon, Soissons, Beauvais, Noyon and other towns in the -district felt the effects of the Jacquerie revolts in the thirteenth -century. Indeed, many of the ladies who suffered from the horrors of the -persecution at Beauvais fled at first to Meaux to escape the fury of the -rebels; and once having got within the town, they did not dare to leave -it, so that to all intents and purposes they were prisoners within its -walls. Throughout the whole district bands of robbers and furious -peasants infested the roads or lay in ambush to catch the unwary, and it -was thus very dangerous to go from one town to another, even under an -armed escort. Hearing of the plight of these ladies in Meaux, among -whom were the Duchesses of Orléans and Normandy, the Earl of Foix and -the Captal de Buch resolved to go to their aid, and set out forthwith -from Châlons, to find a great host of the peasantry also bound for the -same place. The rebels had heard that Meaux was chiefly inhabited by -refugee women and children, also that it contained a great deal of -treasure; and they were now flocking down every road, from Valois, from -Beauvoisie and from Paris, towards the little town upon the Marne. Foix -and his company were received with the utmost joy, for the peasants had -already begun to fill the streets and to do what damage they could, and -the ladies were naturally in great alarm. “But when these banditti -perceived such a troop of gentlemen, so well equipped, sally forth to -guard the market-place, the foremost of them began to fall back. The -gentlemen then followed them, using their lances and swords. When they -felt the weight of their blows, they, through fear, turned about so -fast, they fell one over the other. All manner of armed persons then -rushed out of the barriers, drove them before them, striking them down -like beasts, and clearing the town of them, for they kept neither -regularity nor order, slaying so many that they were tired. They flung -them in great heaps into the river. In short, they killed upwards of -seven thousand. Not one would have escaped if they had chosen to pursue -them further.” - -[Illustration: MEAUX] - -Another siege famous in the annals of Meaux is that during the wars of -Henry V., when the English king encamped before the town in October, -1421, and set engines to batter down the gates and walls, having -entrenched his own army meanwhile in a strong position between hedges -and ditches. “The King of England,” Monstrelet tells us, “was -indefatigable in the siege of Meaux, and having destroyed many parts of -the walls of the market-place, he summoned the garrison to surrender -themselves to the King of France and himself, or he would storm the -place. To this summons they replied that it was not yet time to -surrender, on which the King ordered the place to be stormed. The -assault continued for seven or eight hours in the most bloody manner; -nevertheless, the besieged made an obstinate defence, in spite of the -great numbers that were attacking them. Their lances had been almost all -broken, but in their stead they made use of spits, and fought with such -courage that the English were driven back from the ditches, which -encouraged them much.” This state of affairs lasted for six months; the -garrison of Meaux, who seem to have behaved all through with the utmost -gallantry, were in hopes of relief from the Dauphin, but at the end of -April, finding further resistance impossible, they gave themselves up -into the hands of Henry. A treaty was set on foot whereby, “on the 11th -day of May, the market-place and all Meaux were to be surrendered into -the hands of the kings of France and England.” The leaders were made -prisoners of war, and the chief offender, the bastard of Vaurus, who -“had in his time hung many a Burgundian and Englishman,” was beheaded -and hung as a warning on a tree outside the walls of the town. King -Henry himself--adds the French chronicler--“was very proud of this -victory, and entered the place in great pomp, and remained there some -days with his princes to repose and solace himself, having given orders -for the complete reparation of the walls that had been so much damaged -by artillery at the siege.” - -Meaux is of course notably associated with Bossuet, the famous preacher, -who was appointed to its bishopric in 1681. The study and garden where -he wrote many of his sermons are still shown among his other memorials -in the Évêché, near the Cathedral. - -[Illustration: THE OLD MILLS AT MEAUX] - -“Dans les choses nécessaire, l’unité; dans les douteuses, la liberté; -dans tous les cas, la charité.” In these few words one may look for the -keynote of Bossuet’s whole life. Temperate in all things, yet possessed -with an eloquence more moving, it was said, than that of any man since -the days of the Christian Fathers, and employed always in the cause -of the Church he loved so well, the “Aigle de Meaux” well deserves his -place among the greatest ecclesiastics France has ever known, and -France, just at this time, was rich in ecclesiastical genius. There was -Fénélon at Cambrai and Mascaron at Tulle, there were Massillon and -Bourdaloue, Arnauld and Fleury--all of them men of note, both in the -pulpit and in the world of books; but Bossuet stands out before them -all. - -He made an early entrance into the cultivated world, preaching his first -sermon, upon a subject chosen at random, in the salon of the Hôtel -Rambouillet, when hardly out of his teens; and the Marquis de -Feuquières, who had introduced him into this society of Précieuses, soon -found reason to be proud of his protégé. The young man was destined to -go on as he had begun; a few more years saw him established as Canon of -Metz, the close friend of Condé and of the Calvinist Paul Ferri, with -whom he never tired of disputing theological questions in a perfectly -amicable spirit, acting up to his maxim of “liberty in doubtful things”; -and finally his reputation brought him to Paris, where he preached -during Lent, 1656, and brought before the world the sermon as he created -it, purified from the profanities of an immoral age, strengthened by his -steadfast simplicity, and quickened by the fire of his eloquence. -Bossuet found that in spite of himself his fame as an orator--a fame -after which he had never striven--was firmly established in the capital, -and after he had preached before the king in the chapel of the Louvre -his success was practically assured. Honours and dignities came fast -upon him; he became Bishop of Condom, and in the following year (1670) -was entrusted with the education of the Dauphin, while the Académie -Française opened its doors to his genius, and in 1681 he was appointed -to the See of Meaux. Hardly had Bossuet settled down, however, in the -quiet little _évêché_, with its pleasant green garden, than he was -called out again into the world of noise and controversy. In 1682 Louis -XIV. convoked the famous assembly of clergy to discuss the breach which -had lately disclosed itself between the State of France and the Papacy. -The king contended for the right of patronage over any vacant sees or -benefices, claiming that so long as they remained unoccupied, their -revenues fell due to the Crown; and called together the clergy of the -realm to uphold his right and to draw up a code of rules that should set -a line between spiritual and temporal authority. Bossuet preached the -sermon which was to open the Convocation; and his clear practical sense -and eloquent denunciation of the encroachments of the Papacy destroyed -the remnants of Pope Innocent’s power in France. He summed up the case -in four clauses. First, “That the Pope has no temporal power over -kings”; secondly, “That his spiritual authority is inferior to that of a -general assembly”; thirdly, “That, in consequence, the use of this -authority ought to be regulated by the canons of the Church and by -customs generally approved”; and last, “That the papal decision on -matters of faith is only infallible by consent of the Church.” Thus did -Bossuet establish the privileges and the liberty of the Gallican Church. - -As soon as possible the great bishop disengaged himself from the affairs -of the nation, and was occupied, not in gaining fresh honours, but with -the care of his diocese. The picture of his last years is a graceful and -pleasant one, and shows the great man leading the life of a simple -country priest; writing sermons in his study or garden, directing his -convents, schools and hospitals, visiting his poor and sick people, even -catechising the children of Meaux; and at times retiring into the -seclusion of the monastery of La Trappe, to gather strength and courage -for the better fulfilment of his pastoral duties. - -The old timber water-mills behind the Town Hall are the outward sign of -one of the great industries of Meaux. They have withstood for many -generations the rushing torrents of the Marne, which threaten to -undermine the starlings and timbers of the mills and to engulf them in -its waters. These for some reason or other are almost as green as the -outpourings of the Rhone at Geneva. It would be interesting to know if -Meaux possessed any feudal right over the neighbouring peasants, -compelling them to come and wait their turn at the mill, and pay -whatever price might be demanded, and forbidding them, even in times of -heavy yield, to get their corn ground elsewhere. Such oppressions -actually existed in the villages attached to the great châteaux, where -the seigneur had a right to keep huge rabbit-warrens and pigeon-houses, -whose inhabitants devastated, year in, year out, the surrounding crops -of the peasants. - -The little city of Senlis, with its girdle of Roman walls and watch -towers, is one of the most attractive places within reach of Paris. It -is situated about thirty-five miles to the northeast, in the midst of -the great forest land of Hallatte and Chantilly. Until the dissolution -of the Carlovingian empire Senlis enjoyed the privileges of a royal -residence, and, indeed, down to the time of Henri de Navarre the kings -of France continued to visit the city, and were lodged in a castle built -on the site of the Roman prætorium. The ruins of this castle, some of -which date from the eleventh century, may still be seen among the -attractions of Senlis; and of even greater interest are the Roman -ramparts which surround the town and which were built when it still held -its position as the township of the Silvanectes. These walls, -“twenty-three feet high and thirteen feet thick, are, with those of St. -Lizier (Ariège) and Bourges, the most perfect in France. They enclosed -an oval area 1024 feet long from east to west and 794 feet wide from -north to south. At each of the angles formed by the broken lines of -which the circuit of 2756 feet is composed, stands or stood a tower; -numbering originally twenty-eight and now only sixteen, they are -semicircular in plan, and up to the height of the wall are unpierced. -The Roman city had only two gates; the present number is five.” - -As one approaches the town from the station through the boulevard, the -Renaissance tower of Saint Pierre and the beautiful _flèche_ of the -Cathedral stand right ahead. The first of these two churches is now -desecrated and converted into a large market hall, having previously -been used as cavalry barracks. It is short and broad, having only three -bays to the nave, two to the choir, and an apse of three lights; but it -has one very marked feature, which is also seen, though to a lesser -extent, in the Cathedral of Saint Gatien at Tours--the axis of the choir -trends northwards, making with the nave an angle of some seventeen to -twenty degrees. There is a certain amount of early Gothic work worth -notice, but the prevailing style is Flamboyant; in the two last side -chapels of the choir some curious vaulting is to be found, resembling -rude attempts at fan tracery with heavy keyed pendants. - -The Cathedral of Notre-Dame covers during its construction a period of -some four hundred years, and is probably only part of what was -originally designed. The glory of the building is the beautiful spire to -the south-west tower. Rising from a base octagonal in plan, the angles -are lightened by detached pillars supporting a pyramidal canopy; the -upper dormer windows are high and lancet-shaped, with the back of their -gables sloping downwards and forming a sharp angle with the richly -crocketed spire. Internally the church is a mixed product of the -Transition and Flamboyant architects; the large clerestory windows may -have been rebuilt later when the vaulting was constructed. In the -ambulatory behind the altar the twelfth-century capitals remain, showing -archaic Romanesque sculpture; and traces of this early work are to be -found in many other parts of the building. The large west door is of the -Chartres type; in the tympanum are the figures of our Lord and the -Virgin Mary, with a representation of the resurrection of the dead; some -of the figures are flying upwards, while others are being tenderly -awakened by angels swinging censers. - -[Illustration: SENLIS] - -Long before the train arrives at Beauvais the Cathedral is seen like a -huge fortress in the distance, overtopping the quiet, modest landscape -of the Thérain valley; and its great size is more acutely felt as one -approaches its south doorway along the streets of little white-painted -houses and shop-fronts. The immediate effect of the interior of this -marvellous building is startling. Whatever emotion has been aroused in -the architectural traveller by the glories of Amiens, Chartres, or -Bourges, is for the moment entirely eclipsed by the first view of the -choir of Beauvais, whose clerestory windows soar upwards with such a -restless vitality as almost to pierce the vaulting. These choir bays -look like shafts of masonry so elongated, so delicate, that one trembles -for their stability. And this sensation gradually increases. The sense -of strength and repose gives way to a feeling that this great “church in -the air” is struggling against dissolution, and that its vast flying -buttresses are only just sufficient to withstand the tremendous strain -that is constantly being exerted on the building. It is only fair, -however, to the architect of Beauvais choir to say that he was hampered -by the want of means and probably also by the insufficient site assigned -to him for the planning out of his Cathedral. Had he worked under more -favourable conditions he would have accomplished “an incomparable work,” -for it is not, as Viollet-le-Duc remarks, “the theory” that was fatal to -its construction, but the execution, which is poor and mediocre. The -lesson learnt from the Beauvais architect’s temerity on the one hand, -and from his beautiful disposition of plan on the other, was of the -greatest value to the designers of other Cathedrals executed at the same -time--notably that of Cologne, which was constructed more or less -contemporaneously with Beauvais. - -West of the Cathedral is the _Basse Œuvre_, a building which -Fergusson describes as an example of the Latin style, and a -stepping-stone from the Roman basilica to the Gothic church. This -intermediate style is noticeable in the Romanesque church of S. Vicenzo -alle Fontane in Rome, where the bay is divided simply into pier arch and -clerestory, showing in very simple terms an arrangement nearly -approaching to Gothic. - -Of the history of Beauvais there is but little to be said, for it -possesses none worthy of the name, or rather--since every town must have -a story of some kind--none which associates itself to any great degree -with outside events. It was established in the Roman era as the capital -of the Bellovaci, under the name of Cæsaromagus; it was Christianised -by Saint Lucian, who for his good works suffered martyrdom within the -town; and later on it became the head of a countship. This dignity, -however, Beauvais did not long retain, for in the tenth century the -temporal power of the count was vested in the spiritual power of the -bishop, and any celebrity which the town may have attained was -henceforth of purely ecclesiastical order. - -It did, however, play a prominent part in the peasant revolt known as -the “Jacquerie” in the fourteenth century. A body of peasants, “without -any leader,” says Froissart, rose up with the intent to exterminate the -upper classes--a forerunner of the Revolution--and perpetrated the most -horrible atrocities upon every knight and noble they could lay hands on -in Beauvais. “They said that the nobles of the kingdom of France, -knights and squires, were a disgrace to it, and that it would be a very -meritorious act to destroy them all; to which proposition every one -assented as a truth, and added, shame befall him who should be the means -of preventing the gentlemen from being wholly destroyed.” - -When the revolt grew, instead of being crushed, the “gentlemen of -Beauvoisie” were forced to send for help out of France, since matters -were come to such a pass that “in the bishoprics of Noyon, Lâon and -Soissons, there were upwards of one hundred castles and good houses of -knights and squires destroyed.” Aid soon came, notably from Flanders, -Hainault and Navarre, the king of Navarre especially signalising himself -by putting three thousand rebels to death in one day. “When they were -asked,” says the chronicler, “for what reason they acted so wickedly, -they replied they knew not, but they did so because they saw others do -it; and they thought that by this means they should destroy all the -nobles and gentlemen in the world.” - -Edward III. besieged Beauvais in 1346, but without success, and it only -fell into English hands in 1420 through the treachery of Bishop Pierre -Cauchon, whose name also appears as one of the witnesses against Joan of -Arc at Rouen eleven years later. The memory of this latter offence so -preyed upon his mind that when he became bishop of Lisieux--having -presumably been ejected from the see of Beauvais--Couchon sought to -expiate his sin by dedicating a chapel to the Virgin in the Cathedral of -Saint Pierre. - -Hearing of the siege of Compiègne by the Burgundian forces, Joan had -left Charles’s army, which was still dawdling by the Loire in a state of -inaction, and marched off to Compiègne to relieve his party there. -Arrived without the town, she soon headed a sortie against the -Burgundians; they were driven back, and it is probable that the -expedition would have been attended by the success which, to do her -justice, had up to this moment crowned the efforts of the Maid, had not -a body of Englishmen come up unexpectedly between her and the town and -driven her into a corner. She was of course speedily captured. As soon -as the news reached Paris both the University and the Vicar of the -Inquisition demanded her person. Cauchon, however, stood firm. The Maid, -he contended, had been captured within the diocese of Beauvais, and he, -as the foremost prelate of the English party, claimed the right of -putting her on trial; and after having paid to Burgundy 10,000 livres -for this right, sent the Maid to Rouen, there to stand on her trial for -sorcery, before a court of which Cauchon was president; and this fact -alone might reasonably destroy all hope for poor Joan. - -Another fourteenth-century bishop of Beauvais brought his diocese before -the world in no small degree. Jean de Dormans was not only bishop; he -became Chancellor of France, and obtained from Rome the rank of a -cardinal, under the title of the Four Crowned Saints. In Paris Dormans -endowed a foundation which still bears the name of Collège de Beauvais, -though what remains of the building serves as barracks, and the light of -learning has left its precincts for ever. The old college is now united -to its neighbour, the Collège de Presle; but the fourteenth-century -chapel dedicated to Saint John the Evangelist still stands almost -intact, though it, too, has been desecrated, and now serves the use of -the military occupiers. Formerly there stood within this chapel six -life-size figures, representing three men and three women of the Dormans -family, and it is believed that when mediæval fragments were pieced -together to form the chapel of Abélard and Héloise, which is now part of -the burial-ground of Père-la-Chaise, the figure of one of these ladies -of the fourteenth century was used to represent that of Héloise. - -One name there is on the page of their history which the inhabitants of -this town remember with a veneration almost equal to that which the -Orléannais regard Joan of Arc, and whose memory even now receives an -annual tribute. It is that of another Jeanne, poor and obscure, who rose -to heroism in the moment of her city’s danger, and who, though she did -not lead a mighty host to victory nor bring a monarch back to his own, -yet saved her city from the encroachments of Burgundy, and gave the -women of Beauvais a right to their country’s esteem. The besieging army -of Charles the Bold probably never received such a surprise as on that -day in the year of grace 1472, when Jeanne Hachette led her -_concitoyennes_ through the streets of Beauvais, menaced the foe from -the ramparts, and actually bore away with her own hands one of the -Burgundian standards. The banner is still kept in the Hôtel-de-Ville; -and every year, on the feast of Ste. Angadrème, a grand procession -marches through the streets, in which the women are given the right of -precedence over the men, in memory of the brave deeds of Jeanne and her -sisters. - - - - -Chapter Eighteen - -PARIS AND SOME OF ITS CHURCHES - - -As a Cathedral city, Paris hardly comes within the scheme of this book. -It has been written about so much and so often, and occupies, both -architecturally and historically, such a position as would scarcely -justify any but a full and detailed description. This great city, the -living, moving source of one of the greatest nations of to-day, and at -one time the mainspring of Europe itself, is not to be passed over with -a few terse remarks; it is as though one tried to compress the history -of France itself into a single chapter. On the one hand, a short sketch -can hardly hope to do justice to Paris; on the other, to describe it at -such length as it deserves would not be dealing fairly by the lesser -towns, and further, this length would be so great as to render absurd -its inclusion in a book of traveller’s notes. Rather let it be regarded -here in the light of _point d’appui_ from which other places may be -visited which do not lie on the direct route from Paris to the -provinces. Without attempting any architectural description, however, it -may be as well, before we pass outside the city walls, to mention three -churches within Paris of which illustrations are given here, and to -offer the briefest possible outline of their early history and -foundation, as well as that of the great city of which they form a part. - -“Paris did not, like London, simply grow into the capital of a kingdom -already existing. The city created first the county and then the -kingdom, of which it was successively the head.” In those days Paris -ranked no higher than Soissons, Sens, Lâon, Orléans, or Rouen; and in -ecclesiastical dignity it was inferior to some of them, being, it is -true, an episcopal see, but not a metropolitan. Certainly, as we have -seen, it was approved as a military station by Cæsar, and beloved as a -residence by Julian; and the great position the city now holds in modern -Europe and the modern world is rather apt to bias our estimate of these -early honours, which were undoubtedly shared by many other of the Gallic -cities. Because Paris is now a metropolitan see, the centre of political -and social France, we have a tendency to think that in all times the -city must have ruled her neighbour towns in this way; whereas it was -only by very slow degrees--long after it had become the seat of royalty -and the nominal capital of France--that Paris acquired an influence -beyond the bounds of her own territories. The great lords of Burgundy, -of Aquitaine, of Anjou, of Champagne--they were vassals to the king, -they paid him homage, they gave him their military service, but they and -their domains formed no part of France; they were almost as separate -from any head or centre as were the wide-scattered Teutonic states east -of the Rhine. Nor was this felt to be in any way a disadvantage; the -kings in Paris would doubtless have welcomed the firm allegiance of -these kings in all but name, because it would have meant a fresh access -of power, an added strength wherewith to face their other foes; but no -idea of national unity had any place in their calculation. Paris had -made for herself a dominion, and the time was to come when that dominion -should stretch from the sea on the north, south and west, to the river -and to the mountains on the east; but as yet that time had not arrived. - -[Illustration: THE PONT MARIE, PARIS] - -One more event which took place after Paris became the capital of France -may be recorded here. This is the attempted siege in the days of Joan of -Arc, which followed as the sequel to the king’s coronation at Rheims. -Having subdued so many cities in the north of France, and given to -Charles VII. the crown of his ancestors, it was but natural that Joan -should be anxious to lead him in triumph into his capital, which at -present declared for the enemy, and was occupied by Cardinal Beaufort’s -English troops and the army of Burgundy. The newly-crowned king, -however, apparently considered that he had borne his share of the burden -in the late proceedings at Rheims, and seemed in no hurry to march upon -Paris. Riding through the smaller towns, seeing their gates flung open -wide to him, and receiving the homage and acclamations of the people, -were occupations far more congenial to his indolent tastes than -bestirring himself to take the field again; and to their infinite -annoyance Joan and d’Alençon perceived that he was gradually but surely -working his way down to his castles on the Loire, from whose pleasant -meadows they knew well that he would never return. The only wonder is -that the Maid did not lose all patience and leave this dilatory prince -to his fate. Instead of this she set out with the Duc d’Alençon to Saint -Denis, leaving Charles at Compiègne, whence he followed them, “very sore -against his will,” as far as Senlis. Meanwhile each day of delay gave -the English time to strengthen their position within the capital; and -Joan found that having brought the king to Senlis was by no means the -same thing as conquering his unwillingness to strike what she and her -party believed might be, if rightly directed, the final blow. Each time -the Maid and d’Alençon set out to invest Paris, messages came from the -royal camp, commanding them to desist and return to Saint Denis. Finally -the truth came out; the king cared more for peace and ease on the Loire -than for glory in war, and desired to leave the camp. Had Joan believed -less firmly in the divine right of kings, it is probable that she would -have rebelled and besieged Paris on her own responsibility; on the other -hand, had Charles been left to the counsels of d’Alençon and the brave -captains Dunois and La Hire, there is reason to suppose that he might -have been persuaded to follow where Joan led, and might under her -guidance have subdued Paris in a very short time. But there were the -king’s favourites to reckon with, and these were not men of war, but of -peace, and not always of peace with honour--the foolish La Tremouille -and the crafty Archbishop of Rheims, one of Joan’s worst opposers--and -these advisers easily worked upon the king’s indolent good-nature to -find in the eagerness of the Maid an undue desire for fresh conquest. As -it was, Joan saw nothing before her but to obey the man to whom, as she -believed, God had given the right to go or stay, to fight or to lie in -peace, as his Majesty chose. She went to the statue of the Virgin at -Saint Denis, bearing her armour; and there, kneeling in the church, she -dedicated to Our Lady of Victories the helmet, hauberk and coat of mail -in which she had done so many great feats of arms; and then rose and -followed her king on his journey to the pleasant lands of the Loire. - -The early history of Paris lies buried in the unrecorded pages of the -life of primæval man. Its origin is humble in comparison with that of -other capitals, although it bears a strong analogy to those surrounding -physical conditions to which Venice owed its existence. Its cradle, -according to M. Hoffbauer, _Paris à traverse les ages_, was a small -narrow island in the middle of the young Seine, which had then cut for -itself its channel through the alluvial plains which had been left by -the retiring sea towards the end of the Geological Tertiary period at -the close of the glacial epoch. It was part of a group of five islands, -of which three very soon disappeared, their soil being probably used -either for embankments or for purposes of defence. As in the great -estuary leading up to the morass surrounding London, many changes had -been wrought by the hand of man in the general appearance of the Paris -basin. It is true that the great embankments constructed by the Romans -to keep the waters of the Thames within defined limits are not to be -traced in the valley of the Seine, yet the rude habitations of wattle -huts built on whatever hillocks were attainable entailed embankments to -a certain extent which should keep the Seine within its bounds at times -of extraordinary flood. As it stands to-day Paris is in one of the most -fertile parts of the territory; it is on the banks of a great river -which brings to it by its main stream and by its affluents the tribute -of the richest provinces; it is surrounded by materials most necessary -for the construction of its public and private edifices; and it is -endowed by nature with all the fruitful resources tending towards the -aggrandisement both of power and fortune. - -The condition of the early inhabitants of the Paris basin was that of -one continual warfare against the denizens of the jungle, which with its -rich and abundant vegetation covered the surrounding country. Caverns -and other places chosen for their abodes were disputed with lions, -hyenas and tigers. The chase was their only means of subsistence (the -art of husbandry being entirely unknown), and the number of stone -hatchets and harpoons, fishing-hooks, lances, &c., found deeply buried -in the alluvial soil, bear testimony to the struggle for existence -amongst the early inhabitants of the Seine valley. - -Cæsar, when he was appointed commander of the Gauls in B.C. 59, found -their central point of Paris inhabited by a Cymric or Celtic population, -which he calls Gauls in his language but Celts in their own, and -separated from the Belgæ by the Seine and Marne. Cæsar wrote the place -“Lutetia,” and when he convoked the inhabitants of Gaul to this town the -neighbouring tribe was designated as “Parisii,” and allied to the -powerful clan of the Senones. - -With reference to the meaning of the word “Parisii,” M. Bulet, in the -“Dictionnaire Celtique,” says that “bar” or “par” means in Celtic a boat -(_bateau_), and that the low Bretons call the cargo of a boat “far.” -Herodotus (book ii., 96), in his description of the method of floating -boats down stream on the Nile by means of a raft fastened on in front -with a stone dragging behind, calls the boat “baris,” and says that some -of them are many thousand talents burthen. They were probably -flat-bottomed, and similar to those now seen on the rivers. The Celtic -word “par,” signifying a boat, might well have produced the name -Parisii, meaning boatmen, men who passed all their life in the “baris.” - -The most ancient emblem of Lutetia which has been preserved from -antiquity is that of the prow of a boat which one sees sculptured on the -springing of the vault of the Roman palace of the Thermes, built on the -left bank of the Seine; the powerful association of the Nautæ Parisiaci, -which is found at the head of the Parisian Navigation represented by the -prow of a boat, has therefore a direct Celtic or Gallic origin. Living -only in rude cabins the early inhabitants naturally possessed no public -building. Cæsar therefore conceived the idea of convoking the Gaulish -chiefs into one central place or forum, and ordered to be built a -“Suggestum,” a tribune from which he could harangue the assembled -headmen. This is considered by some French architects as the earliest -indication of their _édilité naissánte_. As further evidence of their -building and engineering capability, the inhabitants of Lutetia threw -out bridges to join their island to the main banks of the river. Cæsar -frequently refers to the bridges built by the Gauls, such as the one at -Melun, on the Seine, another across the Allier, near Vichy, of which -ancient foundations and piers have been found, another at Orléans, and -of such slender construction as to have especially attracted his -attention, and, finally, the bridge of Lutetia across the main arm of -the Seine, the predecessor of the present Pont Notre Dame, which has -also left traces of its ancient piers. - -In Rome the Nautæ Tiberis were a corporation who enjoyed the privilege -of carrying corn and other produce from Ostia to the capital; similar -associations existed in Gaul in addition to the Nautæ Parisiaci, and on -a wall of the amphitheatre of Nîmes is an inscription in which as many -as forty places are mentioned where corporations enjoying the same -privileges and immunities existed. No wonder the territory of the -Parisii increased in commercial activity. Watered by the Seine, the -Marne and the Oise, its trade routes by land and by water were fully -organised and guarded by powerful associations which existed almost -before the Roman Conquest, and attracted the attention of the writer -Strabo. It soon developed under such advantages into a prosperous and -enlightened city. Roman buildings took the place of the Gallic huts, -Roman laws governed the city, Roman customs and manners prevailed -amongst the inhabitants, and by the time the first messengers of -Christianity had penetrated into Gaul Lutetia had become a city not of -the Gauls, but of the Romans. Curiously enough it was from Rome also -that these early messengers came, to preach their doctrine to a Roman -city. The pioneers were Saint Denis, generally confounded, for the sake -of the antiquity of the Gallican Church, with the convert of Saint Paul, -Dionysius the Areopagite, and two companions, Eleutherius and Rusticus; -and their work was carried on by Martin of Tours, one of the bravest -soldiers of the Emperor Julian, who left the army to preach the faith in -Gaul, and to stamp out the cult of the old pagan gods. Speaking of -Julian, moreover, may serve to remind us that it was at Paris that he -was first proclaimed emperor; here was his palace before his imperial -honours came upon him, and here, he declares in his own writings, were -spent the three happiest winters of his life, showing that even in these -early times Lutetia was a fair and pleasant city, as it is to-day. - -In the following centuries Gaul was overrun with tribes from the east, -Goths and Visigoths, Alemnanni and Huns, Burgundians and Franks. The -last-named broke down the Roman defences all over the land and seized -upon Paris. A new era now began for the city. Under Clovis, the first -Frank king, it became the official capital of the State in 508, and from -this time forward takes its place as one of the great cities of France. -After the conversion of Clovis, abbeys and churches were built, great -bishops and great saints preached and wrote their message, and indeed -the ecclesiastical fabric of the city seems to have grown up more -quickly than the civil fabric, until the time of Charlemagne, when -craftsmen’s guilds were established, Jewish capitalists admitted within -the walls, and a mercantile reputation founded. Then a second time the -work of the conquerors seemed to be undone. The Northmen, more terrible -invaders than Goths or Franks, plundered the coast-lands and presently -swept up the Seine past Rouen to Paris, where they worked such havoc as -the town had never before known. The streets were set in flames, the -monasteries were sacked and burnt, the priests and monks were massacred -without mercy; yet all this evil was to end in better things. The very -persistency of the Normans in besieging and pillaging a town four and -five times, argued that the town itself must be worth the trouble, and -the “lords” of Paris speedily began to look to its safety. Weak, foolish -Charles the Fat could devise no better plan than the cowardly one of -bribing the invaders to retreat; but Eudes, Count of Paris, knew that -this would only be an inducement to them to come again, and determined -once and for all to rid his city, at least, of this scourge. This he did -with such effect that the crown of France was given to him and the -inefficient Charles deposed. It was his nephew, Hugh the Great, who -ruled at Paris in Rolf’s day, and waged constant war with Neustria and -Charles the Simple, the last of the Carlovingian kings, on the -hill-crest at Lâon. Then, at the end of the tenth century, began the -feudal monarchy under the Capetian dynasty. The first of the line was -the eldest son of Hugh the Great, and the connections which he brought -with him promised well for the prestige of his new kingdom. On the one -side, he was brother-in-law to the Norman Duke, Richard the Fearless; on -the other, his own brother Odo was Duke of Burgundy; in his own right -he was lord of Picardy, of Maine, of Chartres, of Tours, of Blois, and -of Orléans; and his bond with the Church was further strengthened by the -fact that he held the lay abbacies of Saint Martin, near Tours, and -Saint Denis, near Paris. Thus the kingdom with which Hugh Capet began -his reign was a fairly compact strip of land, having as boundaries -Flanders to the north, Aquitaine to the south, Champagne to the east, -and Normandy to the west. Of this kingdom Paris was nearly the actual -geographical centre, and soon became the political centre also. - -The early importance of Paris in the tenth century is very different to -that of London. Paris at this time was a military position of growing -importance, both from its central situation and its place on the island -in the Seine. London on her Thames had an almost similar position, but -she derived her power not merely from her Teutonic conquerors, but also -from her early connection with Roman and Celtic Britain; while as a -military stronghold she was no less to be desired. - -The eastern point of the city, where the only bridge then existed, -traversing the Seine in the exact place where now stands the Pont Notre -Dame, a point where the roads through the province converged, was -already a place sacred to the Gauls. Here were performed rites and -sacrifices to their mysterious divinities in an underground church which -existed in the third century. Probably the tradition of dark deeds of -persecution of the early Christians, human sacrifices, and missionaries -suffering death in the cages of lions which were kept for the purpose of -exhibitions, prevented the Parisian boatmen, when they heard of the -wonderful tidings of Galilee, from using this Gaulish building, so full -of terrible reminiscences, as their first church. The site of the Temple -of Jupiter was chosen for the establishment of a church which should -stamp out the heathen religion, crush with its heel the serpent’s head -and build upon its ruins a temple of the Holy Cross. About 375, on the -site of the Temple of Jupiter, was built a church dedicated to Saint -Etienne, which may be considered as the first Cathedral of Paris. - -To the splendour of this early basilica, built by Childebert in the -early Latin style, with its marble columns, some of which are now in the -Musée de Cluny, the monk Fortunatus bears witness, and his description -of the edifice is thus given in M. Hoffbauer’s book on Paris: “Le -vaisseau de cette église repose sur des colonnes de marbre, et le soin -avec lequel on l’entretient en augment la beauté. Le premier il fut -éclairé de fenêtres ornées de verres transparents par lesquels on reçoit -la lumière. On dirait que la main d’un ouvrier habile a emprisonné le -jour dans le sanctuaire. Les feux tremblants de l’aurore naissante -semblant se jouer jusque dans les lambris, et le temple est éclairé par -la charté du jour même, quand le soliel ne se montre pas. Le roi -Childebert, animé d’un zèle particulier pour cette église destinèe à son -peuple, l’a dotée de richesses qui ne doivent jaimais s’épuiser; -toujours passioné pour les intèrêts de la religion, il s’est empressé -d’augmenter ses ressources. Nouveau Melchisédech, notre roi est en même -temps un pontife qui remplit exactement ses devoirs de fidèle comme ses -devoirs de pasteur. Bien qu’occupé dans le palais qu’il habite du soin -de rendre la justice, son plus grand désir est d’imiter l’example des -saints évêques. Il quitte la première charge pour en remplir une autre -avec plus d’honneur, et le souvenir de ses grandes actions lui assure -l’immortalité.” - -By the twelfth century the basilica has disappeared, and its place has -been taken, not by a single church, but by two churches side by -side--Sainte Marie on the north, Saint Etienne on the south. At the -beginning of the century Saint Etienne was the more important of the -two, having escaped plunder at the hands of the Normans, who wrought -considerable destruction in the sister church; but a twelfth-century -archdeacon, Etienne de Garlande, took upon himself the task of -restoring Sainte Marie, which became known as the _nova ecclesia_, and -formed the foundation of the great basilica planned by Maurice de Sully. -This church, begun in 1163, was to unite Saint Etienne and Sainte Marie; -the foundation stone was laid by Pope Alexander III., and in 1218 the -remains of the old church of Saint Etienne were destroyed to make way -for the south aisle of Notre Dame. The work went on into the thirteenth -century; the great west portal was probably finished about 1223, and -those of the transepts some forty years later. - -“There are absolutely only these two churches (Notre Dame and the Sainte -Chapelle) left standing in the island of the city, and there is nothing -in the history of Paris which more clearly exhibits the modern -disposition to make a _tabula rasa_ of the past.” In the Middle Ages the -great Cathedral of Paris--“cathedral” since the twelfth century--stood -in its island of La Cité amidst a perfect cluster of lesser churches, of -which only the chapel of Saint Louis remains. Mr. Hamerton, whose words -are quoted above, gives quite a considerable list of them in his “Paris -in Old and Present Times,” Sainte Genèviève, Saint Jean le Rond, Saint -Denis du Pas, and its brother church of La Chartre--these are but a few -of their names, and yet these names are all that now remain of churches -where mediæval knights and burghers and artificers worshipped, and into -whose building mediæval architects, unknown and forgotten, put their -best work and their highest service; even their sites are, in most -cases, undiscoverable amongst the great mass of buildings, and bright -wide streets, and green gardens of Paris as we know it. Some of these -churches, like Saint Aignan and Saint Germain-le-Vieux, have left a few -isolated columns and stones, but to find these, as one writer observes, -“il faudrait pénétrer dans les maisons et se livrer à des recherches.” -Another, the old Madeleine, has suffered an even worse fate, its last -remaining chapel being now transformed into a wine-shop at the corner of -the Rue des Marmousets; a private house now stands upon the site of -Saint-Pierre aux Bœufs, built, says an inscription on the façade, in -the middle of the twelfth century, and demolished as late as 1837; and -as for Saint Michel du Palais, within whose walls Archibishop Maurice de -Sully baptised Philip Augustus in 1165, nothing remains to the memory of -the Archangel but the bridge over the Seine. “‘There is my bridge -still,’ Saint Michael may think, ‘but as for my church I seek for it in -vain.’” These vanished churches are too many all to be numbered here, -since in La Cité alone there were, up to the eighteenth century, no less -than seventeen of them, and outside the walls of the city there were -many more. - -[Illustration: NÔTRE DAME, PARIS] - -Happily Notre Dame has better withstood the attacks of time and all the -accidents of fire, plunder, and desecration. Five years or so after the -completion of the western façade a fire broke out, and in the -restoration the double-arched buttresses of the former apse disappeared, -and the windows were enlarged in accordance with the growing love of -light which was being manifested in other cathedrals all through France. -In more modern times--towards the middle of the eighteenth century--the -extraordinary taste of the late Renaissance period ordered the removal -of all the stained glass both of nave and choir--leaving, however, the -western rose window and the two in the transepts--and this is, of -course, a loss that can never be repaired, although the restorations of -Viollet-le-Duc have probably, as Mr. Hamerton says, gone some way -towards bringing back the original effect of light in the interior of -the church. The exterior of the nave likewise suffered not a little from -the doubtless well-meaning zeal of an unarchitectural age, which had -literally stripped it bare of all ornament: “One after another the -architects had suppressed the advancing parts of the buttresses between -the chapels, the gables, the friezes, the balustrades--in one word, the -entire ornamentation of these same chapels, the pinnacles which -decorated the tops of the buttresses, with the statues which accompanied -them and their flowering spires, the picturesque gargoyles which -rendered the services of throwing the rain-water to a distance from the -walls.” - -“We may take it for granted,” Mr. Lonergan says in his “Historic -Churches of Paris,” “that those who dedicated the church to the Virgin -were not influenced alone by the fact that a previous temple in her -honour had stood on the banks of the river, but by the impetus given to -what Protestants call her ‘worship’ and Catholics her ‘cult’ or devotion -in the twelfth century.” From the earliest times there existed, -especially among sailors and fishermen, the feeling of devotion to the -Virgin Mary. They prayed to her who held the Divine Infant on her knees -to intercede for the lives of men who sailed across the waters on dark -and starless nights. This worship of the Virgin steadily grew all over -France, and the founders of the great monastic orders--Saint Augustin, -Saint Benedict, and Saint Francis, and the famous Saint Bernard of -Clairvaulx--are all included by Dante as paying special devotion to the -Virgin; and history has furnished us with many other names, amongst -which are those of Hildebert, the bishop of Le Mans, Yves and Pierre, -bishops of Chartres, and the scholar of St. Denis, Pierre Abélard. At -no time was this more noticeable than in the centuries following the -completion of Notre Dame. In consequence of this great growth of -Mary-worship, the Virgin came to be regarded as the protectress of the -people--as, indeed, she is to this day--and the Church of Notre Dame -began to be the people’s church, a kind of centre, civil as well as -ecclesiastical, of the city life. For instance, Notre Dame in Paris -became not only the house of worship and prayer, but “the house both of -God and man,” and this through no irreverent feeling. The _parvis_ or -garden in front of the Cathedral became a gathering-ground for the -townsfolk--a remnant of this feeling, it would seem, still exists in the -markets which in lesser towns are nearly always held round the -church--fairs took place there, the buyers bringing their purchases to -be blessed by the priest as they passed the church steps; and the -various festivals of the Church gave rise to secular feasts and sports -of all kinds, as well as to the performance of the miracle plays which -were attended by the people with such simple wonder and reverence, and -which in England laid the foundation of the secular comedies. - -The monks of Saint Germain originally came from Autun, and at first -acknowledged the rule of Saint Basil, which was afterwards exchanged for -that of Saint Benedict. After its restoration in the eleventh century -the foundations became very powerful, and round its walls grew up the -_bourg_ of Saint Germain; later it became the Faubourg of that name, the -“intellectual quarter” of Paris, the haunt of all the most brilliant -spirits of the day; whose streets were trodden by great men, and marked -by the footsteps of genius. - -The Abbey Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés likewise owes its existence -to the Merovingian Childebert. In the sixth century Childebert went on -an expedition against the Visigoths in Spain, and returned triumphant -with a number of sainted relics, among them the tunic of Saint Vincent -and a magnificent gold cross; and in honour of these trophies and for -their safe keeping he built in the fields outside Paris a monastery, -which was consecrated by Saint Germain, so the legend says, the very day -of its royal founder’s death. The abbey was originally dedicated, in -memory of the relics which it guarded, to Saint Vincent and the Holy -Cross; but after the death of its first abbot, Saint Germain, in 576, it -became known by his name. Before the building of the Abbey of Saint -Denis, Saint-Germain-des-Prés was the burial place of the royal house, -and a long line of Childeberts, Chilperics, and Chlothars lie at rest -beneath its stones. It was pillaged and burnt by the Normans no less -than five times, and therefore, when the Abbot Morard set about -rebuilding it in the eleventh century, very little was left of -Childebert’s old foundation. Part of Morard’s work may still be seen in -the present nave of the church; the choir and apse were built later, and -date from the second half of the twelfth century, the church being -finally consecrated by Pope Alexander III. in 1163. - -[Illustration: ST. GERMAIN DES PRÉS, PARIS] - -The wealth of the monastery even so late as the eighteenth century may -be gauged by the indignation of Arthur Young, who in his travels through -France in 1786-7 of course visited the capital and its many churches, -but looked upon everything with the eye of an agriculturist, and only -saw in the rich meadows of the Benedictines so much wasted material for -a prosperous farm. “It is the richest abbey in France; the abbot has -300,000 liv. a year. I lose my patience at seeing such revenues thus -bestowed, consistent with the spirit of the tenth century, but not with -that of the eighteenth. What a noble farm would a fourth of this income -establish! What turnips, what cabbages, what potatoes, what clover, what -sheep, what wool! Are not these things better than a fat ecclesiastic?” - -Like Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the Sainte Chapelle originated in a -sanctuary where precious relics might be safely deposited, though its -foundation does not date back to the early zeal of the fresh-converted -Merovingian kings, but only to the crusades of Louis the Saint, who -brought from the East the Crown of Thorns and some fragments of the True -Cross. Legend describes the king as walking bare-foot through the -streets of Sens and Paris, displaying his treasure-trove to an adoring -multitude; but it soon became necessary to place the relics in -sanctuary, and accordingly, in 1245, the celebrated architect, Pierre de -Montereau, began to work out his plans under the direction of the king, -and completed his chapel three years later. Its form was a curious one, -consisting of two stages; the upper one, dedicated to the Sainte -Couronne and the Sainte Croix, was reserved for the king and his court; -the lower, bearing the name of the Virgin, was given over to servants, -retainers, and the general multitude. - -This upper chapel, which was then and still is to-day the chief glory of -the building, was on a level with the royal apartments in the adjoining -palace, and could thus be reached without descending into the court and -re-ascending by the staircase. This chapel was the joy of Saint Louis’ -life, and during his reign no cost was spared in order to make it a -fitting receptacle for the relics which he venerated and believed in as -simply as a child, and for which he is said to have paid to the -Byzantine emperor the enormous sum of two million _livres_. As it now -stands, the Sainte Chapelle has been almost completely restored, and -this restoration, which was carried out in the last century, was -embarked upon none to soon, judging from the accounts given of the state -of the church after the Revolution. To begin with, it had been -desecrated under the rule of the Goddess of Reason, and used for storing -legal documents and papers; the beautiful glass of its windows, with its -marvellous minuteness of design, was either destroyed or irregularly -patched up; the spire was gone, and so was much of the sculpture and -ornament, both outside and inside. There it stood, this monument of the -piety of St. Louis, its founder forgotten, its glory departed, and its -actual structure in danger of being swept away. Even its ancient -surroundings, the Great Hall, the _Cour de Mai_, and the _Cour des -Comptes_ of Louis XII., had vanished; their place was occupied by modern -law-courts, and the half-ruined church seemed hopelessly out of date and -out of place. By a great stroke of good fortune the balance turned in -its favour; it was decided not to pull it down, but to restore it as a -chapel attached to the courts, where the lawyer might hear Mass; and, -thanks to the care and skill of the restoring architect, it stands -to-day in all essentials much as it did when Louis IX. worshipped there -with his courtiers, when the light from the tall windows streamed in -upon the bright armour and rich garments of hundreds of noble figures, -staining them with new and wonderful colours, and when the courts below -were alive with a motley crowd, townsfolk of Paris, pressing to get a -sight of the king’s majesty, servants and retainers thronging round the -doors or filing into Mass in the Chapel of the Virgin below, whose low -roof and vaulting really gave it the appearance of a crypt to the -soaring chapel of the Crown and Cross above it. - -Until the time of Henri II. the kings of France lived in the great -“Salle des Pas Perdus” as their royal palace; then the Parlement of -Paris--a purely legal body--took possession of it, and the easy-going -canons of the Sainte Chapelle ministered not to princes and nobles, but -to the brisk, alert _gens de la robe_, who were quick to note and to -laugh at their comfortable ecclesiastical placidity and ridiculous petty -quarrels. Boileau, the famous satirist, was the son of a registrar, and -grew up under the shadow of the law-courts, and it was he who in his -“Lutrin” victimised the poor, ease-loving prebends and canons more than -any of his fellows, though one of these canons was his own brother, and -after Boileau’s death heaped coals of fire upon the head, or rather, -upon the memory, of the poet, by allowing his bones to rest within the -building at whose servants he had so mercilessly mocked. The lawyers -still have the possession of the Sainte Chapelle; but all stalls and -seats have been removed and its doors are opened once a year only, when -the autumn session begins, being inaugurated by the “Messe Rouge,” -celebrated by the Archbishop of Paris himself. - -[Illustration: PONT ST. MICHEL AND STE. CHAPELLE, PARIS] - -The Benedictine foundation of Saint Denis, though it stands outside the -walls of the city, in a suburb where the tangle of machinery and smoke -of factories make strange surroundings for the peace of the cloister, -must always claim a right to come within the story of France’s capital, -since it is the last resting-place of France’s kings. The legends of -Paris and its saints ascribe the original foundation of the abbey church -to the following story, which has come to be very well known, concerning -as it does the patron saint of France. Saint Denis, who, as we have -seen, was the first to evangelise in the marshes of Lutetia, suffered -martyrdom under the Valerian persecutions in the third century, in the -city where his good work had begun; but after his head had been struck -off, the body, instead of falling lifeless at once, rose up from the -block, took the head in its hands, and walked out of the city to the -neighbouring town of Catulliacum, where it finally sought refuge in the -villa of one Catulla, a Roman lady of noble and good repute, who -instantly took possession of her sainted charge and gave him Christian -burial within her garden. So far is legend; at any rate, a chapel was -erected over the shrine, and became, of course, an object of pilgrimage -for many years. Then comes the story of Dagobert, the rebellious young -prince who sought sanctuary in the chapel against the wrath of his -father; and, inspired by a vision of the saint, promised to build a -church on the same site. Accordingly, on his accession to his father’s -throne, the Abbey and Church of Saint Denis were founded in about 769. -In the following century the Benedictine monks purchased their immunity -from Norman invaders by large sums of money; but this contract seems to -have availed them little, since the pirates, probably hoping for fresh -plunder, despoiled the monastery as they had despoiled -Saint-Germain-des-Prés. After this the foundation fell into a terrible -state of neglect. Its abbots were fighting men--not necessarily -ecclesiastics, for many nobles in those days held lay abbacies; Hugh -Capet, for instance, was abbot of Saint Martin at Tours--and not until -the day of the famous Suger did it recover anything like its ancient -prestige. Suger was an old pupil of the Benedictines at Saint Denis, and -a fellow-scholar there with the young prince Louis l’Eveillé, afterwards -Louis VI., whose chief minister he became in later days. In the days of -his prosperity the abbot devoted himself to restoring and beautifying -the church, and left full instructions to be carried out by his -successor, when death prevented him from finishing what had been so -nobly begun. The work languished again, however, until the reign of -Louis IX., when Eudes de Clément and Matthieu de Vendôme took up the -plans once more, and completed the church very much as we now see it. - -It was at Saint Denis that was enacted the romance of the scholar Pierre -Abélard and “la très-sage Hélois” of Villon, whose story is too well -known--and, perhaps, also too secular--to quote here. Both lie buried -now at Père-la-Chaise, their remains having been removed from the -monastery at Cluny in 1791 by Lenoir, to his collection of fragments and -old monuments spared from the Revolution. It was after the Revolution -that the abbey suffered more terrible damage and desecration than ever -invading heathens or conquering English had worked there. The -Convention, in its haste to rid the country of every trace of the hated -monarchy, must needs assail dead kings and queens as well as living -ones. Consequently every tomb was ravaged and the dust of a hundred -kings lay mingling with the dust of the common ditch. With the -restoration of the Bourbons, Louis XVIII. ordered also the replacement, -as far as it was possible, of the bones of his dead ancestors; and the -French kings sleep once again at Saint Denis, peaceful and undisturbed -as in other years, though a smoky veil hangs over their resting-place -and the roar of furnaces breaks the quiet of their ancient tombs. - - - - -Index - - -Abadie, M., restoration of St. Pierre, 269. - -Abbaye aux Dames, Caen, 118-119. - -Abbeville on the Somme-- - Church of St. Wolfran, 27-28. - Geological discoveries, 21-22. - Historical sketch, 22-26. - Rue des Trois Cailloux, 27. - -Abbeys and Abbey-Churches-- - St. Denis, 78-81, 381-384. - St. Germain-des-Près, 372-376. - St. Jean des Vignes, 61. - St. Ouen, 82-83. - Sainte-Colombe, 300. - -Abélard, Pierre, 346, 370, 383. - -Académie Française, 113; - Bossuet admitted, 334. - -Agenticum, ancient name of Sens, 299. - -Aiguillon, 268. - -Aisne, the, 54. - -Aître de St. Maclou, Rouen, 83-84. - -Alatri, walls of, 261. - -Alcock, Bishop, 274. - -Alcuin, his school of Theology, 184. - -Alençon, 172. - -Alençon, Duc d’, attempted siege of Paris, 353-354. - -Alexander III., Pope, 365, 375. - -Allier, the, 358. - -Amaury, Montfort d’, family, 90. - -Amboise, 192. - -Amiens Cathedral, 27-37, 75. - -Angers-- - Castle, 175-176. - Cathedral of St. Maurice, 174, 179-180. - “Cheval Blanc,” the, 176. - Historical sketch, 169-174. - Préfecture, old cloister in the, 176-179. - Roman basilica, 52. - -Angevin Style, 179-180. - -Angoulême-- - Cathedral of St. Pierre, 268-270. - Historical sketch, 267-268. - -Angoulême, François d’. _See_ Francis I. - -Anjou, Counts of, 170-174. - -Anne of Austria, 274. - -Anne of Brittany, 23, 194. - -Anselm of Bec, 121. - -Aquitaine-- - Domed churches of, 262-266. - Truce of God in, 125. - -Archæological Institute of Great Britain, 75. - -Ariège, Roman walls in, 337. - -Arnauld, 333. - -Arques, surrender of, 248. - -Arras tapestries, 180. - -Ascelin, son of Arthur, 122. - -Attila, attack on Orléans, 223. - -Augustin, St., 370. - -Aurelianum, ancient name of Orléans, 223. - -Autun Cathedral, 302. - -Auxerre-- - Cathedral of St. Etienne, 239, 302-310. - Church of St. Eusèbe, 310; - of St. Germain, 305-309. - Hôtel de l’Épée, 310. - -Avallon, 305. - -Avranches, 144. - -Aymer de Valence, tomb at Westminster, 77, 257. - -Azo, Prince of Liguria, 152. - - -Barker, Mr., “Two Summers in Guyenne,” 293. - -Bar-sur-Seine, 314. - -“Bastard of Orléans,” 215. - -Bayeux-- - Cathedral, 109-110. - Description, 105, 107-108. - Historical sketch, 104, _et seq._ - Lanterne des Morts, 108. - “Maison d’Adam,” 108. - Maison du Gouverneur, 108. - Rue des Bouchers, 107; - Rue Général de Daïs, 107; - Rue St. Martin, 107. - Seminary chapel, 110. - Tapestry, the, 110-115. - -Béat, St., Legend of, 40. - -Beaufort, Cardinal, 353. - -Beaugency, 45. - -Beaujeu, Suzanne de, 246. - -Beauvais-- - _Basse Œuvre_, 342. - Bishops of, 344-346. - Cathedral, 341-342. - Historical sketch, 342-347. - Jacquerie revolts, 325-329, 343-344. - Jeanne Hachette, story of, 346-347. - Sieges of, 130-133, 344-345. - -Beauvais, Collège de, 345. - -Benedict, St., 370. - -Benedictines of St. Denis, Paris, 381-384. - -Benvenuto, Cellini, 248. - -Bernard of Auxerre, legend of, 309-310. - -Bernard of Clairvaulx, St., 370. - -Bertrand, St., 167. - -Bessin, district, description, 104-106, 116. - -Bienheuré, St., 216. - -“Black Death,” 126. - -Black Prince, siege of Limoges, 252-253; - Battle of Poitiers, 274-279. - -Blois-- - Cathedral of St. Louis, 192-193. - Château of, 192, 194-200; - tragedy of the, 197-200. - Church of St. Nicholas, 193-194. - -Blücher, siege of Soissons, 57. - -Boileau, “Lutrin,” 378. - -Bon Secours Convent, Rouen, 73. - -Bond, Mr., _cited_, 28, 51, 77, 83, 93, 292, 309. - -Bononia, ancient town of, 19. - -Bordeaux-- - Cathedral, 292. - Description, 289-291. - Historical sketch, 290-291. - -Bossuet, sketch of his career, 330-335. - -Boucher, the painter of Versailles, 228. - -Boucher, treasurer of Orléans, 223. - -Bouillon, Godfrey de, 22. - -Boulogne-- - Cathedral, 21. - Historical sketch, 15-21. - Porte Gayole, 21. - -Bourdaloue, 228, 333. - -Bourges-- - Cathedral, 235-236. - Historical sketch, 227-234. - House of Jacques Cœur, 232, 261. - Roman wall of, 337. - -Boy, Jehan le, 94. - -Brétigny, Peace of, 280. - -Bricqueville-Colombières. _See_ Colombières. - -Buch, Captal de, 326-329. - -Buckingham, Duke of, attack on La Rochelle, 282-286. - -Bulet, M., “Dictionnaire Celtique,” 357. - - -Caen-- - Abbaye aux Dames, 118-119. - Church of St. Stephen, 118-119; - burial of William I. in, 120-124. - Historical sketch, 116-127. - Truce of God, 122-125. - -Cæsar, Julius, convocation of the Parisii, 356-359. - -Calixtus, Pope, 231; - council at Rheims, 47. - -Calvados district, 116. - -Candes, 184. - -Canterbury Cathedral, 32; - choir of, 301, 302, 309. - -Cardinal de la Grange, Chapel of, 27, 28. - -Carentan, fall of, 139. - -Castile, 292. - -Cathedrals-- - Amiens, 27-37, 75. - Angers, St. Maurice, 174, 179-180. - Angoulême, St. Pierre, 268-270. - Auxerre, St. Etienne, 239, 302-310. - Bayeux, 109-110. - Beauvais, 341-342. - Blois, St. Louis, 192-193. - Bordeaux, 292. - Boulogne, 21. - Bourges, 235-236. - Chartres, 207-211. - Coutances, 149. - Evreux, 89, 93-94. - La Rochelle, 289. - Lâon, 39-42. - Le Mans, St. Julien, 161-163. - Limoges, St. Etienne, 252, 253, 262. - Lisieux, 96. - Meaux, 324-325. - Moulins, 251. - Nevers, St. Cyr, 240-243. - Orléans, 224. - Paris, Notre Dames, 365, 369-371; - the old St. Etienne, 363-364. - Périgueux, St. Etienne, 262. - Poitiers, St. Pierre, 270-273. - Rheims, 48-51. - Rouen, Notre Dame, 74-82. - Saint-Lô, 133-134. - Senlis, Notre Dame, 338-341. - Sens, St. Etienne, 235, 300-305. - Soissons, Notre Dame, 57-61. - Tours, St. Gatien, 188-193, 337. - Troyes, 319-322. - -Catherine, wife of Henry V., betrothal, 313-314. - -Catulliacum, 381. - -Cauchon, Bishop Pierre, trial of Joan of Arc, 67-72, 344-345. - -Caxton, 106. - -Celts, Saxon opposition in the Bessin, 104. - -Chambord, 192. - -Champagne, Counts of, 310-313. - -Changé, storming of, 158-161. - -Chanzy, General, defence of Le Mans, 157-159. - -Chapelle de la Fierte Saint-Romain, legend of, 78-82. - -Charente, the, 289-290. - -Charlemagne, the, 187, 360. - -Charles I. of England, 282. - -Charles V., Emperor, 24, 247, 314. - -Charles VII., pusillanimity of, 45-46, 350-354; - attempt on Rouen, 72; - reparation to Coutances, 140; - “King of Bourges,” 227; - spoliation of Jacques Cœur, 231; - proclaimed at Poitiers, 280; - crowning, 291. - -Charles IX., 197. - -Charles X., 48. - -Charles the Bold, attack on Beauvais, 346-347. - the Fat, policy of, 361. - the Simple, 41, 64, 361. - the Poet-Duke, 197. - Prince Frederick, 156; - taking of Le Mans, 158-161. - -Chartier, Alain, the “Curiale,” 105-106; - “Bréviare des Nobles,” 106-107. - Guillaume, 107. - Jean, 106, 107. - -Chartres-- - Cathedral, 207-211. - Counts of, 202-205. - Franco-Prussian War, capitulation, 206-207. - Henry V. crowned at, 205. - Historical sketch, 201-207. - Porte Guillaume, 202. - Tour-de-Ville, 201-202. - -Château-- - Barrière, Périgueux, 258-261. - Blois, 194-200; - the Guise tragedy, 197-200. - Moulins, 248. - -Châteaudun, 206-207; - fall of, 212-215; - the Château, 215. - -Châteauneuf, 184. - -Chaumont, 192. - -Chauvigny on the Vienne, 277. - -Chenonceaux, 192. - -Childebert, churches built by, 363-364, 372-375. - -Christianity, introduction into Gaul, 6-7. - -Churches, Abbey or Collegiate, 52-53. - -Clovis, first king of Paris, 47, 56, 89, 360. - -Cluny Monastery, 383. - Musée de, 363-364. - -Cœur, Jacques, story of, 231; - house at Bourges, 232. - -Cognac, 253. - -Coligny, 282. - -Cologne Cathedral, 342. - -Colombières, the Huguenot defence of Saint-Lô, 129-130; - attacks on Coutances, 143. - -“Colonne de la Grande Armée,” Boulogne, 20. - -Commune, founding of the, 152-153; - established at Sens, 300. - -Compiègne, siege of, 344-345. - -Condé, 282, 333. - -Condom, Bossuet Bishop of, 334. - -Constable de Bourbon, Charles, story of, 245-248. - -Constantine the Great, 137. - -Constantius Chlorus fortifies Coutances, 137. - -Corday, Charlotte, 96, 127. - -Cordeliers-- - Church at Toulouse, 292. - Convent of, the, at Saint-Émilion, 297. - -Corporations, Gaulish, 358-359. - -Côtentin, the, 137; - Barons of, 138. - -Coucy, Robert de, building of Rheims Cathedral, 48-51. - -Coutances-- - Bishops of, 145. - Bricqueville-Colombières, 143. - Cathedral, 145-146. - Church of St. Pierre, 137, 145. - Historical sketch, 136-146. - Jardin, Public, 149. - Mediæval customs, 149, 150. - Musée, the, 149. - -Crécy, 139. - -Crusades, 22-23; - Freeman _quoted_ (see also Truce of God), 124-125. - - -Daboval, M., 40. - -Dagobert, King, story of, 78, 382. - -“Danse Macabre” in the Aître de St. Maclou, 83-84. - -Dante, 370. - -Darnley Stuarts, the, 90. - -Defensor, ruler of Le Mans, 152. - -Denis, St., 359; - Legend of, 381-382. - -Derby, Earl of, relief of Angoulême, 267, 268. - -Dionysius the Areopagite, 359. - -Domrémy, 45. - -Don Pedro, dispute of, 291-292. - -Dordogne, the, 292. - -Dormans, Jean de, Bishop of Beauvais, account of, 345-346. - -Dunois, Captain, 219-220, 354. - - -Edict of Nantes, revocation, effect in Troyes, 315-316. - -Edward I., the _Villes bastides_ of, 293. - -Edward III., campaign in France, 126, 139-140, 344. - -Eleanor of Castile, 23. - -Eleanor of Poitou, 100; - dowry, 279-280, 290-291. - -Eleutherius, St., 359. - -Emilion the Hermit, 294. - -Enamel workers of Limoges, 251, 254-258. - -English influence on French architecture, 75-77. - -Enlart, M., “Manuel d’Archéologie Française,” 32; - on origin of Flamboyant Style, 75. - -Eudes, Count of Paris, 361. - -Eudes de Clément, 383. - -Eureptiolus, Bishop of Coutances, 145. - -Evans, geologist, 21. - -Evreux-- - Boulevard Chambaudin, 93. - Cathedral, 74, 93-84. - Church of St. Taurin, 52, 95. - Description, 88, 89. - Historical sketch, 89-92. - Rue Josephine, 94-95. - - -Faidherbe, General, 84. - -Faïence industry at Nevers, 244; - at Limoges, 251-254. - -Falaise, 126. - -Felton, John, 285. - -Fénélon, Abbé, 333. - -Fergusson, _cited_, 53, 83, 342. - -Ferri, Paul, Calvinist, 333. - -Feuquières, Marquis de, 333. - -“Five Sisters” at York, 103. - -Flamboyant Style, M. Enlart’s paper on origin, 75; - principal features, 75-76. - -Fleury, 333. - -Foix, Earl of, relief of the ladies of Meaux, 325-326. - -Fortunatus’ description of St. Etienne, Paris, 363-364. - -Francis I., connection with Abbeville, 24; - “Manoir de François 1er,” Lisieux, 96; - and Charles de Montpensier, 245-247, 169; - development of enamel painting, 257. - -Franco-Prussian War, incidents in Rouen, 84-87; - incidents near Le Mans, 156-161; - _Times_ Correspondent, _quoted_, 156-161, 168; - capitulation of Chartres, 206-207; - occupation of Orléans, 224. - -Freeman, _cited_, 2, 42, 65, 83, 104-105, 114, - 116, 122-125, 179-180, 235, 243, 252, 261, 273, 277. - -Froissart, _cited_, 253, 279, 343. - -Fulk the Black, Count of Anjou, 139, 171-172, 205. - -Fulk the Good, Count of Anjou, 170-171. - -Fulk the Red, Count of Anjou, 170. - - -Gabelle tax, imposed by Richelieu, 144. - -Gallic cities, origin of, 5-6. - -Gargoyle, the, of Rouen, legend regarding, 81-82. - -Garlande, Etienne de, restoration of Sainte-Marie, 364-365. - -Garonne, port of the, 292. - -Gatianus, St., 183. - -Gaudry, Bishop, 40. - -Gaul, ancient traces in town names, 5-6. - -Geoffrey the Hammer, Count of Anjou, 172-173. - -Geoffrey, Count of Gascony, 248. - -Geoffrey of Mayenne, swears the Civil oath, 155. - -Geoffrey Plantagenet, 99. - -Geoffroy de Montbray, Bishop of Coutances, 121, 145. - -Geological discoveries in the Somme Valley, 21-22. - -Germain, St., 309, 372. - -Gersendis, Countess, 152. - -Gervase, _cited_, 32. - -Gesoriacum, Roman town, 19. - -Gilbert of Evreux, 121. - -Gilbert of Lisieux, 121-122. - -Girondists at Caen, 126-127; - at Saint-Émilion, 297-298. - -Gisors, 47. - -Gloucester Cathedral, 93. - -Gonzagas, occupation of Nevers, 244. - -Green Croft, Cambridge, 274. - -“Grotte de Saint-Émilion,” 297. - -Guesclin, Bertrand de, 252, 280. - -Guilds, Craftsmen’s, in Paris, 360. - -Guise, Cardinal de, 199-200. - -Guise, Henri de, tragedy of, 197-198. - -_Guyale_, meetings of the, 21. - -Guyenne, _villes bastides_ of, 293. - - -Hachette, Jeanne, bravery of, 346-347. - -Hadouin, St., tomb of, 164. - -Hagano, Bishop, 125. - -Hamerton, Mr., “Paris in Old and Present Times,” _quoted_, 365-366. - -Ham-sur-Somme, Castle of, 21. - -Harcourt, Geoffrey d’, 140. - -Harold of Denmark, 66. - -Headlam, Mr. Cecil, “Story of Chartres,” _quoted_, 206-207. - -Héloise, 383. - -Henry I., burning of Evreux, 90. - -Henry II., marriage at Lisieux, 100. - -Henry III., 187, 197. - -Henry IV., of Navarre, crowned at Chartres, 45, 205; - entry into Rouen, 73. - -Henry V., 67, 126, 139; - Agincourt, 197; - betrothal in Troyes, 313-314; - siege of Meaux, 329-330. - -Henry VIII., siege of Boulogne, 19. - -Heremas, Abbot, 46, 47. - -Herodotus, _cited_, 357. - -Herlwin, knight, 120. - -Hilary, Bishop of Poitiers, 184. - -Hildebert, Bishop of Le Mans, 370. - -Hoffbauer, M., “Paris à travers les Ages,” _cited_, 363-364. - -Hôtel Rambouillet, 333. - -Hugh, Capet, 22, 362, 382. - -Hugh of Tours, Abp., 171. - -Hugh of Vermandois, 23. - -Hugh the Great, 361. - -Hugues de Morville, Bp., 145. - -Huguenots, troubles at Rouen, 72-73; - stronghold at Saint-Lô, 129-130; - attack on Coutances, 143; - resistance in La Rochelle, 281-286; - massacre in Troyes, 314-315. - -“Hundred Days,” the, 57. - -Hundred Years’ War, effect on French Architecture, 76-77, 100. - - -Ingelgar, Count of Anjou, 170. - -Innocent, Pope, troubles with France, 334-335. - - -Jacquerie Revolts, 325-326, 343-344. - -James, Mr. Henry, “Little Tours in France,” _cited_, 174, 301, 232-235. - -Jargeau, capture by Jeanne d’Arc, 45. - -Jesus College, Cambridge, 274. - -Joan of Arc, Story of, 45-46; - death at Rouen, 67-72; - relief of Orléans, 218-223; - capture of Troyes, 314; - her capture at Beauvais, 344-345; - the attempted siege of Paris, 350-355. - -John, Duke of Bedford, death, 72. - -John Lackland, 66; - massacre at Evreux, 90. - -John of France, at Poitiers, 274-279. - -Josephine, Empress, 90. - -Julian, Emperor, 359-360. - -Julian, St., bishop of Le Mans, 163; - tomb of, 164. - -Jupiter, temple of, St. Etienne, Paris, built on site, 363. - - -La Beurière quarter of Boulogne, 16. - -La Chartre, 158. - -La Cité, Paris, 365; - Churches of, 365-366. - -La Hire, Captain, 354; - entry into Orléans, 219-220. - -La Rochelle-- - Cathedral, 289. - Historical sketch, 281-286. - Huguenot resistance, 281-286. - Tour de la Chaîne, 289. - Tour de la Lanterne, 289. - Tour Saint-Nicholas, 286. - Seaport of, 286-287. - -La Trappe monastery, 335. - -La Tremouille, policy of, 354. - -La Trinité, Abbey of, Vendôme, 216. - -La Vendée, Royalists take Le Mans, 156. - -Laack, Church of, 240. - -Lâon-- - Cathedral, 39-42. - Historical sketch, 39-40. - Type of Gaulish hill-city, 38. - -Lancelot, M., discovery regarding the Bayeux tapestry, 113-114. - -Lanfranc, work in Evreux Cathedral, 93. - -Langeais, 192. - -Langres Cathedral, 302. - -Lanterne des Morts, Bayeux, 108. - -Laudus, Bishop, founder of Saint-Lô, 145. - -Le Mans-- - Cathedral of St. Julian, 161-163. - Characteristics, 151. - Commune founded in, 155. - Franco-Prussian War, incidents, 156-161. - Historical sketch, 151-161. - Notre Dame de la Coûture, 163-168. - Notre Dame du Pré, 163-168. - Place des Jacobins, 161. - -Le Sauvage, chief of the Nu-Pieds, 145. - -Leduc, his “peasant girl” in Saint-Lô, 129. - -Lenoir, 383. - -Leo IX., Pope, Council at Rheims, 46-47. - -Lethaby, Mr., “Mediæval Art,” _quoted_, 179-180. - -Liane river, the, 19. - -Libourne on the Dordogne, 292; - _bastides_ of, 293. - -Lichfield Cathedral, 75. - -Limoges-- - Cathedral of St. Etienne, 252-253, 262. - “Central” Hotel, 251. - Description, 251-253. - Enamel workers of, 251-254. - Historical sketch, 252-254. - Rue du 71^{ième} Mobiles, 254. - -Lisieux-- - Church of St. Jacques, 99; - of St. Pierre, 95, 100-103. - Description, 95-99. - Grande Rue, etc., 96. - Historical sketch, 99-100. - _Hospice_, 100. - Rue du Paradis, 103. - -Limousin, Léonard, enamel work of, 257-258. - -Loire, the, 157; - near Angers, 174; - near Touraine, 181-182; - at Vendôme, 216-217. - -Lonergan, Mr., “Historic Churches of Paris,” 370. - -Louis le Débonnair, 57. - -Louis le Jeune, 61. - -Louis Philippe, 20. - -Louis IX., 139; procession through Sens, 300. - -Louis XI., 45; - seizure of Boulogne, 19; - at Plessis-les-Tours, 187; - founds university at Bourges, 227. - -Louis XII., marriage with Mary Tudor, 23-24; - proclamation of, 187; - rooms of, in Château de Blois, 196; - and Charles, Constable de Bourbon, 246. - -Louis XIII., 144. - -Louis XIV., 334. - -Louis XVIII., restoration of St. Denis, 383. - -Loup, Saint, bishop of Auxerre, 309. - -Louvre, exhibition of the Bayeux tapestry in the, 114. - -Lucian, St., 343. - -Luitgarde, third wife of Charlemagne, 187. - -Lutetia, _see also_ Paris, 357; - ancient emblems, 357-358. - - -Madeleine, the, Paris, 366. - -Madeleine, Troyes, 322-323. - -Maine, Bishops and Counts of, 151-152. - -Manteuffel, General, 84-87. - -Marguerite de Provence, 300. - -Marne, the, near Paris, 290; - at Meaux, 335-336. - -Martial, St., 252. - -Martin, St., 137, 151, 172, 359; - veneration of, 183-184. - -Martinopolis, 184. - -“Martyrdom” and _Confessio_, terms, 309. - -Mascaron of Tulle, 333. - -Masles, Jean le, 107. - -Massillon, 333. - -Matignon, attack on Saint-Lô, 129-130. - -Matilda of Flanders, 117. - -Matthieu de Vendôme, 383. - -Maupertuis, 277; - plains of, 277. - -Maxime, Sainte, 309. - -Mazarin, Cardinal, 244. - -Meaux-- - Bossuet’s connection with, 330-335. - Cathedral, 324-325. - Henry V. besieges, 329-330. - Historical sketch, 325-335. - Jacquerie revolts, 325-329. - Mills of, 335-336. - -Mecklenburg, Duke of, 57, 158, 161. - -Medici, Catherine de’, 197. - -Mellon, Saint, 63. - -Melun, 358. - -Metz, 333. - -Midi, the, 258. - -Mittelzal, church of, 240. - -Monstrelet, _cited_, 313-314, 329. - -Montbray, Bishop de, 138. - -Montbray, Cathedral de, demolished by the Huguenots, 143. - -Montereau, Pierre de, 376. - -Montfaucon, discovery regarding the Bayeux tapestry, 113. - -Montrichard, 192. - -Morard, Abbot, 375. - -Morinière, Quesnel, house in Coutances, 149. - -Moulins-- - Cathedral, 251. - Château Mal-Coiffée, 248. - Constable de Bourbon, story of, 245-248. - Norman invasion of, 248-251. - “Tour de l’Horloge,” 245. - - -Napoleon Bonaparte, 20, 90-93, 114. - -Napoleon III., 20. - -Nautæ Parisiaci, the, 357-359. - -Nautæ Tiberis of Rome, 358-359. - -Navarre, King of, punishment of the “Jacquerie,” 344. - -Nevers-- - Cathedral of St. Cyr, 240-243. - Church of St. Etienne, 52, 239-240. - Counts of, 236-239. - Ducal Palace, 243. - Faïence industry in, 244. - Historical sketch, 236-239. - Porte du Croux, 243-244. - -Nicholas V., Pope, 228. - -Nicolle, tax-gatherer, 144-145. - -Nîmes, amphitheatre of, 358-359. - -Normandy-- - Confiscation by Philippe Auguste, 66-67. - Truce of God in, 122-125. - -Norwich, Sir John, defence of Angoulême, 267-268. - -Notre Dame d’Evreux, 74, 93-94. - -Notre Dame de la Coûture, Le Mans, 163-164, 292. - -Notre Dame de Lâon, 39-42. - -Notre Dame de Paris, 365, 369-371. - -Notre Dame de Rouen, 74-82. - -Notre Dame de Saint-Lô, 133-134. - -Notre Dame de Senlis, 338-341. - -Notre Dame de Soissons, 57-61. - -Notre Dame du Pré, Le Mans, 163-168. - -Notre Dame la Grande, Poitiers, 274. - -Noviodunum, 236. - -Noyon, crownings at, 42-45. - -Nu-pieds, revolt of the, 126, 144-145. - - -Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, connection with the tapestry, 114; - life story of, 115-116. - -Odo of Chartres, 205. - -Oger the Dane, 64. - -Orléans-- - Cathedral, 224. - Church of St. Bonnet, 228. - Crownings at, 45. - Historical sketch, 218-224. - Les Augustin’s, fortress of, 219. - Porte Regnart, 220. - Prussian occupation, 224. - Relief of, 218-223. - Saint Loup, 219. - -Orléans, Charles d’, 106. - -Orléans, Gaston d’, 197. - -Orléans-Longueville, François d’, 215. - -Our Lady of Victories, Joan of Arc’s dedication, 354-355. - - -Paris-- - Bossuet’s sermons, 333-334. - Cæsar’s convocation of the - Parisii, 356-358. - Chapels of, 365-366. - Collège de Beauvais, 345-346. - Early importance, 362-363. - Frankish seizure of, 360. - Historical sketch, 348-363. - La Cité, 365; - Churches of, 365-366. - Lutetia, ancient trade of, 359. - Madeleine, the old, chapels of, 366-369. - Notre Dame, 365, 369-371. - Pont Notre Dame, 358-362. - Rue des Marmousets, 366. - Saint Denis, Benedictine foundation, 381-384. - Saint Etienne, the first Cathedral, 363-364. - Saint Germain-des-Prés, Abbey, Church of, 372-376. - Saint Louis, Chapel of, 365. - Saint Michael du Palais, 366. - Saint Pierre aux Bœufs, Chapel of, 366. - Saint Chapelle, 375-381. - Saint Marie, 365. - “Salle des Pas Perdus,” 378. - -Parisian Navigation, the, 357-358. - -“Parisii,” meaning of term, 357. - -Parker “Glossary,” 31. - -Patay, battle of, 45. - -Pater, Walter, “Miscellaneous Studies,” _cited_, 36-37; - “Imaginary Portraits,” _cited_, 305-306. - -Père-la-Chaise Cemetery, 346, 383. - -Périgord, Cardinal de, 278. - -Périgueux-- - Cathedral of St. Etienne, 262. - Château Barrière, 258-261. - Church of Saint Front, 258-266. - La Cité, 262. - Tour de Vésone, 258-261. - -Perpendicular Style in England, 76. - -Perpetuus, St., 184. - -Perthes, Boucher de, 23. - -Peter the Hermit, 22. - -Philippe Auguste, confiscation, 66-67, 280, 291; - baptism of, 366. - -Pierre, Bishop of Chartres, 370. - -Plessis-les-Tours, 187-188. - -Poitiers-- - Battle of, 274-279. - Cathedral of St. Pierre, 270-273. - Church of Notre Dame la Grande, 274; - Saint Radégonde, 274. - Historical sketch, 279-280. - Temple Saint Jean, 273. - -Poitou in English hands, 279-280. - -Pomerantin, Castle of, 277. - -Pont Notre Dame, 358, 362. - -Ponts d’Ouve, the, 139. - -Porches of French Cathedrals, evolution from the narthex, 319-322. - -Porte du Croux, Nevers, 243-244. - -Porte Gayole, Boulogne, 21. - -Potentian, St., 202, 300. - -Poupinel, 144. - -“Précieuses,” the, 333. - -Presle, Collège de, 346. - -Prestwick, 23. - -Prout, drawings, 24, 36. - - -Queen Eleanor’s Cross, Northampton, 77. - - -Radégonde, Saint, 274. - -Ratuma or Ratumacos, early name of Rouen, 63. - -Raymond of Toulouse, 23. - -Ravenna, 309. - -Ré, Island of, 282. - -Remigius, St., legend of, 47-48. - -Rheims-- - Cathedral, 48-51. - Church of St. Remi, 52-53. - Historical sketch, 42-50. - Hôtel de Moulinet, 53. - Joan the Maid, story of, 45-46. - Papal Councils, 46-47. - -Rheims, Archbishop of, policy, 354. - -Richard the Fearless, 66, 90; - brought up at Bayeux, 105; - his widow builds Coutances Cathedral, 145. - -Richard II., birthplace at Bordeaux, 291. - -Richelieu imposes the Gabelle tax, 144-145; - siege of the Huguenots of La Rochelle, 282-286. - -Richemont, Constable de, 140. - -Robert d’Artois, 300. - -Robert of Flanders, 23. - -Robert of Lisieux, Bishop of Coutances, 145. - -Robert of Normandy, 22, 66. - -Robert of Paris, loss of Neustria, 64-65. - -Rolf the Ganger, 19, 62; - invasion of Rouen, 64; - conversion, 65-66; - settlement of Lisieux, 99-100; - possession of Bayeux, 104. - -Romain, St., Bishop of Rouen, legend, 81-82. - -Roman Conquest, effect on Gaul, 5-10. - -Roman de Rou, the, 65. - -Roman Remains, Basilica of Angers, 52; - at Périgueux, 258-261; - at Bourges, 261; - Practorium Ramparts at Senlis, 336-337; - Palace of the Thermes, near Paris, 357. - -Rouen-- - Aître de St. Maclou, 83-84. - Basse-Vieille-Tour, 78. - Cathedral, 74-82. - Chapelle de la Fierte Saint-Romain, 78-81. - Church of St. Maclou, 83. - Church of St. Ouen, 82-83. - Description of, 73-74. - Franco-Prussian War, incidents, 84-87. - Historical sketch, 62-75. - Huguenot troubles, 72-73. - Jeanne d’Arc, trial of, 67-72. - Market-place, 45. - Place and Haute-Vielle-Tour, 78. - Rue Martainville, 83. - Tour Jeanne d’Arc, 67. - -Roy, General, 84. - -Ruskin, criticisms on Abbeville, 27; - Amiens Cathedral, 28; - on Rouen Churches, 74-75, 83; - Diary, _quoted_--Amiens Cathedral by the Somme, 32-36; - drawings of Abbeville, 27. - -Rusticus, St., 359. - - -Saint Aignan, Churches of, 366. - -Saint Bonnet, Church of, Orléans, 228. - -Saint Clair-sur-Epte, treaty at, 64. - -Saint Cyr, Cathedral, Nevers, 240-243. - -Saint Denis, Paris, Benedictine Foundation, 381-384. - -Saint Etienne, Auxerre, 305-306; - Limoges, 252-253, 262; - Nevers, 52, 239-240; - Paris, 363-364; - Sens, 300-305. - -Saint Eureptiolus, Basilica of, Coutances, 138. - -Saint Eusébe, Church of, Auxerre, 310. - -Saint Front, Church of, Périguex, 258-261. - -Saint Gall, Church of, Switzerland, 240. - -Saint Gatien, Cathedral, Tours, 337-338. - -Saint George’s Chapel, Windsor, 51. - -Saint Germain, Church of, Auxerre, 305-309. - -Saint Germain-des-Prés, Abbey, Church, Paris, 372-376. - -Saint Germain-le-Vieux, 366. - -Saint Jacques, Church of, Lisieux, 99. - -Saint Jean des Vignes, Soissons, 61. - -Saint Jean, temple of, Poitiers, 273. - -Saint Julien, Cathedral, Le Mans, 161-163. - -Saint Julien du Pré, Le Mans, 163-167. - -Saint Lizier, Roman Walls of, 337. - -Saint-Lô -- - Basse Ville, the, 130, 133. - Cathedral, 133-134. - Historical sketch, 128-138. - Maison Dieu, 133. - Place Ferrier, 129. - Rue Torterton, 128. - Tour Beauregard, 129, 130. - Tour de la Rose, 130. - -Saint Louis, Cathedral of, Blois, 192-193. - -Saint Maclou, Rouen, 83. - -Saint Mark’s, Venice, influence on style of Saint Fronte, 262-263. - -Saint Martin, Church of, Tours, 52; - Fort of, on the Island of Ré, 282. - -Saint Maurice, Cathedral, Angers, 174, 179-180, 273. - -Saint Médard, Abbey of, Soissons, 57. - -Saint Michael du Palais, Paris, 366-369. - -Saint Nicholas, Church of, Blois, 193-194. - -Saint Pierre, Cathedral, Angoulême, 269-273; - Church, Auxerre, 305; - Coutances, 137, 145; - Lisieux, 95, 100-103; - Poitiers, 270-273; - Senlis, 337-338. - -Saint Remi, Church of, Rheims, 52-53; - Monastery of, 46-47. - -Saint Sauveur-le-Vicomte, Château of, 140. - -Saint Stephen’s, Caen, burial of William I., 120-122. - -Saint Taurin, Church of, Evreux, 52, 95. - -Saint Urbain Cathedral, Troyes, 74, 75, 322. - -Saint Wolfran, Church of, Abbeville, 27. - -Sainte Chapelle, Paris, 375-381. - -Sainte Colombe, Abbey, Sens, 300. - -Sainte Croix, nuns of, 274. - -Sainte Emilion-- - Grotte of, 297-298. - Vineyards of, 294. - -Sainte Marie, Paris, 364-365. - -Sainte Radégonde, Church of, Poitiers, 274. - -Salisbury Cathedral, 75. - -Saumur, 171. - -Savinian, St., 202, 300. - -Saxon inhabitants of the Bessin, 104. - -Scott, “Quentin Durward,” 187-188. - -Seine, the, 64; - towards Evreux, 88-89. - -Selby Abbey, Yorkshire, 309. - -Semur, 305. - -Senlis-- - Cathedral of Notre Dame, 338-341. - Church of St. Pierre, 337-338. - Historical sketch, 336-337. - Roman remains, 336-337. - -Sens-- - Abbey of Sainte-Colombe, 300. - Cathedral of St. Etienne, 235, 300-305. - Historical sketch, 299-301. - -Soissons-- - Abbey of St. Jean des Vignes, 61. - Cathedral of Notre Dame, 58-61. - Historical sketch, 54-58. - -Somerset, Duke of, 72. - -Somme river, the, 32-36. - -Somme valley, geological discoveries, 21, 22. - -Sorel, Agnes, 231. - -South Kensington Museum, 75. - -Spiers, Mr., “Architecture East and West,” 239-240, 262-265. - -Stephen of Blois, 23, 99. - -Strabo, _cited_, 359. - -Suger, Minister of Louis VI., 382. - -Sully, Maurice de, 365-366. - -Syagrius, “Romanorum Rex,” 54. - - -Taillefer, the warrior, 138. - -Tancred, the “Very perfect gentle knight,” 23. - -Tapestry, the Bayeux, 110-115. - -Taurin, Saint, 89, 95. - -Temple Church, 110. - -Texier, Jean le, 207. - -Theobald or Thibaut, Count of Chartres, 202. - -Thérain valley, 341. - -Thermes, Roman Palace of the, 357. - -Thibaut, Count, of Anjou, 172. - -Thibaut, Count, of Chartres, 90. - -Thibaut le Tricheur, Count of Chartres, 205. - -Thibaut IV., Count of Troyes, 315. - -Thomas à Becket, St., 100; - at Sens, 300, 301. - -“Toillette de Duc Guillaume,” 114. - -Toulouse, Church of the Cordeliers, 292. - -Tour Beauregard, Saint-Lô, 129. - -Tour de la Chaîne La Rochelle, 289. - -Tour de la Lanterne, La Rochelle, 289. - -Tour de Vésone, Périgueux, 258-261. - -Tour St. Nicholas, La Rochelle, 286. - -Touraine, description of, 181-182. - -Tours-- - Angevin struggle for, 171-172. - Church of St. Gatien, 188-192, 337. - Church of St. Martin, 52. - Historical sketch, 183-188. - Rue des Halles, 184. - Tour Charlemagne, 187. - Tour de l’Horloge, 187. - -Toury, Cloister of, 321. - -Treaty of Troyes, 313-314. - -“Triforium,” description of term, 32. - -Troyes-- - Cathedral of St. Urbian, 74-75, 318-322. - Commerce and Fairs of, 315-319. - Historical sketch, 310-319. - Huguenot massacre, 314-315. - Treaty of Henry V., 313-314. - -Truce of God, 47; - preached in Normandy, 122-125. - - -Ursin, St., 99. - - -Valonges, fall of, 139. - -Vaurus, the bastard of, death of, 330. - -Vendôme-- - Abbey of La Trinité, 216. - Counts of, 215-216. - Loire at, 216-217. - -Venetian Colonies at Limoges, 266. - -Venice, St. Mark’s, style influences architecture of Saint Front, 262-266. - -Vercingetorix, 299. - -Verheilh, M. Félix de, 266. - -Vieil-Evreux, Roman Settlement, 89. - -_Villes bastide_, the, of Guyenne, 293-294. - -Vincent, St., Childebert’s Church, 372-375. - -Viollet-le-Duc, _cited_, 28, 41-45, 48-51, 265, 270-273, 302, 342; - panegyric on Chartres Cathedral, 211; - restorations in Notre Dame, 369. - -Vire, the, 130. - - -“Week of Battles,” 1871, the 156. - -Wells Cathedral, 75; - tomb of William de la Merche, 77. - -Westminster Abbey, 109; - tomb of Aymer de Valence, 77, 257. - -Whewell, _quoted_, 93, 94, 100, 110. - -William de la Merche, tomb at Wells, 77. - -William Longsword, 66, 105, 138. - -William of Poitiers, 116. - -William the Conqueror, 66; - connection with Caen, 117-126; - funeral at Caen, 120-122; - at Le Mans, 155; - struggle with Geoffrey the Hammer, 172; - at Moulins, 248-251. - -Wittich, General von, 207. - -Wolsey, Cardinal, the French alliance, 24. - - -Yonne River, 299; - at Sens, 301. - -Young, Arthur, account of the Guise tragedy, 199-200; - indignation of, 375; - Rouen, description of, _quoted_, 73. - -Yves, Bishop of Chartres, 370. - - - - * * * * * - - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -St. Front, Perigueux=> St. Front, Périgueux {pg x} - -has gazed up at the great buttressed hill, silhoutted=> has gazed up at -the great buttressed hill, silhouetted {pg 38} - -RUE DE L’HORLAGE, ROUEN=> RUE DE L’HORLOGE, ROUEN {pg 79} - -Charlottle Corday spent=> Charlotte Corday spent {pg 96} - -Another memory of the Conquerer in Caen=> Another memory of the -Conqueror in Caen {pg 122} - -CONTANCES=> COUTANCES {pg 141} - -THE SOUTH PORCH OF THE CATHEDRAL, CONTANCES=> THE SOUTH PORCH OF THE -CATHEDRAL, COUTANCES {pg 147} - -ST. PIERRE, CONTANCES=> ST. PIERRE, COUTANCES {pg 153} - -converted him to Christianty=> converted him to Christianity {pg 152} - -Goeffrey of Mayenne=> Geoffrey of Mayenne {pg 155} - -the Duke of Mecklenburg and Von der Taun=> the Duke of Mecklenburg and -Von der Tann {pg 161} - -If Le Mans marks the first stage from Normandy upon the southward road, -Angiers=> If Le Mans marks the first stage from Normandy upon the -southward road, Angers {pg 169} - -TOUR DE L’HORLAGE, TOURS=> TOUR DE L’HORLOGE, TOURS {pg 185} - -Tour de la Chaine=> Tour de la Chaîne {pg 286} - -salon of the Hôtel Rambouillet=> salon of the Hotel Rambouillet {pg 333} - -was vested in the spiritul power=> was vested in the spiritual power {pg -343} - -The beseiging army of Charles the Bold=> The besieging army of Charles -the Bold {pg 346} - -leaving Charles at Compiégne=> leaving Charles at Compiègne {pg 353} - -and indeed the eccleciastical=> and indeed the ecclesiastical {pg 360} - -Archibishop Maurice de Sully=> Archbishop Maurice de Sully {pg 366} - -“Manned d’Archéologie Française,”=> “Manuel d’Archéologie Française,” -{pg 388} - -Tour Charlemange, 187=> Tour Charlemange, 187 {pg 395} - -La Beuriere quarter of Boulogne, 16.=> La Beurière quarter of Boulogne, -16. {index} - -Louis le Debonnair, 57.=> Louis le Débonnair, 57. {index} - -Orleans=> Orléans {pg x, 71, 390} - -“Precieuses,” the, 333.=> “Précieuses,” the, 333. {index} - -Radégonde, Saint, 274.=> Radegonde, Saint, 274. {index} - -Saint-Emilion=> Saint-Émilion {index} - -PERIGUEUX=> PÉRIGUEUX {pg 13, 258. 265} - -Lancelot, M., discovery regarding the Bayeaux tapestry, 113-114.=> -Lancelot, M., discovery regarding the Bayeux tapestry, 113-114. {index} - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Cathedral Cities of France, by -Herbert Marshall and Hester Marshall - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CITIES OF FRANCE *** - -***** This file should be named 40390-0.txt or 40390-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/3/9/40390/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This ebook was -produced from scanned images of public domain material at -Internet Archive.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - http://www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/40390-0.zip b/old/40390-0.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2d08387..0000000 --- a/old/40390-0.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/40390-8.txt b/old/40390-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 66ce8d9..0000000 --- a/old/40390-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7774 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cathedral Cities of France, by -Herbert Marshall and Hester Marshall - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Cathedral Cities of France - -Author: Herbert Marshall - Hester Marshall - -Release Date: August 1, 2012 [EBook #40390] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CITIES OF FRANCE *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This ebook was -produced from scanned images of public domain material at -Internet Archive.) - - - - - - - -[Certain typographical errors have been corrected (see list at the end -of this etext.). Except for a few normalizations, the spelling of French -words and names has not been corrected, but left as the writer wrote -them.] - - - - -CATHEDRAL CITIES OF FRANCE - -[Illustration: LON, VIEW FROM THE PLAIN] - - - - -CATHEDRAL CITIES - -OF FRANCE - -BY - -HERBERT MARSHALL, R.W.S. - -AND - -HESTER MARSHALL - -WITH SIXTY ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR - -BY HERBERT MARSHALL, R.W.S. - -[Illustration] - -TORONTO - -THE MUSSON BOOK CO., Limited - -1907 - -COPYRIGHT, 1907, BY -DODD, MEAD & COMPANY -_Published September, 1907_ - - - - -NOTE - - -The following chapters are the result of notes put together during -summers spent in France in the course of the last five years. They are -not intended to mark out any particular geographical scheme, though -considered as isolated suggestions they may possibly prove useful to the -intending traveller; nor do they aim at covering all the Cathedral -cities of France. - -The authors are indebted for much valuable help from the following -books: Viollet-le-Duc's "Dictionnaire de l'Architecture"; Mr. Phen -Spiers's "Architecture East and West"; Mr. Francis Bond's "Gothic -Architecture in England"; Mr. Henry James's "Little Tour in France"; Mr. -Cecil Headlam's "Story of Chartres"; Freeman's "History of the Norman -Conquest" and "Sketches of French Travel"; Dr. Whewell's "Notes on a -Tour in Picardy and Normandy"; M. Guilhermy's "Itineraire archologique -de Paris"; M. Hoffbauer's "Paris travers les ages"; M. Enlart's -"Architecture Rligieuse"; Mr. Walter Lonergan's "Historic Churches of -Paris"; the "Chronicles" of Froissart and Monstrelet; and to the letters -in _The Times_ of its war correspondent, 1870 and 1871. - -H. M. M. and H. M. - - - - -CONTENTS - - -CHAPTER PAGE - -I A FRENCH CATHEDRAL CITY 1 - -II BOULOGNE TO AMIENS 15 - -III LON, RHEIMS, AND SOISSONS 38 - -IV ROUEN 62 - -V EVREUX AND LISIEUX 88 - -VI BAYEUX 104 - -VII ST. L AND COUTANCES 128 - -VIII LE MANS 151 - -IX ANGERS 169 - -X TOURS AND BLOIS 181 - -XI CHARTRES 201 - -XII ORLANS, BOURGES, AND NEVERS 218 - -XIII MOULINS, LIMOGES, AND PRIGUEUX 245 - -XIV ANGOULME AND POITIERS 267 - -XV LA ROCHELLE AND BORDEAUX 281 - -XVI SENS, AUXERRE, AND TROYES 299 - -XVII MEAUX, SENLIS, AND BEAUVAIS 324 - -XVIII PARIS AND SOME OF ITS CHURCHES 348 - -INDEX 385 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - -Lon: view from the plain _Frontispiece_ - -St. Martin, Lon _Facing Page_ 2 - -The Quayside, Amiens " " 6 - -A Street in Perigueux " " 10 - -The Porte Gayole, Boulogne " " 16 - -Abbeville " " 24 - -The Place Vogel, Amiens " " 28 - -Evening on the Somme at Amiens " " 32 - -The Ramparts, Lon " " 42 - -Lon from the Boulevards " " 48 - -Rheims " " 54 - -Soissons " " 58 - -Rouen from the River " " 68 - -Rue de l'Horloge, Rouen " " 78 - -Rue St. Romain, Rouen " " 84 - -Evreux " " 90 - -The Towers of Evreux " " 96 - -St. Jacques, Lisieux " " 100 - -A Street Corner, Bayeux " " 110 - -Bayeux from the Meadows " " 122 - -St. L " " 130 - -The Cathedral Front, St. L " " 134 - -Coutances " " 140 - -The South Porch of the Cathedral, Coutances " " 146 - -St. Pierre, Coutances " " 152 - -Le Mans " " 158 - -Ntre Dame de la Coture, Le Mans " " 164 - -Angers " " 176 - -Tour de l'Horloge, Tours " " 184 - -St. Gatieu, Tours " " 188 - -Blois " " 194 - -Chartres from the North " " 202 - -Chartres " " 208 - -Rue de la Porte Guillaume, Chartres " " 212 - -Orlans " " 220 - -The House of Jacques Coeur, Bourges " " 224 - -Bourges " " 228 - -The Muse Cujas, Bourges " " 232 - -The Htel-de-Ville, Nevers " " 236 - -The Port du Croux, Nevers " " 240 - -Moulins " " 248 - -Limoges " " 254 - -Perigueux from the River " " 258 - -St. Front, Prigueux " " 262 - -Angoulme " " 270 - -Poitiers " " 274 - -Entrance to the Harbour, La Rochelle " " 282 - -The Harbour of La Rochelle " " 286 - -Bordeaux " " 294 - -Sens " " 302 - -St. Germain, Auxerre " " 306 - -The Bridge and Cathedral, Auxerre " " 310 - -A Street in Troyes " " 316 - -Meaux " " 326 - -The Old Mills at Meaux " " 330 - -Senlis " " 338 - -The Pont Marie, Paris " " 350 - -Ntre Dame, Paris " " 366 - -St. Germain des Prs, Paris " " 372 - -Pont St. Michel and Ste. Chapelle, Paris " " 378 - - - - -Chapter One - -A FRENCH CATHEDRAL CITY - - -There are in France to-day three distinct classes of cities--one might -even add, of cathedral cities--and as the bishopric is a dignity far -more usual in France than in England, "cathedral" may serve for the -present as a term inclusive of many towns. - -Firstly, there is the town whose local importance has remained unchanged -through a succession of centuries and an eventful history, which has -added a modern importance to that bequeathed to it by Time. Such towns -are Le Mans, Angers, Amiens and Rouen. Secondly, we find the towns whose -glory has departed, but who still preserve the outward semblance of that -glory, though they remind us in passing through them of a body without a -spirit, of an empty house, whose inhabitants are long dead and have left -behind them only the echoes of their past footsteps. These towns are a -picturesque group, and if we go back upon the centuries, we shall find -in them the centre of much that has made history for our modern eyes to -read. Look at Chartres and Bayeux, and Lon and Troyes, for embodiments -of this type. And lastly, there are the cities which exactly reverse the -foregoing state of affairs, and owe their growth to the kindly fostering -of a later age--an age which has learnt wisdom more quickly than its -predecessors, and has learnt, moreover, to love the whirr of engines and -the busy paths of commerce more than the safe keeping of ancient -monuments and the reading of history in the worn greyness of their -stones. Among these we may count Havre; but of this class it is more -difficult to find examples in France, although in England the north -country is thick with such mushroom cities. - -[Illustration: ST. MARTIN, LON] - -The history of the growth of one Gaulish town may easily serve for that -of another: later days decided its continued importance or its gradual -decay, as the case might be; and, as Freeman points out in his essay -upon French and English towns, "the map of Roman Gaul survives, with but -few and those simple changes in the ecclesiastical map of France down to -the great Revolution." Thus the history of these cities affected -themselves alone and not, to any great extent, the lands in which they -stood. It is a salient testimony to the lasting influence of ancient -Gaul that in most town-names some trace can be found of the old name, -either of the tribe which inhabited it, or of the territory belonging to -that tribe; and even under the Roman rule the Gallic forms did not -entirely disappear. Later, when the Franks came from the East, one would -suppose that they had names of their own for the conquered cities; but -if this were the case, these names have not come down to us--all of -which goes to show that the Frankish dominion, though it lasted on, and -gave to the land her ablest dynasty of kings, had no real rooted -influence in the country, and that France, as relating to ancient Gaul, -is a formal and almost an empty title. - -The Gallic cities owed their origin in the earliest times, naturally, to -their situation. The roving tribes, looking for a settlement, would -choose a camping ground either on a rocky hill, where they could safely -entrench themselves against a possible enemy, or on an island in the -midst of a river or marsh, where the surrounding fens would be an -efficient safeguard; and it speaks well for their choice, that when the -Romans came, skilled in the knowledge of war, offensive and defensive, -they did not destroy the settlements of the conquered tribes, but -rebuilt and fortified them according to the inimitable pattern of Rome, -not effacing but improving what was already to hand. Instead of the rude -Gallic huts, stately palaces rose up, with their marble baths; -aqueducts threw a succession of arches to the nearest water source, -theatres sloped up the hill-side, bridges crossed the river, and where -the grottoes of the Druidic or other primitive faiths had been, rose the -columns and friezes of splendid temples to Jupiter and Diana and Apollo. -Certainly it was a change for the better; and the appearance of many of -these towns under the Csars was probably much more imposing, though -perhaps less picturesque, than that which they presented in medival -days. In the later Roman era a new element introduces itself. From the -early Christian Church at Rome come missionary saints; not saints in -those days, but often the poorest and meanest of the brethren, charged -with a message to Gaul--Hilary, Martin, Dionysius, and the others. -Fierce conflicts follow, persecutions, burnings, martyrdoms--Dionysius -bears witness at Lutetia, Savinian and Potentian at Sens--and at last -the first church arises within the city, poor and meagre very often in -comparison with the huge pagan temples which it replaces, but loved and -venerated by the faithful few, and, best of all, the origin of the grand -cathedrals which are now the glory of France. "The votaries of the new -creed found a home within the walls of their seats of worship such as -the votaries of the elder creed had never found within theirs. And -around the church arose the dwellings of the bishop and his clergy, a -class of men destined to play no small part in the history of the land." -In the Christian city, then, we can begin to trace the beginnings of the -medival city. Other foundations sprang up in time within the walls--a -baptistery was built, as at Aix and Poitiers, to meet the needs of the -flocks of converts; other churches perpetuated the memory of some saint; -among the river meadows some royal or saintly founder saw a fitting spot -for a convent, and the abbey church arose, with its cloisters, -dormitories and refectories, and all the other fair buildings in which -the early brothers took such a loving pride. Then the bishop himself, -with his dignity growing as the Christian faith advanced, must be housed -as befitted a deputy of the Holy See; and forthwith sprang up those -lordly _vchs_ which even now serve to remind us of their ancient -beauty, though in some cases the civil arm has taken them over, and -converted them into htels de ville. Then came the barbarian inroads, -first of Vandals, Huns, Franks and the rest, next of Normans. These -attacked, but could not destroy, or even permanently harm, the position -of the city; and when the invaders had either gone their way or settled -down in the land, new elements of strength and importance were added to -the township: castles and strongholds were built up for the great men -who had taken possession of the chief cities, and the great civil or -feudal power of the dukes and counts began to exercise its jurisdiction -side by side with the old-established influence of the Church. Then, as -was notably the case at Le Mans and Troyes, the growing commercial -importance of a town would force a communal charter from the seigneur; a -burgher quarter would rise, quite as important as the quarter of the -nobles and the clergy, and thus the city would become trebly -strengthened, except, indeed, when, as was sometimes the case, one power -resented the fancied encroachments of the other and made war upon its -neighbours. - -[Illustration: THE QUAYSIDE, AMIENS] - -This power within itself was undoubtedly all to the advantage of the -city; but it was fatal to the unity of the kingdom, since it cut France -up into a mass of separate states, any one of which could, on the -occasion of a quarrel with the sovereign--and these quarrels were rather -the rule than the exception--fortify itself by means of its count, its -castle and its city walls, and defy the royal forces at its pleasure. -While cathedral cities in England were drawing closer and closer to the -king as their head, and thereby sinking their own strength in the unity -of the Crown, those in France were striving at a power apart from the -Crown, or, rather, striving to maintain a power which the Crown had -never yet been able to incorporate with itself. Thus a city of France -has a much more varied, a much more individual history than has the -sister city in England; a story less bound up as part of the great whole -of the history of the French kingdom, more concentrated within its own -walls, and therefore more tangible, if it be desired to study it -irrespective of that whole history. This, then, is the story of its -growth from almost pre-historic days. Whether, as an individual city, it -flourished after the Middle Ages had fortified and strengthened it, or -whether it fell into a state of quiet, picturesque and peaceful decay, -depended of course upon particular circumstances, but enough remains to -make of the general history of the French city a fascinating though -almost inexhaustible study, only surpassed by the study of each town in -its separate case. - -[Illustration: A STREET IN PRIGUEUX] - -Wars and revolutions have done their best to destroy what Time had -kindly tried to preserve for our delight; nevertheless, a cathedral town -in France of to-day is a very pleasant place, and offers exceptional -opportunity for the study of French life in almost every aspect. Our -business here, however, is with the cathedrals and the historical side -of the town, rather than with the lighter points of view; and such -things as every traveller will encounter in the course of his journeys, -the crowd outside the _cafs_, the weekly markets, the festivals, civil -and ecclesiastical, the quaint ways and speech of the peasant folk and -the _contretemps_ of hotel life have not only been described before, -times without number, but are such as will be fairly obvious to the -average observer, and, if he has never travelled before, will come all -the more as a pleasant surprise if he is left to find them out for -himself. If, as is more likely to be the case in this enlightened age, -he is an experienced traveller, he will know them all by heart, and -perhaps be inclined to cavil at having them set before him once again in -a light which could not pretend to any novelty. - - - - -Chapter Two - -BOULOGNE TO AMIENS - - -Boulogne is perhaps too near the starting point to arrest the -outward-bound traveller; he ranks it with Calais, Dieppe, and Havre, as -a place to be passed through as quickly as possible; and the splendid -train service to Paris naturally makes him hesitate to break his journey -at Boulogne. The general tendency in England is to despise the French -railway service, and some guide-books even now tell us that the average -speed of a French express is from thirty-five to forty-five miles an -hour, also that the trains invariably pass each other on the left-hand -side. As a matter of fact, all the main lines follow the same rule of -the road which obtains in England, and as to average speed, the run from -Calais to Paris equals, if it does not exceed, that of any long-distance -train-service in our own country, covering the distance of 185 miles at -the rate of fifty-six miles an hour. - -As a seaport and fishing centre, Boulogne is one of the most interesting -and important towns in France; and its fishing-boats sail out in great -numbers to the North Sea for the cod fishery along the north coast of -Scotland. When the herring fishing begins, Boulogne adds its contingent -to the fleets of Cornwall, to the luggers of the West Coast, and to the -cobbles of Whitby; and on the eve of the departure to the -fishing-ground, the fisherman's quarter, known as La Beurire, is alive -with the orgies of its sailor population. Dancing takes place on the -quays, and short entertainments are held in an improvised theatre, while -the rich brown-ochre sails of the splendid luggers and smacks are -stretched from deck to deck, forming an awning under which the owners -and captains meet together with their friends to wish success to the -undertaking of those who "go down to the sea in ships, and occupy their -business in great waters." - -Boulogne has the reputation of being the most Anglicised of French -towns, and was in years gone by often associated with the seamy side of -society. Many a stranger found here a convenient refuge, and Mr. -Deuceace and other of Thackeray's heroes enjoyed the sea breezes of -Boulogne after the mental strain of somewhat questionable financial -manoeuvres. - -[Illustration: THE PORTE GAYOLE, BOULOGNE] - -The city walls, restored in the sixteenth or seventeenth century, -date back to 1231, and were built on the foundations of the ancient town -of Bononia, generally identified with the Roman Gesoriacum, though not -on very reliable authority. From its position on the high grassy cliffs -of Picardy, guarding the little river Liane and looking out over the -waves to the white line of the English shore, Boulogne in other days had -an importance quite distinct from that which we now assign to it. The -Viking sailing down the English Channel saw it as one of the outposts of -a new and fair land open to the conquest of fire and sword, and in his -primitive fashion of asserting the mastery, destroyed the city on the -cliff. Later on, these ravages were made good under the rule of Rolf, -the "Ganger," by this time master of Neustria; the city was restored and -became the head of a countship, which dignity it retained until late in -the fifteenth century, when Louis XI. cast envious eyes upon it, and by -a stroke of craft approaching near to genius, united it to the crown of -France, declaring the Blessed Virgin to be patroness of the town and -himself her humble vassal, holding it under her suzerainty, which no man -in France dared to deny. Henry VIII. laid siege to Boulogne in 1544 and -gained it for England; but the day of English prestige in France had -gone by, and her right of possession was of very short duration, for in -the next reign Boulogne was given back to France, and Calais alone -remained to England of the spoils of the Hundred Years' War. - -Above the present town rises the monument known as the "Colonne de la -Grande Arme," a memorial of the first Napoleon's encampment at Boulogne -in 1804, and of his magnificent preparations for the invasion of -England. In the Chteau, which dates from the thirteenth century and is -now used as barracks, Napoleon III. was confined after his abortive -descent upon the town in 1840. It was the second of these desperate -attempts to dethrone the "constitutional king" Louis Philippe and -reinstate the Imperial dynasty. The expedition to Strasburg four years -before had at least been attended by this much success, that the young -aspirant was enthusiastically welcomed by the military portion of the -population; but the descent upon Boulogne, planned at the time when the -body of the first Emperor was being brought from St. Helena to Paris, -was a failure from first to last. The little band of conspirators, about -fifty in number, with their tame eagle--a symbol of the Imperial -power--landed at the port, but found no adherents, and within a few -hours of their landing were under arrest. Napoleon himself underwent -trial before the Chamber of Peers, and after a short imprisonment, as -we have seen, in the Chteau, was sent to the castle of Ham-sur-Somme. - -Three out of the four original gates of the ancient city still remain, -notably the Porte Gayole, the rooms in whose flanking towers were at one -time used as prisons. In the room above the gateway were formerly held -the meetings of the _Guyale_, a _runion_ of ancient associations of -merchants--what would now be called a chamber of commerce--and from this -the gate-house was called Porte Gayole. - -Of the cathedral at Boulogne it is difficult to speak with any -enthusiasm. It stands as a memorial of the Renaissance work of that -period which we should call early Victorian; but like so many modern -churches, it possesses an ancient crypt, part of which belongs to the -twelfth century, showing that the foundations at least are those of a -Gothic church, which was probably destroyed during the Revolution. - -On the journey to Amiens the train passes through Abbeville on the -Somme, a place some sixty years ago sacred to geologists, who, led by -the distinguished Boucher de Perthes, Prestwick and Evans, extracted -from the river bed and neighbouring peat and undisturbed gravels, not -only remains of beaver, bear, &c., but also innumerable hand-fashioned -flints and stone hatchets, and made the valley of the Somme up to Amiens -and St. Acheul classic ground to the antiquary and an object of -pilgrimage to the student of pre-historic man. - -In the early days of the Frank kings this quiet little town upon the -Somme had acquired enough importance for fortification, and its city -walls were built by Hugh Capet. Later on, after Peter the Hermit had -lifted up his voice in Europe, and every man who called himself a true -warrior turned his face eastward to Palestine, Abbeville was destined to -play her part in the affairs of the great world outside her walls, and -to share in the fortunes of that company of men whose watchword was -"Jerusalem." In the first two Crusades, when the crusading spirit was as -yet ardent and pure and had not degenerated into a desire for plunder -and rapine, the leaders met within the gates of Abbeville before setting -out to the Holy Land. - -One can well imagine the stir their presence made within the quiet -precincts of the little town, the excitement of the townfolk, the eager -crowding of the youth of the place around the standards of these great -chiefs, Godfrey de Bouillon, destined to become king of Jerusalem; dark, -passionate Robert of Normandy, son of the Conqueror; Hugh of -Vermandois, brother to the King of France; Stephen of Blois; Raymond of -Toulouse; Robert of Flanders, he who was called the "Sword and Lance of -the Christians"; and, lastly, Tancred the chivalrous, the very -embodiment of the spirit of the crusaders--and a "very perfect, gentle -knight." - -For nearly two hundred years the English ruled Abbeville. When, in 1272, -Eleanor of Castile was married to Prince Edward, afterwards Edward I., -the town was included in the estates which she brought to England as her -dowry; and being near the sea coast, and consequently within easy reach -of England, its new lords were able to retain their hold upon the city -even after the disastrous close of the Hundred Years' War had given -almost every English conquest back to France. Towards the end of the -fifteenth century it fell into the hands of the Burgundian party, but -the French crown finally reclaimed it in 1477. Since that time it has -twice seen an international alliance concluded within its gates. In -1514, Anne of Brittany, the wife of Louis XII.--"Pater Patria"--died -without having an heir in the direct line, and her husband, unwilling -that the crown should go to Franois d'Angoulme, determined to take -another wife, and made advances to Henry VIII. for the hand of his -beautiful sister, Mary Tudor; and after the negotiations were completed, -they were married at Abbeville. As far as Louis's purpose went, however, -the marriage was a failure, as the King died a few months later, and the -Duc d'Angoulme, his son-in-law, ascended his throne as Franois Ier. -To his reign belongs the second alliance in the history of Abbeville, -the pact signed between the King of France and Cardinal Wolsey, on -behalf of Henry VIII., against the common enemy, Charles V.