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+The Project Gutenberg Etext of Madame Chrysantheme by Pierre Loti, v3
+#80 in our series The French Immortals Crowned by the French Academy
+#5 in our series by Pierre Loti
+
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+Title: Madame Chrysantheme, v3
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+Author: Pierre Loti
+
+Release Date: April, 2003 [Etext #3993]
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+The Project Gutenberg Etext of Madame Chrysantheme by Pierre Loti, v3
+********This file should be named 3993.txt or 3993.zip*********
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+
+
+
+
+
+MADAME CHRYSANTHEME
+
+By PIERRE LOTI
+
+
+
+BOOK 3.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXIV
+
+THE FEAST OF THE TEMPLE
+
+Sunday, August 25th.
+
+About six o'clock, while I was on duty, the 'Triomphante' abandoned her
+prison walls between the mountains and came out of dock. After much
+manoeuvring we took up our old moorings in the harbor, at the foot of the
+Diou-djen-dji hills. The weather was again calm and cloudless, the sky
+presenting a peculiar clarity, as if it had been swept by a cyclone, an
+exceeding transparency bringing out the minutest details in the distance
+till then unseen; as if the terrible blast had blown away every vestige
+of the floating mists and left behind it nothing but void and boundless
+space. The coloring of woods and mountains stood out again in the
+resplendent verdancy of spring after the torrents of rain, like the wet
+colors of some freshly washed painting. The sampans and junks, which for
+the last three days had been lying under shelter, had now put out to sea,
+and the bay was covered with their white sails, which looked like a
+flight of enormous seabirds.
+
+At eight o'clock, at nightfall, our manoeuvres having ended, I embarked
+with Yves on board a sampan; this time it is he who is carrying me off
+and taking me back to my home.
+
+On land, a delicious perfume of new-mown hay greets us, and the road
+across the mountains is bathed in glorious moonlight. We go straight up
+to Diou-djen-dji to join Chrysantheme; I feel almost remorseful, although
+I hardly show it, for my neglect of her.
+
+Looking up, I recognize from afar my little house, perched on high. It
+is wide open and lighted; I even hear the sound of a guitar. Then I
+perceive the gilt head of my Buddha between the little bright flames of
+its two hanging night-lamps. Now Chrysantheme appears on the veranda,
+looking out as if she expected us; and with her wonderful bows of hair
+and long, falling sleeves, her silhouette is thoroughly Nipponese.
+
+As I enter, she comes forward to kiss me, in a graceful, though rather
+hesitating manner, while Oyouki, more demonstrative, throws her arms
+around me.
+
+Not without a certain pleasure do I see once more this Japanese home,
+which I wonder to find still mine when I had almost forgotten its
+existence. Chrysantheme has put fresh flowers in our vases, spread out
+her hair, donned her best clothes, and lighted our lamps to honor my
+return. From the balcony she had watched the 'Triomphante' leave the
+dock, and, in the expectation of our prompt return, she had made her
+preparations; then, to wile away the time, she was studying a duet on the
+guitar with Oyouki. Not a question did she ask, nor a reproach did she
+make. Quite the contrary.
+
+"We understood," she said, "how impossible it was, in such dreadful
+weather, to undertake so lengthy a crossing in a sampan."
+
+She smiled like a pleased child, and I should be fastidious indeed if I
+did not admit that to-night she is charming.
+
+I announce my intention of taking a long stroll through Nagasaki; we will
+take Oyouki-San and two little cousins who happen to be here, as well as
+some other neighbors, if they wish it; we will buy the most amusing toys,
+eat all sorts of cakes, and entertain ourselves to our hearts' content.
+
+"How lucky we are to be here, just at the right moment," they exclaim,
+jumping with joy. "How fortunate we are! This very evening there is to
+be a pilgrimage to the great temple of the jumping Tortoise! "The whole
+town will be there; all our married friends have already started, the
+whole set, X----, Y----, Z----, Touki-San, Campanule, and Jonquille, with
+"the friend of amazing height." And these two, poor Chrysantheme and
+poor Oyouki, would have been obliged to stay at home with heavy hearts,
+had we not arrived, because Madame Prune had been seized with faintness
+and hysterics after her dinner.
+
+Quickly the mousmes must deck themselves out. Chrysantheme is ready;
+Oyouki hurries, changes her dress, and, putting on a mouse-colored gray
+robe, begs me to arrange the bows of her fine sash-black satin lined with
+yellow-sticking at the same time in her hair a silver topknot. We light
+our lanterns, swinging at the end of little sticks; M. Sucre,
+overwhelming us with thanks for his daughter, accompanies us on all
+fours to the door, and we go off gayly through the clear and balmy night.
+
+Below, we find the town in all the animation of a great holiday. The
+streets are thronged; the crowd passes by--a laughing, capricious, slow,
+unequal tide, flowing onward, however, steadily in the same direction,
+toward the same goal. From it rises a penetrating but light murmur, in
+which dominate the sounds of laughter, and the low-toned interchange of
+polite speeches. Then follow lanterns upon lanterns. Never in my life
+have I seen so many, so variegated, so complicated, and so extraordinary.
+
+We follow, drifting with the surging crowd, borne along by it. There
+are groups of women of every age, decked out in their smartest clothes,
+crowds of mousmes with aigrettes of flowers in their hair, or little
+silver topknots like Oyouki--pretty little physiognomies, little, narrow
+eyes peeping between their slits like those of new-born kittens, fat,
+pale, little cheeks, round, puffed-out, half-opened lips. They are
+pretty, nevertheless, these little Nipponese, in their smiles and
+childishness.
+
+The men, on the other hand, wear many a pot-hat, pompously added to the
+long national robe, and giving thereby a finishing touch to their
+cheerful ugliness, resembling nothing so much as dancing monkeys. They
+carry boughs in their hands, whole shrubs even, amid the foliage of which
+dangle all sorts of curious lanterns in the shapes of imps and birds.
+
+As we advance in the direction of the temple, the streets become more
+noisy and crowded. All along the houses are endless stalls raised on
+trestles, displaying sweetmeats of every color, toys, branches of
+flowers, nosegays and masks. There are masks everywhere, boxes full of
+them, carts full of them; the most popular being the one that represents
+the livid and cunning muzzle, contracted as by a deathlike grimace, the
+long straight ears and sharp-pointed teeth of the white fox, sacred to
+the God of Rice. There are also others symbolic of gods or monsters,
+livid, grimacing, convulsed, with wigs and beards of natural hair. All
+manner of folk, even children, purchase these horrors, and fasten them
+over their faces. Every sort of instrument is for sale, among them many
+of those crystal trumpets which sound so strangely--this evening they are
+enormous, six feet long at least--and the noise they make is unlike
+anything ever heard before: one would say gigantic turkeys were gobbling
+amid the crowd, striving to inspire fear.
+
+In the religious amusements of this people it is not possible for us to
+penetrate the mysteriously hidden meaning of things; we can not divine
+the boundary at which jesting stops and mystic fear steps in. These
+customs, these symbols, these masks, all that tradition and atavism have
+jumbled together in the Japanese brain, proceed from sources utterly dark
+and unknown to us; even the oldest records fail to explain them to us in
+anything but a superficial and cursory manner, simply because we have
+absolutely nothing in common with this people. We pass through the midst
+of their mirth and their laughter without understanding the wherefore, so
+totally do they differ from our own.
+
+Chrysantheme with Yves, Oyouki with me, Fraise and Zinnia, our cousins,
+walking before us under our watchful eyes, move slowly through the crowd,
+holding hands lest we should lose one another.
+
+Along the streets leading to the temple, the wealthy inhabitants have
+decorated the fronts of their houses with vases and nosegays. The
+peculiar shed-like buildings common in this country, with their open
+platform frontage, are particularly well suited for the display of choice
+objects; all the houses have been thrown open, and the interiors are hung
+with draperies that hide the back of the apartments. In front of these
+hangings, and standing slightly back from the movement of the passing
+crowd, the various exhibited articles are placed methodically in a row,
+under the full glare of hanging lamps. Hardly any flowers compose the
+nosegays, nothing but foliage--some rare and priceless, others chosen, as
+if purposely, from the commonest plants, arranged, however, with such
+taste as to make them appear new and choice; ordinary lettuce-leaves,
+tall cabbage-stalks are placed with exquisite artificial taste in vessels
+of marvellous workmanship. All the vases are of bronze, but the designs
+are varied according to each changing fancy: some complicated and
+twisted, others, and by far the larger number, graceful and simple, but
+of a simplicity so studied and exquisite that to our eyes they seem the
+revelation of an unknown art, the subversion of all acquired notions of
+form.
