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diff --git a/40306-h/40306-h.htm b/40306-h/40306-h.htm index 3ab4cce..f27e3fd 100644 --- a/40306-h/40306-h.htm +++ b/40306-h/40306-h.htm @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> <html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> <title> The Project Gutenberg eBook of Nooks And Corners of Old Paris, by Georges Cain. @@ -111,46 +111,7 @@ table { </style> </head> <body> - - -<pre> - -Project Gutenberg's Nooks and Corners of Old Paris, by Georges Cain - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Nooks and Corners of Old Paris - -Author: Georges Cain - -Translator: Frederick Lawton - -Release Date: July 23, 2012 [EBook #40306] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOOKS AND CORNERS OF OLD PARIS *** - - - - -Produced by Annie R. McGuire. This book was produced from -scanned images of public domain material from the Internet -Archive. - - - - - - -</pre> - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40306 ***</div> <hr class="chap" /> <h1>NOOKS AND CORNERS</h1> @@ -200,7 +161,7 @@ SOUBISE MANSION—CLISSON TOWER<br /> <h4>TO</h4> -<h4>A. G. LENÔTRE</h4> +<h4>A. G. LENÔTRE</h4> <h4>IN TOKEN OF MOST SINCERE</h4> @@ -254,25 +215,25 @@ SOUBISE MANSION—CLISSON TOWER<br /> <tr><td align="right">23.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_026">The Pont Marie in 1886</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">24.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_027">The Isle of Saint-Louis</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">25.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_029">The College of Louis-le-Grand</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">26.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_030">The Inner Courtyard of the École Polytechnique</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_030">The Inner Courtyard of the École Polytechnique</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">27.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_031">The Rue Clovis in 1867</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">28.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_032">The Rue de la Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève in 1866</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">29.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_033">The Panthéon, in building</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">30.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_034">Procession in front of Sainte-Geneviève</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_032">The Rue de la Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève in 1866</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_033">The Panthéon, in building</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_034">Procession in front of Sainte-Geneviève</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">31.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_035">The Apotheosis of Jean-Jacques Rousseau</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">32.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_036">The Luxembourg, about 1790</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">33.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_037">Fraternal Suppers in the Sections of Paris</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">34.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_038">Fête given at the Luxembourg on the 20th of Frimaire, Anno VII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">35.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_039">The Rue de l'École de Médecine in 1866 (house where Marat was assassinated)</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">36.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_040">The Gallery of the Odéon (Rue Rotrou)</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">34.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_038">Fête given at the Luxembourg on the 20th of Frimaire, Anno VII.</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">35.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_039">The Rue de l'École de Médecine in 1866 (house where Marat was assassinated)</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">36.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_040">The Gallery of the Odéon (Rue Rotrou)</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">37.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_041">The Rohan Courtyard in 1901</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">38.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_042">The Rohan Courtyard in 1901 (second view)</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">39.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_043">The Rue Visconti</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">40.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_044">Alfred de Musset at 23 years of age</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">41.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_045">The Façade of the Institute</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">41.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_045">The Façade of the Institute</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">42.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_046">View from the Louvre Quay</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">43.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_047">Paris from the Pointe de la Cité</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">44.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_048">The Rue des Prêtres-Saint-Séverin in 1866</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">43.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_047">Paris from the Pointe de la Cité</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">44.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_048">The Rue des Prêtres-Saint-Séverin in 1866</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">45.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_049">The Passage des Patriarches</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">46.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_050">The Rue Mouffetard</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">47.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_051">The Rue Galande</a></td></tr> @@ -283,12 +244,12 @@ SOUBISE MANSION—CLISSON TOWER<br /> <tr><td align="right">52.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_056">The Jardin des Plantes—The Cedar of Lebanon and the Labyrinth</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">53.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_057">The Jardin des Plantes in the eighteenth century</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">54.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_058">The Jardin des Plantes—Cuvier's House</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">55.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_059">The Rue de Bièvre</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">56.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_060">The Bièvre Tanneries</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">57.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_061">The Bièvre about 1900—The Valence Mill-race</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">55.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_059">The Rue de Bièvre</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">56.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_060">The Bièvre Tanneries</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">57.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_061">The Bièvre about 1900—The Valence Mill-race</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">58.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_062">The Constantine Bridge and Stockade</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">59.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_063">The Pont-Royal in 1800</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">60.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_064">The Lesdiguières Mansion</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">60.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_064">The Lesdiguières Mansion</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">61.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_065">Commemorative Ball on the Ruins of the Bastille</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">62.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_066">The Sens Mansion about 1835</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">63.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_067">The Provost Hugues Aubryot's Mansion—Charlemagne's Courtyard and Passage in 1867</a></td></tr> @@ -302,20 +263,20 @@ SOUBISE MANSION—CLISSON TOWER<br /> <tr><td align="right">71.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_075">The Central Market foot-pavement, near the Church of Saint-Eustache, in 1867</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">72.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_076">The Central Market in 1828</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">73.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_077">The Central Market in 1822</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">74.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_078">Molière's House in the Rue de la Tonnellerie</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">74.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_078">Molière's House in the Rue de la Tonnellerie</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">75.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_079">The Tower of Saint-Jacques-la-Boucherie about 1848</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">76.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_080">Alexander's Grand Cafè Royal on the Temple Boulevard</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">76.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_080">Alexander's Grand Cafè Royal on the Temple Boulevard</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">77.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_081">Fanchon, the Hurdy-Gurdy player</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">78.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_082">View of the Ambigu-Comique on the Temple Boulevard</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">79.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_083">The Funambules Theatre on the Temple Boulevard</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">80.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_084">The Ambigu Theatre and Boulevard about 1830</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">81.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_085">The Porte Saint-Martin</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">82.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_086">The Rue Saint-Martin in 1866—The Green-Wood Tower</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">83.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_087">The Rue de Cléry</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">84.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_088">The Poissonnière Boulevard in 1834</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">83.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_087">The Rue de Cléry</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">84.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_088">The Poissonnière Boulevard in 1834</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">85.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_089">The Gymnase Theatre</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">86.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_090">The Variety Theatre about 1810</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">87.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_091">The Boulevards, the Hôtel de Salm, and Windmills of Montmartre</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">87.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_091">The Boulevards, the Hôtel de Salm, and Windmills of Montmartre</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">88.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_092">The Rue de la Barre at Montmartre</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">89.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_093">A Street in Montmartre</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">90.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_094">The Rue des Rosiers</a></td></tr> @@ -326,7 +287,7 @@ SOUBISE MANSION—CLISSON TOWER<br /> <tr><td align="right">95.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_099">Corner Pavilion of the Louis XV. Square about 1850</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">96.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_100">View in the Tuileries Gardens in 1808</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">97.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_101">The Rue Greuze in 1855</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">98.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_102">The Madrid Château</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">98.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_102">The Madrid Château</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">99.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_103">The Bagatelle Pavilion</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">100.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_104">A Performance at the Hippodrome under the Second Empire</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">101.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_105">The Arc de Triomphe about 1850</a></td></tr> @@ -341,7 +302,7 @@ SOUBISE MANSION—CLISSON TOWER<br /> <h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE">PREFACE</a></h2> -<p><i>Grandson and son of two rare and justly-renowned artists, P. J. Mène +<p><i>Grandson and son of two rare and justly-renowned artists, P. J. Mène and Auguste Cain, my excellent friend, Georges Cain, has abundantly shown that he is the worthy inheritor of their talent. To-day, he wishes to prove that he knows how "to handle the pen as well as the pencil" as @@ -436,8 +397,8 @@ the markets. A glance at the old plans of Paris will<span class="pagenum"><a nam that these unbuilt-on spaces comprised, under Louis XVI., the half, and, under Louis-Philippe, a third of the city's present area. In the Marais and Arsenal quarters, in the Saint-Antoine, Temple, and Popincourt -faubourgs, in the Courtille, the Chaussée d'Antin, the Porcherons, the -Roule quarters, in the Saint-Honoré faubourg, and along all the left +faubourgs, in the Courtille, the Chaussée d'Antin, the Porcherons, the +Roule quarters, in the Saint-Honoré faubourg, and along all the left bank of the river, which last was privileged in this respect, there were only scattered dwellings amidst orchards, kitchen-gardens, trellis-vineyards, farmyards, groves, and parks planted with century-old @@ -447,7 +408,7 @@ and, from the health and pleasure point of view, it is a great pity.</i></p> <p><i>From my window in the Rue d'Enfer, Estrapade Square, close to the blind alley of the Feuillantines, I used to cast my eyes, as far as I could see in every direction, over a wealth of foliage. In the Rue -Neuve-Saint-Étienne, from the place where Bernardin de Saint-Pierre once +Neuve-Saint-Étienne, from the place where Bernardin de Saint-Pierre once lived, I beheld the towers of Notre Dame, beyond avenues of trimmed trees; and I could say, like the good Monsieur Rollin, in the distich engraved on his door a few yards away:</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxi" id="Page_xxi">[Pg xxi]</a></span> Ruris et urbis incola, <i>that I @@ -456,7 +417,7 @@ gardens, through these silent streets so propitious to quiet labour, and scenting of lilacs and blossoming with pink and white chestnuts, new roads have been cut; the Saint-Germain and Saint-Michel Boulevards, the Rues de Rennes and Gay-Lussac, the Rue Monge which caused the demolition -of the rustic cottage where Pascal died in the Rue Saint-Étienne itself; +of the rustic cottage where Pascal died in the Rue Saint-Étienne itself; and the Rue Claude-Bernard which did away with the Feuillantines, where Victor Hugo, as a child, used to chase butterflies. Soon, the last of the monastic enclosures of the Saint-Jacques quarter, that of the @@ -478,7 +439,7 @@ of the Marais could then have done. During the midsummer heat, Paris was as full as in winter's cold; and the theatres reaped their most abundant harvest, especially popular ones like the Ambigu, the Porte-Saint-Martin, the Gaieti, the Cirque, the Folies-Dramatiques, the -Petit Lazary, Madame Saqui's, the Théâtre Historique, &c., which were +Petit Lazary, Madame Saqui's, the Théâtre Historique, &c., which were situated near together about the Temple Boulevard. The fine weather allowed people living at long distances to come on foot to this dramatic fair, saving the price of a carriage both ways, and to make tail at the @@ -540,10 +501,10 @@ Revolution and the First Empire. Each step in it awoke souvenirs that people thought but little of in my childhood, romanticism being more interested in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, and more inquisitive about the massacre of Saint-Barthelemy than about those of September. It -looked with tenderness at the old corner turret of the Grève Square, but +looked with tenderness at the old corner turret of the Grève Square, but gave no glance at the sign-post on the same Square, where the unfortunate Foulon was hanged. It deplored the disappearance of the -Barbette Gate which marked the site where Charles d'Orléans was +Barbette Gate which marked the site where Charles d'Orléans was murdered, but did not suggest going to see, a few steps further, in the Rue des Ballets, the post where Madame de Lamballe's corpse was beheaded. Artists, novelists, poets, historians disdained these @@ -559,7 +520,7 @@ chambermaid arrested by the porter, just as she is going off with her mistress's gown on her back!</i></p> <p><i>In his</i> "Stello," <i>Alfred de Vigny is quite as indifferent to local -colouring as he is to facts. He places André Chénier's scaffold "on the +colouring as he is to facts. He places André Chénier's scaffold "on the Revolution Square" after taking him thither in a cart laden with more than "eighty victims, among them being some women with children sucking at the breast"!!!</i></p> @@ -655,7 +616,7 @@ contemporaries of the Pharaohs lie piously buried beneath the column of the Bastille, side by side with the July heroes.