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diff --git a/40270-0.txt b/40270-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..36a5d4b --- /dev/null +++ b/40270-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6936 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40270 *** + +[Illustration: Book Cover] + + + + +NOOKS AND CORNERS OF PEMBROKESHIRE. + + + + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration: THE ROOD SCREEN ST. DAVIDS CATHEDRAL] + + + + +[Illustration: NOOKS & CORNERS OF PEMBROKESHIRE. + +DRAWN & DESCRIBED BY +H. THORNHILL TIMMINS, F.R.C.S. + +AUTHOR of +NOOKS & CORNERS OF HEREFORDSHIRE + +LONDON: +ELLIOT STOCK, 62, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. +1895.] + + + + +PREFACE. + + +The kindly reception accorded to my 'Nooks and Corners of Herefordshire,' +both by the public and the press, has encouraged me (where, indeed, +encouragement was little needed) to set forth anew upon my sketching +rambles, and explore the Nooks and Corners of Pembrokeshire. + +In chronicling the results of these peregrinations, I feel that I owe +some apology to those whose knowledge of the Shire of Pembroke is far +more thorough and intimate than my own, and upon whose preserves I may +fairly be accused of poaching. I venture to plead, in extenuation, an +inveterate love for exploring these unfrequented byways of my native +land, and for searching out and sketching those picturesque old +buildings that lend such a unique interest to its sequestered nooks and +corners. + +Pembrokeshire is rich in these relics of a bygone time, but for one +reason or another they do not appear to have received the attention they +certainly deserve. Few counties can boast anything finer of their kind +than the mediæval castles of Pembroke, Manorbere and Carew; while St. +Davids Cathedral and the ruined Palace of its bishops, nestling in their +secluded western vale, form a scene that alone is worth a visit to +behold. No less remarkable in their way are the wonderful old crosses, +circles and cromlechs, which remind the traveller of a vanished race as +he tramps the broad fern-clad uplands of the Precelly Hills. It is a +notable fact that 'he who runs may read,' in the diversified character +of its place-names, an important and interesting chapter of +Pembrokeshire history. The south-western portion of the county, with the +Saxon 'tons' of its Teutonic settlers, is as English as Oxfordshire, and +hence has acquired the title of 'Little England beyond Wales.' On the +other hand, the northern and eastern districts are as Welsh as the heart +of Wales; and there, as the wayfarer soon discovers for himself, the +mother-tongue of the Principality is the only one 'understanded of the +people.' + +Although Pembrokeshire cannot pretend to lay claim to such striking +scenery as the North Wallian counties display, yet its wind-swept +uplands and deep, secluded dingles have a character all their own; while +the loftier regions of the Precelly Hills, and the broken and varied +nature of the seaboard, afford many a picturesque prospect as the +traveller fares on his way. + +In compiling the following notes I have availed myself of Fenton's +well-known work on Pembrokeshire, and of the writings of George Owen of +Hênllys; I have consulted the records of that prolific chronicler, +Gerald de Barri; Bevan's 'History of the Diocese of St. Davids; and +Jones and Freeman's exhaustive work on St. Davids Cathedral; besides +various minor sources of local information which need not be specified +here. + +In conclusion, I take this opportunity to tender my sincere thanks to +those friends and acquaintances whose ready help and advice so greatly +facilitated my task, while at the same time enhancing the pleasure of +these sketching rambles amidst the Nooks and Corners of Pembrokeshire. + + H. THORNHILL TIMMINS. + _Harrow_, 1895. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + A GENERAL SURVEY. THE KING'S TOWN OF TENBY 1 + ROUND ABOUT THE RIDGEWAY 23 + MANORBERE CASTLE, AND GIRALDUS CAMBRENSIS 41 + PEMBROKE TOWN AND CASTLE. STACKPOLE AND THE SOUTHERN COAST 54 + TO ANGLE, RHÔSCROWTHER, AND THE CASTLE MARTIN COUNTRY 76 + CAREW, WITH ITS CROSS, CASTLE AND CHURCH. UPTON CASTLE AND + CHAPEL. PEMBROKE DOCK AND HAVERFORDWEST 93 + TO ST. BRIDES, MARLOES AND THE DALE COUNTRY 114 + WESTWARD HO! TO ST. DAVIDS. THE CITY AND ENVIRONS 126 + TO FISHGUARD, NEWPORT, GOODWIC AND PENCAER 142 + NEWPORT, NEVERN AND TEIVYSIDE 149 + A RAMBLE OVER PRECELLY HILLS, TO THE SOURCES OF THE CLEDDAU 167 + ON AND OFF THE NARBERTH ROAD. LANGWM AND DAUGLEDDAU 178 + + + + +INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + PAGE + THE ROOD SCREEN, ST. DAVIDS CATHEDRAL _Frontispiece_ + BECALMED OFF TENBY 8 + TENBY 9 + MACES PRESENTED TO TENBY BY CHARLES II. 11 + THE CHANCEL OF ST. MARY'S CHURCH, TENBY 12 + A BIT OF OLD TENBY 14 + RUINS OF ST. MARY'S PRIORY AT TENBY 15 + OLD HOUSES AT TENBY 16 + THE WALLS OF TENBY TOWN 17 + ST. GEORGE'S GATE, TENBY 18 + THE PRIORY, CALDEY ISLAND 20 + THE ANCIENT TREASURY OF TENBY 22 + WEATHERCOCK ON TENBY STEEPLE 23 + GUMFRESTON CHURCH 25 + CHURCH PLATE AT GUMFRESTON 26 + PENALLY HOUSE 32 + AT LAMPHEY PALACE 36 + THE CHANCEL, HODGESTON CHURCH 38 + ANCIENT QUERN OR HAND MILL 40 + KEYS OF MANORBERE CASTLE 41 + MANORBERE CASTLE, FROM THE EAST 42 + THE COURTYARD, MANORBERE CASTLE 42 + GATE-TOWER, MANORBERE CASTLE 43 + MANORBERE CASTLE, FROM THE SOUTH 44 + DE BARRI TOMB, MANORBERE 47 + THE CHURCH PATH, MANORBERE 49 + MANORBERE CHURCH 50 + ST. GEORGE AND THE DRAGON 54 + PEMBROKE 55 + PEMBROKE CASTLE 56 + THE OLD WEST GATE, PEMBROKE 61 + THE PRIOR'S DWELLING, MONKTON 62 + SIR ELIDUR DE STACKPOLE 64 + STACKPOLE 66 + THE HIRLAS HORN 67 + ST. GOVAN'S CHAPEL 69 + ORIELTON 74 + AT RHÔSCROWTHER 75 + SEA-POPPY 76 + SEAMEN'S CHAPEL AT ANGLE 81 + RUINED CASTLE AT ANGLE 82 + JESTYNTON 85 + AT RHÔSCROWTHER 88 + CASTLE MARTIN CHURCH 90 + A WAYSIDE WELL 92 + CASTLE MARTIN FONT 92 + CAREW CROSS 93 + THE CROSS OF THE SON OF ILTEUT, THE SON OF ECETT 94 + A CORNER OF CAREW CASTLE 97 + CAREW CASTLE 98 + BOY-BISHOP, CAREW 99 + OLD RECTORY HOUSE AT CAREW 100 + UPTON CASTLE 101 + OLD CHAPEL AT UPTON, NEAR PEMBROKE 103 + FROM UPTON CHAPEL 106 + LUCY WALTERS 107 + JOHNSTONE CHURCH 108 + A VIEW OF HAVERFORDWEST 109 + BROTHER RICHARD'S TOMB, HAVERFORDWEST 110 + ST. MARY'S, HAVERFORDWEST 111 + ARMS OF HAVERFORDWEST 113 + CHALICE AT DALE 114 + WALTON-WEST CHURCH 115 + WALWYN'S CASTLE 115 + SUMMER SHOWERS, LITTLE HAVEN 116 + LITTLE HAVEN 117 + LOW TIDE AT LITTLE HAVEN 117 + ST. BRIDES 118 + ORLANDON 119 + MULLOCK BRIDGE 120 + MARLOES 121 + MARLOES SANDS 122 + DALE CASTLE, AND MILFORD HAVEN 123 + 'THIS IS BRUNT' 124 + A RELIC OF THE SPANISH ARMADA 125 + THE ST. DAVIDS COACH 126 + ROCH CASTLE 127 + SOLVA HARBOUR, FROM AN OLD PRINT 128 + ST. DAVIDS CATHEDRAL 129 + THE GATE-TOWER, ST. DAVIDS 129 + THE BONE OF CONTENTION 130 + SEAFARING PILGRIMS 131 + THE BOATBUILDERS 132 + ST. DAVID'S SHRINE 133 + SYMBOL OF THE TRINITY, ST. DAVIDS 135 + BISHOP GOWER'S PALACE, ST. DAVIDS 136 + THE PALACE, ST. DAVIDS, FROM THE MEADOWS 137 + OLD COTTAGE NEAR ST. DAVIDS 140 + THE PRIEST AND THE LAYMAN 141 + THE ROYAL OAK, FISHGUARD 142 + CLOCK AT BRESTGARN 144 + LLANWNDA CHURCH 145 + THE CHALICE AT LLANWNDA 146 + A DERELICT 148 + SALMON FISHER WITH CORACLE 149 + TREWERN CHAPEL AND BYRNACH'S CROSS, NEVERN 153 + PILGRIMS' CROSS AT NEVERN 155 + THE TOAD OF TRELLYFAN 156 + CROMLECH AT PENTRE EVAN 158 + A TEIVYSIDE CORACLE 161 + KILGERRAN FERRY 162 + KILGERRAN CASTLE, FROM THE TEIFY 163 + LLECHRHYD BRIDGE 164 + CASTLE MALGWYN 164 + CROMLECH AT NEWPORT 166 + OLD WELSHWOMAN 167 + THE SKIRTS OF PRECELLY 168 + THE HOWARD MONUMENT, AT RUDBAXTON 176 + AT HAVERFORDWEST 177 + CARVED BENCH-END, HAVERFORDWEST 178 + OLD STAIRCASE AT HAVERFORDWEST 178 + UZMASTON 179 + LANGWM FISHWIVES 181 + LAWRENNY CASTLE 182 + BENTON CASTLE 183 + PICTON CASTLE 185 + SLEBECH OLD CHURCH 188 + LLAWHADEN CASTLE AND BRIDGE 191 + EGLWYSFAIR GLAN TÂF 197 + REDBERTH FONT 198 + MAP OF PEMBROKESHIRE _at beginning_ + SPEED'S MAP OF THE COUNTY _at end_ + + + + +[Illustration: Map of Pembrokeshire] + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +A GENERAL SURVEY. THE KING'S TOWN OF TENBY. + + +Far away beyond the many-folding hills of Brecon and Glamorgan, whose +hollow 'cwms' are seamed with smoke from many a pit and furnace: far +away beyond the broad uplands and fertile straths where Towey and Teivy +seek the sea; the ancient shire of Pembroke thrusts forth, against the +western main, its bold and rugged coast-line. From Strumble Head to +Caldey, the grim primæval rocks that guard these storm-beaten shores +bear the full brunt of the Atlantic gales upon their craggy bastions; +which, under the ceaseless influence of time and tempest, have assumed +endless varieties of wild, fantastic outline and rich harmonious +colouring. + +A weather-beaten land is this, where every tree and hedgerow tells, in +horizontal leeward sweep, of the prevalent 'sou'-wester.' Few hills +worthy the name break these wide-expanded landscapes, above whose 'meane +hills and dales' one graceful mountain range rises in solitary +pre-eminence. Stretching athwart the northern portion of the county, the +shapely peaks of the Precelly Mountains dominate every local prospect, +attaining in Moel Cwm Cerwyn a height of 1,760 feet, and throwing out +westwards the picturesque heights of Carn Englyn; whence the range +finally plunges seawards in the bold buttress of Dinas Head, and the +wild and rugged hills of Pencaer. + +The inferior heights of Treffgarn and Plumstone 'mountain,' whose +singular crags recall the tors of Cornwall, form a quaint feature in the +prospect during the otherwise tedious drive to St. Davids. Perched upon +the westernmost spur of these hills, the lonely peel-tower of Roch +Castle looks out across the wind-swept plains of old Dewisland to the +fantastic peaks of Carn Llidi and Pen-beri, whose ancient rocks rise +abruptly from the ocean. + +Down from the broad, fern-clad shoulders of Precelly flow the few +Pembrokeshire streams that approach the dignity of rivers. Hence the +twin floods of Eastern and Western Cleddau, rising far asunder at +opposite ends of the range, meander southwards in widely-deviating +courses through the heart of the county, to unite beneath the walls of +Picton Castle, and merge at last into the tidal waters of Milford Haven. + +Westwards flows the little river Gwaen, circling through a picturesque +vale beneath the shadow of Carn Englyn, and emerging from its secluded +inland course upon the narrow, land-locked harbour of Fishguard. Towards +the north a group of streamlets unite to form the Nevern River, which +flows, amidst some of the most charming scenery in the county, through +the village of that ilk. After passing beneath the luxuriant groves of +Llwyngwair, the Nevern stream enters a sandy bay and bears the modest +commerce of Newport to the waterside hamlet of Parrog. + +The Newgale Brook sweeps around Roch Castle, and enters St. Bride's Bay +through a broad rampart of shingle and sand. This latter stream has from +very early times formed the boundary between the ancient provinces of +Dewisland and Rhôs; and to this day the Newgale Brook draws a line of +demarcation between an English and a Welsh speaking people. Upon its +left bank lies Rhôs, a portion of the district known as 'Little England +beyond Wales,' with its Saxon speech and Norman fortress of Roch; while +all to westward stretches venerable Dewisland, Welsh now as ever in +tongue and in title. + +The Solva River, emerging from a deep and narrow 'cwm,' forms one of +the most picturesque harbours upon the coast--a tempting nook for the +artist. Lastly, the little Allan Water, rising amidst those curious +hills which overlook St. Davids, meanders past open, gorse-clad commons +and marshlands abloom with the golden flag. Thenceforth the Allan winds +around the ruins of the Bishop's palace, and finally loses itself in a +tiny haven frequented by a few trading craft and small coastwise +colliers. + +Deep into the bluff outline of this sea-girt land, old Ocean encroaches +by two important inlets of widely different character. As the wayfarer +bound to St. Davids approaches his destination, the tedium of the long +coach-drive is at last relieved by the welcome outlook across a broad +expanse of sea. This is St. Bride's Bay, whose waters sweep inland past +the ancient city for a distance of ten miles or so, having the large +islands of Ramsey and Skomer lying upon either horn of the bay. + +Tradition tells that, 'once upon a time,' a fair country studded with +villages and farmsteads flourished where now the ocean rolls; and traces +of submerged forests about Newgale, and elsewhere within the compass of +the bay, suggest a possible grain of truth in the local fable. + +A few miles farther down the coast the famous estuary of Milford Haven +opens seaward between the sheltering heights of St. Anne's Head, and the +long, crooked peninsula of Angle. Wonderful are the ramifications of +this magnificent waterway, within whose spacious roadstead the whole +British navy might with ease find anchorage; while its land-locked tidal +reaches bear a modest local traffic to many a remote inland district, +calling up memories of savours nautical beside the grass-grown quays of +Pembroke and 'Ha'rfordwest.' + +Well might Imogen marvel why Nature should have singled out 'this same +blessed Milford' for such a priceless endowment, exclaiming: + + 'Tell me how Wales was made so happy as + To inherit such a Haven.' + +The quaint author of 'Polyolbion' no less enthusiastically remarks: + + 'So highly Milford is in every mouth renown'd, + Noe Haven hath aught good, that in her is not found;' + +while lastly, not to be outdone, George Owen, the old Pembrokeshire +chronicler, declares his beloved 'Myllford Havon' to be the 'most +famouse Porte of Christendome.' + +Ever since those legendary days when St. Patrick sailed for the Emerald +Isle upon the traditional millstone, this incomparable haven has +continued to be a favourite point of departure for the opposite shores +of Ireland; and several historical personages appear at intervals in the +annals of local events. Hence, for example, Henry II. sailed away upon +his conquest of old Erin; while in the Fourth Henry's reign a large body +of French troops disembarked upon these shores, to co-operate in the +wars of 'the irregular and wild Glendower.' Yet another famous +individual, ycleped Henry ap Edmund ap Owain ap Meredydd ap Tydwr, +better known as Henry Tudor, Earl of Richmond, landed at Milford Haven +in the year of grace 1485, to set forth upon the historical campaign +which won for him a crown on Bosworth field. Here, again, the ubiquitous +Oliver Cromwell embarked with an army of some 15,000 men, to carry his +victorious arms against the rebellious Irish; and hence, in these piping +times of peace, the mail-boats sail at frequent intervals to the +seaports of the Emerald Isle. + +Penetrating thus deeply into the country, one crooked arm of the great +estuary 'creketh in' beneath the stately ruins of Carew Castle, in such +wise as to partially 'peninsulate' a remote but interesting portion of +South Pembrokeshire, which is still further isolated by the low range of +the Ridgeway, between Pembroke and Tenby. This little district contains +within its limited compass a wonderful variety of ruined castles, +ancient priories, quaint old parish churches and curious, fortified +dwelling-houses of the English settlers. + +Nestling in the more sheltered hollows, or clinging limpet-like to the +storm-swept uplands, these characteristic structures arouse the +wayfarer's interest as he paces the short, crisp turf rendered sweet by +the driven sea-spray. Occasionally he will set his course by some +prominent church steeple, which at the same time affords a landmark to +the passing mariner as he sails around the wild and iron-bound headlands +of the southern coast. + +Throughout the length and breadth of Pembrokeshire, the constant +recurrence of camps, cromlechs, hut-circles and other prehistoric +remains, points to the existence of an extremely ancient people, whose +origin is involved in the mists of unrecorded antiquity. These primæval +monuments, seemingly old as the bleak hills they crown, suggest many an +insoluble conundrum to the curious visitor, who, gazing in wonder upon +their weather-beaten yet indestructible masses, disposes of the archaic +enigma as best he may by exclaiming: 'There were giants in those days!' + +Coming down to the comparative _terra-firma_ of historic times, we find, +at the period of the Roman invasion, a Celtic race called the Demetæ +dwelling in the district of which our county forms a portion. The +masters of the world appear to have pushed their way to the western +seaboard, where, according to tradition, they established their colony +of Menapia beneath the shelter of the headland known to Ptolemy as +Octopitarum; connecting it, according to their custom, by the roadway of +Via Julia with their base at Muridunum, or Carmarthen; while the +probably still older road, called Via Flandrica, or Fordd Fleming, +afforded a route across the mountains to the north. + +Taking another lengthy stride across the intervening centuries, we may +trace the footsteps of the Norman invaders. Under the leadership of +Arnulph de Montgomery, they overran these newly-conquered lands, and +established themselves in those great strongholds of Pembroke, +Manorbere, Carew, Haverfordwest and Roch, whose dismantled walls still +dominate the surrounding country. + +The wild Welsh proving inconveniently restive, that astute monarch Henry +I. imported a colony of sturdy Flemings to assist in keeping order upon +these distant march-lands; an event which exerted a marked influence +upon the course of local history. These thrifty settlers received +further aid from the Second Henry, and settled down to cultivate the +land wrested from the Celtic peasantry. + +The natives, however, still continued to behave in a very unneighbourly +fashion, 'making,' as we are told, 'verie sharpe warres upon the +Flemings, sometimes with gaine, sometimes with losse;' so that they +were obliged to build for themselves those strong, fortified +dwelling-houses whose massive remains are so frequently met with +throughout the southern parts of the county. + +In course of time the language of the immigrants superseded the ancient +tongue of Celtic Dyfed, and thus that portion of the district comprised +within the hundreds of Castlemartin and Rhôs acquired the title of +'Little England beyond Wales,' whose Saxon place-names, such as +Johnston, Williamston, Hodgeston and the like, contrast so strikingly +with the universal Llan-this, that and the other, still common +throughout the upper country. + +We have already had occasion to refer to Henry of Richmond's famous +visit to Milford, and to recall the expeditions of Cromwell and other +prominent personages from that noble haven to Ireland. The French +'invasion' of Wales in 1797 will be referred to in dealing with the +scenes of that notorious exploit: and in the course of our narrative we +shall touch upon various other historical incidents connected with the +nooks and corners of this fascinating county. + +Owing to the prevalence of westerly breezes from the open Atlantic, +tempered by the beneficent influence of the Gulf Stream, Pembrokeshire +is blessed with a mild and remarkably equable climate. Hence the air is +at the same time both dry and bracing, particularly in the southern +portion of the county, where, in sheltered situations, the myrtle, +fuchsia and syringa flourish _al fresco_ all the year round. + +Nothing can exceed the luxuriance of the vegetation in the spacious +demesne of Stackpole Court, where, sheltered from the strong winter +gales that sweep across these gorse-clad uplands, the oak, ash, beech, +ilex, sycamore and other forest trees, 'crowd into a shade' beside the +lily-strewn meres whose placid waters mirror their spreading branches. +This favoured region boasts, we believe, an average temperature of about +50° Fahr., and it has been shown by careful analysis that, taking one +season with another, there is little to choose between the average +climates of Madeira and of Tenby. + +These favourable conditions do not, of course, obtain to the same degree +in the north; where rough winds occasionally sweep down from the +Precelly Mountains, driving keenly across the open country and retarding +the vegetation. Nevertheless there are sheltered nooks around Newport +and Fishguard where the eucalyptus, mulberry and fig-tree attain a +goodly stature. + +Sun-warmed spots such as these form, however, mere oases of verdure +amidst the rolling, wind-swept uplands of the interior; where the +hardier trees alone rear their stunted forms above the rough stone walls +which serve in place of hedgerows, or cluster around a group of solid, +one-storied cottages, whose low walls, deep roofs and vast, bulging +chimneys are overspread with one universal coating of dazzling +whitewash; 'to keep out the weather,' as the country-folk will tell +you--very clean, no doubt, but the reverse of picturesque in appearance. + +The native style of building is well exhibited in the ancient parish +churches, more especially in those towards the southern seaboard of the +county, which are distinguished by a rugged simplicity entirely in +keeping with the stern and sombre character of the surrounding +landscape. Of architecture there is but little; such beauty as the +edifice can boast having to be sought in the picturesque grouping of its +rambling gables beneath the tall, square, fortress-like tower; and the +quaint, unlooked-for character of the cavernous interior. + +The nave is frequently covered with a rude stone barrel vault, from +which low vaulted transepts open out like cells on either hand, whence +vast 'squints,' forming narrow passages, branch diagonally into the +chancel. Low arches, sometimes pointed, sometimes of a curious flat +shape and almost invariably devoid of mouldings, open into the aisles, +which are lighted by lancet windows of simple but good design; while +sometimes a roomy porch or handsome sedilia adds a touch of distinction +to an otherwise homely interior. + +We may instance, as typical examples of these sacred edifices, the +churches of Gumfreston, St. Florence, Castlemartin and, _par +excellence_, of Manorbere. A handsomer development may be studied in the +parish churches of Tenby, Carew and Hodgeston, and the fine old priory +church of Monkton. The graceful thirteenth-century pillars and arches of +St. Mary's, Haverfordwest, are unusually ornate for this locality, and +are only excelled by the varied and beautiful architecture of St. Davids +Cathedral itself. There can be little doubt that the hard, intractable +nature of the local limestone is in some degree responsible for the +primitive characteristics of many of these churches; for, despite their +archaic appearance, they are rarely older than early thirteenth-century +times. + +Beautiful in their decay are the time-honoured ruins of the episcopal +palaces of Lamphey and St. Davids; whose mellow-toned walls with their +singularly graceful arcades mark the constructive genius of Bishop +Gower, the Wykeham of the West. + +The numerous mediæval castles, whose ruined walls and ivy-mantled towers +so frequently meet the eye, form a striking feature in many a +picturesque scene; from the rugged bastions which cluster beneath the +mighty keep of Pembroke, and the many-windowed front of lordly Carew, to +the lonely peel-tower of Roch and the remote and isolated block-houses +which keep ward around the coast. + +Having thus obtained a general _coup d'oeil_ of our field of action, +we will proceed to explore at our leisure the nooks and corners of this +pleasant countryside; so, with this purpose in view, we now make our way +to that highly-favoured watering-place, the 'King's town of Tenby.' + +[Illustration: BECALMED OFF TENBY.] + +One clear, calm evening in May of this drouthy year of grace 1893, we +emerge dusty and sun-baked from the tropical recesses of the 'tunnel +express,' alight at Tenby Station, and wend our way through the streets +of that clean little town to seaside quarters overlooking a +picturesque bay, where some fishing-craft lie quietly at anchor off the +harbour mouth. Towards sundown a miniature fleet of trawlers sweeps +gracefully landwards around the Castle Hill, looking for all the world +like a flight of brilliant butterflies; their russet sails glowing in +the warm light of the sun's declining rays with every hue from gold to +ruddy purple, recalling memories of gorgeous scenes on far-away Venetian +lagoons. Hailing from many a haven between Milford and strong-savoured +Brixham, these handy little vessels ply their calling around our +south-western shores; pushing their ventures, when opportunity serves, +to the North Sea fishing-grounds, and even to the remoter shores of +Scotland. The visitor curious in such matters soon learns to distinguish +between the well-found Brixham trawler and the handy sloop from Milford, +certain cabalistic letters painted upon the parti-coloured sails +denoting the port where, according to custom, each boat is respectively +registered. + +[Illustration: TENBY.] + +Tenby town is in many respects happy in what a local historian quaintly +terms its 'approximation.' Turning its back upon the quarter whence blow +the strongest gales, and sheltered by the high ground of the Ridgeway, +that part of the town most frequented by visitors faces south by east +across the land-locked waters of Carmarthen Bay. + +Hence a pleasant view is obtained of the opposite coast of Gower and the +more distant highlands of North Devon; while Caldey Island lies like a +breakwater against the waves of the open Channel. As shrewd old Leland +observes: 'Tinbigh Town standith on a main Rokke, but not very by; and +the Severn Se so gulfith in about hit that, at the ful Se, almost the +third part of the Toun is inclosid with water.' + +Tenby can boast a fair sprinkling of good hotels and lodging-houses. The +town is made further attractive as a place of residence by a +well-appointed club, a circulating library, excellent public baths and a +small museum of local interest. Last, but by no means least amongst its +attractions, Nature has provided a broad expanse of firm, dry sands, +much appreciated by children and bathers at holiday times. + +With a fair train-service upon the railway, good carriages and boats for +hire, and steamboats calling at intervals, Tenby affords a convenient +centre whence to explore the remoter recesses of South Pembrokeshire, +for few and far between are the resting-places for the wayfarer in that +rather inaccessible region. + +Dynbych-y-Pysgod--the Little Town of Fish--appears to have been a place +of some importance from very early times. By the middle of the twelfth +century we find the town in the hands of the Flemish soldiery; and +subsequently disasters came thick and threefold upon the devoted +inhabitants. During the reign of Henry II., Maelgwyn ap Rhys, a person +who is euphemistically described as 'of civil behaviour and honesty in +all his actions,' ascertaining that many of the townsfolk were absent at +the foreign wars, made a sudden onslaught, set fire to the ill-fated +town, and burnt it to the ground. Less than a century later the place +was again taken and destroyed by Llewelyn ap Grufydd: and after a +further respite of about 200 years, the notorious Owain Glyndwr appeared +before the walls, laid siege to, and made himself master of the little +Western seaport. + +Notwithstanding these misfortunes, 'the King's town of Tenby' henceforth +grew and prospered unmolested. In 1402 Tenby was made a corporate town; +and by the middle of the fifteenth century it had already become a +centre of considerable trade and enterprise, encompassed by strong stone +walls and towers built by Earl William de Valentia, Lord of Pembroke. +The town walls are said to have been rebuilt by one Thomas White, the +scion of a famous burgher family, who was Mayor of this ancient borough +in 1457. + +When Leland passed this way in the reign of bluff King Hal, he found the +'Toun strongeli waullid and well gatid, everi Gate having hys Port +collis _ex solide ferro_.' 'But,' says Fenton, writing in the early part +of the present century, 'it was left for Queen Elizabeth, who was a +great benefactress of the town in general, and whose initials are still +extant over parts of the town walls, to contribute that strength and +perfection to them which the present remains are a striking proof of.' +Earl William (who appears to have been a generous patron of the town) +granted the first charter of liberties, which was afterwards renewed and +confirmed by successive reigning sovereigns. Several of these +interesting documents are still in the possession of the Corporation, +including an illuminated charter of Richard III.'s reign, and another +granted by Edward VI., which is enriched with a quaint, archaic portrait +of that youthful monarch. + +[Illustration: Maces Presented to Tenby by Charles II.] + +Tenby also boasts a handsome pair of silver maces, presented to the town +by Charles II. They are about 2 feet in length, and are emblazoned with +the royal arms, the arms of Tenby, and other appropriate devices, with +the inscription 'Rice Borrow Maior, 1660.' The upper portion of the head +is formed as a moveable lid, so that the mace could be used upon festive +occasions as a loving-cup. + +Since those turbulent days of its earlier career, Tenby has played the +modest _rôle_ of a town without a history, and has happily combined the +avocations of a fishery town with the seductions of a modern +watering-place. + +[Illustration: The Chancel of St. Mary's Church, Tenby] + +Turning out into the steadfast sunshine, we now thread our way amid the +intricacies of the older byways to the 'faire Paroche chirche,' whose +steeple, soaring high aloft, appears a landmark to mariners far out at +sea. Dedicated to St. Mary, this church is one of the largest and +handsomest in the county, and is unrivalled in the beauty and interest +of its monuments. + +Foremost amongst these are the twin marble monuments in St. Anne's +Chapel, which figure in the foreground of our sketch. Here lie buried +several distinguished members of that famous family, the Whites of +Tenby, which has given many worthy citizens to the town. + +Beneath the right-hand tomb rests Thomas White, merchant and sometime +Alderman of Tenby; whose recumbent effigy, habited in the distinctive +costume of his calling, adorns the monument. He it was who enabled +Henry, Earl of Richmond, to escape after the battle of Tewkesbury, by +concealing him in his house at Tenby until such time as he could ship +him safely off in one of his own vessels to France. In gratitude for +this yeoman service the Earl, upon his accession to the throne, +presented his trusty friend with the lease of all the Crown lands around +the town. + +The adjacent monument, which closely resembles its neighbour, records +another member of the White family. Both these tombs are enriched with +figures, in panels of bold relief, with a running inscription in +mediæval character carved upon the margin. + +Our attention is next attracted by the gaily-tinted effigy of William +Risam, who, clad in aldermanic robes, kneels beneath a canopy built +into the chapel wall. The figure is coloured in such a life-like manner +that, as the story goes, a Parliamentarian soldier fired at the supposed +enemy; in witness whereof a bullet-hole may be discerned above the head +of the effigy. + +Near at hand lies the last of that ancient family the Vaughans, of +Dunraven in South Wales; a man who, having run through his patrimony at +breakneck pace, allowed the ancestral mansion to fall into ruin, and +betook himself to a lonely turret upon the seaward cliffs. Here he is +said to have spent his time in showing false lights along the coast, in +order to lure passing vessels ashore and enrich himself by the plunder +of their cargoes. One stormy night, during one of these sinister +exploits, the body of his only son was washed ashore at his feet; when, +overcome by this ominous catastrophe, he quitted the neighbourhood, +withdrew from all intercourse with his fellow-creatures, and ended his +days in seclusion at Tenby. + +Standing upon the chapel floor hard by, we espy a fine old +fifteenth-century church bell bearing in black-letter characters the +words SANCTA ANNA, with the initials R. T. This is the ancient +sanctus-bell of this same chapel of St. Anne, which has descended to its +present lowly position from the exterior of the tower, having been hung +there, as is supposed, long years ago by Thomas ap Rhys, of +Scotsborough, a descendant of the famous Rhys ap Thomas who played so +important a part in the establishment of Henry VII. upon the throne. The +memory of this worthy knight is kept evergreen by the gaudy and rather +pretentious-looking monument seen on the farther wall. There he kneels, +with folded hands, arrayed in ruffles and trunk-hose; his 'better half,' +who is represented as of gigantic proportions, reposing uncomfortably +upon her side; while in panels beneath appear the sons and daughters, +arranged in symmetrical gradation. A glance at the sketch will show the +pretty contrast afforded by the diversified forms of the arches; while +the lofty flight of steps ascending to the chancel, and the dark timbers +of the roof supported by well-carved angels upon massive brackets, +enhance the effect of the handsome interior. + +[Illustration: RUINS OF ST. MARYS PRIORY AT TENBY.] + +Quitting the church by its massive south porch, we pause beneath the +spreading elms that adorn the churchyard to admire a singular group of +arches, set in a crumbling fragment of ruined wall, whose gray, +time-worn stones are abloom with bright tufts of pink valerian. These +appear to be the sole remains of a house of Carmelite nuns, established +A.D. 1399 by one John de Swynemore; and so graceful are these +richly-moulded arches that we can but regret that more of the structure +has not been spared to us. It is probable that these ruins are of coëval +date with the adjacent western doorway of the church, which has a +peculiar ogee arch surmounted with the following inscription in Gothic +characters: BENEDICTUS DEUS IN DONIS SUIS. + +Rambling haphazard around the little town, such names as Frog Street, +Crackwell Street and the like, tickle our fancy as a quaint relief to +modern street nomenclature, which, usually devoid of originality, too +often supplants local names racy of the soil. + +[Illustration: A BIT OF OLD TENBY] + +A sudden turn down a narrow lane, hanging, as it were, upon the steep +hillside, reveals glimpses of old-world Tenby which beguile our +wandering steps from the hard highway. + +At a secluded corner of these by-lanes a gray and weather-beaten old +house stands, forsaken and neglected, amid the meaner dwellings that +encompass it. The well-proportioned windows and pointed doorway which +adorn the massive front lend a certain air of faded dignity, as though +the old place had once 'seen better days'; while above the high-pitched +roof peers one of those curious, rounded erections called hereabouts +'Flemish' chimneys. + +In conjunction with the ancient gables at the rear of the adjacent +saddler's shop, this interesting old structure forms one of the most +picturesque relics yet remaining of the Tenby of 'auld lang syne.' + +Following hence the groups of stalwart fisher-folk as, with large air of +leisure, they stroll adown the hill, we soon find ourselves upon the +'Peere made for Shyppes' which encloses the little harbour. Here stood +in olden times the seamen's chapel of St. Julian, which was subsequently +converted into a bath-house: thus 'cleanliness comes next to godliness'; +and a pretty modern chapel now stands beside the quay. + +Close at hand, in a sheltered cove, the lifeboat lies in wait beside a +rudimentary iron 'peere,' which threatens to stretch its spindle shanks +athwart the comely crescent of the bay, beneath the fortress-crowned +islet of St. Catherine. + +The adjacent Castle Hill is crowned by a lofty watch-tower, some ruined +outworks of the ancient city walls, and a handsome marble statue of the +late Prince Consort, of heroic size: lower down stands a small but +well-arranged museum, which contains a representative collection of +local natural history, besides valuable cases of shells, coins, etc. + +[Illustration: OLD HOUSES AT TENBY.] + +Archæologists will notice with interest the small alabaster group of St. +George and the Dragon, rescued from a cottage in course of demolition +at Tenby; and a fine specimen of a quern, used for grinding corn, found +near Popton. The exterior is fashioned into the form of a human face, +and as it is known that only the earlier examples were ornamented, this +quern is considered to be of very high antiquity. + +The seaward face of the hill is laid out in winding walks, with +sheltered seats at intervals, where visitors and townsfolk congregate +upon the sunny slopes to indulge in a spell of _dolce far niente_, or to +enjoy the wide panorama of land and sea that lies outspread around. + +[Illustration: THE WALLS OF TENBY TOWN] + +The return to the town may be varied by strolling along the broad, firm +sands beneath curiously contorted rocky cliffs, aglow just now with +masses of the white and red valerian. Clambering up a long flight of +steps, we soon find ourselves abreast of the massive walls which in +olden times protected the town upon its landward side, and terminated +upon the precipitous edge of the cliff in the quaint, ivy-clad tower +that rises right here before us. + +These ancient walls are still (in spite of hard treatment in bygone +times from vandalistic hands) in a fair state of preservation; and form, +with their boldly-projecting towers and broken battlements, the most +striking and picturesque feature of the town. They are perhaps seen to +the best advantage from near the north-west corner, whence a general +_coup d'oeil_ is gained of their respective sides. + +Sauntering under the shady trees on the site of the ancient moat, we +pass beside the south-west front, to which, as by far the most complete, +we now devote our attention. Here we notice how the sturdy round tower +which guards the converging angle spreads boldly out at its base; anon +we observe another tower of similar form, through which the easy-going +authorities of some past time have actually permitted a huge opening to +be hewn to admit the passage of a ropewalk! + +[Illustration: ST. GEORGE'S GATE, TENBY.] + +A stone's-throw farther on rises the broad bulk of the great St. +George's Bastion, marking the entrance to one of the principal town +gates, and pierced with five archways, in two of which the grooves for +the portcullis may still be discerned. Overhead a gangway ran around the +inner face of the wall, which is provided with lancet-holes for the use +of archers, and is crowned with the usual corbelled battlements. +Altogether this fine old structure presents a most picturesque +appearance; its ancient archways being frequently enlivened by groups of +market folk passing to and fro, while the rough gray stones of its +venerable walls are wreathed with masses of flowering plants. A number +of shabby dwellings which encumbered the approach have recently been +swept away; one dilapidated old building with curious circular chimneys +(said to have been used as a lazar-house) alone being spared. + +Beyond St. George's Bastion rises another ivy-mantled tower, near which +we espy a stone panel let into the wall, bearing the superscription 'Ao +1588, E. R.' Being interpreted, this inscription records that Tenby +walls were repaired in the thirtieth year of good Queen Bess's reign. + +Farther on the wall is pierced with a wide open archway, and terminates +abruptly upon the precipitous edge of the cliff in a square, +battlemented turret bearing a strong family likeness to the church +towers of this locality. The walls seem to have been pierced with a +double row of lancet-holes for the use of archers, the upper tier being +commanded by a gangway carried upon pointed arches, while the lower row +is accessible from the ground. + +The day waxing warm and sunny, we now make for the harbour again, and +charter one of the numerous well-found pleasure-boats which lie in wait +for visitors. An hour's pleasant sail over a sea blue as the +Mediterranean, and we land upon the shores of Caldey Island, like the +Old Man of the Sea, pick-a-back fashion astride the boatman's back. + +'This island,' says George Owen, 'is verie fertile and yeldeth plentie +of corne; all their plowes goe with horses, for oxen the inhabitantes +dare not keepe, fearing the purveyors of the pirattes as they themselves +told me, whoe often make their provisions there by theire owne +comission, and comonlie to the good contentment of the inhabitantes, +when conscionable theefes arrive there.' + +A grassy track, winding up the sloping bank amidst gorse and bracken, +now leads across a stream and beside a few quarrymen's cottages to a +dejected-looking chapel. In a neglected corner of the interior we +discover the object of our visit--to wit, a recumbent oblong stone +inscribed with certain archaic characters, which have been rendered as +follows: 'In the Name both of the Cross itself and of Him who was fixed +thereon, pray for the soul of Catuoconus.' Certain lines of the +character known as Ogham may also be discerned upon the sides or edges +of this hoary monolith. + +[Illustration: THE PRIORY CALDY ISLAND] + +Striking across the open fields, with the tall white lighthouse for our +guide, we turn aside to visit an old farmstead that contains the scanty +ruins of Caldey Priory. This venerable foundation owes its origin to +Robert, son of Martin de Turribus, and was annexed as a cell to the +abbey of St. Dogmaels, near Cardigan. + +A wise old saw which observes 'There is nothing new but what has been +forgotten,' may find a verification amidst such neglected nooks as +these; whose long-forgotten relics of a bygone age greet the wayfarer +with all the charm of novelty. + +Above the adjacent farmyard premises rises the quaint little +weather-beaten tower of the old priory chapel; its slender spire leaning +perilously awry, its stonework fast crumbling to decay. From the summit +of the tower hangs the crazy bell, with rusty chain and silent clapper. +One daintily-fashioned window is roughly blocked with brickwork, another +gives entrance to a pigeon-cot. + +Within the adjoining house we are shown a fine old vaulted kitchen, with +deep-browed windows, and rude stone settle along the wall. Thence we +penetrate to a cool, dark chamber exhibiting traces of a gracefully +proportioned window enclosed by a pointed arch, long since blocked up. + +Retracing our steps beneath hedges of flowering fuchsia, we return by +breezy, fern-clad commons and well-tilled fields to the landing-place; +where an amphibious-looking individual is laying out lobster-pots among +the weed-strewn rocks. + +Caldey has ever been famed for the excellence of its oyster fisheries; +not to speak of the crabs and lobsters caught around its rocky shores, +which are commended by an Elizabethan writer who appears to have been an +authority on such matters. 