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diff --git a/39581.txt b/39581.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0386e13 --- /dev/null +++ b/39581.txt @@ -0,0 +1,16191 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Life of Frederick Courtenay Selous, D.S.O., by +J.G. Millais + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Life of Frederick Courtenay Selous, D.S.O. + Capt. 25th Royal Fusiliers + +Author: J.G. Millais + +Release Date: April 30, 2012 [EBook #39581] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FREDERICK COURTENAY SELOUS *** + + + + +Produced by Moti Ben-Ari and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive.) + + + + + + + + + + LIFE OF FREDERICK COURTENAY SELOUS, D.S.O. + + + + + _BY THE SAME AUTHOR._ + + =The Mammals of Great Britain and Ireland.= 3 vols. Quarto, + cloth, gilt top, L18 18s. net. + + VOLUME I, Order Cheiroptera, Order Insectivora, Order Carnivora. + With 18 Photogravures by the Author; 31 Coloured Plates by the + Author, ARCHIBALD THORBURN, and G. E. LODGE; and 63 Uncoloured + Plates by the Author, and from Photographs. + + VOLUME II, Order Carnivora (_continued_) and Order Rodentia. + With 21 Photogravures by the Author, H. GROeNVOLD, G. E. LODGE, + and from Photographs by D. ENGLISH; 19 Coloured Plates by + ARCHIBALD THORBURN and G. E. LODGE; and 33 Uncoloured Plates by + the Author and from Photographs. + + VOLUME III, Rodentia (_completion_), with the Hares and the + Rabbit; the Cervidae (The Deer family); the Bovidae (the Oxen), + and the Cetaceae (Whales). With 23 Photogravures from Drawings by + the Author, H. GROeNVOLD, and E. S. HODGSON; 12 Coloured Plates + by the Author, A. THORBURN, and H. W. B. DAVIS, R.A.; and 44 + Uncoloured Plates by the Author, A. THORBURN, Sir EDWIN + LANDSEER, and from Photographs. + + =Newfoundland and its Untrodden Ways.= With 2 Maps, 6 Coloured + Plates, 6 Photogravure Plates and 115 other Illustrations by the + Author and from Photographs. Royal 8vo, cloth, 22s. net. + + =The Wildfowler in Scotland.= With a Frontispiece in + Photogravure after a Drawing by Sir J. E. MILLAIS, Bart., + P.R.A.; 8 Photogravure Plates, 2 Coloured Plates, and 50 + Illustrations from the Author's Drawings and from Photographs. + Royal 4to, cloth, gilt top, 30s. net. + + =The Natural History of the British Surface-Feeding Ducks.= With + 6 Photogravures and 66 Plates (41 in Colours) from Drawings by + the Author, ARCHIBALD THORBURN, and from Photographs. Royal 4to, + cloth, gilt top, L6 6s. net. + + =British Diving Ducks.= With Coloured, Photogravure, and + Collotype Plates by ARCHIBALD THORBURN, O. MURRAY DIXON, H. + GROeNVOLD, and the Author. 2 vols. Imperial 4to, cloth, gilt top, + L12 12s. net. + + =Rhododendrons,= in which is set forth an account of all species + of the genus Rhododendron (including Azaleas) and the various + Hybrids. By J. G. MILLAIS, F.Z.S., M.B.O.U. With Coloured Plates + by ARCHIBALD THORBURN, BEATRICE PARSONS, E. F. BRENNAND, and W. + WALKER; also 14 Collotype Plates and numerous Half-tone + Illustrations. 4to. 16 x 12 ins. L8 8s. net. + + LONGMANS, GREEN & CO., + LONDON, NEW YORK, BOMBAY, CALCUTTA AND MADRAS. + + + + +[Illustration: +Photo: J Russell & Sons. +Frederick Courtenay Selous, D.S.O., +Captain 25th ROYAL FUSILIERS. +Killed in Action, January 4th, 1917.] + + + + + LIFE OF FREDERICK COURTENAY SELOUS, D.S.O. + CAPT. 25TH ROYAL FUSILIERS + + + BY + J. G. MILLAIS, F.Z.S. + Author of + "Rhododendrons," + "The Mammals of Great Britain and Ireland," + "The Wild Fowler in Scotland," + "Newfoundland and its Untrodden Ways," + "The Natural History of the British Surface-Feeding Ducks," + "British Diving Ducks," etc. + + + WITH 14 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR AND 2 PORTRAITS + + + SECOND IMPRESSION + + + NEW YORK: + LONGMANS, GREEN AND CO. + FOURTH AVENUE AND 30TH STREET + 1919 + + + + +PREFACE + +In preparing the life of my friend, Fred Selous, I have to thank his +brother Edmund, and his sister Mrs. Jones (Ann Selous) for contributions +regarding his parents and early life. I am also indebted to his friends, +Sir Alfred Pease, Captain P. B. Vanderbyl and Mr. Heatley Noble for +certain notes with regard to short expeditions made in his company. Mr. +Abel Chapman, a life-long friend, has also assisted me with numerous +letters which are of interest. But most of all have I to thank Mrs. +Selous, who from the first has given me every assistance in furnishing +details of her husband's adventurous life, and allowed me to read and +extract from the numerous letters he wrote to different members of his +family during a considerable part of his life. Selous had many friends, +but none evinced a more keen understanding of his life and work than +Colonel Theodore Roosevelt, Ex-President of the United States, and I +feel grateful to him for the attention he has given to the following +pages and the use he has allowed me to make of his numerous letters. + +The Author has also to thank Messrs. Macmillan and Co. and Messrs. +Rowland Ward and Co. for the use they allowed him to make of two of +Selous' works, namely, _A Hunter's Wanderings_ and _Travel and Adventure +in S.E. Africa_. He is much indebted to their kindness in this matter, +since they give in the hunter's own words accurate details of his life. + +J. G. MILLAIS, +COMPTON'S BROW, HORSHAM. + + + + + CONTENTS + + CHAPTER I + 1851-1865 + + Ancient and modern heroes--The character of Selous--The Selous + family--Edmund Selous' notes--An artistic and ancient + race--Selous' parents--Family life--Selous' father--Some of his + reminiscences--His mother--His uncles--Selous' childhood in + London--Early schooldays--Selous' own story of his youth--His + first battle--Youthful adventures--His athletic prowess--Life at + Belton Page 1 + + CHAPTER II + 1865-1870 + + He enters Rugby--Love of books of travel--Life at Rugby--Rugby + football in the old days--"Butler's leap"--Excursions in Natural + History--Adventures out of bounds--The Pilton Range + episode--Raid on the Heronry at Coombe Abbey--A cold + swim--Unjust treatment--Wanderings with the rifle--Chased by the + keeper--Mr. Boughton Leigh's broad-mindedness--The ice accident + at Regent's Park--The panic--A narrow escape--Canon Wilson's + recollections of Selous as a schoolboy--"Williamson's" + duck--Neuchatel--Wiesbaden--His friend Colchester--A row with + the forester--He flies to Salzburg--Butterfly + collecting--Chamois hunting--The Franco-German War--Its + unpopularity in Austria--His estimate of the German + character--Visit to Vienna--Back in England 29 + + CHAPTER III + 1871-1875 + + The influence of literature--Books on Africa--Thomas + Baines--Baldwin--Selous lands in Africa--Leaves Port + Elizabeth--Sport on the road--Arrival at Kimberley--A short + expedition into Griqualand--Starts for the north--His + companions--The first giraffe hunt--Lost in the bush--An + unenviable position--Loses his horse--Reaches safety--His first + lions--Meeting with Lobengula--The Matabele king's + humour--Cigar--Elephant hunters--Piet Jacobs--William + Finaughty--His life as an elephant hunter--Selous kills his + first elephants--Cigar's good qualities--Selous remains in + Matabeleland--Joins Wood in an elephant hunt--A great day--A + fatal accident--The Dett valley--Elephant hunting--Charged by a + cow--A narrow escape--A doubly loaded elephant gun--Further + adventures with elephants--Return to Bulawayo--Game in the Dett + valley--Selous goes north to the Zambesi--Visit to the + Chobe--Begins his collection of trophies--Adventures with + buffaloes--Abundance of game--His first lion--A savage + charge--Arrives at Tati 65 + + CHAPTER IV + 1876-1878 + + Lands again at Algoa Bay--Reaches Matabeleland--Kills a fine + lion--George Westbeech--Return to the Diamond Fields--Loses a + fine lion--The comparative danger of hunting various wild + animals--Views of experienced hunters--Adventures with + buffaloes--Goes north to the Zambesi--Hunting in the Chobe + delta--Sepopo's elephant drives--A charging buffalo--Selous' + horse killed by a buffalo--Further adventures with + buffaloes--Their speed and cunning--A depressing outlook--Visit + to the Zambesi--Portuguese misrule--The Kafukwe country--An + unhealthy region--Illness of Owen and Selous--Restored to + health--Elephant hunting on the Hanyane river--Clarkson and + Wood--The death of Quabeet--A vicious cow--Nearly crushed--Kills + a lioness--Plans for the future 99 + + CHAPTER V + 1879-1880 + + Intends to visit the Mashukulumbwe country--Expedition into the + northern Kalahari--The Botletlie river--Adventure with + lions--The difficulties of the Thirstland--The Mababe + flats--Oxen nearly exhausted--Finds water--Kills two lionesses + and two fine lions--Hunting on the Linyanti and Chobe--The death + of French--Sick with fever--Causes of the Zulu War--The + magnanimity of the Zulus--Selous' visit to Cetewayo--The story + of John Dunn--McLeod of McLeod--The Swazi king's + reasoning--Selous' views on the Zulu War--Sir Godfrey + Lagden--Selous again goes to Matabeleland--J. S. Jameson, some + details of his life--Expedition to Mashunaland--Return to + England--Causes of the first Boer War--Selous' first + book--Slaughter of game in South Africa--The ethics of Big Game + hunting 120 + + CHAPTER VI + 1881-1885 + + Return to South Africa--Intends to be an ostrich farmer--Goes + north again--The snake-stone--Collecting specimens of big game + and butterflies--A bold lioness--Visit to Khama--Lion attacks + the camp--Death of the lion--Laer's narrow escape--Kills a + leopard--Reaches the Zambesi--Goes south and then returns to + Mashunaland--The Manyami plateau--A savage leopard--Adventure + with a lion--The hippopotamus row--A poor outlook--Visit to the + Mababe--A man-eating lion--Return to Bulawayo--The white + rhinoceros--A wonderful herd of elephants--A great day spoiled + by a sulky horse--Frequently charged by elephants--A savage + cow--Curious magnanimity to a horse--Liechtenstein's + Hartebeest--A gallant sable antelope--Havoc amongst the + dogs--Danger from wounded sable and roan antelopes 141 + + CHAPTER VII + 1886-1889 + + Expedition to Mashunaland with Messrs. Jameson, Fountaine and + Cooper--A serious accident--Sets out for Barotsiland--Arrival at + Wankie's--Extortion by the Batonga chiefs--Monzi--The + Mashukulumbwe--Into the jaws of death--Attack on Selous' + camp--Selous escapes south--Pursuit by the natives--Lucky + meeting with a Wildebeest--His rifle stolen--Nearly + shot--Reaches Monzi's village--A dangerous + position--Marancinyan--Suspicious friendship--Moves south with + guides--Meets some of his men--Their adventures--Reaches + Panda-ma-tenka--Sikabenga's treachery--Crosses the Zambesi + again--Wanderings in Barotsiland--Return to Bamangwato 157 + + CHAPTER VIII + 1889-1892 + + Expedition to the Mazoe river--Reaches Tete--The extortions of + Maziwa--Mapping the new country--Discovery of Mt. + Hampden--Trouble with the Portuguese--The importance of + Mashunaland to Great Britain--Selous' scheme of + occupation--Rhodes' plans--Lobengula and Cecil Rhodes--The + Charter of the British South African Company--Selous' proposed + road--The pioneer expedition starts--The cutting of the + road--Lobengula's ultimatum--The road complete from Tuli to + Salisbury--Treaties with local chiefs--The Odzi road--The + Portuguese attack Massi-Kessi--A fiasco--A night with + lions--Visits the Pungwe district--A great game + country--Progress in the new country--Leaves South Africa--The + Hartley Hills lion--An unfortunate miss-fire--A gallant + foe--Death of the lion--Lion hunters--The brothers Hill--Methods + of hunting--Sir Alfred Pease--Selous' writings--The Government + neglect of science--The jealousy and poverty of scientific + societies--America's good example--The miserable treatment of + African explorers--Selous and Rhodes--The rewards of hard + work--The pioneer's only monument 172 + + CHAPTER IX + 1893-1896 + + Cupid at work--Engagement to Miss Maddy--Intends to visit + America--Trouble in Matabeleland--History of Matabele raids--The + position in 1893--Hunters enter Matabeleland--Selous returns to + South Africa--Joins Col. Goold-Adams' column--Preliminary + fights--Selous wounded--The first battle--The Matabele retreat + north--Disaster to Major Wilson's column--Selous' + prophecy--Return to England--Marriage--Honeymoon on the Danube + and in Asia Minor--Hunting in the mountains of Asia + Minor--Leaves again for Mashunaland--Essex vale--The new + Bulawayo--The cloud of trouble--The Umlimo--The rising of the + natives--The defence force--Col. Johan Colenbrander--Driven from + Essex vale--Isolated engagements--The fight on the + Umguzra--Selous surrounded--His horse runs away--His life saved + by Capt. Windley--A narrow escape--Work on the main + road--Arrival of Sir H. Plumer--Mr. Labouchere's views of the + second Matabele War--The future of S. Rhodesia--The difficulties + of farming there--Markets too distant--Selous attacked by + Labouchere--Messrs. Rowland Ward and Co.--Their kindness to + Selous--The Nyala--Expedition to the Pongolo and Usutu + rivers--An unhealthy country--Return to England 197 + + CHAPTER X + 1896-1907 + + Selous' restlessness and love of travel--Roosevelt on the charms + of travel--Criticism of travel books--Selous as an egg + collector--Second visit to Asia Minor--Short excursions at + home--Goes with his wife to the Rockies--Wapiti + hunting--Roosevelt on past and present hunting in N. + America--Hunting chamois in Transylvania--Selous on the second + Boer War--An Imperialist, but always fair--His sorrow as to the + causes of the war--Personal knowledge of the Boers--An + honourable foe--Their ignorance and good qualities--Selous' + views on their unjust treatment--Letter to the + "Speaker"--Roosevelt on the Boers--Birds'-nesting on the + Danube--Hunting moose in Canada--Newfoundland caribou hunting on + the railway--A poor sport--Goes into the interior--Too late for + the migration--Second visit to Newfoundland--A successful + expedition--Third visit to Asia Minor--First expedition to East + Africa--A big game paradise--Birds'-nesting at home--First + expedition to Alaska--Visit to the Ogilvy Mountains--Up the + North Fork of the MacMillan--Kills a bull moose--Osborn's + caribou--A great moose--Bad weather--Third trip to + Newfoundland--A wet season--King George IVth Lake--A bad year + for heads 224 + + CHAPTER XI + 1906-1907 + + A visit to Bosnia--Second expedition to Alaska--Down the + Yukon--Up the South Fork of the MacMillan--Caribou, wolf and + moose hunting--His sympathetic nature--Account of the MacMillan + trip--Again visits Asia Minor--Financial depression--Arthur + Neumann--Some details of his life--Reindeer hunting in + Norway--African nature notes and reminiscences--Letters from + President Roosevelt 257 + + CHAPTER XII + 1908-1913 + + Roosevelt's expedition to Africa--Selous' arrangements--Selous + joins Roosevelt at Naples--Goes to the Northern Gwas N'yiro with + MacMillan--Fails to obtain lions--Accident to Mr. + Williams--Selous at Vienna--Warburton Pike--Expedition to the + Bahr-el-Ghazal--Goes to Tembera--Phil Oberlander--Killed by a + buffalo--Some stories of Oberlander--Selous' hunt for the Giant + Elands--A hard trip--Illness and rapid recovery--Third + expedition to East Africa--Judd's adventure with a + lioness--Roosevelt on African hunting--Physical + limitations--Selous' last buffalo--A gallant foe--Elani his + Somali nearly killed--Dislike of crowds--Visit to the Channel + Islands--Roosevelt on the early Normans--Heatley Noble on + Selous--Their expedition to Iceland--Selous' + imperturbability--His powers as a climber--Selous' idea of a + good dinner--Selous on his Icelandic trip--Yearnings for + Africa--Young Fred Selous--A true son of his father--His + athletic prowess--An excellent airman--His untimely death 267 + + CHAPTER XIII + 1914-1915 + + Visit to Texel Island--Intends to make expedition to the + Bahr-el-Ghazal--Frustrated by the war--Selous' + patriotism--Efforts to serve--Lord Kitchener thinks him "too + old"--Col. Driscoll and the War Office--At last taken for + service in East Africa--Selous' account of the capture of + Bukoba--Letter to Heatley Noble--The position in East Africa in + 1915--Letters to the author--German ascendancy--The Indian + Government forces--Precarious position of the British + forces--Intends to publish his experiences--Roosevelt's + letters--German thoroughness--Roosevelt anxious for America to + join the Allies--Letters to the author on the difficulties of + the campaign--Unfortunate mistakes--The Munyamwesi--Wonderful + fighters--Advance to Kilimanjaro--General Smuts in + command--Description of the advance--A deadly climate in the wet + season--Returns home for an operation--Again leaves for the + front 299 + + CHAPTER XIV + SEPTEMBER, 1916-1917 + + The last journey--Arrival at Tanga--German East Africa in + 1916--The difficulties of the campaign--Progress by General + Smuts--The Royal Fusiliers go to Mikesse--A fearful + march--General Smuts on the action at Beho-Beho--Selous' + gallantry--His death at the head of his men--A noble + life--Captain Haines on the last days of Selous--Selous' + grave--General Smuts on the future of German East Africa 340 + + CHAPTER XV + CHARACTER, APPEARANCE, ETC.