</i></p> <p><i>I knew the courtyard of the Louvre when it had a statue of the Duke of -Orléans, put away after 1848, one of Francis I. by Clésinger succeeding +Orléans, put away after 1848, one of Francis I. by Clésinger succeeding it. Some fool or other having nicknamed it the "Sire de Framboisy," the joke was too idiotic not to have the greatest success. And to the nickname is partly due the disappearance of a work of art that deserved @@ -672,10 +633,10 @@ was flanked with an ugly wooden corridor, for ever ready to flare up! For, as tradition has it, there is always some permanent risk of fire in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xl" id="Page_xl">[Pg xl]</a><br /><a name="Page_xli" id="Page_xli">[Pg xli]</a></span> the vicinity of the Museum! On the same side, the Civil Service had run up temporary buildings which, from the small courtyard of the -Sphinx to the gate facing the Saints-Pères bridge, enclosed the ruins of +Sphinx to the gate facing the Saints-Pères bridge, enclosed the ruins of the ancient church of Saint-Thomas-du-Louvre and its dependencies, such -as the Priory where Théophile Gautier, Gérard de Nerval, Nanteuil, -Arsène Houssaye, and others, had established their "Bohème galante." +as the Priory where Théophile Gautier, Gérard de Nerval, Nanteuil, +Arsène Houssaye, and others, had established their "Bohème galante." These buildings, in favour of which extenuating circumstances might be pleaded, were hired out to colour, engraving, picture, and curiosity-dealers of all kinds. I still see a large shop of knick-knacks @@ -708,7 +669,7 @@ with dirt and slime.</i></p> <i>"Gouache" by the Chevalier de Lespinasse</i> (Carnavalet Museum)</span> </div> -<p><i>As for the Palais Royal, which the Duke d'Orléans seemed to have had +<p><i>As for the Palais Royal, which the Duke d'Orléans seemed to have had built, so that it might be the Forum of the Revolution, if it was no longer the rendezvous of politicians, clubmen, gazetteers, open-air orators, and stock-jobbers, the battlefield of 1793 Republicans and @@ -750,13 +711,13 @@ totally suppressed, or at least to be broken up into lots!</i></p> <p><i>Time was when I have seen the Place de la Concorde without its fountains and its statues, save the four horses of Marly—those of Coysevox at the gate of the Tuileries, those of Coustou at the entrance -to the Champs-Elysées. When I was a boy, the socles of the future towns +to the Champs-Elysées. When I was a boy, the socles of the future towns of France were being restored. Since the days of Louis XV., they had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xlvii" id="Page_xlvii">[Pg xlvii]</a></span> been decked with plaster caps, like saucepan lids, and were despised so much that the one bearing the town of Strasburg was flanked with a base stove-pipe. Anyway, it was the only one that shocked one's eyes. Count those at present that crown the monuments of Gabriel! Round the Square -the ditches still remained, which on fête days had already made so many +the ditches still remained, which on fête days had already made so many victims through the hindrance they offered to the crowd's getting away. One evenings when some fireworks were being let off on the Concorde bridge in honour of the King's birthday, I had only just time enough to @@ -770,7 +731,7 @@ where to put it so as to conciliate everybody's opinion. The old stone monument, indifferent to all parties, was a fitting symbol of their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xlix" id="Page_xlix">[Pg xlix]</a></span> Concord.</i></p> -<p><i>The Champs-Elysées are unrecognisable now by any one who saw them under +<p><i>The Champs-Elysées are unrecognisable now by any one who saw them under Louis-Philippe! The avenue was not then, like the Boulevard des Italiens, the meeting-place for what was called, in foolish Anglomania, "Fashion." Ices were not drunk there as on Tortoni's steps. Society @@ -808,7 +769,7 @@ repositories, coach-houses, riding-schools, and carriage-builders' premises—particularly carriage-builders'! Near the Rue Chaillot, the Avenue was bordered, on the left, with a broad turf embankment. I have seen, in the fine-weather season, diners cutting up their melon and -leg-of-mutton on it, with the naïve joy of city folk enjoying the purer +leg-of-mutton on it, with the naïve joy of city folk enjoying the purer field air.</i></p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_011" id="ILL_011"></a> @@ -843,7 +804,7 @@ off the ashes with his little finger, and stuck it right in the eye of the footpad, who loosed him with a howl that Polyphemus might have uttered! This souvenir haunted me; and, after traversing a wretched hamlet, in which I was guided only by the slope of the ground, I at last -breathed freely again in the neighbourhood of the Pépinière, promising +breathed freely again in the neighbourhood of the Pépinière, promising myself that I would never again venture into such a cut-throat locality.</i></p> @@ -871,7 +832,7 @@ the old Paris, but that I am fond of the new.</i></p> palaces, churches, monuments, streets, and squares; the Paris of literature and its admirable procession of writers, poets, thinkers, dramatists, philosophers, and humourists; the Paris of society, its -fêtes, receptions, fashions, elegancies, and snobbism; the Paris of +fêtes, receptions, fashions, elegancies, and snobbism; the Paris of politicians, the Paris of journalists, religious Paris, the Paris of the police, bohemian Paris, industrial Paris. And how many others still!</p> @@ -894,7 +855,7 @@ means of walks through what remains to us of the dear old Paris, the series of documents painted, pencilled, or engraved which are contained in the Carnavalet Museum.</p> -<p>The house that Madame de Sévigné loved so much has, in fact, become the +<p>The house that Madame de Sévigné loved so much has, in fact, become the museum of the historical collections of the French Capital.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 376px;"><a name="ILL_012" id="ILL_012"></a> @@ -963,7 +924,7 @@ designs, etchings, and lithographs borrowed from private collections, museums, libraries—and our very pleasant duty is to remark on the exceeding good grace with which every one has helped us. May our gratitude be allowed to mention the names of Messieurs Sardou, Claretie, -Detaille, Lavedan, Lenôtre, Bouchot, H. Martin, Funck-Brentano, A. +Detaille, Lavedan, Lenôtre, Bouchot, H. Martin, Funck-Brentano, A. Meignan, Massenet, Pigoreau, Ch. Drouet, de Rochegude, Beaurepaire, Ch. Sellier, J. Robiquet, our masters or our friends, not forgetting many, besides, who have lent us most precious aid. Indeed, when Paris is in @@ -979,7 +940,7 @@ apropos—"Excuse the faults of the author."</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_013" id="ILL_013"></a> <img src="images/ill_013.jpg" width="600" height="371" alt="" /> <span class="caption">THE PONT-ROYAL, THE TUILERIES, AND THE LOUVRE (18th CENTURY)<br /> -(View taken from the Pont-Neuf.) <i>Noël, pinxit.</i></span> +(View taken from the Pont-Neuf.) <i>Noël, pinxit.</i></span> </div> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> @@ -1022,7 +983,7 @@ Augustines, the King betook himself thither from the Louvre in a magnificent barque, accompanied by the Queen-Mother, Catherine de Medici, and by Queen Louise de Vaudemont, his wife. Henri III. looked melancholy; on the same morning, he had interred, in the Church of St. -Paul Quélus, the dearest of his favourites, who had died from wounds +Paul Quélus, the dearest of his favourites, who had died from wounds received, some weeks before, in the famous duel of the Minions.</p> <p>The irreverent Parisians did not hesitate to declare that, out of @@ -1031,7 +992,7 @@ Bridge of Tears." But this opinion did not last; and, as soon as Henri IV. had inaugurated it, in June 1603, "still unsafe" and unachieved, the Pont-Neuf became the gayest place in Paris. Mondor sold his balsam there, and Tabarin spouted his idle talk; there it was that the ape -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a><br /><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a><br /><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> Brioché amused the passers-by; there that the Mazarinades were +of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a><br /><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a><br /><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> Brioché amused the passers-by; there that the Mazarinades were hummed; there that duellists unsheathed their swords, and the bands of Cartouche and Mandrin gallantly relieved pedestrians of their purses. On the merry Pont-Neuf all Paris took their airings, enjoyed themselves, @@ -1080,7 +1041,7 @@ of antique marble statues?...</p> <p>But the glory of the City is Notre-Dame! Let us follow the winding, picturesque Rue Chanoinesse, where the great Balzac lodged Madame de la Chanterie, and, at No. 18, let us climb the tottering staircase of the -Dagobert Tower, an old and precious débris of the canonical buildings +Dagobert Tower, an old and precious débris of the canonical buildings that once enclosed the Cathedral of Paris. A few dozen worn-down steps will bring us to a narrow platform whence we shall behold an admirable sight.</p> @@ -1120,18 +1081,18 @@ demi-obscurity of their chapels, more devout, more touched, and closer to the infinite, beneath the painted windows darkened by the dust of centuries and the smoke of incense.</p> -<p>In the prolongation of Notre Dame and behind the Hôtel-Dieu, before +<p>In the prolongation of Notre Dame and behind the Hôtel-Dieu, before reaching the Palais de Justice, one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> formerly came across a labyrinth of winding, narrow, evil-smelling streets—the Rue de la Juiverie, the Rue -aux Fèves, the Rue de la Calandre, the Rue des Marmousets; for centuries +aux Fèves, the Rue de la Calandre, the Rue des Marmousets; for centuries this quarter had been the haunt of the lowest prostitution; there, too, dyers had established their many-coloured tubs; and blue, red, or green streams flowed down these streets with their old Parisian names. Humble chapels nestled under the eaves of Notre-Dame,—Sainte-Marine, Saint-Pierre-aux-Bœufs, and Saint-Jean-le-Rond, in which last -d'Alembert was buried. The Hôtel-Dieu opened on the right of the +d'Alembert was buried. The Hôtel-Dieu opened on the right of the Cathedral, and formed, with the close of Notre-Dame, a really imposing -setting for it. On this site, the Second Empire built the new Hôtel-Dieu +setting for it. On this site, the Second Empire built the new Hôtel-Dieu and the Prefecture of Police; and these two ugly structures, without taste or originality, seem to be the natural foils of France's national glory, Notre-Dame-de-Paris.</p> @@ -1160,7 +1121,7 @@ from the Cathedral.</p> <p>Along the Rue de la Colombe passed the Gallo-Roman belt of the City, near the house inhabited by Fulbert, the uncle who employed such cruel -arguments with the unfortunate Héloïse, Abelard's friend. In the Rue des +arguments with the unfortunate Héloïse, Abelard's friend. In the Rue des Ursins, at No. 19, may still be perceived the remains of a chapel of the twelfth century, by name Saint-Aignan; St. Bernard is said to have preached in it. It was one of the numerous sanctuaries in which, during @@ -1178,7 +1139,7 @@ confessing people in lofts, outhouses, and back-shops. In the Rue Neuve-des-Capucins, mass was said<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> in a chamber above the very dwelling occupied by the terrible Conventional Babœuf.</p> -<p>Did not the Abbé Emery, the Superior of Saint-Sulpice, from the depths +<p>Did not the Abbé Emery, the Superior of Saint-Sulpice, from the depths of his dungeon, where he strengthened the courage of the prisoners ("he prevents them from crying out," said Fouquier-Tinville), organise throughout the Paris prisons a ministry of monks that visited all the @@ -1190,7 +1151,7 @@ priests, placed there, wafted to the condemned the absolution pronounced over the dying.</p> <p>Let us go to the other side of the close of Notre-Dame, where the -Hôtel-Dieu and its dependencies used to stand. There, once was the Tower +Hôtel-Dieu and its dependencies used to stand. There, once was the Tower of the Foundlings, and the Cagnards, that old den of debauch of which Meryon has left us such powerful etchings, and before which, as a child, we were accustomed to stop with dread, while we watched the huge rats @@ -1209,7 +1170,7 @@ network of small streets round the Sainte-Chapelle and the Prefecture of Police, with gardens that ran nearly down to the water's edge. At the Pont Saint-Michel, some old houses still remain which witnessed the riots of 1793, 1830, and 1848;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a><br /><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a><br /><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> another is to be found on the Quai des -Orfèvres, where the celebrated Sabra worked; he was a popular dentist +Orfèvres, where the celebrated Sabra worked; he was a popular dentist who modestly called himself the "people's tooth-drawer." To-day it is one of the spots dear to lovers of old books, with its open-air book-stalls, and also to anglers, who, in the sun and out of the way of @@ -1238,11 +1199,11 @@ the Pont-Neuf, a few yards from the Conciergerie!</p> liberty, she saw once more as she was being led to the guillotine amid the shouts of infuriated men and women. Sanson had taken his ghastly procession along the usual road—the Pont-au-Change, the Quai de la -Mégisserie, the Trois-Marie Square; and so, turning her eyes to the +Mégisserie, the Trois-Marie Square; and so, turning her eyes to the further bank of the Seine, the poor woman, before she died, was able to give a last look at the scenery she had been familiar with in happier years, scenery over which rose the massive walls of the French -Panthéon—it was the new name of Sainte-Geneviève's Church which the +Panthéon—it was the new name of Sainte-Geneviève's Church which the Convention had just re-baptized and devoted to the worship of our national glories.</p> @@ -1253,11 +1214,11 @@ staircase of the Palais de Justice.</p> <p>The nine steps that put it on a level with the Cour du Mai were mounted by all the condemned victims of the Revolution. The Queen and Charlotte -Corday, Madame Elizabeth and Hubért's widow, the virtuous Bailly and +Corday, Madame Elizabeth and Hubért's widow, the virtuous Bailly and Madame du Bailly, Fouquier-Tinville and Monsieur de Malesherbes, Danton, Robespierre, Camille Desmoulins, the Abbess of Montmartre, Madame de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a><br /><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a><br /><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a><br /><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a><br /><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> Monaco and Anacharsis Clootz: princesses and Conventional, dukes -and Hébertists, generals of the Republic and "Fouquiers sheep," the +and Hébertists, generals of the Republic and "Fouquiers sheep," the noblest, purest, bravest, the maddest and most miserable crossed this fateful threshold.</p> @@ -1320,7 +1281,7 @@ looks and language, and even the last kiss and embrace.</p> <p>This railing still exists, black, rusty, and ill-looking, creaking as of yore; and it is not difficult to conjure<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a><br /><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a><br /><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> up the images of those that -bent over it. Madame Elizabeth, Madame Roland, Cécile Renaud, Lucile +bent over it. Madame Elizabeth, Madame Roland, Cécile Renaud, Lucile Desmoulins, Madame de Montmorency, and Charlotte Corday touched it with their dresses; and Du Barry, one of the few women who trembled at the prospect of death—"A minute longer, headsman"—also clung to it!</p> @@ -1348,7 +1309,7 @@ screen once divided it off from the chamber where two prison gendarmes were continually on guard. There, the unfortunate woman pined, in lack<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> of everything, a prey to anxiety, without news of her family, reduced to borrow the linen she required from the kindness of Richard, the porter. -Her last tire-woman was the humble servant Rosalie Lamorlière, who, "not +Her last tire-woman was the humble servant Rosalie Lamorlière, who, "not daring to make her a single curtsey for fear of compromising or afflicting her," threw over her shoulders a white linen handkerchief, an hour before her departure to the scaffold.</p> @@ -1357,7 +1318,7 @@ hour before her departure to the scaffold.</p> from the apothecary's room, whither Robespierre—with fractured, hanging jaw, his stockings down over his ankles on account of his varicose sores, still clad in the fine, blue suit that, a few weeks previously, -at the Fête of the Supreme Being, had made so many jealous—was hustled, +at the Fête of the Supreme Being, had made so many jealous—was hustled, all over blood and mud, like a hideous bundle.</p> <p>Sinister-looking, silent, showing no signs of life save by the twinges @@ -1419,25 +1380,25 @@ scenes of agony! As Paul-Louis Courier used to repeat: <i>Immane nefas.</i></p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_024" id="ILL_024"></a> <img src="images/ill_024.jpg" width="600" height="457" alt="" /> <span class="caption">THE DAUPHINE SQUARE IN 1780<br /> -<i>Drawing by Duché de Vancy (Exhibition of Painting, Carnavalet Museum)</i></span> +<i>Drawing by Duché de Vancy (Exhibition of Painting, Carnavalet Museum)</i></span> </div> <p>At the rear of the Palais de Justice was formerly the delightful Dauphine Square, where the first "Public Exhibitions of Youth" were held, the exhibits being works of artists not belonging to the official Academies. The Carnavalet Museum possesses a most amusing pencil -drawing, signed "Duché de Vancy," and dated May 1783, which bears this +drawing, signed "Duché de Vancy," and dated May 1783, which bears this manuscript inscription: "Picturesque view of the Exhibition of paintings and drawings, on the Dauphine Square, the day of the lesser Corpus Christi feast." As a matter of fact, on the Sunday of the Corpus Christi, "when it did not rain," artists had the authorisation—in the morning—to submit their works to the public; if it did rain—and this -was the case in 1783—the fête was adjourned to the following Thursday. +was the case in 1783—the fête was adjourned to the following Thursday. The pictures were exposed in the northern corner of the Square, on white hangings fixed by the shopkeepers in front of their shops; and the Exhibition extended on to the bridge as far as opposite the good Henri's statue. Oudry, Restout, de Troy, Grimoud, Boucher, Nattier, Louis -Tocqué, and, last of all, Chardin showed their works there. In an +Tocqué, and, last of all, Chardin showed their works there. In an excellent study devoted to these Exhibitions of Youth, Monsieur Prosper Dorbec details the works that Chardin took to this ephemeral Salon of the Dauphine Square. In 1728, when he was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a><br /><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a><br /><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> twenty-nine, he presented @@ -1463,32 +1424,32 @@ the Minor Exhibitors of the Dauphine Square.</p> <p>The Isle of Saint-Louis is, in some sort, the continuation of the old City. It is a kind of provincial town in Paris. The streets are silent and deserted; there are no shops, no promenaders, no business; a few old -aristocratic mansions, with their tall façades, their emblazoned +aristocratic mansions, with their tall façades, their emblazoned pediments and their severe architecture, alone tell the glorious past of this noble quarter.</p> <p>The finely carved spire of Saint-Louis' Church confers an elegance on -the somewhat melancholy whole. The quays of Orléans and Bethune contain +the somewhat melancholy whole. The quays of Orléans and Bethune contain vast buildings of grand style. In the Rue Saint-Louis, is the admirable Lambert mansion, that masterpiece of the architect Le Vau, which was lost at the gaming-table in one night by Monsieur Dupin de Chenonceaux, the ungrateful pupil<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> of Jean-Jacques Rousseau. Le Brun painted the -gallery of the Fêtes in it, and Le Sueur the saloon of the Muses.