diff options
Diffstat (limited to '40220.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | 40220.txt | 3995 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 3995 deletions
diff --git a/40220.txt b/40220.txt deleted file mode 100644 index ed267e3..0000000 --- a/40220.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3995 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, How Women Should Ride, by C. De Hurst - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - - - - -Title: How Women Should Ride - - -Author: C. De Hurst - - - -Release Date: July 12, 2012 [eBook #40220] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW WOMEN SHOULD RIDE*** - - -E-text prepared by Julia Miller, JoAnn Greenwood, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images -generously made available by Internet Archive/American Libraries -(http://archive.org/details/americana) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 40220-h.htm or 40220-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/40220/40220-h/40220-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/40220/40220-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive/American Libraries. See - http://archive.org/details/howwomenshouldri00dehu - - - - - -HOW WOMEN SHOULD RIDE - -by - -"C. DE HURST" - -Illustrated - - - - - - - -[Illustration] - -New York -Harper & Brothers, Franklin Square -1892 - -Copyright, 1892, by HARPER & BROTHERS. -All rights reserved. - - - - - TO - E. E. F. - - TO WHOM I OWE THE EXPERIENCE - WHICH HAS ENABLED ME TO WRITE OF RIDING - - THIS BOOK - - IS GRATEFULLY AND AFFECTIONATELY - DEDICATED - - - - -INTRODUCTION - - -It has not been the intention of the author of this little volume to -present the reader with elaborate chapters of technical essays. - -Entire libraries have been written on the care and management of the -horse from the date of its foaling; book upon book has been compiled -on the best and proper method of acquiring some degree of skill in the -saddle. The author has scarcely hoped, therefore, to exhaust in 248 -pages a subject which, after having been handled on the presses of -nearly every publisher in this country and England, yet contains -unsettled points for the discussion of argumentative horse-men and -horse-women. - -But it happens with riding--as, indeed, it does with almost every -other subject--that we ignore the simpler side for the more intricate. -We delve into a masterpiece, suitable for a professional, on the -training of a horse, when the chances are we do not know how to saddle -him. We stumble through heavy articles on bitting, the technical terms -of which we do not understand, when if our own horse picked up a stone -we probably would be utterly at a loss what to do. - -We, both men and women, are too much inclined to gallop over the -fundamental lessons, which should be conned over again and again until -thoroughly mastered. We are restive in our novitiate period, impatient -to pose as past-masters in an art before we have acquired its first -principles. - -Beginning with a bit of advice to parents, of which they stand sorely -in need, it is the purpose of this book to carry the girl along the -bridle-path, from the time she puts on a habit for the first attempt, -to that when she joins the Hunt for a run across country after the -hounds. - -There is no intention of wearying and confusing her by a formidable -array of purely technical instruction. - -The crying fault with nearly all those who have handled this subject -at length has been that of distracting the uninformed reader by the -most elaborate dissertation on all points down to the smallest -details. - -This author, on the contrary, has shorn the instruction of all hazy -intricacies, with which the equestrienne has so often been asked to -burden herself, and brought out instead only those points essential -to safety, skill, and grace in the saddle. - -No space has been wasted on unnecessary technicalities which the woman -is not likely to either understand or care to digest, but everything -has been written with a view of aiding her in obtaining a sound, -practical knowledge of the horse, under the saddle and in harness. - - - - -CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER I - - A WORD TO PARENTS Page 3 - - Dangers of Early Riding, 4.--Vanity, 9. - - - CHAPTER II - - GIRLS ON HORSEBACK 13 - - Hints to Mothers, 13.--The Beginner's - Horse, 14.--Costuming, 16.--Preparatory - Lessons, 16.--Instructors, 20.--Balance, 21.--Hands, - 23.--Position, 25.--Management, 26. - - - CHAPTER III - - BEGINNING TO RIDE 31 - - Form, 32.--Insufficient Training, 33.--Mounting, - 34.--Dismounting, 37.--Stirrup, 38. - - - CHAPTER IV - - IN THE SADDLE 43 - - Below the Waist, 44.--Above the Waist, 48.--Hands - and Wrists, 49.--Reins, 53. - - - CHAPTER V - - EMERGENCIES 63 - - Eagerness to Start, 63.--Shyers, 65.--Stumblers, - 66.--Rearers, 66.--Plungers, 67.--Buckers, - 68.--Pullers, 70.--Runaways, 72.--Punishment, 76. - - - CHAPTER VI - - CHOOSING A MOUNT 83 - - An Adviser, 83.--Park Hack, 87.--Measurement, - 88.--Conformation, 90.--Hunter, 94.--Gait and - Manners, 95. - - - CHAPTER VII - - DRESS 99 - - Skirt, 100.--Safety Skirt, 100.--Divided - Skirt, 102.--Bodice, 103.--Waistcoat, 104.--Corsets, - 105.--Boots, Breeches, Tights, 106.--Collars and - Cuffs, 110.--Gloves, 111.--Hair and Hat, 112.--Veil, - 113.--Whip or Crop, 113.--Spur, 114. - - - CHAPTER VIII - - LEAPING 121 - - Requirements, 121.--In the Ring, 122.--Approaching - Jump, 122.--Taking off, 124.--Landing, - 125.--Lifting, 126.--Out-of-Doors, 127.--Pilot, - 128.--Selecting a Panel, 128.--Stone Wall, 130.--In - Hand, 131.--Trappy Ground and Drops, 131.--In and - Out, 133.--Picket and Slat Fences, 134.--Wire, - 135.--Combined Obstacles, 136.--Refusing, - 136.--Timidity, 137.--Temper, 138.--Rider at Fault, - 139. - - - CHAPTER IX - - LEAPING (continued) 145 - - Rushers, 145.--Balkers, 147.--Sluggards, 149.--Falls, - 150. - - - CHAPTER X - - RIDING TO HOUNDS 159 - - Courtesy, 159.--The Novice, 161.--Hard - Riding, 162.--Jealous Riding, 163.--Desirable - Qualities, 164.--Getting Away, 165.--Indecision, - 166.--Right of Way, 167.--Funk, 168.--Excitable - and Sluggish Horses, 169.--Proximity to Hounds, - 170.--Choosing a Line, 172. - - - CHAPTER XI - - SYMPATHY BETWEEN HORSE AND WOMAN 179 - - Talking to Horse, 180.--In the Stall, 183.--On the - Road, 185.--Cautions, 187. - - - CHAPTER XII - - PRACTICAL KNOWLEDGE OF THE STABLE 193 - - Stabling, 193.--Picking up Feet, 194.--Grooming, - 197.--Bitting, 197.--Clipping, 199.--Bridling, - 200.--Noseband, 202.--Martingale, 203.--Breast-plate, - 204.--The Saddle, 205.--Stirrup, 208.--Girths, - 209.--Saddling, 210. - - - CHAPTER XIII - - SOMETHING ON DRIVING 215 - - Desirability of Instruction, 215.--Vulgar - Display, 218.--Bad Form, 219.--Costume, 220.--Cockade, - 221.--Confidence, 222.--The Family-Horse Fallacy, - 222.--On the Box, 223.--Position of Reins, 224.--Handling - Reins, 225.--A Pair, 226. - - - CHAPTER XIV - - SOMETHING MORE ON DRIVING 231 - - Management, 231.--Stumbling, 232.--Backing, - 232.--Rearing and Kicking, 234.--Rein under Tail, - 236.--Bolting and Running, 238.--Crowded - Driveways, 239.--Road Courtesy, 241.--Tandems and Teams, - 243.--Reins, 244.--Unruly Leader, 245.--Turning, 246. - - - - -Illustrations - - - CORRECT POSITION _Facing p._ 24 - - INCORRECT POSITION " 26 - - INCORRECT LEFT LEG AND HEEL 43 - - CORRECT LEFT LEG AND HEEL 44 - - INCORRECT RIGHT THIGH AND KNEE 46 - - CORRECT RIGHT THIGH AND KNEE 47 - - CORRECT KNUCKLES, SIDE VIEW 50 - - INCORRECT POSITION OF HANDS 51 - - HANDS IN GOOD FORM, FRONT VIEW 52 - - SNAFFLE OUTSIDE, CURB INSIDE, FRONT VIEW 54 - - SNAFFLE OUTSIDE, CURB INSIDE, SIDE VIEW 55 - - REINS IN TWO HANDS, SNAFFLE OUTSIDE, - CURB INSIDE _Facing p._ 56 - - POSITION OF REINS AND HANDS IN JUMPING, - CURB OUTSIDE, SNAFFLE INSIDE 57 - - REINS IN TWO HANDS, CURB OUTSIDE, SNAFFLE - INSIDE, SIDE VIEW 58 - - HANDS AND SEAT IN REARING _Facing p._ 66 - - CROP 114 - - A GOOD SPUR 115 - - TAKING OFF _Facing p._ 124 - - ABOUT TO LAND " 126 - - DOUBLE BRIDLE FOR GENERAL USE " 202 - - CORRECT SADDLE 205 - - UNDESIRABLE SADDLE 206 - - SAFETY STIRRUP, CLOSED 209 - - SAFETY STIRRUP, OPEN 210 - - A WELL-BALANCED CART _Facing p._ 220 - - POSITION IN TANDEM DRIVING " 244 - - - - -I - -A WORD TO PARENTS - - -Riding has been taken up so generally in recent years by the mature -members of society that its espousal by the younger element is quite -in the natural order of events. We can look upon the declaration of -Young America for sport with supreme gratification, as it argues well -for the generation to come, but we should not lose sight of the fact -that its benefits may be more than counterbalanced by injudiciously -forcing these tastes. That there is danger of this is shown by the -tendency to put girls on horseback at an age much too tender to have -other than harmful results. - -It is marvellous that a mother who is usually most careful in guarding -her child's safety should allow her little one to incur the risks -attendant upon riding (which are great enough for a person endowed -with strength, judgment, and decision) without proper consideration of -the dangers she is exposed to at the time, or a realization of the -possible evil effects in the future. - -[Sidenote: Dangers of Early Riding] - -Surely parents do not appreciate what the results may be, or they -would never trust a girl of eight years or thereabouts to the mercy of -a horse, and at his mercy she is bound to be. No child of that age, or -several years older, has strength sufficient to manage even an unruly -pony, which, having once discovered his power, is pretty sure to take -advantage of it at every opportunity; and no woman is worthy the -responsibilities of motherhood who will permit her child to make the -experiment. - -Even if no accident occurs, the knowledge of her helplessness may so -frighten the child that she will never recover from her timidity. It -is nonsense to say she will outgrow it; early impressions are never -entirely eradicated; and should she in after-life appear to regain her -courage, it is almost certain at a critical moment to desert her, and -early recollections reassert themselves. - -The vagaries of her own mount are not the only dangers to which the -unfortunate child is exposed. - -Many accidents come from collisions caused by some one else's horse -bolting; and it is not to be expected, when their elders often lose -their wits completely, that shoulders so young should carry a head -cool enough to make escape possible in such an emergency. - -It is a common occurrence to hear parents inquiring for a "perfectly -safe horse for a child." - -Such a thing does not exist, and the idea that it does often betrays -one into trusting implicitly an animal which needs perhaps constant -watching. If fresh or startled, the capers of the most gentle horse -will not infrequently create apprehension, because totally unexpected. -On the other hand, if he is too sluggish to indulge in any expressions -of liveliness, he is almost sure to require skilful handling and -constant urging to prevent his acquiring a slouching gait to which it -is difficult to rise. - -A slouching horse means a stumbling one, and, with the inability of -childish hands to help him recover his balance, he is likely to fall. - -Supposing the perfect horse to be a possibility--a girl under sixteen -has not the physique to endure without injury to her health such -violent exercise as riding. From the side position she is forced to -assume, there is danger of an injured spine, either from the unequal -strain on it or from the constant concussion, or both. - -If a mother can close her eyes to these dangers, insisting that her -child shall ride, a reversible side-saddle is the best safeguard that -I know of against a curved spine; but it only lessens the chances of -injury, and is by no means a sure preventive, although it has the -advantage of developing both sides equally. - -Another evil result of beginning too young is that if she escapes -misadventures and does well, a girl is sure to be praised to such an -extent that she forms a most exaggerated idea of her prowess in the -saddle. By the time she is sixteen she is convinced that there is no -room for improvement, and becomes careless, lapsing into many of her -earlier faults. Parents should guard against this. It is often their -affection which permits them to see only the good points of their -daughter's riding, and their pride in her skill leads to undue -flattery, which she is only too willing to accept as her due. - -Later I shall mention some of the principles a young rider should -acquire, and it is the duty of those who have put her in the saddle -when too young to judge for herself to see that she follows them -correctly. The necessity of riding in good form cannot be too firmly -impressed on her mind. One often hears: "Oh, I only want to ride a -little in the Park; so don't bother me about form. I ride for pleasure -and comfort, not work"--all of which is wrong; for, whether in the -Park, on the road, in the country, or in the hunting-field, nothing -is of more importance than to ride in good form. To do so is to ride -easily, being in the best position to manage the horse, and therefore -it is also to ride safely. - -[Sidenote: Vanity] - -The desire to attract attention often induces women to ride. Young -girls soon learn to do likewise, and their attempts at riding for the -"gallery" by kicking the horse with the heel, jerking its mouth with -the curb, that she may impress people with her dashing appearance, as -the poor tormented animal plunges in his endeavors to avoid the -pressure, are lamentable and frequent sights in many riding-schools. - -Objectionable as this is in an older person, it is doubly so in a -child, from whom one expects at least modesty instead of such boldness -as this betokens. It is to be hoped that those in authority will -discourage her attempts at circus riding, and teach her that a quiet, -unobtrusive manner will secure her more admirers than an air of -bravado. - - - - -II - -GIRLS ON HORSEBACK - - -[Sidenote: Hints to Mothers] - -Notwithstanding these numerous reasons to the contrary, mothers will -undoubtedly continue to imperil the life and welfare of children whom -it is their mission to protect, and, such being the case, a few -directions as to the best and least dangerous course to pursue may be -of service to them. - -Sixteen is the earliest age at which a girl should begin to ride, as -she is then strong enough to control her mount, has more judgment, is -better able to put instruction into practice, more amenable to reason, -and more attentive to what is told her. If the parents' impatience -will not admit of waiting until this desirable period, it is their -duty to see that the child has every advantage that can facilitate her -learning, and to assure her such safety as is within their power. - -[Sidenote: The Beginner's Horse] - -A common theory is that any old screw, if only quiet, will do for a -beginner. Nothing could be more untrue. The horse for a novice should -have a short but square and elastic trot, a good mouth, even -disposition, and be well-mannered; otherwise the rider's progress will -be greatly impeded. Even if the child is very young, I think it is a -mistake to put her on a small pony for her first lessons, as its gaits -are so often uneven, interfering with all attempts at regular rising -to the trot. - -Ponies are also more liable to be tricky than horses, and, from the -rapidity of their movements, apt to unseat and frighten a beginner. -They are very roguish, and will bolt across a road without any reason, -or stand and kick or rear for their own amusement; and, being so quick -on their feet, their various antics confuse a child so that she loses -her self-possession and becomes terrified. It is just as bad to go to -the other extreme, as a large, long-gaited horse will tire the muscles -of the back, and, if combined with sluggish action, require twice the -exertion needed for a free traveller. Furthermore, it destroys the -rhythm of the movement by making the time of her rise only half as -long as necessary, thus giving her a double jolt on reaching the -saddle. - -Having secured the right sort of horse, the saddle should be chosen -with great care. - -[Sidenote: Costuming] - -It is a shame that little girls are made to ride in the ill-fitting -habits seen half the time. They must set properly, or the best riders -will be handicapped and appear at a disadvantage. A child's skirt -should not wrinkle over the hips more than a woman's, nor should it -ruck up over the right knee, exposing both feet, while the wind -inflates the superfluous folds. Above all things, a girl should not -lace nor wear her habit bodice tight, as no benefit can possibly be -derived from riding with the lungs and ribs compressed. - -[Sidenote: Preparatory Lessons] - -It often happens that a child is put into the saddle before she has -had the opportunity of becoming familiar with a horse, either by -visiting it in its stall or going about it when in the stable. A more -harmful mistake could not be made; the child is likely to be afraid of -the animal the first time she is placed on its back, and nothing so -interferes with tuition as terror. Many of the difficulties of -instructing a little girl will be overcome if her familiarity with the -horse she is to ride has given her confidence in him. She should -frequently be taken to the stable, and encouraged to give him oats or -sugar from her hand, and to make much of him. Meanwhile whoever is -with her must watch the animal, and guard against anything which might -startle the child. She may be lifted on to his back; and if he is -suitable to carry her, he will stand quietly, thus assuring her of his -trustworthiness and gaining her affection. - -Before being trusted on a horse, a beginner should have the theory of -its management explained to her; and here is another drawback to -infantile equestrianism, as a young mind cannot readily grasp the -knowledge. Nevertheless, she must be made to understand the necessity -of riding from balance, instead of pulling herself up by the horse's -mouth, and be shown the action of the curb chain on the chin, that she -may realize why the snaffle should be used for ordinary purposes, so -that in case of an emergency she may have the curb to fall back upon. -She must know that if she pulls against him, the horse will pull -against her, and therefore she must not keep a dead bearing on his -mouth. Unyielding hands are the almost invariable result of riding -before realizing the delicate manipulation a horse's mouth requires. A -light feeling on the curb and a light touch of the whip will show her -how to keep the horse collected, instead of allowing him to go in a -slovenly manner. - -She must not try to make the horse trot by attempting to rise. Until -the animal is trotting squarely she should sit close to the saddle, -instead of bobbing up and down, as he jogs or goes unevenly at first. - -When wishing to canter, in place of tugging at the reins, clucking, -and digging the animal in the ribs with her heel, the child should be -told to elevate her hands a trifle, and touch him on the shoulder with -the whip. - -No habit is more easily formed than that of clucking to a horse, and -it is a difficult one to cure. It is provocative of great annoyance to -any one who is near, and who may be riding a high-spirited animal, as -it makes him nervous and anxious to go, for he cannot tell whether the -signal is meant for him or not, and springs forward in response, when -his owner has perhaps just succeeded in quieting him. Thus can one -make one's self an annoyance to others near by, in a manner which -might so easily have been avoided in the beginning. - -After being familiarized with such rudimentary ideas of horsemanship, -comes the time for putting them into practice. - -[Sidenote: Instructors] - -It is a pity that there are not more competent instructors in the -riding-schools, for it is of great importance to begin correctly; to -find a teacher, however, who possesses thorough knowledge of the -subject is, unfortunately, rare. Their inefficiency is amply -demonstrated by the specimens of riding witnessed every day in the -Park; and either their methods, if they pretend to have any, must be -all wrong, or they are but careless and superficial mentors, as the -results are so often far from satisfactory. - -There are, to be sure, plenty of teachers who ride well themselves, -but that is a very different matter from imparting the benefit of -their knowledge and experience to others. With the best intentions in -the world, they may fail to make their pupils show much skill in the -saddle. Skill, and the power of creating it in the pupil, is an -unusual combination. - -[Sidenote: Balance] - -If a young girl is to ride, she should be put in the saddle and not -permitted to touch the reins. Her hands may rest in her lap, and the -horse should be led at a walk, while the teacher shows her the -position she must try to keep, and tells her what she must do when the -pace is increased. As she becomes used to the situation, and -understands the instructions, the horse may be urged into a slow trot, -she being made to sit close, without, at first, any attempt at rising. -Then a quiet canter may be given her, but on no account should the -child be allowed to clutch at anything to assist in preserving her -balance. It is that she shall not rely on the horse's mouth for -balance that I have advocated keeping the reins from her, and it is a -plan which men and women would do well to adopt. Dependence on the -reins is one of the commonest faults in riding, and every one should -practise trotting (and even jumping, if the horse be tractable) with -folded arms, while the reins are left hanging on the animal's neck, -knotted so they will not fall too low. If the importance of riding -from balance above the waist were more generally recognized, the seat -would of necessity be firmer, the hands lighter, and horses less -fretful. - -[Sidenote: Hands] - -Too much emphasis cannot be put on the importance of good hands. Good -hands are hands made so by riding independently of the reins. -Intuitive knowledge of the horse's intentions, sympathy and -communication with him, which are conveyed through the reins in a -manner too subtle for explanation, must accompany light hands to make -them perfect. Such qualities are absolutely impossible with heavy -hands, which are incapable of the necessary delicate manipulation of -the horse's mouth. Light hands, therefore, should be cultivated first, -and experience may bring the rest. A child, beginning as I have -advised, will early have this instilled into her mind, and not be -obliged to overcome heavy hands when from experience