--SOME STORIES OF HIM + + Untiring energy as a hunter--His modest requirements--Rifles--A + story of his practical nature--Sir Alfred Pease on Selous as a + hunter and naturalist--The average of shots required in various + lands--Selous as a hunter--His love of the + shot-gun--Perseverance to excel--The Brocklehursts--A lover of + cricket--Bicycling--The triumph of physical fitness--His + personal magnetism--Memory--Powers as a + story-teller--Diffidence--Inclined to melancholy--The spring of + perennial youth--The force of heredity--Slatin Pasha's + estimation of Col. Marchand--Selous' opinion of Marchand--Powers + of speech--His independence of thought and action--Literary + gifts--Kindness of heart--Hatred of crowds--The perpetual call + of the wild--Home-sickness--The nostalgia of travel--A great + reader--His preferences in literature--Personal + friends--Hospitality at home--Lewanika's fears--His attitude + towards religion--Roosevelt on Selous--Selous' great influence + as a pioneer--A noble life and a fitting end 352 + + INDEX 377 + + + + + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + FREDERICK COURTENAY SELOUS AT THE AGE OF 59 _Frontispiece_ + TO FACE PAGE + THE PLAINS OF THE ORANGE FREE STATE IN 1871 64 + SELOUS AS A YOUNG MAN, IN HUNTING COSTUME 80 + ELEPHANTS 112 + BUFFALOES ALARMED 144 + ON THE MASHUNA PLATEAU 176 + THE BATTLE OF THE STRONG 192 + LIONS CHASING A KOODOO BULL 224 + THE WANDERING MINSTREL 240 + OSBORN'S CARIBOU 256 + MT. KENIA FROM THE SOUTH 272 + BULL MOOSE ABOUT TO LIE DOWN 288 + MT. KILIMANJARO FROM THE NORTH 304 + A SHOT ON THE PLAINS, BRITISH EAST AFRICA 320 + FARU! FARU! 336 + THEY CANNOT BREAK HIS SLEEP 368 + + + + + THE LIFE OF FREDERICK COURTENAY SELOUS, D.S.O. + +CHAPTER I +1851-1865 + + +Men of all ages are apt to set up for themselves heroes. It is their +instinct to worship exceptional force of character and to follow a +leader; but as we survey the tempest of human suffering we are now more +apt to wonder if there are any great men left in the world and think +that perhaps, after all, we have made a mistake in putting on pedestals +the heroes of the past; for tried in the light of the present day they +would, perchance, not have proved heroes at all. The cynic may even +sneer at this lovable trait in human nature and affect to place all men +in a commonplace ratio, but then it is easier to be a cynic than a man +of faith. Nevertheless, Humanity must have something to trust, to +acclaim and admire, and so millions of all ages cling to their worship +of the hero, even though he may wear top hat and trousers. There will +always be great men amongst the mass of pygmies, though many say the age +of hero-worship has gone--doubtless swamped in the scale of colossal +events. Still, if the great men of the past were not as large as they +seemed, the little men of to-day may be greater, in spite of the fact +that the chief actors in the modern drama of life are nations and not +individuals. + +But what constitutes a great man will ever be the result of individual +opinion. In Russia to-day millions, perhaps, think Lenin and Trotsky are +demi-gods, whilst an equal number call them traitors and would prefer to +see them hanged. To us, perhaps, the belief that Right will triumph over +wrong, and the man who in simple faith gives up all that is sweet and +pleasant to serve his country in the most fearful strife the world has +ever seen, is the embodiment of heroism. There are tens of thousands of +men who have done the same as Frederick Selous and none are less heroes +than he; each and all of them are as much entitled to their pedestal of +fame, although they may not have exhibited the mind that influences for +years in many lands. They have all counted the cost and endured the +sacrifice, and they do not talk about their inner thoughts. This, to our +minds, is true heroism. + +So in studying the life of one Englishman, great in the sense that +everything he did was big, honourable, clever, and brave, we shall +realize how character is formed in the iron mill of experience, how a +man unhelped by wealth or social advantages and gifted only with +exceptional talents in a line, mainly unprofitable in a worldly sense, +came to win through the difficulties and dangers of a more than usually +strenuous life and reach the haven of completed work. Selous was a type +of Englishman of which we are justly proud. His very independence of +character and impatience of restraint when once he knew a thing was +right was perhaps his greatest asset. He knew what he wanted to do and +did it even if it resulted, as it did on one occasion, in his personal +unpopularity. It was this fearless striving towards the Light and +constant love of what was beautiful in Nature, that forced him into +Literature, so that others might see with his eyes the things that he +thought were best. And thus he rose and became a type and an influence +in our national life, and in time swayed the lives of others. + +The Selous family were originally French Huguenots, who settled in +Jersey after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. Annoyance at being +turned out of France caused Gideon Slous to omit the "e" from the +surname, but later this was re-adopted by his son Frederick Lokes +Selous, father of Frederick Courtenay. Of the character of his parents +and uncles Edmund Selous kindly sends me the following notes:-- + + "... I can only say generally, that my father was a man of high + and varied talents and very high character, of French, or at any + rate, Jersey descent, and that he started with nothing in life, + and with only such education (beyond what he owed to his mother, + an uncommon woman, who probably did better for him) as an + ordinary private school had afforded, equipped himself with + French and Italian in perfection, entered the Stock Exchange at + an early age, had a successful career there, and rose to be + Chairman of its Committee. He was a fine whist and chess player + (more especially, or more notedly, the latter) and was reputed, + I believe, at one time, to be the best amateur player of the + clarionet. Music was his constant and greatest delight, but his + pen was also an instrument which (though he sought no public + beyond his friends) he often used very entertainingly. He was a + brilliant--often a witty--talker, with a distinction of manner, + more French- than English-seeming in its light debonairness, and + his individualities, traits, foibles, etc., were so many and + vivid, that to write either of him or of Dr. Johnson with + scanted pen, would be much the same thing. My two uncles, the + artist and dramatist, who lived next door, on each side of us, + would also require portraiture for anything beyond this bare + statement. Both were out-of-the-canvas-stepping personalities, + carrying with them atmosphere and aroma. + + "My mother was an exceptionally thoughtful and broad-minded + woman--more advanced, on most subjects, than where they stand + now--a vivid and vital being, of great vivacity, gladness (that + never was levity) and conversational powers, with a gift for the + interchange of ideas (which is not, by any means, always the + same thing). She was also a poet, as her little volume of + collected pieces, 'Words without Music' (a modest title) + testifies, at least to myself. She had joyous 'L'Allegro'-like + country instincts, a deep inborn love of the beauties of nature + (which she sketched charmingly), and great feeling for, and + interest in both plant and animal _life_. I underline that word, + in its last connection, because killing was quite another thing + for her, and her whole soul shrank away from it. But of course, + as you know, what, in root and origin, may be the same, is often + differentiated in the sexes, and so inherited by each. It was, I + think, undoubtedly through our mother (though he did not, + personally, much resemble either parent) that my brother + inherited everything that made him distinctively himself. By + this I mean that though much and that the best--as, for + instance, his patriotism and love of truth--may have come to him + from both sides, and some from the other only, it was that one + that gave to it, and the whole, its original life-shaping turn. + The whole was included in the blood of the Bruces of + Clackmannan, representative, I believe, of the elder branch of + the family that gave Robert Bruce to the throne of Scotland, but + what exact position, in our family tree, is occupied by Bruce, + the Abyssinian explorer, I do not quite know. However, he must + have been some sort of ancestor of my brother, and Bruce, since + the intermingling, has been a family name, though not given to + any of us surviving infancy, owing to an idea which had arisen, + through several instances of such association, that it had + become unlucky. In this regard, it has been rather the + patronymic, which, from one war to another, has borne the + malevolent influence. None have come back, either wounded, + invalided or at all. All killed outright--but this by the way. + Had it not been for my mother, therefore, my brother, in all + probability, would either never, or not in any preponderating + degree, have felt the 'call of the wild,' for my father not only + never felt it, but never was able to comprehend the feeling. + There was, in fact, nothing at all in him of what was my + brother's life and being. He was, in the proper evolutionary + sense of the word, essentially a civilized man and a Londoner. + Sport was, for him, an unknown (and much disliked) quantity, and + though taking, in an air-tight-compartment sort of way, some + interest in insects, he had not much about him of the real + naturalist. Those feelings (imperishably summed up by Jack + London in the title of his masterpiece) which, coming out of a + remote past, beckon back the only supposedly or but half-made-up + civilized amongst us, from late into early conditions, were not, + as I say, his heritage; and this was equally (or even more) the + case with his brothers--my two uncles--and as far as I know or + have ever heard, all the precedent members of the family. I + believe, therefore, that by the intervention--merciful or + otherwise--of the Bruce, Sherborn, and Holgate families, between + them, my brother was saved, or debarred, from going either into + the Stock Exchange or one of the settled professions. Which kind + of phraseology best suits the conjuncture I know not, but I + think I know what my brother's own opinion would be, since it + put the particular circumstances of that event of his life, in + which, of all others, he would esteem himself most happy and + fortunate--I mean his death--upon a footing of certainty. + + "I have alluded to my brother's independence of home (or, I + think, of any) influence. I look upon him as a salient + illustration of Darwin's finding that the force of heredity is + stronger, in the individual, than that of education and + surroundings. So far back as I can remember--at least with any + distinctness--he was always just himself, with a settled + determination that, in its calm, unobtrusive force (giving the + idea of inevitability) had in it something elemental. He may not + have lisped Africa (which was far from the family thoughts) but, + if not, he, at least, came so near to it, as to have made us all + almost remember that he did. He seems to have brought with him + into this world 'from afar,' a mind long made up as to the part + he should play in it, and his career was more than half run + before any circumstance admitted by him as deflective from its + true course, arose..." + +Mrs. Jones (Ann Selous) also paints a pleasing picture of the early life +of the family in their London house:-- + + "We lived in Gloucester Road, Regent's Park, in a house my + father built for himself. At that time there were no other + houses near, but all fields between his home and Primrose Hill, + some way off; but this superior state of things his children + never knew. Our uncles, my father's brothers, lived on either + side of us. My father was vice-Chairman of the Stock Exchange + for five years, and Chairman for three, until a very serious + illness obliged him to resign and give up everything in the way + of work. He was a fine chess player, his name is to be seen in + the games amongst those of the great players of the day. He was + also a very fine clarionet player, which instrument he taught + himself when very young, and I well remember his beautiful tone, + far beyond that of Lazarus, the chief professional player of the + day, who no doubt sacrificed tone to technique. Whenever there + was a speech to be made my father was equal to the occasion, + having great fluency and humour and real wit. He was a + delightful talker and his memory was a store-house of knowledge + and recollections that he could draw upon whenever required. He + was a very genial and admirable host, very high-spirited and + excitable. He could never forget the Revocation of the Edict of + Nantes, when the Huguenots, his forebears, were driven from + France. 'They turned us out! They turned us out!' he used to say + to my mother, a real thought of bitterness to him. His greatest + pleasure and relaxation was a walking-tour in Switzerland, a + land he specially loved. He had often been there with one or + other of his brothers, or with his great friend Baron Bramwell, + the famous judge. These trips must have been ideal, my father + and his brothers having in themselves everything that was + necessary to make them gifted in all the arts, and so + appreciative of nature and everything else, and with their + lively sense of humour and wide interests they were able to + extract the most from all they might chance upon in their + travels, those being the days before tourists flooded the + country and huge hotels swamped the more interesting inns. My + father loved the busy life of the City, and had no country + tastes such as farming or hunting, but he delighted in the life + by the river--in canoeing, specially--and in a farmer's country + home in the Isle of Wight, where, when we were children, we + spent the summers. He was a fine swimmer and would swim out with + one or other of us on his back. I well remember his energy, + mental and physical, were remarkable. The loss of sight seemed + only to affect his later years. His mind was clear and equal to + dealing with his affairs to the last. At a very advanced age he + had started tricycling and delighted in it. I think my father + and my brother Fred were very dissimilar in character, interests + and tastes. There was no 'call of the wild' in my father--nor, I + think, in my mother, except through her imagination. My father + left a few reminiscences which were never finished, as dictation + tired him--he was then over eighty and blind. They are full of + interesting memories which end unfortunately when he was still + very young." + + "I was born," writes my father, "on the 9th of March, 1802.... I + was a precocious child, for I was told that I knew my letters at + about two years of age, and could read at three and a half and + recite on a table at about four. I perfectly recollect + declaiming the quarrel between Brutus and Cassius in + Shakespeare's 'Julius Caesar.' Also I remember the announcement + of the death of Nelson in October, 1805, and witnessing his + funeral procession in January, 1806.[1] I was perched on the + shoulders of a journeyman baker named Guesnel at the corner of + Poland Street, from whence I beheld the catafalque containing + the remains of the illustrious Nelson, the whole affair + resembling much the interment of the Duke of Wellington, which I + witnessed in 1852--forty-six years later. My brother Harry (the + artist, H. C. Selous), who was thirteen months younger than I, + remembers witnessing this spectacle too.... I can recollect + weeping bitterly at hearing the first news of our great + admiral's death, and the awe and wonder with which I looked upon + the ceremony of his interment.... I was sent to school at + Islington at the age of seven, and upon the master desiring me + to read from a book which he gave to me he expressed himself so + surprised at my reading that he told my mother he would not put + me into any of the reading classes of the upper boys, as I + should put them to shame. I was at that time so strong and so + hungry that I frequently carried some of the biggest boys round + the playground (which was a large one) for an extra slice of + bread and butter with which they repaid me. I was at school + about a twelve-month and then came under my mother's care for + instruction, and to her I owe more than I can possibly express + with regard to my early education. She taught me the French + language, Greek and Roman history, and the three R's--reading, + writing, and arithmetic. When I was ten years, I was sent to a + school called the Burlington school, where I improved my French, + became a tolerable Latin scholar, and gained a smattering of + mathematics. After being for two years at this academy, I was + recalled to home rule and education and never had any further + instruction from master or professor. At this time my brother + and myself were allowed to wander about the streets uncontrolled + and might have been considered as a sort of street Arabs, though + we always selected our associates carefully." (Later on my + father had to work very hard, very long hours, up till midnight + four days in the week, but it did him no harm, and he was very + strong and active. A great part of his time was occupied in + reading every variety of book he could get hold of, from which + he gained much general information, having an unusually good + memory. Plutarch's lives were his first admired works. Pope, + Addison and Johnson came next. He made the acquaintance of some + of the celebrated Italian singers and learnt to speak their + language fluently. All this part about the Italian singers is + very interesting, and many things connected with the theatre + likewise.) + + "I also witnessed another performance which shocked me more than + anything I ever beheld, for I was then very young. It was in + 1815 or 16, I think, I happened to be rather early one day in my + long walk to Great St. Helen's, which took me past St. + Sepulchre's and the broad opening to the narrow streets of the + Old Bailey. The sun was shining brightly across Newgate, and on + chancing to look towards Ludgate Hill I saw dangling to a beam + at the west side of Newgate five human beings suspended by the + neck. One of them was a woman, who with a feeling for symmetry + had been hung in the centre. All five had white night-caps drawn + over their faces to conceal the horrible convulsions of the + features. I don't know what their crimes had been, people were + hanged in those savage days for stealing a shilling, or even + cutting a stick from a plantation. The time appointed for + cutting down the bodies had nearly arrived, and the crowd had + diminished to an apathetic group principally engaged in cracking + nuts and jokes, and eating brandy balls all hot; but horror gave + speed to my steps and I soon left hideous Newgate behind me. I + recollect a great sensation caused by the execution of + Fauntleroy for forgery." Here end these notes by my father. + + "I think I remember rightly that at fourteen my father was not + only making a livelihood for himself, but supporting his father + and mother. He was most charitable and had the kindest heart in + the world, and that high sense of honour which so distinguished + his son. I think that though these few extracts from his + reminiscences are not, perhaps, of importance, yet they throw + some light on my father's character, and indirectly it may be on + my brother's also, for certainly in strength of purpose, energy, + and will to succeed, also in vigorous health and constitution, + they were alike. They also had both a great facility for + learning languages. We were amused to read in a book on African + travel by, I think, a Portuguese, whose name for the moment I + forget, that he came across the great hunter (I forget if he put + it like that) Selous, 'somewhere' in Africa, who addressed him + in the French of the 'Boulevard des Italiens!' As I think this + traveller was supposed to have a lively imagination, we accepted + Fred's superior accent (after so many years of never speaking or + hearing French) with some grains of salt. But not very many + years ago at some international meeting to do with sport, at + Turin or Paris, Fred representing England, he made a speech in + French, on which he was much complimented, for accent, wit, and + fluency alike.