</p> +gallery of the Fêtes in it, and Le Sueur the saloon of the Muses.</p> -<p>At that time, it was the rendezvous of all the wits. Madame du Châtelet +<p>At that time, it was the rendezvous of all the wits. Madame du Châtelet throned there, Voltaire lived in it, and the Lambert mansion radiated over the length and breadth of dazzled Paris.</p> <p>Then came darker days. The masterpieces of Le Sueur were sold—most of them found their way to the Louvre—and nothing survives of this great -painter's work in the Lambert mansion except a grey camaïeu placed under +painter's work in the Lambert mansion except a grey camaïeu placed under a staircase, and a few panels scattered here and there.</p> <p>Last of all—as if to mark its definitive decadence;—the mansion was occupied by some military-bed purveyors. The fine carvings, sumptuous paintings and gilded arabesques disappeared beneath a thick white dust from cards of wool. In the great gallery, so magnificently decorated by -Le Brun and Van Opstaël, mattress-women set up their trestles and +Le Brun and Van Opstaël, mattress-women set up their trestles and seamstresses began to sew sacking.</p> <p>Later, Prince Czartorisky bought this noble dwelling and thus saved it @@ -1500,7 +1461,7 @@ disembarked for the first time in Paris, on the 19th of October 1784, a pale-complexioned youth of resolute brow, with eyes that gazed from their depths on the horizons of the immense<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a><br /><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a><br /><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> town. It was Bonaparte, a pupil from the Brienne School, who had come to continue his studies at -the École Militaire; and the first glimpse the future Cæsar had of the +the École Militaire; and the first glimpse the future Cæsar had of the great Paris which was ultimately to acclaim him was the apse of Notre-Dame, the old and venerable Notre-Dame in which he was to be crowned, and round which, in preparation for the coronation day, the 2nd @@ -1523,7 +1484,7 @@ belonging to the seventeenth century: a fine frame for a fine project.</p> <p>In this old quarter of the Isle of Saint-Louis, at the confluence of the Seine's two arms, painters, writers and poets have always dwelt: George -Sand, Baudelaire, Théophile Gautier, Gérard de Nerval, Méry, Daubigny, +Sand, Baudelaire, Théophile Gautier, Gérard de Nerval, Méry, Daubigny, Corot, Barye, Daumier, all lived there for a long time. In the Lauzun mansion, were held the sittings of the hashish smokers' club; and the chipped Virgin that looks from her niche at the corner of the Rue @@ -1556,7 +1517,7 @@ the sinking sun. The Seine flows with a surface of liquid gold.</p> <hr class="chap" /> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_028" id="ILL_028"></a> <img src="images/ill_028.jpg" width="600" height="343" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">BUILDING OF THE PANTHÉON<br /> +<span class="caption">BUILDING OF THE PANTHÉON<br /> <i>Fragment of a water-colour by Saint-Aubin</i></span> </div> @@ -1568,14 +1529,14 @@ We find the arenas of Lutecia, and, above all, the Thermae of Julian, saved from destruction by the taste and initiative of Du Sommerard at the moment when these grandiose ruins, which were being used as coopers' store-rooms, were about to be pulled down, involving in their fall that -jewel of the fifteenth century, the marvellous Hôtel de Cluny. Quite +jewel of the fifteenth century, the marvellous Hôtel de Cluny. Quite recently, remains of Roman substructures have been discovered near the College de France, in the Rue Saint-Jacques and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> Saint-Michel Boulevard; but the glory of the left bank of the river was, in particular, the University and the Sorbonne.</p> <p>Little to-day is left of these old walls; but, ten years ago, the hill -of Sainte-Geneviève still preserved much of its whilom picturesqueness.</p> +of Sainte-Geneviève still preserved much of its whilom picturesqueness.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_029" id="ILL_029"></a> <img src="images/ill_029.jpg" width="600" height="394" alt="" /> @@ -1585,9 +1546,9 @@ of Sainte-Geneviève still preserved much of its whilom picturesqueness.</p> <p>There was the Rue Saint-Jacques, with its old book-sellers and seventeenth-century houses, and especially—what dread -reminiscences!—the heavy-leaved gate of the Louis-le-Grand Lycée, where +reminiscences!—the heavy-leaved gate of the Louis-le-Grand Lycée, where Robespierre, Camille Desmoulins, and the future Marshal Brune had -studied under the mastership of the good Abbé Berardier. I confess that +studied under the mastership of the good Abbé Berardier. I confess that the Louis-le-Grand of our boyhood was black, and gloomy enough also, with its moss-grown playgrounds, its smoky rooms, its punishment chambers up under the roof, where one was frozen in winter and stifled @@ -1600,10 +1561,10 @@ pensive.</p> <p>There was the Sorbonne, with its paved courtyard, where we used to wait, pale, feverish and anxious, for the posting of the small white notice bearing the names of those candidates for the Baccalaureat that were -admitted to the <i>vivâ voce</i>; and we were half-dead with fear at the idea -of appearing before the terrible Monsieur Bernès, while we blessed the +admitted to the <i>vivâ voce</i>; and we were half-dead with fear at the idea +of appearing before the terrible Monsieur Bernès, while we blessed the gods to have given us as examiner<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a><br /><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a><br /><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> the witty and indulgent Monsieur -Mézières, who, at least for his part, has not grown old.</p> +Mézières, who, at least for his part, has not grown old.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 277px;"><a name="ILL_030" id="ILL_030"></a> <img src="images/ill_030.jpg" width="277" height="400" alt="" /> @@ -1612,9 +1573,9 @@ Mézières, who, at least for his part, has not grown old.</p> </div> <p>Further on, in the rear of Sainte-Barbe, we come to the Rue de la -Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève, alive and teeming with its old mansions +Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève, alive and teeming with its old mansions converted into dispensaries or business premises, its petty trades, its -popular dancing-rooms, and, last but not least, its celebrated École +popular dancing-rooms, and, last but not least, its celebrated École Polytechnique, dear to all Parisians, which adds its note of cheerfulness to this somewhat sombre quarter.</p> @@ -1625,7 +1586,7 @@ cheerfulness to this somewhat sombre quarter.</p> </div> <p>Quite near there is the Rue Clovis, where formerly stood the Abbey of -Sainte-Geneviève, whose square tower still remains and makes us regret +Sainte-Geneviève, whose square tower still remains and makes us regret the part that has disappeared. In this Rue Clovis may be seen, crumbling to decay and half-buried under climbing plants—lichens, ivy, sage and moss—a big side of a primitive-looking wall, a fragment<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> of the @@ -1638,7 +1599,7 @@ Rue Clovis. Illustrious dead were buried there: Pascal, Racine, Boileau.</p> <p>A crime was also committed in it.</p> <p>On the 3rd of January 1858, the first day of the novena of -Sainte-Geneviève, whose relics repose in one of the side-chapels of the +Sainte-Geneviève, whose relics repose in one of the side-chapels of the church, dreadful cries were heard: "They have just murdered Monseigneur," and soon a man of haggard looks, clad in black, with blood-red hands, was seen on the Square in the grasp of some policemen @@ -1680,7 +1641,7 @@ without resistance.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 247px;"><a name="ILL_032" id="ILL_032"></a> <img src="images/ill_032.jpg" width="247" height="400" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE RUE DE LA MONTAGNE-SAINTE-GENEVIÈVE IN 1866<br /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE DE LA MONTAGNE-SAINTE-GENEVIÈVE IN 1866<br /> <i>Drawn by A. Maignan</i></span> </div> @@ -1703,7 +1664,7 @@ iron trellis."</p> <div class="figleft" style="width: 251px;"><a name="ILL_033" id="ILL_033"></a> <img src="images/ill_033.jpg" width="251" height="300" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE PANTHÉON, IN BUILDING</span> +<span class="caption">THE PANTHÉON, IN BUILDING</span> </div> <p>It is one of the retreats for poetry and devotion so common in Paris, @@ -1711,16 +1672,16 @@ and yet ofttimes so unsuspected amid the city's noise; and one never forgets the impression produced when leaving the Latin Quarter, with its laughter and songs, and plunging suddenly into this deserted cloister full of dream and melancholy, though so close to the sunny, busy square -of the Panthéon, where, on the 27th of July 1830, to the shouts of the -people and the army, an actor at the Odéon Theatre, Eric Besnard, +of the Panthéon, where, on the 27th of July 1830, to the shouts of the +people and the army, an actor at the Odéon Theatre, Eric Besnard, replaced once more the inscription: "<i>To her great men the grateful mother country</i>" on the fine temple built by Soufflot, which the -Restoration had consecrated to the worship of Sainte-Geneviève.</p> +Restoration had consecrated to the worship of Sainte-Geneviève.</p> -<p>The Panthéon is certainly the one Parisian building<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a><br /><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a><br /><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> which has been +<p>The Panthéon is certainly the one Parisian building<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a><br /><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a><br /><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> which has been most often baptized and re-baptized. Constructed in consequence of a vow made by Louis XV. when ill at Metz, on the gardens belonging to the -original Abbey of Sainte-Geneviève, the money that paid for it was +original Abbey of Sainte-Geneviève, the money that paid for it was derived from a portion of the funds raised by three lotteries drawn every month in Paris.</p> @@ -1737,24 +1698,24 @@ finishing his undertaking.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 277px;"><a name="ILL_034" id="ILL_034"></a> <img src="images/ill_034.jpg" width="277" height="400" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">PROCESSION IN FRONT OF SAINTE-GENEVIÈVE<br /> +<span class="caption">PROCESSION IN FRONT OF SAINTE-GENEVIÈVE<br /> <i>Meunier, fecit</i> (Carnavalet Museum)</span> </div> <p>In 1791, the constituent Assembly set apart for the "Honouring of Great -Men" the church primitively dedicated to Sainte-Geneviève; and +Men" the church primitively dedicated to Sainte-Geneviève; and Mirabeau's body was conveyed thither in triumph "to the sounds of trombone and gong, whose notes, by the intensity with which they were produced, tore the bowels and harrowed the heart," says a chronicle of the time.</p> <p>The great tribune was destined to make but a short stay in the -Panthéon,—this was the name given to the secularised church—for on the -27th of November 1793, at the instigation of Joseph Chénier, and after +Panthéon,—this was the name given to the secularised church—for on the +27th of November 1793, at the instigation of Joseph Chénier, and after study of the documents found in the iron safe, documents that left no doubt as to "the great treason of the Count de Mirabeau," the Convention, "considering that a man cannot be great without virtue, -decreed that Mirabeau's ashes should be removed from the Panthéon, and +decreed that Mirabeau's ashes should be removed from the Panthéon, and that those of Marat should be buried there." The sentence was carried out by night, and the "virtuous" Marat took the place of Mirabeau; not for long, however, since, some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a><br /><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a><br /><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> months later, Marat's body, @@ -1762,25 +1723,25 @@ for long, however, since, some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_ small graveyard belonging to Saint-Etienne-du-Mont. Voltaire and Rousseau were, in their turn, triumphantly interred. Voltaire's body, after remaining all night in the ruins of the Bastille, had been brought -to the Panthéon on a triumphal car, escorted by fifty girls dressed in +to the Panthéon on a triumphal car, escorted by fifty girls dressed in antique style through David's care, and by the actors and actresses of -the Théâtre Français in their stage dresses. The widow and daughters of +the Théâtre Français in their stage dresses. The widow and daughters of the unfortunate Calas walked behind, close to the torn flag of the -Bastille. In order to make this interment a never-to-be-forgotten fête, +Bastille. In order to make this interment a never-to-be-forgotten fête, its organisers had provided for everything except for the weather. A dreadful storm descended on the heads of those composing the procession: -Mérope, Lusignan, the Virgins, Brutus, and the delegates sent in the +Mérope, Lusignan, the Virgins, Brutus, and the delegates sent in the names of Politics, the Arts, and Agriculture, were wet to the skin; and, covered with mud and in wretched plight, were compelled to huddle into cabs or shelter themselves under umbrellas.</p> <p>And thus it was that, on the 12th of July 1791, Voltaire made his entry -into the Panthéon.</p> +into the Panthéon.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_035" id="ILL_035"></a> <img src="images/ill_035.jpg" width="600" height="472" alt="" /> <span class="caption">THE APOTHEOSIS OF JEAN-JACQUES ROUSSEAU<br /> -His translation to the Panthéon on the 11th of October 1794<br /> +His translation to the Panthéon on the 11th of October 1794<br /> <i>Girardet, inv. et del.</i></span> </div> @@ -1791,7 +1752,7 @@ preceding night on the basin of the Tuileries, transformed for the occasion into an "Isle of Poplars." While yet not so popular as that of Voltaire, his triumph was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> "one of sensitive souls," and "the man of nature" was interred according to the rites he had himself prescribed. -Later, Napoleon peopled the Panthéon with the shades of obscure senators +Later, Napoleon peopled the Panthéon with the shades of obscure senators and some few artists, admirals, and generals. Subsequently, the Second Republic made a definitive assignment of the edifice to the cult of great men; and there, on a sunny day, the 3rd of May 1885, Victor Hugo's @@ -1801,32 +1762,32 @@ under the Arc de Triomphe, which he had so nobly sung. Since then, Baudin, President Carnot, La Tour d'Auvergne have been buried there; and an admirable decoration, the work of our best contemporary artists, covers the vast walls of this necropolis. Puvis de Chavannes, Humbert, -Henri-Lévy, Cabanel, Jean-Paul Laurens are finely represented in it; +Henri-Lévy, Cabanel, Jean-Paul Laurens are finely represented in it; and, last of all, Edouard Detaille, surpassing himself, has, in an admirable soaring of art, created on the canvas—in Homeric proportions—a mad rush of horses and riders, the old cavaliers of the Republic and the Empire, towards the radiant image of the Motherland, with standards conquered from the enemy by their dauntless heroism.</p> -<p>Around the Panthéon, there used to be, and still is, a labyrinth of +<p>Around the Panthéon, there used to be, and still is, a labyrinth of little streets, poor and crowded together, once inhabited by those that attended the schools, so numerous in that quarter of the Sorbonne.</p> <p>The Rue des Carmes remains to us as a perfect specimen of the past, with its houses whose shaking<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a><br /><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a><br /><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> walls support each other, its crumbling -façades, its dilapidated staircases; and then, here and there, the +façades, its dilapidated staircases; and then, here and there, the relics of a vanished splendour, the entrance to two important colleges, to-day dwindled down into dens of misery, into lodgings of the poor. Narrow and uneven, the Rue des Carmes ascends toilingly between shops whose paint has been streaked by storms, faded by dust and wind; and yet it continues to be full of charm and poetry, this sorry-looking street, -crowned at the top by the august proportions of the Panthéon, and +crowned at the top by the august proportions of the Panthéon, and framing at the bottom, with its two lines of dingy houses, mean hotels, and dancing-rooms, the delicate and elegant spire of Notre-Dame aloft on the horizon of the clear sky.</p> <p>It was at the corner of this Rue des Carmes and the Rue des Sept-Voies, -not far from Sainte-Geneviève's church, that, at seven o'clock in the +not far from Sainte-Geneviève's church, that, at seven o'clock in the evening of the 9th of March 1804, George Cadoudal sprang into the cab that was to take him to the fresh hiding-place which his friends had prepared for him in the house of Caron, the royalist perfumer of the Rue @@ -1847,12 +1808,12 @@ the handle were not the English hall-mark. "I cannot say," he replied, <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_036" id="ILL_036"></a> <img src="images/ill_036.jpg" width="600" height="425" alt="" /> <span class="caption">THE LUXEMBOURG, ABOUT 1790<br /> -<i>Maréchal, del.</i> (National Library)</span> +<i>Maréchal, del.</i> (National Library)</span> </div> <p>Quite near, is the Luxembourg, both palace and prison, the Luxembourg, -where Marie de Medici gave such magnificent fêtes, where Gaston -d'Orléans yawned so much, and where the Grande Mademoiselle sulked, +where Marie de Medici gave such magnificent fêtes, where Gaston +d'Orléans yawned so much, and where the Grande Mademoiselle sulked, sighing for the handsome Lauzun; where also the Count de Provence so cleverly prepared, with Monsieur d'Avaray, his escape from France, on the same evening that Louis XVI. and Marie-Antoinette made such bad @@ -1865,7 +1826,7 @@ later, Robespierre was brought as a prisoner, and where, "for want of room," Hally, the porter, refused to receive him; the Luxembourg where, after Thermidor, the artist David painted, from, his dungeon, the shady walk in which he could<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a><br /><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a><br /><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> see his children playing at ball; the -Luxembourg of Barras, of Bonaparte, of the Directory fêtes; the +Luxembourg of Barras, of Bonaparte, of the Directory fêtes; the Luxembourg, too, of Nodier, of Saint-Beuve, of Murger, of Michelet, of the students, of the workers of Bohemia, of the songs of the worthy Nadaud and Mimi Pinson, near to Bullier's and the Lilac Closerie and @@ -1873,7 +1834,7 @@ also to the Observatory and the ill-omened wall "scored with bullets" where Marshal Ney fell. Everywhere, the same mingling of mirth and sorrow, of laughter and blood. The reason is that each street, each cross-road, almost each house has seen some dark procession pass by or -some victorious fête celebrated.