'The Lapster,' says this enthusiast, 'sett +whole on the table, yieldeth Exercise, Sustenance and Contemplation; +exercise in cracking his legs and Clawes, sustenance by eating the Meate +thereof, and contemplation by beholding the curious Work of his complete +Armour, both in hue and workmanship.' + +'And the Crabbe,' continues the same writer, 'doth sensiblye feele the +Course of the Moone; fillinge and emptyeing yt selfe with the encrease +and decrease thereof, and therefore ys saied to be best at the full +Moone.' + +Once more afloat, we are speedily wafted past the cave-pierced cliffs of +St. Margaret's Isle, and across the placid waters of Caldey Sound. +Running beneath the fortress-crowned St. Catherine's Rock, we round the +Castle Hill and disembark in Tenby's sheltered haven. + +Though our rambles about its old streets have by no means exhausted the +curious nooks of Tenby, yet we have all broad Pembrokeshire lying as it +were at our doors, and waiting only for an 'open sesame' to disclose its +most interesting features. By far the larger number of these lie within +a measurable distance of Tenby, whence access is easily obtained to them +by road, rail, or boat. Moreover, by taking counsel with the local +time-table, the visitor may fare forth upon his way at a conscionable +hour of the morning and be back again at Tenby ere nightfall supervenes. + +The curious old chest figured at the foot of this chapter formed the +ancient treasury of Tenby. It is enriched with sixteenth-century German +ironwork of very quaint design--witness the ladies pulling the +elephants' 'noses,'--and has seven bolts and two padlocks. The keys of +these latter were held by the two town bailiffs, while the Mayor was +responsible for those of the main lock and of the tiller inside. After +having been sold as old iron some five-and-thirty years ago, this +interesting relic was rescued by a Tenby resident, through whose +courtesy we are enabled to show the accompanying sketch. + +[Illustration: THE ANCIENT TREASURY OF TENBY.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +ROUND ABOUT THE RIDGEWAY. + + 'The year's at the spring + And day's at the dawn; + Morning's at seven; + The hillside's dew-pearled; + The lark's on the wing; + The snail's on the thorn: + God's in the heaven-- + All's right with the world!' + + R. B. + + +One fine May morning, after a night of soft, seasonable rain, we are up +betimes and away into the green borderland that encompasses Tenby town +upon its western side. Low, hazy clouds drift athwart the landscape, +with glints of sunlight touching it into life here and there; a gentle +breeze rustling the trees and bowing the growing crops before it. + +A cottager, smoking a morning pipe on the bench before his door, gives +us the _sele_ of the day as we pass, and would fain spin a yarn about +the 'craps' and the drought; but, turning a deaf ear to his +lucubrations, we go our ways rejoicing, and ere long find ourselves +skirting a lush green tract of marshland, whose dark levels are gay with +yellow flags, marsh marigolds and feathery 'ragged Robin.' + +Diverging to the right and plunging into a grove of aged ash-trees, we +soon emerge upon an open glade where stand the crumbling walls of an +ancient house called Scotsborough. This was the ancestral home of the +family of Ap Rhys, who repose in Tenby Church beneath the monument we +have already visited; and a ramble amidst the intricate passages and +loopholed chambers of the ruined mansion, with their huge chimneys and +cavernous ovens, shews that it was erected at a time when a man's house +still continued to do duty, at a pinch, as his castle. Having explored +this picturesque old pile, we hark back once more to the road. Trudging +along a hollow, shady lane past a pretty mill, we now strike into a +secluded pathway which drops steeply down beside a prattling rill, +beneath overarching trees whose interlacing branches fret the greensward +with a mantle of shadowy verdure. + +Overhead the fleecy clouds are swept by the breeze into graceful forms +suggestive of sea-birds' wings; while the sunny air is musical with the +song of birds and the distant bleating of sheep, and sweet with the +scent of chestnut and elder bloom. A newly-fledged Burnet butterfly +tries his smart speckled wings; whilst a passing 'Blue' out-rivals the +hue of the dainty speedwell in the hedgerow; which peeps from amidst a +tangle of pushing young bracken, hooded 'lords and ladies,' bluebells +and wild geranium. + +[Illustration: GUMFRESTON CHURCH.] + +Here in this secluded nook, 'the world forgetting, by the world forgot,' +nestles the venerable church of Gumfreston; its ivy-mantled tower scarce +rivalling the lofty trees which screen it from the outer world. +Approached by footpaths only, a rustic wicket gives access to the +churchyard; crossing which we enter the lowly edifice by an arched +doorway that opens into a roomy old porch of primitive construction, +completely overgrown with ivy. This was in all probability the original +church, and is entirely built of stone; the roof, after the manner of +the older churches of the district, being fashioned into a simple kind +of vault. Upon either side is a rude stone bench; and a stoup, or font, +of archaic design is built into the wall. + +Passing through the inner door, some slight traces of damaged fresco +which appear upon the whitewashed wall may, by a vigorous exercise of +the imagination, be conjectured to represent the martyrdom of St. +Lawrence, the patron saint of Gumfreston Church. Something roughly +resembling a tennis-racket may pass for the martyr's gridiron; while a +gigantic foot, and certain objects vaguely suggesting a pair of scissors +and a comb, are faintly discernible amidst a number of other +half-obliterated details. + +A curious recess which bulges outwards from the same wall contains an +old stone font; and the small adjacent transept is connected with the +chancel by one of those singular 'squint' passages peculiar to this +locality. + +An unusual effect is produced by the low, simple arch--scarce more than +5 feet wide--between the chancel and the nave, which has a shallow, +pointed recess on either side of it, doubtless designed to hold figures. + +[Illustration: CHURCH PLATE AT GUMFRESTON.] + +In one of these latter we observe the primitive-looking pewter flagon +and paten which serve the purpose of church plate. Alongside them stands +a queer little cracked handbell of bronze-green, rust-eaten metal; this +is the Sanctus-bell which, in pre-Reformation days, was rung in the +church upon the elevation of the Host, and was carried at the head of +funeral processions. Anent its present damaged condition the story goes +that, during some solemn rite of exorcism with bell, book and candle, a +certain fallen potentate suddenly appeared in a flash of brimstone +flame, and broke the bell in impotent revenge. + +Passing through the chancel, we now enter a quaint little side-chapel +with pretty two-light window and low, groined ceiling whose stony ribs +look strong enough to carry a tower. The latter, however, is on the +other side of the church, and is probably of later date; it is built in +several stages, the one below the bell-chamber having pigeon-holes +around inside the walls; while overhead hangs an ancient bell inscribed +SANCTA MARIA ORA PRO NOBIS. + +Hard by the church upon its southern side a flight of worn, stone steps +leads down to three clear springs, which well up side by side in a mossy +dell, and ripple away beneath lush grasses and flowering marsh plants. +These wells, although in such close proximity, have been found to differ +in their medicinal properties; and were resorted to as a cure for 'all +the ills that flesh is heir to' by the simple folk of a bygone +generation. + +Near at hand is the site of an old cockpit. In days of yore this +exhilarating sport was very popular with Pembrokeshire men, who usually +chose Easter Monday and such-like 'times of jollitie' to indulge in +their favourite pastime. + +At the corner of the churchyard stands an old deserted cottage which, +after many vicissitudes, has fallen upon degenerate days. Originally the +rectory, and then the poor-house of the parish, it is now a neglected +ruin half hidden amidst a tangle of shrubs and climbing plants. + +Most visitors to Gumfreston will notice the fine old farmhouse that +rises cheek-by-jowl with the carriage-road from Tenby. If we are to +believe the tradition of the countryside, this is the most ancient abode +in the county. Be that as it may, the place bears traces of no mean +antiquity; and is an excellent specimen of a Pembrokeshire homestead of +the olden times. + +Out from the main structure projects a mighty porch, running up the full +height of the house, and pierced with round holes by way of windows +above the main doorway. Penetrating into the interior, we enter a +low-browed kitchen with open raftered ceiling and roomy settle beside +the cavernous fireplace; its solid old timbers worn to a fine polish by +generations of rustic shoulders. A bright wood-fire burns on the open +hearth, and over it a big black kettle swings in the hollow of the +chimney. + +The chimney stacks cropping boldly out, haphazard as it were, lean +independently this way or that in the quaintest way imaginable; and the +broad gable ends are pierced with many pigeon-holes. The place is built +as though intended to last for all time, and is enveloped in the +customary coating of weather-stained whitewash. + +We now push merrily on beneath a cloudless sky; meeting an exhilarating +sea-breeze as the road mounts upwards. Luxuriant hedgerows (a rare sight +hereabouts) presently give place to open downland, affording +widespreading views across rich, rolling woodlands cropped close by the +strong salt breezes. Upon the broad slopes of the Ridgeway groups of +white farm-buildings sparkle amidst ruddy ploughfields; while far beyond +them are Caldey Island and the pale blue line of the sea. + +Once more a pleasant field-path beguiles our errant footsteps. Leading +across an open common, it presently drops into a narrow by-lane, which +winds among hazel copses and undergrowth beside the marshy course of +the Ritec, where cattle are browsing leisurely, half hidden amidst lusty +water-plants. + +Anon our lane degenerates into a hollow watercourse fringed with the +greenest of mosses and wineglass ferns; insomuch that, like Agag, we are +compelled to walk delicately across the rough stepping-stones that here +do duty as a footpath; while the hedgerows fairly meet overhead in a +tangle of wild roses, hawthorn and fragrant honeysuckle. + +Emerging all too soon upon the dusty highway, we approach the pretty +village of St. Florence. Being by this time not a little 'sharp set,' we +enter a modest wayside inn, and proceed to whet our appetites upon the +rations that the _gute verständige Hausfrau_ soon sets before us. Let us +unfold our simple bill of fare: New-laid eggs galore; a mighty loaf of +likely-looking bread, sweet from the clean wood oven; and a draught of +the 'cup that'--in moderation--'cheers, but not inebriates.' + +In one corner of the low-ceiled room, the glass panels of an +old-fashioned cupboard reveal a heterogeneous collection of rustic +crockery-ware. The narrow mantel-board is adorned with a curious +centrepiece, representing Wesley preaching to a sham china clock. This +_chef d'oeuvre_ is supported on either hand by china figures, rather +the worse for wear, riding to market upon a pillion; of which the +rickety mirror behind renders a dull and distorted replica. + +From the opposite wall the bucolic face of a former proprietor stares +stonily out upon us, as he grasps his doll-like daughter's arm after the +manner of a pump-handle; this interesting group being flanked by the +inevitable memorial cards to lost ones long since 'buried.' + +Meanwhile, as we ply the peaceful calumet, mine hostess tells of quaint +old customs that, until only the other day, survived in this quiet +countryside. 'I mind the time,' says she, 'when I was a girl, when there +used to be a Vanity Fair in the village every Michaelmas tide. It lasted +three whole days, and the men and maids would turn out in their best +then, and all the housen must be smartened up and put in order; and +Squire, he give every working man in the place a bran-new suit of +clothes to his back. Ah, there was fine doings then, and I've a-hard +tell that they'd used to run a keg of spirits, or what not, from the big +cellars down Tenby way. But that was afore my time.' + +A stroll around the village reveals some picturesque corners here and +there; a few of the older cottages retaining the vast rounded chimneys, +bulging ovens and pointed doorways of an earlier age. The church, too, +contains attractive features. A peep into the little edifice reveals a +curious vaulted interior, with its queer 'squint' passage set askew, and +flat limestone arches of peculiar form on either side of the chancel. + +The honours of the place are done by a garrulous old dame, whose +russet-apple complexion, set amidst well-starched frills above a +homespun 'whittle,' shows how well she has weathered her fourscore +hard-working winters. + +Upon the gable wall outside, we notice a memorial slab commemorating a +venerable couple who attained the mellow ages of 102 and 104, +respectively; and a singular epitaph on Archdeacon Rudd: while the +broken shaft of an ancient cross rises amidst the well-tended monuments +of this flowery God's acre. + +On our return to Tenby we pass a ruined water-mill, standing in a wooded +dingle beside a reed-grown stream. Lanes and field-paths lead us down +the valley of the Ritec, beside a group of tumbled houses whose massive, +ivy-wreathed walls, with their narrow loopholed windows, may possibly +guard those big cellars of which we have lately 'a-hard tell.' + +Thence through a hollow dingle, where golden Fritillary butterflies +float to and fro in the dappled sunlight; and where the +fast-disappearing badger may still at times be met with. Anon we diverge +to Carswall, to examine a group of remarkable stone buildings with +vaulted chambers, huge fireplaces and bulging chimneys--puzzling objects +to the archæologist. From Carswall we strike across upland pastures, +where a farm lad is 'tickling' the ruddy soil with a primitive kind of +harrow, composed of a bundle of brushwood drawn behind a horse. + +Erelong we turn aside to explore the recesses of Hoyle's Mouth; a vast +cavern worn deep in the solid limestone of the Ridgeway, and fringed +with fantastic stalactites resembling gigantic icicles. Relics of +remote antiquity, discovered here, prove that the cavern has been a +place of refuge in times beyond tradition; and a local fable affirms +that it is connected with that 'mervellows caverne,' yclept the Wogan, +far away beneath the Castle of Pembroke! + +Half a mile hence, in a nook of the hill, stands the old farmhouse of +Trefloyne; erstwhile the abode of a loyal family who, during Civil War +times, paid the penalty of their constancy by being hunted forth by the +Parliamentary soldiers; while their home was delivered over to +destruction. + +Another half-hour's walk takes us back to Tenby by way of Windpipe Lane; +where a marble tablet by the roadside marks the site of St. John's Well, +for many generations the sole water supply of the inhabitants. 'One +thinge,' says Leland, 'is to be merveled at; there is no Welle yn the +Towne, yt is said; whereby they be forced to fesh theyre Water from +Saint Johns without ye Towne.' Nowadays, however, they have changed all +that; and have provided a water supply more suited to modern +requirements. + +In the early days of the century, considerable ruins of the ancient +Hospital of St. John still existed near this spot; of which, however, +every trace has since been quite obliterated. + +Another pleasant excursion from Tenby takes the visitor past the little +secluded creek of Waterwinch; giving him, _en route_, a charming glimpse +of the town, rising above the wooded shores of the north bay. Thence a +steep, narrow lane leads to the village of Saundersfoot, a favourite +seaside resort with a diminutive harbour, an hotel and groups of +lodging-houses. + +The whole of this district has been, at some remote geological period, +one vast forest, of which traces still exist upon the adjacent coast; +where submerged trees, and balks of timber encrusted with shells, are +occasionally found. Tall chimney-shafts, rising amidst the woods, attest +the presence of anthracite coal beneath our feet; this is raised from +several mines in the neighbourhood, and sent down by tramway to +Saundersfoot for exportation. + +Pursuing a delightfully shady road that winds inland past the grounds +of Hean Castle, we soon find ourselves amidst some of the loveliest +sylvan scenery in all the countryside. Presently we get a peep at the +church of St. Issels, almost lost to view amidst green aisles of +embowering foliage. + +As at Gumfreston, by footpaths only can the little edifice be +approached; while the stepping-stones across the rivulet are +supplemented by a rustic foot-bridge, for use in times when the stream +is in flood. This church has lately been restored by some appreciative +hand; it has the characteristic tall gray tower such as we have grown +accustomed to in this locality, and contains a handsome font of +respectable antiquity. + +Hence the wayfarer may return to Tenby by way of Bonville's Court, a +fortified manor-house of the Edwardian period, of which but a single +dilapidated tower and stair-turret remain: or by fetching a compass +round, and wandering through quiet lanes draped with hartstongue fern, +ivy and convolvulus, he may explore the country away towards Jeffreyston +or Redberth; returning over high ground beside the finely-timbered +estate of Ivy Tower; and so home by the previously mentioned route +through Gumfreston village. + + * * * * * + +Nestling in a sunny nook where the Ridgeway meets the sea, the little +village of Penally, peeping coyly out from amidst embowering trees, +forms a pretty feature in many a local prospect. + +The road, winding inland, leads us by a long causeway across a broad +tract of marshland, now golden with iris and kingcups, through which the +Ritec stream meanders to the sea. It is said that, in ancient times, the +tidal waters extended up this hollow vale as far as the village of St. +Florence; and there is an old map at Tenby in which a vessel in full +sail floats upon the very spot where we now stand. + +[Illustration: PENALLY HOUSE.] + +Thence up we climb again across the foot-hills of the Ridgeway, until +ere long the first cottages of Penally 'heave in sight,' bowered in +roses, clematis and honeysuckle, and set amidst gardens aglow with +gladiolus, peonies, tulips, geraniums, fuchsias and Japan lilies. Was +it not Washington Irving who remarked that we English had, in our +country gardens, 'caught the coy and furtive graces of Nature, and +spread them, like witchery, around these rural abodes'? + +Before us lies a stretch of open greensward, shaded by groups of oak and +hawthorn, whence rises the gray tower of the parish church; a building +which has been restored to a semblance of newness that belies its +venerable traditions. + +The interior has a pair of the now familiar 'squint' passages, a few old +tombs and a good stone font: and, _mirabile dictu_, is provided with the +electric light. For this valuable innovation the village is indebted to +Clement Williams, Esq., Mayor of Tenby, whose pretty country residence +stands just above the church. Beneath the overshadowing trees in the +churchyard stands a finely carved early Celtic cross, similar to those +found in Ireland; of which we shall see an even handsomer specimen when +visiting Carew. + +In former days Penally was held in high veneration, from a tradition +that the miracle-working bones of St. Teilo, Bishop of Llandaff, rested +here during their progress through the district. + +A curious incident occurred here many years ago. During a fox-hunt in +the vicinity, Reynard, being hard pressed by the hounds, sought refuge +upon the roofs of some old farm buildings near the church. Here he led +his pursuers a lively chase, but was eventually brought to earth and +captured after an unusually exciting run. + +We now push on for the wild scenery of the rocky coast overlooking +Caldey Sound; pursuing a rough, sandy track amidst stretches of golden +gorse. + +The springy turf underfoot is literally tapestried with wild thyme, +herb-Robert and thrift; over which butterflies, brown and azure-blue, +float to and fro in the warm, still air; while from the radiant sky the +lark's bright song falls pleasantly upon our ears. Hereabouts one must +needs keep one's 'weather eye' open, to elude a tumble among the +countless rabbit-holes that form pitfalls on every hand, whence the +startled denizens scamper briskly to cover from beneath our very noses. + +Presently we approach the secluded haven of Lydstep, and obtain a +glimpse of the noble headland called Proud Giltar, whose red-brown +cliffs rise sheer from the blue waves, with Caldey Island lying in the +middle distance. + +Traversing the pebbly beach, we pass near to Lydstep Point, a +picturesque headland curiously scarped by disused limestone quarries. We +now strike inland beneath a grove of trees growing in a sheltered +corner, and ascend a narrow lane to a lonely cottage at the head of the +glen. Hence we plunge down a deep, rocky ravine, whose seaward face is +honeycombed with the caverns for which the place is famous. + +Before us, league upon league, an ocean of purest blue spreads to the +remote horizon; its sunny plain shimmering beneath white summer +cloudlets, and empurpled by a thousand transient shadows. Huge rocks +crop out on every hand from amidst the tangle of luxuriant undergrowth +that conceals the entrance to the Smugglers' Cave, a name we leave to +tell its own wild tale of bygone times. Onward we scramble, down to the +'beached margent' of the shallow bay; whence a scene of rare beauty is +beheld. + +From the unsullied strand vast buttresses and pinnacles of lichen-clad +limestone rise sheer and inaccessible; their solid ribs pierced with +shadowy caverns wide as a cathedral vault and dark as Erebus, which +tempt the wanderer to explore their deep, unknown recesses. +Crystal-clear pools, fringed with dainty seaweeds and gemmed with +starfish and sea-anemones, nestle in every hollow of the rocky shore; +while shells of various tints encrust the untrodden sands. + +Countless sea-birds wheel to and fro in the shadow of the cliffs, which +echo their discordant cries as they clamour above the heads of the +unwelcome intruders. Dusky cormorants scud with necks outstretched +athwart the sparkling waves, while kittiwakes and guillemots crowd +shoulder to shoulder upon the inaccessible ledges. + +An hour is pleasantly spent groping amidst the hollows of a resounding +cavern, or peering into the jewelled depths of some rocky sea-pool; or, +anon, watching the plash of the translucent waves. At length, hungry as +hawks, we beat a retreat to a sheltered nook amongst the rocks, to +discuss _con gusto_ our _al-fresco_ lunch. + +Fascinated by these entrancing prospects, we linger in this wonderland +until the advancing tide hints at a speedy departure, when, scrambling +once again to the upper world, we strike away for the solitary hamlet of +Lydstep. + +Hard by the road stand two scattered groups of dilapidated buildings, +sometimes called by the imposing titles of the Palace, and the Place of +Arms. In the good old times--so runs the legend--Aircol Llawhir, King of +Dyfed, held his royal Court at this place. + +Be that as it may, the existing structures are probably not older than +the fourteenth century, and may be ascribed to those yeomen proprietors, +a 'peg' above the common farmer folk, who erected these stout walls to +safeguard their goods and chattels. + +The return journey lies along a pleasant, open road between the Ridgeway +and the cliffs; affording lovely glimpses of the rugged coast-line and +the land-locked sea. At Penally a return train puts in a timely +appearance, and conveys us in a few minutes back to quarters, while the +declining sun sets the world aflame in the glow of its lingering rays. + + * * * * * + +There is a spring-like feeling in the crisp morning air as we drive +leisurely along the Ridgeway road, bound westward ho! to 'fresh woods +and pastures new.' + +Fairy cobwebs, gemmed with glistening dewdrops, sparkle in every +hedgerow as we mount slowly up the steep, ruddy flank of the Ridgeway. +Bowling merrily along the smooth, well-kept road that traverses its +breezy summit, we are in all probability following the course of some +primitive trackway, used from the earliest times when enemies lurked in +the lowlands. + +Ever wider grows the outlook as we jaunt along; the glory of the scene +culminating as we clamber up the last of these steep 'pinches,' and call +a halt, near a farm called the Rising Sun, to scan the summer landscape +spread around. + +Close at hand broad meadows, green with the promise of spring, spread +away down a winding valley tufted with shadowy woodlands, whence gray +old steeples peep above the clustering cottage roofs. Far away amidst +the folding hills, the walls and towers of lordly Carew rise near a +silvery sheet of water--an arm of Milford Haven--backed by leagues of +unexplored country, o'ertopped by the faint blue line of the Precelly +Mountains--a glorious scene indeed! + + 'Ah! world unknown! how charming is thy view, + Thy Pleasures many, and each pleasure new!' + +Turning across the lane, we lean upon a neighbouring gate, and leisurely +scan the fair prospect over land and sea. Yonder the snow-white cottages +gleam amidst the ruddy ploughlands. Seawards, the gorse-clad downs +plunge in warm red sandstone cliffs to the all-encircling ocean, that +stretches in unbroken span from St. Govan's Head, past Caldey Isle, to +the gray-blue line of distant Devon, with Lundy lying under its lee. + +Forward again, betwixt pleasant greenswards tangled with fragrant +gorse, brambles and unfurling bracken, within whose cool retreats the +yellow-hammer lurks in his new spring bravery; while smart little +goldfinches hunt in pairs amidst the thistle-heads under the hedgerow. + +Gradually we slant away downwards, passing an ancient tumulus whence, in +the old war times, a beacon fire gave warning against threatened +invasion; and catching glimpses ahead of ruined towers and +curtain-walls, where time-honoured old Pembroke nods over its memories +of 'the days that are no more.' Soon we are clattering through the +diminutive village of Lamphey. Here we dismiss our driver, and, turning +across park-like meadows where cattle are grazing under the broad-limbed +oaks, we soon descry the ivy-mantled ruins of Lamphey Palace. + +The graceful character of the architecture, and calm, reposeful +situation in this peaceful dell, combine to enhance the peculiar charm +that hangs around these venerable ruins. Thanks to the timely care of +their present owner, the remaining portions have been preserved from +further desecration, and are freely shown to visitors who pass this way. + +[Illustration: AT LAMPHEY PALACE.] + +At Lamphey the Bishops of St. Davids possessed an episcopal manor, and +built themselves a palace there; so that, from the middle of the +thirteenth century, they paid frequent visits to the place. Withdrawing +hither from affairs of State, they assumed the _rôle_ of the paternal +country squire; tilling the fat acres spread around their walls, and +stocking their snug granaries, such as may still be traced at the +farmstead called Lamphey Park. + +John Leland, travelling this way in his tour through South Wales, tells +how he 'came by meane Hills and Dales to Llanfeith, where the Bishop of +St. Davids hath a place of Stoone, after Castel Fascion.' + +Strolling through a ripe old garden, set round with sheltering walls, we +proceed to trace such features of the fine old fabric as the hand of +Time has spared to us. Passing the refectory, a picturesque building +draped in ivy and Virginia-creeper, we are confronted by the tall mass +of the banqueting-hall, with its pointed windows and pretty projecting +chimney. + +Hence a winding stair in the thickness of the wall leads to the ruined +parapet. Near the east end of the hall stands the chapel, roofless now, +and wreathed in luxuriant ivy; one graceful traceried window alone +bearing witness to Bishop Vaughan's artistic genius. + +Farther away across a verdant meadow, and standing, so to speak, _en +échelon_ to the main fabric, rise the ruins of the domestic apartments; +approached by a dilapidated flight of outside steps, and crowned with an +elegant open arcade such as is usually associated with the work of that +famous builder, Bishop Gower. In a corner of the adjacent field we +observe the vivarium, or fish-pond of the priory. + +We now return to the neighbouring gardens, in order to sketch the +picturesque little tower which stands isolated amidst trim walks and +old-fashioned flower-beds. + +It is difficult to assign a _raison d'être_ for the existence of this +quaint old structure. By some folks it has been called the gate-tower to +the inner ward; but others, again, have styled it the priests' +dwelling-place; and our investigations seem to point to some such use as +the latter. + +A stone stairway, hollowed in the thickness of the wall, leads to an +upper chamber, which contains a niche (suggestive of a piscina), a +fireplace, and several small windows. The peaked roof, which is modern, +is surrounded by open, pointed arches corbelled out from the wall below, +and finished with plain battlements. Thus, with its picturesque medley +of weather-stained brick, stone and timber, touched here and there with +green moss and golden lichens, this curious tower proves an attractive +bit for the sketch-book. + +At Lamphey Palace Robert Devereux, the ill-fated Earl of Essex, spent +several years of his youth; and is reputed to have quitted the place +'the most finished gentleman of his time.' + +Superstitious folk, when approaching these ruins after nightfall, while +'the moping owl doth to the moon complain,' may (or may not) have their +nerves agreeably thrilled by the apparition of a mysterious white lady, +presumably a Devereux, who is said to haunt these historic shades at +that witching hour! + +Lamphey Church, which lies a short half-mile away, has been too much +modernized to detain us long. The tall, plain tower has been preserved, +however, in its original simplicity; and the large square font, of early +type, has a little ornamentation of good character. + +Crossing the railway bridge past _the_ shop of the village, with its +alluring display of miscellaneous _olla podrida_ in the window, we +pursue our shadows along a dusty country road; cutting off a circuitous +corner by taking to a pleasant field-path. A bright little country maid +pioneers us hence into Hodgeston, a sleepy hamlet consisting of some +half-dozen whitewashed cottages clustering around the sorry remnants of +a village green, now shrunk to half its old proportions owing to recent +encroachments. + +Obtaining the key at one of these cottages, we now make straight for the +parish church, which rises beyond a grove of trees, less than a bowshot +away. + +Seen from the outside, this little edifice looks unostentatious enough, +with its slender western tower, chancel, and nave devoid of the usual +excrescences; but upon entering we soon find matter to arouse our +keenest interest. + +[Illustration: THE CHANCEL HODGESTON CHURCH] + +The nave is simple, though well proportioned; setting off to fullest +advantage the rich and elaborate features that adorn the Decorated +chancel. Good traceried windows rise upon either hand, surmounted by an +open timber roof, with the pretty ball-flower ornament running around +the top of the wall. + +Upon the south side of the chancel stands a handsome triple sedilia; its +shapely, richly-moulded arches aflame with elaborate crockets, which +cluster upwards to the large, florid finials. A plain stone bench flanks +the lower part of the wall, whence projects a flight of steps that gave +access to the vanished rood-loft. + +We also notice a dainty piscina sunk in the thickness of the wall, +having a beautiful ornamental canopy, closely resembling that of the +sedilia, and a fine old Norman font. One cannot but feel surprise that +such rich design and delicate workmanship should be thus hidden away in +this remote locality; and can only hazard the conjecture that the +influence of Bishop Gower (whose handiwork is seen to such advantage in +his great palace at St. Davids) must have made itself felt even in +outlying parishes such as this. There is reason to suppose, too, that a +religious house existed at Hodgeston in olden times, which would +probably exert a refining influence upon the local craftsmen, for the +monks of old were often goodly builders. + +These charming features, then, provide attractive matter for the +sketch-book, which keeps us pegging away until well on towards sundown: +so that, as we wend our way back to Lamphey Station, we lounge over a +stile formed from some broken ship's timbers to enjoy the exquisite +after-glow, which lingers still above the falling dusk as the train +carries us homeward to Tenby. + +[Illustration: ANCIENT QUERN OR HAND MILL.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +MANORBERE CASTLE: AND GIRALDUS CAMBRENSIS. + + +Through the courtesy of a hospitable friend, we now shift our moorings +from Tenby's tourist-haunted streets, to the quiet precincts of +Manorbere Castle. Within those time-honoured walls the charm of modern +hospitality is enhanced by contrast with its mediæval background. + +Quitting the train at the little wayside station, a quarter of an hour's +pleasant drive through deep lanes fringed with hartstongue fern, and gay +with 'floureis white and blewe, yellow and rede,' gives us our first +glimpse of the stately old pile. Crowning a low, isolated hill, the +castle stands out 'four square to all the winds of heaven' against a +silvery expanse of the distant ocean; for, as old Leland says: 'This +place is not in the Hyeway, but standith neere the shore of the Severn +Se.' + +[Illustration: MANORBERE CASTLE FROM THE EAST.] + +A country lad opens a gate giving access to a rough meadow, flanked by +the remains of barbican walls and ruined bastions; traversing which we +presently draw rein before the broad, landward front of the castle. +Crossing the grim but inoffensive drawbridge, our friend explains the +ingenious device by which, in the 'good old times,' an intruder must +perforce 'turn turtle' upon a sort of human beetle-trap. Overhead are +seen the openings whence the garrison might pour down 'something +lingering and humorous, with molten lead in it,' by way of warm welcome +to the foe. + +Passing beneath the ivy-mantled gate-tower, we emerge upon the spacious +greensward of the inner court, which is enclosed on every hand by hoary +walls and turrets, whose weather-beaten ruins tell of heavy treatment at +the hand of Father Time. + +[Illustration: MANORBERE CASTLE.] + +For it is a notable fact in the history of Manorbere Castle, and one in +which we are indebted for its relative state of preservation, that, +unlike its great neighbours of Pembroke and Carew, it has never +withstood a siege. Moreover, having ceased to be inhabited at a very +early period, this castle has preserved unaltered the salient features +of its construction. The architecture is very simple and massive, being +indeed almost entirely devoid of ornament. Some of the apartments retain +the plain, pointed stone vault, devoid of ribs, so frequently met with +in South Wallian castles; while several of those circular chimneys, +peculiar to the locality, rise above the crumbling battlements. + +Continuing our stroll around the inner court we observe, hard by the +great gateway, the warders' room, with its narrow window commanding the +entrance. Behind it rises the huge, circular 'Bull' Tower; a massive +structure honeycombed with quaint little chambers approached by a +winding stone stair, and connected with the gate-tower by a narrow +passage in the thickness of the walls. Along the eastern side of the +court extends a long range of apartments, which constitute the modern +residence. These were resuscitated by Mr. J. R. Cobb, a former +occupant, who restored the castle in so admirable and conscientious a +manner, that the modern additions in no wise detract from their +venerable surroundings. Farther away in the same direction lie the +ruined kitchens, with their huge projecting chimneys, and ovens of such +capacity that, as tradition avers, the lord of the domain was wont to +regale his guests upon oxen roasted whole! + +[Illustration: MANORBERE CASTLE.] + +Traversing the sunny castle-garth, we pass a circular receptacle formed +in the ground for melting the lead aforesaid. Close at hand is a deep +draw-well, half full of water. Some twenty feet down this well is a +blocked-up archway which was opened years ago by old 'Billy,' the local +factotum, who discovered dark, subterranean passages running hence +beneath the adjacent ruins. Here he stumbled against casks and kegs left +behind by the smuggler folk, who in former days carried on their illicit +traffic around the neighbouring coast. At the same time, as a 'blind' +for the Excise officers, they carried on a traffic in grain, which was +stored for the purpose in large barns outside the castle. + +At the farther end of the courtyard rise the picturesque walls and +arches of a lofty group of buildings, containing the banqueting-hall and +chapel. This appears to have been the handsomest part of the castle; and +the great hall, with its broad flight of stone steps and stately range +of pointed windows overlooking the sea, must indeed have been a noble +apartment. Beneath it, in grim contrast, lurks a series of dark, +windowless dungeons. + +Entering the chapel by a flight of ruinous steps fringed with sprays of +spleenwort fern, we explore its dimly-lighted recesses, and discern +traces of half obliterated colour decoration. Clambering by a narrow +stone stairway to the grass-grown roof, we awaken the resentful clamour +of a colony of jackdaws; anon we peer into the tiny chamber for the +priest, and dive into the gloomy crypt, with its low-vaulted roof and +fireplace improvised from a desecrated tomb. + +[Illustration: MANORBERE CASTLE.] + +Then out once more into the castle garth, to follow the loopholed wall. +This terminates in the many-sided Pembroke Tower, which, bowered in +climbing plants, boasts a certain diminutive chamber wherein, as the +local tradition runs, Giraldus Cambrensis, the famous Welsh historian, +was born. Thence ensues another stretch of lofty wall, backed by a +series of curious flying buttresses: and our peregrination is completed +beneath the hoary, lichen-clad stonework of the great tower beside the +entrance gateway. This is the oldest part of the castle, and (with +apologies to the local tradition) probably the only portion of it that +dates as far back as the days of the worthy Giraldus. + +The water-gate, set deep in the seaward wall, is flanked by a huge mass +of stonework which still bears traces of the smugglers' ineffectual +efforts to dislodge it. Following a rough track that winds down the +rocky slope, we stroll onward beside a pretty rill of water +meandering, amidst bullrushes and marsh marigolds, to the moss-grown +wheel of the castle mill. Here we linger upon the rustic foot-bridge to +enjoy a charming retrospect. The gray walls of the grim old castle, +crowning the low, steep hill we have just descended, are reflected in +the placid stream at our feet. A group of low-roofed cottages, and the +mill with its plashing wheel, nestle in the valley beneath; while the +towers and gables of the quaint old parish church peep from a rival hill +that fronts the sea. + +The western flank of the castle looks down upon a weed-grown marsh, +occupying the site of a lake that formerly protected it upon that side. +Beside the marsh stands a picturesque old stone pigeon-house, smothered +in ivy and golden lichens; beyond which extends a secluded vale shaded +by oak, ash and holly, that formed part of the ancient park or chase of +Manorbere. The whole scene has a quiet beauty of its own very pleasant +to contemplate. + +Meanwhile, after tackling this fascinating bit, we roam across the +wind-blown sandhills, where a derelict boat, lying high and dry above +high-water mark, offers a convenient resting-place for the noontide +_siesta_. Stretching our limbs upon the warm, dry sand, and gazing +dreamily across the deep-blue line of the bay, we call to mind a certain +glowing description of the Manorbere of seven long centuries ago. Gerald +de Barri, the author of this panegyric (better known as Giraldus +Cambrensis), can scarce find words to express his admiration for the +home of his boyhood. + +'The castle called Maenor Pyrr,' says Gerald, 'is excellently defended +by towers and outworks, and is situated on the summit of a hill +extending on the western side towards the seaport; having on the +northern and southern sides a fine fish-pond under the walls, as +conspicuous for its grand appearance as for the depth of its water; and +a beautiful orchard on the same side enclosed on one part by a vineyard, +and on the other by a wood remarkable for the projection of its rocks +and the height of its hazel-trees. To the right of the promontory, +between the castle and the church, near the site of a very large lake +and mill, a rivulet of never-failing water flows through a valley +rendered sandy by the violence of the winds.' + +The same enthusiastic writer also portrays for us the main features of +the circumjacent country: 'Towards the west the Severn Sea, bending its +course to Ireland, enters a hollow bay at some distance from the castle; +and the southern rocks, if more extended towards the north, would render +it an admirable harbour for shipping. From this point you may see almost +all the ships from greater Britain, which the east wind drives towards +Ireland. The land is well supplied with corn, sea-fish and wines, +purchased abroad; and--what is of more importance--from its +neighbourhood to Ireland it enjoys a mild climate. + +'Dimetia therefore, with its seven _cantrefs_, is the most beautiful, as +well as the most powerful district in Wales; Pembroch the finest part of +the province of Dimetia; and the place I have just described the most +beautiful part of Pembroch. It is evident, therefore, that Maenor Pyrr +is the Paradise of all Wales!' + +Born at Manorbere Castle in the year 1146, Gerald de Barri was the +youngest son of William de Barri, Lord of Manorbere; grandson of Gerald +de Windsor, Governor of Pembroke Castle; and nephew of David +Fitz-Gerald, Bishop of St. Davids, from whom he received his early +education; while upon the maternal side Gerald was descended from Rhys +ap Tydwr, one of the princes of Wales. The career of one thus born, so +to speak, in the purple, was from the outset pretty well assured. Thus +we find the worthy Gerald promoted from the living of Tenby to a fat +canonry at Hereford Cathedral; and presently the snug archdeaconry of +St. Davids falls to his lot. + +About this time, Gerald joined with Archbishop Baldwin to preach the +Crusade throughout South Wales; when he kept a diary of his proceedings +which has proved of no little entertainment to after-comers. + +During his long and eventful career Gerald de Barri paid three several +visits to Rome, in order to push his interests at headquarters. He +accompanied Henry II. to France, and was entrusted by that monarch with +the education of his promising son John, of Magna Charta fame. Upon the +death of his uncle the Bishop, Gerald made strenuous efforts to obtain +the coveted appointment of his native see, refusing all other +preferments; but, failing of success, he retired in dudgeon from active +life, and spent the rest of his days in writing those literary 'remains' +that have afforded so much interest to antiquaries. + +Gerald de Barri appears to have been a man of studious temperament. He +became, as