+
+On turning a corner of a street, by good luck we meet our married
+comrades of the Triomphante and Jonquille, Toukisan and Campanule! Bows
+and curtseys are exchanged by the mousmes, reciprocal manifestations of
+joy at meeting; then, forming a compact band, we are carried off by the
+ever-increasing crowd and continue our progress in the direction of the
+temple.
+
+The streets gradually ascend (the temples are always built on a height);
+and by degrees, as we mount, there is added to the brilliant fairyland of
+lanterns and costumes yet another, ethereally blue in the haze of
+distance; all Nagasaki, its pagodas, its mountains, its still waters full
+of the rays of moonlight, seem to rise with us into the air. Slowly,
+step by step, one may say it springs up around, enveloping in one great
+shimmering veil all the foreground, with its dazzling red lights and
+many-colored streamers.
+
+No doubt we are drawing near, for here are steps, porticoes and monsters
+hewn out of enormous blocks of granite. We now have to climb a series of
+steps, almost carried by the surging crowd ascending with us.
+
+We have arrived at the temple courtyard.
+
+This is the last and most astonishing scene in the evening's fairy-tale
+--a luminous and weird scene, with fantastic distances lighted up by the
+moon, with the gigantic trees, the sacred cryptomerias, elevating their
+sombre boughs into a vast dome.
+
+Here we are all seated with our mousmes, beneath the light awning,
+wreathed in flowers, of one of the many little teahouses improvised in
+this courtyard. We are on a terrace at the top of the great steps, up
+which the crowd continues to flock, and at the foot of a portico which
+stands erect with the rigid massiveness of a colossus against the dark
+night sky; at the foot also of a monster, who stares down upon us, with
+his big stony eyes, his cruel grimace and smile.
+
+This portico and the monster are the two great overwhelming masses in the
+foreground of the incredible scene before us; they stand out with
+dazzling boldness against the vague and ashy blue of the distant sphere
+beyond; behind them, Nagasaki is spread out in a bird's-eye view, faintly
+outlined in the transparent darkness with myriads of little colored
+lights, and the extravagantly dented profile of the mountains is
+delineated on the starlit sky, blue upon blue, transparency upon
+transparency. A corner of the harbor also is visible, far up, undefined,
+like a lake lost in clouds the water, faintly illumined by a ray of
+moonlight, making it shine like a sheet of silver.
+
+Around us the long crystal trumpets keep up their gobble. Groups of
+polite and frivolous persons pass and repass like fantastic shadows:
+childish bands of small-eyed mousmes with smile so candidly meaningless
+and coiffures shining through their bright silver flowers; ugly men
+waving at the end of long branches their eternal lanterns shaped like
+birds, gods, or insects.
+
+Behind us, in the illuminated and wide-open temple, the bonzes sit,
+immovable embodiments of doctrine, in the glittering sanctuary inhabited
+by divinities, chimeras, and symbols. The crowd, monotonously droning
+its mingled prayers and laughter, presses around them, sowing its alms
+broadcast; with a continuous jingle, the money rolls on the ground into
+the precincts reserved to the priests, where the white mats entirely f
+disappear under the mass of many-sized coins accumulated there as if
+after a deluge of silver and bronze.
+
+We, however, feel thoroughly at sea in the midst of this festivity; we
+look on, we laugh like the rest, we make foolish and senseless remarks in
+a language insufficiently learned, which this evening, I know not why, we
+can hardly understand. Notwithstanding the night breeze, we find it very
+hot under our awning, and we absorb quantities of odd-looking water-ices,
+served in cups, which taste like scented frost, or rather like flowers
+steeped in snow. Our mousmes order for themselves great bowls of candied
+beans mixed with hail--real hailstones, such as we might pick up after a
+hailstorm in March.
+
+Glou! glou! glou! the crystal trumpets slowly repeat their notes, the
+powerful sonority of which has a labored and smothered sound, as if they
+came from under water; they mingle with the jingling of rattles and the
+noise of castanets. We have also the impression of being carried away in
+the irresistible swing of this incomprehensible gayety, composed, in
+proportions we can hardly measure, of elements mystic, puerile, and even
+ghastly. A sort of religious terror is diffused by the hidden idols
+divined in the temple behind us; by the mumbled prayers, confusedly
+heard; above all, by the horrible heads in lacquered wood, representing
+foxes, which, as they pass, hide human faces--hideous livid masks.
+
+In the gardens and outbuildings of the temple the most inconceivable
+mountebanks have taken up their quarters, their black streamers, painted
+with white letters, looking like funeral trappings as they float in the
+wind from the tops of their tall flagstaffs. Thither we turn our steps,
+as soon as our mousmes have ended their orisons and bestowed their alms.
+
+In one of the booths a man, stretched on a table, flat on his back, is
+alone on the stage; puppets of almost human size, with horribly grinning
+masks, spring out of his body; they speak, gesticulate, then fall back
+like empty rags; with a sudden spring they start up again, change their
+costumes, change their faces, tearing about in one continual frenzy.
+Suddenly three, even four, appear at the same time; they are nothing more
+than the four limbs of the outstretched man, whose legs and arms, raised
+on high, are each dressed up and capped with a wig under which peers a
+mask; between these phantoms tremendous fighting and battling take place,
+and many a sword-thrust is exchanged. The most fearful of all is a
+certain puppet representing an old hag; every time she appears, with her
+weird head and ghastly grin, the lights burn low, the music of the
+accompanying orchestra moans forth a sinister strain given by the flutes,
+mingled with a rattling tremolo which sounds like the clatter of bones.
+This creature evidently plays an ugly part in the piece--that of a
+horrible old ghoul, spiteful and famished. Still more appalling than her
+person is her shadow, which, projected upon a white screen, is abnormally
+and vividly distinct; by means of some unknown process this shadow, which
+nevertheless follows all her movements, assumes the aspect of a wolf. At
+a given moment the hag turns round and presents the profile of her
+distorted snub nose as she accepts the bowl of rice which is offered to
+her; on the screen at the very same instant appears the elongated outline
+of the wolf, with its pointed ears, its muzzle and chops, its great teeth
+and hanging tongue. The orchestra grinds, wails, quivers; then suddenly
+bursts out into funereal shrieks, like a concert of owls; the hag is now
+eating, and her wolfish shadow is eating also, greedily moving its jaws
+and nibbling at another shadow easy to recognize--the arm of a little
+child.
+
+We now go on to see the great salamander of Japan, an animal rare in this
+country, and quite unknown elsewhere, a great, cold mass, sluggish and
+benumbed, looking like some antediluvian experiment, forgotten in the
+inner seas of this archipelago.
+
+Next comes the trained elephant, the terror of our mousmes, the
+equilibrists, the menagerie.
+
+It is one o'clock in the morning before we are back at Diou-djen-dji.
+
+We first get Yves to bed in the little paper room he has already once
+occupied. Then we go to bed ourselves, after the inevitable
+preparations, the smoking of the little pipe, and the tap! tap! tap!
+tap! on the edge of the box.
+
+Suddenly Yves begins to move restlessly in his sleep, to toss about,
+giving great kicks on the wall, and making a frightful noise.
+
+What can be the matter? I imagine at once that he must be dreaming of
+the old hag and her wolfish shadow. Chrysantheme raises herself on her
+elbow and listens, with astonishment depicted on her face.
+
+Ah, happy thought! she has guessed what is tormenting him:
+
+"Ka!" ("mosquitoes") she says.
+
+And, to impress the more forcibly her meaning on my mind, she pinches my
+arm so hard with her little pointed nails, at the same time imitating,
+with such an amusing play of her features, the grimace of a person who is
+stung, that I exclaim:
+
+"Oh! stop, Chrysantheme, this pantomime is too expressive, and indeed
+useless! I know the word 'Ka', and had quite understood, I assure you."
+
+It is done so drolly and so quickly, with such a pretty pout, that in
+truth I can not think of being angry, although I shall certainly have
+tomorrow a blue mark on my arm; about that there is no doubt.
+
+"Come, we must get up and go to Yves's rescue; he must not be allowed to
+go on thumping in that manner. Let us take a lantern, and see what has
+happened."
+
+It was indeed the mosquitoes. They are hovering in a thick cloud about
+him; those of the house and those of the garden all seem collected
+together, swarming and buzzing. Chrysantheme indignantly burns several
+at the flame of her lantern, and shows me others (Hou!) covering the
+white paper walls.
+
+He, tired out with his day's amusement, sleeps on; but his slumbers are
+restless, as may be easily imagined. Chrysantheme gives him a shake,
+wishing him to get up and share our blue mosquito-net.
+
+After a little pressing he does as he is bid and follows us, looking like
+an overgrown boy only half awake. I make no objection to this singular
+hospitality; after all, it looks so little like a bed, the matting we are
+to share, and we sleep in our clothes, as we always do, according to the
+Nipponese fashion. After all, on a journey in a railway, do not the most
+estimable ladies stretch themselves without demur by the side of
+gentlemen unknown to them?
