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diff --git a/40355-0.txt b/40355-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..89b055a --- /dev/null +++ b/40355-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8074 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40355 *** + +[Illustration: Book Cover] + + + + +NOOKS AND CORNERS OF SHROPSHIRE + + + + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration: Butcher Row. Shrewsbury.] + + + + +Nooks and Corners +of +Shropshire. + + +BY +H. THORNHILL TIMMINS, F.R.G.S., + +AUTHOR OF 'NOOKS AND CORNERS OF HEREFORDSHIRE,' 'NOOKS AND CORNERS +OF PEMBROKESHIRE.' + + +_WITH MAP AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS_ +_BY THE AUTHOR._ + + +LONDON: +ELLIOT STOCK, 62, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. +1899. + + + + +PREFACE + + +My work completed, I may be permitted to add a few words by way of envoi. + +'Nooks and Corners' is the outcome of many prolonged sketching rambles +in Shropshire, where, as I roamed about the County, in search of +subjects for pen and pencil, I succeeded in gleaning a good deal of +original information anent the places I visited; and I was greeted by +all sorts and conditions of Salopians with that hospitality for which +they are proverbial, and which has left me their grateful debtor. + +Though the more important places here illustrated are probably familiar +to many of my readers, there are certain scenes and objects in the +course of this work which have never been pictured or described before, +and which will, I trust, prove of interest to Salopians. Amidst such an +embarras de richesses, I have of necessity been obliged to pick and +choose the subjects dealt with; for in matter antiquarian the locality +is well-nigh inexhaustible. + +But if the gentle reader, in perusing the following pages, should share +in some degree my own pleasure and interest in compiling them, I shall +have the satisfaction of feeling that I have not rambled in vain amidst +the Nooks and Corners of Shropshire. + + H. THORNHILL TIMMINS. + HARROW, + _November_, 1899. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + A GENERAL SURVEY. THE TOWN OF SHREWSBURY 1 + FROM SHREWSBURY TO PITCHFORD, ACTON BURNELL, AND CHURCH STRETTON 21 + STRETTON DALE AND THE LONGMYND. A VISIT TO STOKESAY CASTLE 42 + FROM CRAVEN ARMS TO BISHOP'S CASTLE AND CLUN 60 + ROUND ABOUT CLUN FOREST. TO KNIGHTON AND LUDLOW 79 + ROUND ABOUT LUDLOW 94 + THE CLEE HILLS, CORVE DALE, AND WENLOCK EDGE 108 + WENLOCK, WROXETER, AND THE WREKIN 135 + TO LILLESHALL ABBEY, TONG, AND BOSCOBEL 153 + ROUND ABOUT BRIDGNORTH 171 + BETWEEN SEVERN AND CLEE 194 + WESTWARD HO! TOWARDS THE WELSH BORDER 214 + + + + +INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS + + + BUTCHER ROW, SHREWSBURY _Frontispiece_ + SHREWSBURY SCHOOL 5 + OLD COUNCIL HOUSE, SHREWSBURY 7 + REMAINS OF BENNETT'S HALL 11 + A BYEWAY IN OLD SHREWSBURY 12 + OLD MARKET HOUSE, SHREWSBURY 14 + OLD HOUSES IN WYLE COP 15 + ANCIENT PULPIT AT SHREWSBURY 17 + OLD WINDMILL AT LYTH HILL 20 + STAPLETON CHURCH 22 + CONDOVER HALL 23 + THE HOUSE IN THE TREE, PITCHFORD 25 + PITCHFORD HALL 26 + ACTON BURNELL 28 + NICHOLAS DE BURNELL 29 + KENLEY CHURCH 31 + LANGLEY 33 + FRODESLEY LODGE 34 + OLD BRIDGE ON 'DEVIL'S CAUSEWAY' 35 + PANEL AT CHURCH PREEN 36 + PLASH 37 + CARDINGTON 38 + LEIGHTONS OF PLASHE 39 + CHALICE AT HOPE BOWDLER 40 + SIR RALPH DE PITCHFORD 41 + CHURCH STRETTON 42 + CHURCH STRETTON CHURCH 43 + ADAM AND EVE 44 + CHURCH STRETTON AND THE LONGMYND 45 + WOOLSTASTON CHURCH AND RECTORY 46 + FONT AT WOOLSTASTON 47 + ACTON SCOTT HALL 50 + ALCESTON 51 + HALFORD CHURCH AND MILL 52 + STOKESAY CASTLE 53 + THE GATE HOUSE, STOKESAY 54 + STOKESAY CHURCH 57 + CARVED PANEL AT STOKESAY 59 + PLOWDEN HALL 61 + LEA CASTLE 66 + BISHOP'S CASTLE 68 + BISHOP'S CASTLE 69 + GARDE DOLOREUSE 73 + OLD LYCH GATE AT CLUN 75 + CLUN HOSPITAL 77 + SEAL OF CLUN HOSPITAL 78 + BETTWS-Y-CRWYN 82 + CHALICE AT BETTWS-Y-CRWYN 83 + THE CANTLIN CROSS 84 + STOWE 86 + STAIRCASE, HEATH HOUSE 89 + HOPTON CASTLE 90 + BRANKS AT LUDLOW 93 + LUDLOW CASTLE 95 + LUDLOW CASTLE AND CHURCH 95 + PALMER'S GUILD, LUDLOW 103 + FEATHERS HOTEL, LUDLOW 105 + A 'MISERERE' AT LUDLOW 107 + HAUNTED HOUSE, BITTERLEY 109 + CROSS AT BITTERLEY 110 + CROW LEASOW 111 + STANTON LACY 113 + DELBURY CHURCH 116 + CHURCH-PORCH, MUNSLOW 118 + TUGFORD CHURCH 120 + THE HEATH CHAPEL 121 + INTERIOR OF THE HEATH CHAPEL 121 + UPPER MILLICHOPE 125 + RUSHBURY 126 + NORMAN DOORWAY, HOLGATE CHURCH 128 + SHIPTON HALL 129 + HOUR-GLASS, EASTHOPE CHURCH 132 + HINGE AT STANTON LONG 134 + CHAPTER-HOUSE, MUCH WENLOCK 137 + MUCH WENLOCK 138 + OLD INN-SIGN AT BROSELEY 140 + BUILDWAS ABBEY 142 + MADELEY COURT 144 + THE LADY OAK, CRESSAGE 146 + URICONIUM AND WROXETER 148 + ATCHAM 150 + THE SIGN OF THE RAVEN 152 + LILLESHALL ABBEY 153 + SHIFFNAL 155 + SHIFFNAL CHURCH 156 + TONG CASTLE 158 + TONG CHURCH 158 + WOOD-CARVING AT TONG 159 + A TREASURE FROM TONG 160 + SIR ARTHUR VERNON 161 + HUBBAL GRANGE 162 + BOSCOBEL HOUSE 163 + BOSCOBEL 163 + DAME PENDEREL 164 + AT WHITELADIES 166 + ALBRIGHTON 168 + WELL-COVER AT PEPPERHILL 169 + THE ROYAL OAK 170 + BRIDGNORTH 171 + ANCIENT HOUSE, BRIDGNORTH 172 + MARKET-PLACE, BRIDGNORTH 174 + MARKET-DAY AT BRIDGNORTH 175 + COTTAGE IN THE ROCK, BRIDGNORTH 179 + WORFIELD 180 + LUDSTONE 182 + CLAVERLEY 183 + DUNVALL 187 + TYMPANUM, ASTON EYRES 189 + UPTON CRESSETT CHURCH 191 + UPTON CRESSETT HALL 192 + STOCKS AT STOCKTON 193 + THE BUTTER CROSS, ALVELEY 197 + ALVELEY CHURCH 198 + KINLET HALL 200 + KINLET CHURCH 201 + CLEOBURY MORTIMER 205 + DOWLES MANOR HOUSE 207 + BURFORD 209 + ANCIENT CROSS AT HIGHLEY 213 + CHIMNEYPIECE, MOAT HALL 214 + MITCHELL'S FOLD 217 + VIRGIN AND CHILD, CHIRBURY 221 + ANCIENT SUNDIAL AT MARRINGTON 223 + MARCHE MANOR FARM 227 + OLD THOMAS PARR 228 + BRAGGINGTON HALL 229 + ALBERBURY CHURCH 232 + WATTLESBOROUGH CASTLE 234 + THE SHELTON OAK 235 + A MAIDEN GARLAND 237 + SHREWSBURY SEAL 238 + MAP OF SHROPSHIRE _At end_ + + + + +NOOKS AND CORNERS OF SHROPSHIRE + + 'On this side whiche the Sonne doth warm with his declining beames, + Severn and Teme in channell deepe doo run, too antient Streames; + These make the neibor's pasture riche, these yeld of fruit greate store; + And doo convey thro out the Shire commodities manie more. + Here hilles doo lift their heades aloft, from whence sweete springes + doo flow, + Whose moistur good doth firtil make the vallies coucht belowe. + Here goodly orchards planted are, in fruite which doo abounde; + Thine ey wold make thine hart rejoyce to see such pleasant grounde.' + + + + +A GENERAL SURVEY. THE TOWN OF SHREWSBURY. + + +Southern Shropshire whose nooks and corners we are about to explore is a +pleasant, fertile country, where breezy heather-clad hills alternate +with cornfields, orchards and pastures, and rich umbrageous woodlands. +Goodly rivers such as the Severn and the Teme, besides brooks, rivulets +and trout-streams, enrich the meadows in the sunny vales, or wake the +silence of the lonely hills where the curlew and the lapwing make their +homes. + +Situated upon the confines of England and Wales, this border district +forms part of the March-lands which in olden times sundered the realm of +England from the Principality, and hence one may enjoy within its +comparatively moderate compass the diversified scenery peculiar to +either country. As regards its physical features, therefore, Southern +Shropshire presents in some sort an epitome or microcosm of England +itself. + +A glance at the map will show that the whole south-western corner of +Shropshire is occupied by the wild hill-country known as Clun Forest; +whence a succession of lofty ridges, such as the Stiperstones, the +Longmynd, the Caradoc Hills and Wenlock Edge, ramificate towards the +north, in shape not unlike the fingers of a hand, whereof the Clee +Hills, lying a little apart to the eastward, may be taken as +representing the thumb. + +This hilly region is classic ground to the geologist. The extreme +diversity of its rock structure early attracted the attention of +students; and has been so thoroughly elucidated by Murchison, Ramsay, +Salter, Lapworth, and other eminent scientists, that nowadays as the +saying goes 'he who runs may read.' + +The Severn is _the_ river par excellence of Shropshire. With its +important affluent the Teme, this noble river, in its course of more +than fifty miles through the county, receives the waters of the entire +district. After parting company with the rugged hills of Wales, the +Severn emerges upon the plains of Shropshire, and sweeps in a bold curve +around the town of Shrewsbury. Thenceforth the ever-widening river +glides onward in placid reaches past the time-honoured ruins of Roman +Uriconium, and lingers beside lush green water meadows, where the ruddy +kine stand knee-deep in the rippling shallows, and the salmon fisher +drifts by in his coracle as he spreads his nets athwart stream. + +Anon the Severn, changing its character, plunges along in eddying rapids +beneath the limestone escarpments of Benthall and Wenlock Edge; then, +taking a southerly trend, it skirts the groves and terraces of Apley +Park, washes the walls of picturesque old Bridgnorth, and finally the +big river takes leave of our county amidst the rough holts and heaths of +that ancient woodland which goes by the name of Wyre Forest. + +Owing to the lie of the land, the more important streams of Southern +Shropshire flow, not into the Severn itself, but into its tributary the +Teme. The northern Rea, the Cound and the Worf, it is true, find their +way direct to the former river; but the waters of the Clun, the Onny, +the Ledwych and the southern Rea, go to swell the tide of the Teme. + +Dividing the county of Salop from its neighbour Herefordshire, the river +Teme pursues a devious course through some of the most delightful +scenery in all these broad March-lands. From its lonely source amidst +the hills, away beyond the Welsh border, the infant Teme comes tumbling +and prattling along beneath the rolling heights of Clun Forest, and, +passing onwards to Ludlow, meanders beside the castle walls, and flows +in a graceful arc around the rocky slopes of Whitcliff. Near Tenbury the +Teme travels into Worcestershire, which it does not quit again until it +merges its waters in those of the Severn. + +With all these varied attractions, its picturesque rural landscapes, its +old-world towns and villages fraught with memories of the past, and the +thousand-and-one sights, scents and sounds, that go to make up the +indefinable charm of an English countryside, the visitor to Shropshire +may find ample opportunity to gratify his particular taste, or pursue +his favourite hobby, be it that of an artist, a sportsman, a botanist, +or a votary of the 'gentle art'; while for the cyclist, and in a still +greater measure for him who fares afoot, there lurks many a secluded +nook in the unfrequented byways, or amidst the hollows of the silent +hills; nooks where he may enjoy to heart's content the harvest of the +quiet eye. + +From the antiquarian point of view, Shropshire is exceptionally +interesting. Britons, Romans, Danes, Saxons and Normans, have all played +their parts in moulding its early history, and have graven upon the +natural features of the country indelible traces of their former +domination. + +That Shropshire shared to the full in the drum and trumpet history of +mediæval days, is attested by the ruined castles and strongholds to be +met with on every hand. These we shall have occasion to refer to in the +course of our rambles; so turn we now to the famous old town which forms +the centre and focus of Salopian life. + + * * * * * + +Just about the middle of the county, islanded almost by a bold southward +sweep of the Severn, stands Shrewsbury, the Pengwern of the old Welsh +days, the Saxon Scrobbesbyrig; an ancient borough town and the capital +of the district. Shrewsbury is a clean, cheerful, yet withal +picturesque-looking city, where the tide of modern progress rolls to and +fro along the steep old streets beside its ancient castle, past +venerable parish churches and the quaint, half-timbered mansions of the +ancienne noblesse. + +Hotels and lodging-houses are not far to seek, while highroads and lines +of railway ramificate from Shrewsbury throughout the county; so the +traveller who intends to explore the nooks and corners of the +surrounding district cannot do better than take up his quarters for a +time in the proud old city upon Severn side. + +The topography of Shrewsbury is tolerably simple. Encompassed on all +sides save the north by the noble river Severn, the town spreads away up +a gentle hill to the walls of its guardian castle. 'The Towne of +Shrewesbury,' says John Leland, 'standeth on a Rocky Hill of Stone of a +sad redde Earth, and Severne soe girdeth in all the Towne that, saving a +little Peice, it were an Isle.' + +Right through the centre of the city, from south-east towards the west, +runs the ancient highroad, or 'reddie way,' from London to North Wales; +entering by way of the English Bridge, passing through the town under +the names of Wyle Cop, High Street and Mardol, and emerging by the Welsh +Bridge. At right angles to this thoroughfare lies Castle Street, leading +up to the gates of the old Norman stronghold, and nowadays familiar to +travellers as the road to the railway-station. Castle Street leads on to +Pride Hill, one of the busiest arteries of the city, which in its turn +is prolonged down St. John's Hill to the Quarry, a public park shaded by +avenues of lofty lime trees, affording a pleasant stroll by Severn side. +Here, some three centuries ago, Churchyard the Shropshire poet beheld: + + 'A space belowe to bait both Bull and Beare: + For players, too, great roume, and place at will, + And in the same a Cockpit, wondrous fayre, + Besides, where men may wrestle in their fill.' + +[Illustration: SHREWSBURY SCHOOL.] + +Across the river rises Shrewsbury School, the handsome modern prototype +of the older foundation in the town, encompassed by spacious demesnes +and cricket fields, the scene in bygone times of the far-famed +'Shrewsbury Show.' Abbey Foregate, with its venerable monastic church, +occupies what may be called the English side of the city; while the +ancient suburb of Frankwell climbs the hill in a westerly direction, +away beyond the Welsh Bridge. + + * * * * * + +We now set forth on a peregrination of the town, keeping an eye lifting +for such relics of the past as may lie upon our road, and remarking the +quaint nomenclature of some of the older streets. Immediately as we step +outside the railway-station, the old city gives us a taste of its +quality; for yonder rise the ruddy sandstone walls and round-towers of +Shrewsbury Castle, 'built in such a brave Plott,' as an old writer +observes, 'that it could have espyed a Byrd flying in every Streete.' + +Originally erected by the all-powerful Roger de Montgomery, all that now +remains of the feudal castle is a Norman gateway, two massive +drum-towers of the Edwardian keep, and some remnants of the inner ward +or bailey. So long ago as Henry the Eighth's time, John Leland found the +fortress 'nowe much in mine,' and although its ancient walls were +furbished up, and a garrison put in charge to hold the place for King +Charles, it was delivered by treachery into the hands of the +Parliamentarian forces, and so escaped demolition. + +Turning up-hill into Castle Gates, we espy a flight of steps leading to +a sort of raised passage, called the Dana, whence the visitor, if so +minded, may survey a large portion of Shropshire. Returning now to +Castle Gates, we bend our steps towards a dignified-looking pile of grey +stone buildings, standing a little back from the roadway. + +This is the Free Library and Museum, a building that for some three +centuries did duty as the Grammar School of Shrewsbury; a school founded +by King Edward the Sixth, enlarged by Queen Elizabeth, and numbering +among its masters men like Dr. Samuel Butler and Kennedy of Cambridge, +and made famous by such scholars as Philip Sidney, Fulk Greville and +Darwin, not to mention in the same breath the execrable name of Judge +Jeffreys. + +Before the entrance gateway, which is adorned with the effigies of two +scholars in quaint Jacobean costume, stands the recently erected bronze +statue of Charles Darwin, the world-renowned scientist, an alumnus, and +a native of Shrewsbury. + +The interior of the building proves quite in keeping with what the +outside would lead one to expect, for the low-ceiled rooms, with their +dark oaken panelling and doors carved with the names of long-forgotten +schoolboys, seem redolent of scholarly ways; and these studious +traditions are in some sense maintained by the purposes which these +quiet chambers now serve. + +Once more we steer a diagonal course athwart steep, crowded Castle +Street, and, rounding the end of a modern chapel, find ourselves +immediately vis-à-vis the object of our search. An ancient archway, +surmounted by a pair of timbered gablets, admits us to a small paved +courtyard, around three sides of which extends a group of buildings, +which in bygone days formed the Council House, and occasional abode of +no less a personage than the Lord President of the Council of the +Marches of Wales. Many a stately ceremony has doubtless graced these +venerable precincts, which still impress the visitor with their look of +faded dignity, though fallen in these latter days from their honourable +estate, and converted to the purposes of private dwelling-houses. + +[Illustration: OLD COUNCIL-HOUSE SHREWSBURY.] + +The picturesque Gate House, however, which figures in our sketch may +very well have witnessed that memorable incident in Shrewsbury's +corporate history, when the sturdy burgesses refused Charles the First's +offer (while staying at the Council House in 1642) to create their town +a city, an occasion that earned for them ever after the title of 'Proud +Salopians.' This fine old Gate House has been but little altered, and +bears upon its ancient timbers the date A.D. 1620. An old hall to the +rear still retains its original oak panelling and chimney-piece, charged +with fantastic devices, and dated 1634; while an upper chamber contains +a massive oak tester-bedstead, whose richly carved top is supported by +moulded pillars. + +Pushing onward past Plimmer's, formerly Palin's, home of the famous +cake-compounder whose praises have been sung by Thomas Ingoldsby Esq., +we come to the trim façade of the Raven Hotel, a commodious hostelry +whose fame goes back far into the old coaching days. Then, espying a +lofty steeple peering over the nearer housetops, we cross the head of +the lane by which Cromwell's men made their way into the town, and enter +the little green close where stands St. Mary's Church. + +Built of mellow-hued, weatherworn sandstone, St. Mary's proves to be a +noble cruciform edifice, with an early south porch and parvise, and one +of the finest spires in all England. The interior, too, presents a +charming diversity, from the variety of architectural styles employed, +and is spanned by a panelled oaken ceiling richly and beautifully +wrought; while the spacious 'Jesse' window in the chancel, brought from +old Grey Friars monastery, affords a combination of sweetness and light +truly pleasant to behold. Indeed, the ancient glass in St. Mary's Church +forms quite a feature of the building; and amidst its quaint imagery St. +Bernard may be detected in the act of sweeping the excommunicated flies +out of church, and a representation of the Last Judgment with Satan +figuring as a blue boar! + +Amongst other interesting monuments of greater or less antiquity, we +notice a memorial to that skilled and daring seaman Admiral Benbow, a +renowned Salopian hero, and 'true patterne of English courage,' who died +at Jamaica from honourable wounds in 1702. + +Beneath the shadow of St. Mary's Church nestles a group of lowly +almshouses, a charity established some time prior to 1648. Yonder +ancient half-timbered gable, overlooking the churchyard, is the +erstwhile Hall of the Drapers' Guild, where, upon passing within, we +find ourselves in a spacious, low-ceiled chamber, entirely wainscoted +with oak, and having massive oak tables, benches and lockers, coeval +with the room. Upon the wall hangs a dark old panel-picture, commonly +supposed to be the portrait of Degory Watur, the founder, and his lady +wife, who, it is recorded, used to attend with the ministers 'dailye in +Our Ladye's Churche, and kneele with them in a long Pewe, in the guise +made for them and himselfe.' And the old bedesman who does the honours +also displays one or two ancient charters connected with the foundation, +which are jealously preserved here under lock and key. + +Passing on to Pride Hill--so named from a local family of that ilk who +lived in a mansion hard by--we presently descry a narrow thoroughfare, +looking for all the world like a bit of some mediæval city. This is +Butcher Row, a quaint, old-time byway, whose ancient timbered houses +lean this way or that, in sociable good-fellowship, above the little +shops that flank the lane. A sketch of Butcher Row forms the +frontispiece to this volume. + +'There they stand, crowding together, with overhanging gables, queer +dormer windows, and panelled fronts; a curious chequer-work, wherein the +broad black lines are displayed upright, horizontal and diagonal, with +varied artifice. And here and there a bracket catches the eye, or a +pent-house roof and railed recesses, and breadths of ornament on fascia +and cornice. The ground-floors recede, and shops are gloomy, and +ceilings low; and upstairs you find the same want of height and breadth +of window, by which the olden time contrived to favour at once the +picturesque, and the plague.' + +Far aloft soars the graceful spire of St. Alkmond's Church, +('Stalkmun's,' in the vernacular), the nave whereof was pulled down in a +panic a century ago, after its neighbour St. Chad's had fallen, and +rebuilt in the contemptible 'style' of that period. + +'In the yere 1533,' as an old chronicler tells, 'uppon Twelffe daye, in +Shrowsburie, the Dyvyll appearyd in Saint Alkmond's churche there, when +the preest was at High Masse, with great tempeste and Darknesse, soe +that as he passyd through, he mountyd upp the Steeple in the sayd +churche, tering the wyers of the clocke, and put the prynt of his Clawes +uppon the 4th Bell, and tooke one of the pynnacles awaye with hym, and +for the Tyme stayde all the Bells in the churches within the sayde +Towne, that they could neyther toll nor ringe.' + +The corner building at the farther end of Butcher Row is an excellent +example of a mediæval town-house; and the beautiful though sadly defaced +carvings about its door-jambs, windows and gables, are as good as they +are rare of their kind. There is reason to suppose the Abbots of +Lilleshall made this their city abode, and that the chantry priests of +the Holy Cross found shelter in its ancient chambers. + +Be that as it may, we now direct our steps towards a mere slit of a +passage, aptly designated Grope Lane; getting a passing peep of Fish +Street, and its quaint inn-sign the Three Fishes, the cognizance of the +Abbots of Lilleshall, with St. Julian's Church-tower beyond. A queer +nook indeed is this Grope Lane, just such an one as might have inspired +the author of 'A Legend of the Dark Entry'; so narrow that one may +easily touch both sides at once, and so closely overhung by the rafters +of the adjacent premises that but a strip of sky is seen. + +Having weathered the intricacies of Grope Lane we enter High Street, and +turn right-about to look at the quaint old half-timbered buildings by +which it is flanked--small but very characteristic specimens of old +Salopian house-fronts, with their quatrefoil panels, twisted pilasters, +and grotesquely carved heads. Close at hand is High Street Church, a +chapel originally erected in the days of the Act of Uniformity, and +noteworthy from the fact that for a brief space of time Samuel +Coleridge, the celebrated author of the 'Ancient Mariner,' ministered +therein. + +Strolling along High Street, we soon pass the entrance to The Square, +giving a passing glance at the old Market House that rises so +picturesquely there--whereof more anon,--and pausing beneath Clive's +statue to scan the determined features and stalwart bearing of that +renowned Salopian. Then we turn our attention to a group of Fine old +black-and-white gables that rise upon the opposite side of the street, +the doorway of one handsome façade bearing the inscription, ERECTED BY +RICHARD OWEN THE ELDER, GENTELMAN, ANO. DM. 1592. + +Few towns in the kingdom can boast such stately survivals as these; yet +a few yards away appears a still more striking specimen of the mediæval +builder's art. Originally the town-house of the Irelands, this noble old +fabric is still known by their name, and bears upon its ancient front +the family cognizance. Four storeys high it rears its chequered walls, +topped by tall, beetling gables, and broken into play of light and shade +by ranges of oriel windows. Bits of quaint carving are seen here and +there upon bargeboard, lintel and bracket, for the old place has happily +suffered but little from modern innovations. The nicely restored +black-and-white front of Lloyd's Bank hard by keeps its venerable +neighbour well in countenance. + +[Illustration: Remains of Bennett's Hall] + +Finding ourselves once more on Pride Hill, we step across that busy +thoroughfare, and, passing to the rear of Mother Noblett's Toffee Shop, +with its huge, comical signboard, we see before us the pretty Gothic +doorway that figures in our sketch. Though much the worse for neglect, +and fallen sadly into disrepair, this ancient sandstone structure is +clearly the work of at least two periods. The shaft and capital on the +left, with the broken archway above it, are of the style known as Early +English; while the graceful pointed arch, with its floreated cusps and +traces of ball-flower ornamentation, are evidently a later insertion, +and probably date from the latter part of the thirteenth century. A wide +stone arch, part of which may be noticed above the passage-way, supports +the floor of the room within; and a small arched recess, near the head +of the steps, appears to have been used as a holy-water stoup. + +From these indications it is considered probable the little building +before us was at one time the private chapel of Bennett's Hall, the city +residence of the Abbot of Haughmond, who, according to the custom of +those days, had a town-house in the capital of the county. + +Portions of ancient domestic buildings may be traced at the back of the +chapel, including the stonework of a good-sized hall, and some +indications of a large window. There is a tradition that these buildings +were at one time used as a mint; and the fact that a kind of oven, or +hearth, formerly existed here gives colour to the story. + +[Illustration: A Byeway in Old Shrewsbury.] + +Laying a course towards the tall clock-tower of the new Market Hall, we +now descend Pride Hill and turn to the right into Mardol, a steep, +oldfashioned street, boasting several half-timbered house-fronts dating +as far back as the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. About half-way +down we strike into a byway called Hill's Lane, at the corner whereof +rises an ancient frontage whose oaken beams display the date 1440. This +narrow lane, zig-zagging through one of the oldest quarters of the town, +is frequented on market-days by country folk, when the mother-tongue of +old Salopia may be heard in all its pristine purity. + +After passing one or two oldfashioned inns of the humbler sort, we +stumble unexpectedly upon a lordly dwelling, standing somewhat aloof +from its dingy neighbours, and presenting an air of dilapidated +gentility, like an out-at-elbows aristocrat making shift to maintain his +dignity amidst a crowd of tatterdemalions. + +Built of dark-red brick, with stone mullions, quoins and copings, this +fine old Tudor mansion is believed to have been erected by one William +Rowley, draper, and sometime alderman of Shrewsbury, about the beginning +of the seventeenth century, and is still called Rowley's Mansion. Sad it +is to see the woful plight into which the stately old fabric has fallen, +the beautiful porch that once adorned its entrance torn away and +destroyed, its mullioned windows yawning wide to wind and rain, and each +delicately-traceried ceiling thrown down, or utterly defaced. By +strolling into the yard of the old Ship Inn, we get another glimpse of +Rowley's mansion; its soaring gables and chimney stacks grouping +picturesquely, from this point, with the meaner outhouses and dwellings +by which it is surrounded. + +[Illustration: Old Market House Shrewsbury.] + +We next thread our way through several rather intricate lanes, until, +crossing Mardol Head, we soon find ourselves once more in The Square, +the very heart of this ancient city. Here the old Market House at once +claims our attention; a venerable sandstone structure supported, as our +sketch will show, upon a series of semicircular arches, and buttressed +at the angles. Overhead its time-stained walls are pierced with +mullioned windows, and relieved against the skyline by quaint, fantastic +battlements. That clock aloft in the gable is _said_ to occupy the place +of the one Falstaff referred to when declaring that, against tremendous +odds, he had 'fought a long hour by Shrewsbury clock.' Be that as it +may, we are on surer ground when considering the figure in the canopied +niche below; for an inscribed panel alongside announces that 'This +statue was removed by order of the Mayor from the tower on the Welsh +Bridge in the year 1791.' The effigy, that of a knight in full armour, +has a stiff, archaic appearance, and is usually supposed to represent +Edward IV., father of Richard, Duke of York. Below this figure, in +antiquated characters, are the words: THE XV DAY OF IUNE WAS THIS +BUYLDING BEGONN, WM JONES AND THOS. CHARLTON GENT. THEN BAYLIFFES, AND +WAS ERECTED AND COVERED IN THEIR TIME. The opposite gable has a similar +niche, with the figure of an angel bearing a shield charged with the +Arms of England and France, and a half-obliterated sundial. A richly +carved canopy upon the western front encloses the arms of Queen +Elizabeth, and the date of the erection of the building, 1596. + +Over against the old Market House, on the eastern side of The Square, +rises an ancient timbered dwelling which goes by the name of Lloyd's +House. Its rugged beams are curiously carved; grotesque faces leer upon +the passer-by from finial and bracket; and the builder's initials are +ingeniously interwoven amidst the ornamentation of the weatherworn +bargeboard. Glancing backwards from the adjacent lane, we notice how the +nodding gables and chimneys of Lloyd's mansion, one end of the old +Market House, and a good eighteenth-century building beyond, combine to +form a characteristic street scene. Then we push onwards again in search +of other quarry. + +Traversing a disused cemetery, we come to the Lady Chapel, and only +relic, of old St. Chad's, a venerable church which collapsed suddenly in +1788, after surviving the changes and chances of time, it is said, for +over a thousand years. + +An odd little alley now beguiles our footsteps, where an oldfashioned +inn, its prominent signboard overtopped by St. Julian's church-tower, +appears as set in a frame beneath an ancient archway. Thence we turn to +the right, and pass a handsome new building on the site of Shearmen's +Hall, an ancient foundation that in its time had played many parts, as a +theatre, a chapel, a warehouse and a shop! + +Thus we enter Wyle Cop,--how runs the verse? + + 'They hew, and they hack, and they chop; + And, to finish the whole, they stick up a pole, + In the place that's still called the Wylde Coppe, + And they pop + Your grim, gory head on the top!' + +Several attractive-looking old structures confront us as we descend the +steep pavement, prominent amongst them the ancient abode that figures +upon page 15. This picturesque façade, with its blackened timbers and +pretty traceried window adorned by coats of arms, has an added interest +from the fact that it is 'Ye auncient house in which King Henry the VII +loged, when he went to Bosworth Field, Augst 1485.' So at least the +panel beneath the window has it, though Henry, of course, was but Harry +of Richmond until that fateful battle had won for him the crown. + +[Illustration: Old Houses in Wyle Cop. Shrewsbury.] + +While exploring the vicinity of Wyle Cop, many another bit of old +Shrewsbury is brought to light, notably the nicely restored frontage of +the Unicorn Hotel; and, hidden away amidst some poor cottages by Severn +side, a few scanty relics of Grey Friars' monastery, in its time one of +the stateliest religious houses in Shrewsbury. Thenceforward we hug the +river brink until, coming to the English Bridge, we traverse it, and +find ourselves in the broad thoroughfare called Abbey Foregate-- + + 'A long greate streate, well buildid, large and faire, + In as good Ayre as may be wisht with wit; + Where Abbey stands, and is such ringe of Belles, + As is not found from London unto Welles.' + +These lines by Churchyard, the old Shropshire poet, still hold good in +the main, though railway encroachments have much to answer for. But the +pièce de résistance is happily still there, and the ruddy, timeworn +tower of the Abbey Church now rises before us, while its mellow-toned +bells speak for themselves, pealing out a quaint, merry chime upon the +springlike air as we draw near. + +Originally amongst the noblest and wealthiest Abbeys of the Benedictine +order in England, this venerable edifice remains to this day one of the +few ancient religious houses in everyday use as a parish church. It was +founded by no less a personage than Roger de Montgomery, William the +Conqueror's kinsman and vicegerent in the Welsh March-lands; who, life's +fitful fever ended, lies buried here in his own Abbey Church of St. +Peter and St. Paul. + +Earl Roger's foundation was probably cruciform in shape, and the central +portion of the church is part of the original fabric, displaying the +thick, massive pillars and rounded arches, characteristic of the Norman +period. In pleasant contrast with their rude simplicity rises a group of +gracefully proportioned, pointed arches of a later date; while the tall, +slender traceries of the Perpendicular windows, lend a certain air of +lightness to the whole. A flat oaken ceiling spans the lofty interior, +which cannot fail to impress every beholder by its air of spacious and +reposeful dignity. + +In the south aisle we notice a recumbent and much defaced stone effigy, +which, according to a brass plate upon the adjacent wall, represents +'Sir Roger de Montgomery, Second in command of the army of his kinsman, +William the Conqueror, at the Battle of Hastings, the First of the +Family of Montgomery in England. He was advanced to high honour as the +Over-lord of many counties, and created Earl of Shrewsbury. He founded +this church and abbey, wherein he, as a Brother of the Benedictine +Order, died the 1st of August, MXCV.' The monuments in the Abbey Church +will reward a close examination. + +[Illustration: Ancient Pulpit in Shrewsbury.] + +In the course of a walk around the outside of the church, we remark the +noble proportions of the great west window, surmounted by a canopied +niche, with its mailed figure reputed to represent King Edward III., a +picturesque two-storied north porch, and the lofty walls of Mr. +Pearson's new chancel. Thence we pass across the street, where, a +pathetic object amidst such grimy environments, stands the ancient +stone pulpit shown in our sketch, in the midst of a railway coal-yard! + +This graceful structure dates from the early part of the fourteenth +century, and its cusped and richly moulded arches are charming examples +of Decorated work. The panels below are adorned with delicately +sculptured figures representing St. Peter, St. Paul, and other saints; +while the groined ceiling inside the arches is crowned by a large carved +boss, or keystone, emblematical of the Crucifixion. + +Very picturesque looks this gem of Gothic art, its grey old stones +scored and wrinkled by the tooth of Time, whose ravages are but +partially concealed by a mantle of fresh green ivy. At one time the +Abbey precincts appear to have extended far and wide in this direction, +but the exigencies of modern travel and traffic have played sad havoc +with the old, monkish habitation. + +This beautiful pulpit is the last remnant of the old monastic buildings, +that once nestled beneath the adjacent Abbey Church. It was attached to +the refectory, and was doubtless intended for the use of the monk whose +duty it was to read to the brethren at meal-times. Its other side gave +upon the courtyard of the monastery, and we may suppose that open-air +sermons were occasionally delivered from it. + +Our sketch completed, we now turn aside from Abbey 'Forrit,' to visit +the large red sandstone mansion, paradoxically dubbed 'Whitehall.' It is +recorded that Richard Prince, its builder, commenced the erection of his +house in the year of grace 1578, but that it was not completed until +1582, 'soe was it iiij yeares in buyldinge, to hys greate chardge, with +fame to hym and hys posteritie for ever.' Prince's 'fame' in the matter +is somewhat discounted, however, by the fact that he built his dwelling +with stones torn from the fabric of the ancient Abbey, then but lately +disestablished; and, in order to disguise them, caused the walls to be +whitewashed, which gave rise to its name of Whitehall. + +The building is a very fine specimen of an Elizabethan mansion, with +mullioned windows, high-peaked gables, and the tall, detached +chimney-stacks one knows so well. The gatehouse and dovecot are +interesting features, and the lawn at the rear of the mansion is +overshadowed by a magnificent walnut tree, as old, we should suppose, as +Whitehall itself. + +We now push on to St. Giles's Church, turning aside to climb to the +summit of Lord Hill's Column, and enjoy the wide and varied prospect +over hill and dale, town and river, that its balcony affords. + +St. Giles's is considered to be one of the oldest churches in +Shrewsbury; yet, owing to repeated restoration--'a name that,' as has +been well said, 'covers more sins than charity itself,'--a casual +observer might easily mistake it for a brand-new edifice. The church +owes its foundation, we believe, to King Henry I., who established here +a hospital or asylum for lepers, of whom St. Giles was regarded as the +special patron. A Norman doorway admits us to the interior, which, +though rigorously swept and garnished, still retains one or two of its +original windows filled with scraps of ancient stained glass, and a +richly moulded archway of rather later date. + +Out in the churchyard stands a curious octagonal stone, with a +good-sized square recess, several inches deep, in its upper side. It is +known as the Pest Basin, and dates from the days when the plague was +raging in Shrewsbury, during the seventeenth century. The custom was for +the townsfolk to cast their money into the water in this basin, whence +it was taken out by the country people in payment for the 'loaves and +fishes' they supplied, thus avoiding in some sort the risk of actual +contagion. + +One of the tombstones here is inscribed with the following laconic +legend: + + 'Here Charles Rathbon hee doth lie + And by misfortun hee did dye + On the 17th of July--1751.' + +Through the quiet of the gloaming we now wend our way townwards again, +the roofs and steeples of old Shrewsbury showing darkly silhouetted +against the golden west as we cross the English Bridge. Thereafter, over +a pipe in the chimney-nook of our hostelry, we fall to 'babbling o' +green fields' and poring over Ordnance maps, intending on the morrow's +morn to quit these scenes of our 'daily walks and ancient +neighbourhood,' and fare forth into the open country. + +[Illustration: Old Windmill at Lyth Hill.] + + + + +FROM SHREWSBURY TO PITCHFORD, ACTON BURNELL, AND CHURCH STRETTON. + + +A silvery mackerel sky, serene and calm, gives promise of a bright Spring +day, as, drawn by the iron horse, we spin along betwixt fields and +hedgerows en route for Dorrington Station. + +Half-way out we skirt the wooded slopes of Lythwood, once upon a time a +royal forest, whence Henry the Third permitted the Hospitallers of St. +Giles's to draw wood for their firing. Presently the gently-flowing +river Cound is seen, travelling Severn-wards through a pleasant, +agricultural country; and then, detraining at the next station, we +shoulder our knapsacks and trudge away in the direction of Stapleton. + +Old hawthorn hedges fling their scented sprays athwart the dusty +highway, and the verdant wheat-fields beyond them are fringed with +feathery cow's-parsley, looking for all the world like green carpets +edged with white lace. The oaks are beating the ash trees this Spring in +their race for precedence, and in yonder grounds a copper beech rears +its magnificent purple dome against the deep blue of the sky--a sight +for sair e'en! + +[Illustration: Stapleton Church] + +Arrived at Stapleton church, we notice that it appears to consist of two +separate and distinct churches, the one superposed upon the other; the +two having been at some past time united by removing the floor of the +upper one, giving to the interior somewhat the appearance of a college +chapel. + +The lower portion of the fabric, with its thick, massive walls and +curiously narrow windows, mere loops, appears to be of early Norman +date; while the plain lancet lights above might belong to the early part +of the thirteenth century. On the south side of the chancel is a pair +of two-light windows filled with simple tracery, and between them is +seen the door that formerly gave entrance to the upper church. Near to +the latter is an arched recess, which it has been conjectured was +originally a nativity grotto. Farther east upon the same wall rises the +pretty sedilia, surmounted by the double cusped arch seen on the right +in the adjoining view. There are little trefoil lights under these +arches, but they are later insertions. + +Upon the pulpit hangs an antipendium, worked in gold and silver thread +with a beautiful scrolly pattern, which, if we are to credit the local +tradition, was wrought by the hands of Mary, Queen of Scots. An Easter +sepulchre, invisible in our sketch, is in the wall beyond; and the two +tall processional candlesticks on either side the altar are exotics +here, having been brought, it is said, from Nuremberg, in Germany. They +are excellent specimens of Gothic wood-carving, and are richly coloured +and gilt. + +Returning into the highroad, we follow it for about a mile, and then +strike away to the right through leafy by-lanes that land us eventually +at Condover, a pleasant, rural-looking village, almost encircled by the +waters of the little river Cound. + +Near the entrance to the village stands a very ancient dwelling-house, +built after the manner of a ship turned keel upwards; the huge oak beams +that support both walls and roof curving upwards from the ground, and +passing through both storeys to meet at the ridge-pole. + +Presently we come to the parish church, a large stone edifice surrounded +by luxuriant foliage, and espy, hard by the churchyard wicket, an old +derelict font doing duty as a flower-vase. The transepts are evidently +of Norman date; while the nave and the fine west tower, though they look +considerably older, were built no longer ago than the middle of the +seventeenth century. + +[Illustration: Condover Hall. Shropshire.] + +From the church we pass on to Condover Hall, a noble structure of the +Elizabethan period, situated on the outskirts of the village. Viewed +through the tall entrance gateway, the old mansion, with its picturesque +gables, stone-mullioned windows and clustered chimney-stacks, presents +a delightfully old-world appearance, which is enhanced by the quaintly +clipped shrubs flanking the broad carriage-drive. + +The west front, shown in a neighbouring sketch, overlooks a wide tract +of park land, studded with gnarled hawthorns and ancient oaks, and +watered by the meanderings of the stream whence the place derives its +name. + +The estate of Condover having been originally purchased by his father, +Thomas of that ilk, Sir Roger Owen, in the year 1598, erected the +existing mansion; calling in master Walter Hancocke, a celebrated +craftsman of that period, to assist in planning his residence. + +Condover passed in after years to the Cholmondeleys, an ancient family +in whose hands the estate continued for many generations, having only +recently been disposed of, and its interesting treasures dispersed. + +[Illustration: Pitchford Hall] + +We now push on for Pitchford, striking the main road at a place called +Cantlop Cross, and following it until we get a glimpse of the old +mansion itself, seated on a verdant slope amidst masses of shadowy +foliage. A winding pathway, overarched by beech trees and ancestral +oaks, meanders through the park, and leads us down to a low stone +bridge, where we pause awhile to enjoy the charming view of Pitchford +Hall, which our artist has portrayed. + +Built by William Ottley, Sheriff of Shropshire, in the early part of the +seventeenth century, Pitchford Hall remains a beautiful and interesting +example of an old English homestead of that period. Nothing can exceed +the picturesqueness of this venerable house, its weather-stained walls +chequered by oaken timbers, its solid stone-tiled roofs carpeted with +lichens and moss, and surmounted by huge crumbling chimney-stacks of +curious design. Embosomed amidst tall trees and luxuriant shrubberies, +with a lordly peacock taking the air upon the sunny terrace, and a clear +stream whimpling along at our feet, the scene is one to be remembered; +such an one, indeed, as this rural England of ours alone can shew. + +But let us take a nearer look at the old Hall. The building, after the +custom then in vogue, is fashioned like a capital E, the shorter member +being represented by a central gable of very unusual appearance, +containing a curious clock. By the courtesy of Lieut.-Colonel Cotes, the +present proprietor, we are enabled to examine the interesting features +of the interior, which contains some notable ancestral portraits, and a +singular sort of picture-map showing the Hall and grounds as they +existed in 1682. In one wainscoted chamber our attention is directed to +a secret closet, or hidie-hole, ingeniously disguised by a sliding panel +very difficult to detect; indeed, every corner of the mansion has its +interest for the antiquary. + +After having been the seat of the Ottley family for considerably more +than three centuries, Pitchford Hall passed in the year 1807 into the +possession of the late Lord Liverpool, who had the honour of +entertaining Her Majesty here when, as Princess Victoria, she visited in +this locality with the Duchess of Kent, in the year of the great Reform +Bill. + +[Illustration: The House in the Tree Pitchford] + +Before taking leave of Pitchford, we pass out into the grounds to visit +the so-called House in the Tree. As shewn in the picture here, this +consists of a small chamber, about 9 or 10 feet square, and covered with +a peaked roof--not much in itself, yet curious from the fact that it is +built, high and dry, aloft in the fork of a huge old storm-rent lime +tree, and is approached by a crooked flight of steps. Tradition avers +that a 'house' has existed in this tree any time these two centuries +past, having been formerly used as a dwelling; and the broken stump of +more than one huge limb shews how severe have been the gales this +venerable lime tree has weathered. + +Upon a slight eminence hard by the mansion rises Pitchford church, a +plain, simple structure, evidently of great antiquity. Built into its +southern wall we notice a rude stone slab, apparently older than the +church itself, with a raised cross enclosed by a circle cut in low +relief upon its surface. An otherwise ordinary-looking interior is +relieved by the handsome, recumbent effigy, of which a sketch will be +found on p. 41. This remarkable monument is entirely composed +of oak, black and smooth as ebony from lapse of time. The figure, some 7 +feet in length, is that of a Crusader, habited in chain-mail, the hands +clasping a sword, and the spurred feet resting upon a couchant dog, or +talbot. Upon the base of the structure are seven trefoil arches, +enclosing shields charged with armorial bearings, all excellently +wrought, and in a good state of preservation. From its general character +there can be no doubt this monument is of very early date; indeed it is +supposed to represent Sir Ralph de Pitchford, who died in 1252. + +Retracing our steps to the bridge, let us turn aside there for a moment +to look at the ancient Pitch Well, a feature probably unique of its +kind, whence the adjacent Hall derives its name. + +The Well proves to be a largish shallow affair of an oval shape, and +about 2 feet in depth, while the surface of the well (which is almost +dried up this drouthy season) has little 'pockets' of semi-liquid pitch, +oozing up from below and partially caked on the top. This bituminous +spring appears, indeed, to have altered but little since Marmaduke +Rawdon visited the spot, during a tour in the seventeenth century. 