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diff --git a/40132.txt b/40132.txt deleted file mode 100644 index f78bd4d..0000000 --- a/40132.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6934 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Report on Washington Territory, by -William Henry Ruffner - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: A Report on Washington Territory - -Author: William Henry Ruffner - -Release Date: July 3, 2012 [EBook #40132] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A REPORT ON WASHINGTON TERRITORY *** - - - - -Produced by Pat McCoy, David E. Brown, Bryan Ness and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This file was produced from images generously made -available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - -TRANSCRIBER NOTES: - - Words contained within underscores indicate that they were italized - in the original. Example: _First_. - - Additional notes can be found at the end of this project. - - Some of the tables have been modified to fit in the space allowed. - - - - - [Illustration: UPPER SNOQUALMIE FALLS, 120 FEET HIGH.] - - - - - A REPORT ON WASHINGTON - TERRITORY - - BY - W. H. RUFFNER, LL.D. - - ILLUSTRATED - - [Illustration] - - NEW YORK - SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN RAILWAY - 1889 - - - - - COPYRIGHT, 1889 - BY SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN RAILWAY - - - PRESS OF - FLEMING . BREWSTER & ALLEY . NEW YORK - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The matter of this Report on Washington Territory is so arranged that -the reader, by referring to the table of contents, can turn at once to -any particular topic. The report is divided into six chapters, to wit: - -_First_, Itinerary, which mentions briefly the places I visited, and the -dates. - -_Second_, A General Account of Washington Territory, which includes -something of its History, its Location, and its great Pacific Market. -Under the last of these heads is given a large body of facts which will -surprise any one who has not studied the peculiar commercial advantages -of our Pacific States, and above all, of Puget Sound. There is also -given some account of the topography, climate, soils and natural -vegetation, with special stress upon the great forests of the Puget -Sound basin. The lumber industry is next described, followed by a -somewhat full account of agricultural products, especially those of the -Great Plain of the Columbia River. Finally, in this division, something -is said of the available labor of the country. - -_Third_, Geology of Washington Territory. In one division I endeavor to -give the Historical and Structural Geology of the Territory, and in -another division I give the Economic Geology. In the latter I describe -the beds of coal, iron ore, granite, limestone and marble, and also the -ores of the precious and base metals as they have been discovered in all -parts of the Territory. - -_Fourth_, the special interests of the Seattle, Lake Shore and Eastern -Railway are discussed. I begin with Seattle, to show its advantages as a -terminus. I then say something of the terminal property owned by this -Company, and of the suburban interests of many kinds, such as -residences, parks, gardens and industrial works which are likely to grow -up along the first twenty miles of this railway. I then take up the -great timber interest along the line, which, in its magnitude and value, -will give this road pre-eminence over all others. The agricultural -products along the line are next spoken of. I then take up the great -coal interest which will minister so largely to the road--an interest -whose magnitude can be readily inferred from the fact that this railway -will pass through, or near, five and perhaps six distinct coal fields -between Puget Sound and the Columbia River. I next show the advantages -which this road will have in the development of the great magnetic -iron-ore beds on both sides of the Cascade Mountains, and also the -remarkable juxtaposition of ore, flux and fuel, which are found in the -Snoqualmie Valley. Attention is also called to the business which is -likely to arise from the limestones, marble and granite for building and -monumental purposes. Finally, I call attention to the great advantage -which this road will have, or, at least, may have, in controlling the -large and increasing business connected with the mines of precious and -base metals, which are being opened north and east of this line. - -_Fifth_, Cities and Towns are briefly noticed which will, or may, bear -an important relation to the Seattle Road. - -_Sixth_, a supplementary chapter, giving latest information. - - W. H. RUFFNER. - - LEXINGTON, VA. - - - - -INDEX. - - - PAGE - -ITINERARY 17 - - Great Plain, 17--Cascade Mountains, 17--Hop Ranch, - 17--Snoqualmie Pass, 18--Guye Mines, 18--Mt. Logan, - 18--Denny Mines, 19--Salal Prairie, 19--Moss Bay Co., - 19--Raging River, 20--Gilman Mines, 20--Blakeley Mills, - 20--Wilkeson Mines, 20--Kirke's Coal Mines, 21--Portland, - 23--Spokane Falls, 23--Good weather, 25. - - -GENERAL ACCOUNT OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY 26 - - HISTORICAL 26 - - Denny, of Denny Mines, 26--Causes of delay in settlement, - 26--Population of Washington Territory, 27. - - LOCATION AND MARKET 27 - - Majority of the human race in the countries of the - Pacific, 28--Change in the currents of trade, 28--The - China trade, 29--The trade of the Amoor River, Japan, - etc., 31--The new railroad across Siberia to St. - Petersburg, 32--The American Pacific States have decisive - advantages over all others in controlling the Pacific - trade, 33--Advantages in distances, 34. - - ROUGH ESTIMATES OF DISTANCES 34 - - Advantage in productions, 36--Coastwise trade, 36--South - American trade, 36--Large existing trade, 37. - - TABLE--Ports of the Pacific showing total value of Exports of - Domestic Merchandise for year ending June 30, 1885, June - 30, 1887, and total value of Imports of Merchandise for - year ending June 30, 1885, June 30, 1887. - 38 - -PRINCIPAL EXPORTS OF DOMESTIC MERCHANDISE, YEAR ENDING -JUNE 30, 1885 39 - - APPENDIX--List of Exports of Domestic Merchandise, year ending - June 30, 1885. Exported from the seven Customs Districts - of the Pacific, 39--List of Imports of Merchandise, year - ending June 30, 1885. Imported into the seven Customs - Districts of the Pacific 41 - - APPROXIMATE POPULATION IN THE YEAR 1887 OF THE WORLD 42 - - TOPOGRAPHY OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY 43 - - Puget Sound, 44--Lake Washington, 44--West Washington and - East Washington, 45--Coeur d'Alene Mountains, 46--The - Great Plateau, 47--Coulees, 47--Columbia and Snake Rivers, - 48. - - ALTITUDES IN WASHINGTON TERRITORY 49 - - CLIMATE 49 - - The climate of Washington Territory, 49--Mild and equable, - 51--Rainfall, 51--No blizzards or cyclones, - 53--Differences between East and West Washington, - 53--Chinook wind, 55. - - SOILS 55 - - Soils all fertile, 55. - - TABLE SHOWING THE MEANS OF THE DAILY MAXIMUM AND MINIMUM - TEMPERATURES IN DEGREES FAHRENHEIT 56 - - TABLE SHOWING THE AVERAGE PRECIPITATION AT STATIONS OF THE - SIGNAL SERVICE 57 - - A remarkable soil, 60. - - NATURAL VEGETATION 61 - - Vast vegetation, 61--Deciduous trees, 62--Larch, - 62--Extraordinary evergreen forests, 63--Douglas fir, or - Oregon pine, 63--The best of ship timber, 64--White cedar, - 65--Beautiful house lumber, 65--Hemlock spruce, - 65--Tanners wanted, 66--White pine, 66--Balsam fir, - 66--Large supply of Canada Balsam, 67--The yew, 67--The - superior timber of Snoqualmie Valley, 67--Range for horses - and cattle, 69. - - LUMBERING 69 - - Magnitude of the lumber business, 70--Vast extent of the - lumber market, 70--The great saw-mills, 71--Profits and - prices, 73. - - AGRICULTURE 73 - - Clearing the land, 73--Demand for agricultural products, - 74--Large crops, 74--Hop-growing on a large scale, 74--The - changed agricultural conditions of East Washington, - 75--Irrigation in the Yakima Valley, 75--Varied crops, - 77--The Great Plain, 77--Boundaries, 78--Early history, - 78--Area and population, 79--Amazing wheat crops: - surpassing all other States, 79--Railroads overwhelmed - with freight, 80--Price of wheat and cost of production, - 81--Also barley and oats, 83--The soil a natural - fertilizer, 84--Quality of the wheat, 84--The market in - England, China, and other Asiatic ports, 85--Astonishing - growth of vegetables, 85--Crops without rain, 86--West - (not East) Washington to be the great cattle country, - 86--Tree-planting, 87. - - LABOR 88 - - Good supply of labor, but more wanted, 88--Wages, 88. - - -THE GEOLOGY OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY 90 - - HISTORICAL AND STRUCTURAL 90 - - The Western Coast regions younger than the Rocky Mountains - and Appalachians, 91--An outlying Continent, 91--The rise - of the West Coast, 92--The rocks and minerals of the - Cascade Mountains, 93--The metamorphic rocks of doubtful - origin, 93--The coal beds, 94--The volcanic mountains and - their great activity, 95--The wonderful canon of the - Columbia River, 96--The great sheets of basalt, 96--Origin - of the rich soil of East Washington, 97--The volcanoes not - wholly extinct, 98--Glacial drift, 98. - - ECONOMIC GEOLOGY 99 - - I. Coal 99 - - Thickness of the Coal Measures, 99--Fifteen workable - seams, 100--Different kinds of coal described, 100--The - chemical changes in coal beds, 101--Deficient - nomenclature, 102--Lignite an unsuitable name for the - coals of Washington Territory, 103--The coking quality not - general in these coals, but found in some, 104--Analyses - of Washington Territory coals, 106. - - THE COLLIERIES 106 - - Authorities, 106. - - ANALYSES OF REPRESENTATIVE SAMPLES OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY - COALS AND LIGNITES 107 - - The different mines, 108. - - _a._ Carbon River Group 108 - - Anthracite, coking and gas coals, 108. - - _b._ The Green River Group 110 - The Common Point, equidistant between Tacoma and Seattle, - 111--Franklin and Black Diamond mines, 112--The Kirke or - Moss Bay Company (English) mines, 112. - - _c._ The Cedar River Group 117 - - Cedar River mines, 117--Talbot and Renton mines, - 118--Newcastle Mine, 118--Cost of mining, 119--Large - production, 119--Misrepresentation, 120--Correction by Mr. - Whitworth, 122. - - _d._ The Squak Creek, Raging River, and Snoqualmie Group 125 - - Gilman Mines, 125--Structure of Squak Mountain, - 125--Peculiar advantages for mining possessed by the - Gilman Mines, 127--Seattle Coal and Iron Company, - 127--Seven seams, 128--Details, 128--Good coal, - 128--Another good coal seam, 128--And another, 129--Large - body of valuable coal, 131--Washington Mines, 132--Raging - River coals, 132--Details, 134--Snoqualmie Mountain Coal - Group, 136--Details, 136--Good coking coal, 136--Also good - coking coal, 138--Large and valuable bed, 138--Another - good bed, 139--Geological relations, 139--This the bottom - group, 140. - - _e._ The Yakima and Wenatchie Group 140 - - Yakima or Roslyn coal field, 140--Coal on the Wenatchie, - 141--Coal under the Great Bend country, 142. - - _f._ Bellingham Bay, Skagit River, and other Coal Fields 142 - - The first mining on Bellingham Bay, 142--Coal on Skagit - River, 142--Coal south of Puget Sound, 144--Total - shipments of coal from Washington Territory, 144. - - _g._ Coal Seams in British Columbia 145 - - Coal on Vancouver's Island, 145. - - II. Iron Ore 146 - - The iron ores, 146--The great magnetic ore beds of Cascade - Mountains, 147--Resembles the Cranberry ore deposits, - 147--Guye Mine on Mount Logan, 148--Denny Mine, - 149--Chair Peak, or Kelly Mine, 149--Middle Fork Mines, - 150--All easily reached from Seattle, Lake Shore and - Eastern Railway, 150--Cle-ellum ore beds, 150--Burch's ore - bed, 152--Dudley ore bed, 153--Undoubtedly large beds of - steel ores, 153--Of superior quality, 153. - - ANALYSES OF SNOQUALMIE IRON ORES 154 - - Proved by analysis to be unsurpassed, if equaled, 155. - - COMPARATIVE ANALYSES OF STEEL ORES 155 - - Improved processes, 156. - - III. Granite, Limestone and Marble 157 - - Granite, 157--Marble and Limestone, 158. - - IV. The Precious and Base Metals 159 - - Precious metals on Cascade Mountains, 159--On Cle-ellum - River, 160--Large copper vein in Stevens County, - 161--Precious metals on Methow River, 161--The rich mines - of Okanogan, 162--The mines in the Colville region, - 164--The Old Dominion Mine, 165--The Daisy Mine, - 165--Young America Company, 166--The Little Dalles, - 166--Coeur d'Alene Mines, 167--The large tonnage from - and to the mines, 169. - -SPECIAL REMARKS ON THE COUNTRY AND ITS RESOURCES ALONG THE LINE OF THE -SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN RAILWAY 171 - - SEATTLE 171 - - Commercial and manufacturing advantages, 171--Good - climate, 171--Good population, 172--High civilization, - 172--Railroad lines, 173--The chief ship-building centre, - 174--Seattle better located than San Francisco, 174. - - THE TERMINAL PROPERTY OF THE SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE - AND EASTERN RAILWAY 175 - - Unrivalled terminal property, 175. - - SUBURBAN INTERESTS 175 - - But two entrances by land, 175--Superiority of the - northern suburbs, 175--Factories of the future, 176--Ship - canal, 176. - - TIMBER 176 - - Superiority of the timber on the Seattle, Lake Shore and - Eastern Railway, 177--The forests described, 178--Forests - of Raging River, 178--Forests near Hop Ranch, - 179--Superior to the Long Leaf forests of the Southern - States and of the Mississippi Bottom, 180--Trees ten feet - in diameter, 180--Average nearly five feet in diameter and - 250 feet high, 181--Lumber product per acre, 181. - - AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS 183 - - Agricultural freights, 183--Produce of Hop Ranch, - 183--Farming, fruit and grazing lands, 185--Hops, barley - and beer, 186--The two great railroads, 187--The Great - Bend country, 187--Douglas County, 188--Lincoln County, - 189--Spokane County, 189--Price of farming lands, - 189--Tonnage, 190. - - COAL 191 - - The Seattle railway passes five coal fields, 191--Largest - shipments from the Gilman Mines, 192--Superior mining - advantages of the Gilman Mines, 193--Mr. Whitworth's - testimony, 193--Cost of mining coal, 196--Cost at Gilman - Mines, 197--Prices of coal, 197. - - IRON ORE 199 - - Handling the iron ores, 199--Furnace sites, 199--Salal - Prairie, 200--Charcoal cheaply produced, 200--Quantity of - charcoal to the ton of iron, 201--Bessemer ores commonly - distant from fuel, 202--High cost of Lake Superior ores, - 203--Cost of producing ore in Pennsylvania, 203--Cost of - Bessemer-pig in Snoqualmie Valley, 203--Large market for - steel rails, 204. - - THE OTHER MINERALS 204 - - Limestone, 204--Marble, granite, sandstones, slates, - 204--Precious and base metals, 205--Okanogan, Colville and - Kootenai, 205--Coeur d'Alene, 206--Transportation lines - to the mining regions, 206. - - -CITIES AND TOWNS 209 - - The only competition is between Tacoma and Seattle, - 209--Advantages of Seattle, 210--Towns of East Washington, - 210--Spokane Falls and its fine prospects, 211--Mr. Paul - F. Mohr's article, 211--Sprague, Colfax, and Lewiston, - 215--Notes on the Colfax country, 216--Lewiston, - 217--Walla Walla, 217. - - BRANCHES AND ROUTES FOR THE SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE - AND EASTERN RAILWAY 218 - - Railroad branches, 218--The Palouse country, - 219--Arguments for the Palouse branch, 220--Manitoba - railroad, 220. - - -SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER, GIVING LATEST INFORMATION 222 - - Rapid growth of Seattle and Spokane Falls, 222--Change in - the location of the railroad, 222. - - REPORT FROM F. H. WHITWORTH, ESQ., CIVIL AND MINING ENGINEER - ON SEATTLE, ETC. 223 - - Population of Seattle, 224--New manufacturing - establishments, 224--New steamers, 224--The iron company - at work, 225--Coking coals, 225--New discoveries of iron - ore, 227--Lumber business growing, 228--Population and - freights increasing, 228--Labor strike at Gilman Mine, - 228--Gilman coal seams, 229--Progress of the West Coast - Railroad, 229--Resources of the country along the new line - across Cady's Pass, 230--Progress in building the road, - 231--Cable Railway in Seattle, 231--Southern Pacific - Railroad supposed to be coming to Seattle Harbor, 231. - - REPORT FROM E. A. ROUTHE, ESQ., CONCERNING SPOKANE - FALLS, ETC. 232 - - Growth of Spokane Falls, 232--Prodigious development of - the mining interest, 233. - - REPORT FROM PAUL F. MOHR, ESQ., CONCERNING THE - CADY'S PASS AND WENATCHIE ROUTE 234 - - I. ENGINEERING FEATURES 234 - - Engineering details of the new route, 234. - - II. RESOURCES 236 - - Mr. Mohr's account of the resources of the new route, 236 - - III. SCENERY 238 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - UPPER SNOQUALMIE FALLS. FRONTISPIECE. - - LAKE WASHINGTON--SHOWING MOUNT RANIER IN - THE DISTANCE. FACING PAGE 44. - - A VIEW OF THE FOREST. FACING PAGE 62. - - INDIANS GATHERING HOPS. FACING PAGE 74. - - BRIDGE OVER THE SPOKANE RIVER. FACING PAGE 88. - - LOWER SNOQUALMIE FALLS. FACING PAGE 92. - - ENTRANCE TO GILMAN COAL MINE. FACING PAGE 106. - - COAL-BUNKERS ON SEATTLE HARBOR. FACING PAGE 128. - - A TRAIN-LOAD OF LOGS. FACING PAGE 176. - - HAY-MAKING IN WASHINGTON TERRITORY. FACING PAGE 184. - - VIEW OF THE CITY OF SPOKANE FALLS. FACING PAGE 210. - - VIEW OF SEATTLE AND THE HARBOR. FACING PAGE 222. - - - - -LIST OF MAPS. - - - MAP OF ASIA AND PACIFIC OCEAN. FACING PAGE 27. - - MAP OF WILKESON COALFIELD. FACING PAGE 109. - - MAP OF THE CITY OF SEATTLE. FACING PAGE 170. - - MAP OF SPOKANE FALLS. FACING PAGE 232. - - MAP OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY. IN POCKET, INSIDE BACK COVER. - - MAP OF UNITED STATES. IN POCKET, INSIDE BACK COVER. - - - - -ITINERARY. - - - [Sidenote: Great Plain.] - - [Sidenote: Cascade Mountains.] - - [Sidenote: Hop Ranch.] - -I entered Washington Territory, by way of the Northern Pacific Railroad, -on the morning of October 27, 1887, coming first to the valley of the -Spokane River, and spending the entire day in traversing the plains of -Eastern Washington, reaching Pasco Junction a little after nightfall. I -crossed the Cascade Mountains on the Switchback, and arrived at Tacoma -about noon of the 28th, at which point I took a Puget Sound steamer, and -landed at Seattle about four P.M. the same day. The next morning, -accompanied by Mr. F. H. Whitworth, engineer, and Mr. F. M. Guye, I went -out on the Columbia and Puget Sound Railroad to the end of the road, -near Newcastle, where we took horses, and reached Hop Ranch, on the -Snoqualmie River, the same night. - -October 30.--Proceeded up the south fork of the Snoqualmie River, and -reached the engineers' camp near the top of Cascade Mountain, at -Snoqualmie Pass. Distances by rail and by wagon road: Seattle to Coal -Creek, near Newcastle, twenty miles; Coal Creek to Squak Valley, five -miles; Squak to Falls City, ten miles; Falls City to Hop Ranch (or -Snoqualmie) six miles; Hop Ranch to Engineers' Camp, twenty-six miles; -Camp to Summit, five miles. - - [Sidenote: Snoqualmie Pass.] - -The railroad on which I left Seattle is a narrow-gauge coal road. -Between its terminus and Squak Valley is a high mountain spur. The -proportion of cleared land along this whole line is not large in -comparison with the forests of evergreen timber, but there are many -farms of great fertility, some of them large. The timber increases in -quantity and size nearly to the top of the mountain. On these points I -shall speak fully hereafter. My object in thus hastening to the Cascade -Mountains was to make my observations first at the point where I was -most likely to be interrupted by bad weather. I found the engineers, -headed by Mr. Thompson, busily engaged in making the location of the -railroad, beginning at Snoqualmie Pass (the summit), and working -westward and downward, so as to connect with their finished work in the -neighborhood of Hop Ranch. - - [Sidenote: Guye Mines.] - - [Sidenote: Mt. Logan.] - -Spending the night of October 30 at the camp, I went next morning to the -Guye Iron Mines, which were one mile from the line of the railroad. The -outcrops of ore and limestone lie high on a mountain, which I named -Mount Logan, in honor of General T. M. Logan, who seems to have been -among the first of the Eastern men to put faith in the resources of this -remarkable region. I returned in the evening to the engineers' camp. - - [Sidenote: Denny Mine.] - -The next day, November 1, I spent visiting the Denny Mine, two miles -from the railroad line, and also high on a mountain, and again returned -to camp. The Chair Peak Mine (also called the Kelley Mine), thirteen -miles distant from the railroad, and Guye's Mine on Middle Fork -Mountain, six miles distant, I did not visit, owing to want of time. - - [Sidenote: Salal Prairie.] - - [Sidenote: Moss Bay Co.] - -November 2.--First rain. We returned down the mountain, and stopped for -an hour at Salal Prairie, where we found a large camp occupied by the -employees of the Moss Bay Iron and Steel Company, of England, who -expected to build iron furnaces on this admirable location.[A] This -night we spent at Hop Ranch, a description of which is given hereafter. - - [A] This wealthy company has since determined to establish its works - on Lake Washington, at Kirkland. - -November 3.--Spent the most of this day in examining the coking coal -beds on Snoqualmie Mountain, three miles from Hop Ranch, and reached -Falls City that night, pausing by the way to look upon that wonderful -sight, the Snoqualmie River Falls, 267 feet high. - - [Sidenote: Raging River.] - -November 4.--Left the line of the railroad and went up Raging River ten -miles, where I visited the coal openings, and spent the night at the -miners' camp. The Raging River valley and mountain-sides are covered -with large timber. - - [Sidenote: Gilman Mines.] - -November 5.--Descended Raging River valley six miles to the line of the -railroad, which we followed to the Gilman Coal Mines, on Squak, passing -a bed of ochreous earth, which might have value for paint, and may lead -to a bed of iron-ore. - -At Camp Gilman I looked at all the openings which were accessible, and -observed the preparations making for large mining. Spent the night at -Tibbett's in Squak Valley, two miles distant. - -November 6.--Returned to Seattle. - -November 7.--In Seattle. - - [Sidenote: Blakeley Mills.] - -November 8.--Crossed Puget Sound to the great Blakeley Lumber Mills, and -also examined Mrs. Guye's large collection of the minerals of Washington -Territory. - -November 9.--Made short excursions in and around Seattle, including a -trip on the Seattle, Lake Shore and Eastern Railway, fourteen miles out. - - [Sidenote: Wilkeson Mines.] - -November 10.--Went to the Wilkeson Coal Mines, where I found the only -coke ovens I saw in the Territory. - -November 11.--Returned to Seattle by way of Tacoma, where I met Mr. -Peter Kirke, the partner and agent of the Moss Bay Company, who is -preparing to erect a steel plant; but whether he intended to build at -Salal Prairie or at Cle-ellum, I could not ascertain. In fact, I am not -sure that he had then determined in his own mind. - -November 12.--Excursions around Seattle, especially around the borders -of the lakes. - -November 13.--The first Sunday I have been able to observe like a -Christian. - -November 14 and 15.--Collecting information and constructing maps. - -November 16.--Out on the line of the S. L. S. & E. Railway eighteen -miles. - - [Sidenote: Kirke's Coal Mines.] - -November 17.--To Kirke's Coal Mines on Green River. By rail as far as -the Franklin Coal Mines, passing the Renton, Cedar Mountain and Black -Diamond mines. At Franklin Mines, took horses to the Green River Mines, -seven miles, where we spent the night at Mr. Kirke's camp. - -November 18.--Last evening and to-day, examined all the openings on Mr. -Kirke's property, and one opening on Section 34, Sugar-Loaf Mountain, -owned by Mr. Whitworth and others; and took the Northern Pacific -Railroad cars at the Common Point, and got back to Seattle the same -night. - -November 19.--In Seattle working on maps. - -November 20.--Sunday. - -November 21.--Remained in Seattle. - -November 22.--Went to Portland, Oregon. I will here say that Mr. F. H. -Whitworth accompanied me on all my trips away from Seattle, and -superintended the construction of my large maps, which were made in his -own office. I found him a most obliging gentleman, and exceedingly well -informed about the country. He was untiring also in collecting for me -such information as he did not already possess. Judge Burke, Mr. Leary, -Mr. Mackintosh, Governor Squire, Judge Lewis, Dr. Minor (the Mayor), -etc., were exceedingly attentive, Judge Burke especially so. Other -citizens, such as Chancellor Jones, ex-Governor Ferry, Mr. Arthur A. -Denny (the oldest citizen on Puget Sound), Mr. F. M. Guye, Dr. Cumming, -Mr. Haller, etc., were cordial, and ready to do me any service. Indeed, -the citizens of Seattle, so far as I became acquainted with them, showed -themselves in enthusiastic sympathy with the new railroad enterprise. - - [Sidenote: Portland.] - -November 23.--Spent the day in visiting the Oswego Iron Works, six miles -from Portland, in company with Mr. S. G. Reed, president of the Oregon -Iron and Steel Company. The only point of special interest connected -with these unfinished iron-works, is that Mr. Reed is looking forward -impatiently to the progress of the S. L. S. & E. road, expecting to -receive from it magnetic ore for mixture, also limestone and coke. - -November 24.--Ascended the Columbia River by steamer, with six miles of -portage, to the Dalles, where I took the Northern Pacific train for -Spokane Falls, having daylight from Pasco Junction. - -November 25.--Nothing could be more unjust to the country than the -location of the Northern Pacific Railroad, which runs most of the way to -Spokane Falls in a _coulee_ (or dry river bed), which completely hides -most of the farming land from the traveler. - - [Sidenote: Spokane Falls.] - -November 26.--In Spokane Falls, which I found to be a rapidly growing -city of 7,000 to 8,000 people, who are pressing the interests of the -town with amazing energy. Mr. Routhe, president of the Board of Trade; -Mr. Cannon, president of the Bank of Spokane Falls; Mr. Paul F. Mohr, -Mr. Curtis, Mr. Nash, and quite a number of other prominent citizens, -called upon me, and showed the liveliest interest in the Seattle, Lake -Shore and Eastern Railway. I collected here a mass of valuable -information concerning the agricultural and mineral resources of Eastern -Washington; this being an important centre of trade for farmers and -miners. - -November 27.--Sunday. - -November 28, 29 and 30.--Went out on the Spokane Falls and Palouse -Railroad to the Palouse River country. At Garfield I took the train to -Colfax, which I found to be also a flourishing place, and wide awake in -reference to the Seattle road. The citizens here were also ready to do -all in their power to aid the enterprise. - -December 1.--Arrived at Walla Walla, another of the great wheat centres, -where I found leading citizens well informed as to the new railroad, but -not indulging much hope of its coming within striking distance, except -in the remote contingency of Snake River Valley being selected as the -route of the Manitoba Railroad. - - [Sidenote: Good weather.] - -December 2.--In the afternoon came south fifty miles, to Pendleton, in -Oregon, and on the morning of the 3d started for home by way of the -Oregon Short Line and Union Pacific. By this time the earth was covered -with a light snow; but upon the whole, the weather during my trip was -pleasant--certainly not so much falling weather as I had a right to -expect, and no severe cold. - -Thus I was five weeks and two days in Washington Territory. The entire -trip, from the time I left Lexington until my return, was seven weeks -and two days. Miles traveled, 8,500. - - - - -A GENERAL ACCOUNT OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY. - - -HISTORICAL. - - [Sidenote: Denny, of Denny Mines.] - - [Sidenote: Causes of delay in settlement.] - -The first white man who ever settled near the site of Seattle (Mr. -Arthur A. Denny) now lives in that city, and can scarcely be called an -old man. The country remained unsettled so long, partly because of its -inaccessibility from the East, and partly because it was disputed -territory between the United States and Great Britain. It became a -separate Territory only in 1853. No transcontinental line of railroad -touched any part of Washington Territory until four years ago, when the -Northern Pacific passed across the eastern part of the Territory, and -united with the road along the Columbia River, which had been built by -the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company, and which had barely entered -this Territory. Following this line to Portland, Oregon, and then -completing the road from Portland, northward, the railroad reached Puget -Sound at Tacoma by this circuitous route in 1883. - -The Northern Pacific Railroad has, during the present year (1887), -succeeded in reaching Tacoma by a more direct, though still angular, -line, crossing the Cascade Mountains at Stampede Pass. - - [Illustration: MAP OF ASIA AND PACIFIC OCEAN.] - -Whilst thus comparatively unknown and inaccessible, it is not surprising -that population should at first come in slowly. Those who came to -Western Washington were chiefly lumbermen. Since that time farmers have -settled large tracts of country, commerce has become large, and now -every interest is going forward with great rapidity. - - [Sidenote: Population of Washington Territory.] - -The population in 1880 was 67,000. Governor Semple, in his report for -1887, puts the population at 143,669, which shows a gain in seven years -of over 100 per cent. But the Governor himself declares that the -enumerations made since 1880 are unreliable, and it is claimed by -intelligent gentlemen in Seattle that the present population exceeds -175,000. It is increasing rapidly day by day. The fact seems suddenly to -have burst upon the country at large that here, in this neglected -corner, is a wide region offering perhaps the richest inducements to -immigration of any part of the United States. - - -LOCATION AND MARKET. - - (This should be read with a map of Asia and Pacific Ocean.) - -In spite of Oriental exclusiveness, now broken down, the Asiatic trade -has always formed a large element in the commerce of the world, and has -long been sought by the great maritime powers of Europe, especially by -England. For this she conquered India, and seized upon many islands of -the ocean. For this she battered in the gates of China, and established -herself permanently at Hong Kong, at the entrance to the River of -Canton. - - [Sidenote: Majority of the human race in the countries of the Pacific.] - - [Sidenote: Change in the currents of trade.] - -In these countries, and upon these islands, live more than half the -human race, and with all the barbarism of some, and the old-fashioned -civilization of even the best, the large majority of these people are -producers of a multitude of articles wanted by the civilized world. And -of late these peoples have become possessed with a strange desire to -avail themselves of the products of European and American art. This -market will not only grow rapidly in its demands, but the currents of -trade will be diverted from Europe to America. In fact, the settlement -of the west coast of America inaugurated a revolution greater than that -which substituted the voyage around the Cape of Good Hope for the camel -train across the Asiatic continent. It gave America a standpoint from -which she would ultimately wrest the bulk of the vast trade of the -Orient from Europe. The cutting of the Suez Canal mended the hold of -England and other maritime European states on the Oriental market, in -fact secured for them the advantage of a shorter line to the Southern -Asiatic market as far as the Malay Peninsula; but as for the rest of -that great market included in the Pacific Islands, the Chinese Empire, -Japan and Siberia, the revolutionary movement has commenced, whereby the -bulk of that trade will be taken from England and Holland by the -merchants of San Francisco and Puget Sound. - - [Sidenote: The China trade.] - -The trade of China alone has been estimated at $130,000,000 per annum, -the greater part of which is absorbed by England, and the annual value -of the export and import trade of England with the Pacific Islands has -been put at $75,000,000. This already immense market may and will be -enlarged, especially in China, by means of railroad and steamboat -connections, which will bring to the coast the products of the interior -sections. Much of the China trade now goes overland into and through -India, and also through Siberia, to be consumed by the way, or pushed -through to the termini of European railroads and ship-lines which are -reaching to get it. And, as the transportation becomes better, so will -the production increase. Railroad building, until lately forbidden in -China, has now commenced, and will, in the nature of the case, go on -rapidly. The result will be to bring most of the trade to the Pacific -coast, and thus reverse all the interior movements. - -Even the capital of the Empire, the great Peking, and the productive -region around it, have depended largely on the overland trade to Europe, -and especially on the great Russian market opened annually at Novgorod. -It only needs a railroad from the back country, through Peking direct to -the coast, to bring this large trade under American control. Mr. James -G. Swan (Hawaiian Consul) has written a valuable pamphlet on the regions -drained by the Amoor River, in which he shows that there is an immense -trade "now lying dormant in Siberia, Mongolia, Manchooria, Northern -China, Corea and Japan, which will be brought into active life and -diverted to the American shore of the North Pacific Ocean by the great -continental railroads which will have the outlet of their commerce -through the Straits of Fuca." - -He gives the population of these countries as follows: - - Siberia 4,000,000 - Mongolia 12,000,000 - Manchooria 5,000,000 - Japan 36,000,000 - ---------- - Total 57,000,000 - - [Sidenote: The trade of the Amoor River, Japan, etc.] - -The Amoor River, with its great Chinese tributary, the Songaree, -furnishes over 2,600 miles of steamboat navigation (a second -Mississippi), but, owing to a great bend to the south, the Amoor can be -reached by a short line of railroad from the Russian port Vladivostock, -or Poisette Harbor. Japan lies on the way from Puget Sound to the region -referred to. Major Collins, some years ago, said in a letter to -Secretary Marcy concerning this market: "One item, cotton fabrics, might -be introduced to the amount of millions yearly; then there are many -products of these countries that could be received in exchange. This -must be done through the Amoor and its affluents. It can hardly be -estimated what a revolution in trade and commerce can be effected in -this region; and the fondness of the people for luxuries and foreign -merchandise being very great, if the means of procuring them were -facilitated and the prices cheapened, the consumption would be immense, -and in a few years a trade of many millions would be effected." - -Major Collins thought that these people would consume annually five -dollars per head of American goods; Mr. Swan estimates two dollars per -head. These goods would be paid for in silks, tea, rice, furs, skins, -wax, fossil ivory, plumbago, tin, precious stones, naval stores, etc. -It is said that the overland trade of North China to Russia now requires -for its transportation a caravan line of 36,000 camels and bullocks, and -100,000 horses, and that the Siberian trade is as large as that of -China. The tea sold at Novgorod amounts to $5,000,000 each annual fair. -The caravan tea is preferred to the ship tea, which is said to be -injured by the voyage through the tropics; another argument for the -North American route. - - [Sidenote: The new railroad across Siberia to St. Petersburg.] - -Since Mr. Swan's pamphlet, the news comes that the Russian Government is -now actively engaged in building a railroad from St. Petersburg across -Siberia to Vladivostock on the Japan Sea; and the expectation is general -that this imperial power will seize Corea so as to bring the terminus of -her railroad to Ninsen at the south point of Corea. All the great trade -which will thus be developed is in addition to the existing trade of -China and the Islands, and will probably swell the China, Japan and -Russian trade to over $200,000,000, to which is to be added the -Australian and Island trade, which already is, no doubt, over -$100,000,000. - -Now comes the practical question, Who are to handle this vast trade of -$300,000,000 annually? - - [Sidenote: The American Pacific States have decisive advantages over - all others in controlling the Pacific trade.] - -No one nation exclusively, of course. The Dutch and other small powers -will have a little of it; but the only contest will be between England -and the American Pacific Coast. England has the lion's share now, but -this great nation will hereafter labor under too many disadvantages in -its contest with America. America has the needful capital, material, -pluck and energy, and enjoys certain decisive advantages, as, for -example--1. In distance, which of itself would in this case decide the -matter; 2. In the local production of certain staple articles which will -be in great demand, and which England cannot supply so cheaply, if at -all, such as lumber, meats, flour, canned goods, cheap cottons, and -agricultural and other machinery, which, if not cheaper, can be more -readily adapted to the wants of the market; 3. In possessing the back -country of Eastern America, whereby the entire United States become -tributary both ways to the Pacific commerce; to which may be added, 4. -The ever-flowing river in the Pacific Ocean, flowing in a circle from -Japan to the American coast and back--the famous Kuro Shiwo, or Japanese -current; a current which gives a gain to every ship of twenty miles a -day in distance; the current which brings the disabled Japanese junks to -the American coast. - - [Sidenote: Advantage in distances.] - -The half-way point on the Pacific side between America and England is -the Malay Peninsula. This leaves even Australia and all of Oceanica -nearer to us than to England, and all of China, Japan and Siberia -thousands of miles nearer to us. Hong Kong and Canton are the English -headquarters in China, and yet our Pacific coast is 5,000 miles nearer -to these than England is. It is also 6,500 miles nearer to Shanghai, -which is a more important port than Canton, because of its greater -nearness to the rice and tea producing sections. The advantages are -still greater in respect to Peking, Japan, Vladivostock, the terminus of -the projected Russian railway, and the entire country drained by the -Amoor. Our commerce is now within thirty days of the coast of China, and -will be in less than ten days when the fast mail and express and -passenger steamers are launched. I insert a table of distances, which is -full of significance. - - -ROUGH ESTIMATES OF DISTANCES. - - MILES - Puget Sound to mouth of Amoor River 3,900 - " " " Vladivostock 4,700 - " " " Shanghai 5,750 - " " " Canton 6,500 - " " " Singapore 8,100 - " " " S. W. point of Australia 9,550 - San Francisco to Vladivostock 5,200 - " " " Shanghai 6,100 - " " " Canton 6,800 - " " " Singapore 8,400 - " " " S. W. point of Australia 9,500 - " " " St. Petersburg via Vladivostock 9,700 - St. Petersburg to Vladivostock 4,500 - San Francisco to Calcutta 10,200 - Liverpool to mouth of Amoor River 13,550 - " " Vladivostock 12,700 - " " Shanghai 11,750 - " " Canton 10,900 - " " S. W. point of Australia 10,750 - " " Singapore 9,300 - " " Calcutta 8,700 - -Liverpool and Puget Sound are about equally distant from west coast of -the Malay Peninsula. - - MILES - New York to Canton, via Puget Sound 9,500 - " " Shanghai " " " 7,800 to 8,000 - -By this it will be seen that New York, by way of Puget Sound, is 1,400 -miles nearer to Canton than Liverpool is, and nearly 4,000 miles nearer -to Shanghai. Mr. Swan makes the distance from the Pacific coast less -than I have given. It should also be noted that Puget Sound has the -advantage of distance over San Francisco also. - - [Sidenote: Advantage in productions.] - -Puget Sound has also the advantage over all competitors of being able -to produce a large bulk of the materials for commerce in its own -vicinity. In this report there will be a large array of facts concerning -the present and future productions of Washington Territory, which will -amply confirm and illustrate the above statement. The only real -competitor of Puget Sound on the American coast is British Columbia, but -British Columbia cannot vie with Washington Territory in the production -of the materials of commerce, and Canada at large furnishes no such -background as the United States. - - [Sidenote: Coastwise trade.] - -It will, of course, not be overlooked, that in the great coastwise trade -which the Pacific States have and must always have with each other, they -will minister to each other's prosperity. And here it will be shown that -Puget Sound will have the advantage in supplying the wants of others. - - [Sidenote: South American trade.] - -In addition to these is the foreign trade along the coast of British -Columbia, Mexico, Central America, and all the Pacific States of South -America. Chili is a prosperous State. She has nearly doubled the volume -of her trade in ten years. From 1874 to 1883 her exports went up from -$32,000,000 to $73,000,000, and her imports from $35,000,000 to -$50,000,000. The United States imports over $4,000,000 of goods from -the Pacific side of South America, and exports about $8,000,000 to these -states. England, however, gets the most of the West South American -trade, so that here again we must enter the lists with Britannia. -Already the contest has begun, and our Pacific States must bear off the -palm sooner or later. - - [Sidenote: Large existing trade.] - -Thus it is evident that a vast field of commercial enterprise is wide -open to the people of Washington Territory as well as to Oregon and -California. And our commercial statistics show what handsome progress -has already been made. Taking both exports and imports, there is already -a business of $80,000,000 done by the seven Pacific ports of entry. San -Francisco is now far ahead of the others, and this city has nothing to -fear from any other port except Puget Sound, which will gain upon her -rapidly and ultimately surpass her. Washington Territory has all that -California has on which to trade, and a great deal besides; and has the -advantage of position. When our commercial statistics were made up, -Puget Sound had no direct railroad communication with her own back -country east, much less a transcontinental line. A very different story -will be told a few years hence. I here insert a table of summaries -which show that the commercial revolution is now in operation. - - -------------------+-------------------------+------------------------- - | TOTAL VALUE OF | TOTAL VALUE OF - | EXPORTS OF DOMESTIC | IMPORTS OF - PORTS | MERCHANDISE | MERCHANDISE - OF THE PACIFIC. | FOR YEAR ENDING | FOR YEAR ENDING - +------------+------------+------------+------------ - | JUNE 30, | JUNE 30, | JUNE 30, | JUNE 30, - | 1885. | 1887. | 1885. | 1887. - -------------------+------------+------------+------------+------------ - Humboldt, Cal. | $ 201,500 | | $ 1,731 | - Oregon | 1,928,829 | | 161,170 | - Puget Sound, W. T. | 1,877,485 | | 238,036 | - San Diego, Cal. | 65,654 | | 71,106 | - San Francisco, Cal.