she has learned -their disadvantages. - -After sitting close to the trot and the canter, the beginner must be -told to rise to the trot. At first she will find it difficult to make -her effort correspond to the action of the horse's fore-legs, but, -having once caught the motion, she will soon have no trouble in rising -regularly. When she rises correctly and without much effort, the reins -may be given her. A snaffle will be the best to use until she is sure -of not letting them slip through her fingers, or of not interfering -with the horse's mouth. She should hold the reins in both hands, as -this lessens the probability of sitting askew, although as she becomes -more certain of her seat she may transfer them to the left hand, and -carry a whip or crop in the right. - -If a double bridle has been substituted for the snaffle, the -instructor must show the child that the left snaffle rein goes outside -of her little finger, the left curb between the little and third -fingers, the right curb between the second and third fingers, and the -right snaffle between the first and second. - -[Illustration: CORRECT POSITION] - -Now, as the child begins to have confidence in herself, is the time to -guard against the formation of bad habits, which would later, if -uncorrected, be difficult to eradicate. - -If parents will take the trouble to make an impartial criticism of -their daughter's riding, they can aid her by insisting upon her doing -as she ought, which is beyond the authority of the riding-master. - -[Sidenote: Position] - -They should see that her body is held erect, her shoulders squarely to -the front and thrown back, head up, chin held back, arms hanging -straight to the elbows, hands low and close together, her right knee -immovable, as from there she must rise. Her left leg must be held -quiet, and the heel away from the horse, the ball of the foot resting -on the stirrup; but she must be kept from placing too much reliance on -that support, by practising without it every time she rides, taking -care that, in relinquishing that aid, she does not instead take hold -of the horse's mouth. - -[Illustration: INCORRECT POSITION] - -[Sidenote: Management] - -As the most trustworthy mount will at times be frisky or make a -mistake, a child should be prepared for such a contingency, and know -how to meet it. If a horse stumbles, she must sit well back and pull -his head up. In rearing, the reins must be left loose and the body -thrown forward. A tendency to back must be met with a sharp crack of -the whip. In shying, she must try to sit close, and in case of a -runaway she should understand that no good will come of throwing -herself off. To stick close and try to direct him is all she can do, -for she cannot hope to stop him when once started. If a horse falls -with her, it is best to try and hold on to the reins, as then he -cannot reach her with his heels; but if she cannot succeed in doing -this, she must endeavor to get clear of him and as far away as -possible, to avoid being rolled on or trampled upon as he makes his -effort to get up. - -When I consider the trials and dangers she must pass through, a girl -who is allowed to ride before she is sixteen has my sympathy, while I -look with indignation on the mothers who thus thoughtlessly expose -children to all the evils attendant upon a too early attempt at -riding. - - - - -III - -BEGINNING TO RIDE - - -That riding is increasing in popularity is clearly attested by the -crowded bridle-path of Central Park. It is greatly to be hoped, -however, that with its growth in public favor a more than superficial -knowledge of horsemanship will be sought for by those who desire to -experience all the pleasure which may be derived from this sport. -Women especially, laboring as they do under the disadvantages of a -side-saddle and imperfectly developed muscles, should try to follow -the most efficacious means of managing their horses, a result best -attained by riding in good form. - -[Sidenote: Form] - -Even those who consider themselves first-class horsewomen, and who are -undoubtedly competent to manage an unruly animal, often have defects -in form which destroy the grace and ease of their appearance, and -prevent them, in case of an emergency, from employing the full amount -of power of which they are capable. Besides this, there are so many -benefits to be derived from the exercise--if one will take it in a -common-sense manner--that every endeavor should be made to extract -from it the full amount of good. - -This cannot be done with any undue strain on the muscles arising from -either a poor saddle, a back bent almost double, the arms nearly -pulled out by improper handling of the horse's mouth, or with that -abomination--a tight waist. Sense in dressing and attention to form -are the two indispensable attributes by which women can make riding a -means to improved health. Under such conditions all the organs are -stimulated, and good digestion, an increased appetite, quieted nerves, -better spirits, and sound sleep follow. With such advantages in sight, -it is strange that more of an effort is not made to bring about these -results by overcoming bad habits. - -[Sidenote: Insufficient Training] - -In most instances the faults come either from improper instruction, or -vanity which will not permit or heed criticism. If her horse has been -docile, and refrained from any attempt to throw her, a woman is -sometimes so impressed with her skill that after a few lessons she no -longer regards the advice of her instructor, and thinks she is beyond -the necessity of heeding his admonitions. Having acquired so little -knowledge, she will soon have numerous objectionable peculiarities in -form, resulting from her imperfect conception of horsemanship. - -Occasionally, too, a woman considers herself "a born rider, with a -natural seat," and the result of this belief is a combination of -pitiful mistakes, when, had her taste for the sport been properly -trained and cultivated, instead of being allowed to run wild, she -would probably have become a rider. There might yet remain hope of her -acquiring a seat could she be convinced that there really is some -knowledge on the subject that she has not yet mastered. - -In reference to those who have been taught by incompetent masters, a -great deal is to be said, both to enable them to adopt the right way, -and to prevent those who are desirous of learning from falling into -their mistakes. - -[Sidenote: Mounting] - -Unfortunately it is almost impossible for a woman to mount without -assistance, unless she be very tall and her horse small. In this case -she can reach the stirrup with her foot, and pull herself up by the -saddle. Sometimes the stirrup can be let down and used to mount with, -then drawn up when seated in the saddle. But this can only be done -when the stirrup leather buckles over the off flap, which is not -usual. Another method is to lead the horse to a fence or wall, climb -that, and jump on to his back; but all these methods require a very -quiet horse, and even then are not always practicable. - -It is advisable to learn to mount from the ground as well as from a -block. This is done by placing the right hand containing whip and -reins on the upper pommel, the left foot, with the knee bent, in the -clasped hands of the attendant, the left hand on his shoulder, and, at -a signal, springing from the right foot and straightening the left -leg. - -Nine out of ten women, after mounting, first carefully adjust the -habit, and have the stirrup or girths tightened before putting the -knee over the pommel, while some even button their gloves before; and, -as a secondary consideration, when everything else has been seen to, -they take up the reins, which have been loose on the horse's neck. He -might easily wrench himself from the groom at his head, and without -her hold on the pommel she would fall heavily to the ground; or if she -were seated, but without reins, the horse might bolt into a tree, a -wall, or another horse. She would probably grasp the first rein at -hand, perhaps the curb, and then the horse might rear dangerously, and -if she did not relax her hold on his mouth at once would be likely to -fall backwards with her--the worst thing that can happen to a woman on -a horse. All this may be avoided by taking the reins before mounting, -and upon touching the saddle, instantly putting the right knee over -the pommel. The reins should then be transferred to the left hand, -with the snaffle on the outside, and the curb inside, but loose. It -will then be the proper time to arrange the skirt and the stirrup. - -[Sidenote: Dismounting] - -To dismount she must transfer the reins to her right hand, take her -left foot from the stirrup, and lift her right knee over the upper -pommel, making sure that her skirt is not caught on any part of the -saddle. She must then take a firm hold of the pommel with the hand -containing the reins and the whip, the latter held so that it will not -touch the horse. If there is some one to assist her she may reach out -her left arm, and by this she can be steadied as she dismounts. In -jumping down she should keep hold of the pommel and turn slightly, so -that as she lands she is facing the horse, ready to notice and guard -against signs of kicking or bolting. Until she is fairly on the ground -she must not let go of the reins or the pommel, for should the horse -start she might be dragged with her head down, if her skirt or her -foot caught, and without the reins she could not stop him. - -[Sidenote: Stirrup] - -It is well to discard the stirrup for some time during each ride, -first at the canter, then at the trot, to make sure that too much -weight is not rested on this support, and that the rise is from the -right knee. If too much dependence is placed on the stirrup the seat -is sure to be too far to the left, unless the leather is too short, -when the body will be as much too far to the right, instead of -directly on top of the horse. - -If these directions are observed, a very firm seat will be the result, -which gives a confidence that enables one to be thoroughly flexible -above the waist without fear of going off, and dispels a dread that -often accounts for a stiff or crouching position. A test as to whether -one is sitting sufficiently close in the canter is to put a -handkerchief on the saddle, and note if the seat is firm enough to -keep it there. - - - - -IV - -IN THE SADDLE - - -[Illustration: INCORRECT LEFT LEG AND HEEL] - -[Sidenote: Below the Waist] - -The first impulse of a novice is to grasp the horse with her left -heel, while the leg is bent back from the knee so that it almost -reaches his flank. Instead of this, the leg from the knee, which -should not be more than half an inch below the pommel, must hang -naturally in a perpendicular line, and the foot parallel with the -horse, the heel being held away from his side and slightly depressed, -the ball of the foot resting on the stirrup. This alters the grip -entirely, and gives the greatest possible purchase, with the knee -firmly in the angle between the pommel and the saddle flap, the thigh -close to the saddle above, and the inside of the calf below, where one -should be able to hold a piece of paper without having it fall out -while trotting. The left foot will, of necessity, remain quiet--a most -desirable point often neglected. - -[Illustration: CORRECT LEFT LEG AND HEEL] - -Now for the right leg. The first direction usually given is to grasp -the pommel with it. That is all very well, but it leads to a grievous -error. In the endeavor to obey the order, the right knee is pressed -hard to the left--against the pommel, it is true, but in such a manner -that there is considerable space between the leg and the saddle, -extending from the knee half-way up the thigh. Thus the rider rises, -owing to her grip being too high, so that a person on the right can -often see the pommel beneath her. - -[Illustration: INCORRECT RIGHT THIGH AND KNEE] - -The first thing to do is to sit well back on the saddle, with the -shoulders square to the front, and press down from the hip to the knee -until as close to the saddle as possible. Then, when sure that the -knee is down, taking care that it does not leave the saddle in the -slightest degree, grasp the pommel. It is from this knee that one -must rise, and the most essential point is to have it absolutely firm, -with a secure hold on as extended a surface as possible. From the knee -the leg hangs straight, kept close to the horse, with the toe -depressed just enough to avoid breaking the line of the skirt. It is -seldom realized that the right leg below the knee should be held as -firmly against the horse as the left, but such is the case. - -[Illustration: CORRECT RIGHT THIGH AND KNEE] - -[Sidenote: Above the Waist] - -The body should be held erect at all times, the back straight while -rising, instead of appearing to collapse with each movement, or rising -from right to left with a churning motion instead of straight up and -down; shoulders should be level--the right one is inclined to be -higher than the left, as well as farther forward--well back and -equidistant from the horse's ears, chest expanded, and chin held near -the neck, as nothing is more unsightly than a protruding chin. The -arms should fall naturally at the sides, bending inward from the -elbow, but on no account to such an extent as to cause the elbows to -leave the sides or form acute angles. All stiffness should be avoided. - -Some difficulty may be experienced at first, though, in attempting to -relax the muscles above the waist while keeping the lower ones firm. A -little practice will accomplish this, and, as a stiff carriage is -most frequently the result of self-consciousness, it will be desirable -to practise where there are no spectators. As the woman becomes more -accustomed to riding she will lose some of her rigidity; but she must -not go to the other extreme and be limp or careless in her way of -holding herself. A woman's body should be at right angles to her -horse's back, neither inclining backwards nor giving evidence of a -tendency to stoop. Her anxiety to comply with these directions may -render her conscious and awkward for a while; but if she will -persevere, bearing them all in mind, they will become as second -nature, and she will follow them naturally and gracefully. - -[Sidenote: Hands and Wrists] - -The hands should be held about two thirds of the way back between the -right knee and hip, and as low as possible. They should be perfectly -steady, and in rising never communicate the motion of the body to the -horse's mouth. If the right knee is used to rise from, the seat will -not need to be steadied by the reins. In the canter, however, the -hands, as well as the body above the waist, should sway slightly with -the horse's stride, but not more than is necessary; for that, and -rising too high in the trot, give an appearance of exertion not -compatible with grace. - -[Illustration: CORRECT KNUCKLES, SIDE VIEW] - -[Illustration: INCORRECT POSITION OF HANDS] - -The wrists should be bent so that the knuckles point straight ahead -with the thumbs up, thus giving the horse's mouth play from the wrist, -instead of, as is often the case, from the shoulder, the former -admitting of much greater delicacy of handling, and the give-and-take -movement being not so easily observed. Most teachers instruct a pupil -to keep her finger-nails down, but this also necessitates all movement -coming from the shoulder, or else sticking out the elbows. - -[Illustration: HANDS IN GOOD FORM, FRONT VIEW] - -[Sidenote: Reins] - -Many hold their reins in the left hand, allowing the right to hang at -the side. This does not look well, and in case of an emergency, such -as stumbling, the hand being so far from the reins precludes the -possibility of rendering the quick assistance required. The reins -should be held in the left hand, but the right should be on them, -lightly feeling the horse's mouth, thereby anticipating his movements. - -The left snaffle-rein should go outside of the little finger, the left -curb between the little and third fingers, the right curb between the -third and middle fingers, and the right snaffle between the middle and -first fingers. They must all be brought through the hand, over the -second joint of the first finger, where they must lie flat and in -order, held there by the thumb. The third finger of the right hand -should rest on the right snaffle, leaving the first and second free -to use the curb if required, thus giving equal bearing on all four -reins. - -[Illustration: SNAFFLE OUTSIDE, CURB INSIDE, FRONT VIEW] - -If the use of the curb alone is wanted, the third finger of the right -should release the right snaffle, the first and second retaining their -hold on the curb, and the desired result will be produced. - -[Illustration: SNAFFLE OUTSIDE, CURB INSIDE, SIDE VIEW] - -If only the snaffle is desired, it may be brought to bear more -strongly by keeping hold of the right rein with the third finger of -the right hand, and reaching over on the left snaffle with the first -finger. - -When this method is pursued there is no necessity for shifting the -reins or hauling at them, and constantly changing their position and -length. When a rein has slipped through the fingers of the left hand, -instead of pushing it back from in front it should be pulled to the -proper length from back of the left hand. - -[Illustration: REINS IN TWO HANDS, SNAFFLE OUTSIDE, CURB INSIDE] - -It is quite correct, though inconvenient, to hold the reins in both -hands; but the hands should be held close together, with the thumbs -up, and always on the reins to prevent slipping. The little fingers -then separate the reins, the left snaffle being outside of the left -little finger, the left curb between the little and third fingers, -with the reins drawn over the first finger; the right snaffle outside -of the right little finger, the right curb between the little and -third fingers, and these also drawn over the first finger, in both -instances held by the thumbs. In this way the right reins may quickly -be placed in the left hand by inserting the middle finger of the left -hand between them without displacing the others. Sometimes the ends -of the left reins are passed over the first finger of the right hand -as well as of the left one, and carried on past the little finger, the -same being done to the right reins, thus giving additional purchase -should the horse pull. - -[Illustration: POSITION OF REINS AND HANDS IN JUMPING, CURB OUTSIDE, -SNAFFLE INSIDE] - -It is well to know several ways of holding the reins, and to practise -them all. For instance, the positions of the snaffle and curb may be -reversed; indeed, many expert riders always hold their reins with the -curb outside and the snaffle inside, especially in jumping, where the -curb is not used, and therefore requires a less prominent place in the -hand. - -[Illustration: REINS IN TWO HANDS, CURB OUTSIDE, SNAFFLE INSIDE, SIDE -VIEW] - -Another position of the reins is to have the middle finger of the left -hand separate the snaffle and the little finger the curb, both right -reins being above the left ones. However, unless a horse is -bridle-wise this plan is not a convenient one, because the right and -left reins alternate. A horse so trained may be guided by a turn of -the wrist. To turn him to the left the hand should be moved in that -direction, pressing the right reins against his neck, and to go to the -right the hand should be carried to that side, the thumb turned -downward, thus pressing the left reins against the horse's neck. - - - - -V - -EMERGENCIES - - -Although she may ride in good form, and, when her horse goes quietly, -feel at home in the saddle, no woman can be considered proficient -until she is prepared for any emergency, and knows how to meet it. - -[Sidenote: Eagerness to Start] - -Many horses show restlessness while being mounted, some carrying it to -such an extent as to back and rear or swerve most unpleasantly. The -groom at his head should hold him lightly but firmly by the snaffle, -or, better still, the cheeks of the bridle; not lugging or jerking at -him, but endeavoring to soothe him. If the horse swerves from her, he -should be made to stand against a wall. The woman must get settled in -the saddle as expeditiously as she can, not taking any unnecessary -time in the arrangement of her skirt, which might augment the animal's -uneasiness. Once mounted she must walk the horse quietly for a few -minutes, using the snaffle only, as his restlessness may have come -from expecting the spur on starting, as is customary with the horses -of those who care for display rather than good manners. Before long -she should dismount, and, at a different place, repeat the lesson -without fighting him, even should he fail to show much progress at -first. If he rears, the attendant should let go of his head until he -comes down; then, before starting, try to make him stand a few -moments. Each time the rider mounts she should increase the period of -his standing, doing it firmly while talking to him, but without -force or harshness, and presently he will obey as a matter of course -and without an idea of resistance. - -[Sidenote: Shyers] - -The most common fault of a horse is shying, and though no one who has -a secure seat should be inconvenienced thereby, its treatment needs -some discrimination. Shying often arises from defective vision. If, -however, the animal's eyes are in good condition, it may come from -timidity, but in either case the horse should be soothed and coaxed up -to the object of his aversion and shown its harmlessness. If it is -merely a trick, then playing with his mouth and speaking in a warning -tone when approaching anything likely to attract his notice will -usually make him go straight. As a rule the whip should not be used, -because the horse may learn to associate a blow with the object he -has shied at, and the next time he sees it is likely to bolt in order -to avoid the impending chastisement--thus going from bad to worse. - -[Sidenote: Stumblers] - -For the same reason, I object to a horse being punished for stumbling. -Disagreeable as it is, the fault usually comes from defective muscular -action or conformation, or from not being kept collected by his rider. -It is not fair to punish the horse for these causes. The thing to do -is to sit well back and give the reins a sharp pull to bring his head -up, and then keep him going up to the bit, for if the rider is -careless the horse will follow her example. - -[Illustration: HANDS AND SEAT IN REARING] - -[Sidenote: Rearers] - -A rearing horse is not fit for a woman to ride. If she finds herself -on one which attempts it, she must throw her weight forward and a -little to the right, because she can lean farther forward on