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diff --git a/39590-0.txt b/39590-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9a54c1f --- /dev/null +++ b/39590-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3905 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Some Account of Llangollen and its Vicinity, +by W. T. Simpson + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Some Account of Llangollen and its Vicinity + + +Author: W. T. Simpson + + + +Release Date: May 1, 2012 [eBook #39590] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOME ACCOUNT OF LLANGOLLEN AND ITS +VICINITY*** + + +Transcribed from the 1827 G. B. Whittaker edition by David Price, email +ccx074@pglaf.org + + + + + + SOME ACCOUNT + OF + LLANGOLLEN + AND + Its Vicinity; + INCLUDING A + CIRCUIT OF ABOUT SEVEN MILES. + + + * * * * * + + Dedicated, by Permission, + + TO THE RIGHT HON. LADY ELEANOR BUTLER, AND + MISS PONSONBY. + + * * * * * + + BY W. T. SIMPSON. + + * * * * * + + LONDON: + G. B. WHITTAKER, AVE MARIA LANE. + T. AND W. WOOD, BIRMINGHAM; + AND ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS. + + * * * * * + + 1827. + + TO THE + RIGHT HONOURABLE + LADY ELEANOR BUTLER, + AND TO + MISS PONSONBY, + THIS ACCOUNT OF + Llangollen and its Vicinity + IS, BY PERMISSION, + MOST HUMBLY DEDICATED, + BY THEIR MUCH OBLIGED SERVANT, + THE AUTHOR. + + + + +ADVERTISEMENT. + + +FORTUITOUS circumstances having occasioned me to become an inhabitant of +Llangollen, I was charmed with the beauty of its situation; and the +political importance in which this neighbourhood was formerly held +prompted me to collect a few notices of its local history, which I was +advised by some of my friends to publish. The condescending politeness +of the Ladies of Plas Newydd, in permitting me to dedicate my Work to +them, encouraged me to proceed; and I now venture to present my little +Book to the Public, earnestly hoping that its defects will not be found +such as to render it deserving of severe criticism, and that it will +prove generally useful. + + W. T. S. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + Page +AQUEDUCT of Pontcysyllte 62 +Authorities 195 +Berwyn Mountains 47 +Brynkinallt 33 +Castell Dinas Bran 84 +Chirk Castle 23 +— Village 30 +Clawdd Offa, or Offa’s Dyke 11, 19 +Conclusion 193 +Dee, River 137 +Glyn Dyfrdwy 145 +La Crucis, or Pillar of Eliseg 129 +Llangollen Town 1 +— Church 178 +— Bridge 143 +— Vicarage 77 +Llantysilio 110 +Llys Pengwern 78 +Plas Newydd 188 +Ruabon, or Rhiwabon 12 +Subscribers 197 +Trevor Hall 72 +Valle Crucis Abbey 113 +Wynnstay 14 + + + + +Llangollen +AND +ITS VICINITY. + + + “Here let me still with simple Nature live, + My lowly field-flowers on her altar lay; + Enjoy the blessings that she meant to give, + And calmly pass my inoffensive day.” + +THE attraction of North Wales, by its romantic scenery, the antiquity of +its language, and the well authenticated records of its desperate +struggle for independence, renders every part of the Principality +interesting, and perhaps none more so than the beautifully picturesque +town and neighbourhood of Llangollen, which have deservedly excited the +attention and admiration of a vast number of strangers and antiquarians. +Nor have the expectations of its numerous visitors been disappointed; +for, though the Alps may raise their towering summits to a greater +height—may embosom in their dark recesses more ample lakes, and give rise +to more magnificent rivers—yet even they cannot present a more pleasing +variety of scenery, or more picturesque views, than those with which +Llangollen is surrounded. + +This small market town is on the border of North Wales, and is situated +in that part of the county of Denbigh which adjoins Shropshire. It is on +the south {2} bank of the river Dee, and the mail road from London to +Holyhead passes through the town. The distance from London to Llangollen +is about one hundred and ninety miles, and from the latter place to +Holyhead seventy-seven miles. + +The town consists of one long badly paved street, and a short cross one, +together with some courts and alleys, called squares, but which at +present ill deserve an appellation generally conveying to the mind an +idea of neatness, if not of superiority, as they are for the most part +formed with obscure mean-looking houses, built of the dark-coloured +silicious stone procured from the rocky bed of the river, and from the +surrounding hills. The houses are seldom more than two stories high, and +have a very sombre appearance, except where the owners have had the good +taste to avail themselves of the lime which is near at hand, in +rough-casting or plastering the fronts. The difference of the appearance +of the buildings thus finished is so advantageous that it is to be hoped +the plan will be generally adopted. + +Increase of population has here the effect which is usually attributed to +it, viz. a manifest improvement in the town. The last census states the +number of houses at 289, and of the population at 1287; but the +inhabitants may at this time (A.D. 1827) be fairly estimated at 1500, and +habitations in proportion. Among the newly-erected houses are some very +neat buildings, at which private lodgings may be obtained, with every +requisite accommodation. + +Llangollen has a market on Saturday, and five fairs in the year, viz. on +the last Friday in January, the 17th of March, the 31st of May, the 21st +of August, and on the 22d of November; at which, horses, horned cattle, +pigs, butter, cheese, &c. are sold. A market house once stood where the +Hand Gardens now are, and is a convenience much wanted. Besides the +London Mail to Holyhead, which passes through Llangollen every afternoon +at five o’clock, and leaves the letter bags, which it takes up again +about eight o’clock every morning, there are regular stage coaches +passing to and from London and Holyhead every day. Light vans, for the +conveyance of luggage, &c. pass twice a week from Salop. There are also +waggon conveyances, through Wrexham, to Chester; and boats on a +collateral branch of the Ellesmere Canal, which start at stated periods +for Liverpool, &c. + +There are twelve licensed inns and public houses in this little town, all +of them very respectable; and whether it is owing to superior management, +or to the excellence of the water, which is the most pure imaginable, and +flows abundantly in every part of the town, the ale brewed in Llangollen +is in great and deserved repute all over the kingdom. + +Two principal inns and hotels adorn the town—the Hand inn, which is in +the centre, near the church; and the King’s Head, at the west end, near +the bridge. The excellent accommodations afforded in both of them are +not surpassed; they are under the best regulations, and abound with +elegance and convenience. Post carriages and horses are kept at both +houses, and the harp resounds in their halls. The Viceroys of the sister +kingdom, as well as the nobility, seem to regard Llangollen as a +favourite resting-place, in passing from one country to the other. + +Mountains and hills enclose the town on every side. On the south, the +Berwyn Mountains raise their lofty heads. On the north, Castell Dinas +Bran, vulgarly called Crow Castle, seated on its conical summit, frowns +over the town in ruined grandeur, and is backed with the vast and +wonderful range of lime-stone, which forms a ridge stratum super stratum, +and is called the Eglwyseg Rocks. A portion of these rocks, with the +little tumulus-like hill of Pen y Coed, forms the eastern barrier. On +the west, the lofty Gerant, {7} or Moel y Barbwr, with the Bwlch Coedd +Herddyn, and other distant mountains, close the scene. + +The sacred Dee, which here foams along its rocky bed, is crossed by a +stone bridge at the western extremity of the town; the church stands in +the centre; and at the east end is Plas Newydd, the residence of the two +highly respected ladies whom Miss Seward has recorded in song. + +Having thus given a brief sketch of Llangollen, embosomed as it is in a +vale where all the beauties of nature seem to concentre, I shall proceed +to retrace and fill up the outline of the picture, by classing under the +name of each remarkable place its description, and the particulars of its +history, quoting from and referring to authorities as I proceed; but as, +from the varied scenery and the romantic views with which this +neighbourhood abounds, an attempt to do justice to its several beauties +would be vain, I shall abstain from endeavouring fully to describe what +requires a more nervous hand than mine to paint; leaving to the reader’s +taste full scope to select the scenes most congenial to his disposition, +assuring him, that whether the dreary waste, over whose vast plains +sterility and barrenness hold eternal sway; or the luxuriance of verdant +meads and shady groves—the sombre haunts of secluded retirement; or the +soul-inspiring gaiety of nature in her most lightsome mood—be most in +unison with his frame of mind, here may be found solace for the +melancholy, amusement for the gay, exercise for the naturalist, and food +for the antiquarian and philosopher. + +As a commencement of my proposed tour, I shall now beg my reader to +accompany me on the north side of the Dee, to Clawdd Offa, or Offa’s +Dyke, the ancient boundary of this part of the Principality. + + + + +Clawdd Offa. + + + “The best concerted schemes men lay for fame + Die fast away.”— + + “O lamentable sight! at once + The labours of whole ages lumber down, + A hideous and misshapen mass of ruin.” + +OFFA was the eleventh King of Mercia, and succeeded Ethelbald, A.D. 757. +He was born deaf, lame, and blind. About the year 776, {11a} he caused a +deep ditch and rampire to be made across the country, to curb the +incursions of the Welch, beginning at the waters of the Dee, at +Basingwerke Abbey, in Flintshire, to the river Wye, in Herefordshire; +{11b} or, as some say, to the Severn sea. Like the famous wall of China, +it is carried over rivers, rocks, valleys, and mountains, and extends +nearly one hundred miles. {12a} I intend to commence my excursion with +this ancient Dyke, and pursue it as far as is consistent with my plan. +It runs through the parish of Ruabon, which is on the west side. + + + + +Ruabon, or Rhiwabon, + + +Is a neat pleasant village, about six miles east of Llangollen. It is +surrounded by mines of coal, ironstone, &c. with which the neighbourhood +abounds. One of the recently formed joint stock companies, denominated +the British Iron Company, is said to have expended on two works in this +neighbourhood £134,952. {12b} There are also other large ironworks, &c. +within about two miles of the town. + +The church is dedicated to St. Mary, and is a very respectable ancient +structure. It has an excellent organ, and a pretty font of white marble, +both given by the late Sir W. W. Wynn, Bart. who has left behind him a +character for beneficence that has been rarely if ever equalled. This is +the burial-place of the highly respected family of Wynnstay; and in the +church are some ancient monumental remembrances, as well as some more +recently erected ones, of Sir W. W. Wynn’s ancestors, well worthy +inspection. Dr. Powel, from whose celebrated translation of the +Chronicle of Caradoc of Llancarvan I have obtained much information, was +Vicar of Ruabon in 1571, and was buried here. The monumental records of +Sir W. W. Wynn’s family are highly panegyrical; but I cannot in this +small work give copies of the epitaphs, and to record the good deeds of +this excellent family would fill a folio. + +Adjoining the town of Ruabon, a road passes into the park, and to the +mansion, of + + + + +Wynnstay, + + +The hereditary estate of the ancient and honourable family of Sir Watkyn +Williams Wynn, Bart. A porter resides at a small house on the left side +of the entrance to the park, who admits all strangers requesting it. A +beautiful road leads to the mansion, and large herds of deer exhibit +their graceful forms and agility among the surrounding trees. Offa’s +Dyke runs through the grounds, which are of very great extent, well +wooded, tastefully laid out, and kept in nice order. The house is very +extensive, and the stables also capacious. The premises have acquired +their present magnitude by various additions made at different times by +the possessors. + +In the eleventh century it was the residence of Madog Gryffydd Mailor, +{15a} Lord of Bromfield, and of Dinas Bran, near Llangollen. It was then +called Wattstay, from another old dyke still visible, named Watt’s Dyke; +and the space between that and Offa’s Dyke was a sort of neutral +territory, on which the Welch and Saxons used to traffic with each other. +{15b} When the noble family of the Wynns became its possessors, the +original name was changed to Wynnstay. The house is replete with +elegance and convenience, and is the seat of hospitality as unbounded as +the benevolence of its owner’s heart. Under the auspices of the late and +present noble possessors, both the edifice and grounds have nearly +attained the ne plus ultra of perfection; yet at this time a vast +addition is making to the magnitude of the park, by changing the +direction of the road to Oswestry. In short, Wynnstay is one of the most +beautiful seats, not only in Wales, but even in the United Kingdom. + +In the park stands a fluted freestone column, erected to the memory of +the late Sir W. W. Wynn, Bart. by his mother, who survived him. The +elevation, after a design by Wyatt, is about one hundred feet, and is +surmounted by a bronze urn. The base also is of bronze, decorated with +eagles and oak leaves, and bears this inscription:— + + “Filio optimo, mater, eheu! superstes.” + +Which may be thus translated:— + + “A surviving mother, alas! to the best of sons.” + +A spiral staircase runs within the pillar to the top, from whence is a +fine view of the park and grounds. + +There are other recently erected decorative buildings on the domain; one +of which, called Waterloo Tower, and built to commemorate the glorious +victory obtained at Waterloo by the Duke of Wellington, commands a very +extensive prospect: on it a flag is always displayed when Sir Watkyn is +at Wynnstay. Another tower is built on a most beautiful spot on the bank +of the Dee, called Nant y Bellan, i.e. the Dale of the Martin; and was +erected, as I learn from the Oration in the Ellesmere Report, p. 24, to +the memory of those ancient Britons who fell in quelling a dangerous +rebellion in a neighbouring island, now more closely united to us. Near +this place a boat is kept for the purpose of crossing the river. + +From the old house a road is continued on the rampire of Offa’s Dyke for +nearly two miles, and bears the whimsical title of Llwybr y Cath, i.e. +Cat’s Path, although it is wide enough for two carriages to pass abreast. +The ardent and inquisitive traveller will find in the interesting domain +of Wynnstay much to examine, much to amuse, and much to admire. + +Returning through the park to the high road, I crossed the Dee over a +recently erected iron bridge; and entering the parish of Chirk, I soon +regained Offa’s Dyke, the peculiar features of which plainly distinguish +it. The Dyke crosses the road to London about two hundred yards to the +west of Whitehurst’s new toll gate, and about four miles and a half from +Llangollen. Pursuing the line of the Dyke towards Chirk Castle, I found +in it a number of large and long grey stones, mossed over, and lying +confusedly at the bottom. They are very remarkable, as there are no +quarries in the neighbourhood, from which such stones could be procured; +and as they all lay in one spot, I conjecture that they have been used to +mark the graves of the slain in the year 1165, when Henry II. made his +first expedition against North Wales, by way of the Berwyn Mountains:—“He +assembled a large army at Oswelt Tree, and detached a number of men to +try the passes into Wales. There was a narrow way through the Dyke, near +Castell Crogen, now Chirk Castle; they were set upon by a party of +Welchmen, as they would have passed this strait, and many of them were +there slain, and buried in that ditch; where (says my Author) their +graves are now (i.e. 1697) to be seen.” {20} + +The place was called Adwy’r Beddau, i.e. Pass of the Graves. There is a +field or two near the place still called Tir a Beddau, i.e. Land, or +Field of the Dead. I visited this place, and found the field under +cultivation; and it is possible that the stones may have been removed out +of the way of the plough, to the place where they now lie. On examining +an old survey of Chirk Lordship, I found two or three parcels of land +lying contiguous to each other, and on each side of the Dyke, at this +place, bearing the same name, Tir y Beddau. + +From this field of the dead I bent my way along the Dyke, through +bramble, bush, and brier, to the no small disturbance of its numerous +inhabitants, the nimble squirrels, the rabbits, and the pheasants, +springing before me every thirty or forty yards. At length I arrived at +the brink of a sheet of water called the pool, on which numbers of wild +ducks, coots, and other aquatic birds were disporting. The ditch and +rampire continued through the middle of that pool, and the rampire is +still traceable from the boat house on the opposite side; and running +along the ley in front of Chirk Castle to a wood yard on the west side of +it, it again deepens, and assumes its form. As it approaches the Ceiriog +river, which skirts the south side of the park, it appears indeed a +barrier. I took the depth a little from the farm or wood yard, and found +it about fifty feet, a little farther on sixty feet, and near its +termination at Pont Melin y Castell, or the Castle Mill, it is about +eighty feet. At this point there is a bridge over the river, up whose +banks, at about half a mile distance, is a farm still retaining the name +of Crogen Isaf, or Lower Crogen. + +In the bank of limestone rock below the bridge, and on the side of the +river, is a cavern or subterraneous passage, of unknown extent, and which +I have not had opportunity to explore. Above Crogen Isaf, and near a +bridge of very capacious span across the Ceiriog, called Pont Madoc, a +powder mill was about to be erected; but when the work was nearly +completed, the projector became unable to proceed, and it was +discontinued. + +Thinking it best not to break the narrative of my progress along the +ancient Dyke, by which I passed so near to the venerable Castle of Chirk, +I have hitherto purposely omitted an account of that celebrated mansion. +I shall now, however, return to it. + + + + +Chirk Castle. + + +This noble and ancient pile was built on the site of Castell Crogen, +about the year 1011. I must here hazard a conjecture concerning this +Castle. I am of opinion that the old Castle of Crogen was then enlarged +and repaired, not entirely rebuilt; as John Myddleton, who communicated a +paper to the Society of Antiquarians on the subject, says it was begun +A.D. 1011, and was finished in 1013, which makes it only about two years, +probably too short a period for the total re-erection of so large an +edifice. + +The building is square, and is flanked by four massive bastions or +rounders, one at each corner. There is a fifth in the centre of the +front, of the same dimensions as the others. The length of the front is +about two hundred and fifty feet; the square court or quadrangle within +the walls is about one hundred and sixty-five feet, by one hundred. The +grand entrance is under a lofty arched gateway; the side entrance is by a +double flight of stone stairs, through