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Hawley + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Oriental Rugs + Antique and Modern + +Author: Walter A. Hawley + +Release Date: May 20, 2012 [EBook #39740] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ORIENTAL RUGS *** + + + + +Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Turgut Dincer and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="cover" id="cover"></a><img src="images/cover.jpg" + width="550" height="570" alt="cover" title="cover" /> + + <h4><i>COLOUR PLATE I</i></h4> + + <p><i>Section of the Holy Carpet of the Mosque of Ardebil, in the + Royal Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington, London. + Described on Pages 83 and 84.</i></p></div> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a><a href="images/frontisz.jpg"> + <img src="images/frontis.jpg" width="550" height="303" alt="SECTION OF THE HOLY CARPET OF THE MOSQUE AT ARDEBIL" title="" /></a> + </div> + + <h4>SECTION OF THE HOLY CARPET OF THE MOSQUE AT ARDEBIL,<br /> + Size: 34 ft. 6 in. by 17 ft. 6 in.</h4> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span class="i4"><span class="smcap">Translation of + Inscription.</span></span> <span class="i0"> </span> + <span class="i0">I have no refuge in the world other than thy + threshold,</span> <span class="i0">My head has no protection + other than this porchway;</span> <span class="i0">The work of + the Slave of this Holy Place.</span> <span class= + "i10">Maksoud of Kashan.</span> <span class="i13">946 A. H. = + 1540 A. D.</span> + </div> + </div> + + <h4>FORMERLY IN THE POSSESSION OF VINCENT ROBINSON & CO., + <span class="smcap">Ltd.</span>,<br /> + <small><span class="smcap">34 Wigmore Street, London</span>, + W.,</small></h4> + + <h4><small>And Sold by them in 1892 to</small><br /> + THE ROYAL VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, SOUTH KENSINGTON, + LONDON.</h4> + + <hr /> + + <h1>ORIENTAL RUGS</h1> + + <h3>ANTIQUE AND MODERN</h3> + + <h5>BY</h5> + + <h3>WALTER A. HAWLEY</h3> + + <h5><i>WITH ELEVEN FULL-PAGE PLATES IN COLOUR<br /> + EIGHTY HALF-TONE ENGRAVINGS<br /> + AND FOUR MAPS</i></h5> + + <h5>NEW YORK<br /> + DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY<br /> + 1927</h5> + + <h5><span class="smcap">Copyright, 1913<br /> + By John Lane Company</span></h5> + + <h5>Printed in U. S. A.</h5> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id= + "Page_v">v</a></span></p> + + <h3>PREFACE</h3> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/s.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="S" + title="S" /></span>INCE the appearance, in 1900, of the excellent work of Mr. + John Kimberly Mumford on Oriental Rugs, the public interest in + these fabrics has so largely increased that the author feels + warranted in offering this monograph, which aims to treat the + subject in a way that will not only appeal to the general reader + but be of value to the student.</p> + + <p>In the chapter entitled “Rug Weaving Before the XVIII + Century” is a brief review of some of the notable + achievements in this branch of art; and in order that the public + may as far as possible have access to the masterpieces described, + the carpets on exhibition in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in + New York have been given unusual prominence. The chapters on + “How to Distinguish Rugs” and on “Purchasing + Rugs” should prove serviceable to those who are collecting + or are buying for use; and the chapter on “Weaving” + contains many details which have not previously received from + connoisseurs the consideration they deserve.</p> + + <p>The descriptions of all but the least important classes of + rugs in the Persian, Asia Minor, Caucasian, and Central Asiatic + groups include not only a general statement of their most + striking features, but also a technical analysis that is termed + “Type Characteristics.” It should be understood, + however, that these characteristics are not invariable, but are + remarkably constant. They may interest chiefly those who aim to + acquire expert information, yet they will doubtlessly prove + valuable to every owner of a rug as a means for its + identification.</p> + + <p>It would be difficult to acknowledge all the assistance + received by the author since he began the study of rugs; for + sometimes a mere suggestion has started a line of investigation + resulting in interesting discoveries. He has freely consulted + well-known authorities, who are quoted in the body of the work; + and has received valuable suggestions and assistance from Messrs. + T. S. Hawley, of Santa Barbara, Cal., George Harootunian and + Frank Loftus, of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id= + "Page_vi">vi</a></span> Los Angeles, Cal.; George Stevenson, of + New York; G. Graf, of the Persische Teppiche Gesellschaft, of + Tabriz; and P. de Andrea & Co., of Constantinople. He + gratefully acknowledges the permission of Messrs. C. F. Williams, + of Norristown, Penn., and James F. Ballard, of St. Louis, Mo., to + study their valuable collections; and the permission of Dr. + Wilhelm R. Valentiner, Curator of Decorative Arts in the + Metropolitan Museum in New York, to examine the carpets of the + museum and to take photographs of them. He also wishes + particularly to mention the kindness of the following collectors + and firms who have allowed their rugs to be used for + illustrations: Miss Emily Davis, of Buffalo, N. Y.; the Misses + Palache, and Messrs. Nathan Bentz and T. S. Hawley, of Santa + Barbara, Cal.; Mr. R. Y. Struble, of Fredericktown, Ohio; Mr. E. + L. Pierce, of Syracuse, N.Y.; Mr. H. C. Merritt, of Pasadena, + Cal.; Mr. J. F. Ballard, of St. Louis, Mo.; Mr. C. F. Williams, + of Norristown, Penn.; Major L. B. Lawton, U.S.A., of Seneca + Falls, N.Y.; Messrs. Mihran & Co., of Los Angeles, Cal.; + Messrs. B. Altman & Co., Benguiat & Keresey, Wm. + Baumgarten & Co., Jones & Brindisi, Jos. Wild & Co., + W. & J. Sloane, and the Tiffany Studios, of New York City. He + is also indebted to Vincent Robinson & Co., Ltd., of London, + for the use of the colour plate of the Royal Garden Carpet, now + owned by them, and to the Royal Victoria and Albert Museum, South + Kensington, London, for permission to obtain a colour plate of + the Holy Carpet of the Mosque of Ardebil.</p> + + <p class="name"><span class="smcap">Walter A. Hawley.</span></p> + + <p><span class="smcap">New York</span>, June, 1913.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id= + "Page_vii">vii</a></span></p> + + <h3>CONTENTS</h3> + + <table width="100%" summary="TOC"> + <tr> + <td class="right10"><small>CHAPTER</small></td> + + <td class="left80"> </td> + + <td class="right10"><small>PAGE</small></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">I</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class= + "smcap">Introduction</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">II</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Physical Features and + History of Rug-producing Lands</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">III</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Materials</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">IV</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Dyeing</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">V</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Weaving</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">VI</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Designs and + Symbols</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">VII</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Rug Weaving before the + Eighteenth Century</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">VIII</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Classification of + Modern Rugs</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">IX</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Persian + Rugs</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">X</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Asia Minor + Rugs</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_163">163</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">XI</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Caucasian + Rugs</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_197">197</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">XII</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Central Asiatic + Rugs</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_233">233</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">XIII</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Indian + Rugs</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_253">253</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">XIV</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Chinese + Rugs</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_263">263</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">XV</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Kilims</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_276">276</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">XVI</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">How to Distinguish + Rugs</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_282">282</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">XVII</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Purchasing + Rugs</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_295">295</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="right10"> </td> + + <td class="left80"> </td> + + <td class="right10"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10"> </td> + + <td class="left80"><span class="smcap">Index</span></td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_309">309</a></td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p> <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id= + "Page_viii">viii</a></span></p> +<hr /> + <p> <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id= + "Page_ix">ix</a></span></p> + + <h3>ILLUSTRATIONS</h3> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Coloured Plates</span></p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TOC"> + <tr> + <td class="right10"><span class="smcap">Plate</span></td> + + <td class="left80"> </td> + + <td class="right10"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">I</td> + + <td class="left80">The Holy Carpet of the Mosque of + Ardebil</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href= + "#frontis"><i>Frontispiece</i></a><br /> + <span class= + "smcap"><small>Opposite Page</small></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">II</td> + + <td class="left80">Oushak Carpet</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pii">40</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">III</td> + + <td class="left80">Mosul Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#piii">66</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">IV</td> + + <td class="left80">Bergamo Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#piv">102</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">V</td> + + <td class="left80">Ghiordes Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pv">130</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">VI</td> + + <td class="left80">Royal Persian Garden Carpet</td> + + <td class="right10"><i>Between pages <a href= + "#pvi">160 and 161</a></i></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">VII</td> + + <td class="left80">Ladik Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pvii">190</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">VIII</td> + + <td class="left80">Soumak Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pviii">210</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">IX</td> + + <td class="left80">Samarkand Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pix">240</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">X</td> + + <td class="left80">Kang-hi Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#px">270</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">XI</td> + + <td class="left80">Keen-lung Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pxi">300</a></td> + </tr> + </table> + + <h4><span class="smcap">Halftone Engravings</span></h4> + + <table width="100%" summary="Halftone Engravings" border="0"> + <tr> + <td class="right5">Plate</td> + <td class="right5">1</td> + + <td class="left80">Khorassan Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p01">22</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + <td class="right5">2</td> + + <td class="left80">Meshed Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p02">26</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + <td class="right5">3</td> + + <td class="left80">Kirman Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p03">30</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + + <td class="right5">4</td> + + <td class="left80">Shiraz Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p04">34</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + + <td class="right5">5</td> + + <td class="left80">Niris Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p05">36</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + + <td class="right5">6</td> + + <td class="left80">Feraghan Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p06">42</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + + <td class="right5">7</td> + + <td class="left80">Feraghan Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p07">46</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + + <td class="right5">8</td> + + <td class="left80">Hamadan Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p08">52</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + + <td class="right5">9</td> + + <td class="left80">Sarouk Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p09">56</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">10</td> + + <td class="left80">Sarabend Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p10">58</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">11</td> + + <td class="left80">Carpet from Northwestern Persia</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p11">64</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">12</td> + + <td class="left80">Carpet from Northwestern Persia</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p12">68</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">13</td> + + <td class="left80">Compartment Carpet</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p13">70</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + + <td class="right5">14</td> + + <td class="left80">Persian Animal Carpet</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p14">72</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">15</td> + + <td class="left80">Persian Animal Carpet</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p15">76</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">16</td> + + <td class="left80">Persian Animal Carpet</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p16">78</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">17</td> + + <td class="left80">So-called Polish or Polonaise Carpet</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p17">80</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">18</td> + + <td class="left80">So-called Ispahan</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p18">84</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">19</td> + + <td class="left80">Armenian Carpet</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p19">86</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">20</td> + + <td class="left80">Asia Minor Dragon and Phœnix + Carpet</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p20">88</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">21</td> + + <td class="left80">Portrait of Georg Gyze by Hans + Holbein</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p21">92</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">22</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id= + "Page_x">x</a></span>Oushak Carpet</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p22">94</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + + <td class="right5">23</td> + + <td class="left80">Sehna Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p23"> 98</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5"> </td> + + <td class="right5"> </td> + + <td class="left80">Map of Persia</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#m1">104</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">24</td> + + <td class="left80">Bijar Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p24">106</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">25</td> + + <td class="left80">Kermanshah Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p25">110</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">26</td> + + <td class="left80">Kurdistan Rug with Mina Khani Pattern</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p26">114</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">27</td> + + <td class="left80">Gorevan Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p27">118</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">28</td> + + <td class="left80">Bergamo Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p28">122</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">29</td> + + <td class="left80">Ghiordes Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p29">126</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">30</td> + + <td class="left80">Ghiordes Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p30">132</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">31</td> + + <td class="left80">Kulah Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p31">136</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">32</td> + + <td class="left80">Melez Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p32">140</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">33</td> + + <td class="left80">Melez Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p33">144</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">34</td> + + <td class="left80">Rhodian Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p34">148</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">35</td> + + <td class="left80">Konieh Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p35">152</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">36</td> + + <td class="left80">Kir-Shehr Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p36">154</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + + <td class="right5">E</td> + + <td class="left80">Primary Border-Stripes of Persian + Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pe">156</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + + <td class="right5">F</td> + + <td class="left80">Secondary Border-Stripes of Persian + Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pf">158</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5"> </td> + + <td class="right5"> </td> + + <td class="left80">Map of Asia Minor</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#m2">164</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">37</td> + + <td class="left80">Anatolian Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p37">166</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">38</td> + + <td class="left80">Mudjar Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p38">168</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">39</td> + + <td class="left80">Daghestan Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p39">172</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">40</td> + + <td class="left80">Kabistan Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p40">176</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">41</td> + + <td class="left80">Kuba Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p41">180</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">42</td> + + <td class="left80">Chichi Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p42">184</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">43</td> + + <td class="left80">Tcherkess Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p43">188</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> +<td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + <td class="right5">G</td> + + <td class="left80">Primary Border-Stripes of Asia Minor + Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pg">192</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> +<td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + <td class="right5">H</td> + + <td class="left80">Secondary Border-Stripes of Asia Minor + Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#ph">194</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5"> </td> + + <td class="right5"> </td> + + <td class="left80">Map of Caucasia</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#m3">198</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + + <td class="right5">44</td> + + <td class="left80">Baku Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p44">200</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">45</td> + + <td class="left80">Shirvan Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p45">202</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">46</td> + + <td class="left80">Soumak Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p46">204</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">47</td> + + <td class="left80">Kazak Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p47">208</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">48</td> + + <td class="left80">Kazak Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p48">212</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">49</td> + + <td class="left80">Karabagh Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p49">214</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">50</td> + + <td class="left80">Gengha Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p50">218</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">51</td> + + <td class="left80">Royal Bokhara Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p51">222</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">52</td> + + <td class="left80">Princess Bokhara Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p52">224</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + <td class="right5">I</td> + + <td class="left80">Primary Border-Stripes of Caucasian + Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pi">226</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + <td class="right5">J</td> + + <td class="left80">Primary Border-Stripes of Caucasian + Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pj">228</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + <td class="right5">K</td> + + <td class="left80">Secondary Border-Stripes of Caucasian + Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pk">230</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5"> </td> + + <td class="right5"> </td> + + <td class="left80">Map of Turkestan</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#m4">234</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">53</td> + + <td class="left80">Turkoman Rug with Katchli Pattern</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p53">236</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">54</td> + + <td class="left80">Turkoman Rug with Pindé + Pattern</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p54">238</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">55</td> + + <td class="left80"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" + id="Page_xi">xi</a></span>Turkoman Rug of the Salor + Tribes</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p55">244</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">56</td> + + <td class="left80">Yomud Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p56">248</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + <td class="right5">L</td> + + <td class="left80">Primary and Secondary Border-Stripes of + Central Asiatic Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pl">250</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">57</td> + + <td class="left80">Beshire Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p57">254</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">58</td> + + <td class="left80">Beshire Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p58">258</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">59</td> + + <td class="left80">Afghan Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p59">260</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">60</td> + + <td class="left80">Beluchistan Prayer Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p60">264</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">61</td> + + <td class="left80">Turkoman Saddle-bags</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p61">268</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> +<td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + <td class="right5">M</td> + + <td class="left80">Medallions in Chinese Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pm">272</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> +<td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + <td class="right5">N</td> + + <td class="left80">Primary and Secondary Border-Stripes of + Chinese Rugs. 274</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pn">272</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">62</td> + + <td class="left80">Srinagar Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p62">278</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">63</td> + + <td class="left80">XVIII Century Chinese Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p63">282</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">64</td> + + <td class="left80">Keen-lung Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p64">286</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">65</td> + + <td class="left80">Keen-lung Rug</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p65">292</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right5 padr1">”</td> + +<td class="right5">66</td> + + <td class="left80">Kurdish Prayer Kilim</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#p66">296</a></td> + </tr> + </table> + + <h4><span class="smcap">Black and White Engravings</span></h4> + + <table width="100%" summary="Black and White Engravings"> + <tr> + <td class="right10"></td> + + <td class="left80"> </td> + + <td class="right10"><span class="smcap">Page</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">Plate A</td> + + <td class="left80">An Upright Loom</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pa">45</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">Plate B</td> + + <td class="left80">Technicalities of Weaving</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pb">49</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">Plate C</td> + + <td class="left80">Prayer Arches of Persian, Caucasian, and + Central Asiatic Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pc">61</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">Plate D</td> + + <td class="left80">Prayer Arches of Asia Minor Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#pd">63</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="right10">Plate O</td> + + <td class="left80">General Designs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#po">291</a></td> + </tr> + </table> + + <h4><span class="smcap">Charts</span></h4> + + <table width="100%" summary="Charts"> + <tr> + <td class="left90">Periods when Antique Carpets were + made</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#c1">96</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90">Technicalities in the weave of Persian + Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_161">161</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90">Technicalities in the weave of Persian + Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_162">162</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90">Technicalities in the weave of Asia Minor + Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_196">196</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90">Technicalities in the weave of Caucasian + Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_232">232</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90">Technicalities in the weave of Central + Asiatic Rugs</td> + + <td class="right10"><a href="#Page_252">252</a></td> + </tr> + </table> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id= + "Page_15">15</a></span></p> + + <h2>ORIENTAL RUGS</h2> + + <h3>CHAPTER I</h3> + + <h4>INTRODUCTION</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/i.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="I" + title="I" /></span>T is not altogether surprising that in a most + materialistic age many of a race distinguished more for its + utilitarian than artistic accomplishments should fail to see in + Oriental carpets high artistic expression; yet during the last + twenty years choice specimens have been sold for sums which not + only are very large, but show a tendency to increase with each + succeeding year. In 1893 a woollen rug, known as the Ardebil + carpet and regarded, on account of its beautiful designs and + exquisite colours, as one of the finest products of Oriental art, + was purchased for the South Kensington Museum. Since it had a + length of thirty-four and a half feet with a breadth of seventeen + and a half, the price of £2500, which was the sum paid, was + at the rate of twenty dollars per square foot. At an auction sale + in New York in 1910,<a name="FNanchor_1" id= + "FNanchor_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">1</a> a + woollen rug five and a half feet long by three and three quarters + wide was sold for the sum of $10,200, or at the rate of four + hundred and ninety-one dollars per square foot; and a silk rug + seven feet and two inches long by six feet and four inches wide + was sold for the sum of $35,500, or at the rate of nine hundred + and thirty dollars per square foot. As it was the general opinion + of connoisseurs that the prices paid for these two rugs were low, + and as it is well known that these rugs are not more valuable + than some others of equal size, it is not unreasonable to assume + that many of the best judges of Oriental rugs would declare that + at the present time the sum of five hundred dollars per square + foot is a fair price for some antique woollen rugs, and the sum + of one thousand dollars per square foot a fair price for some + antique silk rugs.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id= + "Page_16">16</a></span></p> + + <p>If these judges were asked on what they based their opinion of + the value of these old pieces, which are less serviceable for + wear than new rugs that can be bought of an American factory at + twenty cents per square foot, they might with reason reply that + they are works of art, woven in those days when Michelangelo, + Titian, Rubens, and Rembrandt were busy in their studios; that + they are as scarce as the paintings of these masters; and that + they might justly be compared with them in beauty and artistic + execution. Though granting that the technique of weaving makes it + impossible to represent a design as perfectly as can be done with + a brush, they would claim that the drawing of dainty vines, + scrolls, and arabesques was often represented by lines that in + abstract beauty of form are unsurpassed, and that no artist had + ever produced from his palette colours which equalled in + brilliant sheen and marvellously changing hue those of the woven + masterpieces.</p> + + <p>Whoever is inclined to disagree with these judges and with + those art critics of Europe and America who assert that in an + aesthetic sense the people of the Orient are cultured to a + standard beyond the comprehension of the Western world, should + remember that the taste for any kind of art is based on + convention and is largely a matter of cultivation. The + Occidental, who for generations has cultivated the taste for + paintings and statuary, looks to the painter and sculptor for the + highest expression of artistic genius; but the Oriental takes + greater delight in his marvellous creations of porcelain or woven + fabrics. There is, too, a marked difference in treatment. The + Occidental demands that in art “everything should be stated + with the utmost fullness of a tedious realism before he can grasp + its meaning”<a name="FNanchor_2" id= + "FNanchor_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">2</a> and + fails to recognise the more subtle beauty of various forms of + Oriental art. The Oriental, on the other hand, is far less + realistic and is better satisfied if his subject suggests + abstract qualities that depend for their fullest appreciation on + those quickening experiences that at different times have touched + the soul of the observer. Moreover, as Buddhism, which prevails + in many of the countries of Asia, teaches that a universal spirit + is manifested in each form of nature, determining its character, + and a similar idea pervades other religions of the East, the + highest aim of Asiatic art is to express that inner spirit. It is + largely this difference in artistic cultivation that accounts for + the difference in taste. Whoever then would fully appreciate + these rugs must view <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id= + "Page_17">17</a></span>them not only with an eye trained to see + the beautiful harmonies of colour and design, but with the + artistic temperament of the Oriental.</p> + + <p>By study and cultivation the European as well as the American + is growing to value more highly the products of Oriental art. + When the old sea captains carried on trade with Japan, they + imported into Europe large quantities of Imari ware, which the + Japanese purposely decorated with crude and vulgar colours to + meet the less refined taste of the Europeans, who regarded many + of them as fine specimens of ceramic art and studiously copied + them in their factories. But so great has been the change in + artistic taste since then that now they are valued principally as + objects of curiosity. Likewise, many beautiful Japanese + Makimonos, in which a few strong lines gave but a hint of the + essential thought, formerly passed before the eyes of Europeans + as the paintings of semi-barbarians. But now we begin to see, as + did Whistler, that they are often the products of great genius + and that they express thought and feeling with marvellous power. + There has been a similar growth in the appreciation of Oriental + rugs. Even within the last generation this growth has been + apparent, so that the few who wisely bought those old worn pieces + which thirty years ago hung at doors of little shops where + dark-faced foreigners invited acquaintance, are now the envy of + the many who, too late, have learned that to-day they can + scarcely be bought at any price.</p> + + <p>The more we study the several fields of art in the Orient, the + better we realise the wonderful creative genius of its people and + learn to value the products of any one field. Japan has awakened + the admiration of the highest art critics for its bronzes, some + of which exceed in size any other castings in the world, and for + its netsukés, which are the smallest of carvings. Its + blades of steel are superior to those of Damascus and Toledo; and + its lacquer, which is the most wonderful of its artistic + products, displays genius of a very high order. To China, a + country that we often regard as barbarous, we owe the invention + of silks, the printing press, and gunpowder; yet it is in + porcelain, that was manufactured even in those days when Caesar + was marching with his legions against the barbarous races of + Central and Northern Europe, that China has surpassed the world + and set a standard that probably will never again be reached. In + the land where glide the Indus and the Ganges stand temples, + erected by the descendants of the house of Tamerlane, + be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id= + "Page_18">18</a></span>fore which the beholder, even if familiar + with the wonders of St. Peter’s, is lost in admiration of + the intricate delicacy of detail, the majesty of proportions, and + the gorgeous splendour of colour with which some of the spirit of + the East is expressed in material form. When we realise that in + these different lines of artistic effort the genius of Asia has + rivalled and surpassed that of Europe and America, we become the + better prepared to believe that choice specimens of woven + fabrics, in weaving which every class of every country of Asia + has been engaged from time immemorial, are to be regarded as + works of the highest art.</p> + + <p>However pleasing the design or elaborate the detail, it is + principally in the colouring that these rugs claim our interest + and admiration. The colours which are derived from vegetable or + animal dyes grow more mellow and beautiful with passing years, + and applied to wools of finest texture acquire a lustre and + softness which in the choicest specimens are like the radiant + throat of a humming bird, or tints at the close of an autumn day. + The different shades have different moods, expressing peace, joy, + pensiveness, sorrow, the deep meaning of which the Oriental mind + with its subtle and serious imagination has grasped as has none + other. Moreover, in all truly fine pieces there is perfect + harmony of tone. It is in this richness, suggestiveness, and + harmony that the greatest artistic value lies.</p> + + <p>That all do not appreciate these qualities is not because they + do not exist; for the keen perception of colour, like the keen + perception of music, is a faculty granted to one person but + denied to another. Even to those who take delight in colour there + are different degrees of appreciation. “The fact is,” + said John Ruskin, “we none of us enough appreciate the + nobleness and sacredness of colour.” But as the ear can be + cultivated to a higher taste for music, so can the eye be + cultivated to a higher taste for colour; and to fully appreciate + the beauties of Oriental rugs it is necessary to develop this + faculty to its fullest extent.</p> + + <p>And yet it is not alone as works of art that Oriental rugs + interest us. They suggest something of the life and religious + thought of the people who made them. Some seem redolent with the + fragrance of flowers, others reflect the spirit of desert wastes + and wind-swept steppes. So, too, in the colours and designs of + some appear the symbols of that mysticism with which the minds of + the followers of Zoroaster in their effort to commune with the + unseen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id= + "Page_19">19</a></span> forces of the universe were imbued; and + though the original meaning of many of these symbols has been + forgotten, the study of others leads to a better understanding of + the life-thought of the weavers.</p> + + <p>Realising, then, that Asia has been the cradle from which has + come the highest expression of many forms of artistic + achievement, and that the Western mind is now assigning to its + woven fabrics their proper place in the galleries of art, we may + begin the study of Oriental rugs with the assurance that the + further it is pursued the greater will be the appreciation and + delight. It will take us among strange and interesting people, + and over fields that were historic grounds before the walls of + Rome were built. It will lead beyond the dome of St. Sophia to + the land of the Arabian tales, where the splendour of former days + is reflected in tomb and mosque, and where, perhaps, when the + Western world grows old, there will rise again from crumbling + ruins another nation that will revive the poetic and artistic + genius of the East with all the majesty and creative power of the + past.</p> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id= + "Page_20">20</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER II</h3> + + <h4>PHYSICAL FEATURES AND HISTORY OF THE RUG-PRODUCING LANDS</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/t.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="T" + title="T" /></span>HE artistic character of Oriental rugs, like + every other artistic impulse, is subject to the influence of + physical environment. This influence is not alone that to which + an individual weaver has been subjected, but is the transmitted + effect of the accumulated experiences of many generations. It + appears in the colours which simulate tones displayed by varying + phases of nature, and also in the designs or symbols which, + derived from older types by a long process of evolution, + partially reflect feelings engendered in a people of highly + imaginative and poetic temperament by long contact with elemental + forces. Moreover, the quality of material used depends almost + exclusively on the climate and physical conditions of countries + where it is produced. Accordingly, the artistic and essential + characteristics of rugs are better understood by a knowledge of + the salient physical features of the countries where they are + woven.<a name="FNanchor_3" id="FNanchor_3"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">3</a></p> + + <p>The principal Oriental countries that continue to produce rugs + are China, India, Afghanistan, Beluchistan, Persia, Turkestan, + Caucasia, and Asia Minor. As all of them are contiguous, they may + be regarded as a geographic unit; and though there is much + diversity of detail, there is also much in common. From near the + western boundary of Asia Minor a vast plateau stretches eastward + into Central Asia, increasing in altitude towards the east.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id= + "Page_21">21</a></span></p> + + <p>Its mean elevation in Asia Minor is from two thousand to three + thousand feet, and as it extends beyond the Zagros Mountains and + crosses the northern half of Persia, it rises from four thousand + to five thousand feet. Continuing eastward through Southern + Turkestan and Afghanistan it increases in altitude until it has + risen to nearly twelve thousand feet in the lofty table-lands of + Central Asia, where it begins to descend as it extends farther + into the desert of Gobi. From the western part of this plateau a + spur extends northward between the Black and Caspian seas, to + form the high table-land of Caucasia, which has a mean elevation + of about seven thousand feet.</p> + + <p>The general topographic features of this plateau include great + stretches of comparatively level land, broad tracts from which + there is no drainage to the sea, and sandy desert wastes. On + almost every side it is bounded by mountain chains and is + intersected by transverse ridges that lift still higher peaks + where rests the perpetual snow. Throughout the deserts and large + parts of the table-lands the rainfall is slight, so that there + are but few important river courses.</p> + + <p>The cultivated portions of this vast area are relatively + small, and consist largely of strips of land in fertile valleys, + through which flow perennial streams. From time immemorial these + streams have been used for irrigation, and the inhabitants of the + districts have prospered by abundant harvests. In one or another + of these valleys have been built the principal cities, within the + walls of which were imposing temples that stimulated religious + fervour, schools of learning to quicken the intellect, and + gardens where perfumed flowers and the songs of birds delighted + the aesthetic senses. In these cities science, philosophy, + religion, and art received their highest development. In them + lived the most skilled artisans and artists of the Orient; and + the products of the loom were of the finest quality.</p> + + <p>Beyond these valleys are great stretches of uncultivated + tracts consisting of plains, hills, and mountains. Some of these + tracts are naturally fertile and could be made productive, but at + present are used only for pasturage, and over them numberless + tribes of fierce nomads drive their flocks of sheep. On the other + hand, where the land has no drainage to the sea, so that the + streams and rivers that flow into it empty into small lakes or + are finally absorbed, the soil becomes impregnated with alkali + deposited from the waters, and the grass is<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span> scanty. + There are also sandy wastes of great extent where scarcely any + animal life can exist. Moreover in many parts of the country the + rain falls only during a few months of the year, and more + abundantly in the higher altitudes, so that the nomads are + constantly searching for fresh pasturage, and moving from the + lowlands, where the grass dies after the rainy season, to the + higher altitudes, from which they return again at the approach of + winter. So numerous are the flocks that in the struggle for + pasture the weaker tribes are driven to the poorer land.</p> + + <p>The pastoral life, the necessity of moving from place to + place, the strife resulting from the difference in quality of + pasture, have affected the temperament and character of the + people. The boundless stretches of land, the clear atmosphere, + the burning desert sands, the delicate mirage, and the starry + heavens, have made men hospitable, thoughtful, devotional; + constant wanderings have made them independent; the struggle for + pasturage has made them lawless and cruel. These qualities are + reflected to some extent in their woven fabrics, which lack the + high artistic finish of those woven in cities. A large proportion + of them are prayer rugs and contain symbols of the sun and fire + worship. The designs are barbaric, and many are doubtless the + same as those used hundreds of years ago. The colours of the old + pieces, woven on upland plains or in mountain fastnesses, blend + less harmoniously than those woven by more cultured weavers; but + they frequently possess rich, pure tones, which are no longer + seen in the modern rugs. As even a partial expression of the + thoughts and feelings of a people, there are no rugs from the + Orient more worthy of study than the rare old pieces woven by + nomadic tribes.</p> + + <p>Not only physical environment but the conquests of foreign + enemies, as well as political struggles at home, have had an + important influence on all art. It will be of interest, + therefore, to briefly review the histories of Central and + Southwestern Asia, where rugs have been made for over three + thousand years, in order to understand the different racial + influences which have affected their artistic development.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p01" id="p01"></a><img src="images/plate01.jpg" + width="550" height="871" alt="Khorassan Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 1. Khorassan + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>In the rich valleys near the mouths of the Tigris and + Euphrates dwelt in the remote past a race of unknown origin + called Sumerians, and to the north of them lived another people + known as the Accadians. These races built canals, cultivated the + soil, established towns, and invented the cuneiform writing. They + lived in harmony <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id= + "Page_23">23</a></span>with one another, and continued to prosper + until about 3000 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, when the + Semitic race of the Chaldees, appearing from an unknown land, + subdued them. The Chaldees, however, allowed the conquered races + to retain part of their lands, adopted their civilisation, and + about the year 2500 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> built the + city of Babylon, the foundation of which biblical students claim + was laid by the mighty hunter Nimrod. By cultivating the + surrounding country, by developing its trade and commerce, the + Babylonians became a wealthy and powerful nation; and by + encouraging manufactures, art, and science, they became noted for + their delicate fabrics, magnificent temples, and knowledge of + mathematics and astronomy.</p> + + <p>About the year 2000 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> a number + of tribesmen, among whom was Abraham, migrated with their flocks + to the upper valleys of the Tigris and founded Nineveh. A century + later the land occupied by colonists who settled about Nineveh + was known as Assyria. It increased in numbers and in power until, + in 1300 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, it gained its first + victory over Babylon; and during the next four hundred years, + though meeting with occasional reverses, it extended its rule + over Babylonia, Asia Minor, and Assyria, and received tribute + even from Egypt. It thus became the first great conquering power + in Southwestern Asia. In their magnificent palaces of Nineveh, + surrounded by luxury, the rulers of Assyria were resting in + supposed security when a powerful and unexpected enemy appeared + from the land now known as Persia.</p> + + <p>When the valleys of the Tigris and the Euphrates were + inhabited by Sumerians and Accadians, Iran, which included modern + Persia, was similarly inhabited by races of unknown origin. + Subsequently, but at an exceedingly remote period, from the + region about the Oxus river in Western Asia two branches of the + great Aryan family migrated to Iran. One of these, which settled + in the northern part, was known as the Medes; the other, which + settled in the southern part, was known as the Persians. Both + Medes and Persians subdued the native races and in the course of + centuries constructed powerful empires. The former were the first + to extend their conquests, and forming an alliance with the + viceroy of Babylon they attacked Nineveh in the year 606 + <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> and destroyed it. Babylon now + became the mistress of all Mesopotamia, and under Nebuchadnezzar + it was enlarged to cover an area of one hundred square miles, and + surrounded by walls three hundred feet high. These walls enclosed + parks, orchards, gardens, and a city that soon be<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span>came famous + for its palaces, its temple of Bel, and its Hanging Gardens.</p> + + <p>While Babylon was rising in power changes were occurring in + Iran. Cyrus, leader of the Persians, instigated a revolt against + the Medes and conquered them. But not satisfied with making the + Persians rulers of Iran he extended his conquests westward, and + in the year 538 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, by diverting the + waters of the Euphrates, surprised Belshazzar in his banquet hall + and became master of Babylonia. The complete subjection of all + Asia Minor followed, and for the next two centuries the warlike + Persians were the dominant power in Western Asia. But in the year + 331 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, when Alexander the Great + defeated their armies under Darius, the Persian Empire melted + away.</p> + + <p>Whether in Egypt or China or by the Tigris the art of weaving + first took definite form, it was in this land of Babylon and + Nineveh, of the Medes and the Persians, of Abraham, Belshazzar, + and Cyrus, where a few remaining monuments attest the delicate + textiles of those early days, that in more recent ages have been + woven the most perfect carpets of which there is any + knowledge.</p> + + <p>During the succeeding five hundred years Persia, Asia Minor, + Caucasia, and Syria became the prey of the Parthians, Greeks, and + Romans, to whom petty tribes, recognising no sovereign power and + secure in their mountain fastnesses, bade occasional defiance. + About the year 226 <span class="smcap">a. d.</span> an able + leader of one of the Persian tribes founded the dynasty of the + Sassanides, which during the reign of Chosroes (531-579 + <span class="smcap">a. d.</span>) and his grandson Chosroes II + (590-628 <span class="smcap">a. d.</span>) ruled over the country + from the Oxus on the north to Arabia and Egypt on the south, and + from India on the east to Assyria on the west. This was a period + of prosperity and luxury, the glory of which continued until the + middle of the VII Century, when it was overthrown by a new power + rising from a most unexpected quarter.</p> + + <p>In the inhospitable land of Arabia, noted for its coffee, + dates, and myrrh, for its dreary, sandy, waterless wastes, a land + hitherto almost unknown in history, Mohammed promulgated the + religion which, suited to the temperament and desires of the + Bedouins, united them into a fanatic, militant body of + conquerors. After his death his successors, known as the Caliphs, + extended his conquests. Their successful armies quickly overran + Persia and overthrew the Sassanian rule; then marching northward + into Turkestan and as far east as the Indus they overcame all + resistance.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id= + "Page_25">25</a></span> From the Greeks, by whom they were known + as the Saracens, they snatched Palestine and Syria, and invading + Egypt, conquered it after the long stubborn siege of Alexandria. + A little later the Arabs became masters of Northern Africa, and + settling there intermarried with the native races. Near the + Straits of Gibraltar their African descendants, known as the + Moors, crossed to Spain, where in the year 711 they vanquished a + powerful army that opposed them. During the following year they + subdued all of that country and began an invasion of Northern + Europe. But on the rich pasture lands near Tours, where the + infantry of Charles Martel met the Mussulman cavalry in one of + the most decisive battles of history, they were defeated with + terrible slaughter and Christian Europe was saved.</p> + + <p>These conquests of the Mohammedans had not only a political + and religious significance, but also an important influence on + art at a time when Europe was sunk in ignorance and barbarism. + Fond of magnificence and luxury, the Caliphs founded great + capitals in Assyria, Egypt, and Spain, and built palaces that + have histories which sound like fairy tales. Bagdad on the banks + of the Tigris, with its sixteen hundred canals, one hundred and + five bridges, and nearly a million people, with its countless + baths, its many thousand mosques, and its royal palace, where was + collected the best of Asiatic taste, elegance, and splendour, + possessed more grandeur than any other city in the world. Gibbon + states that within the palace, furnished with Oriental luxury, + hung thirty-eight thousand pieces of tapestry, one third of which + were of silk embroidered with gold, and that on the floors lay + twenty-two thousand carpets. In Cairo and in Cordova, likewise, + the Caliphs surrounded themselves with similar splendour, of + which, unfortunately, but few traces now exist; but the Castle of + the Alhambra still remains as a powerful reminder of their taste + and artistic genius. It is largely to the influence of this race + that were due many of the beautiful Spanish rugs such as Queen + Eleanor in the XIII Century took to England from Cordova and + Granada, as well as those of other periods. Moreover, in some of + the choicest pieces of Asia Minor and Persia, woven during the + XVI and XVII Centuries, are traces of this early Saracenic + art.</p> + + <p>For about five centuries the militant power of these + Mohammedans was dominant in Southwestern Asia when another + conquering race appeared. The great wall of China, which was + built over two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id= + "Page_26">26</a></span> hundred years before Christ by the famous + Che-Hwang-te, to protect it against the invasions of the Tartars, + turned westward many wandering hordes from the more fertile + pastures and valleys of Southeastern Asia. One of these hordes + was of Turks, who, leaving their homes near the sources of the + Irtish and Yenisei rivers in the Altai Mountains, settled in + Turkestan. Many centuries afterwards, to escape from other hordes + pressing westward and to reach fresh pastures, different branches + of them migrated southward and westward. About the year 1000 + <span class="smcap">a. d.</span> one of these branches known as + the Seljukian Turks gained a foothold in Persia, and under Malek + Shah, in 1072, made Ispahan its capital. About the same time it + extended its power over Asia Minor and overran Georgia, where it + destroyed the capital Tiflis after slaughtering the inhabitants. + To this Turkoman race should probably be accredited the earliest + Mongolian influence on Persian textile art.</p> + + <p>Somewhat later a people numbering forty thousand tents were + ranging that part of Mongolia which lies north of the desert of + Gobi in search of pasture and water. One of their number gathered + about him a few followers, and by his own genius gained the + ascendency over his tribes. He then allied himself with another + powerful tribe, and reducing to obedience all the Mongolians who + dwelt north of the desert of Gobi, in 1206, in the presence of + his chiefs, he assumed the title of Genghis Khan. After becoming + the ruler of millions of nomads of the great central plateau of + Asia and conquering part of China, which was then enjoying a + period of great wealth and prosperity, he invaded Western Asia. + Bokhara offered no resistance and might have been spared, but + learning that some of the Sultan’s garrison were concealed + he ordered the city to be burned. Samarkand, which surrendered + after three days’ siege, was pillaged and the inhabitants + were slaughtered. Herat appeased his anger by opening its gates. + Even his death did not stop the ravages of the Mongol horde that + captured and sacked Bagdad, and, crossing the Tigris and + Euphrates, pillaged all Asia Minor. In 1258, Hulaku Khan, + grandson of Genghis, conquered Persia and established his capital + in the province of Azerbijan, where his descendants ruled for + over a century.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p02" id="p02"></a><img src="images/plate02.jpg" + width="550" height="641" alt="Meshed Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 2. Meshed + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>With these invasions another wave of Mongolian influence was + felt in Western Asia. Whatever may have been the effect on local + art by the settlement of the Seljukian Turks in Persia and Asia + Minor during the early part of the XI Century, it was + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id= + "Page_27">27</a></span>inappreciable as compared with that of + Genghis Khan and his followers. For the influence of Bagdad over + Southwestern Asia was like that of Rome over the empire of the + Cæsars, and when in the middle of the XIII Century it was + plundered for forty days, and other important cities of Asia + Minor and Persia similarly treated, there was no longer the same + incentive to work, so that art for a time languished. But in some + cities the artistic spirit of the people prevailed over the loss + of independence, and the more skilled workmen were encouraged by + their new masters, who, recognising the beauty of the Persian + carpets, sent many Persian artists to China and brought many + Chinese artists to Persia, that the different races might derive + advantages from the instruction of one another. It is therefore + not surprising that from this time the influence of Chinese art + has been recognised in the woven fabrics and metal work made in + the southwestern part of Asia. In fact, the Chinese motive known + as the “key pattern,” as well as other less familiar + designs of distinctly Mongolian origin, appeared for the first + time in some of the carpets and metal work of this period.</p> + + <p>Like Turkestan, Asia Minor has been one of the great + battle-grounds of the world. During parts of the XI, XII, and + XIII Centuries not only Seljukian Turks, but Mongols and Ottoman + Turks under Murad and Bajazet, rose in influence until all Asia + Minor, as well as Thrace and Macedonia, was subject to them. But + still another power from the far East was to overrun Asia and + divert Bajazet from the walls of Constantinople.</p> + + <p>Under Tamerlane, the descendant of Genghis Khan, the Mongol + hordes were again united and again attempted the conquest of the + world. From the walls of China to the Mediterranean Sea, and from + the Steppes of Turkestan to the Arabian deserts, his victorious + armies overcame all opposition. Never was conqueror more + rapacious, more bloodthirsty. At Ispahan, seventy thousand + inhabitants were slain. Georgia was laid waste and the people + were massacred. In 1401, Bagdad was besieged and, when taken, a + pyramid of ninety thousand human victims was raised as a monument + to the Tartar conqueror. In the following year, when the armies + of Bajazet and Tamerlane met on the plains near Angora, the Turks + were defeated and Bajazet was captured. But now the tide of + Mongol invasion receded; and laden with spoils Tamerlane returned + to his capital at Samarkand, where he enjoyed the remaining years + of his life by surrounding himself with a brilliant court + and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id= + "Page_28">28</a></span> by building palaces and temples, which he + adorned with royal splendour. With all his atrocious barbarities + he had a higher appreciation of art than his Mongolian + predecessors. At his capital were assembled skilled artisans from + Eastern and Western Asia; and there at the beginning of the XIV + Century European travellers saw innumerable art treasures, + including carpets of wonderful workmanship and beauty.</p> + + <p>The Mongol power also gained an important foothold in India. + This country, like Iran, had been subjugated by a branch of the + Aryan race, which conquered the native Dravidians, and remained + dominant until the VII and VIII Centuries. Then the Mohammedans + invaded it, and were still in ascendency when Tamerlane crossed + the mountains and attacked Delhi. After the lapse of more than a + hundred years his descendants, Baber, Akbar, and Shah Jahan, rose + to power. The magnificence of their courts and the splendour of + the temples which they built stimulated Indian art; and under the + instruction of Persian artisans, who were induced to settle in + that country, the natives attained their highest skill in + weaving.</p> + + <p>With the death of Tamerlane, in 1405, the Ottoman power in + Persia and Asia Minor rose again, and Turkish victories followed + in quick succession until in 1453 Constantinople fell and the + church of St. Sophia became a mosque.</p> + + <p>After the lapse of half a century Shah Ismael of the family of + the Safavids defeated the Turkomans in 1502, and founded a new + dynasty in Persia. With his rise began one of the most splendid + periods in its history. Within a few years victories extended his + empire from the Euphrates river to Afghanistan and from the Oxus + to the Persian gulf. This was the land of ancient Iran, over + which from his court at Ardebil he ruled until his death. In the + early part of the reign of Shah Tamasp, which lasted from 1524 to + 1576, the new dynasty was threatened by the Turkish ruler, + Soliman the Magnificent, after he had taken Rhodes from the + Knights of St. John and invaded Southern Europe. In 1534 he + captured Bagdad and Tabriz, as well as conquered Shirvan and + Georgia.<a name="FNanchor_4" id="FNanchor_4"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">4</a> But the lost territory was + soon regained and the new Persian capital was established at + Tabriz where, as will be seen later, were woven many of the + greatest masterpieces of Persian textile fabrics. Much as these + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id= + "Page_29">29</a></span>monarchs had accomplished, it was Shah + Abbas the Great who, after ten years of internal strife, + succeeded by expelling the Turks from Persia, restoring + tranquillity, and establishing commerce, in elevating his country + from one of devastation and confusion to one of greatness such as + it had not known for many ages. He transferred his court to + Ispahan, where, while adding to the magnificence of the city, he + encouraged art even to the extent of sending to Italy, for study, + a number of the most skilled artists of Persia. These in time + returned and exerted an influence that appeared in the more + elaborate designs of carpets of a subsequent period. It is also + probable that he rendered valuable assistance to Akbar of India + in founding carpet-weaving in that country. He ruled from 1586 to + 1628. This period, during which America was a wilderness and + England under Queen Elizabeth was still struggling with the + feudal system, was the golden age of Persian history and Persian + art; but with his death the Safavid dynasty declined and art + decadence began.</p> + + <p>In 1722, the Afghans conquered Persia and for a number of + years ruled it with horrible cruelty; but they were finally + defeated by Nadir Shah, who captured Herat in 1731, extended his + dominion into Georgia, and recovered some of the lost territory + from the Turkish Empire in the West. After his death the + sovereignty of Persia again waned, until in time it was confined + to its present limits.</p> + + <p>It thus appears that from the earliest times recorded in + history the southwestern part of Asia has been subject to + invasion, and to constant struggles between the different races + of the East for supremacy. Even from the desert of Gobi, the + flanks of the Altai Mountains, and the deserts of Arabia have + poured forth armies to devastate the land. One victorious power + after another has extended its sway from the banks of the Indus + to the shores of the Mediterranean. The result is that the + present Oriental textile art is of a composite character, which + can be understood only by taking into consideration the value of + these racial influences that have contributed to it some of its + most interesting and subtle charms.</p> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id= + "Page_30">30</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER III</h3> + + <h4>THE MATERIALS</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/a.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="A" + title="A" /></span>S was the case with the earliest shepherd + weavers, many nomads living in unfrequented parts of Asia spin + the wool taken from their own flocks, then colour it with dyes + brewed from roots and herbs that they have personally gathered, + and finally weave it according to well-known patterns into + fabrics. But in large, enlightened communities the manufacture of + an Oriental rug involves a division of labour. From the shepherds + the professional dyers obtain the wool, which, after colouring, + they sell to weavers; and these in turn often receive their + patterns from others. A knowledge of these separate steps + involving the industries of producing the different materials and + the crafts of dyeing, weaving, and designing is essential to a + full understanding of any Oriental woven fabric.</p> + + <p>The materials that were formerly used in weaving were + generally of animal origin, such as the wool of sheep, goats, and + camels. To a more limited extent silk and cotton also were used, + and occasionally hair of the yak, cow, and even human hair. In + later years, when there arose a western demand for eastern + fabrics so that the aim of the weaver was to produce an article + as cheaply as possible, flax, hemp, jute, and larger quantities + of cotton were sometimes substituted. Since all of these + materials are indigenous to the country where they are used, and + are affected by its climate, altitude, humidity, and fertility, + they acquire qualities that frequently give to rugs a distinctly + local character.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> + <a name="p03" id="p03"></a><img src="images/plate03.jpg" + width="300" height="600" alt="Plate 3. Kirman Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 3. Kirman + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>The wool of sheep constitutes the warp and weft of at least + half the Oriental rugs and the pile of over ninety per cent. To + be sure, in Japan the pile is largely jute and cotton; in a few + of the districts of Asia Minor and Persia it is mercerised cotton + or silk; and in districts where the camel is still a beast of + burden its wool and fine hair are often substituted for other + kinds; but throughout all the rug-weaving <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span>countries + of the East the wool of the sheep has been and still is preferred + to all other materials for the pile of rugs. This is due not + alone to its warmth, to the facility with which it can be spun + and twisted into knots, but also to the fact that from the + remotest times the inhabitants of these districts, like Abraham + of old, have been shepherds, who followed their calling because + over the steppes of Tartary and the great plateaus that extend + through Asia Minor, Persia, Afghanistan, and Turkestan spread + vast pasture lands that seem better suited than any other parts + of the world for the nourishment of sheep with fine fleeces. In + fact, a part of these districts seems to be the natural habitat + of the sheep; for among the crags of some of the lofty mountain + chains of Central Asia, and farther west where Eastern and + Western Turkestan meet in the lofty plateau of Pamir, called the + “Roof of the World,” still wander great bands of + magnificent native sheep with enormous horns and brownish grey + wool, from which it is believed sprang the vast flocks that now + browse on every hill and mountain slope of Western Asia.</p> + + <p>Centuries of care have effected an important evolution in this + native stock, for in no other part of the world are there sheep + with longer and more silky fleeces. Nevertheless there are + different grades, as the quality depends in a measure on the + climate and pasturage as well as on the care of the sheep. Thus + in the hot, sandy lands the wool shows some deterioration; but in + the cold, dry climates of the many high lands of Western Asia and + in the pastures of particular localities the wool is long, fine, + and lustrous. For instance, in parts of Khorassan, on the flanks + of high mountains near Kirman and Shiraz, on the shores of Lake + Niris in Farsistan, among the rolling uplands of Asia Minor, are + produced uncommonly fine and beautiful fleeces. When, moreover, + the sheep of these localities receive the care that is given by + some of the nomadic tribes, as the Uzbeck Tartars, who not only + shelter them but cover them with blankets, the wool acquires a + soft and silky quality that is unsurpassed. The wool produced in + many parts of India, on the other hand, is poor; for not only are + the serrations, on which largely depends its value for textile + purposes, less numerous than in better varieties, but it is harsh + and contains many long hairs that do not well unite with it and + that take up very little dye.</p> + + <p>The wool of the goat is much less extensively used, yet + appears in some rugs, not only as warp and weft, but also as + pile. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id= + "Page_32">32</a></span> goats of Kashmir, which live in the cold + climate of a table-land three miles above the ocean level, + produce the finest and most beautiful wool; but as it grows near + the skin, and beneath wiry hairs from which it can be removed + only with tedious care, it is too precious to be used excepting + for the most beautiful shawls and choicest carpets. Of next + importance and finest texture is the wool of the Angora goat, + known to commerce as mohair. Formerly there was not much demand + for it, but now, on account of the consideration that it has + received in the carpet factories of recent Sultans, it is found + in many of the rugs of Asia Minor. As it grows to an average + length of five to six inches it is easily spun; and its soft, + lustrous sheen gives to the rugs in which it is used a silky and + brilliant appearance. Some of the Bokhara goats, also, yield fine + wool that is used in rugs. Yet, as a rule, yarn made from the + fleece of the goat is not regarded with favour by weavers, since + it is apt to be coarse and to pack closely. Nor does the wool of + the goat mix well with the wool of the sheep. There is, however, + a much finer grade growing next to the skin, which may be removed + with a knife when it is exposed by combing the longer fleece in a + direction reverse to that in which it lies. The tougher grades + are preferred to any other material by weavers of the + Afghanistan, Beluchistan, and some Turkoman rugs for selvages at + the sides, as they afford excellent protection against hard + usage. Goat’s hair is also sometimes used in these rugs for + warp. Unless mixed with wool it is very rarely used for weft, as + it is not sufficiently pliable.</p> + + <p>Of more frequent use than the wool of the goat is the wool of + the camel which grows close to the skin beneath the long hair. In + the tropical countries, as in Soudan, the camel has no wool, but + in more northern latitudes it yields a crop which increases in + quantity and improves in quality as the climate grows colder. + Thus in Arabia, Asia Minor, and in most of Persia and Turkestan + the yield is small, in the table-lands of Eastern Persia and + Afghanistan it is much larger, and on the lofty plateaus of + Turkestan and Chinese Tartary as much as ten pounds of wool is + obtained yearly from each beast. The clip is taken at the usual + moulting season during the spring of the year. The wool of the + older camels is coarse and dark, what is taken from the young is + finer and lighter, and the most silky and valuable of all is what + is obtained from the unborn. The best grade has been more highly + esteemed than the wool of any other animal, and rugs in which it + constitutes the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id= + "Page_33">33</a></span> pile are more valuable than those in + which the wool of sheep is used. It is seldom woven in modern + rugs, but dyed wool or goats’ hair of similar colour is + often substituted for it.</p> + + <p>The wool or underhair of the yak is used only among the + mountain tribes of Tartary, and is never found in any of the + choicer grades of rugs. Occasionally the hair of the horse or cow + is employed to a limited extent in the pile of nomadic rugs, + where it may be distinguished by its coarse and wiry character. + In old rugs of which the pile is much worn cows’ hair will + now and then protrude like the hairs of small bristle brushes. + Only very rarely is human hair seen in a rug.</p> + + <p>Natural colours of the several kinds of wool, which have made + it possible to dispense with their dyeing, have always been taken + advantage of by weavers. The only black yarn on which the wear of + time has left no impress is from the fleece of the proverbially + despised black sheep. Shades of white, ivory, brown, grey, rufus, + and even a plum are obtained from different varieties. Likewise a + wide range of rich chestnut colours are furnished by the + camel.</p> + + <p>It is but natural that the nomad should depend on the wool of + his flocks and herds for warp, weft, and pile; but people of + fixed habitations have employed other kinds of material also. + Where the sensuous luxury of the East called for magnificent + carpets, they were often woven almost entirely of silk, which was + easily obtained, as silkworms thrive on the mulberry trees that + grow wild on the plains of Central and Southwestern Asia. Silk + rugs are still woven in a few cities of Asia Minor and Persia. + For the cheaper grades of rugs flax, hemp, and jute have been + sparingly used; and during recent years cotton has been widely + adopted, particularly in Persian, Indian, and Chinese rugs, on + account of its cheapness as compared with wool. It is, however, + almost entirely as warp and weft and rarely as pile that it is + used. Though much less durable than wool, its white colour is far + less likely to darken with age; yet there is a poorer variety + which, after being thoroughly wet, acquires a dark colour.</p> + + <p>In the preparation of these different textile materials wool + requires the greatest care. In some parts of the Orient it is not + washed, and the lustrous hues of the pile are attributed to the + fact that it is dyed in its naturally greasy state; but in other + parts the grease and dirt are carefully removed. This cleansing + is a craft that has been transmitted from parent to child, and is + practised<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id= + "Page_34">34</a></span> according to different methods in + different parts of the country. One of the chief essentials is an + abundance of clear running water free from alkali; for when the + water is hard, as is often the case in the more arid parts of the + country, it loses some of its cleansing properties, and potash or + other chemicals are required to counter-act this unfavourable + quality. After the wool has been thoroughly washed it is + carefully dried in the sun and open air.</p> + + <p>The next important step is the proper sorting, picking, and + combing. The sorting consists of the separation of black and + light wool, or of an inferior from a better grade; and the + picking consists of the removal of burrs or foreign particles. + The object of combing is to effect an orderly arrangement of the + wool so that it is ready for spinning. One method, corresponding + to carding, is to draw the wool repeatedly between rows of + upright spikes set in a wooden frame until every matted particle + has been separated and all the fibres are disentangled. The older + method, still employed in nearly every part of the Orient, + consists of “teasing” with the cord of a heavy bow, + which is suspended or held firmly by the left hand over the wool, + while with the right hand the cord is made to vibrate either by + striking it with a wooden instrument or plucking it, so that the + fibres of wool are separated and assorted by the vibrations.</p> + + <p>When the wool has thus been prepared, it is wound about the + distaff and then spun into yarn. In many parts of the Orient the + common spinning-wheel has been introduced and adopted for both + wool and cotton; in other parts are crudely made spinning-wheels + of different design and about the height of a man. The natives of + districts more remote from civilisation still cling to the + primeval spindle, which sometimes consists of no more than a + rounded stick half an inch in diameter and a foot in length with + a ball of clay at one end. Many of the nomadic tribes of Asia + Minor and Mesopotamia use in place of it a small stone of + convenient shape, to which is tied a strip of linen a few inches + in length. A few fibres of wool are attached to the end of the + linen by twisting them about it, and a few more fibres are + similarly attached to these when the stone is suspended and + twirled. As the fibres become closely twisted together more + fibres are added until on account of the length of the thread + thus formed the stone reaches the ground. The thread is then + wound about the stone and secured by a couple of loops so as to + leave a piece only a few inches in length, to which more wool is + attached in continuing the spinning. When a large ball of thread + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id= + "Page_35">35</a></span>has been spun, it is removed from the + stone and the process begun again.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p04" id="p04"></a><img src="images/plate04.jpg" + width="550" height="740" alt="Plate 4. Shiraz Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 4. Shiraz + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>One advantage of these simple devices is that they can easily + be carried anywhere. Even to-day a not unusual sight is a half + barbaric shepherd following his flock, while he spins with simple + distaff and spindle or stone, as did his ancestors thousands of + years ago. On the end of the distaff, that rests beneath his left + arm, is the ball of wool from which he selects and twists the + fibres, while he deftly turns the short spindle or twirls the + stone with thumb and forefinger of the right hand. The threads + spun by professional spinners on spinning-wheels are of small + diameter and are the most regular in size and texture, those spun + with the small spindle are of larger diameter and less regular, + and those spun by twirling a stone are made of the coarsest + diameter in order to insure sufficient stoutness, since they are + the most irregular in size and texture; yet yarn so made is the + most highly valued by all weavers.</p> + + <p>Only very rarely, indeed, is one of these single threads used + for yarn, since it would be apt to part. Two of them, therefore, + are twisted together to form a double thread. A simple device + used by many nomadic tribes for this purpose consists of two + short sticks crossing at right angles, and another piece with end + like a crochet needle perpendicular to them. The threads which + are attached to this piece pass through a hole at the + intersection of the crossed sticks and are twisted by twirling + them. It is very seldom that three single threads are twisted to + make a triple thread, and when such is the case it is the work of + a professional spinner who uses a large spinning-wheel, and never + the work of a nomad. For the weft of many rugs, and for the pile + of a few rugs such as Sarouks and Kashans, a double thread alone + is used; whilst for the pile of most rugs the double thread is + again doubled, trebled, or quadrupled, so as to form yarn of two, + three, or four ply, and even yarn of six ply is sometimes used. A + distinction also exists in the manner of twisting together double + threads to make yarn of two or more ply, since according to the + custom of different tribes they may be twisted so loosely that in + the length of an inch they do not describe more than a single + revolution or so tightly as to describe several.</p> + + <p>Until the introduction of the modern spinning-wheel wool was + spun in the Orient exactly as it was ages ago. It is this almost + incredible disposition to adhere as with religious fanaticism to + methods transmitted from father to son and to resist as + pernicious <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id= + "Page_36">36</a></span> every attempt at innovation that makes a + precise analysis of rugs possible. Accordingly, the evenness or + unevenness of single threads, the looseness or tightness with + which double threads are twisted together to form yarn of + different ply, as well as the number of the ply used, are a few + of the important indices for distinguishing between rugs of + different districts.</p> + + <p>Even after the yarn is spun it is not always ready for the + dyer, and in order that it may properly absorb the dye it is + often washed and rewashed. In some parts of the Orient it is + first soaked in warm water and carefully rinsed in cold water. It + is then placed in a copper pot or vat containing boiling water to + which has been added carbonate or sulphate of soda and potash, + and stirred for about an hour. After this thorough cleansing it + is again washed very carefully in soft water and thoroughly dried + in the sun.</p> + + <p>The wonderful sheen of many old rugs is due almost entirely to + the materials of which they are made. This material, as a rule, + is unsurpassed by similar products of any other part of the + world, and is prepared by patient races who know little of the + value of time. The simple labour required is in itself prosaic + enough, yet without a doubt the earlier spinners and weavers, + while following their flocks with minds free from all conventions + and limitations of art, discerned the elemental forces of nature + in all their freshness and power, and from them drew inspiration + that bore fruit in the exquisite colouring and delicate tracery + of the woven carpets.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p05" id="p05"></a><img src="images/plate05.jpg" + width="500" height="868" alt="Plate 5. Niris Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 5. Niris + Rug</span></p> + </div> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id= + "Page_37">37</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER IV</h3> + + <h4>DYEING</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/h.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="H" + title="H" /></span>OWEVER remarkable the achievements of Oriental + art in any field, their most pleasing effect has always been + associated with colour. Without it the beauty of the lustre tiles + of Persia, the marvellous porcelains of China, and the delicate + textiles of Western Asia would fade into insignificance. It is + indeed the wonderful harmonies of exquisite tints chosen by the + touch of genius from a palette of many thousand pigments that + awaken the appreciation of the luxurious splendour of the East. + This love for colour is inherent in every rug-producing race of + Asia and is older than history. It is but natural, then, that the + earliest carpets should be radiant with glorious tints, which in + a lesser measure are reflected in modern fabrics.</p> + + <p>If high praise is due to the artist who, by a skilful + association of different colours of co-ordinate tones, creates + the picture that delights the sense, a fair measure is also due + to the artisan who not only controls the secrets of the dyes, but + has mastered the difficult knowledge of their proper application; + for the beauty of the finished woven product depends on the + judicious dyeing of the yarn more than on anything else. From + father to son for many generations has been transmitted a + knowledge of those particular vegetable and animal products of + root, leaf, fruit, and insect, and the manner of their use, by + which the imperishable lustrous sheen and colour of the finest + woven fabrics are produced. Indeed, this art requires to-day more + technical knowledge than any other branch of rug weaving, since + modern designs are no longer more than the imitation of those in + older carpets; and so important is it regarded that a successful + dyer is a man of distinction in his tribe.</p> + + <p>The sources from which are obtained many of the dyes that give + the innumerable carpet colours are recorded. A few of them are + received from remote countries, but most of the plants from + which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id= + "Page_38">38</a></span> they are extracted grow in marshes and on + hills and plains where the nomads wander with their flocks. Many + of them are used without blending, but even some of the seven + primary colours are derived by proper blending; and from a number + of dyes of different strengths and qualities are produced an + infinite number of rich and delicate shades.</p> + + <p>The principal blues of Oriental rugs are obtained from indigo. + This is derived from colouring matter in the leaves of plants of + the genus <i>Indigofera</i>, that grow to a height of four to six + feet in the East Indies, when they are cut and placed in a vat + containing water. In about twelve hours fermentation ensues; and + after this subsides the liquid is drawn off into another vat, + where after one or two hours of agitation the indigo forms as a + precipitate. Many different species of this plant grow wild + throughout Asia, and from the earliest times have been used to + produce dye-stuff. Indigo is one of the most valuable of all + dyes, as by using it in conjunction with others an infinite + variety of shades result.</p> + + <p>Some reds are obtained from the plant madder (<i>Rubia + tinctorum</i>), that grows abundantly in Central and Southwestern + Asia, Its colouring properties were known to the ancients; and + for a long period it has been cultivated in Asia Minor, where the + succulent roots of the second and third years’ growth are + regularly dried and prepared for use. Other reds are derived from + the insect cochineal (<i>Coccus ilicis</i>) that lives on oaks of + the countries bordering the Mediterranean, and was known among + the Arabs as “kermes,” signifying Red Dye. After the + discovery of America another species (<i>Coccus cacti</i>) was + found that was more productive of dyeing qualities. The females, + which alone are valuable, are plucked from the trees and killed + by exposing them to vapours of acetic acid, or placing them in + hot water, or in an oven. From their dried bodies, of which over + fifty thousand are necessary to make a pound, the dye is + produced. As both these dyes are noted for their fastness, they + are constantly used, but when silk or wool is to be dyed + cochineal is preferable to madder.</p> + + <p>The yellow dyes are obtained from several sources. Some are + from the berries of plants of Western Asia. Others are from the + leaves of the sumach bushes, that are indigenous to nearly every + part of the world. An orange tinge is derived from the turmeric + extracted from the short root stocks of a plant of the genus + <i>Curcuma</i>. From time immemorial a beautiful yellow has been + obtained from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id= + "Page_39">39</a></span> saffron. It is the product of the stigmas + of the fragrant crocus, which are so small that over four + thousand are necessary to furnish an ounce of dried saffron; yet + the dye is so powerful that it will give a distinct tint to seven + hundred thousand times its weight of water. As saffron has + something of a stimulating effect on the human system, it has + been taken by the Persians when mixed with their rice.</p> + + <p>With none of these three basic colours was any national + feeling associated, yet the Persians excelled in the use of + blues. The Turkomans of Turkestan and Asia Minor produced better + reds than any other colour, and the best yellows, even if + generally inferior in positiveness to blues and reds, were those + of the Chinese.</p> + + <p>Though other primary and secondary colours sometimes result + from the application of a single dye, the many thousand different + tints can only be produced by the blending of two or more. + Moreover, the qualities of the same dye vary greatly, as they + depend on the soil where the plant grew, the time of year when it + was removed, and the weather and other conditions prevailing + during the dyeing.</p> + + <p>In nature green is one of the most pleasing colours, but in + carpets it is most unsatisfactory, as it has generally a faded + appearance, due probably to the fact that one of the dyes of + which it is formed by blending is less permanent than the other. + The Chinese greens obtained from the buckthorns are generally the + best.</p> + + <p>Greys and browns are sometimes derived from gall nuts, and + reddish brown from henna. For very dark browns and black, iron + pyrites has been largely used in both old and modern rugs; but + unfortunately the dye has a corrosive effect on the wool, so that + the black knots of old rugs are often worn to the warp.</p> + + <p>In parts of India flowers of the bastard teak (<i>Butea + frondosa</i>) make a favourite dye, from which are produced, by + blending with other dyes, a large number of shades ranging from + deep yellow to brownish copper tones. Another well known dye is + <i>Butti lac</i>, obtained from an insect, <i>Coccus lacca</i>, + that lives on the twigs of trees. It is a substitute for + cochineal and produces different shades of red, crimson, terra + cotta, and purple, according to the other dyes and the mordants + with which it is blended.</p> + + <p>Besides these few dyes are innumerable others that are used + either singly or in combination. Furthermore, different colour + effects are produced by the application of different mordants, + which it is necessary to use for the reason that without them + many<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id= + "Page_40">40</a></span> fibrous materials are unable to absorb a + large number of the dyes. The most valuable of all mordants is + alum; and the sulphate of iron and tin are largely employed in + the case of red colours. Of the vegetable mordants, pomegranate + rind, which contains some yellow colouring matter, is the best + known. Valonia also is sometimes used, as well as limes, lemons, + the fruit of the tamarind, and the mango.</p> + + <p>In the monograph of Mr. Harris on the “Carpet Weaving + Industry of Southern India” are a number of directions from + an old manuscript owned by a dyer who stated that he was the + descendant of twenty generations of dyers who originally came + from Tabriz, and that he had made his copy from a Persian book of + dyes which had belonged to his grandfather. A few of these are + given below, because they show not only the dyes and mordants, + but also the methods employed.</p> + + <p>“Birbuls Blue. Take cinnabar, indigo, and alum, grind + and sift lighter than the light dust of the high hills; soak for + ten hours; keep stirring it; put in the wool and soak for many + hours. Boil for three hours; wash in kurd water, water in which + kurds and whey have been well beaten up; leave for three hours, + and then wash and beat again in water.</p> + + <p>“A Fine Indigo Blue. Take indigo, soak it in water for + twelve hours, grind it to a fine paste in a mortar, add some + <i>Terminalia citrina</i>, pomegranate peel, and alum; and mix + thoroughly. Boil; put the water into the hot bath and keep + stirring till cold. Now mix in some iron-filings water, and boil + steadily for another two and a half to three hours; wash with a + beating and dry.</p> + + <p>“Ruddy Brown Grey. Take sulphate of iron, <i>Terminalia + citrina</i>, oak galls, and alum; mix well; dry; then steep for + twenty-four hours. Put in the wool; soak it for twenty-four + hours, then boil for two or three hours. Dip in a soda-bath, + wash, and dry.</p> + + <p>“Cinnamon. Take oak galls, acacia bark, cinnabar, and + alum, and steep for a night. Put in the wool, and soak for twenty + or thirty hours; boil the water for two or three hours and give a + soda-bath wash; dip in acidulated water; and wash again with + beating.</p> + + <p>“Crimson. Take lac colour and cochineal. Steep for from + four to six days in the sun, in hot weather for the lesser time, + stirring constantly till a rich deep colour comes where some has + stood for a few minutes in a thin glass bottle and settled. Then + strain through two cloths, and put in pomegranate rind and good + iron-filings water. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id= + "Page_41">41</a></span>Add mineral acid; steep wool for + thirty-six hours, then boil for three hours, wash well, and + dry.</p> + + <h4><i>COLOUR PLATE II—OUSHAK CARPET</i></h4> + + <p><i>The colours and pattern of this antique Oushak are similar + to those of the best examples that remain of the carpets woven in + Asia Minor during the XV and XVI Centuries. The deep blue of the + central field, the rich red of the medallions, and the golden + yellow of the leaves are entirely unlike the more subdued hues + found in Persian rugs. Strongly contrasting with them are the + more delicate tones of the tendrils and leaves, which display in + their drawing a keen sense of refinement. In the formal pattern + of the field are stateliness and elegance; in the narrow borders + are simplicity and grace. Such colours and drawing show that the + early Asia Minor weavers had an intense appreciation of the + ennobling qualities of beauty and harmony.</i></p> + + <p class="name"><i>Loaned by Mr. James F. Ballard</i></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pii" id="pii"></a><img src="images/plate_ii.jpg" + width="550" height="774" alt="" title="" /> + </div> + + <p>“Pale Greyish Green. Take copper rust, asburg,<a name= + "FNanchor_5" id="FNanchor_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5" class= + "fnanchor">5</a> and alum. Mix well with any hot water, not + boiling; soak wool for eighteen hours, then boil for three hours. + Give a bath with water acidulated with some limes, and dry in + shade.</p> + + <p>“Old Gold and Rich Yellow. Take turmeric and asburg, + cinnabar and alum. Soak all night. Steep wool for twenty-four + hours, boil for four and a half hours, wash with a beating, and + dry in shade.</p> + + <p>“Dark Grey. Take of the fruit of <i>Cupressus + sempervirens</i>, seeds and seed pods of babul (<i>Acacia + arabica</i>), iron-filings water, and alum. Steep over night. Now + add the water and let it soak for twenty-four hours, then boil + for two or three hours, until the colour is right, then wash and + dry in the sun.</p> + + <p>“Rose Colour. Take ratanjot (<i>Onosma echioides</i>), a + thought of cochineal, manjit (<i>Rubia cordifolia</i>) or lac + colour a very little, and cinnabar. Add water, soak them for + twelve hours, put in wool, and steep for thirty-six hours; cook + it for three hours, then bathe the wool in alum and wash nicely; + afterward dry in the shade.</p> + + <p>“Persian Scarlet. Take lac colour, and if you choose a + little cochineal for richness, and soak from four to six days; + strain it in two cloths and add alum and a little turmeric; let + it stand for three hours. Put wool in and steep for twenty-four + hours, then boil for two hours. Take out the wool and add mineral + acid; re-enter wool and boil an hour more. Wash fifteen minutes + when cold, and dry in the shade.</p> + + <p>“Saffron Yellow. Take turmeric, cinnabar, and soda, add + water and keep for a full day. Then add some alum, make the dip, + and soak the wool for thirty hours. Cook it for several hours, + and dry in the shade after beating and good washing.</p> + + <p>“Rich Yellow. Take asburg and turmeric, soak for a night + in water, steep the wool for twenty-four hours, add alum, shake + out, and dry in shade.”</p> + + <p>Identical shades of a number of colours are not produced in + all parts of the Orient, not only for the reason that soil, + moisture, and climate affect the colour values of dye-stuff, but + because each family of dyers preserve inviolable the craft + secrets transmitted from their forefathers. Thus it happens that + different parts of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" + id="Page_42">42</a></span>rug-producing countries adhere to + particular tones that help to identify the locality where the + fabrics were woven.</p> + + <p>Unfortunately the Western aniline dyes, which were introduced + about the year 1860 and quickly adopted because they are cheaper + and less complicated in their application, have to such an extent + transplanted some of these fine old vegetable dyes that a number + of the richest and most delicate colours found in the rugs of a + former century are no longer produced. Thus the superb blue of + the fine old Ispahans, as well as of lustre tiles and illuminated + manuscripts, belongs to a lost art. The disadvantages of the + aniline dyes are several: they have a tendency to make the fibres + of the textile fabric brittle, and when it is wet the colours + will frequently run. Some dyes also fade more readily than + others, so that if a colour be the product of two or more dyes, + the resultant tint may be totally unlike the original. On the + other hand, not all vegetable dyes are fast; but as they fade + they mellow into more pleasing shades. Efforts have been made to + encourage the use of old vegetable dyes; but unless the laws + which have been enacted in parts of Asia to restrict the + importation of aniline dyes be more stringently enforced than in + the past, the cultivation in the garden patch of the + dye-producing herbs and plants will soon cease to be the + time-honoured occupation it was in days gone by.</p> + + <p>Almost as important as the art of preparing the dyes is that + of properly applying them to the yarns. It is an art that demands + infinite pains in its technique, as well as a lifetime to + acquire. It is in itself a separate profession practised by + artisans who guard with jealousy the sacred secrets that + transmitted from generation to generation occupy their thoughts + to the exclusion of almost everything else. The homes of these + professional dyers in the larger villages and cities are located + on a stream of water which possesses mineral properties that long + experience has proven especially suitable as solvents for the + different kinds of colouring matter. Ranged about the walls of + their low dwellings are jars or vats containing liquid dye of + various colours. Suspended above them, from hooks driven into + beams, are the yarns from which, after immersion in the proper + vats, the liquids are allowed to drain. After this the yarns are + exposed for the proper length of time to the dry air and burning + sun. It is, therefore, the suitable mordants, the preparation of + the proper dyes for the vats, the immersion of the yarn in + correct sequence and for the correct length of time, as well + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id= + "Page_43">43</a></span>as the exposure to the glare and heat of + the sun for a definite period to be gauged to the exact moment, + on which the colour results depend. This complicated process by + which, for instance, the infinitely different shades of a red, a + blue, or a brown may be conveyed to yarn by using the same dyes + but by slightly modifying the steps requires the greatest + precision, for which no rule but an experience amounting almost + to instinct is the guide.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p06" id="p06"></a><img src="images/plate06.jpg" + width="500" height="826" alt="Plate 6. Feraghan Rug" title= + "" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 6. Feraghan + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>There was a time when the Oriental had not learned the meaning + of <i>tempus fugit</i> or seen the glitter of Western gold, when + his dyeing and weaving were proud callings, in which entered his + deepest feelings. Then the old vegetable dyes that mellow, grow + softer and more lustrous, were almost exclusively used; but now + throughout all weaving countries the dyer has deteriorated so + that he can no longer produce some of the rich colours in use + half a century ago. Yet remote from the principal lines of + travel, on the edges of the desert, in lonely valleys, among + rugged mountains, half-tamed tribes are still dyeing their + hand-spun yarn as did their fathers’ fathers.</p> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id= + "Page_44">44</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER V.</h3> + + <h4>WEAVING</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/n.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="N" + title="N" /></span>EAR the tents of some nomadic tribes may + occasionally be seen crude looms on which are woven some of the + most interesting rugs that now reach the Western markets. In all + probability they are not dissimilar to what were used thousands + of years ago, for it would be impossible to construct a simpler + loom. Where two trees suitably branching are found growing a few + feet apart, all of the upper branches are removed excepting two, + which are so trimmed as to leave a crotch at the same height in + each tree. In each crotch is rested the end of a pole or beam, + and parallel to it is placed another extending at a short + distance above the ground from trunk to trunk. Or, as is more + frequently the case, roughly hewn posts are firmly implanted in + the ground and horizontal beams are stretched between them. In + the upper one is a groove with a rod to which one end of the + warp, consisting of strong threads of yarn numbering from ten to + thirty to the inch, is attached, while the other end is tightly + stretched and firmly secured to the lower horizontal beam. + Sometimes the beams to which the warp is attached are placed + perpendicularly, so that the weaver may stand and move sideways + as the work progresses. But among a very large number of those + tribes that are constantly wandering in search of new pastures + for their flocks and herds, it is customary to let the loom lie + flat on the ground, while the weaver sits on the finished part of + the rug.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id= + "Page_45">45</a></span></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pa" id="pa"></a> + <img src="images/platea.jpg" width="550" height="1076" alt="Plate A.--An Upright Loom." title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate A.—An Upright + Loom.</span></p> + </div> + + <p>Under more favourable circumstances, when the tribes live in + villages or cities, the looms are so made that the weavers are + not compelled to bend in order to tie the first row of knots or + stand erect to finish the last rows of a long rug. Of the several + devices by which the weaver may remain seated while at work, the + crudest consists of a plank used as a seat, which rests on the + rungs of two ladders placed parallel to each other at the sides + of the rug. As <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id= + "Page_46">46</a></span>the work progresses, the plank is raised + and rested upon the higher rungs. More frequently, however, both + upper and lower beams of the frame have the shape of cylinders of + small diameter, which revolve between the upright posts. The + lower ends of the threads of warp are attached to the lower beam, + and the other ends may either be wound several times around the + upper one or else pass over it and be kept taut by weights + attached to them. Such a loom is generally used for weaving very + large rugs, which are rolled up on the lower beam as the work + progresses.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pa">A</a> (Page 45) is represented a loom + commonly used in many parts of the Orient. When preparing it for + weaving two stakes are driven in the ground at a suitable + distance apart, and about them the warp is wound in the way a + figure eight is formed. The warp is then carefully transferred to + two rods that are attached to the upper and lower beams. If it + has been carefully wound, none of the threads should be slack; + but if desired the tension may be further increased by different + devices. Two other rods, known as “Healds,” are then + attached to the front and back threads of warp; or in the case of + a single rod, it is attached to the back threads, as shown in the + Plate. A lease rod is next inserted between the threads of warp + that cross below the upper beam, and another is placed below it + where, if necessary, it is supported in position by loops. When + the weaving begins, a short web is generally woven at the lower + end to protect the knots from wear. After the first row has been + tied, the shuttle carrying the thread of weft is passed between + the front and back threads of warp; the heald rod attached to + these back threads is then pulled forward, so that they are now + in front of the others, and the shuttle is passed back. If the + rug is narrow, only one shuttle is used; but if the rug is wide, + or if the weft consists of two threads of unequal thickness, a + shuttle is passed across from each side. Every thread of warp is + in this way completely encircled by the thread of weft as it + passes and repasses. When weaving large rugs, there is an + advantage in having two heald rods, as by their use the distance + between the front and back threads of warp may be increased. The + object of the lease rod is to prevent any slack caused by drawing + forward the threads of warp, and is accomplished in a very simple + manner, as will be seen by studying the drawing; since when the + tension of the back threads is increased by drawing them forward, + the tension of the front threads is also increased by displacing + the lease rods which thereby stretches them.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p07" id="p07"></a><img src="images/plate07.jpg" + width="550" height="824" alt="Plate 7. Feraghan Rug" title= + "" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 7. Feraghan + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id= + "Page_47">47</a></span></p> + + <p>The products of the loom are divided according to their weave + into three separate classes. The simplest of these are the + kilims, which are without pile and consist only of warp and weft + to which a few embroidered stitches representing some symbol are + occasionally added.</p> + + <p>A more elaborately made class are the Soumaks. They consist of + warp covered by flat stitches of yarn and of a thread of weft + which extends across and back between each row of stitches in the + old rugs and between each second and third row of stitches in the + new rugs. In the narrow, perpendicular lines that define both + borders and designs the stitch is made by the yarn encircling two + adjacent threads of warp; but in other parts of the rug it is + made by the yarn passing across two adjacent threads of warp at + the front, and after encircling them at the back, recrossing them + again at the front. It is then continued across the next pair of + adjacent threads of warp. The result is that at the back of these + rugs each of the two threads of warp encircled by the yarn + appears as a separate cord, while at the front the yarn passes + diagonally across four threads of warp. As this diagonal movement + is reversed in each succeeding row, the surface has an uneven + appearance sometimes termed “herring bone” weave.</p> + + <p>By far the largest class of rugs are those with a pile. When + making them, the weaver begins at the bottom and ties to each + pair of adjacent threads of warp a knot of yarn so as to form a + horizontal row. A thread of weft is then passed, as often as + desired, between the threads of warp and pressed more or less + firmly with a metal or wooden comb upon the knots, when they are + trimmed with a knife to the desired length. Another horizontal + row of knots is tied to the threads of warp; again the yarn of + weft is inserted; and so the process continues until the pile is + completed. In tying the knots, work almost invariably proceeds + from left to right and from the bottom to the top. It is but + rarely that the warp is stretched horizontally and that the knots + are tied in rows parallel to the sides. It is still more + infrequently that a rug is found in which the knots are tied by + working from the centre to the right and left, and to the top and + bottom. These interesting exceptions may easily be discovered by + rubbing the hand over the pile, when it will be noticed that the + knots lie on one another so as to face the same direction, which + is the opposite to that in which the work of tying advanced, or + as is generally the case, from top to bottom.</p> + + <p>The compactness, durability, and value of a rug depend + somewhat <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id= + "Page_48">48</a></span> on the number of knots in any particular + area. Yet if the yarn is coarse, the rug may be compact even + though the number of knots be small; and if the yarn is fine, the + rug may be loosely woven, either because the rows of knots have + not been firmly pressed down, or because there are several + “filling threads” of weft, and still the number of + knots be large. A square inch is a convenient size for + measurement; but since all parts of a rug are not woven with + equal compactness, the measurement should be made in several + places if exactness be required. In loosely woven pieces, such as + the Oushaks and some of the Genghas, there may be less than + twenty knots to the square inch; but among the more closely + woven, as the Kirmans and Bokharas, are frequently several + hundred.</p> + + <p>These knots are of two classes, the Ghiordes and the Sehna. + The Ghiordes are found in all rugs of Asia Minor and Caucasia, in + some of the rugs of India, and in most of the rugs of Persia. + They are named after the town of Ghiordes in Asia Minor, where + some of the finest Asiatic pieces were made, and which tradition + states was once the ancient Gordion, noted even in the days of + Alexander. In tying the knot, the two ends of yarn appear + together at the surface included between two<a name="FNanchor_6" + id="FNanchor_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">6</a> + adjacent threads of warp around which they have been passed, so + that the tighter the yarn is drawn the more compact the knot + becomes. The three different ways of tying this knot are shown in + Plate <a href="#pb">B</a>, Figs. 1, 2, and 3 (Page 49), of which + the second is known as a “right hand” and the third + as a “left hand” knot. The Sehna knots, which are + used in the Turkoman, Chinese, many of the Persian, and in some + of the Indian rugs, take their name from the city of Sehna in + Persia. In tying them, a piece of yarn encircles a thread of warp + and is twisted so that its ends appear at the surface, one at + each side of the adjacent thread of warp, as is shown in Plate + <a href="#pb">B</a>, Figs. 4, 5, and 6. According as this thread + of warp is to the right or the left of the one they encircle, the + knots are known as “right-hand” or + “left-hand” knots,<a name="FNanchor_7" id= + "FNanchor_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">7</a> but + in the appearance of the carpet there is no distinction. If the + pile of a rug is carefully parted, the two ends of yarn forming a + Sehna knot can be separated; but with the Ghiordes knot this is + impossible, as will be understood by studying Plate <a href= + "#pb">B</a>, in which Figs. 1, 2, 3, 7, 8, and 9 are Ghiordes + knots, and Figs. 4, 5, 6, and 10 are Sehna knots. As a rule, the + Sehna knots, which permit of closer weaving and clearer + definition of pattern, appear in rugs of shorter nap.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id= + "Page_49">49</a></span></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pb" id="pb"></a><img src="images/plateb.jpg" + width="550" height="792" alt="Ghiordes knots." title="" /> + + <p class="indent"><span class="smcap">Plate + B</span>.—Nos. 1, 2, 3, 7, 8, 9, Ghiordes knots. Nos. 4, + 5, 6, 10, Sehna knots. No. 11, Weft-overcasting. No. 12, + Double-overcasting. No. 13, Weft-selvage. No. 14, + Double-selvage. Nos. 15, 16, 17, illustrate one, two, and three + threads of weft passing between two rows of knots.</p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id= + "Page_50">50</a></span>The nice distinctions in the technique of + weaving are rarely understood even by those who are familiar with + Oriental rugs. The general pattern, which next to colour is the + characteristic that most quickly arrests the attention, is often + the sole guide by which novices guess the class. The more + experienced will observe if the knot be Ghiordes or Sehna, and + examine the finish at the sides and ends; but few give the + peculiarities of the weave the consideration they deserve. This, + perhaps, is because only those who have made a special study + would believe the constancy with which members of a tribe or + locality have followed the same method of tying the knot and + inserting the weft. The different methods of treatment by + separate tribes are sometimes only slight, but they afford a most + important clue for determining the place of origin of doubtful + classes. In fact, nearly every class has a typical weave + differentiating it from all other classes. To be sure, there are + exceptions to the established type which are inevitable; since, + for instance, a man from the Feraghan district might marry a + woman from the adjoining Hamadan district, who, to please her + husband, might weave a rug with pattern common to his district + but follow the style of weaving that she has been familiar with + from childhood. Nevertheless, weavers of a particular district + adhere more closely to a typical style of weaving than they do to + any other characteristic of a rug. Nor is this surprising, since + weaving is learned in earliest childhood; and as it contains no + elements calculated to stimulate the imagination, it is + mechanically followed with stereotyped precision. An innovation + in pattern, by copying some strange designs that strike the + fancy, is far more likely. These distinctions in weaving may be + conveniently divided into those that affect the knot, the warp, + and the weft.<a name="FNanchor_8" id="FNanchor_8"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">8</a></p> + + <p><span class="smcap">The Knot.</span>—Not only may a knot + be tied as a Ghiordes or a Sehna knot, but it may have other + distinguishing peculiarities; as, for instance, it may be of fine + or coarse wool. This is most conveniently observed at the back, + where it will be seen that the knots of rugs such as the Bokhara, + Kirman, Joshaghan, and Bergamo are tied with fine yarn; while the + knots of other rugs, as the Samarkand, <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span> Bijar, + Gorevan, Kurdistan, Yuruk, and Kazak are tied with coarse yarn. + Whether the yarn be fine, medium, or coarse, all specimens of any + class will show a remarkable conformity. Also in some rugs the + knots are drawn very tight against the warp, while in others the + yarn encircles the warp loosely. Any one who has examined the + back of many Sarouks, Kashans, Kirmans, or Daghestans, and rubbed + the finger-nail against them, could not possibly mistake them for + a Shiraz, Kulah, Yuruk, or Karabagh, which are less tightly + woven. Again, as a result of using yarn in which the double + thread that forms two or more ply has been very loosely or very + tightly twisted together, there is some difference in the + direction or slant of the strands forming the yarn, where it + shows at the back, though this feature is not pronounced. For + example, in most Afghans, Yuruks, Bijars, and others the strands + of yarn where it crosses the warp in forming the knot lie for the + most part in a direction parallel to the weft; while in other + rugs, as Mosuls, Kurdistans, and Kazaks, the strands of yarn + slant irregularly. Furthermore, in some rugs, as the Melez and + Yuruks, as a result of the threads of yarn being strung rather + far apart, each half of a knot encircling a thread of warp stands + out at the back distinctly from the other with clear cut edges; + while in many rugs, as the Shiraz or Sehna, each half is very + closely pressed together. Also in some rugs, as Sarabends and + Afshars, each of these half knots where they show at the back + have the same length, measured in a direction parallel to the + warp, as width, measured in a direction parallel to the weft; + while in such rugs as the Kazaks, since the yarn generally + consists of several ply, the length exceeds the width; and in a + few rugs the length is less than the width.</p> + + <p><span class="smcap">The Warp.</span>—The appearance of + the back of a rug is partly due to the relative positions of the + two threads of warp encircled by a knot. If, for instance, in any + Kazak a pin be thrust through the nap wherever a single + perpendicular line of one colour appears at the surface, it will + be seen that each of the two threads of warp encircled by a + single knot lie side by side with equal prominence. This is shown + in Plate <a href="#pb">B</a>, Figs. 7 and 7a (Page 49), in which + the former represents a section of a rug cut transversely to the + threads of warp, and the latter the appearance of the rug at the + back. The same will be found true of Beluchistans, Feraghans, + Yuruks, and many others. If, however, a Kulah, Persian-Kurdish, + or Karabagh be similarly examined, it will be seen that one + thread of warp to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id= + "Page_52">52</a></span> each knot is depressed, so that the back + has a slightly corrugated appearance (as in Plate <a href= + "#pb">B</a>, Figs. 8 and 8a). And in the case of a Bijar or + Sarouk it will be seen that one thread of warp, included in every + knot, has been doubled under so as to be entirely concealed from + view; with the result that the foundation of warp has a double + thickness, which makes the rug much stronger, as in Plate + <a href="#pb">B</a>, Fig. 9, representing a Ghiordes knot, and + Fig. 10 representing a Sehna knot. To be sure, it occasionally + happens that in rugs of a particular class some may have each + thread of warp included in a knot equally prominent and others + may have one slightly depressed; or that in rugs of another class + some may have one thread of warp depressed and others may have it + entirely concealed; but as a rule these tribal features show a + remarkable constancy. These relative positions of the two threads + of warp encircled by a knot are partly due to the degree of + closeness with which the threads of warp are strung, also partly + to the method of inserting the threads of weft or + “filling” between the rows of knots; but more than + all else they are due to the way one end of the knots is pulled + when they are tied.</p> + + <p><span class="smcap">The Weft.</span>—In the character + and arrangement of weft are technical differences that are more + serviceable than any other feature for distinguishing between the + rugs of different tribes and districts. So subtle are some of + them that they can be learned only by long and painstaking study, + and are appreciated by few except native weavers. Nevertheless, + to any one who will carefully examine almost any well-known + classes, it will be apparent that these differences in the weave + are real, and that they are sufficiently constant to + differentiate one class from another. The fine brown weft of the + Bokhara, or equally fine bluish weft of a Sarouk that is almost + concealed between firmly tied knots; the fine thread of cotton + weft passing but once between two rows of knots and covered only + by the transverse warp of the Sehna; the coarse thread of cotton + weft similarly passing but once between two rows of knots in the + Hamadan; the coarse thread of cotton weft that once crossing and + recrossing appears irregularly between appressed rows of knots in + Kermanshahs; the bead-like appearance of the threads of weft + that, as a rule, pass many times between two rows of knots in + Genghas; the crudely spun weft of coarse diameter crossing and + recrossing once between the rows of knots in modern Mosuls; the + very fine reddish brown weft that entirely conceals from view the + warp in old Bergamos, —are features peculiar to these + separate classes with which <span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span>every rug expert is familiar. + The weft of many other classes is equally distinctive, though + there are exceptions to the types. It should be remembered, + however, that the weave of many rugs woven over a hundred and + fifty years ago is different from the weave of rugs woven only + fifty years ago; and that many modern pieces cheaply made for + commercial purposes are more crudely woven than were the same + classes thirty years ago.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> + <a name="p08" id="p08"></a><img src="images/plate08.jpg" + width="450" height="835" alt="Plate 8. Hamadan Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 8. Hamadan + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>These distinctions in the weft relate to the material of which + it is made, its colour, the size of the diameter, the way in + which it is spun, to its loose or compressed condition between + separate rows of knots, as well as to the number of times it + crosses the warp between them, and to whether it is inserted with + much or little slack. Most rugs are woven with woollen weft of a + natural colour, but occasionally it has a reddish brown, a blue, + or a yellow tint. When cotton, jute, or hemp are used, they are + almost invariably of natural colour; only in a very few pieces, + as some of the Kulahs, are both wool and jute ever used in the + same piece. The weft of some classes, as Bokharas, Sarouks, and + Bergamos, is of a very small diameter, and of others, as the + Hamadans and Kurdistans, it is of relatively large diameter. In + some classes, as the Karajes and Genghas, the weft is tightly + spun like twine; while in the Beluchistans, Mosuls, and + Kurdistans it is loosely spun, so that the projecting fibres of + wool give a rough appearance to its surface.