+
+I have, however, placed Chrysantheme's little wooden block in the centre
+of the gauze tent, between our two pillows.
+
+Without saying a word, in a dignified manner, as if she were rectifying
+an error of etiquette that I had inadvertently committed, Chrysantheme
+takes up her piece of wood, putting in its place my snake-skin drum; I
+shall therefore be in the middle between the two. It is really more
+correct, decidedly more proper; Chrysantheme is evidently a very decorous
+young person.
+
+Returning on board next morning, in the clear morning sun, we walk
+through pathways full of dew, accompanied by a band of funny little
+mousmes of six or eight years of age, who are going to school.
+
+Needless to say, the cicalas around us keep up their perpetual sonorous
+chirping. The mountain smells delicious. The atmosphere, the dawning
+day, the infantine grace of these little girls in their long frocks and
+shiny coiffures-all is redundant with freshness and youth. The flowers
+and grasses on which we tread sparkle with dewdrops, exhaling a perfume
+of freshness. What undying beauty there is, even in Japan, in the fresh
+morning hours in the country, and the dawning hours of life!
+
+Besides, I am quite ready to admit the attractiveness of the little
+Japanese children; some of them are most fascinating. But how is it that
+their charm vanishes so rapidly and is so quickly replaced by the elderly
+grimace, the smiling ugliness, the monkeyish face?
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXV
+
+THROUGH A MICROSCOPE
+
+The small garden of my mother-in-law, Madame Renoncule, is, without
+exception, one of the most melancholy spots I have seen in all my travels
+through the world.
+
+Oh, the slow, enervating, dull hours spent in idle and diffuse
+conversation on the dimly lighted veranda! Oh, the detestable peppered
+jam in the tiny pots! In the middle of the town, enclosed by four walls,
+is this park of five yards square, with little lakes, little mountains,
+and little rocks, where all wears an antiquated appearance, and
+everything is covered with a greenish mold from want of sunlight.
+
+Nevertheless, a true feeling for nature has inspired this tiny
+representation of a wild spot. The rocks are well placed, the dwarf
+cedars, no taller than cabbages, stretch their gnarled boughs over the
+valleys in the attitude of giants wearied by the weight of centuries; and
+their look of full-grown trees perplexes one and falsifies the
+perspective. When from the dark recesses of the apartment one perceives
+at a certain distance this diminutive landscape dimly lighted, the wonder
+is whether it is all artificial, or whether one is not one's self the
+victim of some morbid illusion; and whether it is not indeed a real
+country view seen through a distorted vision out of focus, or through the
+wrong end of a telescope.
+
+To any one familiar with Japanese life, my mother-in-law's house in
+itself reveals a refined nature--complete bareness, two or three screens
+placed here and there, a teapot, a vase full of lotus-flowers, and
+nothing more. Woodwork devoid of paint or varnish, but carved in most
+elaborate and capricious openwork, the whiteness of the pinewood being
+preserved by constant scrubbing with soap and water. The posts and beams
+of the framework are varied by the most fanciful taste: some are cut in
+precise geometrical forms; others are artificially twisted, imitating
+trunks of old trees covered with tropical creepers. Everywhere are
+little hiding-places, little nooks, little closets concealed in the most
+ingenious and unexpected manner under the immaculate uniformity of the
+white paper panels.
+
+I can not help smiling when I think of some of the so-called "Japanese"
+drawing-rooms of our Parisian fine ladies, overcrowded with knickknacks
+and curios and hung with coarse gold embroideries on exported satins.
+I would advise those persons to come and look at the houses of people
+of taste out here; to visit the white solitudes of the palaces at Yeddo.
+In France we have works of art in order to enjoy them; here they possess
+them merely to ticket them and lock them up carefully in a kind of
+mysterious underground room called a 'godoun', shut in by iron gratings.
+On rare occasions, only to honor some visitor of distinction, do they
+open this impenetrable depositary. The true Japanese manner of
+understanding luxury consists in a scrupulous and indeed almost excessive
+cleanliness, white mats and white woodwork; an appearance of extreme
+simplicity, and an incredible nicety in the most infinitesimal details.
+
+My mother-in-law seems to be really a very good woman, and were it not
+for the insurmountable feeling of spleen the sight of her garden produces
+on me, I should often go to see her. She has nothing in common with the
+mammas of Jonquille, Campanule, or Touki she is vastly their superior;
+and then I can see that she has been very good-looking and fashionable.
+Her past life puzzles me; but, in my position as a son-in-law, good
+manners prevent my making further inquiries.
+
+Some assert that she was formerly a celebrated geisha in Yeddo, who lost
+public favor by her folly in becoming a mother. This would account for
+her daughter's talent on the guitar; she had probably herself taught her
+the touch and style of the Conservatory.
+
+Since the birth of Chrysantheme (her eldest child and first cause of this
+loss of favor), my mother-in-law, an expansive although distinguished
+nature, has fallen seven times into the same fatal error, and I have two
+little sisters-in-law: Mademoiselle La Neige,--[Oyouki-San]--and
+Mademoiselle La Lune,--[Tsouki-San.]--as well as five little brothers-
+in-law: Cerisier, Pigeon, Liseron, Or, and Bambou.
+
+Little Bambou is four years old--a yellow baby, fat and round all over,
+with fine bright eyes; coaxing and jolly, sleeping whenever he is not
+laughing. Of all my Nipponese family, Bambou is the one I love the most.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXVI
+
+MY NAUGHTY DOLL
+
+Tuesday, August 27th.
+
+During this whole day we--Yves, Chrysantheme, Oyouki and myself--have
+spent the time wandering through dark and dusty nooks, dragged hither and
+thither by four quick-footed djins, in search of antiquities in the bric-
+a-brac shops.
+
+Toward sunset, Chrysantheme, who has wearied me more than ever since
+morning, and who doubtless has perceived it, pulls a very long face,
+declares herself ill, and begs leave to spend the night with her mother,
+Madame Renoncule.
+
+I agree to this with the best grace in the world; let her go, tiresome
+little mousme! Oyouki will carry a message to her parents, who will shut
+up our rooms; we shall spend the evening, Yves and I, in roaming about as
+fancy takes us, without any mousme dragging at our heels, and shall
+afterward regain our own quarters on board the 'Triomphante', without
+having the trouble of climbing up that hill.
+
+First of all, we make an attempt to dine together in some fashionable
+tea-house. Impossible! not a place is to be had; all the absurd paper
+rooms, all the compartments contrived by so many ingenious tricks of
+slipping and sliding panels, all the nooks and corners in the little
+gardens are filled with Japanese men and women eating impossible and
+incredible little dishes. Numberless young dandies are dining tete-a-
+tete with the ladies of their choice, and sounds of dancing-girls and
+music issue from the private rooms.
+
+The fact is, to-day is the third and last day of the great pilgrimage to
+the temple of the jumping Tortoise, of which we saw the beginning
+yesterday; and all Nagasaki is at this time given over to amusement.
+
+At the tea-house of the Indescribable Butterflies, which is also full to
+overflowing, but where we are well known, they have had the bright idea
+of throwing a temporary flooring over the little lake--the pond where the
+goldfish live--and our meal is served here, in the pleasant freshness of
+the fountain which continues its murmur under our feet.
+
+After dinner, we follow the faithful and ascend again to the temple.
+
+Up there we find the same elfin revelry, the same masks, the same music.
+We seat ourselves, as before, under a gauze tent and sip odd little
+drinks tasting of flowers. But this evening we are alone, and the
+absence of the band of mousmes, whose familiar little faces formed a bond
+of union between this holiday-making people and ourselves, separates and
+isolates us more than usual from the profusion of oddities in the midst
+of which we seem to be lost. Beneath us lies always the immense blue
+background: Nagasaki illumined by moonlight, and the expanse of silvered,
+glittering water, which seems like a vaporous vision suspended in mid-
+air. Behind us is the great open temple, where the bonzes officiate, to
+the accompaniment of sacred bells and wooden clappers-looking, from where
+we sit, more like puppets than anything else, some squatting in rows like
+peaceful mummies, others executing rhythmical marches before the golden
+background where stand the gods. We do not laugh to-night, and speak but
+little, more forcibly struck by the scene than we were on the first
+night; we only look on, trying to understand. Suddenly, Yves, turning
+round, says:
+
+"Hullo! brother, there is your mousme!"
+
+Actually, there she is, behind him; Chrysantheme, almost on all fours,
+hidden between the paws of a great granite beast, half tiger, half dog,
+against which our fragile tent is leaning.
+
+"She pulled my trousers with her nails, for all the world like a little
+cat," said Yves, still full of surprise, "positively like a cat!"