'Thir +is in this Well,' he observes, 'foure littel Hooles about a halfe yard +diep, out of whiche comes lyttle lumpes of Pitche, but that which is att +ye tope of ye Well is softish, and swimes uppon the water like Tarr, +butt being skym'd together itt incorporateth, and is knead together like +untoo soft wax, and becometh harde.' + +Sketches completed, we now make for the village, and pace on through the +quiet, weedgrown street, where the martins are nesting under the lee of +the old stone-tiled roofs, and the still, sunny air is redolent of lilac +and early honeysuckle. Yonder gable-end with its rough yellow +plasterwork, Venetian shutters, and mantle of purple wistaria, greets +the eye with a pleasant scheme of colour, calling up visions of far-away +Italy. + +Thus we take the road again, until, coming to a green, grassy lane--part +of the ancient Watling Street--we proceed to follow it up. At a point +where the lane crosses a streamlet between hollow, sandy banks, we find +unmistakable traces of a very ancient stone bridge, which, though +undermined by rabbit burrows and damaged by tangled roots and brushwood, +still shews the springing of a massive arch, apparently of semicircular +form, while tumbled blocks of mossy sandstone cumber the stream below. + +'Yo' mun tek along yonder bonky piece till yo' come to th' foredraught, +and then foller it all the way; but 'tis a terr'ble weedy road,' says a +country lad of whom we ask a direction. So away we go once more, with +the blackbirds and thrushes warbling in every hedgerow; until ere long +the homely house-roofs of Acton Burnell come in sight, backed by the +rolling woodlands of the park, which spreads away in gentle undulations +up the slopes of a neighbouring hill. + +[Illustration: Acton Burnell.] + +A pretty, rustic spot is Acton Burnell, its comely thatched cottages, +half submerged amidst oldfashioned country flowers, extending crosswise +along the lanes, and never an inn to be found in all the place! Yet, +despite its present bucolic aspect, Acton Burnell has figured in the +annals of English history, as we shall presently see; so let us now go +in search of records of those far-away times. + +After passing the cosy-looking rectory, with its cedar trees and +sweet-smelling lilac, we soon come to the church, a beautiful structure +replete with interest to the lover of old-world scenes; for Acton +Burnell church was built just at the time when Gothic architecture had +attained its high-water mark, and, though of modest dimensions, so +perfect is every detail, that the little edifice is worthy of close +examination. The annexed sketch shows the fine geometrical east window, +and a beautiful three-light window in the north wall of the chancel. The +tower, though modern, harmonizes well with the older work beside it, and +contains a peal of very sweet-toned bells: + + 'A nut and a kernel! + Say the Bells of Acton Burnell.' + +There is much to be seen in the interior. Near the porch we observe an +elegant font, with small, well moulded arches supporting it. Overhead is +a good oak roof, though not so massive as that of the chancel. A curious +feature of the latter is a small square window low down in the north +wall, supposed to be a leper's, or anchorite's, window, as it appears +probable that an anchorite had his dwelling here in very early times. Or +may not this have been what was known as a 'dead-light,' a little window +whence a light was shown into the graveyard to scare away the ghosts! + +Passing into the north transept, which has ancient tiles upon the floor, +we are at once attracted by the very handsome and well preserved marble +monument of a knight clad in rich armour, a ruff around his neck, a lion +at his feet, and a quaint little figure supporting a helmet above his +head. Near the right hand lies a gauntlet, and within it crouches a +diminutive dog, the emblem of fidelity. Alongside the knight reposes his +lady consort, her costume of ruff and stomacher, girdle and flat +head-dress, bespeaking the time of Queen Elizabeth; while in the +background appear their nine children, habited in the stiff, formal gear +of that period. Beneath the enclosing arch are inscribed the words, 'HIC +IACET CORPUS RICHARDI LEE ARMIGERI QUI OBIIT 27° DIE MAII ANNO DONI +1591.' This fine monument is carved in alabaster, and is surmounted by a +knightly helmet and squirrel crest, and coats of arms with supporters. + +[Illustration: Nicholas de Brunell.] + +In the angle of the adjacent wall is another marble tomb, less elaborate +than the last, but considerably older. Its arcaded sides are wrought +with consummate skill, while the upper surface is inlaid with a handsome +brass effigy of Nicholas de Handlo, who in the year 1360 married the +heiress, and assumed the name, of the Burnell family. A glance at the +sketch will show how well this fine old brass has withstood the wear and +tear of more than 500 years. The knight's head is crowned by a peaked +hauberk, and the soldierly face, with its long, flowing moustache, looks +out from a richly cusped and crocketed canopy. A leather jerkin is worn +over the tight-fitting coat of chain-mail, and a jewelled belt supports +the long-handled sword and dagger. The legs are encased in greaves; and +huge spurs, flexible foot-gear, and gauntlets upon the uplifted hands, +complete the tale of this warrior's battle harness. A couchant lion, or +griffin, keeps ward beside the feet, and upon a brass plate at the head +we read the following inscription: + + Hic iacet diis Nichus Burnell miles dus + De holgot qui obiit xixo die Januarii Anno + Dni Mmo CECmo Lxxxiio Cui aie ppiciet ds am. + +We have by no means exhausted the attractions of this interesting +interior, but, to make a long story short, will merely remark, en +passant, there are numerous objects worthy of note in other parts of the +church. + +A stone's throw distant from the sacred edifice, overshadowed by stately +trees, rise the ivy-mantled walls and turrets of Acton Burnell Castle, +originally founded by Sir Robert Burnell, sometime chaplain and private +secretary to Prince Edward, afterwards King Edward I. It is recorded +that in the year 1284 Burnell received the royal license to crenellate +his castle at Acton, and the picturesque ruin now before us is a work of +that period. + +The castle stands four-square, its length from east to west somewhat +greater than the width, a slender turret rising at either corner. The +moat is conspicuous by its absence, which goes to confirm the theory +that Acton Burnell was rather an early embattled mansion, like its +neighbour of Stokesay, than a military castle of the usual mediæval +type. These massive old ruddy-grey sandstone walls are pierced with +mullioned windows, whose vacant cavities still retain fragments of +geometrical tracery; while a pathetic-looking wooden turret, in the last +stages of decay, peeps out from the mantle of ivy that envelopes the +western front. One or two noble old cedar trees, rising close at hand, +fling their cool, dappled shadows athwart the level greensward; and +beyond them we catch a glimpse of richly timbered park land. + +Out there beneath a clump of elms, where the rooks are making merry, +certain fragments of grey crumbling stonework are seen, so thither we +now bend our steps. These prove to be two lofty massive gables of early +Edwardian, or perhaps Norman, date, the last survivals of the hall of +the original castle, or manor-house, of Acton Burnell. This secluded +spot has become famous from the fact that here, for the first time in +history, Lords and Commons sat in council, under the presidency of King +Edward I., and proceeded to enact what is known as the 'Statutum de +Mercatoribus,' or Statute of Acton Burnell. That took place in the year +of grace 1283, just a year before Sir Robert Burnell began the erection +of the later mansion, whose ruins we have just visited. + +So, before taking leave of the place, we call to mind that when John +Leland the antiquary journeyed this way, early in the sixteenth century, +he found at Acton Burnell 'a goodly manor Place, or Castel, iiii myles +from Shrewsbyri, wher a Parliament was kepte in a greate Barne. It was +first made,' he adds, 'by one Burnell, a Byshope.' Robert Burnell, whose +name is so closely identified with this his native place, seems to have +found favour in the sight of his Sovereign, for Edward I. advanced him +to the see of Bath and Wells, and created his faithful liege Lord +Treasurer, and Chancellor of the realm. Burnell was frequently employed +by the king in affairs of state, especially in connection with the Welsh +Marches; and, dying in 1292, was buried in his own cathedral of Wells. +His descendants dwelt subsequently at Holgate, in Corve Dale, and the +family appears to have finally died out some time in the fifteenth +century. + +On the brow of a hill two miles away to the eastward stands the +diminutive village of Kenley, the birthplace of Sir Archibald Alison, +the historian, whose father was incumbent of this parish. The road +thither leads past Acton Burnell Hall, a large, white, stone-built +mansion, vastly fine with porticoes and pediments, such as our ancestors +loved, and seated in a broad, tree-shaded park, very pleasant to behold. + +[Illustration: Kenley Church.] + +The little church of Kenley is ancient and interesting, having an +aisle-less nave, south porch, and broad, low, western tower, with walls +thick enough for a fortress, and narrow, deeply-splayed loops by way of +windows. The lofty old pulpit, with its sounding-board and curiously +carved oak panels, is a pretty feature of the interior; and the chancel +window, we notice, is of rather uncommon character, having elegant +flowing tracery, and minute sculptured heads outside at the springings +of the hoodmould. + +Out in the churchyard grows a gnarled old yew tree of immense girth; and +from beneath its sombre branches we obtain a glorious prospect over a +wide stretch of picturesque, broken country towards the west, with many +a familiar Salopian height belted with woods and pastures, and the wild +Welsh hills, cloud-capped and blue, rising far away beyond all. + +Returning to Acton Burnell, we now put the best foot foremost, and push +on again in a southerly direction through a hilly-and-daley country. +Just outside the village our attention is arrested by a pair of +patriarchal oaks rising close beside the roadway, excellent specimens of +the 'Shropshire weed,' which, the rustics will tell you, date from just +after the Deluge! Anon we coast beside a belt of woodland all flushed +with the shimmery blue of wild hyacinths; and then pause at the crest of +the bank for a glance at the distant hills, and the steeples of Salop +rising from the vale beneath. + +[Illustration: The Old Gate House. Langley. +Deserted Chapel at Langley, Shropshire.] + +A turn to the left, and yonder is Langley Chapel, standing ruinous and +deserted in the midst of a weedgrown meadow, its weather-stained walls +and broken roof presenting such a lamentable spectacle of neglect and +desecration, that the very genius loci must shed tears, one would +suppose, to behold its sorry plight. The exterior is simple, not to say +severe, a crazy wooden bell-cot above the western gable alone relieving +the skyline of the solid old stone-tiled roof, while wooden shutters, +all awry, obscure the ancient windows. + +Even worse, if possible, is the state of affairs within; for the sacred +edifice presents all the appearance of having been used as a cattle +stall or sheep pen. Yet amidst all the dust, mildew and litter, a sharp +eye may still discover here and there traces of better things. Opposite +the door by which we enter rises the old canopied Reader's pew that +figures in our sketch, its panelled roof set about with the nests of +house-martins, the little denizens twittering to and fro while we +sketch. And yonder beneath the broken east window are ranged the desks, +tables and benches, just as they were left by the old Puritan +worshippers, a curious if not unique feature of the church; while on the +opposite side may be noticed some of the original seventeenth-century +oak pews, with their bits of finely executed carving, quaint hinges, and +nicely turned finial knobs. The date 1601, cut on one of the tie-beams +of the roof, gives a clue to the age of the building. + +'Scarce a myle from Acton Burnell,' says John Leland, 'standeth Langley +Hall, seated very low and flat in a Parke full of woodds, the dwelling +place of the Lees, whiche may well challendge to be ranged among the +families that are of the better worthe and greater antiquitie in the +tract.' Langley Hall is now, alas! no more, but the Gatehouse seen in +our sketch conveys some idea of the appearance it must have presented. +This fine old structure probably dates from about John Leland's time, +and, though fallen sadly into disrepair, still delights the eye with its +rough, mossy roofs, huge chimney stacks, and ancient, weather-stained +gables. A tall pointed archway constructed of stone formed the approach +to the original mansion; and part of an embattled wall that surrounded +the demesne does duty nowadays as a cartshed. + +Langley was, as we have seen, for many generations the paternal abode of +the Lees, a family of much repute in this locality. Richard Lee, whose +handsome monument we saw in Acton Burnell church, was a scion of this +house, which at a later period claimed some distinguished sons in +America, Colonel Richard Lee having emigrated to that country in 1641. +General Henry Lee served under Washington, and his son Robert became +famous as the leader of the Confederate armies during the Civil War in +America. + +[Illustration: Frodesley Lodge] + +So much, then, for Langley. Sketches completed, we now shoulder our +knapsacks, and push briskly onwards again, dropping into a secluded lane +that runs between low, wooded hills, in the direction of the south. Away +upon the crest of the ridge to our right stands Frodesley Lodge, a +singular looking pile of Tudor brickwork, with a great stone staircase +running from top to bottom, and several large oak-panelled chambers. +Down in the vale beyond lies Frodesley village, where Sir Herbert +Edwardes, the hero of Mûltan, first saw the light, his father being +rector of Frodesley at that time. The church was rebuilt in 1809, and is +a fair sample of the dismal 'style' then in vogue, about the only relic +of antiquity that has survived being the ancient parish register, the +oldest in this county, dating from 1598. + +A mile or two to the westward lies Longnor, a pretty village with +thatched, half-timbered cottages, rising with nonchalant irregularity +beside the highway. Longnor Hall, a substantial red-brick structure, +stands in the midst of a finely timbered park, in one corner whereof +rises the early eighteenth-century chapel, a curious little edifice with +the pigeon-hole pews of the 'churchwarden' era, and gates carefully +locked lest, perchance, the lover of old things should spy out the +nakedness of the land! + +[Illustration: Ancient Bridge on the "Devil's Causeway."] + +But we digress. Upon overhauling the Ordnance sheet, the name 'Devil's +Causeway' whets one's curiosity, and puts one upon the qui vive for what +may lie in store. Nor do we have long to wait, for, coming to a brook in +the bottom of the vale, our lane is carried across it by a little +round-arched stone bridge, showing unmistakable signs of antiquity. The +lane, too, becomes as we proceed a veritable causeway, both it and the +ancient bridge being rudely paved with large, thick, roughly squared +flagstones, partly hidden beneath grass and weeds, and forming a kind of +kerb above the ditch by the laneside. + +Tradition has it that this causeway marks the track of an old, old road, +that in prehistoric times ran across country from the Watling Street, +near Acton Burnell, to the Roman encampment at Nordy Bank, on the +shoulder of Brown Clee Hill. + +Anent the origin of the bridge itself, an old countrywoman +good-naturedly comes to our aid, and solves the riddle by explaining, +'It was the Devil as builded un up in one night, and when cock-crow come +er dropped they stwuns down in a hurry out of's apern, and flew away to +his own place.' + +Thus enlightened we go our ways, and, breasting the hill, come by-and-by +to Chatwall, a large, antiquated farmhouse, approached through a sort of +cutting in the solid limestone rock. Though ignored by the guidebooks, +Chatwall is evidently a place that 'could a tale unfold,' had its old +grey stones but tongues wherewith to tell it. The house, a big old +structure, solidly built of timber and stone, with rough, stone shingled +roof, and low-browed, mullioned windows, was for many a day the home of +the Corfields, a family of distinction in these parts, whose initials +appear upon the carved oak panelling, with the date 1659. The +farm-kitchen inside might have served as a subject for Van Ostade, so +rude and primitive it is, with its great oaken settle in the ingle nook, +and mighty Jacobean table, inches thick, so constructed as to well-nigh +double its length when fully extended. + +[Illustration: Panel at Church Preen] + +Through crooked byways, abloom with bluebells and gay pink campion, we +now make our way to Church Preen, a tiny hamlet set in a romantic dell, +'far from the madding crowd.' Overshadowed by a gigantic yew, the little +church stands as a sort of appendix to Norman Shaw's handsome, +half-timbered manor-house, the residence of Mr. Sparrow, the lord of the +manor. Dedicated to St. John the Baptist, this church is a singular one, +being only about 12 feet wide, though as much as 70 feet in length. It +has neither aisles nor transepts, and is of early character, having +formerly been used by Cluniac monks as a cell or chapel to Wenlock +Priory. Though plain and simple to a degree, the interior looks bright +and well-cared-for, and boasts a richly carved lectern and pulpit, with +the date 1641 cut upon a panel. + +Once more afoot, half an hour's walk through shady lanes, with scarce a +cottage in sight, leads us past a large, curious-looking old farmhouse +at Holt Preen, and so up the hill to Plash. + +[Illustration: Plash. Shropshire.] + +Seated upon a gentle eminence within its own walled demesne, the +Manor-house of Plash is one of the most remarkable and interesting +places in all this countryside. The mansion is a large, substantial +brick structure, whose tall, twisted chimney stacks, and lofty mullioned +windows, indicate that it was built in the days of Henry VIII. or +Elizabeth, the low screen wall and ogee cupolas being additions of a +later period. + +Inside there is a noble sixteenth-century banqueting hall, with open +timbered roof, and minstrels' gallery, supported by a massive oak screen +of Jacobean character, at one end; and several fine wainscoted +apartments with enriched plaster ceilings. An elaborate old fireplace of +_cast-iron_, dated 1574, is a noticeable feature. Altogether the old +mansion remains pretty much as originally built, affording an +interesting study to the antiquary. + +The manor of Plash, or Plaish, was held for many generations by the +Sprencheaux family, the last of whom, Sir Fulk Sprencheaux, died in +1447. His portrait, and the armour worn by him, may be seen hanging upon +the panelled wall in the banqueting hall at Plash. After them came the +Leightons, by one of whom the existing mansion was probably erected; +while a later scion of the same stock was a certain William Leighton, +whose sumptuous monument we shall presently see when visiting Cardington +church. + +But the day wanes, and it is still a far cry to our night's bivouac at +Church Stretton. So pushing merrily onwards, we call no halt this side +of Cardington, our lengthening shadows bringing up the rear, and a +cuckoo rehearsing his tedious lay from a solitary wych elm in the +hedgerow. + +[Illustration: Cardington. Salop.] + +The village lies high on the hills, in an out-of-the-way locality, and +very picturesque the old place looks as we draw near, its weatherbeaten +grey church crowning a gentle rise, a group of children playing +'hide-and-seek' about the churchyard wicket, and half a dozen antiquated +cottages clustering loosely around--rough old stone-built structures +most of them, with moss-grown roofs, and diamond-paned windows blinking +from beneath the deepset eaves. + +But let us step into the church. Entering beneath a seventeenth century +timbered porch, its round-arched doorway and the two small Norman lights +on either side the nave shew that the fabric is of ancient origin, +although its more striking features date from a much later period. The +panels of the oak pulpit are effectively carved, while some of the older +pews bear the names of local manors, or townships, cut upon them. + +[Illustration: Leightons of Plashe.] + +In the chancel stands the rich, sumptuous monument of Sir William +Leighton and his lady, with their children grouped in a panel of the +substructure below. 'THIS MONUMENT WAS MADE,' as the inscription runs, +'IN THE YEAR 1607, AS A MEMORIAL TO WM LEIGHTON OF PLASHE, ESQ., OF +NORTH WALES, ONE OF THE COUNCELL IN THE MARCHES OF WALES FOR ABOVE +FORTIE YEARES.' Then comes the moral, 'NEMO ANTE OBITUM BEATUS.' A very +quaint monument this. Curious, too, are the Bell-ringers' Laws set up on +the tower wall. + +Bidding farewell to Cardington, we have a good half-mile of collar work +before us, ere the brow of the hill is won close to a singular mass of +tumbled rocks called the Sharpstones, whence the view opens out towards +Wenlock Edge, with Brown Clee peeping over it. + +Plunging into a steep stony lane, a likely-looking field path suggests +the possibility of a short cut; but, calling to mind the Spaniard's +proverb, 'No hay atajo sin trabajo'--no short cut without trouble--we +consult an old fellow who happens along just now. 'Yon's a weedy road,' +is the best he can say for our byway, 'the medders be all-of-a-pop +(boggy) down that-a-way.' + +[Illustration: Chalice at Hope Bowdler.] + +So we stick to our last, and push forwards again along the stony lane; +and half an hour later find ourselves at Hope Bowdler, a lowly hamlet +seated in a sheltered vale, in the lap of the Cardington hills. Passing +the wheelwright's shop, with its fascinating jumble of rough timber and +derelict carts, we turn through the old lich-gate and take a peep at St. +Andrew's church, a poorly-restored edifice with a carved oak Jacobean +pulpit, and a plain but well-proportioned silver chalice, bearing the +date 1572 upon its lid. + +Up, up we go once more, with the hills folding in as we advance, and the +curious Gaerstone rock sticking up, like a miniature Matterhorn, high +above the roadway. Diverging to the right, we soon drop into a sweet +secluded 'cwm' beneath the shadow of giant Caradoc, whose rugged crest +fairly bristles with huge rocks, as though Titans had been playing bowls +up there. Anon we are footing it athwart the open hillside, pushing +through gorse and breast-high bracken, and inhaling the odours of wild +thyme and the thousand scents of summer. + +Grandly the Longmynd bulks ahead as we descend into Stretton Dale, his +massive shoulders rising purple against the amber light that still +irradiates the western heavens, while the shadows of evening enfold as +with dusky wings each nook and recess of the mountain. The lights of +Church Stretton twinkle out through the gloom as we beat up for quarters +at last, and a certain snug hostelry to which we now make our way proves +a welcome haven after our long day's cross-country tramp. + +[Illustration: Sir Ralph of Pitchford.] + + + + +STRETTON DALE AND THE LONGMYND, A VISIT TO STOKESAY CASTLE. + + +Church Stretton is 'a pretty uplandish Townelett, the cheifest Building +that is in Stretton Dale.' Thus wrote John Leland in the time of King +Henry VIII., and his description holds good to-day. Lovers of Nature +will congratulate themselves on the fact that the 'cheifest Building +'scarce attains the dignity of a town, which is seated in the midst of +one of the most charming localities in all Shropshire, an excellent +centre for anyone bent upon exploring the heather-clad hills and upland +valleys by which the place is surrounded. + +The railway train that carries the traveller thither climbs steadily +up-hill all the way from Shrewsbury, halts for breath, so to speak, at +Stretton station, and then starts away upon a downward grade, following +for many a mile the southward flowing streams. Lying thus high and dry, +Church Stretton is one of the healthiest places imaginable, thanks to +pure water, and mountain breezes fraught with an invigorating tang from +their journey over leagues of gorse, heather and bracken. + +Right through the vale, from north to south, runs the ancient green lane +still known as Watling Street, rubbing shoulders as it goes with the old +winding coach-road, and with that modern parvenu the railway track. For +this Stretton valley has time out of mind been the great main artery of +travel for man and beast, whether faring towards the cities of the +north, or journeying into South Wales. + +[Illustration: Church Stretton.] + +Church Stretton village--or should we say town?--rambles in by no means +unpicturesque fashion alongside the old highroad, half way or +thereabouts between Shrewsbury and Ludlow. Just off the street, at the +rear of the Buck's Head Inn (formerly the manor-house of Church +Stretton), stands the parish church of St. Lawrence, a fine cruciform +structure shaded by noble old elms, amidst whose green foliage its +venerable grey tower, adorned with the image of the patron saint, rises +with charming effect. + +[Illustration: Church Stretton.] + +[Illustration] + +The chancel is evidently the work of Norman hands, but an archaic little +image, carved above its southern door, looks like an insertion from some +earlier edifice. And there are other features well worth looking at in +the nicely-proportioned interior; notably a fine thirteenth century +roof, some curiously carved oak panelling round about the altar, and +groups of heads peering out with odd effect upon the sculptured capitals +of the pillars. + +Bonham Norton's fine old timbered market house, built in the year 1617, +has, unfortunately, been stupidly destroyed not so very long ago--'it +was politics as did it' is the dark saying of an old inhabitant; and its +place is now usurped by a sorry red-brick substitute of the meanest +character. Though the tide of modernization has already set in here, +there are still a few ancient timbered gables with lattice-paned windows +shewing here and there about the village, and they appear all the more +venerable, perhaps, in contrast to their spick-and-span neighbours. + +Overlooking Church Stretton upon its western side rise a series of tall, +green, rounded hills, outposts of the broad backed Longmynd. In and +between these run deep, hollow dingles, or 'gutters,' as they call them +hereabouts. + +Such is the Carding Mill valley, by which we may climb to the crest of +the ridge, whence a shrewd walker may push on to the solitary pole that +marks the top of the Longmynd, some 1,700 feet above the sea. If by good +fortune the day be clear, the wanderer may reckon on a widespread view +from the summit of the Longmynd; tumbled blue hills shewing all around +the horizon, like waves on a stormy ocean. An ancient grass-grown +trackway traversing these highlands is referred to in old documents as +the 'King's hie waie on Longemunde.' + +Wayfarers are few on these upland byways, where the hill ponies are +often the only signs of life, and no sound breaks the stillness save the +whirr of a startled grouse, or the plaintive pipe of the curlew; 'there +the winds sweep, and the plovers cry.' + +[Illustration: Church Stretton & the Longmynd.] + +Bright and exhilarating looks the Longmynd in its summer panoply of +heather and golden gorse; and picturesque in the extreme when Autumn +brings the 'whim berry' gatherers, with their camp-fires and steaming +kettles, and merry shouts of children. But very different is the scene +when this vast, unenclosed moorland falls under the stern sway of +winter, and every landmark is obliterated by a mantle of untrodden snow. +At times like these the Longmynd bears an eerie name, for lives not a +few have been lost in attempting to traverse its trackless wastes, and +places here and there bear ominous names such as Deadman's Hollow, +Devil's Mouth, Deadman's Beach, and the like. Moreover the last fair of +the year, held at Church Stretton on St. Andrew's day, has acquired the +title of 'Deadman's Fair,' as men returning from it have been known to +perish while endeavouring to reach their homes beyond the hills through +the wild, mid-winter night. A remarkable if not unprecedented experience +was that which befell the Rev. Donald Carr, the present rector of +Woolstaston, who was lost in the snow upon Longmynd for a night and a +day, in January, 1865. + + * * * * * + +Extending our rambles somewhat farther afield, a few minutes' run by +train beneath the steep, wooded slopes of Caer Caradoc, brings us to +Leebotwood, the first station Shrewsbury-wards on the railway. The +village itself lies a quarter of a mile away, under a smooth green hill +called the Lawley, but is worth a detour for the sake of its pretty +thatched cottages, with their flowery garden plots and wealth of +creepers, and its quaint oldfashioned inn yclept The Pound, which bears +the date 1650, and does duty also as village post-office. + +Past Leebotwood church, a small stone edifice overarched by umbrageous +beech trees, we push on along the dusty highway, which, gradually +ascending, affords fine views over the countryside, and a glimpse of a +round green 'tump' called Castle Hill, a prehistoric camp keeping ward +over the ancient Portway, which extends hence along the brow of the +Longmynd to Billing's Ring, near Bishop's Castle. + +[Illustration: Woolstaston Church, and Rectory.] + +A turn of the road reveals the village of Woolstaston, with its +diminutive church overshadowed by three gigantic yew trees, and snug +timbered rectory house, home of the Rev. Donald Carr, whose marvellous +adventures, when snowed up on the Longmynd, have been recorded in an +interesting little work entitled 'A Night in the Snow;' adventures which +seem to confirm the old adage that 'truth is stranger than fiction.' + +[Illustration: Font at Woolstaston.] + +Woolstaston church, despite its small size, is well worth a passing +visit. The chancel is entered through a doorway of true pre-Norman type, +its semicircular head being fashioned from one single stone, while the +jambs retain the holes for a wooden cross-bar. But the most notable +feature of the church is a singular pair of fonts, one standing within +the other, as depicted in our sketch. Both are evidently very ancient, +and of archaic simplicity, the lower and seemingly older one being +supposed to have originally belonged to a chapel, long since destroyed, +that stood not far from here. + +Woolstaston Hall, now a large farmhouse, stands near the church. It must +have been a fine place in its time, if we may judge from a noble +panelled parlour, with a polished oak floor fit to make young people's +feet itch for a dance, and a massive stone portal, fronting upon the +garden to the rear, evidently the main entrance to the mansion in its +original state. + +In the secluded country to the north of Woolstaston one stumbles upon a +bunch of out-of-the-way villages and hamlets, anent which runs the +following quatrain: + + 'Cothercot upo' the Hill. + Wilderley down i' the Dale, + Churton for pretty Girls, + And Powtherbatch for good Ale!' + +In the same quarter lies Beatchcott, a place boasting a history of its +own, having been granted by Henry III. to Haughmond Abbey, an oratory +being in existence here at that time. Beatchcott subsequently passed to +the Ireland family, coming eventually into the possession of the +Wildings, who have held the estate for over three hundred years. + +At Ratlinghope, a few miles away, the Black Canons of St. Augustine had +a small cell, or priory, founded in John's reign, and affiliated to +Wigmore Abbey. + +Returning from Woolstaston to Church Stretton, we pass by Womerton, +where the older of the two fonts in Woolstaston church was found; and +then, skirting the unenclosed uplands, we drop into the highroad at or +about All Stretton. + +Anent these names of Stretton hangs a tale that runs somewhat as +follows. King Charles II. (or was it James?), journeying one day towards +Shrewsbury, came in due course to Little Stretton. 'How call you this +place?' inquired the Merrie Monarch. 'Stretton, an it please your +Majesty,' was the countryman's reply. '_Little_ Stretton, methinks, were +a fitter name for so small a place,' said the King; and set forth again +towards Shrewsbury. Upon arriving at the next village, Charles again +asked where he was. 'At Stretton, sire,' someone answered. Espying the +parish church, whose bells were making music in the old grey steeple, +his Majesty exclaimed: 'Call it rather _Church_ Stretton,' and went his +way once more. Finally the King came to All Stretton, and being again +informed he was at Stretton, 'Stretton!' cried Charles in astonishment, +'why it's _All_ Stretton about here!' The story, if not absolutely true, +is at least 'ben trovato.' + + * * * * * + +The road from Church Stretton to Craven Arms traverses a pleasant, +smiling vale, with the Quenny brook wimpling along amidst water meadows, +and broad breezy hillslopes stretching up and away beyond the rich, +rolling woodlands that nestle around their flanks. + +A short mile out of the village we strike up an isolated knoll, whose +summit is seamed with the green ramparts of Brockhurst Castle, an +ancient stronghold keeping ward over the Watling Street, of whose +history very little is known. Brockhurst was a royal foundation, and in +Henry the Second's reign was held by Engelard de Pitchford, the famous +Hubert de Burgh being Castellan in the year 1226. As early as Queen +Elizabeth's time the place, it is evident, was already deserted; for +Camden, writing at that period, finds there 'are still remaining the +ruins of an ancient castle, called Brocard's castle, surrounded by +verdant meads which anciently were fishponds.' But the site is an ideal +spot for the genus picnicker, by whom its bowery nooks and secluded, +fern-clad dingles are often-times frequented. + +On descending to the highroad, we notice the level strath where +doubtless the fishponds lay. Soon afterwards we come to Little Stretton, +a tranquil hamlet charmingly located in a nook of the Longmynd, over +against the beautifully-wooded hill of Ragleth. The cottagers, we +observe, take a curious delight in garnishing their doorways with +derelict cannon-shot, which they find in the neighbouring gullies after +artillery practice on the Longmynd. Blackleaded and brightly polished, +they stand sentinel on either side the rustic porch; an innocent billet +indeed for these truculent bullets! + +At the farther end of the village two humble inns, the Green Dragon and +the Crown, stand vis-à-vis on either side the highway; and, in these +modest hostelries, visitors may possibly identify the rival 'houses' +that figure in Beatrice Harraden's story of Shropshire life, entitled +'At the Green Dragon.' + +Pushing on now to Marsh Brook, we turn sharp to the left at the rural +post-office, and work our way up-hill to Acton Scott, a high-lying place +some 700 feet above sea level--'Acton-super-Montem' it is called in +ancient documents. + +Passing through the churchyard wicket, we pause beneath an enormous +hollow yew tree to scan the rare prospect over the rolling Stretton +hills, and a glimpse down the vale towards Ludlow. Of the church itself +there is little to be said, save that it has a good plain old oak +roodscreen; so we stroll on beneath an avenue of noble beech trees, and +presently come in sight of Acton Scott Hall. + +[Illustration: Acton Scott Hall.] + +As may be seen in our sketch, the mansion is a simple, massive brick +structure, with stone quoins at the angles, mullioned windows, and +clustered chimney shafts; altogether a very fair specimen of an +ancestral abode of the gentlefolk of a bygone period. And the place has +an added interest for all local antiquaries, as the home of the late +Mrs. Stackhouse-Acton, author of 'Castles and Mansions of Shropshire.' +Acton Scott Hall was in all probability erected by a certain Edward +Acton, who flourished about the middle of the sixteenth century; and it +has been noticed that the mansion bears a considerable resemblance to +its contemporary, the so-called 'Whitehall' at Shrewsbury. + +A steep 'pitchy' lane, descending the hill past the cosy-looking +vicarage, now leads us across a stretch of rough common-land, where the +cottagers' geese seem disposed, more suo, to contest our right-of-way. +Thence by narrow lanes draped with ferns and wild flowers we travel on +to a place called Alceston, and at an elbow of the road come +face-to-face with the old derelict homestead that figures below; its +weather-stained roofs tufted with green mosses and house-leeks, and +overshadowed by a few ragged fir trees; while the black old timbers upon +its faded front are wrought into balusters and quatrefoil patterns. + +[Illustration: Alceston.] + +In its palmy days Alceston seems to have been a place of some +consequence, having been built by Humphrey Hill (a connection of the +Hills of Court-of-hill), who died here in 1585. The house was originally +much larger, great part of it having been pulled down many years ago. + +Over against this ancient dwelling rises a very large and happily quite +unrestored old barn, entirely constructed of oak both inside and out; a +pleasing contrast to those modern monstrosities of galvanized iron, that +too often stare one out of countenance amidst these rural byways. + +Through a pleasant, well-tended country, relieved by scraps of +common-land, we win our way to Wistanstow, a comely-looking village +extending along a quiet road, on the line of the ancient Watling Street. + +Close beside the highway rises the old grey tower of its parish church, +a fine cruciform structure dating from 1180, A.D. Upon the nail-studded +south nave door hangs a so-called 'sanctuary' ring, and the great +wooden lock with its iron letters I.P.C.W., and date 1696. The walls of +the south transept bear well-executed writings of the Creed, the Lord's +Prayer and the Decalogue, of early seventeenth century date; while the +north transept retains its old original oak roof. The chancel door shews +the characteristic round arch and quaintly-carved capitals of the Norman +style. + +[Illustration: Halford Church & Mill] + +We have now but to steer a straight course for awhile, as the Watling +Street fares forward between its trim, green hedgerows. But anon we go +astray once more in order to get a nearer look at Halford church, which +peeps invitingly out from a leafy nook on the opposite bank of the Onny. +The little church, though considerably modernized, bears traces of no +mean antiquity, and with an old flour-mill down in the vale below is +reflected in the stream at our feet, affording as pretty a coup d'oeil +as anyone could wish to see. + +So having 'bagged' a sketch of this pleasant scene we take it easy +awhile, lying prone amidst the clover-scented grass and the buttercups +under the shade of an old pollard willow, and watching the troutlets as +they rise at the silly gnats, and the swallows flashing by in the +sunlight. Then, giving Craven Arms village the go-by for the present, we +tramp the dusty half-mile of highroad that leads to Stokesay Castle. + +[Illustration: Stokesay Castle. Shropshire.] + +Presently the old grey-green walls and mossy roofs of castle and church +come into view beyond a clump of trees upon our right, arousing great +expectations of matters antiquarian; for, as Dr. Jessop truly remarks, +'when a man is bitten with a taste for old castles and earthworks, it is +all over with him.' + +Half fortalice, half manor-house, Stokesay Castle rears its ancient +turrets in the midst of a green, sylvan vale, the luxuriantly wooded +heights that rise on either hand giving a sense of restful seclusion; +while one or two farmsteads, nestling beneath the old ivy-mantled walls, +lend a home-like air to this pleasant, rural scene. + +Making our way around to its south-western side, we obtain what is, +perhaps, the best general view of the castle; its hoary towers and +gables appearing from this point mirrored in the placid surface of a +large pool, which in olden times supplied water to the moat. + +The venerable structure that now rises so picturesquely before us is +regarded by antiquaries as an almost unique example of a +thirteenth-century mansion which has been fortified at some period +subsequent to the erection of the domestic portion of the buildings, +thus reversing the usual order of things. + +Hence the tall crenellated tower that figures conspicuously in our +sketch is not, as would at first sight appear, the oldest part of the +castle, but was built at a later period in order to protect John de +Verdon's already existing mansion, whose mossy gables and tall mullioned +windows are seen farther away to the left. The curious-looking bastion +beyond, with its quaint, overhanging upper story, is a remarkable +feature of the edifice; its lower portion, pierced with loops for +archery, being probably older than any other part of the castle, though +the half-timbered gable above is a comparatively modern addition. + +In the background rises the low grey tower of the parish church, an +interesting old edifice untouched as yet by restoration, whereof we +shall see more anon. + +[Illustration: The Gate-House Stokesay Castle.] + +We now proceed to the Gatehouse, a beautiful structure of timber and +plaster dating from Tudor times. Grey, worn, and weather-stained as they +are, its solid old oaken timbers bid fair to outlast many a long year +yet; while the huge angle corbels and the spandrils above the gateway +are boldly carved with the quaint, humorous conceits of the mediæval +craftsman. The story goes that in the last century this Gatehouse used +to be frequented by a fugitive, outlawed in the days when forgery was a +capital crime, who hid snugly away in some secret closet of the interior +until the hue-and-cry was well on its way elsewhere. + +Let us now make our way within. A substantial oak door, nail-studded, +and loopholed for the use of muskets, admits us into the courtyard; +beyond whose level greensward rise the picturesque gables of the ancient +Banqueting Hall, its mullioned windows flanked by massive buttresses, +and surmounted with a wavy old stone-slated roof beautified by lush +green mosses and splashes of golden lichen. + +Passing within, we find ourselves in a nobly proportioned hall, whose +open-timbered roof is supported by sturdy oaken beams springing from +stone corbels of elegant design. Upon either side rise lofty traceried +windows; and in the floor we see the stone slab which supported the +brazier, whose smoke has blackened the rafters overhead. + +At one end of the hall a rude sort of staircase, composed of solid oak +steps, gives access to other rooms in the northern wing of the castle; +and in the opposite wall is a shouldered doorway, leading to storerooms +and nondescript cellars. High up in this wall are seen two tiny, +shuttered lights, which give upon the Banqueting Hall from an upper +chamber. + +To this apartment, known as the Solar, we now make our way; climbing +thither by a flight of stone steps out in the open courtyard. With its +magnificent carved oak mantelpiece and handsome wainscoting, the Solar +must have been far and away the most sumptuous chamber in the castle, +and was probably used as a kind of parlour, or withdrawing-room, for +ladies, and guests of the better sort. This view is strengthened by the +presence of the two 'peep-hole' windows before mentioned, whence the +occupants of the Solar could, themselves unobserved, keep an eye upon +the festive scenes that went forward in the Banqueting Hall below. + +The mantelpiece above mentioned is quite a marvel of elaborate +ornamentation, of that rich, florid style, in vogue towards the close of +the seventeenth century. The base of the structure, surmounting a plain +stone fireplace, is effectively carved with bold, conventional foliage, +and a pear pattern in the spandrils; while the upper portion is divided +pilaster-wise, by grotesque figures, into panels enriched with masks +surrounded by intricate strapwork. A sketch of one of these panels may +be seen by turning to p. 59, where it forms a tailplate to the +chapter. + +Both wainscoting and chimney-piece retain remnants of colour and +gilding; and the chamber is lighted by traceried windows bearing a +general resemblance to those of the adjoining hall. + +Old records tell of historical portraits at 'Stoke,' as it was then +called; and we can well imagine they adorned the walls of this very +apartment. Here was 'ye Picture of Charles ye Fyrst'; there, 'ye Picture +of Charles ye Seconde'; and yonder, 'Theodoric Vernon, alias Vernon with +ye redde Hand, alias the Proud Vernon, with a gold Chaine about hys neck +with a Medall at the bottom.' What with its panelled dadoes, handsome +chimney-piece, old portraits looking down from the walls, and armorial +quarterings in its stained-glass windows, the Solar must have afforded a +seductive retreat from the amenities of those rough times. + +A climb to the summit of the great tower is rewarded by a capital coup +d'oeil of the castle and its pleasant environs; so now, before taking +leave of this interesting spot, let us travel back for a moment into the +domain of history. + +In the Conqueror's time 'Stoke' was held by the famous Roger de +Montgomery, passing subsequently to the de Lacys, until it was bestowed +by Walter of that ilk on the family of Say, whose ancestors had fought +by Duke William's side at the Battle of Hastings. Having reverted to the +de Lacys, the last of that line bestowed the castle upon his son-in-law, +John de Verdon, who about 1240 A.D. erected the present Banqueting Hall. + +Half-a-century later, we find a certain Lawrence de Ludlow obtaining +permission to 'crenellate his Castle at Stoke-Say,' at which time the +courtyard wall, and possibly the southern tower, may have been erected. +John Leland, passing this way on his 'Laborieuse Searche for England's +Antiquities,' tells us, with scant regard for topographical accuracy, +that 'Mr. Vernon hath a place not farre from Oney, aboot iiij miles out +of Ludlo, in the waye betwixt Ludlo and Bishop Castle. Stoke-Say +belongeth sometime to the Ludlo's, now the Vernons, builded like a +Castell.' These were the Vernons of Haddon Hall fame, from whom Stokesay +passed by purchase to the Earls of Craven. + +During the Civil Wars the castle was held by Sir Samuel Baldwyn, of +Elsich, and was garrisoned for King Charles; but after a short +investment fell into the hands of the Parliamentarians, who defeated and +routed a troop of Royalists, 200 strong, close to a place called +Whettleton, in the meadows below Norton Camp, on the eastern side of the +vale. Thereafter the castle was 'slighted,' or rendered incapable of +defence. + +Stokesay Castle is now the property of H. J. Allcroft, Esq., by whom the +old place has been put into a reasonable state of repair, and its +ancient features carefully preserved. Those who care to know more about +this interesting fortified Manor-house, may obtain at the Gatehouse an +excellent little guidebook to Stokesay Castle by the Rev. J. D. la +Touche, the late vicar of Stokesay. + +[Illustration: Stokesay Church.] + +Stokesay Church, though originally Norman, was in large measure rebuilt +in the seventeenth century, as recorded upon the keystone of the tower +arch, 'Ano. Dom. 1654, this church was rebuilt by the pious oversight +of George Powell, Gent., and George Lambe, Churchwarden. This Arch was +given by John Cheshire, Joyner.' A tie-beam of the chancel roof bears a +date of ten years later. + +Since those times the sacred edifice has remained practically untouched, +and consequently presents an appearance of rural simplicity, very +grateful to look upon in these 'restoration' days. The oak pulpit, with +its curious sounding-board above, and the beautiful double canopied pew +in the chancel, are excellent examples of Jacobean carpentry; while some +of the old high-backed pews retain their original wrought-iron hinges, +and touches of carved work here and there. + +Recent researches have revealed, beneath the whitewash of the +'churchwarden' era, certain scriptural texts upon the walls, whose +quaint, appropriate sentiment will not be lost upon the beholder. +Alongside the pulpit, for example, runs the legend, 'As new born Babes +desire ye Sincere milk of ye Word, that ye may grow thereby.' There, +too, is the Credence, with the name 'Ponce Pilate,' after the olden +fashion. + +A primitive west gallery partially obscures the well-proportioned Early +English arch opening into the tower, which latter is broad, low and +massive, and part of the original church. Outside are some very fair +seventeenth-century table tombs, one of them having its fluted pillars +scooped away in an unaccountable manner. + +Before retracing our steps towards Craven Arms, we strike up into the +woods above Whettleton, in order to visit Norton Camp, an early British +earthwork altered and adapted, as is supposed, by the Romans, which +commands both the ancient Watling Street, and the Castle road going into +Corve Dale. Its mounds are large and lofty, especially upon the western +side, where the hill falls steeply to the plain, and we obtain glimpses +through the twinkling foliage of far-away heights, extending fold upon +fold to the horizon. Yonder rise the wild hills of Wales, their purple +crests shewing clear and sharp against the glowing sunset sky; while the +full moon climbs above the sombre woodlands of Corve Dale, and beams +adieu to the departing lord of day. + +Then we plunge down through the twilight woods, and, traversing an +ancient suburb paradoxically called Newton, with its fine old +half-timbered mansion house, once the vicarage of Stokesay, come soon to +Craven Arms, where we take up our night's lodging in one of the +comfortable hotels for which the place is noted. + +[Illustration: Carved Panel at Stokesay Castle] + + + + +FROM CRAVEN ARMS TO BISHOP'S CASTLE AND CLUN. + + +Our general objective to-day is the broken, picturesque country lying +around the quiet market towns of Bishop's Castle and Clun; an +out-of-the-way, rural district, less frequented, perhaps, than any other +portion of Shropshire. + +The Bishop's Castle railway, commencing at Craven Arms, affords the +readiest means of approach to the locality. Away to the south as we +jaunt leisurely along we get a glimpse of Cheney Longville, a pretty +secluded hamlet hidden away amidst copses and pasture fields, with never +a highroad near it. Some slight remains of the old fortified manor-house +of Cheney Longville still exist, incorporated with an antiquated +farmhouse containing much fine carved oak furniture. + +The Cheney family, whence the place derives its name, is a very ancient +clan. Roger Cheney was Seneschal to Edward, Earl of Arundel, Sheriff of +Shropshire in 1316. A second Roger held 'Cheney Longfield' in 1341; +while yet another of the same name received license from the King, 1395 +A.D., to embattle his house at Cheney Longville. + +After a while we join company with the little river Onny, as it meanders +through a picturesquely wooded vale, getting delightful glimpses of the +Longmynd as we draw near to our destination, his lower flanks dotted +with old stunty oaks and ancient hawthorns, while gorse and heather +brighten the foreground. + +Coining to Plowden station, we shoulder the knapsacks and bear away to +the southward. + +Crossing the Onny beside a rushing weir, we get a direction for Plowden +Hall from an old fellow in charge of a timber-waggon. 