[2] + + "My mother, like my father, had a wonderful memory, and was a + great reader, from childhood, her home possessing a big library. + Scott was her great delight then, and indeed always, and poetry + was as nectar and ambrosia to her. She had great facility in + writing herself, very charmingly, both poetry and prose, all of + the fantastic and imaginative order, and she had quite a gift + for painting. Considering all the calls made on her time, of + home and family (social, likewise), which were never neglected, + it was wonderful that she could yet find time for all her + writing and painting. Her perseverance and industry in the arts + that she loved were really remarkable. We children greatly + benefited by her love of poetry and story, for she was a true + 'raconteuse' and we drank in with delight the tales from the old + mythologies of romance and adventure. She would tell us of deeds + of 'derring-do' and all that was inspiring in the way of freedom + and love of country. Certainly with her, as with Sir Edward + Clarke, poetry was 'a never failing source of pleasure and + comfort' to the last. (As it was also with me.) In the last year + of her long life she could still repeat her poetic treasures + with the greatest fire and spirit. She had a vigorous and + original personality, with strong and decided views which she + would express with energy. Her hands were full of character, + strong yet most delicate, and much character in her features, + with a smile that lit up her face like a ray of sunshine. Her + maiden name was Sherborn--Ann Sherborn--(her mother's maiden + name, Holgate).... Her relations and ancestors were county + folk--gentlemen farmers some of them. The Sherborns of Bedfont + near Staines, held the great tythe, and her uncle was the + squire. None of the last generation married, the name has died + with them and may be seen only in the little Bedfont churchyard. + + "My mother's uncle (her mother's brother), William Holgate, was + fond of searching out genealogies and he managed to trace the + Abyssinian Braces until it joined our Bruce family tree. There + were many original--and it may be eccentric--characters amongst + my mother's relations and forebears, and many interesting + stories that we loved to hear, about them. Her genealogical + tree interested us greatly, partly because the names were so + curious, as it went back to the early days of history, and + because of the stories connected with them, and also because if + not Bruce himself, his elder brother, David King of Scotland, + figured in it. Then there was Archbishop Holgate of York, who + was a great rogue (I looked up his life in the Minster precincts + when I was there) and hand and glove with Henry VIII in the + spoliation of the monasteries, yet he redeemed himself by the + establishment of Free Schools, which flourish in York to this + day. + + "It may be that this spirit of romance and adventure that we + breathed in from our earliest years, had some influence on my + brother Fred, and fired his imagination; but why from the very + first there should have been the persistent desire like an 'idee + fixe' for Africa, I cannot tell, unless, indeed, it might be + something of 'Abyssinian' Bruce cropping up again. But as a + child he would have a waggon for a toy, to load and unload, and + for his school prize books he would always choose one on Africa. + This desire for the dark continent remained constant in him till + satisfied, and indeed to the last. + + "My mother had quite an unusual interest in, and knowledge of, + natural history, and my father also made some fine collections + of butterflies, etc., which are still to be seen in my brother's + museum. My father's youngest brother, Angiolo--a man of the most + polished and courtly manners--was as dark as my father was fair. + Entirely educated by his mother, there was little in which he + did not excel. He had a beautiful voice and was a charming + singer, often to his own accompaniment on the guitar, and was a + well-known dramatist in his time, some of his plays being most + successful. How well I remember the first night of his 'True to + the Core,' when we all went across the river to the Surrey + Theatre and helped with our feet and umbrellas in the general + enthusiasm. He was a fine actor and dramatic reader, and a + charming artist. We have a perfect gem of his--Don Quixote, + sitting in his study--the colouring, the face and expression, + the painting, are perfect, and one feels that Don Quixote must + have looked just so. The haggard face and the wild look in the + eyes that are seeing visions. But it was unfortunate that my + uncle neglected this talent altogether. My uncle, Harry Selous, + was of course the artist, excelling chiefly, I think, in his + beautiful outlines of the 'Pilgrim's Progress,' and his + 'Metamorphoses of Ovid,' on which subjects he could draw on his + imagination for ever, it seemed. It is a thousand pities they + have never been produced. His illustrations of the Life of Bruce + and Hereward the Wake are fine, and The Prisoners of Calais and + Boadicea are well known. The latter most fine, I think. He would + paint the most charming landscapes with great rapidity, and his + chalk (coloured) and pencil sketches from his travels in + Switzerland are charming too, and endless numbers of them. He + painted some of the famous Coliseum panoramas, each in turn + being painted out by the next one, which always seemed very + dreadful. His original illustrations drawn on wood, were + exquisite, and it was cruel to see how they were spoilt in the + wood-cutting, but he valued his work so lightly that he did not + seem to mind much about it. My grandfather, Gideon Slous, had a + very great talent for painting, and was a fine colourist, quite + like an old master, and he painted some beautiful miniatures + also. He was a man of violent temper." + +Frederick Courtenay Selous was born in the house in Regent's Park on +December 31st, 1851. The other children of his parents were: Florence, +"Locky," now Mrs. Hodges; Annie, married to Mr. R. F. Jones; Sybil, +"Dei," married to Mr. C. A. Jones; Edmund, married to Fanny, daughter of +Mrs. Maxwell (Miss Braddon). He is a well-known student of British +bird-life and has published many interesting books on British Natural +History. + +Of the childhood of Frederick little more need be said. He was an active +little fellow, never more happy than when playing with his wooden waggon +and oxen or listening to his mother's stories of romance and adventure. +At the age of nine he went to school at Bruce Castle, Tottenham, of +which Arthur Hill was the headmaster, and there chiefly distinguished +himself by being constantly in trouble. Later he went for a short time +to a small school in Northamptonshire, kept by the Revd. Charles +Darnell, whose daughter (Mrs. Frank Juckes) recalls one characteristic +incident. + + "One night my father on going round the dormitories to see that + all was in order, discovered Freddy Selous, lying flat on the + bare floor clothed only in his nightshirt. On being asked the + cause of this curious behaviour he replied, 'Well, you see, one + day I am going to be a hunter in Africa and I am just hardening + myself to sleep on the ground.'" + +One day in 1914, I found Selous busy at his desk at Worplesdon. On being +asked what was the nature of his work, he said he was writing an account +of his school days for a boys' magazine. He did not seem to think it +would be of wide interest, and so had written his early adventures in +simple form merely for the perusal of boys and had changed his own name +to that of "John Leroux." + + "It was a damp and dismal winter's day towards the end of + January, 1861, on which the boys reassembled after their + Christmas holidays at a well-known school not far from London. + Nevertheless, despite the gloom and the chilliness of the + weather conditions outside the fine old mansion which had but + lately been converted into a school, there was plenty of life + and animation in the handsome oak-panelled banqueting hall + within, at one end of which a great log fire blazed cheerfully. + Generally speaking the boys seemed in excellent spirits, or at + any rate they made a brave show of being so to keep up + appearances, and the music of their laughter and of their fresh + young voices was good to hear. Here and there, however, a poor + little fellow stood apart, alone and friendless, and with eyes + full of tears. Such unfortunates were the new boys, all of them + youngsters of nine or ten, who had left their homes for the + first time, and whose souls were full of an unutterable misery, + after their recent partings from fond mothers and gentle + sisters. The youngest, and possibly the most home-sick of all + the new boys was standing by himself at some distance from the + fire, entirely oblivious of all that was going on around him, + for he was too miserable to be able to think of anything but the + home in which he had grown to boyhood and all the happiness, + which it seemed to his young soul, he could never know again + amidst his new surroundings. + + "Now as it is this miserable little boy who is to be the hero of + this story, he merits, I think, some description. Though only + just nine years old he looked considerably more, for he was tall + for his age, and strongly built. He was very fair with a + delicate pink and white complexion, which many a lady might have + envied, whilst his eyes sometimes appeared to be grey and + sometimes blue. His features, if not very handsome or regular, + were good enough and never failed to give the impression of an + open and honest nature. Altogether he would have been considered + by most people a typical specimen of an English boy of + Anglo-Saxon blood. Yet, as a matter of fact, as in the case of + so many Englishmen, there was but little of the Saxon element in + his composition, for whilst his father came from the Isle of + Jersey, and was therefore of pure Norman descent, his forebears + on his mother's side were some of them Scotch and others from a + district in the north of England in which the Scandinavian + element is supposed to preponderate over the Saxon. But though + our hero bore a Norman-French name the idea that he was not a + pure-blooded Englishman had never occurred to him, for he knew + that his Jersey ancestors had been loyal subjects of the English + crown ever since, as a result of the battle of Hastings, Duke + William of Normandy became King of England. + + "It was not long before the new boy's melancholy meditations + were rudely broken in upon by a handsome lad of about his own + size, though he was his senior by more than a year. 'Hullo,' + said young Jim Kennedy, looking roguishly into the sad, almost + tearful, eyes of the young Jerseyman, 'who gave you that collar? + Why, you look like Queen Elizabeth.' + + "A fond mother had indeed bedecked her darling boy with a + beautiful collar of lace work several inches in breadth which + spread over his shoulders, but which he soon found it advisable + to discard as it made him the butt of every wit in the school. + But though the collar was suppressed, the name of Queen + Elizabeth, that august lady to whom Kennedy when first + addressing him had declared that his mother's fond gift had + given him a resemblance, stuck to him for many a long day. + + "The laughing, jeering interrogatory, acted like a tonic on the + new boy, who though of a gentle, kindly disposition, possessed a + very hot temper. His soft grey eyes instantly grew dark with + anger as looking his questioner squarely in the face he answered + slowly, 'What is that to you, who gave me my collar?' + + "'Hullo!' again said Jim Kennedy, 'you're a cocky new boy. + What's your name?' + + "'My name is John Leroux,' said the young Jerseyman quietly and + proudly, for his father had taught him to be proud of his Norman + ancestry, and had instilled into his son his own firm belief + that the Normans were a superior people to the Saxons, than whom + he averred they had done more for the advancement of England to + its present great position, and for the spread of the empire of + Britain over half the world. + + "Kennedy repeated the unfamiliar name two or three times, and + then with a derisive laugh said, 'Why, you're a Frenchy.' Now + although it was quite true that on his father's side John Leroux + was of Norman-French descent, for some reason difficult to + analyse, the suggestion that he was a Frenchman filled his young + heart with fury. His face grew scarlet and his fists clenched + involuntarily as he answered fiercely, 'How dare you call me a + Frenchy! I'm not a Frenchman, I'm an Englishman.' + + "'No, you're not,' said Kennedy, 'you're a Frenchy, a + frog-eating Frenchy.' Without another word young Leroux, from + whose face all the colour had now gone, sprang at his tormentor, + and taking him unawares, struck him as hard a blow as he was + capable of inflicting full in the mouth. And then the fight + commenced. + + "Fifty years ago manners were rougher and ruder in these islands + than they are to-day. Prize-fighting was a respected and + popular calling, and set fights between boys at school of all + ages were of constant occurrence. + + "A ring was soon formed around the combatants and though the + majority of the onlookers resented what they called the + 'coxiness' of the new boy and wanted to see him get a licking, + there were quite a number of young barbarians whose sympathies + were entirely with Leroux, for his pluck in engaging in a fight + on his first day at school made a strong appeal to them. The + boys were evenly matched, for though Kennedy was more than a + year older, he was no taller, and little if any stronger than + his opponent, who, moreover, had had a certain amount of + instruction from his father in the use of his fists. The battle + had lasted for some minutes, and had been waged with the + greatest determination on both sides, and no very severe damage + to either participant, when the door at the end of the room + opened and Mr. Mann, the tall young Scotch mathematical master, + strode into the room. Taking in the position at a glance, he + elbowed his way through the crowd of boys, who were watching the + fight, and seizing the combatants simultaneously, each in one of + his strong large hands, he whirled them apart, and held them out + of reach of one another, though they both strained hard to + resume the fray. + + "'You young rascals,' he said, 'why what on earth are you + fighting about, and on the first day of the term too! Now tell + me what on earth it was all about and make it up.' + + "'He called me a Frenchman, and I'm not,' said young Leroux, and + the stress of battle over, the poor boy commenced to sob. + + "A more generous lad than Jim Kennedy never stepped, and at the + sight of his adversary's distress, his dark eyes filled with + tears, and as Mr. Mann relaxed his grasp on his shoulder, he at + once came forward with outstretched hand to Leroux and said, + 'I'll never call you a Frenchy again; shake hands and let us be + friends.' And so the two tearful young Britons, each of whose + faces bore some traces of the recent battle, shook hands and + from that time forth, as long as they were at school together, + became the most devoted of friends. + + "This was John Leroux's first introduction to school life. Like + any other healthy vigorous boy, he soon shook off the + despondency of homesickness, and became perfectly happy in his + new surroundings. He worked well and conscientiously at his + lessons, and played hard at all games, and was not only a + general favourite with all his school-fellows, but was also + beloved by all the masters in spite of the fact that his + adventurous disposition was constantly leading him to transgress + all the rules of the school. With young Leroux the love of + nature and the desire for the acquisition of objects of natural + history of all kinds was an inborn and absorbing passion. Before + leaving home he had already commenced to make collections of + birds' eggs and butterflies, and throughout his schooldays his + interest in these and kindred subjects constantly grew. During + the spring and summer months all his time that was not occupied + in lessons or games was spent in birds'-nesting and collecting + butterflies, whilst in the winter he trapped and skinned water + rats and other small animals, and sometimes caught a stoat or a + weasel. He soon became by far the best and most venturesome + climber in the whole school, and there was not a rook's nest in + any one of the fine old elms or oak-trees in which these birds + built in the park in which the schoolhouse stood, from which he + was not able to get the eggs, which for the most part he gave + away to less athletic or adventurous collectors. After he had + been espied on one occasion high up amongst the nests in one of + the tallest elm-trees by the headmaster himself, who was + genuinely alarmed for his safety, all tree-climbing in the park + was forbidden. This rule was, of course, constantly broken, and + by no one more frequently than by Leroux. However, as it takes + some time to climb to a rook's nest, and as a boy is a + conspicuous object amongst the topmost branches of a tree in the + early spring before the leaves are out, our young friend was + constantly being detected either by one of the undermasters or + one of the men working in the grounds, who had all had strict + orders to be on the watch. It was owing to this persecution, as + he considered it, that Leroux conceived the idea of taking the + rooks' eggs he wanted at night, and with the help of Kennedy + and another kindred spirit he made several raids on the rookery + with perfect success when all the masters were in bed. The + dormitories were on the first story and therefore not very high + above the ground, and as the walls of the house were covered + with ivy, it was not very difficult for an active boy to get out + of the window and down or up the ivy-covered wall, with the help + of the rope which Leroux brought from home in his portmanteau + after one Christmas holiday. Having allowed sufficient time to + pass after Mons. Delmar, the French master, had made his nightly + rounds to see that all the boys were snug in bed, and all lights + out, Leroux and Kennedy, who were in the same dormitory, and who + had both apparently been fast asleep when the French master + passed through the room, suddenly woke up and producing a candle + and a box of matches from beneath their respective pillows, + kindled a light and hastily made their preparations. The window + having been softly opened, one end of the rope was fastened to + one of the legs of the nearest bed, whilst the free end was + lowered down the wall to the ground. This having been + accomplished the candle was blown out, and then Leroux and + Kennedy climbed down the ivy with the help of the rope. Although + all the boys in the dormitory took the greatest interest in + these proceedings and were ready to render any assistance + necessary, a boy named Barnett always hauled up the rope as soon + as the adventurers were on the ground, and hid it under the bed + near the window in case of accidents until their return, for + which he kept a sharp look-out. Once on the ground Leroux and + his companion made their way to one or other of several large + oak-trees in the park in which there were a number of rooks' + nests; for these oaks were not only not as lofty as the elms, + but were, moreover, much