a postern and colonnade, into the +quadrangle. I measured the walls of the north-west bastion, and found +them more than fourteen feet thick, and all apparently of solid masonry. +The whole of this extensive and ponderous building is of hewn stone. + +On the west side of the quadrangle is the door of the dungeon, which in +feudal times has been the melancholy abode of many hapless victims, who +fell under their Lord’s displeasure. There is at the entrance a case or +hollow in the thickness of the wall, for a portcullis; and there are two +places of confinement, one below the other. The first is not formed so +far below the surface of the earth as totally to exclude the light of +day; it being admitted obliquely from above. There is also a fire-place; +so that it is probable this might be a prison for less serious crimes, or +for delinquents of noble quality. The deep dungeon is far below the +first, the descent to it being by forty-two steps; and is said to be as +deep as the walls are high. It is small and circular, and about twelve +or fourteen yards in circumference. The iron doors are now taken away, +and one of oak is substituted, which bears upon it numberless notches, +not, like those of Sterne’s captive, made to mark the days of misery, but +the number of horns of strong ale drank at one sitting by a party +assembled in this place to drink to the health of the Lord of the Castle. +It is a record of the strength of their heads, if not of their attachment +to their Lord. High up in the wall are two iron hooks, fixed to support +a large cheese, which was formerly kept here for the entertainment of +those who chose to visit this gloomy place. The sides of the dungeon are +partly formed of the rock on which the Castle is founded, as is also the +floor. + +Returning to the light of the sun, on the adjoining south side of the +quadrangle is the servants’ hall, in which are deposited various ancient +and family relics. The walls are hung round with boar spears, pikes, and +halberts; arquebuses, matchlocks, and other old fire-arms; saddles, +spurs, and various pieces of armour; enormous and curious spoils of the +chace, &c. + +Among a variety of deer antlers, is the head of a stag, of which the +following curious story is told:—A young woman, crossing the Black Park +at the early dawn of morning, was assailed by this furious animal. Her +cries for assistance were heard by one of the numerous retainers of the +Castle, whose dwelling was nigh, and he promptly ran to her aid. The +stag, no way intimidated, made fiercely at the man, and literally gored +him to death. The Black Park is now converted into an extensive +colliery. + +Opposite to the servants’ hall is the main entrance into the Castle from +the quadrangle. In the large and lofty entrance hall are some fine +paintings, and a superb billiard table. The grand stairs front the +entrance, and lead to the stately apartments of the Castle, which have +been lately renovated in a superior style of elegance by Mrs. Biddulph, +the present inheritor. A saloon, a gallery, and a drawing-room, in +particular, are beautifully finished, and banish from the mind the idea +of a gloomy Castle, which its exterior seems to promise. + +The rooms are enriched with some good paintings; and in the saloon are +some finely executed portraits of the family. In this room there is a +cabinet of most exquisite workmanship. The views from the different +windows are inexpressibly beautiful, and are said to embrace a prospect +extending into seventeen counties. + +In the civil wars this Castle was besieged by Cromwell’s adherents, and +one of its sides, with three of its towers, overthrown. It is mentioned +as a prodigious exertion of labour, and in which no cost was spared, that +the wing was rebuilt in one year, at the expense of eighty thousand +pounds; which I think strengthens my idea of the present Castle being +only an enlargement and repair of the more ancient Castell Crogen. + +About a mile and a half from the Castle, stands the pleasant little +village of + + + + +Chirk. + + +It is an example of simple neatness and good taste. The cottages are +built in the Swiss style, with singular rustic elegance, and have the +appearance of comfort and quiet. The inhabitants are mainly indebted for +the beauty of their rustic cottages to the Countess Dungannon of +Brynkinallt, and for the uniformity and useful convenience of water in +every house, which is conveyed by leaden pipes, to the exertions and +influence of Mrs. Myddelton Biddulph, the owner of the Castle, and the +elder branch of the much-respected family of the Myddeltons. She is Lady +of the Manor of Chirk, and has built and endowed a school for the +education of the village children. Her exertions to promote the comfort +and interest of her tenantry are worthy imitation. + +Near the church, and now enclosed in a garden, stands an artificial +mount, which Mr. Pennant conjectures to be coeval with Offa’s Dyke. {31} +A similar one stood on the opposite side, where now the road runs. These +mounts were probably Saxon stations, and curbs to the Welch, to prevent +them from violating the line of demarcation which Offa had formed. + +The church is a capacious old structure, dedicated to St. Mary, and was +formerly an impropriation belonging to the Abbey of Valle Crucis. It has +a tower steeple, containing six bells. All the east side of the church +wall within is nearly covered with marble monuments of the Chirk Castle +family. A bust of Sir Thomas Myddelton, and another of his Lady, are +well executed. There are also many other remarkable _memento mori’s_ +within the church, well worth the attention of those who love to muse on + + “Names once famed, now dubious or forgot, + And buried midst the wreck of things which were.” + +I believe there are not standing within the same compass of ground in the +kingdom of Great Britain, three mansions so eminently deserving +admiration for magnificence, grandeur, and beauty, as Wynnstay, Chirk +Castle, and Brynkinallt; the latter of which I shall now proceed to +describe. + + + + +Brynkinallt + + +Is about one mile from the village of Chirk, and is the ancient seat of +the noble family of the Trevors, as I find in an authentic genealogical +table, of which the following is a short extract:—“In the reign of King +Richard II. there was a noble peer, by name Geofry Lord Trevor, and also +John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph, and Chancellor of Chester. He +continued in the bishoprick to the sixth year of King Henry IV. And in +the reign of King Henry VI. (1421) lived two brothers descended of this +honourable family, namely, John and Richard. John, the eldest brother, +was seated at Brynkinallt. He married Agnes, daughter and heiress of +Peter Chambre, of Pool, Esq. by whom he had issue five sons, who laid the +foundation of many noble branches. Robert, the eldest, succeeded his +father at Brynkinallt. He married Catherine, daughter and heiress of +Llewellen Ap Howel De Mould, and had issue. From Edward, the second son, +by Amy, daughter of James Ryffin, Esq. descended Mark Trevor, from whom +descended the Viscount Dungannon in Ireland.” From him the nobleman who +at present inherits the title, and the residence of Brynkinallt, is a +lineal descendant; and under his auspices, aided by the exquisite taste +of his Countess, this superb edifice has attained the acme of beauty. + +To rush at once into this charming labyrinth of delight would fill the +mind with confusion; and the beholder would be at a loss in what +direction to commence his observations, where every part claims his +admiration. I therefore beg my readers will accompany me about two miles +on the Oswestry road, to Bryn y Gwyla Lodge, a beautiful triumphal +arch-like entrance into Bryn y Gwyla Park, through which a new road is +now forming to Brynkinallt. This part of the domain is in Shropshire; +the interesting stream of the Ceriog dividing Shropshire from +Denbighshire at this place. + +As you proceed towards the river, whose sides are charmingly clothed with +forest trees, and whose banks are fringed with shrubs to the water edge, +the eye is caught by some of the pinnacles of Brynkinallt, and by the +blue smoke arising from the mansion, which seems playfully to linger +among the lofty summits of the luxuriant trees that adorn it. Proceeding +on the highest road, called the Green Drive, which runs along the top of +the Hanging Wood, whose majestic and venerable timber seems to continue +the luxuriant line of wavy branches to the very mansion, through one of +the natural vistas which here and there present themselves, Brynkinallt +bursts upon the sight in all its beauty, embosomed in the softened and +variously tinted foliage of the plantations which surround it. From this +spot the most interesting and picturesque view of the place is obtained; +and I believe it is the point from whence an artist of some celebrity has +designed a picture of the mansion. + +At the termination of this drive the murmuring Ceriog is crossed by an +ornamental stone bridge, at the foot of which, on the bank of the river, +stands a simple rustic cottage, richly clothed with ivy, and formed of +unhewn pebble stones. At this lodge is kept a key of the bridge gate; +and a bell attached to the gate procures attendance. Crossing the bridge +into Denbighshire, the elegant taste of the inheritor of the place begins +to display itself. New beauties appear at every step, as you approach +the house; pheasants feed in numbers on the smooth verdant lawn before +the windows, and seem to give an earnest of the quiet and security of the +domain. + +This beautiful place is thus mentioned by Mr. Pennant:—“From Chirk (he +says) I made an excursion to Brynkinallt, about a mile below the village: +this had been the seat of the Trevors. The house is of brick, built in +1619.” {38} Nor can I find more attention bestowed on this charming +place by any of the numerous tourists who have given an account of their +excursions to the public; and I am at a loss to account why this, the +most unique and beautiful spot in the neighbourhood, should thus long +have escaped attention. + +The house is undoubtedly the work of Inigo Jones, and was built on the +site of a former mansion of brick, either in the latter part of the reign +of Queen Elizabeth, or early in the reign of James I. The additions made +by the present worthy possessor are ornamental and useful, and are formed +so judiciously, and so strictly in character with the old part, as not to +be distinguished from the original design. I should call the style +demi-gothic; it is now cased over with mastic or Roman cement, and has +all the appearance of well hewn stone; and some think it will have equal +durability. + +The house is formed with a noble mansion-like centre, decorated with +minarets and pinnacles, and flanked by two low retiring wings, making +altogether a very beautiful and ornamental front. The grand entrance is +through a conservatory and viranda, elegantly decorated with choice +flowers and exotic plants. Over the inner entrance door are the arms of +the Marquis of Wellesley, Viceroy of Ireland, emblazoned upon glass, +occupying the whole width of the doorway, and bearing an inscription, +likewise painted on the glass, signifying that the Marquis presented this +painted glass as a mark of his esteem to his dear friend and relation, +Lord Viscount Dungannon. The execution is good, and does great credit to +the Irish artist. + +Advancing a few steps into the interior, the eye is arrested by the +brilliancy of the scene which breaks upon the sight. Immediately in +front, through the spacious hall, is a grand flight of stairs, terminated +by a richly stained glass window, and leading to a gallery that surrounds +the hall, and which is decorated with the busts of much distinguished and +eminent persons, as the King, the Duke of York, the Duke of Wellington, +&c. Up the passage to the left hand, the view is bounded by the superb +dining room; and on the right it terminates in a charming conservatory, +through which is a way to the pleasure grounds and gardens. From the +dining room on the extreme left, to the conservatory on the right, it is +about one hundred and sixty feet. + +To particularize or to give an adequate idea of the superb and very +tasteful decorations of every room in this elegant mansion is far beyond +my power of description; and therefore I dare not make the attempt. +Suffice it to say, that every nook seems decorated by the hand of taste, +guided by the most correct judgment; all is elegantly superb, and +chastely grand. In some of the windows is much old painted glass, +particularly in the library, where there are some very excellent +specimens. + +Here is also a valuable collection of china; and in one of the rooms are +some beautiful vases of that fragile material. + +The mansion is adorned throughout with valuable pictures by the old +masters, some of which his Lordship selected in Italy. There is a +landscape near the fire-place, in the same room where the china vases +stand, painted by Claude Lorraine, which is a most beautiful production +of that great master. In short, + + “Whatever in this worldly state + Is sweet and pleasing unto living sense, + Or that may daintiest fantasie aggrate, + Is poured forth with plentiful dispense, + And made there to abound with lavish affluence.” + + SPENCER. + +The beauty and elegance abounding in this place must be seen to be justly +appreciated; and the urbanity and gentlemanly condescension of the noble +owner, in affording me the means of gratifying my inquiries and +curiosity, will never be effaced from my memory. + +In the adjoining shrubbery is an ornamental building called the china +room, fitted up (it would be superfluous to say elegantly) by Lady +Dungannon. Within the room are deposited the most valuable and beautiful +specimens of old china. The walls are covered with plates, dishes, &c. +in many various figures and forms. There is a fire-place in the room, +and a small portable collection of books for the amusement of a passing +hour. In a room adjoining is an assemblage of cream-coloured pottery, in +its greatest variety; and behind all, is a cool, well arranged dairy. + +To some, and to ladies in particular, the examination of the china room +will afford the highest gratification. For myself, I must confess, the +exquisite specimens of art I had just been viewing in the mansion so +entirely engrossed my mind, that I could not look on these later morceaus +with the attention they merited. + +I have before stated that the river Ceriog runs through part of the +domain; and it is made to contribute much to its beauty. It passes +through a deep and thickly wooded dingle, and a rural and shady walk +winds along the glen to another entrance lodge, about half a mile from +Chirk. The way is enlivened by game springing before you at every step, +and rousing the attention from that soothing melancholy which the +umbrageous solemnity of the walk is calculated to inspire. + +There are four lodges, or gates of entrance into the domain, inhabited by +some of his Lordship’s dependents. They are all built in an ornamental +and romantic style; but about them, though so varied in design, there are +no disjointed or distorted features to offend the most fastidious. + + “And that which all fair work doth much aggrace, + The art which wrought it all appeareth in no place.” + + SPENCER. + +Brynkinallt, as well as Chirk, is on the English side of Offa’s Dyke, to +which I shall now return on my way to the Berwyn Mountains; observing by +the bye, that although this part of the country is called Wales, yet that +Offa’s Dyke, made in the year 776, cut it off from the Principality, and +John of Salisbury, in his Polycraticon, writeth thus:—“Harold ordained a +law, that what Welchman soever should be found with a weapon on this side +the limit which he had set them (that is to say, Offa’s Dyke), he should +have his right hand cut off by the King’s officers.” {45} So, as Harold +II. reigned nearly three hundred years after the Dyke was cut, it is +plain, by this law, that it continued to be considered the line of +demarcation at that time; and even to this day the bell of vassalage, the +curfew, is rung every night at Chirk, that is, on the English side the +Dyke; but is never heard at Llangollen, which is on the Welch side. This +goes far to prove that William’s English laws reached Chirk, and no +farther. Leaving the Dyke, I now return to the Berwyn Mountains. + + + + +Berwyn MOUNTAINS. + + + “Clouds rest on the hills: spirits fly, and travellers fear. + + “Where are our chiefs of old? Where our Kings of mighty name? The + fields of their battle are silent: scarce their mossy tombs remain.” + +RETURNING towards Llangollen by the old road near Chirk Castle, called +Oswestry way, the Berwyn Mountains begin to raise their lofty summits. +{47} These Mountains occupy the eastern side of Merionethshire, and +branch into the counties of Denbigh and Montgomery. Their southern +boundary is the river Tannant; their northern the Dee. Their length from +north to south is about sixteen miles; their breadth from east to west +varying from five to ten miles. {48} Their highest tops are Cader +Fronwen, or the Whitebreast, and Cader Ferwyn. On the summit of the +former a large quantity of stones, collected from a distance, and brought +here with much labour and difficulty, are cast round a stone pillar, +marking the burial-place of some chief, whose very name is now forgotten. + +These Mountains, as I have before said, form the southern side of the +vale of Llangollen; and forming a frontier barrier for this part of North +Wales, they have been the scene of many a bloody contest, and on these +hills the hardy sons of Cambria have successfully opposed the encroaching +armies of their Saxon neighbours. I trust my readers will excuse me if I +relate one of the most interesting events of that kind which took place +on this part of the Berwyn Mountains, and within my prescribed limits. + +Henry II. King of England, being exasperated by the repeated predatory +incursions of the Welch, {49} and by the advantage they took of ravaging +the English territories in his frequent absence, and finding that no +treaties could bind them, resolved on his return from Normandy to lead an +army against Wales; and having assembled a strong body of veteran troops, +selected from all parts of his very extensive dominions in Normandy, +Flanders, Anjou, Gascoine, and England, {50} and hearing of some daring +inroads made by the North Wales men, he early in the year 1165, put +himself at the head of this chosen army, and set forward for North Wales, +resolving to destroy without mercy every living thing he could meet with. +Having advanced to Croes Oswalt, now Oswestry, he encamped there, and +sent forward a body of men to try the passes of the Dyke and Ceriog, who +being met near Castell Crogen, as has been before stated, were there +defeated, and buried in the Dyke. + +It is probable that the victorious Welchmen were a party detached from +the Welch army; for Owen Gwynedd, then Prince of Wales, having heard of +the great preparations made by the King, had very prudently confederated +all the power of the country, and had assembled his forces at Corwen, a +very strong country in Edernion, and there awaited the King’s approach. +He had with him, besides his brother Cadwalader, and all the power of +North Wales, Prince Rhys, with those of South Wales, Owen Cyfeeliog and +Madog Meredith, with the strength of Powis; in short, all the forces the +Welch could muster. {51} + +The King, finding the