+
+She remains bent double in the most humble form of salutation; she smiles
+timidly, afraid of being ill received, and the head of my little brother-
+in-law, Bambou, appears smiling too, just above her own. She has brought
+this little mousko--[Mousko is the masculine of mousme, and signifies
+little boy. Excessive politeness makes it mousko-san (Mr. little boy).]
+--with her, perched astride her back; he looks as absurd as ever, with
+his shaven head, his long frock and the great bows of his silken sash.
+There they stand gazing at us, anxious to know how their joke will be
+taken.
+
+For my part, I have not the least idea of giving them a cold reception;
+on the contrary, the meeting amuses me. It even strikes me that it is
+rather pretty of Chrysantheme to come around in this way, and to bring
+Bambou-San to the festival; though it savors somewhat of her low
+breeding, to tell the truth, to carry him on her back, as the poorer
+Japanese women carry their little ones.
+
+However, let her sit down between Yves and myself and let them bring her
+those iced beans she loves so much; and we will take the jolly little
+mousko on our knees and cram him with sugar and sweetmeats to his heart's
+content.
+
+When the evening is over, and we begin to think of leaving, and of going
+down again, Chrysantheme replaces her little Bambou astride upon her
+back, and sets forth, bending forward under his weight and painfully
+dragging her Cinderella slippers over the granite steps and flagstones.
+Yes, decidedly low, this conduct! but low in the best sense of the word:
+nothing in it displeases me; I even consider Chrysantheme's affection for
+Bambou-San engaging and attractive in its simplicity.
+
+One can not deny this merit to the Japanese--a great love for little
+children, and a talent for amusing them, for making them laugh, inventing
+comical toys for them, making the morning of their life happy; for a
+specialty in dressing them, arranging their heads, and giving to the
+whole personage the most fascinating appearance possible. It is the only
+thing I really like about this country: the babies and the manner in
+which they are understood.
+
+On our way we meet our married friends of the Triomphante, who, much
+surprised at seeing me with this mousko, jokingly exclaim:
+
+"What! a son already?"
+
+Down in the town, we make a point of bidding goodby to Chrysantheme at
+the turning of the street where her mother lives. She smiles, undecided,
+declares herself well again, and begs to return to our house on the
+heights. This did not precisely enter into my plans, I confess.
+However, it would look very ungracious to refuse.
+
+So be it! But we must carry the mousko home to his mamma, and then
+begin, by the flickering light of a new lantern bought from Madame Tres-
+Propre, our weary homeward ascent.
+
+Here, however, we find ourselves in another predicament: this ridiculous
+little Bambou insists upon coming with us! No, he will take no denial,
+we must take him with us. This is out of all reason, quite impossible!
+
+However, it will not do to make him cry, on the night of a great festival
+too, poor little mousko! So we must send a message to Madame Renoncule,
+that she may not be uneasy about him, and as there will soon not be a
+living creature on the footpaths of Diou-djen-dji to laugh at us, we will
+take it in turn, Yves and I, to carry him on our backs, all the way up
+that climb in the darkness.
+
+And here am I, who did not wish to return this way tonight, dragging a
+mousme by the hand, and actually carrying an extra burden in the shape of
+a mousko on my back. What an irony of fate!
+
+As I had expected, all our shutters and doors are closed, bolted, and
+barred; no one expects us, and we have to make a prodigious noise at the
+door. Chrysantheme sets to work and calls with all her might
+
+"Hou Oume-San-an-an-an!" (In English: "Hi! Madame Pru-u-uu-une!")
+
+These intonations in her little voice are unknown to me; her long-drawn
+call in the echoing darkness of midnight has so strange an accent,
+something so unexpected and wild, that it impresses me with a dismal
+feeling of far-off exile.
+
+At last Madame Prune appears to open the door to us, only half awake and
+much astonished; by way of a nightcap she wears a monstrous cotton
+turban, on the blue ground of which a few white storks are playfully
+disporting themselves. Holding in the tips of her fingers, with an
+affectation of graceful fright, the long stalk of her beflowered lantern,
+she gazes intently into our faces, one after another, to reassure herself
+of our identity; but the poor old lady can not get over her surprise at
+the sight of the mousko I am carrying.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXVII
+
+COMPLICATIONS
+
+At first it was only to Chrysantheme's guitar that I listened with
+pleasure now I am beginning to like her singing also.
+
+She has nothing of the theatrical, or the deep, assumed voice of the
+virtuoso; on the contrary, her notes, always very high, are soft, thin,
+and plaintive.
+
+She often teaches Oyouki some romance, slow and dreamy, which she has
+composed, or which comes back to her mind. Then they both astonish me,
+for on their well-tuned guitars they will pick out accompaniments in
+parts, and try again each time that the chords are not perfectly true to
+their ear, without ever losing themselves in the confusion of these
+dissonant harmonies, always weird and always melancholy.
+
+Usually, while their music is going on, I am writing on the veranda, with
+the superb panorama before me. I write, seated on a mat on the floor and
+leaning upon a little Japanese desk, ornamented with swallows in relief;
+my ink is Chinese, my inkstand, just like that of my landlord, is in
+jade, with dear little frogs and toads carved on the rim. In short, I am
+writing my memoirs,--exactly as M. Sucre does downstairs! Occasionally I
+fancy I resemble him--a very disagreeable fancy.
+
+My memoirs are composed of incongruous details, minute observations of
+colors, shapes, scents, and sounds.
+
+It is true that a complete imbroglio, worthy of a romance, seems ever
+threatening to appear upon my monotonous horizon; a regular intrigue
+seems ever ready to explode in the midst of this little world of mousmes
+and grasshoppers: Chrysantheme in love with Yves; Yves with Chrysantheme;
+Oyouki with me; I with no one. We might even find here, ready to hand,
+the elements of a fratricidal drama, were we in any other country than
+Japan; but we are in Japan, and under the narrowing and dwarfing
+influence of the surroundings, which turn everything into ridicule,
+nothing will come of it all.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXVIII
+
+THE HEIGHT OF SOCIABILITY!
+
+In this fine town of Nagasaki, about five or six o'clock in the evening,
+one hour of the day is more comical than any other. At that moment every
+human being is naked: children, young people, old people, old men, old
+women--every one is seated in a tub of some sort, taking a bath. This
+ceremony takes place no matter where, without the slightest screen, in
+the gardens, the courtyards, in the shops, even upon the thresholds, in
+order to give greater facility for conversation among the neighbors from
+one side of the street to the other. In this situation visitors are
+received; and the bather, without any hesitation, leaves his tub, holding
+in his hand his little towel (invariably blue), to offer the caller a
+seat, and to exchange with him some polite remarks. Nevertheless,
+neither the mousmes nor the old ladies gain anything by appearing in this
+primeval costume. A Japanese woman, deprived of her long robe and her
+huge sash with its pretentious bows, is nothing but a diminutive yellow
+being, with crooked legs and flat, unshapely bust; she has no longer a
+remnant of her little artificial charms, which have completely
+disappeared in company with her costume.
+
+There is yet another hour, at once joyous and melancholy, a little later,
+when twilight falls, when the sky seems one vast veil of yellow, against
+which stand the clear-cut outlines of jagged mountains and lofty,
+fantastic pagodas. It is the hour at which, in the labyrinth of little
+gray streets below, the sacred lamps begin to twinkle in the ever-open
+houses, in front of the ancestor's altars and the familiar Buddhas;
+while, outside, darkness creeps over all, and the thousand and one
+indentations and peaks of the old roofs are depicted, as if in black
+festoons, on the clear golden sky. At this moment, over merry, laughing
+Japan, suddenly passes a sombre shadow, strange, weird, a breath of
+antiquity, of savagery, of something indefinable, which casts a gloom of
+sadness. And then the only gayety that remains is the gayety of the
+young children, of little mouskos and little mousmes, who spread
+themselves like a wave through the streets filled with shadow, as they
+swarm from schools and workshops. On the dark background of all these
+wooden buildings, the little blue and scarlet dresses stand out in
+startling contrast,--drolly bedizened, drolly draped; and the fine loops
+of the sashes, the flowers, the silver or gold topknots stuck in these
+baby chignons, add to the vivid effect.
+
+They amuse themselves, they chase one another, their great pagoda sleeves
+fly wide open, and these tiny little mousmes of ten, of five years old,
+or even younger still, have lofty head-dresses and imposing bows of hair
+arranged on their little heads, like grown-up women. Oh! what loves of
+supremely absurd dolls at this hour of twilight gambol through the
+streets, in their long frocks, blowing their crystal trumpets, or running
+with all their might to start their fanciful kites. This juvenile world
+of Japan--ludicrous by birth, and fated to become more so as the years
+roll on--starts in life with singular amusements, with strange cries and
+shouts; its playthings are somewhat ghastly, and would frighten the
+children of other countries; even the kites have great squinting eyes and
+vampire shapes.