| 37,082,520 |$32,027,995 | 35,040,350 |$40,707,708 - Willamette, Oregon | 4,142,156 | | 277,386 | - Wilmington, Cal. | 252,673 | | 187,348 | - -------------------+------------+------------+------------+------------ - |$45,550,817 | |$35,977,127 | - -------------------+------------+------------+------------+------------ - -In the latest report to which I have access, San Francisco is the only -one of the Pacific ports mentioned separately. - -Much of the exports above reported to the credit of Oregon really came -down the Columbia River from the eastern part of Washington Territory; -and the great bulk of the exports from San Francisco consists of wheat, -flour, and other breadstuffs, an item in which Washington Territory can -surpass all competitors. The following table shows the principal items -of export from the Pacific ports. - -Let it be noted that in respect to the production of the larger items, -to wit, wheat and flour, wood and its manufactures, animals, iron and -steel and their manufactures, machinery of all sorts, fish, etc., -Washington Territory can surpass all competitors. - - -PRINCIPAL EXPORTS OF DOMESTIC MERCHANDISE, YEAR ENDING JUNE 30, 1885. - - -------------------+------------+------------------------------------- - PORTS ON THE | APPROXIMATE| - PACIFIC. | VALUES. | - -------------------+------------+------------------------------------- - Humboldt, Cal. | $ 165,000 | Wood, and Manufactures of. - | | - |{ 1,493,600 | Canned Salmon. - Oregon, Oregon |{ 400,000 | Wheat and Flour. - |{ 32,000 | Wood, and Manufactures of. - | | - |{ 830,000 | Wood, and Manufactures of. - Puget Sound, W. T. |{ 240,000 | Wheat and Flour. - |{ 160,000 | Animals. - | | - |{ 58,000 | Animals. - San Diego, Cal. |{ 4,000 | Wood, and Manufactures of. - |{ 1,800 | Machinery. - | | - |{27,226,000 | Wheat, Flour, and other Breadstuffs. - |{ 1,211,000 | Manufactures of Iron and Steel. - |{ 900,000 | Fish. - |{ 745,000 | Ginseng. - San Francisco, Cal.|{ 700,000 | Cotton Manufactures. - |{ 650,000 | Wood, and Manufactures of. - |{ 430,000 | Fruit. - |{ 375,000 | Gunpowder, etc. - |{ 358,000 | Medicines, etc. - | | - |{ 3,339,153 | Wheat. - Willamette, Oregon |{ 704,000 | Flour and Breadstuffs. - |{ 37,000 | Wood, and Manufactures of. - | | - Wilmington, Cal. |{ 211,928 | Wheat. - |{ 33,600 | Honey. - -------------------+------------+------------------------------------- - -NOTE.--Humboldt, Oregon, San Diego, Willamette, and Wilmington have -almost no exports except those included in this list. Puget Sound and -San Francisco have a great variety of exports. - - -APPENDIX. - -LIST OF EXPORTS OF DOMESTIC MERCHANDISE, YEAR ENDING JUNE 30, 1885. -EXPORTED FROM THE SEVEN CUSTOMS DISTRICTS OF THE PACIFIC. - - Agricultural Implements. - Animals. - Art Works. - Bark, and Extract for Tanning. - Billiard Tables, etc. - Blacking. - Bones, Hoofs, Horns, etc. - Books, Maps, etc. - Brass, and Manufactures of. - Breadstuffs, Wheat, etc. - Bricks. - Broom-corn, Brooms and Brushes. - Candles. - Carriages, and parts of. - Cars, passenger and freight. - Casings for Sausages. - Chemicals, Drugs, Dyes, and Medicines. - Clocks and Watches. - Coal. - Coffee and Cocoa, ground or prepared, and Chocolate. - Copper, and Manufactures of. - Cotton, Manufactures of. - Earthen, Stone, and China Ware. - Eggs. - Fancy Articles. - Fertilizers. - Fish. - Flax, Hemp, Jute, and Manufactures of. - Fruits. - Furs and Fur-skins. - Glass and Glassware. - Glucose, or Grape-Sugar. - Glue. - Grease, and all Soap Stock. - Gunpowder, and other Explosives. - Hair, and Manufactures of. - Hides, and Skins other than Furs. - Hay. - Honey. - Hops. - Ice. - India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Manufactures of. - Ink. - Instruments and Apparatus for Scientific purposes. - Iron and Steel, and Manufactures of. - Jewelry, and Manufactures of Gold and Silver. - Lamps, etc. - Lead, and Manufactures of. - Leather, and Manufactures of. - Lime and Cement. - Malt Liquors. - Marble and Stone, and Manufactures of. - Matches. - Musical Instruments. - Naval Stores. - Oakum. - Oil-cake and Oil-cake Meal. - Oils. - Ore, Gold and Silver bearing. - Paraffine and Paraffine Wax. - Paints and Painters' Colors. - Paper, and Manufactures of. - Plated Ware. - Provisions (comprising Meat and Dairy Products). - Quicksilver. - Rags. - Rice. - Salt. - Seeds--Timothy, etc. - Silk, and Manufactures of. - Soap. - Spermaceti and Spermaceti Wax. - Spices, ground and prepared. - Spirits, Whisky, etc. - Spirits of Turpentine. - Starch. - Stationery, except Paper. - Stereotype and Electrotype Plates. - Straw and Palm-leaf, and Manufactures of. - Sugar and Molasses. - Tin, Manufactures of. - Tobacco, and Manufactures of. - Trunks, Valises, etc. - Umbrellas, etc. - Varnish. - Vegetables. - Vessels sold to foreigners. - Vinegar. - Wax (Bees'). - Wine. - Wood, and Manufactures of. - Zinc (pigs, bars, plates, and sheets). - - -LIST OF IMPORTS OF MERCHANDISE, YEAR ENDING JUNE 30, 1885. IMPORTED INTO -THE SEVEN CUSTOMS DISTRICTS OF THE PACIFIC. - - Animals. - Articles, the growth, produce or manufacture of the United States, - returned. - Art Works. - Art Works, the production of American artists. - Books, etc. - Brass, and Manufactures of. - Brushes. - Buttons, some kinds of. - Cement. - Chemicals, Drugs and Dyes. - Clays, etc. - Clocks, and parts of. - Coal, bituminous. - Cocoa, Coffee. - Confectionery. - Copper, and Manufactures of. - Corsets. - Cotton, Manufactures of. - Cotton, unmanufactured. - Dairy Products. - Diamonds, uncut. - Earthen, Stone, and China Ware. - Eggs. - Fancy Articles. - Farinaceous Substances, and preparations of. - Fish, a few. - Flax, Hemp, Jute, etc., and Manufactures of. - Fruits and Nuts, some. - Furs and Fur-skins, undressed. - Furs, dressed, and Manufactures of. - Glass and Glassware. - Household and Personal Effects, Clothing, Tools, etc., of persons - arriving from foreign countries. - Hair, Hats and Bonnets, etc. - India-rubber and Gutta-percha. - Iron, Steel, and Manufactures of. - Jewelry, Manufactures of Gold, Silver, and Precious Stones. - Lead, and Manufactures of. - Leather, and Manufactures of. - Malt Liquors. - Marble and Stone, Manufactures of. - Meats, prepared, of all kinds, and Extracts, etc. - Metals, some. - Musical Instruments, and parts of. - Oil, animal and vegetable. - Opium, and other Medicines. - Paints and Colors. - Paper, and Manufactures of. - Paper Stock, crude. - Plaster-of-Paris, unground. - Rice. - Salt. - Seeds. - Silk, Manufactures of. - Silk, unmanufactured. - Soap. - Some Breadstuffs. - Spices, ground. - Spices, unground. - Spirits, Distilled and Spirituous. - Sponges. - Sugar and Molasses. - Tea. - Tin (bars, blocks, etc.). - Tobacco, and Manufactures of. - Vegetables, some, in natural state, in brine, preserved, etc. - Wines. - Wood, and Manufactures of. - Wood, unmanufactured. - Wools, Hair of the Alpaca goat, etc., and Manufactures of. - Zinc, Spelter or Tutenegue, and Manufactures of. - - -APPROXIMATE POPULATION IN THE YEAR 1887 OF - - The World 1,500,000,000 - Japan, Siberia, Chinese Empire, Anam, Siam, - Oceanica, India 792,500,000 - Mexico, Central America 11,800,000 - U. S. of Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, - Chili, Patagonia 11,700,000 - Canada 4,500,000 - ----------- - TOTAL 820,000,000 - - -TOPOGRAPHY OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY. - -Washington Territory will make one of the largest States of the Union. -It is larger than England and Wales combined, as will be seen by the -following table: - - Washington Territory 66,880 square miles. - New York 47,620 " " - Virginia 40,125 " " - England and Wales 58,320 " " - -The shape of the Territory is regular, having the general form of a -parallelogram, with its longer axis running east and west. Its relief is -simple. Along the Pacific coast runs the Coast Range of mountains from -the mouth of the Columbia River to the Straits of Juan de Fuca. In this -range there is only one practicable opening from the interior, which is -the trough of the Chehalis River, which terminates in Gray's Harbor. The -bar here, as at the mouth of Columbia River, forms a serious obstruction -to the entrance of vessels drawing more than twenty feet of water. - -Sixty miles east of the Coast Range, and parallel to it, runs the -Cascade Range, which divides the Territory by a north and south line. It -is a lofty range, presenting a serrated outline, whose lower depressions -are 3,000 to 4,000 feet above tide, while summits of 5,000 to 8,000 -feet are common; and at intervals still higher peaks raise their -snow-covered heads from 8,000 to 14,500 feet. - -Between the Cascade Mountains and the Coast Range lies Puget Sound, with -its outlet through the Strait of Fuca. South of this sound, and on each -side, are wide spaces of flat and rolling country, with numerous and -somewhat disconnected mountains of comparatively small size, though some -of them rise as high as 1,500 feet. These mountains show many natural -terraces, which may be the result of land-slides. - - [Sidenote: Puget Sound.] - - [Illustration: LAKE WASHINGTON--SHOWING MOUNT RANIER IN THE DISTANCE--ON - LINE OF SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN RAILWAY.] - - [Sidenote: Lake Washington.] - -The Puget Sound basin is exceedingly well supplied with streams and -lakes; whilst the Sound itself, with its sheltered position, its deep -water, and indented shore-line, is one of the most interesting and -valuable inland bodies of water in the world. It has a broad outlet to -the ocean. Lake Washington is a beautiful and navigable sheet of water. -There are numerous other lakes scattered over the Territory, enlivening -its scenery and often affording convenient waterways. Quite a number of -the rivers emptying into Puget Sound are partially navigable for small -steamers. The rivers and creeks generally have bottom-lands, which are -sometimes narrow, and sometimes wide. Cowlitz River flows south into -the Columbia River. It has fine bottom-lands, and its valley may be -regarded as a prolongation and complement of the Willamette Valley, -Oregon. - - [Sidenote: West Washington and East Washington.] - -All the country lying west of the crest-line of the Cascade Mountains is -known as West Washington, and is quite different in topography, as in -many other respects, from the country known as East Washington, which -name applies to all of the Territory lying east of the Cascade axis. - -East Washington is a rectangular plateau, set in a frame of mountains, -and drained by the Columbia River and its tributaries. The Cascade Range -being the west side of the frame, the north side is formed by irregular -spurs which run out at right angles from the Cascade Mountains along the -Canada border, and connect with the Cabinet Mountains. The east side of -the frame is in Idaho, and consists chiefly of the Coeur d'Alene -Mountains. On the south lie the Blue Mountains, which are partly in -Washington Territory, but chiefly in Oregon. The mountains on the north -have a few peaks 5,000 to 9,000 feet high, and many of the dividing -ridges are high, steep and rugged. Much of the region is described, -however, as high plateau country, dotted over with small, conical -mountains. It abounds in streams of water, generally small. A strip of -arable land runs on the east side of the Columbia River from the mouth -of the Spokane River to the mouth of the Colville River and the valleys -of Colville and the Little Spokane River are highly spoken of as -agricultural regions. The elevation of these river valleys is from 1,200 -to 1,600 feet above tide-water. - - [Sidenote: Coeur d'Alene Mountains.] - -Passing to the east side, we find the plateau country at its north -corner extending to the Idaho line where the foot-hills of the Rocky -Mountains begin, and soon rise into the Coeur d'Alene Mountains, -which--being the local name for part of the Bitter Root Range--is a part -of the western branch of the Rocky Mountains. The Coeur d'Alene River -and Lake belong to the Columbia River basin, and are so naturally -connected in mining and trading interests with Washington Territory, -that in another connection I shall have much to say of the Coeur -d'Alene country, as also of the Colville country, and other parts of the -mountain rim. South of the Coeur d'Alene Lake the plateau country -extends far into Idaho, and gives to that State its best farming lands. - -The Blue Mountains which mark the southern limit of the plateau in -Washington Territory do not extend more than half-way across the plain, -leaving a long projection of the plateau to extend southward into -Oregon. - - [Sidenote: The Great Plateau.] - - [Sidenote: Coulees.] - -The shape of the plateau in Washington Territory is an irregular square -with a diameter each way of about 150 miles. Followed into Idaho and -Oregon, the diameters would reach 200 miles. Its surface is generally -smooth, but there are frequent patches of rock, and sometimes large -areas are roughened by rocky outcrops. The plateau is elevated and -rolling, rising from 1,000 to 3,000 feet above the surface of Columbia -River. Its elevations usually are mere swells, except along the -precipitous edges of coulees. I know of only one mountain upon it, and -that is quite a small one; but it served as a refuge for Lieutenant -Steptoe and his handful of soldiers when attacked by the Indians; and -hence is called Steptoe Butte. The surface of the plain is scarred in a -number of places with coulees, or dry river-beds, which are cut down -twenty to one hundred feet, and sometimes more, and their sides are -usually marked by bluffs, often of rock. These coulees are an advantage, -or a disadvantage, in road-making, according to whether the road goes -with, or across, the coulee. The Northern Pacific Railroad found it -convenient to use one of them for a long distance. The deepest cuts in -the plateau are made by its rivers. Of these the Columbia is chief. This -river, as already intimated, has cut a channel for itself along the -north and west edge of the plain from 1,000 to 2,000 feet below the -general level. The Snake River, which is the largest affluent of the -Columbia, has numerous branches, all cut deep into the basalt which -underlies the plain. - - [Sidenote: Columbia and Snake Rivers.] - -The Columbia and Snake are both steamboat rivers, but navigation is -interrupted by rocky rapids, which prevent through lines of steamers. -The Columbia is one of the largest rivers in the world, and has abundant -water for steamboats from its mouth to a point in Canada, north of -Farwell, where it is crossed by the Canadian Pacific Railway, and -steamboats run at intervals to the most northerly point; and there are -navigable stretches not yet used for boats which will have steamers in -connection with future railroads. The steamers on Snake River are very -useful, and run to Lewiston, in Idaho, and perhaps further. - -This plateau, or Great Plain of the Columbia, as it is called sometimes, -is a most interesting and important region, concerning which I shall -have much to say under subsequent heads. - - -ALTITUDES IN WASHINGTON TERRITORY. - - FEET. - Mount Ranier (Tacoma) 14,444 - Mount Baker 10,827 - Mount Adams 9,570 - Mount St. Helens 9,750 - Natchess Pass 4,900 - Stampede Pass, Summit 3,980 - Tunnel, Stampede Pass 2,885 - Snoqualmie Pass 3,110 - Kechelus Lake 2,388 - Kachess Lake 2,158 - Ellensburg 1,518 - Yakima City 990 - Ainsworth 351 - Palouse Junction 858 - Sprague 1,200 - Spokane Falls 1,910 - Colville 1,917 - Fort Spokane 1,300 - Okinagane Lake 1,163 - Great Plain of Columbia River 1,000 to 3,000 - Snake River, N. P. R. R. 358 - Colfax 1,941 - Dayton 1,360 - Walla Walla 1,000 - Wallula Junction 326 - - -CLIMATE. - - [Sidenote: The Climate of Washington Territory.] - -Climate is a matter of temperature, moisture and atmospheric dynamics. -The general law of temperature is that the farther north the colder the -weather; and yet currents of water and prevailing winds may give to the -country a climate geographically belonging to quite a different -latitude. We know how this is with England, which, judged by latitude, -ought to be colder than Maine, but which, in fact, has one of the -mildest and most equable climates in the world. England is farther north -than Washington Territory, which latter is in the latitude of France; -but it is also in the latitude of Montana, Dakota and Maine, States -remarkable for sudden changes and for terrible cold. But it is well -known that our Pacific States, at least on their western borders, have a -temperature free from extremes in both summer and winter. Taking July -and January as the hottest and coldest months, it will be found that the -average temperature at San Francisco and Puget Sound is from 7 deg. to 14 deg. -cooler than it is in the Rocky Mountains and in New England during the -same months. And on the other hand, taking January as the coldest month, -we find that Bismarck, Denver, New England, etc., are 30 deg. to 40 deg. colder -than the points on the Pacific. In other words, that the range of the -thermometer between extremes averages near 50 deg. more in the East than it -does in the West in the localities named; a very great difference when -we consider comfort, health, cost of living, and opportunity to labor -in the open air. - - [Sidenote: Mild and equable.] - -This greater mildness and equability of temperature on the Pacific Coast -is to be ascribed to the winds and currents of the great ocean. During -the summer the winds come from the northwest, and during the winter from -the southwest and south. Much influence in tempering the cold of winter -is ascribed also to the Japan Current, mentioned under a former head. It -does for the Pacific Coast what the Gulf Stream does for England. - -The same causes regulate also the rainfall on the Pacific Coast. In one -respect there is the same peculiarity along the whole coast, namely, dry -summers and, comparatively, wet winters. There is, however, a gradual -increase in the amount of rainfall northward from San Diego to Sitka; so -that when we reach Washington Territory we do not find the excessive -dryness which characterizes the summer climate of California. - - [Sidenote: Rainfall.] - -The figures of different authorities do not agree exactly as to the -precipitation on the Pacific Coast: for example, in the older volume on -Rain Tables, published by the Smithsonian Institution, the annual -rainfall and melted snow on Puget Sound, measured at Steilacoom, near -Olympia, from 1849 to 1867, amounted to 43.98 inches. Governor Semple, -however, gives from Sergeant McGovern, in charge of the station, a total -of 53.89 inches annually, measured at Olympia from 1878 to 1886. But I -find in the report of the chief signal officer to the War Department for -1884, that the average from July 1, 1877, to December, 1883, for -Olympia, was 62.81 inches. This difference of nine inches is partly -accounted for by the fact that the precipitation in the subsequent years -not included in the report of the Signal Service Bureau, namely, 1884, -1885 and 1886, averaged only 41.88 inches, which would, in great -measure, relieve the discrepancy. It will probably turn out on further -observation that 53 inches is about the total annual rainfall for Puget -Sound. But according to the report of the chief signal officer for 1884, -we have the following annual totals: San Diego, 9.40; San Francisco, -23.32; Portland, Oregon, 54.16; Puget Sound, 62.81; Sitka, Alaska, 97.28 -inches. - -Comparing these with points farther east, we have Bismarck, Dakota, -21.35; Denver, 14.97; Sandusky, Ohio, 41.43; New Haven, Connecticut, -51.55; Norfolk, Virginia, 52.14 inches. - -The value of rainfall depends more on its distribution among the months -than on its annual aggregate. England has but 25 inches rain per annum, -but it comes at such times as makes it most effective. The rains on the -Pacific Coast are not distributed in the most favorable way for -agriculture--the summers being too dry. At San Diego there is less than -one-third of an inch in the three summer months, and still less at San -Francisco. On Puget Sound, for that time, the fall is 2.57. In -Washington Territory the spring rains are as abundant as in the Atlantic -States, and the summer breezes seem laden with moisture. - - [Sidenote: No blizzards or cyclones.] - - [Sidenote: Differences between East and West Washington.] - -In respect to cold waves, winds and storms, Washington Territory is -singularly favored. There is nothing to correspond with the blizzards, -northers, hurricanes and cyclones which trouble some other States. Even -ordinary thunder-storms are rare. The climate of East Washington is -different from that of West Washington, and yet, when compared with that -of Montana and Dakota, it will be seen that it is really transitional -and intermediate between the climates on each side. The range of -thermometer from the heat of July to the cold of January is, at -Bismarck, 65 deg.; at Spokane Falls, 45 deg., and on Puget Sound, 22 deg.. And, in -like manner, the amount of rain is intermediate between the heavy -rainfall of the Sound and the lighter rains of the Rocky Mountain -country. The explanation of this is, that while the Cascade Range, like -all high mountains, condenses the moisture of the air on the windward -side and changes its temperature, yet this range is not sufficiently -high and cold to have the effect of the Himalayas or the Andes in -depriving the leeward lands of rain. - -The mountain rim of the plateau country has not the moisture which -distinguishes the west side of the Cascade, and it varies in its amount -at different places. - -Some statements have already been made in reference to the dryness and -summer heat of the Yakima Valley on the east flank of the main mountain. -The mountains running along the Canada line have probably a better -summer climate than the east side of the main mountain. I do not know -how it is with the Coeur d'Alene and Blue Mountains, but the climate -of the plateau has no unusual character in the matter of temperature. -Half of the States of the Union have as great or greater extremes; but -the plateau has less than half the precipitation of Puget Sound, as -shown in the tables given on pages 56 and 57. And the rainfall in the -summer is so scant that one would not, _a priori_, expect any form of -vegetation to progress at all. These meteorological phenomena render -almost unaccountable the facts of agriculture, which will be given -hereafter. - - [Sidenote: Chinook wind.] - -The Chinook wind, which springs up in winter and melts the snow on the -plateau, and to some extent in the mountains, is simply a southerly -wind, such as is common in the Mississippi Valley and even on the -Atlantic seaboard. In the Pacific States it does not, from the -descriptions, appear to differ from the breezes of the coast, except in -its greater strength and steadiness. I heard an intelligent gentleman, -residing in Spokane Falls, say that he thought the Chinook was a -disadvantage in winter, as it caused a disagreeable thaw, and so relaxed -the human system as to render it more sensitive to cold; but generally -the Chinook is enjoyed in East Washington. - - -SOILS. - - [Sidenote: Soils all fertile.] - -The arable soils of Washington Territory, so far as I could see, or -otherwise learn, may be classified as follows, to wit: _a._ Humus; _b._ -Alluvium; _c._ Drift; _d._ Loam; _e._ Basalt. - -_a._ HUMUS. In West Washington the whole country is top-dressed with -vegetable mould, derived obviously from the heavy growth which has -covered the surface for ages. Of course there are bare spots, and where -the growth has been light, the top-dressing is thin; but the mountain -sides, the hills, and notably the low grounds, are overlaid from one to -ten inches, and often much more, with this vegetable mould. - - -TABLE SHOWING THE MEANS OF THE DAILY MAXIMUM AND MINIMUM TEMPERATURES IN -DEGREES FAHRENHEIT. - -The Means are obtained by dividing the sum of the daily readings of the -Maximum and Minimum Self-registering Thermometers by the number of days -in the month. - - ====================+=========================================+ - | 1883 | - +-------------+-------------+-------------+ - | July. | Aug. | Sept. | - STATIONS. +-------------+-------------+-------------+ - | Mean. | Mean. | Mean. | - +------+------+------+------+------+------+ - | Max. | Min. | Max. | Min. | Max. | Min. | - --------------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+ - Bismarck, Dak. | 79.5 | 55.8 | 78.6 | 54.8 | 69.4 | 43.7 | - Dayton, W. T. | 87.3 | 53.6 | 85.1 | 53.2 | 77.5 | 45.2 | - Denver, Col. | 82.6 | 58.7 | 83.6 | 58.8 | 74.7 | 50.2 | - Lewiston, Idaho | 90.0 | 59.1 | 87.1 | 57.6 | 76.0 | 47.7 | - New Haven, Conn. | 80.3 | 62.4 | 77.6 | 57.9 | 70.4 | 50.6 | - Norfolk, Virginia. | 87.9 | 71.1 | 82.4 | 68.9 | 76.4 | 63.8 | - Olympia, W. T. | 76.1 | 48.2 | 71.3 | 55.1 | 67.0 | 48.1 | - Portland, Oregon. | 80.0 | 57.0 | 73.8 | 54.2 | 72.3 | 52.6 | - San Diego, Cal. | 75.5 | 64.0 | 75.9 | 63.5 | 78.2 | 62.9 | - Sandusky, Ohio | -- | -- | 77.1 | 62.8 | 69.2 | 55.8 | - San Francisco, Cal. | 64.5 | 55.0 | 64.4 | 53.9 | 69.9 | 56.3 | - Sitka, Alaska | 57.9 | 48.1 | 59.3 | 48.8 | 58.9 | 48.5 | - Spokane Falls, W. T.| 85.0 | 53.4 | 83.2 | 72.5 | 72.4 | 44.2 | - Washington City. | 87.7 | 67.2 | 82.4 | 62.7 | 74.8 | 56.2 | - ====================+======+======+======+======+======+======+ - - ====================+=========================================+ - | 1883 | - +-------------+-------------+-------------+ - | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | - STATIONS. +-------------+-------------+-------------+ - | Mean. | Mean. | Mean. | - +------+------+------+------+------+------+ - | Max. | Min. | Max. | Min. | Max. | Min. | - --------------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+ - Bismarck, Dak. | 48.3 | 33.4 | 38.7 | 15.0 | 25.0 | 4.5 | - Dayton, W. T. | 57.8 | 34.7 | 51.6 | 33.3 | 35.8 | 18.5 | - Denver, Col. | 57.6 | 36.8 | 56.1 | 31.1 | 36.8 | 17.4 | - Lewiston, Idaho | 57.9 | 39.5 | 57.6 | 35.5 | 41.7 | 29.3 | - New Haven, Conn. | 58.4 | 40.4 | 50.5 | 34.1 | 38.3 | 21.5 | - Norfolk, Virginia. | 68.4 | 56.7 | 62.2 | 45.0 | 53.9 | 38.8 | - Olympia, W. T. | 57.3 | 42.9 | 50.2 | 44.9 | 45.9 | 35.4 | - Portland, Oregon. | 58.4 | 45.8 | 52.8 | 72.0 | 49.0 | 36.8 | - San Diego, Cal. | 69.0 | 54.7 | 67.7 | 50.2 | 65.7 | 49.0 | - Sandusky, Ohio | 59.2 | 47.3 | 52.5 | 37.2 | 39.8 | 27.5 | - San Francisco, Cal. | 62.9 | 52.9 | 58.8 | 49.4 | 55.5 | 46.2 | - Sitka, Alaska | 50.6 | 41.0 | 38.6 | 27.3 | 41.6 | 30.5 | - Spokane Falls, W. T.| 53.7 | 35.0 | 46.6 | 32.0 | 35.6 | 22.4 | - Washington City. | 65.5 | 49.3 | 56.2 | 39.4 | 63.1 | 45.3 | - ====================+======+======+======+======+======+======+ - - ====================+=========================================+ - | 1884 | - +-------------+-------------+-------------+ - | Jan. | Feb. | March. | - STATIONS. +-------------+-------------+-------------+ - | Mean. | Mean. | Mean. | - +------+------+------+------+------+------+ - | Max. | Min. | Max. | Min. | Max. | Min. | - --------------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+ - Bismarck, Dak. | 14.5 | 7.6 | 8.9 | 9.8 | 29.9 | 10.5 | - Dayton, W. T. | 31.0 | 11.5 | 24.9 | 4.8 | 35.6 | 19.6 | - Denver, Col. | 25.7 | 5.3 | 30.8 | 10.8 | 43.0 | 25.7 | - Lewiston, Idaho | 39.1 | 25.9 | 35.1 | 18.8 | 53.6 | 34.7 | - New Haven, Conn. | 32.6 | 15.8 | 40.8 | 24.3 | 42.4 | 26.6 | - Norfolk, Virginia. | 46.7 | 29.9 | 59.0 | 41.0 | 58.1 | 42.1 | - Olympia, W. T. | 44.7 | 35.2 | 42.1 | 27.5 | 52.5 | 34.4 | - Portland, Oregon. | 46.2 | 33.3 | 44.4 | 29.4 | 55.6 | 37.8 | - San Diego, Cal. | 64.5 | 45.6 | 62.9 | 48.6 | 62.9 | 50.4 | - Sandusky, Ohio | 26.9 | 12.9 | 39.0 | 24.4 | 41.6 | 28.7 | - San Francisco, Cal. | 54.7 | 46.6 | 55.9 | 45.6 | 59.2 | 49.8 | - Sitka, Alaska | 43.8 | 34.2 | 37.8 | 25.8 | 42.5 | 33.3 | - Spokane Falls, W. T.| 32.6 | 17.5 | 30.2 | 12.7 | 46.4 | 27.8 | - Washington City. | 49.7 | 31.8 | 65.6 | 47.0 | 67.8 | 51.6 | - ====================+======+======+======+======+======+======+ - - ====================+=========================================+ - | 1884 | - +-------------+-------------+-------------+ - | April. | May. | June. | - STATIONS. +-------------+-------------+-------------+ - | Mean. | Mean. | Mean. | - +------+------+------+------+------+------+ - | Max. | Min. | Max. | Min. | Max. | Min. | - --------------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+ - Bismarck, Dak. | 47.6 | 30.2 | 67.1 | 44.1 | 81.2 | 54.8 | - Dayton, W. T. | 43.9 | 29.6 | 59.5 | 40.7 | 73.7 | 51.8 | - Denver, Col. | 58.2 | 39.6 | 71.5 | 50.2 | 81.2 | 61.3 | - Lewiston, Idaho | 66.6 | 42.1 | 79.3 | 48.9 | 80.8 | 57.3 | - New Haven, Conn. | 54.1 | 37.2 | 65.8 | 47.2 | 78.2 | 55.4 | - Norfolk, Virginia. | 61.9 | 47.0 | 76.9 | 58.8 | 81.8 | 64.6 | - Olympia, W. T. | 61.7 | 41.6 | 70.1 | 43.9 | 71.5 | 48.9 | - Portland, Oregon. | 65.1 | 45.3 | 73.6 | 48.7 | 74.9 | 53.7 | - San Diego, Cal. | 64.4 | 51.1 | 67.5 | 56.1 | 72.1 | 58.4 | - Sandusky, Ohio | 52.1 | 39.3 | 68.8 | 51.3 | 77.9 | 62.7 | - San Francisco, Cal. | 61.2 | 50.7 | 65.3 | 53.4 | 65.2 | 55.3 | - Sitka, Alaska | 51.7 | 37.7 | 51.9 | 40.8 | 57.9 | 46.4 | - Spokane Falls, W. T.| 62.2 | 39.0 | 74.5 | 46.0 | 78.7 | 53.9 | - Washington City. | 73.6 | 54.8 | 81.4 | 63.0 | 87.4 | 68.5 | - ====================+======+======+======+======+======+======+ - - -TABLE SHOWING THE AVERAGE PRECIPITATION AT STATIONS OF THE SIGNAL -SERVICE, - -COMPUTED FROM THE COMMENCEMENT OF OBSERVATIONS AT EACH, TO AND INCLUDING -DECEMBER, 1883. - -TAKEN FROM THE REPORT OF THE CHIEF SIGNAL OFFICER TO THE WAR DEPARTMENT -FOR 1884. - - ==========================+================+======+======+======+ - STATIONS. | ESTABLISHED. | Jan. | Feb. |March.| - | | | | | - --------------------------+----------------+------+------+------+ - Bismarck, Dak. | Sept. 15, 1874 | 0.57 | 0.66 | 1.21 | - Dayton, Wash. Terr. | July 1, 1879 | 4.11 | 3.64 | 2.04 | - Denver, Colorado | Nov. 19, 1871 | 0.69 | 0.43 | 0.86 | - Lewiston, Idaho | July 1, 1879 | 2.45 | 1.53 | 1.16 | - New Haven, Conn. | Dec. 10, 1872 | 4.20 | 4.22 | 5.29 | - Norfolk, Virginia | Jan. 1, 1871 | 3.89 | 3.85 | 4.35 | - Olympia, Wash. Terr. | July 1, 1877 | 9.36 |10.67 | 6.20 | - Portland, Oregon | Nov. 1, 1871 | 7.34 | 8.11 | 7.27 | - San Diego, Cal. | Nov. 1, 1871 | 1.85 | 2.07 | 0.97 | - Sandusky, Ohio | Aug. 2, 1877 | 2.19 | 3.13 | 2.90 | - San Francisco, Cal. | March 8, 1871 | 5.10 | 3.95 | 2.88 | - Sitka, Alaska | March 30, 1881 | 9.44 |11.64 | 9.76 | - Spokane Falls, Wash. Terr.| Feb. 5, 1881 | 3.34 | 3.02 | 0.85 | - Washington City | Nov. 1, 1870 | 3.16 | 2.85 | 4.04 | - ==========================+================+======+======+======+ - - ==========================+======+======+======+======+======+ - STATIONS. |April.| May. | June.| July.| Aug. | - | | | | | | - --------------------------+----------------+------+------+---+ - Bismarck, Dak. | 2.94 | 3.31 | 3.64 | 2.21 | 2.71 | - Dayton, Wash. Terr. | 3.26 | 2.02 | 0.86 | 0.79 | 0.49 | - Denver, Colorado | 1.71 | 3.05 | 1.60 | 1.89 | 1.54 | - Lewiston, Idaho | 1.28 | 1.12 | 0.94 | 0.76 | 0.36 | - New Haven, Conn. | 4.32 | 3.71 | 3.80 | 4.86 | 5.62 | - Norfolk, Virginia | 4.29 | 3.54 | 4.15 | 5.39 | 6.11 | - Olympia, Wash. Terr. | 4.34 | 2.76 | 0.88 | 0.86 | 0.83 | - Portland, Oregon | 3.48 | 2.44 | 1.82 | 0.71 | 0.81 | - San Diego, Cal. | 0.68 | 0.26 | 0.05 | 0.02 | 0.23 | - Sandusky, Ohio | 2.79 | 3.34 | 5.06 | 4.06 | 4.27 | - San Francisco, Cal. | 1.80 | 0.71 | 0.16 | 0.01 | 0.01 | - Sitka, Alaska | 4.40 | 3.23 | 3.13 | 5.82 | 5.82 | - Spokane Falls, Wash. Terr.| 1.99 | 1.38 | 1.00 | 1.04 | 0.25 | - Washington City | 3.07 | 2.98 | 4.23 | 4.08 | 4.97 | - ==========================+======+======+======+======+======+ - - ==========================+======+======+======+======+=======+ - STATIONS. | Sept.| Oct. | Nov. | Dec. |TOTAL | - | | | | |INCHES.| - --------------------------+------+------+------+------+-------+ - Bismarck, Dak. | 1.34 | 1.33 | 0.71 | 0.72 | 21.35 | - Dayton, Wash. Terr. | 0.67 | 2.64 | 2.55 | 4.95 | 28.02 | - Denver, Colorado | 0.96 | 0.79 | 0.74 | 0.71 | 14.97 | - Lewiston, Idaho | 0.52 | 1.93 | 1.66 | 3.40 | 17.11 | - New Haven, Conn. | 4.15 | 3.85 | 4.15 | 3.38 | 51.55 | - Norfolk, Virginia | 5.23 | 3.96 | 3.58 | 3.80 | 52.14 | - Olympia, Wash. Terr. | 2.98 | 5.60 | 8.16 |10.17 | 62.81 | - Portland, Oregon | 1.62 | 4.95 | 7.34 | 8.27 | 54.16 | - San Diego, Cal. | 0.05 | 0.40 | 0.70 | 2.12 | 9.40 | - Sandusky, Ohio | 3.54 | 3.50 | 3.68 | 2.97 | 41.43 | - San Francisco, Cal. | 0.15 | 1.13 | 2.70 | 4.72 | 23.32 | - Sitka, Alaska | 9.97 | 9.33 |11.87 |12.87 | 97.28 | - Spokane Falls, Wash. Terr.