--a figure so -commanding, so infinitely greater than his contemporaries, that beside -him the brilliancy of Franois, the gallantry of Henry, and the pomp and -magnificence of his favourite Wolsey, seemed entirely eclipsed, and the -three men appear almost as puppets, unstable and vacillating, now the -closest of friends, and now the bitterest of enemies. - -Abbeville still maintains many of the old picturesque landmarks which -made it a favourite sketching ground for Prout and for Ruskin. The -market-place is surrounded by a number of houses with high pitched -gables, coloured in various tints of white, grey and pale green. Some -beautiful drawings by Ruskin, executed in pencil and tint, which have -lately been exhibited to the public, bear testimony to its -picturesqueness, of which a great deal still remains in the side -streets and along the river front. - -[Illustration: ABBEVILLE] - -The church of St. Wolfran is late Flamboyant, and is looked upon by -Ruskin as "a wonderful proof of the fearlessness of a living -architecture," for, say what one will of it, that Flamboyant of France, -however morbid, was as vivid and intense in its imagination as ever any -phase of mortal mind. The nave consists of bays having a high clerestory -and a triforium screened by rich sixteenth century carving. The ribs of -the vaulting fall sheer down without imposts or break of any kind. The -low chancel and eastern termination of the church are unworthy of the -splendid carving of the western faade. - -The approach to Amiens offers no _coup d'oeil_ of clustering towers or -spires such as an English or Norman cathedral city usually gives us, and -the Cathedral itself is hidden as we pass into the heart of the town -along the Rue des Trois Cailloux, a street which is said to follow the -alignment of the old city walls. Ruskin advises the traveller, however -short his time may be, to devote it, not to the contemplation of arches -and piers and coloured glass, but to the woodwork of the chancel, which -he considers the most beautiful carpenter's work of the Flamboyant -period. Note should be taken of two windows in the Chapel of the -Cardinal de la Grange, built about 1375. These are very interesting as -foreshadowing in their detail that style of architecture--the -Flamboyant--which obtained in France in the fifteenth century and was -contemporaneous with the English Perpendicular. - -The two western towers look little more than heavily built buttresses, -and as towers are not very appropriate in design, being not square, but -oblong in plan. They rise little above the ridge line of the nave, whose -crossing with the transepts is marked by a beautiful _flche_, which -Ruskin, however, describes as "merely the caprice of a village -carpenter." As he further declares, the Cathedral of Amiens is "in -dignity inferior to Chartres, in sublimity to Beauvais, in decorative -splendour to Rheims, and in loveliness of figure sculpture to Bourges," -yet it fully deserves the name given to it by Viollet-le-Duc--"The -Parthenon of Gothic architecture." - -[Illustration: THE PLACE VOGEL, AMIENS] - -The height of the nave and aisles is, according to Mr. Francis Bond in -his book "Gothic Architecture in England," respectively nearly three -times their span, and the vastness of the fenestration is very striking, -particularly in the clerestory, through whose lower mouldings the -triforium is negotiated, thus dividing each bay into two storeys, -clerestory and pier arch, instead of into three, clerestory triforium -and pier arch. This gives the effect after which the French architect -strove: one vast blaze of light and colour through the upper windows, -coming not only from the clerestory, but from the glazed triforium also; -the magnificent deep blue glass typifying the splendour of the heavens. -On the other hand, in a sunny clime, builders cared less for light, and -preferred the effect of a blind triforium which throws the choir below -into gloomy and mysterious shadow. Thus we see that upon the design of -the triforium depends to a very great extent the effect of the light and -shade of the interior of a great church. - -Once, being personally conducted by the dean over one of the cathedrals -of the west of England, the writer was suddenly called upon to give the -derivation of "triforium." The word is applied to the ambulatory or -passage, screened by an arcade, which runs between the pier arches and -clerestory windows, and is considered to refer to the three openings, or -spaces, _trin fores_, into which the arcading was sometimes divided. It -probably has nothing to do with openings in multiples of three, nor with -a Latinised form of "thoroughfare," as suggested in Parker's Glossary, -although the main idea is that of a passage running round the inside of -a church, either as at Westminster, in the form of an ambulatory -chamber, or of a gallery pierced through the main walls, from whence the -structure can be inspected without the trouble of using ladders or -erecting scaffolding. M. Enlart in his "Manuel d'Archologie Franaise," -derives the word from a French adjective "trifore," or "trifoire," -through the Latin "transforatus," a passage pierced through the -thickness of the wall; and this idea of a passage-way is certainly -suggested by an old writer, Gervase, who, in his description of the new -Cathedral of Canterbury, rebuilt after the fire, alludes to the -increased number of passages round the church under the word "triforia." -"Ibi triforium unum, hic duo in choro, et in al ecclesi tercium." - -On the north side of the Cathedral flows the Somme, and there is perhaps -no better means of realising the great height and mass of the building -than by walking along the river banks, whence we see the old houses, -great and small, rise tier above tier under the quiet grey outline of -this "giant in repose." - -[Illustration: EVENING ON THE SOMME AT AMIENS] - -In an extract from his private diary Ruskin gives the following -description of this walk along the river, showing it in an aspect at -once squalid and picturesque: "Amiens, May 11th.--I had a happy walk -here this afternoon, down among the branching currents of the Somme: it -divides into five or six, shallow, green, and not over-wholesome; -some quite narrow and foul, running beneath clusters of fearful houses, -reeling masses of rotten timber; and a few mere stumps of pollard willow -sticking out of the banks of soft mud, only retained in shape of bank by -being shored up with timbers; and boats like paper boats, nearly as thin -at least, for the costermongers to paddle about in among the weeds, the -water soaking through the lath bottoms, and floating the dead leaves -from the vegetable baskets with which they were loaded. Miserable little -back yards, opening to the water, with steep stone steps down to it, and -little platforms for the ducks; and separate duck staircases, composed -of a sloping board with cross bits of wood leading to the ducks' doors; -and sometimes a flower-pot or two on them, or even a flower--one group, -of wall-flowers and geraniums, curiously vivid, being seen against the -darkness of a dyer's backyard, who had been dyeing black, and all was -black in his yard but the flowers, and they fiery and pure; the water by -no means so, but still working its way steadily over the weeds, until it -narrowed into a current strong enough to turn two or three windmills, -one working against the side of an old Flamboyant Gothic church, whose -richly traceried buttresses sloped down into the filthy stream; all -exquisitely picturesque, and no less miserable. We delight in seeing -the figures in these boats, pushing them about the bits of blue water, -in Prout's drawings; but as I looked to-day at the unhealthy face and -melancholy mien of the man in the boat pushing his load of peat along -the ditch, and of the people, men as well as women, who sat spinning -gloomily at the cottage doors, I could not help feeling how many persons -must pay for my picturesque subject and happy walk." - -In his "Miscellaneous Studies" Walter Pater says: "The builders of the -Church seem to have projected no very noticeable towers; though it is -conventional to regret their absence, especially with visitors from -England, where indeed cathedral and other towers are apt to be good and -really make their mark.... The great western towers are lost in the west -front, the grandest, perhaps the earliest, of its species--three -profound sculptured portals; a double gallery above, the upper gallery -carrying colossal images of twenty-two kings of the house of Judah, -ancestors of our Lady; then the great rose; above it the singers' -gallery, half marking the gable of the nave, and uniting at their -topmost storeys the twin, but not exactly equal or similar towers, oddly -oblong in plan as if meant to carry pyramids or spires. In most cases, -those early Pointed churches are entangled, here and there, by the -construction of the old round-arched style, the heavy, Norman or other, -Romanesque chapel or aisle, side by side, though in strange contrast, -with the soaring new Gothic nave or transept. But the older manner of -the round arch, the _plein-cintre_, Amiens has nowhere or almost -nowhere, a trace. The Pointed style, fully pronounced, but in all the -purity of its first period, found here its completest expression." - - - - -Chapter Three - -LON, RHEIMS AND SOISSONS - - -"We passed Lon in the dark," is a confession frequently made by -travellers. The Geneva express used to stop here for dinner, and during -the brief interval allowed for coffee and cigarettes many a traveller -has gazed up at the great buttressed hill, silhouetted against a -twilight sky, and wondered what manner of place it might be, -half-fortress, half-church, rising some three hundred and fifty feet out -of the plain with its crest of towers and houses. - -If Paris is the type of the island cities of Gaul, surely Lon may be -called the type of the hill cities. "Lon is the very pride of that -class of town which out of Gaulish hill-forts grew into Roman and -medival cities. None stands so proudly on its height; none has kept its -ancient character so little changed to our own day. The town still keeps -itself within the walls which fence in the hill-top, and whatever there -is of suburb has grown up at the foot, apart from the ancient city." - -Geologically, Lon is a limestone island in the denuded plain of -Soissonais and Barnais, and was a Celtic stronghold, as its name, a -contraction of _Laudunum_, shows, _dun_ standing for a hill fortress. -The town resembles in plan a blunt crescent, one horn of which is -occupied by the cathedral and citadel. An electric railway connects the -upper with the lower town, and a street from the market-place leads -through the Parvis to the very beautiful west faade of the church. -Cathedral, strictly speaking, it is no longer, for at Lon we have -another of those instances, always somewhat melancholy, of a deserted -bishopstool. Here it is almost more pathetic, when we remember that the -Bishop of Lon was second in importance only to the Archbishop of Rheims -himself, and, going back to the days of William Longsword, we find Lon -not only a bishopric, but a capital town--one of the great trio of -cities which ruled northern France and fought amongst themselves for the -chief mastery. There was the Duke of Paris in his capital; there was the -Duke of the Normans, an outsider who by force of arms had settled at -Rouen, and was a source of continual trembling to the Parisian duchy; -and there was the King of the Franks on the hill-top at Lon, nominally -suzerain of both the others, but really in daily fear lest one or other, -or both, should swoop down and storm his hill-fortress and add the -royal city of Lon to lands which in those days went to any man who -could get possession of them. - -Tradition says that St. Bat, who lived towards the close of the third -century, gathered his faithful together in a small chapel hewn out of -the rock, over which was built later on the cathedral church of Notre -Dame. This church, according to M. Daboval, seems to have been still in -existence in the fifth century, and was even then of sufficient -importance to attract thither many scholars who wished to study the Holy -Scriptures. In the twelfth century the cathedral, Bishop's palace, and -many other churches were burnt down, owing to communal troubles during -the bishopric of Gaudry. The present cathedral has one specially -distinctive feature: the east end, instead of being apsidal, follows the -English type of a square termination. There are other churches in the -neighbourhood built on a similar plan, which suggests the possibility of -English architects having been engaged in their construction. Lon is, -however, in one important feature, a variant from the common arrangement -in English churches of the eastern wall. It has there a great circular -window only, instead of the immense wall of glass usually adopted in -this country. The bays of the aisles are four-storied, in pairs, with -alternating piers, and of great beauty, the ribs of the vaulting -springing from clusters of light shafts. There is a large ambulatory -over the aisles, "which are built up in two stories, both of them -vaulted, and the upper vaulted aisle giving valuable abutment to the -clerestory wall." This internal arrangement appears to have been in -favour with the architects of the early French Gothic style. - -The twenty-eight side chapels are enclosed by some very lovely screens -of a later date, which, being erected during the latter part of the -sixteenth century, and of Renaissance design, are considered by the -ultra-Gothic mind to clash with the rest of the cathedral. Nevertheless -they are very beautiful in proportion and appropriateness, reticent in -design, and admirable in execution. - -Viollet-le-Duc, in his review of the cathedral of Lon, says that it has -a certain ring of democracy and is not of that religious aspect that -attaches to Chartres, Amiens, or Rheims. From the distance it has more -the appearance of a chteau than of a church: its nave is low when -compared with other Gothic naves, and its general outside appearance -shows evidence of something brutal and savage; and as far as its -colossal sculptures of animals, oxen and horses, which appear to guard -the upper parts of the towers, are concerned, they combine to give an -impression more of terror than of a religious sentiment. One does not -feel, as one regards Notre Dame de Lon, the stamp of an advanced -civilisation, as at Paris or at Amiens. Everything is rude and rough; it -is the monument of a people enterprising and energetic and full of great -virility. They are the same men as are seen building elsewhere in the -neighbourhood--a race of giants. - -As we approach Rheims from Paris, Lon, or Soissons, there is very -little sign of the vineyards which one associates with the champagne -country. The "vine-clad" hills lie to the south in the Epernay district. -Here to the north of the city we see only well-watered, well-timbered -country, lush meadow-lands, and even market-gardens, reminding us more -of the upper reaches of the Thames valley than of a wine-growing -country. - -Rheims chiefly recommends itself to the English mind as the place where -the kings of France were crowned. It would seem also as though the fact -of being crowned at Rheims was a patent of royalty, so to speak, to the -kings themselves, since, as Freeman remarks, their rights were never -disputed after their anointing with the _sainte ampoule_. "Every king of -the French crowned at Rheims," he says, "has been at once a Frenchman by -birth and the undisputed heir of the founder of the dynasty. Hugh and -his son Robert, neither of them born to royalty, were crowned, the one -at Noyon, the other at Orlans. Henry the Fourth, the one king whose -right was disputed, was crowned at Chartres." - -[Illustration: THE RAMPARTS, LON] - -Like Soissons, like Lon, like Bourges even, Rheims has carried down to -modern times the remains of that prestige which must always attach to a -royal city, even though the royalty have long ago departed from it. It -moreover brings us once again to the story of Joan the Maid. It is the -scene of her mission's fulfilment, of France's triumph, of the beginning -of that monarchy which Louis XI. established in its complete form and -which the later Bourbons wrecked; and here, when the crown is safe on -her king's head and Charles VII. has his own again, does Joan ask her -reward--permission to return to her flocks in the fields of Domrmy. And -but that this boon was too simple to grant, Joan's story might have -ended with this, her greatest triumph, instead of in the market-place at -Rouen. - -After the relief of Orlans, Joan had captured Jargeau and Beaugency, -and defeated the English in a great fight at Patay, in which Talbot, the -English leader, was taken prisoner. Having cleared these last obstacles -from Charles's path, she now set forth to tell him that all was ready -and to persuade him to make all speed to Rheims. Speed, however, was -what the Dauphin either could not or would not make; and it is always -the most unsatisfactory part of the history of Joan the Maid that when -she had pressed on, scarcely resting by night or day, to win back his -kingdom for him, Charles seemed in no hurry to enter upon his honours, -but preferred dawdling with his favourites in Touraine; and it was with -the greatest difficulty that he was persuaded to ride to Rheims with -Joan. Selfish indulgence, foolish favouritism, petty jealousies--were -such things as these to stand in the path from which the Maid had swept -all other barriers? Joan, however, was resolute. In hopes of rousing him -she withdrew her army into the country, and this retreat had the desired -effect. Charles the Laggard allowed himself to be brought into Rheims, -and on July 17 Joan, banner in hand, stood by his side in the cathedral -while the Archbishop anointed him with the holy oil and crowned him -Charles VII. of France. Here, so far as Rheims is concerned, the story -of Joan is at an end. - -Two papal councils were held at Rheims, in the days when the Gallican -Church was rising to its highest power, though it had not yet gone so -far as to resent the yoke of the Papacy. Pope Leo IX. in 1049 entered -the city in full state to consecrate for Abbot Heremas his newly-built -monastery of Saint Remi, and followed up the consecration by convoking -a vast synod composed of nearly every prelate in Europe, archbishops, -bishops, abbots, clergy, and laity from every quarter, who sat at Rheims -for six days; but their business seems to have been connected only with -the usual canonical laws. The later council, which took place in 1119 -and was presided over by Calixtus, appears to have occupied itself -chiefly with quarrels between Henry of England and Louis of France on -matters not even ecclesiastical. It further confirmed the Truce of God -which had been imposed at Caen sixty years before, and patched up a -peace between the two kings, after an interview between Henry and -Calixtus at Gisors, in which the English king took care to make his case -good before the Pope and to represent that all his incursions upon the -territory of Louis had been made solely from religious motives. - -Rheims boasts as one of its early bishops the saint Remigius, who in the -fifth century baptised Clovis here with great pomp, and who received -from heaven, as the legend has it, a flask of oil wherewith to anoint -his king before admitting him into the Church, with the stern -injunction, "Burn now that which thou hast worshipped and worship that -which thou hast burnt." This flask was preserved as one of the Church's -most precious relics until the general devastation at the time of the -Revolution, when it was broken to pieces by a fanatic. At the time of -the consecration of Charles X. it reappeared in a mysterious fashion, -and is now shown in the Trsor of the cathedral with various other -relics. - -It is a sad fact to record that the most beautiful cathedral faade ever -built is now almost entirely hidden by scaffolding necessary for the -restoration of the building; and, judging by the appearance of the -timbering and the paucity of workmen, it is not yesterday that the work -was commenced, nor is it by to-morrow that it will be completed. - -[Illustration: LON FROM THE BOULEVARDS] - -In the early part of the thirteenth century Robert de Coucy was -entrusted with the rebuilding of the cathedral after the complete -destruction of the early church by fire. He built it on a simple plan of -a vast choir, no transepts, and a rather narrow nave. "Cet difice a -toute la force de la Cathdral de Chartres, sans en avoir la lourdeur; -il runit enfin les veritables conditions de la beaut dans les arts, la -puissance et la grace; il est d'ailleurs construit en beaux materiaux, -savamment appareills, et l'on retrouve dans toutes ses parties un soin -et une recherche fort rares une epoque o l'on batissait avec une -grande rapidit et souvent avec des ressources -insuffisantes."--Viollet-le-Duc. The beautiful portals, "deep and -cavernous," record by their thousand sculptures, in a clear and -impressive manner, the creation of the world, the whole history of the -Old Testament, the life of our Saviour and the redemption of mankind, -and convey to all who pass by this great object-lesson of their faith. -The tympana of these porches are glazed instead of being filled in with -stone. This was done to guard against the possible breaking of the -doorway lintel, which, if large, might very well give way under the -weight of the superincumbent mass of stone. - -Mr. Bond, referring to the deeply recessed porches of the French -cathedrals--which, if we exclude the Galilees, find few analogues in the -English churches--considers them as lineal descendants of the ancient -narthex. "As a rule we did not care to develop the western doorways. The -reason may be that our churches are all comparatively low; to give west -doorways, therefore, any considerable elevation would be at the expense -of the western windows. We needed western light badly in our English -naves, especially in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and preferred -to develop the western window at the expense of the western doorway, -reaching in the end such a faade as that of St. George's, Windsor." - -The bays of the nave consist of large clerestory windows filled with -glorious deep blue glass, a small triforium and stilted pier arches; a -very short chancel of only two bays and chevet hardly gives room for the -priests and choristers, the sacrarium is therefore lengthened westwards -and projects into the transepts. - -To the south of the Cathedral lies the interesting Abbey Church of St. -Remi, built in the eleventh century. Many of the French cathedral towns -are fortunate in the possession of either an abbey or collegiate church, -which existed some two or three centuries before the cathedral itself -was built. At Nevers is the church of St. Etienne, at Evreux St. Taurin, -at Tours St. Martin. At Angers and other places the old Romanesque -basilicas are still to be found. Rheims has for its parent church the -basilica of St. Remi. The western towers are Romanesque, and one of them -has been left more or less unrestored; the interior has all the -impressiveness of the basilica design; the pier arcades and triforium of -the nave elevation occupy the whole space up to the springing of the -barrel vault, and pilasters are carried down to the pier capitals, where -they rest on quaint corbels of very early design. Like churches -constructed in the early days, St. Remi has double aisles on either side -of the nave; the choir is brought westwards to overlap the nave arches, -an arrangement often found in short chancelled churches; the east end is -periapsidal in plan, and the windows are filled with fine blue glass. -Ferguson does not give France the credit of having many fine Romanesque -churches sufficient to satisfy the splendid tastes of the twelfth and -thirteenth centuries, but he makes an exception in the case of St. Remi, -and declares it to be "a vast and noble basilica of the early part of -the eleventh century, presenting considerable points of similarity to -those of Burgundy." - -Rheims has enjoyed for a long time popularity amongst travellers. As far -back as a hundred and twenty years ago a writer, describing the town and -its hotel accommodation, says: "The streets are almost all broad, strait -and well built, equal in that respect to any I have seen; and the inn, -the Htel de Moulinet, is so large and well served as not to check the -emotions raised by agreeable objects, by giving an impulse to contrary -vibrations in the bosom of the traveller, which at inns in France is too -often the case.... We have about half a dozen real English dishes that -exceed anything in my opinion to be met with in France; by English -dishes I mean a turbot and lobster sauce, ham and chicken, a haunch of -venison, turkey and oysters, and after these there is an end of an -English table. It is an idle prejudice to class roast beef among them, -for there is not better beef in the world than at Paris.... The French -are cleaner in their persons, and the English in their houses." - - * * * * * - -To look at Soissons to-day, with its pleasant walks and modern houses, -few people would guess it to have played an important part in the -history of north-eastern France. Yet that pleasant, modern appearance is -itself a proof of what the town endured in earlier days. So fierce was -the struggle it had for existence, that the old Soissons has almost worn -itself out, and, seen from the outside at least, a new and prosperous -town would seem to have taken its place. It might well be called the -city of sieges, for few towns have suffered more in this respect. From -Roman days down to the Franco-Prussian war the place has seemed good and -desirable from soldiers and conquerors, and has had to pay penalty for -its splendid position on the Aisne. Both Csar and Napoleon recognised -its importance as a military station, though a stretch of eighteen -hundred years divided the Soissons of one general to the Soissons of the -other. Like Lon, it was for some time a royal seat; and it was here -that Clovis the Frank defeated Syagrius, "Romanorum Rex," in 486, and -turned a Roman into a Frankish kingdom, in which Soissons was for -some time the capital. It was in the Abbey of St. Mdard, which, except -for some subterranean buildings, is now destroyed, that Louis le -Dbonnair was twice imprisoned by his unnatural children; and on the -walls of one of these dungeons have been found some verses, apparently a -description of the unfortunate prisoner, but dating only from the -fifteenth century. - -[Illustration: RHEIMS] - -During the "Hundred Days" Soissons was twice taken and twice retaken in -the course of a month. Blcher laid siege to the town in 1814, and but -for a sudden surrender on the part of the governor, which gave it into -his hands for the time, it would probably have been annihilated by -Napoleon, who, as matters turned out, had not time to come up with the -Prussian Army. In 1870 another Prussian force entered the town under the -Duke of Mecklenburg, after a siege which closes the roll of Soissons' -struggles. - -On both occasions of our visiting Soissons, we came away with the -feeling that the interior of the Cathedral of Notre Dame was even more -impressive than that of Rheims. It is, indeed, a worthy rival to its -neighbouring sister church; the beautiful proportions of the nave, the -simplicity and purity of the carved capitals, the splendid glass, render -it one of the most beautiful cathedrals of France. There is a lovely -little chapel in the salle capitulaire at the west end, approached by a -cloister, early Gothic in design, with its vaulting supported by two -graceful columns, which reminds one of some of the chapter houses of our -English cathedrals. - -In the Place du Cloitre is a doorway into the Cathedral, with a graceful -pediment enclosing a high-springing Gothic tympanum, which is glazed. -The mouldings of the arch have alternating crocketted courses, and the -capitals are carved to represent vine leaves and grapes. It is not easy -to understand why so beautiful a porch should occupy so obscure a -position, unless it were in the early days some special entrance for the -bishops or for the canons. - -On the south side there is a Transition, semicircular chapel or apse, -with a roof lower than that of the rest of the Cathedral. A low -clerestory, with three lights, and a small triforium, whose base rakes -with the main triforium of the church, form the upper members of the -elevation. Below there is a graceful three-arched ambulatory, large and -open, spreading backwards over a vaulted chapel. The main arches, simple -and delicate in design, complete the whole bay. - -[Illustration: SOISSONS] - -Soissons was laid out on a plan which recalls the plan of Noyon. Its -south transept, as at Noyon, dating from the end of the twelfth -century, is rounded and flanked by a circular chapel. Although it is -doubtful whether the Cathedral of Soissons was built in the latter part -of the twelfth century, or only commenced at that time, it is certain -that the nave and choir have the distinct appearance of -thirteenth-century design. During this period, however, a kind of -uncertainty existed in the planning of the religious edifices. These -were constructed on a vast scale, and emancipated themselves from the -restricted Romanesque design in obedience to the religious movement -which declared itself during the reigns of Louis le Jeune and Philippe -Auguste, but the _cathedral_ type had not yet been created. The -requirements of the nascent ceremonial were not yet fulfilled. - -The once magnificent and now ruined Abbey of St. Jean des Vignes is -situated on the hill facing the entrance to the town from the station. -The west end only remains, surmounted by two towers with spires. "These -are a great ornament to the town, and were spared at the entreaty of the -citizens when the ruthless democrats destroyed the rest. The towers and -the portal are probably of the thirteenth century, the spires more -modern." They were much damaged in the Franco-Prussian war, when the -town was bombarded. - - - - -Chapter Four - -ROUEN - - -Rouen is a town with two faces, ancient and modern, and the face which -it apparently considers the most becoming is the modern one. The -ancient, historic face, which the town wore when Joan of Arc rode -through, is hidden away as though it were out of fashion, and it is to -be found, not in the broad streets, but in lanes, courts and alleys, -where the way grows narrow and the houses meet overhead. Rouen, the -_chef-lieu_ of a department and fourth on the list of French ports, -finds more important business on hand than dreaming itself back into the -past, and, sacrificing the old life to the new, or, rather, building up -a new life round the old, has made of itself a busy, thriving commercial -town on the banks of that river up which the beak-headed ships of Rolf -the Ganger sailed a thousand years ago to destroy and to conquer. But -the town's history is only put aside, not forgotten; indeed, there is -too much of it to forget. The records of Rouen go back before the Roman -era in Gaul; the Romans found it as Ratuma or Ratumacos, and then, -Romanising the name, as they did everything else, made it into -Rotomagus. Even in these early days it was a capital city, the -headquarters of the Veliocassian tribe, though not of primary -importance. Later, by the end of the third century A. D., we find it the -chief city of the province Lugdunensis Secunda, and presently an -archiepiscopal see, with an archbishop (now of course a saint) to guide -it in matters spiritual. - -Saint Mellon and his successors made a goodly record for about five -centuries. They were a thoroughgoing race, these early bishops of Rouen, -with the zeal of the Christian Fathers fresh upon them, and their very -names have a strong, vigorous sound: Avitian, Victrix, Godard, -Prtextat, Romain, Ouen, of whom the memory yet remains to Rouen in the -names of church, street and tower. After this long line of bishops came -a bad time for Rouen. These were the days when the lands to the -south-west seemed good and pleasant to the Vikings, the fierce Northmen -who in after days were to give their names to Normandy. England had -already been over-run with them; first by Jutes and Saxons, then by the -fiercer Danes, who in their turn pushed out the Saxons. Only a few miles -south of England was another land just as fair, with a river easily -navigable even to the great Northern ships, and thriving towns, rich and -full of booty for Northern plunderers. Rouen, peaceful and prosperous, -was yet dangerously near the sea, and the year 841 saw the dreaded prow -of Oger the Dane coming slowly up the Seine, scattering to right and -left all lesser craft, while the terrible war song, which England -already knew and feared, rose and fell upon the wind. This was only the -beginning. Long fiery years followed, years of ravages, bloodshed and -burning, when human laws were in abeyance and the only rule was that of -might. Thirty-five years after Oger's invasion came the famous Rolf the -Ganger, who laid waste the land anew, until, in 912, Charles the Simple -was forced to treat with him at Saint Clair-sur-Epte and to cede to him -the duchy of Neustria or Normandy. Rolf then embraced Christianity, and, -with the land in his possession, seemed determined to show the despised -Franks how a Northman could govern. In point of fact the dukedom, as -handed over by Charles, was practically represented by Rouen alone; that -is, Rouen apart from the Bessin and the Ctentin, and all the adjacent -lands which we now include under the name of Normandy. Further, it did -not really belong to Charles. Neustria was part of the great duchy of -Paris, and the cession of it to Rolf cut off Paris from all access to -the sea. But that Duke Robert had the sense to hold his tongue, probably -from fear of losing Paris as well, there might have been serious -results. As it was, Northern France fell into three divisions--the royal -city of Lon, the duchy of Paris, and the settlement of Rolf at Rouen. -In these three cities centres most of the subsequent history of -Normandy. - -As for what Rolf actually did for Rouen, that remains to be seen rather -from the after state of affairs. "The founder of the Rouen colony," -Freeman says, "is a great man who must be content to be judged in the -main by the results of his actions." Rolf is not in the least a vague or -shadowy personality, but it is noticeable how he has grown to us out of -a great tangle of myths and very little fact. All we have to go upon is -the not very authentic Roman de Rou, a few Norse legends, and sundry -brief allusions by later French writers, who class him, together with -all the Rouennais, under the contemptuous term Pirate. It was a -well-ordered, strong, self-dependent colony that he handed down to the -long line of his successors. These carried on bravely the traditions of -their founder and brought up a hardy race of fighters, although Rouen -itself was never thoroughly Teutonic, never at least since the very -early days of Rolf's colony. The religion, the language, and many of -the customs of the French at Lon were grafted on to the Northmen of -Rouen by their leader, and thus the town stood as much apart from the -rest of Neustria as from the Franks themselves. After the death of Rolf -and of his successor, William Longsword, Louis from beyond Sea, of the -race of Charlemagne, ruled at Lon, and cast envious eyes on Normandy, -even occupying Rouen for some time during the minority of Richard the -Fearless. But although Rouen was ultimately to become a town of France, -the time was not yet, and for the present her destiny was averted by an -outsider--Harold, King of Denmark, curiously surnamed Blue-tooth. He -determined to resist the encroachments of Louis, and finally made him -prisoner in the city where he had hoped to establish another capital. - -The Norman dukes only deteriorated as rulers when they joined to their -domain the crown of England, won by the hardiest and strongest of them -all. We remember the passionate, self-willed Robert, son of the -Conqueror, and John, called Lackland, that disgrace to the English -throne, the worst and likewise the last Norman duke, for the French -king, Philippe Auguste, confiscated Normandy, together with other -English possessions, and joined it to the crown of France, taking -possession of Rouen after a siege in 1204. From this point the history -of Rouen becomes the history of a French and not of a Norman town. As a -reward for its submission, Philippe Auguste presented the town with a -castle, of which one tower (the Tour Jeanne d'Arc) alone remains -standing. Two centuries later, Rouen was in danger from the English. -Henry V., during his brilliant campaign in northern France, was not -likely to leave to itself such an important place. In 1419 he set up his -cannon outside the walls, and proceeded to blockade the town, which -opened its gates to him after a six months' siege. Here he also built a -castle, which, in the hopefulness born of youth and victory, he intended -to use as a royal residence when all France should be at rest under his -firm rule. But before the conquest was completed, before he had time to -think about any residence other than his camp, came that last fatal -sickness at Vincennes, and the castle, which seemed, like all his -victories, so sure and so lasting, has been swept off the face of the -earth. The years after Henry's death, however, were significant ones for -Rouen, now in English hands, and in 1431 we come to the great point in -its history, the trial and burning of Joan of Arc in the market-place. - -[Illustration: ROUEN FROM THE RIVER] - -Captured near Compigne, Joan had been sent to Rouen by the bishop of -Beauvais. This was in March. The girl was examined fifteen or sixteen -times, a wearying repetition of question and answer, often going round -and round in a circle and never advancing any further. Joan's replies -were simple but firm. She persisted in her divine mission, and when -asked whether she was in a state of grace or of sin replied, "If I am -not in a state of grace, I hope God will make me so. How can I be in -much sin while the saints will visit me?" In May matters were delayed by -her illness, which was so serious that it seemed for a time as though -her enemies were to be defeated by death; but on her recovery learned -doctors were sent to her in prison to persuade her of her wrong attitude -of mind. Later came a warning from Cauchon, the bishop of Beauvais, to -the effect that he was about to have her brought forth and made the -object of a public sermon, after which, if she would recant, her safety -would be assured. Worn out with her trials, the poor girl declared her -submission and signed a recantation, for she saw that the end could not -but come soon. A penance of perpetual imprisonment was then imposed upon -her, and she submitted passively to the injunctions laid upon her; but -at her final abjuration she seemed to be overcome by a sudden access of -penitence towards the saints, and resumed her old attitude of -determination, declaring that all she had said in submission was said in -fear of being burned at the stake, of which she had a very natural -horror. After this her fate was sealed. Cauchon handed her over to the -secular arm, and a few hours later she was led to the stake in the old -market-place. It is needless to dwell upon this last scene, because it -is one of the stock dramatic occurrences in our history books, which -nearly always represent Joan of Arc as suffering trial, torment and -death, for the sake of her country with almost unnatural fortitude; but, -on the other hand, the more one reads about her, the more clear it -becomes that the heroism of the Maid of Orlans, though none the less -heroic, was a heroism of the simplest order, born of a pure heart, a -steady, straightforward faith in her mission, and only wavering at the -last from a very human and girlish horror of so infamous and dreadful a -death. And as for her judges, needlessly cruel though they were, yet, as -one writer points out, they were almost bound to condemn their prisoner. -To try her for sorcery and to burn her as a witch seems of course to our -modern eyes not merely horrible, but absurd. Cauchon and his followers, -however, did not live in an enlightened age; in their day the "Black -Art" was a thing to be dreaded above all others, and death seemed a -light thing in comparison with the putting down the power of the Evil -One. Others besides Joan of Arc, for generations before and generations -after, had died at the stake for reputed practice of magic; and in the -case of the Maid, "to acquit her would have been to accept her celestial -mission and place her, with some modern French historians, by the side, -nay, in the place, of the Messiah." The trial and burning of Joan cannot -be looked upon by the light of a modern world; they are of their time, -and that time was, above all things, a superstitious one. And only after -her death did France realise what the Domrmy peasant girl had done for -her country. The French monarchy, as Louis XI. established it, is -perhaps the best monument to her memory. After, and as some say because -of, Joan's death English prestige in Rouen began steadily to decline. -Two years afterwards, in 1433, came the death of John, Duke of Bedford, -brother of Henry V., perhaps the only man left with anything of Henry's -strength and singleness of purpose. Rouen held out against two attempts -at recapture on the part of Charles VII., but in 1449 Somerset was -forced to capitulate to a strong expedition, and the English left the -town for ever. - -By the middle of the next century we find Rouen in the thick of -religious troubles. In 1562 it was for six months in Huguenot hands, six -months of warfare, oppression and persecution of all Romanists within -the walls, with worse to follow; for when the Royalists recaptured the -town they repaid the Huguenots in their own coin, and revenged the -Catholic massacres with a terrible revenge. After this the Army of the -League held Rouen until, in 1596, Henry IV. of France effected an -entrance into the town. - -Nowadays the first view of Rouen is a smoky, dreary little station, -surrounded by _cochers_ and porters in linen blouses; but Arthur Young, -an agriculturist of the eighteenth century, visited the old city during -his travels, before the days of the "iron way," and he was more -fortunate in what he saw from his _diligence_: "The first view of Rouen -is sudden and striking; but the road doubling, in order to turn more -gently down the hill, presents from an elbow the finest view of a town I -have ever seen; the whole city, with all its churches and convents, and -its cathedral proudly rising in the midst, fills the vale. The river -presents one reach crossed by the bridge, and then, dividing into two -fine channels, forms a large island covered with wood; the rest of the -vale, full of verdure and cultivation, of gardens and habitations, -finish the scene, in perfect unison with the great city that forms the -capital feature." To get this view to-day one must climb the long, dusty -hill to the convent of Bon Secours, or rather, half-way only, since the -city, river and meadows, show their beauties just as well from a lower -point, and the modern convent and church upon the hilltop are not worth -a further climb. - -From the main street of the town the Cathedral is reached by the Rue de -la Grosse Horloge, which leads underneath the archway of the belfry. The -Tour St. Romain rises at the end of the street like a tall white guide, -and here, suddenly, we find ourselves face to face with the west faade -of Notre Dame. The remark made by an American traveller, that he found -Rome very much out of repair, is appropriate to many of the French -cathedrals. Scheduled as historic monuments, they receive annually a -dole from the Government towards maintenance and restoration, but so -miserable is this contribution, and so inadequate to the possibility of -early completion of the work, that a generation may pass away before the -scaffolding is finally removed. The west portal of Rouen is half covered -by a forest of timbering. Rheims suffers even more, and the same may be -said for Notre Dame at Evreux, St. Urbain at Troyes, and many other -cathedrals. Such glimpses, however, as we get of the west front of Rouen -show us its glory. Ruskin writing of it says: "It is the most exquisite -piece of pure Flamboyant work existing. There is not one cusp, one -finial, that is useless, not a stroke of the chisel is in vain; the -grace and luxuriance of it all are visible--sensible, rather, even to -the uninquiring eye; and all its minuteness does not diminish the -majesty, while it increases the mystery of the noble and unbroken -vault." - -Of the origin of this Flamboyant style a distinguished French writer, M. -Enlart, in a paper lately read before the Archological Institute of -Great Britain, has asserted that it is to be found not in France, but in -England; and specialising the west front of Rouen, he further states -that, in the arrangement of its large bay enclosing the rose window and -flanked by tiers of statues, it recalls absolutely the faades, earlier -in date, of the cathedrals of Wells, Salisbury and Lichfield. - -With one or two exceptions, viz., St. Urbain at Troyes and a chapel in -Amiens Cathedral, the Flamboyant style did not appear in France until -the last quarter of the fourteenth century, and when it had once taken -root, it maintained its integrity until the Renaissance, having the same -characteristics from one end of the country to the other. It was not the -evolution of any previous French style, but it derived its origin, as -above stated, from a style which existed in England a century before. -Roughly speaking, the features which distinguish the Flamboyant are, -first, the ogee arch which is typical of the style, then special systems -of vaulting, and flowing tracery of windows, forms of arches, "anse de -panier," &c., arch mouldings dying into piers without impost or capital, -and generally a love of vegetal and undulating decoration. This -"decorative caprice" reigned in France in the fifteenth century at a -time when the Perpendicular style became universal in England and had -completely driven out the ogee arch. - -The occupation of the greater part of France by the English in the -Hundred Years' War would naturally result in an English influence being -noticeable in its buildings, the contact of nations producing an -exchange of art as of commerce. The Flamboyant may therefore be said to -be the by-product of the Hundred Years' War. - -There is documentary evidence that both at Rouen and at Evreux the -foreign occupation did not interfere with the work going on at the -cathedrals; indeed, at Rouen, two canons of York were received with the -greatest courtesy by the chapter, and contributions were made by the -English towards the completion of the Cathedral. The domination of the -English was no hindrance to the progress of art in France, and as soon -as the latter had freed itself and realised its national unity, its -architects applied themselves heart and soul to the development of this -style which was "borrowed from the enemy." - -A long list can be made of buildings where the ogee arch and other -typical features obtained in England, from the end of the thirteenth to -the latter part of the fourteenth century, during which time no -parallels existed in France. One of the most ancient examples is Queen -Eleanor's Cross at Northampton (1291-1294), where Flamboyant features -show themselves. - -The tomb of William de la Merche at Wells (1302), Aymer de Valence at -Westminster (1323), and many other early fourteenth-century examples, -furnished by almost every cathedral, testify to the prevalence of the -passion for the ogee motive of decoration. These are given in detail by -M. Enlart as irrefragable proofs of the English origin of the Flamboyant -style. - -The interior of the Cathedral of Rouen is considered by Mr. Bond to be -curiously Romanesque in plan. Its nave bays are four-storied, an upper -and lower pier arch with small triforium and clerestory. The upper pier -arch might also be regarded as a triforium, for a passage-way runs along -the sill of the arch and is continued behind the main piers on an -elegant group of shafted corbels. These were originally intended to -support a vault of a lower aisle. The east end is more dignified and has -simpler factors, clerestory, triforium and pier arch. The glass is -magnificent, dating from the thirteenth century. - -[Illustration: RUE DE L'HORLOGE, ROUEN] - -South of the Cathedral a narrow street leads eventually to the river by -way of the _halles_, the Place Haute-Vieille-Tour and its sister of the -Basse-Vieille-Tour. The first square is a large open place, fenced round -with solid stone buildings, and having on its south side the Chapelle de -la Fierte Saint-Romain. With this monument, on which a flight of steps -leads up to a Renaissance chapel of six stages, is connected a curious -_privilge_ and legend, both of which have of course been recorded -before, but which are interesting enough to bear repetition. The charter -for this privilege was accorded to the chapter of Rouen Cathedral by -King Dagobert--he who founded the Abbey of Saint Denis. Each year, on -Ascension Day, the archbishop was empowered to release a man condemned -to death; and therefore every Ascension Day the good folk of Rouen -flocked into the streets to watch the procession of the Fierte -Saint-Romain. First came the solemn visit of the arm of the Church to -the arm of the Law, with the annual formal proclamation of the -privilege. Then every prison in the city must be searched, and every -prisoner put on oath and examined as to the cause of his imprisonment. -Finally the election of the favoured prisoner was put to the vote by -the chapter, his name sent to the Palais de Justice, and the paper duly -signed and sealed, after which the "messe du prisonnier" was celebrated -in the Salle des Pas-Perdus; and finally, the prisoner himself was -called before his lords, secular and spiritual, and formally examined; -he then confessed to the chaplain of Saint-Romain, his fetters were -removed, and he followed the archbishop to the Place Haute-Vieille-Tour, -where, in the Chapelle de la Fierte, a solemn service made him once more -a free man. A solemn and magnificent procession then bore him, crowned -with flowers, to the great thanksgiving Mass, after which he was free to -go whither he would. No less curious is the legend connected with the -ceremony. It is said that while Romain was bishop of Rouen a terrible -dragon laid waste all the land and devoured the inhabitants. - -No one dared to approach this monster, who was known as the Gargoyle, -until Saint Romain, armed only with his sanctity, set out to subdue it, -accompanied by a condemned criminal--the prototype of those who were -released on Holy Thursday--when the Gargoyle at once submitted and, with -the episcopal stole round its neck, was led by the prisoner to the -water's edge. The sequel does not reflect much credit upon the -bishop--at least, it seems rather of the nature of meanness to conjure -the beast into good nature and then to push it, all unawares, into the -river to drown. At the head of the Portail de la Calende, the north -porch of the Cathedral, stands the figure of Saint Romain, and under his -feet, with the stole round its neck, is the Gargoyle, craning its head -round to look into the face of the bishop with the expression of a very -hideous but very faithful dog--a most disarming expression if it be -meant to represent that worn by the Gargoyle before it was sent to its -death! In memory of this occurrence, the standard of the dragon was -borne in the processions at the _privilge_--banners similar to those of -the dragons at Bayeux and Salisbury. The legend, however, appears to be -of later date than the festival, which is mentioned certainly as early -as the twelfth century, and continued to delight the Rouennais as late -as 1790. - -The Abbey Church of St. Ouen is placed at the head of the collegiate -churches of France so far as its beauty and perfection of architecture -is concerned. In its proportion of nave, transepts and choir it is -considered to outshine Cologne, its great rival and contemporary. The -vast area of clerestory and glazed triforium recalls the interior -arrangement of Amiens. The triforium passage is worked between the lower -mullions of the windows, which are duplicated; but, as is pointed out -by Mr. Bond, care was taken that the inner and the outer tracery of the -windows should be different in pattern. Freeman says: "St. Ouen goes -further to unite the two forms of excellence"--external outline and -internal height--"than any other church, French or English," and states -that "St. Ouen is the loftiest church in the world that has a real -central tower." - -This central lantern is, according to Ferguson, a very noble feature and -appropriate to its position; unhappily it does not enjoy the admiration -of all writers: Ruskin condemns the false buttresses of the tower, which -he describes as merely a hollow crown, and declares that it needs no -more buttressing than does a basket. - -The third church of Rouen is that of St. Maclou. Its most noticeable -feature is the west end, which terminates in a very beautiful porch of -pentagonal form, and might be taken as another example of the rich -Flamboyant ornament seen in the western faade of the Cathedral. The -church itself is a complete specimen of its period, and dates from the -latter half of the fifteenth century. - -On the north side of the church, in the Rue Martainville, is the Atre -de St. Maclou, an old parish cemetery of the fifteenth century. There is -a small quadrangle, an old disused stone well with an iron crucifix in -the centre, and round all runs a cloister with two low stories, timbered -in black and white, with the famous "Danse Macabre" carved on the lower -beams. It is now used as a school for the poor children of Rouen, and on -working days is full of life--the life of a growing generation going on -side by side with the relics of a dead and half-forgotten past, for the -quaint seriousness of an old fifteenth-century builder has traced upon -the lintel a constant reminder of death and the grave--skulls, bones, -spades, and here and there a grim skeleton Death bearing away a human -figure in his arms. Many of the most beautiful figures are headless, not -from the ravages of a symbolic Death, but from those of a very real and -equally unsparing hand--the hand of the Revolution. - -During the Franco-Prussian War Rouen had unhappily to record its own -chapter of reverses, when the French determined to dislodge Manteuffel. -Faidherbe's army, together with the army of the Havre and General Roy's -army of the South, had planned out an admirable scheme, which, however, -was lacking in one essential, actual execution. Manteuffel was to be -routed and driven out of Rouen. The Prussians were equally confident of -success, and it is said that Manteuffel ordered his train to take him to -Amiens to be ready next day at twelve o'clock, by which time he felt -sure that he would have disposed of the enemy. - -[Illustration: RUE ST. ROMAIN, ROUEN] - -"The battle began before daylight, the pursuit lasted until after dark -and was resumed on the following morning; but the victory was virtually -gained when the first blow was struck, or, rather, the first shot fired. -Here and there, on the road along which they were driven, or on the -wooded heights by which the road is in many places commanded, they made -a desperate resistance, but it was throughout a question, in regard to -the French, of the rate of retreat, never a question of retreat and -advance." - - - - -Chapter Five - -EVREUX AND LISIEUX - - -We left Rouen by a "quick" train, that is, one which occupied itself in -stopping at every wayside station that caught its fancy. However, this -mattered little, as the road to Evreux runs through the most enchanting -country, and we had plenty of time to admire it. Wonderful woods stretch -over the slope of the hills and widen out into valleys scattered with -old timbered farm-houses, and here and there a chteau, seen amongst the -trees of its _proprit_; little poplar-shaded rivers run through the -fields, decked in holiday garlands of loosestrife and meadowsweet and -unmolested by any eager _pcheur_, whether boy with string and bent pin, -or more "compleat angler" with rod and line. The Seine, divested of -barge and steam tug, greets one by glimpses now and then; and after -leaving the tunnel before Elboeuf, it bursts suddenly into view--a -wide sweep of river, with the busy little town by its side. Then the -valley closes in all at once, and we run under the shadow of chalk -cliffs with steep scarped faces and deep caverns, into whose blackness -we may almost peer from the carriage window. Lastly comes a run up on to -high ground again; and there below, shut in by hills, with three towers -rising from its low roofs, is Evreux. The railway takes a great curve -from one side of the town to the other before running into the station, -so that the place passes in review before one; and it is an impressive -review, seen as we first saw it, in the light of a summer sundown, a -purple haze, "mystic, wonderful," hanging like a veil over the little -town. - -Besides the Cathedral and the bishop's palace, Evreux possesses little -that strikes one as being either very old or very new; a cheerful, clean -mediocrity prevails all through the town, which, nevertheless, dates -back to very early times. Remains of a Roman settlement have been -discovered some little distance away, at Vieil Evreux, then known as -Mediolanum Aulercolum, and afterwards as Eburovices, whence is derived -the modern name of Evreux. A bishopric was founded at Evreux by St. -Taurin, during the great movement towards Christianity in the fourth -century; later, Clovis destroyed the Roman encampment and founded a town -of his own, which in its turn was burnt and pillaged by the Northmen in -the ninth century. After this it probably shared the bounty of its -former scourge, Duke Rolf, and became part of the Norman duchy and a -Naboth's vineyard to Count Thibaut of Chartres, who did actually take -possession of it in 962, though Richard the Fearless must have reclaimed -the town, as he presented the "Comt d'Evreux," which was to pass later -into the family of Montfort l'Amaury, to one of his younger sons. Henry -I. set fire to Evreux for some mysterious reason, but with the full -consent of the bishop, who must have had peculiar ideas on the subject -of his pastoral duties; and in the reign of Coeur-de-Lion John -Lackland gave it up to the French Crown, and afterwards, filled with -remorse, or more probably with alarm, at the news that his brother was -returning from Palestine and might demand what had become of Evreux, -ordered a general massacre of the French garrison quartered there and -ran away himself, leaving his wretched English subjects to bear the -brunt of the French king's wrath when the story should come to his -knowledge. - -[Illustration: EVREUX] - -After several vicissitudes of this kind, Evreux was in 1404 finally -joined to the Crown of France, though it still seems to have been tossed -about in the most confusing way, and we hear of it as belonging now to -France, now to Navarre, then sold to the Darnley Stuarts and back again -to France; and so on until Napoleon, having divorced Josephine, -presented her out of his imperial bounty with a part of the Comt -d'Evreux as a compensation for her trials. The modern town, however, has -not at all the air of having been the plaything of kings and states. The -only noticeable traces of its ancient warfare are the machicolated walls -of the bishop's palace, and the moat below, running between the palace -and the Boulevard Chambaudin. The moat is now filled up by a -kitchen-garden--a striking example of how peace has succeeded war in -Evreux--but it is easy to imagine how it must have looked in the old -days; the dark, still water, the steep walls rising up to their turrets, -the treacherous machicolations, apparently ornamental but in reality -only too useful, and above it all the grey towers of Notre Dame. - -The interior of the Cathedral extends in date from the Romanesque to the -Renaissance period. The nave bays offer examples of what is known as -"skeleton construction"; they consist of a Romanesque pier arch (said to -be the remaining work of Lanfranc) surmounted by a large clerestory and -small glazed triforium; the clerestory wall, as Mr. Bond points out, is -so shallow that it "ceases to exist _qu_ wall." It is in some way -analogous to the choir of Gloucester in its "attenuated construction." -The lights are filled in with glass, apparently of the late fifteenth -century. As Whewell says, the transepts and part of the choir are most -remarkable and most ancient examples of the Flamboyant style. The choir, -burnt down in 1346, was restored in the second half of the fourteenth -and early fifteenth centuries; the transept was finished about 1450. The -English took possession of the town in 1418, but this did not in any way -hinder the work from being carried on. In 1422 Tchan le Boy was made -_matre de l'oeuvre_, and to him is attributed the Lantern Tower, -springing from a beautiful vaulted base. The _vitrail_ of the Saintes -Maries and its mouldings, probably designed by Le Boy, follows the -English type. - -Evreux is, according to Whewell, "a mixture of Flamboyant and -Renaissance. The Flamboyant dies down gradually into Italian, especially -in the series of wooden screens to the chapels round the choir, where -every sort of mixture is noticeable." In some of the glass and on the -outside panels of the west doors the artists have attempted to show -their knowledge of the newly-discovered science of perspective, but they -pay little regard to the vanishing point. On the north side, the windows -of the aisle, with high pediments cutting the balustrades, are very -beautiful examples of the prevailing style. The western towers "are to -be considered as Gothic conceptions expressed in classical phrases." - -In the far west of the town, at the end of the Rue Josephine, lies -Saint Taurin, the second church of Evreux, in its quiet little square, -screened by magnificent elm-trees, a square and solid-looking building, -with a good deal of work that is very interesting and undoubtedly -ancient. Originally the church formed part of a Benedictine Abbey -founded in 1026; an ancient crypt remains, built, as purports to be the -case with so many churches, round the tomb of the patron, Saint Taurin, -who in the fourth century brought Christianity into the town, and whose -story may be read in the fifteenth-century glass of the choir. His -relics are preserved in a wonderful carved casket of the thirteenth -century, which may be seen by the curious in the church treasury. In -three bays of the south nave the vaulting ends in some curious stone -carving in the form of grotesque heads, which belong to the sixteenth -century. - -"Once a cathedral, always a cathedral" was the theory which led us to -Lisieux _en route_ for Bayeux. It seemed almost as absurd that the great -church of St. Pierre should not be counted a cathedral as that St. -Etienne and the other churches of Caen should be churches and nothing -more. In this respect, indeed, Lisieux takes precedence of Caen, for -until the days of the Empire she had a bishopstool of her own, while -Caen never actually possessed the dignity of an episcopal see. - -Lisieux is one stage further on the high road between French Normandy -and Norman Normandy, and is some way over the Norman border; at Rouen, -at Evreux even, we were in France, but here all around us, as at Bayeux, -are signs and tokens of a land more closely akin to our own, and we feel -that we have at last reached Normandy proper. Lisieux, both for its -Cathedral and for itself, is full of interest. The general impression is -that of a bright little place with a great deal of life--the life of -shop and market--to be seen on all sides, but none of the modern -commercial spirit, such as dominates a place like Rouen. There is a very -medival air about Lisieux, and the old houses, of which there are -plenty, are to be found not in out-of-the-way alleys, but in the chief -streets. The Grande Rue has one magnificent specimen, now a boot-maker's -shop, opposite the Rue du Paradis; down at the bottom of the hill, in -the Rue de Caen, is a house where Charlotte Corday spent the night on -the way to Paris to fulfil her terrible mission, and the Rue aux Fvres, -where one seems to have walked straight into the Middle Ages, contains -the "Manoir de Franois Ier," a beautiful sixteenth-century house, -from whose name one would at least suppose that Franois once spent a -night there, whereas he probably never went near the place, and its -chief claim to the title lies in the abundance of carved salamanders -on the splendid house-front, and even these are mixed up with apes and -other grotesque creatures. - -[Illustration: THE TOWER OF EVREUX] - -The Church of St. Jacques stands almost at the top of the hill, between -the Rue St. Jacques and the March au Beurre, where most of the -straggling streets converge. It was built in the last years of the -fifteenth century, and is a fairly complete specimen of the French style -of that period, standing upon a long, wide flight of steps, with a -balustrade running completely round the building. The floor inside -follows the slope of the hill, and slants upwards from west to east. - -The church contains some half-effaced frescoes on the nave pillars, and -a very curious old painting on wood, representing the miraculous -translation of St. Ursin's relics to Lisieux in 1055. This picture hangs -in a chapel in the south aisle, dedicated to St. Antony of Padua, not in -St. Ursin's own chapel, which is on the other side of the nave. - -Lisieux looks like a town with a history, and, like most French towns, -goes back to Roman times, when it was known as Noviomagus or as Lexovii, -from the Gallic tribe which had settled there. Rolf obtained it as part -of his Norman duchy; Geoffrey Plantagenet and Stephen of Blois fought -over it and between them reduced the town to a terrible state of -famine, for which Henry II. of England tried to make amends by causing -his own marriage with Eleanor of Poitou to take place in the Cathedral. -Thomas Becket took refuge at Lisieux on one occasion and left behind -him some vestments, which are proudly displayed in the chapel of the -_Hospice_. - -During the Hundred Years' War and the religious quarrels two centuries -later, Lisieux shared the fate of other towns as regards sieges and -conflagrations; but after this we hear little of its history, and may -assume that it emerged from its trials much as we see it now--busy and -peaceful once more, with leisure to turn again to the old-world town -routine which makes the Lisieux of to-day. - -The interior of St. Pierre, according to Whewell, "bears a great -resemblance to Early English work, although the French square abacus is -still to be found here. The round abacus is noticeable in the arcades -under the windows of the choir, giving quite an English look to this -portion of the church." There is at the west end a large interior porch, -which is referred to by most writers on architecture. The two towers -vary in their openings, one having lancet lights and the other small -round-headed windows. The nave is large, consisting of eight bays, and -built, it is said, about 1160. The tympana of the choir triforium arches -are filled with plate tracery, quatrefoil and cusped. The most -beautiful interior elevation, however, is that of the north wall of the -transept. Here the three large upper lights remind one of the well-known -"Five Sisters" at York. The lower double-light window is deeply -recessed, with elegant clusters of engaged shafts supporting the -graceful mouldings round the opening. The transept also possesses an -eastern aisle, which is said to be a rarity in France. - -[Illustration: ST. JACQUES LISIEUX] - -The church itself is unfortunately situated in a corner of the _Place_, -and a large building which abuts on its north-west tower detracts -considerably from its beauty and importance. The south transept door -opens into the Rue du Paradis--a name which one is glad to see preserved -in the neighbourhood of French cathedrals. It may refer to a garden or -close which has been absorbed by surrounding buildings, or to a -closed-in porch, the upper stories of which have been used either as -libraries, or as lodgings for chantry-priests. - - - - -Chapter Six - -BAYEUX - - -We read of Bayeux--before going there--as a place where many went but -few stayed, because of the towns behind and before; memories of Caen and -Lisieux, expectations of Coutances and Saint-L, which dimmed the modest -light of little Bayeux. It is curious, however, that this should be the -case, when we remember how important was the position it held in the -history of medival Normandy. It was the chief town of the country known -as the Bessin, a district lying immediately to the west of Rolf's duchy -at Rouen, and the conquest of which was the next stage on his westward -road. One interesting point here is that the inhabitants of the Bessin, -even as far back as the later days of the Roman Empire, were not Celts -but Saxons--men of the same race as Rolf, who took possession of Bayeux -in 924, and established there a Danish settlement, which, as Freeman -says, was always a thorn in the side of the Celts, and provoked many -attacks from its Breton neighbours. Saxon and Dane made common cause -against the enemies both to the east and to the west; and thus at Bayeux -there grew up a strong Teutonic colony, without the Frankish element -which, as we have seen, worked such changes at Rouen. The old Norse -religion obtained here long after eastern Normandy had become Christian; -and the Bayeux colony bore much more affinity to the Danish settlements -in England than to that at Rouen, the nucleus of Normandy, which was -hardly Norman at all, whereas, as Freeman remarks, "the acquisition of -Bayeux gave Normandy all that created and preserved the genuine Norman -character." For this reason William Longsword chose that his son, -Richard the Fearless, should be brought up at Bayeux rather than at -Rouen--so that, living amongst his own people, he might in time come to -be not only Duke of Normandy, but also Duke of the Normans. - -The Bessin still preserves this ancient distinction, and both country -and inhabitants bear a great resemblance to those of England. Bayeux -itself is a quiet country town, built up one low hill and down -another--a town of long streets and grey-shuttered houses, possessing -three principal interests--the Cathedral, the Seminary Chapel and the -Tapestry. It is also the birthplace of Alain Chartier, minstrel and -court-poet to Charles VII., and author of that curious document, the -"Curiale," whose best praise lies in the fact that it was one of the -earliest books selected for publication by Caxton. It is a brilliant and -vivid picture of the court life of the time; and the story says of -Matre Alain that he intended it as an answer to a letter from his -brother Jean, enquiring whether he, too, could not find fame at court. -Certainly it looks as if the favoured brother wished to keep to himself -the good things of life, for although he paints in brilliant colours, -Alain does not spare the follies and vices of court life, and one cannot -help feeling that his object was to put the more obscure Jean "off the -scent." - -Little is known of the circumstances either of Chartier's birth or his -death, though of his actual life several records exist. He is known to -have been one of the most brilliant men of letters of his time, probably -rivalled only by Charles d'Orlans, and--since a court minstrel is -always a picturesque figure--he has come down to our times surrounded by -a certain halo of romance. His many writings, both in prose and verse, -are very little known to modern readers, though he had many disciples -among the men of his own time, and his "Brviaire des Nobles" was -considered such a standard for courtly manners that it was apportioned -out, so Jean de Masles tells us, into daily passages for the youth of -the court--that court of which Chartier knew every turn, every corner, -every glittering folly and every dark intrigue--to learn by heart. A -modern statue in his native town at the end of the Rue Gnral de Das -shows him in furred cap and flowing robe, a pen in one hand, and in the -other a sheaf of papers from which he is apparently declaiming some gay -rondel or pathetic ballad. - -His house in the Rue des Bouchers is also shown, with an inscription to -the effect that he was born there with his two brothers, Jean and -Guillaume; but it has now become a very small and dingy shop, and one -goes away with a feeling that a link with the past has been broken. But -although Chartier's house would scarcely be singled out as an ancient -landmark, one or two there are in the quiet grey line of the Bayeux -streets that seem to belong to a better time, a time when watchmen -walked the streets by night and armed men clattered down them by day: -and among these stands out the really beautiful gabled specimen at the -corner of the Rue St. Martin. Here cross-timbers, black and white, tall -gables and lattice windows call for our admiration on our road to the -Cathedral; and nearer the great church itself is the sixteenth-century -Maison du Gouverneur, and another "Maison d'Adam." It is curious how -often street and house names in France reverted in this way to our -common origin. In countless places do we find Maisons d'Adam (Eve -sometimes has a share in the patronage of the house), with their figures -of Adam, Eve and the Serpent; sometimes, as at Rouen, a whole street -bears the name of the Pre Adam. It would be interesting to know if this -is a cropping up of the Revolutionary _galit_--a wooden form of - - "When Adam delved and Eve span, - Who was then the gentleman?" - -If so, the idea is certainly before its time, since many of these houses -and streets were built, and presumably named, when the Revolution was as -yet in its cradle. - -The Lanterne des Morts, a quaint structure with a quaint title, raises a -perforated cone on the south-west of the Cathedral. This medival -lamp-post had it name from the fact that it was lighted whenever a -funeral procession passed through the town; and it must certainly have -added to the impressiveness of the scene, especially when, as was often -the case in old days, the burial took place in the dead of night, and -this red glowing beacon towered above the low roofs like a great funeral -torch as the chanting of the monks broke the stillness, and the sombre -figures with their burden moved into the church. - -Returning to the three principal attractions of Bayeux noticed above, -the Cathedral--the only church of importance--falls naturally into the -first place. Entering by one of the five beautiful gabled doorways, one -stands on a platform above the level of the nave floor. The standpoint -being thus raised, the length of the church is apparently enhanced. -There is a church in Rome and another at Modena where this _coup -d'oeil_ is effected by the street level being some twenty or thirty -steps above the nave. - -The bays of the nave, especially in their lower compartments, are very -remarkable. Above the twelfth-century round-headed pier arches, and -reaching to the very small triforium balustrade, the whole wall face is -decorated with beautiful diaper carving. This surface decoration is to -be found in Westminster Abbey, but not in the same varied richness as on -the walls and spandrils at Bayeux. On one of the bays the old corbels -which carried the organ in the thirteenth century still remain. The -clerestory windows are beautiful in proportion and constructed in -double planes. The spandrils and tracery of the choir arches show -examples of early plate tracery. - -In the treasury one of the most interesting pieces of furniture is a -large _armoire_ containing church vestments, and another example of -early joinery is to be found in the fine door in the south aisle. Here -huge planks, some eighteen feet in length, are fastened together by iron -bands and hinges, without framework of any kind. The two western towers, -together with the crypt, are said to be the only parts remaining of the -old church of Odo, brother of the Conqueror. - -We made two unsuccessful attempts to obtain entrance to the Seminary -Chapel; but as it is said to be a very beautiful specimen of early -Gothic, the short description given by Whewell may perhaps act as an -incentive to other visitors, and spur them on to greater importunity -than we used. He considers it to be "the most elegant and complete -example of the Early English style. The details resemble those of the -Temple Church in London, in the shafts, capitals, vaulting, &c. The -arrangement of the east end is remarkable, uniting as it does in a -considerable degree the effect of the polygonal apse and of the east -windows, having diverging vaulting but with eastern lights." - -[Illustration: A STREET CORNER, BAYEUX] - -At the present day it is upon the Tapestry that Bayeux bases its -chief claim to notoriety, and the first feeling is one of surprise if -not of disappointment on finding that it can hardly be reckoned as -tapestry at all. This impression, however, soon disappears when we come -to consider the interest and importance of the work, not merely as a -local but also as an historic monument. Many and fierce have been the -controversies as to its origin--all the more so from the fact that it -was not brought to light until (speaking relatively) within recent -times, so that little can be gained from history or tradition, or, -indeed, from anything beyond the internal evidence. The form of the -Tapestry is well known to all visitors of Bayeux (and without going so -far afield, a very accurate copy may be seen at the South Kensington -Museum)--a long, narrow piece of linen, embroidered in crewel work of -five different colours, setting forth the conquest of England by Duke -William. In 1724 M. Lancelot found a copy of some of the scenes among -the papers of the Intendant of Normandy, and concluding after a close -investigation that everything pointed to the work being contemporary -with the events depicted, communicated his discovery to the Acadmie -Franaise. Montfaucon carried on the investigation, and finally -discovered the original of Lancelot's copy in a length of tapestry which -was hung round the Cathedral at Bayeux on great festivals. The early -authorities seem to have entertained no doubt of its being contemporary, -but later accounts set forth theories so widely different from one -another, and in some cases so flatly contradictory, that it is -impossible to enter into them within a very limited space. Following the -authority of Freeman, who treats the subject in a very complete manner -in his "History of the Norman Conquest" (vol. iii. Appendix, note A), we -may assume that the "Toilette du Duc Guillaume," as it is called in an -ecclesiastical inventory at Bayeux of the fifteenth century, is -contemporary with the history of the Conqueror, but is more likely to -have been connected with Odo than with Queen Matilda. This theory is -supported by the prominence given in the various scenes to "Turold, -Vital, and Wadard, " who are mentioned in Domesday Book as vassals of the -bishop, but are in themselves quite unimportant, which would suggest -that the original interest of the Tapestry was intended to be a purely -local one, for the Bishop of Bayeux alone. Freeman thinks it possible -that the work may have been done in England. When Napoleon became First -Consul he sent for the tapestry from Bayeux, and displayed it in the -Louvre as an incentive to Frenchmen to conquer England as Duke William -had conquered it some seven centuries before. After this it returned to -Bayeux, and was formerly shown to the curious visitor rolled on a -windlass; but later days have treated it more reverently, and it is now -preserved under glass in a condition of colour and texture which, -considering its age and its adventures, it little short of marvellous. - -Side by side with that of the Conqueror, the other memory which Bayeux -calls up is undoubtedly that of the greatest bishop the little city ever -knew, who governed it during half a century of Normandy's most stirring -history. Odo's life-story stands out among those of the men of his time, -indeed, much as does the life-story of his half-brother, Duke William. -In an age when bishops wielded sword as well as mace, he outstripped his -contemporaries not only in ecclesiastical power, but in the highest of -temporal ambitions. Like Wolsey, he aimed at being Pope above all his -other goals. In the meantime Odo despised no stepping-stones to power. -He became Bishop of Bayeux in 1048; fought with William at Senlac, "in -full armour by the side of his brother and sovereign, as eager and ready -as William himself to plunge in wherever in the fight danger should -press most nearly," and in the following year, when fear of foreign -invasions called the new king back to Normandy, he was left in joint -command of England with Fitz-Osbern, and given the title of Earl of -Kent. Thus we see that Odo had two distinct provinces--a secular one in -England, a spiritual one in Normandy--and his rule seems to have -differed according to the province in which he found himself. As Earl of -Kent, the native chroniclers declare he was harsh, oppressive and -tyrannical; his followers were lawless, and were dreaded through his -territory. The chroniclers of Bayeux, however, show him up as a -munificent prelate, generous in giving, a patron of "learning and good -conversation, " and, above all, a benefactor to his see in that he -rebuilt the church where his flock worshipped, and where the crypt and -part of the western towers still bear witness of his work. William of -Poitiers, the chronicler of all that William did, extends his panegyrics -to Odo, and declares that he was appreciated and beloved both in -Normandy and England. But this probably results, Freeman points out, -from the immense admiration of William the chronicler for William the -duke, which would probably--so partial were historians in those -days--lead him to believe that not only was the Conqueror impeccable, -but his lieutenants also. - -Caen follows as a natural corollary to Bayeux, and once one has embarked -upon a journey in the Bessin and Calvados districts, it seems almost -invidious to stay in one town without paying a visit to the others, both -being so intimately bound up with the story of the Conqueror. - -The churches of Caen have never had any pretence to episcopal dignity, -and it is curious that this city, richer in great churches than any town -in Normandy, should never have been raised to a bishopric, more -especially considering the number of cathedral towns which beside such a -city as this rank as hardly more than large villages, and yet which, -because they possess one church of importance, must take precedence of -Caen and other bishopless cities. Apart from its ecclesiastical dignity, -however, Caen should be visited because it is a town both ancient and -beautiful, and in memory of the great duke, who, English sovereign -though he was, yet seems to come before us much more vividly in Normandy -than in England. It was the Conqueror who made Caen--perhaps not as it -is to-day, but at any rate as it was in the Middle Ages. Caen, or -Cadomum as the Normans found it, was a tiny parish lying on the -outskirts of the Bessin district, burnt probably by the first Norman -invaders, and likewise included in Rolf's conquests, but of too little -importance either to be harmed by the one or benefited by the other. -Then arose the discussion about William's marriage with Matilda, the -dispensation granted by the Pope for their breach of canonical law and -the conditions under which William might keep his wife--that the duke -and the duchess should each build an abbey church and foundation within -the town of Caen, that of William to serve for men, that of Matilda for -women; and forthwith the little town became a centre of attraction, -alive with workmen, visited no doubt from time to time by the duke and -duchess themselves in order that they might see how the work was going -forward. The Abbaye aux Dames was the first to be consecrated. Matilda -wished to hurry on the work, probably, as one writer says, from feminine -impatience to complete her task. The church finished under her auspices, -however, was too quickly erected to be more than a fragment, "simply so -much as was necessary for the devotions of the sisterhood, " and its real -completion belongs to a day later than the time of Matilda, though her -original plan was in all probability carried out to the end. William, -however, took his time over the building of his church, and watched it -to the finish. It was consecrated, with the exception of the two western -towers, by Lanfranc in 1077, and stands to-day, in its strength, -simplicity and majesty, a fitting and lasting memorial of the man who -ruled England and Normandy and kept them with hand of iron. - -"The church of William, vast in scale, bold and simple in its design, -disdaining ornament, but never sinking into rudeness, is indeed a church -worthy of its founder. The minster of Matilda, far richer even in its -earliest parts, smaller in size, more delicate in workmanship, has -nothing of the simplicity and grandeur and sense of proportion which -marks the work of her husband. The one is the expression in stone of the -imperial will of the conquering duke; the other breathes the true spirit -of his loving and faithful duchess." - -The foundation of the two great abbeys soon led to a growing population -outside their walls. Houses were built around the Trinit on the hilltop -and around Saint Etienne in the plain; various trades sprang up, we may -suppose, within the town; and a castle--always a patent of nobility to -any town--was built on the hill, where William might lodge during his -visits to Caen. These visits became more and more frequent until Caen -was elevated almost to the rank of a royal residence; and even when Duke -William became King of England, he found nothing in his new kingdom so -pleasant as the little city under the hill. He built walls all round the -town; he conceded to the inhabitants commercial privileges such as were -enjoyed by Rouen and other large cities, together with the right of -holding fairs, though the fairs of Caen never attained such celebrity as -did those at Troyes; and finally, it was through the streets of Caen -that his funeral train passed, bearing the Conqueror to his long rest -in the church which he had built in the city which he had loved. - -"The death of a king in those days came near to a break-up of all civil -society. Till a new king was chosen and crowned, there was no longer a -power in the land to protect or to chastise. All bonds were loosed; all -public authority was in abeyance; each man had to look to his own as -best he might." Thus is described the state of feudal England and feudal -Normandy after the death of the Conqueror at Rouen. A state of the -utmost confusion prevailed; and apparently quite as an afterthought, -masses were offered for the soul of him who so lately had kept all in so -strict an order. This confusion was not the outcome of any personal -disrespect to the dead king; it was simply a reaction consequent on the -removal of the one great headstone, the one great reliance of the realms -on both sides of the Channel. In the meantime the body of William was -borne to Caen to await burial. A Norman knight of the name of Herlwin -took upon himself the task of ordering funeral rites proper to the -degree of such a man, since neither kinsfolk nor servants seemed willing -to stir a finger. Once at Caen, however, the Conqueror's faithful -followers received their dead master with all the honour and respect -which they had shown to him while living. The procession started in full -pomp towards Saint Stephen's and was met by the Abbot Gilbert, his -clergy, and a number of laymen. The monks fell into file, the solemn -chant arose; but suddenly the orderly progress was arrested by an event -as startling as any in the lifetime of the great man they were burying. -As the crowds filled the streets, a fire broke out in one of the houses; -and as in the Middle Ages fires were easier to kindle and harder to -quench than in later days, the flames spread along from house to house, -till it seemed as though a sheet of fire were pursuing the Conqueror to -his grave. Soon only the monks remained of the great company that had -set out from the monastery, and they went on apparently as though -nothing had happened, whilst the clergy, the lay helpers and the rest of -the crowd dispersed to save their belongings from destruction, the dead -man forgotten in the very real and living present need. "$1 -$2 " - -At Saint Stephen's were waiting a goodly company of bishops, Lanfranc of -Canterbury, Odo of Bayeux, William's brother; Gilbert of Evreux, the -preacher; and Gilbert of Lisieux, learned in medicine; with Geoffroy de -Montbray, bishop of Coutances; and the saintly pupil of Lanfranc, Anselm -of Bec. The scene which followed is an interesting one. The funeral mass -was sung, the body being borne along the nave and chancel up to the -altar; then Gilbert of Lisieux spoke the funeral oration, setting forth, -as was the custom, the tale of William's battles and conquests, of his -glory in war and his firm rule in peace, of his defence of the Church -and his zeal against her enemies. "Pray, O people, that his sins may be -forgiven before God, and if he had sinned against you in anything, -forgive him that also yourselves." At the close of the oration all heads -turned towards Ascelin, the son of Arthur, as he stood forth, and -forbade the body to be buried in land which the Conqueror had wrested -from his father. "I ... claim the land; I challenge it as mine before -all men, and in the name of God I forbid that the body of the robber be -covered with my mould, or that he be buried within the bounds of mine -inheritance." Certainly here seemed some just impediment. An inquiry, -necessarily brief because of the time and place, was held, and Ascelin's -witness proved true; and then and there a sum was paid down to the -claimant. Thus the great abbey which he had built was not lawfully his -own until the day of his burial. - -[Illustration: BAYEUX FROM THE MEADOWS] - -Another memory of the Conqueror in Caen remains in the Truce of God -which he imposed upon the Seigneurs of Normandy. Comparing this "Trenga -Dei" with the Crusades, Freeman says: "The call to the Crusade fell in -with every temper of the times; the proclamation of the Truce of God -fell in with only one, and that its least powerful side. Good and bad -men alike were led by widely different motives to rush to the Holy War. -The men who endeavoured to obey the Truce of God must often have found -themselves the helpless victims of those who despised it." The Truce was -preached first in Aquitaine in 1054, and Normandy was almost the last -country to receive it. When it reached the north of France it was in a -somewhat different form to that in which it had started. The early -preachers began by denouncing all private warfare; but even in an age -quickly fired by enthusiasm for a new movement, and more especially for -a religious movement, obedience to this decree was found to be -impossible. Men had hated one another too long to leap suddenly into a -state of perpetual love; and the decree was modified, imposing -abstention from private quarrels from Wednesday evening to Monday -morning in each week. Even this seemed at first too much for the Norman -spirit--"the luxury of destruction was dear to the Norman mind"--but the -preaching of Bishops Richard and Hagano at length took effect, and at -Caen, in 1042, was convoked the famous Council which was formally to -receive the Truce, and command its observance all through the land. - -Since then more than eight centuries have gone by; and yet to-day no -place seems to breathe forth the spirit of the great duke as does Caen. -In the castle on the cliffs at Falaise he was born, at Rouen was his -seat and capital, at Bayeux his victories are preserved in a lasting -memorial; but at Caen he lived and lies buried, at Caen he built houses -and churches and city walls, and at Caen we may still think of him, not -as the usurper of Harold's throne, not as the oppressor of Hereward the -Saxon and the stern, uncompromising lord of the English, but as the hero -of the Normans, a figure more commanding even than the pioneer Rolf, and -one whose best praise lies in those memories of "le Conqurant" that -still haunt the Normandy of to-day. - -After William's death the history of Caen is practically the history of -every town in Northern France. He had provided it with a commerce of its -own, so that it might be strengthened from within, and he had fortified -it against assault from without; it fell into English hands, like its -neighbour cities, both under Edward III. and Henry V.; it was ravaged by -the terrible "Black Death" in the fourteenth century, and harassed by -the League wars and stirred up by the revolt of the "Nu-pieds" under -Louis XIII. - -Finally, we find the Girondist party flying from the "Convention" at -Paris and setting up an insurrection in the provinces, making Caen their -headquarters; and one more page from the awful book of the Revolution -shows us Charlotte Corday setting out from Caen, grim, ungirlish, filled -only with her dreadful purpose, down the long, white road to -Paris--which to her meant Marat. - - - - -Chapter Seven - -SAINT-L AND COUTANCES - - -In very early days there was in Northern Gaul a little city on a -hill-top, with a river running below, and this city was called Briovira, -after the name of the river Vire. But in Christian times a certain -bishop of Coutances, a native of Briovira, extended his pastoral -protection to his birthplace, and called it by his own name, Laudus, or -L, by which it is known to this day, although the bishopstool has no -longer a place there. Saint-L does not strike one, either at first -sight or afterwards, as being a cathedral city. The first view, from the -railway, is a very rural one, and from an artist's point of view the -place is more or less ideal, possessing as it does two important -qualifications of a "paintable" town--it has a river, and it stands on a -hill. Only the outskirts of Saint-L lie about the waterside; the real -town is higher up on the steep frowning cliff, and the Rue Torteron -straggles across the bridge and up the hill, and finally, by means of a -steep little alley, leads out into the Place Ferrier, where stands the -Cathedral. Here, too, the Saturday market is held, and then the -hill-top, usually quiet and deserted, blossoms into life, and the Rue -Torteron is all a-clatter with farmers' carts and the scurry of -_sabots_. The western half of the market-place is known as the "Place -des Beaux-Regards," and from it, as its name testifies, stretches a wide -view of the river, fields, and wooded hills beyond; here, also, is the -fountain, crowned by Leduc's graceful bronze peasant-girl, with -water-vessel poised easily over her shoulder. - -Saint-L was a Huguenot stronghold during the wars of the League, and -the cliff-face still retains a fragment of the old defences, the Tour -Beauregard, an ivy-covered ruin clinging to the rock, which probably -served as a watch-tower in times when the meadows of the Vire were not -so peaceful as they are to-day. - -The year 1575 saw the siege which the little town counts among the great -events of its history, when Colombires, the Huguenot, held out so -bravely against the Catholic army. Colombires had marched into Saint-L -some months before in order to place a garrison there in case of -assault, and the townspeople welcomed him almost as a protecting angel. -In the next year the enemy's forces marched up to the Vire under -Matignon, and demanded the surrender of the garrison. Colombires sent -back a defiant message in answer, and the enemy's guns were soon -thundering about the rocks above the river. Saint-L happens to be -guarded by water on three sides--on two by tributary streams, on the -third by the Vire itself, and this western side is further strengthened -by the steep precipice, falling sheer down to what is now the Basse -Ville. Matignon determined to take a bold line and attack the Tour -Beauregard as well as the Tour de la Rose, which stood in a more -approachable part. All day the artillery played upon the cliff-face, and -all day Colombires cheered on his men to the defence, when a breach at -the Tour Beauregard had considerably detracted from their strongest -position. At last the gallant leader, springing upon the ramparts, -braved the enemy's fire, and fell dead before their eyes rather than -suffer the indignity of surrender. When his inspiring presence was gone -from their midst the Huguenots seemed to lose heart; their defence -wavered, their fire became less fierce, and at the end the Catholics -stormed the rock and poured into the market-place. - -[Illustration: ST. L] - -It is interesting to note that during the siege, as at an earlier one at -Beauvais, the women of the town signalised themselves by the good -service they rendered, though it was certainly service of a -blood-thirsty order, since it consisted in pouring down the terrible -streams of boiling pitch and lead upon the heads of the besiegers; a -mode of defence, however, very often resorted to by those who did not -use firearms. - -Traces of Huguenot days can still be seen in the west front of the -Cathedral, which has evidently been defaced by some fanatical hand. The -irregularity of its porches gives to this faade a curious one-sided -appearance, that on the north having a round arch and the central and -southern arches being pointed. The two towers are of different periods. -In the seventeenth century, when the Cathedral was rebuilt, the -perforated stone spires were added, the architect finding his -inspiration in those at Bayeux and Caen. The best view of these is from -the Ville Basse, where they come remarkably well into the picture, -standing high above the grey roofs. - -Here the Cathedral-church is, as usual, the centre of all that there is -of antiquity in the town. There is one especially beautiful timber -house, known as the Maison Dieu, some little distance from the west -front; north and south of the church are various narrow streets--the Rue -de la Porte Dolle runs over the stream of the same name, and under a -curious old gateway tower; the Rue Henri Amiard leads to the precincts -of the Cathedral, the south flank and its outward trend being well seen -from here; but there is nothing very tangible in the way of antiquity, -and one has an impression that when the bishop departed from Saint-L he -must have taken with him the soul of the place. - -Notre Dame de Saint-L has a very unusual and original plan, widening -towards the east and adding another aisle to the north and south -ambulatories. On the north side is its chief curiosity, an outdoor -pulpit, built at the end of the fifteenth century and probably used by -Huguenot preachers, to whom a sermon was a sermon, whether preached -under a vaulted roof or the open sky. What strikes one most about the -interior of the church is its want of light. The nave is absolutely -unlighted, having neither triforium nor clerestory, and the aisles have -only one tier of large windows, whose glass is old and very fine, though -in most cases pieced together; the nave piers are massive, with a -cluster of three shafts; those of the choir are quite simple, and have -one noticeable feature, the absence of capitals, the vault mouldings -dying away into the pier. - -[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL FRONT ST. L] - -Like Saint-L, Coutances is a city built on a hill, and has therefore a -peculiar charm all its own. The steep hill rises very impressively -from the rolling country below, showing the Cathedral on the height, the -towers of St. Pierre and the grey houses and apple orchards on the lower -slope. As a town it has more to say for itself than Saint-L; small -though it is, in respect of the part it has played in the history of its -surroundings it can hold its own with many larger towns. Coutances on -its granite rock is the watch-tower of the flat marshy Ctentin. It -looks out to sea on the one side and over its subject towns on the -other; it has seen the sun flash on the winged helmets of the Danes, on -the spears of Englishmen of Agincourt, on the grim figures of the -Huguenot leaders in the days of the League, as each in their day marched -over the plains to Coutances for the sake of plunder, conquest and -religion. Even in Roman times it was of importance; the Gauls called it -Cosedia of the Unelli, but towards the end of the third century -Constantius Chlorus fortified the town and called it after his name, -which it bears at the present day--Constantius--Constance--Coutances. - -The son and successor of this Constantius was Constantine the Great, -from whose reign dates the spread of Christianity over Western Europe; -and the Ctentin, as an old saying goes, now found itself divided -between Saint Martin and Sainte Maria. Churches were built all over the -land; bishops--every one a saint in these early days--followed the light -of St. Augustine in England, and journeyed about the country making -conversions and working miracles. - -In the fifth century Coutances received its first great church, the -basilica of St. Eureptiolus, built, according to local tradition, upon -the foundations of a pagan temple. Later on, Norman invaders did their -best to undo the good work of the Christian bishops, and we hear that -the bishops of Coutances in particular were compelled to take refuge in -Rouen for a century and a half, until the peninsula finally passed into -the hands of William Longsword in 931, and for a time the churches had -peace. - -The barons of the Ctentin played a considerable part in the Norman -Conquest of England, being among William's most loyal supporters. -Taillefer, the famous warrior at the battle of Senlac, the seigneurs of -Pommeraye, Blainville, Pierrepont, all kept up the honour of Coutances -in the lands across the water, as well as Bishop de Montbray, who, like -Odo of Bayeux, held the office of a bishop in his own country and of a -feudal lord in England. History has it on record that he held no less -than two hundred and eighty fiefs in the conquered country, besides the -lands which belonged to his ecclesiastical jurisdiction in the -Ctentin. After the death of the Conqueror various pretenders to the -dukedom of Normandy arose, and Coutances suffered from the local wars, -falling into the hands of Fulk of Anjou and being retaken by Henry I., -and to complete the harassed state of the Ctentin a dreadful famine -spread over the district and reduced the town to a state of the utmost -misery. In 1203 it was joined to France with the rest of Normandy; but -this practically meant an entire renunciation of its freedom. Philip -Augustus and Louis IX. confiscated its seigneurial rights and set a -French governor to rule over the country instead of the Norman lords, -though the latter king probably made up, in the eyes of the people of -Coutances, for these encroachments by paying a visit to their town, -which honour is remembered by them to-day not only as an act of royal -condescension but of saintly beneficence. - -In the wars of Edward III. and Henry V. Coutances had its share. -Standing in the western corner of Normandy, the town came at the end of -a long line of strongholds which one after the other had surrendered to -the English assault. Valognes fell, then the Ponts d'Ouve, then Carentan -and Saint-L. Next Edward turned off towards Caen and followed on to -Crcy; so that it seemed at first as though Coutances would escape -altogether. However, the treachery of one of the neighbouring lords was -to attempt what the enemy had left undone. In 1358 there lived in the -chteau of Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte a certain Geoffrey d'Harcourt, -surnamed Le Boiteux, whose nephew had been treacherously murdered at -Rouen. D'Harcourt resolved to revenge the crime upon the city of -Coutances. He got together an army with the help of the King of Navarre, -and drew up his troops outside the town, with heavy machines for -battery; and he had succeeded in forcing a breach, when the royal army, -arriving at an opportune moment, upset his schemes and sent him back to -his chteau of Saint-Sauveur. In the latter part of the war, however, -this good fortune left the city. After his victory at Agincourt the -English king marched westward to subdue the towns in the far corner of -Normandy, and Coutances fell into his hands in 1418, remaining under the -same rule until the Constable de Richemont drove out the English in -1449; and it is said that to all those of the inhabitants who had -remained faithful to his cause Charles VII. made reparation for all the -spoliation they had suffered at the hands of the English. This may, of -course, have emanated from that prince's indolent good nature, which did -not object to granting a favour where it was not too much trouble; but -considering the utter laziness of Charles it seems unlikely that he -should have troubled himself to this extent in the cause of a little -city in the west, far away from Paris, when he was occupied with the new -experience of being king in fact as well as name. - -[Illustration: COUTANCES] - -The League Wars were the next to touch Coutances. -Bricqueville-Colombires, who, as we saw, was to meet a soldier's death -upon the walls of Saint L some years later, took possession of the town -in the name of the Protestants in 1561, and as the standards of both -armies were followed by crowds of half-savage, ignorant peasants, -thirsty for plunder of any sort, Coutances found itself overrun as it -had been by a tribe of wild beasts. Men, women and children were -massacred without quarter, churches and houses were rifled and, worse -than all, the beautiful Cathedral of de Montbray suffered a like fate -and was despoiled of sculpture, carving, statues and sainted relics, the -bishop and clergy being struck down before they could attempt to quell -these barbarian inroads. This scene was repeated two years later, when -Colombires burnt part of the town, and again in 1566. After such -treatment, it is hardly to be wondered at that the inhabitants of -Coutances declared for the League, in spite of the fact that this -disobedience caused the temporary removal of both their civil and -seigneurial rights, the one passing to Saint-L and the other to -Granville. - -In the reign of Louis XIII. Richelieu imposed upon the inhabitants of -Normandy the hateful tax known as the Gabelle, and by this means stirred -up the revolt of the "Nu-pieds." Coutances shared in several of the -subsequent disorders. One Poupinel, charged with a commission from the -Parliament of Rouen, was murdered in the streets of Avranches; and the -tax-gatherer at Coutances, fearing a like fate, armed all his followers -in the event of a possible disturbance. The worthy man's extra -precaution, however, proved to do more harm than good; his servants in -their excess of zeal saw an enemy in every harmless farmer come to do -his marketing in the town, and a deadly weapon in every ashen stick, and -the pitch of excitement grew so high that when the bell of Saint Pierre -began to ring for a christening, they took it for the warning peal of -the tocsin, and rushed out into the streets with loud cries, brandishing -their weapons and assaulting in their excitement every innocent burgher -whom they met. - -As was but natural, this unprovoked attack roused the dormant spirit of -revolt among the people; Nicolle, the unfortunate tax-gatherer, found -out his mistake too late; the "Nu-pieds," under their chief, Le -Sauvage, burnt down his house and murdered his brother; and for a few -days, until the popular fury had quieted down, Coutances was thrown into -a state of revolution. The terrible disturbances of the next century, -however, did not work much havoc here. Only twenty-three persons in all -were sent to the guillotine from Coutances during the Terror, and most -of these, we are told, were burghers and not aristocrats, and the -victims of private vengeance rather than of public fury. - -Coutances had a good many notable bishops. There was Eureptiolus, -mentioned above; there were Laudus, the founder of Saint-L; and Robert -of Lisieux, who built his church on the foundations of the old basilica; -and Geoffroy de Montbray, whose best life-work was given to finishing -what Robert had begun; Hugues de Morville, who restored the Cathedral in -the thirteenth century; and energetic, tenacious Geoffroy Herbert, who -was possessed with a perfect mania for building, in and out of -Coutances, and to whom the town owes the church of St. Pierre. - -The Cathedral at Coutances was founded by the widow of Richard the -Fearless in 1030, and completed towards the end of the century by -Geoffroy de Montbray, William the Conqueror's fighting bishop. After -the union of Normandy to France it was rebuilt, and the work of -restoration extended into the fifteenth century. Entering by the north -porch one is struck by the beauty of the doorway, whose overhanging -mouldings and shafts are designed with great elegance and freedom. The -English type of capital, with round abacus and vigorous foliation, -reminds one of the cathedrals of Salisbury and Lincoln; and the tympanum -with its sadly-mutilated figures is carried on a corbel table of great -beauty. The interior elevation of the bays is composed of three -features--pier arches, a fine triforium with quatrefoil balustrade, and -a rather small clerestory with a passage-way crossing its base. There is -a great deal of exquisite glass in the cathedral, especially in the -transepts. In the choir the love of high clerestories, admitting as much -light as possible to the chancel, to the almost complete extinction of -the triforium, shows itself here as in many other churches already -noticed. The upper windows are in two planes, with a light shaft -supporting the interior arches. - -In the ambulatory there is what looks like a blind stone bay, corbelled -out and resting on the capitals of the columns. Probably this is a -staircase leading to the upper passages of the triforium and clerestory. -The lantern, which is octagon in plan, has three tiers of arches, the -over-hanging sides being supported by a simple pendentive with very -slight mouldings. - -[Illustration: THE SOUTH PORCH OF THE CATHEDRAL, COUTANCES] - -Beyond the Place du Parvis, where the Cathedral stands, is the Muse, -once the house of Quesnel Morinire, who at his death left to the town -both house and garden. The latter is now converted into a Jardin Public, -which every French town, however small, seems to possess; and sitting or -walking amidst its shady alleys and green lawns, with catalpas and -orange trees in full bloom overhead, one feels very kindly disposed -towards the good citizen who planted them and left this possession for -the enjoyment of his fellows. - -During our stay at Coutances one incident took place which may be -interesting as showing how medival customs still survive in these -little towns. In the middle of the night we were roused from sleep by -the blast of a bugle in the street below. This was presently followed by -a roll of drums and shouts of "Au feu! au feu!" The deep-toned bell of -St. Nicolas then took up the alarm and echoed out far and wide its -warning notes. In a moment the town was awake. Heads peered out at every -window, and the street was soon alive with the tread of hurrying feet; -caf and cabaret furnished their contingent to the excited crowd, and -even children were brought out of their beds to gaze down the blazing -street. The gregarious and sympathetic Frenchman can never allow any -event to take place, be it funeral, festival or fire, without calling -all his friends to assist at it; and the general turn-out into the -streets reminds one of the thousands of Londoners who left their beds to -celebrate the relief of Mafeking. - - - - -Chapter Eight - -LE MANS - - -"Each land and city," says Freeman, "has its special characteristics -which distinguish it from others. One is famous for its church and its -bishops, another for its commonwealth, another for its princes. Le Mans -has the special privilege of being alike famous for all three." At Le -Mans, church, counts and commune have each made a separate mark upon the -roll of French history. The communal power gave the town strength within -itself; the counts of Maine, whose line dates back to the time of Hugh -Capet, made of it a mighty feudal possession; and the great church above -the Sarthe, whose traditions have been handed down even from Saint -Martin of Tours, stood apart on its hill-crest and watched over the -city. - -[Illustration: ST. PIERRE, COUTANCES] - -As was usually the case in these powerful cities the commune was the -last element to arise at Le Mans; before its appearance we find both -Church and State fully established on the hill. Julian built his church -under the rule of Trajan; Defensor, the local ruler, lived in his palace -side by side with the great missionary bishop who had converted him to -Christianity; and after him came the line of counts who seem to have -been always at war either with Normandy on the one side or with Anjou on -the other. Considering these two powerful neighbours, it is wonderful -what a prestige Maine did succeed in establishing, by the help of her -bishops, and also by the help of the strong fortress which was her -capital city. But in the reign of the prince from Liguria, Azo, to whom -Maine had descended in an indirect line, a third factor thrust itself -into the growing fabric of the city. It may have been the example of -Italian states which the coming of an Italian ruler had brought before -the Cenomannians more forcibly; it may have been the encroachments of -the Countess Gersendis, regent in the absence of her husband; but from -whatever cause, it was certain that memories of the municipal rights of -ancient Gaul were being kindled amongst the people--murmurs were heard -of a time when, under the Roman yoke, a prince did not signify a -tyrant--and presently the Cenomannian burghers took the law into their -own hands and met together to declare their freedom and--a testimony of -their strength--compelled Geoffrey of Mayenne and all the surrounding -princes to swear their civic oath. Thus was founded the earliest -_commune_ in Gaul, and when, soon afterwards, the Conqueror subdued Le -Mans and the whole state of Maine, the city still retained its newly won -privileges, William binding himself over to respect and observe the -customs pertaining to the same, the ancient "justices" of the city. A -threefold history of this kind leads one naturally to look for a -threefold interest within the town itself; yet this is lacking in the -city of to-day--its past glories lie rather in tradition and association -than in anything more tangible. The church still stands upon the hill, -but it stands alone. Almost every trace of feudal prince and ancient -commune has been swept away, and the old Le Mans has become a city of -solid white-painted buildings and clean, sunny _places_. By the -river-side and near the Cathedral a few old houses and crooked alleys -still remain, and here too may be seen fragments of the old city walls, -built by Roman forethought in the third and fourth centuries. These -ramparts have stood the town in good stead. From its position and -importance, Le Mans has always been coveted by the enemy, and since the -days of Clovis down to the war with Prussia it has known the tread of -besieging hosts at its gates. The Normans had it under the Conqueror, -and lost it under his son, Duke Robert; during the Hundred Years' War it -was besieged five times; the Huguenots took it during the wars of the -League; after the fall of the Bourbon monarchy it was seized in -desperation by the Royalists of La Vende, but retaken by Marceau; and -nearer our own day comes the terrible "week of battles" in January, -1871, during which the Prussians occupied Le Mans and defeated the army -of the Loire so severely as to destroy all hope of relieving Paris. - -"In the second half of the campaign, in the contest against France ... -both belligerents kept the same goal before their eyes--Paris: the one -in order to dictate peace from within the walls of the conquered -capital, the other in order to gain that victory which would give to the -war the long and eagerly-desired change of fortune." During the winter -of 1870 the army of the Loire had set out to reach Paris from Orlans; -but a succession of defeats drove it back to the Loire, from whence it -was to retreat upon Le Mans. Pursuit did not follow at once. The -Prussian Army, under Prince Frederick Charles, waited between Orlans -and Vendme until the New Year, when an advance was ordered, and the -three divisions of the army marched upon Le Mans by their respective -roads. Passing Vendme, which was the scene of a sharp engagement with -the enemy, they crossed the country between the Loire and the Sarthe -with some difficulty; bad weather had made the roads almost impassable, -and the district was cut up into vineyards, farmsteads and small -valleys. "The invader rarely gets a general view of the country even -from elevated positions; he must renounce any plan of acting with large -displayed masses, especially in the case of artillery; the action of -cavalry is restricted to the roads, and the whole burden of the contest -falls exclusively on the infantry." Fighting their way through the -scattered French forces two divisions managed to come within ten miles -of Le Mans by January 9, and on the next day the battle began. The -Prussian watchword was "Forward with all speed," and such speed did they -make that at the end of three days they had advanced upon the French in -their strong position, keeping always to the maxim, "Stand firm in the -centre and act on the offensive at the two wings." - -"On January 11, the French army of the West was completely defeated near -Le Mans by the German Second Army, under Prince Frederick Charles and -the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg, and Le Mans was immediately occupied." -Such was the announcement in _The Times_ newspaper on the morning of -January 13, 1871. - -General Chanzy, who was in command of the French army of the West, -courted defeat by advancing upon Paris, and by his retreat upon Le Mans -invited the Germans to occupy it. Prince Frederick Charles, leaving -Orlans and passing Beaugency and Vendme, arrived at the latter place -in time to see Chanzy repulsed, but not in time to cut off the French -army, which was now in full retreat towards Paris. A series of -rear-guard engagements followed as the Prussians drove the French before -them towards Le Mans. The storming of Chang was the last of the many -battles around Le Mans. It lies in a hollow with hills curving round it -on two sides, the north and west, and on these hills the French had -taken up their position. They had, apparently, no desire to advance and -clear away the Germans who were attacking them, laboriously marching -through snow and the thick woods which covered the position. The -attacking force ran from tree to tree and sought whatever shelter was -available, making frequent charges whenever an occasion offered itself. -Notwithstanding their pertinacity they failed to carry the heights, and -were for some time in danger of suffering a severe repulse, as the -reserves on whom they relied had not yet come up, but were pounding -their way along the frozen roads from La Chartre to Le Mans. The troops -bivouacked in the snow on the night of the 11th, and when the frosty -sun rose on