</p> +some victorious fête celebrated.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_037" id="ILL_037"></a> <img src="images/ill_037.jpg" width="600" height="444" alt="" /> @@ -1899,7 +1860,7 @@ first story, on the wall bearing even now the red marks of the blood-dripping sabres used by the slayers, may be read the signatures of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> fair prisoners who, day after day, in terrified anxiety, waited, each evening, for the fatal order to appear before the Tribunal: -Mesdames d'Aiguillon, Terezia Cabarrus-Tallien, Joséphine de +Mesdames d'Aiguillon, Terezia Cabarrus-Tallien, Joséphine de Beauharnais. At this date, Tallien, himself suspected and followed by a band of spies, prowled from eve till morn round the sinister prison in which the woman he loved was confined. One day, on his table, 17 Rue de @@ -1920,7 +1881,7 @@ country; the mother country for him was the woman he worshipped. Mad with love and rage, rousing against Robespierre every rancour, terror, and hatred, he spent the night and the day of the 8th in preparing the dreadful and tragical sitting of the 9th of Thermidor, which was a -merciless<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a><br /><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a><br /><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> duel between the two sides. He appealed to Fouché, to +merciless<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a><br /><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a><br /><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> duel between the two sides. He appealed to Fouché, to Collot d'Herbois as to Durand-Maillane and Louchet, to Cambon as to Vadier, to Thuriot as to Legendre, to the few remaining Dantonists as to the eternal tremblers of the Marais; then, springing to the rostrum with @@ -1933,12 +1894,12 @@ Convention.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_038" id="ILL_038"></a> <img src="images/ill_038.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">FÊTE GIVEN AT THE LUXEMBOURG ON THE 20TH OF FRIMAIRE, ANNO VII.<br /> +<span class="caption">FÊTE GIVEN AT THE LUXEMBOURG ON THE 20TH OF FRIMAIRE, ANNO VII.<br /> Bonaparte hands to the Directory the treaty of Campo-Formio</span> </div> -<p>Opposite the Luxembourg, is the Rue de Tournon, where Théroigne de -Méricourt and Mademoiselle Lenormand lived; the Countess d'Houdetot +<p>Opposite the Luxembourg, is the Rue de Tournon, where Théroigne de +Méricourt and Mademoiselle Lenormand lived; the Countess d'Houdetot dwelt at No. 12, the appearance of which has hardly changed since. If he were to come back and wander about these parts, Jean-Jacques Rousseau would again find almost intact the home of her he chiefly loved, quite @@ -1965,17 +1926,17 @@ over his corpse. Poison had made an end of this noble life of work, glory, and misery.</p> <p>Aloft in the same quiet quarter, Saint-Sulpice rears its two unequal -towers, on which Chappe planted the great arms of his aërial telegraph. +towers, on which Chappe planted the great arms of his aërial telegraph. It was in the fine vestry of this imposing church, which has preserved its admirable wood-carvings, that Camille Desmoulins signed the marriage register, when, on the 29th of December 1790, he married his adored Lucile Duplessis. The marriage was a veritable romance; and all Paris crowded to the gates of Saint-Sulpice to see the procession go by. The bride and bridegroom were congratulated; and cheers were given for the -witnesses, whose names had already become popular; Sillery,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a><br /><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a><br /><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> Pétion, +witnesses, whose names had already become popular; Sillery,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a><br /><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a><br /><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> Pétion, Mercier, and Robespierre. Then, the wedding party ascended the Rue de -Condé to go and breakfast at Camille's home, No. 1 Rue du Théâtre -François (to-day, No. 38 Rue de l'Odéon), on the third floor. There, on +Condé to go and breakfast at Camille's home, No. 1 Rue du Théâtre +François (to-day, No. 38 Rue de l'Odéon), on the third floor. There, on the 20th of March 1794, the day of his mother's death, he was arrested, bound like a malefactor, and thence was taken to the Luxembourg hard by. On the 5th of April, Camille was executed amid the shouts of the people @@ -1983,8 +1944,8 @@ who had so flattered him. Lucile followed him to the scaffold a week later! They had sworn to love each other in life and death.... The idyll finished in blood.</p> -<p>Round about Saint-Sulpice, one comes across the Rue Férou, the Rue -Cassette, the Rue Garancière, the Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, the Rue +<p>Round about Saint-Sulpice, one comes across the Rue Férou, the Rue +Cassette, the Rue Garancière, the Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, the Rue Madame, with their ancient names and provincial aspect, devout and silent quarters of monastic and semi-mysterious life, and, for this reason, full of infinite charm.</p> @@ -2007,23 +1968,23 @@ says Chateaubriand in his <i>Memoirs from beyond the Grave</i>.</p> <p>Old mansions are numerous.</p> <p>In the Rue de Varenne alone, each portal awakes a remembrance of the -most illustrious names of France's nobility: Broglie, Bourbon, Condé, -Villeroy, Castries, Rohan-Chabot, Tessé, Béthune-Sully, Montmorency, -Rougé, Ségur, Aubeterre, Narbonne-Pelet, &c., and some of the hosts of +most illustrious names of France's nobility: Broglie, Bourbon, Condé, +Villeroy, Castries, Rohan-Chabot, Tessé, Béthune-Sully, Montmorency, +Rougé, Ségur, Aubeterre, Narbonne-Pelet, &c., and some of the hosts of these aristocratic dwellings were certainly found disguised, dressed up as horse-dealers, drovers, peasants, workmen, in the <i>Golden Cup</i> hostelry at the corner of the Rue de Varenne, which was celebrated in the history of the Chouannerie: the heroes of <i>Tournebut</i>, my dear -friend Lenôtre's interesting work, put up there, says the author, who, +friend Lenôtre's interesting work, put up there, says the author, who, himself filled with enthusiasm, knows how to inspire his reader with the same. It was one of the meeting-places used by the sworn companions of George Cadoudal, who hid there several times; and there, too, the -royalist conspirators met to complete, for Vendémiaire, Anno IV., their +royalist conspirators met to complete, for Vendémiaire, Anno IV., their arrangements relative to the abduction of the Convention.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 431px;"><a name="ILL_039" id="ILL_039"></a> <img src="images/ill_039.jpg" width="431" height="600" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE RUE DE L'ECOLE DE MÉDECINE IN 1866<br /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE DE L'ECOLE DE MÉDECINE IN 1866<br /> House where Marat was assassinated<br /> <i>Drawn by A. Maignan</i></span> </div> @@ -2034,17 +1995,17 @@ where a famous hiding-place was used. Hyde de Neuville tells us, in his picturesque<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a><br /><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a><br /><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> memoirs, that one needed only to slip behind the picture, serving as signboard to the perfumery—a picture overhanging the street—then to draw over one the shutter of the neighbouring chamber, -for all the police Fouché employed to be tricked, in spite of searching, +for all the police Fouché employed to be tricked, in spite of searching, as they frequently did, the house through and through.</p> -<p>Next, we come upon the Odéon—the old Odéon—still standing on its base, +<p>Next, we come upon the Odéon—the old Odéon—still standing on its base, in spite of the countless jests levelled at it, with its famous galleries, where, for many a long year, saunterers have gone to have a look at the last productions of contemporary literature. How often have we lingered in front of the old books or new ones, turning over the leaves, or reading between two pages yet uncut?</p> -<p>It was in 1873 that, under three arcades of the Odéon galleries, the +<p>It was in 1873 that, under three arcades of the Odéon galleries, the most amiable of publishers, Ernest Flammarion, installed himself in partnership with Ch. Marpon; both of them indefatigable workers, benevolent and witty, they spent treasures of contrivance to get into @@ -2065,7 +2026,7 @@ strong for their feelings," he murmurs by way of excuse, and, philosophically, he smiles and passes these petty larcenies to his profit and loss account.</p> -<p>Along the Rue de l'École-de-Médecine, passing by the Dupuytren Museum, +<p>Along the Rue de l'École-de-Médecine, passing by the Dupuytren Museum, which was formerly the refectory of the Franciscan monastery, we reach the Boulevard Saint-Germain, the cutting of which did away with so many precious relics; among others, the abode where Marat was assassinated, @@ -2086,7 +2047,7 @@ quitting his office, coughing the while, for he had a delicate chest.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_040" id="ILL_040"></a> <img src="images/ill_040.jpg" width="400" height="204" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE GALLERY OF THE ODÉON (RUE ROTROU)</span> +<span class="caption">THE GALLERY OF THE ODÉON (RUE ROTROU)</span> </div> <p>Together with the present presbytery, they form the sole extant @@ -2104,7 +2065,7 @@ of the Palais-Royal, of the <i>Lanterne</i>, the <i>Revolutions of France and Brabant</i>, the <i>Brissot unmasked</i>; the Camille of the "<i>Vieux Cordelier</i>," that masterpiece of wit and courage,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> in which he dared to speak of clemency to Robespierre and of respect for his fellows to the -ignoble Hébert! On the site of Danton's house, the tribune's statue +ignoble Hébert! On the site of Danton's house, the tribune's statue stands to-day; we regret the house.</p> <div class="figleft" style="width: 329px;"><a name="ILL_041" id="ILL_041"></a> @@ -2141,17 +2102,17 @@ advertisement, "Small hands required for flowers and feathers," beside a plate pointing out the address of the newspaper, <i>Heaven</i>, on the fourth floor, door to the left!</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a><br /><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a><br /><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span></p> -<p>The Rue de l'Ancienne Comédie is on one side; it is the ancient Rue des -Fossés-Saint-Germain, where Marat set up his press and printing-machine +<p>The Rue de l'Ancienne Comédie is on one side; it is the ancient Rue des +Fossés-Saint-Germain, where Marat set up his press and printing-machine in a cellar. At No. 14, in the courtyard of an old mansion occupied by a -wall-paper merchant, once stood the premises of the Théâtre-Français. +wall-paper merchant, once stood the premises of the Théâtre-Français. The large entrance door, the staircases leading to the actors' private rooms, the slanting pit of the hall, and even the friezes are still in existence. The King's Comedians played there, on April 18th, 1689, -<i>Phèdre</i> and the <i>Médecin malgré lui</i>, and performed in the same +<i>Phèdre</i> and the <i>Médecin malgré lui</i>, and performed in the same building until 1770.</p> -<p>The encyclopædists, d'Alembert, Diderot and his friends, used to meet +<p>The encyclopædists, d'Alembert, Diderot and his friends, used to meet opposite at the Procope coffee-house, the handsome iron balcony of which is yet subsisting, from where it was so agreeable to hobnob with the balcony of the Comedy. The Procope coffee-house, celebrated in the @@ -2166,13 +2127,13 @@ Paris, and also remains as it was then.</p> <div class="figleft" style="width: 340px;"><a name="ILL_043" id="ILL_043"></a> <img src="images/ill_043.jpg" width="340" height="500" alt="" /> <span class="caption">THE RUE VISCONTI<br /> -<i>Water-colour by F. Léon</i></span> +<i>Water-colour by F. Léon</i></span> </div> -<p>Near the spot, at No. 1 Rue Bourbon-le-Château, on the 23rd of December +<p>Near the spot, at No. 1 Rue Bourbon-le-Château, on the 23rd of December 1850, two poor women were assassinated. One of them, Mademoiselle Ribault, a designer on the staff of the <i>Petit Courrier des Dames</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> -edited by Monsieur Thiéry, had the strength to write on a screen with a +edited by Monsieur Thiéry, had the strength to write on a screen with a finger dipped in her own blood: "The assassin is the clerk of M. Thi...." This clerk, Laforcade, was arrested the next day.</p> @@ -2182,18 +2143,18 @@ met with on the left bank of the river!</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 286px;"><a name="ILL_044" id="ILL_044"></a> <img src="images/ill_044.jpg" width="286" height="400" alt="" /> <span class="caption">ALFRED DE MUSSET AT 23 YEARS OF AGE<br /> -<i>Drawn by Lépaulle</i> (Pigoreau Collection)</span> +<i>Drawn by Lépaulle</i> (Pigoreau Collection)</span> </div> <p>Not all have disappeared for ever of those vast melancholy gardens, those hoary mansions buried in streets where the grass grows, and whose -noble but gloomy façades would never cause one to suspect the riches -they contain. Many are in the vicinity of the Hôtel des Invalides. +noble but gloomy façades would never cause one to suspect the riches +they contain. Many are in the vicinity of the Hôtel des Invalides. Others are in the Rue Vanneau, the Rue Bellechasse, the Rue de Varenne, the Rue Saint-Guillaume, the Rue Bonaparte; some also in the Rue Visconti, which dark narrow lane possesses illustrious souvenirs. The -famous Champmeslé, Clairon, and Adrienne Lecouvreur lived in the Ranes -mansion, built on the site of the Petit-Pré-aux-Clercs, and J. Racine +famous Champmeslé, Clairon, and Adrienne Lecouvreur lived in the Ranes +mansion, built on the site of the Petit-Pré-aux-Clercs, and J. Racine died there in 1697. This house, which bears the number 21, is to-day a girls' boarding-school! And last of all, at No. 17 the great Balzac established the printing-press that ruined him, and that later became @@ -2210,7 +2171,7 @@ and whose corpse, wrapped in a dressing-gown and held up by straps, like a traveller asleep, started by night in a travelling-coach, on the 30th of May 1778, from the courtyard of Monsieur de Villette's mansion, with its entrance still in the Rue de Beaune, to be buried outside Paris at -the Abbey of Scellières in Champagne.</p> +the Abbey of Scellières in Champagne.</p> <p>The flat in which Voltaire passed away has not been altered, and its decoration has remained almost intact, with its wall mirrors, its @@ -2219,7 +2180,7 @@ walls.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_045" id="ILL_045"></a> <img src="images/ill_045.jpg" width="600" height="398" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE FAÇADE OF THE INSTITUTE<br /> +<span class="caption">THE FAÇADE OF THE INSTITUTE<br /> <i>From an original drawing of the Revolutionary period</i> (Carnavalet Museum)</span> </div> @@ -2245,7 +2206,7 @@ presence—bars of music, verses, drawings, writings of varied nature. I confess I should not dare to reproduce, even expurgated,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a><br /><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a><br /><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a><br /><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a><br /><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> the inscriptions which confinement and absence from Paris streets and acquaintance have suggested to many an admirable composer of to-day. -Saint-Saëns would certainly blush, Bizet's great shade would be +Saint-Saëns would certainly blush, Bizet's great shade would be troubled, our great and witty Massenet would surely refuse to accept the paternity of his vigorous apostrophes, and—I will be discreet; never mind—it's something very enjoyable, very funny, and quite in the @@ -2255,15 +2216,15 @@ character of the language.</p> of which, if we are to believe his delightful Memoirs, Alexandre Dumas contributed so valiantly to the triumph of the 1830 Revolution) nestles a small, provincial-looking Square; Madame Permon, mother of the future -Madame Junot, Duchess of Abrantès, lived there until the Revolution. In +Madame Junot, Duchess of Abrantès, lived there until the Revolution. In a small garret of the same house, at the left corner, on the third -floor, Bonaparte used to lodge during his rare holidays from the École +floor, Bonaparte used to lodge during his rare holidays from the École Militaire. The fine, carved wainscotings are still round the walls of the drawing-room on the ground floor, overlooking the Seine, which the -Cæsar that-was-to-be used to enter and there speak of his hopes, and the +Cæsar that-was-to-be used to enter and there speak of his hopes, and the marble chimney-piece is in its old place; at it he would come and dry his big patched boots that "smoked again," the talkative Madame -d'Abrantès tells us. So, while dreaming, the little sub-lieutenant +d'Abrantès tells us. So, while dreaming, the little sub-lieutenant might, from the window, see opposite him the palace whence, for a number of years, he was to conqueringly dispose of the destinies of the dazzled world.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p> @@ -2284,20 +2245,20 @@ round this odd little world seen from the Pont des Arts!</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_046" id="ILL_046"></a> <img src="images/ill_046.jpg" width="600" height="366" alt="" /> <span class="caption">VIEW FROM THE LOUVRE QUAY<br /> -<i>Noël, pinxit</i></span> +<i>Noël, pinxit</i></span> </div> <p>On the one bank, the Louvre, the green foliage of the Tuileries, and the -Champs-Elysées, with the minarets of the Trocadero and the heights of +Champs-Elysées, with the minarets of the Trocadero and the heights of Chaillot on the horizon; on the other, all old Paris, a series of monuments haloed with souvenirs—the Palais de Justice, the Conciergerie, the Sainte-Chapelle, Notre-Dame; the churches of Saint-Germain-l'Auxerrois, Saint-Gervais, Saint-Paul; the Pointe de la -Cité.</p> +Cité.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_047" id="ILL_047"></a> <img src="images/ill_047.jpg" width="600" height="474" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">PARIS FROM THE POINTE DE LA CITÉ<br /> +<span class="caption">PARIS FROM THE POINTE DE LA CITÉ<br /> <i>Photographed by Richebourg</i></span> </div> @@ -2319,7 +2280,7 @@ Rue Mazarine—we discover in the Rue Contrescarpe-Dauphine—at present the Rue Mazet—the remains of the old White Horse Inn. The stables, with their ancient mangers and quaint eaves, still exist. They date back to Louis XIV. In that time, every week the huge inn-yard was filled with -travellers going to Orléans and Blois; and the unwieldy coach started in +travellers going to Orléans and Blois; and the unwieldy coach started in a cloud of dust, amidst crackings of whip, trumpetings, adieus, and shakings of handkerchiefs; horses pranced, women wept, dogs barked, postilions swore. To-day the animation has disappeared, but the scene @@ -2330,12 +2291,12 @@ Manon<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class= <p>The neighbouring house was once the Magny restaurant, at which those celebrated dinners were given that Goncourt speaks of so often in his Memoirs, dinners shared by Renan, Sainte-Beuve, Georges Sand, Flaubert, -Théophile Gautier, Gavarni, and many others.