'You'm better tek +up the rack acrass yon bonky piece, and goo through the wicket,' says +our friend, 'you'll be apt to find it a gainer road than the one as goes +through the 'ood.' So we breast the upland meadows, and meanwhile our +gaze wanders over a goodly prospect; hill and vale, chequered by tilth +and pasture-land, lying map-like at our feet, while shafts of sunlight, +touching here and there, relieve the contours of a broken, wrinkled +country, or bring into momentary prominence some rustic homestead +surrounded by barns and haystacks. + +[Illustration: Plowden Hall. Shropshire.] + +Plowden Hall lies perdu until we are close upon it, for the old mansion +nestles in a nook of the hills amidst dark, umbrageous woodlands. Its +broad, somewhat low entrance front is pleasantly quaint and simple, with +nothing imposing about it, though the deep-browed portico and massive +hall door beneath lend a touch of character. But a better view is +obtained by passing to the back of the house, whence our sketch is +taken. + +From this point of view the ancient Manor-house rears its yellow +weather-stained gables, slender chimneys and mossy roofs, against the +rich dark foliage that clothes the rearward hill; while the +close-cropped lawns, the trim yew hedges, and gay-coloured parterres of +the oldfashioned garden in the foreground, form an appropriate setting +for this beau-ideal of an old English homestead. + +Within the mansion one finds a congeries of wainscoted and panelled +chambers, whose walls are hung with ancient tapestry, and adorned by +ancestral portraits of the Plowden family. Here is Edmund Plowden, the +eminent lawyer, who was 'accounted the oracle of the law,' and with +whose memory is associated the saying, 'The case is altered; no priest, +no mass; no mass, no violation of the law'; a saying which in course of +time passed into a common proverb. On the death of his father in 1557, +Edmund Plowden succeeded to the estates, and began the building of the +present Hall. He was treasurer of the Hon. Society of the Middle Temple, +in whose church he lies buried; and might have been Lord Chancellor +under Queen Elizabeth, had he chosen to renounce the ancient Faith of +his fathers. + +The hall, with its carved oak chimney-piece and quaint Dutch tiles, its +panelled walls and oaken floors, has a sombre, dignified air about it. +In one wing of the old house is the private chapel, dedicated to St. +Francis of Assisi, with a portrait of the patron saint attributed to +Michelangelo. Set into the wall of this chapel is a curious old brass, +representing Humphrey Plowden and his seven daughters, which was brought +hither years ago from Bishop's Castle church. In an adjacent corner a +sliding panel gives access to a secret passage-way, by which in the +Reformation days, the officiating priest might at a moment's notice +effect his escape from the mansion. The whole place, indeed, is +honeycombed from cellar to roof with hidie-holes, closets and secret +passages, turning and twisting amidst hatchways and bulkheads, or +terminating in breakneck ladders. One of these queer gangways is said to +lead out to a lonely spot amidst the woods known as the Lady's Chair; +and it goes without saying that the old house has earned the reputation +of being haunted. + +One would suppose the builders of Plowden Hall had had in their minds +the Spaniards' proverb: 'The rat that has only one hole is easily +caught.' + +The Plowden family can trace, it is said, an unbroken lineage from Roger +de Plowden, the Crusader, down to Edmund of that ilk, who died no longer +ago than 1838, nearly 700 years. This Roger distinguished himself at the +siege of Acre, in 1191; and, upon being taken prisoner by the enemy, +made a vow that, if ever he returned in safety to his Shropshire home, +he would build a chapel by way of thank-offering; and, as we shall see +by-and-by at Lydbury North, the pious knight was as good as his word. + +From Edmund Plowden the estate passed to his nephew William, whose son, +W. F. Plowden, Esq., is the present owner of the property. + +Farewell now to Plowden. Our onward way leads beneath a green avenue of +oaks and beeches, whose branches, meeting overhead, cast a dappled +shade athwart the lane, and afford a playground for squirrels, +woodpeckers, and many another of Nature's children. + +Turning our backs upon the low hill where Billing's Ring keeps ward over +the ancient Portway, we skirt the shoulder of Oakeley Mynd, Walcot Park +with its big red-brick mansion and hanging woods shewing right ahead, +with a dark clump of trees cutting against the skyline. Yonder lie Bury +Ditches, a fine old British camp whose lofty crest forms a conspicuous +landmark for many a mile around. + +Avoiding a lot of odd turnings we continue to hug the highroad, which, +trending now in a due westerly direction, introduces us to a pleasant, +open vale, with the tower of Lydbury church peeping out from a grove of +trees in the middle of the village. + +Lydbury North is an ancient place, claiming some consideration. In +Norman days the episcopal manor of Lydbury formed an important appanage +to the Bishopric of Hereford, and the martial prelates of that period +had a great stronghold in the vicinity, which, though long since +dismantled and demolished, has given its name to the neighbouring town +of Bishop's Castle. + +But Lydbury church, having remained virtually unaltered by restoration, +is one of the most interesting edifices of its kind in all Shropshire. +It has a nave and chancel, with north and south chapels, a timbered +porch, and broad, massive tower at the western end. + +The primitive old clock upon the tower vaguely points the time with a +solitary hand, and the roofs of the church are still covered with their +original stone slabs, greatly enhancing the picturesque appearance of +the ancient building. The solid nail-studded porch door bears traces of +bullet marks, and has a pair of fifteenth-century hinges. + +The interior of the church wears an antiquated air, as of primæval +repose, and appears to belong mainly to the twelfth and thirteenth +centuries. Many of the high-backed Jacobean pews are rudely adorned with +carving, as is also the oaken pulpit; while one or two of the former +still have the link and staple, used in the 'good old times' when the +worshippers were accustomed to lock themselves up in their pews, a +habit that affords a curious insight into the everyday manners of a +bygone generation. + +The font looks very primitive and ancient. A good fifteenth-century oak +roodscreen divides nave from chancel, and above it appears the +Decalogue, finely written in old English lettering of the date 1615. The +block of masonry projecting from an adjacent wall was probably a +'penance stone.' + +Above the altar are seen two small stone brackets supporting a pair of +gilded wooden candlesticks, which, according to local tradition, +Archbishop Laud caused to be put there, in place of certain images that +had stood upon them before. + +A stone tablet upon the north wall of the chancel is interesting in that +it records the services of the Rev. J. Ambler, who, after being ousted +from this living by the Covenanters, was reinstated at the Restoration. + +North and south of the nave open out two chapels, or short transepts, +called respectively the Plowden Chapel, and the Walcot Chapel. The +Walcots of Walcot are a family of very ancient descent, who have held +estates in this locality from time immemorial. After their day, the +manor of Walcot passed to the ancestors of Lord Powis, and eventually +came into the possession of no less a personage than Robert Clive, Baron +Plassey, K.B., founder of the British dominion in India, who died at +Walcot Hall in 1774. His name may be seen inscribed in some prayer-books +still preserved in this chapel. Upon the wall above the family pew hangs +the Walcot escutcheon, with three black pawns, or rooks, amidst its +quarterings. + +This is explained by the following note in a pedigree of the Walcot +family, compiled in 1643, referring to a certain John Walcot who lived +in the early part of the fifteenth century. 'This John Walcote, plainge +at the Chese with King Henry the fift, Kinge of England, gave hym the +check-matte with the Rouke; whereupon the Kinge chainged hys coate of +armes, which was the crosse with flower-de-luces, and gave hym the Rouke +for a remembrance thereof, by which he and hys posteritie hath continued +to this daye.' + +The Plowden chapel is separated from the nave by a plain oak screen. As +already mentioned, this chapel was built by an ancestor of the Plowdens, +after returning in safety from captivity in Asia Minor. It is lighted by +several well-proportioned windows of early character, and contains a +much dilapidated stone altar of pre-Reformation date, with two brackets +up above it, probably intended for images. + +In one corner stands a curious sort of grille, or iron railed structure, +bearing traces of colour, and surmounted at one end by a gilded iron +cross. It was customary, we understand, to place this railing around a +newly made grave, to protect it from evil disposed persons. + +The tower walls are enormously thick, as though intended to withstand +attack. The fine old panelled oak nave roof is now hidden from below by +an ugly whitewashed ceiling. The bell-frame up in the belfry is +something of a curiosity, being rudely but effectively carved with +dragon-like monsters having foliated tails. + +We now make for the village inn, with appetites sharp-set for such +rustic fare as the place may haply afford. Half-an-hour later finds us +climbing the ascent of Oakeley Mynd, with a fresh westerly breeze +humming through the tree-tops, and the cloud shadows chasing one another +athwart the genial landscape. + +Instead of going direct to Bishop's Castle, we steer a due northerly +course towards a place named Lea. By so doing we not only avoid a spell +of hard highroad, but get into the bargain a rare outlook across a +hilly-and-daley country, with a wisp of blue smoke trailing away upon +the breeze far off on the shoulder of Longmynd. From the top of the +bank, a thousand feet above sea-level, we look across a pleasant vale, +where the brown roofs of Bishop's Castle are seen nestling beneath +tumbled hills, outliers of Clun Forest. + +Then away we go down a rough footpath, or 'rack,' as they call it +hereabouts; making a bee-line for our destination, and skirting the head +of a deep wooded dingle known as Narrow Dale. Guided by the cheerful +barking of dogs, we presently come in sight of a lonely farmstead; and, +upon stepping round to the rear, descry a group of buildings all jumbled +up together in the manner shewn over page. + +'The remains we see,' writes Mr. W. Phillips in 'Shropshire Notes and +Queries,' 'are probably the walls of the old square keep. They are built +of the Wenlock limestone found in the neighbourhood, and are so well +constructed that the lime is harder than the stone, so that, when an +attempt was made some years ago to utilize the material, it was found to +be less trouble to obtain fresh stones from the quarry. We owe it to +this fact that these ruins remain to awaken our curiosity.' + +[Illustration: Lea Castle.] + +The walls of this old keep are extremely massive, and have several +window and door openings in them of various dates from the fourteenth +century onwards. So much has been destroyed that the original dimensions +of the castle cannot now be ascertained; but the moat may still in part +be traced, besides evidences of fishponds near the little rivulet that +filled them. + +The Manor of Lea formed, in early days, the largest feudal Lordship in +Shropshire held by the Bishop of Hereford. Owing to the exigences of his +position, and the turbulence of those remote times, the Bishop was often +called upon to relinquish the crozier for the sword, and to lead his +lieges against the wild Welshmen; for, in connexion with Bishop's +Castle, Lea formed an important link in the cordon of border fortresses. +The tenant of Lea, indeed, appears to have been under obligation of +doing suit and service at Bishop's Castle, when called upon by the +constable of the latter. + +The old farmhouse alongside has evidently been added to and altered at +various times in a very haphazard fashion. On its staircase is a piece +of timber quartering ornamented with a rude shield on which appear the +words anno. do. 1560, proving that the place can boast a respectable +antiquity. + +Amidst a chorus of 'come-back! come-back!' from the galeney-fowls in the +farmyard, we set out once again upon our travels. Giving preference to +the meadow paths, we presently happen upon a huge block of stone, as big +as a good-sized cart, lying stranded in the middle of a grass field. How +it came there is the puzzle, so we take counsel with an old fellow +breaking stones by the wayside, a furlong farther on. 'Oh,' says he, in +reply to our questions, 'they 'ud used to tell us, when we was childern, +as the Devil fell lame one day a-walkin' by here, and throwed that there +old stwun out of's shoe, and then fled away up to Stiperstones yander. +But that was afore my time, like, and behappen there's never a one now +as can tell the rights on it.' And the country folk have a saying that +the Lea Stone, as it is called, turns itself around 'every time the +clock strikes thirteen.' + +[Illustration: Bishop's Castle. From an Old Print.] + +With the shadows lengthening around we draw near to Bishop's Castle, a +place half town, half village, seated upon a southward sloping hill. It +was always called Lydbury Castle in the olden days, on account of the +castle of that name (built by the Bishops of Hereford to protect their +episcopal manor of Lydbury), which stood in a commanding position at the +top of the town. + +When Henry II. mounted the throne, Bishop's Castle was held by Hugh de +Mortimer of Wigmore, but was regained for the see by the energy of +Bishop Gilbert Ffoliot. In the year 1263, the castle was stormed and its +constable slain by the rebellious John FitzAlan and his followers. A +visitation of Bishop Swinfield, about thirty years later, was long +remembered in the locality, on account of the sumptuous style in which +that prelate lived; indeed his Lordship and his retinue seem to have +'eaten the good people out of house and home,' as the saying goes. + +[Illustration: BISHOPS CASTLE.] + +Bishop's Castle is nowadays but a drowsy little market town, yet proud +withal of being the metropolis of an extensive agricultural district, +and renowned for its great cattle fairs, frequented by breeders and 'men +whose talk is of bullocks,' who are attracted hither by the fine race of +cattle for which this locality is noted. Then, on May 1, has it not its +'Mop,' or Hiring Fair, when the farm hands and servant girls 'break the +year,' as the phrase goes; and you may overhear one goodwife complaining +to another, anent some errant handmaid, ''Er's broke 'er 'ear this +marnin', I'm afeared 'er'll allus be a rollin' stwun as'll never gether +no moss!' + +In bygone times Bishop's Castle was (and for aught we know is still) +ruled by a Mayor and Corporation, with fifteen Aldermen or Capital +Burgesses, a Bailiff, and a Recorder. So early as 1572 the town received +its first charter from the Sovereign, which was ratified by Charles I. +in 1648. + +At the very top of the town, where the old coach roads from Wales +converge, stands the Castle Hotel, one of those large, roomy +caravansarys, frequented by wayfaring men in the days before railways +had come to rob the country roads of their cheerful tide of traffic. To +the rear of this inn lies an oldfashioned bowling-green, whose area +marks the site of the keep-tower of the erstwhile Castle of Lydbury, +built to protect the episcopal demesne against the freebooters of the +Welsh border. + +In Leland's time the Castle was 'well maintenid, and set on a stronge +Rokke, not very hi,' but seems to have been already reduced to ruins +before the time of the Civil Wars. + +Perched on a tall green mound, high above the old town, the position is +certainly a commanding one, affording a fine prospect over the adjacent +country, though now somewhat obscured by trees. Close at hand rises the +old Market House, now the Powis Institute and Reading Room, with the +borough arms carved upon its gable, and the date of its erection, 1781. +Over the door of an adjacent shop we espy the curious surname of +Gotobed, a clan which should be widely represented, one would suppose, +in this Sleepy Hollow! Another old lintel retains some ancient +lettering, with the figures 1685. Then, turning down the steep High +Street, we get a backward view of the town; the prim façade of an +eighteenth-century Town Hall, topped by a slender belfry, seeming to +block up the roadway, and some oldfashioned shops and dwellings flanking +the narrow footpath. + +Presently we come to the church at the farther end of the town, though +tradition avers that, once upon a time, the church stood in the very +middle of it; not that the church has moved, but the town shrunk up into +itself--but that is as it may be. An ancient ivy-clad tower is about the +only relic of the older church which has survived, for, during the +troubles of the Civil Wars, the sacred edifice fell a prey to the +flames, and has only within the last forty years been rebuilt and +renovated. There are some very ancient yews in the churchyard: and a +tombstone near the belfry door bears the following inscription: 'A la +mémoire de Louis Paces, Lieut.-Colonel de Chevaux legers, chevalier des +ordres militaires des deux Siciles et d'Espayne. Mort à Bishop's Castle +le 1re Mai 1814, age de 40 ans.' This must have been one of the French +prisoners who, at the time of the Peninsular War, were billeted at +Bishop's Castle. + +Bishop's Castle forms a good starting-point for exploring a +little-frequented, rural country. Northwards lie Lydham and More, Lydham +church standing, as is so frequently the case in this border district, +cheek-by-jowl with a prehistoric tumulus. More is the ancestral home of +the ancient family of that ilk, whose forbears 'came over from Normandy +with the Conqueror.' + +Then there is Linley, with its stately avenues leading up towards hills +which have been mined for lead ever since the Romans were there. Amongst +these hills stands Hyssington, which we will take leave to visit, though +it lies away outside our county, over the Welsh frontier. + +Anent the church at Hyssington there is a curious tradition. Long, long +ago, in the old Popish days, an enormous Bull made his appearance at +Hyssington, and grew bigger and bigger every day, until the good people +of the neighbourhood went in fear of their lives by reason of the +dreaded monster. At last things came to such a pass that the parson made +up his mind to try heroic measures. So with book, bell and candle, he +sallied forth in quest of the Bull, and, by reading of appropriate +texts, managed to reduce the uncanny beast to such dimensions as would +admit of his being driven into the church. But alack! before the +creature could be finally extinguished, parson's candle had burnt out; +and ere morning came, when the reading could be resumed, the Bull had +swelled out again, until his huge body cracked the church walls from top +to bottom! + +Such is the veracious legend; but whether this Bull hailed from the +Emerald Isle, or belonged to that species known as Papal Bulls, history +recordeth not; but the cracks in the church walls long remained to +confound the incredulous. + +Continuing our perambulation we come presently to Church-Stoke, a +pleasant looking village of half-timbered houses seated on the river +Camlad, one of them bearing upon its gable-end the inscription, WHAT . +IS . HERE . BY . MAN . ERECTED : LET . IT . BE . BY . GOD . PROTECTED : +IOHN . MIDDLETON . GENT . AN . DO . 1685 : ÆTATIS . SUÆ . 27 . R . T . C : + +Returning direct across the hills to Bishop's Castle, we pass through +Broughton, where, it is believed, the Romans had a station. Offa's Dyke, +crossing the hills to the westward, runs near to Mainstone, a village +supposed to acquire its name from a large granite stone standing near +the west gate of the churchyard. From time immemorial it has been the +custom for the village youths to test their strength by heaving this +stone aloft, and then casting it backwards over the left shoulder. The +name of Mainstone, it may be observed, shews the tendency to +reduplication in place-names, for Maen is the Welsh for stone. A still +more curious instance is that of Dollymase-meadow, near Gloucester, each +of the three syllables in this case having exactly the same +signification. + +The old road from Bishop's Castle to Clun traverses a rough, hilly +country, with scarce a place big enough to be called a village all the +way. On the outskirts of the town stands Blunden Hall, a timbered +mansion, old, but much modernized. Anon our way lies up-hill, with the +tree-crowned summit of Bury Ditches rising boldly ahead. + +After surmounting a sort of col amidst the dimpled hills, we begin to +drop downwards into the vale of Clun, and the little town, with its grey +old guardian castle, is seen nestling at the foot of dark, heather-clad +hills, where the drifting cloud shadows linger. By-and-bye, as we march +past the castle and enter the town, the westward-looking houses are +painted in crimson and gold by the glow from the setting sun, while we +dusty wayfarers bear away for the Buffalo Inn, whose hospitable roof is +to be our shelter to-night. + +So taking up our quarters in the Blue Room, we will give the benefit of +the doubt to the local legend, and hold that this is the chamber in +which Sir Walter Scott once slept, and yonder table the very one upon +which the 'Wizard of the North' wrote the first three chapters of 'The +Betrothed'--there is nothing like being precise in matters such as +these. + +Seated upon the banks of the river Clun, on the outskirts of that wild, +hilly district to which it gives its name, the quiet market town of Clun +forms the chief rendezvous for such slender commerce as goes forward in +this isolated part of our County, which time-out-of-mind has acquired +the name of Clun Forest. + +In early Norman days this remote inaccessible region became a sort of +semi-independent Barony, called the 'Honour of Clun,' whose over-lords +obtained the royal license to make conquest on the Welsh, and appear to +have done pretty much as they liked with the goods and chattels of their +unlucky vassals. Nay more, in those 'good old times,' the Lord of Clun +claimed the right to inflict capital punishment, for we read of a +certain William Kempe holding a messuage and croft on tenure of carrying +to Shrewsbury the heads of felons, in order to prove that the right +person had been executed. + +Save for its ruined Castle and ancient saddle-backed bridge, the townlet +is featureless enough; indeed its prim, grey, sober-fronted dwellings +look as though they had stepped across from the other side the Welsh +border. Yet in bygone times the town must have been a place of no +little importance, for we read that, at a survey held in 1605, it was +found that 'the town of Clun, through the whole time whereof the memory +of man does not exist to the contrary, is an ancient Borough +Incorporate, with two Bailiffs, and Burgesses; and the Lord of the town +has two Leet Courts, with a View of Frankpledge, held annually by the +Seneschal for the time being.' + +[Illustration: Carde Doloreuse.] + +A bowshot distant from the town rise the ruins of Clun Castle, whose +tall, grey, lichen-clad donjon looks out over a horseshoe bend of the +river towards the dark Welsh hills to the westward; even as in the days +when Raymond de Berenger, Knight of the Garde Doloreuse, entertained +Gwenwyn Prince of Powys in this lonesome fortalice. + +Here, at Clun, the FitzAlans lorded it for many a generation over the +adjacent march-lands. After many changes and vicissitudes, the castle +passed eventually to the present Duke of Norfolk, who from this place +acquires his second title of Baron Clun. + +With the exception of the keep-tower above mentioned, little remains of +Clun Castle save two ruined circular bastions overlooking the river, and +certain tall green mounds that give a clue to the original extent of the +fortress. The outer bailey with its enclosing vallations is a broad, +tree-shaded grassplot, where nowadays the townsfolk go a-pleasuring on +high-days and holiday times. + +Clun Castle formed a very important link in the chain of fortresses +planted by the Normans along the Welsh frontier, to secure their +hard-won territory and control the turbulent natives. Towards the close +of the twelfth century Rhys, Prince of South Wales, swooped down from +his mountain fastnesses, and after many a fierce onslaught stormed and +set fire to the castle. At a later period the place fell a prey to that +scourge of the Welsh Marches, 'the irregular and wild Glendower,' and +was finally dismantled by the Parliamentarians during the Civil Wars. So +early, indeed, as the reign of Henry VIII., when that ubiquitous +antiquary John Leland journeyed this way, 'Clunne Castell' was 'sumewhat +ruinus,' 'though it hath bene,' he adds, 'bothe Stronge and well +builded.' + +The following lines from 'The Betrothed' have been associated with the +Castle of Clun: 'A place strong by nature, and well fortified by art, +which the Welch prince had found it impossible to conquer, either by +open force or stratagem; and which, remaining with a strong garrison in +his rear, often chequed his invasions by rendering his retreat +precarious. The river, whose stream washes on three sides the base of +the proud eminence on which the castle is situated, curves away from the +fortress and its corresponding village on the west, and the hill sinks +downward to an extensive plain, so extremely level as to indicate its +alluvial origin. + +'The bridge, a high narrow combination of arches of unequal size, was +about half a mile distant from the castle, in the very centre of the +plain. The river itself ran in a deep, rocky channel, was often +unfordable, and at all times difficult of passage, giving considerable +advantage to the defenders of the Castle.' + +Over the old bridge in question lies our way towards Clun church; and, +as the local saw has it, 'Whoever crosses Clun Bridge comes back sharper +than he went.' The bridge itself, with its five uneven arches and bold +sparlings, is still a picturesque object, and in former days was a +favourite subject with artists: though the old cordwainer and his +ancient timber dwelling beside the bridge have long since passed away. + +[Illustration: Old Lych Gate at Clun.] + +So we will push ahead to St. George's church, whose massive western +tower and curious louvred steeple are already in sight, peering over an +old lych-gate in the foreground. This lych-gate is a very charming bit +of ancient carpentry, its solid substantial oak beams shewing excellent +workmanship, with just a touch of ornamentation here and there; while +the roof is covered with rough stone-shingles, overgrown with mosses and +lichens. + +Passing through the wicket, we traverse a rustic grass-grown God's-acre, +beneath the shadow of one of those immemorial yews so common in our +country churchyards. Why they were planted in such a situation has +afforded no little matter for conjecture; whether they were intended as +emblems of immortality, or to serve the more utilitarian purpose of +supplying bows for the English archers who in bygone days formed the +backbone of our fighting line: + + 'Oh the crooked stick and the grey goose's wing, + But for which Old England were but a fling!' + +The strong nail-studded west door of the church has its old iron hinges, +and some names cut in bold Roman letters upon it. The roomy north porch +by which we enter has a chamber, or parvise, over it, and stone benches +against the walls upon either side. The interior is large and spacious, +the fine oak roof being borne upon Norman pillars and arches, while +clerestory windows admit light from the southward wall. A modern screen +divides nave from chancel, and beside it rises a tall Jacobean pulpit +with a sounding-board, all carved in the style peculiar to that period. + +The chancel is lighted by well proportioned windows with Purbeck marble +shafts. Suspended from the chancel roof hangs a curious +fifteenth-century canopy, nicely constructed of oak fashioned into +panels, and adorned with three small carved wooden angels. Its purpose +is uncertain, but it bears some resemblance to the canopied structure +called a baldacchino found in some continental churches. + +In the vestry is a mural tablet to Sir Robert Howard: and the rough old +staircase leading up into the tower is worth a moment's notice, for the +rude simplicity of its construction. The Churchwarden's accounts here +shew that, in the year 1741, the sum of ten shillings was paid 'for +whipping the Doggs out of ye church, serviss time, and keeping people +from sleeping in church During divine serviss.' + +[Illustration: Hospital of the Holy & Undivided Trinity at Clunn.] + +In a retired spot upon the eastern side of the town stands the 'Hospital +of the Holy and Undivided Trinity at Clunn,' a refuge for decayed +tradesmen founded by the Right Hon. the Earl of Northampton, in the year +1614. And truly their lines have fallen in pleasant places, these +grey-headed old veterans; each lowly domicile giving upon a central plot +of greensward, with benches set against the wall in sunny nooks, and an +old wooden pump standing in one corner, with its bucket and chain for +drawing water: + + 'The old oaken bucket, the iron-bound bucket, + The moss-covered bucket which hung in the well.' + +'Eh sure, sur,' exclaims an ancient derelict with whom we chance to pass +the time of day, 'you'm makin' a purty picture of th'owd plaace, I'll +warrand, but I canna see well wi'out my speck-tackles. I binna so young +as I was, ye see, but there's several chaps 'ere as is older nor I be, +and I'm turned eighty myself.' + +A tablet upon the wall of a small chapel, dedicated to the inmates' use, +bears a lengthy Latin inscription in memory of Henry Howard, Earl of +Northampton, who established similar retreats at Greenwich and Castle +Rising. + +According to an ordinance duly advertised upon the wall of the dining +hall, each poor man is entitled to receive yearly, on Founder's Day, 'a +gown ready made of strong cloth or kersey, of a sad colour, to wear upon +Week Days; and also every fourth year, upon Trinity Sunday, have +delivered unto him to wear, such a livery gown of blue cloth lined +with bayes, with the Founder's cognizance set on the sleeve, to wear +upon Sundays and Festival Days.' In the dining hall, too, is preserved +an ancient cross-bow, and a large two-handed double-edged sword about +five feet in length. + +Such, then, is the old Hospital at Clun; so now, after a moonlight +stroll around the environs, we turn in for the night at the 'Buffalo'; +and, far removed from the din of railroad shrieks, or bustle of passing +traffic, sleep the sleep of the just until morning looks in at the +casement. + +[Illustration: SEAL of CLUN HOSPITAL.] + + + + +ROUND ABOUT CLUN FOREST. TO KNIGHTON AND LUDLOW. + + +A glance at the map at the end of this volume will reveal, down in the +south-western extremity of the county, a remote outlying cantle of +Shropshire wedged in, as it were, between the Welsh counties of +Montgomery and Radnor. It is a wild, hilly, somewhat inaccessible +district, even in these days; but in Leland's time the 'faire Forest of +Clunne' was 'a great Forest of redde Dere and Roois,' extending over +many thousand acres, with much timber growing upon it, and 'very faire +and good Game' amongst its holts and hollows. + +In and out through this sequestered region wind the clear waters of the +Clun, rippling along past rustic crofts and breadths of gorse and +fernbrake, and giving its name to a group of quiet villages and hamlets +upon its banks: + + 'Clunton and Clunbury, Clungunford and Clun, + Are the sleepiest places under the sun'-- + +as the saying goes, though one may vary the epithet ad lib., and +substitute drunkenest, dirtiest, etc., as fancy dictates. Towards the +south the country falls away to the broader valley of the Teme, which, +flowing past Knighton and Coxwall Knoll, forms the southern boundary of +the Forest, and parts England from Wales. + +Camps, earthworks, etc., dotted plentifully throughout the locality, +bear witness to the days when might was the only right, and every man's +hand was against his neighbour. Tradition avers that Caractacus made his +last stand against the Romans amidst the fastnesses of Clun Forest; and +Offa's Dyke, the ancient boundary of Mercia, traverses the district from +south to north on its way from Severn to Dee: + + 'There is a faymous thinge + Calde Offa's Dyke, that reacheth farre in lengthe: + All kinds of Ware people might thither bringe; + It was free ground, and calde the Britain's strengthe.' + +But it is time to be up and doing, for we must measure many a mile over +hill and dale to-day. Old Sol is already abroad, and a light +sou'westerly breeze is rustling the fresh young foliage as we fare forth +upon our peregrinations; while the thirsty soil emits a grateful smell +after the rain of yesternight. + +Down the village street, then, we take our way, noticing the legend +'Ironmonger, Dahlia Grower and Poultry Breeder,' over an enterprising +tradesman's door. Setting a course up the vale of Clun, we drop into a +meadow path that, keeping company with a hollow, waterworn gipsy lane, +affords glimpses of the ruined castle, and so brings us presently to +Whitcot. Near Whitcot we notice an old grey maenhir, or standing-stone, +eight feet high, nearly as broad, and only about six inches in +thickness. + +With the hills closing in upon either hand we push onwards along the +valley, falling into a leisurely pace as the sun warms to his work. +Another mile and we come to Offa's Dyke, a huge green mound overshadowed +by beech trees, whose course can be easily traced as it crosses the +valley and climbs the shaggy hill slope beyond. 'Aye, that's Awf's +Ditch, right enough,' says an old fellow tilling the hedgerow, 'and now +you be in Wales a'this side, like, but it's a cankersome country to live +in, I can tell yer.' + +At Newcastle we find ourselves in a scattered hamlet overshadowed by +certain round green hills, whose topmost crests are scarped with ancient +camps or earthworks, whereof the name is legion hereabouts. This part of +the Forest, west of Offa's Dyke, was known in olden days as the Manor, +or Honour, of Tempseter, a district of Shropshire won from the Welsh +before Edward I. was King. + +Presently we take leave of the Newtown road, and, crossing the infant +Clun at a place called Dyffryn, march away through leafy lanes en route +for Bettws-y-Crwyn. Our road goes from bad to worse as it straggles up +the bank, degenerating at last into a downright Welsh byway, so that, +like Agag of old, we have to 'walk delicately' amidst the ruts and +rivulets which do duty as a thoroughfare. + +Passing two or three outlying cottages where shock-headed children are +playing around the doorways, we come in sight of Bettws-y-Crwyn church, +a little lonely fane perched so high aloft on its hill-top as to look +down, so to speak, upon every other church throughout the county; indeed +with one or two exceptions it is, we believe, the most loftily situated +church in England. + +The name of this place affords an interesting clue to its history. For +Bettws-y-Crwyn, being interpreted, signifies the Bede-house of the +Skins; having been so called since, in ancient times, the shepherds who +frequented these lonesome hills had a Bede-house or Chapel here, and +paid their tribute of skins or hides to Chirbury Priory. + +Up here in the churchyard we get a wonderful outlook over the hills and +dales of south Shropshire, which are seen stretching away for many a +league in picturesque gradation, with Brown Clee Hill bringing up the +rear beyond the dark ridges of Wenlock Edge. + +We now step inside the church, an ancient timeworn structure whose low +grey stone walls, narrow windows and simple bell-cot, look thoroughly in +keeping with the circumjacent landscape. The old font, once the pride of +the church, was broken into pieces when the church was 'restored' about +half a century ago, and used, it is said, to repair the churchyard +walls! + +[Illustration: Bettws-y-Crwyn] + +By some lucky chance, the ancient roodscreen has escaped the hand of the +spoiler, and forms to-day the most notable feature of the little +edifice. It is massively constructed of oak grown black with lapse of +years, and its gothic arches are wrought into delicate tracery work. + +This lofty screen rises to the tie-beam of the roof, whose curved +principals, moulded brackets and quatrefoil panels are fashioned, as +tradition tells, from Spanish-chestnut wood. Solid oaken benches of the +most primitive construction occupy the nave; their ends displaying the +names of various farmhouses, locally termed Halls, such as +Hall-of-the-Forest, Moor Hall, Cow Hall, etc. + +[Illustration: Chalice at Bettws y Crwyn] + +By favour of the Vicar, we are able to give a sketch of the Bettws +Communion cup. It is of silver, bearing the London hall-mark and the +date 1662, and is ornamented, as may be seen, with a repoussé flower +pattern. Though inferior in design to vessels of an earlier period, such +as the beautiful Bacton chalice, this little cup is a very fair example +of the silversmith's art of the seventeenth century. + +Our way now lies past the vicarage, a modern house standing 'four-square +to all the winds of heaven,' and so loftily placed as to be a landmark +for miles around. Thence we push on due northwards across the high, open +moorlands of Clun Forest, a 'dizzy' country, as they say hereabouts, +whose contours are revealed to our sight by shafts of sunlight radiating +from the western sky. Patches of golden gorse interspersed amidst +bracken and heather fill the air with their warm, rich scent, as we +follow the devious trackway; and a shrewd, pungent whiff of peat-reek +salutes our nostrils while passing a lonely cottage, for coal is a +luxury unknown up here, seven long miles from any railway-station. + +Old ways and antiquated customs linger yet in this 'back'ardly' +neighbourhood, where education has much ado to make headway against +ignorance and ancient prejudice. The time-honoured 'Wake' still holds +its own in Bettws parish; and rushlights, it is said, are in use to this +day in some of the isolated farmhouses towards the Welsh border. + +[Illustration: The Cantlin Cross.] + +Following a bridle track, we descend into a secluded dell which holds +the head waters of the Clun. Then, mounting up through a pine wood, we +come out upon the open braeside over against the Cantlin Cross, or +Cantlin Stone as it is sometimes called, whose counterfeit presentment +appears in our sketch. The cross itself, though handsomely carved, has +no particular claims to antiquity, having been erected, as we are +informed, about forty years ago by the late Mr. Beriah Botfield, +sometime M.P. for Ludlow. The design, however, is evidently an antique +one; and on the ground in front of the cross stands a low, flat slab of +grey limestone, rudely inscribed with the legend W . C: DECSED . HERE : +BVRIED . 1691 . AT . BETVS: + +The initials are those of a certain William Cantlin, who, travelling +through the wilds of Clun Forest in the above mentioned year, met his +death at this spot, and was buried at Bettws-y-Crwyn. It is said that +upon one occasion the stone itself was produced in a court of law, in +order to prove that the place where Cantlin died was situated in the +parish of Bettws. + +Upon passing through a gate in the adjacent coppice our eyes are +gladdened by a vision of folding hills, green fertile vales, and distant +cloud-capped mountains, the giants of Wild Wales--a glorious panorama! + +Presently we hie away once more upon our travels, retracing our steps to +the main road, and swinging along at a good round pace, favoured by the +downward grade. Past Hall-of-the-Forest we go, not much of a place, +despite its imposing name, though originally built by Anne, Lady +Mautravers, some time in the sixteenth century, and hence formerly +called Ladye's Hall. + +At Newcastle we strike up the hills to the southwards, recrossing old +Offa's Dyke and following the crest of the ridge. 'Weather's looking +very brewin',' remarks a brother tramp; for storm-clouds, gathering in +the west, hover grand and gloomily above the darkening ridges of Radnor +Forest; so, putting the best foot foremost, we spin along the +grass-grown bridle-path under the lee of the wind-tossed hedgerow. Out +leaps the lightning, the thunder rolls, and the tempest swoops down in a +whirl of seething rain-scuds; but what care we, for here in the nick of +time is the Buffalo Inn at Clun, with a good meat-tea piping hot on the +parlour table, and a cheery fire sparkling in the grate. + +So while the elements work their will abroad, and the rain drops patter +at the casement, we sit within bien and cosy, canopied like gods in +clouds of tobacco-smoke; 'fighting our battles o'er again,' and +discussing plans of campaign for future excursions amidst 'fresh woods +and pastures new.' + + * * * * * + +The morrow, then, sees us early astir, and taking the road ere the city +man has opened his morning paper. And before the first mile is left +behind, we find reason to congratulate ourselves on having made an early +start, for the way is parlous steep, and the sun already rejoicing like +a giant to run his course. So at a leisurely pace we breast the +ascent--'chi va piano va sano,' as the Italians say--with big, rounded +hills rising upon either hand, one of them having a strange sort of +quarry-like chasm, called the Rock of Woolberry, scored deep in its +wooded flank. This collar-work continuing for a matter of two miles or +more, brings us to a moorland crest about a thousand feet above +sea-level, whence the eye ranges over leagues of broken country, with +the play of shine and shadow chequering its varied surface. + +At a place bearing the euphemistic title of New Invention, we quit the +hard highroad and make a bee-line up the open hillside, until we find +ourselves in the vast, prehistoric encampment, known as Gaer Ditches, or +Caer Caradoc. The camp proves a fine example of an early British +earthwork, being oval, or rather pear-shaped, in form, and protected +upon its most vulnerable western flank by three concentric lines of +entrenchment; while upon the east, where the natural declivity is more +abrupt, there are but two, with traces of an entrance way in each of +these faces. + +Tradition has been busy about this interesting spot. We are to believe +that once, in days remote, Caractacus stood here at bay against his +enemies. Nay, is not the stream at the foot of the hill still called +Redlake river, because for three whole days its waters ran red with the +blood of the combatants? And down yonder in the vale is Lurkinghope, +where tradition tells the vanquished Britons 'lurked in hope' of +retrieving their fortunes, while lying in ambush near the defile at Garn +Gap. + +However that may have been, we now lay our course for Stow, a tiny +hamlet nestling in a wild rocky cirque called Ragged Kingdom. Our route +lies over Stow Hill, whose summit is marked by the blackened cairn of +the 'Diamond Jubilee' bonfire. + +But lusty appetites, begotten of fresh air and hours of steady tramping, +now demand instant satisfaction. So down we sit, and, whilst feasting +our eyes on the beauties of the landscape, we regale the inner man on +more material fare: the pile of sandwiches becoming 'small by degrees, +and beautifully less,' as the moments flit by. A drink of clear water +under Holloway Rocks, and a pipe or two as we lie on the short, warm +turf, and like giants refreshed we go our ways in search of new +adventures. + +[Illustration: Stowe. Shropshire.] + +Coming anon to Stow, we borrow the key from the neighbouring vicarage, +and armed with this 'open sesame' proceed forthwith to the church. + +This diminutive house of prayer has one or two notable features. A good +open-timbered roof spans the nave, traces of a rood-loft being visible +overhead where it joins the chancel, though no approach to it can now be +discovered. A massive oak communion table is about the only remnant of +ancient fittings here. A small wooden bell-cot rises above the western +gable, and the walls of the church, which are unusually thick, are +pierced with modernized windows. + +Bidding adieu to this lofty yet lowly hamlet, we traverse a narrow green +lane where the hedgerows are a-tangle with dog-roses, briony and +'traveller's-joy,' besides many another familiar wayside wildling. In +two miles we find ourselves at Knighton, a pleasant, busy townlet, just +within the Radnorshire border. + +Here we board the first up-train that comes along; the railway line +hugging the frontier, and affording glimpses of the hill country amidst +which we have recently wandered. Near Bucknall station we catch sight of +Coxwall Knoll, an isolated tree-clad monticle surrounded by ancient +entrenchments, where some authorities locate the scene of Caractacus's +last tussle with Ostorius. Bucknall village is close at hand on the +brink of the Redlake river, its grey church tower just peeping over the +trees that clothe the hills in the background. There is a curious old +font in Bucknall church with a sort of interlacing pattern carved around +its bowl, the date whereof is uncertain. + +Running past Bedstone, we alight at Hopton Heath station, shoulder +sketching gear, etc., and trudge away to Heath House, which lies a short +mile to the southward. Heath House, the residence of Chas. Seaton, Esq., +is a large, substantial edifice, dating mainly from the latter part of +the seventeenth century, and seated in a broad park-like demesne. + +[Illustration: Staircase at Heath House, Clungunford.] + +The interior of the mansion contains several handsome, panelled +apartments, adorned with pictures and curios that reflect the artistic +taste of their present proprietor. But the most notable feature of the +house is an elaborate old staircase hung with ancient tapestry, which, +as may be gathered from our sketch, is a marvel of massive construction. +Its huge oaken handrails and newels, and even the twisted balusters, +look as strong and simple as possible, and much of the work has the +appearance of having been fashioned with the axe. The topmost flight of +all, said to have been brought from Hopton Castle, is little better than +a ladder in point of convenience. + +Broadward Hall, the next-door neighbour to Heath House, is a plain stone +building chiefly remarkable from the fact that it is built, so to say, +around a curious circular staircase. In the grounds abutting upon the +river Clun rises an artificial tump, surmounted by a group of lofty elm +trees. Via Broadward Bridge we now make our way to Clungunford; +diverging a little to take a look at Beckjay Mill, in bygone days a +favourite haunt of David Cox, the artist. + +Clungunford village, rambling beside the river Clun, has a well-restored +church, flanked by a prehistoric tumulus. St. Cuthbert's church is well +worth a visit, for its ancient features have been faithfully preserved, +including one of those singular 'leper' windows that have so often +proved a bone of contention to archæologists. + +On a sunny bank overlooking the river Clun stands Clungunford House, the +residence of J. C. L. Rocke, Esq., Lord of the Manor. Half a mile away +upstream is Abcott Manor-house, a large old half-timbered structure now +used as a farmhouse. A big, curiously moulded chimney stack, is a +noticeable object as we draw near; and, being shewn within, we pass +from one old dilapidated chamber to another, admiring its wainscoted +walls and plastered ceilings, which, beautiful even in decay, still +display queer heraldic monsters, lions, stags, unicorns, goats, parrots, +etc., engaged amidst interlacing strapwork. One or two old lattice-paned +windows here retain their original wrought-iron fastenings. + +Abcott was for many generations the abode of the Princes, a family now +extinct in this locality, though there are monuments in plenty to them +in Clungunford church. + +The Rocke Arms at the end of the village is a rustic inn of the homely, +oldfashioned sort, quite equal to providing a pint and a chop, or +finding, at a pinch, a night's lodging for the passing traveller. So +here we call a halt awhile to refresh the inner man, before tackling the +cross-country lanes that are to lead us to Hopton Castle. Pleasant it +is, as one jogs along these rural byways, to see the country children +curtseying to the stranger as he passes, a custom all too rapidly +falling into desuetude in these 'independent' days, when young brains +are crammed with undigested facts, while the character is left to make +shift as best it may. + +[Illustration: Hopton Castle. Salop.] + +In a nook of the hills to the westward stands Hopton Castle, a grey old +Norman keep-tower, seated in a curiously low exposed position near the +banks of a stream. Traces of ruined outworks indicate that the place was +much more extensive in former days, when it figured in some stirring +episodes of March-land history. By Camden's account, Hopton was +presented by Henry II., to Walter de Clifford, of Clifford Castle in +Herefordshire; and towards the end of the thirteenth century we find +Roger, Lord Mortimer, of Wigmore, in possession of the Castle. Passing +later to the Corbets and the Wallops, Hopton Castle held out stubbornly +for the King at the time of the Civil Wars, but in 1644 was captured and +demolished by the Parliamentarians, its garrison put to the sword, and +Samuel Moor the Governor marched off to prison at Ludlow Castle. + +A curious old grant, by right of which the 'Heyres-mayle of ye Hoptons' +held this Manor of William the Conqueror, runs to the following effect: + + 'I, Will, King, the third of my reign, + Give to the Northern Hunter, + To me that art both Luine and Deare, + The Hoppe, and the Hoptoune, + And all the bounds, up and downe, + Under the Earth to Hell, + Above the Earth to Heaven,' etc. + +Returning by a different route direct to Hopton Heath station, we pass +through Broome, 'change' upon arriving at Craven Arms, and run down past +Stokesay Castle to Onibury, whose church has an ancient, possibly +pre-Norman, chancel arch, and one or two other good features. On the +outskirts of the village stands Stokesay Court, the handsome modern +residence of H. J. Allcroft, Esq., Lord of the Manor, and owner of large +estates in this locality. + +Alighting at Bromfield station we make our way to the village, as +picturesque a spot as one could wish to see, situated in a pleasant, +fertile vale, close to the place where Onny and Teme unite. At the end +of the village street we traverse an old, grey, many-arched bridge, +spanning the lively Onny, near which rises a row of lofty, storm-rent +poplars, still known as the 'Twelve Apostles,' though several veterans +have succumbed to the gales in recent years. + +A furlong further on we espy a picturesque old building pierced by a +wide stone archway, and chequered with timber quarterings, over which a +fine elm tree casts its dappled shadow. This was the Gatehouse of +Bromfield Priory, a Benedictine monastery, whose history carries us very +far back into the 'queer old crumpled-up past,' for the annals of +Domesday Book shew that, even in the Conqueror's time, Bromfield was a +place of some consequence. + +Originally a college of secular canons, the monastery became later on an +establishment of Canons regular of the Benedictine order; receiving +benefits at the hands of King Henry II., in whose reign Bromfield Priory +became affiliated to St. Peter's Abbey at Llanthony Secunda, near +Gloucester. + +Bromfield church, whether regarded as a prominent feature in a fair +landscape, or examined in the details of its architecture, cannot but +afford the visitor much pleasant matter for contemplation. Seated upon +one of those waterside meads the monks of old so frequently selected, +its broad, massive tower and weather-stained gables are seen mirrored in +the stream that winds around the churchyard, and with the ancient Priory +ruins, flanked by a group of dark firs rising clear against the sky, +makes a charming study for the artists' brush. + +Internally, too, the church has many points of interest. The chancel +arch of the old Priory church may be discerned in the eastern wall, the +chancel itself having been pulled down when the parish came into +possession. A remarkably handsome modern triptych is a noticeable +feature of the church, contrasting favourably with the plaster ceiling +overhead, whose colour-decorations have been aptly described as 'the +best specimen of the worst period of ecclesiastical art.' + +Crossing the Teme by an old stone bridge, we enter Oakley Park, a +glorious stretch of ferny glades and secluded woodland dingles, boasting +such Druid oaks as it would be hard to match elsewhere. Right ahead rise +the richly timbered slopes of Bringwood Chase, a picturesque range of +hills, whose topmost crests are crowned by three conspicuous clumps of +trees, landmarks for miles around. Oakley Hall, a red-brick Georgian +mansion, lies off upon our left, and is chiefly remarkable for its +uncommonly beautiful situation on the banks of the Teme, overlooking +some of the choicest scenery in the district. + +Away towards Downton lie certain parcels of land known to this day as +'Crawl Meadows,' and thereby hangs the following tale. Once upon a time, +a certain fair maid having plighted her troth with a valiant but +impecunious knight, the angry sire vowed her sole dower should be just +so much land as his daughter could crawl over, on hands and knees, +between sunset and dawn of day. Commencing her journey at Bromfield, the +young lady travelled with such vigour that, by the time old Sol peeped +over the hills again, she was well on her way to Downton, a good four +miles, as the crow flies, from her starting-place at Bromfield. + +But the waning daylight warns us to be astir, while the towers of Ludlow +Castle, rising darkly against the eastward sky, tell we are within a +measurable distance of our journey's end. + +So betwixt fields and hedgerows we now hasten along, exchanging a 'good +e'en' with the cottagers as we trudge through a wayside hamlet, and +coming to a bridge over Teme, where the last of the daylight flickers +upon the waters of a rushing weir. Then up a steep way through Dinham, +passing a dusky old building, now a coach-house, but once a Gothic +chapel, and rounding the outskirts of the castle: the homing rooks in +the elms overhead announcing our arrival in their own vociferous +fashion. + +Thus through narrow, crowded, oldfashioned street, we come to our +night's bivouac at Ludlow; promising ourselves a treat on the morrow in +exploring the memory-haunted precincts of this historic border-town. + +[Illustration: Branks at Ludlow.] + + + + +ROUND ABOUT LUDLOW. + + +Ludlow town occupies a fine, commanding situation upon a sort of knoll, +or promontory of high land, encompassed upon its southern side by the +windings of the Teme, whose waters, flowing through a picturesque defile +beneath the limestone scarps of Whitcliff, here divide Shropshire from +its neighbour of Hereford. + +What the place was like in olden times we may gather from the records of +John Leland. 