+
+And every evening, in the little dark streets, bursts forth the overflow
+of joyousness, fresh, childish, but withal grotesque to excess. It would
+be difficult to form any idea of the incredible things which, carried by
+the wind, float in the evening air.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXIX
+
+A LADY OF JAPAN
+
+My little Chrysantheme is always attired in dark colors, a sign here of
+aristocratic distinction. While her friends Oyouki-San, Madame Touki,
+and others, delight in gay-striped stuffs, and thrust gorgeous ornaments
+in their chignons, she always wears navy-blue or neutral gray, fastened
+round her waist with great black sashes brocaded in tender shades, and
+she puts nothing in her hair but amber-colored tortoiseshell pins. If
+she were of noble descent she would wear embroidered on her dress in the
+middle of the back a little white circle looking like a postmark with
+some design in the centre of it--usually the leaf of a tree; and this
+would be her coat-of-arms. There is really nothing wanting but this
+little heraldic blazon on the back to give her the appearance of a lady
+of the highest rank.
+
+In Japan the smart dresses of bright colors shaded in clouds, embroidered
+with monsters of gold or silver, are reserved by the great ladies for
+home use on state occasions; or else they are used on the stage for
+dancers and courtesans.
+
+Like all Japanese women, Chrysantheme carries a quantity of things in her
+long sleeves, in which pockets are cunningly hidden. There she keeps
+letters, various notes written on delicate sheets of rice-paper, prayer
+amulets drawn up by the bonzes; and above all a number of squares of a
+silky paper which she puts to the most unexpected uses--to dry a teacup,
+to hold the damp stalk of a flower, or to blow her quaint little nose,
+when the necessity presents itself. After the operation she at once
+crumples up the piece of paper, rolls it into a ball, and throws it out
+of the window with disgust.
+
+The very smartest people in Japan blow their noses in this manner.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XL
+
+OUR FRIENDS THE BONZES
+
+September 2d.
+
+Fate has favored us with a friendship as strange as it is rare: that of
+the head bonzes of the temple of the jumping Tortoise, where we witnessed
+last month such a surprising pilgrimage.
+
+The approach to this place is as solitary now as it was thronged and
+bustling on the evenings of the festival; and in broad daylight one is
+surprised at the deathlike decay of the sacred surroundings which at
+night had seemed so full of life. Not a creature to be seen on the time-
+worn granite steps; not a creature beneath the vast, sumptuous porticoes;
+the colors, the gold-work are dim with dust. To reach the temple one
+must cross several deserted courtyards terraced on the mountain-side,
+pass through several solemn gateways, and up and up endless stairs rising
+far above the town and the noises of humanity into a sacred region filled
+with innumerable tombs. On all the pavements, in all the walls, are
+lichen and stonecrop; and over all the, gray tint of extreme age spreads
+like a fall of ashes.
+
+In a side temple near the entrance is enthroned a colossal Buddha seated
+in his lotus--a gilded idol from forty-five to sixty feet high, mounted
+on an enormous bronze pedestal.
+
+At length appears the last doorway with the two traditional giants,
+guardians of the sacred court, which stand the one on the right hand,
+the other on the left, shut up like wild beasts, each in an iron cage.
+They are in attitudes of fury, with fists upraised as if to strike, and
+features atrociously fierce and distorted. Their bodies are covered with
+bullets of crumbled paper, which have been aimed at them through the
+bars, and which have stuck to their monstrous limbs, producing an
+appearance of white leprosy: this is the manner in which the faithful
+strive to appease them, by conveying to them their prayers written upon
+delicate leaflets by the pious bonzes.
+
+Passing between these alarming scarecrows, one reaches the innermost
+court. The residence of our friends is on the right, the great hall of
+the pagoda is before us.
+
+In this paved court are bronze torch-holders as high as turrets. Here,
+too, stand, and have stood for centuries, cyca palms with fresh, green
+plumes, their numerous stalks curving with a heavy symmetry, like the
+branches of massive candelabra. The temple, which is open along its
+entire length, is dark and mysterious, with touches of gilding in distant
+corners melting away into the gloom. In the very remotest part are
+seated idols, and from outside one can vaguely see their clasped hands
+and air of rapt mysticism; in front are the altars, loaded with
+marvellous vases in metalwork, whence spring graceful clusters of gold
+and silver lotus. From the very entrance one is greeted by the sweet
+odor of the incense-sticks unceasingly burned by the priests before the
+gods.
+
+To penetrate into the dwelling of our friends the bonzes, which is
+situated on the right side as you enter, is by no means an easy matter.
+
+A monster of the fish tribe, but having claws and horns, is hung over
+their door by iron chains; at the least breath of wind he swings
+creakingly. We pass beneath him and enter the first vast and lofty hall,
+dimly lighted, in the corners of which gleam gilded idols, bells, and
+incomprehensible objects of religious use.
+
+Quaint little creatures, choir-boys or pupils, come forward with a
+doubtful welcome to ask what is wanted.
+
+"Matsou-San!! Dondta-San!!" they repeat, much astonished, when they
+understand to whom we wish to be conducted. Oh! no, impossible, they
+can not be seen; they are resting or are in contemplation. "Orimas!
+Orimas!" say they, clasping their hands and sketching a genuflection or
+two to make us understand better. ("They are at prayer! the most
+profound prayer!")
+
+We insist, speak more imperatively; even slip off our shoes like people
+determined to take no refusal.
+
+At last Matsou-San and Donata-San make their appearance from the tranquil
+depths of their bonze-house. They are dressed in black crape and their
+heads are shaved. Smiling, amiable, full of excuses, they offer us their
+hands, and we follow, with our feet bare like theirs, to the interior of
+their mysterious dwelling, through a series of empty rooms spread with
+mats of the most unimpeachable whiteness. The successive halls are
+separated one from the other only by bamboo curtains of exquisite
+delicacy, caught back by tassels and cords of red silk.
+
+The whole wainscoting of the interior is of the same wood, of a pale
+yellow shade made with extreme nicety, without the least ornament, the
+least carving; everything seems new and unused, as if it had never been
+touched by human hand. At distant intervals in this studied bareness,
+costly little stools, marvellously inlaid, uphold some antique bronze
+monster or a vase of flowers; on the walls hang a few masterly sketches,
+vaguely tinted in Indian ink, drawn upon strips of gray paper most
+accurately cut but without the slightest attempt at a frame. This is
+all: not a seat, not a cushion, not a scrap of furniture. It is the very
+acme of studied simplicity, of elegance made out of nothing, of the most
+immaculate and incredible cleanliness. And while following the bonzes
+through this long suite of empty halls, we are struck by their contrast
+with the overflow of knickknacks scattered about our rooms in France, and
+we take a sudden dislike to the profusion and crowding delighted in at
+home.
+
+The spot where this silent march of barefooted folk comes to an end, the
+spot where we are to seat ourselves in the delightful coolness of a semi-
+darkness, is an interior veranda opening upon an artificial site. We
+might suppose it the bottom of a well; it is a miniature garden no bigger
+than the opening of an oubliette, overhung on all sides by the crushing
+height of the mountain and receiving from on high but the dim light of
+dreamland. Nevertheless, here is simulated a great natural ravine in all
+its wild grandeur: here are caverns, abrupt rocks, a torrent, a cascade,
+islands. The trees, dwarfed by a Japanese process of which we have not
+the secret, have tiny little leaves on their decrepit and knotty
+branches. A pervading hue of the mossy green of antiquity harmonizes all
+this medley, which is undoubtedly centuries old.
+
+Families of goldfish swim round and round in the clear water, and tiny
+tortoises (jumpers probably) sleep upon the granite islands, which are of
+the same color as their own gray shells.
+
+There are even blue dragon-flies which have ventured to descend, heaven
+knows whence, and alight with quivering wings upon the miniature water-
+lilies.
+
+Our friends the bonzes, notwithstanding an unctuousness of manner
+thoroughly ecclesiastical, are very ready to laugh--a simple, pleased,
+childish laughter; plump, chubby, shaven and shorn, they dearly love our
+French liqueurs and know how to take a joke.
+
+We talk first of one thing and then another. To the tranquil music of
+their little cascade, I launch out before them with phrases of the most
+erudite Japanese, I try the effect of a few tenses of verbs:
+'desideratives, concessives, hypothetics in ba'. While they chant they
+despatch the affairs of the church: the order of services sealed with
+complicated seals for inferior pagodas situated in the neighborhood; or
+trace little prayers with a cunning paint-brush, as medical remedies to
+be swallowed like pills by invalids at a distance. With their white and
+dimpled hands they play with a fan as cleverly as any woman, and when we
+have tasted different native drinks, flavored with essences of flowers,
+they bring up as a finish a bottle of Benedictine or Chartreuse, for they
+appreciate the liqueurs composed by their Western colleagues.