this -than on the left side, to help the horse preserve his balance, as well -as to prevent being struck by his head. If necessary she can clutch -his mane, but on no account must she touch his mouth in the slightest -degree. As he comes down, a vigorous kick with the heel, a shake of -the snaffle, and a harsh exclamation may send him along. I cannot -advocate a woman's striking him, for if he has a temper, it may arouse -it to such an extent that he will throw himself back. - -[Sidenote: Plungers] - -Those with a strong seat have no reason to fear a horse that plunges, -if it does not develop into rearing or bucking. They should sit close -and urge the horse to a faster pace, as it stands to reason that if he -is kept going briskly he cannot so easily begin his antics as he could -at a slower gait. - -[Sidenote: Buckers] - -A woman is seldom if ever required to ride a horse which bucks, and if -he is known to do it viciously she had better not try any experiments -with him, as he will surely exhaust her in a fight. By bucking I do -not mean the mild form of that vice which is usually found under that -name in the East. Here an animal that plunges persistently and comes -down hard is said to buck; while if his head is lowered, that settles -the question in the minds of those ignorant of what a real bucking -horse is capable. In encountering the Eastern variety of this species, -the woman must elevate the horse's head, sit well back, and firmly -too, for even the mild form of bucking is not easy to sustain -undisturbed. - -The genuine article, the real Western bucker, is quite another -matter. Newspapers have published instances of women who have managed -to stay on one through all his various and blood-stirring antics; but -such cases are in fact unknown outside of Buffalo Bill's Wild West -Show, and there the animals have been taught to perform to order. When -the bronco bucks, he gives no preliminary warning by harmless -plunging; he simply throws his head down between his knees, humps his -back like a cat, and proceeds to business. He jumps into the air, -coming down to one side of where he started, with all four feet -bunched and legs stiffened, only to bound into space again. An -occasional squeal adds to the general hilarity of the scene, and the -alacrity with which that meek-looking mustang can land and go into the -air again would astonish one not accustomed to the sight. - -[Sidenote: Pullers] - -In riding a puller, his head must be kept in a correct position, -neither low nor high, by lightly feeling his mouth until he gives to -the motion. Should he have his head up and nose out, elevating the -hands and drawing the snaffle across the bars sometimes causes the bit -to bear in such a manner that the horse will drop his nose, and at -that moment an effort must be made to keep it there. This method is -exceptional, however, and should be resorted to only when other means -fail, and the horse's head is so high, with the nose protruding, that -the bit affords no control. Ordinarily, the hands should be low, one -on each side of the withers, and quietly feeling the snaffle until he -obeys its signal. - -If he pulls with his head down, almost between his knees, the curb -must not be touched, but the snaffle should be felt and the hands held -higher than usual and a little farther forward, playing with his -mouth. This may make him raise his head; but if not, then several -determined pulls, yielding the hand between them, given without temper -and with a few soothing words, may stop him. If he has the bit between -his teeth, quick give-and-take movements will probably surprise him -into releasing it. It is useless for a woman to try to subdue him by -force. - -It is well to have a horse's teeth examined for pulling, as one which -has become displaced or sensitive causes excessive pain, and often -results in this habit. When a horse shows a tendency to kick, by -putting his ears back or a peculiar wriggle of the body, his head must -instantly be pulled up and kept there, for in that position he will -not attempt it. - -[Sidenote: Runaways] - -A runaway nearly always frightens a woman so that she loses her head. -Composure will best enable her to escape without accident. As the -horse starts she must keep her heel well away from his side and her -hands down, and instantly begin sawing his mouth with the reins; then -a succession of sharp jerks and pulls should be resorted to--never a -dead pull--and possibly he may be brought down. - -Once well in his stride, no woman can stop a horse. She must then be -governed by circumstances, and, if in a crowd or park, try to keep him -clear of all objects, and not exhaust herself and excite the horse by -screaming. Some one will try to catch him; and as a terrific jerk will -be the result, she must brace herself for it. If the horse runs where -there is open country, and she is sure his running is prompted by -vice, not fright, she should urge him on when he tires and keep him -going up-hill or over heavy ground if possible, using the whip freely, -and not permit him to stop until he is completely done. - -There are some good riders who advise pulling a horse into a fence to -stop him, but there is always a chance of his attempting to jump it, -while, as the rider tries to prevent this, the horse may be thrown out -of his balance or stride and fall over the fence. If he is driven at a -high wall or other insurmountable obstruction the horse will stop so -suddenly that the rider is likely to be precipitated over the animal's -head, even if she have a good seat. Again, the horse may miscalculate -the distance and run into the object, perhaps seriously hurting -himself and his rider. If this method is to be employed, a grassy or -sandy embankment should be chosen, if possible, as there will then be -fewer chances of injury. - -Others believe in throwing the horse, which may be done by letting him -have his head for a few strides, then suddenly giving a violent tug at -the reins. If he can thus be made to cross his legs, he will go down. -Another way is for a woman to put all her strength into pulling one -rein, and if she can use enough force he may be twisted so that he -will lose his balance and fall. Then the danger is that a woman will -not get clear of him before he regains his footing and starts off, in -which case she might better have remained on his back than risk being -dragged at his heels. If some one else's horse is running instead of -the one she is on, and it is coming towards her, a woman should -instantly, but quietly, wheel her horse, and keep him as much to one -side of the road as possible; and if she is sure of her control over -him, a brisk canter will be the safest gait. Thus, if the runaway -strikes her horse, it will not be with the same force as it would had -they met from opposite directions. Besides, it is almost impossible to -tell which way a frightened horse may turn, and in endeavoring to -avoid him, if they are facing, a collision may result. - -If a horse falls, from crossing his legs for instance, to keep hold of -the reins must be the first thought, and then to get clear of him as -quickly as possible and out of his way if he seems likely to roll. If -the rider retains her hold on the reins, he cannot kick her, as his -head will be towards her; nor can he get away, leaving her to walk -home. - -[Sidenote: Punishment] - -Punishment of a horse should never be begun without the certainty that -what has given displeasure is really his fault, wilfully committed. -Even then a battle should always be avoided, if possible, for it is -better to spend a half-hour, or even much more, gently but firmly -urging a horse to obedience than to fight him. It sometimes drives him -to such a state of excitement and temper that the effects of it will -be perceptible for days, sometimes weeks, in a nervous, highly strung -animal, and he will, perhaps, prepare for a combat whenever the same -circumstances again arise. That which comes from misconception on the -part of the horse is often treated as though it were vice, and such -unjust chastisement, without accomplishing its object, bewilders and -frightens the unfortunate victim. Therefore one should know positively -that it is obstinacy or vice, not dulness or timidity, which has made -the horse apparently resist his rider's authority. A horse with much -temper may only be made worse by the punishment he undoubtedly -deserves; therefore, forbearance and ingenuity should be exercised to -bring him into submission. Discipline must be administered at the time -of insubordination, or it loses its meaning to the horse. It is folly -to postpone punishing him, for then he fails to connect it with the -act of resistance which has provoked it. - -Another great mistake, and one to be strongly censured, is that of -venting one's impatience or temper on the poor brute, which may be -doing its best to understand the clumsy and imperfect commands of a -cruel taskmaster. - -Having calmly decided that the horse requires punishment, it should be -given in a firm and temperate manner, no more severity being employed -than is necessary. However, the whip should fall with force and -decision, or it is worse than useless; and if a moderate amount of -whipping or spurring does not result in victory, it must be increased, -as, once begun, the fight must end in the conquest of the animal, or -the woman on his back will thenceforth be unable to control him. It -must be done dispassionately and continuously, and no time allowed him -to become more obstinate by a cessation of hostilities when he might -be about to give in. At the first sign of yielding, he should be -encouraged, and the punishment cease, until he has had an opportunity -to do what is desired of him. - -While using the whip, the right hand should never be on the reins, as -that necessitates jerking the horse's mouth and hitting from the -wrist, a weak and ineffectual method. The blow should fall well back -of the saddle and with the force given by the full swing of the arm. -A woman usually expends her energy in hitting the saddle-flap, making -some noise, to be sure, but not producing the desired effect. - -If these suggestions are followed, there will be comparatively little -trouble in learning to properly handle a horse that he may be kept up -to the mark. Until having laid a solid foundation for one's self, it -is useless to hope to obtain the best results from the horse, which -will surely appreciate and take advantage of any incompetency on the -part of the rider. Even if not aspiring to more than ordinary park -riding, attention to these hints will add so materially to the comfort -and safety of both horse and woman that it will be a subject of wonder -to the latter how she could have found the wrong way pleasant enough -to admit of any hesitation in giving the correct one at least a fair -trial. - - - - -VI - -CHOOSING A MOUNT - - -Much of a woman's comfort will depend on the horse she chooses. She is -too often inclined to procure a showy one, which pleases the eye, even -though she cannot control his antics, rather than a trustworthy and -less conspicuous mount. - -[Sidenote: An Adviser] - -In choosing a horse, she should not rely exclusively on her own -judgment. Few women are aware of the artifices resorted to by -dishonest dealers to render presentable some animal which in its -natural condition she would at once reject; therefore she should -enlist the services of some man in whose knowledge of horse-flesh she -has reason to place confidence, and of whose disinterestedness she is -certain. When a horse is found which appears to fulfil her -requirements, she should insist upon a trial of him herself; for, -although he may go well and comfortably with her friend, a woman might -not possess the qualities which had assured success in the former -trial by the man. The horse would recognize the difference, take -advantage of her inexperience or lack of skill, and act as he would -not think of doing under an expert. Furthermore, gaits which would -suit a man are often too hard for a woman, and a horse which he might -think merely went well up to the bit would to her weaker arms seem a -puller. - -After being approved of by her friend, the woman should try the animal -herself, outside, alone and in company. If he proves satisfactory, she -should endeavor to have him in her stable for a few days, and during -that time to have him examined by a veterinary surgeon, obtaining his -certificate of the horse's soundness. An animal absolutely sound and -without blemish is a rare sight; but there are many defects which do -not lessen the horse's practical value, although their presence lower -his price, and may enable her to secure something desirable which -would otherwise have been beyond her means. - -Such a horse should be accepted only after a thorough examination by -the veterinary, and upon his advice. It is well to avoid purchasing a -horse from a friend, unless one is perfectly familiar with the animal, -as such transactions frequently lead to strained relations, each -thinking bitterly of the other. Some, having pronounced their horse -sound, would take offence should a veterinary be called; while if he -were not consulted the horse might go wrong, and the purchaser would -perhaps think the former owner had disposed of him with that -expectation, or at least knowing the probability of it, yet their -social relations would prevent accusation or explanation. Furthermore, -a difference of opinion as to the price is awkward, and altogether it -requires more tact, discretion, and liberality than most people -possess to make a satisfactory horse-trade with a friend. - -Having decided as to whose advice she will take, a woman should not be -influenced by the comments and criticisms of others. If she waits -until all her friends approve of her choice she will never buy a -horse. However, by listening to what the best informed of them say, -she may gain much instruction and knowledge. As a woman may wish to -know what points are desirable in a horse, and what to look for, a -general idea of this may be welcome. It is only by comparison that she -will learn to distinguish whether certain parts are long or short, -normal or excessive, therefore she should critically notice horses at -every opportunity, and observe in what they differ from one another. - -[Sidenote: Park Hack] - -If a woman could have a Park hack made to order, the following points -would be the most prominent: A horse should always be up to more -weight than he will have to carry; and as, in the Park, appearances -are of importance, a woman should buy a horse on which she will look -well. Much will depend upon her mount being of an appropriate size and -build. A woman of medium size will look her best on a horse of about -15.2. No exact height can be fixed upon, as the present system of -measurement is so incomplete. - -[Sidenote: Measurement] - -A horse standing 15.2 at the withers, where it is always measured, may -be much higher there than anywhere else, his quarters being -disproportionately low. On the other hand, the withers might be low -and the rump high, giving the strength, power, and stride to a horse -of 15 hands which might be expected in one of several inches higher. -In races and shows it enables low-withered horses to run and compete -against those which, although high at the withers, have not the -posterior conformation to justify their being in the same class. The -more common-sense and accurate method of measurement, if it would only -be generally adopted, is to take the height at the withers and also at -the rump, average it, and call that the size of the horse. For -instance, a horse 15.3 at the withers and 15.2 at the rump should be -registered as measuring 15.2-1/2. The fashionably bred trotting horse -often measures higher at the rump than at the withers, while the -properly proportioned saddle horse should measure as high, or highest, -at the withers. - -In a saddle horse there are other points than height to be considered. -If the woman is stout, the horse should be of substantial build, very -compact, and like a cob. If she is slight, she will look best on a -horse of light build and possessed of quality. - -In my opinion, three quarters, or a trifle more, thoroughbred blood -makes the pleasantest mount for a woman. Five to seven is a good age -at which to buy a horse, as he will then have been through the early -ailments of young horses and be just entering his prime. - -[Sidenote: Conformation] - -As to his points, his head should be small and clear-cut, with -delicately pointed ears, prominent eyes, a fine muzzle, full nostrils, -clean-cut angle at the throttle, and the head carried somewhat less -than vertical to the ground; the crest curved, and the neck thin and -supple, but muscular and well set on to broad shoulders. These should -be long and oblique, thus reducing the concussion and making the horse -easier to ride as well as safer, because his forelegs are -proportionately advanced, giving less weight in front of them to cause -a fall should he trip. The true arms (commonly called lower bones of -the shoulders), extend from the points of the shoulders to the elbows, -and should be short, or the forelegs will be placed too far back. The -forearms, extending from the elbows to the knees, should be large and -muscular and rather long. Broad, flat knees are indicative of -strength, and they should have considerably more width than the -forearms or the shanks. - -Below the knees and to the fetlocks the legs should be rather short, -flat, deep, and fine, no swelling to prevent one from feeling -distinctly, especially near the fetlocks, the tendons and ligaments -quite separate from the shanks or cannons and the splint-bones. The -fetlock-joints much developed give evidence of overwork, therefore any -undue prominence is not desirable. Long, slanting pasterns give -elasticity to a horse's gait and prevent disagreeable concussion; but -if the length is excessive, there will be too much strain on the back -tendons. The fetlocks reach to the coronet, below which are the feet, -which must be of good shape and absolutely sound. - -The thorax must be either broad or deep and full, so that the lungs -and heart may have plenty of room to expand. It should be well -supplied with muscle where the forelegs are joined to it, and these -should be straight, with the feet pointing straight ahead. The toe -should be under the point of the shoulder. High withers are preferred -to low ones, but if they are too high they place a side-saddle at an -uncomfortable angle, which needs an objectionable amount of padding at -the back to rectify the fault. The back should not sink perceptibly, -but it may be somewhat longer in a woman's horse than in a man's, as -her saddle occupies so much more space; but the ribs should be long in -front and short back of the girth, running well up to the hips. This -conformation will prevent the saddle from working forward; a tendency -to slip back may be checked by using a breast-plate. - -A horse should be broad across the loins; if these are strong, and the -horse well ribbed up, there will be no unsightly sinking of the flanks -even in front of hips that are broad, as they should be. The thighs -extend from the lower part of the haunches or hips to the -stifle-joints, and these and the haunches are covered with powerful -muscles, which, when well developed, form strong quarters. A -well-placed tail, carried at a correct angle, adds greatly to a -horse's appearance. From the stifles to the hocks are found the lower -thighs, and these should be long and strong. The hocks should be -prominent, clearly defined, and free from all puffiness or swelling. -From the hocks to the fetlocks the leg should descend perpendicularly, -neither bent under him nor back of him. The same rule applies to these -fetlocks as to the fore ones; and the same may be said of the feet, -but the latter are too important to dismiss without further comment. - -The hoofs when on the ground should be at an angle of about forty-five -degrees from the toe to the coronet. Any unevenness or protrusions on -the wall of the hoofs, or a sinking-in at the quarters, should be -viewed with suspicion. Breadth is desirable at the heels, and the bars -should not be cut away. The frog should be nearly on a level with the -shoes, and the soles should be slightly concave. - -[Sidenote: Hunter] - -If a hunter is to be chosen, looks are not of so much importance, -although I like him to be almost if not quite thoroughbred. However, -if the animal can gallop and jump, has good staying qualities and a -strong constitution, a kind disposition and a light mouth, good -manners and plenty of power, he should not be discarded because he -lacks beauty. A large head, ewe neck, ragged hips, rat-tail, poor -coat, and other such ungainly points, are not bad enough to condemn -him if he has the other qualities I have mentioned; and often a -peculiarly shaped animal will out-jump a horse of the most correct -conformation. - -[Sidenote: Gait and Manners] - -After carefully looking over the horse, a woman should have some one -trot and canter him, to see that his action is what she wants. A Park -hack should have free, easy gaits, with good knee and hock action, and -travel evenly and without brushing, cutting, interfering, dishing, or -showing any such irregularities of gait. She should watch him from in -front, from behind, and at the sides; and, after his trial by a man, -the woman should ride him, and find out what his faults are under the -saddle. His manners should be perfect: no sign of bolting, or -rearing, or other vices; nor should he be a star-gazer, nor lug on the -bit, as a good mouth is very essential to her comfort. - -However, if he is green--that is, unaccustomed to his surroundings and -to being ridden--he should not be rejected without a fair trial, to -ascertain whether his cramped gait, shying, and other such failings -are the result of inexperience under the saddle, or are established -traits. The most desirable points are a light but not over-sensitive -mouth, even gait, with swinging (not jerky or shuffling) action, a -kind disposition--with which quality considerable friskiness need not -condemn him--good manners, and freedom from tricks and vices. He -should be practically sound and of correct conformation--a more -valuable attribute for safety and ease than high action. - - - - -VII - -DRESS - - -Simplicity is the rule for the habit. It should be of Thibet -cloth--black, dark brown, or blue for winter, tan or a medium shade of -gray for summer. All conspicuous colors and materials are to be -avoided. It is well to have the skirt made of a heavy-weight cloth, -which will help to make it set properly without the assistance of -straps; while the bodice may be of a medium weight