Welch so strong, and knowing their fickleness, +stayed some time at Oswestry, in expectation that a confederacy so +hastily formed would as suddenly dissolve; but finding them firm and +determined in their adherence, and that his enemies were so near, he +became desirous to bring on an engagement. He therefore moved towards +the Dyke with his whole army, and pushed on a party to the Ceriog river, +which washes the foot of the Berwyn; giving orders that the banks should +be cleared of the woods, which at that time formed a complete jungle, to +prevent his troops falling into the ambuscade of the enemy. + +It would seem the Welch had taken the precaution to guard the passes of +the river; for the King in person, in an attempt to get possession of a +bridge, experienced one of those hair-breadth escapes which sometimes +decide the fate of kingdoms: {52}—A Welch archer, having marked the +personal exertions of the King, and fired with the hope of freeing his +country, chose a place of concealment, from whence, watching his +opportunity, he discharged an arrow with such deadly aim, that it must +inevitably have slain the King, had not Hubert De St. Clair, Constable of +Colchester, who was in close attendance, and whose name is deservedly +recorded for his devotion to his monarch, seeing the danger, rushed into +the course of the fatal shaft, and received it in his heart; thus +terminating his attachment with his life. + +Whilst Henry was thus employing his forces in clearing the banks of the +Ceriog, a party of Welchmen, relying on their knowledge of the country, +and prompted by patriotic zeal, attempted to surprise his vanguard, +consisting chiefly of pikemen, and the flower of the King’s army. This +brought on a very bloody engagement, although not general, which cost the +lives of many brave men on both sides; but the attack having been +commenced without any preconcerted plan, and merely from a sudden +ebullition of desperate daring, Henry’s veterans were victorious, and +making good the passage of the river, advanced up the Berwyn. + +In the mean time, the Welch Princes had advanced with their army from +Corwen, and had taken a strong position on the frontier ridge. A +fieldwork and entrenchment are still visible on the Mountain, over +Llangollen, and was probably the station of part of the Welch forces, +under Owen Gwynedd and his allies. Henry, finding his formidable enemy +thus advantageously posted on the crown of the hill, did not deem it +prudent to attack him in this position, and therefore encamped his forces +on the lower part of the Mountain. {55} + +In this manner the two armies lay menacing each other; the Welch +carefully improving every opportunity of annoyance, and from their lofty +and advantageous situation watching every movement of the King’s forces. +Henry used every means in his power to induce them to quit their camp, +and attack him, but in vain: while the Welch, by means of their irregular +adherents, cut off all supplies from the English, and reduced them to the +greatest straits and distress; added to which, the rain now fell in +torrents, and pouring down the sides of the Mountain, rendered the +English station so soft and slippery that they were obliged to retreat, +with great loss in men, horses, and warlike stores, leaving the Welch +masters of the field. + +The Welchmen, as might naturally be expected, exultingly celebrated this +triumph; while Henry, baffled and disgraced, and with all his threats +unperformed, gave way to rage, and added savage cruelty to his disgrace. +He at this time held as hostages Rhys and Cadwallhon, the two sons of +Owen Gwynedd; and also Cynric and Meredith, the two sons of Rhys Ap +Gryffydh, of South Wales; as likewise the sons and daughters of other +Welch Lords. {56} In the savage fierceness of his rage, he ordered the +eyes of these innocent victims to be pulled out, and the ears of the +young gentlewomen to be stuffed. + +From this digression, for which, as pointing out the places where these +historical facts happened, I hope my readers will pardon me, I now return +to the Oswestry old way, which runs near Chirk Castle. + +Not more than sixty years ago, this used to be the public high road to +Oswestry, although the capacious and excellent road which now skirts the +Mountains’ base would almost induce one to think it impossible. A very +respectable and old inhabitant of Llangollen informs me, that before the +road was altered and improved, some of the family from Chirk Castle used +to visit Llangollen once a year in the family coach. On the appointed +day, which was generally known beforehand, all the inhabitants were on +the alert; and no sooner was the rumble of the ponderous wheels heard on +the stones, than young and old, sick and lame, poured out of their +dwellings to see the wonderful phenomenon; and during the few hours of +its stay in the town, it attracted as much attention as a show of wild +beasts at a country fair. On its return to the Castle, the young men of +the village contended for the honour of assisting it to get up the hill +again; and this was the only vehicle of the kind seen once a year in +Llangollen, where now the most splendid and elegant carriages, from the +gig to the state-coach, roll along, amid these stupendous rocks and +mountains, upon roads as smooth, as level, and as good, as any in the +kingdom. + +The Oswestry old way is not now much frequented, but it continues from +Chirk Castle along the top of the Mountain. Many roads intersect it, but +the old road is very distinguishable. By the side of the way, rise two +copious springs, called Ffynnon Arthur. + +From the eminence the view is most extensively delightful, and amply +repays the trouble and fatigue of the walk up the Mountain. The curious +Aqueduct of Pontcysyllte forms a very pleasing and prominent feature in +the foreground of the landscape. + +As you approach the descent on the side of the hill, the stone pedestal +of a cross or pillar stands among the gorse on the left hand side of the +road, but the shaft is not to be found. Trees, planted three in a clump, +mark the road at short distances, and lead to the cultivated and +inhabited part of the declivity. {60a} Proceeding to the extreme foot of +the Mountain, on the junction of the Oswestry road stood, until these few +months, another stone pillar, or cross {60b}, called Croes y Beddau; and +upon it was rudely cut “_Oswestry Way_.” This inscription is of more +recent execution than the pillar, although it is also very antique. + +I conjecture these stones were erected as land-marks, and guides to the +traveller. An ancient way from this point proceeded to the river Dee, +which was then crossed by a wooden bridge. On the north side of the +river, nearly opposite the place where the wooden bridge stood, was +another similar pillar, called Croes Gwen Hwyfr. It stood on the road to +Wrexham, and has been removed only a few years. From Croes Gwen Hwyfr, +an old road proceeds to Castell Dinas Bran, by the Llanddyn, once the +residence of the Owens of Porkington, but now converted into a +farm-house. Through that farm the road passed in a zigzag direction to +Castell Dinas Bran, and the old road is still traceable, although in some +places quite lost. + +Before I attempt to give an account of the ancient castle, I must beg my +reader’s attendance to the Aqueduct, which claimed notice in the view +from the top of the Berwyn Mountains. + + + + +The Aqueduct. + + + “Telford, who o’er the vale of Cambrian Dee, + Aloft in air, at giddy height upborne, + Carried his navigable road, and hung + High o’er Menai’s Straits the bending bridge: + Structures of more ambitious enterprise + Than minstrels, in the age of old romance, + To their own Merlin’s magic lore ascribed.” + +THE Aqueduct of Pontcysylte is so called from a bridge of three arches +over the river Dee, and situated a little higher up the river. This is +the most stupendous work of the kind in the kingdom. It was designed and +executed by and under the inspection of that British Archimedes, Mr. +Thomas Telford, to carry a stream of water for the supply of the +Ellesmere Canal; to the proprietors of which, in the year 1804, Sir W. W. +Wynn, Bart. in the most liberal manner made an important donation of the +waters of Bala pool, as far as wanted; and to obtain that essential +advantage the Aqueduct was projected. {63} The level of the canal is +taken at a place in the river a little below the church of Lantysilto, +and about two miles on the west of Llangollen. + +The bank of the canal forms a charming promenade of about six miles from +its junction with the Dee to the Aqueduct, abounding with interesting and +picturesque scenery. Here and there snug little white cottages, peeping +from among the surrounding trees, decorate and embellish the sides and +recesses of some of the eminences; while the tops are dotted with the +little mountain sheep, scarcely distinguishable from the white stones +that are scattered upon their summits. The banks of the canal are +ornamented with trees, and embellished with bridges, &c. + +This Aqueduct, the most extraordinary structure of its kind in the world, +was begun on the twenty-fifth day of July, 1795, and was finished on the +twenty-sixth day of November, 1805; having been ten years and five months +in building. It is one thousand and seven feet in length, and one +hundred and twenty-six feet eight inches in height from the surface of +the flat rock on the south side of the river Dee, to the top of the iron +side plates of the water way; and there are nineteen arches of forty-five +feet span each. The piers, eighteen in number, are constructed of square +masonry, and the arches and water way are composed of cast-iron. + +At the south end of the Aqueduct there is an embankment of earth, fifteen +hundred feet in length, and seventy-five feet high. The water way is +eleven feet ten inches broad, and five feet three inches deep. There is +a broad towing-path on the east side, guarded by a strong iron palisade, +running the whole length of the Aqueduct; from the north end of which the +canal is continued for a distance of about three hundred yards, and there +terminates in an extensive basin, which affords a double wharfage, with +iron railways. + +I have heard of only one fatal accident occurring during the progress of +this arduous undertaking; when a poor labourer employed on the work fell +from the top of one of the piers, and was dashed to pieces on the rock +below. His suffering was of short duration, as the tremendous height +from which he fell caused instant dissolution. + +The Aqueduct crosses the entrance of the vale of Llangollen from north to +south, and the walks under and about it are really charming. The view +along the beautiful vale of the Dee from the top, in the centre of the +towing-path, is delightful, and to look down tremendous; and the river, + + “That on the unnumber’d pebbles idly chafes, + Cannot be heard so high.” + +Indeed, it requires a steady head, and a stout heart, to walk over the +Aqueduct, especially when the wind is high. + +On the twenty-sixth day of November, 1805, the canal was opened in the +following manner, as described by one of the acting Committee. He +says—{67} + + “In going over the Aqueduct and returning, the sensations varied. As + the procession of boats advanced towards the noble structure now + first commencing its public utility, the complete sense of security + in which we floated one hundred and twenty-six feet above the river + Dee, and a just acknowledgment to Mr. Telford, to whom it was + deservedly a proud day, and who had most happily arranged the whole + of our accommodation, as well as constructed the wonderful edifice + that supported us, naturally united. + + “On our arrival at the eastern bank, we entered the canal port. Lady + Bridgewater, the ladies of Colonel Kynaston Powell, and William Lloyd + Ashton, Esq. and some others, as connected with the Committee, now + attended Lady Eleanor Butler, Lady W. W. Wynn and her family, the + Hon. Miss Ponsonby, Miss Ormsby, and many other respectable visitors, + to a repast which had been provided; soon after which an Oration was + delivered. + + “On a signal being given, the cannon, which had been advantageously + posted on the platform below the rocks, and nearly on a level with + the Aqueduct, fired a royal salute. The guns were manned by the + Artillery Company, and were some of those brought from the capture of + Seringapatam, now belonging to the Shropshire Volunteers, whose skill + and martial appearance added much to the brilliancy of the day: they + saluted the Committee on their passage and return with fifteen rounds + each. After the repast and Oration, the whole company prepared to + return. + + “The procession of boats was as follows:—In the first and second + boats, the Committee; in the third, the band of the Shropshire + Volunteers, in full uniform; the fourth was occupied by the + engineers, the occupiers of mines and founderies, &c. with their + families. I was invited to take my passage with them, having been + engaged when the Committee set out, and could from this boat, as a + centre, better judge of the whole. The fifth and sixth boats closed + the procession, gaily ornamented with flags, and loaded with the + first commercial product of coal that had ever passed over the valley + on this noble bridge of union. The carriages, which conveyed the + rest of the company, formed a curved and continued line over the + bridge of the Dee (Pontcysyllte) and on both its banks. + + “The evening was calm, and the favourite tunes of ‘_God save the + King_’ and ‘_Rule Britannia_’ floated in the air, amongst the echoes + of the vale. Many (probably more than eight thousand) people were + stationed all around us, from the tops of the mountains to the banks + of the Dee, and were cheering and exulting, with intervals of silent + astonishment. All within sight or hearing were expressing their + sense of the general happiness. The whole valley of Llangollen might + be said to laugh and sing.” + +The following inscription is on the Aqueduct upon the side of the pier +next to the south side of the river:— + + The Nobility and Gentry of + The adjacent Counties, + Having united their Efforts with + The great commercial Interests of this Country, + In creating an intercourse and union between + ENGLAND AND NORTH WALES, + By a navigable communication of the three Rivers, + Severn, Dee, and Mersey, + For the mutual benefit of Agriculture and Trade, + Caused the first Stone of this Aqueduct of + PONTCYSYLLTE + To be laid on the 25th day of July, 1795, + When Richard Myddelton, of Chirk, Esq. M.P. + One of the original patrons of the + ELLESMERE CANAL, + Was Lord of this Manor, + And in the reign of our Sovereign + GEORGE THE THIRD; + When the Equity of the Laws and + The security of Property + Promoted the general Welfare of the Nation; + While the Arts and Sciences flourished + By his Patronage, and + The Conduct of civil Life was improved + By his Example. + +Returning from this stupendous work of human ingenuity and exertion, +towards the Castell Dinas Bran, + + + + +Trevor Hall, + + +A large brick mansion, presents itself. It is situated on a rising +ground, on the north side of the Wrexham road; and was once the residence +of John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph, who in the year 1346 caused a stone +bridge to be built over the Dee, at Llangollen, which is accounted one of +the wonders of Wales. + +Mr. Pennant says {72} “Trevor Hall passed into the family of the Lloyds, +and has continued in that family to the present time.” The last +possessor was a lady of the name of Thomas, deceased in the last year, +and leaving a son to inherit, although at present he does not occupy the +premises. The house is roomy and substantial, and is pleasantly +situated; but has no pretensions to elegance or beauty. Near the house +is a church, or rather chapel, of ease, enjoying Queen Anne’s bounty, in +which English service is performed on the first Sunday in every month. + +In a rocky cliff in the neighbourhood of the Hall, is a cavern of some +extent, in which I was informed there were to be found the petrified +bones of wolves, foxes, and other wild animals. Resolving to ascertain +the fact, I explored the place, but, whatever there may have been, I +could not discover the vestiges of any such relics. I brought away some +specimens of stalactites, of curious forms and various incrustations, +with which the roof of the cavern abounds, and which may by some have +been mistaken for petrified bony substances. This craggy ridge seems to +be the commencement of that wonderful range of limestone called the +Eglwyseg Rocks. + +Near to the river is the ancient house of Plas yn Pentre, now inhabited +by Mr. Edward Jones; and between Trevor Hall and the Dee is one of the +most beautifully clear springs of cold water imaginable. It is called +Ffynnon Yryrog, and is in very great repute as a bath for the cure of +rheumatic affections; and if Saint Collen with a long name {74} had +thought proper to have bestowed his benediction, it might perhaps have +rivalled its prototype at Holywell. Its issue is very abundant, and its +coldness exceeds belief: persons bathing cannot continue in the water a +minute. Many wonderful accounts are told of its efficacy in chronic +disorders. In its passage to the Dee, it formerly turned a water mill, +now in ruins. The spring rises in a field belonging to Plas yn Pentre. + +On the road side, between Trevor Hall and Bron Heulog, is a small farm +house, called Plas Eva or Evan. I notice it only as marking the spot +where formerly was a cemetery, retaining the appellation of Mynwent y +Quacer, or Quaker’s Burying Ground. It is on the south side of the +house; and in cutting the canal, the earth from the excavation was thrown +upon the old graves and the inscribed stones that lay upon the surface. + +Opposite the north side of the same house, a few years ago, as some +labourers were working in the limestone rock, they discovered a pot, +filled with gold coin. The men, afraid of losing their booty, kept the +affair secret, and deputed one of their party to dispose of the treasure +at Chester, as old gold. A rumour of the circumstance having got afloat, +an inquiry was instituted; but the secret was so well kept on all hands, +that only one piece, which a labourer had kept as a curiosity, with a +part of the earthen vessel that contained them, were recovered, both of +which I am informed are now in the possession of Lady Clive. The name, +date, or nominal value of the coin, I cannot ascertain; but a person who +saw one of the pieces describes it as being about the size of a half +crown, and very thin, with an impression on each side. + +About a mile nearer to the Castle, stands a recently erected mansion, +called Bron Heulog. It is only remarkable for the narrowness of its +windows and the nakedness of its appearance. Nearing the town on the +bank of the river, + + + + +The Vicarage, + + +A neat pretty edifice, claims notice. It was built a few years ago, +under the direction of the present vicar, the Rev. R. W. Eyton, who +resides here, and is in the commission of the peace. In both capacities +he does honour to the country in which he lives, as an able conscientious +minister, and an impartial and upright magistrate. + +Having thus given an account of some of the most remarkable features of +the country within my limits on the north side of the river, and on the +east end of the town, I beg my readers to cross the river with me to +Pengwern Hall, situated on the south of the Dee, with which I shall +conclude my account of residences on the east of the town, as it is not +in my plan to notice the many pretty snug and pleasant looking retreats +with which the delightful landscape is studded, the beauty and comfort of +which the traveller of taste will not fail fully to appreciate. Nor have +I much to say of + + + + +Llys Pengwern; + + +For mouldering time hath swept away much of its grandeur and its form. + +Llys, i.e. Palace or Prince’s Court, of Pengwern, is situated at the foot +of Pen y Coed, a tumulus-like hill on the east side of Llangollen, in a +well cultivated and fruitful valley, formed between, or rather of, the +bases of Pen y Coed, and the Berwyn. Little remains of the old house. +There are two vaulted rooms (the use of which I cannot conjecture) +standing at the end of the present house; and they are, I think, part of +the old palace. The roofs are formed with nine stone ribs, which support +a stone floor; for the rooms are one above the other, and the little +light admitted is through narrow loop-hole windows. There is no vault or +cellar beneath them. The site is extensive, and many old pointed gothic +windows appear about the dilapidated walls. + +The place is now in the occupation of a very respectable farmer. Sir +Thomas Mostyn, Bart. is the proprietor, in whose family it has been a +great many years. I find that “Tudor Trevor, {80} who in the British +genealogies is reckoned to be lineally descended from Vortigern, that +unfortunate King of the Britons, who first invited the Saxons over into +his country, married Gwladdis (some call her Angharad), daughter of +Howell Dda, King of all Wales, by whom he had issue three sons; from the +eldest of whom, Llwydocca, this family of Mostyn is descended in a direct +male line. Tudor Trevor lived about A.D. 924, and his usual residence +was at Llys Pengwern, in Chirkland, in Denbighshire; which site, and +lands about it (though the house has been long destroyed), is in the +possesion of the family to this day.” + +There is a stone which seems to have belonged to the old Llys, wrought up +in the door-way, with an inscription which I cannot decipher. The design +seems a rude figure of a sword, with an obtuse point, and the letters cut +in relief on the blade. They are many of them unlike the characters I +have seen, although some of them bear a strong resemblance to the Roman, +and some few to the Saxon. The hilt of the sword, on which was the +beginning of the inscription, is wanting. This is the only inscribed +stone I could discover on the premises, although I was civilly assisted +in my researches by the occupier of the house. From the appearance of +many of the windows, &c. I should almost suppose it the remains of a +religious sanctuary. + +Returning to the north side of the Dee, I must notice a small factory, +where cotton is spun and manufactured into cloth by machinery. It was +erected by a Mr. Turner. The main wheel is worked by a partial diversion +of the river. It has also a claim upon the Ellesmere Canal for a supply +of water, and affords employment for many of the inhabitants. The +builder and his partner unfortunately proving insolvent, the concern was +for a while stopped, and the factory stood unoccupied about five years. +It is now carried on by a very respectable firm from Manchester, and is a +great benefit to the town. The factory was destroyed by fire in 1814, +but being fully insured it was soon rebuilt. By means of an outlet from +the mill dam, a great quantity of fine trout and salmon are caught here +in the season. + +I shall now proceed to give some account of Castell Dinas Bran, to which +I had before conducted my readers by the ancient road from the Berwyn +Mountains and Castell Crogen, or Chirk Castle. + + + + +Castell +DINAS BRAN. + + + “Desolate is the dwelling of Morna: silence is in the house of her + fathers. The voice of the people is heard no more. The stream of + Cultha is removed from its place by the fall of its walls. Raise the + song of mourning, O bards!” + +THE Castell Dinas Bran, vulgarly called Crow Castle, is one of the +primitive Welch Castles. I shall not bewilder myself or my readers, by +seeking for the origin of its name, which so many learned men have sought +in vain; all their researches ending in conjecture: nor can I find any +account to be relied upon, when or by whom it was erected. + +The Castle stands, as hath before been shown, immediately above and on +the north side of Llangollen, on a conical mountain, about six hundred +yards above the level of the river Dee; {85} and is built on the summit +of the hill, which probably was leveled to procure materials, as the +building occupies the whole flat. It seems to have been about one +hundred yards in length, by fifty yards wide. The present remains are +almost without form: they are built of the silicious stone of the +mountain, set in a coarse mortar or grout, which is grown as hard as the +stone itself. There are here and there scattered remains of hewn stone +for facings, &c. some vestiges of a small round tower and a vaulted +passage, and also a very limpid stream, now almost choked with ruins. + +A room has been built within these few years, for the shelter and +convenience of visitors to the Castle; the key of which may be obtained +at a little white cottage half way up the hill, inhabited by a very civil +woman of the name of Parry, who conducts the visitants, and provides them +with tea if required. + +The Castle is conjectured to have been built by the Britons before the +Roman invasion; and was probably the residence of Eliseg in the year 600. +{86} In the absence of all authentic accounts, I present my readers with +a free translation of what I conceive to be a legendary tale, hoping it +will at least amuse. + +I find in the fragment of an old Welch book (from which the title-page is +lost), obligingly lent to me by Mr. Edward Morris, of Rhiscog, to whom I +am indebted for much valuable information, the following account of the +building of Castell Dinas Bran:— + + “The Duke of Difnal, or Cornwall, having conquered all his enemies, + was crowned King, and reigned in peace forty years, leaving at his + death his kingdom to his two sons, who were twins; Beli was the + firstborn, Bran was the youngest. They began to reign Anno Mundi + 3600, but contentions soon arising between them, they appealed to + arms, and called their friends and adherents to the field; and, + notwithstanding the persuasions and remonstrances of the chiefs and + great men of the country, a day was appointed for the decision of + their claims by arms. + + “In the meanwhile, their mother, the old Queen Corwena, obtained an + interview with her sons in her own apartments; when, placing herself + between them, she fell on her knees, her grey hair disheveled, and + her bosom bare, and thus addressed them:—‘O! my dear sons, look on + your mother, and for her sake forbear to shed the blood of your + friends; remember, it is the Queen who solicits you to peace and + unity; and remember also that the blood of those brave men who fall + in this quarrel will cry for vengeance, and a life for a life, and a + tooth for a tooth, will be required. Consider, you once lived + together in peace upon this bosom, and now this great kingdom is too + small for you. For God’s sake, and as you value my blessing, cast + away this fierce wrath; be not more cruel than the wolves of your + forests, and the bears of your woods. See how my tears fall upon + those breasts where you were wont to be cherished together. Do not + let me go to my dark house in sorrow. Throw down your arms, and + embrace each other as brothers, that God may bless the end of your + days with peace and prosperity, and crown your wives and your + children with comfort and joy. Amen.’ + + “The two brothers were so affected by this address from their mother, + that they both assisted to raise her from her knees, and intreated + her blessing. They then embraced, and drinking to their mother and + to each other, dismissed their armies. Beli went to New Troy, {90a} + and Bran took up his residence at a strong fortress, which he had + built near Llan-collen, {90b} and called Dinas Bran, after his own + name. + + “The Queen, returning to the portion of land which had been given to + her as a jointure, there built a small town, which she named after + herself, Corwen.” + +The following seems to be another version of the same story; and as the +Brut from which it is taken is by the learned translator supposed to be +the real Book of Gildas, {90c} I hope the antiquity and rarity of the +account will be a sufficient excuse to my general readers:— + + “Beli and Bran were the sons of Dyfnwal, and began to reign 667 years + before Christ. {91} A violent struggle arose for the sovereignty of + the kingdom, which ended in it being divided between them: however, + in process of time, ambition again prompted the two brothers to + collect their respective forces, in order to obtain supremacy; but + when the two armies were about to engage, their mother, the old Queen + Torwen, or Tarevin, rushed between the lines, and hastening to her + son Bran, who had long been absent from her, she tenderly embraced + him, and with many sighs and tears intreated him to be reconciled to + his brother Beli. Her intreaties so wrought upon Bran that he turned + all his thoughts to peace, and laying aside his helmet, he went + unarmed to meet his brother. A reconciliation then took place, the + forces on each side throwing down their arms, and approving the + peace; and both parties went together to London, at that time called + Troia Newdd.” {92} + +As Eliseg’s Pillar has given a name to a fertile valley, to a township, +and to the wonderful and stupendous Egwlseg Rocks, and which they all +retain to this day, I presume to ask, is it not as reasonable to suppose, +since we find it recorded that there was a British King of the name of +Bran, that the name of the Castle I am describing should have been +derived from him, rather than from a paltry stream bearing the name of +Bran, or from an insignificant bird; for Bran in the Welch language +signifies Crow. Might not, also, the streamlet of the Bran take its name +from the city of Bran? for I find in Richards’s Welch Dictionary, +“_Dinas_,” English “_City_;” therefore, “_Castell Dinas Bran_,” i.e. +“_The Castle of the City of Bran_;” “_Din_,” “_a fortified city or +mount_,” as Dinbrin, which adjoins the Castle Hill. Should these hints, +which with all deference I venture to suggest, invite others to a deeper +and more successful research, I shall be happy; and I sincerely wish some +one may prosecute further inquiry, furnished with more ample materials, +and endowed with a superior degree of antiquarian knowledge. + +Leaving apocryphal accounts, I find that Madog Ap Gryffydd Maelor, who +founded the Abbey Crucis A.D. 1200, and who was by his mother’s side the +grandson of Gwen Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, resided at Castell Dinas +Bran. {94a} He inherited Powis Madoc, and was Lord of the second +Bromfeild and Mochnant Is Rhauader. {94b} + +In the year 1209, Madog, forgetting his duty to his country and to his +prince, led his vassals and adherents to join the English army under King +John, then lying at Oswestry {94c} (Wynne says at Chester {94d}); where +he had assembled a great force, and with his usual violence and passion +had resolved to execute the severest vengeance on the inhabitants of +North Wales, and not to suffer a person to remain alive in the country. +But such resolves are sooner made than executed; and Llewellyn, Prince of +Wales, no sooner heard of these mighty preparations, and of the +disaffection of some of his own countrymen, particularly of the Lord of +Dinas Bran, than he issued his orders to his subjects in the counties of +Denbigh and Flint, to remove all their cattle and moveable substance for +a season, to the mountains of Snowdon; by which means, and by getting +into the rear of the King’s army, now advanced as far as the Castle of +Teganwy, he so straitened and harassed the English forces, that, after +eating their horses, and being reduced to the greatest extremity, they +were obliged to retrace their steps at that time in disgrace, and +breathing revenge, which the King in some measure executed the next year. +{96} But as I mean to confine myself to the history of the Lords of +Dinas Bran, I will not deviate from my plan, by noticing matter which may +be deemed extraneous. + +When John by his maladministration had quarrelled with his great Barons, +and thrown England into confusion, the vaccillating Madog, Lord of Dinas +Bran, again swore fealty to his lawful Prince, Llewellyn, who politically +overlooked his disaffection, and accepted his submission. This and some +other accession of force enabled the Welch Prince successfully to assail +the English, from whom he took all the castles the King had garrisoned, +and most cruelly and unjustly put to death all their defenders in cold +blood. This happened A.D. 1213. {97a} The remainder of the time of this +factious man, Madog, was occupied in rapine, war, and slaughter; and he +closed his turbulent life in Castell Dinas Bran, and was buried at his +Abbey of Llan Egwest, or Valle Crucis, A.D. 1236, {97b} leaving his son +Lord of Powis Fadog, Lord of Dinas Bran, and all his other signiorities. + +Gryffydd Ap Madog, like his father, partook of the character of the +times, and was fickle and turbulent. His father, Madog Ap Gryffydd +Maelor, had generally resided at Wattstay, now Wynnstay; but Gryffydd Ap +Madog made the Castell Dinas Bran his chief residence, and it is probable +that his confidence in this almost inaccessible retreat might strengthen +and encourage him in his waywardness. + +I find him joining Prince Edward, the son of Henry III. then King of +England, with all his forces, in the year 1257; and his disaffection is +thus stigmatized by the old writers: {98a}—“But Gryffydd Ap Madog Maelor, +Lord of Dinas Bran, a person of notorious reputation for injustice and +oppression, basely forsook the Welch, his countrymen, and with all his +forces went over to the Earl of Chester.” {98b} + +The following year, Llewellyn the Prince, returning from an expedition +into South Wales, met the Earl, and forced him to retreat with great +precipitation, leaving the possessions of his unnatural allies at the +mercy of the conqueror, who now resolved to be revenged on that +ungrateful fugitive, the Lord of Dinas Bran. He therefore passed through +Bromfeild, and miserably laid waste the whole country, and obliged +Gryffydd to keep close in his Castle of Dinas Bran, which, being situated +on the summit of a very steep hill, seemed impregnable to all the daring +efforts that could be used against it. {99} + +King Henry, being now much incensed against the Welch Prince Llewellyn, +on account of the obstinate resistance he experienced, and having drawn +together the whole strength of England, even from St. Michael’s Mount, in +Cornwall, to the river Tweed, marched with his son Edward in great rage +to North Wales, and without any opposition advanced as far as Teganwy; +but Llewellyn having taken precaution, as was the practice of the Welch +in cases of invasion, to have all manner of provision and forage carried +over the river, and having secured the strait and narrow passages whereby +the English might advance into the country, the King’s troops were in a +short time so mortally harassed and fatigued, that they were obliged to +return to England in haste, and with great loss. + +Gryffydd Ap Madog, finding King Henry unable to protect his estate, +submitted to his rightful Prince; and Llewellyn then passed to Powis, and +banished Gryffydd Ap Gwenwynwyn, who had also joined the English, and +took all the lands in the country of Powis into his own hands. + +Llewellyn, who was a politic prince, received the submission of the Lord +of Dinas Bran, because he knew that inaccessible fortress could not be +forced from him, and that it would not be safe to have an avowed enemy, +with so strong a refuge for his disaffected subjects, in the rear of his +operations; otherwise Gryffydd Ap Madog had merited banishment as much as +his namesake of Powisland: nay, Gryffydd, Lord of Dinas Bran, married an +English lady, {101} Emma, daughter of Lord Audley, whose father did much +mischief and hurt to the Welch, by bringing from Germany a body of +horsemen, who, by the uncommon size of their horses, and their unusual +manner of fighting, terrified and easily defeated the Welchmen at the +first; but when they had become more familiarized with their mode, they +took their revenge upon them, even on Lord Audley’s own land. {102a} + +All the nobility of Wales had solemnly sworn to defend their country till +death against the invasion of the English, and not to relinquish or +forsake one another; and the return of Gryffydd Ap Madog to his +allegiance diffused through every breast the hope of better days. {102b} + +From this time to the day of his death, I do not find that he again +deserted his Prince, but attached himself to the fortunes of his country, +although fears of the resentment of his countrymen for his former conduct +made him keep close to his Castle of Dinas Bran, where he died in 1270, +{103a} and was buried by the side of his father in the Abbey Church of +Valle Crucis; leaving his country in the enjoyment of freedom and peace; +the Welch having, by innate bravery and constancy, aided by the +fastnesses of their country, and the good policy of their Prince, freed +themselves for a time from the thraldom of their potent enemy. + +Mr. Pennant gives a different account of his end. {103b} He says that +“his wife, Emma, having alienated his affection from his own country, +made him an instrument of its subjection, and of the destruction of his +own family; for, as he took part with Henry III. and Edward I. against +his natural Prince, the resentment of his countrymen was excited against +him, and he was obliged to shelter himself from their rage in his Castle +of Dinas Bran, where probably shame and grief put an end to his life.” + +Be that as it may, Gryffydd Ap Madog, by his wife Emma, daughter of John, +Lord Audley, left issue four sons, viz. Madog, Llewellyn, Gryffydd, and +Owen. {104} Madog, the eldest, became Lord of Dinas Bran &c. He died, +it is supposed, not long after his father, leaving two sons to inherit +his property. {105a} The eldest, called Madog, had, by his father’s +will, Bromfeild and Yale, the Castell Dinas Bran, &c.; the second son, +Llewellyn, the Lordship of Chirk, &c. It should seem these children were +not of age when their father died; for Edward I. King of England, took on +him to appoint guardians to them both, and committed Madog, the elder, to +the care of John, Earl of Warren, one of his favorites; and Llewellyn he +intrusted to Roger Mortimer, son of Lord Mortimer, of Wigmore. {105b} +These men well understood the nature of the appointment; and it is +probable that Edward had maturely weighed in his mind the potency of +their enmity, who could be such powerful friends, and having then but +recently subjugated the country, he might wish out of his way two scions +of a stock which had proved so stubborn and so valiant. It was well +known that Warren and Mortimer had rid themselves of their respective +charges, and had possessed themselves of their estates, which they were +suffered to enjoy without an inquiry being instituted respecting them, or +about the disappearance of their wards; but the manner of the murder of +these two unfortunate children has but lately been discovered, in a +manuscript in the