easier to climb. Kennedy, though a + fairly good climber, was not the equal of Leroux in this + respect, and after assisting the latter to reach the lowest + branches, he always waited for his return at the foot of the + tree. When the rooks were thus rudely disturbed at night, they + always made what seemed to the two boys a most appalling noise, + but if anyone ever heard it he never guessed the true cause, or + took any steps to investigate its meaning, and although during + three successive years the two boys raided the rookery on + several different occasions, their escapades were never + discovered or even suspected. Once, however, they only just got + back into their dormitory before the policeman made his nightly + round. As a rule he did not make his circuit of the house + flashing his lantern on all the windows until after midnight, + but on the occasion in question he came much earlier than usual, + and Leroux and Kennedy had only just scrambled up the + ivy-covered wall, and reached their room with the assistance of + the rope which the watchful Barnett had let down for them, when + they saw the policeman's lantern flash round the end of the + house, through their still open window, which they then closed + very cautiously without making any noise. It was the policeman's + nightly round of the house, which was thus so forcibly brought + to his notice, that gave Leroux an idea, which he and Kennedy + and Barnett, together with some other boys, subsequently acted + upon with great success. This was nothing more nor less than to + play a practical joke on the policeman by hanging a dummy figure + out of the window one night, on which he would be sure to flash + his lantern when he made his round of the house. In each + dormitory there was a huge clothes-basket, not very high but + very capacious, and choosing an evening when their basket was + very full of clothes for the wash, Leroux and his friends, with + the help of a bolster, a coat, shirt, and pair of trousers, and + some of the contents of the clothes-basket, made a very good + imitation of the figure of a boy. The top end of the bolster + which was pinched in a little lower down by the shirt collar, + made a nice round ball for the head, and on this a mask and a + tow wig, which had been bought just before Guy Fawkes day, were + fixed. Then the rope which had done such good service on the + occasions of the raids on the rookery, was fastened round the + dummy figure's neck, and the really meritorious imitation of a + dead boy lowered out of the window and allowed to dangle some + six feet beneath it. The head, which with its mask and wig of + tow now hung over to one side, gave the somewhat podgy and + certainly very inanimate looking figure quite a realistic + appearance. The work of preparing this figure after the French + master had been round the dormitories, occupied the boys some + time, and when at last, after the rope had been fastened round + its neck, it was lowered out of the window, it was past eleven + o'clock. The boys then took it in turns to watch for the coming + of the policeman, each watcher kneeling at the window well + wrapped in his bedclothes. It was Barnett who was on duty when + at last the policeman came. 'Cavy,' he whispered, 'here he + comes,' and all the boys, whose excitement had kept them awake, + made their way to the window, across which the light of the + lantern soon flashed. The result was immediate and exceeded the + utmost expectations of Leroux and his companions. The + policeman--a young man but lately enrolled in the force--was + seen to be gesticulating and shouting at the top of his voice, + evidently trying to attract the attention of those in the room + above him, from which the boy figure, with its ghastly pale + cardboard face, hung dangling at the end of a rope. There was, + however, no response from the listening boys. Suddenly the + policeman ceased his outcries, and running down the footpath + turned the corner of the house. Immediately after there was a + terrific banging at the front door, accompanied by loud + shouting. 'Quick,' said Leroux, 'up with the window, and let's + get the dummy in.' At the same time Kennedy ran to the further + door of the dormitory and holding it slightly ajar, peered out + on the landing, which overlooked the large hall at the end of + which was the main entrance of the house from whence all the + noise proceeded. And now anxious voices were heard, and lights + appeared from all directions. 'Old Rex'--the headmaster--'has + opened the hall door,' said Kennedy, 'and is talking to the + policeman. My eye,' he continued, 'Old Cockeye's there too, + she's crying out and snuffling like a good 'un.' I grieve to say + that 'Old Cockeye' was the disrespectful nickname which had been + given by the boys to the matron--a most exemplary lady with an + unfortunate squint in the left eye. And now there was a babble + of approaching voices as the party in the hall rapidly ascended + the staircase leading to the dormitories. Kennedy softly closed + the door at which he had been listening, and already Leroux and + Barnett had shut the window after having pulled up the rope with + the dummy figure attached to the end of it, which was hastily + thrust under the nearest bed. 'Mind we're all asleep; we don't + know anything about it,' said Kennedy in a loud whisper as he + jumped into his bed and composed his features into an appearance + of placid innocence, which indeed was the attitude adopted by + all the other boys in the room. Then the dormitory door was + thrown wide open and the headmaster rushed in, candle in hand, + closely followed by the policeman, the matron and two of the + undermasters. At the same time the door of the other end of the + room was flung open, and a strange half-clad figure, with wild + eyes and candle in hand, came forward amongst the sleeping boys + not one of whom, strange to say, showed the slightest sign of + having been in any way disturbed by all the hubbub. 'Mon Dieu,' + said Mons. Delmar, 'qu'est-ce qu'il y a donc?' as he ran to meet + the headmaster. The latter was indeed a pathetic figure as he + stood half-dressed looking round the room with wild eyes, his + long grey hair falling over his shoulders. In his right hand he + held a candlestick, whilst his left was clasped over his + forehead. 'Great God,' he said, 'no--no--impossible,' as if + talking to himself, and then suddenly turning to the policeman, + 'Why, officer, you must be mistaken, every boy is here in his + bed.' + + "'I seed him, sir; I seed him with my own eyes, indeed I did,' + answered the policeman. + + "'Oh, deary, deary, deary me,' wailed the matron, whose + unfortunate obliquity of vision had gained her so irreverent a + nickname. + + "'Which window was it, officer?' asked the headmaster. + + "'The one near the end of the room,' replied the policeman. In + another moment the window in question was thrown wide open and + several heads were protruded into the cold night air. + + "'There's nothing here,' said the headmaster. + + "'Well, I'm ----' said the policeman, leaving it to his + audience to finish the sentence according to their several + inclinations. At this moment an exclamation from the French + master caused everyone to turn round. In his anxiety to get to + the window, one of the undermasters had pushed the end of + Leroux's bed sharply to one side--without however awakening its + occupant--and exposed to the Frenchman's sharp eyes a portion of + the rope which had been attached to the dummy figure which was + the cause of all the excitement. Stooping down to catch hold of + it, he at once saw the dummy under the bed, and pulled it out + with an exclamation which Leroux afterwards affirmed was + certainly 'sacre.' + + "'Well, I'm ----' again said the policeman, without going any + further, and so again leaving his hearers in doubt as to what he + was. Old Rex, the headmaster, then seized Leroux by the + shoulder, and shook him violently, but for some time without any + other effect than to cause him to snore loudly; otherwise he + appeared not only to be fast asleep, but to have sunk into a + kind of comatose condition. At last, however, he could stand the + shaking no longer, and so opened his eyes. + + "'Do you know anything about this, Leroux?' said old Rex + sternly. + + "'Yes, sir,' said Leroux. + + "'It was a cruel hoax,' said the headmaster. + + "'I wanted to play a joke on the Bobby,' said Leroux. + + "'Well, I'm ----' murmured that functionary, once more + discreetly veiling any further information which might otherwise + have been forthcoming by covering his mouth with his left hand. + + "'Officer, these boys have played a shameful trick on you, but + you did your duty. I'm sorry that you should have been disturbed + in this way. Boys, I know you are all awake, I shall inquire + into this matter to-morrow.' So saying, but looking very much + relieved, the headmaster turned on his heel and left the room, + followed by all those who had entered it with him after having + been roused from their sleep by the policeman. + + "Now 'old Rex,' the headmaster of the fine school at which our + hero acquired the rudiments of learning, was a reformer and an + idealist, and corporal chastisement was never inflicted on the + boys on any consideration whatever. The punishments for minor + offences were various tasks during play hours, or compulsory + walks conducted by old Rex himself, and which most of the boys + rather enjoyed. For more serious misdemeanours the offending + scholars were separated from their fellows, and placed in + solitary confinement in a distant part of the house for periods + ranging from a day to a week, during which they got nothing to + eat or drink but dry bread with a mere trace of butter on it, + and weak tea. As a sequel to the great dummy joke, the fame of + which by some means was spread through all the neighbouring + parishes, Leroux and Kennedy, who acknowledged that they were + the ringleaders in the matter, were condemned to three days' + solitary confinement, to be followed by various tasks and + compulsory walks during the play hours of the following week, + whilst the rest of the boys in the dormitory got off with some + extra lessons to be learnt whilst their school-fellows were + enjoying themselves in the playground during the next two + half-holidays, and a long lecture on the heinousness of the + crime, to which old Rex said with perfect truth he believed they + had been willing accessories. + + "After the perpetration of the dummy joke, however, the French + master, whether on his own initiative or at the instigation of + the headmaster, commenced to make himself a great nuisance, not + only coming round the dormitories with a lighted candle as usual + soon after the boys had gone to bed, but often returning later + on without a candle and wearing carpet slippers. The single + combats and inter-dormitory bolster-fights which were a feature + of the school-life were constantly being interfered with. The + door of the dormitory in which our hero slept had always to be + kept ajar and a boy placed there to watch for the coming of + Mons. Delmar when any fun was going on, and the suddenness with + which at the single word 'cavy,' the confused noise of an + animated bolster-fight was succeeded by the most deathlike + stillness was truly astonishing. Before Mons. Delmar could + strike a light, every boy was not only in bed, but sleeping so + soundly that nothing the puzzled French master could say or do + could arouse them to consciousness. Various plans were discussed + by the most enterprising boys in the different dormitories, with + a view to discouraging these informal visits after the lights + had been put out. One night a piece of cord was tied by Leroux + across the gangway at about a foot from the ground between the + two beds nearest the door of the room in which he slept, over + which it was hoped Mons. Delmar would trip on entering. On this + occasion, however, he did not enter the room at all, but after + opening the door, lighted the candle he held in his hand and + merely looked round, turning on his heels again without speaking + a word. It was hoped that he had not noticed the string, and + another opportunity might be given him of falling over it. On + the next night, however, the boys in the adjoining dormitory set + a trap for him by placing the large inverted clothes-basket over + the half open door of the room, in such a way that it would, + with reasonable good luck, be very likely to fall like an + extinguisher over the head and shoulders of anyone entering the + dormitory, and when Mons. Delmar presently pushed the door open, + down came the large wicker basket. As it was dark it was + impossible to determine exactly whether it came down over his + head and shoulders or only fell on his head, but his candlestick + was certainly knocked out of his hand and he swore most volubly + in his own language. After having found and lighted his candle + he first harangued his young tormentors, all of whom were + apparently overcome by a deathlike sleep, and then went straight + off to the headmaster's study. The result of his complaint was + the infliction of certain tasks and compulsory walks on all the + occupants of the offending dormitory, but after this there was + no further spying on the boys. Poor Mons. Delmar! no doubt he + had only been acting under instructions, though perhaps he + entered on his detective duties a little too zealously. + + "Altogether John Leroux spent four very happy years at his first + school, and besides making good progress with his lessons, + showed great aptitude for all games and athletic exercises, + especially football and swimming. Ever since the fight on the + evening of the day of his first entrance to the school he and + Kennedy had been the closest of friends. The two boys had paid + several visits to one another's homes during the holidays, and + it was chiefly because Kennedy's parents had decided to send + their son to a great public school in the Midlands, for the + entrance examination for which he had been undergoing a special + preparation, that it was finally decided that Leroux should be + sent to the same seat of learning. Up till then, however, + Leroux, though well advanced for his age in all other subjects, + had been spared the study of Greek, at the particular request of + his father, who as a practical business man, looked upon the + time spent by a schoolboy in acquiring a very imperfect + knowledge of any dead language, save Latin, as entirely wasted. + But to pass the entrance examination for any of our great public + schools fifty years ago some knowledge of Greek was absolutely + necessary, and so when Kennedy at the age of fourteen, passed + into the great school, his friend Leroux who hoped to rejoin him + there as soon as he had reached the same age, was in the + meantime sent to the establishment of a clergyman living in a + remote village in Northamptonshire to be specially coached in + Greek. + + "The Rev. Charles Darnell, Rector of the parish of Belton, was a + short stout elderly man of a very easy-going disposition, who + exercised but little supervision over the dozen pupils he was + able to find accommodation for in his rambling old Rectory. But + he employed a couple of good tutors well up to their work, and + his son, who was a curate in a neighbouring parish and just as + irascible as his father was placid in temperament, also helped + to coach the boys in his charge. + + "At the time of our story Belton was a small village of + stonebuilt cottages, all the windows in which were of the old + diamond-paned pattern. The village was dominated by an ancient + and picturesque church, surrounded by yew-trees, amongst which + were scattered the moss-grown tombstones of many generations of + Beltonians. A feature of the churchyard was the family vault of + a large landowner in the neighbourhood. The present + representative of this ancient family, locally known as 'old + squire,' was an eccentric bachelor, who lived in a picturesque + old Manor House with only two or three servants. It was said in + the village that he had never been seen outside the boundaries + of his estate for many years, and that he seldom walked abroad + even in his own grounds till after dark. + + "It was during his first term, in very early spring, that + Leroux, accompanied by a fellow-pupil, took a wood-owl's eggs + from a hollow ash-tree in the deserted park, and he subsequently + spent many of his half-holidays birds'-nesting all over the + neglected estate. He never met a keeper, nor, indeed, anyone + else to question his right to be there, not even in the empty + stables or in the thick shrubberies and weed-grown plots of + ground near the great house which had once been gardens. There + were two small lakes in the park, and in one of them during the + autumn and winter months Leroux and one or two of his more + adventurous fellow-students used to set 'trimmers,' on which + they caught a good many pike, some of quite a good size, and now + and again they shot a moorhen with a saloon pistol which + belonged to a boy named Short. + + "Whatever the boys caught or shot was taken to a certain cottage + in the village, the residence of an old woman who was a very + clever cook, and at this cottage Leroux and his friends enjoyed + many a good meal of baked pike stuffed with the orthodox + 'pudding,' and even found the moorhens, which the old woman + skinned before cooking, very palatable. + + "Belton being in the centre of a noted hunting-country, the + hounds sometimes passed in full cry within sight of the Rectory, + and whenever this happened the Rector's pupils were allowed by + an old-established custom, even if they were in the middle of a + lesson, to throw down their books and join in the run. + + "During the year he spent at the Rectory Leroux worked hard at + his lessons, and made good progress in Greek as well as in all + other subjects which he had to get up, in view of the + approaching entrance examination to the great Midland school. + Games were neglected at this period, as there were not enough + pupils at the Rectory to make up two sides either at football or + cricket, but for Leroux and his fellow-pupils of similar tastes, + the old squire's deserted estate formed a most glorious + playground in which they found a fine field for the exercise and + development of the primitive instincts which had come down to + them from their distant ancestors of palaeolithic times. The + only pranks that Leroux indulged in during his year at Belton + were all connected with the old church of which Mr. Darnell was + the incumbent, and at which his pupils were obliged to attend + the two services held every Sunday. As in many of the old + churches in the remote districts of Northamptonshire at that + time, there was no organ, but the hymns were sung to an + accompaniment of flute, violin and 'cello, the performers on + these instruments being seated in a kind of minstrels' gallery + at the end of the church facing the pulpit. + + "After the service on Sunday evening the musical instruments + were taken by the musicians to their own homes, but one Sunday + afternoon Leroux and Short--the owner of the saloon + pistol--surreptitiously entered the church and thoroughly soaped + the bows of the violin- and violoncello-players, and introduced + several peas into the flute. That evening the music was very + defective, but although the musicians knew that their + instruments had been tampered with there is no reason to believe + that they ever suspected that any of the Rector's 'young + gentlemen' had had anything to do with the trick which had been + played upon them. In future, however, the bows and the flute + were removed between the services, as Leroux discovered about a + month later, when he thought it was time to repeat his first + successful experiment. An aged parishioner, who was always + dressed in a smock-frock and grey woollen stockings, had his + seat on a bench just in front of the pews where Mr. Darnell's + pupils sat. This old man invariably removed his shoes on sitting + down, and placed them carefully under his seat, and on several + occasions during the sermon, Leroux managed to remove them with + the help of a stick to the end of which a piece of wire in the + shape of a hook had been attached. Once the shoes had been + drawn to Leroux's seat they were passed down by the other boys + from pew to pew, and finally left at a considerable distance + from their original place of deposition. The old fellow always + made a great fuss about the removal of his shoes, which not only + amused the Rector's pupils and all the younger members of the + congregation, but must also have had an exhilarating influence + on the spirits of their elders, upon whom the effect of the + usual dull sermon always appeared to be very sedative to say the + least of it. However, no public complaint was ever made, and + when the old man at length took the precaution to keep his shoes + on his feet during service, all temptation to meddle with them + was removed." + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] The body was sent home in a cask of brandy which was said to have +been partially drunk by the sailors. This gruesome theft was known as +"tapping the admiral." + +[2] The occasion of this speech was when the society of St. Hubert +presented Selous with the medal of the "Academie des Sports," "pour +services rendus a la Chasse aux grandes fauves" on July 15th, 1911. + + + + +CHAPTER II +1865-1870 + + +When the time came for Fred to go to Rugby both Mr. Darnell and Mr. Hill +advised Mr. Wilson, to whose house it was proposed to send him, not on +any account to have a boy whose escapades would be a constant source of +trouble, but fortunately Mr. Wilson liked 'naughty' boys and disregarded +their warnings. + +Selous entered Rugby in January, 1866, and was a pupil in Mr. Wilson's +house for two years. His letters to his mother at this period are of the +usual schoolboy type, mostly requests for money, books or additions to +the commissariat. He was always reading when he got the chance, the +choice invariably tending towards travel and adventure. He writes:-- + + "_January, 1866._ + + "I am reading a new book by Mr. Livingstone. It is called 'The + Zambesi and its Tributaries,' from 1858-1864. It is very + interesting and is about the discovery of two large lakes. Send + me two catapults." And "I am sorry to hear the rat skins are + eaten, but very glad that the stoat's has not met with the same + fate." Another letter shows his consideration for his parents in + the matter of money and is somewhat characteristic. + + "MY DEAR MAMA, + + "I hope you are quite well, I am now at Rugby and very + comfortable. I have a study with another boy, and we have an + allowance of candles and tea and sugar, etc., given out every + week, and we make our own tea and breakfast in our studies and + it is very nice indeed. I have passed into Upper Middle two + when Lower Middle two would have done. I have to pay over some + subscriptions. + + "L1 subscription to the racket court. + + "10s. to football club, 10s. to cricket club, 10s. for our own + house subscription, all of which I am forced to pay. I have to + buy a great many things which I could not help and I have spent + a lot of my money on them. I will write them down to show you + that not one of them was extravagance but quite the opposite. + + "7s. 6d. to have my watch mended, 1s. to go to Harbro' to get my + watch and come back. 1s. to have my dirty clothes washed. 2s. + for a book I have to use at Rugby which I had not got. 3s. to + come from Welton to Rugby after coming back to get my boxes. All + these were necessary, weren't they? + + "It is not my fault that there are such a lot of expenses at a + public school, but it is only the first half. Please send in a + registered letter, I have seen a great many boys receive them. I + have passed very high, 10th out of 75, and that will partly make + up to you for some of the subscriptions. Give my best love to + Papa and brothers and sisters. + + "I remain your affectionate son, + "Freddy." + + +From this time his life at Rugby is thus given in his own words:-- + + "In January, 1866, when John Leroux was just fourteen years of + age, he easily passed the entrance examination to the great + school in the Midlands and became a member of the house which + his old friend Jim Kennedy had entered just a year earlier. Here + he spent two and a half very happy years, and as at the end of + that time he was only sixteen, he would in the ordinary course + have continued his studies for at least another two years before + leaving school, had it not been his father's wish that he should + go abroad to learn French and German before reaching an age at + which it would be necessary to settle down to the real business + of life and make his own living. At the great school there were + three half-holidays weekly, but the boys were expected to do a + good deal of preparation for the next day's lessons during their + leisure time. Some boys shirked these out-of-class studies, but + Leroux always did whatever was expected of him most + conscientiously and often very slowly and with much labour, as + he never used a crib to assist him with his Latin and Greek + translations. He was not at all brilliant, but was well up in + the school for his age, and had he stayed another term would + have been in the sixth--the highest form in the school. However + famous the great Midland school may have been fifty years ago, + as a seat of learning, it was certainly not less famous for the + great game of football, the playing of which was as compulsory + on the scholars as the study of Greek. Primitive Rugby football + was a very different affair to the highly scientific game of the + present day. There was more running with the ball, far less + kicking into touch, and no heeling out behind the scrimmage. + Hacking was not only permissible but was one of the main + features of the game, and when the ball was put down in the + scrimmage the object of each side was to 'hack it through,' that + is, to clear a path for the ball by kicking the shins of every + one in the way as hard as possible. There were twenty boys on + each side in the old Rugby game of whom the backs and half-backs + only numbered five altogether--such a thing as a three-quarter + back was undreamt of--so that there were fifteen forwards on + each side. When anyone ran with the ball, the cry was 'hack him + over,' and as often as not the runner was brought down with a + neat kick on the shin. It was altogether a rough, possibly a + rather brutal game; but it made the boys strong and hardy, and + with the exception of badly bruised shins there were very few + accidents. A young boy, on his first entrance to the big school, + could only wear duck trousers at football, but if he played up, + and did not flinch from the hacking, the Captain of his twenty + gave him his 'flannels' and then exchanged his duck for flannel + trousers. There was no school twenty, and therefore no school + cap, and all the most hotly contested matches were between the + different houses for the honour of being 'cock house.' Every + house had its own cap, but in each house, except in the case of + the school house, where there was a large number of pupils, + there were only a few caps in each football twenty. For + instance, in Leroux's house, where there were fifty-two pupils, + there were only four who had got their caps. Though one of the + youngest boys in the house Leroux threw himself into the game + with a zest and enthusiasm which at once compelled attention, + and won him his 'flannels' in his first term, and after playing + up well in the first great match in the autumn term of the same + year he was given his cap. He thus got his cap whilst still in + his fourteenth year, and was the youngest boy in the whole + school who possessed that much-coveted prize. The only other + sport besides football indulged in by the boys at the great + school during the term between Christmas and Easter was that + known as 'house washing.' Led by one of the oldest and strongest + boys, the whole house were accustomed to spend one half-holiday + every week, during the cold, damp, dreary months of February and + March, in jumping backwards and forwards over a small brook or + river, which at that time of the year was usually swollen by + recent rain. The first jumps were taken across the narrowest + parts of the stream, and here only the youngest and weakest boys + got into the water. But it was a point of honour to go on taking + bigger and bigger jumps, until every boy in the house had failed + to reach the opposite bank and all had got thoroughly soused. + The last jump was known as 'Butler's Leap.' Here the stream ran + through a tunnel beneath one of the high roads traversing the + district, but before doing so it ran for a short distance + parallel with the road, which had been built up to the height of + the bridge above it. From the brick wall on either side of the + bridge low wooden barriers, perhaps two and a half feet high, + had been placed on the slope of the road on either side to the + level of the fields below, and it was thus possible to get a run + across the whole width of the road and leap the low barrier in + an attempt to reach the opposite bank of the stream, which was + here over twenty feet wide, and some twenty feet below the level + of the top of the bridge. A hero named Butler had either been + the first boy to attempt this desperate leap, or he had + actually cleared the stream and landed on the opposite bank. + Tradition concerning the details of the exploit varied, but + whether Butler had made the great jump or only attempted it, he + had immortalised his name by his daring. Now, only the biggest + and most venturesome boys in each house were expected to attempt + Butler's Leap, but nevertheless some of the younger ones always + had a try at it, and amongst these were Kennedy and Leroux. They + cleared the wooden barrier at the side of the road, and fell + through the air into the stream below, but far short of the + further bank, which they had to reach by swimming. + + "From a perusal of the letters which Leroux faithfully wrote + every week to his mother, it would seem that with the exception + of the fierce football contests for 'cock' house, and occasional + snowball encounters with the town 'louts'--the contemptuous + appellation given by the boys at the school to all their + fellow-citizens--all his most interesting experiences were + connected with his passion for birds'-nesting, and the pursuit + of sport, at first with a saloon pistol and subsequently with a + pea-rifle, on the domains of neighbouring landowners. The master + of Leroux's house was a man of very fine character and most + kindly disposition, and was much beloved by all his pupils. He + was always a most kind friend to Leroux, and being a teacher of + natural science--it was certain experiments in chemistry which + had earned for him amongst the boys the sobriquet of 'Jim + Stinks'--was much drawn to him by his very pronounced taste for + the study of natural history, and his practical knowledge of + English birds and beasts. In his second year at the school, + Leroux got into the first mathematical set in the upper school, + and on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, and on every third + week on Mondays as well, had no lessons in school, after 10.15 + in the morning. But on these half-holidays, or almost whole + holidays, all the boys in the school had to attend and answer to + their names at a 'call over' which was held at the big school + during the afternoon, and from which no boy could escape except + with the written permission of his house-master. During the + summer Leroux's kindly house-master often allowed his favourite + pupil to be absent from 'call over,' and he was thus able, by + taking the train, to visit districts and pursue his + ornithological rambles at quite a long distance from the school. + On these distant excursions, however, although he paid no + attention whatever to the numerous notice-boards intimating that + trespassers would be prosecuted, he was never caught by a + gamekeeper, though he had some good runs to escape their + attentions. In the more immediate vicinity of the school, + possibly the keepers were more on the look-out for + birds'-nesting boys, who were often brought up by their captors + before the headmaster, the great Dr. Temple, familiarly known in + the school as 'Old Froddy.' This great and good man, however, + always let the young trespassers off very lightly. + + "One Sunday afternoon Leroux was pursued by a gamekeeper to the + very doors of the chapel, and indeed it was only under the + stimulus of this pursuit that he could possibly have got in in + time for the service, and 'cutting chapel' meant having to write + out the whole of the fourth Georgic of Virgil, which was just + over 500 lines. When the bell ceased tolling, Leroux was still + some distance from the chapel door, and handicapped besides with + the top-hat, which all the boys always had to wear on Sunday, + and a clutch of sparrowhawk's eggs twisted up in his + handkerchief, on which he had to hold his hand in his + coat-pocket, to prevent them from shaking together. But old + Patey, who always checked off the boys at 'call over' and on + their entrance to the chapel, took in the situation at a glance + and held the door ajar till Leroux got inside, and then slammed + it to in the gamekeeper's face. Leroux fully expected that his + pursuer would wait outside till chapel was over and try and + identify him as he came out, but he probably got tired of + waiting or else thought it impossible to pick out the boy he had + chased and of whom he had only had a back view, amongst over + five hundred other boys. + + "About three miles from the big school in the midst of a wide + expanse of undulating meadow-land, interspersed with small + woods, stood the fine old manor house of Pilton Range. As there + was no game preservation on this estate, there were no keepers + to shoot down magpies, carrion crows, kestrels and sparrowhawks, + and Leroux consequently found it a very fine hunting ground for + the nests of these birds. One day soon after the Easter + holidays, and during his second year at the big school, Leroux + paid a visit to the Pilton Range grounds, to look at a magpie's + nest which he had found building a fortnight before. He was + walking along a high hedge bordering a field, about a mile away + from the house, when a man dressed as a labourer climbed over a + gate at the other end of the field and came walking towards him. + Now Leroux had often met labouring men on the Pilton Range + estate before, but had never been interfered with in any way by + them, so he paid no attention to the man who was now coming + towards him, but walked quietly to meet him. The heavily built + labourer came slouching along, apparently without taking the + slightest interest in the approaching boy, but just as he was + passing him, and without having previously spoken a word, he + shot out his right hand, and caught Leroux by the waistcoat just + beneath the collar. 'Well, what do you want?' said Leroux. + + "'You come along o' me to Mr. Blackstone'--the bailiff of the + Pilton Range estate--said the labourer. Now Leroux had set his + heart on visiting the magpie's nest, which he thought would be + sure to contain eggs by now, and he was very averse to having + his plans deranged by a visit to Mr. Blackstone. He first + therefore offered to give his name to his captor to be reported + to the headmaster, and when this proposition was received with a + derisive laugh he pulled a letter from his coat pocket, and + offered the envelope as a proof of his veracity. Possibly the + heavy-looking lout who had taken him prisoner could not read. At + any rate he never even glanced at the envelope which Leroux held + out for his inspection, but merely repeating his invitation to + 'come along o' me to Mr. Blackstone,' proceeded to walk towards + the gate in the corner of the field at which he had made his + first appearance. Leroux felt that he was very firmly held, for + the labourer's fingers had passed through the armhole of his + waistcoat, so he at first pretended to be resigned to his fate, + and walked quietly along beside his obdurate captor. Just before + reaching the gate, however, he gave a sudden wrench, and almost + got free, but on his waistcoat beginning to tear, desisted. In + the struggle, however, boy and man had swung face to face, as + the labourer held Leroux with his right hand clenched on the + left side of the boy's waistcoat near the collar. After this + Leroux refused to walk beside his captor any further, but forced + him to walk backwards and pull him every step of the way, and as + he was then fifteen years old and a strong heavy boy for his + age, their progress was slow. Fortunately for the labourer he + was able to open the gate in the corner of the field in which he + had made his capture, as well as two others which had to be + passed before reaching the Hall, with his left hand, for he + would never have been able to have got Leroux over these gates. + Leroux would have attacked the man with his fists and hacked him + on the shins, but he knew that that would have put him in the + wrong with the headmaster, so he just leaned back, and made his + captor walk backwards and pull him along every step of the way + up to the Hall. He also made a point of bringing his heels down + heavily on the labourer's feet at every step. At last, however, + Leroux was dragged through the open gates of the great archway + leading into the courtyard of Pilton Range, where at that moment + Mr. Blackstone the bailiff happened to be standing just outside + his office door. He was a tall, grim-looking old man with + iron-grey hair, and seemed to be leaning heavily on a thick + stick he held in his right hand as if he was slightly lame. + + "'I've brought un to see Mr. Blackstone,' said the perspiring + labourer, still holding Leroux in his grasp. + + "'You young rascal, I'd like to lay this stick about your back,' + said