'The town of Ludlow,' he observes, writing in the reign of +Henry VIII., 'is very propre, welle walled and gated, and standeth every +way eminent from a Botom. In the side of the Town, as a Peace of the +Enclosing of the Walle, is a fair Castel. Within the Town, even yn the +mydle, is one Paroch chyrch. There be in the Wall 5 gates. Broad gate +leadeth to Broad Street, the fayrest part of the Towne. The Castel +standeth on a strong Rocke, well ditched, between Corne gate and Mille +gate. The Paroch church is very fayre and large, and richly adorned, and +taken for the fayrest in all those Quarters.' + +The town, then, as Leland has it, 'standeth every way eminent from a +Botom,' with the noble old church of St. Lawrence crowning the brow of +the hill, so that its tall, ruddy tower forms a notable landmark to the +good folks of the whole countryside. + +Upon the western flank of the town, just where the declivity is most +precipitous, rise the ruins of Ludlow Castle; that magnificent +stronghold of the Lords Marchers, to which the place owes its ancient +fame. To the Castle, then, let us first of all direct our steps. + +[Illustration: Sir Henry Sydney's Gateway. Ludlow Castle.] + +Approaching by way of Castle Square, we enter upon a broad, smooth +stretch of greensward, encompassed by stone walls and old ruined +structures, the Base court or outer Bailey of the fortress. Before us +rises a noble pile of buildings which constitute the main fabric of the +castle. Grey and weatherworn, shrouded in ivy, and overshadowed by tall +sycamore trees, these venerable ruins compose a scene picturesque to a +degree, whereof the sketch upon the opposite page may convey some +impression. + +[Illustration: Ludlow Castle & Church.] + +In the centre rises the great Keep or donjon tower, a vast substantial +structure of the Norman period, whose massive walls, pierced with +narrow, round-arched openings, little better than loopholes, contrast +strikingly with the mullioned windows and slender, roofless gables that +appear alongside. These latter, as is recorded by an inscription above +the entrance gateway, owe their inception to Sir Henry Sydney, President +of the Welsh Marches in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, whose arms, +conjoined with those of England and France, appear in a panel above the +archway, with the date of erection, 1581. + +An isolated tower away to the left is one of the most ancient portions +of the castle. It is known as 'Mortimer's Tower,' from a tradition that +Hugh de Mortimer was imprisoned within its walls towards the close of +the twelfth century. But that is another story, whereof more anon. + +Let us now pass on to the inner ward, which is surrounded by tall, +irregular structures, whose crumbling walls and battlements have been +brought to a rare state of soft, harmonious colouring, by the mellowing +touch of time. + +Out in the courtyard, detached from all its neighbours, rises a small +circular twelfth-century chapel, whose beautifully enriched, semi-headed +west doorway and curiously carved string-course, bespeak the Normans' +handiwork. This chapel is almost unique of its kind in England. The fine +chancel arch still remains, but of the chancel itself only the +foundations can now be traced. In former days the chapel was hung with +'Armes in colours, sitch as fewe can shewe,' + + 'So bravely wroughte, so fayre and finely fram'd, + That to the Worlde's end their beauty may endure!' + +We now pass out again into the green courtyard. Turning our backs upon +the entrance way we see before us an extensive group of buildings, now +roofless and half in ruin, yet stately in their decay. In the centre, +approached by a sort of sloping gangway, rises a noble hall, a spot +famed in local history as the scene of the earliest performance of +Milton's 'Masque of Comus.' One of the adjacent chambers is pointed out +as that occupied by Prince Arthur, son of Henry VII. + +Beside the Keep-tower are the scanty ruins of the castle kitchen, which, +to judge from the fireplace, an enormous oven, and some rusty iron +utensils of proportionate size, must have been on a scale commensurate +even with the needs of this vast mediæval ménage. Close at hand is the +castle well, which, though not enclosed within the area of the Norman +keep, is not far away from it, and was probably protected by its +adjacent outworks. + +Down in the basement of the keep is a dark, vaulted chamber, far below +the surface of the ground. This was originally used as the castle +chapel, whereof two well-proportioned Norman arches still remain, +supported upon slender pillars with simply ornamented capitals. A +curious arrangement of walls and passages here has given rise to an +obscure myth concerning lions, or other wild beasts, having been kept in +this chamber to devour obnoxious prisoners, when it was used at one time +as a dungeon. + +Well, to make a long story short, a climb to the top of the ancient +Keep-tower forms a fitting finale to our explorations; for the prospect +from its lofty battlements is extremely varied and picturesque. The +castle precincts, lying at our feet, look very green and pleasant amid +their setting of verdant foliage. Beyond a group of tall elms appear the +old tiled roofs of the town, dominated by the stately tower of St. +Lawrence's church, while the bold outline of Titterstone Clee Hill rises +far away in the background. Towards the north lie the Stretton hills, +enclosing a luxuriant vale, followed by the dimpled heights that mark +the whereabouts of Clun Forest. Directing our gaze towards the south, a +goodly scene meets the eye where the Teme, winding through its hollow +gorge, washes the lower slopes of Whitcliff, whose rough, rocky terraces +merge higher up in the rich masses of woodland that clothe the +hillsides. + +Many a time in the dim, forgotten past, have these old walls re-echoed +to the making of history. At the date of Domesday Survey the Manor of +Ludlow was held by Roger de Lacy, by whom the Castle was built. + +Joce de Dinan, 'a strong and valiant knight,' who was Lord of Ludlow in +King Stephen's reign, was constantly at feud with his rival, Hugh de +Mortimer of Wigmore, until, having captured that knight by an ambuscade, +he shut him up a prisoner in the loftiest tower in the third ward of the +Castle, which to this day retains the name of 'Mortimer's Tower.' + +Under King Stephen and his successor the fortress passed through a time +of storm and stress, marked by some stirring incidents. A romantic story +turns upon the adventures of Fulk FitzWarine and Hawyse, daughter of +Joce de Dinan; and the intrigues of Arnold de Lisle with that 'very +gentle damsel,' Marion of the Heath. + +Early in the thirteenth century Ludlow Castle was seized by King John, +who, during his great struggle with the Barons, carried fire and sword +throughout the Welsh Marches. Henry III. visited Ludlow in the course of +his Border wars, and concluded there a treaty of peace with Prince +Llewelyn. During this and the succeeding reign the Mortimers, Lords of +Wigmore, attained to great influence, and eventually secured by marriage +their claim to the English crown. + +Richard Plantagenet, during his chequered career, was often at Ludlow +Castle, where he was besieged by the King in October, 1459. Treachery in +the camp, however, proved the ruin of Richard's cause, and the +Lancastrians captured and plundered the castle. + +After suffering eclipse, the fortunes of York were once more retrieved +at the famous Battle of Mortimer's Cross, fought a few miles from +Ludlow. At a later date Edward IV. sent his two boys for safe keeping to +Ludlow Castle; and Arthur Tudor, Prince of Wales, son of Henry VII., +spent a portion of his short life within its precincts. + +The Court of the Presidency of Wales, established about this period, +figures largely in the subsequent history of Ludlow; and by the middle +of the sixteenth century the town and castle had risen to the zenith of +their fortunes. At the time of the Civil Wars Ludlow Castle was held for +the King, and proved a hard nut for the Parliamentarians to crack, being +the last stronghold in Shropshire to fall into their hands. In 1689 the +Court of the Marches was abolished, and as a result the Castle was +finally allowed to fall into a state of ruin and decay. + +A truce, now, to history. Retracing our steps to the castle-garth, we +pass through the outer doorway and fare forth into Ludlow town in search +of antiquarian spoil. Our quest is quickly rewarded, for at yonder +street corner, beyond some tall elms, rises the Castle Lodge, a +picturesque structure of timber and plaster, built by Thomas Sackford, a +burgess of Ludlow, in Queen Elizabeth's reign. Sackford held the office +of Master of Requests under that Sovereign, and in 1572 was appointed +Porter, and Keeper of the Prisoners in the Marches of Wales. The ancient +timber quartering of the upper story has only recently been brought to +light from beneath its coating of modern plaster; a laudable +restoration, which might well be imitated in the case of other old +Ludlow house-fronts. + +In Castle Square, hard by, stands the new Market-house, a spick-and-span +production of the 1887 Jubilee year. Its older prototype was a plain, +unobtrusive brick edifice dating from the time of Queen Anne; of which +period one or two large, roomy houses, overlooking Castle Square, are +fair representatives. + +Threading our way through a narrow thoroughfare, we presently catch a +glimpse of a quaint old structure, surmounted by a clock turret, or +belfry. This is the Butter Cross, a grey stone edifice built, perhaps, a +couple of centuries ago, and, without any great pretensions to +architectural taste, yet a pleasant object to look upon by reason of its +uneven, weather-stained surfaces, and rough irregular contours. Beneath +its old worn arches the country folk foregather of a market day; and it +is worth while to linger near on a Sunday morning to watch the Mayor's +procession, when, accompanied by the black robed mace-bearers, he +marches hence to attend service in the great collegiate church hard by, +as the time-honoured custom is. Let us follow his Worship's lead, then, +and take a look at St. Lawrence's church. + +For this purpose we turn through a short narrow passage-way, which goes +by the curious name of 'Scallens,' or Kalends; at the end whereof we +find ourselves before a large hexagonal south porch with angle +buttresses and embattled parapet, a feature seldom met with in our +English churches. + +St. Lawrence's church at Ludlow is undoubtedly one of the finest +throughout all broad Shropshire. Its ruddy sandstone walls, its serried +buttresses and graceful flamboyant windows, rise in charming contrast +above the sombre yew trees whose foliage enshrouds the quiet graveyard; +while, high overhead, the great central tower soars aloft into the blue, +with the jackdaws wheeling and circling around its topmost battlements, +or holding noisy conclave amidst the intricacies of its great traceried +windows. + +The interior of the church, too, displays that spacious dignity +characteristic of the Perpendicular style: the clerestoried nave, the +chancel with its grand painted windows, and the lofty open lantern +beneath the tower, combining to create an appearance of cathedral-like +magnificence. What with the rich, subdued glow of ancient glass, the +dark oak screens spanning chancel and transepts, and the slender pillars +and arches soaring far aloft, the general effect is extremely noble and +impressive. + +A magnificent canopied oak roodscreen divides the nave from the chancel, +which is flanked on either side by rows of stalls, used in bygone times +by the chantry priests of St. John of Jerusalem, their dark oaken +tracery contrasting beautifully with the old grey stonework around. The +miserere seats here are worth a close examination, being carved with +very quaint emblematical imagery; as, for example, the panel which +figures at the end of the present chapter. + +The great Perpendicular window, which occupies nearly the whole of the +east end of the chancel, is filled with ancient stained glass, +portraying, in the realistic style dear to the mediæval mind, scenes +from the Legend of St. Lawrence, the tutelary saint of the church. + +Some good old glass in the east window of the adjacent chapel of St. +John records the so-called Legend of the King. The treatment is curious +and original, as it often was in those days. Indeed, every window of +this chapel has some beauty of its own. + +But to return to the chancel. Beneath the great window, from wall to +wall, extends an elegant stone reredos, brought to light some years +since in the course of restorations. It is divided up into a series of +canopied and crocketed niches, containing small sculptured statues of +considerable beauty. Behind this screen is a remarkable little chamber +lighted by a single early pointed window, and supposed to have been used +either as the church-treasury, or for communicating with lepers, or +outcasts. + +In the south chancel wall there is a handsome sedilia of Perpendicular +date; and opposite to it a large, arched recess, where the Easter +Sepulchre was displayed in pre-Reformation days. + +The south or Lady-chapel has a fine Jesse window, besides other notable +features. The backs of the stalls, dividing this chapel from the +chancel, are painted in Old English lettering with 'The commandemente of +Almyghty God,' set up, by order of the royal commissioners, in the reign +of good Queen Bess. In olden times it was customary for the Cordwainers +and other honourable companies to hold their meetings in this chapel; as +did the Fletchers, or Arrowsmiths, in the north transept, the gable +whereof is still surmounted by their cognizance, an arrow. An unusually +fine flamboyant window is, unfortunately, hidden from the interior by +the large and very excellent organ that almost monopolizes this +transept. + +Though not so numerous as one might expect, there are several handsome +monuments in Ludlow church. The oldest of these is a much mutilated +table-tomb in the north aisle, reputed to be that of Arthur, Prince of +Wales, son of Henry VII., who died near Ludlow. On the top of this tomb +are piled, and doled out thence every Sunday morning, twelve goodly +quartern loaves for the benefit of as many poor widows. + +Under the before-mentioned arch of the Easter Sepulchre, upon a panelled +table-tomb, repose the effigies of an Elizabethan knight and his lady, +with the ensuing inscription: 'HEARE LYETH THE BODYES OF SYR ROBART +TOWNESHEND, KNIGHT, CHIEF JUSTES OF THE COUNSELL IN THE MARCHES OF +WALLES AND CHESTER, AND DAME ALICE HYS WYFF.' In the panels below appear +their 'VI. SONNES AND VI. DOUGHTERS, LAWFULLY BEGOT.' + +Over the way is a similar but plainer tomb, which, though now lacking +the 'Closet fayre in-wrought, where Lords may sit in stately solemn +wise,' that Churchyard the poet saw, displays still some handsome +hatchments, set into the wall above. 'HEARE LYETHE,' runs the legend, +'THE BODYE OF AMBROSIA SYDNEY, IIIITH DOUGHTER OF THE RIGHT HONORABLE +SYR HENRYE SYDNEY, KNIGHT OF THE MOSTE NOBLE ORDER OF THE GARTER, LORDE +PRESIDENT OF THE COUNSELL OF WALLES, ETC., AND OF THE LADYE MARYE, HYS +WYEF, DOUGHTE OF YE FFAMOUS DUKE OF NORTHUMBERLAND, WHO DYED IN LUDLOWE +CASTELL, YE 22ND OF FEBRUARI, 1574.' + +An adjacent monument to Edmund Walter and his lady, dated 1592, shews +traces of a degenerate style creeping in, Time with his hour-glass +appearing atop of the arch, with scrolls and pediments introduced by way +of enrichments. + +This sort of funereal gear, so much in vogue at a later period, is well +seen upon the eighteenth-century memorial to Theophilus Salwey, Esq., +with its chubby, smiling cherub, placidly seated upon an hour-glass, and +surrounded by skulls, bones, and such-like disjecta membra, a curious +conjunction! Salwey, with equal mind, declares himself by the +inscription, 'Pro Rege Sæpe, Pro Republica Semper.' + +The antiquary may discover much matter of this sort in the course of a +stroll through St. Lawrence's church; but, not to pursue the subject ad +nauseam, we will now sally forth into the town again, and continue our +peregrinations. Before leaving the church, however, let us glance at the +ancient font, a strange, archaic-looking stone vessel, large, plain and +bowl-shaped, and bearing traces of the days when it did duty as a +watering trough somewhere in the vicinity. + +Once more in the open air we turn towards the east end of the +churchyard, where the ancient abode known as the Reader's House raises +its old weatherbeaten gable beside the pathway; a delightful jumble of +rough stonework, carved beams and dim, diamond-paned windows. The low +portal, enclosing an ancient nail-studded door, is beautiful with rare +old Jacobean carving, and a row of plain brick dwellings alongside +contrast not unpleasingly with their venerable neighbour. + + * * * * * + +A terraced walk on the north side of the churchyard occupies the site of +the old town wall, and embraces a fair prospect over the surrounding +country, a goodly, fertile landscape, very pleasant to behold. In +ancient times, before the Normans built their church on the site of the +present edifice, a prehistoric tumulus occupied the western end of what +is now the graveyard. From this monticle the town is said to acquire +its name, the word Ludlow being derived from Leod-hlaw, the People's +Hill, shewing the place is at least as old as Saxon times. + +[Illustration: Palmers Guild, Ludlow.] + +Of the 'fayre House' of the Palmers' Guild 'at the west end of the +Paroche Churche-yard,' there are some scanty remains incorporated amidst +more modern buildings, now not easy to find, nor yet very imposing when +discovered. And as for the 'Hospitall or Almes-house of a 30 poore +Folke,' built by one Hosyer in the year of grace 1468, and noticed by +Leland, its place is now usurped by the gaunt red-brick edifice opposite +the west front of the church. + +We now retrace our steps to the Butter Cross, calling to mind old +Churchyard's lines on Ludlow: + + 'Who that lists to walk the Towne about + Shall find therein some rare and pleasant things.' + +Yonder before us lies Broad Street, a spacious, respectable-looking +thoroughfare still, if not as in Leland's time, 'the fayrest part of the +Towne;' with Butcher Row under the pillars to the left, the Angel Hotel +farther on, and the solitary survivor of Ludlow's seven town-gates +spanning the lower end of the street. + +So down Broad Street we now take our way, pausing beneath the grim old +archway to notice the grooves for the portcullis in its massive masonry. +Two semicircular towers, jutting boldly forth, protect the gateway upon +its outer side, and command the approach from Ludford Bridge. Sober, +antiquated tenements cling like parasites around the ancient gateway, +and the humble Wheat-Sheaf Inn thrusts out its bar-parlour window upon +the site of the old town moat. + +A bowshot farther we come to Ludford Bridge; and, as in Leland's day, +'there be three fayre arches in this bridge over Teme,' though the +'pretty chapel upon it of St. Catherine' is now no more. Huge sparlings, +wider than the bridge itself, afford tempting nooks wherein to linger +and gaze upon the clear tide swirling past the bold cutwaters below, +where house-leeks, ground-ivy and such-like wildlings, have made their +homes in the crannies of the stonework. + +The view hence is delightful, look which way we will; trees, rocks, +bustling rapids and deep, calm pools that reflect the sky, combining to +form a scene of rural harmony. A picturesque old flour-mill and some +dilapidated tanneries still cling to the bank hard by, though Peter +Undergod's ancient fulling-mill is now a thing of the past, having been +swept away in an unprecedented flood a dozen years ago. + +Beyond the bridge rise the church, the ancient manor-house and timbered +cottages of Ludford, a fascinating spot; but Ludford lies without our +province, in shire Hereford. So turning presently to the right-about, we +leave upon our dexter hand the site of an Hospital, founded by Peter +Undergod in King John's reign and dedicated to St. John Baptist, whereof +the name alone now survives. Then, passing through Broad Gate again, we +strike thence into a narrow lane running alongside the old town-wall. + +This brings us to Mill Street, near a row of humble stone tenements +wherein Mr. Oliver Baker discovered, some few years ago, traces of old +work dating back as far as the thirteenth century. These are supposed to +be the remains of Barnaby House, a guest-house where, in mediæval times, +pilgrims used to break their journey when travelling into Wales. + +Arrived in Mill Street, we make for the Grammar School, a long, low, +whitewashed building relieved by dormer windows, and retaining, in a +couple of two-light trefoil-headed windows and a wide arched doorway, +relics of antiquity. It is a place of very early foundation, having been +established by the Palmers' Guild in the thirteenth century, and +afterwards made over to the Ludlow Corporation with the stipulation that +they 'alwayes finde in ye same Towne, at their own charges, a free +Grammar schole, with a schoolmaster and an Hussher, for the erudicion of +youth in the Latine tonge.' Chartered by King Edward VI., the School, +one of the most ancient in the Kingdom, still continues its useful and +prosperous career. + +The Ludlow Natural History Society has a small but well arranged +Museum near the top of Mill Street, which is replete with objects of +interest to the antiquary and the naturalist. + +Here, in the district where they were originally brought to light, the +famous fossils of Siluria may be studied; while birds, fishes, and +shells of various kinds are well in evidence. Then there are the relics +of bygone Ludlow, a curious olla podrida; here a rusty iron-bound +deed-chest, there a quaint money-box with intricate lock; or something +'loathely and grim' in the way of torturing gear, such as the Branks +shewn in the sketch at the end of the foregoing chapter, a horrid engine +used for compressing the heads and branding the cheeks of malefactors. + +Upon the wall above the Museum door hang two big wooden balls, with a +rope's-end attached to each. These were used in olden times upon Shrove +Tuesday, when a kind of municipal tug-of-war took place. At either end +of a long rope (whereof we here see the remnants) the men of Broad and +Castle Wards confronted the champions of Corve Street and Old Street, +each party endeavouring to pull their opponents over to their side of +the town, until the end of the rope went into the Teme or the Corve, as +the tide of contest swayed. + +The Butter Cross is once again our rendezvous. Passing thence towards +the Bull Ring, we notice several fine old timber-framed houses, besides +others that hide their charms beneath a disfiguring mantle of whitewash. +Some of these ancient residences retain their handsome plaster ceilings, +and oaken staircases with massive newels and twisted balusters. + +[Illustration: The "Feathers" Hotel. Ludlow.] + +The Bull Ring itself, where our 'rude forefathers' enjoyed the +exhilarating sport of bull-baiting, is encumbered with some oldish +houses, not bad ones of their kind. But such attractions as they offer +are quite put into the shade by a beautiful half-timbered edifice which +rises but a stone's-throw away, so thitherward let us now direct our +steps. + +This is the Feathers Hotel, an ancient hostelry which, as may be +gathered from our sketch, is a magnificent example of mediæval domestic +architecture. Observe how the venerable house seems to 'stand at ease,' +as it were, in these days of its ripe old age; its tall beetling gables +and quaintly carved beams leaning this way or that, quite regardless of +perspective. With what picturesque effect its diamond-paned oriel +windows jut forth from beneath the deep-browed eaves, and the queer +carven monsters ogle the passer-by from bulging bracket and beam end; +and how charmingly the flowering creepers on the balcony relieve its +grim old timbers. + +Upon stepping within we notice the letters R.I. on the lock-plate of the +door; but whether this refers to King James I., or to Mr. Jones, the +traditional builder of the house, we leave others to decide. The same +letters reversed figure upon the beautiful carved oak chimney-piece in +the coffee-room, which, with its elaborate plaster ceiling, intricately +carved oak panelling, and low, lattice-paned windows, has quite a +mediæval appearance. Hard by is another fine wainscoted chamber, where +some visitor of bygone days has set his signet in the form of a family +hatchment, duly 'erased' and 'impaled,' in true heraldic fashion. + +In point of historic interest, the record of this fine old hostelry is +little better than a 'perfect and absolute blank.' But from the general +style of its architecture, and the presence of the royal arms in its +principal chamber, it has been conjectured that The Feathers was in some +way connected with the Courts of the Marches, which played such an +important part at Ludlow in mediæval days. + +Over the way stands The Bull, another oldfashioned hotel, with one of +those large, rambling inn-yards, familiar to travellers of a bygone +generation. Upstairs in the dining-room are preserved those 'armes in +colours, sitch as fewe can shewe,' which, as we have seen, once graced +the ancient castle chapel; and amongst them may be found the armorial +bearings of many a one who bore a name to conjure with in the brave days +of old. + +Thomas Lane, in the year 1674, established at Ludlow an alms-house for +aged and decayed women. Its habitat in Old Street is still known as +Lane's Asylum, a picturesque structure of timber and stone displaying +the half obliterated letters E.C. upon a gable-end, and a date that +looks like 1621. The house itself is evidently of great age, but has +nothing of interest within, save and except an old coat-of-arms in the +refectory, supported by the lion and winged griffin, and ensigned by a +royal crown and the initials E.R. + +Of the Whitefriars Monastery, that 'fayre and costly thinge' which +Leland noticed on the banks of Corve, scarce one stone has been left +upon another; or, to speak more precisely, one solitary arch stands +tottering to its fall. Being far gone into disrepair, the place was +pulled down about a century ago, and its materials carted away to build +pigstys and the like. + +In the same quarter is to be seen a group of ancient almshouses built by +one of the Foxes of Bromfield, whose coat-of-arms, with the date 1593, +appears upon the low grey stone façade fronting on the highway. + +Thus it will be seen that, hidden away amongst the nooks and corners of +Ludlow town, there are many relics of ancient domestic architecture, +such as lend a quaint, mediæval appearance to its older streets. The +surrounding country, too, is equally favoured, for it is full of the +charm of secluded, rural beauty; while rustic villages and smiling +homesteads are to be met with on every hand. + +So now let us bid farewell to the pavements, and, taking to the leafy +lanes, push forth again into the open country. + +[Illustration: A "Miserere" at Ludlow.] + + + + +THE CLEE HILLS, CORVE DALE, AND WENLOCK EDGE. + + +Away to the north-east, as we turn our backs upon Ludlow, appears a noble +range of hills, whereof we have caught frequent glimpses during our +peregrinations about the old town. And now, as we fare along through a +pleasant, pastoral country, the dark, volcanic-looking crest of +Titterstone Clee Hill looms grandly above the rolling woodlands that +clothe his lower flanks. + +'Cle Hills,' as Leland informs us, 'be holy in Shropshire. The highest +Parte of Cle Hills is cawlyd Tyderstone. In it is a fayre playne grene, +and a fountaine in it. There is another Hill a 3 Miles distant from it +cawlyd the Brown Cle.' + +Geologically these hills are somewhat remarkable. A cap of erupted +basalt crowns the summits of the Clees, having by its harder texture +protected the hills from the effects of denudation, and preserved from +destruction the underlying coal measures that now form the loftiest +coalfield in Britain. Hence it comes to pass that, in these utilitarian +days, the 'fayre playne grene and the fountaine' have given place to +coalpits, and to those yawning stone quarries that yield the famous road +metal locally known as 'Dhu stone.' + +Leaving the old timbered farmhouse of Dodmore upon our left, we descend +into a pleasant vale, cross the Ledwych brook and bear away for +Bitterley; following a narrow, unfrequented lane, with Titterstone +making a brave show in the direction whither we are bound. + +Set amidst green summer foliage, Bitterley village looks attractive +enough as we traverse its one quiet thoroughfare; but in winter-time, as +the name suggests, the district is bleak and chilly: + + 'Bitterley, Bitterley under the Clee, + Devil take me if I ever come to thee!' + +runs a rustic couplet that tells its own tale. + +[Illustration: The Haunted House, Bitterley.] + +At the farther end of the village we turn aside to examine an old, +ruinous pile, rising forlorn and derelict in the midst of an adjacent +meadow. Upon nearer acquaintance this proves to be an ancient, +dilapidated edifice, in the last stages of decay. With its time-stained +brick walls and crow-stepped gables smothered in untended ivy, the +mullioned windows agape to every gale, and roof and chimneys tottering +to their fall, the old place looks a haunted house, every inch of it, as +our sketch will shew. + +A solid oak newel staircase 'corkscrews' upwards in a projecting turret, +but, save a few remnants of elaborate stucco ornamentation above the +fireplace in one desolate chamber, there is little or nothing to repay +the risk of a broken neck. So, remarking certain traces of a moat in the +meadow hard by (restored by 'artist's license' in the sketch), we now +hie away through lanes and fields to Bitterley church. + +[Illustration: Cross at Bitterley.] + +Bitterley church and the old Court-house, with some noble trees in the +foreground and Titterstone towering behind, make a pleasing rural +picture as we draw near; and, upon passing through the wicket and +entering the green sanctuary, we come in sight of the beautiful +churchyard Cross shewn in the adjoining sketch. It dates from the +Decorated period, the slender shaft rising from a flight of worn, mossy +steps, and bearing aloft the four-sided head, or finial, in whose +crocketed niches some mouldering fragments of sculptured work may still +be discerned. This Cross is one of the finest of its kind in England. + +The church itself is of Norman origin, though much altered in later +times. The best features of the interior are a fine arcaded Norman font, +a curious old lectern and iron-bound muniment chest, and slight remains +of a traceried oak roodscreen. + +Beyond Bitterley church the country opens out towards the unenclosed +flanks of Titterstone Glee Hill: + + 'Those mountains of commande + The Clees, like loving twins, and Stitterstone that stande + Transevered,' + +--as the poet Drayton hath it. So, putting the best foot foremost, we +have a lung-expanding tramp for the next half-hour amidst heather and +waving brake-fern, winning our way at last to a fine view point dubbed +the Giant's Chair. The outlook hence on a fine summer's day is a thing +to be remembered. Wide and varied as is the prospect, the gem of it all, +perhaps, is the charming bird's-eye view of old Ludlow town, down in the +vale at our feet, its warm-grey towers and house-roofs nestling beneath +the verdant slopes of Whitcliff, which in their turn are overtopped by +the brindled heights of Bringwood Chase, stretching away towards the +blue Welsh hills where the horizon meets the sky. + +[Illustration: Crow Leasow.] + +Having spied out the land from this lofty eyrie, we plunge down again +through the breast-high bracken, and then, working our way by +cross-country lanes, come presently to Crow Leasow. + +Crow Leasow is a substantial brick farmhouse dating from the early days +of the seventeenth century. Its weatherbeaten front has some good +moulded brickwork about the doorway, eaves and gables, and a bulky +chimney-stack projects towards the northern end. The massive doors and +thick beams and rafters of the interior look quite in character; while a +gigantic oak tree, of enormous girth but hollow within, flings its vast +limbs athwart the greensward before the entrance way. + +In bygone days Crow Leasow belonged to a family of the name of +Shepheard, who lived here for five successive generations, and were +probably the builders of the existing house. + +At Middleton village we find vestiges of a yet more antiquated dwelling, +in the moated manor-place called the Brook House, whereof one +half-timbered gable still survives. From a map made in 1721, the mansion +would appear to have been in good preservation at that time, as the +sites of a summer-house, a large walled garden and a bowling-green, are +all marked upon it. + +Laying a course due west for Stanton Lacy, we have now to negociate some +intricate byways athwart Hayton's Bent, a stretch of shaggy upland +islanded, so to speak, in Corve Dale. Up through the woodlands we go, +getting a fleeting glimpse of Downton Hall, standing in a lonely +situation amidst a richly timbered park. Anon we strike into a secluded +dingle--one of those 'Hopes,' as they are called, so characteristic of a +Shropshire countryside, with a brooklet tinkling along through a tangle +of undergrowth; while the carol of thrush, linnet and blackbird sounds +blithely in our ears. + +Stanton Lacy itself is but a mile farther on; and through that quaint, +quiet village lies our way to the parish church. Stanton Lacy church is +a genuine Saxon edifice; indeed, it is considered to be one of the best +examples of pre-Norman work in this country. Upon its outer walls appear +the narrow buttresses built of long-and-short stones, and the rough, +uneven stonework with its wavy coursing, that mark the Saxon period. + +[Illustration: Stanton Lacy.] + +In the north nave wall is the remarkable doorway shewn in the +accompanying sketch. Here we find the long-and-short work both upon the +jambs and the semicircular head, which is surmounted by a peculiarly +shaped cross, and guttæ, or drops, like those found in classic +architecture. Though now blocked up, this doorway is still in a good +state of preservation. + +The church is cruciform in plan, its massive central tower grouping +prettily amidst a setting of verdant foliage, when viewed from the +south, with the porch standing prominently out, and some curious stone +effigies of the de Lacys under low, cusped, mural arches. + +Inside we find traces of various styles and dates, with scraps of +ornamentation here and there, such as the alternate shields and rosettes +upon the otherwise plain stone font, and the little carved figures that +look down from brackets on a beam of the chancel roof. + +A pretty legend tells how this church first came into existence. +Milburga, the pious daughter of King Penda the Mercian, fleeing one day +from the too pressing attentions of a certain Welsh princeling, managed +to escape across the Corve, near where the church now stands, before her +lover came up. Then the good lady vowed a vow that, if permitted to +escape, she would build a church as a thank-offering; whereupon a mighty +flood swept down the stream and effectually put a stop to all pursuit; +and so it came to pass that the first church arose hard by upon the +banks of Corve. + +So much, then, for Stanton Lacy church. In other ways, also, the place +seems in bygone times to have been of some importance, for Anderson +tells us that 'Stanton Lacy was free from hundredal subjection, and its +seigneural lords claimed to have a gallows, to hold pleas of bloodshed +and hue and cry, and an assize of ale.' + +Upon resuming the onward route we traverse a pleasant vale, the road +following up the course of the Corve, with low, wooded hills on either +hand, and the topmost crests of the Clees peering over their shoulders. +Beyond the fine old timbered farmhouse of Langley the valley broadens +out, and the good red soil of Corve Dale shews rich and ruddy where the +ploughshare has lately passed, and ripening crops by the wayside add a +zest to the general outlook. + +Anon we steer a due northerly course, with first a conspicuous Lombardy +poplar, and then a curious-looking church steeple, by way of +guide-marks. The village to which it belongs lies coyly aside from the +highway, necessitating a slight detour, and the crossing of a brawling +brook. + +Thus we come to Culmington, a bucolic-looking village with several good +cottages of stone, timber and thatch; and the church, whose spire we +have already observed, rising beside the meadows overlooking the Corve. +Thitherward, then, let us now direct our steps. + +Though somewhat plain, the old church has several good features, and its +curiously stunted broach spire is weathered and mildewed to a thousand +tints. The rough, plastered walls of the edifice are only relieved by a +few slender lancet windows, which are narrower and more sharply pointed +than is usual, while one of them looks like what is known as a leper, or +low-side, window. + +Very plain and simple too is the interior of the church, a dark oak +roodscreen alone breaking the monotony of the whitened wall surfaces. A +good Decorated canopy with ball-flower enrichment, an aumbry and +piscina, some old carved oak pews, and the quaint memorial to a +seventeenth-century Rector, are amongst the notabilia that come under +our observation. + +A hedgeside inn at the end of the village now comes handy for rest and +refreshment, both welcome enough to wayfarers who have borne the burden +and heat of the day. Then after a sociable smoke and a chat with mine +host anent 'the weather and the craps,' we proceed again upon our +travels through the byways of Corve Dale. + +The road next takes an upward grade, and, approaching the foothills of +Wenlock Edge, enters upon a rough, broken country, known in olden times +as Siefton Forest. + +Anon we quit the main road, and, turning down a narrow lane, presently +espy a large, handsome old stone-built mansion of the Tudor period, the +ancient manor-house of Elsich. The front towards the road appears to +have been considerably renovated, but the rearward aspect is much more +antiquated-looking, a projecting half-timbered stair turret, roofed with +thick stone slates, rising with charmingly picturesque effect above the +last remnants of the moat. + +Elsich was during many generations the home of the Baldwyns, who are +said to have first settled here in the reign of Richard II. The original +house was probably built about the year 1545 by Richard Baldwyn, whose +brother William was cupbearer to Queen Mary. Thomas Baldwyn, son of the +last named, was committed to the Tower on suspicion of being implicated +in a plot to liberate Mary Queen of Scots, and is said to have written +the following inscription on the wall while in prison there: THOS . +BAUDEWINE . JULIE . 1585 : AS . VIRTUE . MAKETH . LIFE . SO . SIN . +CAUSETH . DEATH. + +Striking across the fields, we now cut off a corner and look in upon +Corfton, where, beside a large tree-covered tumulus, we find a few +scanty, very scanty, traces of The Mount chapel, a little old stone +building of unknown antiquity, which, though now a mere featureless +shell, was still in use, they say, as a place of worship within living +memory. + +Another mile brings us to Delbury, or Diddlebury, to give the place its +full title. Traversing a footbridge where a stream crosses the roadway, +we make our way to the church, whose grey old stunted tower rises above +the hamlet. + +[Illustration: Delbury Church.] + +Dedicated to St. Peter, Delbury church is a fascinating spot to the +lover of old things, for the fabric bears the stamp of its first Saxon +builders, while other hands in later years have added variety of style +in pleasingly blended contrast. + +A large portion of the north wall, including the base of the tower, is +pure Saxon work, built herring-bone wise inside, and of nicely squared +masonry without. A blocked doorway shews the long-and-short +construction, while high up in the wall is seen a small, semi-headed +window, evidently as old as the wall itself. This window bears traces of +having had an internal shutter. + +The old western tower, as may be gathered from the sketch, is a curious +architectural jumble. Owing to superincumbent weight, the original arch +of the west doorway has assumed a squat, horseshoe form, and a later but +still ancient arch has been inserted beneath it. With its rough, +timeworn buttresses, and dilapidated string-courses fringed with moss +and splotched with lichens, this old tower looks exceedingly +picturesque, and forms a capital subject for a sketch. + +Many quaint bits of carved work, both in wood and stone, come to light +as we potter about the interior. In the chancel, upon a brass plate +under the arch of the Easter Sepulchre, appears an inscription which +runs as follows: M . S . CAROLUS . BALDWYN . DE . ELSICH : ARMIGER . HIC +. SITUS . EST : OBIJT . 140 . DIE . FEBRUARIJ . ANO . DNI . 1674 : ANNO +. ÆTATIS . SUÆ . 77. The Charles Baldwyn here referred to held Stokesay +Castle under a long lease from Lord Craven, and his son Samuel was in +command of the garrison there at the time of the Civil Wars. + +The north chapel here has been, from time immemorial, devoted to the use +of the Cornewall family, of Delbury Hall. + +Regaining the highroad we get a pretty rearward view of Delbury, the +tranquil hamlet with its low grey steeple nestling in a wooded vale, +while lofty hills rise away in the background. Thence we push on for +Munslow through an orchard country, where the landscape is brightened by +the flower-laden trees whose fragrance permeates the air. + +A mile short of our destination, the Swan Inn, with its half-timbered +gables, its worn stone steps and swinging sign, makes a comely show at +the crossways; and presently after we find ourselves at the Crown Hotel, +the old Hundred House of Stottesdon, on the outskirts of Munslow +village. At The Crown, then, we will outspan awhile, for, situated in +the very heart of Corve Dale, the house will suit us 'to a T' as a +starting-point while exploring that locality; the more so that, as a +rule, the Dale boasts little accommodation above the hedge-alehouse +character. + +Munslow is a rather scattered village, whose cottages seem to be playing +hide-and-seek with one another about a rough, out-cropping hill. As for +the church, the place seems at first sight not to possess such an +appendage, until, surmounting a steep rocky lane, we presently come upon +it down in a secluded nook, embosomed amidst apple orchards, with the +comfortable-looking parsonage house peeping out from a grove of trees. + +[Illustration: The Old Church Porch. Munslow.] + +Two or three dark yews and a curious wooden erection, apparently an old +lich-gate, lend an air of rusticity to the churchyard. The beautiful old +timbered porch shewn in our sketch is the most pleasing feature of the +exterior: but the window tracery is worthy of notice, being of +excellent though simple character, and original in treatment. The +interior of the church has been a good deal renovated, but in one of the +nave windows we notice a Virgin and Child in fourteenth-century glass, +and a foliated cross cut upon the sill below. + +Some later glass in the aisle windows is remarkable for its quaint +anagrams and inscriptions, and upon an old slab near by may be seen the +following queer effort at rhyme: + + AO 1602: + IN . TE . HOVVER . OF . HIS . POVVER . ONE . DEAD . + BY . CHRIST . DOE . RISE . + AND . VVEE . VVHOSE . BOANES . ROT . VNDER . STONES . + OVR . DVST . HEEL . NOT . DESPISE . + +Some of the original pews in the nave are of massive old moulded oak, +with geometrical patterns incised on their ends of earlier character +than is usually found in such cases. + +Down past the church, from the westward hills, comes a lane that in any +but the best of weather must be a mere mountain torrent, paved with the +naked rock and overarched by ancient yews. Our way, however, lies +through the fields, until, striking the Wenlock road, we diverge to the +right, cross the river Corve by a footbridge, and threading our way +through deep, sandy lanes, come presently to Tugford. This takes us past +Broncroft Castle, a modernized, castellated residence, seated in a +curiously out-of-the-way spot for such an imposing pile. + +[Illustration: Tugford Church.] + +With the ivy wreathing tower and porch, and moss and lichens encrusting +its old plastered walls, Tugford church looks thoroughly in keeping with +its secluded sylvan situation. Low down outside the chancel walls are +certain arched recesses of unknown origin. The small blocked doorway +seen in our sketch has a semicircular tympanum, carved in low relief, of +evident antiquity; and a Norman arch with excellent mouldings is found +inside the ivied porch. Internally, two curious, grotesque little +figures are perched aloft on either side of this door. + +Across the west end, hiding a good pointed tower arch, extends the +musicians' gallery, where, amidst dusty music scores and other disjecta +membra, the old wormeaten band-stand may still be seen. From this same +gallery might be heard, until comparatively lately, those mellifluous +strains of flute, clarionet, melodion and all sorts of music, wherewith +the 'rude forefathers of the hamlet' were wont to wake the slumbering +echoes on a Sunday morning; indeed the present rector himself can still +recall those 'piping' times. + +The very parish bier at Tugford boasts a respectable antiquity, as +witnesses the inscription 'Bartholomew Lutley, Anno Dom. 1617,' carved +upon it. + +From Tugford we climb by rambling footpaths to The Heath, a secluded, +upland district, forming a sort of western buttress to the Brown Clee +Hill. + +[Illustration: The Heath Chapel.] + +Emerging from a tangle of plantations, we traverse a few rough pasture +fields and soon come to the Heath Chapel, a small, ancient edifice, +standing all alone in a green meadow, with sheep browsing leisurely +around its grey stone walls. Simple and unobtrusive as it is, this lowly +chapel is extremely interesting to the antiquary, from the fact that it +has remained practically untouched since the Norman builders brought +their work to completion, seven hundred years ago. + +[Illustration: Interior of the Heath Chapel. Looking East.] + +The fabric consists of nave and chancel, and has a fine south doorway +enriched with nook-shafts and chevron mouldings; while the walls are +strengthened by the flat buttresses characteristic of that early period, +through two of which, curiously enough, the east and west windows have +been pierced. A plain string-course runs inside and out around both nave +and chancel. + +Inside, the old oaken box pews, grey with age, remain in situ, their +timeworn panels bearing touches of carved work and quaint iron hinges; +the walls retain their coating of faded, mildewy plaster; and the whole +wears an air of archaic simplicity, and immemorial repose. Upon the +rough stone-flagged floor stands a plain, bowl-shaped font, evidently +coeval with the building itself, while the beams of the open-timbered +roof look almost equally primitive. + +The chancel arch is quite unadorned, save for a little carving upon the +capitals. The altar table and rails around, though plain, are not bad +specimens of their kind, and inside the western gable is suspended the +solitary bell. + +As may be readily understood, the congregation here is at the best of +times but a scanty one; indeed, it is said that in bygone days the +parson, perceiving but 'two or three gathered together,' would sometimes +adjourn the service to the snug fireside of a neighbourly farmer's +kitchen! The wonder, indeed, is that a church should ever have been +erected in such a sparsely-peopled, out-of-the-way locality. + +Well, let us now bid farewell to the Heath Chapel, not omitting to +notice the old Gothic hinges upon its oaken door, now alas! bereft of +that famous key which, if tales be true, was so fearfully and +wonderfully constructed that the clerk alone could prevail upon it to +'open sesame!' + +The day proving fine and clear lures us onwards towards Brown Clee Hill, +whose broad, bulky mass looms prominently, no great distance away to the +eastward. In about a mile and 'a bittock,' after passing through a gate, +we enter upon a wild, go-as-you-please sort of country, and clamber up +the steep grassy vallum of Nordy Bank, a large Roman encampment in an +unusually good state of preservation. The bank is very high and steep, +with a ditch on its outer side, though much lower, as the custom was, +upon its inner face. + +Hence a fine, wild glen comes into view, running up into the heart of +the hills, Titterstone rears his dark craggy crest away to the right, +and the Wrekin peeps over the shoulder of Brown Clee Hill, towards which +we now bend our steps. + +Dropping to a sandy ford across a stream, we slant gradually away +athwart the open furze-clad hillside, and then breast the rough, steep, +rock-strewn bank, called Abdon Burf, which encircles the loftier of the +twin summits of Brown Clee Hill. + +Perched up here beside the