of the same cloth, -that it may fit better and be less bulky. For very warm weather in the -country a habit made of heavy gingham or white duck is cool and -comfortable, and will wash. The skirt and bodice may be of the same -material, or a silk or cheviot shirt and leather belt may be worn -with the skirt. A straw sailor-hat completes this convenient -innovation, but it should be reserved for use out of town. - -[Sidenote: Skirt] - -The skirt should reach only far enough to cover the left foot, and be -too narrow to admit of any flowing folds. Fashion and safety both -demand this. A skittish horse is often frightened by a loose skirt -flapping at his side. - -[Sidenote: Safety Skirt] - -I should be very glad to see the safety skirt, which is worn in the -hunting-field, adopted in general riding. Its advantages are manifold. -Although it appears the same, less cloth is used, therefore it is -cooler; there is nothing between the pommel and the breeches, thus -improving the hold, and in case of accident it is impossible to be -dragged. There are several kinds in use, but the less complicated the -more desirable it is. The simplest is made like any other skirt, -except that where the pommels come there is a large piece of the cloth -cut out, extending in a circle at the top, and then straight down, at -both sides, so that there is no cloth near the pommels or where it -could catch in case of a fall. This leaves enough to extend under both -legs when in the saddle, and looks like an ordinary one. Under the -right knee, where the skirt is rounded out, a small strip of cloth -buttons from this point on to the piece which is under the leg; this -and an elastic strap on the foot keep it in place; but neither is -strong enough to stand any strain, therefore would not be dangerous in -a fall. - -Another pattern has eyelet holes made on each side from where the -cloth has been taken, and round silk elastic laced through them, thus -preventing the possibility of disarrangement. Both of these skirts -loop at the back, and can be kept from appearing unlike others if the -wearer will immediately fasten them on dismounting. An ordinary skirt -may be made safer by having no hem. - -[Sidenote: Divided Skirt] - -We hear a great deal now of the divided skirt, and the advisability of -women riding astride. The theory is good, as having a leg each side of -the animal gives much greater control over his movements. - -For most women, however, it is impracticable, since they cannot sit -down in the saddle and grip with their knees as they should, owing to -the fact that their thighs are rounded, instead of flat like a man's. -It might be possible for a lean and muscular woman to acquire a secure -seat, but not for the average one. Being short is another drawback to -a strong seat against which most of them would have to contend. This -is particularly trying, as so much of her weight is above the waist, -making it difficult to ride from balance, which might otherwise -replace the deficient leverage of the short thigh. Again, if on a -large or broad horse, the constant strain on the muscles necessary -when astride him must be injurious. - -Aside from any physical reasons, the position for a woman is, in my -opinion, most ungraceful and undignified, while few of them possess -the strength to profit by the changed seat in forcing the horse up to -his bridle or keeping him collected; and I cannot blame those who -think it open to the charge of impropriety. - -[Sidenote: Bodice] - -The bodice should be single-breasted, long over the hips, reaching -almost to the saddle in the back, and cut away in front to show a -waistcoat, the upper edge of which makes a finish between the collar -and lapels of the waist and the white collar and Ascot or -four-in-hand. The waistcoat gives more of an opportunity for the -exercise of individual taste. The most desirable, I think, has a white -background, on which is a black, brown, blue, or red check. It may be -all tan or a hunting pink, plain, figured, or striped, so long as too -many colors are not combined; but, as a rule, something quiet and -simple will be the most desirable. In summer a pique waistcoat is -worn, or something similar, that is light, cool, and will wash. A -black or white cravat always looks well, or one which, without being -glaring, harmonizes with the waistcoat. - -[Sidenote: Waistcoat] - -Sense, health, and comfort all demand that the waist shall not be -laced to the painful extent endured by many foolish and vain women. -They would let out an inch or two if they could realize that the blood -is forced from their waists to their faces, making them scarlet at any -exertion, while they have difficulty in conversing except in gasps, -and are compelled to walk their horses at frequent intervals to catch -their breath. - -[Sidenote: Corsets] - -It is so invigorating to feel the lungs expanded by a long, deep -breath, and the blood, quickened by the motion of the horse, coursing -unrestrained through all the veins, while the muscles of the back and -abdomen are allowed full play, that those who go along panting and -aching lose half the beneficial effects of riding, and more pleasure -than they can possibly derive from trying to make people believe that -they have small waists. The corsets are of great importance and must -be of good quality and not very stiff, small bones being used instead -of large ones or steels. They must be short in front and over the -hips, that the movements may not be unnecessarily restricted, or the -skin become raw from rubbing against the ends of the bones. A plain -corset-cover should be worn over them, as the lining of the -habit-waist sometimes discolors the corsets if this precaution is not -taken. - -[Sidenote: Boots, Breeches, Tights] - -Considerable latitude is permitted a woman in the choice of what she -shall wear under her skirt. Boots and breeches are considered better -form than shoes and trousers; but there is no reason why the latter -should not be used, especially if the shoes lace. Boots and tights, -however, are the most comfortable of all. Breeches are made of -stockinette, re-enforced with chamois skin, and reach half-way down -the calf, where they should button close to the leg--the buttons -being on the left side of each leg, that the right may not be bruised -by the buttons pressing against the saddle. Chamois skin is sometimes -used to make breeches, but it is not very satisfactory. At first they -are soft and pliable, but after being worn a few times they become -stiff and unyielding, and rain will render them hard as boards. - -Tan box-cloth gaiters, extending from the instep almost to the knee, -are sometimes worn with breeches and shoes. They are made exactly like -those for men, and take the place of boots. Boots may be of calf-skin -or patent leather, with wrinkled or stiff legs, the tops reaching a -few inches above the bottom of the breeches. In warm weather tan boots -are often worn; but, of whatever variety they may be, they should -always be large, with broad, thick soles and low, square heels. - -Trousers are of the same material as the skirt, and are also -re-enforced. Elastic bands passing under the shoes keep the trousers -down. Tights should be of the color of the habit, and fit smoothly -without being stretched. They come in different weights, and either -silk, cotton, or wool may be worn. They should have feet woven on -them, thus doing away with the necessity for all underclothing below -the waist. - -When breeches or trousers are worn, tights may advantageously be -substituted for the other usual garments worn under such conditions. -If tights are not worn, whatever replaces them should fit snugly and -be without starch or frills. The stockings should be kept up from the -waist, as garters chafe the knee when it presses the pommel, and -often interfere with the circulation. Some women wear union garments, -which are practically tights extending from the neck to the feet, -taking the place of shirts. However, when a shirt is worn it will be -most comfortable if of a light-weight wool. This absorbs the -perspiration, and is therefore pleasanter to wear than silk, and more -likely to protect from a cold. Outside of this should be the corset. - -When it is cold a chamois-skin waist with long sleeves should be worn -under the bodice, as this is much better than a fur cape, which is -often used, and which confines the arms. A covert coat is the most -convenient, but the former is more readily obtained. A wool shirt, -short corsets, plain corset-cover, and tights are all the -underclothing needed for riding. Some women wear a linen shirt, with -collar and cuffs attached, like a man's, except that it is narrowed -at the waist. With this the corset-cover is not needed. - -[Sidenote: Collars and Cuffs] - -Separate collars and cuffs are more generally used, and the scarf -should be pinned to the collar at the back, as these have a way of -parting company that is most untidy. To make it more certain, a clasp -or pin such as men use to hold a four-in-hand tie in place should -fasten the ends of the scarf to the shirt-front or corset-cover, thus -securing it against slipping. - -The cuffs should not be pinned to the sleeve, as the lining of the -coat will be torn, and the pin will catch on the habit and stretch and -roughen it in places. A small elastic band put over a button at the -wrist of the sleeve, and attached to the cuff-button, will answer -every purpose. - -[Sidenote: Gloves] - -Gauntlets should be discarded, and gloves worn large enough to admit -of the muscles of the hand being used freely. Dogskin of a reddish -shade of tan is the best material for gloves. The stitching is such as -to form slight ridges of the glove itself on the back of the hand, the -red stitches being scarcely perceptible at a little distance. It is -difficult to find women's gloves broad enough for comfort in riding, -and it is a good plan to buy boys' gloves, which give the desired -freedom. They have only one button, an advantage over women's, which -have two or three that are in the way under the cuff. - -Should the wrists need more protection from the cold, wristlets may be -worn, as they take up but little room. For cold weather, gloves come -in a softer kid, like chevrette, and have a fleecy lining, very warm, -but too soft and light to make the gloves clumsy. Flowers and jewelry -are decidedly out of place on horseback, and a handkerchief should -never be thrust into the front of the bodice. It should be put in the -slit on the off saddle-flap, or in the pocket at the left side of the -skirt where it opens. - -[Sidenote: Hair and Hat] - -The hair should be firmly coiled or braided on the neck, and not worn -on top of the head. A top hat is correct, especially on formal -occasions, but it should not be allowed to slip to the back of the -head. However, I prefer usually a derby, as being more comfortable and -looking more business-like. It should be kept on by an elastic which -fastens under the hair. Pins through the crown are an uncalled-for -disfigurement, and a hat may be made just as secure without them. In -fact, they will be of but little use if the hair is not done high. A -large hair-pin on each side should pin the hair over the elastic; and -if the wind or anything else causes the hat to become displaced, it -will not come off entirely, forcing some one to dismount and restore -it to the woman, who cannot get it alone. Hair-pins should be long and -bent half-way up each prong, so that they will not easily slip out. - -[Sidenote: Veil] - -[Sidenote: Whip or Crop] - -When a veil is worn, it should be of black net or gauze, never white -or figured, and the ends should be neatly pinned out of sight, instead -of being allowed to float out behind, like smoke from a steam-engine. -If a whip is carried for use, it should be a substantial stiff one, -held point down, not a flimsy thing that a sound blow will break, nor -should it be made absurd by a bow or tassel being tied to it. If for -style, then a crop is the correct thing, with the lash-end held up. -The handle should be of horn, rather than silver or gold, and the -stick quite heavy and somewhat flexible. Short bamboo sticks are in -favor just now, and are often tipped with gold, and have a gold band a -few inches from the end where it is held. - -[Illustration: CROP] - -[Sidenote: Spur] - -I do not approve of a spur for women, as it is difficult to use it -just right, and its unintentional application often has disastrous -results, while should she be dragged by the foot, it will keep hitting -the horse, urging him faster and faster. In mounting, the spur -sometimes strikes the horse, making him shy just as the rider expects -to reach the saddle, and a nasty fall is the consequence. Where a man -would use it advantageously, a woman cannot produce the same effect, -having it only on one side. Moreover, a horse suitable for her to ride -should not require more than her heel and her whip. - -[Illustration: A GOOD SPUR] - -Some horses are very cunning, and will shirk their work if they -discover that there is no spur to urge them, but such may be taught -that a whip in skilful hands is quite as effective. In a crowd a spur -is of value, as it may be applied noiselessly, and without danger of -startling other horses, as a whip will do. In leaping, a spur on one -side of the horse and the whip on the other form a combination which -will often compel him to jump when, from sulkiness or indolence, he -has been refusing. - -It requires some practice, however, to use it in the right place and -at the right moment; a woman's skirt has an unhappy faculty of -intercepting the spur when it should strike him, and her heel of -hitting the horse when it should leave him alone. For these reasons I -am in favor of women riding without a spur when it is possible, for, -although it looks well as a finish to a boot, its adoption by inexpert -riders may lead to sad results. - -If a spur is to be worn, there are several kinds from which to choose. -I prefer a box-spur with a rowel, such as men use, but having a -guard, which prevents it from catching in the habit, and lessens the -probabilities of its unintentionally punishing a horse. When it is -applied with force, the rowel comes through the guard, which works on -a spring, and upon releasing the pressure the guard again protects the -sharp rowel. They may be of the kind that fit in a box which has been -put in the heel of the boot, or they may have straps and buckle over -the instep. - - - - -VIII - -LEAPING - - -[Sidenote: Requirements] - -When a woman has attained some degree of proficiency in the saddle, -she will probably desire to perfect herself in riding by learning to -leap. Her equestrian education cannot be considered complete without -this, but she should not attempt it until she has learned thoroughly -how to ride correctly on the road. A secure seat, light hands, a cool -head, quick perception, judgment, and courage form a combination which -will enable her in a short time to acquire skill in jumping. Few women -possess all these qualities, but an effort should be made to obtain as -many of them as possible before trying to jump. - -[Sidenote: In the Ring] - -The first lessons should be on a horse which has been well trained to -this work and requires no assistance from his rider. He should inspire -confidence, and jump easily and surely rather than brilliantly. I -think it is well to begin in a school over bars, as there the rider is -not under the necessity of choosing a good take-off or landing, and is -thus free to give undivided attention to herself. - -[Sidenote: Approaching Jump] - -Three feet is high enough to put the bars at the start; or they may be -even lower should the rider feel timid. As she approaches the jump she -must sit firmly in the middle of the saddle (not hanging either to the -right or to the left, thereby upsetting the horse's balance), and she -must look straight at the obstacle, with her head up and her body -thrown a trifle back. The reins should at first be held in both -hands, for several reasons. It lessens the chances of sitting crooked, -and it prevents throwing up the right arm as the horse jumps--a common -and unsightly practice, calculated to frighten him and distract his -attention from his work, and to jerk his mouth, while it has no -redeeming features. In addition to this, when the horse lands, the -reins are not so liable to slip through two hands as through one. - -Approaching the jump, the horse should break into a moderate canter, -and the only rule his rider will be likely to remember at the first -trial will be to "lean back as he jumps and give him his head." As she -becomes accustomed to the action, her attention must be called to -details. While nearing the jump, she must keep her hands low, and just -feel her horse's mouth with the snaffle without interfering with it -or shifting her hold on the reins. Quiet, steady hands are -indispensable to success. - -[Illustration: TAKING OFF] - -[Sidenote: Taking off] - -[Sidenote: Landing] - -By watching his stride one can tell when he will take off. At that -moment he will stretch out his neck; then she must, by instantly -pushing them forward, let her hands yield to his mouth. This must be -accurately calculated, for should the pressure on his mouth be varied -too suddenly and at the wrong time, it would throw him out of his -stride by letting go of his mouth when he needed steadying. Some -advocate leaning forward before leaning back as the horse takes off, -but the slight involuntary motion communicated to the body by -thrusting the hands forward will be sufficient to precede the backward -movement. Before he has finished his effort, she must lean back just -enough (but no farther) to avoid being thrown forward by the action -of his quarters or by the angle at which he comes down. Her left heel -should not come in contact with him after he has taken off, although -she may strike him with it to urge him on if he goes at the jump too -slowly. Below the waist she must be firm and immovable; above, -yielding and flexible. As the horse lands, she regains her upright -position, and should be careful that he does not pull the reins -through her fingers. Under all circumstances she must have too firm a -hold on the reins to admit of such an occurrence. If the horse -stumbles at the moment of landing, he needs the support of her hands; -or should he bolt, it must not be necessary to pull in the slack rein -before being able to check him. - -[Sidenote: Lifting] - -One of the most erroneous theories extant is that it is desirable to -"lift" a horse at his fences. Doing so only necessitates carrying the -weight of his rider's hands on his mouth, and risks pulling the horse -into the jump, while he is hindered from stretching his neck, as he -must to land safely and correctly. Hanging on to his mouth is often -the cause of a horse's landing on all four feet at once, or dropping -too close to the jump. The pull on the reins holds him back, thus -inducing these bad habits, and will often make him refuse or dread to -jump, knowing that it entails a sharp jerk on his sensitive mouth. To -a casual or ignorant observer it sometimes looks as though a good -rider were "lifting" his horse; but it only appears so because, -knowing intuitively at just what instant his hands must yield, he so -accurately gives to the animal's mouth that the action of the horse's -mouth and the rider's hands is simultaneous. - -[Illustration: ABOUT TO LAND] - -[Sidenote: Out of Doors] - -After some practice in the ring, a woman may try jumping out-of-doors, -for inside there is not a sufficient variety of obstacles; and she -should then have a breast-plate attached to her saddle. By this time -she should, in jumping, hold her reins in one hand, the snaffle -inside, curb outside, and quite loose. As she goes towards a jump, her -right hand should be placed in front of the left on the snaffle to -steady the horse. In this way she can remove it without leaving an -uneven pressure on the horse's mouth, as would be the case if, as is -customary, her hand had rested on the two right reins, then been -suddenly withdrawn in order to urge the horse with the whip, or to -protect the face from overhanging branches. - -[Sidenote: Pilot] - -The most favorable conditions under which a woman may begin jumping -in the country are when she can go across fields with a capable pilot -to give her a lead over some easy timber or walls. She must never -forget to see that the horse in front of her is well away from the -fence before she jumps, or she will risk landing on top of him if he -makes a mistake; or if he refuses, her horse, if too near, would be -forced to do likewise. She should not allow herself to become -dependent on the services of a pilot, or let her horse become -accustomed to jumping only when he has a lead; therefore she must -learn to choose a panel of the fence for herself. - -[Sidenote: Selecting a Panel] - -Supposing the fences to be moderate, she must decide, as she canters -towards the first, where she will jump, and there are a number of -considerations by which she must be governed. First, to find a panel -which is low, for in riding across country it is wise to save one's -mount, as all his strength may be needed at a big place later on. Then -the take-off must be looked to, sound level turf being chosen if -possible; and if the landing is plainly visible, so much the better. A -moderately thick top rail is often safer to put a horse at than a very -thin round one, which is liable to be a sapling, that will not break -if a horse tries to crash through it, as he is sometimes tempted to do -by its fragile appearance. - -It is well to send a horse at the middle of a panel; for, should he -hit it, this, being the weakest spot, may break, while should he hit -nearer the end, where it is strong, he may be thrown. Such details as -these she will observe instinctively with a little practice. Having -decided where she will jump, her horse's head must be pointed straight -at the place, and her mind must not waver. If the rider is determined -to go, and has no misgivings, the horse is sure to be inspired with -the same confidence. - -Having once put him at a panel, she should avoid changing her mind -without good reason, as her uncertainty will be imparted to him. A -fence such as described is jumped just as are the bars in the ring; -safely over it, the next obstacle must be examined. - -[Sidenote: Stone Wall] - -If it be a stone wall, it may often be taken in one of two -places--either where it is high and even, or where it is lower and -wide, because of the stones which have fallen from the top. In the -first instance it should be jumped in a collected manner, but at a -slower pace than the second requires. At the latter some speed is -necessary, as the