Lambarde quaintly puts it, 'wel learned and, as tyme served, +eloquent.' He was, moreover, a great writer, and being much given to +disputation, called together the literary _élite_ of Oxford and read his +own works to them. He next proceeded to feast his learned critics into a +satisfactory state of good humour with things in general, and his own +literary effusions in particular; an event which he himself describes as +'a magnificent affair, a return of the Golden Age, an unparalleled +event, in England at all events.' + +In person Gerald is portrayed as remarkably tall, his face being +strongly marked by large, shaggy eyebrows; and it has been well said +that, in spite of certain undeniable defects of character, he was +probably inspired with a genuine love for the land of his birth, and a +desire to upraise therein an independent Kymric Church owning +allegiance to the Bishop of St. Davids as its spiritual head. + +[Illustration: DE BARRI TOMB, MANORBERE.] + +Gerald de Barri was gathered to his fathers, at a ripe old age, in the +year 1220. He is reputed to have been buried in St. Davids Cathedral; +where _at least one_ tomb is pointed out as the last resting-place of +this great ecclesiastic. + +Little is recorded of the subsequent history of Manorbere Castle. The +place appears to have been abandoned at an early period; its hanging +woods and vineyards were abandoned to decay, whilst its dismantled walls +and subterranean vaults harboured bands of lawless freebooters, who +haunted these coasts a century ago. Wild work went forward at Manorbere +in those half-forgotten days. It is related how a certain famous +smuggler, notorious for his desperate enterprises, eluded the vigilance +of the revenue men by running his vessel ashore near the headland +ycleped the Priest's Nose; and conveying his illicit cargo, under cover +of night, to the cellars with which the neighbourhood abounded. + +Rousing ourselves at length from these cogitations on the sandhills, we +put the best foot foremost and hie away past a spring of pure water +known as the Druid's Well, to the sunny slopes of that selfsame Priest's +Nose. Scrambling warily amidst brakes of prickly furze, we presently +espy a mighty cromlech standing in a nook of the hill, beside the narrow +path. A soft westerly breeze draws in 'gently, very gently from the +sea,' as we perch beside this relic of the immemorial past; wafting the +scent of wild thyme and gorse over warm, crisp turf that shimmers +beneath the lusty summer sunshine. Hence unfolds yet another charming +view of the gray old castle, set amidst a breadth of feathery woodland +that clusters under the lee of the sheltering hill. A turn of the head +reveals the varied line of coast stretching away, league upon league, +past the groves of Stackpole to the bluff, perpendicular landfall of St. +Govan's Head. + +Returning to quarters by another route we fetch a wide compass round; +pursuing the path that hugs the shore, which, hereabouts, is indented by +several fissures of very peculiar character. A short distance beyond +the cromlech we encounter the first of these; a chasm so narrow that a +boy might leap across it, yet of imposing depth, with sides as smooth +and perpendicular as any house wall, and floored with the seething +ocean. + +[Illustration: The Church Path Manorbere] + +A quarter of a mile farther on we strike a little way inland, to +investigate a still more remarkable _lusus naturæ_ of a similar kind. +Here the insidious onslaught of the waves has tunnelled beneath the +intervening cliff, and penetrated far into the land; excavating a dark, +narrow, and profound fissure in the perpendicular strata of the Old Red +sandstone; so that, gazing seaward through the cleft, we can see the +foaming surf sparkling in the sunlight upon the rocks beyond. Thence we +extend our ramble to Castle Head, a rocky point jutting boldly out to +sea, and scarped with the broad, fern-clad furrows of a prehistoric +earthwork. This appears to have been the stronghold of some invader from +over seas; for the protecting banks curve inland, and, sweeping down to +the rocks on either hand, enclose the outer extremity of the headland. +Secured thus against attack upon their landward flank, the occupants +were protected in rear by the broad expanse of the 'inviolate ocean,' +whose restless billows, surging far below, mingle their music in wild +harmony with the harsh cries of countless sea-fowl. + +[Illustration: MANORBERE CHURCH.] + +Breasting the rough ascent, we now march across the upland meadows of +Parson's Piece; making in a 'bee-line' for Manorbere Church, whose slim +gray tower peers over an intervening bank. Perched high aloft upon a +bleak hillside, across whose treeless heights 'breathes the shrill +spirit of the western wind,' this venerable fabric rises in lonely +isolation, and confronts in peaceful rivalry the towers and battlements +of the grim old fortalice that crowns the opposite hill. + +For quaint picturesqueness, and the singular grouping of its various +parts, this curious old church stands unrivalled, even in this land of +remarkable churches, combining as it does almost every feature +characteristic of such buildings throughout the locality. Originally in +all probability a cruciform structure, the church has apparently been +added to at various times in a capricious fashion; so that the exterior +now presents the quaintest imaginable variety of walls, windows and +gables; all jumbled together in seemingly haphazard fashion, and falling +into fantastic groups, as may be seen from the adjoining sketch. + +It will be noticed that one of the gables is surmounted by the original +bell-cot, which probably existed prior to the erection of the tower; the +latter rises above a medley of roofs upon the northern side of the +chancel, and contains a bell inscribed with the legend: EXALTEMUS NOMEN +DOMINI, 1639. + +Passing around to the south porch, we enter a low nave arched over with +a slightly-pointed, stone-vaulted ceiling. Strange, low, +rudely-fashioned arches, entirely disdaining the support of pillars, +rise sheer from the level of the floor upon either hand, giving access +to the narrow aisles behind. These arches are, unfortunately, so +enveloped in the general coating of whitewash, that it is impossible now +to discover whether they were originally built as arches, proper, or are +merely openings cut through the walls when the aisles were added to the +nave. A little window of early type opens above one of these arches; the +sole survivor of some old windows that existed previous to the building +of the aisles. + +Short, tunnel-like transepts open out on either hand, the one towards +the north having a low ceiling, crossed by the curious arched ribs +seen in our sketch above. The gangway that formerly gave access to the +rood-loft now leads, in a queer, tortuous course, from the north aisle +across the adjacent transept to the tower, which is entered by a door +high aloft in the wall. + +To the right a 'squint' passage opens skew-wise into the chancel, where, +beneath a plain arched recess, lies the recumbent stone effigy of a +Crusader clad in chain mail, having his legs crossed at the knees and +sword and shield, charged with the arms of De Barri, beside him. This +monument commemorates one of the ancient lords of Manorbere, who 'came +over with the Conqueror,' and shared with Fitz-Hamon and his knights in +the partition of these lands. + +The handsome traceried screen that stretches athwart the narrow chancel +arch was erected about five-and-twenty years ago, when a vigorous effort +was made to arrest the deplorable condition of ruin and decay, to which +time and neglect had reduced this interesting church. + +A few ivy-mantled fragments of an ancient structure that formerly served +as the parish school, are supposed to be the remains of a chantry +founded by the De Barri who lies buried in the church. + +We now stroll leisurely homeward through the gloaming, while the slender +young moon peers over the shoulder of a neighbouring hill. As we +approach the castle, its shadowy front looms darkly silhouetted upon a +daffodil and emerald sky; while the zenith is still suffused with +translucent rosy light, and the pale stars peep one by one as the +daylight slowly wanes. Now the little flittermice awake once more to +life, and flicker to and fro with wavering flight; while a colony of +chattering jackdaws discusses the day's events upon the ruined +battlements. Yonder, like a thief of the night, a great white owl steals +silently by, soft as a drift of thistledown, yet keen as fate to 'spot' +the errant mouse, roaming in search of a meal too far from home. + +Thus we recross the drawbridge to the hospitable abode, whose latticed +windows emit a heartsome ray of light that seems a lode-star to the +wayfarers. Pretty tired after our long day's ramble, we clamber up the +corkscrew stair to a certain turret chamber, where, in next to no time, +we lose ourselves in the drowsy arms of Morpheus. + +The busy man, hard pressed by the _Sturm und Drang_ of city life, may +find at Manorbere recreation in the truest sense; and should he be +blessed with a congenial hobby, he may entertain himself in this +secluded spot to his heart's content. + +To the lover of Nature the place offers many attractions. In the course +of rambles around the varied coast-line, or amidst the hills and dales +of the inland country, the wanderer with a turn that way may study the +mellow lichen-clad rocks of the Old Red sandstone; and will not fail to +notice their well-defined junction at Skrinkle Haven with the limestone +formation, which reappears across the Sound in the cave-worn crags of +Caldey. Or, again, he may note how the salmon-red ploughlands of the +Ridgeway attest the presence of the older rocks, as they rise from the +superincumbent stratum of the mountain limestone. + +These conditions afford, within a limited compass, a great diversity of +soil and situation; providing a congenial habitat to many varieties of +ferns and wild-flowers. The botanist will look for prizes amongst the +rich pastures of the Vale of St. Florence, the woodland paths around St. +Issells, and the lush marshlands of Penally; while the sandy burrows of +Tenby, Lydstep and Castle Martin, and even the crumbling ruins of some +castle or ancient priory, will yield their tale of treasure for the +vasculum. + +Indeed, wander whither he may, the lover of Nature will find a wealth of +beauty on every hand. Let him clamber amidst the tumbled boulders, where +the samphire thrives on the salt sea spray; and explore the rock-pools +left by the receding tide, whose weed-fringed depths are tenanted by +plump sea-urchins, nestling sociably among zoophytes, sponges, and +delicate 'lady's-fingers.' Or he may choose to wander along the sands of +Saundersfoot and Tenby, where haply he may light upon rare shells of +many a dainty hue; while queer little crabs scuttle hither and thither +amidst the stranded starfish, and other derelict flotsam and jetsam left +behind by the receding tide. + +And as the changing seasons cast their ever-varying charm upon land and +sea, the artist in search of 'fresh woods and pastures new' will find, +in this unfrequented country, endless subjects ready to his hand worthy +the brush of a Brett, or an Alfred Parsons. Perchance he will set up his +easel where the ruddy sandstone cliffs, soaring in weather-stained crags +above broad sweeps of untrodden sand, are crowned with a diadem of +golden gorse; while a breadth of sunlit sea stretching away to the +horizon will serve as an excellent background. Or haply he may plant his +white umbrella in some secluded nook, where a picturesque old cottage, +with mighty, bulging chimney and moss-grown roofs, nestles beneath a +group of wind-swept ash trees; the softly folding landscape lines +showing faintly beyond. + +Many a beauty-spot such as this gladdens the wayfarer as he roams +through the byways of this pleasant land; and the landscape-painter may +easily 'go farther and fare worse,' than by spending a season in +Pembrokeshire. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +PEMBROKE TOWN AND CASTLE. STACKPOLE AND THE SOUTHERN COAST. + + +In course of time the _Wanderlust_ returns in full force upon us; so +bidding farewell to our hospitable entertainers, we transfer ourselves +bag and baggage to the county-town; in order to explore from that +convenient starting-point the remoter recess of South Pembrokeshire. + +The district locally known as the Stackpole Country forms part of the +hundred of Castle Martin, and is the southernmost land of the county. +Lying apart from any town or railway, it is somewhat difficult of +access; but though boasting few striking features to attract the +ordinary tourist, it yet offers no small attractions to the wanderer who +can appreciate 'the pleasures of the quiet eye.' + +Threading our way at first amidst rather intricate lanes, we pass once +more through Hodgeston village, whence our route is all plain sailing. +Near Lamphey Church we fall into the main road, which runs in a bee-line +beside softly-swelling hills, until the long street of Pembroke is +entered at its eastern end. + +The 'lie' of this town has been not inaptly likened to the shape of a +herring-bone; the castle precincts occupying the head (whereof the great +donjon answers to the eye), while the long main street, with its +branching lanes and gardens, suggests the vertebral bone of the fish +with its radial spines. _Apropos_ of the situation of the town, we refer +to our trusty Leland and read that 'Pembroch standith upon an arme of +Milforde, the which, about a mile beyond the Towne, creketh in so that +it almost peninsulateth the Towne, that standith on a veri main Rokki +ground. The Towne is well waullid and hath iii gates by Est, West and +North; of which the Est gate is fairest and strongest, having afore it a +compasid Tour not rofid in; the entering whereof is a Port colys, _ex +solide ferro_.' + +[Illustration: PEMBROKE.] + +Neither gate nor 'compasid Tour' now spans the prosaic-looking street; +and the houses in this eastern suburb have small pretensions to beauty. +We catch a hasty glimpse, however, of the 'two paroche chirches' +discovered by our author; and entertain ourselves _en route_ by trying +to pronounce the curious, unfamiliar surnames such as Hopla, Treweeks, +Malefant and Tyzard, emblazoned above the shop-fronts: while an +occasional Godolphin, Pomeroy or Harcourt, attests the strain of +sang-azure that lingers yet among the _bourgeoisie_ of the ancient +borough. + +[Illustration: PEMBROKE CASTLE.] + +Midway adown the High Street rises a mighty elm, whose spreading +branches quite overshadow the adjacent dwellings. Presently we catch a +glimpse of Pembroke Castle, beyond a pretty vista of old-fashioned +structures whose quaint, irregular outlines stand sharply cut against +the clear sky. + +The records of this great historic fortress would alone suffice to fill +a bulky volume; the best account of the earls, earldom and castle of +Pembroke being, perhaps, that by G. T. Clark, Esq.; and there is a +detailed description of the building by the present proprietor, J. R. +Cobb, Esq. We will not attempt, therefore, to give more than a slight +outline of its past history. + +Pembroke Castle was originally built by Arnulph de Montgomery, in the +reign of William Rufus; and it was greatly enlarged and strengthened by +Earl Strongbow, the invader of Ireland, who held it in the time of Henry +I. + +A romantic story is related of his predecessor, the King's castellan, +Gerald de Windsor, who espoused the beautiful but notorious Nesta. A +certain Welsh chieftain, named Owen ap Cadwgan, beheld the famous beauty +presiding one day with her ladies at a tournament (like the moon amidst +her satellites); when, sighing like Alcestis for the Queen of night, the +enamoured warrior determined to possess himself of his seductive +charmer. Obtaining access to the castle at dead of night, Owen wrested +his victim from the arms of her outraged lord, and carried her off to +his stronghold among the mountains. Though a large reward was offered by +the King to anyone who should capture or slay the outlawed man, it was +eight long years before justice was vindicated, when Gerald, meeting his +adversary, put an end to his career by an avenging arrow. + +But to return to history. William, Earl Mareschal of Pembroke, was +honoured with a visit from that sorry monarch, King John. During the +Edwardian period, the castle was enlarged and strengthened by the +addition of the outer ward. In 1457 Henry Tudor, Earl of Richmond +(afterwards King Henry VII.), was born at Pembroke Castle. + +During the Civil Wars the garrison made a gallant defence against a +large force under Oliver Cromwell. One tragic episode that closed the +eventful days of the siege may be mentioned here. Upon the fall of the +castle the three leaders, Poyer, Mayor of the town, Powell, Governor of +the castle, and Laugharne, the whilom Parliamentary Colonel, were +expressly exempted from the pardon extended to the garrison. These three +men were condemned to death: but Parliament in its clemency resolving to +punish only one of them, they were directed by Cromwell's orders to draw +lots as to who should suffer the penalty. Two papers were inscribed +'Life given by God'; the third was a blank. A child drew the lots, when +the blank fell to the ill-fated Poyer; who was afterwards shot in the +Piazza, Covent Garden, 'dying very penitently,' as we are told. After +the fortress was delivered into Cromwell's hands, it was so effectually +dismantled that, to this day, the results of his destructive work are +only too manifest. + +The ruins of Pembroke Castle still present, after the lapse of centuries +of neglect and decay, a truly magnificent appearance. The massive towers +and ivy-curtained walls crown a bold and rocky eminence, that rises +abruptly from the tidal waters of Milford Haven; sweeping around the +landward face of the promontory, and enclosing a broad and spacious +castle garth. + +In the centre rises the great donjon tower, which stands as an enduring +memorial of William de la Grace, the great Earl Mareschal, who in all +probability designed the main fabric of the castle as we see it to-day. +An imposing _coup d'oeil_ of the ruins may be obtained by turning down +Dark Lane, crossing the old bridge that spans the stream hard beneath +the castle, and entering a timber-yard close by. Prominent in the view +is a lofty tower, mantled in glossy-green ivy and pierced with graceful +pointed windows, that soars from the river brink, enclosing, deep below +its foundations, that 'mervelous vault called the Hogan,' whence the +garrison in olden times drew their supplies of water. + +Beside the tower extends a long stretch of ivy-clad wall, rooted in the +living rock and broken at intervals by shapely turrets; over which peep +the upper works of the central keep. The spars and cordage of some +stranded coasting vessels, and a group of men calking their +weather-beaten timbers, lend an added charm to an exceedingly +picturesque scene. + +We are indebted to Leland for the ensuing description of the castle as +it appeared in the days of bluff King Hal: 'The Castel stondeth hard by +the waul on a hard Rokke, and is veri large and stronge, being doble +wardid. In the atter ward I saw the chaumbre wher King Henri the vii was +borne; in knowledge whereof a chymmeney is now made, with the armes and +Badges of King Henri vii. In the botom of the great stronge Towr, in the +inner warde, is a mervelous vault called the Hogan.' Another chronicler +of very different stamp, the late Professor Freeman, thus records his +impressions of this interesting pile: 'Pembroke Castle remarkably +combines elevation and massiveness, so that its effect is one of vast +general bulk. It is another conspicuous instance of the majesty often +accruing to dismantled buildings, which they could never have possessed +when in a perfect state.' + +Traversing the outer barbican that protected the deep-set entrance, we +pause to marvel at the elaborate defences of double portcullis and +thick, nail-studded doors, commanded by loopholed guard-chambers, set +within the gloomy arches of the gate-tower. The latter presents a +stately front, flanked by attached round towers, overlooking the inner +court; and contains a number of fine apartments for the accommodation of +distinguished guests. + +We next turn our attention to the adjacent barbican tower, whose massive +walls are seamed from top to base by huge, gaping rents, through which +the daylight peers; yet so great is their tenacity they still remain +intact, and support the original stone roof. Each story is pierced with +loopholes, ingeniously constructed to prevent missiles entering from +below. The spacious courtyard enclosed by the outer walls is carpeted +with velvety turf, whereon 'the quality' are wont to foregather from far +and near to wield the tennis-racket, and contest for 'deuce' and 'love' +upon the selfsame spot where, in the brave days of old, the Harcourts +and De Valances, and all the flower of Norman chivalry, flung down the +gauntlet or broke a lance upon the field of honour, while fair +spectators waved encouragement from every arch and balcony. + +Beside the great central keep a labyrinth of crumbling walls, towers and +arches, mainly of Edwardian date, cluster together in 'most admired +confusion.' Here are pointed out the remains of the chapel of St. +Nicholas, given by Montgomery to the Norman abbey of Sayes. A chamber is +usually pointed out, in the building called the Exchequer, as that in +which Henry VII. first saw the light; but Mr. Cobb suggests a room in +the tower overlooking Westgate Hill. Unfortunately, the arms and badges +noticed by Leland no longer exist to mark the scene of that interesting +event. + +Clambering down a flight of broken steps in an obscure corner of the +North Hall, we enter the vast cavern known as the Wogan; a very curious +and characteristic feature of Pembroke Castle. As we ramble over the +damp and slippery floor, by such light as can struggle in through the +huge sally-port and a narrow, pointed window, we find ourselves in a +spacious, natural vault sunk deep in the living rock; its rugged walls +and roof festooned with hartstongue fern, and stained by oozing +moisture--a weird, fantastic spot, such as the shade of the primæval +cave-dweller might frequent, should he elect to revisit the glimpses of +the moon. + +Sheer from the 'main Rokke' upon which the castle is founded, rises the +vast, circular keep or donjon tower, which formed the central stronghold +of the fortress. This is undoubtedly one of the most ancient parts of +the castle, having been erected by William Strongbow the elder, 'Rector +Regis et Regni,' as he proudly styled himself; who was Earl Mareschal of +Pembroke during the reigns of Richard Coeur-de-Lion and John. + +This imposing structure impresses every beholder by the vast proportions +and stern simplicity of its mighty bulk. The massive walls rise to a +height of more than 75 feet, and are of amazing thickness and solidity; +a spiral staircase, set deep within the wall, gave access to the several +floors and to the rampart around the summit, which commands a wide sweep +of the circumjacent landscape, with a glimpse of the winding Haven. The +floors have long since fallen away, though the holes for the beams that +supported them may still be seen, and two huge fireplaces with yawning +archways of enormous size. Lancet-windows and loops for the archers open +out here and there; one of the former, high up the wall (which appears +in our sketch), retaining some touches of ornamentation. + +'The Toppe of this round Towr,' as Leland quaintly puts it, 'is gatherid +with a Rose of Stone;' and, despite seven centuries of rough weather and +hard usage, the huge fabric appears intrinsically little the worse for +wear, and capable still of making a stand ''gainst the tooth of time and +razure of oblivion,' for many a long year to come. + +A stroll around the outer walls, and a peep at the Monkton Tower, +completes our perambulation of Pembroke Castle. With its neighbours of +Manorbere, Tenby and Carew, Pembroke formed a quadrilateral, planted to +guard this exposed district against attack from without: moreover, as +Professor Freeman has pointed out, this time-honoured fortress has a +special interest for the antiquarian student, as affording an unusually +complete example of a mediæval castle protecting a civic settlement. + +In the course of a ramble around the town, we turn into old St. Mary's +Church, a handsome edifice containing some curiously sculptured tombs +and a brand-new reredos. A low, massive tower rises at one end of the +church; and hard by it stands the quaint cupola of the old market-house, +which, adorned with a clock, and little figures of boys by way of +pinnacles, makes a pretty show in the view along the High Street. Many +of the older houses have an unpretentious charm about them, with their +antiquated bow-windows and wide oak staircases with twisted balusters. +Not a few of the better sort have old-fashioned gardens to the rear, +abloom in summer days with homely flowers, and redolent of honeysuckle, +lavender and jasmine. + +[Illustration: THE OLD WEST GATE. PEMBROKE.] + +Of the three town gates described by Leland, a scanty remnant of the +West Gate is all that now survives. Proceeding down the main street, +with the castle walls upon our right hand, we pass a group of cottages +jumbled all together upon a rising bank beside the highway, whence they +are approached by flights of crazy steps. A glance at our sketch of +these picturesque old structures (which have already been partially +'restored' since this view was taken) will show the broken arch of the +demolished West Gate, and the castle walls frowning across the roadway, +which has been widened out since the gate was removed. + +At the bottom of the hill we skirt the salt waters of a creek, or +'pill,' to use the local term, that 'gulfith in' beneath the shaggy bank +upon which the castle stands. Traversing the bridge, we mount upwards +again, and turn aside into a hollow way where a cluster of thatched +cottages, half hidden beneath embowering woodbine, stands high above the +roadway; whence time-worn steps clamber to their lowly porches. + +But, _vis-à-vis_ across the lane, rises a building whose unfamiliar +aspect at once arrests our attention. This is Monkton Old Hall, whose +massive front of dark-hued stone is pierced with narrow windows, set +beneath a low browed archway. Upon passing to the rear we stumble upon a +real old-world nook, where a crazy old 'Flemish' chimney rears above a +curious medley of weather-stained roofs and gables. + +With the courteous assent of the proprietor, we now take a glance round +the interior. Passing through a low, pointed doorway, we thread our way +amidst tortuous passages, and enter a lofty apartment. + +A large stone arch in the wall at one end encloses two quaint little +slits of windows (or peepholes, rather), with a similar opening lower +down, overlooking the approach from the outer entrance. A tortuous +stairway gives access to the upper regions, which contain various small +chambers, one of them having a fine old stone chimney-piece. + +But the most notable feature of the place is a large, oblong chamber cut +out of the rock, with vaulted roof of Norman date supported by massive +ribs, which occupies the lower part of the house. It has a separate +entrance from the road, and a big fireplace opening to the circular +chimney-shaft above mentioned. + +[Illustration: THE PRIORY DWELLING MONKTON.] + +Monkton Priory, of which this old hall appears to have been the +hospitium, or Prior's dwelling, was founded in 1098: and was subordinate +to St. Martin's Abbey at Séez, in Normandy. + +Resuming our ramble, we turn through a wicket at the top of the road, +and follow a narrow path that leads to the great south porch of Monkton +Priory Church. The venerable edifice has a picturesque appearance; with +the ruined walls and traceried windows of an ancient chapel beside the +chancel, and the Norman porch breaking the line of the nave roof. Upon +passing around to the north side, we are struck by the archaic +simplicity of the long, Norman nave, strengthened with vast rugged +buttresses and lighted by narrow, round-arched windows, set few and far +between. The chapel above mentioned projects upon this side; and the +ground is broken by traces of buildings that formed part of the +precincts of the ancient priory. + +The lonely dwelling to the westward was until lately used as the rectory +house; an unpretending edifice, whose weather-stained coating of +rough-cast partially conceals rows of old corbels, and other +half-obliterated features. Looking hence across Monkton Pill we have a +fine view of the castle, with its picturesque array of broken towers and +bastions, and a quaint old stone pigeon-cot down in the valley which +formed an appendage to that lordly _ménage_. While enjoying this goodly +scene, a summer shower sweeps up from the sea, and robs us for a time of +the enchanting prospect: but ere long the old fortress reappears beneath +a brilliant arc of rainbow, glowing in borrowed splendours under the +warm rays of the declining sun. + + * * * * * + + 'Night's candles are burnt out, and jocund Day + Stands tiptoe on the misty mountain-tops,' + +as we fare cheerily forth, on the morrow's morn, to explore the remoter +recesses of that secluded district ycleped the Stackpole Country. + +Our footsteps echo loudly as we trudge through Pembroke's deserted +street, where as yet a few half-awakened housemaids, and labouring men +going to their day's work, are the only signs of life. + +Nearing the railway-station we turn aside into a narrow, tortuous lane; +cross the stream that fed the old town moat and, passing a water-mill +beside a disused limestone quarry, we strike up the steady ascent of +Windmill Hill; catching _en route_ a glimpse of the time-worn steeple of +St. Daniel's Church, now used merely as a cemetery chapel. + +Upon winning the crest of the ridge the country opens out ahead, +showing a cluster of tall church towers clear against the skyline; and +then we drop sharply down one of those short, steep 'pinches' that make +such heavy work for the horses hereabouts. + +Groups of country-folk jaunt by to market in carts of primitive build, +propelled by strong, well-cared-for looking donkeys; and thus, _a poco a +poco_ as they say in Italy, we work our passage through quiet, +unfrequented byways startling a shy rabbit here and there, or flushing a +buxom partridge and her brood from beneath our very feet. + +Now and again we pause to catch the throstle's mellow song, or to watch +the easy movements of a pair of sparrow-hawks, as they wheel in slow, +graceful gyrations through the air. + +By-and-by we come to Cheriton; a tiny hamlet with a comely church, whose +tall, ivy-clad tower rises from a wooded dell. In the churchyard stands +an ancient cross smothered in creepers, and the stepping-block for those +who rode to church in bygone days. + +[Illustration: SIR ELIDUR DE STACKPOLE.] + +In the north wall of the chancel, beneath a handsome, canopied recess of +somewhat unusual character, lies the effigy of its reputed founder, Sir +Elidur de Stackpole. + +The figure has a grave and dignified appearance; it is clad in a suit of +chain-and-plate mail, and has sword, shield and large spurs. The worthy +knight is represented with crossed legs, as having fought in the wars of +the Crusades; at the time, no doubt, when Baldwyn and Gerald of +Manorbere were inciting the people to that famous enterprise. + +The base of this monument is divided into six panels, in each of which +is a figure beneath a cusped and crocketed arch. These quaint little +effigies show a curious variety of costume and expression, and are worth +close examination. Upon the opposite, or southern, side of the chancel +is the figure of a lady, apparently of Edwardian date. The head is +covered with a square hood, and is supported by two kneeling angels. +This effigy is very well executed, and in an unusually good state of +preservation. + +In the adjacent chantry we notice the early seventeenth-century monument +of 'Roger Lorte, late Lorde of the Mannor of Stackpoole.' This singular +erection is enriched with the painted figures of Sir Roger, his lady, +and their twelve children, and bears a pious inscription in the peculiar +style of the period. Under the window of this chantry lies a disused +altar stone bearing the following inscription, which we respectfully +submit for antiquaries to exercise their wits upon: CAMU ORIS FILI +FANNUC. + +Hard beneath the church we plunge into a woodland path, and follow the +meanderings of a prattling brook which hurries along, beneath the cool +shade of overarching trees, to the lake-like river that skirts the broad +demesne of Stackpole Court. + +The variety and luxuriance of the forest trees that flourish in this +sheltered locality, are all the more striking in a country where +well-developed timber is, as a rule, conspicuous by its absence; for the +rigorous gales that sweep across the more exposed uplands, give to the +struggling vegetation that leeward slant which is a characteristic of +many a Pembrokeshire landscape. + +Pleasant it is, turning from the glare of the dusty roadway, to saunter +beneath these leafy aisles of smooth-stemmed beech and knotty oak, +mountain-ash, ilex and Scotch fir; and to push our way through +intertwining thickets of bramble, wild-rose and ivy, enmeshed by the +clinging woodbine and traveller's joy; while all the time the mercury, +in less-favoured spots, is climbing steadily towards the eighties. + +Crossing a rustic bridge that spans the lake, we pause to watch the +slim, brown trout darting in every direction beneath the water-lilies +that adorn its placid surface; when, suddenly, a brace of dusky +waterfowl, alarmed by our intrusion, dart off with an impetuous splash +and trail away in rapid flight to the shelter of the ozier-beds. + +[Illustration: STACKPOLE.] + +Ere long the broad, gray front of Stackpole Court comes into view beyond +a stretch of velvety greensward; the massive porch being flanked by two +small Spanish field-guns of antiquated pattern, bearing the titles 'La +Destruidora' and 'La Tremenda.' The existing mansion was built by an +ancestor of the present Lord Cawdor, upon the site of the baronial +residence of that same Sir Elidur de Stackpole, whose tomb we have so +lately seen at Cheriton. + +The older house had experienced a chequered career. After weathering +many troubles in mediæval times, it was garrisoned by the King's troops +during the Civil Wars: when its stout old walls offered such effective +resistance to the Parliamentary cannon, that they did but little +execution. + +Stackpole is now the residence of the noble 'Thane of Cawdor,' whose +ancestor acquired the estate by marriage with Miss Lort, the sole +heiress to all these broad acres. + +The mansion contains some interesting works of art and relics of +antiquity, including a portrait by Romney of the famous Lady Hamilton; a +fine painting of Admiral Sir George Campbell, G.C.B., who captured the +French invaders at Fishguard in 1797: and a curious old map of the +county, adorned with shields and armorial devices. + +[Illustration: THE HIRLAS HORN.] + +That famous drinking-cup the 'Hirlas horn' was formerly to be seen at +Stackpole, but has since been removed to Golden Grove, in +Carmarthenshire. This curious treasure is mounted in silver, and is +supported upon an oval plinth by two silver quadrupeds, as shown in our +sketch. The latter are probably the only remaining portions of the +original horn, presented by Henry of Richmond to his faithful +entertainer, Dafydd ap Ievan, while resting at the castle of Llwyn +Dafydd, in Cardiganshire, on his way to Bosworth Field. + +Upon faring forth again, we are struck with admiration of the splendid +groups of evergreen trees that adorn the vicinity of the mansion, and +the trim, well-tended grounds that contrast so pleasantly with the wild +luxuriance of the surrounding woodlands. + +At the neighbouring farm we pick up a track diverging to the left, that +leads us over a bridge spanning the lake-like estuary, affording a +pretty peep of the mansion upon its bank. Thence our path winds across +the breezy slopes of Stackpole Park, until we drop suddenly upon a tiny +quay and cluster of cottages, stowed away beside the sea in the oddest +corner imaginable, under the sheltering lee of the cliffs. Ensconced in +this out-of-the-way nook, we snatch a well-earned _siesta_; and upon +resuming our stroll we follow the coast-line, passing near a cavern that +goes by the name of Lort's Cave, and catching a glimpse of the secluded +cove of Barrafundle, backed by a stretch of blue sea and the bold crags +of Stackpole Head. + +Retracing our steps to the farm we pass near a spot where, according to +a fading tradition, a certain ghostly party of headless travellers were +wont to arrive, about nightfall, in a spectral coach from Tenby; each +pale shade, as 'tis said, bearing his head stowed snugly away under his +arm! + +Another half-hour sees us into Bosheston, the remotest village of this +Ultima Thule. The place has a nautical air all its own; with a row of +trim coastguards' cottages, whose strip of sandy garden ground is +embellished with the figure-head of some 'tall Ammiral' of bygone days. +Atop of the hamlet stands the church, a primitive-looking old edifice, +with a rude stone cross and broken stoup standing amidst the tombstones. +The route is now all plain sailing, for we have merely to 'follow our +noses' along the sandy trackway; while the salt wind deals us many a +lusty buffet as we trudge seawards across the open, shelterless uplands. + +Upon reaching the cliff-head, we discover a flight of rough steps, +whereof, as the fable goes, no man can tell the number. Descending the +winding way we find ourselves, a few minutes later, before St. Govan's +Chapel. + +[Illustration: ST. GOVAN'S CHAPEL.] + +This diminutive structure stands in a narrow chine between wild, +tumbled crags. It is rudely constructed of weather-stained blocks of +limestone, arched over with a primitive kind of vault, and is lighted by +two or three narrow windows. A low doorway in the eastern wall gives +access to a cell-like recess, just big enough for a man to turn round +in. Here, according to a curious old legend, St. Govan sought shelter +from his pagan enemies; whereupon the massy rock closed over him and hid +him from his pursuers, opening again to release the pious anchorite so +soon as the chase was overpassed. + +Anent this queer nook, the popular superstition runs that all who can +keep to the selfsame wish, while they turn around therein, will obtain +their desire before the year is out--a belief that, to judge from the +well-worn appearance of the rock face, must be widely entertained. + +Upon the western gable rises a small bell-cot, long since bereft of its +solitary bell. For it happened, 'once upon a time,' that a wicked pirate +who chanced to be sailing by became enamoured of its silvery tones, and, +landing with his rascally crew, plundered the sanctuary of its treasure. +His success, however, was short-lived, for a mighty storm arose and +overwhelmed the vessel, so that every soul aboard perished in the raging +waves. Meanwhile the bereaved hermit was compensated for his loss with a +miraculous stone, which, when struck, gave forth the identical tone of +the cherished bell; and credulous folk to this day affirm that the +neighbouring rocks ring, upon being struck, with surprising alacrity. + +From the chapel we next scramble down to the 'holy well,' a neglected +spot of no interest save such as tradition can lend. Yet in olden times +folk were wont to gather here from far and wide, in anticipation of an +instant cure for 'those thousand natural shocks that flesh is heir to.' + +Quaint legends and superstitions such as these linger, to this day, +amongst the older peasantry of this remote portion of South +Pembrokeshire. Indeed, the whole locality offers a happy hunting-ground +to anyone curious in the matter of old-time folk-lore. + +For behold, is not this Gwlâd yr Hûd, the Christian Kymro's Land of +Phantasy; which, long ere the time that history had dawned, was +enveloped in Llengêl, the Veil of Mystery? Each castle-crowned headland +of this rock-bound coast, and every grass-grown rath and barrow that +furrows the surface of these immemorial hills, has formed the theme of +some half-forgotten legend or lingering tradition, long cherished among +this imaginative people. + +A lonesome, sea-girt land where storms and sea-mists, sweeping from the +wide Atlantic, wreath the steadfast hills in unsubstantial vapours, +through which each beetling precipice that frowns across the ocean looms +like some weird vision of a dream. Amidst such scenes as these, the +fantastic creations of the Keltic imagination must readily have found 'a +local habitation and a name.' + +Well, _revenons à nos moutons_, after this excursion into legend-land. +Seated on a mossy stone, we contemplate the age-worn cliffs whose ruddy +bastions, carved into a thousand castellated forms, range their +impregnable fronts against old Ocean's impetuous artillery. A steady +south-westerly breeze sends the green, translucent rollers vollying with +thunderous roar against the weed-fringed rocks upon the shore; while +flocks of gulls wheel overhead, drifting on motionless, angular pinions, +or sweeping across the breakers with harsh, discordant cries. + +We now seek out a view-point for a sketch of the lonely hermitage, a +matter of no small difficulty owing to the tumbled nature of the ground; +but eventually we select a sheltered spot where the noontide sun, +peering downward from the cloudless vault of heaven, draws out the rich, +sweet odours of sea-pink, wild-thyme and gorse. + +Mounting again to the brow of the cliffs, we ramble around the lonely +coast, which hereabouts is indented with a series of 'crankling nookes' +that penetrate, like long fingers, deep into the land. + +Here is the wild and perilous abyss yclept the Huntsman's Leap, from the +story of some fabulous rider who, putting his horse to full gallop, +plunged across the unexpected chasm, only to perish from sheer fright +upon regaining his home! The nodding cliffs approach so closely upon +either hand, as to have been not inaptly likened to a pair of leviathan +vessels locked fast in collision. + +A bowshot westward lies Bosheston Meer, a similar cavern sunk fathoms +deep in the solid rock. Near it is a funnel-shaped aperture that acts in +stormy weather as a blowhole; whence it is said the waves are driven +high above the land, plunging back again with a roar that can be heard +far inland. + +Strange tales were told in bygone times of the freaks of this +tempest-torn abyss. George Owen, an Elizabethan chronicler, observes: +'If Sheepe or other like Cattell be grazing neere the Pitt, offtimes +they are forcibly and violently Drawne and carryed into the pitt; and if +a Cloke, or other garment, bee cast on the grownd neere the Pitt, at +certaine seasones, you shall stande afarre off, and see it sodainely +snatch'd, drawne and swallowed up into the Pitt, and never seene +againe.' + +Quitting this wild and fascinating spot, we pass near the grass-grown +mounds of a prehistoric camp; and then, striking a little inland, make +for a sort of green oasis that marks the 'Sunken Wood.' + +A vast, shelving pit, sunk some 50 feet below the level of the ground, +and twice as many across, is filled with a grove of vigorous ash-trees. +Their dense foliage entirely covers the top of the chasm; where it is +cut off, smooth as a well-trimmed hedge, by the sea-spray borne upon the +gales from the adjacent ocean. + +Many conjectures have been formed as to the origin of this remarkable +freak of Nature; the most plausible being that, the subsoil having been +excavated by the waves through some subterranean fissure, the ground has +fallen in from above and formed this cavity. + +We now hark back to the cliffs once more, and coast around the broad +inlet of Bullslaughter Bay, whose rocky walls are pierced with many a +dark, weed-fringed cavern where + + 'Old Triton blows his wreathed horn.' + +Pacing the springy turf of the open down, we feast our eyes upon the +sparkling waters of the Channel, whose sunlit waves roll in upon the +rocky headlands, 'where the broad ocean leans against the land.' The +flat, featureless character of the landward view enhances by contrast +the attractions of the iron-bound coast; upon whose wild, fantastic +crags and beetling precipices, the traveller gazes in undivided +admiration. + +Anon we diverge seawards again, and, traversing the grassy mounds of a +prehistoric camp, we look down into the depths of a profound abyss known +as the Cauldron. The weather-stained precipices of this magnificent +chasm rise sheer from the ocean, inaccessible save to the gulls and +cormorants that haunt their rocky ledges. Huge archways and vaulted +passages, yawning in the limestone rock, afford glimpses of the +foam-flecked waves beleaguering, in unceasing onslaught, these sea-girt +bulwarks of the steadfast land. + +Onward we plod, until erelong the incessant clang and clamour of the +myriad sea-fowl that, time out of mind, have made their home amidst +these wild and inaccessible sea-cliffs, tell of our approach to the +far-famed Stack Rocks. + +Standing upon a rocky vantage-point, we have the two lofty, isolated +rocks, or 'stacks,' full in view; rising from the surging ocean that +rolls in foaming eddies around their feet. Countless sea-birds wheel +with harsh, discordant cries around their weathered sides; where every +available ledge and cranny of the rocks is peopled with a multitude +of feathered bipeds, huddled together close as herrings in a barrel. +Here, cheek-by-jowl in sociable good-fellowship, cluster clumsy +guillemots (or'eligugs,' as they call them locally), razorbills, +and ridiculous-looking puffins in clerical black and white; while +kittiwakes, sea-pies and dark-green cormorants dart about athwart the +waves, or, perched upon some projecting ledge, pursue their morning +toilette with the utmost _insouciance_. + +The eggs of these birds are of rather peculiar form. Very large at one +end and pointed at the other, their sides are curiously flattened; this +nice provision of Nature rendering them less liable to roll off the +narrow ledges of the rocks which are their resting-place. + +Inexorable time forbids our rambling farther around the trend of the +sea-cliffs; so we reluctantly quit their breezy summits to hie away +inland past the lonely chapel of Flimston; keeping straight ahead +through sandy lanes glorified with hedges of golden gorse, and 'the +swete bramble floure' of good old Chaucer. Presently we come in sight of +the tall steeple of Warren Church on the rise of the hill before us. + +A long mile westward from our present road lies Bullibur, where traces +of an ancient chapel have been brought to light at a spot to this day +known as the 'Church Ways.' Anent the erection of this little edifice, +the story runs that, as fast as ever the builders could raise their +stones from day to day, the Prince of Darkness came along and demolished +their handiwork during the night. + +Be that as it may, we now press on to Warren; whose fine old church has +a massive tower and spire, of such lofty height as to form a notable +landmark to pilots far away at sea. The tunnel-vaulted nave and porch, +with a well-preserved cross in the churchyard, complete the tale of +Warren's _notabilia_. + +With a final glance around the wide-extended landscape, encircled by a +blue stretch of the distant Channel, we shape our course over some +rising ground at a place called Cold Comfort--a tantalizing misnomer +this torrid afternoon. Our road then winds down the hill to a fresh, +clear stream, running through water-meadows where cattle stand knee-deep +in the cooling shallows; and so, crossing Stem Bridge, we enter the +confines of the ancient Honour of Pembroke. + +Breasting the upward slope, we pass through numerous gates athwart the +little-frequented highway, which hereabouts calls for no particular +notice, being chiefly remarkable for the amazing and dazzling whiteness +of its coating of limestone dust, which, under the glare of the +afternoon sun, recalls the parched routes of distant Italy. This brings +into play our dark, smoked glasses and the weather-beaten sketching +umbrella, to the huge delectation of the small fry skylarking around the +wayside cottage gates. + +[Illustration: ORIELTON.] + +By-and-by the many-windowed front of Orielton appears amidst the rolling +woodlands that cluster around a pretty lakelet lying in the hollow of +the vale. There is an old saying that Orielton possesses as many windows +as the year has days, and as many doors as days in the month; but +finding the fable tally ill with the apparent size of the mansion, we +propound the conundrum to an old road-mender who explains that a large +part of the building was 'throwed down' years ago, when he was 'a bit of +a boy.' + +At Hundleton two roads diverge near the village green, and, as 'all +roads lead to Rome,' either will do for Pembroke; so we steer as +straight a course as we can, the lane winding down beneath overarching +trees to a secluded nook where a stream meanders, under deep, ruddy +sandstone banks, to lose itself in a salt-water 'pill' that joins the +Pennar River. + +Traversing the long, tedious street of Monkton, our lengthening shadows +point the way as we push on once more into Pembroke town; conjuring up, +after the long day's tramp, rare visions of the good cheer awaiting us +at the modest quarters where we come to anchor for the night. + +[Illustration: AT RHÔSCROWTHER.] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +TO ANGLE, RHÔSCROWTHER, AND THE CASTLE MARTIN COUNTRY. + + +To-day we extend our rambles, by a westerly course, through the remote +and little-visited peninsula that encompasses the 'lardg and spatious +Harborough' of Milford Haven, upon its southern flank. + +There is an Eastern saying that 'men grow blind in gazing at the sun, +and never see the beauty of the stars.' Throughout the locality in +question we shall not be dazzled by grand or striking scenery; yet we +may happen unawares upon many a nook of pleasant verdure amidst its +rolling sandstone hills; and quiet corners, full of an indescribable +charm, in the world-forgetting villages (undiscovered by the +guide-books) that nestle in its remote, sequestered vales. + +Getting away 'bright and early' from Pembroke streets, while the smoke +of newly-kindled fires still hangs softly around the old house-tops of +the town, the keen, crisp air of the half-awakened day sends us spinning +along at a pace that makes short work of the tedious highway. + +At a bend of the road we digress into a hollow seductive lane that +meanders, in nonchalant fashion, around the head of a tidal inlet; +thence our by-way beguiles us, by moss-grown stepping-stones, across a +tinkling rill that wantons in rippling eddies amidst big red sandstone +boulders, where ivy and hartstongue fern have made their home. Onwards +we pursue this secluded lane, under the cool shade of an overhanging +coppice; here the deep, ruddy soil is shot with purple hues, from the +blue sky mirrored in each shallow puddle left by last night's rain. + +In every shadowy nook wreaths of fairy gossamer glisten, like frosted +silver, amidst the emerald green of the hedgerow. The merry pipe of +linnet and piefinch sounds cheerily forth as we pass along; while that +quaint little fellow, the nuthatch, utters his unmistakeable note +(resembling the ring of skates on the ice), as he flits from tree to +tree. Working his way head-downwards, in his own peculiar fashion, he +searches trunk and branches for his favourite fare; striking with his +long, sturdy beak, and steadying himself by the purchase of his +outspread tail. + +Now and again we catch a glimpse of a smart goldfinch, and presently +discover his pretty nest, with eggs lying warm and cosy; while sober +little wrens flit briskly in and out under the bushes. Even the +nightingale, though a _rara avis_ in these parts, has, this phenomenal +season, been heard in the woods near Cresselly. The following tradition +explains how these little songsters came to shun the county of Pembroke. +It appears that St. David, 'being seriously occupyed in the night tyme +in his diverse orizons, was soe troubled with the swete tuninges of the +Nightingall as that he praied unto th' Almightie that, from that tyme +forward, there might never a Nightingall sing within his Dioces; and +this was the cause of confininge of the bird out of this countrey. Thus +much,' remarks the chronicler, 'to recreat the reader's spirettes.' + +Presently as we rise the hill a broad, land-locked bay opens out to the +briny Haven at Pennar Mouth. In the words of that quaint chronicler, +George Owen: 'This is the creke that cometh upp to Pembroke towne. It is +the largest and greatest creke of al Milforde, and passeth upp into the +land a three Myle and more; and at the upper End it parteth itself in +two Branches, and compasseth about the Towne and castle of Pembroke; +serving the said Towne for a moate, or strong Ditch, on every side +thereof. A Bark of 40 or 50 Tonnes may enter this Creke att low water, +and ride at Ankher att Crowpoole, but noe further without helpe of ye +Tyde. The Crow is a shallow, or shelf, a pretty way within the entrance +of Pennar; on itt groweth the best Oysters of Milforde. It is a big and +sweete Oyster,' saith he, 'and poore folk gather them without dredging.' + +Far away upon the glassy waters of the Haven, a handful of vessels lie +at anchor off Hobb's Point, where the old coach-road runs down to the +ferry. All this is soon lost to view as we descend to a tree-shaded +dingle, aglow with foxgloves, campion and yellow _fleur-de-lys_. Anon +our path winds upwards across an open hillside, amidst acres of glowing +gorse; passing a few lonely thatched cottages, with donkeys browsing +leisurely about their open doors. + +At a place called Wallaston Cross five lanes converge, necessitating a +consultation with the trusty Ordnance map. The choice falls upon an +upland road, running along the brow of a hill, that raises us just high +enough to peep across the Haven to Milford town, and the towers of +distant Pembroke; over which we catch a glimpse of the Precelly hills, +lying far away upon the northern horizon. + +Down in a sequestered dell, overlooking the estuary, nestles the little +church of Pwllcroghan; its low tower and dumpy spire scarce out-topping +a grove of tempest-torn trees. + +Long ago this lowly edifice was restored by Ralph de Beneger, a former +Rector, whose counterfeit presentment reposes in his church beneath a +canopy bearing the inscription: 'Hic jacet Radulphus Beneger, hujus +ecclesiæ Rector.' In 1648 a skirmish took place in Pwllcroghan +churchyard, between the Royalist and Parliamentary troops; when it is +recorded that 'the malignants, as was their custom, displayed on their +hats the legend, "We long to see our King."' + +Trudging steadily onwards, we pass near Hênllan House, formerly a +possession of the Whites of Tenby; a place which still keeps its old +Welsh name amidst all its Saxon neighbours. That rascally vagrant the +cuckoo now pipes up from a neighbouring coppice, and 'tells his name to +all the hills' in monotonous iteration; while lovely Silver-washed +Fritillaries and sky-blue butterflies flit to and fro beside the +hedgerow. + +At a crook of the lane we turn through a gate, and follow the +'fore-draught' down to Eastington farmhouse, where the good-natured +farmer and his better-half provide bed and board for the coming night; a +vast convenience in this unfrequented district, which offers no +accommodation of a higher type than the ordinary hedge alehouse. + +After despatching a modest repast, in which the staff of life forms the +backbone of our fare, we resume our devious ramble. An unmistakeable +footpath leads past the ruins of a deserted water-mill to the shore of +Angle Bay, whose calm blue waters, spreading broadly into the land, +mirror a cloudless sky of unrivalled purity. Skirting an ancient +moss-grown wall which, for some inscrutable reason, encloses a tract of +apparently valueless marshland, we roam across the shingly beach towards +a group of isolated buildings. Pale yellow sea-poppies, taking heart of +grace to brave the lusty breezes, beautify the waste places with their +delicate flowers; and groups of cattle, standing knee-deep in the +shallows, add a touch of life to the pleasant, tranquil scene. + +Our route now lies around the rocky shore, an opportune field-path +skirting the low cliffs, and affording lovely ever-changing views over +the sunny landscape and the land-locked Haven. The warm south wind, +sweet from clover fields, is fraught with the roar of the ocean, driving +full into Freshwater Bay a mile away beyond the sandy burrows; but here +under the lee of the hill, scarce a breath of air stirs the ripening +barley. Suddenly a brace of partridges blusters away from the sun-baked +ploughfield, where the ruddy eye of the 'pimpernel' peeps from every +furrow. + +Ensconced beneath a gnarled old hawthorn hedge wreathed in fragrant +woodbine, we indulge in a quiet pipe; watching the rabbits as they +scuttle to and fro under the sandy bank, and the dainty blue dragonflies +hovering over the meadowsweet and ragged Robin, that deck the oozy +course of the streamlet at our feet. The deep tones of a steamer's syren +float across the water, followed by the report of a heavy gun from a +fortress guarding the Haven; for the summer manoeuvres are now in full +swing, and we can see the white-peaked tents of the Connaught Rangers +behind Angle Point. + +The gracefully curving shore is fringed with a broad stretch of +seaweed, of every hue from golden brown to bottle green, whence the +pungent odour of ozone is borne upon the sun-warmed air. + +Glancing back across the bay, we catch a glimpse of the old farmhouse +that is to be our local habitation for to-night; near which the tower of +Rhôscrowther Church rises amidst its solitary grove of trees. + +A long mile further we enter the village of Angle (or Nangle, as it is +sometimes called), a place that in ancient deeds is styled 'in Angulo,' +doubtless from its situation in a _corner_ of the land. + +The long village street with its one-storied cottages, many of them +coloured yellow, pink or blue, and all embowered in luxuriant climbing +plants, has a pleasant, cheery look; and as we advance a ruined tower +comes into view, rising above some marshy meadows beside the stream. +This is all that remains of the castle of Angle, once the abode of the +Sherbornes, an ancient family in the land, who were formerly lords of +Angle. At no great distance from the church are some remains of a +handsome structure of uncertain antiquity. Nothing is known about the +history of these ruins; but they have supplied a peg whereon to hang a +local legend, somewhat to the following effect: 'Once upon a time,' +three sisters and co-heiresses, finding they could not pull together +under the same roof, agreed to build each of them a dwelling for +herself. The first is said to have erected the castle; the second, the +curious old house above mentioned; and the third, a mansion just without +the village, where a house named Hall now stands. + +Turning through a wicket-gate, we pass by an old stone cross and enter +the church, over which, alas! has swept the moloch of modern +restoration, obliterating much of its original character. In one corner, +however, we espy a queer little organ of primitive type, with unenclosed +pipes and keyboard, not unlike the spinet of earlier days. This has been +recently evicted in favour of a brand-new instrument designed by the +present vicar, who is skilled in the art and mystery of organ-building. + +Angle Church was one of the numerous benefices held by that famous Welsh +chronicler, Giraldus Cambrensis. + +[Illustration: SEAMENS CHAPEL AT ANGLE.] + +In a corner of the churchyard, overlooking the tidal inlet, rises a +picturesque little chapel frequented in olden times by the seafaring +folk, when embarking upon or returning from their ventures on the vasty +deep. Externally all is obscured beneath a mantle of glossy green ivy, +save where a traceried window or low-arched doorway peeps from under the +shadowy foliage. Ascending a few steps to the interior, we find +ourselves in a small, oblong chamber covered with a pointed stone vault; +at the east end stands a plain, stone altar, surmounted by an elegant +little traceried window, whose modern painted glass portrays Scriptural +scenes appropriate to the purpose of the chapel. + +A small piscina, and the recumbent figure of some unknown ecclesiastic +under an arched recess, adorn this nutshell of a church. Beneath it is a +crypt of similar dimensions, entered through a doorway at the eastern +end, and lighted by small quatrefoil openings pierced through the +thickness of the walls. + +[Illustration: Ruined Castle at Angle] + +We now turn our attention to the castle ruins, which are reached by +passing the school-house and crossing a small grass-plot, adorned with +a simple monument to some local benefactor. Little else remains besides +a tall, ivy-clad peel-tower, whose massive limestone walls abut upon the +shallow stream that meanders to the bay. These solid walls are +honeycombed with archways and passages; while a good, stone-newel +stairway corkscrews up to the outermost battlements, above which rises a +circular chimney-shaft. Each of the four stories had its own fireplace, +window recesses and other conveniences; and the lower chamber is stoutly +vaulted with stone. Altogether, the place appears to have been built in +such a self-contained fashion as to be capable of resisting attack, or +even sustaining a siege. + +Close at hand stands a low, rambling, yellow-washed house, having every +sign of age about it. Many years ago this was the Castle Inn. The +interior shows dark, open-raftered ceilings, where mighty hams and +flitches of bacon ripen the year round; broad-beamed oaken chairs flank +a solid table standing upon the rough, flagged floor; while dogs, cats, +hens and chickens roam sociably everywhere. A carved stone head, peeping +out from amidst the honeysuckle that clambers over the porch, is _said_ +to represent Giraldus Cambrensis himself, a statement that must be +accepted with the proverbial 'grain of salt.' + +The rough outbuildings at the rear also bear traces of antiquity; and in +an adjacent meadow stands one of those curious old pigeon-houses, which +formed a customary adjunct to the mediæval castle or manor-house. The +thick stone walls of this pigeon-house are built in a circular form, +surmounted by a high conical roof much the worse (except from a +picturesque point of view) for several centuries of neglect and hard +weather; the interior is pierced with many tiers of pigeon-holes, each +with a ledge for the bird to rest upon, while an 'eye' in the crown of +the roof served its feathered inmates as a doorway. The original arched +entrance has been broken away to form a larger opening, and the whole +structure appears to be coëval with the neighbouring castle. This +pigeon-house appears in our sketch of Angle Castle. + +Invigorated by a crisp sea-breeze that drives the fleecy clouds before +it, we put our best foot foremost, and stretch away along a rough +cart-lane between banks of prickly furze and stunted hawthorn hedges. +These give place, after passing a solitary farmstead, to the open, +wind-swept down, aglow with amber-tinted gorse, and carpeted with dry, +crisp turf and tussocks of flowering thrift. + +Half a mile across this bracing moorland lands us at the old ruined +Blockhouse, built, as George Owen informs us, in the days of Henry VIII. +'for to ympeach the entrance into the Haven.' Hence we look out across +the open seaway, that forms a worthy approach to the noble estuary of +Milford Haven. + +From this sea-girt eyrie we command a spacious outlook over land and +sea. Standing beside the gray, lichen-clad ruins of the old +watch-tower, our gaze wanders across a sparkling expanse of open sea +that rolls, in waves of clearest aquamarine and sapphire blue, towards +the land-locked shelter of the Haven; and breaks into crests of snowy +foam where St. Anne's Head stands out and takes the brunt of old Ocean's +fury. The ruddy, sandstone rocks rise in picturesque confusion from the +surging breakers, which eddy around a tiny islet accessible only at low +tide; whose forefront, planted in the ocean, is barbed with a grim array +of jagged ledges and pierced with dark, yawning crevices. + +Beyond West Angle Bay the mainland rounds away eastwards, with a +fort-crowned islet protecting the inner reaches of the famous estuary. + +It is to be hoped that the unrivalled advantages of Milford Haven will +ere long be turned to better account. With its noble fairway, +untrammelled by shoal or bar, and deep, land-locked reaches where the +whole British Navy might safely ride at anchor, Milford Haven has no +compeer along our western seaboard. Given a better system of railway +communication, and proper facilities in the way of docks and wharves, +Milford should, in days to come, stand _facile princeps_ as a seaport +for the magnificent vessels engaged in the great and ever-increasing +traffic of the Atlantic 'ferry.' + +But, meanwhile, time is stealing a march upon us, and the lengthening +shadows warn us to depart; so, casting a last glance across the sunlit +sea, flecked with white 'mares'-tails' and dotted with brown-sailed +trawlers, we retrace our track over the breezy headland. At every step +we inhale the healthful smell of wave-washed seaweed, and tread +underfoot the flowers that gem the rough, uneven ground--thrift, +trefoil, blue sheep's bit and a minute, starlike flower whose name we do +not know. + +Pushing on through the quiet street of Angle, we diverge up a steep, +shady lane in search of Bangeston House; which proves to be nothing more +than the gaunt, dismantled walls of a vast group of buildings, +apparently of early eighteenth-century date, mantled in ivy and +overshadowed by sombre trees. The ruins cover a large extent of ground, +and appear to have been regarded by the neighbours as a convenient +quarry for building materials. Bangeston was, as its name implies, the +ancestral home of the Benegers, a family of much consequence in olden +times who possessed broad acres hereabouts, but whose very name has long +since become extinct. + +Curious tales of the former occupants of Bangeston still linger amongst +the cottagers. A certain Lord Lyon, the Garter King-at-Arms of his time, +is said to have dwelt here many years ago; and an ancient graybeard whom +we meet volunteers the information that, 'It was a gret plaäce in they +times, and I've a-heared tell as there was quare doings when Lord Lyon +lived in th' ould marnsion. It was him as drove with a coach and horses, +one dirty night, and went right over the clift (they do say), down by +Freshwater way, and was never seed again.' + +Much edified by the yarns of Old Mortality, we now retrace our steps to +Eastington Farm; musing meanwhile over these fast-fading fables, and +meeting a few belated peasant-folk trudging home through the gray of the +gloaming. + +[Illustration: JESTYNTON.] + +Eastington, or more properly Jestynton, is traditionally reputed to have +been, in days long before the Conquest, the abode of Jestyn, grandson of +Howel Ddâ, Prince of South Wales. A descendant of his, whose +unpronounceable name we refrain from recording, was married to Sir +Stephen Perrot, the first Norman of that name to settle in this county; +who by this alliance acquired vast possessions and influence throughout +all the countryside. + +This quaint old homestead of Eastington, under whose hospitable roof we +spend the night, is honeycombed with curious nooks and corners, that +lure us on to endless scrambles amidst dark, crooked passages, and +crumbling stairways. The long south front, with its homely porch and +small-paned windows, is flanked at its western end by a massive mediæval +structure whose rough, lichen-clad walls are pierced with narrow, +deep-set windows, and topped by ruinous battlements; all looking so +hoary and ancient, one is disposed to fancy this may be a remnant of the +royal residence of that old Welsh Prince whose name it bears. + +By a rude, steep flight of grass-grown steps we mount to a clumsy door, +that swings noisily on its crazy hinges as we push our way into the +interior. We now find ourselves in a large and lofty chamber, whose +solid, concrete floor is prettily marked out with lines traced in simple +geometrical patterns. Rudely-arched windows admit light at either end, +one of them having cusped openings; while a ruined fireplace yawns in +the centre of the opposite wall. + +A small vaulted cell opens from one end of this room; and a narrow +stair, winding through the thickness of the wall, ascends to the +battlemented roof, which has a gangway all around and is pierced with +loopholes for defence. The dark, vaulted basement of this ancient fabric +forms a capital cool dairy, where mine hostess shows us with pardonable +pride her clean, earthenware pans brimful of the freshest of fresh milk +and cream. + +Anon ensues a quiet chat over the evening pipe; the mellowing flitches +forming a canopy overhead as we lounge in the cavernous chimney-corner. +At last we retire to our lowly chamber, to be serenaded far into the +night by the boom of heavy guns, waging mimic warfare by land and sea; +while the glare of electric search-lights turns night into noontide, in +a highly distracting fashion. + +Next morning the heavens are already as brass above our heads when, +turning our backs on Jestynton, we strike into the meadow-path that +leads down to Rhôscrowther village. Ensconced in a secluded dell remote +from the busy haunts of men, this quiet hamlet has a look of rest and +fair contentment; yet the place must have been of no little importance +in bygone times, for there is reason to believe that the Bishop of St. +Davids had one of his seven palaces in this parish. + +Down in a hollow beside the stream stands the ancient parish church, +dedicated to St. Decumanus, patron of springs and wells, who in olden +times was held in high esteem for the cures effected at the bubbling +rill hard by. + +This venerable church remains pretty much in its original condition, and +presents a picturesque array of roofs and gables, clustering beneath its +tall gray tower. The gable of the nave is crowned by a pretty bell-cot, +which probably did duty prior to the erection of the tower. The latter +is a stout old structure with 'battered' or sloping walls, having both +an inner and an outer roof of stone, and looking as though built with a +view to defence. + +The north porch is unusually spacious. Its broad gable end is adorned +with the arms of the Daws of Bangeston, and the badge of the Whites of +Hentland, a notable family in bygone days, whose chapel is in the north +transept. Alongside the arched doorway of the porch is a square-headed +opening, supposed to have been used as an alms window, through which, in +those easy-going times, the priest handed out the dole of bread, money +or what not to his _protégés_. + +Our attention is next attracted by a diminutive figure surmounting the +arch of the inner entrance. Upon closer inspection this archaic image +appears to be seated, with the right hand raised in the attitude of +benediction. It was rescued, we understand, many years ago from the +iconoclastic restorers who were then working their will on Angle Church; +and was placed in its present position by the Rector of this parish. + +Upon entering into the sacred edifice, its picturesque proportions +excite our admiration. Notwithstanding its modest dimensions the short +transepts, curious angle passages and chancel with its pretty aisle, +give a quaint, varied look to the low interior. + +[Illustration: AT RHÔSCROWTHER.] + +The north wall of the chancel is adorned with a handsome, crocketed +canopy, which terminates in a triplet of queer, sculptured faces +symbolical of the Holy Trinity. This monument partly hides an ancient +niche or aumbry, where the wafer was probably kept in pre-Reformation +times. The adjacent south aisle has two canopied recesses; under one of +which reposes the handsome, though somewhat damaged, effigy of a lady, +with a wimple over her chin such as is worn to this day in the northern +part of the county. The wall above is pierced with a small piscina arch; +and the chamber is lighted by windows of very good Pembrokeshire type. + +This aisle is known as the Jestynton Chapel, from the mansion of that +ilk to which it still appertains; and there is a tradition that Jestyn, +Prince of South Wales, built the church; placing it conveniently near to +his own residence, though remote from the rest of the parish. + +Many other interesting features will reward a diligent search; and the +visitor who is curious in such matters will notice that the chancel arch +has evidently been cut through from the earlier nave. The south doorway, +abandoned in favour of the more sheltered north porch, affords a +convenient niche for the font: while odd corners here and there conceal +old tombstones, inscribed with quaint epitaphs or half-obliterated +armorial scutcheons. + +In passing through the churchyard, we examine a dilapidated cross, +remarkable for a circular hole in the base supposed to have been used as +a receptacle for contributions to the priest from his flock. Near the +adjacent stile stands an ancient, upright stone inscribed with curious, +illegible characters. + +At the little foot-bridge spanning the stream, we halt to enjoy a +pleasant retrospect of the time-honoured church, set amidst embowering +trees, with a handful of lowly cottages scattered prettily around. + +Thence we push on by a footpath across the upland meadows; climbing +stone stiles, set in the turfy walls which do duty here as hedgerows. +Gradually we ascend to the wind-swept plateau at Newton; and if the +ascent is easily won, it is none the less worth winning; for it affords +an ample outlook over land and sea, with the village of Castle Martin +upon the rise of the opposite hill. + +Our track now becomes somewhat obscure, so we call in to inquire the way +at the neighbouring blacksmith's shop; when a soot-begrimed son of +Vulcan, casting aside his hammer, good-naturedly pioneers us along an +intricate by-way, and points out the bearings for crossing the marshy +valley. A wild enough place is this in winter-time, as our guide can +testify; where the very hayricks have to be lashed secure to weather the +fierce sou'-westers, which, under their steady impact, bend the trees +into strange, distorted forms. + +Descending the rough braeside, we now make for a conspicuous old +ash-tree, and thenceforward thread our way amidst the dykes and marshy +levels of Castle Martin Corse. + +The tall steeple of Warren church, showing clear against the sky ahead, +makes a serviceable landmark, until we strike the grassy track that +leads across the marsh. Arrayed in sombre hues of russet red, rich +browns and olive greens, the level strath is dotted with groups of +horses and the black cattle for which the locality is famed, grazing +knee-deep amidst waving sedges and lush green water-plants. + +As we advance, the lapwings (those lovers of lonely, unfrequented +places), wheel and circle overhead, uttering their peculiarly plaintive +pipe as they scan the unwelcome intruders. And now a hollow lane +receives us, and keeps us company until, after passing a two-three +humble tenements, we turn aside into the well-tended graveyard; and so +to the parish church of St. Michael, which stands in a little elbow of +the hill overlooking the scattered dwellings of the hamlet. + +[Illustration: CASTLE MARTIN CHURCH.] + +Castle Martin church has made so doughty a stand against the ravages of +time that now, in its green old age, it presents an extremely +picturesque appearance as we approach its weather-beaten portal. Before +passing within, let us pause awhile to scan the features of this +characteristic old Pembrokeshire church. + +Prominent in our view rises the gray limestone tower, whose rugged, +time-worn walls rise solidly to the corbelled battlements. These have +louvred windows to the bell-chamber, and a quaint metal weather-vane +atop; to right and left range the lichen-clad roofs and walls of the +main structure; while a lofty and massive porch stands boldly out, +enclosing a rambling stairway that leads to the tower. The foreground +is occupied by crumbling headstones, wreathed in ivy and decked with +flowering creepers; and a shapely churchyard cross rises beside our +pathway. + +Nor does the interior of the church prove a whit less interesting. Here +a group of graceful arches, with attached limestone shafts, gives access +from the nave to the north aisle; whence a skew arch, having detached +pillars with capitals, opens into the chancel. The latter is flanked by +similar arches enclosing pretty, traceried windows. + +The great south porch has a narrow doorway at some height in the side +wall, giving access to a much-worn, straggling flight of steps. +Scrambling up these we find ourselves in the tower, which, after the +manner of the country, is massively constructed; having grim vaulted +chambers with many openings, like pigeon-holes, pierced in the solid +walls. Here are also the bells, erected by John Rudhale, A.D. 1809. The +font, though plain, is well proportioned and of early date. + +This curious old church is the head of the important parish and hundred +of Castle Martin. The district is noted for its breed of black, +long-horned cattle; and in bygone days could boast its own troop of +gallant yeomanry, who shared with the Fishguard Fencibles the +distinction of repelling the notorious French 'invasion' of +Pembrokeshire, a century ago. + +Leaving the quiet village to the care of an aged crone and a group of +children playing with a lame magpie, we get under way again, and make +for the crossways on the ridge. At this point the Ordnance map raises +expectations of something of a 'castle,' which proves, however, to be +nothing more than a prehistoric earthwork with mounds of circular form. +Then onward again, passing Moor Farm, where once stood a goodly mansion, +of which scarce a stone has been spared. Now we keep a straight course +towards Warren, with the skylarks making music overhead; while the voice +of that 'interesting scamp,' the cuckoo, echoes from the woods down +Brownslade way. + +[Illustration: A WAYSIDE WELL.] + +Shortly before reaching Warren village the country lane widens out, with +a corner of sedgy greensward under the hedgerow. Here stands a curious +old wayside well, domed over with a sort of rude canopy, whose mossy +stones, fringed with hartstongue fern, are reflected in the clear water; +indeed, from the frequent recurrence of springs and draw-wells, it would +seem that St. Decumanus, their patron, was held in high esteem in these +parts. + +At Warren we call a halt to refresh the 'inner man;' then lounge awhile +in a shady nook, for a chat and a quiet pipe. Towards the cool of +evening we bear away for distant Pembroke, by the road that leads past +Orielton, where we are on familiar ground which has been touched upon in +describing a previous route. + +[Illustration: CASTLE MARTIN.] + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +CAREW, WITH ITS CROSS, CASTLE AND CHURCH. UPTON CASTLE AND CHAPEL. +PEMBROKE DOCK AND HAVERFORDWEST. + + +Setting forth by the morning train, we alight at Lamphey Station; whence +we make our way to the grand old ruins of Carew Castle, as our _pièce de +résistance_ for to-day. Once free of Lamphey village, we soon find +ourselves striding across the Ridgeway by Lamphey Park; whence we get a +pretty retrospect, under some weather-beaten trees, of the pleasant vale +we have quitted, with a more distant peep of the towers of Pembroke +Castle. Here, too, we find a few traces of olden times in a group of +gray, weather-stained farm-buildings; remnants, maybe, of Bishop +Vaughan's famous grange. + +At Rambler's Folly, on the crest of the ridge, we get the first glimpse +of our destination, down in the valley below; with a background of open +country rolling upward to the distant hills; while, by taking the +trouble to cross over the road, we command the broad plain of the sea. + +A shepherd with collie-dog at heel, driving his flock to pasture, now +puts us in the way of a short-cut across the meadows. This woodland path +is enlivened by a bevy of butterflies that, like ourselves, are taking +the morning air. Here floats a stately 'peacock,' while yonder sprightly +Atalanta, perched upon a spray of woodbine, displays her becoming +_toilette_ of scarlet and glossy black, edged with daintiest lace. + +Approaching our destination, we skirt around a marshy watercourse +abloom with yellow flags, orchids and gay pink campion. Ere long a +flight of stepping-stones lands us in the village, right abreast of +Carew church, a noble old structure with handsome traceried windows, and +a tower such as one rarely sees in this locality. A picturesque old +building with pointed windows, that was formerly the village school, +adds a pretty feature to the churchyard. + +But we must push on to the castle, reserving these minor matters for +future investigation. Half a mile of hard highroad ensues, when, just +before the castle gate is reached, our attention is absorbed by an +object standing upon the steep bank, hard by the road. + +[Illustration] + +This is Carew Cross, a hoary monument before whose patriarchal antiquity +the ruined castle is little better than a mere _parvenu_. The huge +monolith of lichen-clad stone terminates in a circular head enclosing a +Celtic cross; while each of the four sides is richly overlaid with +deeply-incised patterns, carved in that curious, interlacing fashion +peculiar to these early monuments. The date of its erection is placed as +far back as the ninth century: upon its eastern face is seen a +rudely-fashioned cross, each limb of which is formed by three deeply-cut +lines; while the reverse side is inscribed with certain archaic +characters, which some ingenious antiquary has interpreted thus: + +THE CROSS OF THE SON OF ILTEUT THE SON OF ECETT. + +Having completed the sketch of Carew Cross, which figures on the +opposite page, we now pass on to view the wonders of the castle. + +Carew Castle is located in a district which from very early times formed +a royal appanage of the princes of South Wales. It was presented as a +marriage dower with the fair Nesta, daughter of Rhys ap Tydwr, to Gerald +de Windsor, the King's castellan, in the reign of Henry I. This great +demesne was subsequently mortgaged by Sir Edward de Carew to the gallant +Sir Rhys ap Thomas, by whom the castle appears to have been largely +remodelled. Here it was that this doughty Welshman entertained his liege +the Earl of Richmond, on his way from Milford to victorious Bosworth +field; placing the royal arms, in memory of the event, upon a +chimney-piece in the chamber where 'the hope of England' slept. + +In olden times Carew Castle was surrounded by an extensive chase, or +deer park. Here in 1507 Sir Rhys ap Thomas held 'a solemn just and +turnament for the honour of St. George, patrone of that noble Order of +the Garter,' when Henry VII. honoured the revels with his presence. A +full account of this 'princelie fête' has been preserved, setting forth +how 'manie valerouse gentlemen' then made trial of their abilities' in +feates of armes, the men of prime Ranke being lodged within the Castle, +others of good Qualitie in tents and Pavilions, pitched in the Parke.' + +This 'Festivall and time of jollytie' commenced on the day dedicated to +'the trustie Patrone and protector of Marshalistes,' and continued for +five whole days; the tournament taking place on the fourth day, when Sir +William Herbert was the challenger, the lord of Carew playing the +judge's part. + +To the credit of all concerned it is recorded that, throughout all these +'justes and turnaments, seasoned with a diversitie of musicke for the +honoure of Ladyes,' in spite of 'knockes valerouslie received and +manfullie bestowed, among a thousand people there was not one Quarrell, +crosse worde or unkinde Looke, that happened betweene them.' + +Wonderful stories were told of the feats of arms performed by the +doughty Sir Rhys ap Thomas; insomuch that for years after his day the +name of Sir Rhys ap Thomas was 'used about Terwin as a bugg-beare or +fire Abbaas, such as Talbott's was in Henrie the Sixt's time, to +affright the children from doing shrewd Trickes.' It is related how Sir +Rhys, mounted on his veteran charger Grey Fetlocks, contrived to run the +impostor Perkin Warbeck to earth at the monastery of Beaulieu, in +Hampshire; and was rewarded for this gallant service by receiving the +Order of the Garter from his sovereign. At the Battle of the Spurs this +stout-hearted warrior led the light horse and archers against the enemy, +and took the Duke of Longueville prisoner with his own hands. + +Shortly after this event, having attained the age of threescore years, +this brave old knight at last hung up his well-worn weapons in his +Castle of Carew. Sir Rhys spent his declining days in extending and +beautifying the stately fabric; calling in to his aid, we may be sure, +the advice of his friend and neighbour the talented Bishop Vaughan, then +dwelling at Lamphey Palace. Finally, after considerably over-passing the +allotted span, Sir Rhys ap Thomas was gathered to his fathers in the +year of grace 1527. + +Meanwhile, traversing a broad green meadow, we approach the ivy-wreathed +walls and turrets of the castle. This magnificent edifice is built +around a large central courtyard. It has a huge bastion at each corner +and displays, even in its dismantled condition, a most interesting +combination of military and domestic architecture. + +Before us rises the gate-house, probably the oldest portion of the +present building. An adjacent tower contains the chapel, dating from +Edwardian times and retaining its groined ceiling; and in one of the +upper chambers we notice a fireplace bearing what appear to be the arms +of Spain. The fragment of a graceful oriel is seen high aloft in the +wall as we pass under the barbican tower, a massive structure with +vaulted archways, portcullis and machicolated battlements. + +We now emerge upon the inner courtyard of the castle, whose broad +expanse of velvety turf is overshadowed on every side by gray old +limestone walls, pierced with pointed doorways and many-mullioned +windows. + +The most prominent feature here is the ivy-clad portal of the +banqueting-hall. This picturesque structure rises through two stories, +and is adorned with some crumbling scutcheons, charged with the insignia +of Henry of Richmond and of Sir Rhys ap Thomas; combined with the hoary, +time-worn architecture of the banqueting-hall, the whole forms a +charming subject for the artist's pencil. + +[Illustration: A CORNER OF CAREW CASTLE] + +The banqueting-hall itself must have been a magnificent apartment. It +still shows traces of rich Gothic ornamentation in the deep recesses of +its arched