the morning of the 12th the French outposts had been -withdrawn and retired upon Le Mans. By this time the Tenth Corps had -joined the attacking force, and after heavy fighting in the streets and -squares the town was won in the evening, and on the following day Prince -Frederick Charles established there his headquarters. - -[Illustration: LE MANS] - -General Chanzy in his defence of Le Mans accomplished all that courage -and gallantry in his dire situation could suggest; he disputed the -country inch by inch before the advancing armies of the Duke of -Mecklenburg and Von der Tann, but he was unable with his raw levies, -with recruits undrilled, unshod and unofficered, to withstand the -furious onslaught of the enemy. Such is the short tribute paid to the -French general by _The Times_ correspondent with the Prussian Army. - -The Cathedral of Saint-Julien sits astride a great rock overlooking the -Place des Jacobins--a square wide enough for once to allow of an -adequate view of the great church on its eastern side. It stands so high -that the want of a central tower is felt less than would be the case at -a lower level. The only tower of any pretensions is over the south -transept--originally the north transept possessed one also--but even -this is rather inefficient. It is advisable to enter the Cathedral by -the west door rather than by the south porch, so as to prevent the -uninteresting west wall of the nave from becoming a factor of one's -first impression. From this point it is the choir that first arrests our -attention; we pass on through the lower, simpler nave and through the -great soaring chancel arch that to look upon makes us giddy, to the -blaze of deep-coloured glass and the magnificent _chevet_ of stilted -arches placed close together and looking from their great height much -narrower than they really are. The same idea of height and light -prevails in the transepts, for by this time the French architect had -begun to gauge the emotional effect of tremendous height, and to dare -greater things than his predecessors had ever dreamed; while the same -insatiable desire for light that we saw in the choir at Amiens has -possessed the builder of Saint Julien, and led him to make his transepts -nearly all window--especially the northern one, which has a triforium -lighted by beautiful fifteenth-century glass--and to put a double -ambulatory round the choir, both lighted by that marvellous jewelled -glass. - -The Romanesque nave was restored in the twelfth century, but this -restoration was apparently a replacement of a great deal of old work, -with only slight modifications of the original inspiration. A large -door, decorated with sculpture and bearing a strong analogy to the -Portail Royal of Chartres, was opened in the middle of the south aisle. -Further changes were made in the early part of the thirteenth century, -when the ancient apses were destroyed, and the admirable choir, as we -now see it, was built--"a masterpiece of effect"--with its encircling -chapels radiating like the petals of a flower. The vaulting approaches -in construction the "cupola inspiration"; but here, as at Angers and -Poitiers, it is an example of only the last traces which remain to us of -the domical design. - -Besides the Cathedral there are two churches worthy of note--Notre Dame -de la Coture, in the eastern quarter of the town, amongst the shops and -markets; and Notre Dame (sometimes called St. Julien) du Pr, across the -river in the far west. The latter church, in spite of having been a good -deal restored, is extremely interesting. In the nave hangs a little -printed history, which tells us that the church was founded by the first -bishop of Le Mans, Saint Julian, sent as a missionary by Saint Peter. In -honour of his great master Julian built a basilica, which was enlarged -by Saint Innocent in the sixth century and restored about 1050. In the -fifteenth century both church and monastery suffered from fire; two -centuries later the pious Benedictines made some alterations, but -during the Revolution the church was sacked and burnt, and the crypt, -together with the tombs of Saint Julian and Saint Hadouin, entirely -destroyed. The task of restoration was left to the faithful in the -nineteenth century. In spite of the modern work, however, the church -contains a great deal that is very interesting and undoubtedly ancient. -The nave pillars especially, with their carved capitals, are worth -individual notice. In those of the north aisle, from west to east, we -find portrayed: - -No. 1. Animals caught in a thicket, turning their heads over their -shoulders to free themselves from the branches. Notice here how the -volute at the corner has suggested to the sculptor a human face. - -No. 2. Leaves and curiously twisted arabesques. - -No. 3. The same in a simpler form. - -No. 4. Volutes and grotesque heads at the angles. - -No. 5. [South aisle, east to west] gives a kind of rope-work, with -volutes and human-headed dragons. - -No. 6. Is much the same as No. 3. - -No. 7. Flat _applique_ leaves, volutes and ball-flowers; and in - -No. 8. We return to the wild animals. Both aisles are arcaded on their -outer walls; on the north we find arches ornamented with ball-flowers, -on the south an arcade of some interest, as showing the immense -variety of design in its capitals--dragons, fir-cones, arabesques, and, -strangest of all, winged lions, with a most Assyrian air. Apart from the -capitals, the architecture of the church is quite simple, and whoever -rehandled it has done so much in keeping with the old work. The windows -are round-headed: the clerestory consists of single lights, and the -triforium is a blind arcade. - -[Illustration: NTRE DAME DE LA COTURE, LE MANS] - -Notre Dame de la Coture--the name originally referred to the _Cultura -Dei_--is an old Benedictine foundation, dating from the sixth century, -but destroyed during the Revolution; the church, however, remains, with -most of the old work intact, the two square fourteenth-century towers -rising in quaint contrast to the modern buildings around them. Between -the towers a remarkable Last Judgment confronts the visitor from the -west doorway. The central figure, Justice, weighs a sinner in the -balance, and apparently finds him wanting, if one may judge by the angle -of the scales and the expectantly gleeful attitude of a devil amongst -the "goats" on the left hand. Of the interior, the choir is the oldest -part, and here we find eleventh-century work, especially in the crypt, -which contains the tomb of the founder, Saint Bertrand, and shows the -rudely carved capitals and square-edged arches of an age before -architects had blossomed out into beauty of sculpture and design. The -same simplicity characterises the choir, which has four bays and a -_chevet_ of five-round arches, with massive piers, and the abacus square -and voluted at the angles. The vaulting of the _chevet_ is terminated by -figures of saints, which rest upon the shafts of the clerestory windows. -There is no triforium, its position being taken throughout the church by -corbel tables in the form of human and animal faces. The nave consists -of a single wide body without aisles, and set in the blank wall are -three large bays of relieving arches, their space being filled in with -curious old tapestry, in which appears a medley of Biblical subjects, -pastoral and hunting scenes, and Chinese pagodas. - -This quiet little church was in the very centre of the furious street -fighting which followed the first rush into the city of the Prussian -troops, and fulfilled its sacred mission of giving shelter to the -wounded and comfort to the dying who lay stretched in the neighbouring -streets of the town. "We entered," says the war correspondent of _The -Times_, "the picturesque old church of Notre Dame de la Coture, -interesting from its quaint mixed architecture, its old choir and -vaulted walls, and were told by the meek-looking priest who sadly showed -us over it, and was busy cleaning it as we entered, that no fewer than -six hundred wounded had passed the night in it." - - - - -Chapter Nine - -ANGERS - - -If Le Mans marks the first stage from Normandy upon the southward road, -Angers may certainly be counted as another stepping-stone to the lands -of the Loire--another landmark in our own history--another city upon a -hill, and yet differing from all the hill cities before it. We are now -in what Freeman calls "before all things the land and the city of -counts," the city which gave to history the name of Fulk the Black, -warrior and pilgrim and enemy of Odo of Chartres; of Geoffrey the -Hammer, who strove with the Conqueror at Domfront and Alenon; of Ren -the minstrel and of Margaret his daughter, who carried to England the -spirit of the old Angevin line, and fought with the strength of two for -the inheritance of her husband, meek, scholarly Henry of Windsor, for -whom the shield of faith had more significance than the shield of the -warrior. - -The house of Anjou cannot but have an interest to an Englishman, since -it is the parent stock of our longest dynasty. Long before it came -through Normandy into contact with England it held its own, however, in -Gaul, Roman and Frankish. The Andecavi, who settled on the Maine, were -an important tribe, and their city was of equal importance. In 464 the -Saxons wandered down from Normandy and overran Anjou, but their -occupation was merely temporary, and left no traces in city or people, -as did the Saxon colonies at Bayeux and in England; and when this one -cloud has cleared off, an open field is left for the history of the -counts. Now the Counts of Anjou may be said to stand very near the head -of the list of all the rulers in France at this early time--a long list, -which numbers many important names, Hughs and Roberts of Paris, Williams -and Richards of Normandy, Thibauts of Champagne--yet against whose feats -of arms and feats of policy the Angevins can measure theirs almost one -by one. "The restless spirit of the race showed itself sometimes for -good and sometimes for evil, but there was no Count of Anjou who could -be called a fool, a coward, or a _fainant_." - -The first count, Ingelgar, received his dominion from Charles the Bald, -in about 870. After him comes Fulk the Red, who enlarged his father's -borders beyond the river; Fulk the Good, the scholar who defended his -learning with the well-known proverb, "An unlettered king is but a -crownd ass," a saying which spread beyond his own realm and found -favour at the court of England; and the warlike Geoffrey of the Grey -Tunic, who repelled the Breton and Aquitanian incursions and fought in -Frankish and German wars besides. Geoffrey it was who gave to the line -the famous Fulk the Black, the first count who appears to any great -extent in French history--the history, that is, of France proper, at -that time apart from the great duchies on her boundaries. His wars with -Odo filled a great part of his reign, and brought him down as far as the -Loire, where, through the alliance of a count of Prigueux, Tours became -his for a short time; also Saumur, after the victory of Pontlevois. On -two occasions he turned pilgrim; and he is also found at Rome, applying -to the Pope for consecration of his new monastery near Loches, which -Hugh of Tours, whose see Fulk had robbed, refused to consecrate unless -the stolen lands were restored. Naturally the Gallican Church resented -this destruction of their privileges; the full wrath of the episcopate -was pronounced against the recreant count, and a legend adds that in -further punishment a wind came from heaven and blew down his newly-built -church. How this uncanonical behaviour must have vexed the shades of -Fulk the pious! Fulk Nerra was followed by Geoffrey, self-christened -the Hammer. He rebelled against his father during his lifetime, but -after his death continued the war with Chartres, and actually got -possession of Tours, the one city for which every Angevin strove. Count -Thibaut was formally deprived of the city by royal command, and it was -handed over to Geoffrey, under the favour, the superstitious chroniclers -make haste to add, of Saint Martin. Notwithstanding this royal grant, -Henry, the Frank king, seems to have been perpetually at war with -Geoffrey, and even to have called in feudal service of the Norman duke -to aid him against the Angevin count. William himself was no friend to -Anjou. The mastery over Maine was a bone of contention to the two great -powers on its north and south borders; and when Geoffrey obtained the -guardianship of little Count Hugh, and came into immediate contact with -Normandy, a definite struggle arose. Geoffrey aimed at the two outposts -of William's territory, Alenon and Domfront. Alenon, through the -treachery of its lord, surrendered to him; Domfront was also -disaffected, and for a moment it seemed as though the land of the great -Norman were to be invaded by his southern neighbour. But William was -prepared for any emergency. He marched straight to Domfront, where -Geoffrey had already stationed his troops, and laid siege to it. He -remained before the town for some time before news came of the advance -of Geoffrey himself; and when the Count at last arrived, he sent word of -his readiness to give battle. But when the morning broke upon the Norman -host, drawn up before the fortress all expectant of a battle with the -Angevins, lo! no enemy was to be seen. Geoffrey, whose surname of Hammer -by no means maligned his prudence, had thought better of the scheme in -the night, and retired with all his men. The Norman writers, of course, -set this down to cowardice. But one would like to hear the other side of -the story. "Here, and throughout the war, the lions stand in need of a -painter, or rather their painters suddenly refuse to do their duty. We -have no Angevin account of the siege of Domfront to set against our -evidently highly coloured Norman picture." - -"The French yearning to make everything new" has done its work in -Angers, but though Fulk, Geoffrey, Ren, and the rest would be at a loss -to recognise their old capital in the trim modern town, enough remains -to show us what has been. No city standing as Angers does on rising -ground above a wide river, with a mass of castle bastions sloping up the -hill, could fail to have made history in its day. The modern town may be -disposed of in a few words--it is clean and full of life, and -altogether very far removed from the "black Angers" known to our -ancestors. This medival and grim-sounding title, reminiscent of -dungeons and tyrant princes, probably either meant that the ancient town -was closely and squalidly built, or else referred to the dark slate with -which the country abounds, and which might well have been used for -building purposes all over the town, as we still see it in some houses -by the river. - -The attractive side of Angers is that facing the water, and the river is -quite worthy of the town on its banks, though Mr. Henry James does -censure the "perversity in a town lying near a great river, and yet not -upon it." It is true that Angers has not got as far as the Loire; but it -has what is next best, a tributary of the great river--a wide placid -flow, which makes no mean show here, spanned as it is by three fine -bridges. Looking upstream from the lowest bridge one sees the old and -the new together; the clean well-to-do water-front, pleasant boulevards, -and a bright little quay with every house the pattern of its neighbour; -and above this the black mass of the castle, whose solid hugeness makes -the crowning towers of Saint Maurice look as if they were cut out of -paper, so delicately and sharply defined are they against the sky. Down -river there is a long and sunny path, broad green meadows and a stretch -of country beyond, and little fishing boats dotted about on the water. - -But what Angers has of the best is its castle, though it be "the work of -intruding Kings," Philip Augustus and Louis IX., and not of the Angevin -counts. It is, indeed, more massive than picturesque--"it has no beauty, -no grace, no detail, nothing that charms or detains you; it is simply -very old and very big--so big and so old that this simple impression is -enough, and it takes its place in your recollections as a perfect -specimen of a superannuated stronghold." The huge grim bastions, girded -with iron bands as though to give added strength to their already -giant-like solidity, and the deep moat, filled in old days by the waters -of the Maine, stood there for a very real and terrible use, and even now -are a splendid example of how men in the Middle Ages defended themselves -against all comers. The very steepness and plainness of the vast walls -prevented an enemy from gaining any foothold, even supposing him to have -crossed the moat in safety. But this great house of defence now gives on -to a modern boulevard; a kitchen-garden occupies the moat, and sends the -scent of thyme and rosemary up through those loop-hole windows, whose -most peaceful prospect of old was the black, silent water below, and -whose usual occupants were armed men with cross-bows, or boiling lead, -or something equally quieting to the unwary spirit attempting to scale -those unscalable ramparts. - -In the heart of the town is a very comfortable little inn at the sign of -the "Cheval Blanc." The house has a quiet and rather old-fashioned -atmosphere, perhaps a relic of past days, as the inn itself has stood -there since the sixteenth century, though the present building is quite -modern. Another relic--though the term hardly suits such a hale and -hearty person--is a delightful old waiter, who has been at the Cheval -Blanc for forty years, and wears on his coat with the greatest pride a -minute piece of _tricolor_--the recognition of thirty years' service. -Close to the Cheval Blanc is the Prfecture, and this contains a hidden -treasure in the shape of an old cloister, which runs along one side of -the court. This cloister was not discovered until 1836, but the remains -themselves date from the twelfth century, and are of extraordinary -interest, not merely from their antiquity, but also from the immense -variety of subject sculpture which adorns them. There are several bays -of round-headed arches, and from their capitals and mouldings dragons -and toads, snakes and winged lions, glare and wriggle at the visitor in -a grotesque medley. In some cases Scriptural subjects are -represented--there is notably the murder of the Innocents, a -marvellously preserved and realistic fresco, reminiscent both in -treatment and colour scheme of some of the Bayeux tapestry; the killing -of Goliath by David, and the presentation of his head to Saul; and -inside a very modern council-room, a wonderful allegory representing the -defeat of Vice by Virtue. The Lamb, enhaloed, is in the centre; beneath -are two lions tearing apart a wild boar; and in the jambs are virtues, -armed with shield and sword, trampling upon demon vices--men struggling -with wild beasts--and adoring angels swinging censers. This is partly -coloured, and the sculpture is very fine, great attention being given to -detail. - -[Illustration: ANGERS] - -Freeman declares the city of Angers to be the headquarters of the -Angevin style of architecture, and quotes as a noticeable example of -that style the Cathedral of St. Maurice, which differs at least as -widely from that of the French churches as from that of Normandy. The -object of the Angevin architect was breadth, and he has sacrificed both -length and height to the attainment of his end. The view from the west -doorway of St. Maurice shows a well-known example of what is termed the -"hall plan"--a single wide nave, having choir and transepts, but without -ambulatories or aisles. That the church originally had aisles, however, -is evident from a plan of Saint Maurice given in Mr. Lethaby's "Medival -Art"; they were removed, it is assumed, in order to simplify the -construction of the vault. The great relieving arches of the nave as it -now stands are divided into three bays only. "In everything," Freeman -says, "the tendency is to have a few large members rather than many -small ones. There is a certain boldness and simplicity about this kind -of treatment; but there is also a certain bareness, and an Angevin -church looks both lower and shorter than it really is." The vaulting of -the roof here follows the same sub-domical design as that of Notre Dame -de la Coture at Le Mans. The stained glass is perhaps the best feature -of the church as far as actual beauty goes; some of it dates from the -twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and both in nave and choir it is very -fine, particularly in the windows of the apse and in the rose window of -the north transept. The tapestry which hangs in the nave and transepts -represents scenes from the Apocalypse, and is very fine Arras work of -the fourteenth century. - - - - -Chapter Ten - -TOURS AND BLOIS - - -So much has been said and written of the Loire country during the past -fifty years that the modern writer has very little ground left to him, -unless it be to avoid calling it the "Garden of France." Yet -over-written as it may be, Touraine has not lost any of the charm and -romance which must always attach to a wide sunny land, watered by a -great river, and "peopled"--one might almost say--by chteaux, every one -of which has set its mark upon French history. Certainly there is -something very delightful, because so unlike anything else in France, in -the endless vista of grey-green levels--here and there a group of slim -shivering poplars or a flash of sunlight upon the wide waters of the -Loire, which winds in and out of the flats like a great lazy shining -serpent--flying sometimes into a sudden rage and flooding the land, or -subsiding sulkily amongst high banks and stretches of dry sand. - -It is these moods and tempers of the great river that prevent any -navigation upon its waters; other smaller rivers--the Seine, for -instance, and our own Thames--are alive with craft of every kind; but -here, on the great boundary stream between north and south, which seems -made for a waterway to the sea, no busy steamers ply up and down with -the tide--no barges and market boats disturb the calm of its wide -reaches. There never was, for its size, such an erratic and useless -river; yet we can afford to forgive it, for the sake of the land which -it waters and the cities on its banks. - -The impression one carries away from Tours is one of wideness, and -brightness, and sunshine--shaded by one or two ancient corners. It is -above all things a town really lived in and appreciated by its -inhabitants, many of whom are English. Tours is, or used to be, a famous -educational centre, and for the sake of education, or economy, or both, -whole families have migrated there, besides the unmistakably English -students who have been grafted on to a family to learn French. And the -river-side shows, if not a strenuously busy, at least a very sociable -side of the town life, especially in the summer evenings, when the -Tourangeaux, native and adopted, leave the white houses and busy -streets, and use their river bank for a pleasant walk. - -It is curious how in France each step towards the south seems to be a -step further in French history. First there is Normandy, the land of the -early Northern warriors, with the fierce blood untamed in their veins; -then Maine and Anjou, recalling the days of our own Plantagenet kings, -and the close connection of France with England; while Touraine brings -back to us the craft of Louis XI. and the magnificence of Franois -Ier. Tours itself, however, has never been content to lie fallow for -long; ever since some Roman emperor transported it from the right bank -of the Loire to the left, and made it the capital of Lugdunensis Tertia, -the town has had an important part assigned to it, and has played out -that part to the full. Though in old days Tours was only half of the -place, the _cit_, the _bourg_, built round the tomb and shrine of Saint -Martin and first called by his name, was of equal if not greater -importance, from the many pilgrimages to the resting-place of the great -saint. This is easily understood when one considers in what veneration -Saint Martin was held by the Gauls and their descendants. Saint -Gatianus, the first bishop of Tours, began the good work in the third -century, but to Martin is due the subsequent spread of Christianity, not -only in Touraine but all over France, so that he really shares with -Saint Denis the honour of patron saint. Born of pagan parents in -Pannonia, Martin became a catechumen at ten years old, and five years -later was forced, much against his will, to enter the army. After his -final conversion and baptism, however, he left it to become the eager -disciple and co-worker of Hilary, Bishop of Poitiers; and in 371 he was -consecrated Bishop of Tours. The legend of Martin's conversion is well -known (at any rate it may be found commemorated in the painted windows -of churches all over France)--how the young soldier stationed outside -the gate of Amiens shared his cloak with a passing beggar, and how the -following night Christ appeared to him in a vision, making known to the -angels of Heaven this thing done to Himself as to one of "the least of -these." - -[Illustration: TOUR DE L'HORLOGE, TOURS] - -After Martin's death at Candes his relics were brought to Tours, and in -the fifth century Saint Perpetuus built a splendid basilica round the -shrine. This church became the nucleus of the _bourg_ of Martinopolis, -known to the Middle Ages as Chteauneuf. Side by side with the church a -monastery sprang up, and in the reign of Charlemagne the famous scholar -Alcuin became abbot and founded there his school of theology. Late in -the tenth century the basilica was destroyed by fire; two centuries -later saw the completion of its successor, but this again, after -suffering many evils from Huguenot and Revolutionist hands, disappeared -under the First Empire to make a passage-way for the Rue des Halles. -Two towers--the church originally had five--now look mournfully at one -another across the busy, narrow street: the Tour de l'Horloge, square -and solid, with a leaded roof capped by a small eighteenth-century dome, -and the taller Tour Charlemagne, so called for the rather insufficient -reason that Charlemagne buried his third wife, Luitgarde, beneath its -base. These are the sole relics of the ancient _culte_ of Saint Martin; -though to his memory in latter days a new basilica has reared itself on -the other side of the street. - -Until the days of the League, the kings of France always found an -attraction in the sunny Touraine meadows, and occupied themselves a good -deal with Tours itself. On the outskirts of the town is the village of -Plessis-les-Tours, where stood the famous fortress of Louis XI., who -lived, plotted and died within its walls; here also Louis XII. was -proclaimed "father of his people," and here Henri III. and the King of -Navarre met together for a common defence against the League. To an -Englishman the name naturally associates itself with Quentin Durward, -and calls up a picture of the grim fortress so vividly described by -Walter Scott, with its triple moat and high palisades, its dark walls -and turreted gateways, defended by three hundred Scottish arches, and -the donjon tower "which rose like a black Ethiopian giant, high into -the air." The castle of Plessis was in old days a terror to the -countryside; the surrounding forest was a perfect network of man-traps, -and the intruder, were he fortunate enough to avoid these, had no chance -of escape from the arrows of the Scottish guard in their iron "swallows' -nests" upon the walls. Hardly less mysterious, indeed, is the central -figure within these grim surroundings--Louis himself, whose character, -with its strange mingling of guile and religious fervour, unfathomable -craft and childish superstition, baffled the men of his own day as it -has baffled posterity. He was feared by those who served him, and he was -obeyed, because a terrible alternative awaited the disobedient; but he -was neither loved nor understood. Of love, indeed, he had little need, -and it was not his pleasure that men should understand him. - -Very little, however, remains to-day of the "verger du roi Louis" to -show that it was once the home of kings. It has gone the way of most of -the "illusions ... in the good city of Tours with regard to Louis XI.," -and only a few fragments and "inconsequent lumps" share with some modern -buildings the site of this royal prison of Plessis-les-Tours. - -[Illustration: ST. GATIEU, TOURS] - -The western faade of Tours Cathedral, with its two small towers, is a -noticeable example of the waning Gothic style. The detail is so -"charmingly executed as almost to induce the belief, in spite of the -fanciful extravagance which it displays, that the architects were -approaching to something new and beautiful when the mania for classic -detail overtook them." Looking eastward from the west door one notices -the northerly trend of the Cathedral's axis, commencing from the -transept arches. The choir spreads outward at its first bay, the side -walls not following the alignment of the body of the church. The glass -is both abundant and magnificent in the nave lights, and the enormous -clerestory windows display it to the greatest possible advantage. -Unfortunately, the fine rose window in the north transept is marred by -the cutting across of a vertical pillar, inserted as a support to the -crest of the arch. In both transepts the triforium arches present a -curious and novel arrangement, the reason for which is not very -apparent. The arches are in a double plane, but the openings are not -directly one behind another. - -The pier arches of the nave are plain, with simple panel-like spandrils, -the piers themselves supporting a very large clerestory and glazed -triforium. In the latter the heads of the arches are filled in with rich -Flamboyant tracery, either in imitation of the fleur-de-lys, or with -varieties of wheel tracery in double plane. The choir is much earlier -than the nave, and its bays show a beautiful proportion and harmony in -its members, the whole elevation being supported on clustered columns -with stalk capitals and square abacus. In the apse the tracery is a -slight variant from that of the choir; the arch-heads are here filled in -with trefoil instead of quatrefoil tracery. On the north side of the -Cathedral are the remains of some cloisters, joined to the main body by -two flying buttresses. - -To most travellers in France the town of Blois is associated with a -chteau rather than with a cathedral; it is one of a group of towns -known and visited for the historic piles which tower above their grey -roofs--Amboise and Chambord, Langeais and Chenonceaux, Chaumont and -Montrichard. We count Blois with these rather than with the towns famous -for their churches, and the bishopstool comes rather as a surprise, or -as a thing unconsidered. The Cathedral, built in the seventeenth century -and dedicated to St. Louis, occupies a magnificent position, overhanging -the grey water-front of the Loire in a fashion which seems to call for -some nobler building. However, although built according to a curiously -mixed design in bastard Gothic and Renaissance, there is a certain sense -of proportion in the interior of the church, the vaulting being -especially simple and broad in effect. The nave consists of nine bays, -with a low clerestory, terminating in stone panels, which occupy the -place usually assigned to the triforium, and are left in the rough with -a view to subsequent enrichment by sculpture. The examples of adornment -at the east end, however, make one feel that the church has been -mercifully spared any further fantasies from the chisel of the -Renaissance sculptor. - -Far better is the Church of St. Nicolas, whose twin towers stand out -dark and sharp midway between the water-front and the overhanging mass -of the Chteau. It belongs to the tenth and eleventh centuries, and has -not been much restored except by whitewash, which covers most of the -interior, but allows a good deal of old work to be seen, especially in -the north aisle, where, near the pulpit, we find round-headed windows -very deeply splayed. The nave has five bays, and a blind triforium, -consisting of an arcade of four small arches in each bay, the last two -eastward having only three arches set in the blind wall. These last bays -are much ruder than the others, especially on the south side. The -clerestory has twin lights, with a rose in the head of the arch, as is -seen in the Cathedral at Chartres. The transepts are good, and the -little corbel-tables running the whole way round, form a series of -those grotesque and curiously unecclesiastical faces of men and beasts -which we find so often in early church sculpture. In this particular -series a gridiron plays a prominent part, which is curious, as the -church appears to have no connection with Saint Lawrence. Behind the -choir is an old chapel dedicated to Saint Joseph, which has a Romanesque -apse; and it is noticeable that in this part of the church the roof -groining is simple--that is, without ribs. In the lantern, which is in -the form of a cupola, each pendentive is terminated by the figure of a -saint in its niche. - -[Illustration: BLOIS] - -High above Saint Nicolas a steep flight of steps leads up to the great -Chteau which has made history for the town below. The most striking -view is from the other side, where the magnificent "aile Franois -Ier" rises in imposing fashion above the high road; but the entrance -is in the Louis XII. wing to the east, and here the beautiful inner -court opens out a varied display of richness. The eastern wing itself -contains the private apartments of Louis XII. and his wife, Anne de -Bretagne--these are now converted into a local museum and picture -gallery--and the lower storey is in the form of an arcade, with -unrestored capitals of the fifteenth century. Facing this is the wing of -"ruled lines and blank spaces," constructed by Gaston d'Orlans, -brother of Louis XIII., upon the foundations of a wing erected by his -ancestor, the poet-duke Charles, whom Henry V. took prisoner at -Agincourt, and whose son became Louis XII. The old castle of the Counts -of Blois had been sold to the Orlans family by the last of the line in -1397, and the new possessors, each in his day, occupied themselves in -restoring and embellishing it. So zealous indeed, in this respect, was -Duke Gaston, that, had not fate intervened, not only the west wing but -the entire building would have been pulled down to make way for his -plans. Happily for posterity, this devastation never took place, and the -Franois Ier wing, the chief treasure of the Chteau, is still -preserved to us much as it was at the end of the sixteenth century, at -which time Blois may be said to have reached the zenith of its fame in -the history of France. The Chteau was then a royal residence, and the -roll of its inhabitants forms a long list of illustrious names, foremost -among which stand those of Catherine d Medici and Charles IX., Henri -III., and the King of Navarre, and the famous Henri de Guise, who met -his death here through the suspicion and jealousy of the king, his -cousin. In the Guise tragedy the chief interest of the Chteau appears -to centre. Dark hints concerning "le Balafr" are thrown out during the -progress through a succession of dim, empty rooms--council room and -bed-chamber, oratory and private closet, some flooded with sunshine, -others dark with the strange misty curtain that age will sometimes hang -across an old chamber, and through whose thin veil one seems to see the -shades of those old-time kings and queens, walking, plotting and praying -as they did when the Chteau was alive with the tread of men. All this -appears to lead up to the scene of the Guise murder, and as the guide -reaches the royal bed-chamber and points through a doorway here and down -a passage there, one seems to have reached the heart of the tragedy. -There, in the long council-room, the Balafr stood, warming his hands by -the fire, when the message came that the king awaited him in a cabinet -at the far end of the wing; here, in an ante-room close by, Henri III. -lifted the curtain and watched the enemy to his death; there in the -dark, narrow passage--too narrow even to allow of his drawing -sword--Guise found himself caught like a rat in a trap; here, in the -king's own chamber, he doubled back for safety, and met his death at the -foot of the royal bed. It is all very thrilling and very real; and -little as there is to love in Henri de Guise, one cannot but pity the -man for the manner of his death; and there seems nothing but justice in -the murder of the king himself a short time afterwards. This second -tragedy took place outside the old dungeon, a gloomy round tower with -cross-barred windows and a heavy iron door, behind which the Cardinal de -Guise, brother of the Balafr, suffered imprisonment at the hands of his -jealous cousin. In the centre of the dungeon floor is a trap door, -which, considering the general atmosphere of the place, one naturally -associates with an oubliette, but which more probably represented the -head of a well, run up through the building in order that the -inhabitants of the castle should not suffer from want of water in siege -time. - -It is curious to note that the historical description to which the -visitor listens to-day as he follows his guide through those empty -chambers at Blois is almost exactly the same as that given a hundred and -twenty years ago. Arthur Young, travelling in France in 1787, paid a -visit to Blois, and gives the following account of the Chteau and its -history: "We viewed the castle for the historical monument it affords -that has rendered it so famous. They show the room where the council -assembled, and the chimney in it before which the Duke of Guise was -standing when the king's page came to demand his presence in the royal -closet; the door he was entering when stabbed; the tapestry he was in -the act of turning aside; the tower where his brother the cardinal -suffered, with a hole in the floor into the dungeon of Louis XI., of -which the guide tells many horrible stories, in the same tone, from -having told them so often, in which the fellow in Westminster Abbey -gives his monotonous history of the tombs." - - - - -Chapter Eleven - -CHARTRES - - -"Chartres," says Mr. Henry James, "gives us an impression of extreme -antiquity, but it is an antiquity that has gone down in the world." It -may be this very decadence that has kept Chartres within itself and -prevented it from growing out into a large pretentious city. Many other -places which rival it in age and association have either swept away all -traces of their antiquity, or else preserved it in dignified contrast to -the modern mushroom town. Chartres has done neither. It is scarcely more -at the present day than a quaint country town with a very old-fashioned -air, a place of steep, twisting streets and quiet little market-squares, -the cathedral rising like a giant from the very midst of the houses. -Round the town runs a boulevard, known as the Tour-de-Ville, and -interesting for the fact that it follows the line of the medival -defences--ramparts that kept many enemies at bay when Chartres was a -power in the kingdom of France. Here and there parts of these defences -are still standing, and one fragment in particular forms the foundations -of an old convent. Another remnant of the old fighting days is the Porte -Guillaume, one of the city gates, built when the march of the English -forced every French town to keep itself under bolt and bar. Two round -towers, embattled and machicolated, flank a low archway, and to complete -the medival effect, the ancient fosse still remains before the gate, -not grass-grown or choked with rubbish, but filled with a clear stream, -just as it might have been in old days. - -[Illustration: CHARTRES FROM THE NORTH] - -Autricum of the Carnutes held an important position in Gaul, ranking -very near the great capital of the Senones. In pre-Christian times it -was a famous Druidic centre; but with the advance of Christianity, -Savinian and Potentian, the patron saints of Sens, extended their -mission to Chartres, converted the inhabitants, and built their first -church, according to tradition, upon a Druid grotto. Later on, the town -passed into the possession of a line of counts, who were a very powerful -factor in medival France. The first Theobald or Thibaut is said to have -purchased his domain from the sea-king Hasting, who had penetrated -beyond the coast and colonised the lands around the river Eure. His son -and successor, Thibaut le Tricheur, lived in a state of constant war -with Normandy, and seems to have been regarded as a kind of evil -influence by the old Norman chroniclers, whose hero in Thibaut's day was -naturally their own Richard the Fearless. Another of the line was the -famous Odo, whose ambition went beyond his own states of Chartres and -Blois, and aimed at kingship in Burgundy and even in Italy. Through the -greater part of his reign he carried on also the struggle with Normandy -which had raged so fiercely in Thibaut's time, besides the standing war -with the Angevin line, represented by Fulk the Black. It was, as Freeman -says, the fact of this common enemy in the house of Chartres which first -brought Anjou and Normandy into direct contact and perhaps laid the -foundations of Anjou's subsequent connection with England. Chartres, -like Nevers, was made a duchy under Franois Ier; later it passed -into the Orlans family, whose nominal appanage it has remained ever -since, the eldest son bearing to this day the title of "Duc de -Chartres." It is also interesting to notice that Henri de Navarre broke -the long succession of coronations at Rheims by being crowned King of -France in Chartres Cathedral, three years after the town had opened its -gates to his army in 1591. Some three hundred years later another enemy -appeared outside the walls, and once again Chartres found itself in the -hands of a foreign power. Mr. Cecil Headlam, in his very interesting -"Story of Chartres," gives a description of the Prussian occupation, -part of which may be quoted here as showing the foresight of the Mayor, -who in this terrible time, when the whole French nation seemed utterly -demoralised, thought rather of the safeguard of the city and its one -great monument, than of the doubtful and dearly-won glory of a -protracted defence. - -"It was on Friday, September 30, 1870, that the Prussian soldiers -appeared for the first time near Chartres. Three weeks later Chteaudun -fell, after a desperate and heroic defence, for which that picturesque -and ancient town paid the dear price of failure. Two days later the -enemy marched in force upon Chartres. The _tirailleurs_ and _mobiles_ -and troops of the National Guard, who endeavoured to defend the town, -after vain marching and counter-marching, with the same generous ardour -and utter ineffectiveness as had distinguished the movements of the -other armies before the disasters of Wissembourg, Wrth and Sedan, -returned exhausted. Without firing a shot they had been rendered -incapable of fighting. Fighting in any case would have been useless. It -was wisely decided to capitulate, and on the 21st the Mayor and Prefect -of the Department drove out to Morancez to save the city and Cathedral, -by surrendering them to General von Wittich, from the inevitable -destruction of which Chteaudun had given them a terrible example. What -they saw on their way of the French defence and the Prussian advance -convinced civilians and military men alike that it was impossible to -hope to defend Chartres." - -At the head of the Rue St. Jean, where it leads into the Place du -Chtelet, one obtains the first and best view of the two beautiful -spires at the west end of the Cathedral. The southern tower, dating back -to the twelfth century and conceived in a style which harmonises with -the broad and massive design of the whole building, is an example of -what was contemplated as a finish to the other towers of the Cathedral. -The northern tower, built in 1507 by Jean le Texier, well deserves its -reputation as the most beautiful Gothic spire ever designed. "The one, -fashioned by the Byzantine chisel, sprang into complete being in the -heroic ages of faith in the days of war ... the other rose, after a long -peace, under the hands of the still Christian architects of the -Renaissance, when all dangers and difficulties had been surmounted." - -On contemplating the plan on which Chartres Cathedral was built one is -struck with the enormous space which has been allotted to the choir. -Here the new religious cult finds its earliest expression, greater -provisions are made for its ceremonials, larger spaces are given both in -choir and transepts for its gorgeous ritual than we find in Paris, -Soissons or Lon. Bishops, priests, deacons, choristers and serving-men -needed a wider platform for the ministration of the sacred rites of the -Church, and especially to this end was the Cathedral planned out. It is -said that its construction was carried out with incredible rapidity in -the desire to meet the pressing requirements of the people, who demanded -that the Cathedral should be not only the house of prayer for the bishop -and his canons, but essentially the mother church of the humblest of her -worshippers. - -The prevalence of a style, more or less uniform, with its main -attributes harmonious and congruous, is the resultant of these forces -working together. The completion of the Cathedral was carried out about -1240, and in 1250 were added the two porches at the entrance to the -transepts. The sacristy was built in the thirteenth century, and a -century later the little chapel of Saint Piat was attached to the -eastern apse. The shortness of the nave is attributed to the desire to -utilise the foundations of the old crypt for the choir and not to extend -the building farther westward than the two existing towers. Between -these two points, the walls of the crypt and the western towers, the -nave had to be constructed and without any possibility of further -extension. - -[Illustration: CHARTRES] - -No less than nine spires were originally designed and their towers -actually commenced. What a magnificent effect would have been produced -had they been completed! Standing on the high ground of the city, -Chartres with its clustering pinnacles would have been one of the -wonders of Christendom. The magnificent glass of the thirteenth century -is so deep in tone that upon entering the building one is conscious of a -darkness that can almost be felt, so much at variance with the effect of -the interior of most large French Cathedrals. - -The two porches placed outside the transept doors are the subject of a -panegyric from the pen of Viollet-le-Duc. He considers them as the most -beautiful and harmonious additions ever made to an existing building, -and their architects proved themselves to be artists of the very first -rank. No more beautiful specimen of a portal of the thirteenth century -can elsewhere be found to exist; glorious and rejoicing in colour and in -gold, and of surpassing sculpture and full of impressive and solemn -statuary. - -[Illustration: RUE DE LA PORTE GUILLAUME, CHARTRES] - -Near Chartres there are two small towns which might well be taken in a -day's excursion; both are connected with Chartres historically and both -have a certain interest of their own certainly not devoid of attraction -to one in search of antiquities. One is Chteaudun, whose fall during -the war of 1870 was, as has been quoted above, the signal for the -surrender of Chartres; the other is Vendme, the township of the ancient -feudal county. From Chartres it is Chteaudun that lies first in our -road. It is a straight, neat little town--most of the streets cut one -another at right angles--and the smoke of the Franco-Prussian war still -seems to hover about the place; one of its chief memories, indeed, is -the great fight in October, 1870, when a bare thousand _franc-tireurs_ -of the national guard kept the town for half a day against a Prussian -army of ten times their strength, and the quiet market-square--now -called the Place du 18 Octobre--was transformed into a battle-field. All -the heroism that the day called forth, however, could not save the town -from being sacked and burnt--the last of a long series of -conflagrations, lasting from the sixth to the nineteenth century, that -has won for the little town its cheerful, hopeful motto: "Extincta -revivisco." Certainly Chteaudun has risen from the flames with a fresh -lease of its quiet life, but it has been completely modernised, and -except for a few narrow alleys sloping down towards the river, which -would seem to have escaped the general devastation, there is little that -does not belong to to-day. This is, however, making an exception of the -Chteau overlooking the Loire; a great exception, since at present all -that there is to see in Chteaudun consists in this square pile on the -brow of the hill; the rest, whatever it may once have been, is only a -memory; and even the Chteau itself hardly seems a part of the town, -since it is not until we have left the little white-painted streets -behind that we realise its existence, and then it comes as a gigantic -surprise; a huge, square, turreted mass, on its platform of rock, -looking away over the rolling meadow lands, untroubled through all the -years of siege and conflagration. Thibaut le Tricheur, Count of -Champagne, built it in the tenth century; it was rebuilt in the twelfth -century, and again by its seigneur, the famous "Bastard of Orlans," one -of the most devoted followers of Joan the Maid. Finally, under Louis -XII., Franois d'Orlans-Longueville applied himself to fresh -renovations, and built the splendid faade overhanging the Loire. - -Considering that the Duc de Vendme has always been a title of some -importance in France since the early part of the sixteenth century, and -the Comtes de Vendme a power in the feudal world before that, one -might feel rather surprised not to find the town itself presenting a -more imposing aspect. Vendme is a picturesque place, but it is more of -a long straggling village than anything else, and it is only the ivied -ruins on the cliff that take one back--with a stretch of imagination, it -must be confessed--to the days of feudalism. Vendme was originally, it -is thought, a Gallic township under the name of Vindocinum; it was then -fortified by the Romans, evangelised by Saint Bienheur, and finally -became the seat of a feudal count about the end of the tenth century. In -1030 was founded the abbey of La Trinit, whose church is one of the -first "monuments" of Vendme. It dates from the thirteenth and fifteenth -centuries; the beautiful Transition faade is well worth notice, and so -is the belfry tower, separated from the church and tapering up to a tall -stone spire. Inside the church there are some fine choir stalls of the -fifteenth century, of which the carving of the _misricordes_ is very -interesting in its variety and quaintness of design. - -The Loire at Vendme divides into several small streams, and in walking -through the town one appears continually to be crossing a succession of -bridges and coming upon fresh pictures of clear green water fringed by -low-roofed houses and dark _lavoirs_ with their curtains of snowy linen. -Outside the town the river winds smoothly away past the cool quiet of -the public gardens, to join its tributaries and cut its silver channels -through the distant water-meadows. - -"The route lay along the plateau until the heights were reached which -enclose the valley of the Loir; the road winds down to the river beside -hanging woods, red with autumn leaves not yet fallen, and crowned with a -ridge of firs. A corner is turned and Vendme comes in sight, lying -beneath the shelter of the old ruined castle on the hill. As the -horsemen enter the town the people all come to the doors of their houses -and gaze with every sign of interested curiosity. There is an anxious -expression in their faces. They do not welcome, though they obey their -visitors with alacrity. They bring forth bread and meat and wine, and -lay the tables for breakfast, but good cheer they have none to -give."--_The Times_: "Prussian Occupation of Vendme." - - - - -Chapter Twelve - -ORLANS, BOURGES, AND NEVERS - - -"The thought that the name of the city itself is most likely to call up -is that of the Maid who, born far away from Orlans, has taken its name -as a kind of surname.... We have got into a way of thinking ... as if -Orlans had its chief being as the city of the Maid." Orlans certainly -does share with Rouen the chief honours of association with Joan of Arc, -the "Victrix Anglorum," as she is described on a memorial tablet in the -Cathedral, and the town is equally full of monuments to her memory, -though the memory in this case is that of a great triumph, whereas at -Rouen it marks the last stage, captivity and death. - -Orlans was the key of central and southern France, and if the English -once got possession of it they would certain overrun all the land south -of the Loire; hence its importance to France as a stronghold. Joan set -out from Blois late in April, 1429, in charge of a convoy of provisions -for the beleaguered city, and arrived opposite the town, on the left -bank of the Loire. - -From November to the end of April the English had lain before the town, -and, although the inhabitants were not actually starving, provisions -were very scanty, and the bringing in of fresh supplies was practically -an impossibility, since the usual means of approach, the bridge across -the Loire, was blocked by the enemy, who occupied the outstanding -fortress of Les Augustins at the bridge, and on the right bank. On the -Orlans bank the English had built several strong _bastilles_, guarding -the city and effectually preventing any communication by means of the -western highways. The weak spot was on the east side, where the -besiegers had one stronghold only, the fortress of Saint Loup; and from -this point Dunois, the general-in-chief, and La Hire, the leader of -Joan's army, intended to effect an entrance; but the Maid herself, with -that love of directness which characterises her whole career, desired to -attack the English, not at their strongest, but at their weakest point. -Both wind and stream were against their ferrying over to Saint Loup; and -in the end Joan's simple tenacity and childish belief in the counsel of -her "voices" carried the day. The army was sent back to Blois, there to -cross to the right bank and attack Orlans from the west, and meanwhile -she herself, the wind having turned, crossed in a boat by night and -entered the town with La Hire and Dunois. She was hailed by the people -of Orlans as an angel of deliverance, and lodged in the house of the -treasurer Boucher, near the Porte Regnart at the north-west angle of the -city walls; and from this vantage point Joan watched the enemy's -movements, appearing from time to time upon the ramparts and bidding -defiance to the English, who, as was perhaps natural, retorted by -showering insults upon her. On May 4 she rode out in full state to meet -her army which had arrived from Blois. Three days later the great fight -began. All this time the English troops had scarcely moved a finger to -hinder the French operations, but when the enemy crossed the river by a -bridge of boats and made a feint of attacking the fortress on the left -bank, retreating apparently in confusion, the English sallied forth -after them, thus provoking a real attack upon the bridge fort. During -the fray the girl-leader was wounded; never for a moment did she give -in, but stood in the fosse grasping the white banner--sword she would -not wield--and cheering on her companions; with the result that by -nightfall the position was gained, the English were driven out, and Joan -returned in triumph into Orlans by the bridge. The greater part of -her victory was now accomplished. On the following day the French forces -marched outside the walls of the town to meet the English line; but -Talbot and his men had not reckoned with what they, in the superstition -of their time, believed to be "a force not of this world," and the -morning light shone upon their helmets and spears in full retreat -towards the north. France was saved, and a clear field was left for -Charles the Dauphin--the gates of his kingdom were flung open wide, that -he might enter in and possess it. - -[Illustration: ORLANS] - -But the greatness of Orlans belongs to an earlier day, before Joan -heard the voices in the Domrmy meadows, probably before Domrmy ever -existed. It was Attila the Hun who indirectly brought the town up the -ladder of fame. Aurelianum in the fifth century was a desirable -stronghold, and as such, Attila spied it afar from his Asiatic plains, -and set out to conquer, and, as one authority has it, to "vainly -besiege" it, though Freeman inclines to the opinion that "the business -of West Goth and Roman was, in the end, not to keep them (the Huns) out, -but to drive them out." However that may be, Attila was eventually -forced to give up his project, and Aurelianum emerged from the struggle -glorious and triumphant, to become the seat and stronghold of kings, -and, until its union with Paris in 613, the capital of a separate -kingdom. Since then it has been the scene of siege, martyrdom and -persecution, down to the days of the Franco-Prussian war, when it -finished an eventful history by a Prussian occupation in October, 1870, -a sequel to the battles of Patay and Bonbay. - -Orlans is beautifully placed on a hillside overlooking the Loire. With -this physical advantage, and its long list of historical associations, -one cannot help feeling that it might have done better for itself, and -have become more than just a quiet, unobtrusive and rather dull city, -with all its monuments easily attainable. The Cathedral is an example of -the last lingering phase of Gothic architecture, and was rebuilt, so we -are told--after its destruction by the Huguenots--during the interval -between 1600 and 1829. The building as a mass has great merit, for the -architects have made an effort to clothe it with dignity, and one feels -that the church itself is conceived in a spirit to make it, certainly at -a distance, not unworthy of the stronghold of Clovis and his successors. - -[Illustration: THE HOUSE OF JACQUES CoeUR, BOURGES] - -The train which we took from Orlans to Bourges was slow enough to -enable us to look out, almost as easily as from a _voiture_, at the -richly wooded country. Here and there a small pyramidal church tower -peeps out from the trees, but, as a rule, there is little sign of -life in this pleasant country, and even the fields and the gorse-covered -commons are bare of sheep and cattle. This _train-d'omnibus_, in -discharge of its functions as a mail train, distributed letter-bags at -every station. Here were waiting young girls acting as postmistresses, -many of whom had come from a considerable distance, having ridden on -bicycles, bare-headed, in the scorching sun, along dusty roads, to -deliver up their heavy loads and to enjoy a chat with the travelling -postman, who was evidently welcomed by them as bringing all the latest -bits of gossip along the line. - -About a mile away there is a very beautiful view of the town, and the -general effect is a grey one. Roofs and houses--the latter perhaps -originally built of yellow-white stone--have all weathered to a -beautiful grey, and there is an air of medivalism about the place. -Bourges, indeed, like many other towns in France, goes back to early -days for its greatness, and belongs far more to the past than to the -present. The fifteenth century saw it at the height of its fame as a -king's residence; Charles VII., perhaps finding the more northerly towns -too hot for him during the English occupation, took up his abode there -and became for the time being "King of Bourges"; and Louis XI. founded a -university in the town. - -Here was born the famous Bourdaloue, and Boucher, the painter of -Versailles before "le Dluge," Boucher who was - - "a Grasshopper, and painted-- - Rose-water Raphael--_en couleur de rose_, - The crowned Caprice, whose sceptre, nowise sainted, - Swayed the light realms of ballets and bon-mots; - Ruled the dim boudoir's _demi-jour_, or drove - Pink-ribboned flocks through some pink-flowered grove," - -and who now, his Grasshopper days ended, lies buried beside his mother -in the Church of Saint Bonnet. - -[Illustration: BOURGES] - -Perhaps the principal interest of old Bourges centres in the name of -Jacques Coeur, the merchant prince, "a Vanderbilt or a Rothschild of -the fifteenth century," who in his days of prosperity built a great -house on the hill-side where his native town stands. Coeur, we are -told, founded the trade between France and the Levant; later he became -Master of the Mint in Paris, and one of the Royal Commissioners to the -Languedoc Parliament. He was three times sent on an embassy to foreign -powers, notably to Pope Nicholas V. Charles VII., weak, unstable, and -always in need of money, relied on him absolutely, but with the usual -characteristics of a weak master, was one of the first to desert and -despoil him of his wealth when occasion offered. The beginning of the -end came through a disgraceful and apparently quite unfounded accusation -against Coeur at the time of the death of the famous Agnes Sorel, whom -he was accused of poisoning. Jacques was too prosperous not to have -enemies, and these were, as usual, prompt to use every opportunity -against him. The first steps taken, calumnies of all kind poured in to -defame the man whom France had once delighted to honour, and the rest of -his career is a strange mixture of exile, mysterious captivity, and -equally mysterious escape, honourable reception in Rome, and friendship -with the Pope; the last scene of all, perhaps the strangest and most -foreign to all idea of a peaceful, prosperous merchant--for here we see -him in command, not of a fleet of trading ships laden with merchandise, -but of vessels of war sent against the Turks by Pope Calixtus III. -Rumour has it that, far from dying in poverty and sorrow, Jacques -Coeur, at the end of his life, had acquired greater riches than when -at the zenith of his fame in France, but the fact remains that he died -in exile, with a cloud over his memory which was not cleared away until -many years after, when popular favour again smiled on his name, and he -became, what he remains to this day, the citizen-hero of Bourges. - -There is a very charming description--too long to quote here--in Mr. -Henry James' "Little Tour in France" of the house of Jacques Coeur; -and one point of interest attaching to it is that it is built upon the -old defences of the town, and at the back are many considerable remains -of solid Roman bastions. - -It is one of the most beautiful types of a fifteenth-century town-house -that can possibly be imagined--a veritable remnant of the ancient -prosperity of Bourges, of a time when such houses were no uncommon -feature in the streets--when men who had made their fame and fortune -loved to build for themselves a beautiful home in their native town, and -enrich it with every conceivable ornament. Modern _nouveaux riches_ -indeed do the same, though perhaps not in their native place, where -their memory as butcher or baker might, in their eyes, tell against -them; but the difference between their "mansions" and the hotel of -Jacques Coeur is the difference between an age when the Renaissance -was in its early freshness and an age when it has suffered the -degradations of many modern horrors in the style that is popularly -designated "handsome." No one looking upon the delicate sculptures, the -wonderful wood carving, the courtyard with its cloister, the lovely -porticos and galleries, can doubt the taste of the man who built and -lived in this "maison pleine de mystres." - -[Illustration: THE MUSE CUJAS, BOURGES] - -The Cathedral of Bourges, which, as Freeman points out, is essentially -French, although at the head of the Aquitanian churches, is well seen in -approaching the town, where it rises above a base of grey tiles and warm -white walls--a long flank of choir and nave, unbroken by transepts. The -thrust of the heavy vaulting is stopped by a perfect forest of flying -buttresses, between whose walls are built chapels, either for chantries -or family monuments. From inside the town it is not much in evidence -until one ascends the Rue Royale, where one comes upon it quite -unexpectedly at the end of what Mr. Henry James calls a "short vague -lane," somewhat in the same manner as one comes upon St. Paul's bursting -into view at the top of Cheapside. - -The absence of transepts accounts naturally for the want of any central -tower or lantern, and as there are no heavy transept pillars supporting -the arches at the crossing, to intercept the view, the elevation of the -Host is visible to every worshipper, and the eye travels in one sweep -through nave and choir to the beautifully jewelled windows of rich old -glass, ranging from the twelfth to the seventeenth century. The east -terminal vaulting springs so low as to mask part of the side-lights of -the apse. This is also very noticeable in the east end of Sens -Cathedral, the beauty of whose windows is marred by the vaults cutting -across the heads of the lights. At Bourges, however, the spandril or -cheek of the vault is pierced by a foliated light, showing a certain -amount of the window behind, and thus taking away the appearance of -depression in the low springing vaulting of the apse. - -It is easily recognised that in point of historical importance Nevers, -in comparison with some of its neighbours, dwindles almost into -insignificance, and to the traveller coming from Orlans and Bourges, -fresh from the scene of the triumphs of Joan of Domrmy, and from the -seats of French kings when France was at the height of her power, there -may be a slight sense of disappointment at not finding the same -historical "lions" at Nevers. History, though not passing over the town -entirely, has only touched it with a gentle hand, and Nevers, though -possessed of plenty of material for making itself a name, has never -really risen very far above being the capital of the Nivernais. It -existed in Roman days under the Celtic name of Noviodunum; Csar made -use of it as a military dept in his Gallic campaign, and thought the -town was of sufficient importance to be a storehouse for the imperial -treasure; its countship dates from the tenth century, and it became the -seat of a bishop, although later than many of the Auvergne cities. Yet -the counts of Nevers never made a stir in the world, as did Odo and -Thibaut of Chartres, or the Fulks and Geoffreys of Angers, and nowhere -on its ecclesiastical roll do we find a name like Hilary of Poitiers or -Martin of Tours. Despite these early deficiencies, however, Nevers has -much to interest the casual visitor, and there are four principal -attractions--the Cathedral of St. Cyr, the Romanesque church of St. -Etienne, the ducal palace (now the Palais de Justice), and the Porte du -Croux. - -[Illustration: THE HTEL-DE-VILLE, NEVERS] - -The early church of St. Etienne, begun in 1063, is a fine example of a -Romanesque building. It is also a very severe example, with a nave of -round-headed pier arches, double-arcaded triforium and small clerestory -lights. The bays of the nave are modified in the choir by the pier -arches being stilted, by a small triple-lighted triforium, and by more -importance being given to the clerestory windows. There are, also, -monolithic columns and hollow-necked capitals, which are unusual in -France. The church is covered by a barrel vault, the crossing of the -transepts being crowned by a dome. Mr. Spiers, in his book on -"Architecture East and West," says: "The French builders of the South of -France have always had the credit of being the originators of the barrel -vault, with its stone or tile roof, absolutely incombustible, lying -direct on the vault; to them also, I contend now, we owe the -development of the dome, with its pendentives set out in a manner -peculiar to themselves, and in no way corresponding to those found in -the East." - -The Cathedral of St. Cyr is the only church in France--with the -exception of Besanon--which possesses an apse at both the east and west -ends. St. Gall in Switzerland, Mittelzall, Laack and many other German -churches show this remarkable plan of a western tribune or paradise. In -some instances it was used as a tomb-house, with entrance from without -by means of a staircase. In the old basilicas, however, the tribune was -not unfrequently at the west end, so that the officiating priest could -at the same time face the east and also his congregation. The crypt at -the west end, with its fine Romanesque capitals, is very interesting, -and dates from the early part of the eleventh century, being about -contemporary with that of the Cathedral of Auxerre. The original church, -with its two transept arches of the same date, was lengthened eastwards -in the thirteenth century, and later on had the further addition made of -a choir with an apsidal termination; the chancel and nave are not -separated by transepts, but the two merge quietly into each other by -simple contact. - -[Illustration: PORTE DU CROUX, NEVERS] - -One afternoon, while contemplating this strange church, our attention -was diverted from arch and apse by the rustle of a small bridal -procession entering by a side door and being received by a priest who -was waiting at an altar in one of the chapels. After some formalities of -examining the certificate of civil registry, the ceremony began; and it -was very interesting in its brevity and friendliness. In the English -church the priest addresses the principals, with a kind of austere -familiarity, by their Christian names, be they princes or paupers. But -here such a liberty is rendered impossible by the natural social -politeness of the French, and the contracting parties are reminded of -their marriage obligations under the courteous appellations of Monsieur -and Mademoiselle. - -The ducal palace is quite close to the Cathedral. "We find," Freeman -says, "the two great central objects, State and Church, sitting -becomingly side by side." The ducal days of Nevers date only from the -end of the sixteenth century, when Franois Ier, with his usual love -of display, bestowed a peerage upon the Nivernais. Before this its -feudal overlords went by the more medival title of count, and the -palace (built a century before the count became a duke) has reared -itself upon the foundation of their ancient stronghold. The fourth -attraction of Nevers, the high square gateway tower known as the Porte -du Croux, may also be regarded as a relic of feudal days, seeing that -it dates from 1398, and was evidently part of the town's defences. It is -a noble specimen of medival defence, a tall gateway tower, protected, -like the Porte Guillaume at Chartres, by its ancient fosse--long lancet -openings running up above a low round archway and two pointed turrets -flanking the hatchet-shaped central roof, with the treacherous line of -machicolation below. In the middle of the sixteenth century Nevers -passed to an Italian master, one of the Gonzagas of Mantua, from whom, a -hundred years later, Mazarin bought it back again, and left it at his -death to the Mancini family, who held it until the Revolution. - -Most French towns nowadays fill their shops with a display of local -pottery, good, bad and indifferent; the industry of Nevers, however, is -an old-established one, dating from the occupation of these very -Gonzagas, who came from a land where the faence industry, as well as -glass-blowing, was fully developed as a fine art, and who founded in -their domain a school of artists which should teach their secrets to -France. The industry has remained in the town ever since, and some of -the modern work is very charming, with its curious trade-sign, the -little green arabesque knot or _noeud vert_, which some fanciful -spirit designed for the sign of Nevers. - - - - -Chapter Thirteen - -MOULINS, LIMOGES, AND PRIGUEUX - - -From Nevers an expedition to Moulins is quite practicable, and the -traveller _en route_ to Limoges may think it worth his while to pay a -visit to this town, which stands as a monument to the fallen house of -Bourbon. In the fourteenth century the dukes of Bourbon made Moulins -their residence, and stayed there until the desertion of the Constable -to the cause of Charles V., when the city was annexed by the French -king, Franois Ier, in an access of righteous indignation. The "Tour -de l'Horloge," which is the main feature of the town, and looks more -like a Dutch belfry than a French design, formed part of the old chteau -belonging to this same Constable; and it may be supposed that not only -were his lands confiscated, but his castle destroyed, by way of -punishment for his alliance with the English king and the German -emperor. - -The story of this Constable de Bourbon is an interesting one. He -belonged to the Montpensier branch of the Bourbon family, and in 1505 -married Suzanne de Beaujeu, heiress of the reigning line, so that the -title of duke and the rich Bourbon estates passed into his possession, -and therewith Charles became one of the most brilliant figures in an age -of brilliancy and magnificence. His handsome person and military talents -had even in early youth gained him a place amongst the foremost -gentlemen of France; but his marriage brought him such an access of -wealth and influence that even Louis XII. trembled for the safety of his -throne, and refused to risk any increase in his popularity by giving him -command of the Italian army. In 1515, however, when the Duc d'Angoulme -came to the throne as Franois Ier, Bourbon was made Constable of -France, and for a time seemed to have attained to all that Fortune could -give him. He was the close friend of the king, and in an era of lavish -display that came with the first Franois, and did not wholly disappear -until it was swept away by the hand of the Revolution, no favours seemed -too great, no honours too high, for the brilliant and much-envied -favourite. To such a height did Charles de Bourbon reach, that one can, -indeed, hardly wonder at his fall, which was bound to come sooner or -later, and when it did come was all the greater, all the swifter, from -the very might of his power at court. The mischief arose in the first -place through the jealousy of the king's mother--reports and scandals -were in the air, and Franois was not slow to take note of them--and of -the growing distrust of his favourite at court. Quarrels arose between -King and Constable. Presently the evil reports took definite shape, and -grew into the grossest of insults; and as soon as it was seen that -Bourbon had lost the King's favour all tongues were loosened against -him. Added to these troubles, he was engaged in a lawsuit with the -mother of Franois, the Duchess d'Angoulme, who on the death of his -wife Suzanne claimed the heirship to all his estates and fortune. As may -be imagined, on the principle of striking a fallen man, the case went -against him, and the great duke found himself friendless and penniless, -with large sums owing to him from the State, but with little hope of -payment. Men in those days were not over-chivalrous, and the idea of -clinging still to an ungrateful, ungenerous sovereign who had cast him -off like an old glove did not commend itself to a nature like that of -Charles de Montpensier. He resolved, since France would have none of -him, to try his fortune with Germany, and accordingly joined the cause -of Charles V., to whom for a time he gave his best service, and then, -finding the imperial promises, too, like the proverbial pie-crust, -determined to carve out honours for himself and find a kingdom in -Italy. He marched to Rome with a division under his command, and made a -bold attack upon the city walls, but an arrow from the ramparts, shot, -so one story goes, by Benvenuto Cellini, the famous sculptor and court -musician to the Pope, put an end to his ambition, and the Constable died -in harness outside the walls of Rome at the very outset of his gallant -attempt to cast off the yoke of kings and make his fortune by his own -sword. - -Of Bourbon's chteau there remains only the tower bearing the curious -name of the Mal-Coiffe, and a Renaissance pavilion--an appendage found -in the castle of every great noble of this time. - -In the eleventh century Moulins was one of the more southerly fortresses -to hold out against William of Normandy. It had been commanded by a -certain Wimund, who surrendered it to Henry, the French king. As an -important outpost it was garrisoned strongly and put under the command -of Guy of Geoffrey, Count of Gascony, presently to become William VIII. -of Aquitaine. The Norman duke, however, was advancing upon Arques, which -was within an ace of surrender from hunger, and with little difficulty -he obtained terms from the garrison. News of this defeat soon flew to -Moulins, and its commander seems to have been instantly seized with an -access either of panic or of prejudice--the two bore a curious -relation in those days--and without giving the Normans time so much as -to come within sight of the town, he withdrew his garrison and left -Moulins with all speed. - -[Illustration: MOULINS] - -The Cathedral at Moulins has a curious misfit of nave and chancel. The -former is of the thirteenth century, with a high clerestory and rather -low triforium arches; the latter is Flamboyant, with a flat wall -termination to the east end, and seems to have been built without any -regard to the pre-existing nave; at any rate, the main piers do not -meet, and a small bay of no particular style is introduced literally as -a stop-gap. - -An excellent hotel--the "Central"--makes Limoges a convenient -stopping-place on the southern road, irrespective of its attractions to -those interested in faence and enamel work; but there are plenty of -other interests within the town, and Limoges may, indeed, speak for -itself in this respect, by reason of its standing on a hill, overlooking -a river, and containing, in the old quarter at least, ancient houses and -crooked streets enough to satisfy any craving for the picturesque. The -town slopes up a hill rising from the Vienne, and really divides into -two distinct parts, _ville_ and _cit_; the _ville_ is the newer town -straggling up the slope, while the _cit_, the original camping-ground -of the Lemovices, occupies the quarter near the river. So distinct were -these two in the Middle Ages that we even read of war between them as -between two separate states, the _ville_ led by the abbot of Saint -Martial, the _cit_ by the bishop. The great church of the river quarter -is the Cathedral of Saint Etienne, built, so tradition has it, upon the -remains of a former church erected by Saint Martial, and dating from -1273-1327, with a few later alterations. The west end terminates in the -substructure of an old Romanesque campanile, resting on pillars. "The -lowest story," says Freeman, "after a fashion rare but not unique, stood -open. Four large columns with their round arches supported a kind of -cupola." Under the choir is a crypt, dating from the eleventh century, -and thus at each end of the later church is a relic of an older time. - -Limoges had formerly been favourable to the English, but since the dukes -of Berri and Bourbon had laid siege to the town, and had been aided by -Bertrand du Guesclin, the inhabitants, including the bishop and the -governor, gave up their somewhat wavering allegiance and turned to -France. On hearing of this defection the Prince of Wales flew into a -great passion and "swore by the soul of his father, which he had never -perjured, that he would not attend to anything before he had punished -Limoges; and that he would make the inhabitants pay dearly for their -treachery." The price they had to give was the safety of their city. -Edward marched upon Limoges from Cognac with a large force; but the new -masters had garrisoned the town so strongly that it was impossible to -take it by assault. He therefore resolved upon another and a more -terrible way. He undermined the fortifications, and set fire to the -mine, so that a great breach was made. Froissart describes the -inhabitants of the town as very repentant of their treachery, but adds -poignantly that their penitence did little good, now that they were no -longer the masters; and certainly it was not rewarded by mercy. The -English troops rushed into the breach and poured down the narrow -streets, massacring right and left, plundering and burning, sparing -neither women nor children; and when the Prince at last turned back to -Cognac, he left behind him ruin and desolation where, a few days before, -had been strength and prosperity. During this terrible time the Church -of Saint Etienne happily escaped from damage, although all the rest of -the old town--"old" even in 1370--seems to have been destroyed. An -interesting reminder of more modern history remains in the name of one -of the streets. The Cathedral is connected with the Place Jourdan by -the "Rue du 71^{ime} Mobiles"; and this street is so named in -recognition of the valour shown by this regiment in the field, and in -the memory of those killed during the Prussian war. It is an assurance -that their heroism and endurance in a hopeless struggle are not -forgotten, and that an equal devotion to their country will be shown, -should the need arise, by succeeding generations of their -fellow-citizens. Monuments are not readily subscribed for, nor are -places where they may be erected easily found. A permanent testimony to -the gallant services of a regiment might be borne by calling a street -after its name. London accorded a great welcome to its volunteers at the -termination of the Boer war. Is there any street or place called after -the name of the City Imperial Volunteers? - -[Illustration: LIMOGES] - -In a cathedral city like Limoges, where the church itself has a good -deal of interest and the town is not devoid of attraction, one is not -readily inclined to place its industrial interests very high on the list -of things to be seen; yet the fact remains that in this particular place -the chief industry is closely bound up with the town's history. The -Limoges school of enamel workers had attained celebrity as early as the -twelfth century, when the _champ-lev_, or engraving process, was in -vogue, the ground-work of the plates consisting of graven copper and -the cavities filled in with enamel. This kind of work may well be seen -in Westminster Abbey upon the tomb of Aymer de Valence, Earl of -Pembroke. In the fourteenth century France borrowed from Italy the art -of transparent enamelling, which the artists at Limoges developed into -enamel-painting, and this branch was carried on at Limoges for upwards -of two centuries, until it fell into decay under Louis XIV. and gave -place to the modern miniature style. - -Under Franois Ier this art of enamel-painting attained to a high -degree of perfection. The sixteenth-century taste inclined always -towards the brilliant and magnificent, and the same love of display and -richness which showed both in dress and in architecture found also -expression in the art of enamelling. One of the most famous artists of -this school came from Limoges, whence he was known as Lonard Limousin. -His work became the pattern of excellence after which all lesser artists -strove. "While some of the works were executed in brilliant colours, -most of them were in monochrome. The background was generally dark, -either black or deep purple, and the design was painted _en grisaille_, -relieved, in the case of figure subjects, by delicate carnation. The -effect was occasionally heightened by appropriate touches of gold, and -in many of the coloured enamels brilliancy was obtained by the use of -silver foil, or paillon, placed beneath a transparent enamel." - -At Prigueux we seem to have left Northern France in the far distance -and to have taken the first definite step into the Midi. The -architectural pilgrim as he wanders southward is conscious of the -existence of two distinct styles, possessing features dissimilar in -construction and design; in one case he finds barrel-vaulted churches, -in another large churches roofed with pointed domes, whose origin it is -difficult to determine. Of the latter type the church of Saint Front is -a notable instance. It rises above the old quarter, which occupies the -centre of the town, the modern portion, quite distinct from the rest, as -was the case at Limoges, sloping up the hill, and the remnant of the old -Roman city fronting the river. The original Vesunna of the Petrocorii -stood on the left bank of the Isle; the Roman Vesunna crossed to the -other side, and is now represented by the ruins of an amphitheatre, -dating from the third century, and some second-century baths. The old -Chteau Barrire is also built on Roman fortifications, and two of the -Roman towers still remain, besides the "Tour de Vsone," which was -probably part of a pagan temple. - -[Illustration: PRIGUEUX FROM THE RIVER] - -It is a curious fact that here the ancient remains of the Roman city -should be so much more prominent than is usually the case. At Bourges we -saw the house of Jacques Coeur built upon a Roman foundation, and many -other places keep, in part at least, their Roman walls; but Prigueux -has Roman remains which absorb quite half the interest aroused by the -city on the Isle--the other half being devoted to the church. From the -site of the Gallic Vesunna, on the left side of the river, the Tour de -Vsone is the foremost object, so old that, as Freeman says, it looks -almost modern. "It is a singular fact that, while a medival building -can scarcely ever be taken for anything modern, buildings of earlier -date often may. The primeval walls of Alatri might at a little distance -be taken for a modern prison, and this huge round, it must be confessed, -has to some not undiscerning eyes suggested the thought of a modern -gasworks." Then the partly medival Chteau Barrire attracts notice, -dating at its latest from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and by -its name recalling one of the noblest families of medival Prigord. - -With the rise of the abbey of Saint Front, a new town arose also, and -the old quarter shrank up within itself, remaining still the abode of -the nobles and gentlemen and the clergy of Saint Etienne, but yielding -the real precedence to the vigorous new _puy_ higher up the hill. -"Here, as in some measure at Limoges, the tables are turned. The _ville_ -stands apart on the hill, with the air of the original _cit_, while the -real _cit_ abides below, putting on somewhat the look of a suburb." -Even Saint Etienne, the old Cathedral-church of La Cit, has, owing to -its partially ruined condition, practically renounced its importance -both in intrinsic position and in external appearance. The great tower, -which once stood at the west end, has gone entirely; the cupolas which -crown each bay show the relation to those at Saint Front, and in place -of the eleventh-century apse stands a flat wall, terminating in a choir -of a century later. - -The church of St. Front is "the only domed church in France with the -Greek cross for its plan." The original building is said to have been -consecrated in 1047 by the Archbishop of Bourges and burnt down in a -great fire in 1120. It was not until after this date that the five-domed -church and the tower on the west side were constructed. "By this time -the Church of Saint Mark at Venice was completed, as far as its main -structure was concerned, and already the panelling of the walls with -marble and the decoration of its vaults and arches with mosaic had made -some progress. It was one of the wonders of Europe, and the idea of -copying its plan and general design would appeal at once to a race of -builders who for more than a century, as I shall prove later on, had -been building domed churches throughout Aquitaine, who were perfectly -acquainted with their own methods of building domes and pendentives, and -therefore would not be obliged to trust to foreign workmen to execute -them."--MR. R. PHEN SPIERS. - -[Illustration: ST. FRONT, PRIGUEUX] - -It would be quite out of our province to follow out Mr. Spiers' -arguments in support of this theory, as it would lead us into the -entangled byways of a discourse on methods of "bedding" and centring -arches and pendentives. Suffice it to say that he clearly points out the -difference which exists between French and Byzantine domes, capitals and -voussoirs and the prevalence of the Aquitaine style, and on this -evidence maintains that French, and not Greek or Venetian architects, -built the abbey church of Saint Front. This conclusion is also supported -by Viollet-le-Duc, who expresses his opinion that Saint Front was -undoubtedly built by a Frenchman who had studied either the actual -Church of Saint Mark at Venice or who had had opportunities of seeing -the design of the Venetian architects. Its general conception, it is -true, was Venetian and quasi-Oriental, but its construction and details -do not recall in any way the decorative sculpture or method of building -which obtained at St. Mark's at Venice. As to the ornament, it belongs -to the late Romanesque style. - -Saint Front must indeed have appeared a strange erection and unique in -conception amongst its sister churches, and no doubt exercised a great -influence over the builders of churches north of the Garonne in the -eleventh and twelfth centuries. The infusion of Oriental art into this -part of the country is explained by the distinguished French -archologist, M. Flix de Verheilh, as partly due to the presence of -Venetian colonies established at Limoges. He says that the commerce of -the Levant was carried into France and into England along trade routes -existing between Marseilles or Narbonne and La Rochelle or Mantes. The -landing of Eastern produce at these ports on the Mediterranean and its -carriage overland to the north-western seaboard of France was rendered -necessary to protect it from the Spanish and Arab pirates who infested -the coasts of Spain and Africa, and also to avoid the risk of storms and -heavy seas of the Straits of Gibraltar. - - - - -Chapter Fourteen - -ANGOULME AND POITIERS - - -Angoulme has at a distance more the appearance of an Italian than of a -French town. The heavy red pantiles, the campanile and dome of the -Cathedral, the little terraces sloping up the hill, all recall the -southern towns; but the river with its fringing poplars finally -proclaims the city's nationality. There is nothing of especial interest -to be seen in the town itself. Angoulme--Ecolisma of the Gauls--has of -course had its history; it suffered pillage by Visigoth and Norman, was -annexed by England, re-taken by France, occupied again by the English, -and finally made over to its rightful sovereign in 1369. - -During the Hundred Years' War Angoulme was in the possession of the -English, and under the governorship of Sir John Norwich surrendered to -France. The Duke of Normandy lay, we are told, "for a very considerable -time" before the town, and the inhabitants waited daily for the Earl of -Derby, who was to relieve them, but who showed no signs of approach. The -French made a raid upon the English cattle under the guidance of the -seneschal of Beaucaire and captured not merely the beasts, who--strange -laxity--were pasturing outside the walls of the town, but several of the -English who rushed out to recover their possessions. Finally the -governor began to lose hope; Derby was nowhere within reach, the French -gave no signs of withdrawal, and worse than all, the townsfolk began to -murmur and to declare as far as they dared for the enemy. Norwich and -his immediate followers found themselves in some danger; but by a clever -stratagem they escaped from surrendering themselves to Normandy. A truce -was called, and under cover of this the governor and his friends sallied -quietly forth from the gates, passed through the entire French army, -without hurt, and took the road to Aiguillon before the enemy had -realised what they were about. Meanwhile the disaffected within the town -readily gave themselves up to the Duke, and received his mercy. - -Here, however, as at Nevers, an up-and-down history has left little mark -upon the town, and Freeman's criticism is no more than the truth: -"Except we went on purpose for the view, we should hardly go to -Angoulme at all." Saint Pierre at Angoulme is another example of the -domed church that we left at Prigueux; but while the cupolas carry on -the same half-Byzantine idea as prevails in Saint Front, the tower at -the north transept brings in a train of thought which is distinctly -Italian; moreover, at Prigueux all five cupolas are well seen from the -outside, whereas here only one appears, to balance, or rather to -contrast with, the north tower. Once inside the church, however, the -other domes appear, roofing over the nave, which is without aisles, -after the manner of the Angevin churches. In its original form the -Cathedral of Saint Pierre was begun early in the twelfth century--about -1120--but it has been twice restored, once in 1654 and once, in the -middle of the last century, by M. Abadie. - -It was planned simply with a nave roofed by four cupolas and a choir -with four radiating apsidal chapels. Later on in the century the love of -building places of worship larger and more suited to the growing desire -for an enriched ceremonial and elaborate ritual resulted in the addition -of transepts surmounted by towers, which gave to the Cathedral of Saint -Pierre at Angoulme the distinction of being one of the first, if not -the first, of domed churches built on the plan of a Latin cross. Of the -two towers only one, the northern tower, exists to this day, the -southern transept being roofed by a flat conical dome. Certain further -additions were made about the same time, such as the western faade with -its sculptured portal. The black lines of the ashlar work, as if ruled -with a lead pencil, detract very much from the impressiveness of the -interior, as they give undue emphasis to the horizontal joints and -arrest the eye in its first natural flight from floor to vault. - -Saint Pierre at Poitiers is a church of a very different description. -Certain characteristics it has which connect it with the Angevin style, -but unlike most of the Angevin churches, it has aisles throughout. From -the outside the appearance is that of a single mass, long and low, and -very wide, for the aisles are nearly as broad as the nave; as at -Bourges, there is no central tower at the crossing; but then at Bourges -we have a great French church, a mighty mass rising sheer up from the -ground, unbroken by any transept; here at Poitiers there are transepts, -but the line of their towers comes below the line of the roof, and the -effect given is one of length without height. Height is also wanting in -the two unfinished and unequal west towers, and the east end literally -falls flat, by reason of its bare terminal wall; the apse, to which one -grows so accustomed in a French church, is seen only from the interior. -It is oblong in plan, showing, as M. Viollet-le-Duc points out, no -sign either of choir or sanctuary. The transepts are more like side -chapels with altars on their eastern walls. There is no sign of northern -influence, and the church is in many of its features unique and without -imitators. Certain details of construction bring it into line with St. -Maurice at Angers; it is an ordinary example of the churches of Poitou, -with their three naves of equal height and Byzantine cupolas. - -[Illustration: ANGOULME] - -To the south of the Cathedral lies what alone would make Poitiers worth -a visit, without the other churches which call for notice--the little -Temple Saint-Jean, said to be the oldest baptistery in France, and -dating probably from the fourth century. Once inside, we can realise the -position of the officiating priest and the place occupied by the rooms -where the converts disrobed themselves and whence they were conducted to -the central basin, fed by a continual stream of water, where stood the -bishop, the typical representative of the first Baptist. Freeman says: -"It is the one monument of the earliest Christian times which lived on, -so to speak, in its own person, and is not simply represented by a later -building on the same site. It is the truest monument of Hilary." - -The name of Poitiers churches really is legion, but there are two more -which should not be passed over--first, Notre-Dame-la-Grande, a -beautiful Romanesque church standing in the market-place, with a long -barrel-vault roof, unbroken by transepts, and terminated by towers -ornamented with "fish-scale" pattern; next the church of Sainte -Radgonde, the queen-saint of the sixth century, wife to the first -Chlothar. She lived among the nuns of her own foundation of the Sainte -Croix, and lies buried in the crypt of her church, which contains also a -marble statue, erected indeed to her memory, but in the likeness of -another queen who had few pretensions to saintliness--Anne of Austria, -mother of Louis XIV. - -Fortunatus also became a monk of Poitiers, that he might at least have -the satisfaction of living near this queen, whom he worshipped. - -The nuns of Sainte Croix went to England and founded there a sisterhood -on the Green Croft near Cambridge, and this priory remained until the -end of the fifteenth century, when the foundation was suppressed by -Bishop Alcock, and became part of the corporation of Jesus College. - -[Illustration: POITIERS] - -It is with a certain feeling of apology toward tradition and childish -days that one leaves to the very last the mention of the Black Prince's -great fight. Not until we have reached fairly mature years do we realise -that Poitiers has a cathedral and a baptistery and many churches; but -there are very few of us who do not associate with the earliest days -of history books the name of the "Battle of Poitiers, 1356." More -properly it is the Battle of Maupertuis, and Freeman indeed denies its -right to "come into the immediate story of the city." - -A short account may not be out of place here, however, since the battle, -whether in or out of Poitiers, does, nevertheless, stand out as a -landmark in the long struggle between English and French. Having stormed -and taken the Castle of Pomerantin, Prince Edward marched downwards -through Anjou and Touraine; and from the scarcity of fodder on the way -he began to conclude that the French king could not be far off. Arrived -at a village near Chauvigny, on the Vienne, he engaged in a skirmish -with some of the enemy, and learned that John's army had marched forward -towards Poitiers; therefore, forbidding any further engagement, he -pushed on with all possible speed, and came up with the French some -leagues from the town, on the plains of Maupertuis. The French king -himself was just about to enter Poitiers, but hearing that the English -had come up and were attacking his rear-guard, he turned back into the -fields and there encamped his forces. Meanwhile the English entrenched -themselves in a well-guarded position between hedges and vineyards, and -waited there until the morning, when John's army rode out into the -plain. "Then might be seen all the nobility of France, richly dressed -out in brilliant armour, with banners and pennons gallantly displayed; -for all the flower of the French nobility were there; no knight or -squire, for fear of dishonour, dared remain at home." At the last moment -an attempt at mediation was made by the Cardinal de Prigord; but as the -French king would listen to no terms save unconditional surrender, which -the English prince refused, his labour was in vain; and the following -day the armies drew up in line of battle. "When the Prince of Wales saw, -from the departure of the Cardinal without being able to obtain any -honourable terms, that a battle was inevitable, and that the King of -France held both him and his army in great contempt, he thus addressed -himself to them: 'Now, my gallant fellows, what though we be a small -company as in regard to the puissance of our enemy, let us not be cast -down therefore, for victory lieth not in the multitude of people, but -where God will send it; if it fortune that the journey be ours, we shall -be the most honoured people of all the world; and if we die in our right -quarrel, I have the king, my father, and brethren, and also ye have good -friends and kinsmen; these shall avenge us. Therefore, for God's sake, I -require you to do your devoirs this day, for if God be pleased and -Saint George, this day ye shall see me a good knight.'" Then the battle -began in earnest, the English shouting "Saint George for Guienne!" The -French answering with "Montjoie Saint Denis!" Froissart gives a very -long and detailed account of the fight in all its part, with lists of -the nobles and knights who were killed and wounded, and in many cases -stories of their several adventures--none of which have place here. It -will be enough to say with the old chronicler himself, that, in spite of -the odds against the Black Prince, "it often happens that fortune in -love and war turns out more favourable and wonderful than could have -been hoped for or expected. To say the truth, this battle which was -fought near Poitiers, in the Plains of Beauvois and Maupertuis, was very -bloody and perilous; many gallant deeds of arms were performed that were -never known, and the combatants on each side suffered much." The rest is -known to every one, the taking of King John of France, the gallant work -of the archers, and the commendation of the Prince by his father, who -had watched the fight from afar. - -Even without the battle the story of Poitiers is a sufficiently varied -one, and connected in a great measure with the story of England, if it -be remembered that Eleanor, wife of our Henry II., was also Countess of -Poitou and brought it to England as part of her dowry; and in English -hands it remained until Philip Augustus saw fit to confiscate all our -French territory in 1204. After the peace of Brtigny Poitou passed to -England once more, only to be surrendered to Bertrand du Guesclin in the -course of the next ten years. Here at Poitiers Charles VII. was -proclaimed King of France; and, in contrast, it is likewise interesting -to note that here also was held a court of inquiry upon the -misdemeanours of Joan of Arc, by whose aid Charles was not only -proclaimed but crowned King. After this the English prestige in France -dwindled to nothing, and therefore the joint history stops at this -point, and the history of Poitou and Poitiers stands for France alone. - - - - -Chapter Fifteen - -LA ROCHELLE AND BORDEAUX - - -La Rochelle calls to mind two things principally: first, the great -resistance of the Huguenots in the sixteenth century, and then the siege -and the expeditions under Buckingham in the early days of Charles I. -These two events are really part of the same struggle for supremacy -between Calvinist and Romanist, only divided by a period of quiescence -under the rule of Henri de Navarre, who, having professed both faiths in -his day, probably knew how to keep the two parties at peace. Before the -religious wars La Rochelle was known as a flourishing and peaceful -seaport town; but no sooner had Cond and Coligny shown their faces -there in 1568 as leaders of the Huguenot faction, than a spirit of -warfare, provocative as well as defensive, seemed to pervade the town, -and even on the high seas the cruisers of La Rochelle were a terror to -the Romanist, since in the cause of the true faith no Huguenot stopped -at piracy and plunder. From this first struggle La Rochelle emerged -with flying colours, but in the days of Richelieu and Buckingham it was -less successful, and traces of its surrender exist to-day in the mole, -cutting off the outer harbour, which Richelieu laid down to prevent the -English fleet from gaining further entrance to the port. - -[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR, LA ROCHELLE] - -The first attack on Buckingham's part was made in the summer of 1627. A -war with France, impending only in 1625, but swift to take definite -shape, was among the inconvenient legacies bequeathed by James I. to his -son. With the utmost difficulty a forced loan was obtained from -Parliament in order to meet the war expenses, and the Duke of Buckingham -was put in command of the fleet which sailed from Portsmouth in June to -the relief of the Huguenots whom Richelieu was besieging in La Rochelle. -This task was not an easy one. Before gaining the harbour the fleet must -pass the fort of Saint Martin on the island of R. This island had been -strongly garrisoned by Richelieu, but the English squadron lay between -the fort and the mainland, cutting off all possibility of relief; and -after being blockaded for nearly two months the French commander -signified to Buckingham his willingness to surrender the next morning. -The duke was in the highest spirits when the welcome news arrived, and -lay down to rest that night with the joyful certainly of carrying all -before him, driving the Cardinal from before the port and entering La -Rochelle in triumph. But the morning broke on a very different picture. -During the night an easterly gale had sprung up and had blown a fleet of -French provision boats over to R, through the very midst of the English -ships; and once more Saint Martin's prepared for defence. Nothing -daunted, Buckingham sent to England for fresh troops, and if the supply -had depended upon the king he might still have gained his victory; but -the Parliament, now a growing power in England, and a power whose growth -was making itself felt, overruled the royal pleasure, and found here the -long-wished for opportunity of crushing out the war, of which the -country was heartily tired, by refusing to grant further supplies. -Probably the fact that Buckingham was no favourite with the people also -helped to turn the scale against him. At any rate a French force came up -before any word was sent from England, and the duke was obliged to -withdraw from La Rochelle with considerable losses. The sequel is well -known. In the following year Charles prorogued his troublesome -Parliament, and once more the favourite set off for Portsmouth, never to -reach France, since the dagger of John Felton put an end to his -ambitions and avenged, so said the English people, his country's -wrongs. Thus La Rochelle was left entirely to the tender mercies of -Richelieu. The Huguenot power was utterly broken by the year's siege -which followed, and La Rochelle found itself despoiled of the prestige -which it enjoyed as the stronghold of the Protestant faith. - -[Illustration: THE HARBOUR OF LA ROCHELLE] - -La Rochelle of to-day is perhaps little known to the casual traveller. -Inland France has so many attractions that most travellers never get so -far as the sea-coast; great churches and great rivers draw them -elsewhere, and if they want sea breezes there is always Trouville or -Etretat ready to hand. Nevertheless, La Rochelle is one of the most -beautiful of sea-ports in France; and this is no faint praise, for all -towns of this kind are bound to have a peculiar charm of their own--that -kind of charm which belongs to a harbour, and the coming and going of -ships, and the open sea beyond. To this the town adds certain -attractions of its own, among which are the beautiful colours of the -boat-sails, and the old grey forts guarding the harbour on either side. -These ancient sentinel towers are relics of the prosperity of La -Rochelle, and date back to a day before Buckingham sailed up to the -port, before the name of Huguenot had ever been heard in France. On the -left hand the Tour Saint-Nicolas, built at the end of the fourteenth -century, raises four round crenellated turrets above the harbour; on -the other side stands the Tour de la Chane, a grim, solid-looking round -fortress; and farther on still may be seen the stone _flche_ of the -Tour de la Lanterne, looking from a distance like the spire of a church. -And the mention of churches brings us naturally to the Cathedral, which, -built in the middle of the eighteenth century, has so very little to say -for itself that one cannot help feeling it to be a poor set-off to the -sea-board of the town; though perhaps it might in any case be useless to -look for beauty of this kind in a town whose inhabitants ranked the -adorning of churches as one of the deadly sins of Rome. This cathedral -was, it is true, built long after La Rochelle had ceased to be a -Huguenot stronghold; but when we remember that the beauty of any former -church would have fallen a victim to the fanatic's hammer, we can -forgive the architect, and cease to mourn for what might have been. The -Cathedral of La Rochelle is not a thing of beauty, but at any rate it -has not displaced anything that might have pleased us better. - -From La Rochelle to Bordeaux the road runs by heavy-leafed plantations -of every kind of tree, notably acacias, whose great size is particularly -apparent to an English eye. Then, as the Bordelais comes nearer, we run -down to the smooth, peaceful Charente, winding quietly through its -meadow lands, not unlike the upper reaches of the Thames, and yet very -unlike in one respect, since the water is completely deserted, and even -in the height of summer few pleasure boats disturb its smooth surface. -Boating as an amusement _per se_ has very little place in the programme -of a French country gentleman, though bathing and fishing are both -included in it; and the same thing is noticeable nearer Paris, on the -Marne, where a pair-oar gig, if ever it got there, would part its -timbers through sheer neglect, and break up in a few months. - -Bordeaux itself is worthy of its reputation, and is certainly, strictly -speaking, a "handsome" city, with a waterway almost as grand as the -Thames at London, spanned by a beautiful bridge of red-brick and stone, -built in 1822, which might well serve as a model for some of our London -bridges. It is a pleasant place enough when once the fact of its being a -large and modern city is accepted; and although it has not the romance -of the inland hill-towns nor the picturesque situation of La Rochelle, -it has always been a city of note, ever since the Gauls came down to the -river and called their settlement Burdigala. For three centuries it -belonged to England; the same Countess Eleanor, of whom we heard at -Poitiers, brought it to her English husband, Henry II., and for some -reason it does not seem to have been included in the general -confiscation of English territory under Philip Augustus, so it remained -an English town and shared in English victories and defeats until -Charles VII. was crowned, and the English retired by degrees to their -own land. Bordeaux was also the birthplace of poor, weak, well-meaning -Richard II.; and his father, the victor of Poitiers, held his court in -the town for some time. Here he held, too, his conference upon the -affairs of Castile. - -Don Pedro was at that time engaged in a struggle for the Castilian -throne with his brother, who was not the lawful heir. Neither prince -seems to have been blameless in his conduct, and Edward declared that he -only upheld the claim of Pedro on account of his lawful birth, and not -from any individual deserts; but this declaration apparently failed to -satisfy the rest of the English and Gascons within Bordeaux, and it was -finally decided to summon a council, composed of all the barons in -Aquitaine, "when Don Pedro might lay before them his situation, and his -means of satisfying them, should the prince undertake to conduct him -back to his own country, and to do all in his power to replace him upon -his throne." The conference resulted in a decision in favour of Pedro, -and by order of the English king a certain number of knights and -men-at-arms were sent from Bordeaux to escort the claimant back to Spain -and to help him to regain his own, all expenses being paid by Castile--a -frugal method of rendering aid! - -The Cathedral is attributed to the eleventh and twelfth centuries, and -as it now stands consists of a large nave, without aisles, which were -swept away for purposes of roof construction, as at Angers and in -Notre-Dame-de-la-Coture at Le Mans. According to Mr. Bond, an early -tower was built in 550, which was noticed by Fortunatus. In plan the -building shows the influence of the well-known church of the Cordeliers -at Toulouse. "Its western portion is a vast nave without aisles, sixty -feet wide internally and nearly two hundred feet in length. Its -foundations show that, like that at Angoulme, it was originally roofed -by three great domes; but being rebuilt in the thirteenth century, it is -now covered by an intersecting vault ... and an immense array of flying -buttresses to support its thrust, all which might have been dispensed -with had the architects retained the original simple and more beautiful -form of roof." - -Within easy distance of Bordeaux is Libourne, a little town upon the -Dordogne, which, though now overshadowed by the great port of the -Garonne, was in the Middle Ages of almost equal importance in the -wine-growing country, and had a special interest as being one of the -_villes bastides_ found in several places in the south of France, -especially in Guyenne. These really owe their origin to England, for -they were founded by Edward I. during his French wars as refuges for -those unable to take an active part in the struggle. - -Mr. Barker, in his "Two Summers in Guyenne," gives a very interesting -description of these towns, noticing particularly the straight lines of -their streets. "In contrast to the typical medival town that grew up -slowly around some abbey or at the foot of some strong castle that -protected it, and in the building of which, if any method was observed, -it was that of making the streets as crooked as possible, to assist the -defenders in stopping the inward rush of an enemy, the streets of the -_bastide_ were all drawn at right angles to each other." The _bastides_ -were built merely for shelter, not, as was the case with other towns, -for defence as well, though in the lawless days of the thirteenth -century it was sometimes necessary even here to put up a wall, palisade -and moat. Libourne has a remnant of such fortification in a quaint old -round Tour de l'Horloge with machicolations and a pointed roof. The term -_bastide_ was also applied to a single work of defence which, although -isolated, formed part of a continuous system of fortification. A single -house outside the walls of a town was also called a _bastide_. - -Passing out from Libourne, we reach the very heart of this wine-growing -country--a true country of the south it seems in summer, with the -endless stretches of vineyards--row after row of green, twisting, -climbing wreaths round their stiff, straight poles, under a blazing -southern sky, and every now and then a single hill rising suddenly out -of the plain, whilst the river slips quietly away in the distance to the -sea. On, or rather in, one of these hills the hermit milion fixed his -cave-dwelling, far back in the legendary years of history; and -now--strange contrast!