horse must jump wide enough to avoid the rolling -stones on both sides. - -[Sidenote: In Hand] - -Few riders remember that it is as important to keep a horse collected -when going fast as at any other time. When he is hurried along, no -chance is given him to measure his stride or get his legs well under -him, but he is nevertheless expected to take off correctly and clear -the obstacle. - -A good rider will always have her horse well in hand, and never hustle -him at his fences, even if she goes at them with considerable speed. - -[Sidenote: Trappy Ground and Drops] - -If the take-off looks treacherous, or is ploughed or muddy, the horse -should be brought to it at a trot, well collected, and allowed to take -his time at it. - -When the ground approaching the jump is uphill, or descending, the -same tactics should be pursued, and unlimited rein given the horse. On -encountering a drop on the far side of a fence or wall, a woman must -lean back as far as possible, leaving the reins long, but ready to -support the horse's head as he lands. At a trappy place, where, for -instance, there might be a broken-down fence among some trees, -overgrown with vines and bushes, the horse must be taken quietly and -slowly and made to crawl through the gap. His rider will even then -have enough trouble in keeping her feet clear of the vines, and in -preventing the branches from hitting her face, which she could not do -if a jump were made with a rush. If her horse carries his head high, -she can probably pass where it has been without injury by leaning -forward over his withers, to the right, and raising her right arm to -ward off the branches with her whip or crop. - -[Sidenote: In-and-out] - -Sometimes she will not notice a limb or other obstruction until almost -under it, when it will be necessary for her to lean back, resting her -shoulders on the horse's quarters. Under these circumstances it is -most important that her right arm should guard her eyes from pieces of -bark or other falling particles. Where two fences are within a few -feet of each other, forming an "in-and-out," the pace needs to be -carefully regulated. If the horse goes very fast, he will jump so wide -that he will land too close to the second fence to take off as he -should. Therefore if he is rushing, his stride must be shortened and -his hind-legs brought well under him. - -On the other hand, he must not go so slowly that all impetus for the -second effort is lost, as he would then be likely to refuse. It is -difficult to turn him in so short a space and get him into his stride -before he is called upon to jump. - -At a ditch or stream considerable speed is needed to gain the momentum -necessary to cover the distance, and the horse must have plenty of -rein given him. - -[Sidenote: Picket and Slat Fences] - -A picket fence is usually regarded as a very formidable obstacle, but -if negotiated properly it is no worse than others. It should be taken -at a good rate of speed, for the danger is that the horse will get -hung up on it and be cut with the points by not having enough impetus. -It is not so dangerous to hit this fence in front, for it is frail and -the top of the pickets will snap off at the binder if hit with force. -A slat fence is more to be dreaded, on account of the ledge on the top -of it formed by the binder. This should be taken with deliberation, as -the thing to be guarded against is having the horse hit his knees on -the ledge which protrudes a couple of inches beyond the fence. The -lower slats give way easily if they are approached from the side where -the posts are; if from the opposite direction, they are braced against -the posts and offer great resistance. - -[Sidenote: Wire] - -Any fence that has wire on it should be avoided if possible, unless -the horse has been trained to jump it. When it extends along the top -of a fence, the horse should be made to jump a post, as it is not safe -to count on his seeing the wire. If the fence is made of strands of -wire, with only a binder of timber, it should be taken slowly, so that -the horse will not attempt to crash through it, under the impression -that it is a single bar. - -[Sidenote: Combined Obstacles] - -A stone wall having a rail on top must be taken in the horse's stride, -for considerable swing is required, as there is width as well as -height to clear. When a ditch is on the near side of a wall or fence, -the horse should be allowed time to see it. When it is on the landing -side, he should be sent at it fast enough to carry him safely over. - -Thus far I have been supposing that the horse has gone without a -mistake. Under these circumstances he should not be struck--just to -encourage him, as some maintain--or he will grow to dislike jumping if -associated with a blow. - -No woman who rides much can expect to be always so perfectly mounted; -therefore, a few suggestions as to what she should do in emergencies -may be of practical value. - -[Sidenote: Refusing] - -[Sidenote: Timidity] - -The most common fault of the jumper is refusing, and it must be dealt -with according to its cause. If it arises from weakness in the hocks, -the horse hesitating to propel himself by them, or from weak knees, -or corns that cause him to dread the concussion of landing, he should -not be forced to jump--it is both cruel and unsafe. If he be sound and -well, and the fence not beyond his capabilities, the rider must know -whether the disinclination to jump comes from timidity or from temper. -She will soon learn to distinguish between the two, but it is -difficult to lay down any rule for recognizing the difference. If she -thinks it is for the former reason, the cause may be that he was not -in his stride when he should have taken off, and was allowed to sprawl -as he cantered. She should take him back and keep him well collected, -making him take short, quick strides in the canter, measuring the -distance, and giving him his head when he should take off. If he seems -inclined to swerve or hesitate, the whip, applied just when he should -rise, will often prevent his stopping. When over, a caress and a word -of praise will greatly encourage him. - -[Sidenote: Temper] - -Temper is a very different and a very difficult thing to manage. -Coaxing and ingenuity may accomplish something; turning him short at -another place will often surprise him into jumping before he realizes -it. The human voice has great power over animals, and a few loud, -sharp exclamations, with a quick use of the whip, may make him take -off when otherwise he would have refused. A really obstinate horse, -having made up his mind not to jump, needs such a thrashing as a woman -is seldom able to give him. If she begins it, she must keep it up -until she has conquered him, or he will try the same trick constantly. - -As a horse almost invariably turns to the left when he refuses, a -sharp crack on the near shoulder, being unusual and unexpected, -sometimes prevents his turning. When, in one way or another, he -finally has been forced to yield, he should be rewarded by a few words -of approval. At the next fence a firm hold, keeping his head straight -and his legs well under him, will be of more service than a whip, -unless he refuses again, when the lesson must be repeated. - -[Sidenote: Rider at Fault] - -At least half of the refusals are the fault of the rider, and it is -most unjust to punish a horse at such times. Unfortunately, conceit is -such a common failing that few of us are willing to acknowledge -ourselves in the wrong, therefore the poor horse suffers for our -error. The timid rider sends the horse at an obstacle in such a -half-hearted way that he does not know whether he is expected to jump -or not; or, feeling his rider waver, he imagines there must be unknown -dangers connected with the place, and so hesitates to encounter them. -One of a woman's frequent failings is shifting the reins as she nears -a jump. This form of nervousness is very disconcerting to a horse, and -takes his mind from the work in front of him. - -Lack of skill makes one lug at a horse's mouth just as he is getting -ready to jump, thus throwing him out of his stride and frustrating his -effort. After one or two refusals, a woman often puts her horse at the -place in a mechanical way, fully expecting the animal to stop, and -doing nothing to guard against such an occurrence. If she would -instead then summon all her courage, and determine to go either over -or through the fence, and ride at it with resolution, the horse would -be infected with her spirit and probably clear the obstacle, as he -would have done at first had his rider's heart then been in the right -place. In such cases it does not seem fair to punish a horse for our -own want of nerve. - - - - -IX - -LEAPING--(_Continued_) - - -[Sidenote: Rushers] - -On a horse which rushes when put at a jump, the use of the whip will -only make matters worse. This habit of rushing comes most frequently -from the horse having been frightened while being taught to jump, -either by extreme harshness and punishment or from having hurt himself -severely. Even if it comes from viciousness, quiet, kind treatment -will do more to eradicate the tendency than coercive measures. - -Such a horse should be walked towards a fence until within half a -dozen strides of it. This can best be achieved by not indicating that -he will be expected to jump, but by approaching it as though by -chance. Otherwise the restraint will make him the more unmanageable -when he does start. He should be induced to stand a few moments, while -his rider strokes him and talks to him in a soothing way. The snaffle -should then be gradually and quietly shortened until there is a light -but firm feeling on the reins, when a pressure of the leg (not of the -heel, which might suggest a spur) will put him to a trot. If the hands -be held low and steady and the voice be soft and pacifying, they will -probably prevail upon him to trot all the way, although he may break -into a canter a stride before the jump. When over it he should be -gently, not sharply, pulled up, and coaxed to walk again, or, better -still, to trot slowly. When he has learned to jump from the trot he -will soon do so from a slow canter, which will be more trying for him, -as it has a closer resemblance to the gait at which he has been in -the habit of rushing, and he will therefore be inclined to return to -his old failing. - -[Sidenote: Balkers] - -Sometimes a horse will not go near a fence, and on being urged will -back or rear. If he persists in backing, his head should be turned -away from the jump, and when he finds his movements only bring him -nearer the fence, he will stop. If then he is made to wheel suddenly, -and can be kept going by whip or spur, he will be likely to jump. -Should he, instead, face the direction in which he should go, and rear -whenever an attempt is made to urge him forward, the whip only -inciting him to rear higher, the woman who hopes to triumph over him -must resort to strategy; she must not whip him, at the risk of his -falling back on her. - -A ruse which may prove successful is to occupy his attention by -playing with his mouth while he is allowed to go diagonally towards -the fence. He will be apt to concede this point, in the hope of -bolting alongside of it; but when he has been inveigled into a closer -proximity to the jump, even if he be parallel to it, and before he has -time to divine his rider's intention, he should be turned sharply to -the fence. He must be ridden at it resolutely and with a firm hand, -while a determined swing of the body, corresponding to his stride, -conveys to his mind the impression that he will be forced to jump. If -he can be kept moving forward, he cannot rear; therefore, should he -attempt to swerve or bolt, a blow from the whip will keep him -straight, and when he should take off, another will guard against a -refusal. - -[Sidenote: Sluggards] - -A sluggish animal calls for constant watching, as he cannot be -trusted at small places any more than at large ones. He is always -liable to rap, or even fall, at his fences, because of the careless, -slovenly manner in which he moves. He should be forced up to the bit, -and kept active by the whip, the noise of which is desirable in his -case, as it will assist in rousing him. If his laziness or sulkiness -is such that he will endeavor to crash through fences, he is not -suitable for any woman to ride. He may miscalculate his power and come -in contact with a rail which withstands his weight, when a fall will -ensue. - -In this case the lunging-rein should be resorted to, and, either in a -ring or out-of-doors, the horse should be put over some stiff bars, -that he may learn he will be hurt if he touches them. I do not approve -of intentionally throwing him by pulling him in the jump; there are -too many chances of his being injured, even though he has no weight to -carry. The bars should be strong enough to sustain his weight, without -breaking, so that if he hits them hard he will have a tumble and a -lesson. The top bar should, if possible, be covered with straw, to -protect the knees from sharp edges. Some forcible raps and a few -tumbles will teach the horse the necessity of exerting himself, and -how to bend his knees and lift his hind-legs over a jump. - -[Sidenote: Falls] - -A fall is, at the best, a dangerous and often a disastrous affair for -a woman, whose very position on a horse lessens the chance of escape -from such a predicament without injury. A safety skirt will prevent -her being dragged; but much harm may result from the fall, even though -she be clear of the horse when he gets up. If she is not hurt, there -is still danger that the shock to her nerves will weaken her pluck. -Should such symptoms appear, she should remount at once; for the -longer she waits the greater will be her apprehension, and it might -end in her never regaining her nerve. She should make as light of the -casualty as possible, and not regard it seriously if she has been only -somewhat bruised or shaken up. - -It is marvellous how many and what ugly falls one can encounter -without being any the worse for them; nevertheless, no precaution -should be neglected to prevent exposure to them. When a woman has -experienced several, she will know instinctively what to do; but at -first she should try to bear in mind some points which may help her on -such occasions. - -A rider not accustomed to jumping will probably lose her seat if the -horse hits a fence with much force; as she feels herself going she -should try to grasp the animal's neck, and not attempt to keep on by -the aid of the reins, for by so doing she might throw him. Even if she -has gone farther than the saddle, if she can fling her weight, above -the waist, to the off side of the horse's neck, she will balance there -for a moment, and that will give her time to grasp the saddle and pull -herself back. Should she find herself beyond that, then as she slips -off she can keep her head from the ground by seizing hold of the -breast-plate with one hand, but without letting go of the reins. - -These must always be retained, as their possession renders it -impossible for the horse to reach her with his heels, and precludes -the chance of his getting away. - -If the horse bungles the jump, or comes down on his knees without -disturbing his rider's equilibrium, and seems likely to fall, a woman -cannot disentangle herself from him in time to get away. If he should -go down, therefore, she must sit evenly, leaning back, that her weight -may be taken from his fore-legs, while he is allowed plenty of rein. -He may thus regain his balance or his footing after a scramble; but it -will be impossible, in a slow fall like this, for a woman to be thrown -clear of him. As he will not roll immediately, the closer she sits the -better; so that if he tumbles on his near side, the force of the blow -will be broken by the pommels, which, if she be sitting close, will -hit the ground first, thus protecting her legs from the concussion. -Moreover, if she were half out of the saddle, the pommels might -strike her chest or crush a rib, and she would be more likely to be -kicked. - -As the horse makes an effort to get up, she must be ready to extricate -herself from him and scramble as far away as possible, as the danger -then is that he will not regain his feet, but will sink down a second -time and thus roll over his prostrate rider. - -If he should fall on his off side, a woman must strive to get clear on -that side as he lands, and not where the horse's feet are. - -Where a ditch has caused a fall, it is usually from unsound banks; -therefore, in attempting to climb out, firmer ground should be chosen. -If the woman has been thrown and the horse has landed on top of her, -the ditch being deep or narrow, she must try to keep his head down -until help arrives, so that he cannot strike her, as he might do, -because of the limited space, in his struggles to get up. - -In a stream, if she has preserved her seat, she must keep the horse -moving, or he will be inclined to lie down. - -If she has been thrown into the water, she must obtain a hold on the -saddle and the reins, but use only the former to support herself until -the horse reaches the shore. - -In all of these events a cool head and presence of mind will be of the -greatest assistance; but when a horse turns completely over at a -fence, or falls heavily and without warning, to drop her stirrup, -relax her muscles, and get clear of him as best she may is all a woman -can do. - -Occasionally, after a number of jumps, the girths become loosened and -the saddle begins to turn. In such an emergency the horse's mane -should be firmly grasped and the foot taken out of the stirrup. The -horse should be quieted and stopped, if he is not too much startled by -the turning saddle. With a breast-plate it will probably not turn all -the way, and her hold of the mane will enable a woman to keep her head -up until some one comes to the rescue. - -It will probably be a long time before such a variety of contingencies -as I have mentioned will happen to any one rider. A well-mounted woman -may jump a great deal and escape with only a few tumbles. If she -perseveres, there will be so many delightful experiences to -counterbalance each mishap that she will gladly risk the consequences -of indulging in a sport which, to so great an extent as leaping, -develops her nerve, skill, and self-possession. - - - - -X - -RIDING TO HOUNDS - - -Whether hounds are running on the scent of a fox or a drag, a woman -who is following them should always remember certain points to guide -her in her conduct and in the management of her horse while in the -field. - -[Sidenote: Courtesy] - -Many a beginner renders herself objectionable by striving to take a -place among the hard riders of the first flight. - -It is not to be expected that a woman without experience in the -hunting-field can keep up with those who have followed hounds for -several seasons; and should she attempt it, the probable result would -be a fall not only endangering herself and her horse, but compelling -some man to come to her assistance, and thereby perhaps lose the -remainder of the run. Even though too well mounted to have this occur, -there are countless ways in which a novice, in endeavoring to keep on -even terms with the leaders, may unwittingly call down anything but -blessings on her head from those for whose good opinion she most -cares. It is a mistake for her to suppose that people are watching -her, ready to admire her pluck and dash, when she crashes through -fences because her horse was not collected, or rides so close to the -hounds as to risk hitting them. If she flatters herself that she is -cutting out the work, it is pretty certain she has no business to be -so far forward, and that she will add to the number of men who -consider the hunting-field no place for women. - -[Sidenote: The Novice] - -A beginner should be content to stay behind the first flight until, -by experience and skill, she has earned the right to take a better -place. At first she should find out which of the men go straight, yet -ride cautiously and manage to keep the hounds in sight. Such a one she -should choose as her pilot, rather than a reckless rider or one who -shirks his fences. Unless she is very well acquainted with him, a -woman should not let a man know that she is following him. It annoys -him to think that some one is "tagging on behind," or that he is -responsible for the jumps she takes. Above all things, she must -invariably give him or any one in front of her time to get well away -from a jump before she takes it. This is of the utmost importance, and -is a point neglected by men and women alike in the excitement and -impatience of a run. - -If she desires to be looked upon otherwise than as a nuisance, she -must be as unobtrusive and cool-headed as possible, always courteous -to and considerate of others, patient when waiting for her turn at a -narrow place, and not try to take jumps that well-mounted, hard-riding -men deem impracticable. - -[Sidenote: Hard Riding] - -Women seldom need to be urged on in the hunting-field; they require -rather to be cautioned and restrained. If they are new at it, they do -not know the dangers to which they are exposed, so go recklessly; if -they appreciate the chances they take, they grit their teeth and go -desperately; if they are timid they nevertheless resolve not to be -outdone, and, trusting all to their horse, go blindly, even closing -their eyes at a critical moment. Therefore hard riding does not prove -that a woman has either pluck or skill. She is an exception who goes -straight and keeps with the hounds without taking foolish risks, -unnecessarily tiring her mount, or interfering with others, for this -requires judgment, discretion, skill, and nerve. - -[Sidenote: Jealous Riding] - -An undesirable trait observed in many instances is jealous -riding. This cannot be too strongly condemned, not only for the -unsportsmanlike spirit it betrays, but because it often threatens the -safety of others than those who ride in that manner. A jealous rider -crowds past people, jumps too close to them, and is constantly trying -to be among the first, regardless of the consequences to those he or -she hurries by. The motive that usually actuates a woman in such a -case is vanity. She cannot bear to see another woman ahead of her, so -she dashes along unmindful of the rules of etiquette and the -hunting-field, until by pushing, crowding, and taking big chances for -herself and against others, she reaches the object of her jealousy, -thinking to wrest from her the admiration of the field. If the other -woman is of the same mind and objects to being passed, a steeple-chase -will ensue that may end in accidents, disabled hounds, and bad -feelings. Admiration is far from the