| 1.14 | 2.90 | 2.22 | 2.06 | 21.19 | - Washington City | 4.42 | 3.00 | 2.84 | 2.92 | 42.56 | - ==========================+======+======+======+======+=======+ - -_b._ ALLUVIUM. This includes the transported matter of the bottom-lands, -the swales, and the tidal flats. Here we have humus, not only as a -top-dressing, but also intermixed, and sometimes constituting a large -proportion of the soil for a considerable depth. No land could be richer -than this, and its relative proportion to the whole is larger than would -be inferred even from the great number of streams, for it includes the -lowlands about Puget Sound and the lakes. The mountain streams have, -with some exceptions, but little alluvial land. There are areas of -swale, or wet bottom-lands, which may be drained to advantage. The tidal -flats along the Sound are peculiarly fertile, because enriched by both -vegetable and animal matter, including calcareous shells and fish bones. -Owing to this great fertility, and the ease with which large areas are -reclaimed by dykes, their convenience to transportation, and, it may be -added, the labor of clearing the forest lands, the work of dyking these -flats has been commenced, especially in Snohomish and Skagit counties, -and it is thought that two hundred thousand acres may thus be redeemed -from the water. Alluvial lands constitute but a small feature in East -Washington. - -_c._ DRIFT. The origin of these gravel soils is given hereafter, under -the head of Geology. They constitute the hill lands, as distinguished -from the bottom lands and Sound flats on the one hand, and the mountain -lands on the other. They are composed of sand, clay, gravel, and some -large boulders. Rarely the gravel predominates so as to render the land -unfit for cultivation. Sometimes there are only clay and sand, and -sometimes chiefly clay. This soil, though not equal to the alluvium, or -to the basaltic land, is much better than glacial precipitate usually -is. It gave all the indications of a fertile soil, resembling the best -hay lands of Massachusetts, which have the same glacial origin. Its -natural growth is luxuriant, and when cleared it inclines to clothe -itself in white clover and the grasses. It is said to be specially -adapted to fruits and vegetables. - -_d._ LOAM. I mean by this a clay soil containing fine-grained sand -enough to make it friable. This is the soil made by the slates and -sandstones of the coal measures, and is generally found on the -highlands above the drift. It is a medium land as to quality, but -valuable for the tendency to grass, which characterizes all the lands of -West Washington. Much of it will make good cropping land. There is a -great deal of it. It is found high on the cretaceous hills and -mountains, often extending to the top. - - [Sidenote: A remarkable soil.] - -_e._ BASALT. This is the magic soil of the Great Plain (or plateau) of -the Columbia. And it is found also in large areas on the Cascade -Mountains. It has an ashy look and texture; sometimes black, but -generally of ashen hue. Rarely it is compact and clayey. There are -perhaps twenty thousand square miles of this basaltic land; enough of -itself to make a medium-sized State. Of course there are inequalities in -the productiveness of this land. The basaltic rock in many places crops -out, as mentioned under the head of Topography, and there are coulees -and galled spots. I cannot say what proportion of the surface is -rendered valueless by these irregularities. The outcropping basalt does -not destroy the value of the land; for the soil spaces between the rocks -may be greater than the rock spaces, and whilst unfit for the plough, -they may be suited to trees, or cattle range. But, judging by all that I -saw and heard, I should think that the smooth land considerably -predominates over the rough. Certainly there is more smooth, -comparatively level, fertile, productive, and easily cultivated land -here in proportion to the whole area than I have ever seen elsewhere. -The great plain of East Colorado is a vast and beautiful stretch of -country, but it is unproductive without irrigation. Taking everything -into consideration, the plateau of East Washington seems to me to be -unequaled in combined extent and productiveness. - -This subject of soils will be incidentally continued in connection with -the next two heads. - - -NATURAL VEGETATION. - - [Sidenote: Vast vegetation.] - -Here the two sides of the Cascade Mountains must again, as under other -heads, be considered separately. The natural vegetation of the west side -is vast rather than varied. Wherever the sun touches the ground, one may -expect to see grass; chiefly white clover and green sward, which seem to -be indigenous to the country. There are, of course, many herbs and -shrubs which need not be mentioned in a report like this. The ferns of -the Snoqualmie bottoms, for size, remind one of the tree ferns of the -carboniferous period, though, of course, not so large. Many of them -were seven feet high, which is five feet higher than I ever saw -elsewhere. The Sal-al is a low shrub, almost herbaceous, and -semi-procumbent, of brown foliage, bearing a berry and belonging to the -wintergreen family, though much larger than the wintergreen of the -Alleghenies. The Sal-al abounds on the little prairie which bears its -name. The mosses are most abundant and luxuriant in the deep, moist -shades of the evergreen forests, and I noticed that the Cayuse ponies -fed upon them as eagerly as reindeer upon the Iceland mosses. - - [Sidenote: Deciduous trees.] - -Deciduous trees are rare, but not wholly wanting. The cottonwood grows -to rather extra size. The alder, which is only a large bush in the -Alleghenies, here becomes a tree, perhaps thirty feet high. I saw some -small maples. It is said that there are groves of oak and maple of -sufficient size to cut for lumber. - - [Illustration: A VIEW OF THE FOREST ON THE LINE OF THE SEATTLE, LAKE - SHORE AND EASTERN RAILWAY.] - - [Sidenote: Larch.] - -The Larch (tamarack) is interspersed among the evergreens on the Cascade -Mountains, and attains good size. The American larch is rather more -slender in habit than the European variety, but it has a heavy, -close-grained wood, and is regarded as specially suited for railroad -ties--an important point in this country. It is also reported to make -durable fence-posts and ground sills. In Europe its bark is valued for -tanning next to oak bark, and the two are used together. The Venice -turpentine comes from the resinous sap of the larch. The older trees are -better than the younger ones for durability. But with regard to this -class of trees, results depend much on incidental circumstances. Larch -is one of the woods used in Europe for making gas. These are the only -deciduous trees I know of in Washington Territory, except fruit trees. - - [Sidenote: Extraordinary evergreen forests.] - -Evergreens constitute the bulk of the great forests, and I shall name -these in the order of their importance: Douglas (or red) fir, white -cedar, hemlock spruce, white pine, balsam (or white) fir and yew. - - [Sidenote: Douglas fir, or Oregon pine.] - - [Sidenote: The best of ship timber.] - -The Douglas Fir constitutes the greater part of the forests, but not so -large a proportion as seven-eighths, as stated in the Census report, but -more than one-third, which is the proportion given in Hough's Forestry -Report. The wood of this tree is yellow when young, and hence some -persons make two varieties out of the same tree. When older, it becomes -an orange color, but not red like the heart of the sweet gum and red -cedar. It is, however, usually called the red fir. The tree yields a -clear yellow resin, which is not at present collected. Its timber is of -the best quality, greatly superior to that of the fir tribe generally, -probably superior to that of any other fir-tree in the world. The firs -shade into each other by an almost insensible gradation, and are much -modified by soil and climate, and names have been multiplied -unnecessarily. The fir, like the larch, must be studied in each locality -in order to determine its value. The firs of Sweden and Norway make good -masts and spars, and soft, light boards; but the boards are apt to split -and are not strong enough for ship-work. But the timber of the Douglas -fir is heavy, strong and firm, and well suited to ship-building, as has -been abundantly demonstrated on Puget Sound. For all ordinary building -purposes this timber has a world-wide reputation. It is often called the -"Oregon Pine." Its growth as a tree is luxuriant on good soil, and often -gigantic. I saw many single specimens which I estimated at 300 feet in -height and 10 to 12 feet in diameter. When disconnected, they have the -usual conical shape of the firs, with limbs branching from the ground, -but it is rare to see such specimens in Washington Territory, as the -forests are so dense there is no room for limbs, except near the top. -The trunks stand as straight and regular as posts set with a plumb-line. -This crowding often prevents the full development of the trunk also, -except on the most moist and fertile lands. The absence of lower -branches insures a great length of lumber free from knots. - - [Sidenote: White cedar.] - - [Sidenote: Beautiful house lumber.] - -The White Cedar is a variety of the well-known arbor vitae of the Eastern -States, but there is a wonderful difference in the size and habits of -the tree on the two sides of the Continent. On the Atlantic side it may, -under very favorable circumstances, reach fifty feet in height, but -usually it is dwarfish and crooked. But in Washington Territory the -white cedar is the peer of the Douglas fir, and its largest specimens -perhaps exceed the latter somewhat in diameter. It is also next in -abundance and value. Its wood is soft, light and cream-colored. It -splits with remarkable ease and regularity, so that the pioneer with axe -and frow can prepare all the timbers needed for his house. For shingles -it is fully equal to its congener, the cypress; and for house-facings -and some kinds of furniture it is the favorite wood. - - [Sidenote: Hemlock spruce.] - - [Sidenote: Tanners wanted.] - -Hemlock Spruce is not so abundant, but it constitutes a noticeable -element in the Snoqualmie Valley forests. It seems to be exactly the -same tree which so abounds in our Eastern and Northern Lake States, and -is common in the moist valleys all along the Appalachian Mountains. It -is called hemlock in the Northern States, and spruce in the Southern. -Its wood, though unsuited for many purposes, is largely used in the -North for the frames of cheap buildings and also for fencing-plank, and -its bark is in great demand for tanning, especially for making the red -sole leather. It is also used for tanning upper leather and calf-skins, -though its light leather is not so good as that made from the oak barks. -The hemlock bark has not been considered quite equal to the chestnut-oak -(or rock oak) bark for any tanning purposes, but in Virginia the price -is usually the same. It certainly makes good sole leather. The logger in -Washington Territory neglects this tree, and there are no tanneries yet -to call for it, but this will soon be changed, and the hemlock will take -its position, not only as the most beautiful of the evergreens, but as -among the most useful. This tree does not attain as great size as the -two above mentioned, but I observed many specimens ranging from four to -five feet in diameter. - - [Sidenote: White pine.] - -The general character of the White Pine is well known. I saw but a few -of them, and they not specially good. I doubt whether this tree forms an -important feature in these forests. - - [Sidenote: Balsam fir.] - - [Sidenote: Large supply of Canada Balsam.] - -The Balsam (or White) Fir abounds on the higher slopes of the Cascade -Mountains, and it is so balsamic that it will receive attention from -the collectors of "Canada Balsam," which is becoming increasingly -popular for many purposes, especially in mounting specimens for the -microscope. Such forests as lie near the Snoqualmie Pass will not long -remain unnoticed. The wood is white and easily worked, but the trees do -not rank in size or value with those previously mentioned. - - [Sidenote: The yew.] - -The Yew is found sparingly on the mountain heights; but, though -interesting, it seems to have no economic value. - - [Sidenote: The superior timber of Snoqualmie Valley.] - -As to the extent of these evergreen forests, they may be said to cover -West Washington with almost unbroken continuity, though they vary in -density and the size of the trees, some tracts containing little or no -mill-timber. In my travels, which were, of course, quite limited, I saw -no forests which answered the usual unqualified descriptions, except in -the Snoqualmie Valley, and here they far exceeded my expectation, as -will be shown in the detailed description, given hereafter, of the -country lying along the line of the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern -Railway. The finest forests lie between Puget Sound and the crest of the -Cascade Mountains, though even in this area there are variations. And -after all the chopping and sawing--of which more will be told -later--the forests as yet show but little diminution. - -East of the Cascade Range the forests are smaller, and confined to the -mountain sides. There are some narrow belts of pine along the northern -edge of the Great Plain of the Columbia, which furnish a little lumber -for local uses; but these will soon be worked out. The mountain rim -lying along the Canada line is said to be covered with forest, some of -it heavy. The Douglas Fir, the Yellow Pine, the White Pine, and the -Larch are all to be found there. There are also skirts of the same -timber along the Spokane River. And, at wide intervals, there are strips -and bunches of scrubby yellow pine on the Great Plain, which is, -however, generally treeless. - -The spurs and ridges of the Blue Mountains are thinly covered with small -pines and larches. There are some areas of mill-timber on the east and -southeast flanks of the Cascade Mountains. - - [Sidenote: Range for horses and cattle.] - -The flora of the great plateau presents a strange appearance to the -traveler. The vegetation is short and scanty, the chief growth being the -"sage-brush," a dwarfish, dead-looking shrub, with a hard, crooked stem, -of no value as forage, but which is sometimes used for fuel when -nothing else is to be had. There are said to be some medicinal, and also -some edible, plants; but the only thing of any value is the dry, thin, -short, bunch grass which furnishes a fattening food for horses and -cattle; though many acres are required to support an animal, and close -grazing is rapidly destroying this resource. Indeed, the tract is so -barren and desert-like in appearance that in the geographies of my -boyhood it was put down as a part of the Great American Desert. And yet, -as will be seen hereafter, this is probably the most productive upland -in America. - - -LUMBERING. - -Lumbering was the first industry of Washington Territory. Even food was -imported for a time. Logging began on Puget Sound, and went up such -streams as afforded transportation and water-power. Steam-power soon -became the chief reliance for sawing, but water-power will be largely -used when the railroads penetrate inland. - -Logging and sawing are separate branches of business, which may or may -not be carried on by the same parties. And so with transportation to the -mill and to market. Large concerns carry on all the branches, even to -the building and owning of ships. - - [Sidenote: Magnitude of the lumber business.] - -Governor Semple gives the capacity of the Washington Territory saw-mills -in 1887 as 645,500,000 feet of lumber per annum, of which the Puget -Sound mills produce 344,500,000 feet. Of this, they (Puget Sound mills) -sent 200,000,000 feet to California; 2,600,000 to Boston, Mass.; 500,000 -feet to other Atlantic ports, and over 100,000,000 feet to foreign -ports. Among foreign ports, London received 551,500 feet, and the rest -went to Mexico, South America, China, Australia, and other Pacific -Islands. - -Mr. Cyrus Walker, of the Puget Mill Company, Port Ludlow, in a letter -which I have from him, says: - - [Sidenote: Vast extent of the lumber market.] - -"It is safe to say that the lumber market of the Sound may be considered -all countries and ports on the Pacific Ocean." - -But it may make a more vivid impression of the Pacific market for me to -give a list of the ports to which shipments have been actually made in -the last year by the lumber dealers of Puget Sound. This list I get not -only from public documents, but directly from the millers and port -officials: - - Melbourne, - Callao, - Sydney, - Guaymas, - Iquique, - Taku, - Hilo, H. I., - San Francisco, - Townsville, - West Coast, - Brisbane, - Sandwich Islands, - New Caledonia, - Mollendo, - Montevideo, - Honolulu, - Valpa, - Suava, Feejee Is., - Kahalui, - Cadera, Chili, - San Diego, - San Pedro, - Hong Kong, - Enseneda, Mex., - Falmouth, - Shanghai, - Autofogasta, - Rio de Janeiro, - Broken Bay, - Adelaide, - Coquimbo. - -This is not a complete list of all the ports visited by the lumber ships -of Puget Sound, and by no means represents the business of the future, -which will increase as fast as the mills can be built to furnish the -lumber. - - [Sidenote: The great saw-mills.] - -No one without seeing it can have an adequate idea of the magnitude of -the operations of one of the great saw-mills of Puget Sound. The Puget -Mill Company, for the first ten months of last year, sawed on an average -290,000 feet every day of ten working hours. I visited the Port Blakely -Mills, just across the Sound from Seattle. There I found a fleet of -ships in the harbor, owned chiefly by the company; also, ships building -on the stocks; railroads going out to the logging camps; a basin for -receiving the logs, and a mill, with four separate tracks, bringing the -logs in at one end, and carrying out the lumber at the other. A high -iron trestle carried off the slabs to an enormous fire which never -ceased to burn, where all this waste was consumed. - -Around the mill was quite a town, in which a large number of races and -nationalities were represented. This mill cut about 59,000,000 feet in -1887. Up to the 10th of November it had shipped as follows: To -California, 32,464,763 feet; to South America, 6,847,427 feet; to -Sandwich Islands, 1,799,891 feet; to Australia, 6,681,668 feet; to -Feejee Islands, 511,815 feet; and used at home for ship-building, -railroads, etc., 2,312,000 feet. - -The Tacoma Mill Company and the Washington Mill Company produced the -following lumber, etc., during 1886 and the first ten months of 1887: - - LUMBER. LATH. PILES. - FEET. NO. LINEAR FT. - Tacoma Mill 103,448,350 28,815,095 642,385 - Washington Mill 42,195,478 8,772,800 266,403 - -There were other large mills whose statistics I was not able to get in -time. Mr. Walker thinks that the cut of all the mills on Puget Sound -averages 1,200,000 feet per day; all of which finds ready sale. - -[Sidenote: Profits and prices.] - -I was not able to ascertain the profits of these mills, but there can -be no doubt that, with proper management, the profits are very good. The -Seattle wholesale prices were as follows: - - Lumber, common, per thousand feet $12 00 - " sized, " " " 14 00 - " Flooring $15 00 to 20 00 - Dressed lumber, per thousand feet 14 00 to 30 00 - Laths 2 00 to 2 25 - Shingles 1 50 to 2 00 - - -AGRICULTURE. - - [Sidenote: Clearing the land.] - - [Sidenote: Demand for agricultural products.] - - [Sidenote: Large crops.] - - [Sidenote: Hop-growing on a large scale.] - -After hearing of the forests in West Washington, one cannot be surprised -to learn that the agricultural interest develops slowly in this part of -the Territory. Even after the logger has taken what he wants, there -remains a heavy mass of vegetation which is expensive to clear away. A -thorough clearing, including the removal of stumps, costs $75 to $100 -per acre; and yet this is sometimes done for hops, hay and vegetables. -But the common way is to "slash and burn," at an expense of ten to -fifteen dollars an acre. This clears off everything but stumps, and such -trees as may be reserved for the mill or other purposes. There are fine -farms in every direction, but I had no means of ascertaining the -proportion of cleared land, or of the agricultural population. The -natural fertility of the soil, the high prices of produce, and the -rapidly growing demand, both foreign and local, will tempt to a wasteful -destruction of timber in order to prepare the ground for crops. There -need be no doubt as to the extraordinary productiveness of the soils, -even beyond that of the same quality of lands elsewhere; because the -climatic conditions are extra favorable for the growth of all crops -suited to the country. There are some crops, such as corn, lima beans -and sweet potatoes, which are contra-indicated. The cool summer nights -check the maturing of these. Wheat, also, is not suited, though produced -to some extent. But for almost everything else the conditions favor -extra production. The conditions could scarcely be better for grass and -hay. The scantiness of the summer rains is more than compensated for by -the long growing seasons in fall and spring. No soil and climate could -be better for oats and potatoes. The reported yield of these three -staples would be called fabulous if not established by good testimony. -Three tons of hay, 100 bushels of oats, and 600 bushels of potatoes per -acre are above the average, but by no means reach the maximum on the -best lands. Most fruits do well. In the production of hops West -Washington has become celebrated as to quality and yield per acre. -This is probably the largest of the agricultural interests in this part -of the Territory, and was at one time enormously profitable. Present -prices are thought to leave some margin, but not much. - - [Illustration: INDIANS GATHERING HOPS, WASHINGTON TERRITORY, ON LINE - OF SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN RAILWAY.] - - [Sidenote: The changed agricultural conditions of East Washington.] - - [Sidenote: Irrigation in the Yakima Valley.] - -As heretofore remarked, the agricultural conditions change suddenly on -crossing the Cascade Mountains to the eastward; and this change begins -at the crest line, and is more marked on the mountain side and near its -base than anywhere else. The winters are longer and more severe, and the -summers drier and hotter. There is natural pasturage similar to that of -the plateau country, coming up to the timber line, the lower edge of -which is high on the mountain. Much of this mountain land, though -covered scantily with sage brush and bunch grass, is really fertile, -and, besides supporting cattle, can be made to bring fair crops of wheat -and other things; but the rainfall is so insufficient that irrigation is -necessary for the development of any large agricultural interest. -Fortunately, in the large basin of the Yakima, irrigating streams are -abundant, and its enterprising people are availing themselves of this -happy resource. By reference to a good map it will be seen that the -Yakima River is made up of an unusual number of streams. A group of -these come together near Ellensburg, and another group near the town of -North Yakima; and there are said to be large bodies of land susceptible -of irrigation by these streams. The Ellensburg valley is thirty miles -long, and about ten miles wide; and is the best agricultural section in -Kittitas County. It is claimed that forty bushels of wheat to the acre -can be produced here without irrigation; and that 1,000,000 bushels of -wheat were actually produced in this basin in 1887. Hay, hops, -vegetables, berries and fruits also do well naturally, but with -irrigation the product is uniformly large. There are four irrigating -canals in the valley. The Teanaway Ditch Company has one fifty miles -long which can water 75,000 acres of land. The Ellensburg Ditch Company -has a ditch ten miles long, covering 10,000 acres. Mr. Bull has one six -miles long, and the owners of the new roller mill have two and a half -miles of ditch. - -Next below Kittitas is Yakima County, which contains a number of fertile -valleys, and also good uplands, and is well supplied with irrigating -streams, which have already been brought into use. Two large ditches are -drawn from the Natchess River. Ditches are also taken from the Ahtanum, -which is the principal hop-raising section. A plateau, three by ten -miles, between the Cowiche and Natchess, will all be irrigated. The -Moxee Valley is largely owned by Eastern and other capitalists, who seem -to be expending much money in the improvement of the country. This -company has fourteen miles of ditch. - - [Sidenote: Varied crops.] - -By the help of these ditches the people of Yakima Valley are producing -corn, which under the hot sun of the locality perfects its product. -Tobacco has been tried also with fair results. And the Moxee County will -try the dairy business. There is a disposition also to try improved -breeds of cattle. The spirit of enterprise has resulted largely from the -passage of the Northern Pacific Railroad along the Yakima Valley; but at -the same time the greatest obstacle in the way of irrigation lies in the -ownership of alternate sections by this railroad. The Yakima Indians -have good lands, and Klickatat County is well spoken of. Sweet potatoes, -tomatoes, peaches, grapes, and other things requiring much heat, are -said to thrive in the lower parts of the Yakima Valley. - - [Sidenote: The Great Plain.] - - [Sidenote: Boundaries.] - -We enter now the last grand division of the country, the Great Plain, -or, more strictly, plateau of the Columbia River. In spite of its -unpromising aspect, this is the chief agricultural region of the Pacific -States. To get the exact boundary, find the point (a little below -Wallula Junction) where Washington and Oregon both corner on the -Columbia River. From this point, follow the Columbia up to the mouth of -Spokane River; follow Spokane River up to the Idaho line; follow the -Idaho line south to the Oregon line; follow the Oregon line due-west to -the beginning, and within these lines lies the region which is destined -to be the granary of the Pacific States. - - [Sidenote: Early history.] - -The settlement of this plain began near Walla Walla, where a Christian -mission was established by Whitman, the hero and martyr, who saved this -country to the United States. Hence the most thickly populated part of -the plain is between the Oregon line and Snake River. This region was -supplied with transportation by the Oregon Railway and Navigation -Company. The largest agricultural production is here. - - [Sidenote: Area and population.] - -Immigration next moved north of Snake River into the valley of the -Palouse River, and here we have the next largest area of production. -When the Northern Pacific Railroad came in from the east, the new-comers -entered the Great Bend country, which is the northern half of the -plain. The chief settlement here is in Spokane and Lincoln counties, -which cover nearly half of the Great Bend. Douglas County covers the -remainder, and is beginning to be settled. There are ten counties on the -plateau, with an aggregate area of 20,000 square miles and a population -of 52,000. Of this population, 20,000 is south of the Snake River, -14,000 north of Snake River, and 18,000 in the Great Bend, including -Spokane Falls. - - [Sidenote: Amazing wheat crops: surpassing all other States.] - -The great staple of this country is wheat, though almost every crop is -grown, and most of them with remarkable results. Corn is grown only -south of Snake River, where it yields thirty bushels to the acre. The -average yield of wheat year by year for the entire Territory is put by -Governor Squire at twenty-five bushels, and no one who knows the country -can regard this otherwise than as a moderate estimate. This average -places Washington Territory beyond comparison first among the States of -America, and, so far as I can learn, second only to England among other -nations. England, by the highest manuring, has brought her wheat product -up to thirty bushels, which is double the average of former years. By -the census of 1880, Washington Territory, as a whole, leads all the -other States. The following tables give the average of ten of the chief -wheat-producing States: - - WHEAT, PER ACRE. BUSHELS. - - California 15.8 - Dakota 10.6 - Minnesota 11.3 - New York 15.7 - Ohio 18.0 - Pennsylvania 13.4 - Virginia 8.6 - Washington Territory 23.5 - Oregon 16.8 - Illinois 15.5 - -The year 1886 was the worst wheat year ever known in Washington -Territory: its crop averaged sixteen and a half bushels. - - [Sidenote: Railroads overwhelmed with freight.] - -It is thought that the wheat crop of East Washington for 1887 will -exceed 10,000,000 bushels. It certainly went far beyond the ability of -the railroads to carry it away before winter. The most amazing glut of -freight I have ever seen was along the railroads in Walla Walla County. -Not only were the depots crowded to the roof, but piles of sacks larger -than the depots stood outside. It was a common sight through the whole -Snake River country to see 10,000 sacks of wheat in one pile outside of -the depots. - - [Sidenote: Price of wheat and cost of production.] - -The price of wheat runs from 40 cents to 60 cents a bushel; whilst the -cost of production on good land need not exceed 25 cents a bushel. Mr. -Hamilton, of Colfax, has a farm which he cultivates entirely by hired -labor, and he told me that the cost of his wheat was from 20 cents to 25 -cents, and that his profit was $5 per acre. Good farms about Colfax can -be rented out at $2.50 per acre for the whole farm. Mr. Miles C. Moore, -of Walla Walla, probably the most exact business man of that region, -farms largely by hiring labor. He gave me the following statement of his -own operations: - -WHEAT GROWING AND DELIVERING. - - - _Dr._ Cost of ploughing, per acre $1 50 - Cost of twice harrowing and sowing 1 00 - Seed, 1-1/4 bushel 62 - Thirteen sacks at 8 cents 1 04 - Keeping up fences 10 - Harvesting and hauling five miles to - depot, 17 cents per bushel 4 76 - ------ - $9 02 - - _Cr._ By 28 bushels per acre at 50 cents $14 00 - Cost of production 9 00 - ------ - Profit $5 00 - -This product could not be expected on inferior lands, but with the -working farmer the cost of production is less. The yield of wheat on -the best lands of East Washington is large--almost beyond belief. Mr. -Houghton, attorney for the Spokane Falls and Palouse Railroad, told me -that he had known of 800 bushels of wheat being raised on ten acres; -that it was measured by a committee. Mr. Miles C. Moore has known 1,000 -acres to average fifty bushels. A farmer (apparently honest) told me -that he had raised seventy-five bushels to the acre over his whole wheat -area. His crop was harvested by the acre, and the area measured by the -county surveyor. It was all sold, except seed. Thus he got both area and -product accurately. Many more instances were stated to me on good -authority. But there are different grades of fertility in these lands as -in other lands, and the amount of rainfall makes a difference also. -Wallula has but twelve inches of rain, and is unproductive. There must -be fifteen inches for wheat. Walla Walla has seventeen, and is -productive. Nearer to the Blue Mountains the rainfall is thirty to -thirty-five inches; here are the largest crops. Spokane Falls has -twenty-one inches. Yet where else on the earth can such crops be raised -even occasionally? I have been growing wheat for thirty-five years on -good land in the Valley of Virginia, and I never could reach thirty -bushels to the acre on a single field; and I do not believe that my -neighbors can do better than I do. We count twenty bushels an extra -crop. - - [Sidenote: Also barley and oats.] - -Besides wheat, these lands produce barley of superior quality, weighing -fifty pounds to the bushel, at the rate of fifty to sixty bushels per -acre, and oats weighing thirty-eight pounds to the bushel at the same -rate per acre. The weight of wheat is sixty pounds to the bushel. Barley -sells at 90 cents per 100 pounds, and is largely shipped East to be made -into beer. - -The wheat usually grown is the Little Club, a short, strong white wheat; -but the Little Giant, Red Chaff and Chili Giant are productive. Spring -wheat is generally sown, but winter wheat is probably best. Blue stem -brings five cents extra in Portland. Freight, $5 a ton from Walla Walla -to Portland; thirty-three bushels counted a ton. - -The wheat here has no enemies--no fly, nor rust, nor weeds, nor lodging. - - [Sidenote: The soil a natural fertilizer.] - -Much of the land has been cultivated for sixteen years without rest or -manure, and without diminution of crop; but the best farmers prefer to -rest and cultivate in alternate years. By the latter system the -ploughing is done in the off-year, and the land left a naked fallow. -This is thought to cleanse the land and renew its strength. And in some -cases in which lands have an excess of alkali, their productiveness -increases with cultivation. Sometimes the land contains as much as -eighteen pounds of potash to the cubic yard; which fact, by the way, -suggests the possibility of leaching the land to procure potash and -other alkalies. - - [Sidenote: Quality of the wheat.] - -The wheat of the Pacific coast has 4 per cent. less gluten in it than -the Eastern wheat, and this practically shuts it out of the Eastern -market. Nitrogen in Washington Territory wheat is 22 per cent. to 26 per -cent., whilst in the Eastern it is 34 per cent. to 40 per cent., and -inferior in quality. The true gluten is too brittle. It is better than -the California wheat, however, which has 4 per cent. to 6 per cent. less -nitrogenous matter, and the gluten inferior in quality. But the -California wheat makes a whiter flour than the Washington Territory -wheat, which is an advantage in selling. It should be remarked that the -term nitrogen, when applied technically to wheat, includes true gluten, -the phosphates, and all albuminoids, and excludes starch, sugar and -water, which latter comprise about seventy-two per cent. of the wheat. -Still, the Washington Territory wheat-grower has the advantage in -quantity per acre, which gives him a better profit than is now made in -California or any Eastern State. The price at Spokane Falls varies from -45 cents to 60 cents per bushel, which would give the farmer $10 to -$12.50 per acre for his crop, which is more than the average Eastern -farmer gets, whilst the cost of production ought to be, and ultimately -will be, less. - - [Sidenote: The market in England, China, and other Asiatic ports.] - -Flour is sent to England, by Cape Horn, at a cost of $1.30 per barrel -from Spokane Falls, and in Liverpool brings within 20 cents a barrel as -much as the Minneapolis flour, and it is also shipped to China and other -Asiatic ports, where it seems destined to supersede rice for bread. -China raises wheat, but not nearly enough for home consumption. The -Asiatic and Oceanic market will, ultimately, want all the wheat of our -Pacific States. - - [Sidenote: Astonishing growth of vegetables.] - - [Sidenote: Crops without rain.] - -Besides the cereals, vegetables of nearly all kinds grow to great size -on this plateau. Those requiring a more uniformly warm temperature, such -as tomatoes, sweet potatoes, beans and peanuts, do best in the region -lying south of the Snake River, which is much less elevated than the -country north and east. And this is true also of peaches, grapes, and -other fruits requiring similar conditions. But as regards most -vegetables, especially roots, and also fruits, the plateau generally is -very productive. This is almost unaccountable in view of the fact that -after the first of June there is little or no rain until late in the -fall. Whilst rain seems to be necessary to start the small seeds, large -crops of potatoes are sometimes raised without a drop of rain. The -moisture must come partly from the soil, which has retained the winter -water, and partly from the deposition of moisture by the sea-air which -comes through the gap in the Cascade Mountains and penetrates the deep, -loose soil. Mr. Paul F. Mohr has measured a parsnip four feet long and -eight inches across the top. I saw potatoes in Colfax, thirty of which -filled a bushel measure. - -As before intimated, I doubt whether the plateau can ever become a good -grass and hay country. For long forage, besides straw, the people must -depend upon the cereals mowed in the green state. - - [Sidenote: West (not East) Washington is to be the great cattle - country.] - -For this reason the plateau, as will also be the case with the great -plains eastward, can never carry the number of cattle that can be grazed -in a grass country. A farmer told me it required fifteen acres of bunch -grass to support one horse or steer, whilst in a grass country three -acres are ample, and on the best sods one acre is sufficient. Still, the -bunch grass is, and ought to be, utilized. And the areas of unimproved -land are so vast that the herds of cattle, horses and sheep which range -upon them altogether constitute a large item of wealth. And on these -treeless plains the effort seems to be to train the cattle and horses to -live like buffaloes and wild horses in both summer and winter. - - [Sidenote: Tree-planting.] - -The tree problem will, I think, work out satisfactorily, though, of -course, no such trees can ever be produced there as abound in West -Washington. Walla Walla is embowered in trees of artificial growth. The -Lombardy poplar seems to have been most successful. At various points I -saw plantations of box elder, and was told that this tree is easily -grown. The cottonwood is said to grow readily. Captain John McGowan -reports the successful culture of locust, walnut, maple and catalpa in -Lincoln County. He says, also, that the plum, peach, apricot, apple, -pear and grape succeed: and so with strawberries, raspberries and -blackberries. All these fruits are grown about Spokane Falls, but I -think that the grape and peach sometimes fail to mature. A good many -plantations of trees have been set out under the timber-culture act of -Congress, but it is thought that much imposition has been practised on -the Government by the failure to take proper care of the trees after -they were planted. The truth about the whole matter seems to be that, -with proper care, trees of most varieties may be grown on the plateau, -but that they will grow slowly and not attain large size. I might add -many details concerning the products of this wonderful country, but -these will suffice as illustrations. - - -LABOR. - - [Sidenote: Good supply of labor, but more wanted.] - -Under this head I will merely say that, though the laboring population -of Washington Territory is very mixed and has not the settled character -of labor in the old States, and though many more laborers could find -employment, there does not seem to be any special deficiency of this -class, and the high wages that are paid will, no doubt, bring in more -workmen as they are wanted. - - [Sidenote: Wages.] - -Governor Squire, in his report for 1885, page 41, gives quite a detailed -list of wages, which shows that the rates are at least fifty per cent. -higher than in the Middle States, and double what is paid in the -Southern Atlantic States. Farm laborers get from $25 to $30 a month and -board. Loggers pay from $35 to $40 per month to common hands, and $65 to -$70 to teamsters. Skilled labor receives high wages, and railway -contractors sometimes have to pay $2 to $2.50 per day for common -hands. Servant girls are scarce, and wanted, at $15 a month and board. -Hotel servants get from $20 to $25 a month. Chinamen are extensively -employed for family servants. Many of them are tolerable cooks, and get -$30 a month and board. Indians are working more than formerly. The men -"slash" the forests, pick hops, etc. Squaws always were industrious--had -to be! The Sandwich Islands, as well as China and Japan, furnish some -laborers. The employers are favorable to this class of immigrants, -whilst the white laborers are bitterly opposed to them. Canada will -continue to employ cheap Chinese labor, and thus place our Pacific -States at a disadvantage, if the present policy of excluding Chinese -labor is continued. - - [Illustration: BRIDGE OVER THE SPOKANE RIVER, SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND - EASTERN RAILWAY.] - - - - -THE GEOLOGY OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY. - - -HISTORICAL AND STRUCTURAL. - -I shall not say much about the historical geology of Washington -Territory, because it contains some problems which have never been -adequately studied, and which I had no opportunity to investigate. It is -to be hoped that the regular work of the Government Survey may soon be -extended to this important region. Hitherto it has been neglected. A few -able geologists such as Joseph Le Conte, Pumpelly, Newberry, Bailey -Willis, and some others, have made visits to the country on special -errands; but except the treatise of Bailey Willis in Vol. XV. of the -Census Reports, and some brief allusions to the country in systematic -works on general geology, I had nothing to guide me as to the structure -of the country, or the age of its deposits. For all practical purposes, -however, I had no difficulty in understanding the work I had to do. -[Sidenote: The Western Coast regions younger than the Rocky Mountains -and Appalachians.] - - [Sidenote: An outlying Continent.] - - [Sidenote: The rise of the West Coast.] - -All agree that the country west of the Rocky Mountains proper, and -including nearly all of California, Oregon, and Washington Territory, -is geologically younger than the main range, and younger than the -Appalachian country. At the close of the carboniferous period proper, -the Rocky Mountain range constituted a separate continent, with a sea -covering what is now the main Mississippi Valley, including the wide -plains immediately east of the Rocky Mountains, and connecting, -probably, with the polar sea, whilst the Pacific Ocean washed the -western edge of this Rocky Mountain continent; so that until after that -period there were no Wahsatch and Uintah mountains, no Sierra Nevada and -Cascade Range, no Coast Range, and, of course, none of the intervening -country. It is quite possible, however, that there was a third continent -lying west of the present continent in what is now ocean, from whose -waste the sediments were derived which were afterwards elevated and -became the land now included in the three States bordering the Pacific, -whilst the mother continent, which furnished the sediments, sank beneath -the ocean. If there were such an outlying continent, additional force is -given to the views of Dr. George F. Becker, endorsed by Dr. C. A. White, -and to some extent anticipated by Prof. J. D. Whitney, which render it -probable on other grounds that the two great lines of mountains, viz., -the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Range and the Coast Range, began their -upward movement simultaneously during the early ages of the Juro-Trias. -The rise of these mountain lines was gradual and marked by reverse -movements, whereby, after appearing above the surface, they sank and -rose alternately, receiving fresh sediments, which, especially in the -Washington Territory region and part of Oregon and California, when -above water, became clothed with an enormous vegetation which was packed -into coal-beds, layer after layer. In the lapse of time these all came -above the surface. The mountains grew higher and higher, attended by -intense heat in the axes of the ranges, and at different periods, down -almost to the present, exhibiting volcanic action on an enormous scale. -At other periods, a large portion of the region was visited by -ice-floods, succeeded by water-floods, which top-dressed great areas -with a mingled deposit of gravel, sand and mud, and carried away vast -blocks of the rocky substance of the country, and cut deep channels in -all the highlands. - -As Washington Territory is now presented to us, it exhibits a scene of -mountains, lowlands, and elevated plateaus, which are full of interest -and variety. Some general account of its topography has already been -given. - - [Illustration: LOWER SNOQUALMIE FALLS, 268 FEET HIGH, ON LINE OF - SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN RAILWAY.] - - - [Sidenote: The rocks and minerals of the Cascade Mountains.] - -The core of these high ranges is chiefly rock originally stratified, -which has been metamorphosed by heat, and perhaps inside of all, with -branches bursting out at various places, are plutonic rocks which have -never been stratified. This is the state of things on the top of the -Cascade Range, near Snoqualmie Pass, as well as on some subordinate -peaks and ranges. On Mount Logan, the Denny Mountain, etc., are large -bodies of syenitic granite whose age I have no means of determining. -Associated with this are quartzites of fine grain, and extremely hard, -porphyries, and serpentinoid and chloritic rocks of different sorts, in -which are imbedded the magnetic iron ores; and also large beds of -crystalline limestone, both fine and coarse grained. Crossing these, at -various angles, are veins containing the precious and base metals. - - [Sidenote: The metamorphic rocks of doubtful origin.] - -Whether these rocks are Palaeozoic or Archaean in their origin, or whether -they are simply the metamorphosed strata of the upper Juro-Trias, or the -lower Cretaceous, is a question for future study. These plutonic and -metamorphic rocks are believed to extend through the mountainous region -lying north of the Columbia River; and they are reported also in the -Coeur d'Alene Mountains. It is quite certain that on both flanks of -the Cascade Mountains we find in their natural state Cretaceous -conglomerates, sandstones, and shales bearing coal, at least in their -upper beds. The deposits on the east side of the mountain have been much -grooved and denuded, until we find only small areas of the Cretaceous -strata on the Yakima and the Wenatchie rivers, and the Peshastan ridge -between, with a patch of the coal-bearing rocks on the Yakima, and -another on the Wenatchie. On the west side of the mountain range, the -Cretaceous and coal-bearing areas are much larger. - - [Sidenote: The coal beds.] - -The coal deposits of all the Cretaceous regions of the West are regarded -as belonging to the Laramie period which closed the Cretaceous age, and -constitutes a transition period between the Cretaceous and Tertiary. But -I do not regard this question as settled. The inferior lignites of the -Rocky Mountains, and the semi-lignites which constitute the upper beds -of the Washington Cretaceous coal properly belong to the Laramie period; -but to include the underlying bituminous coals in the same group may be -a matter of question. More will be said in reference to these coal beds -under the next head. The Western coal-bearing rocks begin on outlying -mountains, standing at the west foot of the main Cascade Range. These -outlyers are irregular in size, height and direction; but many of them -are 1,000 to 1,500 feet in height, and they are found in groups, -separated by denuded spaces, from the Cascade Mountains to the Pacific -Ocean, and from the Canada line nearly to the Columbia River. The -largest and most important field, however, lies south of the Snoqualmie -River and between Puget Sound and the Cascade Mountains. Some of the -coals found in the most southern part of the field, and on the Coast -Range, are referred to the Tertiary period. - -A smaller and wholly undeveloped field lies on the Skagit River, and -another on, and west of Bellingham Bay. Similar beds are found on -Vancouver's Island. Coal-bearing strata are found also on the Chehalis, -Des Chutes, Nisqually and Cowlitz rivers. Whilst some of these southern -and western strata are referred to the Tertiary period, there has been -no systematic study of their geologic relations. - - [Sidenote: The volcanic mountains and their great activity.] - -It seems to be settled, however, that the lofty volcanic mountains which -form conspicuous features in the scenery of the Cascade Range, were -active in the Tertiary period, and not only built their own crests 9,000 -to 15,000 feet high, but inundated much of the surrounding country with -lava to an amazing breadth and depth. In this region, Mount Baker, Mount -Ranier (also called Mount Tacoma), Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams in -Washington Territory, and Mount Hood in Oregon, were the centres of the -grandest operations; and so continued for ages. - - [Sidenote: The wonderful canon of the Columbia River.] - -We see gigantic results of this activity in the canon 1,000 to over -3,000 feet deep, which the Columbia River has cut through this volcanic -matter in its passage through the Cascade Mountains. This volcanic -deposit consists of brown basalt, which in cooling crystallized into -vertical, polygonal prisms, or columns, which have been sculptured by -the weather into endlessly varied forms, beautiful, fantastic, and -grand; altogether presenting a scene, or succession of scenes, for -twenty-five miles, such as can nowhere else be equaled on the American -continent, unless it be near by, on a tributary of the Columbia, the Des -Chutes River of Oregon. - - [Sidenote: The great sheets of basalt.] - -This great pile of basalt was built up by a succession of overflows of -lava, the joints of which are plainly visible. The basaltic area, though -perhaps thickest here, continues with a thickness of 1,000 to 1,500 feet -up the Columbia for hundreds of miles; indeed the whole plateau, or -prairie country of East Washington, which is a quadrilateral of some 200 -miles in diameter, is but a continuation of the great lava-sheet seen at -the Cascades and the Dalles. Through it the Columbia and Snake rivers -have cut deep channels; and other, though shallower channels, have been -cut across the surface of the plateau by departed streams. - - [Sidenote: Origin of the rich soil of East Washington.] - -Whether the extremely fertile soil which overlies the basalt in East -Washington is a top-dressing of volcanic ashes, or is decomposed basalt, -cannot readily be determined. It cannot be referred to the Glacial -period, as I observed no appearance of drift anywhere except in the -valley of Spokane River. Such a wide spread of lava is not unexampled in -view of somewhat similar overflows now occurring at intervals in the -Sandwich Islands, where lava runs and spreads itself like water. These -Hawaiian flows are mentioned by Captain C. F. Dutton in his report of -the Zuni Plateau. - -A ledge of sandstone belonging to the Meiocene Tertiary is visible under -the basalt at the lower cascade in the Columbia River; and a stratum of -iron ore and vegetable matter is found on the Willamette at Oswego, -lying horizontally between great masses of basalt, showing a long -interval between overflows. - - [Sidenote: The volcanoes not wholly extinct.] - -These eruptions probably continued with diminishing force until near the -present time. It is reported that Mount Hood has sent out smoke or steam -since the settlement of Oregon. The crater of Mount Ranier was visited -by two gentlemen within a few years, and a night spent in its bottom by -the side of a jet of steam. Such, at least, is the account given by one -of them, Mr. Stevens. - - [Sidenote: Glacial drift.] - -The Quaternary or Drift Period has left abundant, though by no means -universal, traces of its presence. As before intimated, I saw no relics -of it in East Washington, except a deposit of rather small, generally -very small, and well-rounded quartz gravel, thickly strewing, and really -forming, the flats bordering Spokane River. This gravel macadamizes the -streets of the City of Spokane Falls, and the neighboring roads, so as -to make them firm at all seasons. These gravelly bottoms are not -tillable except in a few spots. - -The undulating country north and east of Puget Sound is in many places -deeply covered with drift material which shows the effect of both ice -and water. Blocks of partially rounded granite several feet in diameter -are found on the hills around Seattle. This gravel deposit is not often -found on high points, but there is a ridge in the Cascade Mountains, -near Salal Prairie, which is thickly bestrewed at an elevation of 1,000 -feet. This, however, was quite exceptional, and may be the lateral -moraine of a local glacier. The deposit around Seattle is not only easy -to cultivate (its soil being a light blue loam), but seems fertile. The -bottom lands are free from gravel. - -So much for the general geology. - - -ECONOMIC GEOLOGY. - - NOTE.--The location of the coal-fields and collieries mentioned in - the following pages may be seen on an accompanying map. - - -Under the head of Economic Geology, I shall describe with more detail -the mineral beds which have a commercial value, and in the following -order:--I. Coal; II. Iron Ore; III. Granite, Limestone, and Marble; IV. -Precious and Base Metals. - - [Sidenote: Thickness of the Coal Measures.] - -I. COAL.--The thickness of the Coal Measures of the Puget Sound basin is -estimated by Bailey Willis at something like 14,000 feet, though he -admits the obvious possibility of error in the calculation by reason of -undiscovered faults. We may fairly expect them, however, to be thicker -than the same group in the Rocky Mountains, which measure about 9,000 -feet. As heretofore remarked, the sediments become thinner from west to -east. Of course, the maximum thickness is not to be expected in every -locality. Mr. Willis's estimate was made in the Wilkeson and Green River -fields, and really did not reach the limit of the coal-bearing rocks. -The coal rocks of the Cedar River and Snoqualmie basin have never, so -far as I know, been estimated, but probably this group is equal in -thickness to that of any other part of the field. The difficulty of -measurement arises from the numerous fractures and changes of strike -which exist. - - [Sidenote: Fifteen workable seams.] - -The number of distinct workable seams of coal of three feet and upwards, -belonging to the measures, may safely be put down at not less than -fifteen. - - [Sidenote: Different kinds of coal described.] - -Before considering the quality of these coals, I will, for better -understanding, make some prefatory statements in regard to the character -of coals generally. Charcoal has greater purity than mineral coals -usually have, because there is nothing in the charcoal except what -naturally belongs to the woody matter. Mineral coal, however, having -been buried in water, mud, and sand, must, almost of necessity, have -some mixture of foreign matter, either slate, which is simply hardened -mud; silica, which may have been derived from sand; iron and sulphur, -some of which may have been in the wood, but most of it, probably, -introduced in solutions; to which should be added, unexpelled oxygen, -which is not only useless as fuel, but which combines with a portion of -the contained hydrogen, and forms water in the substance of the coal. - -The proportion of ash in coals of the same class is usually determined -by the amount of slate in the coal, in addition to the mineral matter -which belonged originally to the vegetable material from which the coal -was formed. In the pure state, the proportion of ash increases as the -transformation of woody fibre goes on from peat to anthracite. - - [Sidenote: The chemical changes in coal beds.] - -It is worth while to note what are the changes which take place in the -vegetable matter during the process. It may be described in a word as a -progressive loss of oxygen, and by this loss the coal becomes richer, -for the reason just given. The deoxidizing process is carried on by -means of chemical changes in the substance of the coaly matter. The -oxygen combining with a certain proportion of the carbon, forms carbon -di-oxide, or carbonic acid gas; and a certain other portion, combining -with hydrogen, forms water. Both of these are volatile in their -character, and gradually escape. Another loss is effected by the -combination of hydrogen and carbon, forming marsh gas. We have deadly -proof that these combinations are in progress in all coal mines by the -occurrence of "choke-damp" and "fire-damp," which are the miners' names -for these gases. - - [Sidenote: Deficient nomenclature.] - -Unfortunately, we have no settled nomenclature for the varieties of -coal, excepting the broad names lignite or brown coal, bituminous coal, -and anthracite. Even the term "bituminous" is scientifically inaccurate, -there being, in fact, no bitumen in any coal. But it is applied to such -coals as contain more oxygen and volatile combustible matter and water -than anthracite, and less of these elements than lignite. The term -lignite is made to include a great variety of substances, covering the -lignites of the Juro-Trias of James River (Dutch Gap), which retain not -only the structure, but the appearance of decaying wood; the lignites of -the State of Mississippi, which are of the same geologic age as those of -the Rocky Mountains, but which, owing to their watery and crumbly -character, are unfit for market; the lignites of the Grand and Moreau -rivers of Dakota, which are reported to have no commercial value; the -lignites of Bozeman, Montana, which are really valuable, but soon break -down into chips and grits; the lignites of Green River, Wyoming, which -are firm, bright, lump coals; and the lignites of King County, -Washington Territory, many of which are hard, bright, steam and shipping -coals. And when brought to the laboratory, it is found that chemically -these lignites vary even more than they do optically. - - [Sidenote: Lignite an unsuitable name for the coals of Washington - Territory.] - -This want of a varied nomenclature is to be regretted, because it -sometimes handicaps a good coal with an inferior name. It is only of -late that the Laramie or Cretaceous coals of Washington Territory have -been divided into lignites, bituminous coals, and anthracites. These -grade into each other so insensibly that it would be impossible to -classify them sharply. None of the lignites which I saw were as low in -grade as the typical lignite. The woody structure was quite discernible -in some samples of the Franklin coal, and less in the Newcastle and -Green River; but in respect to the two latter, I could not with the -naked eye discern more of the woody structure than I have seen in some -of the West Virginia coals, which belong to the Carboniferous period. I -sat by fires of Newcastle and neighboring coals for a month, and -observed no unusual amount of smoke, and no peculiar odor. By analysis, -these coals show a larger percentage of oxygen than the typical -bituminous coal, but decidedly less than is found in the brown coal of -Germany, or in some of the lignites of Montana. They need a new name. -Their heating power is not so great as that of the bituminous coals of -the same region. Their streak and powder are less black, and their -fracture more conchoidal, but not decidedly so. - -The bituminous coals have the usual cubical fracture. The Wilkeson -readily breaks down into small cubes. The lignites are black and -lustrous. They come out as lumpy as ordinary coal, and, when exposed to -weather, do not break up into powder and grits like ordinary lignite. -This is true, at least, of the Newcastle coal. - - [Sidenote: The coking quality not general in these coals, but found in - some.] - -The coking quality of these coals cannot be determined by calculating -the proportion between the fixed carbon and the volatile, combustible -matter. I am not sure that Professor Fraser's fuel ratio tables are a -safe guide in any case. So far as now known, only a few of the -Washington Territory coals can be made into good coke. On this point, -however, we have only laboratory and rough field tests, excepting at the -Wilkeson mines, where twenty-five ovens were turning out a superior -quality of coke, as proved by every test save the use of it in high -furnace stacks, in which there had been no opportunity for trial. It is -claimed by many persons that seams on Green River, Skagit, Yakima, and -Snoqualmie will furnish good coking coal. The coal on Snoqualmie -Mountain, near Hop Ranch, has not been studied, but it certainly has the -external characteristics of good coking coal, and Mr. Peter Kirke made a -rough trial of it in an earth-pit with decidedly encouraging results. - -Somewhat similar coal is found on Raging River, but where opened, so -much slate was interleaved with the coal that washing would be necessary -before use. More will be said hereafter with regard to these coals; but -the remark may be repeated here in respect to the entire Puget Sound -basin, that much additional examination is necessary before its coals -will be fully understood. The variations in character of these are not -owing entirely, or even chiefly, to their relative ages, but also to the -conditions to which they have been subjected, especially in respect to -heat. This metamorphic agency has acted not only in the body of the -Cascade Mountains, but all through the coal-fields, where faults, -flexures, and intrusive rocks have occasioned changes in the original -condition of the coal-beds, giving results along the whole scale of -metamorphism from lignite to anthracite. - - [Sidenote: Analyses of Washington Territory coals.] - -I here introduce (on the opposite page) a table of analyses made in -Washington City from representative samples of Washington Territory -coals and lignites selected by Mr. Bailey Willis during the examination -which he made of this field for the Census Bureau, and found in Vol. XV. -of the Census Reports. - - -THE COLLIERIES. - -I will now give some account of the principal coal seams which have been -worked in Washington Territory, namely, those in the field lying east -and southeast of Puget Sound; and in so doing I shall add to my own -knowledge all information from any reliable sources. Unfortunately, the -sources of information are few. - - [Illustration: ENTRANCE TO GILMAN COAL MINE ON THE LINE OF THE SEATTLE, - LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN RAILWAY.] - - [Sidenote: Authorities.] - -In the Report of Bailey Willis to Professor Pumpelly for the Census -Bureau, we have the best account extant of the Carbon River and Green -River basins. Mr. Willis spent three years in his examination, assisted -by topographical engineers. He made numerous trial-pits and borings with -diamond drill, and forwarded samples to Washington City for analysis. -Mr. F. H. Whitworth, of Seattle, accompanied me in my excursions, and -prepared maps which are filed herewith. Mr. Whitworth has probably more -practical knowledge of the Puget Sound coal basin than any one else. A -small volume on the Pacific coal field was prepared some years ago by -Mr. W. A. Goodyear. And Governor Squire's lucid and intelligent reports -contain valuable information upon the coal, and all the other interests -of Washington Territory. Governor Semple has also, in his Report for -1887, given us the latest official information. - - -ANALYSES OF REPRESENTATIVE SAMPLES OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY COALS AND -LIGNITES. - -Key for Sites: - A Miles City, Dakota. - B Newcastle, Washington Territory. - C Vein (?) G. R. C. - D Vein 33, G. R. C. - E Vein (?), G. R. C. - F Vein xviii. G. R. C. - G Vein ix. G. R. C. - H Vein vi. G. R. C. - I Vein iii. G. R. C. - J Upper Yakima River, Wash'n Ter. - K Carbon Station, Wyoming Territory. - L Rock Springs, Wyoming Territory. - M Wingate Vein, Carbonado. - N Vein cxxiii. W. C. - O Vein xviii. W. C. - P Vein v. W. C. - Q Vein i. W. C. - R Vein lviii. B. B. C. - S Vein xliv. B. B. C. - T Vein _d_, Carbon River, W. C. - U Skagit River, Washington Territory. - V Raton, New Mexico. - W El Moro, New Mexico. - -Abbreviations for final row (Coke): - Wls Worthless - Exc Excellent - B&F Black and Friable - Ra Poor Rather Poor - - ======================+=============================+=================+ - | LIGNITES. | BITUMINOUS | BITUMINOUS | - | | LIGNITES. | COALS. | - +-----+-----+-----------------+-----------------+ - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | | - | A | B | J | K | L | U | V | W | - ----------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ - Original Sample No. | 79 | 24 | -- | -- | -- | 76 | -- | -- - ----------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ - Moisture |14.10| 4.16| 0.80| 8.10| 7.00| 1.17| 2.0 | 1.66| - Volatile Hydro-Carbons|36.95|44.84|36.02|34.70|36.81|14.40|37.1 |34.48| - Fixed Carbon |35.76|43.86|28.48|51.65|54.46|64.56|51.6 |60.08| - Ash |13.19| 7.14|28.23| 5.55| 1.73|19.87| 9.3 | 3.78| - F. C.--V. H. C. | 0.97| 0.98| 1.48| 1.48| 1.23| 4.48| 1.39| 1.74| - | | | | | | | | | - Coke | None| None| Fair| ----| ----| Ra | Good| Good| - | | | | | | Poor| | | - ======================+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+ - - ======================+=========================================+ - | LIGNITES. | - +-----+-----+-----------------+-----------+ - | Green River Field, Washington Ter. | - |-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ - | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | - | | | | | | | | - | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | - ----------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ - Original Sample No. | 59 | 56 | 50 | 27 | 42 | 43 | 45 | - ----------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ - Moisture | 7.27| 9.98| 8.68| 2.50| 4.82| 3.34| 3.24| - Volatile Hydro-Carbons|36.02|40.63|35.90|45.71|42.02|39.39|39.52| - Fixed Carbon |28.48|41.07|47.07|48.37|37.12|41.49|48.39| - Ash |28.23| 8.32| 8.35| 3.42|16.04|15.78| 9.85| - F. C.--V. H. C. | 0.79| 1.01| 1.31| 1.06| 0.88| 1.05| 1.22| - | | | | | | | | - Coke | None| None| None| Poor| None| None| Wls | - | | | | | [B] | [C] | | - ======================+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+ - - [B] Produced fragile coke in field test. - [C] Produced fragile coke in field test. - - ======================+===============================================+ - | BITUMINOUS COALS. | - +-----------------------------------------------+ - | Wilkeson Field, Washington Territory. | - +-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----------+ - | | | | | Altered by| | | - | | | | | Intrusive | | | - | | | | | Rocks. | | | - | | | | +-----+-----+ | | - | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | - ----------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ - Original Sample No. | 12 | 125 | 17 | 64 | 37 | 136 | 135 | 68 | - ----------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ - Moisture | 1.80| 3.98| 1.33| 1.16| 1.54| 0.61| 0.44| 2.56| - Volatile Hydro-Carbons|42.27|28.64|25.88|29.09|28.17|29.58| 5.84| 8.43| - Fixed Carbon |52.11|54.10|60.67|60.38|59.70|56.18|73.98|83.27| - Ash | 3.82|13.28|12.12| 9.37|10.59|13.63|19.74| 5.74| - F. C.--V. H. C. | 1.23| 1.88| 2.34| 2.07| 2.12| 1.89|12.67| 9.87| - | | | | | | | | | - Coke | Very| None| Exc | Exc | Poor| B&F | None| None| - | good| [D] | | | [E] | | | | - ======================+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+ - - [D] Produced first-class coke in field test. - [E] Produced first-class coke in field test. - - NOTE.--G. R. C.--Green River column. W. C.--Wilkeson column. - B. B. C.--Busy Brook column. - - - [Sidenote: The different mines.] - -In my brief sketches, I shall group the coal-beds as follows: _a_, -Carbon River Group; _b_, the Green River Group; _c_, Cedar River Group; -_d_, the Squak, Raging River, and Snoqualmie Groups; _e_, the Yakima and -Wenatchie Group; _f_, Bellingham Bay, Skagit River, etc.; _g_, British -Columbia Group. - - [Sidenote: Anthracite, coking and gas coals.] - -_a. Carbon River Group._--These beds lie on South Prairie Creek and -Carbon River, tributaries of the Puyallup River. Anthracite coal in thin -beds is reported high up on Carbon River, near the base of Mount Ranier; -the result of metamorphism. Also undeveloped outcrops of soft coal at -numerous points on the same river. There are, however, only three -collieries at work in this group. One is called the Carbonado mines, -which are on the Carbon River. Three miles north, a little east, are -the famous Wilkeson mines; and two miles northwest of Wilkeson, are the -South Prairie mines, on South Prairie Creek. (See Map.) - - [Illustration: MAP OF WILKESON COALFIELD] - -These coal-beds stand at high angles (fifty degrees and upwards), and -dip in different directions. At Carbonado, there are four seams in -pairs, separated by Carbon River, two of which dip to the south, and two -to the north. At the South Prairie mines there are two seams, one of -which dips to the east, and the other to the west. At Wilkeson there are -three seams, all of which dip to the west. Mr. Willis interprets this -coal-field as being a dome-like anticlinal, with compressed and crumpled -sides, whose major axis runs nearly north and south. The Wilkeson and -South Prairie mines are on the line of the major axis, whilst the -Carbonado mines are in a group of subordinate short folds lying south of -the main line. The anticline extends to Nisqually River, and shows two -other coal areas south of Carbon River, the coal of which is said to -resemble the Wilkeson coal. - -The Carbon River coal-field first having been almost engulphed by -volcanic uplifts and overflows, and almost buried by glacial drift, is -now visible only in narrow strips along creeks, and at intervals along -the Carbon River. - -Owing probably to the heating of its beds, we find in this little field -the coal which stands highest in reputation for coking and heating -qualities. There are some differences in the coal at the three mines. -That at South Prairie was sold chiefly for making gas. The best of the -Wilkeson coal is made into coke, and is in demand beyond the supply. The -price is $7.00 a ton at the ovens. The entire product of the Carbonado -mines is said to go to the Central Pacific Railway. It is impossible to -say what may be under the Drift; but, to all appearance, the amount of -coal here is not large, and the beds are sadly faulted, and pitch deep -into the ground. - - [Sidenote: The Common Point, equidistant between Tacoma and Seattle.] - -_b. The Green River Group._--I include in this group the Black Diamond -and Franklin collieries, the Kirke or Moss Bay Company mines, and the -Sugar Loaf Mountain beds. This, as well as the Carbon River field, is -nearly equidistant from Tacoma and Seattle, being about thirty miles in -a right line from each place. The Carbon River basin is geologically -associated with Mount Ranier; the Green River basin with the outliers or -foot ridges of the Cascade Mountains. The latter are much more -approachable than the former. At the east edge of this field, the -Northern Pacific Railroad emerges from the Cascade Mountains, having -come down the canon of Green River. This point is known as "The Common -Point," because the cities of Tacoma and Seattle are about equally -distant, and the routes afford equally good grades from this point. - -The narrow gauge road from Seattle now comes to the Franklin mines, and -by continuing it a few miles to connect with the Northern Pacific there -would be railroad connection to Seattle as well as to Tacoma. The river -here cuts through the Coal Measures, leaving the less valuable part of -the field on the south side. The area of this field is roughly estimated -at fifty square miles. It contains all, or nearly all, the grades of -coal from lignite to bituminous; the variety of coal depending upon the -degree of local disturbance. As a rule, so long as the coal is not -crushed, the more pitched and flexed the rocks, the better the coal; -which fact indemnifies the miner for extra expense in mining. Here, the -tendency is for the seams to become steeper and more broken from west to -east; _i.e._, as they approach the foot-hills of the Cascade Mountains. -The strata in Lizard Mountain on the south side, however, form an -exception. Here the strata are nearly horizontal. - - [Sidenote: Franklin and Black Diamond mines.] - -The Franklin mines are on the north bank of Green River and at the south -edge of what has been known as the McKay basin, and the Black Diamond -mines are on, or near, the north edge of the same small, oval synclinal -basin. From this basin the dips become steeper toward the mountain, -where Kirke's beds stand at a high angle. On the west edge of the Green -River basin, say a mile west of Franklin, there is an outcrop of -lignite. The coal of the Franklin and Black Diamond mines is bituminous -lignite. The Kirke coal, or at least part of it, as judged by the eye, -may be called bituminous coal, though not so much deoxidized as the -Wilkeson. The coals mined in this basin are firm, black and shiny; they -burn freely, and make but little dust. They have not, however, so far as -tested, the heating power or coking qualities of the Wilkeson coal. Two -seams are worked at Franklin, and three at Black Diamond. All of the -seams worked are above four feet. A number of volcanic dikes and flows -are found in and around this basin. - - [Sidenote: The Kirke or Moss Bay Company (English) mines.] - -The Kirke or Moss Bay Company mines are six miles east of Franklin, and -within a mile of Green River. They lie against the mountain. The strike -of the mountain is northwest. The coal beds dip toward the mountain at -a high angle. There are five seams of from five to fifteen feet in -thickness; one of them (No. 2) may be said to be over forty-seven feet -in thickness, though not all good coal, as the details given below will -show. The top of the outcrops above sea-level are as follows: - - FEET. - No. 1 970 - No. 2 1,160 - No. 3 1,350 - No. 4 1,461 - No. 5 1,513 - -Some places on the outcrop rise much higher. The base of the mountain is -about five hundred feet above sea-level. No shipping has been done from -here. A gang of miners was at work opening the beds, with the special -view of testing their coking qualities in order to be used, if -practicable, by the Moss Bay Company for smelting the steel ores of the -Cascade Mountains. - -The only seam well opened when I was there (Nov. 17th and 18th) was No. -3, which is a large bed and shows an excellent quality of bituminous -coal. The bed shows the side and end (or "tooth") structure. The coal is -very black and moderately lustrous, and breaks readily into small -rectangles of less than an inch. Its coking qualities have not been -tested. Nos. 4 and 5 are said to be softer and more powdery, and may -possibly be better for coke than No. 3. They have an available thickness -of about ten feet each. The details of No. 3 are as follows: - - Roof, Black Shale. FT. INS. - Coal 0 9 - Bone 1 6 - Coal 0 7 - Hard Slate 2 0 - Coal 0 8 - Bone 0 2 - Coal 0 5 - Bone 0 1 - Coal 1 2 - Soft Parting 0 1/2 - Coal 1 0 - Bone and Coal 0 7 - Coal 1 0 - Bone 0 1 - Coal 1 3 - Bone 0 1/4 - Coal 0 5 - Bone 0 1/2 - Coal 0 7 - Bone and Coal 1 8 - Coal 0 4-1/2 - Bone 0 1 - Coal 0 7 - Sandstone bottom. ----------- - Total 15 ft. 3/4 ins. - -There is a natural exposure of No. 2, the "Big Seam," which I saw on the -mountain-side above the miners' camp, and took the following details: - - No. 2, Big Seam, descending. FT. INS. - Coal 1 2 - Bone 0 2-1/2 - Coal 0 5 - Bone 0 4 - Coal 1 4 - Bone 0 1-1/2 - Coal 1 0 - Bone 0 1/4 - Coal 0 8 - Bone 0 1-1/2 - Coal 0 7 - Bone 0 1 - Nigger-head and Coal 0 6 - Bone 0 1-1/2 - Coal 1 8 - Bone 0 1/4 - Coal 2 0 - Bone 0 4 - Coal 1 10 - Bone 0 1 - Coal 0 7 - Bone 0 1-1/2 - Coal 1 0 - Bone 0 1/4 - Coal 1 2 - Bone 0 2-1/2 - Coal 0 6 - Bone 0 1-1/2 - Coal 0 3 - Bone 0 1/4 - Coal 1 3 - Bone 0 1/4 - Coal 1 8 - Shale 0 1-1/2 - Coal 0 6 - Bone 0 4 - Impure Bituminous Matter 21 5-3/4 - Coal, clean and good 5 6 - ----------- - Total 47 ft. 6 ins. - -The Kirke mines are sixteen miles from Salal Prairie, and two miles from -the Northern Pacific Railroad at the Common Point. The route has been -surveyed by the Northern Pacific Railroad. - -Adjoining the Kirke, or Moss Bay Company property, is a section of coal -land (No. 34) on Sugar Loaf Mountain, owned by parties in Seattle, who -offer it at $50,000. There are a number of seams on the property, but I -could examine only one which had been opened near the foot of the -mountain. It is a good seam of bituminous coal, of the same character -with the Kirke coal. I took the following details: - - Sandstone Roof. FT. INS. - Coal 1 6 - Soft Shale 0 1/4 - Coal 0 2 - Soft Clay 0 1/4 - Coal 0 1 - Soft Material, mining. 