--the town founded by this ascetic, abstemious -saint owes its fame to the purple juice of the grape, and sends forth -from its slopes not water from his dripping well, but good red wine to -gladden the heart of man. A visitor to Saint-milion in early summer -will find a curious greenness over everything--not only in the freshness -of the vineyards. When evening falls the very labourers rise from their -task and move home through the dusk like so many green spectres--though -from no other cause than from their constant watering of the vines with -sulphur-water to kill off the devouring insects. - -[Illustration: BORDEAUX] - -Irrespective of wine-growers, Saint-milion has many things to be -seen on its crescent-shaped hill. There is the wonderful church, carved -out of the cliff-face, now in ruins, but possessing store enough of -massive square piers and round-headed arches to bear witness to its -ancient grandeur; and a separate Gothic tower and spire of the twelfth -century points a long tapering finger above the narrow creeper-grown -streets and low, crowded roofs on the hill-side. The church to which the -tower really belongs is not this curious monument carved from the rock, -but the collegiate church farther up the hill, now used as a parish -church. Other monuments there are besides--the icy-cold, moss-grown -vault known as the "Grotte de Saint-milion," where superstitious -maidens drop pins into the well to find out when they shall be married; -the ruined convent of the Cordeliers, with its grass-grown courts and -ivy-covered cloister arcades, and the great walnut tree whose branches -shade an empty, silent place where once the brothers chanted and the -novices worked at their simple tasks; and the cave-dwellings, where -seven of the Girondists hid from the wrath of the Terror, sheltered and -fed by a kindly couple who paid later for their good nature by the -guillotine, after four of the seven refugees had been captured and -executed. - -The ancient Saint-milion--the town to which most of these buildings -carry us back--is in reality an old English fortress, growing from the -oppidum of the Gauls to the fortified stronghold which passed to Edward -I. and continued, with a few interruptions, to enjoy the privileges of a -royal borough of England until the fifteenth century. - - - - -Chapter Sixteen - -SENS, AUXERRE, AND TROYES - - -The Senones, who settled on the banks of the river Yonne and founded the -city of Agenticum, which we know to-day as Sens, were one of the most -influential people in Gaul--even the Parisii were considered of less -account--and did not submit to the Roman yoke until the final defeat of -Vercingetorix. The change of dominion, however, in no way detracted from -the importance of their capital city, but rather enhanced it, since the -conquerors made the town metropolis of the fourth Lugdunensis, and were -at some pains to rebuild it in a fashion befitting its position. Six -great highways met within its walls; arches, aqueducts and amphitheatres -sprang up all over the city, and Agenticum henceforth became a -prosperous and powerful stronghold, well able to withstand the -incursions of later days, of which there were many, on the part of the -Franks and the Saracens and, finally, of the Normans. - -Christianity was introduced by the martyr-saints Savinian and Potentian, -who, as at Chartres, built the first church in the city, thus laying, so -tradition has it, the foundations of the Cathedral which was to come in -after times. The town then became an archbishopric, and later, like most -towns of any standing, a hereditary countship, the proximity of the two -overlords, spiritual and temporal, leading not infrequently to -disastrous results, especially when in the twelfth century a communal -power sprang up and contributed a third factor to the contest. - -In 1234 Louis IX. married Marguerite de Provence in the Cathedral of -Saint Etienne, and on his return from the Holy Land, five years later, -with the precious relics purchased from the Emperor of Constantinople, -the reliquary and its contents were paraded through the streets in a -palanquin, borne by the king and his brother, Robert d'Artois, who -walked bare-headed and bare-footed at the head of the procession, -casting aside all their royal state--which, indeed, poor Louis would -have gladly left for ever--to set an example of reverent homage to the -people of Sens. Thomas Becket lived for some months in the Abbey of -Sainte-Colombe by the river-side, founded by one of the Chlothars in the -seventh century in memory of the young virgin saint who suffered -martyrdom under the rule of Aurelian. - -Sens, on its quiet, graceful little river, "bending ... link after link -through a never-ending rustle of poplar-trees," is a picturesque place, -like most towns which have left their importance behind them in the -Middle Ages, and have come down to modern days unmodernised. Standing on -the far bank of the Yonne, looking across the river reaches, one gets a -very delightful picture of the town, almost like that of some of our -English Cathedral cities--the shining river, the green water-meadows, -and above them the deeper green of the grand old trees, clustering round -the great church, whose high grey tower rises from their midst, watching -the town, meadows and river by day and by night, when men wake and when -they take their rest, as it has watched ever since William the architect -built up its stones and brought their pattern across the water that the -church of Britain's first Christian city might share the glories of her -sister in France. - -Sens is not very well known to travellers, although there is no -cathedral in the whole breadth of France which ought to be dearer in the -eyes of every Englishman, on account of its being in all probability the -parent of the choir of Canterbury. Hither Becket is said to have fled, -and to have sought sanctuary at the altar of St. Thomas against the -persecution of Henry II. Viollet-le-Duc describes St. Etienne as a -cathedral unique both in plan and style of architecture--a mixture of -arches both round and pointed, such as we find in the choir of -Canterbury, showing how much it is under the influence of the Burgundy -school. This is proved by the great similarity of plan between the other -Burgundy cathedrals, and it is surmised that after the eleventh century -Autun, Langres, Auxerre and Sens possessed certain dispositions of plan -peculiar to themselves, which were adopted in the Eastern portions of -Canterbury. There appears to be no precise information as to the early -foundation of the Cathedral of Sens, and the architect who designed it -is unknown. The west front exhibits a number of fine sculptures relating -to the lives of St. Stephen, St. John, and other saints; in the central -portion, which dates from the end of the twelfth century, religion has -given place to the arts and sciences, which are represented by twelve -sculptured figures, now in a mutilated condition--Grammar, Medicine (a -figure holding plants), Rhetoric (giving a discourse), Painting -(represented drawing on a tablet placed on the knee), Astronomy, Music, -Philosophy, &c. Under each figure is sculptured an animal or monster; in -one case a lion is devouring a child, an elephant carrying a tower.... -The "encyclopdic spirit" was dominant in the twelfth century, and in -the object lesson of these stones an ignorant and unlettered crowd could -find its elementary instruction. - -[Illustration: SENS] - -Auxerre, which is about twelve miles from the main line between Paris -and Dijon, may be considered as an outpost lying on the threshold of the -Morvan country. Many of the towns in this district, notably Semur and -Avallon, are built on large granite bosses protruding through the -oolitic formation. Auxerre possesses churches as fine as those of any -other city of its size in France. As one enters the town by the lower of -the two bridges which cross the Yonne, the three churches--St. Pierre, -St. Etienne and St. Germain--suddenly burst into view. On the left is -St. Pierre, with its picturesque tower and forecourt entered through a -Renaissance gateway; the Cathedral of St. Etienne with its single tower, -high nave, and girdle of flying buttresses, stands on the highest ground -in the centre of the group; and further eastwards the abbey church of -St. Germain, detached from its spire, spreads out along the beautiful -river front of the Yonne. - -"Towards the middle of the tenth century the Cathedral of St. Etienne -was complete in its main outline; what remained was the building of the -great tower, and all that various labour of final decoration which it -would take more than one generation to accomplish. Certain -circumstances, however, not wholly explained, led to a somewhat rapid -finishing, as it were out of hand, yet with a marvellous fulness at once -and grace. Of the result much has perished, or been transferred -elsewhere; a portion is still visible in sumptuous relics, in stained -glass windows, and, above all, in the reliefs which adorn the west -portals, very delicately carved in a fine firm stone from Tounerre, of -which time has only browned the surface and which, for early mastery in -art, may be compared to the contemporary work in Italy."--WALTER PATER, -"Imaginary Portraits." - -The interior of the Cathedral offers one very striking piece of -architectural planning: the Lady Chapel and _chevet_ are joined together -by two slender shafts, an arrangement by which the three features, -ambulatory, _chevet_ and Lady Chapel, are united in one broad design. -This conception gives a very beautiful and harmonious effect. The -eleventh-century spire of St. Germain, which appears quite detached from -the body of the church, is one of the very early stone spires which -exist now in France. It springs from a fairly broad base, and has a -slight entasis or swelling to avoid the appearance of any midway -gathering-in of the outline of the spire. The crypt of the eleventh -century is "deep sunk into the ground and very dark," having aisles, and -is in plan practically a small edition of the choir of Canterbury, -following the true Burgundian type, the details of its capitals -resembling those of the old crypt of Nevers. Mr. Bond, referring to the -crypt, or _confessio_ of St. Germain, remarks that the burial chamber of -a martyr was called a _confessio_: "where lay one who had confessed and -given witness to his faith by his blood." The term "Martyrdom," applied -to the north transept at Canterbury, is an exact equivalent to -_confessio_. - -[Illustration: ST. GERMAIN, AUXERRE] - -Saint Germain, the missionary bishop, lived here, and died at Ravenna; -but his body was brought back from Italy to his birthplace by five pious -sisters, one of whom, canonised under the name of Sainte Maxime, lies -buried in the abbey church founded by the great saint; where also, in -the beautiful crypt, is the tomb of Germain himself, surrounded by a -whole company of dead saints, among them the valiant Saint Loup, who, -when bishop of Auxerre, drove out the Huns under Attila, and saved his -city from destruction. One interesting point in connection with this -abbey is that it is the mother-foundation of Selby in Yorkshire. There -is a long and mythical legend on the subject, teeming of course with -miracles, from which may be gathered that one Bernard of Auxerre -wandered from his native town and settled down--why is not very -clear--upon the banks of the river Ouse, where he led the life of a -hermit. The reports of his sanctity attracted to his cell many persons -in the neighbourhood, influential men amongst them; and he attained such -fame that his hermit's hut became the nucleus of a large monastery. -However much of this is true, and however much legend, enough remains to -show that the monks at Selby did come from Auxerre. - -In addition to these three churches, it would be impossible to overlook -St. Eusbe, a church standing in the middle of the town, especially if -it be the traveller's lot to stay at the excellent Htel de l'pe, and -to occupy a room giving on its court-yard. There cats, cooks, and -chauffeurs combine to enliven the watches of the night, and when the -morning dawns, and the "web of night undone," the jackdaws and the bells -of St. Eusbe announce that sleep is no longer befitting, and he -realises that a restless night is the price to be cheerfully paid if he -desires, as an architectural enthusiast, to do his duty by Auxerre. - -[Illustration: THE BRIDGE AND CATHEDRAL, AUXERRE] - -Troyes, the ancient capital of Champagne, was formerly another "city of -counts"--the residence of a long line of Thibauts, almost as famed in -their day as the Fulks at Angers, and one of whom, called "le -Chansonnier," might be compared to the minstrel King Ren. These counts -of Champagne kept up their state at Troyes until the fourteenth -century, when the countship became merged in the French crown. The city -likewise made of itself a landmark during the Hundred Years' War. After -the battle of Agincourt it fell into the hands of the allied Burgundians -and English; and the name of Troyes now recalls the triumph, as brief as -it was splendid, of the English arms in France. By this time Henry V. -had set his foot upon the steps of the French throne, and the famous -treaty signed here in 1420 secured the succession to him and his heirs, -and, to complete the alliance, gave him the hand of the French princess, -Catherine, the betrothal taking place in the Cathedral, and the marriage -itself in the church of Saint Jean. Here is a contemporary account of -the proceedings by the chronicler Monstrelet: "At this period Henry, -King of England, accompanied by his two brothers, the Dukes of Clarence -and of Gloucester, the Earls of Huntington, Warwick, and Kyme, and many -of the great lords of England, with about sixteen hundred combatants, -the greater part of whom were archers, set out from Rouen, came to -Pontoise, and then to Saint Denis. He crossed the bridge at Charenton -and left part of his army to guard it, and thence advanced by Provins to -Troyes in Champagne. The Duke of Burgundy and several of the nobility, -to show him honour and respect, came out to meet him, and conducted him -to the hotel, where he was lodged with his princes, and his army was -quartered in the adjacent villages.... When all relating to the peace -had been concluded, King Henry, according to the custom of France, -affianced the Lady Catherine. On the morrow of Trinity Day the King of -England espoused her in the parish church near to which he was lodged; -great pomp and magnificence were displayed by him and his princes as if -he were at that moment king of all the world." - -Ten years later, however, Joan of Arc captured the town on her march -through France, and put an end to the English dominion. In 1525 Troyes -was attacked by the Emperor Charles V., who burnt at least half the -town, with the result that many of the old churches had to be rebuilt, -and date therefore from the sixteenth century, with remains of earlier -work here and there. Soon after the fire the city was overswept by the -great wave of religious controversy which was to break over France in -the latter years of the century, and since most of the inhabitants -declared for the Huguenot cause, their fortunes and ultimate fate were -none of the happiest. In 1562 the whole Huguenot population was driven -out and compelled to fall back for safety upon the town of -Bar-sur-Seine; and another decade saw a repetition of the terrible day -of Saint Bartholomew, when the Romanists in Troyes followed the ghastly -example of their white-sleeved brothers in Paris, and massacred every -Huguenot prisoner within the walls. - -Historic interest at the present day divides the repute of Troyes with -something less romantic--the system of weights and measures which we -call "Troy weight," and which remains as a memorial of the mercantile -fame of ancient Troyes. The fairs of Troyes date back to 1230, when -Count Thibaut IV. granted to his subjects a municipal charter, and laid -the foundations of a commercial repute which could vie with that of any -town in France. From this time onwards Troyes occupied an important -position in the commercial world, and became the resort of wealthy -merchants from Italy and weavers with bales of rich stuffs from -Flanders, to say nothing of the goldsmiths, silversmiths, and workers in -precious stones who must have brought Troy weight into fame. Neither the -Hundred Years' War nor the wars of the League appear to have affected -the town's commerce to any great extent, but the Revocation of the Edict -of Nantes, by forcing the Protestant population, which included the -majority of the ablest citizens, to emigrate, struck a blow at the -industry of Troyes from which it never recovered; and now-a-days both -population and commerce have fallen to a state so low that it might -almost be called one of decay, compared with the brilliant busy life of -the medival town. What a scene they must have afforded at fair-time, -these narrow-built streets and small close squares, narrower and closer -than ever we can picture them to-day, but alive with movement, laughter, -above all with colour--such colour as your sober work-a-day crowd can -never aspire to in these times! - -Picturesque and lively as a French market of to-day undoubtedly is, with -the red and green, russet and pearl-colour of its vegetables, the white -caps of its women, the gay blues and crimsons of the umbrellas guarding -the stalls, the laughter and chatter of the buyers, sellers, and idlers, -it has nothing to compare with the wonderful colour-mass and movement of -a medival crowd, above all in such a place as this, the fame of whose -fairs might well have attracted buyers from all parts of Europe. -Stately, bearded Italian merchants--men like Antonio of Venice with -argosies on every sea--in furred cap and gold chain, dark-faced, -keen-eyed Jews, young nobles, exquisite in silk and velvet, wandering -minstrels fantastically arrayed, dancing-girls like bright-hued -butterflies, all the good citizens of Troyes in their gayest holiday -attire, and the inevitable jester in his motley, skimming in and out -of the crowd, shaking his cap and bells in every face--the many-coloured -banners of the town guilds streaming in the breeze above their heads, -and the summer sunshine flooding the whole scene, giving added light to -every street-corner, added brilliancy to every hue. The Troyes of to-day -is a picturesque town enough, with many beautiful timber-framed houses; -but the light and life of the town went out with the departure of the -fairs, and beyond its churches Troyes now has little to distinguish it -from the hundreds of quondam-medival towns scattered through the length -and breadth of France. - -[Illustration: A STREET IN TROYES] - -On our architectural pilgrimage through the town the Cathedral naturally -claimed our first attention; but we had not got much further than -admiration of the splendour of the stained glass, and a short analysis -of the beauty of the interior, when a remorseless sacristan informed us -that the Cathedral was about to close for two hours. Driven outside, the -contemplation of the splendid Flamboyant west portal reminded us of what -we have referred to elsewhere--that these deep-set porches in the French -cathedrals are considered as lineal descendants of the ancient narthex. -Troyes, Lon, Bourges and many other churches lead one to an attempt to -follow out the evolution of these great porches. In the ancient -basilican churches the narthex was the first section of the building--an -ante-temple, long and narrow, in front of the nave. In the primitive -Church it was especially allotted to the monks and the women, and used -for certain offices, such as rogations, supplications, and night -watches; it was further destined as a place for catechumens and -penitents, who were permitted to assist at Divine Service outside the -Temple. Heretics and schismatics might also here attend and listen to -the reading of the Scriptures, this privilege being accorded them in the -hope of their ultimate conversion; and corpses were placed in the -narthex during the performance of the funeral rites. In the Middle Ages -the denomination narthex was given to closed porches of churches, and -ceased to be any longer applicable to a portion of a religious edifice -lying within the walls. It was ultimately replaced by the word _porch_. -These porches were both open and closed and formed a kind of vestibule. - -The baptism of children and not of adults rendered it unnecessary to -provide for the preparation of converts before being introduced into the -Church. There were no more catechumens undergoing their time of -probation, and in consequence the spacious vestibule to which they had -hitherto been relegated disappeared as an essential portion of a large -church, and was replaced by a porch which was either open or closed, -and occupied a position in front of the nave similar to that in which -its predecessor, the narthex, had stood. These porches being reserved -for the faithful remained, _qua_ porches, as very important annexes to -the churches, and formed large vestibules, often closed, which ran along -the outside of the western wall of a church, having sometimes the -appearance of a cloister, as at Toury, which was built in 1230. - -Under the porches before the main entrances of many ancient cathedrals -bishops, emperors and honoured citizens were often buried, as the -ecclesiastical law in the primitive Church did not allow people to be -buried inside the walls of the sacred building. Many important services -were held under these porches; prayers for the dead were offered up, -ablutions performed by the faithful before entering the church, relics -and images were exposed, and litanies chanted. Later it became -absolutely necessary to keep them strictly closed on account of the -abuse of the shelter of the porch by the erection of market stalls and -booths on fair-days under the shadow of the church, and the crowd of -buyers and sellers making the air ring with their noisy bargainings. - -A further development was to make the porch a kind of arcaded -_avant-porte_ surmounted by a gable with sculptured features. These -decorated canopies were by degrees thrown back into the main wall, -became merged into the mouldings of the doorway, and were finally lost -as a separate feature in the highly ornamented and deeply splayed -portal. - -Fortunately the ecclesiastical interest of Troyes is not confined to one -corner, and the churches of Saint Urbain and the Madeleine lie in one's -path to the market-place along the very picturesque streets of -sixteenth-and seventeenth-century houses, which offer every conceivable -variation of roof and gable. - -The beautiful details of the unfinished church of Saint Urbain may well -have won for itself the reputation of equalling if not of surpassing -anything of its kind either in France or Germany; and although it is -still in the hands of the restorer, there is now no scaffolding to -prevent one looking in admiration at the graceful choir and transepts. -The detached _pignons_ above the chancel window spring from the -buttresses clear of the wall, and throw a deep shadow over the upper -portion of the windows. This shadow gives an appearance of weight and -stability to the building, which is certainly required as an assurance -against the result of too daring construction. - -In the Madeleine, which is not far from Saint Urbain, is a notable -rood-screen, full of luxuriant tracery and sculpture of a late -Flamboyant period. It attracts attention, not because it fulfils any -ceremonial requirements or forms any part of an architectural effect in -the interior of the church, but rather on account of its singular -appearance of being slung between two pillars. - - - - -Chapter Seventeen - -MEAUX, SENLIS, AND BEAUVAIS - - -Meaux is a beautifully situated little town on the banks of the Marne -some thirty miles from Paris, on the way to the Champagne country. Its -general appearance can best be gathered from the delightful public -promenade along the river-side which is entered immediately on the right -of the station. The Cathedral dates back to the early thirteenth -century, but very shortly after it was finished, either owing to the -work of construction being hurried or to the foundations being insecure, -large cracks and actual shifting of the masonry declared themselves, and -a great deal of remodelling and alterations became necessary. The -vaulting and first stage of the choir aisles--or triforium -ambulatory--were removed, the aisles being thereby doubled in height. -The choir elevation is a very beautiful expression of thirteenth-century -design. The transept is short, and has a large rose window and a -richly-decorated portal. - -It is said that at one time, namely in the thirteenth century, -architects conceived the idea of covering the walls on the inside of the -porch with some vast design of decoration, by which the colour poured -into the church through the large rose-window should be enhanced by -great spaces of painted wall-surface. This conception, however, was very -short-lived, and towards the end of the century painted subjects were -confined almost entirely to the windows; and the internal decoration of -the _revers_ of the porches was conceived, as at Meaux, more in an -architectural spirit with pilasters, arcading, etc., as motives, rather -than with features suggested by the painter's art. - -Meaux as well as Lon, Soissons, Beauvais, Noyon and other towns in the -district felt the effects of the Jacquerie revolts in the thirteenth -century. Indeed, many of the ladies who suffered from the horrors of the -persecution at Beauvais fled at first to Meaux to escape the fury of the -rebels; and once having got within the town, they did not dare to leave -it, so that to all intents and purposes they were prisoners within its -walls. Throughout the whole district bands of robbers and furious -peasants infested the roads or lay in ambush to catch the unwary, and it -was thus very dangerous to go from one town to another, even under an -armed escort. Hearing of the plight of these ladies in Meaux, among -whom were the Duchesses of Orlans and Normandy, the Earl of Foix and -the Captal de Buch resolved to go to their aid, and set out forthwith -from Chlons, to find a great host of the peasantry also bound for the -same place. The rebels had heard that Meaux was chiefly inhabited by -refugee women and children, also that it contained a great deal of -treasure; and they were now flocking down every road, from Valois, from -Beauvoisie and from Paris, towards the little town upon the Marne. Foix -and his company were received with the utmost joy, for the peasants had -already begun to fill the streets and to do what damage they could, and -the ladies were naturally in great alarm. "But when these banditti -perceived such a troop of gentlemen, so well equipped, sally forth to -guard the market-place, the foremost of them began to fall back. The -gentlemen then followed them, using their lances and swords. When they -felt the weight of their blows, they, through fear, turned about so -fast, they fell one over the other. All manner of armed persons then -rushed out of the barriers, drove them before them, striking them down -like beasts, and clearing the town of them, for they kept neither -regularity nor order, slaying so many that they were tired. They flung -them in great heaps into the river. In short, they killed upwards of -seven thousand. Not one would have escaped if they had chosen to pursue -them further." - -[Illustration: MEAUX] - -Another siege famous in the annals of Meaux is that during the wars of -Henry V., when the English king encamped before the town in October, -1421, and set engines to batter down the gates and walls, having -entrenched his own army meanwhile in a strong position between hedges -and ditches. "The King of England," Monstrelet tells us, "was -indefatigable in the siege of Meaux, and having destroyed many parts of -the walls of the market-place, he summoned the garrison to surrender -themselves to the King of France and himself, or he would storm the -place. To this summons they replied that it was not yet time to -surrender, on which the King ordered the place to be stormed. The -assault continued for seven or eight hours in the most bloody manner; -nevertheless, the besieged made an obstinate defence, in spite of the -great numbers that were attacking them. Their lances had been almost all -broken, but in their stead they made use of spits, and fought with such -courage that the English were driven back from the ditches, which -encouraged them much." This state of affairs lasted for six months; the -garrison of Meaux, who seem to have behaved all through with the utmost -gallantry, were in hopes of relief from the Dauphin, but at the end of -April, finding further resistance impossible, they gave themselves up -into the hands of Henry. A treaty was set on foot whereby, "on the 11th -day of May, the market-place and all Meaux were to be surrendered into -the hands of the kings of France and England." The leaders were made -prisoners of war, and the chief offender, the bastard of Vaurus, who -"had in his time hung many a Burgundian and Englishman," was beheaded -and hung as a warning on a tree outside the walls of the town. King -Henry himself--adds the French chronicler--"was very proud of this -victory, and entered the place in great pomp, and remained there some -days with his princes to repose and solace himself, having given orders -for the complete reparation of the walls that had been so much damaged -by artillery at the siege." - -Meaux is of course notably associated with Bossuet, the famous preacher, -who was appointed to its bishopric in 1681. The study and garden where -he wrote many of his sermons are still shown among his other memorials -in the vch, near the Cathedral. - -[Illustration: THE OLD MILLS AT MEAUX] - -"Dans les choses ncessaire, l'unit; dans les douteuses, la libert; -dans tous les cas, la charit." In these few words one may look for the -keynote of Bossuet's whole life. Temperate in all things, yet possessed -with an eloquence more moving, it was said, than that of any man since -the days of the Christian Fathers, and employed always in the cause -of the Church he loved so well, the "Aigle de Meaux" well deserves his -place among the greatest ecclesiastics France has ever known, and -France, just at this time, was rich in ecclesiastical genius. There was -Fnlon at Cambrai and Mascaron at Tulle, there were Massillon and -Bourdaloue, Arnauld and Fleury--all of them men of note, both in the -pulpit and in the world of books; but Bossuet stands out before them -all. - -He made an early entrance into the cultivated world, preaching his first -sermon, upon a subject chosen at random, in the salon of the Htel -Rambouillet, when hardly out of his teens; and the Marquis de -Feuquires, who had introduced him into this society of Prcieuses, soon -found reason to be proud of his protg. The young man was destined to -go on as he had begun; a few more years saw him established as Canon of -Metz, the close friend of Cond and of the Calvinist Paul Ferri, with -whom he never tired of disputing theological questions in a perfectly -amicable spirit, acting up to his maxim of "liberty in doubtful things"; -and finally his reputation brought him to Paris, where he preached -during Lent, 1656, and brought before the world the sermon as he created -it, purified from the profanities of an immoral age, strengthened by his -steadfast simplicity, and quickened by the fire of his eloquence. -Bossuet found that in spite of himself his fame as an orator--a fame -after which he had never striven--was firmly established in the capital, -and after he had preached before the king in the chapel of the Louvre -his success was practically assured. Honours and dignities came fast -upon him; he became Bishop of Condom, and in the following year (1670) -was entrusted with the education of the Dauphin, while the Acadmie -Franaise opened its doors to his genius, and in 1681 he was appointed -to the See of Meaux. Hardly had Bossuet settled down, however, in the -quiet little _vch_, with its pleasant green garden, than he was -called out again into the world of noise and controversy. In 1682 Louis -XIV. convoked the famous assembly of clergy to discuss the breach which -had lately disclosed itself between the State of France and the Papacy. -The king contended for the right of patronage over any vacant sees or -benefices, claiming that so long as they remained unoccupied, their -revenues fell due to the Crown; and called together the clergy of the -realm to uphold his right and to draw up a code of rules that should set -a line between spiritual and temporal authority. Bossuet preached the -sermon which was to open the Convocation; and his clear practical sense -and eloquent denunciation of the encroachments of the Papacy destroyed -the remnants of Pope Innocent's power in France. He summed up the case -in four clauses. First, "That the Pope has no temporal power over -kings"; secondly, "That his spiritual authority is inferior to that of a -general assembly"; thirdly, "That, in consequence, the use of this -authority ought to be regulated by the canons of the Church and by -customs generally approved"; and last, "That the papal decision on -matters of faith is only infallible by consent of the Church." Thus did -Bossuet establish the privileges and the liberty of the Gallican Church. - -As soon as possible the great bishop disengaged himself from the affairs -of the nation, and was occupied, not in gaining fresh honours, but with -the care of his diocese. The picture of his last years is a graceful and -pleasant one, and shows the great man leading the life of a simple -country priest; writing sermons in his study or garden, directing his -convents, schools and hospitals, visiting his poor and sick people, even -catechising the children of Meaux; and at times retiring into the -seclusion of the monastery of La Trappe, to gather strength and courage -for the better fulfilment of his pastoral duties. - -The old timber water-mills behind the Town Hall are the outward sign of -one of the great industries of Meaux. They have withstood for many -generations the rushing torrents of the Marne, which threaten to -undermine the starlings and timbers of the mills and to engulf them in -its waters. These for some reason or other are almost as green as the -outpourings of the Rhone at Geneva. It would be interesting to know if -Meaux possessed any feudal right over the neighbouring peasants, -compelling them to come and wait their turn at the mill, and pay -whatever price might be demanded, and forbidding them, even in times of -heavy yield, to get their corn ground elsewhere. Such oppressions -actually existed in the villages attached to the great chteaux, where -the seigneur had a right to keep huge rabbit-warrens and pigeon-houses, -whose inhabitants devastated, year in, year out, the surrounding crops -of the peasants. - -The little city of Senlis, with its girdle of Roman walls and watch -towers, is one of the most attractive places within reach of Paris. It -is situated about thirty-five miles to the northeast, in the midst of -the great forest land of Hallatte and Chantilly. Until the dissolution -of the Carlovingian empire Senlis enjoyed the privileges of a royal -residence, and, indeed, down to the time of Henri de Navarre the kings -of France continued to visit the city, and were lodged in a castle built -on the site of the Roman prtorium. The ruins of this castle, some of -which date from the eleventh century, may still be seen among the -attractions of Senlis; and of even greater interest are the Roman -ramparts which surround the town and which were built when it still held -its position as the township of the Silvanectes. These walls, -"twenty-three feet high and thirteen feet thick, are, with those of St. -Lizier (Arige) and Bourges, the most perfect in France. They enclosed -an oval area 1024 feet long from east to west and 794 feet wide from -north to south. At each of the angles formed by the broken lines of -which the circuit of 2756 feet is composed, stands or stood a tower; -numbering originally twenty-eight and now only sixteen, they are -semicircular in plan, and up to the height of the wall are unpierced. -The Roman city had only two gates; the present number is five." - -As one approaches the town from the station through the boulevard, the -Renaissance tower of Saint Pierre and the beautiful _flche_ of the -Cathedral stand right ahead. The first of these two churches is now -desecrated and converted into a large market hall, having previously -been used as cavalry barracks. It is short and broad, having only three -bays to the nave, two to the choir, and an apse of three lights; but it -has one very marked feature, which is also seen, though to a lesser -extent, in the Cathedral of Saint Gatien at Tours--the axis of the choir -trends northwards, making with the nave an angle of some seventeen to -twenty degrees. There is a certain amount of early Gothic work worth -notice, but the prevailing style is Flamboyant; in the two last side -chapels of the choir some curious vaulting is to be found, resembling -rude attempts at fan tracery with heavy keyed pendants. - -The Cathedral of Notre-Dame covers during its construction a period of -some four hundred years, and is probably only part of what was -originally designed. The glory of the building is the beautiful spire to -the south-west tower. Rising from a base octagonal in plan, the angles -are lightened by detached pillars supporting a pyramidal canopy; the -upper dormer windows are high and lancet-shaped, with the back of their -gables sloping downwards and forming a sharp angle with the richly -crocketed spire. Internally the church is a mixed product of the -Transition and Flamboyant architects; the large clerestory windows may -have been rebuilt later when the vaulting was constructed. In the -ambulatory behind the altar the twelfth-century capitals remain, showing -archaic Romanesque sculpture; and traces of this early work are to be -found in many other parts of the building. The large west door is of the -Chartres type; in the tympanum are the figures of our Lord and the -Virgin Mary, with a representation of the resurrection of the dead; some -of the figures are flying upwards, while others are being tenderly -awakened by angels swinging censers. - -[Illustration: SENLIS] - -Long before the train arrives at Beauvais the Cathedral is seen like a -huge fortress in the distance, overtopping the quiet, modest landscape -of the Thrain valley; and its great size is more acutely felt as one -approaches its south doorway along the streets of little white-painted -houses and shop-fronts. The immediate effect of the interior of this -marvellous building is startling. Whatever emotion has been aroused in -the architectural traveller by the glories of Amiens, Chartres, or -Bourges, is for the moment entirely eclipsed by the first view of the -choir of Beauvais, whose clerestory windows soar upwards with such a -restless vitality as almost to pierce the vaulting. These choir bays -look like shafts of masonry so elongated, so delicate, that one trembles -for their stability. And this sensation gradually increases. The sense -of strength and repose gives way to a feeling that this great "church in -the air" is struggling against dissolution, and that its vast flying -buttresses are only just sufficient to withstand the tremendous strain -that is constantly being exerted on the building. It is only fair, -however, to the architect of Beauvais choir to say that he was hampered -by the want of means and probably also by the insufficient site assigned -to him for the planning out of his Cathedral. Had he worked under more -favourable conditions he would have accomplished "an incomparable work," -for it is not, as Viollet-le-Duc remarks, "the theory" that was fatal to -its construction, but the execution, which is poor and mediocre. The -lesson learnt from the Beauvais architect's temerity on the one hand, -and from his beautiful disposition of plan on the other, was of the -greatest value to the designers of other Cathedrals executed at the same -time--notably that of Cologne, which was constructed more or less -contemporaneously with Beauvais. - -West of the Cathedral is the _Basse oeuvre_, a building which -Fergusson describes as an example of the Latin style, and a -stepping-stone from the Roman basilica to the Gothic church. This -intermediate style is noticeable in the Romanesque church of S. Vicenzo -alle Fontane in Rome, where the bay is divided simply into pier arch and -clerestory, showing in very simple terms an arrangement nearly -approaching to Gothic. - -Of the history of Beauvais there is but little to be said, for it -possesses none worthy of the name, or rather--since every town must have -a story of some kind--none which associates itself to any great degree -with outside events. It was established in the Roman era as the capital -of the Bellovaci, under the name of Csaromagus; it was Christianised -by Saint Lucian, who for his good works suffered martyrdom within the -town; and later on it became the head of a countship. This dignity, -however, Beauvais did not long retain, for in the tenth century the -temporal power of the count was vested in the spiritual power of the -bishop, and any celebrity which the town may have attained was -henceforth of purely ecclesiastical order. - -It did, however, play a prominent part in the peasant revolt known as -the "Jacquerie" in the fourteenth century. A body of peasants, "without -any leader," says Froissart, rose up with the intent to exterminate the -upper classes--a forerunner of the Revolution--and perpetrated the most -horrible atrocities upon every knight and noble they could lay hands on -in Beauvais. "They said that the nobles of the kingdom of France, -knights and squires, were a disgrace to it, and that it would be a very -meritorious act to destroy them all; to which proposition every one -assented as a truth, and added, shame befall him who should be the means -of preventing the gentlemen from being wholly destroyed." - -When the revolt grew, instead of being crushed, the "gentlemen of -Beauvoisie" were forced to send for help out of France, since matters -were come to such a pass that "in the bishoprics of Noyon, Lon and -Soissons, there were upwards of one hundred castles and good houses of -knights and squires destroyed." Aid soon came, notably from Flanders, -Hainault and Navarre, the king of Navarre especially signalising himself -by putting three thousand rebels to death in one day. "When they were -asked," says the chronicler, "for what reason they acted so wickedly, -they replied they knew not, but they did so because they saw others do -it; and they thought that by this means they should destroy all the -nobles and gentlemen in the world." - -Edward III. besieged Beauvais in 1346, but without success, and it only -fell into English hands in 1420 through the treachery of Bishop Pierre -Cauchon, whose name also appears as one of the witnesses against Joan of -Arc at Rouen eleven years later. The memory of this latter offence so -preyed upon his mind that when he became bishop of Lisieux--having -presumably been ejected from the see of Beauvais--Couchon sought to -expiate his sin by dedicating a chapel to the Virgin in the Cathedral of -Saint Pierre. - -Hearing of the siege of Compigne by the Burgundian forces, Joan had -left Charles's army, which was still dawdling by the Loire in a state of -inaction, and marched off to Compigne to relieve his party there. -Arrived without the town, she soon headed a sortie against the -Burgundians; they were driven back, and it is probable that the -expedition would have been attended by the success which, to do her -justice, had up to this moment crowned the efforts of the Maid, had not -a body of Englishmen come up unexpectedly between her and the town and -driven her into a corner. She was of course speedily captured. As soon -as the news reached Paris both the University and the Vicar of the -Inquisition demanded her person. Cauchon, however, stood firm. The Maid, -he contended, had been captured within the diocese of Beauvais, and he, -as the foremost prelate of the English party, claimed the right of -putting her on trial; and after having paid to Burgundy 10,000 livres -for this right, sent the Maid to Rouen, there to stand on her trial for -sorcery, before a court of which Cauchon was president; and this fact -alone might reasonably destroy all hope for poor Joan. - -Another fourteenth-century bishop of Beauvais brought his diocese before -the world in no small degree. Jean de Dormans was not only bishop; he -became Chancellor of France, and obtained from Rome the rank of a -cardinal, under the title of the Four Crowned Saints. In Paris Dormans -endowed a foundation which still bears the name of Collge de Beauvais, -though what remains of the building serves as barracks, and the light of -learning has left its precincts for ever. The old college is now united -to its neighbour, the Collge de Presle; but the fourteenth-century -chapel dedicated to Saint John the Evangelist still stands almost -intact, though it, too, has been desecrated, and now serves the use of -the military occupiers. Formerly there stood within this chapel six -life-size figures, representing three men and three women of the Dormans -family, and it is believed that when medival fragments were pieced -together to form the chapel of Ablard and Hloise, which is now part of -the burial-ground of Pre-la-Chaise, the figure of one of these ladies -of the fourteenth century was used to represent that of Hloise. - -One name there is on the page of their history which the inhabitants of -this town remember with a veneration almost equal to that which the -Orlannais regard Joan of Arc, and whose memory even now receives an -annual tribute. It is that of another Jeanne, poor and obscure, who rose -to heroism in the moment of her city's danger, and who, though she did -not lead a mighty host to victory nor bring a monarch back to his own, -yet saved her city from the encroachments of Burgundy, and gave the -women of Beauvais a right to their country's esteem. The besieging army -of Charles the Bold probably never received such a surprise as on that -day in the year of grace 1472, when Jeanne Hachette led her -_concitoyennes_ through the streets of Beauvais, menaced the foe from -the ramparts, and actually bore away with her own hands one of the -Burgundian standards. The banner is still kept in the Htel-de-Ville; -and every year, on the feast of Ste. Angadrme, a grand procession -marches through the streets, in which the women are given the right of -precedence over the men, in memory of the brave deeds of Jeanne and her -sisters. - - - - -Chapter Eighteen - -PARIS AND SOME OF ITS CHURCHES - - -As a Cathedral city, Paris hardly comes within the scheme of this book. -It has been written about so much and so often, and occupies, both -architecturally and historically, such a position as would scarcely -justify any but a full and detailed description. This great city, the -living, moving source of one of the greatest nations of to-day, and at -one time the mainspring of Europe itself, is not to be passed over with -a few terse remarks; it is as though one tried to compress the history -of France itself into a single chapter. On the one hand, a short sketch -can hardly hope to do justice to Paris; on the other, to describe it at -such length as it deserves would not be dealing fairly by the lesser -towns, and further, this length would be so great as to render absurd -its inclusion in a book of traveller's notes. Rather let it be regarded -here in the light of _point d'appui_ from which other places may be -visited which do not lie on the direct route from Paris to the -provinces. Without attempting any architectural description, however, it -may be as well, before we pass outside the city walls, to mention three -churches within Paris of which illustrations are given here, and to -offer the briefest possible outline of their early history and -foundation, as well as that of the great city of which they form a part. - -"Paris did not, like London, simply grow into the capital of a kingdom -already existing. The city created first the county and then the -kingdom, of which it was successively the head." In those days Paris -ranked no higher than Soissons, Sens, Lon, Orlans, or Rouen; and in -ecclesiastical dignity it was inferior to some of them, being, it is -true, an episcopal see, but not a metropolitan. Certainly, as we have -seen, it was approved as a military station by Csar, and beloved as a -residence by Julian; and the great position the city now holds in modern -Europe and the modern world is rather apt to bias our estimate of these -early honours, which were undoubtedly shared by many other of the Gallic -cities. Because Paris is now a metropolitan see, the centre of political -and social France, we have a tendency to think that in all times the -city must have ruled her neighbour towns in this way; whereas it was -only by very slow degrees--long after it had become the seat of royalty -and the nominal capital of France--that Paris acquired an influence -beyond the bounds of her own territories. The great lords of Burgundy, -of Aquitaine, of Anjou, of Champagne--they were vassals to the king, -they paid him homage, they gave him their military service, but they and -their domains formed no part of France; they were almost as separate -from any head or centre as were the wide-scattered Teutonic states east -of the Rhine. Nor was this felt to be in any way a disadvantage; the -kings in Paris would doubtless have welcomed the firm allegiance of -these kings in all but name, because it would have meant a fresh access -of power, an added strength wherewith to face their other foes; but no -idea of national unity had any place in their calculation. Paris had -made for herself a dominion, and the time was to come when that dominion -should stretch from the sea on the north, south and west, to the river -and to the mountains on the east; but as yet that time had not arrived. - -[Illustration: THE PONT MARIE, PARIS] - -One more event which took place after Paris became the capital of France -may be recorded here. This is the attempted siege in the days of Joan of -Arc, which followed as the sequel to the king's coronation at Rheims. -Having subdued so many cities in the north of France, and given to -Charles VII. the crown of his ancestors, it was but natural that Joan -should be anxious to lead him in triumph into his capital, which at -present declared for the enemy, and was occupied by Cardinal Beaufort's -English troops and the army of Burgundy. The newly-crowned king, -however, apparently considered that he had borne his share of the burden -in the late proceedings at Rheims, and seemed in no hurry to march upon -Paris. Riding through the smaller towns, seeing their gates flung open -wide to him, and receiving the homage and acclamations of the people, -were occupations far more congenial to his indolent tastes than -bestirring himself to take the field again; and to their infinite -annoyance Joan and d'Alenon perceived that he was gradually but surely -working his way down to his castles on the Loire, from whose pleasant -meadows they knew well that he would never return. The only wonder is -that the Maid did not lose all patience and leave this dilatory prince -to his fate. Instead of this she set out with the Duc d'Alenon to Saint -Denis, leaving Charles at Compigne, whence he followed them, "very sore -against his will," as far as Senlis. Meanwhile each day of delay gave -the English time to strengthen their position within the capital; and -Joan found that having brought the king to Senlis was by no means the -same thing as conquering his unwillingness to strike what she and her -party believed might be, if rightly directed, the final blow. Each time -the Maid and d'Alenon set out to invest Paris, messages came from the -royal camp, commanding them to desist and return to Saint Denis. Finally -the truth came out; the king cared more for peace and ease on the Loire -than for glory in war, and desired to leave the camp. Had Joan believed -less firmly in the divine right of kings, it is probable that she would -have rebelled and besieged Paris on her own responsibility; on the other -hand, had Charles been left to the counsels of d'Alenon and the brave -captains Dunois and La Hire, there is reason to suppose that he might -have been persuaded to follow where Joan led, and might under her -guidance have subdued Paris in a very short time. But there were the -king's favourites to reckon with, and these were not men of war, but of -peace, and not always of peace with honour--the foolish La Tremouille -and the crafty Archbishop of Rheims, one of Joan's worst opposers--and -these advisers easily worked upon the king's indolent good-nature to -find in the eagerness of the Maid an undue desire for fresh conquest. As -it was, Joan saw nothing before her but to obey the man to whom, as she -believed, God had given the right to go or stay, to fight or to lie in -peace, as his Majesty chose. She went to the statue of the Virgin at -Saint Denis, bearing her armour; and there, kneeling in the church, she -dedicated to Our Lady of Victories the helmet, hauberk and coat of mail -in which she had done so many great feats of arms; and then rose and -followed her king on his journey to the pleasant lands of the Loire. - -The early history of Paris lies buried in the unrecorded pages of the -life of primval man. Its origin is humble in comparison with that of -other capitals, although it bears a strong analogy to those surrounding -physical conditions to which Venice owed its existence. Its cradle, -according to M. Hoffbauer, _Paris traverse les ages_, was a small -narrow island in the middle of the young Seine, which had then cut for -itself its channel through the alluvial plains which had been left by -the retiring sea towards the end of the Geological Tertiary period at -the close of the glacial epoch. It was part of a group of five islands, -of which three very soon disappeared, their soil being probably used -either for embankments or for purposes of defence. As in the great -estuary leading up to the morass surrounding London, many changes had -been wrought by the hand of man in the general appearance of the Paris -basin. It is true that the great embankments constructed by the Romans -to keep the waters of the Thames within defined limits are not to be -traced in the valley of the Seine, yet the rude habitations of wattle -huts built on whatever hillocks were attainable entailed embankments to -a certain extent which should keep the Seine within its bounds at times -of extraordinary flood. As it stands to-day Paris is in one of the most -fertile parts of the territory; it is on the banks of a great river -which brings to it by its main stream and by its affluents the tribute -of the richest provinces; it is surrounded by materials most necessary -for the construction of its public and private edifices; and it is -endowed by nature with all the fruitful resources tending towards the -aggrandisement both of power and fortune. - -The condition of the early inhabitants of the Paris basin was that of -one continual warfare against the denizens of the jungle, which with its -rich and abundant vegetation covered the surrounding country. Caverns -and other places chosen for their abodes were disputed with lions, -hyenas and tigers. The chase was their only means of subsistence (the -art of husbandry being entirely unknown), and the number of stone -hatchets and harpoons, fishing-hooks, lances, &c., found deeply buried -in the alluvial soil, bear testimony to the struggle for existence -amongst the early inhabitants of the Seine valley. - -Csar, when he was appointed commander of the Gauls in B.C. 59, found -their central point of Paris inhabited by a Cymric or Celtic population, -which he calls Gauls in his language but Celts in their own, and -separated from the Belg by the Seine and Marne. Csar wrote the place -"Lutetia," and when he convoked the inhabitants of Gaul to this town the -neighbouring tribe was designated as "Parisii," and allied to the -powerful clan of the Senones. - -With reference to the meaning of the word "Parisii," M. Bulet, in the -"Dictionnaire Celtique," says that "bar" or "par" means in Celtic a boat -(_bateau_), and that the low Bretons call the cargo of a boat "far." -Herodotus (book ii., 96), in his description of the method of floating -boats down stream on the Nile by means of a raft fastened on in front -with a stone dragging behind, calls the boat "baris," and says that some -of them are many thousand talents burthen. They were probably -flat-bottomed, and similar to those now seen on the rivers. The Celtic -word "par," signifying a boat, might well have produced the name -Parisii, meaning boatmen, men who passed all their life in the "baris." - -The most ancient emblem of Lutetia which has been preserved from -antiquity is that of the prow of a boat which one sees sculptured on the -springing of the vault of the Roman palace of the Thermes, built on the -left bank of the Seine; the powerful association of the Naut Parisiaci, -which is found at the head of the Parisian Navigation represented by the -prow of a boat, has therefore a direct Celtic or Gallic origin. Living -only in rude cabins the early inhabitants naturally possessed no public -building. Csar therefore conceived the idea of convoking the Gaulish -chiefs into one central place or forum, and ordered to be built a -"Suggestum," a tribune from which he could harangue the assembled -headmen. This is considered by some French architects as the earliest -indication of their _dilit naissnte_. As further evidence of their -building and engineering capability, the inhabitants of Lutetia threw -out bridges to join their island to the main banks of the river. Csar -frequently refers to the bridges built by the Gauls, such as the one at -Melun, on the Seine, another across the Allier, near Vichy, of which -ancient foundations and piers have been found, another at Orlans, and -of such slender construction as to have especially attracted his -attention, and, finally, the bridge of Lutetia across the main arm of -the Seine, the predecessor of the present Pont Notre Dame, which has -also left traces of its ancient piers. - -In Rome the Naut Tiberis were a corporation who enjoyed the privilege -of carrying corn and other produce from Ostia to the capital; similar -associations existed in Gaul in addition to the Naut Parisiaci, and on -a wall of the amphitheatre of Nmes is an inscription in which as many -as forty places are mentioned where corporations enjoying the same -privileges and immunities existed. No wonder the territory of the -Parisii increased in commercial activity. Watered by the Seine, the -Marne and the Oise, its trade routes by land and by water were fully -organised and guarded by powerful associations which existed almost -before the Roman Conquest, and attracted the attention of the writer -Strabo. It soon developed under such advantages into a prosperous and -enlightened city. Roman buildings took the place of the Gallic huts, -Roman laws governed the city, Roman customs and manners prevailed -amongst the inhabitants, and by the time the first messengers of -Christianity had penetrated into Gaul Lutetia had become a city not of -the Gauls, but of the Romans. Curiously enough it was from Rome also -that these early messengers came, to preach their doctrine to a Roman -city. The pioneers were Saint Denis, generally confounded, for the sake -of the antiquity of the Gallican Church, with the convert of Saint Paul, -Dionysius the Areopagite, and two companions, Eleutherius and Rusticus; -and their work was carried on by Martin of Tours, one of the bravest -soldiers of the Emperor Julian, who left the army to preach the faith in -Gaul, and to stamp out the cult of the old pagan gods. Speaking of -Julian, moreover, may serve to remind us that it was at Paris that he -was first proclaimed emperor; here was his palace before his imperial -honours came upon him, and here, he declares in his own writings, were -spent the three happiest winters of his life, showing that even in these -early times Lutetia was a fair and pleasant city, as it is to-day. - -In the following centuries Gaul was overrun with tribes from the east, -Goths and Visigoths, Alemnanni and Huns, Burgundians and Franks. The -last-named broke down the Roman defences all over the land and seized -upon Paris. A new era now began for the city. Under Clovis, the first -Frank king, it became the official capital of the State in 508, and from -this time forward takes its place as one of the great cities of France. -After the conversion of Clovis, abbeys and churches were built, great -bishops and great saints preached and wrote their message, and indeed -the ecclesiastical fabric of the city seems to have grown up more -quickly than the civil fabric, until the time of Charlemagne, when -craftsmen's guilds were established, Jewish capitalists admitted within -the walls, and a mercantile reputation founded. Then a second time the -work of the conquerors seemed to be undone. The Northmen, more terrible -invaders than Goths or Franks, plundered the coast-lands and presently -swept up the Seine past Rouen to Paris, where they worked such havoc as -the town had never before known. The streets were set in flames, the -monasteries were sacked and burnt, the priests and monks were massacred -without mercy; yet all this evil was to end in better things. The very -persistency of the Normans in besieging and pillaging a town four and -five times, argued that the town itself must be worth the trouble, and -the "lords" of Paris speedily began to look to its safety. Weak, foolish -Charles the Fat could devise no better plan than the cowardly one of -bribing the invaders to retreat; but Eudes, Count of Paris, knew that -this would only be an inducement to them to come again, and determined -once and for all to rid his city, at least, of this scourge. This he did -with such effect that the crown of France was given to him and the -inefficient Charles deposed. It was his nephew, Hugh the Great, who -ruled at Paris in Rolf's day, and waged constant war with Neustria and -Charles the Simple, the last of the Carlovingian kings, on the -hill-crest at Lon. Then, at the end of the tenth century, began the -feudal monarchy under the Capetian dynasty. The first of the line was -the eldest son of Hugh the Great, and the connections which he brought -with him promised well for the prestige of his new kingdom. On the one -side, he was brother-in-law to the Norman Duke, Richard the Fearless; on -the other, his own brother Odo was Duke of Burgundy; in his own right -he was lord of Picardy, of Maine, of Chartres, of Tours, of Blois, and -of Orlans; and his bond with the Church was further strengthened by the -fact that he held the lay abbacies of Saint Martin, near Tours, and -Saint Denis, near Paris. Thus the kingdom with which Hugh Capet began -his reign was a fairly compact strip of land, having as boundaries -Flanders to the north, Aquitaine to the south, Champagne to the east, -and Normandy to the west. Of this kingdom Paris was nearly the actual -geographical centre, and soon became the political centre also. - -The early importance of Paris in the tenth century is very different to -that of London. Paris at this time was a military position of growing -importance, both from its central situation and its place on the island -in the Seine. London on her Thames had an almost similar position, but -she derived her power not merely from her Teutonic conquerors, but also -from her early connection with Roman and Celtic Britain; while as a -military stronghold she was no less to be desired. - -The eastern point of the city, where the only bridge then existed, -traversing the Seine in the exact place where now stands the Pont Notre -Dame, a point where the roads through the province converged, was -already a place sacred to the Gauls. Here were performed rites and -sacrifices to their mysterious divinities in an underground church which -existed in the third century. Probably the tradition of dark deeds of -persecution of the early Christians, human sacrifices, and missionaries -suffering death in the cages of lions which were kept for the purpose of -exhibitions, prevented the Parisian boatmen, when they heard of the -wonderful tidings of Galilee, from using this Gaulish building, so full -of terrible reminiscences, as their first church. The site of the Temple -of Jupiter was chosen for the establishment of a church which should -stamp out the heathen religion, crush with its heel the serpent's head -and build upon its ruins a temple of the Holy Cross. About 375, on the -site of the Temple of Jupiter, was built a church dedicated to Saint -Etienne, which may be considered as the first Cathedral of Paris. - -To the splendour of this early basilica, built by Childebert in the -early Latin style, with its marble columns, some of which are now in the -Muse de Cluny, the monk Fortunatus bears witness, and his description -of the edifice is thus given in M. Hoffbauer's book on Paris: "Le -vaisseau de cette glise repose sur des colonnes de marbre, et le soin -avec lequel on l'entretient en augment la beaut. Le premier il fut -clair de fentres ornes de verres transparents par lesquels on reoit -la lumire. On dirait que la main d'un ouvrier habile a emprisonn le -jour dans le sanctuaire. Les feux tremblants de l'aurore naissante -semblant se jouer jusque dans les lambris, et le temple est clair par -la chart du jour mme, quand le soliel ne se montre pas. Le roi -Childebert, anim d'un zle particulier pour cette glise destine son -peuple, l'a dote de richesses qui ne doivent jaimais s'puiser; -toujours passion pour les intrts de la religion, il s'est empress -d'augmenter ses ressources. Nouveau Melchisdech, notre roi est en mme -temps un pontife qui remplit exactement ses devoirs de fidle comme ses -devoirs de pasteur. Bien qu'occup dans le palais qu'il habite du soin -de rendre la justice, son plus grand dsir est d'imiter l'example des -saints vques. Il quitte la premire charge pour en remplir une autre -avec plus d'honneur, et le souvenir de ses grandes actions lui assure -l'immortalit." - -By the twelfth century the basilica has disappeared, and its place has -been taken, not by a single church, but by two churches side by -side--Sainte Marie on the north, Saint Etienne on the south. At the -beginning of the century Saint Etienne was the more important of the -two, having escaped plunder at the hands of the Normans, who wrought -considerable destruction in the sister church; but a twelfth-century -archdeacon, Etienne de Garlande, took upon himself the task of -restoring Sainte Marie, which became known as the _nova ecclesia_, and -formed the foundation of the great basilica planned by Maurice de Sully. -This church, begun in 1163, was to unite Saint Etienne and Sainte Marie; -the foundation stone was laid by Pope Alexander III., and in 1218 the -remains of the old church of Saint Etienne were destroyed to make way -for the south aisle of Notre Dame. The work went on into the thirteenth -century; the great west portal was probably finished about 1223, and -those of the transepts some forty years later. - -"There are absolutely only these two churches (Notre Dame and the Sainte -Chapelle) left standing in the island of the city, and there is nothing -in the history of Paris which more clearly exhibits the modern -disposition to make a _tabula rasa_ of the past." In the Middle Ages the -great Cathedral of Paris--"cathedral" since the twelfth century--stood -in its island of La Cit amidst a perfect cluster of lesser churches, of -which only the chapel of Saint Louis remains. Mr. Hamerton, whose words -are quoted above, gives quite a considerable list of them in his "Paris -in Old and Present Times," Sainte Genvive, Saint Jean le Rond, Saint -Denis du Pas, and its brother church of La Chartre--these are but a few -of their names, and yet these names are all that now remain of churches -where medival knights and burghers and artificers worshipped, and into -whose building medival architects, unknown and forgotten, put their -best work and their highest service; even their sites are, in most -cases, undiscoverable amongst the great mass of buildings, and bright -wide streets, and green gardens of Paris as we know it. Some of these -churches, like Saint Aignan and Saint Germain-le-Vieux, have left a few -isolated columns and stones, but to find these, as one writer observes, -"il faudrait pntrer dans les maisons et se livrer des recherches." -Another, the old Madeleine, has suffered an even worse fate, its last -remaining chapel being now transformed into a wine-shop at the corner of -the Rue des Marmousets; a private house now stands upon the site of -Saint-Pierre aux Boeufs, built, says an inscription on the faade, in -the middle of the twelfth century, and demolished as late as 1837; and -as for Saint Michel du Palais, within whose walls Archibishop Maurice de -Sully baptised Philip Augustus in 1165, nothing remains to the memory of -the Archangel but the bridge over the Seine. "'There is my bridge -still,' Saint Michael may think, 'but as for my church I seek for it in -vain.'" These vanished churches are too many all to be numbered here, -since in La Cit alone there were, up to the eighteenth century, no less -than seventeen of them, and outside the walls of the city there were -many more. - -[Illustration: NTRE DAME, PARIS] - -Happily Notre Dame has better withstood the attacks of time and all the -accidents of fire, plunder, and desecration. Five years or so after the -completion of the western faade a fire broke out, and in the -restoration the double-arched buttresses of the former apse disappeared, -and the windows were enlarged in accordance with the growing love of -light which was being manifested in other cathedrals all through France. -In more modern times--towards the middle of the eighteenth century--the -extraordinary taste of the late Renaissance period ordered the removal -of all the stained glass both of nave and choir--leaving, however, the -western rose window and the two in the transepts--and this is, of -course, a loss that can never be repaired, although the restorations of -Viollet-le-Duc have probably, as Mr. Hamerton says, gone some way -towards bringing back the original effect of light in the interior of -the church. The exterior of the nave likewise suffered not a little from -the doubtless well-meaning zeal of an unarchitectural age, which had -literally stripped it bare of all ornament: "One after another the -architects had suppressed the advancing parts of the buttresses between -the chapels, the gables, the friezes, the balustrades--in one word, the -entire ornamentation of these same chapels, the pinnacles which -decorated the tops of the buttresses, with the statues which accompanied -them and their flowering spires, the picturesque gargoyles which -rendered the services of throwing the rain-water to a distance from the -walls." - -"We may take it for granted," Mr. Lonergan says in his "Historic -Churches of Paris," "that those who dedicated the church to the Virgin -were not influenced alone by the fact that a previous temple in her -honour had stood on the banks of the river, but by the impetus given to -what Protestants call her 'worship' and Catholics her 'cult' or devotion -in the twelfth century." From the earliest times there existed, -especially among sailors and fishermen, the feeling of devotion to the -Virgin Mary. They prayed to her who held the Divine Infant on her knees -to intercede for the lives of men who sailed across the waters on dark -and starless nights. This worship of the Virgin steadily grew all over -France, and the founders of the great monastic orders--Saint Augustin, -Saint Benedict, and Saint Francis, and the famous Saint Bernard of -Clairvaulx--are all included by Dante as paying special devotion to the -Virgin; and history has furnished us with many other names, amongst -which are those of Hildebert, the bishop of Le Mans, Yves and Pierre, -bishops of Chartres, and the scholar of St. Denis, Pierre Ablard. At -no time was this more noticeable than in the centuries following the -completion of Notre Dame. In consequence of this great growth of -Mary-worship, the Virgin came to be regarded as the protectress of the -people--as, indeed, she is to this day--and the Church of Notre Dame -began to be the people's church, a kind of centre, civil as well as -ecclesiastical, of the city life. For instance, Notre Dame in Paris -became not only the house of worship and prayer, but "the house both of -God and man," and this through no irreverent feeling. The _parvis_ or -garden in front of the Cathedral became a gathering-ground for the -townsfolk--a remnant of this feeling, it would seem, still exists in the -markets which in lesser towns are nearly always held round the -church--fairs took place there, the buyers bringing their purchases to -be blessed by the priest as they passed the church steps; and the -various festivals of the Church gave rise to secular feasts and sports -of all kinds, as well as to the performance of the miracle plays which -were attended by the people with such simple wonder and reverence, and -which in England laid the foundation of the secular comedies. - -The monks of Saint Germain originally came from Autun, and at first -acknowledged the rule of Saint Basil, which was afterwards exchanged for -that of Saint Benedict. After its restoration in the eleventh century -the foundations became very powerful, and round its walls grew up the -_bourg_ of Saint Germain; later it became the Faubourg of that name, the -"intellectual quarter" of Paris, the haunt of all the most brilliant -spirits of the day; whose streets were trodden by great men, and marked -by the footsteps of genius. - -The Abbey Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prs likewise owes its existence -to the Merovingian Childebert. In the sixth century Childebert went on -an expedition against the Visigoths in Spain, and returned triumphant -with a number of sainted relics, among them the tunic of Saint Vincent -and a magnificent gold cross; and in honour of these trophies and for -their safe keeping he built in the fields outside Paris a monastery, -which was consecrated by Saint Germain, so the legend says, the very day -of its royal founder's death. The abbey was originally dedicated, in -memory of the relics which it guarded, to Saint Vincent and the Holy -Cross; but after the death of its first abbot, Saint Germain, in 576, it -became known by his name. Before the building of the Abbey of Saint -Denis, Saint-Germain-des-Prs was the burial place of the royal house, -and a long line of Childeberts, Chilperics, and Chlothars lie at rest -beneath its stones. It was pillaged and burnt by the Normans no less -than five times, and therefore, when the Abbot Morard set about -rebuilding it in the eleventh century, very little was left of -Childebert's old foundation. Part of Morard's work may still be seen in -the present nave of the church; the choir and apse were built later, and -date from the second half of the twelfth century, the church being -finally consecrated by Pope Alexander III. in 1163. - -[Illustration: ST. GERMAIN DES PRS, PARIS] - -The wealth of the monastery even so late as the eighteenth century may -be gauged by the indignation of Arthur Young, who in his travels through -France in 1786-7 of course visited the capital and its many churches, -but looked upon everything with the eye of an agriculturist, and only -saw in the rich meadows of the Benedictines so much wasted material for -a prosperous farm. "It is the richest abbey in France; the abbot has -300,000 liv. a year. I lose my patience at seeing such revenues thus -bestowed, consistent with the spirit of the tenth century, but not with -that of the eighteenth. What a noble farm would a fourth of this income -establish! What turnips, what cabbages, what potatoes, what clover, what -sheep, what wool! Are not these things better than a fat ecclesiastic?" - -Like Saint-Germain-des-Prs, the Sainte Chapelle originated in a -sanctuary where precious relics might be safely deposited, though its -foundation does not date back to the early zeal of the fresh-converted -Merovingian kings, but only to the crusades of Louis the Saint, who -brought from the East the Crown of Thorns and some fragments of the True -Cross. Legend describes the king as walking bare-foot through the -streets of Sens and Paris, displaying his treasure-trove to an adoring -multitude; but it soon became necessary to place the relics in -sanctuary, and accordingly, in 1245, the celebrated architect, Pierre de -Montereau, began to work out his plans under the direction of the king, -and completed his chapel three years later. Its form was a curious one, -consisting of two stages; the upper one, dedicated to the Sainte -Couronne and the Sainte Croix, was reserved for the king and his court; -the lower, bearing the name of the Virgin, was given over to servants, -retainers, and the general multitude. - -This upper chapel, which was then and still is to-day the chief glory of -the building, was on a level with the royal apartments in the adjoining -palace, and could thus be reached without descending into the court and -re-ascending by the staircase. This chapel was the joy of Saint Louis' -life, and during his reign no cost was spared in order to make it a -fitting receptacle for the relics which he venerated and believed in as -simply as a child, and for which he is said to have paid to the -Byzantine emperor the enormous sum of two million _livres_. As it now -stands, the Sainte Chapelle has been almost completely restored, and -this restoration, which was carried out in the last century, was -embarked upon none to soon, judging from the accounts given of the state -of the church after the Revolution. To begin with, it had been -desecrated under the rule of the Goddess of Reason, and used for storing -legal documents and papers; the beautiful glass of its windows, with its -marvellous minuteness of design, was either destroyed or irregularly -patched up; the spire was gone, and so was much of the sculpture and -ornament, both outside and inside. There it stood, this monument of the -piety of St. Louis, its founder forgotten, its glory departed, and its -actual structure in danger of being swept away. Even its ancient -surroundings, the Great Hall, the _Cour de Mai_, and the _Cour des -Comptes_ of Louis XII., had vanished; their place was occupied by modern -law-courts, and the half-ruined church seemed hopelessly out of date and -out of place. By a great stroke of good fortune the balance turned in -its favour; it was decided not to pull it down, but to restore it as a -chapel attached to the courts, where the lawyer might hear Mass; and, -thanks to the care and skill of the restoring architect, it stands -to-day in all essentials much as it did when Louis IX. worshipped there -with his courtiers, when the light from the tall windows streamed in -upon the bright armour and rich garments of hundreds of noble figures, -staining them with new and wonderful colours, and when the courts below -were alive with a motley crowd, townsfolk of Paris, pressing to get a -sight of the king's majesty, servants and retainers thronging round the -doors or filing into Mass in the Chapel of the Virgin below, whose low -roof and vaulting really gave it the appearance of a crypt to the -soaring chapel of the Crown and Cross above it. - -Until the time of Henri II. the kings of France lived in the great -"Salle des Pas Perdus" as their royal palace; then the Parlement of -Paris--a purely legal body--took possession of it, and the easy-going -canons of the Sainte Chapelle ministered not to princes and nobles, but -to the brisk, alert _gens de la robe_, who were quick to note and to -laugh at their comfortable ecclesiastical placidity and ridiculous petty -quarrels. Boileau, the famous satirist, was the son of a registrar, and -grew up under the shadow of the law-courts, and it was he who in his -"Lutrin" victimised the poor, ease-loving prebends and canons more than -any of his fellows, though one of these canons was his own brother, and -after Boileau's death heaped coals of fire upon the head, or rather, -upon the memory, of the poet, by allowing his bones to rest within the -building at whose servants he had so mercilessly mocked. The lawyers -still have the possession of the Sainte Chapelle; but all stalls and -seats have been removed and its doors are opened once a year only, when -the autumn session begins, being inaugurated by the "Messe Rouge," -celebrated by the Archbishop of Paris himself. - -[Illustration: PONT ST. MICHEL AND STE. CHAPELLE, PARIS] - -The Benedictine foundation of Saint Denis, though it stands outside the -walls of the city, in a suburb where the tangle of machinery and smoke -of factories make strange surroundings for the peace of the cloister, -must always claim a right to come within the story of France's capital, -since it is the last resting-place of France's kings. The legends of -Paris and its saints ascribe the original foundation of the abbey church -to the following story, which has come to be very well known, concerning -as it does the patron saint of France. Saint Denis, who, as we have -seen, was the first to evangelise in the marshes of Lutetia, suffered -martyrdom under the Valerian persecutions in the third century, in the -city where his good work had begun; but after his head had been struck -off, the body, instead of falling lifeless at once, rose up from the -block, took the head in its hands, and walked out of the city to the -neighbouring town of Catulliacum, where it finally sought refuge in the -villa of one Catulla, a Roman lady of noble and good repute, who -instantly took possession of her sainted charge and gave him Christian -burial within her garden. So far is legend; at any rate, a chapel was -erected over the shrine, and became, of course, an object of pilgrimage -for many years. Then comes the story of Dagobert, the rebellious young -prince who sought sanctuary in the chapel against the wrath of his -father; and, inspired by a vision of the saint, promised to build a -church on the same site. Accordingly, on his accession to his father's -throne, the Abbey and Church of Saint Denis were founded in about 769. -In the following century the Benedictine monks purchased their immunity -from Norman invaders by large sums of money; but this contract seems to -have availed them little, since the pirates, probably hoping for fresh -plunder, despoiled the monastery as they had despoiled -Saint-Germain-des-Prs. After this the foundation fell into a terrible -state of neglect. Its abbots were fighting men--not necessarily -ecclesiastics, for many nobles in those days held lay abbacies; Hugh -Capet, for instance, was abbot of Saint Martin at Tours--and not until -the day of the famous Suger did it recover anything like its ancient -prestige. Suger was an old pupil of the Benedictines at Saint Denis, and -a fellow-scholar there with the young prince Louis l'Eveill, afterwards -Louis VI., whose chief minister he became in later days. In the days of -his prosperity the abbot devoted himself to restoring and beautifying -the church, and left full instructions to be carried out by his -successor, when death prevented him from finishing what had been so -nobly begun. The work languished again, however, until the reign of -Louis IX., when Eudes de Clment and Matthieu de Vendme took up the -plans once more, and completed the church very much as we now see it. - -It was at Saint Denis that was enacted the romance of the scholar Pierre -Ablard and "la trs-sage Hlois" of Villon, whose story is too well -known--and, perhaps, also too secular--to quote here. Both lie buried -now at Pre-la-Chaise, their remains having been removed from the -monastery at Cluny in 1791 by Lenoir, to his collection of fragments and -old monuments spared from the Revolution. It was after the Revolution -that the abbey suffered more terrible damage and desecration than ever -invading heathens or conquering English had worked there. The -Convention, in its haste to rid the country of every trace of the hated -monarchy, must needs assail dead kings and queens as well as living -ones. Consequently every tomb was ravaged and the dust of a hundred -kings lay mingling with the dust of the common ditch. With the -restoration of the Bourbons, Louis XVIII. ordered also the replacement, -as far as it was possible, of the bones of his dead ancestors; and the -French kings sleep once again at Saint Denis, peaceful and undisturbed -as in other years, though a smoky veil hangs over their resting-place -and the roar of furnaces breaks the quiet of their ancient tombs. - - - - -Index - - -Abadie, M., restoration of St. Pierre, 269. - -Abbaye aux Dames, Caen, 118-119. - -Abbeville on the Somme-- - Church of St. Wolfran, 27-28. - Geological discoveries, 21-22. - Historical sketch, 22-26. - Rue des Trois Cailloux, 27. - -Abbeys and Abbey-Churches-- - St. Denis, 78-81, 381-384. - St. Germain-des-Prs, 372-376. - St. Jean des Vignes, 61. - St. Ouen, 82-83. - Sainte-Colombe, 300. - -Ablard, Pierre, 346, 370, 383. - -Acadmie Franaise, 113; - Bossuet admitted, 334. - -Agenticum, ancient name of Sens, 299. - -Aiguillon, 268. - -Aisne, the, 54. - -Atre de St. Maclou, Rouen, 83-84. - -Alatri, walls of, 261. - -Alcock, Bishop, 274. - -Alcuin, his school of Theology, 184. - -Alenon, 172. - -Alenon, Duc d', attempted siege of Paris, 353-354. - -Alexander III., Pope, 365, 375. - -Allier, the, 358. - -Amaury, Montfort d', family, 90. - -Amboise, 192. - -Amiens Cathedral, 27-37, 75. - -Angers-- - Castle, 175-176. - Cathedral of St. Maurice, 174, 179-180. - "Cheval Blanc," the, 176. - Historical sketch, 169-174. - Prfecture, old cloister in the, 176-179. - Roman basilica, 52. - -Angevin Style, 179-180. - -Angoulme-- - Cathedral of St. Pierre, 268-270. - Historical sketch, 267-268. - -Angoulme, Franois d'. _See_ Francis I. - -Anjou, Counts of, 170-174. - -Anne of Austria, 274. - -Anne of Brittany, 23, 194. - -Anselm of Bec, 121. - -Aquitaine-- - Domed churches of, 262-266. - Truce of God in, 125. - -Archological Institute of Great Britain, 75. - -Arige, Roman walls in, 337. - -Arnauld, 333. - -Arques, surrender of, 248. - -Arras tapestries, 180. - -Ascelin, son of Arthur, 122. - -Attila, attack on Orlans, 223. - -Augustin, St., 370. - -Aurelianum, ancient name of Orlans, 223. - -Autun Cathedral, 302. - -Auxerre-- - Cathedral of St. Etienne, 239, 302-310. - Church of St. Eusbe, 310; - of St. Germain, 305-309. - Htel de l'pe, 310. - -Avallon, 305. - -Avranches, 144. - -Aymer de Valence, tomb at Westminster, 77, 257. - -Azo, Prince of Liguria, 152. - - -Barker, Mr., "Two Summers in Guyenne," 293. - -Bar-sur-Seine, 314. - -"Bastard of Orlans," 215. - -Bayeux-- - Cathedral, 109-110. - Description, 105, 107-108. - Historical sketch, 104, _et seq._ - Lanterne des Morts, 108. - "Maison d'Adam," 108. - Maison du Gouverneur, 108. - Rue des Bouchers, 107; - Rue Gnral de Das, 107; - Rue St. Martin, 107. - Seminary chapel, 110. - Tapestry, the, 110-115. - -Bat, St., Legend of, 40. - -Beaufort, Cardinal, 353. - -Beaugency, 45. - -Beaujeu, Suzanne de, 246. - -Beauvais-- - _Basse oeuvre_, 342. - Bishops of, 344-346. - Cathedral, 341-342. - Historical sketch, 342-347. - Jacquerie revolts, 325-329, 343-344. - Jeanne Hachette, story of, 346-347. - Sieges of, 130-133, 344-345. - -Beauvais, Collge de, 345. - -Benedict, St., 370. - -Benedictines of St. Denis, Paris, 381-384. - -Benvenuto, Cellini, 248. - -Bernard of Auxerre, legend of, 309-310. - -Bernard of Clairvaulx, St., 370. - -Bertrand, St., 167. - -Bessin, district, description, 104-106, 116. - -Bienheur, St., 216. - -"Black Death," 126. - -Black Prince, siege of Limoges, 252-253; - Battle of Poitiers, 274-279. - -Blois-- - Cathedral of St. Louis, 192-193. - Chteau of, 192, 194-200; - tragedy of the, 197-200. - Church of St. Nicholas, 193-194. - -Blcher, siege of Soissons, 57. - -Boileau, "Lutrin," 378. - -Bon Secours Convent, Rouen, 73. - -Bond, Mr., _cited_, 28, 51, 77, 83, 93, 292, 309. - -Bononia, ancient town of, 19. - -Bordeaux-- - Cathedral, 292. - Description, 289-291. - Historical sketch, 290-291. - -Bossuet, sketch of his career, 330-335. - -Boucher, the painter of Versailles, 228. - -Boucher, treasurer of Orlans, 223. - -Bouillon, Godfrey de, 22. - -Boulogne-- - Cathedral, 21. - Historical sketch, 15-21. - Porte Gayole, 21. - -Bourdaloue, 228, 333. - -Bourges-- - Cathedral, 235-236. - Historical sketch, 227-234. - House of Jacques Coeur, 232, 261. - Roman wall of, 337. - -Boy, Jehan le, 94. - -Brtigny, Peace of, 280. - -Bricqueville-Colombires. _See_ Colombires. - -Buch, Captal de, 326-329. - -Buckingham, Duke of, attack on La Rochelle, 282-286. - -Bulet, M., "Dictionnaire Celtique," 357. - - -Caen-- - Abbaye aux Dames, 118-119. - Church of St. Stephen, 118-119; - burial of William I. in, 120-124. - Historical sketch, 116-127. - Truce of God, 122-125. - -Csar, Julius, convocation of the Parisii, 356-359. - -Calixtus, Pope, 231; - council at Rheims, 47. - -Calvados district, 116. - -Candes, 184. - -Canterbury Cathedral, 32; - choir of, 301, 302, 309. - -Cardinal de la Grange, Chapel of, 27, 28. - -Carentan, fall of, 139. - -Castile, 292. - -Cathedrals-- - Amiens, 27-37, 75. - Angers, St. Maurice, 174, 179-180. - Angoulme, St. Pierre, 268-270. - Auxerre, St. Etienne, 239, 302-310. - Bayeux, 109-110. - Beauvais, 341-342. - Blois, St. Louis, 192-193. - Bordeaux, 292. - Boulogne, 21. - Bourges, 235-236. - Chartres, 207-211. - Coutances, 149. - Evreux, 89, 93-94. - La Rochelle, 289. - Lon, 39-42. - Le Mans, St. Julien, 161-163. - Limoges, St. Etienne, 252, 253, 262. - Lisieux, 96. - Meaux, 324-325. - Moulins, 251. - Nevers, St. Cyr, 240-243. - Orlans, 224. - Paris, Notre Dames, 365, 369-371; - the old St. Etienne, 363-364. - Prigueux, St. Etienne, 262. - Poitiers, St. Pierre, 270-273. - Rheims, 48-51. - Rouen, Notre Dame, 74-82. - Saint-L, 133-134. - Senlis, Notre Dame, 338-341. - Sens, St. Etienne, 235, 300-305. - Soissons, Notre Dame, 57-61. - Tours, St. Gatien, 188-193, 337. - Troyes, 319-322. - -Catherine, wife of Henry V., betrothal, 313-314. - -Catulliacum, 381. - -Cauchon, Bishop Pierre, trial of Joan of Arc, 67-72, 344-345. - -Caxton, 106. - -Celts, Saxon opposition in the Bessin, 104. - -Chambord, 192. - -Champagne, Counts of, 310-313. - -Chang, storming of, 158-161. - -Chanzy, General, defence of Le Mans, 157-159. - -Chapelle de la Fierte Saint-Romain, legend of, 78-82. - -Charente, the, 289-290. - -Charlemagne, the, 187, 360. - -Charles I. of England, 282. - -Charles V., Emperor, 24, 247, 314. - -Charles VII., pusillanimity of, 45-46, 350-354; - attempt on Rouen, 72; - reparation to Coutances, 140; - "King of Bourges," 227; - spoliation of Jacques Coeur, 231; - proclaimed at Poitiers, 280; - crowning, 291. - -Charles IX., 197. - -Charles X., 48. - -Charles the Bold, attack on Beauvais, 346-347. - the Fat, policy of, 361. - the Simple, 41, 64, 361. - the Poet-Duke, 197. - Prince Frederick, 156; - taking of Le Mans, 158-161. - -Chartier, Alain, the "Curiale," 105-106; - "Brviare des Nobles," 106-107. - Guillaume, 107. - Jean, 106, 107. - -Chartres-- - Cathedral, 207-211. - Counts of, 202-205. - Franco-Prussian War, capitulation, 206-207. - Henry V. crowned at, 205. - Historical sketch, 201-207. - Porte Guillaume, 202. - Tour-de-Ville, 201-202. - -Chteau-- - Barrire, Prigueux, 258-261. - Blois, 194-200; - the Guise tragedy, 197-200. - Moulins, 248. - -Chteaudun, 206-207; - fall of, 212-215; - the Chteau, 215. - -Chteauneuf, 184. - -Chaumont, 192. - -Chauvigny on the Vienne, 277. - -Chenonceaux, 192. - -Childebert, churches built by, 363-364, 372-375. - -Christianity, introduction into Gaul, 6-7. - -Churches, Abbey or Collegiate, 52-53. - -Clovis, first king of Paris, 47, 56, 89, 360. - -Cluny Monastery, 383. - Muse de, 363-364. - -Coeur, Jacques, story of, 231; - house at Bourges, 232. - -Cognac, 253. - -Coligny, 282. - -Cologne Cathedral, 342. - -Colombires, the Huguenot defence of Saint-L, 129-130; - attacks on Coutances, 143. - -"Colonne de la Grande Arme," Boulogne, 20. - -Commune, founding of the, 152-153; - established at Sens, 300. - -Compigne, siege of, 344-345. - -Cond, 282, 333. - -Condom, Bossuet Bishop of, 334. - -Constable de Bourbon, Charles, story of, 245-248. - -Constantine the Great, 137. - -Constantius Chlorus fortifies Coutances, 137. - -Corday, Charlotte, 96, 127. - -Cordeliers-- - Church at Toulouse, 292. - Convent of, the, at Saint-milion, 297. - -Corporations, Gaulish, 358-359. - -Ctentin, the, 137; - Barons of, 138. - -Coucy, Robert de, building of Rheims Cathedral, 48-51. - -Coutances-- - Bishops of, 145. - Bricqueville-Colombires, 143. - Cathedral, 145-146. - Church of St. Pierre, 137, 145. - Historical sketch, 136-146. - Jardin, Public, 149. - Medival customs, 149, 150. - Muse, the, 149. - -Crcy, 139. - -Crusades, 22-23; - Freeman _quoted_ (see also Truce of God), 124-125. - - -Daboval, M., 40. - -Dagobert, King, story of, 78, 382. - -"Danse Macabre" in the Atre de St. Maclou, 83-84. - -Dante, 370. - -Darnley Stuarts, the, 90. - -Defensor, ruler of Le Mans, 152. - -Denis, St., 359; - Legend of, 381-382. - -Derby, Earl of, relief of Angoulme, 267, 268. - -Dionysius the Areopagite, 359. - -Domrmy, 45. - -Don Pedro, dispute of, 291-292. - -Dordogne, the, 292. - -Dormans, Jean de, Bishop of Beauvais, account of, 345-346. - -Dunois, Captain, 219-220, 354. - - -Edict of Nantes, revocation, effect in Troyes, 315-316. - -Edward I., the _Villes bastides_ of, 293. - -Edward III., campaign in France, 126, 139-140, 344. - -Eleanor of Castile, 23. - -Eleanor of Poitou, 100; - dowry, 279-280, 290-291. - -Eleutherius, St., 359. - -Emilion the Hermit, 294. - -Enamel workers of Limoges, 251, 254-258. - -English influence on French architecture, 75-77. - -Enlart, M., "Manuel d'Archologie Franaise," 32; - on origin of Flamboyant Style, 75. - -Eudes, Count of Paris, 361. - -Eudes de Clment, 383. - -Eureptiolus, Bishop of Coutances, 145. - -Evans, geologist, 21. - -Evreux-- - Boulevard Chambaudin, 93. - Cathedral, 74, 93-84. - Church of St. Taurin, 52, 95. - Description, 88, 89. - Historical sketch, 89-92. - Rue Josephine, 94-95. - - -Faidherbe, General, 84. - -Faence industry at Nevers, 244; - at Limoges, 251-254. - -Falaise, 126. - -Felton, John, 285. - -Fnlon, Abb, 333. - -Fergusson, _cited_, 53, 83, 342. - -Ferri, Paul, Calvinist, 333. - -Feuquires, Marquis de, 333. - -"Five Sisters" at York, 103. - -Flamboyant Style, M. Enlart's paper on origin, 75; - principal features, 75-76. - -Fleury, 333. - -Foix, Earl of, relief of the ladies of Meaux, 325-326. - -Fortunatus' description of St. Etienne, Paris, 363-364. - -Francis I., connection with Abbeville, 24; - "Manoir de Franois 1er," Lisieux, 96; - and Charles de Montpensier, 245-247, 169; - development of enamel painting, 257. - -Franco-Prussian War, incidents in Rouen, 84-87; - incidents near Le Mans, 156-161; - _Times_ Correspondent, _quoted_, 156-161, 168; - capitulation of Chartres, 206-207; - occupation of Orlans, 224. - -Freeman, _cited_, 2, 42, 65, 83, 104-105, 114, - 116, 122-125, 179-180, 235, 243, 252, 261, 273, 277. - -Froissart, _cited_, 253, 279, 343. - -Fulk the Black, Count of Anjou, 139, 171-172, 205. - -Fulk the Good, Count of Anjou, 170-171. - -Fulk the Red, Count of Anjou, 170. - - -Gabelle tax, imposed by Richelieu, 144. - -Gallic cities, origin of, 5-6. - -Gargoyle, the, of Rouen, legend regarding, 81-82. - -Garlande, Etienne de, restoration of Sainte-Marie, 364-365. - -Garonne, port of the, 292. - -Gatianus, St., 183. - -Gaudry, Bishop, 40. - -Gaul, ancient traces in town names, 5-6. - -Geoffrey the Hammer, Count of Anjou, 172-173. - -Geoffrey, Count of Gascony, 248. - -Geoffrey of Mayenne, swears the Civil oath, 155. - -Geoffrey Plantagenet, 99. - -Geoffroy de Montbray, Bishop of Coutances, 121, 145. - -Geological discoveries in the Somme Valley, 21-22. - -Germain, St., 309, 372. - -Gersendis, Countess, 152. - -Gervase, _cited_, 32. - -Gesoriacum, Roman town, 19. - -Gilbert of Evreux, 121. - -Gilbert of Lisieux, 121-122. - -Girondists at Caen, 126-127; - at Saint-milion, 297-298. - -Gisors, 47. - -Gloucester Cathedral, 93. - -Gonzagas, occupation of Nevers, 244. - -Green Croft, Cambridge, 274. - -"Grotte de Saint-milion," 297. - -Guesclin, Bertrand de, 252, 280. - -Guilds, Craftsmen's, in Paris, 360. - -Guise, Cardinal de, 199-200. - -Guise, Henri de, tragedy of, 197-198. - -_Guyale_, meetings of the, 21. - -Guyenne, _villes bastides_ of, 293. - - -Hachette, Jeanne, bravery of, 346-347. - -Hadouin, St., tomb of, 164. - -Hagano, Bishop, 125. - -Hamerton, Mr., "Paris in Old and Present Times," _quoted_, 365-366. - -Ham-sur-Somme, Castle of, 21. - -Harcourt, Geoffrey d', 140. - -Harold of Denmark, 66. - -Headlam, Mr. Cecil, "Story of Chartres," _quoted_, 206-207. - -Hloise, 383. - -Henry I., burning of Evreux, 90. - -Henry II., marriage at Lisieux, 100. - -Henry III., 187, 197. - -Henry IV., of Navarre, crowned at Chartres, 45, 205; - entry into Rouen, 73. - -Henry V., 67, 126, 139; - Agincourt, 197; - betrothal in Troyes, 313-314; - siege of Meaux, 329-330. - -Henry VIII., siege of Boulogne, 19. - -Heremas, Abbot, 46, 47. - -Herodotus, _cited_, 357. - -Herlwin, knight, 120. - -Hilary, Bishop of Poitiers, 184. - -Hildebert, Bishop of Le Mans, 370. - -Hoffbauer, M., "Paris travers les Ages," _cited_, 363-364. - -Htel Rambouillet, 333. - -Hugh, Capet, 22, 362, 382. - -Hugh of Tours, Abp., 171. - -Hugh of Vermandois, 23. - -Hugh the Great, 361. - -Hugues de Morville, Bp., 145. - -Huguenots, troubles at Rouen, 72-73; - stronghold at Saint-L, 129-130; - attack on Coutances, 143; - resistance in La Rochelle, 281-286; - massacre in Troyes, 314-315. - -"Hundred Days," the, 57. - -Hundred Years' War, effect on French Architecture, 76-77, 100. - - -Ingelgar, Count of Anjou, 170. - -Innocent, Pope, troubles with France, 334-335. - - -Jacquerie Revolts, 325-326, 343-344. - -James, Mr. Henry, "Little Tours in France," _cited_, 174, 301, 232-235. - -Jargeau, capture by Jeanne d'Arc, 45. - -Jesus College, Cambridge, 274. - -Joan of Arc, Story of, 45-46; - death at Rouen, 67-72; - relief of Orlans, 218-223; - capture of Troyes, 314; - her capture at Beauvais, 344-345; - the attempted siege of Paris, 350-355. - -John, Duke of Bedford, death, 72. - -John Lackland, 66; - massacre at Evreux, 90. - -John of France, at Poitiers, 274-279. - -Josephine, Empress, 90. - -Julian, Emperor, 359-360. - -Julian, St., bishop of Le Mans, 163; - tomb of, 164. - -Jupiter, temple of, St. Etienne, Paris, built on site, 363. - - -La Beurire quarter of Boulogne, 16. - -La Chartre, 158. - -La Cit, Paris, 365; - Churches of, 365-366. - -La Hire, Captain, 354; - entry into Orlans, 219-220. - -La Rochelle-- - Cathedral, 289. - Historical sketch, 281-286. - Huguenot resistance, 281-286. - Tour de la Chane, 289. - Tour de la Lanterne, 289. - Tour Saint-Nicholas, 286. - Seaport of, 286-287. - -La Trappe monastery, 335. - -La Tremouille, policy of, 354. - -La Trinit, Abbey of, Vendme, 216. - -La Vende, Royalists take Le Mans, 156. - -Laack, Church of, 240. - -Lon-- - Cathedral, 39-42. - Historical sketch, 39-40. - Type of Gaulish hill-city, 38. - -Lancelot, M., discovery regarding the Bayeux tapestry, 113-114. - -Lanfranc, work in Evreux Cathedral, 93. - -Langeais, 192. - -Langres Cathedral, 302. - -Lanterne des Morts, Bayeux, 108. - -Laudus, Bishop, founder of Saint-L, 145. - -Le Mans-- - Cathedral of St. Julian, 161-163. - Characteristics, 151. - Commune founded in, 155. - Franco-Prussian War, incidents, 156-161. - Historical sketch, 151-161. - Notre Dame de la Coture, 163-168. - Notre Dame du Pr, 163-168. - Place des Jacobins, 161. - -Le Sauvage, chief of the Nu-Pieds, 145. - -Leduc, his "peasant girl" in Saint-L, 129. - -Lenoir, 383. - -Leo IX., Pope, Council at Rheims, 46-47. - -Lethaby, Mr., "Medival Art," _quoted_, 179-180. - -Liane river, the, 19. - -Libourne on the Dordogne, 292; - _bastides_ of, 293. - -Lichfield Cathedral, 75. - -Limoges-- - Cathedral of St. Etienne, 252-253, 262. - "Central" Hotel, 251. - Description, 251-253. - Enamel workers of, 251-254. - Historical sketch, 252-254. - Rue du 71^{ime} Mobiles, 254. - -Lisieux-- - Church of St. Jacques, 99; - of St. Pierre, 95, 100-103. - Description, 95-99. - Grande Rue, etc., 96. - Historical sketch, 99-100. - _Hospice_, 100. - Rue du Paradis, 103. - -Limousin, Lonard, enamel work of, 257-258. - -Loire, the, 157; - near Angers, 174; - near Touraine, 181-182; - at Vendme, 216-217. - -Lonergan, Mr., "Historic Churches of Paris," 370. - -Louis le Dbonnair, 57. - -Louis le Jeune, 61. - -Louis Philippe, 20. - -Louis IX., 139; procession through Sens, 300. - -Louis XI., 45; - seizure of Boulogne, 19; - at Plessis-les-Tours, 187; - founds university at Bourges, 227. - -Louis XII., marriage with Mary Tudor, 23-24; - proclamation of, 187; - rooms of, in Chteau de Blois, 196; - and Charles, Constable de Bourbon, 246. - -Louis XIII., 144. - -Louis XIV., 334. - -Louis XVIII., restoration of St. Denis, 383. - -Loup, Saint, bishop of Auxerre, 309. - -Louvre, exhibition of the Bayeux tapestry in the, 114. - -Lucian, St., 343. - -Luitgarde, third wife of Charlemagne, 187. - -Lutetia, _see also_ Paris, 357; - ancient emblems, 357-358. - - -Madeleine, the, Paris, 366. - -Madeleine, Troyes, 322-323. - -Maine, Bishops and Counts of, 151-152. - -Manteuffel, General, 84-87. - -Marguerite de Provence, 300. - -Marne, the, near Paris, 290; - at Meaux, 335-336. - -Martial, St., 252. - -Martin, St., 137, 151, 172, 359; - veneration of, 183-184. - -Martinopolis, 184. - -"Martyrdom" and _Confessio_, terms, 309. - -Mascaron of Tulle, 333. - -Masles, Jean le, 107. - -Massillon, 333. - -Matignon, attack on Saint-L, 129-130. - -Matilda of Flanders, 117. - -Matthieu de Vendme, 383. - -Maupertuis, 277; - plains of, 277. - -Maxime, Sainte, 309. - -Mazarin, Cardinal, 244. - -Meaux-- - Bossuet's connection with, 330-335. - Cathedral, 324-325. - Henry V. besieges, 329-330. - Historical sketch, 325-335. - Jacquerie revolts, 325-329. - Mills of, 335-336. - -Mecklenburg, Duke of, 57, 158, 161. - -Medici, Catherine de', 197. - -Mellon, Saint, 63. - -Melun, 358. - -Metz, 333. - -Midi, the, 258. - -Mittelzal, church of, 240. - -Monstrelet, _cited_, 313-314, 329. - -Montbray, Bishop de, 138. - -Montbray, Cathedral de, demolished by the Huguenots, 143. - -Montereau, Pierre de, 376. - -Montfaucon, discovery regarding the Bayeux tapestry, 113. - -Montrichard, 192. - -Morard, Abbot, 375. - -Morinire, Quesnel, house in Coutances, 149. - -Moulins-- - Cathedral, 251. - Chteau Mal-Coiffe, 248. - Constable de Bourbon, story of, 245-248. - Norman invasion of, 248-251. - "Tour de l'Horloge," 245. - - -Napoleon Bonaparte, 20, 90-93, 114. - -Napoleon III., 20. - -Naut Parisiaci, the, 357-359. - -Naut Tiberis of Rome, 358-359. - -Navarre, King of, punishment of the "Jacquerie," 344. - -Nevers-- - Cathedral of St. Cyr, 240-243. - Church of St. Etienne, 52, 239-240. - Counts of, 236-239. - Ducal Palace, 243. - Faence industry in, 244. - Historical sketch, 236-239. - Porte du Croux, 243-244. - -Nicholas V., Pope, 228. - -Nicolle, tax-gatherer, 144-145. - -Nmes, amphitheatre of, 358-359. - -Normandy-- - Confiscation by Philippe Auguste, 66-67. - Truce of God in, 122-125. - -Norwich, Sir John, defence of Angoulme, 267-268. - -Notre Dame d'Evreux, 74, 93-94. - -Notre Dame de la Coture, Le Mans, 163-164, 292. - -Notre Dame de Lon, 39-42. - -Notre Dame de Paris, 365, 369-371. - -Notre Dame de Rouen, 74-82. - -Notre Dame de Saint-L, 133-134. - -Notre Dame de Senlis, 338-341. - -Notre Dame de Soissons, 57-61. - -Notre Dame du Pr, Le Mans, 163-168. - -Notre Dame la Grande, Poitiers, 274. - -Noviodunum, 236. - -Noyon, crownings at, 42-45. - -Nu-pieds, revolt of the, 126, 144-145. - - -Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, connection with the tapestry, 114; - life story of, 115-116. - -Odo of Chartres, 205. - -Oger the Dane, 64. - -Orlans-- - Cathedral, 224. - Church of St. Bonnet, 228. - Crownings at, 45. - Historical sketch, 218-224. - Les Augustin's, fortress of, 219. - Porte Regnart, 220. - Prussian occupation, 224. - Relief of, 218-223. - Saint Loup, 219. - -Orlans, Charles d', 106. - -Orlans, Gaston d', 197. - -Orlans-Longueville, Franois d', 215. - -Our Lady of Victories, Joan of Arc's dedication, 354-355. - - -Paris-- - Bossuet's sermons, 333-334. - Csar's convocation of the - Parisii, 356-358. - Chapels of, 365-366. - Collge de Beauvais, 345-346. - Early importance, 362-363. - Frankish seizure of, 360. - Historical sketch, 348-363. - La Cit, 365; - Churches of, 365-366. - Lutetia, ancient trade of, 359. - Madeleine, the old, chapels of, 366-369. - Notre Dame, 365, 369-371. - Pont Notre Dame, 358-362. - Rue des Marmousets, 366. - Saint Denis, Benedictine foundation, 381-384. - Saint Etienne, the first Cathedral, 363-364. - Saint Germain-des-Prs, Abbey, Church of, 372-376. - Saint Louis, Chapel of, 365. - Saint Michael du Palais, 366. - Saint Pierre aux Boeufs, Chapel of, 366. - Saint Chapelle, 375-381. - Saint Marie, 365. - "Salle des Pas Perdus," 378. - -Parisian Navigation, the, 357-358. - -"Parisii," meaning of term, 357. - -Parker "Glossary," 31. - -Patay, battle of, 45. - -Pater, Walter, "Miscellaneous Studies," _cited_, 36-37; - "Imaginary Portraits," _cited_, 305-306. - -Pre-la-Chaise Cemetery, 346, 383. - -Prigord, Cardinal de, 278. - -Prigueux-- - Cathedral of St. Etienne, 262. - Chteau Barrire, 258-261. - Church of Saint Front, 258-266. - La Cit, 262. - Tour de Vsone, 258-261. - -Perpendicular Style in England, 76. - -Perpetuus, St., 184. - -Perthes, Boucher de, 23. - -Peter the Hermit, 22. - -Philippe Auguste, confiscation, 66-67, 280, 291; - baptism of, 366. - -Pierre, Bishop of Chartres, 370. - -Plessis-les-Tours, 187-188. - -Poitiers-- - Battle of, 274-279. - Cathedral of St. Pierre, 270-273. - Church of Notre Dame la Grande, 274; - Saint Radgonde, 274. - Historical sketch, 279-280. - Temple Saint Jean, 273. - -Poitou in English hands, 279-280. - -Pomerantin, Castle of, 277. - -Pont Notre Dame, 358, 362. - -Ponts d'Ouve, the, 139. - -Porches of French Cathedrals, evolution from the narthex, 319-322. - -Porte du Croux, Nevers, 243-244. - -Porte Gayole, Boulogne, 21. - -Potentian, St., 202, 300. - -Poupinel, 144. - -"Prcieuses," the, 333. - -Presle, Collge de, 346. - -Prestwick, 23. - -Prout, drawings, 24, 36. - - -Queen Eleanor's Cross, Northampton, 77. - - -Radgonde, Saint, 274. - -Ratuma or Ratumacos, early name of Rouen, 63. - -Raymond of Toulouse, 23. - -Ravenna, 309. - -R, Island of, 282. - -Remigius, St., legend of, 47-48. - -Rheims-- - Cathedral, 48-51. - Church of St. Remi, 52-53. - Historical sketch, 42-50. - Htel de Moulinet, 53. - Joan the Maid, story of, 45-46. - Papal Councils, 46-47. - -Rheims, Archbishop of, policy, 354. - -Richard the Fearless, 66, 90; - brought up at Bayeux, 105; - his widow builds Coutances Cathedral, 145. - -Richard II., birthplace at Bordeaux, 291. - -Richelieu imposes the Gabelle tax, 144-145; - siege of the Huguenots of La Rochelle, 282-286. - -Richemont, Constable de, 140. - -Robert d'Artois, 300. - -Robert of Flanders, 23. - -Robert of Lisieux, Bishop of Coutances, 145. - -Robert of Normandy, 22, 66. - -Robert of Paris, loss of Neustria, 64-65. - -Rolf the Ganger, 19, 62; - invasion of Rouen, 64; - conversion, 65-66; - settlement of Lisieux, 99-100; - possession of Bayeux, 104. - -Romain, St., Bishop of Rouen, legend, 81-82. - -Roman Conquest, effect on Gaul, 5-10. - -Roman de Rou, the, 65. - -Roman Remains, Basilica of Angers, 52; - at Prigueux, 258-261; - at Bourges, 261; - Practorium Ramparts at Senlis, 336-337; - Palace of the Thermes, near Paris, 357. - -Rouen-- - Atre de St. Maclou, 83-84. - Basse-Vieille-Tour, 78. - Cathedral, 74-82. - Chapelle de la Fierte Saint-Romain, 78-81. - Church of St. Maclou, 83. - Church of St. Ouen, 82-83. - Description of, 73-74. - Franco-Prussian War, incidents, 84-87. - Historical sketch, 62-75. - Huguenot troubles, 72-73. - Jeanne d'Arc, trial of, 67-72. - Market-place, 45. - Place and Haute-Vielle-Tour, 78. - Rue Martainville, 83. - Tour Jeanne d'Arc, 67. - -Roy, General, 84. - -Ruskin, criticisms on Abbeville, 27; - Amiens Cathedral, 28; - on Rouen Churches, 74-75, 83; - Diary, _quoted_--Amiens Cathedral by the Somme, 32-36; - drawings of Abbeville, 27. - -Rusticus, St., 359. - - -Saint Aignan, Churches of, 366. - -Saint Bonnet, Church of, Orlans, 228. - -Saint Clair-sur-Epte, treaty at, 64. - -Saint Cyr, Cathedral, Nevers, 240-243. - -Saint Denis, Paris, Benedictine Foundation, 381-384. - -Saint Etienne, Auxerre, 305-306; - Limoges, 252-253, 262; - Nevers, 52, 239-240; - Paris, 363-364; - Sens, 300-305. - -Saint Eureptiolus, Basilica of, Coutances, 138. - -Saint Eusbe, Church of, Auxerre, 310. - -Saint Front, Church of, Priguex, 258-261. - -Saint Gall, Church of, Switzerland, 240. - -Saint Gatien, Cathedral, Tours, 337-338. - -Saint George's Chapel, Windsor, 51. - -Saint Germain, Church of, Auxerre, 305-309. - -Saint Germain-des-Prs, Abbey, Church, Paris, 372-376. - -Saint Germain-le-Vieux, 366. - -Saint Jacques, Church of, Lisieux, 99. - -Saint Jean des Vignes, Soissons, 61. - -Saint Jean, temple of, Poitiers, 273. - -Saint Julien, Cathedral, Le Mans, 161-163. - -Saint Julien du Pr, Le Mans, 163-167. - -Saint Lizier, Roman Walls of, 337. - -Saint-L -- - Basse Ville, the, 130, 133. - Cathedral, 133-134. - Historical sketch, 128-138. - Maison Dieu, 133. - Place Ferrier, 129. - Rue Torterton, 128. - Tour Beauregard, 129, 130. - Tour de la Rose, 130. - -Saint Louis, Cathedral of, Blois, 192-193. - -Saint Maclou, Rouen, 83. - -Saint Mark's, Venice, influence on style of Saint Fronte, 262-263. - -Saint Martin, Church of, Tours, 52; - Fort of, on the Island of R, 282. - -Saint Maurice, Cathedral, Angers, 174, 179-180, 273. - -Saint Mdard, Abbey of, Soissons, 57. - -Saint Michael du Palais, Paris, 366-369. - -Saint Nicholas, Church of, Blois, 193-194. - -Saint Pierre, Cathedral, Angoulme, 269-273; - Church, Auxerre, 305; - Coutances, 137, 145; - Lisieux, 95, 100-103; - Poitiers, 270-273; - Senlis, 337-338. - -Saint Remi, Church of, Rheims, 52-53; - Monastery of, 46-47. - -Saint Sauveur-le-Vicomte, Chteau of, 140. - -Saint Stephen's, Caen, burial of William I., 120-122. - -Saint Taurin, Church of, Evreux, 52, 95. - -Saint Urbain Cathedral, Troyes, 74, 75, 322. - -Saint Wolfran, Church of, Abbeville, 27. - -Sainte Chapelle, Paris, 375-381. - -Sainte Colombe, Abbey, Sens, 300. - -Sainte Croix, nuns of, 274. - -Sainte Emilion-- - Grotte of, 297-298. - Vineyards of, 294. - -Sainte Marie, Paris, 364-365. - -Sainte Radgonde, Church of, Poitiers, 274. - -Salisbury Cathedral, 75. - -Saumur, 171. - -Savinian, St., 202, 300. - -Saxon inhabitants of the Bessin, 104. - -Scott, "Quentin Durward," 187-188. - -Seine, the, 64; - towards Evreux, 88-89. - -Selby Abbey, Yorkshire, 309. - -Semur, 305. - -Senlis-- - Cathedral of Notre Dame, 338-341. - Church of St. Pierre, 337-338. - Historical sketch, 336-337. - Roman remains, 336-337. - -Sens-- - Abbey of Sainte-Colombe, 300. - Cathedral of St. Etienne, 235, 300-305. - Historical sketch, 299-301. - -Soissons-- - Abbey of St. Jean des Vignes, 61. - Cathedral of Notre Dame, 58-61. - Historical sketch, 54-58. - -Somerset, Duke of, 72. - -Somme river, the, 32-36. - -Somme valley, geological discoveries, 21, 22. - -Sorel, Agnes, 231. - -South Kensington Museum, 75. - -Spiers, Mr., "Architecture East and West," 239-240, 262-265. - -Stephen of Blois, 23, 99. - -Strabo, _cited_, 359. - -Suger, Minister of Louis VI., 382. - -Sully, Maurice de, 365-366. - -Syagrius, "Romanorum Rex," 54. - - -Taillefer, the warrior, 138. - -Tancred, the "Very perfect gentle knight," 23. - -Tapestry, the Bayeux, 110-115. - -Taurin, Saint, 89, 95. - -Temple Church, 110. - -Texier, Jean le, 207. - -Theobald or Thibaut, Count of Chartres, 202. - -Thrain valley, 341. - -Thermes, Roman Palace of the, 357. - -Thibaut, Count, of Anjou, 172. - -Thibaut, Count, of Chartres, 90. - -Thibaut le Tricheur, Count of Chartres, 205. - -Thibaut IV., Count of Troyes, 315. - -Thomas Becket, St., 100; - at Sens, 300, 301. - -"Toillette de Duc Guillaume," 114. - -Toulouse, Church of the Cordeliers, 292. - -Tour Beauregard, Saint-L, 129. - -Tour de la Chane La Rochelle, 289. - -Tour de la Lanterne, La Rochelle, 289. - -Tour de Vsone, Prigueux, 258-261. - -Tour St. Nicholas, La Rochelle, 286. - -Touraine, description of, 181-182. - -Tours-- - Angevin struggle for, 171-172. - Church of St. Gatien, 188-192, 337. - Church of St. Martin, 52. - Historical sketch, 183-188. - Rue des Halles, 184. - Tour Charlemagne, 187. - Tour de l'Horloge, 187. - -Toury, Cloister of, 321. - -Treaty of Troyes, 313-314. - -"Triforium," description of term, 32. - -Troyes-- - Cathedral of St. Urbian, 74-75, 318-322. - Commerce and Fairs of, 315-319. - Historical sketch, 310-319. - Huguenot massacre, 314-315. - Treaty of Henry V., 313-314. - -Truce of God, 47; - preached in Normandy, 122-125. - - -Ursin, St., 99. - - -Valonges, fall of, 139. - -Vaurus, the bastard of, death of, 330. - -Vendme-- - Abbey of La Trinit, 216. - Counts of, 215-216. - Loire at, 216-217. - -Venetian Colonies at Limoges, 266. - -Venice, St. Mark's, style influences architecture of Saint Front, 262-266. - -Vercingetorix, 299. - -Verheilh, M. Flix de, 266. - -Vieil-Evreux, Roman Settlement, 89. - -_Villes bastide_, the, of Guyenne, 293-294. - -Vincent, St., Childebert's Church, 372-375. - -Viollet-le-Duc, _cited_, 28, 41-45, 48-51, 265, 270-273, 302, 342; - panegyric on Chartres Cathedral, 211; - restorations in Notre Dame, 369. - -Vire, the, 130. - - -"Week of Battles," 1871, the 156. - -Wells Cathedral, 75; - tomb of William de la Merche, 77. - -Westminster Abbey, 109; - tomb of Aymer de Valence, 77, 257. - -Whewell, _quoted_, 93, 94, 100, 110. - -William de la Merche, tomb at Wells, 77. - -William Longsword, 66, 105, 138. - -William of Poitiers, 116. - -William the Conqueror, 66; - connection with Caen, 117-126; - funeral at Caen, 120-122; - at Le Mans, 155; - struggle with Geoffrey the Hammer, 172; - at Moulins, 248-251. - -Wittich, General von, 207. - -Wolsey, Cardinal, the French alliance, 24. - - -Yonne River, 299; - at Sens, 301. - -Young, Arthur, account of the Guise tragedy, 199-200; - indignation of, 375; - Rouen, description of, _quoted_, 73. - -Yves, Bishop of Chartres, 370. - - - - * * * * * - - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -St. Front, Perigueux=> St. Front, Prigueux {pg x} - -has gazed up at the great buttressed hill, silhoutted=> has gazed up at -the great buttressed hill, silhouetted {pg 38} - -RUE DE L'HORLAGE, ROUEN=> RUE DE L'HORLOGE, ROUEN {pg 79} - -Charlottle Corday spent=> Charlotte Corday spent {pg 96} - -Another memory of the Conquerer in Caen=> Another memory of the -Conqueror in Caen {pg 122} - -CONTANCES=> COUTANCES {pg 141} - -THE SOUTH PORCH OF THE CATHEDRAL, CONTANCES=> THE SOUTH PORCH OF THE -CATHEDRAL, COUTANCES {pg 147} - -ST. PIERRE, CONTANCES=> ST. PIERRE, COUTANCES {pg 153} - -converted him to Christianty=> converted him to Christianity {pg 152} - -Goeffrey of Mayenne=> Geoffrey of Mayenne {pg 155} - -the Duke of Mecklenburg and Von der Taun=> the Duke of Mecklenburg and -Von der Tann {pg 161} - -If Le Mans marks the first stage from Normandy upon the southward road, -Angiers=> If Le Mans marks the first stage from Normandy upon the -southward road, Angers {pg 169} - -TOUR DE L'HORLAGE, TOURS=> TOUR DE L'HORLOGE, TOURS {pg 185} - -Tour de la Chaine=> Tour de la Chane {pg 286} - -salon of the Htel Rambouillet=> salon of the Hotel Rambouillet {pg 333} - -was vested in the spiritul power=> was vested in the spiritual power {pg -343} - -The beseiging army of Charles the Bold=> The besieging army of Charles -the Bold {pg 346} - -leaving Charles at Compigne=> leaving Charles at Compigne {pg 353} - -and indeed the eccleciastical=> and indeed the ecclesiastical {pg 360} - -Archibishop Maurice de Sully=> Archbishop Maurice de Sully {pg 366} - -"Manned d'Archologie Franaise,"=> "Manuel d'Archologie Franaise," -{pg 388} - -Tour Charlemange, 187=> Tour Charlemange, 187 {pg 395} - -La Beuriere quarter of Boulogne, 16.=> La Beurire quarter of Boulogne, -16. {index} - -Louis le Debonnair, 57.=> Louis le Dbonnair, 57. {index} - -Orleans=> Orlans {pg x, 71, 390} - -"Precieuses," the, 333.=> "Prcieuses," the, 333. {index} - -Radgonde, Saint, 274.=> Radegonde, Saint, 274. {index} - -Saint-Emilion=> Saint-milion {index} - -PERIGUEUX=> PRIGUEUX {pg 13, 258. 265} - -Lancelot, M., discovery regarding the Bayeaux tapestry, 113-114.=> -Lancelot, M., discovery regarding the Bayeux tapestry, 113-114. {index} - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Cathedral Cities of France, by -Herbert Marshall and Hester Marshall - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CITIES OF FRANCE *** - -***** This file should be named 40390-8.txt or 40390-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/3/9/40390/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This ebook was -produced from scanned images of public domain material at -Internet Archive.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Cathedral Cities of France - -Author: Herbert Marshall - Hester Marshall - -Release Date: August 1, 2012 [EBook #40390] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CITIES OF FRANCE *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This ebook was -produced from scanned images of public domain material at -Internet Archive.) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<table summary="note" border="4" cellpadding="10" style="background-color: #ffffff; -margin-right:auto;margin-left:auto;max-width:60%;"> - <tr> - <td valign="top">Certain typographical errors have been corrected (<a href="#TRANS">see list at the end -of this etext</a>.). Except for a few normalizations, the spelling of French -words and names has not been corrected, but left as the writer wrote them.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_cover_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="326" height="550" -alt="image of the book's cover" -title="image of the book's cover" /></a> -</p> - -<p><a name="FRONT" id="FRONT"></a></p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_008_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_008_sml.jpg" width="550" height="366" -alt="LÂON, VIEW FROM THE PLAIN" -title="LÂON, VIEW FROM THE PLAIN" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">LÂON, VIEW FROM THE PLAIN</span> -</p> - -<h1> -CATHEDRAL CITIES<br /> -OF FRANCE</h1> - -<p class="cb">BY<br /> -HERBERT MARSHALL, R.W.S.<br /> -AND<br /> -HESTER MARSHALL<br /> -<br /> -WITH SIXTY ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR<br /> -BY HERBERT MARSHALL, R.W.S.<br /> -<br /><br /><br /> -<img src="images/colophon.png" -width="125" -height="165" -alt="colophon" title="colophon" /> -<br /> -<span class="red">TORONTO<br /> -<br /> -THE MUSSON BOOK CO., Limited<br /> -<br /> -1907</span></p> - -<p> </p> - -<p class="c"><small> -C<small>OPYRIGHT</small>, 1907, B<small>Y</small><br /> -DODD, MEAD & COMPANY<br /> -<i>Published September, 1907</i></small> -</p> - -<p> </p> - -<h2><a name="NOTE" id="NOTE"></a>NOTE</h2> - -<p class="nind">The following chapters are the result of notes put together during -summers spent in France in the course of the last five years. They are -not intended to mark out any particular geographical scheme, though -considered as isolated suggestions they may possibly prove useful to the -intending traveller; nor do they aim at covering all the Cathedral -cities of France.</p> - -<p>The authors are indebted for much valuable help from the following -books: Viollet-le-Duc’s “Dictionnaire de l’Architecture”; Mr. Phené -Spiers’s “Architecture East and West”; Mr. Francis Bond’s “Gothic -Architecture in England”; Mr. Henry James’s “Little Tour in France”; Mr. -Cecil Headlam’s “Story of Chartres”; Freeman’s “History of the Norman -Conquest” and “Sketches of French Travel”; Dr. Whewell’s “Notes on a -Tour in Picardy and Normandy”; M. Guilhermy’s “Itineraire archéologique -de Paris”; M. Hoffbauer’s “Paris à travers les ages”; M. Enlart’s -“Architecture Réligieuse”; Mr. Walter Lonergan’s “Historic Churches of -Paris”; the “Chronicles” of Froissart and Monstrelet; and to the letters -in <i>The Times</i> of its war correspondent, 1870 and 1871.</p> - -<p class="r">H. M. M. and H. M.