minds of the spectators, who do -not fail to see that jealousy and vanity, not eagerness for sport, are -the incentives to such hard riding. - -[Sidenote: Desirable Qualities] - -When a woman begins riding to hounds, she should already have had some -experience in larking a horse across country, and be acquainted with -the way to take the different kinds of jumps she will encounter during -a run. If she starts with a good seat and hands, pluck and nerve, a -little time and practice will add composure, judgment, and discretion, -and the experience necessary to cross a stiff country without mishap. -She may then discard the services of a pilot and ride her own line. - -[Sidenote: Getting Away] - -When hounds are thrown in, she must watch them, and, although not -interfering with their work, be ready to get away on good terms with -them when they begin to run. - -Indecision at the first two jumps may cost one dearly, for during that -moment of hesitation hounds slip away, horses crowd one another and -begin to refuse, while the few who make the most of their -opportunities ride on ahead with the hounds. Much hard galloping may -retrieve the lost ground, but a stern chase is always disheartening to -horse and rider. By getting away in front, both are encouraged, and -start with mutual good-will and satisfaction--relations which should -always exist between a hunter and his rider. - -[Sidenote: Indecision] - -If, after pointing her horse's head at a certain part of a jump, she -thinks another place is more inviting, she must not change her course, -unless certain that she can do so without inconveniencing some one -else who may have been going straight at it. - -It is inexcusable to turn from one place to another by cutting in -ahead of following riders. It throws their horses out of their stride, -and may force them to pull up in order to avoid a collision. -Therefore, in suddenly changing her direction, a woman must assure -herself that she is at least half a dozen lengths in front of her -follower, who is going straight, or she must wait until she has been -passed. - -[Sidenote: Right of Way] - -When a horse refuses, the rule is that the rider shall immediately -pull out and give the next a chance to jump. This is so often -overlooked in the field, that a few words seem desirable to impress -its importance upon the minds of those who hunt. - -Women particularly seem to consider themselves privileged to keep -their horse at a fence while he refuses at each trial, blocking the -way, if there is no other place to jump, of those in their rear. -Frequently, when her horse refuses, his rider thinks there is time to -try it again before the next one reaches the place; she puts him at -the fence, in her hurry turning him so short he could not jump if he -wanted to, and the result is that he stops just as the other horse -arrives, whose rider is thereby obliged to pull up. - -Had the woman pulled to one side in the first place, and waited until -her follower had given her horse a lead, which would probably have -induced him to jump, both would have been in the next field much -sooner than her impatience in the first instance eventually permitted. - -[Sidenote: Funk] - -A horse should not be ridden behind one that is likely to refuse, or -he may be inclined to imitate the misdoings of his predecessor. - -In the same way, it is injudicious to take a horse to a place where -others are refusing, either from their own or their riders' timidity. -He is liable to be infected with their faint-heartedness; for it needs -an unusually sensible, reliable horse to be the first to jump out from -a crowd at a place that has stopped those in front of him. - -It is far better for a woman to choose another way of reaching the -hounds than to risk adding to the number of refusers, unless she be so -well mounted as to be sure of giving the rest a lead. - -[Sidenote: Excitable and Sluggish Horses] - -A hot-headed, excitable horse will go more quietly if he can be made -to think he is ahead of the others. Therefore his rider should choose -a line for herself, apart from the others, and if he is a good -performer it will be safer to put him at a big jump where he can take -it coolly than to trust him at a smaller place where other horses are -crowding and goading him into a state of such impatience that in his -anxiety to overtake any one in front of him he will jump without -calculation, and endanger all in his vicinity by kicking, rearing, or -rushing. - -A sluggish horse, on the contrary, should be kept near others, that -their lead and example may arouse his ambition and keep up his heart. -It will not do to allow such a horse to fall far behind, as he will -probably get discouraged and refuse to jump without a fight, at the -end of which the hunt may have disappeared in the distance. - -[Sidenote: Proximity to Hounds] - -It is never wise to ride on the line of hounds, but rather to the -right or left of them. Horses directly behind them frighten the hounds -and interfere with their hunting. It also makes a few run very fast to -keep from being galloped over, while many others sneak away or get -behind the horses, of whose heels they stand in terror. - -It is a nuisance to be obliged to stop and give some slow hound a -chance to get by, or, if not considerate enough to do this, no rider -likes to see a hound going through a fence with the probability of -having a horse jump on him, should he pause for a moment on the other -side. - -A woman will escape these occurrences if she will keep to one side of -the pack. In this position it is permissible to ride farther up than -when so doing would bring her too near the pack; but the leading -hounds must be watched closely, and should always be allowed plenty of -room to turn sharp to the side where she is, without bringing them in -contact with her horse. The instant they check, or even hover, for a -moment, a woman must stop, and for two reasons: - -In the first place, because she does not want to be in the way should -it be necessary to cast the hounds in her direction; and, secondly, -because she should seize every opportunity of giving her horse a few -moments' respite, which she can afford to do if well enough up to -notice what the hounds are doing. - -[Sidenote: Choosing a Line] - -She must be guided as to her course by the character of the country -over which she is riding. - -If the hounds run over a succession of small hills, much unnecessary -exertion may often be spared the horse by galloping around the base of -them, instead of over their crest. But the hounds must not be lost -sight of too long, or a sharp turn may hide them from view and conceal -the line they have taken. - -When a very steep hill is to be descended, it should be done by going -down sideways in a zig-zag course, so that in case of a slip or -stumble the horse will not roll over, as he might if attempting to -make the descent in a straight line. - -If the going is rough or through furze or some low growth of -underbrush, a woman should sit well back in her saddle, and although -guiding her horse, allow him plenty of rein to stretch his neck and -see where he is putting his feet. Should he stumble or step into a -hole, she will in this way have the best chance of keeping her seat, -and he of regaining his balance. - -If riding in a district where wire is extensively used for fencing, it -will not do for a woman to go very far to one side of the hounds or to -try to cut out a line for herself, unless she knows the country. -Otherwise she may get pocketed by the wire, which few horses here are -trained to jump, and which, therefore, should not be ridden at. In -this case she would have to go back the way she came until she could -get clear of it. - -In jumping towards the sun, extra precautions should be taken. A horse -is often quite blinded, and unable to accurately gauge the size of the -jump he is to take, especially if it is timber. When the rays are -directly in his eyes, the best thing to do is to walk him up to and -alongside of the fence for a few yards, giving him a chance to measure -it, then take him back and put him at it. This must not be done where -it will interfere with any one else, but in any case such a jump must -be approached slowly. - -Wide ditches and streams are probably shirked as often as any kind of -jump. Too much preparation for them excites the horse's suspicions and -makes him hesitate, then refuse. A horse must be kept collected, yet -sent along too fast to admit of any faltering on his part, and there -must be no involuntary checking of his stride as the rider tries to -see the depth or width of ditch or stream. When such are in sight, it -is well to quicken the horse's pace, that he may reach the place -before he sees any horse refusing, or before the banks have been made -unsound by the jumping of the others. Each horse will probably widen -the distance as the ground gives way beneath him, so a woman must use -her own judgment in deciding where she will jump, instead of following -some one else. - -A bog or swamp is a most disagreeable place in which to be caught, and -calls for calmness to get out without a wetting or fall. To quiet the -horse is the first thing, and prevent his plunging into it deeper and -deeper, as he will with every struggle. Should he be sinking, his -rider must get off, keeping hold of the reins, for, although their -combined weight would cause the bog to give beneath them, they might -separately be able to keep on the surface, and quietly and gradually -work their way to firm ground. - -Whenever one comes upon something that cannot be seen at a distance, -such as a hole, a drop, or a wire, the first person who discovers it -should warn those behind by shouting back what it is, and, if -possible, motioning where it is, that those in the rear may avoid it, -each person cautioning the next one. - - - - -XI - -SYMPATHY BETWEEN HORSE AND WOMAN - - -The advantages derived from the existence of sympathy between horse -and rider cannot be too highly estimated. When a woman gives her horse -to understand that he will be ruled by kindness, he is very certain to -serve her far more willingly and faithfully than if she tried to -control him by force. If he has learned to be fond of her voice, it -will calm and reassure him in moments of excitement which might -otherwise result in a runaway; it will stimulate him to expend his -best energies at her command, when force or punishment would fail, and -will do more to establish a mutual understanding in a few weeks than -would be gained in as many months of silent control. - -A horse soon learns to distinguish the intonation of words of praise -from those of censure, terms of endearment from admonition, and will -often respond to them more readily than to severe discipline. - -Few horses are so dull as not to be susceptible to kindness, or so -vicious as not to be influenced by gentle treatment. - -[Sidenote: Talking to Horse] - -I do not approve of a woman, once she is in the saddle, entering upon -a lengthy address of endearment to her horse if she is riding with -friends. They may care for a little of her attention themselves; it is -just as well not to show them the horse is the more interesting, even -if she feels so. - -Moreover, incessant chatter becomes after a little time so familiar to -the animal that the voice loses its power when intended to convey a -definite meaning, and he fails to distinguish the difference between -commands and idle pettings. - -It is only necessary to reprove him, to give words of command, such as -"walk," "trot," "canter," "whoa," which he may easily be taught to -obey, and a few words accompanied by a caress to soothe, encourage, or -command him when the occasion presents itself. - -When living in the country, with a stable near the house, a woman is -afforded the most favorable opportunity of making friends with her -horse. - -A good way to begin will be to dismount at the stable after a ride and -take off the saddle and bridle. - -It is very simple, for it is only to unbuckle the outside leather -girth, stirrup leather, two inside girths, and perhaps a balance -strap, and take off the saddle, unfasten the throat latch, lip strap, -and curb chain on the bridle, throw the reins over his head, and take -hold of the headstall, when he will withdraw his head. - -She must have his halter ready to put on at once, or he might pull -away. - -This will give him a pleasant impression of her, which is an important -point gained. - -Should she through some mistake find no one in the stable, and the -horse in a heat at the end of her ride, she should not hesitate to -scrape him herself, brush the mud off his legs, put a light blanket on -him, give him only a mouthful of water, and put him in his stall with -a little hay. If she will rub his ears, and sponge out his mouth, it -will be a great relief to him. - -All this should be accomplished in a quiet manner, nothing done to -alarm or excite him; and she may talk to him most of the time, and -thus become quite friendly with him. - -[Sidenote: In the Stall] - -When she visits him in the stall, she should always speak before -touching him or entering, otherwise he might be startled and kick or -plunge from fright. - -If in a standing stall, entrance should always be made at the near -side of the horse. - -I greatly prefer a loose box in which the horse may turn at his -pleasure. If he eats too much of his bedding, it is better to keep a -leather muzzle on him than to tie his head up. - -Before opening the door of the box, he should be induced to face it, -to avoid the possibility of his kicking. This can be managed by -offering him some sugar, carrots, or oats, which he will come for, -held quietly on the palm of the hand, with the fingers out of his -reach. - -It is well for a woman, at first, to keep a light hold of the halter, -so that he cannot crush her against the wall or hit her with his head. -She should never put her head above his, or a severe knock may be the -result. She should pet him, avoiding all sudden movements, and -accustom him to her voice; when it has become familiar to him, he will -listen for it, and neigh at her approach. - -If he seems inclined to kick, the closer she keeps to him the better, -as then she will receive only a shove, instead of the full force of -the blow. If he shows a tendency to nip or bite, from play or -mischief, he should be muzzled until, by coaxing and kindness, he has -been made to give it up. - -To strike him would be to turn his playful though dangerous prank into -a vicious habit. - -In petting him she should begin by stroking his neck, and gradually -work down and backwards with a firm, light touch, until he does not -resent being handled. He must be taught to let her lean on any part of -him, and not to fear her skirts. This is often of value in case a -woman is thrown and her habit catches on the saddle; for if the horse -were accustomed to her weight and skirt being against him, he would -not become frightened. Knowing her voice, he might be quieted by it, -and had he learned the important lesson of stopping at the word -"whoa," she might escape being dragged. - -[Sidenote: On the Road] - -If in the course of a ride a woman dismounts at a house or stable, she -should always be sure that a light blanket is immediately thrown over -her horse. She should not start for a ride until some time after her -horse has been fed, or his digestion will become impaired, as would -hers under similar circumstances. After mounting, it is always well, -by a light hold of the snaffle, to make a horse walk a short while; it -is most annoying to have him start with a series of plunges or an -inclination to bolt. - -If he is so fresh that he will not walk without restraint likely to -irritate him, perhaps spoiling his temper for the rest of the ride, it -will be better to let him indulge in a brisk trot, after which he may -be brought back to a walk. The next time, if having had more work, he -will walk at first, while had his mouth been jerked the previous time, -or a fight ensued, he would remember it, and prepare for a repetition -of the performance. - -A horse should not of his own will be allowed to change his gaits, but -his rider must think to vary them; for if the horse is kept on one -too long, it tires him unnecessarily and causes him to travel -carelessly. Whatever gait she makes him adopt, it should be distinct -and regular, and he should be kept collected and not urged beyond the -pace at which he can comfortably travel. - -[Sidenote: Cautions] - -A jog-trot, trotting in front and cantering behind, and other such -eccentricities, should not be permitted in a park hack. - -In turning a corner, the horse should always be somewhat supported, -and have his hind-legs brought well under him, or he will be liable to -slip. He should never be cantered around a corner unless leading with -the foot towards which he will turn. - -He should not be pulled up abruptly, unless to avoid sudden obstacles, -but his pace should be gradually decreased until it is as required. A -sharp stop entails considerable strain on the back tendons and hocks, -and if done too often would be apt to make the horse throw a curb. - -In going downhill, a walk is the gait which should be taken, or the -horse's fore-legs will suffer. Should the ground be uneven and rough, -or covered with rolling stones, the horse ought to be permitted to -walk. His head should not be held too tightly, or he will be unable to -see where he is going, while if the reins are slack he will appreciate -that he must pick his way, and then will seldom put a foot wrong. - -It is most undesirable to canter where there is a hard road; nothing -will more quickly use up a horse than pounding along, each stride -laying the foundation of windgalls and stiffness, if nothing more -serious results from this ill-advised practice. - -If a horse is at all warm, he must never be allowed to stand in a -draught; five minutes of it might founder him, so that he would be -ruined, or thrown into pneumonia. If, while on her ride, a woman -should be forced to wait, she must keep her horse moving in a circle -or any other way, keeping his chest from the wind as much as possible. -Before reaching home, the horse should be walked for some time, so -that he may enter the stable cool, and not be endangered by draughts -if not attended to at once. - -When riding with others, their horses should be regarded; and as the -woman sets the pace, she should not make it faster than that which her -companions' horses can easily maintain. - - - - -XII - -PRACTICAL KNOWLEDGE OF THE STABLE - - -[Sidenote: Stabling] - -The woman should visit her horse in the stable, and there she cannot -talk to him too much. If it be a private one, I assume that it is -constructed on hygienic principles; but as horses are frequently -boarded at livery-stables, a woman should not leave the choice of a -stall to her groom. She should see that of those procurable it is the -best drained and ventilated, though free from draughts, and well -lighted. If these conditions are not obtained, sickness and incapacity -may be looked for in the horse. She should notice the feed -occasionally, and see that her horse is supplied with all he requires, -and of the best quality, and that he has an abundance of good -bedding. A frequent or indiscriminate use of physics is to be -deprecated. Pure air, good food, careful grooming, and regular, -moderate exercise are the best tonics. - -[Sidenote: Picking up Feet] - -She must learn to pick up her horse's feet, as she should examine his -shoes personally, and ascertain that they have been made to fit the -feet, instead of the horn being rasped away to fit the shoes. The -soles must be pared, but the frogs and bars should not be interfered -with. She cannot expect to have the shoes on more than a month; -although, if the horse has not had enough work to wear them down, they -may be removed and put on again, for were they worn too long, corns -and inflammation, causing lameness, would be the result. Another -reason for knowing how to lift his feet is that he might pick up a -stone on the road, and if alone she would be obliged to take it out, -or run the risk of seriously laming him. While a woman is playing with -him is an excellent opportunity for her to look at her horse's feet, -which should be taken up in the following manner. - -She must stand on his near side, a trifle back of his fore-legs, and -facing his hind ones. She should run her left hand from his knee to -his fetlock, behind, and inside of his near fore-leg, grasping just -below his fetlock, with the fingers on the coronet and the thumb above -on the pastern. A horse which has been broken will yield his foot, -bending his knee at once, but sometimes with such force that she must -keep her head held up, so that there be no chance of contact with his -heel. With the right hand she can examine his foot, after which she -may pass to his off fore-foot, and then to the near hind-leg. - -For this she must stand close to his side, and stroke him firmly from -the quarters to the hock. Passing her right hand under his hock to his -fetlock, and grasping his foot as she did the fore one, she must raise -it, letting the hock rest in the angle of her arm, while with her -right hand she turns up the foot for inspection. She must not lean too -far over or get back of the horse, or she is likely to be kicked if he -offers any resistance. - -Then, too, she may unfasten the roller and throw back his blanket, -that she may be sure the saddle has not rubbed his back. A slight -abrasion of the skin, if treated at once, will require only a day or -two to heal; but if neglected for some days, the time will be greatly -prolonged. If any soreness is detected, the saddle should be looked to -immediately and the cause of the trouble remedied. - -[Sidenote: Grooming] - -A shining coat is not positive proof that the horse is properly -groomed. The hair should be rubbed the wrong way, and if the skin -leaves a whitish deposit on the fingers, it will be well for the -horse's owner to watch the groom the next time the horse is dressed, -and to insist upon its being thoroughly done. - -[Sidenote: Bitting] - -Much of what seems to be vice in a horse comes from his having been -imperfectly bitted when young, or from subsequently having his mouth -roughly handled. He should always be ridden in as easy a bit as -possible, as some horses go well and quietly in a plain snaffle, and -will pull, bolt, or run in a curb or any severe contrivance. No rule -can be given as to what bit will best control certain tendencies. -Experimenting with each kind will be the only means of finding out, -but pulling is as likely to arise from an over-sensitive mouth as -from a hard one, in which case a rubber snaffle might prove -efficacious where a Chifney