windows, doorways and huge fireplaces; while the springing of +the open-timbered roof can be readily discerned. In another direction is +seen the incomparable range of lofty, mullioned windows of the broad +north front. This grandiose _façade_ was begun, but never completed, by +Sir John Perrot: it contains a sumptuous state-room, over 100 feet in +length, and numerous smaller apartments. + +[Illustration: CAREW CASTLE.] + +An hour vanishes in next to no time as we ramble amidst these echoing +chambers, and clamber up and down the broken stairways. Here we pry into +some deep, dark dungeon; yonder, peer through a narrow lancet; and anon +mount to the crumbling battlements, to the no small dismay of a host of +jackdaws that haunt these ruined walls. Meanwhile imagination re-peoples +these deserted halls and desolate chambers with those throngs of faire +ladyes, and gallant knights and squires, those troops of servitors and +men-at-arms, and all the countless on-hangers that went to swell the +princely _ménage_ of its mediæval masters. + +Presently we pass out again, to wander around the brave old fortress and +mark the gaping breaches wrought by Cromwell's cannon, what time the +beleaguered garrison fought for King Charles I., holding out long and +valiantly until, Tenby having succumbed, Carew at length fell a prize +to the Parliamentary arms. The accompanying sketch shows that most of +the south front has been demolished, thus giving us a glimpse of the +internal courtyard and a portion of the lofty northern _façade_. + +Upon quitting the castle we stroll across the neighbouring bridge, +whence we obtain a noble view of the great north front with its lofty +oriels and vast, mullioned windows reflected in the shallow waters of +the tideway. Our appearance upon the scene disturbs a meditative heron, +who, pulling himself together, spreads his broad wings and stretches +away in leisurely flight to more secluded quarters. + +Pausing as we pass for another glance at the ancient Cross, we now +retrace our steps to the village to complete our investigations there. + +Arrived at the church, we prowl around that sacred edifice; noting its +lofty Perpendicular tower, fine traceried windows and stair-turret +surmounted by a low spirelet; then we pass within, and proceed to look +about us. + +The interior of Carew Church is unusually lofty and spacious, comprising +nave with aisles, chancel and transepts. Lofty, well-proportioned +limestone arches open into the latter, their piers embellished with the +four-leaved flower that marks the artistic influence of Bishop Gower. + +[Illustration: CAREW CHURCH THE BOY BISHOP.] + +The chancel contains a pretty sedilia and piscina, arched in the wall; +while an adjacent niche is tenanted by a curious little figure carved in +stone, and supposed to commemorate a certain boy-bishop, elected, +according to a quaint old custom, from amongst his fellow-choristers. + +Be that as it may, we now turn to the opposite wall where, beneath +plain, pointed recesses repose the figures of an ecclesiastic habited as +a monk, and a knight in armour, sword in hand and shield upon arm, legs +crossed at the knees, and head and feet supported by carven animals. The +latter is a finely-executed piece of sculpture, and withal remarkable +from the disproportionate size of the head, which is twisted in a +strange manner over the right shoulder--perhaps a personal trait +committed to marble. + +Whom these figures represent is not precisely known, but we may +reasonably hazard the conjecture that this mail-clad effigy represents +some forgotten scion of the noble family of Carew, erstwhile lords of +this place. + +The ancient tiles upon the chancel floor are also worthy of notice, +displaying the emblems of the bishopric with the arms of Sir Rhys ap +Thomas, the Tudor rose, and various other devices. + +[Illustration: OLD RECTORY HOUSES AT CAREW] + +Having completed our survey of this interesting church, we next make our +way to a curious-looking structure known as the Old Rectory. Though now +a mere farmhouse the place bears traces of considerable antiquity, and +appears, like many of the older dwellings in this locality, to have +been built with an eye to defence. The massive walls are corbelled out +beneath the eaves of the roof, which is pitched at a steep angle, giving +the old structure a picturesque appearance. The house has apparently +been formerly enclosed within a walled precinct; and a fast-fading +tradition tells vaguely of 'the soldiers' having been quartered here in +the turbulent days of old. + +But it is high time to be up and away, so pulling ourselves together we +face the slanting sunlight, and put the best foot foremost _en route_ +for Upton Castle. + +After passing the grounds of Milton House, we follow the Pembroke road +for about a mile and a half, until, just short of the fingerpost, we +strike into a hollow lane that leads direct to Upton. The latter part of +the way goes through a shady avenue, affording glimpses of the winding +Haven and the broad, gray front of Carew Castle. + +[Illustration: UPTON CASTLE] + +Upton Castle is undoubtedly of very ancient origin, but it has been +restored and rendered habitable of late years, and is now occupied as a +dwelling-house. The original gateway, with its double arch, is flanked +by tall round towers pierced with loopholes for archery, and is crowned +by corbelled battlements. A small old building beside the neighbouring +creek was probably used as a guard-house or watch-tower. + +[Illustration: OLD CHAPEL AT UPTON] + +Within the castle grounds stands Upton Chapel, a lowly structure of no +architectural pretensions, yet containing several objects well worthy of +notice. + +Opposite the entrance is the fine mural monument seen on the left of our +sketch. The figure beneath the canopy is supposed to represent one of +the Malefants, an extinct family that for several centuries made a +considerable figure in this and the adjacent counties. The knight is +clad in a complete suit of mail, having a chain around the neck, with +the hands folded in the attitude of prayer. The upper portion of the +monument bears traces of colour and decoration, while the canted ends +are adorned with carven figures beneath dainty canopies. + +[Illustration: FROM UPTON CHAPEL.] + +A curious if not unique feature is the candelabrum, in the form of a +clenched fist, that projects from the adjacent wall. This singular +object is fashioned from a piece of yellow limestone, and is pierced +with a hole to contain the candle formerly used at funerals and other +ceremonies. It appears probable that the worthy knight whose effigy lies +near may have left a small pension for the maintenance of this +candelabrum. + +The handsome Jacobean pulpit was originally in St. Mary's Church at +Haverfordwest, whence it was acquired by purchase during the restoration +of that edifice. + +Upon passing through the small, plain chancel arch, we espy a huge, +dilapidated effigy in a corner by the south wall. Though bereft of half +its lower limbs, the figure still measures fully six feet in length. +This image is clad in a complete suit of chain-mail, and is considered +to be the most ancient of its kind in the county. To its history we have +no clue, but tradition avers that this rude specimen of the sculptor's +art represents a certain 'tall Ammiral' of bygone times, Lord of Upton +Castle, who, returning from distant voyagings, was wrecked and cast +lifeless ashore almost within sight of home. + +A stone let into the chancel pavement shows the tonsured head of an +ecclesiastic, with a floreated cross and damaged inscription. Within +the Communion-rails we observe a female figure, draped from head to foot +in flowing robes and lying under an ogee canopy. Though devoid of any +distinctive badge this figure is well executed, and in a very fair state +of preservation. + +Upon the south side of the chapel, and close to the entrance-door, rises +the small stone cross figured at the end of this chapter. It is raised +upon a sort of basement constructed of masonry overgrown with +vegetation, and is approached by rough stone steps. + +We now retrace our steps to the highroad, and at the fingerpost bear to +the left. Just beyond the old toll-gate we pass near a house called +Holyland, so named from the fact that its stones were drawn from the +ruins of an ancient hospital, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, which +formerly existed at Pembroke. + +As we traverse the King's Bridge, at the head of the tidal water, the +clamour of the 'many-wintered crows,' winging their homeward flight to a +neighbouring spinny, falls pleasantly on our ears. Thus we reenter the +quiet street of Pembroke, while the arrowy swifts, wheeling around St. +Mary's time-worn steeple, fill the air with their shrill, piercing +cries. + +Finally we round off the day's adventures by climbing the castle walls, +whence the eye traces all the familiar landmarks standing clear-cut +against a glowing sky, with a broad span of the fast-empurpling +landscape, locked in a silvery reach of the winding Haven. + + * * * * * + +Beside the deep, untroubled waters of Milford Haven, there has grown up +within the present century one of the finest and most complete +shipbuilding establishments around our coasts. Here were constructed +those hearts of oak that bore our flag so bravely in days of yore; and +hence are nowadays turned out the leviathan 'battleships' that will bear +the brunt of Britain's future wars upon the vasty deep. + +Lord Nelson was, we believe, one of the first to point out the peculiar +advantages offered by Milford as a constructing yard for the British +navy. + +In the first years of the present century, the Government rented an +existing yard at Milford for a term of fourteen years; after which, +being unable to come to terms with Lady Mansfield's representatives, the +authorities caused the establishment to be removed to the opposite side +of the Haven. Thus arose the modern town of Pembroke Dock; and from +these modest beginnings the place has continued to increase, both in +size and importance, down to the present day. + +In spite of its remoteness from the manufacturing districts, whence most +of the tools, materials, etc., have to be brought, the work is turned +out in a style that would do credit to any establishment, by as steady, +thrifty a set of men as is to be found in any Government yard. The +workmen dwell in rows of neat cottages, forming a small town at the rear +of the slipways. Though unpicturesque enough, these modest dwellings +appear clean and sanitary, although unfortunately still lacking that +prime necessity, a constant supply of pure water. + +The adjacent hill is crowned by a heavily-armed redoubt, while many a +vantage-point of the winding waterway is so strongly fortified that, +should an enemy endeavour to force a passage, he would probably +experience a _mauvais quart d'heure_ in the warm welcome prepared for +him. + +From Pembroke a short run by train, and a ten minutes' walk through +dull, workaday streets lands us at the dockyard gates. Before passing +through, a constable politely relieves the visitors of such parlous +_impedimenta_ as fusees, lucifer matches and the like inflammables. +Thence we are handed on to a stalwart sergeant, who without more ado +pioneers us around the constructing sheds. Work is now in full swing, +and the ring of riveters' hammers and clang of resonant metal combine, +with a thousand other ear-splitting sounds, to swell an uproar fit to +awaken the Seven Sleepers. + +By dint of stentorian shouting, our _cicerone_ explains the various +details of construction; now descanting on the special merits of a swift +'torpedo-catcher,' anon describing the internal economy of a +half-completed gunboat. Meanwhile weird, Rembrandtesque effects of light +and shade are seen on every side, as the men ply their heavy labour in +the gloom of the iron-ribbed hull. + +Thence we pass onward to a gigantic shed, lofty as a cathedral, with its +forefoot planted in the sea. Here the rudimentary ribs of a huge +ironclad swell upward from the keel-plate, resembling the skeleton of +some antediluvian monster of the deep. + +Farther on we come to long ranges of spacious workshops, crammed with +machinery of the latest types propelled by engines both ancient and +modern. By means of these, thick metal plates and beams are shaped and +fashioned as easily as wood in a carpenter's shop. Here lies a massive +bronze casting weighing many tons, destined to form the ram of H.M.S. +_Renown_; yonder a metal plane shaves off golden spirals, much like the +'corkscrew' curls of other days, from a plate of solid brass. In another +direction a strapping mechanic is bringing a steel plate to the +requisite curve, by means of herculean blows from a heavy sledge. + +Pass we now to the iron foundry, where a gang of workmen are about to +draw the glowing metal from the furnace. The scintillating mass is +hitched on to a movable crane, and borne away to be manipulated between +a pair of massive metal rollers. After several successive squeezes, it +emerges in the form of a huge armour plate. + +Now, too, the Nasmyth hammer is much _en évidence_, its mighty strokes +shaking the solid ground as we approach; yet so docile is the monster +that the engineer cracks a nut beneath it, to the no small astonishment +of the visitors. + +Nor must we omit a peep at the wood-working shops, where the circular +saw sings at its work the live-long day, shearing the roughest logs into +comely planks with wonderful precision, while skilful hands fashion and +frame the various parts required. + +All these multifarious handicrafts, carried on in extensive and +inflammable structures, necessitate an efficient fire-extinguishing +apparatus. This is maintained in a separate building, and is kept in +apple-pie order, ever ready to fight the flames in case of an outbreak +of the devouring element. + + * * * * * + +Resuming our peregrinations 'in search of the picturesque,' we now bid +farewell to the county-town of Pembroke. At Hobb's Point a grimy little +steamboat, that years ago plied on the Thames, ferries the traveller +across to the railway pontoon at New Milford, whence we entrain _en +route_ for Haverfordwest. + +Rail and river keep company for a time through a pleasant, undulating +country, with copsewood feathering down to the water's edge. Presently +we pass close to Rosemarket, a primitive-looking village where, in the +days of the Stuarts, dwelt a certain fair maid named Lucy Walters. + +[Illustration: LUCY WALTERS.] + +Here at the age of seventeen 'that browne, beautifull, bold but insipid +creature,' as Evelyn calls her, was discovered by the gay Prince +Charlie, who was so fascinated by the young lady's charms that he bore +her away with him in his cavalcade. + +Lucy's grandfather it is said constructed a fine genealogical tree, in +which that gay lady figures as 'married to King Charles ye Seconde of +England.' + +The house where Lucy Walters' father lived has long since disappeared, +the only relics of that period being probably the old stone pigeon-house +east of the village, and the parish cockpit! + +Our sketch of the famous beauty is copied from a contemporary portrait, +brought from Dale Castle, whither the Walters family removed from their +earlier home. It is now in the possession of a gentleman residing near +Pembroke, who has kindly allowed us to make the accompanying copy. + +The next station is Johnston, where we will break our journey and take a +peep at the church, whose steeple we descry as the train approaches the +station. The little structure stands, with a few cottages grouped around +it, at a corner of the lanes; and its gray, time-worn stones make a +pretty picture amidst their setting of fresh green foliage. + +At the western end of the church rises a small but ancient tower, with +roof fast falling to decay. The lower part is solid, but towards the top +it is pierced with a quartette of graceful, traceried windows, of which +three have been blocked up; while the only bell the church could boast +lies broken in two on the stone floor. + +Small as it is, the church has shallow projecting bays, or chapels, +after the manner of double transepts. Between them rises the chancel +arch, devoid of features save a quaint, square-headed opening on either +side, enclosing two small pointed arches. + +[Illustration: JOHNSTON CHURCH.] + +The interior, with its two-decker pulpit, simple box-pews and ancient +font, has a quiet, old-world look; and the chancel, raised one step +only above the body of the church, contains a double sedilia, a small +piscina and a few other early features. + +Rumour hath it that the 'restorer,' save the mark! already lays his +plans for the undoing of this interesting structure. However, as the +attention of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings has +been given to the subject, we may hope that their praiseworthy efforts +to maintain the ancient features of this church, in their unrestored +simplicity, will eventually be crowned with success. + +[Illustration: A VIEW OF HAVERFORDWEST] + +A long league's trudge still separates us from Haverfordwest; so we +breast the easy slope of Drudgeman's Hill, and presently descend to +Merlin's Bridge, spanning an affluent of the Cleddau. A scattered group +of cottages that overlooks the stream bears some slight traces of the +chapel that formerly stood here. A kind of Vanity Fair was formerly held +in the vicinity, when the country folk foregathered at Cradock's Well, a +wonder-working spring frequented by a hermit who had his cell at +Haroldstone. + +The Perrots of Haroldstone were great people in their time. Here dwelt +the gallant Sir John Perrot, Lord Deputy of the Sister Isle in good +Queen Bess's reign; also Sir Herbert of that ilk, the contemporary and +friend of Addison, who is said to have been the original of that pink of +courtesy, the incomparable Sir Roger de Coverley. + +We now make a short _détour_ to visit the ruins of Haverfordwest Priory, +which stand in a meadow close beside the Cleddau. Though of considerable +extent, there is not much to detain us here save a mass of crumbling +arches and ivy-mantled walls, apparently of Early English date. This +priory was established about the year 1200 by Robert de Haverford, first +Lord of Haverfordwest, for the Order of Black Canons. It stands in one +of those pleasant, riverside nooks that the monks of old so frequently +selected. + +The massive tower of St. Thomas's Church, crowning the brow of an +adjacent hill, forms a conspicuous feature in our general view of the +town. Though much modernized, this church contains one relic of the past +that must on no account be overlooked. + +Upon the pavement of the north aisle is preserved an ancient slab of +limestone, whose battered surface is carved in low relief with a +beautiful, foliated cross, terminating in trefoils; beside the cross is +an object resembling a palm branch, and a closer inspection reveals, +incised upon the edge of the stone, the legend: F RICARD LE PAUMER GIT +ICI DEU DE SAALME EIT MERCI AMEN. + +[Illustration: BROTHER RICHARD'S TOMB IN THE CHURCH OF ST THOMAS À +BECKET HAVERFORDWEST.] + +According to the verdict of the antiquaries, this curious monument +records a certain brother Richard the Palmer, who, in days so remote as +the time of Giraldus Cambrensis, journeyed as a pilgrim to Rome; or it +may be joined as a recruit in the Crusade of Bishop Baldwin. + +Up in the tower we discover a brace of fine old bells, the larger one +bearing the motto SANCTUS GABRIEL ORA PRO NOBIS; the smaller, or sanctus +bell, GEVE THANKES TO GOD, T. W. 1585. + +This church was formerly a possession of the Perrots of Haroldstone, +until in Queen Elizabeth's reign the Crown became, as it has ever since +remained, the patron of the living. + +Let us glance back into the past as we stroll through the clean, +bustling streets of the little Western metropolis. + +From the earliest times Haverfordwest held a position second only in +importance to that of Pembroke, as a bulwark of The Little England +beyond Wales. + +Its castle, built by Gilbert de Clare, first Earl of Pembroke, stood as +a protection to the English settlement against the incursions of the +hardy mountaineers, who had been driven back by the advancing immigrants +upon the wild hill fastnesses of the interior. + +The lofty walls of Gilbert's ruined castle, dominating the town that +clusters around its feet, and the mediæval churches that rise amidst its +steep, paved streets, recall the vanished _prestige_ of Haverfordwest; +while a characteristic vein of local dialect, which lingers yet despite +of Board Schools, attests the foreign ancestry of some of the worthy +townsfolk. + +Curiously enough, Haverfordwest forms a county all to itself; and is +further distinguished by the fact that, alone amongst the towns of Great +Britain, the place boasts a Lord-Lieutenant all its own, a privilege +obtained from the Crown by a very early charter, when Pembrokeshire was +a County Palatine. + +The town formerly returned its own member to Parliament, but of late the +representation has been merged in the districts of Pembroke, Tenby and +Haverfordwest. + +[Illustration: SAINT MARY'S HAVERFORDWEST.] + +But it is time to look about us, so we now make our way to St. Mary's +church, in the centre of the town. + +Contrasted with the primitive structures we have seen in the country +parishes, this is a noble church indeed, having been in large part +constructed during the best period of Gothic architecture. The lofty +nave is covered with a flat wooden ceiling, relieved by enriched bosses +at the intersections of the beams, and upborne by handsome brackets +against the walls. It is connected with the adjacent aisle by a series +of richly-moulded arches, supported upon tall clustered pillars. + +On the north side of the chancel stands a group of thirteenth-century +pillars and arches of still more elaborate character, whose capitals are +encrusted with a variety of grotesque figures intertwined amongst +deeply-cut foliage. + +Handsome traceried windows admit a flood of light into the chancel, +whose walls display monuments and epitaphs of no little beauty and +interest. + +In a remote untended corner of the church lies the mutilated effigy of +an ecclesiastic, whose sober livery, and wallet embellished with +scallop-shells, mark him as a pilgrim who has crossed the seas to the +shrine of St. James of Compostella, in Spain. + +Passing out by the north porch, we observe a pair of tall, carved +bench-ends, on one of which St. George is seen in combat with a +triple-headed dragon. A sketch of this bench-end will be found at the +head of Chapter XII. + +After glancing at St. Martin's, the mother church of Haverfordwest, +with its slender, crooked spire, we turn townwards again as dusk creeps +on, and come to anchor at the Mariners Hotel. The old-fashioned +hospitality of this comfortable inn is a welcome relief after a long +day's tramp, so we cannot do better than make it our headquarters while +exploring the surrounding country. + +[Illustration: ARMS OF HAVERFORDWEST.] + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +TO ST. BRIDES, MARLOES AND THE DALE COUNTRY. + + +The irregular island-girt peninsula lying between Milford Haven and St. +Bride's Bay presents but few attractions for the ordinary tourist, to +whom, indeed, this portion of Pembrokeshire is practically a _terra +incognita_. Nevertheless, the locality has its own characteristic +features, which the appreciative traveller will probably enjoy none the +less for having to discover them for himself, unaided by the +guide-books. + +Availing ourselves of one of the numerous vehicles that ply during +summer-time between Haverfordwest and the sea-coast, we escape a tedious +tramp of some seven miles or more. + +About half-way out our attention is called to a plain, rough stone close +by the wayside. This is known as Hang-stone Davey, from the fact that a +noted sheep-stealer of that ilk, halting to rest upon the stone with his +ill-gotten booty slung around his neck, fell asleep and was strangled by +the weight of his burden. + +Presently the blue sea opens out ahead, and the lane makes a sudden turn +over against a lonely country church. As we approach it, the little +edifice presents such a curious medley of gables and turrets, as to +tempt us to closer inspection. + +[Illustration: WALTON WEST CHURCH.] + +Walton-West church has been carefully and wisely restored of recent +years, and not before it was needed, for it is on record that in the +'good old times' two boys were kept at work on rainy Sundays, sweeping +the water that flowed in at the porch into a pit formed in a disused +pew. Eventually matters were brought to a climax by the snow falling +through a rent in the roof, and lodging upon the bald head of an ancient +worshipper! As usual, the tower, which appears never to have been +completed, is the oldest remaining portion of the fabric; indeed, it has +been considered as pre-Norman, a stone having, as we are informed, been +found in the wall bearing the date A.D. 993. A small effigy, apparently +of the Elizabethan period, built into the interior of the tower, is +usually supposed to represent the patron saint of the church. Upon the +north side of the chancel stands a well-proportioned chapel that +formerly appertained to the family of Lort-Philipps. + +[Illustration: WALWYN'S CASTLE.] + +In an out-of-the-way spot, about a mile to the southward, lies the +secluded hamlet of Walwyn's Castle. The distance is nearly doubled by +the crooked lanes, but a pleasant field-path saves a longer _détour_. +From the brow of the hill we have three churches full in view, in +diminishing perspective--Walwyn's Castle, down in the valley: Robeston, +farther away; and Steynton, conspicuous upon a distant hill. + +[Illustration: SUMMER SHOWERS LITTLE HAVEN.] + +The church of Walwyn's Castle stands upon a gentle eminence that slopes +to a hollow, wooded dingle overhanging a streamlet, whose waters meander +away to a creek of the ubiquitous Haven. + +The salient feature of the edifice is its tall, slender tower, and +narrow stair-turret rising to the embattled roof. Upon the southern side +the land falls away steeply, and the brow of the bank is scored with the +grassy mounds of the ancient camp or castle, whence the place derives +its curious name. + +In an old black-letter chronicle of the sixteenth century it is +recorded, 'In the Province of Wales which is callyd Roose, the sepulchre +of Walwyne was found. He reigned in that parte of Britain which is +callyd Walwythia. The Tombe was found in the days of William the +Conqueror, King of England, upon the sea side, and contayned in length +fourteen foote.' + +A local variation of this time-honoured fable avers that Walwyn was +buried on the site of the above-mentioned camp, and a sort of arched +aperture, now fallen in and well-nigh obliterated, was formerly pointed +out as the burial-place of this very 'lofty' hero. + +[Illustration: LITTLE HAVEN.] + +Returning now to Walton, we descend a short but extremely steep bit of +road to the village of Little Haven. A few fishermen's cottages, a +homely inn and a handful of lodging-houses clambering up the rearward +hill, form the sum total of this most diminutive of watering-places. + +[Illustration: LOW TIDE AT LITTLE HAVEN.] + +Seawards the hamlet is begirt by ruddy sandstone cliffs of moderate +height, the rocky strata being twisted into the most curious +contortions, and pierced with caverns and crannies frequented by bathers +and picnic parties. The firm dry sands, exposed at low tide, afford a +pleasant seaside stroll to the more spacious shores of Broad Haven. + +After calling a halt for a sketch of Little Haven, we up sticks and +away, pursuing a south-westerly course by a road that climbs high above +the rock-bound coast. Far below us lies a picturesque cove, with a rude +flight of steps, hewn from the rock, leading to a landing-place used by +the fisher-folk. + +[Illustration: ST. BRIDES.] + +After passing Talbenny Church, we approach St. Brides, and obtain the +pretty _coup d'oeil_ represented in the accompanying sketch: the +church and old-fashioned rectory-house nestling under the lee of some +wind-tossed trees, while Lord Kensington's fine residence of St. Brides +Hill shows clearly out against the dark woodlands that crest the western +down. To the right is seen a glimpse of the tiny haven, famous in bygone +times for its productive herring fishery. The little structure close +beside the water occupies the site of an old fishermen's chapel, which, +falling into ruins, was put to the degenerate uses of a salt-house. From +that time forth, as the old story runs, the herrings deserted their +accustomed haunts, and the fishing trade dwindled away: + + 'When St. Bride's Chapel a salt-house was made, + St. Bride's lost the herring trade.' + +The parish church is interesting, and has a bright, well-cared-for look +that is pleasant to see. Upon the floor of a small north transept lie +four sadly defaced effigies. The largest of these is reputed to +represent St. Bride, the patron saint of the church, a contemporary of +St. David and St. Patrick. According to tradition, St. Bride sailed over +with certain devout women from Ireland, and established a nunnery here. +A short distance south-east from the church rise the ivy-mantled ruins +of some extensive buildings of unknown origin, overshadowed by dark +trees and surrounded by lofty stone walls pierced with loopholes, while +an arched gateway opens towards the west. + +[Illustration: ORLANDON.] + +Upon leaving St. Brides, we strike directly inland by the Dale road. +This brings us in about a quarter of an hour to Orlandon, where the +skeleton of a large old mansion rises grimly above a group of wayside +cottages. In its palmy days Orlandon was the home of the Laugharnes, a +family of some celebrity in their time, but now extinct in this +locality. + +According to a romantic story, the first member of this family who +appeared in this district was shipwrecked and washed up more dead than +alive on the seashore not far away. Here he was found by the daughter +and heiress of Sir John de St. Brides, who caused him to be carried to +her father's house, where he was hospitably entertained. + +Laugharne, of course, was soon over head and ears in love with his fair +deliverer, and the lady being in nowise backward in response to his +suit, they married and founded a family whose descendants resided for +generations at Orlandon. + +[Illustration: MULLOCK BRIDGE.] + +Another mile brings us to Mullock Bridge, where a long causeway +traverses a marshy backwater of the Haven. Anent this same bridge a +quaint story is related concerning Sir Rhys ap Thomas of Carew. Having +registered a vow before the King that Henry of Richmond should not +ascend the throne save _over his body_, the crafty knight fulfilled his +word by crouching beneath the arch of Mullock bridge while Henry rode +across it. + +A glance at the map suggests a short _détour_ to obtain a peep at +Marloes. The sandy lane, meandering beside a streamlet, lands us right +abreast of the church at the entrance to the village. The little edifice +makes a pleasant picture, with a handful of low thatched cottages +grouped around. Inside we find the small pointed chancel arch with +projecting wings, characteristic of the churches in this locality. + +[Illustration: MARLOES.] + +There are some curious features here, notably an old bronze sanctus +bell, and a modern baptistery sunk in a corner of the floor, to meet the +predilections of the Welsh churchman, who does not apparently consider +the ceremony of baptism complete unless he can 'goo throw the watter.' + +Dwelling apart from the busier haunts of men, the good folk of this +remote parish have kept pretty much to themselves, and have acquired the +reputation of being a simple-minded, superstitious race--'Marloes +gulls,' as the saying is. In order to save the long Saturday's tramp to +Haverford market, a Marloes man hit upon the ingenious device of walking +_half_ the distance on Friday, then returning home he would complete the +_rest of the walk_ the next day! + +In the 'good old times,' if tales be true, these Marloes people were +notorious wreckers. On dark tempestuous nights they would hitch a +lanthorn to a horse's tail, and drive the animal around the seaward +cliffs; then woe betide the hapless mariner who should set his course by +this Fata Morgana! There is a story of the parson who, when the news of +a wreck got abroad in church one Sunday morning, broke off his discourse +and exclaimed, 'Wait a moment, my brethren, and give your pastor a fair +start!' + +[Illustration: MARLOES SANDS.] + +Another mile of crooked, crankling lanes takes us to the brow of the sea +cliffs, whence we obtain a bird's-eye panorama of the broad sweep of +Marloes sands. Ruddy sandstone rocks pitched at a steep angle encompass +the bay, and peep grimly out from beneath the smooth, firm sands. +Gateholm rises close in shore, an island at low tide only; the broad +mass of Skokholm stretches out to sea, while the horizon line is broken +by the lonely islet of Grassholm, a favourite haunt of sea birds, and +scene of a notorious 'massacre of the innocents' by a party of +yachtsmen, some few years ago. + +The frequent recurrence of these _holms_ and other place-names of +Scandinavian origin, points unmistakeably to the presence of those old +sea rovers around the Pembrokeshire coast, in the days of 'auld +langsyne.' + +Making our way to the farm called Little Marloes, we push on through +heathy byways, approaching the coast again at West Dale Bay. Now we +catch a glimpse of Dale Castle, with the village of that ilk nestling +under the lee of a dark wood, and harvest-fields crowning the sunny +hillside, while a silvery stretch of the Haven lies in the background. + +Dale Castle appears to have been a place of some importance from very +early times, though of its history we have but meagre records. In the +year 1293 Robertus de Vale granted a charter for a weekly market at his +manor-house of Vale, and here Sir Rhys ap Thomas entertained his future +King after his landing at Mill Bay upon the adjacent coast. + +This village of Dale is still a comely-looking spot, where the pleasant +country residences of the gentlefolk rub shoulders with a sprinkling of +homely cottages; yet withal the village has a certain air about it as of +a place that has known better days. For Dale, it seems, was once a +nourishing seaport, the abode of substantial sea captains and well-to-do +merchant traders; while, if tales be true, the village folk drove a +flourishing business in the contraband goods run in by the 'free trade' +fraternity. In those days good Welsh ale was brewed at Dale by a family +bearing the singular name of Runawae, who exported it in large +quantities to Liverpool: hence Dale Street in that city is said to +derive its title from this place. + +[Illustration: DALE CASTLE AND MILFORD HAVEN.] + +We approach the village by a footpath, and pass betwixt the castle and +the church. The fuchsias, hydrangeas, myrtle and laurustinas that +brighten this little God's acre tell of a genial climate; yet some of +the headstones bear grim records of shipwrecked mariners, who lost their +lives upon the iron-bound coast that shelters this favoured spot. Dale +Church has a tall, unrestored tower, and possesses a slender silver +chalice inscribed with the words 'Poculum Ecclesiæ de Dale, 1577.' A +sketch of this cup will be found at the head of the present chapter. + +The lane now runs below the luxuriant groves of Dale Hill, and then +skirts the shores of the sheltered inlet called Dale Road. 'Dale Rode,' +says George Owen, 'is a goodlye Baye and a fayre rode of great receipte; +one of the best Rodes and Bayes of al Milforde and best defended from al +windes, the East and South East excepted. In al this Rode there is good +landing at al times.' Close beside the water stands a humble alehouse +called the Brig, which bears evident traces of its smuggler patrons, +being literally honeycombed with cellars and secret cupboards for the +storage of their booty. Even now the walls still reek with moisture, +from the salt stored away in inaccessible corners during those piping +times when that commodity was worth a couple of guineas the +hundredweight. + +We now direct our steps towards St. Anne's Head, in order to visit Mill +Bay, the traditional landing-place of Henry of Richmond. 'Here in +Pembrokeshire,' says old George Owen, 'happened his landinge and first +footeinge when he came to enoie the Crowne and to confounde the +parricide and bluddie tyrante Ri:iii. Here founde he the heartes and +hands first of all this lande readye to ayde and assist him.' The saying +goes that as he rushed up the steep bank at the head of his troop Henry, +being scant of breath, exclaimed, 'This is Brunt!' a name that has clung +to the neighbouring farm ever since. + +[Illustration: 'THIS IS BRUNT.'] + +After a flying visit to the lighthouses, we retrace our steps to Dale +village, and, following a track around the head of the tideway, push on +without a halt to Hoaton. Here we find the huge old anchor shown in our +sketch, and the question naturally arises, How did the anchor get there? +A vague tradition still lingers in the locality to the effect that, +centuries ago, a big foreign man-o'-war was driven out of her course and +wrecked upon the shores of St. Bride's Bay. Hence it has been +conjectured that this anchor may be a veritable relic of that 'wonderful +great and strong' Spanish Armada, whose unwieldy galleons were cast +ashore and dashed to pieces upon our western coasts, three hundred years +ago. + +Be that as it may, some years back the anchor, which had previously lain +by the wayside, was dragged into the position where it now stands; the +neighbours lending ready aid in response to offers of ale _ad lib_. +Fifty men with a team of horses were hard put-to to move it, for though +much of the metal has rusted and flaked away, the shank is 20 feet long +and nearly 30 inches thick, while the head of the anchor measures some +14 feet around, and the ring is large enough for a man to pass through. +Truly that old Spanish galleon must have been a veritable Leviathan to +require such an anchor as this! + +From Hoaton we make our way across country to Haverfordwest, and +traversing a district broken up into 'meane hills and dales,' we +approach the town by way of the Portfield, and proceed to 'outspan' at a +certain snug hostelry not a hundred miles from St. Mary's broad steeple. + +[Illustration: A RELIC OF THE SPANISH ARMADA.] + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +WESTWARD HO! TO ST. DAVIDS. THE CITY AND ENVIRONS. + + +'These high wild hills and rough uneven ways, draw out our miles and +make them wearisome.' Thus, league after league, the sorry team drags +the battered old ramshackle coach up interminable ascents, or plunges in +headlong career down rough, breakneck steeps, _en route_ for that Ultima +Thule of our wanderings, the ancient city of St. Davids. Sixteen miles +and seventeen hills (so the story goes) lie between Haverfordwest and +our destination. The route bears in a north-westerly direction, through +monotonous country relieved by occasional glimpses of the strange, +rugged rocks of Trefgarn, or a peep of more distant Precelly. + +[Illustration: ROCH CASTLE.] + +About half-way out rises the lofty isolated tower of Roch Castle, a +border stronghold dominating the march-lands that for centuries formed +the frontier of this 'Little England beyond Wales.' Built by Adam de +Rupe in the thirteenth century, the tall, picturesque old tower forms a +conspicuous object for miles around, while at its feet a group of +whitewashed cottages cluster around the lowly parish church of St. Mary +de Rupe. + +Crossing the bridge that spans the Newgale Brook, we enter the ancient +Welsh province of Dewisland. Presently our venerable quadrupeds are +crawling at a snail's pace down a slanting hillside not quite so steep +as a house-roof, with the village of Lower Solva squeezed into a crevice +beneath our very feet. + +The situation of this pretty hamlet recalls the Devonshire combe that +enfolds with such inimitable grace the village of Clovelly. Groups of +bowery cottages cluster around the head of a land-locked haven, which, +small as it is, bears no inconsiderable traffic in coal, lime and +general produce from the Bristol Channel ports, for distribution +throughout the western parts of Pembrokeshire. + +The rocky, weed-strewn shores shelving up to low, grassy hills +overarched by the soft blue sky; a stranded coasting vessel, with +weather-stained canvas and rust-eaten anchor, beside a handful of rough +fishermen's cottages, present all that an artist could desire to compose +a charming picture. + +[Illustration: SOLVA HARBOUR. FROM AN OLD PRINT.] + +From the crest of the hill near Upper Solva a wide view of the sea opens +out, with a brace of rocky islets off the coast; while far ahead the +high lands of Ramsey Isle, Carn Llidi and Pen Beri, raise their graceful +undulations above remote Octopitarum, and the wind-swept sandhills that +mark the site of legendary Menapia. + +Coasting along through a rolling treeless country parallel with the +course of the Via Julia (the Roman road from Carmarthen), which +accompanies us henceforth to the end of our journey, we mount the gentle +ascent that leads to the time-honoured 'city,' of which, however, +little is seen until we are 'right there,' as our Transatlantic cousins +say. + +Dismounting at the Grove Hotel, we fare forth for our first view of +time-honoured Ty Dewi, the city of St. Davids. Strolling leisurely along +the quiet grass-grown 'street' of the village-city, we pause now and +again to make way for a herd of cattle, or to watch a flock of geese, +stubbing, with sinewy necks outstretched, in a damp and weed-grown +corner. Presently the roadway widens out, and here stands an ancient +stone cross, which, rising from a flight of time-worn steps, marks the +central point of this most diminutive of cities. + +Casting about for some clue to the whereabouts of St. Davids Cathedral, +we soon espy a low, dark object that proves upon closer inspection to be +the topmost story of the central tower. With this as guide, we traverse +an old paved lane ycleped the Popples, _Anglicè_ Pebbles, and passing +beneath the tower gate--sole survivor of the four gate towers of the +ancient city--enter the cathedral precincts. This point affords perhaps +the most characteristic _coup d'oeil_ of the venerable edifice, set +amidst that stern and sombre landscape with which its time-worn +architecture so completely harmonizes. + +[Illustration: ST. DAVIDS CATHEDRAL.] + +Viewed from our present vantage-point St. Davids Cathedral appears +ensconced within the hollow of the vale, its topmost pinnacles scarce +rising clear of the distant horizon. Grouped around the central mass of +the cathedral stand the crumbling ruins of mediæval structures of +scarcely inferior interest. Away to our left, beyond a grove of +wind-swept trees, rise the arcaded walls of Gower's incomparable palace, +while the slender tower of St. Mary's College peeps over the long +cathedral roof. + +[Illustration: THE GATE TOWER. ST. DAVIDS.] + +The stone wall that encompasses the cathedral close upon its eastern +side terminates in the massive octagonal tower, with Gothic doorway and +windows, seen in the adjoining sketch. This is flanked again by the old +gateway through which we have just entered. + +We now descend the broad flight of steps that, from their number, have +been dubbed the 'Thirty-nine Articles.' Passing through the great south +porch our eyes are greeted by a beautiful Decorated