1 2 - Coal 0 6-1/2 - Slate 0 1/4 - Coal 1 0 - Bone 0 1/2 - Coal 0 10 - Bone 0 1/2 - Coal 0 5 - Bone 0 1/2 - Coal 0 7 - Bone 0 1 - Coal 0 4-1/2 - Bone 0 2-1/2 - Coal 1 4 - Hard Slate Floor. ---------- - Total 8 ft. 5-3/4 ins. - -_c. The Cedar River Group._--This group consists of the Cedar River -mines, nineteen miles from Seattle by rail, the Renton and Talbot mines, -ten miles, and the Newcastle, eighteen miles. These coals are in the -same river basin, and are all high grade lignites. - - [Sidenote: Cedar River mines.] - -The first shipment made from the Cedar River mines was in July, 1884. -There are two good seams here, one of which measures eleven feet. The -outcrop curves from a south to a southwest strike. The dip is 20 deg. toward -the east. - - [Sidenote: Talbot and Renton mines.] - -The Talbot and Renton mines, ten miles from Seattle, are on the same -seam, but, owing to faults and other causes, they have not been worked -of late. The seam is seven to nine feet of good coal, resembling the -Newcastle, but has a bad roof, and soon reaches water. The dip is to the -southeast at the grade of 10 deg. to 25 deg.. The outcrop curves as at Cedar -Mountain. This always bodes trouble. - - [Sidenote: Newcastle Mine.] - -The principal mine in this basin is the Newcastle, from which more coal -by far has been mined than from any other. Its present annual output is -equaled only by the Carbonado mines, which are pressed to their full -capacity by the Central Pacific Railroad. The Newcastle coal is a high -grade lignite, of firm texture, shining black color, and angular -fracture. It is not a coking coal, but has a wide and established -reputation for grate, stove, and boiler uses. It is the typical -"Seattle" coal, and is sold chiefly in Oregon and California. (To-day, -owing to scarcity, it would bring $25 per ton in Los Angeles). It has -not the heating power of bituminous coal, but it is greatly superior to -many of the lignitic coals. Many difficulties have been met with in the -mining at Newcastle, the most of which seem to have been owing to the -necessity for mining on the down grade, or fall of the coal; and the -mines being now 1,000 feet deep. - -I was twice at these mines, but, owing to the just previous destruction -of the hoisting machinery, I could not make an examination. - -An additional difficulty was that the mine had taken fire. - - [Sidenote: Cost of mining.] - -The cost of mining at Newcastle has ranged from 85 cents to $1.50 per -ton, averaging about $1.10. - - [Sidenote: Large production.] - -According to Governor Squire, in 1884, the beds mined at Newcastle were, -beginning at the lowest, 14 feet, 10 feet, and 5 feet in thickness. The -dip is 30 deg. to 40 deg. northward, and the trend north 80 deg. west. Governor -Semple gives the following as the output of the Newcastle mines from -June 30, 1878, to June 30, 1887: - - 1879 127,381 - 1880 128,853 - 1881 149,602 - 1882 158,340 - 1883 218,742 - 1884 149,948 - 1885 149,050 - 1886 85,561 - 1887 140,701 - --------- - Total 1,308,178 - - Average per year 145,353 - -"The great falling off in the output for 1886 is attributable mainly to -the labor troubles of that year, the mine being closed for several -months; also the abandonment of the workings from the No. 4 vein." - -The slope has now been sunk to a depth of 950 feet, and the mine is -being operated entirely from this level. When this lift is finished, it -is thought that several others of equal depth can be sunk as the basin -is likely to be very deep. - - [Sidenote: Misrepresentation.] - -After writing the foregoing, I received a volume issued annually by the -United States Geological Survey on the Mineral Resources of the United -States for 1886; and on page 364 I read with surprise the following -statements in regard to the Newcastle mines of Washington Territory: -"Considerable iron pyrites is present in this coal, which fact, added to -the chaff-like character of the coal for igniting, causes much annoyance -and cost to the mine from fires. Coal, or the mine refuse, piled in -large quantities quickly ignites." - -I knew when I was in the Territory that the mine was on fire, as I have -heretofore stated; but I heard no intimation of spontaneous combustion. -In fact, I was told that it was accidental. - -I wrote at once to Mr. David T. Day, of the Government Survey, who is -the present editor of this valuable work, asking his authority for such -statements concerning this mine as had never, so far as I knew, been -made before; though the mines have been described, or mentioned, in all -the preceding volumes of the same work, and were mentioned with approval -by Bailey Willis, Goodyear, and all other writers on the resources of -Washington Territory. Moreover, that I had spent weeks in the -neighborhood of the mines, and never heard anything of iron pyrites or -spontaneous combustion. - -Mr. Day replied that he had no personal knowledge on the subject; but -that those statements had been furnished him by Mr. James F. Jones, who -is connected with some mining operations along the Northern Pacific -Railway. - -I wrote also to Mr. F. H. Whitworth, of Seattle, calling his attention -to the above statements, and asking what was the truth of the matter. I -received his reply just in time to insert in this Report. I copy below -all that he says on the subject, which puts a different face on the -matter. - - [Sidenote: Correction by Mr. Whitworth.] - - "No, I do not think there is any of any consequence of iron pyrite - in the Newcastle mines. Nor do I consider that the fires in the - mine originated in the decomposition of the pyrites. The fire in - the mine originally started in the 'gob,' close to the furnace used - for ventilation, and where the ashes of the furnace were thrown. - Therefore, I have always believed that the fire was not spontaneous - in its origin. The fire originated in the upper water level 'lift.' - But it was led down into the second and third 'lifts' by carelessly - breaking through the chain pillar, and thus letting the fire down. - Several years before the fire started in the mine, and about - three-quarters of a mile, or a mile, west of the point where it - started, by careless mining and drawing of pillars, there was a - 'squeeze,' and the mine heated; the result, I think, of the crush; - but the mine did not fire. While you were out here the mines were in - danger of firing, and when the cause was not the proximity of the - present fire--but that, too, I think, was brought on by reckless - mining. Running their 'breasts' 75 feet wide and more, and leaving - only skeleton pillars, a 'squeeze,' of course, resulted, and the - crushing produced the heat, and it did finally fire. The crushing - being so great that the top work came down to within five or six - inches of the bottom, you see easily producing crushing sufficient - to cause fire. - - "But the coal does fire outside spontaneously, or rather the slack - does, when it is piled in considerable quantities, and after a year - or more of exposure. The combustion in the slack piles usually - commences in the firing of the shaley cap rock, which is thrown in - with the slack as the rock disintegrates, or as that process goes on - with the 'nigger-heads' thrown into the slack pile. And yet I feel - satisfied that the slack piles fire when there appears to be almost - none of the rock or 'nigger-head' in it. Two conditions, I think, - are required: first, that the slack particles be small, and second, - that large quantities of water be present. And I have supposed the - heat and firing was caused by changing of the conditions; small - particles of slack by disintegration to much smaller particles. - - "And yet it may be possible that there may be sulphur in the form of - pyrite present in sufficient quantity to do its work. Very - semi-occasionally, very seldom, I have seen in the sulphur streaks - some slight indications of pyrite; but generally the sulphur - streaks, or balls, seem to be composed almost entirely of sand, with - very little sulphur, and some coaly matter. - - "The coal never has fired on shipboard. - - "I remember that, several years, ago Mr. Howard, of the O. I. Co., - had collected and stored in his yard in San Francisco, Cal., in one - pile, several thousand tons of Newcastle coal, and was carrying it - for some time in stock, and that he complained that his coal was - heating, and feared fire. Since then they [have not] stowed in such - large piles, nor carried stock so long. - - "No, sir; the sulphur that we rooted [out] at Gilman was not in form - of pyrite, nor have I seen any so far. I do not fear spontaneous - combustion, because in the Newcastle, when it has occurred, it has - resulted from carelessness." - -This statement from Mr. Whitworth is certainly satisfactory on the main -point, namely, that there is nothing in this suggestion which need -diminish the reputation of the Newcastle coal as a stocking and shipping -coal. - -In 1884, Mr. Jones (the same man) made a special report to Governor -Squire on the coals of Washington Territory, in which he describes the -Newcastle coal, speaking of it most highly, and saying nothing of -spontaneous combustion. He uses the following language concerning the -Newcastle coal: "The coal is taken from three beds, and is commercially -known as the 'Seattle lignite,' having a bright lustre and good -fracture. It is a good and choice fuel for steam generating and for -domestic use. The condition of the coal adds much to its value." - - [Sidenote: Gilman Mines.] - -_d. The Squak Creek, Raging River, and Snoqualmie Group._--These are not -all in the same hydrographic basin, but they are considered together -because they are the coals which will be reached by the Seattle, Lake -Shore and Eastern Railroad. A great outcrop of coal seams occurs in the -valley of Squak Creek in the mountain spur which lies between Squak and -the Newcastle mines. These seams are now being opened by the Seattle -Coal and Iron Company, and are known as "The Gilman Mines." - - [Sidenote: Structure of Squak Mountain.] - -The geological structure of the Squak Mountain and its coal seams is -peculiar. With all their local irregularities, the general trend of the -coal-bearing rocks in Washington Territory is north and south; so -determined by the line of the Cascade Mountains, which is the main axis -of elevation, with numerous subordinate and parallel axes. But on Squak -Mountain we find the whole group of rocks and coal seams whirled at -right angles to the general line. In other words, their general -direction is east and west, instead of north and south, and the rocks -lie in regular order against their central axis, dipping northward at a -high angle, and showing no fault, so far as I know, except, possibly, a -vertical fracture somewhere in the mountain, as suggested by a change of -38 deg. in the strike at a point about one mile west of the outcrop on -Squak. If the fracture exists, it does not follow that there is any -serious dislocation. These coal seams are thus carried almost squarely -across the spur from Squak Creek to Coal Creek, or from the Gilman Mines -to the Newcastle Mines. - -The simple explanation is, that, in the upheaval of the country, the -Squak Mountain was made by a cross axis of elevation which runs east and -west, or at right angles with the Cascade Mountains. Its metamorphic -core shows itself along the crest of the mountain. - - [Sidenote: Peculiar advantages for mining possessed by the Gilman - Mines.] - -The part of the mountain which holds the coal seams is a high spur which -puts off at right angles northward from the crest or backbone, and -continues to Lake Washington, a distance of five miles. At the point -where the spur leaves the backbone, it may be 1,000 or 1,200 feet high, -and it declines gradually to the lake, and then makes a bluff -shore-line. On the east side of the spur on Squak Creek it is steep, -whilst on the west side, next Newcastle, it drops off more gradually. -This difference of grade occasions a great difference in the economy of -mining on the two sides. On the east, or Squak Creek side, the ends of -the seams are boldly presented, showing in diagonal parallel lines -extending from the top of the spur to the creek level, an average -exposure of, say, 900 feet in elevation. Here the entries are being -driven in horizontally near the water level, and the future progress of -the mining will be inward and upward instead of downward and sidewise, -as at Newcastle. The entries will all be on the horizontal line crossing -the seams. The extreme distance, 1,300 feet. The length of the seams on -the company's land is about two miles. Depth below water level, -indefinite. - -No shipments have yet been made from Squak Creek, Raging River, or -Snoqualmie Mountain, but active developing work has been in progress -since September last at the Gilman Mines (forty miles from Seattle), and -shipping will begin shortly. A switch of only 600 yards in length is -required from the main line of railway to reach the outcrop of the coal, -and there is every natural advantage for mining. - - [Sidenote: Seattle Coal and Iron Company.] - - [Sidenote: Seven seams.] - - [Sidenote: Details.] - -The Seattle Coal and Iron Company own this property, which consists of -1,300 acres underlaid by seven coal seams, five of which will be mined -ultimately, three in the beginning. I was able to examine three seams -which will be mined at first, and give the following details. - -Top Seam, No. 4, descending: - - Roof, rich Bituminous Black Slate, - containing streaks of-- FT. INS. - Coal 2 3 - Bone 0 1-1/2 - Coal 0 7 - Slate, variable 0 0-1/2 - Coal 0 11 - Clay 0 0-1/2 - Coal 2 0 - Clay, variable 0 1-3/4 - Coal 1 1 - Clay, mining 0 3 - Coal 1 1 - ---------- - Total, good 6 ft. 3-1/4 ins. - - [Sidenote: Good coal.] - -This is a good seam of coal, five feet six inches of which can be -depended on for shipping. The coal is dull-black in color, and easily -mined. The bottom is soft sandstone. Overlying the roof-slate, is -sandstone. The seam here is said to be one foot thicker than it is at -Newcastle. - - [Sidenote: Another good coal seam.] - -Seam No. 2 has been uncovered by the diggings on the railroad, and -happens to be at an - - [Illustration: COAL-BUNKERS OF THE SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN - RAILWAY, ON SEATTLE HARBOR.] - - -unfortunate place for showing the coal. A stump, partly silicified, with -part of its bark lignified, had been taken out of the coal bed, and on -each side of it was a tapering band of "Nigger-head," tapering from -eight inches at the stump to nothing at the distance of five feet six -inches from the stump. Selecting an average place, I got the following -section, descending: - - Good roof of Argilaceous Sandstone. FT. INS. - Bone 0 1 - Coal 0 6 - Nigger-head, local 0 5 - Coal 1 10 - Coal, sulphurous 0 3 - Coal 1 3 - Bone 0 0-1/2 - Coal 2 0 - Black slate floor. ---------- - Total 6 ft. 4-1/2 ins. - -Judging from this outcrop, which I suspect does not do full justice to -the bed, at least six feet of merchantable lignitic coal may be depended -on from this seam. - - [Sidenote: And another.] - -Andrew's bed could only be seen at a point 200 feet above the railroad. -It is nearest to the metamorphic axis of the mountain, and hence is the -bottom seam in the group. It is said to be wanting at Newcastle. The -coal is in two benches, descending: - -UPPER BENCH. - - Slate roof: FT. INS. - Coal 0 5 - Bone 0 0-1/16 - Coal 0 4 - Bone 0 3 - Coal 1 8 - Pyrite 0 1-1/2 - Coal 1 2 - Slate 0 5 - Coal 4 4 - ---------- - Total 8 ft. 8-9/16 ins. - -LOWER BENCH. - - FT. INS. - Fire-clay 0 6 - Coal 1 4 - Clay 0 1 - Coal 0 4 - Clay 0 0-1/2 - Coal 1 1 - Bone 0 1 - Coal 1 9 - ---------- - Total 4 ft. 8-1/2 ins. - -The lower bench would probably be neglected for the present, but the -upper bench is worthy of immediate development. The coal is of good -quality. Perhaps on analysis it would be classed with bituminous coals, -although the woody structure is discernible in places. It burns freely. -The outcrop of this bed is visible lower down the creek in a crushed -condition. - - [Sidenote: Large body of valuable coal.] - -My visit was rather premature for a proper study of the group; but there -can be no doubt that there is here a large body of valuable coal. The -quantity is estimated by the mining engineer, Mr. Whitworth, at -10,500,000 tons. I saw no other coal beds in the territory so favorably -situated for mining and loading. Of course, coal standing at an angle of -forty degrees cannot be mined so cheaply as if it were horizontal; but -all the mines in Washington Territory must contend with this -disadvantage, and in all cases coming under my observation, except this -one, the mining had to be done on the down grade, which involved much -hoisting, pumping, bad air, etc., which can be avoided at the Gilman -Mines. - -An incidental advantage, also, is that the Squak Valley furnishes any -amount of timber for building, propping, railroad ties, etc., and when -more generally cultivated, a superabundance of agricultural products. -The experience of Newcastle, and the rapid growth of the market, -indicate that these mines may be enlarged in their operations, almost -without limit. - - [Sidenote: Washington Mines.] - -Washington Mines, on one of the upper branches of Squak Creek, show the -outcroppings of three seams of lignite coal, dipping S. of W. I did not -visit this place, but was informed that a company, known as the -Washington Coal Company, was engaged in cutting these seams; but I am -not informed as to what are their prospects. - - [Sidenote: Raging River coals.] - -The Raging River Coals. Six miles east of Gilman Mines, where the -railroad enters the Raging River Valley, is found another group of coal -seams, older than the Squak coals, and perhaps corresponding in age with -the Franklin and Black Diamond coals, though apparently more bituminous -than they. Raging River is about twelve miles long, and the railroad -first approaches it about midway its length. There are indications of -local metamorphism, if not intrusion, visible in the rocks between Squak -Creek and Raging River, and this is further indicated by an outcrop of -anthracite at the north end of the coal seams, within a mile of the -road. Mr. Whitworth represents this anthracite seam as five feet thick, -but crushed and fragile. Its structure is laminated, and it breaks into -small cubes. He spoke, also, of another seam of anthracite high up on -Raging River, three feet thick, with three inches slate six inches from -the top. He mined in on this for thirty feet without observing any -change. The outcrop of this group of coal seams extends from near the -line of the railroad, up the west side of the valley, parallel with the -river, and about a mile from it, and lying in high hills. This coal -property is also owned by the Seattle Coal and Iron Company. The -principal mining camp is near the head of the valley, ten miles above -Falls City, six miles above the line of railway. Here I saw the coal -seams, which had been uncovered without having been cut into -sufficiently to determine fully their character. One seam is open in a -ravine, half way up the mountain, but most of them near the top, at an -elevation of about 800 feet above the river. There are at least six -seams, and if the one on the mountain side be a different seam, there -are seven. The coal generally is of good quality: bituminous, with -cubical fracture; but its value is greatly diminished by numerous slate -partings, and some of the seams are too thin for profitable mining. The -dip is to the southwest at high angles: about eighty degrees on the -mountain side--less in the top seams. - - [Sidenote: Details.] - -The seam on the mountain side showed a total thickness of seven feet -with sandstone over and under; but of this there was only about 2 feet 8 -inches of good coal in a body, and the rest coal and slate interleaved. -Near the top of the mountain there are six seams open near a rivulet, -and quite near together. Reaching the top of the mountain, I found the -upper opening (geologically the under opening), No. 1, to contain about -two feet of good black coal, with one slate parting of an inch thick. - -No. 2. This seam shows a total thickness of eight feet, but it contains -so many slate partings that I could not estimate the bed highly. - -No. 3. Here I saw fifteen inches of coal, with slate partings. - -No. 4. An irregular bed, four to seven feet in thickness, crushed, and -probably dislocated, and so slaty as to be of doubtful value. - -No. 5. Another crushed and irregular exposure, four to six feet thick. -The coal looks better, and promises to be a good seam when found in its -natural state. - -No. 6. A two-foot seam resembling No. 1. - -Mr. Whitworth furnished me the following details of an opening near the -camp on Raging River, which was not in a condition to be seen during my -visit, but which has since been gone in upon for about fifteen feet. -From bed-rock, ascending: - - FT. INS. - Clay 0 2 - Coal, crushed 0 5 - Black bone 0 1 - Coal, crushed 0 11 - Black bone 0 1 - Coal, hard 0 6 - Sand rock 0 3 - Coal, good 0 10 - Bone 0 2 - Coal, good 0 6 - Bone 0 1-1/2 - Coal, good 0 6 - Bone 0 1 - Coal, crushed 0 36 - Clay and rock (diminishing) 4 6 - Coal, crushed 3 0 - Strike, north, 76-1/2 deg. east. - Dip 22 deg. to south. - -Mr. Whitworth says that the coal improved as he went in, and he is quite -hopeful about this seam. But his record reads to me like the description -of a slide; still it may not be so. - -The show upon the whole, as seen by me, was not satisfactory--and yet -the beds might possibly improve inward; and if the coal should coke -well, it might pay to wash it; as could easily be done at Raging River. - - [Sidenote: Snoqualmie Mountain Coal Group.] - -The Snoqualmie Coal Group outcrops some hundreds of feet up the west -side of Snoqualmie Mountain, and about three miles southwest of Hop -Ranch. The outcrop has been traced perhaps one mile. There are five -seams here running north and south with the strike of the mountain -rocks. The seams dip west at an angle of 45 deg., _i.e._, away from the axis -of the mountain. - - [Sidenote: Details.] - - [Sidenote: Good coking coal.] - -Seam No. 3 is the third seam from the bottom. A side entry had been -driven in on the coal for 60 feet, but water now barred the entrance and -prevented a thorough scrutiny of the seam. Its thickness was about 3 -feet 6 inches, of which there was a band of lignitic coal of -three-quarters of an inch near the top, and five inches of the same near -the bottom. The weathered outcrop of this, as of the coal-beds of -Washington Territory generally, had a brownish hue, but the fresh -surfaces showed a good black bituminous coal. It lies firm and regular -in its bed. When dug and handled, it goes to small pieces, and may -generally be crushed to powder in the hand; which, of itself, is no bad -sign of a good coking coal. - -Seam No. 4, the second seam from the bottom, descending: - - FT. INS. - Roof, Slate 2 0 - Bone 2 0 - Coal 0 6 - Fine-grained Sandstone, average 2 2 - Natural Coke 0 6 - Bituminous Shale 0 6 - Coal 4 2 - Bottom, Sandstone. - -The coal of this seam is soft, black and lustrous. An entry was driven -in 50 feet, which required much propping, the roof being bad. At the end -of this distance we came squarely against a wall of sandstone, showing a -fault. At this point six inches of the top coal is thrown up vertically, -which showed that the seam thus far had dropped, and that the -continuation was to be looked for at a higher level. Mining upward -through the soft material, the coal had been again struck at an -elevation of 16 feet, but not the full thickness of the seam, and not in -its true position; but after following it upward 4 feet more the seam -was found in its natural state. - -There seems to be no slate in this seam, but occasionally there is found -in it a ball of "nigger-head," or hard sulphurous matter, from the size -of a man's head down. - - [Sidenote: Also good coking coal.] - -An experiment of coking this coal in a small pit at the mouth of this -bank was made by Mr. Kirke and his coal-bank manager, with as -satisfactory results as could be expected from so imperfect a trial. I -found pieces of the coke lying near, and saw better samples which have -been brought from here. While, of course, the coke thus made is not the -best quality, it certainly promises well. - - [Sidenote: Large and valuable bed.] - -Seam No. 2, descending: - - Roof, fine-grained Sandstone, under - which is seven inches Black Slate. FT. INS. - Coal 0 6 - Slate 2 0 - Coal 0 7 - Slate 0 4 - Coal 0 5 - Slate 0 5 - Argillaceous and Ferruginous Rock 1 7 - Coal 0 1-1/2 - Bone 0 5 - Coal (main bench) of good quality 7 0 - Nigger-head 0 2 - Coal 1 0 - Slate 0 1-1/2 - Coal, good 0 6 - Slate and Clay 0 7 - Lignite (brown coal) 2 1 - Bituminous Slate 1 8 - Coal 0 1/2 - Nigger-head 0 4-1/2 - Clay and Bony Slate 0 7 - Coal 0 1 - Nigger-head 0 1-1/2 - Coal 0 1/16 - Bituminous Slate 1 2 - Coal 0 1 - Slate 0 7 - Coal 0 7 - Slate and Sandstone bottom. --------------- - Total 23 ft. 1-9/16 in. - - [Sidenote: Another good bed.] - -Seam No. 1 is only partially exposed, the workings having caved in; but -enough of the seam was visible to show that it was a bright, soft, -friable, bituminous coal, of good quality, containing some slate and -nigger-head. Its fracture would be called _dicey_ by some geologists, -because it breaks readily into small cubes, even smaller than dice. The -seam is probably about five feet in thickness. - - [Sidenote: Geological relations.] - -This group probably corresponds geologically with the Kirke Mines, on -Green River; but, judging by the eye, it is a more bituminous coal and -better suited to coking. The large bed here may correspond with one of -the large beds at the Kirke Mines. - -I fear that faults are numerous in the coal rocks of this group, which, -of course, would add to the expense of mining. But if, as expected, it -furnishes a good smelting coke, the field will be extremely valuable -from its contiguity to the magnetic ores of the Cascade Mountains and -the scarcity of coking coals. - -This property was for sale when I visited it, and would have been sold -but for a claim of ownership set up by the Northern Pacific Railroad, -which, however, in the opinion of good lawyers, had no foundation. - - [Sidenote: This the bottom group.] - -This is the bottom group of the Washington Territory coal field. It will -be seen that, taking the Gilman group, the Raging River group, and the -Snoqualmie group on one line, and the Cedar River, Carbon River, and -Green River group on another line, it may be fairly claimed that there -are at least fifteen working seams of three feet and upward in the -Washington Territory coal field. - -_e. The Yakima and Wenatchie Group._ This field lies on the east flank -of the Cascade Mountains, on the waters of the Yakima and its -tributaries, Cle-ellum and Teanaway. It is believed to extend also into -the Wenatchie Valley, although the area here is probably disconnected -from the Yakima area. I purposely refrained from visiting this region, -and for my statements I am indebted chiefly to Bailey Willis, F. H. -Whitworth, Charles Burch, and Mr. Jamieson of the Kirke Mines. - - [Sidenote: Yakima or Roslyn coal field.] - -The Yakima area lies north of the Yakima River, near to the Northern -Pacific Railroad, and to the projected line of the Seattle, Lake Shore -and Eastern Railway, and extends about sixty miles east and west, and -six miles north and south. Its dip is gentle, say twelve to twenty -degrees. It holds three coal seams of 2 feet 6 inches, and 5 feet and 5 -feet respectively. There is not much evidence of fracture in any part of -the field. The total thickness of the coal-bearing rocks is estimated by -Bailey Willis to be 1,000 feet. This is evidently the lower part of the -coal series, the upper part having been carried away. The best seam is -mined at Roslyn, four miles north of the Northern Pacific Railroad, in -the interest of that railroad. - -The seam here furnishes upward of four feet of good coal. The coal is -bituminous, dull black, firm, and free burning. Mr. Jamieson thinks it -will not make good coke. Others, however, think that it will, and these -are supported partially by the laboratory test in Washington City, D. C. -(See Table of Coal Analyses, page 107.) It is called in the table Roslyn -coal. - -This coal is used chiefly in the locomotives; but the popular demand for -it is very great in the plateau country of East Washington. - - [Sidenote: Coal on the Wenatchie.] - -I have no knowledge of the coal on Wenatchie River except what I -obtained from Mr. Burch, who says that there are two seams of coal -exposed in that valley, one of eight feet and one of three feet. The -coal-bearing rocks extend for thirty-five miles up the river, and have a -width of ten miles. - - [Sidenote: Coal under the Great Bend country.] - -The coal is reported by Mr. Burch to appear east of the Columbia River, -opposite to the fields just described, and to disappear under the -basalt. If so, here is a resource for the future. Concerning the -importance of this coal field to the Seattle, Lake Shore and Eastern -Railway, I will speak in another connection. - - [Sidenote: The first mining on Bellingham Bay.] - -_f. Bellingham Bay, Skagit River, and other Coal Fields._ The first -shipping of coal from Washington Territory was done from the Seahome -Mines, on Bellingham Bay, Puget Sound, about twenty-five miles south of -the Canada line. The mines were very badly managed; they took fire on -several occasions. The coal was of the lignitic grade, but not of the -best quality, and when other mines of better coal were opened the -Bellingham Bay mines were closed. It is reported that coking coal has -been found some distance back from the bay. - - [Sidenote: Coal on Skagit River.] - -Coal has also been found on Skagit River, which, I suspect, from a -sample which I saw and from what I heard (some of it), is good, and -possibly might coke well. One of the coal properties is held by A. Ford -and others. The following description is furnished by Mr. Norman B. -Kelly. - -It is found about three miles north of the Skagit River, and about five -miles from Sedro. The country is hilly. There are at least six or eight -coal seams, perhaps more. Those examined run from eighteen inches to -thirty inches, and are thought to be clean coal. The seams lie between -sandrocks. The outcrops begin near the level of the valley, and continue -in a series to an altitude of 550 feet above the valley. The highest -outcrops are those of the lowest seams geologically. The strike is north -sixty degrees west. At the foot of the hill, the seams dip forty-five -degrees to the southwest, but the angle becomes steeper on the mountain -side, until finally they are vertical. All the outcrops are within 1,500 -feet horizontal distance. Blacksmiths use the coal and pronounce it -equal to Cumberland. It cokes readily in the open fire; burns with a -bright, hot, but small flame, and seems to leave but little ash. - -Of course, the thinness of these seams is an objection. There is coal, -also, upon the south side of the river; but there has been but little -development in this field. An analysis of this coal is given in the -table preceding, but I cannot say from what seam the sample was derived. - -The following analysis of coal of the Crystal Mine, near Sterling, is -said to have been made by Mr. Wm. G. Tenne, assayer, of Portland, -Oregon: - - Coke 71.31 - Combustible gases 23.17 - Ash 5.31 - Moisture .21 - -A very fine showing. - - [Sidenote: Coal south of Puget Sound.] - -It has long been known that there are considerable areas of coal south -and southwest of Puget Sound. But they have not been very highly -esteemed, the coals being lignite of not the best quality. There are at -least two seams of seven to twelve feet thickness, and they lie at an -angle of five degrees, with good roof and floor. Some effort is now -making on Skookumchuck and Chehalis rivers to develop these seams. - - [Sidenote: Total shipments of coal from Washington Territory.] - -Governor Semple, in his report for 1887, gives as the total shipment for -the year ending June 30, 1887, the amount 525,705 tons. And he gives as -the total output of coal from all the Washington Territory mines from -the beginning of shipments to June 30, 1887: - - MINES. TONS. - Newcastle 1,308,178 - Franklin 46,272 - Black Diamond 148,418 - Renton 35,015 - Talbot 10,000 - Cedar River 64,816 - Carbonado 402,207 - South Prairie 139,792 - Wilkeson 10,372 - Bucoda 4,550 - Roslyn 40,987 - Bellingham Bay (estimated) 250,000 - Clallam Bay 500 - ---------- - Total 2,461,108 - -I have now given a sketch of all the coal mines and coal areas of -Washington Territory, and will conclude with a few words on the coal of -Vancouver's Island. - - [Sidenote: Coal on Vancouver's Island.] - -_g._ _Coal Seams in British Columbia._ The productive coal field is on -Vancouver's Island, on the east side of the Gulf of Georgia. There are -three mines in operation as given below: - -ANNUAL OUTPUT. - - SHORT TONS. - Nanaimo Colliery 112,761 - Wellington Colliery 185,846 - East Wellington Colliery 28,029 - -This coal is marketed chiefly in California. The coal is lignitic; and -yet it is said to coke well. It is also good stocking coal. The beds -dip from 5 deg. to 30 deg. southward. The cost of transportation to San -Francisco is about the same as from Seattle, and the cost of delivering -on board ship about the same as from the Newcastle mines. The tariff of -75 cents per ton on foreign coal is regarded with satisfaction by the -coal men of Washington Territory. The repeal of this tariff would -inflict a heavy blow upon the mining industry of the Territory. - - [Sidenote: The Iron Ores.] - -II. IRON ORE.--The iron ores of Washington Territory consist of Bog ore, -Brown ore (Limonite), some Red, or Specular ore (Hematite), and Magnetic -ore (Magnetite). The bog ore has been found in considerable quantities -underlying the flats bordering Puget Sound, and has been worked in a -furnace on Bellingham Bay. These ores, no doubt, come from the -decomposition of the limonites, the magnetites and the basaltic rocks of -the high lands, especially on the Cascade Mountains. These Bellingham -Bay ores generally have an excess of phosphorus, and yield about 42 per -cent. of metallic iron. Brown ore is reported on the Skagit River, -sufficiently abundant, perhaps, but not containing more than 40 per -cent. metallic iron. I saw a remarkable deposit of brown ore on the -Willamette, near Portland, Oregon. It is a horizontal stratum varying -from 4 to 20 feet in thickness, lying between masses of basalt. It has -been worked in the Oswego furnace, but yielded only about 40 per cent. -metallic iron. I did not see any specular ore in place in Washington -Territory, but saw samples, said to have been brought from near the -Middle Fork of Snoqualmie River. - - [Sidenote: The great magnetic ore beds of Cascade Mountains.] - - [Sidenote: Resembles the Cranberry ore deposits.] - -But unquestionably the most important, as well as the largest, are the -magnetic ore beds on the Cascade Mountains. These ores are found 1,000 -to 1,500 feet above the chief water-courses on those high ridges and -peaks which make up the Cascade Range along the headwaters of the -Snoqualmie, on the west side of the mountain, and of the Yakima on the -east flank of the mountain. These ores are underlaid by syenite and -quartzite, and overlaid by limestone. The ore itself is found in -conditions similar to that of the Cranberry ore in the Unaka Mountains -of North Carolina; that is, it lies in pockets of various sizes in -hornblendic, porphyritic and epidotic rocks. - - [Sidenote: Guye Mine on Mount Logan.] - -I visited two exposures of this ore, one on Mount Logan and the other on -Mount Denny. These are only a mile or two from the line of the railroad. -On Mount Logan there was only one large outcrop of iron-bearing rocks, -but float was seen at numerous points on the mountain. The main exposure -showed an ore-bearing rock, presenting a horizontal front some sixty -feet in length, and forty to fifty feet in height or thickness. At one -place a considerable area in this space seemed to be pure ore. For the -rest, the pockets were smaller, and, of course, the amount of rock -proportionally larger. What is to be found on going in from the surface -can never be told in advance in ore beds of this sort. In working the -great mine of Cranberry, North Carolina, the largest body of ore was -reached 100 to 200 feet from the surface. - -This bed of ore is known as The Summit, or Guye Mine. Its elevation is -1,250 feet above the grade of the Lake Shore Railroad, and about 1,000 -feet above the small stream at the foot of the mountain. There would be -no difficulty in building an inclined plane from the ore bank to the -small valley below. The snow in winter might interfere with mining. - -Ascending the mountain above the main exposure, I found what seemed to -be another level of iron ore 100 feet higher; but possibly it may be the -same bed displaced. Still higher appeared to be a third level of ore, -and higher still, I observed a little float ore at a point nearly 2,000 -feet above the grade of the railroad, on what may be called the summit -of Mount Logan, at a point which my barometer made 4,700 feet above -Puget Sound. - - [Sidenote: Denny Mine.] - -The Denny Mine is on a different mountain, somewhat farther to the west, -but about the same distance from the railroad. It is reached also by a -narrow valley from which a steep ascent of nearly 1,100 feet is made to -the main exposure, which shows an edge of pure fine-grained magnetite, -about twenty feet thick, with limestone above, and also beneath, -apparently. Fragments of epidote, porphyry and flinty quartzite lay -around. The limestone did not show so large here as on Mount Logan. The -ore dips steeply toward the south, and seemed to encrust the mountain -for a distance of, perhaps, 225 feet, but with a somewhat broken -surface. It then passed with its limestone under quartzite cliffs which -crest the mountain. The bed might have been followed around the -mountain, where it is said to show at a number of places. It seemed to -pass into a matrix of chert. - - [Sidenote: Chair Peak, or Kelly Mine.] - -I did not visit the Chair Peak, or Kelly Mine, which is some miles -distant; but I conversed with probably every man who ever saw it, some -half a dozen, including Mr. Whitworth, who made a survey of the -property. It is reported as probably the largest and purest of all the -deposits of magnetic ore, and lies at about the same height on the -mountains. This ore would come out by way of the Middle Fork of -Snoqualmie. - - [Sidenote: Middle Fork Mines.] - -I did not visit Guye's other mine, which lies high, perhaps 3,000 feet -above Middle Fork. Mr. Guye represents it as similar in character to the -bed elsewhere, with the addition of some brown and red ore. The other -deposits mentioned I received no description of. - - [Sidenote: All easily reached from Seattle, Lake Shore and Eastern - Railway.] - -None of these mines have been developed beyond the uncovering of a face. -As yet there is no furnace for smelting them, and no means provided for -bringing them off the mountains. There is no difficulty about reaching -them with spur railroads and inclined planes. It has occurred to me as -possible that a narrow gauge railroad might reach all of these mines, -without heavy grades, by starting at the highest point of the Lake Shore -road and following the divides from mountain to mountain. This, however, -can only be determined by a special reconnaissance. - - [Sidenote: Cle-ellum ore beds.] - -There are large deposits of iron ore also on the east side of the -Cascade Mountains, not far from the crest line, on the waters of the -Cle-ellum River. Three distinct beds are reported. They are all in the -valley of the Cle-ellum River. The upper bed is situated about eight -miles above Cle-ellum Lake, on the main and east fork of the Cle-ellum -River. This bed has been described to me by Mr. Whitworth and Mr. Burch. -The distance from the Northern Pacific Railroad is twenty-five miles, -following the Cle-ellum valley. It is within sixteen miles of the most -distant location made of the Seattle, Lake Shore and Eastern Railway; -and by another route which has been spoken of, this railroad would pass -close to the ore bed. Mr. Whitworth says concerning it: "The ledge is -well defined, and is traced and located about two miles, its course -being nearly north and south. It is apparently from forty to sixty feet -in width, and pitches at about an angle of 20 deg. to the west. The casing -rock is porphyry. The deposit is evidently extensive. The ore appears -rich, is magnetic, and is reported to assay from 56-1/2 to 66 per cent. -I obtained samples of the rock, from which satisfactory tests can be, no -doubt, obtained." - -The elevation of the iron ore outcrop is estimated at 3,000 feet, which -would place it nearly on a level with the summit of Snoqualmie Pass; but -it is only about 200 feet above the local water-level. - -Mr. Burch says concerning this ore bed, which has now been bought by -Mr. Kirke for the Moss Bay Company, that the strike of the bed is -northeast, whilst the outcrop runs northwest. The ore is in five or more -separate beds, each bed being on an average forty to fifty feet thick, -and the beds separated by rock. The ore can be followed but a short -distance along the strike. - - [Sidenote: Burch's ore bed.] - -Burch's iron ore bed approaches the Cle-ellum River about four miles -below the Kirke bed, and extends in a northeast direction to the -headwaters of Boulder Creek, a distance of five miles. The outcrop -crosses three high ridges. The dip is south, at an angle of 45 deg.. The -width is at least twenty feet. A ferruginous limestone lies against the -ore on the south side. The limestone is 300 or 400 feet thick. It seems -to overlie the iron bed. Its outside or top layers are pure blue -limestone. - -A gray sandstone, rather soft, overlies the limestone, and over this -comes a coal-bearing rock in which are dykes of gray iron ore, some of -them standing out of the ground 80 or 100 feet. The magnetic iron ore is -associated with hornblende and quartzite. All rocks dip south. Mr. Burch -says that this ore resembles the Kirke ore, but has some of the -characteristics of hematite. Mr. Guye talks in the same way about his -iron ore on Middle Fork. - -At one point, not far from Cle-ellum River, a bed of gray iron ore -crosses the magnetic ore at right angles. This gray ore is not well -understood. It may be an altered copper lode. The main ore bed is more -strongly magnetic near the intersection than it is elsewhere. - -I may here remark that Mr. Burch reports considerable float of rich -magnetite on the shores of Lake Chelan. - - [Sidenote: Dudley ore bed.] - -I have no description of the Dudley iron ore bed, but it is said to be -large, and of the best quality. Its location is also in the Cle-ellum -valley, between Burch's bed and the lake, and within four or five miles -of the lake. This information I get through a letter written from -Cle-ellum to Mr. Whitworth. I have no personal knowledge of these -Cle-ellum beds. - - [Sidenote: Undoubtedly large beds of steel ores.] - -There can be no doubt as to the existence in the Cascade Mountains along -this line of superior iron ore in large quantities, the most of which is -suited to the manufacture of steel. - - [Sidenote: Of superior quality.] - -There can be no doubt as to the superior quality of the Snoqualmie iron -ores. Analysis shows that they rank with the best steel ores in their -large percentage of metallic iron and small admixture of deleterious -impurities. Of the following tables, the first gives all the reliable -analyses I could obtain of the ores of the Snoqualmie region of the -Cascade Mountains. Those reported from Mr. Kirke and Mr. Dewey are of -high authority. Those from Mr. Jenner are given in Governor Squire's -report for 1885, and are probably equally reliable. - -ANALYSES OF SNOQUALMIE IRON ORES. - - ----------+---------------+----------+----------+----------+----------- - Kind. | Locality. | Silica. | Metallic | Sulphur. |Phosphorus. - | | | Iron. | | - ----------+---------------+----------+----------+----------+----------- - | {Summit.