</p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td><small>CHAPTER</small></td><td> </td><td><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_One">I</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">A French Cathedral City</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_001">1</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Two">II</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Boulogne to Amiens</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_015">15</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Three">III</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Lâon, Rheims, and Soissons</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_038">38</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Four">IV</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Rouen</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_062">62</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Five">V</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Evreux and Lisieux</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_088">88</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Six">VI</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Bayeux</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_104">104</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Seven">VII</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">St. Lô and Coutances</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_128">128</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Eight">VIII</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Le Mans</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_151">151</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Nine">IX</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Angers</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_169">169</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Ten">X</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Tours and Blois</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_181">181</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Eleven">XI</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Chartres</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_201">201</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Twelve">XII</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Orléans, Bourges, and Nevers</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_218">218</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Thirteen">XIII</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Moulins, Limoges, and Périgueux</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_245">245</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Fourteen">XIV</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Angoulême and Poitiers</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_267">267</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Fifteen">XV</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">La Rochelle and Bordeaux</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_281">281</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Sixteen">XVI</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Sens, Auxerre, and Troyes</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_299">299</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Seventeen">XVII</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Meaux, Senlis, and Beauvais</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_324">324</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right"><a href="#Chapter_Eighteen">XVIII</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Paris and Some of its Churches</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_348">348</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Index">Index</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_385">385</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td>Lâon: view from the plain</td><td><a href="#FRONT"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td>St. Martin, Lâon</td><td><i>Facing Page</i></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_002">2</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Quayside, Amiens</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_006">6</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>A Street in Perigueux </td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_010">10</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Porte Gayole, Boulogne</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_016">16</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Abbeville</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_024">24</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Place Vogel, Amiens</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_028">28</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Evening on the Somme at Amiens</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_032">32</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Ramparts, Lâon</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_042">42</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Lâon from the Boulevards</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_048">48</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Rheims</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_054">54</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Soissons</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_058">58</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Rouen from the River</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_068">68</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Rue de l’Horloge, Rouen</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_078">78</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Rue St. Romain, Rouen</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_084">84</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Evreux</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_090">90</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Towers of Evreux</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_096">96</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>St. Jacques, Lisieux</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_100">100</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>A Street Corner, Bayeux</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_110">110</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Bayeux from the Meadows</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_122">122</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>St. Lô</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_130">130</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Cathedral Front, St. Lô</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_134">134</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Coutances</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_140">140</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The South Porch of the Cathedral, Coutances</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_146">146</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>St. Pierre, Coutances</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_152">152</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Le Mans</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_158">158</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Nôtre Dame de la Coûture, Le Mans</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_164">164</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Angers</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_176">176</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Tour de l’Horloge, Tours</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_184">184</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>St. Gatieu, Tours</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_188">188</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Blois</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_194">194</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Chartres from the North</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_202">202</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Chartres</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_208">208</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Rue de la Porte Guillaume, Chartres</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_212">212</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Orléans</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_220">220</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The House of Jacques Cœur, Bourges</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_224">224</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Bourges</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_228">228</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Musée Cujas, Bourges</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_232">232</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Hôtel-de-Ville, Nevers</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_236">236</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Port du Croux, Nevers</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_240">240</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Moulins</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_248">248</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Limoges</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_254">254</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Perigueux from the River</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_258">258</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>St. Front, Périgueux</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_262">262</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Angoulême</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_270">270</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Poitiers</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_274">274</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Entrance to the Harbour, La Rochelle</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_282">282</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Harbour of La Rochelle</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_286">286</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Bordeaux</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_294">294</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Sens</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_302">302</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>St. Germain, Auxerre</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_306">306</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Bridge and Cathedral, Auxerre</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_310">310</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>A Street in Troyes</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_316">316</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Meaux</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_326">326</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Old Mills at Meaux</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_330">330</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Senlis</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_338">338</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Pont Marie, Paris</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_350">350</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Nôtre Dame, Paris</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_366">366</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>St. Germain des Prés, Paris</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_372">372</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Pont St. Michel and Ste. Chapelle, Paris</td><td><span class="ditto">"</span><span class="ditto">"</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_378">378</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_One" id="Chapter_One"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_1.png" -width="149" -height="29" -alt="Chapter One" -title="Chapter One" -/><br /><br /> -<small>A FRENCH CATHEDRAL CITY</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_t.png" -width="60" -height="61" -alt="T" -title="T" -/></span>HERE are in France to-day three distinct classes of cities—one might -even add, of cathedral cities—and as the bishopric is a dignity far -more usual in France than in England, “cathedral” may serve for the -present as a term inclusive of many towns.</p> - -<p>Firstly, there is the town whose local importance has remained unchanged -through a succession of centuries and an eventful history, which has -added a modern importance to that bequeathed to it by Time. Such towns -are Le Mans, Angers, Amiens and Rouen. Secondly, we find the towns whose -glory has departed, but who still preserve the outward semblance of that -glory, though they remind us in passing through them of a body without a -spirit, of an empty house, whose inhabitants are long dead and have left -behind them only the echoes of their past footsteps. These towns are a -picturesque group, and if we go back upon the centuries, we shall find -in<a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a> them the centre of much that has made history for our modern eyes to -read. Look at Chartres and Bayeux, and Lâon and Troyes, for embodiments -of this type. And lastly, there are the cities which exactly reverse the -foregoing state of affairs, and owe their growth to the kindly fostering -of a later age—an age which has learnt wisdom more quickly than its -predecessors, and has learnt, moreover, to love the whirr of engines and -the busy paths of commerce more than the safe keeping of ancient -monuments and the reading of history in the worn greyness of their -stones. Among these we may count Havre; but of this class it is more -difficult to find examples in France, although in England the north -country is thick with such mushroom cities.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_019_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_019_sml.jpg" width="388" height="550" -alt="ST. MARTIN, LÂON" -title="ST. MARTIN, LÂON" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ST. MARTIN, LÂON</span> -</p> - -<p>The history of the growth of one Gaulish town may easily serve for that -of another: later days decided its continued importance or its gradual -decay, as the case might be; and, as Freeman points out in his essay -upon French and English towns, “the map of Roman Gaul survives, with but -few and those simple changes in the ecclesiastical map of France down to -the great Revolution.” Thus the history of these cities affected -themselves alone and not, to any great extent, the lands in which they -stood. It is a salient testimony to the lasting influence of ancient -Gaul that in most town-names some trace can be<a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a><a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a><a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a> found of the old name, -either of the tribe which inhabited it, or of the territory belonging to -that tribe; and even under the Roman rule the Gallic forms did not -entirely disappear. Later, when the Franks came from the East, one would -suppose that they had names of their own for the conquered cities; but -if this were the case, these names have not come down to us—all of -which goes to show that the Frankish dominion, though it lasted on, and -gave to the land her ablest dynasty of kings, had no real rooted -influence in the country, and that France, as relating to ancient Gaul, -is a formal and almost an empty title.</p> - -<p>The Gallic cities owed their origin in the earliest times, naturally, to -their situation. The roving tribes, looking for a settlement, would -choose a camping ground either on a rocky hill, where they could safely -entrench themselves against a possible enemy, or on an island in the -midst of a river or marsh, where the surrounding fens would be an -efficient safeguard; and it speaks well for their choice, that when the -Romans came, skilled in the knowledge of war, offensive and defensive, -they did not destroy the settlements of the conquered tribes, but -rebuilt and fortified them according to the inimitable pattern of Rome, -not effacing but improving what was already to hand. Instead of the rude -Gallic huts, stately palaces rose up, with their<a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a> marble baths; -aqueducts threw a succession of arches to the nearest water source, -theatres sloped up the hill-side, bridges crossed the river, and where -the grottoes of the Druidic or other primitive faiths had been, rose the -columns and friezes of splendid temples to Jupiter and Diana and Apollo. -Certainly it was a change for the better; and the appearance of many of -these towns under the Cæsars was probably much more imposing, though -perhaps less picturesque, than that which they presented in mediæval -days. In the later Roman era a new element introduces itself. From the -early Christian Church at Rome come missionary saints; not saints in -those days, but often the poorest and meanest of the brethren, charged -with a message to Gaul—Hilary, Martin, Dionysius, and the others. -Fierce conflicts follow, persecutions, burnings, martyrdoms—Dionysius -bears witness at Lutetia, Savinian and Potentian at Sens—and at last -the first church arises within the city, poor and meagre very often in -comparison with the huge pagan temples which it replaces, but loved and -venerated by the faithful few, and, best of all, the origin of the grand -cathedrals which are now the glory of France.<a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a> -<a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a><a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a>“The votaries of the new -creed found a home within the walls of their seats of worship such as -the votaries of the elder creed had never found within theirs. And -around the church arose the dwellings of the bishop and his clergy, a -class of men destined to play no small part in the history of the land.” -In the Christian city, then, we can begin to trace the beginnings of the -mediæval city. Other foundations sprang up in time within the walls—a -baptistery was built, as at Aix and Poitiers, to meet the needs of the -flocks of converts; other churches perpetuated the memory of some saint; -among the river meadows some royal or saintly founder saw a fitting spot -for a convent, and the abbey church arose, with its cloisters, -dormitories and refectories, and all the other fair buildings in which -the early brothers took such a loving pride. Then the bishop himself, -with his dignity growing as the Christian faith advanced, must be housed -as befitted a deputy of the Holy See; and forthwith sprang up those -lordly <i>évêchés</i> which even now serve to remind us of their ancient -beauty, though in some cases the civil arm has taken them over, and -converted them into hôtels de ville. Then came the barbarian inroads, -first of Vandals, Huns, Franks and the rest, next of Normans. These -attacked, but could not destroy, or even permanently harm, the position -of the city; and when the invaders had either gone their way or settled -down in the land, new elements of strength and importance were added to -the township:<a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a> castles and strongholds were built up for the great men -who had taken possession of the chief cities, and the great civil or -feudal power of the dukes and counts began to exercise its jurisdiction -side by side with the old-established influence of the Church. Then, as -was notably the case at Le Mans and Troyes, the growing commercial -importance of a town would force a communal charter from the seigneur; a -burgher quarter would rise, quite as important as the quarter of the -nobles and the clergy, and thus the city would become trebly -strengthened, except, indeed, when, as was sometimes the case, one power -resented the fancied encroachments of the other and made war upon its -neighbours.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_023_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_023_sml.jpg" width="369" height="550" -alt="THE QUAYSIDE, AMIENS" -title="THE QUAYSIDE, AMIENS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE QUAYSIDE, AMIENS</span> -</p> - -<p>This power within itself was undoubtedly all to the advantage of the -city; but it was fatal to the unity of the kingdom, since it cut France -up into a mass of separate states, any one of which could, on the -occasion of a quarrel with the sovereign—and these quarrels were rather -the rule than the exception—fortify itself by means of its count, its -castle and its city walls, and defy the royal forces at its pleasure. -While cathedral cities in England were drawing closer and closer to the -king as their head, and thereby sinking their own strength in the unity -of the Crown, those in France were<a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a><a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a><a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a> striving at a power apart from the -Crown, or, rather, striving to maintain a power which the Crown had -never yet been able to incorporate with itself. Thus a city of France -has a much more varied, a much more individual history than has the -sister city in England; a story less bound up as part of the great whole -of the history of the French kingdom, more concentrated within its own -walls, and therefore more tangible, if it be desired to study it -irrespective of that whole history. This, then, is the story of its -growth from almost pre-historic days. Whether, as an individual city, it -flourished after the Middle Ages had fortified and strengthened it, or -whether it fell into a state of quiet, picturesque and peaceful decay, -depended of course upon particular circumstances, but enough remains to -make of the general history of the French city a fascinating though -almost inexhaustible study, only surpassed by the study of each town in -its separate case.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_027_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_027_sml.jpg" width="363" height="550" -alt="A STREET IN PÉRIGUEUX" -title="A STREET IN PÉRIGUEUX" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A STREET IN PÉRIGUEUX</span> -</p> - -<p>Wars and revolutions have done their best to destroy what Time had -kindly tried to preserve for our delight; nevertheless, a cathedral town -in France of to-day is a very pleasant place, and offers exceptional -opportunity for the study of French life in almost every aspect. Our -business here, however, is with the cathedrals and the historical<a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a> side -of the town, rather than with the lighter points of view; and such -things as every traveller will encounter in the course of his journeys, -the crowd outside the <i>cafés</i>, the weekly markets, the festivals, civil -and ecclesiastical, the quaint ways and speech of the peasant folk and -the <i>contretemps</i> of hotel life have not only been described before, -times without number, but are such as will be fairly obvious to the -average observer, and, if he has never travelled before, will come all -the more as a pleasant surprise if he is left to find them out for -himself. If, as is more likely to be the case in this enlightened age, -he is an experienced traveller, he will know them all by heart, and -perhaps be inclined to cavil at having them set before him once again in -a light which could not pretend to any novelty.<a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Two" id="Chapter_Two"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_2.png" -width="153" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Two" -title="Chapter Two" -/><br /><br /> -<small>BOULOGNE TO AMIENS</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_b.png" -width="60" -height="60" -alt="B" -title="B" -/></span>OULOGNE is perhaps too near the starting point to arrest the -outward-bound traveller; he ranks it with Calais, Dieppe, and Havre, as -a place to be passed through as quickly as possible; and the splendid -train service to Paris naturally makes him hesitate to break his journey -at Boulogne. The general tendency in England is to despise the French -railway service, and some guide-books even now tell us that the average -speed of a French express is from thirty-five to forty-five miles an -hour, also that the trains invariably pass each other on the left-hand -side. As a matter of fact, all the main lines follow the same rule of -the road which obtains in England, and as to average speed, the run from -Calais to Paris equals, if it does not exceed, that of any long-distance -train-service in our own country, covering the distance of 185 miles at -the rate of fifty-six miles an hour.<a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a></p> - -<p>As a seaport and fishing centre, Boulogne is one of the most interesting -and important towns in France; and its fishing-boats sail out in great -numbers to the North Sea for the cod fishery along the north coast of -Scotland. When the herring fishing begins, Boulogne adds its contingent -to the fleets of Cornwall, to the luggers of the West Coast, and to the -cobbles of Whitby; and on the eve of the departure to the -fishing-ground, the fisherman’s quarter, known as La Beurière, is alive -with the orgies of its sailor population. Dancing takes place on the -quays, and short entertainments are held in an improvised theatre, while -the rich brown-ochre sails of the splendid luggers and smacks are -stretched from deck to deck, forming an awning under which the owners -and captains meet together with their friends to wish success to the -undertaking of those who “go down to the sea in ships, and occupy their -business in great waters.”</p> - -<p>Boulogne has the reputation of being the most Anglicised of French -towns, and was in years gone by often associated with the seamy side of -society. Many a stranger found here a convenient refuge, and Mr. -Deuceace and other of Thackeray’s heroes enjoyed the sea breezes of -Boulogne after the mental strain of somewhat questionable financial -manœuvres.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_033_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_033_sml.jpg" width="347" height="550" -alt="THE PORTE GAYOLE, BOULOGNE" -title="THE PORTE GAYOLE, BOULOGNE" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE PORTE GAYOLE, BOULOGNE</span> -</p> - -<p>The city walls, restored in the sixteenth or<a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a><a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a><a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a> seventeenth century, -date back to 1231, and were built on the foundations of the ancient town -of Bononia, generally identified with the Roman Gesoriacum, though not -on very reliable authority. From its position on the high grassy cliffs -of Picardy, guarding the little river Liane and looking out over the -waves to the white line of the English shore, Boulogne in other days had -an importance quite distinct from that which we now assign to it. The -Viking sailing down the English Channel saw it as one of the outposts of -a new and fair land open to the conquest of fire and sword, and in his -primitive fashion of asserting the mastery, destroyed the city on the -cliff. Later on, these ravages were made good under the rule of Rolf, -the “Ganger,” by this time master of Neustria; the city was restored and -became the head of a countship, which dignity it retained until late in -the fifteenth century, when Louis XI. cast envious eyes upon it, and by -a stroke of craft approaching near to genius, united it to the crown of -France, declaring the Blessed Virgin to be patroness of the town and -himself her humble vassal, holding it under her suzerainty, which no man -in France dared to deny. Henry VIII. laid siege to Boulogne in 1544 and -gained it for England; but the day of English prestige in France had -gone by, and her right of possession was of very<a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a> short duration, for in -the next reign Boulogne was given back to France, and Calais alone -remained to England of the spoils of the Hundred Years’ War.</p> - -<p>Above the present town rises the monument known as the “Colonne de la -Grande Armée,” a memorial of the first Napoleon’s encampment at Boulogne -in 1804, and of his magnificent preparations for the invasion of -England. In the Château, which dates from the thirteenth century and is -now used as barracks, Napoleon III. was confined after his abortive -descent upon the town in 1840. It was the second of these desperate -attempts to dethrone the “constitutional king” Louis Philippe and -reinstate the Imperial dynasty. The expedition to Strasburg four years -before had at least been attended by this much success, that the young -aspirant was enthusiastically welcomed by the military portion of the -population; but the descent upon Boulogne, planned at the time when the -body of the first Emperor was being brought from St. Helena to Paris, -was a failure from first to last. The little band of conspirators, about -fifty in number, with their tame eagle—a symbol of the Imperial -power—landed at the port, but found no adherents, and within a few -hours of their landing were under arrest. Napoleon himself underwent -trial before the Chamber of Peers, and after a short<a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a> imprisonment, as -we have seen, in the Château, was sent to the castle of Ham-sur-Somme.</p> - -<p>Three out of the four original gates of the ancient city still remain, -notably the Porte Gayole, the rooms in whose flanking towers were at one -time used as prisons. In the room above the gateway were formerly held -the meetings of the <i>Guyale</i>, a <i>réunion</i> of ancient associations of -merchants—what would now be called a chamber of commerce—and from this -the gate-house was called Porte Gayole.</p> - -<p>Of the cathedral at Boulogne it is difficult to speak with any -enthusiasm. It stands as a memorial of the Renaissance work of that -period which we should call early Victorian; but like so many modern -churches, it possesses an ancient crypt, part of which belongs to the -twelfth century, showing that the foundations at least are those of a -Gothic church, which was probably destroyed during the Revolution.</p> - -<p>On the journey to Amiens the train passes through Abbeville on the -Somme, a place some sixty years ago sacred to geologists, who, led by -the distinguished Boucher de Perthes, Prestwick and Evans, extracted -from the river bed and neighbouring peat and undisturbed gravels, not -only remains of beaver, bear, &c., but also innumerable <a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a>hand-fashioned -flints and stone hatchets, and made the valley of the Somme up to Amiens -and St. Acheul classic ground to the antiquary and an object of -pilgrimage to the student of pre-historic man.</p> - -<p>In the early days of the Frank kings this quiet little town upon the -Somme had acquired enough importance for fortification, and its city -walls were built by Hugh Capet. Later on, after Peter the Hermit had -lifted up his voice in Europe, and every man who called himself a true -warrior turned his face eastward to Palestine, Abbeville was destined to -play her part in the affairs of the great world outside her walls, and -to share in the fortunes of that company of men whose watchword was -“Jerusalem.” In the first two Crusades, when the crusading spirit was as -yet ardent and pure and had not degenerated into a desire for plunder -and rapine, the leaders met within the gates of Abbeville before setting -out to the Holy Land.</p> - -<p>One can well imagine the stir their presence made within the quiet -precincts of the little town, the excitement of the townfolk, the eager -crowding of the youth of the place around the standards of these great -chiefs, Godfrey de Bouillon, destined to become king of Jerusalem; dark, -passionate Robert of Normandy, son of the Conqueror;<a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a> Hugh of -Vermandois, brother to the King of France; Stephen of Blois; Raymond of -Toulouse; Robert of Flanders, he who was called the “Sword and Lance of -the Christians”; and, lastly, Tancred the chivalrous, the very -embodiment of the spirit of the crusaders—and a “very perfect, gentle -knight.”</p> - -<p>For nearly two hundred years the English ruled Abbeville. When, in 1272, -Eleanor of Castile was married to Prince Edward, afterwards Edward I., -the town was included in the estates which she brought to England as her -dowry; and being near the sea coast, and consequently within easy reach -of England, its new lords were able to retain their hold upon the city -even after the disastrous close of the Hundred Years’ War had given -almost every English conquest back to France. Towards the end of the -fifteenth century it fell into the hands of the Burgundian party, but -the French crown finally reclaimed it in 1477. Since that time it has -twice seen an international alliance concluded within its gates. In -1514, Anne of Brittany, the wife of Louis XII.—“Pater Patria”—died -without having an heir in the direct line, and her husband, unwilling -that the crown should go to François d’Angoulême, determined to take -another wife, and made advances to Henry VIII.<a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a> for the hand of his -beautiful sister, Mary Tudor; and after the negotiations were completed, -they were married at Abbeville. As far as Louis’s purpose went, however, -the marriage was a failure, as the King died a few months later, and the -Duc d’Angoulême, his son-in-law, ascended his throne as François I<sup>er</sup>. -To his reign belongs the second alliance in the history of Abbeville, -the pact signed between the King of France and Cardinal Wolsey, on -behalf of Henry VIII., against the common enemy, Charles V.—a figure so -commanding, so infinitely greater than his contemporaries, that beside -him the brilliancy of François, the gallantry of Henry, and the pomp and -magnificence of his favourite Wolsey, seemed entirely eclipsed, and the -three men appear almost as puppets, unstable and vacillating, now the -closest of friends, and now the bitterest of enemies.</p> - -<p>Abbeville still maintains many of the old picturesque landmarks which -made it a favourite sketching ground for Prout and for Ruskin. The -market-place is surrounded by a number of houses with high pitched -gables, coloured in various tints of white, grey and pale green. Some -beautiful drawings by Ruskin, executed in pencil and tint, which have -lately been exhibited to the public, bear testimony to its -picturesqueness, of which a great deal<a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a><a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a><a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a> still remains in the side -streets and along the river front.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_041_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_041_sml.jpg" width="385" height="550" -alt="ABBEVILLE" -title="ABBEVILLE" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ABBEVILLE</span> -</p> - -<p>The church of St. Wolfran is late Flamboyant, and is looked upon by -Ruskin as “a wonderful proof of the fearlessness of a living -architecture,” for, say what one will of it, that Flamboyant of France, -however morbid, was as vivid and intense in its imagination as ever any -phase of mortal mind. The nave consists of bays having a high clerestory -and a triforium screened by rich sixteenth century carving. The ribs of -the vaulting fall sheer down without imposts or break of any kind. The -low chancel and eastern termination of the church are unworthy of the -splendid carving of the western façade.</p> - -<p>The approach to Amiens offers no <i>coup d’œil</i> of clustering towers or -spires such as an English or Norman cathedral city usually gives us, and -the Cathedral itself is hidden as we pass into the heart of the town -along the Rue des Trois Cailloux, a street which is said to follow the -alignment of the old city walls. Ruskin advises the traveller, however -short his time may be, to devote it, not to the contemplation of arches -and piers and coloured glass, but to the woodwork of the chancel, which -he considers the most beautiful carpenter’s work of the Flamboyant -period. Note should be taken of two windows in the Chapel of the -Cardinal de la<a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a> Grange, built about 1375. These are very interesting as -foreshadowing in their detail that style of architecture—the -Flamboyant—which obtained in France in the fifteenth century and was -contemporaneous with the English Perpendicular.</p> - -<p>The two western towers look little more than heavily built buttresses, -and as towers are not very appropriate in design, being not square, but -oblong in plan. They rise little above the ridge line of the nave, whose -crossing with the transepts is marked by a beautiful <i>flèche</i>, which -Ruskin, however, describes as “merely the caprice of a village -carpenter.” As he further declares, the Cathedral of Amiens is “in -dignity inferior to Chartres, in sublimity to Beauvais, in decorative -splendour to Rheims, and in loveliness of figure sculpture to Bourges,” -yet it fully deserves the name given to it by Viollet-le-Duc—“The -Parthenon of Gothic architecture.”</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_045_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_045_sml.jpg" width="550" height="394" -alt="THE PLACE VOGEL, AMIENS" -title="THE PLACE VOGEL, AMIENS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE PLACE VOGEL, AMIENS</span> -</p> - -<p>The height of the nave and aisles is, according to Mr. Francis Bond in -his book “Gothic Architecture in England,” respectively nearly three -times their span, and the vastness of the fenestration is very striking, -particularly in the clerestory, through whose lower mouldings the -triforium is negotiated, thus dividing each bay into two storeys, -clerestory and pier arch, instead of into three, clerestory<a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a><a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a><a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a> triforium -and pier arch. This gives the effect after which the French architect -strove: one vast blaze of light and colour through the upper windows, -coming not only from the clerestory, but from the glazed triforium also; -the magnificent deep blue glass typifying the splendour of the heavens. -On the other hand, in a sunny clime, builders cared less for light, and -preferred the effect of a blind triforium which throws the choir below -into gloomy and mysterious shadow. Thus we see that upon the design of -the triforium depends to a very great extent the effect of the light and -shade of the interior of a great church.</p> - -<p>Once, being personally conducted by the dean over one of the cathedrals -of the west of England, the writer was suddenly called upon to give the -derivation of “triforium.” The word is applied to the ambulatory or -passage, screened by an arcade, which runs between the pier arches and -clerestory windows, and is considered to refer to the three openings, or -spaces, <i>trinæ fores</i>, into which the arcading was sometimes divided. It -probably has nothing to do with openings in multiples of three, nor with -a Latinised form of “thoroughfare,” as suggested in Parker’s Glossary, -although the main idea is that of a passage running round the inside of -a church, either as at Westminster, in the form of an ambulatory<a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a> -chamber, or of a gallery pierced through the main walls, from whence the -structure can be inspected without the trouble of using ladders or -erecting scaffolding. M. Enlart in his “Manuel d’Archéologie Française,” -derives the word from a French adjective “trifore,” or “trifoire,” -through the Latin “transforatus,” a passage pierced through the -thickness of the wall; and this idea of a passage-way is certainly -suggested by an old writer, Gervase, who, in his description of the new -Cathedral of Canterbury, rebuilt after the fire, alludes to the -increased number of passages round the church under the word “triforia.” -“Ibi triforium unum, hic duo in choro, et in alâ ecclesiæ tercium.”</p> - -<p>On the north side of the Cathedral flows the Somme, and there is perhaps -no better means of realising the great height and mass of the building -than by walking along the river banks, whence we see the old houses, -great and small, rise tier above tier under the quiet grey outline of -this “giant in repose.”</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_049_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_049_sml.jpg" width="550" height="386" -alt="EVENING ON THE SOMME AT AMIENS" -title="EVENING ON THE SOMME AT AMIENS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">EVENING ON THE SOMME AT AMIENS</span> -</p> - -<p>In an extract from his private diary Ruskin gives the following -description of this walk along the river, showing it in an aspect at -once squalid and picturesque: <a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a><a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a><a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a><a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a>“Amiens, May 11th.—I had a happy walk -here this afternoon, down among the branching currents of the Somme: it -divides into five or six, shallow, green, and not over-wholesome; -some quite narrow and foul, running beneath clusters of fearful houses, -reeling masses of rotten timber; and a few mere stumps of pollard willow -sticking out of the banks of soft mud, only retained in shape of bank by -being shored up with timbers; and boats like paper boats, nearly as thin -at least, for the costermongers to paddle about in among the weeds, the -water soaking through the lath bottoms, and floating the dead leaves -from the vegetable baskets with which they were loaded. Miserable little -back yards, opening to the water, with steep stone steps down to it, and -little platforms for the ducks; and separate duck staircases, composed -of a sloping board with cross bits of wood leading to the ducks’ doors; -and sometimes a flower-pot or two on them, or even a flower—one group, -of wall-flowers and geraniums, curiously vivid, being seen against the -darkness of a dyer’s backyard, who had been dyeing black, and all was -black in his yard but the flowers, and they fiery and pure; the water by -no means so, but still working its way steadily over the weeds, until it -narrowed into a current strong enough to turn two or three windmills, -one working against the side of an old Flamboyant Gothic church, whose -richly traceried buttresses sloped down into the filthy stream; all -exquisitely picturesque, and no less miserable. We delight in seeing -the figures in these boats, pushing them about the bits of blue water, -in Prout’s drawings; but as I looked to-day at the unhealthy face and -melancholy mien of the man in the boat pushing his load of peat along -the ditch, and of the people, men as well as women, who sat spinning -gloomily at the cottage doors, I could not help feeling how many persons -must pay for my picturesque subject and happy walk.”</p> - -<p>In his “Miscellaneous Studies” Walter Pater says: <a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a><a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a>“The builders of the -Church seem to have projected no very noticeable towers; though it is -conventional to regret their absence, especially with visitors from -England, where indeed cathedral and other towers are apt to be good and -really make their mark.... The great western towers are lost in the west -front, the grandest, perhaps the earliest, of its species—three -profound sculptured portals; a double gallery above, the upper gallery -carrying colossal images of twenty-two kings of the house of Judah, -ancestors of our Lady; then the great rose; above it the singers’ -gallery, half marking the gable of the nave, and uniting at their -topmost storeys the twin, but not exactly equal or similar towers, oddly -oblong in plan as if meant to carry pyramids or spires. In most cases, -those early Pointed churches are entangled, here and there, by the -construction of the old round-arched style, the heavy, Norman or other, -Romanesque chapel or aisle, side by side, though in strange contrast, -with the soaring new Gothic nave or transept. But the older manner of -the round arch, the <i>plein-cintre</i>, Amiens has nowhere or almost -nowhere, a trace. The Pointed style, fully pronounced, but in all the -purity of its first period, found here its completest expression.”</p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Three" id="Chapter_Three"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_3.png" -width="165" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Three" -title="Chapter Three" -/><br /><br /> -<small>LÂON, RHEIMS AND SOISSONS</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_w-q.png" -width="70" -height="61" -alt="“W" -title="“W" -/></span>E passed Lâon in the dark,” is a confession frequently made by -travellers. The Geneva express used to stop here for dinner, and during -the brief interval allowed for coffee and cigarettes many a traveller -has gazed up at the great buttressed hill, silhouetted against a -twilight sky, and wondered what manner of place it might be, -half-fortress, half-church, rising some three hundred and fifty feet out -of the plain with its crest of towers and houses.</p> - -<p>If Paris is the type of the island cities of Gaul, surely Lâon may be -called the type of the hill cities. <a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a>“Lâon is the very pride of that -class of town which out of Gaulish hill-forts grew into Roman and -mediæval cities. None stands so proudly on its height; none has kept its -ancient character so little changed to our own day. The town still keeps -itself within the walls which fence in the hill-top, and whatever there -is of suburb has grown up at the foot, apart from the ancient city.”</p> - -<p>Geologically, Lâon is a limestone island in the denuded plain of -Soissonais and Béarnais, and was a Celtic stronghold, as its name, a -contraction of <i>Laudunum</i>, shows, <i>dun</i> standing for a hill fortress. -The town resembles in plan a blunt crescent, one horn of which is -occupied by the cathedral and citadel. An electric railway connects the -upper with the lower town, and a street from the market-place leads -through the Parvis to the very beautiful west façade of the church. -Cathedral, strictly speaking, it is no longer, for at Lâon we have -another of those instances, always somewhat melancholy, of a deserted -bishopstool. Here it is almost more pathetic, when we remember that the -Bishop of Lâon was second in importance only to the Archbishop of Rheims -himself, and, going back to the days of William Longsword, we find Lâon -not only a bishopric, but a capital town—one of the great trio of -cities which ruled northern France and fought amongst themselves for the -chief mastery. There was the Duke of Paris in his capital; there was the -Duke of the Normans, an outsider who by force of arms had settled at -Rouen, and was a source of continual trembling to the Parisian duchy; -and there was the King of the Franks on the hill-top at Lâon, nominally -suzerain of both the others, but really in daily fear lest one or other, -or both, should swoop<a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a> down and storm his hill-fortress and add the -royal city of Lâon to lands which in those days went to any man who -could get possession of them.</p> - -<p>Tradition says that St. Béat, who lived towards the close of the third -century, gathered his faithful together in a small chapel hewn out of -the rock, over which was built later on the cathedral church of Notre -Dame. This church, according to M. Daboval, seems to have been still in -existence in the fifth century, and was even then of sufficient -importance to attract thither many scholars who wished to study the Holy -Scriptures. In the twelfth century the cathedral, Bishop’s palace, and -many other churches were burnt down, owing to communal troubles during -the bishopric of Gaudry. The present cathedral has one specially -distinctive feature: the east end, instead of being apsidal, follows the -English type of a square termination. There are other churches in the -neighbourhood built on a similar plan, which suggests the possibility of -English architects having been engaged in their construction. Lâon is, -however, in one important feature, a variant from the common arrangement -in English churches of the eastern wall. It has there a great circular -window only, instead of the immense wall of glass usually adopted in -this country. The bays of the aisles are four-storied, in pairs,<a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a> with -alternating piers, and of great beauty, the ribs of the vaulting -springing from clusters of light shafts. There is a large ambulatory -over the aisles, “which are built up in two stories, both of them -vaulted, and the upper vaulted aisle giving valuable abutment to the -clerestory wall.” This internal arrangement appears to have been in -favour with the architects of the early French Gothic style.</p> - -<p>The twenty-eight side chapels are enclosed by some very lovely screens -of a later date, which, being erected during the latter part of the -sixteenth century, and of Renaissance design, are considered by the -ultra-Gothic mind to clash with the rest of the cathedral. Nevertheless -they are very beautiful in proportion and appropriateness, reticent in -design, and admirable in execution.</p> - -<p>Viollet-le-Duc, in his review of the cathedral of Lâon, says that it has -a certain ring of democracy and is not of that religious aspect that -attaches to Chartres, Amiens, or Rheims. From the distance it has more -the appearance of a château than of a church: its nave is low when -compared with other Gothic naves, and its general outside appearance -shows evidence of something brutal and savage; and as far as its -colossal sculptures of animals, oxen and horses, which appear to guard -the upper parts of the towers, are concerned, they combine to give an -impression<a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a> more of terror than of a religious sentiment. One does not -feel, as one regards Notre Dame de Lâon, the stamp of an advanced -civilisation, as at Paris or at Amiens. Everything is rude and rough; it -is the monument of a people enterprising and energetic and full of great -virility. They are the same men as are seen building elsewhere in the -neighbourhood—a race of giants.</p> - -<p>As we approach Rheims from Paris, Lâon, or Soissons, there is very -little sign of the vineyards which one associates with the champagne -country. The “vine-clad” hills lie to the south in the Epernay district. -Here to the north of the city we see only well-watered, well-timbered -country, lush meadow-lands, and even market-gardens, reminding us more -of the upper reaches of the Thames valley than of a wine-growing -country.</p> - -<p>Rheims chiefly recommends itself to the English mind as the place where -the kings of France were crowned. It would seem also as though the fact -of being crowned at Rheims was a patent of royalty, so to speak, to the -kings themselves, since, as Freeman remarks, their rights were never -disputed after their anointing with the <i>sainte ampoule</i>. “Every king of -the French crowned at Rheims,” he says, <a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a><a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a><a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a>“has been at once a Frenchman by -birth and the undisputed heir of the founder of the dynasty. Hugh and -his son Robert, neither of them born to royalty, were crowned, the one -at Noyon, the other at Orléans. Henry the Fourth, the one king whose -right was disputed, was crowned at Chartres.”</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_059_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_059_sml.jpg" width="550" height="382" -alt="THE RAMPARTS, LÂON" -title="THE RAMPARTS, LÂON" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE RAMPARTS, LÂON</span> -</p> - -<p>Like Soissons, like Lâon, like Bourges even, Rheims has carried down to -modern times the remains of that prestige which must always attach to a -royal city, even though the royalty have long ago departed from it. It -moreover brings us once again to the story of Joan the Maid. It is the -scene of her mission’s fulfilment, of France’s triumph, of the beginning -of that monarchy which Louis XI. established in its complete form and -which the later Bourbons wrecked; and here, when the crown is safe on -her king’s head and Charles VII. has his own again, does Joan ask her -reward—permission to return to her flocks in the fields of Domrémy. And -but that this boon was too simple to grant, Joan’s story might have -ended with this, her greatest triumph, instead of in the market-place at -Rouen.</p> - -<p>After the relief of Orléans, Joan had captured Jargeau and Beaugency, -and defeated the English in a great fight at Patay, in which Talbot, the -English leader, was taken prisoner. Having cleared these last obstacles -from Charles’s path, she now set forth to tell him that all was ready -and to persuade him to make all speed to Rheims. Speed, however, was<a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a> -what the Dauphin either could not or would not make; and it is always -the most unsatisfactory part of the history of Joan the Maid that when -she had pressed on, scarcely resting by night or day, to win back his -kingdom for him, Charles seemed in no hurry to enter upon his honours, -but preferred dawdling with his favourites in Touraine; and it was with -the greatest difficulty that he was persuaded to ride to Rheims with -Joan. Selfish indulgence, foolish favouritism, petty jealousies—were -such things as these to stand in the path from which the Maid had swept -all other barriers? Joan, however, was resolute. In hopes of rousing him -she withdrew her army into the country, and this retreat had the desired -effect. Charles the Laggard allowed himself to be brought into Rheims, -and on July 17 Joan, banner in hand, stood by his side in the cathedral -while the Archbishop anointed him with the holy oil and crowned him -Charles VII. of France. Here, so far as Rheims is concerned, the story -of Joan is at an end.</p> - -<p>Two papal councils were held at Rheims, in the days when the Gallican -Church was rising to its highest power, though it had not yet gone so -far as to resent the yoke of the Papacy. Pope Leo IX. in 1049 entered -the city in full state to consecrate for Abbot Heremas his newly-built -monastery of<a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a> Saint Remi, and followed up the consecration by convoking -a vast synod composed of nearly every prelate in Europe, archbishops, -bishops, abbots, clergy, and laity from every quarter, who sat at Rheims -for six days; but their business seems to have been connected only with -the usual canonical laws. The later council, which took place in 1119 -and was presided over by Calixtus, appears to have occupied itself -chiefly with quarrels between Henry of England and Louis of France on -matters not even ecclesiastical. It further confirmed the Truce of God -which had been imposed at Caen sixty years before, and patched up a -peace between the two kings, after an interview between Henry and -Calixtus at Gisors, in which the English king took care to make his case -good before the Pope and to represent that all his incursions upon the -territory of Louis had been made solely from religious motives.</p> - -<p>Rheims boasts as one of its early bishops the saint Remigius, who in the -fifth century baptised Clovis here with great pomp, and who received -from heaven, as the legend has it, a flask of oil wherewith to anoint -his king before admitting him into the Church, with the stern -injunction, “Burn now that which thou hast worshipped and worship that -which thou hast burnt.” This flask was preserved<a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a> as one of the Church’s -most precious relics until the general devastation at the time of the -Revolution, when it was broken to pieces by a fanatic. At the time of -the consecration of Charles X. it reappeared in a mysterious fashion, -and is now shown in the Trésor of the cathedral with various other -relics.</p> - -<p>It is a sad fact to record that the most beautiful cathedral façade ever -built is now almost entirely hidden by scaffolding necessary for the -restoration of the building; and, judging by the appearance of the -timbering and the paucity of workmen, it is not yesterday that the work -was commenced, nor is it by to-morrow that it will be completed.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_065_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_065_sml.jpg" width="550" height="392" -alt="LÂON FROM THE BOULEVARDS" -title="LÂON FROM THE BOULEVARDS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">LÂON FROM THE BOULEVARDS</span> -</p> - -<p>In the early part of the thirteenth century Robert de Coucy was -entrusted with the rebuilding of the cathedral after the complete -destruction of the early church by fire. He built it on a simple plan of -a vast choir, no transepts, and a rather narrow nave. <a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a><a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a><a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a>“Cet édifice a -toute la force de la Cathédral de Chartres, sans en avoir la lourdeur; -il réunit enfin les veritables conditions de la beauté dans les arts, la -puissance et la grace; il est d’ailleurs construit en beaux materiaux, -savamment appareillés, et l’on retrouve dans toutes ses parties un soin -et une recherche fort rares à une epoque où l’on batissait avec une -grande rapidité et souvent avec des ressources -insuffisantes.”—Viollet-le-Duc. The beautiful portals, “deep and -cavernous,” record by their thousand sculptures, in a clear and -impressive manner, the creation of the world, the whole history of the -Old Testament, the life of our Saviour and the redemption of mankind, -and convey to all who pass by this great object-lesson of their faith. -The tympana of these porches are glazed instead of being filled in with -stone. This was done to guard against the possible breaking of the -doorway lintel, which, if large, might very well give way under the -weight of the superincumbent mass of stone.</p> - -<p>Mr. Bond, referring to the deeply recessed porches of the French -cathedrals—which, if we exclude the Galilees, find few analogues in the -English churches—considers them as lineal descendants of the ancient -narthex. <a name="page_052" id="page_052"></a>“As a rule we did not care to develop the western doorways. The -reason may be that our churches are all comparatively low; to give west -doorways, therefore, any considerable elevation would be at the expense -of the western windows. We needed western light badly in our English -naves, especially in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and preferred -to develop the western window at the expense of the western doorway, -reaching in the end such a façade as that of St. George’s, Windsor.”</p> - -<p>The bays of the nave consist of large clerestory windows filled with -glorious deep blue glass, a small triforium and stilted pier arches; a -very short chancel of only two bays and chevet hardly gives room for the -priests and choristers, the sacrarium is therefore lengthened westwards -and projects into the transepts.</p> - -<p>To the south of the Cathedral lies the interesting Abbey Church of St. -Remi, built in the eleventh century. Many of the French cathedral towns -are fortunate in the possession of either an abbey or collegiate church, -which existed some two or three centuries before the cathedral itself -was built. At Nevers is the church of St. Etienne, at Evreux St. Taurin, -at Tours St. Martin. At Angers and other places the old Romanesque -basilicas are still to be found. Rheims has for its parent church the -basilica of St. Remi. The western towers are Romanesque, and one of them -has been left more or less unrestored; the interior has all the -impressiveness of the basilica design; the pier arcades and triforium of -the nave elevation occupy the whole space up to the springing of the -barrel vault, and pilasters are carried down to the pier capitals, where -they rest on quaint corbels of very early design. Like churches -constructed in the early days, St. Remi has double aisles on either side -of the nave; the choir is brought westwards to overlap<a name="page_053" id="page_053"></a> the nave arches, -an arrangement often found in short chancelled churches; the east end is -periapsidal in plan, and the windows are filled with fine blue glass. -Ferguson does not give France the credit of having many fine Romanesque -churches sufficient to satisfy the splendid tastes of the twelfth and -thirteenth centuries, but he makes an exception in the case of St. Remi, -and declares it to be “a vast and noble basilica of the early part of -the eleventh century, presenting considerable points of similarity to -those of Burgundy.”</p> - -<p>Rheims has enjoyed for a long time popularity amongst travellers. As far -back as a hundred and twenty years ago a writer, describing the town and -its hotel accommodation, says: <a name="page_054" id="page_054"></a>“The streets are almost all broad, strait -and well built, equal in that respect to any I have seen; and the inn, -the Hôtel de Moulinet, is so large and well served as not to check the -emotions raised by agreeable objects, by giving an impulse to contrary -vibrations in the bosom of the traveller, which at inns in France is too -often the case.... We have about half a dozen real English dishes that -exceed anything in my opinion to be met with in France; by English -dishes I mean a turbot and lobster sauce, ham and chicken, a haunch of -venison, turkey and oysters, and after these there is an end of an -English table. It is an idle prejudice to class roast beef among them, -for there is not better beef in the world than at Paris.... The French -are cleaner in their persons, and the English in their houses.”</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>To look at Soissons to-day, with its pleasant walks and modern houses, -few people would guess it to have played an important part in the -history of north-eastern France. Yet that pleasant, modern appearance is -itself a proof of what the town endured in earlier days. So fierce was -the struggle it had for existence, that the old Soissons has almost worn -itself out, and, seen from the outside at least, a new and prosperous -town would seem to have taken its place. It might well be called the -city of sieges, for few towns have suffered more in this respect. From -Roman days down to the Franco-Prussian war the place has seemed good and -desirable from soldiers and conquerors, and has had to pay penalty for -its splendid position on the Aisne. Both Cæsar and Napoleon recognised -its importance as a military station, though a stretch of eighteen -hundred years divided the Soissons of one general to the Soissons of the -other. Like Lâon, it was for some time a royal seat; and it was here -that Clovis the Frank defeated Syagrius, “Romanorum Rex,” in 486, and -turned a Roman into a Frankish king<a name="page_056" id="page_056"></a><a name="page_057" id="page_057"></a><a name="page_055" id="page_055"></a>dom, in which Soissons was for -some time the capital. It was in the Abbey of St. Médard, which, except -for some subterranean buildings, is now destroyed, that Louis le -Débonnair was twice imprisoned by his unnatural children; and on the -walls of one of these dungeons have been found some verses, apparently a -description of the unfortunate prisoner, but dating only from the -fifteenth century.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_071_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_071_sml.jpg" width="365" height="550" -alt="RHEIMS" -title="RHEIMS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">RHEIMS</span> -</p> - -<p>During the “Hundred Days” Soissons was twice taken and twice retaken in -the course of a month. Blücher laid siege to the town in 1814, and but -for a sudden surrender on the part of the governor, which gave it into -his hands for the time, it would probably have been annihilated by -Napoleon, who, as matters turned out, had not time to come up with the -Prussian Army. In 1870 another Prussian force entered the town under the -Duke of Mecklenburg, after a siege which closes the roll of Soissons’ -struggles.</p> - -<p>On both occasions of our visiting Soissons, we came away with the -feeling that the interior of the Cathedral of Notre Dame was even more -impressive than that of Rheims. It is, indeed, a worthy rival to its -neighbouring sister church; the beautiful proportions of the nave, the -simplicity and purity of the carved capitals, the splendid glass, render -it one of the most beautiful cathedrals of France. There is a<a name="page_058" id="page_058"></a> lovely -little chapel in the salle capitulaire at the west end, approached by a -cloister, early Gothic in design, with its vaulting supported by two -graceful columns, which reminds one of some of the chapter houses of our -English cathedrals.</p> - -<p>In the Place du Cloitre is a doorway into the Cathedral, with a graceful -pediment enclosing a high-springing Gothic tympanum, which is glazed. -The mouldings of the arch have alternating crocketted courses, and the -capitals are carved to represent vine leaves and grapes. It is not easy -to understand why so beautiful a porch should occupy so obscure a -position, unless it were in the early days some special entrance for the -bishops or for the canons.</p> - -<p>On the south side there is a Transition, semicircular chapel or apse, -with a roof lower than that of the rest of the Cathedral. A low -clerestory, with three lights, and a small triforium, whose base rakes -with the main triforium of the church, form the upper members of the -elevation. Below there is a graceful three-arched ambulatory, large and -open, spreading backwards over a vaulted chapel. The main arches, simple -and delicate in design, complete the whole bay.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_075_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_075_sml.jpg" width="550" height="366" -alt="SOISSONS" -title="SOISSONS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">SOISSONS</span> -</p> - -<p>Soissons was laid out on a plan which recalls the plan of Noyon. Its -south transept, as at Noyon,<a name="page_060" id="page_060"></a><a name="page_061" id="page_061"></a><a name="page_059" id="page_059"></a> dating from the end of the twelfth -century, is rounded and flanked by a circular chapel. Although it is -doubtful whether the Cathedral of Soissons was built in the latter part -of the twelfth century, or only commenced at that time, it is certain -that the nave and choir have the distinct appearance of -thirteenth-century design. During this period, however, a kind of -uncertainty existed in the planning of the religious edifices. These -were constructed on a vast scale, and emancipated themselves from the -restricted Romanesque design in obedience to the religious movement -which declared itself during the reigns of Louis le Jeune and Philippe -Auguste, but the <i>cathedral</i> type had not yet been created. The -requirements of the nascent ceremonial were not yet fulfilled.</p> - -<p>The once magnificent and now ruined Abbey of St. Jean des Vignes is -situated on the hill facing the entrance to the town from the station. -The west end only remains, surmounted by two towers with spires. “These -are a great ornament to the town, and were spared at the entreaty of the -citizens when the ruthless democrats destroyed the rest. The towers and -the portal are probably of the thirteenth century, the spires more -modern.” They were much damaged in the Franco-Prussian war, when the -town was bombarded.<a name="page_062" id="page_062"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Four" id="Chapter_Four"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_4.png" -width="154" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Four" -title="Chapter Four" -/><br /><br /> -<small>ROUEN</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_r.png" -width="60" -height="62" -alt="R" -title="R" -/></span>OUEN is a town with two faces, ancient and modern, and the face which -it apparently considers the most becoming is the modern one. The -ancient, historic face, which the town wore when Joan of Arc rode -through, is hidden away as though it were out of fashion, and it is to -be found, not in the broad streets, but in lanes, courts and alleys, -where the way grows narrow and the houses meet overhead. Rouen, the -<i>chef-lieu</i> of a department and fourth on the list of French ports, -finds more important business on hand than dreaming itself back into the -past, and, sacrificing the old life to the new, or, rather, building up -a new life round the old, has made of itself a busy, thriving commercial -town on the banks of that river up which the beak-headed ships of Rolf -the Ganger sailed a thousand years ago to destroy and to conquer. But -the town’s history is only put aside, not forgotten; indeed, there is -too much of it to forget. The records<a name="page_063" id="page_063"></a> of Rouen go back before the Roman -era in Gaul; the Romans found it as Ratuma or Ratumacos, and then, -Romanising the name, as they did everything else, made it into -Rotomagus. Even in these early days it was a capital city, the -headquarters of the Veliocassian tribe, though not of primary -importance. Later, by the end of the third century <small>A. D.</small>, we find it the -chief city of the province Lugdunensis Secunda, and presently an -archiepiscopal see, with an archbishop (now of course a saint) to guide -it in matters spiritual.</p> - -<p>Saint Mellon and his successors made a goodly record for about five -centuries. They were a thoroughgoing race, these early bishops of Rouen, -with the zeal of the Christian Fathers fresh upon them, and their very -names have a strong, vigorous sound: Avitian, Victrix, Godard, -Prétextat, Romain, Ouen, of whom the memory yet remains to Rouen in the -names of church, street and tower. After this long line of bishops came -a bad time for Rouen. These were the days when the lands to the -south-west seemed good and pleasant to the Vikings, the fierce Northmen -who in after days were to give their names to Normandy. England had -already been over-run with them; first by Jutes and Saxons, then by the -fiercer Danes, who in their turn pushed out the Saxons. Only a few miles -south of England was<a name="page_064" id="page_064"></a> another land just as fair, with a river easily -navigable even to the great Northern ships, and thriving towns, rich and -full of booty for Northern plunderers. Rouen, peaceful and prosperous, -was yet dangerously near the sea, and the year 841 saw the dreaded prow -of Oger the Dane coming slowly up the Seine, scattering to right and -left all lesser craft, while the terrible war song, which England -already knew and feared, rose and fell upon the wind. This was only the -beginning. Long fiery years followed, years of ravages, bloodshed and -burning, when human laws were in abeyance and the only rule was that of -might. Thirty-five years after Oger’s invasion came the famous Rolf the -Ganger, who laid waste the land anew, until, in 912, Charles the Simple -was forced to treat with him at Saint Clair-sur-Epte and to cede to him -the duchy of Neustria or Normandy. Rolf then embraced Christianity, and, -with the land in his possession, seemed determined to show the despised -Franks how a Northman could govern. In point of fact the dukedom, as -handed over by Charles, was practically represented by Rouen alone; that -is, Rouen apart from the Bessin and the Côtentin, and all the adjacent -lands which we now include under the name of Normandy. Further, it did -not really belong to Charles. Neustria was part of the great duchy of -Paris, and the cession of it to Rolf cut off<a name="page_065" id="page_065"></a> Paris from all access to -the sea. But that Duke Robert had the sense to hold his tongue, probably -from fear of losing Paris as well, there might have been serious -results. As it was, Northern France fell into three divisions—the royal -city of Lâon, the duchy of Paris, and the settlement of Rolf at Rouen. -In these three cities centres most of the subsequent history of -Normandy.</p> - -<p>As for what Rolf actually did for Rouen, that remains to be seen rather -from the after state of affairs. “The founder of the Rouen colony,” -Freeman says, “is a great man who must be content to be judged in the -main by the results of his actions.” Rolf is not in the least a vague or -shadowy personality, but it is noticeable how he has grown to us out of -a great tangle of myths and very little fact. All we have to go upon is -the not very authentic Roman de Rou, a few Norse legends, and sundry -brief allusions by later French writers, who class him, together with -all the Rouennais, under the contemptuous term Pirate. It was a -well-ordered, strong, self-dependent colony that he handed down to the -long line of his successors. These carried on bravely the traditions of -their founder and brought up a hardy race of fighters, although Rouen -itself was never thoroughly Teutonic, never at least since the very -early days of Rolf’s colony. The religion, the language,<a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a> and many of -the customs of the French at Lâon were grafted on to the Northmen of -Rouen by their leader, and thus the town stood as much apart from the -rest of Neustria as from the Franks themselves. After the death of Rolf -and of his successor, William Longsword, Louis from beyond Sea, of the -race of Charlemagne, ruled at Lâon, and cast envious eyes on Normandy, -even occupying Rouen for some time during the minority of Richard the -Fearless. But although Rouen was ultimately to become a town of France, -the time was not yet, and for the present her destiny was averted by an -outsider—Harold, King of Denmark, curiously surnamed Blue-tooth. He -determined to resist the encroachments of Louis, and finally made him -prisoner in the city where he had hoped to establish another capital.</p> - -<p>The Norman dukes only deteriorated as rulers when they joined to their -domain the crown of England, won by the hardiest and strongest of them -all. We remember the passionate, self-willed Robert, son of the -Conqueror, and John, called Lackland, that disgrace to the English -throne, the worst and likewise the last Norman duke, for the French -king, Philippe Auguste, confiscated Normandy, together with other -English possessions, and joined it to the crown of France, taking -possession of Rouen after a siege in 1204. From this point<a name="page_067" id="page_067"></a> the history -of Rouen becomes the history of a French and not of a Norman town. As a -reward for its submission, Philippe Auguste presented the town with a -castle, of which one tower (the Tour Jeanne d’Arc) alone remains -standing. Two centuries later, Rouen was in danger from the English. -Henry V., during his brilliant campaign in northern France, was not -likely to leave to itself such an important place. In 1419 he set up his -cannon outside the walls, and proceeded to blockade the town, which -opened its gates to him after a six months’ siege. Here he also built a -castle, which, in the hopefulness born of youth and victory, he intended -to use as a royal residence when all France should be at rest under his -firm rule. But before the conquest was completed, before he had time to -think about any residence other than his camp, came that last fatal -sickness at Vincennes, and the castle, which seemed, like all his -victories, so sure and so lasting, has been swept off the face of the -earth. The years after Henry’s death, however, were significant ones for -Rouen, now in English hands, and in 1431 we come to the great point in -its history, the trial and burning of Joan of Arc in the market-place.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_085_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_085_sml.jpg" width="550" height="374" -alt="ROUEN FROM THE RIVER" -title="ROUEN FROM THE RIVER" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ROUEN FROM THE RIVER</span> -</p> - -<p>Captured near Compiègne, Joan had been sent to Rouen by the bishop of -Beauvais. This was in March. The girl was examined fifteen or sixteen<a name="page_068" id="page_068"></a> -times, a wearying repetition of question and answer, often going round -and round in a circle and never advancing any further. Joan’s replies -were simple but firm. She persisted in her divine mission, and when -asked whether she was in a state of grace or of sin replied, “If I am -not in a state of grace, I hope God will make me so. How can I be in -much sin while the saints will visit me?” In May matters were delayed by -her illness, which was so serious that it seemed for a time as though -her enemies were to be defeated by death; but on her recovery learned -doctors were sent to her in prison to persuade her of her wrong attitude -of mind. Later came a warning from Cauchon, the bishop of Beauvais, to -the effect that he was about to have her brought forth and made the -object of a public sermon, after which, if she would recant, her safety -would be assured. Worn out with her trials, the poor girl declared her -submission and signed a recantation, for she saw that the end could not -but come soon. A penance of perpetual imprisonment was then imposed upon -her, and she submitted passively to the injunctions laid upon her; but -at her final abjuration she seemed to be overcome by a sudden access of -penitence towards the saints, and resumed her old attitude of -determination, declaring that all she had said in submission was said in -fear<a name="page_070" id="page_070"></a><a name="page_071" id="page_071"></a><a name="page_069" id="page_069"></a> of being burned at the stake, of which she had a very natural -horror. After this her fate was sealed. Cauchon handed her over to the -secular arm, and a few hours later she was led to the stake in the old -market-place. It is needless to dwell upon this last scene, because it -is one of the stock dramatic occurrences in our history books, which -nearly always represent Joan of Arc as suffering trial, torment and -death, for the sake of her country with almost unnatural fortitude; but, -on the other hand, the more one reads about her, the more clear it -becomes that the heroism of the Maid of Orléans, though none the less -heroic, was a heroism of the simplest order, born of a pure heart, a -steady, straightforward faith in her mission, and only wavering at the -last from a very human and girlish horror of so infamous and dreadful a -death. And as for her judges, needlessly cruel though they were, yet, as -one writer points out, they were almost bound to condemn their prisoner. -To try her for sorcery and to burn her as a witch seems of course to our -modern eyes not merely horrible, but absurd. Cauchon and his followers, -however, did not live in an enlightened age; in their day the “Black -Art” was a thing to be dreaded above all others, and death seemed a -light thing in comparison with the putting down the power of the Evil -One. Others besides Joan of Arc, for generations before<a name="page_072" id="page_072"></a> and generations -after, had died at the stake for reputed practice of magic; and in the -case of the Maid, “to acquit her would have been to accept her celestial -mission and place her, with some modern French historians, by the side, -nay, in the place, of the Messiah.” The trial and burning of Joan cannot -be looked upon by the light of a modern world; they are of their time, -and that time was, above all things, a superstitious one. And only after -her death did France realise what the Domrémy peasant girl had done for -her country. The French monarchy, as Louis XI. established it, is -perhaps the best monument to her memory. After, and as some say because -of, Joan’s death English prestige in Rouen began steadily to decline. -Two years afterwards, in 1433, came the death of John, Duke of Bedford, -brother of Henry V., perhaps the only man left with anything of Henry’s -strength and singleness of purpose. Rouen held out against two attempts -at recapture on the part of Charles VII., but in 1449 Somerset was -forced to capitulate to a strong expedition, and the English left the -town for ever.</p> - -<p>By the middle of the next century we find Rouen in the thick of -religious troubles. In 1562 it was for six months in Huguenot hands, six -months of warfare, oppression and persecution of all Romanists within -the walls, with worse to follow;<a name="page_073" id="page_073"></a> for when the Royalists recaptured the -town they repaid the Huguenots in their own coin, and revenged the -Catholic massacres with a terrible revenge. After this the Army of the -League held Rouen until, in 1596, Henry IV. of France effected an -entrance into the town.</p> - -<p>Nowadays the first view of Rouen is a smoky, dreary little station, -surrounded by <i>cochers</i> and porters in linen blouses; but Arthur Young, -an agriculturist of the eighteenth century, visited the old city during -his travels, before the days of the “iron way,” and he was more -fortunate in what he saw from his <i>diligence</i>: “The first view of Rouen -is sudden and striking; but the road doubling, in order to turn more -gently down the hill, presents from an elbow the finest view of a town I -have ever seen; the whole city, with all its churches and convents, and -its cathedral proudly rising in the midst, fills the vale. The river -presents one reach crossed by the bridge, and then, dividing into two -fine channels, forms a large island covered with wood; the rest of the -vale, full of verdure and cultivation, of gardens and habitations, -finish the scene, in perfect unison with the great city that forms the -capital feature.” To get this view to-day one must climb the long, dusty -hill to the convent of Bon Secours, or rather, half-way only, since the -city, river and meadows,<a name="page_074" id="page_074"></a> show their beauties just as well from a lower -point, and the modern convent and church upon the hilltop are not worth -a further climb.</p> - -<p>From the main street of the town the Cathedral is reached by the Rue de -la Grosse Horloge, which leads underneath the archway of the belfry. The -Tour St. Romain rises at the end of the street like a tall white guide, -and here, suddenly, we find ourselves face to face with the west façade -of Notre Dame. The remark made by an American traveller, that he found -Rome very much out of repair, is appropriate to many of the French -cathedrals. Scheduled as historic monuments, they receive annually a -dole from the Government towards maintenance and restoration, but so -miserable is this contribution, and so inadequate to the possibility of -early completion of the work, that a generation may pass away before the -scaffolding is finally removed. The west portal of Rouen is half covered -by a forest of timbering. Rheims suffers even more, and the same may be -said for Notre Dame at Evreux, St. Urbain at Troyes, and many other -cathedrals. Such glimpses, however, as we get of the west front of Rouen -show us its glory. Ruskin writing of it says: <a name="page_075" id="page_075"></a>“It is the most exquisite -piece of pure Flamboyant work existing. There is not one cusp, one -finial, that is useless, not a stroke of the chisel is in vain; the -grace and luxuriance of it all are visible—sensible, rather, even to -the uninquiring eye; and all its minuteness does not diminish the -majesty, while it increases the mystery of the noble and unbroken -vault.”</p> - -<p>Of the origin of this Flamboyant style a distinguished French writer, M. -Enlart, in a paper lately read before the Archæological Institute of -Great Britain, has asserted that it is to be found not in France, but in -England; and specialising the west front of Rouen, he further states -that, in the arrangement of its large bay enclosing the rose window and -flanked by tiers of statues, it recalls absolutely the façades, earlier -in date, of the cathedrals of Wells, Salisbury and Lichfield.</p> - -<p>With one or two exceptions, viz., St. Urbain at Troyes and a chapel in -Amiens Cathedral, the Flamboyant style did not appear in France until -the last quarter of the fourteenth century, and when it had once taken -root, it maintained its integrity until the Renaissance, having the same -characteristics from one end of the country to the other. It was not the -evolution of any previous French style, but it derived its origin, as -above stated, from a style which existed in England a century before. -Roughly speaking, the features which distinguish the Flamboyant are, -first, the ogee arch which is typical of the style, then special systems -of vaulting, and flowing tracery of<a name="page_076" id="page_076"></a> windows, forms of arches, “anse de -panier,” &c., arch mouldings dying into piers without impost or capital, -and generally a love of vegetal and undulating decoration. This -“decorative caprice” reigned in France in the fifteenth century at a -time when the Perpendicular style became universal in England and had -completely driven out the ogee arch.</p> - -<p>The occupation of the greater part of France by the English in the -Hundred Years’ War would naturally result in an English influence being -noticeable in its buildings, the contact of nations producing an -exchange of art as of commerce. The Flamboyant may therefore be said to -be the by-product of the Hundred Years’ War.</p> - -<p>There is documentary evidence that both at Rouen and at Evreux the -foreign occupation did not interfere with the work going on at the -cathedrals; indeed, at Rouen, two canons of York were received with the -greatest courtesy by the chapter, and contributions were made by the -English towards the completion of the Cathedral. The domination of the -English was no hindrance to the progress of art in France, and as soon -as the latter had freed itself and realised its national unity, its -architects applied themselves heart and soul to the development of this -style which was <a name="page_077" id="page_077"></a>“borrowed from the enemy.”</p> - -<p>A long list can be made of buildings where the ogee arch and other -typical features obtained in England, from the end of the thirteenth to -the latter part of the fourteenth century, during which time no -parallels existed in France. One of the most ancient examples is Queen -Eleanor’s Cross at Northampton (1291-1294), where Flamboyant features -show themselves.</p> - -<p>The tomb of William de la Merche at Wells (1302), Aymer de Valence at -Westminster (1323), and many other early fourteenth-century examples, -furnished by almost every cathedral, testify to the prevalence of the -passion for the ogee motive of decoration. These are given in detail by -M. Enlart as irrefragable proofs of the English origin of the Flamboyant -style.</p> - -<p>The interior of the Cathedral of Rouen is considered by Mr. Bond to be -curiously Romanesque in plan. Its nave bays are four-storied, an upper -and lower pier arch with small triforium and clerestory. The upper pier -arch might also be regarded as a triforium, for a passage-way runs along -the sill of the arch and is continued behind the main piers on an -elegant group of shafted corbels. These were originally intended to -support a vault of a lower aisle. The east end is more dignified and has -simpler factors, clerestory, triforium and pier arch. The<a name="page_078" id="page_078"></a> glass is -magnificent, dating from the thirteenth century.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_095_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_095_sml.jpg" width="328" height="550" -alt="RUE DE L’HORLOGE, ROUEN" -title="RUE DE L’HORLOGE, ROUEN" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">RUE DE L’HORLOGE, ROUEN</span> -</p> - -<p>South of the Cathedral a narrow street leads eventually to the river by -way of the <i>halles</i>, the Place Haute-Vieille-Tour and its sister of the -Basse-Vieille-Tour. The first square is a large open place, fenced round -with solid stone buildings, and having on its south side the Chapelle de -la Fierte Saint-Romain. With this monument, on which a flight of steps -leads up to a Renaissance chapel of six stages, is connected a curious -<i>privilège</i> and legend, both of which have of course been recorded -before, but which are interesting enough to bear repetition. The charter -for this privilege was accorded to the chapter of Rouen Cathedral by -King Dagobert—he who founded the Abbey of Saint Denis. Each year, on -Ascension Day, the archbishop was empowered to release a man condemned -to death; and therefore every Ascension Day the good folk of Rouen -flocked into the streets to watch the procession of the Fierte -Saint-Romain. First came the solemn visit of the arm of the Church to -the arm of the Law, with the annual formal proclamation of the -privilege. Then every prison in the city must be searched, and every -prisoner put on oath and examined as to the cause of his imprisonment. -Finally the election of the<a name="page_080" id="page_080"></a><a name="page_081" id="page_081"></a><a name="page_079" id="page_079"></a> favoured prisoner was put to the vote by -the chapter, his name sent to the Palais de Justice, and the paper duly -signed and sealed, after which the “messe du prisonnier” was celebrated -in the Salle des Pas-Perdus; and finally, the prisoner himself was -called before his lords, secular and spiritual, and formally examined; -he then confessed to the chaplain of Saint-Romain, his fetters were -removed, and he followed the archbishop to the Place Haute-Vieille-Tour, -where, in the Chapelle de la Fierte, a solemn service made him once more -a free man. A solemn and magnificent procession then bore him, crowned -with flowers, to the great thanksgiving Mass, after which he was free to -go whither he would. No less curious is the legend connected with the -ceremony. It is said that while Romain was bishop of Rouen a terrible -dragon laid waste all the land and devoured the inhabitants.</p> - -<p>No one dared to approach this monster, who was known as the Gargoyle, -until Saint Romain, armed only with his sanctity, set out to subdue it, -accompanied by a condemned criminal—the prototype of those who were -released on Holy Thursday—when the Gargoyle at once submitted and, with -the episcopal stole round its neck, was led by the prisoner to the -water’s edge. The sequel does not reflect much credit upon the -bishop—at least, it seems rather of<a name="page_082" id="page_082"></a> the nature of meanness to conjure -the beast into good nature and then to push it, all unawares, into the -river to drown. At the head of the Portail de la Calende, the north -porch of the Cathedral, stands the figure of Saint Romain, and under his -feet, with the stole round its neck, is the Gargoyle, craning its head -round to look into the face of the bishop with the expression of a very -hideous but very faithful dog—a most disarming expression if it be -meant to represent that worn by the Gargoyle before it was sent to its -death! In memory of this occurrence, the standard of the dragon was -borne in the processions at the <i>privilège</i>—banners similar to those of -the dragons at Bayeux and Salisbury. The legend, however, appears to be -of later date than the festival, which is mentioned certainly as early -as the twelfth century, and continued to delight the Rouennais as late -as 1790.</p> - -<p>The Abbey Church of St. Ouen is placed at the head of the collegiate -churches of France so far as its beauty and perfection of architecture -is concerned. In its proportion of nave, transepts and choir it is -considered to outshine Cologne, its great rival and contemporary. The -vast area of clerestory and glazed triforium recalls the interior -arrangement of Amiens. The triforium passage is worked between the lower -mullions of the windows, which are duplicated;<a name="page_083" id="page_083"></a> but, as is pointed out -by Mr. Bond, care was taken that the inner and the outer tracery of the -windows should be different in pattern. Freeman says: “St. Ouen goes -further to unite the two forms of excellence”—external outline and -internal height—“than any other church, French or English,” and states -that “St. Ouen is the loftiest church in the world that has a real -central tower.”</p> - -<p>This central lantern is, according to Ferguson, a very noble feature and -appropriate to its position; unhappily it does not enjoy the admiration -of all writers: Ruskin condemns the false buttresses of the tower, which -he describes as merely a hollow crown, and declares that it needs no -more buttressing than does a basket.</p> - -<p>The third church of Rouen is that of St. Maclou. Its most noticeable -feature is the west end, which terminates in a very beautiful porch of -pentagonal form, and might be taken as another example of the rich -Flamboyant ornament seen in the western façade of the Cathedral. The -church itself is a complete specimen of its period, and dates from the -latter half of the fifteenth century.</p> - -<p>On the north side of the church, in the Rue Martainville, is the Aître -de St. Maclou, an old parish cemetery of the fifteenth century. There is -a small quadrangle, an old disused stone well with an iron<a name="page_084" id="page_084"></a> crucifix in -the centre, and round all runs a cloister with two low stories, timbered -in black and white, with the famous “Danse Macabre” carved on the lower -beams. It is now used as a school for the poor children of Rouen, and on -working days is full of life—the life of a growing generation going on -side by side with the relics of a dead and half-forgotten past, for the -quaint seriousness of an old fifteenth-century builder has traced upon -the lintel a constant reminder of death and the grave—skulls, bones, -spades, and here and there a grim skeleton Death bearing away a human -figure in his arms. Many of the most beautiful figures are headless, not -from the ravages of a symbolic Death, but from those of a very real and -equally unsparing hand—the hand of the Revolution.</p> - -<p>During the Franco-Prussian War Rouen had unhappily to record its own -chapter of reverses, when the French determined to dislodge Manteuffel. -Faidherbe’s army, together with the army of the Havre and General Roy’s -army of the South, had planned out an admirable scheme, which, however, -was lacking in one essential, actual execution. Manteuffel was to be -routed and driven out of Rouen. The Prussians were equally confident of -success, and it is said that Manteuffel ordered his train to take him to -Amiens to be ready next day at twelve o’clock,<a name="page_086" id="page_086"></a><a name="page_087" id="page_087"></a><a name="page_085" id="page_085"></a> by which time he felt -sure that he would have disposed of the enemy.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_101_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_101_sml.jpg" width="365" height="550" -alt="RUE ST. ROMAIN, ROUEN" -title="RUE ST. ROMAIN, ROUEN" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">RUE ST. ROMAIN, ROUEN</span> -</p> - -<p><a name="page_088" id="page_088"></a>“The battle began before daylight, the pursuit lasted until after dark -and was resumed on the following morning; but the victory was virtually -gained when the first blow was struck, or, rather, the first shot fired. -Here and there, on the road along which they were driven, or on the -wooded heights by which the road is in many places commanded, they made -a desperate resistance, but it was throughout a question, in regard to -the French, of the rate of retreat, never a question of retreat and -advance.”</p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Five" id="Chapter_Five"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_5.png" -width="156" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Five" -title="Chapter Five" -/><br /><br /> -<small>EVREUX AND LISIEUX</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_w.png" -width="60" -height="58" -alt="W" -title="W" -/></span>E left Rouen by a “quick” train, that is, one which occupied itself in -stopping at every wayside station that caught its fancy. However, this -mattered little, as the road to Evreux runs through the most enchanting -country, and we had plenty of time to admire it. Wonderful woods stretch -over the slope of the hills and widen out into valleys scattered with -old timbered farm-houses, and here and there a château, seen amongst the -trees of its <i>propriété</i>; little poplar-shaded rivers run through the -fields, decked in holiday garlands of loosestrife and meadowsweet and -unmolested by any eager <i>pêcheur</i>, whether boy with string and bent pin, -or more “compleat angler” with rod and line. The Seine, divested of -barge and steam tug, greets one by glimpses now and then; and after -leaving the tunnel before Elbœuf, it bursts suddenly into view—a -wide sweep of river, with the busy little town by its side. Then the -valley closes in all at once,<a name="page_089" id="page_089"></a> and we run under the shadow of chalk -cliffs with steep scarped faces and deep caverns, into whose blackness -we may almost peer from the carriage window. Lastly comes a run up on to -high ground again; and there below, shut in by hills, with three towers -rising from its low roofs, is Evreux. The railway takes a great curve -from one side of the town to the other before running into the station, -so that the place passes in review before one; and it is an impressive -review, seen as we first saw it, in the light of a summer sundown, a -purple haze, “mystic, wonderful,” hanging like a veil over the little -town.</p> - -<p>Besides the Cathedral and the bishop’s palace, Evreux possesses little -that strikes one as being either very old or very new; a cheerful, clean -mediocrity prevails all through the town, which, nevertheless, dates -back to very early times. Remains of a Roman settlement have been -discovered some little distance away, at Vieil Evreux, then known as -Mediolanum Aulercolum, and afterwards as Eburovices, whence is derived -the modern name of Evreux. A bishopric was founded at Evreux by St. -Taurin, during the great movement towards Christianity in the fourth -century; later, Clovis destroyed the Roman encampment and founded a town -of his own, which in its turn was burnt and pillaged by the Northmen in -the ninth century. After this it probably shared the bounty<a name="page_090" id="page_090"></a> of its -former scourge, Duke Rolf, and became part of the Norman duchy and a -Naboth’s vineyard to Count Thibaut of Chartres, who did actually take -possession of it in 962, though Richard the Fearless must have reclaimed -the town, as he presented the “Comté d’Evreux,” which was to pass later -into the family of Montfort l’Amaury, to one of his younger sons. Henry -I. set fire to Evreux for some mysterious reason, but with the full -consent of the bishop, who must have had peculiar ideas on the subject -of his pastoral duties; and in the reign of Cœur-de-Lion John -Lackland gave it up to the French Crown, and afterwards, filled with -remorse, or more probably with alarm, at the news that his brother was -returning from Palestine and might demand what had become of Evreux, -ordered a general massacre of the French garrison quartered there and -ran away himself, leaving his wretched English subjects to bear the -brunt of the French king’s wrath when the story should come to his -knowledge.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_107_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_107_sml.jpg" width="550" height="376" -alt="EVREUX" -title="EVREUX" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">EVREUX</span> -</p> - -<p>After several vicissitudes of this kind, Evreux was in 1404 finally -joined to the Crown of France, though it still seems to have been tossed -about in the most confusing way, and we hear of it as belonging now to -France, now to Navarre, then sold to the Darnley Stuarts and back again -to France; and so on until Napoleon, having divorced Josephine, -pre<a name="page_092" id="page_092"></a><a name="page_093" id="page_093"></a><a name="page_091" id="page_091"></a>sented her out of his imperial bounty with a part of the Comté -d’Evreux as a compensation for her trials. The modern town, however, has -not at all the air of having been the plaything of kings and states. The -only noticeable traces of its ancient warfare are the machicolated walls -of the bishop’s palace, and the moat below, running between the palace -and the Boulevard Chambaudin. The moat is now filled up by a -kitchen-garden—a striking example of how peace has succeeded war in -Evreux—but it is easy to imagine how it must have looked in the old -days; the dark, still water, the steep walls rising up to their turrets, -the treacherous machicolations, apparently ornamental but in reality -only too useful, and above it all the grey towers of Notre Dame.</p> - -<p>The interior of the Cathedral extends in date from the Romanesque to the -Renaissance period. The nave bays offer examples of what is known as -“skeleton construction”; they consist of a Romanesque pier arch (said to -be the remaining work of Lanfranc) surmounted by a large clerestory and -small glazed triforium; the clerestory wall, as Mr. Bond points out, is -so shallow that it “ceases to exist <i>quâ</i> wall.” It is in some way -analogous to the choir of Gloucester in its “attenuated construction.” -The lights are filled in with glass, apparently of the late fifteenth -century. As Whewell says, the transepts<a name="page_094" id="page_094"></a> and part of the choir are most -remarkable and most ancient examples of the Flamboyant style. The choir, -burnt down in 1346, was restored in the second half of the fourteenth -and early fifteenth centuries; the transept was finished about 1450. The -English took possession of the town in 1418, but this did not in any way -hinder the work from being carried on. In 1422 Tchan le Boy was made -<i>maître de l’œuvre</i>, and to him is attributed the Lantern Tower, -springing from a beautiful vaulted base. The <i>vitrail</i> of the Saintes -Maries and its mouldings, probably designed by Le Boy, follows the -English type.</p> - -<p>Evreux is, according to Whewell, “a mixture of Flamboyant and -Renaissance. The Flamboyant dies down gradually into Italian, especially -in the series of wooden screens to the chapels round the choir, where -every sort of mixture is noticeable.” In some of the glass and on the -outside panels of the west doors the artists have attempted to show -their knowledge of the newly-discovered science of perspective, but they -pay little regard to the vanishing point. On the north side, the windows -of the aisle, with high pediments cutting the balustrades, are very -beautiful examples of the prevailing style. The western towers “are to -be considered as Gothic conceptions expressed in classical phrases.”</p> - -<p>In the far west of the town, at the end of the Rue<a name="page_095" id="page_095"></a> Josephine, lies -Saint Taurin, the second church of Evreux, in its quiet little square, -screened by magnificent elm-trees, a square and solid-looking building, -with a good deal of work that is very interesting and undoubtedly -ancient. Originally the church formed part of a Benedictine Abbey -founded in 1026; an ancient crypt remains, built, as purports to be the -case with so many churches, round the tomb of the patron, Saint Taurin, -who in the fourth century brought Christianity into the town, and whose -story may be read in the fifteenth-century glass of the choir. His -relics are preserved in a wonderful carved casket of the thirteenth -century, which may be seen by the curious in the church treasury. In -three bays of the south nave the vaulting ends in some curious stone -carving in the form of grotesque heads, which belong to the sixteenth -century.</p> - -<p>“Once a cathedral, always a cathedral” was the theory which led us to -Lisieux <i>en route</i> for Bayeux. It seemed almost as absurd that the great -church of St. Pierre should not be counted a cathedral as that St. -Etienne and the other churches of Caen should be churches and nothing -more. In this respect, indeed, Lisieux takes precedence of Caen, for -until the days of the Empire she had a bishopstool of her own, while -Caen never actually possessed the dignity of an episcopal see.<a name="page_096" id="page_096"></a></p> - -<p>Lisieux is one stage further on the high road between French Normandy -and Norman Normandy, and is some way over the Norman border; at Rouen, -at Evreux even, we were in France, but here all around us, as at Bayeux, -are signs and tokens of a land more closely akin to our own, and we feel -that we have at last reached Normandy proper. Lisieux, both for its -Cathedral and for itself, is full of interest. The general impression is -that of a bright little place with a great deal of life—the life of -shop and market—to be seen on all sides, but none of the modern -commercial spirit, such as dominates a place like Rouen. There is a very -mediæval air about Lisieux, and the old houses, of which there are -plenty, are to be found not in out-of-the-way alleys, but in the chief -streets. The Grande Rue has one magnificent specimen, now a boot-maker’s -shop, opposite the Rue du Paradis; down at the bottom of the hill, in -the Rue de Caen, is a house where Charlotte Corday spent the night on -the way to Paris to fulfil her terrible mission, and the Rue aux Fèvres, -where one seems to have walked straight into the Middle Ages, contains -the “Manoir de François I<sup>er</sup>,” a beautiful sixteenth-century house, -from whose name one would at least suppose that François once spent a -night there, whereas he probably never went near the place, and its -chief claim to the title lies in the abundance of<a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a><a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a><a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a> carved salamanders -on the splendid house-front, and even these are mixed up with apes and -other grotesque creatures.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_113_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_113_sml.jpg" width="368" height="550" -alt="THE TOWER OF EVREUX" -title="THE TOWER OF EVREUX" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE TOWER OF EVREUX</span> -</p> - -<p>The Church of St. Jacques stands almost at the top of the hill, between -the Rue St. Jacques and the Marché au Beurre, where most of the -straggling streets converge. It was built in the last years of the -fifteenth century, and is a fairly complete specimen of the French style -of that period, standing upon a long, wide flight of steps, with a -balustrade running completely round the building. The floor inside -follows the slope of the hill, and slants upwards from west to east.</p> - -<p>The church contains some half-effaced frescoes on the nave pillars, and -a very curious old painting on wood, representing the miraculous -translation of St. Ursin’s relics to Lisieux in 1055. This picture hangs -in a chapel in the south aisle, dedicated to St. Antony of Padua, not in -St. Ursin’s own chapel, which is on the other side of the nave.</p> - -<p>Lisieux looks like a town with a history, and, like most French towns, -goes back to Roman times, when it was known as Noviomagus or as Lexovii, -from the Gallic tribe which had settled there. Rolf obtained it as part -of his Norman duchy; Geoffrey Plantagenet and Stephen of Blois fought -over it and between them reduced the town to a terrible state of<a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a> -famine, for which Henry II. of England tried to make amends by causing -his own marriage with Eleanor of Poitou to take place in the Cathedral. -Thomas à Becket took refuge at Lisieux on one occasion and left behind -him some vestments, which are proudly displayed in the chapel of the -<i>Hospice</i>.</p> - -<p>During the Hundred Years’ War and the religious quarrels two centuries -later, Lisieux shared the fate of other towns as regards sieges and -conflagrations; but after this we hear little of its history, and may -assume that it emerged from its trials much as we see it now—busy and -peaceful once more, with leisure to turn again to the old-world town -routine which makes the Lisieux of to-day.</p> - -<p>The interior of St. Pierre, according to Whewell, “bears a great -resemblance to Early English work, although the French square abacus is -still to be found here. The round abacus is noticeable in the arcades -under the windows of the choir, giving quite an English look to this -portion of the church.” There is at the west end a large interior porch, -which is referred to by most writers on architecture. The two towers -vary in their openings, one having lancet lights and the other small -round-headed windows. The nave is large, consisting of eight bays, and -built, it is said, about 1160. The tympana of the choir triforium arches -are filled with plate tracery, quatre<a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a><a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a><a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a>foil and cusped. The most -beautiful interior elevation, however, is that of the north wall of the -transept. Here the three large upper lights remind one of the well-known -“Five Sisters” at York. The lower double-light window is deeply -recessed, with elegant clusters of engaged shafts supporting the -graceful mouldings round the opening. The transept also possesses an -eastern aisle, which is said to be a rarity in France.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_117_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_117_sml.jpg" width="550" height="393" -alt="ST. JACQUES LISIEUX" -title="ST. JACQUES LISIEUX" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ST. JACQUES LISIEUX</span> -</p> - -<p>The church itself is unfortunately situated in a corner of the <i>Place</i>, -and a large building which abuts on its north-west tower detracts -considerably from its beauty and importance. The south transept door -opens into the Rue du Paradis—a name which one is glad to see preserved -in the neighbourhood of French cathedrals. It may refer to a garden or -close which has been absorbed by surrounding buildings, or to a -closed-in porch, the upper stories of which have been used either as -libraries, or as lodgings for chantry-priests.<a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Six" id="Chapter_Six"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_6.png" -width="142" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Six" -title="Chapter Six" -/><br /><br /> -<small>BAYEUX</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_w.png" -width="60" -height="58" -alt="W" -title="W" -/></span>E read of Bayeux—before going there—as a place where many went but -few stayed, because of the towns behind and before; memories of Caen and -Lisieux, expectations of Coutances and Saint-Lô, which dimmed the modest -light of little Bayeux. It is curious, however, that this should be the -case, when we remember how important was the position it held in the -history of mediæval Normandy. It was the chief town of the country known -as the Bessin, a district lying immediately to the west of Rolf’s duchy -at Rouen, and the conquest of which was the next stage on his westward -road. One interesting point here is that the inhabitants of the Bessin, -even as far back as the later days of the Roman Empire, were not Celts -but Saxons—men of the same race as Rolf, who took possession of Bayeux -in 924, and established there a Danish settlement, which, as Freeman -says, was always a thorn in the side of the Celts, and provoked many -attacks<a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a> from its Breton neighbours. Saxon and Dane made common cause -against the enemies both to the east and to the west; and thus at Bayeux -there grew up a strong Teutonic colony, without the Frankish element -which, as we have seen, worked such changes at Rouen. The old Norse -religion obtained here long after eastern Normandy had become Christian; -and the Bayeux colony bore much more affinity to the Danish settlements -in England than to that at Rouen, the nucleus of Normandy, which was -hardly Norman at all, whereas, as Freeman remarks, “the acquisition of -Bayeux gave Normandy all that created and preserved the genuine Norman -character.” For this reason William Longsword chose that his son, -Richard the Fearless, should be brought up at Bayeux rather than at -Rouen—so that, living amongst his own people, he might in time come to -be not only Duke of Normandy, but also Duke of the Normans.</p> - -<p>The Bessin still preserves this ancient distinction, and both country -and inhabitants bear a great resemblance to those of England. Bayeux -itself is a quiet country town, built up one low hill and down -another—a town of long streets and grey-shuttered houses, possessing -three principal interests—the Cathedral, the Seminary Chapel and the -Tapestry. It is also the birthplace of Alain<a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a> Chartier, minstrel and -court-poet to Charles VII., and author of that curious document, the -“Curiale,” whose best praise lies in the fact that it was one of the -earliest books selected for publication by Caxton. It is a brilliant and -vivid picture of the court life of the time; and the story says of -Maître Alain that he intended it as an answer to a letter from his -brother Jean, enquiring whether he, too, could not find fame at court. -Certainly it looks as if the favoured brother wished to keep to himself -the good things of life, for although he paints in brilliant colours, -Alain does not spare the follies and vices of court life, and one cannot -help feeling that his object was to put the more obscure Jean “off the -scent.”</p> - -<p>Little is known of the circumstances either of Chartier’s birth or his -death, though of his actual life several records exist. He is known to -have been one of the most brilliant men of letters of his time, probably -rivalled only by Charles d’Orléans, and—since a court minstrel is -always a picturesque figure—he has come down to our times surrounded by -a certain halo of romance. His many writings, both in prose and verse, -are very little known to modern readers, though he had many disciples -among the men of his own time, and his “Bréviaire des Nobles” was -considered such a standard<a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a> for courtly manners that it was apportioned -out, so Jean de Masles tells us, into daily passages for the youth of -the court—that court of which Chartier knew every turn, every corner, -every glittering folly and every dark intrigue—to learn by heart. A -modern statue in his native town at the end of the Rue Général de Daïs -shows him in furred cap and flowing robe, a pen in one hand, and in the -other a sheaf of papers from which he is apparently declaiming some gay -rondel or pathetic ballad.</p> - -<p>His house in the Rue des Bouchers is also shown, with an inscription to -the effect that he was born there with his two brothers, Jean and -Guillaume; but it has now become a very small and dingy shop, and one -goes away with a feeling that a link with the past has been broken. But -although Chartier’s house would scarcely be singled out as an ancient -landmark, one or two there are in the quiet grey line of the Bayeux -streets that seem to belong to a better time, a time when watchmen -walked the streets by night and armed men clattered down them by day: -and among these stands out the really beautiful gabled specimen at the -corner of the Rue St. Martin. Here cross-timbers, black and white, tall -gables and lattice windows call for our admiration on our road to the -Cathedral; and<a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a> nearer the great church itself is the sixteenth-century -Maison du Gouverneur, and another “Maison d’Adam.” It is curious how -often street and house names in France reverted in this way to our -common origin. In countless places do we find Maisons d’Adam (Eve -sometimes has a share in the patronage of the house), with their figures -of Adam, Eve and the Serpent; sometimes, as at Rouen, a whole street -bears the name of the Père Adam. It would be interesting to know if this -is a cropping up of the Revolutionary <i>êgalité</i>—a wooden form of</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“When Adam delved and Eve span,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Who was then the gentleman?”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p class="nind">If so, the idea is certainly before its time, since many of these houses -and streets were built, and presumably named, when the Revolution was as -yet in its cradle.</p> - -<p>The Lanterne des Morts, a quaint structure with a quaint title, raises a -perforated cone on the south-west of the Cathedral. This mediæval -lamp-post had it name from the fact that it was lighted whenever a -funeral procession passed through the town; and it must certainly have -added to the impressiveness of the scene, especially when, as was often -the case in old days, the burial took place in<a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a> the dead of night, and -this red glowing beacon towered above the low roofs like a great funeral -torch as the chanting of the monks broke the stillness, and the sombre -figures with their burden moved into the church.</p> - -<p>Returning to the three principal attractions of Bayeux noticed above, -the Cathedral—the only church of importance—falls naturally into the -first place. Entering by one of the five beautiful gabled doorways, one -stands on a platform above the level of the nave floor. The standpoint -being thus raised, the length of the church is apparently enhanced. -There is a church in Rome and another at Modena where this <i>coup -d’œil</i> is effected by the street level being some twenty or thirty -steps above the nave.