Mr. Blackstone, brandishing that formidable weapon in front + of the captive. Then putting his left hand in his waistcoat + pocket, he extracted a coin with his finger and thumb which + Leroux thought was a two-shilling piece and offered it to his + employee, remarking, 'Here's something for you, John; I see + you've had some trouble with this young rascal.' + + "Then addressing Leroux he said, 'Now, boy, I want your name.' + The labourer received the proffered piece of silver in his left + hand, but force of habit caused him, no doubt quite + unconsciously, to release his hold of Leroux with his right hand + at the same time in order to touch his cap to Mr. Blackstone in + acknowledgment of his employer's generosity. On the instant that + Leroux felt himself free he was round and through the great + archway almost at a bound. + + "'After him, John,' he heard the irate bailiff shout, and the + discomfited labourer at once gave chase, but he stood no chance + whatever of overtaking the active, well-trained boy, and when + Leroux half broke, half jumped through the hedge at the bottom + of the field below the Hall, he was pursued no further. After + scrambling through the hedge and running in its shelter to the + corner of the field he was then in, Leroux stood on the watch + for some little time, and then feeling very elated at the way in + which he had given the bailiff the slip, without letting him + know his name, determined not to leave the Pilton Range ground + without looking at the magpie's nest, he had been on his way to + examine when first seized by the labourer. As he had expected he + found that the nest contained a full complement of eggs, which + were that evening carefully blown and added to his collection, + which was even then quite the best made by any boy in the whole + school. On his many subsequent visits to the Pilton Range + estate, Leroux took good care never to allow any labouring man + he happened to see to get anywhere near him, nor did he ever + renew his acquaintance with Mr. Blackstone. + + "Of all his birds'-nesting exploits, the one which Leroux + himself always considered the greatest achievement was his raid + on the Heronry at Tombe Abbey. Tombe Abbey was about fifteen + miles distant from the big school, and it was during his second + year of study there, that whilst rambling in that neighbourhood + on a day when he had been excused from attending all 'callings + over' by his house-master, Leroux had noticed a number of herons + flying over the park in the midst of which the Abbey stood. He + at once entered the sacred precincts to investigate, and soon + discovered the Heronry situated on an island in the middle of a + large sheet of ornamental water. The twenty or thirty large + nests of sticks were built as is always the case in England, + high up in a grove of large trees growing on the island. Leroux + watched the herons from amongst some bushes on the edge of the + lake for some time and assured himself that there were young + birds in most if not in all of the nests, as he could see their + parents feeding them. To have swum across the lake to the island + and then climb up to one or more of the nests in the hope of + finding some eggs would therefore probably have been a bootless + quest, and at that time perhaps Leroux would hardly have been + able to have summoned up sufficient courage for such an + undertaking, but all through the following months the idea of + one day swimming to the island in the park at Tombe Abbey and + taking some herons' eggs, grew in his mind, and when he returned + to school after the following Christmas holidays, he had fully + determined to make the attempt. Through reference to an + ornithological work in his house-library Leroux had learned that + herons are very early breeders, so he made his plans + accordingly, and obtained leave from his house-master to be + absent from all 'callings over' on March 7th, and hurrying to + the station as soon as his mathematical lesson was over at a + quarter past ten in the morning, he took the first train to the + nearest station to Tombe Abbey. It was a bitterly cold day with + a dull sky and the wind in the east, and when, after making his + way cautiously across the park, Leroux reached the shelter of + the bushes on the edge of the lake, he found that there was a + fringe of thin ice all round the water's edge. In one way, + however, the cold dreary day was favourable to the boy's + enterprise, as no one was likely to be out walking in the park. + Under cover of the bushes Leroux stripped himself to the skin, + and without any hesitation waded into the ice-cold water, until + it became deep enough to allow him to swim. At this time he was + probably the best swimmer in the whole school, for during his + first year and when only fourteen years of age he had won the + second prize in the annual swimming-match, and would certainly + have taken the first prize the following year, but for some + reason or other there was no competition. In his third year and + a few months after his visit to Tombe Abbey when the competition + was again revived, he met with an accident at cricket on the + very morning of the race, which destroyed his chances of winning + it. Once in the deep water of the lake, Leroux, swimming with a + strong sidestroke, soon reached the island in the centre, and + selecting the easiest tree to climb in which some of the herons' + nests were built, naked as he was, he lost no time in getting up + to them. There were four eggs in each of the two nests he + actually inspected, and transferring these to an empty + sponge-bag which he had brought with him, and which he now held + in his mouth, he soon reached the ground again at the foot of + the tree without having broken or even cracked a single egg. A + hasty look round assured him that no one was in sight anywhere + in the park, so still holding the sponge-bag containing the + eight large blue eggs in his teeth, he soon recrossed the lake + to the mainland, and then lost no time in pulling his clothes + over his wet and shivering limbs. But though his teeth were + chattering, Leroux's young heart was full of joy and exultation + at the successful accomplishment of his enterprise, and he + thought but little of his personal discomfort. Once dressed he + soon reached the boundary of the park, and early in the + afternoon was able to report himself to his house-master, though + he did not think it necessary to enter into any details as to + his day's ramble, and probably had it not been for the fact that + the great Midland school at this time boasted a natural history + society, of which Leroux was a prominent member as well as + keeper of the ornithological note-book, the incident of the + taking of the herons' eggs at Tombe Abbey might never have been + known to anyone but a few of Leroux's most intimate friends. + However, at the next evening meeting of the society, in the + innocence of his heart Leroux exhibited the great blue eggs, the + contemplation of which was still his chief joy. One of the + undermasters, Mr. Kitchener, was that night in the chair, and + this unprincipled pedagogue, after having obtained the admission + from Leroux that he had taken the herons' eggs himself, + required him in the most unsportsmanlike manner to state exactly + when and where he had become possessed of them. All + prevarication was foreign to Leroux's nature, and when thus + challenged he did not hesitate to tell the story of his visit to + Tombe Abbey, and how he had swum across the lake and climbed to + the herons' nests stark naked on a cold day in early March. The + hardihood of the exploit, however, made no appeal to the mean + soul of Mr. Kitchener, who not only confiscated the herons' eggs + on the spot, but ordered Leroux to write out the fourth Georgic + of Virgil, a very common punishment at public schools in those + days, as it runs to almost exactly 500 lines. Through the good + offices of his own house-master the herons' eggs were given back + to Leroux, but the story of his adventure became noised abroad, + even beyond the confines of the school, as he was to discover a + few months later. + + "Although Leroux had become the happy possessor of a saloon + pistol, soon after his entrance to the school, he had never + found this a very satisfactory weapon, and had determined to + possess himself of something better as soon as possible. He + practised rifle-shooting regularly at the butts, and in his + third year shot in most of the matches for the school eleven, + always doing very well at the longer ranges at which the boys + were allowed to kneel or lie down, but failing rather at the 200 + yards, at which range in those days even the youngest members of + the rifle-corps were required to shoot standing with heavy + Enfield rifles with a very hard pull. It was this excessively + hard pull, combined with the weight of the long Enfield rifle, + which made it so difficult for a young boy to shoot steadily + standing at the 200 yards' range. During the Easter holidays + before his last term at the great school, Leroux bought with his + savings, augmented by a liberal present from his mother, a good + pea-rifle with a detachable barrel, which could be concealed up + the coat-sleeve of the right arm, whilst the stock was hidden + under the coat on the other side of the body. But Leroux never + used this rifle on private ground unless he was accompanied by a + friend, so that in case of pursuit one boy could run with the + barrel and the other with the stock. There was an old disused + canal not far away from the school, on the property of a local + landowner named Lowden Beigh, which was a favourite resort of + Leroux and his friends on Sunday afternoons between dinner-time + and afternoon chapel. In the still waters of this old canal + bordered with beds of reeds and rushes, and in many places + overspread with waterlilies, pike were always to be found on a + hot summer's day, not exactly basking in the sun, but lying + motionless in the water, not more than a few inches from the + surface, and Leroux had discovered that the concussion caused by + a bullet fired into the water in the immediate vicinity of these + fish, even though it did not touch them, was sufficient to stun + them and cause them to float helpless for a short time belly + upwards on the top of the water, from which they could be + retrieved with a long stick. The pike which were obtained in + this way were, however, be it said, always of small size. This + old canal too swarmed with moorhens which afforded excellent + practice with the little rifle. It was on a hot Sunday afternoon + in late June, that Leroux and a great friend of his, a very tall + boy who had somewhat outgrown his strength, paid what proved to + be their last visit to the canal. As it so happened, where they + first struck the canal they had only seen some very small pike + not worth shooting at and only one shot had been fired at a + moorhen, which had missed its mark. However, there was a better + hunting ground beyond the bridge where the high road crossed the + old canal, and this they proceeded to make for. Before entering + the last field which lay between them and the high road, the + little rifle was taken to pieces, and Leroux then hid the stock + under the left side of his coat, his companion, whose arms were + longer than his, concealing the barrel up his right coat-sleeve. + The two boys then strolled leisurely along the bank of the + canal, towards the gate which opened into the high road just + below the bridge. They were close to this gate, in fact almost + touching it, when a gamekeeper, in velveteen coat and gaiters, + suddenly appeared from behind the hedge on the other side of it + and stood confronting them. + + "'Well, young gents,' he said, 'what have you been doing along + the canal?' + + "'We've been looking for cuckoos' eggs in the reed warblers' + nests,' said Leroux readily, and it was indeed a perfectly true + answer, though it did not cover the whole scope of their + operations. + + "'Well, I must have your names. Mr. Lowden Beigh[3] means to put + a stop to you young gents trespassing on his ground every + Sunday,' said the gamekeeper, pulling out a pocket-book and + pencil to take them down in. Leroux and his friend at once gave + their names, and told the keeper how to spell them, for they + knew that even if they were reported to the headmaster, that + good old sportsman would not be likely to inflict any punishment + on them for merely strolling quietly along the bank of the old + canal on a Sunday afternoon, even though they had been + trespassing on the property of Mr. Lowden Beigh. + + "Having given up their names to the keeper the two boys + proceeded to climb over the gate into the high road, and + considering what they carried hidden under their coats, this was + a somewhat ticklish operation. + + "Leroux was nearest to the keeper, and having his right arm free + probably got over the gate without arousing any suspicion in the + man's mind, but the latter probably noticed the unusual + stiffness of the tall boy's right arm when he was getting over + the gate, though he did not immediately grasp the cause of it. + However, the probable meaning of it must soon have flashed + across his mind, for the boys had not walked twenty yards down + the road when they heard him say, 'Darned if ye ain't got one o' + they little guns with ye.' They heard no more. 'Come on,' said + Leroux, and the two boys dashed off down the road at their best + pace, closely pursued by the keeper, who though middle-aged was + a spare-made, active-looking fellow. It was a very hot day and + the two boys were in their Sunday clothes and wearing top-hats, + and handicapped with the rifle, the barrel of which was rather + heavy. Still at first they gained on the keeper, and at the end + of a quarter of a mile had increased the distance between him + and them to quite fifty yards, when suddenly they came almost + face to face with old 'Froddy,' the great headmaster himself, + who had just emerged from a lane into the high road. With his + head held high in the air and his hat on the back of his head, + he came striding along all alone, at a pace of at least four + miles an hour. His thoughts were evidently far from the earth he + trod, and probably he never saw the boys at all, but they + instantly recognized him. + + "'Old Froddy, by Jove!' ejaculated Leroux; 'come on through the + hedge,' and without an instant's hesitation he dashed at and + broke his way into the field to the right of the road, his + friend scrambling through the gap he had made in the hedge close + behind him. The boys were now in a large grass field across + which they started to run diagonally, the keeper following + doggedly behind them, though when they gained the further corner + of the field he was nearly a hundred yards behind them. As they + climbed the gate into the next field Leroux's tall young friend + was panting painfully, and before they were half-way across it + he said he would not be able to run much further with the + rifle-barrel. There was a large hayrick in the far corner of + this field, so Leroux urged his companion to try and carry the + rifle-barrel as far as there and then throw it down behind the + rick, just as they passed it, and were for the moment hidden + from the keeper. Leroux who was comparatively fresh and whom the + keeper would never have caught, still stuck to the stock of his + rifle, and intended to return for the barrel the next day, which + happened to be one of the three-weekly Monday half-holidays. He + did not think there would be much chance of its discovery before + then. However, as bad luck would have it, and by an + extraordinary chance, the gamekeeper saw it as he passed the + rick. He had probably turned to look behind him, thinking that + possibly the boys had run round the rick, and must have seen the + glint of the sun on the barrel. The boys had not got very far + over the next field before they heard the gamekeeper shouting, + and on turning his head Leroux saw that he was standing near the + gate waving something over his head, which as it glinted and + flashed in the sun he knew was the barrel of his rifle. It was + no good running any further, the keeper had their names and half + the rifle, so they walked back to him and Leroux had to + surrender the other half. + + "Now Leroux had great affection for this, his first rifle, and + hated the idea of having it confiscated, so he tried to make + terms with the keeper, and offered to give him all the money he + could afford, if he would return him the rifle, and be content + to report him and his friend for trespassing. The keeper refused + this bribe with much apparent indignation, saying that no amount + of money that might be offered to him would tempt him to swerve + from his duty, which was to take the rifle straight to his + master, Mr. Lowden Beigh. So the two boys walked slowly and + sadly back to the school, arriving there just in time for the + afternoon service in the chapel, which, however, did nothing to + cheer them. + + "Every day during the following week Leroux expected to be + summoned to the headmaster's study and taxed with trespassing + with a rifle on Mr. Lowden Beigh's land. But at the end of this + time, as nothing happened, he felt convinced that the keeper had + never given up the little rifle to his master at all, but had + kept it himself, in the hope of being able to dispose of it for + more money than had been offered him for its return. At any rate + Leroux determined to write to Mr. Lowden Beigh, tell him exactly + what had happened, and ask him to let him have the rifle back + again at the end of the term. This he did, and the following day + received an answer requesting him to call at the Hall with the + friend who was with him when the rifle was taken, on the + following Sunday afternoon. The two boys complied with this + request and they were very kindly entertained and treated to + wine and cake by Mr. Lowden Beigh. He asked Leroux if it was he + who had taken the herons' eggs at Tombe Abbey, and when he + admitted that it was, said, 'Why, you're the biggest poacher in + the school.' He then told the boys that the keeper had never + said a word to him about the rifle, but that he had demanded it + from him immediately on reading Leroux's letter, and then + dismissed the man from his service. Finally, Mr. Lowden Beigh + told Leroux that if he would again come to the Hall, the day + before the big school broke up at the end of the term, he would + return him his rifle, and this promise he faithfully kept. + + "It was whilst he was at home during the Christmas holidays + immediately preceding the commencement of his second year at the + great Midland school, that John Leroux, then just fifteen years + of age, was an eye-witness of, and indeed, a participant in, the + terrible disaster on the ice in Regent's Park, which took place + on January 15th, 1867. + + "At that time he was living with his parents at no great + distance from the scene of the accident, of which he wrote an + account to a school friend