Bodleian Library. {106} The guardian of the two boys +caused them to be drowned under Holt Bridge; and no doubt from hence +arose the origin of a fable which was long current in the country, of two +fairies having been drowned in that place. + +From the Earls of Warren the Castell Dinas Bran passed to the Arundel +{107} and other families. In 1390, Myfanuy Fechan, a descendant of the +house of Tudor, resided there, and was celebrated for her beauty in a +long ode by Howel Ap Einion Lygliw, a celebrated bard of that time. The +Castle was probably then held under the Earls of Arundel. It is now the +property of Mrs. Myddelton Biddulph, of Chirk Castle. The period of its +destruction is as completely unknown as the time of its foundation. +Eagles and hawks in abundance used to breed, as some now do, in the +neighbouring rocky ridge of the Eglwyseg, and + + “Along the narrow valley you might see + The wild deer sporting on the meadow ground, + And here and there a solitary tree, + Or mossy stone, or rock with woodbine crown’d. + Oft did the cliffs reverberate the sound + Of parted fragments tumbling from on high, + And from the summit of that craggy mound + The perching eagle oft was heard to cry, + Or on resounding wing to shoot athwart the sky.” + +The view from the Castle is not so extensive as might be expected from +its elevation, being bounded, except towards the east, by more lofty +mountains; yet the scenery is most truly grand and magnificent. +According to the plan laid down in the beginning of this work, I leave my +readers to their own observations; only informing them that the house +which makes a distinguished figure to the westward is Dinbrin Hall, the +residence of Richard Jones, Esq. + +Descending on the west side of the hill, and proceeding on the old way to +the Abbey Crucis, stands a neat house, called the Twr, i.e. Tower, which +I conjecture, for I can obtain no written document on the subject, to +have been a look-out or watch-tower belonging to the Castle; especially +as it is placed on the side most easy of access. Some additions have +been made to the Tower, and it is now a comfortable farm-house, inhabited +by a very respectable lady, of the name of Price. It has been a square +building, built of hewn stone, as evinced by the massive walls which now +surround the old part converted into a parlour, and by an old spiral +stone stair at the back of the room. + +The old way from the Castle to the Abbey has been much intersected and +crossed, especially by the branch of the Ellesmere Canal, and by roads +made to recently erected retreats and farms; among which I must not, +however, reckon the road to + + + + +Llantysilio, + + +Which is a place of great antiquity. It belonged of old time to the +ancient family of the Cuppers of the North, {110} so called even in the +time of King Henry II.; and by the marriage of a daughter of that family +with a Mr. Jones, of Llanbothian, in Montgomeryshire, it became the +heritage of the late possessor of that name, and is now inhabited by +Major Harrison, who resides in the Hall, a large brick building, bearing +a strong affinity to Trevor Hall in antiquity of erection. It is +situated in a pleasant valley, watered by the river Dee, over which it +enjoys a fine prospect. + +The Church of Llantysilio is dedicated to a Welch saint, from whom the +township takes its name. He was Prince of Powis, and was called St. +Tysilio. It is a neat little edifice, with a very pleasant church-yard, +and contains nothing very ancient in the monumental way; but there are +around it many very venerable yew trees, with their wide spreading sombre +foliage. I had the curiosity to measure one, and found it above twenty +feet in girth. The inside of the Church is, like its neighbour at +Llangollen, indebted for some of its decorations to the Abbey Crucis, +which seems after its dissolution to have been considered as lawful +plunder; and this circumstance in some measure accounts for its so speedy +dilapidation. English service is performed in the Church of Llantysilio +on the third Sunday in every month. + + + + +Vale Crucis +ABBEY. + + + “How many hearts have here grown cold, + That sleep these mouldering stones among! + How many beads have here been told! + How many matins here been sung! + But here no more soft music floats, + No holy anthems chanted now; + All hush’d, except the ring-dove’s notes, + Low murmuring from yon beachen bough.” + +THE Abbey of Llan Egwest, or Valle Crucis, so called from a very ancient +inscribed pillar or cross, the mutilated remains of which stand in an +adjacent field, and will next come under consideration, was built and +founded by Madog Ap Gryffydd Maelor, Lord of Dinas Bran, as before +related under the head of Dinas Bran. + +This Abbey was built in the year of our Lord 1200, was dedicated to the +Virgin Mary, and belonged to a community of Cistercian Monks, an order +founded in France in the year 1098. The remains of the Abbey Church are +the most picturesque and entire part. It was built in the form of a +cross, which was contrary to the form in common use before the twelfth +century. {114} + +This proves that Madog availed himself of the aid of skilful workmen, and +it is probable that the fraternity called Free Masons were employed, as +they were incorporated about this time, and were the chief undertakers of +such works. Their government was regular, and they were wont to make an +encampment of huts. A surveyor governed in chief; every tenth man being +called a warden, and overlooking nine. They ranged from one country to +another, as they found churches to be built. {115} + +The Church is built in different styles of architecture. The east end +seems the most ancient, and the three lancet-like arched windows have a +very peculiar effect. It is situated at the foot of a lofty hill, called +Fron Fawr, and a little stream runs at the back of the Abbey, skirting +its gardens, and turning a corn-mill in its passage to the Dee. The view +from the high bank beyond the rivulet (which is crossed by a rustic plank +bridge) of the east end of the Church and Abbey, is particularly +beautiful. + +On its front or west side rise the Berwyn Mountains; on the east, the +Fron Fawr; and the whole is so enveloped in beautiful foliage that it is +perhaps one of the most enchantingly secluded places in the kingdom. The +west front of the Church affords some admirable specimens of ancient +gothic architecture. The grand entrance has been through the ornamented +pointed arch gateway at the west end; over which is a fine gothic window, +consisting of three lancet-shaped arches, surmounted by a circular or +rose window, of eight divisions; but it is too lofty to admit of close +inspection, as is also the following mutilated inscription, which is +above it:— + + AD . . . ADAM . . . DMS fecit hoc opus. Pace beata quiescat. Amen. + MD . . . + +The rest of the last line is obliterated. The following translation may +not be unacceptable:— + + AD . . . ADAM . . . DMS built (or rebuilt) this work. May he rest in + happy peace. Amen. + MD . . . + +The letters MD seem to have been meant as part of the date marking the +time when the Church was repaired, and go far to prove the little +veneration shown to this once elegant structure by the neighbouring +people, and that its dilapidation was unusually rapid. Now, we will +suppose that the inscription MD means 1500, and allow that it was then in +complete repair, and that it was one of the first Abbeys dissolved, say +in 1538; for I do not read that Henry VIII. began his reformation among +the religious houses before that time; I find in Camden’s Britannia, +speaking of this place, the following passage:—“Save onely a little +Abbay, now _wholly decaied_, but standing most richly and pleasantly in a +vale, which among the woody hils cutteth itself overthwart in manner of a +crosse, whereupon it was called in Latin Vallis Crucis, that is, the Vale +of the Crosse, and in British, Lhane Gwest.” {118a} + +Camden’s great work, Britannia, was published in 1586; and from these +facts I draw my conclusion that it was ransacked and destroyed soon after +its dissolution, as I suppose it was— + +In complete repair, A.D. 1500; + +Dissolved by order of Henry VIII. A.D. 1538; {118b} + +Wholly decayed, as by Camden, 1586. {119} + +Of the magnificence of this ancient Monastery no adequate description can +now be given, and scarcely an idea formed of what it has been. The body +and nave of the Church are disfigured, and nearly choked up with masses +of ruins, and large and luxuriant forest trees, among which the ash and +sycamore are most predominant. The length of the Church is about one +hundred and eighty feet; the width I can only guess at, as the north side +is wholly gone. An author before me says the nave was thirty-one feet +broad, and the side aisle thirteen feet. + +In the north transept are the remains of a chapel, said by some to have +contained the tomb of the founder. In a wall in the cloister stands a +double benetoir, or vessel for holy water. The cloister is small and +gloomy, whose + + “Storied windows, richly dight, + Have shed a dim religions light.” + +The solemnity of the place, and the stillness that reigns, aided by the +subdued light of the moon, and by a vivid fancy, may conjure up strange +ideas, and + + “Still may imagination’s ardent eye + In the tall grove the sage’s form espy; + See him intent with sacred zeal to plan + Some moral lesson for ungrateful man.” + +The part of the Abbey now remaining is inhabited by a farmer, who will +show the premises on proper application. There, is a Saxon or +semicircular arched gateway in the farm-yard, adjoining a very curious +gothic window, well worthy attention. The dormitory or sleeping cells +were formerly entered by stone stairs from the outside, which have been +removed within the last two years. The floor of the dormitory is +supported by low massive pillars; and the arches which spring from their +capitals form vaulted rooms, in which the family reside. There are many +beautiful features in this interesting ruin, to amply repay the attention +of the curious, and the research of the antiquarian. The front seems to +have been extensive, and before it gurgles up a very pure spring of +water. The Abbot’s apartments were contiguous to the church, and there +opened from one of them a small space, where he might stand, and hear the +holy services performed below. + +The venerable ruin is lessened by every succeeding tenant, and some of +the recently erected buildings exhibit stones with mutilated devices and +inscriptions worked up in the walls. In one of the farmer’s bedchambers +a stone forms part of a chimney-piece, which is carved with running +foliage, and contains this imperfect inscription:— + + “Hic jacet Arvrvet.” + +This is the only remain of any tomb discovered. In digging a few months +ago in the farm-yard, to make a drain, at a short distance from the +surface were dug up the remains of eleven men, in a very small compass of +ground, which goes far to prove that this was the common cemetery of the +Abbey; and also a wedge-like stone, having carved on its front a hand, +holding a vine or olive branch, bearing fruit. The stone is now at Plas +Newydd. + +I have in my account of Castell Dinas Bran recorded that Madog Ap +Gryffydd Maelor was buried in this Abbey, A.D. 1236; and his son, +Gryffydd Ap Madog Maelor, Lord of Dinas Bran, A.D. 1270. + +Having thus given the best account I can of the present state of this +once noble Abbey, I now proceed to state what I can collect from +authentic sources of its Abbots and its endowments. + +Reyner, Bishop of St. Asaph, who died in 1224, bestowed on this Abbey +half the tithes of Wrexham. Abraham, his brother, succeeded him in the +Bishoprick in 1227, and gave the remaining half. {124a} + +Howel Ap Ednyfed, successor to Abraham, gave to it the Church of +Llangollen. {124b} The monks also obtained, besides these endowments, +the patronage of several other livings, as Wrexham, Ruabon, Chirk, +Llansanfraid, and Llandegla. + +The freemen of Llangollen made a grant in part of the river near their +town of a fishery to the monks of Valle Crucis; and, for want of a seal +of their own, affixed the seal of the founder of the Abbey to the grant. +{124c} + +The landed endowments were, in the year 1291, near the Abbey, a grange, +with three ploughlands, {125} a mill, and other conveniences, probably +the donations of the founder Madog; the granges of Bodhange, Tregam, +Rudryn, and Baketon. I have no means of ascertaining who were the donors +of the farms, but I find they had also the dairy farm of Nante; the +grange of Nostroyz, Convenet, and Grennychamt; also the grange of +Wyrcessam, consisting of one ploughland and some pasture, with thirty +cows, valued in those days at only thirty shillings. + +All these estates were vested in the Abbot for the time being, and formed +no inconsiderable revenue; but the title of the monks to several of the +livings was disputed by a succeeding Bishop of St. Asaph, called Y Brawd +Du O Nannau, or the Black Brother of Nanny, who obtained a decision in +his favour. The third of the tithes of Bryn Eglwys, or Egwestl, was, +however, allotted to them, in lieu of the patronage of Llandegla. + +The monks had also a dispute with the freemen of Llangollen respecting +the fishery, the former having erected works on the river, whereby they +caught more fish than the Llangollen folks thought came to their share, +or than abstemious monks could require. However, the affair was referred +to the Prince of Wales, and the fishery was confirmed to the Abbey in +1234. + +I will now lay before my readers a short account of some of the Abbots. + +Dafydd Ap Ivan Jorwerth is highly celebrated by a bard in the year 1480, +who says of him, and of his successor, Ivan, or John, that they lived in +great splendour, that they had four courses every day served on bright +silver dishes, and they drank claret, &c. He also commends the piety of +the house, and says that he was so happy as to be blessed by Abbot John, +who had three of his fingers covered with rings. The last Abbot was John +Herne, who received an annuity of 23_l._ per annum on his surrender. In +1553 this annuity, and others to some of the surviving monks, to the +amount of 10_l._ 13_s._ 4_d._ were the whole of the remaining charges. +{127} + +This is said to be the first Abbey that was dissolved in Wales, and it +remained in the crown until the ninth of James I. who then granted it to +Edward Wotton, created Lord Wotton. In 1654, Margaret Wotton was in +possession. She was a recusant, and Cromwell then put it under +sequestration to Edward Davies, the Cneifwr Glâs of Eglwyseg. + +The last possessor, Mrs. Thomas, of Trevor Hall, built a kind of +summer-house at the back of the Abbey, adjoining to a pond abounding with +trout. Here was a charming field for the display of taste; but, as in +the hut at the top of Dinas Bran, the opportunity has been lost. + +Leaving the Abbey, let us now proceed through the adjoining meadow to the +Pillar of Eliseg, from which the valley takes its name. + + + + +La Crucis; +OR +THE PILLAR OF ELISEG. + + + —“The time draws on + When not a single spot of burial earth, + Whether on land, or in the spacious sea, + But must give back its long committed dust + Inviolate.” + +THE Pillar of Eliseg is supposed to be one of the oldest inscribed +British columns now existing, and is erected in a field about three +furlongs from the Abbey, standing in a delightful valley, to which it +gives the name of Valle Crucis, or the Vale of the Cross. The spot on +which it stands is a gentle elevation, and is called Llwyn y Groes, i.e. +the Grove of the Cross. The pillar was twelve feet high, and inscribed +all round with letters. It stood in its place until some of Cromwell’s +fanatical soldiers overthrew and broke it. + +The pillar remained cast down many years, until Trevor Lloyd, Esq. of +Trevor Hall, reared its mutilated remains again into its base, which had +not been removed, and placed upon it this Latin inscription:— + + QUOD HUJUS VETERIS MONUMENTI + SUPEREST + DIU EX OCULIS REMOTUM + ET NEGLECTUM + TANDEM RESTITUIT + T. LLOYD + TREVOR HALL + MDCCLXXIX. + +Translated as follows:— + + “T. LLOYD, of Trevor Hall, at length, in the year 1779, restored what + remains of this ancient Monument, which had been a long time removed + from sight, and neglected.” + +The Cross, or Pillar, for it seems never to have had the form of a Cross, +is now little more than eight feet high. The old inscription, which time +has rendered illegible, has been carefully copied by that great +antiquarian, Mr. Edward Llwyd, {131a} and informs us nearly of the time +of its erection, as under:— + + “Concenn filius Cateli . . Cateli {131b} filius Brochmail Brochmail + filius Eliseg . . Eliseg filius Cnoillaine Concenn itaque pronepos + Eliseg edificavit hunc Lapidem proavo suo Eliseg.” + +Of which the following seems to be an exact translation:— + + “Concenn, the son of Cateli; Cateli the son of Brochmail; Brochmail, + the son of Eliseg; Eliseg, the son of Cnoillaine; Concenn, therefore + the great-grandson of Eliseg, erected this stone to his + great-grandfather Eliseg.” + +The characters resemble one of the alphabets in use about the sixth +century, at which time this sepulchral pillar was erected. Concenn and +Eliseg probably resided at Castell Dinas Bran; and a township adjacent +bears the name of Eglwyseg, as well as the stupendous and picturesque +mass of rocks that range along the vale, called the Eglwyseg Rocks, from +Eliseg. Brochmail, another of the persons mentioned, deserted the +protection of the Monks of Bangor at the battle of West Chester, when +twelve hundred of those unfortunate unarmed religious were cut to pieces +by the forces of Athelfrid or Edilfred, King of Northumberland, A.D. 607. +{132} + +Brochmail, whom I suppose to be the same the Latins called Brochmailus, +was a great prince in that part of Britain called Powisland, which was +then very extensive, stretching from the Severn to the Dee in a right +line, from the end of Broxon Hills to Salop, and comprehending all the +country between the Wye and Severn. He resided at Pengwern Powis, now +Shrewsbury, {133a} in a house situated where the College of St. Chad now +stands. He was a great friend and favourer of the Monks of Bangor, and +took part with them against the Saxons, instigated by Augustine the Monk +to prosecute them with fire and sword, because they would not agree to +the forms and ceremonies of the Church of Rome, and forsake their own +established customs. {133b} + +I was so fortunate as to meet with two persons who assisted in opening +the tumulus before the pillar was re-erected; and they gave me the +following account:—On digging below the flat pedestal in which the base +of the Pillar had been inserted, they came to a layer of pebble stones; +and after having removed them, to a large flat slab, on which it seems +the body had been laid, as they now found the remains of it, guarded +round with large flat blue stones, and covered at top with the same; the +whole forming a sort of stone box or coffin. The bones were entire, and +of very large dimensions. The skull and teeth, which were very white and +perfect, were particularly sound. My informants said they believed the +skull was sent to Trevor Hall, but it was returned, and again deposited, +with the rest of the bones, in its former sepulchre. By this it should +seem that Eliseg was not an old man when he was buried here, and it is +wonderful that greater decomposition had not taken place in twelve +hundred years. + +One of the persons who