</p> - -<p>The bays of the nave, especially in their lower compartments, are very -remarkable. Above the twelfth-century round-headed pier arches, and -reaching to the very small triforium balustrade, the whole wall face is -decorated with beautiful diaper carving. This surface decoration is to -be found in Westminster Abbey, but not in the same varied richness as on -the walls and spandrils at Bayeux. On one of the bays the old corbels -which carried the organ in the thirteenth century still remain. The -clerestory windows are beautiful in proportion and constructed<a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a> in -double planes. The spandrils and tracery of the choir arches show -examples of early plate tracery.</p> - -<p>In the treasury one of the most interesting pieces of furniture is a -large <i>armoire</i> containing church vestments, and another example of -early joinery is to be found in the fine door in the south aisle. Here -huge planks, some eighteen feet in length, are fastened together by iron -bands and hinges, without framework of any kind. The two western towers, -together with the crypt, are said to be the only parts remaining of the -old church of Odo, brother of the Conqueror.</p> - -<p>We made two unsuccessful attempts to obtain entrance to the Seminary -Chapel; but as it is said to be a very beautiful specimen of early -Gothic, the short description given by Whewell may perhaps act as an -incentive to other visitors, and spur them on to greater importunity -than we used. He considers it to be “the most elegant and complete -example of the Early English style. The details resemble those of the -Temple Church in London, in the shafts, capitals, vaulting, &c. The -arrangement of the east end is remarkable, uniting as it does in a -considerable degree the effect of the polygonal apse and of the east -windows, having diverging vaulting but with eastern lights.”</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_127_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_127_sml.jpg" width="362" height="550" -alt="A STREET CORNER, BAYEUX" -title="A STREET CORNER, BAYEUX" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A STREET CORNER, BAYEUX</span> -</p> - -<p>At the present day it is upon the Tapestry that<a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a><a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a> Bayeux bases its -chief claim to notoriety, and the first feeling is one of surprise if -not of disappointment on finding that it can hardly be reckoned as -tapestry at all. This impression, however, soon disappears when we come -to consider the interest and importance of the work, not merely as a -local but also as an historic monument. Many and fierce have been the -controversies as to its origin—all the more so from the fact that it -was not brought to light until (speaking relatively) within recent -times, so that little can be gained from history or tradition, or, -indeed, from anything beyond the internal evidence. The form of the -Tapestry is well known to all visitors of Bayeux (and without going so -far afield, a very accurate copy may be seen at the South Kensington -Museum)—a long, narrow piece of linen, embroidered in crewel work of -five different colours, setting forth the conquest of England by Duke -William. In 1724 M. Lancelot found a copy of some of the scenes among -the papers of the Intendant of Normandy, and concluding after a close -investigation that everything pointed to the work being contemporary -with the events depicted, communicated his discovery to the Académie -Française. Montfaucon carried on the investigation, and finally -discovered the original of Lancelot’s copy in a length of tapestry which -was hung round the Cathedral at Bayeux on great festivals.<a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a> The early -authorities seem to have entertained no doubt of its being contemporary, -but later accounts set forth theories so widely different from one -another, and in some cases so flatly contradictory, that it is -impossible to enter into them within a very limited space. Following the -authority of Freeman, who treats the subject in a very complete manner -in his “History of the Norman Conquest” (vol. iii. Appendix, note A), we -may assume that the “Toilette du Duc Guillaume,” as it is called in an -ecclesiastical inventory at Bayeux of the fifteenth century, is -contemporary with the history of the Conqueror, but is more likely to -have been connected with Odo than with Queen Matilda. This theory is -supported by the prominence given in the various scenes to “Turold, -Vital, and Wadard, ” who are mentioned in Domesday Book as vassals of the -bishop, but are in themselves quite unimportant, which would suggest -that the original interest of the Tapestry was intended to be a purely -local one, for the Bishop of Bayeux alone. Freeman thinks it possible -that the work may have been done in England. When Napoleon became First -Consul he sent for the tapestry from Bayeux, and displayed it in the -Louvre as an incentive to Frenchmen to conquer England as Duke William -had conquered it some seven centuries before. After this it returned to -Bayeux, and was<a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a> formerly shown to the curious visitor rolled on a -windlass; but later days have treated it more reverently, and it is now -preserved under glass in a condition of colour and texture which, -considering its age and its adventures, it little short of marvellous.</p> - -<p>Side by side with that of the Conqueror, the other memory which Bayeux -calls up is undoubtedly that of the greatest bishop the little city ever -knew, who governed it during half a century of Normandy’s most stirring -history. Odo’s life-story stands out among those of the men of his time, -indeed, much as does the life-story of his half-brother, Duke William. -In an age when bishops wielded sword as well as mace, he outstripped his -contemporaries not only in ecclesiastical power, but in the highest of -temporal ambitions. Like Wolsey, he aimed at being Pope above all his -other goals. In the meantime Odo despised no stepping-stones to power. -He became Bishop of Bayeux in 1048; fought with William at Senlac, “in -full armour by the side of his brother and sovereign, as eager and ready -as William himself to plunge in wherever in the fight danger should -press most nearly,” and in the following year, when fear of foreign -invasions called the new king back to Normandy, he was left in joint -command of England with Fitz-Osbern, and given the title of Earl of -Kent. Thus we see that Odo had two distinct provinces—a<a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a> secular one in -England, a spiritual one in Normandy—and his rule seems to have -differed according to the province in which he found himself. As Earl of -Kent, the native chroniclers declare he was harsh, oppressive and -tyrannical; his followers were lawless, and were dreaded through his -territory. The chroniclers of Bayeux, however, show him up as a -munificent prelate, generous in giving, a patron of “learning and good -conversation, ” and, above all, a benefactor to his see in that he -rebuilt the church where his flock worshipped, and where the crypt and -part of the western towers still bear witness of his work. William of -Poitiers, the chronicler of all that William did, extends his panegyrics -to Odo, and declares that he was appreciated and beloved both in -Normandy and England. But this probably results, Freeman points out, -from the immense admiration of William the chronicler for William the -duke, which would probably—so partial were historians in those -days—lead him to believe that not only was the Conqueror impeccable, -but his lieutenants also.</p> - -<p>Caen follows as a natural corollary to Bayeux, and once one has embarked -upon a journey in the Bessin and Calvados districts, it seems almost -invidious to stay in one town without paying a visit to the others, both -being so intimately bound up with the story of the Conqueror.<a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a></p> - -<p>The churches of Caen have never had any pretence to episcopal dignity, -and it is curious that this city, richer in great churches than any town -in Normandy, should never have been raised to a bishopric, more -especially considering the number of cathedral towns which beside such a -city as this rank as hardly more than large villages, and yet which, -because they possess one church of importance, must take precedence of -Caen and other bishopless cities. Apart from its ecclesiastical dignity, -however, Caen should be visited because it is a town both ancient and -beautiful, and in memory of the great duke, who, English sovereign -though he was, yet seems to come before us much more vividly in Normandy -than in England. It was the Conqueror who made Caen—perhaps not as it -is to-day, but at any rate as it was in the Middle Ages. Caen, or -Cadomum as the Normans found it, was a tiny parish lying on the -outskirts of the Bessin district, burnt probably by the first Norman -invaders, and likewise included in Rolf’s conquests, but of too little -importance either to be harmed by the one or benefited by the other. -Then arose the discussion about William’s marriage with Matilda, the -dispensation granted by the Pope for their breach of canonical law and -the conditions under which William might keep his wife—that the duke -and the duchess should each build an abbey<a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a> church and foundation within -the town of Caen, that of William to serve for men, that of Matilda for -women; and forthwith the little town became a centre of attraction, -alive with workmen, visited no doubt from time to time by the duke and -duchess themselves in order that they might see how the work was going -forward. The Abbaye aux Dames was the first to be consecrated. Matilda -wished to hurry on the work, probably, as one writer says, from feminine -impatience to complete her task. The church finished under her auspices, -however, was too quickly erected to be more than a fragment, “simply so -much as was necessary for the devotions of the sisterhood, ” and its real -completion belongs to a day later than the time of Matilda, though her -original plan was in all probability carried out to the end. William, -however, took his time over the building of his church, and watched it -to the finish. It was consecrated, with the exception of the two western -towers, by Lanfranc in 1077, and stands to-day, in its strength, -simplicity and majesty, a fitting and lasting memorial of the man who -ruled England and Normandy and kept them with hand of iron.</p> - -<p><a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a>“The church of William, vast in scale, bold and simple in its design, -disdaining ornament, but never sinking into rudeness, is indeed a church -worthy of its founder. The minster of Matilda, far richer even in its -earliest parts, smaller in size, more delicate in workmanship, has -nothing of the simplicity and grandeur and sense of proportion which -marks the work of her husband. The one is the expression in stone of the -imperial will of the conquering duke; the other breathes the true spirit -of his loving and faithful duchess.”</p> - -<p>The foundation of the two great abbeys soon led to a growing population -outside their walls. Houses were built around the Trinité on the hilltop -and around Saint Etienne in the plain; various trades sprang up, we may -suppose, within the town; and a castle—always a patent of nobility to -any town—was built on the hill, where William might lodge during his -visits to Caen. These visits became more and more frequent until Caen -was elevated almost to the rank of a royal residence; and even when Duke -William became King of England, he found nothing in his new kingdom so -pleasant as the little city under the hill. He built walls all round the -town; he conceded to the inhabitants commercial privileges such as were -enjoyed by Rouen and other large cities, together with the right of -holding fairs, though the fairs of Caen never attained such celebrity as -did those at Troyes; and finally, it was through the streets of Caen -that his funeral train passed, bearing the<a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a> Conqueror to his long rest -in the church which he had built in the city which he had loved.</p> - -<p>“The death of a king in those days came near to a break-up of all civil -society. Till a new king was chosen and crowned, there was no longer a -power in the land to protect or to chastise. All bonds were loosed; all -public authority was in abeyance; each man had to look to his own as -best he might.” Thus is described the state of feudal England and feudal -Normandy after the death of the Conqueror at Rouen. A state of the -utmost confusion prevailed; and apparently quite as an afterthought, -masses were offered for the soul of him who so lately had kept all in so -strict an order. This confusion was not the outcome of any personal -disrespect to the dead king; it was simply a reaction consequent on the -removal of the one great headstone, the one great reliance of the realms -on both sides of the Channel. In the meantime the body of William was -borne to Caen to await burial. A Norman knight of the name of Herlwin -took upon himself the task of ordering funeral rites proper to the -degree of such a man, since neither kinsfolk nor servants seemed willing -to stir a finger. Once at Caen, however, the Conqueror’s faithful -followers received their dead master with all the honour and respect -which they had shown to him while living. The procession started in full -pomp towards<a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a> Saint Stephen’s and was met by the Abbot Gilbert, his -clergy, and a number of laymen. The monks fell into file, the solemn -chant arose; but suddenly the orderly progress was arrested by an event -as startling as any in the lifetime of the great man they were burying. -As the crowds filled the streets, a fire broke out in one of the houses; -and as in the Middle Ages fires were easier to kindle and harder to -quench than in later days, the flames spread along from house to house, -till it seemed as though a sheet of fire were pursuing the Conqueror to -his grave. Soon only the monks remained of the great company that had -set out from the monastery, and they went on apparently as though -nothing had happened, whilst the clergy, the lay helpers and the rest of -the crowd dispersed to save their belongings from destruction, the dead -man forgotten in the very real and living present need. “$1 -$2 ”</p> - -<p>At Saint Stephen’s were waiting a goodly company of bishops, Lanfranc of -Canterbury, Odo of Bayeux, William’s brother; Gilbert of Evreux, the -preacher; and Gilbert of Lisieux, learned in medicine; with Geoffroy de -Montbray, bishop of Coutances; and the saintly pupil of Lanfranc, Anselm -of Bec. The scene which followed is an interesting one. The funeral mass -was sung, the body being<a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a> borne along the nave and chancel up to the -altar; then Gilbert of Lisieux spoke the funeral oration, setting forth, -as was the custom, the tale of William’s battles and conquests, of his -glory in war and his firm rule in peace, of his defence of the Church -and his zeal against her enemies. “Pray, O people, that his sins may be -forgiven before God, and if he had sinned against you in anything, -forgive him that also yourselves.” At the close of the oration all heads -turned towards Ascelin, the son of Arthur, as he stood forth, and -forbade the body to be buried in land which the Conqueror had wrested -from his father. “I ... claim the land; I challenge it as mine before -all men, and in the name of God I forbid that the body of the robber be -covered with my mould, or that he be buried within the bounds of mine -inheritance.” Certainly here seemed some just impediment. An inquiry, -necessarily brief because of the time and place, was held, and Ascelin’s -witness proved true; and then and there a sum was paid down to the -claimant. Thus the great abbey which he had built was not lawfully his -own until the day of his burial.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_139_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_139_sml.jpg" width="550" height="365" -alt="BAYEUX FROM THE MEADOWS" -title="BAYEUX FROM THE MEADOWS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">BAYEUX FROM THE MEADOWS</span> -</p> - -<p>Another memory of the Conqueror in Caen remains in the Truce of God -which he imposed upon the Seigneurs of Normandy. Comparing this “Trenga -Dei” with the Crusades, Freeman says: <a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a><a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a><a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a>“The call to the Crusade fell in -with every temper of the times; the proclamation of the Truce of God -fell in with only one, and that its least powerful side. Good and bad -men alike were led by widely different motives to rush to the Holy War. -The men who endeavoured to obey the Truce of God must often have found -themselves the helpless victims of those who despised it.” The Truce was -preached first in Aquitaine in 1054, and Normandy was almost the last -country to receive it. When it reached the north of France it was in a -somewhat different form to that in which it had started. The early -preachers began by denouncing all private warfare; but even in an age -quickly fired by enthusiasm for a new movement, and more especially for -a religious movement, obedience to this decree was found to be -impossible. Men had hated one another too long to leap suddenly into a -state of perpetual love; and the decree was modified, imposing -abstention from private quarrels from Wednesday evening to Monday -morning in each week. Even this seemed at first too much for the Norman -spirit—“the luxury of destruction was dear to the Norman mind”—but the -preaching of Bishops Richard and Hagano at length took effect, and at -Caen, in 1042, was convoked the famous Council which was formally to -receive the Truce, and command its observance all through the land.<a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a></p> - -<p>Since then more than eight centuries have gone by; and yet to-day no -place seems to breathe forth the spirit of the great duke as does Caen. -In the castle on the cliffs at Falaise he was born, at Rouen was his -seat and capital, at Bayeux his victories are preserved in a lasting -memorial; but at Caen he lived and lies buried, at Caen he built houses -and churches and city walls, and at Caen we may still think of him, not -as the usurper of Harold’s throne, not as the oppressor of Hereward the -Saxon and the stern, uncompromising lord of the English, but as the hero -of the Normans, a figure more commanding even than the pioneer Rolf, and -one whose best praise lies in those memories of “le Conquérant” that -still haunt the Normandy of to-day.</p> - -<p>After William’s death the history of Caen is practically the history of -every town in Northern France. He had provided it with a commerce of its -own, so that it might be strengthened from within, and he had fortified -it against assault from without; it fell into English hands, like its -neighbour cities, both under Edward III. and Henry V.; it was ravaged by -the terrible “Black Death” in the fourteenth century, and harassed by -the League wars and stirred up by the revolt of the “Nu-pieds” under -Louis XIII.</p> - -<p>Finally, we find the Girondist party flying from<a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a> the “Convention” at -Paris and setting up an insurrection in the provinces, making Caen their -headquarters; and one more page from the awful book of the Revolution -shows us Charlotte Corday setting out from Caen, grim, ungirlish, filled -only with her dreadful purpose, down the long, white road to -Paris—which to her meant Marat.<a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Seven" id="Chapter_Seven"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_7.png" -width="171" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Seven" -title="Chapter Seven" -/><br /><br /> -<small>SAINT-LÔ AND COUTANCES</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_i.png" -width="60" -height="61" -alt="I" -title="I" -/></span>N very early days there was in Northern Gaul a little city on a -hill-top, with a river running below, and this city was called Briovira, -after the name of the river Vire. But in Christian times a certain -bishop of Coutances, a native of Briovira, extended his pastoral -protection to his birthplace, and called it by his own name, Laudus, or -Lô, by which it is known to this day, although the bishopstool has no -longer a place there. Saint-Lô does not strike one, either at first -sight or afterwards, as being a cathedral city. The first view, from the -railway, is a very rural one, and from an artist’s point of view the -place is more or less ideal, possessing as it does two important -qualifications of a “paintable” town—it has a river, and it stands on a -hill. Only the outskirts of Saint-Lô lie about the waterside; the real -town is higher up on the steep frowning cliff, and the Rue Torteron -straggles across the bridge and up the hill, and<a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a> finally, by means of a -steep little alley, leads out into the Place Ferrier, where stands the -Cathedral. Here, too, the Saturday market is held, and then the -hill-top, usually quiet and deserted, blossoms into life, and the Rue -Torteron is all a-clatter with farmers’ carts and the scurry of -<i>sabots</i>. The western half of the market-place is known as the “Place -des Beaux-Regards,” and from it, as its name testifies, stretches a wide -view of the river, fields, and wooded hills beyond; here, also, is the -fountain, crowned by Leduc’s graceful bronze peasant-girl, with -water-vessel poised easily over her shoulder.</p> - -<p>Saint-Lô was a Huguenot stronghold during the wars of the League, and -the cliff-face still retains a fragment of the old defences, the Tour -Beauregard, an ivy-covered ruin clinging to the rock, which probably -served as a watch-tower in times when the meadows of the Vire were not -so peaceful as they are to-day.</p> - -<p>The year 1575 saw the siege which the little town counts among the great -events of its history, when Colombières, the Huguenot, held out so -bravely against the Catholic army. Colombières had marched into Saint-Lô -some months before in order to place a garrison there in case of -assault, and the townspeople welcomed him almost as a protecting angel. -In the next year the enemy’s forces marched<a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a> up to the Vire under -Matignon, and demanded the surrender of the garrison. Colombières sent -back a defiant message in answer, and the enemy’s guns were soon -thundering about the rocks above the river. Saint-Lô happens to be -guarded by water on three sides—on two by tributary streams, on the -third by the Vire itself, and this western side is further strengthened -by the steep precipice, falling sheer down to what is now the Basse -Ville. Matignon determined to take a bold line and attack the Tour -Beauregard as well as the Tour de la Rose, which stood in a more -approachable part. All day the artillery played upon the cliff-face, and -all day Colombières cheered on his men to the defence, when a breach at -the Tour Beauregard had considerably detracted from their strongest -position. At last the gallant leader, springing upon the ramparts, -braved the enemy’s fire, and fell dead before their eyes rather than -suffer the indignity of surrender. When his inspiring presence was gone -from their midst the Huguenots seemed to lose heart; their defence -wavered, their fire became less fierce, and at the end the Catholics -stormed the rock and poured into the market-place.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_147_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_147_sml.jpg" width="550" height="366" -alt="ST. LÔ" -title="ST. LÔ" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ST. LÔ</span> -</p> - -<p>It is interesting to note that during the siege, as at an earlier one at -Beauvais, the women of the town signalised themselves by the good -service they<a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a><a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a><a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a> rendered, though it was certainly service of a -blood-thirsty order, since it consisted in pouring down the terrible -streams of boiling pitch and lead upon the heads of the besiegers; a -mode of defence, however, very often resorted to by those who did not -use firearms.</p> - -<p>Traces of Huguenot days can still be seen in the west front of the -Cathedral, which has evidently been defaced by some fanatical hand. The -irregularity of its porches gives to this façade a curious one-sided -appearance, that on the north having a round arch and the central and -southern arches being pointed. The two towers are of different periods. -In the seventeenth century, when the Cathedral was rebuilt, the -perforated stone spires were added, the architect finding his -inspiration in those at Bayeux and Caen. The best view of these is from -the Ville Basse, where they come remarkably well into the picture, -standing high above the grey roofs.</p> - -<p>Here the Cathedral-church is, as usual, the centre of all that there is -of antiquity in the town. There is one especially beautiful timber -house, known as the Maison Dieu, some little distance from the west -front; north and south of the church are various narrow streets—the Rue -de la Porte Dollée runs over the stream of the same name, and under<a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a> a -curious old gateway tower; the Rue Henri Amiard leads to the precincts -of the Cathedral, the south flank and its outward trend being well seen -from here; but there is nothing very tangible in the way of antiquity, -and one has an impression that when the bishop departed from Saint-Lô he -must have taken with him the soul of the place.</p> - -<p>Notre Dame de Saint-Lô has a very unusual and original plan, widening -towards the east and adding another aisle to the north and south -ambulatories. On the north side is its chief curiosity, an outdoor -pulpit, built at the end of the fifteenth century and probably used by -Huguenot preachers, to whom a sermon was a sermon, whether preached -under a vaulted roof or the open sky. What strikes one most about the -interior of the church is its want of light. The nave is absolutely -unlighted, having neither triforium nor clerestory, and the aisles have -only one tier of large windows, whose glass is old and very fine, though -in most cases pieced together; the nave piers are massive, with a -cluster of three shafts; those of the choir are quite simple, and have -one noticeable feature, the absence of capitals, the vault mouldings -dying away into the pier.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_151_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_151_sml.jpg" width="366" height="550" -alt="THE CATHEDRAL FRONT ST. LÔ" -title="THE CATHEDRAL FRONT ST. LÔ" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE CATHEDRAL FRONT ST. LÔ</span> -</p> - -<p>Like Saint-Lô, Coutances is a city built on a hill, and has therefore a -peculiar charm all its own. The<a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a><a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a><a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a> steep hill rises very impressively -from the rolling country below, showing the Cathedral on the height, the -towers of St. Pierre and the grey houses and apple orchards on the lower -slope. As a town it has more to say for itself than Saint-Lô; small -though it is, in respect of the part it has played in the history of its -surroundings it can hold its own with many larger towns. Coutances on -its granite rock is the watch-tower of the flat marshy Côtentin. It -looks out to sea on the one side and over its subject towns on the -other; it has seen the sun flash on the winged helmets of the Danes, on -the spears of Englishmen of Agincourt, on the grim figures of the -Huguenot leaders in the days of the League, as each in their day marched -over the plains to Coutances for the sake of plunder, conquest and -religion. Even in Roman times it was of importance; the Gauls called it -Cosedia of the Unelli, but towards the end of the third century -Constantius Chlorus fortified the town and called it after his name, -which it bears at the present day—Constantius—Constance—Coutances.</p> - -<p>The son and successor of this Constantius was Constantine the Great, -from whose reign dates the spread of Christianity over Western Europe; -and the Côtentin, as an old saying goes, now found itself divided -between Saint Martin and Sainte Maria.<a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a> Churches were built all over the -land; bishops—every one a saint in these early days—followed the light -of St. Augustine in England, and journeyed about the country making -conversions and working miracles.</p> - -<p>In the fifth century Coutances received its first great church, the -basilica of St. Eureptiolus, built, according to local tradition, upon -the foundations of a pagan temple. Later on, Norman invaders did their -best to undo the good work of the Christian bishops, and we hear that -the bishops of Coutances in particular were compelled to take refuge in -Rouen for a century and a half, until the peninsula finally passed into -the hands of William Longsword in 931, and for a time the churches had -peace.</p> - -<p>The barons of the Côtentin played a considerable part in the Norman -Conquest of England, being among William’s most loyal supporters. -Taillefer, the famous warrior at the battle of Senlac, the seigneurs of -Pommeraye, Blainville, Pierrepont, all kept up the honour of Coutances -in the lands across the water, as well as Bishop de Montbray, who, like -Odo of Bayeux, held the office of a bishop in his own country and of a -feudal lord in England. History has it on record that he held no less -than two hundred and eighty fiefs in the conquered country, besides the -lands which belonged to his ecclesiastical jurisdiction<a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a> in the -Côtentin. After the death of the Conqueror various pretenders to the -dukedom of Normandy arose, and Coutances suffered from the local wars, -falling into the hands of Fulk of Anjou and being retaken by Henry I., -and to complete the harassed state of the Côtentin a dreadful famine -spread over the district and reduced the town to a state of the utmost -misery. In 1203 it was joined to France with the rest of Normandy; but -this practically meant an entire renunciation of its freedom. Philip -Augustus and Louis IX. confiscated its seigneurial rights and set a -French governor to rule over the country instead of the Norman lords, -though the latter king probably made up, in the eyes of the people of -Coutances, for these encroachments by paying a visit to their town, -which honour is remembered by them to-day not only as an act of royal -condescension but of saintly beneficence.</p> - -<p>In the wars of Edward III. and Henry V. Coutances had its share. -Standing in the western corner of Normandy, the town came at the end of -a long line of strongholds which one after the other had surrendered to -the English assault. Valognes fell, then the Ponts d’Ouve, then Carentan -and Saint-Lô. Next Edward turned off towards Caen and followed on to -Crécy; so that it seemed at first as though Coutances would escape -altogether. However,<a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a> the treachery of one of the neighbouring lords was -to attempt what the enemy had left undone. In 1358 there lived in the -château of Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte a certain Geoffrey d’Harcourt, -surnamed Le Boiteux, whose nephew had been treacherously murdered at -Rouen. D’Harcourt resolved to revenge the crime upon the city of -Coutances. He got together an army with the help of the King of Navarre, -and drew up his troops outside the town, with heavy machines for -battery; and he had succeeded in forcing a breach, when the royal army, -arriving at an opportune moment, upset his schemes and sent him back to -his château of Saint-Sauveur. In the latter part of the war, however, -this good fortune left the city. After his victory at Agincourt the -English king marched westward to subdue the towns in the far corner of -Normandy, and Coutances fell into his hands in 1418, remaining under the -same rule until the Constable de Richemont drove out the English in -1449; and it is said that to all those of the inhabitants who had -remained faithful to his cause Charles VII. made reparation for all the -spoliation they had suffered at the hands of the English. This may, of -course, have emanated from that prince’s indolent good nature, which did -not object to granting a favour where it was not too much trouble; but -considering the utter laziness of Charles<a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a><a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a><a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a> it seems unlikely that he -should have troubled himself to this extent in the cause of a little -city in the west, far away from Paris, when he was occupied with the new -experience of being king in fact as well as name.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_157_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_157_sml.jpg" width="550" height="368" -alt="COUTANCES" -title="COUTANCES" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">COUTANCES</span> -</p> - -<p>The League Wars were the next to touch Coutances. -Bricqueville-Colombières, who, as we saw, was to meet a soldier’s death -upon the walls of Saint Lô some years later, took possession of the town -in the name of the Protestants in 1561, and as the standards of both -armies were followed by crowds of half-savage, ignorant peasants, -thirsty for plunder of any sort, Coutances found itself overrun as it -had been by a tribe of wild beasts. Men, women and children were -massacred without quarter, churches and houses were rifled and, worse -than all, the beautiful Cathedral of de Montbray suffered a like fate -and was despoiled of sculpture, carving, statues and sainted relics, the -bishop and clergy being struck down before they could attempt to quell -these barbarian inroads. This scene was repeated two years later, when -Colombières burnt part of the town, and again in 1566. After such -treatment, it is hardly to be wondered at that the inhabitants of -Coutances declared for the League, in spite of the fact that this -disobedience caused the temporary removal of both their civil and -seigneurial<a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a> rights, the one passing to Saint-Lô and the other to -Granville.</p> - -<p>In the reign of Louis XIII. Richelieu imposed upon the inhabitants of -Normandy the hateful tax known as the Gabelle, and by this means stirred -up the revolt of the “Nu-pieds.” Coutances shared in several of the -subsequent disorders. One Poupinel, charged with a commission from the -Parliament of Rouen, was murdered in the streets of Avranches; and the -tax-gatherer at Coutances, fearing a like fate, armed all his followers -in the event of a possible disturbance. The worthy man’s extra -precaution, however, proved to do more harm than good; his servants in -their excess of zeal saw an enemy in every harmless farmer come to do -his marketing in the town, and a deadly weapon in every ashen stick, and -the pitch of excitement grew so high that when the bell of Saint Pierre -began to ring for a christening, they took it for the warning peal of -the tocsin, and rushed out into the streets with loud cries, brandishing -their weapons and assaulting in their excitement every innocent burgher -whom they met.</p> - -<p>As was but natural, this unprovoked attack roused the dormant spirit of -revolt among the people; Nicolle, the unfortunate tax-gatherer, found -out his mistake too late; the <a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a>“Nu-pieds,” under their chief, Le -Sauvage, burnt down his house and murdered his brother; and for a few -days, until the popular fury had quieted down, Coutances was thrown into -a state of revolution. The terrible disturbances of the next century, -however, did not work much havoc here. Only twenty-three persons in all -were sent to the guillotine from Coutances during the Terror, and most -of these, we are told, were burghers and not aristocrats, and the -victims of private vengeance rather than of public fury.</p> - -<p>Coutances had a good many notable bishops. There was Eureptiolus, -mentioned above; there were Laudus, the founder of Saint-Lô; and Robert -of Lisieux, who built his church on the foundations of the old basilica; -and Geoffroy de Montbray, whose best life-work was given to finishing -what Robert had begun; Hugues de Morville, who restored the Cathedral in -the thirteenth century; and energetic, tenacious Geoffroy Herbert, who -was possessed with a perfect mania for building, in and out of -Coutances, and to whom the town owes the church of St. Pierre.</p> - -<p>The Cathedral at Coutances was founded by the widow of Richard the -Fearless in 1030, and completed towards the end of the century by -Geoffroy de Montbray, William the Conqueror<a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a>’s fighting bishop. After -the union of Normandy to France it was rebuilt, and the work of -restoration extended into the fifteenth century. Entering by the north -porch one is struck by the beauty of the doorway, whose overhanging -mouldings and shafts are designed with great elegance and freedom. The -English type of capital, with round abacus and vigorous foliation, -reminds one of the cathedrals of Salisbury and Lincoln; and the tympanum -with its sadly-mutilated figures is carried on a corbel table of great -beauty. The interior elevation of the bays is composed of three -features—pier arches, a fine triforium with quatrefoil balustrade, and -a rather small clerestory with a passage-way crossing its base. There is -a great deal of exquisite glass in the cathedral, especially in the -transepts. In the choir the love of high clerestories, admitting as much -light as possible to the chancel, to the almost complete extinction of -the triforium, shows itself here as in many other churches already -noticed. The upper windows are in two planes, with a light shaft -supporting the interior arches.</p> - -<p>In the ambulatory there is what looks like a blind stone bay, corbelled -out and resting on the capitals of the columns. Probably this is a -staircase leading to the upper passages of the triforium and clerestory. -The lantern, which is octagon in plan, has three<a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a><a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a><a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a> tiers of arches, the -over-hanging sides being supported by a simple pendentive with very -slight mouldings.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_163_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_163_sml.jpg" width="365" height="550" -alt="THE SOUTH PORCH OF THE CATHEDRAL, COUTANCES" -title="THE SOUTH PORCH OF THE CATHEDRAL, COUTANCES" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE SOUTH PORCH OF THE CATHEDRAL, COUTANCES</span> -</p> - -<p>Beyond the Place du Parvis, where the Cathedral stands, is the Musée, -once the house of Quesnel Morinière, who at his death left to the town -both house and garden. The latter is now converted into a Jardin Public, -which every French town, however small, seems to possess; and sitting or -walking amidst its shady alleys and green lawns, with catalpas and -orange trees in full bloom overhead, one feels very kindly disposed -towards the good citizen who planted them and left this possession for -the enjoyment of his fellows.</p> - -<p>During our stay at Coutances one incident took place which may be -interesting as showing how mediæval customs still survive in these -little towns. In the middle of the night we were roused from sleep by -the blast of a bugle in the street below. This was presently followed by -a roll of drums and shouts of “Au feu! au feu!” The deep-toned bell of -St. Nicolas then took up the alarm and echoed out far and wide its -warning notes. In a moment the town was awake. Heads peered out at every -window, and the street was soon alive with the tread of hurrying feet; -café and cabaret furnished their contingent to the excited crowd, and -even children were brought<a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a> out of their beds to gaze down the blazing -street. The gregarious and sympathetic Frenchman can never allow any -event to take place, be it funeral, festival or fire, without calling -all his friends to assist at it; and the general turn-out into the -streets reminds one of the thousands of Londoners who left their beds to -celebrate the relief of Mafeking.<a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Eight" id="Chapter_Eight"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_8.png" -width="157" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Eight" -title="Chapter Eight" -/><br /><br /> -<small>LE MANS</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_e-q.png" -width="70" -height="58" -alt="“E" -title="“E" -/></span>ACH land and city,” says Freeman, “has its special characteristics -which distinguish it from others. One is famous for its church and its -bishops, another for its commonwealth, another for its princes. Le Mans -has the special privilege of being alike famous for all three.” At Le -Mans, church, counts and commune have each made a separate mark upon the -roll of French history. The communal power gave the town strength within -itself; the counts of Maine, whose line dates back to the time of Hugh -Capet, made of it a mighty feudal possession; and the great church above -the Sarthe, whose traditions have been handed down even from Saint -Martin of Tours, stood apart on its hill-crest and watched over the -city.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_169_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_169_sml.jpg" width="368" height="550" -alt="ST. PIERRE, COUTANCES" -title="ST. PIERRE, COUTANCES" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ST. PIERRE, COUTANCES</span> -</p> - -<p>As was usually the case in these powerful cities the commune was the -last element to arise at Le Mans; before its appearance we find both<a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a> -Church and State fully established on the hill. Julian built his church -under the rule of Trajan; Defensor, the local ruler, lived in his palace -side by side with the great missionary bishop who had converted him to -Christianity; and after him came the line of counts who seem to have -been always at war either with Normandy on the one side or with Anjou on -the other. Considering these two powerful neighbours, it is wonderful -what a prestige Maine did succeed in establishing, by the help of her -bishops, and also by the help of the strong fortress which was her -capital city. But in the reign of the prince from Liguria, Azo, to whom -Maine had descended in an indirect line, a third factor thrust itself -into the growing fabric of the city. It may have been the example of -Italian states which the coming of an Italian ruler had brought before -the Cenomannians more forcibly; it may have been the encroachments of -the Countess Gersendis, regent in the absence of her husband; but from -whatever cause, it was certain that memories of the municipal rights of -ancient Gaul were being kindled amongst the people—murmurs were heard -of a time when, under the Roman yoke, a prince did not signify a -tyrant—and presently the Cenomannian burghers took the law into their -own hands and met together to declare their freedom and—a testimony of -their<a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a><a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a><a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a> strength—compelled Geoffrey of Mayenne and all the surrounding -princes to swear their civic oath. Thus was founded the earliest -<i>commune</i> in Gaul, and when, soon afterwards, the Conqueror subdued Le -Mans and the whole state of Maine, the city still retained its newly won -privileges, William binding himself over to respect and observe the -customs pertaining to the same, the ancient “justices” of the city. A -threefold history of this kind leads one naturally to look for a -threefold interest within the town itself; yet this is lacking in the -city of to-day—its past glories lie rather in tradition and association -than in anything more tangible. The church still stands upon the hill, -but it stands alone. Almost every trace of feudal prince and ancient -commune has been swept away, and the old Le Mans has become a city of -solid white-painted buildings and clean, sunny <i>places</i>. By the -river-side and near the Cathedral a few old houses and crooked alleys -still remain, and here too may be seen fragments of the old city walls, -built by Roman forethought in the third and fourth centuries. These -ramparts have stood the town in good stead. From its position and -importance, Le Mans has always been coveted by the enemy, and since the -days of Clovis down to the war with Prussia it has known the tread of -besieging hosts at its gates. The Normans had it under the<a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a> Conqueror, -and lost it under his son, Duke Robert; during the Hundred Years’ War it -was besieged five times; the Huguenots took it during the wars of the -League; after the fall of the Bourbon monarchy it was seized in -desperation by the Royalists of La Vendée, but retaken by Marceau; and -nearer our own day comes the terrible “week of battles” in January, -1871, during which the Prussians occupied Le Mans and defeated the army -of the Loire so severely as to destroy all hope of relieving Paris.</p> - -<p>“In the second half of the campaign, in the contest against France ... -both belligerents kept the same goal before their eyes—Paris: the one -in order to dictate peace from within the walls of the conquered -capital, the other in order to gain that victory which would give to the -war the long and eagerly-desired change of fortune.” During the winter -of 1870 the army of the Loire had set out to reach Paris from Orléans; -but a succession of defeats drove it back to the Loire, from whence it -was to retreat upon Le Mans. Pursuit did not follow at once. The -Prussian Army, under Prince Frederick Charles, waited between Orléans -and Vendôme until the New Year, when an advance was ordered, and the -three divisions of the army marched upon Le Mans by their respective -roads. Passing Vendôme, which was the scene of a sharp engagement with -the<a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a> enemy, they crossed the country between the Loire and the Sarthe -with some difficulty; bad weather had made the roads almost impassable, -and the district was cut up into vineyards, farmsteads and small -valleys. “The invader rarely gets a general view of the country even -from elevated positions; he must renounce any plan of acting with large -displayed masses, especially in the case of artillery; the action of -cavalry is restricted to the roads, and the whole burden of the contest -falls exclusively on the infantry.” Fighting their way through the -scattered French forces two divisions managed to come within ten miles -of Le Mans by January 9, and on the next day the battle began. The -Prussian watchword was “Forward with all speed,” and such speed did they -make that at the end of three days they had advanced upon the French in -their strong position, keeping always to the maxim, “Stand firm in the -centre and act on the offensive at the two wings.”</p> - -<p>“On January 11, the French army of the West was completely defeated near -Le Mans by the German Second Army, under Prince Frederick Charles and -the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg, and Le Mans was immediately occupied.” -Such was the announcement in <i>The Times</i> newspaper on the morning of -January 13, 1871.</p> - -<p>General Chanzy, who was in command of the<a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a> French army of the West, -courted defeat by advancing upon Paris, and by his retreat upon Le Mans -invited the Germans to occupy it. Prince Frederick Charles, leaving -Orléans and passing Beaugency and Vendôme, arrived at the latter place -in time to see Chanzy repulsed, but not in time to cut off the French -army, which was now in full retreat towards Paris. A series of -rear-guard engagements followed as the Prussians drove the French before -them towards Le Mans. The storming of Changé was the last of the many -battles around Le Mans. It lies in a hollow with hills curving round it -on two sides, the north and west, and on these hills the French had -taken up their position. They had, apparently, no desire to advance and -clear away the Germans who were attacking them, laboriously marching -through snow and the thick woods which covered the position. The -attacking force ran from tree to tree and sought whatever shelter was -available, making frequent charges whenever an occasion offered itself. -Notwithstanding their pertinacity they failed to carry the heights, and -were for some time in danger of suffering a severe repulse, as the -reserves on whom they relied had not yet come up, but were pounding -their way along the frozen roads from La Chartre to Le Mans. The troops -bivouacked in the snow on<a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a><a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a><a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a> the night of the 11th, and when the frosty -sun rose on the morning of the 12th the French outposts had been -withdrawn and retired upon Le Mans. By this time the Tenth Corps had -joined the attacking force, and after heavy fighting in the streets and -squares the town was won in the evening, and on the following day Prince -Frederick Charles established there his headquarters.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_175_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_175_sml.jpg" width="550" height="364" -alt="LE MANS" -title="LE MANS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">LE MANS</span> -</p> - -<p>General Chanzy in his defence of Le Mans accomplished all that courage -and gallantry in his dire situation could suggest; he disputed the -country inch by inch before the advancing armies of the Duke of -Mecklenburg and Von der Tann, but he was unable with his raw levies, -with recruits undrilled, unshod and unofficered, to withstand the -furious onslaught of the enemy. Such is the short tribute paid to the -French general by <i>The Times</i> correspondent with the Prussian Army.</p> - -<p>The Cathedral of Saint-Julien sits astride a great rock overlooking the -Place des Jacobins—a square wide enough for once to allow of an -adequate view of the great church on its eastern side. It stands so high -that the want of a central tower is felt less than would be the case at -a lower level. The only tower of any pretensions is over the south -transept—originally the north transept possessed one also—but even -this is rather inefficient. It is advisable to<a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a> enter the Cathedral by -the west door rather than by the south porch, so as to prevent the -uninteresting west wall of the nave from becoming a factor of one’s -first impression. From this point it is the choir that first arrests our -attention; we pass on through the lower, simpler nave and through the -great soaring chancel arch that to look upon makes us giddy, to the -blaze of deep-coloured glass and the magnificent <i>chevet</i> of stilted -arches placed close together and looking from their great height much -narrower than they really are. The same idea of height and light -prevails in the transepts, for by this time the French architect had -begun to gauge the emotional effect of tremendous height, and to dare -greater things than his predecessors had ever dreamed; while the same -insatiable desire for light that we saw in the choir at Amiens has -possessed the builder of Saint Julien, and led him to make his transepts -nearly all window—especially the northern one, which has a triforium -lighted by beautiful fifteenth-century glass—and to put a double -ambulatory round the choir, both lighted by that marvellous jewelled -glass.</p> - -<p>The Romanesque nave was restored in the twelfth century, but this -restoration was apparently a replacement of a great deal of old work, -with only slight modifications of the original inspiration. A<a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a> large -door, decorated with sculpture and bearing a strong analogy to the -Portail Royal of Chartres, was opened in the middle of the south aisle. -Further changes were made in the early part of the thirteenth century, -when the ancient apses were destroyed, and the admirable choir, as we -now see it, was built—“a masterpiece of effect”—with its encircling -chapels radiating like the petals of a flower. The vaulting approaches -in construction the “cupola inspiration”; but here, as at Angers and -Poitiers, it is an example of only the last traces which remain to us of -the domical design.</p> - -<p>Besides the Cathedral there are two churches worthy of note—Notre Dame -de la Coûture, in the eastern quarter of the town, amongst the shops and -markets; and Notre Dame (sometimes called St. Julien) du Pré, across the -river in the far west. The latter church, in spite of having been a good -deal restored, is extremely interesting. In the nave hangs a little -printed history, which tells us that the church was founded by the first -bishop of Le Mans, Saint Julian, sent as a missionary by Saint Peter. In -honour of his great master Julian built a basilica, which was enlarged -by Saint Innocent in the sixth century and restored about 1050. In the -fifteenth century both church and monastery suffered from fire; two -centuries later the pious Benedictines made<a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a> some alterations, but -during the Revolution the church was sacked and burnt, and the crypt, -together with the tombs of Saint Julian and Saint Hadouin, entirely -destroyed. The task of restoration was left to the faithful in the -nineteenth century. In spite of the modern work, however, the church -contains a great deal that is very interesting and undoubtedly ancient. -The nave pillars especially, with their carved capitals, are worth -individual notice. In those of the north aisle, from west to east, we -find portrayed:</p> - -<p>No. 1. Animals caught in a thicket, turning their heads over their -shoulders to free themselves from the branches. Notice here how the -volute at the corner has suggested to the sculptor a human face.</p> - -<p>No. 2. Leaves and curiously twisted arabesques.</p> - -<p>No. 3. The same in a simpler form.</p> - -<p>No. 4. Volutes and grotesque heads at the angles.</p> - -<p>No. 5. [South aisle, east to west] gives a kind of rope-work, with -volutes and human-headed dragons.</p> - -<p>No. 6. Is much the same as No. 3.</p> - -<p>No. 7. Flat <i>applique</i> leaves, volutes and ball-flowers; and in</p> - -<p>No. 8. We return to the wild animals. Both aisles are arcaded on their -outer walls; on the north we find arches ornamented with ball-flowers, -on the south an arcade of some interest, as showing the<a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a><a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a><a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a> immense -variety of design in its capitals—dragons, fir-cones, arabesques, and, -strangest of all, winged lions, with a most Assyrian air. Apart from the -capitals, the architecture of the church is quite simple, and whoever -rehandled it has done so much in keeping with the old work. The windows -are round-headed: the clerestory consists of single lights, and the -triforium is a blind arcade.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_181_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_181_sml.jpg" width="367" height="550" -alt="NÔTRE DAME DE LA COÛTURE, LE MANS" -title="NÔTRE DAME DE LA COÛTURE, LE MANS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">NÔTRE DAME DE LA COÛTURE, LE MANS</span> -</p> - -<p>Notre Dame de la Coûture—the name originally referred to the <i>Cultura -Dei</i>—is an old Benedictine foundation, dating from the sixth century, -but destroyed during the Revolution; the church, however, remains, with -most of the old work intact, the two square fourteenth-century towers -rising in quaint contrast to the modern buildings around them. Between -the towers a remarkable Last Judgment confronts the visitor from the -west doorway. The central figure, Justice, weighs a sinner in the -balance, and apparently finds him wanting, if one may judge by the angle -of the scales and the expectantly gleeful attitude of a devil amongst -the “goats” on the left hand. Of the interior, the choir is the oldest -part, and here we find eleventh-century work, especially in the crypt, -which contains the tomb of the founder, Saint Bertrand, and shows the -rudely carved capitals and square-edged arches of an age before -architects had blossomed out into<a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a> beauty of sculpture and design. The -same simplicity characterises the choir, which has four bays and a -<i>chevet</i> of five-round arches, with massive piers, and the abacus square -and voluted at the angles. The vaulting of the <i>chevet</i> is terminated by -figures of saints, which rest upon the shafts of the clerestory windows. -There is no triforium, its position being taken throughout the church by -corbel tables in the form of human and animal faces. The nave consists -of a single wide body without aisles, and set in the blank wall are -three large bays of relieving arches, their space being filled in with -curious old tapestry, in which appears a medley of Biblical subjects, -pastoral and hunting scenes, and Chinese pagodas.</p> - -<p>This quiet little church was in the very centre of the furious street -fighting which followed the first rush into the city of the Prussian -troops, and fulfilled its sacred mission of giving shelter to the -wounded and comfort to the dying who lay stretched in the neighbouring -streets of the town. “We entered,” says the war correspondent of <i>The -Times</i>, <a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a>“the picturesque old church of Notre Dame de la Coûture, -interesting from its quaint mixed architecture, its old choir and -vaulted walls, and were told by the meek-looking priest who sadly showed -us over it, and was busy cleaning it as we entered, that no fewer than -six hundred wounded had passed the night in it.”</p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Nine" id="Chapter_Nine"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_9.png" -width="155" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Nine" -title="Chapter Nine" -/><br /><br /> -<small>ANGERS</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_i.png" -width="60" -height="61" -alt="I" -title="I" -/></span>F Le Mans marks the first stage from Normandy upon the southward road, -Angers may certainly be counted as another stepping-stone to the lands -of the Loire—another landmark in our own history—another city upon a -hill, and yet differing from all the hill cities before it. We are now -in what Freeman calls “before all things the land and the city of -counts,” the city which gave to history the name of Fulk the Black, -warrior and pilgrim and enemy of Odo of Chartres; of Geoffrey the -Hammer, who strove with the Conqueror at Domfront and Alençon; of René -the minstrel and of Margaret his daughter, who carried to England the -spirit of the old Angevin line, and fought with the strength of two for -the inheritance of her husband, meek, scholarly Henry of Windsor, for -whom the shield of faith had more significance than the shield of the -warrior.</p> - -<p>The house of Anjou cannot but have an interest to<a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a> an Englishman, since -it is the parent stock of our longest dynasty. Long before it came -through Normandy into contact with England it held its own, however, in -Gaul, Roman and Frankish. The Andecavi, who settled on the Maine, were -an important tribe, and their city was of equal importance. In 464 the -Saxons wandered down from Normandy and overran Anjou, but their -occupation was merely temporary, and left no traces in city or people, -as did the Saxon colonies at Bayeux and in England; and when this one -cloud has cleared off, an open field is left for the history of the -counts. Now the Counts of Anjou may be said to stand very near the head -of the list of all the rulers in France at this early time—a long list, -which numbers many important names, Hughs and Roberts of Paris, Williams -and Richards of Normandy, Thibauts of Champagne—yet against whose feats -of arms and feats of policy the Angevins can measure theirs almost one -by one. “The restless spirit of the race showed itself sometimes for -good and sometimes for evil, but there was no Count of Anjou who could -be called a fool, a coward, or a <i>fainéant</i>.”</p> - -<p>The first count, Ingelgar, received his dominion from Charles the Bald, -in about 870. After him comes Fulk the Red, who enlarged his father’s -borders beyond the river; Fulk the Good, the scholar<a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a> who defended his -learning with the well-known proverb, “An unlettered king is but a -crownéd ass,” a saying which spread beyond his own realm and found -favour at the court of England; and the warlike Geoffrey of the Grey -Tunic, who repelled the Breton and Aquitanian incursions and fought in -Frankish and German wars besides. Geoffrey it was who gave to the line -the famous Fulk the Black, the first count who appears to any great -extent in French history—the history, that is, of France proper, at -that time apart from the great duchies on her boundaries. His wars with -Odo filled a great part of his reign, and brought him down as far as the -Loire, where, through the alliance of a count of Périgueux, Tours became -his for a short time; also Saumur, after the victory of Pontlevois. On -two occasions he turned pilgrim; and he is also found at Rome, applying -to the Pope for consecration of his new monastery near Loches, which -Hugh of Tours, whose see Fulk had robbed, refused to consecrate unless -the stolen lands were restored. Naturally the Gallican Church resented -this destruction of their privileges; the full wrath of the episcopate -was pronounced against the recreant count, and a legend adds that in -further punishment a wind came from heaven and blew down his newly-built -church. How this uncanonical behaviour must have vexed the shades of -Fulk the<a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a> pious! Fulk Nerra was followed by Geoffrey, self-christened -the Hammer. He rebelled against his father during his lifetime, but -after his death continued the war with Chartres, and actually got -possession of Tours, the one city for which every Angevin strove. Count -Thibaut was formally deprived of the city by royal command, and it was -handed over to Geoffrey, under the favour, the superstitious chroniclers -make haste to add, of Saint Martin. Notwithstanding this royal grant, -Henry, the Frank king, seems to have been perpetually at war with -Geoffrey, and even to have called in feudal service of the Norman duke -to aid him against the Angevin count. William himself was no friend to -Anjou. The mastery over Maine was a bone of contention to the two great -powers on its north and south borders; and when Geoffrey obtained the -guardianship of little Count Hugh, and came into immediate contact with -Normandy, a definite struggle arose. Geoffrey aimed at the two outposts -of William’s territory, Alençon and Domfront. Alençon, through the -treachery of its lord, surrendered to him; Domfront was also -disaffected, and for a moment it seemed as though the land of the great -Norman were to be invaded by his southern neighbour. But William was -prepared for any emergency. He marched straight to Domfront, where -Geoffrey had already<a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a> stationed his troops, and laid siege to it. He -remained before the town for some time before news came of the advance -of Geoffrey himself; and when the Count at last arrived, he sent word of -his readiness to give battle. But when the morning broke upon the Norman -host, drawn up before the fortress all expectant of a battle with the -Angevins, lo! no enemy was to be seen. Geoffrey, whose surname of Hammer -by no means maligned his prudence, had thought better of the scheme in -the night, and retired with all his men. The Norman writers, of course, -set this down to cowardice. But one would like to hear the other side of -the story. “Here, and throughout the war, the lions stand in need of a -painter, or rather their painters suddenly refuse to do their duty. We -have no Angevin account of the siege of Domfront to set against our -evidently highly coloured Norman picture.”</p> - -<p>“The French yearning to make everything new” has done its work in -Angers, but though Fulk, Geoffrey, René, and the rest would be at a loss -to recognise their old capital in the trim modern town, enough remains -to show us what has been. No city standing as Angers does on rising -ground above a wide river, with a mass of castle bastions sloping up the -hill, could fail to have made history in its day. The modern town may be -disposed of in a few <a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a>words—it is clean and full of life, and -altogether very far removed from the “black Angers” known to our -ancestors. This mediæval and grim-sounding title, reminiscent of -dungeons and tyrant princes, probably either meant that the ancient town -was closely and squalidly built, or else referred to the dark slate with -which the country abounds, and which might well have been used for -building purposes all over the town, as we still see it in some houses -by the river.</p> - -<p>The attractive side of Angers is that facing the water, and the river is -quite worthy of the town on its banks, though Mr. Henry James does -censure the “perversity in a town lying near a great river, and yet not -upon it.” It is true that Angers has not got as far as the Loire; but it -has what is next best, a tributary of the great river—a wide placid -flow, which makes no mean show here, spanned as it is by three fine -bridges. Looking upstream from the lowest bridge one sees the old and -the new together; the clean well-to-do water-front, pleasant boulevards, -and a bright little quay with every house the pattern of its neighbour; -and above this the black mass of the castle, whose solid hugeness makes -the crowning towers of Saint Maurice look as if they were cut out of -paper, so delicately and sharply defined are they against the sky. Down -river there is a long and sunny path, broad green meadows and a stretch -of<a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a> country beyond, and little fishing boats dotted about on the water.</p> - -<p>But what Angers has of the best is its castle, though it be “the work of -intruding Kings,” Philip Augustus and Louis IX., and not of the Angevin -counts. It is, indeed, more massive than picturesque—“it has no beauty, -no grace, no detail, nothing that charms or detains you; it is simply -very old and very big—so big and so old that this simple impression is -enough, and it takes its place in your recollections as a perfect -specimen of a superannuated stronghold.” The huge grim bastions, girded -with iron bands as though to give added strength to their already -giant-like solidity, and the deep moat, filled in old days by the waters -of the Maine, stood there for a very real and terrible use, and even now -are a splendid example of how men in the Middle Ages defended themselves -against all comers. The very steepness and plainness of the vast walls -prevented an enemy from gaining any foothold, even supposing him to have -crossed the moat in safety. But this great house of defence now gives on -to a modern boulevard; a kitchen-garden occupies the moat, and sends the -scent of thyme and rosemary up through those loop-hole windows, whose -most peaceful prospect of old was the black, silent water below, and -whose usual occupants were armed men with cross-bows, or <a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a>boiling lead, -or something equally quieting to the unwary spirit attempting to scale -those unscalable ramparts.</p> - -<p>In the heart of the town is a very comfortable little inn at the sign of -the “Cheval Blanc.” The house has a quiet and rather old-fashioned -atmosphere, perhaps a relic of past days, as the inn itself has stood -there since the sixteenth century, though the present building is quite -modern. Another relic—though the term hardly suits such a hale and -hearty person—is a delightful old waiter, who has been at the Cheval -Blanc for forty years, and wears on his coat with the greatest pride a -minute piece of <i>tricolor</i>—the recognition of thirty years’ service. -Close to the Cheval Blanc is the Préfecture, and this contains a hidden -treasure in the shape of an old cloister, which runs along one side of -the court. This cloister was not discovered until 1836, but the remains -themselves date from the twelfth century, and are of extraordinary -interest, not merely from their antiquity, but also from the immense -variety of subject sculpture which adorns them. There are several bays -of round-headed arches, and from their capitals and mouldings dragons -and toads, snakes and winged lions, glare and wriggle at the visitor in -a grotesque medley. In some cases Scriptural subjects are -represented—there is notably the murder of the Innocents,<a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a><a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a><a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a> a -marvellously preserved and realistic fresco, reminiscent both in -treatment and colour scheme of some of the Bayeux tapestry; the killing -of Goliath by David, and the presentation of his head to Saul; and -inside a very modern council-room, a wonderful allegory representing the -defeat of Vice by Virtue. The Lamb, enhaloed, is in the centre; beneath -are two lions tearing apart a wild boar; and in the jambs are virtues, -armed with shield and sword, trampling upon demon vices—men struggling -with wild beasts—and adoring angels swinging censers. This is partly -coloured, and the sculpture is very fine, great attention being given to -detail.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_193_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_193_sml.jpg" width="550" height="366" -alt="ANGERS" -title="ANGERS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ANGERS</span> -</p> - -<p>Freeman declares the city of Angers to be the headquarters of the -Angevin style of architecture, and quotes as a noticeable example of -that style the Cathedral of St. Maurice, which differs at least as -widely from that of the French churches as from that of Normandy. The -object of the Angevin architect was breadth, and he has sacrificed both -length and height to the attainment of his end. The view from the west -doorway of St. Maurice shows a well-known example of what is termed the -“hall plan”—a single wide nave, having choir and transepts, but without -ambulatories or aisles. That the church originally had aisles, however, -is evident from a plan of Saint Maurice given in Mr. Lethaby’s “Mediæval -Art”;<a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a> they were removed, it is assumed, in order to simplify the -construction of the vault. The great relieving arches of the nave as it -now stands are divided into three bays only. “In everything,” Freeman -says, “the tendency is to have a few large members rather than many -small ones. There is a certain boldness and simplicity about this kind -of treatment; but there is also a certain bareness, and an Angevin -church looks both lower and shorter than it really is.” The vaulting of -the roof here follows the same sub-domical design as that of Notre Dame -de la Coûture at Le Mans. The stained glass is perhaps the best feature -of the church as far as actual beauty goes; some of it dates from the -twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and both in nave and choir it is very -fine, particularly in the windows of the apse and in the rose window of -the north transept. The tapestry which hangs in the nave and transepts -represents scenes from the Apocalypse, and is very fine Arras work of -the fourteenth century.<a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Ten" id="Chapter_Ten"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_10.png" -width="140" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Ten" -title="Chapter Ten" -/><br /><br /> -<small>TOURS AND BLOIS</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_s.png" -width="60" -height="60" -alt="S" -title="S" -/></span>O much has been said and written of the Loire country during the past -fifty years that the modern writer has very little ground left to him, -unless it be to avoid calling it the “Garden of France.” Yet -over-written as it may be, Touraine has not lost any of the charm and -romance which must always attach to a wide sunny land, watered by a -great river, and “peopled”—one might almost say—by châteaux, every one -of which has set its mark upon French history. Certainly there is -something very delightful, because so unlike anything else in France, in -the endless vista of grey-green levels—here and there a group of slim -shivering poplars or a flash of sunlight upon the wide waters of the -Loire, which winds in and out of the flats like a great lazy shining -serpent—flying sometimes into a sudden rage and flooding the land, or -subsiding sulkily amongst high banks and stretches of dry sand.<a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a></p> - -<p>It is these moods and tempers of the great river that prevent any -navigation upon its waters; other smaller rivers—the Seine, for -instance, and our own Thames—are alive with craft of every kind; but -here, on the great boundary stream between north and south, which seems -made for a waterway to the sea, no busy steamers ply up and down with -the tide—no barges and market boats disturb the calm of its wide -reaches. There never was, for its size, such an erratic and useless -river; yet we can afford to forgive it, for the sake of the land which -it waters and the cities on its banks.</p> - -<p>The impression one carries away from Tours is one of wideness, and -brightness, and sunshine—shaded by one or two ancient corners. It is -above all things a town really lived in and appreciated by its -inhabitants, many of whom are English. Tours is, or used to be, a famous -educational centre, and for the sake of education, or economy, or both, -whole families have migrated there, besides the unmistakably English -students who have been grafted on to a family to learn French. And the -river-side shows, if not a strenuously busy, at least a very sociable -side of the town life, especially in the summer evenings, when the -Tourangeaux, native and adopted, leave the white houses and busy -streets, and use their river bank for a pleasant walk.<a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a></p> - -<p>It is curious how in France each step towards the south seems to be a -step further in French history. First there is Normandy, the land of the -early Northern warriors, with the fierce blood untamed in their veins; -then Maine and Anjou, recalling the days of our own Plantagenet kings, -and the close connection of France with England; while Touraine brings -back to us the craft of Louis XI. and the magnificence of François -I<sup>er</sup>. Tours itself, however, has never been content to lie fallow for -long; ever since some Roman emperor transported it from the right bank -of the Loire to the left, and made it the capital of Lugdunensis Tertia, -the town has had an important part assigned to it, and has played out -that part to the full. Though in old days Tours was only half of the -place, the <i>cité</i>, the <i>bourg</i>, built round the tomb and shrine of Saint -Martin and first called by his name, was of equal if not greater -importance, from the many pilgrimages to the resting-place of the great -saint. This is easily understood when one considers in what veneration -Saint Martin was held by the Gauls and their descendants. Saint -Gatianus, the first bishop of Tours, began the good work in the third -century, but to Martin is due the subsequent spread of Christianity, not -only in Touraine but all over France, so that he really shares with -Saint Denis the honour of patron saint. Born of pagan parents in -Pannonia,<a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a> Martin became a catechumen at ten years old, and five years -later was forced, much against his will, to enter the army. After his -final conversion and baptism, however, he left it to become the eager -disciple and co-worker of Hilary, Bishop of Poitiers; and in 371 he was -consecrated Bishop of Tours. The legend of Martin’s conversion is well -known (at any rate it may be found commemorated in the painted windows -of churches all over France)—how the young soldier stationed outside -the gate of Amiens shared his cloak with a passing beggar, and how the -following night Christ appeared to him in a vision, making known to the -angels of Heaven this thing done to Himself as to one of “the least of -these.”</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_201_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_201_sml.jpg" width="370" height="550" -alt="TOUR DE L’HORLOGE, TOURS" -title="TOUR DE L’HORLOGE, TOURS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">TOUR DE L’HORLOGE, TOURS</span> -</p> - -<p>After Martin’s death at Candes his relics were brought to Tours, and in -the fifth century Saint Perpetuus built a splendid basilica round the -shrine. This church became the nucleus of the <i>bourg</i> of Martinopolis, -known to the Middle Ages as Châteauneuf. Side by side with the church a -monastery sprang up, and in the reign of Charlemagne the famous scholar -Alcuin became abbot and founded there his school of theology. Late in -the tenth century the basilica was destroyed by fire; two centuries -later saw the completion of its successor, but this again, after -suffering many evils from Huguenot and Revolutionist hands, disappeared -under the First Empire to make<a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a><a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a><a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a> a passage-way for the Rue des Halles. -Two towers—the church originally had five—now look mournfully at one -another across the busy, narrow street: the Tour de l’Horloge, square -and solid, with a leaded roof capped by a small eighteenth-century dome, -and the taller Tour Charlemagne, so called for the rather insufficient -reason that Charlemagne buried his third wife, Luitgarde, beneath its -base. These are the sole relics of the ancient <i>culte</i> of Saint Martin; -though to his memory in latter days a new basilica has reared itself on -the other side of the street.</p> - -<p>Until the days of the League, the kings of France always found an -attraction in the sunny Touraine meadows, and occupied themselves a good -deal with Tours itself. On the outskirts of the town is the village of -Plessis-les-Tours, where stood the famous fortress of Louis XI., who -lived, plotted and died within its walls; here also Louis XII. was -proclaimed “father of his people,” and here Henri III. and the King of -Navarre met together for a common defence against the League. To an -Englishman the name naturally associates itself with Quentin Durward, -and calls up a picture of the grim fortress so vividly described by -Walter Scott, with its triple moat and high palisades, its dark walls -and turreted gateways, defended by three hundred Scottish arches, and -the donjon tower <a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a>“which rose like a black Ethiopian giant, high into -the air.” The castle of Plessis was in old days a terror to the -countryside; the surrounding forest was a perfect network of man-traps, -and the intruder, were he fortunate enough to avoid these, had no chance -of escape from the arrows of the Scottish guard in their iron “swallows’ -nests” upon the walls. Hardly less mysterious, indeed, is the central -figure within these grim surroundings—Louis himself, whose character, -with its strange mingling of guile and religious fervour, unfathomable -craft and childish superstition, baffled the men of his own day as it -has baffled posterity. He was feared by those who served him, and he was -obeyed, because a terrible alternative awaited the disobedient; but he -was neither loved nor understood. Of love, indeed, he had little need, -and it was not his pleasure that men should understand him.</p> - -<p>Very little, however, remains to-day of the “verger du roi Louis” to -show that it was once the home of kings. It has gone the way of most of -the “illusions ... in the good city of Tours with regard to Louis XI.,” -and only a few fragments and “inconsequent lumps” share with some modern -buildings the site of this royal prison of Plessis-les-Tours.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_205_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_205_sml.jpg" width="367" height="550" -alt="ST. GATIEU, TOURS" -title="ST. GATIEU, TOURS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ST. GATIEU, TOURS</span> -</p> - -<p>The western façade of Tours Cathedral, with its two small towers, is a -noticeable example of the waning Gothic style. The detail is so -<a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a><a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a><a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a>“charmingly executed as almost to induce the belief, in spite of the -fanciful extravagance which it displays, that the architects were -approaching to something new and beautiful when the mania for classic -detail overtook them.” Looking eastward from the west door one notices -the northerly trend of the Cathedral’s axis, commencing from the -transept arches. The choir spreads outward at its first bay, the side -walls not following the alignment of the body of the church. The glass -is both abundant and magnificent in the nave lights, and the enormous -clerestory windows display it to the greatest possible advantage. -Unfortunately, the fine rose window in the north transept is marred by -the cutting across of a vertical pillar, inserted as a support to the -crest of the arch. In both transepts the triforium arches present a -curious and novel arrangement, the reason for which is not very -apparent. The arches are in a double plane, but the openings are not -directly one behind another.</p> - -<p>The pier arches of the nave are plain, with simple panel-like spandrils, -the piers themselves supporting a very large clerestory and glazed -triforium. In the latter the heads of the arches are filled in with rich -Flamboyant tracery, either in imitation of the fleur-de-lys, or with -varieties of wheel tracery in double plane. The choir is much<a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a> earlier -than the nave, and its bays show a beautiful proportion and harmony in -its members, the whole elevation being supported on clustered columns -with stalk capitals and square abacus. In the apse the tracery is a -slight variant from that of the choir; the arch-heads are here filled in -with trefoil instead of quatrefoil tracery. On the north side of the -Cathedral are the remains of some cloisters, joined to the main body by -two flying buttresses.</p> - -<p>To most travellers in France the town of Blois is associated with a -château rather than with a cathedral; it is one of a group of towns -known and visited for the historic piles which tower above their grey -roofs—Amboise and Chambord, Langeais and Chenonceaux, Chaumont and -Montrichard. We count Blois with these rather than with the towns famous -for their churches, and the bishopstool comes rather as a surprise, or -as a thing unconsidered. The Cathedral, built in the seventeenth century -and dedicated to St. Louis, occupies a magnificent position, overhanging -the grey water-front of the Loire in a fashion which seems to call for -some nobler building. However, although built according to a curiously -mixed design in bastard Gothic and Renaissance, there is a certain sense -of proportion in the interior of the church, the vaulting being -especially simple and broad in<a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a> effect. The nave consists of nine bays, -with a low clerestory, terminating in stone panels, which occupy the -place usually assigned to the triforium, and are left in the rough with -a view to subsequent enrichment by sculpture. The examples of adornment -at the east end, however, make one feel that the church has been -mercifully spared any further fantasies from the chisel of the -Renaissance sculptor.</p> - -<p>Far better is the Church of St. Nicolas, whose twin towers stand out -dark and sharp midway between the water-front and the overhanging mass -of the Château. It belongs to the tenth and eleventh centuries, and has -not been much restored except by whitewash, which covers most of the -interior, but allows a good deal of old work to be seen, especially in -the north aisle, where, near the pulpit, we find round-headed windows -very deeply splayed. The nave has five bays, and a blind triforium, -consisting of an arcade of four small arches in each bay, the last two -eastward having only three arches set in the blind wall. These last bays -are much ruder than the others, especially on the south side. The -clerestory has twin lights, with a rose in the head of the arch, as is -seen in the Cathedral at Chartres. The transepts are good, and the -little corbel-tables running the<a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a> whole way round, form a series of -those grotesque and curiously unecclesiastical faces of men and beasts -which we find so often in early church sculpture. In this particular -series a gridiron plays a prominent part, which is curious, as the -church appears to have no connection with Saint Lawrence. Behind the -choir is an old chapel dedicated to Saint Joseph, which has a Romanesque -apse; and it is noticeable that in this part of the church the roof -groining is simple—that is, without ribs. In the lantern, which is in -the form of a cupola, each pendentive is terminated by the figure of a -saint in its niche.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_211_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_211_sml.jpg" width="550" height="366" -alt="BLOIS" -title="BLOIS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">BLOIS</span> -</p> - -<p>High above Saint Nicolas a steep flight of steps leads up to the great -Château which has made history for the town below. The most striking -view is from the other side, where the magnificent “aile François -I<sup>er</sup>” rises in imposing fashion above the high road; but the entrance -is in the Louis XII. wing to the east, and here the beautiful inner -court opens out a varied display of richness. The eastern wing itself -contains the private apartments of Louis XII. and his wife, Anne de -Bretagne—these are now converted into a local museum and picture -gallery—and the lower storey is in the form of an arcade, with -unrestored capitals of the fifteenth century. Facing this is the wing of -<a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a><a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a><a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a>“ruled lines and blank spaces,” constructed by Gaston d’Orléans, -brother of Louis XIII., upon the foundations of a wing erected by his -ancestor, the poet-duke Charles, whom Henry V. took prisoner at -Agincourt, and whose son became Louis XII. The old castle of the Counts -of Blois had been sold to the Orléans family by the last of the line in -1397, and the new possessors, each in his day, occupied themselves in -restoring and embellishing it. So zealous indeed, in this respect, was -Duke Gaston, that, had not fate intervened, not only the west wing but -the entire building would have been pulled down to make way for his -plans. Happily for posterity, this devastation never took place, and the -François I<sup>er</sup> wing, the chief treasure of the Château, is still -preserved to us much as it was at the end of the sixteenth century, at -which time Blois may be said to have reached the zenith of its fame in -the history of France. The Château was then a royal residence, and the -roll of its inhabitants forms a long list of illustrious names, foremost -among which stand those of Catherine dé Medici and Charles IX., Henri -III., and the King of Navarre, and the famous Henri de Guise, who met -his death here through the suspicion and jealousy of the king, his -cousin. In the Guise tragedy the chief interest of the Château appears -to centre. Dark hints concerning “le Balafré” are thrown out during the -progress<a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a> through a succession of dim, empty rooms—council room and -bed-chamber, oratory and private closet, some flooded with sunshine, -others dark with the strange misty curtain that age will sometimes hang -across an old chamber, and through whose thin veil one seems to see the -shades of those old-time kings and queens, walking, plotting and praying -as they did when the Château was alive with the tread of men. All this -appears to lead up to the scene of the Guise murder, and as the guide -reaches the royal bed-chamber and points through a doorway here and down -a passage there, one seems to have reached the heart of the tragedy. -There, in the long council-room, the Balafré stood, warming his hands by -the fire, when the message came that the king awaited him in a cabinet -at the far end of the wing; here, in an ante-room close by, Henri III. -lifted the curtain and watched the enemy to his death; there in the -dark, narrow passage—too narrow even to allow of his drawing -sword—Guise found himself caught like a rat in a trap; here, in the -king’s own chamber, he doubled back for safety, and met his death at the -foot of the royal bed. It is all very thrilling and very real; and -little as there is to love in Henri de Guise, one cannot but pity the -man for the manner of his death; and there seems nothing but justice in -the murder of the king himself a short time afterwards.<a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a> This second -tragedy took place outside the old dungeon, a gloomy round tower with -cross-barred windows and a heavy iron door, behind which the Cardinal de -Guise, brother of the Balafré, suffered imprisonment at the hands of his -jealous cousin. In the centre of the dungeon floor is a trap door, -which, considering the general atmosphere of the place, one naturally -associates with an oubliette, but which more probably represented the -head of a well, run up through the building in order that the -inhabitants of the castle should not suffer from want of water in siege -time.</p> - -<p>It is curious to note that the historical description to which the -visitor listens to-day as he follows his guide through those empty -chambers at Blois is almost exactly the same as that given a hundred and -twenty years ago. Arthur Young, travelling in France in 1787, paid a -visit to Blois, and gives the following account of the Château and its -history: <a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a><a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a>“We viewed the castle for the historical monument it affords -that has rendered it so famous. They show the room where the council -assembled, and the chimney in it before which the Duke of Guise was -standing when the king’s page came to demand his presence in the royal -closet; the door he was entering when stabbed; the tapestry he was in -the act of turning aside; the tower where his brother the cardinal -suffered, with a hole in the floor into the dungeon of Louis XI., of -which the guide tells many horrible stories, in the same tone, from -having told them so often, in which the fellow in Westminster Abbey -gives his monotonous history of the tombs.”</p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Eleven" id="Chapter_Eleven"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_11.png" -width="171" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Eleven" -title="Chapter Eleven" -/><br /><br /> -<small>CHARTRES</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_c-q.png" -width="70" -height="61" -alt="“C" -title="“C" -/></span>HARTRES,” says Mr. Henry James, “gives us an impression of extreme -antiquity, but it is an antiquity that has gone down in the world.” It -may be this very decadence that has kept Chartres within itself and -prevented it from growing out into a large pretentious city. Many other -places which rival it in age and association have either swept away all -traces of their antiquity, or else preserved it in dignified contrast to -the modern mushroom town. Chartres has done neither. It is scarcely more -at the present day than a quaint country town with a very old-fashioned -air, a place of steep, twisting streets and quiet little market-squares, -the cathedral rising like a giant from the very midst of the houses. -Round the town runs a boulevard, known as the Tour-de-Ville, and -interesting for the fact that it follows the line of the mediæval -defences—ramparts that kept many enemies at bay when Chartres was a<a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a> -power in the kingdom of France. Here and there parts of these defences -are still standing, and one fragment in particular forms the foundations -of an old convent. Another remnant of the old fighting days is the Porte -Guillaume, one of the city gates, built when the march of the English -forced every French town to keep itself under bolt and bar. Two round -towers, embattled and machicolated, flank a low archway, and to complete -the mediæval effect, the ancient fosse still remains before the gate, -not grass-grown or choked with rubbish, but filled with a clear stream, -just as it might have been in old days.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_219_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_219_sml.jpg" width="550" height="378" -alt="CHARTRES FROM THE NORTH" -title="CHARTRES FROM THE NORTH" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">CHARTRES FROM THE NORTH</span> -</p> - -<p>Autricum of the Carnutes held an important position in Gaul, ranking -very near the great capital of the Senones. In pre-Christian times it -was a famous Druidic centre; but with the advance of Christianity, -Savinian and Potentian, the patron saints of Sens, extended their -mission to Chartres, converted the inhabitants, and built their first -church, according to tradition, upon a Druid grotto. Later on, the town -passed into the possession of a line of counts, who were a very powerful -factor in mediæval France. The first Theobald or Thibaut is said to have -purchased his domain from the sea-king Hasting, who had penetrated -beyond the coast and colonised the lands around the river Eure. His son -and successor,<a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a><a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a><a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a> Thibaut le Tricheur, lived in a state of constant war -with Normandy, and seems to have been regarded as a kind of evil -influence by the old Norman chroniclers, whose hero in Thibaut’s day was -naturally their own Richard the Fearless. Another of the line was the -famous Odo, whose ambition went beyond his own states of Chartres and -Blois, and aimed at kingship in Burgundy and even in Italy. Through the -greater part of his reign he carried on also the struggle with Normandy -which had raged so fiercely in Thibaut’s time, besides the standing war -with the Angevin line, represented by Fulk the Black. It was, as Freeman -says, the fact of this common enemy in the house of Chartres which first -brought Anjou and Normandy into direct contact and perhaps laid the -foundations of Anjou’s subsequent connection with England. Chartres, -like Nevers, was made a duchy under François I<sup>er</sup>; later it passed -into the Orléans family, whose nominal appanage it has remained ever -since, the eldest son bearing to this day the title of “Duc de -Chartres.” It is also interesting to notice that Henri de Navarre broke -the long succession of coronations at Rheims by being crowned King of -France in Chartres Cathedral, three years after the town had opened its -gates to his army in 1591. Some three hundred years later another enemy -appeared outside<a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a> the walls, and once again Chartres found itself in the -hands of a foreign power. Mr. Cecil Headlam, in his very interesting -“Story of Chartres,” gives a description of the Prussian occupation, -part of which may be quoted here as showing the foresight of the Mayor, -who in this terrible time, when the whole French nation seemed utterly -demoralised, thought rather of the safeguard of the city and its one -great monument, than of the doubtful and dearly-won glory of a -protracted defence.</p> - -<p><a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a>“It was on Friday, September 30, 1870, that the Prussian soldiers -appeared for the first time near Chartres. Three weeks later Châteaudun -fell, after a desperate and heroic defence, for which that picturesque -and ancient town paid the dear price of failure. Two days later the -enemy marched in force upon Chartres. The <i>tirailleurs</i> and <i>mobiles</i> -and troops of the National Guard, who endeavoured to defend the town, -after vain marching and counter-marching, with the same generous ardour -and utter ineffectiveness as had distinguished the movements of the -other armies before the disasters of Wissembourg, Wörth and Sedan, -returned exhausted. Without firing a shot they had been rendered -incapable of fighting. Fighting in any case would have been useless. It -was wisely decided to capitulate, and on the 21st the Mayor and Prefect -of the Department drove out to Morancez to save the city and Cathedral, -by surrendering them to General von Wittich, from the inevitable -destruction of which Châteaudun had given them a terrible example. What -they saw on their way of the French defence and the Prussian advance -convinced civilians and military men alike that it was impossible to -hope to defend Chartres.”</p> - -<p>At the head of the Rue St. Jean, where it leads into the Place du -Châtelet, one obtains the first and best view of the two beautiful -spires at the west end of the Cathedral. The southern tower, dating back -to the twelfth century and conceived in a style which harmonises with -the broad and massive design of the whole building, is an example of -what was contemplated as a finish to the other towers of the Cathedral. -The northern tower, built in 1507 by Jean le Texier, well deserves its -reputation as the most beautiful Gothic spire ever designed. “The one, -fashioned by the Byzantine chisel, sprang into complete being in the -heroic ages of faith in the days of war ... the other rose, after a long -peace, under the hands of the still Christian architects of the -Renaissance, when all dangers and difficulties had been surmounted.”</p> - -<p>On contemplating the plan on which Chartres Cathedral was built one is -struck with the enormous space which has been allotted to the choir. -Here<a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a> the new religious cult finds its earliest expression, greater -provisions are made for its ceremonials, larger spaces are given both in -choir and transepts for its gorgeous ritual than we find in Paris, -Soissons or Lâon. Bishops, priests, deacons, choristers and serving-men -needed a wider platform for the ministration of the sacred rites of the -Church, and especially to this end was the Cathedral planned out. It is -said that its construction was carried out with incredible rapidity in -the desire to meet the pressing requirements of the people, who demanded -that the Cathedral should be not only the house of prayer for the bishop -and his canons, but essentially the mother church of the humblest of her -worshippers.</p> - -<p>The prevalence of a style, more or less uniform, with its main -attributes harmonious and congruous, is the resultant of these forces -working together. The completion of the Cathedral was carried out about -1240, and in 1250 were added the two porches at the entrance to the -transepts. The sacristy was built in the thirteenth century, and a -century later the little chapel of Saint Piat was attached to the -eastern apse. The shortness of the nave is attributed to the desire to -utilise the foundations of the old crypt for the choir and not to extend -the building farther westward than the two<a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a><a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a><a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a> existing towers. Between -these two points, the walls of the crypt and the western towers, the -nave had to be constructed and without any possibility of further -extension.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_225_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_225_sml.jpg" width="550" height="369" -alt="CHARTRES" -title="CHARTRES" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">CHARTRES</span> -</p> - -<p>No less than nine spires were originally designed and their towers -actually commenced. What a magnificent effect would have been produced -had they been completed! Standing on the high ground of the city, -Chartres with its clustering pinnacles would have been one of the -wonders of Christendom. The magnificent glass of the thirteenth century -is so deep in tone that upon entering the building one is conscious of a -darkness that can almost be felt, so much at variance with the effect of -the interior of most large French Cathedrals.</p> - -<p>The two porches placed outside the transept doors are the subject of a -panegyric from the pen of Viollet-le-Duc. He considers them as the most -beautiful and harmonious additions ever made to an existing building, -and their architects proved themselves to be artists of the very first -rank. No more beautiful specimen of a portal of the thirteenth century -can elsewhere be found to exist; glorious and rejoicing in colour and in -gold, and of surpassing sculpture and full of impressive and solemn -statuary.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_229_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_229_sml.jpg" width="376" height="550" -alt="RUE DE LA PORTE GUILLAUME, CHARTRES" -title="RUE DE LA PORTE GUILLAUME, CHARTRES" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">RUE DE LA PORTE GUILLAUME, CHARTRES</span> -</p> - -<p>Near Chartres there are two small towns which<a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a> might well be taken in a -day’s excursion; both are connected with Chartres historically and both -have a certain interest of their own certainly not devoid of attraction -to one in search of antiquities. One is Châteaudun, whose fall during -the war of 1870 was, as has been quoted above, the signal for the -surrender of Chartres; the other is Vendôme, the township of the ancient -feudal county. From Chartres it is Châteaudun that lies first in our -road. It is a straight, neat little town—most of the streets cut one -another at right angles—and the smoke of the Franco-Prussian war still -seems to hover about the place; one of its chief memories, indeed, is -the great fight in October, 1870, when a bare thousand <i>franc-tireurs</i> -of the national guard kept the town for half a day against a Prussian -army of ten times their strength, and the quiet market-square—now -called the Place du 18 Octobre—was transformed into a battle-field. All -the heroism that the day called forth, however, could not save the town -from being sacked and burnt—the last of a long series of -conflagrations, lasting from the sixth to the nineteenth century, that -has won for the little town its cheerful, hopeful motto: “Extincta -revivisco.” Certainly Châteaudun has risen from the flames with a fresh -lease of its quiet life, but it has been completely modernised, and -except for a few narrow alleys sloping<a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a><a name="page_215" id="page_215"></a><a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a> down towards the river, which -would seem to have escaped the general devastation, there is little that -does not belong to to-day. This is, however, making an exception of the -Château overlooking the Loire; a great exception, since at present all -that there is to see in Châteaudun consists in this square pile on the -brow of the hill; the rest, whatever it may once have been, is only a -memory; and even the Château itself hardly seems a part of the town, -since it is not until we have left the little white-painted streets -behind that we realise its existence, and then it comes as a gigantic -surprise; a huge, square, turreted mass, on its platform of rock, -looking away over the rolling meadow lands, untroubled through all the -years of siege and conflagration. Thibaut le Tricheur, Count of -Champagne, built it in the tenth century; it was rebuilt in the twelfth -century, and again by its seigneur, the famous “Bastard of Orléans,” one -of the most devoted followers of Joan the Maid. Finally, under Louis -XII., François d’Orléans-Longueville applied himself to fresh -renovations, and built the splendid façade overhanging the Loire.</p> - -<p>Considering that the Duc de Vendôme has always been a title of some -importance in France since the early part of the sixteenth century, and -the Comtes de Vendôme a power in the feudal<a name="page_216" id="page_216"></a> world before that, one -might feel rather surprised not to find the town itself presenting a -more imposing aspect. Vendôme is a picturesque place, but it is more of -a long straggling village than anything else, and it is only the ivied -ruins on the cliff that take one back—with a stretch of imagination, it -must be confessed—to the days of feudalism. Vendôme was originally, it -is thought, a Gallic township under the name of Vindocinum; it was then -fortified by the Romans, evangelised by Saint Bienheuré, and finally -became the seat of a feudal count about the end of the tenth century. In -1030 was founded the abbey of La Trinité, whose church is one of the -first “monuments” of Vendôme. It dates from the thirteenth and fifteenth -centuries; the beautiful Transition façade is well worth notice, and so -is the belfry tower, separated from the church and tapering up to a tall -stone spire. Inside the church there are some fine choir stalls of the -fifteenth century, of which the carving of the <i>miséricordes</i> is very -interesting in its variety and quaintness of design.</p> - -<p>The Loire at Vendôme divides into several small streams, and in walking -through the town one appears continually to be crossing a succession of -bridges and coming upon fresh pictures of clear green water fringed by -low-roofed houses and dark <i>lavoirs</i> with their curtains of snowy linen. -Outside<a name="page_217" id="page_217"></a> the town the river winds smoothly away past the cool quiet of -the public gardens, to join its tributaries and cut its silver channels -through the distant water-meadows.</p> - -<p>“The route lay along the plateau until the heights were reached which -enclose the valley of the Loir; the road winds down to the river beside -hanging woods, red with autumn leaves not yet fallen, and crowned with a -ridge of firs. A corner is turned and Vendôme comes in sight, lying -beneath the shelter of the old ruined castle on the hill. As the -horsemen enter the town the people all come to the doors of their houses -and gaze with every sign of interested curiosity. There is an anxious -expression in their faces. They do not welcome, though they obey their -visitors with alacrity. They bring forth bread and meat and wine, and -lay the tables for breakfast, but good cheer they have none to -give.”—<i>The Times</i>: <a name="page_218" id="page_218"></a>“Prussian Occupation of Vendôme.”</p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Twelve" id="Chapter_Twelve"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_12.png" -width="175" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Twelve" -title="Chapter Twelve" -/><br /><br /> -<small>ORLÉANS, BOURGES, AND NEVERS</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_t-q.png" -width="70" -height="61" -alt="“T" -title="“T" -/></span>HE thought that the name of the city itself is most likely to call up -is that of the Maid who, born far away from Orléans, has taken its name -as a kind of surname.... We have got into a way of thinking ... as if -Orléans had its chief being as the city of the Maid.” Orléans certainly -does share with Rouen the chief honours of association with Joan of Arc, -the “Victrix Anglorum,” as she is described on a memorial tablet in the -Cathedral, and the town is equally full of monuments to her memory, -though the memory in this case is that of a great triumph, whereas at -Rouen it marks the last stage, captivity and death.</p> - -<p>Orléans was the key of central and southern France, and if the English -once got possession of it they would certain overrun all the land south -of the Loire; hence its importance to France as a stronghold. Joan set -out from Blois late in April,<a name="page_219" id="page_219"></a> 1429, in charge of a convoy of provisions -for the beleaguered city, and arrived opposite the town, on the left -bank of the Loire.</p> - -<p>From November to the end of April the English had lain before the town, -and, although the inhabitants were not actually starving, provisions -were very scanty, and the bringing in of fresh supplies was practically -an impossibility, since the usual means of approach, the bridge across -the Loire, was blocked by the enemy, who occupied the outstanding -fortress of Les Augustins at the bridge, and on the right bank. On the -Orléans bank the English had built several strong <i>bastilles</i>, guarding -the city and effectually preventing any communication by means of the -western highways. The weak spot was on the east side, where the -besiegers had one stronghold only, the fortress of Saint Loup; and from -this point Dunois, the general-in-chief, and La Hire, the leader of -Joan’s army, intended to effect an entrance; but the Maid herself, with -that love of directness which characterises her whole career, desired to -attack the English, not at their strongest, but at their weakest point. -Both wind and stream were against their ferrying over to Saint Loup; and -in the end Joan’s simple tenacity and childish belief in the counsel of -her “voices” carried the day. The army was sent back to Blois, there to -cross to the right bank and<a name="page_220" id="page_220"></a> attack Orléans from the west, and meanwhile -she herself, the wind having turned, crossed in a boat by night and -entered the town with La Hire and Dunois. She was hailed by the people -of Orléans as an angel of deliverance, and lodged in the house of the -treasurer Boucher, near the Porte Regnart at the north-west angle of the -city walls; and from this vantage point Joan watched the enemy’s -movements, appearing from time to time upon the ramparts and bidding -defiance to the English, who, as was perhaps natural, retorted by -showering insults upon her. On May 4 she rode out in full state to meet -her army which had arrived from Blois. Three days later the great fight -began. All this time the English troops had scarcely moved a finger to -hinder the French operations, but when the enemy crossed the river by a -bridge of boats and made a feint of attacking the fortress on the left -bank, retreating apparently in confusion, the English sallied forth -after them, thus provoking a real attack upon the bridge fort. During -the fray the girl-leader was wounded; never for a moment did she give -in, but stood in the fosse grasping the white banner—sword she would -not wield—and cheering on her companions; with the result that by -nightfall the position was gained, the English were driven out, and Joan -returned in triumph into Orléans by the bridge. The greater<a name="page_222" id="page_222"></a><a name="page_223" id="page_223"></a><a name="page_221" id="page_221"></a> part of -her victory was now accomplished. On the following day the French forces -marched outside the walls of the town to meet the English line; but -Talbot and his men had not reckoned with what they, in the superstition -of their time, believed to be “a force not of this world,” and the -morning light shone upon their helmets and spears in full retreat -towards the north. France was saved, and a clear field was left for -Charles the Dauphin—the gates of his kingdom were flung open wide, that -he might enter in and possess it.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_237_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_237_sml.jpg" width="550" height="374" -alt="ORLÉANS" -title="ORLÉANS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ORLÉANS</span> -</p> - -<p>But the greatness of Orléans belongs to an earlier day, before Joan -heard the voices in the Domrémy meadows, probably before Domrémy ever -existed. It was Attila the Hun who indirectly brought the town up the -ladder of fame. Aurelianum in the fifth century was a desirable -stronghold, and as such, Attila spied it afar from his Asiatic plains, -and set out to conquer, and, as one authority has it, to “vainly -besiege” it, though Freeman inclines to the opinion that “the business -of West Goth and Roman was, in the end, not to keep them (the Huns) out, -but to drive them out.” However that may be, Attila was eventually -forced to give up his project, and Aurelianum emerged from the struggle -glorious and triumphant, to become the seat and stronghold of kings, -and, until its<a name="page_224" id="page_224"></a> union with Paris in 613, the capital of a separate -kingdom. Since then it has been the scene of siege, martyrdom and -persecution, down to the days of the Franco-Prussian war, when it -finished an eventful history by a Prussian occupation in October, 1870, -a sequel to the battles of Patay and Bonbay.</p> - -<p>Orléans is beautifully placed on a hillside overlooking the Loire. With -this physical advantage, and its long list of historical associations, -one cannot help feeling that it might have done better for itself, and -have become more than just a quiet, unobtrusive and rather dull city, -with all its monuments easily attainable. The Cathedral is an example of -the last lingering phase of Gothic architecture, and was rebuilt, so we -are told—after its destruction by the Huguenots—during the interval -between 1600 and 1829. The building as a mass has great merit, for the -architects have made an effort to clothe it with dignity, and one feels -that the church itself is conceived in a spirit to make it, certainly at -a distance, not unworthy of the stronghold of Clovis and his successors.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_241_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_241_sml.jpg" width="371" height="550" -alt="THE HOUSE OF JACQUES CŒUR, BOURGES" -title="THE HOUSE OF JACQUES CŒUR, BOURGES" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE HOUSE OF JACQUES CŒUR, BOURGES</span> -</p> - -<p>The train which we took from Orléans to Bourges was slow enough to -enable us to look out, almost as easily as from a <i>voiture</i>, at the -richly wooded country. Here and there a small pyramidal church tower -peeps out from the trees, but, as a<a name="page_226" id="page_226"></a><a name="page_227" id="page_227"></a><a name="page_225" id="page_225"></a> rule, there is little sign of -life in this pleasant country, and even the fields and the gorse-covered -commons are bare of sheep and cattle. This <i>train-d’omnibus</i>, in -discharge of its functions as a mail train, distributed letter-bags at -every station. Here were waiting young girls acting as postmistresses, -many of whom had come from a considerable distance, having ridden on -bicycles, bare-headed, in the scorching sun, along dusty roads, to -deliver up their heavy loads and to enjoy a chat with the travelling -postman, who was evidently welcomed by them as bringing all the latest -bits of gossip along the line.</p> - -<p>About a mile away there is a very beautiful view of the town, and the -general effect is a grey one. Roofs and houses—the latter perhaps -originally built of yellow-white stone—have all weathered to a -beautiful grey, and there is an air of mediævalism about the place. -Bourges, indeed, like many other towns in France, goes back to early -days for its greatness, and belongs far more to the past than to the -present. The fifteenth century saw it at the height of its fame as a -king’s residence; Charles VII., perhaps finding the more northerly towns -too hot for him during the English occupation, took up his abode there -and became for the time being “King of Bourges”; and Louis XI. founded a -university in the town.<a name="page_228" id="page_228"></a></p> - -<p>Here was born the famous Bourdaloue, and Boucher, the painter of -Versailles before “le Déluge,” Boucher who was</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i4">“a Grasshopper, and painted—<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Rose-water Raphael—<i>en couleur de rose</i>,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">The crowned Caprice, whose sceptre, nowise sainted,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Swayed the light realms of ballets and bon-mots;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Ruled the dim boudoir’s <i>demi-jour</i>, or drove<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Pink-ribboned flocks through some pink-flowered grove,”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p class="nind">and who now, his Grasshopper days ended, lies buried beside his mother -in the Church of Saint Bonnet.