doorway, the work of +Bishop Gower, which is adorned with exquisitely-carved figures and +foliage encrusting arch and pillar. Here enclosed amidst intersecting +branches we discern quaintly sculptured representations of the Root of +Jesse, the Crucifixion, St. David with his harp, and various other +saintly personages; yonder the artist tells the history of Adam and the +birth of Eve; while overhead presides the Holy Trinity, flanked by +angels with swinging censers--a veritable gem of mediæval sculpture. + +Proceeding onward we now enter the nave, whose rich yet massive +architecture forms a unique and enduring memorial of the first Norman +bishop, Peter de Leia. The general effect is of breadth rather than +height, the solid cylindrical pillars supporting semicircular arches of +unusual width, wrought with the varied and elaborate ornamentation of +the Transitional Norman period. + +Above this rises a series of lofty arches enclosing both clerestory and +triforium--a rather unusual arrangement--while a singular appearance is +produced by the upward slope of the floor, and the outward lean of walls +and nave pillars, the latter being the result of an earthquake that +occurred in the thirteenth century. + +The roof which spans the broad nave is one of the most notable features +of the cathedral. It was built of gray Irish oak about the end of the +fifteenth century, and is a veritable masterpiece of construction and +design. The sculptured foliage of the capitals is worthy of close +examination, and one of the nave pillars bears a faded fresco, generally +supposed to represent King Henry IV. Beneath an adjacent arch reposes +the effigy of Bishop Morgan--a goodly figure habited in priestly robes +that are admirably rendered by the sculptor's chisel. The base of this +monument is enriched with an unusually fine Resurrection, carved in +marble. + +Fronting the full width of the nave, the beautiful Decorated rood screen +of Bishop Gower now claims our attention. This exquisite structure is +perhaps unrivalled in the picturesque variety of its several parts, and +the charming effects of light and shade that enhance the mellow tones of +its ancient stonework. Panelled buttresses divide the screen into five +bays, the middle compartment forming a wide archway adorned with flowers +and vine-leaves. To the left is the older portion, subdivided by Gothic +arches borne by detached pillars, with grotesque heads and figures clad +in thirteenth-century armour. A narrow stair winds up to the ancient +rood-loft above. + +Turning to the southern side of the rood-screen, we are confronted by +the rich and sumptuous fabric erected by Bishop Gower, a view of which +forms the Frontispiece of the present volume. Yonder the noble founder +sleeps his last sleep beneath a richly-groined canopy, whose traceried +arches sparkle with cusps and crockets--a dignified, reposeful figure, +worthy the Wykeham of the West, as Gower has been fitly styled. In +memory of his greatest work Gower's tomb once bore the legend, 'Henricus +Gower, Episcopalis Palatio Constructor.' + +After gazing our fill upon this beautiful structure, unquestionably the +_chef d'oeuvre_ of the whole cathedral, we pass through the central +archway beneath a vaulted roof, whose stony ribs, disdaining the +customary support, spring clear of the circumjacent masonry. Here +venerable tombs cluster beneath fretted ceilings that retain much of +their ancient coloured fresco work, depicting figures, foliage, and +fantastic forms which in nowise transgress the Scriptural commandment, +for they bear little or no resemblance to any created thing. + +We next enter the choir, which occupies the space beneath the central +tower. Upon either hand extends a range of canopied stalls, with seats +devoted to the use of the dean and chapter of the cathedral. + +These old miserere seats were so ingeniously balanced that if an unwary +brother chanced to nod over his breviary, he was quickly brought to his +seven senses by the overturning of his treacherous perch. + +[Illustration: SEAFARING PILGRIMS.] + +The under-sides of these curious benches have been adorned by the +craftsmen of that bygone time with the quaint conceits of their mediæval +fancy. Here, for instance, a vigorously carved panel portrays in +unmistakeable fashion the woebegone plight of two seafaring pilgrims, +whom a pair of jolly monks are ferrying across the troubled waters of +Ramsey Sound. + +[Illustration: THE BONE OF CONTENTION.] + +Yonder some subtle humorist has been at work, and given us his version +of the priest under the guise of a fox administering the wafer to a +goose of a layman: and it may be noticed that (after the olden custom) +the priest reserves the wine flagon to himself. This forms the subject +of our sketch at end of Chapter VIII. Two wolfish-looking dogs snarling +over a bone may by some be thought to prove the antiquity of the +familiar couplet, + + 'Taffy was a Welshman, Taffy was a thief, + Taffy came to my house and stole a piece of beef.' + +[Illustration: THE BOATBUILDERS.] + +Then we have a couple of sturdy boat-builders, one of whom, having laid +aside his adze, drains the contents of a capacious cup, while a mighty +beaker stands ready to his hand. + +With such-like quaint original devices have those men of old encrusted +the surface of these ancient stalls. So, having done justice to their +curious details, we pass on through a _second_ screen separating the +chancel from the presbytery, an arrangement peculiar, we believe, to St. +Davids Cathedral. This portion of the fabric was rebuilt with pointed +arches after the fall of the central tower in 1220, and contains some +extremely interesting features. + +The place of honour in the centre of the presbytery is occupied by the +tomb of Edmund Tudor, father of Henry VII., a massive table monument of +Purbeck marble, enriched with shields and heraldic devices, and bearing +the proud inscription: 'Under this Marble Shrine here enclos'd resteth +the Bones of that noble Lord, Edmund Earl of Richmond, Father and +Brother to Kings, the which departed out of this World in the Year of +our Lord God a thousand four hundred fifty and six, the first Day of the +Month of November, on whose Soul almighty Jesus have Mercy, Amen.' + +[Illustration: SAINT DAVID'S SHRINE.] + +Upon the north side of the presbytery rises the stone structure that +formed the base of St. David's Shrine. It is the work of Bishop Richard +de Carew, and dates from the latter half of the thirteenth century. The +three arches seen in our sketch were once adorned with figures +representing St. David. St. Patrick and St. Denis, while the quatrefoil +openings beneath were provided with small lockers to receive the +offerings of devotees. In the presbytery we also notice a small circular +piscina of very ancient date pierced with concentric rows of holes--a +rare and curious feature. + +After examining the handsome effigy of Bishop Anselm Le Gros, nephew of +Earl William of Pembroke, with its laconic couplet-- + + 'Petra Precor dic sic + Anselmus Episcopus jacet hic' + +two fine recumbent figures of very ancient date arrest our attention, +none other than those famous South Welsh princes, the Lord Rhys ap +Gruffydd and his son, Rhys Grygg. + +Higden, in his quaint 'Polychronicon,' breaks forth into unbounded +panegyrics over the great Lord Rhys: 'O blysse of battayle!' he +exclaims, 'Chylde of Chyvalry! defence of Countrie! worshyppe of Armes! +the noble dyadame of fayrnesse of Wales is now fallen, that is, Rees is +dead. The Enemy is heere, for Rees is not heere; now Wales helpeth not +itself; Rees is dead and taken away, but hys noble Name is not dead, for +it is alwayes new in the wide Worlde. His Prowesse passeth hys manners; +hys Wytte passeth hys Prowesse: hys fayre Speech passeth hys Wytte; hys +good Thews passeth hys fayre Speech!' + +Not to prolong the subject _ad nauseam_, we will merely indicate as more +particularly worthy of notice the tomb of Silvester Medicus; a recumbent +effigy _reputed_ to be that of Giraldus Cambrensis, of Manorbere; the +massive shrine of St. Caradoc; and two early Celtic crosses in the south +transept, bearing the device + +[Illustration] + +with the legend PONTIFICIS ABRAHAM FILII. + +We next glance into St. Thomas's Chapel, one of the oldest portions of +the fabric, whose massive groined roof is adorned with sculptured bosses +of unusual size. Here is a piscina enclosed within a group of pointed +arches, whose lovely Early English enrichments form one of the daintiest +features of the cathedral. + +We now enter the beautiful chapel erected by Edward Vaughan, the last of +the great building prelates of St. Davids. It boasts a handsome +fan-vaulted ceiling, and a peculiar hagioscope fashioned like a cross +within a circle. + +[Illustration: SYMBOL OF THE TRINITY ST. DAVID'S.] + +Some curious details attract our notice as we wander amongst the +unrestored chapels. In one of these, a trio of sculptured quadrupeds +suggests the idea of the Trinity, while another contains the effigy of a +knight in chain-mail, shorn of half its length by a clumsy buttress--a +legacy from the days of churchwarden misrule. + +Outside the Lady Chapel stood St. Mary's Well, which according to +tradition arose at the prayer of St. David to supply the neighbouring +monastery. Giraldus tells us that this accommodating spring would +sometimes flow with wine, at other times with milk, and that it was the +scene of many edifying miracles. + +Sauntering around the mellow-tinted walls of the old cathedral, we +notice the huge flying buttresses built against its northern side to +strengthen the fabric. These rugged bastions, clothed in their luxuriant +mantle of ivy, with the crumbling arches of the ruined cloisters hard +by, group in a picturesque fashion beneath the central tower, whose +broad front, bronzed by the rays of the declining sun, forms a +rallying-point for a host of homing jackdaws. + +A bowshot westward of the cathedral stand the beautiful ruins of the +Bishop's Palace, rising from amidst the rich meadows beside the Allan +River. Our route thither lies over the stony way called the Popples, the +ancient approach to St. David's Shrine, and traverses the low-arched +bridge that superseded the Llechllafar, or Speaking Stone, which in +olden times spanned the stream at this point. + +Many a curious legend clung around this venerable stone, which Giraldus +tells us was even in his time worn hollow by the feet of wayfarers. +Tradition avers that Llechllafar was wont to cry out in remonstrance if +a corpse was carried across it; and Merlin is said to have foretold that +an English king, returning from the conquest of Ireland, was to meet his +death upon this spot. So when Henry II. chanced this way, a disappointed +suppliant endeavoured to foist this sinister prediction upon him; but +the King, having made a suitable oration to the stone, passed over it +unharmed to make his orisons before the Shrine of St. David. + +[Illustration: BISHOP GOWER'S PALACE ST. DAVIDS.] + +Turning from the scene of these miraculous events, we pass a group of +lowly cottages and enter the ruined gateway of the palace. Across a +stretch of greensward, close-cropped by flocks of sheep, rise the ruined +walls of Bishop Gower's lordly dwelling; the open-arched parapets +casting a dappled shade athwart the grass-grown courtyard. + +Built in the Decorated style that prevailed throughout the fourteenth +century, this interesting structure extends around a quadrangle, of +which two sides remain in fair preservation, the others being either +much in ruins, or entirely razed to the ground. Everything here speaks +of peace and bygone hospitality. A wide ogee archway adorned with +sculptured niches gives access to the banqueting-hall, an apartment of +noble proportions adorned with an exquisite rose window still in good +preservation. Near at hand rises the chapel, with its picturesque +bell-turret and pointed windows; while over all runs a pretty open +arcade, borne upon huge corbels embellished with grotesque heads and +strange fantastic monsters. A pleasant variety has been obtained by +arranging the stonework above the arches in a kind of diaper pattern, as +may be seen in the accompanying sketch taken from the meadows, whence +the rose window forms a very charming feature. With the lapse of time +these venerable ruins have mellowed into all sorts of harmonious hues, +where golden lichens, valerian and climbing plants innumerable, have run +riot over the rough purple sandstone. + +[Illustration: THE PALACE ST. DAVID'S FROM THE MEADOWS.] + +From the ford across the little stream beneath the palace walls, a +charming view is obtained of the ancient bridge and its rough, ivy-clad +abutments, backed by the massive front of the cathedral and the +picturesque tower and arches of St. Mary's College. + +Built by Bishop Adam Houghton towards the close of the fourteenth +century, the college chapel, with its vast Perpendicular windows, must +in former times have presented an imposing appearance. Here the founder +lay at rest under a sumptuous canopy, of which, however, not a vestige +now remains. Beneath the chapel is a low groined crypt, but the various +collegiate offices which lay to the north have long since been swept +away; while the crumbling arcades of the cloisters serve nowadays to +shelter the benches of the masons employed in repairing the cathedral. + +St. Non's Chapel, the reputed birthplace of St. David, stands in an open +meadow overlooking the sea, about a mile outside the city. It is a mere +tumbled mass of rude cyclopean masonry, and has no features worthy of +note save a simple cross enclosed within a circle, engraved upon an +upright slab of stone. An ancient well dedicated to St. Non, the mother +of St. David, occupies a corner of the same field. + +Some quaint traditions hang around the old chapel called Capel Stinian, +whose scanty ruins overlook Ramsey Sound. St. Justinian, the patron +saint, was treacherously slain by his own followers on Ramsey Island, +whereupon the holy man arose, walked across the straits, and was buried +where his chapel now stands. The assassins, having been smitten with +leprosy, were banished to Gwahan Garreg, the Lepers' Rock. The story +runs that the Puritans stole away the chapel bells, which were famed for +their musical sound; but a great storm arising, the vessel in which they +endeavoured to escape with their booty was overwhelmed, and the bells +cast into the sea. So on stormy nights when the deep, strong tide is +troubling the waters, the dwellers near Ramsey Sound still hear the +chimes of those long-lost bells, above all the strife of the elements. + +Across the straits rises the broad bulk of Ramsey Island: smooth and +tame enough on this side, but presenting to the western ocean a grim +array of tall inaccessible cliffs and gloomy caverns, the haunt of seals +and sea-fowl innumerable. Farther out to sea lies the group of rocky +islets known as the Bishop and his Clerks, 'who,' as George Owen has it, +'are not withoute some small Quiristers who shewe not themselves but at +Spring Tydes and calme seas. The Bishop and these his Clerkes preache +deadlie doctrine to their winter audience, such poore seafaring men as +are forcyd thether by Tempest; onelie in one thinge are they to be +commended; they keep residence better than the canons of that see are +wont to doo.' + +Setting our course for the sea-girt promontory of St. Davids Head, we +direct our steps towards the curious-looking hill called Carn Llidi. The +bold peak of this monticle rises straight before us as we trudge across +the sandy burrows, which, in the course of ages, have invaded the site +of Roman Menapia, the elder sister of St. Davids. + +Thenceforward ensues an exhilarating stretch across the open +boulder-strewn headland. Overhead the sun shines bright and warm, light +fleecy clouds drift landward under a bracing sea-breeze, casting their +purple shadows athwart the azure plain of ocean, which breaks in white +foam upon the 'grisly, fiendy Rockys blake' that fringe the broad sweep +of Whitesand Bay. + +We now push on to the outermost crags of the headland. Stretching +seawards like a long, crooked finger, this remote peninsula forms the +most westerly landfall of Pembrokeshire, and the southernmost horn of +that great Welsh gulf known as Cardigan Bay. Making our way over rough, +rocky ground, we pass a huge half-fallen cromlech; and, as the headland +narrows, a crumbling rampart flanked by a half-obliterated fosse appears +to bar all further progress. This ancient structure, called Clawdd y +Millwyr, or the Warriors' Dyke, is constructed of smallish granite +stones, compacted with soil and turf; it runs in a slightly-curved line, +which is convex upon the landward face, from sea to sea across the +narrow peninsula. + +Just within the shelter of the bank, upon a stretch of comparatively +level greensward, lies one of those _cityau_, or groups of hut-circles, +occasionally to be met with throughout Wales. Six at least of these +primitive dwellings are here discernible, all within a few feet of one +another, and each of considerable size; many of the stones have sharp, +square edges, and some appear to have been rudely shaped to the +requisite curve of the circle. + +Tradition itself is dumb regarding the origin of these mysterious +structures; but there can be little doubt they were erected at a very +remote period. + +Once again under way, we shape our course for the rocky peak of Carn +Llidi. Although barely 600 feet in height, this isolated monticle is in +its upper parts abrupt and precipitous. At first our path leads away up +the ferny slope to a sort of saddle-backed ridge, over whose bare jagged +ledges we clamber onwards until a short, sharp pull up a kind of stony +_couloir_ lands us upon the topmost crag. + +Here we seem to have mounted (like Jack on his Beanstalk) into a new and +undiscovered world, for this isolated perch affords a bird's-eye view +over land and sea that rolls away to the distant horizon. Far beyond the +broad expanse of Cardigan Bay the highlands of Snowdonia loom faint but +clear; a wrinkled, treeless country, chequered by countless fields and +dotted with white farmhouses, trends away league upon league to the +foot-hills of Precelly, and the smoke-begirt heights of Glamorgan. Roch +Castle, upon its lonely hillock, looks out across a silver stretch of +St. Bride's Bay to the islands of Ramsey and Skomer. The village-city is +hidden by an intervening rise, but its situation is marked by the +conspicuous windmill; and westwards St. Davids Head thrusts out like a +crooked finger into the open sunlit ocean. + +[Illustration: OLD COTTAGE NEAR ST DAVIDS.] + +Descending the hill, we work our way along winding sandy lanes, and +return to St. Davids by the coast road coming from Fishguard. At an +out-of-the-way place called Gwryd-Bach we stumble across a curious old +farmstead, and being invited to enter, we proceed to make ourselves at +home in a large low chamber, half living-room, half kitchen. At one end +of this picturesque apartment is a low-browed, vaulted recess, pierced +with a deep-set window, while upon the rough flagged floor beneath +stands a mighty oak table of extremely primitive build. The ample +dresser beside the wall displays such an array of curious old painted +plates, and mugs of antiquated pattern, as might make a connoisseur's +fingers itch. One retired corner is partitioned off as a kind of homely +parlour; on another side a rough open stairway gives access to the +garret, while old guns, lanthorns, baskets and such-like articles of a +rustic _ménage_, garnish every available corner of walls and open-rafted +ceiling. + +We return to St. Davids by way of Dowrog Common, the 'Pilgrims' land' of +earlier days, with its huge upright _maenhir_, called St. David's Stone. +Before turning in for the night we overhaul Ordnance maps and +guide-book, in view of an early start upon the morrow in search of +'fresh woods and pastures new.' + +[Illustration: THE PRIEST & THE LAYMAN.] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +TO FISHGUARD, NEWPORT, GOODWIC AND PENCAER. + + +Full five tedious leagues of monotonous cross-country road lie before us +to-day, as we leave St. Davids city northward bound for Fishguard. A +sturdy pedestrian may strike out a more interesting route by following +the coast road--the ancient Fordd Fleming--and diverging at convenient +points to explore the grand cliff scenery below Pen-beri, and the +microscopic havens of Trevine and Abercastell. At Longhouse, close to +the latter place, stands a remarkably fine cromlech, inferior only to +its more famous rival at Pentre Evan, near Newport. + +[Illustration] + +About half-way along the main road we cross a country lane that follows +the course of the old Fleming's Way; and half a mile farther on our +attention is called to an object not unlike a milestone, upon which is +rudely traced a cross within a circle: the irregular disc being about a +foot in diameter. This is known as Mesur-y-Dorth--the Measure of the +Loaf--from a tradition that St. David caused these figures to be made in +order to regulate the size of the loaf of bread in times of scarcity. + +Presently we approach the village of Jordanston; and here it behoves the +belated traveller to 'keep his weather eye open,' for if tales be true, +the ghost of a headless horseman that haunts this locality may be +expected to put in an appearance. + +A couple of miles or so to the northward rises the parish church of +Mathry, conspicuous upon its high hill-top. This church of the Holy +Martyrs once had a lofty steeple, that served as a useful guide to +mariners until blown down one stormy night, many a year ago. Mathry was +a place of some local importance in olden times, receiving a patent for +a market and fair from Edward III., while the greater tithes of this +extensive parish sufficed to endow the 'golden prebend' of St. Davids +Cathedral. + +As we near our destination, the rugged hills of Pencaer rise +picturesquely beyond the sands of Goodwic, while Dinas head rears its +bold front above Cardigan Bay, with the delicate outline of the +Carnarvonshire mountains serrating the distant horizon. + +The town of Fishguard hangs, as it were, upon the slope of a precipitous +hill overlooking the vale of the Gwaen, which here, as George Owen puts +it, 'falleth into the sea, making a faire Haven and goode Harborow for +shipps and Barks.' Its waterside suburb of Abergwaen, approached by one +of the steepest bits of coach road in the Principality, is mainly +frequented by fisher-folk and seafaring men engaged in the coasting +trade. + +Encompassed by sheltering uplands, the narrow vale of the Gwaen has a +singularly mild and equable climate, which fosters a wealth of luxuriant +vegetation. In the course of a stroll through the beautiful grounds of +Glyn-y-Mel, we notice the eucalyptus and bamboo evidently making +themselves quite at home in this sunny nook, while heliotrope and +dracæna, camellia and laurestinus flourish out-of-doors the winter +through. + +Usually the most easy-going of Sleepy Hollows, Fishguard town awoke one +fine morning towards the close of the last century to find itself become +suddenly famous. On February 21, 1797, three French frigates were +sighted off the Pembrokeshire coast bearing up towards Fishguard Bay, +where they presently came to anchor near Carreg Gwastad Point. + +During the ensuing night the enemy came ashore to the number of about +1,500 men, regular troops and gaol-birds, under the leadership of one +Tate, a renegade Irish-American. Tate, with the chief of his +satellites, established himself at the neighbouring farmhouse of +Trehowel, while the main body of the 'invaders' encamped atop of an +isolated hill overlooking the village of Llanwnda. Thence the Frenchmen +dispersed about the countryside, scaring the inhabitants out of their +wits, and rummaging the farmhouses in search of potheen and plunder. + +[Illustration: CLOCK AT BRESTGARN.] + +In one of these exploits a drunken fellow entered a cottage at +Brestgarn, where a 'grandfather' clock happened to be standing in a +corner. Dismayed by the sounds issuing from the mysterious object, the +simpleton fired his gun at a venture, concluding the devil must be +lurking within. This clock is still to be seen at Brestgarn, with the +bullet-hole through the panel as may be noticed in our sketch. + +Meanwhile the authorities bestirred themselves. Under the command of +Lord Cawdor, the Fishguard Fencibles and Castle Martin Yeomanry marched +out to Goodwic Sands, where the enemy, finding the game was up, laid +down their arms and surrendered _à discrétion_. Thus these doughty +regiments achieved the unique distinction of facing a foreign foe on the +soil of Britain itself. It is said that the goodwives of Pembrokeshire, +arrayed in their red woollen 'whittles,' countermarched and deployed +around a neighbouring hill, thus leading the invaders to suppose that a +regiment of gallant redcoats was preparing to oppose their advance. + +The French prisoners were subsequently lodged in durance vile at a place +near Pembroke, whence some of them effected their escape in Lord +Cawdor's yacht, with the connivance of two Pembroke lasses--the old +story of _cherchez la femme_ once more. One of the French vessels having +been afterwards captured was re-christened the _Fisguard_, a name that +has only recently disappeared from the files of the Navy List. +Incredible as it may seem in these days, the news of this famous event +took a whole week to travel to the Metropolis, and it is said that the +anniversary of the French landing is still held in remembrance amongst +the old folk in the locality. + +It is a pleasant stroll from Fishguard to the scene of these historic +events. Our way lies past the church, where, in a corner of the +graveyard, we notice a curiously-incised stone cross. The lane now winds +downhill, and we soon find ourselves pacing the smooth firm expanse of +Goodwic Sands, with the hamlet of that ilk clinging to a wooded hillside +before us. + +Goodwic is picturesquely situated, overlooking a tiny haven and pier in +an elbow of the rock close under the hill. Its genial climate and safe +bathing shore make the place deservedly popular, and cause the handful +of lodging-houses to fill up rapidly during 'the season.' + +Pushing on again, we now enter the district of Pencaer, and, guided by +the trusty Ordnance sheet, thread our way through narrow crooked lanes, +rounding the base of Carn Wnda, where the Frenchmen pitched their camp, +and passing on to the little out-of-the-way village of Llanwnda. + +[Illustration: Llanwnda Church.] + +The church stands in an isolated position overlooking a piece of rough +ground that does duty as village 'green,' a place scattered over with +gray tumbled stones that seem to group themselves into the lines of rude +hut-circles. Two or three low thatched cottages, that might pass for +Irish cabins, appear to have been 'dumped' down haphazard, and look old +enough to have seen Giraldus Cambrensis when he held the benefice here. + +Built in a strong, simple manner well-suited to its exposed situation, +Llanwnda Church has some characteristic features. Above the western +gable rises a low double bell-cot, while a similar but smaller erection +for the sanctus bell divides nave from chancel roof. As we enter the +low-browed porch, we espy a cross of archaic type carved upon a stone +slab in the outer wall; and two similar crosses are to be seen upon the +exterior of the chancel gable. + +The nave retains its dark, oaken timbered roof, having a rudely carved +head upon the eastern side of one of its ancient beams. The openings to +the rood-loft are now blocked up, but at the time of the French +incursion these apertures afforded a hiding-place to a servant-maid and +child, who peeped out in trepidation whilst a gang of ruffians played +havoc in the sacred edifice, setting fire to everything inflammable they +could lay hands upon. + +[Illustration: THE CHALICE AT LLANWNDA.] + +After some little persuasion Mary Reece, the sprightly nonagenarian +caretaker, is prevailed upon to produce the communion chalice for our +inspection. This little vessel has a history of its own, having been +stolen by a Frenchman, who endeavoured to dispose of it at Carmarthen, +trying to pass off the word Llanwnda engraved upon the cup as La Vendée, +a name of France. The chalice, which is much cracked and dented from the +rough handling it has undergone, bears upon the exterior the +inscription: POCULUM ECLESIE DE LLANWNDA. + +Pushing on across country, we win our way after half an hour's rough +scrambling to Carreg Gwastad Point, a low, rocky, furze-clad headland +sloping down to a secluded creek, where the would-be French invaders +effected a landing. + +A more out-of-the-way spot, or one more suited to embark on such an +enterprise, they could not well have chosen. The wild and +little-frequented coast-line of Pencaer stretches away on either hand +with scarce a vestige of a landing-place; while the scattered +peasant-folk, dwelling in isolated cottages and lone farmhouses, could +offer but an ineffectual resistance to the enemy. + +We now extend our route to Trehowel, a large, rambling old farmstead +shaded by trees, where the French commander took up his unwelcome +billet. Thence we strike up the slope of Garn-vawr to the huge British +camp that crowns the summit, a wide prospect over land and sea rewarding +our exertions. Following the crest of the ridge, we enjoy a breezy tramp +across country, sundry fallen cromlechs and such-like relics lending an +old-world interest to the locality. + +Anent the country of Pencaer there is a venerable tradition which runs +somewhat to the following effect: 'Once upon a time' there was a town in +Pencaer called Trêf Cwlhwc, or Cwlhwc's Town. This Cwlhwc appears to +have been a sort of Celtic Hercules, who roamed about his native country +in search of adventures. When grown to man's estate, Cwlhwc began to +entertain ideas of marrying and settling down; whereupon he was informed +by an oracle that no maid save the fair Olwen might become his wife. +Nothing daunted, the giant set forth in quest of his future bride, and +after searching for a year and a day found the beautiful Olwen seated +alone in her bower. + +'She was arrayed,' says the old Welsh Mabinogion, 'in a vesture of +flame-coloured silk, a wreath of ruddy gold was about the damsel's neck, +set with pearl and coral. More yellow was her head than the blossoms of +the broom; her skin was whiter than the foam of the wave; her fingers +fairer than the opening buds of the water-lily, amid the small ripplings +of the fountain of the waters. No brighter eyes than hers were seen; +whiter was her bosom than the breast of the swan, more red her cheeks +than the rose of the mountain. Whoever saw her was filled with love, +and in her every footstep four white trefoils sprang wherever she trod, +and therefore she was named Olwen.' + +The Royal Oak inn at Fishguard (see head of present chapter) formed the +British headquarters in the affair of '97. Trundling out of the town by +the Newport coach, we skirt the slopes of Carn Enoch, across whose +western flank extend the lines of prehistoric _maenhirs_ known as Parc y +Marw, the Field of the Dead. Away to our left rises the big bluff +headland that shelters the village of Dinas, whose pretty cottages peep +out from amidst bowery orchards upon a little secluded cove. A new +church has supplanted the old one, of which the western wall alone +remains, all else having been swept away by inroads of the sea. + +Our route now leads around the rocky shores of Newport Bay, the rough +country lane affording some refreshing glimpses of narrow inlets, with +woodlands feathering down to the water's edge. As we advance, the dark +brow of Carn Englyn swings into view, with the houses of Newport +clustering about its lower slopes. Arrived at that pleasant country town +we beat up quarters for the night, intending to make it our head centre +while exploring that portion of the shire stretching from the foot-hills +of Precelly to the shores of Cardigan Bay. + +[Illustration: A DERELICT.] + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +NEWPORT, NEVERN, AND TEIVYSIDE. + + +We now enter upon that portion of Pembrokeshire distinguished from +earliest times by the name of Kemaes, a district that was constituted a +Lordship Marcher by the Norman invaders of Wales. + +The first conqueror established himself in a strong castle at Newport, +which formed the _Caput Baroniæ_, or chief place of the district. Here +the Lord Marcher of Kemaes held his court in almost regal state, +exercising practically unlimited control over the lives and property of +his newly-conquered vassals. After the manner of the times, the Lord of +Kemaes was empowered to deal summarily with felons, for whom a gaol was +provided within the castle precincts, where a gibbet stood on a mound +called by the natives Cnwc y Crogwydd, or Gallows Tump. + +Amongst the privileges peculiar to this lordship was the patronage of +the British Bards, and the disposal of a much-prized silver harp, which +was treasured in the ancient abbey of St. Dogmaels, near Cardigan. + +Standing upon a gentle declivity overlooking the town and bay, Newport +Castle owes its origin to William, son of Martin de Turribus, the +conqueror of Kemaes. The date of its erection appears to have been about +the close of the eleventh century, but the castle was probably altered +or enlarged by subsequent rulers. + +In Queen Elizabeth's time that curious antiquary George Owen paid a +visit to Newport Castle, in which he noticed 'faire and lardg Roomes'; +moreover, he tells us the place 'was moatid with a clear Springe of +swete running Water, out of whiche, after it had pleasured the Eye in +that capacitie, by a sluice it was let foorth to drive the myll, called +the Castle myll, adjoininge the sayd moate.' + +Of this lordly structure the entrance archway, flanked by two noble +crenellated towers, are the best preserved features; but extensive ruins +of walls and circular bastions, encompassed by the half-obliterated +moat, may still be traced upon its western side. + +Nestling beneath the castle, on the outskirts of the town, stands the +handsome parish church of St. Byrnach. The original edifice is said to +have been erected by the builder of Newport Castle, but the present +Decorated structure has superseded a building of later date that was the +very epitome of ugliness. Within the church stands a very early font, +probably the original one of Norman times. Of the finely wrought and +gilded rood-screen it is said once to have possessed, not a vestige has +been preserved. + +St. Byrnach, the patron saint of Newport Church, was an Irishman by +birth, and a contemporary of St. David. He appears to have been held in +high esteem throughout all this district, where many of the parish +churches are dedicated to his name. This holy man is supposed to have +led the life of a hermit, dividing his time between Buarth Byrnach, or +Byrnach's Fold, on the singular mountain called Carnedd Meibion Owen, +and the rocky recesses of Carn Englyn, the Angel's Peak, above Newport +town, a hill that derives its name from a tradition that St. Byrnach was +nourished by angels during his lonely sojourn there. + +But _revenons à nos moutons_. Newport was anciently a borough town, +having obtained its charter of incorporation as early as A.D. 1215. The +town also received the grant of a market from Sir Nicholas FitzMartin, +Lord of Kemaes, in the year 1278. This ancient document is still extant. +Henceforth Newport continued to grow and prosper, and in the sixteenth +century carried on extensive woollen manufactures. Upon the outbreak of +the 'sweating sickness,' the place suffered severely; its market was +discontinued, and many of the inhabitants fled to the more salubrious +air of Fishguard. + +Though its privileges have been much curtailed in modern times, the town +has still _nominally_ a municipal body, though the latter has neither +revenues to dispose of, nor functions to perform. Of recent years, +however, Newport has shown signs of re-awakening prosperity: and when +the long-talked-of railway line becomes a _fait accompli_, this pleasant +little market town will doubtless enter upon a new lease of life and +activity. + +At Parrog, where the Nevern stream embouches upon Newport Bay, we find a +watering-place in its infancy. Parrog is an attractive spot in a quiet +sort of way, and draws a fair sprinkling of holiday-makers from up the +country during the long days of summer. A few comfortable if +unpretentious lodging-houses offer decent accommodation, and cater in a +manner that leaves little to be desired where criticism is disarmed by +lusty appetites, bred of long hours spent in the brine-laden air. The +neighbourhood, too, is pleasantly diversified, and contains many +secluded nooks affording charming rural rambles. + +But to return to Newport. At the farther end of the town, after passing +the Llwyngwair Arms, we turn down a lane in the direction of the river, +and in a couple of hundred paces descry a cromlech standing amidst an +adjacent meadow. Though smaller than many others in the county, this +cromlech is in a good state of preservation, and, as may be seen in the +sketch at the end of the chapter, possesses an uncommonly massive +capstone. + +Retracing our steps to the highroad, we then jog pleasantly along +beneath the welcome shade of an avenue of trees. Just beyond Pont +Clydach, we enter the grounds of Llwyngwair by a meadow path that winds +amidst delightful groves, where oak, beech, and ash shelter a wealth of +tangled undergrowth. + +Crossing a couple of fat grazing meadows, decked with hemlock and +fragrant meadowsweet, we find ourselves on the brink of the Nevern +Brook, a genuine Welsh streamlet that rushes briskly onward in deep +brown pools and broken, shingly reaches-- + + 'With here and there a lusty trout. + And here and there a grayling.' + +This Nevern stream rises far away on the slopes of Fryn-y-Fawr, whence, +after pursuing a picturesque course below Pencelly forest, it finds its +way by many a 'crankling nook' to Nevern, where it is spanned by a +graceful old stone bridge, whose buttresses are shrouded in luxuriant +ivy. + +Over this same bridge we presently take our way, passing the lowly +village school-house, whence the sing-song iteration of young voices +salutes our ears through wide-open windows. In another minute we find +ourselves at the churchyard wicket, where we pause awhile to look about +us and take our bearings. + +The village of Nevern is situated in the richly-wooded glen of the Dûad, +or Nevern Brook, and is surrounded by some of the most charming scenery +in the county. The luxuriant groves of Llwyngwair afford shelter from +the strong sea winds, while the purple shoulders of Precelly sweep +upward in graceful folds to the lofty southern horizon. The picturesque +peak of Carn Englyn forms a prominent feature in the landscape; and, +separated from it by the deep, narrow vale of the Clydach, rises Carnedd +Meibion Owen, a rocky monticle that reminds one strongly of the Dartmoor +Tors. + +Time was, 'tis said, when this village of Nevern took precedence of its +rival neighbour Newport. In those early days Nevern was a borough town, +having its own portreeve with courts of government, and eighteen +'burgages' to manage its affairs. Above the townlet rose the protecting +walls of Llanhyvor Castle, a fortalice long regarded, so to speak, as a +precious gem in the diadem of every South Wallian prince. A steep grassy +knoll alone marks the site where this important castle stood. + +But it is time to look at Nevern Church. Dedicated to St. Byrnach, this +ancient structure presents, with its gray walls peeping amidst masses of +dark foliage, a picturesque and venerable appearance. The western tower, +though of no great height, is of vast breadth and substance, extending +to the full width of the church, and having a projecting stair-turret +upon its northern side. In this tower hangs a peal of six very musical +bells. + +[Illustration: TREWERN CHAPEL & BYRNACHS CROSS. NEVERN.] + +Approaching the south porch, we pass beneath a dense avenue of ancient +yews, which even at noontide cast a gloomy shade around. Though lacking +aisles, the church has shallow transepts, that on the north being called +the Glasdwr Chapel, while the south transept is appropriated to the use +of Trewern, an old mansion in the vicinity. This Trewern Chapel has a +solidly groined stone ceiling and elegantly proportioned windows, with a +projecting turret for the stairway, leading to an upper chamber, as +depicted in the adjoining sketch. + +Upon either side the chancel is a sort of shallow bay, lighted by a +narrow pointed window, a characteristic feature of Pembrokeshire +churches. The sacred edifice is provided with a pair of silver chalices +dated respectively 1696 and 1733, the gifts of former parishioners. + +Near the south-east angle of the Trewern Chapel rises the ancient Celtic +cross that figures conspicuously in our sketch. This curious monument +goes by the name of St. Byrnach's Stone. It stands upwards of 10 feet in +height, and is overlaid with the interlacing ornament peculiar to these +structures. So boldly and deeply are the patterns incised, as to be +little the worse for ten centuries of wind and weather, the hoary +lichens that cling to the rugged surface of the monolith serving but to +enhance its venerable aspect. + +Anent this ancient stone, there is a quaint tradition which tells how, +in olden times, the cuckoo was wont to first sound his note in this +locality on the day of the patron saint, April 7. + +'I might well here omit,' says George Owen, 'an old report as yet fresh +of this odious bird, that in the old world the parish priest of this +church would not begin Mass until the bird--called the citizen's +ambassador--had first appeared, and began her note on a stone called St. +Byrnach's Stone, being curiously wrought with sundry sort of knots, +standing upright in the churchyard of this parish; and one year staying +very long, and the priest and the people expecting her accustomed coming +(for I account this bird of the feminine gender), came at last, lighting +on the said stone--her accustomed preaching-place--and being scarce able +once to sound the note, presently fell dead.' + +It is somewhat reassuring to be told by the same authority that 'this +vulgar tale, although it concerns in some sort church matters, you may +either believe or not without peril of damnation.' + +Quitting the pleasant precincts of the church, we pursue a crooked lane +that skirts the green mounds of the 'castell,' and, turning thence past +a solitary thatched cottage, make our way along a hollow tree-shaded +pathway. Keeping a sharp look-out upon every side, we presently espy the +object of our search, the form of a cross, half obliterated by ivy +sprays and tufts of rushy grass, being seen rudely graven upon the high +sandstone bank by the lane side; while a sort of hollow kneeling-place +can be distinguished in the rock at the bottom of the cross. + +[Illustration: PILGRIM'S CROSS AT NEVERN.] + +For we are now upon the line of an ancient pilgrims' way, whose course +is marked by well-worn tracks in the soft red sandy rock; and this +solitary cross calls up visions of the mediæval wayfarer pausing upon +his journey to St. David's Shrine, to invoke before Croes Byrnach the +benediction of that influential saint. We are at some pains (owing to +the exuberant undergrowth) to obtain a sketch of this interesting +object, for, so far as we are aware, no other cross like this is to be +found throughout the length and breadth of Wales. + +In an out-of-the-way locality