whilst the events related were still + fresh in his memory. + + "As a result of a long-continued frost, the ice on the + ornamental water in the park had become excessively thick, and + during the early part of January, 1867, thousands of people + might have been seen skating there daily. At length, however, a + thaw set in, and as the ice became gradually more rotten in + appearance, the skaters rapidly decreased in numbers. + + "On the day of the accident Leroux went to the park alone after + lunch, and on his arrival at the ornamental water, found that + the ice had been broken all round the shore of the lake by the + men employed by the Royal Humane Society, with the object of + preventing people from getting on to the ice. At the same time + several servants of the Society were doing their best to + persuade the more adventurous spirits who had got on to the ice + by means of planks, to leave it. At that time there were + probably not more than three or four hundred people on the whole + expanse of the ornamental water. At least they appeared to be + very thinly scattered over it, compared with the crowds of a few + days before, when the ice was sound and strong, before the thaw + had set in. + + "Having come to the park to skate, and being perhaps of a + somewhat self-willed and adventurous disposition, Leroux put on + his skates, and watching his opportunity, got on to the ice, + which though quite three inches in thickness, was seamed in + every direction with a multiplicity of cracks, through which the + water constantly welled up and ran over the surface. It was + indeed evident that the solid ice-slab with which the lake had + been originally covered was now formed of innumerable small + pieces, really independent one of another, but still fitting + closely together like the sections of a child's puzzle after + they have been put in their places. Leroux himself never doubted + that it was the breaking of the ice for the space of three or + four feet all round the shores of the lake, which allowed room + for the cracks in the unbroken ice gradually to widen until at + last the whole sheet broke into separate pieces. As the skaters + passed to and fro upon it, the whole surface of the ice-sheet + seemed to rise and sink in response to their passage, and every + moment the gaps gaped wider. + + "It was getting on towards four o'clock in the afternoon, and + Leroux was just then right in the middle of the lake, midway + between the largest island and the bridge leading towards the + Park Road, when he heard a cry behind him, and looking round saw + that the ice was breaking in the direction of the bridge. It was + a sight which he never forgot. Right across the whole breadth of + the lake the sections into which the ice-sheet had been divided + by the cracks were disengaging themselves one from another. The + line of breaking advanced steadily towards where the boy was + standing, each separate section of ice as the pressure was + removed from behind, first breaking loose, and after being + tilted into the air, again falling flat into its place. As no + one fell into the water when the ice first broke up, the + pressure which was the immediate cause of the catastrophe must + have been exerted from a distance, and it was probably the + weight of the people on the ice some way off which caused it to + bulge where it first broke to such an extent as to detach some + of the smaller sections which were already really separated one + from another by the ever-widening cracks. + + "There was a regular panic amongst the comparatively small + number of people between Leroux and the point near the bridge + where the ice first commenced to break up, and they all went + flying along as fast as their skates would carry them, straight + down the centre of the lake towards the narrow channel between + the two islands in front of them. At the same time there was a + stampede for the shore from every part of the lake, and as the + great bulk of the people then on the ice were near the edge when + it so suddenly commenced to break up, most of them either got to + land without assistance, or being caught in the breaking ice + when within a rope's throw of the shore, were subsequently + rescued; but every one who got into the water amongst the thick + heavy ice-slabs at any distance from the shore was drowned, and + most of these unfortunate people disappeared immediately beneath + the heavy slabs of ice, between which they fell into the water, + and which closed over them at once. + + "When the ice first began to break up, Leroux could not help + standing still for a few moments, and watching the rapidly + advancing line of breakage, and then when he turned to run for + it or rather skate for it, he was quite alone, and at some + little distance behind the crowd of people who had first taken + the alarm. Suddenly there was a wild, despairing cry ahead, and + Leroux saw that the ice was breaking up in the narrow channel + between the two islands. At this juncture many people + undoubtedly lost their heads as they skated right into the + broken ice and almost all of them at once disappeared. It was + between the two islands that the greatest loss of life occurred, + as of the forty-nine bodies subsequently recovered in different + parts of the lake, twenty-four were found in close proximity to + one another at this spot, and yet there was scarcely a head to + be seen at the time of the accident above the broken ice, as the + weight of the heavy slabs forced those who fell in between them + under water almost immediately. Although he was only a boy of + fifteen at this time, he had never missed a chance of falling + through weak or rotten ice every winter since he first went to + school, and these various experiences had no doubt given him a + good deal of self-confidence. At any rate he felt neither + frightened nor flurried by the somewhat alarming circumstances + of the position in which he now found himself, but quickly made + up his mind as to the best course to adopt to save his life. As + the ice had already broken up both before and behind him, but + was still solid immediately behind him he stopped short where he + was, and lay down at full length on the longest piece of ice he + could see which was free from widely open cracks. He had + scarcely done so, when the wave of breakage which had commenced + near the bridge passed him, all the great cracks with which the + ice-sheet was seamed opening to such an extent that every + separate slab became detached. Many of these slabs were first + tilted a little into the air, as had happened when the ice first + broke up near the bridge, but they immediately fell flat again + into their places, so that the whole of the ice-sheet in the + central part of the ornamental water seemed to be in one piece, + though in reality the cracks which divided it into innumerable + small slabs were now so wide that each piece was independent the + one of the other, and most of them would not have been large + enough to support the weight of a man standing near their edge, + without heeling over and precipitating him into the water. + + "Fortunately for Leroux the ice had not been broken round the + edge of the largest island in the lake to his left, and although + the cracks had opened all round where he lay, as the wave of + breakage passed, to such an extent as to have made it impossible + to have walked or skated across the disintegrated slabs, without + tilting one or other of them, and so falling into the water, yet + he was only a short distance from the unbroken ice-sheet which + rested on the island. The slab on which he was lying was quite + large enough to bear his weight easily, and as he was out of all + danger for the time being, he was able to look around and note + what was going on. Directly the ice broke up there was, of + course, tremendous excitement on the shore of the lake nearest + the Zoological Gardens, where great crowds of people had been + congregated the whole afternoon. Many gallant and successful + attempts were made to rescue those who were fighting for life + amongst the ice-slabs; but Leroux's impression was that no one + was saved who had got into the water at any considerable + distance from the shore. At the spot where the largest number of + people were drowned, almost everyone who fell into the water + disappeared immediately. Still here and there men kept their + heads above water for a long time, and all these poor fellows + might have been rescued, had it not been for the breaking of a + rope. It was soon realized that it would be quite impossible to + save the people who were so far out amongst the ice that a rope + could not be thrown to them from the shore except by some + special means, and someone hit upon the idea of dragging a boat + to them over the ice. Leroux saw the boat pulled up over the + still unbroken ice beyond the bridge, and long ropes were then + made fast to its bow and carried over the bridge to each side of + the lake, where willing hands enough were ready to work them. + Had the ropes only held, the boat might have been pulled from + one side or the other of the lake to all those who were in the + water amongst the ice-slabs at a distance from the shore; but + unfortunately before the boat had been pulled far beyond the + bridge one of the ropes broke, and as it was then apparently + recognized that they were not strong enough to stand the strain + required, the experiment was not tried again. There were only + two men in the water anywhere near Leroux, and they were about + half-way between where he lay and the shore of the lake. He had + seen them at first trying to force their way through the ice, + but the slabs were so thick and heavy that they threatened at + every moment to turn over on them, and they soon became + exhausted and remained quiet. At last one of them disappeared + and not long afterwards only a hat on the ice remained to mark + the spot where his companion in misfortune had also sunk. Leroux + soon realized that there was no hope of rescue from the shore, + and indeed amidst all the excitement of saving or attempting to + save the lives of those who had got into the water within reach + he had probably been overlooked or possibly his position had + been considered hopeless. + + "At length when the light was commencing to fade Leroux made up + his mind to try and reach the island on his left by crawling + from one slab of ice to another. He fully realized that if he + once got into the water he would never get out, but not being + very heavy in those days, and by moving only very slowly and + cautiously, and carefully selecting his route he succeeded at + last in reaching the unbroken ice near the island. He had one + very narrow escape, as a table of ice very nearly turned over on + him before he had got sufficiently far on it to keep it flat. + Luckily there was a much larger slab just beyond it, on to which + he crawled without much difficulty. After crossing the island he + again got on to unbroken ice and skated across it, to the shore + near the lower bridge. + + "By that time it was rapidly growing dusk, everybody whom it had + been possible to reach with a rope from the shore had been + rescued, and all the rest were still and cold beneath the ice. + But although Leroux knew that a considerable number of people + must have been drowned, until he saw the long list of those who + had lost their lives in the next morning's 'Times' he had no + idea that the disaster was so serious as it really was." + +The following reminiscences of Selous as a schoolboy at Rugby were +contributed to the 'Meteor,' the Rugby school paper (February 7th, +1917), by Canon Wilson, D.D.:-- + + "I first heard of Selous some time in 1863, soon after I became + a house-master. The master of his preparatory school at + Tottenham told me that a Mr. Slous--for so the name was then + spelt--was going to enter his son at my house. 'Take my advice,' + was the gist of the letter, 'and say your house is full; the boy + will plague the life out of you.' I wrote to enquire the nature + of the plague. 'He breaks every rule; he lets himself down out + of a dormitory window to go birds'-nesting; he is constantly + complained of by neighbours for trespassing; he fastened up an + assistant master in a cowshed into which he had chased the young + villain early one summer morning; somehow the youngster + scrambled out, and fastened the door on the outside, so that the + master missed morning school.' + + "Such were his crimes; so, of course, I wrote back and said that + he was the boy for me. + + "His father brought him down from town, a bright-eyed, + fair-haired boy of twelve or thirteen, who had no suspicion that + I knew all about his iniquities. When his father departed, I had + a little of the usual talk with a new boy, about work and games + and so on; and then I asked him what he meant to be. 'I mean to + be like Livingstone,' he replied. I had seen Livingstone when he + came to Cambridge, in 1857, I think, and spoke in the Senate + House, appealing for a Universities Mission to Central Africa; + so we talked Livingstone and Africa, and Natural History. I soon + saw that he had the fire and the modesty of genius and was a + delightful creature. + + "He was quite exemplary as a young member of the House and + School, so far as I knew. He was 'late' for chapel sometimes in + long summer afternoons; how much late I did not inquire. I + guessed what he was about and he did his lines like a man. + + "He was extraordinarily acute in all his senses--sight, hearing, + smell, taste. He asked me, for example, one day to some brook a + few miles away to watch kingfishers. We crawled up warily when + we got near the spot. He could see exactly what they were + catching and carrying, from a distance at which I could only see + a bird flying. His power of hearing was also more than acute. + One day at our table in hall I told a lady who sat next me that + a nightingale had been heard singing in somebody's spinney. We + decided to drive down to it after dinner, and on reaching the + spot, we found Selous already there, roaming about in the + spinney. I called to him, and he came to the edge of the wood. + 'What are you doing there?' 'Looking for a nightingale's nest, + sir.' 'But why here?' 'I heard you say at dinner that one was + singing here.' Now he was sixteen or eighteen feet away, at a + different table, and we were fifty in hall, talking and + clattering with knives and forks. And yet he heard me + distinctly. He could disentangle the voices, and listen to one, + as a dog can follow one scent among many. Then as to smell and + taste. He told me that when he shot a new bird with his + 'tweaker'--you will learn presently what the 'tweaker' was in + his case--he always _tasted_ its flesh. + + "He was extremely accurate in his observation, and in his + estimates of distance, size, number, etc.; in fact, he was the + most truthful observer I can imagine; free from all exaggeration + and egotism, and he retained this simplicity and accuracy and + modesty all his life. He was a beautiful runner, a + football-player with singular dash and a first-rate swimmer; but + he left Rugby at seventeen, I think, so that he did not win any + great athletic distinctions at school. + + "But I must tell you some stories about him. + + "On some great public occasion of rejoicing the streets of Rugby + were decorated with flags. When my man called me at 7.0 a.m., he + said, 'I think I ought to tell you, sir, that there is a + broomstick and duster showing in every chimney in the house.' + 'Very well,' I replied, 'go and tell Mr. Selous that they must + be taken down by 12 o'clock.' He had let himself down at night + out of the dormitory window that looks into the study quadrangle + and had collected brooms and dusters from the studies. He had + somehow clambered up waterpipes and gutters and roofs, + broomsticks and all; and when I went out people in the road were + admiring our extemporized decorations--duster flags and + broom-handles sticking out of the chimney pots at all angles. + There was another flag, of the same nature, perilously near the + top of the taller of two poplars that stood close to the boys' + entrance. They were all taken down by dinner-time; I never + enquired how, or by whom. + + "There used to be a vine, trained up the south face of the + house, and one year, I think in 1868, it bore an extraordinary + crop of grapes which ripened beautifully. One day at dinner I + told the head of the dormitory on the second floor, over the + drawing-room, that they might gather all that they could reach + from the window. _I forgot Selous_ as this was not his bedroom, + but the dormitory did not forget him. An aunt of mine was + sleeping in the bedroom below, and she remarked next morning at + breakfast that she heard, or thought she heard, voices at night + quite close to her windows. Had anything happened? I went out + into the garden to look, the vine was stripped more than + half-way down the windows of the first floor. It was Selous, of + course; they let him down somehow. I was told that he filled a + pillow-case with grape-bunches, and feasted the House. Mr. C. K. + Francis, the well-known Metropolitan Police Magistrate, his + contemporary in my house, has told this story of Selous to the + readers of the 'Daily Telegraph' (January 15th), and says that + they let Selous down in a blanket. + + "Of course Selous was an active member of the School Natural + History Society. I must tell you about a meeting of that + Society. Dr. Walter Flight, who was in charge of the minerals of + the British Museum, was staying with me, and I asked him whether + he would like to come as a visitor to an ordinary meeting of our + Society. I knew it would be an interesting one. Selous had + shortly before raided the heronry on the island at Coombe Abbey. + He swam the pond from the end distant from the house, climbed + several trees, took one egg from each nest, swam back and was + chased, but escaped by sheer speed. Lord Craven complained to + the H.M. The H.M. warned our Society pretty plainly, and our + committee censured Selous. At the meeting we were going to + attend, Selous, as was widely known, was going to make his + defence. The room, the old Fifth Form Room, next to the School + House Dining Hall, was crowded. Flight and I squeezed in. 'Are + your meetings always like this?' he asked. 'You will see,' I + replied, 'that the school takes a great interest in natural + history.' 'I am very glad to see this,' he said. + + "Exhibits were made, a paper read, and then began the real + business of the evening--the official condemnation by our + president, Mr. Kitchener, and Selous' spirited defence. + + "Selous presented the eggs to the Natural History Society, and + they were safe in the collection twenty years ago, I am told. I + hope they are there still. + + "He also climbed the great elm trees, which then stood in the + close, for rooks' eggs. This feat was also performed at night, + and the cawing of the rooks roused Dr. Temple, but Selous was + not detected in the darkness. + + "Selous' special contribution to our Society was on birds. If I + remember right his first list of birds noted at Rugby exceeded + ninety. I will tell the story how one very rare bird was added + to our list. It was in the very hard winter of 1867; snow was + lying on the ground. In the evening, some hours after lock-up a + ring at the front door came at the moment I was going to my + study, the door of which is close to the front door. I opened + the front door and there stood Selous, with a bird dangling from + his hand. I don't know which of us was most surprised. 