</p> + + <p>Also the weavers of some districts invariably compress very + firmly the yarn of weft between every two rows of knots, while + other weavers compress it only to a slight degree; as, for + instance, in the Afghan, Tabriz, and Kirman the rows of knots are + pressed down so firmly that the weft is almost concealed at the + back and the transverse threads of warp are entirely covered; + whilst, on the other hand, in the Karabagh or Kazak between every + two rows of knots the weft and part of the transverse threads of + warp are exposed to view. According as the rows of knots are + pressed down upon the threads of weft or not, one of the two + halves of each separate knot, as shown at the back, may extend + slightly or very much beyond the other in the direction of the + length of the rug, or each of them may lie in a straight line at + right angles to the warp. Comparing Kazak, Kutais, and Tiflis + rugs, for example, it will be noticed that as a rule the line + thus formed in Tiflis rugs is nearly an even, clear cut line at + right angles to the warp, that in the Kutais part of one knot + extends beyond the other, while in Kazaks this unevenness is even + more <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id= + "Page_54">54</a></span> conspicuous. Or again, if typical + Shirvans, Kabistans, and Daghestans be compared, it will be + noticed that in Shirvans the half-knots, or parts of the knot + encircling the two adjacent threads of warp, are often inclined + at an angle of at least thirty degrees to the line of weft so as + to present a serrated appearance, but that the alignment formed + by knots of Daghestans is nearly even, and that of Kabistans is + intermediate. To be sure, there are exceptions to this rule, but + these features are remarkably constant.</p> + + <p>The number of times that a thread of weft is inserted between + two rows of knots varies with the practice of different + localities, but is almost constant in each locality. Weavers of + Sehna rugs insert only a single thread of weft between every two + rows of knots, which winds in front of and behind alternate + threads of warp, with the result that the back of these rugs have + a checkered or quincunx appearance, caused by minute portions of + exposed warp and weft crossing each other at right angles. In + Hamadans a much heavier thread of weft passes only once before + and behind alternate threads of warp, so that the appearance of + the weave is very similar to that of Sehnas.<a name="FNanchor_9" + id="FNanchor_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">9</a> + In almost all other rugs the weft crosses twice, that is, across + and back once, between every two rows of knots so as to + completely encircle each thread of warp. The weave of a few rugs, + as some Anatolians, shows the weft crossing three times, that is, + twice in one direction and once in the opposite direction. In the + Genghas, Tcherkess, Bergamos, and in many rugs over one hundred + and fifty years old, the threads of weft frequently cross many + times; and it is not unusual for the number to vary in different + parts of the same rug. In Plate <a href="#pb">B</a>, Figs. 15, + 16, and 17 (Page 49), is illustrated the appearance of the back + of rugs in which a thread of weft crosses once, twice, and three + times between two adjacent rows of knots. There are likewise rugs + in which the number varies with methodical regularity; for + instance, in Khorassans it is usual to find an extra thread of + weft inserted at intervals of every few rows of knots; in many + Herats the threads of weft cross twice between several successive + rows of knots, then three times between the following several + rows, and so continue to alternate; and in some of the Kulahs a + thread of woollen weft that crosses twice alternates with a + single coarser thread of jute.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id= + "Page_55">55</a></span>As the shuttle passes back and forth, the + thread of weft may be allowed considerable slack, so that when it + is pressed down by the comb it will fit about the sides of the + warp; or it may be drawn tightly across, so that it has a + tendency to displace the threads of warp. If, for instance, a + Hamadan and one of the Feraghans which, unlike the majority of + them, has only one thread of weft crossing between the rows of + knots, be examined, it will be seen that in the Hamadan the weft + crosses with hardly any slack, so that the warp stands out + clearly and well defined at the back; but that in the Feraghan + the weft crosses with much slack, so that it folds about the + warp, which accordingly seems slightly imbedded in it at the + back. In some rugs the weft is passed across once with very + slight slack, and as it recrosses it is allowed much slack. These + features of the weave, which are followed with remarkable + constancy in the same class, can be observed to advantage in a + fragment of a rug cut transversely to the direction of the warp. + If, for instance, the weft which crosses and recrosses between + the rows of knots be carefully removed so as not to disturb its + mould, it will be noticed in the case of many rugs that each + thread of yarn has a similar shape of moderately deep + undulations, which show how it conformed to the warp and indicate + how slack it was when inserted. In the case of a few rugs, as the + Luristans, each thread will likewise have similar undulations, + but they will be very prominent. If, on the other hand, the weft + be removed from some classes, as the Tabriz, Sarouk, and Kashan, + one of the two threads will be almost straight or have slight + undulations, while the other thread will have deep undulations. + The weft of the Herez, Herats, old Khorassans, and Koniehs have + the same peculiarities, excepting that the thread with very + slight undulations is of three or four ply, while the other is of + a single ply.</p> + + <p>The only instruments employed in weaving are the knife, comb, + and scissors. The first is used, after each row of knots has been + tied, to cut the ends of yarn to nearly the proper length; the + second, to press firmly each row of knots; and the last, to trim + the nap with care, so that the finished product may present an + even and compact appearance.</p> + + <p><span class="smcap">Finish of Sides.</span>—As the sides + are constantly exposed to wear weavers of different districts + strengthen them in different ways, which may be designated as + Weft Overcasting, Double Overcasting, Weft Selvage, Double + Selvage, and Added Selvage. Each of these terms, though not + euphonious, suggests the method employed. <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span> In Weft + Overcasting (Plate <a href="#pb">B</a>, Fig. 11, Page 49) the + thread of weft, after encircling the threads of warp to which the + knots are tied, is wound about a much heavier cord that is strung + at the side of the rug for a space equal to the thickness of the + knots. It then partly encircles the threads of warp between the + next two rows of knots as it passes to the other side, when it is + wound about the heavy cord there. As this process continues, the + cords at the sides are completely overcast with the thread of + weft. When the sides have a Double Overcasting (Plate <a href= + "#pb">B</a>, Fig. 12), heavy yarn is wound about the cord that + has previously been encircled by the weft. Frequently several + threads of yarn take the place of a single heavy cord. Weft + Selvage (Plate <a href="#pb">B</a>, Fig. 13) is made by placing + two or more heavy cords instead of a single one at the side of + the warp, and encircling them by the weft in figure-eight + fashion. As they extend beyond the rows of knots they form a + plain flat selvage. The Double Selvage (Plate <a href= + "#pb">B</a>, Fig. 14) is used among nomadic tribes such as the + Beluches and Afghans, whose rugs receive an unusual amount of + hard wear, so that an extra selvage is necessary. In adding this + extra selvage the threads of weft are carried about the heavy + cords, as in weft selvage, and then the extra yarn is wound over + it in figure-eight fashion so as again to encircle the heavy + cords. In Added Selvage the heavy cords are not encircled by the + weft, but are attached to the side of the rug by the extra yarn + that winds about them figure-eight fashion, and also encircles + two or more adjoining threads of warp. Sometimes also the selvage + is “Mixed,” or made by the weft encircling only one + or two of the heavy cords, and then an extra yarn is wound about + these and the remaining cord or cords. Moreover, the Double + Overcasting and Double Selvage may be “attached” more + firmly to the sides of the rug by the yarn passing in + figure-eight fashion about the adjacent thread or threads of warp + between the two rows of knots. When a Double Overcasting is thus + “attached,” it is somewhat similar to a two-cord + Double Selvage.</p> + + <p>These are the principal methods of finishing the sides, though + they are sometimes modified by tribal customs. Simple as they + seem, skill is required in both overcasting and making the + selvage; for if carelessly done the sides are frequently made to + curl. This is occasionally found to be the defect of old rugs, + the worn sides of which have been recently overcast by + inexperienced weavers. When such is the case, removing the + stitches and overcasting with more care will remove the + defect.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p09" id="p09"></a><img src="images/plate09.jpg" + width="550" height="856" alt="Plate 9. Sarouk Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 9. Sarouk + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id= + "Page_57">57</a></span><span class="smcap">Finish of + Ends.</span>—The ends, which receive more attention than + the sides, are treated in several different ways; and in many + rugs a distinction exists between the treatment of each end. The + simplest finish is where the warp and weft are woven like the + threads of a kilim, and extend beyond the pile as a web, which + may be exceedingly short, or, as in Beluches and Afghans, several + inches long. Frequently the ends are finished by a selvage formed + by cords heavier than the weft braided into the warp; or the + upper end may be doubled back and hemmed. It is not unusual to + find both web and selvage; but though the finish be web, selvage, + or web and selvage, the warp of the end finished last generally + forms a fringe, and often each end will have a fringe. Sometimes + each separate thread of warp hangs loose; sometimes a number a + foot or more in length are twisted together in cords; and again + they are knotted or are tied to one another diagonally so as to + form a network from which hang the loose ends. Very frequently + the loops formed by the warp that encircled the rod extend beyond + the web at the lower end of the rug, or else are braided about + the ultimate thread of weft in the web. Though the warp and weft + are generally undyed in the body of the rug, the web of the ends + is very frequently coloured. Some of the webs, particularly those + of the Beluches, are embroidered; and through others, as the + Kurdistans, a parti-coloured cord runs transversely; still + others, as Bergamos, are adorned with shells, beads, or other + articles to avert the evil eye.</p> + + <p>In the study of rugs it should be remembered that the effect + of rough usage is so considerable that in old pieces the webs of + the ends have frequently disappeared, leaving short fringes + composed of the ends of warp from which some rows of knots have + been removed, and that recent overcasting of the sides may take + the place of former selvage.</p> + + <p>The many characteristics of knot, warp, weft, sides, and ends, + with all the variations made by innumerable tribes, remarkably + constant in their methods, are technical peculiarities that are + uninteresting to those who feel only an aesthetic interest in + rugs, yet they demand the most careful consideration of whoever + would learn to differentiate accurately between the many classes. + Though admitting of exceptions, these peculiarities are real and + definite, yet their analyses often require the subtlest + perception of small though exact distinctions, without which + expert understanding would be impossible.</p> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id= + "Page_58">58</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER VI</h3> + + <h4>DESIGNS AND SYMBOLS</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/h.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="H" + title="H" /></span>OWEVER well woven, however resplendent in rich + modulations of colour, Oriental rugs would quickly lose their + fascination if in patterns and designs there were not at least + some partial expression of the simple lives of the people, of + their religious feelings, and of that veiled mysticism which + pervades the thought of every Eastern race.</p> + + <p>In all nomadic rugs as well as in many others are innumerable + reminders of common life. It may be only crude outlines of the + goat or camel, or realistically drawn rose and lily; but even + these are suggestive of associations.</p> + + <p>Religion, too, exercised on the character of rugs an important + influence, which is expressed in the symbolism of both designs + and colour. Without a doubt, some of these well-known designs + have been transmitted from the earliest times, and were once + associated with different forms of idolatry. Thus, among the old + Babylonians the sun and moon, which are sometimes seen in the old + pieces, represented particular deities; and very many of the + oldest Chinese rugs that remain also contain symbols of their + deities. In the early religion of Iran, which over 1000 years + <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> was reduced to a system by + Zoroaster, the elements were worshipped, so that designs + representing these elements would likewise represent the divine + forces they personified. This ancient fire worship of the + Parsees, which even to-day has a few devotees in parts of Persia, + and the kindred sun worship have added much to the symbolism of + Oriental rugs. Buddhism also has contributed its share; and with + the spread of Mohammedanism appeared a Saracenic influence that + is frequently recognised. Even the two great sects of Mohammedan + followers, the Shiites and Sunnites, have had distinct effects in + the use of designs, as the former employed animal figures and the + latter prohibited them.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p10" id="p10"></a><img src="images/plate10.jpg" + width="500" height="790" alt="Plate 10. Sarabend Rug" title= + "" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 10. Sarabend + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id= + "Page_59">59</a></span>There was, moreover, a symbolism that in a + manner expressed the vague philosophic teachings of the ancient + races. It was but natural that the early weaver engaged in + tedious sedentary work, often requiring many months of constant + application to complete, should endeavour to express therein not + only artistic taste, but also the spirit of his innermost + thoughts. So as he wove he sometimes left the result, though + poorly defined and little understood to-day, of that struggle to + interpret the great mysteries of the visible and unseen universe, + from which arose the crude beginnings of philosophy.<a name= + "FNanchor_10" id="FNanchor_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10" class= + "fnanchor">10</a></p> + + <p>The patterns, however, of many Oriental rugs are chiefly + decorative. Even a casual examination shows that in all of them + the coloured knots of the surface represent a border surrounding + a central field. The former serves much the same function to the + latter as a frame to a picture; yet its office is in no wise + subordinate. Nor is there any part of the pattern more useful in + determining the place of its origin. For this reason it is well + to clearly define the special names which in this work are + applied to its different parts. The lineal divisions are + designated “Stripes,” though they are frequently + spoken of as separate borders. At or near the centre of the + border is the main stripe, which is generally accompanied by a + much narrower pair, one on each side, known as “Guard + stripes.” Very narrow stripes are sometimes called + “Ribbon stripes,” and those of only one or two knots + in width are called “Lines.” The latter are of solid + colour or have the simplest geometric device. The decoration of + the ribbon stripes is also necessarily simple; but in the main + stripe of artistic rugs the patterns are often exceedingly + elaborate, of exquisite colours, and co-ordinate in character + with those of the field.</p> + + <p>The fields display even greater diversity of pattern than the + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id= + "Page_60">60</a></span>borders. Frequently they are covered with + a heterogeneous mass of detached and unrelated figures, as in + many of the nomadic rugs; or, on the other hand, are entirely + covered with repetitive patterns, as in the Turkomans; or with + intricate and correlated designs, as in the diaper and floral + patterns of so many of the Persian and Indian rugs. Others + consist of a background of solid colour on which appear isolated + formal designs, as in some of the Khorassans, or medallions on + which are represented smaller figures, as in some of the old + Sehnas and Feraghans. Occasionally the medallions are so large as + to extend to the sides and ends of the fields, and thus separate + the corners into nearly triangular shaped sections, such as are + characteristic of a number of Persian and one or two Caucasian + rugs. In a few of the latter, also, the fields are covered with + large geometric figures suggesting the medallions. It is only + within comparatively modern times that weavers have used solid + colours for large portions of the fields. The intent no doubt was + a saving in labour and pains, but the effect is frequently most + gratifying; as when, for instance, the space beneath the arch of + Asia Minor prayer rugs is of a uniform red, blue, or cream, + relieved only by a gracefully suspended lamp, the tree of life, + or some other emblem of immortality.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id= + "Page_61">61</a></span></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pc" id="pc"></a><img src="images/platec.jpg" + width="550" height="851" alt="Plate C.--Prayer Arches of Persian, Caucasian, and Central Asiatic Rugs" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate C.—Prayer + Arches of Persian, Caucasian, and Central Asiatic + Rugs</span></p> + + <p class="center3">No. 1, Antique silk. No. 2, Kermanshah. No. + 3, Khorassan. No. 4, Sarouk. No. 5, Persian, XVI Century. No. + 6, Kashan. No. 7, Feraghan. No. 8, Shiraz. No. 9, Daghestan, + Kabistan, Shirvan, Chichi, Kazak, Karabagh. No. 10, Kazak. No. + 11, Shirvan. No. 12, Karabagh (not usual). No. 13, Beluchistan. + No. 14, Bokhara, Tekke. No. 15, Khiva. No. 16, Beshire.</p> + </div> + + <p>The patterns of prayer rugs are not only pleasing, but have a + peculiar importance, as weavers of certain sections of the + country adhere so strictly to time-honoured traditions that the + shape of the arch, or mihrab, which is the principal feature, + often denotes the class, as well as the group, to which they + belong. Some of these arches are illustrated in Plates <a href= + "#pc">C</a> and <a href="#pd">D</a> (Pages 61 and 63), from which + it will be seen that in Persian rugs they are formed by + gracefully curving lines, but that in rugs of other groups, with + the exception of a very few old Ghiordes pieces, they are + geometric. The peculiarities of the arches of the several + classes, also, are observable; as those of the Beluchistans, + which are rectilinear and relatively high, and those of the + Bokharas, which are tent-shaped, flat, and small. In the + Caucasian group they have a marked resemblance to one another and + also to those of the Turkoman rugs, but are larger than the + latter. Again, the arch of almost all Asia Minor rugs rises + higher than those of any others, excepting the Persian, and + extends from one side of the field to the other. In many of them + a panel is placed above the spandrel, and occasionally a second + panel is placed beneath the field. Above the niche of some Asia + Minor and Caucasian prayer rugs <span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span>is woven a small rhomboidal + figure, where the suppliant plants the pebble or bit of earth + that he has brought from Mecca; and at the sides of a few arches + are crude figures, where are placed the hands during the act of + worship. More than one arch is the exception; but now and then + are seen two and even four, one above the other, or several + parallel to one another. These and other special features + associated with prayer rugs will be considered more fully in + subsequent chapters.</p> + + <p>The smaller designs that appear in rugs and compose the + general pattern are distinguished as geometric and floral + ornamentation. The former is adopted in those countries where the + population is principally nomadic; and the latter is the accepted + style in countries where exist numerous towns and cities in which + the arts have been cultivated and where a large percentage of the + population have enjoyed an advanced state of society. Thus in + Caucasia, Turkestan, Afghanistan, and Beluchistan geometric + designs are characteristic of the rugs; but in China, India, + Persia, and part of Asia Minor floral designs prevail. Sir George + Birdwood, an eminent authority on Oriental rugs, has made the + statement that the geometric designs are found among the lower + Turanian and the floral among the higher Aryan. But it seems most + probable that the adoption of the geometric or floral style of + ornamentation is due not so much to racial distinctions as to the + state to which the textile art had advanced among the different + peoples and to the waves of influence that at times spread over + the countries. Thus the early rugs of Asia Minor had patterns + that were more geometric than those of later times, and during + the period when the Mongols ruled in Persia geometric patterns + were more frequently employed in the rugs of that country than + subsequently.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id= + "Page_63">63</a></span></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pd" id="pd"></a><img src="images/plated.jpg" + width="550" height="866" alt="Plate D.--Prayer Arches of Asia Minor Rugs" title= + "" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate D.—Prayer + Arches of Asia Minor Rugs</span></p> + + <p class="center3">Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, Ghiordes. Nos. 5, 6, 7, + Kulah. No. 8, Ladik. Nos. 9, 10, Bergamo. Nos. 11, 12, Melez. + No. 13, Kir-shehr, Mudjar. Nos. 14, 15, Konieh. No. 16, + Anatolian.</p> + </div> + + <p>In all rugs, however, some trace of the floral design appears. + Even in the Turkoman weavings, the pattern of which is strictly + geometric, some vestige of the tree of life is manifest. In the + fields of Caucasian rugs, in which are represented squares, + octagons, triangles, diagonals, lozenges, stars, etc., the + weavers have depicted designs that are almost as geometric as + those of the Turkoman rugs by which they have been influenced; + but, on the other hand, large numbers of the border designs are + distinctly floral. In the rugs of China and Asia Minor are found + both geometric and floral ornamentation, the latter predominating + in pieces woven during the last two centuries, and the former in + those of earlier date. Among ><span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span> the woven fabrics of India + and Persia, however, few traces of the geometric pattern remain; + but vines, leaves, and flowers form the favourite theme for + decoration.</p> + + <p>The floral patterns are the result of many centuries of + growth, that reached its highest development in the Persian + carpets of the XVI and XVII Centuries; and since then till the + present time they have continued as the most characteristic + features of the rugs of that country and India. They represent + the highest technique of the weaver. In the borders are generally + represented vines from which are pendant rosettes, palmettes, or + flowers; and in the fields, particularly those of the fine + antique rugs, are a profusion of floral forms realistically + portrayed. On long, gracefully twining and intertwining stems is + often the rose, pink, violet, lotus, crocus, narcissus, or daisy. + But if the rug is more modern, in its field of uniform colour may + be represented a central medallion covered with delicate tracings + enriched by bright-coloured conventionalised flowers.</p> + + <p>In the general pattern of all rugs are interwoven particular + designs or motives that give them a distinctive character and + render the greatest assistance in distinguishing the groups and + classes. Thus the serrated leaf and wine cup (Plate <a href= + "#pi">I</a>, Fig. 1, opp. Page 226) is found only in Caucasian + and old Armenian rugs; and the design represented in Plate + <a href="#ph">H</a>, Fig. 10 (opp. Page 194), suggestive of some + Chinese character, is found almost exclusively in Kulahs. Not + only are all designs important as aids in classification, but + they have a special interest, as it is maintained by writers of + the highest authority that when employed by the earliest weavers + each had a symbolic meaning. To be sure, the origin of many has + been lost in the remote past and is unknown even to those who now + employ them; but others still represent definite ideas, as they + did centuries ago, and portray to some extent the thought of the + weaver. They therefore deserve the most careful study.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p11" id="p11"></a><img src="images/plate11.jpg" + width="550" height="779" alt="Plate 11. Carpet from Northwestern Persia" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 11. Carpet from + Northwestern Persia</span></p> + + <p class="center">Loaned by C. F. Williams, Esq., to the + Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York</p> + </div> + + <p>Few of these designs have been transmitted from a more remote + past or have been more universally employed than has been the + figure <img class="floatInsert" src="images/ssign.jpg" width="22" height="27" alt= + "Symbol: S" /> or <img class="floatInsert" src= + "images/hssign.jpg" width="22" height="28" alt="Symbol: horizontal S" />. It appears in + each of the groups of Oriental rugs excepting the Chinese; and + two of the forms it assumes are exceedingly like the arms of the + swastika and parts of the fret as occasionally seen in Chinese + designs. In Indian rugs it is rarely found except in the borders, + which may have been copied from those of other countries. It is + very commonly seen in the Beluchistans, <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span>Tekkes, and + Beshires, of the Central Asiatic group; and in the rugs of the + Persian group that show nomadic influences. There is probably not + a single class of the Caucasian group, nor any of the Asia Minor + group, with the exception of the old Ghiordes, in which it is not + sometimes represented. It may be seen near the corner of the Asia + Minor “Dragon and Phœnix” carpet of the XIV + Century, illustrated in Plate <a href="#p20">20</a> (opp. Page + 88); and appears in some of the old Armenian carpets, which are + believed to be even older. That it was associated with sun + worship and regarded as an emblem of light and the deity is the + accepted belief. It is possible, however, that it was intended by + some weavers to represent the serpent, which among many different + races is emblematic of superhuman knowledge.</p> + + <p>Probably no other design has been more universally employed + than the swastika, which appears in the textile fabrics of North + American Indians, on the Maya ruins of Yucatan, among the + monuments of the Nile, and on the temples of India. Widely as is + its distribution, its most usual form of intersecting right + angles is found in each of these countries. It is not improbable + that it originated in China, where it is a most common decorative + motive, and was almost invariably represented in the borders and + in many of the medallions of rugs woven before the beginning of + the XVIII Century. It is also very frequently seen in the rugs of + Samarkand, and occasionally in those of Caucasia. It seldom + appears in the rugs of Persia, Asia Minor, or Turkestan. The + universality of the design indicates its great antiquity, yet its + primitive symbolic meaning of abundance, fertility, and + prosperity has never been lost. Some of its different forms are + shown in Plate <a href="#po">O</a>, Figs. 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d, 5e, and + 5f (Page 291).</p> + + <p>The reciprocal trefoil (Plate <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 17, + opp. Page 158) is a very usual design in Caucasian and Persian + rugs; it is often found in some of the rugs of India and in + Beluchistans, but is very rarely seen in other classes of the + Central Asiatic or in the Chinese and Asia Minor groups. Its + origin is uncertain, but since it appears in the “Polish + Carpets” and other antique Persian carpets of strictly + floral pattern, where its drawing is more elaborate than in + modern rugs, it is not improbable that it is the conventionalised + form of the lily or a spray bearing three leaves, and that it has + the emblematic significance of the tree form.</p> + + <p>Among all primitive races the sun, moon, and stars have been + associated with their religion, so that it is surprising that so + few<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id= + "Page_66">66</a></span> emblems of them are recognised in rugs. + In the theology of the Chaldees, from which the earliest weavers + must have received inspiration, the sun was regarded as one of + their principal deities and the moon as another. The sun is + generally represented by a plain circle, a circle with diameters + intersecting at right angles, or a circle with small ovals + intersecting at right angles; the moon is represented by the + crescent. Of much more frequent occurrence is the eight-pointed + star, another inheritance of those ancient times when all + primitive races worshipped the heavenly bodies. It represented + the female principle of the Chaldean sun god; and it is believed, + too, that it represented the deity to the Medes, ancestors of + many of the present Persians. There is a tradition among some + Eastern races that King Solomon wore a ring of diamonds arranged + in the form of an eight-pointed star, and also a crown containing + a large star of which the eight points and centre were composed + of precious stones of different colour. A star now and then seen + in rugs with colours so arranged is known as + “Mohammedan’s jewel design.” The six-pointed + star, a Jewish symbol for the “shield of David,” was + adopted as a talisman by some of the Moslems. All of these stars + are chiefly nomadic symbols, they rarely if ever are seen in the + rugs of China or India, they are only occasionally found in those + of Persia, and are of most frequent occurrence in the Caucasian + pieces.</p> + + <p>Another design is an octagonal-shaped disc (Plate <a href= + "#po">O</a>, Fig. 10, Page 291), usually about two and a half + inches in diameter, on the face of which and extending the full + width are figures somewhat like hour-glasses placed at right + angles to one another. It seems not improbable that it is of the + same origin as the large designs that appear in the field of the + Holbein rug of the XV Century, illustrated in Plate <a href= + "#p21">21</a> (opp. Page 92). It is a very old motive, and is + sometimes regarded as a dial symbolising the diurnal motion of + the earth. It is of very frequent occurrence in nomadic rugs; and + is found in Beluchistans, in nearly all Caucasians, in some rugs + from Asia Minor, and in only a very few from Persia.</p> + + <p>The zigzag line, known as the water motive, is found in many + of the rugs of China, India, Persia, Caucasia, and Asia Minor, as + well as in the Beluchistans and Beshires of the Central Asiatic + group, though in some instances it appears as little more than a + serrated line. It is represented in the narrow guard-stripes of + some of the Western Asia Minor carpets of the XV Century. + According to Mr. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id= + "Page_67">67</a></span> John Mumford, “even in the oldest + Egyptian symbolism a zigzag line stood for water and by + implication for eternity; and a succession of these arranged to + represent the sea has long been a recognised carpet design in + India, China, and Persia.”</p> + + <h4><i>COLOUR PLATE III—MOSUL RUG</i></h4> + + <p><i>Long before the commercial instinct had been felt among the + weavers of the Orient, one or more of them dwelling in the + Mesopotamian valley tied the knots of this old Mosul. The central + field is of camel’s hair that shades from a rich dark + chestnut at one end to lighter tones at the other, and is + enlivened by bright flowers representing those found on the + river’s banks. This variation of ground colour, the small + geometric designs at the extreme ends of the fields, the + eight-pointed stars of the main stripe of the border, and some of + the drawing are nomadic characteristics. The dainty vine and + flower of the narrow guard stripes, on the other hand, show + Persian influence. This piece represents a type of which few now + remain.</i></p> + + <p class="name"><small><i>Property of the Author</i></small></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> + <a name="piii" id="piii"></a><img src="images/plate_iii.jpg" + width="300" height="853" alt="" title="" /> + </div> + + <p>One of the most common designs is what has been called the + “latch-hook.” When there is a long succession of + latch-hooks with the straight ends resting on a line and the + hooked ends inclined in the same direction, as in Plate <a href= + "#pk">K</a>, Fig. 20 (opp. Page 230), they are called + “running latch-hooks.” Since they appear in the + Dragon and Phœnix rug (opp. Page 88), that was probably + woven about the end of the XIV Century, they are evidently a very + old design, which not improbably was derived from the Chinese + fret. The hook is of different shapes, and is sometimes + perpendicular, sometimes inclined. Its particular function is to + shade or subdue the harsh effect of a sudden transition from one + colour to another that is entirely different. As such a device is + unnecessary in artistic rugs of intricate designs, it is rarely + seen in any Indian or Persian piece, excepting the modern Shiraz + that frequently adopts geometric patterns; but it is found in all + the rugs of Caucasia, Central Asia, and in most of those of Asia + Minor. It is in fact as universal as the reciprocal trefoil.</p> + + <p>In rugs of geometric patterns are occasionally found both + Greek and Roman crosses. The latter are represented in most of + the Soumak rugs, and appear profusely in old Asia Minor or + Armenian rugs, in which they were probably woven with the intent + to convey a religious significance; but in many instances crosses + are not used symbolically.</p> + + <p>The design of a comb (Plate <a href="#po">O</a>, Fig. 11, Page + 291) is a Mohammedan emblem suggestive of cleanliness, yet it is + not improbable that it is sometimes intended to represent the + instrument employed in pressing the threads of weft closely + against the knots. It is found mostly in Caucasian rugs, and + rarely in those of other groups.</p> + + <p>In a large number of the finest carpets woven in Persia three + or four centuries ago was represented what is known as the + Chinese cloud-band (Plate <a href="#po">O</a>, Fig. 7). It + appeared in Persia about the middle of the XV Century, and was + conspicuous in the carpets of Herat, Tabriz, and Gilan, as well + as in many of the “Polish Carpets.” Later it was + introduced into Asia Minor, but was never represented in any of + the strictly nomadic weavings. It appears in only a very few of + the modern rugs, and these are mostly Persian. Nor is + it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id= + "Page_68">68</a></span> recognised in its usual form in any of + the Chinese rugs that now exist; though without a doubt it + originated with the Chinese, since their early mythology placed + the abode of the Supreme Ruler in the Constellation of Ursa + Major, of which the stars of the Big Dipper were represented in + early art as enveloped in a band of clouds; but in more + conventionalised ornamentation the stars are omitted and the band + remains. As a motive, then, it is symbolic of heaven and the + deity.</p> + + <p>In almost all rugs are found expressions of vegetable life, as + a twig, vine, flower, or tree. Sometimes they are most + naturalistic, again they are partly conventionalised, or so + disguised, as in nomadic rugs of geometric designs, that only by + study and comparison of many forms in a series can their origin + be established. This universal adoption of floral form was due to + something more than an aesthetic love for the beautiful, since in + every country of the East some part of the tree or plant was + emblematic. Moreover, a tree form known as the Tree of Life had a + religious significance among many races. The Jews were told that + in the Garden of Eden grew the “Tree of Knowledge of Good + and Evil;” and in the Book of Revelation the Apostle John + speaks of “The Tree of Life which bore twelve manner of + fruits and yielded her fruit every month, and the leaves of the + tree were for the healing of the nations.” From this + passage may have been borrowed the belief of the Mohammedans in + the Tree of Life which grew in Paradise, and spread its branches + that true believers might rest beneath them and enjoy its fruits + and the companionship of beautiful houri. In the ancient lore of + China is the Taoist tradition of the Tree of Life, growing by the + Sea of Jade, that confers immortality on the fortunate who may + gather and eat its fruits; also the tradition of the mountain top + where grows the sacred tree on which the elect may climb and + mount to heaven. Even among the ancient Chaldees was a story of a + tree that grew to heaven and sheltered the earth. In different + countries the Tree of Life is represented by different kinds; in + Yarkand of Eastern Turkestan it takes the form of a cedar; in + Persia it is generally the cypress. Wherever employed it is + symbolic of knowledge, resurrection, immortality.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p12" id="p12"></a><img src="images/plate12.jpg" + width="550" height="805" alt="Plate 12. Carpet from Northwestern Persia" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 12. Carpet from + Northwestern Persia</span></p> + + <p class="center2">Loaned by C. F. Williams, Esq., to the + Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York</p> + </div> + + <p>No other form of vegetable life was so universally employed in + Oriental symbolism as the lotus flower (Plate <a href= + "#po">O</a>, Figs. 16a, b, and c), since the Egyptian, Assyrian, + Indian, Chinese, and Persian alike did it reverence. It was, + perhaps, first employed emblematically<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span> in the + valley of the Nile, but later it was held in high esteem by the + inhabitants of India where the floating blossom is regarded as an + emblem of the world. It was inseparately associated with Buddha, + and its religious significance must have extended with the spread + of Buddhism. Professor Goodyear regards a large number of designs + that apparently are not related in form as derived from it + through a long series of evolutions. During the highest + development of the textile art in Persia it appears most + realistically drawn in a large number of the carpets, especially + the so-called Ispahans, or Herats, and the so-called Polish. It + is also most artistically represented in the fabrics of India, + and is a favourite design for Chinese weavers. But in other + modern rugs it is seldom used as a motive, and is so + conventionalised as often to escape notice.</p> + + <p>If the lotus was the first flower to be represented in early + woven fabrics, as seems not improbable, several others have met + with greater favour among modern weavers. Of these the rose, + which is cultivated extensively in the gardens of the East, + appears in a large number of the rugs of Persia and Asia Minor. + Moreover, a pattern frequently seen in many old Persian rugs is + an all-over pattern of small bushes with flowering roses. Almost + equally popular is the lily, which is characteristic of many of + the rugs of India and of a few of Western Asia Minor. The + “Euphrates flower,” which grows by the river banks of + the Mesopotamian valley, is also occasionally found as an + all-over pattern in some of the rugs of Western Iran and Southern + Caucasia. Less frequently seen and still less frequently + recognised, as they are generally woven in small figures, are the + daisy, anemone, crocus, narcissus, pink, and violet. All are + depicted chiefly on account of their associations and beauty, and + whatever emblematic meaning they are intended to convey is + generally no more than that of their colours. There are, however, + in a few old Persian carpets designs of sunflowers, which were + accepted by the Zoroastrians and the earlier sun and fire + worshippers as symbols of the sun and emblems of light.</p> + + <p>Of the fruits of the earth none is more highly esteemed than + the pomegranate, which was sculptured in temples of Mesopotamia + and embroidered on the robes of Assyrian and Jewish priests. In + the days of King Solomon it was cultivated in Palestine, where + the Israelites, like modern Persians, made a sherbet by mixing + its juice with sugar and spices. At the time of Homer it was + cultivated in Phrygia. Now it grows wild over vast tracts of + Syria, Persia, and Asia<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" + id="Page_70">70</a></span> Minor. Yet it rarely appears + conspicuously in any woven fabrics excepting the Ladik prayer + rugs, in which it is invariably seen. Since the weavers of these, + whether Christian or Moslem, would probably be familiar with many + of the old Jewish and Assyrian rites, it is not unlikely that it + refers emblematically to its religious associations rather than + symbolises, as has been suggested, the idea of fruitfulness as + expressed in the Turkish wedding custom where the bride throws a + pomegranate at her feet that the scattered seed may fore-tell the + number of her children.</p> + + <p>In almost every rug of Persia, India, and Asia Minor there is + in some part of the border a vine with pendant leaves, flowers, + rosettes, or palmettes; and even in many Caucasian rugs of + geometric pattern the vine with its appendages is seen in + conventionalised form. In a few of the more sumptuous carpets, + where the drawing is elaborate, delicate tendrils bearing flowers + or the more formal designs of the Herati border take the place of + the vine, from which they were evolved. In such borders the + designs generally convey no symbolic meaning, but the simpler + vine encircling the field without beginning or end represents + symbolically the continuity of purpose and permanency.</p> + + <p>One of the most interesting designs (Plate <a href= + "#po">O</a>, Fig. 6, Page 291) is known as the Cone, Palm, Mango, + Almond, River Loop, and Pear. By some it is believed to represent + no more than the closed palm of the hand, since there is an old + tradition in Persia that a weaver once asked his little son to + devise for him a new design, whereupon the boy thrust his hand + into a pot of dye, then placed it sidewise upon a piece of white + linen, on which became impressed the “palm” design + formed by the hand and incurving small finger. By some it is + regarded as a cluster of old Iranian crown jewels. To others, who + point to the well-known pattern of the Kashmir weaving, it + denotes the bend of the river Jhelum above Srinagar in the valley + of Kashmir; and to Sir George Birdwood it symbolises the flame + sacred to ancient fire worshippers. In this work it will be + called the Pear, the name now generally applied to it. In the + course of the many centuries that have elapsed since its origin, + and in its migration through India, Persia, Turkestan, Caucasia, + and Asia Minor, it has adopted more strange shapes than any other + device. In the rugs of Sarabend it is represented in its + best-known form of simple curving lines, in the Bakus its + identity is almost lost on account of its geometric appearance, + and in the fabrics of India it is often very <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span>ornate. + Though its origin is hidden in the mists of the past, when its + antiquity is considered, and also the devotion of the early races + to the glowing orb of the sun and to terrestrial fires, it is not + surprising that it has been regarded as a relic of the + Zoroastrian faith of old Iran, symbolising the eternal flames + before which the Parsees worshipped.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p13" id="p13"></a><img src="images/plate13.jpg" + width="550" height="786" alt="Plate 13. Compartment Carpet in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 13. Compartment + Carpet in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York</span></p> + </div> + + <p>If the floral designs are more beautiful, others are more + truly symbolic, and when appearing in rugs of barbaric patterns + they are more interesting. Of these the creeping things are + represented by the serpent, scorpion, turtle, crab, and + tarantula. Among a few races of Asia the serpent, which is found + in a few old Persian carpets, has been regarded as emblematic of + immortality, but has been more frequently considered as the + symbol of knowledge. The scorpion, also, was supposed to + represent the idea of knowledge. It does not often appear in + woven design, but is sometimes drawn with careful precision in + Caucasian fabrics. The turtle or tortoise stands for constancy. + What is called the “turtle border” (Plate <a href= + "#pe">E</a>, Fig. 3, opp. Page 156), which was probably derived + from interlacing arabesques, occurs most frequently in Feraghans + and also in some other Persian rugs, as Muskabads, Sarabends, + Serapis, and even the Sehnas. The tarantula and crab designs are + found exclusively in borders of Caucasian rugs. As their + resemblance to the animals they are supposed to represent is + remote, it is most probable that they are simply the + conventionalised forms of the star and palmette.</p> + + <p>Among the designs seen in Chinese rugs are several not found + in any others. Of these the dragon, originally intended as a + symbol of the infinite, denotes imperial power; the stork, long + life; the duck, conjugal felicity; the bat, happiness; and the + butterfly, a spirit. These designs will be noticed in the chapter + on Chinese rugs.</p> + + <p>With few exceptions the only modern rugs in which birds are + represented are the Persian. The drawing as a rule is far from + natural; but in the fine old carpets it is often so accurate as + to show unmistakably the order to which they belong. Several of + them were used symbolically, as the bird of paradise, suggestive + of felicity; the peacock, symbol of fire; the eagle, emblem of + power. The attitude, to be sure, in which they appear, affects in + a measure their symbolic meaning; as an eagle in flight denotes + good fortune, but one in the act of descending denotes ill + luck.</p> + + <p>As the Mohammedan religion interdicts portraying birds and + beasts as well as human forms, they are rarely seen in any rug + of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id= + "Page_72">72</a></span> Western Asia Minor, which is inhabited by + the Sunnites, the strict conformists to the law of the Koran; but + in Mohammedan countries lying farther to the east, where the + Shiites or nonconformists live, animal designs are very common. + In modern rugs of Persia and Caucasia, dogs, goats, and camels + are the most popular animal subjects, but the drawing is often so + poor that the identity is in doubt. In the old carpets, on the + other hand, animals and human beings were most realistically + drawn, and were intended to represent symbolically the + weaver’s thought. In fact, those masterpieces of Persian + art known as the “Hunting Carpets” would lose much of + their interest if their many forms of animal life were without + symbolic meaning. In them the lion is a symbol of victory, power, + the sun, and the day; the antelope and unicorn are symbols of + restfulness and the moon. The lion destroying an antelope would + mean, then, the victory of day over night, or of a powerful over + a weak foe. Leopards and hounds likewise symbolise success and + fame. There are also mythological creatures, as the phœnix, + emblematic of life and resurrection, and the winged <i>djinni</i> + or Persian spirits, that often adorn the fields and borders of + some of the elaborate antique carpets of Iran.</p> + + <p>Not only the forms of vegetable and animal life and their + relative attitudes to one another were intended to convey a + symbolic meaning, but among almost all ancient races colours had + a special significance. To the Moslems no colour was more sacred + than the green, which, though difficult to produce in beautiful + tones, they have placed in the fields of many of their prayer + rugs. To them, also, blue was the emblem of eternity, and in the + spandrels above the arches it was the symbol of the sky. Though + to the Hindoo it denotes ill luck, it was the chosen colour of + the Persians, as well as one of the imperial colours of the + Chinese. Among all nations yellow, another imperial colour of + China, and red are suggestive of joy and happiness. Such colours, + when used in conjunction with other emblems, expressed not only + beauty, but also different shades of thought.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> + <a name="p14" id="p14"></a><img src="images/plate14.jpg" + width="450" height="820" alt="Plate 14. Persian Animal Carpet in the Metropolitan Museum Of Art, New York" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 14. Persian Animal + Carpet in the Metropolitan Museum Of Art, New York</span></p> + </div> + + <p>These are but a few of the many motives that are employed by + the weaver. Some of them represent objects intimately associated + with his daily life. Some of them reflect his thoughts and + emotions. Others are the still unsolved hieroglyphics of his + craft. When, then, we examine some old worn rug, we may see only + an exquisite pattern resplendent in the deep rich colours of an + art <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id= + "Page_73">73</a></span>now lost; but if to an æsthetic + taste be added an interest in a symbolism that expresses + something of the thought and life of the weaver, we may find in + the study of the various designs another charm that increases + with the discovery of any previously hidden meaning.</p> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id= + "Page_74">74</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER VII</h3> + + <h4>RUG WEAVING BEFORE THE XVIII CENTURY</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/t.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="T" + title="T" /></span>HERE are no records to definitely indicate in + what land the art of rug weaving originated, or to disprove that + it developed independently in different lands. It would be + unreasonable, then, to assume that rugs were not woven in + northern regions as early as in southern. In fact, during the + Neolithic age the Lake-dwellers of Switzerland grew and spun + flax, and it is believed that they had looms. Moreover, it is + probable that the savages of cold climates soon learned to weave + garments with the long wool of their sheep or goats; and the + similar process of weaving mats for the floors of their huts + would naturally follow. Nevertheless, such evidence as now + remains points to the civilisations of the Euphrates or the Nile, + as the birthplace of this art.</p> + + <p>Though we do not know when the first rugs were made, without a + doubt they existed before the pyramids of Egypt or the palaces of + Babylon had risen from the plains. Among the rock-cut tombs of + Beni-Hassan in Egypt, that date from about 2500 B. C. are + pictures of men with spindles, of looms and weavers. There is + also unmistakable evidence of the antiquity of a high state of + the textile art among the ruins in the valleys of the Tigris and + the Euphrates. On carved walls of the palaces of Nineveh, where + dwelt the rulers of Assyria over three thousand years ago, are + elaborate drawings indicating that carpets of remarkable + workmanship were then in use. In the borders of some of the robes + worn by the rulers are designs of rosettes and latch-hooks, and + on one is depicted the tree of life, similar to what may be seen + in modern rugs. Nor are ancient writers silent. In the Old + Testament are frequent references to woven fabrics. Homer, also, + speaks of them in his Odyssey. Herodotus, Diodorus, Pliny, + Strabo, in fact almost all classic writers have mentioned them. + Moreover, designs on pot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" + id="Page_75">75</a></span>tery, bowls, tiles, and walls, similar + in appearance to those found in the oldest existing carpets, + carry contributory evidence to their antiquity and character.</p> + + <p>This art, that necessity created, comfort nourished, and + luxury matured, has been a process of slow development. To the + mind of some dark tribeswoman of the desert contemplating the + rushes gathered from a sluggish stream and strewn upon the floor + of her master’s hut several thousand years ago, may have + been suggested the first idea of a mat. Indeed, from earliest + times mats of reeds, straw, bamboo, or other pliable material + have been constantly made. At first they were doubtless without + ornament; later they were coloured with dyes obtained from roots + and herbs to increase their attractiveness; finally designs + symbolic of nature or the deity were embroidered on them. As + wealth and luxury increased the ornamentation became more + elaborate, until during the rule of the Caliphs the mats rivalled + in beauty the carpets for which, during the summer months, they + were substituted. “On these mats,” wrote the eminent + authority, Dr. F. R. Martin, “the artist found free scope + for displaying as much artistic skill as on the real carpets, and + gold threads were intertwined to make them as precious as the + most expensive silk and gold carpets.” Long, however, + before they had reached such a high state of perfection, they + would have suggested the idea of making warmer and more durable + floor coverings. The first of these was a simple web of warp and + woof; later they assumed a character not dissimilar to the kilims + now made in the lands of their origin. With further advance, more + elaborate carpets and tapestries were made; but it was not until + the art had been developing for a great many centuries, that + there appeared those most perfect products of knotted pile that + were similar in kind but superior in quality to the modern + pieces.</p> + + <p>Slow as was this development, as early as the Christian era, + the work of the most skilled weavers of the Orient deserved to be + classed as a fine art. During the time of the Sassanian kingdom + (extending from about 226 <span class="smcap">a. d.</span> to 632 + <span class="smcap">a. d.</span>) carpets of elaborate design and + finish were produced in Mesopotamia and Syria. Most of them were + of the wool of sheep or goats; and in them were represented + designs of trees, birds, animals, and other figures. Other pieces + were made of silk richly embroidered with silver and gold. + Moreover, authentic evidence from the VI Century <span class= + "smcap">a. d.</span> not only gives us positive knowledge of the + marvellous workmanship of that time,<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span> but + enables us to conjecture through what a long period of + progression the artisans had been labouring to arrive at such + results. Dr. Karabacek, director of the Imperial Library of + Vienna, in his monograph “Die Persische Nadelmalerei + Susandschird,” gave the following description of the + “Spring of Chosroes” carpet:</p> + + <p>“When Ctesiphon, the residence of the Sassanides, fell + into the hands of the Arabs in the year 637 <span class= + "smcap">a. d.</span>, they found in the royal palace, the ruins + of which still remain, a colossal carpet of 1051 square + metres,<a name="FNanchor_11" id="FNanchor_11"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">11</a> which was originally made + for Chosroes I. His successor, Anoschar (531-579 <span class= + "smcap">a. d.</span>), used it also, but only during the stormy + weather, when remaining in the gardens was impracticable. The + festivities were then transferred to the palace, where a garden + with the beauty of springtime was represented by the pattern of + the carpet. This was the Winter Carpet that was called in Persia + the Spring of Chosroes. Its material, which was marvellous and + costly, consisted of silk, gold, silver, and precious stones. On + it was represented a beautiful pleasure ground with brooks and + interlacing paths, with trees and flowers of springtime. On the + wide borders surrounding it were represented flower-beds in which + precious stones coloured blue, red, yellow, white, and green + denoted the beauty of the flowers. Gold imitated the + yellow-coloured soil and defined the borders of the brooks, where + the water was represented by crystals. Gravel paths were + indicated by stones of the size of pearls. The stalks of trees + were of gold and silver, the leaves and flowers of silk, the + fruits of many-coloured stones.”</p> + + <p>As the value of this carpet was estimated at about three + quarters of a million dollars, it was regarded as too precious to + fall to the lot of a single captor, and was accordingly divided + into segments to be distributed as booty among the soldiers. Even + if during this period there was no other fabric so valuable and + elaborate, it represented the importance of the textile art + during the dynasty of the Sassanides.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p15" id="p15"></a><img src="images/plate15.jpg" + width="550" height="738" alt="Plate 15. Persian Animal Carpet in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 15. Persian Animal + Carpet in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York</span></p> + </div> + + <p>During the Caliphate (632 to 1258 <span class="smcap">a. + d.</span>) the Moslem rulers, devoted to luxury, preserved the + art treasures of their conquered subjects and encouraged them to + renewed efforts. This is particularly true of the Caliphs and + sultans of Syria and Egypt. A carpet that adorned the banquet + hall of the Caliph Hisham of Egypt, who died 743 A. D., was of + silk interwoven with strands of gold, and had a length of three + hundred feet and a breadth of one hundred and <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span>fifty feet. + All of the rooms of the Egyptian palaces, occupied by the + sultans, contained carpets of silk and satin; and the mosques of + Syria were similarly furnished. In the year 1067 <span class= + "smcap">a. d.</span> one of the Caliphs was forced to sell his + accumulated treasures, which consisted, besides jewels and works + of art, of about four thousand bales of carpets. Dr. Martin + states that a single one of these bales contained several hundred + perfect carpets, which were woven in silk and gold, and that some + of them contained portraits of entire royal families. One of + them, valued at about $300,000, was made for the Caliph el Mirz + li alla in the year 964 <span class="smcap">a. d.</span> It was + of blue silk, on which were represented the heavens and the + earth, seas and rivers, as well as the holy cities Mecca and + Medina. Such was the character of some of the carpets woven + during the days of the Caliphs.</p> + + <p>As the imperfect records which have been left us indicate that + the finest carpet collections of this period were in the mosques + and palaces of Syria and Egypt, it has been assumed that they + were woven by the native artisans. To some extent this is + doubtless true, as rug weaving was one of the oldest industries + of these countries. But it is more probable that most of them + were made elsewhere and were acquired as presents or by purchase. + Some were made in Armenia, Assyria, and Turkestan; but the + largest number, as well as the most costly and elaborate, + doubtless came from the same hills and towns of Persia where many + of the finest pieces are woven to-day. In several of these towns + as many as three or four hundred looms were constantly at work; + and since the carpets consisted of warp and weft only, it is + probable that they were produced far more rapidly than modern + rugs in which knots are tied to the warp. But if they lacked the + richness of deep, heavy pile, they were elaborately woven with + threads of gold and silver, and were often embellished with + precious stones.</p> + + <h4>ANTIQUE PERSIAN CARPETS</h4> + + <p>To the tendency of overestimating the age of art objects to + which antiquity adds value, there is no exception in the case of + Oriental rugs, yet there is good reason to believe that a few + pieces still exist that were woven in Persia as early as the XIII + or XIV Century. Indeed, we cannot positively affirm that there + may not be religiously preserved some relic of the Seljukian + dynasty, which ruled in Persia till about 1150 <span class= + "smcap">a. d.</span>, for we have little knowledge <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span> of what + some of the old mosques which no Christian has ever entered may + contain; but it is more probable that the oldest remaining pieces + belong to the Mongolian period, which began with the invasion of + the armies of Genghis Khan in the first half of the XIII Century. + This conclusion is based partly on the facts that their archaic + patterns indicate a very remote period, and that they suggest + early Mongolian influences. Moreover, as the age of rugs of a + somewhat later period can be determined by the evidence of + similarity of their designs with those of early tiles, metal + work, pottery, and miniatures, of established age, it is possible + to infer the relative age of these older pieces by comparison of + patterns showing a progressive development.</p> + + <p>One of the oldest Persian pieces now existing, the property of + C. F. Williams, Esq., of Norristown, Pa., is in the Metropolitan + Museum of Art of New York (Plate <a href="#p11">11</a>, opp. Page + 64). It is also one of the most interesting. In it are found + Persian, Armenian, Caucasian, and Mongolian characteristics, + which serve to determine the district where it was woven and to + suggest its age. Its Sehna knot, cotton warp and weft, as well as + much of the drawing, are typical of Persia. The tri-cleft leaf + and stem seen in the two lower corners, in the main stripe, and + in parts of the field are found in almost all Armenian rugs. The + reciprocal sawtooth of the outer border stripe and the geometric + inner stripe are Caucasian features. Certain colour tones, the + octagonal discs at each end of the large central palmettes, and + more particularly the tendrils or scrolls of the main stripe of + the border which resemble the foliate forms as they appear in + Chinese rugs and porcelains of the late Ming and Kang-hi periods, + are Mongolian. The combination of these characteristics indicates + that it was made in the most northwesterly part of Persia where + in 1258 Hulaku Khan established his capital, and his successors + ruled for over a century. Here undoubtedly the craft of weaving + flourished for a long period, and exercised an important + influence on the surrounding countries. To judge by the colours; + the formal character of the border; the rigid lines of the large + palmette motives of the field, which are not seen in carpets of a + much later period; and the stiff, archaic character of the bushes + with foliage and blossoms arranged mechanically on the thick + trunks, it is not unreasonable to place this piece as early as + the middle of the XIV Century, during the interval between the + overthrow of the Seljukian dynasty by the followers of Genghis + Khan and the later invasion of the <span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span>Timurids. In fact, it may be + even older, since those graceful lines that belong to the highest + art of a subsequent period are entirely lacking. But in the + drawing is strength, and in the colours, a few of which have + faded, are beauty and harmony.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p16" id="p16"></a><img src="images/plate16.jpg" + width="550" height="797" alt="Plate 16. Persian Animal Carpet in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 16. Persian Animal + Carpet in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York</span></p> + </div> + + <p>Such old pieces are very rare, yet a similar one, belonging to + Prof. W. Bode, is in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum at Berlin. Its + drawing is more regular, and the trunks of the trees are broader. + These two carpets represent the art of weaving at a very early + period.</p> + + <p>Of equal interest and higher artistic merit is another carpet + (Plate <a href="#p12">12</a>, opp. Page 68), belonging to C. F. + Williams, Esq., and at present in the Metropolitan Museum of Art + but formerly in the possession of J. Böhler of Munich. It + has a length of nearly seventeen feet and a breadth of nearly + twelve. There are about three hundred knots to the square inch. + Though much of that stiffness of drawing found in the earlier + pieces remains, the more pliant branches and less regular setting + of the flowers indicate a later date; so that it is not + improbable that it was woven about the first of the XV Century. + Dr. Martin regards this piece as one of the oldest of the Timurid + period if not from the Mongolian, and says that the trees + resemble those in a Mongolian miniature in the Musée des + Arts Decoratifs in Paris, and in a manuscript from the year 1396. + At any rate, they display more formal drawing than the trees of + more recent carpets. The character of pattern and the colouring + suggest that it was woven in Northwestern Persia.</p> + + <p>The field is skilfully divided into three subfields by beds of + flowers, from which slender trees rise and partly screen from + view more stately cypresses. The subdivisions are further + indicated by pairs of palmettes, of which the upper pair mark a + transition between the lower pair and those more elegant forms + commonly seen two centuries later. There are likewise palmettes + of simpler form in the two guard stripes. But the principal + ornamentation of the rich border is the interlacing arabesques of + three different colours, which are decorated with a slender + wreath of leaf and flower. There is, moreover, a particular + interest in the grouping of the arabesques since they form a + design which may be the prototype of the so-called turtle borders + so frequently seen in Feraghans and Gorevans, and is itself + derived, according to Dr. Martin, from a still older form in + which branching arabesques extend across the whole field. It may + not be unreasonable to assume that this pattern has<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span> been + handed down from that earlier period when a Saracenic influence + was felt in all the weavings.</p> + + <p>If the chief interest in this piece is centred in the pattern, + its greatest charm lies in its soft, dainty colours, some of + which are exquisitely beautiful. They are expressed in delicate + shades of orange, ivory, light green, sable brown, and light and + dark blue on a background of pinkish red. This pattern and + colouring suggest an Eastern wood when the first frost of autumn + has left its touch on the leaves. The border contains the same + colours as the field but is strong and effective, since the soft + tones are in the narrow guard stripes and the deeper colours + appear in the broad central stripe in larger masses and in + immediate contact.</p> + + <p>If this carpet was woven about 1400 <span class="smcap">a. + d.</span>, as seems not improbable, the drawing of the trees, + palmettes, and border designs becomes by comparison an important + guide for determining the age of other antique Persian + carpets.</p> + + <p>Very different, indeed, from the preceding is a woollen piece + (Plate <a href="#p13">13</a>, opp. Page 70), sixteen feet four + inches long by eleven feet two inches wide, that was formerly in + the collection of Mr. Vincent Robinson of London, but is now in + the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, which bought it at the + Yerkes sale in 1910, for $19,600. It has about six hundred knots + to the square inch, and is woven with warp of cotton and silk, + and with weft of silk. The pile is velvety, and the texture, + drawing, and colouring display a high grade of artistic + craftsmanship. Another of similar character is represented in the + Vienna Publication of Oriental Carpets of 1889, at which time it + belonged to the Countess Clotilde Clam-Gallas of Vienna; and a + third belongs to the Palais de Commerce at Lyons.</p> + + <p>In no other rugs from Iran is the effect of Mongolian + tradition on design more noticeable; but that this was due to the + Timurid invasion at the end of the XIV Century is doubtful, and + it is not improbable that more immediate intervention with China + determined the motives. Nor is the Saracenic influence obscured, + since in every part of the field and border is seen the perfect + rhythm of graceful arabesques. Such carpets represent, in fact, + the transition from those earlier pieces to the higher products + of Persian looms.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p17" id="p17"></a><img src="images/plate17.jpg" + width="500" height="833" alt="Plate 17. So-called Polish Or Polonaise Carpet in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 17. So-called + Polish Or Polonaise Carpet in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, + New York</span></p> + </div> + + <p>One of the simplest ways of studying the pattern is to regard + it as consisting of a number of units formed by a large rounded + octagon encircled by eight heart-shaped escutcheons, and with a + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id= + "Page_81">81</a></span>smaller rounded octagon at the centre of + the diagonal lines connecting them. On the large octagons, which + are of dark blue crossed by narrow bands of sable brown, is + represented the fight of dragon and phœnix so common in the + ornamentation of the Ming dynasty; and in the smaller octagons, + which are plum colour, are four running lions in red, blue, and + green. The eight escutcheons alternate in crimson and blue, and + have arabesques and Chinese ducks. The large pentagonal-shaped + areas of the ivory field are covered with a most symmetrically + drawn tracery of tendrils and flowers in red, yellow, and blue; + and in the smaller hexagonal-shaped areas are cloud bands of + similar colours.</p> + + <p>The border shows a marked advance over that of the preceding + piece. The main stripe, which follows a pattern that with slight + modification is adopted in many of the carpets of this and a + later period, consists of a chain-like series of octagons similar + to those of the field, separating elongated panels with crenated + edges. The latter are adorned with cloud bands in yellow + interlaced with delicate tendrils supporting flowers in red, + yellow, green, and white, on a dark blue field; and surrounding + them on a red ground is also a delicate tracery of leaves and + flowers. The outer and inner stripes have arabesques and tendrils + bearing flowers in red, green, and blue on a ground of golden + yellow. All the colours of both field and border have mellowed + into rich, beautiful hues in which is the most perfect + harmony.</p> + + <p>The intricacy and character of design, the delicacy of + drawing, and the tones of colour indicate that this piece was + woven near the beginning of the Safavid dynasty, in the early + part of the XVI Century. Mr. Robinson ascribes its origin to + Bagdad; but it seems far more probable that it came from the + northwestern part of Persia, which was an important centre of + textile art only a few years later. This piece and the two others + described on the pages just preceding are among the most + interesting carpets now existing; for they represent not only a + very high standard of the textile craft, but also most important + steps in its development.</p> + + <p>There is no evidence to indicate how early animal carpets were + woven in Persia. Dr. Martin found a piece with archaic drawing, + that from its resemblance to an old tile of established age, he + placed at about the year 1300 <span class="smcap">a. d.</span>; + but it was about the beginning of the XVI Century that were woven + the first of those masterly pieces which displayed animals + surrounded by a maze of floral life. Lions,<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span> leopards, + boars, deer, and hounds were the principal motives. To each of + these was ascribed some principle or quality, so that it has been + assumed that the aim of the weaver was to give expression to some + theme of interest.</p> + + <p>A number of these carpets represent the chase and are called + “Hunting Carpets.” The best of them are regarded by + Dr. Martin as belonging to the latter half of the XVI Century for + reasons indicated in the following extract from his work: + “The manuscript of Nizami, one of the pearls of the British + Museum, which was executed in Tabriz 1539-1542 for the Shah + Tamasp, has the most wonderful designs on the margins. Although + the manuscripts and the miniatures are signed by Persia’s + most renowned masters, there is nothing to give a hint as to who + has drawn these magnificent borders. This manuscript, which at + the time it was written, was considered one of the most + remarkable ‘the like of which the eye of time never + beheld,’ plainly proves that the large carpets with hunting + scenes must be relegated to a later time or to about 1560-1570. + Both animals and trees are of a far more stately and earlier + character in the manuscript.”</p> + + <p>One of the best of these pieces with animals (Plate <a href= + "#p14">14</a>, opp. Page 72) is in the Metropolitan Museum of + Art, in New York, by which it was purchased at the Yerkes sale in + 1910, for $15,200. It has a length of ten feet eleven inches with + a breadth of five feet ten inches, and an average of four hundred + and eighty knots to the square inch. Both warp and weft are of + silk, and the pile is of wool. As it was confidently believed by + Mr. Edward Stebbing<a name="FNanchor_12" id= + "FNanchor_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">12</a> + that this piece belonged for a long time to the Mosque of + Ardebil, where Ismael had established his capital, and from which + Tamasp subsequently moved; it is not improbable that it belongs + to the early period, between the closing years of Ismael’s + reign and the first part of the reign of Tamasp.<a name= + "FNanchor_13" id="FNanchor_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13" class= + "fnanchor">13</a> Nor is there anything in the technique of + colour or design to convey a different impression, as the general + colour of the field is a claret red, and that of the border a + dark blue characteristic of this period.</p> + + <p>The most noticeable feature of the carpet is the display of + animal life amid the carefully balanced arrangement of floral + figures. Four-fifths of the field can be divided into two perfect + squares with sides equal to the breadth of the field; and the + remainder will be equiva<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" + id="Page_83">83</a></span>lent to one-half of one of these + squares. Each quarter of a square contains animals, probably + intended to represent a lion, leopard, and boar, that are + perfectly balanced with those of the adjacent and alternating + quarters. Moreover, the same balance exists in the case of the + smaller animals and floral forms. Thus it appears that each + square forms a perfect unit in which is shown a remarkable + relation between all parts. Such mathematical exactness indicates + the highest artistic skill. The repetition of pattern also + accentuates the predominant idea of animal life, which is + rendered even more noticeable by the strong golden yellow of some + of the group. Whoever has studied the early Iranian monuments + remembers with how slight variation some of the drawing has been + copied during subsequent generations; so that it is not + surprising that Mr. Stebbing should call attention to the + resemblance of some of the animals in this carpet to those of the + rock-carved sculptures of Tak-i-Bostan near Kermanshah.</p> + + <p>As is the case with most modern Persian rugs, there is no + correspondence between the size of the animals and the flowers. + Nevertheless the lack of harmony is not felt, as the animal and + the floral life are intended to be regarded separately. The + principal flowers of the field are peonies, some of which are + woven with silver threads. They also appear in the border + arranged with perfect precision within the folds of symmetrical + cloud-bands and interlacing arabesques. The latter form a + well-executed repetitive figure that suggests an origin for the + reciprocal trefoil or lily pattern, as it is sometimes called, + which received its highest development in the silk rugs of a + later century.</p> + + <p>On the whole, this piece is not far short of the highest + sumptuary standard of a subsequent period, and is an excellent + example of the artistic development of the earliest part of the + Safavid dynasty. In few other carpets is combined such intricacy + of design with richness and simplicity of colour.</p> + + <p>Of still greater interest than the last is the Arbedil Carpet, + now in the South Kensington Museum. It has a length of + thirty-four and a half feet with a breadth of seventeen and a + half; the texture shows about three hundred and twenty-five knots + to the square inch; and the pile is of wool tied to warp and weft + of silk. It has been very carefully studied by Mr. Edward + Stebbing, from whose description the following extracts are + taken:</p> + + <p>“The body ground is blue, covered with a floral tracery + of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id= + "Page_84">84</a></span> exquisite delicacy and freedom of + treatment. A central medallion of pale yellow terminates on its + outer edge in sixteen minaret-shaped points from which spring + sixteen cartouches; four green, four red, and eight light cream; + and from two of these again, as it were, suspended and hanging in + the direction of the respective ends of the carpet, two of the + sacred lamps of the mosque.</p> + + <p>“Quarter sections of the central medallion also on a + pale yellow ground, relieved by tracery, form the angles; while a + broader border completes the glorious design, a border of the + alternate elongated and rounded cartouches filled with floral and + other tracery, the former on a base of red, the latter on a rich + brown ground flanked on the inner side by a broad band of cream + seven inches wide, relieved by a variation of a so-called cloud + pattern, and a narrower band of crimson near the body of the + carpet; and on the outer side by a single broad band, also seven + inches wide, of tawny hue, shading from dark to light, and + relieved by a bold design in blue.”</p> + + <p>But however exquisite the tracery, however delicate the + colouring, the greatest interest centres in the fact that in a + panel adjoining the border of the upper end is the following + inscription:</p> + + <div class="poem2"> + <div class="stanza2"> + <span class="i02">“I have no refuge in the world other + than thy threshold;</span> <span class="i02">“My head + has no protection other than thy porchway;</span> + <span class="i02">“The work of the slave of the holy + place, Maksoud of Kashan, in the year 946.”</span> + </div> + </div> + + <p>Here is revealed the age of the carpet, which not only + determines the character of workmanship of a particular period, + but affords a standard for determining by comparison the relative + age of other pieces. The year 946 corresponds with our year 1540 + A. D., and the position of the date indicates that it was + inscribed a little before the completion of the fabric. + Accordingly, it would not be unreasonable to assume that the + carpet was begun during the closing years of the reign of Ismael, + who died at Ardebil in 1524, and that it was finished during the + reign of Tamasp I.</p> + + <p>To infer that at this period were many such carpets would be a + mistake; since this was doubtless woven by the order of the + court, and by one of the most skilled artisans, who may have made + it the crowning labour of his life. It indicates the highest + technique acquired in the early part of the Safavid dynasty.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p18" id="p18"></a><img src="images/plate18.jpg" + width="550" height="768" alt="Plate 18. So-called Ispahan in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 18. So-called + Ispahan in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York</span></p> + </div> + + <p>Besides the mosque carpets, other pieces such as small prayer + rugs were used for devotional purposes. When the first of them + were made is unknown, though they existed in the days of the + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id= + "Page_85">85</a></span>Caliphs, when the words of the Prophet + were still fresh in the memories of his followers; and they were + also used at an early period among Turkomans. The oldest that + remain belong to the early part of the Safavid rule. One that was + formerly in the collection of Stefano Bardini of Florence and is + now owned by Mr. Benjamin Altman, appeared at the exhibit of the + Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1910. It is a woollen piece with a + length of nearly five and a half feet and a breadth of three and + a quarter. In the central field is a prayer arch resembling some + of a later period, with outlines gracefully recurving near the + base and broken on each side by a pentagonal-shaped flower. All + parts of each of the two trees that rise from the bottom of the + field are reversely duplicated in the other. Some of the + stiffness of drawing of the earlier carpets remains, but the + blossoms are clustered more naturally and the whole treatment is + more skilful. The effect of the scroll-work on the red ground of + the spandrel; of the suspended lamp with its bright flowers of + red, yellow, and pink; and of the blossoming trees beneath, is + most pleasing; but the chief interest centres in the outer border + stripe, where appear features that are more interesting than + harmonious, features derived from Persia, Assyria, Mongolia, and + Arabia. The rounded octagons have Cufic lettering that recalls + early Mesopotamian civilisation; the cartouches at the bottom + with their cloud-bands suggest Mongolian conquests; and the upper + cartouches contain the following verses from the Koran:</p> + + <div class="poem2"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span class="i02">“Iman the victorious and expected + Mahdi, the Lord of the Age.</span> <span class="i02">Zalsi + and Hason; and bless the standing proof.</span> <span class= + "i02">Oh Lord bless Mohammed the chosen one. Ali, the elect, + Fatimeh the Immaculate.</span> <span class="i02">Jofer Sadik, + Mooza Kazin, Ali Riza Mohammed Taki, Mohammed Nakee, + Ali.</span> <span class="i02">The two branches Harson and + Hussein Bless Ali Zaimulubbad Mohammed + Bak’r.”</span> + </div> + </div> + + <p>These verses, the archaic lamp, and the green of the field, a + colour sacred to Moslems, all indicate the religious character of + the carpet. Similar features also appear in another antique piece + of about the same age, but the Cufic characters of the border are + within squares surrounded by circles that resemble Chinese seals + as they appear in early manuscripts. Both of these pieces were + probably woven in Northwestern Persia about the middle of the XVI + Century. Few such prayer carpets remain, though without doubt + they were used<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id= + "Page_86">86</a></span> by devotees during succeeding periods, + and it is not unusual to see, even in modern Kermanshahs, prayer + arches of the same pattern.</p> + + <p>Of totally different character but of about the same age is an + animal rug (Plate <a href="#p15">15</a>, opp. Page 76) that + belongs to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It was bought at the + Yerkes sale in 1910, for $5,600, and had previously belonged to + the collection of Vincent Robinson of London. It has a length of + about seven and a half feet with a breadth of about five and a + half, and consists of woollen pile tied to cotton warp crossed by + woollen weft. The weave is not unlike what is seen in many modern + Sarouks; as the knot is Sehna, one thread of warp is doubled + under the other in each knot, and the coloured thread of weft, + which crosses twice, is partly exposed at the back.</p> + + <p>Like so many of the old Persian pieces, the ground colour of + red appears in the main field, and is strongly contrasted with + the dark blue of the medallion and dark green of the corners. Red + and green also appear in the border contrasted with yellow. This + association of colour is not usual, nor is the repetitive pattern + of the border with its sharp cusps at many of the angles, nor the + trapeziform corners, and the nearly rectangular medallion. + Likewise the mechanically formed bushes with their quince-like + fruit, on which sit birds of disproportionate size, show a + departure from the accepted traditions of the Safavid schools. + Yet these very features awaken new interest, and suggest that it + was probably woven in some part of Northern or Western Persia + where the influence of the court was not paramount. Nevertheless + the accurate balance of the different halves, and the drawing of + the palmettes show that it is distinctly Iranian.</p> + + <p>If this last piece be compared with the animal rug (Plate + <a href="#p16">16</a>, opp. Page 78) that was presented to the + Metropolitan Museum of Art by Mr. Cochran, the wide contrast will + at once be noticeable. As the latter has a length of about eight + and two-thirds feet with a breadth of nearly six, the difference + in size and proportions is not great; nor is there any particular + difference in the number of animals; nor in the balanced relation + of upper and lower, right and left halves; nor in the red ground + of the main fields. But here the resemblance ends. Whereas in the + former the animals are one of the most prominent features, in the + latter they are subordinate to the rich assemblage of floral and + palmette forms, that occupy not only the field but also the + border. It is, indeed, a piece that marks <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span>a + transition from the animal rugs, so prominent in the early part + of the XVI Century but rarely woven later than its end, to the + more elegant pieces, so characteristic of the court of Ispahan, + which belong almost exclusively to the XVII Century. It + accordingly seems not without reason to assign it to about the + year 1600.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> + <a name="p19" id="p19"></a><img src="images/plate19.jpg" + width="400" height="788" alt="Plate 19. Armenian Carpet in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 19. Armenian Carpet + in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York</span></p> + </div> + + <p>Not only do these different elements that denote a transition + add interest; they also give a most pleasing effect. The main + border stripe of a rich green with its well-drawn palmettes + surrounded by vines and foliated stalks, on which rest naturally + drawn birds of handsome plumage, and the chaste floral designs of + the narrow guards, serve as a tasteful frame to the central + picture. Here again the outer field, with artistic effect, brings + into greater relief the central medallion, where on a ground of + greenish yellow, standing and seated amidst blossoming shrubs in + red, blue, and green, as in a garden, are richly dressed human + forms. Apart from these, yet perhaps intended in some way to + reflect the tenor of their thoughts, are four ducks, emblematic + of matrimonial happiness. Whatever may have been the original + shade of the central medallion, it is now slightly out of harmony + with the surrounding colours, and is perhaps the only jarring + note in this exquisite piece of workmanship. Not improbably the + present shade is due to the unfriendly hand of time, since the + artistic genius of the weaver is fully displayed in the masterly + arrangement of other colours and in the delicacy and precision of + the drawing of the perfectly balanced floral and animal + forms.</p> + + <p>The difficulty of determining the locality where the antique + carpets were woven is often greater than in the case of modern + rugs, but this piece was probably one of the last of those fine + old animal carpets that were woven in the northwestern part of + Persia.</p> + + <p>Though modern silk rugs fail to awaken the interest of woollen + pieces, the old silk carpets were formerly regarded as the + choicest products of weaving. As a rule, they were the work of + the most skilled artists employed in the imperial factory under + the direction and patronage of the court. It was during the reign + of Shah Tamasp that they received special attention. Following a + custom that had been in vogue of sending carpets as presents to + foreign courts, in 1566 he sent to the Sultan of Constantinople a + number of pieces on which flowers, birds, and animals were woven + with silk on threads of gold. But it was doubtless after his + successor Shah Abbas I had begun to embellish his capital at + Ispahan, that were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id= + "Page_88">88</a></span> made the famous “Polish” silk + or “Polonaise” carpets about which there has been so + much controversy. It is true that Mr. Robinson in his + “Eastern Carpets” claims that they were woven in + Poland by Persians taken there by a Pole named Mersherski; but it + seems far more probable that they were woven under the + supervision of the Persian court and were either sent as presents + to European sovereigns or purchased by wealthy connoisseurs of + art.</p> + + <p>How many of these pieces may be hidden away in the palaces and + mosques of the far East it is impossible to determine, but two + hundred would be a very conservative estimate of the number owned + by the different courts of Europe and by private collectors of + that country and America. One of them was presented to the Danish + court as late as 1639; and it is believed that all that reached + Europe arrived there between the years 1604 and 1650.</p> + + <p>Their beauty is exquisite and chaste. To the threads of silver + and gold is tied silken nap that often displays a striking + brilliancy. Unlike the earlier Persian carpets which had more + subdued hues, these pieces have light tones such as salmon, rose, + and green, which are arranged with perfect harmony. Moreover, + there is an elegance of design representing the highest types of + Iranian, Saracenic, and Mongolian influences combined. Here in + perfection are dainty floral forms, the rhythmic tracery of + arabesques, and delicate cloud-bands. In them the textile art of + the East reached a perfection that probably has never been + surpassed.</p> + + <p>One of these (Plate <a href="#p17">17</a>, opp. Page 80), that + has a length of about nine feet and a breadth of five and a half, + belongs to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. In many respects it is + typical of its class, though threads of yellow and grey are + substituted for the usual gold and silver of the foundation. On a + field of rose are outlined palmettes, leaves, and scrolls in + green, blue, brown, and salmon, that harmonise with the light + blue of the border. All of these colours blend with pleasing + effect and soften lines that in a print seem harsh. Furthermore + with all its complexity of detail, every part of the pattern is + arranged with mathematical precision. That a carpet with such + perfect balance of every part, such intricacy of elaborate + detail, such graceful curves of the heavy foliate leaves should + be woven without copying some older pattern or a carefully + executed drawing, seems improbable.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p20" id="p20"></a><img src="images/plate20.jpg" + width="500" height="836" alt="Plate 20. Asia Minor Dragon and Phoenix Carpet in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 20. Asia Minor + Dragon and Phoenix Carpet in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, + Berlin</span></p> + </div> + + <p>In this piece and in others of the same class can be + recognised what is probably the prototype of more + conventionalised and less <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" + id="Page_89">89</a></span>elegant designs so often seen in modern + Persian pieces, since the palmette with encircling lancet leaves + in its borders is most suggestive of the borders of modern + Herats; and the rhomboidal-shaped figure connecting four + palmettes at the centre is equally suggestive of the Herati or + fish pattern seen in the field of innumerable Feraghans.</p> + + <p>It was also during the reign of Shah Abbas<a name= + "FNanchor_14" id="FNanchor_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14" class= + "fnanchor">14</a> and his immediate successors that most of the + so-called Ispahans were woven, though some of them appeared as + early as the XV and some as late as the close of the XVII + Century. As in the case with the Polish silk carpets, within + recent years some difference of opinion has existed regarding the + place of their manufacture. After careful research, Dr. Martin + believes that they came from Herat and with this idea some other + authorities concur. It is true that Herat belonged to the Persian + Empire during the reign of the Safavid dynasty, and that even in + the days of Shah Ismael magnificent carpets were woven there. It + is also true that during the time of Tamasp and Abbas it was as + important an art centre as Tabriz, and that the weaving of + carpets was a leading industry there. Furthermore, there has not + been found the same evidence to show that Ispahan was at this + period an equally important centre of weaving. On the other hand, + it is well known that the splendid industrial and art products of + this period were largely due to the direct encouragement and + favour of the court, and that the court was for most of the time + at Ispahan. It is also known that skilled artisans were + repeatedly removed from one district to another at the command of + a sovereign, so that carpets of similar character might be woven + contemporaneously in remote parts of Persia. It accordingly seems + not improbable that the original type of these carpets was + evolved at Herat and that many of them at least were made at + Herat, but that others were also made at Ispahan. At any rate + they were made to a great extent under the influence that + emanated from Ispahan.</p> + + <p>Almost without exception they are pieces of large size and + oblong shape. The ground colour of the field is usually red, the + border blue; but blue is occasionally used in the field and green + in the border. Their distinguishing feature is the use of the + palmette, that was probably derived from the lotus, so frequently + associated with the Buddhist cult of India and China. In the + field it generally <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id= + "Page_90">90</a></span> occurs in pairs that slightly vary in + size. Of almost equal importance are the Chinese cloud-bands and + the scrolls or arabesques. These three designs were constant + motives in almost all the Ispahans; but they were subject to + modifications in size and shape, which appearing in chronological + order furnish some guide to the time when the carpets were woven. + For instance, the palmettes were at first small and distributed + plentifully over the field; later they became larger, until in a + few instances they were a yard in diameter. Dr. Martin says that + in the first part of the XVII Century the palmettes began to be + very large and the richness of the interior design to disappear; + until at the end of the XVII Century only a few were sufficient + to cover the ground that one hundred years before was almost + hidden by innumerable designs of small palmettes, cloud-bands, + and scroll work. He also states that towards the middle of the + XVII Century the borders began to lose their importance and that + the palmettes were surrounded by two long, narrow leaves.</p> + + <p>Though most of the antique Iranian carpets that remain were + woven in the Northern provinces, it is well known that even from + earliest times carpets of elaborate design and skilful technique + were also woven in Southern Persia. In fact, many of the + wonderful pieces that adorned the palaces and mosques of the + Fatimid Caliphs of Egypt came from the districts of Fars and + Kirman. The latter, notwithstanding invasions of Seljukian Turks, + Mongolians, and Afghans, has continued almost uninterruptedly as + a centre of the textile industry; yet comparatively few pieces + exist that were woven there three or four centuries ago. Their + colour scheme harmonises more with that of the carpets of Western + Persia than with the more sombre tones of the old animal carpets + and Ispahans, or with the brighter hues of the so-called Polish. + Their patterns also show a distinction from those of northern + textile fabrics. The fields are often artificially divided, by + foliate stalks or lance-shaped leaves with serrated edges, into + rhomboidal figures that contain mechanically drawn shrubs, + palmettes, or flowers. In the main stripe of the border are + generally represented interlacing arabesques adorned with + flowering vines or arabesques and a sub-pattern of vines. + Mongolian designs are rarely seen in any of these pieces, which + probably represent more closely than any other Persian carpets + native art unaffected by foreign influences. Almost all of them + are now owned in Europe.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id= + "Page_91">91</a></span>Of the early rugs, those woven in Armenia + are far less known than those from Persia. Nevertheless, it may + reasonably be assumed that the high culture that was manifested + in Bagdad and Ctesiphon during the sway of the Caliphs was felt + among the mountainous districts to the north; and that the + Seljukian rulers, who left such artistic monuments in the old + Armenian capitals, appreciated and encouraged the manufacture of + fine woollen fabrics. In fact, Marco Polo, who travelled through + that region during the latter part of the XIII Century, referred + to them as being remarkably handsome.</p> + + <p>Probably the oldest remaining pieces are the so-called Dragon + carpets, which, it is believed, were produced from the XIV to the + XVII Century and possibly even earlier. Not infrequently the + length is at least twice the breadth; the very narrow border + occasionally consists of only a single stripe; and the field is + occupied by a trellis-like pattern of narrow, conventionalised + leaves, within which are designs containing archaic flowers and + dragons. The ground colour of the field is generally some shade + of red, that of the border white, and the leaves are yellow, + blue, or green. In the borders of many of them appear an S motive + from which undoubtedly was derived the design so frequently seen + in panels of more recent Asia Minor prayer rugs.</p> + + <p>In the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York is a XV Century + carpet (Plate <a href="#p19">19</a>, opp. Page 86), which, though + widely differing from these pieces in general pattern, so closely + resembles them in the essential characteristics of weave and + colour that it is unquestionably of the same class. The field is + occupied by concentric diamonds with stepped sides. The + encircling bands, that are mostly red, yellow, and violet, and + the corners, that are white, contain numerous archaic forms, + including palmettes, trees, birds, and animals. There are also + numerous small designs of the tri-cleft leaf so common to the + Circassian and Soumak rugs; and the ray-like edges of the central + lozenge, as well as the four palmettes that rest upon it, suggest + the origin of the effulgent stars of old Daghestans and + Kabistans. An effort has been made to balance similar designs in + corresponding parts of the field, though its centre is at one + side of the geometric centre of the diamonds. The palmettes show + distinctly a strong Persian influence and the animal forms + likewise show that it was not woven by a sectarian Sunnite of + Western Asia Minor.</p> + + <p>Part of a very unusual carpet (Plate <a href="#p20">20</a>, + opp. Page 88), from a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id= + "Page_92">92</a></span> district in Eastern Asia Minor, is in the + Kaiser Friedrich Museum at Berlin. Its principal interest lies in + the fact that it is very old and that its approximate age has + been determined. In the hospital at Siena, Italy, a similar rug + is represented in a fresco called the “Wedding of the + Foundling,” painted by Domenico di Bartolo about the year + 1440, so that it is reasonable to conclude that this particular + piece was woven not much later. In fact, its character would + indicate that it or some other from which it has been copied was + much older. Each of the nearly square compartments contain + octagons, within which on a yellow field are represented the + mythical fight of the dragon and phœnix that was adopted as + the Ming coat of arms. It is interesting to note that the chain + pattern of the brownish-black main border stripe is not unlike + what is seen in modern pieces, but the running latch hooks of the + corners and the small S designs are unusually stiff. This + disposition to formal drawing, which is conspicuous in all parts + of the rug, shows an archaic style noticeable only in the very + earliest carpets.</p> + + <p>In the celebrated painting of Georg Gyze (Plate <a href= + "#p21">21</a>, opp. Page 92) which hangs in the Berlin Gallery, + is represented a rug of a class so frequently seen in the + paintings of Hans Holbein that they are known as “Holbein + rugs.” Their marked dissimilarity to those previously + described indicates that they were woven under different + circumstances if not in different regions. Neither in the fields + nor borders is any trace of Mongolian or Persian influences; and + the absence of all floral, leaf, and animal forms so usual in + most antique carpets is noticeable. Indeed, the fact that animal + forms rarely appear in the art of the Sunni Mohammedans aids in + determining the place of their origin. They came from Asia Minor + or Western Armenia.</p> + + <p>It has generally been assumed that they were woven in Western + Asia Minor, because they were purchased there in former centuries + and taken thence to Europe; but they possess many features that + indicate they may have been woven farther to the east, whence + many could easily have been transported westward in caravans. + Their borders contain the well-known pattern derived from Cufic + letters which, more conventionalised, appears in later years only + in such rugs as the Kabistans and Daghestans of Eastern Caucasia. + Most of them also contain the small octagonal discs and larger + octagonal figures with Greek crosses at the centre that suggest + forcibly the designs of Southeastern Caucasia. The narrow stripes + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id= + "Page_93">93</a></span>of ribbon and chain pattern found in many + of them also are very common in Caucasian rugs; so that it seems + not improbable that these Holbein rugs were made within the + boundaries of that greater Armenia which, embracing the upper + Mesopotamian valley, extended over the eastern part of Asia Minor + and the southern part of modern Caucasia.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p21" id="p21"></a><img src="images/plate21.jpg" + width="500" height="577" alt="Plate 21. Portrait of Georg Gyze by Hans Holbein, Showing a Holbein Rug With Cufic Border" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 21. Portrait of + Georg Gyze by Hans Holbein, Showing a Holbein Rug With Cufic + Border</span></p> + </div> + + <p>These rugs claim the attention not only because they have + borders of such interesting origin, but by the fact that the age + when they were woven is ascertainable. As Holbein lived between + the years 1497 and 1543, and some other rugs of this type appear + in the works of early Flemish and Italian painters, it may + reasonably be assumed that some of them were made before the end + of the XV Century.</p> + + <p>A very excellent example of this class, owned by Mr. C. F. + Williams, is now in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It has a + length of about five feet with a breadth of three and a half. The + ground colour of the field is an olive green and that of the main + stripe of the border is red. The prevailing colours of the + designs, which are entirely geometric, are blue, green, and + ivory. All of these rugs are small or of moderate size, and are + slightly oblong. Some of them have a ground colour of green; and + yellow is frequently found in the pattern. The weaving is rather + loose; and compared with Persian rugs they have fewer knots to + the square inch.</p> + + <p>Another carpet from Asia Minor that also belongs to Mr. C. F. + Williams appears in Plate <a href="#p22">22</a>, opp. Page 94. It + is the only entire rug with this pattern that is known, though a + piece of a similar rug is in the Victoria and Albert Museum at + London. On fields of blue and red are outlined three large + four-pointed stars separated by smaller diamonds. Within these + figures and in the surrounding field is a network of tracery + supporting conventionalised leaf and floral forms. Between the + field and the main stripe of the narrow border is a close + co-ordination of pattern, but the simple ribbon of the inner + guard seems alien. It appears without modification in many later + Asia Minor and Caucasian rugs.</p> + + <p>An important feature are the double knots at the corners of + the stars, since they are identical with designs found in a + manuscript made for one of the Shahs in 1435, and thus assist to + determine the age of the rug. For this reason and on account of + its general character, it seems not unreasonable to place it as + early as the middle of the XV Century.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id= + "Page_94">94</a></span>Similar carpets were woven during a long + period, and it is probable that in the latter half of the + following century they were largely influenced by the weavers + that Solyman the Magnificent, after capturing Tabriz in 1534, + transported to his own country. The same general features still + remained, but the detail was more elaborate and ornate. + Arabesques, palmettes, and floral forms, both of field and + border, resembled more nearly the Iranian character. But at a + later period, after the beginning of the general decadence to + which every industry and art were subject, the patterns became + much simpler, and the colours were reduced almost exclusively to + red and blue with a little green. At length, both pattern and + colours assumed the type of modern Oushaks, that by a slow + process of devolution originated from these antique pieces.</p> + + <p>In Armenia and Asia Minor it is probable that weaving existed + before the Christian era, and that the earliest carpets which + remain, though affected by more eastern influences, are largely + the product of an indigenous art. But in India it was otherwise. + It is true that Sir George Birdwood is authority for the + statement that the Saracens introduced carpet-weaving there; but + it is most probable that at the time of the invasion of the + armies of Tamerlane and during the lives of many of his + successors, whatever carpets were woven were very crude. Even + when the Moguls began to build and embellish palaces, they + obtained their carpets from Persia. But at length Shah Akbar + established manufacturies at Lahore about the year 1580, and + invited Persian weavers to settle there. From them the native + workmen acquired much of their knowledge of patterns and + technique.</p> + + <p>It was during the reign of Shah Jahan (1628-1658), builder of + the famous peacock throne and Taj Mahal, that most of the + choicest pieces that now remain were woven. In delicacy of + texture they rival those of any other country, and it is not + unusual to find pieces with nearly eight hundred knots to the + square inch; moreover, all their designs are depicted with + remarkable clearness of definition. One of the most noted of + these carpets is the woollen piece, about eight yards long by two + and a half wide, that was made at the royal factory at Lahore and + presented to the Girdlers Company of London in 1634. The mingling + of leaf and floral forms, as well as the Herati designs of + rosette and crumpled leaf, on a field of red, shows unmistakably + its relation to Persian carpets. At the same period were woven + large numbers of others with fields covered <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span>with an + imposing display of superbly drawn flowers, of which every part + from root to leaf tips was represented with astonishing realism. + Another class included the animal or hunting carpets, which + unlike their Persian prototypes seem intended not so much to + portray symbolically some historic event or abstract idea, as to + convey a correct impression of an actual event.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> + <a name="p22" id="p22"></a><img src="images/plate22.jpg" + width="350" height="789" alt="Plate 22. Oushak Carpet" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 22. Oushak + Carpet</span></p> + + <p class="center2">Loaned by C. F. Williams, Esq., to the + Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York</p> + </div> + + <p>One of these, a woollen piece with a length of eight and a + quarter feet and a breadth of five and a quarter, is in the + Boston Museum of Fine Arts. The inspiration was from some old + Persian piece, but the rendering is peculiarly Indian. In this + representation of an Oriental jungle is a strange mingling of the + real and unreal. The struggle of a monster bird with a winged + beast, half lion, half elephant, and the demoniac faces of the + border suggest the inspiration of early pagan mythology; but the + movements of the running gazelles and the stealthily creeping + tiger, the attitude of the driver of the cart and his attendant, + are most natural. The drawing as a whole is exceedingly delicate. + The ground colour of the field is the red of most Ispahans and + Herats of this period, but the border is a cream colour, a + combination not in accord with Persian tradition. The other + colours are fawn, blue, pink, grey and brown. It is probably the + only Indian hunting carpet of its kind.</p> + + <p>Few strictly antique carpets from other countries of the + Orient are known. Of the innumerable pieces that were surely + woven in Caucasia and Western Turkestan before the end of the + XVII Century, scarcely a vestige can be found. Nor are there many + from the looms of Syria, though in the days of the Caliphs every + mosque was adorned with magnificent carpets. It is true a few + sterling pieces of Saracenic character, that have been ascribed + to the region about Damascus, still exist. There are also a few + rare and beautiful pieces that have come to light in + China.<a name="FNanchor_15" id="FNanchor_15"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">15</a> But of the countless + thousands that in almost every country of the Orient once covered + floors of palaces and mosques, representing one of the most + refined arts, now nearly lost, only an insignificant fraction + remains.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id= + "Page_96">96</a></span></p> + + <h4>CHART INDICATING PERIODS WHEN ANTIQUE CARPETS WERE MADE</h4> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="c1" id="c1"></a><img src="images/chart1.jpg" + width="550" height="859" alt="CHART INDICATING PERIODS WHEN ANTIQUE CARPETS WERE MADE" + title="" /> + </div> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id= + "Page_97">97</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER VIII</h3> + + <h4>CLASSIFICATION OF MODERN RUGS</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/r.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="R" + title="R" /></span>UGS contribute to the comfort of the nomad + more than any other fabric. With them he closes the entrance to + his tent or covers the floor and couches on which he sits and + sleeps. Thrown over other objects they form the table, made into + saddle bags they take the place of trunks. The followers of Islam + when at prayer kneel on a rug, and in token of affection spread + one over the grave of a friend. To dwellers in cities, also, rugs + contribute largely to the comfort and luxury of the home. Indeed, + without them the splendour of Oriental life would seem + incomplete, since they are the principal furnishings of every + house, where stout woven pieces with long pile are spread as + floor coverings, and lighter ones are hung as portières + and tapestries. Yet it is in the assembly or dining hall that the + finest rugs are used, though here the most valued are exposed + only on great occasions.</p> + + <p>In the East a rug receives a particular name according to + which of these special purposes it is adapted. The large, almost + square piece that is used to cover the centre of the assembly + hall is known as the “Khali;” and the narrow strips + or “runners” that are placed at its sides and ends + are known as the “Kenares.” It is on the Kenares that + the servants are required to walk and the less honoured guests to + stand, for they are rarely of such fine quality as the former. + Before the divan, that generally surrounds three walls and is + covered with fine cloth and velvet, are seats on which are placed + carpets called “Sedjadeh.” They are nearly twice as + long as broad, and since they are of moderate size and excellent + quality they are frequently used for many other purposes. The + hearth rug, termed “Odjalik,” can generally be + distinguished from others, as each end of the field is of + triangular shape with the apex at the extremity. However much any + of these may be valued, the one that to every<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span> worshipper + of Allah has the most sacred association is the + “Namazlik,” or prayer rug, at one end of which is an + arch in token of the mosque. At call for prayer the faithful + Moslem spreads his rug with arch directed towards Mecca, and + kneeling with the palms of his hands at each side of the centre + he bows his head till it touches the rug. As the Mohammedans of + Persia are unwilling that a Namazlik be trampled by the foot of + an infidel, few from there can be bought; but the Mohammedans of + other countries are less scrupulous, so that many of the prayer + rugs sold in America have been made solely for trade and have + never been used in worship. They may be beautiful, but special + interest attaches to old pieces of which the well-worn nap shows + where the knees of both father and son for over half a century + have often pressed. In addition to these are other rugs with + technical names, but a classification of much greater importance + is that which depends on the country or district where they are + woven.</p> + + <p>When the Oriental rugs first appeared in the market of the + United States, they were spoken of as “Turkish,” for + the reason that importers purchased them from Turkish merchants + of Constantinople. But when it became known that they had been + taken there by caravans from countries farther to the east, and + that large numbers of them came from Persia, the name + “Persian,” that to the mind of many conveys ideas of + splendour, was at once applied; even to-day all classes of + Oriental rugs are often spoken of as Persian. As objects of + ornament or utility, their value is independent of their place of + origin; yet it is known that the wool of the nap and the dyes + used in some districts are superior to those in others, and that + in consequence the beauty of some rugs will improve with age far + more than that of others. It is also known that because in + certain districts the material of warp and weft, as well as the + workmanship, is of a superior quality, the rugs made there will + wear better than others. The knowledge, then, of where a rug is + made is important in determining the quality and value, which + otherwise only a critical examination, that few people are able + to make, would show.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p23" id="p23"></a><img src="images/plate23.jpg" + width="550" height="778" alt="Plate 23. Sehna Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 23. Sehna + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>Furthermore, the knowledge of where a rug is made, suggesting + the class of people who wove it, adds immeasurably to our + interest. When, for instance, we look at an old piece of Kurdish + weave with its nomadic designs and shaggy nap, on which a Moslem + savage as an Apache often rested fully half a century ago, there + is called up a picture of the dark-visaged tribesman, fearless + and untamed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id= + "Page_99">99</a></span>as were his ancestors who contested the + march of Xenophon over two thousand years ago. We see him + wandering with his flocks over the hills while he watches for a + chance to fall upon an unsuspecting stranger. We picture to + ourselves the hut of brush upon the mountain side where a slender + barbaric girl bends to tie, with wonderful patience, the knots + one by one. So if we would enjoy our Oriental rugs, we should + know what people made them, and whence and how they journeyed, + before they reached our fireside.</p> + + <p>At the request of a purchaser the vendor is ever ready to + classify a rug, but his statements are not always reliable. This + is partly due to the fact that even the great importing houses + are often deceived. Throughout Asia Minor, Persia, Turkestan, + even farther east, great fairs are regularly held. Here gather + the representatives of tribes from far distant quarters to enjoy + for a few days or weeks the gay life and abandon of the East + while bartering the products of their different crafts. Here come + the purchasing agents looking for rugs; and the pieces that may + be brought from afar are bought and shipped by camel and rail to + such great marts as Tabriz, Tiflis, and Constantinople, where the + bales are unpacked and the rugs assorted, classified and + labelled, before they are resold to the importing houses of + Europe and America. Thus both in the buying from the itinerant + agent of rugs assembled from different quarters and in the + reassortment at the exporting cities there is frequent + opportunity for errors of classification.</p> + + <p>The characteristics of the different groups and classes of + rugs are given in later chapters, but it should not be presumed + that these are infallible guides to the locality where they were + made. Often a ruler, by fostering art, has drawn to his capital + artists and artisans from other districts. Thus designs and + quality of workmanship characteristic of one district would be + adopted in another. So, too, the great caravans that pass along + regular routes eastward and westward, and the annual pilgrimages + to Meshed and Mecca, have been most potent influences for the + dissemination of designs. Yet taking into consideration the + general pattern and smaller designs; the material of warp, weft, + and pile; the knot; the dyes; the finish of sides and ends, and + the peculiarities of the weave, it is possible with a reasonable + amount of certainty to determine in what districts almost all + Oriental rugs are woven.</p> + + <p>It should be borne in mind, however, that the names by which + some of the rugs are known in America are not the same as + those<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id= + "Page_100">100</a></span> by which they are known in Asia. For + instance, the rugs made by some of the tribes of the Tekke + Khanate are known in the Orient as “Tekkes;” but as + the great depot for Turkestan carpets was formerly the city of + Bokhara, they are generally known in this country as + “Bokharas.” On the other hand, there are local + distinctions in the eastern countries not known in the western. + The accompanying classification, therefore, is slightly + arbitrary, but should be convenient for reference; since the + classes represent the cities or districts where are woven the + several different kinds, excepting the Chinese, which are divided + chronologically. The names of the groups are not in each instance + entirely satisfactory, but are probably the best that can be + chosen. The fourth group, for example, has frequently been called + the “Turkoman;” but as it includes some of the rugs + of Afghanistan, and also those of Beluchistan, which is remote + from Turkestan, that name is not sufficiently comprehensive. The + district where these rugs are made is, strictly speaking, the + western and southwestern part of Central Asia; but the term here + employed has the authority of some German writers of note. So, + too, the rugs of Herat, though it is now a city of Afghanistan, + are included with the Persian group; but it should be remembered + that Herat, as well as the districts of Mosul and Kurdistan, was + once part of the old Persian Empire.</p> + + <h4>GROUP I. PERSIAN.</h4> + + <table width="100%" summary="GROUP I. PERSIAN." border="0"> + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>a</i>) Khorassan district:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Herat, Khorassan, Meshed.</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>b</i>) Shiraz district:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Ispahan, Kirman, Yezd, Shiraz, + Niris.</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>c</i>) Feraghan district:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Feraghan, Hamadan, Kara-Geuz, Bibikabad, + Iran, Sarouk, Kashan, Sarabend, Burujird, Sultanabad, + Muskabad, Mahal, Joshaghan, Gulistan, Teheran.</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>d</i>) Sehna district, or Adelan + province:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Sehna, Bijar, Kermanshah, Persian + Kurdistan, Karaje.</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>e</i>) Tabriz district:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Tabriz, Gorevan, Bakshis, Serapi, Herez, + Suj-Bulak, Karadagh, Afshar.</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>f</i>) Kurdistan district:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Western Kurdistan, Mosul, Gozene.</p> + </td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id= + "Page_101">101</a></span></p> + + <h4>GROUP II. ASIA MINOR OR TURKISH.</h4> + + <table width="100%" summary="GROUP I. PERSIAN." border="0"> + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>a</i>) West Asia Minor district:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Bergamo, Ghiordes, Kulah, Oushak, + Ak-Hissar, Demirdji, Kutayah, Smyrna, Melez, Isbarta, + Rhodian, Broussa, Hereke.</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>b</i>) Central Asia Minor + district:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Konieh, Ladik, Kir-Shehr, Anatolian, + Karaman, Sivas, Mudjar, Nigde, Tuzla, Kaisariyeh, Zile, + Yuruk.</p> + </td> + </tr> + </table> + + <h4>GROUP III. CAUCASIAN.</h4> + + <table width="100%" summary="GROUP I. PERSIAN." border="0"> + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>a</i>) North Caucasian:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Daghestan, Kabistan, Kuba, Derbend, + Lesghian, Chichi, Tcherkess.</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>b</i>) Trans Caucasian:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Baku, Shirvan, Soumak, Shemakha, Tiflis, + Kutais, Kazak, Karabagh, Shusha, Gengha.</p> + </td> + </tr> + </table> + + <h4>GROUP IV. CENTRAL ASIATIC.</h4> + + <table width="100%" summary="GROUP IV. CENTRAL ASIATIC." border= + "0"> + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>a</i>) West Turkoman sub-group, + Western influence:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Royal Bokhara, Princess Bokhara, Tekke, + Yomud, Khiva, Afghan, Beshir.