cairn, 1,792 feet above sea level, we look +down upon every other height in all broad Shropshire; indeed, to find a +rival to Brown Clee Hill, we should have to travel across the Welsh +border. So let us now turn our attention to the spacious landscape which +lies outspread around; a prospect that embraces the greater part of +west-central England, and a good cantle of wild Wales to boot. + +Away towards the south-east rise the graceful peaks of the Malvern +Hills, with the Cotswolds far beyond them. Then to the left are seen the +Clent and Lickey heights, and the dingy pall of smoke overhanging the +Black Country. Glancing athwart a number of inferior eminences, the eye +is arrested by the great rounded dome of the Wrekin, unmistakable in its +lonely isolation. League upon league extends the broad plain called Yale +Royal, stretching far away into Cheshire, and blurred with a filmy cloud +indicating the whereabouts of Shrewsbury: + + 'Far set in fields and woods the town we see + Spring gallant from the shadows of her smoke.' + +The Berwyns come next, a pale grey stripe silhouetted upon the skyline, +followed by the sharp-peaked Breidden Hills, on the farthest confines of +Shropshire. Quite near neighbours by comparison seem the Stretton +heights, Caer Caradoc, and the spiny Stiperstones; while over those +rolling uplands we can faintly discern the topmost crests of Cader +Idris, in Wales. + +Corve Dale, a chequer-work of ruddy plough lands and varied greensward, +lies like a map at our feet, with the rough holts of Wenlock Edge +fringing its farther side. Radnor Forest and the Black Mountains extend +athwart the south-west, with perhaps a peep of the Brecon Beacons, mere +shadows of a shadow these, upon the remotest horizon. + +Yonder away lies Ludlow, marked by its tall church tower; and, still +following along the skyline, we descry the abrupt form of the Skyrrid +near Abergavenny. Finally our neighbour Titterstone Clee thrusts his +rugged cone aloft; a fine, dark, basaltic crag, around whose crest the +cloud shadows love to linger; fitting throne for the giant who, in days +of old, haunted those lonely heights. + +And overarching all this fair landscape spread the 'infinite shining +heavens,' and the glorious architecture of the clouds; completing a +picture worthy to be stored up in memory's garners for many a day to +come. + +From the carnedd we make a bee-line down through broad reaches of +heather, gorse, and wine-red bilberry shoots, flushing now and then a +hawk or a curlew as we tramp along. Hugging the course of a lusty +stream, we soon find ourselves once more at Tugford; whence by lanes and +field paths we work our way back to Munslow, crossing the Corve at Beam +Bridge, where the blacksmith plies his trade in a curious, nondescript +structure, half smothered in ivy, built, it is said, as a memorial to +some member of the More family who was slain upon foreign soil long, +long ago. + + * * * * * + +In a retired nook of the hills, about a mile and a half, as the crow +flies, from Munslow, lies the old farmhouse of Upper Millichope. + +[Illustration: UPPER MILLICHOPE.] + +The house is considered by connoisseurs to have been built in the +twelfth century, and thus may claim to be the most ancient abode in +Shropshire; in point of age, indeed, it probably has few rivals +throughout the whole of England. + +The oldest, or western, wing of the building, is massively constructed +of the grey limestone of the district, its walls being in places at +least 6 feet thick, while the steep roof is covered with old moss-clad +stone-slates. The original entrance was through the semicircular-headed +doorway seen in our sketch, the arch whereof is enriched with hallflower +ornament, as is that of a small round window of similar character +alongside. The other windows in the lower story are very narrow, mere +ceilets, or loops such as were used for archery, but are widely splayed +within. + +Access to the upper regions was obtained by a stone staircase built in +the thickness of the wall. This staircase, though now partially +destroyed, bears traces of having been protected by no less than three +doors between the basement and the room above. + +Owing to the reduced thickness of the west wall, the chamber on the +first floor is larger than the room below. It is lighted by a pair of +double windows in the northern and eastern sides, each window having an +attached pillar with moulded cap and base, a projecting socket for +inserting a beam across the window, and a stone seat, or bench, in the +wall upon either side. + +This first-floor room was probably the living-room, or Solar, of the +establishment. A small adjacent chamber is supposed to have been used as +a chapel, or oratory. In the roof are one or two rickety, dust-laden +garrets, long since deserted and given over to mice, spiders, and +such-like small deer. + +Huge oaken beams support the floor of the Solar, and the internal walls +are constructed of wattle-and-dab, now much fallen to decay. + +By a 'perambulation,' ratified in 1301, Edward I. declared Upper and +Little Millichope disafforested, in common with other places in the same +neighbourhood. In those days all this part of the country was a vast +tract of woodland, known as the Long Forest; and Millichope was +doubtless at that time the manor house, or hunting lodge, of the King's +Wood-ward, or Forest-ranger. + +Even now the scenery about Wenlock Edge is wild and romantic; but in +early times its thickly timbered dales afforded harbourage to robbers +and outlaws, who, issuing from the tangled thickets, preyed upon passing +travellers as they wandered through its devious, unfrequented trackways. +Nor was it until the reign of Henry I. that a good road was made along +the Edge, in place of the 'hollow way full of great, sharpe stones, and +so narrow as scarcely to admit of two horsemen abreast,' which had +formerly existed. + +[Illustration: Rushbury.] + +But to resume. From Millichope we may extend our ramble to Rushbury, a +pretty village situated in Ape Dale, under the western slope of Wenlock +Edge. + +Though nowadays so insignificant a place, Rushbury has some claim to be +of ancient origin, for it appears probable that the station named +Bravinium, on the Roman road from Magna to Wroxeter, stood here, or +hereabouts; and it is worthy of note that a hill above the village is to +this day called Roman's Banks. + +Rushbury church, too, bears traces of high antiquity, some +'herring-bone' work being visible upon the outer walls; while a noble +hammer-beam roof, very massively constructed and black with age, lends +distinction to the interior, and there are some good oak choir stalls +and bench ends, with 'poppy-head' terminations. + +Retracing our steps to Corve Dale, we travel on by meadow paths in the +direction of Holgate village, whose grey church tower, surrounded by +trees, is seen upon a distant hill-top, a landmark to every wayfarer who +journeys along the Dale. Wild saffron appears to be the bane of the +pasture fields in this locality; but for us they are decked in the +purple and gold of orchids and burnished king-cups, affording a charming +scheme of colour. + +[Illustration: Northern Doorway. Holgate Church.] + +Holgate church is small, and has recently undergone a 'thorough +restoration.' It boasts, however, a grand Norman south doorway, enriched +by a triple series of arches displaying the boldly carved sculpture +peculiar to that period. The font is evidently very ancient, the +interlaced ornamentation around the bowl having a Celtic look, while the +corners of the base are ornamented with rudely sculptured monsters. + +A grove of trees near the eastern end of the churchyard hides a lofty, +moated mound; and just beyond that, incorporated with some farm +buildings, is a large, circular stone tower, built of good ashlar +masonry, and pierced with narrow loopholes of the regulation mediæval +type. + +This is the only surviving fragment of Holgate castle, founded by Helgot +the Norman in William the Conqueror's time. King Henry I., in 1109, +honoured Herbert FitzHolgate with a visit; and six years later Richard +de Belesme, Lord of Bridgnorth, held his court within these walls. +Robert de la Mere, a subsequent owner, died while returning from the +Wars of the Crusades. + +In the year 1222, one Thomas Mauduit obtained license for a weekly +market at Holgate; while the Baron of those days had his own court and +private gallows here! + +About the middle of the thirteenth century Holgate was alienated to +Richard Plantagenet, styled the 'King of the Romans,' by whom it was +conveyed to the Knights Templars. Not long afterwards the castle and +demesne passed into the possession of Robert Burnell, Bishop of Bath and +Wells, and sometime Chancellor of England. + +In Leland's 'Itinerary' we read that 'Holgate castle standeth under Cle +Hilles, hard by Corve Dale, a 6 miles from Ludlowe'; a sufficiently +vague computation, about on a par with others that passed muster in +those easy-going times. Holgate castle appears to have fallen into +disrepair at an early date, being found utterly dilapidated in 1645. + +We now press on to Shipton, not failing to notice the fine Early English +hinges upon its south door, as we rest in the porch at Stanton Long +church. Approaching Shipton village, the old Hall of the Myttons comes +in sight backed by green, wooded heights, making a delightful picture. + +[Illustration: Shipton Hall. Shropshire.] + +As was frequently the case at that period, Shipton Hall follows the plan +of the letter E, and is a very dignified example of the builder's art as +practised in Good Queen Bess's reign. Between the broad, gabled wings +rises a slender stone tower; mullioned windows give back the glitter of +the noonday sun, and tall, curiously twisted brick chimneys soar above +the roof-tree. + +A quaint, oldfashioned garden forms a suitable setting to the mansion, +whose silver-grey stone walls and ivied gables rise with charming effect +above the flowering plants and creepers that adorn the balustrades in +front. Close at hand is an old stone pigeon-cot, covered with a conical +roof of thick, mossy stone tiles. + +This lordly dwelling was for many generations the ancestral home of the +Myttons; having been devised by John Lutwyche to his cousin, Edward +Mytton, of Worcester, in the year 1549, previous to which the Manor of +Shipton had appertained to Wenlock Priory. The place does not appear to +have figured much in local history, but was a veritable treasure-house +of heirlooms and antiquities. Times have changed, however, and the tap +of the auctioneer's hammer has dispersed these household gods to the +four winds. + +As befits an abode of 'the quality,' Shipton Hall stands a little apart +from the village, with the diminutive parish church nestling under its +lee. Thitherward, then, let us now direct our steps. + +Shipton church is a building of various dates, and so far has remained +untouched by restoration. At its western end rises a weather-boarded +bell-turret, while a coating of roughcast of a bright salmon-red tint +lends an air of cheerful distinction to the exterior. + +A plain Norman chancel arch, having a small arched aperture on each +side, gives access to the chancel itself, built, as is recorded in Old +English characters on a brass plate let into the wall, in the time of +Queen Elizabeth: THIS . CHAUNCELL . WAS . REEDIFIED . AND . BUILDED . OF +. NEWE . AT . THE . CHARDGES . OF . IOHN . LUTWICH . OF . LUTWICHE . IN +. THE . XXXJ . YEARE . OF . THE . GRACIOUS . REIGNE . OF . QUEENE . +ELIZABETH . 1589. The name of Mytton figures upon most of the monumental +tablets on these walls. Some scraps of old painted glass may still be +discovered in the window above the altar. + +A by-lane, running up beside Shipton Hall, brings us in about a mile to +Wilderhope, a great, stone-built manor-house of the Tudor period, +standing in a secluded spot amidst the woods and pastures of Hope Dale. + +Here in days of yore lived a family of the name of Smallman, a race that +flourished in this locality during the sixteenth and seventeenth +centuries, Major Thomas of that ilk being the hero in a certain episode +in connection with a spot called the 'Major's Leap,' whereof more anon. + +A spacious stone porch gives access to a large room now used as the farm +kitchen, whose ceiling retains some elaborate plaster enrichments, the +Tudor rose, portcullis, fleur-de-lys, etc., the letters I . E . S . U on +a heart, and certain half-obliterated words, MAL . MEA . DEA . EST, thus +they appear to run. Repeated here and there are seen the initials of +Francis and Ellen Smallman, who about the year 1601 erected the existing +mansion; and a small wainscoted chamber has T . S . 1, 1672, cut above +its fireplace. + +We now hark back to Shipton: noticing a curious sort of grotto, or +cavity in the limestone rock, as we pass through the village. Then +Corfield is left behind, a place that gives its name to an old +Shropshire family; and we get a peep at Larden Hall, an ancient seat of +the Mores, pleasantly situated in a well-timbered park under Wenlock +Edge. + +At Brocton the Feathers Inn affords opportune rest and refreshment; so, +after a spell of dolce far niente, we presently strike across country to +Great Oxenbold, where in bygone times the Priors of Wenlock had a +grange, or residence. + +All that remains of the old place is now incorporated with a farmhouse; +but the lancet windows of the chapel and the corbel-table above can be +detected outside, while a piscina and aumbry, and the brackets that +supported the chapel roof, are visible within; besides traces of a +circular stone stairway leading down to the cellars, whose ceiling is +ribbed with sturdy oaken beams. Evidences, too, are not wanting that a +moat formerly surrounded the whole. + +Beneath overarching groves and moss-clad rocks lies our way from Brocton +to Easthope; ferns and wildflowers decking the laneside, and rustic +children lingering to gather posies, only to throw them aside, as +children will, when some new fancy takes them. + +Before entering the village, Easthope church is seen, standing in a +quiet nook a little aside from the roadway; a small, plain, roughcast +structure, of thirteenth century date. From its southern side projects +an old stone porch, and a timber bell-cot rises atop of the western +gable, all very rustic and simple, and quite innocent as yet of +restoration. Upon the porch door still hangs the 'sanctuary' ring; and +the interior of the church (which is dedicated to St. Peter) has a very +reposeful, old-world air about it, as though time stood still, year in, +year out, within these hallowed walls. + +The stiff, high-backed pews have a little carved work upon them, with +the following inscription: EDWARD . BALL . OF . LONDON . GAVE . THIS . +PULPIT . & . PEWES . TO . THIS . PARISHE . WHEARE . HE . WAS . BORNE . +IUNE . 28 . ANNO . DOMINI . 1623. + +[Illustration: Hour-Glass at Easthope Church.] + +Yonder is the old carved oak pulpit; and upon it hangs the ancient +hour-glass, a relic of bygone days. As shewn in our sketch, the +hour-glass is enclosed in a sort of cage, or basket, of wrought and +twisted iron, from which projects a banner-like sheet of metal +ornamented with nicely fashioned fleurs-de-lys, a heart, and the letters +S, S, and surmounted by the figures 1662, indicating the year it was +made. Hour-glasses were much in vogue amongst the Covenanters; but +although one sometimes meets with the cage, or holder, in country +churches, it is rare to find the glass itself in situ as we see it here. + +A plain, massive oak roodscreen spans the church, which, besides other +antiquated features, has a 'leper' window with fifteenth-century hinge, +a bowl-shaped font, and two good Queen Anne chairs in the chancel. + +A short mile out of the village stands Lutwyche Hall, the beautiful seat +of the Bensons, charmingly situated in an umbrageous nook of the Edge, +and surrounded by terraced gardens set about with noble forest trees. +Though considerably modernized, the mansion is of ancient origin, as is +attested by the date 1587 inscribed upon its front; and there is a rare +old plaster ceiling in the entrance hall. + +The early British camp on a neighbouring hill was probably an outwork, +linking up Caer Caradoc with Nordy Bank. + +Setting our faces toward Wenlock, we now follow a high-lying ridgeway +road commanding fine views in the direction of the west. Anon we strike +into one of the numerous footpaths that zigzag down through the woods, +and make for a sort of cave, or rather cranny, high up in the limestone +rocks of the Edge, amidst tumbled boulders and brushwood. + +This is Ippikin's Rock, the haunt of a robber knight of that ilk, whose +deeds were famous in days of yore throughout all this countryside. Here, +as the story goes, Ippikin was wont to foregather with his merry men +all; issuing forth and levying blackmail on passing travellers, and +hiding the stolen treasure in these rocky fastnesses, where the print of +the knight's gold chain, it is said, may still be seen. Strange lights, +twinkling like Will-o'-the-wisps at dead of night, struck terror into +the hearts of the country folk as they gazed in fear and trembling from +the rustic homestall, while Ippikin and his crew held high revelry in +their unapproachable eyrie. + +Eventually Ippikin himself was slain, and his band dispersed, so that +they troubled the King's peace no more. But if tales be true his ghost +still 'revisits the glimpses of the moon,' and may be summoned from the +vasty deep by anyone who cares to stand atop of the cliff at midnight, +and cry three times: + + 'Ippikin! Ippikin! + Keep away with your long chin!' + +Footing it merrily along the white ridgeway road, we traverse the +watershed of the infant Corve, which babbles away hence towards a place +called Bourton. A large old manor-house with a square stone columbarium +is the most noticeable object at Bourton; unless, indeed, we except the +parish church, a nondescript edifice encompassed by yew trees, +overlooking the village upon the north. + +Presthope with its limestone quarries is left behind; and then, turning +aside near a solitary toll-house, we soon come to a flat-topped rock on +the crest of the Edge, known as the 'Major's Leap.' Tradition tells +that, in the days of the Civil Wars, Major Smallman of Wilderhope was +endeavouring to escape from a troop of Roundheads, when, finding himself +hard pressed as he rode along Wenlock Edge, he took a desperate leap +from the top of this rock down into the woods below. As luck would have +it, a crab-tree broke his fall, though his horse was killed on the spot; +and, under cover of the rocks and brushwood that abound hereabouts, the +Major made good his escape to his own home at Wilderhope. + +Thenceforward, save the goodly outlook upon our left, there is little +worthy of note until we draw near to Much Wenlock; and we seek in vain +for a certain country inn which greeted the wayfarer in this wise: + + 'Now Robin Hood is dead and Gone, + Step in and drink with Little John.' + +Descending from the uplands, our footsteps echo through the quiet +streets of Much Wenlock as we trudge on to our journey's end, while the +arrowy swifts are screaming around St. Milburga's tall church-steeple, +and the waning daylight flickers slowly away beyond the hills on the +western horizon. + +[Illustration: Hinge of Stanton Long.] + + + + +WENLOCK, WROXETER, AND THE WREKIN. + + +Seated in a basin-shaped valley, the town of Much Wenlock lies high on +the hills, a statement which smacks somewhat of paradox, though the +explanation is not far to seek. The fact of the matter is, the place +occupies one of those upland vales, locally termed Hopes, so frequently +found in this part of Shropshire. + +Much Wenlock is a town of very ancient origin, its earliest history +centring around the venerable Priory founded by St. Milburga, daughter +of Merewald, King of Mercia, towards the close of the seventh century. + +Its municipal history, too, dates far away back into the past. Before +Henry the Third's time Wenlock already held its weekly market, and in +1468 Edward IV. granted the first charter of incorporation, so that Much +Wenlock can justly claim to be one of the most ancient boroughs in the +realm. And there is a story, though we know not if it be true, that the +very first member who ever entered Parliament was the Member for the +Borough of Much Wenlock! + +So let us now take a look at the old town, in the centre whereof rises +the ancient Guildhall, 'buildid,' as an old record has it, 'over ye +Prisonne.' Supported upon massive oak pillars, the upper story consists +of timber and plaster, with gables and mullioned windows projecting at +intervals, and a deep tiled roof over all. Upon one of these oak pillars +you may still see the iron staples of the whipping-post, and under the +arches hard by stand the old parish stocks. + +Upstairs we find the Court of Assize; the Bench surmounted by the Royal +Arms, tempore 1589, and the Sword of Justice. Adjacent is the Council +Chamber, a sombre apartment panelled with dark old oak, whose +open-timbered roof bears the appropriate legend, JUDICIUM . VERUM . +JUDICATE : ET MISERICORDIAM FACITE. + +Close at hand rises the parish church, dedicated to St. Milburga, a +spacious edifice whose western tower is surmounted by a tall spire, a +rather unusual feature in this locality. A fine Norman west doorway, +masked by the tower built against it, is only one amongst several good +features to be seen here. In the old parish register we find the +following interesting record: 'Note that upon the 26 daye of June was +service celebrated first in the Englysh tonge, anno primo Elizabethæ, +1559.' + +Upon leaving the church we round a corner beside a queer old timbered +cottage, and, passing the site of the Bull Ring, come full in view of +the tall grey gables of St. Milburga's ruined Priory; while a grim old +stone watch tower, now off duty, is seen rising amidst a children's +playground. + +Wenlock Priory arose from very modest beginnings. Originally a nunnery +stood here, presided over by the gracious Saint Milburga, Wenlock's good +genius. + +Three centuries later--just about a thousand years ago--the Danes +overran all this part of Britain, which probably accounts for an ominous +blank in the local records about that time. + +Earl Leofric, husband of the famous Lady Godiva, rebuilt the ruined +church in the days of Edward the Confessor; but the place fell once more +to decay, until, as William of Malmesbury relates, Roger de Montgomery +took the matter in hand, and, about the year 1071, erected the nucleus +of the present edifice. + +Of Earl Roger's handiwork, except perhaps the ruined Chapter-house, +scarce one stone remains upon another; the slender pillars and pointed +arches of the main fabric dating from about the beginning of Henry the +Third's reign. The west front is much in ruins, but such features as +remain, indicate that it was built during the Early English period. + +[Illustration: The Chapter-House & Prior's Lodging. Much-Wenlock.] + +Entering by the dilapidated west doorway, we see around us, springing +from the clover-scented grass, tall fragments of grey stone walls, +blotched with weatherstains, and tufted with ivy, gillyflowers and +creepers; while flocks of pigeons flit from point to point, or nestle in +the crannies of the masonry. These massive, lofty fragments convey, by +their very isolation, a striking impression of the size of the minster, +which must have been of cathedral-like proportions, and unsurpassed in +the beauty and richness of its architecture. + +Indeed, the more closely we examine these beautiful and enduring +structures, the greater grows our admiration for the cunning +craftsmanship of those old monkish builders: + + 'Firm was their faith, the ancient bands, + The wise of heart in wood and stone. + Who reared with stern and trusty hands + These dark grey towers of days unknown. + They filled these aisles with many a thought, + They bade each nook some truth reveal: + The pillared arch its legend brought, + A doctrine came with roof and wall.' + +Passing through a corner of the south aisle, now the only portion of the +church not open to the sky, we enter upon a beautiful sunny courtyard, +around whose velvety turf arise the grey, crumbling relics of the Priory +buildings. + +Yonder upon the greensward appears the Lavabo, or washing-place of the +monks; a circular stone structure, richly carved with subjects from +Scriptural history. Beyond it rises the Refectory, an important element +in a community which entertained on so lavish a scale; and farther to +the left is seen the picturesque group of buildings that figure in the +adjoining sketch. + +That long, low edifice, with its quaint, trefoil-headed windows, deep +roof and half-timbered turret, is the Prior's Lodging of bygone days; +most interesting in that its internal economy remains much as in +mediæval times, though cleverly adapted to the needs of the nineteenth +century. + +Through those round Norman arches, with their characteristic +ornamentation and damaged effigy of St. Peter, we get a glimpse of the +ancient Chapter House, roofless now, it is true, but otherwise in +tolerable preservation. The walls of this fine apartment are broken up +into arcades of interlacing tracery, each tier of semicircular arches +being superposed upon the one below, giving all the effect of an arcade +of pointed arches. The work on the southern wall is profusely enriched +with carving, that on the opposite side being plainer, as though it had +never been completed. + +[Illustration: Much-Wenlock.] + +There is much else to be seen, for, wander where one will about the +tranquil enclave, some new beauty is ever revealing itself to the +discerning eye; while the sweet, reposeful landscape enfolds the old +ruins with its mantle of midsummer verdure. One pictures to one's self +this rich and sumptuous monastery in the zenith of its fame and +influence, the great Priory church with its crypt and chapter-house, its +library, scriptorium, and picturesque Prior's Lodging. One seems to see +the sober-liveried brethren plying their peaceful toil in cloister, +garden and field, or attending to the crowd of strangers that daily +throngs their gates; for whose benefit refectory and kitchen, vivaries, +columbarium and well-stocked cellars, yield each and all their tale of +good cheer to make glad the heart of man. Then, as nightfall draws on, +the long dormitories fill up with way-worn travellers and pilgrims; +while those in need of the leech's skill make their way to the hospital +hard by. + +There are several good timbered houses dotted about the town, notably +the one seen upon the left in the annexed view. This formed part of +Ashfield Hall, an old abode of the Lawleys, which gave shelter to King +Charles after the Battle of Worcester. The house afterwards became the +Blue Bridge Inn, and has finally degenerated to a common lodging-house. + +In the High Street we notice an old chequered front, relieved by an open +balcony, and inscribed: IOHN . AND . MARY . RAYNALDS . 1682. A still +older tenement in Shineton Street is said to have been the original +gaol-house of Wenlock; though its ancient Gothic doorway and traceried +window have anything but a dungeon-like appearance. + +Some pleasant spots lie within a measurable distance of Wenlock. +Quitting the town by the Broseley road, we glance up at the admirable +little wrought-iron sign of the Raven Inn, as we proceed to Barrow. Our +way lies past an ancient stone grange, now used as a stable and +store-house; and a cottage farther on offers refreshment to the thirsty +traveller in the form of 'lemon aid and jingre bier!' + +Then Barrow comes in view atop of a gentle rise, its old church tower +peering over the straw ricks of a barton; while far away beyond the dark +rolling woodlands of Willey Park spreads a rich, champaign country, +bounded by pale Midland hills. + +Despite its small size, Barrow church proves interesting, having +considerable remains of Saxon work both in the chancel and under the +tower. This tower is a queer, bulky structure, rising in four +diminishing stages, hoary and weedgrown, at the west end of the church; +and a rather curious south porch and sundial keep it in countenance. + +Out in the churchyard, beneath a flat stone slab, rests all that was +mortal of Tom Moody, the famous Whipper-in, who, when his hunting days +were ended, was 'run to earth' at this spot in the year of grace 1796. A +century ago, Tom Moody's was a name to conjure with in all this +countryside; and tradition tells how his sporting comrades, determined +to be 'in at the death,' gathered at the graveside to give their old +friend a parting 'view-halloo!' + +[Illustration: An Old Inn-Stick at Broseley] + +Past a group of seventeenth-century Almshouses we travel on to Broseley, +home of the Broseley Clays, beloved of fireside smokers. The town, with +its mean brick dwellings, has a decayed look about it; but in one of the +streets, outside a public-house, we chance upon a rare example of local +wrought-iron work, which is illustrated above. + +'Fight to the left at the cross-roads, and then you canna miss the way,' +remarks a passer-by of whom we now enquire the route to Benthall. Dumpy, +pot-bellied pottery kilns, bowered in flowering hawthorn, rise by the +roadside, where the brilliant blue Borage is abloom in untended corners. + +A fine avenue of forest trees leads us to Benthall Hall, a stately +freestone mansion of the sixteenth century, its mullioned windows and +projecting porch making a goodly show in the landscape. Close at hand, +its only neighbour, appears the parish church, a curious little +whitewashed edifice, destroyed and rebuilt at the time of the Great +Rebellion, when Benthall was held for the King. Its internal economy is +a survival of the churchwarden period, down to the stiff, penitential +box-pews, and the faded red curtains in the southward windows. + +In olden times an extensive tract of woodland, called the Royal Hay, or +Forest, of Shirlot, covered the rough broken country lying to the south +of Broseley. + +About the centre of this district lies Willey Park, the ancient demesne +of the Foresters; an estate which has never, it is said, been bartered +for filthy lucre since first it was granted by Henry II. to the Keeper +of the Royal Forest. + +The Foresters of bygone days seem to have been a free, open-handed race, +and keen sportsmen to boot. Tom Moody himself made his name famous +amongst the fox-hunting squires and parsons, who rode to hounds in the +train of my Lord Forester. + +Willey Hall, a solid, substantial stone edifice, stands atop of a gentle +rise, overlooking a chain of lake-like pools embosomed amidst shadowy +woodlands. Half a mile east, in a nook of the park, lies Willey church: +near to which we notice a natural curiosity, an oak and an ash tree +enjoying life on the co-operative principle by sharing a single stem +between them. + +Thenceforward our way lies through a reach of old forest land, full of +gnarled timber trees and carpeted with ferns--remains of Shirlot Forest. +In the heart of these woodlands we come upon a tall, ruinous stone +obelisk, known as the Shirlot Monument; whence, after traversing the +gorse-clad uplands of Shirlot Common, we return in due course to Much +Wenlock. + + * * * * * + +Road and rail keep fast company through Farley Dingle, the deep, +picturesque defile, by which one descends from Much Wenlock to the vale +of Severn. A brawling stream, as it winds adown the dingle, has been +ponded in and set to drive some rustic mills upon its banks. + +About half-way down we come to a place called Lawley's, _i.e._ Lawless, +Cross; recalling the wild times when outlaws took advantage of the fact +that this spot, being on the debatable line between the franchises of +Wenlock and Buildwas, formed a sort of No-man's-land, where the arm of +the law scarce reached. + +Emerging from the hanging woods of Farley Dingle, a broad, fertile +valley opens out before us, with the Severn rolling along through rich +pasture meads, and the ivy-clad ruins of Buildwas Abbey seated beside +its banks. So first for a bit of derivation. 'Build' suggests bieldy, or +bield, the Scottish equivalent for sheltered, comfortable; and 'was' is +a termination associated with a low, waterside situation, as for example +Sugwas, near the river Wye, in Herefordshire. + +[Illustration: Buildwas Abbey.] + +After the manner of their cloth, those old Cistercian monks, who erected +Buildwas Abbey, seem to have had an eye to the picturesque in locating +their noble foundation. Rising amidst green, folding meadows, on the +right bank of the Severn, the ruined Abbey forms the central feature in +a beautiful, tranquil scene; and, set amidst rich, dark foliage, with +the river rolling by, and cattle standing knee-deep in the shallows, has +exercised the brush of many a landscape artist. + +Founded by Roger de Clinton, Bishop of Chester, early in King Stephen's +reign, Buildwas Abbey is built in a plain, severe style, offering a +striking contrast to its more elegant rival at Much Wenlock. It was the +home of a wealthy community, owning, it is said, no fewer than nine +granges in Shropshire alone. A beautiful cope, worked by the hands of +Fair Rosamund, the Lady of Clifford Castle, was amongst the most valued +chattels appertaining to Buildwas Abbey. + +The arrangement of the several buildings is simple enough. East and west +extends the great monastic church, fairly intact still, though minus its +roof; a cruciform edifice with substantial circular pillars, slightly +pointed Transitional arches, and round-headed clerestory windows; while +a massive tower of Norman date rises above the crossing. The choir is +probably older than the nave, though the triple sedilia, with its pretty +dog-tooth enrichment, is evidently not earlier than the thirteenth +century. + +Towards the north one can trace the cloister-garth, where the Chapter +House, with its groined roof and slender, elegantly-proportioned +pillars, may still be seen. Beyond this lay the Abbot's dwelling, now a +private residence; with its chapel, ambulatory, and noble dining-hall +spanned by an open-timbered ceiling. In the vale towards the west lay +the vivaries, or fishponds, fed by a stream that runs down from the +neighbouring hills. + +At Buildwas Abbey, the monks of old kept alive the lamp of civilization +in dark, mediæval days. 'Within these walls peace reigned; from their +stately chambers ever arose the sound of prayer and praise; their gates +were open to the pilgrim and the traveller; hospitality, and brotherly +kindness, softened in many ways the harsh incidence of feudal custom.' + +Looking down-stream, as we stand upon Buildwas Bridge, we get a glimpse +of that dun, smoky district, which, like the black patch on a Court +beauty's cheek, seems to heighten by contrast the charms of the fair +landscape around. + +[Illustration: Madeley Court.] + +In the heart of this dingy region stands Madeley Court, a large, +rambling old manor-house of late Elizabethan, or perhaps early Jacobean, +date. At the time of Domesday Survey, the Manor of Madeley appertained +to Wenlock Priory; and in Edward the First's reign the Priors obtained +the King's license to enclose a park from the neighbouring Forest of +Mount Gilbert. + +As may be gathered from our sketch, Madeley Court is an extremely +picturesque old pile; the quaint stone gatehouse in the foreground, with +its turrets and mossy, stone-tiled roofs, contrasting pleasantly with +the mellow tints of the ancient mansion beyond. + +The scene is, unfortunately, much marred by its grimy environment; and +there is little to attract one in the interior of the dwelling, which is +tenanted by several humble workmen's families. The pool at the rear is a +relic of the Prior's fishponds, whence a stream ran away to turn the +wheel at the Manor Mill hard by. + +Beyond the fact that it was used as a country residence by the Priors of +Wenlock, but little is known about the history of Madeley Court. The +Ferrars family, we believe, made it their home at one time; and in +Charles the First's reign the mansion was in the hands of a stout old +Royalist, one Sir Basil Brooke. + +In the grounds upon the west side of the Court stands a very remarkable +sundial, or planetarium, probably as old as the house itself. It +consists of a large block of blackened freestone, supported upon a low +base, with cup-shaped holes scooped upon three of its sides. Each of +these holes originally contained a dial, but the dials themselves have +long since disappeared. This curious astronomical instrument, besides +being used as a sundial, could, it is said, be also employed to find the +position of the moon in relation to the planets. + +But to return to Buildwas. After passing the Abbey Hotel, a large, +oldfashioned hostelry, well known to brethren of the angle, we have a +delightful stroll by Severn side, with the ruins of Buildwas Abbey full +in view across the water, and a lowly church peeping out upon the +opposite side the way. + +Through a country where cornfields and pasture lands alternate +pleasantly, we push briskly on into Leighton, a tree-shaded village +seated beside a wide horseshoe reach of the Severn. Time out of mind has +this noble demesne been an appanage of the knightly family which gives +the place its name; indeed, there was already, they say, a de Leighton +here when Henry I. came to the throne. The little church, close by the +Hall, contains effigies of Sir Richard de Leighton, a fourteenth-century +knight arrayed in full battle harness, and of Sir William and his lady, +who flourished about a century later. + +Life, one would suppose, must be worth the living amidst these quiet, +rural scenes; and several of the villagers who rest in the green +churchyard have, we observe, well outrun a century ere they could tear +themselves away. + +Vorwärts! Anon we descry Eaton Constantine, the 'Etune' of Domesday +Book, a high-lying village held by Constantine the Norman at the rental +of a pair of white gloves, valued at one penny! Richard Baxter, the +puritan Divine, spent his early days up there, where his dwelling may +still be seen. + +[Illustration: The Lady Oak, Cressage.] + +Passing by a timber bridge across the Severn, we travel on to Cressage; +going near a very old manor-house now known as the Eye, or Island, farm. +This pretty village near Severn side derives its Domesday name of +Cristes-ache (_i.e._ Christ's-oak) from a tradition that the Gospel was +first preached in this locality beneath the shade of an oak tree. This +tradition is supported by the fact that a very ancient oak, in the last +stages of decay, standing on the outskirts of the village, has from time +immemorial been known as the Lady Oak ('Our Lady's Oak'), probably a +mediæval perversion of the earlier Saxon name. + +Belswardine House, on the hillside overlooking Cressage, is associated +with Judge Jeffreys, of execrable memory, who lived there for a time. + +Upon regaining the Leighton road we soon come to an elevated spot called +Watch Oak, whence we get a rare view over the plain of Shropshire, and +the towers and spires of the county-town, with the blue hills of Wales +soaring far away beyond the border-land heights. + +Eyton village lies only a mile away now, on a hill overlooking the +Severn. Eyton claims, we believe, to be the birthplace of that +accomplished scholar and author, Lord Herbert of Chirbury. The remains +of Eyton Hall are now incorporated with a farmhouse; it was built by Sir +Thomas Bromley, one of the executors of King Henry the Eighth's will, +and Lord Chancellor of England, in the last year of Edward VI. From the +Bromleys the estate subsequently passed, by the marriage of Sir Thomas's +heiress, to the Bridgman family. + +An obscure, winding lane, brings us in due course to the village of +Wroxeter. Here we are on ground classic to the archæologist, for +beneath our feet lie the ruins of Roman Uriconium. 'The site of this +long-deserted town,' writes Professor Paley, in the _Nineteenth Century_ +magazine, 'probably the most important one between Dover and Chester +(London not even excepted, till the latter days of the Roman +occupation), is of great extent, and it must have formed one of the +chief places of defence against the turbulent inhabitants of Wales. +Probably it was built as a precaution that the extremely strong position +of the Wrekin should not be occupied by the enemy.' + +Towards the close of the fifth century Uriconium was overwhelmed by the +Saxons; when the 'high-placed city of Wrecon,' as Llywarch-Hên, the old +Welsh bard, styles it, was utterly destroyed, and reduced to a heap of +ruins. In mediæval days these ruins doubtless fell a prey to the pious +monkish builder, who was very busy about that period: and, as time still +wore on, meadows and cornfields covered the forgotten site, and the +countryman wondered to see the coins and curious ornaments turned up by +his passing ploughshare. + +Thus matters remained until about the middle of the present century; +when the Shropshire Antiquarian Society opened up so much of the ruins +as funds would allow, though by far the larger portion of the 'English +Pompeii' remains to this day a terra incognita. Some fine day, perhaps, +this fascinating search will be renewed; for, in its glorious +uncertainty, the quest for antiquities is like prospecting for gold. +'You can't tell anything about gold,' a digger once remarked, 'you're +just as likely to find it where it ain't as where it are!' + +A green mound, running across country in a horseshoe form, marks the +limits of ancient Uriconium. Of this wall, the only portion remaining +above ground is a large mass measuring about 20 feet in height, by 3 +feet or so in thickness, and constructed, as was usual in Roman work, +with bonding-courses of thin red tiles, alternating at intervals with +the small squared stones of the masonry. + +Traces of arches with lateral walls between them are visible upon its +southern side; and somewhat farther from the wall, on the south, or +'city' side, may be seen the massive substructure of a building +considered to have been the Basilica, or, perhaps, Government Hall, of +the town. Close at hand appears an elaborate system of hypocausts and +tiled flues that supplied the hot baths, all in a very fair state of +preservation. Several skeletons were discovered in this portion of the +ruins, besides a number of coins, whose superscriptions gave a clue to +the date of the city's destruction. A hut near the entrance contains +many interesting objects brought to light in course of the excavations. + +But for the finer, more perishable objects found here, we must go to the +excellent Museum at Shrewsbury, where one may study at one's leisure the +countless articles of household use, personal adornment or what-not, +that speak, more eloquently than any description, of the everyday life +of Uriconium, sixteen hundred years ago. + +The Watling Street, that great military highway of the Romans, passed +through the city of Uriconium on its way from London to North Wales. +Another Roman road went southwards from the city; running viâ Church +Stretton, Leintwardine and Kenchester, to Abergavenny in Monmouthshire. + +[Illustration: The Ruins of Uriconium, and Wroxeter Church Tower.] + +We now retrace our steps to Wroxeter, and, crossing the line of the +ancient fosse, soon come to the parish church. Its tall, +picturesque-looking tower is relieved by ornamental string-courses, and +small niches with figures in them; while queer, uncouth gargoyles +project from the angles, as may be noticed in the sketch. + +Wroxeter church was originally a collegiate foundation, with four +resident priests, and a chantry dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin. In +1155 William FitzAlan, Lord of Wroxeter, presented the church to the +monastery of Haughmond, to which it continued to belong until the +Dissolution. + +From the Normans onwards, many builders have left their impress upon +this fine old fabric. Good Norman windows and a doorway of the same +period occupy the south wall of the chancel, where are several table +monuments, of which the most interesting, perhaps, is that to Sir Thomas +Bromley, whose house we have lately noticed at Eyton, and an elaborate +table-tomb, with effigies of Sir Richard Newporte, and Dame Margaret his +wife. + +An ancient register chest in the vestry has its surface traceried over +with elaborate ironwork. The font is curious, being fashioned from a +Roman capital; and various architectural odds-and-ends of Roman origin +are preserved in a garden adjoining the churchyard. Even the pillars on +either side the gateway, seen in our sketch, are treasure-trove from the +buried city. + +[Illustration: ATCHAM.] + +Farewell now to Uriconium, and to Wroxeter, its offspring, with their +time-honoured associations. Along the old Watling Street lies our way, +until, entering the Salop road, we cross the Bell brook near the site of +the Roman wall and trudge on past Attingham, serenely seated amidst its +broad demesne, with rich pastures and umbrageous woodlands spreading +away on either hand. Traversing Tern Bridge we presently come to Atcham, +a trim, well-cared-for-looking village, with a fine old church close by +Severn side, a handsome balustraded bridge spanning the broad river, and +memories of Ordericus Vitalis, the historian of William the Conqueror, a +native of Atcham. + +Dedicated to St. Eata, Atcham church is built of a reddish stone, +supposed to have been brought from the ruins of Uriconium. It has a +seventeenth-century timbered porch, and a fine traceried oak roodscreen, +brought, we believe, from Worfield church; while the carved panels of +the oak lectern illustrate the parable of the Prodigal Son. + +The only monument worthy of note is that of Jocosa Burton, an incised +slab brought from Old St. Chad's, Shrewsbury, and dated 1524. In one of +the south nave windows we notice some good stained glass representing +Blanch Parry, one of Queen Elizabeth's gentlewomen, kneeling at her +mistress's feet, with the Parry arms and an inscription recording her +death in 1589. This glass was brought from Bacton Church, Herefordshire, +where Blanch Parry's fine monument is still to be seen. It was +illustrated in 'Nooks and Corners of Herefordshire,' some few years ago. + +Crossing the bridge, we obtain a good view of the church reflected in +the placid river; and thereafter we stretch away along the Watling +Street, Rome's grand Prætorian thoroughfare of days gone by. Presently +Uppington and its ruined castle appear upon our left, looking across +Tern river to Withington, where the curious church brasses are. + +By-and-by we come to Hay Gate, where, as the name suggests, we enter +upon the 'Royal Haye of Wellington,' a tract of woodland emparked by the +Normans from the Forest of Mount Gilbert. This forest was formerly very +extensive, spreading over more than one of the old Domesday Hundreds; +and it was not until John's reign that a charter was obtained to +disafforest the district. + +So now, with the smoke of Wellington lurking upon the rear, we set our +faces southwards, where the dark wooded flanks of the Wrekin swell +upwards to meet the sky. Geologists tell us the Wrekin is the oldest +mountain in England; and, as the typical hill of our county, it has +given rise to the time-honoured Salopian toast, 'To All Round the +Wrekin.' + +Folk-lore, too, has had its say anent this famous hill. 'The Devil,' so +the story runs, 'had an old spite against Shrewsbury, so he determined +to bring a flood upon it: he would stop up the Severn! For this purpose +he came with a great spadeful of earth; but, outwitting himself, as many +of his children do, he lifted more than he could carry. Presently he +became fatigued upon his way to the river, and let some of the mould +fall--that is the Ercal (a smaller hill adjoining the larger). Then he +upset it all--and that is the Wrekin.' + +Beneath the hanging woods of Ercal lies our onward way. After passing +Buckatree, _i.e._ Buck-i'-the-Tree, Hall, we traverse a shady dingle, +and tackle the climb to the summit of old Wrekin himself; an +exhilarating pull beneath whispering fir-trees, and by grassy glades +carpeted with soft moss and springy pine needles, glimpses of blue +distance between whiles whetting one's appetite for the good things to +come. Nor is the scene wanting in animation, the ubiquitous lover and +his lass figuring prominently in every prospect: for Wrekin's brow is a +favourite haunt of picknickers and holiday folk from all the Midland +parts. + +From 'Hell's Gate' we ascend to 'Heaven's Gate,' and so win our way to +the brow of the Wrekin, 1,335 feet above the sea. 