about two miles north of Nevern stands a +farmhouse called Trellyfan, _anglicè_ Toadstown. The origin of this +singular name is explained by the following story, narrated by no less +an authority than the famous Giraldus Cambrensis. + +One day in the course of his travels Giraldus fell in with an +exceedingly tall young man, who, owing to the length of his limbs, was +known as Sitsyllt of the Long Legs. The career of this ill-starred +individual was cut short in a strange and tragic manner, the unhappy +Sitsyllt being worried to death by _toads_, in spite of the fact that +his friends had very considerately hung him up in a sack, to save him +from the molestations of these malignant reptiles! + +[Illustration: THE TOAD OF TRELLYFAN.] + +As a memento of this incident, the marble effigy of a toad was built +into a chimney-piece at Trellyfan, where it was treasured for many +generations. The toad was afterwards cut away and removed from its place +in the farmhouse, but eventually came into the possession of its present +owner, a resident at Haverfordwest, by whose courtesy we are enabled to +give a sketch of this venerable relic. The toad in question is carved in +a dark-green veined marble, about as large as the palm of a woman's +hand, and is reputed to be the work of an Italian artist. + +Retracing our steps to Nevern, we call a halt at the Trewern Arms, a +modest hostelry so near the stream that its waters play a pleasant +accompaniment during the course of our homely meal. Then, with energies +recruited, we plunge into a shadowy woodland path that leads to +Pont-y-Baldwyn, a bridge that spans the rippling stream at a point +where, according to tradition, Archbishop Baldwyn preached the crusade +in company with Giraldus Cambrensis. From Pont-y-Baldwyn we follow a +farm road that leads us to Hênllys, a place memorable in Pembrokeshire +annals as the birthplace of that industrious chronicler and local +antiquary, George Owen of Hênllys. Of his curious and fascinating work +entitled 'The Description of Penbrokshire,' we have largely availed +ourselves throughout these present pages. George Owen appears to have +come of a stout old country stock. His father is said to have died a +centenarian, after begetting a family of some twenty children. Both +George Owen and his father before him held the ancient and honourable +office of Lord of Kemaes. + +Taking leave of this historical spot, we now drop into a hollow bowery +lane that hugs the course of the Dûad Stream, and passes through the +rough intricate country known as Pencelly Forest, where in olden times +the lord of the manor claimed right of pannage for hogs, with the wild +honey and sparhawks found in the forest. Our route now leads near +Court, where Martin de Turribus, the conqueror of Kemaes, had a lordly +dwelling, which, according to George Owen, 'seemeth to have been a house +both of account and strengthe.' + +A short half-hour later we find ourselves pacing the single 'street' of +Eglwys-Erw, a picturesque village said to derive its name from the +church having been built upon a plot of land measuring an acre. Fenton, +on the other hand, attributes the origin of the name to a certain St. +Erw, whose chapel, containing the tomb of the patron saint, used to +stand in a corner of the churchyard. In olden times the peasant folk +were averse to being buried in this chapel, owing to the prevalent +superstition that their bodies were liable to be mysteriously ejected at +dead of night, because, forsooth, St. Erw would brook no bedfellow! + +Passing on between the neat, whitewashed cottages, we come to Sergeants' +Inn, whose bow-windowed front stands near the upper end of the village. +The somewhat unusual title of this hostelry is derived from the fact +that, in earlier days, it was customary for the gentlemen of the Bar +when 'on circuit' to foregather here; and the building next the inn is +still called the Sessions House. At Sergeants' Inn is to be seen a small +chest-lid, incised with the rather enigmatical legend: I.H.S, PRESTAT +EZZE PROMETHEVS QUAM EPIMETHEUM, 1603. + +Eglwys-Erw Church is soon disposed of; for it has been completely +modernized, and bereft of any noteworthy features it may formerly have +contained. + +We now approach the confines of the parish of Eglwys-wen, or +Whitechurch; a parish where adders are commonly reputed to be, like +snakes in Iceland, absolutely unknown. + +There is a curious tradition anent the yokels of Whitechurch parish. +Says our trusty friend George Owen, 'In ancient times in this parish the +Meanest and simplest Sort of people, yea the plain ploughmen, were +Skillful at chess play; they never being dwelling out of their Parish, +but unlitterate, and brought up at the plough and Harrow altogether.' +One would be curious to learn how it came to pass that these simple +folk, dwelling in this remote Welsh parish, acquired such an +unlooked-for reputation. + +But the day is waxing old, and it is still a far cry to our night's +bivouac at Newport. So, putting the best foot foremost, we speed along +the highroad for a couple of miles or so, until, near a huge old +earthwork ycleped Castell Mawr, we diverge to the left, cross a pretty +streamlet, and get a direction from a passer-by to the famous cromlech +at Pentre-Evan. + +[Illustration: PENTRE EVAN.] + +Standing in an open field, on the northern slope of the strange-looking +hill called Carnedd Meibion Owen, this wonderful structure is +undoubtedly the finest cromlech to be found in the Principality. + +The gigantic capstone that forms the roof measures some 16 feet in +length, by half as much across; its longer axis lying, roughly speaking, +north and south. Beneath it stand four upright stones, tall enough to +permit of a horseman passing beneath the cromlech. A closer inspection +shows that two only of these standing stones support the weight of the +capstone; and their upper ends, being shaped like a narrow wedge, appear +pointed when seen from the position whence our sketch was taken. + +This noble relic of the prehistoric past has, under the Ancient +Monuments Protection Act, been enclosed within a tall iron fence, which, +if not exactly a pleasing feature in itself, will doubtless preserve the +cromlech from further abuse and injury. + +Soft white mists are stealing athwart the vale of Nevern, and clinging +around the skirts of the lower foot-hills, as we wend our way back to +quarters at Newport town. Glancing in the direction whence we have come, +the cloud-wreaths gathered around the shoulders of Precelly glow crimson +under the rays of the declining sun, as he sinks into the pallid sea +away beyond Dinas Head; and by the time we arrive at our _rendezvous_, +Darkness has spread her wings o'er the dusky landscape. + + * * * * * + +The next morning sees us early under way, and well on the road to +Kilgerran, ere the sun has climbed high enough to make matters +unpleasantly warm for the wayfarer. Beyond Nevern we pass near the +lonely deserted chapel of Bayvil, and, after a long spell of steady +collar-work, get some fine vistas of varied landscape near the old +grass-grown barrows called Crugau Kemaes. + +At the crossways farther on we are a matter of 500 feet above the sea, +with Monington village on our left, and the church and ruined castle of +Llantood away to the right. Then, as we near Kilgerran, we notice an old +boundary-stone under the hedgerow, bearing a few half-obliterated lines +anathematizing him who should venture to remove this landmark, the +original purpose of which has probably long since been forgotten. + +Passing under a railway arch, we soon descry Kilgerran Church, standing +on the brink of a narrow ravine that opens towards the Teivy. St. +Llawddog, from whom this church inherits its euphonious patronymic, +appears to have been a saint of some local celebrity, for his name crops +up at more than one place in the immediate neighbourhood. + +With the exception of its gray old tower, Kilgerran Church has been +entirely rebuilt, and calls for no particular notice. In the graveyard +stands a venerable monolith, much older than the church itself. The +weathered surface of the stone is scored with those Ogham characters, +so fascinating to the antiquarian mind; these hieroglyphics have been +deciphered as follows: TRENGUSSI FILI HIC JACIT. Unfortunately, a large +portion of the _maenhir_ is sunk below the level of the ground, thus +rendering a thorough examination of its surface impracticable. + +To eyes fresh from the beauties of Nevern, the long, rambling street of +Kilgerran offers anything but an inviting appearance, being flanked by +meagre unkempt dwellings, with but one or two cottages of more antique +mould in the older portion of the village. + +Despite the humble, not to say squalid, aspect of the place, there was a +time when Kilgerran held a position of no small consequence. A borough +town, governed by portreeve, aldermen and burgesses, its 'court-leet' +and 'view of frankpledge' held their annual meetings at Kilgerran; while +many another time-honoured privilege bore witness to a state of things +that has long since passed away. + +In those piping times, it was customary for each newly-elected burgess +to prove his fitness for office by draining _at one draught_ a horn of +strong Welsh ale; the Corporation horn used on such occasions holding +fully a pint and a half of liquor! + +We now make our way to the castle ruins, which occupy the brow of a +lofty cliff overhanging the deep gorge of the Teivy. The existing +remains of Kilgerran Castle consist of two massive round towers, +separating the outer from the inner bailey, with considerable fragments +of the gate-house. + +The entire fabric is plain, and very massively constructed, showing +little or no trace of ornamentation; the few doorways and windows that +remain being arched in a primitive fashion, without the use of the +customary keystone. A rough stone wall encircles the precipitous scarp +next the river, a portion of which fell down suddenly many years ago, +having been undermined by the excavations of the quarry-men. + +Kilgerran Castle appears to have been founded at a very remote period, +though the existing structure is probably not older than the beginning +of the thirteenth century. In Powell's 'History of Cambria,' we read +how, Henry I. having granted to Strongbow the lands of Cadwgan ap +Blethyn, the great Earl' builded a faire castel at a place callyd +Dyngeraint, where Roger Montgomerie had begonne a castel before tyme.' +Its subsequent history is unimportant, and Kilgerran Castle has at last +succumbed to the shocks of time and the more devastating hand of man, +who appears to have regarded its ancient walls in the light of a +convenient quarry. + +Looking out across the deep vale of Teivy, we can see the mansion of +Coedmore amidst its ensheltering woodlands. It is said that, in olden +times, a fishing-net was stretched athwart the river just below the +mansion, a line being attached to the net and connected to a bell, which +rang in the house to give notice to the inmates when a catch of salmon +had been effected. + +The clear, unsullied waters of the Teivy, have ever been a favourite +haunt of the king of fishes. Giraldus Cambrensis asserts that 'The noble +river Teivy abounds, more than any river of Wales, with the finest +Salmons; and it has a productive fishery near Kilgerran.' + +[Illustration: A TEIVYSIDE CORACLE.] + +That curious craft the ancient British coracle is a familiar object to +all dwellers on Teivyside, where from days immemorial it has been +employed by the fisher folk in the pursuit of their time-honoured +calling. + +The coracle, or _corwg_ as it is called in Wales, is somewhat of an oval +shape, but is raised high and flattened at the bows. The framework +consists of split rods forming a sort of basket-work, over which tarred +canvas is stretched, though in olden times cowhide was used for this +purpose; hence the ancient coracle weighed considerably more than the +modern one, and this explains the old Welsh adage, _Llwyth gwr ci Gorwg_ +(A man's load is his coracle). The seat is a stout ash-plank, and +through it a loop or sling is twisted by which the owner carries his +coracle upon his back, the wooden rails with which the seat is provided +acting as a basket to carry the fish. The method of carrying the little +craft is shown in the sketch at head of the present chapter. + +Notwithstanding its great breadth of beam, it is by no means easy for a +novice to propel the coracle by means of its single paddle; indeed, his +efforts are likely to be brought to an untimely end by a plunge in the +cold, clear depths of the Teivy. + +[Illustration: KILGERRAN FERRY.] + +After this digression, we will now take a stroll by Teivyside; +descending from the village by a steep pathway beside some humble +cottages and heaps of quarry refuse. As a result of certain ancient +privileges, the townsfolk have gradually converted this portion of the +left bank of the Teivy into a succession of slate quarries, whose ragged +talus of _débris_ encumbers the water's edge; a sorry substitute for the +luxuriant groves that greet the eye wherever Nature has been allowed +fair play. + +Pursuing this rough track for about a furlong, we turn to the +right-about, and obtain a fine view of the castle lording it above a +pretty reach of the river; and thence pursue a path that hugs the brink +of the stream. After passing the last and deepest of the slate-mines, +which has been carried far below the river-bed, we enjoy a still more +charming glimpse of the grand old ruins enfolded amongst richly wooded +hills, all mirrored in an unruffled sheet of water at a point where the +ferry-boat lies moored, beside the grassy bank. + +[Illustration: KILGERRAN CASTLE FROM THE TEIVY.] + +Thenceforward our footpath meanders amidst the magnificent groves of +oak, beech and ash, that adorn the estate of Castle Malgwyn; their +graceful forms reflected in the still, dark reaches of the placid Teivy, +which hereabouts affords some of the finest river scenery to be found in +all wild Wales. + +[Illustration: LLECHRHYD BRIDGE.] + +Onwards to Llechrhyd Bridge, whose ivy-mantled arches, backed by the +lodge and woodlands of the park, form a 'likely' subject for the +artist's pencil. + +[Illustration: CASTLE MALGWYN.] + +The village, with its snug waterside inn beloved of anglers, has a very +seductive air about it; but we must not linger here, for these +transpontine lands lie without the bounds of Pembrokeshire, and are +therefore _taboo_ to us. So, striking away in the direction of the +south, we traverse the spacious demesne of Castle Malgwyn, getting a +peep of the mansion set amidst dark, umbrageous woodlands; our approach +causing the startled bunnies to skirmish away helter-skelter into the +bracken coverts as we pass. + +The return route to Kilgerran lies through a pleasant vale, with young +oak-coppices upon the one hand, and a marshy reed-grown watercourse upon +the other. + + * * * * * + +Setting forth by a different route upon the morrow's morn, a row +downstream from Kilgerran introduces us to some charmingly diversified +reaches of the swift-flowing Teivy. After passing below the wooded +slopes of Coedmore, our little craft threads the rocky channel as it +twists, now this way, now that, through the broken undulating country, +affording ever some fresh variation of the lovely changing landscape, to +which the castle ruins form an imposing centre. + +Presently we emerge upon broad tidal flats, where groups of cattle are +browsing amidst the lush sedgy herbage. Shooting under Cardigan Bridge, +we open out that final reach of the river where, in the words of George +Owen, 'Teivy saluteth St. Dogmells, as it passeth to the sea.' + +About a mile distant from the county-town of Cardigan, but on the +Pembrokeshire side of the river, stands the before-mentioned village of +St. Dogmaels. The little place is perched upon a rather steep declivity, +its comely dwellings clambering up the slope, so that, from the top of +the village, one's eye follows the course of the Teivy to the +foam-fringed shores of Cardigan Bay, and the headland called Pen-Kemaes. + +Here the cottage gardens are gay with heliotrope, fuchsias and +hydrangea, which brave the winter out in the more sheltered corners; +while the full-rigged flagstaffs that rise amidst the garden plots +bespeak the nautical proclivities of the residents. + +This village derives its name from the ancient Welsh monastery of St. +Dogmaels, which stood about a mile away at a place still bearing the +name of Yr Hên Mynachlog (the Old Monastery). Of this venerable +structure, founded by Robert de Turribus, but scanty traces now remain, +in the shape of a few ivy-mantled walls pierced with Gothic arches, +whose crumbling stones retain the ball-flower ornamentation of the +Decorated period. The neighbouring parish church has, alas! been swept +and garnished by iconoclastic hands, which have ruthlessly bereft the +fabric of every feature of interest. + +Our investigations completed, we betake ourselves to the Cardigan +terminus, and travel thence over the branch line of the Great Western +Railway as far as Crymmych-Arms Station. Beyond Kilgerran the line +traverses some pretty furze-clad dingles, and, as we approach our +destination, mounts in short, sharp curves towards the high ground that +forms the watershed of northern Pembrokeshire. + +From the summit level, some 700 feet above the sea, we command a noble +prospect of the Precelly range, and the more remote hills about Newport +Bay and Fishguard; the effect being heightened by the sunset glow, while +a brilliant rainbow spans the purple clouds that brood over the loftier +crests of the distant mountains. + +At Crymmych we avail ourselves of such accommodation as the wayside inn +affords, intending to start away bright and early upon the morrow's +explorations. + +[Illustration: CROMLECH AT NEWPORT.] + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +A RAMBLE OVER PRECELLY HILLS, TO THE SOURCES OF THE CLEDDAU. + + +The broad grassy slopes of Fryn-y-Fawr, (or Vrenny Vawr, as they +pronounce it), a big isolated hill to the east of Crymmych-Arms, afford +a pleasant morning's stroll, with a widespreading outlook at the end of +it. The mountain road by which we approach the monticle follows the +course of the ancient trackway called Fordd-Fleming, which we presently +exchange for the open, heathery hillside; going as we please for the +tall green tumulus that marks the summit. + +Save towards the west, where the higher Precelly range intercepts the +view, the prospect is wide and unrestricted, comprising nearly the whole +of Pembrokeshire, with its setting of silvery sea, and a vast stretch of +South Wales, including the peninsula of Gower; while the northern +horizon is bounded by the remote Northwallian hills, amongst which, if +the day be clear, the peak of Snowdon may possibly be distinguished. + +Descending by the opposite end of the hill, we pass a small homestead, +whose name indicates that the source of the Nevern River is near at +hand. + +Somewhere within the flanks of Fryn-y-Fawr, there lies hid (according to +the tradition of the countryside) a leaden casket packed full with +untold gold. The _genius loci_ that guards this mysterious treasure +takes the form of a violent tempest, which bursts, in thunder and +lightning, around the head of the man who is foolhardy enough to seek to +possess himself of the forbidden prize. + +Returning to Crymmych-Arms, we settle up accounts with mine hostess--a +simple process in these parts, often arranged without the formality of a +'bill,'--and set forth anew upon our wanderings. The old trackway again +forms our route, leading us past the site of a rude monument called +Croes Mihangel, and thence across the heather-clad shoulders of Foel +Trigarn, the easternmost spur of Precelly, which, as its name implies, +is crowned with three cairns, surrounded by the stony ramparts of an +ancient British stronghold. + +[Illustration: THE SKIRTS OF PRECELLY.] + +The mountain vale opening out upon our left holds the springs of the +eastern Cleddau, a stream that, after forming for some miles the +county-boundary, passes below picturesque Llawhaden, and flows onwards +amidst the rich woodlands of Slebech and Picton Castle, to merge in the +broad, tidal waters of Milford Haven. + +For the next few miles we enjoy a breezy tramp athwart the wild, +uncultivated shoulders of Precelly--'Parcilly the Proud,' to use old +Drayton's phrase. In his own quaint fashion, George Owen thus describes +these famous hills: 'The chiefest and principall mountaine of this shire +is Percellye, which is a long ridge or rancke of mountaines runninge +East and West; beginninge above Penkellyvore, where the first mounte of +highe land thereof is called Moel Eryr, and so passinge Eastward to +Comkerwyn (being the highest parte of yt), runneth East to Moel Trygarn +and to Llanvirnach.' + +So far George Owen. Meanwhile we trudge onward across the springy turf, +avoiding here a stretch of dusky bogland feathered with white tufts of +cotton-grass, yonder a huge pile of weather-stained boulders, riven and +tossed asunder by the tempests of ten thousand winters. One of these +rugged cairns is known as King Arthur's Grave; another bears a Welsh +name signifying the 'rocks of the horsemen': indeed, every feature of +the landscape has its story or legend for the imaginative Cymro. + +Rounding the head of a lonely glen, a rough but sufficiently easy ascent +lands us beside the cairn that marks the summit of Foel Cwm Cerwyn, the +loftiest peak of Precelly, and the highest ground in all broad +Pembrokeshire. 'This mountaine,' says George Owen, 'is so highe and +farre mountid into the ayre that, when the countrey about is faire and +cleere, the toppe thereof wilbe hidden in a cloude, which of the +inhabitantes is taken a sure signe of raigne to follow shortelie, +whereof grewe this proverbe: + + '"When Percellye weareth a hatte, + All Penbrokeshire shall weete of that."' + +Standing well apart, and removed from the mass of loftier South Welsh +hills, the view from Precelly top is both extensive and interesting. +Near hand, one's gaze wanders across a vast expanse of rather +monotonous, treeless landscape, until the attention is arrested by the +lake-like reaches of Milford Haven, spreading like crooked fingers far +into the heart of the land. + +South and west the sea encompasses all, with Gower lying far away upon +the Bristol Channel, and perhaps a faint outline of the cliffs of Devon +verging the remote horizon. The isolated hills overlooking St. Davids +are easily identified, flanked by a broad stretch of St. Bride's Bay, +and its group of guardian islets. Strumble Head thrusts its tempest-torn +crags seawards into Cardigan Bay, whose coast-line trends away league +upon league with infinite gradation to where, softened by the humid, +brine-laden atmosphere, + + 'The gray, cloud-cradled mountains spread afar.' + +Newport Bay, lying under the lee of Dinas Head, looks as though one +might cast a stone into its calm waters; and upon turning our gaze +inland, the eye loses itself amidst the many-folding hills, as they rise +in soft undulations to the dusky highlands of Glamorganshire. + +We now push on along the crest of the moorland, striking once more into +the course of the so-called Flemings' Way. After the manner of most +early roads, this ancient trackway runs athwart the open highlands, +avoiding the hollow places; and although much of it has been obliterated +by the ploughshare, and the gradual advance of cultivation, its course +may still be traced in the less-frequented localities, as it wends its +way up country from the site of old Menapia towards the county-town of +Carmarthen. + +An ancient warrant of Sir Nicholas Martin, referring to the use of this +old mountain road by the Flemish colony, observes: 'And well they might +make this unusual waie for their passage, for that, passinge alonge the +toppe of the highest hill, they might the better descrie the pryvie +ambushes of the Countrye people, which might in streightes and woodds +annoy them.' + +At a place appropriately called the Pass of the Winds, we fall in with +the main road as it crosses the hills from Haverfordwest to Cardigan. +This we descend for a matter of half a mile, passing across a heathery +upland ycleped the Hill of the Unstrung-Bows, until we come to Tafarn +Bwlch, a humble wayside alehouse some thousand feet or so above +sea-level. + +Looking out across a broad brown reach of moorland, the eye detects a +sort of rude stone causeway, curving amidst rush-grass and scattered +peat-hags. This is known as Bedd-yr-Avangc, or the Beaver's Grave; _à +propos_ of which it is worthy of note that Giraldus Cambrensis mentions +the beaver as abounding in his day on Teivyside, while more than one +venerable legend locates this amphibious quadruped in the _llyns_ and +streams throughout wild Wales. + +Arrived at Tafarn Bwlch, we call for such cheer as the lowly inn can +supply; but the bill of fare proves somewhat scanty, for, in the words +of the great lexicographer, 'of provisions its negative catalogue is +very copious.' The goodwife, however, rises to the occasion, and regales +us with a repast such as appetites sharpened by lusty mountain air make +short enough work of. Then we burn incense to the drowsy god in a nook +of the chimney-place, where a peat-fire glows untended upon the ample +hearth. + +Starting forth again like giants refreshed, we breast the stony ascent +that leads to the pass amidst a sharp squall of wind and rain, which +drags in a darkening veil athwart the lonesome landscape, blotting now +this, now that familiar landmark from the view. + +From the head of the pass we descend into the vale of the infant +Syvynvy, rounding the broad green slopes of the Eagles' Hill, the +westernmost buttress of the Precelly range. At the crossways we bear to +the left, with the disused windmill of the slate quarries showing +conspicuously upon a neighbouring hill. + +Pushing on towards Maenclochog, we pass near the defunct Rosebush +Station, on the line of the Maenclochog railway, which at present is +undergoing in leisurely fashion a process of reconstruction. Indeed, in +the matter of slowness, the builders of this line may fairly claim to +have 'broken the record,' for 'tis whispered that seventeen years' work +has added little more than four miles to the length of the railway! + +Be that as it may, we now make our entry into the village of +Maenclochog, a bleak-looking place enough, where the storm-rent trees +beside the roadway attest the violence of the winter gales that sweep +across these bare, lofty uplands. + +Towards the farther end of the village, at a widening of the ways, +stands the parish church, a structure of no great antiquity, dedicated +to St. Mary. The clergyman, who has ministered here for upwards of +thirty years, now courteously introduces us to the well-tended interior, +the most noteworthy feature of which is a plain old font, with a +singular cup-shaped recess upon its eastern face, the purpose of which +we are quite at a loss to conjecture. + +St. Mary's Church has no tower, but at the western end rises a low +turret containing a musical peal of bells. It is a remarkable fact, +indeed, that throughout this mountain district church towers are +conspicuous by their absence; whereas, in the English country farther +south, the tall slender bell-tower usually forms one of the most +noticeable features of the parish church. + +A marble cross used, we are informed, to adorn the chancel gable; but +this has long since been removed to the limbo of things forgotten. + +In olden times, it was customary at Maenclochog to draw the water for +baptism from St. Mary's Well, a natural spring that rises just without +the village. Near to this well are some tumbled stones, that once +supported a large horizontal slab. Tradition tells that this stone, when +struck, gave forth a loud ringing sound, which did not cease until the +water from the holy well had been brought into the church. Hence the +name of Maenclochog, which, being interpreted, signifies the village of +the 'ringing rock.' It is much to be regretted that this curious object +was destroyed many years ago, because, forsooth, the sound thereof was +supposed to frighten passing horses! + +At the foot of the village stands a large, rambling inn, backed by the +singularly artificial-looking rocks known as 'the Castle,' whence the +house takes its title. In a country where lodgings of any sort are so +few and far between, the wayfarer may do worse than pitch his camp for a +night in these unassuming quarters. + +The way to Llandilo leads us through a hollow dingle, where a brawling +trout-stream rushes along beneath cool, shadowy beech woods: while every +here and there a glimpse of the purple hills adds variety to the scene. + +Passing by Temple-Druid, the site of a now destroyed cromlech, we arrive +at Llandilo, where we search in vain for the church: for this +sparsely-peopled parish has been merged into that of Maenclochog, in +consequence of which the sacred edifice has been allowed to fall into +disrepair, and is now represented by a few crumbling walls smothered in +rank, untended ivy. + +Crossing the stone stile that gives access to the churchyard, we espy +upon its southern side a slab of greenstone bearing, in rudely-chased +letters, the inscription: COIMAGNI FILI CAVETI. A similar stone near the +east end of the ruined chancel has also its superscription, which reads: +ANDAGELLI IACIT; with a fainter line, possibly FILI CNOI, below; and +over all a cross with tridented terminations. + +But the pride of the place is 'St. Teilo's skull,' which is treasured at +the adjacent farmhouse. This curious relic was formerly held in high +esteem as a cure for all manner of sickness, water being drawn from the +saint's well, and drunk out of the skull. The virtue of the draught was +supposed to consist in its being administered by the eldest son of the +house of Melchior, then, as now, the hereditary custodian of St. Teilo's +skull. Onwards to Llangolman, the country is crumpled up into a +succession of hills and narrow, rocky dingles, whereby the numerous +streamlets that enliven this locality find an outlet from the foot-hills +of Precelly. In one of these dingles is St. Teilo's Well, a wayside +spring frequented by that saint in days of yore. + +Llangolman Church, perched on its isolated monticle, presents a sorry +spectacle of desecration and decay; its windows battered and broken, its +roof open to the vault of heaven, while the rusty bell hangs cracked and +useless in the dilapidated turret. + +As we approach Monachlogddu, the landscape assumes a thoroughly Welsh +appearance. A clear trout-stream, that comes rippling and dancing down +the glen from the dark brown ridge of the moorlands, is here put to turn +the wheel of a little flannel-mill. In response to our request, the +goodman describes in broken English the simple processes of manufacture, +and explains the movements of his archaic machinery. Then, after a +glance at the lowly parish church, dedicated to St. Dogmael, we bid +adieu to the village of the Black Monastery, and take to the road again. + +The neighbouring village of Llanvirnach is said to derive its name from +the following circumstance. When the good St. Byrnach was making his +pilgrimage through this portion of the country, he could at first obtain +no better quarters than a cowshed; thus, as the story goes, arose the +name of Llanbeudy, the Church of the Cowhouse. The next day the saint +fared even worse, for, coming to Cilmaenllwyd, he was obliged, for lack +of better accommodation, to repose beneath the gray cromlech that gives +the place its name. The third night, however, St. Byrnach came to a +place where he was accorded a kindly welcome, and provided with a +comfortable night's lodging. Overcome with gratitude for this hospitable +reception, St. Byrnach declared the place should ever after bear his own +name; and hence it is called to this day Llanvirnach, or the Church of +St. Byrnach. + +But to return to Maenclochog. Retracing our steps through the village, +we bear away to the left, and presently come to a roadside spring called +St. Byrnach's Well, a resort of that ubiquitous saint. + +Our route now leads past Poll-tax Inn, and follows the course of the Via +Julia, that ancient highway by which the Roman legions traversed this +wild, uncivilized territory, from Maridunum, the present town of +Carmarthen, to their remotest settlement at Menapia, on the shores of +Whitesand Bay. + +Diverging from the mountain road that marks the route of the Roman +highway, we turn aside into a cross-country lane, pass several cairns +and cromlechs, and presently come to Little Newcastle, a mean, unkempt +village, presenting few attractions for the wayfarer. + +At Little Newcastle was born a certain Bartholomew Roberts, who, about a +century ago, made some noise in the world as a successful filibuster. In +company with his fellow-countryman Howel Davies, (as big a rascal as +himself), this notorious freebooter sailed the high seas arrayed in +priceless silks and jewels galore--as pretty a pair of desperadoes as +ever hoisted the skull-and-crossbones flag, or graced the yardarm of a +man-o'-war. + +From Little Newcastle we make the best of our way to St. Dogwells, a +mite of a place tucked into an elbow of the stream, and overlooked upon +the north by a rock-strewn eminence called Castell Conyn. Through the +woods of Sealyham we pass on to Letterston; noting a curious piscina in +the church, and an effigy which long passed muster as that of St. +Leotard, its founder. + +Beyond the old chapel at Ford, where the Roman highway crossed the +river, the road winds through the heart of the gorge amidst a wealth of +bracken and purple heather; the huge form of Trefgarn Rock towering high +aloft on our right. With the brawling Cleddau, half hidden by +copsewoods, tumbling along through the hollow of the glen, the whole +forms as romantic a bit of scenery as any to be found in the county. + +At the adjacent village of Trefgarn, that great Welsh patriot and +freelance, the famous Owen Glyndwr, is said to have first seen the +light; an event that took place about the middle of the fourteenth +century. Certain strange phenomena that were observed at the time of his +birth, were turned to full account by this enterprising adventurer; +hence Shakespeare, in his play of Henry IV.,' puts into the mouth of +Glyndwr the proud words: + + 'At my birth + The front of heav'n was full of fiery shapes: + The goats ran from the mountains, and the herds + Were strangely clamorous in the frighted fields: + These signs have marked me extraordinary, + And all the courses of my life do show + I am not in the roll of common men.' + +Alighting at Rudbaxton village, we step aside in order to visit the +parish church. Upon the south side of the chancel, a pair of flat +limestone arches open into what is known as the Howard Chapel, the +eastern wall of which supports a large, seventeenth-century monument, +commemorating various members of that honourable family. + +[Illustration: THE HOWARD MONUMENT AT RUDBAXTON.] + +The male and female figures beneath the arched recesses are represented +as nearly the full size of life, habited in the costume of the period, +and painted in a somewhat crude and barbaric manner. As may be seen in +our sketch, every figure save one bears a human skull in its hand, thus +recording in a suggestive way the decease of that individual. One +effigy alone is _minus_ this grim feature, as it represents the lady in +whose lifetime the monument was erected. + +The panel beneath the central group bears the inscription, 'To the +memory of James Howard of this Parish, Esq. who lyeth before this +monument, and departed this life the 29th day of November Ano 1668, Aged +35 years. Also the memory of Joanna, the Wife of James Howard, who +erected this monument for her Deare friends and children, with the +intent to Joyne partner to this Monument, and left this life....' + +The figure to the left represents George Howard, who died in 1665; those +upon the right being Thomas and Mary, son and daughter of the central +figures, who died, respectively, in 1682 and 1685. A sundial upon the +outer south wall of the Howard Chapel bears the initials J. H. and the +date 1665. + +Descending a hollow lane, we cross a stream and pass near the scanty +ruins of Flether Hill, the ancient abode of the Haywards, whose +tombstones we have seen in the church. Then, leaving the pleasant +grounds of Withybush away upon our left, we presently strike the main +road again at a place called Crowsnest, and thus approach the town of +Haverfordwest by its long, transpontine suburb of Prendergast. + +[Illustration: AT HAVERFORDWEST.] + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +ON AND OFF THE NARBERTH ROAD. LANGWM AND DAUGLEDDAU. + + +It is market day in Haverfordwest. The big travel-stained waggons of the +wholesale traders, drawn by sturdy large-limbed horses, trundle slowly +through the crowded streets of the old town; while the distinctive tones +of the 'broad Harfat talk' greet the ear upon every side. + +Wending our way down the steep High Street, we bear away to the right at +the bottom of the hill, and traverse one of the oldest quarters of the +town. Presently we descry a low-browed entrance opening upon the +footpath, the massive nail-studded door, with its quaint lion-head +knocker, being enframed by liberally-moulded jambs. Passing beneath this +ancient portal, we are admitted to an interior beautified by the rare +old oaken stairway shown in our sketch; this stairway gives access to +nicely panelled chambers, whose fireplaces retain their original blue +Dutch tiles, painted with scenes from Biblical history. + +[Illustration: OLD STAIRCASE AT HAVERFORDWEST.] + +To the rear of the dwelling-house stands a flour-mill of antiquated +type; yet driving, withal, a brisk trade in its green old age. A +well-trained old horse, the mainstay of the establishment, jogs round in +the mill and supplies the motive power. + +Stepping out to the rear, we find ourselves upon the riverside quay, +along which we now take our way. Groups of bulky stone warehouses flank +the grass-grown wharf, which presently opening out, reveals the Bristol +Trader, a little semi-nautical inn, with its trim bit of garden-ground +abloom with hollyhocks and nasturtiums; an old-time spot frequented by +waterside gossips, and fraught with vague echoes from that wide outer +world where men 'go down to the sea in ships.' + +Hence we push on past the ruined priory to the diminutive village of +Haroldstone, where some traces still exist of the ancient mansion that, +for three successive centuries, was the ancestral home of the Perrots, +one of the most notable old families of Pembrokeshire. + +[Illustration: UZMASTON.] + +_Vis-à-vis_ across the river Cleddau rises the parish church of +Uzmaston; a picturesque assemblage of roofs and gables, clustering +around a quaint old saddle-backed tower. Uzmaston Church has, within the +last few years, been rescued from decay, and conscientiously restored by +Mr. Lingen Barker, architect, of Hereford. + +Skirting a bend of the river, we trudge through the woods to Freystrop, +and enter upon a district pitted here and there with old mine-shafts. +Over the water lies Boulston, where hard by the brink of the stream +(perhaps a bowshot east from the desecrated church) rises a jumble of +ivy-clad ruins, backed by a tangled thicket of old forest trees. Here +lived the Wogans, a well-known family in days of yore, who adopted a +wyvern as their crest from the following tradition. + +Amidst the broad-woodlands that formerly extended around the ancestral +mansion, wild beasts of various kinds were supposed to roam at large. +In the remotest depths of the forest lurked the dreaded basilisk, a +formidable monster whose glance caused instant death to the ill-starred +wight upon whom its gaze might rest, but which perished itself if first +perceived by a man. + +At last a certain bold fellow determined to rid the countryside of this +objectionable beast. Causing himself to be shut up in a cask and rolled +into the forest, he peeped through the bung-hole, and presently spied +the basilisk without himself being seen. Thereupon the dreaded monster, +giving vent to an unearthly yell that could be heard for miles around, +fell down and perished upon the spot, so that the country-folk were no +longer troubled by the molestations of the basilisk. A dragon legend, +very similar to the above, is connected with the village of Mordiford in +Herefordshire. + +By-and-by, as we descend from the uplands, a broad reach of the tideway +opens out right before us, where the twin streams of Cleddau merge into +the widening Haven. Thus we enter the village of Langwm at its upper +end, escorted by a rabble of noisy, unkempt urchins who cumber the +narrow roadway. + +Here, in the very heart of southern Pembrokeshire, stranded like a human +jetsam upon one of the inmost recesses of Milford Haven, we find an +isolated community, whose speech and physiognomy alike proclaim their +Teutonic origin. Imagination conjures up those far-away times, when the +sturdy immigrants from over seas--ancestors of these hardy +fisher-folk--pushed their advance up the winding waterway, despite the +desperate onslaughts of the Britons, who, fighting for hearth and home, +'rolled on like the billows of a retiring tide with noise, fury, and +devastation, but on each retreat yielded ground to the invaders.' + +In their own thoroughgoing fashion, the newcomers set to work to +construct a chain of castles to guard their hard-won territory; and +thus, protected from the restless foe, grew up those peaceful villages +and smiling homesteads, surrounded by orchards, fields, and pasture +lands, that have earned for this portion of the county its title of the +Little England beyond Wales. + +But _revenons à nos moutons_, for it is time to look about us. + +A curious place is Langwm, and a singular race are the people that dwell +therein. Small 'butt-and-ben' cottages, some thatched, some slated, +others roofed with hideous corrugated iron, compose the major portion of +the village; which straggles down a narrow combe, whose lower reaches +open upon an oozy elbow of the river. + +[Illustration: LANGWM FISHWIVES.] + +The women, as a rule, are conspicuous by their absence; for they are for +the most part abroad, hawking fish and oysters up and down the country. +Clad in stout pea-jackets and warm blue homespun skirts, worn short for +travelling the rough country roads, these hard-working women seem to +belong to some alien race, as they elbow their way through the crowded +streets of Tenby or Haverfordwest. + +The Langwm people have, indeed, always kept very much to themselves, +discouraging alliances with outsiders; nor until recent years would they +even permit their girls to go out as domestic servants. In the old +unregenerate days, courtship and marriage were attended with certain +curious, primitive customs--customs which, to say the least, were 'more +honoured in the breach than the observance.' One way and another, this +singular people forms an interesting little community, which appears to +have preserved intact to the present day much of the manners and customs +of the early Flemish colonists. + +Langwm Church is dedicated to St. Hierom. The little edifice stands, as +its name implies, in a hollow combe near Milford Haven. To reach it we +cross a bit of rough unenclosed greensward, littered over with +oyster-shells, upon which, according to the local story, the village +itself is built. + +The interior of this church is enriched with some interesting Decorated +features; notably a canopied niche and