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_245_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_245_sml.jpg" width="368" height="550" -alt="BOURGES" -title="BOURGES" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">BOURGES</span> -</p> - -<p>Perhaps the principal interest of old Bourges centres in the name of -Jacques Cœur, the merchant prince, “a Vanderbilt or a Rothschild of -the fifteenth century,” who in his days of prosperity built a great -house on the hill-side where his native town stands. Cœur, we are -told, founded the trade between France and the Levant; later he became -Master of the Mint in Paris, and one of the Royal Commissioners to the -Languedoc Parliament. He was three times sent on an embassy to foreign -powers, notably to Pope Nicholas V. Charles VII., weak, unstable, and -always in need of money, relied on him absolutely, but with the usual -characteristics of a weak master, was one of the first to desert and -despoil<a name="page_230" id="page_230"></a><a name="page_231" id="page_231"></a><a name="page_229" id="page_229"></a> him of his wealth when occasion offered. The beginning of the -end came through a disgraceful and apparently quite unfounded accusation -against Cœur at the time of the death of the famous Agnes Sorel, whom -he was accused of poisoning. Jacques was too prosperous not to have -enemies, and these were, as usual, prompt to use every opportunity -against him. The first steps taken, calumnies of all kind poured in to -defame the man whom France had once delighted to honour, and the rest of -his career is a strange mixture of exile, mysterious captivity, and -equally mysterious escape, honourable reception in Rome, and friendship -with the Pope; the last scene of all, perhaps the strangest and most -foreign to all idea of a peaceful, prosperous merchant—for here we see -him in command, not of a fleet of trading ships laden with merchandise, -but of vessels of war sent against the Turks by Pope Calixtus III. -Rumour has it that, far from dying in poverty and sorrow, Jacques -Cœur, at the end of his life, had acquired greater riches than when -at the zenith of his fame in France, but the fact remains that he died -in exile, with a cloud over his memory which was not cleared away until -many years after, when popular favour again smiled on his name, and he -became, what he remains to this day, the citizen-hero of Bourges.</p> - -<p>There is a very charming description—too long to<a name="page_232" id="page_232"></a> quote here—in Mr. -Henry James’ “Little Tour in France” of the house of Jacques Cœur; -and one point of interest attaching to it is that it is built upon the -old defences of the town, and at the back are many considerable remains -of solid Roman bastions.</p> - -<p>It is one of the most beautiful types of a fifteenth-century town-house -that can possibly be imagined—a veritable remnant of the ancient -prosperity of Bourges, of a time when such houses were no uncommon -feature in the streets—when men who had made their fame and fortune -loved to build for themselves a beautiful home in their native town, and -enrich it with every conceivable ornament. Modern <i>nouveaux riches</i> -indeed do the same, though perhaps not in their native place, where -their memory as butcher or baker might, in their eyes, tell against -them; but the difference between their “mansions” and the hotel of -Jacques Cœur is the difference between an age when the Renaissance -was in its early freshness and an age when it has suffered the -degradations of many modern horrors in the style that is popularly -designated “handsome.” No one looking upon the delicate sculptures, the -wonderful wood carving, the courtyard with its cloister, the lovely -porticos and galleries, can doubt the taste of the man who built and -lived in this <a name="page_233" id="page_233"></a>“maison pleine de mystères.”</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_249_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_249_sml.jpg" width="367" height="550" -alt="THE MUSÉE CUJAS, BOURGES" -title="THE MUSÉE CUJAS, BOURGES" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE MUSÉE CUJAS, BOURGES</span> -</p> - -<p><a name="page_234" id="page_234"></a><a name="page_235" id="page_235"></a></p> - -<p>The Cathedral of Bourges, which, as Freeman points out, is essentially -French, although at the head of the Aquitanian churches, is well seen in -approaching the town, where it rises above a base of grey tiles and warm -white walls—a long flank of choir and nave, unbroken by transepts. The -thrust of the heavy vaulting is stopped by a perfect forest of flying -buttresses, between whose walls are built chapels, either for chantries -or family monuments. From inside the town it is not much in evidence -until one ascends the Rue Royale, where one comes upon it quite -unexpectedly at the end of what Mr. Henry James calls a “short vague -lane,” somewhat in the same manner as one comes upon St. Paul’s bursting -into view at the top of Cheapside.</p> - -<p>The absence of transepts accounts naturally for the want of any central -tower or lantern, and as there are no heavy transept pillars supporting -the arches at the crossing, to intercept the view, the elevation of the -Host is visible to every worshipper, and the eye travels in one sweep -through nave and choir to the beautifully jewelled windows of rich old -glass, ranging from the twelfth to the seventeenth century. The east -terminal vaulting springs so low as to mask part of the side-lights of -the apse. This is also very noticeable in the east end of Sens -Cathedral, the beauty of whose windows is marred by the vaults<a name="page_236" id="page_236"></a> cutting -across the heads of the lights. At Bourges, however, the spandril or -cheek of the vault is pierced by a foliated light, showing a certain -amount of the window behind, and thus taking away the appearance of -depression in the low springing vaulting of the apse.</p> - -<p>It is easily recognised that in point of historical importance Nevers, -in comparison with some of its neighbours, dwindles almost into -insignificance, and to the traveller coming from Orléans and Bourges, -fresh from the scene of the triumphs of Joan of Domrémy, and from the -seats of French kings when France was at the height of her power, there -may be a slight sense of disappointment at not finding the same -historical “lions” at Nevers. History, though not passing over the town -entirely, has only touched it with a gentle hand, and Nevers, though -possessed of plenty of material for making itself a name, has never -really risen very far above being the capital of the Nivernais. It -existed in Roman days under the Celtic name of Noviodunum; Cæsar made -use of it as a military depôt in his Gallic campaign, and thought the -town was of sufficient importance to be a storehouse for the imperial -treasure; its countship dates from the tenth century, and it became the -seat of a bishop, although later than many of the Auvergne cities. Yet -the counts of Nevers never made<a name="page_238" id="page_238"></a><a name="page_239" id="page_239"></a><a name="page_237" id="page_237"></a> a stir in the world, as did Odo and -Thibaut of Chartres, or the Fulks and Geoffreys of Angers, and nowhere -on its ecclesiastical roll do we find a name like Hilary of Poitiers or -Martin of Tours. Despite these early deficiencies, however, Nevers has -much to interest the casual visitor, and there are four principal -attractions—the Cathedral of St. Cyr, the Romanesque church of St. -Etienne, the ducal palace (now the Palais de Justice), and the Porte du -Croux.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_253_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_253_sml.jpg" width="361" height="550" -alt="THE HÔTEL-DE-VILLE, NEVERS" -title="THE HÔTEL-DE-VILLE, NEVERS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE HÔTEL-DE-VILLE, NEVERS</span> -</p> - -<p>The early church of St. Etienne, begun in 1063, is a fine example of a -Romanesque building. It is also a very severe example, with a nave of -round-headed pier arches, double-arcaded triforium and small clerestory -lights. The bays of the nave are modified in the choir by the pier -arches being stilted, by a small triple-lighted triforium, and by more -importance being given to the clerestory windows. There are, also, -monolithic columns and hollow-necked capitals, which are unusual in -France. The church is covered by a barrel vault, the crossing of the -transepts being crowned by a dome. Mr. Spiers, in his book on -“Architecture East and West,” says: <a name="page_240" id="page_240"></a>“The French builders of the South of -France have always had the credit of being the originators of the barrel -vault, with its stone or tile roof, absolutely incombustible, lying -direct on the vault; to them also, I contend now, we owe the -development of the dome, with its pendentives set out in a manner -peculiar to themselves, and in no way corresponding to those found in -the East.”</p> - -<p>The Cathedral of St. Cyr is the only church in France—with the -exception of Besançon—which possesses an apse at both the east and west -ends. St. Gall in Switzerland, Mittelzall, Laack and many other German -churches show this remarkable plan of a western tribune or paradise. In -some instances it was used as a tomb-house, with entrance from without -by means of a staircase. In the old basilicas, however, the tribune was -not unfrequently at the west end, so that the officiating priest could -at the same time face the east and also his congregation. The crypt at -the west end, with its fine Romanesque capitals, is very interesting, -and dates from the early part of the eleventh century, being about -contemporary with that of the Cathedral of Auxerre. The original church, -with its two transept arches of the same date, was lengthened eastwards -in the thirteenth century, and later on had the further addition made of -a choir with an apsidal termination; the chancel and nave are not -separated by transepts, but the two merge quietly into each other by -simple contact.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_257_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_257_sml.jpg" width="363" height="550" -alt="PORTE DU CROUX, NEVERS" -title="PORTE DU CROUX, NEVERS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">PORTE DU CROUX, NEVERS</span> -</p> - -<p>One afternoon, while contemplating this strange church, our attention -was diverted from arch and<a name="page_242" id="page_242"></a><a name="page_243" id="page_243"></a><a name="page_241" id="page_241"></a> apse by the rustle of a small bridal -procession entering by a side door and being received by a priest who -was waiting at an altar in one of the chapels. After some formalities of -examining the certificate of civil registry, the ceremony began; and it -was very interesting in its brevity and friendliness. In the English -church the priest addresses the principals, with a kind of austere -familiarity, by their Christian names, be they princes or paupers. But -here such a liberty is rendered impossible by the natural social -politeness of the French, and the contracting parties are reminded of -their marriage obligations under the courteous appellations of Monsieur -and Mademoiselle.</p> - -<p>The ducal palace is quite close to the Cathedral. “We find,” Freeman -says, “the two great central objects, State and Church, sitting -becomingly side by side.” The ducal days of Nevers date only from the -end of the sixteenth century, when François I<sup>er</sup>, with his usual love -of display, bestowed a peerage upon the Nivernais. Before this its -feudal overlords went by the more mediæval title of count, and the -palace (built a century before the count became a duke) has reared -itself upon the foundation of their ancient stronghold. The fourth -attraction of Nevers, the high square gateway tower known as the Porte -du Croux, may also be regarded as a relic of feudal<a name="page_244" id="page_244"></a> days, seeing that -it dates from 1398, and was evidently part of the town’s defences. It is -a noble specimen of mediæval defence, a tall gateway tower, protected, -like the Porte Guillaume at Chartres, by its ancient fosse—long lancet -openings running up above a low round archway and two pointed turrets -flanking the hatchet-shaped central roof, with the treacherous line of -machicolation below. In the middle of the sixteenth century Nevers -passed to an Italian master, one of the Gonzagas of Mantua, from whom, a -hundred years later, Mazarin bought it back again, and left it at his -death to the Mancini family, who held it until the Revolution.</p> - -<p>Most French towns nowadays fill their shops with a display of local -pottery, good, bad and indifferent; the industry of Nevers, however, is -an old-established one, dating from the occupation of these very -Gonzagas, who came from a land where the faïence industry, as well as -glass-blowing, was fully developed as a fine art, and who founded in -their domain a school of artists which should teach their secrets to -France. The industry has remained in the town ever since, and some of -the modern work is very charming, with its curious trade-sign, the -little green arabesque knot or <i>nœud vert</i>, which some fanciful -spirit designed for the sign of Nevers.<a name="page_245" id="page_245"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Thirteen" id="Chapter_Thirteen"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_13.png" -width="174" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Thirteen" -title="Chapter Thirteen" -/><br /><br /> -<small>MOULINS, LIMOGES, AND PÉRIGUEUX</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_f.png" -width="60" -height="62" -alt="F" -title="F" -/></span>ROM Nevers an expedition to Moulins is quite practicable, and the -traveller <i>en route</i> to Limoges may think it worth his while to pay a -visit to this town, which stands as a monument to the fallen house of -Bourbon. In the fourteenth century the dukes of Bourbon made Moulins -their residence, and stayed there until the desertion of the Constable -to the cause of Charles V., when the city was annexed by the French -king, François I<sup>er</sup>, in an access of righteous indignation. The “Tour -de l’Horloge,” which is the main feature of the town, and looks more -like a Dutch belfry than a French design, formed part of the old château -belonging to this same Constable; and it may be supposed that not only -were his lands confiscated, but his castle destroyed, by way of -punishment for his alliance with the English king and the German -emperor.</p> - -<p>The story of this Constable de Bourbon is an interesting one. He -belonged to the Montpensier<a name="page_246" id="page_246"></a> branch of the Bourbon family, and in 1505 -married Suzanne de Beaujeu, heiress of the reigning line, so that the -title of duke and the rich Bourbon estates passed into his possession, -and therewith Charles became one of the most brilliant figures in an age -of brilliancy and magnificence. His handsome person and military talents -had even in early youth gained him a place amongst the foremost -gentlemen of France; but his marriage brought him such an access of -wealth and influence that even Louis XII. trembled for the safety of his -throne, and refused to risk any increase in his popularity by giving him -command of the Italian army. In 1515, however, when the Duc d’Angoulême -came to the throne as François I<sup>er</sup>, Bourbon was made Constable of -France, and for a time seemed to have attained to all that Fortune could -give him. He was the close friend of the king, and in an era of lavish -display that came with the first François, and did not wholly disappear -until it was swept away by the hand of the Revolution, no favours seemed -too great, no honours too high, for the brilliant and much-envied -favourite. To such a height did Charles de Bourbon reach, that one can, -indeed, hardly wonder at his fall, which was bound to come sooner or -later, and when it did come was all the greater, all the swifter, from -the very might of his power at court. The mischief arose in the first -place<a name="page_247" id="page_247"></a> through the jealousy of the king’s mother—reports and scandals -were in the air, and François was not slow to take note of them—and of -the growing distrust of his favourite at court. Quarrels arose between -King and Constable. Presently the evil reports took definite shape, and -grew into the grossest of insults; and as soon as it was seen that -Bourbon had lost the King’s favour all tongues were loosened against -him. Added to these troubles, he was engaged in a lawsuit with the -mother of François, the Duchess d’Angoulême, who on the death of his -wife Suzanne claimed the heirship to all his estates and fortune. As may -be imagined, on the principle of striking a fallen man, the case went -against him, and the great duke found himself friendless and penniless, -with large sums owing to him from the State, but with little hope of -payment. Men in those days were not over-chivalrous, and the idea of -clinging still to an ungrateful, ungenerous sovereign who had cast him -off like an old glove did not commend itself to a nature like that of -Charles de Montpensier. He resolved, since France would have none of -him, to try his fortune with Germany, and accordingly joined the cause -of Charles V., to whom for a time he gave his best service, and then, -finding the imperial promises, too, like the proverbial pie-crust, -determined to carve out honours for himself and<a name="page_248" id="page_248"></a> find a kingdom in -Italy. He marched to Rome with a division under his command, and made a -bold attack upon the city walls, but an arrow from the ramparts, shot, -so one story goes, by Benvenuto Cellini, the famous sculptor and court -musician to the Pope, put an end to his ambition, and the Constable died -in harness outside the walls of Rome at the very outset of his gallant -attempt to cast off the yoke of kings and make his fortune by his own -sword.</p> - -<p>Of Bourbon’s château there remains only the tower bearing the curious -name of the Mal-Coiffée, and a Renaissance pavilion—an appendage found -in the castle of every great noble of this time.</p> - -<p>In the eleventh century Moulins was one of the more southerly fortresses -to hold out against William of Normandy. It had been commanded by a -certain Wimund, who surrendered it to Henry, the French king. As an -important outpost it was garrisoned strongly and put under the command -of Guy of Geoffrey, Count of Gascony, presently to become William VIII. -of Aquitaine. The Norman duke, however, was advancing upon Arques, which -was within an ace of surrender from hunger, and with little difficulty -he obtained terms from the garrison. News of this defeat soon flew to -Moulins, and its commander seems to have been instantly seized with an -access either of<a name="page_250" id="page_250"></a><a name="page_251" id="page_251"></a><a name="page_249" id="page_249"></a> panic or of prejudice—the two bore a curious -relation in those days—and without giving the Normans time so much as -to come within sight of the town, he withdrew his garrison and left -Moulins with all speed.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_265_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_265_sml.jpg" width="364" height="550" -alt="MOULINS" -title="MOULINS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">MOULINS</span> -</p> - -<p>The Cathedral at Moulins has a curious misfit of nave and chancel. The -former is of the thirteenth century, with a high clerestory and rather -low triforium arches; the latter is Flamboyant, with a flat wall -termination to the east end, and seems to have been built without any -regard to the pre-existing nave; at any rate, the main piers do not -meet, and a small bay of no particular style is introduced literally as -a stop-gap.</p> - -<p>An excellent hotel—the “Central”—makes Limoges a convenient -stopping-place on the southern road, irrespective of its attractions to -those interested in faïence and enamel work; but there are plenty of -other interests within the town, and Limoges may, indeed, speak for -itself in this respect, by reason of its standing on a hill, overlooking -a river, and containing, in the old quarter at least, ancient houses and -crooked streets enough to satisfy any craving for the picturesque. The -town slopes up a hill rising from the Vienne, and really divides into -two distinct parts, <i>ville</i> and <i>cité</i>; the <i>ville</i> is the newer town -straggling up the<a name="page_252" id="page_252"></a> slope, while the <i>cité</i>, the original camping-ground -of the Lemovices, occupies the quarter near the river. So distinct were -these two in the Middle Ages that we even read of war between them as -between two separate states, the <i>ville</i> led by the abbot of Saint -Martial, the <i>cité</i> by the bishop. The great church of the river quarter -is the Cathedral of Saint Etienne, built, so tradition has it, upon the -remains of a former church erected by Saint Martial, and dating from -1273-1327, with a few later alterations. The west end terminates in the -substructure of an old Romanesque campanile, resting on pillars. “The -lowest story,” says Freeman, “after a fashion rare but not unique, stood -open. Four large columns with their round arches supported a kind of -cupola.” Under the choir is a crypt, dating from the eleventh century, -and thus at each end of the later church is a relic of an older time.</p> - -<p>Limoges had formerly been favourable to the English, but since the dukes -of Berri and Bourbon had laid siege to the town, and had been aided by -Bertrand du Guesclin, the inhabitants, including the bishop and the -governor, gave up their somewhat wavering allegiance and turned to -France. On hearing of this defection the Prince of Wales flew into a -great passion and <a name="page_253" id="page_253"></a>“swore by the soul of his father, which he had never -perjured, that he would not attend to anything before he had punished -Limoges; and that he would make the inhabitants pay dearly for their -treachery.” The price they had to give was the safety of their city. -Edward marched upon Limoges from Cognac with a large force; but the new -masters had garrisoned the town so strongly that it was impossible to -take it by assault. He therefore resolved upon another and a more -terrible way. He undermined the fortifications, and set fire to the -mine, so that a great breach was made. Froissart describes the -inhabitants of the town as very repentant of their treachery, but adds -poignantly that their penitence did little good, now that they were no -longer the masters; and certainly it was not rewarded by mercy. The -English troops rushed into the breach and poured down the narrow -streets, massacring right and left, plundering and burning, sparing -neither women nor children; and when the Prince at last turned back to -Cognac, he left behind him ruin and desolation where, a few days before, -had been strength and prosperity. During this terrible time the Church -of Saint Etienne happily escaped from damage, although all the rest of -the old town—“old” even in 1370—seems to have been destroyed. An -interesting reminder of more modern history remains in the name of one -of the streets.<a name="page_254" id="page_254"></a> The Cathedral is connected with the Place Jourdan by -the “Rue du 71<sup>ième</sup> Mobiles”; and this street is so named in -recognition of the valour shown by this regiment in the field, and in -the memory of those killed during the Prussian war. It is an assurance -that their heroism and endurance in a hopeless struggle are not -forgotten, and that an equal devotion to their country will be shown, -should the need arise, by succeeding generations of their -fellow-citizens. Monuments are not readily subscribed for, nor are -places where they may be erected easily found. A permanent testimony to -the gallant services of a regiment might be borne by calling a street -after its name. London accorded a great welcome to its volunteers at the -termination of the Boer war. Is there any street or place called after -the name of the City Imperial Volunteers?</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_271_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_271_sml.jpg" width="550" height="367" -alt="LIMOGES" -title="LIMOGES" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">LIMOGES</span> -</p> - -<p>In a cathedral city like Limoges, where the church itself has a good -deal of interest and the town is not devoid of attraction, one is not -readily inclined to place its industrial interests very high on the list -of things to be seen; yet the fact remains that in this particular place -the chief industry is closely bound up with the town’s history. The -Limoges school of enamel workers had attained celebrity as early as the -twelfth century, when the <i>champ-levé</i>, or engraving process, was in -vogue, the ground-work of<a name="page_256" id="page_256"></a><a name="page_257" id="page_257"></a><a name="page_255" id="page_255"></a> the plates consisting of graven copper and -the cavities filled in with enamel. This kind of work may well be seen -in Westminster Abbey upon the tomb of Aymer de Valence, Earl of -Pembroke. In the fourteenth century France borrowed from Italy the art -of transparent enamelling, which the artists at Limoges developed into -enamel-painting, and this branch was carried on at Limoges for upwards -of two centuries, until it fell into decay under Louis XIV. and gave -place to the modern miniature style.</p> - -<p>Under François I<sup>er</sup> this art of enamel-painting attained to a high -degree of perfection. The sixteenth-century taste inclined always -towards the brilliant and magnificent, and the same love of display and -richness which showed both in dress and in architecture found also -expression in the art of enamelling. One of the most famous artists of -this school came from Limoges, whence he was known as Léonard Limousin. -His work became the pattern of excellence after which all lesser artists -strove. <a name="page_258" id="page_258"></a>“While some of the works were executed in brilliant colours, -most of them were in monochrome. The background was generally dark, -either black or deep purple, and the design was painted <i>en grisaille</i>, -relieved, in the case of figure subjects, by delicate carnation. The -effect was occasionally heightened by appropriate touches of gold, and -in many of the coloured enamels brilliancy was obtained by the use of -silver foil, or paillon, placed beneath a transparent enamel.”</p> - -<p>At Périgueux we seem to have left Northern France in the far distance -and to have taken the first definite step into the Midi. The -architectural pilgrim as he wanders southward is conscious of the -existence of two distinct styles, possessing features dissimilar in -construction and design; in one case he finds barrel-vaulted churches, -in another large churches roofed with pointed domes, whose origin it is -difficult to determine. Of the latter type the church of Saint Front is -a notable instance. It rises above the old quarter, which occupies the -centre of the town, the modern portion, quite distinct from the rest, as -was the case at Limoges, sloping up the hill, and the remnant of the old -Roman city fronting the river. The original Vesunna of the Petrocorii -stood on the left bank of the Isle; the Roman Vesunna crossed to the -other side, and is now represented by the ruins of an amphitheatre, -dating from the third century, and some second-century baths. The old -Château Barrière is also built on Roman fortifications, and two of the -Roman towers still remain, besides the “Tour de Vésone,” which was -probably part of a pagan temple.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_275_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_275_sml.jpg" width="550" height="367" -alt="PÉRIGUEUX FROM THE RIVER" -title="PÉRIGUEUX FROM THE RIVER" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">PÉRIGUEUX FROM THE RIVER</span> -</p> - -<p>It is a curious fact that here the ancient remains<a name="page_260" id="page_260"></a><a name="page_261" id="page_261"></a><a name="page_259" id="page_259"></a> of the Roman city -should be so much more prominent than is usually the case. At Bourges we -saw the house of Jacques Cœur built upon a Roman foundation, and many -other places keep, in part at least, their Roman walls; but Périgueux -has Roman remains which absorb quite half the interest aroused by the -city on the Isle—the other half being devoted to the church. From the -site of the Gallic Vesunna, on the left side of the river, the Tour de -Vésone is the foremost object, so old that, as Freeman says, it looks -almost modern. “It is a singular fact that, while a mediæval building -can scarcely ever be taken for anything modern, buildings of earlier -date often may. The primeval walls of Alatri might at a little distance -be taken for a modern prison, and this huge round, it must be confessed, -has to some not undiscerning eyes suggested the thought of a modern -gasworks.” Then the partly mediæval Château Barrière attracts notice, -dating at its latest from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and by -its name recalling one of the noblest families of mediæval Périgord.</p> - -<p>With the rise of the abbey of Saint Front, a new town arose also, and -the old quarter shrank up within itself, remaining still the abode of -the nobles and gentlemen and the clergy of Saint Etienne, but yielding -the real precedence to the vigorous new <i>puy</i><a name="page_262" id="page_262"></a> higher up the hill. -“Here, as in some measure at Limoges, the tables are turned. The <i>ville</i> -stands apart on the hill, with the air of the original <i>cité</i>, while the -real <i>cité</i> abides below, putting on somewhat the look of a suburb.” -Even Saint Etienne, the old Cathedral-church of La Cité, has, owing to -its partially ruined condition, practically renounced its importance -both in intrinsic position and in external appearance. The great tower, -which once stood at the west end, has gone entirely; the cupolas which -crown each bay show the relation to those at Saint Front, and in place -of the eleventh-century apse stands a flat wall, terminating in a choir -of a century later.</p> - -<p>The church of St. Front is “the only domed church in France with the -Greek cross for its plan.” The original building is said to have been -consecrated in 1047 by the Archbishop of Bourges and burnt down in a -great fire in 1120. It was not until after this date that the five-domed -church and the tower on the west side were constructed. <a name="page_264" id="page_264"></a><a name="page_265" id="page_265"></a><a name="page_263" id="page_263"></a>“By this time -the Church of Saint Mark at Venice was completed, as far as its main -structure was concerned, and already the panelling of the walls with -marble and the decoration of its vaults and arches with mosaic had made -some progress. It was one of the wonders of Europe, and the idea of -copying its plan and general design would appeal at once to a race of -builders who for more than a century, as I shall prove later on, had -been building domed churches throughout Aquitaine, who were perfectly -acquainted with their own methods of building domes and pendentives, and -therefore would not be obliged to trust to foreign workmen to execute -them.”—M<small>R</small>. R. P<small>HENÉ</small> S<small>PIERS</small>.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_279_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_279_sml.jpg" width="550" height="366" -alt="ST. FRONT, PÉRIGUEUX" -title="ST. FRONT, PÉRIGUEUX" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ST. FRONT, PÉRIGUEUX</span> -</p> - -<p>It would be quite out of our province to follow out Mr. Spiers’ -arguments in support of this theory, as it would lead us into the -entangled byways of a discourse on methods of “bedding” and centring -arches and pendentives. Suffice it to say that he clearly points out the -difference which exists between French and Byzantine domes, capitals and -voussoirs and the prevalence of the Aquitaine style, and on this -evidence maintains that French, and not Greek or Venetian architects, -built the abbey church of Saint Front. This conclusion is also supported -by Viollet-le-Duc, who expresses his opinion that Saint Front was -undoubtedly built by a Frenchman who had studied either the actual -Church of Saint Mark at Venice or who had had opportunities of seeing -the design of the Venetian architects. Its general conception, it is -true, was Venetian and quasi-Oriental, but its construction and details -do not recall in any way the decorative sculpture or method of building<a name="page_266" id="page_266"></a> -which obtained at St. Mark’s at Venice. As to the ornament, it belongs -to the late Romanesque style.</p> - -<p>Saint Front must indeed have appeared a strange erection and unique in -conception amongst its sister churches, and no doubt exercised a great -influence over the builders of churches north of the Garonne in the -eleventh and twelfth centuries. The infusion of Oriental art into this -part of the country is explained by the distinguished French -archæologist, M. Félix de Verheilh, as partly due to the presence of -Venetian colonies established at Limoges. He says that the commerce of -the Levant was carried into France and into England along trade routes -existing between Marseilles or Narbonne and La Rochelle or Mantes. The -landing of Eastern produce at these ports on the Mediterranean and its -carriage overland to the north-western seaboard of France was rendered -necessary to protect it from the Spanish and Arab pirates who infested -the coasts of Spain and Africa, and also to avoid the risk of storms and -heavy seas of the Straits of Gibraltar.<a name="page_267" id="page_267"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Fourteen" id="Chapter_Fourteen"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_14.png" -width="196" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Fourteen" -title="Chapter Fourteen" -/><br /><br /> -<small>ANGOULÊME AND POITIERS</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_a.png" -width="60" -height="62" -alt="A" -title="A" -/></span>NGOULÊME has at a distance more the appearance of an Italian than of a -French town. The heavy red pantiles, the campanile and dome of the -Cathedral, the little terraces sloping up the hill, all recall the -southern towns; but the river with its fringing poplars finally -proclaims the city’s nationality. There is nothing of especial interest -to be seen in the town itself. Angoulême—Ecolisma of the Gauls—has of -course had its history; it suffered pillage by Visigoth and Norman, was -annexed by England, re-taken by France, occupied again by the English, -and finally made over to its rightful sovereign in 1369.</p> - -<p>During the Hundred Years’ War Angoulême was in the possession of the -English, and under the governorship of Sir John Norwich surrendered to -France. The Duke of Normandy lay, we are told, “for a very considerable -time” before the town, and the inhabitants waited daily for the Earl of<a name="page_268" id="page_268"></a> -Derby, who was to relieve them, but who showed no signs of approach. The -French made a raid upon the English cattle under the guidance of the -seneschal of Beaucaire and captured not merely the beasts, who—strange -laxity—were pasturing outside the walls of the town, but several of the -English who rushed out to recover their possessions. Finally the -governor began to lose hope; Derby was nowhere within reach, the French -gave no signs of withdrawal, and worse than all, the townsfolk began to -murmur and to declare as far as they dared for the enemy. Norwich and -his immediate followers found themselves in some danger; but by a clever -stratagem they escaped from surrendering themselves to Normandy. A truce -was called, and under cover of this the governor and his friends sallied -quietly forth from the gates, passed through the entire French army, -without hurt, and took the road to Aiguillon before the enemy had -realised what they were about. Meanwhile the disaffected within the town -readily gave themselves up to the Duke, and received his mercy.</p> - -<p>Here, however, as at Nevers, an up-and-down history has left little mark -upon the town, and Freeman’s criticism is no more than the truth: -“Except we went on purpose for the view, we should hardly go to -Angoulême at all.” Saint Pierre at Angoulême<a name="page_269" id="page_269"></a> is another example of the -domed church that we left at Périgueux; but while the cupolas carry on -the same half-Byzantine idea as prevails in Saint Front, the tower at -the north transept brings in a train of thought which is distinctly -Italian; moreover, at Périgueux all five cupolas are well seen from the -outside, whereas here only one appears, to balance, or rather to -contrast with, the north tower. Once inside the church, however, the -other domes appear, roofing over the nave, which is without aisles, -after the manner of the Angevin churches. In its original form the -Cathedral of Saint Pierre was begun early in the twelfth century—about -1120—but it has been twice restored, once in 1654 and once, in the -middle of the last century, by M. Abadie.</p> - -<p>It was planned simply with a nave roofed by four cupolas and a choir -with four radiating apsidal chapels. Later on in the century the love of -building places of worship larger and more suited to the growing desire -for an enriched ceremonial and elaborate ritual resulted in the addition -of transepts surmounted by towers, which gave to the Cathedral of Saint -Pierre at Angoulême the distinction of being one of the first, if not -the first, of domed churches built on the plan of a Latin cross. Of the -two towers only one, the northern tower, exists to this day, the<a name="page_270" id="page_270"></a> -southern transept being roofed by a flat conical dome. Certain further -additions were made about the same time, such as the western façade with -its sculptured portal. The black lines of the ashlar work, as if ruled -with a lead pencil, detract very much from the impressiveness of the -interior, as they give undue emphasis to the horizontal joints and -arrest the eye in its first natural flight from floor to vault.</p> - -<p>Saint Pierre at Poitiers is a church of a very different description. -Certain characteristics it has which connect it with the Angevin style, -but unlike most of the Angevin churches, it has aisles throughout. From -the outside the appearance is that of a single mass, long and low, and -very wide, for the aisles are nearly as broad as the nave; as at -Bourges, there is no central tower at the crossing; but then at Bourges -we have a great French church, a mighty mass rising sheer up from the -ground, unbroken by any transept; here at Poitiers there are transepts, -but the line of their towers comes below the line of the roof, and the -effect given is one of length without height. Height is also wanting in -the two unfinished and unequal west towers, and the east end literally -falls flat, by reason of its bare terminal wall; the apse, to which one -grows so accustomed in a French church, is seen only from the interior. -It is oblong in plan, showing, as M. Viollet-le-Duc points<a name="page_272" id="page_272"></a><a name="page_273" id="page_273"></a><a name="page_271" id="page_271"></a> out, no -sign either of choir or sanctuary. The transepts are more like side -chapels with altars on their eastern walls. There is no sign of northern -influence, and the church is in many of its features unique and without -imitators. Certain details of construction bring it into line with St. -Maurice at Angers; it is an ordinary example of the churches of Poitou, -with their three naves of equal height and Byzantine cupolas.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_287_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_287_sml.jpg" width="550" height="365" -alt="ANGOULÊME" -title="ANGOULÊME" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ANGOULÊME</span> -</p> - -<p>To the south of the Cathedral lies what alone would make Poitiers worth -a visit, without the other churches which call for notice—the little -Temple Saint-Jean, said to be the oldest baptistery in France, and -dating probably from the fourth century. Once inside, we can realise the -position of the officiating priest and the place occupied by the rooms -where the converts disrobed themselves and whence they were conducted to -the central basin, fed by a continual stream of water, where stood the -bishop, the typical representative of the first Baptist. Freeman says: -“It is the one monument of the earliest Christian times which lived on, -so to speak, in its own person, and is not simply represented by a later -building on the same site. It is the truest monument of Hilary.”</p> - -<p>The name of Poitiers churches really is legion, but there are two more -which should not be passed over<a name="page_274" id="page_274"></a>—first, Notre-Dame-la-Grande, a -beautiful Romanesque church standing in the market-place, with a long -barrel-vault roof, unbroken by transepts, and terminated by towers -ornamented with “fish-scale” pattern; next the church of Sainte -Radégonde, the queen-saint of the sixth century, wife to the first -Chlothar. She lived among the nuns of her own foundation of the Sainte -Croix, and lies buried in the crypt of her church, which contains also a -marble statue, erected indeed to her memory, but in the likeness of -another queen who had few pretensions to saintliness—Anne of Austria, -mother of Louis XIV.</p> - -<p>Fortunatus also became a monk of Poitiers, that he might at least have -the satisfaction of living near this queen, whom he worshipped.</p> - -<p>The nuns of Sainte Croix went to England and founded there a sisterhood -on the Green Croft near Cambridge, and this priory remained until the -end of the fifteenth century, when the foundation was suppressed by -Bishop Alcock, and became part of the corporation of Jesus College.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_291_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_291_sml.jpg" width="550" height="367" -alt="POITIERS" -title="POITIERS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">POITIERS</span> -</p> - -<p>It is with a certain feeling of apology toward tradition and childish -days that one leaves to the very last the mention of the Black Prince’s -great fight. Not until we have reached fairly mature years do we realise -that Poitiers has a cathedral and a baptistery and many churches; but -there are<a name="page_276" id="page_276"></a><a name="page_277" id="page_277"></a><a name="page_275" id="page_275"></a> very few of us who do not associate with the earliest days -of history books the name of the “Battle of Poitiers, 1356.” More -properly it is the Battle of Maupertuis, and Freeman indeed denies its -right to “come into the immediate story of the city.”</p> - -<p>A short account may not be out of place here, however, since the battle, -whether in or out of Poitiers, does, nevertheless, stand out as a -landmark in the long struggle between English and French. Having stormed -and taken the Castle of Pomerantin, Prince Edward marched downwards -through Anjou and Touraine; and from the scarcity of fodder on the way -he began to conclude that the French king could not be far off. Arrived -at a village near Chauvigny, on the Vienne, he engaged in a skirmish -with some of the enemy, and learned that John’s army had marched forward -towards Poitiers; therefore, forbidding any further engagement, he -pushed on with all possible speed, and came up with the French some -leagues from the town, on the plains of Maupertuis. The French king -himself was just about to enter Poitiers, but hearing that the English -had come up and were attacking his rear-guard, he turned back into the -fields and there encamped his forces. Meanwhile the English entrenched -themselves in a well-guarded position between hedges and vineyards, and -waited there until the morning, when<a name="page_278" id="page_278"></a> John’s army rode out into the -plain. “Then might be seen all the nobility of France, richly dressed -out in brilliant armour, with banners and pennons gallantly displayed; -for all the flower of the French nobility were there; no knight or -squire, for fear of dishonour, dared remain at home.” At the last moment -an attempt at mediation was made by the Cardinal de Périgord; but as the -French king would listen to no terms save unconditional surrender, which -the English prince refused, his labour was in vain; and the following -day the armies drew up in line of battle. <a name="page_279" id="page_279"></a>“When the Prince of Wales saw, -from the departure of the Cardinal without being able to obtain any -honourable terms, that a battle was inevitable, and that the King of -France held both him and his army in great contempt, he thus addressed -himself to them: ‘Now, my gallant fellows, what though we be a small -company as in regard to the puissance of our enemy, let us not be cast -down therefore, for victory lieth not in the multitude of people, but -where God will send it; if it fortune that the journey be ours, we shall -be the most honoured people of all the world; and if we die in our right -quarrel, I have the king, my father, and brethren, and also ye have good -friends and kinsmen; these shall avenge us. Therefore, for God’s sake, I -require you to do your devoirs this day, for if God be pleased and -Saint George, this day ye shall see me a good knight.’” Then the battle -began in earnest, the English shouting “Saint George for Guienne!” The -French answering with “Montjoie Saint Denis!” Froissart gives a very -long and detailed account of the fight in all its part, with lists of -the nobles and knights who were killed and wounded, and in many cases -stories of their several adventures—none of which have place here. It -will be enough to say with the old chronicler himself, that, in spite of -the odds against the Black Prince, “it often happens that fortune in -love and war turns out more favourable and wonderful than could have -been hoped for or expected. To say the truth, this battle which was -fought near Poitiers, in the Plains of Beauvois and Maupertuis, was very -bloody and perilous; many gallant deeds of arms were performed that were -never known, and the combatants on each side suffered much.” The rest is -known to every one, the taking of King John of France, the gallant work -of the archers, and the commendation of the Prince by his father, who -had watched the fight from afar.</p> - -<p>Even without the battle the story of Poitiers is a sufficiently varied -one, and connected in a great measure with the story of England, if it -be remembered that Eleanor, wife of our Henry II., was also<a name="page_280" id="page_280"></a> Countess of -Poitou and brought it to England as part of her dowry; and in English -hands it remained until Philip Augustus saw fit to confiscate all our -French territory in 1204. After the peace of Brétigny Poitou passed to -England once more, only to be surrendered to Bertrand du Guesclin in the -course of the next ten years. Here at Poitiers Charles VII. was -proclaimed King of France; and, in contrast, it is likewise interesting -to note that here also was held a court of inquiry upon the -misdemeanours of Joan of Arc, by whose aid Charles was not only -proclaimed but crowned King. After this the English prestige in France -dwindled to nothing, and therefore the joint history stops at this -point, and the history of Poitou and Poitiers stands for France alone.<a name="page_281" id="page_281"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Fifteen" id="Chapter_Fifteen"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_15.png" -width="188" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Fifteen" -title="Chapter Fifteen" -/><br /><br /> -<small>LA ROCHELLE AND BORDEAUX</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_l.png" -width="60" -height="63" -alt="L" -title="L" -/></span>A Rochelle calls to mind two things principally: first, the great -resistance of the Huguenots in the sixteenth century, and then the siege -and the expeditions under Buckingham in the early days of Charles I. -These two events are really part of the same struggle for supremacy -between Calvinist and Romanist, only divided by a period of quiescence -under the rule of Henri de Navarre, who, having professed both faiths in -his day, probably knew how to keep the two parties at peace. Before the -religious wars La Rochelle was known as a flourishing and peaceful -seaport town; but no sooner had Condé and Coligny shown their faces -there in 1568 as leaders of the Huguenot faction, than a spirit of -warfare, provocative as well as defensive, seemed to pervade the town, -and even on the high seas the cruisers of La Rochelle were a terror to -the Romanist, since in the cause of the true faith no Huguenot stopped -at<a name="page_282" id="page_282"></a> piracy and plunder. From this first struggle La Rochelle emerged -with flying colours, but in the days of Richelieu and Buckingham it was -less successful, and traces of its surrender exist to-day in the mole, -cutting off the outer harbour, which Richelieu laid down to prevent the -English fleet from gaining further entrance to the port.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_299_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_299_sml.jpg" width="550" height="320" -alt="ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR, LA ROCHELLE" -title="ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR, LA ROCHELLE" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR, LA ROCHELLE</span> -</p> - -<p>The first attack on Buckingham’s part was made in the summer of 1627. A -war with France, impending only in 1625, but swift to take definite -shape, was among the inconvenient legacies bequeathed by James I. to his -son. With the utmost difficulty a forced loan was obtained from -Parliament in order to meet the war expenses, and the Duke of Buckingham -was put in command of the fleet which sailed from Portsmouth in June to -the relief of the Huguenots whom Richelieu was besieging in La Rochelle. -This task was not an easy one. Before gaining the harbour the fleet must -pass the fort of Saint Martin on the island of Ré. This island had been -strongly garrisoned by Richelieu, but the English squadron lay between -the fort and the mainland, cutting off all possibility of relief; and -after being blockaded for nearly two months the French commander -signified to Buckingham his willingness to surrender the next morning. -The duke was in the highest spirits when the welcome news arrived, and -lay down to rest that<a name="page_284" id="page_284"></a><a name="page_285" id="page_285"></a><a name="page_283" id="page_283"></a> night with the joyful certainly of carrying all -before him, driving the Cardinal from before the port and entering La -Rochelle in triumph. But the morning broke on a very different picture. -During the night an easterly gale had sprung up and had blown a fleet of -French provision boats over to Ré, through the very midst of the English -ships; and once more Saint Martin’s prepared for defence. Nothing -daunted, Buckingham sent to England for fresh troops, and if the supply -had depended upon the king he might still have gained his victory; but -the Parliament, now a growing power in England, and a power whose growth -was making itself felt, overruled the royal pleasure, and found here the -long-wished for opportunity of crushing out the war, of which the -country was heartily tired, by refusing to grant further supplies. -Probably the fact that Buckingham was no favourite with the people also -helped to turn the scale against him. At any rate a French force came up -before any word was sent from England, and the duke was obliged to -withdraw from La Rochelle with considerable losses. The sequel is well -known. In the following year Charles prorogued his troublesome -Parliament, and once more the favourite set off for Portsmouth, never to -reach France, since the dagger of John Felton put an end to his -ambitions and avenged, so said the<a name="page_286" id="page_286"></a> English people, his country’s -wrongs. Thus La Rochelle was left entirely to the tender mercies of -Richelieu. The Huguenot power was utterly broken by the year’s siege -which followed, and La Rochelle found itself despoiled of the prestige -which it enjoyed as the stronghold of the Protestant faith.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_303_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_303_sml.jpg" width="550" height="375" -alt="THE HARBOUR OF LA ROCHELLE" -title="THE HARBOUR OF LA ROCHELLE" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE HARBOUR OF LA ROCHELLE</span> -</p> - -<p>La Rochelle of to-day is perhaps little known to the casual traveller. -Inland France has so many attractions that most travellers never get so -far as the sea-coast; great churches and great rivers draw them -elsewhere, and if they want sea breezes there is always Trouville or -Etretat ready to hand. Nevertheless, La Rochelle is one of the most -beautiful of sea-ports in France; and this is no faint praise, for all -towns of this kind are bound to have a peculiar charm of their own—that -kind of charm which belongs to a harbour, and the coming and going of -ships, and the open sea beyond. To this the town adds certain -attractions of its own, among which are the beautiful colours of the -boat-sails, and the old grey forts guarding the harbour on either side. -These ancient sentinel towers are relics of the prosperity of La -Rochelle, and date back to a day before Buckingham sailed up to the -port, before the name of Huguenot had ever been heard in France. On the -left hand the Tour Saint-Nicolas, built at the end of the fourteenth -cen<a name="page_288" id="page_288"></a><a name="page_289" id="page_289"></a><a name="page_287" id="page_287"></a>tury, raises four round crenellated turrets above the harbour; on -the other side stands the Tour de la Chaîne, a grim, solid-looking round -fortress; and farther on still may be seen the stone <i>flèche</i> of the -Tour de la Lanterne, looking from a distance like the spire of a church. -And the mention of churches brings us naturally to the Cathedral, which, -built in the middle of the eighteenth century, has so very little to say -for itself that one cannot help feeling it to be a poor set-off to the -sea-board of the town; though perhaps it might in any case be useless to -look for beauty of this kind in a town whose inhabitants ranked the -adorning of churches as one of the deadly sins of Rome. This cathedral -was, it is true, built long after La Rochelle had ceased to be a -Huguenot stronghold; but when we remember that the beauty of any former -church would have fallen a victim to the fanatic’s hammer, we can -forgive the architect, and cease to mourn for what might have been. The -Cathedral of La Rochelle is not a thing of beauty, but at any rate it -has not displaced anything that might have pleased us better.</p> - -<p>From La Rochelle to Bordeaux the road runs by heavy-leafed plantations -of every kind of tree, notably acacias, whose great size is particularly -apparent to an English eye. Then, as the Bordelais comes nearer, we run -down to the smooth, peaceful <a name="page_290" id="page_290"></a>Charente, winding quietly through its -meadow lands, not unlike the upper reaches of the Thames, and yet very -unlike in one respect, since the water is completely deserted, and even -in the height of summer few pleasure boats disturb its smooth surface. -Boating as an amusement <i>per se</i> has very little place in the programme -of a French country gentleman, though bathing and fishing are both -included in it; and the same thing is noticeable nearer Paris, on the -Marne, where a pair-oar gig, if ever it got there, would part its -timbers through sheer neglect, and break up in a few months.</p> - -<p>Bordeaux itself is worthy of its reputation, and is certainly, strictly -speaking, a “handsome” city, with a waterway almost as grand as the -Thames at London, spanned by a beautiful bridge of red-brick and stone, -built in 1822, which might well serve as a model for some of our London -bridges. It is a pleasant place enough when once the fact of its being a -large and modern city is accepted; and although it has not the romance -of the inland hill-towns nor the picturesque situation of La Rochelle, -it has always been a city of note, ever since the Gauls came down to the -river and called their settlement Burdigala. For three centuries it -belonged to England; the same Countess Eleanor, of whom we heard at -Poitiers, brought it to her English husband, Henry II., and<a name="page_291" id="page_291"></a> for some -reason it does not seem to have been included in the general -confiscation of English territory under Philip Augustus, so it remained -an English town and shared in English victories and defeats until -Charles VII. was crowned, and the English retired by degrees to their -own land. Bordeaux was also the birthplace of poor, weak, well-meaning -Richard II.; and his father, the victor of Poitiers, held his court in -the town for some time. Here he held, too, his conference upon the -affairs of Castile.</p> - -<p>Don Pedro was at that time engaged in a struggle for the Castilian -throne with his brother, who was not the lawful heir. Neither prince -seems to have been blameless in his conduct, and Edward declared that he -only upheld the claim of Pedro on account of his lawful birth, and not -from any individual deserts; but this declaration apparently failed to -satisfy the rest of the English and Gascons within Bordeaux, and it was -finally decided to summon a council, composed of all the barons in -Aquitaine, “when Don Pedro might lay before them his situation, and his -means of satisfying them, should the prince undertake to conduct him -back to his own country, and to do all in his power to replace him upon -his throne.” The conference resulted in a decision in favour of Pedro, -and by order of the<a name="page_292" id="page_292"></a> English king a certain number of knights and -men-at-arms were sent from Bordeaux to escort the claimant back to Spain -and to help him to regain his own, all expenses being paid by Castile—a -frugal method of rendering aid!</p> - -<p>The Cathedral is attributed to the eleventh and twelfth centuries, and -as it now stands consists of a large nave, without aisles, which were -swept away for purposes of roof construction, as at Angers and in -Notre-Dame-de-la-Coûture at Le Mans. According to Mr. Bond, an early -tower was built in 550, which was noticed by Fortunatus. In plan the -building shows the influence of the well-known church of the Cordeliers -at Toulouse. “Its western portion is a vast nave without aisles, sixty -feet wide internally and nearly two hundred feet in length. Its -foundations show that, like that at Angoulême, it was originally roofed -by three great domes; but being rebuilt in the thirteenth century, it is -now covered by an intersecting vault ... and an immense array of flying -buttresses to support its thrust, all which might have been dispensed -with had the architects retained the original simple and more beautiful -form of roof.”</p> - -<p>Within easy distance of Bordeaux is Libourne, a little town upon the -Dordogne, which, though now overshadowed by the great port of the -Garonne, was<a name="page_293" id="page_293"></a> in the Middle Ages of almost equal importance in the -wine-growing country, and had a special interest as being one of the -<i>villes bastides</i> found in several places in the south of France, -especially in Guyenne. These really owe their origin to England, for -they were founded by Edward I. during his French wars as refuges for -those unable to take an active part in the struggle.</p> - -<p>Mr. Barker, in his “Two Summers in Guyenne,” gives a very interesting -description of these towns, noticing particularly the straight lines of -their streets. “In contrast to the typical mediæval town that grew up -slowly around some abbey or at the foot of some strong castle that -protected it, and in the building of which, if any method was observed, -it was that of making the streets as crooked as possible, to assist the -defenders in stopping the inward rush of an enemy, the streets of the -<i>bastide</i> were all drawn at right angles to each other.” The <i>bastides</i> -were built merely for shelter, not, as was the case with other towns, -for defence as well, though in the lawless days of the thirteenth -century it was sometimes necessary even here to put up a wall, palisade -and moat. Libourne has a remnant of such fortification in a quaint old -round Tour de l’Horloge with machicolations and a pointed roof. The term -<i>bastide</i> was also applied to a single work of defence which,<a name="page_294" id="page_294"></a> although -isolated, formed part of a continuous system of fortification. A single -house outside the walls of a town was also called a <i>bastide</i>.</p> - -<p>Passing out from Libourne, we reach the very heart of this wine-growing -country—a true country of the south it seems in summer, with the -endless stretches of vineyards—row after row of green, twisting, -climbing wreaths round their stiff, straight poles, under a blazing -southern sky, and every now and then a single hill rising suddenly out -of the plain, whilst the river slips quietly away in the distance to the -sea. On, or rather in, one of these hills the hermit Émilion fixed his -cave-dwelling, far back in the legendary years of history; and -now—strange contrast!—the town founded by this ascetic, abstemious -saint owes its fame to the purple juice of the grape, and sends forth -from its slopes not water from his dripping well, but good red wine to -gladden the heart of man. A visitor to Saint-Émilion in early summer -will find a curious greenness over everything—not only in the freshness -of the vineyards. When evening falls the very labourers rise from their -task and move home through the dusk like so many green spectres—though -from no other cause than from their constant watering of the vines with -sulphur-water to kill off the devouring insects.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_311_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_311_sml.jpg" width="550" height="317" -alt="BORDEAUX" -title="BORDEAUX" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">BORDEAUX</span> -</p> - -<p>Irrespective of wine-growers, Saint-Émilion has<a name="page_296" id="page_296"></a><a name="page_297" id="page_297"></a><a name="page_295" id="page_295"></a> many things to be -seen on its crescent-shaped hill. There is the wonderful church, carved -out of the cliff-face, now in ruins, but possessing store enough of -massive square piers and round-headed arches to bear witness to its -ancient grandeur; and a separate Gothic tower and spire of the twelfth -century points a long tapering finger above the narrow creeper-grown -streets and low, crowded roofs on the hill-side. The church to which the -tower really belongs is not this curious monument carved from the rock, -but the collegiate church farther up the hill, now used as a parish -church. Other monuments there are besides—the icy-cold, moss-grown -vault known as the “Grotte de Saint-Émilion,” where superstitious -maidens drop pins into the well to find out when they shall be married; -the ruined convent of the Cordeliers, with its grass-grown courts and -ivy-covered cloister arcades, and the great walnut tree whose branches -shade an empty, silent place where once the brothers chanted and the -novices worked at their simple tasks; and the cave-dwellings, where -seven of the Girondists hid from the wrath of the Terror, sheltered and -fed by a kindly couple who paid later for their good nature by the -guillotine, after four of the seven refugees had been captured and -executed.</p> - -<p>The ancient Saint-Émilion—the town to which<a name="page_298" id="page_298"></a> most of these buildings -carry us back—is in reality an old English fortress, growing from the -oppidum of the Gauls to the fortified stronghold which passed to Edward -I. and continued, with a few interruptions, to enjoy the privileges of a -royal borough of England until the fifteenth century.<a name="page_299" id="page_299"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Sixteen" id="Chapter_Sixteen"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_16.png" -width="182" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Sixteen" -title="Chapter Sixteen" -/><br /><br /> -<small>SENS, AUXERRE, AND TROYES</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_t.png" -width="60" -height="61" -alt="T" -title="T" -/></span>HE Senones, who settled on the banks of the river Yonne and founded the -city of Agenticum, which we know to-day as Sens, were one of the most -influential people in Gaul—even the Parisii were considered of less -account—and did not submit to the Roman yoke until the final defeat of -Vercingetorix. The change of dominion, however, in no way detracted from -the importance of their capital city, but rather enhanced it, since the -conquerors made the town metropolis of the fourth Lugdunensis, and were -at some pains to rebuild it in a fashion befitting its position. Six -great highways met within its walls; arches, aqueducts and amphitheatres -sprang up all over the city, and Agenticum henceforth became a -prosperous and powerful stronghold, well able to withstand the -incursions of later days, of which there were many, on the part of the -Franks and the Saracens and, finally, of the Normans.<a name="page_300" id="page_300"></a></p> - -<p>Christianity was introduced by the martyr-saints Savinian and Potentian, -who, as at Chartres, built the first church in the city, thus laying, so -tradition has it, the foundations of the Cathedral which was to come in -after times. The town then became an archbishopric, and later, like most -towns of any standing, a hereditary countship, the proximity of the two -overlords, spiritual and temporal, leading not infrequently to -disastrous results, especially when in the twelfth century a communal -power sprang up and contributed a third factor to the contest.</p> - -<p>In 1234 Louis IX. married Marguerite de Provence in the Cathedral of -Saint Etienne, and on his return from the Holy Land, five years later, -with the precious relics purchased from the Emperor of Constantinople, -the reliquary and its contents were paraded through the streets in a -palanquin, borne by the king and his brother, Robert d’Artois, who -walked bare-headed and bare-footed at the head of the procession, -casting aside all their royal state—which, indeed, poor Louis would -have gladly left for ever—to set an example of reverent homage to the -people of Sens. Thomas à Becket lived for some months in the Abbey of -Sainte-Colombe by the river-side, founded by one of the Chlothars in the -seventh century in memory of the young virgin saint who suffered -martyrdom under the rule of Aurelian.<a name="page_301" id="page_301"></a></p> - -<p>Sens, on its quiet, graceful little river, “bending ... link after link -through a never-ending rustle of poplar-trees,” is a picturesque place, -like most towns which have left their importance behind them in the -Middle Ages, and have come down to modern days unmodernised. Standing on -the far bank of the Yonne, looking across the river reaches, one gets a -very delightful picture of the town, almost like that of some of our -English Cathedral cities—the shining river, the green water-meadows, -and above them the deeper green of the grand old trees, clustering round -the great church, whose high grey tower rises from their midst, watching -the town, meadows and river by day and by night, when men wake and when -they take their rest, as it has watched ever since William the architect -built up its stones and brought their pattern across the water that the -church of Britain’s first Christian city might share the glories of her -sister in France.</p> - -<p>Sens is not very well known to travellers, although there is no -cathedral in the whole breadth of France which ought to be dearer in the -eyes of every Englishman, on account of its being in all probability the -parent of the choir of Canterbury. Hither Becket is said to have fled, -and to have sought sanctuary at the altar of St. Thomas against the -persecution<a name="page_302" id="page_302"></a> of Henry II. Viollet-le-Duc describes St. Etienne as a -cathedral unique both in plan and style of architecture—a mixture of -arches both round and pointed, such as we find in the choir of -Canterbury, showing how much it is under the influence of the Burgundy -school. This is proved by the great similarity of plan between the other -Burgundy cathedrals, and it is surmised that after the eleventh century -Autun, Langres, Auxerre and Sens possessed certain dispositions of plan -peculiar to themselves, which were adopted in the Eastern portions of -Canterbury. There appears to be no precise information as to the early -foundation of the Cathedral of Sens, and the architect who designed it -is unknown. The west front exhibits a number of fine sculptures relating -to the lives of St. Stephen, St. John, and other saints; in the central -portion, which dates from the end of the twelfth century, religion has -given place to the arts and sciences, which are represented by twelve -sculptured figures, now in a mutilated condition—Grammar, Medicine (a -figure holding plants), Rhetoric (giving a discourse), Painting -(represented drawing on a tablet placed on the knee), Astronomy, Music, -Philosophy, &c. Under each figure is sculptured an animal or monster; in -one case a lion is devouring a child, an elephant carrying a tower.... -The <a name="page_304" id="page_304"></a><a name="page_305" id="page_305"></a><a name="page_303" id="page_303"></a>“encyclopædic spirit” was dominant in the twelfth century, and in -the object lesson of these stones an ignorant and unlettered crowd could -find its elementary instruction.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_319_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_319_sml.jpg" width="372" height="550" -alt="SENS" -title="SENS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">SENS</span> -</p> - -<p>Auxerre, which is about twelve miles from the main line between Paris -and Dijon, may be considered as an outpost lying on the threshold of the -Morvan country. Many of the towns in this district, notably Semur and -Avallon, are built on large granite bosses protruding through the -oolitic formation. Auxerre possesses churches as fine as those of any -other city of its size in France. As one enters the town by the lower of -the two bridges which cross the Yonne, the three churches—St. Pierre, -St. Etienne and St. Germain—suddenly burst into view. On the left is -St. Pierre, with its picturesque tower and forecourt entered through a -Renaissance gateway; the Cathedral of St. Etienne with its single tower, -high nave, and girdle of flying buttresses, stands on the highest ground -in the centre of the group; and further eastwards the abbey church of -St. Germain, detached from its spire, spreads out along the beautiful -river front of the Yonne.</p> - -<p><a name="page_306" id="page_306"></a>“Towards the middle of the tenth century the Cathedral of St. Etienne -was complete in its main outline; what remained was the building of the -great tower, and all that various labour of final decoration which it -would take more than one generation to accomplish. Certain -circumstances, however, not wholly explained, led to a somewhat rapid -finishing, as it were out of hand, yet with a marvellous fulness at once -and grace. Of the result much has perished, or been transferred -elsewhere; a portion is still visible in sumptuous relics, in stained -glass windows, and, above all, in the reliefs which adorn the west -portals, very delicately carved in a fine firm stone from Tounerre, of -which time has only browned the surface and which, for early mastery in -art, may be compared to the contemporary work in Italy.”—W<small>ALTER</small> P<small>ATER</small>, -“Imaginary Portraits.”</p> - -<p>The interior of the Cathedral offers one very striking piece of -architectural planning: the Lady Chapel and <i>chevet</i> are joined together -by two slender shafts, an arrangement by which the three features, -ambulatory, <i>chevet</i> and Lady Chapel, are united in one broad design. -This conception gives a very beautiful and harmonious effect. The -eleventh-century spire of St. Germain, which appears quite detached from -the body of the church, is one of the very early stone spires which -exist now in France. It springs from a fairly broad base, and has a -slight entasis or swelling to avoid the appearance of any midway -gathering-in of the outline of the spire. The crypt of the eleventh -century is “deep sunk into the ground and very dark,” having aisles, and -is in plan<a name="page_308" id="page_308"></a><a name="page_309" id="page_309"></a><a name="page_307" id="page_307"></a> practically a small edition of the choir of Canterbury, -following the true Burgundian type, the details of its capitals -resembling those of the old crypt of Nevers. Mr. Bond, referring to the -crypt, or <i>confessio</i> of St. Germain, remarks that the burial chamber of -a martyr was called a <i>confessio</i>: “where lay one who had confessed and -given witness to his faith by his blood.” The term “Martyrdom,” applied -to the north transept at Canterbury, is an exact equivalent to -<i>confessio</i>.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_323_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_323_sml.jpg" width="550" height="398" -alt="ST. GERMAIN, AUXERRE" -title="ST. GERMAIN, AUXERRE" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ST. GERMAIN, AUXERRE</span> -</p> - -<p>Saint Germain, the missionary bishop, lived here, and died at Ravenna; -but his body was brought back from Italy to his birthplace by five pious -sisters, one of whom, canonised under the name of Sainte Maxime, lies -buried in the abbey church founded by the great saint; where also, in -the beautiful crypt, is the tomb of Germain himself, surrounded by a -whole company of dead saints, among them the valiant Saint Loup, who, -when bishop of Auxerre, drove out the Huns under Attila, and saved his -city from destruction. One interesting point in connection with this -abbey is that it is the mother-foundation of Selby in Yorkshire. There -is a long and mythical legend on the subject, teeming of course with -miracles, from which may be gathered that one Bernard of Auxerre -wandered from his native town and settled down—why is not very -clear—upon the banks of the river<a name="page_310" id="page_310"></a> Ouse, where he led the life of a -hermit. The reports of his sanctity attracted to his cell many persons -in the neighbourhood, influential men amongst them; and he attained such -fame that his hermit’s hut became the nucleus of a large monastery. -However much of this is true, and however much legend, enough remains to -show that the monks at Selby did come from Auxerre.</p> - -<p>In addition to these three churches, it would be impossible to overlook -St. Eusèbe, a church standing in the middle of the town, especially if -it be the traveller’s lot to stay at the excellent Hôtel de l’Épée, and -to occupy a room giving on its court-yard. There cats, cooks, and -chauffeurs combine to enliven the watches of the night, and when the -morning dawns, and the “web of night undone,” the jackdaws and the bells -of St. Eusèbe announce that sleep is no longer befitting, and he -realises that a restless night is the price to be cheerfully paid if he -desires, as an architectural enthusiast, to do his duty by Auxerre.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_327_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_327_sml.jpg" width="550" height="343" -alt="THE BRIDGE AND CATHEDRAL, AUXERRE" -title="THE BRIDGE AND CATHEDRAL, AUXERRE" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE BRIDGE AND CATHEDRAL, AUXERRE</span> -</p> - -<p>Troyes, the ancient capital of Champagne, was formerly another “city of -counts”—the residence of a long line of Thibauts, almost as famed in -their day as the Fulks at Angers, and one of whom, called “le -Chansonnier,” might be compared to the minstrel King René. These counts -of Champagne kept up<a name="page_312" id="page_312"></a><a name="page_313" id="page_313"></a><a name="page_311" id="page_311"></a> their state at Troyes until the fourteenth -century, when the countship became merged in the French crown. The city -likewise made of itself a landmark during the Hundred Years’ War. After -the battle of Agincourt it fell into the hands of the allied Burgundians -and English; and the name of Troyes now recalls the triumph, as brief as -it was splendid, of the English arms in France. By this time Henry V. -had set his foot upon the steps of the French throne, and the famous -treaty signed here in 1420 secured the succession to him and his heirs, -and, to complete the alliance, gave him the hand of the French princess, -Catherine, the betrothal taking place in the Cathedral, and the marriage -itself in the church of Saint Jean. Here is a contemporary account of -the proceedings by the chronicler Monstrelet: “At this period Henry, -King of England, accompanied by his two brothers, the Dukes of Clarence -and of Gloucester, the Earls of Huntington, Warwick, and Kyme, and many -of the great lords of England, with about sixteen hundred combatants, -the greater part of whom were archers, set out from Rouen, came to -Pontoise, and then to Saint Denis. He crossed the bridge at Charenton -and left part of his army to guard it, and thence advanced by Provins to -Troyes in Champagne. The Duke of Burgundy and several of the nobility, -to show him honour and respect, came<a name="page_314" id="page_314"></a> out to meet him, and conducted him -to the hotel, where he was lodged with his princes, and his army was -quartered in the adjacent villages.... When all relating to the peace -had been concluded, King Henry, according to the custom of France, -affianced the Lady Catherine. On the morrow of Trinity Day the King of -England espoused her in the parish church near to which he was lodged; -great pomp and magnificence were displayed by him and his princes as if -he were at that moment king of all the world.”</p> - -<p>Ten years later, however, Joan of Arc captured the town on her march -through France, and put an end to the English dominion. In 1525 Troyes -was attacked by the Emperor Charles V., who burnt at least half the -town, with the result that many of the old churches had to be rebuilt, -and date therefore from the sixteenth century, with remains of earlier -work here and there. Soon after the fire the city was overswept by the -great wave of religious controversy which was to break over France in -the latter years of the century, and since most of the inhabitants -declared for the Huguenot cause, their fortunes and ultimate fate were -none of the happiest. In 1562 the whole Huguenot population was driven -out and compelled to fall back for safety upon the town of -Bar-sur-Seine; and another decade saw a repetition<a name="page_315" id="page_315"></a> of the terrible day -of Saint Bartholomew, when the Romanists in Troyes followed the ghastly -example of their white-sleeved brothers in Paris, and massacred every -Huguenot prisoner within the walls.</p> - -<p>Historic interest at the present day divides the repute of Troyes with -something less romantic—the system of weights and measures which we -call “Troy weight,” and which remains as a memorial of the mercantile -fame of ancient Troyes. The fairs of Troyes date back to 1230, when -Count Thibaut IV. granted to his subjects a municipal charter, and laid -the foundations of a commercial repute which could vie with that of any -town in France. From this time onwards Troyes occupied an important -position in the commercial world, and became the resort of wealthy -merchants from Italy and weavers with bales of rich stuffs from -Flanders, to say nothing of the goldsmiths, silversmiths, and workers in -precious stones who must have brought Troy weight into fame. Neither the -Hundred Years’ War nor the wars of the League appear to have affected -the town’s commerce to any great extent, but the Revocation of the Edict -of Nantes, by forcing the Protestant population, which included the -majority of the ablest citizens, to emigrate, struck a blow at the -industry of Troyes from which it never recovered; and now-a-<a name="page_316" id="page_316"></a>days both -population and commerce have fallen to a state so low that it might -almost be called one of decay, compared with the brilliant busy life of -the mediæval town. What a scene they must have afforded at fair-time, -these narrow-built streets and small close squares, narrower and closer -than ever we can picture them to-day, but alive with movement, laughter, -above all with colour—such colour as your sober work-a-day crowd can -never aspire to in these times!</p> - -<p>Picturesque and lively as a French market of to-day undoubtedly is, with -the red and green, russet and pearl-colour of its vegetables, the white -caps of its women, the gay blues and crimsons of the umbrellas guarding -the stalls, the laughter and chatter of the buyers, sellers, and idlers, -it has nothing to compare with the wonderful colour-mass and movement of -a mediæval crowd, above all in such a place as this, the fame of whose -fairs might well have attracted buyers from all parts of Europe. -Stately, bearded Italian merchants—men like Antonio of Venice with -argosies on every sea—in furred cap and gold chain, dark-faced, -keen-eyed Jews, young nobles, exquisite in silk and velvet, wandering -minstrels fantastically arrayed, dancing-girls like bright-hued -butterflies, all the good citizens of Troyes in their gayest holiday -attire, and the inevi<a name="page_318" id="page_318"></a><a name="page_319" id="page_319"></a><a name="page_317" id="page_317"></a>table jester in his motley, skimming in and out -of the crowd, shaking his cap and bells in every face—the many-coloured -banners of the town guilds streaming in the breeze above their heads, -and the summer sunshine flooding the whole scene, giving added light to -every street-corner, added brilliancy to every hue. The Troyes of to-day -is a picturesque town enough, with many beautiful timber-framed houses; -but the light and life of the town went out with the departure of the -fairs, and beyond its churches Troyes now has little to distinguish it -from the hundreds of quondam-mediæval towns scattered through the length -and breadth of France.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_333_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_333_sml.jpg" width="371" height="550" -alt="A STREET IN TROYES" -title="A STREET IN TROYES" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A STREET IN TROYES</span> -</p> - -<p>On our architectural pilgrimage through the town the Cathedral naturally -claimed our first attention; but we had not got much further than -admiration of the splendour of the stained glass, and a short analysis -of the beauty of the interior, when a remorseless sacristan informed us -that the Cathedral was about to close for two hours. Driven outside, the -contemplation of the splendid Flamboyant west portal reminded us of what -we have referred to elsewhere—that these deep-set porches in the French -cathedrals are considered as lineal descendants of the ancient narthex. -Troyes, Lâon, Bourges and many other churches lead one to an attempt to -follow out the evolution of these great porches. In the ancient<a name="page_320" id="page_320"></a> -basilican churches the narthex was the first section of the building—an -ante-temple, long and narrow, in front of the nave. In the primitive -Church it was especially allotted to the monks and the women, and used -for certain offices, such as rogations, supplications, and night -watches; it was further destined as a place for catechumens and -penitents, who were permitted to assist at Divine Service outside the -Temple. Heretics and schismatics might also here attend and listen to -the reading of the Scriptures, this privilege being accorded them in the -hope of their ultimate conversion; and corpses were placed in the -narthex during the performance of the funeral rites. In the Middle Ages -the denomination narthex was given to closed porches of churches, and -ceased to be any longer applicable to a portion of a religious edifice -lying within the walls. It was ultimately replaced by the word <i>porch</i>. -These porches were both open and closed and formed a kind of vestibule.</p> - -<p>The baptism of children and not of adults rendered it unnecessary to -provide for the preparation of converts before being introduced into the -Church. There were no more catechumens undergoing their time of -probation, and in consequence the spacious vestibule to which they had -hitherto been relegated disappeared as an essential portion of a large -church,<a name="page_321" id="page_321"></a> and was replaced by a porch which was either open or closed, -and occupied a position in front of the nave similar to that in which -its predecessor, the narthex, had stood. These porches being reserved -for the faithful remained, <i>qua</i> porches, as very important annexes to -the churches, and formed large vestibules, often closed, which ran along -the outside of the western wall of a church, having sometimes the -appearance of a cloister, as at Toury, which was built in 1230.</p> - -<p>Under the porches before the main entrances of many ancient cathedrals -bishops, emperors and honoured citizens were often buried, as the -ecclesiastical law in the primitive Church did not allow people to be -buried inside the walls of the sacred building. Many important services -were held under these porches; prayers for the dead were offered up, -ablutions performed by the faithful before entering the church, relics -and images were exposed, and litanies chanted. Later it became -absolutely necessary to keep them strictly closed on account of the -abuse of the shelter of the porch by the erection of market stalls and -booths on fair-days under the shadow of the church, and the crowd of -buyers and sellers making the air ring with their noisy bargainings.</p> - -<p>A further development was to make the porch a kind of arcaded -<i>avant-porte</i> surmounted by a gable<a name="page_322" id="page_322"></a> with sculptured features. These -decorated canopies were by degrees thrown back into the main wall, -became merged into the mouldings of the doorway, and were finally lost -as a separate feature in the highly ornamented and deeply splayed -portal.</p> - -<p>Fortunately the ecclesiastical interest of Troyes is not confined to one -corner, and the churches of Saint Urbain and the Madeleine lie in one’s -path to the market-place along the very picturesque streets of -sixteenth-and seventeenth-century houses, which offer every conceivable -variation of roof and gable.</p> - -<p>The beautiful details of the unfinished church of Saint Urbain may well -have won for itself the reputation of equalling if not of surpassing -anything of its kind either in France or Germany; and although it is -still in the hands of the restorer, there is now no scaffolding to -prevent one looking in admiration at the graceful choir and transepts. -The detached <i>pignons</i> above the chancel window spring from the -buttresses clear of the wall, and throw a deep shadow over the upper -portion of the windows. This shadow gives an appearance of weight and -stability to the building, which is certainly required as an assurance -against the result of too daring construction.</p> - -<p>In the Madeleine, which is not far from Saint Urbain, is a notable -rood-screen, full of luxuriant<a name="page_323" id="page_323"></a> tracery and sculpture of a late -Flamboyant period. It attracts attention, not because it fulfils any -ceremonial requirements or forms any part of an architectural effect in -the interior of the church, but rather on account of its singular -appearance of being slung between two pillars.<a name="page_324" id="page_324"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Seventeen" id="Chapter_Seventeen"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_17.png" -width="203" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Seventeen" -title="Chapter Seventeen" -/><br /><br /> -<small>MEAUX, SENLIS, AND BEAUVAIS</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_m.png" -width="60" -height="61" -alt="M" -title="M" -/></span>EAUX is a beautifully situated little town on the banks of the Marne -some thirty miles from Paris, on the way to the Champagne country. Its -general appearance can best be gathered from the delightful public -promenade along the river-side which is entered immediately on the right -of the station. The Cathedral dates back to the early thirteenth -century, but very shortly after it was finished, either owing to the -work of construction being hurried or to the foundations being insecure, -large cracks and actual shifting of the masonry declared themselves, and -a great deal of remodelling and alterations became necessary. The -vaulting and first stage of the choir aisles—or triforium -ambulatory—were removed, the aisles being thereby doubled in height. -The choir elevation is a very beautiful expression of thirteenth-century -design. The transept is short, and has a large rose window and a -richly-decorated portal.<a name="page_325" id="page_325"></a></p> - -<p>It is said that at one time, namely in the thirteenth century, -architects conceived the idea of covering the walls on the inside of the -porch with some vast design of decoration, by which the colour poured -into the church through the large rose-window should be enhanced by -great spaces of painted wall-surface. This conception, however, was very -short-lived, and towards the end of the century painted subjects were -confined almost entirely to the windows; and the internal decoration of -the <i>revers</i> of the porches was conceived, as at Meaux, more in an -architectural spirit with pilasters, arcading, etc., as motives, rather -than with features suggested by the painter’s art.</p> - -<p>Meaux as well as Lâon, Soissons, Beauvais, Noyon and other towns in the -district felt the effects of the Jacquerie revolts in the thirteenth -century. Indeed, many of the ladies who suffered from the horrors of the -persecution at Beauvais fled at first to Meaux to escape the fury of the -rebels; and once having got within the town, they did not dare to leave -it, so that to all intents and purposes they were prisoners within its -walls. Throughout the whole district bands of robbers and furious -peasants infested the roads or lay in ambush to catch the unwary, and it -was thus very dangerous to go from one town to another, even under an -armed escort. Hearing of<a name="page_326" id="page_326"></a> the plight of these ladies in Meaux, among -whom were the Duchesses of Orléans and Normandy, the Earl of Foix and -the Captal de Buch resolved to go to their aid, and set out forthwith -from Châlons, to find a great host of the peasantry also bound for the -same place. The rebels had heard that Meaux was chiefly inhabited by -refugee women and children, also that it contained a great deal of -treasure; and they were now flocking down every road, from Valois, from -Beauvoisie and from Paris, towards the little town upon the Marne. Foix -and his company were received with the utmost joy, for the peasants had -already begun to fill the streets and to do what damage they could, and -the ladies were naturally in great alarm. <a name="page_328" id="page_328"></a><a name="page_329" id="page_329"></a><a name="page_327" id="page_327"></a>“But when these banditti -perceived such a troop of gentlemen, so well equipped, sally forth to -guard the market-place, the foremost of them began to fall back. The -gentlemen then followed them, using their lances and swords. When they -felt the weight of their blows, they, through fear, turned about so -fast, they fell one over the other. All manner of armed persons then -rushed out of the barriers, drove them before them, striking them down -like beasts, and clearing the town of them, for they kept neither -regularity nor order, slaying so many that they were tired. They flung -them in great heaps into the river. In short, they killed upwards of -seven thousand. Not one would have escaped if they had chosen to pursue -them further.”</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_343_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_343_sml.jpg" width="550" height="394" -alt="MEAUX" -title="MEAUX" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">MEAUX</span> -</p> - -<p>Another siege famous in the annals of Meaux is that during the wars of -Henry V., when the English king encamped before the town in October, -1421, and set engines to batter down the gates and walls, having -entrenched his own army meanwhile in a strong position between hedges -and ditches. “The King of England,” Monstrelet tells us, “was -indefatigable in the siege of Meaux, and having destroyed many parts of -the walls of the market-place, he summoned the garrison to surrender -themselves to the King of France and himself, or he would storm the -place. To this summons they replied that it was not yet time to -surrender, on which the King ordered the place to be stormed. The -assault continued for seven or eight hours in the most bloody manner; -nevertheless, the besieged made an obstinate defence, in spite of the -great numbers that were attacking them. Their lances had been almost all -broken, but in their stead they made use of spits, and fought with such -courage that the English were driven back from the ditches, which -encouraged them much.” This state of affairs lasted for six months; the -garrison of Meaux, who seem to have behaved all through with the utmost -gallantry, were in hopes of relief from the Dauphin,<a name="page_330" id="page_330"></a> but at the end of -April, finding further resistance impossible, they gave themselves up -into the hands of Henry. A treaty was set on foot whereby, “on the 11th -day of May, the market-place and all Meaux were to be surrendered into -the hands of the kings of France and England.” The leaders were made -prisoners of war, and the chief offender, the bastard of Vaurus, who -“had in his time hung many a Burgundian and Englishman,” was beheaded -and hung as a warning on a tree outside the walls of the town. King -Henry himself—adds the French chronicler—“was very proud of this -victory, and entered the place in great pomp, and remained there some -days with his princes to repose and solace himself, having given orders -for the complete reparation of the walls that had been so much damaged -by artillery at the siege.”</p> - -<p>Meaux is of course notably associated with Bossuet, the famous preacher, -who was appointed to its bishopric in 1681. The study and garden where -he wrote many of his sermons are still shown among his other memorials -in the Évêché, near the Cathedral.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_347_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_347_sml.jpg" width="366" height="550" -alt="THE OLD MILLS AT MEAUX" -title="THE OLD MILLS AT MEAUX" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE OLD MILLS AT MEAUX</span> -</p> - -<p>“Dans les choses nécessaire, l’unité; dans les douteuses, la liberté; -dans tous les cas, la charité.” In these few words one may look for the -keynote of Bossuet’s whole life. Temperate in all things, yet possessed -with an eloquence more moving, it was said, than that of any man since -the days of the<a name="page_332" id="page_332"></a><a name="page_333" id="page_333"></a><a name="page_331" id="page_331"></a> Christian Fathers, and employed always in the cause -of the Church he loved so well, the “Aigle de Meaux” well deserves his -place among the greatest ecclesiastics France has ever known, and -France, just at this time, was rich in ecclesiastical genius. There was -Fénélon at Cambrai and Mascaron at Tulle, there were Massillon and -Bourdaloue, Arnauld and Fleury—all of them men of note, both in the -pulpit and in the world of books; but Bossuet stands out before them -all.</p> - -<p>He made an early entrance into the cultivated world, preaching his first -sermon, upon a subject chosen at random, in the salon of the Hôtel -Rambouillet, when hardly out of his teens; and the Marquis de -Feuquières, who had introduced him into this society of Précieuses, soon -found reason to be proud of his protégé. The young man was destined to -go on as he had begun; a few more years saw him established as Canon of -Metz, the close friend of Condé and of the Calvinist Paul Ferri, with -whom he never tired of disputing theological questions in a perfectly -amicable spirit, acting up to his maxim of “liberty in doubtful things”; -and finally his reputation brought him to Paris, where he preached -during Lent, 1656, and brought before the world the sermon as he created -it, purified from the profanities of an immoral age, strengthened by his -steadfast simplicity,<a name="page_334" id="page_334"></a> and quickened by the fire of his eloquence. -Bossuet found that in spite of himself his fame as an orator—a fame -after which he had never striven—was firmly established in the capital, -and after he had preached before the king in the chapel of the Louvre -his success was practically assured. Honours and dignities came fast -upon him; he became Bishop of Condom, and in the following year (1670) -was entrusted with the education of the Dauphin, while the Académie -Française opened its doors to his genius, and in 1681 he was appointed -to the See of Meaux. Hardly had Bossuet settled down, however, in the -quiet little <i>évêché</i>, with its pleasant green garden, than he was -called out again into the world of noise and controversy. In 1682 Louis -XIV. convoked the famous assembly of clergy to discuss the breach which -had lately disclosed itself between the State of France and the Papacy. -The king contended for the right of patronage over any vacant sees or -benefices, claiming that so long as they remained unoccupied, their -revenues fell due to the Crown; and called together the clergy of the -realm to uphold his right and to draw up a code of rules that should set -a line between spiritual and temporal authority. Bossuet preached the -sermon which was to open the Convocation; and his clear practical sense -and eloquent denunciation of the encroachments of the Papacy<a name="page_335" id="page_335"></a> destroyed -the remnants of Pope Innocent’s power in France. He summed up the case -in four clauses. First, “That the Pope has no temporal power over -kings”; secondly, “That his spiritual authority is inferior to that of a -general assembly”; thirdly, “That, in consequence, the use of this -authority ought to be regulated by the canons of the Church and by -customs generally approved”; and last, “That the papal decision on -matters of faith is only infallible by consent of the Church.” Thus did -Bossuet establish the privileges and the liberty of the Gallican Church.</p> - -<p>As soon as possible the great bishop disengaged himself from the affairs -of the nation, and was occupied, not in gaining fresh honours, but with -the care of his diocese. The picture of his last years is a graceful and -pleasant one, and shows the great man leading the life of a simple -country priest; writing sermons in his study or garden, directing his -convents, schools and hospitals, visiting his poor and sick people, even -catechising the children of Meaux; and at times retiring into the -seclusion of the monastery of La Trappe, to gather strength and courage -for the better fulfilment of his pastoral duties.</p> - -<p>The old timber water-mills behind the Town Hall are the outward sign of -one of the great industries of Meaux. They have withstood for many -generations<a name="page_336" id="page_336"></a> the rushing torrents of the Marne, which threaten to -undermine the starlings and timbers of the mills and to engulf them in -its waters. These for some reason or other are almost as green as the -outpourings of the Rhone at Geneva. It would be interesting to know if -Meaux possessed any feudal right over the neighbouring peasants, -compelling them to come and wait their turn at the mill, and pay -whatever price might be demanded, and forbidding them, even in times of -heavy yield, to get their corn ground elsewhere. Such oppressions -actually existed in the villages attached to the great châteaux, where -the seigneur had a right to keep huge rabbit-warrens and pigeon-houses, -whose inhabitants devastated, year in, year out, the surrounding crops -of the peasants.</p> - -<p>The little city of Senlis, with its girdle of Roman walls and watch -towers, is one of the most attractive places within reach of Paris. It -is situated about thirty-five miles to the northeast, in the midst of -the great forest land of Hallatte and Chantilly. Until the dissolution -of the Carlovingian empire Senlis enjoyed the privileges of a royal -residence, and, indeed, down to the time of Henri de Navarre the kings -of France continued to visit the city, and were lodged in a castle built -on the site of the Roman prætorium. The ruins of this castle, some of -which date from the eleventh century, may still be seen among the -attractions<a name="page_337" id="page_337"></a> of Senlis; and of even greater interest are the Roman -ramparts which surround the town and which were built when it still held -its position as the township of the Silvanectes. These walls, -“twenty-three feet high and thirteen feet thick, are, with those of St. -Lizier (Ariège) and Bourges, the most perfect in France. They enclosed -an oval area 1024 feet long from east to west and 794 feet wide from -north to south. At each of the angles formed by the broken lines of -which the circuit of 2756 feet is composed, stands or stood a tower; -numbering originally twenty-eight and now only sixteen, they are -semicircular in plan, and up to the height of the wall are unpierced. -The Roman city had only two gates; the present number is five.”</p> - -<p>As one approaches the town from the station through the boulevard, the -Renaissance tower of Saint Pierre and the beautiful <i>flèche</i> of the -Cathedral stand right ahead. The first of these two churches is now -desecrated and converted into a large market hall, having previously -been used as cavalry barracks. It is short and broad, having only three -bays to the nave, two to the choir, and an apse of three lights; but it -has one very marked feature, which is also seen, though to a lesser -extent, in the Cathedral of Saint Gatien at Tours—the axis of the choir -trends northwards, making with the nave an<a name="page_338" id="page_338"></a> angle of some seventeen to -twenty degrees. There is a certain amount of early Gothic work worth -notice, but the prevailing style is Flamboyant; in the two last side -chapels of the choir some curious vaulting is to be found, resembling -rude attempts at fan tracery with heavy keyed pendants.</p> - -<p>The Cathedral of Notre-Dame covers during its construction a period of -some four hundred years, and is probably only part of what was -originally designed. The glory of the building is the beautiful spire to -the south-west tower. Rising from a base octagonal in plan, the angles -are lightened by detached pillars supporting a pyramidal canopy; the -upper dormer windows are high and lancet-shaped, with the back of their -gables sloping downwards and forming a sharp angle with the richly -crocketed spire. Internally the church is a mixed product of the -Transition and Flamboyant architects; the large clerestory windows may -have been rebuilt later when the vaulting was constructed. In the -ambulatory behind the altar the twelfth-century capitals remain, showing -archaic Romanesque sculpture; and traces of this early work are to be -found in many other parts of the building. The large west door is of the -Chartres type; in the tympanum are the figures of our Lord and the -Virgin Mary, with a representation of the resurrection of the dead; some -of the figures are<a name="page_340" id="page_340"></a><a name="page_341" id="page_341"></a><a name="page_339" id="page_339"></a> flying upwards, while others are being tenderly -awakened by angels swinging censers.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_355_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_355_sml.jpg" width="365" height="550" -alt="SENLIS" -title="SENLIS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">SENLIS</span> -</p> - -<p>Long before the train arrives at Beauvais the Cathedral is seen like a -huge fortress in the distance, overtopping the quiet, modest landscape -of the Thérain valley; and its great size is more acutely felt as one -approaches its south doorway along the streets of little white-painted -houses and shop-fronts. The immediate effect of the interior of this -marvellous building is startling. Whatever emotion has been aroused in -the architectural traveller by the glories of Amiens, Chartres, or -Bourges, is for the moment entirely eclipsed by the first view of the -choir of Beauvais, whose clerestory windows soar upwards with such a -restless vitality as almost to pierce the vaulting. These choir bays -look like shafts of masonry so elongated, so delicate, that one trembles -for their stability. And this sensation gradually increases. The sense -of strength and repose gives way to a feeling that this great “church in -the air” is struggling against dissolution, and that its vast flying -buttresses are only just sufficient to withstand the tremendous strain -that is constantly being exerted on the building. It is only fair, -however, to the architect of Beauvais choir to say that he was hampered -by the want of means and probably also by the insufficient site assigned -to him for the planning out of his<a name="page_342" id="page_342"></a> Cathedral. Had he worked under more -favourable conditions he would have accomplished “an incomparable work,” -for it is not, as Viollet-le-Duc remarks, “the theory” that was fatal to -its construction, but the execution, which is poor and mediocre. The -lesson learnt from the Beauvais architect’s temerity on the one hand, -and from his beautiful disposition of plan on the other, was of the -greatest value to the designers of other Cathedrals executed at the same -time—notably that of Cologne, which was constructed more or less -contemporaneously with Beauvais.</p> - -<p>West of the Cathedral is the <i>Basse Œuvre</i>, a building which -Fergusson describes as an example of the Latin style, and a -stepping-stone from the Roman basilica to the Gothic church. This -intermediate style is noticeable in the Romanesque church of S. Vicenzo -alle Fontane in Rome, where the bay is divided simply into pier arch and -clerestory, showing in very simple terms an arrangement nearly -approaching to Gothic.</p> - -<p>Of the history of Beauvais there is but little to be said, for it -possesses none worthy of the name, or rather—since every town must have -a story of some kind—none which associates itself to any great degree -with outside events. It was established in the Roman era as the capital -of the Bellovaci, under the name<a name="page_343" id="page_343"></a> of Cæsaromagus; it was Christianised -by Saint Lucian, who for his good works suffered martyrdom within the -town; and later on it became the head of a countship. This dignity, -however, Beauvais did not long retain, for in the tenth century the -temporal power of the count was vested in the spiritual power of the -bishop, and any celebrity which the town may have attained was -henceforth of purely ecclesiastical order.</p> - -<p>It did, however, play a prominent part in the peasant revolt known as -the “Jacquerie” in the fourteenth century. A body of peasants, “without -any leader,” says Froissart, rose up with the intent to exterminate the -upper classes—a forerunner of the Revolution—and perpetrated the most -horrible atrocities upon every knight and noble they could lay hands on -in Beauvais. “They said that the nobles of the kingdom of France, -knights and squires, were a disgrace to it, and that it would be a very -meritorious act to destroy them all; to which proposition every one -assented as a truth, and added, shame befall him who should be the means -of preventing the gentlemen from being wholly destroyed.”</p> - -<p>When the revolt grew, instead of being crushed, the “gentlemen of -Beauvoisie” were forced to send for help out of France, since matters -were come to such a pass that <a name="page_344" id="page_344"></a>“in the bishoprics of Noyon, Lâon and -Soissons, there were upwards of one hundred castles and good houses of -knights and squires destroyed.” Aid soon came, notably from Flanders, -Hainault and Navarre, the king of Navarre especially signalising himself -by putting three thousand rebels to death in one day. “When they were -asked,” says the chronicler, “for what reason they acted so wickedly, -they replied they knew not, but they did so because they saw others do -it; and they thought that by this means they should destroy all the -nobles and gentlemen in the world.”</p> - -<p>Edward III. besieged Beauvais in 1346, but without success, and it only -fell into English hands in 1420 through the treachery of Bishop Pierre -Cauchon, whose name also appears as one of the witnesses against Joan of -Arc at Rouen eleven years later. The memory of this latter offence so -preyed upon his mind that when he became bishop of Lisieux—having -presumably been ejected from the see of Beauvais—Couchon sought to -expiate his sin by dedicating a chapel to the Virgin in the Cathedral of -Saint Pierre.</p> - -<p>Hearing of the siege of Compiègne by the Burgundian forces, Joan had -left Charles’s army, which was still dawdling by the Loire in a state of -inaction, and marched off to Compiègne to relieve his party there. -Arrived without the town, she soon headed<a name="page_345" id="page_345"></a> a sortie against the -Burgundians; they were driven back, and it is probable that the -expedition would have been attended by the success which, to do her -justice, had up to this moment crowned the efforts of the Maid, had not -a body of Englishmen come up unexpectedly between her and the town and -driven her into a corner. She was of course speedily captured. As soon -as the news reached Paris both the University and the Vicar of the -Inquisition demanded her person. Cauchon, however, stood firm. The Maid, -he contended, had been captured within the diocese of Beauvais, and he, -as the foremost prelate of the English party, claimed the right of -putting her on trial; and after having paid to Burgundy 10,000 livres -for this right, sent the Maid to Rouen, there to stand on her trial for -sorcery, before a court of which Cauchon was president; and this fact -alone might reasonably destroy all hope for poor Joan.</p> - -<p>Another fourteenth-century bishop of Beauvais brought his diocese before -the world in no small degree. Jean de Dormans was not only bishop; he -became Chancellor of France, and obtained from Rome the rank of a -cardinal, under the title of the Four Crowned Saints. In Paris Dormans -endowed a foundation which still bears the name of Collège de Beauvais, -though what remains of the building serves as barracks, and the light of -learning has left<a name="page_346" id="page_346"></a> its precincts for ever. The old college is now united -to its neighbour, the Collège de Presle; but the fourteenth-century -chapel dedicated to Saint John the Evangelist still stands almost -intact, though it, too, has been desecrated, and now serves the use of -the military occupiers. Formerly there stood within this chapel six -life-size figures, representing three men and three women of the Dormans -family, and it is believed that when mediæval fragments were pieced -together to form the chapel of Abélard and Héloise, which is now part of -the burial-ground of Père-la-Chaise, the figure of one of these ladies -of the fourteenth century was used to represent that of Héloise.</p> - -<p>One name there is on the page of their history which the inhabitants of -this town remember with a veneration almost equal to that which the -Orléannais regard Joan of Arc, and whose memory even now receives an -annual tribute. It is that of another Jeanne, poor and obscure, who rose -to heroism in the moment of her city’s danger, and who, though she did -not lead a mighty host to victory nor bring a monarch back to his own, -yet saved her city from the encroachments of Burgundy, and gave the -women of Beauvais a right to their country’s esteem. The besieging army -of Charles the Bold probably never received such a surprise as on that -day in the year of grace 1472, when Jeanne Hachette led her -<i>concitoyennes<a name="page_347" id="page_347"></a></i> through the streets of Beauvais, menaced the foe from -the ramparts, and actually bore away with her own hands one of the -Burgundian standards. The banner is still kept in the Hôtel-de-Ville; -and every year, on the feast of Ste. Angadrème, a grand procession -marches through the streets, in which the women are given the right of -precedence over the men, in memory of the brave deeds of Jeanne and her -sisters.<a name="page_348" id="page_348"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Chapter_Eighteen" id="Chapter_Eighteen"></a> -<img src="images/ill_c_18.png" -width="189" -height="29" -alt="Chapter Eighteen" -title="Chapter Eighteen" -/><br /><br /> -<small>PARIS AND SOME OF ITS CHURCHES</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="alt"><img src="images/ill_a.png" -width="60" -height="62" -alt="A" -title="A" -/></span>S a Cathedral city, Paris hardly comes within the scheme of this book. -It has been written about so much and so often, and occupies, both -architecturally and historically, such a position as would scarcely -justify any but a full and detailed description. This great city, the -living, moving source of one of the greatest nations of to-day, and at -one time the mainspring of Europe itself, is not to be passed over with -a few terse remarks; it is as though one tried to compress the history -of France itself into a single chapter. On the one hand, a short sketch -can hardly hope to do justice to Paris; on the other, to describe it at -such length as it deserves would not be dealing fairly by the lesser -towns, and further, this length would be so great as to render absurd -its inclusion in a book of traveller’s notes. Rather let it be regarded -here in the light of <i>point d’appui</i> from which other places may be -visited which do not lie on the direct route<a name="page_349" id="page_349"></a> from Paris to the -provinces. Without attempting any architectural description, however, it -may be as well, before we pass outside the city walls, to mention three -churches within Paris of which illustrations are given here, and to -offer the briefest possible outline of their early history and -foundation, as well as that of the great city of which they form a part.</p> - -<p>“Paris did not, like London, simply grow into the capital of a kingdom -already existing. The city created first the county and then the -kingdom, of which it was successively the head.” In those days Paris -ranked no higher than Soissons, Sens, Lâon, Orléans, or Rouen; and in -ecclesiastical dignity it was inferior to some of them, being, it is -true, an episcopal see, but not a metropolitan. Certainly, as we have -seen, it was approved as a military station by Cæsar, and beloved as a -residence by Julian; and the great position the city now holds in modern -Europe and the modern world is rather apt to bias our estimate of these -early honours, which were undoubtedly shared by many other of the Gallic -cities. Because Paris is now a metropolitan see, the centre of political -and social France, we have a tendency to think that in all times the -city must have ruled her neighbour towns in this way; whereas it was -only by very slow degrees—long after it had become the seat of royalty -and the nominal capital of France—that<a name="page_350" id="page_350"></a> Paris acquired an influence -beyond the bounds of her own territories. The great lords of Burgundy, -of Aquitaine, of Anjou, of Champagne—they were vassals to the king, -they paid him homage, they gave him their military service, but they and -their domains formed no part of France; they were almost as separate -from any head or centre as were the wide-scattered Teutonic states east -of the Rhine. Nor was this felt to be in any way a disadvantage; the -kings in Paris would doubtless have welcomed the firm allegiance of -these kings in all but name, because it would have meant a fresh access -of power, an added strength wherewith to face their other foes; but no -idea of national unity had any place in their calculation. Paris had -made for herself a dominion, and the time was to come when that dominion -should stretch from the sea on the north, south and west, to the river -and to the mountains on the east; but as yet that time had not arrived.