'There is on the Toppe +of this Hill a delicate plaine Ground, and in this plaine a fayre +Fountaine,' wrote Leland, the antiquary, long ago. No water is to be +found there now except such as collects, from time to time, in the +'Raven's Bowl,' a cup-like depression on the top of a conical outcrop of +rock, known as the 'Bladder, (or Balder's) Stone.' At the foot of this +rock there is a deep, narrow, crooked cleft, yclept the 'Needle's Eye.' +Now the fable goes that, if any young maid dips her foot into the +Raven's Bowl, and then 'threads the Needle's Eye,' by scrambling through +the cloven rock, she will be married within a twelvemonth, 'so sure as +there's acherns in Shropshire.' + +Owing to an isolated situation, the Wrekin commands a better all-round +view than some of his loftier compeers. To merely chronicle a lot of +remote hill-tops would, however, convey but a bald impression of a scene +which owes so much to atmospheric effect; so we will only remark that +the prospect embraces hills so wide asunder as Axe Edge, near Buxton, +and the Brecon Beacons in South Wales; Cader Idris, above Dolgelly, and +Bardon Hill in Leicestershire--'a delightfully awful prospect,' as +someone has quaintly described it. + +A goodly cantle of Shropshire lies at our feet, like a map unfurled on a +table; its heights and hollows beautifully diversified by cornfields and +orchards, verdant pastures and ruddy plough-fields; while in and between +the green hedgerows are seen, like the meshes of a huge net. + +Towards the east, the landscape is sadly marred by the smoke of the +Shropshire coalfield; so we turn to the opposite quarter, where the +Wrekin, falling away by Primrose Hill, bathes his feet in the silver +Severn. Yonder in the vale we can just descry the ruined Abbey of +Buildwas, with Wenlock church-steeple peeping over a neighbouring hill. +That high-lying village away to the left is Little Wenlock, 'Wenlock +under the Wrekin,' as it was anciently called. + +After 'boxing the compass' in a final farewell glance, we bid adieu to +the Wrekin, and plunge downhill again by way of 'Hell Gate'--facilis +descensus Averni--until by-and-by we come to Wellington, a place that, +from the diminutive 'vill' of King John's days, has grown to a +smoke-begrimed mining centre, with little attraction for travellers, +like ourselves, in search of the picturesque. + +But near the Watling Street, about a couple of miles away, we find +'metal more attractive,' in the form of a fine old timbered manor-house, +called Arleston. The date 1614, upon one of its gable-ends, is probably +not that of the main structure, which looks considerably older. + +There are some very fine plaster ceilings inside, with fruit and foliage +elaborately interwoven amidst scenes from the chase, etc., and curious +plaster pendants. A small painted figure, let into the wall, is said to +represent King James I. In olden times Arleston was used as a +hunting-box by the Lords Forester; when, no doubt, it was a place of +some consequence. It is now occupied as a farmhouse. + +[Illustration: The Sign of the Raven. Much-Wenlock.] + + + + +TO LILLESHALL ABBEY, TONG, AND BOSCOBEL. + + +From Wellington, a short spin by train brings us to Donnington station. +Here we alight, and, running the gauntlet of some grimy ironworks, we +strike into a cross-country road and make for Lilleshall Abbey. Anon we +espy the graceful ruins, overtopped by a wooded hill, with the stately +grey façade of Lilleshall House shewing up well amidst a setting of +luxuriant foliage. + +[Illustration: Lilleshall Abbey. Shropshire.] + +Turning across the meadows, we now make the best of our way to the old +ruined Abbey. The most striking feature still remaining is the rich, +late-Norman portal of the west front, which, with a fragment of one +slender, ivy-clad tower, figures prominently in our sketch. A beautiful +Norman doorway, with bold chevron ornamentation upon pillars and arch, +gives access to the choir, the oldest portion of the edifice. Eastwards +extends the church devoted to the monks; westwards, the people's church, +built at a later date. + +To the south, around a square cloister court, rise the ruins of the +monastic buildings, the chapter-house, the parlour, the refectory; and +beyond these again lay the large fishponds, the dovecot, etc. + +All is now far gone into a state of ruin and decay, over which Nature +has spread her mantle of luxuriant ivy; while wind and weather have +combined to add their softening touches. Set in the midst of a green, +tranquil landscape, 'the world forgetting, by the world forgot,' this +venerable pile seems redolent of memories from dim, mediæval days, when +life went forward in quite another fashion from these hard-driven, +high-pressure times. + +From an excellent local handbook by the late C. C. Walker, Esq., we +glean the following particulars anent the history of Lilleshall Abbey. +'The Convent of the Monastery of the Blessed Virgin Mary at Lilleshull' +was founded, about the middle of the twelfth century, for monks of the +Order of St. Augustine; Philip de Belmeis, Lord of Tong, being the first +Patron of the monastery. + +The establishment received charters from more than one of our Kings, +besides gifts and benefactions from many pious donors. Yet, in spite of +all these riches, the worthy Abbots had much ado to make both ends meet, +so great was the host of needy pilgrims that daily came clamouring at +their gates, as they journeyed to and fro along Watling Street. + +By-and-by came the Dissolution; when the monastery was abolished, the +Abbey lands leased to Sir William Cavendish, and the reversion of the +whole demesne sold by Henry VIII. to James Leveson, of Wolverhampton, +ancestor of the Dukes of Sutherland, in whose family the estate has +continued ever since. + +About a mile west of the Abbey ruins, at the foot of an abrupt, rocky +hill, whence the place takes its name, stands Lilleshall village, with +its ancient parish church. Lilleshall church, as we now see it, dates +from the early part of the thirteenth century; having in all probability +supplanted an earlier structure, whereof the font, a very old stone +vessel carved in a primitive manner, is perhaps the only survival. + +In the grounds of the old Hall, a stuccoed, gabled house at the entrance +to the village, is a large pool, or lakelet, whose waters formerly +served to turn the wheel of the Abbey Mill mentioned in Domesday Record. + +Lille's-hill, the Hill of Lilla, the Saxon, stands but a bowshot off +from the church. Rising amidst a flattish country, it commands an +extensive panorama in the direction of the west; though itself of so +modest a height that the bulky obelisk, to some defunct Duke of +Sutherland, with which it is crowned, seems quite to dwarf the +monticle. + +[Illustration: Shiffnal. Shropshire.] + +Due south, as the crow flies, from Lilleshall Abbey lies Shiffnal, a +little old market town, whither we now betake ourselves. Emerging from +the mirky Shropshire coalfield, the train runs near the ruins of Malins +Lee chapel, a diminutive edifice of early Norman date; and then, passing +over a tall viaduct, gives us a bird's-eye view of red-tiled roofs and a +ruddy sandstone church, as it enters Shiffnal station. Whether or no +owing to the warm, mellow tints of these antique buildings, there is a +kind of homely air about this quiet townlet; and its principal inn, the +Jerningham Arms, is a model of what a country inn should be; though, +like some members of the fair sex, it conceals its real age, being much +older than the date 1705, inscribed upon the front, would lead one to +suppose. + +There are several ancient houses dotted about the town, of which a good +coup d'oeil is obtained by taking one's stand beneath the big railway +arch that spans the High Street, whence our sketch was taken. + +Notice the substantial-looking house upon the left, a very old building +with an early eighteenth-century brick front, and quaint, glazed turret +atop. Beyond it is seen a group of half-timbered gables, with carved +bargeboards, brackets and moulded beams; while a smaller house of +similar character keeps them in countenance across the way. + +[Illustration: Shiffnal Church.] + +St. Andrew's church, a fine, cruciform structure, begun about 1180 A.D., +rises beside the Bridgnorth road, on the western flank of the town. + +From its southern side projects a wide stone porch, with a curious +chamber, called a parvise, above it. Enshrouded by dark yews, and with +the old, weatherworn tower soaring overhead, this porch makes an +excellent study for the artist's pencil. + +Within, the church wears a somewhat sombre air, owing to the rich, +subdued colour of its ancient masonry. The nave is covered by a handsome +hammer-beam roof; while four lofty, elegant arches span the crossing +beneath the central tower. Eastward of the crossing we get a glimpse of +the original Norman chancel arch, with a bit of carved work above it; +and the tracery of the east window, though simple, strikes us as good in +style. + +Beneath an arched recess in the north wall of the chancel lies the +figure of a tonsured priest, cut in stone, with the following +inscription: HERE . LIETH . THE . BODY . OF . THOMAS . FORSTER . SOME . +TIME . PRIOR . OF . WOMBRIDGE . WARDEN . OF . TONGUE . & . VICAR . OF . +IDSALL . 1526: Idsall, it may be observed, is the olden form of +Shiffnal, and Tongue is the modern Tong. + +A couple of instances of longevity in connection with this place are too +good to be missed. Born at Shiffnal in 1590, William Wakley was buried +at Adbaston in 1714, aged 124. Mary Yates, another veteran, lived to the +ripe old age of 127 years. She is said to have walked from Shiffnal to +London when only seventeen, just after the Great Fire of London, in +1666. + +Southward from Shiffnal the infant Worf ripples along through a quiet, +agricultural country; with a number of old paper mills strung along its +course like beads upon a string, and villages and country seats dotted +about on the neighbouring uplands. + +Overlooking this pleasant vale rises Brimstree Hill, an admirable +view-point within easy strolling distance from Shiffnal. 'Mornin', +sirs,' says a carter, giving us the sele of the day, as he stops to +breathe his team on the brow of the hill. 'Come to look about yer, like? +There's many a one I've seen a-standin' here, same as you be, to look at +the country yander. It's bin plaguey whot a-comin' up the bank, but we +shanna be long now afore we gets to th' Horseshoe.' So, accepting this +pretty broad hint, we drop a coin into friend carter's ready fist, and, +turning over an adjacent stile, proceed to spy out the land. + +And well worth coming to see it proves, for, though our present +elevation is but slight, it gives us an outlook over a lordly landscape. +As George Borrow very aptly remarks, 'What a beautiful country is +England! People run abroad to see beautiful countries, and leave their +own behind unknown, unnoticed, their own, the most beautiful!' + +Returning to Shiffnal, we proceed thence towards Tong: traversing a +broken, undulating country chequered with woodlands, sandy warrens and +cornfields, where the young wheat is shot with the scarlet gleam of the +poppies. In yonder meadow haymaking is in full swing, the women's aprons +fluttering to the breeze, the high-piled waggon half smothered beneath +its big, sweet-scented load, and some labouring men resting under the +hedgerow. Rooks are swaying hither and thither in the wind, and +clustering about the tops of the tall elms in the foreground--altogether +one of those breezy, rural scenes, that David Cox and John Linnel knew +so well how to portray. + +[Illustration: Tong Castle.] + +Presently we traverse a secluded dingle, with regiments of foxgloves +standing sentinel along the laneside, and ferns and wildflowers galore +draping the glades beyond. Then, approaching our destination, the +country opens out, revealing a richly timbered vale where silvery meres +meander in long, still, reed-fringed reaches, and swans sail to and fro +amidst the water-lilies. Hence we get a charming peep of Tong Castle, a +large stone mansion of curiously bizarre architecture, with an old +tree-begirt pigeon-house mirrored in the placid waters of the mere. + +The original castle had a venerable history, if we are to credit the +following tradition. Once upon a time Hengist, the Saxon, having aided +King Vortigern in his wars, was offered by that monarch as much land as +an ox-hide would enclose. Thereupon the wily Teuton hit upon the device +of cutting an ox-hide into narrow strips, wherewith he enclosed a goodly +cantle of land, and upon it built Tong Castle. + +[Illustration: Tong Church.] + +Now Tong Church is seen ahead, crowning the brow of a gentle rise, with +the ivy-clad ruins of the ancient 'College and Almose House,' stretching +down towards the mere below; a place which, as John Leland tells us, was +'an Auncient Foundation of the Vernons of Haddon in the Peke.' + +In 'The Old Curiosity Shop,' Charles Dickens has given us this +fascinating glimpse of Tong Church. "See--here's the church!" cried the +delighted schoolmaster in a low voice; "and that old building close +beside it is the school-house, I'll be sworn." It was a very aged, +ghostly place; the church had been built many hundreds of years ago, and +had once had a convent or monastery attached; for arches in ruins, +remains of oriel windows, and fragments of blackened walls, were yet +standing; while other portions of the old building, which had crumbled +away and fallen down, were mingled with the churchyard earth, and +overgrown with grass.' + +'They admired everything--the old grey porch, the mullioned windows, the +venerable gravestones dotting the green churchyard, the ancient tower, +the very weathercock: the brown thatched roofs of cottage, barn and +homestead, peeping from among the trees; the stream that rippled by the +distant water-mill; the blue Welsh mountains far away.' + +Though perhaps the old church is not now in quite so picturesque a state +of decay, this description holds good in the main to-day; and our sketch +may convey some idea of its outward appearance. + +[Illustration: At Tong Church.] + +Upon stepping within we discern, by the 'dim, religious light' that +filters through traceried windows, a venerable interior crowded with +sculptured tombs, old gothic screens and curiously carved stall work; +all so richly wrought in alabaster, wood and stone, as to repay the +closest examination. The Vernon and Pembrugge tombs, indeed, are +considered the finest of their kind in Shropshire, and a detailed +description of them would fill a good-sized volume. + +A 'leper's' door gives access to the vestry, which contains a library of +rare old tomes, stoutly bound in faded parchment; and a wonderful piece +of ecclesiastical needlework, wrought by the nuns of Whiteladies, Heaven +knows how many years ago. + +[Illustration: A Treasure from Tong.] + +Then there is the beautiful Cup, or Chalice, which figures upon this +page. + +This Cup, which is probably of foreign workmanship, is of silver-gilt, +richly chased with delicate, scrolly patterns, and a small leaf +ornamentation around the middle part, which has crystal in lieu of +glass, and lions' heads upon the three upright supporters. The top is +formed as a removable lid, and is surmounted by a small knop; and the +base is relieved by scrolls, and boldly emphasized mouldings. + +Authorities differ as to the use which this interesting and unique Cup +was originally intended to serve; but it has been suggested that it was +either a 'ciborium,' to contain the reserved sacrament, or a +'monstrance,' for displaying the sacred wafer. It was presented to Tong +church by Lady Eleanor Harries, about 1625, but is supposed to have +previously belonged to the old College established here by the Vernons +in the fifteenth century. + +[Illustration: Sir Arthur Vernon.] + +The Vernon Chantry, or 'Golden Chapel,' as it is called, forms a small +but richly ornamented annexe on the south side of the church. It was +'ffounded,' as an inscription attests, by Sir Henry Vernon, in 1515, +and contains, in a niche upon its western wall, a curious half-length +stone effigy of Sir Arthur Vernon, sometime Warden of Tong College, to +whom there is a brass upon the floor. At the opposite end of the chapel +is the ancient altar stone, with the five consecrational crosses incised +upon it. + +Having paid a visit to the Great Bell, one of the 'lions' of Tong, and +glanced at the quaint bellringers' 'Laws' set up in the tower, we now +bid farewell to Tong church, and, traversing the tranquil village, pause +at the lodge-gate of Tong castle to examine the fantastic devices carved +upon its stonework. + +Then, with the sunshine lying broad on copse and meadow, we set forth +anew into the country lanes; and soon espy an old sandstone quarry +choked up with nettles and bramble bushes, whence, as one may suppose, +the masons drew their stones for the building of Tong church. + +By-and-by a secluded lane receives us, a lane so grass-grown and +untrodden, that haymakers are busy making hay upon its long green track. + +[Illustration: Hubbal Grange, or Penderel's Cot.] + +Thence without meeting a soul en route we come presently to Hubbal +Grange, or Penderel's Cot, as it is sometimes called; a lonely cottage, +with some signs of age about it. Indeed, by all accounts, the place +seems to have been little altered since King Charles II., in the guise +of Will Jones, the woodman, journeyed hither on his wanderings; and was +befriended by Dame Joan Penderel, the mistress of the house, and by +'Trusty Dick,' her son. + +From Hubbal Grange we get a direction for Whiteladies. 'It isn't a very +gain road for a stranger to find,' says the mistress of the cottage, +'but there's huntin' wickets all the way. Keep along by th'urdles, and +follow the rack under th'ood, and you'll find a glatt in the hedge as'll +lead you down to the brook, just by a bit of a plank-way.' + +So off we set across country, coming after awhile to an ivy-clad ruin, +standing in a secluded spot under the lee of a wood. Giving this the +go-by for the present, we now traverse the wood and hasten on to +Boscobel; leaving upon our left the tree crowned monticle, where +Cromwell's troopers entrenched themselves to overawe the neighbourhood. + +[Illustration: Boscobel House.] + +Anon the old Manor-house, or Hunting-lodge, of Boscobel comes in view, +with the royal oak in the foreground, and a belt of dark woodlands +beyond; a scene ever memorable in English history as the refuge of the +unhappy Charles II., after his flight from Worcester field. + +Everyone is familiar with the incidents of that romantic drama; how King +Charles took to flight, with Cromwell's riders hard upon his heels; how, +disguised as Will Jones, a simple peasant man, he wandered through +Brewood Forest, with the trusty Penderels to guide the way; how the +royal fugitive took up his lodging in the hidie-holes of Boscobel House, +until, the hue-and-cry waxing ever more close and keen, the King was at +last forced to seek a precarious refuge amidst the branches of the now +famous oak, while the faithful Dame Joan 'gathered sticks, and diverted +the horsemen from the oak his majesty was in.' + +This oak tree, or rather a scion of the same stock, rises in a meadow +a few hundred yards south from the house, the observed of all observers +when tourists come a-sight-seeing to Boscobel. The pros-and-cons of its +pedigree have proved a fruitful topic of debate among the learned in +forest-lore, and the question is likely to remain sub judice for many a +day to come. So having made our salaam to 'King Charles's Oak,' we now +repair without more ado to the ancient Manor-house itself. + +[Illustration: Boscobel.] + +Opening a green door in the boundary wall, we find ourselves in a +quaint, oldfashioned garden, with formal parterres and neatly paved +pathways, where, traced in white pebbles, we decipher the +half-obliterated legend ... QUINQUE . FRATRUM . DE . STIRPE . PENDEREL . +or some such words as those, and the date 1651. Atop of a raised bank +in the corner yonder stands 'the pretty arbour in Boscobel Garden, which +grew upon a mount, where his Majesty spent some time of the Lord's day +in reading, and commended the place for its retiredness.' + +Very picturesque and sequestered the old Manor-house looks as we draw +near, with its barns and outbuildings, and goodly array of haystacks in +the barton. What tales could the old place unfold, were it but endowed +with the gift of speech to describe the stirring scenes it has witnessed +in days of yore. Deep within that huge chimney-stack was concealed a +secret stair, whence, in times of stress, a fugitive could escape from +the house through a door disguised beneath the ivy; while the windows +above are not windows at all, but mere painted imitations. + +But let us look within. We first enter the 'parlour or music room,' a +large apartment with wainscoted walls, and moulded oak beams in the +ceiling, and a rather curious black marble chimney-piece. Though +considerably modernized, it is a handsome room enough; and upon its +walls hang oil portraits of Charles II. and Oliver Cromwell. + +Dame Penderel Anno Dom 1662. + +Thence we pass on into a small panelled chamber, used by the King as a +study, or private oratory. It is draped with faded tapestry, and +contains a copy of a remarkable portrait of Dame Penderel, whereby +'hangs a tale.' An old canvas, which for many years had been used as a +'drawer' for a kitchen fireplace, proved, upon being cleaned, to be a +portrait of Joan Penderel, mother of the young men who assisted King +Charles in his escape. It was probably the work of some local artist, +and bears the inscription DAME . PENDERIL . ANNO . DOM . 1662. A glance +at the portrait will shew a countenance full of quiet dignity and +character, surmounted by a queer, peaked, gipsy hat, a white coif +falling around the face, and the red rose held between thumb and finger. +Upon the floor of this chamber stands an ancient coffer, carved with a +very quaint representation of the Royal Oak, and the words C . R . +BOSCOBEL . 1651. This coffer is depicted at the end of the present +chapter. + +Upstairs we are shewn the secret closet that opens into the great +outside chimney already referred to. Then, clambering to the garret, a +trap-door is lifted at the head of the stairs, revealing the dark, +narrow hole, into which the unfortunate monarch had to squeeze himself +whenever his enemies drew nigh. A short ladder leads down into it; and, +when Charles was in hiding here, cheeses were rolled over the spot, so +that His Majesty might lurk in security, if not exactly in comfort. +Hence a rude stairway, fashioned in the thickness of the wall, +communicates with the lower hidie-hole, enabling the refugee to escape +outside the house by means of the chimney stair before mentioned. + +Bidding farewell to Boscobel, we now retrace our steps to the old ruin +beside the wood. Here in the depths of Brewood Forest was founded, in +Richard Plantagenet's reign, a Cistercian nunnery, which, on account of +the white habit of the nuns, was called Whiteladies; in +contradistinction to the Black Ladies of the Benedictine monastery, just +across the Staffordshire border. + +The establishment appears to have continued, with more or less +prosperity, until the date of the Dissolution of the Monasteries; but +then John Leland's note of 'Byrwoode, a Priory of White Nunnes, lately +suppressid, in the very Marche of Shropshire into Darbyshire,' tells its +own tale of surrender and spoliation. + +Of the conventual buildings little now remains save the north wall of a +chapel of Norman date, with several circular-headed windows, a good +Norman doorway with a cusp-like ornamentation around the head, and a +large arch opening into a transept, now gone. Such slight fragments of +carved work as remain, upon capital or string-course, are refined in +character. + +[Illustration: At Whiteladies.] + +Dotted about the greensward are seen a number of ancient headstones, +only one of which has any interest for us here. Thus runs the faded +epitaph: HERE . LIETH . THE . BODIE . OF . A . FRIENDE . THE . KING . +DID . CALL . DAME . JOAN : BUT . NOW . SHE . IS . DECEAST . AND . GONE : +ANNO . DOM . 1669: This is that worthy Dame Joan Penderel who, with her +stalwart sons, rendered such yeoman service to Charles II. in time of +need; and whose portrait we have lately seen at Boscobel House. A large, +rambling, half-timbered mansion, which originally formed part of the +monastic building, has long since disappeared, leaving not one stone +upon another. It is illustrated in Blount's 'Boscobel.' + +With sun and wind in our faces we now set out for Albrighton, a +fieldpath helping every now and again to cut off a corner of the road, +and lending variety to the route. + +This summer breeze, sweet from the clover-scented meadows, comes very +welcome to way-worn, travel-stained tramps. Nature's green carpet +underfoot is damasked with buttercups, great white ox-eye daisies, and +many another wildflower; while the hemlock weaves its fairylike fringe +along the skirts of the hedgerow. The soaring lark pours down her melody +as she climbs the sky, and every copse and spinny resounds with the +'charm' of feathered songsters. + +But heaven's artillery now mutters in the distance; the birds soon hush +their voices in the woods; vast cumulus clouds arise, and blot out the +jolly sunshine; the breeze dies quite away, and the sultry air seems big +with coming storm. + +Suddenly down plumps the rain, in splashes first, as large as +sixpenny-pieces; but anon with a steady downpour that drives one into +waterproof gear. The brunt of the battle, however, is not for us; the +cloud-wrack and tempest rolling away over the country in confused, +towering masses, like an army in full retreat; while shafts of sunlight +skirmish athwart the landscape in pursuit of the flying foe. + +The rain ceasing as suddenly as it began, we push on along the lonely +road; with a little, dry, dusty Sahara under each tree overhanging the +pathway, and blue puddles in every wheel-rut, like bits of the sky +tumbled out of their places. The woodlands re-echo once more to the pipe +of thrush, piefinch and blackbird; and the parched foliage renews its +youth in the genial, life-giving moisture. + +Meanwhile, as the hedgerows, all a-sparkle with raindrops, go twinkling +by, we fall to 'blowing the cool tobacco cloud, and watching the white +wreaths pass;' and vowing that, let tarry-at-home folk say what they +will, there's no such thing as bad weather! + +So we jog merrily onward; now meeting a waggoner loading timber at a +farmyard gate, anon passing the time of day with an old country woman +tending her cow by the laneside. Nothing much worthy of note is seen +until, drawing nigh our destination, we come to a place called +Humphreston, where the lane takes a sudden turn. + +Here we find a large old timbered farmhouse, with huge oak beams in the +ceiling of its roomy kitchen, and carved panelling around some of the +better rooms; and doors upstairs that still retain their original +wrought iron hinges and wooden thumb-latches. The place must formerly +have been surrounded by a moat, for a part of it yet remains, besides a +good stone doorway in the adjacent boundary wall--altogether a notable +old house, which looks as if it might have had a history. Who knows but +what it is named after that Humphrey Penderel, Miller of Whiteladies +Mill, whose horse had the honour of carrying, as he declared, 'the price +of three kingdoms on his back'? + +Thence it is but a mile to The Crown at Albrighton, a fine, upstanding +old inn, shewing a ruddy, genial-looking gabled front towards the +village street, and boasting withal one of the best bowling-greens in +the county. So calling in to test the quality of mine host's ale, +half-an-hour slips away in no time as we take our ease in the bar +parlour, before starting forth to investigate our new neighbourhood. + +[Illustration: Albrighton.] + +Guided by the sound of bells, we soon find our way to Albrighton church, +which, overlooking a placid mere, rises beside the highway at the +farther end of the village. + +Though considerably restored, the church is not devoid of interest, a +good rose window in the gable of the north aisle being a noticeable +feature, as also are the curious circular openings on either side the +belfry windows. + +In the chancel, carved in marble, John Talbot of Grafton lies in state +beside his lady wife; while Master Leonard Smallpage of Pepperhill has +to content himself with a bald stone slab, outside in the chilly +churchyard. But he had a goodly dwelling in his time, as we shall +presently see. + +A bowshot away towards the north, beyond the lake-like mere, stands a +rival church, St. Cuthbert's, the parish church of Donington. On the way +thither we turn aside to take a look at St. Cuthbert's well, a perennial +spring of water much resorted to in bygone days as a cure for sore eyes. + +Donington church, like its neighbour across the water, has been largely +renovated in recent times. Its thirteenth-century chancel has some +interesting features; a good oak roof, supported upon carved brackets, +overarches the nave, and some massive oak pews with enriched panels are +to be found in the north aisle. + +We now retrace our steps as far as The Crown at Albrighton, and, +following a by-lane, come presently to Boningale, one of those quiet, +out-of-the-way hamlets on the road to nowhere, whither the echoes of +this eager nineteenth century seem scarce to penetrate, and where one's +footfall in the silent street brings the villagers agape to their open +doors. + +[Illustration: Old Well-Cover at Pepperhill. Albrighton.] + +A handful of antiquated cottages and small farmhouses, and a little +green churchyard with headstones bowered in roses, are soon left behind. +Anon, after passing The Horns, a wayside posting house, we strike into a +lane leading to the south, and hark away through some broken country to +Pepperhill, a curious old dwelling-house standing all by itself, close +upon the Staffordshire border. + +Built upon an outcrop of the sandstone rock, the house occupies a +commanding position, having probably superseded a structure of +considerably greater antiquity. The present edifice, partly constructed +of brick, partly of stone, has a mighty chimney stack projecting from +its southern end; and now affords a home for several cottagers. + +The main building has been tastefully fitted up as a rural residence by +Colonel Thorneycroft, of Wolverhampton. A kind of observatory has been +formed upon the roof, whence a wide and beautiful prospect is obtained +towards the west and south. + +In the garden hard by rises the curious stone structure shewn in the +sketch on p. 169. For want of a better term, it has been called a +Fountain, though amongst the country folk it goes by the name of the +'Pepperbox.' It is hexagonal in plan; of Italian, or classic, design; +much worn and weathered by time, as well as damaged by careless hands; +and appears to be of early seventeenth-century date. Broken, weedgrown +and neglected, this old Fountain is so nicely proportioned and finely +wrought, that it looks picturesque in its decay. The well to which it +originally served as a cover has long since ceased to exist. + +Pepperhill, we understand, was formerly an appanage of the Earls of +Shrewsbury and Talbot; and was afterwards the home of Leonard Smallpage, +whose name we have already seen in Albrighton churchyard. Some scanty +remains of ecclesiastical buildings are traceable at Lower Pepperhill, +but of their history very little is known. + +[Illustration: The Royal Oak.] + +[Illustration: Bridgnorth.] + + + + +ROUND ABOUT BRIDGNORTH. + + +Clinging limpet-like upon the crest and shoulders of a steep, sandstone +crag, on the western bank of the Severn, the ancient town of Bridgnorth +occupies a situation of more than ordinary picturesqueness. 'Where +Severne runneth, Nature hath made a terrible Dike,' wrote John Leland +anent Bridgnorth in the days of Henry VIII.; and to this 'terrible Dike' +the town owes its unique aspect among all the towns of Shropshire. + +Confronting the river rise, tier above tier, the little old brown-roofed +dwellings; so closely packed that the cottager, as he stands in his +rustic porch, can almost peep down his neighbour's chimney and see what +is cooking for dinner! Bits of garden ground with their varied greenery +lend a pleasant, rural air; while in and between wind steep, narrow, +stepped paths; reminding one of Clovelly, and of certain mountain +townlets in northern Italy. + +At the foot of the hill, the Severn is spanned by the old stone Bridge +whence the town derives its name. Beyond this bridge lies the riverside +suburb of Lower Town, occupying a sort of amphitheatre enclosed by the +rocky ridge which flanks the vale upon its eastern side. + +To see Bridgnorth at its best, let the visitor stand, about sundown of +an early autumn day, upon this old bridge; or, better still, take a boat +on the river. Then the old town may be trusted to give one a touch of +its quality; its brown walls and roofage blending with the ruddy rock +into deep, harmonious tints; a ray of light from some cottage pane here +and there reflected in the dark, silent water; while the two tall church +towers on the crest of the ridge still glow in the last warm rays of the +departing day. + +So much, then, for general effect; let us now get to closer quarters. +Turning our backs upon the Bridge, we bear to the right and enter the +Cartway, in olden times the one and only route by which vehicles could +ascend to the Upper Town. + +[Illustration: Ancient House, Bridgnorth.] + +Confronting us as we climb the steep, crooked lane, rises the old +half-timbered mansion which figures in the accompanying sketch; one of +the few of its kind that have survived the ravages of the Civil Wars. +Built in the sixteenth century, its weatherbeaten front shews the +delightful irregularity so often seen in structures of that period. + +The interior, half workshop, half mean tenement, has lost all interest +for the antiquary, the only indigenous feature being a ponderous lintel +stone carved with the ensuing inscription: EXCEPT . THE . LORD . BVILD . +THE . OWSE . THE . LABOVRERS . THERE . OF . EVAIL . NOT . ERECTED . BY . +R . FOR* 1580. The latter part of the sentence is a cryptic rendering of +the name of Richard Forester, secretary to Bishop Bonner, an ancestor of +the family which for generations past has dwelt at Willey Hall. + +But the name most associated with this ancient residence is that of Dr. +Percy, sometime Bishop of Dromore, who was born beneath its roof in +1728. In his day and generation, Bishop Percy was an author and +antiquary of no mean calibre; and his 'Reliques of Antient English +Poetry' was once widely celebrated. + +Mounting upwards again, we pass a group of queer cottages and shops, +oddly mixed up amidst the native rock with which they are incorporated; +and finally we emerge upon an ample greensward, with St. Leonard's +church rising in the middle. + +This church has undergone some remarkable vicissitudes. John Leland, in +1536, found it a 'very fayre one'; but during the Civil Wars it suffered +much damage through an encounter which took place, between Royalists and +Roundheads, in the churchyard; when Colonel Billingsley, commander of +the town regiment, was slain. + +But of late years St. Leonard's has been admirably restored, and is now +worthy of the ancient town it adorns. The original church was mainly of +thirteenth-century date; though its noble tower, built of salmon-red +sandstone, is of somewhat later style, and rich and handsome to a +degree. A fine, open-timbered roof was brought to light during +restoration; and the east window has been filled with stained glass in +memory of the late Dr. Rowley, who, as Head Master, was for many years +the 'bright particular star' of Bridgnorth School. Colonel Billingsley's +sword is preserved in the south aisle, where there are also some curious +old cast-iron memorial tablets. + +In one corner of the churchyard stand Palmer's Almshouses, a series of +low, timbered structures, grouped around a small courtyard approached +through a modernized archway. This charity owes its inception to Francis +Palmer, nephew of Colonel Billingsley, by whom it was established in +1687 for the benefit of ten poor widows. + +Close at hand rise the plain, brown brick gables of the erstwhile +Grammar School, established in Henry the Eighth's time; a +sedate-looking, antiquated edifice, attractive by its very simplicity. A +diminutive black-and-white cottage, whose latticed casements look out +demurely upon the churchyard, was once the home of Richard Baxter, the +divine, ere his name had become famous in the land. + +We now pass on into the High Street, a broad, cheerful thoroughfare, +over whose uneasy, cobble-stone pavement, we make our penitential +progress. Midway adown the street rises the ancient Town Hall, the +centre and focus of Bridgnorth, its plain rounded archways bestriding +the horse-road, and affording a passage way. Overhead, its half-timbered +gable is relieved by oriel windows filled with stained glass; while the +steep, tiled roof is surmounted by a slender bell-turret, terminating in +a weather vane. + +This notable old building dates from the year 1652, having been erected +by the burgesses to replace an earlier Town Hall, destroyed during the +Civil Wars. Here may be seen the Council Chamber, the Court of Justice, +etc., where the town magnates sit in conclave to administer the affairs +of this historic Borough; and the modern stained glass windows of the +various courts, inserted as a memorial of the Queen's Jubilee, afford a +study in the corporate life of Bridgnorth. + +Confronting the Town Hall, across the way, appears the ancient +many-windowed façade of the Swan Inn, a rare specimen of a country-town +hostelry of the spacious Tudor times; and scarcely less effective, +though more modernized, are the chequered gables and quaintly carved +brackets of a neighbouring residence. The North Gate, last survivor of +Bridgnorth's town gates, spans the end of the street with its three +uneven archways. + +[Illustration: Market Place. Bridgnorth.] + +Saturday is market-day at Bridgnorth, as it has been from time +immemorial. The long ranks of tented booths, with the crowds frequenting +them, make an animated scene; for the countryfolk foregather then from +long distances around, and hearty Shropshire greetings are heard on +every hand. As nightfall wears on the fun waxes faster; and lucky the +housewives whose menfolk win their way home at last in no worse plight +than 'market-peart,' to use the Shropshire phrase. + +[Illustration: Market Day at Bridgnorth.] + +We now push on to Castle Hill, the southern horn of the monticle on +which Bridgnorth is located. Before us rises the tall, classic tower of +St. Mary Magdalene's church, which, though designed by Telford, the +celebrated engineer, already shews signs of instability. Despite its +quasi-classic garb, this church is one of the oldest ecclesiastical +foundations in the town; having been transferred to Bridgnorth, from St. +Mary Magdalene's at Quatford, by Earl Robert de Belesme, when he built +Bridgnorth Castle. So old, indeed, is this foundation, that, even in +Leland's time, the church appears to have been in a state of disrepair; +that painstaking chronicler recording, 'there is a college church of St. +Mary Magdalene within the Castle; the church itself is now a rude +thinge.' + +In the reign of Edward III., William of Wykeham, the famous Bishop of +Winchester, held for a time the Prebend of Alveley in St. Mary's church, +which was the head of an ecclesiastical district bearing the imposing +title of 'The Royal Peculiar and Exempt Jurisdiction of the Deanery of +Bridgnorth.' + +A stone's-throw farther on we enter the Public Gardens, where, 'all on +one side, like Bridgnorth Election,' rises the ancient Leaning Tower, +sole remains of Bridgnorth Castle, in its time one of the strongest and +most important fortresses in all Shropshire. For some two centuries and +a half has this massive, grey, limestone ruin, braved the wear-and-tear +of the elements, after Cromwell's men had tried in vain to raze it to +the ground. + +Built by Earl Robert de Belesme, about the year 1100, Bridgnorth Castle +has experienced a chequered and eventful career. Scarcely was the fabric +completed, when the rebellious Earl was besieged by Henry I., who, +having made himself master of the stronghold, converted it into a royal +residence. + +Later on came the Second Henry, with Thomas à Beket in his train, and, +while investing the castle, had a narrow escape of losing his life by an +arrow shot from the wall. In the fourth year of his reign, Henry II. +granted to the town its first Royal charter, which has been renewed and +amplified by several subsequent sovereigns. + +The Castle having been strengthened, and put into a state of defence +against 'that great magician, damnable Glendower,' the armies of Henry +IV. assembled at Bridgnorth on the eve of the Battle of Shrewsbury, as +is recorded in Shakespeare's lines: + + 'On Thursday we ourselves will march; our meeting + Is Bridgenorth: and, Harry, you shall march + Through Gloucestershire; by which account, + Our business valued, some twelve days hence + Our general forces at Bridgenorth shall meet.' + +After a period of comparative tranquillity, Bridgnorth and its castle +became involved in the great struggle between Royalist and Roundhead; +when the old town showed itself trusty to the core, and true to its +loyal motto, FIDELITAS . URBIS . SALUS . REGIS. King Charles I. +honoured the borough with several visits; and his rival, the +'arch-Rebell,' was within an ace of being picked off by a marksman upon +the castle walls, while riding near to view the defences of the town. + +After a stubborn siege, Bridgnorth finally passed into the hands of the +Parliamentarian forces, on March 31, 1646. Taking warning by the tough +resistance they had encountered, the Roundheads did their best to render +further resistance impossible by dismantling and demolishing the castle; +and how effectually they succeeded in doing so is attested by the +battered fragment we see before us. + +Says Leland, chronicling the results of his observations: 'This Castle +standeth on the south Part of the Towne, and is fortified by East with +the profound Valley, instead of a Ditch. The Walles of it be of a great +Height. There were two or three strong Wardes in the castle, that nowe +goe totally to ruine. I count the Castle to be more in Compasse than the +third part of the Towne. There is one mighty gate by north in it, now +stopped up; and a little Posterne made of force thereby through the +wall, to enter into the castle. The castle ground, and especially the +base-court, hath now many dwellinge Houses of tymbre in it, newly +erected.' + +From the adjacent gardens, we obtain an excellent survey of Bridgnorth +and its pleasant environs; a land of smiling meadows, groves and +orchards, encompassed by gently undulating hills: + + 'Such an up-and-down + Of verdure, nothing too much up nor down. + A ripple of land, such little hills the sky + Can stoop to tenderly, and the wheat-fields climb.' + +Yonder is Pampudding Hill, the site of a castle built by Ethelfleda, +daughter of Alfred the Great, well-nigh a thousand years ago. Beyond it +lies the hamlet of Oldbury, the 'Old-Borough'; a place which, as its +name suggests, is older than Bridgnorth itself. + +Then there is the winding Severn, spanned by its grey stone bridge; and +the ancient town clinging to its rocky hold, backed by ruddy heights +and feathery foliage where Apley Park closes in the view. + +So now let us push our explorations farther afield. Proceeding along the +terraced Castle Walk, we descend the Stoneway Steps, and, crossing the +bridge, pass the site of the defunct Hospital of St. John, founded in +the reign of Richard I. A little farther on we come to an old gabled +house standing in an elbow of the road, and known as Cann Hall. In +former times, Cann Hall was the town residence of the Apley family, and +upon one occasion Prince Rupert found here a hiding-place from his +enemies. + +Beyond Cann Hall we follow the Wolverhampton road, which, ascending +between high, rocky banks, brings us in a short half-mile to a point +where the low, red sandstone cliff has been fashioned into a number of +irregular chambers, known from time immemorial as The Hermitage. + +'In Morfe Forrest,' writes John Leland, 'King Athelston's Brother lead, +in a Rocke, for a tyme an Heremite's life.' Prince Ethelwald, who is +here referred to, was the first recorded tenant of this Hermitage, about +the middle of the tenth century. In 1335, Edmund de la Mare was +presented to the Hermitage of 'Athelardeston '; and, eleven years later, +Roger Burghton was 'presented to the Hermitage above the High Road near +Bridgenorth.' + +Time and neglect have played sad havoc with these singular grottoes, but +their main features are still in a measure discernible. The 'Chapel,' an +oblong chamber hewn in the living rock, is now partially open to the +sky, though the 'chancel,' with its rudimentary rounded arch, remains +intact; and there is a shallow, round-topped recess in the eastern wall, +where the reredos usually stands. + +Alongside the chapel we find the Hermitage proper, a low, dark cell, +communicating with it by a small aperture, now blocked by the large, +ungainly brick oven, which defaces the interior of the chapel. + +There is an apocryphal tale that a passage formerly existed, connecting +this Hermitage with Bridgnorth Castle; and that chests full of priceless +treasure lay hidden away somewhere amidst the recesses of the rocks; +but, needless to say, no treasure-trove has ever been brought to light. + +[Illustration: Cottage in the Rock, Bridgnorth.] + +A few paces distant stands a lowly cottage dwelling, which, excavated +like its neighbours from the solid rock, was until recently tenanted by +a family of modern troglodytes, and is still used in the daytime by the +good woman who has charge of the Hermitage. So let us glance within as +we pass. + +Upon entering we find ourselves in the living room, whose roof, walls +and floor, consist of the native sandstone; a warm, weatherproof +covering, though blotched and variegated with many a mottled stain. A +short step-ladder gives access to a small upper chamber, with seats +roughly cut in its rocky walls, and a window pierced through the outer +one. + +A few hundred paces beyond the cottage there is a large projecting rock, +which, for some reason unknown, goes by the name of the Queen's Parlour. + +Upon taking to the road once more we soon quit the highway, and, +following an unfrequented sandy lane, drop to a secluded nook where the +river Worf meanders past a small, ivy-clad water-wheel house, with the +green glades about Davenport House feathering the hill slope before us. + +Through the park we stroll onwards, amidst dappled sunshine and shadow; +the rabbits dashing to right and left as we crush through the +wholesome-scented bracken, and a nuthatch plying his sturdy beak (like +the lusty woodman he is) on the branch of a neighbouring elm. A glimpse +of Davenport House, a substantial eighteenth-century brick mansion, and +anon we descend the hill past an old circular dovecot, and enter +Worfield village. + +[Illustration: Worfield.] + +A pretty perspective of rustic dwellings, each with its narrow strip of +garden aglow with oldfashioned flowers, flanks the quiet thoroughfare +along which we take our way. This brings us to St. Peter's church, a +beautiful edifice whose tall, slender spire is seen soaring far aloft +above the cottage roofs as we draw near. + +Anent this church there is a legend which runs as follows. The old +monks, it seems, intended to erect their church on the top of the +neighbouring hill, so that its lofty steeple might be seen from afar, +pointing the way to heaven. But they had reckoned without their host, +for, built they never so fast each day, the old Enemy set to work at +night and removed every stone to the bottom of the hill, where the +church stands to this day. + +Be that as it may, we will now take a closer look at Worfield church. To +the right upon entering the churchyard appears an ancient, many-gabled +old manor-house, with timber-and-plaster walls, and chimney stacks +planted askew upon its stone-tiled roofs. Of its earlier history we can +say nothing, but in recent times the old place has been put into a state +of much needed repair, and converted to the uses of a parsonage house. + +Passing a great yew tree, shaped like an extinguisher, we have the +church full in view before us; a large fabric of warm red sandstone, +whose diverse styles of architecture lend variety to its appearance. At +the west end rises a fine tower of three stages, surmounted by the lofty +spire, which, some 200 feet in height, has scarce a rival in Shropshire. +Several good geometrical windows embellish the aisles, and a porch of +similar character projects upon the south. + +By this porch we now enter the church; not failing to notice the +exhortation, BEE . SURE . AS . YOU . REMEMBER . THE . POOR : 1683, +inscribed upon the wooden alms-box near at hand. Curiously enough, the +floor of the nave has a downward slope towards the chancel, thus +reversing the usual order of things. + +A tall, richly carved and traceried roodscreen, divides nave from +chancel, which has a plain sedilia and piscina. In the north aisle we +notice two admirable, canopied marble monuments, to the Bromleys, and a +fine old muniment chest covered with scrolly ironwork. + +In the thirteenth century, a certain Henry de Wengham, besides being +Rector of Worfield, Alveley, Kirkham and Preston, was Bishop of London, +Dean of St. Martin's, and ditto of Tettenhall; a notable instance of +pluralism. + +Two miles due north of Worfield lies the village of Badger, best known +for its celebrated Dingle, a deep, rocky, richly wooded ravine, down +which a small tributary makes its way to the Worf. In Badger church are +to be seen some well executed monuments to the Cheneys and the Brownes, +by Flaxman, Chantrey and others. Isaac Hawkins Browne was a poetaster of +some little celebrity in the last century. + +Beckbury, with its fine parish church, dedicated to St. Milburga, lies +away up the vale of Worf. From Badger we make our way to Chesterton, +where are the remains of a prehistoric encampment, half surrounded by +the Stretford brook. From these names, and other local circumstances, it +appears probable the Romans had a station hereabouts. There are traces, +in some neighbouring cottages, of what looks like a desecrated +fifteenth-century chapel. + +[Illustration: Ludstone. Shropshire.] + +Proceeding on our travels, we traverse Rudge Heath; and presently after +come to Ludstone, a stately old moated manor-house, built by one of the +Whitmores about the year 1607, probably on the site of an earlier house. + +It is a charming abode, well preserved, yet not over-restored; its +Jacobean gables and balconies wreathed in ivy and Virginian creeper; and +its antique, pleasantly formal gardens encircled by the moat, where +amidst the water-lilies we get an inverted replica of the old mansion. + +Passing near Danford, or Daneford,--a suggestive name--we descend a lane +hewn deep in the sandstone rock, cross a bridge over a stream, and so +win on to Claverley, 'quite a place,' as our American cousins say, and +the largest village in this part of the county. + +[Illustration: Claverley.] + +Midway along the street we come to the parish church, a spacious +sandstone structure of various periods, crowned by a tall embattled +tower. Unlike its neighbour at Worfield, Claverley church remains +entirely innocent of restoration, and, from the antiquarian point of +view, contrasts favourably with that somewhat spick-and-span edifice. + +Overlooking the churchyard, where the gravestones crowd 'thick as +Autumnal leaves in Vallombrosa,' rises the remarkably fine old +half-timbered house seen in profile in our sketch. This is doubtless the +subject of an ancient deed whereby, in 1659, one Richard Dovey +bequeathed certain tenements, 'over and adjoining to the churchyard +Gates,' on condition that a poor man be paid 'for waking sleepers in +church, and driving out Doggs during divine serviss.' The office has +lapsed; but whether on account of the rousing character of the sermons +in these latter days, history recordeth not. + +Close beside the churchyard path, we notice the broken fragments of an +ancient stone cross. This cross formerly stood in the centre of the +village, and probably dates from about the time of Edward III. It is +supposed to have been put up to commemorate the plague, called the Black +Death, in the fourteenth century. + +What with its lofty, whitewashed walls, its plastered ceilings and +high-backed box-pews, the interior of Claverley church recalls the +Groote-kerk of some Dutch provincial town; the resemblance being +heightened by the peculiar arrangement of the pews, which, turning their +backs upon the east-end, face towards the pulpit in the nave. + +This pulpit is, perhaps, the most striking object in the church. It is a +large structure of the 'three-decker' type, overhung by a great +sounding-board terminating in elaborate pinnacles. High overhead +stretches a fine oak-panelled roof, partially disguised beneath the +ubiquitous whitewash, and adorned with the royal arms. + +There are some quaint carvings upon the capitals of the pillars; the +Norman front is enriched with arcading and sculpture; and the curious +tracery of the chancel windows should by no means be overlooked. + +The south, or Gatacre, chapel, contains a lordly alabaster tomb, with +effigies of Sir Robert Broke and his two wives. A native of Claverley, +Sir Robert was Speaker of the Commons, and Lord Chief Justice of Common +Pleas under Queen Mary; departing this life in the first year of Queen +Elizabeth's reign. Upon the adjacent wall there are two large marble +slabs, with quaint figures in 'graffito,' and inscriptions to the +Gatacres bearing dates in the sixteenth century. + +But the waning daylight warns us to depart. So, setting our faces +westwards, we bowl along between the dusky hedgerows, until we strike +the main road near a place called the 'Wheel of Worvell.' Here we linger +awhile at the open door of the smithy, whose