piscina of unusual type, upon the +eastern wall of the north chapel, or transept. + +Under an ogee canopy, in the gable wall of the same chapel, lies the +effigy of a De la Roche (or Dolly Rotch in the vernacular), to whose +family this chapel formerly belonged. The figure is that of a Crusader, +clad in full armour and sword in hand; the face is both handsome and +expressive, and the head reposes upon a plumed helmet. The thong of the +boot, twisted around the leg, bears some resemblance to a serpent; and +hence this monument is pointed out as that of the founder of Roch +Castle, who, as an old story avers, met his death through the bite of a +'loathlie worme.' + +Near Langwm the twin Cleddaus merge into the broad bosom of the tideway; +becoming, as old George Owen says, 'both a salt sea of a myle broade and +xvi myles longue before they forsake their native Countrie, ... and then +by Curse of nature yeald themselves to the sea, the endinge of all +Rivers.' + +We now cross the ferry, and, after passing through Marteltewi, bear +away in a southerly direction _en route_ for Lawrenny. The latter is a +pleasant-looking village, with comely cottages concentrated around the +parish church of St. Caradoc, whose tall, ivy-mantled tower rises close +at hand, overshadowed by a grove of stately elms where the rooks are +making merry. + +To the rear of the church the ground slopes up to a boss of open land, +fringed with a thick growth of copsewood, and almost cut off from the +circumjacent country by two converging 'pills,' or tidal creeks. + +[Illustration: LAWRENNY CASTLE.] + +Pursuing a field-path that skirts the stream at the base of the +monticle, we stroll through the park-like demesne of Lawrenny Castle, a +handsome modern edifice, whose soaring turrets and battlements make a +brave show amidst the silvan scenery. + +[Illustration: BENTON CASTLE.] + +Making our way to a handful of cottages beside a neglected quay, we now +select a likely-looking craft, and pull across the Western Cleddau to +the ruins of Benton Castle; whose ivy-clad battlements scarcely overtop +the redundant oak woods, that come feathering down to the very brink of +the stream. + +Little remains of the fabric save the principal tower, the base of which +is circular in form, the upper works being corbelled out and fashioned +into an octagon. With the arched gateway, flanked by a portion of a +second drum-tower, these crumbling ruins form a picturesque group, whose +features are almost lost amidst the luxuriant foliage that runs riot +over all. + +Benton Castle appears never to have been more than a mere outpost, +planted to guard the passage of the Western Cleddau, and forming a link +in the chain of strongholds to guard this remote English settlement. +History has little to tell about its past, but the castle is reputed to +have been originally built by Bishop Beck. It was at one time surrounded +by an extensive deer park, a portion of the ancient estate of +Williamstown, which, as George Owen tells us, was sequestrated to the +Crown upon the attainder of Sir John Perrot. + +After groping about for some time, in vain endeavour to obtain a +satisfactory view, we at last secure a sketch of Benton Castle; and +then, recrossing the water, make the best of our way back again to +Lawrenny. + +Inns, good, bad or indifferent, appear to be an 'unknown quantity' in +this highly-respectable village; but an enterprising grocer rises to the +occasion, and plays the _rôle_ of Boniface as one to the manner born. + +Upon resuming our peregrinations, we set our course for Landshipping +Ferry; while the gathering clouds, brooding over the darkening +landscape, warn us to make ready against the 'useful trouble of the +rain.' With a sudden swirl the gale descends upon us, sweeping through +the straining tree-tops, and lashing up the waters of the creek into the +semblance of a miniature _Maelström_. + +Scudding for shelter to a rustic alehouse, we soon make ourselves at +home in the deep, oaken settle beside the chimney-corner; discussing the +day's adventures over a mug of home-brewed ale, while the fumes of the +'noxious weed' float upwards to the ripening flitches, that hang from +the smoke-begrimed rafters overhead. + +Half an hour later finds us once more underway, with the sunshine +blinking out again through the tail of the retreating storm, and the +raindrops glistening like diamonds on every bush and hedgerow: + + 'Sweet is sunshine through the rain, + All the moist leaves laugh amain; + Birds sing in the wood and lane + To see the storm go by, O! + + 'Overhead the lift grows blue, + Hill and valley smile anew; + Rainbows fill each drop of dew, + And a rainbow spans the sky, O!' + +Running us ashore near some cottages, at a picturesque nook of the +Haven, the ferryman now puts us in the way for Picton; which is reached +after a brisk twenty minutes' tramp through the leafy glades of a deep, +sequestered dingle. + +[Illustration: PICTON CASTLE.] + +It would be difficult to image anything more attractive than the +situation of Picton Castle. Crowning the brow of a gentle declivity, the +stately pile is sheltered from the north and east by groves of forest +trees, and mighty banks of rhododendrons; while upon its southern side a +beautiful expanse of the home-park rolls away, 'in emerald slopes of +sunny sward,' to a broad, land-locked reach of Milford Haven. + +In conjunction with the neighbouring estate of Slebech, Picton Park +comprises a vast extent of open, park-like land, the haunt of game and +wild-fowl; while the river front affords miles of woodland strolls, with +a charming variety of ever-changing prospects. What with boating and +fishing galore, not to mention an occasional meet of fox and otter +hounds, he must indeed be a fastidious sportsman who cannot find +recreation in this favoured locality. + +Picton Castle can boast a record unmatched in the annals of any other +Southwallian fortalice; for the place has never once been deserted, but +has always been occupied by those who can claim direct descent from the +original founder. + +It was in the days of William Rufus (when Arnulph the Norman handed over +the whole of the surrounding district to his trusty follower) that Sir +William de Picton erected the first castle, and gave his own name to his +newly-acquired possession. To his descendant, the good Sir John +Philipps, the town of Haverfordwest is indebted for its fine old +sandstone bridge, which he caused to be built at his own expense, and +presented as a free gift to the borough. John Wesley and Sir Isaac +Newton were numbered amongst his friends; and a monument, erected to his +memory by the grateful townsfolk, is to be seen in St. Mary's Church, +Haverfordwest. + +General Picton, of Peninsular War renown, was a famous scion of the same +good stock. It is said that, owing to his influence abroad, large +quantities of the best wine of Oporto found their way into many a +Pembrokeshire cellar, where such a vintage had hitherto been a luxury +unknown. + +During the Civil Wars, Picton Castle was garrisoned and held for King +Charles by Sir Richard Philipps, second baronet; but was eventually +surrendered (as the story goes) under the following circumstances. + +One day during the course of the siege, a servant-maid was standing at +an open casement in the eastern bastion with Sir Erasmus, the infant +heir, upon her arm; when a Parliamentary trooper rode up with a flag of +truce, and presented a letter at the window. No sooner had the maid +reached forward to take the missive, than, raising himself in the +saddle, the soldier snatched the child from the nurse's arms, drew his +sword, and threatened to slay the hope of Picton upon the spot, unless +the castle were instantly surrendered. + +Though much altered and extended in comparatively modern times, Picton +Castle still presents an imposing and dignified appearance; especially +when viewed from the south-east side, whence our sketch is taken. + +The entrance front (which is by far the oldest portion of the +structure) retains the deeply-recessed portal, the rounded arches, +quaint, archaic corbel-heads and narrow windows, that mark the enduring +handiwork of the original Norman builders. Above the massive entrance +porch rise the deep-set windows of the chapel; the handsome painted +glass with which they are adorned, forming an appropriate memorial to a +member of the family of Sir Charles and Lady Philipps, whose tragic +death, in 1893, aroused the deep sympathy of the entire county. + +Rounded bastions project at intervals from the main structure, which is +of an oblong form, with a lofty wing flanking its western end. The moat, +having no purpose to serve in these piping times of peace, has long +since been filled up; and its place is now occupied by pleasant walks +and _parterres_, varied by luxuriant shrubberies. + +The interior of the castle contains numerous suites of apartments, +disposed around a handsome and spacious hall, from whose lofty walls +historic family portraits of various styles and periods look down upon +the beholder. + +At one end of the hall is a gallery communicating with the private +chapel above mentioned; and several quaint, old-fashioned chambers, +whose solid circular walls are of enormous thickness. The panelled +floors and ceilings of these apartments are worthy of notice, as are +their white marble chimney-pieces, delicately wrought in the Italian +manner. From the recesses of the deep-set windows, we command a lovely +prospect over the rich rolling woodlands of the park, encircled by a +silvery reach of the Cleddau towards Landshipping Ferry. + +Passing along the green alleys of the home-wood, we presently emerge +upon a stretch of breezy downland, and forge ahead through whispering +bracken and heather; while the sound of a woodcutter's axe and the +distant bleating of sheep float lazily hitherward upon the calm, clear +air. + +Thence we plunge into a shadowy belt of greenwood that fringes the +waterside; nor until we are nearing Slebech do these woodland glades +roll back, and give place to the more open scenery of Baron de Rutzen's +beautiful demesne. + +[Illustration: SLEBECH CHURCH.] + +The mansion and ruined church of Slebech occupy the site of a Commandery +of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, who early in the twelfth +century established a small community here, to collect funds for the +purposes of that ancient fraternity. The creation of this Commandery +appears to have been an event of considerable importance; and we find +such names as Maurice de Prendergast, the invader of Ireland, and +Fitzgerald, the notorious Bishop of St. Davids, enrolled amongst its +earliest benefactors. + +Dedicated to St. John the Baptist, the old ruined church of the +Knights-Templars stands in a low, sheltered situation, half surrounded +by the waters of the Cleddau; just one of those secluded spots that seem +to have been congenial to the mediæval temperament. The main walls and +arches of the fabric still remain fairly intact, and, like the western +tower, are smothered in masses of rank, untended ivy. + +A doorway in the northern face of the tower gives access, beneath a +low-pitched, Gothic archway, to the interior of the church. This archway +is surmounted by a decayed stone escutcheon, charged with certain +armorial bearings which Fenton deciphered as 'arms quarterly, first and +fourth a fesse dauncette, second and third a lion rampant.' A similar +shield, at the apex of an upper window, displays the simple cross of the +Order of St. John of Jerusalem. + +The dismantled interior, carpeted with rank herbage and vaulted with the +dome of heaven, looks picturesque in its decay. From the spot whence our +sketch was taken, the old font is seen near at hand, overtopped by an +arch giving access to a pretty side-chapel with traceried window, and a +small piscina formed in the flank of the pillar. Through the open +archway upon the right we gain a glimpse of the roofless, desecrated +chancel. When Fenton was here, about the beginning of the present +century, the latter was still covered with its wooden ceiling, fashioned +into square compartments and ornamented at the crossings of the beams +with floreated enrichments, conspicuous amidst which appeared the arms +of the Barlow family. + +At that time the Barlow monument occupied a prominent position against +the south wall of the chancel, which may be easily identified by the +ragged stonework whence the structure has been torn away. This act of +vandalism is much to be deplored, for the monument appears to have been +an unusually handsome one, the effigies of Barlow and his lady reposing +beneath a sumptuous canopy, surmounted by a blank escutcheon. + +By some lucky chance these figures have escaped destruction, and are now +safely stowed away in the vaults of Slebech new church. They are +excellently carved in alabaster, that of the knight being of great size; +his head with its long curling locks rests upon a helmet, while the +collar and order of the Golden Fleece is suspended around his shoulders. +Hence it is supposed that this figure represents a certain Roger Barlow, +who in the reign of Henry VIII. travelled into Spain, and was employed +by the Spanish monarch in his South American ventures. + +The lady, whose effigy is apparently of somewhat earlier date than that +of the male figure, is arrayed in a handsome robe, over which is drawn a +gracefully flowing mantle; while her long, smooth hair, bound with a +chaplet around the brows, falls upon either side about her sloping +shoulders. + +Foundations of ancient buildings are said to have been traced in the +grounds, between the church and the neighbouring mansion; but nothing +worthy of note has as yet seen the light of day. + +Slebech House appears to have been erected at a period when architecture +had fallen to about its lowest ebb; its yellow plastered walls being +pierced with rows of featureless windows, and surmounted by meagre, +meaningless battlements. Nevertheless, the spacious chambers command +such charming vistas of woodland and shimmering waters, as to go far +towards making amends for architectural shortcomings. The mansion has +superseded a structure of no mean antiquity, but of its history, which +was presumably quiet and uneventful, few records have survived to our +times. + +Some three miles to the northward of Slebech lies the obscure hamlet of +Wiston; a place so small and insignificant, that it is by no means easy +to picture it as the erstwhile head of the barony of Daugleddau, a +borough town, and the home of the powerful Wogans. + +Wiston, we are told, derives its name from a certain Wiz, or Wyzo, a +Flemish immigrant of considerable influence, who built a castle here to +protect the infant settlement; of this castle a portion of the keep or +donjon-tower, and a ruined gateway, still remain in tolerable repair. +After having been more than once beleaguered and destroyed, the place +was dismantled and deserted at an early period; so that Wiston Castle +plays but a minor part in the records of border warfare. + +Of the Wogan family, who for many generations made Wiston their home, +the most famous scion was Sir John of that ilk, who was Lord Chief +Justice of England in the reign of Edward I. This Sir John, it may be +noted _en passant_, took to himself the style and title of 'Lord of +Pyketown.' + +So much, then, for Wiston. We now set forth from Slebech, and jaunt +along beside the Eastern Cleddau, with the broad umbrageous woods of +Minwear combing down to the water's edge, upon the farther bank of the +stream. Ere long the Vale of Cleddau begins to widen out, forming a +comely, verdant strath, through which the highroad winds like a narrow +ribbon as it takes its way towards Narberth. For the present, however, +we give this road the go-by, and turn near Canaston bridge into a ruddy +lane, which climbs by a gentle ascent to the crest of the ridgeway. + +Down in the vale below, at a place bearing the name of St. Kennox, lived +good Rees Pritchard, the famous Welsh divine, sometime Chancellor of St. +Davids Cathedral, and author of a celebrated book entitled 'Canwyll y +Cymro,' or the Welshman's Candle. Such was the fame of Pritchard's +oratory, that the vast congregations who flocked to hear him preach +overflowed the limits of the cathedral walls, and clustered thick as +hiving bees in the great south porch, and around the precincts of the +sacred building. + +In about another mile, our lane suddenly debouches upon the broad, +triangular grass-plot, that forms the village-green of time-honoured +Llawhaden. Grouped around the green rise a number of old substantial +homesteads--true 'homes of ancient peace'--whose low-browed +lattice-windows look out upon a vasty duck-pond, overshadowed by clumps +of gnarled and weather-beaten firs. + +[Illustration: LLAWHADEN CASTLE AND BRIDGE.] + +Turning to the right at the foot of the green, we fare along the village +street until it terminates abruptly in a sort of _cul-de-sac_, where the +majestic ruins of Llawhaden Castle seem to forbid our further progress. + +The great Gatehouse, with its lofty drum towers flanking the +boldly-arched portcullis, indicates the noble scale upon which the +fortress was conceived. The eastern tower is still in a fair state of +preservation, retaining the strong stone floors of its successive +stages, though its fellow has been shorn of more than half its bulk. +These towers are pierced with small but well-proportioned +lancet-windows, apparently of Edwardian date, and the corbelled +battlements are carried forward above the gateway, to form a _couloir_ +for pouring down molten lead upon the foe. + +On passing beneath the lofty entrance archway, we are confronted by a +well-proportioned Gothic doorway, with one small pointed window, little +more than a loophole, in the wall beside it; these are the sole relics +of the northern front, of which all else has fallen to decay. Near at +hand rises a slender square tower, whose trefoil-headed windows and +finely-worked mouldings point to a later period than that of the main +structure. From its position and certain accessories, there is reason to +suppose this tower contained the chapel of the castle, erected by Bishop +Vaughan, who enlarged and beautified St. Davids Cathedral. + +A group of flourishing ash-trees, which have sprung up wheresoever they +listed, cast their chequered shade athwart the neglected courtyard; +whilst pigs and poultry, from the adjacent farmstead, roam untended +amidst the masses of fallen masonry, that cumber the ground in every +direction. + +Although perched on the brink of a steep declivity, the castle was +protected by a moat which still remains intact, though sadly choked with +tangled undergrowth and _débris_. This moat was supplied with water from +a stream, which forms the large pond at the foot of the village. + +Thomas Beck, Bishop of St. Davids, is said to have erected Llawhaden +Castle, towards the close of the thirteenth century; but it is more than +probable his building merely superseded a structure of earlier date. + +This worthy prelate also founded, 'in his Villa de Llewhadyn, a little +_Hospitium_, which he dedicated to the poor and needy;' devoting to its +maintenance the revenues derived from his own lands. Thus Bishop Beck +became the first Welsh patron of pilgrims, and supporter of the aged and +infirm. + +Of this very interesting foundation, all that has survived is a small +building with vaulted roof, doorway, windows and a piscina, situated in +a field on the outskirts of the village. This little edifice was in all +probability the chapel of Beck's _hospitium_. A certain Friar William +was entrusted with the charge of the establishment, both he and his +brethren wearing a habit distinctive of their calling. + +By the time of Owen Glyndwr, the castle appears already to have fallen +into disrepair; as we read that the King gave orders for Llawhaden to be +put into a state of defence, victualled, and furnished with a garrison. + +Under the disastrous _régime_ of Bishop Barlow, that rapacious prelate +caused the lead to be stripped from off the castle roofs, even as he had +done at the beautiful old palace of St. Davids. Thenceforth the stately +fabric, exposed to the disintegrating forces of Nature, gradually +succumbed to its misfortunes, and sank into the condition of an +uninhabitable ruin. + +At their castle of Llawhaden, the Bishops of St. Davids lived in true +baronial style; the fortress constituting the _Caput Baroniæ_, by virtue +of which they were entitled to representation in the Parliament of the +realm. + +Before taking leave of Llawhaden Castle, we secure the accompanying +sketch of the great Gatehouse, whose hoary lichen-clad masonry, wreathed +in clinging ivy, rises with bold and striking effect against the dark +foliage of a neighbouring coppice. + +Descending by a steep, hollow lane to the banks of Cleddau, we linger +long about the old bridge and castle-mill to enjoy the placid beauty of +the landscape, whose rich, subdued tints are enhanced by the radiance of +a mellow autumn afternoon. + +Looking upstream, the church forms the central feature of a pleasant, +restful prospect; its picturesque tower reflected in the clear waters of +the Cleddau, which rushes onward to tumble with refreshing roar over a +weir close at hand. Amidst the hanging woodlands which clothe the castle +hill, we catch a glimpse of that ancient fortalice; while the lowing of +kine comes pleasantly to the ear from the deep water-meadows down the +vale. + +We now bend our steps towards the parish church, noticing a simple +wooden cross beside the wicket-gate, whereon is hung a lantern to guide +the footsteps of the benighted flock, during the long, dark evenings of +winter. + +Llawhaden Church stands somewhat remote from the village, in a +sequestered nook where the castle hill and the Cleddau leave scarce +sufficient room for the little church to stand; insomuch that its +chancel gable well-nigh overhangs the stream. Dedicated to St. Hugo, the +sacred edifice contains the mutilated effigy of an ecclesiastic, +commonly supposed to represent the patron saint, but more probably +intended for Adam Houghton, Bishop of St. Davids, and co-founder with +John o' Gaunt of St. Mary's College in that 'city.' + +Houghton distinguished himself by enacting a statute to regulate the +scale of wages, and the price of beer, on behalf of his faithful +'subjects;' while tradition avers that, having been excommunicated by +the Pope for some misdemeanour or other, this intrepid prelate +retaliated by excommunicating the Holy Father himself! + +Inside the church we notice several curiously-sculptured corbels; +besides a two-three quaint epitaphs reciting, in rather questionable +English, the virtues and graces of certain local worthies. + +The semi-detached tower presents a picturesque appearance, having, +attached to its southern face, a square-shaped turret which, curiously +enough, looks older than the tower itself. The internal construction of +this tower is somewhat peculiar, and its belfry contains a triplet of +sweet-toned bells. + +It is, perhaps, worthy of note that Llawhaden is supposed to derive its +name from St. Aeddan, a Pembrokeshire man by birth, and a disciple of +St. David himself. + +Having inspected an ancient cross, built into the eastern gable of the +church, we now retrace our footsteps to the bridge, where, after +searching for some time in vain owing to intervening foliage, we at last +pitch upon a suitable spot for a sketch of that time-worn structure. + +This done, we reluctantly turn our backs upon pretty Llawhaden, and fare +away in the direction of Narberth, playing hide-and-seek with our +shadows as they lengthen under the westering sun. Groups of lads and +little lasses, homeward bound from school, linger in twos and threes by +the rough laneside, where the bramble brakes are thickest; purple lips +and stained pocket-handkerchiefs showing the blackberry season is now in +full swing. + +Anon we clamber over a tall step-stile, near a widespreading ash-tree +whose singular form at once arrests the eye. After growing for some feet +in a horizontal direction, the massive Bole turns abruptly at a sharp +right angle, and shooting skywards, straight as an arrow, branches out +into a head of symmetrical foliage, like the trees in a Dutchman's +garden. + +Pushing on by a footpath that winds down towards a stream in the hollow +of the vale, we presently stumble hot-foot upon a covey of partridges, +who are up in a twinkling, and blustering away to the shelter of a +neighbouring stubble-field; while the voice of an unseen +threshing-machine, 'a-bummin' away like a buzzard clock,' palpitates +through the drowsy air of the still, September afternoon. + +Leaving St. Kennox away to our right, we now make for the village of +Robeston Wathen; the choice lying between breasting the hill by a steep +green field-path, or approaching in more leisurely fashion by way of the +lane. The voting goes all in favour of the shorter route, which brings +us out at a point near Robeston Church, whose tall, isolated tower is +conspicuous for a long distance around. At the cross-roads near the +village stands a group of wayside cottages, whose deep thatched roofs, +and low porches embowered in honeysuckle and climbing plants, make a +very charming picture. + +Past the disestablished toll-gate, the road slants away down the bank to +a bridge over a narrow streamlet. Thence ensues the long, steady ascent +of Cock's Hill, which lands us eventually at a considerable altitude on +the outskirts of Narberth; a place that, with the exception of its +ruined castle, has little to commend it to wayfarers who, like +ourselves, are 'in search of the picturesque.' + +A town of some importance in bygone times, when its markets were +resorted to by half the countryside, Narberth appears of late to have +fallen upon degenerate days; the mail-coaches having deserted its +grass-grown streets for ever, while the railway trains that have usurped +their place give the unfortunate town the go-by, in favour of other and +more enterprising communities. + +Wending our way adown the long, featureless High Street, we pass on our +left the broad front of the De Rutzen Arms, a large wayside +posting-house, around whose weed-grown courtyard hang memories of the +old coaching days. Then, leaving the parish church away to the right, +and navigating some intricate lanes, we approach the outskirts of the +town, and make the best of our way to the castle ruins. + +Crowning the southward slope of the hill upon which the town is located, +Narberth Castle occupies a position of considerable importance. The +ruins of the fortress, though small, and devoid of striking features, +are not without a certain picturesque appearance when seen from the +Tenby road. It must, however, be confessed that 'distance lends +enchantment to the view;' for the existing remains are of a very +fragmentary nature, consisting of a few broken bastions, with some odds +and ends of more or less dilapidated masonry. + +At the time of the Norman Conquest, Narberth fell to the share of Sir +Stephen Perrot, a follower of the redoubtable Arnulph de Montgomery. +Although there is record of a castle here as long ago as the eleventh +century, the present structure is certainly not of earlier date than the +days of Sir Andrew Perrot, or, say, about the middle of the thirteenth +century; indeed, the character of the existing work seems to point to +its erection at an even later period. + +In the reign of Edward III., Narberth Castle came into the possession of +Roger Mortimer, the great Earl Marcher, and sometime favourite of Queen +Isabella; passing subsequently under the direct control of the Crown. +Eventually bluff King Hal presented the estate in his own freehanded way +to our old acquaintance, Sir Rhys ap Thomas; and so when John Leland, +the famous antiquary, travelled into South Wales upon his 'Laborious +Journey, and Searche for England's Antiquities,' he duly described +Narberth Castle as a 'praty pile of old Sir Rees.' + +To the south of the town lies a broken, hilly district called Narberth +Forest; whence were procured, in bygone days, large quantities of oak +and other timber, for building the famous 'wooden walls' of the British +navy. In olden times, this locality formed a favourite hunting-ground of +the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, whose custom it was to ride out +from their headquarters at Slebech, and chase the wild deer that +frequented its woodland glades. + +The village of Templeton, (which doubtless derives its name from that +martial fraternity), is now a mere rambling, skeleton of a place, with a +few dwelling-houses of the better sort amongst the cottages that flank +the highway. Once upon a time, it is said, Templeton could boast its +village-cross and ancient wayside chapel; but of these not a solitary +vestige has survived to give colour to the story. + +[Illustration: EGLWYSFAIR GLAN TAP.] + +We now approach the eastern confines of the County, and thus enter upon +the beginning of the end of our Pembrokeshire peregrinations. From +Templeton we set our faces towards the hamlet of Eglwysfair-glan-Tâf, +better known, probably, to the _Saesneg_ traveller as Whitland railway +junction. + +Laying our course adown the vale of the pretty Afon Marlas, we traverse +the long village street of Lampeter Velfrey; and so, keeping rail and +river upon our left flank, we presently strike the course of the infant +Tâf near the old disused toll-gate at Pen-y-bont. At the little bridge +that connects our County with its big neighbour of Carmarthen, we call a +halt to lounge beside the low parapet, and transfer to the sketch-book +an impression of St. Mary's Church, with the time-worn stonework of the +old arches and cutwaters spanning the trout stream in the foreground. + + * * * * * + +Here, then, we bid farewell to quaint old Pembrokeshire, and conclude +our sketching rambles amidst its secluded byways. + +Not many localities, we take it, can boast, within so comparatively +limited a compass, such varied attractions for the lover of old-world +associations and time-worn architecture; attractions, withal, that to +some minds are enhanced by a sense of remoteness and isolation from the +ceaseless _Sturm und Drang_ of modern city life. + +Although far from exhausting the scope of such a many-sided subject, we +venture to hope that these pages may enable our readers to participate +in the unalloyed pleasure and interest we have ourselves derived, from +these pen-and-pencil peregrinations amidst the Nooks and Corners of +Pembrokeshire. + +[Illustration: REDBERTH FONT.] + + + + +INDEX. + + + A. + + Abercastell, 142 + Abergwaen, 143 + Afon Dûad, 152, 156 + Afon Gwaen, 2, 143 + Afon Marlas, 196 + Afon Nevern, 152-154, 166 + Afon Syvynvy, 171 + Allan River, 3 + Anchor at Hoaton, 194 + Angle, 80, 81, 84 + Angle Bay, 79 + Angle Castle, 82 + Anne's Head, St., 84, 123 + + + B. + + Bangeston House, 84 + Barker, E. H. Lingen-, Esq., 179 + Barlows of Slebech, 188, 189 + Barri, Gerald de, 46 + Bartholomew Roberts, 174 + Bayvil, 159 + Beavers in Wales, 171 + Bedd-yr-Avangc, 170 + Benton Castle, 184 + Bishop-and-Clerks Islets, 138 + Bishop's Palace, St. Davids, 135-137 + Blockhouse at Angle, 83 + Bonville's Court, 31 + Bosheston, 68 + Bosheston Meer, 71 + Boulston, 179 + Brestgarn, 144 + Brides, St., 118 + Brunt, 124 + Bullibur, 73 + Bullslaughter Bay, 72 + Byrnach, St., 150, 174 + + + C. + + Caldey Island, 19-21 + Campbell, Admiral Sir G., 67 + Capel Stinian, 138 + Carew Castle, 95-98 + Carew Church, 94, 99, 100 + Carew Cross, 94 + Carmelite Nunnery, Tenby, 14 + Carnedd Meibion Owen, 150, 152, 158 + Carn Englyn, 1, 148, 150, 152 + Carn Llidi, 2, 140 + Carreg Gwastad Point, 147 + Carswall, 29 + Castell Conyn, 175 + Castle Hill, Tenby, 15 + Castle Malgwyn, 163, 164 + Castle Martin, 89-91 + Cathedral, St. Davids, 130-134 + Cawdor, Lord, 66, 144 + Cheriton, 64, 65 + Church Plate, Gumfreston, 25 + Cilmaenllwyd, 174 + Clark, G. T., Esq., 56 + Clawdd-y-Millwyr, 139 + Cleddau River, 2, 168, 175, 182, 190 + Cobb, J. R., Esq., 42, 56, 59 + Coedmore, 161 + Coracle, 161 + Court, 157 + Croes Mihangel, 168 + Cromlechs, 48, 142, 151, 158 + Crosses, 32, 94, 154, 155 + Crowpoole, 77 + Crugau Kemaes, 159 + Crymmych Arms, 166, 168 + Cwm Cerwyn, Foel, 169 + + + D. + + Dale, 122, 123 + Dale Roads, 123 + Daniels, St., 63 + Davids, St., 128, 129 + De Barri, Gerald, 46 + De Barri Monument, Manorbere, 51 + De la Roche Monument, 182 + De Rutzen, Baron, 187 + Dewisland, 2, 126 + Dinas, 148 + Dinas Head, 2, 143 + Dogmaels, St., 165 + Dogwell, St., 174 + Dowrog Common, 141 + Drudgeman's Hill, 109 + Dûad Stream, 152, 156 + + + E. + + East Blockhouse, 83 + Eastern Cleddau, 2, 168, 190 + Eastington, 79, 85, 86 + Eglwys Erw, 157 + Eglwysfair Glan Tâf, 196 + Eglwys Wen, 157 + + + F. + + Fishguard, 143, 145, 148 + Fissures in Rock, Manorbere, 49 + Flemings in Pembrokeshire, 181 + Flether Hill, 177 + Flimston, 73 + Florence, St., 28, 29 + Foel Cwm Cerwyn, 1, 169 + Foel Trigarn, 168 + Ford, 175 + Fordd Fleming, 5, 142, 167, 170 + French in Pembrokeshire, 143 + Freshwater Bay, 79 + Freystrop, 179 + Fryn-y-Fawr, 167 + + + G. + + Garn Vawr, 147 + Gateholm, 121 + Giraldus Cambrensis, 46, 47 + Glyndwr, Owen, 175 + Glyn-y Mel, 143 + Goodwic, 145 + Govan's Chapel, St., 68 + Gower, Bishop, 131 + Grassholm, 121 + Gulf Stream, 6 + Gumfreston, 24, 25 + Gwaen River, 2, 143 + Gwahan Garreg, 138 + Gwryd-bach, 141 + + + H. + + Haroldstone, 109, 179 + Haverfordwest, 109-111, 178 + Hayward Family, 177 + Hean Castle, 31 + Hênllan House, 78 + Hênllys, 156 + Hirlas Horn, 67 + Hoaton, 124 + Hobb's Point, 78, 106 + Hodgeston, 39 + Holyland, 104 + Houghton, Bishop, 193 + Howards of Rudbaxton, 175, 176 + Howel Davies, 174 + Hoyle's Mouth, 29 + Hundleton, 74 + Huntsman's Leap, 71 + + + I. + + Issells, St., 31 + Ivy Tower, 31 + + + J. + + Jestynton, 85 + Johnston, 108 + Jordanston, 142 + + + K. + + Kemaes, 149 + Kennox, St., 190 + Kensington, Lord, 118 + Kilgerran, 159, 160 + King's Bridge, 104 + + + L. + + Lampeter Velfrey, 196 + Lamphey, 36-38 + Lamphey Park, 93 + Landshipping, 184 + Langwm, 180, 181 + Laugharne Family, 119 + Lawrenny, 183, 184 + Letterston, 175 + Little England beyond Wales, 6, 180 + Little Haven, 117 + Little Newcastle, 174 + Llanbeudy, 174 + Llandilo, 172, 173 + Llangolman, 173 + Llanhyvor Castle, 152 + Llantood, 159 + Llanvirnach, 173, 174 + Llanwnda, 145, 146 + Llawhaden, 190-193 + Llechllafar, 135 + Llechrhyd Bridge, 163 + Llwyngwair, 2, 151 + Longhouse, 142 + Lord Kensington, 118 + Lower Solva, 126 + Lucy Walters, 107 + Lydstep, 33 + + + M. + + Maenclochog, 171, 172 + Malgwyn Castle, 163, 164 + Manorbere, 48, 49 + Manorbere Castle, 41-45 + Manorbere Church, 50, 51 + Marloes, 120, 121 + Marteltewi, 182 + Mathry, 142 + Melchior Family, 173 + Menapia, 5, 127, 139 + Merlin's Bridge, 109 + Mesur-y-Dorth, 142 + Milford Haven, 3, 84, 104 + Mill Bay, 123 + Monachlogddu, 173 + Monkton, 61-63 + Moor Farm, 91 + Mullock Bridge, 119 + + + N. + + Narberth, 195 + Narberth Forest, 196 + Nevern, 152-154 + Nevern River, 2, 151, 166 + Newgale Brook, 2, 126 + New Milford, 106 + Newport, 149-151 + Newton, 89 + Nightingales in Pembrokeshire, 77 + Non's Chapel, 138 + Normans in Pembrokeshire, 5, 149 + + + O. + + Octopitarum, 127 + Ogham Stones, 20, 159 + Old Hall, Monkton, 61 + Old Rectory, Carew, 100 + Orielton, 74 + Orlandon, 119 + Owen Glyndwr, 175 + Owen of Hênllys, 156 + + + P. + + Parc-y-Marw, 148 + Parrog, 2, 151 + Pembroke, 54, 55, 60, 61 + Pembroke Castle, 56-60 + Pembroke Dock, 104-106 + Penally, 31 + Pen-beri, 2, 142 + Pencaer, 147 + Pennar River, 77 + Pentre-Evan Cromlech, 158 + Pen-y-Bont, 197 + Philipps of Picton, 186, 187 + Picton, 185-187 + Picton Family, 186 + Pilgrims' Cross at Nevern, 155 + Plumstone Mountain, 2 + Poll-tax Inn, 174 + Pont-y-Baldwyn, 156 + Precelly Hills, 1, 168, 169 + Prendergast, 177 + Pwllcroghan, 78 + + + R. + + Rambler's Folly, 93 + Ramsey Island, 3, 138 + Rees Pritchard, 190 + Rhôs, 2 + Rhôscrowther, 87 + Rhys Monument, 13 + Ridgeway, 35 + Risam Monument, 12 + Ritec Stream, 31 + Robeston Wathen, 194 + Roch Castle, 2, 126 + Roman Roads, 5, 127, 174 + Romans in Pembrokeshire, 5 + Rosebush, 171 + Rosemarket, 107 + Rudbaxton, 175, 176 + Rutzen, Baron de, 187 + + + S. + + Saundersfoot, 30 + Scotsborough, 24 + Sealyham, 175 + Sergeant's Inn, 157 + Skokholm, 121 + Skomer, 3 + Slebech, 188, 189 + Solva, 126, 127 + Solva River, 2 + Stackpole, 6, 54, 65, 68 + Stackpole Court, 66, 67 + Stack Rocks, 72 + St. Anne's Head, 84 + St. Brides, 118 + St. Bride's Bay, 3 + St. Byrnach, 150, 174 + St. Daniels, 63 + St. Davids, 128, 129 + St. Davids Cathedral, 130-134 + St. David's Head, 139 + St. Dogmaels, 165 + St. Dogwells, 174 + St. Florence, 28, 29 + St. George's Bastion, Tenby, 18 + St. Govan's Chapel, 68, 69 + St. Issells, 31 + St. Kennox, 190 + St. Mary's College, 137 + St. Non's Chapel, 138 + St. Teilo, 33, 173 + Sunken Wood, 71 + Syvynvy River, 171 + + + T. + + Tafarn-Bwlch, 170, 171 + Talbenny, 118 + Teilo, St., 33, 173 + Teivy River, 162 + Temple-Druid, 172 + Templeton, 196 + Tenby, 8-11, 21 + Tenby Church, 11, 12 + Toad of Trellyfan, 156 + Trefgarn, 2, 175 + Trefloyne, 30 + Trehowel, 147 + Trellyfan, 155 + Trevine, 142 + + + U. + + Upper Solva, 127 + Upton Castle, 101 + Upton Chapel, 102, 103 + Uzmaston, 179 + + + V. + + Vaughan, Bishop, 134, 191 + Vaughans of Dunraven, 13 + Via Julia, 5, 127, 174 + View from Foel Cwm-Cerwyn, 169, 170 + Vrenny-Vawr, 167 + + + W. + + Wallaston Cross, 78 + Walls of Tenby, 17-19 + Walters, Lucy, 107 + Walton-West, 114 + Walwyn's Castle, 115 + Warren, 73, 89, 92 + Waterwinch, 30 + Wells, 26, 30, 48, 69, 91, 138, 172, 173 + West Angle Bay, 84 + Western Cleddau, 2, 175 + West Gate, Pembroke, 61 + White's Monument, 11, 12 + Whitland, 196 + Williams, Clement, Esq., 32 + Williamstown, 184 + Wiston, 189, 190 + Withybush, 177 + Wogan Cavern, Pembroke, 59 + Wogan Family, 179, 190 + +[Illustration] + + + + +LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. + + + Copies. + Allen, Very Rev. Dean, St. Davids 1 + Arnett, J. E., Tenby 3 + Baker, Rev. S. O., Somerset 1 + Ballinger, J., Cardiff 1 + Bellamy, C. H., Heaton Chapel 1 + Beloe, E. M., King's Lynn 1 + Berensberg, Count Victor de, Haverfordwest 1 + Bethell, W., Malton 1 + and one large. + Blanc, H. S., Edinburgh 1 + Bowen, J. B., Llwyngwair, Crymmych 1 + Bowen, Rev. D., Pembroke 1 + Bridgman, Rev. Canon, Wigan 1 + Brigstocke, Ll., Haverfordwest 12 + Bromley, Rev. W., Manorbere Vicarage 1 + Bumpus, J. and E., Limited, Holborn 1 + Bute, Lord, Cardiff Castle 1 + Carroway, J., Blackheath 1 + Chance, R. L., Edgbaston 2 + Cherwood-Aiken, J. C., Stoke Bishop 1 + Codner, D. J. D., Pembrokeshire 1 + Daltry, Rev. T. W., Newcastle 1 + Davies, D. J., Knightsbridge 1 + Davies, G., Pembroke 1 + Davies, Rev. G., St. Brides, Pembroke 1 + Davies, Rev. W., Morlais. Fishguard 1 + Davies-Burlton, T., Leominster 1 + Davis, Mrs. Warren, Milford Haven 1 + Dixon, W. H., 1, Arthur Road, Edgbaston 1 + Dodd, Mead, and Co., New York 3 + and one large. + Downing, Wm., Birmingham 1 + Duncan, John, F.J.I., J.P., Cardiff 1 + Elkington, G., Edgbaston 1 + Evans, T. W., Fellowes Road, London 1 + Feeney, John, Birmingham 1 + Field, H. H., Beds 1 + Gilpin, Captain N., Hove 1 + Gray, Henry, Leicester Square 12 + Greenish, R., Manorbere 1 + Gwyther, F., Haverfordwest 1 + Hanbury, Rev. T., Market Harborough 1 + Hand, T. W., Oldham 1 + Harries, Cecilia J., London 1 + Hartwright, H., Harporley 1 + Haslam, W. F., Edgbaston 1 + Haslewood, Rev. F. G., Canterbury 1 + Haynes, G. B., Brynhir, near Swansea 1 + Haynes, H, Harrow, Middlesex 1 + Henman, William, F.R.I.B.A., Birmingham 2 + Hill, T. Rowley, Worcester 1 + Hilbers, the Ven. Archdeacon, G. C., Haverfordwest 1 + Hooke, Rev. D. Burford, High Barnet 1 + Horncastle, H., Woking 1 + Howell, George Owen, Plumstead 1 + Idris, T. B. W., Camden Town 1 + Jakeman and Carver, Hereford 1 + John, E., Middlesborough 1 + Jolly, F., Bath 1 + Jones, M. T., Wrexham 1 + Layton, C. Miller, Folkestone 1 + Lester, E., Rochester 1 + Lewis, Rev. David, St. Davids 1 + Lillington, Mrs. E., Penzance 1 + Lingard-Monk, R. B. M., Wilmslow 1 + Llewellyn, R. W., Briton Ferry 1 + Lloyd, E. O. V., Corwen 2 + Lloyd, H. Meuric, South Wales 1 + Lloyd-Philips, F. L., Pembrokeshire 1 + Maillard, Mrs., Pembroke 1 + Marrs, Kingsmill, Saxonville, U.S.A. 1 + Marychurch, Wm., Cardiff 1 + Mathias, H., Haverfordwest 1 + Mayler, J. E., Wexford 1 + Meynell, Edgar J., Durham 1 + Middlemass, Major J. C., Monkton 1 + Morgan, Rev. C., Pembroke 1 + Morgan, Lieut.-Col. W. L., Swansea 1 + Morrison, Dr., Portclew, Pembroke 1 + Nevin, J., Mirfield 1 + Nield, W., Bristol 1 + Oldham Central Free Library 1 + Owen, Honourable Mrs., Treffgarn 1 + Owen, Rev. Elias, M.A., F.S.A., Oswestry 1 + Parker, F. Rowley, Harrow Weald 1 + Parkinson, Captain F. R., President, Garrison Library, Pembroke Dock 1 + Pashley, R., Rotherham 1 + Pears, Andrew, Isleworth 1 + Penney, J. W., Pembroke 1 + Perrott, E., West Brighton 1 + Phelps, Rev. C. M., Haverfordwest 1 + Phillips. Rev. J., Haverfordwest 1 + Philipps, Sir Charles E. G., Bart., Lord Lieutenant, Haverfordwest 1 + Pierce, Ellis, Dolyddelen 1 + Pollen, G. A. J., Seaton Carew 1 + Powell, Mrs., Hereford 1 + Price, Rees, Glasgow 1 + Prickett, T. A., Tottenham Court Road, W. 1 + Protheroe, E. S., Dolwilym 1 + Randall, J., Sheffield 1 + Reece, Mrs., Carpenter Road, Edgbaston 1 + Rees, Griffith, Birkenhead 1 + Rees, Howell, J.P., South Wales 1 + Rees, J. Rogers, Penarth 1 + Richards, D., Cardiff 1 + Richards, D. M., Aberdare 1 + Roberts, O. M., Portmadoc 1 + Roberton, J. D., Glasgow 1 + Rock, T. Dennis, South Wales 1 + Roughsedge, Miss, Birkenhead 1 + Rowntree, Wm., Scarborough 1 + Samson, Louis, Haverfordwest 1 + Sandys, Lt.-Col. T. Myles, M.P., Ulverston 1 + and one large. + Seward, E., Cardiff 1 + Skrine, H. D., Bath 1 + Small, Evan W., Newport 1 + Society of Antiquaries 1 + Sparrow, A., Shrewsbury 1 + Spurrell, W., and Son, Carmarthen 4 + St. Davids, The Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of 1 + Stewart, J., Llandyssil 1 + Stone, Rev. D., Wallingford 1 + Studholme, Paul, Parsonstown 1 + Sturge, R. L., Bristol 1 + Swansea, The Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of 1 + Swinburne, Mrs. W. A., Dulais Hay 1 + Thomas, J., J.P., Haverfordwest 1 + Thomas, T. Lynn, Cardiff 1 + Thomas, Rev. F. O., Narberth 1 + Thomas, Rev. W. Meyler, Milford Haven 1 + Thomason, Yeoville, F.R.I.B.A., Kensington 1 + Timmins, F. H., Westfield Road, Edgbaston 1 + Timmins, Miss, Edgbaston 1 + Tredegar, Lord, Tredegar Park 1 + Trevaldwyn, Rev. B. W. J., Looe 1 + Treweeks, R. H. 3 + and one large. + Troutbeck, Miss, Congleton 1 + Turbervill, Colonel J. P., Bridgend 1 + Turner, W. H., Maidstone 1 + Walker, W., Finsbury Park 1 + Walters, Rev. T., Maenclochog 1 + Warburton, S., Balham 1 + Wharton, Rev. G., Abingdon 1 + Williams, G., Finsbury Pavement 1 + Williams, J., Brook Street, W. 1 + Williams, Wm, Aberystwyth 2 + Williamson, G. C., Guildford 1 + Wills, W. Leonard, Worcestershire 1 + Wright, A. J., Milford Haven 1 + + +LARGE PAPER. + + Copies + Bethell, W., Malton 1 + and one small. + Brigstocke, Ll., Haverfordwest 1 + Brimmer, Mrs. Martin, Boston, U.S.A. 1 + Dodd, Mead, and Co., New York 1 + Gray, H., London 3 + Ford, J. W., Enfield Old Park 1 + Jones, J., 19, Cheapside, E.C. 1 + Kensington, Lady, Pembrokeshire 1 + Lambton, Lt.-Col. F. W., Pembroke 1 + Owen, Henry, 44, Oxford Terrace, W. 1 + Sandys, Lt.-Col. T. Myles, M.P., Ulverston 1 + and one small. + Saunders, E. A., Pembroke Dock 1 + Smith, R. V. Vassar, Cheltenham 1 + Treweeks, R. H. 1 + and three small. + + + + +[Illustration: PENBROKSHYRE] + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Nooks and Corners of Pembrokeshire, by +H. Thornhill Timmins + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40270 *** |