assisted at the exhumation is now a very old man, +and was huntsman to Mr. Lloyd when the tumulus was opened. He says there +was a large piece of silver coin found in the coffin, which was kept; but +that the skull was gilded to preserve it, and was then again deposited +with its kindred bones. I asked if the bones were sound; and he answered +(I give his own words), “O, no, sir; they broke like gingerbread.” + +I have now reached the limits I prescribed for myself on the north side +of the Dee, and trust I have noticed every thing most worthy of +attention. I purpose next to give a short account of the river, and +passing Llangollen Bridge, continue my route to Glyndyfrdwy and Sycharth, +once the residence of Owen Glyndwr. + + + + +The River Dee + + + “On scenes like these the eye delights to dwell, + Here loud cascades, and there the silent dell; + The lofty mountains, bleak and barren, rise, + And spread their ample bosoms to the skies; + While still the rushing river rolls along, + The theme of many a humble shepherd’s song, + And as it rolls, the trout, in speckled pride, + Springs playful in the smooth translucent tide.” + +THE river Dee forms a beautiful and interesting feature in all the most +picturesque views around Llangollen. Passing from Glyndyfrdwy down the +river, it successively assumes the appearance of the brawling brook over +beds of pebbles; the deep tranquil character of the gliding lake, +reflecting on its pure bosom the woods and mountains that surround it; +the rushing cascade or rapids, over beds of rocks, or through chasms of +stone. + + “The current that with gentle murmur glides, + Opposed by rocks impatiently doth rage; + But when his fair course is not hindered, + He makes sweet music with the enamelled stones, + Giving a gentle kiss to every sedge + He overtaketh in his pilgrimage; + And so by many winding nooks he strays + With willing sport to the wild ocean.” + +It rises a few miles beyond Bala, a town about twenty miles from +Llangollen, on the west, and runs through a pool now called Bala pool, +some say without mingling its stream. {138} There is no river in England +which has been so much celebrated by our poets for its sanctity as the +Dee; and Camden describes it as “riseing on the east sideof +Merionethshire, and forthwith passeth entire and whole through Lhintegid, +in English, Pimble Meare, or Plenlin Meare, {139a} a lake spreding far in +length and bredth; and so runneth out of it with as great a streame as it +entred in; for neither shal a man see in the Dee the fishes called +guiniad, which are peculiar to the Meare, nor yet salmons in the Meare, +which neverthelesse are commonly taken in the river.” {139b} + +The mazy windings of the Dee, embellished as its banks are with the fresh +green shrubs and plants which flourish there in great luxuriance, afford +a very delightful walk, independent of the great amusement to anglers for +which this river has ever been so famous. The trout are as fine as any +in the kingdom, and are very plentiful. Many men obtain a livelihood +during the season, by fishing in this beautiful river, which they +contrive to manage in their little coracles, a large kind of round +basket, covered with skins or tarpawling, and with a board across the +centre for a seat. It is amusing to see them waft themselves where they +please, with a little paddle in one hand, and a fly-rod in the other, +fishing every corner of the deep pool; and when tired, rowing to land, +throwing their boats on their shoulders, and walking with them to another +deep pool, where they again commence operations. + +Salmon come up the river to spawn; and although so many do not reach +Llangollen as in former times, owing to the new inventions erected on the +river to entrap them in their way from the sea, yet many of them overcome +all impediments, and reach their usual haunts. I saw last summer, at the +season when the salmon fray, or fry, seek their way to the sea from the +river where they have been bred, large shoals of these fish, and at one +time more than forty fishing rods successfully employed in a small space +of water near the water-mill just above the bridge. This fishery +continued in great activity for many days; the bait used being a common +ground-worm, or a straw-worm, here called corbet. A little fresh in the +river at length came, of which the fish took advantage, and proceeded on +their way, after having lost some thousands of their numbers at +Llangollen. + +The otter is found in this river, and, owing to the many fastnesses, can +seldom be destroyed. There are also numerous and various aquatic birds. +The rock-ousel, the kingfisher, the sand-piper, the crane, and a +duck-like bird, with black and white plumeage, which the inhabitants term +a cormorant, are very common. + +About a mile above the bridge is a deep chasm in the rocky bed, through +which the whole river, when not swollen, rushes. It is six yards across, +and bears the name of Llam Y Lleidr, i.e. Thief’s Leap, from the +circumstance of a robber, who was pursued closely, having possessed +sufficient agility to clear this space, while his unfortunate pursuer +fell short, and was engulphed in the roaring torrent, narrowly escaping +the loss of life, as well as of property. There is another chasm nearer +the bridge, still deeper and narrower, called the Cow’s Leap. + +The river runs over a bed of dark-coloured silicious rock, which is +sometimes got by the inhabitants for the use of building. The bed of the +river is consequently very uneven, which causes it to foam and rush very +impetuously along. + + + +The Bridge + + +Is a plain gothic structure at the west end of Llangollen, and consists +of four irregularly formed pointed arches, with projecting angular +buttresses. The bridge was built across the Dee by John Trevor, Bishop +of St. Asaph, and Chancellor of Chester, A.D. 1346, and was accounted one +of the wonders of Wales. The arches are of various dimensions, but the +only wonder I can discover seems to be the foundation, which is laid upon +the rock that forms the bed of the river, and is fastened thereto with +iron clamps. The bridge is built of hewn stone, and is, like most other +old bridges, very narrow and ill-paved. + +Many wonderful tales are related of the sudden rise of this river, and it +certainly is a very inconstant stream; but I cannot conceive it possible +that the water should ever have risen, as reported, so high as the base +of the parapet. There is another little bridge called the Chain Bridge, +about two miles up the river. + +I will now cross the bridge to the south side of the river. + + + + +Glyn Dyfrdwy. + + + “They look’d a manly, generous generation, + Beards, shoulders, eyebrows, broad and square and thick; + Their accents firm, and loud in conversation; + Their eyes and gestures eager, sharp, and quick.” + +ABOUT five miles west of Llangollen, upon the road to Corwen, and on the +south side of the Dee, the way being enriched by such varied and +enchanting scenery as will amply repay the traveller of taste for the +fatigue of the excursion, is Glyn Dyfrdwy, once the property and +residence of that famous chieftain Owen Glyndwr, whose birth Shakspeare +says marked him extraordinary. I will, however, here give a short +account of his life, which I trust will prove entertaining to many of my +readers, and plainly show that “he was not in the roll of common men.” + +Owen Ap Gryffydd Fychan, better known by the name of Owen Glyndwr, {146a} +was descended from a younger son of Gryffydd Ap Madog, Lord of Powis +Bromfeild, and of Dinas Bran. He received his education in one of the +inns of court, and became a barrister-at-law. + +It seems that about the year of our Lord 1395, he came into great favour +with King Richard II. who made him his scutifer, or shield-bearer; {146b} +and Owen was with the King when he was surrendered to Henry, Duke of +Lancaster, together with the Castle of Flint. {147a} + +Betwixt Owen and Reginald, Lord Grey, of Ruthin, there arose a fierce +dispute, about a common lying between the Lordship of Ruthin and +Glyndyfrdwy, and belonging to Owen, who now assumed the name of Glyndwr; +and who was held in great respect by his countrymen, having artfully +induced them to believe that he could “call spirits from the vasty deep.” +Reginald was at first conquered, and Owen possessed the disputed land; +but after the deposal and murder of King Richard in Pomfret Castle, and +Henry had mounted the throne, {147b} the scene was changed; as Henry +aided Lord Grey, who with his own vassals, and assisted by some of the +King’s forces, again dispossessed Owen of the land. Several severe +encounters took place between the rival chieftains; and although +Reginald’s adherents were more numerous, the wily lawyer was more fertile +in expedients. + +Owen, being apprised of an attack intended to be made upon him by Lord +Grey, here practised a successful ruse de guerre. He erected a number of +stakes in a bottom still called _Dôl Benig_, {148} and having clad them +in jackets and Welch caps, so alarmed Reginald by their appearance that +he gave up the expedition. + +At length Owen’s good fortune and perseverance brought his enemy into his +power. {149a} Having artfully drawn Reginald from his strong hold of +Ruthin, he caused his horses to be shod backwards, which induced Reginald +to advance, supposing he was pursuing a flying enemy, when he fell into +an ambuscade, and was suddenly surrounded by Owen’s forces, and made +prisoner. Owen then marched to Ruthin, burnt the castle, destroyed the +town, and despoiled the country. {149b} + +Prior to this success, Owen had laid his complaints before the King’s +Parliament, and John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph, and Chancellor of +Chester, seeing that no attention was paid to his petition, after a long +delay, ventured to expostulate with the Lords, and to caution them that +they did not, by slighting or neglecting Owen’s complaint, provoke the +Welch to insurrection. The reply of the Lords was full of contempt, +saying, “They did not fear those rascally bare-footed people.” {150} It +was subsequent to this time that Glyndwr, finding his suit neglected, +resolved to endeavour to redress his own wrongs, which terminated in the +capture of Reginald, as before related. + +This signal success drew to Owen many of his countrymen from all parts of +the principality, who urged him on, asserting that the period was now +arrived in which the prophecies of Merlin would be fulfilled; and that he +was the man through whose valour the lost honour and liberties of their +native country were to be recovered. + +Owen Glyndwr, smarting with resentment, and impelled by his ambition, +suffered himself to be persuaded to undertake the emancipation of the +principality; and in the mean time kept Reginald Lord Grey a close +prisoner; demanding ten thousand marks for his ransom; six thousand to be +paid on the feast of St. Martin, in the fourth year of the King’s reign, +and Reginald to deliver up his eldest son, with other persons of quality, +as hostages for the due performance. {151} + +The King, at the humble suit of Lord Grey (he finding no other means for +his enlargement), appointed a council to treat with Glyndwr, who stoutly +refusing to recede from his terms, they agreed to give him the sum +demanded. It is also said that Owen obliged Reginald to marry one of his +daughters. {152a} + +Owen, being thus amply provided with money, and joined by numbers of his +countrymen, now flew at higher game, and boldly attacked the Earl of +March, who met him with a numerous body of Herefordshire men. They came +to close action, when the Welchmen under Owen proved victorious, and the +Earl of March was taken prisoner, some accounts say by Owen himself in +single combat. {152b} With his freedom he lost above a thousand men, who +were most savagely abused after they were dead. + +Edmund, Earl of March, whom Owen Glyndwr now held in thraldom, was next +in blood to Richard II. and therefore it was not displeasing to King +Henry that he should be thus kept out of the way: nay, Camden says—“He +(Edmund) stood greatly suspected to Henrie the Fourth, who had usurped +the kingdome; and by him was first exposed unto danger, insomuch as he +was taken by Owen Glyndwr, a rebell.” {153} King Henry, therefore, as +might be supposed, turned a deaf ear to every solicitation made on the +Earl’s behalf. + +Now it was that Glyndwr, flushed with success, resolved to assume the +title of Prince of Wales; and treating the King as a usurper of the +crown, and simply as Duke of Lancaster, he caused himself to be +proclaimed throughout the Principality. The better to grace the matter, +he feigned himself descended in the female line from Llewellyn Ap +Gruffydh, the last Prince. + +His ambition now knew no bounds; and, by virtue of his new title, he +summoned a parliament at Machynlleth, in Montgomeryshire, whither all the +nobility and gentry of Wales resorted. He kept his court at Sychnant, +about seven miles from Llangollen, on the road to Corwen. It is now +distinguished by a grove of firs, situated in a beautifully fertile +country, and overlooking the Dee. A few scattered stones are all that +remain to mark the site where the palace of Owen Glyndwr once stood, +which his bard, Iolo Goch, sung was as large as Westminster Abbey. {155} + +About the middle of August, 1402, Henry, finding the power of Owen +Glyndwr increasing, and the turbulence of the Welch breaking all bounds, +resolved to crush their rebellion, and putting himself at the head of a +powerful army, marched into Wales. But the very elements seemed to fight +against him, the weather proving so extraordinarily inclement that the +King was obliged to make a precipitate retreat, without accomplishing his +intentions. {156a} The people attributed the dreadful tempests which at +that season occurred to the magic power of Owen, who found it his +interest to encourage their credulity. + +Edward Mortimer, perceiving the King had no intention of opening his +prison doors, and Glyndwr treating him with increased gentleness and +respect, fell into the scheme this artful and politic man had devised. +Owen Glyndwr {156b} was married to Margaret, the only daughter of Sir +David Hanmer, of Hanmer, in Flintshire (who was one of the Justices of +the King’s Bench, and was knighted by King Richard II.) by whom he had +many children; and at this time three of his daughters were unmarried, on +one of whom the captive Earl cast an eye of affection. Glyndwr at once +saw the advantage of this predilection, and proposed to league with him +against the King, and to cement this union by the marriage of his +daughter to the Earl. + +To strengthen this league, and make the proposed insurrection +irresistible, the Earls of Worcester and Northumberland, two of the most +powerful Nobles in England, together with the Scottish Chief Douglas, and +Northumberland’s valiant son Henry Percy, better known by the name of +Hotspur, were invited to join their standards; and these rebellious Lords +met at the house of Dafyd Daron, the Archdeacon of Bangor, {158a} and +there signed an indenture, sealing it with their own seals, to bind +themselves to assemble their forces, and join in putting down the King, +and for dividing the kingdom, vainly relying upon a foolish prediction of +Merlin, in which the King was depicted as an execrable moldwarp, and +Glyndwr and his colleagues as the wolf, the lion, and the dragon, that +were to pull the moldwarp down. {158b} + +This treaty, made with so much secrecy, and executed in the recesses of +Glyndwr’s dominions, was soon communicated to King Henry. Sir David Gam, +so called because he had a crooked eye, or squinted, or, as some say, had +but one eye, was a strong and faithful partizan of the Duke of Lancaster, +now King Henry IV. and consequently the inveterate enemy of Owen Glyndwr, +now Prince of Wales, at whose Parliament he attended, together with the +chief of the Welch nobles and gentry, but with very different intentions; +he having determined to put an end to Glyndwr’s rebellion with his life. +{159a} + +David Gam was the son of Llewellyn Ap Howel Vaughn, a gentleman of +Brecknock. His scheme and his purpose were, however, unfortunately for +him, discovered and frustrated, and he was immediately secured, and +ordered by Owen for execution; {159b} but many of his greatest friends +and adherents pleading for Gam’s life, Owen thought it politic then to +stifle his resentment, and to grant him both life and liberty, on his +solemnly promising to continue in future true and faithfully loyal to +Glyndwr. + +The promises of men in those days were frequently regarded only so long +as it suited their interests or convenience. Such was the case with +David Gam, who no sooner found himself among his own friends, and in his +own country, than he began to assail and annoy all the favourers and +adherents of Glyndwr, who being soon apprised of the practices against +him, and of the use Sir David made of his liberty, marched with all +expedition at the head of a small body of his retainers, intending to +make him prisoner; {161} but Sir David had the good fortune to elude his +vigilance, and escaped into England, where he lived for the most part at +court, not daring to visit his native country until after the death of +Owen Glyndwr. + +Having thus missed his prey, Owen set no bounds to his resentment. He +burnt Gam’s house to the ground, wasted his substance, despoiled his +tenants and friends, and by the rigor of his proceedings so estranged the +hearts of all, and created so many enemies, that it was reasonable to +expect that through Sir David’s means, or some of his emissaries, the +King would have information of what was plotting against him in Wales. + +Henry at this time, fortunately, had a small army assembled for another +purpose; and no sooner was he apprised of this conspiracy against him, +than, placing himself at the head of his troops, he marched them for +Wales, to attack the confederates before they had time to conjoin their +forces. {162a} Owen had not collected all his strength,{162b} and the +Earl of Northumberland, who was considered generalissimo, being seized +with a sudden illness, and confined to his bed at Berwick-upon-Tweed, the +King found the rebels under the command of Hotspur at Shrewsbury. + +The insurgent chiefs, seeing a battle inevitable, and knowing that +Glyndwr, with his hardy Welchmen, was in full march to join them (in +fact, he reached Oswestry at the head of 12,000 men on the very day the +battle was fought), to gain time proposed a conference, and drew up a +list of grievances to be redressed; but the matter ended in mutual +recrimination, and both sides prepared for battle. The numbers were +nearly equal, about 12,000 on each side, and the two armies were inflamed +by the most dreadful animosity. + +The battle began with the most determined courage. The King was seen +every where animating his troops in the post of danger, and he was most +nobly seconded by his son, afterwards the renowned Henry V. the conqueror +of France. On the other side the chieftains fought like men accustomed +to the bloody business of war; and the battle was fierce, obstinate, and +doubtful; when the daring Hotspur, supporting the high character which he +had purchased by so many victories, and seeking a personal encounter with +the King, fell by an unknown hand. + +The loss of their gallant leader was the loss of the battle. The fortune +of the King prevailed; and although on that day no less than two thousand +six hundred gentlemen, and six thousand common men were slain, this +victory served to confirm Henry on his usurped throne, humbled the great +Barons, and restored peace to England. Had Owen Glyndwr at this juncture +pressed forward from Oswestry, where it has been before said he was lying +with a fresh army, and as numerous as the English were before they had +sustained so severe a loss, he might have changed the aspect of affairs; +but at this distance of time a proper judgment cannot be formed. Some +historians blame him for his precipitate retreat into Wales, whither he +was followed by a part of the English army, under young Henry, who made +himself master of the Castle of Aberystwith, which Owen afterwards +recaptured. + +After this time Owen’s fortunes appeared to decline, {165} and the fatal +battle of Husk, fought on the 15th of March, in which Glyndwr’s son was +taken, and more than fifteen hundred of his men slain, seems to have +sealed his doom. But Glyndwr, although reduced, was not subdued, and he +continued a predatory and harassing warfare, most annoying and +destructive; sometimes making a sudden eruption into the marches, and +sometimes into the heart of the country; for now, the Welch having +submitted to the King, and being reconciled, Glyndwr considered his +countrymen his enemies. His skill in devices, together with his local +knowledge of the country, kept the Principality in a dreadful state of +fear and fermentation; and although he eluded every effort made to entrap +him, yet his turbulent spirit drew upon his country the vengeance of the +King, in the most severe laws that were ever enacted against a civilised +people. {166} + +Owen Glyndwr, once Prince of Wales, was now reduced to hide himself in +the caves and fastnesses of the country, to avoid the pursuit of his +enemies. He was concealed and supported for some time by Ednyfed Ap +Aron, in a cave near the sea-side, at Llangelynin, in Merionethshire, +still called Ogof Owain. {167} The danger past, he again blazed forth in +the destruction of a territory he had once aspired to govern; sometimes a +fugitive, enduring hunger, thirst, and every privation; at others +revelling as a conqueror, on the spoils of his countrymen and former +friends. At last his depredations became so general and so +indiscriminate that he feared every one, and became as “a wild man, and +his hand was against every man, and every man’s hand was against him.” +Being thus driven by his fears from society, he fled to the most solitary +places, and at length died for lack of sustenance. {168} + +Thus ignobly perished Owen Ap Gryffydd Fychan, commonly known by the name +of Owen Glyndwr—a man who, from trifling causes, had conceived more +determined hostility against the English, and had conducted that +hostility with more consummate skill, than any other general the Welch +had ever produced. In his early career he was uniformly victorious: he +was proclaimed Prince of Wales with the sanction of the chief men of the +country, made alliances with princes, and exercised his authority with +becoming dignity; but now— + + “Mighty victor, mighty Lord, + Low on his funeral couch he lies: + No pitying heart, no eye t’ afford + A tear to grace his obsequies.” + +Owen Glyndwr was one of those fiery meteors which Providence sometimes +permits to visit the earth, for the instruction of mankind, and to show +us the vanity of all sublunary things: astonishing the world with their +splendour, they blaze for a short time; and as suddenly decline, and sink +into obscurity. Such, in our own horizon, have been Glyndwr and +Cromwell, and in later times Bonaparte. Their course was brilliant, but +short; and as their greatness grew, so did their suspicions and their +fears; until, at last, life itself became burdensome, and the end of +their career was clouded by disappointment, misery, and despair. + +But Owen Glyndwr had more legitimate reasons to plead than either of his +compeers. Deprived of a part of his patrimony by power, and unable to +obtain redress by law, he took the law into his own hands, and had +recourse to force. Success produced ambition, which proved his +overthrow. + +Owen was bold, wary, and revengeful: he set no bounds to his resentment. +He made a smoking ruin of the dwelling of his countryman, Sir David Gam, +and thereby made him an implacable enemy. He was the cause of the loss +of one hundred thousand lives, {171} and of the destruction of immense +property. Many houses and other buildings were burnt and destroyed by +him; among which I find enumerated the Castle of Ruthin, the Cathedral of +St. Asaph, the Cathedral of Bangor, the Bishop’s Palace, &c. at Llandaff, +the towns of Leominster and Old Radnor, besides the house of Sir David +Gam, &c. + +It will be right to notice that Mr. Pennant gives the following account +of the death of Owen Glyndwr; but as he states there is nothing +confirmatory of Owen’s interment at Monnington, I have thought it right +to adhere to the older authorities:—“He matched his daughters,” says Mr. +Pennant, “into considerable families: his eldest, Isabel, to Adam Ap +Iorwerth Ddu; his second, Elizabeth, or as some say, Alicia, to Sir John +Scudamore, of Ewyas, and Home Lacy, in Herefordshire; Jane he forced upon +Lord Grey De Ruthin; and his youngest daughter, Margaret, to Roger +Monnington, of Monnington, in Herefordshire, at whose house some accounts +say he died, and was buried in the church-yard there.” {172} + +The prison where Owen confined his captives, and of which some remains +may still be seen, was near the church at Llansanfraid Glyndyfrdwy; and +the place is still called Carchardy Owen Glyndwr. He is said to have +died in the sixty-first year of his age. + +I trust it will be deemed a pardonable digression, if I now give the +sequel of the military career of that loyal and truly brave Welchman, Sir +David Gam. I have before recounted that Glyndwr forced him to fly for +protection to the court of England, where he continued in favour with +King Henry IV. until the death of that monarch. I then find him +accompanying his son, King Henry V. on his expedition into France, in the +year of our Lord 1415, at the head and in the command of a numerous body +of stout and valiant Welchmen, who on all occasions distinguished +themselves by their courage and conduct. {174} + +To Sir David Gam was assigned the important office of reconnoitring the +French army, on the approach of the famous battle of Agincourt. Finding +the French nearly ten times more numerous than the English army, he +replied to the King’s question as to the enemy’s strength—“An’t please +you, my Liege, they are enough to be killed, enough to run away, and +enough to be taken prisoners.” The King was well pleased with such an +answer from a man of Sir David’s valour. + +In the battle which followed, and which was fought on the 25th of +October, 1415, the King alighted from his horse to head his footmen, and +to encourage them to resist the charge of the second line of the French +army, then advancing; when eighteen French cavaliers, who had bound +themselves by an oath to kill King Henry, or perish, rushed upon him in a +body, and one of them with a blow of his battle-axe so stunned the King +that he would have fallen an easy victim, had not Sir David Gam, with his +son-in-law, Roger Vaughn, and his kinsman, Walter Llwyd, of Brecknock, +seasonably sprung to his rescue. They slew fourteen of the assailants, +and delivered the King, when they fell at his feet, covered with wounds. +In the heat of the battle, Henry was separated from his brave defenders; +but being soon afterwards informed that their wounds were mortal, he +immediately repaired to the spot where Sir David and his faithful +companions lay; and, as the only recompense in his power then to bestow, +he knighted them all three upon the field, where they soon after died. +{176} + +Thus ended the life of Sir David Gam; but the remembrance of his loyalty, +and the fame of his valour, will live, and perpetuate his memory. + + “So sleep the brave, who sink to rest, + By all their country’s wishes bless’d. + When Spring, with dewy fingers cold, + Returns to deck their hallow’d mould, + She there shall dress a sweeter sod + Than Fancy’s feet have ever trod. + By fairy hands their knell is rung, + By forms unseen their dirge is sung. + There Honour comes, a pilgrim grey, + To bless the turf that wraps their clay; + And Freedom shall awhile repair, + To dwell a weeping hermit there.” + +It is conjectured that Shakspeare took Sir David as a specimen, when he +wrote the character of Captain Fluellen, in Henry V. + +Returning towards Llangollen from Glyndyfrdwy, along a beautiful level +road, made at the expense of Government, with the Berwyn Mountains rising +abruptly on the right hand, and the murmuring Dee pursuing its devious +course on the left, I pass a small brook, which divides the counties of +Merioneth and Denbigh. A pillar on the top of the mountain above is for +the same purpose. The views over the Dee are incomparably charming. + + + + +LLANGOLLEN +Church. + + + “Hail, ancient edifice; thine aisle along, + In contemplation wrapt, now let me stray; + And stealing from the idly busy throng, + Devoutly meditate the moral lay.” + +LLANGOLLEN Church, which stands in the middle of the town, is a low +gothic structure; and the south side appears the most ancient part of the +edifice. At the east end, on the outside wall, are two knees, which seem +to have been intended as the spring of an arch, for an enlargement of the +building. The roof is slated, and there is a tower steeple at the west +end, containing four bells and a clock, with quarter chimes. + +The Church is dedicated to Saint Collen Ap Gwynnawg, Ap Clydawg, Ap +Cowdra, Ap Caradog Freichfras, Ap Lleyr Merim, Ap Einion Yrth, Ap Cunedda +Wledig, by Ethni Wyddeles, daughter of Matholwch, Lord of Cwl, in the +kingdom of Ireland; {179} which saint was buried here. In the Church was +formerly a recumbent figure in alabaster, vulgarly called Saint Collen. +The unshapely remains of this monument are still to be seen in the +belfry, where it has been thrown. + +The roof of the Church is supported with three massive stone octagon +Doric pillars, of great antiquity, and two heavy abutments. The roof +itself is very curiously enriched with carved compartments, in old oak, +supported by figures of angels, in various attitudes, also of solid oak. +These figures and the roof I suspect to be spoils of the Abbey Crucis, to +which the Church of Llangollen was incumbent. The transom beams that +support the roof are indented with tracery; and on the north side of the +beam over the north aisle, is the following very curious inscription cut +in old letter. It is so lofty that it can scarcely be made out +distinctly, but I have taken some pains to give it correctly:— + + “Y nav i ti mair vydd barod bob awr.” + +Which may be thus translated:— + + “Heaven for thee, Mary, will be open every hour.” + +I have little doubt that this beam, as well as the other decorations of +the roof of the Church, was brought from Llan Egwest, which it will be +recollected was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. + +There is a beautiful half-length of our Saviour in the window over the +altar, painted upon glass by Eginton, of Birmingham, with this +inscription under it:— + + “Nid fy Ewyllys i ond yr eiddo ti a wneler.” + + S. Luc pen 22 ver 42. + + “Not my will, but thine be done.” + +I believe there are no other Welch inscriptions in the Church, among the +many grave stones, tablets, &c. which abound; and yet service is +performed in no other language, except on the second sabbath in every +month, and on Good Friday. There are many English families now resident +in Llangollen and its neighbourhood; and to those that are seriously +disposed this is a great privation. + +The Church is well served by the very worthy and pious Vicar, who resides +at the Vicarage; yet, notwithstanding, there are four dissenting +congregations in the town, viz. Wesleyan Methodists, Whitfield or +Calvinistic Methodists, Independents, and Baptists. + +In the church-yard is a school, under which is a vestry-room, bearing +this inscription:—“This school-house was built at the expense of the +parishioners, having obtained the ordinary license, with consent of the +Rev. R. Price, vicar, 1773.” + +The customs of the orthodox Welch Church are similar to those in England, +except in the following, viz. that of bedecking the graves of the dead +with shrubs and flowers; of singing before the corpse to the church; and +the very annoying one of ringing a passing bell in the following +manner:—On the day prior to the funeral the bells are tolled in a very +quick succession of strokes; that is to say, twelve quick strokes on the +first bell, and after a short pause, twelve on the second; and so on once +round, the number of strokes on each bell, denoting the condition of the +deceased. Thus, twelve strokes on each bell denote the death of a +married master of a family; eleven strokes the mother or mistress of a +family; ten strokes an unmarried or young man; nine a young woman +unmarried; six a boy; and five a girl. Then begins an incessant +monotonous toll of the great bell, in minute time, which generally +continues all that day until eight o’clock at night: it commences again +at eight o’clock on the following morning, and does not cease until eight +o’clock at night, except during the time of interment. The usage at the +burial is also novel to an English observer. When the service in the +church is concluded, the officiating minister goes to the steps of the +altar, whereon a sort of wooden plate is previously placed; and the +attendants and friends of the deceased immediately proceed to deposit +money thereon in his presence, which is instead of dues. When the corpse +is consigned to the earth, the clerk receives the donations of the people +that are around the grave, upon the spade with which he is throwing the +earth upon the coffin; and this is his share of the fees. + +There is also an old and curious custom observed at Christmas, called +Plygan, or Pylgain, that is, “the time of night when the cock croweth; +the morning twilight.”—On the morning of Christmas Day, the bells are +rung as is usual to assemble to church, about four o’clock; and on their +ringing about six o’clock, most of the parishioners assemble, some +bringing candles, and the church is also lighted up. After the prayers +(morning service for the day) are read, the congregation continue, and +the minister also, hearing original carols in the Welch language, on our +Saviour’s nativity. This time and custom were formerly much more +seriously observed, when men believed + + “That ever ’gainst that season comes + Wherein our Saviour’s birth is celebrated, + The bird of dawning singeth all night long; + And then they say no spirit walks abroad; + The nights are wholesome, then no planets strike; + No fairy takes, no witch hath power to charm; + So hallowed and so gracious is the time.” + +Except two or three marble monuments in the Church, there are no other +remarkable objects; but in the church-yard are many very neat and +handsome freestone tombs. Some of those recently erected are in the +sarcophagus form, and are very nicely executed. + +Nearly opposite the south door of the Church stands a triangular gothic +column of freestone, surrounded by a light iron railing, erected over the +grave of a highly respected domestic of the Right Hon. Lady E. Butler, +and the Hon. Miss Ponsonby. The pillar is executed in good taste, and on +one of the three facades are the following lines, doing much honour to +the heart as well as to the head of the composer:— + + In Memory of + Mrs. Mary Carol, + Deceased the 22d of November, 1809, + This Monument is erected, + By Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby, + Of Plas Newydd, in this Parish. + + Released from earth, and all its transient woes, + She whose remains beneath this stone repose, + Steadfast in faith, resign’d her parting breath, + Look’d up with Christian zeal, and smiled in death; + Patient, industrious, faithful, gen’rous, kind, + Her conduct left the proudest far behind; + Her virtues dignified her humble birth, + And raised her mind beyond this sordid earth. + Attachment, sacred bond of grateful breasts, + Extinguish’d but with life this tomb attests, + Rear’d by two friends, who will her loss bemoan, + Till with her ashes here shall rest their own. + +The poor of Llangollen have much reason to pray that period may be far +distant; for the benevolence of these retired ladies is extensive and +discriminate; and it may justly be said there is not a poor deserving +object in this little town, who does not participate in their bounty. I +shall conclude with a brief notice of their residence. + + + + +Plas Newydd. + + + “’Tis pleasant through the loopholes of retreat + To peep at the great world—to see the stir + Of the great Babel, and not feel the crowd.” + +PLAS Newydd, situated at the east end of the town of Llangollen, has long +been the residence of two eminently distinguished ladies, the Right Hon. +Lady Eleanor Butler and the Hon. Miss Ponsonby, who came to Llangollen, +and after a time purchased the domain, and planted and decorated the +grounds. It has attained its present beauty under their own +superintendance. + +Many years have elapsed since these ladies withdrew from the world, to +which, from their rank and accomplishments, they would have been +distinguished ornaments, and secluded themselves in this beautiful +retreat, where they have uniformly been the benefactresses of the poor, +the encouragers of the industrious, and the friends of all in their +neighbourhood. The peculiar taste and beauty with which these noble and +highly distinguished ladies have decorated and adorned both the exterior +and the interior of their far-famed retreat, excites universal admiration +from the first characters and families, who are continually visiting +them. + +A palisade, ornamented with antique and grotesque figures, carved in oak, +encloses the front, before which a profusion of the choicest flowers and +shrubs is tastefully arranged. The entrance and the windows, which are +formed after the manner of ancient religious houses, are decorated with +carving in the same material. The entrance-door is unique, and a great +curiosity, being beautifully ornamented with well polished carved +figures; the whole of which are of black oak, and kept particularly +bright, giving the retreat a very uncommon appearance. The +entrance-hall, stairs, and passages, are chastely in character; and the +windows are ornamented with painted glass in the most appropriate manner. + +The gardens, in which nature and art are judiciously united, are +extensive, and display much taste. The thick and umbrageous foliage of +the lofty forest trees, that occupy a part of the lawn and gardens, is +the safe asylum of numerous birds, which in this calm seclusion revel +unmolested. A pair of beautiful wood-owls have found a safe and quiet +shelter in the trunk of an old ivy-covered tree; and on a lawn a little +further, is erected a pretty moss-covered alcove, furnished with a few +well-selected books: it is nearly in the centre of the garden, and is +open in front. The confidence of the birds is shown by some of them +every year building their nests in this recess: indeed, these airy +inhabitants appear to be quite tame and familiarized by the kindness of +their amiable protectors. I believe the birds have much the larger +portion of the produce of these beautiful gardens, as none of them are +suffered to be molested. + +Through the lower part of the shrubbery, a brook, called