ruddy gleam of firelight, +dancing sparks, and cheerful noise of hammering, attract one +irresistibly, awakening some slumbering instinct of the primæval man. + +Then putting on the best pace, we spin away along an up-and-down, +switchback sort of road, re-cross the bridge over the Severn, and, +availing ourselves of the 'Lilt,' or Castle Hill Railway, we ascend +swiftly and smoothly to our night's quarters in the 'Faithful' town. + +This time-honoured Borough of Bridgnorth boasts a number of ancient +charters, the earliest of which is the charter of incorporation granted +by King Henry II. in 1157. The handsome regalia comprises a pair of +silver-gilt maces, a marshall's staff, and a corporate seal; and, last +but not least, a modern Mayoral chain bearing the names of the Mayors, +the Borough Arms, and the Town motto, FIDELITAS . URBIS . SALUS . REGIS. + + * * * * * + +A row up the Severn to Apley Park, one of the pleasantest excursions in +this locality, introduces the visitor in a leisurely fashion to the +green, placid landscapes, characteristic of 'gentle Severn's sedgy +banks.' + +Drawing clear of the town, we get a good rearward view of Bridgnorth, +perched on its rocky eyrie; and then we pass beneath Pendlestone Rock, +whose towering crags are draped in luxuriant foliage down to the water's +edge. Hoard's Park and Severn Hall, two ancient timbered houses, are +presently left behind, though not in sight from the river; and then, +skirting the demesne of Stanley, we come by-and-by to a landing-place at +a cool, shady nook, on the eastern bank of the Severn. + +Winding upwards through the woods, the steep path lands the wayfarer at +a spot where a queer little cottage, excavated in the rock, gives upon a +kind of platform, whence one may enjoy a widespreading view over hill +and dale and winding river. + +Another short climb brings us to Apley Terrace, a charming sylvan drive, +which, traversing the crest of a richly timbered upland, introduces one +to a changing panorama of almost unrivalled loveliness. If 'to see is to +possess,' as Beranger affirms, we have here indeed acquired a goodly +heritage. Far beneath our feet, the Severn winds through the vale in a +long, silvery reach, embracing the rich rolling woodlands and smooth, +green, grassy glades of Apley Park; a worthy setting to the old grey +mansion, seated so serenely in its midst. Away and beyond spreads a mazy +landscape, chequered with cornfields and woodlands, all mellowed by the +touch of Autumn; while our old friends, the Wrekin and the twin-crested +Clees, look over the shoulders of their lowlier brethren. Nor is this +all, for, by turning across the drive, we get a peep at the Malvern +Hills; and Clent and Lickey are seen, rising clear and distinct against +the mirky haze that overhangs the Black Country. + +In Henry the Third's time, the Manor of Apley was held by a family +owning the euphonious name of Huggeford; passing subsequently by +marriage to Sir Thomas Lucy, of Charlecote, in Warwickshire. By him the +estate was sold, in 1551, to one of the Whitmores of Aston, Claverley, +an influential family, who remained masters of Apley during some three +centuries or more. For 238 years, it is said, the Whitmores represented +the Borough of Bridgnorth in Parliament; a circumstance which gave rise +to the well-known local adage, 'like Bridgnorth election, all on one +side.' + +From the Terrace, here, as we look towards the east, a large farmhouse +is seen, standing by itself amidst a grove of trees. This is Ewdness, a +fine old brick-and-stone, oak panelled residence of the Tudor period, +deriving its name from the ancient family of d'Eudinas, mentioned in +Domesday Chronicle. Walter d'Eudinas, in 1221, held the estate direct +from the King. Long afterwards it passed into the hands of a Mr. +Fletcher, by whom the existing mansion was erected. Fletcher's daughter +espoused Colonel Berkeley, sometime M.P. for Shrewsbury, who commanded a +troop of horse in the Parliamentary wars. Ewdness now forms part of the +Apley estate. + +Near Ewdness lived, once upon a time, a damsel named Sally Hoggins, +daughter of a local market-gardener. Growing aweary of her patronymic, +Miss Hoggins played her matrimonial cards to such purpose, that she +lived to style herself Sarah, Marchioness of Exeter. + +Beyond Ewdness lies Stockton village, with its interesting Norman +church, dedicated to St. Chad. Half-a-mile farther on, on the Shiffnal +road, is the hamlet of Norton, where, opposite the Hundred House Inn, +beneath a big elm tree, stand the ancient stocks and whipping-post, +which our artist has drawn for us at the end of the present chapter. In +Edward the Third's reign, it will be remembered, the Commons petitioned +the King to establish stocks in every village in the realm. + +Taking a giant's-stride across the Severn, we come to Astley Abbots, a +secluded village composed of about half a score cottages, and pleasant, +rural residences of the gentry-folk. + +St. Calixtus's church, rising a short distance west of the village, is +our next objective; an unobtrusive edifice, topped by a small wooden +steeple above its western gable. Founded in 1138, it is of the Norman +and Decorated styles, and has been reasonably renovated in modern times. +The chancel, rebuilt in 1633, has a little painted glass in its eastern +window; and the Norman font and richly carved Jacobean pulpit are worth +a passing glance. Suspended in a corner of the north aisle we notice a +'Lover's Garland,' a memorial to Hanna Phillips, of this parish, who +died on the eve of wedlock in 1707. + +[Illustration: Dunvall.] + +Upon leaving the church, a meadow path soon brings us to Dunvall, a +remarkable old timbered mansion of the Elizabethan era. Its massive oak +beams display great variety of treatment, and are entirely guiltless of +ironwork, being joined together by long wooden pegs; while many of them +are scored on the surface with curious lines and hatchings, private +marks of the craftsmen who fashioned them, perhaps. + +The hall with its open staircase, oak panelling and wide, lattice-paned +windows, has a delightfully old-world appearance, and probably remains +much as originally built. + +Dunvall formerly belonged to a branch of the Acton family, in whose days +the old house boasted a library of rare and curious volumes, including +a 'Breeches' Bible, dated 1582. But the Actons have long since departed, +their relics and curios have been dispersed, and the place thereof +knoweth them no more. + +So now, having done with Dunvall, we take our departure in a +south-westerly direction; faring along, up-hill and down-dale, amidst +green meadows and golden wheat-fields, where the labourers are plying +their peaceful, rural toil; while the clack! clack! of the +'reaper-and-binder' sounds merrily through the still air. + +Emerging from labyrinthine lanes, we strike the Wenlock road three miles +from Bridgnorth, and march on thence into the village of Morville. +Calling in at the clerk's cottage for the key of the church--a key of +Brobdingnagian size--we push on past the pretty, rustic post-office, and +the village smithy; and then, espying the old grey church and Hall away +in the vale to our left, we climb over a stile, and make our way +thitherwards. + +St. Gregory's church at Morville is an interesting edifice of great +antiquity, though no part of the earlier structure, which stood here in +Edward the Confessor's days, is now in existence. Dating from the early +years of the twelfth century, the present church constituted a cell +subject to Shrewsbury Abbey; and our cherished and most respectable +Leland did not fail to take note of the place, as he journeyed by from +Wenlock to Bridgnorth, describing it as 'a little priory, or cell, at +Morfeilde, on the right hand as I entered the village.' + +Morville church has the long chancel usually seen in collegiate +foundations, the semi-headed chancel arch being curiously depressed, and +having rudely sculptured capitals, and billet mouldings. Large, very +quaintly carved wooden effigies of the four Evangelists, are fixed +against the wall just below the corbels of the nave roof; but they are +probably not now in their original positions. + +The large, cylindrical font is enriched with primitive, arcaded +ornamentation; and two very ancient oak muniment chests stand in the +adjacent aisle. In the course of repairs, some years ago, traces of +colour-decoration, or fresco, were detected under the whitewash on the +south wall. + +Upon regaining the highroad we pass the Acton Arms, a well-to-do-looking +wayside hostelry. Then Morville Hall comes in sight, a grey stone +mansion with projecting wings, occupying the site of the ancient priory, +whose last Prior, Richard Marshall, died in 1558. + +[Illustration: Tympanum at Aston Eyres.] + +En route to Aston Eyres, the tall trees of Aldenham avenue greet the eye +pleasantly, though the Hall itself is hidden. At this diminutive village +of Aston we find a church of proportionate scale, the only feature +whereof that need detain us being the remarkable sculptured panel shewn +in our sketch. It stands above the south door, and, protected by the +projecting porch, is still in an excellent state of preservation, though +evidently of very great antiquity. + +As may be seen, there is much quaint character about the several +figures, which are carved in high relief. In the centre we see the +Saviour, palm-branch in hand, riding into Jerusalem upon an ass, which +is followed by its colt; to the right a seated figure strews branches in +the way, while another man is in the act of casting his cloak upon the +ground. + +It is recorded that Robert Fitz Aer caused this church to be built, +between the years 1132 and 1148; and to his piety we are doubtless +indebted for this interesting piece of sculpture. + +Incorporated with some large farm buildings, on the north side of the +churchyard, we find considerable remains of the thirteenth-century +manor-house of the Fitz Aers; part of the great hall and the two-storied +domestic buildings, with a circular newel stairway, being traceable in +the fabric of a big stone barn. + +In the quiet country towards Wonlock, on the foothills of the Clees, lie +the sleepy hamlets of Monk Hopton and Acton Round; the latter boasting a +restored church, with tombs of the Acton family, and some remains of a +hall of Queen Anne's time, now turned into a farmhouse. + +Retracing our steps to Morville, we plunge into a hollow, sequestered +lane, and, after passing a rustic mill, and negotiating one or two +rather breakneck 'pitches,' we win onwards past Meadowley cover to the +brow of a steep, wooded ridge, whose base is washed by the Mor brook. + +Presently a little grey church and an old ruddy manor-house are seen, +keeping company among the trees that top the hill beyond the narrow vale +at our feet; and that is Upton Cressett. + +[Illustration: Upton Cressett.] + +We now bend our steps towards the church, which, rising amidst the +fields, a stone's-throw aside from the lane, seems part and parcel of +the tranquil landscape. Standing thus alone, enshrouded by trees, under +the lee of the sheltering hill, there is something pensive in the +attitude of this ancient house of prayer; as though the place were lost +in dreams of 'the days that are no more.' + +The westering sun, glinting through the trees, spreads the shadows broad +athwart the quiet green graveyard. The drowsy hum of insects pervades +the autumnal air, the homing rooks make a pleasant sound in the tall +elms beside the Hall, and the distant lowing of cattle comes faintly to +our ears. + +Upton Cressett church is an ancient, stone-built structure, surmounted +at its western end by a low, twelfth-century broach spire, a very good +and early example of that kind of steeple. The wide timbered porch, seen +in our sketch, encloses a fine Norman doorway of three orders, having +carved capitals and a semicircular arch ornamented with chevron +mouldings. + +Of similar but even richer character is the chancel arch, which consists +of four distinct orders, with traces of a fifth; a most unusual +elaboration for a remote village church such as this. + +The thick stone walls are pierced by small Norman and later windows, +the east window itself being curiously narrow, a mere lancet light. +There was evidently a north aisle at one time, its blocked arches being +visible outside the church. The font is of a peculiar shape, like an +urn, with slender, rounded arches incised upon it, and rude cable +mouldings. + +A door in the south wall of the chancel gives access to the Cressett +chapel, which has a high-pitched, open-timbered roof, and contains a +seventeenth-century oak communion table. Traces of faded frescoes are +visible upon the wall; into which is let a small brass, dated 1640, in +memory of Richard Cressett, a member of the distinguished family which +in bygone times lived in the adjacent Hall. + +As 'Ultone,' Upton Cressett figures in Domesday Survey. In 1165, Upton +formed part of the Barony of Fitz Alan, being held for some generations +by the descendants of Alan de Upton. The Cressetts first appear as Lords +of Upton towards the close of the fourteenth century, when, the male +line of the Uptons becoming extinct, Thomas Cressett succeeded to Upton, +and gave his name to the place. Richard Cressett, builder of the +existing house, held the honourable office of Sheriff of Shropshire, as +did many of his descendants in after years. + +[Illustration: Upton Cressett Hall.] + +Let us now stroll across to the Hall. As indicated upon a panel let into +the wall, the house was erected in the year 1580, and the fine chimney +stacks and diapered gables which figure in our sketch date from about +that period. Viewed from the north-east, its chequered gables, bronzed, +lichen-clad roofs, and wrinkled chimneys, rise with charming effect +against the dappled blue of the sky. + +Internally the house has been much modernized, but some of the older +chambers are nicely wainscoted; and the 'chapel room' upstairs is +divided by the great beams of the roof into bays, with arched braces and +a sort of embattled cornice, all as massive and simple as possible. + +Beyond a green courtyard rises the Gatehouse, a curious little building +with ivied gables and quaint angle turrets, apparently coeval with the +mansion, and, like it, constructed of fine, timeworn brickwork, of a +pleasant mellow hue. The gateway passage shews remnants of antique +gothic lettering, now illegible from decay. A stairway in one of the +turrets leads to several small chambers, in one of which Prince Rupert +is said to have slept. Some fine though damaged plasterwork in this room +displays the usual Tudor emblems, and the word . IESV . upon a heart, +all delicately executed. + +The course of the moat, the ancient well, and the site of the drawbridge +can still be identified, a gigantic oak tree marking the outlet of the +former. There is said to have been, in the olden times, a subterranean +passage running from here to Holgate Castle, in Corve Dale; but, as that +is six miles distant as the crow flies, the tradition must be accepted +cum grano salis. + +Bidding farewell to Upton Cressett, we work a course back to Bridgnorth +by a different route. This leads us near to The Hay, a place where, +long, long ago, the Lady Juliana de Kenley owned certain lands, which, +as is recorded, she disposed of for the moderate rental of one pair of +white gloves, value one halfpenny, 'in lieu of all suit of Court and +Halimot.' + +Once more we pace the now familiar 'petrified kidneys' of the old +Severn-side town, and so come at last to our nocturnal lodging place. +Turning in for the night, we quickly lose ourselves in the arms of +Morpheus, our day's adventures are finally 'rounded with a sleep'--and +the rest is silence. + +[Illustration: Stocks & Whipping Post at Stockton.] + + + + +BETWEEN SEVERN AND CLEE. + + +The morning mists hang white and chill about the ghostly landscape, like +a world rolled up in cotton wool, as, turning our backs upon Bridgnorth, +we hie away southwards adown the vale of Severn. The sun, robbed of his +rays, and wan as the moon herself, looks over the low hills of the +Staffordshire border; and a fleecy, mackerel sky, gives promise of a +likely day in store for folk who fare abroad. + +Descending the hill and crossing Severn bridge, we push onward at a good +round pace along Hospital Street, so named from the Leper House, or +Hospital, which in mediæval days occupied the site of yonder old brick +mansion, called St. James's, which now comes in sight among the trees +upon our left. + +A mile farther on, where the road bifurcates, we are within a measurable +distance of the Gallows Leasow, the site of another grim relic of feudal +times. Here, too, is Danesford; a name that carries us still farther +back into the past. + +Towards the close of the ninth century, the Danes, driven out of Essex +by King Alfred, sought refuge in this locality, and entrenched +themselves in the great Forest of Morf, which in those days covered all +this countryside. + +Presently as we travel along, Quatford church-tower is seen overlooking +a bend of the river. Quatford, the Cwth-Briege of the Saxon Chronicle, +is a very ancient place, the earliest records of which take us back to +King Alfred's days. + +In the year 896 the Danes, to quote an old chronicler, 'toke their way +towards Wales, and came to Quadruge, nere to the River of Severne, +where, upon the borders thereof, they buildid them a Castle.' Here, on +the spot overlooking the Severn still called the Danish Camp, they spent +the winter, 'not without dislike of their lodging, and cold +entertainment'; withdrawing eventually into East Anglia again. + +Towards the close of the eleventh century, Roger de Belesme began the +building of his 'New House and Borough,' mentioned in Domesday, which +probably occupied the site of the earlier Danish encampment. After the +death of Earl Roger, his son, Robert de Belesme, removed both castle and +Burgh to the spot where Bridgnorth now stands. 'At Quatford,' says John +Leland, 'yett appeare great Tokens of a Pyle, or Mannour Place, longing +that tyme to Robert de Belesme.' + +Occupying the summit of a rocky standstone knoll, Quatford church is +approached by a long flight of steps, leading up to the south porch. In +accordance with a romantic vow, the church was dedicated to St. Mary +Magdalene, as a memorial of and thank-offering for escape from +shipwreck, by Adeliza, wife of Earl Roger the Norman; and was +consecrated in the year 1086. The chancel arch and adjacent walls, built +of a peculiar porous stone called tufa, or travertin, quite different +from the rest of the structure, may possibly have formed part of that +ancient edifice. + +In a meadow near Hillhouse Farm, a quarter of a mile north-east of +Quatford church, we come to the 'Forest Oak,' a queer old stunted tree +which might be of almost any age, with its two short, gnarled stems, +supporting a head of wrinkled foliage. So let us give this venerable +weed the benefit of the doubt, by accepting the local tradition that +here, beneath its shade, the Countess Adeliza met Earl Roger her husband +after her perilous voyage, and prevailed upon him to erect the votive +church to St. Mary Magdalene, at Quatford. + +Away across the Severn, at Eardington, is (or was) a small farm called +The Moors; a place that gives rise to a quaint ceremony, performed every +year in London. On October 22, a proclamation is made in the Exchequer +as follows: 'Oyez! Oyez! Oyez! Tenants and occupiers of a piece of +waste ground called "The Moors," in the County of Salop, come forth and +do your service!' The tenants in question then proceed to do sergeantry +by cutting two faggots of wood, one with a hatchet, the other with a +bill-hook. + +The fons et origo of this curious feudal custom has long since been lost +in the mists of antiquity; but the earliest recorded instance of the +service was in the reign of King John, 1210. + +Bidding adieu to Quatford, we descend the hill, pass the 'Danery,' or +Deanery, Inn, and the site of Quatford bridge, and plod on between +hedgerows bejewelled with glistening dewdrops. The 'charm' of the birds, +to use the Shropshire phrase, no longer enlivens the byway; but a +solitary songster every now and again wakes the echoes of woodland or +coppice. Atalanta, yonder, taking heart of grace, suns her glossy wings +on a spray of the 'swete bramble floure'; while the rabbits, startled at +our approach, bob off to their burrows in the sandy bank. + +Dudmaston Hall is left away to our right, and anon we come to Quat, a +mite of a place whose name, derived from Coed, a wood, shews it once +stood within the bounds of Morf Forest. + +Some three miles to the eastward, close to the Staffordshire border, +stands Gatacre Hall, the ancestral home of the family of that ilk, which +has been settled here, it is said, ever since the reign of Edward the +Confessor. Major-General Sir W. Gatacre, one of the victors of Omdurman, +is a distinguished scion of this good old stock, having first seen the +light, if we are rightly informed, at Gatacre Hall. + +The existing mansion, a modern, red-brick edifice, seated in a beautiful +locality, has usurped the place of the original house, which must have +been unique of its kind, to judge from the following description. + +'It was built,' writes Camden, 'of a dark grey free stone, coated with a +thin greenish vitrified substance, about the thickness of a crown piece. +The hall was nearly an exact square, and most remarkably constructed. At +each corner, in the middle of each side, and in the centre, was an +immense oak tree, hewed nearly square, and without branches; set with +their heads on large stones laid about a foot deep in the ground, and +with their roots uppermost, which roots, with a few rafters, formed a +compleat arched roof. The floor was of oak boards three inches thick, +not sawed, but plainly chipped.' + +[Illustration: The Butter Cross. Alveley.] + +Beyond Hampton Load ferry we ascend a lane shewing evidences of having +been paved. Coming to a corner where four ways meet, we see, by the +laneside, the old stone Cross illustrated here; a monolith about 5 feet +in height, upon a circular stone base. On each side of the rounded head +a cross is faintly distinguishable; but, as a passer-by truly remarks, +'They've yacked un and yowed un, so as you canna very well make out what +it be all about.' + +When and why the cross was erected there is no record to shew, but it is +evidently of great antiquity, and probably was used as a meeting place +for holding a sort of open-air market. It is sometimes called the Butter +Cross, the lower stone being supposed to represent a cheese, and the +round head a pat of butter! + +A quarter of an hour's walk brings us to Alveley, a rather untidy +village, scattered higgledy-piggledy along a crooked roadway. St. Mary's +church, however, proves interesting enough to make amends for other +shortcomings. + +Many styles of architecture, from Norman to late Decorated, are +represented here. The Norman nave has clerestory windows, in one of +which we espy some good pre-Reformation glass; and a flattish oak roof +spans the whole. + +[Illustration: Alveley Church.] + +At the east end of the south aisle rises a beautiful fifteenth-century +chantry chapel, dedicated to St. Mary, upon the walls whereof +considerable remains of ancient frescoes are still discernible. They +appear to represent, the Fall: the Redemption of Man: the Annunciation: +and the Salutation; but, as they are all much worn and faded, this is +somewhat conjectural. + +Upon the wall of the adjacent aisle is a curious old altar-frontal, +which formerly belonged to St. Mary's chantry. It dates from about 1470, +and is wrought upon coloured silk, depicting the Church at rest in +Abraham's bosom. The figure of Abraham is admirably portrayed, his +countenance being of a decidedly Jewish cast; while the Church, in the +form of a group of diminutive figures, is seen snugly ensconced in a +sort of napkin, held between Abraham's outstretched hands. + +The west tower is early Norman, and in spite of late excrescences, is +probably the oldest part of the church. Nor must we omit to mention the +very ancient 'excommunication' door, now blocked, near the west end of +the north aisle. An inscription of some interest to the Freemason +fraternity appears upon the outer lintel of this doorway; to wit: ano . +domini . 1585 : IHON . DAAIS . FREEMASON : This fine church was well +restored by Blomfield, in 1878. + +From Alveley we make a detour to visit Pool Hall, which is interesting +mainly from its past associations, the present house being a somewhat +shabby, neglected-looking building of no great antiquity. 'Polehous' +first figures in history about the middle of the fourteenth century, +when we find it in the possession of Henry de la Pole. The Manor of +Alveley, in which Pool Hall is situated, formed one of the four manors +held by Algar, Earl of Mercia, before the Normans had penetrated into +this part of England. + +Retracing our steps to Alveley, we drop down to the ferry at Potter's +Load, a pleasant, sequestered spot, where the ferryman's picturesque +cottage is the only habitation in sight. A shady path, climbing steeply +up through the woods, soon brings us to Highley village. The place, as +its name suggests, stands at a considerable elevation, affording +frequent glimpses of the surrounding country, a hilly-and-daley region. + +Conspicuous at the top of the village rises its parish church, on the +south side whereof we find the interesting fragment of a Calvary cross +depicted in the sketch on p. 213. The broken shaft, which has +angle chamfers terminating in small heads, stands upon a massive base +edged with bold cable mouldings, and ornamented with sphinx-like faces +at the corners. On the west side of the base is the curious crocketed +niche seen in the cut; it may conjecturally have been used to display +the Paschal light at Easter-tide. The southern side has a hand and the +letters I . H . C cut upon it. + +The adjacent church, though ancient, is somewhat featureless; and the +Church-house, an antiquated structure of timber and plaster overlooking +the graveyard, seems quite the oldest residence in the village. + +Southward from Highley, the Severn itself forms for several miles the +Shropshire boundary, an outlying elbow of Staffordshire coming in upon +the east, and giving a curious local twist to the frontier hereabouts. + +Until comparatively recent times, there was an isolated cantle of +Shropshire lying derelict, so to speak, far away towards the east, upon +the confines of Worcester and Stafford. The quiet old townlet of +Halesowen, with its ruined Premonstratensian Abbey founded by King +John, was formerly included in Shropshire; as was also the curious +little chapel of St. Kenelm, on the slopes of the Clent Hills, and the +pleasant estate of the Leasowes, with its groves and pseudo-classic +ruined temples, in the taste of the last century, and its memories of +Shenstone the poet. + +But we digress, so now, revenons à nos moutons. + +Laying a south-westerly course from Highley, we set out anon for Kinlet +Hall, a place seated in a wild, secluded locality, on the borders of +Wyre Forest. Our way lies in the main through a country of low, tumbled +hills, thatched with woodland; one or two colliery chimneys, emitting +grimy smoke, seeming out of place amid these green, pastoral landscapes. + +After passing the vicarage we enter Kinlet Park, a tract of undulating +country about 500 acres in area, containing bosky dells and sylvan +glades, where flourish some of the finest oaks and beeches in the +county. + +[Illustration: Kinlet Hall.] + +The Hall and church soon come in sight, the former a fine, spacious +structure of brick, with stone quoins, built in the year 1729 by an +ancestor of the present proprietor; the original half-timbered mansion, +which stood nearer the church, having been pulled down at that time. + +Though lacking the picturesque variety of an earlier style, Kinlet Hall +impresses one by a certain serene dignity as it rises, four-square and +ruddy, and flanked by large arched gateways, from the smooth, +close-cropped greensward of the home-park; a worthy example of an +English country residence of the early Georgian period. Some good +ancestral portraits lend interest to the interior, including likenesses +of the builder of the existing mansion, and his lady. + +[Illustration: Kinlet.] + +At the time of the Norman Conquest, the estate of Kinlet appertained to +Editha, Edward the Confessor's widow, and in after years passed +successively to the houses of Cornewall and of Blount. The Blounts, as +Camden tells us, were 'an antient, illustrious, and numerous family in +these parts, who have extended their branches a great way, and who +certainly have their name from their yellow hair.' Kinlet eventually +came into the possession of the Baldwyns, a widely connected Shropshire +family, and is now the residence of Captain C. Baldwyn-Childe. + +Kinlet church, nestling in a grove of trees almost under the shadow of +the Hall, is a small but interesting cruciform structure. In the Blount +chapel we find monuments to various members of that family, as well as +to the Childes. The finest of these is a richly canopied table-tomb, +with the figures of Sir George Blount and his wife kneeling beneath +niches, a recumbent effigy in the arched vault below, and a quaint Latin +epitaph alongside. This knight was a distinguished soldier, and +sometime High Sheriff of Salop; he died in the year 1581. Against the +adjacent wall there is a curious representation of the Crucifixion, in +stone, and there are one or two sixteenth-century marble monuments in +the chancel. + +Some idea of the exterior of Kinlet church may be gathered from the +little sketch on the previous page, which shews the half-timbered +clerestory, the pretty gable-end of the Blount chapel, and a certain +small stone structure which rises in the churchyard. It is square on +plan, with an arched recess on each side, the one towards the west +having a shallow niche on the inner face. It appears to have been +surmounted by a cross, of which the base-stone may be seen upon the apex +of the roof. + +Dotted here and there about the valley of the Rea, as it comes down from +Brown Clee Hill, are a number of obscure villages and isolated hamlets, +which have remained as primitive, probably, as any in all broad +Shropshire. It is the country, par excellence, of stiff red clay, as the +oft-repeated name of 'Clee' plainly indicates; and its sunny barley +fields, its orchards and bosky woodlands, have given rise to the local +adage: + + 'Blest is the eye 'twixt Severn and Wye, + But thrice blessed he 'twixt Severn and Clee!' + +Ditton Priors, with its interesting old church, carved oak roodscreen, +stalls and lectern, lies under the shadow of Brown Clee, near the +head-waters of the Rea. Cleobury North, on the Ludlow road, had a church +subject to Brecon Priory as long ago as Henry the First's time. One or +two epitaphs in the graveyard here are worth a passing notice. + +Then we come to Burwarton, whose inn, the Boyne Arms, offers bed and +board for the wayfarer in a better style than one is wont to find in +this remote locality, where as a rule the traveller is fortunate who, +like the proverbial Scotsman, is 'contented wi' little, an' cantie wi' +mair.' + +Burwarton church is mainly of Norman date, having a plain, semi-headed +chancel arch of that period, and a little carved woodwork. Brown Clee +Hill, lying due west, may be easily climbed from here; and the view from +the top, described on a previous page, will well repay the scramble. + +A mile south-east is Aston Botterel, where, in the south aisle of the +church, may be seen an altar-tomb with pillared canopy to one of the +Botterels, who held the Manor of Aston of the Earls of Arundel. At the +Bold, hard by, are some slight remains of an ancient building, probably +a chapel. + +Proceeding on our way adown the vale, we come presently to Wheathill, a +place that in the Conqueror's time formed a portion of the vast estates +of Earl Roger de Montgomery. Wheathill church is of Norman origin, +having a fine south doorway with cable moulding, and tympanum with +axe-hewn ornamentation. The Hakets were the great folks here in olden +times, John Haket, Rector of 'Wheathull,' being mysteriously drowned in +the Teme, near Ludlow, in 1342. + +Some forty minutes later we find ourselves at Stottesdon; our way +thither leading by unfrequented lanes across the Rea brook. Here we +happen upon a church which, though restored about thirty years ago, +retains many points of interest to the antiquary. + +Stottesdon church has one of the finest Norman fonts in the county. It +is ornamented with an interlaced border, and other enrichments; and the +carvings of the west doorway are so rude and primitive, they might have +formed part of the earlier church known to have existed here in Saxon +times. The base of the tower is also possibly pre-Norman, while the +Wrickton chantry dates from the fourteenth century. + +In 1085, Roger de Montgomery gave Stottesdon church, with all its rich +endowments, to his great Abbey at Shrewsbury. When visiting Stottesdon +in the year 1290, so poor was this neighbourhood, that Bishop Swinfield +had to send all the way to Kidderminster market for provender, and for +shoes for his coach horses. + +Bestowed by the Conqueror upon Roger de Montgomery, the 'Marquis de +Carabas' of the Welsh border, Stottesdon manor became the caput, or +chief place, of one of the Shropshire Hundreds. Becoming forfeit to the +Crown, the King bestowed the manor, about 1159, on Godfrey de Gamages, +in which family it remained until the year 1230. Thereafter we find de +Plaesto and de Seagrave enrolled as over-lords of Stottesdon; claiming +free-warren, and holding free-courts, with all the rights and privileges +thereto attached. + +Pushing on towards Cleobury Mortimer through a rough, broken country, we +come by-and-by to a farmhouse called Walltown, occupying the site of a +Roman encampment, whose outer lines are still clearly traceable. In +Blakeway's time, the old road from Cleobury to Bridgnorth passed +directly through the centre of the camp, 'entering at the Prætorian, and +passing out at the Decuman Gate,' but its course has since been altered. + +Leaving Neen Savage in the vale upon our right, we cut off a corner by a +lane that drops steeply to the Rea; and after sighting the broken walls +of Lloyd's Paper-mill, looking like a ruined castle, we make our entry +into Cleobury Mortimer, with the tall, twisted spire of St. Mary's +church rising above the housetops, like a crooked, beckoning finger. + +So, while beating up for the 'Talbot,' let us call to mind a few facts +about the history of the town. 'The village of Clebyri,' to quote Leland +once again, 'standythe in the Rootes by est of Cle Hills, seven myles +from Ludlow, in the Way to Beaudeley.' At the time of Domesday Survey +'Claiberie' was held by Queen Editha, and in mediæval days formed, with +the circumjacent country, part of the great Honour of Mortimer. These +haughty Mortimers, indeed, ruled the roost for many a long day at +Cleobury; but their castle was destroyed during the Barons' Wars, and +the site alone, 'nighe the churche by Northe,' was to be seen in +Leland's time. + +Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, Queen Elizabeth's 'sweet Robin,' was +for a while the lord of Cleobury. In the 'Lives of the Dudleys' we read: +'He was a compleat Gentleman in all suitable employments; an exact +seaman, an excellent architect, mathematician, physician, chymist and +what not. He was a handsome, personable man, tall of stature, red +haired, and of an admirable comport; and above all noted for riding +the great horse for tilting, and for his being the first of all that +taught a dog to sit in order to catch partridges.' + +At Cleobury was born in the fourteenth century William Langland, the +'Poet of the Lollards.' About the year 1362, Langland composed those +'Visions of Piers Plowman,' which have caused their author to be +acknowledged as one of the earliest of England's songsters. + +So much, then, for the brave days of old. Cleobury Mortimer as we see it +to-day is a long, straggling, torpid townlet, whose agricultural +proclivities are chequered by the mining industries carried on around +Titterstone Clee Hill, and the woodcraft of the people who dwell in the +neighbouring Forest of Wyre. + +Having secured a night's billet at the Talbot Inn, we sally forth again +and proceed to spy out the land. Out in the High Street is seen a block +of timeworn sandstone, whereon, according to a credible tradition, young +Arthur Tudor's body was laid, he having died while travelling this way +from Ludlow Castle to Bewdley. + +A few yards farther on we come to the parish church, a noble old pile +dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, the central and dominant feature of +Cleobury town. Its graceful arches and elegant fenestration mark the +Early English period; though the tower, the oldest portion of the +fabric, dates back to Norman times. Far aloft soars the tall wooden +steeple, whose old warped timbers, stripped of their clumsy boarding, +are now being clad in a weatherproof garb of stout oak shingles. + +A large, handsome south porch gives access to the interior, where, inter +alia, we observe a remarkably shapely chancel arch, and some modern +stained glass in the east window, a memorial to William Langland, the +poet, who may be descried therein, dreaming over his 'visions' as he +reclines on a bank, with Malvern Hills away in the background. + +[Illustration: Cleobury-Mortimer, from the Wells.] + +A further ramble about the town introduces us to Cleobury College, a +handsome building in a pleasant situation, erected, as a tablet informs +us, by Sir Lacon W. Childe, of Kinlet, in 1740, and recently enlarged +and improved. Then, down in a hollow of the highway, we stumble across +the quaint view which our artist has here reproduced; the crooked church +steeple soaring heavenwards above a tall Scotch fir, while the +foreground is occupied by an arched grotto enclosing the crystal-clear, +perennial spring, called the Wells, whence the townsfolk draw their +unfailing supply of water. + +From Cleobury Mortimer we will make an excursion towards Bewdley; our +route, for a large part of the way, lying through the heart of Wyre +Forest. The forest is worth a visit, though nowadays the 'tall oaks' of +Camden's time are conspicuous by their absence, having long since been +cut down and carried off to smelt the iron ore of the Midlands, ere +'sea-coal' came into use. + + 'When soon the goodlie Wyre, that wonted was soe hie, + Her statelie top to reare, ashamed to behold + Her straighte and goodlie Woods unto the furnace sold; + And looking on herself, by her decay doth see + The miserie wherein her sister forests bee.' + +Covering a broken, dimpled country, with many quiet sylvan nooks +enlivened by streams and brooklets, Wyre Forest is still a pleasant, +wild, out-of-the-way district to ramble in; and is a favourite haunt of +birds, butterflies, beetles, moths, and similar 'small deer,' as many a +naturalist knows. The former extent and importance of the forest may be +gathered from the fact that the County of Worcester is named after it, +and that to this day it remains one of the largest tracts of woodland in +the Marches of Wales. Old, disused coalpits here and there, shew that +the coveted 'black diamonds' lie underfoot, though of a quality so poor +as scarce to repay the cost of winning--'thank goodness,' one is minded +to say. + +[Illustration: Dowles Manor House.] + +So by cross-country cuts and woodland ways we ramble through the forest, +until, just short of the Bewdley road, we get a pretty peep of Dowles +Manor-house, an ancient timbered dwelling seated in a dell, embosomed +amidst trees, and bearing the date 1560 cut upon one of its old black +beams. Then we come to Dowles church, a fifteenth-century building, +though it doesn't look it, having been encased in brick about a hundred +years ago. + +Strolling along the towing-path by Severn side, we presently catch sight +of + + 'Fair seated Bewdley, a delightful Towne, + Which Wyre's tall oaks with shady branches crown.' + +Situated on the western bank of the Severn, 'the Towne of Beaudley is +sett on the Syde of an Hill, so comely, a Man cannot wish to see a Towne +better,' as friend Leland remarks. 'At the Rising of the Sunne from +East,' he tells us, 'the whole Towne glittereth as it were of gould'; an +observation which shews that the famous antiquary had an eye for the +picturesque. + +Bewdley Bridge, an elegant stone structure, built by Telford about a +century ago in place of an older one, connects Bewdley itself with its +staid old neighbour Wribbenhall. 'To this bridge resort many flatt long +Vessells, to carry up and downe all manner of Marchandize,' writes +Leland; but the railways have driven the traffic from the river, so that +nowadays the merchants' stores and warehouses stand empty and idle +beside the silent highway. + +Time was when this ancient borough of Bewdley drove a thriving trade in +Welsh flannels, and other produce of the border; shipping her wares +down-stream to Bristol, or sending them away on pack-horses by +bridle-paths, such as the hollow way called the Welsh Gate that runs +below Ticknell hill. The old 'George' posting-house, with a handful of +substantial-looking houses, mostly of the Georgian era, lend a +respectable, well-to-do air to the town: but its parish church, at the +top of the main street, is unspeakably ugly; a red-brick abomination of +the true 'churchwarden' type. + +Bewdley has been a borough town ever since the days of Edward IV.; and, +until 1885, returned its own member to Parliament. A quarter of a mile +south of the town stands the old manor-house of Ticknell. + +'Bewdele, the Sanctuary Towne, hath hard by it the Kynge's Maner of +Tikile, stonding on a Hill.' At Ticknell was formerly held the famous +Court of the Marches: and hither, in 1502, the body of Prince Arthur was +brought, after his death while travelling from Ludlow. The earlier +house, mentioned by Leland, was destroyed by the Covenanters, but the +mansion now standing has some pretensions to antiquity. + +The Tenbury and Bewdley railway, as it traverses the valley of Dowles +brook, gives us some interesting glimpses of the Forest, whose russet +foliage glows resplendent in the level rays of this September sunshine. +After passing Cleobury station we run between steep, rocky banks, +fringed with broom, heather and bracken, getting every now and again +wide views of forest land overtopped by distant hills. Then Mawley Hall +is seen, an old-time abode of the Blounts; and running past a large +seventeenth-century brick-and-stone house called Reaside farm, we come +by-and-by to Neen Sollers, a quiet agricultural village with an ancient +cruciform church, whose old grey tower and spire are seen overtopping +the nearer trees. Thenceforward we travel on amidst tranquil, rural +landscapes, where the ruddy apples lie in piles about the orchards, and +the willow-fringed Teme winds along through the vale on her way to meet +Father Severn. + +Arrived at Tenbury station we quit the train, and, passing near the +Castle Tump, a grass-grown mound marking the approach to the ancient +ford, we traverse an old stone bridge and trudge on into Tenbury, a +pleasant little Worcestershire town on the banks of Teme, a famous +fishing river. The Swan Hotel at the entrance to the town looks the +picture of an angler's inn; so there we will rest awhile. + +[Illustration: Burford.] + +A meadow path by Temeside leads us towards Burford, of whose fine church +we presently obtain an effective view, its broad, richly embattled tower +grouping prettily, as shewn in our sketch, with a quaint churchyard +cross, and the feathery foliage of the surrounding trees. + +Burford church is of very ancient foundation, but has been much altered +at various times, and has recently undergone a thorough restoration by +Mr. Aston Webb, the well-known architect. There is much to interest the +ecclesiologist in this handsome, well-cared-for church; but chief among +its attractions is the wealth and variety of its monuments. + +A low table-tomb in the centre of the chancel bears the figure of Edmund +Cornwaylle, clad in plate armour, and wearing the gilded spurs of an +equitis aurati. Beneath a handsome ogee canopy in the adjacent wall +lies the effigy of a female, with the following inscription: HERE LYETH +THE BODY OF THE MOST NOBLE ELIZABETH, DAUGHTER OF JOHN OF GAUNT DUKE OF +LANCASTER, OWN SISTER TO KING HENRY IV., WIFE OF JOHN HOLLAND, EARL OF +HUNTINGTON, AND DUKE OF EXETER; AFTER MARRIED TO SIR JOHN CORNWALL, +KNIGHT OF THE GARTER. SHE DIED THE 4TH YEAR OF HENRY VI. AN DNI +MCCCCXXVI. + +A curious brass in the north-east corner of the chancel, bearing an +inscription in old Norman-French, commemorates Dame Elizabeth, wife of +Sir Elmon de Cornewaylle, a fourteenth-century knight. On the wall above +is a remarkable triptych, a memento of the Cornewall family, said to be +the work of one Melchior Salaboss, a foreign artist. + +There is a fine fifteenth-century font; and in the south chancel wall we +notice two curious little 'heart-shrines,' small circular receptacles +with lids, beneath a pointed arch. The custom was in early times, when a +nobleman died abroad, to embalm his heart, and send it home to be buried +amongst his kinsfolk; under the circumstances a convenient method of +sepulture. + +After the Mortimers, the Cornewalls ruled here for generations as Barons +of Burford, being under service to find five men to fight in Edward the +Third's Welsh wars. The Ledwyche Brook, flowing into the Teme near +Burford church, gives its name to Ledwyche farm, in bygone times the +home of the famous Benbows. + +Retracing our steps to Tenbury station, a two-mile walk brings us to +Boraston, scenes of rural industry enlivening the way. In yonder upland +field the harvesters are busy carting the wheat, the golden shocks +shewing up sharp and clear against the purple background of the Clee +Hills; while the wavering hum of a threshing-machine drones a homely +accompaniment. Then we descend into a vale, and trudge along the green +alleys of a hop-yard, the fragrant bines drooping beneath their wealth +of fruit and foliage, and clinging each to its neighbour with slender, +outstretched tendrils. + +Boraston comprises a handful of rustic dwellings, scattered about a +little church, one or two of the older ones displaying half-timbered +gables towards the road. Boraston church has been much restored, but +retains several early-cusped windows, and an old roof whose rafters are +carried half-way down the southward wall. On either side the nave is a +curious, plain, arched recess, the use whereof is not apparent; and +there are traces of a very ancient doorway, now built up. The apsidal +east end, a south porch, and a shingled bell-turret above the western +gable, are the most salient points of the exterior. + +Nash chapel, a mile or so to the north, is almost a replica of Boraston. +This church has been quaintly described by Mr. Cranage as, 'a +"Decorated" building which is _not decorated_.' Court-of-Hill is the +most interesting house in this locality. + +In the broken country west of Boraston lies the hamlet of Greete, with a +small, aisle-less church, dedicated to St. James, of Norman and Early +English date. The pleasant rural vicarage and oldfashioned Court-house +farm are almost its only neighbours, but about a mile to the west stands +Stoke House, a plain but good example of a brick-built Tudor residence. + +Very rustic and unsophisticated are the country folk hereabouts, even in +these fin-de-siecle days; and it is within living memory that Parson +J----, coming to take up his new duty in a neighbouring parish, walked +into the village driving his cow before him! Time was when some of these +country parsons were mighty hunters before the Lord. There is a story of +one of them who, when about to start for the meet, got wind that his +Bishop was coming to pay him a visitation. Jumping into bed, scarlet +jacket and all, he leaves word with his old housekeeper that he is ill +upstairs, and the tale is repeated to his lordship. 