+
+When they come on board to return our visits, they by no means disdain
+to fasten their great round spectacles on their flat noses in order to
+inspect the profane drawings in our illustrated papers, the 'Vie
+Parisienne' for instance. And it is even with a certain complacency that
+they let their fingers linger upon the pictures representing women.
+
+The religious ceremonies in their great temple are magnificent, and to
+one of these we are now invited. At the sound of the gong they make
+their entrance before the idols with a stately ritual; twenty or thirty
+priests officiate in gala costumes, with genuflections, clapping of hands
+and movements to and fro, which look like the figures of some mystic
+quadrille.
+
+But for all that, let the sanctuary be ever so immense and imposing in
+its sombre gloom, the idols ever so superb, all seems in Japan but a mere
+semblance of grandeur. A hopeless pettiness, an irresistible effect the
+ludicrous, lies at the bottom of all things.
+
+And then the congregation is not conducive to thoughtful contemplation,
+for among it we usually discover some acquaintance: my mother-in-law, or
+a cousin, or the woman from the china-shop who sold us a vase only
+yesterday. Charming little mousmes, monkeyish-looking old ladies enter
+with their smoking-boxes, their gayly daubed parasols, their curtseys,
+their little cries and exclamations; prattling, complimenting one
+another, full of restless movement, and having the greatest difficulty in
+maintaining a serious demeanor.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XLI
+
+AN UNEXPECTED CALL
+
+September 3d.
+
+My little Chrysantheme for the first time visited me on board-ship to
+day, chaperoned by Madame Prune, and followed by my youngest sister in-
+law, Mademoiselle La Neige. These ladies had the tranquil manners of the
+highest gentility. In my cabin is a great Buddha on his throne, and
+before him is a lacquer tray, on which my faithful sailor servant places
+any small change he may find in the pockets of my clothes. Madame Prune,
+whose mind is much swayed by mysticism, at once supposed herself before a
+regular altar; in the gravest manner possible she addressed a brief
+prayer to the god; then drawing out her purse (which, according to
+custom, was attached to her sash behind her back, along with her little
+pipe and tobacco-pouch), placed a pious offering in the tray, while
+executing a low curtsey.
+
+They were on their best behavior throughout the visit. But when the
+moment of departure came, Chrysantheme, who would not go away without
+seeing Yves, asked for him with a thinly veiled persistency which was
+remarkable. Yves, for whom I then sent, made himself particularly
+charming to her, so much so that this time I felt a shade of more serious
+annoyance; I even asked myself whether the laughably pitiable ending,
+which I had hitherto vaguely foreseen, might not, after all, soon break
+upon us.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XLII
+
+AN ORIENTAL VISION
+
+September 4th.
+
+Yesterday I encountered, in an ancient and ruined quarter of the town, a
+perfectly exquisite mousme, charmingly dressed; a fresh touch of color
+against the sombre background of decayed buildings.
+
+I met her at the farthest end of Nagasaki, in the most ancient part of
+the town. In this region are trees centuries old, antique temples of
+Buddha, of Amiddah, of Benten, or Kwanon, with steep and pompous roofs;
+monsters carved in granite sit there in courtyards silent as the grave,
+where the grass grows between the stones. This deserted quarter is
+traversed by a narrow torrent running in a deep channel, across which are
+thrown little curved bridges with granite balustrades eaten away by
+lichen. All the objects there wear the strange grimace, the quaint
+arrangement familiar to us in the most antique Japanese drawings.
+
+I walked through it all at the burning hour of midday, and saw not a
+soul, unless, indeed, through the open windows of the bonze-houses,
+I caught sight of some few priests, guardians of tombs or sanctuaries,
+taking their siesta under dark-blue gauze nets.
+
+Suddenly this little mousme appeared, a little above me, just at the
+point of the arch of one of these bridges carpeted with gray moss; she
+was in full sunshine, and stood out in brilliant clearness, like a fairy
+vision, against the background of old black temples and deep shadows.
+She was holding her robe together with one hand, gathering it close round
+her ankles to give herself an air of greater slimness. Over her quaint
+little head, her round umbrella with its thousand ribs threw a great halo
+of blue and red, edged with black, and an oleander-tree full of flowers,
+growing among the stones of the bridge, spread its glory beside her,
+bathed, like herself, in the sunshine. Behind this youthful figure and
+this flowering shrub all was blackness. Upon the pretty red and blue
+parasol great white letters formed this inscription, much used among the
+mousmes, and which I have learned to recognize: 'Stop! clouds, to see her
+pass!' And it was really worth the trouble to stop and look at this
+exquisite little person, of a type so ideally Japanese.
+
+However, it will not do to stop too long and be ensnared--it would only
+be another delusion. A doll like the rest, evidently, an ornament for a
+china shelf, and nothing more. While I gaze at her, I say to myself that
+Chrysantheme, appearing in this same place, with this dress, this play of
+light, and this aureole of sunshine, would produce just as delightful an
+effect.
+
+For Chrysantheme is pretty, there can be no doubt about it. Yesterday
+evening, in fact, I positively admired her. It was quite night; we were
+returning with the usual escort of little married couples like ourselves,
+from the inevitable tour of the tea-houses and bazaars. While the other
+mousmes walked along hand in hand, adorned with new silver topknots which
+they had succeeded in having presented to them, and amusing themselves
+with playthings, she, pleading fatigue, followed, half reclining, in a
+djin carriage. We had placed beside her great bunches of flowers
+destined to fill our vases, late iris and long-stemmed lotus, the last of
+the season, already smelling of autumn. And it was really very pretty to
+see this Japanese girl in her little car, lying carelessly among all
+these water-flowers, lighted by gleams of ever-changing colors, as they
+chanced from the lanterns we met or passed. If, on the evening of my
+arrival in Japan, any one had pointed her out to me, and said: "That
+shall be your mousme," there can not be a doubt I should have been
+charmed. In reality, however, I am not charmed; it is only Chrysantheme,
+always Chrysantheme, nothing but Chrysantheme: a mere plaything to laugh
+at, a little creature of finical forms and thoughts, with whom the agency
+of M. Kangourou has supplied me.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XLIII
+
+THE CATS AND THE DOLLS
+
+The water used for drinking in our house, for making tea, and for lesser
+washing purposes, is kept in large white china tubs, decorated with
+paintings representing blue fish borne along by a swift current through
+distorted rushes. In order to keep them cool, the tubs are kept out of
+doors on Madame Prune's roof, at a place where we can, from the top of
+our projecting balcony, easily reach them by stretching out an arm. A
+real godsend for all the thirsty cats in the neighborhood, on warm summer
+nights, is this corner of the roof with our gayly painted tubs, and it
+proves a delightful trysting-place for them, after all their caterwauling
+and long solitary rambles on the tops of the walls.
+
+I had thought it my duty to warn Yves the first time he wished to drink
+this water.
+
+"Oh!" he replied, rather surprised, "cats, do you say? But they are not
+dirty!"
+
+On this point Chrysantheme and I agree with him: we do not consider cats
+unclean animals, and we do not object to drink after them.
+
+Yves considers Chrysantheme much in the same light. "She is not dirty,
+either," he says; and he willingly drinks after her, out of the same cup,
+putting her in the same category with the cats.
+
+These china tubs are one of the daily preoccupations of our household: in
+the evening, when we return from our walk, after the clamber up, which
+makes us thirsty, and Madame L'Heure's waffles, which we have been eating
+to beguile the way, we always find them empty. It seems impossible for
+Madame Prune, or Mademoiselle Oyouki, or their young servant,
+Mademoiselle Dede,--[Dede-San means "Miss Young Girl," a very common
+name.]--to have forethought enough to fill them while it is still
+daylight. And when we are late in returning home, these three ladies are
+asleep, so we are obliged to attend to the business ourselves.
+
+We must therefore open all the closed doors, put on our boots, and go
+down into the garden to draw water.
+
+As Chrysantheme would die of fright all alone in the dark, in the midst
+of the trees and buzzing of insects, I am obliged to accompany her to the
+well. For this expedition we require a light, and must seek among the
+quantity of lanterns purchased at Madame Tres-Propre's booth, which have
+been thrown night after night into the bottom of one of our little paper
+closets; but alas, all the candles are burned down! I thought as much!
+Well, we must resolutely take the first lantern to hand, and stick a
+fresh candle on the iron point at the bottom; Chrysantheme puts forth all
+her strength, the candle splits, breaks; the mousme pricks her fingers,
+pouts and whimpers. Such is the inevitable scene that takes place every
+evening, and delays our retiring to rest under the dark-blue gauze net
+for a good quarter of an hour; while the cicalas on the roof seem to mock
+us with their ceaseless song.