</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>b</i>) East Turkoman sub-group, + Eastern influence:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Samarkand, Kashgar, Yarkand.</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>c</i>) Beluchistan.</p> + </td> + </tr> + </table> + + <h4>GROUP V. INDIAN.</h4> + + <table width="100%" summary="GROUP V. INDIAN." border="0"> + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>a</i>) Northern India:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Srinagar, Amritsar, Lahore, Multan, + Agra, Allahabad, Mirzapur, Zabalpur, Patna, Jaipur.</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>b</i>) Southern India:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Madras, Mysore, Bangalore, Warangal, + Malabar, Hyderabad, Marsulipatam.</p> + </td> + </tr> + </table> + + <h4>GROUP VI. CHINESE.<a name="FNanchor_16" id= + "FNanchor_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16" class= + "fnanchor">16</a></h4> + + <table width="100%" summary="GROUP VI. CHINESE." border="0"> + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>a</i>) XVII Century:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">Late Ming 1600-1643 and Early Kang-hi + (1662-1700).</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>b</i>) XVIII Century:</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left15c"> </td> + + <td class="left85c"> + <p class="indent2">1. Late Kang-hi (1700-1722). 2. + Yung-ching (1722-1736). 3. Keen-lung (1736-1795).</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>c</i>) Early and Middle XIX + Century.</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left85c" colspan="2"> + <p class="indent2">(<i>d</i>) Late XIX Century or + Modern.</p> + </td> + </tr> + </table> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id= + "Page_102">102</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER IX</h3> + + <h4>PERSIAN RUGS</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/i.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="I" + title="I" /></span>N the grouping of Oriental rugs, it is not + always desirable to follow the present political divisions of + territory, since great and frequent changes in national + boundaries have occurred without corresponding changes in the + traditional style of weaving. Thus it happens that with the rugs + made in Persia, which is still called Iran by its inhabitants, it + is desirable to group those made within that former Iran that + included the valley of Mesopotamia on the west and part of + Afghanistan on the east. The woven products of all this territory + have characteristics that are similar to one another and that + differentiate them from those of other countries. Their patterns + are distinctly floral, representing leaf, bud, and flower, and + show a tendency to naturalistic drawing with graceful and often + intricate lines. Moreover, their colour schemes of delicate tones + are not only beautiful but in perfect harmony. In marked contrast + with them are the rugs of Caucasia, Asia Minor, and Central Asia, + which have patterns of geometric shape or highly conventionalised + flower forms, and colours that often appear in bold contrast. In + the Chinese rugs, also, is generally less harmony of colour, as + well as less co-ordination of design, than in the Persian. The + scroll and floral patterns appear on the field in isolated + figures, or else imitate with more formal drawing the diaper + pattern of some Iranian carpets. Only in the rugs of India is + there a similarity to the patterns and colour tones of those of + Persia; but the designs are more realistically drawn, less + artistically arranged, and less profuse.</p> + + <h4><i>COLOUR PLATE IV—BERGAMO RUG</i></h4> + + <p><i>The weaver of this interesting Bergamo followed the early + Asia Minor traditions in the use of rich, deep blue and red of + field and border, yet in respect to pattern showed his freedom + from conventionality by departing from types peculiar to his + district and adopting many nomadic designs prevalent throughout + Anatolia. Reciprocal latch-hooks form the background of the + central field, on which are three upright panels containing + octagonal discs; and latch-hooks surrounding lozenges and forming + what may originally have been intended to represent the tree of + life appear almost as conspicuously in the border. There are also + combs, knots of destiny, and innumerable S-forms. The panels at + the upper and lower ends of the field and the reciprocal vandykes + are most suggestive of Ladiks, but in the place of pomegranates + at the ends of the upright stalks are small checquered squares. + Bergamos with such patterns are now rarely seen.</i></p> + + <p class="name"><i>Loaned by Mr. Hulett C. Merritt</i></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="piv" id="piv"></a><img src="images/plate_iv.jpg" + width="550" height="698" alt="COLOUR PLATE IV--BERGAMO RUG" title="" /> + </div> + + <p>The similarity in the rugs of the Persian group is due to past + political influences as well as to common ties of race and + religion. From the time when Ctesiphon and Babylon vied with the + cities of Persia in the splendour of their capitals, all of this + territory was repeatedly under one and the same dominant power, + which at different<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id= + "Page_103">103</a></span> times was held by Saracens, Seljukian + Turks, Timurids, and Safavids; and even after the end of the + Safavid dynasty the influence of Nadir Shah was felt over + Mesopotamia as well as Western Afghanistan. A still stronger + influence is that of race; for Aryans, Arabs, Armenians, and + Turks have blended with the early people of the whole territory, + until not only do all resemble one another, but their + craftsmanship is similar. Furthermore, with the exception of a + few rapidly disappearing Parsees, who still cling to the early + Zoroastrian faith, all are Mohammedans; and in their frequent + pilgrimages to the same shrines is a constant interchange of + ideas and exchange of fabrics. It is true Asia Minor, Caucasia, + and India have shared to some extent the same influences, but to + a much less degree.</p> + + <p>A resemblance, also, exists between many of the physical + features of the entire country that affect the habits and + industries of the people. To be sure the Euphrates and Tigris, + that wind sluggishly through the great Mesopotamian valley, and + the great ranges of the Elburz and Zagros, that extend from Mt. + Ararat easterly and southeasterly through Persia, have no + counterpart; but on the other hand in Mesopotamia, Persia, and + Western Afghanistan are great stretches of sandy wastes where + there is little vegetation, high table-lands where during + rainless summer months the earth is parched, and little valleys + of fertile soil that are watered by streams from the encircling + mountain ridges. Throughout this territory, wherever physical + conditions are similar, the people follow similar pursuits. In + the deserts the impoverished Bedouins live; in the higher lands + some two millions of nomads follow their sheep and goats, + pitching their tents wherever there is pasture; in the valleys + are several millions of people, who, with the placid contentment + of the East, irrigate their garden patches, fashion simple + articles of metal, and weave artistic rugs.</p> + + <p>A general decadence in social, political, and industrial life + pervades the whole country; yet due partly to the inheritance of + a past associated with the glories of Persepolis and Ecbatana, + Babylon and Nineveh, Bagdad and Ctesiphon, and to the more + immediate influence of the textile masterpieces of three + centuries ago, rugs are still produced that in delicacy of weave, + beauty of design, and harmony of colours surpass those of any + other part of the world. In the weave of the best examples is + displayed a technical skill only approached by a few of the Royal + Bokharas. In the fine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id= + "Page_104">104</a></span> rhythm of lines and in the colour + scheme of harmonious and delicate tones, with which a few of the + best products of India alone compare, is united the touch of both + artist and artisan. The fields of the old pieces are lavishly + covered with intricate designs of buds and blossoms supported by + vines or tendrils, and frequently encircled by arabesques that + interlace so as to form an harmonious whole. The fields of the + modern pieces are frequently of solid colour, with central + medallions and triangular corners defined by graceful lines. + Again, the ground colour of the field, which is either uniform or + slightly shading from one end to the other, is covered with + realistically drawn or conventionalised floral designs that are + arranged with studied precision, and are now and then relieved by + some nomadic design. Surrounding the fields are borders of + several stripes, some of which contain an undulating vine with + pendent flowers or palmettes co-ordinate in drawing and colouring + with the main pattern. It is, however, principally in the + colours, which are delicate yet rich, subdued yet lustrous, that + these rugs surpass all others. Their most distinctive tones are + blues, reds, browns, and greens, so arranged that the ground + colours of border and field generally contrast yet remain in + perfect harmony; as where there is some moss green in border and + wine colour in field, each being subordinated to other + superimposed colours representing floral detail.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="m1" id="m1"></a><a href="images/map1z.jpg"> + <img src="images/map1.jpg" width="550" height="353" alt="MAP OF PERSIA" + title="" /></a> + + <p class="center">MAP OF PERSIA</p> + </div> + + <p>The best known of the floral patterns, repeated with formal + precision throughout the field, is the Herati pattern, which is + of uncertain antiquity and origin. It consists of a central + figure that generally represents a rose, but sometimes a peony or + rosette, about which are grouped other figures like crumpled or + lance-shaped leaves. Probably both the central and encircling + figures are of Persian origin, though the latter have been + regarded by some authorities as representing fish and attributed + to Egypt or to China; in fact, they are occasionally drawn so as + distinctly to show eyes and fins. Very frequently four of these + figures are arranged about a lattice-shaped design with pendants + and a central rosette, as in Plate <a href="#po">O</a>, Fig. 4 + (Page 291). This Herati or Fish Pattern, as it is frequently + called, appears in many of the old Persian rugs and in most of + the modern pieces, particularly the Feraghans and Herats. A less + frequently seen floral pattern, which has been used from a very + remote time and is still represented in modern rugs, is the Guli + Hinnai, or Flower of Hinnai (Plate <a href="#po">O</a>, Fig. 3). + Of this plant Mohammed was so fond that he called it the + “chief of this world and the next.” <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span> It + occurs as a formal pattern in many of the Feraghans, and in + several other rugs in which its bright five-petalled flowers are + scattered informally over the field. Another floral pattern + frequently seen is the Mina Khani, illustrated in Plate <a href= + "#po">O</a>, Fig. 2, that was named after Mina Khan, a former + Persian ruler. It is particularly characteristic of Persian + Kurdish pieces in which a dark blue field is covered by a network + of intersecting olive-coloured vines. At the intersections are + placed large flowers that alternate in regular series according + to their different designs and colours; and between them often + appear other flowers, such as the smaller and brighter coloured + Hinnai, so as to destroy too great stiffness of design. As the + flowers are relatively large and sufficiently separate to show + the intervening blue field, this is one of the most effective of + the formal repetitive floral patterns. A still more formal + pattern (Plate O, Fig. 1), which appeared in some of the Persian + rugs of the XVI and XVII centuries, was named after Shah Abbas. + It is not unlikely that it was suggested by the Mina Khani + design, to which it bears a slight resemblance; but the principal + motive is so conventionalised that it has lost much of the floral + character. Between the large and formal palmettes, that are + arranged with mathematical precision, are grouped with similar + regularity smaller palmettes, connected by angular vines and + leafy branches.</p> + + <p>Only a few Persian rugs have the formal repetitive patterns, + such as the Herati, Guli Hinnai, Mina Khani, and Shah Abbas. + Others have the repetitive pattern of bushes, flowers, or the + pear, on a field of rich colour. The remainder have patterns + consisting largely of scrolls, vines, or tendrils, drawn with + exquisite art and decorated with leaves, flowers, and buds in + beautiful profusion; also birds, beasts, human beings, demons, + and other imaginary shapes, sometimes associated with the foliage + but frequently bearing no apparent relation to it, appear as + special motives. Since many of these forms, which originated in + the remote past, have been transplanted from one country to + another, and conventionalised to meet the new environment, it is + interesting to observe the designs in the different classes of + rugs and trace as far as possible the influences to which they + are due.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Herats.</span>—On great + lines of travel between India, Turkestan, and Persia, the city of + Herat in Northwestern Afghanistan for centuries occupied + commercially a most important position, so<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span> that + its people long since became familiar with the best fabrics of + the surrounding countries. During the XV Century it reached its + greatest prosperity, and exerted an important influence on the + art and culture of Western Asia. Before the art decadence that + followed the capture of the city by Nadir Shah in 1731, and the + removal of many of its artisans to Persia, its looms were + producing some of the best rugs of the Orient, which excelled in + delicacy of drawing and in perfect harmony of colours. The fields + contained patterns of serrated leaves entwined with flowing + arabesques, scrolls, and Chinese cloud-bands. Conspicuous among + this tracery were palmettes and such flowers as the lotus and + peony, which were often most realistically drawn.<a name= + "FNanchor_17" id="FNanchor_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17" class= + "fnanchor">17</a> These rugs are of further interest, as they + contained in field and border the design that, slightly changed, + appears in many of the later rugs of Persia as the Herati + pattern.</p> + + <p>The modern rugs are as unlike other Afghans as were the + antique pieces and show a close relationship to those of Persia. + Nor is this surprising, as the weavers, though falling far short + of the high standards of the time when Herat was part of Persia, + are still mindful of the early traditions. Moreover, many of the + rugs are made across the border in Khorassan, and have the silky + pile peculiar to the rugs of that province; but their tones of + colour, consisting principally of red or blue in the field, and + light green, yellow, and ivory in the border, as well as most of + the patterns, are dissimilar. In one type the fields are covered + with pear designs; but their bent narrow ends always turn in the + same direction, whilst those of other rugs turn in different + directions in alternate rows. Another type suggests the + Feraghans, because their fields are covered with the Herati or + Fish pattern; but the borders of the Feraghans usually have the + well-known turtle pattern, while the borders of these adhere to + the traditional Herati design. It is also not unusual to see a + large central medallion, in which blue or red predominates, + separated by a field of lighter colour from the triangular + patterns of the corners. Now and then, a nomadic influence is + seen in the small adventitious figures of the field.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> + <a name="p24" id="p24"></a><img src="images/plate24.jpg" + width="400" height="808" alt="Plate 24. Bijar Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 24. Bijar + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>One of the most characteristic features of this class are the + borders, that generally have three stripes, of which the central + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id= + "Page_107">107</a></span>consists of a continuous vine of + crumpled leaves so conventionalised as to be merely bent, thorny + stalks partly enveloping formal rosettes. The other stripes are + narrow, and have some simple undulating vine. This typical + border, the stout, closely woven warp and weft of cotton, their + large, almost square shapes and rather coarse weave, are + important aids in distinguishing this class from all others. Some + of the rugs recently made are coarse; but the older rugs have + excellent dyes, lustrous nap, and matured tones of well-blended + colours.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i><a name="FNanchor_18" id= + "FNanchor_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">18</a> + <i>Colours</i>, principally red and blue with minor quantities of + green, yellow, and ivory. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes, rarely Sehna. + Knots to inch horizontally, eight to eleven; perpendicularly, + nine to twelve. A half knot, as it appears at back, is about as + long, measured in direction of length of rug, as wide.<a name= + "FNanchor_19" id="FNanchor_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19" class= + "fnanchor">19</a> The rows of knots are firmly pressed down so + that the warp is concealed at back. <i>Warp</i>, of cotton, + rarely wool; one of the two threads encircled by a knot is + generally doubled under the other, sometimes it is only + depressed. <i>Weft</i>, wool, occasionally cotton; of coarse + diameter. For a short space a thread of weft crosses twice, that + is across and back once, between every two rows of knots, then + three times, and so alternates every several rows. <i>Pile</i>, + wool of medium length, soft, and silky. <i>Border</i>, three to + five stripes, and frequently an outer edging of uniform colour. + <i>Sides</i>, a double overcasting. <i>Both ends</i>, narrow web + and loose warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, stout and firm. + <i>Weave</i> at back is of coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, + eight to twenty feet. <i>Usual width</i>, three fifths to three + quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Khorassans.</span>—Among + Iranians, Khorassan is often spoken of as the Land of the Sun. In + its northern part are long ranges of mountains where herds and + flocks find excellent pastures, and intervening valleys where the + soil is cultivated. But the remainder of the province, with the + exception of scattered oases, where small towns and villages are + located, is almost entirely a desert, from which in classic times + the Parthians advanced to harass the armies of Greece and Rome, + then retreated to seek the protection of its vast salt marshes + and inhospitable wastes.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id= + "Page_108">108</a></span></p> + + <p>Nevertheless, in the little villages surrounded by a dreary + wilderness have been produced as beautiful rugs as in those more + favoured spots where prevailed cultured influences that could + develop an Omar Khayyam and produce the sacred shrine of Meshed. + Even before the Mongolian invasion several hundred looms, each + employing four or five women, were busy in the town of Toon in + Central Khorassan. Lying farther to the east is the district of + Kain, which was once renowned for its beautiful rugs of Herati + pattern, but of later years has produced coarser pieces with + inferior designs and bad colours. Still better known was Birjand, + in the southeastern part of the province, where formerly were + woven pieces of superior workmanship that contained from two + hundred to three hundred knots to the square inch. Their colours + were of delicate shades; and it was not unusual to employ ivory + or other light tones for the ground, with which was contrasted + the darker tones of the Herati or pear patterns. Over a century + ago many such towns in Khorassan were weaving rugs of artistic + design and beautiful colours, but as a rule the present products + fall far below the early standards.</p> + + <p>Most of the Khorassans now seen were made almost fifty years + or more ago and rival the best of modern Persian rugs. As a rule, + they are of large size and have closely woven texture. They can + be distinguished from most others by the silkiness of their + moderately long nap, which is often due to the fact that it is + from the fleece of a yearling lamb as well as because it is cut + long and unevenly. Another characteristic is the use of some + shade of red, as a pink, rose, or wine colour. Very frequently it + is magenta or even purple, which are rarely found in other + Persian rugs. Blue and cream are also largely employed. Their + colours are generally softened by age, yet are warm, and at times + brilliant, as when a large field of bright rose red or blue + surrounds a central medallion.</p> + + <p>The diversity of pattern in Khorassans is partly due to + copying designs of rugs brought from other provinces by the + pilgrims who yearly visit Meshed, and to the remoteness from one + another of different centres of weaving in a province occupying + one fourth of all Persia. One pattern, however, based upon the + treatment of the pear design, which is employed in many of these + pieces, at once distinguishes them from rugs of other districts. + It consists of large pears arranged in regular order on a field + of dark colour with their principal axes inclined diagonally in + the same direction, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" + id="Page_109">109</a></span> of two or three much smaller pears + partly resting on them and partly projecting beyond their edges. + Unlike the pear designs in other Persian rugs, which are oval, + these are elongated like those of Indian rugs; and within them, + as well as in the field, are often small floral figures. This + distinctive pattern is rendered more effective by the colour + scheme; since frequently pears of red or magenta, defined by + lines of yellow and containing white petalled flowers, rest upon + a ground of dark blue. The Herati design is also frequently + employed, and in very old pieces are occasionally represented + birds and animals naturalistically drawn. It is not unusual to + see a central medallion or large vase of flowers surrounded by a + field of bright uniform colour, and in some rugs are two + medallions. When the centre contains a medallion, the + triangular-shaped corners are set off by lines that are much + simpler than those in Sarouks and Kermanshahs.</p> + + <p>Few other rugs have more noticeable borders; for not only are + they very wide, but in the main stripe, which is as wide as + several guard stripes, is some characteristic pattern. + Occasionally it contains the Herati design, but more frequently + it consists of a heavy undulating vine with incipient flower + forms, that at times almost assume the appearance of a + bird’s head resting on a sub-pattern of double floral vine. + This stripe, illustrated in Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 2, + (opp. Page 156) is so frequently met with in Khorassans as to be + characteristic of them. The narrow guard stripes usually contain + some simple vine or ornate reciprocal figure.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally rose, + blue, and ivory, with minor quantities of yellow and green. + <i>Knot</i>, Sehna. Many are “left-hand.” Knots to + inch horizontally, eight to thirteen; perpendicularly, twelve to + twenty. The rows of knots are firmly pressed down, so that the + warp is concealed and the weft is partly hidden at back. + <i>Warp</i>, cotton; one of the two threads encircled by a knot + is doubled under the other. A few short lengths of threads of + warp hang loose at the back of some pieces. <i>Weft</i>, almost + always cotton, occasionally wool of fine diameter and usually + dyed blue. A thread of weft crosses twice between two rows of + knots, excepting at intervals of every six or eight rows of + knots, where it crosses three or more times. <i>Pile</i>, wool of + medium length, silky and unevenly clipped. <i>Border</i>, three + to six stripes, and generally an outer edging of uniform colour. + <i>Sides</i>, a double overcasting of same colour as edging. + <i>Both ends</i>, a narrow web and short warp fringe. + <i>Texture</i>, moderately firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of + moderately fine grain. <i>Usual<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span> length</i>, five to + twelve feet. <i>Usual width</i>, three fifths to three quarters + length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Mesheds.</span>—In few + parts of the East have the weavers received greater inspiration + from sacred and historic association than those of Meshed. To + Shiite Mohammedans it contains the most holy spot in Persia; for + within a mosque resplendent with façade of blue and white + tiles, and with gilded minarets of exquisite design, lie the + remains of Ali Riza, the eighth Imam or Moslem priest, in a tomb + that is viewed yearly by nearly one hundred thousand pilgrims. It + was for a short time the capital of Shah Abbas, who beautified + its mosques; and here Nadir Shah, whose remains lie in the + mausoleum, held his court after the capture of Delhi. Within its + walls was born Firdousi, the Homer of Persia; and not far away, + among the mountains to the west, was the home of the poet and + astronomer, Omar Khayyam. Not only devotees but large numbers of + merchants regularly visit the city in the caravans from Khiva, + Bokhara, Herat, Yezd, and Teheran, so that it is also a city of + commercial importance.</p> + + <p>It is possible that a few of those matchless pieces which were + attributed to Herat before its destruction by Nadir Shah were + made in the district near Meshed, since according to an Arabian + traveller<a name="FNanchor_20" id="FNanchor_20"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">20</a> who visited it during the + XIV Century many fine carpets then lay on the floor of its + mosque. It is also believed that within the shrine, which has + never been entered by an unbeliever, still remain some of the + most magnificent carpets of the Orient. But for more than a + century the textile industry has been declining, and the rugs now + seen are generally of recent manufacture.</p> + + <p>As a rule, these rugs are of the Khorassan type, and have the + same silky appearance of nap, though it is shorter and more + evenly clipped. The pattern, however, is generally different, as + seldom is the field completely covered with the pear design, but + whenever used, it is of elaborate drawing and frequently very + large. Nor is the characteristic Khorassan border stripe, + illustrated in Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 2 (opp. Page 156), + employed. On the other hand, it is not usual to see large central + medallions, with floral designs in tones of rose or pink on + fields of blue or ivory, and borders with undulating floral + vines, in which appears evidence of Herati influence. Most of the + rugs that now exist were made within the last fifty years, and + are of large <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id= + "Page_111">111</a></span>size and almost square shape. The colour + scheme inclines to light and often brilliant tones, which at + times are strongly contrasted with small masses of much darker + shades. The wool is excellent, and the warp and weft are rarely + coarse.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p25" id="p25"></a><img src="images/plate25.jpg" + width="550" height="701" alt="Plate 25. Kermanshah Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 25. Kermanshah + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally rose + or pink, blue and white, with minor quantities of yellow and + green. <i>Knot</i>, generally Sehna, rarely Ghiordes. Knots to + inch horizontally, eight to fifteen; perpendicularly, twelve to + seventeen. The rows of knots are pressed down, so that the warp + is concealed and the weft is partly hidden at back. <i>Warp</i>, + generally cotton, occasionally wool; one of the two threads + encircled by a knot is doubled under the other. <i>Weft</i>, wool + or cotton, of fine diameter and usually dyed blue. A thread of + weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, + wool of fine quality and medium length. <i>Border</i>, usually + from three to six stripes, occasionally as many as eight, and + generally an outer edging of uniform colour. <i>Sides</i>, a + double overcasting of same colour as edging. <i>Lower end</i>, a + narrow web and warp fringe. <i>Upper end</i>, a web and warp + fringe. <i>Texture</i>, moderately firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is + of slightly coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, six to fourteen + feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two thirds to seven eighths length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Ispahans.</span>—Still + imposing in the ruins of its former splendour, surrounded by + orchards, vineyards, and groves of trees that shade a broad, + well-watered plain, is the ancient city of Ispahan. Under the + Caliphs it became the capital of Persia; and though sacked by + Tamerlane, who slew seventy thousand of its inhabitants, it rose + to such importance that in the XVII Century it contained within + its walls several palaces, one hundred and sixty mosques, over + two score of colleges, nearly two thousand caravansaries, and + about three quarters of a million people. Now the population has + dwindled to about sixty thousand; and the few stately mosques and + colleges that remain amid miles of deserted streets, abandoned + bazaars, and ruined homes but feebly reflect the magnificence of + the former capital.</p> + + <p>Here was the royal court of Shah Abbas, who sent to Italy, for + the purpose of studying decorative art, a number of the most + experienced artisans, to whom are accredited some of the + gracefully drawn designs of many of the early carpets. Here, in + the days of its greatest prosperity, were founded many + industries, and on its looms were undoubtedly woven some of the + best of old Persian carpets.<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span> Though Herat is now + regarded by some authorities as the centre where the so-called + Ispahan rugs were made, it is improbable, as previously pointed + out, that all of them came from there. But after the death of + Shah Abbas the rug industry began to decline; and with the + removal of the capital to Shiraz, in 1760, Ispahan ceased to be a + rug-producing centre of consequence. There may be a doubt whether + such enormous carpets, as the one with length of sixty feet and + breadth of thirty that Sir Purdon Clark in his monograph on + Oriental Carpets mentions as lying in the hall of Chehel Sutoon + at Ispahan, were made there or were imported from other cities; + but the weaving of rugs has never entirely ceased; and so great + is the fame of the former glory of the city that even now + Oriental dealers will often apply to rugs the term + “Ispahan” as an epithet of superiority.</p> + + <p>The few modern pieces which reach the western markets bear + little resemblance to their prototypes; and even among themselves + show little similarity of pattern, though the pear and Herati + designs are not uncommon. In some rugs a century old the field is + almost covered with what is known as the Persian crown jewel, and + in others the field contains diamond-shaped medallions arranged + in regular order with small foliate and floral forms placed + between them. Small figures of animals are also occasionally + represented. The border is generally narrow and lacking in + impressive individuality, so that the character of the rugs + depends largely on the pattern of the field and the well-seasoned + colours, which are always rich and harmonious. Some shade of red + or blue is usually chosen for the ground; and in the designs are + green, yellow, and white. The weave has variations rarely found + in other rugs; for the warp, which is usually cotton, may also be + wool, or wool and cotton twisted together; and the weft may + likewise be wool or cotton, and may cross between the rows of + knots either once or twice in different rugs, or even once or + twice in the same rug.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i><a name="FNanchor_21" id= + "FNanchor_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">21</a> + <i>Colours</i>, principally red and blue, with minor quantities + of green and yellow. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch + horizontally six to nine; perpendicularly, eight to fourteen. The + rows of knots are firmly pressed down. <i>Warp</i>, usually + cotton, occasionally wool; in a few pieces wool or cotton are + twisted together. Each thread of warp is equally prominent at + back. <i>Weft</i>, wool or cotton. A thread of weft crosses once + or twice between two rows of <span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span>knots. If it is wool, it + generally crosses twice; if of cotton, two threads are generally + placed side by side and cross together once as a single thread. + <i>Pile</i>, wool, of short or medium length. <i>Sides</i>, a + double selvage of two or three chords. <i>Lower end</i>, a web. + <i>Upper end</i>, a web and fringe. Occasionally the web is + turned back and hemmed. <i>Texture</i>, firm. <i>Weave</i> at + back is moderately coarse. <i>Usual length</i>, six to fourteen + feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two fifths to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Kirmans.</span>—On + account of the isolated position of Kirman in Southeastern + Persia, where the almost impassable saline and sandy deserts by + which it is surrounded on the north and east, and the mountain + ridges that separate it from the fertile valleys of Persia on the + west, in a measure protected it from the repeated invasions that + disturbed the political and industrial conditions of Northern + Persia, it has continuously for over a thousand years been an + important centre for the manufacture of rugs. Moreover, during + all this period it has been noted for the excellence of their + quality. As early as the Mohammedan conquests its fabrics were + taken to furnish the floors and divans of Caliphs’ palaces. + When Marco Polo visited Persia in 1270 he wrote of the beautiful + shawls and carpets made by the women of Kirman; and the noted + French traveller Chardin, who lived in that country during part + of the XVII Century, also spoke most favourably of them. Even + after Nadir Shah removed many of the most skilled weavers to the + northern part of Persia subsequent to ascending the throne in + 1739, and Aga Mohammed Khan pillaged the city and massacred many + of the inhabitants in 1794, the rug industry continued to + prosper, and to-day that district is producing the best of modern + pieces.</p> + + <p>To this isolation is also largely due the excellence of the + weave and dyes, since the artisans have in a measure escaped the + pernicious influences of market demands and aniline colours. And + to it must be attributed the fact that the old Iranian textile + art appears nowhere else in greater purity; for of all the rugs + on the market to-day these conform more nearly in texture, + colour, and design to the masterpieces of earlier times, and show + none of the foreign influences appearing in pieces woven in the + north. And yet in Kirman is complexity of race as well as + religion; for the Beluches who have wandered across the desert + mingle with the Persians; and the Guebres, still practising in + secret their fire worship, meet with the Mohammedans.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id= + "Page_114">114</a></span>For long ages silkworms have been + cultivated in the district about Kirman and fed on the mulberry + trees that grow wild among its hills, so that it is not + surprising that small quantities of silk are sometimes used in + the rugs; but as a rule the pile is entirely of wool, yet of such + fine quality and so well woven that many of the old pieces have a + lustrous and silky appearance. This wool, which is white and of + unusually fine texture, is partly the product of the native sheep + and partly the product of a variety of goats that live among the + ridges and yield fleeces almost as fine as those of Kashmir.</p> + + <p>It is probably because of the fondness of the people of Kirman + for roses, which they cultivate for the attar, that they depict + them so profusely in their rugs. Sometimes they represent them as + filling vases set in rows, or again as formal bouquets arranged + in regular order upon the field. They also weave them in the + borders among green leaves, as placed there tenderly and not + hanging from such stiffly formed vines as are seen in other + Persian rugs. Nor are they conventionalised like the flowers of + most modern rugs; but petal, leaf, and stem are drawn with a + precision that suggests the work of Indian weavers. Usually they + are red contrasting with a ground colour of soft, ashy grey in + the field, and of golden yellow in the rich, harmonious border. + Sometimes, instead of a profusion of roses, there are other + flowers, such as the sunflower, suggesting the old Zoroastrian + faith, the cypress, or the sacred “cocos.” Again, the + general design may be modified from one strictly floral, and amid + the foliage may be introduced birds, animals, or human beings; + but the naturalistic drawing is always noticeable. In modern + pieces the central medallion is often adopted, yet the general + resemblance to older pieces is evident. As a rule the border has + five stripes, of which the main one is twice the width of any + other, and surrounding the outer is a narrow edging that is + usually pinkish red; though now and then, according to the + general colour scheme, a very pleasing effect is obtained by + substituting an edging of moss green.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p26" id="p26"></a><img src="images/plate26.jpg" + width="500" height="797" alt="Plate 26. Kurdistan Rug with Mina Khani Pattern" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 26. Kurdistan Rug + with Mina Khani Pattern</span></p> + </div> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally grey + or ivory, with minor quantities of faun, yellow, rose, and blue. + <i>Knot</i>, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally eleven to twenty; + perpendicularly, eleven to twenty. The rows of knots are pressed + down so that the warp is concealed and the weft is partly hidden + at back. <i>Warp</i>, cotton; one of the two threads encircled by + knot is doubled under the other. <i>Weft</i>, generally wool of + fine diameter, occasionally cotton, and frequently dyed blue. A + thread of weft crosses twice between every <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span>two rows + of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, short, soft, and silky. + <i>Border</i>, usually of five stripes and an outer edging of + uniform colour that is generally pink but sometimes green. + <i>Sides</i>, a double overcasting of the same colour as edging. + <i>Both ends</i>, a narrow web and short warp fringe. + <i>Texture</i>, very firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of moderately + fine grain. <i>Usual length</i>, five to seven feet. <i>Usual + width</i>, three fifths to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Yezd.</span>—In the + centre of a sandy plain, midway between Kirman and Kashan, is the + city of Yezd, where almost the last of the Iranian + fire-worshippers, now a small part of the total population, still + follow the ancient faith. Though partly shut off from the great + desert of Khorassan by a mountain range, the city is only an + oasis, where the drifting sands that buried the old city ever + suggest to the inhabitants the dread spirit of desolation which + finds an echo in ruined walls within. At the present time very + few piled rugs are woven there and they are rarely seen in + Western markets; yet on account of the historic interest in its + people, the name is sometimes applied to modern products made in + other districts. At one time it was noted for its silk rugs, and + also for its felt “namads,” which are generally too + heavy to be transported, since some of them have a thickness of + two inches and a superficial area of ten thousand square + feet.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Shiraz.</span>—Near the + centre of a small, well-cultivated valley encircled by mountains + is Shiraz, capital of Farsistan. During the reign of Kerim Khan, + from 1760 to 1779, it was the capital of Persia; but since then + it has suffered from earthquakes and neglect until now much of + its former glory has departed. And yet there still remain + associations to kindle the imagination, for without the gates are + the gardens that Persian poets have extolled in verse; the tombs + of Saadi and Hafiz; and not far away are the spots where Cyrus, + Darius, and Xerxes lived, and the ruined palaces that Alexander + destroyed in a night of drunken revelry.</p> + + <p>As early as the time of the Caliphs this district produced + large numbers of carpets; though few, if any, remain that were + woven before the XV Century. As is the case with modern pieces, + all of them were distinguished for their soft and beautiful wool, + which is to be attributed to the climate and pasture of the + surrounding mountains and valleys. One of the oldest + existing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id= + "Page_116">116</a></span> rugs of this district which displays + the characteristic wool is referred to by Dr. F. R. Martin in the + following words:<a name="FNanchor_22" id= + "FNanchor_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">22</a> + “As soon as I had touched it, I was certain that we had to + deal with a very rare kind of carpets which were made at Shiraz, + or at least with the brilliant Shiraz wool. Most of the carpets + made of that wool are lost, because the material was such a soft + one that it was easily worn out. I know of very few which are + older than the eighteenth century. No wool in all Persia takes + such rich and deep colour as the Shiraz wool. The deep blue and + the dark ruby red are equally extraordinary, and that is due to + the brilliancy of the wool, which is firmer and, so to say, more + transparent than silk, and makes one think of translucent enamel. + As a piece of colour this carpet is certainly one of the finest, + and there are very few carpets that have greater charm, which + even the best reproduction could not give. In its colours there + is something of an early Gothic stained-glass window, where the + dust of ages has so covered the design that it has become + obscured and the imagination of the spectator must complete it. + Certainly the Persians for whom this carpet was made used to sit + and dream for hours over the beauty of its colours, beautiful as + the wonderful landscape surrounding Shiraz.”</p> + + <p>On account of the design and workmanship of this remarkable + piece it is referred by Dr. Martin to the XV Century. During the + two following centuries the carpets of Shiraz attained the high + standard of excellence prevalent in the principal cities of + Persia; but most of those pieces are now extremely rare, as they + were woven chiefly for imperial use or for exchange with foreign + rulers. This city experienced the art decadence that began with + the XVIII Century, yet under the patronage of Kerim Khan imperial + factories for weaving were again established there.</p> + + <p>Though some of the rugs made eighty or even sixty years ago + are certainly beautiful, these modern pieces, as a rule, lack the + excellent qualities of early rugs, and those more recently woven + are still poorer. On a few of them are depicted designs that are + strictly Persian; but they generally depart widely from the early + traditions, and floral forms are very much conventionalised. In a + large number of this class the field is covered with pear designs + which are described by straight lines and angles. Sometimes they + are as small as in the Sarabends, <span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span> occupying the whole field + as the principal motive; or they may be placed less prominently + within diagonal or perpendicular stripes. Again, they may be as + large as in Khorassans and grouped with other designs. Another + very common pattern, known as the “pole-medallion,” + consists of a narrow perpendicular bar connecting two or more + large diamond-shaped figures on which are grouped + conventionalised floral forms and geometric designs. In other + pieces the pattern is as geometric as that of any Caucasian rug, + and it is not unusual to see both field and border profusely + adorned with latch-hooks enclosed within and surrounding + geometric figures. Nor is it unusual to see small figures of men + and animals scattered through the field. Indeed, there is no + other Persian rug in which the pattern is so heterogeneous. The + borders usually consist of a number of narrow stripes, or a wide + one with narrow guard stripes. One of them, at least, almost + invariably contains some form of vine and leaves, and not + infrequently the row of small X figures that also appear in + Shirvans. In fact, the rugs are sometimes mistaken for Shirvans + on account of the resemblance in geometric designs.</p> + + <p>Though there is such variety in the patterns, these rugs are + not difficult to recognise. There is something distinctive about + the dark blues and reds contrasted with smaller areas of ivory + and yellow. They are, as a rule, loosely woven, and many of them + have a trait of lying unevenly on the floor. Not infrequently an + extra band of pile is woven between the border and the broad + embroidered webs of the ends, from which hang a loose fringe. The + sides are overcast with heavy strands of wool varied like a + barber-pole at regular intervals; and, as is not the case with + any other class, they are often ornamented at intervals with + coloured tassels.</p> + + <p>There are also large numbers of Shiraz saddle-bags, which are + superior to any others made. They resemble the Caucasian, as the + patterns are geometric; but they may be distinguished from them + by the finer wool and a slightly different colour scheme.</p> + + <p>Not infrequently the term “Mecca” is applied to + Shiraz rugs, and the impression is conveyed that they were made + there. Nor is the statement always entirely devoid of truth; for + each year caravans aggregating some two hundred thousand souls + enter that city to make their devotions to Allah, to walk around + the sacred stone within the Kaaba, and leaving behind their + forgotten sins to return homeward with a bit of sacred earth or a + strip of the temple’s covering. Each of these pilgrims + bears offerings for propi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" + id="Page_118">118</a></span>tiation, of which a large proportion + are rugs; and whatever their size, they are invariably the + choicest the devotee can offer. Since the Mohammedan priests + regard the best interests of their religion and themselves as + conserved by a disposition of all articles not directly available + for their use, they sell large quantities of such rugs, that find + their way to Cairo, Damascus, and Constantinople. Furthermore, + the pilgrims carry many pieces which are sold or exchanged along + the routes of the caravans or at Mecca, and ultimately reach the + same markets. Such a large number of the pieces that years ago + came from these sources were of the well-known type of Shiraz + rugs that they and similar pieces which had never left Persia + were called Mecca rugs. This deception is still encouraged by + some dealers, because for many buyers a special interest is + attached to a piece that they are persuaded has been carried on + this pilgrimage as an offering.</p> + + <p><span class="smcap">Type Characteristics.</span> + <i>Colours</i>, principally blue, red, and ivory, with minor + quantities of yellow and green. <i>Knot</i>, generally Sehna, + frequently Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally seven to twelve; + perpendicularly, eight to twelve. At back one of the half knots + is generally smaller than the other and pressed to one side. The + other half knot is about as long as wide, and the yarn is not + drawn tight against the warp. The rows of knots are pressed down, + so that their alignment is slightly irregular, and the warp is + concealed at back. <i>Warp</i>, almost always wool; in a few + modern rugs goats’ hair is used. Each of the threads + encircled by a knot is almost equally prominent at back, or + occasionally one to each knot is depressed. <i>Weft</i>, wool of + medium diameter, frequently coloured red. A thread of weft + crosses twice between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, + short to medium, and silky. <i>Border</i>, three to five stripes. + Beyond the borders, at each end, is frequently a narrow band of + pile. <i>Sides</i>, a heavy double overcasting in a barber-pole + stripe or in short lengths of different colours, which generally + consist of two of the following colours: red, yellow, green, and + blue. In some pieces small tufts of wool protrude from the sides + at regular intervals of one or more feet. <i>Lower end</i>, a + broad web of coloured stripes, through which may run a dovetailed + coloured cord, and warp loops. <i>Upper end</i>, a broad web of + coloured stripes, through which may run a dovetailed coloured + cord, and warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, loose. <i>Weave</i> at + back is of slightly coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, five to + nine feet. <i>Usual width</i>, three fifths to four fifths + length.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p27" id="p27"></a><img src="images/plate27.jpg" + width="550" height="750" alt="Plate 27. Gorevan Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 27. Gorevan + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id= + "Page_119">119</a></span></p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Niris.</span>—A + resemblance exists between the rugs that take their name from + Lake Niris and those of Shiraz, which is distant only fifty miles + to the westward; for many of each class are woven with the same + silky wool, obtained from sheep that graze in the intervening + mountain ranges, and the shepherd weavers about the lake have + acquired ideas from the old capital. This resemblance exists + mostly in the soft, floccy appearance of the nap, and in the + barber-pole or parti-coloured overcasting of the sides. The webs + of each end are broad and have long fringes; but generally those + of the Shiraz are embroidered and crossed with one or more + parti-coloured cords, whilst those of Niris pieces are, as a + rule, flatly woven in stripes of different colours. There is also + an occasional resemblance in pattern, but the best known pattern + of the Niris is rarely seen in the Shiraz. On the other hand, + they are more firmly woven; and there is a slight difference in + the character of their weave, since one of the two threads of + warp encircled by a knot is depressed below the other, and the + weft is of wool coloured red, whereas in the Shiraz it is + frequently of cotton.</p> + + <p>The pears are the favourite design, and, like those in + Sarabends, extend over the field in orderly array; but they are + much larger and consist of an assemblage of bright colours + isolated from one another, yet grouped gracefully in a way that + might readily suggest the origin of crown jewels sometimes + ascribed to them. Frequently the ground is a dark blue, and the + pears are of red, blue, green, and ivory. Violet and yellow are + also employed. In other types, less usually seen, the field is + covered with a lattice-work pattern containing small figures. The + typical border has a broad central stripe of vine and flower, + with narrow guards of simpler vine or reciprocal trefoil. + Barber-pole stripes are also characteristic of the borders.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally blue, + red, yellow, green, and ivory. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to + inch horizontally six to eleven; perpendicularly, seven to + fifteen. The rows of knots are not closely pressed down, so that + at the back the warp is noticeable and the weft conspicuous. + <i>Warp</i>, wool; one of the two threads encircled by a knot is + depressed below the other at back and frequently doubled under + the other. <i>Weft</i>, wool of medium diameter, generally dyed + red. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of + knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium length. <i>Border</i>, + generally of three stripes, sometimes as many as seven. + <i>Sides</i>, a heavy double overcasting in a barber-pole stripe + or in short lengths of different<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span> colours, such as red, + blue, green, yellow, and black. <i>Both</i> ends, a broad web of + coloured stripes, one row of knots, and loose warp fringe. + <i>Texture</i>, loose. <i>Weave</i> at back is of slightly coarse + grain. <i>Usual length</i>, four to seven feet. <i>Usual + width</i>, three quarters to four fifths length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class= + "smcap">Feraghans.</span>—Stretching eastward from the base + of Mt. Elwund is the plain of Feraghan. Its length does not + exceed forty-five miles, nor its breadth ten or fifteen, yet here + are clustered several hundred villages. On account of its + altitude of seven thousand feet, the ground is covered with snow + in winter, and the people are then huddled in their low mud + houses, and the flocks and herds are gathered within the village + walls. But in the spring the men are cultivating the fields, and + the sheep are grazing on the banks of numerous streams. It is a + plain of fertility and industry. For generations it has been + productive of large numbers of fine rugs, and it is still + possible among its villages to find some of those old pieces that + have been regarded by the Persians themselves as the best + examples of the textile art.</p> + + <p>When the characteristic patterns of Feraghans have once been + carefully observed, they are never forgotten; yet it is + surprising to note the many distinctions observable in a large + collection. These patterns may conveniently be divided into two + groups, namely: one in which the field is entirely covered with + diaper designs, and the other in which the field contains a + central medallion surrounded by uniform colour. Probably nine + tenths of these rugs fall within the first group, which is + divisible into three sub-groups: those in which the field is + covered with the Herati design; those in which the field is + covered with the Guli Hinnai design; and those in which the field + is covered with some other small diaper design.</p> + + <p>The Herati design is the one most frequently seen, and is + found in the very oldest of existing Feraghans. As a rule, the + crumpled leaf does not exceed a length of four or five inches, + and the rosettes are proportionally small, so that the ground + colour is almost entirely concealed, and at a short distance is + not distinguishable; but there are other pieces in which the leaf + is over a foot in length, and the figures less closely clustered, + so that the ground enters prominently into the colour scheme. The + prevailing colour of the leaf and rosette is generally rose red, + which gives a distinctly reddish tone to the rug; though the + small designs have shades of green, yellow,<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span> white, + and light blue. The ground is usually a rich, dark blue; but + occasionally red or even ivory is used. In very few other rugs + are the corners separated from the field, unless there is a + central medallion; but in almost all Feraghans small + triangular-shaped corners, with colours contrasting with those of + the field, are separated from it by lines bearing teeth or + serrated edges.</p> + + <p>Surrounding the field is a border that has from five to seven + stripes. The main stripe is about three times as wide as any + other, and may have a ground colour of red, blue, or ivory white; + but in many of the best pieces it is moss green, with blue, + yellow, or red appearing in the overlying pattern. Of different + but corresponding shades is the colour of the ground and designs + of other stripes. Probably three fourths of the Feraghans now + seen have the well-known turtle design in the main stripe; but it + is sometimes replaced by the rose design shown in Plate <a href= + "#pe">E</a>, Fig. 12 (opp. Page 156), or by an undulating vine + with rosette or palmettes. On the innermost stripe, which is very + narrow, is invariably represented some reciprocal figure, as the + trefoil or sawtooth; and on the other stripes are undulating + vines, with floral or quasi-floral figures.</p> + + <p>The Feraghans with fields covered with Guli Hinnai designs + instead of the Herati show a difference in both drawing and + colouring, though the general effect is much the same. In place + of crumpled leaves and rosettes of reddish hue are the star-like + flowers of the Hinnai plants that brighten the mountains + surrounding the Feraghan plain with their large yellow or ivory + coloured petals. The pattern, as a whole, is slightly more + prominent, and the prevailing colour tone, which is rich, is less + red and more yellow. There is, however, a very noticeable + difference in the pattern of the third sub-group, though + specimens are not frequently seen. In these the small figures of + conventionalised flowers sometimes have geometric shapes and are + arranged in diagonal or perpendicular rows. Moreover, they + generally lack the rich colouring of the preceding + sub-groups.</p> + + <p>The central medallion is found not only in modern but also in + old Feraghans. It is generally of diamond or hexagonal shape, + with serrated edges and with pendants. Almost invariably Herati + figures cover its surface, and not infrequently some lattice-work + design with small conventionalised leaves or flowers appear + faintly on the field of uniform colour surrounding it. As a rule, + pieces of this group are of a more striking and handsome + appearance than those<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id= + "Page_122">122</a></span> in which the entire field is covered + with numerous minute figures of equally rich hues that blend and + produce, when viewed at a distance, an undefined colour. The + border designs are similar to those of the other group. All of + the old pieces were stoutly woven; and though the nap was short, + many of those that remain are still serviceable.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red + and dark blue, with minor quantities of yellow, light blue, + green, and white. <i>Knot</i>, Sehna, rarely Ghiordes. Knots to + inch horizontally eight to thirteen; perpendicularly, seven to + eighteen. The rows of knots are pressed down, so that the warp is + usually concealed at back. <i>Warp</i>, cotton; each of the two + threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back. + <i>Weft</i>, cotton, occasionally dyed blue or pink. A thread of + weft of fine or medium diameter crosses twice between every two + rows of knots, or occasionally a thread of coarse diameter with + much slack crosses only once, so that the transverse warp + produces a quincunx effect. <i>Pile</i>, wool, clipped short. + <i>Border</i>, three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a double overcasting + in dark colour. <i>Lower end</i>, a web. <i>Upper end</i>, a web + and warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of + slightly coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, four to twelve feet. + <i>Usual width</i>, three fifths to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Hamadans.</span>—A little + to the northeast of Elwund and at an altitude that overlooks a + small, well-cultivated valley adjacent to the Feraghan plain is + the city of Hamadan. On this site was the ancient city of + Ecbatana, capital of Media; and here guarded by Jews is a tomb, + which tradition declares is the burial place of Esther and + Mordecai. Within the encircling walls are gardens, bazaars, and + mosques; yet the present city of forty thousand inhabitants with + its general misery and squalor has little to remind one of the + magnificence of that former capital which for a short period was + mistress of the world.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p28" id="p28"></a><img src="images/plate28.jpg" + width="550" height="668" alt="Plate 28. Bergamo Prayer Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 28. Bergamo Prayer + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>Like Yezd, Hamadan is famous for its namads; and like Yezd it + once produced, according to tradition, most beautiful silk + carpets, though no longer are any woven there. But its looms have + been busy for the last few generations weaving rugs of wool and + camels’ hair, which have such marked individuality that + they bear unmistakably on their face the stamp of identification. + The few old rugs that remain are sterling pieces, which are + stoutly woven and of excellent dyes. They come in many sizes; + some are simply mats, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" + id="Page_123">123</a></span>others sedjadehs, and an unusually + large number are runners. The typical pattern of the mats and + smaller sedjadehs consists of a central diamond-shaped medallion, + surrounded by a field of contrasting colour, from which are set + off the triangular-shaped corners. In the large sedjadehs and in + the runners, which are sometimes twenty feet or more in length, + are often three or more pole medallions, though the pole device + may be omitted. These medallions and corners are covered with + small, carefully drawn geometric figures, or more frequently with + floral designs such as appear in Feraghans, and as a rule are + defined by serrated lines or are fringed with hooks or comb-like + teeth. The colour of the surrounding field is unobtrusive. In + some pieces it is void of pattern, and its monotonous tone is + broken only by slight variations of shade; yet not infrequently + it is marked with faint lines of slightly darker or lighter tint, + like a delicate tracery. Not only are the borders wide, but a + broad edging, which is at least one half and sometimes two thirds + as wide as all the coloured stripes combined, surrounds them. As + it is usually of camels’ hair and without pattern, it is a + very noticeable characteristic. The main stripe has an undulating + vine with conventionalised flowers, and the two guard stripes + have a simpler vine, or, more frequently, the reciprocal + trefoils.</p> + + <p>To this general type, however, are many exceptions. Sometimes + the figures of the medallion and corners are more geometric; + sometimes the corners are omitted; the outside edging may be + decorated with large conventionalised floral or geometric + figures; and occasionally a camel or some other animal is + represented in the field or border. A few of the old rugs were + strikingly handsome. Dr. George Birdwood refers to a large + Hamadan that formerly hung in the India Museum in these + words:<a name="FNanchor_23" id="FNanchor_23"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">23</a> “An irregular + lozenge form, a little island of bright clustering flowers, of + which the prevailing colours are red and blue, adorns the centre; + while the wide extended ground of yellow, in irregular shades, + surrounds it with a rippling amber sea; and there are blue pieces + in the corners, within the broad blue border worked in + arabesques. It is a carpet not to be laid on a floor, but to be + hung in a gallery, to be looked at like a golden sunset. It was a + sacrilege to remove it from the mosque where it evidently was + once spread under the great dome. <i>Beati + possidentes.</i>”</p> + + <p>Most of the old pieces have disappeared, and in their places + are <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id= + "Page_124">124</a></span>modern products with pile of wool or + goat’s hair often dyed in garish colours. There are also + many nondescript rugs, which were gathered from wandering tribes + or surrounding villages and taken to Hamadan, since for a long + time it has been one of the great rug markets of Persia. When + exported from there they were often classed as products of that + city.</p> + + <p>Moderately old Hamadans contain more camel’s hair than + any other class of rugs, since in very many of them it forms the + pile of both field and outer edging, where its soft tones of pale + chestnut colour contrast with the bright shades of blue, red, and + yellow yarn used in other parts of the field and border. This + lavish use of camel’s hair, the broad encircling edging, + the cotton warp, and a single thread of coarse weft passing once + between two rows of knots, distinguish them from all other + rugs.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally the + chestnut of camel’s hair with red and blue. <i>Knot</i>, + Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally, six to nine; + perpendicularly, eight to twelve. The rows of knots are firmly + pressed down. <i>Warp</i>, cotton; each of the two threads + encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back. <i>Weft</i>, + generally cotton, frequently wool; of coarse diameter. A thread + of weft crosses only once without slack between every two rows of + knots, so that the white spots of transverse cotton warp exposed + at back have a quincunx appearance. <i>Pile</i>, in old rugs, + mostly camel’s hair and some wool; in recent rugs, mostly + wool clipped short. <i>Border</i>, wide, generally of three or + four stripes, and a broad outer edging of camel’s hair. + <i>Sides</i>, overcast, generally in brown or red. <i>Lower + end</i>, a narrow web and warp loops. <i>Upper end</i>, a narrow + web turned back and hemmed. <i>Texture</i>, very firm. + <i>Weave</i>, at back is of moderately coarse grain. + <i>Length</i>, three to twenty-four feet. <i>Width</i>, two + fifths to three quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Irans.</span>—Although + neither a city nor district of Persia is called Iran, a + well-defined class of rugs is known to the trade by that name. + They are woven by some of the old Iranian stock dwelling + principally in the province of Irak-Ajemi. These people follow no + particular pattern or colour scheme of their own, but to a large + extent copy those of a few well-known Persian classes; yet in + other respects their rugs have a noticeable individuality. They + are woven with a Ghiordes knot and so loosely that if the rug be + observed from the front, as it is bent backward in a plane + parallel to the direction<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" + id="Page_125">125</a></span> of the weft, the foundation threads + of warp and weft, which are of cotton, will show distinctly + between the knots. Each of the two threads of warp encircled by a + single knot are equally prominent at the back. Ordinarily the + threads of weft cross twice between the rows of knots, but + occasionally they cross only once, as in Hamadans. Many of the + fabrics regarded as Sarabends, Feraghans, and even Hamadans are + in reality Irans, which on account of their inferior workmanship + are much less valuable.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally blue + and red, with minor quantities of ivory, yellow, green, and + brown. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally, six to + eleven; perpendicularly, seven to eleven. A half knot as it + appears at back is frequently longer, measured in the direction + of the length of the rug, than wide. The rows of knots are not + pressed down closely, so that the warp is noticeable at back. + <i>Warp</i>, cotton; each of the two threads encircled by a knot + is equally prominent at back; they are not closely strung, so + that each half knot stands out distinctly. <i>Weft</i>, cotton; a + thread of weft of coarse diameter as a rule crosses twice between + each two rows of knots, and only rarely crosses but once. The + weft is conspicuous between the knots at front when the rug is + bent backwards. <i>Pile</i>, wool of medium length. + <i>Border</i>, generally four to six stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a + heavy double overcasting that is generally brown or black, but + sometimes red. <i>Lower end</i>, a narrow web. <i>Upper end</i>, + a narrow web and loose warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, loose. + <i>Weave</i> at back is of coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, + five to ten feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two fifths to three + quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Sarouks.</span>—Towards + the western end of the Feraghan plain and at an altitude of + seventy-five hundred feet is the mud-walled village of Sarouk. + Here, shaded by poplars, are clustered one hundred and fifty + houses, with floors, roofs, and sides of mud that has dried and + cracked until it admits the wind. The sun and light enter through + the open doors, for there are no windows. Nor are there chimneys, + but simply openings between the rafters to permit the escape of + smoke from the open fireplace in the floor below and the entrance + of more wind. At times the atmosphere is not only oppressive with + smoke, but is laden with odours that arise from the pens beneath + and beside the houses, where fowls, sheep, and goats are huddled. + During the winter and early spring snow lies on the ground; a + little later a hot summer follows. Yet amid these de<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span>pressing + surroundings and under these adverse conditions lived weavers who + gave the name of their little village to some of the most + beautiful rugs made in all the East.</p> + + <p>Now and then is seen an old piece with surface like velvet and + with mellowed tones of perfect harmony that has come from these + huts or surrounding hills; but probably not one in a score, + perhaps not one in a hundred, of the Sarouks now offered for sale + in this country was woven there, as most of them are made in the + workhouses of larger cities, though they follow essentially the + general appearance and technique of old and genuine pieces, even + if lacking some of their best qualities. Nevertheless, the modern + pieces are of handsome colour, of graceful pattern, and are well + woven. Some of them, which were made two or three decades ago, + had large designs of the cypress, willow, or the tree of life, as + well as realistically drawn animals represented in the fields; + but the great majority of those now seen invariably follow a + pattern consisting of a large medallion with pendants, or of two + or more concentric medallions resting on the field, from which + are set off the four corners. Defining the edges of both + medallions and corners are lines that are most artistically + irregular, yet correspond with one another.</p> + + <p>Between each part is the greatest co-ordination, for the + designs of field, corners, medallions, and borders are similar. + On long delicate stems that bend and interlock like carved + tracery are leaves, buds, and flowers, suggesting the + craftsmanship of the best days of old Iran. The borders generally + have only three stripes: a broad main stripe on which appears an + elaborately drawn undulating vine with pendent flowers, and a + narrow guard stripe on each side. Sometimes the guards are + ornamented with only a simple vine, but more frequently with a + reciprocal pattern, which, however, is so well drawn as to + conflict in no wise with the harmony of the floral forms. In the + drawing of the borders the weavers exercise greater latitude than + in any other part of the rug; for occasionally they add a narrow + outer edging of dark colour, place the reciprocal figure next to + the innermost stripe as a fringe to the field, or increase the + number of stripes to seven. Rarely is the medallion wanting in + modern pieces, but now and then the pendants are replaced by + bunches of flowers, and in some pieces the corners extend along + the sides in undulating lines until they meet near the + centre.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p29" id="p29"></a><img src="images/plate29.jpg" + width="550" height="701" alt="Plate 29. Ghiordes Prayer Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 29. Ghiordes Prayer + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>All of these pieces are so closely woven that the fine bluish + weft is hardly discernible at the back. Very few other rugs have + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id= + "Page_127">127</a></span>such short-cut wool, which has a velvety + appearance, rendered more effective by the soft, rich colours + that are always in perfect harmony and excellent taste. As a rule + they are dark. Ever present in the ground colours are deep blues + and reds, suggestive of the hues of the so-called + “Ispahans;” while olives, delicate greens, and ivory + represent with consummate dignity of tone and design a lavish + tracery of leaves and foliage motives.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dark + blue and red, with minor quantities of green, olive, buff, and + ivory. <i>Knot</i>, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally twelve to + eighteen; perpendicularly, twelve to twenty. The rows of knots + are pressed down, so that the warp is concealed and the weft is + partly hidden at back. <i>Warp</i>, cotton, rarely linen; one of + the two threads encircled by a knot is almost always doubled + under the other; in a few pieces it is only depressed. + <i>Weft</i>, cotton, of small diameter, dyed blue. A thread of + weft of fine diameter crosses twice between every two rows of + knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, short and velvety. <i>Border</i>, + generally of three stripes but sometimes as many as seven. + Occasionally there is an outer edging of dark colour. + <i>Sides</i>, a tightly wound double overcasting of red, blue, or + black wool. <i>Both ends</i>, a narrow web, or web and short warp + fringe. <i>Texture</i>, very firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of + fine grain. <i>Length</i>, four to twelve feet. <i>Width</i>, two + thirds to three quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Kashans.</span>—Near the + centre of the province of Irak-Ajemi, on the ancient and + well-travelled highway between Ispahan and Teheran, is the city + of Kashan, from which, according to an old tradition, the three + Wise Men of the East followed the Star of Bethlehem. Like many of + the cities of Persia it is now largely in ruins; its homes are + infested with scorpions; for many months of the year the heat, + which in a measure is due to the proximity of the great salt + desert that extends far into Khorassan, is unendurable; yet in + spite of these inconveniences, for which perhaps familiarity has + in a measure lent contempt, forty thousand people live there. In + the past it has produced some of the greatest artists and + artisans of weaving. It was once the home of Maksoud, whom Shah + Ismael I ordered to weave the famous carpet of the Mosque of + Ardebil, which, ranking among the greatest woven products that + still exist, bears unmistakable evidence of the wonderful + technique and artistic skill then practised in Kashan. Without a + doubt other textile<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id= + "Page_128">128</a></span> masterpieces of the XVI and XVII + Centuries were woven there, for it would be unreasonable to + believe that the city where Maksoud had learned his art was not + at that time a prominent rug-producing centre.</p> + + <p>According to Persian tradition many of the antique silk + carpets came from Kashan. At any rate, it has been for a long + time customary to take the raw silk from other places to be spun + and dyed there. Some of it is woven into rugs, which are + considered among the best of modern pieces, though the demand for + them is small.</p> + + <p>On the other hand, the woollen pieces are now found in every + market, though it is only within recent years that they have been + generally known. Occasionally they are defined as a higher grade + of Sarouks, on account of the striking resemblance in texture, + colours, and designs; yet there are certain distinctions: the + warp is often linen, the nap is a little shorter, the texture + slightly firmer, and there are a great number of border stripes. + A feature that is more frequently found in these two classes than + in any other is the fringe of hooks or short comb-like teeth that + border the innermost stripe and extend into the field. Without + doubt Kashans are among the most perfect as well as the most + expensive woollen products of the modern Persian looms. Their + velvet-like surface and rich sheen give them an appearance that + to those unfamiliar with rugs seems like that of silken pieces. + The fine wool is dyed with rich, deep tones of blue, olive, red, + and brown; the perfectly balanced pattern is artistic as well as + ornate; and on account of the very short nap the drawing of each + minute detail is clear. In place of bold designs accentuated by + masses of colour are delicate tracings of floral and foliage + motives, of graceful arabesques and foliated stalks, so expressed + in rhythmic lines and harmonious tones as to give a sense of the + greatest refinement. Even though these rugs be modern and + chemically washed, their wealth of artistic workmanship and + exquisite colour make them exceedingly handsome.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dark + blue, red, and yellowish brown, with minor quantities of light + blue and green. <i>Knot</i>, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally + sixteen to twenty; perpendicularly, sixteen to twenty-four. The + rows of knots are firmly pressed down so that the warp is + concealed and the weft almost hidden at back. <i>Warp</i>, + generally cotton, rarely linen; one of the two threads encircled + by a knot is doubled under the other. <i>Weft</i>, generally + cotton, of small diameter, dyed blue; rarely linen. A<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span> thread + of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. + <i>Pile</i>, wool, very short and velvety. <i>Border</i>, + generally of seven stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a tightly wound double + overcasting in dark red, blue, or brown. <i>Lower end</i>, a + narrow web. <i>Upper end</i>, a narrow web and short warp fringe. + <i>Texture</i>, very firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of very fine + grain. <i>Usual length</i>, six to ten feet. <i>Usual width</i>, + three fifths to three quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class= + "smcap">Sababends.</span>—Standing on the top of lofty + Elwund, that rises on the boundary between the provinces of + Ardelan and Irak-Ajemi, in Northwestern Persia, one would see + within a radius of ninety miles as prolific a centre of rug + weaving as anywhere exists. Just within this distance to the + northwest are Sehna and Bijar, to the southeast is Sultanabad, to + the southwest is Kermanshah; and skirting the mountain on the + eastern side are the high plains where lie the districts of + Hamadan, Feraghan, and Sarawan, as well as the village of Sarouk + and less important centres of weaving.</p> + + <p>Among the valleys of the Sarawan district, that lies on the + northern flanks of mountain ranges extending as far as Ispahan, + are made the rugs which, by a corruption of the word Sarawan, are + known as the Sarabends. No other rugs of Persia have a pattern + that is so simple, and that for generations has been followed + with so little variation. Nor are there any other modern rugs + that have changed less from the old styles in respect to colour + and quality. The typical pattern of the field consists of rows of + pear designs arranged in transverse lines, with the smaller ends + pointing in different directions in alternate lines. The pears of + the field show great diversity of shape, but those of the borders + are long, narrow, and most angular; yet they never assume the + rectilinear figures found in Baku rugs. Only very rarely is there + any departure from this pattern; though in a few old pieces is an + adaptation of the Herati design, and now and then is seen a + geometric figure, or human form, or the date when the piece was + woven.</p> + + <p>The ground colour of the field may be blue, red, or white. If + blue, it is so largely covered with pinkish or rose-coloured + pears that the prevailing hue, when the pieces are viewed from a + distance, is light red. If, on the other hand, the field is red, + the pears are mostly blue; and if the field is ivory white, the + pears are red and blue. In all old pieces the blue has rich, deep + tones, the red has mellowed into soft rose or delicate pink, and + the white has turned<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id= + "Page_130">130</a></span> to ivory. This pleasing effect is + increased by shades of yellow and green, which are added to the + other colours of the pears.</p> + + <p>With few exceptions the borders have a large number of narrow + stripes, of which the central is about one third the aggregate + width. Its ground colour is ivory white, but the angular vine and + pendent, narrow pears have the same colours as those of the + field. On each side of it is usually a stripe with ground colour + corresponding to that of the field and with an undulating vine + and rosette. Almost invariably there is an outer stripe of + reciprocal trefoil in red and blue, which may be balanced by a + reciprocal sawtooth adjoining the field. It is not unusual to see + large pieces with two white stripes, and very rarely one is seen + with three.</p> + + <p>The best of these pieces are made in the town of Mirabad, + which signifies the “city of Mir,” and are + accordingly called Mir-Sarabends. They can be distinguished from + others, known to the trade as Royal Sarabends, by the fact that + in tying the knots the yarn is so twisted that one thread of warp + is doubled under the other; and in the latter each of the two + threads appear with equal prominence at the back. Neither of them + should ever be mistaken for Iran imitations, in which the pile is + of much looser texture and is tied with the Ghiordes knot. For + durability, there are very few modern pieces that will give the + satisfaction of Sarabends; for as a rule they are stoutly and + closely woven, and though there is monotony in the pattern, those + coloured with vegetable dyes will grow more beautiful with + age.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red + or blue, with minor quantities of ivory, yellow, and green. + <i>Knot</i>, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally eight to thirteen; + perpendicularly, nine to thirteen. The rows of knots are firmly + pressed down, so that the warp does not show at back. + <i>Warp</i>, cotton. In Mir-Sarabends one of the two threads + encircled by a knot is doubled under the other at back. In Royal + Sarabends each is equally prominent. <i>Weft</i>, cotton, of fine + diameter, and dyed red or blue. A thread of weft crosses twice + between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool of short or + medium length. <i>Border</i>, five to seven stripes, and + occasionally even more. <i>Sides</i>, a red double overcasting. + <i>Lower end</i>, a web, or web and short warp fringe. <i>Upper + end</i>, a web and short warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, firm. + <i>Weave</i> at back is of moderately fine grain. <i>Length</i>, + five to eighteen feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two fifths to two + thirds length.</p> + + <h4><i>COLOUR PLATE V—GHIORDES PRAYER RUG</i></h4> + + <p><i>Only now and then is seen a prayer Ghiordes that represents + such a high type of artistic skill. The weaving follows more + closely the fine technique of the Persian than that of the Asia + Minor weaver. Yet it is the drawing and colouring that claim + attention. The delicate tracery of the spandrel, the minute + delineation of tendril and leaf in the border, and the perfect + balance of every part of one side with a corresponding part in + the other, resemble the finest workmanship of old Iran. Not only + so, but the beautiful border pattern of rosette and leaf is so + suggestive of the well-known Herati design that it seems not + improbable that here is shown the influence of those Persian + weavers that Solyman the Magnificent took with him to Asia Minor + after his capture of Tabriz. The colour also displays dainty + tones and careful shading found in no other class of Asia Minor + rugs. Such pieces are usually regarded as products of the XVI + Century.</i></p> + + <p class="name"><i>Property of the Author</i></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pv" id="pv"></a><img src="images/plate_v.jpg" width="550" height="698" alt="COLOUR PLATE V--GHIORDES PRAYER RUG" title="" /> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id= + "Page_131">131</a></span></p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Burujirds</span>.—About + sixty miles to the west of Sultanabad and forty to the south of + the Sarawan district is the city of Burujird. It is in a rich, + well-watered valley and is surrounded by numerous hamlets. Most + of the population are engaged in agriculture; and only a small + part, who are stimulated by the increased prices occasioned by + the rug industry of Sultanabad, are weavers. They produce pieces + that resemble closely the Sarabend rugs, as the field is + generally occupied with pear designs; but on account of the + Ghiordes knot and cotton warp and weft, they might be mistaken + for Iran rugs.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class= + "smcap">Sultanabads</span>.—Southeastward from the plain of + Feraghan is the city of Sultanabad, which in recent years has + become important as the centre of a great rug industry controlled + by Europeans and Americans. Higher prices, resulting from the + constantly increasing Western demand for Persian rugs, have + stimulated the native weavers to more persistent efforts. Those + who are too poor to purchase wool and dyes<a name="FNanchor_24" + id="FNanchor_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24" class= + "fnanchor">24</a> are supplied by the companies. Others, who are + more dependent, are paid regular wages. Thus it happens that not + only large numbers of looms are constantly at work in the city, + but a hundred hamlets and villages that lie within a day’s + journey produce rugs that are marketed there. But while the + output has been increased the true artistic spirit has been + suppressed, and patterns favoured or supplied by foreign + purchasers only are in demand. Most of the rugs are well woven, + though there is a difference in grades. Some take the name of the + city, others are called Savalans, from a range of mountains that + lie to the north, and others are known as Mahals. Most of them + are large pieces, rather coarsely woven.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Muskabads</span>.—In the + district of Muskabad, a short distance to the northwest of + Sultanabad, are produced rugs very similar to the Mahals. They + come in the same large carpet sizes and nearly square shapes; + they have almost the same harmonious colour scheme of unobtrusive + red, yellow, blue, green, and ivory; they have the same cotton + warp and weft, the same finish of sides and ends; but as a rule + they are less closely woven. The patterns are varied. + Occasionally they have large figures such as are seen in + Gorevans, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id= + "Page_132">132</a></span> though these are more usual in Mahals. + In some of them the field is covered with conventionalised leaf + and floral form. But the usual type has two or more concentric + medallions of different colours covered with the small Herati + designs so distinctive of the Feraghans. When such is the case, + the border has usually the turtle pattern in the main stripe and + some stiffly drawn vine and floral pattern in the smaller + stripes. But the velvety appearance, the elegant finish of old + Feraghans, is always lacking. The nap is of soft wool of medium + length, but the surface of the back displays coarse texture. + These pieces lack the artistic qualities of most Persian rugs; + but on account of their excellent quality of material and + stoutness of weave they are very serviceable.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + blue, and ivory, with minor quantities of green and brown. + <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes or Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally seven + to fourteen; perpendicularly, eight to twelve. The rows of knots + are not firmly pressed down. <i>Warp</i>, cotton; one of the two + threads encircled by a knot is generally depressed at back, and + frequently nearly doubled under the other. <i>Weft</i>, cotton, + of medium to coarse diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice + between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium + length. <i>Border</i>, three to five stripes, with a narrow outer + edging. <i>Sides</i>, a double overcasting. <i>Lower end</i>, a + very narrow web and short warp fringe. <i>Upper end</i>, short + warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, moderately firm. <i>Weave</i> at + back is of very coarse grain. <i>Length</i>, ten to eighteen + feet. <i>Width</i>, two thirds to seven eighths length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Joshaghans</span>.—Lying + to the southeast of Sultanabad and to the north of Ispahan is a + district where a century ago were woven some of the best carpets + of Persia, known as Joshaghans or Djushghans. Even long before + then it was noted for its textile fabrics; but during the reign + of Nadir Shah, who removed many of the best artisans from the + central to the northwestern part of Persia, the carpet weaving + received a new impulse, and continued to flourish there until + nearly the middle of the last century. Since that time it has + almost ceased, so that the genuine Joshaghans of rich, deep + colour and skilfully drawn pattern are all sixty or more years of + age. They may still be found scattered throughout the country, + and should be carefully preserved; for they merit the high esteem + accorded to them by the Persians themselves.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p30" id="p30"></a><img src="images/plate30.jpg" + width="500" height="789" alt="Plate 30. Ghiordes Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 30. Ghiordes + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>In a few of these pieces are seen the Shah Abbas pattern. In + other <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id= + "Page_133">133</a></span>pieces the field is covered with + scrolls, or with a lattice-work pattern in which small floral + forms are the motives. Again it is occupied by pear designs + encircled by small rounded figures, which combined form the + outlines of a larger pear, while in the intervening spaces are + small floral forms. The principal border stripe generally + consists of floral designs, which not infrequently are some form + of the Herati pattern. The secondary stripes often contain floral + vines.</p> + + <p>Whatever the pattern of the field, the effect is always + striking and beautiful; for the lines are never harsh, and the + colours are rich. The ground is very frequently a rose tint, but + is sometimes dark blue; and the overlying designs are rose, + yellow, green, and ivory. The colours of the border are generally + the same as those of the smaller designs, so that the effect is + always harmonious. These rugs are excellently woven; and the soft + lustrous wool of the pile, which is usually longer than that of + Sarabends and Feraghans, has often an appearance like plush.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red + and blue, with lesser quantities of yellow, green, brown, and + ivory. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally seven to + eleven; perpendicularly, eight to thirteen. The rows of knots are + not always firmly pressed down, so that the warp may be seen at + back. <i>Warp</i>, usually cotton, occasionally wool; one of the + two threads encircled by a knot is usually depressed below the + other at the back. <i>Weft</i>, wool, sometimes dyed red, brown, + or reddish brown, but frequently of natural colour. A thread of + weft generally crosses twice, but sometimes three times between + every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool of short or medium + length. <i>Border</i>, usually three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a + double overcasting that is generally brown or black. <i>Lower + end</i>, a web. <i>Upper end</i>, a web and warp fringe. + <i>Texture</i>, moderately firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of + moderately fine grain. <i>Usual length</i>, eight to sixteen + feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two fifths to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Sehnas.</span>—Seldom has + prophecy been more precisely fulfilled than the one made a decade + ago that the old Persian rugs would rapidly disappear from the + market. Nor is it better exemplified than in the case of those + woven before the middle of the last century in Sehna, capital of + Ardelan, for to-day it is exceedingly difficult to obtain any of + them. Nevertheless, there are still many looms among the four or + five thousand families of the city, where true to early + traditions are woven modern fabrics that maintain the + same<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id= + "Page_134">134</a></span> floral Persian patterns, the same + colour, the same general character of weave; but they lack the + fine technique of the older pieces. It is, indeed, surprising + that these modern pieces so closely resemble the old in all save + quality, when it is considered that Sehna is distant only fifty + miles from the western border of Persia; that it is surrounded by + Kurdish tribes who for generations have woven rugs with nomadic + features; and that it is not far distant from other important rug + centres.</p> + + <p>To one familiar with the leading characteristics it is + possible at once to distinguish these rugs. Their nap is + exceedingly short, and the weave is so distinctive that with eyes + closed an expert will generally recognise them after rubbing the + hand across the front and back. Their patterns, also, conform to + well-established types, yet have sufficient variety to be always + interesting. They may be conveniently divided into two groups: + one represents the entire field covered with floral designs, and + the other represents a field of uniform colour with a medallion + at the centre, or with two or more concentric medallions. The + former, which is undoubtedly the older group, has generally a + small diaper pattern of the Herati design or floral figures + daintily drawn. To obviate too great monotony, a number of the + old pieces have the leaves and flowers so adjusted that the + ground conveys the effect of lattice work, or less often have + small trees of cypress regularly placed amid the other floral + designs. Again, the field may be covered with large pear designs + placed in rows. Of modern pieces the most beautiful pattern, as a + rule, consists of a field of rich, uniform colour, as ivory or + red, containing at its centre a single medallion of contrasting + ground colour, which is generally dark blue or even black. The + four corners of the field have serrated edges and are covered + with floral designs similar to those of the medallion. The + borders, which are invariably narrow, usually consist of three + stripes, but sometimes of only two. With very few exceptions they + are floral, and in the main one, that has a ground colour of + yellow or red, are represented designs which are also similar to + those of the medallion. Some of the old Sehnas had borders that + were less floral than more modern pieces, and the turtle design + so common to Feraghans was often used. Isolated and adventitious + designs, such as are seen in all nomadic rugs, are never found in + these pieces, nor are the floriated scrolls that are peculiar to + Sarouks, Kashans, and Kermanshahs.</p> + + <p>As is seldom the case with modern rugs, occasionally both + linen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id= + "Page_135">135</a></span> and silk are used for the warp, and + silk for overcasting, but generally the warp is cotton and the + overcasting is of wool. The city of Sehna has given its name to + the kind of knot with which almost all the rugs of China and + Turkestan as well as many of the rugs of India and Persia are + tied; yet strange as it may seem, its own weavers have been + inconsistent in its use. To be sure, most of its rugs have the + Sehna knot, but a surprisingly large proportion of both recent + and comparatively old pieces have the Ghiordes knot. Only a few + other rugs ever adopt the same style of weaving; for a thread of + weft passes between two rows of knots but once, so that at the + back only alternate threads of white cotton warp appear between + these knots and thus give to the weave a checkered appearance or + quincunx effect. Moreover, the yarn of the knots is not drawn + tightly against the warp, so that in whatever direction the hand + is rubbed the surface feels like a file. Very few other rugs are + so closely woven, as four hundred knots to the square inch are + not uncommon; and in very old pieces nearly double that number + are now and then met with. Since both warp and weft are of fine + threads and the nap is very short, these rugs are exceedingly + thin and, accordingly, are not well adapted for floor use.</p> + + <p>Some old saddle-bags are still to be found, rich in their + fields of deep blues and floral forms of brighter tones, but + unfortunately they are somewhat marred by the long slit in the + centre made to fit the saddle.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dark + blue, red, and ivory, with lesser quantities of green, light + blue, and yellow. <i>Knot</i>, Sehna, often Ghiordes. Knots to + inch horizontally eleven to twenty; perpendicularly, twelve to + twenty-four. The rows of knots are closely pressed down, but the + yarn of knots is not drawn tight against the warp. <i>Warp</i>, + generally cotton, occasionally linen, rarely silk. Each of the + two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back. + <i>Weft</i>, generally cotton, occasionally wool or linen, rarely + silk. A single thread of small diameter crosses only once between + every two rows of knots, so that the white spots of transverse + warp exposed at back have a quincunx appearance. <i>Pile</i>, + wool clipped very short. <i>Border</i>, three stripes. + <i>Sides</i>, a tightly wound double overcasting. <i>Lower + end</i>, a short web, or web and warp loops, or web and short + warp fringe. <i>Upper end</i>, short web and fringe. + <i>Texture</i>, very firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of fine grain + but very rough. <i>Length</i>, three to seven feet. <i>Width</i>, + two thirds to three quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id= + "Page_136">136</a></span><span class= + "smcap">Bijars.</span>—One hundred miles beyond Hamadan, on + the road to Tabriz, is the city of Bijar, capital of the district + of Gehrous. It is surrounded by barren mountains that rise out of + high table-lands, where for miles scarcely a habitation or bush + breaks the monotony, and where not even a blade of grass or + flower brightens the cracked and sun-parched earth, except for a + short season of the year. As is the case throughout nearly all + Persia, the spirit of desolation has crept into the city; the + grapevine climbs over ruined walls; the shade of poplars and + willows falls alike on decaying palace and crumbling houses. Yet + there still remain caravansaries, schools, and mosques, as well + as a population of five thousand people. Without doubt the + importance of the city is partly due to the regiment of soldiers + that the governor maintains to keep in subjection the bands of + robbers and fierce Kurds who, in large numbers, live throughout + the surrounding country. Nor are they the only tribes of fierce + foreign blood dwelling in this region; for it is stated that + during the invasions of the Timurids, a body of Turkomans from + the fortress town of old Saraks, where the corners of Persia and + Afghanistan meet Turkestan, followed the conqueror westward and + settled here. After them is named a small river that flows a + short distance to the north and finally empties into Lake + Urumiah; and it is not unusual to apply the name Saraks to the + rugs woven about Bijar, though they have none of the Turkoman + characteristics.</p> + + <p>By adopting some of the best qualities of both Persian and + Kurdish rugs, the Bijar weavers have produced pieces of unusual + merit. The foundation is generally of wool; but unlike almost all + other rugs with nomadic features one thread of warp to each knot + is doubled beneath the other in the process of weaving, so that + it is almost or entirely concealed. Bijars are accordingly pieces + of great firmness and durability. Moreover, their threads of warp + and weft are of coarse diameter, so that they are invariably + thick even when the nap is not long. They are also distinctive in + the effective massing of bright and strong colours. Perhaps the + association with ranges of treeless hills, with salt wastes, with + vast plains where rainless months leave the grass parched and the + flowers withered, has deadened the Persian love for the + brilliant, joyous colours so acutely cherished in other parts of + Asia; but by the weavers of Bijar it is not unusual to discard + many of the Persian colours, which, however rich, are subdued and + sombre, and adopt the brighter hues <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span>seen in + some of the rugs of Asia Minor. Yet, as is not always the case + with the latter, there is no sense of outraged taste; and though + crimson reds, deep blues, or tawny camel’s hair be brought + in relief against a field of strongly contrasting colour, the + effect, except in modern pieces of poor dyes, is never + displeasing.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p31" id="p31"></a><img src="images/plate31.jpg" + width="550" height="788" alt="Plate 31. Kulah Prayer Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 31. Kulah Prayer + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>In the pattern much latitude is exercised, but only in the + oldest pieces are found the gracefully flowing lines suggestive + of the highest Persian art. In many pieces a central medallion + and triangular-shaped corners, separated by a field of plain or + slightly shaded colour, is a favourite pattern. But the defining + lines are severe, and lack the delicate drawing characteristic of + Kermanshahs and Sarouks. Or the field may be covered with a + lattice-work pattern that contains small repetitive forms, + consisting of slender stems supporting one or more flowers. + Frequently a rug is covered with a medley of designs composed of + conventionalised flowers, crudely drawn trees, as well as birds, + animals, or human beings. The borders generally consist of an + outer edging of plain colour, and three stripes, on which are + often represented purely geometric forms, but more frequently the + undulating vine and pendent leaves, such as are common to most + Persian rugs. Fortunately many sterling pieces still remain that + have none of the earmarks of factory-made rugs, but are beautiful + with their soft wool and lustrous colours, as well as interesting + with their blending of Persian and Kurdish features.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + also blue, ivory, green, yellow, and chocolate. <i>Knot</i>, + Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally six to ten; perpendicularly, + eight to twelve. The rows of knots are pressed down, so that the + warp is concealed at back and the weft partly hidden. + <i>Warp</i>, wool; one of the two threads encircled by a knot is + doubled under the other. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of medium or coarse + diameter, frequently dyed red. A thread of weft crosses twice + between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, of medium length, + usually wool, but frequently partly of camel’s hair. + <i>Border</i>, of three stripes, often with an outer edging. + <i>Sides</i>, a double overcasting in red or purple. <i>Lower + end</i>, a web that is occasionally coloured or a narrow braided + selvage. <i>Upper end</i>, a web with loose warp fringe and + sometimes a braided selvage. The webbing is occasionally turned + back and hemmed. <i>Texture</i>, very firm. <i>Weave</i> at back + is of coarse grain. <i>Length</i>, six to sixteen feet. + <i>Width</i>, one quarter to three fifths length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id= + "Page_138">138</a></span><span class= + "smcap">Kermanshahs.</span>—On an ancient highway between + Bagdad and Teheran is the city of Kermanshah. As it is situated + near the frontiers of northwestern Persia, facing the Turkish + provinces, and is surrounded by mountains where once wandered + bands of homeless marauding Kurds who recognised no government, + it was formerly a most important stronghold of defence. A century + ago Robert Kerr Porter, who visited the city, referred to the + luxurious gardens and orchards that surrounded it, and to the + villages of the vicinity in which were made “carpets of + most beautiful colour and fabric.” Within later years the + moat has filled with rubbish, the encircling walls have crumbled, + and the deserted bazaars and caravansaries show that its present + population of about twelve thousand is but a small part of what + it has been. With its decline in political importance followed a + decline in industrial activities; yet for a long time it remained + a rug-producing centre of importance. In 1880 Sir George Birdwood + wrote that “the finest Oriental rugs of our time, which at + the Vienna Exhibition astonished all beholders, are those made in + the palace of the Governor of Kermanshah, in Kurdistan, and are + only disposed of as presents.”<a name="FNanchor_25" id= + "FNanchor_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">25</a> + And in 1890 a traveller<a name="FNanchor_26" id= + "FNanchor_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">26</a> + spoke of the weaving as follows: “It is a process carried + on in homes, hovels, and tents by women and children.... The + vegetable dyes used are soft and artistic, especially a wonderful + red and the various shades of indigo. The dull, rich tints, even + when new, are quite beautiful. The women pursue their work + chiefly in odds and ends of time, and in some cases make it much + of a pastime.”</p> + + <p>From this city and the surrounding hills are still obtained + large quantities of rugs, which follow the same patterns that for + years have been characteristic of this district. Yet most of the + modern Kermanshahs are made elsewhere in the workhouses of + exporting companies. So noticeable is the resemblance in drawing + and colouring of some of them to the Kirmans of Southeastern + Persia, that they are offered now and then by dealers as real + Kirmans, though they lack the fine technique and artistic merit + of the latter. They possess, however, the same wealth of floral + expression, for throughout border and field are sprays of flowers + on delicate vines and foliate stalks. Most of the pieces now seen + contain at the centre of the field a large medallion, which may + have serrated or lobed edges, be oval or of diamond shape, and + with or without pendants. The corners are</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id= + "Page_139">139</a></span></p> + + <p>defined by lines that do not always conform to those of the + medallion; and the borders have always several stripes, of which + the main one is usually but little wider than the others. In all + these different parts are floral and foliage motives that find + expression in sunflowers, roses, tulips, daisies, and many + simpler forms, supported by delicate branching sprays and + vines.</p> + + <p>There are, however, other patterns less frequently met with, + as it is not unusual to see elaborate pear designs, and sometimes + the cypress or the palm tree naturalistically drawn. Covering the + field of a rare old Kermanshah recently seen were thirty large + panels, which like so many small rugs contained central fields + that were alternately coloured blue and ivory. Surrounding each + of these little fields, on which were represented the arch of a + temple and the tree of life, were borders wherein were woven + verses from the Koran, and at the intersections of the borders + were floral designs like roses. Encircling all the panels was a + wide border containing escutcheons in which were woven other + verses. Without doubt this rug was used for sacred purposes. In + fact, a larger proportion of Kermanshahs than almost any other + Persian rugs have prayer arches as well as verses from the Koran + inscribed in some part of them, but with very few exceptions they + are recently woven and bear no evidence of devotional usage.</p> + + <p>The general colour scheme is distinctive, for the tones are + much lighter than those of most other Persian rugs. Frequently a + field of ivory surrounds the central medallion, though sometimes + a light rose red is used. Other colours are light blue, green, + and buff, which are softened by the floccy quality of the + excellent and moderately short-clipped wool. One feature common + to almost all of them is the narrow edging of pinkish red that + surrounds the border. This edging, the foliate scrolls, the soft + light tones, and the rather coarse weaving, that leaves the white + or sometimes pinkish weft exposed at the back, are + characteristics by which these rugs may readily be distinguished. + As they come in all sizes from small mats to large carpets, and + have tones that harmonise with almost any surroundings, they are + a most popular class with those who care little for association + and ignore the fact that they are chemically washed.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally light + rose and ivory, also blue, green, and buff. <i>Knot</i>, Sehna. + Knots to inch horizontally twelve to eighteen, perpendicularly + eleven to eighteen. The rows<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span> of knots are pressed + down, so that the warp is concealed at back, but the weft is + conspicuous. <i>Warp</i>, cotton; one of the two threads + encircled by a knot is doubled under the other. <i>Weft</i>, + cotton, of medium diameter, sometimes dyed pink. A thread of weft + crosses twice between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, + soft and of medium length. <i>Border</i>, frequently of three + stripes of almost equal width, but sometimes many stripes; also + an outer edging that is generally red, but occasionally blue. + <i>Sides</i>, a double overcasting in same colour as edging. + <i>Lower end</i>, a narrow web and warp loops, or short warp + fringe. <i>Upper end</i>, a narrow web and short warp fringe. + <i>Texture</i>, firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of moderately + coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, four to fourteen feet. + <i>Usual width</i>, three fifths to four fifths length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Western + Kurdistans.</span>—Within the land lying between the + Anti-Taurus and Zagros mountains, where the Euphrates and Tigris + rivers have their sources, dwell a people almost as untamed as + when in the dawn of history they were designated the + “Warriors;” or centuries later, under the name + “Carduchis,” opposed the retreat of Xenophon and his + ten thousand Greeks. Now they are known as “Kurds,” + of whom large numbers, wild, brave, and hospitable, live a + nomadic life among table-lands partly covered with sycamores and + oaks, or follow their sheep over lofty pine-crowned mountains, + that for long months are enveloped in snow. Doubtless the + cheering influence of green hillsides and the rich vegetation of + innumerable valleys, where streams flow perennially, is in a + measure responsible for their more sprightly aspect when + contrasted with that of the Persians. They recognise no law but + the will of their chief, to whom they maintain strictest fealty. + “There was up to a recent period no more picturesque or + interesting scene to be witnessed in the East than the court of + one of these great Kurdish chiefs, where, like another Saladin, + the bey ruled in patriarchial state, surrounded by his clansmen + with reverence and affection, and attended by a body-guard of + young Kurdish warriors, clad in chain armor, with flaunting + silken scarfs, and bearing javelin, lance, and sword, as in the + time of the Crusades.”<a name="FNanchor_27" id= + "FNanchor_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27" class= + "fnanchor">27</a></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p32" id="p32"></a><img src="images/plate32.jpg" + width="550" height="880" alt="Plate 32. Melez Prayer Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 32. Melez Prayer + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>Large numbers, also, are settled in Persia, where they + cultivate the soil of small tracts of land, or live in villages + of stone houses. Many of them are scattered around Lake Urumiah. + Others have made their homes in the district of Kermanshah, and + not a few have <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id= + "Page_141">141</a></span>wandered as far as Khorassan. But + wherever they may be, they are distinguished by their appearance; + for the men are bold and handsome, and the young women, whom + custom permits to appear unveiled in public, are beautiful as + well as graceful.</p> + + <p>There is no racial distinction between the Kurds who live the + pastoral life and those who dwell in villages, or between the + Kurds of Asiatic Turkey and those of Persia; yet environment has + produced a marked difference in their textile fabrics. Those + woven by the tribes that live among the mountains that encircle + Lake Van and extend to the north of Diarbekr embody the wild + characteristics of the weavers. They are strong and coarse, with + close weave, long nap, and bold patterns, that suggest Caucasian + influence devoid of artistic feeling. In some of them is a large + central diamond or lozenge surrounded by latch-hooks, as well as + floral forms so conventionalised as to be purely geometric; now + and then Arabic symbols and letters are scattered over the field. + Moreover, the colours lack the delicate shades of Persian rugs, + but possess rich, strong hues obtained from native dyes that + applied to the excellent wool give it a warm, lustrous + appearance. Brown is very largely used. There are also dark reds + and blues brightened by dashes of white and yellow. Only the + Kazaks, Tcherkess, and one or two Asia Minor weaves are trimmed + with such long nap, which, together with the deep colours and + long shaggy fringe, give these pieces a semi-barbaric appearance + possessed by no other rugs. Sometimes they are confused with the + Mosuls; but as a rule the pile is longer, and they are more + coarsely woven. In fact, the yarn is so coarse that it is not + unusual to see pieces with only thirty or forty knots to the + square inch. Like the Persian-Kurdish rugs, they rarely come in + large, almost square shapes, and are frequently decidedly oblong. + They may, however, easily be distinguished from them by their + cruder patterns, darker colours, coarser texture, and the fact + that each of the two threads of warp encircled by a knot is + equally prominent at the back.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally + brown, red, and blue, with minor quantities of yellow, green, and + white, and the natural colour of the undyed wool. <i>Knot</i>, + Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally four to seven; + perpendicularly, six to nine. A half knot, as it appears at back, + is as long as, or longer than, wide. The rows of knots are + closely pressed down. <i>Warp</i>, wool; each of the two threads + encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back. + <i>Weft</i>,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id= + "Page_142">142</a></span> wool, of coarse diameter, and often + dyed a reddish colour. A thread of weft crosses twice between + every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, occasionally + camel’s or goat’s hair clipped long. <i>Border</i>, + generally of three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a heavy double + overcasting, usually in brown or black, occasionally in several + different colours. <i>Lower end</i>, a narrow web, through which + runs a coloured cord, and warp loops. <i>Upper end</i>, a narrow + web, one or more rows of knots and long, coarse warp fringe. + <i>Texture</i>, very stout. <i>Weave</i> at back is of very + coarse grain. <i>Length</i>, five to sixteen feet. <i>Width</i>, + two fifths to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Persian + Kurdistans.</span>—Nowhere is the influence of association + among weavers more evident than in the Kurdish rugs woven by the + tribes settled in the rich valleys of Northwestern Persia, as is + apparent in weave, colours, and pattern, which differ widely from + those seen in the Kurdish rugs of Asiatic Turkey. The warp is + only rarely of coarse goats’ hair, and is generally soft, + brown wool. The pile is much shorter, so that the drawing is + clearly defined. Likewise, the colours are more varied and of + more delicate tones so as to include lighter shades of green, + rose, and ivory with the darker reds, blues, and browns. But the + chief distinction consists of the more artistic pattern. The + medallion in the centre of the field with corner pieces in which + appear some form of repetitive pattern is most common. Instead of + large figures are often the more dainty Herati designs borrowed + from the Feraghans and the Sehnas, or the pear design from the + Sarabends. Now and then is seen a rare old piece with field + completely covered with drawings of the tree of life and strange + floral conceits; but the pattern that is pre-eminently typical of + this type of Kurdish pieces is the Mina Khani, though it is + occasionally adopted in other rugs. The white and yellowish + flowers, connected by a lattice work sub-pattern of brown or + olive, rests on a ground of dark blue, that in accordance with a + feature peculiar to rugs of Kurdish weaves varies from one end of + the field to the other, so as to suggest that their wandering + life often made it difficult to obtain the roots and herbs + necessary to produce similar shades. As is rarely the case with + other patterns, the naturalistic flowers that are pendent from + the undulating vine of the main stripe and the flowers of the + field have nearly the same drawing. The two remaining stripes of + the narrow border have most simple vines.</p> + + <p>Almost without exception rugs of this class are stoutly + woven.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id= + "Page_143">143</a></span> To assure firmness, one thread of warp + is depressed below the other in tying the knots; and the weft + that is thrown across for filling is of fair quality. On account + of the firm texture, excellent wool, and good colours it is still + possible to obtain moderately old pieces, that as objects of + utility as well as ornament are desirable for their sterling + qualities.</p> + + <p>A similarity exists between the Persian-Kurdish, Mosul, and + Bijar rugs; but a precise, even if easily overlooked, difference + in the weave serves to distinguish one from the other. As may be + seen by examining the backs of typical specimens, in Mosuls every + thread of warp lies in the same plane parallel with the surface + of the pile; in the Persian Kurdistans one of the two threads of + warp encircled by a knot is depressed at an acute angle to that + plane; and in Bijars one of the two threads of warp encircled by + a knot is doubled under the other so as to be at right angles to + that plane.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red + and blue, also yellow, green, and white. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. + Knots to inch horizontally seven to ten; perpendicularly, eight + to twelve. A half knot, as it appears at back, is no longer than + wide and is frequently not so long. The yarn is loosely woven, so + that each separate ply is distinct. The rows of knots are pressed + down, so that the warp is largely concealed and the weft partly + hidden at back. <i>Warp</i>, wool; one of the two threads + encircled by a knot is generally much depressed below the other + at back; but sometimes each is equally prominent. <i>Weft</i>, + wool, of medium diameter. A thread of weft usually crosses twice + between every two rows of knots, only rarely once. <i>Pile</i>, + wool, and occasionally some camel’s hair of medium length. + <i>Border</i>, three to four stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a heavy + double overcasting in dark colour. <i>Lower end</i>, web crossed + by a parti-coloured cord, and warp loops. <i>Upper end</i>, web + crossed by a parti-coloured cord, and loose warp fringe. + <i>Texture</i>, very firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of coarse + grain. <i>Usual length</i>, six to twelve feet. <i>Usual + width</i>, five eighths to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Karajes.</span>—Dwelling + near Hamadan, in the northwestern part of Persia, are tribes who + weave rugs that are known in the markets as Karajes. In their + colour scheme, length of nap, and texture they resemble many of + the Kurdistans; but in the technicalities of weave they show a + marked difference. As a rule, a single thread of weft crosses + only once between two rows of knots, or in a few pieces + two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id= + "Page_144">144</a></span> threads of weft pass side by side as + though one. In this particular they resemble Hamadans; but the + alignment of their knots at the back is more regular, their weft + is inserted with some slack, their warp is of wool, and their + weft is almost always of wool. They are generally runners, with + long nap of soft, lustrous wool, with rich colours, and with + border of three stripes. The pattern is Iranian, and very often + consists of a small bush or sprig of leaf and flower disposed in + formal array throughout the field. Sometimes the floral forms are + placed within the diamonds formed by a trellis pattern, but more + frequently they are arranged in rows like the pear designs of + Sarabends. In some pieces they are very much conventionalised and + suggest similar figures seen in rugs of Southern Caucasia; and in + others stem, leaf, and flower are very realistic. Another pattern + frequently followed consists of three or four large + diamond-shaped medallions extending from one end of the field to + the other. The borders are moderately narrow, and an undulating + vine of well-known Persian character generally appears in one or + more of the stripes. As these pieces are almost always + comparatively old, the vegetable dyes that were used for + colouring have mellowed, and have a richness of tone that is + accentuated by the depth of pile and softness of wool. The + prevailing tone of many is a deep plum colour.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dark + blue or plum and red, with minor quantities of yellow, brown, and + white. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally six to + twelve; perpendicularly, seven to twelve. A half knot, as it + appears at back, is as long as wide, and occasionally is longer. + The rows of knots, which have even alignment at back, are not + firmly pressed down. <i>Warp</i>, wool, rarely cotton; each of + the two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back. + <i>Weft</i>, wool, rarely cotton; a single thread of medium + diameter crosses once between every two rows of knots; but in + parts of the same rug two, three, or even four threads of small + diameter will cross side by side as a single coarse thread. + Occasionally a thread of weft crosses three or four times. The + filling of weft stands up as high as the knots at the back, + giving an even surface. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium length or + moderately long. <i>Border</i>, of three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a + heavy double overcasting. <i>Lower end</i>, web and warp loops. + <i>Upper end</i>, web and short fringe. <i>Texture</i>, + moderately loose. <i>Weave</i> at back is of coarse grain. + <i>Usual length</i>, eight to fourteen feet. <i>Usual width</i>, + three eighths to one half length.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p33" id="p33"></a><img src="images/plate33.jpg" + width="550" height="868" alt="Plate 33. Melez Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 33. Melez + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id= + "Page_145">145</a></span></p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Tabriz.</span>—Although + Tabriz, capital of the province of Azerbijan, is situated in a + remote corner of Persia, from the earliest times it has been one + of the most important centres in the Orient for the production of + carpets. They were well known in the days of the Caliphs; and + some of the earliest masterpieces that now remain were woven + there during the reign of Shah Tamasp, who extended to this + industry his royal patronage. This city has been for a long + period on the great routes of caravans passing to Trebizond and + Tiflis from the country to the south and east, so that it has + become the principal mart of Persia for the export of rugs + gathered from surrounding regions. Nevertheless, it still + continues to produce its own pieces; but the weavers are in the + employ of foreign companies who prescribe the character of + workmanship. As a consequence, the rugs are of good material, + excellently woven; and though many of the old dyes are no longer + used, the colours as a rule are fair; yet on account of the + mathematical exactness of their formal patterns the truly + Oriental spirit is largely lacking.</p> + + <p>Since the rugs are made solely to meet the requirements of + Western buyers, the patterns are various. Most of them consist of + a large central medallion surrounded by a broad field of ivory, + blue, or red that extends to the sides and ends. In others, a + small diamond occupies the centre and is surrounded by a series + of concentric medallions. Although in these respects they + correspond with Kermanshahs, Sarouks, and Kashans, the patterns + of their fields lack the long scrolls and interlacing branches, + and consist frequently of short, slender stems supporting fronds, + leaves, flowers, or the pear designs arranged so as to present + almost the appearance of lace-work. Sometimes the drawing is a + delicate tracery representing intertwining arabesques. A field + completely covered with the small designs peculiar to Sehnas, or + containing the disjunct forms of nomadic rugs, is never seen; and + yet it is not improbable that many of the early Tabriz weavers + were Kurds. Sometimes the flowers are similar to the roses of + Kirmans, or are realistically drawn compositæ surrounded by + delicate leaves on graceful stems; some times the small designs + are as formal as the palmettes of old Ispahans, from which they + were doubtless copied; again, the naturalistic and conventional + may be blended together in an harmonious whole. But whatever the + pattern, the different parts show the perfect balance so + frequently seen in the antique pieces of three or four centuries + ago. Nevertheless, to these types are many excep<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span>tions, + since the weavers will produce for hire any class of rug or copy + any coloured drawing.</p> + + <p>The borders differ from those of Kermanshahs, with which these + rugs are frequently compared, in the fact that in their central + stripe the continuous vine of leaf and flower is less + conspicuous; and in its place are often palmettes, pears, shrubs, + or formal trees separated by foliated scrolls. Not infrequently + the smaller stripes, also, have a repetitive pattern of leaf and + flower, though in some of the many stripes is usually a + well-drawn vine. Again, the border may consist of a series of + cartouches that have been copied from much older rugs and contain + verses of the Koran or of Persian poets. Within recent years this + tendency among the Tabriz and Kermanshah weavers to imitate not + only borders but also fields of old masterpieces is + increasing.</p> + + <p>A feature peculiar to a very large number of these rugs is the + adoption of very finely spun linen for the warp; though cotton, + which is used for the weft, is sometimes substituted. The knots + are carefully tied, and the closely woven texture presents an + appearance at the back similar to that of Sarouks; but the almost + concealed weft is generally either white or pink. The weave + compared with that of Kermanshahs is finer, but the wool of the + closely shorn nap is neither so soft to the touch nor so silky, + the colours are harsher, and the patterns more formal. These rugs + are made in all sizes, though most are large and almost + square.</p> + + <p><i>Type characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + blue, and ivory. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch + horizontally twelve to twenty; perpendicularly, ten to + twenty-two. The rows of knots are pressed down, so that the warp + is hidden and the weft partly concealed at back. <i>Warp</i>, + generally cotton, frequently linen; one of the two threads + encircled by a knot is doubled under the other. <i>Weft</i>, as a + rule, is cotton, occasionally it is wool or linen, of fine + diameter, and frequently dyed pink. A thread of weft crosses + twice between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, clipped + short and harsh to the touch. <i>Border</i>, from five to eight + stripes and an outer edging. <i>Sides</i>, a two-cord selvage. + <i>Both ends</i>, a narrow web and loose warp fringe. + <i>Texture</i>, firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of fine texture. + <i>Usual length</i>, nine to eighteen feet. <i>Usual width</i>, + two thirds to four fifths length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Gorevans.</span>—Of the + many rugs now made in Persia and designed primarily for use, few + are of such moderate price as the Gorevans,<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">147</a></span> which, + during recent years, have been imported in large numbers from the + province of Azerbijan in Northwestern Persia. A hasty glance + suggests Occidental craftsmanship, but in every essential they + are distinctly Oriental. Their stout weave, large size, and + nearly square shape place them in the class of Persian pieces + often called carpets, to which belong the Kermanshahs, Muskabads, + Mesheds, and rugs of Tabriz. Yet they are frequently larger than + any of these, and are readily distinguished from them by their + colours and patterns. It is true that they have the same light + shades, but the tones are in a distinctly different scale, + consisting principally of dull brick-red, light terra cotta, + buff, dark blue, dull green, yellow, and ivory, which, when once + recognised, are rarely mistaken for those of any other rugs. Nor + are the colours distributed in patches so small as to blend when + viewed at a short distance, but are of sufficient masses to be + separately observed and analysed.</p> + + <p>The patterns are equally distinctive. The field is generally + covered with a number of concentric hexagonal-shaped medallions, + of which the longer sides of the largest are often marked with + conspicuous indentations such as are not seen in classes made in + other districts. All of the medallions are covered with large + designs, in which the artist has departed from the usual forms of + vine, leaf, and flower, that poorly imitate the splendid examples + of so-called “Ispahans,” and in many instances has + represented them in the archaic drawing of the oldest remaining + Persian carpets. Hard, straight lines with angles replacing + graceful curves define the medallions, corners, stems, leaves, + and flowers. And not infrequently the formal treatment shows a + European influence, as when all semblance of leaf and flower has + disappeared in the extremely conventionalised forms that are + placed with set regularity in the field. A very noticeable + feature of these rugs is the manner in which the designs are + coloured, as it is not unusual to represent a large figure in two + strongly contrasting colours, as blue and pink separated by a + stiffly drawn line.</p> + + <p>The designs of the corners are similar to those of the central + medallions, but the designs of the borders are dissimilar. The + small stripes are marked with Persian vines of well-known floral + and leaf forms that show nothing of the drawing characteristic of + the field. The main stripe occasionally has cartouches and star + medallions, but in most instances has the turtle pattern, though + its treatment differs from the usual form seen in Feraghans. + A<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id= + "Page_148">148</a></span> co-ordination in colour exists between + field and border. The ground of both the main stripe and one of + the medallions is often a dark blue or a red, while the ground of + the other stripes corresponds with those of other medallions.</p> + + <p>All of the Gorevans are modern pieces, and so lack the + interest of those that follow traditional patterns; but their + stout weave, warm colours, and archaic designs make them both + serviceable and pleasing.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dull + red, dark blue, and buff, with minor quantities of green, yellow, + and white. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally six + to eight; perpendicularly, six to ten. The most conspicuous half + of a knot, as it appears at the back, is, as a rule, longer than + wide. The rows of knots are somewhat pressed down, but the warp + is rarely entirely concealed at back. <i>Warp</i>, cotton; one of + the two threads encircled by a knot is usually depressed below + the other at back; sometimes both threads are equally prominent. + <i>Weft</i>, cotton, of coarse diameter, sometimes dyed blue. A + thread of weft crosses only once between every two rows of knots, + or frequently twice. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium length. + <i>Border</i>, generally of three stripes, occasionally four or + five. <i>Sides</i>, a two-cord double selvage. <i>Both ends</i>, + a short warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, rather loose. <i>Weave</i> + at back is of very coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, ten to + sixteen feet. <i>Usual width</i>, three fifths to three quarters + length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Bakshis.</span>—A close + relationship exists between the Gorevans, which are a + comparatively modern product, and several other less known + sub-classes of earlier origin that are woven in small towns in + the east central part of the province of Azerbijan. One of these + towns, located fifty miles to the southeast of Tabriz, is + Bakshis, which formerly produced rugs that were highly esteemed + by the Persians, before the weavers were corrupted by a spirit of + commercialism. Those which are exported to-day are of little + artistic value, are poorly coloured, and carelessly woven. The + patterns are inferior copies of other well-known classes.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p34" id="p34"></a><img src="images/plate34.jpg" + width="550" height="696" alt="Plate 34. Rhodian Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 34. Rhodian + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Serapis.</span>—The rugs + known as Serapis are named after the village of Sirab in the + mountainous district between Tabriz and Ardebil; but they are + made not only there, but also in the country farther to the east. + The large sizes are frequently mistaken for Gorevans, as + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id= + "Page_149">149</a></span>they are of similar shape and have + similar finish of sides and ends, yet as a rule they are better + woven. Many of them follow the same patterns of concentric + medallions, but the lines of others are more artistically drawn. + Although the borders lack the gracefully symmetric vines of old + Iranian pieces, the drawing is interesting in its individuality + and is in harmony with that of the field. All the colours are + cheerful. A field of ivory or some light shade of buff usually + surrounds the central medallions, on which appear soft and + pleasing tones of smaller designs. Yet on the whole there is a + tendency to employ richer and deeper tones than those of + Gorevans. The smaller pieces often contain more elaborate + patterns, but there are always the same pleasing and unobtrusive + shades of colour.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + blue, and ivory, with minor quantities of green and yellow. + <i>Knot</i>, generally Sehna, frequently Ghiordes. Knots to inch + horizontally six to ten; perpendicularly, seven to twelve. The + rows of knots are firmly pressed down, so that the warp does not + show at back. <i>Warp</i>, cotton; one of the two threads + encircled by a knot is generally much depressed below the other + at back, and frequently doubled under the other. <i>Weft</i>, + cotton, of coarse diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice + between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool of medium + length. <i>Border</i>, three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a double + selvage of two cords, or double overcasting attached figure-eight + fashion to the sides. The selvage or overcasting is usually in + red or buff. <i>Lower end</i>, a narrow web and warp loops or + short warp fringe. <i>Upper end</i>, a narrow web and warp + fringe. <i>Texture</i>, stout. <i>Weave</i> at back is of coarse + grain. <i>Usual length</i>, ten to eighteen feet. <i>Usual + width</i>, two thirds to three quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Herez.</span>—The city of + Herez is in the extreme eastern part of the province of + Azerbijan, where for a long time the weavers steadily adhered to + the sterling values of early fabrics and produced pieces that + were followed with slight modification in many of the former + Gorevans. In a measure the rugs of Tabriz also are reflected in + the medallion pattern of some of these pieces, but for their + gracefully flowing lines are substituted more rectangular ones; + and in place of many colours are few, of which blue and a reddish + copper are particularly noticeable. Another well-known and + interesting type consists of a field of white, on which, with + formal precision, are represented, in delicate shades of red, + blue, yellow, and green,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" + id="Page_150">150</a></span> archaic leaves and flowers supported + by stems and tendrils that are so conventionalised as to form + geometric lines and angles. At regular intervals the branching + tendrils assume the shape of arches, of which in larger pieces + there are frequently one or two dozen; and so closely do they + resemble prayer arches that these rugs are sometimes mistaken for + namazliks. The borders usually consist of three stripes. The + outer and inner are narrow guards containing some simple floral + figure, and the broad central stripe has often a continuous vine + with formal leaves and a conspicuous design suggestive of the + cloud-band. The tones are never harsh; many of the pieces are + large and almost square, and the wool of the pile is generally + excellent.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally + ivory, light blue, and reddish brown, also some yellow and green. + <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five to ten; + perpendicularly, six to twelve. The most conspicuous half of a + knot, as it appears at the back, is longer than wide. The rows of + knots are only slightly pressed down, so that the weft is + noticeable at back. <i>Warp</i>, cotton; one of the two threads + encircled by a knot is depressed below the other at back, or each + thread is equally prominent. <i>Weft</i>, of cotton, seldom of + wool, of moderately coarse diameter. A thread of weft crosses + twice between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool of + medium length. <i>Border</i>, generally of three stripes. + <i>Sides</i>, a two-cord double selvage. <i>Lower end</i>, a very + narrow web and short warp fringe. <i>Upper end</i>, a short warp + fringe. <i>Texture</i>, loose. <i>Weave</i> at back is of very + coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, nine to fifteen feet. <i>Usual + width</i>, two thirds to seven eighths length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Suj-Bulaks.</span>—About + fifty miles to the south of Lake Urumiah and the same distance + from the western boundary of Persia is the old Kurdish capital of + Suj-Bulak. Kurds still largely predominate in the district and + comprise most of the population of the city, to the discomfort of + the much smaller number of Persians, for whose protection a large + garrison was formerly maintained. Accordingly, the rugs made in + this vicinity are strongly characteristic of Kurdish pieces in + the strong texture, the excellent quality of wool, the rich, dark + colours, the finish of sides and ends. The patterns also are + largely Kurdish, but frequently show the influence of Persian + association.</p> + + <p>In typical old pieces deep reds and blues are largely used. + One<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id= + "Page_151">151</a></span> of them is generally the ground colour + of the central field, and shows the Kurdish influence by a + gradual shading from end to end; the other appears in the + overlying pattern, which partakes of a floral character. The + drawing sometimes represents flowering plants, such as the rose + bush, arranged in perpendicular rows and brightened by tints of + white, green, or yellow. Detached flowers not infrequently line + the edges of the field. The wide borders also, as a rule, have + vines and floral forms.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dark + red and blue, with minor quantities of brown, green, yellow, and + ivory. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally seven to + ten; perpendicularly, eight to twelve. The rows of knots are, as + a rule, pressed down, so that the alignment of each half knot is + very uneven; but frequently this feature is not regularly + maintained in all parts of the same rug, so that here and there + the warp is noticeable at back. <i>Warp</i>, wool; each of the + two threads encircled by a knot is generally equally prominent at + back, but occasionally one is depressed below the other. + <i>Weft</i>, wool, of medium diameter. A thread of weft crosses + twice between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool of + medium length. <i>Border</i>, of three to four stripes. + <i>Sides</i>, a double selvage of two or three cords in blue, + red, or brown. <i>Lower end</i>, a web through which runs a + parti-coloured cord, and a warp fringe. Frequently there is a + braided selvage in addition to the web. <i>Upper end</i>, the + same as lower, excepting that the web is occasionally turned back + and hemmed. <i>Texture</i>, moderately loose. <i>Weave</i> at + back is of slightly coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, six to + seven feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two fifths to three fifths + length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Karadaghs.</span>—In the + extreme northwestern part of Persia, between the city of Tabriz + and the river Aras, is a mountain range called Kara Dagh, which + signifies the “Black Mountain,” On its slopes and in + the adjoining valleys rugs have been woven for at least several + hundred years, and at one time were well known in Europe, but few + have reached this country. Most of them are produced for home + use, so that they are, as a rule, well woven, of good material, + and of vegetable dyes. They resemble in colour scheme, weave, and + finish of sides and ends the rugs of Karabagh, which immediately + adjoins this district on the north. Indeed, in no other rugs of + Persia are the traditions of Iranian weavers so much disregarded + and Caucasian ideas so closely followed.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id= + "Page_152">152</a></span>The field of many of these rugs is + completely covered with conventionalised flowers of several + different colours, so arranged that diagonal lines are of similar + colours. Sometimes it is covered with a pattern of + hexagonal-shaped figures containing geometric forms or + conventionalised floral designs. Again, it may contain the Herati + pattern or one similar to the Mina-Khani. In fact, some + repetitive pattern of small design is the usual type; but now and + then some form of pole medallion, which the weavers have learned + from their more southern neighbours, is substituted. The patterns + of the borders are either mechanically drawn vines or contain + geometric figures characteristic of Caucasian pieces. For guard + stripes the reciprocal trefoil is constantly used.</p> + + <p>The colour scheme is generally bright and pleasing. A + favourite colour for the field is blue or a camel’s hair + yellow; sometimes rose is seen. The nap of modern pieces is + medium long and of old pieces is short. The weave of the latter + is excellent, so that the closely pressed knots and stout threads + of weft make at the back an even surface unlike the coarse + appearance of many rugs.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally blue, + red, yellow, green, and white. Knot, Ghiordes. <i>Knots</i> to + inch horizontally seven to eleven; perpendicularly, seven to + eleven. The rows of knots are not firmly pressed down, so that + the warp appears at back, and the weft is prominent. <i>Warp</i>, + wool; each of the threads encircled by a knot is equally distinct + at back. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of coarse diameter, occasionally + dyed. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of + knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of moderate length. <i>Border</i>, + three to six stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a double selvage of two or + three cords. <i>Both ends</i>, a narrow web and short warp + fringe. <i>Texture</i>, moderately firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is + of rather coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, five to nine feet. + <i>Usual width</i>, two fifths to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Mosuls.</span>—Near the + ruins of ancient Nineveh, on the bank of the Tigris, is the city + of Mosul. Once it was not only an important mart for wares + carried up and down the river, and for vast caravans from east + and west, but it became noted for its textiles from which was + derived the name “muslin.” At length on account of + pestilence, misrule, and the sack of armies its population and + industries have dwindled; though it is still the capital and + commercial centre of a district that lies between the high + table-lands surrounding Lake Van and the low plains of Bagdad, + and that extends across the Mesopotamian<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span> valley + to the mountain ridges bordering Western Persia. Within this + extensive area are large stretches of rich pasture, where Abraham + once fed his flocks, and where each year Kurdish nomads from the + north drive their sheep when the winter snows cover their own + hillsides. Arabs, Turks, Armenians, Jews, and Christians likewise + mingle with the natives, so that the population is as mixed as + can be found anywhere in the Orient.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p35" id="p35"></a><img src="images/plate35.jpg" + width="550" height="879" alt="Plate 35. Konieh Prayer Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 35. Konieh Prayer + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>Thus it happens that the rugs marketed in the city of Mosul + are made by different races and show great diversity of + character. It would, indeed, be often difficult to distinguish + them if the weave were disregarded; for though they are prone to + yellow and russet hues, and the long wool is floccy as well as + lustrous, there is no pattern that can be considered truly + typical. Many of them borrow Caucasian designs, such as stars, + latch-hooks, diagonal bands, and barber-pole stripes. Others have + patterns adopted almost bodily from Kurdish pieces. But however + much the nomadic rugs are copied, a Persian influence is always + shown by the way in which the severer features are softened. In + fact, a very large percentage of rugs that come from Mosul are + made by the tribes that wander as far east as the great mountain + divides along the borders of Western Persia, and adopt patterns + and colour schemes current in Azerbijan and Ardelan. It + accordingly happens that medallion patterns resembling those of + Bijars, but with bolder and less graceful outlines, are seen. + More frequently the field is covered with small figures common to + Feraghans, as well as with the well-known pear designs; but the + former are coarsely drawn, and the latter lack the gracefully + rounded lines seen in Sarabends and are often as geometric as + those of the Baku rugs. Somewhere in almost all these pieces + appears evidence of some conventionalised floral form; but now + and then a rare old piece is found which was woven in the plains + of Mesopotamia, with field completely covered with a + naturalistically drawn tulip that grows on the banks of the + Tigris and Euphrates. Its bright flowers and leaves, supported by + a delicate stalk, constitute one of the most beautiful designs + seen in any rug.</p> + + <p>The borders are rarely wide, and generally consist of three + stripes, one of which usually has some simple vine, and the + others some well-known geometric pattern. It is, also, not + unusual to find an outer edging surrounding the border. In a few + of these pieces camel’s hair is used even to the extent of + occupying the whole field; and goat’s<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span> hair or + sheep’s wool, dyed to a similar colour, is constantly + employed. One of the most usual colours is some shade of yellow. + Reddish hues also prevail. These rugs frequently have the same + pleasing effect of slightly graduated changes so common in the + ground colour of Kurdistans, but as a whole the colour scheme is + lighter. On the other hand, they follow the shading adopted in + Persian rugs, which in a measure eliminates the sudden transition + between adjacent areas of strongly contrasting colour so + noticeable in nomadic pieces. On account of the present + remoteness of the Mosul district from important highways of + travel, many excellent pieces, which with careful use should + acquire the rich tones of those now old, are still woven + there.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally + yellow and brownish red, with minor quantities of blue, green, + and white. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five + to seven; perpendicularly, seven to nine. A half knot, as it + appears at back, is as long as wide and frequently longer. The + yarn is not drawn tightly against the warp. The rows of knots are + firmly pressed down, so that the warp is concealed at back. + <i>Warp</i>, almost always wool, rarely cotton; each of the two + threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back. + <i>Weft</i>, generally of wool, of coarse diameter and frequently + dyed red or orange, but occasionally of cotton. As a rule, a + thread of weft crosses twice between two rows of knots, but + sometimes crosses only once; or two or three threads cross side + by side, as in Karajes. <i>Pile</i>, wool and occasionally + camel’s hair, of medium length. <i>Border</i>, of three + stripes with frequently an outer edging of solid colour. + <i>Sides</i> are generally a heavy double overcasting, but in a + few pieces there is a two-cord weft selvage or double selvage. + <i>Lower end</i>, a web. <i>Upper end</i>, a web and warp fringe; + occasionally there is a heavy braided selvage, or the web is + turned back and hemmed. <i>Texture</i>, moderately firm. + <i>Weave</i> at back is of coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, six + to ten feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two fifths to three quarters + length.</p> + + <p class="tb">Now and then are seen comparatively scarce rugs, + such as the Teheran, Gulistan, Kara-Geuz, Bibikabad, Afshar, and + Gozene, that were woven within the Iranian boundaries. Some of + them are no longer produced, and others are woven in such small + numbers that but few are exported.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p36" id="p36"></a><img src="images/plate36.jpg" + width="550" height="844" alt="Plate 36. Kir-shehr Prayer Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 36. Kir-shehr + Prayer Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>The Teherans were formerly made in the present capital of + Persia. The typical pattern consists of the Herati design or some + floral <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id= + "Page_155">155</a></span>form occupying the central field, which + is two or three times as long as wide. The weave resembles that + of Irans, since the knot is Ghiordes, each of the two threads of + warp that it encircles is equally prominent at the back, and both + warp and weft are cotton. The borders are wide, and the sides are + finished with a two-cord selvage.</p> + + <p>Gulistan is the Persian name for a flower garden, and the rugs + known by that name were once made in a district not far from + Kashan, where rose bushes bloomed profusely. The fields may be + covered with conventionalised floral and leaf patterns, or again + they may contain roses naturalistically drawn with extended + petals, as if viewed from above. The most striking characteristic + is the opulence of colour, such as red, blue, and yellow softened + by shades of brown and green. Even the weft and the webs of the + ends are red, blue, or brown. The sides have a two-cord selvage, + warp and weft are usually of cotton, and one thread of warp to + each knot is depressed at the back. These rugs, which formerly + came in large sizes, are no longer made.</p> + + <p>Only a short distance to the northeast of Hamadan is the + district of Kara-Geuz, which is occupied by a large tribe, who in + the past have furnished some of the best of Persian cavalry. The + people are industrious, and not only cultivate the land but + engage in weaving. Some of their rugs closely resemble the + Kurdish pieces, and others correspond with the Irans. In the + technique of weave they often follow the Hamadans. On the + outskirts of this district is the town of Bibikabad, where, also, + rugs are woven for market.</p> + + <p>For a number of generations the country adjoining Lake Urumiah + on the west and stretching into the Turkish domain has been + partly occupied by a powerful race of brave and active people who + are known as Afshars. They are regarded as a branch of the Yuruks + of Asia Minor, and the rugs of both tribes have many points of + similarity. The wool of the nap is generally the coarse product + of the mountain sheep. The patterns incorporate some of the + floral features of Persian rugs, though they display many + Caucasian characteristics. These Afshars bear a close resemblance + to the Kazaks, from which they may be distinguished by observing + a fold as they are bent backwards, which will show the fibres of + the yarn of a knot standing out at front as a unit, while in + Kazaks they have a greater tendency to blend. Also at the back, + each half of a knot is no longer than wide, nor is it drawn + closely against the warp, while in Kazaks each half of a knot is + often double its width and is drawn closer.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id= + "Page_156">156</a></span>In the country about Gozene, in the + watershed of the Euphrates river, are made a few rugs for local + use, though they occasionally reach Western markets. The pattern, + which is very simple, usually consists of some small diaper + figure of brown or grey colour, or of dull tones of maroon. Many + of this class have a double foundation of warp; and frequently, + at the back, the knots do not form regular lines parallel with + the length, as is the case with other rugs. This is due to the + fact that any thread of warp may be encircled by both the left + half of some knots and the right half of others. Occasionally, + also, a knot is tied about four threads of warp. In other rugs of + this class which have a single foundation of warp the weave + resembles that of Mosuls.</p> + + <h4>BORDER STRIPES</h4> + + <p>The most noticeable feature of Persian border stripes is their + floral character, which is very frequently represented by a vine + winding from side to side with pendent flowers marking each + flexure. Some of these vines have been evolved from arabesques, + and others from naturalistic tendrils, but all are graceful. In a + few pieces the stripes contain rows of detached flowers, + rosettes, or pears, expressed in rich yet unobtrusive colours, + that are always in perfect harmony with those of the field. + Rarely is the pattern geometric. Accordingly, with the exception + of the Indian and some of the Chinese, they are the most elegant, + pleasing, and artistic of all border stripes. Moreover, some of + them follow almost the same patterns that were in use centuries + ago.</p> + + <p class="tb"><i>Primary Stripes.</i>—In Plate <a href= + "#pe">E</a>, Fig. 1 (opp. Page 156), is represented a typical + Herat stripe derived from some of the XV and XVI Century carpets. + It shows close relationship to the pattern of conventional + rosette and pair of attendant leaves so frequently seen on the + fields of such rugs as the Feraghans and Sehnas. In this stripe + the angular and serrated leaves are extended to form a vine.</p> + + <p>One of the best known Khorassan stripes, shown in Plate + <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 2, bears a resemblance to the Herat + stripe; and it is not unlikely that they had a common origin, + since they were designed in adjoining and freely communicating + districts. The enlargements of the vine at the centre of each + flexure are doubtless leaves, but they occasionally resemble the + heads of birds.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> <a name="pe" id="pe"></a> + <img src="images/platee.jpg" width="550" height="786" alt= "Plate E. Primary Border-Stripes of Persian Rugs" title="" /> + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate E. Primary + Border-Stripes of Persian Rugs</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id= + "Page_157">157</a></span></p> + + <p>The so-called turtle pattern, Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. + 3, has probably been derived from the interlacing arabesques that + appeared in rugs at least as early as the beginning of the XV + Century, as is indicated on Page 79. The rosette and attendant + leaves between adjacent “turtles” suggest the Herati + pattern. This stripe is found principally in Feraghans, Irans, + Sehnas, and Muskabads. One that is similar, but more mechanically + drawn and with wider spreading arms, is typical of Gorevans and + Serapis.</p> + + <p>A stripe found in Joshaghans, representing a row of floral + bushes, is shown in Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 4. It is also + seen in some of the old rugs of Northwestern Persia. Another + Joshaghan stripe, which also suggests the Herati pattern, is + represented in Fig. 5.</p> + + <p>A single row of pears (Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 6) is a + characteristic Luristan stripe.</p> + + <p>The dainty pattern of Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 7, in + which the vine has been abandoned and serrated leaves nearly + surround a floral device, shows a not unusual Herez stripe.</p> + + <p>As a rule the drawing of Persian-Kurdish stripes is never + crowded, and represents a simple vine with bright pendent + flowers. A stripe commonly seen in this class is represented in + Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 8. It is also seen in the + Bijars.</p> + + <p>On account of the geographic position of the Karadagh + district, which is separated only by the Aras river from + Caucasia, its stripes show a combination of floral and geometric + design not usual in other Persian pieces. Plate <a href= + "#pe">E</a>, Fig. 9, represents one of these stripes with a + rosette, and the serrated leaf so common among the Shirvans. + Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 10, represents another stripe of + the same class with eight-petalled star-shaped flowers pendent + from an angular vine.</p> + + <p>A beautiful stripe, representing a vine and pendant flower, + which is frequently seen in some of the Persian-Kurdish rugs, is + shown in Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 11.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 12, is illustrated a very + dainty pattern of vine and roses that now and then is seen in old + Feraghans; and in Fig. 13 are also represented vine and roses as + they occasionally appear in old rugs of Northwestern Persia.</p> + + <p>The very mechanically drawn double vine shown in Plate + <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 14, is sometimes seen in stripes of + Hamadans. In fact, simplicity of border is a characteristic of + this class.</p> + + <p>Mosul and Kurdish stripes show a similarity, but the former + are often more mechanically drawn than the latter. In Plate + <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 15,<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span> is a stripe from an old + and beautiful Mosul with conventionalised vine and King + Solomon’s eight-pointed star.</p> + + <p>Undoubtedly the most typical of any class of Persian stripes + is the well-known Sarabend pattern of formal vine with pendent + pear on white ground. It is very rarely that a rug of this class + is without this stripe (Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 16). Its + presence at once indicates that the piece is either a Sarabend or + an Iran copy.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 17, is the well-known pear + pattern of a Meshed stripe. The graceful form, resembling in a + measure the Indian drawing, is peculiar to these stripes.</p> + + <p>The Kirman stripe (Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 18) + invariably contains red roses naturalistically drawn, surrounded + by a profusion of leaves and stems. This is one of the most + beautiful of Persian border patterns.</p> + + <p>Somewhat similar, but far more formal, is the Kermanshah + stripe, one of which appears in Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. + 19, with mechanically drawn flowers, leaves, and vines.</p> + + <p>The formal pattern (Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 20) of + octagons surrounded by latch-hooks is now and then found in + borders of Shiraz rugs, and indicates how great a concession + their weavers at times make to nomadic influences.</p> + + <p>The main stripe of Sehnas is always narrow and contains some + floral form, though frequently much conventionalised. One of + these stripes is shown in Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. 21.</p> + + <p>Very few Persian rugs have such wealth of floral ornamentation + in the borders as the Sarouks and Kashans. A stripe typical of + the former is represented in Plate <a href="#pe">E</a>, Fig. + 22.</p> + + <p class="tb"><i>Secondary and Tertiary Stripes.</i>—The + ornamentation of a large proportion of secondary stripes of + Persian rugs consists of running vines, which fall within two + divisions, according to the absence or presence of pendants.</p> + + <p>Plate <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 1 (opp. Page 158), taken from + an inner stripe of a Kermanshah, shows one of the simplest vines + with budding tendrils at each flexure.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 2, is a simple stripe seen + in such rugs as Gorevans. Similar stripes are very common. As + there is no pendant, the character of the vine depends upon the + form it assumes in alternating flexures, one of which in this + instance is an eight-petalled star.</p> + + <p>In many of the Karadaghs is seen the Caucasian stripe (Plate + <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 3) consisting of an angular vine, from + each flexure of which spring small designs like three-leaf + clover.</p> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate F. Secondary + Border-Stripes of Persian Rugs</span></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pf" id="pf"></a><img src="images/platef.jpg" width="550" height="714" alt="" title="" /> + </div> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate F. Secondary + Border-Stripes of Persian Rugs</span></p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id= + "Page_159">159</a></span></p> + + <p>Another type peculiar to some rugs of Northwestern Persia, as + the Bijars and even Sehnas, is shown in Plate <a href= + "#pf">F</a>, Fig. 4. Here one flexure is a serrated leaf, and the + other is a small rosette with short curving tendrils.</p> + + <p>A simple vine of somewhat similar order appears in Plate + <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 5. At each flexure is a flower of four + petals, and from alternating flexures spring tendrils of colour + different from that of the vine. Stripes of similar drawing + appeared in Persian carpets as early as 1350 <span class= + "smcap">a. d.</span> A further stage in the development of the + same pattern is illustrated in Plate <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. + 6.</p> + + <p>One of the simplest forms of a vine with pendant is shown in + <a href="#pf">Plate F</a>, Fig. 7. It appears in Asia Minor + carpets woven during the XIII Century, and also in some of the + earliest Iranian carpets. Now and then it is seen in modern + Persian rugs.</p> + + <p>A very common form of a vine with pendant is shown in <a href= + "#pf">Plate F</a>, Fig. 8. This pattern is seen in a large number + of Persian rugs, such as Mosuls, Bijars, Kurdistans, and + Hamadans. Each flexure of the vine is enlarged to almost the form + of a leaf, and between them is a branching pendant.</p> + + <p>In another stripe (Plate <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 9), taken + from a Feraghan, there is no particular enlargement to the vine, + and the alternating pendants are buds and flowers of four + petals.</p> + + <p>A more geometric form that appears in such rugs as Muskabads + is shown in Plate <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 10. In this the vine + represents serrated leaves, and suggests one of the Shirvan + patterns.</p> + + <p>A very similar stripe (Plate <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 11), + taken from a Sehna, should be compared with those of Figs. 8 and + 10, as it serves to illustrate the evolution of vine patterns. In + fact, if a very large number of stripes were arranged in proper + order, they would show almost imperceptible gradations from one + type to another.</p> + + <p>One of the simplest vines with pendant, adopted by the Kurdish + tribes, is shown in Plate <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 12; and in + Fig. 13 is another vine with pendent pear alternating with a + rosette.</p> + + <p>Not all the patterns, however, are vines. In Plate <a href= + "#pf">F</a>, Figs. 14 and 15, for instance, is represented the + same secondary stripe as it appears at the sides and the ends of + some moderately old Persian rugs. The former pattern bears a + resemblance to the one in Fig. 5, and each illustrates a series + of connecting links.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id= + "Page_160">160</a></span>A graceful pattern that is seen in + Bijars, Hamadans, and other rugs of Northwestern Persia is + represented in Plate <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 16. It was + probably derived from an old form of leaf and tendril.</p> + + <p>The reciprocal trefoil (Plate <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 17) + which is constantly used in a tertiary stripe, is probably a + degenerate form of an ornate floral design. It is more widely + used for a border stripe than any other pattern, as it is found + not only in such Persian rugs as Sarabends, Bijars, Sarouks, and + Kashans, but in many of the Indian and Beluchistan rugs, and in + almost all of the Caucasian group. It was commonly used in + Persian rugs as early as the year 1500.</p> + + <p>In many of the rugs of Persia and Asia Minor is seen as a + tertiary stripe the simple ribbon pattern (Plate <a href= + "#pf">F</a>, Fig. 18). Its origin is lost in the dim past, and it + is not improbable that once it had a symbolic meaning.</p> + + <p>A very interesting tertiary stripe, because of its + well-authenticated age, contains the “Y” pattern + shown in Plate <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 19. It is found in some + Persian carpets that were woven as early as 1550.</p> + + <p>One of the simplest guard stripes, shown in Plate <a href= + "#pf">F</a>, Fig. 20, is frequently found in modern Persian rugs, + as well as in Iranian carpets woven six centuries ago.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pvi" id="pvi"></a><img src="images/plate_vi.jpg" + width="550" height="1322" alt="Colour Plate VI. Persian Garden Carpet" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Colour Plate VI. Persian + Garden Carpet</span></p> + </div> + + <p class="center">This carpet and the one at the Naesby House, + Sweden, which it resembles in pattern but not in colouring, are, + so far as known, the only complete carpets of this type. The + Naesby carpet has been assigned to the middle of the XVIII. + Century; this is undoubtedly much older.</p> + + <p class="center">A 16TH CENTURY PERSIAN ROYAL + “GARDEN” CARPET</p> + + <p class="center2">(Reputed to have been made for Shah + ’Abbās for Sefavi Palace.) Date 1587-1628.</p> + + <p class="center">31 ft. 0 in. x 12 ft. 3 in.</p> + + <p class="center"><i>Statement of the owner</i></p> + + <p class="center">ORIGINALLY IMPORTED BY VINCENT ROBINSON & + CO., LTD., LONDON.</p> + + <p class="center3">The pattern represents a Persian garden + divided into four sections by two intersecting streams, which are + bordered by rows of cypress trees, alternating with bushes on + which are birds. These sections are similarly divided by smaller + streams, that meet at the four pavilions of each side, into plots + containing trees and flowering bushes. Four peacocks rest above + the central basin. The colours are harmonious, and show the + mellowing influence of time.</p> + + <p> <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id= + "Page_161">161</a></span></p> + + <h4>TECHNICALITIES IN THE WEAVE OF PERSIAN RUGS</h4> + + <p>Legend:<br /> + <br /> + KNOT—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">H = Horizontally</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">P = Perpendicularly</span><br /> + WARP—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">g = goat’s + hair</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">l = linen</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">e = each equally + prominent</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">d = 1 to the knot + depressed</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">h = 1 to the knot doubled + under</span><br /> + WEFT—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">s = silk</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">l = linen</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">No. = No. times crossing bet. two + round knots</span><br /> + SIDES—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">O = overcast</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">S = selvage</span><br /> + LOWER END<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">W = web</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">S = Selvage</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">K = Rows knots</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">L = warp loops</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">F = fringe</span><br /> + UPPER END<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">W = web</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">S = selvage</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">K = Rows knots</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">T = turned back and + hemmed</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">F = fringe</span><br /></p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="3">PERSIAN</td> + + <td class="center12" colspan="4">KNOT</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="6">WARP</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center12" rowspan="2">G =<br /> + Ghiordes</td> + + <td class="center8" rowspan="2">S =<br /> + Sehna</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="2">Number to<br /> + Inches</td> + + <td class="center8" rowspan="2">w=<br /> + wool</td> + + <td class="center12" rowspan="2">c=<br /> + cotton</td> + + <td class="center6" rowspan="2">s/l</td> + + <td class="center6" colspan="3">At back</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">H</td> + + <td class="center8">P</td> + + <td class="center6">e</td> + + <td class="center6">d</td> + + <td class="center6">h</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Bijar<br /> + Feraghan<br /> + Gorevan<br /> + Hamadan<br /> + Herat<br /> + Herez<br /> + Iran<br /> + Mod. Ispahan<br /> + Joshaghan<br /> + Kashan<br /> + Karadagh<br /> + Karaje<br /> + Kermanshah<br /> + Khorassan<br /> + Kirman</td> + + <td class="center12">G<br /> + [G]<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + <br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center8"> <br /> + S<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [S]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + S<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S</td> + + <td class="center8">6-10<br /> + 8-13<br /> + 6-8<br /> + 6-9<br /> + 8-11<br /> + 5-10<br /> + 6-11<br /> + 6-9<br /> + 7-11<br /> + 16-20<br /> + 7-11<br /> + 6-11<br /> + 12-18<br /> + 8-13<br /> + 11-20</td> + + <td class="center8">8-12<br /> + 7-18<br /> + 6-10<br /> + 8-12<br /> + 6-12<br /> + 6-12<br /> + 7-11<br /> + 8-11<br /> + 8-13<br /> + 16-24<br /> + 7-11<br /> + 7-12<br /> + 11-18<br /> + 12-20<br /> + 11-20</td> + + <td class="center8">w <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [w]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + w<br /> + [w]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center12"> <br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + <br /> + [c]<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [1]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6">e<br /> + [e]<br /> + e<br /> + <br /> + [e]<br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + <br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + d <br /> + [d]<br /> + d<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6">h<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + h<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + h<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + h<br /> + h<br /> + h</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p> </p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="2">PERSIAN</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">WEFT</td> + + <td class="center6" colspan="2">SIDES</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">LOWER END</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">w =<br /> + wool</td> + + <td class="center12">c =<br /> + cotton</td> + + <td class="center8">s/l</td> + + <td class="center8">P</td> + + <td class="center6">O</td> + + <td class="center6">S</td> + + <td class="center6">W/S</td> + + <td class="center6">K</td> + + <td class="center6">L</td> + + <td class="center6">F</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Bijar<br /> + Feraghan<br /> + Gorevan<br /> + Hamadan<br /> + Herat<br /> + Herez<br /> + Iran<br /> + Mod. Ispahan<br /> + Joshaghan<br /> + Kashan<br /> + Karadagh<br /> + Karaje<br /> + Kermanshah<br /> + Khorassan<br /> + Kirman</td> + + <td class="center8">w<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [w]<br /> + w<br /> + [w]<br /> + <br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + <br /> + [w]<br /> + W</td> + + <td class="center12"> <br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + [c]<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + <br /> + c<br /> + <br /> + [c]<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + [c]</td> + + <td class="center8"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [1]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center8">2<br /> + 2<br /> + 1-2<br /> + 1<br /> + 2/[3-4]<br /> + 2<br /> + 2/[1]<br /> + 1-2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 1<br /> + 2<br /> + 2/[6-8]<br /> + 2</td> + + <td class="center6">O<br /> + O <br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + <br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + O</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + S<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + S<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + S<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center8">W/[S]<br /> + W<br /> + <br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + ; <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + L<br /> + L<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + L<br /> + [L]<br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + F<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + F<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + F<br /> + <br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + <br /> + F</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p> </p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="2">PERSIAN</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">UPPER END</td> + + <td class="center18">NAP</td> + + <td class="center18">WEAVE</td> + + <td class="center18">TEXTURE</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">W/S</td> + + <td class="center6">K</td> + + <td class="center6">T</td> + + <td class="center6">F</td> + + <td class="left18">l = long<br /> + m = medium<br /> + s = short</td> + + <td class="left18">f = fine<br /> + m = medium<br /> + c = coarse</td> + + <td class="left18">l = loose<br /> + m = medium<br /> + f = firm</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Bijar<br /> + Feraghan<br /> + Gorevan<br /> + Hamadan<br /> + Herat<br /> + Herez<br /> + Iran<br /> + Mod. Ispahan<br /> + Joshaghan<br /> + Kashan<br /> + Karadagh<br /> + Karaje<br /> + Kermanshah<br /> + Khorassan<br /> + Kirman</td> + + <td class="center8">W/[S]<br /> + W<br /> + <br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + <br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W</td> + + <td class="center6">W <br /> + W <br /> + W <br /> + W <br /> + W <br /> + W <br /> + W <br /> + K</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + T <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + T</td> + + <td class="center6">F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + <br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F</td> + + <td class="center18">m<br /> + s<br /> + m<br /> + m/s<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m/s<br /> + m<br /> + s<br /> + m<br /> + m/l<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + s</td> + + <td class="center18">m<br /> + m<br /> + c<br /> + m<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + m<br /> + f<br /> + f<br /> + m/c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + m/f<br /> + f</td> + + <td class="center18">f<br /> + m<br /> + l<br /> + f<br /> + f<br /> + l<br /> + l<br /> + f<br /> + m<br /> + f<br /> + m/f<br /> + l<br /> + f<br /> + m/f<br /> + f</td> + </tr> + </table> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id= + "Page_162">162</a></span></p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="3">PERSIAN</td> + + <td class="center12" colspan="4">KNOT</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="6">WARP</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center12" rowspan="2">G =<br /> + Ghiordes</td> + + <td class="center8" rowspan="2">S =<br /> + Sehna</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="2">Number to<br /> + Inches</td> + + <td class="center8" rowspan="2">w=<br /> + wool</td> + + <td class="center12" rowspan="2">c=<br /> + cotton</td> + + <td class="center6" rowspan="2">s/l</td> + + <td class="center6" colspan="3">At back</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">H</td> + + <td class="center8">P</td> + + <td class="center6">e</td> + + <td class="center6">d</td> + + <td class="center6">h</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Persian Kurdistan<br /> + Western Kurdistan<br /> + Mahal<br /> + Meshed<br /> + Mosul<br /> + Muskabad<br /> + Niris<br /> + Sarabend<br /> + Sarouk<br /> + Sehna<br /> + Serapi<br /> + Shiraz<br /> + Suj-Bulak<br /> + Tabriz</td> + + <td class="center12">G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + [G]<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + G<br /> + [G]<br /> + [G]<br /> + G<br /> + G</td> + + <td class="center8"> <br /> + <br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + <br /> + S<br /> + <br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center8">5-9<br /> + 4-17<br /> + 7-12<br /> + 8-15<br /> + 5-7<br /> + 6-11<br /> + 6-11<br /> + 8-13<br /> + 12-20<br /> + 12-24<br /> + 7-12<br /> + 8-12<br /> + 6-12<br /> + 10-22</td> + + <td class="center8">6-13<br /> + 6-9<br /> + 6-12<br /> + 12-17<br /> + 7-9<br /> + 6-11<br /> + 7-15<br /> + 9-13<br /> + 12-20<br /> + 12-24<br /> + 7-12<br /> + 8-12<br /> + 6-12<br /> + 10-22</td> + + <td class="center8">w<br /> + w<br /> + <br /> + [w]<br /> + w<br /> + <br /> + w <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + </td> + + <td class="center12"> <br /> + <br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + [c]<br /> + c<br /> + <br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + c</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [l]<br /> + [l]<br /> + <br /> + [g]<br /> + <br /> + [l]</td> + + <td class="center6">e<br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + <br /> + e<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + e<br /> + <br /> + e<br /> + <br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6">d<br /> + <br /> + d<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + d<br /> + d<br /> + <br /> + [d]<br /> + <br /> + d<br /> + [d]<br /> + [d]<br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + h<br /> + <br /> + [h]<br /> + [h]<br /> + h<br /> + h<br /> + <br /> + [h]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + h</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p> </p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="2">PERSIAN</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">WEFT</td> + + <td class="center6" colspan="2">SIDES</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">LOWER END</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">w =<br /> + wool</td> + + <td class="center12">c =<br /> + cotton</td> + + <td class="center8">s/l</td> + + <td class="center8">P</td> + + <td class="center6">O</td> + + <td class="center6">S</td> + + <td class="center6">W/S</td> + + <td class="center6">K</td> + + <td class="center6">L</td> + + <td class="center6">F</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Persian Kurdistan<br /> + Western Kurdistan<br /> + Mahal<br /> + Meshed<br /> + Mosul<br /> + Muskabad<br /> + Niris<br /> + Sarabend<br /> + Sarouk<br /> + Sehna<br /> + Serapi<br /> + Shiraz<br /> + Suj-Bulak<br /> + Tabriz</td> + + <td class="center8">w<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [w]<br /> + w<br /> + [w]<br /> + <br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + <br /> + [w]<br /> + W</td> + + <td class="center12"> <br /> + <br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + [c]<br /> + c<br /> + <br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + c</td> + + <td class="center8"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [1]</td> + + <td class="center8">2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2/[1]<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 1<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2</td> + + <td class="center6">O<br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + <br /> + O<br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + S<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + S<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + S<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center8">W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + [W]<br /> + W<br /> + [W]<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + [K]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [K]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6">L<br /> + [L]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + L<br /> + L<br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + <br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + [F]<br /> + <br /> + F<br /> + F</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p> </p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="2">PERSIAN</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">UPPER END</td> + + <td class="center18">NAP</td> + + <td class="center18">WEAVE</td> + + <td class="center18">TEXTURE</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">W/S</td> + + <td class="center6">K</td> + + <td class="center6">T</td> + + <td class="center6">F</td> + + <td class="left18">l = long<br /> + m = medium<br /> + s = short</td> + + <td class="left18">f = fine<br /> + m = medium<br /> + c = coarse</td> + + <td class="left18">l = loose<br /> + m = medium<br /> + f = firm</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Persian Kurdistan<br /> + Western Kurdistan<br /> + Mahal<br /> + Meshed<br /> + Mosul<br /> + Muskabad<br /> + Niris<br /> + Sarabend<br /> + Sarouk<br /> + Sehna<br /> + Serapi<br /> + Shiraz<br /> + Suj-Bulak<br /> + Tabriz</td> + + <td class="center8">W<br /> + W<br /> + [W]<br /> + W/[S]<br /> + [W]<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + [K]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + K<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + T<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [T]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [T]<br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6">F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F</td> + + <td class="center18">l<br /> + l<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m/s<br /> + s<br /> + s<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + s</td> + + <td class="center18">c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + m<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + m<br /> + m/f<br /> + f<br /> + m<br /> + c<br /> + m<br /> + m/c<br /> + f</td> + + <td class="center18">f<br /> + f<br /> + m/f<br /> + m/f<br /> + m/f<br /> + m/f<br /> + l<br /> + f<br /> + f<br /> + m<br /> + f<br /> + l<br /> + m/l<br /> + f</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p>[] indicates the less frequent condition.</p> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id= + "Page_163">163</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER X</h3> + + <h4>ASIA MINOR RUGS</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/a.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="A" + title="A" /></span>LL rugs that are woven in the Turkish + provinces of Asia are frequently grouped together and called + “Turkish” rugs; but a more natural classification is + to distinguish between those made to the east and those made to + the west of a line drawn from the Gulf of Iskenderoon to + Trebizond, deflecting slightly in its course so as to follow the + ridges that divide the watershed of the western forks of the + Euphrates river from the plateau of Anatolia. With the exception + of the very few pieces that come from Syria or other southerly + districts, those woven in the Turkish provinces east of this line + show such a relationship to those of Persia that they are more + properly classed with them; while on the other hand, with the + exception of the rugs of the wandering Yuruks, those woven to the + west of this line and in the neighbouring islands of the + Mediterranean conform so closely to a common type that they fall + naturally into a separate group. It is better, therefore, to + treat them separately and to call them the Asia Minor Rugs.</p> + + <p>Though a certain glamour attaches to all that comes from + Persia, the Indes, or Far Cathay, in no part of the Orient are + rugs woven on more classic ground than are the Asia Minor pieces. + They are still made in the shadow of the walls where Cro[es]us + lived and among villages where Homer trod. Their yarn is spun + with crude distaff by the shepherd who still drives his flock + along the same road where Artaxerxes marched, across the bridges + that Roman legions built, and over the green slopes of Mt. Ida. + In fact the names of some of them call to mind pictures of the + Crusades, the journey of Paul, the march of Alexander’s + conquering army, and of cities founded before the beginning of + history.</p> + + <p>When analysing the rugs of Asia Minor, it is necessary to make + a distinction that has been previously noticed in the case of + Persian<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id= + "Page_164">164</a></span> rugs, though with them it is less + important. From the time when there arose a large demand in the + markets of Europe and America for the rugs of the East the + natural supply decreased, and, as a consequence, the price of + those that remained increased. To meet this deficiency, and + because of the higher prices, there was established a system by + which large numbers of women and children were constantly + employed; although many worked in their own homes, using such + material as was furnished by their employers and receiving fixed + daily wages. In the western and southern parts of Asia Minor, + which are connected by railroads with seaports, are a number of + communities where this system is in vogue. One of these is at + Demirdji in the province of Smyrna, where there are a small + number of looms; others are in the districts of Ghiordes and + Kulah, which together have about one thousand looms; and Oushak, + the principal rug-weaving centre of Asia Minor, has as many + more.<a name="FNanchor_28" id="FNanchor_28"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">28</a> Almost all rugs produced + at such places are now shipped to Smyrna, which itself has but + very few looms, or to Constantinople, whence they are reshipped + to Western markets. These products lack much of the oldtime + artistic spirit and individuality of character, on account of the + dependence of the weavers on their employers, who demand the + largest output consistent with fair quality. Furthermore, the + weavers are frequently required to reproduce Western patterns. + The result is that most of these rugs possess little of the + firmness of texture, the harmonious relations of designs, and the + excellent colour of old fabrics. Since, then, they represent in a + measure European influences, and are subject to further changes + to meet the demands of a fluctuating foreign taste, it would be + of little use to describe them, especially as all their original + characteristics exist in the old pieces.</p> + + <p>The striking features of Asia Minor rugs woven over fifty + years ago are the colour schemes, main patterns, and the separate + designs, which may be either independent of the pattern or + constitute part of it. The colour effect of Asia Minor rugs is as + a rule brighter than that of the Central Asian, Indian, or + Persian groups; for the reds, blues, and yellows are less + subdued. Some of their tones never appear in Chinese rugs, and on + the whole they most closely resemble those of the Caucasian + pieces; yet it is not unusual to see such colours as mauve, + lavender, and canary yellow, that rarely appear even among these. + Moreover, in a few of them masses of strongly + contrasting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id= + "Page_165">165</a></span> colours are placed beside one another + without the customary shading of Persian rugs or the artificial + device of Caucasian latch-hooks to soften the effect of harsh + combinations.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="m2" id="m2"></a><a href="images/map2z.jpg"><img src="images/map2.jpg" width="550" height="350" alt="MAP OF ASIA MINOR" title="" /></a> + + <p class="center">MAP OF ASIA MINOR</p> + </div> + + <p>The difference, nevertheless, between the Asia Minor rugs and + those of other groups is less apparent in the colour schemes than + in the main patterns, for in the Asia Minor rugs is evidence of + an independent inspiration and development. There are lacking the + rigid octagonal figures of the Central Asian groups; the frets + and floral sprays distinctive of Chinese; the naturalistic floral + treatment of the Indian; the delicate tracings, rhythm of + movement, and wealth of foliage motives that characterise the + Persian; as well as the severely geometric forms and + conventionalised motives of the Caucasian. Instead of gracefully + flowing lines we find strong rectangular ones; instead of flowers + realistically balanced on interlacing, foliate stalks, they are + arranged separately in formal rows. But if their patterns lack + the fertility of invention or the refinement of Persian and + Indian pieces, they excel them in the strength of their clear + definition, accentuated by massing of colour. It is, however, in + the prayer patterns, which appear in the majority of Asia Minor + rugs, that the weavers attain their best results; for in such + work they have the inspiration of a high religious as well as + artistic spirit. In these patterns, which differ from those of + any other group of rugs, is often manifest singular beauty and + grace, as well as delicate sentiment derived from worship in + Moslem chapels; for in many is represented the burning lamp that, + projected against a background of sacred green, hangs from the + column-supported arch, above which is spread a spandrel of blue + typifying the vaulted heavens.</p> + + <p>Likewise many of the small designs that are found in other + groups of rugs are rarely, if ever, seen in this one; as, for + instance, animals, birds, fishes, and human beings are never + employed, on account of the religious prejudice of the Sunnite + Mohammedans, who prevail in the country. Nor, with very few + exceptions, is the Herati design, so characteristic of Persian + rugs, nor the pear design, so characteristic of both Persian and + Indian rugs, ever seen. Furthermore, the reciprocal trefoil, that + is used as a motive for a small border stripe in all Caucasian + and many Persian rugs, is very rarely found in Asia. Minor pieces + woven during the last two centuries, though it appears in some of + an earlier era. But in its place are the water motive and ribbon, + which are less frequently employed by the weavers of + any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id= + "Page_166">166</a></span> other country. There are also many + small floral motives that appear only in Asia Minor rugs, and + that will be noticed in connection with the separate classes.</p> + + <p>These characteristics of colour, pattern, and design are not + the result of a spontaneous growth unalloyed by foreign + influences; for a natural art never existed in Asia Minor, which + has never enjoyed a national existence; but they are the results + of artistic movements that at different times have swept over + that country. Thus, as an heirloom of dynasties that once + flourished farther east, are the Cufic characters that appear in + some of the early border patterns; and as a relic of the Mongol + and Timurid invasions are the dragon and other designs found in + the oldest pieces. In Oushaks, as well as others, are seen the + evidences of Persian treatment; while the drawing and colour + schemes of the prayer rugs forcibly suggest Saracenic, Grecian, + and Christian ideas. In fact, the rugs of Asia Minor, while + possessing co-ordination of colour and design, are in a measure + composite. They never reach the high artistic development of + Persian rugs, because the latter were produced under the + fostering care of great kings whose royal magnificence could + secure from years of patient labour suitable furnishings for + palaces and mosques; yet they are none the less interesting + subjects for speculation and study.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Bergamos</span>.—In the + valley of the Caïcus and twenty miles from the Ægean + Sea is the city of Pergamus, that gives its name to the Bergamo + rugs. It is of unknown antiquity, and may have stood when + Agamemnon was warring with the house of Priam before the walls of + that other city of the same name. In turn, Persians, Macedonians, + Thracians, Syrians, and Romans had taken possession of it before + the Apostle Paul founded there one of the seven churches of Asia. + Greek sculptors chiselled its monuments, philosophers taught + beneath the shade of its trees, and scholars gathered there the + library that rivalled that of Alexandria. Partly encircled by + mountains and enclosed by the wall of this old city, that was + wellnigh destroyed during the Turkish wars, is the modern city of + some fifteen thousand inhabitants. It is to-day one of the + flourishing cities of the Levant, yet only in the surrounding + ruins is there any reminder of its former greatness and + splendour. But in these crumbling relics of the past and in the + excellence of its woven fabrics of more recent times are traces + of the artistic spirit that once prevailed there.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p37" id="p37"></a><img src="images/plate37.jpg" + width="550" height="739" alt="Plate 37. Anatolian Prayer Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 37. Anatolian + Prayer Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id= + "Page_167">167</a></span></p> + + <p>It is still possible to obtain many good specimens of Bergamos + representing the craftsmanship of fifty or more years ago, when + aniline dyes and European patterns were unknown east of the + Hellespont. Almost without exception they are sterling fabrics + that glory in a wealth of colour accentuated by depth of pile and + sheen of soft lustrous wool. An observer is at once impressed by + the tones of deep blue and madder red that a few lines or patches + of ivory white bring out more clearly, and forms a favourable + estimate of the value of these pieces independently of the + drawing, which seems subservient to the part of giving spirit and + quality to the colour scheme. In fact, it is to the genius of the + dyer who applies his knowledge to the tinting of carefully + selected wool, and to the pains of the weaver in constructing the + foundation of warp and weft rather than to his skill in arranging + artistic designs, that these pieces command as high a price as + old Kirmans of similar age.</p> + + <p>In two particulars Bergamos differ from most Asia Minor rugs: + in shape they are nearly square, and prayer rugs are the + exception rather than the rule. Nor do all the prayer rugs follow + the same general pattern, as is usually the case with other + classes. They may have low tent-shaped arches like those of + Daghestans, high triangular arches with stepped sides and a panel + above the spandrels as in the Kir-Shehrs, or they may have shapes + unlike those of any other class. Moreover, the pieces not used as + prayer rugs also have great diversity of pattern; but as a rule + some large figure, as a medallion, occupies the centre of the + field. Very frequently it is of hexagonal shape, with the sides + at upper and lower ends of the rug serrated or fringed with + latch-hooks. As is not the case with many of the Persian rugs, + the field surrounding the medallion is almost always covered with + small designs, arranged with careful precision so as to show a + perfect balance with reference to the centre. Eight-pointed stars + and other geometric figures are frequently used, but there is a + leaning to floral designs, which, however, are often so + conventionalised as almost to lose their identity. Most prominent + of these is the Rhodian lily and the pomegranate; but the lily + never shows such graceful drawing or such dainty colouring as in + the Kulahs, and in some pieces even loses all resemblance to a + floral form. The pomegranate, which suggests the Ladik, is more + frequently seen in the main border stripe. Undulating vines do + not find favour among the Bergamo weavers, and small isolated + geometric designs are largely employed in the narrow border + stripes, while<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id= + "Page_168">168</a></span> larger, more complex figures often + replace the floral in the main stripe.</p> + + <p>In no other class of rugs are so many and such painstaking + devices to avert the spell of the evil eye. Should an unexpected + visitor surprise the weaver while at work, he may be required to + part with a bit of his frock, which is then attached to the wide + web of the end; should a similar occurrence of ill omen follow, + another bit of different material and colour may be sewn upon + this; and as a crowning talisman, a button may be affixed to + both. Small cowrie shells from the Ægean shores are often + used for such purposes; and now and then may be seen a woollen + tassel dangling from the centre or from one of the ends of the + rug.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red + and blue, with minor quantities of yellow, white, and green. + <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five and one + half to nine; perpendicularly, seven to eleven. The rows of knots + are pressed down, so that the warp is concealed at back. + <i>Warp</i>, wool; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is + equally prominent at back. <i>Weft</i>, wool of fine diameter, + dyed red. A thread of weft crosses from two to six times between + every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool; generally of medium + length but frequently long. <i>Border</i>, from one to four + stripes; most frequently of three. <i>Sides</i>, a weft selvage + of two, three, or four cords, coloured red or blue, with + occasionally some green or yellow. <i>Both ends</i>, a web, that + is sometimes six or seven inches wide, coloured red and crossed + by broad longitudinal stripes, which are generally blue, but may + be black, white, brown, or yellow. Some device to avert the evil + eye is frequently attached to the webs. Beyond the web is a + tasselled warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, moderately firm. + <i>Weave</i> at back is of fine grain. <i>Usual length</i>, three + to seven feet. <i>Usual width</i>, three quarters to nine tenths + length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Ghiordes</span>.—Whether, + as has been maintained, the town of Ghiordes, that lies a + day’s journey to the east of Pergamus, is on the site of + the ancient Gordium where tradition says the father of Midas + dedicated his chariot to Jupiter, and Alexander severed the bark + which bound the pole to the yoke, it claims attention from the + fact that the rugs woven there one and two centuries ago not only + excelled similar products in all other parts of Asia Minor, but + equalled the best fabrics woven in Persia during the same period. + Indeed, a few connoisseurs would rank them still higher; yet with + reference <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id= + "Page_169">169</a></span>to technique of weave and delicacy of + colour and drawing, very few should be classed with those woven + in the previous century by the protégés of Tamasp + and Shah Abbas.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p38" id="p38"></a><img src="images/plate38.jpg" + width="550" height="706" alt="Plate 38. Mudjar Prayer Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 38. Mudjar Prayer + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>So essentially do the modern rugs of the Ghiordes district + differ from the old pieces in weave, colour, and pattern, and so + great is their inferiority, that they have little interest; but + fortunately it is still possible to purchase pieces from + seventy-five to one hundred and fifty years of age, and others + still older are in the hands of collectors or in museums. In + determining their age the colours and drawing, as well as weave + and pattern, are important indices. For instance, the reddish + tones of the fields of pieces less than a century old have a + pinkish or even magenta tinge, while in the oldest the red is of + rich, deep colour. Similarly, in the case of blues, greens, + yellows, and even the ivories that rarely occupy the field, a + riper and richer colour marks the greater age. Likewise with the + drawing, greater painstaking and higher artistic skill are + apparent in the older rugs; though in some of the oldest the + designs are less ornate than in those of a subsequent period. + This is also true of the patterns as a whole; since the best + types are found in rugs that are probably from one hundred and + fifty to two hundred and fifty years old, whereas in the + extremely old pieces there is an approach to archaic forms.</p> + + <p>The difference between the odjaliks and namazliks, which are + the kinds most frequently seen, is most noticeable. The colours, + to be sure, are much the same, though as a rule lighter and + duller tones predominate in the odjaliks. Their borders show a + greater tendency to use geometric figures, some of which are + profusely fringed with latch-hooks suggestive of Caucasian + influences. They also contain archaic designs believed to be + associated with sun worship, as well as many floral forms common + to the prayer rugs. It is, however, in the fields that the + distinction is most noticeable; since the large masses of uniform + colour that make the namazliks so effective are wanting, and + instead are frequently seen hexagonal-shaped medallions that are + fringed with large rounded latch-hooks and contain a lozenge or + other geometric design in the centre. At both ends of the fields + are sometimes narrow panels containing quasi-floral forms, and + stiff conventions occupy the intervening corner spaces.</p> + + <p>In striking contrast to these odjaliks are the old Ghiordes + prayer rugs, with the rich tones of solid colour in the fields + and the delicate drawing of the borders. No doubt they were made + with unusual care, since they were intended for religious + purposes. The pattern<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id= + "Page_170">170</a></span> represents an entrance into a mosque; + and it is not improbable that some of the earliest rugs were + copied directly from archways, many of which still exist in + Mohammedan countries.<a name="FNanchor_29" id= + "FNanchor_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">29</a> + Near the base of all Ghiordes arches, at each side, is a + shoulder, which in old pieces was supported by a single pilaster + or a pair. Sometimes these were ornamented with scroll work or + floral forms, but finally many of them degenerated into floral + devices that bore slight resemblance to columns, and in other + rugs they have entirely disappeared. In some very old pieces the + shoulders and the mihrab were rounded, but as a rule the + shoulders are flattened at a very obtuse angle; and the mihrab is + either plain or has stepped sides that culminate in a blunted + apex. To further suggest the sacred purposes of the rug a lamp is + often suspended from the niche, though floral forms may take its + place, and not infrequently these too are wanting. Almost without + exception some reminder of the tree of life, such as the small + floral sprig or the Rhodian lily, is projected from the inner + side of the arch and from all sides of the border against the + field. In the spandrel, also, is almost invariably some floral or + leaf form; though these may be very much conventionalised or even + supplanted by geometric figures. Above the spandrel is a panel, + which may contain some floral form, scroll device, or verse from + the Koran; and another panel, though generally with different + design, is almost invariably placed beneath the field. A scroll + resembling a large S (Plate <a href="#po">O</a>, Fig. 9, Page + 291) frequently appears in these panels. Its resemblance to forms + found in Armenian dragon carpets of earlier centuries is very + noticeable.</p> + + <p>The border surrounding the field is as characteristic of this + class as is the prayer arch. There are invariably a number of + stripes, which generally consist of a wide central one, two + secondary, and two or more small guard stripes. The drawing is + distinctly floral, yet is widely different from the Persian. A + design (Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 1, opp. Page 192) + frequently seen in the central stripe represents a large palmette + or rosette partly surrounded by leaves, suggestive of the Herati + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id= + "Page_171">171</a></span> design, and connected by tendrils with + more delicate flowers or leaves. But the more usual design (Plate + <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 3) consists of flowers and fruits that + are arranged in quadrangular shape, so that the alternate units + face in different directions as they extend around the border. + Though it is far from naturalistic, its delicate lace-like + drawing with clear definition and its tones in harmony with the + central field, contribute largely to the beauty of the rug. The + secondary stripes have generally repetitive leaf forms; and + running through the guard stripes is a simple vine, ribbon, or + wave design. Occasionally, however, the typical Ghiordes border + is replaced by one borrowed from the near district of Kulah, and + instead of the broad central stripe are several narrow parallel + stripes studded by perpendicular rows of small floral figures + (Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 12). An unusual feature of these + rugs is the linen nap which is sometimes used in the field + instead of wool, for the reason that it retains its colour while + wool darkens with age; and another is the silken fringe which is + often seen at the corners of fine specimens. The nap is always + short, and the rugs are closely woven.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + blue, yellow, and white. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch + horizontally seven to twelve; perpendicularly, eight to sixteen. + The rows of knots are pressed down, so that the warp is concealed + and the weft is partly hidden at back. <i>Warp</i>, wool or + cotton and in a few pieces raw silk. One of the two threads + encircled by a knot is usually slightly depressed below the other + at the back. <i>Weft</i>, wool or cotton. A thread of weft + crosses twice between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, + and occasionally some cotton, clipped very short so as to be + harsh to the touch. <i>Border</i>, six to nine stripes. + <i>Sides</i>, a weft selvage of two or three cords, or only + infrequently an added selvage of silk. <i>Both ends</i>, a narrow + web and warp fringe. A few pieces have an added silk fringe at + the corners. <i>Texture</i>, firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of + very fine grain, but slightly rough. <i>Usual length</i>, five to + seven feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two thirds to three quarters + length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Kulahs</span>.—About + fifty miles from Ghiordes, in a southeasterly direction, is the + Turkish village of Kulah. Both places are surrounded by the same + general character of hills and plains, and for the last several + centuries the people of each have been subject to the same + influences of race and religion. They have undoubtedly visited, + intermarried, and become familiar with the arts and crafts of + one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id= + "Page_172">172</a></span> another. It is not, therefore, + surprising that some of their rugs should have similar technique + of weave, and that a few resemble one another in general pattern + and small designs. Moreover, such a close correspondence exists + between many of the old rugs of both districts, that even the + most experienced are sometimes at a loss to distinguish between + them. In fact it is surprising that there is so marked a + distinction between most of them. In the Kulahs the border + designs are not so elaborately drawn, nor are the prayer arches + so high. They have rarely the fringe that adorns the corners of + some Ghiordes rugs, or more than one panel. The field usually + contains floral figures, arranged in formal order; the spandrel + is almost always extended in two narrow stripes, one at each side + of the field; and the colours are always subdued. These and other + characteristics of each class make it possible to distinguish + between most of them.</p> + + <p>As is the case with Ghiordes rugs, sedjadehs are almost + unknown; but it is not unusual to see odjaliks. These resemble + prayer rugs in the following respects: the borders are almost + identical; the central fields contain the same floral figures + resting on a similarly coloured ground; both ends of the + hexagonal-shaped field resemble a mihrab; and the space between + the field and border is covered with designs peculiar to the + spandrels of the prayer rugs.</p> + + <p>On account of their artistic drawing and soft colours the + prayer rugs are favourite pieces with all collectors. It is true + that the arch is flatter than that of any other rug of this + group, and is defined either by plain sloping lines, or more + frequently by stepped edges, so that it lacks the classic beauty + of the Ghiordes type; but on the other hand the Rhodian lily and + other floral forms characteristic of these pieces are delineated + with a realism and graceful delicacy that are unequalled in any + other Asia Minor rugs. Arranged on slender sprays along each side + of the field, hanging as long clusters from the niche in place of + a lamp, or placed on the panel in formal rows, they accentuate + with their bright tones the subdued richness of the ground + colours. Sometimes, however, these simple field designs are + replaced by more formal drawings that represent a plat of land + with a tomb shaded by a tall cypress and other trees with many + leafy branches. Rugs with these designs are not uncommon in + Germany, whither large quantities of Asia Minor prayer rugs were + shipped many years ago, and where they are known as + “Friedhofteppiche,” or “Grave Rugs,”</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p39" id="p39"></a><img src="images/plate39.jpg" + width="550" height="557" alt="Plate 39. Daghestan Prayer Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 39. Daghestan + Prayer Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>The most pleasing features are in the fields, but the most + distinguishing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id= + "Page_173">173</a></span> features are in the borders, + which are invariably of several stripes. Instead of the large + central stripe with floral and repetitive designs common to most + rugs is a series of parallel bands, from five to ten in number + and about an inch in width, that contain rows of minute floral + forms. These narrow bands are a distinguishing feature of the + Kulahs, though they have occasionally been copied by the Ghiordes + weavers. Nevertheless, they are sometimes replaced by the broad + stripe containing rows of geometric-shaped designs, as in Plate + <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 13 (opp. Page 192), which also are + peculiar to these rugs. Strange as it may seem, these designs + have doubtless been derived from leaf forms by successive + degradation, as will be seen by comparing Figs. 13a, 13b, 13c, + and 13d of Plate <a href="#po">O</a> (Page 291). There is still + another border design that is so constantly found in the + secondary stripe of these pieces and so rarely in any others that + it might well be designated the “Kulah stripe” (Plate + <a href="#ph">H</a>, Fig. 10, opp. Page 194). The design consists + of a repetitive figure suggestive of some Chinese device, but is + in reality a degraded form of a vine, as will be seen by + observing some of the very old border stripes. Between the inner + secondary stripe and the field is usually a narrow stripe + containing a continuous ribbon design, or a simple vine-like + form, as in Plate <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 18 (opp. Page 158). + Often a part of each succeeding undulation of the vine has been + omitted and the remaining parts have been compressed, so as to + leave small detached figures like a row of + “f’s,” as in Plate <a href="#ph">H</a>, Fig. 2. + It is not unusual to see both vine and detached figures in the + same rug.</p> + + <p>Diversity prevails in the colours of field, spandrel, panel, + and borders. In the field is generally a mellowed red, or a + yellow tint that is described both as golden brown and apricot; + blue also is occasionally seen, and white is very rare. But + whatever the colour of the field, that of the spandrel is + generally a light blue, indicative of the sky, and the overlying + panel is frequently a dark blue. Green and brown often appear in + the border, as well as a canary yellow peculiar to Asia Minor + rugs. Moreover, a few of these pieces have a single small area of + red or blue, that was doubtless inserted to avert the evil eye, + since it shows no more relation to the surrounding colours than + spilt ink might have; yet in spite of these contrasts and the + fact that the nap lacks the lustre peculiar to many other + classes, some of them are as beautiful as Ghiordes.</p> + + <p>Between these old fabrics and the modern, which factory-like + are produced in large quantities to meet the demands of a + Western<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id= + "Page_174">174</a></span> market and taste, is the most + noticeable difference, for the latter are inferior to the former + in patterns, weave, and dyes. Furthermore, with the wool of many + is mixed mohair, so that rapid deterioration follows slight + usage.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + brownish yellow, and blue, with minor quantities of green, dark + brown, and white. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes, Knots to inch + horizontally five to ten; perpendicularly, seven to twelve. The + rows of knots are not firmly pressed down. <i>Warp</i>, wool; one + of the two threads encircled by a knot is noticeably depressed at + the back. <i>Weft</i>, in most rugs, of wool of medium diameter, + sometimes dyed yellow. A thread of weft crosses twice between + every two rows of knots. In other rugs, even very old, the weft + consists of a coarse thread of jute crossing once between two + rows of knots and alternating with a small thread of jute and + another of wool crossing side by side once between the next two + rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of short or medium length. + <i>Border</i>, six to nine stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a coloured + mixed selvage of two, three, or four cords. <i>Both ends</i>, a + coloured web and warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, loose. <i>Weave</i> + at back is of moderately coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, five + to seven feet. <i>Usual width</i>, three fifths to three quarters + length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Oushaks</span>.—Fifty + miles eastward from Kulah is the city of Oushak, famous during + the XV and XVI Centuries for the carpets exported thence to + Europe to adorn the halls of cathedrals and thrones of monarchs. + But with the subsequent decadence in Asiatic art its glory ebbed, + so that half a century ago it was but a small mud-housed city + known for the excellence of its dyes and the wool which was taken + there from the interior to be washed, spun, and then sold to the + weavers of the surrounding country. Since then, however, its + population has steadily grown, and the weaving industry has + thrived, until now it is one of the most populous cities of Asia + Minor, with looms more numerous than those of any other city. The + weaving is done entirely by women and girls, most of whom are + Mohammedans. Though they live principally in private houses, they + are under the direction of large firms, who furnish the wool as + well as the patterns, which are in accordance with European and + American demands.</p> + + <p>Important distinctions exist between the different grades of + these rugs. Some are known as “Turkish Kirmans,” in + which Persian designs are frequently introduced, others are of + still finer workman<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id= + "Page_175">175</a></span>ship, but the oldest and coarsest pieces + were formerly known as “Yapraks.” These are + distinguishable by their strong colours of red, green, and blue, + of which only two as a rule are seen in a single rug, and are + massed to produce striking effects. Their foundation of warp and + weft, which are dyed in the same colours, is loosely woven and + often of an inferior grade of wool. Many of them are too large + and heavy for domestic use, but are well adapted for salons and + public halls.</p> + + <p>With such slight variations in pattern and none in colour, + Oushaks would be of little interest were it not that their + prototypes were striking pieces woven by artisans whom Sultan + Solyman the Magnificent brought from the northwestern part of + Persia, when he conquered it in the XVI Century. Some of them + appear in the paintings of old masters, and when contrasted with + the modern fabrics indicate how great is the decline in the + craftsmanship of the weavers. Of the beautiful well-balanced + designs once represented in the fields, only large stars and + diamonds, defined by less pleasing lines and placed with less + regularity, remain. All of the graceful arabesques and dainty + floral motives that appeared as sub-patterns are omitted. As + works of art, the modern products are little esteemed; but their + durability, depth of pile, and wealth of colour make them + excellent objects of utility.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + blue, and green. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch + horizontally four to eight; perpendicularly, four to nine. A half + knot, as it appears at back, is longer than wide. The rows of + knots are not closely pressed down. <i>Warp</i>, wool. Each of + the two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back, + or one is slightly depressed below the other. <i>Weft</i>, wool + of medium diameter and generally dyed red. A thread of weft + crosses twice between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, + clipped long. <i>Border</i>, usually of three stripes. + <i>Sides</i>, generally a double overcasting, occasionally a + selvage. <i>Both ends</i>, generally a web coloured red and a + warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, very loose. <i>Weave</i> at back is + of moderately coarse grain. <i>Length</i>, carpet sizes. <i>Usual + width</i>, two thirds to four fifths length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Ak-hissar</span>.—Almost + seventy-five miles by rail from Smyrna and a short distance to + the west of Ghiordes is the Turkish town of Ak-Hissar, the White + Citadel. Even before the building of the railroad rugs were woven + in this district; and in recent years the<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span> + work-house system has been established, and large quantities, + that bear some resemblance to the modern products of Kulah and + Oushak, have been exported.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Demirdji</span>.—Half a + century ago the town of Demirdji was almost uninhabited; but as a + result of the Occidental demand for Oriental rugs and the + disappearance of old pieces, it has grown to be an important + manufacturing centre. Many of its weavers learned their trade at + the historic Ghiordes, which is about twenty-five miles distant; + but the fabrics are more closely woven and the wool is more + carefully selected than is the case with the modern Ghiordes.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Kutayah</span>.—On the + main railroad that will eventually connect the Bosphorus with the + Euphrates is the town of Kutayah. As it is on the edge of the + Anatolian plateau, wool and goat’s hair have been for a + long period important articles in its trade. Both of them are now + used in the local manufacture of rugs, which in a measure + resemble the products of Oushak.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Smyrna</span>.—The + location of Smyrna on a magnificent harbour and its connection by + rail with all the important rug districts of the interior, have + made it the principal centre for the export trade in Asia Minor + rugs. Many of the people are also largely engaged in the industry + of weaving, but almost all weavers are now in the employ of large + companies who furnish the materials and patterns. As a result, + the Smyrna rugs are mere copies of well-known types of other + Turkish pieces, or, as is generally the case, of stereotyped + patterns that have been evolved to meet the requirements of + European and American tastes. Many of the rugs, to be sure, are + well woven and serviceable, but they lack individuality of + character.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Melez</span>.—About + seventy-five miles to the south of Smyrna and twenty from the + Mediterranean Sea is the town of Melassa, or Melez. It is now + little known, but was once the market place of an important + rug-producing district, which included a large part of the + classic province of Caria. Accordingly, the pieces that came from + there were sometimes called Carian, but are more generally known + as Melez.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> + <a name="p40" id="p40"></a><img src="images/plate40.jpg" + width="400" height="823" alt="Plate 40. Kabistan Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 40. Kabistan + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>On their face they show a close relationship to the + Anatolians, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id= + "Page_177">177</a></span>and also, though in a less degree, to + many other Asia Minor rugs; yet as is to be expected of the + products from one corner of the country, they have a distinct + individuality in both pattern and colour. Occasionally an old + piece is seen, in which the border is very narrow and the whole + field is covered with parallel stripes on which are + systematically arranged geometric and semi-floral forms; but as a + rule the fields are not much wider, and often less wide, than + each of the adjacent borders. Within this central space are + frequently arranged prominent designs, which are widely different + from the designs of any other rugs, and are suggestive of Chinese + ornament, but were doubtless derived from floral or tree forms + (Plate <a href="#po">O</a>, Fig. 12, Page 291). Moreover, + projecting in regular order from the alternate sides of the + narrow border stripe, next to the field, are sometimes seen + thumb-like figures, that fit against one another like the cogs of + a wheel (Plate <a href="#ph">H</a>, Fig. 15, opp. Page 194). Each + of these features, though not always present, is peculiar to this + class.</p> + + <p>Of the several border stripes, the central is generally as + wide as the remainder and not altogether dissimilar to that of + the Ladiks. Very frequently it consists of a row of palmettes + between which are conventionalised leaves and flowers on slender + stems; but now and then the palmettes are replaced by + eight-pointed stars or other geometric figures, and the + intervening spaces filled with corresponding designs. The + secondary stripes are of a pronounced Caucasian type; and almost + invariably in a smaller tertiary stripe is represented a waving + line or the reciprocal sawtooth.</p> + + <p>The prayer rugs are equally characteristic. In typical + examples the lines defining the mihrab descend from the niche to + meet the sides of the narrow field at an angle of forty-five + degrees, and are then deflected towards its centre, to return + again to its sides. The resulting drawing shows two equilateral + triangles on each side of the field at the base of the mihrab, + which in conjunction with the upper sides of the triangles has + the appearance of an incomplete diamond. This effect, moreover, + is frequently accentuated by a perpendicular row of diamonds + extending from just below the niche to the base of the field. The + sides of mihrab, field, and central designs are, as a rule, + fringed with small geometric or conventionalised floral forms; + and in the spacious spandrel are more realistic floral designs + arranged on a trellis-like sub-pattern.</p> + + <p>This individuality of pattern is accompanied by a less marked + yet noticeable individuality of colour scheme. As is the case + with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id= + "Page_178">178</a></span> many Bergamos, the principal tone is a + dark red, which generally appears in the central field, and is + also used almost without exception in the broad end webs, the + side selvages, and the threads of weft. Ivory white for the + spandrel, some yellow and green for the borders, are common + colours; but the one that rarely appears in any appreciable + quantity in other rugs is a characteristic tone of lavender or + mauve, which is present in almost every old Melez. Not always are + these tones pleasing, as many of the rugs have been poorly dyed; + but there are other pieces, now rapidly growing scarce, of which + the colours are exceedingly rich and harmonious.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + with minor quantities of blue, yellow, white, and some mauve. + <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five to eight; + perpendicularly, six to eleven. A half knot, as it appears at + back, is as long as wide or slightly longer. The rows of knots + are not closely pressed down, yet the warp does not show at back. + <i>Warp</i>, wool; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is + equally prominent at back. <i>Weft</i>, wool of small diameter, + dyed blue or red. A thread of weft generally crosses four times + between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium + length and sometimes short. <i>Border</i>, wide, from three to + seven stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a selvage of two to four cords, + usually coloured red. <i>Lower end</i>, a red web and loose warp + fringe. <i>Upper end</i>, a red web, a braided selvage, and loose + warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, moderately loose. <i>Weave</i> at + back is of slightly coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, four and + one half to six feet. <i>Usual width</i>, three fifths to three + quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Isbarta.</span>—In the + town of Isbarta in the southern part of the province of Konieh + are woven rugs which are sometimes known to the trade as + “Spartas.” Like many other pieces made to meet the + Western demand, they lack spontaneous individuality, but are + often of excellent quality and coloured in delicate tones, + arranged harmoniously.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Rhodian.</span>—Even at a + very early period the people of the islands bordering the + southwestern coast of Asia Minor produced textile fabrics that + rivalled many of the best products of the mainland. None of them + were more beautiful or more interesting than those which came + from the Island of Rhodes, where were blended the vigorous + Grecian and the more subtle Oriental arts. Here was the + inspi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id= + "Page_179">179</a></span>ration of the sea, cloudless skies, + luxuriant vegetation. Here was felt the deep influence of the + Mohammedan and Christian religions, as well as an early pagan + mythology; and there is little doubt that the cathedral walls and + picturesque church of the valiant knights of St. John made an + impression on the weavers. It is not surprising, therefore, that + the fabrics should be of deep, rich colour full of suggestion, + and that the drawing of the long central panels should remind one + of cathedral windows.</p> + + <p>Of the many beautiful rugs formerly woven in Rhodes only a few + now remain, and these are generally in the hands of collectors. + Some are odjaliks, some namazliks, some sedjadehs; but all, with + the exception of a few crude and coarsely woven pieces, have + colours and weave that bespeak a ripe age, amounting in many + instances to one hundred years or more. On the field of odjaliks + are represented as a rule the usual hexagonal figure with two + sides at each end forming a triangle; and on the fields of the + namazliks are prayer arches which, though characteristic, never + equal the graceful drawing seen in Ghiordes rugs. It is the + sedjadehs that awaken the greatest interest, as they have some + striking peculiarities rarely seen in rugs of the mainland.</p> + + <p>Their field is divided into two or three panels that extend + almost the full length of the field, and terminate at one end in + flat and often serrated arches. The spandrels are small; and + placed transversely above them is a low panel, that contains + designs of mechanically drawn leaves, vandykes resembling those + of Ladiks, and other figures common to Asia Minor rugs. In fact, + these pieces at once suggest prayer rugs containing two or more + prayer arches, but the pattern is generally regarded as a + representation of cathedral windows. Both colouring and designs + give force to this idea. In each of the principal panels is a + different ground colour, as red, blue, or green, which is never + gaudy, yet exceedingly rich on account of the depth of pile; and + in the overlying figures there is often a strangely contrasting + splendour of brighter colouring. Furthermore, one of the most + usual of these designs, arranged like pole medallions, consists + of large eight-pointed stars with effulgent rays of brilliant + hues. As we look at some of the rare old pieces with this + pattern, cathedral windows almost appear before us with bright + sunshine streaming in golden rays through the stained glass and + brightening the interior with its more sombre tones of “dim + religious light.” Sometimes the pole design is modified so + as to suggest a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id= + "Page_180">180</a></span> tree of life extending from one end of + the panel to the other. An equally common design represents six + very mechanically drawn leaves assembled in the form of a + medallion (Plate <a href="#po">O</a>, Fig. 15, Page 291). Each of + these leaves has two straight edges meeting at right angles and + containing at the corner a small rectangular spot; but the + remaining sides that form the circumference of the medallion are + deeply serrated, so as to produce much the same effect as the + rays of effulgent stars. In the fields are also frequently seen + latch-hooks, and occasionally checkerboards with different + colours for separate squares.</p> + + <p>Between field and border is a close correspondence in both + colours and small designs. The latter consist principally of + geometric and semi-floral forms, as eight-pointed stars, the + octagonal disc, and the geometric leaf that is typical of Kulah + rugs. No other design is more prevalent than the last, which may + be found in all parts of these rugs. Sometimes it is drawn most + realistically so as to resemble the flower forms so common in + spandrels of Kulahs; but again the outlines are most conventional + with square-like projections at the edges and a bar of underlying + field of contrasting colour crossing the face diagonally, as in + the border stripe of Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 13, (opp. + Page 192), which shows the foliate origin of the latter.</p> + + <p>The name “Makri” is frequently applied to these + rugs, since they were often bought in the city of that name, + which is one of the harbours of Southwestern Asia Minor nearest + to Rhodes.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red + and blue, also considerable yellow, green, and white. + <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five to eight; + perpendicularly, seven to nine. The rows of knots are not firmly + pressed down, so that the warp shows in places at back. + <i>Warp</i>, wool; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is + equally prominent at back, occasionally one to each knot is + slightly depressed below the other. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of medium + diameter, coloured red. A thread of warp usually crosses twice + between every two rows of knots, rarely only once, and sometimes + as many as four times. <i>Pile</i>, wool, clipped long. + <i>Border</i>, two to three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a double + selvage of two, three, or four cords, usually coloured red or + blue. <i>Lower end</i>, a web, either red or of several colours, + and long warp fringe hanging loose or braided. <i>Upper end</i>, + a web, either red or of several colours, beyond which is often a + heavy braided selvage; also a long warp fringe hanging loose or + braided. <i>Texture</i>, moderately loose. <i>Weave</i> at back + is of slightly <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id= + "Page_181">181</a></span>coarse grain. <i>Length</i>, four to + seven feet. <i>Width</i>, three fifths to four fifths length.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> + <a name="p41" id="p41"></a><img src="images/plate41.jpg" + width="350" height="786" alt="Plate 41. Kuba Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 41. Kuba + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Broussa.</span>—At the + base of Mt. Olympus and distant only twenty-five miles from the + Sea of Marmora, with which it is connected by rail, is the city + of Broussa. By reason of this location and its proximity to + Constantinople, it is an important commercial centre; and on + account of the excellence of the wool and silk obtained in the + surrounding country, rugs are woven here for foreign markets. The + fabrics are stoutly made and compare favourably with those of + Smyrna.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Hereke.</span>—In the + town of Hereke, on the Sea of Marmora, is a Turkish factory, + where large numbers of silk rugs are manufactured. Most of the + silk is obtained in the immediate neighbourhood and from the + country about Mt. Olympus. As the early weavers were brought from + Kirman to instruct the artisans of the Sultan, and the patterns + have been largely copied from old Persian and Asia Minor pieces, + it is not surprising that many of the fabrics compare favourably + with the silk rugs of Persia.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Koniehs.</span>—At the + base of Mt. Taurus and overlooking the salt desert of Central + Asia Minor is the city of Konieh. Within its present walls is all + that is left of the ancient Iconium that opened its gates to + Xenophon, Cyrus, and Alexander, but drove forth the Apostle Paul. + Finally it surrendered to Seljukian conquerors, who, realising + the importance of its situation on one of the great highways + between east and west and in an oasis of well-watered fields, + orchards, and gardens which face a great barren plain, + established there a Mussulman capital, that became noted for its + opulence and culture. In later years it successfully resisted the + assault of Frederic Barbarossa; but subsequently it declined, + until now the only remaining vestiges of its former importance + are several colleges, one hundred mosques, and the famous green + tower surmounting the tomb of the whirling dervishes.</p> + + <p>In few other cities of Asia Minor were greater inducements + offered to the rug weavers. Surrounding them lay hills and plains + that produced sheep with soft, fine fleeces. On the oaks that + grew not far to the north lived the kermes, from which were + obtained the vermilion dyes famous even through Persia. The + political and com<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id= + "Page_182">182</a></span>mercial importance of the city, as well + as the religious fanaticism of the people, aided them. + Accordingly a great many choice pieces were formerly woven there, + but on account of the remoteness of the city from the markets + that supplied Europe, few found their way into channels of + trade.</p> + + <p>Large numbers were used solely for religious purposes, but + other kinds are as frequently seen. All of them contain both + geometric and floral forms. The geometric forms resemble designs + prevalent in Eastern Anatolia and in Caucasia, such as + latch-hooks, eight-pointed stars, and barber-pole stripes; and + the floral forms consist of mechanically drawn palm leaves and + the tree-of-life design.</p> + + <p>Probably in no other Asia Minor rug is such latitude in the + drawing of the prayer arch. Sometimes it begins below the middle + of the field and rises at a sharp angle to a point near the upper + end; again it may be exceedingly flat; but generally it has the + same pitch as the arches of Kulahs, and, like them, the sides, as + a rule, are stepped or serrated. Furthermore, it is not unusual + to see latch-hooks projecting from each step or serration into + the spandrel, which is filled with small floral and geometric + forms. From the niche is occasionally suspended a lamp; and + arranged against the border, on each side of the field, is a row + of conventionalised flowers, or small sprigs which resemble three + triangular-shaped petals at the end of a straight stem. These + floral or foliate designs are one of the most constant features + of this class. The borders are more geometric than those of + almost any other Asia Minor rugs, and even when vines are + represented they are drawn with stiff formality.</p> + + <p>Whatever may be lacking in artistic drawing is frequently + atoned for by the excellence of the colour scheme, which + occasionally rivals that of the Ghiordes and Kulahs. Rich reds or + blues are almost invariably found in the fields, where there is + sufficient depth of nap to enhance their richness; and the + borders are brightened by attractive tones of yellow, green, and + white. Contrasted with these old pieces, the modern rugs of + Konieh have little artistic merit, but are large pieces desirable + solely for their durability.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red + and blue, with minor quantities of yellow, green, and white. + <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five to eight; + perpendicularly, six to ten. The rows of knots are not very + firmly pressed down. <i>Warp</i>, wool; each of the two threads + encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back. <i>Weft</i>, + wool, of medium diameter, dyed red. A thread of weft + crosses<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id= + "Page_183">183</a></span> twice between every two rows of knots. + <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium length. <i>Border</i>, from two to + five stripes, with frequently an outer edging. <i>Sides</i>, + generally a selvage of two or three cords, but occasionally an + overcasting. <i>Both ends</i>, a web and warp fringe. + <i>Texture</i>, only moderately firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of + slightly coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, four and one half to + six feet. <i>Usual width</i>, three fifths to three quarters + length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Ladiks.</span>—On the + ruins of ancient Laodicea is the mud-walled town of the village + of Ladik, once the centre of an important rug industry. Among the + surrounding hills are still woven pieces which resemble in + pattern, though they poorly imitate in weave and colour, the + early prototypes that have been classed among the masterpieces of + Asia Minor. Few of these old rugs remain, and they are often + badly worn in spots; yet they display tones mellowed by the touch + of more than a century, and rival the Ghiordes in beauty of + design.</p> + + <p>As is the case with other classes of rugs woven in Turkish + countries, the sedjadehs and odjaliks lack the interesting + details of the namazliks, from which they widely differ. On the + central fields of many of them are oblong hexagonal-shaped + medallions, often three in number, that contain designs of stars + or other geometric figures. Between the fields and the borders of + the ends are generally spacious panels, on which are represented + rows of vandykes. These figures are one of the most permanent + characteristics of this class of rugs; and though their origin is + uncertain, it is not improbable that they are derived from + arrowheads, which were one of the emblems of the Chaldean deity + Hoa, the reputed inventor of Cufic writing. The borders are also + geometric, consisting, as a rule, of three stripes, of which the + central contains an angular vine that in different pieces may be + very simple or very ornate. One of the central stripes often + adopted is represented in Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 10 + (opp. Page 192) and shows a vine with conventionalised leaf. + Latch-hooks are common in the sedjadehs, and when floral forms + are present the fact is generally disguised by the harsh, + mechanical drawing.</p> + + <p>In contrast with these pieces, the namazliks with their + interesting arches and dainty drawing are most pleasing. In a + large number of them the central fields occupy about one half the + space within the border, the spandrels extend for a considerable + distance above the arch, and the panels are larger than in any + other prayer rug. Occasionally arches resembling those of the + Ghiordes or Kir-Shehrs<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" + id="Page_184">184</a></span> are seen; but they are to be + regarded merely as copies, since the typical arch differs widely + from any other and gives to this class one of its greatest + charms. Instead of rising to the apex in lines of many + serrations, each side of the arch rises from the border and falls + in one large serration, then rises again to form the niche. The + arch is often fringed with latch-hooks, and extending above the + apex of each serration and the niche are perpendicular devices + that may, also, be a development of the latch-hook, since they + have not been traced to any other satisfactory origin. But + whatever their origin may be, their shape as well as that of the + arch at once suggests Saracenic mosques. In the spandrel are + constantly seen serrated leaves, rosettes, and designs peculiar + to the Ladik. The large panel is equally typical, and consists of + reciprocally drawn vandykes, from which rise perpendicular stems + supporting leaves and pomegranates. These are generally five in + number, and are so gracefully and naturalistically drawn that it + seems surprising that the vandykes, from which they spring, are + ornamented with a profusion of latch-hooks. The central fields + are sometimes without ornament, but as a rule they contain some + suggestions of the tree of life either in the central design or + in the three-leaf sprigs arranged about the borders. The latter + are as characteristic as any other part of the rug, and consist + of four stripes separated by dotted lines. The main stripe most + frequently contains a row of delicately drawn lilies alternating + with rosettes, though occasionally a very formal vine with + conventionalised leaf is substituted for it. In the stripes at + each side are very angular vines with three-cleft leaves, and in + the narrow innermost stripe is generally a ribbon pattern.