'Dear me, I'm very +sorry; tell him I'll walk up and see how he's getting on,' says the +Bishop. The message is duly delivered, whereupon our Nimrod sends back +his reply, 'No, no, it's quite impossible; I'm down with a shocking bad +attack of _scarlet_ fever!' + +The road ascends as we make our way northwards, with quarries and +lime-works defacing the heights that buttress Clee Hill on this side. +After a stiffish bit of collar work we come to Whitton Chapel, a +simple, solitary building, with a good though plain Norman south +doorway, and a primitive-looking old tower. + +A bowshot farther on we enter the demesne of Whitton Court, a charming, +seventeenth-century mansion, whose ruddy old brick gables, clustered +chimney stacks and mullioned windows, all wreathed in luxuriant ivy and +set against a background of autumnal foliage, make as pleasant a picture +as one could wish to see. Inside and out alike, this venerable abode is +a delight to the lover of things antique and curious, its owners having +displayed rare good taste in such renovations as have been found +needful. Though in the main of Elizabethan style, the oldest portions of +the house date back as early as the fourteenth century; and some richly +carved woodwork, some good pictures and curious old tapestry, are +features of the interior. An admirable sketch of Whitton Court appeared +in Mr. Oliver Baker's 'Ludlow Town and Neighbourhood.' + +Tinker's Hill is full in view towards the west as we push on for Hope +Bagot, its tree-begirt slopes crowned by the old British earthwork +called Caynham Camp, of which the Parliamentarians availed themselves +when besieging the town of Ludlow. In the vale below lies Caynham +church, an ancient but much restored edifice, which has a curious triple +chancel arch of rather unusual character. + +Ashford Bowdler, with its quaint old church overlooking the Teme, lies +but a few miles beyond, in a picturesque nook of the county adjacent to +the Herefordshire border. + +Hope Bagot itself stands high up in the world, looking out across the +pleasant vale of Teme from its 'hope,' or upland valley, among the +foothills of Titterstone Clee. So now we stroll on to the church, which +is seen a short distance away under the shoulder of Knowl Hill. + +It is an ancient place, and, with its grey stone walls and timbered +porch, falls in pleasingly with its rustic environment, tempting the +wayfarer to make a closer acquaintance. Many notable objects here meet +our gaze, a curious sedilia and piscina in the chancel, to reach which +we pass beneath a chancel arch evidently built by the Normans; and the +plain, bowl-shaped font is perhaps of equal antiquity, while the carving +upon the old oak pulpit calls for a passing notice. + +A great dark yew-tree flings its shadow athwart the graveyard, and +yonder is the Holy Well, famed in bygone times as a sovereign remedy for +curing sore eyes. + +But the day wears towards a close, and it behoves us to be up and away; +for it is a far cry yet to our night's bivouac at Cleobury Mortimer. + +So climbing the steep flank of Titterstone, we win our way to the high +road, 'high' indeed at this point, where we stand some 1,250 feet above +the sea. Far and wide extends the bounteous landscape, a maze of hill +and dale, tilth and pasturage; its remoter features veiled in the soft, +warm haze of an autumn afternoon, lending an added charm to everyday, +familiar objects. + +Swinging along downhill we pass Hopton Wafers, a high-lying village, +bowered in trees, beside a rill coming down from Clee. Anon the jolly +moon rolls up above the dusky breadths of Wyre Forest; children, +homeward-bound from blackberry gathering, give us a 'Good-evening' as +they pass; the night wind rustles the silvery willows beside the brook, +and a wandering owl raises his melancholy shout from somewhere in the +vicinity. + +And so beneath the frosty stars we enter old Cleobury again, and, +passing the substantial looking manor-house, come to a late meal at the +Talbot, just as the curfew bell in the steeple hard by tolls the 'knell +of parting day.' + +[Illustration: Ancient Cross at Highley.] + + + + +WESTWARD HO! TOWARDS THE WELSH BORDER. + + +Skirting the south-eastern suburbs of the County-town, the Minsterley +branch line carries us in a devious course beside the Meole Brook, +amidst quiet, rural scenery, calling for no particular notice. It is +worth while, however, to alight at Hanwood station, in order to take a +look at one or two ancient farmhouses that lie not far away. + +[Illustration: Moat Hall. Hanwood.] + +The finest of these is Moat Hall, a place which, though altered by +recent restorations, retains some interesting features. No less than +three very handsome old carved oak chimney-pieces are still to be seen, +the arms of the Beringtons being traceable among their ornamentation; +and the domestic chapel, used in bygone times by those of the 'old +faith,' retains its panelled dadoes and rich plaster ceiling. The place +was of course haunted; but the ghost, with a fine sense of propriety, +none too common amongst such gentry, has departed with a former owner of +the estate. + +At Hanwood we traverse a small local Black Country, where an outlier of +the Shropshire coalfield lies under foot, and where stumpy colliery +chimneys and whimsey-wheels deface the nearer landscape. But all this +soon gives place to the good open country, as the train approaches +Pontesbury station; and tall, cloud-capped hills begin to assert +themselves, in the direction whither we are bound. + +There is not much to detain the traveller here, for 'Ponsbyri,' as John +Leland has it, 'is but an uplandisch Tounlet, 4 miles from Shrewsbyri.' +The church, nevertheless, was originally a collegiate foundation, and +still boasts a fine, massive tower, besides one or two other good +features. Of the 'great Manor Place, or Castelle,' whose ruins Leland +saw 'on the south side of the Chirche Yarde,' not one stone now remains +upon another. To Pontesbury, some six centuries ago, came the famous +Bishop Swinfield; paying, as is recorded, the modest sum of one penny +for the ten-mile journey across the hills from Stretton, which may +stand, we take it, as a record fare even to this day. + +Be that as it may, we now pass on to Minsterley, the terminus of the +line; a place that, whatever attractions it may possess, can certainly +lay small claim to beauty. Even the Miners' Arms Inn, by its +bleak-looking, brick façade, belies the comfort to be found within; and +it is not until we come to the parish church that things take a turn for +the better. + +The little edifice is, perhaps, rather curious than beautiful. Built in +the seventeenth century, it has superseded an earlier church of great +but unknown antiquity, reputed to have been one of the most ancient +ecclesiastical foundations in Shropshire. + +Externally, the red-brick front presents a queer combination of skulls, +hour-glasses, scythes and cherubs' heads, wrought amidst the classic +entablature of the Jacobean portal; a good example of the bad style then +in vogue. There is not much else to detain us here, so let us look +within. + +The interior of Minsterley church is sober, plain and simple; but is +relieved from the commonplace by the rich, dark woodwork of its massive +oak pulpit and chancel screen, and the great sounding-board which +impends above the former. + +Suspended from wooden pegs, near the western end of the church, hang +some half-dozen Maiden Garlands, or Love Tokens, as they are sometimes +called. These curious objects are constructed of ribbons, bows and +rosettes, stretched upon a small bee-hive shaped framework. A Love Token +was intended to commemorate a betrothed lover who had remained faithful +during life, his or her fiancée having died during the time of +betrothal. There is, however, another version anent the use of these +Maiden Garlands. When a young damsel died, a girl of the same age as +the deceased walked at the head of the funeral procession, carrying a +Maiden Garland, with a pair of white gloves attached, as an emblem of +the purity of the departed. These Garlands at Minsterley bear various +dates in the last century, and are among the best preserved of their +kind. + +Quitting the village by the Bishop's Castle road, we espy upon our right +hand the half-timbered gables of Minsterley Hall, a modernized +manor-house of the Thynne family, now the property of the Marquess of +Bath. + +The hills close in as we advance, the road climbing their slopes by a +long, steady ascent. Away to the left rise some great refuse-heaps, +where lead has been mined at least as far back as the time of the Roman +Emperors; for in Shrewsbury Museum may be seen a large 'pig' of lead, +found in this neighbourhood, which bears the inscription IMP . HADRANI . +AUG. + +Pursuing the course of a wimpling brook, our road now leads through the +recesses of Hope Vale, a narrow dingle whose sides present an unbroken +expanse of greenwood, its verdure looking fresh and bright after the +passage of the recent rains, while the carol of many a feathered friend +enlivens our onward march. By-and-by this gives place to more open +scenery as we approach the Gravel Mine, which is believed to be of Roman +origin. + +Half a mile away behind the hills lies Shelve, a village given over to +mining; whence, by cross-country tracks, the Stiperstones may be +ascended. This remarkable range forms one of a series of roughly +parallel ridges, which traverse this portion of Shropshire in a +north-east to south-westerly direction. Huge, timeworn masses of quartz +rock, cropping out here and there upon the skyline, give to these hills +a strange, wild appearance; while such names as Devil's Chair, Nipstone +Rock, and the like, indicate their traditional origin. One story tells +how the Devil, rising up from his chair on the Stiperstones, and taking +a three-mile stride across Hope Vale, planted his foot upon the Lord's +Stone, a conspicuous rock on the hills to the westward, where, it is +said, his footprint may to this day be seen. + +Excelsior! is still the order of the day, on resuming our onward route, +and the landscape assumes a bleaker look as the road slants steadily +upwards. Marsh Pool, a small mere half choked by weeds, appears close at +hand below the fern-clad slopes of Stapeley Hill; while Corndon soars +aloft like a real mountain before us, dwarfing all his lesser +neighbours. At the crossways we bear away westwards, striking presently +into a rough, rambling cart-track, that leads up the unenclosed +hillside. + +[Illustration: Mitchells Fold.] + +Half a mile of this sort of thing brings us to Mitchell's Fold, which, +to compare small things with great, may be called the Stonehenge of +Shropshire. A dozen or more large slabs of stone are grouped into an +irregular circle, most of the stones having long since fallen down, +though three or four of them still remain upright, the tallest standing +about 6 feet above the ground. + +Tradition, the garrulous jade, has her own story to tell of how +Mitchell's Fold first came into existence. Once upon a time, it seems, +there was a great famine throughout all this countryside, so that the +good folk had much ado to 'keep the wolf from the door.' All they had to +live upon was the milk from a white fairy Cow, that, night and morning, +came to this spot to be milked. Thus everybody found plenty of milk, +provided no one drew more than a pailful. + +At length, however, came a wicked old witch, named Mitchell, who +proceeded to milk the good white cow into a riddle, or sieve, which she +carried in her hand, so that presently the cow ran dry. Discovering the +trick that had been played upon her, the cow became highly indignant, +and, kicking over the riddle, vanished from the scene, and was never met +with in these parts again. Indeed, it is said she turned crazy, and +going off into a far country, became transformed into the famous Dun Cow +slain by Guy, Earl of Warwick. As for the wicked old witch, she was +turned into one of these stones on the hill, and the other stones were +set around to keep her safely in; and so it comes to pass that the place +to this day bears the name of Mitchell's Fold. + +With regard to the beneficent fairy Cow, one is minded to conjecture in +what relation she stood to the wonderful Bull, whose exploits we heard +of when at Hyssington. That point, however, we respectfully leave for +antiquaries to decide, and now push on again for Chirbury. + +The west wind greets us lustily, as we tramp in the teeth of the breeze +across acres of heather and bracken; pausing now and then to scan the +wild moorland prospect, or to watch the gyrations of a brace of plovers, +as they circle overhead. + +Calling in for a draught of milk at the first farmhouse on the edge of +cultivation, we pass the time of day with the master, who gives us a +hearty Shropshire greeting. 'You be come to a desprit lonesome place,' +remarks our friend; 'and 'tis tedious work traipsin' about them beggarly +lands such weather as this; but step in and sit ye down, and my missus +'ool bring us summat to drink.' + +So down we sit in the roomy kitchen-place, surrounded by all the homely +gear of the goodwife's daily use; taking occasional pulls at Nature's +wholesome tipple from big blue china mugs, and discussing the affairs of +the countryside like men to the manner born. + +Once more afoot, we traverse a stretch of broken, intricate country, +and, surmounting a ridge of low hills, drop downwards into the lower +reaches of Marrington Dingle, a narrow, picturesque defile watered by +the Camlad, whose 'crankling nookes' we hope to explore later on. + +On the farther bank of the brook rises Heightley Hall, a mere farmhouse +now, though in bygone days it was the ancestral home of the Newtons, an +ancient family of more than local fame. The first to settle here, in +1501, was Sir Peter Newton, builder of the old Council House at Salop; +and ere the last scion died out, in 1681, the family had given many High +Sheriffs to Shropshire. Sir Isaac Newton, the great philosopher, was +connected with the Newtons of Heightley. + +The Hall itself has been much altered and modernized: but in the +terraced gardens, with their rows of old yew trees, a large fishpond, +and some remains of an ancient corn-mill down by the banks of the +Camlad, we seem to see traces of a better state of things. + +Peeping over the nearer tree-tops, the old grey timeworn tower of its +ancient Priory church announces our approach to Chirbury, a picturesque +village which can lay claim to a venerable past. Tradition avers that +the monastery which once stood here was founded early in the tenth +century by Ethelfleda, the 'Lady of the Mercians,' daughter of Alfred +the Great; to whom is also attributed the building of Chirbury Castle, +which stood at a spot known as 'King's Orchard,' on the outskirts of the +village. + +In the eleventh of Henry III., a Priory of Black Canons of St. +Augustine, established at Snead, a few years previously, by Robert de +Boulers, was removed to Chirbury, where it flourished until the +Dissolution. Bishop Swinfield twice visited Chirbury Priory in the year +1285, censuring the Prior upon the first occasion for laxity of +discipline. His strictures, we may suppose, had the desired effect; for +the Bishop subsequently found reason to commend the monks of Chirbury +for their almsgiving and piety. + +Born at Montgomery Castle in the year 1581, the celebrated Lord Herbert +of Chirbury spent much of his time at this place, whence he derived his +title. Lord Herbert was created first Baron Chirbury, one of the titles +still borne by the Earls of Powis. His literary achievements attracted +considerable notice in the reign of James I. + +So now let us turn our attention to St. Michael's church, which makes a +pleasant picture, its massive western tower soaring above a great yew +tree, and roses, ivy and creepers, wreathed about the headstones in the +foreground. + +The existing parish church is all that remains of the great Priory +church of the Austin Canons, 'Llanffynnon-wen,' the 'Church of the Fair +Spring,' to give it its poetical Celtic name. A runnel of pure water +still rises on the outskirts of the village; and some few years ago a +stone water-conduit was brought to light in a garden close to the +church. + +Though shorn of much of its ancient distinction, Chirbury church is by +no means devoid of interest. Owing to neglect and supineness in bygone +times, the fabric was fast falling to decay; but of late years the +venerable building has been put into a state of thorough repair, thanks +to the judicious care of the Rev. John Burd, the present vicar. + +The tower door, by which we enter, is surmounted by a small carved +figure representing the Virgin and Child. Upon the stone door-jamb are +several of those nicks, or scratches, we have puzzled over before--could +yonder old yew tree but speak, perchance it might explain that they were +caused by sharpening arrows, in the days when long-bows were fashioned +from its tough, sinewy limbs. + +The interior of Chirbury church is broad, spacious and lofty; for those +Austin Friars loved a roomy church to preach in. Owing to the +'spreading' of the roofs, the nave arcades and the walls above lean +considerably outwards, though the walls of the aisles are upright; and +there are many evidences that, for some reason or other, the present +church was 'run up' in a hurry. + +There was formerly a fine old roodscreen at Chirbury church; but it was +removed many years since to Montgomery. On the wall near the chancel +arch we notice a curious tablet to 'Ric Lloid, 1589,' with the Lloyd +arms, and a skull, or 'memento mori,' set in a deeply sunk circle. +Another small mural tablet displays a shield and the letters H. M., the +initials of Hugh Myddleton, the last Prior of Chirbury. The font, which +is large and extremely archaic-looking, was rescued some years ago from +a neighbouring garden, where it had long done duty as a water-trough! +From its close resemblance to certain ancient holy-water stoups, +recently exhibited at Shrewsbury, Mr. Burd, the vicar, considers this +font was originally the holy-water stoup of the earlier monastic church. + +There is a curious entry in the Parish Book, for the year of grace 1808, +which goes to shew it cost more in those days to pay for ale, to assuage +the Psalm Singers' thirst, than to defray the cost of their musical +instruction! Payment was made, in 1604, to provide 'a bell and cordes to +kepe the dogge out of the Churche, in tymes of divine service and +preachinge'--autre temps autre moeurs. + +Out in the churchyard, near the vestry door, lie the mortal remains of a +former vicar, his brother, and their two wives, whereof the united ages +amounted to 378 years, or the respectable average of over 94 years each. +A portion of a richly moulded pillar, or rather 'respond,' and some +beautiful thirteenth-century floor tiles in the porch of an adjacent +house, are remains of the old monkish church. + +[Illustration: Virgin & Child, Chirbury.] + +Some few years ago a small bronze matrix, representing the Virgin and +Child, was dug up by chance in Chirbury churchyard, and is now in the +possession of the vicar, by whose courtesy we are enabled to give a +sketch of a cast from it. The late Mr. Bloxam considered, from the +costume and the pose of the figure, that this interesting matrix dates +from about the latter part of the fourteenth, or the beginning of the +fifteenth century. It is of a kind very rare, if not unique, in this +country. + +In Chirbury vicarage is preserved a very valuable Library of Chained +Books, probably the most complete private collection of its kind in this +country: + + 'Antique Books--rare old Books-- + Gathered from many old corners and nooks!' + +The books, 207 in number, treat mainly of theological matters, and are +of various dates from 1530 to 1684; most of them retain the iron chains +and swivels by which they were fastened in the cabinet. They probably +formed part of the library established at Montgomery Castle by George +Herbert, the poet and divine; and were transferred to their present +resting place by the Rev. Edward Lewis, who, during nearly half of the +seventeenth century, was vicar of Chirbury. + +Being a man of strong Puritan leanings, Parson Lewis was badly treated +by the Royalists. One Sunday morning, when the vicar was in the act of +addressing his flock, a troop of horsemen rode into the church, haled +the good pastor out of his pulpit, and carried him prisoner to Captain +Corbet, who at the time was in command of the King's forces in that +locality. + +In the secluded rural district around Chirbury, the oldfashioned rustic +Stage Plays held their own until the early decades of the present +century, long after they had ceased elsewhere; and to this day one may +occasionally meet with an ancient greybeard, who in his salad days has +figured upon the boards. + +These performances generally took place close to some country inn, +which, while providing refreshment for the thirsty audience, formed a +sort of 'green-room' for the actors themselves. The play, in which two +male actors usually took part, was performed, to the scraping of a +fiddle, upon a stage improvised for the occasion, by placing some boards +upon a couple of farm-waggons borrowed for the purpose. + +The plays themselves appear to have been of a simple, not over-refined +character, interspersed with broad jokes and scraps of local badinage, +to suit the taste of the bucolic audience. 'Prince Mucidorus, or St. +George and the Fiery Dragon,' 'Rigs of the Times,' 'Valentine and +Orson,' and a piece entitled 'Doctor Forster,' were the favourites. The +hero of the latter is none other than our old acquaintance Faust, and it +was supposed to be only acted on the sly, being considered such a very +wicked play that something was sure to happen to put a stop to the +performance; and the arrival upon the stage of his Satanic Majesty was +regarded as the signal for an outbreak of thunder, lightning and hail, +if nothing worse. + +A mile or so out of Chirbury, in an undulating, well wooded park, on the +verge of Marrington Dingle, stands the ancient timbered mansion of +Marrington Hall, 'a very noble and sweete place,' as old Pepys would +have said. In early documents the name is Maritune, though it was always +known to the Welsh as 'Hafod-wen,' the 'Fair Summer Dwelling,' a name as +appropriate as pretty, for a more delightful situation for such an +'abode of ancient peace' it would be difficult to imagine. + +[Illustration: Ancient Sundial at Marrington.] + +Embosomed amidst ancestral oaks, under the lee of a range of high, +heather-clad hills, this old Elizabethan homestead faces out towards the +distant highlands of Montgomery, commanding a prospect of rare extent +and beauty. Near one corner of the mansion grows a hollow oak, of +enormous bulk and immemorial age, a veritable patriarch among his +fellows: while upon the adjacent lawn rises the Sundial shewn in our +sketch. + +This curious Sundial, one of the most remarkable of its kind in England, +consists of a stone monolith with chamfered edges set upon a large +square base, the whole structure being about 5 or 6 feet in height. The +figures 1595, cut upon the stone, mark the date of its erection; and +around the base runs the inscription: FOR . CHARITI . BID . ME . ADW . +WHO . WROUGHT . THIS . STONE . FOR . THE . TOMB . OF . R . LL. A queer +figure, carved upon one face of the pillar, may pass for a portrait of +Richard Lloyd, the founder; whose arms, with those of the Newtons and +other local families, appear upon the shaft. + +On the top of the pillar is fixed a sundial, or gnomon; while smaller +dials were inserted into every nook and cranny whither the sun's rays +could penetrate. Upon the shaft are inscribed various suitable mottoes: +THESE . SHADES . DO . FLEET . FROM . DAY . TO . DAY; AND . SO . THIS . +LIFE . PASSETH . AWAIE: DEUS . MIHI . LUX: FINIS . ITINERIS . +SEPULCHRUM: FUI . UT . ES; ERIS . UT . SUM: UT . HORA . SIC . VITA: +etc., besides many devices and emblems more or less appropriate to the +subject. + +In the reign of Henry III., the Manor of Marrington was presented by Sir +Robert de Boulers, founder of Chirbury Priory, to a kinsman, and was +held for many generations by that ancient family. Passing subsequently +to the Lloyds, a Welsh rhymester concocted for the occasion the +following curious couplet: + + 'Lle Bowdler mor ber ar bange, + Yw lle Dafydd Lloyd ifange.' + + 'Where Bowdler so long had spit and board, + Is now the place of young David Lloyd.' + +To vary the route, we will return to Chirbury by way of Marrington +Dingle. Here the Camlad has carved out for itself a deep, narrow gorge, +running in a due northerly direction; a famous place for wildflowers, +ferns and mosses, which flourish amain beneath the cool shade of the +overarching copses, draping with a mantle of luscious verdure the banks +of the winding stream. + +Tranquil and secluded as is the vale to-day, there are evidences that, +in the remote past, Marrington Dingle has proved a bone of contention to +successive races of men. Camps and earthworks are planted upon many a +salient corner and vantage point: and artificial tumuli abound upon the +neighbouring lands. + +Rhyd-y-Groes, on the ancient course of the Camlad, tells a different +tale; for here, there is reason to believe, the monks in mediæval times +stationed their processional cross, while the pilgrims passed through +the rippling shallows at Rhyd-y-Groes, the 'Ford of the Cross.' + +As we make our way thus towards Chirbury again through these quiet, +unfrequented byways, a restful calm, 'hushing the harboured winds,' +overspreads the pleasant landscape. The sun has taken his last look at +Chirbury, ere we re-enter the village and come to our night's lodging at +the Herbert Arms, beneath the shadow of St. Michael's old steeple. + + 'Fresh are the fields, and, like a bloom, they wear + This delicate evening.' + + * * * * * + +Proceeding northwards upon our travels from Chirbury, we cross the +Camlad, and, after joining the Newtown road, surmount a low watershed +and enter the valley of the Rea. Marton Pool, a good broad sheet of +water, comes in view upon the right; and then we pass near Binweston, a +diminutive township with an old, faded manor-house, encompassed by a dry +moat, and retaining a little oak panelling, but not much else to boast +of. Hampton Hall, the seventeenth-century brick mansion of the +Whitakers, lies farther away in the same direction. + +Grand cumulus clouds, marshalled along the horizon, threaten broken, +changeable weather; and a smartish shower now warns us to look out for +squalls. But 'for a morning rain leave not yr journey,' as wise old +George Herbert has it; so we plod steadily on in the brunt of the +breeze, prepared for whatever the Clerk of the Weather may see fit to +send our way. + +Ere long we come to Worthen, a village of which least said, perhaps, +soonest mended; for to our minds the place has little to recommend it. +The large parish church is the only building worthy of note, and its +attractions are soon exhausted. Worthen Hall, at the farther end of the +village, is an early eighteenth-century stuccoed house of unassuming +appearance. + +Thenceforward we travel along with low, tumbled hills upon our left, +while in the opposite quarter we look across the flat Rea valley to the +high, wild ridges of the Stiperstones, whose flanks, still shaggy with +woodland, formed a royal hunting forest under the Saxon kings. + +At Aston Rogers we take a glance at the Pound House, a rather +shabby-looking timbered cottage of late fifteenth-century date, with +remains of a circular moat; and anon we diverge from our route to visit +the site of Caurse Castle. + +A stiff climb through a tangle of brushwood brings us to the steep, +green mounds, whereon the castle stood, though but little of it remains +save a few fragments of rough, weedgrown masonry. So far as one can +gather therefrom, the building took the form of a parallelogram, which +adapted itself to the natural trend of the ridge, and appears to have +had a round-tower at each corner. At the highest point stood the keep; +and a well, supplied by the stream hard by, lay somewhere within the +enceinte. The position must have been a strong one, in days when +artillery was in its infancy; and it commanded the avenues of approach +in every direction. + +Caurse Castle was founded by Roger Fitz Corbet, one of William's Norman +knights, very soon after the Conquest; and, from its exposed situation, +must have formed a salient point in the series of border strongholds, +which the Normans drew around these Shropshire Marches. After having +been taken and burned by the Welsh, the castle was recaptured and +garrisoned for Henry II., in 1165. Long afterwards the place passed to +the Barons Stafford, and was eventually captured, and its defences +'slighted' by the Parliamentarians, in 1645. + +Away to the westward looms a wild, hilly, sparsely peopled region, known +in olden times as Caurseland. 'This Caurseland,' to use John Leland's +phrase, 'sumtyme longinge to the Duke of Buckyngham, crooketh +mervelously about the upper Parts of Shropeshire.' It still maintains +its isolated character, though the forest that once overspread this +portion of the county has long since ceased to exist. + +Leaving Caurse Castle behind us, we next bend our steps towards +Westbury, whose church, though of ancient origin, has been shockingly +modernized. In the churchyard there is a curious epitaph to one Edward +Gittins, a local blacksmith, who probably composed the effusion himself. + +[Illustration: Marche-Manor Farm.] + +Marche-manor Farm, the subject of the adjoining sketch, lies in a +secluded dell, not far from Westbury. It is an ancient place, with a +beautiful oak parlour lighted by long, low, lattice-paned windows; and +contains a richly carved and panelled mantelpiece. Staircase, floors, +rafters, all are of heart-of-oak; shewing how plentiful was the +'Shropshire weed' in the early days of the seventeenth century, when the +house was built. Marche-manor formed part of the great Barony of Caurse +Castle, and was held by the Fitz Corbets under Roger de Montgomery, the +Conqueror's vicegerent; but it is one of those places which are blessed +in not having a history. + +The trees and shrubberies, by which the old place is surrounded, set off +to great advantage its ancient timbered gables. A pretty lakelet close +at hand is a favourite haunt of wildfowl; and the soft fluting of coots +and waterhens, hunting among the reeds, makes a pleasant accompaniment +as we sit a-sketching here. + +Crossing the Welshpool road, as it traverses Wattlesborough +Heath--nowadays a heath no longer--we press on to Great Woolaston; whose +unpretentious, eighteenth-century chapel, otherwise not specially +attractive, contains one memorial of the past familiar to many +Salopians. + +[Illustration: Old Thomas Parr.] + +This is a certain brass plate, set into the wall, and bearing engraved +upon its surface the portrait here shewn, with the following +inscription: 'THE OLD, OLD, VERY OLD MAN, THOMAS PARR, was born at the +Glyn, in the Township of Winnington, within This Chapelry of Great +Willaston, and Parish of Alberbury, in the County of Salop, In the Year +of our Lord 1483. He lived in the Reigns of Ten Kings and Queens of +England (viz.), K. Edwd 4th, K. Edwd 5th, K. Richd 3rd, K. Hen. 7th, K. +Hen. 8th, K. Edwd 6th, Q. Mary, Q. Eliz., K. James 1st, and K. Chas 1st. +Died the 13th and was buryed in Westminster Abby on the 15th of +November, 1635; Aged 152 Years and 9 months.' + +Taylor, the 'Water Poet,' writing in the year 1635, in a work entitled +'The Olde, Olde, very Olde Man,' tells us Thomas Parr was an early +riser, sober and industrious, and thus describes his appearance when +advanced in years: + + 'Though old age his face with wrinkles fill, + Hee hath been handsome, and is comely still; + Well-faced, and though his Beard not oft corrected, + Yet neate it grows, not like a beard neglected.' + +All sorts of tales were current concerning this famous centenarian. It +is said that when the Cockneys, having heard of his renown, came to seek +for Old Parr to carry him before the King, they addressed themselves to +a very aged man whom they supposed to be Thomas Parr; and were not a +little astonished when he replied, 'Oh, it ain't me, Lor' bless yer, +it's my _father_ as you wants!' + +That unfortunate visit to London, indeed, seems to have undermined the +old man's constitution; and who knows but that, had he stayed snugly at +home in his native Shropshire, Thomas Parr might have been alive and +hearty to this day. + +Left a widower at the age of 122, our hero sought consolation in the +arms of a fair daughter of Wales. Yet three years later, we hear of this +ancient Lothario doing penance at Alberbury church, for having broken +his marriage vow in an intrigue with a certain frail maid named +Catherine Milton. + +As the story goes, when brought before Charles I., the King, +congratulating Thomas upon so long outrunning the allotted span, +demanded what else he had done to boast of. Old Parr, taken aback by the +question, could think of nothing better than his affair with Catherine +Milton; whereupon His Majesty exclaimed, 'Oh fie, Thomas, fie! can you +remember nothing but your vices?' + +[Illustration: Braggington Hall. Shropshire.] + +But to resume. Beyond Woolaston, in an outlying nook of the county, we +happen upon the fine old Jacobean mansion called Braggington. As may be +gathered from our sketch, it is a massive brick-and-stone edifice, with +mullioned windows and tall, steep gables, surmounted by stone finials. +From the recessed central bay projects the main portal, with its +weatherworn stone pillars, and architrave displaying the date 1674, and +oak, nail-studded door. Large, elaborately ornamented leaden +spout-heads, are seen on each side below the roof. A broad old oak +staircase, with massive newels bearing the device of some ancient +family, is the most prominent feature inside; the place having gone much +to decay, and being now used as a farmhouse. + +Out in the garden they are hiving the bees, and the beating of kettles +and frying-pans makes a quaint, odd, tinkling sound, like the strains of +a toy symphony, as we take our leave. + +From Braggington we ramble on to Coedway, and soon lose ourselves once +more among cool, leafy corners and crankling nooks, where Nature reigns +untended: + + 'Give to me the life I love, + Let the lave go by me, + Give the jolly heavens above, + And the byway nigh me.' + +Yonder a few miles away rise the Breidden Hills, 'brewing the weather, +like a Lapland witch,' and looking wonderfully mountainous for their +inches; with lights and shadows chasing each other athwart their wooded +flanks, and their summits wreathed in a cope of lowering storm cloud. +These hills, indeed, have a reputation to sustain in the matter of +meteorology, as their name Breith-him, 'Broken-weather,' obviously +indicates. + +Rising abruptly from Severn-side to a height of 1,324 feet, this +isolated range is a conspicuous landmark for many a mile around, keeping +watch and ward over the broad Vale of Shrewsbury, much as Gibraltar Rock +guards the entrance to the Mediterranean. An upthrow of volcanic rock +has here thrust the local strata aside, and by its intrusion has +produced the picturesque, broken scenery, found upon the flanks of the +range. + +Like most of these border heights, the Breidden Hills are crowned by +camps and ancient 'castells'; while some authorities have located the +scene of Caractacus's last battle amidst their rocky fastnesses. +Cefn-y-Castell, near Moel-y-Golia, the highest point of the range, is a +good example of an early British earthwork; and Bausley Hill, an eastern +spur, is the supposed site of a Roman station, in connection with the +ford across the Severn at the western foot of the Breiddens. Offa's Dyke +traverses the country in the same quarter. Rodney's Pillar, a memento of +that hero's naval victories, is a noticeable object from afar, crowning +the summit of an isolated peak. + +Just across the Welsh border, we find the Old Hand and Diamond Inn at +Coedway, a quiet little roadside house, near the junction of Severn and +Vyrnwy, whither fishermen resort for the sport on those well-known +waters. Mine host is himself an ardent devotee of 'the gentle art,' and +a guide and counsellor of no mean calibre in matters piscatorial. + +Close beside the Vyrnwy, a few miles hence, stands Melverley, about the +most un-come-at-able village in Shropshire; 'Melverley, God help us!' is +the local phrase, which sufficiently explains its own meaning. Yet they +say if you ask a native whence he hails, he will reply, 'Whoy from +Melverley, wheer else?' as though not to know Melverley argued oneself +unknown. + +Duly rested and refreshed we now set forth from Coedway, and, passing +the Prince's Oak, a memento of King George the Fourth, we follow a road +that gives us pretty peeps of Loton Park and its handsome red-brick +Hall, the residence of Sir Bryan Leighton, whose forbears have been +seated here since the Conqueror's time. + +Close under the lee of Loton Park nestles the diminutive village of +Alberbury, a quiet, old-world looking spot, innocent of any 'public;' +and where Her Majesty's postal affairs are conducted by the universal +provider who runs the one and only shop. But Alberbury church, the +subject of our next illustration, will well repay a visit. + +[Illustration: Alberbury Church. Shropshire.] + +It is a structure of many different dates, and has all the charm that +such variety lends. The Loton Chapel, seen in the front of the picture, +was built about the year 1340, its windows having the rather intricate +tracery in vogue about that time. Overhead we get a glimpse of the +tower, a work of earlier date, with its curious, steep, saddle-backed +roof, and primitive weather-vane. The east end of the chancel, the +oldest part of the church, is pure Norman work. + +An ancient churchyard cross with tall, slender shaft, backed by the +sombre verdure of some yew trees, adds a pleasing feature to the scene. + +The south aisle, used time out of mind as a chapel by the Leightons of +Loton Hall, has a richly ornamented open-timber roof, with cherubs' +heads cut upon the brackets that support it; and the massive old carved +oak benches, black with age, should not be overlooked. Quite out of the +common, also, are the windows already referred to, with their peculiar +geometrical tracery, and scraps of fourteenth-century glass. + +An ugly barrel-vaulted ceiling evidently disguises the original timbered +roof of the nave, one principal whereof is still visible at the west +end, with its big stone supporting corbels. The chancel is lighted by +two semi-headed windows, surmounted by a circular light, all of Norman +date; and some fine brasses and mural tablets, to the Leightons and the +Lysters, are seen here and there about the interior. + +'By Alberbyri Chirche,' notes Leland, 'appere the Ruines of Fulk Guarine +the noble Warriar's Castel.' The remains of this early, +thirteenth-century stronghold, rise a stone's throw south-westward from +the church; but they are so fragmentary and devoid of detail as to have +little attraction for the antiquary; indeed, one crumbling ivy-mantled +tourelle is about the sum-total of the fabric. + +Alberbury Priory, an establishment of Benedictine monks, founded by Fulk +FitzWarine early in the thirteenth century, is represented by a few +Gothic fragments in a farmhouse called White Abbey, close to the Severn, +a long mile north-east of the village. The principal remains are the +groined ceiling of the chapel, which springs from stone corbels, and has +curious carvings, at the intersections of the ribs, representing the +Agnus Dei, a monk's head, and an angel wrestling with the Evil One; and +one or two good pointed doorways in the lower story. The monastery was +suppressed in Henry the Sixth's reign, when the estate was granted to +All Souls' College, Oxford. + +Turning our backs upon the Severn, which here flows along in easy curves +between low, red, clayey banks, we now pass through a pair of tall iron +gates near Alberbury church, and make our way viâ Loton Deer Park to +Wattlesborough Castle. + +The walk across the Park introduces us to some picturesque bits of +woodland relieved by rough, rocky dingles, where old gnarled hawthorns +and hazel bushes thrive amain; while from the higher reaches of the Park +there is a varied prospect over the neighbouring countryside, half +English in its snug, cultivated lowlands, half Welsh where the shaggy +hills loom stern and wild. + +Arrived at Wattlesborough, our tramp is rewarded by the sight of the +curious old farmhouse shewn in the sketch over page. In the centre, +surrounded by buildings of no particular age, rises a low, massive, +quadrangular tower of good ashlar masonry, with the flat buttresses +characteristic of Norman work, and one or two windows of later date. + +This tower, with portions of a projecting wing, formed part of the +original Castle, and is very solidly constructed, the tower walls +measuring as much as 7 or 8 feet in thickness. A circular stone stairway +leads up to the several stages, some of the chambers retaining their +rude stone fireplaces, and other simple contrivances; while on the +topmost floor is a sort of closet, or prison-hole, and certain slanting +ledges on the wall indicating the position of an earlier and lower roof. + +There are said to have formerly been three other towers at +Wattlesborough Castle, but that they were pulled down to provide stones +for building the Loton Chapel, at Alberbury. Be that as it may, the +Castle certainly seems to have covered more ground at one time; and the +sites of two moats, a watch-tower and drawbridge, are pointed out in an +orchard on the western side of the farmhouse. + +[Illustration: Wattlesborough Castle.] + +Planted upon an outlying spur of the Breidden Hills, Wattlesborough must +have held a position of some strategic importance, controlling with +Alberbury Castle the passes of the Severn, and the road into Wales +between this and Caurse Castle. + +Of its history, so far as we are aware, there is little to be said. A +Fitz-Corbet held Wattlesborough under Roger de Montgomery, at the time +of Domesday Survey. In after years the Castle passed to the de la Poles, +and the de Burghs, coming eventually by marriage to the Leighton family, +whose property it remains to this day. Wattlesborough is reputed to be +one of the few estates which have never been bartered for 'filthy +lucre,' since the days when the Normans first lorded it over English +land. + +With shadows lengthening before us, we now set our faces towards +Shrewsbury. Half an hour's tramp brings us near Rowton Castle, the +Rutunium, as some assert, of Roman days. Then we catch a glimpse of +Cardeston Church away to the south, and presently pass under the viaduct +which carries the defunct Potteries line across the highway. Ford +village, whose church boasts a fine old roodscreen, is but a mile +distant towards the north, with Shrawardine castle-mound keeping it in +countenance on the farther bank of Severn. + +[Illustration: The Shelton Oak.] + +On past Dunthall and Onslow Hall, the erstwhile abode of the renowned +Mr. Speaker Onslow, we bowl along the dusty highway with homeward-bound +Salopians, until, some two miles short of our journey's end, we call a +halt to take a look at the Shelton Oak, one of the 'lions' of the +locality. + +Yonder it stands, a storm-rent relic of the immemorial past, holding its +own bravely yet ''gainst the tooth of time and razure of oblivion,' +though bereft of many a stalwart limb by the gales of a thousand +winters. + +This venerable tree still rears aloft its gaunt, grey, wrinkled +branches, lifeless now, save for some ragged foliage that yet clings +around the lower part of the trunk. The latter has become hollow inside, +where a sort of paved chamber affords standing-room for perhaps a dozen +people. + +As seen in our sketch, a sturdy prop, itself a fair-sized tree, serves +to buttress the old giant upon the side towards which he inclines. + +According to a time-honoured tradition, the Welsh Prince, Owen +Glendower, climbed up amidst the branches of the Shelton Oak, in order +to watch thence how the fortunes of war progressed during the famous +Battle of Shrewsbury: + + 'The bloody rout that gave + To Harry's brow a wreath--to Hotspur's heart a grave.' + +Soon after leaving the Shelton Oak, the towers and steeples of the +County-town put in an appearance ahead; here and there a country house +is seen, overlooking the Severn as it winds through the vale, and bricks +and mortar begin to usurp the place of trim green fields and hedgerows. +That red-brick mansion upon yonder bank is The Mount, birthplace of that +very distinguished Salopian, the late Charles Darwin. + +Anon we descend a hill, and enter the 'antient streete callyd +Fraunckarell this many a daye,' a transpontine suburb of Shrewsbury, +deriving its name from the fact that, in earlier days, its denizens were +exempted from payment of certain tolls levied upon their neighbours over +the water. + +Across the street rises a group of half-timbered houses, whose quaint +congeries of beetling gables, chequered beams, lattice-paned casements, +and dark, timeworn archways, make an old-world picture. More ancient +still, perhaps, is the long, low, two-storied house front a little +farther on; its massive old moulded cornices black with age, and curious +louvred lights in the upper story--a venerable specimen. + +[Illustration: A Maiden Garland from Minsterley.] + +And here at last is the Welsh Bridge, in Leland's time the 'greatest, +fayrest, and highest Bridge upon Severne Streame.' At that period, as +Leland tells us, the Bridge had 'six great Arches of stone, with a great +gate at one end of it to enter by into the Towne, and at the other end +towardes Wales a mighty stronge Towre, to prohibit Enimies to enter into +the bridge.' + +Old paintings and woodcuts shew it to have been an extremely picturesque +structure, with bold buttresses, and narrow, pointed arches; and a tall, +machicolated tower, with frowning gateway, portcullis, and mailed figure +of King Edward IV. keeping guard at the western end of the Bridge--a +subject worthy the brush of a James Holland, or a Samuel Prout. + + * * * * * + +So now, with our arrival at Shrewsbury, we have completed the circuit of +our Shropshire wanderings. The subject treated of is so wide, so varied, +and of such many-sided interest, that one can do little more than +scratch the ground, so to speak, within the compass of a volume such as +this. But we venture to hope that the perusal of these pages may lead +others to explore this pleasant land for themselves; and it only remains +for us to bid farewell to the gentle reader, by whose courtesy we have +rambled thus far together amidst the 'Nooks and Corners of Shropshire.' + +[Illustration: Shrewsbury.] + + + + +[Illustration: Shropshire.] + + + + +INDEX + + + A. + + Abbey Foregate, 5, 16 + Abcott, 89 + Abdon Burf, 123 + Acton Burnell, 28-30 + Acton Round, 190 + Acton Scott, 49, 50 + Alberbury, 231-233 + Albrighton, 167 + Alceston, 51 + Aldenham, 189 + All Stretton, 48 + Alveley, 197, 198 + Ancient Roads, 4, 27, 35, 42, 46, 52, 127, 148 + Apley Park, 185 + Arleston, 152 + Ashford Bowdler, 212 + Astley Abbots, 187 + Aston Botterel, 203 + Aston Eyres, 189 + Aston Rogers, 226 + Atcham, 149 + + + B. + + Badger, 181 + Barrow, 139 + Bausley Hill, 230 + Beatchcott, 48 + Beckbury, 182 + Beckjay Mill, 88 + Bedstone, 88 + Benthall, 140 + Bettws-y-Crwyn, 81-83 + Bewdley, 207, 208 + Billing's Ring, 46, 63 + Binweston, 225 + Bishop's Castle, 67-70 + Bitterley, 109-111 + Bitterley Cross, 110 + Boningale, 169 + Boraston, 210 + Borrow, George, 157 + Boscobel, 162-165 + Bourton, 133 + Braggington, 229 + Breidden Hills, 123, 230 + Brewood Forest, 162, 165 + Bridgnorth, 171-177, 185, 194 + Bridgnorth Castle, 176 + Brimstree Hill, 157 + Bringwood Chase, 92, 111 + Broadward Hall, 88 + Brockhurst Castle, 49 + Brocton, 131 + Bromfield, 91, 92 + Broncroft Castle, 119 + Broome, 91 + Broseley, 140 + Broughton, 71 + Brown Clee Hill, 122, 203 + Bucknall, 88 + Buildwas Abbey, 142, 143 + Burford, 209, 210 + Burwarton, 202 + Bury Ditches, 63, 72 + + + C. + + Caer Caradoc, 2, 40, 45, 86, 123 + Camlad River, 219, 224 + Cantlin Cross, 84 + Caractacus, 80, 86, 230 + Cardeston, 235 + Carding Mill Valley, 44 + Cardington, 39 + Caurse Castle, 226 + Caynham, 212 + Chatwall, 36 + Cheney Longville, 60 + Chirbury, 219, 225 + Church Preen, 36 + Church Stoke, 71 + Church Stretton, 42-44, 48 + Claverley, 183 + Clee Hills, 2, 108, 111, 122 + Cleobury Mortimer, 204-206 + Cleobury North, 202 + Clun, 72-78, 80, 85 + Clun Castle, 73 + Clun Forest, 2, 79 + Clungunford, 88 + Clun River, 3, 79 + Coedway, 231 + Condover, 23 + Corfield, 131 + Corfton, 115 + Corndon Hill, 217 + Corve Dale, 114, 117, 124, 127 + Corve River, 114, 119, 133 + Cound River, 3, 21 + Cox, David, 88, 157 + Coxwall Knoll, 87 + Craven Arms, 59 + Crawl Meadows, 93 + Cressage, 145, 146 + Crow Leasow, 111, 112 + Culmington, 114 + + + D. + + Danesford, 197 + Danford, 183 + Davenport House, 179 + Delbury, 115, 117 + Devil's Causeway, 35 + Dickens, Charles, 159 + Dinham, 93 + Ditton Priors, 202 + Dodmore, 108 + Donington, 168 + Donnington, 153 + Dowles, 206 + Downton Hall, 112 + Dudley, Earl of Leicester, 204 + Dunvall, 187 + + + E. + + Eardington, 195 + Easthope, 131, 132 + Eaton Constantine, 145 + Elsich, 115 + Ercal Hill, 150 + Ewdness, 186 + Eye Farm, 145 + Eyton, 146 + + + F. + + Farley Dingle, 141 + Ford, 235 + Forest Oak, Quatford, 195 + Forest of Brewood, 162, 165 + Forest of Clun, 79 + Forest of Morf, 194, 196 + Forest of Mount Gilbert, 150 + Forest of Shirlot, 141 + Forest of Siefton, 115 + Forest of Wyre, 2, 206, 208 + Forest, The Long, 126 + Frankwell, 5, 236, 237 + Frodesley, 34 + + + G. + + Gaer Ditches, 86 + Gaerstone Rock, 40 + Garn Gap, 87 + Gatacre Hall, 196 + Great Oxenbold, 131 + Great Woolaston, 228 + Greete, 211 + + + H. + + Halesowen, 199 + Halford Church, 52 + Hall-of-the-Forest, 85 + Hampton Hall, 225 + Hampton Load, 197 + Hanwood, 214 + Hay Gate, 149 + Heath Chapel, 121, 122 + Heath House, 88 + Heightley Hall, 219 + Hermitage at Bridgnorth, 178 + Highley, 199 + Holgate, 127-129 + Holloway Rocks, 87 + Honour of Clun, 72 + Honour of Tempseter, 81 + Hope Bagot, 212 + Hope Bowdler, 40 + Hope Vale, 216 + Hopton Castle, 90 + Hopton Heath, 88, 91 + Hopton Wafers, 213 + Hubbal Grange, 161 + Humphreston, 167 + Hyssington, 70 + + + I. + + Ippikin's Rock, 133 + Island Farm, 145 + + + J. + + Jeffreys, Judge, 6, 146 + Jerningham Arms, Shiffnal, 155 + Jessopp, Dr., 53 + Jocosa Burton, 149 + + + K. + + Kenley, 31 + Kinlet Church, 201 + Kinlet Hall, 200 + Kinlet Park, 200 + + + L. + + Langley, 114 + Langley Chapel, 32 + Langley Hall, 33 + Larden Hall, 131 + Lawley Hill, 46 + Lawley's Cross, 141 + Lea, 65, 66 + Ledwyche Brook, 3, 210 + Leebotwood, 46 + Lee Family, 34 + Leighton, 145 + Lilleshall, 153, 154 + Linley, 70 + Little Stretton, 48, 49 + Little Wenlock, 151 + Long Forest, 126 + Longmynd, 41, 44, 45, 60 + Longnor, 35 + Loton, 231 + Loton Deer Park, 233 + Ludford, 104 + Ludlow, 94-107 + Ludlow Castle, 95-98 + Ludlow, St. Lawrence's, 99-102 + Ludstone, 182 + Lutwyche Hall, 133 + Lydbury North, 63 + Lydham, 70 + Lythwood, 21 + + + M. + + Madeley Court, 143-145 + Mainstone, 71 + Major's Leap, 130, 134 + Malins Lee Chapel, 155 + Marche-Manor Farm, 227 + Marrington Dingle, 219, 224 + Marrington Hall, 223 + Marsh Brook, 49 + Marsh Pool, 217 + Marton Pool, 225 + Mawley Hall, 208 + Melverley, 231 + Middleton, 112 + Milburga, Legend of St., 113 + Millichope, 124-127 + Minsterley, 215 + Mitchell's Fold, 217 + Moat Hall, 214 + Monk Hopton, 190 + Moors, The, Ancient Custom, 195 + More, 70 + Morf, Forest of, 194, 196 + Mortimer's Cross, Battle of, 98 + Morville, 188 + Much Wenlock, 135-139 + Munslow, 117-119 + + + N. + + Narrow Dale, 65 + Nash Chapel, 211 + Neen Savage, 204 + Neen Sollers, 208 + Newcastle, 80, 85 + New Invention, 86 + Newton, 59 + Nordy Bank, 35, 122 + Norton, 186 + Norton Camp, 58 + + + O. + + Oak, The Shelton, 236 + Oakley Park, 92 + Offa's Dyke, 80, 85, 230 + Oldbury, 177 + Old Parr, 228 + Onibury, 91 + Onny River, 3, 52, 60, 91 + Onslow Hall, 236 + Ordericus Vitalis, 149 + Owen Glendower, 74, 176, 236 + Oxenbold, 131 + + + P. + + Parr, Old, 228 + Penderel, Joan, 164, 166 + Pepperhill, 170 + Pitchford, 24-26 + Pitch Well, 26 + Plash, 37 + Plowden Hall, 61, 62 + Pontesbury, 214 + Pool Hall, 198 + Portway, The, 46 + Potter's Load, 199 + Presthope, 134 + + + Q. + + Quat, 196 + Quatford, 194-196 + Quatford Oak, 195 + Quenny Brook, 49 + + + R. + + Radnor Forest, 85 + Ragleth Hill, 49 + Ratlinghope, 48 + Rea River, 3, 202, 225 + Redlake River, 86, 88 + Rhyd-y-Groes, 225 + Roman Roads, 127, 148, 204 + Romans in Shropshire, 3, 58, 127, 147, 216 + Rowton Castle, 235 + Royal Oak, Boscobel, 162 + Rushbury, 127 + + + S. + + Severn River, 2, 145, 185, 199, 233 + Sharpstones, 40 + Shelton Oak, 236 + Shelve, 216 + Shiffnal, 155, 156 + Shipton, 129, 130 + Shirlot Forest, 141 + Shrawardine, 236 + Shrewsbury, 4-20 + Shrewsbury Churches, 8, 9, 16, 19 + Shrewsbury School, 5 + Siefton Forest, 115 + Smallman Family, 130, 134 + Stage Plays, 222 + Stanton Lacy, 112, 113 + Stanton Long, 129 + Stapleton, 21-23 + Stiperstones, 123, 216, 226 + Stockton, 186 + Stokesay Castle, 53-57 + Stokesay Church, 57, 58 + Stottesdon, 203 + Stow, 87 + + + T. + + Teme River. 3, 79, 93, 94, 208 + Tempseter, Honour of, 81 + Tenbury, 209 + The Moors, Ancient Custom, 195 + Ticknell, 208 + Titterstone Clee Hill, 111, 124 + Tong, 157-161 + Tugford, 119, 120 + + + U. + + Upper Millichope, 124-127 + Uppington, 149 + Upton Cressett, 190-193 + Uriconium, 2, 146-148 + + + V. + + Vale Royal, 123 + Vernons of Stokesay, 56 + Vernons of Tong, 159, 161 + Victoria, Princess, 25 + Vitalis, Ordericus, 149 + Vyrnwy River, 231 + + + W. + + Walcot Park, 63 + Walltown, 204 + Watling Street, 27, 42, 52, 58, 148, 149 + Wattlesborough Castle, 233, 234 + Wattlesborough Heath, 228 + Wellington, 152 + Welsh Bridge, Shrewsbury, 4, 237 + Wenlock Edge, 2, 127, 131 + Wenlock, Little, 151 + Wenlock, Much, 134-139 + Wenlock Priory, 136-138 + Westbury, 226 + Wheathill, 203 + Whettleton, 58 + Whitcliff, 94, 97 + Whitcot, 80 + White Abbey, 233 + Whiteladies, 165, 166 + Whitton Court, 212 + Wilderhope, 130 + Willey Hall, 141 + Wistanstow, 51 + Withington, 149 + Womerton, 48 + Woolaston, Great, 228 + Woolstaston, 46, 47 + Worf River, 3, 156, 179 + Worfield, 179-181 + Worthen, 225 + Wrekin, The, 123, 150, 151 + Wroxeter, 146, 148 + Wyre Forest, 2, 206, 208 + +THE END. + + + + +[Illustration] + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Nooks and Corners of Shropshire, by +H. Thornhill Timmins + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40355 *** |