</p> +Théophile Gautier, Gavarni, and many others.</p> -<p>Not far away, and connecting the Rue Mazarine—where Molière and his +<p>Not far away, and connecting the Rue Mazarine—where Molière and his company played—with the Rue de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> Seine, let us go through the Passage du Pont-Neuf, occupying the site of the ancient entrance to the theatre, -and being the scene of Zola's terrible novel <i>Thérèse Raquin</i>.</p> +and being the scene of Zola's terrible novel <i>Thérèse Raquin</i>.</p> <p>It is a typical nook—sordid, dingy, and malodorous, but strangely attractive, with its fried-potato sellers and Italian modellers. The @@ -2350,14 +2311,14 @@ Institute, and it is impossible to walk along the interminable black-looking wall enclosing it, on the side of the Rue Mazarine, without thinking of the painful paragraph in the preface of the <i>Fils Naturel</i>, wherein the younger Dumas, speaking of his childhood, recalls -the souvenir of the return from the first performance, at the Odéon, of +the souvenir of the return from the first performance, at the Odéon, of <i>Charles VI. chez ses grands vassaux</i>, on the 20th of October 1831.</p> <p>The evening had been a stormy one, and the success of the play was doubtful. Consequently, a continuation of their poverty was to be expected. Alexandre Dumas had heavy burdens to support—his mother, a household, a child. He had to live himself and to keep his family on the -meagre salary his situation under the Duke<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a><br /><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a><br /><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> d'Orléans procured him. It +meagre salary his situation under the Duke<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a><br /><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a><br /><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> d'Orléans procured him. It was not of his talents but of his star that he doubted; and the younger Dumas always remembered his father's broad shadow cast by the moon on the dark, gloomy wall of the Institute, and himself timidly guessing at @@ -2366,16 +2327,16 @@ legs, to follow and keep up with the studies of the good-natured giant.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 349px;"><a name="ILL_048" id="ILL_048"></a> <img src="images/ill_048.jpg" width="349" height="500" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE RUE DES PRÊTRES-SAINT-SÉVERIN IN 1866<br /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE DES PRÊTRES-SAINT-SÉVERIN IN 1866<br /> <i>Drawn by A. Maignan</i></span> </div> -<p>It was in the Rue Guénégaud, in the Hôtel Britannique, that Madame +<p>It was in the Rue Guénégaud, in the Hôtel Britannique, that Madame Roland took up her quarters in 1791. There, joyous and confident in the future, she opened her political <i>salon</i>. What a pleasure for the little Manon to show to all the Pont-Neuf neighbourhood, where her childhood had been spent, that she had become a lady and received people of mark. -Brissot, Buzot, Pétion, Robespierre, Danton himself, were pleased to +Brissot, Buzot, Pétion, Robespierre, Danton himself, were pleased to come, between two sittings, and talk at this amiable woman's house; and I fancy what attracted them was far more the pretty Parisian's qualities than the virtues of the austere husband, who must have been a great @@ -2390,7 +2351,7 @@ some ancient abodes; but it has lost the singular house called the <i>Red Castle</i>, or more prosaically, "the Guillotine."</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span></p> <p>In what was, during the seventeenth century, a sumptuous dwelling—the -mansion, 'tis said, of Gabrielle d'Estrées—behind the huge, tall front +mansion, 'tis said, of Gabrielle d'Estrées—behind the huge, tall front steps at the back of the courtyard, was the dingy, smoky habitation, stinking of wine, dirt, debauch, and vice.</p> @@ -2409,7 +2370,7 @@ building and sanitary improvements have done away with the "Red Castle."</p> <i>Etching by Martial</i></span> </div> -<p>The Rue Saint-Séverin is a picturesque medley of old houses round the +<p>The Rue Saint-Séverin is a picturesque medley of old houses round the ancient Gothic church—"that flora of stone"—one of the most curious perhaps in Paris; one of those that best preserve the traces of a past of art, devotion, and prayer.</p> @@ -2417,8 +2378,8 @@ of art, devotion, and prayer.</p> <p>The sublime artists who, in several centuries, knew how to create the forest of fine carvings with which the apse is adorned, have, alas! left but sorry successors. By the side of old painted glass windows, brought -from the church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, other cold, modern stained -windows of loud colour have taken from Saint-Séverin's the religious, +from the church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, other cold, modern stained +windows of loud colour have taken from Saint-Séverin's the religious, poetical mysteriousness, the inviting half-obscurity that appeal to the soul of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a><br /><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a><br /><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> believer; and their crude light renders only too visible the marks of successive mutilations inflicted on this fine church. In @@ -2434,12 +2395,12 @@ floats in the air at the corners of the various cross-roads; bars and petty restaurants are thronged with customers. Part of the money begged or stolen in Paris is spent there.</p> -<p>Saint-Médard's church is quite close, with its small, dusty, quaint +<p>Saint-Médard's church is quite close, with its small, dusty, quaint Square, and its round tower at the end of the Rue Monge and the corner of the Rue Mouffetard. It is a gloomy, rat-gnawed, poverty-stricken church, looking as if worn-out with age; and is blocked in by old houses covered with gaudy-coloured advertisements. It has left, far behind in -the past, the days when the tomb of the Deacon Pâris in it performed its +the past, the days when the tomb of the Deacon Pâris in it performed its miracles, when the townsfolk and courtfolk crowded in the small graveyard, a door of which still exists, the one perhaps whereon was written the famous couplet:—</p> @@ -2463,8 +2424,8 @@ middle of the road; carriage traffic is rare. Housewives gossip on their doorsteps, people live together—and in the street. The Passage<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a><br /><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a><br /><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> des Patriarches, which opens at No. 99, was famous in days of yore. The Calvinists, who used to preach there, had bloody quarrels with the -Catholics of Saint-Médard's. To-day, it is nothing but a dank, dirty, -melancholy alley, inhabited by bric-à-brac dealers, old-iron sellers, +Catholics of Saint-Médard's. To-day, it is nothing but a dank, dirty, +melancholy alley, inhabited by bric-à -brac dealers, old-iron sellers, and petty hucksters; and smells of rags, old lead, and cauliflower!</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 325px;"><a name="ILL_051" id="ILL_051"></a> @@ -2507,8 +2468,8 @@ At the corner of the Colbert Mansion<br /> <i>Etching by Martial</i></span> </div> -<p>Not far from this spot, the Rue Maître-Albert—which up to 1844 was -called the Rue Perdue—owes its present name to the Dominican Maître +<p>Not far from this spot, the Rue Maître-Albert—which up to 1844 was +called the Rue Perdue—owes its present name to the Dominican Maître Albert who, in the thirteenth century, taught in the open air in Maubert Square. It contains curious houses, to-day dens for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a><br /><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a><br /><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a><br /><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a><br /><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> tramps, who spend the night in them. In 1819, an old negro of miserable appearance @@ -2534,14 +2495,14 @@ this gloomy Rue Perdue, and died there on the 7th of February 1820.</p> <p>The two churches nearest the spot are those of Saint-Nicolas-du-Chardonneret and Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre. Connected with the former is a dismal little seminary, in which, under the guidance of -the Abbé Dupanloup, the eminent philosopher Ernest Renan went through +the Abbé Dupanloup, the eminent philosopher Ernest Renan went through part of his theological studies. Every one should read in the <i>Souvenirs of my Childhood and Youth</i> the admirable pages this marvellous writer has devoted to his stay in this studious home. "The parish, which derived its name from the field of thistles well known of the students at the Paris University in the Middle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> Ages, was then the centre of a rich quarter inhabited chiefly by the legal profession. The -boarding-school <i>régime</i> weighed heavily upon me. My best friend, a +boarding-school <i>régime</i> weighed heavily upon me. My best friend, a young man from Coutances, I think, like myself, full of enthusiasm, and of excellent heart, held himself aloof, refused to reconcile himself, and died. The Savoy students showed themselves still less @@ -2570,7 +2531,7 @@ memory!</p> <p>The church of Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is set apart for the Greek ritual. Enclosed on its sides and rear by the ancient buildings of the -Hôtel-Dieu, this melancholy-looking chapel is falling to ruin; a +Hôtel-Dieu, this melancholy-looking chapel is falling to ruin; a stopped-up well with meagre weeds growing from its border-stones seems to guard the door, which opens on a dirty, rubbish-strewn courtyard where a few half-starved fowls peck their scanty meal. It is a nook of @@ -2616,7 +2577,7 @@ railings his gluttonous trunk in search of rolls.</p> <p>The bear-pit has not changed; and the crowd of idlers continue to tempt the eternal "Martin" to climb up the same tree. Still to the noisy children the delightful labyrinth offers its capricious meandering; and -the cedar of Lebanon (<i>Cedrus Libani</i>) [Linnæus], which tradition tells +the cedar of Lebanon (<i>Cedrus Libani</i>) [Linnæus], which tradition tells us Monsieur Jussieu brought back in his hat, has not ceased to wave its ample branches over dreamers, loungers, workers, or grisette—the grisette that comes and sits beneath its venerable shade to read the @@ -2645,7 +2606,7 @@ the dust of the past! To-day, alas! these rooms, flowering with sculpture, are closed and forsaken; a part of their wainscoting has disappeared.... Where have decorations so pleasing gone?... Why these everlasting, culpable mutilations, which I know are a grief to Monsieur -Périer, the eminent Director of the Museum? The collections of +Périer, the eminent Director of the Museum? The collections of butterflies are now transferred to the vast and sumptuous central hall of the new pavilion devoted to natural history. I liked them better in the charming rooms which once contained them and suited them so well!</p> @@ -2696,32 +2657,32 @@ round it: ivy, birthwort honeysuckle, lianes of all kinds caparisoned it with verdure. They are carpets, cascades of glossy green, shining together: a nosegay of leaves in a garden.</p> -<p>Behind the Jardin des Plantes is Salpêtrière with its walls of evil -memory, the Salpêtrière of the September massacres, the Salpêtrière +<p>Behind the Jardin des Plantes is Salpêtrière with its walls of evil +memory, the Salpêtrière of the September massacres, the Salpêtrière whence Madame de Lamotte so easily escaped after her condemnation; with its broad gardens and its ugly covered-yards surrounded by railings, where, as De Goncourt said, "Women madder than their fellows" are confined. The dome, visible from everywhere, commands, like a lighthouse -of misery, all this quarter infected by the Bièvre, the poor, sacrificed -river, which is now in part walled over; the oily Bièvre, streaked with +of misery, all this quarter infected by the Bièvre, the poor, sacrificed +river, which is now in part walled over; the oily Bièvre, streaked with tannery acids, reddened by skins of sheep recently flayed that steep in -it; the Bièvre which flows miserably and sordidly, but yet so +it; the Bièvre which flows miserably and sordidly, but yet so picturesquely, amidst starch factories, fellmongers' stores and other works, after traversing the tiny gardens of Gentilly and creating the -illusion of a landscape in the quarter of the Fontaine-à-Mulard.</p> +illusion of a landscape in the quarter of the Fontaine-à -Mulard.</p> <p>Gone is the time when this ill-starred river washed the banks of smiling meadows and reflected the willows in its clear waters. Tamed, domesticated, adapted to tasks of every sort, unceasingly used by tanners, curriers, tawers, dyers, it flows dirty and putrid! To follow -it in its windings, the Rue du Moulin-des-Prés must be ascended, and +it in its windings, the Rue du Moulin-des-Prés must be ascended, and entrance made into the Rue de Tolbiac.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> There, through a gate, it enters a dark, dismal passage, whence it will issue only to glide in a kind of sinister-looking canal between black, repulsive manufactories. Here and there, along the scanty banks, a few washerwomen have fixed their tubs on a level with the water, and sing as they dolly their linen; elsewhere, wretched urchins endeavour to catch a stray fish that might -have lost its way in the mephitic stream. Then the Bièvre disappears +have lost its way in the mephitic stream. Then the Bièvre disappears once again and this time underground, coming to view afresh in the Rue des Gobelins. At this spot, some rare traces of a glorious past are discovered. The ancient houses have many of them remained. But how often @@ -2730,17 +2691,17 @@ river, have taken possession of the houses bordering it.</p> <div class="figleft" style="width: 301px;"><a name="ILL_059" id="ILL_059"></a> <img src="images/ill_059.jpg" width="301" height="400" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE RUE DE BIÈVRE<br /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE DE BIÈVRE<br /> <i>Drawn by Heidbrendk</i></span> </div> <p>Offices, warehouses, leather stores have invaded the noble mansions of -the sixteenth century, and the Bièvre winds, as if ashamed, through poor +the sixteenth century, and the Bièvre winds, as if ashamed, through poor gardens, like it, fallen from their antique splendour.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 292px;"><a name="ILL_060" id="ILL_060"></a> <img src="images/ill_060.jpg" width="292" height="500" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE BIÈVRE TANNERIES<br /> +<span class="caption">THE BIÈVRE TANNERIES<br /> <i>Etching by Martial</i></span> </div> @@ -2752,7 +2713,7 @@ heavy wheels, or washes ghastly offal, amidst a smell as of barege. Finally, it runs to earth once more beneath the Hospital Boulevard, within evil-smelling, dark holes.</p> -<p>But before the last fall, the Bièvre passes through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a><br /><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a><br /><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> an astonishingly +<p>But before the last fall, the Bièvre passes through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a><br /><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a><br /><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> an astonishingly strange lane, one of the oddest in this odd quarter: the Ruelle des Gobelins. It flows as a stream of red, green, and yellow tints, between patched-up, mouldy, tumble-down houses, in an odour of ammonia. And yet, @@ -2779,12 +2740,12 @@ clearings of other streets.</p> <div class="figleft" style="width: 396px;"><a name="ILL_061" id="ILL_061"></a> <img src="images/ill_061.jpg" width="396" height="500" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE BIÈVRE ABOUT 1900—THE VALENCE MILL-RACE<br /> +<span class="caption">THE BIÈVRE ABOUT 1900—THE VALENCE MILL-RACE<br /> <i>Schaan, pinxit</i> (Carnavalet Museum)</span> </div> <p>Once, these spacious grounds were one stretch of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> flower gardens and -market gardens watered by the Bièvre.</p> +market gardens watered by the Bièvre.</p> <p>In a most interesting book, somewhat forgotten now, Alfred Delvau tells us much of the former history, under Louis-Philippe, of the @@ -2792,7 +2753,7 @@ Saint-Marceau faubourg, the Butte-aux-Cailles, the Rue Croulebarde, and also the Rue du Champ-de-l'Alouette, in which last street the "Shepherdess of Ivry" was murdered, the crime by its bizarre character producing a deep impression in the Capital in 1827. It was a -public-house waiter, Honoré Ulbach, who had stabbed a girl, Aimée Millot +public-house waiter, Honoré Ulbach, who had stabbed a girl, Aimée Millot by name; she, as a keeper of goats, was popular at Ivry. Every day, she was to be seen, with a large straw hat on her head and a book in her hand, tending her mistress's goats. The "Shepherdess of Ivry" she was @@ -2807,9 +2768,9 @@ recently arrived at the King's Garden was neglected for the Ivry drama.</p> <p>On the 27th of July, Ulbach, who seems to have been half-mad, was condemned to death; and, at four o'clock in the evening on the 10th of -September, he was executed on the Grève Square.</p> +September, he was executed on the Grève Square.</p> -<p>A Municipal Crèche, in the Rue des Gobelins,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a><br /><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a><br /><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> occupies, at No. 3, a +<p>A Municipal Crèche, in the Rue des Gobelins,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a><br /><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a><br /><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> occupies, at No. 3, a fine Louis XIII. mansion, once inhabited by the Marquis of Saint-Mesme, a lieutenant-general and the husband of Elizabeth Gobelin, close to a handsome lordly-looking building which in the quarter bears the name of @@ -2835,14 +2796,14 @@ Court. He excelled in combining business and pleasure. An illustrious marriage seemed to him essential to people's forgetting his low origin and the rapid rise of his fortunes. He married the "fair Limeuil," one of the most seductive beauties of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> Queen's flying squadron—"All of -them capable of setting the whole world on fire," said Brantôme. This +them capable of setting the whole world on fire," said Brantôme. This attractive person had been successively courted by the most noble lords -of the Court before effecting the conquest of Condé, by whom she had a +of the Court before effecting the conquest of Condé, by whom she had a child. At Dijon, during one of the Queen's receptions, Mademoiselle de Limeuil was taken ill and was delivered of a boy. "It is inexplicable," -writes Mézeray, "that such a prudent woman should have so +writes Mézeray, "that such a prudent woman should have so miscalculated." There was a scandal; the Queen Mother was indignant; the -fair Isabella was imprisoned; but Condé who was still amorous, succeeded +fair Isabella was imprisoned; but Condé who was still amorous, succeeded in effecting her escape. The Protestants, however, were on the watch, and induced their leader to give up his too compromising mistress. Then it was that Scipio Sardini came forward, the richest man of the period, @@ -2850,7 +2811,7 @@ the King's banker, as also the nobles' and clergy's. He managed to get himself accepted; the marriage took place; and he settled in this pretty mansion that we still admire, and that is mentioned by Sauval as one of the most beautiful in Paris, amidst vineyards, orchards, and fields -bordering on the Bièvre. There he lived, surrounded by luxury, works of +bordering on the Bièvre. There he lived, surrounded by luxury, works of art, books and flowers, and died there about 1609. As early as 1636, the mansion was converted into a hospital, which in 1742 was once more transformed, this time into a bakery. To-day, it is the Bakery of the @@ -2861,9 +2822,9 @@ bank of the river, respectfully pause on the Stockade Bridge, close to the small monument<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a><br /><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a><br /><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> erected to the famous sculptor Barye by his admirers,—to the great Barye who, misunderstood and mocked, sold up by his creditors, often came in the evening, after leaving his modest -studio on the Célestins Quay, to forget his sufferings and muse in this +studio on the Célestins Quay, to forget his sufferings and muse in this same place before the splendid panorama of Paris crowned by the grand -silhouette of the Panthéon. Here, too, is one of the City's best views.