+
+All this, which I should find amusing in any one else,--any one I loved
+--irritates me in her.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XLIV
+
+TENDER MINISTRATIONS
+
+September 11th.
+
+A week has passed very quietly, during which I have written nothing.
+
+By degrees I am becoming accustomed to my Japanese household, to the
+strangeness of the language, costumes, and faces. For the last three
+weeks no letters have arrived from Europe; they have no doubt miscarried,
+and their absence contributes, as is usually the case, to throw a veil of
+oblivion over the past.
+
+Every day, therefore, I climb up to my villa, sometimes by beautiful
+starlit nights, sometimes through downpours of rain. Every morning as
+the sound of Madame Prune's chanted prayer rises through the
+reverberating air, I awake and go down toward the sea, by grassy pathways
+full of dew.
+
+The chief occupation in Japan seems to be a perpetual hunt after curios.
+We sit down on the mattings, in the antique-sellers' little booths,
+taking a cup of tea with the salesmen, and rummage with our own hands in
+the cupboards and chests, where many a fantastic piece of old rubbish is
+huddled away. The bargaining, much discussed, is laughingly carried on
+for several days, as if we were trying to play off some excellent little
+practical joke upon each other.
+
+I really make a sad abuse of the adjective little; I am quite aware of
+it, but how can I do otherwise? In describing this country, the
+temptation is great to use it ten times in every written line. Little,
+finical; affected,--all Japan is contained, both physically and morally,
+in these three words.
+
+My purchases are accumulating in my little wood and paper house; but how
+much more Japanese it really was, in its bare emptiness, such as M. Sucre
+and Madame Prune had conceived it. There are now many lamps of sacred
+symbolism hanging from the ceiling; many stools and many vases, as many
+gods and goddesses as in a pagoda.
+
+There is even a little Shintoist altar, before which Madame Prune has not
+been able to restrain her feelings, and before which she has fallen down
+and chanted her prayers in her bleating, goat-like voice:
+
+"Wash me clean from all my impurity, O Ama-Terace-Omi-Kami! as one
+washes away uncleanness in the river of Kamo."
+
+Alas for poor Ama-Terace-Omi-Kami to have to wash away the impurities of
+Madame Prune! What a tedious and ungrateful task!!
+
+Chrysantheme, who is a Buddhist, prays sometimes in the evening before
+lying down; although overcome with sleep, she prays clapping her hands
+before the largest of our gilded idols. But she smiles with a childish
+disrespect for her Buddha, as soon as her prayer is ended. I know that
+she has also a certain veneration for her Ottokes (the spirits of her
+ancestors), whose rather sumptuous altar is set up at the house of her
+mother, Madame Renoncule. She asks for their blessings, for fortune and
+wisdom.
+
+Who can fathom her ideas about the gods, or about death? Does she
+possess a soul? Does she think she has one? Her religion is an obscure
+chaos of theogonies as old as the world, treasured up out of respect for
+ancient customs; and of more recent ideas about the blessed final
+annihilation, imported from India by saintly Chinese missionaries at the
+epoch of our Middle Ages. The bonzes themselves are puzzled; what a
+muddle, therefore, must not all this become, when jumbled together in the
+childish brain of a sleepy mousme!
+
+Two very insignificant episodes have somewhat attached me to her--(bonds
+of this kind seldom fail to draw closer in the end). The first occasion
+was as follows:
+
+Madame Prune one day brought forth a relic of her gay youth, a tortoise-
+shell comb of rare transparency, one of those combs that it is good style
+to place on the summit of the head, lightly poised, hardly stuck at all
+in the hair, with all the teeth showing. Taking it out of a pretty
+little lacquered box, she held it up in the air and blinked her eyes,
+looking through it at the sky--a bright summer sky--as one does to
+examine the quality of a precious stone.
+
+"Here is," she said, "an object of great value that you should offer to
+your little wife."
+
+My mousme, very much taken by it, admired the clearness of the comb and
+its graceful shape.
+
+The lacquered box, however, pleased me more. On the cover was a
+wonderful painting in gold on gold, representing a field of rice, seen
+very close, on a windy day; a tangle of ears and grass beaten down and
+twisted by a terrible squall; here and there, between the distorted
+stalks, the muddy earth of the rice-swamp was visible; there were even
+little pools of water, produced by bits of the transparent lacquer on
+which tiny particles of gold seemed to float about like chaff in a thick
+liquid; two or three insects, which required a microscope to be well
+seen, were clinging in a terrified manner to the rushes, and the whole
+picture was no larger than a woman's hand.
+
+As for Madame Prune's comb, I confess it left me indifferent, and I
+turned a deaf ear, thinking it very insignificant and expensive. Then
+Chrysantheme answered, mournfully:
+
+"No, thank you, I don't want it; take it away, dear Madame Prune."
+
+And at the same time she heaved a deep sigh, full of meaning, which
+plainly said:
+
+"He is not so fond of me as all that.--Useless to bother him."
+
+I immediately made the wished-for purchase.
+
+Later when Chrysantheme will have become an old monkey like Madame Prune,
+with her black teeth and long orisons, she, in her turn, will retail that
+comb to some fine lady of a fresh generation.
+
+On another occasion the sun had given me a headache; I lay on the floor
+resting my head on my snake-skin pillow. My eyes were dim; and
+everything appeared to turn around: the open veranda, the big expanse of
+luminous evening sky, and a variety of kites hovering against its
+background. I felt myself vibrating painfully to the rhythmical sound of
+the cicalas which filled the atmosphere.
+
+She, crouching by my side, strove to relieve me by a Japanese process,
+pressing with all her might on my temples with her little thumbs and
+turning them rapidly around, as if she were boring a hole with a gimlet.
+She had become quite hot and red over this hard work, which procured me
+real comfort, something similar to the dreamy intoxication of opium.
+
+Then, anxious and fearful lest I should have an attack of fever, she
+rolled into a pellet and thrust into my mouth a very efficacious prayer
+written on rice-paper, which she had kept carefully in the lining of one
+of her sleeves.
+
+Well, I swallowed that prayer without a smile, not wishing to hurt her
+feelings or shake her funny little faith.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XLV
+
+TWO FAIR ARISTOCRATS
+
+Today, Yves, my mousme and I went to the best photographer in Nagasaki,
+to be taken in a group. We shall send the picture to France. Yves
+laughs as he thinks of his wife's astonishment when she sees
+Chrysantheme's little face between us, and he wonders how he shall
+explain it to her.
+
+"I shall just say it is one of your friends, that's all!" he says to me.
+
+In Japan there are many photographers like our own, with this difference,
+that they are Japanese, and inhabit Japanese houses. The one we intend
+to honor to-day carries on his business in the suburbs, in that ancient
+quarter of big trees and gloomy pagodas where, the other day, I met the
+pretty little mousme. His signboard, written in several languages, is
+posted against a wall on the edge of the little torrent which, rushing
+down from the green mountain above, is crossed by many a curved bridge of
+old granite and lined on either side with light bamboos or oleanders in
+full bloom.
+
+It is astonishing and puzzling to find a photographer perched there, in
+the very heart of old Japan.
+
+We have come at the wrong moment; there is a file of people at the door.
+Long rows of djins' cars are stationed there, awaiting the customers they
+have brought, who will all have their turn before us. The runners, naked
+and tattooed, their hair carefully combed in sleek bands and shiny
+chignons, are chatting, smoking little pipes, or bathing their muscular
+legs in the fresh water of the torrent.
+
+The courtyard is irreproachably Japanese, with its lanterns and dwarf
+trees. But the studio where one poses might be in Paris or Pontoise; the
+self-same chair in "old oak," the same faded "poufs," plaster columns,
+and pasteboard rocks.
+
+The people who are being photographed at this moment are two ladies of
+quality, evidently mother and daughter, who are sitting together for a
+cabinet-size portrait, with accessories of the time of Louis XV. A
+strange group this, the first great ladies of this country I have seen so
+near, with their long, aristocratic faces, dull, lifeless, almost gray by
+dint of rice-powder, and their mouths painted heart-shape in vivid
+carmine. Withal they have an undeniable look of good breeding that
+strongly impresses us, notwithstanding the intrinsic differences of race
+and acquired notions.
+
+They scanned Chrysantheme with a look of obvious scorn, although her
+costume was as ladylike as their own. For my part, I could not take my
+eyes off these two creatures; they captivated me like incomprehensible
+things that one never had seen before. Their fragile bodies,
+outlandishly graceful in posture, are lost in stiff materials and
+redundant sashes, of which the ends droop like tired wings. They make me
+think, I know not why, of great rare insects; the extraordinary patterns
+on their garments have something of the dark motley of night-moths.