| 1.30 | 71.17 | .00-1/2 | .04 - | Mt. { " | 2.73 | 68.56 | .02 | .03-1/2}[1] - Magnetite.| Logan { " | 2.23 | 69.40 | .00-3/4 | .03-1/2} - | { " | 1.87 | 70.18 | .01-1/4 | .03 } [2] - | { " | 1.67 | 67.00 | 0.05 | 0.02 } - | +----------+----------+----------+----------- - | Average | 1.96 | 69.26-1/5| .01-9/16| .03-1/5 - Bog | | | | | - Ironstone.| { | 9.37 | 45.50 | Traces | 0.08 } - | Middle{ | 6.03 | 64.50 | 0.05 | ---- } [2] - Micaceous.| Fork { |22.32 | 59.50 | 0.05 | Trace } - |(Guye).{ | 3.33 | 67.80 | 0.03 | Trace } - Hematite. | { |11.77 | 60.90 | 0.02 | Trace } - | | | | | - | { No. 1 | 2.72 | 69.39 | 0.042 | 0.035 - | Denny { No. 2 | 1.30 | 71.17 | 0.005 | 0.039 [3] - Magnetite.| Mt. { No. 3 | 2.73 | 68.56 | 0.019 | 0.035 - | { No. 4 | 4.02 | 67.17 | 0.041 | 0.031 - | { No. 5 | 2.23 | 69.40 | 0.008 | 0.035 - | { No. 6 | 1.87 | 70.18 | 0.013 | 0.031 - | +----------+----------+----------+----------- - | Average | 2.47-5/8 | 69.31-1/6| 0.021-1/3| 0.034-1/3 - ----------+---------------+----------+----------+----------+----------- - Authorities: - 1. Dewey (chemist). - 2. Reported by Kirke. - 3. Reported by Chas. K. Jenner, from a Philadephia chemist. - - [Sidenote: Proved by analysis to be unsurpassed, if equaled.] - -By way of comparison, I next introduce a table of analyses, which begins -with what Mr. Phineas Barnes, in his report on the steel industry of the -United States (1885), gives as a typical steel ore from the best -American mines. The second analysis gives the average of fourteen -analyses of the best Lake Superior steel ores. The third is a typical -steel ore from the Iron Mountain of Missouri. The fourth is the average -of all the analyses of the magnetic ores of the Snoqualmie Valley, which -name I give to them to distinguish them from similar ores on the east -side of the Cascade Mountains, of which I have no analyses: - - -COMPARATIVE ANALYSES OF STEEL ORES. - - ------------------+--------------+---------+-----------+----------- - |Metallic Iron.| Sulphur.|Phosphorus.| Silica. - ------------------+--------------+---------+-----------+----------- - Typical Steel Ore | 59.24-2/3 |.20-2/3 | .03-2/3 | 6.17-2/3 - Lake Superior | 68.48 | ---- | .053 | 2.07 - Iron Mountain | 65.500 |.016 | .040 | 5.750 - Snoqualmie | 68.80-8/13 |.023-4/13| .028-2/3 | 2.61-10/13 - ------------------+--------------+---------+-----------+----------- - -This showing places the Snoqualmie ores in the front rank of American -steel ores; indeed, it shows a little higher in metallic iron, and a -little lower in phosphorus, than any of the others. These analyses are, -of course, made from the ore proper; _i.e._, without any addition of the -matrix, or gangue-rock, in which the ores are imbedded. With all -magnetites of this type it is only in exceptional spots that much of the -ore can be gotten, free from the enclosing rock. Under ordinary -circumstances something like 20 per cent. of the ore sent to the furnace -will be gangue-rock. There is reason to hope, however, that ere long -there will be a practical method for separating the rock from the ore, -and at the same time getting rid of most of the sulphur. At Cranberry, -N. C., the ore is now roasted and stamped into small bits, and an -experiment has been made of passing the ore through a jigger, whereby -the hornblendic and other enclosing rocks were separated by the -pulsations of the water, as in coal washing. - - [Sidenote: Improved processes.] - -The Lackawanna Iron and Coal Company, Pennsylvania, has been separating -the ore from the rock with good results. The same has been done at Crown -Point, N. Y., Lion Mountain, near Plattsburg, N. Y., Negaunee, Mich., -and Beach Glen, N. J. - -The process is really one of concentration, in some respects similar to -that pursued with the refractory ores of the precious and base metals. -The ore is first calcined sufficiently to make it friable. It is then -crushed, by a Blake or other rock-breaker, and is finally sluiced, or -jigged, or both. The aim is to produce a Bessemer concentrate which -would yield 60 per cent. or more metallic iron, and at the same time get -rid of whatever phosphorus might be in the gangue-rock. In the best -experiments the object was more than accomplished. The concentrate -contained 63 per cent. of metallic iron, the middlings 55 per cent., and -the tailings 16 per cent. This experiment was made with a refractory -Adirondack magnetite, which was so intermixed with hornblende, quartz, -mica, etc., that the ore might be described as a hornblendic gneiss, -carrying a large proportion of magnetite. No doubt experience will teach -some way of saving the ore that is now wasted in the tailings. - -Thus we may hope to see removed in a short time the only practical -difficulty in working the crystalline magnetites, such as those of -Snoqualmie, and many others. - - - [Sidenote: Granite.] - -III. GRANITE, LIMESTONE AND MARBLE.--What is here called granite is -really syenite. It is found high on the mountains, associated, as -already intimated, with the magnetic iron ore, and with hard quartzite, -porphyry, epidote, hornblende, and limestone largely marbleized. This -group of rocks forms the core of the Cascade Mountains, and hence -underlies all the coal-bearing rocks to the westward. The group has been -assigned by some geologists to the Archaean age; but it is possible that -they are metamorphosed strata of the Silurian, or some subsequent -period. Some of this syenite has a large proportion of quartz, which -gives it a light appearance; but in other places the hornblende crystals -are of good size and in full proportion, and the feldspar is of the -orthoclase variety, which gives a mixture of three colors, and makes -fully as handsome a stone as the Quincy granite. - -Limestone is reported as existing in some of the islands in Puget Sound, -where it is burnt into lime; but I have met with no particular account -of it. - - [Sidenote: Marble and limestone.] - -The limestone and marble associated with the iron ore on the Cascade -Mountains has already been alluded to. It is of fine quality, very -abundant, and easily quarried. It will have great value for flux and -commercial lime. It is also beautiful in color, varying from the purest -white to blue, and mixtures of the two colors. In texture it is -sometimes exceedingly fine grained, and in others crystallized into a -true and beautiful marble, which, so far as can be judged by eye, would -be well adapted to both inside and outside finishing and statuary. On -Mount Logan the limestone deposit almost covers the mountain above the -lower line of the iron ore, and is so exposed as to be quarried with the -greatest ease. - -The same association of limestone in heavy beds with iron ore seems to -exist also on the Cle-ellum, as mentioned by Mr. Burch. This gentleman -spoke to me, also, of a very beautiful and easily burned limestone in -the Wenatchie Valley. Large beds of limestone also exist in connection -with the precious and base metals, which are next to be described. In -the Colville country limestone seems to abound. - - - [Sidenote: Precious metals on Cascade Mountains.] - -IV. THE PRECIOUS AND BASE METALS.--In the Cascade Mountains, and in the -mountains north of the plateau country of East Washington, and in the -Coeur d'Alene Mountains, within the border of Idaho, occur numerous -veins bearing gold, silver, copper, lead, sulphur and iron. Discoveries -on Cascade Mountain proper have been made on both sides, chiefly in the -region of the iron ore. Those at the Denny and Chair Peak mines have -been most spoken of. Professor Mason, of the "Rennselaer Polytechnic -Institute," Troy, New York, gives the following assay of two samples -sent from the Chair Peak claim of Kelly, Wilson & Co.: - - 1st. Silver 13.9 oz. per ton. - 2d. Silver 12.4 - Both 14% copper. - -Professor Price, of San Francisco, also assayed a sample from the same -vein. - - Silver $3.63 per ton. - - [Sidenote: On Cle-ellum River.] - -Metallic veins are found also in connection with iron ore on Cle-ellum -River. Mr. Burch reports a copper and silver lode, and also two lodes of -gold and silver, in this neighborhood. He reports the ores as high -grade, of good, workable thickness, and outcropping for several thousand -feet. There is a gray ore in the same region, the character of which has -not yet been determined. This has already been mentioned as lying close -to the iron ore, and may possibly be metamorphosed chalcopyrite. Mr. -Burch thinks that the silver ores will run from forty to eighty ounces, -while in some spots the richness is very extraordinary. The lead ore in -association ranges from fifteen to forty per cent. - - [Sidenote: Large copper vein in Stevens County.] - -The same gentleman, who is a resident of the Okinagane region, reports a -remarkable lode of copper ore running due south across Stevens County, -from the Canada line to the Columbia River. It shows a plain outcrop for -about forty miles. The vein carries both native and gray copper and a -small percentage of silver. - - [Sidenote: Precious metals on Methow River.] - -Reports, apparently authentic, are made of numerous other veins of metal -in the same region, particularly in the valley of the Methow River and -the valley of the Okinagane River. The Colville region, beginning fifty -miles north of Spokane Falls, is well known as a rich mining centre. - -What I know of these regions I learned from the oral or written -testimony of men who had seen what they described, and some of them -residents of the localities. - -The basin of the Methow River has been but little prospected, and -although I gathered many favorable items concerning the mineral deposits -there, I met but one man who had personally examined the country, and he -confirmed the favorable reports. He said the ores were similar to those -on the Okinagane, but were more abundant. - - [Sidenote: The rich mines of Okinagane.] - -The Okinagane country is well known, hundreds of men having been at work -there last summer, and some of its mines, particularly the Ruby and -Arlington, having become notable for their richness. Among my informants -are Mr. Burch and Mr. Thomas Lothian, who both reside on the Okinagane -River; and also Mr. J. E. Clayton, mining engineer, who made a -professional report on the country, which was printed in the Spokane -Falls _Review_. - -The mining district is on Conconnully Creek (misnamed Salmon River), -which enters Okinagane River from the northwest, about twenty miles from -its mouth. There are two wagon roads to the Conconnully, one from -Spokane Falls, with a branch from Sprague, distance 150 miles, on which -stages ran last summer. Another road starts from Ellensburg on the -Yakima, and is 195 miles long. With an expenditure of a few thousand -dollars on the channel of the Okinagane, the mouth of the Conconnully -could be reached from the Columbia by light-draught steamers, from which -a railway fifteen miles long would reach the mines. Mr. Burch says that -he and his father sounded the river, and also the Columbia, and that -steamers can start at Rock Island Rapids and go to the mouth of the -Conconnully, and, in flush water, can ascend the creek. Mr. Clayton -makes the same statement as to the river. The country rocks in the -mining districts are of the same character as those associated with the -iron ore on Mount Logan and the Denny Mountain--hard metamorphic and -plutonic rocks. - -The principal mineral lode is described by Mr. Clayton as "composed of -true quartz gangue carrying the silver ore in disseminated grains of -black sulphurets of silver, with some copper-silver glance, and a -brittle sulphuret, resembling tennantite, giving a dark, red, powdery -streak, approaching the characteristics of dark antimonial ruby silver. -In addition to this is found galena and zinc-blende." - -Assays made by Mr. Wm. H. Fuller, of Spokane Falls, gave for first-class -ore from this lode: Silver, $186.45, and gold, $4.50 = $190.95 value per -ton. Second-class ore assayed $34.16 silver and 45 cents gold. Mr. -Slater thinks that one-third of the vein will yield first-class ore. It -is a rich vein, averaging eight feet so far as opened. There are two or -three lodes in the district. Years will be required to ascertain their -limits. But all the indications point to large mining operations in the -Okinagane country as soon as the transportation can be supplied. - -My chief authority for the following statements concerning the Colville -region is Mr. Kearney, one of the firm of Kearney Brothers, owners of -the two largest mines of that country, namely, the Old Dominion and the -Daisy. I incorporate some statements also from two articles published in -the Spokane Falls _Review_, one by W. E. Sullivan, and the other by J. -B. Slater. - - [Sidenote: The mines in the Colville region.] - -The Colville region is the east end of Stevens County, the part lying -east of the Columbia River and north of Spokane Falls. Its chief town -(500 inhabitants) is called Colville, from the fort of that name which -was situated there. It is ninety-one miles north of Spokane Falls. -Between the two points there is almost a continuous valley of great -productiveness. The mineral region begins at Chewelah, fifty miles north -of Spokane Falls, and continues at least forty miles north of Colville. -Granite, porphyry, and limestone are found here, as in the other -metalliferous regions. In some cases the ores are in slate and quartz; -in others, in granite and porphyry; in still others, limestone. Some of -the ores are iron carbonates, carrying silver, gold, and lead in paying -quantities. In other cases, as at the Old Dominion mines, the ore exists -in the form of a chloride and black sulphate in limestone walls. - -Rich mines of argentiferous galena were discovered last summer three or -four miles east of Chewelah, and vigorously developed at numerous -points. Seven miles west of Chewelah shafts were sunk on a rich vein, -three feet wide, of gray copper and silver chloride. The Eagle Mine was -the first discovery, and is the most noted. It is black metal, -containing galena, silver, and gold. Altogether, there are said to be -two hundred mining claims, more or less developed, in the district -around Chewelah. - - [Sidenote: The Old Dominion Mine.] - -The mines in the Colville district are very numerous. The Old Dominion -Mine is six miles east of the town. It is on an 8-foot fissure vein, -which assays 150 ounces silver, 25 per cent. galena, and $7.00 gold to -the ton of ore. There are ten mines in the Old Dominion group; and Mr. -Slater states that the $80,000 worth of silver reported as the product -of Washington Territory in 1886, all went from the Old Dominion group. - - [Sidenote: The Daisy Mine.] - -The Daisy Mine is twenty-four miles southward from Colville. The vein -here is 25 feet wide, with a streak of ore in it 18 inches wide, which -widens to 11 feet 8 inches at the bottom of the shaft. This shaft is 127 -feet deep. Seventy-five feet from the top of the shaft, a tunnel has -been run off horizontally in five feet of ore. The assay reported for -the Daisy ore gives silver 50 ounces, gold $2.00, lead 30 per cent., -and iron 25 per cent. It is self-fluxing. - - [Sidenote: Young America Company.] - -Sixteen miles and a half northward from Colville, near the Columbia -River, a rich discovery of silver-lead ore has been made by the Young -America Consolidated Company. The vein averages five feet, runs -northeast and southwest, and has been shafted through ore to the depth -of 180 feet. A test showed 90 ounces of silver and 40 per cent. of lead. -A number of other openings have been made on the lode. - - [Sidenote: The Little Dalles.] - -The Little Dalles, thirty-eight miles north of Colville, is another -neighborhood rich in mineral. The ores are galena and lead carbonate, -with silver. On Bruce Creek, and east of Bruce Creek, twelve miles north -of Colville, are similar veins. A smelter of twenty tons capacity has -been erected at Colville, which affords encouragement to mining; but it -is not satisfactory to the largest owners. Smelting should be done on a -large scale, and in a centre of large business. There can be no doubt -that here, also, will be a region of great activity and large production -as soon as it is connected by rail with Spokane Falls. - -I have indicated the mining localities on the map accompanying this -Report as nearly as my information would allow, but only an -approximation is expected. - - [Sidenote: Coeur d'Alene Mines.] - -The region that just now is attracting most attention is the Coeur -d'Alene country, because the mines are more developed; and they are more -developed because the miners have better transportation than exists in -the Colville and the other mineral regions. Some thousands of men were -at work last season on the streams entering the lake, particularly on -the South Fork of the Coeur d'Alene River. - -At Spokane Falls I was able to get reliable information concerning the -region, and would mention as chief among my authorities Mr. S. S. -Glidden, at one time well known in Alabama as an able iron manufacturer, -now proprietor of the Tiger Mine, on Canyon Creek, which empties into -one branch of Coeur d'Alene River. By reference to the map, the -following description may be readily understood: - -The Coeur d'Alene Mountains, River and Lake are in Idaho Territory, -near the line of Washington Territory. The drainage is through Spokane -River into the Columbia. The distance from the nearest point on the lake -to Spokane Falls is twenty-five miles. The Coeur d'Alene River has two -branches, on both of which mining has been done, but most largely on -the South Fork. Previous to 1886, all the mining on this fork was done -at Eagle, Beaver, Delta, Murray, etc., and was chiefly gold placer -mining, which was not particularly remunerative. Placer mining has also -been done on the South Fork; but the chief ores on this branch are -argentiferous galena, with some gold in quartz. A large number of claims -have been worked into since the beginning in 1885, and the increase of -mining population has been going on rapidly. Mr. Glidden thought that -there were ten thousand people last fall in the Coeur d'Alene mining -country. The veins are accessible and very thick, some of them as much -as forty feet. The ores usually carry 40 to 60 per cent. of lead, 5 to -50 ounces of silver, and often about $3.00 in gold to the ton of ore. -The veins are true fissures, and strike across the country rocks, which -are principally porphyry and quartzite. The strike of the main veins -runs parallel to the river, and at a distance of two to six miles from -it. There are many cross gulches which cut the veins at right angles, -and thus present vertical faces which offer the best facilities for -prospecting and for mining. - -The veins have been opened at so many places as to put beyond doubt -their continuity on long lines, and their great abundance. In fact, the -indications point to a development resembling that made near Leadville. - - [Sidenote: The large tonnage from and to the mines.] - -Some of the ore must be concentrated, and much of it must be shipped in -bulk to the reduction works. Such tonnage is considered the best -possible for a railroad. The ore can be carried in any kind of car, and -is not subject to theft or any sort of damage; and yet its precious -character enables it to bear higher freight rates than pig-iron. There -are no fluxes in the country outside of the ore itself, and it will be -more economical to carry the ore out than to bring in fluxes. The -smelting of the ores on the ground would be further embarrassed by the -difficulty in getting fuel. The timber is in patches, and often -inaccessible; hence charcoal would be costly, and there is no coke to be -gotten anywhere near. The smelting of mixed ores of this sort is a very -complicated process, requiring quite a number of different elements, and -can be most economically conducted on a large scale, and by the mixture -of various different ores. Hence the advantage of having these works at -some great centre where ores of many kinds may be brought. In the -establishment of such a centre, of course, reference should be had to -commercial and trading facilities. A large mining community in one -place and a large commercial and manufacturing community in another, -involves large transportation of crude materials, and of manufactured -products, of food, and of passengers. - -As yet, the Coeur d'Alene mining is in its early infancy. Means of -transportation are partially furnished by means of water and short -narrow-gauge railroads, but they are insufficient. Shipments now are -small, but they will rapidly increase, and Mr. Glidden thinks that in -three years 2,000 tons of ore will come out _daily_, and as many tons of -freight go in--certainly a splendid outlook for business. - -In _concluding_, as I have now done, the general statement in regard to -the physical resources of Washington Territory, I would remark, that all -the facts stated heretofore have a close relation to the interests of -the Seattle, Lake Shore and Eastern Railway and its friends, and that -the remainder of this report will consist in practical applications of -the facts to the railroad and personal interests involved. - - [Illustration: CITY OF SEATTLE, WASHINGTON TERRITORY.] - - - - -SPECIAL REMARKS ON THE COUNTRY AND ITS RESOURCES ALONG THE LINE OF THE -SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN RAILWAY. - - -SEATTLE. - - [Sidenote: Commercial and manufacturing advantages.] - - [Sidenote: Good climate.] - -Concerning this city of 15,000 to 16,000 inhabitants, I need not repeat -what has been so well said in the reports of Governor Squire, and of -United States officers who have examined and reported to the Government -with regard to this location--notably, Gen. Isaac I. Stephens, Gen. -George B. McClellan, Gen. Nelson A. Miles, and others; also by the -Seattle Chamber of Commerce. Its location, its harbor, its people, its -commerce and manufactures, its solid and rapid growth, and its local -relation to all the great natural resources of the Territory, give to -Seattle advantages which cannot be equaled by any other port on the -Sound. Its climate, as to temperature, both in winter and summer, is -remarkable. It is pleasantly cool in summer, and in winter rarely -severe. Its only drawback is an excess of moisture for perhaps four -months of the winter season. But this is preferable to the violent -storms and deep snows and extreme cold to which the Eastern plains and -the upper Mississippi country are subject, and which sometimes attack -New York and the New England States. On Puget Sound there are no -blizzards nor cyclones, and rarely so much as an inch of snow. The -medical testimonies give a very favorable hill of health. - -The industries of city and country are prosecuted with less interruption -from weather than in any of the States east of the Rocky Mountains. The -annual rainfall is not greater, not so great, indeed, as in some parts -of the Atlantic seaboard. It is not so well distributed among the months -as it is eastward; but outdoor work rarely stops on Puget Sound. - - [Sidenote: Good population.] - - [Sidenote: High civilization.] - -The population of Seattle struck me as exceedingly good. Her controlling -classes are men of character, intelligence and substance. The appearance -of the stores, the streets, the offices, and factories, would do credit -to an old city. Water, electric lights, street railways, good fire -companies, well organized police, handsome residences, churches, -schools--all attest the progress of her civilization. Her wharves and -railroad depots are crowded with business. The special pride of the city -seems to be her schools, public and private. Her large and handsome -school buildings seem purposely to have been placed in the most -prominent positions. Her public school system is well organized and -supported. The University of the Territory is located here, and in full -operation. These things, considered together, augur most favorably for -the future of this young city. - - [Sidenote: Railroad lines.] - -Her growth will be rapidly accelerated by the extension of her -railroads. Besides her coal roads, she will soon be practically the -connecting point of certainly two, and perhaps three, transcontinental -railroad lines. She now has railroad connection with the Northern -Pacific, and will shortly be connected with the Canadian Pacific by the -West Coast road. But the road that will do most for Seattle, indeed, the -road which of itself would make a city at its Sound terminus, is the -Seattle, Lake Shore and Eastern Railroad. This will be true if the road -never crosses the limits of Washington Territory; but no doubt it will -ultimately cross the continent, or at least have close transcontinental -connections. - -When these roads are thus extended, they will bring vast quantities of -lumber, and of mineral and agricultural products, and carry in exchange -foreign and domestic products for the supply of the rural and mining -population, to say nothing of the great Eastern trade. Her coastwise and -foreign trade have already been discussed. - - [Sidenote: The chief ship-building centre.] - -Puget Sound must also become the chief ship-building centre of the -continent, and the possession by Seattle of the great fresh-water lakes -so close to the Sound, and the fact that here will be the point where -the Bessemer pig-iron and its products will be manufactured, will give -this point advantage over all others on the Sound. Seattle will build -ships for England, New England, South America, Asia, and the Islands of -the Ocean; and just here will first be seen the dawning of the new day -which will come to our American merchant marine, of late so depressed. -And the Government itself must sooner or later establish on Lake -Washington a navy-yard where ships can be built of the best material at -minimum cost; and where her ships out of commission can lie landlocked, -secure from the teredo and the corroding effects of sea-water, and can -at once get rid of their barnacles. - - [Sidenote: Seattle better located than San Francisco.] - -Seattle can have no rival on the Pacific Coast except San Francisco, -which has the only good harbor and entrance outside of Puget Sound, but -which has no coal, nor iron, nor timber, and whose back-country does -not equal the Snoqualmie valley of East Washington for agricultural and -mineral capabilities. - - -THE TERMINAL PROPERTY OF THE SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN RAILROAD. - - [Sidenote: Unrivalled terminal property.] - -The city and suburban property which the railroad has secured is -singularly valuable, and will afford every facility for city and foreign -business. It is correctly described in the documents of the company. No -future road can acquire such facilities. They approach a monopoly of -great value. - - -SUBURBAN INTERESTS. - - [Sidenote: But two entrances by land.] - - [Sidenote: Superiority of the northern suburbs.] - -There can be practically but two railroad entrances to Seattle, one from -the south, and the other from the north, owing to the bluff ground on -which the city is built, with Puget Sound in front and Lake Washington -in the rear. The roads from the existing coal mines and from the -Northern Pacific enter from the south; the Lake Shore road enters from -the north. Suburban improvements will no doubt be extended both north -and south. But it seemed to me that for residences and amusements the -northern end has the advantage, as the high lands are more convenient -to the railroad, and command fine views of those beautiful lakes on the -east, and of the Sound on the west. Here will be the pleasant drives, -the place for sailing, rowing and swimming; for open-air games, picnics, -etc. On the east side of Lake Washington will be vegetable and fruit -gardens and dairies, whose products will reach the city by this -railroad; to all of which have been added the powerful influence of the -Moss Bay operations. - -The logging business begins in sight of the city, and a number of -logging camps were already in operation along the first twenty miles of -the railroad. After the loggers, follow the farmers. Already a -surprising number of people have established homes in this direction. - - [Sidenote: Factories of the future.] - - [Sidenote: Ship canal.] - -Near the Sound and a little distance from the city will be great -saw-mills, grain elevators, canneries, and, in time, fish-oil and -fertilizer mills, tanneries, smelting furnaces, sulphuric acid and other -chemical works. And here will be the ship canal connecting the lakes -with the Sound, and the shipyards of the future. - - - [Illustration: A TRAIN-LOAD OF LOGS ON THE SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND - EASTERN RAILWAY.] - -TIMBER. - - [Sidenote: Superiority of the timber on the Seattle, Lake Shore and - Eastern Railway.] - -The great lumber interest will have a larger and richer field on the -Seattle, Lake Shore and Eastern Railroad than on any other through -line in Washington Territory. On the line of the Northern Pacific -Railroad the timber is abundant, but too small for the mill, except in a -very few spots. The other roads show but little left close by, and the -trees never had the size of those of Snoqualmie Valley. The West Coast -road, which will be tributary to the Lake Shore Railroad, will pass -through good forests; but, according to my information, the forests on -the line of the Lake Shore road are the very best in Washington -Territory. - -The forest of mill timber beginning in sight of Seattle, continues with -some intermissions to the top of the Cascade Mountains. It increases in -size and quantity to a point far up on the mountain side, and the trees -continue of good size all the way to the top. Crossing the Cascade -Mountains, on the east side the trees are quite numerous, but smaller -than on the west side, though some of them can be sawed. Continuing -eastward, the trees get fewer and smaller, and change from fir to -ordinary yellow and bull pine. In the plateau country of the Great Bend -there are only scattered groups of stunted trees to be seen, and, -excepting a few skirts along the bluffs of the Columbia, no forests of -mill timber are to be met with until after passing the Idaho line. - - [Sidenote: The forests described.] - -I will now review this timber belt with more particularity. After -leaving Seattle, there is a somewhat elevated country between the lakes -and Puget Sound, which is largely covered with mill timber of medium -size. Perhaps two feet and a half would be about the average diameter of -the logs. Here, as everywhere, the principal timber, and that most cut -and valued, are the Douglas fir and the white cedar. - - [Sidenote: Forests of Raging River.] - -Continuing along Lake Samamish, and up Squak Creek, these forests -continue on both sides at some distance off. A large body of moderately -sized timber runs off toward the northeast, covering the hills which lie -in front of the mountain range. Passing the Gilman mines, we meet but -little large timber until we enter the valley of Raging River. Here -there is an almost unbroken forest of splendid timber, extending from -near the mouth as far up as I went, namely, ten miles from the mouth. -The mill timber here would average from six to ten inches more in -diameter than that we passed near Lake Washington; and there seemed to -be a vast body of it in this valley. As far up on the hill or mountain -side as I went, or could see, the trees retain their large size. - -At the upper coal mines I found this to be the case to the mountain top, -800 or 900 feet above the river. The trees were not only large, and -thick on the ground, but extremely tall and free from knots. I was told -that the heavy forest continued a considerable distance above the upper -coal mines. - - [Sidenote: Forests near Hop Ranch.] - - [Sidenote: Superior to the Long Leaf forests of the Southern States and - of the Mississippi Bottom.] - -In the Snoqualmie Valley proper are to be found the largest forests and -the largest trees. The farmers and hop-growers have destroyed thousands -of acres of the finest timber trees on the continent, but many, many -thousand acres still remain unbroken. Between Falls City and Hop Ranch -the wagon road passed through two or three miles of this magnificent -timber. Turning from the road, I ascended the Snoqualmie Mountain, and -all the way up to the coal openings I traveled in the densest forest of -the largest trees I had ever seen. Passing the cleared country about Hop -Ranch, I again plunged into one of these monstrous forests, and traveled -three or four miles through it without a break. The sun never touches -the earth in these forests. The trees rise to the height of 250 feet or -upward, and lock their branches together far overhead, shutting out the -sunlight and awing the traveler. Their trunks seem to stand absolutely -straight and plumb from the ground to the top. I had studied the -long-leafed pine forests of Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi. I had -traveled for a hundred miles through that marvelous forest on the Yazoo -Delta, where it seemed to me that Nature had done her utmost in covering -the ground with vast and lofty trees; but here in the Snoqualmie valley -I traveled through forests that for the size, height, and number of -trees to the acre, as much exceeded the forests of the Yazoo bottom as -the latter exceeded all other forests I had ever seen. The Snoqualmie -forest also exceeds all others I have known in the immense quantity of -its fallen timber, which renders locomotion off of the trails extremely -slow and difficult. The railroad ascends the South Fork of the -Snoqualmie. I did not go up the Middle Fork, but was told that the -timber is fine in that valley also. - - [Sidenote: Trees ten feet in diameter.] - - [Sidenote: Average nearly five feet in diameter and 250 feet high.] - -The little Salal Prairie, five or six miles long, and six miles from Hop -Ranch, breaks the continuity of the forests, but with that exception, it -continues to the pass of the mountain. As to the size of the trees, I -feel sure that I saw hundreds that would average ten feet in diameter. I -measured two that were by no means singular, and one gave a -circumference of thirty-three feet (equal to eleven feet diameter), and -the other not much