</p> +silhouette of the Panthéon. Here, too, is one of the City's best views.</p> <hr class="tb" /> @@ -2921,7 +2882,7 @@ from the old to modern Paris.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 379px;"><a name="ILL_064" id="ILL_064"></a> <img src="images/ill_064.jpg" width="379" height="400" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE LESDIGUIÈRES MANSION</span> +<span class="caption">THE LESDIGUIÈRES MANSION</span> </div> <p>Notwithstanding its warlike name, the Arsenal quarter is one of the most @@ -2936,12 +2897,12 @@ cod-liver oil and woollen socks to poor, suffering children; the Rue des Lions-Saint-Paul;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> the Rue Beautreillis, where Victorien Sardou was born; near there the great Balzac dwelt. "I was then living," he says in his admirable <i>Facino Cane</i>, "in a small street you probably don't know, -the Rue de Lesdiguières. It commences at the Rue Saint-Antoine, opposite +the Rue de Lesdiguières. It commences at the Rue Saint-Antoine, opposite a fountain near the Place de la Bastille, and issues in the Rue de la Cerisaie. Love of knowledge had driven me into a garret, where I worked during the night, and spent the day in a neighbouring library, that of <i>Monsieur</i>. When it was fine, I took rare walks on the Bourdon -Boulevard." This modest Rue de Lesdiguières still exists in part; on the +Boulevard." This modest Rue de Lesdiguières still exists in part; on the site occupied by Nos. 8 and 10, could be seen, a few years ago, one of the containing walls of the Bastille; narrow houses have been stuck against it; and, at No. 10, it is the very wall of the old Parisian @@ -2974,16 +2935,16 @@ in addition...!</p> <p>Let us add that the curators—Henri Martin, so learned and obliging, Funck-Brentano, the exquisite historian of the Bastille, the picturesque -relater of all its dramas. Sheffer and Eugène Muller are not only +relater of all its dramas. Sheffer and Eugène Muller are not only scholars needing no praise but most courteous and genial men—and you will quite understand why the Arsenal is one of the few corners in Paris where it is delightful to go and work or to saunter about. Indeed, it is a tradition of the house. Nodier, good old Nodier, who was one of Monsieur de Bornier's predecessors and a predecessor also of J. M. de Heredia, the master who has so recently gone from us, Nodier, the -admirable author of the <i>Trophées</i>, had succeeded in making the Arsenal +admirable author of the <i>Trophées</i>, had succeeded in making the Arsenal the centre of literary and artistic Paris. Hugo, Lamartine, de Musset, -Balzac, Méry, de Vigny, and Fr. Soulié used to meet there; and fine +Balzac, Méry, de Vigny, and Fr. Soulié used to meet there; and fine verses were said while regarding the sun glow with red flame behind the towers of Notre Dame.</p> @@ -2995,22 +2956,22 @@ towers of Notre Dame.</p> <p>Of the Bastille nothing remains except a few stones which formed the substructure of one of the old towers; and these have been carefully -removed to the Célestins Quay, along the Seine, where they are visible +removed to the Célestins Quay, along the Seine, where they are visible to-day. In vain, therefore, would any one now seek for a vestige of the sombre fortress over which so many legends hovered. Latude's great shade itself would hardly locate the spot; and yet how full Paris history is of this traditional Bastille, which the people, amazed with their easy victory, could not tire of visiting after the 15th of July 1789. Such -was their curiosity and such their eagerness that Soulès, the governor +was their curiosity and such their eagerness that Soulès, the governor appointed by the Parisian municipality, was compelled to stop the visits, on the curious ground "that such damage had already been done to the fortress by visitors that more than 200,000 livres would be required -to repair it." Repair the Bastille! The souvenir manuscripts of Paré +to repair it." Repair the Bastille! The souvenir manuscripts of Paré tell us the fury excited by this strange pretension in Danton, sergeant of a section of the National Guard, who, with his company, was turned back by the order.</p> -<p>Danton had himself admitted into the presence of the unfortunate Soulès, +<p>Danton had himself admitted into the presence of the unfortunate Soulès, seized him by the collar and dragged him to the Town Hall; the prohibition was removed; and Citizen Palloy was thenceforth allowed to exploit the celebrated State prison. The stones were "hewn and cut into @@ -3038,7 +2999,7 @@ had constructed there, in 1811, by Alavoine, a strange sort of fountain of bizarre appearance: it was a colossal elephant, twenty-four metres high, which spouted water from its trunk. Built temporarily in plaster and mud, the elephant quickly crumbled away under the action of weather -and rain; and soon became a lamentable débris surrounded with disjointed +and rain; and soon became a lamentable débris surrounded with disjointed planks. The urchins of the district made it the scene of Homeric struggles; but the real familiars were the rats that had made their home inside the structure, so that, when the demolition began, regular @@ -3054,12 +3015,12 @@ the victims of 1830 that are interred within the crypt of the monument.</p> <i>From a lithograph by Rouargue</i></span> </div> -<p>The Rue Saint-Antoine contains certain handsome<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a><br /><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a><br /><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> mansions: the Cossé -mansion, where Quélus died; the Mayenne and Ormesson mansion, built by +<p>The Rue Saint-Antoine contains certain handsome<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a><br /><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a><br /><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> mansions: the Cossé +mansion, where Quélus died; the Mayenne and Ormesson mansion, built by du Cerceau on the remains of the Saint-Paul mansion and Germain Pilon's studio; the Sully mansion, whose noble front was not long ago mutilated. Hard by, at the corner of the Rue du Figuier and the picturesque Rue de -l'Hôtel de Ville, which latter used to be the Rue de la Mortellerie, +l'Hôtel de Ville, which latter used to be the Rue de la Mortellerie, stands what is left of the Sens mansion, the only specimen, together with the Cluny Museum, of what private architecture was in the fifteenth century. After being inhabited by Princes of the Church, Bishops, @@ -3070,7 +3031,7 @@ was attributed to Lesurques, the unfortunate Lesurques popularised by the well-known drama performed at the Ambigu, which caused so many tears to flow.</p> -<p>In more recent times, the Hôtel de Sens derogated further still. It +<p>In more recent times, the Hôtel de Sens derogated further still. It became a manufactory of sweets!</p> <p>At No. 5 of the Rue du Figuier, we meet with a draw-well, the top of @@ -3079,7 +3040,7 @@ the admirable Rabelais, who died quite near, in the Rue des Jardins. At No. 15, opened the sixteenth-century door through which the actors of the illustrious theatre established on the ancient site of the Jeu de Paume de la Croix-Noire, proceeded to their private stage-room. It was -before this door that Molière was arrested and taken to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> Châtelet, +before this door that Molière was arrested and taken to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> Châtelet, because he owed "142 livres to Antoine Fausseur, master-chandler, his purveyor of light."</p> @@ -3090,7 +3051,7 @@ barricade, on the 3rd of December 1851. At No. 303, in the reign of Napoleon I., stood Dr. Dubuisson's private hospital, where General Malet was confined. There he hatched the prodigious plot the disconcerting history of which we intend shortly to relate. Farther on, near the Rue -de Montreuil, we pass by the remains of Réveillon's wall-paper stores, +de Montreuil, we pass by the remains of Réveillon's wall-paper stores, pillaged on the 17th of April 1789; it was one of the preludes of the Revolution.</p> @@ -3100,14 +3061,14 @@ Only those were admitted who could pay and pay well. The irrefutable memoirs of Monsieur de Saint-Aulaine reveal to us a Belhomme familiar, cynical, exacting his fees and thouing Duchesses short of money who haggled with him on the question of their life. The most amiable of -historians, my excellent friend G. Lenôtre, whom it is always necessary +historians, my excellent friend G. Lenôtre, whom it is always necessary to quote when facts of the Revolutionary epoch are in question, has reconstituted the terrible and surprising story of the Belhomme institution where they laughed, danced, or even flirted under the dread eye of Fouquier-Tinville; and has related, with his habitual -documentation, the bizarre liaison of the Duchess of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> Orléans, widow of -Louis-Philippe Egalité, with Rouzet, the Conventional, buried later at -Dreux under the name of the "Count de Folmon" in the Orléans family +documentation, the bizarre liaison of the Duchess of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> Orléans, widow of +Louis-Philippe Egalité, with Rouzet, the Conventional, buried later at +Dreux under the name of the "Count de Folmon" in the Orléans family vault.</p> <p>Pursuing our way and passing by the Church of Sainte Marguerite, in @@ -3116,8 +3077,8 @@ of the Throne (the Throne overthrown, people said in 1793). The scaffold, which had temporarily quitted the Revolution Square, was put up here during the most terrible period of the Terror, and the "great batches" were executed upon it. In six weeks, 1300 victims perished, -among them, André Chénier, the Baron de Trenck, the Abbess of -Montmorency, Cécile Renaud, Madame de Sainte-Amaranthe, the poet +among them, André Chénier, the Baron de Trenck, the Abbess of +Montmorency, Cécile Renaud, Madame de Sainte-Amaranthe, the poet Roucher, and many others. The bodies of these unfortunate people, stripped of their clothing, were loaded each evening on covered waggons, with their severed heads between their legs; and the horrible vehicle, @@ -3152,7 +3113,7 @@ contrast to the poor, low houses that huddle round it. Fowls peck at the foot of the fifteenth-century turrets, which enclose a handsome staircase; and patched linen dries on iron wire stretched between the caryatide windows of the seventeenth century, replacing those behind -which once mused the Duke d'Orléans and the Duke de Berri, as also, in +which once mused the Duke d'Orléans and the Duke de Berri, as also, in 1409, Jean de Montaigu, beheaded for sorcery! who were formerly illustrious guests in this elegant dwelling.</p> @@ -3160,15 +3121,15 @@ illustrious guests in this elegant dwelling.</p> Bastille. It is another rare nook of our old City, which, through the centuries, has preserved its ancient character very nearly intact. The houses there, in Louis XIII. style, have not changed. The scenery has -remained the same. The <i>Précieuses</i> could take their favourite walks +remained the same. The <i>Précieuses</i> could take their favourite walks there; and those punctilious in honour might draw their sword, as in the time of Richelieu and the Edict-malcontents; only the public<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a><br /><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a><br /><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> of spectators would be quite different. The fine ladies of the country hight Tender, the Cydalises and Aramynthas, the lords once living in those noble dwellings, they who, on the 16th of March 1612, were present -at the tournament given by the Queen Regent, Marie de Médici, in honour +at the tournament given by the Queen Regent, Marie de Médici, in honour of the peace concluded with Spain, or they who proceeded in grand -coaches to the fair Marion de Lorme's or to Madame de Sévigné's, are +coaches to the fair Marion de Lorme's or to Madame de Sévigné's, are to-day replaced by petty annuitants, modest shopkeepers retired from business and pensioned-off officers. Humble charwomen work at their tasks in the spots where Mazarin's nieces paused in their sedan-chairs; @@ -3187,14 +3148,14 @@ in some Jewish families.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_068" id="ILL_068"></a> <img src="images/ill_068.jpg" width="600" height="281" alt="" /> <span class="caption">THE PLACE ROYALE ABOUT 1651 (NOW THE VOSGES SQUARE)<br /> -<i>Israël, del.</i></span> +<i>Israël, del.</i></span> </div> <p>The old-time animation, however, is an exception. The Vosges Square, once the Place Royale, where Richelieu lived and Fronsac, Chabannes, Marshal de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> Chaulnes, Rohan-Chabot, Rotrou, Dangeau, Canillac, the -Prince de Talmont and Mademoiselle du Châtelet, where Madame de Sévigné -was born, where the tragic actress Rachel dwelt, and Théophile Gautier +Prince de Talmont and Mademoiselle du Châtelet, where Madame de Sévigné +was born, where the tragic actress Rachel dwelt, and Théophile Gautier and Victor Hugo, is to-day completely neglected; and this delightful Paris nook, where so much wit was spent, such fine ladies rivalled in grace and elegance and so many exquisites drew their swords, is now @@ -3205,7 +3166,7 @@ beneath the debonair shadow of Louis XIII.'s statue, with its philosophic frame of a Punch-and-Judy show and a chair-woman's stall.</p> <p>In the ancient Rue Culture-Sainte-Catherine (at present called the Rue -de Sévigné) on the site now occupied by No. 11, formerly stood the +de Sévigné) on the site now occupied by No. 11, formerly stood the Marais theatre, built with money provided by Beaumarchais. In 1792, the <i>Guilty Mother</i> was performed there, for the benefit, said the play-bill, "of the first soldier who shall send citizen Beaumarchais an @@ -3217,20 +3178,20 @@ establishment, is the old wall of the Force Prison, where, on a post at the corner of the Rue des Balais, Madame de Lamballe was executed, where also Madame de Tallien was transferred, and Princess de Tarente was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a><br /><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a><br /><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> confined, the latter, the grandmother of the kind, courteous and learned -Duke de la Trémoïlle, who had only to dip into his incomparable family +Duke de la Trémoïlle, who had only to dip into his incomparable family archives to give us the most precious documents of French history, and to whom we are indebted for those picturesque and exciting "Souvenirs of Madame de Tarente," one of the most valuable narrations by an eye-witness of the Revolutionary period.</p> -<p>The Carnavalet mansion, Madame de Sévigné's "dear Carnavalette," is +<p>The Carnavalet mansion, Madame de Sévigné's "dear Carnavalette," is close by, as also the ancient Le Peletier-Saint-Fargeau mansion, to-day the City of Paris Library. It is a fine, large building of noble appearance, which contains wonderful books, maps, plans and manuscripts. The written history of Paris is there; and all workers know the pretty, sculpture-ornamented room of Monsieur le Vayer, the erudite, obliging -Curator of these fine collections. Messieurs Poète, Beaurepaire, Jacob, -Jarach and Wilhem, in the Library; Messieurs Pètre and Stirling in the +Curator of these fine collections. Messieurs Poète, Beaurepaire, Jacob, +Jarach and Wilhem, in the Library; Messieurs Pètre and Stirling in the History room are the wise and welcoming hosts of this admirable Parisian Library.</p> @@ -3239,7 +3200,7 @@ which, alas! has been respected. All are given over to business and manufacturing. The Lamoignon mansion is occupied by glass-polishers and garden-seatmakers; the Albret mansion by a bronze lamp-dealer; those of Tallard, Maulevrier, Sauvigny, Brevannes, Epernon, &c., are still -standing, but in what a state! The Rue des Nonnains-d'Hyères offers us +standing, but in what a state! The Rue des Nonnains-d'Hyères offers us its curious bass-relief, in painted stone, representing a knife-grinder<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> in eighteenth-century costume. In 1748, a Madame de Pannelier kept a "wit-office" in this same street; Lalande, Sautereau, Guichard, Leclerc @@ -3247,7 +3208,7 @@ de Merry used to attend meetings there. They were held on Wednesdays, and were preceded by an excellent dinner. The tradition has happily been preserved in Paris.</p> -<p>In the Rue François-Miron, one sees a spacious, handsome mansion with +<p>In the Rue François-Miron, one sees a spacious, handsome mansion with circular pediment, escutcheons and garlands. It is the Beauvais mansion, built by Le Pautre in 1658.</p> @@ -3257,12 +3218,12 @@ the entrance gate and that, from the top of the central pavilion balcony, Queen Anne of Austria, in company with the Queen of England, Cardinal Mazarin, Marshal de Turenne and other illustrious nobles, had watched her son Louis XIV. and her daughter-in-law, the new Queen -Marie-Thérèse of Austria, go by as they made, through Saint-Antoine's +Marie-Thérèse of Austria, go by as they made, through Saint-Antoine's Gate, their solemn entry into Paris on the 26th of August 1660!<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> <p>On account of its picturesque aspect and the fine mansions it contains, the Rue Geoffroy-l'Asnier is one of the most curious in Paris. At No. 26 -stands the Châlons-Luxembourg mansion, with its monumental door and +stands the Châlons-Luxembourg mansion, with its monumental door and wonderful knocker. At the bottom of the courtyard is an exceedingly elegant Louis XIII. pavilion in brick and stone, and of delicate proportions. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> mansion was built for the second Constable of @@ -3321,7 +3282,7 @@ this strange kitchen beneath these antique Gothic arches, between these blackened pillars still bearing traces of the candles that once burned in front of the holy images, on a ground formerly used for burying and even now concealing bones. The out-offices of the old church still -remain, wonderfully picturesque, and open into the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> Rue François-Miron, +remain, wonderfully picturesque, and open into the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> Rue François-Miron, No. 2, on the left of the entrance portal of the church, between a laundress's establishment and a furniture-remover's premises!</p> @@ -3332,7 +3293,7 @@ The Rue Paradis-des-Francs-Bourgeois and the Rue Vieille-du-Temple in 1866<br /> <i>Drawn by A. Maignan</i></span> </div> -<p>On one side, the little Rue de l'Hôtel-de-Ville brings us to the Rue +<p>On one side, the little Rue de l'Hôtel-de-Ville brings us to the Rue Vieille-du-Temple, where we can admire, at No. 47, what is left of the quaint mansion of the Dutch Ambassadors, where "Monsieur Caron de Beaumarchais and Madame his spouse," as an almanac of 1787 called them, @@ -3340,7 +3301,7 @@ established in 1784 a Provident Institution for poor nursing mothers. Indeed, it was for the benefit of this undertaking that the fiftieth performance of the <i>Mariage de Figaro</i> was given. Farther on, to the right, at the corner of the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, stands the pretty -turret built about 1500 for Jean Hérouet; and, last of all, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> fine +turret built about 1500 for Jean Hérouet; and, last of all, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> fine Rohan palace, which to-day is the National Printing House. This last is a noble and spacious building which the elegant Cardinal that once lived in it took pleasure in sumptuously decorating. A masterpiece may be seen @@ -3370,8 +3331,8 @@ the gloomy street he rushed with absolutely nothing on.</p> <p>The little house still exists, wretched and dingy-looking, where Malet appointed to meet his accomplices, on the third floor in the abode of -the Abbé Cajamanos, an old bewildered Spanish priest who had quitted the -Bicêtre asylum.</p> +the Abbé Cajamanos, an old bewildered Spanish priest who had quitted the +Bicêtre asylum.</p> <p>This adventure of General Malet's is both prodigious and disconcerting. For, in 1812, at the moment when Napoleon seemed to be at the summit of @@ -3562,7 +3523,7 @@ sold. The nook is a quaint one, and the quarter also, with its remains of the Rue de la Grande-Truanderie, where, on the 10th of May 1797, one of the ancestors of Communism, Babœuf, was arrested.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span></p> -<p>Not far away used to be the Rue de la Tonnellerie, where Molière lived. +<p>Not far away used to be the Rue de la Tonnellerie, where Molière lived. This street disappeared when the Rue Turbigo was cut.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILL_076" id="ILL_076"></a> @@ -3631,11 +3592,11 @@ severity be shown? There was a good deal of intriguing and excitement; but, finally, the Lieutenant for criminal affairs, acting on the orders of the Regent, arrested the Count de Horn, on the 22nd of March 1720; and, four days after, the latter was broken on the wheel and executed in -the centre of the Grève Square, amidst the applause of all Paris.</p> +the centre of the Grève Square, amidst the applause of all Paris.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_078" id="ILL_078"></a> <img src="images/ill_078.jpg" width="600" height="422" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">MOLIÈRE'S HOUSE IN THE RUE DE LA TONNELLERIE<br /> +<span class="caption">MOLIÈRE'S HOUSE IN THE RUE DE LA TONNELLERIE<br /> <i>Water-colour by Hervier</i></span> </div> @@ -3649,7 +3610,7 @@ wretched fragments, the life of luxury, fever and stock-jobbing that once filled this old street, now foul with chemical smells and rancid odours of fried potatoes.</p> -<p>Collé's prophecy has been fulfilled: "One no longer belongs to Paris +<p>Collé's prophecy has been fulfilled: "One no longer belongs to Paris when one belongs to the Marais!"</p> <p>Trade has laid hold of the fine mansions of yore; druggists have set up @@ -3778,11 +3739,11 @@ women rival with each other in grace, manners and toilet, the latter of the strangest names; and the draughtsman Briou can write below a fashion engraving of the period: "The provoking Julia reposing on the Boulevard, while awaiting a stroke of good fortune; she is in morning gown with a -Diana hat that flying hearts adorn." At<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a><br /><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a><br /><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> Alexander's Cafè Royal, there +Diana hat that flying hearts adorn." At<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a><br /><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a><br /><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> Alexander's Cafè Royal, there is supper and dancing; people crowd to listen to Nicolet's patter; and a circle of hearers surround Fanchon, the hurdy-gurdy player. On the same Boulevard, Curtius sets up his luxuriously arranged wax-work saloons; -and, later, the parades of Bobèche and Galimafré will be the joy of +and, later, the parades of Bobèche and Galimafré will be the joy of Paris; for a long time, the fair will continue.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 327px;"><a name="ILL_081" id="ILL_081"></a> @@ -3792,22 +3753,22 @@ Paris; for a long time, the fair will continue.</p> </div> <p>The Ambigu, the Historic Theatre, the Gaiety, the Funambules, the -Olympic Circus, the Little-Lazari, the Délassements Comiques,—ten +Olympic Circus, the Little-Lazari, the Délassements Comiques,—ten theatres or so will add to the excitement with their strange, nervous, grandiloquent, noisy companies of actors. The gay apprentices, at all times fond of plays, will cheer<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> as they go by the heroes of all these dramas and melodramas, so numerous that popular slang had nicknamed as Crime Boulevard the thoroughfare where, at twelve each evening, so much blood flowed on the boards of these theatres. There were Madame Dorval, -Mademoiselle George, Mademoiselle Déjazet, Messieurs Bocage, Mélingue, -Bouffé, Dumaine, Saint-Ernest, Boutin, Colbrun, Lesueur, Deburau—the +Mademoiselle George, Mademoiselle Déjazet, Messieurs Bocage, Mélingue, +Bouffé, Dumaine, Saint-Ernest, Boutin, Colbrun, Lesueur, Deburau—the ideal Pierrot—and also Gobert, so like Napoleon I., as was Taillade, who, thin and nervous, was incarnating Bonaparte. It was the period when the Bonapartist epopee turned people's heads to such an extent that the poor comedian Briand, who, in one of the many Napoleon plays, was acting the ungrateful part of Sir Hudson Lowe, said: "I shall never have a similar success. Yesterday, I was waited for at the theatre door and -thrown into the Château-d'Eau canal basin!"</p> +thrown into the Château-d'Eau canal basin!"</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_082" id="ILL_082"></a> <img src="images/ill_082.jpg" width="600" height="371" alt="" /> @@ -3816,16 +3777,16 @@ thrown into the Château-d'Eau canal basin!"</p> </div> <p>All the quarter waxed enthusiastic about its favourite actors, espoused -their quarrels, repeated their witticisms or their adventures: Frédéric +their quarrels, repeated their witticisms or their adventures: Frédéric Lemaitre especially, a tragic, dare-devil, drinking, extravagant yet talented artist, decking himself in private life, as well as on the -stage, in the frayed-out plumes of Don Cæsar de Bazan, had his own +stage, in the frayed-out plumes of Don Cæsar de Bazan, had his own story. People went into ecstasies over his amours with Clarisse Miroy, interwoven with thrashings and fond tenderness. On the day after one of -these noisy quarrels, Frédéric is said to have rung at his lady-love's +these noisy quarrels, Frédéric is said to have rung at his lady-love's door, which was opened by Clarisse's mother. The good dame, frightened at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> brutal actor's appearance, raised her arm instinctively as if to -ward off a blow.... "I beat you, I!" thundered Frédéric in Richard +ward off a blow.... "I beat you, I!" thundered Frédéric in Richard d'Arlington's tones, "I beat you! Why?... Do I love you?"</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 265px;"><a name="ILL_083" id="ILL_083"></a> @@ -3849,10 +3810,10 @@ kettle-drummer, for the modest salary of forty-five francs a month.</p> </div> <p>Others to perform there were the Davenport brothers and the conjurer -Robin, with their amusing séances of hypnotism and white magic. On this +Robin, with their amusing séances of hypnotism and white magic. On this always-to-be-remembered Temple Boulevard were to be met the various -fashionable authors: Dennery, Théodore Barrière, Victor Séjour, Paul -Féval, Gounod, Berlioz, A. Adam, Clapisson, Saint-Georges, the Cogniard +fashionable authors: Dennery, Théodore Barrière, Victor Séjour, Paul +Féval, Gounod, Berlioz, A. Adam, Clapisson, Saint-Georges, the Cogniard brothers, Clairville; and the great Dumas used to pass in triumph, shaking hands with everybody as he went. The coffee-houses had to turn customers away; orange-sellers made fortunes, while boys sold checks, @@ -3866,10 +3827,10 @@ was the golden age!</p> <p>In 1862, a regrettable decision of Baron Haussmann, the Prefect of the Seine, suppressed this bit of Paris, so lively and gay; and, on the ruins of all these theatres, which brought money and mirth to the -quarter, were built Prince Eugène's barracks, the ugly Hôtel Moderne, +quarter, were built Prince Eugène's barracks, the ugly Hôtel Moderne, and the wretched monument of the Republic Square. Of all this fine, -artistic past nothing is left except the tiny Déjazet Theatre, at the -corner of the Vendôme Passage, and the Turkish Coffee-house; the latter +artistic past nothing is left except the tiny Déjazet Theatre, at the +corner of the Vendôme Passage, and the Turkish Coffee-house; the latter different far from what it was when Bailly depicted it under the Directory. Elegant dames, the Merveilleuses, the Incroyables used to frequent it for the purpose of nibbling an ice or sipping little pots of @@ -3879,18 +3840,18 @@ the quarter took their family to get an idea of the high Parisian life which made the Turkish Coffee-house one of its favourite meeting-places.</p> <p>Restaurants were numerous, being souvenirs of coffee-houses formerly -renowned, like the Godet and Yon cafés. There one found singing and +renowned, like the Godet and Yon cafés. There one found singing and dancing, and, now and again, plotting. It was at the Burgundy Vintage Restaurant in the Temple faubourg, the ordinary rendezvous of Paris wedding-breakfasts or National Guard love-feasts, that—on the 9th of May 1831, at the end of a banquet given to celebrate the acquittal of Guinard, Cavaignac, and the Garnier brothers, charged with plotting -against the State—Évariste<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a><br /><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a><br /><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> Gallois, with a knife in his hand, +against the State—Évariste<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a><br /><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a><br /><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> Gallois, with a knife in his hand, proposed in three words this threatening toast: "To Louis-Philippe!"</p> <p>The great Flaubert lived on the Temple Boulevard at No. 42. There, on Sundays, he gathered his disciples at noisy lunches—Zola, Goncourt, -Daudet, de Maupassant, Huysmans, Céard, George Pouchet—a few yards away +Daudet, de Maupassant, Huysmans, Céard, George Pouchet—a few yards away from a building of tragic fame. No. 50, in fact, was the wretched house whose third-story Venetian blinds concealed Fieschi and the twenty-five pistol barrels loaded with bullets which constituted his infernal @@ -3900,7 +3861,7 @@ terrible. The grocer Morey, who had helped to prepare the monstrous crime, had even taken the useful precaution to damage four of the gun-barrels, whose explosion was to suppress Fieschi himself.</p> -<p>Pépin, another accomplice, had been careful to walk his horse several +<p>Pépin, another accomplice, had been careful to walk his horse several times past the fatal window; and from behind the Venetian blinds, Fieschi, who was an excellent shot, had been able at his ease to regulate the aim of his horrible slaughtering-machine. It was intended @@ -3917,9 +3878,9 @@ blood. More than forty victims lay on the road, among them being the glorious Marshal Mortier, who expired on one of the marble tables in the Turkish Coffee-house, whither the dead and wounded had been transported. Fieschi, who was wounded, was arrested in the backyard of the next -house, while trying to fly through the Rue des Fossés-du-Temple. On the +house, while trying to fly through the Rue des Fossés-du-Temple. On the 19th of February 1836, he ascended the scaffold with his accomplices, -Pépin and Morey.</p> +Pépin and Morey.</p> <p>At the corner of the Temple Boulevard, to the right, in front of the first house in the Voltaire Boulevard, the barricade was raised where @@ -3955,7 +3916,7 @@ the form of an expectant friend.</p> <i>Drawn by A. Maignan</i></span> </div> -<p>Near the Porte Saint-Denis, at the entrance to the narrow Rue de Cléry, +<p>Near the Porte Saint-Denis, at the entrance to the narrow Rue de Cléry, there was formerly a rise in the road, which was the scene of a tragic occurrence. There, on the 21st of January 1793, the intrepid De Batz had appointed to meet a few companions. It was determined that a forlorn @@ -3975,36 +3936,36 @@ managed to escape.</p> <div class="figleft" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILL_087" id="ILL_087"></a> <img src="images/ill_087.jpg" width="500" height="397" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE RUE DE CLÉRY<br /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE DE CLÉRY<br /> <i>Lansyer, pinxit</i></span> </div> -<p>This strange, winding Rue de Cléry, whose thin edge stands out so +<p>This strange, winding Rue de Cléry, whose thin edge stands out so curiously against the sky, was the scene of another drama. The father of -André and Marie-Joseph Chénier lived at No. 97. There, on the 7th of -Thermidor, he was anxiously waiting for the liberation of his son André, +André and Marie-Joseph Chénier lived at No. 97. There, on the 7th of +Thermidor, he was anxiously waiting for the liberation of his son André, who for long months had been a prisoner at Saint-Lazare. The poor man had foolishly taken it into his head to appeal to Collot d'Herbois' heart(!) and to ask him to free his son. Collot d'Herbois had once been an actor; and now, on another sort<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a><br /><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a><br /><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> of stage, revenged himself for -having been hissed. He had not forgotten the lines in which André -Chénier had satirised him in such masterly fashion, but he did not know +having been hissed. He had not forgotten the lines in which André +Chénier had satirised him in such masterly fashion, but he did not know in what prison his enemy was confined. Marie-Joseph, the brother, himself an object of suspicion, had been able to lengthen out the -proceedings and to keep as a secret the place where André was confined. +proceedings and to keep as a secret the place where André was confined. At this supreme hour of the Terror, it was the only possible chance Collot d'Herbois had to satisfy his vengeance; and the information thus unadvisedly but innocently given by the prisoner's father was utilised by the revengeful actor. "To-morrow," Collot assured the unhappy father, "your son shall quit Saint-Lazare." He kept his word; and, on the 7th of Thermidor, just at the hour when the guest was so impatiently expected, -André got into the cart to go to the scaffold, erected that day at the +André got into the cart to go to the scaffold, erected that day at the barrier of the Throne Square.</p> -<p>Round about the picturesque Rue de Cléry, the quarter is an odd medley +<p>Round about the picturesque Rue de Cléry, the quarter is an odd medley of little streets, lanes, and alleys: the Rue Notre-Dame-de-Recouvrance, the Rue Sainte-Foy, the Rue des Petits-Carreaux, the Rue de la Lune, in -which last Balzac lodged his Lucien de Rubempré watching over Coralie's +which last Balzac lodged his Lucien de Rubempré watching over Coralie's dead body, and composing libertine songs, in order to gain the money required for his mistress's funeral.</p> @@ -4026,20 +3987,20 @@ three feathers—one yellow, one black, and one white!</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_088" id="ILL_088"></a> <img src="images/ill_088.jpg" width="600" height="429" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE POISSONNIÈRE BOULEVARD IN 1834<br /> +<span class="caption">THE POISSONNIÈRE BOULEVARD IN 1834<br /> <i>Dagnan, pinxit</i> (Carnavalet Museum)</span> </div> <p>A delightful picture by Dagnan, which is now in the Carnavalet Museum, -shows us the Poissonnière Boulevard in 1834. Most of the houses remain +shows us the Poissonnière Boulevard in 1834. Most of the houses remain to-day; but, alas! the tall, thick-foliaged trees that made the Boulevard a sort of park avenue have long since disappeared. That lover of Paris, Victorien Sardou, who was born in it, and who is cheered, loved, and honoured in it, very well remembers seeing the trees as they used to be, and his long saunterings in front of the Gymnase Theatre. Did he foresee the successes he was to gain with <i>les Ganaches</i>, <i>les -Vieux Garçons</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a><br /><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a><br /><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> <i>les Bons Villageois</i>, <i>Andréa</i>, <i>Féréol</i>, -<i>Séraphine</i>, <i>Fernande</i>, &c.?</p> +Vieux Garçons</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a><br /><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a><br /><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> <i>les Bons Villageois</i>, <i>Andréa</i>, <i>Féréol</i>, +<i>Séraphine</i>, <i>Fernande</i>, &c.?</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_089" id="ILL_089"></a> <img src="images/ill_089.jpg" width="600" height="464" alt="" /> @@ -4049,13 +4010,13 @@ Vieux Garçons</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289 <p>Further on, we come across the ancient Variety Theatre, whose antique front speaks of a glorious past; Duvert, Lauzanne, Bayard, Scribe, -Meilhac, Ludovic Halévy, and, above all, Offenbach, whose haunting music +Meilhac, Ludovic Halévy, and, above all, Offenbach, whose haunting music bewitched Paris for twenty years.</p> -<p>Ludovic Halévy, who was a charming chronicler of Paris life, has left us +<p>Ludovic Halévy, who was a charming chronicler of Paris life, has left us an interesting sketch of the Montmartre Boulevard towards 1810: "The Variety actors had been obliged to quit the Montansier hall; their -vaudevilles had more success than the tragedies at the Théâtre Français. +vaudevilles had more success than the tragedies at the Théâtre Français. The Emperor made a decree depriving them of the Palais-Royal premises; but they were allowed to move to new premises on the Montmartre Boulevard!... A frightful quarter for a theatre!... It was almost in the @@ -4076,8 +4037,8 @@ the country!!.."