+Above all, I ponder over the mystery of their tiny slits of eyes, drawn
+back and up so far that the tight-drawn lids can hardly open; the mystery
+of their expression, which seems to denote inner thoughts of a silly,
+vague, complacent absurdity, a world of ideas absolutely closed to
+ourselves. And I think as I gaze at them: "How far we are from this
+Japanese people! how totally dissimilar are our races!"
+
+We are compelled to let several English sailors pass before us, decked
+out in their white drill clothes, fresh, fat, and pink, like little sugar
+figures, who attitudinize in a sheepish manner around the shafts of the
+columns.
+
+At last it is our turn; Chrysantheme settles herself slowly in a very
+affected style, turning in the points of her toes as much as possible,
+according to the fashion.
+
+And on the negative shown to us we look like a supremely ridiculous
+little family drawn up in a line by a common photographer at a fair.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XLVI
+
+GRAVE SUSPICIONS
+
+September 13th.
+
+Tonight Yves is off duty three hours earlier than I; occasionally this
+happens, according to the arrangement of the watches. At those times he
+lands first, and goes up to wait for me at Diou-djen-dji.
+
+From the deck I can see him through my glass, climbing up the green
+mountain-path; he walks with a brisk, rapid step, almost running; what a
+hurry he seems in to rejoin little Chrysantheme!
+
+When I arrive, about nine o'clock, I find him seated on the floor, in the
+middle of my rooms, with naked torso (this is a sufficiently proper
+costume for private life here, I admit). Around him are grouped
+Chrysantheme, Oyouki, and Mademoiselle Dede the maid, all eagerly rubbing
+his back with little blue towels decorated with storks and humorous
+subjects.
+
+Good heavens! what can he have been doing to be so hot, and to have put
+himself in such a state?
+
+He tells me that near our house, a little farther up the mountain, he has
+discovered a fencing-gallery: that till nightfall he had been engaged in
+a fencing-bout against Japanese, who fought with two-handed swords,
+springing like cats, as is the custom of their country. With his French
+method of fencing, he had given them a good drubbing. Upon which, with
+many a low bow, they had shown him their admiration by bringing him a
+quantity of nice little iced things to drink. All this combined had
+thrown him into a fearful perspiration.
+
+Ah, very well! Nevertheless, this did not quite explain to me!
+
+He is delighted with his evening; intends to go and amuse himself every
+day by beating them; he even thinks of taking pupils.
+
+Once his back is dried, all together, the three mousmes and himself, play
+at Japanese pigeon-vole. Really I could not wish for anything more
+innocent, or more correct in every respect.
+
+Charles N---- and Madame Jonquille, his wife, arrived unexpectedly about
+ten o'clock. (They were wandering about in the dark shrubberies in our
+neighborhood, and, seeing our lights, came up to us.)
+
+They intend to finish the evening at the tea-house of the toads, and they
+try to induce us to go and drink some iced sherbets with them. It is at
+least an hour's walk from here, on the other side of the town, halfway up
+the hill, in the gardens of the large pagoda dedicated to Osueva; but
+they stick to their idea, pretending that in this clear night and bright
+moonlight we shall have a lovely view from the terrace of the temple.
+
+Lovely, I have no doubt, but we had intended going to bed. However, be
+it so, let us go with them.
+
+We hire five djins and five cars down below, in the principal street, in
+front of Madame Tres-Propre's shop, who, for this late expedition,
+chooses for us her largest round lanterns-big, red balloons, decorated
+with starfish, seaweed, and green sharks.
+
+It is nearly eleven o'clock when we make our start. In the central
+quarters the virtuous Nipponese are already closing their little booths,
+putting out their lamps, shutting the wooden framework, drawing their
+paper panels.
+
+Farther on, in the old-fashioned suburban streets, all is shut up long
+ago, and our carts roll on through the black night. We cry out to our
+djins: "Ayakou! ayakou!" ("Quick! quick!")and they run as hard as they
+can, uttering little shrieks, like merry animals full of wild gayety.
+We rush like a whirlwind through the darkness, all five in Indian file,
+dashing and jolting over the old, uneven flagstones, dimly lighted up by
+our red balloons fluttering at the end of their bamboo stems. From time
+to time some Japanese, night-capped in his blue kerchief, opens a window
+to see who these noisy madcaps can be, dashing by so rapidly and so late.
+Or else some faint glimmer, thrown by us on our passage, discovers the
+hideous smile of a large stone animal seated at the gate of a pagoda.
+
+At last we arrive at the foot of Osueva's temple, and, leaving our djins
+with our little gigs, we clamber up the gigantic steps, completely
+deserted at this hour of the night.
+
+Chrysantheme, who always likes to play the part of a tired little girl,
+of a spoiled and pouting child, ascends slowly between Yves and myself,
+clinging to our arms.
+
+Jonquille, on the contrary, skips up like a bird, amusing herself by
+counting the endless steps.
+
+She lays a great stress on the accentuations, as if to make the numbers
+sound even more droll.
+
+A little silver aigrette glitters in her beautiful black coiffure; her
+delicate and graceful figure seems strangely fantastic, and the darkness
+that envelops us conceals the fact that her face is quite ugly, and
+almost without eyes.
+
+This evening Chrysantheme and Jonquille really look like little fairies;
+at certain moments the most insignificant Japanese have this appearance,
+by dint of whimsical elegance and ingenious arrangement.
+
+The granite stairs, imposing, deserted, uniformly gray under the
+nocturnal sky, appear to vanish into the empty space above us, and, when
+we turn round, to disappear in the depths beneath, to fall into the abyss
+with the dizzy rapidity of a dream. On the sloping steps the black
+shadows of the gateways through which we must pass stretch out
+indefinitely; and the shadows, which seem to be broken at each projecting
+step, look like the regular creases of a fan. The porticoes stand up
+separately, rising one above another; their wonderful shapes are at once
+remarkably simple and studiously affected; their outlines stand out sharp
+and distinct, having nevertheless the vague appearance of all very large
+objects in the pale moonlight. The curved architraves rise at each
+extremity like two menacing horns, pointing upward toward the far-off
+blue canopy of the star-spangled sky, as if they would communicate to the
+gods the knowledge they have acquired in the depths of their foundations
+from the earth, full of sepulchres and death, which surrounds them.
+
+We are, indeed, a very small group, lost now in the immensity of the
+colossal acclivity as we move onward, lighted partly by the wan moon,
+partly by the red lanterns we hold in our hands, floating at the ends of
+their long sticks.
+
+A deep silence reigns in the precincts of the temple, even the sound of
+insects is hushed as we ascend. A sort of reverence, a kind of religious
+fear steals over us, and, at the same moment, a delicious coolness
+suddenly pervades the air, and passes over us.
+
+On entering the courtyard above, we feel a little daunted. Here we find
+the horse in jade, and the china turrets. The enclosing walls make it
+the more gloomy, and our arrival seems to disturb I know not what
+mysterious council held between the spirits of the air and the visible
+symbols that are there, chimeras and monsters illuminated by the blue
+rays of the moon.
+
+We turn to the left, and go through the terraced gardens, to reach the
+tea-house of the toads, which this evening is our goal; we find it shut
+up--I expected as much--closed and dark, at this hour! We drum all
+together on the door; in the most coaxing tones we call by name the
+waiting-maids we know so well: Mademoiselle Transparente, Mademoiselle
+Etoile, Mademoiselle Rosee-matinale, and Mademoiselle Margueritereine.
+Not an answer. Good-by, perfumed sherbets and frosted beans!
+
+In front of the little archery-house our mousmes suddenly jump aside,
+terrified, declaring that there is a dead body on the ground. Yes,
+indeed, some one is lying there. We cautiously examine the place by the
+light of our red balloons, carefully held out at arm's length for fear of
+this dead man. It is only the marksman, he who on the 4th of July chose
+such magnificent arrows for Chrysantheme; and he sleeps, good man! with
+his chignon somewhat dishevelled, a sound sleep, which it would be cruel
+to disturb.
+
+Let us go to the end of the terrace, contemplate the harbor at our feet,
+and then return home. To-night the harbor looks like only a dark and
+sinister rent, which the moonbeams can not fathom--a yawning crevasse
+opening into the very bowels of the earth, at the bottom of which lie
+faint, small glimmers, an assembly of glowworms in a ditch--the lights of
+the different vessels lying at anchor.
+
+
+
+
+ETEXT EDITOR'S BOOKMARKS:
+
+Dull hours spent in idle and diffuse conversation
+Prayers swallowed like pills by invalids at a distance
+Trees, dwarfed by a Japanese process
+Which I should find amusing in any one else,--any one I loved
+
+
+
+
+End of this Project Gutenberg Etext of Madame Chrysantheme, v3
+by Pierre Loti
+
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