less. There is no doubt that many of these trees are -300 feet in height. I think it likely that the average height of the -mill timber on the line of the road from Raging River, for two-thirds of -the way up the main mountain (a distance of over twenty-five miles), is -250 feet, and 150 feet of this clear of limbs, and hence of knots. And I -think that the average diameter of the butt-cuts of the mill timber -would be near five feet. I found my greatest difficulty in estimating by -the eye the average number of trees to an acre. I can only say that I -not only never saw so many, but I never conceived it possible for such a -number of large trees to be supported by the soil of an acre of ground. -It was not unusual to see many trees of six to eight feet in diameter -standing within ten feet of each other. I knew, of course, that there -were single trees in California, and elsewhere, larger than any single -specimens to be found here, but I did not know before going to -Washington Territory that such forests as these were to be found on the -face of the earth. - - [Sidenote: Lumber product per acre.] - -I shall leave to men better versed in the details of the lumber business -than I to estimate the quantity of sawed lumber which would be yielded -by an acre of such timber, and by the many thousands of acres which lie -on, or near, the line of this railroad. Somebody published that the -average yield of the Washington Territory forests would be 30,000 feet -to the acre, and this may be, because there is much small and scattered -timber; but if this amount be multiplied by six, it would not do justice -to the forests I saw in the Snoqualmie valley. There are single trees -that would make 30,000 feet of lumber. It is fortunate that the fir and -cedar timber are preferred by the lumbermen, as these varieties -constitute the larger portion of the forest. Undoubtedly the hemlock -will all be wanted at an early day, and so of the larch and the less -abundant trees, both evergreen and deciduous. - -The bearing of these facts on the interests of the railroad are obvious. -Such bodies of timber, standing close to the road for a distance of -eighty miles, would of itself guarantee the success of the road for a -generation to come. - -And there is everything favorable in the position of the timber with -reference to the track, especially if the track, in ascending the -mountain, can be kept near the river. It is to be hoped that the timber -along the right of way will be saved for sawing. It would be no small -item in paying for the road. - -There will promptly spring up along the whole line both logging-camps -and saw-mills. Besides those already in operation, I heard of some -large new enterprises projected. The demand for lumber is so insatiable, -and the profits of the business so good, that an extensive fresh field -like this will be entered with avidity by an army of lumbermen. - - -AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS. - - [Sidenote: Agricultural freights.] - -The agricultural interest is not so large at present on the west side of -the Cascade Range, as the timber, coal and iron interests, but it is -growing, and will become exceedingly important. East of the Cascade -Mountains this will be the chief railroad interest in the beginning, -though ultimately it will be surpassed by the tonnage of the mines. I -have heretofore described the soils and vegetable products of West -Washington, but would say specially with regard to the belt we are -considering, that it is destined to be a fine agricultural region. The -bottom lands of Squak Creek, and of Snoqualmie River, including all its -branches and tributaries, are extremely fertile, and suited to produce -the largest crops of grass, oats, barley, hops, and roots of almost -every sort, besides most of the overground vegetables. - - [Sidenote: Produce of Hop Ranch.] - -At my request, Mr. Wilson, the manager, and one of the owners of the Hop -Ranch, furnished me the following written statement concerning that -estate, which, although larger than any other on the route, is not -richer than many other places of smaller size. - - -MR. WILSON'S LETTER. - - - SNOQUALMIE, W. T., Nov. 3, 1887. - - DR. RUFFNER. - - _Dear Sir_: In response to your request, I make the following - memoranda. Our Hop Farm consists of 1,500 acres of rich alluvial - soil; 300 acres in hops, which produce from 1,800 to 2,000 pounds - per acre. We also raise 150 acres of oats, producing sixty to - seventy-five bushels per acre. From 100 to 150 acres in hay, - producing about three tons to the acre. Also large quantities of - vegetables, such as potatoes, carrots, turnips and onions. All - kinds of root vegetables are prolific except sweet potatoes. - Fruits, such as apples, pears, prunes, plums, and berries of all - kinds, are in abundance. Last year we had over 5,000 bushels of - apples. - - [Illustration: HAY-MAKING IN WASHINGTON TERRITORY ALONG LINE OF SEATTLE, - LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN RAILWAY.] - - At present we ship in about 500 tons per year of merchandise and - supplies, and ship out, in the way of hops and other things, from - 400 to 500 tons per year. This we could double if we had - railroad facilities for shipping. We employ during the winter--that - is, in November, December and January--about forty men; the rest of - the year, from 75 to 1,200 men and women. The keeping up of this - supply of labor, which all comes from Seattle, would be quite an - item to the traffic of a railroad. I presume you know that where - there are a large number of people employed, they are continually - coming and going. In speaking with a railroad contractor the other - day, he told me that in order to keep 500 men at work, he had to - keep 1,500 on the road. This will also be an important item when - the mines are working above here. There are a great many items of - interest to which I might call your attention, but I will confine - myself to the above at present. - - Yours, very respectfully, - - T. G. WILSON, - SECRETARY AND MANAGER OF THE - HOP GROWERS' ASSOCIATION. - - [Sidenote: Farming, fruit and grazing lands.] - -Besides the bottom lands, there are large areas of what might be called -table-lands, north and northeast of the lakes, which are top-dressed -with glacial drift, but which will be well adapted to the crops of the -country, and especially to fruits. And besides the table-lands, the -smaller mountains are generally adapted to agriculture, and especially -to grazing. My impression, as heretofore stated, is that, ultimately, -West Washington will become a great grazing region, though it is -generally supposed that East Washington is to be the chief cattle -country. But the mild and equable climate, and the abundance of rain, -ensures abundant forage summer and winter in West Washington. This will -be important for the feeding of cities farther south, as well as for -sending canned and refrigerator beef far and wide over the Pacific -Ocean. The growth of vegetables, especially of root crops, is something -phenomenal on both sides of the Cascade Mountains, and will furnish a -large item of commerce, as is shown already by the large shipments of -potatoes from Seattle, and the multiplication of canneries. - - [Sidenote: Hops, barley and beer.] - -The hop interest is a large one, but the low prices of the last year or -two have checked the progress of this industry. Breweries have already -been established at Seattle, and elsewhere on Puget Sound, and, as the -chief materials for beer (barley and hops) are produced here so cheaply -and abundantly, we may expect Puget Sound beer to become quite a large -item of commerce. - -The Snoqualmie and Squak valleys have as yet but a scattered -agricultural population, but ultimately farms will be opened along all -the streams, and even high up on the Cascade Mountains. - - [Sidenote: The two great railroads.] - -On the east side of the Cascade Mountains the Seattle, Lake Shore and -Eastern Railway will closely parallel the Northern Pacific Railroad for -a short distance in the Yakima River valley, but will probably leave it -soon after entering the most productive part. The route, however, may be -varied to suit circumstances, and as to this point no doubt would be if -the talk of making Ellensburg the State capital should become serious. -The remark may here be thrown in that this meeting of the two railroads -in the Yakima valley will be no disadvantage to the Seattle road, as the -distance to Puget Sound is about the same, and the incidental advantages -are in favor of Seattle. - - [Sidenote: The Great Bend country.] - - [Sidenote: Douglas County.] - -Crossing the Columbia River, the railway will enter the great plateau -which has been so fully described, and if the passage should be made at -Rock Island Rapids, it will cross the plateau at its widest part. -Nothing more need be said as to the great agricultural capabilities of -the plateau country. The Great Bend, or northern limb of the plateau, is -more extensive than the southern division, but it is a much less -settled country, owing partly to want of transportation, and partly to -want of water. This scarcity of water in Douglas County was formerly -thought to be incurable without a resort to artesian wells; but -experiment has shown that wells of good water can be obtained at -moderate depths, as I was informed by Mr. Smith, a resident of the -county, and by Mr. Nash, the lawyer, who owns property there. The -population and, consequently, the business of this large county is -limited at present, but it has a large body of good land in it, which -will attract settlers before long. Its soil is of the same character as -that of other parts of the plateau; but the general impression seemed to -be that it was not quite equal to the land of the Snake River Basin, or -to the adjoining county of Lincoln, owing in part to a larger proportion -of rough land. I do not, however, consider this question by any means as -settled. The best area for wheat is supposed to be that which borders on -Lincoln County. If the route for the Seattle railway which is preferred -by Mr. Mohr, should be adopted, it would pass across the northern part -of the county, by many persons considered the best part, and leave the -great body of the county out of reach to the southward. - - [Sidenote: Lincoln County.] - -Lincoln County, through the length of which the road must pass, is -universally admitted to be among the best agricultural counties on the -plateau. It is also settling up rapidly, and has become a large producer -of wheat, even at the disadvantage of a long haul in wagons. Mr. Curtis, -who buys much of the Lincoln County wheat for his mill at Spokane Falls, -says that the average yield of wheat is twenty-five bushels per acre, -though in 1886 (the year of failure) it fell to sixteen and one-half -bushels. Captain McGowan, of Lincoln County, also gave twenty-five -bushels as the average crop, and said this would hold good for the whole -period since the settlement of the county, including the bad year 1886. - - [Sidenote: Spokane County.] - - [Sidenote: Price of farming lands.] - -By reference of the official map showing the wheat areas, it will be -seen that the Seattle railway passes through the middle of these areas -in both Lincoln and Spokane counties. The testimony was entirely -favorable in regard to horticultural and pomological products, as well -as to the agricultural, in the strict sense. The population of the three -counties, Douglas, Lincoln and Spokane, was put by Governor Semple at -nearly 18,000; about 17,000 of which was in Lincoln and Spokane. Much -land has been bought with a view to settlement as well as speculation, -and this would be occupied and cultivated _pari passu_ with the progress -of the railroad, and there yet remains much good land which can be -bought at low prices, say from one dollar to five dollars an acre, and -will attract settlers. Farming lands here will have market at the mines -north of the Columbia River, at Spokane Falls, where there will be a -large city, as well as large mills, and at Seattle, where there will be -a large demand not only for the city, but for shipping. - - [Sidenote: Tonnage.] - -No reliable estimates can now be made as to what business this Great -Bend country will furnish ten to twenty years hence. We have only this -to guide us, namely, that the part of the plateau which lies south of -the Northern Pacific Railroad now furnishes 400,000 tons of wheat for -transportation annually, besides other freight and passengers; and it -has not reached one-half of its producing capacity. Mr. Mohr estimates -the income from mail and express as one-fifth the income from freight, -and passenger fares as one-quarter of the whole amount from tonnage. -Though the country lying north of the Northern Pacific Railroad is much -larger in area than that which lies south of it, it may not average as -well, and cannot all be controlled by one railroad; but it will -certainly furnish large tonnage; much more than is common in -agricultural regions. - -At present the product of wheat in this region is estimated at 100,000 -bushels, but this amount would probably be doubled the first year after -the railroad comes, and rapidly increased afterward. Much of the mining -business already crosses this territory, and will, no doubt, greatly -increase. - - -COAL. - - [Sidenote: The Seattle railway passes five coal fields.] - -I have, under the head of Economic Geology, described so fully the coal -deposits of Washington Territory, especially the beds along the line of -the Seattle, Lake Shore and Eastern Railway, that it remains only to -show the application of these facts to the interests of this railway. -The road passes five, if not six, separate coal fields between Seattle -and the Columbia River, namely, the Squak or Gilman mines, 40 miles from -Seattle; the Washington mines, 43 miles; the Raging River, 46 to 50 -miles; the Snoqualmie Mountain, 56 miles; the Yakima (or Roslyn), 75 -miles; and perhaps the Wenatchie, 140 miles. - -So far as appears at present, the Seattle railway will have a monopoly -of all these fields except the Yakima or Roslyn. This it will share -with the Northern Pacific; but it will have exclusive control of the -market between the Yakima and Spokane Falls, which will be almost wholly -dependent upon coal for fuel. Also, it will furnish whatever of this -coal may be wanted by the mining country north of the Columbia. And in -the Spokane Falls market it will have the advantage of bringing the coal -by a route fifty miles shorter. - -The coal on the west side of the Cascade Mountains will go to Seattle -for consumption and shipment, except so much as may be wanted for iron -making, and other manufacturing purposes along the line of the road. -Coke will be in demand for furnaces, foundries, engines, etc., in -Seattle, Spokane Falls, and many other places. But its largest -consumption will be in iron furnaces which will be erected for smelting -the ores of the Cascade Mountains. - - [Sidenote: Largest shipments from the Gilman Mines.] - - [Sidenote: Superior mining advantages of the Gilman Mines.] - -The largest shipments will be from the Gilman Mines for domestic and -steam-boiler purposes. The coal must, of course, come in competition -with other coals which are mined within the basin of Puget Sound, but it -has an advantage over all competitors in the ease, safety, and cheapness -with which it can be mined. This will not, of course, be realized for -the first few months whilst driving the entries, but when the mines -shall have been fully opened I think it will be without rival in the -cost of production. This will be evident from the following report made -to me by Mr. Whitworth, showing the disadvantages in the mode of working -the other mines of the Territory. The terrible explosion which has -lately occurred in the deep mines of Vancouver's Island shows that the -Canadians are also working at a disadvantage. - - -MR. WHITWORTH'S LETTER. - - [Sidenote: Mr. Whitworth's testimony.] - - "At Cedar River the coal is all hoisted from a slope, and the - gangways run at right angles to the slope, and the 'brests' at right - angles to the gangways, or parallel to the slope, or nearly so. The - angle of the pitch is about 18 deg.. And the cars are run up to the - 'brests' to the working face of the coal, and coal shoveled into the - cars. A movable windlass or drum allows the loaded car to haul the - empty one up to face of coal. - - "At Black Diamond the coal is all hoisted from a slope; gangways at - right angles to slope, and 'brests' at right angles to gangways, and - parallel to slope. This pitch is a little steeper, about 20 deg. or 22 deg., - but not sufficiently steep for the coal to run. Therefore it has to - be shoveled down the slope of the 'brest,' or the 'brest' floor - temporarily ironed; and is loaded into car from 'brest' chute. - - "Franklyn has both systems, hoisting up a slope, and working on a - water-level gangway. They have two slopes, one outside and one - inside. This pitch is 45 deg. and more. Gangways run on the strike of - veins, and 'brests' up the pitch. Coal runs freely on the floor of - 'brests.' - - "What it costs now to mine at Newcastle I do not know. The cost of - coal above the water-level gangway put into the railroad cars varies - from 85 cents (one month only) to $1.50 per ton; $1.10 about the - average. For the first six months I do not think we (at Gilman) can - calculate less than $1.25 per ton. - - "The veins which they work or have worked at Newcastle are No. - 4--No. 2, as it is called, which is really Nos. 1 and 2 united--and - Bagley vein. No. 4 is worked out on two lifts, the water level, and - the one below. The third lift they have not cross-cut to it, as the - slope is on No. 2. No. 2 is almost closed on third lift east of Coal - Creek. First two lifts, of course, are worked out. And west of Coal - Creek the working has progressed nearly to the boundary of their - land, and passed the division of the vein into Parts 1 and 2; so - that they are getting but little coal out of it. But most of the - coal comes from Bagley. Bagley is never worked, or but slightly, - when the others are furnishing plenty of coal. Bagley there consists - of two portions of about seven feet each, with one to two feet of - rock and slate between. In the lower bench there is about four or - four and a half feet of good coal; the rest is bony. And in the - upper bench there is from three to four feet of good coal, and the - balance bony. When they are pressed for coal there is a strong - temptation to mine and ship the entire fourteen feet of coal, and - bony coal, as it all looks quite well. This temptation, I know, - under the old administration, was sometimes yielded to, and I have - supposed such was the case now. In fact, in getting that coal some - time since for home use, I have several times seen the straight - Bagley from top to bottom in the ton. No. 2. The united vein at its - best is ten and a half feet, between splendid walls, about one and a - half inch mining on the bottom, and a parting near the centre one - inch thick. That never disappeared, but increased both ways until - the veins were finally separated. No. 2 separate was about five feet - clean, at least with no permanent partings. No. 1, about four and a - half feet of coal with a three-inch streak of fine clay eighteen - inches from the top, the balance clean." - -So much from Mr. Whitworth. - - [Sidenote: Cost of mining coal.] - -Governor Semple puts the prime cost of the coal of the Puget Sound basin -generally at from $2.00 to $2.30 per ton, delivered at tide-water; which -is, I suspect, below the fact. James F. Jones, in charge of mines on the -Northern Pacific Railroad in the Puget Sound basin, reports the cost per -ton at the mines delivered on the cars as ranging from $1.00 to $2.50 -per ton, averaging $1.75. - -The minimum of cost is reached when the seams are of good thickness and -comparatively free from slate, and can be entered on the end by a level -entry above water and be mined upward; to which may be added natural -pitch enough in the seams for the coal to be self-loading; that is, to -run by gravity from the upper gangways to the cars on the main entry. -And to these conditions may be added a number of different parallel -seams close together with their bluff ends all coming up to a line in -the most convenient way for entry and delivery. It is rarely the case -that such an assemblage of favorable conditions can be found, and where -they exist the successful future of the property is absolutely assured. - - [Sidenote: Cost at Gilman Mines.] - -In my opinion, the Gilman coal seams combine all the advantages above -mentioned, and if allowed ordinary rates of transportation, can always -be mined at a profit. As long as the Newcastle seams could be worked -above water-level the average cost per ton was $1.10, but they never had -the same advantages there as at Gilman, and most of their mining has -been downward. $1.00 per ton is certainly high enough for Gilman after -the entries are driven in sufficiently for large operations. If Mr. -Whitworth succeeds in putting out the coal at $1.25 for the first six -months, as he thinks he can, there need be no fear as to the future. - - [Sidenote: Prices of coal.] - -The selling price of coal on Puget Sound has ranged from $3.00 to $5.00 -a long ton in former years, averaging $4.00--the price being the same -for the product of all the different mines. Mr. Whitworth reports the -price this winter at $6.50 a ton for all (including Newcastle), except -Cedar River, which is $5.00. The distances from Puget Sound to Portland -and to San Francisco, the principal markets, are: to San Francisco, -between 800 and 900 miles by water; to Portland, 450 by water, and 150 -by rail. There is now rail connection all the way to San Francisco. The -average cost of sending coal to San Francisco, either from Puget Sound -or Vancouver's Island, is $2.00. The usual price in San Francisco and -Portland has been from $4.25 to $6.00 for coarse, and from $2.75 to -$3.75 for small. On the 1st of February, 1888, the cargo price in San -Francisco was--for Coos Bay coal, $9.50; Seattle coal, $10; South -Prairie, $10; Nanaimo (domestic), $10; Nanaimo (steam), $12; Lehigh, -$18; Cumberland, $12. - -These figures make it evident that a good margin of profit may be -calculated on from the Gilman coal. Mr. Whitworth will not be able to -get his bunkers up until he has his road in operation to the mines; but, -with temporary chutes, he can load 100 tons a day from the time the road -opens, say March 15th. In six weeks after beginning he expects to -increase to 300 tons a day, and one month later he can make the output -600 tons a day. As the headings are driven in the product can be -increased to almost any desired amount. - -The Washington Mines, on Squak Creek, I did not see; and concerning the -Raging River Mines I have no settled convictions. As to the coking coal -on Snoqualmie Mountain, we may expect important developments. -Undoubtedly the new road will promptly enter upon a large and increasing -coal business. - - -IRON ORE. - - [Sidenote: Handling the iron ores.] - - [Sidenote: Furnace sites] - - [Sidenote: Salal Prairie.] - - [Sidenote: Charcoal cheaply produced.] - -The question here respecting iron ores along this road is not as to -their quantity, or quality, or as to their utilization, but only as to -what road or roads will handle the business that will arise from this -source. Naturally the bulk of it belongs to the Seattle, Lake Shore and -Eastern Railway, and at one time there seemed to be no doubt that large -iron-works would at once be established at Salal Prairie by the Moss Bay -Company, of England; but the east shore of Lake Washington has finally -been settled upon for the great plant of this wealthy company; which of -itself will go far to establish the natural monopoly which the Lake -Shore Railway seems to have of the ores on the west side of Cascade -Mountains. And in regard to the magnetic ores generally, this road, from -its location, would seem to be master of the situation. All the iron ore -on the west side of the mountain is owned by men whose interests are -identified with Seattle, and with this line of railroad. The best point -for manufacture in itself considered, the best chance for fuel, the best -line for transportation, the best point for trading and for shipment, -are all on the line of the Seattle Railway. Good furnace sites may be -found at many points, but Salal Prairie is a spot which seems to have -been set apart by nature for a manufacturing town. It lies near the -intersection of the valleys of the South Fork and Middle Fork branches -of Snoqualmie River, is about six miles long and three miles wide, is -flat, dry, salubrious, and well supplied with water. It has a natural -outlet to the South, as well as to the east and west, is convenient to -the iron ore and limestone of both the Middle and South Fork, and not -far distant from the ores of Cle-ellum. It is less than ten miles from -Snoqualmie coking coal, and fifteen miles from the Green River coals. -And, what I think is a still better resource for fuel, it is in the -midst of the great Snoqualmie forests, where saw-mills will soon be -felling the timber, and providing an endless supply of slabs and refuse -tree-tops, from which charcoal could be manufactured at very small -expense. - -It is well known that charcoal is the best of all fuels for making iron, -because of its freedom from damaging impurities. Its expensiveness -generally prevents its being much used now, but here the cost need not -exceed five cents per bushel, and 100 to 120 bushels would suffice for a -ton of iron. The only question concerning the charcoal made from fir -timber is as to its ability to bear the burden in a tall stack. It is -becoming common now to utilize the by-products of wood, formed during -its conversion into charcoal, by a process which makes the charcoal -stronger. But all difficulty on this point can be relieved by conforming -the size of the furnace-stack to the strength of the charcoal. This is -the only fuel which has ever been used on the Pacific coast for the -smelting of iron ores. These enterprises have not been particularly -successful thus far, rather because of the inferior quality of the ore, -than from any defect in the fuel. The bog ore and the limonites which -were used at Irondale, near the Canada line, and at Oswego on the -Willamette, were generally low in iron and high in phosphorus, and the -bog ores were soon exhausted. - - [Sidenote: Quantity of charcoal to the ton of iron.] - -At Irondale, near Port Townsend, recourse has been had to a refractory -ore obtained on Texada Island, in Victoria Sound, on which a duty of -seventy-five cents a ton has to be paid, and which requires a large -amount of fuel for smelting it, perhaps as much as 150 bushels of -charcoal. But Mr. H. T. Blanchard, who is interested in the Irondale -Works, says in a late letter (November 29, 1887): - - "It is perfectly safe to rate charcoal at six cents per bushel, and - the quantity necessary to make a ton of pig-metal not to exceed 120 - bushels, with a good chance of getting it down to ninety bushels per - ton with fair ores." - - [Sidenote: Bessemer ores commonly distant from fuel.] - -The iron ores of the Cascade Mountains will be taken to some extent to -mix with the inferior ores near the coast, but they will be chiefly -worked into Bessemer-pig and steel rails. Steel-making ores are not -common anywhere, and are widely separated from fuel, which makes them -very costly in the States east of the Rocky Mountains. This well-known -fact is alluded to by Mr. Swank, in his report on the Iron Trade of -1886, in the following words: - - "It is also a fact worthy of notice, for which geologists may find a - reason, that nowhere in this country are our best steel-making ores - found in proximity to mineral fuel, either anthracite or bituminous, - while in some parts of the Lake Superior region, even timber - suitable for the manufacture of charcoal is almost wholly wanting." - - [Sidenote: High cost of Lake Superior ores.] - -The most important deposits of steel ores in the United States are on -Lake Superior and in Missouri; but these ores are smelted chiefly by the -Connellsville coke of Pennsylvania, which is 700 to 800 miles distant. -The Cranberry ores of North Carolina are some hundreds of miles from -fuel. A late number of the _Iron Trade Review_ quotes the prices of ore -at Cleveland, Ohio, the principal receiving point of Lake Superior -ores, as follows: - - Specular and Magnetic Bessemer, per ton $7.00 to $7.50 - Bessemer Hematites " 5.75 to 6.70 - - [Sidenote: Cost of producing ore in Pennsylvania.] - -The same authority gives the cost of the ore and coke necessary for the -production of a ton of iron in Mahoning Valley district, at $9.90 for -the ore and $4.50 for the coke = $14.40. To this must be added about -$4.25 for flux, labor, management, interest and repairs, making a total -of $18.65 as the cost of producing one ton of pig-metal. - - [Sidenote: Cost of Bessemer-pig in Snoqualmie Valley.] - -Thus the superior advantages of the Snoqualmie Valley are readily seen. -Here are steel ores, two kinds of fuel, and the limestone in close -proximity. Putting the fuel at more than I think it would cost; putting -the cost of mining the ore at the maximum cost at Cranberry, N. C., and -freight at double price, and we have as the cost of a ton of -Bessemer-pig, as follows: - - Ore $3 00 - Fuel 6 00 - Flux 50 - Labor and management 2 00 - Interest and repairs 1 50 - ------ - $13 00 - - [Sidenote: Large market for steel rails.] - -This is lower than the present cost of producing Bessemer-pig anywhere -in the United States, according to the best of my information; and at -the same time the market is better. The demand for steel rails in the -Rocky Mountain country and in the Pacific States is, and will be, large -and permanent, while the demand in China and other foreign countries -will constantly increase. And so will it be with machinery and tools of -all kinds, agricultural, mining and manufacturing. This demand will be -both domestic and foreign, and constantly enlarging. And it may be -safely asserted that no railroad exists, or can be built anywhere in the -Pacific States, which will compare with the Seattle, Lake Shore and -Eastern Railway in its control of the iron business. - - -THE OTHER MINERALS. - - [Sidenote: Limestone.] - - [Sidenote: Marble, granite, sandstones, slates.] - -I have already said so much as to the convenience and excellence of the -limestone beds associated with the magnetic ores, that I will only -allude to them here as constituting the great resource for furnace-flux, -for building-stone, for lime, and for monumental and ornamental marble. -This will be an important item for transportation. The granite, also, -will be wanted for building, and for paving blocks. There are, no -doubt, quartzites, sandstones and slates which will be in request; some -for the supply of silica needed for tempering fire-clay (which latter is -reported to have been found on Cedar River in large quantity and of good -quality); some for road metal; some for paving; some for building. - - [Sidenote: Precious and base metals.] - -In this group, however, the great resource is in the ores of the -precious and base metals, which have been fully described under a former -head. Too little is known of the silver and lead and gold ores of the -Snoqualmie Valley to lay much stress upon them. The indications do not -justify us in ranking them with the ores of the Columbia Valley. - -The gold placer mining of the Yakima country makes no large show so far. -The silver, lead and copper ores, described by Mr. Burch, may develop -largely, but as yet no calculations can be made as to their value in -supplying tonnage. This field ranks with the Wenatchie, Chelan, and -Methow regions, being undeveloped, and yet so full of promise as to -deserve careful attention. - - [Sidenote: Okinagane, Colville and Kootenai.] - -The mines of the Okinagane and Colville regions promise large results. -All this mineral region, up to and including the Okinagane, lies fairly -within the patronage ground of the Seattle Railway as it pursues its -course to Spokane Falls. The Colville and Coeur d'Alene, to which may -now be added the Kootenai, mining regions, constitute a large area lying -north and east of Spokane Falls, and offer themselves as possible routes -for the Manitoba Railway, but chiefly as tempting fields for railroad -enterprises. The city of Spokane Falls is deeply interested in bringing -in the trade of these growing mines, and the Seattle Railway corporation -may wisely consider the prizes here offered. - - [Sidenote: Coeur d'Alene.] - - [Sidenote: Transportation lines to the mining regions.] - -Railroad building has begun in the Coeur d'Alene country. The Coeur -d'Alene Railway and Navigation Company have constructed a narrow-gauge -road from the Old Mission, near the junction of the north and south -forks of the Coeur d'Alene River, a distance of about thirty-five -miles. The tonnage is said to be much greater than this narrow-gauge can -handle at present. - -From the Old Mission, which is now the terminus of the narrow-gauge -road, the ores are taken by steamboat and barges down the Coeur -d'Alene River, and up the lake to Fort Coeur d'Alene, where connection -is made with the Spokane Falls and Idaho Railroad, running from Fort -Coeur d'Alene to Hauser Junction, on the main line of the Northern -Pacific Railway. This arrangement enables the mines to send out and -bring in their freight, but it is not satisfactory. There seems to be an -opening for a line from Spokane Falls directly into that country. It -would cost $20,000 a mile, by Mr. Mohr's calculation, and would be -seventy-five miles long. If, however, it be true, as reported, that the -Northern Pacific Railroad will make a cut-off from Missoula across the -Coeur d'Alene Mountains, this field will be occupied; which, however, -is not probable. - -The Chewelah, Colville, Summit, Metalline and Kootenai mining districts -could all be reached by a line from Spokane Falls by way of Colville and -Little Dalles. And by running a spur from Colville to a point below -Kettle Falls on the Columbia River, control could be gained, first, of -the navigation between Mahkin Rapids and Kettle Falls, and also the long -stretch of navigable river from the Little Dalles to Death Rapids in -Canada, crossing the Canadian Pacific Railroad at Farwell. It is -calculated that 750 miles of navigation would thus be opened by the -addition of a piece of track twenty-five miles long, connecting the -Kootenai River with Arrowhead Lake. - -A new discovery of silver-lead ores, made on the Kootenai Outlet River, -is making a great stir just now. The body of ore is said to be the -largest yet discovered. We shall expect the Manitoba people to be -looking into this development. There is also some talk of the mining -region on both sides of Kettle River, near the Canada line. The Pend -d'Oreille district is also promising. All this is suggested as food for -thought and investigation. - - - - -CITIES AND TOWNS. - - - [Sidenote: The only competition is between Tacoma and Seattle.] - -The location of Port Townsend puts that town out of the general -competition. The same is true of Olympia. Whatcom, or some possible town -near the line between Whatcom and Skagit counties, might grow into -consequence if made the terminus of some transcontinental road. This -point, however, is involved in the larger question of the course of the -Manitoba Railroad. With the present outlook, the only two competing -towns on Puget Sound are Tacoma and Seattle. The former has the -advantage of being the terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad, and of -having large private capital to advance its interests. These have made -the town all that it is. It is handsomely laid out, and well built. It -has an elegant hotel, and a population said in Tacoma to be 12,000, and -in Seattle to be 7,500. The harbor has water enough, but the landing is -bad; there being no level ground available for wharves or business -houses near the water. A mere roadway, cut out of the high bluff, -furnishes the only line of communication. The town is one to two -hundred feet above the water and above the main railroad depot, and must -be reached by a long, steep road. Tacoma is twenty-six miles farther -from the sea than Seattle, has a back country of inferior resources, and -has no advantage in distances from the East. - - [Sidenote: Advantages of Seattle.] - -Seattle has already been described. It has probably double the -population of Tacoma, and more than double the business. It has flat -ground enough for commercial purposes. In its position, its harbor, its -relations to the back country, its materials for trade, commerce, -manufactures, its present and prospective railroad connections, it -surpasses all present and future competitors on Puget Sound. - -There will be mining and trading towns at numerous points between -Seattle and Salal Prairie. - - [Sidenote: Towns of East Washington.] - -The towns on the east flank of the Cascade Mountains may have a future; -_i.e._, Cle-ellum, Ellensburg, and North Yakima. They have a chance for -the State capital, and there may be manufacturing as well as mining -towns near the iron ore, and other mineral beds. Small places will also -spring up at the mouth of the Wenatchie and the Okinagane, and at the -termini of the steamboat landings. - -The county seat of Lincoln cannot remain at Sprague. Wheatland would -have a chance for that. - - [Illustration: VIEW OF THE CITY OF SPOKANE FALLS, EASTERN TERMINUS - SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN RAILWAY.] - - [Sidenote: Spokane Falls and its fine prospects.] - -Assuming that Spokane Falls is the objective point of the Seattle -Railway, I will give a somewhat full account of this thriving young -city. In 1882 it had 700 inhabitants; in 1887 it had over 7,000. In 1883 -the Northern Pacific Railroad reached there, and since that date the -town has grown continuously. It will be a large city, as will be obvious -if its advantages be considered. These are chiefly: I. Its water-power; -II. Its agricultural relations; III. Its mining surroundings; IV. Its -railroad prospects; V. Its good ground for building. - - [Sidenote: Mr. Paul F. Mohr's article.] - -I. ITS WATER-POWER.