</p> + + <p>All of the drawing has clear definition accentuated by rich + and strongly contrasting colours. The fields of the namazliks, + like those of the Ghiordes, are entirely occupied by masses of + unshaded blue, red, or brown, that are relieved only by the + colours of superimposed designs. But as is not the case with + Ghiordes, there is often a strong contrast between the colours of + centre and ends; yet the tones are always in perfect harmony. + Other rugs may have more delicate drawing or more exquisite + finish; but in the barbaric arrangement of strong colour and in + the uniqueness of graceful designs, none exceed the old prayer + Ladiks.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p42" id="p42"></a><img src="images/plate42.jpg" + width="500" height="787" alt="Plate 42. Chichi Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 42. Chichi + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red + and blue, with minor quantities of green, yellow, and brown. + <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally nine to twelve; + perpendicularly, ten to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" + id="Page_185">185</a></span>thirteen. A half knot as it appears + at back is longer than wide. The rows of knots are pressed down + so that the warp is concealed at back. <i>Warp</i>, wool. One of + the two threads encircled by a knot is generally depressed below + the other at the back. <i>Weft</i>, wool of fine diameter, + generally dyed red. A thread of weft crosses twice between every + two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium length. + <i>Border</i>, three to five stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a red added + selvage of two or three cords. <i>Both ends</i>, a narrow web and + warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, moderately firm. <i>Weave</i> at + back is of medium grain. <i>Usual length</i>, four and one half + to seven feet. <i>Usual width</i>, three fifths to two thirds + length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Kir-Shehrs.</span>—To the + north of the great salt desert and in the southern part of the + province of Angora is the town of Kir-Shehr. It stands between + two mountain ranges, on which are raised sheep with fine fleeces, + and is on the branch of the Kizil Irmak, whose waters are well + suited for preparing wool for the dyes obtained in the + surrounding country. On account of the excellence of wool, water, + and natural dyes, as well as the remoteness of the town from main + highways of travel, many of the old rugs were excellent pieces, + free from the taint of Western influences, and possessing the + charm of individuality. It was due, moreover, to the fact that + its three or four thousand inhabitants, and the Turkomans who + roamed the surrounding country, rarely felt the influence of + larger cities that they were so untrammelled by + conventionalities. Unhesitatingly they grouped together large + spaces of red, yellow, and blue, as well as grass-coloured green, + for which they had a particular fondness and employed to a + greater extent than almost any other weavers; yet in the case of + these old pieces the artistic sense is rarely shocked, since the + individual colours are good and the tones are harmonious. + Furthermore, the patterns show an unusual blending of floral and + geometric forms.</p> + + <p>Most of the pieces come in moderate sizes; some are mats, + others small sedjadehs, but the choicest are the prayer rugs. The + serrated sides of the arch, which rise at a steep angle from the + centres of each side of the rather narrow fields, are formed of + several parallel lines of different colour. In a not unusual rug, + for instance, eight narrow lines separating the spandrel of + grass-green from the inner field of brick-red appeared in the + following order: red, black, white, yellow, lavender, yellow, + red, and blue. The inmost line is fre<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span>quently + fringed with tri-cleft floral forms, which, as in Koniehs, extend + in a row along the sides of the field. From the niche is usually + suspended the design of an inverted tree of life, and above it + are projected latch-hooks or similar devices. It is not unusual + to see two arches, and there are sometimes as many as four, + placed one within the other. The spacious spandrel that is + continued in narrow stripes along the borders to the bottom of + the field is covered with geometric or conventionalised floral + forms; and the horizontal panel, which may be placed at either + end of the field, contains designs in harmony with the remaining + parts.</p> + + <p>On the whole, the wide borders have some of the most + characteristic features; for, as a rule, not only are one or two + of the stripes of a peculiar cherry red and one a rich yellow, + but three or four of the narrow stripes next to the field are + similar in width and ornamentation to those of the Kulah. When + contrasted with them the broad central stripe and the outer one + seem lacking in harmony, for they are distinctly floral and + suggestive of Persian influences.</p> + + <p>On account of the quality of their wool and weave, these rugs + are soft and flexible. They resemble in some minor details others + of the Anatolian plateau, yet they can be distinguished by the + presence of grass-green colour and the shape of the prayer arch. + The nap of these old pieces, like that of Kulahs and Ladiks, is + of medium length; though in modern pieces it is often longer, and + the weft and webs are coloured as are those of Bergamos.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red + and green, also some blue, brown, and white. Knot, Ghiordes. + <i>Knots</i> to inch horizontally five to nine; perpendicularly, + five to ten. A half knot as it appears at back is as long as, or + longer than, wide. The rows of knots are not firmly pressed down, + so that in places the warp shows. <i>Warp</i>, wool; each of the + two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back, or + occasionally one is slightly depressed. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of + medium or coarse diameter and generally of different colours in + the same rug. A thread of weft crosses from two to six times + between two rows of knots, varying in the same rug. <i>Pile</i>, + wool, of medium length. <i>Border</i>, from five to eight + stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a weft selvage of two, three, or four + cords of different colours. <i>Lower end</i>, web and warp loops. + <i>Upper end</i>, a web and warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, loose. + <i>Weave</i> at back is of coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, + four to six feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two thirds to four fifths + length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id= + "Page_187">187</a></span><span class= + "smcap">Anatolians.</span>—To all of Asia Minor was once + applied the term “Anatolia,” which signifies the Land + of the Rising Sun; so that any product of this country might well + be called Anatolian, just as any product of Persia might be + called Iranian. In fact, many of the less known classes, as the + Nigde, Tuzla, Mudjar, and even the Kir-Shehr, Melez, and Konieh, + are often called Anatolian. But as there is a special type of + rugs known as Iranians, so is there a special type known as + Anatolians. They are, however, a mixed lot, that come from parts + of a wide stretch of territory, extending over the interior + table-land to the home of the Kurds, and incorporating ideas + received from many districts. It is, accordingly, difficult to + define them as a type; but, as a rule, they are small pieces that + are often used for mats and pillows, with moderately long nap of + soft, floccy wool, with narrow borders, and a colour scheme that + inclines to bright and sometimes garish colours.</p> + + <p>Doubtless the best of them come from the provinces of Angora + and Konieh, lying within a radius of one hundred miles of Lake + Tuz Gul. Here can be obtained the best of wool and dyes; and in + some of the old pieces appears the artistic drawing of the more + important rug centres farther to the west, but with a strange + blending of geometric and floral forms. Eight-pointed stars as + well as latch-hooks are seen everywhere, and a very old design + with the shape of ram’s horns is frequently used. In many + of the prayer rugs the arches are of the Kir-Shehr order, though + the panels may contain vandykes suggestive of Ladiks. There is + the greatest latitude in the width of the borders, which + occasionally are their most noticeable feature and again are most + insignificant; but in either case they rarely contain more than + three stripes, and not infrequently only one. Red, blue, green, + and brown are the usual colours, but pink and canary yellow are + sometimes used.</p> + + <p>Farther to the east, among the foot-hills of the Anti-Taurus + mountains, is woven a coarser type by the Kurdish tribes. With + the exception of wool and dyes they have little to their credit; + for their usual unsymmetric shapes, crude geometric designs, long + uneven nap, and braided fringe of warp at the ends are lacking in + all elegance.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + blue, green, brown, and white. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to + inch horizontally five to nine; perpendicularly, six to twelve. A + half knot, as it appears at back, is generally as long as wide, + or longer. The rows of knots are not firmly pressed down, yet the + warp is frequently concealed<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span> at back. <i>Warp</i>, + wool; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is equally + prominent at back. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of medium or coarse + diameter and usually dyed, A thread of weft crosses two, three, + and four times between two rows of knots frequently varying in + the same piece. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium length. + <i>Border</i>, one to three stripes, and occasionally an edging. + <i>Sides</i>, a weft selvage of two or three cords. <i>Both + ends</i>, a web and warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, loose. + <i>Weave</i> at back is of coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, two + and one half to six feet. <i>Usual width</i>, one half to two + thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Karamans.</span>—At the + foot of Mt. Taurus and overlooking the plain that stretches + northward into the heart of Asia Minor is the city of Karaman. + Before its subjection in the XV Century by Bajazet II and the + removal of the capital to Konieh, that lies sixty miles to the + northwest, it was the seat of a Turkish government extending to + the Mediterranean Sea; but to-day the only reminder of its early + importance are several Saracenic mosques covered with rich + arabesques. Of the rugs woven there during the early period + almost nothing is known, but, on account of the former importance + of the city, it is not improbable that they compared favourably + with the rugs of other parts of the Turkish Empire. On the other + hand, some of the modern products are among the poorest rugs of + the East, and contain little artistic merit. A feature peculiar + to many of them is the use of natural wool of reddish brown + colour, obtained from sheep which live on the mountain ranges to + the south of Karaman. The pile is long, the weave is never very + firm, and at each end is a coloured web.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Sivas.</span>—In the city + of Sivas, at the eastern end of Anatolia, and in the villages of + the surrounding plain, girls and women have woven rugs from time + immemorial; but on account of the difficulties of transportation + few of them reach this country. The carefully finished sides and + ends, the formal character of the pattern, and the almost harsh + effect of the strongly contrasting colours of many of them are + unlike what are found in the nomadic rugs made farther to the + east and west. In the weave is a hint of Persian influence; for + not only are both warp and weft of cotton, but the warp is of + small diameter and well spun, and one of the two threads to which + a knot is tied is depressed below the other. The pattern, on the + other hand, is distinctly Turkish. One of the best known types + consists <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id= + "Page_189">189</a></span>of a large hexagon that reaches to the + sides and ends, and contains within it a medallion on which are + designs similar to those seen in Bergamos. On the white field + surrounding the medallion are often small rosettes and floral + figures. The corners of the field may be fringed with running + latch-hooks or a row of formal T’s, and contain a rosette + at their centre. The borders are rarely wide, and often consist + of a single stripe that contains some conventionalised floral + form. Although these rugs are well woven, their crude blending of + floral and geometric figures, as well as their formality of + drawing, which is accentuated by the shortness of the nap, are + most suggestive of Occidental conventions.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p43" id="p43"></a><img src="images/plate43.jpg" + width="550" height="759" alt="Plate 43. Tcherkess Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 43. Tcherkess + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red + and white; also dull blue, green, and light yellow. <i>Knot</i>, + Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally seven to eleven; + perpendicularly, nine to fifteen. A half knot, as it appears at + back, is not as long as wide. The rows of knots are pressed down, + so that the warp does not show at back. <i>Warp</i>, cotton, well + spun and of small diameter. One of the two threads encircled by a + knot is depressed below the other at back and sometimes doubled + under the other. <i>Weft</i>, cotton, of medium diameter. A + thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. + <i>Pile</i>, wool of short to medium length. <i>Border</i>, + narrow, one to three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, an added selvage of + four or five cords attached in places, and with weft encircling + inner cord of selvage. <i>Both ends</i>, narrow web and loose + warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is only + slightly coarse. <i>Usual length</i>, three and one half to six + and one half feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two thirds to four fifths + length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Mudjars.</span>—Near the + river Kizil Irmak in Central Asia Minor is the city of Mudjar, + which produces rugs that occasionally reach this country. They + are often classed as Anatolians, but their colour scheme covers a + wider range, including red, yellow, green, blue, mauve, and pink, + all of which may be seen in the same piece. In fact no other rug + of Asia Minor contains as a rule so many colours, which appear in + the broad borders of old, well-woven pieces with glistening wool + almost like mosaic work. Many of this class are namazliks with + arches very similar to the arches in the rugs of Kir-Shehr, which + is distant only twenty-five miles to the north; and in the panels + above the spandrel are not infrequently designs of vandykes + borrowed from the Ladiks. Some suggestion of the tree of life + often appears in the field, and again rows of flowers + may<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id= + "Page_190">190</a></span> extend into it from the sides. Some of + the best examples are very handsome.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + yellow, blue, green, and ivory, also mauve and pink. <i>Knot</i>, + Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally six to nine; + perpendicularly, seven to twelve. <i>Warp</i>, wool. Each of the + two threads of warp encircled by a knot is frequently equally + prominent at the back, but generally one is depressed below the + other. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of medium to coarse diameter dyed red + or brown. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows + of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool of medium length. <i>Border</i>, + broad, of three to four stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a three-cord + selvage, frequently red. <i>Both ends</i>, coloured webs and + fringe. <i>Texture</i>, loose. <i>Weave</i>, moderately coarse. + <i>Usual length</i>, four to six feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two + thirds to three quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Nigdes.</span>—Near the + base of the Anti-Taurus mountains in the eastern part of the + province of Konieh is the city of Nigde, which is little known in + this country as a rug-producing centre, though its fabrics reach + Europe. Many of them are namazliks, that are distinguished by + their high geometric arches. The borders often show the influence + of the Kurdish tribes, and contain patterns common in the + Mesopotamian valley; but their colour scheme of red, blue, and + yellow more closely resembles the Anatolian. Most of them are of + small size and are poorly woven.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Tuzlas.</span>—Another + class of Asia Minor rugs rarely seen are the Tuzlas. They are + generally regarded as Anatolians, but are made by people who live + about Lake Tuz Gul in the province of Konieh. Some of them are + well woven, and have soft woollen pile and attractive patterns. + The prayer arch of the namazliks bears some resemblance to the + arch of the Kir-Shehrs; the panel is relatively high; and not + infrequently the borders have rosettes similar to those of + Bergamos. The principal colours are red, blue, green, and + ivory.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Kaisariyeh.</span>—One of + the few Asia Minor centres for the manufacture of silk textiles + is the city of Kaisariyeh, the ancient Cæsarea, near the + eastern part of Anatolia. Formerly rugs of excellent quality were + made there; but the modern products are, as a rule, inferior both + in workmanship and material to those of Hereke. Frequently their + dyes are aniline and the colours garish. Many of them are + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id= + "Page_191">191</a></span> prayer rugs with arches resembling the + Ghiordes pattern, but their borders are more conventional. + Woollen rugs which are copies of other well-known Asia Minor + pieces are also woven there.</p> + + <p class="center"><i>COLOUR PLATE VII—LADIK PRAYER + RUG</i></p> + + <p><i>The rug here represented conforms in every particular to + one of the best types of Ladik prayer rugs. It contains the + beautiful border stripe of Rhodian lilies, the pomegranates and + vandykes in the panel below the central field, and the queer + designs of scrolls and serrated leaves so peculiar to these rugs. + It is interesting to see how the pattern of the innermost stripe, + which consists of a row of S-forms at the top and sides, is + changed so as to resemble a ribbon at the bottom, to note the + eight-pointed stars resting on octagons in the lower panel, so + suggestive of nomads, and also the designs which have been placed + near the two corners on the left, between the rosettes and + Rhodian lilies of the main stripe, as if to divert the spell of + the “evil-eye.” Such irregularities, denoting the + idiosyncrasies of the weaver, add to the charm of Oriental + rugs.</i></p> + + <p class="name"><i>Loaned by Mr. Hulett C. Merritt</i></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 556px;"> + <a name="pvii" id="pvii"></a><img src="images/plate_vii.jpg" + width="556" height="819" alt="COLOUR PLATE VII--LADIK PRAYER RUG" title="" /> + </div> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Yuruks.</span>—Suggestive + of gipsies, yet widely unlike them, are the tribes of Turkoman + descent known as Yuruks. This term means “Wanderers;” + and they are well named, since throughout the western part of + Asia Minor they follow their sheep, cattle, and camels from the + rich pastures among the mountain tops of the interior, where they + live in summer, to the fertile, sunny plains bordering the + seashore in winter. Even near Smyrna and the slopes of Mt. + Olympus may be seen their black goat’s-hair tents, where + the unexpected guest is always welcome.</p> + + <p>In their rugs is the reflection of their untrammelled lives, + unaffected by the refinements of cities; and as their lives are + different from those of all other inhabitants of Asia Minor, so + are these rugs entirely distinct, resembling more than anything + else the work of the wild Kazaks of the Caucasus. In them will be + recognised the same long nap, the same massing of colour, the + same profusion of latch-hooks, and other simple designs. The + colours, however, are less brilliant, bright reds and yellows + being more sparingly used; but on the other hand the depth of + floccy nap gives a subdued richness to the dark metallic madder, + blue, green, and brown, such as is rarely seen in any Kazak. The + patterns show the usual diversity of nomadic rugs. The fields may + contain crude, unrelated figures, or diagonal stripes on which + are small geometric designs. Again from the Kurdish tribes to the + east may be adopted the pear designs as well as floral forms, but + the drawing is always far from realistic.</p> + + <p>Most of the modern rugs have fine wool coloured with vegetable + dyes, and stout warp and weft woven to give flexibility; but + their patterns show a want of all artistic feeling. Now and then, + however, comes to light a piece that has stood the wear of more + than a century, showing the touch of a higher craftsmanship, and + with colours softened by each succeeding year.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally + brown, red, and blue, with minor quantities of yellow, green, and + white. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five to + seven; perpendicularly, six to nine. The rows of knots are not + closely pressed down, yet the warp does not show at back. + <i>Warp</i>, wool or goat’s hair; each of the two + threads<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id= + "Page_192">192</a></span> encircled by a half knot is equally + prominent at back. <i>Weft</i>, wool of medium diameter. A thread + of weft crosses two, three, or four times between every two rows + of knots, varying in the same rug. <i>Pile</i>, wool, clipped + long. <i>Border</i>, from four to six stripes, occasionally with + an outer edging. <i>Sides</i>, generally a heavy double + overcasting, but occasionally a double selvage of two or three + cords. <i>Lower end</i>, a coloured web through which generally + runs a parti-coloured cord, and warp loops; or the warp threads + may be knotted and hang loose. <i>Upper end</i>, a coloured web + through which generally runs a parti-coloured cord, a braided + selvage, and a warp fringe; or the warp ends may be braided + together at short intervals. <i>Texture</i>, loose. <i>Weave</i> + at back is of moderately coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, four + to nine feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two fifths to two thirds + length.</p> + + <h4>ASIA MINOR BORDER STRIPES</h4> + + <p>Regarded as a whole, the borders of Asia Minor rugs show but + slight relationship to either the geometric patterns of the + Caucasian, or the floral patterns of the Persian; for as a rule + the geometric features either are subordinate or suggest an + origin by degradation from floral designs, and the floral + features generally are represented by an orderly arrangement of + disjunct forms rather than by continuous vines with pendent + flowers. Yet there is no doubt that some were copied by Caucasian + weavers, and that many were derived from Persian patterns. They + are frequently, however, more artistic than the former, more + interesting than the latter, and rival both in beautiful + colouring and delicate drawing.</p> + + <p><i>Primary Stripes.</i>—Several different stripes + peculiar to Ghiordes prayer rugs are illustrated in Plate + <a href="#pg">G</a>, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 (opp. Page 192). The + first of these is probably the oldest. It is so strikingly + suggestive of the Herati design of rosette and attendant leaves + that there can be little doubt of its Persian origin. The + seed-like processes of the alternate rosettes are noticeable. The + second, which is found in many of the Ghiordes rugs, shows the + same pattern more conventionalised, with the rosette resembling + an open pod and with the leaves almost octagonal-shaped. The + third is a still greater evolution of the same pattern in which + leaves and rosettes of nearly equal shape and size are placed at + three angles of a quadrangular space. The last, which is a very + elaborate pattern somewhat similar to the first, is found in a + few old rugs. Besides these, a number of parallel lines similar + to those of Kulah rugs (Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 12) are + sometimes seen in the Ghiordes.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pg" id="pg"></a><img src="images/plateg.jpg" width="550" height="795" alt="Plate G. Primary Border-Stripes of Asia Minor Rugs" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate G. Primary + Border-Stripes of Asia Minor Rugs</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id= + "Page_193">193</a></span></p> + + <p>One of the best known Ghiordes stripes found in odjaliks and + sedjadehs is shown in Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 6. It is a + broad stripe with wide, vine-like bands covered with rows of + small flecks or flowers. Between each flexure of the band are + designs probably symbolic of early sun worship.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 7, is represented the most + usual and beautiful stripe of the Ladik prayer rugs. The + principal motives are Rhodian lilies, and rosettes identical with + Persian forms, that are probably conventionalised roses. Another + stripe, in which the lily is replaced by a conventionalised vine, + is shown in Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 8. Both these stripes + are found only in Ladik rugs. Other stripes seen now and then in + Ladik and Melez sedjadehs are illustrated in Plate <a href= + "#pg">G</a>, Figs. 9, 10, and 11, each of which shows a + conventionalised leaf.</p> + + <p>One of the most typical Kulah stripes is seen in Plate + <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 12. It might in fact be regarded as a + number of parallel stripes, but as will be evident by observing a + large series of Kulahs it serves the function of a single broad + stripe. Often the separate bands are replaced by a ground of + uniform colour marked by parallel rows of minute flowers of + regularly varying colour. Occasionally this stripe is copied by + Ghiordes weavers.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 13, is a well-known stripe + that appears both in Kulah and Rhodian rugs. As previously + explained, its origin is probably floral, though the drawing is + geometric. A formal stripe found in Bergamos, and consisting + largely of diamonds and eight-pointed stars, is represented in + Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 14.</p> + + <p>Figs. 15 and 16 of Plate <a href="#pg">G</a> illustrate the + border stripes of Melez rugs. Each contains regularly spaced + rosettes, separated by conventionalised leaf forms. A much more + geometric Melez border, in which the rosettes are replaced by + eight-pointed stars and the leaves by discs, is shown in + Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 17.</p> + + <p>A geometric stripe of uncertain origin that is found in some + Koniehs is shown in Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 18.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Figs. 19 and 20, are represented + two stripes characteristic of Kir-Shehrs. The former is a dainty + pattern consisting of a row of bushes separated by the lily + design. It is occasionally found in the Melez also.</p> + + <p>A typical Mudjar stripe in which the geometric patterns are + sub<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id= + "Page_194">194</a></span>divided into small and richly coloured + mosaic work is seen in <a href="#pg">Plate G</a>, Fig. 21.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, Fig. 22, is illustrated a Yuruk + border stripe such as is frequently seen in modern pieces.</p> + + <p><i>Secondary and Tertiary Stripes.</i>—In Plate <a href= + "#ph">H</a>, Figs. 1 and 2 (opp. Page 194), are illustrated two + secondary stripes frequently seen in Ghiordes and Kulah rugs. The + first is most suggestive of a running vine, and the second has + doubtless been derived from it.</p> + + <p>A more ornate pattern, which generally accompanies the broad + band of perpendicular lines peculiar to Ghiordes and Kulah rugs, + is shown in Plate <a href="#ph">H</a>, Fig. 3. The arrangement of + three leaves in angles of quadrangular spaces suggests + relationship to the primary stripe of Plate <a href="#pg">G</a>, + Fig. 3 (opp. Page 192).</p> + + <p>Two other secondary stripes found in Ghiordes rugs are seen in + Plate <a href="#ph">H</a>, Figs. 4 and 5. The former, which is + also found in Kulahs is a vine and flower subject to many + modifications.</p> + + <p>A tertiary stripe containing a ribbon-like vine is very usual + in Ghiordes and Kulah pieces. One of these, which is very + graceful, is shown in Plate <a href="#ph">H</a>, Fig. 6.</p> + + <p>Another angular vine with pendent flower, that appears as a + secondary stripe of a large number of Ladik prayer rugs, is + illustrated in Plate <a href="#ph">H</a>, Fig. 7. This resembles + a few Persian stripes, but the drawing of the pendent leaf is + characteristic of Asia Minor.</p> + + <p>Figs. 8 and 9 of Plate <a href="#ph">H</a> represent two + tertiary stripes often seen in Ladiks and Kulahs. They illustrate + the evolution of patterns; for in the same stripe of a rug will + sometimes be seen the first of these and the simple ribbon + pattern of Plate <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 18 (opp. Page 158), + and also in the same stripe of another rug will sometimes be seen + the second of these and a continuous row of + “<i>ff</i>” designs, as in Plate <a href="#ph">H</a>, + Fig. 2.</p> + + <p>The most typical of all Kulah secondary stripes, though it is + also seen in Rhodian rugs and occasionally in an old Ghiordes, is + illustrated in Plate <a href="#ph">H</a>, Fig. 10. A somewhat + similar stripe is shown in Plate <a href="#ph">H</a>, Fig. 11. + The design looks like a Chinese motive, but that it is evolved + from a vine will be seen by comparing these stripes with those in + Figs. 4 and 12. All of them are Asia Minor border stripes.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="ph" id="ph"></a><img src="images/plateh.jpg" width="550" height="717" alt="Plate H. Secondary and Tertiary Border-Stripes of Asia Minor Rugs" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate H. Secondary and + Tertiary Border-Stripes of Asia Minor Rugs</span></p> + </div> + + <p>In Figs. 13 and 14 of Plate <a href="#ph">H</a> are + illustrated the swastika and <span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span>S stripe, which are seen + now and then in Asia Minor rugs, such as Kulahs, and also in + Caucasian rugs.</p> + + <p>One of the most typical of Melez secondary stripes, + representing processes like cogs projecting in a row from + alternating sides of the stripe, is shown in Plate <a href= + "#ph">H</a>, Fig. 15. The stripes shown in Figs. 16 and 17 of + Plate <a href="#ph">H</a>, representing a row of small rosettes + and a row of octagonal discs, are also occasionally seen in Melez + rugs.</p> + + <p>The very angular vine shown in Plate <a href="#ph">H</a>, Fig. + 18, is sometimes seen in Koniehs.</p> + + <p>A very unusual secondary stripe (Plate <a href="#ph">H</a>, + Fig 19), found in a few Anatolians, represents a fret pattern, + which was probably copied from some monument.</p> + + <p>The chain pattern (Plate <a href="#ph">H</a>, Fig. 20) is + occasionally seen as a tertiary stripe in the Ghiordes. It + appeared in Asia Minor rugs of several centuries ago, and has + been copied by the weavers of Caucasia. Sometimes the lines are + angular, and again the S’s are separated by small round or + square dots.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id= + "Page_196">196</a></span></p> + + <h4>TECHNICALITIES IN THE WEAVE OF ASIA MINOR RUGS</h4> + + <p>Legend:<br /> + <br /> + KNOT—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">H = Horizontally</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">P = Perpendicularly</span><br /> + WARP—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">g = goat’s + hair</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">s = silk</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">e = each equally + prominent</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">d = 1 to the knot + depressed</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">h = 1 to the knot doubled + under</span><br /> + WEFT—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">s = silk</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">j = jute</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">No. = No. times crossing bet. two + round knots</span><br /> + SIDES—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">O = overcasting</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">S = selvage</span><br /> + LOWER END<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">W = web</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">S = Selvage</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">K = Rows knots</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">L = warp loops</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">F = fringe</span><br /> + UPPER END<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">W = web</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">S = selvage</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">K = Rows knots</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">T = turned back and + hemmed</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">F = fringe</span><br /></p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="3">ASIA MINOR</td> + + <td class="center12" colspan="4">KNOT</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="6">WARP</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center12" rowspan="2">G =<br /> + Ghiordes</td> + + <td class="center8" rowspan="2">S =<br /> + Sehna</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="2">Number to<br /> + Inches</td> + + <td class="center8" rowspan="2">w=<br /> + wool</td> + + <td class="center12" rowspan="2">c=<br /> + cotton</td> + + <td class="center6" rowspan="2">s/l</td> + + <td class="center6" colspan="3">At back</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">H</td> + + <td class="center8">P</td> + + <td class="center6">e</td> + + <td class="center6">d</td> + + <td class="center6">h</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Anatolian<br /> + Bergamo<br /> + Ghiordes<br /> + Karaman<br /> + Kir-Shehr<br /> + Konieh<br /> + Kulah<br /> + Ladik<br /> + Meles<br /> + Rhodian<br /> + Sivas<br /> + Youruk</td> + + <td class="center12">G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G</td> + + <td class="center8"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center8">5-9<br /> + 5-9<br /> + 7-12<br /> + 6-9<br /> + 5-9<br /> + 5-8<br /> + 5-10<br /> + 9-12<br /> + 5-8<br /> + 5-8<br /> + 7-11<br /> + 5-7</td> + + <td class="center8">6-12<br /> + 7-10<br /> + 8-16<br /> + 8-13<br /> + 5-10<br /> + 6-10<br /> + 7-12<br /> + 10-13<br /> + 6-11<br /> + 7-9<br /> + 9-15<br /> + 6-9</td> + + <td class="center8">w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + <br /> + w</td> + + <td class="center12"> <br /> + <br /> + c<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + c<br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + [s]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [g]</td> + + <td class="center6">e<br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + <br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + [e]<br /> + [e]<br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + <br /> + e</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + [d]<br /> + d<br /> + [d]<br /> + <br /> + d<br /> + d<br /> + <br /> + [d]<br /> + d<br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [h]<br /> + </td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p> </p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="2">ASIA MINOR</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">WEFT</td> + + <td class="center6" colspan="2">SIDES</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">LOWER END</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">w =<br /> + wool</td> + + <td class="center12">c =<br /> + cotton</td> + + <td class="center8">s/j</td> + + <td class="center8">No.</td> + + <td class="center6">O</td> + + <td class="center6">S</td> + + <td class="center6">W/S</td> + + <td class="center6">K</td> + + <td class="center6">L</td> + + <td class="center6">F</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Anatolian<br /> + Bergamo<br /> + Ghiordes<br /> + Karaman<br /> + Kir-Shehr<br /> + Konieh<br /> + Kulah<br /> + Ladik<br /> + Meles<br /> + Rhodian<br /> + Sivas<br /> + Youruk</td> + + <td class="center8">w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w</td> + + <td class="center12"> <br /> + <br /> + c<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + c<br /> + </td> + + <td class="center8"> <br /> + <br /> + [s]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [j]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center8">2-4<br /> + 2-6<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2-6<br /> + 2<br /> + 2/[1]<br /> + 2<br /> + 4<br /> + 2/[1-4]<br /> + 2<br /> + 2-4</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + O<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + O</td> + + <td class="center6">S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + [S]</td> + + <td class="center8">W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + [W]<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [K]</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + L<br /> + L<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + L</td> + + <td class="center6">F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p> </p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="2">ASIA MINOR</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">UPPER END</td> + + <td class="center18">NAP</td> + + <td class="center18">WEAVE</td> + + <td class="center18">TEXTURE</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">W/S</td> + + <td class="center6">K</td> + + <td class="center6">T</td> + + <td class="center6">F</td> + + <td class="left18">l = long<br /> + m = medium<br /> + s = short</td> + + <td class="left18">f = fine<br /> + m = medium<br /> + c = coarse</td> + + <td class="left18">l = loose<br /> + m = medium<br /> + f = firm</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Anatolian<br /> + Bergamo<br /> + Ghiordes<br /> + Karaman<br /> + Kir-Shehr<br /> + Konieh<br /> + Kulah<br /> + Ladik<br /> + Meles<br /> + Rhodian<br /> + Sivas<br /> + Youruk</td> + + <td class="center8">W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W/[S]<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W/S<br /> + W/S<br /> + W<br /> + W</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + K</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + T<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [T]</td> + + <td class="center6">F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F</td> + + <td class="center18">m<br /> + m/l<br /> + s<br /> + l<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m/s<br /> + m<br /> + m/[s]<br /> + l<br /> + m/s<br /> + l</td> + + <td class="center18">c<br /> + f<br /> + f<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + m/c<br /> + m/c<br /> + m<br /> + m/c<br /> + m/c<br /> + m/c<br /> + c</td> + + <td class="center18">l<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + l<br /> + l<br /> + m/f<br /> + l<br /> + m/f<br /> + l<br /> + m/l<br /> + f<br /> + l</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p>[] indicates the less frequent condition.</p> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id= + "Page_197">197</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER XI</h3> + + <h4>CAUCASIAN RUGS</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/a.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="A" + title="A" /></span>SIDE from the facts that the Caucasus is + rugged, that during the Middle Ages it was ruled by the + illustrious Tamara, and that till recently the physical charms of + its women made them favourites in the slave markets of + Constantinople, the character and history of that country are + to-day almost as unknown to the average reader as they were when + the bards of ancient Greece bound Prometheus to its rocks and + hung the Golden Fleece from its oaken boughs. Yet it is a country + of wonderful interest. Above its gorges, rivalling those of the + Himalayas, rise mountains higher than the Alps. On the + southwestern slope are combined the luxuriant vegetation of + tropical lowlands with virgin forests of fir and pine, and in + meadows and beside shaded brooks grow flowers of strange beauty. + Beneath the ground is undeveloped wealth of ores and mineral oil. + The river Phasis is the natural home of the pheasant; the crags + are the resorts of ibex; and in secluded glens sharing solitude + with bear, wolf, and boar are hidden the wild aurochs.</p> + + <p>Moreover, the philologist, ethnologist, and historian can here + follow his favourite pursuit with as much zest as the Alpine + climber, botanist, mineralogist, and sportsman; for within the + confines of this region are spoken some seventy languages by as + many distinct clans, each of remote origin. Some are the + descendants of the early dwellers; some are the Aryan stock that + found its way to Europe before the beginning of history; still + others are but the offspring of the flotsam and jetsam which + recurring waves of Asiatic conquerors, surging westward in + ancient times, left stranded here. Nevertheless, for so many + generations have the present inhabitants remained among their + mountain strongholds, unabsorbed and unassimilating, that they + have been regarded as a type sufficiently pure and characteristic + to give its name to the great Caucasian race.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id= + "Page_198">198</a></span>Though enjoying greater isolation than + surrounding countries, the Caucasus at different times and in + different ways has felt their influences. During the Augustan age + of Tamara’s rule she attracted by her brilliancy, taste, + and industry foreign courtiers and artisans. Hardly was she dead + before Genghis Khan’s horde of conquering Mongols poured + over the land; and rival suitors, enraptured by her + daughter’s beauty, pressed their claims by invading it with + their Mohammedan armies. For long succeeding years Persia + struggled with Turkey for the mastery of the country, and was + about to take it when Russia grasped the prize, but only after + Shamyl with a few brave thousands had defeated vast armies.</p> + + <p>Each of these foreign guests or foes left some impression on + the native art; so that Caucasian rugs show traces of Turkoman, + Turkish, and Persian influences. It is rarely, excepting in a few + small geometric figures, that there is any evidence of the + Turkoman influence; but it is not unusual to see border stripes + and field designs adopted from the Turkish rugs. Some of these + stripes represent both geometric and floral patterns, either + copied directly or derived with slight modifications from rugs + woven three or four centuries ago in Asia Minor or Armenia. The + Persian influence is apparent only in the floral forms. It + doubtless inspired the stripe of dainty carnations so common in a + large number of Caucasian pieces, the pear design inseparable + from Baku rugs, as well as many other figures that first appeared + in the rugs of Persia.</p> + + <p>Nevertheless, these rugs have their own distinct + characteristics, which have a boldness and virility that are to + be attributed in a measure to grand and rugged scenery as well as + to centuries of struggle for independence, since in art the + influence of environment is most apparent. They lack something of + the sobriety, artistic drawing, and delicate colouring of those + woven in vast deserts, amid the monuments of fallen empires, and + in the gardens of the East; they contain on the other hand, both + in line and colour, the forceful expression of untrammelled + thought. The patterns are largely geometric; the tones of colour, + in which clear red, blue, green, and yellow predominate, are + strong. On the whole, they possess an individuality of character + that is not surpassed by the rugs of any other group.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="m3" id="m3"></a><a href="images/map3z.jpg"> + <img src="images/map3.jpg" width="550" height="353" alt="MAP OF CAUCASIA" + title="" /></a> + + <p class="center">MAP OF CAUCASIA</p> + </div> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Daghestans.</span>—In no + part of Caucasia have better rugs been woven than in Daghestan, + “the mountain country.” Nor is it sur<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span>prising + that this province should produce distinctive types, when it is + considered that it has a length of over two hundred miles; that + its topography is diversified by glaciated mountains, barren + steppes, and fertile valleys; and that it is occupied by numerous + clans, many of whom differ in origin as well as religion. Some of + the rugs come from the city of Derbend on the Caspian Sea; some + come from Kuba in the southeastern corner; others, called + Kabistans, are produced in the country about Kuba; a few are made + by the Lesghians who live among the lofty mountains; and in other + parts of the province are woven pieces which formerly were sent + in large numbers to Europe and America, where they soon became + known as Daghestans.</p> + + <p>Though their resemblance to the Kabistans is so great that it + is often difficult to distinguish between them, the rugs which + acquired the trade name of Daghestans are different from almost + all other Caucasian pieces. This is largely because the province + is bounded on three sides by a sea and a nearly impassable + mountain range, which render communication with surrounding + territory difficult, and create a natural isolation, where in the + course of many generations a distinct type was developed. + Moreover, these same physical conditions have impeded both the + introduction of aniline dyes, so that even among modern pieces + spurious colours are not frequently seen; and also the adoption + of new designs, so that the patterns of two or three centuries + ago are still largely used.</p> + + <p>It is among the oldest rugs of the Daghestan weave that are + found many of the best examples of Caucasian textile art. The + dark, rich reds and blues of the fields, which are brightened by + the ivory, light blue, green, and yellow of the small designs, + resemble the fine colouring of choice Persian carpets. But the + patterns are totally dissimilar; for it is only in a few rare old + pieces, in which are copied some designs such as the lotus, or + the running vine with leaf and bud, that there is any likeness to + the realism of Persian floral ornamentation.</p> + + <p>The drawing, however, is never crude, and on account of the + short nap and strongly contrasting colours always appears with + clear definition. With the exception of conventionalised pears, + the three-leaf sprig, which is commonly seen in the field, and + the narrow border stripes of carnations, almost all of the + figures are geometric; and are so carefully drawn, so closely + clustered, that they represent an appearance frequently compared + to mosaic work.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id= + "Page_200">200</a></span> Even when the patterns represent large + medallions or stars, they contain smaller concentric forms, or + are divided and redivided into smaller stars, diamonds, or + tessellated figures, so that the effect is the same. In some form + or other the latch-hook is seen in almost all these pieces. Of + small designs, the octagonal disc is almost invariably found; and + animals, human beings, and the pear are not infrequently + seen.</p> + + <p>As the population of the province is largely Mohammedan, + namazliks as well as sedjadehs are made; but with the exception + of the unobtrusive arch of the namazlik, which is represented in + Plate C, Fig. 9 (Page 61), there is little difference between + them. There is never any panel as in Asia Minor rugs; nor is + there a noticeable spandrel, since the space above the arch + contains designs similar to those on the rest of the field.</p> + + <p>As a rule, the borders consist of three or four stripes + separated by coloured lines. Only in the secondary stripes are + any floral forms employed; and these, with the exception of the + carnation design, are rare. The reciprocal trefoil is most + characteristic as an outer stripe; the serrated line is also + employed; and it is not unusual to find next to the field a broad + stripe of diagonal barber-pole bars, on which are small dotted + lines.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally blue, + red, and ivory, with minor quantities of green and yellow. + <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally seven to + twelve; perpendicularly, eight to fifteen. A half knot, as it + appears at back, is as long as wide and occasionally longer. The + rows of knots are not firmly pressed down, so that their + alignment is even and the warp shows at back. <i>Warp</i>, wool; + each of the two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent + at the back; occasionally in old pieces one thread is slightly + depressed below the other. <i>Weft</i>, wool of medium diameter. + A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. + <i>Pile</i>, wool, clipped short. <i>Border</i>, three to five + stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a selvage of two, three, or four cords, or + occasionally a weft-overcasting. <i>Both ends</i>, a web, one row + of knots or more, and loose warp fringe. Occasionally there is + also a narrow braided selvage. <i>Texture</i>, moderately firm. + <i>Weave</i> at back is of fine grain. <i>Usual length</i>, five + to ten feet. <i>Usual width</i>, one half to two thirds + length.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p44" id="p44"></a><img src="images/plate44.jpg" + width="550" height="803" alt="Plate 44. Baku Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 44. Baku + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Kabistans.</span>—Within + recent years most of the rugs shipped from the southern part of + Daghestan have become known in Western <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">201</a></span>markets + as Kabistans, though the distinction between them and the type + that takes the name of the province is so slight that it is + determinable only by the strictest analysis. In fact, Kabistans + are merely a variety of Daghestans. Both have short nap and + occasionally adopt the same colour scheme and patterns, so that + many of each class are indistinguishable from one another.</p> + + <p>On the other hand, there are a few interesting points of + difference between the best types, which are largely attributable + to geographic environment. As the only easy access to this + province from the south is by the shore of the Caspian, where the + great mountain wall that forms an almost impassable barrier + between Northern and Southern Caucasia descends to the plain, the + district adjacent to this entrance on the line of travel would + naturally feel and show a foreign influence, while the remote and + more inaccessible parts of the province would be unaffected. + Accordingly, the designs of Kabistans are more varied, and it is + not surprising to find in them evidences of Persian influence not + so apparent in the Daghestans. In some, for instance, are pear + designs, like those occasionally seen in Shiraz pieces; and the + rich tones, that are usually more subdued than those of the + Daghestans, suggest the finest dyes of the Feraghans. There is + also a slight difference in weave. Both display the two threads + of warp encircled by each knot with equal prominence at the back; + but in the Daghestans the alignment of the two halves of the + knot, as they appear at the back, is more regular; while in the + Kabistans one extends beyond the other in the direction of the + length of the rug, as is the case with the Shirvans woven in the + adjoining country to the south. Frequently the weft of Kabistans + is of cotton; and the filling is not as wide as that of + Daghestans, which is of wool. Moreover, the Kabistans may be + either overcast or have a selvage at the sides, but the + Daghestans have almost always a narrow selvage. Among the modern + pieces there is a tendency for both classes to follow the side + finish of the Shirvans.</p> + + <p>A well-known type of old Kabistans, that is also sometimes + repeated in Daghestans, has a dark blue field on which are spaced + in regular order white bracket-like designs, in which the + perpendicular arms are usually connected (Plate <a href= + "#po">O</a>, Figs. 18-a and 18-b, Page 291). Their origin is + unknown; but when their shape and their position in reference to + the rosettes or effulgent stars that are placed near them are + considered, the thought is at once suggested that in them is + reproduced after a long process of slow change a + conven<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id= + "Page_202">202</a></span>tionalised form of the Herati design. + Other small harmonious designs are properly spaced throughout the + fields, and in the main stripe of the border, on a cream-coloured + ground, is frequently seen the beautiful pattern of Cufic origin + represented in Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, Fig. 19 (opp. Page + 228). Old pieces of this pattern, which are now growing rare, + represent in weave, colour, and design the masterpieces of + Caucasian textile art.</p> + + <p>Another pattern consists of diagonal stripes with small + geometric figures, or of small floral forms arranged in rows, so + that those of similar colour fall in diagonal lines. Again, the + entire field may be covered with rectangular pears like those of + Baku rugs. Oblong odjaliks are often seen with fields of dark + colour, at each end of which are large geometric figures + symmetrically balanced with reference to the centre. But they are + so fringed with latch-hooks and so subdivided into smaller + devices, which are accentuated by the shortness of the nap, that + they have the effect of an assemblage of smaller designs.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally blue, + also some red, ivory, green, and brown. Knot, Ghiordes. + <i>Knots</i> to inch horizontally seven to twelve; + perpendicularly, eight to sixteen. A half knot, as it appears at + back, is as long as wide and occasionally longer. The rows of + knots are not firmly pressed down; their alignment is less even + than in Daghestans, yet the warp may be seen at back. + <i>Warp</i>, wool; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is + equally prominent at back. <i>Weft</i>, wool or cotton, of medium + diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows + of knots and occasionally three times. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of + medium length. <i>Border</i>, three to five stripes. + <i>Sides</i>, generally a weft-overcasting, or a two-cord weft + selvage; occasionally a double overcasting or selvage. <i>Lower + end</i>, a narrow web, not infrequently a fine braided selvage + and warp loops. <i>Upper end</i>, a narrow web, occasionally a + fine braided selvage and warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, moderately + firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of medium grain. <i>Usual + length</i>, five to twelve feet. <i>Usual width</i>, one half to + three quarters length.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p45" id="p45"></a><img src="images/plate45.jpg" + width="550" height="793" alt="Plate 45. Shirvan Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 45. Shirvan + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Kubas.</span>—Not far + from the southeast corner of the province of Daghestan, in a + plain watered by streams that debouch from the Caucasus, is the + small town of Kuba. It is on the site of an old Persian fort, + about which in the course of time sprang up a town sufficiently + important to be the residence of a Khan. For a long <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span>period + previous to the treaty of Gulistan, in 1813, the influence of the + Persians had been predominant in this part of the country; and it + is not improbable that some of the oldest Kuba rugs now existing + are the work of their weavers. Many, on the other hand, have few + foreign characteristics either of weave or design, and show a + relationship to the work of the Shemakha tribes, who inhabit an + adjoining district in Shirvan.</p> + + <p>In some of this class the floral form receives more elaborate + treatment than in any other Caucasian rug. One of the patterns of + undoubted Iranian inspiration represents a large oval panel or + medallion, with graceful outlines resting on a field of deep blue + and sable brown, streaked with waving lines of gold. Within the + medallion is a lavish display of large flowers <i>en masse</i>, + and not detached from one another or arranged in set form, as is + the case with most floral patterns. In each corner is a rose with + spreading petals that equals the largest seen in nature, and with + colour that suggests the beauty of a Duchess or Marechal Niel. + Surrounding all is a narrow dainty border of some well-known + Persian vine. The most recent copies of this pattern, that has + been followed for at least a century and a half, are so crude as + to resemble but slightly the oldest, which suggest the work of + some early Kirman weaver and are unsurpassed in beauty and + artistic elegance by any other Caucasian rug.</p> + + <p>Other patterns are more distinctly representative of the + native art. The field of some is occupied by large, irregular, + octagonal-shaped figures defined by serrated edges and subdivided + by mosaic work, at the centre of which is some well-known design. + One of the most pleasing patterns consists of a field on which + with mathematical precision are placed large effulgent stars. At + their centre is often a much smaller star enclosed by a diamond + from which extend broad rays directed towards the eight principal + points of the compass. When softened by time the different + shades, such as light blue, ivory, and deep red of the enveloping + rays, contrasted with other shades at the centre and with a dark + blue of the ground, are exceedingly beautiful.</p> + + <p>The Kubas and Shemakhas have similar tones of colour, + consisting principally of blues, reds, sable brown, and yellow, + to which the soft, velvety character of the wool of the best + examples gives a quality of richness that is distinctive. The + finish of their sides and ends, which is usually similar to that + of the Soumaks, is also identical, so that they are frequently + mistaken for one another, and can<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span> only be distinguished by + a difference of pattern and a slight difference of weave.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally blue, + red, and brown, occasionally some green. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. + Knots to inch horizontally six to nine; perpendicularly, seven to + thirteen. The rows of knots are pressed down, so that the warp is + almost hidden at back. <i>Warp</i>, fine wool; the two threads + encircled by a knot are equally prominent at back. <i>Weft</i>, + wool of fine or medium diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice + between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool of medium + length. <i>Border</i>, one to three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a blue + double selvage of two or three cords. <i>Both ends</i>, a narrow + blue web of “herring-bone” weave, a knotted selvage + or several rows of knots, and short warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, + slightly loose. <i>Weave</i> at back is of moderately fine grain. + <i>Usual length</i>, four to nine feet. <i>Usual width</i>, one + half to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Derbends.</span>—Near the + great walls built by Alexander on the Caspian Sea, where + mountains rise abruptly so as to leave only a narrow pass, is one + of the oldest cities of Caucasia. It was known by the Romans as + Albana, and was renamed by the Persians of the VI Century + “Derbend,” which in their language signifies a + gateway. No other city of Caucasia has been visited by more + foreign foes. Tartar tribes passed that way when entering Europe; + Mongolians captured it as late as the XIII Century; Russians and + Persians in turn held it. Moreover, the sea has offered an easy + approach to the Turkoman tribes dwelling to the east. It is + therefore somewhat surprising that there is so little evidence of + artistic foreign influence in the weavings; but this is due, + perhaps, to the fact that pieces with an authentic age of over + two centuries no longer exist, and such old rugs as remain are + very scarce; whilst the modern pieces are derived largely from + the mountainous districts that find a market in the city.</p> + + <p>Occasionally, however, there comes to light a very old piece + that reaches the standard of the finest Kabistan. The field of + such a one may be filled with elaborately drawn pears like those + seen in many of the Niris rugs. Again, it may be covered with a + checkered or lattice-work pattern that contains within the + diamonds geometric or semi-floral mosaic designs. Surrounding + this field are three or four stripes, of which the outer has a + reciprocal pattern. The nap is of fine wool of moderate length. + At the back of these older rugs <span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span>is sometimes displayed + finely spun reddish dyed threads of woollen weft pressed closely + together between lines of knots carefully tied to brownish + threads of woollen warp; but not infrequently cotton is used for + both warp and weft. Such designs and technique suggest the rugs + woven much farther to the south.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p46" id="p46"></a><img src="images/plate46.jpg" + width="550" height="633" alt="Plate 46. Soumak Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 46. Soumak + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>In contrast with these beautiful but rare pieces, the modern + products are sad commentaries on the retrogression in weaving; + for those that are ordinarily found in the market are like poor + imitations of inferior Daghestans. They are of slightly larger + size, and have longer nap, looser weave, and cruder colours. + Moreover, they show evidences of Turkoman influences; for not + infrequently the warp is of brown goat’s hair, and at each + end is a reddish brown web like what may be seen in the rugs of + Yomud tribes living on the eastern shores of the Caspian. Still + other nomadic characters, resembling the workmanship of Kazak + tribes, appear in the large star-like or diamond-shaped figures + which, fringed with latch-hooks and coloured with bright tones of + red, blue, or green, are often placed in simple array on a field + of strongly contrasting colour. There is nothing, however, + offensive in the colour scheme, excepting when aniline dyes are + used. With wear the nap of many of them acquires the soft and + pleasing effect of Beluchistans. Furthermore, they are both + flexible and durable, though entirely lacking in artistic + qualities.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally blue, + red, and ivory, with minor quantities of green, yellow, and + brown. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five to + nine; perpendicularly, six to twelve. Each half knot is about as + long as wide, and occasionally longer. The rows of knots are + generally pressed down, so that the warp is concealed at back. + <i>Warp</i>, generally wool, occasionally cotton. The separate + threads are not strung closely together. Each of the two threads + encircled by a knot is equally prominent at the back. + <i>Weft</i>, generally wool, but often cotton. In some pieces a + thread of weft of medium diameter crosses twice between every two + rows of knots; not infrequently it crosses both twice and three + times in the same piece; rarely a thread of coarse diameter + crosses only once. <i>Pile</i>, wool of medium length. + <i>Border</i>, three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a double selvage of + two or three cords, or occasionally a double overcasting. <i>Both + ends</i> have a web, frequently a knotted selvage, and a warp + fringe. <i>Texture</i>, moderately loose. <i>Weave</i> at back is + of medium grain. <i>Usual length</i>, five to seven feet. + <i>Usual width</i>, one half to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id= + "Page_206">206</a></span><span class= + "smcap">Lesghians.</span>—On the northern flank of the high + mountain ranges that extend eastward from Kazbek into the + province of Daghestan, live the numerous tribes classed as + Lesghians. Their different dialects and languages would indicate + unrelated origins; but their common religion, mode of life, and + struggle for liberty have established between all of them strong + bonds of sympathy. They are nominally Christians, but essentially + Mohammedans. Most of them live in almost inaccessible spots, + beneath the snow covered, glaciated ridges, and beside fierce + flowing torrents, where on occasions they have converted their + homes into almost impregnable fortresses. These are the people + who united with the Circassians in the long-continued struggle + against the Russian Empire, and followed Shamyl to repeated + victory among the mountain defiles.</p> + + <p>It might naturally be expected that the rugs of such people + would partake of a character totally distinct from those woven in + the sunny atmosphere of Kirman, amid the sacred influences of + Meshed, or among the peaceful hills of Ghiordes. Such, in fact, + is the case, since both patterns and colouring display extreme + simplicity, as well as strength and beauty. Large numbers of + these rugs are of moderate size and slightly oblong; and are + flexible yet stout. Both warp and weft are of fine brown wool; + and as is rarely the case with any other Caucasian rugs excepting + the Shushas, one of the two threads of warp encircled by a knot + is often almost doubled beneath the other. The knotted fringe of + the ends suggests the work of tribes living further westward, but + the selvage of the sides shows relationship to the + Daghestans.</p> + + <p>The patterns of some of these rugs are not unlike those of + rugs woven south of the Caucasus; and not infrequently the fields + contain unrelated designs such as the lozenge fringed with hooks, + the octagonal disc, eight-pointed stars, and S forms. The borders + usually consist of two or three stripes, on which is some + geometric pattern. The colours are few and characteristic. Blue + and yellow are generally present, and frequently red and brown. + On the whole, these pieces have an interesting individuality + unlike that of any other rugs.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, blue, yellow, + red, brown, and ivory. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch + horizontally six to nine; perpendicularly, six to eleven. The + rows of knots are firmly pressed down, so that the warp is almost + hidden at back. <i>Warp</i>, brown wool;<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">207</a></span> one of + the two threads encircled by a knot is depressed below the other + at back, or doubled under the other. <i>Weft</i>, wool of medium + diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows + of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool of medium length. <i>Border</i>, + usually three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, an added selvage, which is + generally wool but occasionally cotton, of two, three, or four + cords. Both ends, a web, two or three rows of knots, and a warp + fringe. In some pieces there is also a braided selvage. + <i>Texture</i>, firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of slightly coarse + grain. <i>Usual length</i>, five to eight feet. <i>Usual + width</i>, one half to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Chichis.</span>—On the + lower slope of the Caucasus, extending down into the valley of + the Terek are the homes of the Tchechens, the weavers of pieces + so often spoken of as Chichis. Beyond them to the north are great + stretches of Russian steppes, and to the south is the land of the + hardy Lesghians. Nevertheless, their rugs show little + relationship to the work of the latter or of any other tribes to + the north of the mountain chain; but resemble more closely the + work of the Shirvans in the valley of the Kur, so that not + infrequently they are mistaken for them. Indeed, their general + character is remote from anything barbaric, and is more in + keeping with the pleasing effect of the Persian sense of harmony. + All floral forms are conventionalised, but the geometric designs + have a delicacy of drawing, a refinement of detail, from which + every jarring note is eliminated.</p> + + <p>Like almost all weavers, the Tchechens adopt different + patterns. On the field of some of the rugs is a plentiful array + of small devices surrounding two or three large geometric + figures; or again the field may be covered with pear designs + arranged in regular order; but most of the rugs now seen follow a + common type. In this the field resembles a floor inlaid with + beautiful mosaic work, formed of carefully cut stones of various + hues, studiously arranged in the form of small diamonds, + eight-pointed stars, or rosettes. Not infrequently the rosettes + are outlined by a fret device surrounding a central star. They + are invariably arranged in lines parallel to the ends of the + rugs, and this horizontal effect is sometimes accentuated by + inserting between each row narrow bands composed of + conventionalised leaves. The colours of these small designs are + generally ivory, light blue, pale yellow, or red; and appear more + pronounced by contrast with the underlying ground of light blue. + Now and then the nomadic instinct of the Tchechen tribes, who + lead their flocks<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id= + "Page_208">208</a></span> regularly from the green pastures of + the ridges to the valley of the Terek, crops out in unrelated + devices such as combs and S forms, which they weave in the field. + But they usually arrange them so as to harmonise with the main + pattern, or else place them near the sides and ends, which are + almost invariably fringed with either a serrated line or a row of + reciprocal trefoils projecting from the border into the field. + This feature of a reciprocal trefoil employed as a fringe to the + edges of a field independently of the lines of a stripe, is seen + in very few other classes.</p> + + <p>Often the borders, which contain a large number of stripes, + are as wide as the central field, with which they harmonise both + in colour and design. There is something chaste in the simplicity + of the geometric figures of the secondary stripes and of the + conventionalised floral drawing of the main stripe. The latter, + as represented in the type generally seen (Plate <a href= + "#pi">I</a>, Fig. 6, opp. Page 226), consists of a row of about + eight rosettes, connected by an angular vine drawn with such + breadth and regularity as to resemble a number of parallel bars + diagonal to the sides. In fact, this pattern would be entirely + geometric were it not for the three-cleft leaves, which spring + from opposite sides of the rosettes. Of the secondary stripes, + the outer almost invariably has the reciprocal trefoil, and one + has frequently a continuous line of eight-pointed stars. The arch + of the prayer rugs is similar to that of Daghestans.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally + ivory, blue, and red, with minor quantities of green and brown. + <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally seven to ten; + perpendicularly, eight to twelve. The rows of knots are not + firmly pressed down, so that the warp may be seen at back. + <i>Warp</i>, wool; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is + equally prominent at back. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of medium diameter. + A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. + <i>Pile</i>, wool, of short or medium length. <i>Border</i>, + three to five stripes. <i>Sides</i>, generally a double + overcasting, but occasionally a double selvage of two or three + cords. <i>Both ends</i>, a web, one row of knots or more, and a + warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, moderately firm. <i>Weave</i> at + back is of medium grain. <i>Usual length</i>, four and one half + to six and one half feet. <i>Usual width</i>, five eighths to + three quarters length.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p47" id="p47"></a><img src="images/plate47.jpg" + width="550" height="724" alt="Plate 47. Kazak Prayer Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 47. Kazak Prayer + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Tcherkess.</span>—The + narrow strip of fertile and beautiful country that reaches from + the Kuban valley southward along the shore of the Black Sea for a + distance of two hundred miles is occupied by a <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">209</a></span>people + known to the western world as Circassians. In their own land they + are called “Tcherkesses,” a Tartar term for + “cutter of roads” or highwaymen; and they have been + in the habit of speaking of themselves as “Adighies” + or Nobles. In fact, there has been no prouder Caucasian race, + even though their homes were often log huts and their daughters + were sold in the markets of Constantinople. These are the people, + who half a century ago finally yielded after a long, fierce + struggle for independence; but a hundred thousand families, + preferring exile to submission to the Czar, migrated to Armenia + and Asia Minor, where they intermarried with other races, and are + rapidly losing their identity.</p> + + <p>Very few of the Circassian or Tcherkess rugs have been woven + by those who left their country. The best were made before the + exodus; and on account of the hardships and poverty of the + people, many that have come to the market within recent years are + greatly inferior to the excellent pieces of former times and are + often mistaken for the work of nomadic tribes. Not only so, but + crude and foreign devices have crept into some of them. It is, + therefore, to the older pieces that we must turn for a better + understanding of this class.</p> + + <p>Something of the ruggedness of lives spent in struggles with + men and nature found expression in the fabrics, which show + firmness of texture, boldness of design, richness of colour. In + fact they resemble the Kazaks so closely in their long nap, and + finish of sides and ends that they are constantly mistaken for + them; yet they may be distinguished from all classes by the large + amount of brownish red or tawny colour of the field and their + stereotyped patterns. These usually consist of diamond-shaped + figures sometimes called “sun-bursts,” that are often + regarded as crude copies of the Russian coat of arms; but there + is little doubt that they have been derived from the medallions + of some old Armenian rugs of the XIV and XV Centuries, in which + also appear the same tri-cleft leaves so common in both this + class and the Soumaks. These patterns are sufficiently large to + occupy the full breadth of the field; and there are seldom less + than two and occasionally as many as four or five extending from + one end to the other. The strong contrast between the blue and + ivory of the figures and the red or tawny colour of the ground is + softened by the depth of pile, which in turn adds warmth and + richness. The borders are always of three stripes. The main one + almost invariably has the tarantula design and is enclosed by + guards with the serrated sawtooth design. Many of these old + pieces are ex<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id= + "Page_210">210</a></span>cellently woven and have a dignity of + pattern and wealth of harmonious colour rarely seen in nomadic + rugs.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red + and tawny yellow, with minor quantities of blue and white. + <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally six to nine; + perpendicularly, seven to ten. A half knot, as it appears at + back, is as long as wide or longer. The rows of knots are firmly + pressed down, so that the warp does not show at back. + <i>Warp</i>, wool; generally each of the two threads encircled by + a knot is equally prominent at back, occasionally one is + depressed below the other. <i>Weft</i>, wool of medium diameter. + A thread of weft usually crosses only twice between every two + rows of knots, but in some pieces as many as four or six times. + <i>Pile</i>, wool of medium length. <i>Border</i>, three stripes. + <i>Sides</i>, a two-cord double selvage. <i>Both ends</i>, as a + rule have a web, a heavy braided selvage, and knotted warp + fringe; occasionally either web or selvage may be omitted. + <i>Texture</i>, very firm. Weave at back of medium grain. + <i>Usual length</i>, five to ten feet. <i>Usual width</i>, one + half to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Bakus.</span>—No other + rugs of Caucasia have greater individuality of colour and design + than the Bakus. This, perhaps, is partly due to the fact that the + district from which they come is dissimilar to any other. It + consists largely of the peninsula of scanty vegetation, where the + great mountain chain extends to the dreary Caspian, leaving at + its base the narrow strip of land now famous for its immense + accumulations of mineral oil. Hither, during the past, the + followers of Zoroaster have come from all directions to worship + in the temple of the Guebres, where day and night the priests + watched the blue flame that rose perpetually from the ground, and + once in long intervals spread over the waters like a sea of fire. + This sacred spot has been owned in turn by Saracens, Persians, + Turks, Russians, and the Princes of Shirvan; so that the + influences of different religions and different races have been + felt here.</p> + + <p>The most noticeable feature of many of these rugs is their + dull colours, that give the impression of being partly bleached + or having faded. There are subdued tones of light blue, tan, pale + ocherous yellow, and black, as well as light, medium, and dark + brown colours of natural wool; but in the rugs woven a century + ago the colours were much richer. None of them are used in large + masses excepting for the underground; nor are there striking + contrasts, so that the effect is somewhat monotonous.</p> + + <h4><i>COLOUR PLATE VIII—SOUMAK RUG</i></h4> + + <p><i>The shape, colouring, and particularly the pattern of this + interesting Soumak, which was probably woven seventy-five or more + years ago, not only are unusual but belong to a higher type than + is often seen. Arranged in diagonal rows on a field of red are + flowering bushes, that for the most part are blue and pink, but + at one end are green, yellow, and brown. The accurate drawing of + these bushes and of the reciprocal trefoils of the guard stripes, + the care with which the stitches have been inserted, and the fine + texture of the wool, as is shown even in the cream-white warp at + the knotted ends, alike proclaim the excellent quality of this + rare piece.</i></p> + + <p class="name"><i>Loaned by Mr. Theodore S. Hawley</i></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="pviii" id="pviii"></a> + <img src="images/plate_viii.jpg" width="500" height="873" alt="COLOUR PLATE VIII--SOUMAK RUG" title="" /> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id= + "Page_211">211</a></span></p> + + <p>An equally important characteristic is the large number of + pear designs, which are unlike those of any other rug. These + designs (Plate <a href="#po">O</a>, Fig. 6b, Page 291) are so + rectangular that they have lost all resemblance to floral + drawing; and to add to their formality, each is placed in the + field with studied regularity and often surrounded by a delicate + hexagonal shaped sub-pattern giving a diaper effect. Sometimes, + also, they appear in the border between an array of other + designs, to which they show no relation; but they never + constitute the sole feature of the rug as they do in + Sarabends.</p> + + <p>At the centre of the field is often a star-shaped design + surrounded by a large diamond or other figure fringed with + radiating lines. These lines suggest the effulgence of light; and + it is not improbable that their origin lay in the mysticism of + fire worship. In sedjadehs the corners are set off by quadrants + of octagons, of which the diagonal sides are serrated and + frequently fringed with radiating lines like the central + medallions. Throughout both corners and fields often appear + eight-pointed and effulgent stars, the three-cleft leaf, S + designs, crude human and animal forms, and other small geometric + devices like those seen in Daghestans and Shirvans. But more + noticeable than any of these are the realistic but mechanically + drawn birds, which are represented in larger numbers and more + frequently than in any other rugs woven within the last + century.</p> + + <p>The borders contain from three to five stripes, of which one + at least is always geometric; and another, as a rule, has some + suggestion of floral form. Often it is only the carnation in + profile; but now and then it is a running vine with leaf or + flower, adopted without modification from Persian rugs. This is + not, however, surprising, when it is remembered that during the + reign of Shah Abbas, Baku belonged to Persia, which for centuries + had been the home of devout Parsees, some of whom undoubtedly + made pilgrimages to the sacred temple.</p> + + <p>These rugs can at once be recognised by their short nap, and + their characteristic colours and designs. They are always + interesting on account of their marked individuality and the + still unsolved symbols of Zoroastrian mysticism they may contain; + but in spite of the careful delineation of the design and the + delicate mosaic effect of the central medallions, very few, + excepting the old pieces, are handsome.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally + brown, tan, blue, yellow, and black. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots + to inch horizontally<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id= + "Page_212">212</a></span> six to nine; perpendicularly, seven to + eleven. The rows of knots are firmly pressed down, so that the + warp does not show at back. <i>Warp</i>, wool; each of the two + threads encircled by a knot is generally equally prominent at + back, occasionally one is depressed slightly below the other. + <i>Weft</i>, usually cotton, sometimes wool, of medium diameter. + A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. + <i>Pile</i>, wool, clipped short. <i>Border</i>, three to five + stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a weft overcasting or a narrow weft + selvage. <i>Both ends</i>, a web, one row of knots or more, and a + warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, moderately firm. <i>Weave</i> at + back is of slightly coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, six to + nine feet. <i>Usual width</i>, one half to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Shirvans.</span>—Between + the rugs of Shirvan and Daghestan is a relationship easily + accounted for by the fact that they are adjoining provinces, and + that almost the only approach to Daghestan for the Asiatic races + among whom the art of weaving reached its highest development was + through Shirvan. Both districts, therefore, received ideas from + the same sources; but since Shirvan has been at times more + completely under the sway of Persia, it has yielded more readily + to the influence of the Persian weavers, as is observable in the + flower and foliate forms which are used more frequently and are + drawn more realistically in its rugs than in those of Daghestan. + On the other hand, the technique of weave as well as finish of + sides and ends in the Shirvans lacks something of the refinement + observable in the Daghestans.</p> + + <p>The oldest existing Shirvans are absorbingly interesting. In + them the foliate forms are more noticeable than in almost any + other Caucasian rugs, though they may in a measure be disguised + by formal treatment. Sometimes they appear as large figures + covering a great part of the field and acting as sub-patterns for + superimposed smaller devices; but they are most frequently found + in the borders. Other old pieces contain lattice-work of + hexagonal-shaped diaper patterns, within which may be designs + abounding in latch-hooks and figures strongly suggestive of + Chinese devices. Such patterns, however, are unusual; as the + fields of most old Shirvans are covered with large medallions, + stars, and diamonds similar to those of Daghestans, although the + drawing inclines to greater simplicity of outline and detail; and + they have greater diversity of colour, as tones of blue, red, + green, and brown in a field of ivory are not unusual.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> + <a name="p48" id="p48"></a><img src="images/plate48.jpg" + width="400" height="827" alt="Plate 48. Kazak Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 48. Kazak + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id= + "Page_213">213</a></span></p> + + <p>The patterns of the more modern rugs have become corrupted + into a mere mechanical copying of conventional forms lacking all + artistic spirit. Some of them resemble those found in both + Daghestans and Kabistans, but generally the designs are drawn + less clearly in Shirvans. This is partly because, as a rule, they + are not so closely woven and the nap is not quite so short. Now + and then the large medallions so common to Soumaks are seen; and + not infrequently the field is covered with diagonal parallel + stripes on which are small geometric devices.</p> + + <p>There is, however, one pattern peculiar to Shirvans that + rarely, if ever, is adopted in any other class. It has somewhat + the appearance of pole medallions and consists of a panel that + occupies nearly the whole field and contains broad incisions at + each side, which nearly divide it into three or four rectangular + sections. Within each of them are octagonal figures, and an + octagonal shape is given to both ends of the panel so as to leave + small corners to the field. Each part often contains small + designs such as latch-hooks, octagonal discs, S forms, + eight-pointed stars, and combs, as well as crudely drawn dogs and + other animal or human forms. With slight modifications this + pattern is sometimes repeated in the prayer rugs (Plate <a href= + "#pc">C</a>, Fig. 11, Page 61), but the section at one end is + more completely an octagon, and the remainder is an oblong + rectangle. A more usual pattern for prayer rugs has the same form + of arch that is common in Daghestans.</p> + + <p>Whatever the fields of these rugs may lack in delicacy of + drawing is amply compensated for by the diversity and beauty of + some of their borders, which have a well balanced harmony of + colours. They have seldom less than three, nor more than five + stripes, of which the secondary are often as interesting as the + primary. The best known is the one with serrated leaf and wine + glass, represented in Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, Fig. 1, opp. + Page 226, which is found in such a large percentage of Shirvans + that it is almost typical of them. If the figures of the field + contain latch-hooks, they are very apt to be expressed in some + form in the primary stripe. Such a one appears in Plate <a href= + "#pi">I</a>, Fig. 2; and the beautiful Georgian pattern (Plate + <a href="#pj">J</a>, Fig. 9, opp. Page 228) is also occasionally + seen. A very much rarer stripe, which is shown in Plate <a href= + "#pj">J</a>, Fig. 8, is only used when the field has a large + central panel with a corresponding pattern. Now and then appears + a stripe with no other ornamentation than a formal row of pear + designs. Of the secondary stripes, the one with the designs of + carna<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id= + "Page_214">214</a></span>tions (Plate <a href="#pk">K</a>, Fig. + 1, opp. Page 230) is very frequently seen, but its beauty depends + largely upon the delicacy of its drawing and colour scheme. On + the whole, the Shirvan dyer displays a wider scope in the + selection of colours than his Daghestan neighbour, but the tones + are not always so rich or harmonious.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally blue, + red, and ivory. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally + seven to twelve; perpendicularly, eight to twelve. The rows of + knots are firmly pressed down, so that the transverse warp does + not show at back. <i>Warp</i>, wool; each of the two threads + encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back. <i>Weft</i>, + generally wool, occasionally cotton, of medium or coarse + diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows + of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of short or medium length. + <i>Border</i>, three to five stripes. <i>Sides</i>, generally a + weft selvage of two or three cords or a double selvage, + occasionally a double overcasting. <i>Both ends</i>, a web, one + row of knots or more, and a warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, slightly + loose. <i>Weave</i> at back is moderately coarse. <i>Usual + length</i>, four to six feet. <i>Usual width</i>, one half to + four fifths length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Soumaks.</span>—Seventy + miles to the northwest of Baku, and about the same distance to + the south of Kuba, where the high ranges of the Caucasus begin to + descend to the sea, is the city of Shemakha. It was almost + destroyed by Nadir Shah, but recovered sufficiently within the + last century to become the capital of Shirvan and a manufacturing + centre of silks. It is the market place for many tribes from the + mountains of Daghestan and the valley of the Kur, who take + thither their rugs, from which its own weavers often borrow + patterns. By a corruption of the name of the city, their fabrics + are called Soumaks, though they are more popularly known as + Kashmirs, because ends of yarn hang loosely at the back, as is + the case with the beautiful shawls of the noted valley of + India.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p49" id="p49"></a><img src="images/plate49.jpg" + width="550" height="731" alt="Plate 49. Karabagh Prayer Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 49. Karabagh Prayer + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>It is, of course, the finish at the back and the absence of + pile that make them so different from all other rugs and place + them in a class by themselves; but even apart from these + characteristics, they are as distinct a type as any in Caucasia. + On the fields of most of them are three or four diamond-shaped + medallions, that occupy nearly the full width of the field and + extend from one end to the other. Almost without exception they + are slightly hexagonal, and are incised on the diagonal sides to + represent crosses. These patterns are doubtless derived from very + old Armenian rugs; and it is possible <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span>that + once the crosses had a religious significance, as it is claimed + that the earlier weavers of this type were a Christian sect; but + the present weavers are mostly Mohammedans. At the centre of the + medallions and in the triangular spaces at the sides are + flattened octagons, which are generally ornamented with some + star-shaped devices. Superimposed on these larger patterns and + surrounding them on the field, are also many small designs, which + as a rule are grouped with a regularity suggestive of the mosaic. + Some are common to other Caucasian pieces; but a few are more + frequently seen in this class than in any other, as for instance, + the knot of destiny (Plate <a href="#po">O</a>, Fig. 17, Page + 291), and the tri-cleft leaf, drawn like a bird’s claw, + which appeared in Armenian rugs at least five centuries ago. + Sometimes the medallions and octagons are replaced by smaller and + more ornate figures, but the geometric character is seldom + entirely lost.</p> + + <p>There are also some old pieces with a totally different + pattern, and with fine colours that are most pleasing in the rich + harmony of tones. They may contain geometric, foliate, or floral + designs. One recently examined had a field of rose red completely + covered with diagonal rows of innumerable dainty figures, which + were evidently the conventionalised forms of small flower bushes. + Not a single other design appeared in the field, yet the richness + of colour and chasteness of pattern made it exceedingly + beautiful.</p> + + <p>The patterns of the border stripes, that number from two to + five, are generally distinctive; though occasionally they follow + well known Caucasian drawing. The outer one has so frequently the + running latch-hook that it is almost typical. As a rule, it has + the simple form shown in Plate <a href="#pk">K</a>, Fig. 20 (opp. + Page 230); but now and then the more elaborate drawing of the + Georgian stripe (Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, Fig. 9, opp. Page + 228) is followed. Sometimes this is replaced by the reciprocal + trefoil, which is used also for the inner stripe; and a running + vine and rosette, such as the one in Plate <a href="#pk">K</a>, + Fig. 4, is not infrequently used for a secondary stripe. The + primary stripes, on the other hand, although most dissimilar to + those of other rugs, differ so widely among themselves, that no + one is typical. Separating these primary and secondary parts of + the border are frequently narrow lines with the barber-pole + device.</p> + + <p>The old pieces are of fine texture and excellent wool, which + even in the warp displays a silky character. The dyes are + faultless, though the colours never acquire a lustre. Red and + blue are largely em<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id= + "Page_216">216</a></span>ployed, but they are partly replaced by + brown in the more modern pieces; and in both old and modern is + usually an orange yellow that rarely appears in other Caucasian + rugs.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + blue, brown, some yellow, and white. <i>Knot</i>, flat stitch. + Knots to inch horizontally eight to fourteen; perpendicularly, + six to sixteen. <i>Warp</i>, wool; each thread is equally + prominent at the back. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of fine or medium + diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows + of knots in old rugs, and between every second and third row in + modern rugs. <i>Border</i>, two to five stripes. <i>Sides</i>, + generally a double selvage of several cords, occasionally an + overcasting. <i>Both ends</i>, narrow web, one or more rows of + knots and fringe; sometimes heavy added selvage. <i>No nap.</i> + <i>Usual length</i>, five and one half to twelve feet. <i>Usual + width</i>, one half to three quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Shemakhas.</span>—Flatly + woven Soumaks are not the only rugs of the Shemakha tribes. Some + of the same people, who dwell among the ranges of the Caucasus a + short distance to the north, make rugs of pile that occasionally + surpass in quality of material and beauty of colour scheme the + best of Daghestans, and are sometimes spoken of by dealers as + “Royal Daghestans;” yet they are seldom seen and + little known. In fact, they are frequently mistaken for Persian + fabrics on account of the subdued richness of their deep reds, + blues, greens, yellows, and browns, and the patterns which are + largely floral.</p> + + <p>Very often the principal border stripe is the well-known + Georgian pattern, that occurs in so many Soumaks, even though the + secondary stripe be some Persian pattern. These rugs also + resemble the Soumaks in the coloured woollen selvage of the + sides, and in the narrow coloured web of + “herring-bone” weave and knotted fringe of the ends. + In some, the field is divided by diagonal bars into large + diamond-shaped figures containing conventionalised flowers; in + others, it is merely a background over which are strewn more + realistically drawn floral forms; and in all is expressed an + artistic perception of design and colour not frequently found in + Caucasian pieces.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally blue, + red, and brown. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally + seven to eleven; perpendicularly, seven to thirteen. The rows of + knots are pressed down, so that the warp is almost hidden. + <i>Warp</i>, wool; one of the two threads encircled by a knot is + depressed below the other at back.<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_217" id="Page_217">217</a></span> <i>Weft</i>, wool, of + fine or medium diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between + every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium length. + <i>Border</i>, two to three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a blue selvage + of two or three cords. <i>Both ends</i>, a narrow blue web of + “herring-bone” weave, a knotted selvage or several + rows of knots, and short warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, slightly + firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of moderately fine grain. <i>Usual + length</i>, four to eight feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two fifths to + two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Tiflis.</span>—When it is + considered that for centuries Tiflis has been the Georgian + capital, where culture and art received more encouragement than + in the provinces; that it was in constant communication with the + rug-producing countries on all sides; and was on one of the great + highways between Persia and Europe, it is surprising that what + has been written hitherto about Caucasian rugs has contained + almost no reference to a type peculiar to this city and district. + This is undoubtedly due to the fact that within recent years + hardly any rugs have been produced there, and that the old pieces + are few and but little known.</p> + + <p>Nevertheless, now and then come to light beautiful old rugs + which are dissimilar to those of all other classes. The wool of + their moderately long nap has a silkiness that suggests a Shiraz + or a Meshed; the colour scheme includes a very wide range of + bright and positive tones, such as blue, green, rose, and ivory; + the weave of delicate and fine threads is as close as that of old + Bergamos. A glance at the ends and back helps to determine the + type; for the warp is occasionally of cotton, which is a + peculiarity not seen in many other Caucasian classes; the weft + which crosses from three to five times is of very finely spun + wool mostly dyed a brown or dull red, and strung with great + exactness; and the knots are tied with care. There is also + something distinctive in many of the patterns; for however + interesting they may be, precision of drawing is often combined + with discordance of detail. One part of the field, for instance, + may consist of a well executed diaper pattern; another part may + represent a number of stiff, perpendicular, parallel bars, + occupying the full width of the field; and still another part may + be entirely occupied by hexagonal-shaped pear designs. Adjoining + these may be other pear designs of totally dissimilar shape as + well as mystic symbols and other strange devices. Likewise, many + different colours may be placed in close relation, yet the wool + is so soft and the tones so delicate that the effect is not + harsh. Some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id= + "Page_218">218</a></span> sort of tree-form is not unusual; but + on the whole, the designs of both field and border are + geometric.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally blue + and red, with minor quantities of yellow, green, and brown. + <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally six to ten; + perpendicularly, six to ten. A half knot, as it appears at back, + is as long as wide or longer. The rows of knots are firmly + pressed down, so that the warp does not show at back. + <i>Warp</i>, generally wool, occasionally cotton; each of the two + threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back. + <i>Weft</i>, wool, of fine diameter, usually dyed red or brown. A + thread of weft crosses from three to five times between every two + rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, soft wool of medium length. + <i>Border</i>, three to five stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a double + overcasting or narrow selvage. <i>Both ends</i>, a web and warp + fringe. <i>Texture</i>, firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of + moderately fine grain. <i>Usual length</i>, six to eleven feet. + <i>Usual width</i>, three eighths to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Kutais.</span>—Among a + large assortment of Caucasian rugs are occasionally seen a few + pieces from Kutais, once famed as the home of Media, and now the + capital of Imeritia. The gardens surrounding its homes, that line + both banks of the river Rion, are fragrant with lilacs and roses; + in the valley beyond the city, pink rhododendrons and yellow + azaleas blossom beneath the oaks. Here is woodland scenery not + found in other parts of Caucasia, and it might be expected that + the weavings of the people would have a striking individuality of + their own; but they are little known as a distinct class. In + fact, they bear such a resemblance to the Kazaks that they are + constantly mistaken for them; though as a rule they have a more + oblong shape and somewhat shorter nap; they are less stoutly + woven, less barbaric, and contain fewer crude, nomadic devices. + Moreover, as this district was producing rugs before the Cossacks + had settled permanently in Southern Caucasia, it is not + improbable that some of its patterns were copied by them.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p50" id="p50"></a><img src="images/plate50.jpg" + width="500" height="846" alt="Plate 50. Gengha Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 50. Gengha + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>A peculiarity of this class is the drawing of the pear + designs, which are found in a very large number of the rugs. The + extension of the narrower end, instead of being a short, curved + hook, is generally more developed, so that it may be as long as + the major axis of the pear and frequently stands almost at right + angles to it. Also attached to the sides of the pear are + rectangular bead-like processes (Plate <a href="#po">O</a>, Fig. + 6c, Page 291). In many of these rugs, the field is di<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">219</a></span>vided + into a number of bands parallel with the sides; and through them + run vines, from which the pears are suspended. Or the pears may + be arranged in regular order on the field without the bands and + vines. Sometimes the field is reduced to a very small space by a + broad border consisting of a number of stripes, some of which are + often of striking patterns. One of them is represented in Plate + <a href="#pi">I</a>, Fig. 15 (opp. Page 226), which suggests the + grape vine common to the gardens of Kutais. Some form of the tree + of life and floral forms are also seen in old pieces.</p> + + <p>A resemblance exists between the weave of Kutais and Tiflis + rugs, as in each the weft usually crosses several times; it is + generally coloured blue or red, and is formed of fine threads of + yarn. The wool of the nap is of the same fine quality; but the + warp of the Kutais rugs, which is almost invariably of wool, + frequently consists of a brown and white thread twisted together; + and the knots are tied less evenly, so that the alignment at the + back is a little more irregular, yet less so than in Kazaks.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + blue, and white, with minor quantities of yellow, brown, and + black. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five to + nine; perpendicularly, six to eleven. A half knot, as it appears + at back, is as long as wide or longer. The rows of knots are + slightly pressed down. The alignment is more even than in Kazaks. + <i>Warp</i>, generally wool, occasionally cotton; each of the two + threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at the back. + <i>Weft</i>, wool, of fine or medium diameter. A thread of weft + usually crosses three times, occasionally only once, and again + four or five times. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium length or long. + <i>Border</i>, three to five stripes. <i>Sides</i>, either a + double overcasting, or a double selvage of two or three cords. + <i>Both ends</i>, a web and warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, + moderately firm. <i>Weave</i> at back, generally of medium fine + grain but occasionally coarse. <i>Usual length</i>, six to twelve + feet. <i>Usual width</i>, one third to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Kazaks.</span>—Of the + warlike Cossack tribes, which were once stationed along the + southeastern border of Russia to protect it from the depradations + of Caucasians, a number settled permanently in Circassia, and a + few crossed the mountains to the high plateau lying between Lake + Gotcha and Mt. Ararat. Here they adopted more sedentary lives; + but there still lingers the inherited spirit that generations ago + won for them the name Kazaks, which denotes<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">220</a></span> to the + Tartars, from whom many have doubtless sprung, a Marauder. All of + these tribes weave; but the rugs seen in this country come + principally from the southern district, where may also be found + the fabrics of other races such as Armenians, Tartars, and the + native people. Nevertheless, the Kazak weavings are of a most + distinct type, to which even the smaller Kazakjes conform. They + have bright, rich colours, of which a liberal amount of green is + almost invariably present, though sparingly used in other + Caucasian rugs. Only the Tcherkess vie with them in the length of + the nap; and no other class has such noticeable patterns of + incongruous sizes and shapes. They have, in fact, the most + nomadic, unconventional patterns of all this northern group; and + in their barbaric characteristics, they bear much the same + relation to other Caucasian rugs as those of Western Kurdish and + Yuruk tribes bear to Persian and Asia Minor pieces.</p> + + <p>In marked contrast to the almost mosaic drawing of Chichis and + many Daghestans, the Kazaks show a tribal fondness for large + patterns. Sometimes the field is divided into three horizontal + panels, which may be entirely plain except for a simple design + fringing the edges; or as is more frequently the case, it may be + occupied by large, slightly elongated octagons, within which are + represented smaller figures. Occupying almost the entire field of + other pieces are large patterns like medallions, perfectly + balanced with reference to the centre and subdivided into small + sections, each of which contains individual motives. A few of + this class, also, have the “sunburst” pattern, so + characteristic of the Tcherkess.</p> + + <p>At least half the pieces now seen are without any formal + pattern, but contain a heterogeneous lot of geometric designs + characteristic of nomadic weavings; but even these are generally + arranged with the idea of symmetrical balance. For instance, at + the centre may be a large geometric figure surrounded at equal + distances by pairs of smaller and similar figures. Not + infrequently the drawing of the upper and lower half, or of the + right and left side, shows an almost perfect correspondence, + notwithstanding the many separate designs. The most common of + these are eight-pointed stars, lozenges fringed with latch-hooks, + and what are known as the “tarantula” device. Of the + innumerable small figures, the octagonal discs and S forms are + the most common; crude animal and human figures are also + seen.</p> + + <p>Excepting the addition of the arch, there is little + distinction<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id= + "Page_221">221</a></span> between namazliks and sedjadehs. It is + small and less graceful than that of Asia Minor pieces, and + follows stiff lines in harmony with the general pattern. It is, + however, drawn in two different ways. Generally it has the shape + of half an octagon, or of a wall-tent with apex flattened; but + not infrequently it is square or slightly oblong. The narrow + bands that form the arch are extended transversely from each side + of the base to the borders; and occasionally they are continued + down the sides of the field to form at the bottom a figure + similar to the square-shaped arch. Now and then a comb, or small + figure of diamond shape, on which to place the bit of sacred + earth from Mecca, is outlined within the mihrab; and now and then + crude palm-like figures, indicating where the hands are to be + rested in the act of devotion, are represented at the sides.</p> + + <p>However many stripes the border may contain, rarely are there + more than one of any consequence; since the guard stripes have + generally only the reciprocal sawtooth or trefoil patterns, the + barber-pole or dotted lines. The absence of important secondary + stripes, however, brings out more prominently the drawing and + colouring of the main one. The most common pattern is what is + known as the “tarantula” represented in Plate + <a href="#pi">I</a>, Fig. 8 (opp. Page 226). Very similar is the + crab pattern (Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, Fig. 7), which was + undoubtedly derived from the double vine of some Persian rug, as + the crab-like figure may be resolved into a rosette to which are + attached four conventionalised leaves. Another pattern, which is + also seen in Kutais rugs, is the crude but striking vine shown in + Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, Fig. 15, which, when represented in + bold, rich colours on an ivory field, makes a most effective and + beautiful border stripe. Other border stripes frequently employed + in these rugs appear in Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>.</p> + + <p>Unfortunately, during recent years, many inferior rugs of + other tribes have been sold as Kazaks, which in a measure they + often resemble though they lack their spirit and character. The + very modern Kazaks, also, are often of poor quality, but those + made two generations or more ago were carefully and stoutly + woven, with silky wool dyed with the best of vegetable colours. + There is always something interestingly barbaric in their long, + almost shaggy nap, their masses of rich red and green, their bold + designs surrounded by smaller nomadic figures, all of which + collectively find no counterpart in any other Caucasian rugs.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + green, and yellow, also some blue, white, and brown. <i>Knot</i>, + Ghiordes. Knots to inch<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" + id="Page_222">222</a></span> horizontally six to nine; + perpendicularly, seven to ten. The rows of knots are pressed + down, so that the warp is hidden at back. <i>Warp</i>, wool; each + of the two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at + back. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of coarse diameter, usually dyed red or + brown. A thread of weft generally crosses only twice between + every two rows of knots, but occasionally three or four times. + <i>Pile</i>, wool, clipped long. <i>Border</i>, three to five + stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a double overcasting attached in + figure-eight fashion to the sides, or a double selvage having + from three to five cords. <i>Lower end</i>, a red or brown web + and warp loops, or a braided selvage and fringe. <i>Upper + end</i>, a red or brown web, occasionally a braided selvage or + several rows of knots, and a warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, stout. + <i>Weave</i> at back is of very coarse grain. <i>Usual + length</i>, five to twelve feet. <i>Usual width</i>, one third to + three quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Karabaghs.</span>—To the + southeast of Lake Gotcha and north of the river Aras, that + divides Caucasia from Persia, is the district of Karabagh, a name + signifying “Black Vineyard.” On account of its + geographic position, it has been subject to the Shahs for long + periods, during the many struggles between the two countries. It + is, moreover, separated from the rug-producing district of + Karadagh by the river only; and its southern border is less than + eighty miles distant from the city of Tabriz, to which many of + its rugs are taken. For these reasons it would be only natural to + expect that the weavings of Karabagh would show more of the + Persian influence than those of any other part of Caucasia. Such, + indeed, is true, when applied to the oldest pieces; but it is not + at all true in the case of a large percentage of the modern + products.</p> + + <p>Within recent years large numbers of these coarsely made and + wretchedly dyed rugs have reached the Western markets. Some of + them resemble Kazaks in their geometric figures; but differ from + them in their workmanship, since one of the two threads encircled + by a knot is depressed; they are much more loosely woven; they + are not so large; nor for the most part are they so heavy. Other + pieces often lack the symbolic and other small designs that + render nomadic rugs so interesting. Occasionally the central + field is almost figureless, or there may be large expanses of + white or some raw colour such as startling red, yellow, or blue, + on which appear stiffly and crudely drawn nondescript + devices.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p51" id="p51"></a><img src="images/plate51.jpg" + width="550" height="738" alt="Plate 51. Royal Bokhara Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 51. Royal Bokhara + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>It is a relief to turn from these poor pieces to those woven + half <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id= + "Page_223">223</a></span>a century ago, with less obtrusive + colouring and more chaste patterns. Many of the old pieces are + oblong sedjadehs, which have often a length almost twice the + breadth; though the more modern pieces incline to smaller and + nearly square sizes. There are also namazliks that do not always + religiously follow the usual pattern; for now and then one is + seen with an arch of several steps, rising from near the middle + of the sides, and with a diamond for the sacred earth or pebble + from Mecca, as is shown in Plate <a href="#pc">C</a>, Fig. 12 + (Page 61). The particular piece from which this was drawn was + over fifty years old and was three fourths as wide as long. + Scattered over the main field, which was yellowish brown, and the + spandrels, which were white, were geometrically shaped flowers + with long angular stems tinted with blue, green, and pinkish + red.</p> + + <p>The borders show as great diversity as the fields, but one + stripe usually contains a concession to the Persian and another + to the Caucasian tradition. For instance, the primary stripe may + be of Iranian character flanked by the running latch-hook; or it + may be the well-known crab pattern, while the adjacent stripe may + be a running vine of simple form.</p> + + <p>Many of these old pieces are very handsome and equal in + artistic finish the best of Caucasian rugs; the drawing is + carefully executed; the colours are rich; the weave is fair; but + like the rare old rugs of Daghestan and Tiflis, are now seldom + seen.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + blue, yellow, and white. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch + horizontally six to ten; perpendicularly, seven to ten. The rows + of knots are only slightly pressed down, yet the warp is + generally concealed at back. <i>Warp</i>, wool; one of the two + threads encircled by a half knot is depressed below the other at + back. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of medium or coarse diameter, sometimes + dyed red. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows + of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of short or medium length. + <i>Border</i>, three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, generally a double + selvage of two or three cords, in lengths of different colours; + occasionally a double overcasting attached figure-eight fashion. + <i>Lower end</i>, a web and warp loops, or a braided selvage, one + row of knots or more, and a warp fringe. <i>Upper end</i>, a web, + a web turned back and hemmed, or a braided selvage, one row of + knots or more, and a warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, loose. + <i>Weave</i> at back is of coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, + four to nine feet. <i>Usual width</i>, one half to three quarters + length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id= + "Page_224">224</a></span><span class= + "smcap">Shushas.</span>—About seventy miles to the + southeast of Lake Gotcha is Shusha, capital of Karabagh. Nearly + two centuries ago, it was built by Nadir Shah on an almost + inaccessible mountain side to guard the northern boundary of + Persia, which had been extended to the Caucasus. It has now about + twelve thousand inhabitants, and is the market place for numerous + tribes that are scattered over the dry plains as far as the Aras + river. In this city and in the suburbs are woven rugs that are + frequently imported to this country and sold under several names, + yet are of a distinct type. They resemble the Karabaghs of the + surrounding country but differ from them in their richer and more + subdued colours as well as in the stoutness of weave. One thread + of warp to each knot is doubled beneath the other, whereas in the + rugs of the desert tribes it is only depressed.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dark + blue, red, and brown, with minor quantities of green and yellow. + <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally seven to + twelve; perpendicularly, six to eleven. The rows of knots are + only slightly pressed down, so that the warp shows at back. + <i>Warp</i>, wool; one of the two threads encircled by a knot is + much depressed below the other at back, and frequently doubled + under the other. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of medium diameter, generally + dyed red. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows + of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool of medium length. <i>Border</i>, + three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a double selvage of two or three + cords, often attached to the sides in figure-eight fashion. + <i>Lower end</i>, a narrow web and warp loops. <i>Upper end</i>, + a web that is sometimes turned back and hemmed, and a warp + fringe. <i>Texture</i>, moderately firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is + of slightly coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, four to nine feet. + <i>Usual width</i>, one half to three quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Genghas.</span>—Over the + land lying between lakes Gotcha, Van, and Urumiah, in Caucasia, + Armenia, and Persia, tribes of mixed origin wander back and + forth, but frequently gather at the yearly fair of Elizabethpol. + During the period when the Persian rule extended over the + country, it was the residence of a Khan and an important centre + of trade. As it was then known as Ganja or Gengha, the weavings + of these nomads, which were marketed there, acquired that + name.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p52" id="p52"></a><img src="images/plate52.jpg" + width="500" height="680" alt="Plate 52. Princess Bokhara Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 52. Princess + Bokhara Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>Naturally they are a heterogeneous lot containing ideas + incorporated from many sources; but they resemble the Kazaks more + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id= + "Page_225">225</a></span>than anything else, and are frequently + mistaken for them. Yet some of the distinctions are very marked: + they have a more oblong shape; the nap is shorter; and they are + less stoutly woven. In the Kazaks a thread of weft, as a rule, + crosses only twice between two rows of knots, which are firmly + pressed down; but in these rugs a thread of weft crosses from + four to eight times between two rows of knots, which are not + firmly pressed down, so that the narrow filling of weft is + sometimes even four times as wide as a row of knots and presents + a bead-like appearance. In the colour scheme of numerous pieces, + which in many respects resembles that of Karabaghs, is often a + preponderance of ivory white. There is no characteristic pattern. + The field may be covered with diagonal stripes as in some + Shirvans; it may consist largely of lozenges fringed with + latch-hooks and tarantula devices; again, it may have some large + central figure surrounded by a motley lot of emblematic as well + as apparently meaningless devices, or crudely drawn human, + animal, or floral forms. The borders, likewise, include a wide + scope of patterns. It is, therefore, largely by the character of + the weave, quality of material, and finish of sides and ends, + that these pieces can be distinguished from other nomadic + products.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally blue, + red, and white, with minor quantities of green, yellow, and + brown. <i>Knot</i>, Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally six to + eight; perpendicularly, six to nine. A half knot, as it appears + at back, is longer than wide. The rows of knots are not firmly + pressed down, so that the warp shows at the back. <i>Warp</i>, + generally wool, occasionally goat’s hair; each of the two + threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at the back. + <i>Weft</i>, wool, of medium diameter and usually dyed red. A + thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots, but + generally three and frequently as many as six or eight times. + <i>Pile</i>, wool of medium length. <i>Border</i>, three or four + stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a double selvage of two, three, or four + cords. <i>Lower end</i>, a web, usually coloured red, and warp + loops. <i>Upper end</i>, a web to which a braided selvage is + often added, and a warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, very loose. + <i>Weave</i> at back is of coarse grain. <i>Usual length</i>, + five to nine feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two fifths to two thirds + length.