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_367_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_367_sml.jpg" width="550" height="377" -alt="THE PONT MARIE, PARIS" -title="THE PONT MARIE, PARIS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE PONT MARIE, PARIS</span> -</p> - -<p>One more event which took place after Paris became the capital of France -may be recorded here. This is the attempted siege in the days of Joan of -Arc, which followed as the sequel to the king’s coronation at Rheims. -Having subdued so many cities in the north of France, and given to -Charles VII. the crown of his ancestors, it was but natural that Joan -should be anxious to lead him in triumph into<a name="page_352" id="page_352"></a><a name="page_353" id="page_353"></a><a name="page_351" id="page_351"></a> his capital, which at -present declared for the enemy, and was occupied by Cardinal Beaufort’s -English troops and the army of Burgundy. The newly-crowned king, -however, apparently considered that he had borne his share of the burden -in the late proceedings at Rheims, and seemed in no hurry to march upon -Paris. Riding through the smaller towns, seeing their gates flung open -wide to him, and receiving the homage and acclamations of the people, -were occupations far more congenial to his indolent tastes than -bestirring himself to take the field again; and to their infinite -annoyance Joan and d’Alençon perceived that he was gradually but surely -working his way down to his castles on the Loire, from whose pleasant -meadows they knew well that he would never return. The only wonder is -that the Maid did not lose all patience and leave this dilatory prince -to his fate. Instead of this she set out with the Duc d’Alençon to Saint -Denis, leaving Charles at Compiègne, whence he followed them, “very sore -against his will,” as far as Senlis. Meanwhile each day of delay gave -the English time to strengthen their position within the capital; and -Joan found that having brought the king to Senlis was by no means the -same thing as conquering his unwillingness to strike what she and her -party believed might be, if rightly directed, the final blow. Each time -the Maid and<a name="page_354" id="page_354"></a> d’Alençon set out to invest Paris, messages came from the -royal camp, commanding them to desist and return to Saint Denis. Finally -the truth came out; the king cared more for peace and ease on the Loire -than for glory in war, and desired to leave the camp. Had Joan believed -less firmly in the divine right of kings, it is probable that she would -have rebelled and besieged Paris on her own responsibility; on the other -hand, had Charles been left to the counsels of d’Alençon and the brave -captains Dunois and La Hire, there is reason to suppose that he might -have been persuaded to follow where Joan led, and might under her -guidance have subdued Paris in a very short time. But there were the -king’s favourites to reckon with, and these were not men of war, but of -peace, and not always of peace with honour—the foolish La Tremouille -and the crafty Archbishop of Rheims, one of Joan’s worst opposers—and -these advisers easily worked upon the king’s indolent good-nature to -find in the eagerness of the Maid an undue desire for fresh conquest. As -it was, Joan saw nothing before her but to obey the man to whom, as she -believed, God had given the right to go or stay, to fight or to lie in -peace, as his Majesty chose. She went to the statue of the Virgin at -Saint Denis, bearing her armour; and there, kneeling in the church, she -dedicated to Our Lady of Victories the helmet,<a name="page_355" id="page_355"></a> hauberk and coat of mail -in which she had done so many great feats of arms; and then rose and -followed her king on his journey to the pleasant lands of the Loire.</p> - -<p>The early history of Paris lies buried in the unrecorded pages of the -life of primæval man. Its origin is humble in comparison with that of -other capitals, although it bears a strong analogy to those surrounding -physical conditions to which Venice owed its existence. Its cradle, -according to M. Hoffbauer, <i>Paris à traverse les ages</i>, was a small -narrow island in the middle of the young Seine, which had then cut for -itself its channel through the alluvial plains which had been left by -the retiring sea towards the end of the Geological Tertiary period at -the close of the glacial epoch. It was part of a group of five islands, -of which three very soon disappeared, their soil being probably used -either for embankments or for purposes of defence. As in the great -estuary leading up to the morass surrounding London, many changes had -been wrought by the hand of man in the general appearance of the Paris -basin. It is true that the great embankments constructed by the Romans -to keep the waters of the Thames within defined limits are not to be -traced in the valley of the Seine, yet the rude habitations of wattle -huts built on whatever hillocks were attainable entailed<a name="page_356" id="page_356"></a> embankments to -a certain extent which should keep the Seine within its bounds at times -of extraordinary flood. As it stands to-day Paris is in one of the most -fertile parts of the territory; it is on the banks of a great river -which brings to it by its main stream and by its affluents the tribute -of the richest provinces; it is surrounded by materials most necessary -for the construction of its public and private edifices; and it is -endowed by nature with all the fruitful resources tending towards the -aggrandisement both of power and fortune.</p> - -<p>The condition of the early inhabitants of the Paris basin was that of -one continual warfare against the denizens of the jungle, which with its -rich and abundant vegetation covered the surrounding country. Caverns -and other places chosen for their abodes were disputed with lions, -hyenas and tigers. The chase was their only means of subsistence (the -art of husbandry being entirely unknown), and the number of stone -hatchets and harpoons, fishing-hooks, lances, &c., found deeply buried -in the alluvial soil, bear testimony to the struggle for existence -amongst the early inhabitants of the Seine valley.</p> - -<p>Cæsar, when he was appointed commander of the Gauls in <small>B.C.</small> 59, found -their central point of Paris inhabited by a Cymric or Celtic population, -which he calls Gauls in his language but Celts in their own,<a name="page_357" id="page_357"></a> and -separated from the Belgæ by the Seine and Marne. Cæsar wrote the place -“Lutetia,” and when he convoked the inhabitants of Gaul to this town the -neighbouring tribe was designated as “Parisii,” and allied to the -powerful clan of the Senones.</p> - -<p>With reference to the meaning of the word “Parisii,” M. Bulet, in the -“Dictionnaire Celtique,” says that “bar” or “par” means in Celtic a boat -(<i>bateau</i>), and that the low Bretons call the cargo of a boat “far.” -Herodotus (book ii., 96), in his description of the method of floating -boats down stream on the Nile by means of a raft fastened on in front -with a stone dragging behind, calls the boat “baris,” and says that some -of them are many thousand talents burthen. They were probably -flat-bottomed, and similar to those now seen on the rivers. The Celtic -word “par,” signifying a boat, might well have produced the name -Parisii, meaning boatmen, men who passed all their life in the “baris.”</p> - -<p>The most ancient emblem of Lutetia which has been preserved from -antiquity is that of the prow of a boat which one sees sculptured on the -springing of the vault of the Roman palace of the Thermes, built on the -left bank of the Seine; the powerful association of the Nautæ Parisiaci, -which is found at the head of the Parisian Navigation represented by the -prow of a boat, has therefore a direct Celtic<a name="page_358" id="page_358"></a> or Gallic origin. Living -only in rude cabins the early inhabitants naturally possessed no public -building. Cæsar therefore conceived the idea of convoking the Gaulish -chiefs into one central place or forum, and ordered to be built a -“Suggestum,” a tribune from which he could harangue the assembled -headmen. This is considered by some French architects as the earliest -indication of their <i>édilité naissánte</i>. As further evidence of their -building and engineering capability, the inhabitants of Lutetia threw -out bridges to join their island to the main banks of the river. Cæsar -frequently refers to the bridges built by the Gauls, such as the one at -Melun, on the Seine, another across the Allier, near Vichy, of which -ancient foundations and piers have been found, another at Orléans, and -of such slender construction as to have especially attracted his -attention, and, finally, the bridge of Lutetia across the main arm of -the Seine, the predecessor of the present Pont Notre Dame, which has -also left traces of its ancient piers.</p> - -<p>In Rome the Nautæ Tiberis were a corporation who enjoyed the privilege -of carrying corn and other produce from Ostia to the capital; similar -associations existed in Gaul in addition to the Nautæ Parisiaci, and on -a wall of the amphitheatre of Nîmes is an inscription in which as many -as forty places<a name="page_359" id="page_359"></a> are mentioned where corporations enjoying the same -privileges and immunities existed. No wonder the territory of the -Parisii increased in commercial activity. Watered by the Seine, the -Marne and the Oise, its trade routes by land and by water were fully -organised and guarded by powerful associations which existed almost -before the Roman Conquest, and attracted the attention of the writer -Strabo. It soon developed under such advantages into a prosperous and -enlightened city. Roman buildings took the place of the Gallic huts, -Roman laws governed the city, Roman customs and manners prevailed -amongst the inhabitants, and by the time the first messengers of -Christianity had penetrated into Gaul Lutetia had become a city not of -the Gauls, but of the Romans. Curiously enough it was from Rome also -that these early messengers came, to preach their doctrine to a Roman -city. The pioneers were Saint Denis, generally confounded, for the sake -of the antiquity of the Gallican Church, with the convert of Saint Paul, -Dionysius the Areopagite, and two companions, Eleutherius and Rusticus; -and their work was carried on by Martin of Tours, one of the bravest -soldiers of the Emperor Julian, who left the army to preach the faith in -Gaul, and to stamp out the cult of the old pagan gods. Speaking of -Julian, moreover, may serve to remind us that it was at<a name="page_360" id="page_360"></a> Paris that he -was first proclaimed emperor; here was his palace before his imperial -honours came upon him, and here, he declares in his own writings, were -spent the three happiest winters of his life, showing that even in these -early times Lutetia was a fair and pleasant city, as it is to-day.</p> - -<p>In the following centuries Gaul was overrun with tribes from the east, -Goths and Visigoths, Alemnanni and Huns, Burgundians and Franks. The -last-named broke down the Roman defences all over the land and seized -upon Paris. A new era now began for the city. Under Clovis, the first -Frank king, it became the official capital of the State in 508, and from -this time forward takes its place as one of the great cities of France. -After the conversion of Clovis, abbeys and churches were built, great -bishops and great saints preached and wrote their message, and indeed -the ecclesiastical fabric of the city seems to have grown up more -quickly than the civil fabric, until the time of Charlemagne, when -craftsmen’s guilds were established, Jewish capitalists admitted within -the walls, and a mercantile reputation founded. Then a second time the -work of the conquerors seemed to be undone. The Northmen, more terrible -invaders than Goths or Franks, plundered the coast-lands and presently -swept up the Seine past Rouen to Paris, where they worked such havoc as<a name="page_361" id="page_361"></a> -the town had never before known. The streets were set in flames, the -monasteries were sacked and burnt, the priests and monks were massacred -without mercy; yet all this evil was to end in better things. The very -persistency of the Normans in besieging and pillaging a town four and -five times, argued that the town itself must be worth the trouble, and -the “lords” of Paris speedily began to look to its safety. Weak, foolish -Charles the Fat could devise no better plan than the cowardly one of -bribing the invaders to retreat; but Eudes, Count of Paris, knew that -this would only be an inducement to them to come again, and determined -once and for all to rid his city, at least, of this scourge. This he did -with such effect that the crown of France was given to him and the -inefficient Charles deposed. It was his nephew, Hugh the Great, who -ruled at Paris in Rolf’s day, and waged constant war with Neustria and -Charles the Simple, the last of the Carlovingian kings, on the -hill-crest at Lâon. Then, at the end of the tenth century, began the -feudal monarchy under the Capetian dynasty. The first of the line was -the eldest son of Hugh the Great, and the connections which he brought -with him promised well for the prestige of his new kingdom. On the one -side, he was brother-in-law to the Norman Duke, Richard the Fearless; on -the other, his own brother Odo was Duke of Burgundy;<a name="page_362" id="page_362"></a> in his own right -he was lord of Picardy, of Maine, of Chartres, of Tours, of Blois, and -of Orléans; and his bond with the Church was further strengthened by the -fact that he held the lay abbacies of Saint Martin, near Tours, and -Saint Denis, near Paris. Thus the kingdom with which Hugh Capet began -his reign was a fairly compact strip of land, having as boundaries -Flanders to the north, Aquitaine to the south, Champagne to the east, -and Normandy to the west. Of this kingdom Paris was nearly the actual -geographical centre, and soon became the political centre also.</p> - -<p>The early importance of Paris in the tenth century is very different to -that of London. Paris at this time was a military position of growing -importance, both from its central situation and its place on the island -in the Seine. London on her Thames had an almost similar position, but -she derived her power not merely from her Teutonic conquerors, but also -from her early connection with Roman and Celtic Britain; while as a -military stronghold she was no less to be desired.</p> - -<p>The eastern point of the city, where the only bridge then existed, -traversing the Seine in the exact place where now stands the Pont Notre -Dame, a point where the roads through the province converged, was -already a place sacred to the Gauls. Here were <a name="page_363" id="page_363"></a>performed rites and -sacrifices to their mysterious divinities in an underground church which -existed in the third century. Probably the tradition of dark deeds of -persecution of the early Christians, human sacrifices, and missionaries -suffering death in the cages of lions which were kept for the purpose of -exhibitions, prevented the Parisian boatmen, when they heard of the -wonderful tidings of Galilee, from using this Gaulish building, so full -of terrible reminiscences, as their first church. The site of the Temple -of Jupiter was chosen for the establishment of a church which should -stamp out the heathen religion, crush with its heel the serpent’s head -and build upon its ruins a temple of the Holy Cross. About 375, on the -site of the Temple of Jupiter, was built a church dedicated to Saint -Etienne, which may be considered as the first Cathedral of Paris.</p> - -<p>To the splendour of this early basilica, built by Childebert in the -early Latin style, with its marble columns, some of which are now in the -Musée de Cluny, the monk Fortunatus bears witness, and his description -of the edifice is thus given in M. Hoffbauer’s book on Paris: <a name="page_364" id="page_364"></a>“Le -vaisseau de cette église repose sur des colonnes de marbre, et le soin -avec lequel on l’entretient en augment la beauté. Le premier il fut -éclairé de fenêtres ornées de verres transparents par lesquels on reçoit -la lumière. On dirait que la main d’un ouvrier habile a emprisonné le -jour dans le sanctuaire. Les feux tremblants de l’aurore naissante -semblant se jouer jusque dans les lambris, et le temple est éclairé par -la charté du jour même, quand le soliel ne se montre pas. Le roi -Childebert, animé d’un zèle particulier pour cette église destinèe à son -peuple, l’a dotée de richesses qui ne doivent jaimais s’épuiser; -toujours passioné pour les intèrêts de la religion, il s’est empressé -d’augmenter ses ressources. Nouveau Melchisédech, notre roi est en même -temps un pontife qui remplit exactement ses devoirs de fidèle comme ses -devoirs de pasteur. Bien qu’occupé dans le palais qu’il habite du soin -de rendre la justice, son plus grand désir est d’imiter l’example des -saints évêques. Il quitte la première charge pour en remplir une autre -avec plus d’honneur, et le souvenir de ses grandes actions lui assure -l’immortalité.”</p> - -<p>By the twelfth century the basilica has disappeared, and its place has -been taken, not by a single church, but by two churches side by -side—Sainte Marie on the north, Saint Etienne on the south. At the -beginning of the century Saint Etienne was the more important of the -two, having escaped plunder at the hands of the Normans, who wrought -considerable destruction in the sister church; but a twelfth-century -archdeacon, Etienne de Garlande, took upon<a name="page_365" id="page_365"></a> himself the task of -restoring Sainte Marie, which became known as the <i>nova ecclesia</i>, and -formed the foundation of the great basilica planned by Maurice de Sully. -This church, begun in 1163, was to unite Saint Etienne and Sainte Marie; -the foundation stone was laid by Pope Alexander III., and in 1218 the -remains of the old church of Saint Etienne were destroyed to make way -for the south aisle of Notre Dame. The work went on into the thirteenth -century; the great west portal was probably finished about 1223, and -those of the transepts some forty years later.</p> - -<p>“There are absolutely only these two churches (Notre Dame and the Sainte -Chapelle) left standing in the island of the city, and there is nothing -in the history of Paris which more clearly exhibits the modern -disposition to make a <i>tabula rasa</i> of the past.” In the Middle Ages the -great Cathedral of Paris—“cathedral” since the twelfth century—stood -in its island of La Cité amidst a perfect cluster of lesser churches, of -which only the chapel of Saint Louis remains. Mr. Hamerton, whose words -are quoted above, gives quite a considerable list of them in his “Paris -in Old and Present Times,” Sainte Genèviève, Saint Jean le Rond, Saint -Denis du Pas, and its brother church of La Chartre—these are but a few -of their names, and yet these names are all that<a name="page_366" id="page_366"></a> now remain of churches -where mediæval knights and burghers and artificers worshipped, and into -whose building mediæval architects, unknown and forgotten, put their -best work and their highest service; even their sites are, in most -cases, undiscoverable amongst the great mass of buildings, and bright -wide streets, and green gardens of Paris as we know it. Some of these -churches, like Saint Aignan and Saint Germain-le-Vieux, have left a few -isolated columns and stones, but to find these, as one writer observes, -“il faudrait pénétrer dans les maisons et se livrer à des recherches.” -Another, the old Madeleine, has suffered an even worse fate, its last -remaining chapel being now transformed into a wine-shop at the corner of -the Rue des Marmousets; a private house now stands upon the site of -Saint-Pierre aux Bœufs, built, says an inscription on the façade, in -the middle of the twelfth century, and demolished as late as 1837; and -as for Saint Michel du Palais, within whose walls Archibishop Maurice de -Sully baptised Philip Augustus in 1165, nothing remains to the memory of -the Archangel but the bridge over the Seine. “‘There is my bridge -still,’ Saint Michael may think, ‘but as for my church I seek for it in -vain.’” These vanished churches are too many all to be numbered here, -since in La Cité alone there were, up to the eighteenth century, no less -than seventeen of<a name="page_368" id="page_368"></a><a name="page_369" id="page_369"></a><a name="page_367" id="page_367"></a> them, and outside the walls of the city there were -many more.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_383_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_383_sml.jpg" width="550" height="369" -alt="NÔTRE DAME, PARIS" -title="NÔTRE DAME, PARIS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">NÔTRE DAME, PARIS</span> -</p> - -<p>Happily Notre Dame has better withstood the attacks of time and all the -accidents of fire, plunder, and desecration. Five years or so after the -completion of the western façade a fire broke out, and in the -restoration the double-arched buttresses of the former apse disappeared, -and the windows were enlarged in accordance with the growing love of -light which was being manifested in other cathedrals all through France. -In more modern times—towards the middle of the eighteenth century—the -extraordinary taste of the late Renaissance period ordered the removal -of all the stained glass both of nave and choir—leaving, however, the -western rose window and the two in the transepts—and this is, of -course, a loss that can never be repaired, although the restorations of -Viollet-le-Duc have probably, as Mr. Hamerton says, gone some way -towards bringing back the original effect of light in the interior of -the church. The exterior of the nave likewise suffered not a little from -the doubtless well-meaning zeal of an unarchitectural age, which had -literally stripped it bare of all ornament: <a name="page_370" id="page_370"></a>“One after another the -architects had suppressed the advancing parts of the buttresses between -the chapels, the gables, the friezes, the balustrades—in one word, the -entire ornamentation of these same chapels, the pinnacles which -decorated the tops of the buttresses, with the statues which accompanied -them and their flowering spires, the picturesque gargoyles which -rendered the services of throwing the rain-water to a distance from the -walls.”</p> - -<p>“We may take it for granted,” Mr. Lonergan says in his “Historic -Churches of Paris,” “that those who dedicated the church to the Virgin -were not influenced alone by the fact that a previous temple in her -honour had stood on the banks of the river, but by the impetus given to -what Protestants call her ‘worship’ and Catholics her ‘cult’ or devotion -in the twelfth century.” From the earliest times there existed, -especially among sailors and fishermen, the feeling of devotion to the -Virgin Mary. They prayed to her who held the Divine Infant on her knees -to intercede for the lives of men who sailed across the waters on dark -and starless nights. This worship of the Virgin steadily grew all over -France, and the founders of the great monastic orders—Saint Augustin, -Saint Benedict, and Saint Francis, and the famous Saint Bernard of -Clairvaulx—are all included by Dante as paying special devotion to the -Virgin; and history has furnished us with many other names, amongst -which are those of Hildebert, the bishop of Le Mans, Yves and Pierre, -bishops of Chartres, and the scholar of St. Denis, Pierre Abélard.<a name="page_371" id="page_371"></a> At -no time was this more noticeable than in the centuries following the -completion of Notre Dame. In consequence of this great growth of -Mary-worship, the Virgin came to be regarded as the protectress of the -people—as, indeed, she is to this day—and the Church of Notre Dame -began to be the people’s church, a kind of centre, civil as well as -ecclesiastical, of the city life. For instance, Notre Dame in Paris -became not only the house of worship and prayer, but “the house both of -God and man,” and this through no irreverent feeling. The <i>parvis</i> or -garden in front of the Cathedral became a gathering-ground for the -townsfolk—a remnant of this feeling, it would seem, still exists in the -markets which in lesser towns are nearly always held round the -church—fairs took place there, the buyers bringing their purchases to -be blessed by the priest as they passed the church steps; and the -various festivals of the Church gave rise to secular feasts and sports -of all kinds, as well as to the performance of the miracle plays which -were attended by the people with such simple wonder and reverence, and -which in England laid the foundation of the secular comedies.</p> - -<p>The monks of Saint Germain originally came from Autun, and at first -acknowledged the rule of Saint Basil, which was afterwards exchanged for -that of Saint Benedict. After its restoration in the eleventh<a name="page_372" id="page_372"></a> century -the foundations became very powerful, and round its walls grew up the -<i>bourg</i> of Saint Germain; later it became the Faubourg of that name, the -“intellectual quarter” of Paris, the haunt of all the most brilliant -spirits of the day; whose streets were trodden by great men, and marked -by the footsteps of genius.</p> - -<p>The Abbey Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés likewise owes its existence -to the Merovingian Childebert. In the sixth century Childebert went on -an expedition against the Visigoths in Spain, and returned triumphant -with a number of sainted relics, among them the tunic of Saint Vincent -and a magnificent gold cross; and in honour of these trophies and for -their safe keeping he built in the fields outside Paris a monastery, -which was consecrated by Saint Germain, so the legend says, the very day -of its royal founder’s death. The abbey was originally dedicated, in -memory of the relics which it guarded, to Saint Vincent and the Holy -Cross; but after the death of its first abbot, Saint Germain, in 576, it -became known by his name. Before the building of the Abbey of Saint -Denis, Saint-Germain-des-Prés was the burial place of the royal house, -and a long line of Childeberts, Chilperics, and Chlothars lie at rest -beneath its stones. It was pillaged and burnt by the Normans no less -than five times, and therefore,<a name="page_374" id="page_374"></a><a name="page_375" id="page_375"></a><a name="page_373" id="page_373"></a> when the Abbot Morard set about -rebuilding it in the eleventh century, very little was left of -Childebert’s old foundation. Part of Morard’s work may still be seen in -the present nave of the church; the choir and apse were built later, and -date from the second half of the twelfth century, the church being -finally consecrated by Pope Alexander III. in 1163.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_389_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_389_sml.jpg" width="362" height="550" -alt="ST. GERMAIN DES PRÉS, PARIS" -title="ST. GERMAIN DES PRÉS, PARIS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ST. GERMAIN DES PRÉS, PARIS</span> -</p> - -<p>The wealth of the monastery even so late as the eighteenth century may -be gauged by the indignation of Arthur Young, who in his travels through -France in 1786-7 of course visited the capital and its many churches, -but looked upon everything with the eye of an agriculturist, and only -saw in the rich meadows of the Benedictines so much wasted material for -a prosperous farm. “It is the richest abbey in France; the abbot has -300,000 liv. a year. I lose my patience at seeing such revenues thus -bestowed, consistent with the spirit of the tenth century, but not with -that of the eighteenth. What a noble farm would a fourth of this income -establish! What turnips, what cabbages, what potatoes, what clover, what -sheep, what wool! Are not these things better than a fat ecclesiastic?”</p> - -<p>Like Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the Sainte Chapelle originated in a -sanctuary where precious relics might be safely deposited, though its -foundation does not date back to the early zeal of the fresh-converted<a name="page_376" id="page_376"></a> -Merovingian kings, but only to the crusades of Louis the Saint, who -brought from the East the Crown of Thorns and some fragments of the True -Cross. Legend describes the king as walking bare-foot through the -streets of Sens and Paris, displaying his treasure-trove to an adoring -multitude; but it soon became necessary to place the relics in -sanctuary, and accordingly, in 1245, the celebrated architect, Pierre de -Montereau, began to work out his plans under the direction of the king, -and completed his chapel three years later. Its form was a curious one, -consisting of two stages; the upper one, dedicated to the Sainte -Couronne and the Sainte Croix, was reserved for the king and his court; -the lower, bearing the name of the Virgin, was given over to servants, -retainers, and the general multitude.</p> - -<p>This upper chapel, which was then and still is to-day the chief glory of -the building, was on a level with the royal apartments in the adjoining -palace, and could thus be reached without descending into the court and -re-ascending by the staircase. This chapel was the joy of Saint Louis’ -life, and during his reign no cost was spared in order to make it a -fitting receptacle for the relics which he venerated and believed in as -simply as a child, and for which he is said to have paid to the -Byzantine emperor the enormous sum of two million <i>livres</i>. As<a name="page_377" id="page_377"></a> it now -stands, the Sainte Chapelle has been almost completely restored, and -this restoration, which was carried out in the last century, was -embarked upon none to soon, judging from the accounts given of the state -of the church after the Revolution. To begin with, it had been -desecrated under the rule of the Goddess of Reason, and used for storing -legal documents and papers; the beautiful glass of its windows, with its -marvellous minuteness of design, was either destroyed or irregularly -patched up; the spire was gone, and so was much of the sculpture and -ornament, both outside and inside. There it stood, this monument of the -piety of St. Louis, its founder forgotten, its glory departed, and its -actual structure in danger of being swept away. Even its ancient -surroundings, the Great Hall, the <i>Cour de Mai</i>, and the <i>Cour des -Comptes</i> of Louis XII., had vanished; their place was occupied by modern -law-courts, and the half-ruined church seemed hopelessly out of date and -out of place. By a great stroke of good fortune the balance turned in -its favour; it was decided not to pull it down, but to restore it as a -chapel attached to the courts, where the lawyer might hear Mass; and, -thanks to the care and skill of the restoring architect, it stands -to-day in all essentials much as it did when Louis IX. worshipped there -with his courtiers, when the light from the tall windows streamed<a name="page_378" id="page_378"></a> in -upon the bright armour and rich garments of hundreds of noble figures, -staining them with new and wonderful colours, and when the courts below -were alive with a motley crowd, townsfolk of Paris, pressing to get a -sight of the king’s majesty, servants and retainers thronging round the -doors or filing into Mass in the Chapel of the Virgin below, whose low -roof and vaulting really gave it the appearance of a crypt to the -soaring chapel of the Crown and Cross above it.</p> - -<p>Until the time of Henri II. the kings of France lived in the great -“Salle des Pas Perdus” as their royal palace; then the Parlement of -Paris—a purely legal body—took possession of it, and the easy-going -canons of the Sainte Chapelle ministered not to princes and nobles, but -to the brisk, alert <i>gens de la robe</i>, who were quick to note and to -laugh at their comfortable ecclesiastical placidity and ridiculous petty -quarrels. Boileau, the famous satirist, was the son of a registrar, and -grew up under the shadow of the law-courts, and it was he who in his -“Lutrin” victimised the poor, ease-loving prebends and canons more than -any of his fellows, though one of these canons was his own brother, and -after Boileau’s death heaped coals of fire upon the head, or rather, -upon the memory, of the poet, by allowing his bones to rest within the -building at whose servants he had<a name="page_380" id="page_380"></a><a name="page_381" id="page_381"></a><a name="page_379" id="page_379"></a> so mercilessly mocked. The lawyers -still have the possession of the Sainte Chapelle; but all stalls and -seats have been removed and its doors are opened once a year only, when -the autumn session begins, being inaugurated by the “Messe Rouge,” -celebrated by the Archbishop of Paris himself.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_395_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_395_sml.jpg" width="367" height="550" -alt="PONT ST. MICHEL AND STE. CHAPELLE, PARIS" -title="PONT ST. MICHEL AND STE. CHAPELLE, PARIS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">PONT ST. MICHEL AND STE. CHAPELLE, PARIS</span> -</p> - -<p>The Benedictine foundation of Saint Denis, though it stands outside the -walls of the city, in a suburb where the tangle of machinery and smoke -of factories make strange surroundings for the peace of the cloister, -must always claim a right to come within the story of France’s capital, -since it is the last resting-place of France’s kings. The legends of -Paris and its saints ascribe the original foundation of the abbey church -to the following story, which has come to be very well known, concerning -as it does the patron saint of France. Saint Denis, who, as we have -seen, was the first to evangelise in the marshes of Lutetia, suffered -martyrdom under the Valerian persecutions in the third century, in the -city where his good work had begun; but after his head had been struck -off, the body, instead of falling lifeless at once, rose up from the -block, took the head in its hands, and walked out of the city to the -neighbouring town of Catulliacum, where it finally sought refuge in the -villa of one Catulla, a Roman lady of noble and good repute, who -instantly took possession of her sainted<a name="page_382" id="page_382"></a> charge and gave him Christian -burial within her garden. So far is legend; at any rate, a chapel was -erected over the shrine, and became, of course, an object of pilgrimage -for many years. Then comes the story of Dagobert, the rebellious young -prince who sought sanctuary in the chapel against the wrath of his -father; and, inspired by a vision of the saint, promised to build a -church on the same site. Accordingly, on his accession to his father’s -throne, the Abbey and Church of Saint Denis were founded in about 769. -In the following century the Benedictine monks purchased their immunity -from Norman invaders by large sums of money; but this contract seems to -have availed them little, since the pirates, probably hoping for fresh -plunder, despoiled the monastery as they had despoiled -Saint-Germain-des-Prés. After this the foundation fell into a terrible -state of neglect. Its abbots were fighting men—not necessarily -ecclesiastics, for many nobles in those days held lay abbacies; Hugh -Capet, for instance, was abbot of Saint Martin at Tours—and not until -the day of the famous Suger did it recover anything like its ancient -prestige. Suger was an old pupil of the Benedictines at Saint Denis, and -a fellow-scholar there with the young prince Louis l’Eveillé, afterwards -Louis VI., whose chief minister he became in later days. In the days of -his prosperity the abbot<a name="page_383" id="page_383"></a> devoted himself to restoring and beautifying -the church, and left full instructions to be carried out by his -successor, when death prevented him from finishing what had been so -nobly begun. The work languished again, however, until the reign of -Louis IX., when Eudes de Clément and Matthieu de Vendôme took up the -plans once more, and completed the church very much as we now see it.</p> - -<p>It was at Saint Denis that was enacted the romance of the scholar Pierre -Abélard and “la très-sage Hélois” of Villon, whose story is too well -known—and, perhaps, also too secular—to quote here. Both lie buried -now at Père-la-Chaise, their remains having been removed from the -monastery at Cluny in 1791 by Lenoir, to his collection of fragments and -old monuments spared from the Revolution. It was after the Revolution -that the abbey suffered more terrible damage and desecration than ever -invading heathens or conquering English had worked there. The -Convention, in its haste to rid the country of every trace of the hated -monarchy, must needs assail dead kings and queens as well as living -ones. Consequently every tomb was ravaged and the dust of a hundred -kings lay mingling with the dust of the common ditch. With the -restoration of the Bourbons, Louis XVIII. ordered also the replacement, -as far as it was possible, of the bones of his dead ancestors;<a name="page_384" id="page_384"></a> and the -French kings sleep once again at Saint Denis, peaceful and undisturbed -as in other years, though a smoky veil hangs over their resting-place -and the roar of furnaces breaks the quiet of their ancient tombs.<a name="page_385" id="page_385"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="Index" id="Index"></a>Index</h2> - -<p class="cb"><a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#Q">Q</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>.</p> - -<p class="nind"> -<a name="A" id="A"></a>Abadie, M., restoration of St. Pierre, <a href="#page_269">269</a>.<br /> -<br /> -Abbaye aux Dames, Caen, <a href="#page_118">118-119</a>.<br /> -Abbeville on the Somme—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Wolfran, <a href="#page_027">27-28</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Geological discoveries, <a href="#page_021">21-22</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_022">22-26</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rue des Trois Cailloux, <a href="#page_027">27</a>.</span><br /> -Abbeys and Abbey-Churches—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">St. Denis, <a href="#page_078">78-81</a>, <a href="#page_381">381-384</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">St. Germain-des-Près, <a href="#page_372">372-376</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">St. Jean des Vignes, <a href="#page_061">61</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">St. Ouen, <a href="#page_082">82-83</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sainte-Colombe, <a href="#page_300">300</a>.</span><br /> -Abélard, Pierre, <a href="#page_346">346</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a>.<br /> -Académie Française, <a href="#page_113">113</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bossuet admitted, <a href="#page_334">334</a>.</span><br /> -Agenticum, ancient name of Sens, <a href="#page_299">299</a>.<br /> -Aiguillon, <a href="#page_268">268</a>.<br /> -Aisne, the, <a href="#page_054">54</a>.<br /> -Aître de St. Maclou, Rouen, <a href="#page_083">83-84</a>.<br /> -Alatri, walls of, <a href="#page_261">261</a>.<br /> -Alcock, Bishop, <a href="#page_274">274</a>.<br /> -Alcuin, his school of Theology, <a href="#page_184">184</a>.<br /> -Alençon, <a href="#page_172">172</a>.<br /> -Alençon, Duc d’, attempted siege of Paris, <a href="#page_353">353-354</a>.<br /> -Alexander III., Pope, <a href="#page_365">365</a>, <a href="#page_375">375</a>.<br /> -Allier, the, <a href="#page_358">358</a>.<br /> -Amaury, Montfort d’, family, <a href="#page_090">90</a>.<br /> -Amboise, <a href="#page_192">192</a>.<br /> -Amiens Cathedral, <a href="#page_027">27-37</a>, <a href="#page_075">75</a>.<br /> -Angers—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Castle, <a href="#page_175">175-176</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral of St. Maurice, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_179">179-180</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Cheval Blanc,” the, <a href="#page_176">176</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_169">169-174</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Préfecture, old cloister in the, <a href="#page_176">176-179</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roman basilica, <a href="#page_052">52</a>.</span><br /> -Angevin Style, <a href="#page_179">179-180</a>.<br /> -Angoulême—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral of St. Pierre, <a href="#page_268">268-270</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_267">267-268</a>.</span><br /> -Angoulême, François d’. <i>See</i> Francis I.<br /> -Anjou, Counts of, <a href="#page_170">170-174</a>.<br /> -Anne of Austria, <a href="#page_274">274</a>.<br /> -Anne of Brittany, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>.<br /> -Anselm of Bec, <a href="#page_121">121</a>.<br /> -Aquitaine—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Domed churches of, <a href="#page_262">262-266</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Truce of God in, <a href="#page_125">125</a>.</span><br /> -Archæological Institute of Great Britain, <a href="#page_075">75</a>.<br /> -Ariège, Roman walls in, <a href="#page_337">337</a>.<br /> -Arnauld, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> -Arques, surrender of, <a href="#page_248">248</a>.<br /> -Arras tapestries, <a href="#page_180">180</a>.<br /> -Ascelin, son of Arthur, <a href="#page_122">122</a>.<br /> -Attila, attack on Orléans, <a href="#page_223">223</a>.<br /> -Augustin, St., <a href="#page_370">370</a>.<br /> -Aurelianum, ancient name of Orléans, <a href="#page_223">223</a>.<br /> -Autun Cathedral, <a href="#page_302">302</a>.<br /> -Auxerre—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral of St. Etienne, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_302">302-310</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Eusèbe, <a href="#page_310">310</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">of St. Germain, <a href="#page_305">305-309</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hôtel de l’Épée, <a href="#page_310">310</a>.</span><br /> -Avallon, <a href="#page_305">305</a>.<br /> -Avranches, <a href="#page_144">144</a>.<br /> -Aymer de Valence, tomb at Westminster, <a href="#page_077">77</a>, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.<br /> -Azo, Prince of Liguria, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="B" id="B"></a>Barker, Mr., “Two Summers in Guyenne,” <a href="#page_293">293</a>.<br /> -Bar-sur-Seine, <a href="#page_314">314</a>.<a name="page_386" id="page_386"></a><br /> -“Bastard of Orléans,” <a href="#page_215">215</a>.<br /> -Bayeux—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_109">109-110</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Description, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_107">107-108</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_104">104</a>, <i>et seq.</i></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lanterne des Morts, <a href="#page_108">108</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Maison d’Adam,” <a href="#page_108">108</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Maison du Gouverneur, <a href="#page_108">108</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rue des Bouchers, <a href="#page_107">107</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Rue Général de Daïs, <a href="#page_107">107</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Rue St. Martin, <a href="#page_107">107</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Seminary chapel, <a href="#page_110">110</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tapestry, the, <a href="#page_110">110-115</a>.</span><br /> -Béat, St., Legend of, <a href="#page_040">40</a>.<br /> -Beaufort, Cardinal, <a href="#page_353">353</a>.<br /> -Beaugency, <a href="#page_045">45</a>.<br /> -Beaujeu, Suzanne de, <a href="#page_246">246</a>.<br /> -Beauvais—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Basse Œuvre</i>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bishops of, <a href="#page_344">344-346</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_341">341-342</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_342">342-347</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jacquerie revolts, <a href="#page_325">325-329</a>, <a href="#page_343">343-344</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jeanne Hachette, story of, <a href="#page_346">346-347</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sieges of, <a href="#page_130">130-133</a>, <a href="#page_344">344-345</a>.</span><br /> -Beauvais, Collège de, <a href="#page_345">345</a>.<br /> -Benedict, St., <a href="#page_370">370</a>.<br /> -Benedictines of St. Denis, Paris, <a href="#page_381">381-384</a>.<br /> -Benvenuto, Cellini, <a href="#page_248">248</a>.<br /> -Bernard of Auxerre, legend of, <a href="#page_309">309-310</a>.<br /> -Bernard of Clairvaulx, St., <a href="#page_370">370</a>.<br /> -Bertrand, St., <a href="#page_167">167</a>.<br /> -Bessin, district, description, <a href="#page_104">104-106</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>.<br /> -Bienheuré, St., <a href="#page_216">216</a>.<br /> -“Black Death,” <a href="#page_126">126</a>.<br /> -Black Prince, siege of Limoges, <a href="#page_252">252-253</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Battle of Poitiers, <a href="#page_274">274-279</a>.</span><br /> -Blois—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral of St. Louis, <a href="#page_192">192-193</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Château of, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_194">194-200</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">tragedy of the, <a href="#page_197">197-200</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Nicholas, <a href="#page_193">193-194</a>.</span><br /> -Blücher, siege of Soissons, <a href="#page_057">57</a>.<br /> -Boileau, “Lutrin,” <a href="#page_378">378</a>.<br /> -Bon Secours Convent, Rouen, <a href="#page_073">73</a>.<br /> -Bond, Mr., <i>cited</i>, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_051">51</a>, <a href="#page_077">77</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_093">93</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a>, <a href="#page_309">309</a>.<br /> -Bononia, ancient town of, <a href="#page_019">19</a>.<br /> -Bordeaux—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_292">292</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Description, <a href="#page_289">289-291</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_290">290-291</a>.</span><br /> -Bossuet, sketch of his career, <a href="#page_330">330-335</a>.<br /> -Boucher, the painter of Versailles, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.<br /> -Boucher, treasurer of Orléans, <a href="#page_223">223</a>.<br /> -Bouillon, Godfrey de, <a href="#page_022">22</a>.<br /> -Boulogne—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_021">21</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_015">15-21</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Porte Gayole, <a href="#page_021">21</a>.</span><br /> -Bourdaloue, <a href="#page_228">228</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> -Bourges—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_235">235-236</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_227">227-234</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">House of Jacques Cœur, <a href="#page_232">232</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roman wall of, <a href="#page_337">337</a>.</span><br /> -Boy, Jehan le, <a href="#page_094">94</a>.<br /> -Brétigny, Peace of, <a href="#page_280">280</a>.<br /> -Bricqueville-Colombières. <i>See</i> Colombières.<br /> -Buch, Captal de, <a href="#page_326">326-329</a>.<br /> -Buckingham, Duke of, attack on La Rochelle, <a href="#page_282">282-286</a>.<br /> -Bulet, M., “Dictionnaire Celtique,” <a href="#page_357">357</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="C" id="C"></a>Caen—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Abbaye aux Dames, <a href="#page_118">118-119</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Stephen, <a href="#page_118">118-119</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">burial of William I. in, <a href="#page_120">120-124</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_116">116-127</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Truce of God, <a href="#page_122">122-125</a>.</span><br /> -Cæsar, Julius, convocation of the Parisii, <a href="#page_356">356-359</a>.<br /> -Calixtus, Pope, <a href="#page_231">231</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">council at Rheims, <a href="#page_047">47</a>.</span><br /> -Calvados district, <a href="#page_116">116</a>.<br /> -Candes, <a href="#page_184">184</a>.<br /> -Canterbury Cathedral, <a href="#page_032">32</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">choir of, <a href="#page_301">301</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a>, <a href="#page_309">309</a>.</span><br /> -Cardinal de la Grange, Chapel of, <a href="#page_027">27</a>, <a href="#page_028">28</a>.<br /> -Carentan, fall of, <a href="#page_139">139</a>.<br /> -Castile, <a href="#page_292">292</a>.<br /> -Cathedrals—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Amiens, <a href="#page_027">27-37</a>, <a href="#page_075">75</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Angers, St. Maurice, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_179">179-180</a>.<a name="page_387" id="page_387"></a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Angoulême, St. Pierre, <a href="#page_268">268-270</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Auxerre, St. Etienne, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_302">302-310</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bayeux, <a href="#page_109">109-110</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Beauvais, <a href="#page_341">341-342</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Blois, St. Louis, <a href="#page_192">192-193</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bordeaux, <a href="#page_292">292</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Boulogne, <a href="#page_021">21</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bourges, <a href="#page_235">235-236</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chartres, <a href="#page_207">207-211</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Coutances, <a href="#page_149">149</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Evreux, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_093">93-94</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">La Rochelle, <a href="#page_289">289</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lâon, <a href="#page_039">39-42</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Le Mans, St. Julien, <a href="#page_161">161-163</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Limoges, St. Etienne, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_262">262</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lisieux, <a href="#page_096">96</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Meaux, <a href="#page_324">324-325</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Moulins, <a href="#page_251">251</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nevers, St. Cyr, <a href="#page_240">240-243</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Orléans, <a href="#page_224">224</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Paris, Notre Dames, <a href="#page_365">365</a>, <a href="#page_369">369-371</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">the old St. Etienne, <a href="#page_363">363-364</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Périgueux, St. Etienne, <a href="#page_262">262</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Poitiers, St. Pierre, <a href="#page_270">270-273</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rheims, <a href="#page_048">48-51</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rouen, Notre Dame, <a href="#page_074">74-82</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Saint-Lô, <a href="#page_133">133-134</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Senlis, Notre Dame, <a href="#page_338">338-341</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sens, St. Etienne, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_300">300-305</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Soissons, Notre Dame, <a href="#page_057">57-61</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tours, St. Gatien, <a href="#page_188">188-193</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Troyes, <a href="#page_319">319-322</a>.</span><br /> -Catherine, wife of Henry V., betrothal, <a href="#page_313">313-314</a>.<br /> -Catulliacum, <a href="#page_381">381</a>.<br /> -Cauchon, Bishop Pierre, trial of Joan of Arc, <a href="#page_067">67-72</a>, <a href="#page_344">344-345</a>.<br /> -Caxton, <a href="#page_106">106</a>.<br /> -Celts, Saxon opposition in the Bessin, <a href="#page_104">104</a>.<br /> -Chambord, <a href="#page_192">192</a>.<br /> -Champagne, Counts of, <a href="#page_310">310-313</a>.<br /> -Changé, storming of, <a href="#page_158">158-161</a>.<br /> -Chanzy, General, defence of Le Mans, <a href="#page_157">157-159</a>.<br /> -Chapelle de la Fierte Saint-Romain, legend of, <a href="#page_078">78-82</a>.<br /> -Charente, the, <a href="#page_289">289-290</a>.<br /> -Charlemagne, the, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_360">360</a>.<br /> -Charles I. of England, <a href="#page_282">282</a>.<br /> -Charles V., Emperor, <a href="#page_024">24</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>.<br /> -Charles VII., pusillanimity of, <a href="#page_045">45-46</a>, <a href="#page_350">350-354</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">attempt on Rouen, <a href="#page_072">72</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reparation to Coutances, <a href="#page_140">140</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“King of Bourges,” <a href="#page_227">227</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">spoliation of Jacques Cœur, <a href="#page_231">231</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">proclaimed at Poitiers, <a href="#page_280">280</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">crowning, <a href="#page_291">291</a>.</span><br /> -Charles IX., <a href="#page_197">197</a>.<br /> -Charles X., <a href="#page_048">48</a>.<br /> -Charles the Bold, attack on Beauvais, <a href="#page_346">346-347</a>.<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Fat, policy of, <a href="#page_361">361</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Simple, <a href="#page_041">41</a>, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_361">361</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Poet-Duke, <a href="#page_197">197</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Prince Frederick, <a href="#page_156">156</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">taking of Le Mans, <a href="#page_158">158-161</a>.</span><br /> -Chartier, Alain, the “Curiale,” <a href="#page_105">105-106</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">“Bréviare des Nobles,” <a href="#page_106">106-107</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Guillaume, <a href="#page_107">107</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jean, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>.</span><br /> -Chartres—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_207">207-211</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Counts of, <a href="#page_202">202-205</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Franco-Prussian War, capitulation, <a href="#page_206">206-207</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Henry V. crowned at, <a href="#page_205">205</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_201">201-207</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Porte Guillaume, <a href="#page_202">202</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tour-de-Ville, <a href="#page_201">201-202</a>.</span><br /> -Château—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barrière, Périgueux, <a href="#page_258">258-261</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Blois, <a href="#page_194">194-200</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">the Guise tragedy, <a href="#page_197">197-200</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Moulins, <a href="#page_248">248</a>.</span><br /> -Châteaudun, <a href="#page_206">206-207</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fall of, <a href="#page_212">212-215</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Château, <a href="#page_215">215</a>.</span><br /> -Châteauneuf, <a href="#page_184">184</a>.<br /> -Chaumont, <a href="#page_192">192</a>.<br /> -Chauvigny on the Vienne, <a href="#page_277">277</a>.<br /> -Chenonceaux, <a href="#page_192">192</a>.<br /> -Childebert, churches built by, <a href="#page_363">363-364</a>, <a href="#page_372">372-375</a>.<br /> -Christianity, introduction into Gaul, <a href="#page_006">6-7</a>.<br /> -Churches, Abbey or Collegiate, <a href="#page_052">52-53</a>.<br /> -Clovis, first king of Paris, <a href="#page_047">47</a>, <a href="#page_056">56</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_360">360</a>.<br /> -Cluny Monastery, <a href="#page_383">383</a>.<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Musée de, <a href="#page_363">363-364</a>.</span><br /> -Cœur, Jacques, story of, <a href="#page_231">231</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">house at Bourges, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.<a name="page_388" id="page_388"></a></span><br /> -Cognac, <a href="#page_253">253</a>.<br /> -Coligny, <a href="#page_282">282</a>.<br /> -Cologne Cathedral, <a href="#page_342">342</a>.<br /> -Colombières, the Huguenot defence of Saint-Lô, <a href="#page_129">129-130</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">attacks on Coutances, <a href="#page_143">143</a>.</span><br /> -“Colonne de la Grande Armée,” Boulogne, <a href="#page_020">20</a>.<br /> -Commune, founding of the, <a href="#page_152">152-153</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">established at Sens, <a href="#page_300">300</a>.</span><br /> -Compiègne, siege of, <a href="#page_344">344-345</a>.<br /> -Condé, <a href="#page_282">282</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> -Condom, Bossuet Bishop of, <a href="#page_334">334</a>.<br /> -Constable de Bourbon, Charles, story of, <a href="#page_245">245-248</a>.<br /> -Constantine the Great, <a href="#page_137">137</a>.<br /> -Constantius Chlorus fortifies Coutances, <a href="#page_137">137</a>.<br /> -Corday, Charlotte, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a>.<br /> -Cordeliers—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church at Toulouse, <a href="#page_292">292</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Convent of, the, at Saint-Émilion, <a href="#page_297">297</a>.</span><br /> -Corporations, Gaulish, <a href="#page_358">358-359</a>.<br /> -Côtentin, the, <a href="#page_137">137</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barons of, <a href="#page_138">138</a>.</span><br /> -Coucy, Robert de, building of Rheims Cathedral, <a href="#page_048">48-51</a>.<br /> -Coutances—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bishops of, <a href="#page_145">145</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bricqueville-Colombières, <a href="#page_143">143</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_145">145-146</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Pierre, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_136">136-146</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jardin, Public, <a href="#page_149">149</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mediæval customs, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Musée, the, <a href="#page_149">149</a>.</span><br /> -Crécy, <a href="#page_139">139</a>.<br /> -Crusades, <a href="#page_022">22-23</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Freeman <i>quoted</i> (see also Truce of God), <a href="#page_124">124-125</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="D" id="D"></a>Daboval, M., <a href="#page_040">40</a>.<br /> -Dagobert, King, story of, <a href="#page_078">78</a>, <a href="#page_382">382</a>.<br /> -“Danse Macabre” in the Aître de St. Maclou, <a href="#page_083">83-84</a>.<br /> -Dante, <a href="#page_370">370</a>.<br /> -Darnley Stuarts, the, <a href="#page_090">90</a>.<br /> -Defensor, ruler of Le Mans, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.<br /> -Denis, St., <a href="#page_359">359</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Legend of, <a href="#page_381">381-382</a>.</span><br /> -Derby, Earl of, relief of Angoulême, <a href="#page_267">267</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>.<br /> -Dionysius the Areopagite, <a href="#page_359">359</a>.<br /> -Domrémy, <a href="#page_045">45</a>.<br /> -Don Pedro, dispute of, <a href="#page_291">291-292</a>.<br /> -Dordogne, the, <a href="#page_292">292</a>.<br /> -Dormans, Jean de, Bishop of Beauvais, account of, <a href="#page_345">345-346</a>.<br /> -Dunois, Captain, <a href="#page_219">219-220</a>, <a href="#page_354">354</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="E" id="E"></a>Edict of Nantes, revocation, effect in Troyes, <a href="#page_315">315-316</a>.<br /> -Edward I., the <i>Villes bastides</i> of, <a href="#page_293">293</a>.<br /> -Edward III., campaign in France, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_139">139-140</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a>.<br /> -Eleanor of Castile, <a href="#page_023">23</a>.<br /> -Eleanor of Poitou, <a href="#page_100">100</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dowry, <a href="#page_279">279-280</a>, <a href="#page_290">290-291</a>.</span><br /> -Eleutherius, St., <a href="#page_359">359</a>.<br /> -Emilion the Hermit, <a href="#page_294">294</a>.<br /> -Enamel workers of Limoges, <a href="#page_251">251</a>, <a href="#page_254">254-258</a>.<br /> -English influence on French architecture, <a href="#page_075">75-77</a>.<br /> -Enlart, M., “Manuel d’Archéologie Française,” <a href="#page_032">32</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on origin of Flamboyant Style, <a href="#page_075">75</a>.</span><br /> -Eudes, Count of Paris, <a href="#page_361">361</a>.<br /> -Eudes de Clément, <a href="#page_383">383</a>.<br /> -Eureptiolus, Bishop of Coutances, <a href="#page_145">145</a>.<br /> -Evans, geologist, <a href="#page_021">21</a>.<br /> -Evreux—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Boulevard Chambaudin, <a href="#page_093">93</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_074">74</a>, <a href="#page_093">93-84</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Taurin, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_095">95</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Description, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_089">89-92</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rue Josephine, <a href="#page_094">94-95</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="F" id="F"></a>Faidherbe, General, <a href="#page_084">84</a>.<br /> -Faïence industry at Nevers, <a href="#page_244">244</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Limoges, <a href="#page_251">251-254</a>.</span><br /> -Falaise, <a href="#page_126">126</a>.<br /> -Felton, John, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.<br /> -Fénélon, Abbé, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> -Fergusson, <i>cited</i>, <a href="#page_053">53</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>.<br /> -Ferri, Paul, Calvinist, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> -Feuquières, Marquis de, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> -“Five Sisters” at York, <a href="#page_103">103</a>.<br /> -Flamboyant Style, M. Enlart’s paper on origin, <a href="#page_075">75</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">principal features, <a href="#page_075">75-76</a>.</span><br /> -Fleury, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> -Foix, Earl of, relief of the ladies of Meaux, <a href="#page_325">325-326</a>.<a name="page_389" id="page_389"></a><br /> -Fortunatus’ description of St. Etienne, Paris, <a href="#page_363">363-364</a>.<br /> -Francis I., connection with Abbeville, <a href="#page_024">24</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Manoir de François 1<sup>er</sup>,” Lisieux, <a href="#page_096">96</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Charles de Montpensier, <a href="#page_245">245-247</a>, <a href="#page_169">169</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">development of enamel painting, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</span><br /> -Franco-Prussian War, incidents in Rouen, <a href="#page_084">84-87</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">incidents near Le Mans, <a href="#page_156">156-161</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Times</i> Correspondent, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_156">156-161</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">capitulation of Chartres, <a href="#page_206">206-207</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">occupation of Orléans, <a href="#page_224">224</a>.</span><br /> -Freeman, <i>cited</i>, <a href="#page_002">2</a>, <a href="#page_042">42</a>, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_104">104-105</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_122">122-125</a>, <a href="#page_179">179-180</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_277">277</a>.<br /> -Froissart, <i>cited</i>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, <a href="#page_343">343</a>.<br /> -Fulk the Black, Count of Anjou, <a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_171">171-172</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>.<br /> -Fulk the Good, Count of Anjou, <a href="#page_170">170-171</a>.<br /> -Fulk the Red, Count of Anjou, <a href="#page_170">170</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="G" id="G"></a>Gabelle tax, imposed by Richelieu, <a href="#page_144">144</a>.<br /> -Gallic cities, origin of, <a href="#page_005">5-6</a>.<br /> -Gargoyle, the, of Rouen, legend regarding, <a href="#page_081">81-82</a>.<br /> -Garlande, Etienne de, restoration of Sainte-Marie, <a href="#page_364">364-365</a>.<br /> -Garonne, port of the, <a href="#page_292">292</a>.<br /> -Gatianus, St., <a href="#page_183">183</a>.<br /> -Gaudry, Bishop, <a href="#page_040">40</a>.<br /> -Gaul, ancient traces in town names, <a href="#page_005">5-6</a>.<br /> -Geoffrey the Hammer, Count of Anjou, <a href="#page_172">172-173</a>.<br /> -Geoffrey, Count of Gascony, <a href="#page_248">248</a>.<br /> -Geoffrey of Mayenne, swears the Civil oath, <a href="#page_155">155</a>.<br /> -Geoffrey Plantagenet, <a href="#page_099">99</a>.<br /> -Geoffroy de Montbray, Bishop of Coutances, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>.<br /> -Geological discoveries in the Somme Valley, <a href="#page_021">21-22</a>.<br /> -Germain, St., <a href="#page_309">309</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a>.<br /> -Gersendis, Countess, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.<br /> -Gervase, <i>cited</i>, <a href="#page_032">32</a>.<br /> -Gesoriacum, Roman town, <a href="#page_019">19</a>.<br /> -Gilbert of Evreux, <a href="#page_121">121</a>.<br /> -Gilbert of Lisieux, <a href="#page_121">121-122</a>.<br /> -Girondists at Caen, <a href="#page_126">126-127</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Saint-Émilion, <a href="#page_297">297-298</a>.</span><br /> -Gisors, <a href="#page_047">47</a>.<br /> -Gloucester Cathedral, <a href="#page_093">93</a>.<br /> -Gonzagas, occupation of Nevers, <a href="#page_244">244</a>.<br /> -Green Croft, Cambridge, <a href="#page_274">274</a>.<br /> -“Grotte de Saint-Émilion,” <a href="#page_297">297</a>.<br /> -Guesclin, Bertrand de, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_280">280</a>.<br /> -Guilds, Craftsmen’s, in Paris, <a href="#page_360">360</a>.<br /> -Guise, Cardinal de, <a href="#page_199">199-200</a>.<br /> -Guise, Henri de, tragedy of, <a href="#page_197">197-198</a>.<br /> -<i>Guyale</i>, meetings of the, <a href="#page_021">21</a>.<br /> -Guyenne, <i>villes bastides</i> of, <a href="#page_293">293</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="H" id="H"></a>Hachette, Jeanne, bravery of, <a href="#page_346">346-347</a>.<br /> -Hadouin, St., tomb of, <a href="#page_164">164</a>.<br /> -Hagano, Bishop, <a href="#page_125">125</a>.<br /> -Hamerton, Mr., “Paris in Old and Present Times,” <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_365">365-366</a>.<br /> -Ham-sur-Somme, Castle of, <a href="#page_021">21</a>.<br /> -Harcourt, Geoffrey d’, <a href="#page_140">140</a>.<br /> -Harold of Denmark, <a href="#page_066">66</a>.<br /> -Headlam, Mr. Cecil, “Story of Chartres,” <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_206">206-207</a>.<br /> -Héloise, <a href="#page_383">383</a>.<br /> -Henry I., burning of Evreux, <a href="#page_090">90</a>.<br /> -Henry II., marriage at Lisieux, <a href="#page_100">100</a>.<br /> -Henry III., <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_197">197</a>.<br /> -Henry IV., of Navarre, crowned at Chartres, <a href="#page_045">45</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">entry into Rouen, <a href="#page_073">73</a>.</span><br /> -Henry V., <a href="#page_067">67</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Agincourt, <a href="#page_197">197</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">betrothal in Troyes, <a href="#page_313">313-314</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">siege of Meaux, <a href="#page_329">329-330</a>.</span><br /> -Henry VIII., siege of Boulogne, <a href="#page_019">19</a>.<br /> -Heremas, Abbot, <a href="#page_046">46</a>, <a href="#page_047">47</a>.<br /> -Herodotus, <i>cited</i>, <a href="#page_357">357</a>.<br /> -Herlwin, knight, <a href="#page_120">120</a>.<br /> -Hilary, Bishop of Poitiers, <a href="#page_184">184</a>.<br /> -Hildebert, Bishop of Le Mans, <a href="#page_370">370</a>.<br /> -Hoffbauer, M., “Paris à travers les Ages,” <i>cited</i>, <a href="#page_363">363-364</a>.<br /> -Hôtel Rambouillet, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> -Hugh, Capet, <a href="#page_022">22</a>, <a href="#page_362">362</a>, <a href="#page_382">382</a>.<br /> -Hugh of Tours, Abp., <a href="#page_171">171</a>.<br /> -Hugh of Vermandois, <a href="#page_023">23</a>.<br /> -Hugh the Great, <a href="#page_361">361</a>.<br /> -Hugues de Morville, Bp., <a href="#page_145">145</a>.<br /> -Huguenots, troubles at Rouen, <a href="#page_072">72-73</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stronghold at Saint-Lô, <a href="#page_129">129-130</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">attack on Coutances, <a href="#page_143">143</a>;<a name="page_390" id="page_390"></a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">resistance in La Rochelle, <a href="#page_281">281-286</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">massacre in Troyes, <a href="#page_314">314-315</a>.</span><br /> -“Hundred Days,” the, <a href="#page_057">57</a>.<br /> -Hundred Years’ War, effect on French Architecture, <a href="#page_076">76-77</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="I" id="I"></a>Ingelgar, Count of Anjou, <a href="#page_170">170</a>.<br /> -Innocent, Pope, troubles with France, <a href="#page_334">334-335</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="J" id="J"></a>Jacquerie Revolts, <a href="#page_325">325-326</a>, <a href="#page_343">343-344</a>.<br /> -James, Mr. Henry, “Little Tours in France,” <i>cited</i>, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_301">301</a>, <a href="#page_232">232-235</a>.<br /> -Jargeau, capture by Jeanne d’Arc, <a href="#page_045">45</a>.<br /> -Jesus College, Cambridge, <a href="#page_274">274</a>.<br /> -Joan of Arc, Story of, <a href="#page_045">45-46</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">death at Rouen, <a href="#page_067">67-72</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">relief of Orléans, <a href="#page_218">218-223</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">capture of Troyes, <a href="#page_314">314</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">her capture at Beauvais, <a href="#page_344">344-345</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the attempted siege of Paris, <a href="#page_350">350-355</a>.</span><br /> -John, Duke of Bedford, death, <a href="#page_072">72</a>.<br /> -John Lackland, <a href="#page_066">66</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">massacre at Evreux, <a href="#page_090">90</a>.</span><br /> -John of France, at Poitiers, <a href="#page_274">274-279</a>.<br /> -Josephine, Empress, <a href="#page_090">90</a>.<br /> -Julian, Emperor, <a href="#page_359">359-360</a>.<br /> -Julian, St., bishop of Le Mans, <a href="#page_163">163</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tomb of, <a href="#page_164">164</a>.</span><br /> -Jupiter, temple of, St. Etienne, Paris, built on site, <a href="#page_363">363</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="L" id="L"></a>La Beurière quarter of Boulogne, <a href="#page_016">16</a>.<br /> -La Chartre, <a href="#page_158">158</a>.<br /> -La Cité, Paris, <a href="#page_365">365</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Churches of, <a href="#page_365">365-366</a>.</span><br /> -La Hire, Captain, <a href="#page_354">354</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">entry into Orléans, <a href="#page_219">219-220</a>.</span><br /> -La Rochelle—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_289">289</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_281">281-286</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Huguenot resistance, <a href="#page_281">281-286</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tour de la Chaîne, <a href="#page_289">289</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tour de la Lanterne, <a href="#page_289">289</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tour Saint-Nicholas, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Seaport of, <a href="#page_286">286-287</a>.</span><br /> -La Trappe monastery, <a href="#page_335">335</a>.<br /> -La Tremouille, policy of, <a href="#page_354">354</a>.<br /> -La Trinité, Abbey of, Vendôme, <a href="#page_216">216</a>.<br /> -La Vendée, Royalists take Le Mans, <a href="#page_156">156</a>.<br /> -Laack, Church of, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.<br /> -Lâon—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_039">39-42</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_039">39-40</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Type of Gaulish hill-city, <a href="#page_038">38</a>.</span><br /> -Lancelot, M., discovery regarding the Bayeux tapestry, <a href="#page_113">113-114</a>.<br /> -Lanfranc, work in Evreux Cathedral, <a href="#page_093">93</a>.<br /> -Langeais, <a href="#page_192">192</a>.<br /> -Langres Cathedral, <a href="#page_302">302</a>.<br /> -Lanterne des Morts, Bayeux, <a href="#page_108">108</a>.<br /> -Laudus, Bishop, founder of Saint-Lô, <a href="#page_145">145</a>.<br /> -Le Mans—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral of St. Julian, <a href="#page_161">161-163</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Characteristics, <a href="#page_151">151</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Commune founded in, <a href="#page_155">155</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Franco-Prussian War, incidents, <a href="#page_156">156-161</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_151">151-161</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Notre Dame de la Coûture, <a href="#page_163">163-168</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Notre Dame du Pré, <a href="#page_163">163-168</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Place des Jacobins, <a href="#page_161">161</a>.</span><br /> -Le Sauvage, chief of the Nu-Pieds, <a href="#page_145">145</a>.<br /> -Leduc, his “peasant girl” in Saint-Lô, <a href="#page_129">129</a>.<br /> -Lenoir, <a href="#page_383">383</a>.<br /> -Leo IX., Pope, Council at Rheims, <a href="#page_046">46-47</a>.<br /> -Lethaby, Mr., “Mediæval Art,” <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_179">179-180</a>.<br /> -Liane river, the, <a href="#page_019">19</a>.<br /> -Libourne on the Dordogne, <a href="#page_292">292</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>bastides</i> of, <a href="#page_293">293</a>.</span><br /> -Lichfield Cathedral, <a href="#page_075">75</a>.<br /> -Limoges—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral of St. Etienne, <a href="#page_252">252-253</a>, <a href="#page_262">262</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Central” Hotel, <a href="#page_251">251</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Description, <a href="#page_251">251-253</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Enamel workers of, <a href="#page_251">251-254</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_252">252-254</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rue du 71<sup>ième</sup> Mobiles, <a href="#page_254">254</a>.</span><br /> -Lisieux—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Jacques, <a href="#page_099">99</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of St. Pierre, <a href="#page_095">95</a>, <a href="#page_100">100-103</a>.<a name="page_391" id="page_391"></a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Description, <a href="#page_095">95-99</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grande Rue, etc., <a href="#page_096">96</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_099">99-100</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Hospice</i>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rue du Paradis, <a href="#page_103">103</a>.</span><br /> -Limousin, Léonard, enamel work of, <a href="#page_257">257-258</a>.<br /> -Loire, the, <a href="#page_157">157</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">near Angers, <a href="#page_174">174</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">near Touraine, <a href="#page_181">181-182</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Vendôme, <a href="#page_216">216-217</a>.</span><br /> -Lonergan, Mr., “Historic Churches of Paris,” <a href="#page_370">370</a>.<br /> -Louis le Débonnair, <a href="#page_057">57</a>.<br /> -Louis le Jeune, <a href="#page_061">61</a>.<br /> -Louis Philippe, <a href="#page_020">20</a>.<br /> -Louis IX., <a href="#page_139">139</a>; procession through Sens, <a href="#page_300">300</a>.<br /> -Louis XI., <a href="#page_045">45</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">seizure of Boulogne, <a href="#page_019">19</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Plessis-les-Tours, <a href="#page_187">187</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">founds university at Bourges, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</span><br /> -Louis XII., marriage with Mary Tudor, <a href="#page_023">23-24</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">proclamation of, <a href="#page_187">187</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rooms of, in Château de Blois, <a href="#page_196">196</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">and Charles, Constable de Bourbon, <a href="#page_246">246</a>.</span><br /> -Louis XIII., <a href="#page_144">144</a>.<br /> -Louis XIV., <a href="#page_334">334</a>.<br /> -Louis XVIII., restoration of St. Denis, <a href="#page_383">383</a>.<br /> -Loup, Saint, bishop of Auxerre, <a href="#page_309">309</a>.<br /> -Louvre, exhibition of the Bayeux tapestry in the, <a href="#page_114">114</a>.<br /> -Lucian, St., <a href="#page_343">343</a>.<br /> -Luitgarde, third wife of Charlemagne, <a href="#page_187">187</a>.<br /> -Lutetia, <i>see also</i> Paris, <a href="#page_357">357</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ancient emblems, <a href="#page_357">357-358</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="M" id="M"></a>Madeleine, the, Paris, <a href="#page_366">366</a>.<br /> -Madeleine, Troyes, <a href="#page_322">322-323</a>.<br /> -Maine, Bishops and Counts of, <a href="#page_151">151-152</a>.<br /> -Manteuffel, General, <a href="#page_084">84-87</a>.<br /> -Marguerite de Provence, <a href="#page_300">300</a>.<br /> -Marne, the, near Paris, <a href="#page_290">290</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Meaux, <a href="#page_335">335-336</a>.</span><br /> -Martial, St., <a href="#page_252">252</a>.<br /> -Martin, St., <a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_359">359</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">veneration of, <a href="#page_183">183-184</a>.</span><br /> -Martinopolis, <a href="#page_184">184</a>.<br /> -“Martyrdom” and <i>Confessio</i>, terms, <a href="#page_309">309</a>.<br /> -Mascaron of Tulle, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> -Masles, Jean le, <a href="#page_107">107</a>.<br /> -Massillon, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> -Matignon, attack on Saint-Lô, <a href="#page_129">129-130</a>.<br /> -Matilda of Flanders, <a href="#page_117">117</a>.<br /> -Matthieu de Vendôme, <a href="#page_383">383</a>.<br /> -Maupertuis, <a href="#page_277">277</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">plains of, <a href="#page_277">277</a>.</span><br /> -Maxime, Sainte, <a href="#page_309">309</a>.<br /> -Mazarin, Cardinal, <a href="#page_244">244</a>.<br /> -Meaux—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bossuet’s connection with, <a href="#page_330">330-335</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_324">324-325</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Henry V. besieges, <a href="#page_329">329-330</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_325">325-335</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jacquerie revolts, <a href="#page_325">325-329</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mills of, <a href="#page_335">335-336</a>.</span><br /> -Mecklenburg, Duke of, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a>, <a href="#page_161">161</a>.<br /> -Medici, Catherine de’, <a href="#page_197">197</a>.<br /> -Mellon, Saint, <a href="#page_063">63</a>.<br /> -Melun, <a href="#page_358">358</a>.<br /> -Metz, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> -Midi, the, <a href="#page_258">258</a>.<br /> -Mittelzal, church of, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.<br /> -Monstrelet, <i>cited</i>, <a href="#page_313">313-314</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a>.<br /> -Montbray, Bishop de, <a href="#page_138">138</a>.<br /> -Montbray, Cathedral de, demolished by the Huguenots, <a href="#page_143">143</a>.<br /> -Montereau, Pierre de, <a href="#page_376">376</a>.<br /> -Montfaucon, discovery regarding the Bayeux tapestry, <a href="#page_113">113</a>.<br /> -Montrichard, <a href="#page_192">192</a>.<br /> -Morard, Abbot, <a href="#page_375">375</a>.<br /> -Morinière, Quesnel, house in Coutances, <a href="#page_149">149</a>.<br /> -Moulins—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_251">251</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Château Mal-Coiffée, <a href="#page_248">248</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Constable de Bourbon, story of, <a href="#page_245">245-248</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Norman invasion of, <a href="#page_248">248-251</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Tour de l’Horloge,” <a href="#page_245">245</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="N" id="N"></a>Napoleon Bonaparte, <a href="#page_020">20</a>, <a href="#page_090">90-93</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>.<br /> -Napoleon III., <a href="#page_020">20</a>.<br /> -Nautæ Parisiaci, the, <a href="#page_357">357-359</a>.<br /> -Nautæ Tiberis of Rome, <a href="#page_358">358-359</a>.<br /> -Navarre, King of, punishment of the “Jacquerie,” <a href="#page_344">344</a>.<a name="page_392" id="page_392"></a><br /> -Nevers—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral of St. Cyr, <a href="#page_240">240-243</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Etienne, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_239">239-240</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Counts of, <a href="#page_236">236-239</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ducal Palace, <a href="#page_243">243</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Faïence industry in, <a href="#page_244">244</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_236">236-239</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Porte du Croux, <a href="#page_243">243-244</a>.</span><br /> -Nicholas V., Pope, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.<br /> -Nicolle, tax-gatherer, <a href="#page_144">144-145</a>.<br /> -Nîmes, amphitheatre of, <a href="#page_358">358-359</a>.<br /> -Normandy—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Confiscation by Philippe Auguste, <a href="#page_066">66-67</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Truce of God in, <a href="#page_122">122-125</a>.</span><br /> -Norwich, Sir John, defence of Angoulême, <a href="#page_267">267-268</a>.<br /> -Notre Dame d’Evreux, <a href="#page_074">74</a>, <a href="#page_093">93-94</a>.<br /> -Notre Dame de la Coûture, Le Mans, <a href="#page_163">163-164</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a>.<br /> -Notre Dame de Lâon, <a href="#page_039">39-42</a>.<br /> -Notre Dame de Paris, <a href="#page_365">365</a>, <a href="#page_369">369-371</a>.<br /> -Notre Dame de Rouen, <a href="#page_074">74-82</a>.<br /> -Notre Dame de Saint-Lô, <a href="#page_133">133-134</a>.<br /> -Notre Dame de Senlis, <a href="#page_338">338-341</a>.<br /> -Notre Dame de Soissons, <a href="#page_057">57-61</a>.<br /> -Notre Dame du Pré, Le Mans, <a href="#page_163">163-168</a>.<br /> -Notre Dame la Grande, Poitiers, <a href="#page_274">274</a>.<br /> -Noviodunum, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.<br /> -Noyon, crownings at, <a href="#page_042">42-45</a>.<br /> -Nu-pieds, revolt of the, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_144">144-145</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="O" id="O"></a>Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, connection with the tapestry, <a href="#page_114">114</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">life story of, <a href="#page_115">115-116</a>.</span><br /> -Odo of Chartres, <a href="#page_205">205</a>.<br /> -Oger the Dane, <a href="#page_064">64</a>.<br /> -Orléans—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_224">224</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Bonnet, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crownings at, <a href="#page_045">45</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_218">218-224</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Les Augustin’s, fortress of, <a href="#page_219">219</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Porte Regnart, <a href="#page_220">220</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Prussian occupation, <a href="#page_224">224</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Relief of, <a href="#page_218">218-223</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Saint Loup, <a href="#page_219">219</a>.</span><br /> -Orléans, Charles d’, <a href="#page_106">106</a>.<br /> -Orléans, Gaston d’, <a href="#page_197">197</a>.<br /> -Orléans-Longueville, François d’, <a href="#page_215">215</a>.<br /> -Our Lady of Victories, Joan of Arc’s dedication, <a href="#page_354">354-355</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="P" id="P"></a>Paris—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bossuet’s sermons, <a href="#page_333">333-334</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cæsar’s convocation of the</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parisii, <a href="#page_356">356-358</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chapels of, <a href="#page_365">365-366</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Collège de Beauvais, <a href="#page_345">345-346</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Early importance, <a href="#page_362">362-363</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Frankish seizure of, <a href="#page_360">360</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_348">348-363</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">La Cité, <a href="#page_365">365</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Churches of, <a href="#page_365">365-366</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lutetia, ancient trade of, <a href="#page_359">359</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Madeleine, the old, chapels of, <a href="#page_366">366-369</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Notre Dame, <a href="#page_365">365</a>, <a href="#page_369">369-371</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pont Notre Dame, <a href="#page_358">358-362</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rue des Marmousets, <a href="#page_366">366</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Saint Denis, Benedictine foundation, <a href="#page_381">381-384</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Saint Etienne, the first Cathedral, <a href="#page_363">363-364</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Saint Germain-des-Prés, Abbey, Church of, <a href="#page_372">372-376</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Saint Louis, Chapel of, <a href="#page_365">365</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Saint Michael du Palais, <a href="#page_366">366</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Saint Pierre aux Bœufs, Chapel of, <a href="#page_366">366</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Saint Chapelle, <a href="#page_375">375-381</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Saint Marie, <a href="#page_365">365</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Salle des Pas Perdus,” <a href="#page_378">378</a>.</span><br /> -Parisian Navigation, the, <a href="#page_357">357-358</a>.<br /> -“Parisii,” meaning of term, <a href="#page_357">357</a>.<br /> -Parker “Glossary,” <a href="#page_031">31</a>.<br /> -Patay, battle of, <a href="#page_045">45</a>.<br /> -Pater, Walter, “Miscellaneous Studies,” <i>cited</i>, <a href="#page_036">36-37</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Imaginary Portraits,” <i>cited</i>, <a href="#page_305">305-306</a>.</span><br /> -Père-la-Chaise Cemetery, <a href="#page_346">346</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a>.<br /> -Périgord, Cardinal de, <a href="#page_278">278</a>.<br /> -Périgueux—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral of St. Etienne, <a href="#page_262">262</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Château Barrière, <a href="#page_258">258-261</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of Saint Front, <a href="#page_258">258-266</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">La Cité, <a href="#page_262">262</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tour de Vésone, <a href="#page_258">258-261</a>.</span><br /> -Perpendicular Style in England, <a href="#page_076">76</a>.<br /> -Perpetuus, St., <a href="#page_184">184</a>.<br /> -Perthes, Boucher de, <a href="#page_023">23</a>.<a name="page_393" id="page_393"></a><br /> -Peter the Hermit, <a href="#page_022">22</a>.<br /> -Philippe Auguste, confiscation, <a href="#page_066">66-67</a>, <a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_291">291</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baptism of, <a href="#page_366">366</a>.</span><br /> -Pierre, Bishop of Chartres, <a href="#page_370">370</a>.<br /> -Plessis-les-Tours, <a href="#page_187">187-188</a>.<br /> -Poitiers—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Battle of, <a href="#page_274">274-279</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral of St. Pierre, <a href="#page_270">270-273</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of Notre Dame la Grande, <a href="#page_274">274</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Saint Radégonde, <a href="#page_274">274</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_279">279-280</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Temple Saint Jean, <a href="#page_273">273</a>.</span><br /> -Poitou in English hands, <a href="#page_279">279-280</a>.<br /> -Pomerantin, Castle of, <a href="#page_277">277</a>.<br /> -Pont Notre Dame, <a href="#page_358">358</a>, <a href="#page_362">362</a>.<br /> -Ponts d’Ouve, the, <a href="#page_139">139</a>.<br /> -Porches of French Cathedrals, evolution from the narthex, <a href="#page_319">319-322</a>.<br /> -Porte du Croux, Nevers, <a href="#page_243">243-244</a>.<br /> -Porte Gayole, Boulogne, <a href="#page_021">21</a>.<br /> -Potentian, St., <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_300">300</a>.<br /> -Poupinel, <a href="#page_144">144</a>.<br /> -“Précieuses,” the, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.<br /> -Presle, Collège de, <a href="#page_346">346</a>.<br /> -Prestwick, <a href="#page_023">23</a>.<br /> -Prout, drawings, <a href="#page_024">24</a>, <a href="#page_036">36</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="Q" id="Q"></a>Queen Eleanor’s Cross, Northampton, <a href="#page_077">77</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="R" id="R"></a>Radégonde, Saint, <a href="#page_274">274</a>.<br /> -Ratuma or Ratumacos, early name of Rouen, <a href="#page_063">63</a>.<br /> -Raymond of Toulouse, <a href="#page_023">23</a>.<br /> -Ravenna, <a href="#page_309">309</a>.<br /> -Ré, Island of, <a href="#page_282">282</a>.<br /> -Remigius, St., legend of, <a href="#page_047">47-48</a>.<br /> -Rheims—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_048">48-51</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Remi, <a href="#page_052">52-53</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_042">42-50</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hôtel de Moulinet, <a href="#page_053">53</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Joan the Maid, story of, <a href="#page_045">45-46</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Papal Councils, <a href="#page_046">46-47</a>.</span><br /> -Rheims, Archbishop of, policy, <a href="#page_354">354</a>.<br /> -Richard the Fearless, <a href="#page_066">66</a>, <a href="#page_090">90</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brought up at Bayeux, <a href="#page_105">105</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his widow builds Coutances Cathedral, <a href="#page_145">145</a>.</span><br /> -Richard II., birthplace at Bordeaux, <a href="#page_291">291</a>.<br /> -Richelieu imposes the Gabelle tax, <a href="#page_144">144-145</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">siege of the Huguenots of La Rochelle, <a href="#page_282">282-286</a>.</span><br /> -Richemont, Constable de, <a href="#page_140">140</a>.<br /> -Robert d’Artois, <a href="#page_300">300</a>.<br /> -Robert of Flanders, <a href="#page_023">23</a>.<br /> -Robert of Lisieux, Bishop of Coutances, <a href="#page_145">145</a>.<br /> -Robert of Normandy, <a href="#page_022">22</a>, <a href="#page_066">66</a>.<br /> -Robert of Paris, loss of Neustria, <a href="#page_064">64-65</a>.<br /> -Rolf the Ganger, <a href="#page_019">19</a>, <a href="#page_062">62</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">invasion of Rouen, <a href="#page_064">64</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">conversion, <a href="#page_065">65-66</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">settlement of Lisieux, <a href="#page_099">99-100</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">possession of Bayeux, <a href="#page_104">104</a>.</span><br /> -Romain, St., Bishop of Rouen, legend, <a href="#page_081">81-82</a>.<br /> -Roman Conquest, effect on Gaul, <a href="#page_005">5-10</a>.<br /> -Roman de Rou, the, <a href="#page_065">65</a>.<br /> -Roman Remains, Basilica of Angers, <a href="#page_052">52</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Périgueux, <a href="#page_258">258-261</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Bourges, <a href="#page_261">261</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Practorium Ramparts at Senlis, <a href="#page_336">336-337</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Palace of the Thermes, near Paris, <a href="#page_357">357</a>.</span><br /> -Rouen—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Aître de St. Maclou, <a href="#page_083">83-84</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Basse-Vieille-Tour, <a href="#page_078">78</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_074">74-82</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chapelle de la Fierte Saint-Romain, <a href="#page_078">78-81</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Maclou, <a href="#page_083">83</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Ouen, <a href="#page_082">82-83</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Description of, <a href="#page_073">73-74</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Franco-Prussian War, incidents, <a href="#page_084">84-87</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_062">62-75</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Huguenot troubles, <a href="#page_072">72-73</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jeanne d’Arc, trial of, <a href="#page_067">67-72</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Market-place, <a href="#page_045">45</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Place and Haute-Vielle-Tour, <a href="#page_078">78</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rue Martainville, <a href="#page_083">83</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tour Jeanne d’Arc, <a href="#page_067">67</a>.</span><br /> -Roy, General, <a href="#page_084">84</a>.<br /> -Ruskin, criticisms on Abbeville, <a href="#page_027">27</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Amiens Cathedral, <a href="#page_028">28</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on Rouen Churches, <a href="#page_074">74-75</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Diary, <i>quoted</i>—Amiens Cathedral by the Somme, <a href="#page_032">32-36</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">drawings of Abbeville, <a href="#page_027">27</a>.</span><br /> -Rusticus, St., <a href="#page_359">359</a>.<a name="page_394" id="page_394"></a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="S" id="S"></a>Saint Aignan, Churches of, <a href="#page_366">366</a>.<br /> -Saint Bonnet, Church of, Orléans, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.<br /> -Saint Clair-sur-Epte, treaty at, <a href="#page_064">64</a>.<br /> -Saint Cyr, Cathedral, Nevers, <a href="#page_240">240-243</a>.<br /> -Saint Denis, Paris, Benedictine Foundation, <a href="#page_381">381-384</a>.<br /> -Saint Etienne, Auxerre, <a href="#page_305">305-306</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Limoges, <a href="#page_252">252-253</a>, <a href="#page_262">262</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nevers, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_239">239-240</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Paris, <a href="#page_363">363-364</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sens, <a href="#page_300">300-305</a>.</span><br /> -Saint Eureptiolus, Basilica of, Coutances, <a href="#page_138">138</a>.<br /> -Saint Eusébe, Church of, Auxerre, <a href="#page_310">310</a>.<br /> -Saint Front, Church of, Périguex, <a href="#page_258">258-261</a>.<br /> -Saint Gall, Church of, Switzerland, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.<br /> -Saint Gatien, Cathedral, Tours, <a href="#page_337">337-338</a>.<br /> -Saint George’s Chapel, Windsor, <a href="#page_051">51</a>.<br /> -Saint Germain, Church of, Auxerre, <a href="#page_305">305-309</a>.<br /> -Saint Germain-des-Prés, Abbey, Church, Paris, <a href="#page_372">372-376</a>.<br /> -Saint Germain-le-Vieux, <a href="#page_366">366</a>.<br /> -Saint Jacques, Church of, Lisieux, <a href="#page_099">99</a>.<br /> -Saint Jean des Vignes, Soissons, <a href="#page_061">61</a>.<br /> -Saint Jean, temple of, Poitiers, <a href="#page_273">273</a>.<br /> -Saint Julien, Cathedral, Le Mans, <a href="#page_161">161-163</a>.<br /> -Saint Julien du Pré, Le Mans, <a href="#page_163">163-167</a>.<br /> -Saint Lizier, Roman Walls of, <a href="#page_337">337</a>.<br /> -Saint-Lô —<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Basse Ville, the, <a href="#page_130">130</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, <a href="#page_133">133-134</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_128">128-138</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Maison Dieu, <a href="#page_133">133</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Place Ferrier, <a href="#page_129">129</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rue Torterton, <a href="#page_128">128</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tour Beauregard, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tour de la Rose, <a href="#page_130">130</a>.</span><br /> -Saint Louis, Cathedral of, Blois, <a href="#page_192">192-193</a>.<br /> -Saint Maclou, Rouen, <a href="#page_083">83</a>.<br /> -Saint Mark’s, Venice, influence on style of Saint Fronte, <a href="#page_262">262-263</a>.<br /> -Saint Martin, Church of, Tours, <a href="#page_052">52</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fort of, on the Island of Ré, <a href="#page_282">282</a>.</span><br /> -Saint Maurice, Cathedral, Angers, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_179">179-180</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>.<br /> -Saint Médard, Abbey of, Soissons, <a href="#page_057">57</a>.<br /> -Saint Michael du Palais, Paris, <a href="#page_366">366-369</a>.<br /> -Saint Nicholas, Church of, Blois, <a href="#page_193">193-194</a>.<br /> -Saint Pierre, Cathedral, Angoulême, <a href="#page_269">269-273</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church, Auxerre, <a href="#page_305">305</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Coutances, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lisieux, <a href="#page_095">95</a>, <a href="#page_100">100-103</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Poitiers, <a href="#page_270">270-273</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Senlis, <a href="#page_337">337-338</a>.</span><br /> -Saint Remi, Church of, Rheims, <a href="#page_052">52-53</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Monastery of, <a href="#page_046">46-47</a>.</span><br /> -Saint Sauveur-le-Vicomte, Château of, <a href="#page_140">140</a>.<br /> -Saint Stephen’s, Caen, burial of William I., <a href="#page_120">120-122</a>.<br /> -Saint Taurin, Church of, Evreux, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_095">95</a>.<br /> -Saint Urbain Cathedral, Troyes, <a href="#page_074">74</a>, <a href="#page_075">75</a>, <a href="#page_322">322</a>.<br /> -Saint Wolfran, Church of, Abbeville, <a href="#page_027">27</a>.<br /> -Sainte Chapelle, Paris, <a href="#page_375">375-381</a>.<br /> -Sainte Colombe, Abbey, Sens, <a href="#page_300">300</a>.<br /> -Sainte Croix, nuns of, <a href="#page_274">274</a>.<br /> -Sainte Emilion—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grotte of, <a href="#page_297">297-298</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vineyards of, <a href="#page_294">294</a>.</span><br /> -Sainte Marie, Paris, <a href="#page_364">364-365</a>.<br /> -Sainte Radégonde, Church of, Poitiers, <a href="#page_274">274</a>.<br /> -Salisbury Cathedral, <a href="#page_075">75</a>.<br /> -Saumur, <a href="#page_171">171</a>.<br /> -Savinian, St., <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_300">300</a>.<br /> -Saxon inhabitants of the Bessin, <a href="#page_104">104</a>.<br /> -Scott, “Quentin Durward,” <a href="#page_187">187-188</a>.<br /> -Seine, the, <a href="#page_064">64</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">towards Evreux, <a href="#page_088">88-89</a>.</span><br /> -Selby Abbey, Yorkshire, <a href="#page_309">309</a>.<br /> -Semur, <a href="#page_305">305</a>.<br /> -Senlis—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral of Notre Dame, <a href="#page_338">338-341</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Pierre, <a href="#page_337">337-338</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_336">336-337</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roman remains, <a href="#page_336">336-337</a>.<a name="page_395" id="page_395"></a></span><br /> -Sens—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Abbey of Sainte-Colombe, <a href="#page_300">300</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral of St. Etienne, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_300">300-305</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_299">299-301</a>.</span><br /> -Soissons—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Abbey of St. Jean des Vignes, <a href="#page_061">61</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral of Notre Dame, <a href="#page_058">58-61</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_054">54-58</a>.</span><br /> -Somerset, Duke of, <a href="#page_072">72</a>.<br /> -Somme river, the, <a href="#page_032">32-36</a>.<br /> -Somme valley, geological discoveries, <a href="#page_021">21</a>, <a href="#page_022">22</a>.<br /> -Sorel, Agnes, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.<br /> -South Kensington Museum, <a href="#page_075">75</a>.<br /> -Spiers, Mr., “Architecture East and West,” <a href="#page_239">239-240</a>, <a href="#page_262">262-265</a>.<br /> -Stephen of Blois, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a>.<br /> -Strabo, <i>cited</i>, <a href="#page_359">359</a>.<br /> -Suger, Minister of Louis VI., <a href="#page_382">382</a>.<br /> -Sully, Maurice de, <a href="#page_365">365-366</a>.<br /> -Syagrius, “Romanorum Rex,” <a href="#page_054">54</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="T" id="T"></a>Taillefer, the warrior, <a href="#page_138">138</a>.<br /> -Tancred, the “Very perfect gentle knight,” <a href="#page_023">23</a>.<br /> -Tapestry, the Bayeux, <a href="#page_110">110-115</a>.<br /> -Taurin, Saint, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_095">95</a>.<br /> -Temple Church, <a href="#page_110">110</a>.<br /> -Texier, Jean le, <a href="#page_207">207</a>.<br /> -Theobald or Thibaut, Count of Chartres, <a href="#page_202">202</a>.<br /> -Thérain valley, <a href="#page_341">341</a>.<br /> -Thermes, Roman Palace of the, <a href="#page_357">357</a>.<br /> -Thibaut, Count, of Anjou, <a href="#page_172">172</a>.<br /> -Thibaut, Count, of Chartres, <a href="#page_090">90</a>.<br /> -Thibaut le Tricheur, Count of Chartres, <a href="#page_205">205</a>.<br /> -Thibaut IV., Count of Troyes, <a href="#page_315">315</a>.<br /> -Thomas à Becket, St., <a href="#page_100">100</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Sens, <a href="#page_300">300</a>, <a href="#page_301">301</a>.</span><br /> -“Toillette de Duc Guillaume,” <a href="#page_114">114</a>.<br /> -Toulouse, Church of the Cordeliers, <a href="#page_292">292</a>.<br /> -Tour Beauregard, Saint-Lô, <a href="#page_129">129</a>.<br /> -Tour de la Chaîne La Rochelle, <a href="#page_289">289</a>.<br /> -Tour de la Lanterne, La Rochelle, <a href="#page_289">289</a>.<br /> -Tour de Vésone, Périgueux, <a href="#page_258">258-261</a>.<br /> -Tour St. Nicholas, La Rochelle, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br /> -Touraine, description of, <a href="#page_181">181-182</a>.<br /> -Tours—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Angevin struggle for, <a href="#page_171">171-172</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Gatien, <a href="#page_188">188-192</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church of St. Martin, <a href="#page_052">52</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_183">183-188</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rue des Halles, <a href="#page_184">184</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tour Charlemagne, <a href="#page_187">187</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tour de l’Horloge, <a href="#page_187">187</a>.</span><br /> -Toury, Cloister of, <a href="#page_321">321</a>.<br /> -Treaty of Troyes, <a href="#page_313">313-314</a>.<br /> -“Triforium,” description of term, <a href="#page_032">32</a>.<br /> -Troyes—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral of St. Urbian, <a href="#page_074">74-75</a>, <a href="#page_318">318-322</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Commerce and Fairs of, <a href="#page_315">315-319</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical sketch, <a href="#page_310">310-319</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Huguenot massacre, <a href="#page_314">314-315</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Treaty of Henry V., <a href="#page_313">313-314</a>.</span><br /> -Truce of God, <a href="#page_047">47</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preached in Normandy, <a href="#page_122">122-125</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="U" id="U"></a>Ursin, St., <a href="#page_099">99</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="V" id="V"></a>Valonges, fall of, <a href="#page_139">139</a>.<br /> -Vaurus, the bastard of, death of, <a href="#page_330">330</a>.<br /> -Vendôme—<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Abbey of La Trinité, <a href="#page_216">216</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Counts of, <a href="#page_215">215-216</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Loire at, <a href="#page_216">216-217</a>.</span><br /> -Venetian Colonies at Limoges, <a href="#page_266">266</a>.<br /> -Venice, St. Mark’s, style influences architecture of Saint Front, <a href="#page_262">262-266</a>.<br /> -Vercingetorix, <a href="#page_299">299</a>.<br /> -Verheilh, M. Félix de, <a href="#page_266">266</a>.<br /> -Vieil-Evreux, Roman Settlement, <a href="#page_089">89</a>.<br /> -<i>Villes bastide</i>, the, of Guyenne, <a href="#page_293">293-294</a>.<br /> -Vincent, St., Childebert’s Church, <a href="#page_372">372-375</a>.<br /> -Viollet-le-Duc, <i>cited</i>, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_041">41-45</a>, <a href="#page_048">48-51</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_270">270-273</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">panegyric on Chartres Cathedral, <a href="#page_211">211</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">restorations in Notre Dame, <a href="#page_369">369</a>.</span><br /> -Vire, the, <a href="#page_130">130</a>.<a name="page_396" id="page_396"></a><br /> -<br /> -“<a name="W" id="W"></a>Week of Battles,” 1871, the <a href="#page_156">156</a>.<br /> -Wells Cathedral, <a href="#page_075">75</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tomb of William de la Merche, <a href="#page_077">77</a>.</span><br /> -Westminster Abbey, <a href="#page_109">109</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tomb of Aymer de Valence, <a href="#page_077">77</a>, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</span><br /> -Whewell, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_093">93</a>, <a href="#page_094">94</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>.<br /> -William de la Merche, tomb at Wells, <a href="#page_077">77</a>.<br /> -William Longsword, <a href="#page_066">66</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>.<br /> -William of Poitiers, <a href="#page_116">116</a>.<br /> -William the Conqueror, <a href="#page_066">66</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">connection with Caen, <a href="#page_117">117-126</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">funeral at Caen, <a href="#page_120">120-122</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Le Mans, <a href="#page_155">155</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">struggle with Geoffrey the Hammer, <a href="#page_172">172</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Moulins, <a href="#page_248">248-251</a>.</span><br /> -Wittich, General von, <a href="#page_207">207</a>.<br /> -Wolsey, Cardinal, the French alliance, <a href="#page_024">24</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<a name="Y" id="Y"></a>Yonne River, <a href="#page_299">299</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Sens, <a href="#page_301">301</a>.</span><br /> -Young, Arthur, account of the Guise tragedy, <a href="#page_199">199-200</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">indignation of, <a href="#page_375">375</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rouen, description of, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_073">73</a>.</span><br /> -Yves, Bishop of Chartres, <a href="#page_370">370</a>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><a name="page_397" id="page_397"></a></p> - -<p><a name="TRANS" id="TRANS"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="padding:2%;border:double 3px gray;"> -<tr><th align="center">Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:</th></tr> -<tr><td align="center">St. Front, <span class="errata">Perigueux</span>=> St. Front, Périgueux {pg x}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">has gazed up at the great buttressed hill, <span class="errata">silhoutted</span>=> has gazed up at the great buttressed hill, silhouetted {pg 38}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">RUE DE <span class="errata">L’HORLAGE</span>, ROUEN=> RUE DE L’HORLOGE, ROUEN {pg 79}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center"><span class="errata">Charlottle</span> Corday spent=> Charlotte Corday spent {pg 96}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Another memory of the <span class="errata">Conquerer</span> in Caen=> Another memory of the Conqueror in Caen {pg 122}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center"><span class="errata">CONTANCES</span>=> COUTANCES {pg 141}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">THE SOUTH PORCH OF THE CATHEDRAL, <span class="errata">CONTANCES</span>=> THE SOUTH PORCH OF THE CATHEDRAL, COUTANCES {pg 147}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">ST. PIERRE, <span class="errata">CONTANCES</span>=> ST. PIERRE, COUTANCES {pg 153}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">converted him to <span class="errata">Christianty</span>=> converted him to Christianity {pg 152}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center"><span class="errata">Goeffrey</span> of Mayenne=> Geoffrey of Mayenne {pg 155}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">the Duke of Mecklenburg and Von der <span class="errata">Taun</span>=> the Duke of Mecklenburg and Von der Tann {pg 161}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">If Le Mans marks the first stage from Normandy upon the southward road, Angiers=> If Le Mans marks the first stage from Normandy upon the southward road, Angers {pg 169}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">TOUR DE <span class="errata">L’HORLAGE</span>, TOURS=> TOUR DE L’HORLOGE, TOURS {pg 185}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Tour de la <span class="errata">Chaine</span>=> Tour de la Chaîne {pg 286}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">salon of the <span class="errata">Hotel</span> Rambouillet=> salon of the Hôtel Rambouillet {pg 333}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">was vested in the <span class="errata">spiritul</span> power=> was vested in the spiritual power {pg 343}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">The <span class="errata">beseiging</span> army of Charles the Bold=> The besieging army of Charles the Bold {pg 346}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">leaving Charles at <span class="errata">Compiégne</span>=> leaving Charles at Compiègne {pg 353}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">and indeed the <span class="errata">eccleciastical</span>=> and indeed the ecclesiastical {pg 360}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Archibishop Maurice de Sully=> Archbishop Maurice de Sully {pg 366}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">“<span class="errata">Manned</span> d’Archéologie Française,”=> “Manuel d’Archéologie Française,” {pg 388}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Tour <span class="errata">Charlemange</span>, 187=> Tour Charlemange, 187 {pg 395}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">La <span class="errata">Beuriere</span> quarter of Boulogne, 16.=> La Beurière quarter of Boulogne, 16. {index}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Louis le <span class="errata">Debonnair</span>, 57.=> Louis le Débonnair, 57. {index}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Orleans=> Orléans {pg x, 71, 390}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">“Precieuses,” the, 333.=> “Précieuses,” the, 333. {index}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Radeonde, Saint, 274.=> Radégonde, Saint, 274. {index}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Saint-<span class="errata">Emilion</span>=> Saint-Émilion {index}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center"><span class="errata">PERIGUEUX</span>=> PÉRIGUEUX {pg 13, 258. 265}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Lancelot, M., discovery regarding the <span class="errata">Bayeaux</span> tapestry, 113-114.=> Lancelot, M., discovery regarding the Bayeux tapestry, 113-114. {index}</td></tr> -</table> -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Cathedral Cities of France, by -Herbert Marshall and Hester Marshall - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CITIES OF FRANCE *** - -***** This file should be named 40390-h.htm or 40390-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/3/9/40390/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This ebook was -produced from scanned images of public domain material at -Internet Archive.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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