--The value of this water-power arises partly from -the volume of water and its great fall, and also its uniformity, and its -freedom from disturbing causes. The river falls in a succession of -cascades amounting to 156 feet within the limits of the city. Mr. Paul -F. Mohr has published an intelligent article on the subject, from which -I quote the following statements: - - "To arrive at the available number of horse-power which the Spokane - River could furnish at this point, assuming 90,000 horse-power as - the gross power of the river, and deducting 60 per cent. therefrom, - would leave 36,000 horse-power as a most conservative and minimum - estimate. - - "The City of Minneapolis used in 1880, as nearly as I can ascertain, - about 20,000 horse-power, and Minneapolis is probably the largest - flour-milling point in the world. - - "The industries requiring most power are, in their order, as - follows: lumber, flour, iron and steel, paper, woolen goods and - worsted goods, with several industries consuming a comparatively - small amount of power, not necessary to mention. Of the industries - above named, all but the iron and steel industries can be followed - at this point, and, in fact, the flouring, paper and woolen - industries belong to this section of the country." - -It is claimed that the Spokane River at the falls never rises more than -six feet, and never freezes. The river here has cut so deeply into the -basalt, that there must be combination among the riparian owners in -order to draw the water to good mill sites, and invite manufacturers to -use the power. Mr. Mohr urges this. - -Two flour-mills are now there turning out about 450 barrels of flour a -day; also saw-mills, and, I think, a dynamo for electric lights, etc.; -but, of course, these use but a small part of the power, which, if fully -utilized, in such ways as are suggested by Mr. Mohr, would of itself -create a large city. - -II. AGRICULTURAL RELATIONS.--Spokane Falls has a promising agricultural -country on all sides. The Pend d'Oreille region has good agricultural -capabilities, though the best lands there are in the Indian reservation. - -The country north of Spokane Falls, in the direction of Colville, is -spoken of as a fertile valley, having more rain than the plateau -country, much of it limestone soil, specially productive in hay and -wheat. The wheat is harder than the plateau wheat, and contains a larger -proportion of gluten; hence it is desired as a mixture for the wheat -that is usually brought to the Spokane Falls mills. - -Turning to the great plateau, we find that the rich Palouse River -country, since the construction of the Spokane Falls and Palouse -Railroad finds its readiest market at Spokane Falls. And now that the -Seattle, Lake Shore and Eastern Railroad is striking out through the -Great Bend, another portion of this great producing region will be -brought within easy reach. - -III. MINING INTERESTS.--I need here only refer to the fact that Spokane -Falls is situated centrally with regard to the mines of precious and -base metals heretofore described. Evidently the business from the mines -of Chewelah, Colville, Little Dalles, Kootenai, etc., must come here -except so far as it may be diverted to a tide-water city which would -smelt their ores and sell them goods. No doubt the Canadian Pacific will -handle some of the business of the Kootenai mines. Similar remarks may -be made with regard to the mines of the Coeur d'Alene country, with -the qualification that a road crossing the mountain, say to Missoula, -would divert some of the trade to Helena or Butte City. - -The miners of Okanogan, Methow, etc., would be nearest to Spokane Falls, -but would be 100 or 150 miles on the way to Puget Sound, which would -divide the trade. - -IV. RAILROAD PROSPECTS.--The Northern Pacific Railroad, a -transcontinental line, already passes through Spokane Falls. If the -cut-off through the Coeur d'Alene country should be made, it would be -equivalent to an additional road. The Spokane Falls and Palouse Railway -joins the Northern Pacific at Marshall, only nine miles from the city, -and its general course points directly toward it. - -The road across the Great Bend has been commenced. The road to Colville, -Little Dalles, etc., will inevitably be made at an early day. - -This would make it really the centre of six roads, counting the Northern -Pacific as two. - -V. BUILDING GROUNDS.--The city is built and building on both sides of -the river, and stands on a level, dry, gravelly plain, a mile or more in -width, rising into wooded hills. In other words, it has all that can be -desired for situation. - - [Sidenote: Sprague, Colfax, and Lewiston.] - -Sprague, Colfax, and Lewiston claim attention as indicating the points -in a proposed branch line of railroad, leaving the Seattle, Lake Shore -and Eastern Railway somewhere in the Great Bend country. - -Shops of the Northern Pacific Railroad are in Sprague, which fact is an -endorsement of the locality. Its population is over 1,500. The town -standing in a coulee, there are no indications of fertility of soil in -sight. Here the timber belts seem to end, and no trees are seen for 100 -miles eastward. It occupies an intermediate position between the great -wheat areas of Whitman County on the south and of Lincoln on the north. -Stage lines leave here for Colfax (south) and for Davenport and other -towns in the Great Bend (north), and also for the Okanogan mines. - -Colfax is about forty miles southwest from Sprague. It is on the Palouse -River, in a narrow valley where there is scarcely room for a town. The -bordering hills are steep; the surrounding country is some 400 or 500 -feet higher than the town. It is claimed, however, that there are good -grades to be had for railroads going in any direction. The town has a -population of 1,800 to 2,000, and is evidently prosperous. It has -water-power and wheat-mills. The railroad agent in the town says that -his cash receipts for freight average $1,200 a day. Knapp, Burrell & Co. -told me that they brought in 672 carloads of freight annually in the -regular course of their business. I felt surprised at the statement. -This firm does a farmers' business in barbed wire, wagons, all sorts of -agricultural machinery and implements, grain-bags, etc., etc. - -Mr. Hamilton imports groceries to the amount of $75,000. Coal is $12.00 -a ton. Lumber is scarce and high, and freights enormous. A citizen told -me that he had paid $64.30 freight from Portland on a lot of lumber that -cost $34.90 in that city. Another marvelous story was that a citizen -paid $5.00 a ton for coal in St. Paul and $20.00 a ton to bring it to -Colfax. - - [Sidenote: Notes on the Colfax country.] - -In asking about the surrounding country, I made the following notes: -One-half the country is arable. The non-arable land is grazed by -horses, sheep and cattle. Wool, an important item. Of the arable land, -one-tenth is under the plough; of this, three-fourths is put in wheat, -and one-fourth in oats and barley--more barley than oats. Very fine root -crops. Average of wheat, 30 bushels per acre; oats, 50 to 60 bushels. -Price of wheat, 45 cents; freight to Portland, 20 cents, making $6.60 a -ton. Peaches mature. Can raise corn, but it does not pay to shuck it. -There is a continuous wheat area of 70 townships, equal to 2,520 square -miles, taking in a little of Idaho. - - [Sidenote: Lewiston.] - -Lewiston, in Idaho, came into being during the days of placer mining, -and now depends on agricultural business. It has about 1,000 people, and -may become important by reason of its location at the junction of the -Clearwater and Snake rivers. The transcontinental line that may some day -be built through Wyoming might pass through Lewiston. - - [Sidenote: Walla Walla.] - -Walla Walla is the oldest, and was long regarded the best of all the -towns of East Washington. It is beautifully situated in a fertile -country; has about 5,000 inhabitants; is well laid off and built, and -has a more staid and settled population than any other town there. This -is true, also, of the farming population around Walla Walla, many of -whom have comfortable homes. The town has some water-mills; and an -astonishing amount of "truck" is raised and shipped in this -neighborhood. The city has not grown much of late, and, except its -agricultural surroundings, there is nothing especially to give it -prosperity. - - -BRANCHES AND ROUTES FOR THE SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN RAILWAY. - - [Sidenote: Railroad branches.] - -The building of the West Coast Railroad will be a happy circumstance for -the Lake Shore road. Skagit County, and especially Whatcom County, have -large resources, and the preoccupation of this ground may discourage -other parties from any attempt to build up a commercial city on -Bellingham Bay. A branch from the Northern Pacific at the Common Point -to Salal Prairie would not hurt, and might help the Seattle, Lake Shore -and Eastern road. - -Besides the short spurs to the mines on the west side of the Cascade -Mountains, there may be needed branches up Cle-ellum, and other rivers, -to mines. I cannot see the wisdom of a branch to the Walla Walla -country, which could be reached only by paralleling the Northern Pacific -down the Yakima River, or else by striking off in the Great Bend, and -crossing the Northern Pacific and its Palouse branch, and then Snake -River, to reach a country already occupied by the Oregon Railway and -Navigation Company, and lying over 100 miles nearer to the tidal market -along a down grade, than by the Seattle road with its mountain crossing. - - [Sidenote: The Palouse country.] - -A branch into the Palouse country would have more to recommend it. It is -nearer, and competition will be on more equal terms. There are now three -railroads in the Palouse country: namely, the Oregon Railway and -Navigation Company's road from Palouse Junction to Moscow, Idaho, -passing through Colfax; the Farmington branch of this road, from Colfax -to Farmington, and the Spokane and Palouse, which runs from Marshall, on -the Northern Pacific, to Genesee. But a road passing through Sprague and -Colfax to Lewiston would cross some rich, unoccupied territory, and -everywhere would compete for business on fair terms. - -Whilst I was in Colfax, at my suggestion, the town was canvassed as to -the annual amount of its freight. The aggregate amount paid by fifteen -firms reached $200,000, and the balance was estimated at $25,000, making -$225,000. Five firms claimed to handle annually 2,075,000 bushels of -wheat, making 62,250 tons. These figures seem large for so small a -place as Colfax. - -The length of this branch would, of course, be affected by the location -of the main line across Great Bend. If the main line should take the -route preferred by Mr. Mohr, Wheatland would probably be the nearest -starting-point. This would be all the better for Spokane Falls; but for -the long haul to Puget Sound, it would seem to be more desirable for the -junction to be farther west. - - [Sidenote: Arguments for the Polouse branch.] - -To my mind, the chief arguments for building this branch are, first, -that it would be a start for the transcontinental road across Wyoming -and Nebraska, and then, so to speak, it would be stretching out one wing -of the bat with a view to catching the Manitoba bug. - -The other wing of the bat would be the Colville branch. The eccentric -bug would inevitably hit one or other of these wings, and when once -caught, would be held. - - [Sidenote: Manitoba railroad.] - -Concerning these Manitoba people, we may assume that they will think -with regard to the routes according to the facts of nature. The direct -line across the Kootenai country would strike the Colville branch, but -in the opinion of able engineers the difficulties are so nearly -insurmountable, that this is least likely to be chosen of all the -routes. The cut-off from Missoula to Spokane Falls by way of Lake -Coeur d'Alene, seems manifestly the best route for this road, that is, -if it be not already pre-empted by the Northern Pacific; but strong -reasons are given to show that the Northern Pacific will not, and -cannot, make this cross line; in which case, we might almost conclude -that the Manitoba will cross here, and inevitably join the Seattle road. - -The only other crossing left would be the Lolo Pass, which would be -still more out of their direction, and would give them no better chance -for an independent line to tide-water than the more northern routes. The -fact is, that the late strategic movement of the Seattle railway in -seizing upon the key to the Great Bend country made it master of the -situation. - - - - -SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER, GIVING LATEST INFORMATION. - - - [Sidenote: Rapid growth of Seattle and Spokane Falls.] - -It is now just one year since I left Washington Territory, and I am glad -to be able to report, on the best authority, that the great interests -heretofore described have progressed, some of them with accelerating -speed. The city of Seattle has added 10,000 to her population, and -Spokane Falls 5,000 to hers. - -Mining has spread its area, multiplied its diggings, and gone forward at -every point amazingly. Agriculture during the past year has not advanced -with equal rapidity. This is easily accounted for by the influences of -the mines and cities. The crops were fair, but not as large as in some -former years; but no fears need be entertained with regard to this great -interest. - - [Sidenote: Change in the location of the railroad.] - -The trunk line of the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern Railway will cross -the Cascade Mountains at Cady's Pass instead of at Snoqualmie Pass as -originally designed, and reach the Columbia River by the Wenatchie -Valley. Crossing the great river near the mouth of the Wenatchie, where -it is thought that a city will be developed, and passing along the -northern limb of the Great Bend country, it will connect with the -other end of the road which is now under construction to Wheatland. - - [Illustration: VIEW OF SEATTLE AND THE HARBOR, WASHINGTON TERRITORY, - SHOWING DOCKS OF THE SEATTLE, LAKE SHORE AND EASTERN RAILWAY.] - -A report from Paul F. Mohr, chief engineer, in regard to this new line, -is embraced in this chapter. Something is said about the Wenatchie -Valley, also, by Mr. Whitworth. - -But the original line is by no means abandoned. It has probably reached -Hop Ranch before this time, and will be continued through the great -timber belt, passing Salal Prairie, at least as far as the iron and -marble beds on Mt. Logan. No doubt in time the road will cross -Snoqualmie Pass, and continue to the mineral beds on the Cle-ellum and -elsewhere. - -I have obtained the following interesting and valuable reports from Mr. -Whitworth, who has been frequently mentioned in this report, Mr. Routhe, -president of the Board of Trade of the city of Spokane Falls, and Paul -F. Mohr, Esq., chief engineer. - - -REPORT FROM F. H. WHITWORTH, ESQ., CIVIL AND MINING ENGINEER ON SEATTLE, -ETC. - - -SEATTLE, W. T., Oct. 2, 1888. - -I now proceed to answer your questions. - -1. Present population of Seattle, and commercial growth? - - [Sidenote: Population of Seattle.] - - [Sidenote: New manufacturing establishments.] - -A census was taken in June of this year, and the total enrolled was -19,700. I presume it was safe to say that the population then was -20,000, and that now it is from 22,000 to 25,000, for although houses -have been built very rapidly, there is not a house, or a room hardly, -that is not occupied. There are now seven brick-yards in operation, each -manufacturing from 10,000 to 50,000 per day. Two boiler-works have been -added to the manufacturing interests since you were here. Three -saw-mills, besides four on the line of the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern -Railway between here and Gilman, have been built, and all have more than -they can do. - -A new fish-canning establishment has been started, and is in successful -operation. A pile-creosoting works, an extensive shipyard works, a -shingle mill, and a timber-preserving works and saw-mill are all under -way on the north side of Salmon Bay. - - [Sidenote: New steamers.] - -The _Alaskan_ and the _T. J. Potter_, two magnificent steel steamers, -and the _Harry Bailey_ and _Hassalo_, good-sized passenger steamers, -besides three or four tugs, and an extra steamer on the Alaska route, as -well as an extra steamer every second or third week for freight from San -Francisco, have been added to the Seattle fleet since you were here. - -2. The Moss Bay Company. - - [Sidenote: The iron company at work.] - -There seems to be no question but that the location on the eastern shore -of Lake Washington is definite. A contract has been made with Denny, and -with those holding with Guy, but not with Guy himself. I understand that -no contract has been made with, or for, any other one, although Mr. Kirk -has been and is still examining all other places. - -Mr. Kirk, and Mr. Williams, another of the firm, are living on the -grounds at Kirkland, and have a force of men preparing the grounds, the -position of the different buildings having all been located. Brick and -other material is being placed on the ground. - -They have entered into contract to roll for the Seattle, Lake Shore & -Eastern Railway 30,000 tons steel at Kirkland, to be delivered within -the next twelve months. They, however, will bring the blooms from Moss -Bay for this. - - [Sidenote: Coking coals.] - -Coke is the fuel Mr. Kirk wants, and thinks he will have. But I do not -think that the question of coke supply is settled yet. Mr. Kirk's -property that we visited (Section 2) is, so far, not developing as they -had hoped. Mr. Kirk has disposed of his interest there. The Smith coking -ovens that we visited at Wilkeson are still producing a small amount of -coke. One or two other veins have been opened at Wilkeson recently, and -the company opening are proposing to put up ovens, and work and coke -their coal. It probably will make about the same quality of coke as the -Smith mine. The only coal that has been analyzed and stands that test -for coke, is Section 34, near Kirk's Section 2. We got some samples of -it, you remember. - -The Snoqualmie coal has been taken possession of by a Mr. Niblock, who -talks now of going to work to open. That, you know, cokes well in the -open air. - -The following is the cross-section of our best veins at Ruffner, or -Raging River, Section 16. Roof, sandstone: - - FT. INS. - Mixed Coal and Slate 1 2 - Coal (clean) 3 1 - Rock 3 - Coal 6 - Rock 6 - Coal 1 3 - -Total, coal, 4 ft. 10 in., rock, 9 in.; which seems to be very strong -coking coal. This bench can be worked to advantage, I think. - -We have another, also, of about three feet of coal, clean, and it is -underlaid with three feet of fire-clay, which probably will be as -valuable as coal. I have burned some of the brick, and sent some away to -be tested. - -No further discovery has been made in the neighborhood of the Denny or -Guy mines. At the "Chair Peak" Iron Mines, owned by Mr. Wilson, Kelly, -_et al._, as they have examined further, the deposit has shown itself -much larger than at first supposed. It is about two and a half miles -from the Guy lode, on Mt. Logan. - - [Sidenote: New discoveries of iron ore.] - -Some quite extensive iron deposits have been discovered on the west side -of the Sound, nearly due west from Seattle. They have not yet been -analyzed. - -What is thought to be a very rich deposit of iron has just recently been -found on one of the islands in the San Juan group, within the territory -of the United States, said to equal the Texada deposit in British -Columbia, which the iron works at Irondale, near Point Townsend, use. -The Irondale furnace commenced work again about a month since. - -In regard to the precious metals: there have been no developments of -importance on this side of the mountain. - -The Okanogan, Salmon River, Coeur d'Alene and Colville mines promise -richer and richer as they are more developed. - - [Sidenote: Lumber business growing.] - -4. The activity in the lumber business is unabated--is on the increase. -The increase of the lumber mills, that I have mentioned in the first -part of this letter, indicates _that_. - -The traffic on the railroad, both in logs and manufactured lumber, is -much larger than had been anticipated, and is increasing. In July the -road hauled 2,843,464 feet of logs. September log haul was about ten per -cent. greater. I could not get the exact figures to-day. - - [Sidenote: Population and freights increasing.] - -5. Spokane Falls is still growing very rapidly, and now claims 12,000 to -15,000 inhabitants, and is building very substantially. Along the line -of railroad on this side of the mountain the country is filling up, of -course, with small ranches or home-makers, and those already on the line -are making increased clearings, and will therefore have more to ship. - -The following shows something of what is being done in July: "Coal -freight, 2,750 tons; miscellaneous, 3,090; passenger traffic, $6,150; -and the advance has been about the same as in logs, except on coal." - - [Sidenote: Labor strike at Gilman Mine.] - -[6. Mr. Whitworth next gives an account of certain difficulties and -troubles, chiefly with miners, which ended in a "strike" that was -somewhat prolonged, but he thought the men would soon go to work on the -company's terms. Of course, the high hopes concerning these mines -(Gilman) had not been realized. Mr. W. proceeds as follows:] - - [Sidenote: Gilman coal seams.] - -On the Smith, or No. 4 vein, we had just got the gangway driven far -enough to turn rooms. The Andrews vein we were driving the gangway -entirely in the coal, but were not yet far enough to turn rooms. Nos. 1 -and 2 veins had gotten, with the gangway, well in under the hill, and -was looking very fine, and turning out good coal. With the prospect of -No. 4, or Smith vein, and Andrews vein, I am still well pleased. On the -vein in Section 26, just across the valley, I have started in a tunnel -to open it; have already driven about sixty feet through the rock, and -have about seventy feet still to go. This tunnel is still going on, not -having been stopped by the 'strike.' - - [Sidenote: Progress of the West Coast Railroad.] - -The West Coast Railroad is completed to Snohomish City, and trains run -regularly, the bridge across the river being completed only about ten -days ago. Both passenger and freight traffic is much larger than -anticipated. They are grading, and expect to have ready for service yet -this fall, five miles beyond Snohomish. Along most of the entire line -the timber is very fine and abundant, and a great deal of the land -adjacent is rich agricultural. - - [Sidenote: Resources of the country along the new line across Cady's -Pass.] - -7. Concerning the new line across Cady's Pass and down Wenatchie Valley. - -[After some remarks respecting grades, etc., Mr. Whitworth proceeds as -follows:] - -On this [west] side of the mountain [Cascade] the timber reaches right -up nearly to the summit, as in the Snoqualmie, and the reports are this -region is rich in coal, and probably also in iron, with some indications -of precious metals. Soon after crossing the divide the line will reach -the very rich agricultural valley of the Wenatchie, which is called "the -garden of Eastern Washington," and traverse its entire length. And it -will pass within a comparatively short distance of the mineral districts -on the northern slope of that range called Mt. Stuart. - -I have heard that there were numerous indications of coal near the mouth -of the Wenatchie on both sides of the Columbia. This, too, will be the -nearest main line to the rich mineral district of Salmon River, or -Okanogan, as well as all that northern mineral belt which extends to the -Rockies, and will strike the heart of the Big Bend wheat-fields. It will -also be eighty miles shorter than the other line. True, Ellensburg and -the Cle-ellum district will be missed, but I think this will be more -than compensated for by those I have spoken of. - -8. Of the progress of the work. - - [Sidenote: Progress in building the road.] - -On this side of the mountains no work except surveys has been done on -this line. At Spokane Falls the bridge across the river, and about forty -miles of track is finished, and they are now operating, I believe, with -very encouraging prospects. On the Snoqualmie line they are pushing on. -The trains now run regularly to Raging River. The bridge across that -stream is not yet completed, but will probably be by the 1st of -November, and it is expected that the trains will be running to the Hop -Ranch by December 1st. - -The branch or spur up Raging River to the Ruffner mine, on Section 16, -is located, and some little work has been done, but it is not being -prosecuted at present, so I do not expect we will be able to get out any -coal from there before next spring or early summer. - - [Sidenote: Cable Railway in Seattle.] - -Another item showing the prosperity of Seattle, is the opening of a -five-mile circuit of cable road to Lake Washington, which occurred last -Saturday. I will send you some papers giving some items that may be of -interest. - - [Sidenote: Southern Pacific Railroad supposed to be coming to Seattle - Harbor.] - -A syndicate of men prominent in the Southern Pacific Railroad management -purchased Milton Point, the land directly west, across Seattle Bay, from -the town, and are clearing it off, and say they will make extensive -improvements over there in the near future. They are building a large -ferry steamer, and have a franchise to run a ferry hourly between town -and the front. It is to be on the route by December 1st. Report says -that the Southern Pacific is coming in there. - -At Smith Cove quite a little town is building up, and property is -advancing all around there. - - -REPORT FROM E. A. ROUTHE, ESQ., CONCERNING SPOKANE FALLS, ETC. - - -SPOKANE FALLS, Oct. 17, 1888. - - [Sidenote: Growth of Spokane Falls.] - -Our city has progressed in growth splendidly since you were here. There -are now fully 13,000 inhabitants. The census of July 1st showed 12,000. -About $1,500,000 have been expended in buildings this year. Eight -business blocks of brick and granite have been built this season. One of -these cost $150,000. Four of these blocks are three stories, three are -four stories, and one five stories. - - [Illustration: SPOKANE FALLS, WASHINGTON TERRITORY.] - -Forty miles of the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern Railway will be -completed between here and the Big Bend by December 1st. The iron, -engines and cars are nearly all here, and the farmers in Lincoln -County are greatly rejoiced at the opportunity for shipping their grain -and stock to market. - -[Sidenote: Prodigious development of the mining interests.] - -The development in the mines this year has been greater than all the -work done heretofore. The gold mines near Murray, Idaho, have yielded -beyond the hopes of all interested in them. I saw four gold bricks, at -the First National Bank, said to contain $37,000. These were from one -mine, a South Fork mine of the Coeur d'Alene. - -The Kootenai country is now reached by steamer after leaving the -Northern Pacific road at Sand Point. A good deal of development work is -progressing, and the ore is being shipped out daily. It is mostly -silver-bearing galena. A new town just above the British line on the -Kootenai Lake has been started. It is called "Nelson." I shall send you -some formulated data at an early date. - -The crops have been good, though not so good as last year. Emigration to -the farming sections does not come in as fast as we would like--in fact, -not as rapidly as to the towns. I think it will be better after the -election. - - -REPORT FROM PAUL F. MOHR, ESQ., CHIEF ENGINEER OF THE SEATTLE, LAKE -SHORE & EASTERN RAILWAY, CONCERNING THE CADY'S PASS AND WENATCHIE ROUTE. - - -SPOKANE FALLS, W. T., Dec. 3, 1888. - -The following is a report of the proposed line from West Coast Branch to -mouth of Wenatchie River: - - -I. ENGINEERING FEATURES. - - [Sidenote: Engineering details of the new route.] - -The proposed line will leave the West Coast Branch at a point six miles -south of Snohomish City, running east, crossing the Snohomish River on -drawbridge at the junction of the Snoqualmie and Skykomish rivers: -thence up the right bank of Skykomish on a 1 per cent. (52.8 feet per -mile) grade, a distance of forty miles from point of beginning. -Thirty-five miles of 2 per cent. (105.6 feet per mile) grade carries the -line to Cady's Pass and mouth of tunnel. The tunnel will be 3,500 feet -long, in granite rock; probably little or no lining will be necessary. - -Descending to the east by a 2 per cent. grade, following the Wenatchie -River, a distance of twenty miles. Descending and level grades alternate -for the next twenty-five miles, where 1,000 feet of tunneling will be -required in the divide between the Wenatchie and Chumstick rivers. This -tunnel saves eight miles of distance in the following eighteen miles, -and avoids entering the box canon of the Wenatchie, a difficult and -expensive piece of work. - -The development in the Chumstick valley is especially easy. Thence into -the Wenatchie valley again, on a 1 per cent. grade, a distance of -twenty-seven miles, to the mouth of the Wenatchie River. - -A summary of the distances and grades shows a very prettily balanced -scheme for operating cheaply and effectively. - - -SUMMARY OF DISTANCES AND GRADES. - - DISTANCE. GRADE. - - West Coast Branch to end of 1% grade, 40m. x 1% - End of 1% grade to tunnel, 35m. x 2% - Tunnel section, 3,500 ft. - Tunnel to foot of 2% grade, 20m. -2% - Foot of 2% grade to Wenatchie 52m. -1% (or less.) - -The introduction of 1 per cent. grades, though higher than the water -grades of the Wenatchie and Skykomish rivers, is justified as balanced -against the 2 per cent. mountain grades and the saving effected thereby -in the bench country, which prevails along both rivers mentioned. - -While tunnel is being driven, a 4 per cent. cross-over through Cady's -Pass can be cheaply put in if necessary. - - -II. RESOURCES. - - [Sidenote: Mr. Mohr's account of the resources of the new route.] - -West of the Cascade Range the road will pass through a densely wooded -district, through which, with the additional aid of transportation -facilities by river now existing, an immense logging industry will be -created. The red fir and white cedar now being taken out are superior in -quality to those of any section of this coast. Each mile as opened will -therefore become an immediate source of income. Considerable prospects -and discoveries of gold and silver have already been found, and a number -of men are now at work making such developments as are practicable in -the absence of transportation facilities. With the opening of the road a -heavy mineral traffic will be developed in the future. - -Near the summit large deposits of iron are sure to be found, judging -from the extraordinary local magnetic variations. - -Twenty miles west of the summit are iron-soda springs, which will no -doubt become quite famous. - -East of the Cascade Summit the country tributary to the road is covered -with open, fine forests; the timber is principally second growth yellow -and black pine, in tall and straight trees, forming very valuable -timber. This prevails for forty miles east of the summit. The remaining -country to the mouth of the Wenatchie River is rich agricultural land, -fairly well settled up between the Cascade Summit and the mouth of the -Wenatchie River. - -Very extensive indications of coal and iron are found; and along all of -the tributaries of the Wenatchie considerable deposits of precious -metals have been discovered, which will no doubt be rapidly developed in -the future. - -This entire section of country has been well known to miners and -prospectors for the past twenty years, but the total lack of -transportation facilities has thus far prevented any considerable -development of mining properties. - -At the confluence of the Wenatchie River with the Columbia River (which -will likewise be the crossing point for the Seattle, Lake Shore & -Eastern Railway) we find the Columbia River is navigable as far up as -the Okanogan country. A large city is destined to spring up at this -point, which will control, by means of the Columbia River, a very -extensive tributary country. - -The valleys of the Entiat, Chelan, Methow, Okanogan, and other rivers, -which drain an extraordinary mineral belt, with occasionally fine -districts of agricultural land, will provide an enormous quantity of -freight for the road. None of this freight will be able to find an -outlet except by this road, by reason of the fact that very swift and -rocky rapids, which begin about twelve miles south of our crossing and -continue for some fifty miles, will for at least a great many years -prevent practicable or profitable navigation to points below our -crossing. - - -III. SCENERY. - -The aesthetic side of railroading has undoubtedly a large commercial -value, and in this instance it will be secured without additional -expense. It will certainly prove a valuable factor in the obtainment of -passenger traffic. From the city of Seattle to the Columbia River an -ever changing succession of magnificent and surprising views will meet -the eye of the traveler. Indeed, I believe that the scenic attractions -of the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern Railway will stand pre-eminent -among all the railroads on this coast. - - * * * * * - -Mr. Mohr's report opens up a region almost unknown heretofore, which is -shown to abound in the finest timber, to possess superior agricultural -lands, and to give indications of rich deposits of coal, iron, and the -precious metals. - -All the reports I have seen from Washington Territory confirm the -impressions I first received in regard to its wonderful resources. - -W. H. RUFFNER - -LEXINGTON, VA., Dec. 13, 1880. - - - SEATTLE, W. T., Jan. 9, 1889. - - DR. W. H. RUFFNER. - - - _Dear Sir_: In relation to your request for such additional data as - may be of interest in connection with your Report, especially such - data as relate to the changes in population since the time of your - visit here a little over a year ago, likewise relating to new - developments in the plans of the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern - Railway Co. and other matters of interest, I respectfully state the - following: - - The immigration into Washington Territory since December, 1887, has - been very heavy, and while there are no statistics showing the - number of immigrants, except such as have taken up their residence - in the towns and cities, I am, I feel sure, not far from the truth, - when I estimate their number at 65,000. Of this number, - - Spokane Falls has received about 8,000 - Seattle " " " 10,000 - Tacoma " " " 7,000 - - The remaining number may be assumed to have been distributed about - as follows: - - To the various small towns east of the - Cascade Mountains 7,500 - - To the various small towns west of the - Cascade Mountains 6,000 - - To the agricultural and mining regions - east of the Cascade Mountains 16,000 - - To the agricultural, timber, and mining - region west of the Cascade Mountains 10,500 - - The usual proportion between the populations of country and towns - in Western States and Territories is as three to one (roughly - estimated); this would indicate that the towns and cities have - received more than their fair proportion of the entire immigration, - and this is true. The consequence will, therefore, undoubtedly be - that of the immense immigration predicted for the year 1889 a - correspondingly larger percentage will reach the rich agricultural, - mineral, and timber lands of Washington Territory, and thus - restore the proper balance. - - Since Mr. Whitworth's report and yours, an additional cable - railroad and an electric street railway have been started at - Seattle, and quite a number of new enterprises have been commenced. - - At Spokane Falls considerable terminal facilities for the Seattle, - Lake Shore & Eastern Railway have been added, a system of warehouse - and mill tracks has been agreed upon between the Northern Pacific - Railroad Co. and the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern Railway Co. to - be built and operated jointly by the two companies, a new cable - street railroad has been projected and partly built, and about five - miles of street railway has been placed in operation. Extensive - improvements in the development of the water power are in progress, - several new bridges have been built, and a general air of - prosperity pervades the place. To indicate the importance of the - business of Spokane Falls it is only necessary to state the fact - that this city has paid nearly $1,750,000 to the Northern Pacific - Railroad during the year 1888 for freights and passages. - - The Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern Railway Co. has decided to build - a branch line from some point near the crossing of the Grand - Coulee to the Okanogan mines (Conconnully district), about seventy - miles, work to be commenced as soon as the main line shall be - completed. This feeder will command a very extensive business, - perhaps equal to the enormous business of the Coeur d'Alene mines - which is now enjoyed by the Northern Pacific Railroad. - - Since Mr. Whitworth's last report to you, considerable development - work has been done upon the Grand Ridge mines 2-1/2 miles east of - Gilman and adjacent to our railroad; the vein developed is four - feet thick and furnishes a hard, compact coal, superior for - domestic purposes to any coal yet found in that section. Shipments - commenced last month, and the prospects for a heavy output are very - flattering. - - The Spokane Division of the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern Railway, - extending from Spokane westwardly, a distance of forty-five miles, - is practically finished; trains are running regularly, and as soon - as our motive-power and cars can be disengaged from the work of - "ballasting" we will be able to do considerable business. - - Very respectfully yours, - - PAUL F. MOHR, - - CHIEF ENGINEER. - - - * * * * * - -TRANSCRIBER NOTES: - - - Missing punctuation has been added and obvious punctuation errors - have been corrected without note. - - Archaic, obsolete and misspelled words have not been changed. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Report on Washington Territory, by -William Henry Ruffner - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A REPORT ON WASHINGTON TERRITORY *** - -***** This file should be named 40132.txt or 40132.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/1/3/40132/ - -Produced by Pat McCoy, David E. 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