</p> + + <h4>BORDER STRIPES</h4> + + <p>Disregarding a very few floral secondary stripes that have + been derived from Persian rugs, the Caucasian borders are + characterised<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id= + "Page_226">226</a></span> by geometric patterns, which + distinguish them from other groups. But were it possible to trace + them to their origin, it would doubtless be found that a very + large number that are now strictly geometric have degenerated + from leaf and flower patterns. Of the remainder, some are + symbolic and others are crude copies of familiar objects. The + more artistic and realistically drawn floral patterns appear in + the less conspicuous secondary stripes; but on the other hand the + primary stripes contain a number of unusually interesting + patterns, which have been copied for centuries.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Primary + Stripes.</span>—The cup and serrated leaf pattern (Plate + <a href="#pi">I</a>, Fig. 1, opp. Page 226) appears so frequently + in Shirvans as to be almost typical. It is also occasionally seen + in Daghestans and Kabistans; but probably originated in Southern + Caucasia or Armenia, since it is found similarly drawn in rugs + woven in that district about 1500 <span class="smcap">a. + d.</span> It is a pattern that scarcely varies with time or + locality except in the number of serrations to the leaf and in + the shape of the cup.</p> + + <p>Serrated leaf patterns, represented in Figs. 2 and 3, Plate + <a href="#pi">I</a>, are sometimes seen in Kazak and other + nomadic rugs. It is not improbable that they have a common origin + with the Shirvan cup and leaf pattern.</p> + + <p>In the stripe represented in Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, Fig. + 4, is a series of wine cup rosettes that are occasionally seen in + the old rugs from the Shirvan district. In fact, the wine cup + design is a favourite there.</p> + + <p>Another stripe, in which a somewhat similar cup appears, is + shown in Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, Fig. 5. This is an old + nomadic pattern not frequently seen.</p> + + <p>Fig. 6 of Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, represents the well-known + Chichi border stripe, composed of rosettes separated by + diagonally drawn ribbon-like bars. To the rosettes are attached + tri-cleft leaves. This stripe suggests at once some Persian vine + and flower.</p> + + <p>What is known as the crab pattern (Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, + Fig. 7), is seen in Kazaks and other Caucasian nomadic rugs, as + well as in a few very modern Asia Minor pieces. Though its + resemblance to a crab is noticeable, it is really a rosette to + which are attached four crudely drawn leaves, that frequently + contain smaller designs at their centres.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pi" id="pi"></a><img src="images/platei.jpg" width="550" height="793" alt= + "Plate I. Primary Border-Stripes of Caucasian Rugs" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate I. Primary + Border-Stripes of Caucasian Rugs</span></p> + </div> + + <p>Slightly resembling the last is the so-called tarantula + pattern (Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, Fig. 8), that was possibly + derived from the stripe with an eight-pointed star (Plate + <a href="#pk">K</a>, Fig. 12, opp. Page 230); but it seems more + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id= + "Page_227">227</a></span>probable that the inspiration is Iranian + and that it is intended for rosette and double vine. This stripe + is found in Kazaks, Genghas, Tcherkess, and other nomadic + rugs.</p> + + <p>Somewhat like the last is the stripe of Plate <a href= + "#pi">I</a>, Fig. 9, that is now and then seen in old Tiflis and + other rugs of Southern Caucasia. It suggests a geometric rosette + and double vine.</p> + + <p>Occasionally the dainty clover-leaf design, represented in + Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, Fig. 10, is used by the nomadic + weavers. It is almost the only reciprocal pattern found in a + Caucasian primary stripe.</p> + + <p>The repetitive urn-shaped pattern of Plate <a href= + "#pi">I</a>, Fig. 11 is once in a while seen in old rugs of the + Daghestan country.</p> + + <p>On account of the resemblance between the stripes shown in + Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, Figs. 12 and 13, they have probably a + common origin. Both are found in rugs of the Daghestan and + Shirvan districts, and the former is occasionally seen in rugs of + Asia Minor. Sometimes smaller adventitious devices are placed at + the sides of the stripes between the rosettes.</p> + + <p>Resembling the last is the pattern shown in Plate <a href= + "#pi">I</a>, Fig. 14, which is commonly seen in Shirvan rugs and + kilims. It is purely geometric and resembles one used in Western + Asia Minor rugs of the XV Century, from which it may have been + derived.</p> + + <p>Though greatly conventionalised, the pattern represented in + Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, Fig. 15 is a vine and leaf derived + from much more ornate forms, which may be seen in a XVI Century + Asia Minor piece that is in the British Museum. It is now seldom + copied, but was once a popular pattern for the Kazak and Kutais + weavers.</p> + + <p>Some form of the latch-hook appears in a large number of + Caucasian stripes, but mostly in nomadic pieces. Figs. 16, 17, + 18, 19, and 20 of Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, represent patterns + found mostly in old Kazaks and kindred rugs. The last one is also + occasionally used as a secondary stripe. The patterns shown in + Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, Figs. 21 and 22 are from stripes + sometimes seen in the Daghestan and Shirvan districts.</p> + + <p>A much more interesting stripe because of its well + authenticated antiquity, is the one shown in Plate <a href= + "#pj">J</a>, Fig. 1 (opp. Page 228). It is found in rugs made in + Southern Caucasia two centuries ago, and according to Dr. Martin + has been used since the XII Century. Probably as the result of + copying, the design appears reversed in many old rugs.<a name= + "FNanchor_30" id="FNanchor_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30" class= + "fnanchor">30</a> These stripes are seen in comparatively recent + pieces, but principally</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id= + "Page_228">228</a></span></p> + + <p>in those of the Daghestan and Shirvan districts. Though the + latch-hook is suggested by the small triangular parts, it is more + probable that originally they were intended for leaves. In a few + stripes the design is elongated, and in place of a single + crossbar there are several, forming a figure that slightly + resembles a poinsetta, which is the term occasionally applied to + it by weavers.</p> + + <p>The stripe shown in Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, Fig. 2, which + is found in Kazak and other nomadic rugs, is interesting as + representing a vine of which the pendant flower is replaced by a + T formed by latch-hooks.</p> + + <p>In Figs. 3 and 4 of Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, are patterns of + stripes found in rugs of the Shirvan and Daghestan districts. As + they are several centuries old, they may be derived from Armenian + patterns, to which they show kinship. Both patterns are at times + reversed as the result of copying.<a name="FNanchor_31" id= + "FNanchor_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">31</a> + A stripe also used in the same districts and probably of similar + origin is seen in Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, Fig. 5.</p> + + <p>Differing from any of these because of their utilitarian + origin, are the separate designs, which arranged in perpendicular + rows, form the “churn” stripe of Plate <a href= + "#pj">J</a>, Fig. 6. Each of them represents crude machines for + churning milk, which were formerly used by the nomadic tribes of + Southern Caucasia and Armenia, who constructed them out of logs + with a length of about five feet, and placed the sharpened base + in the ground. Then hanging a goat’s skin filled with milk + over each of the sides, and seating themselves in the middle, + they turned first one then the other. As might be expected, these + stripes belong entirely to nomadic rugs.</p> + + <p>Figs. 7 and 8 of Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, represent stripes + sometimes seen in Shirvans. The latter is undoubtedly derived + from the prayer patterns that are often used in these rugs.</p> + + <p>What is known as the Georgian stripe is shown in Plate + <a href="#pj">J</a>, Fig. 9. It is found in Daghestans, + Kabistans, Shirvans, Soumaks, Shemakhas, and Kubas. Though a + primary stripe, it is rarely placed at the centre of the border, + but at the outer or the inner side, or at both sides with a less + ornate stripe between. As a rule it accompanies only the more + artistic rugs.</p> + + <p>Generally the primary stripes of Soumaks are different from + those of other rugs. A few appear in Figs. 10, 11 and 12 of Plate + <a href="#pj">J</a>. The last is interesting on account of the + leaf-like forms of the octagonal designs.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pj" id="pj"></a><img src="images/platej.jpg" width= + "550" height="794" alt= + "Plate J. Primary Border-Stripes of Caucasian Rugs" title= + "Plate J. Primary Border-Stripes of Caucasian Rugs" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate J. Primary + Border-Stripes of Caucasian Rugs</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id= + "Page_229">229</a></span></p> + + <p>The stripes seen in Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, Figs. 13, 14 + and 15 are found only in nomadic rugs. The last is interesting + principally on account of the swastikas.</p> + + <p>And old form now and then seen in the Daghestan-Shirvan + classes appear in Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, Fig. 16. It is an + archaic pattern copied from a most interesting Daghestan prayer + rug.</p> + + <p>The stripe shown in Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, Fig. 17 is + sometimes adopted in rugs of Southern Caucasia, such as the + Kutais and Kazak.</p> + + <p>Another very old pattern found in the borders of the + Daghestan-Shirvan classes is shown in Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, + Fig. 18. Though it suggests the narrow tertiary stripes known as + “barber-poles,” it differs from them by being very + much wider, and by containing bars of many different colours, as + red, yellow, cream, blue, green, and brown, which generally + contain short, oblong dashes.</p> + + <p>A very interesting stripe, found almost exclusively in rugs + from the districts of Daghestan and Shirvan, is the Cufic pattern + of Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, Fig. 19. It is particularly + characteristic of old Daghestans and Kabistans, but must have + been introduced through Shirvan from Armenia, as it can be traced + through a gradation of changes to stripes of Cufic characters + used in Asia Minor rugs of the XV Century.</p> + + <p>Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, Fig. 20 represents a + “bracket-chain” pattern that probably originated in + Asia Minor, but is occasionally found in the rugs of + Caucasia.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, Fig. 21 is a stripe representing + scorpions, that is very rarely seen in Shirvans; and in Fig. 22 + is a stripe representing birds, sometimes seen in Bakus.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Secondary and Tertiary + Stripes.</span>—As the pattern shown in Plate <a href= + "#pk">K</a>, Fig. 1 (opp. Page 230) shows in profile flowers + representing carnations, it has been called the “carnation + pattern.” It is very common in Shirvans, Kabistans, and + Daghestans.</p> + + <p>Less frequently seen are the rectangular vine with a design + like a three-leaf clover, shown in Plate <a href="#pk">K</a>, + Fig. 2, and the very graceful vine with leaf and flower shown in + Fig. 3, both of which are indiscriminately used in place of the + carnation pattern in rugs with the same primary stripe. The + latter is the most dainty and graceful Caucasian floral stripe. + It is found in pieces of the Kabistan and Daghestan classes made + over a century and a half ago, and is probably of Iranian + extraction.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id= + "Page_230">230</a></span>Another floral pattern from the same + district is seen in Plate <a href="#pk">K</a>, Fig. 4. It often + accompanies the Georgian stripe of Daghestans and Soumaks, with + which its stiff drawing harmonises.</p> + + <p>Likewise, the stripe shown in Fig. 5 is found now and then in + the same classes of rugs. Similar rosettes are sometimes + represented in Persian stripes that show the influence of nomadic + weavers.</p> + + <p>Simple forms of the running vine which are seen mostly in the + rugs of Southern Caucasia are represented in Plate <a href= + "#pk">K</a>, Figs. 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10. All are old patterns. The + third appears in an Asia Minor carpet woven about 1250 + <span class="smcap">a. d.</span> The fourth is found in some of + the oldest remaining rugs from Southern Caucasia, that date back + two and a half centuries; and a pattern similar to the last is + seen in some Persian carpets made about 1650 <span class= + "smcap">a. d.</span></p> + + <p>Plate <a href="#pk">K</a>, Figs. 11 and 12 represent stripes + sometimes seen in Chichis and a few other Caucasian rugs.</p> + + <p>A very simple pattern, but one that at times is very + attractive on account of its delicate colouring, is shown in + Plate <a href="#pk">K</a>, Fig. 13, and another is shown in Fig. + 14. Both are used principally in rugs of Southern Caucasia.</p> + + <p>The stripe represented in Plate <a href="#pk">K</a>, Fig, 15, + is found in very old rugs of the Daghestan and Derbend types; and + there is a tradition among some of the native weavers that the + designs originally represented boat hooks used by the sailors of + the Caspian Sea. It is not unreasonable to suppose that the early + weavers imitated objects of utility before those of mere + ornament; but even if there is any basis for the tradition, it is + equally probable that these designs are derived from the lily or + other floral forms, and were introduced from Persia.</p> + + <p>Somewhat similar to the last is the reciprocal trefoil, which + generally appears with more simple drawing than is shown in Plate + <a href="#pf">F</a>, Fig. 17 (opp. Page 158). It is more widely + used for a border stripe than any other pattern, as it is found + in almost all Caucasian, in a large number of Persian, in Indian, + and Beluchistan rugs. It was commonly used in Persian rugs as + early as the year 1500.</p> + + <p>The dainty Chain pattern of Plate <a href="#pk">K</a>, Fig. 16 + has a well authenticated antiquity, as it is found in Asia Minor + carpets of the XV Century, from which it was probably derived. + Without doubt it was a favourite pattern three centuries ago, as + it appears in some of the early paintings in which Oriental + carpets are represented.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pk" id="pk"></a><img src="images/platek.jpg" width= + "550" height="725" alt= + "Plate K. Secondary and Tertiary Border-Stripes of Caucasian Rugs" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate K. Secondary and + Tertiary Border-Stripes of Caucasian Rugs</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id= + "Page_231">231</a></span></p> + + <p>Not infrequently the right-angled corners are rounded so as to + give it a more graceful form.</p> + + <p>As the purely geometric pattern of Plate <a href="#pk">K</a>, + Fig. 17 is entirely lacking in ornamental features, it is used + principally to separate more important stripes. Occasionally it + is found in such rugs as the Chichis and Shirvans.</p> + + <p>Another very simple pattern that is sometimes used as an + inside stripe is seen in Plate <a href="#pk">K</a>, Fig. 18. This + is evidently an archaic form and is found principally in pieces + of the Shirvan district.</p> + + <p>The reciprocal sawtooth and the running latch-hook patterns + (Plate <a href="#pk">K</a>, Figs. 19 and 20) belong to the less + important stripes of not only Caucasian but a number of Persian + rugs. The former pattern appears constantly on the monuments of + ancient Susa, and doubtless had once some symbolic meaning. The + latter is seen in the corners of the Dragon and Phœnix + carpet (Plate <a href="#p20">20</a>, opp. Page 88) which was + woven about 1350 <span class="smcap">a. d.</span></p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id= + "Page_232">232</a></span></p> + + <h4>TECHNICALITIES IN THE WEAVE OF CAUCASIAN RUGS</h4> + + <p>Legend:<br /> + <br /> + KNOT—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">H = Horizontally</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">P = Perpendicularly</span><br /> + WARP—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">g = goat’s + hair</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">e = each equally + prominent</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">d = 1 to the knot + depressed</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">h = 1 to the knot doubled + under</span><br /> + WEFT—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">No. = No. times crossing bet. two + round knots</span><br /> + SIDES—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">O = overcast</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">S = selvage</span><br /> + LOWER END<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">W = web</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">S = Selvage</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">K = Rows knots</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">L = warp loops</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">F = fringe</span><br /> + UPPER END<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">W = web</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">S = selvage</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">K = Rows knots</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">T = turned back and + hemmed</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">F = fringe</span><br /></p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="3">CAUCASIAN</td> + + <td class="center12" colspan="4">KNOT</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="6">WARP</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center12" rowspan="2">G =<br /> + Ghiordes</td> + + <td class="center8" rowspan="2">S =<br /> + Sehna</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="2">Number to<br /> + Inches</td> + + <td class="center8" rowspan="2">w=<br /> + wool</td> + + <td class="center12" rowspan="2">c=<br /> + cotton</td> + + <td class="center6" rowspan="2">s/l</td> + + <td class="center6" colspan="3">At back</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">H</td> + + <td class="center8">P</td> + + <td class="center6">e</td> + + <td class="center6">d</td> + + <td class="center6">h</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Baku<br /> + Chichi<br /> + Daghestan<br /> + Derbend<br /> + Gengha<br /> + Kabistan<br /> + Karabagh<br /> + Kasak<br /> + Kuba<br /> + Kutais<br /> + Lesghian<br /> + Shemakha<br /> + Shirvan<br /> + Shousha<br /> + Soumak<br /> + Tcherkess<br /> + Tiflis</td> + + <td class="center12">G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + G<br /> + <br /> + G<br /> + G</td> + + <td class="center8"> </td> + + <td class="center8">6-9<br /> + 7-10<br /> + 7-10<br /> + 5-9<br /> + 6-8<br /> + 7-12<br /> + 6-10<br /> + 6-9<br /> + 6-9<br /> + 5-9<br /> + 6-9<br /> + 7-11<br /> + 7-12<br /> + 7-12<br /> + 8-14<br /> + 6-9<br /> + 6-10</td> + + <td class="center8">7-11<br /> + 8-12<br /> + 8-15<br /> + 6-12<br /> + 6-9<br /> + 8-16<br /> + 7-10<br /> + 7-10<br /> + 7-13<br /> + 7-12<br /> + 6-11<br /> + 7-13<br /> + 8-12<br /> + 6-11<br /> + 6-16<br /> + 7-10<br /> + 6-10</td> + + <td class="center8">w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w</td> + + <td class="center12"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [c]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [c]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [c]</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [g]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6">e<br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + <br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + [e]<br /> + <br /> + e<br /> + <br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + e</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + [d]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + d<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + d<br /> + d<br /> + <br /> + d<br /> + <br /> + [d]<br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [h]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + h<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p> </p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="2">CAUCASIAN</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="3">WEFT</td> + + <td class="center6" colspan="2">SIDES</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">LOWER END</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">w =<br /> + wool</td> + + <td class="center12">c =<br /> + cotton</td> + + <td class="center8">No.</td> + + <td class="center6">O</td> + + <td class="center6">S</td> + + <td class="center6">W/S</td> + + <td class="center6">K</td> + + <td class="center6">L</td> + + <td class="center6">F</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Baku<br /> + Chichi<br /> + Daghestan<br /> + Derbend<br /> + Gengha<br /> + Kabistan<br /> + Karabagh<br /> + Kasak<br /> + Kuba<br /> + Kutals<br /> + Lesghian<br /> + Shemakha<br /> + Shirvan<br /> + Shousha<br /> + Soumak<br /> + Tcherkess<br /> + Tiflis</td> + + <td class="center8">w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w</td> + + <td class="center12"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [c]<br /> + <br /> + c<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [c]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center8">2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2/[1]<br /> + 2-4/[6-8]<br /> + [2]/[3]<br /> + 2<br /> + 2/[3-4]<br /> + 2<br /> + 3/[1-5]<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2/[4-6]<br /> + 3-5</td> + + <td class="center8">O<br /> + O<br /> + [O]<br /> + [O]<br /> + <br /> + O<br /> + [O]<br /> + O<br /> + <br /> + O<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [O]<br /> + <br /> + [O]<br /> + <br /> + O</td> + + <td class="center6">S<br /> + [S]<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S</td> + + <td class="center6">W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W/[S]<br /> + W/[S]<br /> + W/[S]<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W/S<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W/S<br /> + W/S<br /> + W</td> + + <td class="center8">K<br /> + K<br /> + K<br /> + [K]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [K]<br /> + <br /> + [K]<br /> + <br /> + K<br /> + <br /> + K<br /> + <br /> + K<br /> + K<br /> + <br /></td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + L<br /> + L<br /> + L<br /> + L<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + L<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /></td> + + <td class="center6">F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + <br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p> </p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="2">CAUCASIAN</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">UPPER END</td> + + <td class="center18">NAP</td> + + <td class="center18">WEAVE</td> + + <td class="center18">TEXTURE</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">W/S</td> + + <td class="center6">K</td> + + <td class="center6">T</td> + + <td class="center6">F</td> + + <td class="left18">l = long<br /> + m = medium<br /> + s = short</td> + + <td class="left18">f = fine<br /> + m = medium<br /> + c = coarse</td> + + <td class="left18">l = loose<br /> + m = medium<br /> + f = firm</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Baku<br /> + Chichi<br /> + Daghestan<br /> + Derbend<br /> + Gengha<br /> + Kabistan<br /> + Karabagh<br /> + Kasak<br /> + Kuba<br /> + Kutals<br /> + Lesghian<br /> + Shemakha<br /> + Shirvan<br /> + Shousha<br /> + Soumak<br /> + Tcherkess<br /> + Tiflis</td> + + <td class="center8">W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W/[S]<br /> + W/[S]<br /> + W/[S]<br /> + W/[S]<br /> + W/[S]<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W/S<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W/S<br /> + W/S<br /> + W</td> + + <td class="center6">K<br /> + K<br /> + K<br /> + [K]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [K]<br /> + [K]<br /> + [K]<br /> + <br /> + K<br /> + <br /> + K<br /> + <br /> + K<br /> + K<br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + T<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [T]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /></td> + + <td class="center6">F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F</td> + + <td class="center18">s<br /> + m/s<br /> + s<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + l<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m/s<br /> + m<br /> + <br /> + m<br /> + m</td> + + <td class="center18">m<br /> + m<br /> + f<br /> + m<br /> + c<br /> + m<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + m<br /> + m/c<br /> + c<br /> + m/f<br /> + m/c<br /> + m/c<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m/f</td> + + <td class="center18">m/f<br /> + m<br /> + m/f<br /> + m/l<br /> + l<br /> + m/f<br /> + l<br /> + f<br /> + m/l<br /> + m/f<br /> + f<br /> + m/f<br /> + m/l<br /> + m/f<br /> + m<br /> + f<br /> + f</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p>[] indicates the less frequent condition.</p> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id= + "Page_233">233</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER XII</h3> + + <h4>CENTRAL ASIATIC RUGS</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/t.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="T" + title="T" /></span>HE land that extends eastward about fourteen + hundred miles from the Caspian Sea to the western boundary of the + Chinese Empire, and northward for a similar distance from the + Arabian Sea through Beluchistan and Afghanistan to the steppes of + Western Siberia, is one of the least civilised parts of the + eastern continent. Here until within a few recent years, the + people lived the same untrammelled lives that their ancestors + pursued for past centuries; and the encroachments of the Russian + Empire on the north and the English on the southeast, have as yet + made little impression on their uncultured natures. To these + circumstances it is largely due that the rugs termed Central + Asiatic, which come from this district, still possess to a large + degree the originality of design, virility of character, and + beauty of colour that are so rapidly disappearing from the woven + products of countries more subject to the influence of Western + civilisation.</p> + + <p>These rugs may conveniently be divided into three natural + sub-groups, which include:</p> + + <p>1. The Turkoman, consisting of what are known in this country + as Royal and Princess Bokharas, the Tekkes, Yomuds, Khivas, and + Beshires, all of which are made in Turkestan;<a name= + "FNanchor_32" id="FNanchor_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32" class= + "fnanchor">32</a> and the Afghan, of which part are made in + Turkestan and part in Afghanistan.</p> + + <p>2. The Turko-Chinese, consisting of the Samarkands, which</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id= + "Page_234">234</a></span></p> + + <p>are made in Western Turkestan, and the Kasghars and Yarkands + made in Eastern Turkestan.</p> + + <p>3. The Beluchistans or Beluches, made principally in + Beluchistan.</p> + + <p class="tb">No other rugs adhere more strictly to uniformity of + colour and design than the Turkoman. And, when it is considered + that their prevailing tones and their simple, geometric designs + are such as would readily be adopted by people with primitive + ideas of ornamentation, it seems probable that they have been + copied with only slight modification for a great many centuries, + even though more gorgeous and elaborate carpets were woven during + the short period when Samarkand was capital of the East. This is + probably true, notwithstanding no other country in the world has + been subject to more conquests than Turkestan or overrun by so + many different races. For here, as we learn by the aid of + philology, dwelt the Aryans even before the light of history had + come to dispel the mists of antiquity. Two or three thousand + years later it was overrun by Cyrus and added to the dominion of + the Medes and Persians. In the V Century <span class="smcap">a. + d.</span>, Tartar tribes conquered it; and in the following + century Turks and Persians divided it between them. Still later + it was again overrun by the Arabs, who, sword in hand, converted + the vanquished to the creed of Islam. When a few more centuries + had rolled away the Mongol hordes of Genghis Khan swept over it; + and once again it suffered desolation under the iron hand of + Tamerlane, “Scourge of Asia.” But in spite of these + waves of conquest and the minor struggles with Persians, Greeks, + and Romans, that left their impress on the country, each of the + several classes of Turkoman rugs, including even those made two + centuries ago, show a remarkable conformity to definite types, + however much may be their modification in small detail. Their nap + is invariably short; in all of them some shade of dark red is the + predominating colour; and in most of them some form of an octagon + appears. They are, moreover, the best woven and the most + beautiful of the Central Asiatic rugs.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="m4" id="m4"></a><a href="images/map4z.jpg"><img src= + "images/map4.jpg" width="550" height="351" alt="MAP OF TURKESTAN" title="" /></a> + + <p class="center">MAP OF TURKESTAN</p> + </div> + + <p>Though the Turko-Chinese rugs are made in places subject to + the influence of Turkomans and far removed from the culture of + Chinese, they are unlike the rugs of the former and resemble + those of the latter. Not improbably this is because Tamerlane had + gathered at Samarkand noted artists and artisans from China, + whose influence continued long after his death. And as + traditional patterns have been transmitted for centuries, there + is little doubt that some of the <span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_235" id="Page_235">235</a></span>modern rugs, even though + falling far short of the standard of their early prototypes, more + closely resemble them than they do any other rugs of Asia. In + these pieces Turkoman simplicity of geometric figures is replaced + by an elaboration of conventional floral forms and by designs + associated with early philosophies; sobriety of colour yields to + the bright and even gaudy tones not infrequent in modern textile + fabrics.</p> + + <p>The Beluchistans, which are regarded as a sub-group of the + Central Asiatic rugs, show a closer relationship to the Turkoman + rugs than to any others. A few of them have octagonal patterns + suggestive of Bokharas, and all have the long webs at the ends + and the heavy goat’s hair selvage at the sides peculiar to + Afghans and Tekkes. On the other hand, many of the patterns both + of field and border resemble Persian workmanship; so that placing + these rugs in the same group with the Turkoman and Turko-Chinese + rugs, which are not made in an adjoining territory, is slightly + arbitrary.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Royal + Bokharas.</span>—The best known district in Turkestan is + the Khanate of Bokhara, which extends from the offshoots of the + lofty Pamir mountains in the east to the desolate sandy plains + beyond the Amu Daria, or Oxus river, on the west. Situated in its + northern half and near the centre of a fertile valley is its + capital, Bokhara, “The Noble.” Though noted for its + cruelty, it was once the intellectual centre of Asia, and still + possesses nearly a hundred schools and innumerable mosques. These + and its bazaars are almost all that remain of the splendour of + those days when the great caravans that came from China, India, + Persia, and Russia made it one of the great marts of the + East.</p> + + <p>On account of its commercial importance, the wild tribes of + the Kirghiz steppes, the Turkomans from Kizil Kum,<a name= + "FNanchor_33" id="FNanchor_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33" class= + "fnanchor">33</a> the Afghans who dwell north of the Paropamisus + range, and the fierce Tekkes and Yomuds from the west, came and + bartered their rugs for other necessities. Many of these rugs + were taken in caravans, that often numbered several thousand + camels, and sold in the Russian market places of Astrakan, + Orenburg, or Nijni Novgorod. Since they came from the same place, + the term Bokhara was often applied to each of the different + classes. Thus we hear of Royal Bokharas, Princess Bokharas, Tekke + Bokharas, Yomud Bokharas, and Khiva Bokharas.</p> + + <p>Of these five classes the Royal Bokharas, as a rule, not only + are <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id= + "Page_236">236</a></span>the best woven, but are made of the + finest material; even the warp of many of them is of soft, silky + white wool. The old rugs were made in the city and suburbs of + Bokhara, where now only a few pieces are made. Both old and new + are found only as sedjadehs. They have two well-known patterns, + one of which consists of an octagon surrounding a quartered + hexagon. Of these quarters, which are either plain or contain a + small triangle of contrasting colour, a pair that are opposite + are always white or cream coloured, and the other pair are of + some shade of red. Small triangular figures are invariably seen + above and below the hexagons, as well as small diamond, oval, or + spear-shaped figures at each end of the major axis. In the other + pattern the contour of the octagon is rounder; and the hexagon is + replaced by an eight-pointed star, at the centre of which is a + diamond containing a rectangle or occasionally a Greek cross. + Projecting into the four corners from the star are small designs, + that careful observation of a large number in many different + kinds of rugs shows to be leaf forms. Between the diagonally + placed octagons of both these types are stars or diamond-shaped + figures, that are usually of the same design regardless of the + shape of the octagon. In large rugs the centres of the octagons + are generally joined by straight lines of dark blue colour.</p> + + <p>It is uncertain why the term Royal has been applied to this + class of Bokharas, but it is eminently befitting the old + well-woven, velvet-like pieces. A few have small patches of pink + or ruby coloured silk; and all have a prevailing tone of red + diversified by deep blues and touches of lighter red and ivory, + that convey an idea of opulence and dignity worthy of a king.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dark + red, with minor quantities of blue, pink or orange, and ivory. + <i>Knot</i>, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally eight to twelve; + perpendicularly, sixteen to twenty-four. The rows of knots are + firmly pressed down, so that the warp is concealed at back and + the weft is almost hidden. <i>Warp</i>, fine white wool; each of + the two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back. + <i>Weft</i>, wool, of fine diameter. A thread of weft crosses + twice between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, fine wool, or + occasionally silk, clipped short. <i>Border</i>, three stripes + divided by smaller coloured lines. <i>Sides</i>, a blue double + overcasting. <i>Both ends</i>, a narrow web and short warp + fringe. <i>Texture</i>, firm. <i>Weave</i> at back is of fine + grain. <i>Usual length</i>, four to ten feet. <i>Usual width</i>, + three fifths to four fifths length.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p53" id="p53"></a><img src="images/plate53.jpg" + width="550" height="652" alt= + "Plate 53. Turkoman Rug with Katchli Pattern" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 53. Turkoman Rug + with Katchli Pattern</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id= + "Page_237">237</a></span></p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Princess + Bokharas.</span>—The rugs known as Princess Bokharas are + woven by the Mohammedan tribes who dwell in parts of the Khanate + of Bokhara. They are nearly square and the field is divided into + four equal sections by perpendicular and horizontal bands. + Because of this pattern they are called “Katchlis,” a + word derived from the Armenian language signifying “like a + cross.” The bands generally have designs that are + co-ordinate with those in part of the border; but not + infrequently the designs of the horizontal band differ from those + of the perpendicular one, and in a few rare instances consist of + an octagonal figure. It is generally believed that the well-known + Y-shaped motive characteristic of the field and the border is + intended to represent the tree of life, but some native weavers + suggest a different interpretation. To them the whole rug + symbolises a mosque; the perpendicular arm of the cross is the + entrance; the Y-shaped designs are benches; and the broad + diagonal lines with serrated edges in the borders are groves of + trees surrounding the mosque. A very large percentage of these + pieces are namazliks. One of their peculiarities is the position + of their unobtrusive tent-shaped prayer arch, which is in a panel + entirely within their upper border.</p> + + <p>Compared with Royal Bokharas their nap is rarely of as fine + quality, the warp is usually of brown instead of cream white + wool, and the weave is coarser. Also, the tones of colour are + more sombre, and of browner shades; but in rare old pieces the + rich mahogany and bronze hues of the ground, on which are + represented small designs in shades of cream and dark blue, are + exceedingly rich and pleasing. Unfortunately, within recent years + large numbers of this class have been made solely for commercial + purposes, and lack the finer qualities of their prototypes.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dark + red or brown, with minor quantities of dark blue and ivory. + <i>Knot</i>, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally eight to twelve; + perpendicularly, fourteen to eighteen. The rows of knots are + firmly pressed down, so that the warp is concealed at back and + the weft partly hidden. <i>Warp</i>, brown wool or goat’s + hair; each of the two threads of warp encircled by a knot is + equally prominent at back. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of fine diameter. A + thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. + <i>Pile</i>, wool of short or medium length; occasionally some + goat’s hair is used. <i>Border</i>, three stripes, + separated by narrow lines. <i>Sides</i>, a double overcasting or + a double goat’s hair selvage of three cords. <i>Both + ends</i>, a web and warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, + stout.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id= + "Page_238">238</a></span> <i>Weave</i> at back is of moderately + fine grain. <i>Usual length</i>, four and one half to six feet. + <i>Usual width</i>, two thirds to four fifths length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Tekkes.</span>—A little + over two centuries ago there lived on the peninsula of + Mangishlar, on the eastern shore of the Caspian Sea, an almost + unknown tribe called the “Tekke,” a term which is + said to denote a mountain goat, and was applied on account of the + headlong pace at which the men rode over rough mountain sides. + About the beginning of the XVIII Century they packed their + <i>khibitkas</i>,<a name="FNanchor_34" id= + "FNanchor_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor">34</a> + and after moving southward to escape from the attacks of a more + powerful tribe, they met the Yomuds in the southwestern corner of + Turkestan and robbed them of their lands. Further eastward they + snatched the fertile oasis of Ak-kal from some Kurds, whose + ancestors a Shah of Persia had located there in earlier times to + protect his kingdom from fierce northern tribes. By irrigating + and cultivating the soil, they prospered and increased rapidly in + population, until, about 1830, they numbered one hundred + thousand. One fourth of them then moved eastward; and after + settling on the banks of the Tajand, not far from the Persian + town of Saraks, they attacked the inhabitants of Merv and + captured the city. Growing thus to be a powerful people, they + occupied much of the country between Persia and the Amu + Daria.</p> + + <p>Ever restless, they were constantly looking for weaker foes on + whom to fall; and when a leader would announce an intended raid, + hundreds or even thousands would meet at the appointed rendezvous + prepared to blindly follow him. Sometimes it was through the + passes that looked down into the fertile valleys of Northern + Persia. Stealthily creeping through them they would fall + unexpectedly upon an unprotected village and dash away with young + women and children. If pursued, they would stab their captives, + and if necessary, ride more than one hundred miles a day in + flight. At other times, they would attack caravans crossing the + deserts and carry away both camels and wares.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p54" id="p54"></a><img src="images/plate54.jpg" + width="550" height="685" alt= + "Plate 54. Turkoman Prayer Rug, which according to A. Bogolubow has the Typical Pinde Pattern" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 54. Turkoman Prayer + Rug, which according to A. Bogolubow has the Typical + Pindé Pattern</span></p> + </div> + + <p>Their raids, however, were not viewed with complacence by the + Russians, who had been steadily advancing on the land lying + between the Caspian and the Amu Daria, and whose armies the + Tekkes harassed. At length in January, 1881, came the final death + struggle in the memorable attack on the fortress of Geok Teppe, + where thirty-three thousand tribesmen and seven thousand women + and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id= + "Page_239">239</a></span>children had taken refuge. With the fall + of that stronghold and the terrible punishment that followed, the + power of the Tekkes was completely crushed; and a people whose + ancestors for countless centuries had roamed the desert, + recognising no master, yielded finally to the advance of + civilisation.</p> + + <p>These were the people whose wives and daughters wove the rugs + generally known as Tekke Bokharas, of which large numbers with + excellent weave and sterling dyes can still be found. As few of + them were designed for mosques or palaces, it is very unusual to + find pieces over one hundred years old, and even these are rare. + Indeed, any that are now forty years old should possess great + interest, as they were woven at a time when the Tekkes were still + a fierce race. Very many have the Katchli pattern. The prayer + arch, which is similar to that of Princess Bokharas, is in a + panel exterior to the field and within the border. Not + infrequently there are three arches in the same horizontal panel, + which, as a rule, is above the field, but occasionally below it. + In a great many of these rugs the three-leaf clover is found in + some part of the field; and in the band of pile that extends + beyond the border at one end are usually small conventionalised + bushes with white and yellow flowers. The pattern shown in Plate + <a href="#pl">L</a>, Fig. 4 (opp. Page 250), appears almost + invariably in the outer stripe.</p> + + <p>There are other types, into one of which it would seem as if + the very spirit of the desert had crept. Their dark ground + colours are brightened by lighter tones that give an effect of + strange yet not inharmonious beauty. A few would seem to speak of + the early Zoroastrian faith, for in their fields are designs like + stars with effulgent rays that suggest the burning altars of fire + worshippers.</p> + + <p>The shape or some peculiarity of the rug indicates the purpose + for which it was intended. For instance, the rugs which were made + for doors of the khibitkas have at the upper end a selvage with + the web turned back and hemmed, and at each corner a heavy + braided cord of about two feet in length, by which they were + suspended. Other pieces have webs at both ends. Many beautiful + pieces are made for use on horses or camels. Those intended for + camels are of oblong shape with a field usually containing large + octagons, between which are smaller octagons similar to those in + Royal Bokharas.</p> + + <p>Tekkes may be distinguished from the Princess Bokharas, which + they resemble, by their goat’s hair selvage at the sides, + by one thread of warp to each knot being slightly depressed at + the back, and by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id= + "Page_240">240</a></span> their coarser character. There is, + however, a great similarity in the colours, though in the Tekkes + tones of deep plum and rich red are not uncommon.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dark + red, brown, or plum, with minor quantities of dark blue and + ivory. <i>Knot</i>, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally seven to + twelve; perpendicularly, nine to fourteen. The rows of knots are + slightly pressed down, but the warp shows at back. <i>Warp</i>, + wool or goat’s hair; one of the two threads encircled by a + knot is depressed below the other at back. <i>Weft</i>, wool of + fine or medium diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between + every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, or occasionally + goat’s hair of short or medium length. <i>Border</i>, three + stripes, separated by coloured lines. <i>Sides</i>, a three-cord + double goat’s hair selvage. <i>Lower end</i>, a wide + coloured web and long warp fringe. <i>Upper end</i>, a braided + selvage turned back and hemmed, or occasionally a wide coloured + web and long warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, firm. <i>Weave</i> at + back of moderately fine grain. <i>Length</i>, five to eight feet. + <i>Usual width</i>, three fifths to four fifths length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Khivas.</span>—On the + west bank of the Amu Daria, and stretching for two hundred miles + above its mouth, is the plain of the Khanate of Khiva. Most of + the people live in khibitkas, and either follow a nomad’s + life or raise from the alluvial soil, that is watered by + innumerable canals, crops of cotton, corn, and rice, as well as + melons, peaches, and pomegranates. A large population, also, + inhabits the city of Khiva, which before the building of the + Siberian railway, was on one of the direct highways between east + and west. Caravans of nearly two thousand camels regularly passed + through it en route to Orenburg in spring and to Astrakan in + fall, carrying wares from districts farther to the east as well + as its own rugs and manufactured articles.</p> + + <h4><i>COLOUR PLATE IX—SAMARKAND RUG</i></h4> + + <p><i>Although this rug is an excellent example of that class + generally known as Samarkands, it was bought in Yarkand. + Undoubtedly it was woven in some part of Turkestan that lies + between these two cities; yet with the exception of the + eight-pointed stars at the centre of the upper and lower + medallions the pattern is characteristic of Chinese + ornamentation. Surrounding the central medallion, on a ground of + rich deep blue, are six conventionalised butterflies, and near + them are four clusters of pomegranates. At each end of the field + are designs that suggest the tree of life, which under different + forms appears so persistently in the woven fabrics of the East. + The delicate drawing of these motives is accentuated by the + formal character of the four corners and by the broad border of + well-known stripes. It is a piece in which beauty of line and + colour is combined with unsolved symbolism.</i></p> + + <p class="name"><i>Loaned by Mr. Hulett C. Merritt</i></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pix" id="pix"></a><img src="images/plate_ix.jpg" + width="550" height="881" alt= + "COLOUR PLATE IX--SAMARKAND RUG" title="" /> + </div> + + <p>On account of the constant intercourse between the Khiva and + Bokhara tribes, their woven fabrics show a close relationship in + patterns and colours; yet they contain important differences. + Those made by the Khiva tribes are cruder, and reflect the effect + of constant struggles against the rigours of the desert and the + fierce Kirghiz from the steppes to the north. The wool is also + coarser and longer, and the knots are much fewer to the inch. + Occasionally geometric as well as animal designs suggestive of + Caucasian influence occur. Moreover, the brownish threads of weft + that separate each row of <span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_241" id="Page_241">241</a></span>knots, are noticeable at + the back, whereas in other Turkoman rugs the weft is hardly + perceptible.</p> + + <p>Many of the old pieces were very handsome, as is shown by the + following description of an antique goat’s hair carpet from + Khiva by Dr. Birdwood.<a name="FNanchor_35" id= + "FNanchor_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">35</a> + “The ground is of madder red, decorated with leaves and + scrolls and lozenge-shaped forms in red, white, and orange, each + lozenge being defined by a deep line of indigo blue. The ends + terminate in a fringe. Professor Vambery says that these rich + lustrous carpets are made entirely by the nomad women about + Khiva, the head worker tracing out the design in the desert sand + and handing out to her companions the dyed materials of different + colours as required in the progress of weaving.”</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dark + red, with minor quantities of blue and ivory. <i>Knot</i>, + Ghiordes or Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally six to ten; + perpendicularly, eight to fourteen. The rows of knots are but + slightly pressed down, so that the warp shows at back. + <i>Warp</i>, wool or goat’s hair; each of the two threads + encircled by a knot is equally prominent at the back. + <i>Weft</i>, wool of medium or coarse diameter. A thread of weft + crosses twice between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool + of medium length. <i>Border</i>, generally three stripes. + <i>Sides</i>, a double selvage of two or three cords, which is + generally of goat’s hair. <i>Both ends</i>, a web, one or + more rows of knots and a warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, stout. + <i>Usual length</i>, four and one half to six feet. <i>Usual + width</i>, three fifths to three quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Yomuds.</span>—When, in + 1718, the Yomuds were driven by the Tekkes from their homes in + the well-watered region about Kizil Arvat, they moved to a less + fertile country to the north and west. Though now numbering about + one hundred thousand, they have few villages; and regardless of + the dreary sand storms, the biting cold of winter, or the + terrible heat of summer, they wander with their sheep and goats + from place to place in search of more favoured spots. Sometimes + their khibitkas are seen along the border of the Caspian Sea as + far south as Astrabad in Khorassan, or among the sandy trackless + wastes of Kara Kum, nearly as far north as the Aral Sea.</p> + + <p>Many of their rugs rival the Royal Bokharas in wealth of + colour. The prevailing tone of the field is usually red or + maroon, but is sometimes rose, plum, or dark brown; and the + remaining shades <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id= + "Page_242">242</a></span>correspond with the blue, green, brown, + and white of Tekkes. Contrasted with these is the ivory ground of + the border, which, as a rule, has a much brighter colour than the + field. Furthermore, the pile of the old pieces has a lustre that + is due to the excellence of the dyes and the thick soft wool.</p> + + <p>There are several distinct types, of which only one is + well-known. Its pattern is clearly Turkoman, though the lesser + designs show that there has been frequent intercourse with the + weavers of Caucasia. Covering the field of these pieces are + regularly placed diamond-shaped figures that suggest those of the + Royal Bokharas, from which they may have been developed to the + almost entire exclusion of the octagon; though the latter appears + much less prominently in the centre of the diamonds. In the + border occurs the running latch-hook, the barber-pole stripe, and + a geometrically drawn vine. The webs of the ends, which are + usually red and striped, are broad and have a fringe of + goat’s hair, sometimes braided into ropelike tassels, but + more often hanging loose.</p> + + <p>The saddle bags are of irregular shape resembling a flat + walled tent, and contain in both field and border much brighter + colour than the rugs. Their field is checkered with + diamond-shaped figures rich in ivory colour and separated from + each other by diagonal barber-pole stripes; their border contains + the running latch-hook.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dark + red and mahogany brown, with minor quantities of blue, green, and + white. <i>Knot</i>, generally Sehna, occasionally Ghiordes. Knots + to inch horizontally five to eight; perpendicularly, seven to + ten. The rows of knots are pressed down, so that the warp is + largely concealed at back. <i>Warp</i>, coarse wool or + goat’s hair; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is + equally prominent at the back, or one is slightly depressed below + the other. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of medium diameter, or occasionally + wool mixed with goat’s hair. A thread of weft crosses twice + between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium + length. <i>Border</i>, three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, either a + two-cord selvage of red alternating with blue or brown, or a + goat’s hair double selvage of three or four cords. <i>Both + ends</i>, a broad, reddish brown web through which, as a rule, + run coloured lines or several narrow stripes, and a long warp + fringe. <i>Texture</i>, stout. <i>Weave</i> at back is moderately + coarse. <i>Usual length</i>, five to twelve feet. <i>Usual + width</i>, two thirds to three quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id= + "Page_243">243</a></span><span class= + "smcap">Beshires.</span>—On the Amu Daria and not far from + Afghanistan is a small district from which the rugs known as + Beshires now and then find their way to this country. As it is + not far from several routes of caravans, these rugs show a + relationship to the products of other Turkoman tribes. Their + colour scheme is principally the dark red and brownish tones + found in Bokharas, Yomuds, and Khivas. The ends, too, have the + web crossed by several lines, such as blue, green, and yellowish + brown, that are usual in Afghans. The patterns sometimes contain + a suggestion of the geometric figures of the Yomuds and some + Caucasian pieces; and yet they have a striking character of their + own. Not infrequently the field is covered with broad, irregular + scrolls or foliate forms, unlike anything seen in any other class + of rugs. Again the field may be occupied with a trellis pattern, + which divides it into diamond-shaped figures. Within these are + smaller diamonds surrounded by eight-pointed stars and + quasi-floral forms. The borders, as a rule, are narrow and have + simple designs that incline to the geometric; but a few are of + fair width and are ornamented with rosettes and conventionalised + leaves. In namazliks, which are rarely seen, the prayer arch lies + within the field. Almost all of this class found in this country + are old rugs; and on account of their rich, harmonious colours + and unobtrusive yet distinctive patterns, are always pleasing and + interesting.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dark + red and brown, with minor quantities of blue, yellow, and white. + <i>Knot</i>, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally seven to twelve; + perpendicularly, seven to twelve. A half knot, as it appears at + back, is as long as, or longer than, wide. The rows of knots are + pressed down, so that the warp is almost hidden at back. + <i>Warp</i>, generally goat’s hair. Each of the two threads + encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back, or occasionally + one is slightly depressed. <i>Weft</i>, wool or goat’s hair + of medium or coarse diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice + between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium + length. <i>Border</i>, generally three stripes, occasionally only + one. <i>Sides</i>, a goat’s hair selvage of two to four + cords. <i>Both ends</i>, a wide web, crossed with several + coloured stripes. <i>Texture</i>, stout. <i>Weave</i>, coarse. + <i>Length</i>, four to twelve feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two + fifths to two thirds length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Afghans.</span>—One of + the most distinctive classes of Turkoman rugs is known in this + country both as Afghans and Khivas. Both of these<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">244</a></span> names + are unfortunately applied; for their only title to be called the + latter is that many were formerly exported from the bazaars of + Khiva, and that they slightly resemble the rugs of that city. Nor + are they strictly Afghans, since they come from the territory of + mountain ridges and fertile valleys that stretches from the Hindu + Koosh Mountains northward across the eastern part of the Khanate + Bokhara, and are made by the tribesmen of both countries. In + fact, they differ considerably from the rugs of Central and + Southern Afghanistan, and bear no resemblance to those of floral + pattern woven about Herat.</p> + + <p>Within the territory where these rugs are made the Aryan and + Teutonic races have met and blended; and across it have passed + the armies of the greatest conquerors of Asia. Here still exist + some of the most untamed races of the East, feeding their flocks + on lofty table-lands, or cultivating patches of valleys, through + which flow icy streams to form the Amu Daria. Here the rights of + hospitality are held sacred, but wrongs are revenged without + recourse to any tribunal.</p> + + <p>When the antecedents, customs, and surroundings of the people + are taken into consideration, it is not strange that their rugs + should be strong and firm in texture, bold in design, positive + and striking in colour. Most of them are large and almost square + in shape, though mats are not uncommon. The traditional pattern + consists of perpendicular rows, usually three in number, of large + octagons, that are almost in contact. Between these rows are much + smaller diamond-shaped designs, which consist in some pieces of a + cluster of eight-pointed stars, and in others of a geometric + figure that is occasionally fringed with hooks and contains + within its centre an eight-pointed star.</p> + + <p>With a few exceptions the octagons, which closely resemble + those of Royal Bokharas, are symmetrical, and all their details + are drawn as regularly as if the rugs were factory woven. They + are invariably divided into quarters which usually are marked + with a small figure like a three-leaf clover. The field contains + but few adventitious designs and they are rarely animal, as the + Afghans are Sunni Mohammedans. One of the most common of these + designs, which appears also in the Tekkes and Yomuds, is probably + intended to represent part of the headstall of camel trappings. + The pattern of the border conforms to that of the field, but + frequently has crudely drawn floral forms and a conventionalised + vine. The sides have <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id= + "Page_245">245</a></span>an added selvage of brown goat’s + hair; and the ends are finished with reddish brown webs, from + which hang loose fringes of dark wool or goat’s hair.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p55" id="p55"></a><img src="images/plate55.jpg" + width="550" height="744" alt= + "Plate 55. Turkoman Rug of the Salor Tribes" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 55. Turkoman Rug of + the Salor Tribes</span></p> + </div> + + <p>As characteristic as the large bold octagons are the colours, + which however subdued are invariably of rich hues. Those of the + field consist of dark red, maroon, or reddish brown. The quarters + of the octagon are of a deep blue alternating with a red that is + lighter than the field. In some pieces this red is blood colour, + or nearly crimson, standing out in bold relief against the + adjacent blue and a field of maroon. Lines of green, orange, + yellow, and white often appear in the body of the rug; lines of + dark blue and a checkered pattern in red and blue are frequent in + the red webs of the ends.</p> + + <p>Though these rugs are, as a rule, heavier and coarser in + texture than most other Turkoman rugs, the old pieces have a soft + plushy nap of fine wool and goat’s fleece, as well as + richness of tone, that is very attractive. They are exceedingly + durable and moderate in price.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally dark + red and mahogany brown, with minor quantities of blue, green, + yellow, and white. <i>Knot</i>, generally Sehna, occasionally + Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five to eight; + perpendicularly, seven to ten. The rows of knots are pressed + down, so that the warp is largely concealed at back. <i>Warp</i>, + coarse wool or goat’s hair; each thread encircled by a knot + is equally prominent at back, or one is slightly depressed below + the other. <i>Weft</i>, wool, of medium diameter, or occasionally + wool mixed with goat’s hair. A thread of weft crosses twice + between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium + length. <i>Border</i>, three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a + goat’s hair double selvage of three or four cords. <i>Both + ends</i>, a broad web of reddish brown colour through which run + several narrow lines or several narrow stripes, and a long + fringe. <i>Texture</i>, stout. <i>Weave</i> at back is moderately + coarse. <i>Usual length</i>, five to twelve feet. <i>Usual + width</i>, two thirds to three quarters length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Samarkands.</span>—A + little over one hundred miles east of Bokhara, and on the + southern border of the desert of Red Sands, the river Zarafshan, + “Strewer of Gold,” has turned a plain of yellow loam + into an oasis. Forty-three large canals bring its waters to + fields of cotton; to vineyards; to orchards of apple, pear, + peach, and pomegranate; and to gardens of fragrant flowers. Here + is Samarkand, “The Mirror of the World.” Few cities + as old remain after passing<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_246" id="Page_246">246</a></span> through so many + vicissitudes of fortune. Alexander forced his way through its + gates, the Chinese Empire annexed it, and finally Tamerlane + seized and made it the magnificent capital of one third of the + known world. His tomb and other remaining monuments attest the + grandeur of that time when there was fostered here the art, the + luxury, and the splendour of the East.</p> + + <p>The rugs known as Samarkands are woven in a district somewhat + eastward from the city and are often called + “Malgarans.” They are not to be compared with the + magnificent carpets that adorned the palaces and mosques of the + capital of Tamerlane; yet they possess a special interest, as in + them are combined features derived from both Eastern and Western + Asia. Either because this city, known as Samo-Kien, was once part + of the Chinese Empire, or as is more probable, because it is on + one of the great highways of caravan travel between China and + Western Asia, the Chinese element is particularly noticeable. It + appears in the colours that are in strong contrast; in the + general pattern that shows little affinity for those of Persian + or West Asian rugs; and even in the weave, in which silk is + occasionally mixed with the wool of both warp and pile.</p> + + <p>The ground colour of the field is usually some shade of red or + madder, with blue and yellow appearing conspicuously in the + principal designs and border stripes. Or again, the field may be + blue, soft brown, gray, or tan, with which the colours of the + designs and borders, that may contain red, yellow, and blue, + invariably appear in strong contrast.</p> + + <p>Few rugs have a more noticeable pattern, which consists + principally of rounded medallions. If there be but one, it is in + the centre; and if there be many, one is at each corner. They are + usually ornamented with Chinese scrolls or some geometric design, + as an eight-pointed star; but dragons, birds, or fishes are not + uncommon. Occasionally, also, flowers of Persian design, with + eight rounded petals, appear in the medallion, and others of + larger size cover the field; or they may even exclude the + medallion and constitute the principal motive. Some simple design + in fretwork gives finish to the corners of the field, which is + further covered with Chinese butterflies, scrolls, or archaic + flower forms. The borders are equally distinctive, and unlike + those of Chinese rugs are relatively wide and consist of several + stripes surrounded by an edging of uniform colour. One of the + stripes has generally a stiffly undulating vine; another a + continuous swastika design; and a third is marked with frets, the + bar<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id= + "Page_247">247</a></span>ber-pole design, or a design which by + some is regarded as the sacred Chinese mountain rising from the + waves. In most pieces warp and weft are loosely woven, and the + pile is of a medium grade of wool; but in very old pieces the + wool is fine and lustrous.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + blue, and yellow. <i>Knot</i>, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally + six to eight; perpendicularly, five to eight. Each half knot, as + it appears at back, is as long as, or longer than, wide. The rows + of knots are not firmly pressed down, so that the warp shows at + back. <i>Warp</i>, generally cotton, occasionally wool; one of + the two threads encircled by a knot is doubled under the other. + <i>Weft</i>, generally cotton, occasionally wool, of coarse + diameter and frequently dyed. A thread of weft crosses twice, + between every two rows of knots, and occasionally three times. + <i>Pile</i>, wool, of medium length. <i>Border</i>, three stripes + with a pink edging. <i>Sides</i>, a red or pink overcasting. + <i>Lower end</i>, web and warp loops. <i>Upper end</i>, web and + warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, moderately firm. <i>Weave</i> at + back, rather coarse. <i>Length</i>, six to fourteen feet. + <i>Usual width</i>, one half to three fifths length.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Kashgars and + Yarkands.</span>—Among the foothill plains at the western + end of the Chinese Empire, are the mud-walled cities of Kashgar + and Yarkand, that were ancient even in the days when Marco Polo + visited there. Situated in populous and fertile districts, each + has been a city of political and industrial importance; but on + account of the great divides that separate them from Western + Turkestan, Persia, and India, their commerce has been principally + with Thibet and China. Thus it has happened that only within + recent years have any of their textile fabrics reached Europe and + America, where they are still almost unknown. Yet even in the + remote past, these cities gained a reputation for the culture of + silk and the weaving of carpets. Moreover, at different periods + they were centres of luxury, so that it may safely be assumed + that many of their woven products were of a high order of + excellence.</p> + + <p>These rugs, to be sure, come from a district lying within the + Chinese Empire; but it is so remote from the centres where the + well-known Chinese rugs have been and are woven, and is so much + nearer to West Turkestan and Afghanistan, that it seems best to + place them in the Central Asiatic group.</p> + + <p>As a rule, such pieces as reach this country show crude + workmanship entirely lacking in graceful floral patterns or + artistic draw<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id= + "Page_248">248</a></span>ing. Octagonal forms, animals, and even + mythical creatures are often distributed over the fields so as to + give them a decidedly Chinese character. The narrow border + stripes ornamented with the swastika and fret forms are often + similar to some of the Samarkand stripes. The colours, which lack + the subdued richness of Persian pieces, are often light; but they + occasionally consist largely of tones of dark blue and red which + show Turkoman influences. Most of these rugs are interesting on + account of their quaintness and individuality; but few compare in + quality of material, weave, or artistic finish with other classes + of this group.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Beluches or + Beluchistans.</span>—“When creating the world, the + Almighty made Beluchistan out of the refuse” are the words + of an old proverb, that refers to a land which formerly produced + some of the most interesting rugs of the East. In fact, the + thought is not surprising when the desolate character of the + country is considered; for a sandy, waterless waste stretches + over the greater part, and only in a corner to the northeast and + in narrow strips, where streams from mountain sides water small + valleys, is any cultivation. Across this sparsely settled land + and farther westward into the southeastern part of Persia, + untamed tribes of Beluches and Brahoes wander with their sheep, + goats, and large numbers of camels. Their rugs, woven on crudely + made looms, bear little resemblance to the more artistic floral + pieces of the Indian weavers to the east or to those of Kirman to + the west. Nor are they closely related to the Turkoman rugs with + which they are usually grouped. In fact, they possess an + individuality that once recognised is never forgotten; an + individuality due to the isolated condition of a country that is + protected from its nearest neighbours by barriers of deserts and + mountain ridges, and is possessed by a still unconquered people. + To these circumstances, also, it is due that the rugs are rarely + coloured with aniline dyes, though many modern pieces have been + chemically washed by dealers.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p56" id="p56"></a><img src="images/plate56.jpg" + width="500" height="862" alt="Plate 56. Yomud Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 56. Yomud + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>One of the most distinguishing features of Beluchistans are + their tones of colour, that rarely depart from traditional usage. + They are principally a red of the shade of madder, a blue with + purple cast, and a dark brown that has sometimes a slight olive + tinge, particularly when appearing in the webs. Frequently, too, + dull tones of green are seen. Contrasting with these more subdued + ground colours is almost invariably some ivory which appears as + small detached <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id= + "Page_249">249</a></span>figures in part of the border, or as + outlines of principal designs. The patterns also show + individuality and diversity. Most frequently they are geometric + and represent some ill defined octagons suggesting Turkoman rugs. + Or they may consist of a field covered with diagonal bands, with + large lozenges, or medallions, all of which are decorated + profusely with latch-hooks. Still others have some crudely drawn + flower design, as the Mina Khani, that tells of Persian + influences.</p> + + <p>A fair proportion have the prayer pattern, consisting of a + large rectangular shaped mihrab, which is as high as, and + frequently higher than, wide. The borders, as a rule, consist of + three or four stripes. The main stripe is geometric and in the + guard stripes are running latch-hooks or the reciprocal trefoil, + though occasionally they are replaced by some conventionalised + vine or ribbon pattern.</p> + + <p>Proportionally to their length few other rugs have such long + webs at the end, though they are sometimes entirely worn away + while the body of the rug is still serviceable. They are usually + coloured in harmony with the colours of the field, and are marked + with embroidered lines or simple designs. No other rugs have a + surface with more lustrous sheen, due to the soft, fine wool of + the pile, which in old pieces is short and closely woven, giving + a play of colours, and velvety appearance unsurpassed by any + other nomadic rugs. Many of the choicest pieces of Beluchistan + weave now on the market are the small saddle bags, that are of + rich yet subdued colours, and possess the character and sheen of + very old rugs.</p> + + <p><i>Type Characteristics.</i> <i>Colours</i>, principally red, + blue, and brown, with minor quantities of white. <i>Knot</i>, + Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally six to nine; perpendicularly, + seven to ten. The rows of knots are usually pressed down, so that + the warp does not show at back. <i>Warp</i>, wool; each of the + two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back, or + one is slightly depressed below the other. <i>Weft</i>, of + coarse, wiry wool, of medium diameter. A thread of weft crosses + twice between every two rows of knots. <i>Pile</i>, wool, and + occasionally camel’s hair, of medium length. <i>Border</i>, + three stripes. <i>Sides</i>, a heavy goat’s hair selvage of + three or four cords. <i>Both ends</i>, a broad embroidered web + with warp fringe. <i>Texture</i>, slightly loose. <i>Weave</i> at + back is moderately coarse. <i>Usual length</i>, four and one half + to six feet. <i>Usual width</i>, two thirds to three quarters + length.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id= + "Page_250">250</a></span></p> + + <h4>BORDER STRIPES</h4> + + <p>The border stripes of the Central Asiatic group are even more + geometric than the Caucasian; for it is rarely that any floral + forms are seen in them, though they may appear in the pile that + extends beyond the borders of the ends. Even the vines are so + angular as almost to lose their identity. Octagonal figures, + stars, frets, and latch-hooks are common. In fact, the group as a + whole, shows the influence of the Caucasian and Chinese groups + more than the Persian.</p> + + <h4>PRIMARY STRIPES</h4> + + <p>The stripe shown in Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, Fig. 1 (opp. + Page 250) is one of many found in the rugs known as Royal + Bokharas. The eight-pointed stars, as well as the small tent-like + designs, which may have been derived from the headstalls of + horses, are almost always found in it.</p> + + <p>A well-known stripe of Princess Bokharas corresponding with + the pattern of the field, appears in Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, + Fig. 2. It represents a continuous series of designs shaped like + a Y, that were doubtless derived from forms of trees. More + frequently the stripe (Fig. 3) of broad, serrated diagonal lines, + that originally may have been intended to represent foliage, is + seen.</p> + + <p>Another stripe found in Princess Bokharas and also in Tekkes + and Khivas is shown in Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, Fig. 4. It + forcibly suggests the Chinese fret. Sometimes it is used as a + primary but more frequently as a secondary stripe.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, Fig. 5, is a stripe frequently + seen in Tekkes, which is interesting on account of the + eight-pointed stars and latch-hooks similar to those of Caucasian + rugs. Without doubt this is only one of the many instances + illustrating the migration of designs.</p> + + <p>Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, Fig. 6 represents a stripe peculiar + to Yomuds. The running vine is most mechanically drawn and + fringed with latch-hooks, which are a constant feature of this + class.</p> + + <p>Another Yomud stripe with vine in which serrations take the + place of latch-hooks is shown in Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, Fig. + 7. Pendent from the vine are other hooks shaped like frets.</p> + + <p>Very similar to an old Caucasian stripe is the one represented + in Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, Fig. 8; but in this stripe the + small designs are drawn so that the proportion of length to width + is greater; and it is probable that they were copied from a + wreath of leaves. This stripe is very commonly seen in + Beluchistans.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pl" id="pl"></a><img src="images/platel.jpg" width= + "550" height="726" alt= + "Plate L. Primary and Secondary Border-stripes of Central Asiatic Rugs" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate L. Primary and + Secondary Border-stripes of Central Asiatic Rugs</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id= + "Page_251">251</a></span></p> + + <p>Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, Fig. 9 represents a mechanically + drawn vine found in Beshires.</p> + + <p>Well-known Afghan stripes are shown in Plate <a href= + "#pl">L</a>, Figs. 10 and 11.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, Figs. 12 and 13 are two of the + most typical and interesting stripes of Samarkands and Yarkands. + The first is supposed to represent the sacred mountain of Chinese + lore rising out of the waves. The second is a vine with leaves + and flowers, which suggest Persian influences.</p> + + <p>A stripe with simple archaic pattern peculiar to Yarkands is + seen in Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, Fig. 14.</p> + + <h4>SECONDARY STRIPES</h4> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, Fig. 15 (opp. Page 250), is a + well-known form of a secondary stripe found in Royal + Bokharas.</p> + + <p>A stripe seen in both Princess Bokharas and Tekkes is shown in + Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, Fig. 16. It bears a slight resemblance + to some conventionalised vines found in other groups.</p> + + <p>Stripes of running latch-hooks (Plate <a href="#pk">K</a>, + Fig. 20, opp. Page 230) are frequently found in Yomuds, and + occasionally in Beluchistans.</p> + + <p>In Beluchistans the reciprocal trefoils, so well-known in + Caucasian and Persian rugs, are very frequently used.</p> + + <p>The pattern of a double vine, illustrated in Plate <a href= + "#pl">L</a>, Fig. 17, is a Beshire stripe that suggests a Persian + influence.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, Fig. 18, is the narrow pear + stripe that appears in a very large number of Afghans and in some + Khivas.</p> + + <p>Two well-known stripes that belong to Samarkands are shown in + Plate <a href="#pl">L</a>, Figs. 19 and 20. The pattern of the + conventionalised vine speaks of Persian origin, and the swastikas + suggest Chinese origin.</p> + + <p>In Tekkes, Yomuds, Afghans, and Beluchistans the small + barber-pole stripes are constantly employed.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id= + "Page_252">252</a></span></p> + + <h4>TECHNICALITIES IN THE WEAVE OF CENTRAL ASIATIC RUGS</h4> + + <p>Legend:<br /> + <br /> + KNOT—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">H = Horizontally</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">P = Perpendicularly</span><br /> + WARP—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">g = goat’s + hair</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">e = each equally + prominent</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">d = 1 to the knot + depressed</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">h = 1 to the knot doubled + under</span><br /> + WEFT—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">g = goat’s + hair</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">No. = No. times crossing bet. two + round knots</span><br /> + SIDES—<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">O = overcasting</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">S = selvage</span><br /> + LOWER END<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">W = web</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">S = Selvage</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">K = Rows knots</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">L = warp loops</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">F = fringe</span><br /> + UPPER END<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">W = web</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">S = selvage</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">K = Rows knots</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">T = turned back and + hemmed</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">F = fringe</span><br /></p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="3">CENTRAL<br /> + ASIATIC</td> + + <td class="center12" colspan="4">KNOT</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="6">WARP</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center12" rowspan="2">G =<br /> + Ghiordes</td> + + <td class="center8" rowspan="2">S =<br /> + Sehna</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="2">Number to<br /> + Inches</td> + + <td class="center8" rowspan="2">w=<br /> + wool</td> + + <td class="center12" rowspan="2">c=<br /> + cotton</td> + + <td class="center6" rowspan="2">g</td> + + <td class="center6" colspan="3">At back</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">H</td> + + <td class="center8">P</td> + + <td class="center6">e</td> + + <td class="center6">d</td> + + <td class="center6">h</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Afghan<br /> + Beluchistan<br /> + Beshire<br /> + Princess Bokhara<br /> + Royal Bokhara<br /> + Tekke Bokhara<br /> + Khivah<br /> + Samarkand<br /> + Yomuk</td> + + <td class="center12">G<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + G<br /> + <br /> + [G]</td> + + <td class="center8">S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + S</td> + + <td class="center8">5-8<br /> + 6-9<br /> + 6-9<br /> + 8-12<br /> + 8-12<br /> + 7-12<br /> + 6-10<br /> + 6-8<br /> + 7-12</td> + + <td class="center8">7-10<br /> + 7-10<br /> + 8-11<br /> + 16-24<br /> + 14-18<br /> + 9-14<br /> + 8-14<br /> + 5-8<br /> + 9-17</td> + + <td class="center8">w<br /> + w<br /> + [w]<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + [w]<br /> + w</td> + + <td class="center12"> <br /> + <br /> + [c]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + c<br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6">[g]<br /> + [g]<br /> + g<br /> + <br /> + [g]<br /> + [g]<br /> + [g]<br /> + <br /> + g</td> + + <td class="center6">e<br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + e<br /> + <br /> + e<br /> + <br /> + e</td> + + <td class="center6">d<br /> + d<br /> + [d]<br /> + [d]<br /> + <br /> + d<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [d]</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + h<br /> + </td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p> </p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="2">CENTRAL<br /> + ASIATIC</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">WEFT</td> + + <td class="center6" colspan="2">SIDES</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">LOWER END</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">w =<br /> + wool</td> + + <td class="center12">c =<br /> + cotton</td> + + <td class="center8">s/j</td> + + <td class="center8">No.</td> + + <td class="center6">O</td> + + <td class="center6">S</td> + + <td class="center6">W/S</td> + + <td class="center6">K</td> + + <td class="center6">L</td> + + <td class="center6">F</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Afghan<br /> + Beluchistan<br /> + Beshire<br /> + Princess Bokhara<br /> + Royal Bokhara<br /> + Tekke Bokhara<br /> + Khivah<br /> + Samarkand<br /> + Yomuk</td> + + <td class="center8">w<br /> + w<br /> + [w]<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + w<br /> + [w]<br /> + w</td> + + <td class="center12"> <br /> + <br /> + [c]<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + c<br /> + </td> + + <td class="center8"> <br /> + <br /> + g <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center8">2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2/[1]<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2<br /> + 2</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + O<br /> + O<br /> + <br /> + <br /> + O<br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6">S<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + <br /> + [S]<br /> + S<br /> + S<br /> + <br /> + S</td> + + <td class="center8">W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + [W]<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W</td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + K<br /> + <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + L<br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6">F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + <br /> + F</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p> </p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="1"> + <tr> + <td class="center20" rowspan="2">CENTRAL<br /> + ASIATIC</td> + + <td class="center8" colspan="4">UPPER END</td> + + <td class="center18">NAP</td> + + <td class="center18">WEAVE</td> + + <td class="center18">TEXTURE</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="center8">W/S</td> + + <td class="center6">K</td> + + <td class="center6">T</td> + + <td class="center6">F</td> + + <td class="left18">l = long<br /> + m = medium<br /> + s = short</td> + + <td class="left18">f = fine<br /> + m = medium<br /> + c = coarse</td> + + <td class="left18">l = loose<br /> + m = medium<br /> + f = firm</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left20">Afghan<br /> + Beluchistan<br /> + Beshire<br /> + Princess Bokhara<br /> + Royal Bokhara<br /> + Tekke Bokhara<br /> + Khivah<br /> + Samarkand<br /> + Yomuk</td> + + <td class="center8">W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W<br /> + W</td> + + <td class="center6"> </td> + + <td class="center6"> <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + [T] <br /> + </td> + + <td class="center6">F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F<br /> + F</td> + + <td class="center18">m<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + s<br /> + m/s<br /> + m/s<br /> + m<br /> + m<br /> + m</td> + + <td class="center18">m/c<br /> + c<br /> + c<br /> + f<br /> + m/s<br /> + m/f<br /> + m<br /> + c<br /> + m/c</td> + + <td class="center18">f<br /> + m/l<br /> + f<br /> + f<br /> + f<br /> + f<br /> + f<br /> + m<br /> + f</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p>[] indicates the less frequent condition.</p> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id= + "Page_253">253</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER XIII</h3> + + <h4>INDIAN RUGS</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/t.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="T" + title="T" /></span>HROUGHOUT parts of India are woven rugs known + as <i>Dari</i>, which are unlike the rugs of any other country. + They are pileless cotton fabrics, that may represent an + indigenous craft old as the Aryan migrations. Their designs are + of the simplest order; usually no more than plain stripes of + blue, red, and black, or only blue and white modified + occasionally by simple geometric figures. Furthermore, their + workmanship is poor, so that they possess little artistic merit. + Some pieces of large size are exported, but they awaken but + little interest compared with other kinds of rugs.</p> + + <p>The weaving of pile carpets in India, on the other hand, does + not appear to have been the result of spontaneous growth or to + have flourished without artificial encouragement. It was probably + introduced by the Saracens, but carpets of elaborate design and + workmanship were not made till the reign of Shah Akbar, who + imported Persian weavers. Under his patronage and the + encouragement of his royal successors, the manufacture of pieces + that rivalled those of Persia continued for a hundred years, but + after the death of Shah Jahan, in 1658, the industry began to + decline. Nevertheless, for nearly a hundred years longer + excellent fabrics were produced as the result of the system that + was maintained in all the provinces by lesser potentates. This + system, which was also in vogue in parts of Persia, is described + by Dr. George Birdwood as follows: “The princes and great + nobles and wealthy gentry, who are the chief patrons of these + grand fabrics, collect together in their own houses and palaces + all who gain a reputation for special skill in their manufacture. + These men receive a fixed salary and daily rations and are so + little hurried in their work that they have plenty of time to + execute private orders also. Their salaries are continued even + when through age or accident they are past work; and on their + death they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id= + "Page_254">254</a></span> pass to their sons, should they have + become skilled in their father’s art. Upon the completion + of any extraordinary work, it is submitted to the patron; and + some honour is at once conferred on the artist and his salary + increased. It is under such conditions that the best art work of + the East has always been produced.”</p> + + <p>After the overthrow of the Mogul dominion by Nadir Shah, in + 1731, the production of carpets rapidly diminished and the + quality deteriorated. This was due to several causes. With the + conquests of the East Indian Company, that began in the middle of + the XVIII Century, and the extension of trade into every + district, large quantities of antique carpets became the property + of the Company or of those in its employ. Many of them, including + sumptuous pieces that had adorned the palaces of the descendants + of Tamerlane, found their way to England. Thus were removed many + of the masterpieces that had been an inspiration to the weavers. + Moreover, with the overthrow of native princes their patronage + ceased; and later, when looms were established in jails for the + employment of convicts, undesirable competition reduced the wages + of free labour. Still more pernicious was the introduction of + aniline dyes, and the elimination of individual taste by + supplying patterns, that were often of European origin, to be + mechanically copied. Thus it followed that, in spite of the + efforts of Mr. Robinson and of others, for nearly half a century, + to resuscitate the art and restore it to its former condition, + weaving in India, to-day, rests purely on a commercial basis; and + the workmanship is almost as mechanical as the manufacture of + machine-made carpets in Europe or America.</p> + + <p>Yet to the cloud hanging over the weaving of India is a + brighter lining. European companies have established factories + where natives are employed making rugs that in quality equal the + products of Smyrna and Sultanabad. Some of them, indeed, are even + more firmly woven than the Persian products from which they are + copied. In many of the towns, also, are looms where the weavers, + who are mostly boys, enjoy more independence. Moreover, the + companies, realising that the future of their business depends on + the quality of the fabrics, are largely discarding aniline dyes. + It is now possible, therefore, to obtain Indian rugs of excellent + workmanship and colours at very moderate prices; but + individuality, representative of native character and + temperament, is entirely lacking; and in its place is simply a + reproduction of Persian or European patterns.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p57" id="p57"></a><img src="images/plate57.jpg" + width="550" height="786" alt="Plate 57. Beshire Prayer Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 57. Beshire Prayer + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>Any arrangement of these rugs in sub-groups must be arbitrary, + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id= + "Page_255">255</a></span>as similar conditions of early foreign + influence, royal patronage, and the jail and factory systems, + have prevailed throughout India. Yet since the northern part has + been more directly under the influence of the courts and more + intimately connected with Herat, which seems to have left a + strong impress on the weavings of all the surrounding country, it + is convenient to make a distinction between the rugs of Northern + and Southern India.</p> + + <p>The principal rug-producing centres of Northern India at + present are Srinagar, Amritsar, Lahore, Multan, Allahabad, Agra, + Mirzapur, Sindh, Jubbulpur, and Jaipur.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Srinagar</span>.—From the + extreme northern part of India come the rugs of Kashmir, which + are often named after the capital of the province, Srinagar, the + “City of the Sun.” To a large extent, they resemble + the far more famous shawls that were woven in the central valley, + where winds the Jhelum, that some believe first suggested the + pear design. The pieces woven before the British occupation of + India were of excellent quality and contained delicate colour + schemes, that were exceedingly pleasing; but the products of the + last half century show deterioration. The colours are harsher, + the mechanical drawing of the patterns show European influence, + and the borders resemble too closely the central field to have + distinct characters. Yet many of them are now dyed with vegetable + colours, and are stoutly woven with the soft and silky wool for + which this district is renowned.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Amritsar</span>.—On + account of famine and several other causes, a large number of the + people of Kashmir migrated about the year 1840. Some of them + settled at Amritsar, where they followed their former craft of + making shawls, until a change of fashion, that occurred about the + year 1870, deprived many of their occupation. These turned to rug + weaving and thus gave an impetus to that industry.</p> + + <p>Amritsar is now the most populous and wealthy city of the + Punjab; and as some twenty thousand men and boys are employed at + the looms, it is one of the leading rug-producing centres of + India. Yet before the exhibition of Indian rugs at the + World’s Fair in Chicago, in 1893, there had not been any + demand in this country for its rugs. For a long period it has + been the home of weavers who found in the surrounding mountains + and valleys the best of wool, but<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_256" id="Page_256">256</a></span> before the revival of the + industry their patterns and workmanship were of an inferior + character. Under the factory system, conducted by American and + English firms, has been a marked improvement. Both dyes and wool + are excellent, and the technique of weave equals what is found in + the best of Persian products, to the square inch are frequently + two hundred Sehna knots; and since when tying a knot one thread + of warp is doubled under the other, as in Bijars, and the threads + of weft are pressed down very firmly, the texture is unusually + close. The nap is short; the sides are overcast; and as a rule, + the lower end has a cotton web and the upper end a web and + fringe. The moderate prices for rugs of such excellent dyes and + workmanship are possible only on account of the wage of the + weaver, which does not exceed one eighth what he would receive in + this country.</p> + + <p>There is nothing, however, in the pattern to distinguish these + rugs from others; for in the drawing the greatest latitude is + exercised. It may be a copy of a European carpet, or some Indian + or Iranian antique. Of recent years, many well-known modern + Persian patterns have been followed, so that not infrequently + these pieces are mistaken for the products of Kermanshah or + Sultanabad.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Lahore</span>.—About the + year 1580, the imperial carpet factory of Shah Akbar was + established at Lahore, the capital of the Punjab; where during + the reign of the Mogul princes were produced many of the best + examples of Indian weaving. It was here that, in 1634, was woven + the well-known carpet now in the possession of the + Girdler’s Company of London. Some of the pieces that still + remain show wonderful delicacy of drawing and brilliancy of + colouring. At a much later period, under the British rule, the + jail system of weaving was inaugurated, and rugs were made with + both woollen and cotton foundation. Within more recent years the + factory system followed; and on account of the nearness of + Amritsar to the capital, some foreign firms have weaving + establishments in both cities. It is not surprising, then, that + there should be a resemblance in their products, which is seen in + the finish of sides and ends and in the character of weaving, + which usually shows one thread of warp to each knot doubled under + the other; but as a rule the rugs of Lahore come in lighter + shades and are woven with fewer knots to the square inch. In the + guards of the border often appear geometric figures; but the + patterns in other respects largely follow well-known<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">257</a></span> Persian + drawing, though leaf and flower are more artistically portrayed + and the designs are less crowded.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Multans</span>.—One of + the most ancient cities of the Punjab is Multan, which during the + vicissitudes of centuries was more than once captured by early + Mohammedan conquerors and also by Tamerlane. Its woven fabrics + are of three types: the <i>Dari</i>, which are made almost + exclusively in the jails; rugs of cotton pile, that have been + made only within the last sixty years; and rugs of woollen pile, + that have been produced for an unknown period. As the looms on + which they are made are unlike those of other districts, and the + weavers are but little affected by external influences, it is not + surprising that the pile carpets not only display uniqueness of + pattern rarely seen in other Indian pieces but also possess + peculiarities of weaving as well as of material. Usually they are + of moderate size, but some have a breadth of twelve feet. There + are seldom more than one hundred knots to the square inch and + occasionally only nine, so that the texture is coarse. Not + infrequently a single knot encircles four threads of warp, and + between two rows of knots is a single thread of weft. Almost all + of the weavers are Mohammedans, who have a tradition that they + originally came from Persia; yet their products contain few of + the Iranian characteristics, since the field is usually occupied + by geometric designs or crudely drawn floral patterns. As is + seldom the case with weavers who dwell in cities, these dye their + own wool, using both vegetable and aniline dyes. The principal + colours are bold and strongly contrasting tones of red, yellow, + and blue. Some of the cotton rugs, however, have a single colour + of bluish shade. On the whole, the Multan rugs possess great + individuality but little artistic merit.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Agra</span>.—Almost + within sight of the minarets of the Taj Mahal are prison walls + where convicts of Agra ploddingly weave. In 1891, Dr. John Hurst + “saw a long row of prisoners for life, who were chained to + each other by the feet, engaged in weaving a rug for Queen + Victoria, and another for the ex-Empress Eugenie.” Most of + these pieces are of cotton foundation. Each thread of warp is + equally prominent at the back, and the texture is looser than in + Amritsars. The nap is short, and the fibres of the knots blend + well together. Not infrequently the fields are monotones of + delicate shades of blue, green, or fawn colour. As a rule, the + rugs are very large and heavy; and<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_258" id="Page_258">258</a></span> it would seem that this + has always been the case, as Mr. Robinson suggested that the + reason for establishing looms at this place was the early demand + for carpets too large to be imported on elephants.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class= + "smcap">Allahabad</span>.—Situated like Benares on the + banks of the Ganges, and next to it the most sacred city of India + to the faithful Brahman, is Allahabad, capital of the + northwestern provinces. Its geographic and political importance, + as well as the fact that each year half a million or more + devotees visit it, have been important factors in the growth of + its industries, one of which is the weaving of rugs. Yet the + numbers produced have never been great. As a rule they are of + large size, and are loosely woven with each thread of warp + equally distinct at the back. Few of them equal the best examples + of the Amritsar looms.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Mirzapur</span>.—When it + is considered that Mirzapur is the centre of a very populous + cotton-producing district in the valley of the Ganges, to the + west of Benares, and is the seat of important manufactures, it is + not surprising that it is noted for its carpets. Those made half + a century ago were well woven and dyed with fast colours, but + largely on account of the employment of convicts, the texture of + those made since then is coarse and loose, the patterns are poor, + the colours crude. To a limited extent a higher grade of wool has + been imported as a substitute for the harsh local product, but + the result has not been satisfactory. These rugs accordingly find + small favour among those who appreciate artistic qualities, and + give little satisfaction where durability is the chief requisite. + It should be noted, however, that within recent years efforts + have been made to raise their standard.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Jubbulpur</span>.—Two + hundred miles to the southwest of Allahabad is Jubbulpur, capital + of a district of over half a million people. A century ago many + beautiful rugs were woven there; but since the establishment of a + School of Industry, in 1850, the character of weaving has + retrograded rather than advanced. In 1880, Dr. Birdwood wrote of + its rugs as follows: “The foundation, as now scamped is + quite insufficient to carry the heavy pile which is a feature of + this work; and is moreover so short in the staple as to be + incapable of bearing the tension even of the process of + manufacture. Jubbulpur carpets often reach this country (England) + which will not bear <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id= + "Page_259">259</a></span>sweeping, or even unpacking. I know of + two which were shaken to pieces in the attempt to shake the dust + out of them when first unpacked. The designs once had some local + character, but have lost it during the last four or five + years.” Within recent years few have been exported.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p58" id="p58"></a><img src="images/plate58.jpg" + width="550" height="787" alt="Plate 58. Beshire Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 58. Beshire + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Sindh</span>.—Formerly + good rugs were woven at Sindh, one hundred miles above the mouth + of the Indus; but after the introduction of aniline dyes their + colours, as well as patterns, deteriorated. In the poorest pieces + the foundation was of cotton and hemp, and cow hair was + frequently used for pile. Very few of them have been imported + into this country.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Jaipur</span>.—In the + palace of the Maharajah at Jaipur, the great commercial centre of + Rajputana, are some of the most beautiful carpets that remain in + India. Native appreciation is also apparent in the present + workmanship of the district weavers. There is nothing crass or + inelegant in the patterns which follow the pleasing drawing of + Persian rugs. The vine, leaf, and flower, trees, and animals are + faithfully portrayed. The texture of weave is excellent.</p> + + <p>The principal rug-producing centres of Southern India are + Madras, Marsulipatam, Ellore, Vellore, and Bangalore. Rugs are + also woven in Hyderabad, Warangal, and Ayyampet in the Tanjore + district.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Madras</span>.—Only + within a comparatively recent period have rugs been made at + Madras, the early stronghold of the British in South India. Over + half a century ago, native products, woven in the interior towns + of the Dekkan, were shipped by way of Coconada to that city and + were sometimes known as Madras rugs. Two of these pieces, which + were sent by Mr. Vincent Robinson to the South Kensington Museum, + differ widely in harmony of colours, beauty of design, and + delicacy of workmanship from the present products of Madras. Yet + the latter have much to commend them. Some are made in the jail, + others in the School of Fine Arts, and others in the Anjuman + Industrial School. All are made of good wool, coloured with + vegetable dyes. Great diversity appears in the patterns, as some + are copied from antique carpets represented in the “Vienna + Carpet Book,” others are copied from rugs of Northern + India, Persia,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id= + "Page_260">260</a></span> and Asia Minor. As a rule, the fields + are well covered with repetitive designs, that give them the + appearance of factory-made carpets.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Marsulipatam</span>.—Two + hundred and fifty miles north of Madras on the Coromandel coast + is the city of Marsulipatam, one of the earliest of the British + settlements in India, from which the East India Company shipped + rugs over two centuries ago. At that time they were among the + finest produced in that country, but the demands of agents for + articles that could be produced as cheaply as possible resulted + in the use of inferior materials and in poorer workmanship. Most + of the dyes are aniline. The patterns, that once were executed + with marvelous beauty of detail, gave way to crude drawing until + “these glorious carpets of Marsulipatam have sunk to a + mockery and travesty of their former selves.”<a name= + "FNanchor_36" id="FNanchor_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36" class= + "fnanchor">36</a> Few of them are any longer imported into this + country.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Ellore</span>.—Not far + from the delta of the Godavari river is the town of Ellore, where + a few centuries ago some Persians settled, and where their + descendants, faithful to early tradition, have followed the craft + of weaving. Here in former times were produced some of the best + rugs in Southern India; and even as late as 1883, Mr. E. B. + Havell wrote that he had seen pieces woven to meet special orders + which were equal in point of interest and material to the old + specimens in the hands of connoisseurs of London or in native + palaces. This is one of the few districts in Southern India where + the industry exists outside of jails. In the town and surrounding + country are about four hundred looms operated by some three + thousand people, who are Mohammedans.</p> + + <p>In the better class of rugs, in which vegetable dyes are still + used, and the yarn is often a native product of wool obtained + from sheep of the uplands and spun by shepherds, something of the + old style of craftsmanship remains. On the other hand, a very + large percentage of the rugs which are intended solely for export + trade are of an inferior order, since many of their colours are + obtained from aniline, their weaving is inferior, and their + patterns are ordinary. Mr. Henry T. Harris, in his report on the + Madras Industrial and Art Exhibition, 1903, said: “The + exhibits of carpets sent from Ellore were poor in conception, + weave, and colour.... The patterns in use were poor and often + modifications of cheap Wilton, Kidderminster, <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">261</a></span>and + German power loom designs. Some of the old patterns are still + with the weavers, but unfortunately there is no trade demand for + this fine class of goods, the old dyes are being forgotten and + have given place to cheap anilines unskilfully + applied.”</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p59" id="p59"></a><img src="images/plate59.jpg" + width="550" height="824" alt="Plate 59. Afghan Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 59. Afghan + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>In length, the rugs are from a few feet to twenty-four feet. + The warp is of cotton, and the weft is sometimes of jute or hemp. + The pile is of an inferior quality, as it consists largely of the + wool taken from a sheep after death, known as “dead” + wool, or as “Chunam” or “limed” wool, + since it is necessary to treat it with lime. Unfortunately + vegetable dyes do not produce in it the same results as in + “live” wool; and since the scarcity of wool in + Southern India frequently necessitates its use, aniline dyes are + for this reason alone often employed. The number of knots to the + square inch is relatively small. The patterns show great + diversity, as Persian features predominate in the older rugs; but + both geometric and floral designs are employed in the modern.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Vellore</span>.—Almost a + hundred miles to the west of Madras is the town of Vellore, where + native weavers once produced fine woollen carpets on their own + looms. A few specimens of these old pieces are preserved in the + jail to serve as patterns for the convicts, who now weave the + only rugs of the district. There are some fifty looms; and as the + largest is about thirty feet wide, almost any size of rug may be + obtained. The product rests on a commercial basis and depends on + the market demands, restricted by the material available and the + limitations of the weavers. According to the order, the rugs may + be coloured with vegetable or aniline dyes; they may have warp + and weft of cotton, jute or hemp; and they may have from six to + sixteen knots to the inch measured horizontally and + perpendicularly. In the patterns, which are as promiscuous as + those of Ellore and often similar, the Herati design with a + corresponding border is not infrequently used. Recently an effort + has been made to exclude all but vegetable dyes and improve the + craftsmanship.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Bangalore</span>.—The + principal weaving industry in the Mysore state is centred about + Bangalore, a city of about two hundred thousand inhabitants. Its + founder, Hyder Ali, is said to have established looms and to have + imported the first weavers. In 1908, the nine jail looms, of + which the largest had a length of nearly thirty feet, were + constantly occupied in making rugs to order. The number + of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id= + "Page_262">262</a></span> knots to the square inch varied greatly + according to the quality required; and the dyes were almost + entirely aniline. In the city are employed a much larger number + of weavers, who clean and spin the wool produced in the district, + as well as dye it by secret processes, that they guard most + carefully. The closeness of texture; the colouring by aniline or + vegetable dyes; and the use of cotton, jute, or hemp, for warp + and weft, are regulated by the requirements of the trade, which + is conducted largely by two or three English firms.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class= + "smcap">Hyderabad</span>.—Splendid craftsmanship was once + displayed in the rugs made in the cities of Hyderabad and + Warangal, in the district of Hyderabad. The weave was exceedingly + fine, and the colours were brilliant but harmonious. Now few rugs + are produced in these cities, and they have poor patterns and + wretched colours.</p> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id= + "Page_263">263</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER XIV</h3> + + <h4>CHINESE RUGS</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/t.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="T" + title="T" /></span>HE existence of Chinese rugs of age and merit + was almost unknown to the Western world until the close of the + last century, when a few pieces reached Europe, where they + aroused the just admiration of art connoisseurs. About the + beginning of this century a larger number, which were obtained + during the Boxer revolution by reason of the spoliation of homes, + temples, and palaces, that never before had been entered by + foreigners, were exported to this country. In New York City, + between the years 1908 and 1910, some of them were sold at public + auctions for prices that stimulated collectors in China to search + for more. But they have proved to be scarce when compared with + other Oriental rugs, so that, as yet, the general public are only + slightly familiar with them.</p> + + <p>Moreover, little is known about their antecedents, for written + records are exceedingly meagre. It has been suggested that many + were made in Eastern Turkestan along the highways that extend to + Persia and India. But it is more probable that they were woven in + Eastern China, where other branches of art reached a remarkable + development under the patronage of wealthy mandarins and the + imperial court. Even if they are not the product of an indigenous + growth, the knowledge of weaving may easily have been acquired + from Western Asia; since it was not unusual several centuries ago + to import weavers from one country to another to instruct native + craftsmen. Furthermore, the features which at a glance + differentiate these rugs from all others, proclaim their Chinese + character. The diaper patterns that cover the fields of some of + them, and the foliate and floral forms that appear in most of + them, not only are unlike those of any other groups, but have + well-known Chinese elements. A more distinctive feature are the + colours, which are relatively few. Many of them, as tan, yellow, + and blue, are of shades<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" + id="Page_264">264</a></span> unlike what are seen in other rugs. + Even more distinctive than these are the reds, which never have + the primary colours found in other groups but resemble the tints + of ripe apricot, peach, pomegranate, and persimmon. Similar tones + are seen in old Chinese porcelain. The geometric and floral + ornamentation also shows relationship to what is found in the + products of other branches of Chinese art. More characteristic + still are the small designs which are so related to the + philosophic and religious thought of the people and to the + industrial and social life that their Chinese origin is + unmistakable.</p> + + <p>Though it be granted that nearly all were woven in Eastern + China, it is not possible satisfactorily to assign them to + different classes based on locality; yet without doubt important + distinctions, observable also in the early paintings and + porcelains and resulting largely from differences of race and + character of country, exist between those woven in Northern + China, where the highest appreciation of art existed, and those + woven in Southern China. It is probable, however, that such + marked local distinctions as are found in other groups never + existed in Chinese rugs. Such distinctions as do exist relate + more to stages in development of the textile art, so that the + natural classification is based on the successive periods when + they were woven.</p> + + <p>The absence of written and traditional history regarding the + weaving of these periods is by no means an insuperable obstacle + to such classification. By a careful examination of large numbers + of rugs, it is possible to arrange them with reasonable accuracy + in series that represent progressive forms of ornamentation and + design from the archaic to the modern. A most important aid to + this arrangement is the interdependence so conspicuous in the + several arts of China; for designs of innumerable articles with + well-established ages, especially of the ceramic art, have been + copied by the weavers.</p> + + <p>Technical peculiarities in weaving are also an aid in + determining the period to which rugs belong. An important + distinction, for instance, often exists in the manner in which + the material is spun. If pieces of yarn be taken from old rugs + and carefully examined, as they are untwisted, the simpler, + cruder methods of spinning practised in former days are often + apparent. In some of the oldest fabrics that remain the wool was + very loosely spun. Irregularities in the size of yarn are also + more noticeable in old than in modern pieces.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p60" id="p60"></a><img src="images/plate60.jpg" + width="500" height="861" alt="Plate 60. Beluchistan Prayer Rug" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 60. Beluchistan + Prayer Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>More important often in determining the relative age of a rug + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id= + "Page_265">265</a></span>than either design or technical + peculiarities of weaving, is the shade of colour; for however + excellent were the original dyes and whatever care was exercised + in their application, they slowly changed under the mellowing + influence of time to tones that are obtained by no human process. + Furthermore, as is the case with porcelains, certain colours were + peculiar to certain periods. For instance, golden browns are seen + mostly in pieces woven before the middle of the XVIII Century, + and azure blue in pieces woven before the XIX Century. Yellow + with a lemon or citron cast is found principally in pieces woven + since the beginning of the XVIII Century; and green is rarely + found in pieces woven before the middle of the XVIII Century. + Aniline dyes were not introduced into China much before the year + 1870. The time when a rug was woven may safely be regarded as not + more remote than the period when the ornamentation and designs it + contains were generally adopted; yet it may be much more recent, + as the oldest designs were copied even after the adoption of + newer ones. It is necessary, then, in determining the age of a + rug to consider not only the evidence of the spinning, the + weaving and designs, but also the evidence of colour.</p> + + <p>Though Chinese rugs have features that distinguish them from + other groups and divide them into separate classes; they also + have many features in common. All are woven with the Sehna knot. + In all but the earliest rugs the warp and weft are of cotton; + each thread of warp is equally prominent at the back; and the + weft, which is coarser than the warp, crosses twice between two + rows of knots. The nap of both old and modern rugs is almost + always wool or silk, and rarely, if ever, jute or cotton. The + sides are finished by carrying the weft around the outer threads + of warp, but never so as to form a wide selvage. The lower end, + as a rule, has a very narrow web and warp loops; and the upper + end has a narrow web and fringe. Compared with other groups they + are generally more loosely woven. These and other features of + resemblance and of distinction will be more fully noticed in + considering the rugs of different periods.</p> + + <p>In rugs of this group are constantly seen symbols intimately + associated with the religious and philosophic thought of China. + One of them is the Sacred Mountain rising out of the waves of + eternity, which is an old Chinese emblem, though more frequently + found in rugs of Samarkand and Yarkand. Others are the cloud-band + and the Joo-e. There are also mythical creatures, as the dragon, + emblem of imperial power; the Ky-lin, partly deer, partly + unicorn;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id= + "Page_266">266</a></span> the Fung-Kwang or phœnix; and the + lion-dog. Still other symbolic and decorative designs are the + figure Shou and the stork, emblems of longevity; the bat and + butterfly, denoting happiness; the conch, wheel of law, and the + two fishes, which are Buddhist emblems; and the lyre and chess + board, which are symbols of the literati.</p> + + <p>It is not improbable that rugs were woven during the Sung + dynasty (960-1280 <span class="smcap">a. d.</span>), when for + nearly three centuries prosperity prevailed, literature and art + flourished, and the court at Hang Chow was maintained with + imperial splendour; but as far as is known, none of them exist. + Nor do any remain that may have been woven during the Yuan + dynasty (1280-1370) distinguished by the reign of the illustrious + Mongol prince, Kublai Khan; though designs appearing in later + rugs were used in kindred arts of these and preceding + periods.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Ming Rugs.</span>—The + oldest Chinese rugs that remain were probably woven near the end + of the Ming period, or during the first half of the XVII Century. + It may reasonably be assumed that they were superior in quality + to those of any former period, since during this time Persia and + India were producing their greatest woven masterpieces; and other + branches of Chinese art were marked by an advance over the work + that had preceded. Yet, on the whole, it was a period of ebb in + the splendid accomplishments of intellectual and artistic effort + that marked the Tang and Sung dynasties.</p> + + <p>Such pieces as exist are distinguished by careful workmanship, + archaic designs, and sobriety of colour. Most of the rugs were + woven with warp and weft of cotton. Some, intended principally + for wealthy mandarins or the imperial court, had pile of silk + attached to warp and weft of cotton; and others were made + entirely of silk. Fewer in number, but constituting the most + sumptuous products of the Chinese weavers’ art, were the + rugs of silk woven on a web of metal threads.</p> + + <p>The field of many of these early rugs contained all-over + patterns. Sometimes the repeat designs are of octagonal shape and + are arranged in horizontal and perpendicular lines, so as to + leave small diamond-shaped spaces between diagonally placed + octagons. Within these designs are often the emblems of happiness + or longevity, floral motives, and sometimes archaic dragons. In + another well-known pattern the field is completely covered with a + swastika-fret and marked at regular intervals with diagonal rows + of bats, emblematic of happiness.<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_267" id="Page_267">267</a></span> Occasionally a field of + plain colour contains an irregular arrangement of objects used + for sacrificial or sacred purposes. Again, it may be covered with + an all-over pattern of small archaically drawn dragons resembling + some of the earliest designs in Chinese decorative art, or of + most conventionalised floral forms on mechanically drawn + stems.</p> + + <p>The essential feature, however, of a large number of these + rugs, and one that probably antedates the all-over pattern, is a + central medallion surrounded by a field that is either plain, + that is marked with a subdued diaper pattern, or contains what is + known as the “tiger skin” pattern, consisting of + waving lines repeated throughout the field. The medallions may be + either octagonal or, as is more frequently the case, rounded; but + the defining lines are angular and generally represent frets. + Sometimes they contain archaic dragons, which are so + conventionalised in a few pieces that it is apparent that from + them originated many of the Chinese scrolls. In other pieces, the + shape of the central medallions and the designs which cover them + suggest most forcibly that they were copied from old mirror + backs. The corners of the fields may contain simple scrolls, but + more frequently they correspond closely in drawing with the + central medallions.