Cyflymen, i.e. +Speedy, murmurs o’er its pebbly bed, and is crossed by a rustic bridge, +which leads to a bank covered with lichens, and furnished with +appropriate seats, near which rises a pure fountain, whose waters are as +clear as the crystal glasses which ornament its margin: in short, the +beauty of the scenery, aided by a little enthusiam, might inspire the +idea that + + “Here in cool grot and mossy cell, + The rural fays and fairies dwell: + Though rarely seen by mortal eye, + When the pale moon, ascending high, + Darts through yon limes her quiv’ring beams, + They frisk it near these crystal streams.” + +The carved stone brought from the Abbey Crucis, and mentioned as being +dug up at the time the bodies were discovered, stands near the entrance. + + + +CONCLUSION. + + +I have thus completed the circuit I proposed at the commencement of my +labours. To hope the attainment of perfection in a work of this nature +would with justice be deemed presumptuous; but I trust any inaccuracy +will be treated with lenity, and that due allowance will be made for the +disadvantage under which verbal information is at all times collected by +a person who does not understand the native language. Thus far I can +with truth say, that, from a desire to combine correctness with +intelligence, I have in no case given that on hearsay, which might be +readily ascertained by ocular demonstration. + +With regard to the quotations which I have thought proper to introduce, I +must here again draw upon the kind indulgence of my readers. Not having +an extensive library at my command, I have sometimes been obliged to +quote from memory. This will also, in some degree, account for omissions +of which I may in places be deemed guilty. + +I will now take leave of my friends, assuring them that, if I have not +done all I might for their information and amusement, it must be +attributed to any other cause rather than a want of desire and endeavour +on my part. It would, indeed, be unpardonable in me to deserve such an +imputation, after having received so many marks of attention from friends +whom I have had occasion more than once to consult in the progress of my +researches, and being furnished with information from quarters where I +had not the least claim. + + + + +AUTHORITIES +REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK. + + +_The Brut_, _or Chronicle of the Kings of Britain_, contained in +_Collectanea Cambrica_, vol. 1, by the Rev. P. Roberts, A.M. This title +was taken from the _Book of Basingwerke Abbey_; which work the learned +author has translated and collated with _Brut Tyssillio_, the Welch copy +of the Chronicle _Gruffudd ab Authur_; _Collations of the Brut_ in the +Archialogy; Geoffrey of Monmouth’s _Translation of the Brut_; the +_Wynnstay MS._ and the _M.S. Chronicle_ of Mr. Jones, of Gelly Lyfde. +These books are supposed by Mr. Roberts to contain the genuine epistle of +_Gildas_, published A.D. 560. + +_Camden’s Britannia_, Philemon Holland’s translation, A.D. 1610. + +_Caradoc of Lhancarvan’s History of Wales_, first published A.D. 1150, +translated by Dr. Powel, and augmented and improved by the Rev. W. Wynne, +A.M. from whose octavo edition, published A.D. 1697, the quotations are +made. + +_History of Wales_, by the Rev. William Warrington, quarto edition. + +_Pennant’s Tour in Wales_, two vols. quarto, 1784. + +_Report to the General Assembly of the Ellesmere Canal Proprietors_. + +_The English Baronets_, three vols. A.D. 1727. + +_Cambrian Itinerary_, _&c._ + + + + +LIST +OF +SUBSCRIBERS. + + +A. + + +AVONMORE, Lord Viscount, _four copies_ + +Adams, Mr. George, Ruthin + +Allen, Joshua, Esq. Wenffrwd + +Andrews, Mr. Wrexham + +Androse, Miss + + + +B. + + +BUTLER, the Right Hon. Lady Eleanor, and Miss Ponsonby, _twelve copies_ + +Besborough, the Earl of + +Babbington, Miss, Oswestry, _two copies_ + +Babbington, Mr. Thomas, Oswestry + +Bains, the Rev. E. A.M. Llanderfel + +Barlow, Mr. Thomas, Oswestry + +Bickerton, Mr. William, Oswestry + +Bill, Mr. Richard, Oswestry + +Bland, John T. Esq. Ireland, _two copies_ + +Bowen, Mr. John, Dinbryn + +Boycot, Miss, London, _three copies_ + +Bradshaw, Miss + +Bradshaw, Mr. George, jun. Oswestry + +Brelisford, Mr. John, Llangollen + +Bridgman, Captain, R.N. Knocking + +Bridden, Mr. William, Chirk + +Burbidge, Mr. John, Llangollen + +Butterys, Miss, Chirk + + + +C. + + +CARBERY, Lord, _three copies_ + +Cartwright, Mr. John, Shrewsbury + +Chambey, Mr. Robert, British Iron Co. + +Clarke, Mr. Francis, Corwen + +Cooper, Mr. George, Oswestry + +Coward, Mr. John, Llangollen + + + +D. + + +DUNGANNON, Lord Viscount, _ten copies_ + +Duncannon, Viscountess + +Davies, the Rev. I. M. Chester + +Davies, Mr. David, Ruabon + +Davies, Mr. Edward, Chirk + +Davies, Mr. Edward, Oswestry + +Davies, Mr. Edward, Llangollen + +Davies, Mr. William, Plas Issa + +Dickens, John, Esq. New Hall, _two copies_ + +Dicken, Mr. J. Cefnwern + +Dicken, Mr. Halton + + + +E. + + +EDWARDS, Mrs. Llangollen + +Edwards, Mr. Edward, Pengwern Hall, _two copies_ + +Edwards, Mr. Edward, solicitor, Wrexham, _two copies_ + +Edwards, Mr. William, Llanrwst + +Edwards, Mr. Richard, Liverpool + +Edwards, Mr. David, Oswestry + +Edwards, Mr. J. bookseller, Oswestry, _three copies_ + +Edwards, Mr. Edward, Pontcysyllte + +Edwards, Edward, Esq. Oswestry + +Edwards, Mr. Robert, Rhisgog + +Edwards, Mr. John, surgeon, Oswestry + +Evan, Mr. William, Liverpool, _two copies_ + +Evans, Mr. Chester, _six copies_ + +Evans, Mr. Robert, Llangollen + +Evans, Mr. John, Llangollen, _three copies_ + +Evans, Mr. Edward, Bryn Howell + +Evans, Mr. Edward, Dinbryn + +Evans, Mr. David, Pentre + + + +F. + + +FAREWELL, Mrs. Chirk Castle + +Foulkes, Mrs. Eliza, Oswestry + +Foulkes, Mr. Chirk + + + +G. + + +GARDINER, Mr. James, Llangollen, _four copies_ + +Gething, Mr. Zopher + +Gisborne, Mr. W. Hartley, Manchester, _five copies_ + +Glover, Mr. John, Royton + +Godfrey, Mr. Englefield Green + +Griffiths, the Rev. T. A.M. Llangollen + + + +H. + + +HUTCHINSON, Lady + +Hales, Mr. Oswestry + +Harrison, Major, Llantysilio Hall, _two copies_ + +Harrison, Captain, Rhyd y Murn + +Haycock, Mr. E. Priory, Shrewsbury + +Heyward, Mrs. Richard, London, _three copies_ + +Howell, Mr. Samuel, Chirk + +Hughes, the Rev. D. A.M. + +Hughes, Mr. Deputy Registrar of Bangor + +Hughes, Mr. Edward, Pentre Felen + +Hughes, Mr. John, Llangollen + +Hughes, Mr. John, jun. London + +Hughes, Mr. Henry, Oswestry + +Hughes, Mr. Hugh, Halton + +Humphries, Mr. John, Wrexham + + + +J. + + +JACKSON, Mr. Grove House, Wrexham, _two copies_ + +Jackson, Mrs. Oswestry + +Jebb, R. Esq. Chirk, _two copies_ + +Johnson, Mr. Hand Inn, Chirk + +Jones, Hugh, Esq. London, _six copies_ + +Jones, Richard, Esq. Dinbryn Hall + +Jones, Lewis, Esq. Oswestry + +Jones, John, Esq. Oswestry + +Jones, Mr. Robert, solicitor, Llangollen + +Jones, Mr. Richard, post-master, Llangollen + +Jones, the Rev. Mr. Llangollen + +Jones, Mr. Hugh, Llangollen + +Jones, Mr. David, Llangollen + +Jones, Mr. John, Llangollen + +Jones, Mr. John Maesmor, Llangollen + +Jones, Mr. Thomas, Llangollen + +Jones, Mr. watchmaker, Llangollen + +Jones, Mr. William, Chirk + +Jones, Master W. Vestris + +Jones, Master Robert Albion + +Jones, Mr. John, Oswestry + +Jones, Mr. Edward, Wern Issaf + +Jones, the Rev. J. Ruabon + +Jones, Mr. Evan, New House + +Jones, Mr. Richard, Dolgelly + +Jones, Mr. John, Red Lion, Llangollen + +Jones, Mr. John, Glyndyfrdwy + +Jones, Mr. John, Llangollen + +Jones, Mr. William, Trevor + +Jones, Mr. Edward, Llangollen + + + +K. + + +KENYON, the Hon. Thomas + +Kendrick, Mr. John, Gobowen + +Knight, Mr. James, Oswestry + + + +L. + + +LETHBRIDGE, Lieut.-Gen. Shrewsbury, _two copies_ + +Lloyd, Godfrey, Esq. Llangollen Fechan, _two copies_ + +Laing, Mr. Oswestry, _five copies_ + +Lever, Mr. Chirk + +Lewis, Mr. Thomas, Brook House + +Lloyd, Richard, Esq. Rhagatt, _two copies_ + +Lloyd, Mr. R. King’s Head Hotel, Llangollen, _two copies_ + +Lloyd, Mr. Thomas, Chirk Green + +Lloyd, Mr. William, Chirk + +Lolly, Miss + +Lucas, Mr. Francis, Oswestry + +Lucas, Mr. James, Staffordshire + + + +M. + + +MARTINDALE, Mr. Nicholas, Liverpool + +Mason, Mr. Liverpool + +Maxwell, Major + +Maxwell, Mrs. Major + +Maxwell, Miss + +Maxwell, Miss Eliza G. + +Maxwell, Miss Anna Maria Sophia + +M’Nure, Mr. + +Minshall, Mr. W. Llanddyn Hall + +Morris, Mr. Edward, Rhisgog, _two copies_ + +Morris, Mr. Charles, Wrexham + +Morris, Mr. David, Chirk + +Morgan, Mr. Thomas, Llangollen + +Moxon, Mr. John, Manchester + + + +N. + + +NEWCOME, the Rev. Richard, Warden of Ruthin + +Nicholas, Mr. W. Pentre Hobbin + +Noel, Mrs. Edward, _four copies_ + + + +O. + + +ORMONDE, the Marquess of + +Ormonde, the Marchioness of + +Ossory, the Earl of + +Ormonde and Ossory, the Countess of + +Owen, Mr. surgeon, Llangollen, _four copies_ + +Owen, Mr. G. D. wine merchant, Oswestry, _two copies_ + +Owen, Mr. William, Chirk + +Owen, Mr. Edward, Halton + + + +P. + + +PONSONBY, the Right Hon. Lady Barbara + +Parry, Mr. Evan, Llangollen + +Parry, Mr. Richard, Pontcysyllte + +Parry, Mr. John, Trevor, _two copies_ + +Perry, S. Esq. London + +Peters, Miss, Glyn Allyn + +Phillips, Mr. Joseph, Hand Hotel, Llangollen, _four copies_ + +Pierce, Mr. Wolverhampton + +Povis, Mr. London + +Povey, Mr. Penvin y Pandy + +Powell, Mr. Richard, Oswestry + +Powell, Mr. Thomas, St. Martin’s + +Powell, John Richard, Esq. Presgwern + +Price, Mr. Edward, Llangollen + +Price, Mr. William, Oswestry + +Price, Dr. Llangollen, _three copies_ + +Pugh, Mr. Eagles, Llangollen + + + +R. + + +RICHARDS, Mr. Mardol, Shrewsbury + +Richards, Mr. S. Chirk + +Richardson, Mrs. Manchester + +Roberts, Mr. Peter, Oswestry + +Roberts, Miss Harriet, Chirk + +Roberts, Mr. land-surveyor, Wern Lodge, _two copies_ + +Roberts, Mr. Factory, Llangollen, _two copies_ + +Roberts, Mr. confectioner, Oswestry + +Roberts, Mr. Samuel, Oswestry + +Roberts, Mr. John, Llangollen + +Rodgers, Mr. Thomas, Oswestry + +Royd, Miss, Bath + + + +S. + + +STACKPOLE, William Wentworth, Esq. _six copies_ + +Stewart, the Hon. Mrs. Killyman Castle, Ireland + +Savage, John, M.D. + +Scoltock, Mr. Shrewsbury, _four copies_ + +Shebbeare, Capt. R.N. Cottage, Llangollen, _two copies_ + +Shiffer, Mr. Thomas, Denbigh + +Simpson, Mr. T. Wolverhampton, _twelve copies_ + +Smale, Mr. Oswestry, _two copies_ + +Smith, Mrs. Maria, Chirk + +Smith, Mr. Thomas, Chirk + +Spencer, Charles, Esq. Worcester, _two copies_ + +Stanton, Mr. Robert, Oswestry + + + +T. + + +TAYLOR, the Hon. General + +Talwrn, Mr. + +Taylor, Mrs. Isaac, Shiffnal + +Thomas, Mr. David, Oswestry + +Thompson, Mr. excise officer, Wrexham + +Thompstone, Mr. S. Manchester, _two copies_ + +Titley, Mr. Chester + +Tomkies, Mr. T. Oswestry + +Tompkins, Mr. Lion Inn, Shrewsbury, _two copies_ + +Tompkins, Mrs. Edmund, Shrewsbury + + + +V. + + +VALENTINE and Throsby, Walsall, _six copies_ + +Vaughan, Mr. surgeon, Chirk + + + +W. + + +WYNN, Sir Watkyn Williams, Bart. _ten copies_ + +Ward, T. E. Esq. Cefnwern, _two copies_ + +Warrington, the Misses, Wrexham + +Warter, Thomas, Esq. Llangollen + +Warter, Mrs. sen. + +Whitehurst, the Rev. E. A.B. Chirk + +Whitehurst, Miss, Chirk + +Wift, Mr. Thomas, Chirk + +Williams, I. C. Esq. Chirk + +Williams, Mr. Owen, Tyddn Ucha + +Williams, Mr. Glyndyfrdwy, _two copies_ + +Williams, Mr. Thomas, Wrexham + +Williams, Mr. Edward, Wrexham + +Wood, Mrs. Birmingham + +Woodcock, Mr. G. Hinckley + +Wright, Mr. William + +Wynn, Master Jones Lloyd, Dolfawr + + * * * * * + + * * * * * + + Printed by T. and W. Wood, Birmingham. + + + + +ADVERTISEMENT. + + + LATELY PUBLISHED, + IN OCTAVO, + PRICE SEVEN SHILLINGS AND SIX PENCE, EXTRA BOARDS. + + * * * * * + + HERBAN, + + A Poem, + + IN FOUR CANTOS. + + * * * * * + + I sing unwonted. + + ANON. + + Scribimus indooti doctique poëmata passim. + + HOR. + + * * * * * + + LONDON: + G. B. WHITTAKER, AVE MARIA LANE; + AND SOLD BY ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS. + + + + +Footnotes. + + +{2} The north side of the river is called “_Trevor Ucha_,” i.e. “_Upper +Trevor_.” + +{7} The Welch have a great readiness in attaching names to record +occurrences: thus, the Gerant, which is a part of the Berwyn Mountains, +is called by them Moel y Barbwr, i.e. Barber Hill, and obtained this +appellation from the circumstance of a barber, who was an associate of a +desperate gang of ruffians, having been hanged on the summit, for the +murder of his wife in the last century. + +{11a} Welch Chron. p. 3. + +{11b} Camden’s Britan. p. 623. + +{12a} Warrington, p. 102. + +{12b} Cort’s Letter. + +{15a} Camb. Itin. p. 342. + +{15b} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 275. + +{20} Wynne’s Caradoc, p. 223. + +{31} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 282. + +{38} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 293. + +{45} Camden, p. 623. + +{47} Cambr. Trav. Guide, p, 327. + +{48} Pennant, vol. 2, p. 77. + +{49} Warrington, p. 325. + +{50} Wynne, p. 190. + +{51} Warrington, p. 326. + +{52} Wynne, p. 191. + +{55} Warrington, p. 327. + +{56} Warrington, p. 328. Hollins’s Chron. p. 73. + +{60a} These trees were planted immediately after the great election for +the boroughs of Holt, Ruthin, and Denbigh, in which Mr. Myddelton was +chosen, to mark the way to the Castle of Chirk, for the convenience of +his constituents coming to share its hospitalities. + +{60b} The ancient pillar and its pedestal now lie by the side of the +road, near a place called Pen y Bedau, about a quarter of a mile from the +toll-gate at the east end of the town. + +{63} Hunt’s Letter to the Earl of Bridgewater, in the Ellesmere Report. + +{67} Hunt’s Letter to the Earl of Bridgewater, p. 7. + +{72} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 294. + +{74} See “Llangollen Church”, in this book. + +{80} English Baronetage, vol. 2, p. 114, printed 1727. + +{85} Cooke’s Brit. Trav. p. 111. + +{86} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 401. + +{90a} London, so called by Camden and the Brut. + +{90b} See Llangollen Church, dedicated to St. Collen. + +{90c} See the Brut, or Chronicle of the Kings of Britain, in vol. 1 of +Collectanea Cambrica, by the Rev. P. Roberts, A.M. + +{91} Chron. of the Kings of Britain, p. 49. + +{92} Brut, p. 30. Camden. Gildas wrote A.D. 560; Geoffrey of Monmouth, +1070. + +{94a} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 395. + +{94b} Warrington, p. 345. + +{94c} Warrington, p. 359. + +{94d} Wynne, p. 229. + +{96} Wynne, p. 230. + +{97a} Warrington, p, 363. + +{97b} Wynne p. 257. Warrington, p. 398. + +{98a} Wynne, p. 273. + +{98b} Wynne, p. 274. + +{99} Wynne, p. 180. + +{101} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 216. + +{102a} Wynne, p. 275. + +{102b} Warrington, p. 440. + +{103a} Warrington, p. 458. + +{103b} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 216. + +{104} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 217. + +{105a} Wynne, p. 181. + +{105b} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 217. + +{106} Pennant, vol. 1. p. 217. + +{107} Camden’s Brit p. 304. + +{110} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 324. A gentleman who knows the fact says, +however, that it came to the Cuppers recently, through an intermarriage +with a Miss Davies; and that Mr. Pennant was wrong informed. + +{114} Whittington on Gothic Architecture. Dr. Milner’s History of +Winchester. + +{115} Sir Christopher Wren’s Parentalia. + +{118a} Camden’s Britan. p. 677. + +{118b} These dates may have been some years later. In a MS. obligingly +lent to me, it is stated, “Dissolved by statute of Henry VIII. 1561, at +which time it was rated in the King’s Books at 214_l._ 3_s._ 3_d._:” so +that it was wholly decayed, as Camden has it, in twenty-five years. + +{119} This is the year in which Camden’s Latin Edition appeared; +consequently, this survey must have been made before. + +{124a} Pennant, vol. 1. + +{124b} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 395. + +{124c} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 397. + +{125} A ploughland is nearly one hundred acres. + +{127} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 398. + +{131a} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 399. + +{131b} Although Pennant spells the second Cateli with two letters of T, +yet it has been published by others with only one; and as the name in +both instances refers to the same person, I have adopted the latter +course. + +{132} Warrington, p. 87. + +{133a} Camden, p. 505. + +{133b} Wynne, p. 23. + +{138} Pennant, vol. 2, p. 80. + +{139a} Bala Pool. + +{139b} Camden’s Brit. p. 666. + +{146a} Wynne, p. 315. + +{146b} Wynne, p. 320. + +{147a} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 327. + +{147b} Wynne, p. 315. + +{148} About seven miles from Llangollen, and not far from Glyndyfrdwy, +on the Corwen road, there is a meadow called “_Dôl Benig_,” or Head +Meadow, where this scheme was practised. + +{149a} Camb. Trav. Guide, p. 324. + +{149b} Wynne, p. 316. + +{150} Wynne, p. 316. + +{151} Wynne, p. 316. + +{152a} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 331. + +{152b} Wynne, p. 317. + +{153} Camden, p. 625. + +{155} Pennant, vol. l, p. 328. Iolo Goch says—“Owen’s Palace had a +gate-house; was surrounded with a moat; had nine halls, furnished with +the wardrobes of his retainers; had a house adjoining, built of wood, and +covered with tiles, designed for his guests. The office of porter was +useless; locks and bolts were unknown; and no one could be hungry or dry +at Sycharth.” So Mr. Pennant spells it. + +{156a} Wynne, p. 317. Pennant, vol. 1, p. 355. + +{156b} English Baronetage, vol. 1, p. 167. + +{158a} Wynne, p. 317. + +{158b} Wynne, p. 318. Pennant, vol. 1, p. 321. + +{159a} Wynne, p. 320. + +{159b} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 360. + +{161} Wynne, p. 321. + +{162a} Rapin’s England. + +{162b} Pennant. + +{165} Wynne, p. 319. + +{166} Wynne, p. 319. These rebellious practices of Glyndwr so +exasperated King Henry against the Welch people, that he enacted laws +which in effect took away all their liberties. They were rendered +incapable of purchasing any lands, or of being elected Members of any +county or borough; or of undertaking any office civil or military in any +town incorporate. No Englishman could be convicted of any crime against +a Welchman, but by an English judge and jury. An Englishman, by marrying +a Welch woman, was deprived of all his privileges as an English subject. +No Welchman could possess any castle or place of defence, or be supplied +with victuals or armour, without a warrant from the King or from his +Common Council. And further it was enacted that no Welchman should be +capable of undertaking the office of Justice, Chamberlain, Sheriff, or +other place of trust, in any part of Wales; notwithstanding any patent or +license heretofore given to the contrary. With other rigorous and unjust +laws, forbidding any Welchman from bringing up his children to learning, +or binding them to any trade or occupation. Henry V. at his succession +repealed these abominable laws. + +{167} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 371. + +{168} Hollinshead. Wynne, p. 319. + +{171} Cambr. Trav. Guide, p. 324. + +{172} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 331. + +{174} Wynne, p. 322. + +{176} Wynne, p. 322. + +{179} Pennant, vol. 1, p. 296. + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOME ACCOUNT OF LLANGOLLEN AND ITS +VICINITY*** + + +******* This file should be named 39590-0.txt or 39590-0.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/9/5/9/39590 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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