would fail. - -Sometimes certain parts of the mouth become callous, and a bit bearing -on a different place might produce the desired result. Most horses -will go well in a bit and bridoon, varied to suit their peculiarities -by the height of the port, the length of the branches, and the -pressure of the curb-chain. There are certain points which should -always be regarded. The mouth-piece must fit the horse's mouth -exactly, being neither so narrow as to pinch him, nor so wide as to -lose its power. The port should be the same width as the -tongue-channel, and no higher than required to leave room for the -tongue. The curb-chain must be sufficiently tight to furnish leverage -for the branches, yet not so tight as to pinch the jaw when no force -is applied. - -[Sidenote: Clipping] - -Clipping horses in winter I have heard objected to on the ground of -its being unsafe to deprive them of the thick coat which affords -protection from the cold. If their coat is thick and long, it is, in -my opinion, much wiser to clip them, and for several very good -reasons. Their work is rarely continuous, and the alternating of the -heated with the cooling-off condition is very liable to work more or -less injury. A heavy-coated horse which has been driven until very -warm, and then left for half an hour to stand outside of a shop or -house and become chilled by the wind striking the heavy wet coat, -which frequently does not dry for hours, is likely to become a subject -for the veterinary. - -On the other hand, if the horse is clipped, he does not get so warm -in the first place, and, in the second, would cool off more quickly -and without danger of becoming chilled. In very cold weather quarter -blankets will furnish all the protection necessary, and prevent the -wind from striking the horse while standing. - -With saddle horses, although not so important, it is an advantage to -have them clipped, because a cold day is certain to make the rider go -steadily to keep warm, and the horse, becoming overheated (if his coat -is heavy), is in great danger of taking cold if permitted to stand for -a moment in a draught. - -[Sidenote: Bridling] - -No woman who rides should be without a practical knowledge of how to -saddle and bridle her horse, as the groom often turns him out -imperfectly bitted or girthed; and unless she knows how to do it -herself, she will not perceive that anything is wrong until too late -to prevent mischief. She should learn to hold the bridle by the -headstall, in her left hand, as with the right she slips off the -horse's halter, and throws the reins over his head. Then change it to -the right hand, putting her left on the bits, which she gently inserts -between his jaws. With the right she must pull his ears under the -headstall, and then turn her attention to fitting the bridle. - -She must see that the headstall fits, that the forehead-band is not -too tight, and that there is plenty of room between the throat-latch -and the throat. The snaffle-rein is fitted by the buckles of the -cheek-piece, and should fall a trifle below the angle of the mouth. -The curb needs careful adjustment, that the mouth-piece may rest -exactly on the bars of the mouth. Then the chain must be hooked when -quite flat on the chin-groove, but not tight enough, unless used -vigorously, to inconvenience the horse. The lip-strap should pass -through the small ring attached to the curb-chain, thus keeping it in -place. I like a bridle with buckles, or billets as they are called, -rather than one which is stitched to the rings. In the first place, it -is frequently desirable to change the bits, especially in a large -stable, and being sewed would necessitate a bridle for each bit. -Furthermore, when the bits are washed, the leather gets wet, and the -stitching is apt to become rotten, and unexpectedly give way at a -critical moment, when some unusual strain is put on it. - -[Illustration: DOUBLE BRIDLE FOR GENERAL USE] - -[Sidenote: Noseband] - -A noseband furnishes additional control over a horse; but it should -not be attached to the bridle, or it may interfere with the action of -the bit. It should have a headstall and cheek-pieces, and be -buckled tight enough to prevent the horse from opening his mouth too -wide, but it must not restrain his breathing. - -[Sidenote: Martingale] - -If a martingale is used, I much prefer a running to a standing one. It -is useful with star-gazers or horses that get their noses out too far. -Some horses need one to steady them in hunting, but the running -martingale is the only one which should be tolerated in jumping, and -then not be used unless necessary. It is attached to a girth, and at -the two upper ends are sewed rings through which the snaffle passes. -With a running martingale there must be a stop on each snaffle, -considerably larger than the rings of the martingale; otherwise there -is danger of these rings getting caught in the bits, frightening the -horse, and making him rear or back, as there is no way to release the -pressure thus brought on his mouth. The length should be carefully -regulated, so that it will keep the horse's head at the desired -height. This admits of considerable play to the horse, but within -control of the rider, while with a standing martingale no liberty is -attainable. Once mounted, the rider cannot influence its bearing; and -should the horse trip, he cannot fling up his head, as he must to -regain his balance. - -[Sidenote: Breast-plate] - -For ordinary riding a breast-plate is not always used, but in hunting -it is almost indispensable, and is always a safeguard against a -woman's saddle slipping back. It is put on over the horse's head with -the reins, and one strap passes between his fore-legs, through the -loop of which one of the girths passes. Two other ends buckle, one on -each side of the saddle, near the horse's withers, and it should be -loose enough to admit of free movement in galloping and jumping. - -[Illustration: CORRECT SADDLE] - -[Illustration: UNDESIRABLE SADDLE] - -[Sidenote: The Saddle] - -The saddle should be very plain in appearance. It must have a level -seat, which can only be obtained in those having the tree cut away -above the withers; otherwise, to clear them, the saddle must be so -elevated in front that it is sometimes six inches higher than the -cantle, placing the knee in an awkward and fatiguing position, and it -is impossible to rise without an unusual amount of exertion, which -will lead to arching the back, thrusting the head forward, and -probably galling the horse's withers. There should be no third pommel, -such as there formerly was on the right side of the saddle, bending to -the left over the right leg. - -The two pommels must fit the knees exactly, or the circulation will be -impeded, and a cramp brought on which renders the muscles powerless to -grip the pommels. The seat must extend about an inch beyond the line -of the spine, and, although I usually object to it, for a child the -seat should be covered with buckskin. No more padding should be used -than is required to fit the horse's back, as it looks badly for the -top of the saddle to be several inches above the horse. Moreover, the -nearer one is to the animal's back, the greater will be the control. -It enables one more readily to detect the stiffening of the muscles -when mischief is contemplated, and to be prepared to thwart it. It -should not have any superfluous straps, stitching, or attempts at -ornamentation: the simpler the style the better; even the slit on the -saddle-flap for the pocket is now frequently dispensed with. A safety -pommel-band is sometimes fastened from the extreme upper forward end -of the right saddle-flap to the top of the right pommel, thence to the -left. This lessens the likelihood of a skirt becoming caught. - -[Sidenote: Stirrup] - -On no account should a slipper stirrup be used, but a safety stirrup -without any padding, and one which does not work by having the bottom -drop out, as these are apt to come to pieces when least desired, -leaving the foot without any support. The best kind have the inner -half-circle jointed in the middle and working on a hinge at both -sides, so that it can open only on being pulled from below, as in case -of a fall. Next to this in safety comes a plain, small racing stirrup. - -[Illustration: SAFETY STIRRUP, CLOSED] - -[Sidenote: Girths] - -The Fitz-William web girths are the best for a woman's saddle, white -being used in preference to darker shades. There are braided raw-hide -and also cord girths, the former being very serviceable, but they do -not look so well as either of the others. - -[Illustration: SAFETY STIRRUP, OPEN] - -[Sidenote: Saddling] - -When the saddle is in position, free from the play of the shoulders, -the first girth is taken up, then the back one, and kept clear of the -horse's elbows, that his action may not be impeded. Although pulling -the girths excessively tight is to be avoided, it will not do to leave -them loose, as a woman's unevenly distributed weight might cause the -saddle to turn. Any wrinkles in the skin caused by the girthing should -be smoothed away by passing the fingers between the girths and the -horse. Then the stirrup-leather is buckled, after this the outside -leather strap that keeps the saddle-flap in place, and finally the -balance-strap, which must be fairly tight, assists in keeping the -saddle in position. Before mounting she should always glance at the -saddle and bridle, and be sure that they are properly put on; -otherwise her ride may be rendered uncomfortable, if not dangerous. - - - - -XIII - -SOMETHING ON DRIVING - - -[Sidenote: Desirability of Instruction] - -Ninety-nine women out of every hundred are firmly convinced that -instruction is by no means necessary to their driving safely and in -good form. Four men out of five labor under the same delusion. It is a -sad error, that leads to numberless failures, and many accidents which -might so easily be avoided if the services of a competent teacher were -employed at the beginning. Having seen others drive without any -apparent difficulty, the novice conceives the notion that there is -nothing to learn which cannot be mastered without assistance after one -or two attempts. If such a one escapes a bill of damages, it should -be credited to the ministering care of her guardian angel. She may -indeed escape accident; she may learn to start without dislocating the -neck of every one in the trap, and get around the corner without an -upset; but she will never learn to _drive_. There is something more -for her to know than that she must pull the off rein to turn to the -right and the near one to go to the left, though this appears to be -the extent of knowledge deemed necessary. - -Women, even more than men, require a thorough understanding of what -they are doing, for they lack the strength to rectify a miscalculation -at the last moment. The ignorance, indecision, and weakness frequently -displayed by women in driving are what so often render them objects of -apprehension to experienced whips. - -It is folly for any woman to flatter herself that she needs only a -little practice, and that the rest "will come." If she has not begun -correctly, practice will only wed her to the faults she must have -acquired. - -Assuming, however, for the sake of argument, that, after having -discounted her call on an all-protecting Providence and stricken with -terror her long-suffering friends, she manages to guide the family nag -along the turnpike without the aid of a civil escort to clear the road -before her--what of it? She hasn't learned anything; her form is -execrable; and in case of an emergency she is quite as unprepared as -when she took up the reins weeks before, with the ill-conceived notion -that she was not of the common clay, and that, a whip, rather than a -rattle, had been the insignia of her infantile days. - -How much better, safer, and more sensible to acquire good form than by -its neglect to become an object of ridicule to those who, by their -knowledge of driving and exposition of superior horsemanship, are -entitled to criticise others who have disregarded proper instruction, -and, wise in their own conceit, relied on their ignorance for -guidance. - -[Sidenote: Vulgar Display] - -Some women there are who drive only because they consider it the -"proper thing." Absorbed in the opportunity for display, and ignorant -of the fitness of things, they array themselves in the treasures of -their wardrobe, more likely than not to be a gay silk, and, with every -discordant ribbon and flounce of their _bizarre_ costume loudly -challenging the attention of the on-lookers, they sally forth perched -on the box of a spider phaeton, Tilbury, or dog-cart, indifferent to, -because ignorant of, the incongruity of their turnout, unconscious of -the signal they have flung to the breeze, which unmistakably proclaims -their lack of early instruction. - -[Sidenote: Bad Form] - -These are they who in the handling of their animals instantly call to -mind the puppet-shows of our childhood days, and fill us with an -almost irresistible desire to look under the box-seat and discover who -is working the invisible wires. Every movement is spasmodic--the arms -work as though an alternating electric current were constantly being -turned through them--the hands finger the reins nervously; and if the -vehicle happens to be a two-wheeler, the unhappy driver looks as -though every jolt of the poorly balanced cart would send her into the -road from her very insecure seat. - -Another harrowing spectacle is that of the woman leaning forward, a -rein in each hand, with her arms dragged almost over the dash-board -by her horse's mouth, a look of direful expectancy in her eyes, and a -much be-flowered and be-ribboned hat occupying unmolested a rakish -position over one ear, where it has fallen during her hopeless -struggle with the reins. - -[Illustration: A WELL-BALANCED CART] - -[Sidenote: Costume] - -It is strange women should not have a sufficiently clear idea of the -fitness of things to realize that elaborate toilets of silks, laces, -and flowers, and large hats, although appropriate in a victoria, are -inconvenient and totally out of place when driving a sporting-trap, -such as a dog-cart. - -A plain, neatly fitting, but not tight cloth suit, with a small hat, -which will not catch the wind, is far more serviceable and in better -taste. However, she should avoid the other extreme affected by the -woman who desires to appear masculine and "sporty," and who, -showing a large expanse of shirt front, wears a conspicuous plaid -suggestive of a horse-blanket. - -This specimen of feminine "horsy-ness" invariably drives with her -hands held almost under her chin, and her whip in as vertical a -position as herself. She is as powerless to control her animal as is -the one who leans over the dash-board. - -[Sidenote: Cockade] - -This is the sort of woman who compels her groom, if she have one, to -wear a cockade in his hat, in ignorance of the fact that we in this -country have no claim to its use. In Great Britain it is the -distinguishing mark of either the royal family or the military, naval, -or civil officers of the government; but used here it is only a -meaningless affectation. - -[Sidenote: Confidence] - -To achieve success, and to obtain a business-like appearance in -driving, a woman must possess confidence in her power to control her -horses, and it must be the confidence derived from knowledge and -skill, and not that born of ignorance or fool-hardiness. - -She must know what to do, and how to do it promptly, under all -circumstances, and this necessitates a thorough comprehension of the -sport she is pursuing. - -It is to be hoped she will gain this from competent instruction, and -that she will embrace every opportunity of adding to her information -on the subject. - -[Sidenote: The "Family-Horse" Fallacy] - -A quiet, steady old horse, such as one might expect to see doing -farm-work, cannot always be recommended even to a beginner, for he -generally requires so little management that when he does -occasionally become unruly it is so unusual that the woman is taken -unawares. - -Moreover, it makes one careless and slovenly always to drive a horse -which goes along in a leisurely manner, without any display of life. - -A woman who has been accustomed to such an animal will be at a loss to -manage a spirited pair, should she be called upon to do so. If she -begin with a horse which goes well into his collar and does his work -generously, she will learn twice as much as she would in the same time -with a lazy horse, and will sooner be able to drive a pair. - -[Sidenote: On the Box] - -The position on the driving seat should be comfortable and firm, which -cannot be the case when it is used merely to lean against, instead of -to sit upon. - -From the knee down, the leg should be but slightly bent, with the -feet together and resting against the foot-rail. - -The elbows should be held near the body, and the reins in the left -hand, with the little finger down, and the knuckles pointing straight -ahead, about on a line with or a trifle below the waist, and in the -middle of the body. - -Whether driving one or two horses, the manner of holding the reins is -the same; but more strength and decision, as well as the judgment -which, of course, experience will bring, are required for the pair. - -[Sidenote: Position of Reins] - -The near rein belongs on top of the first finger, held there firmly by -the thumb, and the off rein should be between the second and third -fingers. - -The gloves should be large, broad across the knuckles, and long in the -fingers; otherwise cold, stiff hands will result from the impeded -circulation. - -The right hand, close to the left, should contain the whip, which must -be held at an angle of a little less than forty-five degrees, and at -the collar, about eight to ten inches from the butt, so that it -balances properly. - -[Sidenote: Handling Reins] - -When about to start, the reins should be tightened, to feel the -horse's mouth, and a light touch of the whip will suffice to send him -forward. The hand should then yield, so that as he straightens the -traces there will be no jerk on his mouth. - -In turning to the right or to the left, the reins must not be -separated. - -The right hand should be placed on the rein, indicating the desired -direction, until the turn has been made; but a slight pressure on the -opposite rein should keep the horse from going too near a corner. - -The left hand must not relax its hold, so that when the right is -removed the reins will be even, as they were before. - -In stopping, the body is not to be bent backwards, suggestive of an -expected shock, and the hands raised to the chin. - -It cannot be too strongly impressed on the woman's mind that the less -perceptible effort she makes, the more skilful will she appear. -Therefore, if she take hold of the reins with her right hand as far in -front of the left as she can handily reach, and then draw them back, -she will have accomplished her purpose in a quiet and easy manner. - -[Sidenote: A Pair] - -Driving a pair is much the same as driving one horse; but allowances -should be made for the peculiarities of each, and they should not be -treated as though machines of identical construction. - -Frequently a woman driving a nervous horse with a quiet one will hit -them both with the whip, when, should she touch the quiet one only, -the sound of it would urge the other as much as the blow does the dull -one. - -Here is another objection to clucking to horses: one of them needs it -much more than the other, yet they hear it with equal clearness, and -simultaneously; therefore the high-mettled horse increases his pace -sooner and more than his sluggish companion, and does more than his -share of the work. Several noiseless touches of the whip, administered -in quick succession to the laggard, will do more to equalize their -pace than would a sharp, loud cut or any amount of clucking. - -Sometimes a woman will experience great inconvenience from not having -her horses properly bitted and harnessed. This should always be seen -to, either by herself or some one who is competent to judge for her. -When she has more than one horse to control, she will soon become -tired if one of them pulls and the other will not go into his collar. - -A judicious readjustment of the curb-chain and the coupling-rein will -often make the difference between discomfort and ease. - - - - -XIV - -SOMETHING MORE ON DRIVING - - -[Sidenote: Management] - -While a horse is doing his work in a satisfactory manner he should not -be irritated by having his mouth jerked and the whip applied for the -driver's amusement. It is a pity all women do not realize that a horse -will accomplish, with less fatigue, much more work when taken quietly -than he will if fretted and tormented by needless urging or restraint. -Constant nagging affects an animal in the same way as it does a human -being; and though a horse is usually subjected to such treatment -through want of thought, it is none the less exasperating to him. - -One result of this ordeal is that it prompts him to break into a -canter as he becomes restless; and then he must be brought back to a -trot by decreasing the speed and keeping the hands steady. - -[Sidenote: Stumbling] - -A stumbling horse must be kept awake and going at a medium rate of -speed. In either a very fast trot or a slow one he is likely to trip, -and unless his driver is prepared for it, and ready to keep him up, he -will probably fall, and she may be pulled over the dash-board. - -A bearing-rein may assist in keeping him on his feet, but an habitual -stumbler can never be considered safe. Such a horse must not be driven -with loose reins, as a feeling on his mouth is necessary at all times. - -[Sidenote: Backing] - -When a horse persistently backs, there are two great dangers: first, -he may upset the carriage, unless it cuts under; and, secondly, he may -back into something or over an embankment. - -If the road be level, a woman must try to keep the horse from backing -to one side, although in case of a steep declivity it may be necessary -to pull him sideways, and risk an overturn rather than a fall over a -bank. In all events, the whip should be vigorously applied, in the -hope of starting the horse forward; if the woman have a groom with -her, he should go to the horse's head at once and lead him. - -Occasionally, backing may arise from sore shoulders caused by an -ill-fitting collar; but if there is no such excuse for his action, and -it should become a habit, the horse is not suitable for any woman to -drive. - -If desirous of making a turn in a narrow lane, it will often be -necessary to back off the road, between trees or on to a foot-path, -to obtain room. Some horses will not back under these