</p> + + <p>The borders are equally typical. They are invariably narrow, + and generally consist of a single stripe which is figured and + surrounded with a coloured edging. Probably over three quarters + of the rugs of this period have a stripe with a pattern of + swastika-frets. Two of these stripes, which are very old + patterns, are illustrated in Plate <a href="#pn">N</a>, Figs. 1 + and 2 (opp. Page 274). Occasionally some form of the key pattern + appears in the inner stripe, but almost all Chinese rugs that + have two border stripes with figures belong to a later period. + Many of the oldest borders are without figured stripes, and + consist merely of one or more stripes of plain colour.</p> + + <p>The few colours used in the rugs of this period have deep, + rich tones. Undyed dark brown or blackish wool was occasionally + used in the outer edging that surrounded the field or in the + narrow border stripes; but more frequently the same colour effect + was obtained by the use of corrosive dyes that in time have often + eaten the wool almost to the foundation of warp and weft. Wools + dyed with corrosive browns are also used in the fields and + enhance the effect of designs of contrasting colours, which stand + out in bold relief. Other colours, as soft dull yellow and shades + of blue, are also seen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" + id="Page_268">268</a></span> in the borders. The field is usually + richer. In some pieces it is a deep red; in others it is a soft + yellow, golden brown or yellowish tan, that shows the effect of + time on what were originally several shades of apricot. Dark and + light blues, sky blue, and robin’s egg blue, as well as + jade green and bottle green, are also found in these old pieces. + In the metal and silk rugs the glint of silver even though + tarnished, adds lustre to colours that have grown deeper and + richer with age.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Kang-hi.</span>—During + the first years of the Tsing dynasty, that continued from 1644 to + its recent overthrow, the country was so occupied by wars waged + between the conquering Manchoos and the still resisting followers + of the Ming dynasty that art was nearly at a standstill. But + during the reign of the illustrious Kang-hi, 1662-1722, art + revived and enjoyed one of the most splendid periods of its + history. There is, however, a noticeable difference between the + rugs that belong to the early and to the late part of this reign; + so that it is convenient to divide them into the early Kang-hi + pieces, that were woven during the last part of the XVII Century, + and the late Kang-hi pieces, almost all of which were woven at + the beginning of the XVIII Century. This division is also + convenient; as many rugs cannot be definitely assigned to the + reign of a particular emperor, and, accordingly, the broader + distinction of assigning them to different centuries is + frequently adopted.</p> + + <p>In weaving, as in making porcelain, many of the products of + the late Ming were still copied during the early Kang-hi period, + but there was a freer use of colour and a more decorative + ornamentation. Many of the figures are still geometric. Frets are + conspicuous in the fields of large numbers of these pieces. The + dragon also is a favourite motive; but in the scrolls that + represent the legs and bifurcated tail, and in the + conventionalised head, the resemblance to the mythical monster is + almost lost. Sometimes two or more of these constitute a + medallion in the centre of the field, in which others are grouped + with regularity; while similar forms occupy the corners. Some of + the rugs in which the fields are covered with sundry objects, as + scrolls, vases, altar pieces, and sacred plants, also belong to + this period. The borders of these and late Kang-hi pieces have + frequently an outer edging of brown and a single border stripe + with swastika-fret. In a few pieces, the stripe has a + well-balanced scroll which has been developed from designs of + conventionalised dragons and frets <span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_269" id="Page_269">269</a></span>that appear in the central + medallion and in the corners of the field. Occasionally, however, + there is an inner stripe with the key meander. The colour scheme + of the late Ming, including the golden browns and deep blues, is + largely employed in rugs of this period.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p61" id="p61"></a><img src="images/plate61.jpg" + width="550" height="744" alt="Plate 61. Turkoman Saddle-bags" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 61. Turkoman + Saddle-bags</span></p> + </div> + + <p>The same influences that resulted during the late Kang-hi + period in the remarkable development of decorative art as applied + to porcelains, produced a corresponding effect in the rugs woven + at the same time. Manchurian ideas and taste gave renewed spirit + to earlier Chinese style. The fields were not infrequently + covered with sub-patterns of fret work, on which medallions + appeared more prominently. The geometric figures were largely + supplanted by foliate forms. Even when the central medallions and + corner figures are of frets or stiffly conventionalised dragons, + the fields are often covered with delicate scroll or foliate + sub-patterns that support floral forms resembling the lotus or + the peony. The drawing of some of these has a Western character, + and there is little doubt that at this time the art of Persia had + a strong influence on the weaving of China. In other pieces of + this class, the foliate and floral forms no longer appear as + sub-patterns but become the prominent feature in the decoration + of the field; and the conventionalised flowers are arranged with + precision in diagonal or perpendicular lines. To this period also + belong rugs of a distinct type, in which the field represents a + blending of pictorial and symbolic ideas, as, for instance, a + homeward flight of swallows; or a grove where butterflies flit + among the leaves, and deer with sacred fungus, emblematic of + longevity, wander.</p> + + <p>The employment of border stripes of uniform colour was still + continued, but there was a tendency to employ more elaborate + designs in many of the figured stripes. It is not unusual to see + single or double vines with conventionalised flowers; and though + the drawing is mechanical, the relationship to Persian art is + apparent. Yet in most of these pieces the swastika-fret is used. + A noticeable difference also exists in the colour scheme of many + of the late Kang-hi rugs, which frequently display brighter + colours. Much of the yellow, for instance, contains more red, + giving it a golden hue known as the “imperial + yellow.”</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Yung-ching.</span>—During + the short reign of Yung-ching (1722-1736), though many of the old + patterns were followed, the tendency to adopt more ornate forms + begun during the first part of the XVIII Century continued. + Manchurian ideas were now a strong factor<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">270</a></span> in + Chinese art, so that the use of colours and ornamentation + followed broader lines. To this period are assigned most of those + rugs in which designs are defined by lines of contrasting colour + that has been so treated that the lines are depressed and throw + the designs into bold relief. It is very difficult, however, to + definitely determine that any particular rug belongs to this + period; since the transition in colour scheme and patterns was + gradual; and the effect of time on dyes, one of the most reliable + factors in determining age, depends somewhat on their exposure to + the elements and to use. But broadly speaking, figures of leaf + and flower were more frequently adopted than in preceding periods + and designs became less conventionalised and more artistic. Lemon + and citron shades of yellow, also, became more prominent during + this period.</p> + + <p class="tb"><span class="smcap">Keen-lung.</span>—The + long reign of Keen-lung, lasting from 1736 to 1795, was one of + the most prolific for Chinese art. To this period may safely be + assigned most of the existing rugs made before the XIX Century, + as well as many of the finest porcelains. The rugs partake of a + more cosmopolitan character than those which had preceded; for + not only are many of the designs and colours strictly Chinese, + but others are of a Persian character, and others still suggest + Mohammedan influences observable in the products of Turkestan and + India. Moreover, many of the designs show a delicate shading that + is not observable in the rugs made during the early part of the + century. As a whole they are the most ornate of Chinese rugs. + Woven after the inspiration of Persian masterpieces had left its + strongest impress on Chinese weavers, and decoration in kindred + arts had assumed a luxurious style, they represent in the drawing + of leaf and flower, of birds, butterflies, and emblems of early + philosophy and faith, and in the colours that blend with rare + harmony, the most elaborate and voluptuous expression of native + craftsmanship.</p> + + <p>In the best examples the geometric, and many of the stiff + conventional forms which continued through the XVII and the early + part of the XVIII Century, disappeared. In their place was a + greater refinement of design, a greater accuracy of drawing, + which found expression in floral forms that reached their highest + development at this time and became characteristic of it. + Occasionally they are represented in profile as is usually the + practice in Western Asia, but more often are represented as + viewed from above. Some of them, <span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_271" id="Page_271">271</a></span>as chrysanthemums, + peonies, sunflowers, and orchids, are most dainty and + naturalistic. The fields of many of these pieces are covered with + such flowers carefully arranged in harmonious groupings of leaf, + bud and flower, but never with the formal and exact balance of + old Persian carpets. Not infrequently mingled with them in the + same piece are more conventional designs that belong to an + earlier period; sometimes there is a single central medallion; + and occasionally there are a large number of them. As a rule + these medallions are entirely floral, and in rugs made during the + latter part of this period they display elaborate ornamentation + that distinguishes them from earlier ones; but now and then they + contain fabulous creatures, as the lion-dogs, by which in a few + instances they are entirely replaced.</p> + + <h4><i>COLOUR PLATE X—CHINESE RUG</i></h4> + + <p><i>Perfect technique of weaving, accuracy of drawing, and + subdued rich colouring are the characteristics of this unusual + piece. The knots of the fine woollen yarn are tied with a + precision not frequently seen in Chinese rugs, and the shortness + of nap discloses the faithfulness with which an artist of no + ordinary ability has represented plants and flowers. Their soft + tones stand out in relief against a background now darkened and + enriched by the mellowing influence of time. Moreover, the + motives of the upper and the lower half of the field, even to the + minutest detail, show an exact balance. Many old Chinese rugs are + of uncertain age, but this piece has been attributed, not without + reason, to the Kang-hi period.</i></p> + + <p class="name"><i>Loaned by Mr. Nathan Bentz</i></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> + <a name="px" id="px"></a><img src="images/plate_x.jpg" width= + "250" height="844" alt="COLOUR PLATE X--CHINESE RUG" + title="" /> + </div> + + <p>There are also many other well-known types of Keen-lung rugs. + Surrounding the central medallion of some pieces are grouped the + Taoist symbols; emblems of the literati, as chess boards, + scrolls, and the lyre; as well as tripods, flower vases, fans of + state, fruits of abundance, emblems of honours, and symbols of + longevity and happiness. To this class also belong many of the + pieces which have neither medallions nor corner pieces, but have + fields completely covered with a pattern of continuous foliate + stems and conventional flowers, repeated with exact precision of + drawing. Likewise, in a few pieces the field is completely + covered with an all-over pattern of small hexagonal or other + geometric figures containing a conventionalised flower, strongly + suggesting Turkoman influences. Some of the “Grain of + Rice” rugs, also, were woven during this period.</p> + + <p>The borders are as distinctive as the fields. Only in a few + pieces is the swastika meander seen, but in its place is often + the T pattern. The key patterns represented in Plate <a href= + "#pn">N</a>, Figs. 7 and 8 (opp. Page 274), as well as the dotted + line (Fig. 22), are also largely employed. Almost all of these + rugs have two ornamented stripes, and occasionally three, to + which is added an outer margin of plain colour. In a few pieces + both stripes are geometric; but generally one is floral and one + geometric, in which case the wider, that, with very few + exceptions, is the floral, is the inner one. Very rarely the + border contains two floral stripes; and now and then Buddhist + emblems and other devices are introduced.</p> + + <p>The breadth of artistic conception expressed in designs is + accompanied by a wider scope of colour, in the use of which these + rugs may conveniently be grouped in three subclasses. The first + is the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id= + "Page_272">272</a></span> Blue and White, with ground of ivory or + ashy white and designs that have shades of light or dark blue. + The second comprises those in which the ground is some shade of + yellow. Sometimes it has a tinge of lemon, orange, or apricot. + Again it is what is known as dull, golden, mandarin, or imperial + yellow. The overlying designs may contain a different shade of + yellow from that of the field, an ivory white, a blue, or a red. + The third subclass comprises those in which the ground colour is + some shade of red; such as persimmon, terra cotta, crushed + strawberry, apricot red, or a deep salmon pink, which is rare. + The overlying designs may be a shade of blue, ivory white, + yellow, gray, and even green. Colours of both field and border + are sometimes the same but are more frequently complementary. As + a whole, the elaborate designs, delicate shading, and rich + colours rank these rugs among the most beautiful products of the + Chinese loom.</p> + + <p>The rugs woven during the reigns of Kea-king (1796-1820) and + Tao-Kwang (1821-1850), extending to the middle of last century, + repeat with slight modification the patterns of the preceding + period, though there is a tendency to use larger and coarser + designs. The colours, too, are similar, yet they lack the deep + richness that is matured only with the lapse of great time. Many + of these rugs, as well as some woven still later, before the + introduction of aniline dyes and factory processes, are + beautiful; but as a rule the modern pieces lack the refinement of + technique observable only in those produced before the beginning + of the XIX Century.</p> + + <h4>MEDALLIONS</h4> + + <p>The study of medallions which occur in fields of Chinese rugs + is not only interesting but is an important aid in determining + their age; yet it should be remembered that approved patterns + were often repeated even after the introduction of more elaborate + styles. Many of the oldest medallions were copied from bronzes or + mirror backs, and their drawing is geometric except as + embellished by some conventionalised figures of the dragon. By a + process of evolution these figures, in turn, were converted into + scrolls, which in time were replaced by elaborate leaf and flower + patterns.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pm">M</a>, Fig. 1 (opp. Page 272), is a + “Shou” design of octagonal shape, copied from an old + rug which was probably woven during the early part of the XVII + Century.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pm" id="pm"></a><img src="images/platem.jpg" width= + "550" height="835" alt="Plate M. Medallions in Chinese Rugs" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate M. Medallions in + Chinese Rugs</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id= + "Page_273">273</a></span></p> + + <p>Figs. 2, 3 and 4 of Plate <a href="#pm">M</a>, represent + fret-covered medallions, which also are found in rugs of the same + period. The first is probably the oldest pattern; and the last, + to judge by the panel surrounding it, was apparently copied from + a bronze mirror back.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pm">M</a>, Fig. 5, is a copy of a medallion + similar to the one shown in Plate <a href="#pm">M</a>, Fig. 2, + but with the dragons replaced by frets.</p> + + <p>A medallion of greater interest is illustrated in Plate + <a href="#pm">M</a>, Fig. 6. It shows the evolution of scrolls + from dragons, of which the heads alone betray their origin. Such + medallions are found mostly in the earliest rugs.</p> + + <p>By comparing Fig. 7 of Plate <a href="#pm">M</a> with the + preceding, it is apparent that its scrolls had a similar origin, + but in this one the dragon heads have entirely disappeared. The + design is characteristic of the early Kang-hi rugs.</p> + + <p>In Plate <a href="#pm">M</a>, Fig. 8, is represented a + medallion that closely resembles some of the earliest period; but + the more accurate drawing and clearer definition of lines shows + that it is a later copy. It is found in late Kang-hi pieces.</p> + + <p>To this period, also, belongs the geometric pattern with + swastikas represented in Plate <a href="#pm">M</a>, Fig. 9.</p> + + <p>Another medallion with frets and dragon heads is shown in + Plate M, Fig. 10. The particular rug from which it was copied was + probably woven about the Yung-ching period; but there is little + doubt that similar medallions appeared in older rugs.</p> + + <p>In Figs. 11 and 12 of Plate <a href="#pm">M</a>, are + represented two medallions with foliate designs that were largely + employed in the early Keen-lung period. A comparison of the first + with Fig. 13 of Plate <a href="#pm">M</a>, shows an interesting + step in the evolution of the Chinese drawing.</p> + + <p>A very different medallion pattern of the same age is shown in + Plate <a href="#pm">M</a>, Fig. 14, in which an encircling border + consists of cloud-bands.</p> + + <p>Also during the Keen-lung time first appeared medallions with + accurately drawn flower designs. One of this period is shown in + Plate <a href="#pm">M</a>, Fig. 15. Wreath-like borders, such as + are seen in this and the preceding one, are found in XVIII and + XIX Century pieces.</p> + + <h4>CHINESE BORDER STRIPES</h4> + + <p>The knowledge that certain border stripes antedate others in + definite sequence of time, is another aid in determining the age + of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id= + "Page_274">274</a></span> Chinese rugs. As was seen to be the + case with medallions, the earliest stripes were purely geometric. + In others, still very old, appeared forms of conventionalised + dragons, which again were replaced by simple scrolls and these by + ornate floral forms. But it should be remembered that earlier + designs were often copied in later rugs, so that the evidence of + age is merely contributory.</p> + + <p>Stripes containing the swastika meander were used almost + exclusively in the oldest rugs. Figs. 1, 2, and 3 of Plate + <a href="#pn">N</a> (opp. Page 274), represent three old forms, + which rarely appear in any pieces woven since the Kang-hi time. + The pattern of Plate <a href="#pn">N</a>, Fig. 4, in which + alternate swastikas are reversed, is also very old.</p> + + <p>The usual drawing of the swastika stripe is shown in Plate + <a href="#pn">N</a>, Fig. 5. It is found largely in Kang-hi rugs, + and if used in more recent fabrics, is often accompanied by a + stripe with some other pattern. As illustrated here, the facing + of the swastika is reversed in the middle of the stripe.</p> + + <p>The shading of Plate <a href="#pn">N</a>, Fig. 6, which is + somewhat similar to Plate <a href="#pn">N</a>, Fig. 4, is + characteristic of the Keen-lung and subsequent periods.</p> + + <p>In Figs. 7, 8, 9, and 10, of Plate <a href="#pn">N</a>, are + Key and T patterns, which are found in rugs of the Kang-hi and + subsequent periods, but rarely in earlier pieces. When employed + in rugs woven later than the middle of the XVIII Century they are + often shaded. These meander and key-patterns are of great + antiquity; and though the drawing is exceedingly simple, it is + supposed that the figures from which they were derived once + symbolised clouds and thunder.</p> + + <p>A very interesting stripe derived from dragons is illustrated + in Plate <a href="#pn">N</a>, Fig. 11. The rectangular frets + represent bodies of which conventionalised heads alone betray + their origin. The graceful scroll in the middle was also probably + derived from dragon forms. This stripe is seen in old Kang-hi + rugs.</p> + + <p>The rectangular frets and floral forms are combined in an + unusual stripe (Plate <a href="#pn">N</a>, Fig. 12) that appeared + in rugs which were probably woven about the Yung-ching period. It + shows the influence of older traditions on which are ingrafted + the later inspiration.</p> + + <p>Still more interesting is a stripe (Plate <a href="#pn">N</a>, + Fig. 13) seen in what are known as Buddhist rugs of the Keen-lung + period. In different parts of the border appear the Buddhist + emblems, the Joo-e, conch, wheel of law, and knot of destiny, + separated by cloud-bands and foliate and floral motives.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="pn" id="pn"></a><img src="images/platen.jpg" width= + "550" height="791" alt= + "Plate N. Primary and Secondary Border-Stripes of Chinese Rugs" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate N. Primary and + Secondary Border-Stripes of Chinese Rugs</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id= + "Page_275">275</a></span></p> + + <p>The tendency to use more ornate forms in the Keen-lung and + later rugs is shown in Plate <a href="#pn">N</a>, Figs. 14, 15, + and 16, which illustrate three stripes that with slight + modifications are found in large numbers of Chinese rugs of the + last half of the XVIII and the XIX Centuries.</p> + + <p>The stripe illustrated in Plate <a href="#pn">N</a>, Fig. 17, + on which are represented halves of octagonal discs containing + conventional flower forms, is found in some rugs woven as early + as the first part of the XVIII Century, as well as in more + subsequent pieces. The central fields of some rugs in which it is + found have geometric Ming patterns, and others have floral + conceits that suggest Persian influences.</p> + + <p>In Figs. 18, 19, 20, and 21, of Plate <a href="#pn">N</a>, are + represented simple stripes found in XVIII Century rugs. The last + of these, which is found in Keen-lung porcelain, shows a marked + resemblance to the reciprocal trefoil so common in Persian + pieces.</p> + + <p>The simple dotted stripe (Plate <a href="#pn">N</a>, Fig. 22) + was rarely employed before the middle of the XVIII Century, but + has been constantly used since then.</p> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id= + "Page_276">276</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER XV</h3> + + <h4>KILIMS</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/k.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="K" + title="K" /></span>ILIMS have a special interest apart from their + beauty and utility, as some of them undoubtedly resemble the + early fabrics of the Egyptians and Babylonians from which were + evolved the more durable pile carpets. The different links in + this evolution can only be conjectured. Yet it is not unlikely + that such pieces as the nomadic kilims, which occasionally have + little tufts of wool attached for ornament or loose threads of + weft hanging from one side, first suggested the greater + durability and warmth that would be derived from a woven fabric + completely covered with tufts of yarn.</p> + + <p>It is also certain that the most delicately woven kilims have + likewise been evolved from cruder forms. In fact, the different + steps in this evolution correspond to three separate styles of + weaving still in vogue. The earliest products which were made + subsequent to the primitive weaving of uncoloured warp and weft + were doubtless similar to the simple fabrics now used to line the + under side of saddle bags, and consisted of a warp and weft of + uniformly coloured threads. A much more advanced style, induced + by a desire for ornamentation, was the representation of patterns + which required the use of different coloured threads of weft. As + these threads were never carried beyond the edges of each + pattern, their loose ends were at first allowed to hang at the + back, giving an appearance somewhat similar to what is seen in + Soumaks. The third and most finished style, representing much + higher workmanship, was produced by deftly disposing of the ends + of threads of weft so that they should be concealed and thus + permit each surface of the kilim to be exactly the same.</p> + + <p>Each of these kinds of weaving is constantly seen in the East. + The first not only is used as a lining for saddle bags, but is + frequently substituted for them. It is also sometimes used as the + only floor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id= + "Page_277">277</a></span> covering, or again is laid as a + protection beneath valuable carpets. It often replaces the + heavier felt for tents, and indeed is utilised for all purposes + requiring a strong material like canvas. The second is found + among nomadic weavers, especially those of Asia Minor; who + naturally waste no unnecessary labour in weaving kilims with a + delicate finish, which would be quickly marred by the rough usage + that they receive. The third, which is the more elegant product, + is invariably not only of excellent finish but of carefully drawn + patterns. In this country, the last two are used principally for + portieres and couch coverings; but in the Orient they still + serve, as they have from the remotest times, for floor coverings; + and because of the custom of removing the shoes when entering a + house, last for a great many years.</p> + + <p>Though these three styles represent the principal variations + in kilim weaving, there are a few pieces with embroidered + pattern; and embroidered stitches are sometimes added to + represent some simple design, or as is frequently the case in + Shirvans, to make more prominent the separate horizontal + compartments.</p> + + <p>When weaving a kilim, the threads of warp are strung as in + piled rugs, and number from six to eighteen to the inch according + to the texture. There are generally about twenty threads of weft + to the inch, measured at the front or back; but in pieces of the + finest workmanship, there may be as many as fifty, and in the + crudest only eight or nine. At the sides of the kilim, the + threads of weft encircle the last thread of warp as at the sides + of any pattern; but at the ends, the threads of warp are braided + about a heavier added cord, or else are tied in knots, from which + their loose ends are permitted to hang like tassels.</p> + + <p>The patterns are usually geometric; and even when an attempt + is made to copy floral figures, the drawing inclines to the + rectilinear. If a straight line representing the side of a figure + is horizontal, or in the direction of the weft, it will often be + several inches in length; but a straight perpendicular line never + exceeds an inch in length. This is because the threads of weft + are never carried from one pattern to another or to the adjoining + field, but are turned back at its defining edges, so that an + opening is left, which would impair the strength of the fabric if + it were of much length. Accordingly, if it is desired to + represent a pattern with perpendicular sides, it is necessary + that the edges be slightly uneven. But here necessity is turned + to advantage, as this unevenness or fringing softens + lines<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id= + "Page_278">278</a></span> that otherwise would be harsh. Defining + the outlines of many figures is yarn of different colours, which + either may be woven like other threads of weft, or when it serves + the purpose of closing the space between adjacent threads of + warp, may be attached by stitches. Borders find slight favour + with kilim weavers, and in most pieces they are entirely wanting + or only present at one end. Even when they completely surround + the field, there is generally some difference in design or colour + between the stripes of side and end. Prayer arches are found in + some of the kilims, but their outlines rarely correspond closely + with those of piled rugs.</p> + + <p>The colours, by which alone the patterns are distinguished, + are largely responsible for the character of the kilim. Threads + of weft of every hue that is seen in piled rugs are employed in + these pieces; yet the colouring never appears the same, since + there are lacking the lustre and deep wealth of tones due to the + length of pile, in which appears an almost imperceptible + gradation from the ends that are exposed to the light and have + incurred the mellowing influence of the elements to the part + which retains more of the original colours and seems darker, + because it is more concealed. Indeed, on account of the lack of + pile, the colours and patterns would seem harsh were it not for + the irregularities of perpendicular and diagonal lines, the + devices of latch-hooks, and other peculiarities that convey to + the eye an impression of blending. Moreover when the designs are + large, the effect of the colour is always severe; but when the + field is covered with innumerable small figures, it is greatly + softened.</p> + + <p>As kilims are much less durable than rugs that have a pile to + protect the warp and weft, it is not surprising that few of great + age remain. The oldest piece of which we have any knowledge is a + fragment obtained by Dr. M. A. Stein, the archæological + explorer, from the ruins near Khotan, in Eastern Turkestan, of an + ancient settlement, which was buried by sand drifts about the + fourth or fifth century <i>anno domini</i>. The weave is almost + identical with that of modern kilims, and has about fourteen + threads of warp and sixteen threads of weft to the inch. The + pattern consists of narrow stripes of blue, green, brownish + yellow, and red, containing very small geometric designs. With + this one exception, so peculiarly preserved, there are probably + very few over a century old.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p62" id="p62"></a><img src="images/plate62.jpg" + width="500" height="853" alt="Plate 62. Srinagar Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 62. Srinagar + Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p>Though kilims are now made in most of the districts where + piled carpets are woven, very few classes are recognised. This + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id= + "Page_279">279</a></span>is because it is difficult to + distinguish between most of them, and such differences as exist + are with few exceptions unimportant. The best known classes are + the Sehna, Shirvan, Karaman, Kurdish, Turkish, and Merv.</p> + + <p>The Sehna kilims are usually of small size, and rarely exceed + a breadth of four and a half feet and a length of seven. They are + far superior to all others in the delicacy of colour, daintiness + of design, quality of material, and character of workmanship. + Their patterns, including border, are identical with those of the + piled rugs; and the colours, to which at a short distance the + small figures of the Herati design give the effect of blending, + are the same. As is not the case with other kilims, the warp is + of cotton or linen and there are generally from fourteen to + sixteen threads to the inch. The weft is of wool, and to an inch + there are often nearly fifty threads encircling a thread of warp + as they cross and recross. The old pieces, like the rugs of which + they are true copies, are rapidly becoming scarce. They resemble + tapestries and are unfit for hard usage.</p> + + <p>A large percentage of the kilims now sold in this country are + Shirvans. Their fields are divided into a number of parallel + horizontal compartments or bands a foot or more in width + separated by narrower bands. Not infrequently the principal + figures of the wide bands are hexagons surrounding smaller + geometric figures; and through the more narrow bands runs a + waving line or a parti-coloured cord. Another peculiarity, + occasionally seen, are the ray-like projections of uniform colour + fringing the edges of the sides. As a rule, there are no borders, + but at each end are two or more narrow bands that give the effect + of a border. In some pieces webs of plain colour extend beyond + the bands; and the ends are fringed with loose threads of warp. + The colours are always pronounced, because of lack of shading, + and consist mostly of red, blue, and ivory. Yellow and green are + also used. These kilims are much heavier than the Sehnas, and + also larger, as the average size is about five by nine feet; and + some are even seven by twelve feet.</p> + + <p>From the district of Karaman in Southern Asia Minor, such a + large number of kilims were formerly imported into Europe that + the general name of Karamani was applied to all kilims. They are + still made there by many of the tribes of Turkish or Turkoman + origin, who wander over the Taurus mountains, and like all their + fabrics are stoutly woven. Their average size is about four and a + half by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id= + "Page_280">280</a></span> eight feet. In colours and patterns, + they resemble many of the Kurdish kilims from the districts + farther to the east.</p> + + <p>A distinction similar to what exists in the piled rugs of the + Kurds, and dependent on the district in which they are made, is + observable in their kilims, as those which come from the Persian + border have carefully drawn designs, that are generally lacking + in others woven in the mountainous watershed of the Tigris and + the Euphrates. Many of these are coarsely woven, and from the + back hang the loose ends of threads of weft, that in more + artistic pieces, are removed. Moreover, in modern pieces the + colours are often crude or even garish. Some of the kilims have + large diamond-shaped figures containing small designs; others + have horizontal bands in which are woven embroidered devices + suggestive of the so-called Bagdad portieres; in many are wide + spaces without designs; but whatever the pattern, there is + usually a parti-coloured cord running through the web at the + end.</p> + + <p>In many parts of Asia Minor are made kilims that are usually + classed as Turkish. They are of large size, and since they are + used mostly for portieres or curtains, are divided + perpendicularly into equal halves, that at times are united by + stitches. The tribes that make them also make large numbers of + smaller prayer kilims with pointed arches suggesting the Ghiordes + design. Some of them are beautifully woven, yet the finest + workmanship is shown in pieces known as “Kis-kilims” + or girl’s kilims. These are made with the utmost care, + since they are intended as a bride’s gift to her husband; + and a sentiment of romance, and the hope that her skill may weigh + favourably in the estimation of her accomplishments, contribute + to influence the weaver. Sometimes even a lock of hair is added + as a charm, or coloured beads as a talisman.</p> + + <p>The Christians who live permanently about Oushak, and are, + accordingly, not under the necessity of making such small pieces + as can conveniently be carried by wandering tribes, weave some of + the largest kilims. Most of them are at least six feet in width + and many are much wider.</p> + + <p>The best known kilims from the Central Asiatic group are known + as “Merv Kilims,” since they are woven by Turkoman + tribes who inhabit the desert near the old capital of Merv. The + brilliant colours found in the products of more Western tribes + are entirely wanting, and in their place are the few subdued, + rich tones so characteristic of all Turkoman weavings. These + pieces are stoutly woven, and<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_281" id="Page_281">281</a></span> since the pattern is + represented by diagonal lines, there is no open work. The designs + are largely of diamond-shape, and are arranged in parallel + horizontal lines on a field that is usually surrounded by a + border profusely ornamented with carefully drawn latch-hooks. A + heavy embroidered selvage, from which hang loose threads of warp, + often occurs at the ends. These kilims are noted for their + durability, and are usually of large size.</p> + + <p>In the city of Dera Ghazi Khan, four miles from the Indus + river, are woven kilims in which warp and weft are of wool, as is + not the case with almost all the rugs of India. They are made by + the women in their own homes and display an individuality which + also is rare in Indian textile fabrics. In a monograph on + “Carpet Weaving in the Punjab,” Mr. C. Latimer says: + “The Dera Ghazi Khan rug, which belongs really to the kind + of fabrics known as kilims, is woven in stripes, with designs + between them, and it is interesting to notice that the patterns + employed were by local tradition originally copied from the robes + of the Pharaohs of Egypt.”</p> + + <p>Though all such Oriental weavings lack the precision of + drawing and the delicacy of minutely varied colour so frequently + found in piled rugs; though they never display high, artistic + perception or poetic instinct, nevertheless some of the oldest + pieces with designs suggestive of the workings of a primitive + imagination untrammelled by the conventions of art, and with a + chaste simplicity of colour that lends an atmosphere of dignity, + possess a subtle charm that awakens an intense interest.</p> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id= + "Page_282">282</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER XVI</h3> + + <h4>HOW TO DISTINGUISH RUGS</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/t.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="T" + title="T" /></span>HE owner of an Oriental rug will find the + pleasure to be derived from it will be greater if he knows where + and by whom it was made. This is particularly true if it is one + of those pieces of which the charm depends more on its + individuality than on the masterly handling of line and colour. + The study of classification, therefore, will well repay the + effort; though unfortunately it is often discouraging, since it + involves a consideration of the characteristics of a hundred + different classes, almost all of which are found to have + exceptions to the best known types. To add to the difficulty, the + opinions of dealers in regard to the less known classes are very + often erroneous; and detailed descriptions, even at the best, are + unsatisfactory. Without a long personal experience in handling + rugs, combined with careful study, it is impossible to become + expert; but familiarity with one class makes it easier by + comparison and a process of elimination to distinguish + others.</p> + + <p>The beginner should first learn to identify each of the six + groups. Of these the Chinese can readily be distinguished by + their well-known patterns, which are found in no other part of + the Orient except in the rugs known as Samarkands, Yarkands, and + Kashgars; and the Indian may generally be recognised by the + realism and formal arrangement of their floral patterns. + Relatively few of either group are found in the United States; + and as about ninety per cent of the rugs belong to the other four + groups, they alone will be considered in detail. Leaving out of + consideration, then, the Chinese and Indian rugs, it should be + remembered:</p> + + <p class="indent3">(<i>a</i>) That, as a rule, rugs from Persia + have floral patterns; and rugs from Asia Minor, Caucasia, and + Central Asia have geometric.</p> + + <p class="indent3">(<i>b</i>) That figures with latch-hooks + belong principally to rugs of the Caucasian group and, to a + limited extent, to the rugs of the Asia Minor group.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p63" id="p63"></a><img src="images/plate63.jpg" + width="550" height="729" alt= + "Plate 63. XVIII Century Chinese Rug" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 63. XVIII Century + Chinese Rug</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id= + "Page_283">283</a></span></p> + + <p class="indent3">(<i>c</i>) That fields covered with designs of + octagonal or diamond shape belong to rugs of the Central Asian + group.</p> + + <p class="indent3">(<i>d</i>) That about two thirds of the + Persian group have cotton warp; and the remaining third, as well + as the Asia Minor and almost all the Caucasian and Central Asian + group have woollen warp.</p> + + <p class="indent3">(<i>e</i>) That about one third of the Persian + group have one of the two threads of warp encircled by a knot + doubled under the other so as to be hidden at the back; and that + this is not the case with the remaining two thirds nor with + almost all classes of other groups.</p> + + <p class="indent3">(<i>f</i>) That, with few exceptions, the + Persian rugs have a side finish of overcasting; and the other + groups have both overcasting and selvage.</p> + + <p class="indent3">(<i>g</i>) That the rugs from Persia and + Central Asia have both light and dark colours which, though rich, + are subdued and harmonious; that the rugs of Asia Minor and + Caucasia have colours that are often gaudy and inharmonious; and + that the rugs of the Central Asian group have dark tones of red, + blue, and brown.</p> + + <p class="indent3">(<i>h</i>) That all of the rugs of Asia Minor + and Caucasia have the Ghiordes knot; that the rugs of Central + Asia, with rare exceptions, have the Sehna knot; that the rugs of + Persia with woollen warp have the Ghiordes knot; and that those + with cotton warp have either the Ghiordes or the Sehna knot.</p> + + <p class="indent3">(<i>i</i>) That the few classes of rugs which + have very long end-webs belong to the Central Asian group. Of the + classes with moderately long end-webs, several belong to the + Central Asian and the Asia Minor groups, only two belong to the + Persian group, and none belongs to the Caucasian group.</p> + + <p>Excluding the Indian and Chinese rugs, it follows from the + above statements that:</p> + +<table summary="carpet groups"> +<tr> +<td class="left"><p class="indent4">(1) A rug is from Persia or Central +Asia,—</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left padl3"><p class="indent4">If it has a Sehna knot.</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left"><p class="indent4">(2) A rug is probably Persian,—</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left padl3"><p class="indent4">If the pattern is distincly floral</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left padl3"><p class="indent4">If the warp is cotton;</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left padl3"><p class="indent4">If one of the two threads of warp encircled by a knot is doubled +under the other.</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id= +"Page_284">284</a></span><p class="indent4">(3) A rug is probably from Asia Minor, +Caucasia, or Central Asia,—</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left padl3"><p class="indent4">If the pattern is geometric;</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left padl3"><p class="indent4">If the sides are selvaged.</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left"><p class="indent4">(4) A rug is probably from Asia Minor or +Caucasia,—</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left padl3"><p class="indent4">If the colours are gaudy or inharmonious.</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left"><p class="indent4">(5) A rug is probably from +Caucasia,—</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left padl3"><p class="indent4">If the designs are largely fringed with latch-hooks.</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left"><p class="indent4">(6) A rug is probably from Central +Asia,—</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left padl3"><p class="indent4">If the field is covered with octagons or diamond-shaped designs, +and has dark tones of red, blue or brown;</p></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="left padl3"><p class="indent4">If it has long webs at the ends.</p></td> +</tr> +</table> + + <p>Of these four groups the Persian has the largest number of + classes, some of which can only with difficulty be distinguished + from one another. They may, however, conveniently be divided into + the following sub-groups, depending on the technical + peculiarities of the weaving and the material of the warp, so + that the task of learning the class of a particular rug will be + greatly facilitated by first determining to which of these + sub-groups it belongs, and then eliminating the others from + consideration.</p> + + <table class="a" width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="0"> + <tr> + <td class="left23a padt3" rowspan="24">Cotton Warp</td> + + <td class="left2 padt3" rowspan="24"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb500.png" + width="10" height="500" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23" rowspan="2">One thread of warp to each + knot doubled under and hidden at back.</td> + + <td class="left2 padt05" rowspan="2"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb120.png" + width="10" height="120" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23">Sehna Knot (A)</td> + + <td class="left2"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb120.png" + width="10" height="120" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23"> + Kashan<br /> + Kermanshah<br /> + Khorassan<br /> + Kirman<br /> + Meshed<br /> + Mir Sarabend<br /> + Sarouk.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left23">Ghiordes Knot (B)</td> + + <td class="left2"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb75.png" + width="10" height="75" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23"> + Gorevan<br /> + Herat<br /> + Herez<br /> + Serapi<br /> + Tabriz</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left23" rowspan="2">Each thread of warp equally + prominentat back or one slightly depressed.</td> + + <td class="left2 padb05" rowspan="2"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb100.png" + width="10" height="100" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23">Sehna Knot (C)</td> + + <td class="left2"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb75.png" + width="10" height="75" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23"> + Feraghan<br /> + Mahal<br /> + Muskabad<br /> + Royal Sarabend</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left23">Ghiordes Knot (D)</td> + + <td class="left2"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb75.png" + width="10" height="75" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23"> + Gulistan<br /> + Iran<br /> + Joshaghan<br /> + Luristan<br /> + Sultanabad</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left23" rowspan="2">quincunx effect of weft at + back.</td> + + <td class="left2 padt05" rowspan="2"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb50.png" + width="10" height="50" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23">Sehna Knot (E)</td> + + <td class="left2"> </td> + + <td class="left23"> <br /> + Sehna<br /> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left23">Ghiordes Knot (F)</td> + + <td class="left2"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb30.png" + width="10" height="30" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23">Hamadan<br /> + Ispahan (modern)</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id= + "Page_285">285</a></span>It should be remembered, when studying + the foregoing table, that all classes of rugs are subject to + occasional variations in the technicalities of their weave, as + for instance, the Herats may have woollen warp and Sehna knots; + the Tabriz very often have linen warp; some of the Feraghans, + Mahals, Muskabads, and Sehnas have the Ghiordes knot and some of + the Sultanabads have the Sehna knot; the Joshaghans may have + woollen warp; and in modern Ispahans the weft sometimes crosses + twice between two rows of knots.</p> + + <table width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="0"> + <tr> + <td class="left23a"></td> + + <td class="left2"></td> + + <td class="left23"></td> + <td class="left23"></td> + <td class="right5"></td> + + <td class="left2"></td> + + <td class="left23"></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left23a" rowspan="3">Woolen Warp,<br /> + Ghiordes Knot.</td> + + <td class="left2" rowspan="3"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb200.png" + width="10" height="200" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23" colspan="2">One thread of warp to each + knot doubled under at back</td> + <td class="right5">(G)</td> + + <td class="left2"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb30.png" + width="10" height="30" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23">Bijar.<br /> + Niris<a name="FNanchor_37" id="FNanchor_37"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">37</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left23" colspan="2">Each of the two threads of + warp to a knot equally prominent at back, or one slightly + depressed</td> + + <td class="right5">(H)</td> + + <td class="left2"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb100.png" + width="10" height="100" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23">Karadagh.<br /> + Suj-Bulak.<br /> + Kurdistan.<br /> + Afshar.<br /> + Mosul.<br /> + Shiraz.<a name="FNanchor_38" id="FNanchor_38"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_38" class="fnanchor">38</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left23" colspan="2">Quincunx effect of weft at + back</td> + + <td class="right5">(I)</td> + + <td class="left2"> </td> + + <td class="left23">Karaje.<a name="FNanchor_39" id= + "FNanchor_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39" class= + "fnanchor">39</a></td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p>With reference to size, these rugs may conveniently be divided + as follows:</p> + + <table class="a" width="100%" summary="TECHNICALITIES" border="0"> + <tr> + <td class="left23"></td> + <td class="left23"></td> + <td class="left23"></td> + <td class="left2"></td> + <td class="left23"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left23" colspan="3">Rugs invariably of carpet size</td> + + <td class="left2"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb100.png" + width="10" height="100" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23">Gorevan.<br /> + Mahal.<br /> + Muskabad.<br /> + Serapi.<br /> + Sultanabad</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left23" colspan="3">Rugs frequently, but not + always, of carpet size</td> + + <td class="left2"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb100.png" + width="10" height="100" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23">Bijar.<br /> + Herat.<br /> + Kermanshah.<br /> + Khorassan.<br /> + Meshed.<br /> + Sarabend.<br /> + Tabriz.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left23" colspan="3">Rugs frequently seen as + runners</td> + + <td class="left2"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 10px;"> + <img src="images/cb50.png" + width="10" height="50" alt="bracket" title="" /></div></td> + + <td class="left23">Hamadan.<br /> + Karaje.<br /> + Kurdistan.<br /> + Mosul.</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p>Of the sub-groups represented on Page 284, “A” + includes those that have the closest and finest woven texture. In + this respect the Kashans, Sarouks, and Kirmans are, in the order + named, superior to the others; and the Kermanshahs are the + coarsest and the least evenly woven. In sub-group “B” + the Tabriz are the best woven and have the shortest nap. The + Gorevans and Serapis have several concentric medallions, in which + are designs of archaically drawn <span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_286" id="Page_286">286</a></span>leaves, and have generally + the so-called turtle border. The Herats have the typical Herati + border. Of the classes of sub-group “C,” the Royal + Sarabends are the closest woven. The Feraghans are slightly + coarser and the Mahals and Muskabads are much coarser and have + longer nap. The Luristans, Joshaghans, and Gulistans are the best + woven of sub-group “D.” At the back of Luristans each + half knot is distinct from the other like a separate bead; and in + a few Joshaghans each half knot is almost as distinct. Both Irans + and Sultanabads are coarsely woven. Comparing sub-groups + “E” and “F,” the weave of Sehnas presents + a file-like appearance at the back; and in Hamadans the weft is + of much coarser diameter than in the other two classes. The + Bijars of sub-group “G” are much stouter than the + Niris and have one of the two threads of weft to each knot more + completely doubled under the other. The webs at the ends of the + Niris are very much longer than those of Bijars. Sub-group + “H” contains the Kurdistans, Suj-Bulaks and Mosuls, + all of which are woven in territory where for generations the + Kurds have held sway, and show Kurdish characteristics. The + Western Kurdistans may easily be distinguished by their brown + colours, nomadic character, and coarse warp and weft. The Persian + Kurdistans are very stoutly and firmly woven, and usually have + one of the two threads of warp encircled by a knot depressed + below the other. The Mosuls have each of the two threads of warp + encircled by a knot equally prominent at the back; and a + characteristic feature is the coloured, crudely spun yarn of + weft, which on account of the size of its diameter stands up as + high as the yarn of the knots at the back. In a typical Suj-Bulak + the alignment of knots at the back appears uneven or serrated. + The Karadaghs have Caucasian characteristics; the Afshars have + coarse, wiry wool for the weft, and threads of warp strung so + that each half knot is distinct.</p> + + <p>Although the technicalities of weaving are the most reliable + evidence for determining the class to which a rug belongs, the + patterns are important guides. It will be well, therefore, to + remember that:</p> + + <p>A Persian rug is probably a Shiraz, Karadagh, Karaje, Mosul, + Kurdistan, or Afshar, if the pattern is partly geometric.</p> + + <p>If the field has concentric medallions, the rug may be a + Kermanshah, Sarouk, Kashan, Sehna, Gorevan, Herez, Tabriz, Mahal, + Muskabad, or Sultanabad.</p> + + <p>If the field is covered with pear designs, the rug may be a + Sarabend, Burujird, Khorassan, Shiraz, Niris, Iran, Joshaghan, or + Luristan.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p64" id="p64"></a><img src="images/plate64.jpg" + width="550" height="835" alt= + "Plate 64. Chinese Rug of the Keen-Lung Period" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 64. Chinese Rug of + the Keen-Lung Period</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id= + "Page_287">287</a></span></p> + + <p>If the field is covered with small Herati designs, the rug may + be a Feraghan, Sehna, or an Iran.</p> + + <p>If the field is covered with small designs of the Guli Hinnai + plant, the rug may be a Feraghan.</p> + + <p>If the field is covered with the Mina Khani pattern, the rug + may be a Persian Kurdistan.</p> + + <p>A Persian rug is usually a Shiraz, Niris, Mosul, or Kurdistan + if the nap is long.</p> + + <p>It is almost invariably either a Shiraz or a Niris if the webs + of the ends are long, and the overcasting of the sides has a + barber-pole design or has short lengths of different colours. The + Niris resembles the Shiraz; but one thread of warp to each knot + is more depressed, the ends generally have longer webs, and the + field is more frequently covered with large pear designs. It is a + Shiraz if short tassels or tufts project at regular intervals + from the ends; and it is probably a Niris if it has a long + end-web of different coloured stripes.</p> + + <p>It is probably a Karadagh, Gorevan, Serapi, Herez, or Tabriz + if the sides are finished with a selvage.</p> + + <p>Many of these classes have features by which they can be + distinguished at once from all others. For instance:</p> + + <p>The Sarabend has a field completely covered with pear designs + of moderate size facing in opposite directions in alternate + lines; borders of several stripes, of which one or two are ivory + white with an angular vine from which are suspended mechanically + drawn pear designs, and one or two narrow stripes with reciprocal + trefoils. Only two other classes are similar: the Iran copies, + which are always woven more coarsely and have the Ghiordes knot, + and the Burujirds, which are rarely seen.</p> + + <p>Most Feraghans have fields that are completely covered with + small Herati or Guli Hinnai designs, and have the turtle pattern + in the border. The only other rugs that are similar are the Iran + copies, which have the Ghiordes knot and are more coarsely + woven.</p> + + <p>Almost all Hamadans may be distinguished at once by the broad + band of camel’s hair surrounding the border, and the coarse + weft crossing only once between two rows of knots so as to give a + quincunx effect at the back.</p> + + <p>Gorevans are invariably of carpet size. They have fields + almost covered with central medallions on which are archaically + drawn leaves, and a broad central border stripe with a large + conventionalised turtle pattern. They have usually the same + colour tones,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id= + "Page_288">288</a></span> which once seen are not forgotten. The + Serapis are similar to Gorevans but are usually older and of + better colours.</p> + + <p>The Kermanshahs have tones of ivory, pink, and light green, + that are softer and lighter than those of almost any other rug. + The fields have concentric medallions with dainty floral forms + that are rarely seen in other classes except the Sarouks and + Kashans; and the borders, that correspond in drawing and + colouring with the field, have an outer edging that is almost + invariably of pink, but sometimes dark blue. The drawing and + colours, which are not easily described but quickly learned, at + once distinguish these pieces from all others.</p> + + <p>Some Mesheds resemble Kermanshahs, but the nap is more silky, + uneven, and lustrous. The texture at the back is finer.</p> + + <p>The rugs of Tabriz, which are usually made in carpet sizes, + may be distinguished by their linen nap hanging in a short fringe + at the ends. They are not likely to be confused with any classes + but the Mesheds, Khorassans, and Kermanshahs; but the nap is + shorter, and harsher to the touch; the knot is Ghiordes, and the + drawing more formal.</p> + + <p>Almost the only Persian rug that has small, geometric, + adventitious designs and latch-hooks is the Shiraz. It is the + only one that has small tufts of wool projecting from the sides; + and with the exception of the Niris is the only one that, as a + rule, has a barber-pole overcasting and a long web at the ends. + It is also one of the most loosely woven.</p> + + <p>The Sarouk and Kashan may be distinguished from all others by + their short velvety nap; dark rich colours; fields of graceful + foliated stalks and floral forms resting on concentric + medallions; and the fine, firm, texture of the weave. A carefully + drawn design of the running latch-hook appears in the borders; + and the weft is usually some shade of blue. The Kashans are + almost the same as Sarouks but have closer weave and finer + texture. They very rarely come in large sizes.</p> + + <p>Muskabads and Mahals are invariably made in large carpet + sizes. Their texture is firm; they are very coarsely woven; and + there is great irregularity in the size of the knots as shown at + the back. Of the two, the Mahals are the better grade.</p> + + <p>A large rug with woollen warp and with one thread of warp to + each knot doubled under the other is almost always a Bijar.</p> + + <p>Sehnas are always very thin rugs and of small or moderate + size. With few exceptions the field is covered with Herati or + pear designs.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id= + "Page_289">289</a></span> They can be identified by the quincunx + appearance of the fine cotton weft at the back and the file-like + feeling of the weave.</p> + + <p>The only Persian rug that has a side selvage and also shows + evidence of Caucasian influence in the geometric drawing of the + patterns is the Karadagh.</p> + + <p>The Gozenes may be distinguished from other classes by their + dull colours. In many of them each thread of warp is encircled by + the right half of some knots and the left half of others.</p> + + <p class="tb">The Asia Minor rugs have so many features in common + that they cannot conveniently be divided into sub-groups. For + instance: almost all have a coloured weft, a coloured web with + fringe at the ends, and a selvage at the sides; all, excepting + the Ghiordes and a few modern pieces, have woollen warp and weft; + and all have the Ghiordes knot. To be sure, a distinction may be + made in the length of the nap, since as a rule the Bergamo, + Rhodian, Karaman, Yuruk, and some of the Anatolians have a long + nap; and the remainder usually have a short nap; and also in the + weaving, as in the Bergamo, Ghiordes, Karaman, Kulah, and Ladik, + one thread of warp to each knot is generally depressed, and in + the remaining classes all threads of warp are equally prominent; + furthermore, Anatolians, Bergamos, Karamans, Rhodians, and + Koniehs, have rarely more than three stripes to the border; and + Kir-Shehrs, Kulahs, Ladiks, and Ghiordes have seldom less than + five; but these features are not always constant and pronounced. + The patterns, therefore, and those smaller designs which + frequently are peculiar to a single class are of considerable + assistance in distinguishing one from the other. The arch of the + namazliks is also an invaluable feature for identification since + its shape is different in each class as will be seen by reference + to Plates C and D (Pages 61 and 63).</p> + + <p>Leaving out of consideration modern pieces, made to meet the + demands of exporting companies, the Bergamo and Rhodian have + certain points of resemblance. As a rule, they are almost square, + and have long nap, long webs with coloured bands at the ends, a + side selvage, and coloured weft. The Rhodian may generally be + distinguished by their brighter colours and their panels, + suggesting windows, placed parallel to the length of the rug. The + Bergamos, which are more frequently seen, have rich, deep blue + and red colouring, and more devices to avert the evil eye than + any other Oriental rug.</p> + + <p>Two panels, one above the arch and the other below the + field,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id= + "Page_290">290</a></span> are almost invariably seen in the + Ghiordes prayer rugs and occasionally in the Kulahs, but rarely + in any other classes. The typical pattern of the central border + stripe of Ghiordes prayer rugs, consisting of most + conventionalised leaf and rosette, is not seen in any other rugs; + nor is the pattern of the broad border stripe of the odjaliks and + sedjadehs, consisting of an undulating band covered with small + flecks and fringed with latch-hooks.</p> + + <p>The most characteristic features in the pattern of Kulahs are + the numerous narrow fleck-covered bands that occupy the centre of + the border, and the secondary stripe with design like a Chinese + device represented in <a href="#ph">Plate H</a>, Fig. 10 (opp. + Page 194).</p> + + <p>The pomegranates at the end of the field, and the Rhodian + lilies in the main stripe of the border, distinguish Ladik prayer + rugs from all others. Figures of vandykes, which are seen in some + Anatolians and Mudjars, are also a constant feature of + Ladiks.</p> + + <p>A characteristic feature of Koniehs is the row of sprigs with + three triangular-shaped petals that project from the border + against the field.</p> + + <p>As a rule, the Kir-Shehrs contain in the field a larger amount + of grass-green colour than any other rug.</p> + + <p>The narrow border stripe of thumb-like processes that fit one + another like cogs and the mauve or heliotrope colour are + important aids in distinguishing Melez rugs.</p> + + <p>On account of their long pile and their patterns of + latch-hooks and other geometric figures, the Yuruks alone of all + this group resemble the Caucasian rugs. They may also be + distinguished from other Asia Minor rugs by the facts that the + weft is of coarse, wiry wool, and the threads of warp are not + strung closely together, so that at the back each half knot + appears very distinct from the other.</p> + + <p class="tb">A similarity prevails in the technique of most + Caucasian rugs, as all have the Ghiordes knot, and almost all + have warp and weft of wool, sides that are selvaged, and ends + with a web and loose fringe. Moreover, classes that are in a + measure geographically related show resemblances, as for + instance: the Chichi, Daghestan, Kabistan, and Shirvan, which + have short nap; the Tcherkess, Kazak, and Genghas which have + medium to long nap; and the Soumak, Shemakha, and Kuba, which + have a similar selvage at sides and ends. The only classes in + which one thread of warp to each knot is depressed or doubled + under the other are the Karabagh, Shemakha, and Shusha, from the + southeastern part of Caucasia, and the Lesghian from the northern + part.</p> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id= + "Page_291">291</a></span></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="po" id="po"></a><img src="images/plateo.jpg" width= + "550" height="808" alt="Plate O." title="" /> + + <p class="center3"><span class="smcap">Plate O.</span> No. 1, + Shah Abbas design. No. 2, Mina Khani design. No. 3, Guli Hinnai + design. No. 4, Herati design. Nos. 5-a, b, c, d, e, f, + Swastikas. Nos. 6-a, b. c, d, e, f, g, h, i, j, k, l, m, Pear + designs. No. 7, Cloud-bands. No. 8, Pitcher. No. 9, Motives of + Asia Minor and Armenian rugs. No. 10, Octagonal disc. No. 11, + Combs. No. 12, Motives of Melez rugs. Nos. 13-a, b, c, d, 14, + 15, conventionalised leaf-forms in Asia Minor rugs. Nos. 16-a, + b, c, The lotus. No. 17, Knot of destiny. Nos. 18-a, b, Motives + of Daghestans and Kabistans.</p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id= + "Page_292">292</a></span>The Soumak with its flat stitch and with + ends of yarn hanging loose at the back is unlike all other rugs. + At the sides is a carefully woven selvage, and next to the nap at + the end is a narrow selvage of fine spun threads. The rugs of + Shemakha, woven by some of the same tribes who dwell nearer the + mountains, have similar selvages at the sides of blue or bluish + green, similar ends of a narrow web of “herring-bone” + weave and one or more rows of knots, and a medium long nap of + rich blues, reds, yellows, browns, and greens. The Kuba rugs are + almost identical with them, except that each thread of warp is + equally prominent at the back, whereas in the Shemakhas one + thread to each knot is depressed. When once these selvages, the + narrow end-webs of “herring-bone” weave, and the + particular tones of colour characteristic of these rugs have been + carefully observed, they are not forgotten. The well-known + Georgian stripe (Plate <a href="#pj">J</a>, Fig. 9, opp. Page + 228) is rarely found in any but these three classes.</p> + + <p>The Baku rug may be distinguished by its geometric-shaped pear + designs, and stiffly drawn birds. If modern, the tones are + dull.</p> + + <p>Long, shaggy nap, strong colours, of which red and green are + almost invariably present, and large designs surrounded by + numerous small nomadic figures are the general features of a + Kazak. The Tcherkess has a striking resemblance to it, so that + they are constantly mistaken for one another; but the Tcherkess + is generally better woven and the pattern usually consists of + what is known as the “Sunburst” resting on a field of + dull red or a tawny shade. The border is almost invariably of + three stripes, of which the central has the tarantula design, and + the two guards have a reciprocal sawtooth design.</p> + + <p>The field of the typical Chichi has an all-over pattern of + small geometric design; and its main border stripe has rosettes + separated by diagonal ribbon-like bars, as shown in Plate + <a href="#pi">I</a>, Fig. 6 (opp. Page 226).</p> + + <p>Rugs from the Karabagh district may frequently be recognised + by the Persian influence in the drawing of their patterns.</p> + + <p>Genghas may readily be distinguished from other classes of + this group by the fact that the weft crosses more than twice and + frequently many times, between every two rows of knots, which are + not appressed, so that the weft, as it encircles the warp, + appears at the back like a narrow beaded surface.</p> + + <p>Daghestans, Kabistans, and Shirvans have so many different + patterns that it is not always easy to distinguish the classes; + but it will be some assistance to remember that the border design + of wine cup and serrated leaf (Plate <a href="#pi">I</a>, Fig. 1, + opp. Page 226) is found in about one half of the Shirvans, and + that the bracket design (Plate J, Fig. 19, opp. Page 228) is + peculiar to Daghestans and Kabistans.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> + <a name="p65" id="p65"></a><img src="images/plate65.jpg" + width="550" height="835" alt= + "Plate 65. Chinese Rug of the Keen-Lung Period" title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate</span> 65. + <span class="smcap">Chinese Rug of the Keen-Lung + Period</span></p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id= + "Page_293">293</a></span></p> + + <p class="tb">The small Central Asiatic group is not only unlike + other groups, but may naturally be divided into three sub-groups, + which are also distinct from one another and contain well-defined + classes, viz.:</p> + + <p class="indent3">(<i>a</i>) Afghan, Royal Bokhara, Princess + Bokhara, Tekke, Khiva, Yomud, and Beshire.</p> + + <p class="indent3">(<i>b</i>) Samarkand, Kashgar, and + Yarkand.</p> + + <p class="indent3">(<i>c</i>) Beluchistan.</p> + + <p>In the first sub-group the prevailing colours are dark reds + and browns with minor quantities of blue, green, and ivory. The + Afghans are almost always of large size, and may be recognised at + once by the broad web of the ends and the large octagonal shaped + figures placed in contact in perpendicular rows. The Royal + Bokharas are smaller, the end webs are not so wide, the octagons + are never in contact and are separated diagonally by + diamond-shaped figures. The Princess Bokharas and many Tekkes + have the Katchli pattern. The Yomuds resemble the other classes + of this sub-group in colour; but in the fields, diamond designs + have entirely replaced the octagons.</p> + + <p>The rugs of sub-group “b” almost always have + cotton warp; whereas the rugs of sub-groups “a” and + “c” invariably have woollen or goat’s hair + warp.</p> + + <p>The Samarkands are somewhat similar in colours and patterns to + Chinese rugs, but may be distinguished by the fact that they + almost invariably have three border stripes, whereas the Chinese + usually have only one or two. The Kashgar and Yarkand also show + Chinese influence.</p> + + <p>The Beluchistans with brown, blue, green, and claret colours + may be identified at once by their long embroidered webs at each + end.</p> + + <p>In the determination of the class to which a rug belongs, the + pattern first of all attracts attention; and if it be one + peculiar to a single class, it is an important guide. But in the + great majority of cases, this will not be sufficient. It is, + therefore, desirable to observe if the designs be floral or + geometric, if the colours be subdued or obtrusive, if the knot be + Sehna or Ghiordes, if the warp be cotton<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">294</a></span> or + wool. The variations in finish of sides and ends are also an + index of the class. The pattern and these few technical details + are the only characteristics by which most dealers attempt to + determine the different kinds of rugs. But in the case of half of + them, such evidence is far from conclusive. The back should be + even more carefully examined than the front; because here are + shown those subtle, but nevertheless positive distinctions, + relating to the manner of tying the knot and the treatment of + warp and weft, which are the most permanent tribal + characteristics of Oriental weaving. It should be noticed, then, + if each thread of warp encircled by the yarn that forms the knot + lies in the same plane parallel with the surface and is equally + prominent; or if one to each knot be depressed below the other, + or if it be doubled under the other so as to be concealed. It + should also be noticed if the weft be coloured or uncoloured, of + fine or of coarse diameter; and if a thread of weft crosses only + once or two or more times from side to side between every two + rows of knots. Furthermore, the knots themselves should be + carefully scrutinised to see if each row of them is firmly + pressed down upon the weft, if each knot has a length equal or + exceeding its width, if the yarn of which they are formed is + drawn tight against the warp, and if it is loosely or closely + spun. Only by consideration of all these different points, and + sometimes even more, such as the nature of the colours, the + character of wool, and the manner in which it is spun, is it + possible to determine doubtful cases of identification.</p> + <hr /> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id= + "Page_295">295</a></span></p> + + <h3>CHAPTER XVII</h3> + + <h4>PURCHASING RUGS</h4> + + <p><span class="floatLeft"><img src="images/a.jpg" width="110" height="110" alt="A" + title="a" /></span>S those who have expert knowledge of the value + of Oriental rugs are exceedingly few, compared with those who + admire and wish to own them, the object of this chapter is to + make suggestions regarding a proper selection, when purchasing, + and to point out some of the pitfalls that beset the + inexperienced.</p> + + <p>In estimating the value of any rug, three distinct qualities + are to be considered: rarity, artistic beauty, and utility.</p> + + <p>Rarity may depend on the age of a rug, the locality where it + was woven, or its type. In determining the age, which as a rule + is greatly exaggerated, a number of facts should be considered. + One is the condition resulting from wear; though at times this is + misleading, since of two pieces, one may have been handled with + almost religious solicitude and the other exposed to the elements + and to hard usage. Moreover, an artificial appearance of natural + wear is sometimes counterfeited. Another is the pattern, since, + as has been shown in the case of antique carpets, the character + of drawing changed with succeeding periods. Even when the + patterns of old carpets are copied in modern pieces, a + distinction is usually discernible to a careful observer. The + colours, too, play an important part in determining age; for not + only are some characteristic of different periods, as particular + shades of yellow and green of Chinese rugs and the blue of + Persian; but the mellowing influences of time, acting through the + agencies of exposure and wear, cause effects that cannot be + produced by any artificial process.</p> + + <p>Occasionally the time when a rug is made is recorded in Arabic + numbers woven above a word denoting “year.” If they + are indistinct on account of the length of the nap, they may be + more clearly read in reverse order at the back. In the following + lines, each of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id= + "Page_296">296</a></span> them is represented below the one in + our own notation, to which it corresponds.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> + <a name="symbols" id="symbols"></a><img src= + "images/symbols.png" width="400" height="93" alt= + "Arabic numerals" title="" /> + </div> + + <p>These numbers represent not the Christian but the Mohammedan + year, which, dating from the time of the Hegira, began about the + middle of July 622, or a little before the actual flight from + Medina. It should also be remembered that the lunar and not the + solar year is considered in Moslem chronology; which, according + to our reckoning, gains about one year in every thirty-three and + seven tenths years. To calculate, then, the year of our time + corresponding with the year expressed in the rug, from the number + should be subtracted one thirty-three and seven tenths part of + itself, and then should be added six hundred and twenty-two. + Thus, if the year 1247 was woven in the rug, our corresponding + year would be <span class="smcap">a. d.</span> 1247 less 37 (or + 1210) plus 622, or 1832. When such dates appear in old rugs, they + are generally to be depended on, but in modern ones they are more + likely to be antedated to give the effect of greater age.</p> + + <p>With reference to the time when woven, rugs may conveniently + be divided into three broad classes; Antique rugs or carpets made + over two centuries ago; old rugs made fifty or more years ago; + and modern rugs made since the introduction of aniline dyes, or + within the last fifty years.</p> + + <p>The number of antique carpets that exist is undetermined, as + it is impossible to estimate how many remain in Oriental mosques + and palaces. Nor has any complete catalogue been made of those + that are owned in Europe and America. They consist principally of + the products of Persia, Asia Minor, Armenia, and China. Many + belong to the museums and the remainder to sovereigns and wealthy + collectors. Like rare porcelains and old paintings, their value + increases with each passing year; and the prices received for + them range according to the fancy and caprice of the purchaser. + They are the most valued and the most costly of all rugs.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> + <a name="p66" id="p66"></a><img src="images/plate66.jpg" + width="500" height="835" alt="Plate 66. Kurdish Prayer Kilim" + title="" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 66. Kurdish Prayer + Kilim</span></p> + </div> + + <p>The number of rugs over fifty years of age, but not belonging + to the previous class, is very large. A few are sufficiently + prized to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id= + "Page_297">297</a></span>be placed in art museums, some belong to + collectors, large numbers embellish the halls and drawing rooms + of people of refinement, and others are yearly brought from the + Orient; but dealers and the public already realise that their + numbers are limited. Even now they are searched for in the + remotest corners of every rug-producing country; and in a few + years the last, now cherished as family heirlooms, will have been + exchanged for western gold. Almost all are well woven, though + some are too much worn to be trodden longer under foot. None are + treated with aniline dyes, but the colours mellowed by time are + exceptionally good and frequently contain rare tones + characteristic of the first class. Moreover, large numbers + contain emblems of a symbolism still shrouded in mysteries that + increase their fascination. On the whole, this is the choicest + stock from which to choose elegant carpetings for luxurious + homes. When it is considered that rugs of this class are + beginning to disappear from the market, the prices at which they + may be purchased are moderate compared with the prices of more + modern pieces.</p> + + <p>The great majority of existing Oriental rugs have been woven + within the last fifty years. A few of them, including many of the + newest, have colours that compare favourably with those of older + pieces; but a large number show the effect of aniline dyes. Some + woven by nomads or dwellers in remote villages, without thought + of sale, have designs and workmanship such as have characterised + the fabrics of these people for past generations; but others, + which are the products of the work-house system, though well + woven as a rule, lack the charm of spontaneous individuality. Age + alone has little influence in determining the value of these + modern rugs, since they have not yet become rare; yet even in + them the wear of time affects their other qualities. Other things + being equal, they cost less than the old and the antique + rugs.</p> + + <p>The locality where a rug was woven is also to be considered in + determining its rarity and therefore its value. Of the countless + carpets that once existed in Egypt, of the very early rugs of + Caucasia and Turkestan, not a piece remains; but if one were to + be found it would be almost priceless. The antique carpets of + Syria, or of Kirman, Shiraz, and Tabriz, woven over three + centuries ago, are more valuable than others of equally good + workmanship, of which relatively large numbers remain. So, too, + of the rugs classed as old, but falling short of the venerable + age of the real antiques,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" + id="Page_298">298</a></span> those which are now difficult to be + obtained on account of their scarcity, are more valuable than + those which are being produced in larger numbers. Rugs such as + the Joshaghan, Tiflis, and many others of sixty or more years of + age, are no longer woven. Modern products from the same districts + may adopt the old names, but they are not the same. Accordingly, + it will be only a short time when they too will disappear from + the market. Good examples of such pieces should therefore receive + more careful consideration on the part of purchasers and + collectors, as their value is increasing with each passing + year.</p> + + <p>Furthermore, the rarity of an old rug is often independent of + its age or the locality where it was made, and is due to its + peculiar type. For instance, the Ming Rugs of China with silver + threads and the so-called Garden Carpets of Iran represent types + rather than localities. Likewise the Hunting Carpets of Persia, + the Holbein Carpets of Asia Minor, and the Dragon Carpets of + Armenia, represent, as far as we know, the textile craft of no + well-defined district of limited area, as is the case of modern + rugs, but rather rare types. Such pieces are valuable, not alone + on account of their age, but also because they represent these + rare types.</p> + + <p>A rug is also valued for its artistic beauty. The innumerable + rugs which centuries ago were in daily use soon disappeared, and + only those intended for palaces or temples have been preserved. + It is but natural, then, that the antique carpets representing + the highest art of their time should be not only rare but also + beautiful. Yet even in them is often a distinction that affects + their value. Fortunately, very many of the larger number of rugs + of less age, but classed as old, likewise possess artistic + beauty. This chiefly depends on the drawing and the + colouring.</p> + + <p>It will be noticed that almost without exception careful + drawing accompanies workmanship of a high class. This is partly + due to the facts that the more excellent the weave the easier it + is to clearly define patterns; and that on shortness of nap, + which as a rule is found in closely woven rugs, depends accuracy + of delineation. The charm of rugs often depends, also, on the + graceful flow of lines, the careful balance of different parts of + patterns, and the proper co-ordination between border and field. + Careful attention should accordingly be given to the drawing when + selecting a rug.</p> + + <p>The artistic beauty of Oriental rugs depends still more on + the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id= + "Page_299">299</a></span> colouring, since, as has been elsewhere + expressed, drawing, which is intellectual, finds its highest + development in the Occident, and colouring, which is sensuous, + finds its highest development in the Orient. It at once suggests + sumptuous luxury. In all of the antique carpets that remain and + in very many rugs over fifty years of age, all the colours + employed in a single piece are in tones of perfect harmony, and + are so placed with reference to one another that the effect is + most agreeable. But in some of the modern pieces, such as are + produced in parts of Asia Minor and Caucasia, are colours which, + like discordant notes of music, grate harshly on the senses. The + most pleasing effect is when colours of border and field are + complementary, yet so in harmony as to accentuate the qualities + of each.</p> + + <p>There are also colours which, independent of their + association, are in themselves good or bad. The best are found in + the antique carpets woven when the art of the dyer was an + honourable profession. The colours are also very good in still + later pieces; but for a century now some of the finest have not + been used, and even the secret of producing them has been lost. + Here and there dyers and weavers cling to early traditions, so + that among modern rugs are many examples of good colouring; but + the most recent pieces, excepting when softened by artificial + processes, often display harsh and garish colours. This + distinction is in a measure due to the fact that old colours were + largely produced by vegetable dyes and the modern are too often + produced by aniline. Not infrequently both vegetable and aniline + colours are used in the same piece, and sometimes the quantity of + aniline colour is so small that it is scarcely objectionable; but + as a rule it is best never to purchase a rug that is so + tainted.</p> + + <p>One objection to the use of aniline dyes is that by removing + some of the natural oil of the wool they are apt to make it + brittle, so that it is less able to stand wear. Another is that + in time some of the dyes, which have been applied collectively to + produce a single colour, will fade or even disappear, so that the + final colour may be a most undesirable shade not in harmony with + those that surround it. If the fibres are brittle and become + harsher to the touch when wet with water, it is an indication + that aniline dyes have been used. Another test is the application + of weak vegetable acids, which will make the colour spread if + produced by aniline dyes, but are not likely to affect it if + produced by vegetable dyes. Many na<span class='pagenum'><a name= + "Page_300" id="Page_300">300</a></span>tive weavers can + distinguish by placing the wool in their mouths, when they + experience a sweet or bitter taste, according as vegetable or + aniline dyes have been used. It is a mistake, however, to assume + that the dyes are aniline because the wool has a brighter colour + at the surface of the nap than at the foundation; or because the + colour spreads when wet with water; since in time even some of + the vegetable colours will fade; and when fresh they will run + during the first washing in water, but afterwards they are little + affected either by water or weak acids.</p> + + <p>Even when the same colours and the same kind of dyes were + used, there is a marked distinction in the appearance of old and + of recently woven rugs, which is due to wear as well as exposure + to sun and weather. The effect of time, imperceptible at first, + is shown in rich tones of remarkable softness and beauty, that + add greatly to the value of a rug. It accordingly happens that + artificial processes are adopted to create as far as possible the + same results without the lapse of time. Some of these are as + novel as were the efforts of the distinguished viceroy of King-te + Chin, in the reign of Kang-hi, to produce antique + porcelains.<a name="FNanchor_40" id="FNanchor_40"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_40" class="fnanchor">40</a> Henry Savage Landor + says<a name="FNanchor_41" id="FNanchor_41"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_41" class="fnanchor">41</a> that “to manufacture + ‘Antique Carpets’ is one of the most lucrative + branches of modern Persian carpet making. The new carpets are + spread in the bazar in the middle of the street, where it is most + crowded, and trampled upon for days or weeks, according to the + days required, foot passengers and their donkeys, mules and + camels making a point of treading on them in order to ‘add + to age’ in the manufacturer’s goods. When + sufficiently worn down the carpet is removed, brushed, and + ordinarily sold for double or treble the actual price, owing to + its antiquity.”</p> + + <h4><i>COLOUR PLATE XI—CHINESE RUG</i></h4> + + <p><i>This large Chinese carpet represents some of the best + workmanship of the Keen-lung period. In it are shown the graceful + drawing of leaf, fruit, flower, and butterfly, and the dainty + colouring of blue, yellow, brown, and apricot on a field of ivory + that are so characteristic of this time. The usual balance of + designs throughout the field is maintained with precision; but, + as is not always the case, different motives occupy corresponding + positions. Thus a cluster of leaves and fruit may be balanced + with a cluster of leaves and flowers. The conventional drawing of + the corners and the somewhat formal panel that surrounds the + central medallion give to the pattern strength of character while + they detract nothing from its beauty.</i></p> + + <p class="name"><i>Loaned by Mr. Nathan Bentz</i></p> + + <div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> + <a name="pxi" id="pxi"></a><img src="images/plate_xi.jpg" + width="400" height="859" alt= + "COLOUR PLATE XI--CHINESE RUG" title="" /> + </div> + + <p>Whatever may be their character, the methods employed to give + softened effects to the colours are known as + “washing.” Most of those in vogue in the Orient, such + as washing with lime water, do little real injury. In this + country to artificially mellow the colours has become a regular + business of firms, who guard the secret of their different + methods. Some use ammonia, borax, and soap, <span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">301</a></span>which + also do very little injury to the rug. Others use chloride of + lime, boracic acid, vinegar, or oxalic acid, that remove some of + the natural oils of the wool and accordingly impair its qualities + for wear. In fact, pieces are occasionally injured to the extent + that the wool has become brittle and may readily be plucked out. + Nevertheless, it does not necessarily follow that all rugs washed + with an acid solution have been seriously injured; but the + colours never have the same richness as those which have been + softened by natural processes operating for a long period of + years. To be sure, rugs that have been washed are often more + attractive than they were in their raw colours; but the older, + more beautiful rugs with genuine tones mellowed by time are + always to be preferred. Over ninety per cent of the Kermanshahs, + Sarouks, Kashans, Tabriz, Muskabads, Mahals, and Gorevans, and a + large percentage of all other modern rugs sold in this country, + have been treated by some artificial process to soften their + colours or give them the appearance of age. It is generally + necessary, when selecting a large rug for a floor covering, to + accept a washed piece; but when a smaller rug or a runner will + meet the requirements, it is preferable to choose the older + unwashed piece, which, as a rule, is more beautiful and costs but + little more. In the case of most pieces, the tones of colour are + sufficient to enable one who is experienced to distinguish + between those that are artificially aged and those that are not. + In the case of others, a simple test is to rub them thoroughly + with a wet rag; when, if acid or chloride of lime has been used, + it can generally be detected by the odour.</p> + + <p>The artistic beauty of a rug also depends somewhat on the + fineness of the nap; as the soft, floccy fibres of some wools + acquire a velvety appearance, or give to the colours a sheen and + a lustre compared with which other rugs look harsh and coarse. + For instance, the rugs of Shiraz and Meshed, the Beluchistans, + and many Bokharas are noted for the lustre of their colours; but + on the other hand many of the rugs of Asia Minor and Caucasia + have colours that are without lustre, and the rugs of India which + are made of dead or “Chunam” wool, seem lifeless.</p> + + <p>When selecting any rug, then, the purchaser should carefully + observe if the patterns are well drawn and their different parts + show a proper balance. He should observe if the colour tones are + harmonious with one another, if each colour in itself is good, + and if they have been softened by natural processes acting for a + long time.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id= + "Page_302">302</a></span> And he should notice if the wool is + coarse, dead, and lustreless, or if it has a sheen and glint in + the light of day; for these are the qualities that make up the + artistic beauty of a rug.</p> + + <p>The utility to be derived from rugs that properly belong to + museums and collectors receives small consideration, though even + with them the more perfect their condition the more valuable they + are. But in case of the great majority of rugs, which are + intended for use as well as for ornament, their utility is an + important consideration to the purchaser. Rugs that have warp and + weft of strong yarn and a close firm texture, will wear better + than others. Also, such rugs as Bijars, in which one thread of + warp to each knot is doubled under the other, will be found to + wear better than such rugs as Mosuls which have each thread of + warp equally prominent at the back. For durability, long nap is + also to be preferred to short, since it protects the foundations + of the knots from wearing and becoming loose.</p> + + <p>Before purchasing an old rug, it should be spread on the floor + to see if it lies flat and if its shape is regular. It should be + examined by daylight and not by electric light, which gives a + false impression of colour and sheen. It should be held up with + the back turned to the purchaser, and carefully examined for weak + spots through which the light may pass; since, when so held, many + pieces which seem in good condition when lying on the floor, + resemble a sieve. The foundation threads should also be carefully + inspected, as sometimes they rot and will tear with slight + tension. Moreover, as the selvage or overcasting of the sides and + the webs of the ends are intended primarily not for ornament but + for protection, it should be noted if they are in good condition. + Sometimes the webs of the ends are entirely gone, so that + continual fraying of the nap is prevented with difficulty. + Sometimes the selvage or overcasting of the sides is broken and + some of the threads of warp are injured. Or the sides may be well + protected by a stout overcasting; but on examination it will be + seen that it is not the original finishing, and that some of the + border has disappeared. Again, it may have been overcast too + tightly, so that the sides curl and turn under, and thus expose + the border to injury when trodden on. Careful examination will + often reveal surprises. In many old rugs the field is full of + rents, that have been sewn together; in others entire pieces have + been removed, so that they are no longer of their original + length; or parts of the border are gone, or even the whole of it + has been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id= + "Page_303">303</a></span> replaced by the border of another rug; + yet all so deftly done that the changes are scarcely + noticeable.</p> + + <p>Nevertheless, old pieces, if otherwise meritorious, are not to + be discarded on account of a few imperfections, since what can be + accomplished in the hands of a careful repairer is remarkable. + Broken threads of warp and weft can be mended; missing knots can + be replaced with others of similar yarn; crooked pieces can be + straightened by loosening here and stretching there; borders that + curl can be flattened by removing the yarn and overcasting again + more carefully. In fact, if the nap be not so worn that the + foundation of warp and weft is exposed, it is far better to + choose an old rug with some rents than a new one with garish + aniline dyes. Nor should a piece be slighted, because the + brownish black areas of wool dyed with iron pyrites are worn low; + since often the most beautiful effects are obtained by a surface + of brighter colours standing out in relief, on account of the + worn blackish nap that surrounds it. Now and then a bargain can + be had by buying a rug which, because of some imperfection that + is not serious, has been passed by; and now and then a piece + reeking with dirt has proved, when properly cleansed, to be a + gem.</p> + + <p>The foundation, consisting of the warp and weft, receives but + little consideration from purchasers; yet it is one of the most + important indices of the quality of a rug, and its strength is + one of the most necessary conditions for utility. The warp is + best observed at the ends. In most Chinese and Indian rugs and in + some of the Persian, it is of cotton; in others it is of wool or + goat’s hair. In the Chinese rugs the diameter of the + threads of warp is much smaller than the diameter of the threads + of the weft, and has little strength, but in almost all other + rugs it is at least as large and as stout. The weft may readily + be observed at the back. In very many of the best rugs, it + consists of fine spun wool; but in many modern ones, it is of + coarse wool or cotton. The number of knots to the square inch + does not of itself demonstrate the quality of texture, since a + rug may have only a few knots of coarse diameter and be firmly + woven, or it may have many knots of fine diameter and be loosely + woven; but in the same class the better rug has generally more + knots than a poorer one. When selecting a rug, then, the back + should be most carefully observed; for here may be seen if the + yarn that forms the knots is well spun, if the knots themselves + are drawn tight and well pressed down, and if the + threads<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id= + "Page_304">304</a></span> of weft are carefully inserted and have + a texture that indicates fine workmanship. Almost invariably it + will be found that if the back of a rug shows good material, and + has an appearance of firmness and skilful, painstaking weaving, + the front will correspond with good colours and careful + drawing.</p> + + <p>The value of antique carpets, which depends to some extent on + their size, and to a much greater extent on their rarity and + character, is constantly increasing; for the reason that their + number is limited and each year they are more highly appreciated. + It is, therefore, impossible to affix even approximate prices; + but the sums paid at the Yerkes sale in 1910, when some thirty + pieces were sold at auction for an average of about $9,400, will + serve as a guide. The following are some of the pieces sold and + the prices realised:</p> + + <table width="100%" summary="Carpet prices"> + <tr> + <td class="left90"> + <p class="indent">Carpet, size 7 feet 4 inches by 5 feet 4 + inches, attributed to Western Persia, at end of XVI + Century, and purchased by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, + N. Y.</p> + </td> + + <td class="right10s">$5,600</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90"> + <p class="indent">Persian carpet, XVI Century, described on + page 86</p> + </td> + + <td class="right10s">5,600</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90"> + <p class="indent">Polish silk carpet, XVI Century, size 6 + feet 6 inches by 4 feet 7 inches</p> + </td> + + <td class="right10s">4,700</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90"> + <p class="indent">Polish silk carpet, XVI Century, size 6 + feet 6 inches by 4 feet 7 inches</p> + </td> + + <td class="right10s">3,500</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90"> + <p class="indent">Polish silk carpet, XVI Century, size 6 + feet 11 inches by 4 feet 10 inches</p> + </td> + + <td class="right10s">12,300</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90"> + <p class="indent">Silk carpet, XVI Century, size 7 feet + 2½ inches by 6 feet 5 inches, stated to have + belonged to the Ardebil Mosque</p> + </td> + + <td class="right10s">35,500</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90"> + <p class="indent">Moorish carpet, XVI Century, size 10 feet + 11 inches by 5 feet 10 inches, stated to have belonged to + the Ardebil Mosque and purchased by the Metropolitan Museum + of Art, N. Y.</p> + </td> + + <td class="right10s">15,200</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90"> + <p class="indent">Hispano Moresque Mosque carpet, size 34 + feet 5 inches by 16 feet 8 inches, flat stitch</p> + </td> + + <td class="right10s">8,600</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90"> + <p class="indent">Carpet attributed to Western Iran, size + 16 feet 4 inches by 11 feet 2 inches, and purchased by the + Metropolitan Museum of Art, N. Y.</p> + </td> + + <td class="right10s">19,600</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="left90"> + <p class="indent">Carpet similar to the Mosque carpet of + Ardebil, XVI Century, size 23 feet 11 inches by 13 feet 5 + inches</p> + </td> + + <td class="right10s">27,000</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p>The value of rugs over fifty years of age but not sufficiently + old to belong to the antique class also depends as much on the + technique of weave, drawing, colouring, and rarity as on the + size; yet even this must be taken into consideration. In + proportion to their size the most expensive of these rugs are the + Kirmans, Sehnas, and Niris from Persia; the Ghiordes and Ladiks + from Asia Minor; the Daghestans and Kabistans from Caucasia; and + the Royal Bokharas and Yomuds from Central Asia. Considering both + utility and attractiveness the least expensive are probably the + Sarabends and Mosuls from the Persian group, the Yuruks from Asia + Minor, Kazaks and Tcherkess from Caucasia, and Afghans + and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id= + "Page_305">305</a></span> Beluchistans from Central Asia. As is + the case with antique carpets, the prices of all old rugs in good + condition are steadily advancing.</p> + + <p>There is likewise a tendency for the prices of modern rugs to + increase with each year, since on account of the gradual opening + of Oriental countries to the markets of the world, and the + greater demand for rugs, the wages of weavers are increasing. + Some of them, as the Tabriz, Gorevans, Kermanshahs, Muskabads, + Mahals, Sarouks, and Kashans, are now made almost exclusively + under the direction of the work-house system, and are sold at + prices that fluctuate but slightly. But in a short time the + prices of all of them will doubtless be higher.</p> + + <p>When a rug of carpet size is required, the Kermanshahs are + generally preferred on account of their soft colouring and + refined patterns, that harmonise with the furnishings of most + reception rooms. Less expensive and more showy are the Gorevans, + which are suitable for halls or dining rooms. In the Afghans, + which are splendid rugs for a den, are combined durability with a + moderate price. Within recent years some of the Indian rugs, as + the Amritsars and Lahores, have been growing in favour, as they + not only have good colours, artistic patterns, and exceedingly + good texture, but are reasonable in price. Of smaller rugs + required both for ornament and use, the Shiraz, Feraghan, Mosul, + Bergamo, Tcherkess, Bokhara, and Beluchistan are desirable.</p> + + <p>As is the case with other works of art, so much deception can + be practised in the sale of rugs that a purchaser cannot use too + much circumspection. Sometimes through ignorance or with + intention, a dealer will declare that the wool of a rug which has + been coloured with aniline dyes has been coloured with vegetable + dyes only; that a rug washed with acid has matured naturally; + that a new rug which has been artificially worn almost to the + knot is an antique; or that a particular rug belongs to the class + desired, as where a Shirvan is offered for a Shiraz or a Bijar + for a Bergamo, which ordinarily are worth much more. It is, + accordingly, discreet to buy only of such firms as have a + reputation which is above reproach; and if for any reason it is + difficult to learn the standing of a firm, the purchaser would do + well to make an effort to test its reliability by inquiring about + the qualities of some class of rugs with which he is familiar + before purchasing others; and if there appears to be any + intention to deceive, he should at once look elsewhere. In any + event, he should take a guarantee that the<span class= + 'pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">306</a></span> rug + purchased is as represented. Firms that have gained an honourable + reputation by honest dealing deserve the patronage of the public, + and will always be found ready to make restitution if any mistake + has been made.</p> + + <p>At times, the best rugs may be bought at auctions and at the + fairest prices. Auctions such as the Yerkes, where estates are + being closed or where firms are dissolved, occasionally occur, + when every opportunity is given the purchaser to thoroughly + examine in advance pieces which are sold without reservation to + the highest bidder. On such occasions, rare pieces are sometimes + bought at very moderate prices. But as a rule, unless the + purchaser is a good judge and has previously carefully examined a + coveted piece in broad daylight, it is better not to buy at + auctions. During the sale it is impossible to properly examine a + rug. The glare of electric light thrown upon it gives a too + favourable impression of its beauty. The competitive bids of + other real or fictitious purchasers and the words of the + auctioneer too often lead beyond the dictates of good judgment. + At such times one would do well to remember the old words + <i>caveat emptor</i>.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTES</h4> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_1"><span class="label">1</span></a> The Yerkes + sale.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_2"><span class="label">2</span></a> Stewart Dix, in + “Arts of Old Japan.”</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_3"><span class="label">3</span></a> The influence of + the physical aspects of a country on its art as expressed in + architecture is nowhere more clearly shown than in Egypt, and + there is little doubt that, likewise, the character of the + native rugs was influenced by the spirit of the sluggish Nile + and the boundless desert wastes. But as Egypt long ago ceased + to be a rug-producing country, and none of its ancient rugs + remain, it will only be briefly referred to in this work, + though symbolic designs which had their origin there during the + Caliphate or even earlier were adopted by foreign weavers and + occasionally appear with modified form in modern rugs.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_4" id="Footnote_4"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_4"><span class="label">4</span></a> It is said that + he carried Persian weavers as captives to Asia Minor and + Constantinople.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_5" id="Footnote_5"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_5"><span class="label">5</span></a> This is a + product of flowers of the genus <i>Delphinum</i> that grows in + the Himalayas. It is also obtained as a powder from + Afghanistan.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_6" id="Footnote_6"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_6"><span class="label">6</span></a> In a few rare + instances a knot is tied to four threads of warp.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_7" id="Footnote_7"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_7"><span class="label">7</span></a> Most Sehna knots + are right-hand knots, but the Sehna knots of a large proportion + of Khorassan rugs are left-hand knots.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_8" id="Footnote_8"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_8"><span class="label">8</span></a> As far as the + writer is aware, no one has hitherto called attention to the + many precise distinctions there are in weaving, and to the fact + that each class of rugs follows a distinct type of its own. For + this reason this branch of the subject is treated more fully + than would otherwise be necessary.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_9" id="Footnote_9"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_9"><span class="label">9</span></a> A few of the + weavers about Gozene in Asia Minor make rugs with a double + foundation, in which a single thread of coarse weft crosses + twice between parallel rows of threads of warp. Only rarely is + this method followed in other districts.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_10" id="Footnote_10"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_10"><span class="label">10</span></a> Sir George + Birdwood has made the statement that “A deep and + complicate symbolism, originating in Babylonia and possibly in + India, pervades every denomination of Oriental carpet. Thus the + carpet itself prefigures space and eternity, and the general + pattern or filling, as it is technically termed, the fleeting, + finite universe of animated beauty. Every colour has its + significance; and the design, whether mythological or natural, + human, bestial, or floral, has its hidden meaning. Even the + representatives of men hunting wild beasts have their special + indications. So have the natural flowers of Persia their + symbolism, wherever they are introduced, generally following + that of their colours. The very irregularities either in + drawing or colouring, to be observed in almost every Oriental + carpet, and invariably in Turkoman carpets, are seldom + accidental, the usual deliberate intention being to avert the + evil eye and insure good luck.”</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_11" id="Footnote_11"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_11"><span class="label">11</span></a> The equivalent + of 106 feet square.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_12" id="Footnote_12"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_12"><span class="label">12</span></a> See his work, + “The Holy Carpet of the Mosque at Ardebil.”</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_13" id="Footnote_13"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_13"><span class="label">13</span></a> Ismael + reigned, 1502-1524; Tamasp reigned, 1524-1576.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_14" id="Footnote_14"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_14"><span class="label">14</span></a> 1586-1628.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_15" id="Footnote_15"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_15"><span class="label">15</span></a> These will be + considered in a later chapter.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_16" id="Footnote_16"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_16"><span class="label">16</span></a> This group + includes both antique and modern rugs.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_17" id="Footnote_17"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_17"><span class="label">17</span></a> Robert Kerr + Porter, a well-known traveller, stated that the floor of the + audience hall of the governor at Tabriz, whom he visited in + 1818, “was entirely overspread with Herat carpets, those + of that manufacture being the richest that can be + made.”</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_18" id="Footnote_18"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_18"><span class="label">18</span></a> By “Type + Characteristics” is meant the characteristics of such + types of the class as are most frequently seen. There are + exceptions to these types.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_19" id="Footnote_19"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_19"><span class="label">19</span></a> As this is the + case with most rugs, only the exceptions to this feature will + be noticed in the type characteristics of other classes.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_20" id="Footnote_20"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_20"><span class="label">20</span></a> Ibn + Batutah.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_21" id="Footnote_21"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_21"><span class="label">21</span></a> Of modern + Ispahans.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_22" id="Footnote_22"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_22"><span class="label">22</span></a> + “Burlington Magazine,” December, 1909.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_23" id="Footnote_23"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_23"><span class="label">23</span></a> In + “Industrial Arts of India.”</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_24" id="Footnote_24"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_24"><span class="label">24</span></a> Sidney + Churchill in the Imperial Vienna Book says that “the dyes + of Sultanabad have perhaps the most extensive colour scheme in + Persia.”</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_25" id="Footnote_25"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_25"><span class="label">25</span></a> + “Industrial Arts of India.”</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_26" id="Footnote_26"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_26"><span class="label">26</span></a> Mrs. Elizabeth + Bishop in “Journeys in Persia and Kurdistan.”</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_27" id="Footnote_27"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_27"><span class="label">27</span></a> Encyclopedia + Britannica.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_28" id="Footnote_28"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_28"><span class="label">28</span></a> It is also to + be noted that within the last few years large numbers of pieces + bearing resemblance to old Oriental rugs have been woven about + Constantinople.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_29" id="Footnote_29"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_29"><span class="label">29</span></a> One of the + most interesting is at Sivas, where are the remains of a most + beautiful Seljuk gateway, with architectural lines that might + well have been taken for a weaver’s model. As in many + prayer rugs, the engaged columns support a high arch over which + a panel rests above a figured spandrel. The outlines of each of + these parts suggest most forcibly the drawing of the prayer + rug, and the resemblance is carried even further; for + corresponding with the border stripes is the chiselled masonry + that once rested above the panel and still extends to the foot + of the entrance at each side of the arch.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_30" id="Footnote_30"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_30"><span class="label">30</span></a> One of these + is represented in Dr. Bode’s “Knupfteppiche,” + where it appears as a secondary stripe.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_31" id="Footnote_31"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_31"><span class="label">31</span></a> An + intermediate pattern suggested by each is found in an old Asia + Minor piece owned by Dr. Bode.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_32" id="Footnote_32"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_32"><span class="label">32</span></a> A. Bogolubow, + in his excellent work “Tapis de l’Asie + Centrale,” divides the Transcaspian Turkomans into two + principal groups, the Salors and Yomuds, each of which includes + sub-groups. These are again divisible into many tribes, almost + all of whom weave. As their rugs, though resembling one + another, show different characteristics, they might properly be + separated into numerous classes; but since only a few of them + are known in this country, they alone will be described.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_33" id="Footnote_33"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_33"><span class="label">33</span></a> “Desert + of Red Sands.”</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_34" id="Footnote_34"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_34"><span class="label">34</span></a> A tent in + which an average of five people live.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_35" id="Footnote_35"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_35"><span class="label">35</span></a> In + “Industrial Arts of India.”</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_36" id="Footnote_36"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_36"><span class="label">36</span></a> Dr. + Birdwood.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_37" id="Footnote_37"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_37"><span class="label">37</span></a> Sometimes + Sehna knot.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_38" id="Footnote_38"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_38"><span class="label">38</span></a> Sometimes one + thread of warp to each knot is doubled under the other.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_39" id="Footnote_39"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_39"><span class="label">39</span></a> Rarely Iran, + Feraghan, Mosul, and Kurdistan.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_40" id="Footnote_40"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_40"><span class="label">40</span></a> It is stated + that in the short space of a few weeks he created valuable + antique porcelains to present to his noble friends by placing + recent copies of old specimens in a vessel containing very + greasy soup, where they were duly boiled for a month, and after + that placing them in the “foulest drain of the + neighbourhood,” where they remained until seasoned.</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_41" id="Footnote_41"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_41"><span class="label">41</span></a> In + “Across Coveted Lands, 1903.”</p> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_42" id="Footnote_42"></a><a href= + "#FNanchor_42"><span class="label">42</span></a> All references + of an unimportant character are indicated by the page number + only.</p> + </div> + + <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id= + "Page_309">307<br /> + 308<br /> + 309</a></span></p> + + <h3>INDEX<a name="FNanchor_42" id="FNanchor_42"></a><a href= + "#Footnote_42" class="fnanchor">42</a></h3> + + <ul class="IX"> + <li><span style= + "margin-left: 12em; margin-top: 1.25em; margin-bottom: .75em;">A</span></li> + + <li>Abbas, Shah, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_89"> + 89</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href= + "#Page_211">211</a>; + + <ul> + <li>pattern named after, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>;</li> + + <li>sent artisans to India, <a href= + "#Page_111">111</a>;</li> + + <li>rug industry declined after death of, <a href= + "#Page_112">112</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Abraham, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href= + "#Page_31">31</a>.</li> + + <li>Acacia used as a dye, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href= + "#Page_41">41</a>.</li> + + <li>Accadians, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li> + + <li>Adighies, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li> + + <li>Afghan rugs, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, <a href= + "#Page_304">304</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>geometric designs of, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>;</li> + + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, + <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, + <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href= + "#Page_235">235</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>, <a href= + "#Page_244">244</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Afghan tribes, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li> + + <li>Afghanistan, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href= + "#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>, <a href= + "#Page_243">243</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>; + + <ul> + <li>camel’s wool of, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Afshar rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_286">286</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_51">51</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Aga Mohammed Khan pillaged Kirman, <a href= + "#Page_113">113</a>.</li> + + <li>Agamemnon, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</li> + + <li>Agra, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href= + "#Page_257">257</a>.</li> + + <li>Agra rugs described, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li> + + <li>Akbar, Shah, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>; + + <ul> + <li>received assistance from Shah Abbas, <a href= + "#Page_29">29</a>;</li> + + <li>established rug weaving at Lahore, <a href= + "#Page_94">94</a>;</li> + + <li>imported Persian weavers, <a href= + "#Page_253">253</a>;</li> + + <li>carpet factory of, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Ak-Hissar, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</li> + + <li>Ak-Hissar rugs, 101. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href= + "#Page_176">176</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Ak-kal, oasis of, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</li> + + <li>Albana, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li> + + <li>Alexander the Great, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, + <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>; + + <ul> + <li>destroyed Shiraz, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>;</li> + + <li>built walls at Derbend, <a href= + "#Page_204">204</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Alhambra, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</li> + + <li>Ali Riza, Imam, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</li> + + <li>Allahabad, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li> + + <li>Allahabad rugs described, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li> + + <li>Altai Mts., <a href="#Page_29">29</a>; + + <ul> + <li>original home of the Turks, <a href= + "#Page_26">26</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Altman, Benjamin, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</li> + + <li>Alum, used as a mordant, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, + <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</li> + + <li>Amritsar, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href= + "#Page_258">258</a>.</li> + + <li>Amritsar rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_257">257</a>, 305. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Amu Daria. _See_ Oxus river.</li> + + <li>Anatolia, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_182"> + 182</a>; + + <ul> + <li>the “Land of the Rising Sun,” <a href= + "#Page_187">187</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Anatolian rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href= + "#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_63">63</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href= + "#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Angora, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href= + "#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>; + + <ul> + <li>goat’s wool, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Anilines. _See_ Dyes.</li> + + <li>Animal carpets, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href= + "#Page_87">87</a>.