</p> Boulevard</i>. For idlers, saunterers, wits, clubmen, writers, journalists, under the second Empire, it was a sort of sacred ground. Grammont-Caderousse, the Prince of Orange, Khalil-Bey, Paul<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span> Demidoff, -Aurélien Scholl, Roqueplan, Aubryet, Jules Lecomte, Auguste Villemot -were kings there. The Café Anglais, the Maison Dorée, Tortoni's were +Aurélien Scholl, Roqueplan, Aubryet, Jules Lecomte, Auguste Villemot +were kings there. The Café Anglais, the Maison Dorée, Tortoni's were frequented by the fashionables of society and literature. The gas flared, champagne corks flew, and one had only to open pianos for them to play automatically the Evohe of <i>Orpheus in Hades</i>! An apropos @@ -4118,18 +4079,18 @@ sausage, replace the aristocratic restaurants of yore. The features are<span cla different; but still it is a Paris nook, really gay, amusing, and original. A walk in it is delightful, though nothing, alas! can be said to vividly recall the past, since the terrible fire of 1887 destroyed -the Comic Opera of our fathers; the Opera of Grétry, Dalayrac, Méhul, -Boïeldieu, and Hérold; the Opera whose façade does not open on the +the Comic Opera of our fathers; the Opera of Grétry, Dalayrac, Méhul, +Boïeldieu, and Hérold; the Opera whose façade does not open on the boulevard, according to the desire formally expressed in 1782 to Heurtier, the architect, by the King's Comedians refusing to be confused -with the "Boulevard Comedians"; the Opéra-Comique where, every evening, +with the "Boulevard Comedians"; the Opéra-Comique where, every evening, in the spacious <i>foyer</i> adorned with busts of dead musical celebrities -and composers that had contributed to the theatre's fame, the habitués +and composers that had contributed to the theatre's fame, the habitués met whose attendance was a protest against modern music: Auber, Adam, -Clapisson, Bazin, Maillard; later, and with another æsthetic doctrine, -G. Bizet, Léo Delibes, V. Massé, J. Massenet, Carvalho, Meilhac, Halévy, +Clapisson, Bazin, Maillard; later, and with another æsthetic doctrine, +G. Bizet, Léo Delibes, V. Massé, J. Massenet, Carvalho, Meilhac, Halévy, and old Dupin, the last an astonishing centenarian who, one evening, -with rancorous eye looked at Hérold's bust and grumbled: "How that +with rancorous eye looked at Hérold's bust and grumbled: "How that urchin used to rile me!" In presence of the general bewilderment he explained: "I was his school companion, in 1806, at Saint-Louis' College!" we were then in May 1885! This was the obstinately reactionary @@ -4145,11 +4106,11 @@ not to!"</p> <p>The amiable chats, the agreeable meetings which brought together so many witty people, clever talkers,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a><br /><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a><br /><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> artists, men of the world, those of the -Comic Opera <i>foyer</i>, of the Grand Opera, or the Comédie Française are +Comic Opera <i>foyer</i>, of the Grand Opera, or the Comédie Française are now hardly anything but a memory. Not that the practice itself is abolished. Art gatherings are quite as frequent and as well attended; but they have emigrated,—many of them to Montmartre, to the "Butte -Sacrée," the holy mound, "the teat of the world," yelled the astonishing +Sacrée," the holy mound, "the teat of the world," yelled the astonishing Salis in his <i>Chat Noir</i> patter; and truly the spot is one of the Capital's curiosities.</p> @@ -4177,9 +4138,9 @@ couplets.</p> <p>Montmartre is the Capital's pot-house; it is all good-humoured laughter and chaff. People enjoy themselves at night and work in the day, for it has always been a favourite abode for artists of every kind: Henri -Monnier, the Duchess d'Abrantès, Madame Haudebourg-Lescot, Mademoiselle -Mars, Horace Vernet, Berlioz, Ch. Jacque, Reyer, Victor Massé, Vollon, -Manet, André Gill, Steinlen, Guillemet, Willette, Jules Jouy, Mac-Nab, +Monnier, the Duchess d'Abrantès, Madame Haudebourg-Lescot, Mademoiselle +Mars, Horace Vernet, Berlioz, Ch. Jacque, Reyer, Victor Massé, Vollon, +Manet, André Gill, Steinlen, Guillemet, Willette, Jules Jouy, Mac-Nab, Xanrof, Maurice Donnay. Their memory there is alive and respected, the legend of their prowess is preserved. It is Montmartre's <i>Iliad</i>.</p> @@ -4200,12 +4161,12 @@ in the Rue des Rosiers and shot against a garden wall.</p> which this tragedy of the 18th of March was played, a little of the garden itself remains, behind the modern buildings of the <i>Abri Saint-Joseph</i>, vast sheds used as refectories by the crowds of pilgrims -attracted to the basilica of the Sacré-Cœur.</p> +attracted to the basilica of the Sacré-Cœur.</p> <p>Indeed, all this quarter is melancholy-looking, silent, quaint, and monastic. Chaplet, scapulary, candle, missal, and pious picture-dealers have their shops in it. The spot is a sort of religious fair; even the -streets have liturgical names: Saint-Eleuthère, Saint-Rustique, near the +streets have liturgical names: Saint-Eleuthère, Saint-Rustique, near the Rue Girardon, and the Calvary cemetery, overlooked by the awkward outlines of the old Galette Windmill, the ordinary rendezvous for idlers, boulevard inquisitives, artists' models, lemans and bullies of @@ -4238,13 +4199,13 @@ stone, whence heave, like masts, the bell-towers of palaces, the turrets, belfries and steeples of churches, with domes, roofs and gardens—an incomparable vision of art, grandeur and beauty.</p> -<p>The great Balzac informs us that César Birotteau was ruined by +<p>The great Balzac informs us that César Birotteau was ruined by speculations he engaged in on the "waste ground round about the Madeleine church."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a><br /><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a><br /><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a><br /><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a><br /><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span> He lost in them the profits realised by his "Eau -Carminative" and by the "Double Pâte des Sultanes." His "Rose Queen" +Carminative" and by the "Double Pâte des Sultanes." His "Rose Queen" perfumery was swallowed up in them....</p> -<p>And, however, César Birotteau was right in his reasoning. To-day, the +<p>And, however, César Birotteau was right in his reasoning. To-day, the Madeleine building ground is the highest quoted in Paris.</p> <p>In 1802, the surface was occupied by foundation works and scaffolding, @@ -4260,12 +4221,12 @@ the building.</p> <p>There took place the charming episode depicted by Duplessis-Bertaux, under the pleasing title: "Ingenuous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span> Benevolence" (an historic fact of the 5th Messidor, anno X.). A long notice, beneath the picture, tells us -that Pradère, Persuis, Elleviou and "his spouse," walking one evening +that Pradère, Persuis, Elleviou and "his spouse," walking one evening along the Magdalene Boulevard, met a blind street-singer, who "by the strains of his piano was soliciting public charity." The receipts were wretched; so our kind artists improvised a little open-air concert and remedied the ill-fortune of the poor fellow. After delightfully singing, -Madame Elleviou, her husband and Pradère made a collection, and poured +Madame Elleviou, her husband and Pradère made a collection, and poured the proceeds, thirty-six francs, into the blind man's hands trembling with emotion!</p> @@ -4275,8 +4236,8 @@ with emotion!</p> <i>From a sepia of the eighteenth century</i></span> </div> -<p>Along the Rue Royale, we reach the Champs-Elysées, after stopping for a -moment at the "Cité Berryer," a strange alley in which once stood the +<p>Along the Rue Royale, we reach the Champs-Elysées, after stopping for a +moment at the "Cité Berryer," a strange alley in which once stood the hotel of the King's Musketeers. It is a sort of poor market lost in this rich quarter.</p> @@ -4287,9 +4248,9 @@ rich quarter.</p> </div> <p>Then comes the Place de la Concorde, the finest Square in the world, -with its unrivalled perspectives of the Champs Elysées, the Seine, the +with its unrivalled perspectives of the Champs Elysées, the Seine, the Tuileries, the Garde-Meuble, the Crillon mansion, and the charming house -of Grimod de la Reynière, to-day the Cercle de l'Union artistique, at +of Grimod de la Reynière, to-day the Cercle de l'Union artistique, at the corner of the Rue de "la Bonne Morue"—at present the Rue Boissy d'Anglas—in front of which still stood, until the second Empire, one of the corner pavilions erected by Gabriel. What souvenirs! the raising of @@ -4303,7 +4264,7 @@ the ditches crossed, and then the sinister scaffold, smoking in front of the statue to Liberty, and the Conventionals terrified, stopping before they entered their hall and taking a close look at the death which, each day, hovered over them. "Yesterday, as I was proceeding to the Assembly -with Pénières," writes Dulaure in his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> Memoirs, "we perceived, as we +with Pénières," writes Dulaure in his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> Memoirs, "we perceived, as we passed through the Revolution Square, preparations being made for an execution. 'Let us pause,' my colleague said to me; 'let us accustom ourselves to the sight. Perhaps we shall soon need to make proof of our @@ -4318,7 +4279,7 @@ At the angle of the Rue de la Bonne-Morue about 1850 (to-day the Rue Boissy-d </div> <p>Severed heads were exhibited by the executioner at the four corners of -the huge Square: Danton, Camille Desmoulins, Hérault de Séchelles, +the huge Square: Danton, Camille Desmoulins, Hérault de Séchelles, Charlotte Corday, Madame Roland, Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, and Robespierre. A dreadful pell-mell, a disastrous butchery; the ground was red with blood. Then followed the soldiers of the Empire, singing as @@ -4357,8 +4318,8 @@ yards from the place where the four hoofs of the Emperor Napoleon's white horse pranced, as his rider reviewed the Guard, before flying his victorious eagles towards Moscow, Madrid, Rome, Vienna, or Berlin!</p> -<p>The Champs Elysées are of almost modern creation. A decade ago, the fine -avenues surrounding the Arc de l'Etoile—the Avenue Kléber, the Avenue +<p>The Champs Elysées are of almost modern creation. A decade ago, the fine +avenues surrounding the Arc de l'Etoile—the Avenue Kléber, the Avenue Wagram, the Avenue Niel, the Avenue de l'Alma—offered most picturesque contrasts; beside a sumptuous mansion, subsisted wretched little houses, remains of old hovels that once were scattered all over this luxurious @@ -4367,7 +4328,7 @@ even to cross, of sixty years ago. Under the Directory, Madame Tallien's cottage (Notre Dame de Thermidor, she was called) to which the Incroyables and the Merveilleuses dared not go without escort, was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span> situated as far up as the Avenue Montaigne. Dancing-gardens and open-air -bars occupied the space now filled by restaurants and cafés-concerts. An +bars occupied the space now filled by restaurants and cafés-concerts. An engraving by Carle Vernet shows us a Cossack encampment round a humble, country-looking inn. Now the Le Doyen restaurant stands there!</p> @@ -4377,7 +4338,7 @@ country-looking inn. Now the Le Doyen restaurant stands there!</p> <i>Chauvet, del.</i></span> </div> -<p>Under Louis-Philippe, the Champs-Elysées were at length altered: side +<p>Under Louis-Philippe, the Champs-Elysées were at length altered: side avenues were laid out, the main avenue was widened; and Emile Augier used to relate that, in the hollow of one of the trees numbered for trimming (No. 116, I believe), the ticket porter belonging to the @@ -4386,15 +4347,15 @@ rehearsals of <i>Mercadet</i>. The great novelist, in order to escape from his numerous creditors, was lodging at this period in the Rue Beaujon, under the name of Madame Dupont, widow. Gozlan, who ultimately discovered his illustrious<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a><br /><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a><br /><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span> friend's address, added on the envelopes -he sent to him—"née Balzac."</p> +he sent to him—"née Balzac."</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_102" id="ILL_102"></a> <img src="images/ill_102.jpg" width="600" height="417" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE MADRID CHÂTEAU<br /> +<span class="caption">THE MADRID CHÂTEAU<br /> <i>L. G. Moreau, pinxit</i></span> </div> -<p>The curious Memoirs of the Abbé de Salamon, a Papal internuncio, give us +<p>The curious Memoirs of the Abbé de Salamon, a Papal internuncio, give us a striking picture of the Bois de Boulogne under the Revolution: a sort of forest, or jungle, in which those took refuge who, being suspected, were tracked by the Committees and the police, and to whom the precious @@ -4426,9 +4387,9 @@ answered."</p> <p>Subsequently it became the ordinary meeting-place<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span> for duellists. Already, in the time of Louis XV., some ladies, the Marchioness de Nesles and the Countess de Polignac, had exchanged pistol shots in it on -account of the Duke de Richelieu. Under the Revolution, in 1790, Cazalès +account of the Duke de Richelieu. Under the Revolution, in 1790, Cazalès and Barnave went there to settle a political quarrel: "I should be sorry -to kill you," exclaimed Cazalès; "but you annoy us considerably, and I +to kill you," exclaimed Cazalès; "but you annoy us considerably, and I want to keep you away from the rostrum for a while." "I am more generous," retorted Barnave; "I wish merely to touch you; for you are the only orator on your side, whereas on mine my absence would not even @@ -4444,7 +4405,7 @@ And how many others!...</p> <span class="caption">A PERFORMANCE AT THE HIPPODROME ON EYLAU SQUARE UNDER THE SECOND EMPIRE</span> </div> -<p>Under Louis-Philippe, the Duke d'Orléans, the Duke de Nemours, Lord +<p>Under Louis-Philippe, the Duke d'Orléans, the Duke de Nemours, Lord Seymour, the Duke de Fitz-James, Ernest Le Roy—the Jockey Club at its formation—organised races there. The stakes were modest; most often, a few bottles of champagne were gained and lost. Then fashion took hold of @@ -4455,7 +4416,7 @@ favourite chariot-races.</p> <p>The Bois de Boulogne became the rendezvous of society. There, was displayed the luxury of the Second Empire. Its trees and avenues formed -an exquisite framework to elegance and worldly show. In the <i>Curèe</i>, +an exquisite framework to elegance and worldly show. In the <i>Curèe</i>, Emile Zola was able to write: "It was four o'clock and the Bois awoke from its afternoon sultriness. Along the Empress' Avenue, clouds of dust were flying; and, afar, lawns of verdure could be seen, with the hills @@ -4475,7 +4436,7 @@ day gathers within these select surroundings the most elegant women in Paris, fashionable horsemen, vibrating autocars with their <i>chauffeurs</i>, clubmen as well as artists and workmen, who come to enjoy the fair spectacle, this feast of the eyes, this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span> unique scenery: the Bois de -Boulogne, the Avenue du Bois, the Champs Elysées.</p> +Boulogne, the Avenue du Bois, the Champs Elysées.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILL_105" id="ILL_105"></a> <img src="images/ill_105.jpg" width="500" height="354" alt="" /> @@ -4488,7 +4449,7 @@ the glory of the Grand Army that a view is obtained of the sumptuous quarters of modern Paris.</p> <p>Some sixty years ago, Balzac showed his hero dreaming on the hill of -Père-Lachaise, and contemplating, as it lay in the valley, the Monster +Père-Lachaise, and contemplating, as it lay in the valley, the Monster he intended to tame. To-day Rastignac would have to mount the Arc de Triomphe, if he wished to threaten Paris. Thence, he might launch his famous defiance: "It is a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span> struggle between us now!" for, if the aspect @@ -4509,7 +4470,7 @@ win its favour.</p> <div class="center"> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> <tr><td align="left"><i>History of and Researches into the Antiquities of the City of Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">H. Sauval</span> (1724).</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><i>History of the City and Diocese of Paris</i>. By the <span class="smcap">Abbé Lebeuf</span> (1883).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>History of the City and Diocese of Paris</i>. By the <span class="smcap">Abbé Lebeuf</span> (1883).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>Tableau of Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Mercier</span> (1782).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>History of Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Dulaure</span> (1825).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>Tableau of Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Texier</span> (1850).</td></tr> @@ -4519,10 +4480,10 @@ win its favour.</p> <tr><td align="left"><i>Paris throughout the Ages</i>. By <span class="smcap">E. Fournier</span> (1875).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>My Old Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">E. Drumont</span> (1879).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Auguste Vitu</span> (1889).</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><i>Paris (History of the Twenty Arrondissements or Quarters)</i>. By <span class="smcap">Labédollière</span>.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><i>Revolutionary Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Lenôtre</span> (1895).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Paris (History of the Twenty Arrondissements or Quarters)</i>. By <span class="smcap">Labédollière</span>.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Revolutionary Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Lenôtre</span> (1895).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>Old Papers, Old Houses</i>. (1900).</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><i>The Bièvre and Saint-Séverin</i>. By <span class="smcap">Huysmans</span> (1898).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>The Bièvre and Saint-Séverin</i>. By <span class="smcap">Huysmans</span> (1898).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>The Chronicle of the Streets</i>. By <span class="smcap">Beaurepaire</span> (1900).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>Paris-Atlas</i>. By <span class="smcap">F. Bournon</span>.</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>New Itinerary Guide to Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Ch. Normand</span>.</td></tr> @@ -4544,381 +4505,6 @@ retains some of its ancient grace.</p></div> <div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> A word here meaning ultra-naturalistic, broadly satirical.</p></div></div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Nooks and Corners of Old Paris, by Georges Cain - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOOKS AND CORNERS OF OLD PARIS *** - -***** This file should be named 40306-h.htm or 40306-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/3/0/40306/ - -Produced by Annie R. McGuire. 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