circumstances, -nor from a shed where they have been tied. In most instances all that -will be required is to get out, take the horse by his bridle, and by -lightly tapping one foot make him raise it, at the same time pushing -him back by the bit. The other foot should be moved in the same way, -and this repeated until he has gone far enough. After a few steps the -woman may resume her seat, with the probability of the horse backing -without further resistance. - -[Sidenote: Rearing and Kicking] - -If the horse is nervous, the pull at his mouth may make him back so -fast that in his excitement he will rear. In this event the reins -should be loosened a moment and the animal quieted, after which the -backing process may be continued. - -If the rearing comes from temper, and takes place when he has been -going forward, there should be no weight on his mouth while he seems -in danger of falling backward, but a cut of the whip administered as -he comes down may prevent his trying it again. It is important to feel -his mouth at this juncture, as the whip will make him plunge forward, -and the hold on his mouth must be firm enough to keep the traces loose -as he lands; otherwise there would be a sudden strain on them, and -consequently an unpleasant jerk, which might bring the carriage on to -his hocks, as he stopped to gather himself for another effort, and, -even if it did not make him kick or run, he would probably be bruised. - -A determined kicker needs to have his head kept up, and for this -purpose a bearing-rein will be found of great service. He should be -driven with a kicking-strap, but it must not be too tight, or it will -induce the habit it is intended to cure. He may kick if the crupper is -too tight, so this also should be looked to. - -[Sidenote: Rein under Tail] - -When a rein gets under the tail of a horse, under no circumstances -should an attempt be made to pull it away. It should be pushed -forward, and the horse spoken to in a reassuring manner. - -If he does not then release it, a slight cut of the whip may divert -his attention; he will whisk his tail, and at this instant the rein -must be allowed to fall to one side, as were it pulled directly up, it -would be likely to be caught again. If these methods do not prove -efficacious, a woman must try to keep the horse straight, and prevail -upon him to walk until some one sees her predicament and comes to her -assistance. In some traps she might be able to reach forward and -remedy the difficulty, meanwhile watching for any symptoms of kicking. -But whether she does it herself or directs some one else, she must see -that the tail is lifted, instead of an effort being made to pull the -rein away. - -Many mishaps come from this seemingly trivial occurrence, and a horse -frightened by improper treatment is liable to bolt or run. - -It is always an excellent plan to have a horse trained to stop short -at the word "whoa!" This expression is usually misapplied, being made -to do duty for "steady" or "quiet," and it will be difficult to teach -a horse its true significance unless he is never driven without this -end in view, and the term employed only when it is meant. - -[Sidenote: Bolting and Running] - -In the event of a horse bolting, the chances are very great against a -woman's checking him. If she can do it at all, it will be by sawing -his mouth, and giving a succession of sharp jerks, while endeavoring -to control his course. - -The most dangerous and irrational thing she can do is to jump out of -the trap. - -Severe injuries almost invariably attend such a proceeding; and if it -be possible to stay in, she should do so, never relinquishing her hold -on the reins. If from the swaying of the carriage she seems in danger -of being thrown out, a woman must make sure that her skirts are not -caught on anything, and that her feet are clear of the reins. - -Men sometimes pull a runaway horse into a ditch or up a steep bank, -which stops him; but a smash or an overturn is inevitable; and should -a woman attempt this, there is great danger of her being unable to -extricate herself from the tangle. She is handicapped by her skirts, -which are more than likely to cause her to be dragged should the horse -manage to start off again. Besides this, after a struggle such as she -will have had, a woman will seldom have enough strength left to force -a horse from the direction he has chosen. - -[Sidenote: Crowded Driveways] - -In whatever pranks horses indulge, the dangers are multiplied and -intensified when encountered by a woman who ventures to drive in a -crowded park or avenue during the afternoon. - -Women of culture and refinement, realizing this, and wishing to avoid -making themselves conspicuous on public highways, are content to be -driven at this hour, reserving the mornings for the pleasure of -handling the reins themselves. - -Some women there are who drive better than most coachmen, and a few of -these may desire to display their skill and their well-appointed traps -when the spectators are most numerous. They may be competent to make -their way through such a maze as one finds on popular carriage roads, -but they do it in defiance of the condemnation they will receive from -people of more refined ideas. - -The majority of women who drive are unable to control their horses, -and they need not flatter themselves that their immunity from -accidents is the result of their skill. They owe their safety to the -fact that men, appreciating the uncertainty of their movements, give -them plenty of room, and keep as far as they can from anything driven -by a woman. - -[Sidenote: Road Courtesy] - -Such women would be less objectionable if they were more considerate -of others. For example, they should keep on their own side of the -drive, and, if they are going slowly, as much to the right of it as -possible, that those who desire to pass may not have their way -blocked. - -Again, they should remember that some one is behind them, and that -they should not endeavor to turn or stop abruptly without having -intimated their intention to those in the rear. - -Another heedless thing they do is, in passing a leading trap to turn -in ahead of it so sharply that a more careful driver is forced to pull -up rather than endanger his horses by having the wheels swing against -them. - -Women seem to forget now and then that they must always pass to the -left of a vehicle in front of them, and not try to get through a -small space on its right. If they would only take a few lessons in -driving, pay attention to the instruction they receive, and cultivate -consideration for others, their presence on the box might be welcomed -more frequently and with greater warmth than it now is. - -It would be well if equestrians rode with more regard for the -convenience of those who are driving. When a bridle-path is provided -for them, there is no reason why they should usurp any of the road -intended for carriages. They would feel outraged, and justly so, if -one vehicle should appear on their road; yet swarms of them daily use -the drive, occupying much-needed space, and clattering and darting -along, unmindful of startled horses and the narrow escapes of their -own mounts from collisions with many wheels. - -[Sidenote: Tandems and Teams] - -Comparatively few women are so fortunate as to have an opportunity to -drive tandem or four-in-hand. If they are so situated that they would -be likely to do so frequently, they should not hesitate to take -lessons, as otherwise they would slowly learn from many dangerous and -costly experiences what a trustworthy teacher could have shown them -with safety and expedition. However, it is well to be prepared for all -contingencies, and therefore many women may desire to know something -about these branches of driving, in case they should in some -unforeseen manner have an opportunity to essay them. - -If, for instance, she were driving with a friend who offered to let -her take the reins, a woman would not be expected to look to the -harnessing and bitting, but there are a few points she might be glad -to know. - -[Sidenote: Reins] - -The reins are held the same in tandem and team-driving. The first -finger separates the leaders' reins, and the second those of the -wheelers, with each near rein above the off one. Thus over the first -finger will be the near leader, under it the off leader, and between -this rein and the second finger the near wheeler, with the off wheeler -between the second and third fingers. The right hand must be free to -hold the whip and to manipulate the reins. - -The off-wheel rein will often need attention, as the third finger is -not so strong as the other two used, and therefore this rein will more -readily slip through. - -In changing a rein it must always be done by pushing it back from in -front of the hand, instead of pulling it through from behind. - -[Illustration: POSITION IN TANDEM] - -The correct handling of the whip can be mastered only after much -patience and constant practice, but its proper use is of paramount -importance. - -Women will find driving tandem easier than driving four, because, -although it requires more skill to keep the horses straight, it does -not call for the amount of muscle needed to manage four horses, the -brake, and whip. - -[Sidenote: Unruly Leader] - -At first the weight alone of the reins would tire her, and of course -there are more chances of mishaps with four horses than with two. In -the latter the leader has no horse at his side to steady him; but if -well trained he will travel straight, and not attempt to turn around -and join the wheeler. Should he do this, and not respond to the reins, -the whip should hit his neck with force sufficient to make him change -his mind. - -As a last resort, the wheeler must be turned to follow him, and then -they must both be made to proceed in the direction desired by the -driver. If the leader, instead of being exactly in front of the -wheeler, gets too far to the right, his near rein should be shortened; -but the wheeler must be made to meet him half-way by pulling his off -rein at the same time. In the opposite case the off-lead and -near-wheel reins must be shortened. - -[Sidenote: Turning] - -To turn a corner, say to the left, with a tandem or a four, the -near-lead rein should be looped by taking up several inches, pushing -it back of the forefinger, and holding it there in this shape with the -thumb. The right hand must be placed on both off reins, to guard -against the turn being made too sharply, and the cart or coach being -brought into contact with the corner. To turn to the right, the -reverse tactics are employed, but it is more difficult to loop the -off rein. - -When the corner has been successfully rounded, the right hand should -be taken away and the left thumb raised, thus leaving the horses in a -position to go straight. - -In going downhill all the reins should be shortened, and care taken -that the leaders' traces particularly are loose, or they may pull the -wheelers down when these should be holding back the coach. - -The wheelers should always, if possible, start and stop the load. - -In going uphill the leaders must do their full share, and on the level -each horse must be kept up to his work. - -An unnecessary nervous fingering of the reins should be avoided, as, -besides being most unworkmanlike, it irritates the horses. - -It is the height of folly for a woman to attempt to drive a tandem or -a four-in-hand until she is thoroughly familiar with one horse and a -pair. She may understand the theory of it, but until she has had some -practice under proper instruction she should not take the reins, -unless some one is near to assist her, or she will endanger not only -her own safety, but jeopard that of those who may accompany her. - - -FINIS - - - * * * * * - - - - -BLAIKIE'S HOW TO GET STRONG. - - How to Get Strong, and How to Stay So. By WILLIAM BLAIKIE. - Illustrated. 16 mo, Cloth, $1 00. - -Mr. Blaikie has treated his theme in a practical common-sense way that -appeals at once to the judgment and the understanding. A complete and -healthful system of exercise is given for boys and girls; instructions -are set down for the development of every individual class of muscles, -and there is sound advice for daily exercise for children, young men -and women, business men and consumptives. There are instructions for -home gymnastics, and an easy routine of practice laid out.--_Saturday -Evening Gazette_, Boston. - -Every word of it has been tested and confirmed by the author's own -experience. It may be read with interest and profit by all.--_Christian -Instructor_, Chicago. - -A successful performance, everything in the line of gymnastic exercise -receiving copious illustrations by pen and pencil. The author's aim is -genuinely philanthropic, in the right sense of the word, and his work -is a useful contribution to the cause of physical culture.--_Christian -Register_, Boston. - - -Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, New York. - -_The above work will be sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part -of the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of the price._ - - - - -BLAIKIE'S SOUND BODIES. - - Sound Bodies for our Boys and Girls. By WILLIAM BLAIKIE. - With Illustrations. 16 mo, Cloth, 40 cents. A manual of safe - and simple exercises for developing the physical system. - -Mr. William Blaikie's new manual cannot fail to receive a warm welcome -from parents and teachers, and should be introduced as a working -text-book into thousands of schools throughout the country.--_Boston -Herald._ - -A book which ought to be placed at the elbow of every -school-teacher.--_Springfield Union._ - -The directions are so simple and sensible that they appeal to the -reason of every parent and teacher.--_Philadelphia Press._ - -The influence of judicious exercise upon mind as well as body cannot -be overestimated, and this will be a safe guide to this end, requiring -no costume nor expensive apparatus.--_Presbyterian_, Philadelphia. - - -Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, New York. - -_The above work will be sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part -of the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of the price._ - - - - - * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber's note: - -Obvious typographical errors were corrected. - -Hyphenation variants were retained as in the original. - -Illustration List: "Hands and Seat in Rearing ... facing P. 66." The -illustration was actually facing P. 64; it has been moved to P. 66. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW WOMEN SHOULD RIDE*** - - -******* This file should be named 40220.txt or 40220.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/0/2/2/40220 - - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, -set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to -copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to -protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project -Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you -charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you -do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the -rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose -such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and -research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do -practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is -subject to the trademark license, especially commercial -redistribution. - - - -*** START: FULL LICENSE *** - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project -Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at - www.gutenberg.org/license. - - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy -all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. -If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the -terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or -entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement -and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" -or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the -collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an -individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are -located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from -copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative -works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg -are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project -Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by -freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of -this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with -the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by -keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project -Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in -a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check -the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement -before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or -creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project -Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning -the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United -States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate -access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently -whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, -copied or distributed: - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived -from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is -posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied -and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees -or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work -with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the -work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 -through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the -Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or -1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional -terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked -to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the -permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any -word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or -distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than -"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version -posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), -you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a -copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon -request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other -form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided -that - -- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is - owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he - has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the - Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments - must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you - prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax - returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and - sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the - address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to - the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." - -- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or - destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium - and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of - Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any - money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days - of receipt of the work. - -- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set -forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from -both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael -Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the -Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm -collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain -"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or -corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual -property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a -computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by -your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with -your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with -the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a -refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity -providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to -receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy -is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further -opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER -WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO -WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. -If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the -law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be -interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by -the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any -provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance -with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, -promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, -harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, -that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do -or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm -work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any -Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. - - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers -including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists -because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from -people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. -To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation -and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 -and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive -Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent -permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. -Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered -throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at 809 -North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email -contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the -Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To -SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any -particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. -To donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm -concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared -with anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project -Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. -unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. |