</li> + + <li>Anjuman Industrial Art School, <a href= + "#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Anoschar, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</li> + + <li>Anti-Taurus Mts., <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href= + "#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li> + + <li>Arabia, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href= + "#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</li> + + <li>Arabic features in rugs, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>; + + <ul> + <li>notation, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>;</li> + + <li>symbolism in Western Kurdistan rugs, <a href= + "#Page_141">141</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Arabs, in Persia, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>; + + <ul> + <li>overran Turkestan, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Ararat, Mt., <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href= + "#Page_219">219</a>.</li> + + <li>Aras river, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href= + "#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> + + <li>Ardebil, Persian capital under Ismael, <a href="#Page_28"> + 28</a>; + + <ul> + <li>mosque of, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href= + "#Page_127">127</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Ardebil carpet, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>;</li> + + <li>described, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href= + "#Page_84">84</a>.</li> + + <li>Ardelan district, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href= + "#Page_153">153</a>.</li> + + <li>Armenia, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>; + + <ul> + <li>origin of some Caucasian border stripes of, <a href= + "#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href= + "#Page_229">229</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Armenian rugs, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href= + "#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href= + "#Page_220">220</a>; + + <ul> + <li>designs derived from, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, + <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, + <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>, + <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Armenians in Persia, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>;<ul> + + <li>in Mosul, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li></ul></li> + + <li>Artaxerxes, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li> + + <li>Aryan races, in India, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>; + + <ul> + <li>in Persia, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>;</li> + + <li>in Caucasia, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>;</li> + + <li>in Turkestan, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>;</li> + + <li>floral ornamentation employed by, <a href= + "#Page_62">62</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Asburg used as a dye, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</li> + + <li>Astrabad, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li> + + <li>Astrakan, market for Bokharas, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>; + + <ul> + <li>for caravans from Khiva, <a href= + "#Page_240">240</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Auctions, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>.</li> + + <li>Ayyampet, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Azerbijan province, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href= + "#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href= + "#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href= + "#Page_153">153</a>.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">B</span></li> + + <li>Baber, Shah, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.</li> + + <li>Babylon, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href= + "#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href= + "#Page_102">102</a>, 103. + + <ul> + <li>Bagdad, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href= + "#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>;</li> + + <li>carpets covering the floors of, <a href= + "#Page_25">25</a>;</li> + + <li>captured by Tartars, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li> + + <li>by Solyman the Magnificent, <a href= + "#Page_28">28</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Bajazet, defeated by Tamerlane, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Karaman subject to, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Bakshis rugs described, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> + + <li>Baku, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href= + "#Page_214">214</a>.</li> + + <li>Baku rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_292">292</a>; + + <ul> + <li>pear design in, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href= + "#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href= + "#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href= + "#Page_211">211</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Bangalore, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href= + "#Page_261">261</a>.</li> + + <li>Bangalore rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, 259. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Barbarossa, Frederic, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</li> + + <li>Bardini, Stefano, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</li> + + <li>Bastard teak used as a dye, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li> + + <li>Bedouins, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li> + + <li>Belshazzar, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.</li> + + <li>Beluches, in Kirman, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>; + + <ul> + <li>untamed tribes of, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Beluchistan, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li> + + <li>Beluchistan rugs, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href= + "#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, <a href= + "#Page_301">301</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, + <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>geometric designs in, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>;</li> + + <li>S design in, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</li> + + <li>zigzag line in, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>;</li> + + <li>reciprocal trefoil in, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, + <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>, <a href= + "#Page_249">249</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Beni-Hassan, tombs of, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li> + + <li>Bergamo rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, + <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, + <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_63">63</a>;</li> + + <li>prevailing colour tone of, <a href= + "#Page_178">178</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href= + "#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Berlin gallery, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</li> + + <li>Beshire rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>S design in, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</li> + + <li>zigzag line in, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Bibikabad, town of, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</li> + + <li>Bibikabad rugs described, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> + + <li>Bijar, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href= + "#Page_136">136</a>.</li> + + <li>Bijar rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>, <a href= + "#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>, <a href= + "#Page_302">302</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, + <a href="#Page_52">52</a>;</li> + + <li>compared with Persian-Kurdistans and Mosuls, <a href= + "#Page_143">143</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href= + "#Page_137">137</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href= + "#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Birbul’s blue used as a dye, <a href= + "#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + + <li>Bird figures in rugs. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Birdwood, Sir George, cited, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, + <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href= + "#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>;<ul> + + <li>quoted, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href= + "#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>, <a href= + "#Page_258">258</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href= + "#Page_260">260</a>.</li></ul></li> + + <li>Birjand, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</li> + + <li>Bishop, Mrs. I. B., quoted, <a href= + "#Page_138">138</a>.</li> + + <li>Bode, Dr. Wm., cited, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href= + "#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> + + <li>Bogolubow, A., cited, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li> + + <li>Böhler, J., cited, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</li> + + <li>Bokhara, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_110"> + 110</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>; + + <ul> + <li>captured by Genghis Khan, <a href= + "#Page_26">26</a>;</li> + + <li>the “Noble,” <a href= + "#Page_236">236</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Bokhara rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_243">243</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>goat’s hair in, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>;</li> + + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, + <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Bokhara, Princess, rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, + <a href="#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, + <a href="#Page_293">293</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>, <a href= + "#Page_238">238</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href= + "#Page_251">251</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Bokhara, Royal, rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, + <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>, + <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, + <a href="#Page_243">243</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>, + <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>; + + <ul> + <li>compared with Princess, <a href= + "#Page_237">237</a>;</li> + + <li>the arch compared with that of Tekkes, <a href= + "#Page_239">239</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href= + "#Page_236">236</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href= + "#Page_251">251</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Border stripes, defined, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Persian, described, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, + <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, + <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, <a href= + "#Page_160">160</a>;</li> + + <li>Asia Minor, described, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, + <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, + <a href="#Page_195">195</a>;</li> + + <li>Caucasian, described, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, + <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, + <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, + <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href= + "#Page_231">231</a>;</li> + + <li>Central Asiatic, described, <a href= + "#Page_250">250</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>;</li> + + <li>Chinese, described, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>, + <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href= + "#Page_275">275</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Boston Museum of Fine Arts, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.</li> + + <li>Brahoes, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li> + + <li>British Museum, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li> + + <li>Broussa, 181. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Buckthorns used as a dye, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li> + + <li>Buddhism, influence on Asiatic art, <a href= + "#Page_16">16</a>; + + <ul> + <li>on symbolism, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>;</li> + + <li>the lotus an emblem of, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Buddhist emblems, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>, <a href= + "#Page_274">274</a>.</li> + + <li>Burujird, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li> + + <li>Burujird rugs described, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li> + + <li>Butea fondosa used as a dye, <a href= + "#Page_39">39</a>.</li> + + <li>Butti lac used as a dye, 39.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">C</span></li> + + <li>Cæsarea. _See_ Kaisariyeh.</li> + + <li>Caïcus valley, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</li> + + <li>Cairo, Caliphs in, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Mecca rugs sold in, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Caliphate, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href= + "#Page_76">76</a>.</li> + + <li>Caliphs, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href= + "#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href= + "#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href= + "#Page_115">115</a>; + + <ul> + <li>prayer rugs in time of, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>;</li> + + <li>Ispahan under, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>;</li> + + <li>Kirman rugs in palaces of, <a href= + "#Page_113">113</a>;</li> + + <li>Tabriz rugs known in days of, <a href= + "#Page_145">145</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Caliph Hisham, carpet of, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</li> + + <li>Camel’s hair. _See_ Wool.</li> + + <li>Carduchis, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</li> + + <li>Caria. _See_ Melez.</li> + + <li>Chaldees, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>; + + <ul> + <li>symbolism derived from, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Chardin cited, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</li> + + <li>Charles Martel, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</li> + + <li>Chehel Sutoon, enormous carpet of, <a href= + "#Page_112">112</a>.</li> + + <li>Che-Hwang-te, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.</li> + + <li>Chichi rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>Kazaks contrasted with, <a href= + "#Page_220">220</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href= + "#Page_208">208</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href= + "#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Chinese fret, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href= + "#Page_165">165</a>; + + <ul> + <li>influence, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>;</li> + + <li>medallions, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>, <a href= + "#Page_273">273</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Chosroes I, “Spring of Chosroes” carpet made + for, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</li> + + <li>Chunam wool, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>, <a href= + "#Page_301">301</a>.</li> + + <li>Churchill, Sidney, A. T., quoted, <a href= + "#Page_131">131</a>.</li> + + <li>Cinnabar used as a dye, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href= + "#Page_41">41</a>.</li> + + <li>Circassians. _See_ Tcherkess.</li> + + <li>Clark, Sir Purdon, cited, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</li> + + <li>Clotilde Clam-Gallas, Countess, cited, <a href= + "#Page_80">80</a>.</li> + + <li>Coccus cacti used as a dye, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li> + + <li>Coccus ilicus used as a dye, <a href= + "#Page_38">38</a>.</li> + + <li>Coccus lacca used as a dye, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li> + + <li>Cochineal used as a dye, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li> + + <li>Cochran, Wm. Alexander Smith, <a href= + "#Page_86">86</a>.</li> + + <li>Coconada, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Colour, the artistic value of, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>; + + <ul> + <li>the symbolism of, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href= + "#Page_72">72</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Cone design. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Constantinople, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href= + "#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href= + "#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href= + "#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Persian weavers taken to, <a href= + "#Page_28">28</a>;</li> + + <li>silk carpets sent to Sultan of, <a href= + "#Page_87">87</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Conventions in art, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> + + <li>Cordova, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</li> + + <li>Cossacks, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>, <a href= + "#Page_219">219</a>.</li> + + <li>Cotton, used in weaving <a href="#Page_30">30</a>; + + <ul> + <li>mercerized, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Cow’s hair used in weaving, <a href= + "#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li> + + <li>Crocus used as a dye, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li> + + <li>Crœsus, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li> + + <li>Crown jewel design. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Ctesiphon, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href= + "#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li> + + <li>Cufic lettering, in Altman carpet, <a href= + "#Page_85">85</a>; + + <ul> + <li>in borders of Asia Minor and Caucasian rugs, <a href= + "#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href= + "#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>;</li> + + <li>reputed inventor of, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Cupressus sempervirens used as a dye, <a href= + "#Page_41">41</a>.</li> + + <li>Curcuma used as a dye, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li> + + <li>Cyrus, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href= + "#Page_115">115</a>, 181; + + <ul> + <li>Turkestan overrun by, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">D</span></li> + + <li>Daghestan, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href= + "#Page_206">206</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li> + + <li>Daghestan rugs, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href= + "#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href= + "#Page_216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href= + "#Page_292">292</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, <a href= + "#Page_304">304</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, + <a href="#Page_54">54</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>effulgent stars in, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;</li> + + <li>Cufic borders of, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>;</li> + + <li>Bergamo prayer arch compared with that of, <a href= + "#Page_167">167</a>;</li> + + <li>weave of Kabistans compared with that of, <a href= + "#Page_201">201</a>;</li> + + <li>designs in, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>;</li> + + <li>colour scheme of Shirvans compared with that of, + <a href="#Page_214">214</a>;</li> + + <li>mosaic drawing of, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href= + "#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href= + "#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href= + "#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Daghestan, Royal, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li> + + <li>Damascus, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>; + + <ul> + <li>antique carpets of, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>;</li> + + <li>Mecca rugs sold in, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Dari, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>, <a href= + "#Page_257">257</a>.</li> + + <li>Darius, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li> + + <li>Dekkan, rugs woven in interior of, <a href= + "#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Delhi, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href= + "#Page_110">110</a>.</li> + + <li>Demirdji, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href= + "#Page_176">176</a>.</li> + + <li>Demirdji rugs described, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li> + + <li>Deodorus, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li> + + <li>Dera Ghazi Khan, 280; Kilims, <a href= + "#Page_281">281</a>.</li> + + <li>Derbend, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href= + "#Page_204">204</a>.</li> + + <li>Derbend rugs described, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>, + <a href="#Page_205">205</a>; + + <ul> + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Designs, geometric, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href= + "#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>; + + <ul> + <li>floral, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href= + "#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href= + "#Page_185">185</a>;</li> + + <li>almond, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;</li> + + <li>animal, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href= + "#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href= + "#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href= + "#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href= + "#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href= + "#Page_211">211</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href= + "#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>;</li> + + <li>antilope, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;</li> + + <li>arabesques, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href= + "#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href= + "#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href= + "#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href= + "#Page_175">175</a>;</li> + + <li>barber-pole, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href= + "#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href= + "#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href= + "#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href= + "#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, <a href= + "#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>;</li> + + <li>bat, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href= + "#Page_266">266</a>;</li> + + <li>birds, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href= + "#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href= + "#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href= + "#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href= + "#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href= + "#Page_270">270</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>;</li> + + <li>bird of paradise, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;</li> + + <li>butterfly, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href= + "#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href= + "#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>;</li> + + <li>camel, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;</li> + + <li>chessboard, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>;</li> + + <li>chrysanthemum, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>;</li> + + <li>cloud-band, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href= + "#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href= + "#Page_265">265</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>;</li> + + <li>cocos, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>;</li> + + <li>comb, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href= + "#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href= + "#Page_221">221</a>;</li> + + <li>conch, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>;</li> + + <li>cone, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;</li> + + <li>crab, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;</li> + + <li>cross, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href= + "#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, <a href= + "#Page_237">237</a>;</li> + + <li>crown jewel, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href= + "#Page_112">112</a>;</li> + + <li>daisy, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href= + "#Page_69">69</a>;</li> + + <li>diamond, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href= + "#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href= + "#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href= + "#Page_203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href= + "#Page_223">223</a>;</li> + + <li>djinni, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;</li> + + <li>dog, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href= + "#Page_213">213</a>;</li> + + <li>dragon, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href= + "#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href= + "#Page_268">268</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>, <a href= + "#Page_274">274</a>;</li> + + <li>dragon and phoenix, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>;</li> + + <li>duck, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href= + "#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>;</li> + + <li>eagle, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;</li> + + <li>Euphrates flower, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href= + "#Page_189">189</a>;</li> + + <li>fish, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href= + "#Page_246">246</a>;</li> + + <li>fung-kwang, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>;</li> + + <li>fungus, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>;</li> + + <li>gazelle, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>;</li> + + <li>goat, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;</li> + + <li>Joo-e, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>, <a href= + "#Page_274">274</a>;</li> + + <li>key-pattern, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href= + "#Page_267">267</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>;</li> + + <li>knot of destiny, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>;</li> + + <li>ky-lin, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>;</li> + + <li>lamp, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href= + "#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>;</li> + + <li>latch-hook, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href= + "#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href= + "#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href= + "#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href= + "#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href= + "#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, + <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, + <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>, + <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, + <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>, + <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, + <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>, + <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>, + <a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>, + <a href="#Page_278">278</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>, + <a href="#Page_288">288</a>;</li> + + <li>lily, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href= + "#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href= + "#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href= + "#Page_230">230</a>;</li> + + <li>lion, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href= + "#Page_95">95</a>;</li> + + <li>lion-dog, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>;</li> + + <li>lotus, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href= + "#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href= + "#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>;</li> + + <li>lozenge, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href= + "#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href= + "#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href= + "#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href= + "#Page_249">249</a>;</li> + + <li>lyre, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>;</li> + + <li>mango, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;</li> + + <li>medallion, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href= + "#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href= + "#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href= + "#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href= + "#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href= + "#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href= + "#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href= + "#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href= + "#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href= + "#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href= + "#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href= + "#Page_214">214</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href= + "#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>, <a href= + "#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>, <a href= + "#Page_272">272</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>;</li> + + <li>moon, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href= + "#Page_69">69</a>;</li> + + <li>octagonal disc, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href= + "#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href= + "#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href= + "#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, 275;</li> + + <li>palm, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;</li> + + <li>palmette, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href= + "#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href= + "#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href= + "#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href= + "#Page_177">177</a>;</li> + + <li>peacock, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;</li> + + <li>pear, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href= + "#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href= + "#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href= + "#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href= + "#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href= + "#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href= + "#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href= + "#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>, <a href= + "#Page_219">219</a>;</li> + + <li>peony, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href= + "#Page_270">270</a>;</li> + + <li>phœnix, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;</li> + + <li>pole-medallion, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href= + "#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>;</li> + + <li>pomegranate, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href= + "#Page_167">167</a>;</li> + + <li>reciprocal sawtooth, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, + <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, + <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, + <a href="#Page_231">231</a>;</li> + + <li>reciprocal trefoil, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, + <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, + <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, + <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, + <a href="#Page_249">249</a>;</li> + + <li>river loop, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;</li> + + <li>rose, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href= + "#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href= + "#Page_193">193</a>;</li> + + <li>rosette, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href= + "#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href= + "#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href= + "#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href= + "#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href= + "#Page_221">221</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href= + "#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href= + "#Page_292">292</a>;</li> + + <li>running latch-hook, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href= + "#Page_242">242</a>;</li> + + <li>sacred mountain, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>;</li> + + <li>scorpion, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;</li> + + <li>S design, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href= + "#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href= + "#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href= + "#Page_206">206</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href= + "#Page_211">211</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href= + "#Page_220">220</a>;</li> + + <li>serpent, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;</li> + + <li>serrated leaf and wine cup, <a href= + "#Page_64">64</a>;</li> + + <li>shield of David, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>;</li> + + <li>Shou, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href= + "#Page_272">272</a>;</li> + + <li>star, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href= + "#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href= + "#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href= + "#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href= + "#Page_203">203</a>;</li> + + <li>effulgent star, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href= + "#Page_211">211</a>;</li> + + <li>eight-pointed star, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, + <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, + <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, + <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, + <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, + <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, + <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, + <a href="#Page_244">244</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, + <a href="#Page_250">250</a>;</li> + + <li>stork, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href= + "#Page_266">266</a>;</li> + + <li>sun, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href= + "#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>;</li> + + <li>sunburst, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href= + "#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>;</li> + + <li>sunflower, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href= + "#Page_271">271</a>;</li> + + <li>swastika, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href= + "#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href= + "#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href= + "#Page_248">248</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>, <a href= + "#Page_273">273</a>;</li> + + <li>tarantula, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href= + "#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href= + "#Page_221">221</a>;</li> + + <li>tiger, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>;</li> + + <li>tree, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>;</li> + + <li>tree of life, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href= + "#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href= + "#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href= + "#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>;</li> + + <li>tri-cleft leaf, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href= + "#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href= + "#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href= + "#Page_211">211</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href= + "#Page_226">226</a>;</li> + + <li>turtle, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;</li> + + <li>vandyke, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href= + "#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href= + "#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>;</li> + + <li>wheel of law, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>;</li> + + <li>zigzag line, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href= + "#Page_67">67</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Diaper pattern, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href= + "#Page_263">263</a>.</li> + + <li>Diarbekr, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li> + + <li>Die Persische NadelmalereiSusandschird, <a href= + "#Page_76">76</a>.</li> + + <li>Distaff, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.</li> + + <li>Dix, Stewart, quoted, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> + + <li>Djinni. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Djushaghan. _See_ Joshaghan.</li> + + <li>Domenico di Bartolo, painting of, <a href= + "#Page_92">92</a>.</li> + + <li>Dragon and Phoenix carpet, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, + <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + + <li>Dragon carpets, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href= + "#Page_298">298</a>.</li> + + <li>Dravidians, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.</li> + + <li>Dyeing, 37; process of, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href= + "#Page_43">43</a>.</li> + + <li>Dyes, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>; + + <ul> + <li>of Sultanabad, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>;</li> + + <li>of Oushak, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>;</li> + + <li>of Amritsar rugs, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>;</li> + + <li>Aniline dyes introduced into India, <a href= + "#Page_254">254</a>;</li> + + <li>into China, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>;</li> + + <li>objection to, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>;</li> + + <li>how to distinguish, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, + <a href="#Page_300">300</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">E</span></li> + + <li>East India Company, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> + + <li>Ecbatana, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href= + "#Page_122">122</a>.</li> + + <li>Elburz Mts., <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li> + + <li>Eleanor, Queen, Spanish rugs sent to, <a href= + "#Page_25">25</a>.</li> + + <li>Elizabeth, Queen, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li> + + <li>Elizabethpol, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> + + <li>Ellore, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href= + "#Page_260">260</a>.</li> + + <li>Ellore rugs described, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li> + + <li>El Mirz li alla, Caliph, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</li> + + <li>Elwund Mt., <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href= + "#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li> + + <li>Encyclopedia Britannica quoted, <a href= + "#Page_140">140</a>.</li> + + <li>Ends, finish of, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.</li> + + <li>Esther, Queen, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li> + + <li>Evil eye, superstition of, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, + 168.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">F</span></li> + + <li>Fairs, Oriental, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</li> + + <li>Farsistan, wool of, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>; + + <ul> + <li>antique carpets from Shiraz, capital of, <a href= + "#Page_115">115</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Fatimid Caliphs, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li> + + <li>Feraghan district, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href= + "#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li> + + <li>Feraghan rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href= + "#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href= + "#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href= + "#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, + <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;</li> + + <li>small designs in, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>turtle border of, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>;</li> + + <li>Guli Hinnai pattern of, <a href= + "#Page_105">105</a>;</li> + + <li>pattern of Herat rugs compared with that of, <a href= + "#Page_106">106</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href= + "#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href= + "#Page_159">159</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Filling, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.</li> + + <li>Firdousi, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</li> + + <li>Fish pattern. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Flame design. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Flax used in weaving, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href= + "#Page_33">33</a>.</li> + + <li>Floral design. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Friedhofteppiche, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">G</span></li> + + <li>Gall nuts used as a dye, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li> + + <li>Ganges river, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href= + "#Page_258">258</a>.</li> + + <li>Ganja. _See_ Gengha.</li> + + <li>Gehrous district, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</li> + + <li>Gengha, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> + + <li>Gengha rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, + <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href= + "#Page_225">225</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Genghis Khan, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href= + "#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href= + "#Page_234">234</a>.</li> + + <li>Geok Teppe, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</li> + + <li>Geometric pattern. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Georgian pattern, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href= + "#Page_215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href= + "#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li> + + <li>Ghiordes, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href= + "#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href= + "#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li> + + <li>Ghiordes rugs, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href= + "#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href= + "#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href= + "#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_63">63</a>;</li> + + <li>Karabaghs compared with, <a href= + "#Page_225">225</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href= + "#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href= + "#Page_171">171</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href= + "#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href= + "#Page_195">195</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Gibbon cited, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</li> + + <li>Gilan, cloud-band in antique carpets of, <a href= + "#Page_67">67</a>.</li> + + <li>Girdler’s Company, India carpet presented to, + <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> + + <li>Goat’s hair. _See_ Wool.</li> + + <li>Gobi desert, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href= + "#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li> + + <li>Goodyear, Prof., cited, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</li> + + <li>Gorevan rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>, <a href= + "#Page_287">287</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href= + "#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_51">51</a>;</li> + + <li>turtle border of, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>;</li> + + <li>patterns of Muskabads resembling those of, <a href= + "#Page_131">131</a>;</li> + + <li>relation of Bakshis rugs to, <a href= + "#Page_148">148</a>;</li> + + <li>relation of Herez rugs to, <a href= + "#Page_149">149</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href= + "#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href= + "#Page_158">158</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Gotcha lake, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> + + <li>Gozene, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li> + + <li>Gozene rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_54">54</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>“Grain of rice” pattern in Chinese rugs, + <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li> + + <li>Granada, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</li> + + <li>Guebres, in Kirman, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>; + + <ul> + <li>temple at Baku of, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Guli Hinnai pattern, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, + <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustrated, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Gulistan rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Gulistan treaty, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li> + + <li>Gyze, Georg, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">H</span></li> + + <li>Hafiz, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</li> + + <li>Hair, of cow, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>;<ul> + <li>of horse, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li></ul></li> + + <li>Hamadan, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href= + "#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href= + "#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> + + <li>Hamadan rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, + <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, + <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;</li> + + <li>similarity of some Irans to, <a href= + "#Page_125">125</a>;</li> + + <li>similarity of Karajes to, <a href= + "#Page_144">144</a>;</li> + + <li>similarity of weave of Kara-Geuz rugs to, <a href= + "#Page_155">155</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href= + "#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href= + "#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Hang Chow, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li> + + <li>Harris, Henry T., quoted, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, + <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li> + + <li>Havell, E. B., cited, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li> + + <li>Hegira, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li> + + <li>Hemp used in weaving, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href= + "#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>, <a href= + "#Page_263">263</a>.</li> + + <li>Herat, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href= + "#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>, <a href= + "#Page_285">285</a>; + + <ul> + <li>captured by Nadir Shah, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>;</li> + + <li>so-called Ispahans probably made at, <a href= + "#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Herat rugs, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_89"> + 89</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, + <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;</li> + + <li>cloud-band in antique rugs of, <a href= + "#Page_67">67</a>;</li> + + <li>ground colour of, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>;</li> + + <li>influence on Indian weaving of, <a href= + "#Page_255">255</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href= + "#Page_106">106</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Herati pattern, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href= + "#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href= + "#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href= + "#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href= + "#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href= + "#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href= + "#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href= + "#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, + <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, + <a href="#Page_201">201</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustrated, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Hereke, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</li> + + <li>Hereke rugs described, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</li> + + <li>Herez, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</li> + + <li>Herez rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_55">55</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href= + "#Page_150">150</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Herodotus, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li> + + <li>Herring bone weave, described, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>; + + <ul> + <li>in Shemakhas, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>, <a href= + "#Page_217">217</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Himalayas, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</li> + + <li>Hindu Koosh Mts., <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li> + + <li>Hoa, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li> + + <li>Holbein, Hans, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href= + "#Page_93">93</a>.</li> + + <li>Holbein rugs, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>; + + <ul> + <li>octagonal disc in, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href= + "#Page_93">93</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Homer, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href= + "#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href= + "#Page_163">163</a>.</li> + + <li>Hulaku Khan, conquered Persia, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Mongolian capital established in Persia by, <a href= + "#Page_78">78</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Hunting carpets, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>; + + <ul> + <li>symbolism in, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>.</li> + + <li>Carpets described, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Hurst, Dr. John, quoted, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li> + + <li>Hyderabad, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href= + "#Page_262">262</a>.</li> + + <li>Hyderabad rugs described, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li> + + <li>Hyder Ali, 261.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">I</span></li> + + <li>Ibn Batutah, Meshed visited by, <a href= + "#Page_110">110</a>.</li> + + <li>Iconium, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</li> + + <li>Imari ware, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li> + + <li>Imeritia, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li> + + <li>India Museum, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li> + + <li>Indigo used as a dye, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href= + "#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + + <li>Indigofera used as a dye, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li> + + <li>Indus river, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href= + "#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li> + + <li>Irak-Ajemi, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href= + "#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li> + + <li>Iran rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>; + + <ul> + <li>similarity in some rugs of the Kara-Geuz district to, + <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href= + "#Page_125">125</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Irtish river, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.</li> + + <li>Isbarta, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</li> + + <li>Iskenderoon gulf, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li> + + <li>Ismael, Shah, established capital at Ardebil, <a href= + "#Page_82">82</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Ardebil Mosque carpet made during reign of, <a href= + "#Page_84">84</a>;</li> + + <li>carpets made at Herat during reign of, <a href= + "#Page_89">89</a>;</li> + + <li>Ardebil Mosque carpet made by order of, <a href= + "#Page_127">127</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Ispahan, sacked by Tamerlane, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Shah Abbas transferred his court to, <a href= + "#Page_29">29</a>;</li> + + <li>probability that some of the so-called Ispahans were + made at, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>;</li> + + <li>description of city, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Ispahan blue, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</li> + + <li>Ispahan rugs, lotus design in, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>; + + <ul> + <li>made at Ispahan, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>;</li> + + <li>sombre tones of, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>;</li> + + <li>red fields of, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>;</li> + + <li>blues and reds of the antique, <a href= + "#Page_127">127</a>;</li> + + <li>palmettes of the antique, <a href= + "#Page_145">145</a>.</li> + + <li>Modern rugs described, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, + <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href= + "#Page_113">113</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">J</span></li> + + <li>Jahan, Shah, 28; builder of Taj Mahal, <a href= + "#Page_94">94</a>;<ul> + + <li>Indian rug-weaving declined after death of, <a href= + "#Page_253">253</a>.</li></ul></li> + + <li>Jail system of India, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> + + <li>Jaipur, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href= + "#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Jaipur rugs described, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Japan, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li> + + <li>Jhelum river, suggested as origin of pear design, + <a href="#Page_70">70</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Srinagar on the, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Joshaghan district, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li> + + <li>Joshaghan rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_50">50</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href= + "#Page_133">133</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Jubbulpur, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href= + "#Page_258">258</a>.</li> + + <li>Jubbulpur rugs described, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>, + <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Jute, used in weaving, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, + <a href="#Page_33">33</a>; + + <ul> + <li>in Kulahs, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>;</li> + + <li>in Vellore rugs, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>;</li> + + <li>in Bangalore rugs, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">K</span></li> + + <li>Kaaba, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</li> + + <li>Kabistan, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li> + + <li>Kabistan rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_204">204</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href= + "#Page_292">292</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, <a href= + "#Page_304">304</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_54">54</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>effulgent stars of, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;</li> + + <li>Cufic borders of, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>;</li> + + <li>patterns of some Shirvans similar to those of, <a href= + "#Page_213">213</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href= + "#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href= + "#Page_228">228</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kain, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</li> + + <li>Kaisariyeh, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li> + + <li>Kaisariyeh rugs described, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, + <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li> + + <li>Kaiser Friedrich Museum, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, + <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</li> + + <li>Kang-hi rugs, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href= + "#Page_101">101</a>.<ul> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>, <a href= + "#Page_269">269</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>;</li> + + <li>medallions, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Karabacek, Dr., quoted, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li> + + <li>Karabagh district, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href= + "#Page_224">224</a>.</li> + + <li>Karabagh rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, + <a href="#Page_53">53</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>Karadaghs compared with, <a href= + "#Page_151">151</a>;</li> + + <li>Shushas compared with, <a href= + "#Page_224">224</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href= + "#Page_223">223</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Karadagh district, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</li> + + <li>Karadagh rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described; border stripes, <a href= + "#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kara-Geuz district, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> + + <li>Kara-Geuz rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_154">154</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Karaje rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_286">286</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_53">53</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href= + "#Page_144">144</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kara Kum desert, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li> + + <li>Karaman, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</li> + + <li>Karaman rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_289">289</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</li> + + <li>Kilims, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>, <a href= + "#Page_279">279</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kashan, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href= + "#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> + + <li>Kashan rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>, <a href= + "#Page_288">288</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href= + "#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, + <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>pattern of Sarouks like that of, <a href= + "#Page_134">134</a>;</li> + + <li>correspondence of some rugs of Tabriz with, <a href= + "#Page_145">145</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href= + "#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kashgar, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li> + + <li>Kashgar rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>, <a href= + "#Page_292">292</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>, <a href= + "#Page_248">248</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kashmir, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href= + "#Page_255">255</a>; + + <ul> + <li>goat’s wool of, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, + <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Katchli, derivation of, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>; + + <ul> + <li>pattern used in Tekkes, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, + <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kazak rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>, <a href= + "#Page_304">304</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, + <a href="#Page_53">53</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>Western Kurdistans compared with, <a href= + "#Page_141">141</a>;</li> + + <li>Afshars compared with, <a href= + "#Page_155">155</a>;</li> + + <li>Yuruks compared with, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>;</li> + + <li>Tcherkess compared with, <a href= + "#Page_209">209</a>;</li> + + <li>Kutais compared with, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>;</li> + + <li>Genghas compared with, <a href= + "#Page_224">224</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href= + "#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, <a href= + "#Page_222">222</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href= + "#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href= + "#Page_229">229</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kazakje, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</li> + + <li>Kea-king dynasty, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Keen-lung dynasty. Rugs described, <a href= + "#Page_270">270</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>, <a href= + "#Page_272">272</a>; + + <ul> + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href= + "#Page_275">275</a>;</li> + + <li>medallions, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kenares defined, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</li> + + <li>Kerim, Khan, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>; + + <ul> + <li>royal patronage of weaving at Shiraz under, <a href= + "#Page_116">116</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kermanshah, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href= + "#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</li> + + <li>Kermanshah rugs, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href= + "#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href= + "#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>, <a href= + "#Page_288">288</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href= + "#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_52">52</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>corners of Khorassans compared with those of, <a href= + "#Page_109">109</a>;</li> + + <li>Tabriz rugs compared with, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, + <a href="#Page_146">146</a>;</li> + + <li>Amritsars mistaken for, <a href= + "#Page_256">256</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href= + "#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kermes used as a dye, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li> + + <li>Key pattern, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li> + + <li>Khali defined, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</li> + + <li>Khibitkas, defined, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>; + + <ul> + <li>rugs made for doors of, <a href= + "#Page_239">239</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Khiva, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href= + "#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href= + "#Page_244">244</a>.</li> + + <li>Khiva rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href= + "#Page_242">242</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href= + "#Page_241">241</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href= + "#Page_251">251</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Khorassan, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href= + "#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>; + + <ul> + <li>wool of, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>;</li> + + <li>Herats made in, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>;</li> + + <li>Kurdistans in, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>;</li> + + <li>Yomuds in, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Khorassan rugs, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href= + "#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href= + "#Page_288">288</a>; + + <ul> + <li>left-hand knots in, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>;</li> + + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, + <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>resemblance of Mesheds to, <a href= + "#Page_110">110</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href= + "#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href= + "#Page_110">110</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Khotan, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> + + <li>Kidderminster, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li> + + <li>Kilims, earliest rugs similar to, <a href= + "#Page_75">75</a>; + + <ul> + <li>pattern in Shirvan, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li> + + <li>Kilims described, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>, <a href= + "#Page_277">277</a>, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>, <a href= + "#Page_279">279</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>, <a href= + "#Page_281">281</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>King-te Chin, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>.</li> + + <li>Kirghiz, steppes, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>; + + <ul> + <li>tribes, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kirman, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href= + "#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>, <a href= + "#Page_206">206</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>; + + <ul> + <li>wool of, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>;</li> + + <li>carpets made during Caliphate at, <a href= + "#Page_90">90</a>;</li> + + <li>early weavers taken to Asia Minor from, <a href= + "#Page_181">181</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kirman rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>, <a href= + "#Page_304">304</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, + <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>;</li> + + <li>resemblance of Kermanshahs to, <a href= + "#Page_138">138</a>;</li> + + <li>flowers in Tabriz rugs compared with those of, <a href= + "#Page_145">145</a>;</li> + + <li>some old Bergamos as valuable as, <a href= + "#Page_167">167</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href= + "#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kirmans, Turkish, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li> + + <li>Kir-Shehr, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li> + + <li>Kir-Shehr rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_63">63</a>;</li> + + <li>prayer arches of Bergamos compared with those of, + <a href="#Page_167">167</a>;</li> + + <li>prayer arches of Ladiks compared with those of, + <a href="#Page_183">183</a>;</li> + + <li>often called Anatolian, <a href= + "#Page_187">187</a>;</li> + + <li>prayer arches of Mudjars compared with those of, + <a href="#Page_189">189</a>;</li> + + <li>prayer arches of Tuzlas compared with those of, + <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href= + "#Page_186">186</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kis-kilims, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> + + <li>Kizil Arvat, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li> + + <li>Kizil Irmak river, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href= + "#Page_189">189</a>.</li> + + <li>Kizil Kum, “desert of red sands,” <a href= + "#Page_235">235</a>.</li> + + <li>Knights of St. John, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href= + "#Page_179">179</a>.</li> + + <li>Knots, Ghiordes, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Sehna, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>;</li> + + <li>right-hand, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>;</li> + + <li>left-hand, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>;</li> + + <li>peculiarities of, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>;</li> + + <li>illustrated, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Konieh, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href= + "#Page_190">190</a>.</li> + + <li>Konieh rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_55">55</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_63">63</a>;</li> + + <li>resemblance in pattern of Kir-Shehrs to that of, + <a href="#Page_186">186</a>;</li> + + <li>prayer arches of Anatolians compared with those of, + <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href= + "#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href= + "#Page_195">195</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Koran, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>.</li> + + <li>Kuba, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href= + "#Page_202">202</a>.</li> + + <li>Kuba rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href= + "#Page_203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kublai Khan, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li> + + <li>Kulah, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href= + "#Page_171">171</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li> + + <li>Kulah rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, + <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, + <a href="#Page_54">54</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_64">64</a>;</li> + + <li>lily pattern in, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>;</li> + + <li>Ghiordes rugs adopting border of, <a href= + "#Page_171">171</a>;</li> + + <li>geometric leaf of, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>;</li> + + <li>prayer arch of Koniehs compared with those of, <a href= + "#Page_186">186</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>, <a href= + "#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href= + "#Page_174">174</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href= + "#Page_194">194</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kur valley, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href= + "#Page_214">214</a>.</li> + + <li>Kurdistan, Persian, rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, + <a href="#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_51">51</a>;</li> + + <li>Mina Khani pattern characteristic of, <a href= + "#Page_105">105</a>;</li> + + <li>Western Kurdistans compared with, <a href= + "#Page_141">141</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href= + "#Page_143">143</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href= + "#Page_159">159</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kurdistan rugs, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, + <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>;</li> + + <li>Karajes compared with, <a href= + "#Page_143">143</a>;</li> + + <li>ground colour of some Mosuls similar to that of, + <a href="#Page_154">154</a>;</li> + + <li>some Kara-Geuz rugs similar to, <a href= + "#Page_155">155</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kurdistan, Western, rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, + <a href="#Page_286">286</a>; + + <ul> + <li>described, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href= + "#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</li> + + <li>Kilims, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kurds, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href= + "#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href= + "#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href= + "#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href= + "#Page_191">191</a>; + + <ul> + <li>located at Ak-kal by Shah of Persia, <a href= + "#Page_238">238</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kutais, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li> + + <li>Kutais rugs, technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_53">53</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>, <a href= + "#Page_219">219</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href= + "#Page_229">229</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Kutayah, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li> + + <li>Kutayah rugs described, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">L</span></li> + + <li>Lacquer, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li> + + <li>Ladik rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_63">63</a>;</li> + + <li>pomegranate design in, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripe of Melez rugs similar to that of, + <a href="#Page_177">177</a>;</li> + + <li>vandykes of Rhodian rugs resembling those of, <a href= + "#Page_179">179</a>;</li> + + <li>nap of, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>;</li> + + <li>Kir-Shehr panels compared with those of, <a href= + "#Page_187">187</a>;</li> + + <li>vandykes in Mudjars borrowed from, <a href= + "#Page_189">189</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href= + "#Page_184">184</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href= + "#Page_194">194</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Lahore, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href= + "#Page_256">256</a>; + + <ul> + <li>royal factory at, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Lahore rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_305">305</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>, <a href= + "#Page_257">257</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Landor, Henry Savage, quoted, <a href= + "#Page_300">300</a>.</li> + + <li>Laristan border stripe, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> + + <li>Latch-hooks. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Latimer, C., quoted, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.</li> + + <li>Lattice-work pattern, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href= + "#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href= + "#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href= + "#Page_204">204</a>.</li> + + <li>Lemons used as a mordant, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + + <li>Lesghian rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.<ul> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href= + "#Page_207">207</a>.</li></ul></li> + + <li>Lesghian tribes, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href= + "#Page_207">207</a>.</li> + + <li>Limes used as a mordant, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + + <li>Linen, in Sehnas, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>; + + <ul> + <li>in Tabriz, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>;</li> + + <li>in Ghiordes, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>;</li> + + <li>in Sarouks, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>;</li> + + <li>in Kashans, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Loom, described, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustrated, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Lotus. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Luristan rugs, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, 55.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">M</span></li> + + <li>Madder used as a dye, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li> + + <li>Madras, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Madras rugs described, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, + <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li> + + <li>Mahal rugs, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>, <a href= + "#Page_288">288</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href= + "#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>similar to Muskabads, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, + <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Maharajah, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Makimonos, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</li> + + <li>Makri rugs, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</li> + + <li>Maksoud, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href= + "#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.</li> + + <li>Malek Shah made Ispahan the capital of Persia, <a href= + "#Page_26">26</a>.</li> + + <li>Malgaran, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li> + + <li>Manchoos, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li> + + <li>Mangishlar peninsula, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</li> + + <li>Marco Polo, referred to Armenian carpets, <a href= + "#Page_91">91</a>; + + <ul> + <li>referred to Kirman weavings, <a href= + "#Page_113">113</a>;</li> + + <li>visited Kashgar, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Marsulipatam, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href= + "#Page_260">260</a>.</li> + + <li>Marsulipatam rugs described, <a href= + "#Page_260">260</a>.</li> + + <li>Martin, Dr. F. R., quoted and cited, <a href= + "#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href= + "#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href= + "#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href= + "#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, 227.</li> + + <li>Maya ruins, swastika on, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li> + + <li>Mecca, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href= + "#Page_98">98</a>; + + <ul> + <li>pilgrimages to, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>;</li> + + <li>bit of earth from, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, + <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Mecca rugs, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href= + "#Page_118">118</a>.</li> + + <li>Medallions. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Medes, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href= + "#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href= + "#Page_234">234</a>.</li> + + <li>Medina, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href= + "#Page_296">296</a>.</li> + + <li>Melez rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_51">51</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_63">63</a>;</li> + + <li>sometimes called Anatolians, <a href= + "#Page_187">187</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href= + "#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href= + "#Page_195">195</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Mersherski, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li> + + <li>Merv Kilims, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>, <a href= + "#Page_281">281</a>.</li> + + <li>Meshed, pilgrimages to, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href= + "#Page_108">108</a>.</li> + + <li>Meshed rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href= + "#Page_288">288</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href= + "#Page_111">111</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; rugs exhibited in, + <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href= + "#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href= + "#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href= + "#Page_93">93</a>.</li> + + <li>Michelangelo, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> + + <li>Mina Khan, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li> + + <li>Mina Khani pattern, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href= + "#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href= + "#Page_249">249</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustrated, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Ming dynasty, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href= + "#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href= + "#Page_268">268</a>; + + <ul> + <li>coat of arms of, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Ming rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_298">298</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Mirabad, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li> + + <li>Mirror backs in Chinese rugs, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>, + <a href="#Page_272">272</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li> + + <li>Mir-Sarabend. _See_ Sarabend.</li> + + <li>Mirzapur, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href= + "#Page_258">258</a>.</li> + + <li>Mirzapur rugs described, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li> + + <li>Mohair, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li> + + <li>Mohammed, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>; + + <ul> + <li>epithet applied to Guli Hinnaiby, <a href= + "#Page_104">104</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Mohammedans, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href= + "#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href= + "#Page_237">237</a>, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>; + + <ul> + <li>dominant in Southwestern Asia, <a href= + "#Page_25">25</a>;</li> + + <li>invaded India, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>;</li> + + <li>Meshed sacred to, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>;</li> + + <li>prejudice against depicting animals by Sunnite, + <a href="#Page_165">165</a>;</li> + + <li>Caucasia invaded by, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>;</li> + + <li>influence on weaving by, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, + <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Mongols, captured Bagdad, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>; + + <ul> + <li>gained foothold in India, <a href= + "#Page_28">28</a>;</li> + + <li>in Persia, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>;</li> + + <li>in Caucasia, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>;</li> + + <li>overran Turkestan, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Mordants, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + + <li>Mordecai, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li> + + <li>Moslems, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>; + + <ul> + <li>preserved art treasures, <a href= + "#Page_76">76</a>;</li> + + <li>green sacred to, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Mosul district, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li> + + <li>Mosul rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>, <a href= + "#Page_302">302</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>, <a href= + "#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, + <a href="#Page_52">52</a>;</li> + + <li>Western Kurdistans confused with, <a href= + "#Page_141">141</a>;</li> + + <li>Persian Kurdistan and Bijar rugs compared with, + <a href="#Page_143">143</a>;</li> + + <li>resemblance of weave of some Gozene rugs with that of, + <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href= + "#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href= + "#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Mt. Ararat, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href= + "#Page_219">219</a>.</li> + + <li>Mt. Ida, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li> + + <li>Mt. Kazbek, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li> + + <li>Mt. Olympus, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href= + "#Page_191">191</a>.</li> + + <li>Mudjar, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</li> + + <li>Mudjar rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_63">63</a>;</li> + + <li>frequently classed as Anatolians, <a href= + "#Page_187">187</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href= + "#Page_190">190</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Multan, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> + + <li>Multan rugs described, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li> + + <li>Mumford, John Kimberly, cited, v, <a href= + "#Page_67">67</a>.</li> + + <li>Musée des Arts Decoratifs, <a href= + "#Page_79">79</a>.</li> + + <li>Muskabad district, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li> + + <li>Muskabad rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>, <a href= + "#Page_301">301</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>turtle border in, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href= + "#Page_132">132</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href= + "#Page_159">159</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">N</span></li> + + <li>Nadir Shah, Afghans defeated by, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>; + + <ul> + <li>influence of, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>;</li> + + <li>art decadence following capture of Herat by, <a href= + "#Page_106">106</a>;</li> + + <li>destruction of Herat by, <a href= + "#Page_110">110</a>;</li> + + <li>weavers removed to Northern Persia by, <a href= + "#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>;</li> + + <li>Shemakha almost destroyed by, <a href= + "#Page_214">214</a>;</li> + + <li>Shusha built by, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>;</li> + + <li>overthrow of Mogul dominion by, <a href= + "#Page_254">254</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Namads, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href= + "#Page_122">122</a>.</li> + + <li>Namazlik, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href= + "#Page_150">150</a>.</li> + + <li>Netsukés, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li> + + <li>Nigde, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li> + + <li>Nigde rugs, 101; classed as Anatolians, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>187.<ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li></ul></li> + + <li>Nijni Novgorod, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li> + + <li>Nimrod, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li> + + <li>Nineveh, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href= + "#Page_102">102</a>; + + <ul> + <li>drawings on walls of, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>;</li> + + <li>Mosul near ruins of, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Niris lake, wool obtained near, <a href= + "#Page_31">31</a>.</li> + + <li>Niris rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_204">204</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>, <a href= + "#Page_287">287</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href= + "#Page_120">120</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Nizami manuscript determining age of Hunting Carpets, + <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li> + + <li>Nomadic influence, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>; + + <ul> + <li>characteristics in rugs, 134; rugs, <a href= + "#Page_58">58</a>, 153.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">O</span></li> + + <li>Oak gall, used as a dye, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + + <li>Odjalik, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</li> + + <li>Omar Khayyam, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href= + "#Page_110">110</a>.</li> + + <li>Onosma echioides used as a dye, <a href= + "#Page_41">41</a>.</li> + + <li>Orenburg, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href= + "#Page_240">240</a>.</li> + + <li>Oriental art, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> + + <li>Ottoman Turks, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href= + "#Page_28">28</a>.</li> + + <li>Oushak, city and district, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, + <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li> + + <li>Oushak rugs, type of modern, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>; + + <ul> + <li>evidences of Persian treatment in, <a href= + "#Page_166">166</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href= + "#Page_175">175</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Outer edging in Kirmans, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>; + + <ul> + <li>in Hamadans, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>;</li> + + <li>in Sarouks, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>;</li> + + <li>in Bijars, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>;</li> + + <li>in Kermanshahs, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>;</li> + + <li>in Mosuls, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</li> + + <li>Overcasting of sides; weft overcasting described, + <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>;</li> + + <li>illustrated, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>;</li> + + <li>double overcasting described, <a href= + "#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>;</li> + + <li>illustrated, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Oxus river (Amu Daria), <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href= + "#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href= + "#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href= + "#Page_243">243</a>, 244.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">P</span></li> + + <li>Palais de Commerce at Lyons, <a href= + "#Page_80">80</a>.</li> + + <li>Palm design. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Pamir plateau, sheep of, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>; + + <ul> + <li>mountains of, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Paropamisus Mts., <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li> + + <li>Parsees, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>; + + <ul> + <li>symbolism derived from fire worship of, <a href= + "#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;</li> + + <li>at Baku, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Parthians, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.</li> + + <li>Patna rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.</li> + + <li>Paul, St., <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href= + "#Page_181">181</a>.</li> + + <li>Pear design. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Pergamus, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href= + "#Page_168">168</a>.</li> + + <li>Persepolis, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li> + + <li>Phasis river, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li> + + <li>Pile of rugs, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li> + + <li>Pliny, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li> + + <li>Polish silk carpets, reciprocal trefoils in, <a href= + "#Page_65">65</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Chinese cloud-bands in, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>;</li> + + <li>lotus in, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</li> + + <li>Carpets described, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;</li> + + <li>bright hues of, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Polonaise carpets. _See_ Polish silk.</li> + + <li>Pomegranate. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Pomegranate rind used as a mordant, <a href= + "#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + + <li>Porter, Sir Robert Kerr, quoted, <a href= + "#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</li> + + <li>Prayer arches, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href= + "#Page_62">62</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustrated, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href= + "#Page_63">63</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Prayer rugs. _See_ Namazlik.</li> + + <li>Priam, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</li> + + <li>Prometheus, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li> + + <li>Punjab, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href= + "#Page_256">256</a>, 257.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">R</span></li> + + <li>Ratanjot used as a dye, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> + + <li>Rembrandt, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> + + <li>Rhodes, Isle of, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href= + "#Page_178">178</a>.</li> + + <li>Rhodian rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_289">289</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href= + "#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Rion river, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li> + + <li>River loop. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Robinson, Vincent, cited, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, + <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href= + "#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href= + "#Page_258">258</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Rubens, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> + + <li>Rubia cordifolia used as a dye, <a href= + "#Page_41">41</a>.</li> + + <li>Rubia tinctorum used as a dye, <a href= + "#Page_38">38</a>.</li> + + <li>Runners, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</li> + + <li>Ruskin, John, quoted, 18.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">S</span></li> + + <li>Saadi, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</li> + + <li>Saddle-bags, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href= + "#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li> + + <li>Safavid dynasty, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href= + "#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href= + "#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href= + "#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li> + + <li>Saffron used as a dye, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li> + + <li>Salors, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li> + + <li>Samarkand, capital of Tamerlane, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>; + + <ul> + <li>the “Mirror of the World,” <a href= + "#Page_245">245</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Samarkand rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>, <a href= + "#Page_282">282</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_50">50</a>;</li> + + <li>swastika in, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>, <a href= + "#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Samo-Kien, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li> + + <li>Sarabend rugs, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>, <a href= + "#Page_304">304</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_51">51</a>;</li> + + <li>pear design of, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href= + "#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href= + "#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>;</li> + + <li>turtle border in, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;</li> + + <li>pile of, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href= + "#Page_130">130</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href= + "#Page_160">160</a>.</li> + + <li>Mir-Sarabends, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li> + + <li>Royal Sarabends, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Saracenic art, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>; + + <ul> + <li>influence, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href= + "#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href= + "#Page_166">166</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Saracens, carpet weaving introduced into India by, + <a href="#Page_94">94</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Persia under dominion of, <a href= + "#Page_103">103</a>;</li> + + <li>Baku in possession of, <a href= + "#Page_210">210</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Saraks, town of, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href= + "#Page_238">238</a>.</li> + + <li>Sarawan district, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href= + "#Page_131">131</a>.</li> + + <li>Sarouk, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.</li> + + <li>Sarouk rugs, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href= + "#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>, <a href= + "#Page_288">288</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href= + "#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, + <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, + <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>animal carpet with weave similar to that of, <a href= + "#Page_86">86</a>;</li> + + <li>corners of Khorassans compared with those of, <a href= + "#Page_109">109</a>;</li> + + <li>patterns of Bijars compared with those of, <a href= + "#Page_137">137</a>.</li> + + <li>Tabriz rugs compared with, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, + <a href="#Page_146">146</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href= + "#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Sassanides, Kingdom of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>; + + <ul> + <li>elaborate carpets made during rule of, <a href= + "#Page_74">74</a>;</li> + + <li>capture of capital of, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Savalans, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li> + + <li>Sedjadeh, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</li> + + <li>Sehna, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href= + "#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</li> + + <li>Sehna rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, + <a href="#Page_54">54</a>;</li> + + <li>medallions of, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>;</li> + + <li>turtle border in, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.</li> + + <li>Herati design in Persian Kurdistans borrowed from, + <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href= + "#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>;</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Sehna kilims, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> + + <li>Seljukian Turks, effect on art, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>; + + <ul> + <li>powerful in Asia Minor, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>;</li> + + <li>overthrow by Genghis Khan, <a href= + "#Page_78">78</a>;</li> + + <li>invasion of Southern Persia by, <a href= + "#Page_90">90</a>;</li> + + <li>monuments in Armenia of, <a href= + "#Page_91">91</a>;</li> + + <li>dominion in Persia of, <a href= + "#Page_103">103</a>;</li> + + <li>Konieh surrendered to, <a href= + "#Page_181">181</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Selvage, weft selvage described, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, + <a href="#Page_56">56</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustrated, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>;</li> + + <li>double selvage described, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, + <a href="#Page_56">56</a>;</li> + + <li>illustrated, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>;</li> + + <li>mixed selvage described, <a href= + "#Page_56">56</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Serapi rugs, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>; + + <ul> + <li>turtle border in, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href= + "#Page_149">149</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Shah Abbas pattern, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href= + "#Page_206">206</a>.</li> + + <li>Shemakha, city of, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li> + + <li>Shemakha rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.<ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_216"> + 216</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>;</li> + + <li>border-stripes, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Shield of David. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Shiites, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>; + + <ul> + <li>animal designs permitted by, <a href= + "#Page_72">72</a>;</li> + + <li>Meshed sacred to, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Shiraz, wool of, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>; + + <ul> + <li>city of, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Shiraz rugs, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href= + "#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>, <a href= + "#Page_297">297</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href= + "#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_51">51</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>latch-hooks in, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>;</li> + + <li>resemblance of Niris rugs to, <a href= + "#Page_119">119</a>;</li> + + <li>pear design of Kabistans similar to those of, <a href= + "#Page_201">201</a>;</li> + + <li>wool of Tiflis rugs suggests that of, <a href= + "#Page_217">217</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href= + "#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href= + "#Page_118">118</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>;</li> + + <li>saddle-bags, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Shirvan district conquered by Solyman the Magnificent, + <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.</li> + + <li>Shirvan rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>, <a href= + "#Page_293">293</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_54">54</a>;</li> + + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>design of Shiraz rugs similar to that of, <a href= + "#Page_117">117</a>;</li> + + <li>weave of Kabistans compared with that of, <a href= + "#Page_201">201</a>;</li> + + <li>pattern of Chichis resembling that of, <a href= + "#Page_207">207</a>;</li> + + <li>geometric design of Bakus seen in, <a href= + "#Page_211">211</a>;</li> + + <li>some patterns of Genghas similar to those of, <a href= + "#Page_225">225</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href= + "#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href= + "#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href= + "#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + + <li>Kilims, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Shusha, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> + + <li>Shusha rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> + + <li>Sides, finish of, 55; illustrated, <a href= + "#Page_49">49</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Silk, used for weaving, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>; + + <ul> + <li>indigenous to Asia, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>;</li> + + <li>cultivated at Kashgar and Yarkand, <a href= + "#Page_247">247</a>;</li> + + <li>used in Kirmans, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>;</li> + + <li>in Yezd rugs, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>;</li> + + <li>in Hamadans, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>;</li> + + <li>in Kashans, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>;</li> + + <li>in Sehnas, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href= + "#Page_135">135</a>;</li> + + <li>in Ghiordes, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>;</li> + + <li>in Hereke rugs, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>;</li> + + <li>in Kaisariyeh rugs, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>;</li> + + <li>in Royal Bokharas, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Silk carpets, sent to Sultan of Constantinople, <a href= + "#Page_87">87</a>; + + <ul> + <li>made at Kashan, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Sindh, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href= + "#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Sindh rugs described, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Sirab, village of, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> + + <li>Sivas, Seljukian gate at, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>; + + <ul> + <li>city of, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Sivas rugs described, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href= + "#Page_189">189</a>.</li> + + <li>Smyrna, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href= + "#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Yuruks at, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Smyrna rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Broussa rugs compared with those of, <a href= + "#Page_181">181</a>;</li> + + <li>Indian rugs compared with those of, <a href= + "#Page_254">254</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Solyman, King, the ring of, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>; + + <ul> + <li>pomegranates cultivated in days of, <a href= + "#Page_69">69</a>;</li> + + <li>his emblem of an eight-pointed star, <a href= + "#Page_158">158</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Solyman the Magnificent, Iran threatened by, <a href= + "#Page_28">28</a>; + + <ul> + <li>weavers taken to Asia Minor by, <a href= + "#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Soumak rugs, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href= + "#Page_292">292</a>; + + <ul> + <li>weave of, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>;</li> + + <li>designs of cross in, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>;</li> + + <li>tri-cleft leaf in, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href= + "#Page_209">209</a>;</li> + + <li>Kubas and Shemakhas compared with, <a href= + "#Page_203">203</a>;</li> + + <li>patterns of Shirvans compared with those of, <a href= + "#Page_213">213</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>, <a href= + "#Page_215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href= + "#Page_230">230</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Sousa, reciprocal sawtooth on monuments of, <a href= + "#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + + <li>South Kensington Museum, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, + <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Spanish rugs sent to Queen Eleanor, <a href= + "#Page_25">25</a>.</li> + + <li>Sparta rugs. _See_ Isbarta.</li> + + <li>Spindle, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href= + "#Page_35">35</a>.</li> + + <li>Spinning, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href= + "#Page_35">35</a>.</li> + + <li>Spring of Chosroes carpet described, <a href= + "#Page_76">76</a>.</li> + + <li>Srinagar, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href= + "#Page_255">255</a>.</li> + + <li>Srinagar rugs described, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> + + <li>Stebbing, Edward, cited, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>; + + <ul> + <li>quoted, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href= + "#Page_84">84</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>St. Sophia, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href= + "#Page_28">28</a>.</li> + + <li>Star design. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Stein, Dr. M. A., cited, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> + + <li>Strabo, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li> + + <li>Stripes. _See_ Border.</li> + + <li>Suj-Bulak, town of, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</li> + + <li>Suj-Bulak rugs, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href= + "#Page_151">151</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Sulphate of iron used as a mordant, <a href= + "#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + + <li>Sulphate of tin used as a mordant, <a href= + "#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + + <li>Sultanabad, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href= + "#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li> + + <li>Sultanabad rugs, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Indian rugs compared with those of, <a href= + "#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Sumach used as a dye, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li> + + <li>Sumerians, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li> + + <li>Sung dynasty, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li> + + <li>Sunnites opposed to depicting animal figures, <a href= + "#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href= + "#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href= + "#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> + + <li>Swastika. Illustrated, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Symbols in colours and designs, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, + <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href= + "#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href= + "#Page_72">72</a>.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">T</span></li> + + <li>Tabriz, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href= + "#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href= + "#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>; + + <ul> + <li>captured by Solyman the Magnificent, <a href= + "#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>;</li> + + <li>dyers from, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>;</li> + + <li>an important art centre, <a href= + "#Page_89">89</a>;</li> + + <li>a mart for rugs, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>;</li> + + <li>Herat carpets in hall of governor at, <a href= + "#Page_106">106</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Tabriz rugs, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>, <a href= + "#Page_287">287</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>, <a href= + "#Page_297">297</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href= + "#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, + <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;</li> + + <li>Chinese cloud-band in, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>;</li> + + <li>medallions of Herez rugs similar to those of, <a href= + "#Page_149">149</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href= + "#Page_146">146</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Taj Mahal, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href= + "#Page_257">257</a>.</li> + + <li>Tak-i-Bostan, rock-carved sculptures of, <a href= + "#Page_83">83</a>.</li> + + <li>Tamara, Queen, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href= + "#Page_198">198</a>.</li> + + <li>Tamarind used as a mordant, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + + <li>Tamasp, Shah, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href= + "#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Ardebil carpet finished during reign of, <a href= + "#Page_84">84</a>;</li> + + <li>silk rugs made during reign of, <a href= + "#Page_87">87</a>;</li> + + <li>Herat an important art centre during time of, <a href= + "#Page_89">89</a>;</li> + + <li>Tabriz carpets woven during reign of, <a href= + "#Page_145">145</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Tamerlane, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href= + "#Page_254">254</a>; + + <ul> + <li>Mongols united by, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>;</li> + + <li>Ispahan sacked by, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>;</li> + + <li>artists gathered at Samarkand by, <a href= + "#Page_234">234</a>;</li> + + <li>Samarkand made capital by, <a href= + "#Page_246">246</a>;</li> + + <li>Multan captured by, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Tang dynasty, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li> + + <li>Tanjore district, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + + <li>Taoist symbols, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li> + + <li>Tao-Kwang, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>. Rugs described, <a href= + "#Page_272">272</a>.</li> + + <li>“Tapis de l’Asie Centrale” quoted, + <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li> + + <li>Tartars, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href= + "#Page_220">220</a>;</li> + + <li>Turkestan conquered by, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</li> + + <li>Tartary, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href= + "#Page_32">32</a>.</li> + + <li>Tchechen. _See_ Chichi.</li> + + <li>Tcherkess (Circassian) rugs, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, + <a href="#Page_292">292</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>, + <a href="#Page_305">305</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_54">54</a>;</li> + + <li>tri-cleft leaf in, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;</li> + + <li>long nap of Western Kurdistans similar to that of, + <a href="#Page_141">141</a>;</li> + + <li>sunburst pattern of Kazaks similar to that of, <a href= + "#Page_220">220</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href= + "#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Tcherkess tribes, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li> + + <li>Teheran, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>; + + <ul> + <li>caravans to Meshed from, <a href= + "#Page_110">110</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Teheran rugs described, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, + <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> + + <li>Tekke, derivation of name, <a href= + "#Page_238">238</a>.</li> + + <li>Tekke rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href= + "#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustration of prayer arch of, <a href= + "#Page_61">61</a>;</li> + + <li>S design in, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</li> + + <li>selvage at sides of Beluchistans similar to that of, + <a href="#Page_235">235</a>;</li> + + <li>similarity in colours of Yomuds and those of, <a href= + "#Page_242">242</a>;</li> + + <li>designs in Afghans and Yomuds similar to those of, + <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href= + "#Page_239">239</a>, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href= + "#Page_251">251</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Terek valley, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href= + "#Page_208">208</a>.</li> + + <li>Terminalia citrina used as a dye, <a href= + "#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + + <li>Tiflis, overrun by Seljukian Turks, <a href= + "#Page_26">26</a>; + + <ul> + <li>mart for rugs, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>;</li> + + <li>caravans from Tabriz to, <a href= + "#Page_145">145</a>;</li> + + <li>capital of Georgia, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Tiflis rugs, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_53">53</a>;</li> + + <li>resemblance between weave of Kutais and that of, + <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href= + "#Page_218">218</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Tiger skin pattern, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</li> + + <li>Timurids, invasion of, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, + <a href="#Page_136">136</a>; + + <ul> + <li>designs due to, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href= + "#Page_166">166</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Titian, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> + + <li>Toledo, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li> + + <li>Toon, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</li> + + <li>Trebizond, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href= + "#Page_163">163</a>.</li> + + <li>Turanian races, geometric designs among, <a href= + "#Page_62">62</a>.</li> + + <li>Turkish Kilims, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> + + <li>Turmeric used as a dye, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</li> + + <li>Turtle border, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href= + "#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>; + + <ul> + <li>probable origin of, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href= + "#Page_79">79</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Tuz Gul, lake, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href= + "#Page_190">190</a>.</li> + + <li>Tuzla rugs sometimes classed as Anatolians, <a href= + "#Page_187">187</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Type characteristics, not invariable, <a href= + "#Page_v">v</a>; + + <ul> + <li>term defined, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">U</span></li> + + <li>Urumiah lake, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href= + "#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> + + <li>Uzbeck Tartars, care of sheep by, <a href= + "#Page_31">31.</a></li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">V</span></li> + + <li>Valonia used as a mordant, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + + <li>Value of antique carpets, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, + <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li> + + <li>Vambery, Prof., cited, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li> + + <li>Van lake, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href= + "#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> + + <li>Vandykes. _See_ Designs.</li> + + <li>Vellore, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href= + "#Page_261">261</a>.</li> + + <li>Vellore rugs described, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li> + + <li>Victoria and Albert Museum, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</li> + + <li>Vienna publication of Oriental carpets, <a href= + "#Page_80">80</a>, 259.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">W</span></li> + + <li>Warangal, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href= + "#Page_262">262</a>.</li> + + <li>Warangal rugs described, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li> + + <li>Warp, arrangement on loom, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>; + + <ul> + <li>characteristics of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href= + "#Page_52">52</a>;</li> + + <li>illustrated, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Washing, materials for weaving, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, + <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>; + + <ul> + <li>artificial, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>, <a href= + "#Page_301">301</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Weaving described, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href= + "#Page_47">47</a>; + + <ul> + <li>illustrated, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>“Wedding of the Foundling,” <a href= + "#Page_92">92</a>.</li> + + <li>Weft, arrangement of, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technical characteristics of, <a href= + "#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href= + "#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Whirling Dervishes, at Konieh, <a href= + "#Page_181">181</a>.</li> + + <li>Williams, C. F., <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href= + "#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</li> + + <li>Whistler cited, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li> + + <li>Wise men of the East, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</li> + + <li>Wool, of the camel, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href= + "#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href= + "#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>; + + <ul> + <li>of the goat, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href= + "#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href= + "#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>, <a href= + "#Page_249">249</a>;</li> + + <li>of sheep, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href= + "#Page_31">31</a>;</li> + + <li>of the yak, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href= + "#Page_33">33</a>;</li> + + <li>spinning, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>;</li> + + <li>washing, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, 36.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">X</span></li> + + <li>Xenophon, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href= + "#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</li> + + <li>Xerxes, 115.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">Y</span></li> + + <li>Yak’s hair. _See_ Wool.</li> + + <li>Yaprak, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</li> + + <li>Yarkand, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li> + + <li>Yarkand rugs, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href= + "#Page_265">265</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>, <a href= + "#Page_293">293</a>. + + <ul> + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>, <a href= + "#Page_248">248</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Yarn, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li> + + <li>Yerkes sale, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href= + "#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href= + "#Page_304">304</a>, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>.</li> + + <li>Yezd, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href= + "#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li> + + <li>Yezd rugs described, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</li> + + <li>Yomud rugs, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href= + "#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href= + "#Page_293">293</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>; + + <ul> + <li>colour scheme of Beshires similar to that of, <a href= + "#Page_243">243</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href= + "#Page_242">242</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href= + "#Page_251">251</a>;</li> + + <li>saddle-bags, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Yomud tribes, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>; + + <ul> + <li>robbed of their land by Tekkes, <a href= + "#Page_231">231</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Yuan dynasty, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li> + + <li>Yung-ching, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li> + + <li>Yung-ching rugs described, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, + <a href="#Page_270">270</a>; + + <ul> + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>;</li> + + <li>medallions, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Yuruk rugs, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href= + "#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>; + + <ul> + <li>technicalities in weave of, <a href= + "#Page_51">51</a>.</li> + + <li>Rugs described, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href= + "#Page_192">192</a>;</li> + + <li>border stripes, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li> + </ul> + </li> + + <li>Yuruk tribes, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href= + "#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, 220.</li> + + <li> </li> + + <li><span style="margin-left: 12em;">Z</span></li> + + <li>Zabalpur rugs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.</li> + + <li>Zagros Mts., <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href= + "#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</li> + + <li>Zarafshan river, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li> + + <li>Zoroaster, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href= + "#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li> + + <li>Zoroastrians, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</li> + </ul> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Oriental Rugs, by Walter A. 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