'Come in + to the study; what have you got there?' 'Oh, sir, it's + Williamson's duck; it's very rare.' (I invent the name + Williamson, I know it was somebody's duck.) 'Go and fetch the + bird-book from the House Library.' (I had put an excellent + bird-book in several volumes into the Library for his use.) + 'Leave the bird.' I examined the bird, neatly shot through the + neck. He was quite right, a note in the book said that it had + been occasionally seen at certain places on the East coast; only + once, I think, inland as far as Northamptonshire. 'How did you + get it?' 'I saw it at Swift's and followed it to Lilbourne and + got it there.' 'How?' 'With my tweaker,' was the reply. 'It must + be a very powerful tweaker?' I said. 'Yes, sir, it's a very + strong one; I thought you would not mind my being late for once, + as it's very rare.' + + "Some six years later, when he came back from a four years' + solitary travel and exploration in what is now called Rhodesia, + or even further inland, this incident of the tweaker turned up. + 'I did wonder,' he said, 'whether you were such an innocent as + really to believe it was a tweaker.' 'My dear Selous,' I said, + 'I knew the bird was shot, and I knew you had a gun, and the + farmhouse where you kept it, but you kept it so dark and made + such excellent use of it that I said nothing about it.' + + "One of the most difficult problems presented to all who are in + authority is: how much ought I _not_ to know and see?" + + "I think it was on this occasion that he came down to a + house-supper. He had told me lots of stories about his + adventures in Africa during those four years. They are told in + his books, every one of which is, I hope, in the School Library + and well read. I asked him to tell some of them to the house. No + he would not; so finally at the supper, I said that if he would + not, I would, and I began with the story of his going to ask + Lobengula, King of the Matabele, for leave to shoot elephants. + 'You are only a boy,' the King said. 'You must shoot birds. The + first elephant you hunt will kill you.' Selous jumped up. 'Oh, + sir, let me tell it,' and we had a never-to-be-forgotten + evening. + + "But it is time to stop. One of his friends, Sir Ralph Williams, + well said of him in a letter in 'The Times,' of January 10th, + 'The name of Fred Selous stands for all that is straightest and + best in South African story,' and I will venture to say that it + stands for the same in Rugby annals. + + "J. M. WILSON. + "Worcester, 22 _January_, 1917." + +In August, 1868, at the age of seventeen, Selous left Rugby and went to +Neuchatel, in Switzerland, where he lived at the "Institution Roulet." +He spent his time learning French and the violin and commenced his +studies to be a doctor, for which profession he evinced no enthusiasm. +Writing to his mother in November, he says:-- + + "As for my future medical examinations I don't know how I shall + come off; I do not want particularly to be a doctor, but I shall + go in for that as I can't see anything else that I should like + better, except sheep-farming or something of that sort in one of + the colonies, but I suppose I must give up that idea; however, + if I become a surgeon I do not intend to try and get a practice + in England, but I should try and get a post as ship's surgeon, + or army surgeon in India, if I could get any leave of absence + which would give me a little time to myself, but anyhow I am + certain I shall never be able to settle down quietly in England. + You talked about me being at an age of irresponsibility, but I + don't see that I am, as supposing I don't manage to learn these + infernal languages (why was anyone fool enough to build the + tower of Babel?) everyone will be disgusted with me." + +In December there was more talk of his going to Dresden to learn German, +but he himself voted for Wiesbaden as being more of a country district +where he would have more opportunities for shooting and fishing. After a +short visit home his father took him to Wiesbaden in the spring of 1869, +when he wrote to his sister "Locky":-- + + "Many thanks for your spiritual letter which almost tempts me to + commit suicide; if I can't get good shooting and fishing in this + world I'll have it in the next, if what the Chinaman says is + true; but by hook or by crook I will have some in this world + too, and make some rare natural history collections into the + bargain. But first I must make a little money, but how? not by + scribbling away on a three-legged stool in a dingy office in + London. I am becoming more and more convinced every day that I + should never be able to stand that and everybody I know or have + ever had anything to do with says the same thing. I have a great + many qualifications for getting on in one of our colonies, viz. + perseverance, energy, and a wonderfully good constitution. What + makes me recur to the old subject is this: I have made the + acquaintance of a family here of the name of K----. I always + forget their name although I know them intimately. This + gentleman, a German from Brunswick, has been twenty years in + Natal (where he made his fortune) and since then eight years in + England, and now has become regularly English (speaking English, + indeed, without the slightest accent). His wife is an + Englishwoman who was born in the Cape Colony, but has always + lived with him in Natal; and then he has a very large family. + These people give the most splendid accounts of Natal. Firstly, + they say that the climate is superb, there being no winter and + it not being so hot in summer as in Germany. Then they say that + the country is lovely beyond description. They do not praise + Cape Colony, only Natal, which they describe as a perfect + paradise. They say, too, that Natal itself is a wonderfully gay + place and that the society there is very good. The wife says she + can't stand Europe at all, the climate is so detestable + compared with that of Natal. She says that she often used to go + for weeks and weeks up country with her husband and children on + shooting excursions, sleeping out in tents all the time, and + that taking into consideration the beautiful climate and country + there is no enjoyment equal to it, and I am fully of her + opinion. They travelled once three days with Dr. Livingstone, + but you will hear all about it from them when you come over + here." + +He arrived at Wiesbaden in September and took up his residence with Herr +Knoch, who lived in the Roderallee. In December he met the Colchester +family, with whom he became great friends. + +At this time he enjoyed the music every afternoon at the Kursaal, and +was amused in the evening to see the gambling that went on. One night a +Russian lost 100,000 francs. "What an April fool!" is Selous' only +comment. He had at this time a nice dog named Bell, to whom he was much +attached. He is always writing for trout-flies, or books on sport or +natural history. "I wouldn't care to go to Rome and see the Holy Week, +but I should like to go to Russia, Sweden, or some other country where +some shooting or fishing is to be had, but I must be patient and make +some money, though I don't know how. Yesterday I went down to the Rhine, +after my German and music lessons, but only brought back three small +fish. A few days ago an officer was shot dead in a duel at Mayence. +Verdict, 'Serve him right.'" + +Miss Colchester thus recalls certain incidents of Selous' life at +Wiesbaden. "As showing his sporting nature, I may mention that he swam +the Rhine near Biebrich to retrieve a wild duck he had shot for us. It +was blocked with ice at the time, but that did not daunt him. One day we +were all skating on the frozen waters of the Kursaal Gardens when the +ice suddenly broke up and I was thrown into the deep water. Without a +moment's hesitation Fred jumped in and supported me under the arms until +help came. He was a dear boy and we all loved him." + +Selous set himself to learn the language as thoroughly as he could in +the time at his disposal, but the cold study of German verbs was hard +for a boy of seventeen with the spring in his bones and the sun glinting +on the forest oaks. + +When summer came young Selous spent all his spare time chiefly with his +friend Colchester, roving the woods and opens in search of birds'-nests +and butterflies. The woods in the neighbourhood of Wiesbaden were, as is +usual in Germany, strictly preserved and, therefore, being forbidden +ground, offered an especial attraction to the young naturalist. On two +of these forays he had been stopped and warned by a forester named +Keppel, who though an oldish man was immensely active and powerful. From +him Selous had several narrow escapes, but the day of reckoning was at +hand. In the heart of the forest Selous had one day observed a pair of +honey-buzzards, which being frequently seen afterwards about the same +spot, he concluded must have a nest somewhere. These birds are somewhat +uncommon even in Germany, and Selous naturally longed to find the nest +and take the eggs. At last one day he and Colchester found the nest on +the top of a high fir tree, but on climbing up to it Selous observed +that there were no eggs. A few days later the two marauders set off at +dawn and again approached the nest, Colchester being left at the foot of +the tree to keep watch. Selous was in the act of descending the tree +when Keppel suddenly appeared and by his words and actions showed that +he was in a furious rage. + +"Now I shall take you to prison," he roared, as he seized hold of the +coat in which Selous had hidden the two eggs he had taken. + +By this time, however, the fighting spirit was aroused on both sides, +for Selous had no intention either of being captured or resigning his +treasures quietly. A fierce struggle ensued in which the coat was torn +in half, when at last Selous, losing his temper, gave the old forester a +right-hander on the jaw which dropped him like a felled ox. + +The boys were now alarmed and for a moment Selous thought he must have +killed the man, but as he showed signs of recovering they took to their +heels and ran home with all possible speed. Since complications were +bound to follow Selous at once consulted a lawyer, who advised him to +pack up his traps and leave Prussia. Accordingly he took the train and +went to Salzburg in Austria, where he knew he would be beyond the power +of German courts. Selous' chief sorrow over the unfortunate affair seems +to be that he lost his rare eggs. + +Soon after he arrived at Salzburg Selous heard that his friend, Charley +Colchester, who had escaped to Kronberg, but was followed and arrested, +had been condemned to a week's imprisonment (without the option of a +fine) for taking eggs on two occasions. + + "If I had been caught," writes Selous, "I should have got two or + three months instead of a week's imprisonment, for both the + lawyer and the Burgomaster to whom I spoke, said that the taking + of eggs was but a small matter in the eyes of Prussian law + compared with resisting an official." + +The Austrian with whom he lived at Salzburg seems to have been a +pleasant fellow named Rochhart, who had travelled much in Greece and +America. Selous seems to have liked the genial Austrians far better than +the Prussians and especially enjoyed the Tyrolese music and the +butterfly hunting in the woods when the weather was fine. Writing to his +mother (July 5th, 1870), he speaks of his enthusiasm as a collector:-- + + "Why I feel the absence of the sun so very acutely is because, + when the sun is not shining no butterflies, or none worth + having, are to be got. Now this is just the time for the Purple + Emperors, some specimens of which I want very much to get, and + so I have been exceedingly provoked. I found out the place where + the P.E.'s were to be found and for the last seven days I have + been every day to that place (which is from five to six miles + from Salzburg) and there I have waited from twelve to three, + through rain and everything else, hoping and hoping for a + passing sunbeam, as I could see them every now and then at the + tops of the trees, and if the sun had but come out for a few + minutes some of them would have been sure to have come down and + settled in the road. Well, during all the hours of watching in + those seven days the sun never, never, never broke through the + clouds for one instant, and each day I returned home more + disappointed and more indignant against providence than the day + before. I think that if this sort of thing had continued for + another week I should have gone into a chronic state of + melancholy and moroseness for the rest of my life, and people + would have said, 'Ah, he must have had some great disappointment + in early life.' These are the sort of things that rile me more + than anything else, for you can't think how I put my whole soul + into egg and butterfly collecting when I'm at it, and how I boil + up and over with impotent rage at not being able to attain the + object of my desires on account of the weather over which I have + no control. However, perseverance can struggle against anything. + This afternoon the sun shone out and I immediately caught two + Purple Emperors (_Apatura Iris_), and two very similar + butterflies unknown in England (_Apatura Ilia_), also a great + many White Admirals (_Limenitis Camilla_), not quite the same as + the English White Admiral (_Limenitis Sybilla_), but very like; + all butterflies well worth having. If the weather will but + continue fine for a few days I will soon make some good + additions to my collection, but it is hopeless work collecting + butterflies in bad weather. I think I must be set down as a + harmless lunatic by the peasants in the neighbourhood already." + +Selous was not long at Salzburg before he found an old chamois hunter +and poacher, with whom he made frequent excursions into the neighbouring +mountains. On one of these trips he killed two chamois, and the head of +one of these is still in the museum at Worplesdon. + +The Franco-German war now began and Selous was greatly incensed that the +general feeling in England was in favour of Prussia. + + "Vive la France, a bas la Prusse," he writes to his mother (July + 22nd, 1870), "your saying the war is 'likely to become a bloody + butchery through all the Christian nations of civilized Europe,' + is rather a startler. Since this morning I have read all the + Cologne and Vienna papers for the last week and you are most + certainly several miles ahead of the most far-seeing and + sanguinary politician, in either Austria or Prussia. You say that + Bavaria has joined Prussia and Austria is likely to do so too. + Bavaria cannot help itself or would not have joined Prussia. The + Crown Prince of Prussia is in Munich with 15,000 Prussian troops, + and the Bavarians are forced by treaty to aid Prussia or they + would not do so. Prussia is the only power that is likely to take + any part in the war at present. Austria most certainly will not + interfere unless she is forced into it. And England and America + are less likely still to do so. The post now goes to England by + Trieste, by sea, of course, and supposing the war does become a + bloody butchery through all the Christian nations of civilized + Europe, an Italian passenger steamer would surely not be meddled + with. Whatever happens, the war cannot come here, for there is + nothing to be fought for in the Tyrol and no room to fight for it + in the mountain valleys if there was. So that the route to + Trieste and from thence to England will always be open. The + people say that in 1866, when the war between Austria and Prussia + was going on, they never knew anything about it here. As for the + money, you can easily send a letter of credit to a bank in + Salzburg or Munich and that difficulty would be got over. For + several months at least it is not at all likely that any other + nation will join either party, England least of all; and + supposing that England were drawn into it eventually, you would + surely be able to tell long before war was declared if such was + likely to be the case, and send me word, for the postal + communications will not be stopped until then via Trieste. It + seems to me most ridiculous to predict so much when so little is + known. Unless you really think in your heart of hearts that it is + necessary for me to come, please let me remain here a few months + longer; England taking part in the war is the only thing that can + stop either letters or myself from reaching you, and surely you + cannot tell me in cold blood that England is likely to be drawn + into the war for months and months to come, at least all the + Prussian papers declare most positively that it is not likely + that either America or England will take any part in the war, + and surely they as a party most intensely interested would say + something about it if they thought that there was the slightest + chance of England assisting. Gladstone, you know, will do his + utmost to keep England neutral. Austria was almost ruined by the + last war, but is now rapidly increasing in wealth and if drawn + into the war would be utterly ruined, so that she will do her + utmost to keep out of it. Why I so particularly wish to remain + here a few months longer is because if I return to England all + the money and time that has been wasted in zither at any rate, if + not violin lessons, will have been utterly thrown away and I + shall lose a pleasure and a pastime that would have lasted me my + whole life. In three or four months more, as I am working very + hard at it, I shall know enough of the zither to do without a + master. The violin is all very well, but it is not an instrument + that one derives much pleasure from playing unaccompanied, unless + one plays extremely well, whereas the zither, like the piano, + needs no accompaniment. The zither I have now is not the little + one you saw at Wiesbaden, but an Austrian zither which is much + larger and tuned lower, and altogether a finer instrument." + +He seems to have formed a very accurate estimate of the German character +in war. Writing to his mother, October 20th, 1870, he says:-- + + "I have seen and spoken to several Bavarian soldiers in a + village just beyond the Bavarian frontier, who were at Woerth and + Sedan, and who have been sent back on the sick list; they say + there is a great deal of sickness among the German troops, out + of the 1000 men from the two villages of Schellenberg and + Berchtesgaden who were all in the actions at Woerth and Sedan, + not a single one has as yet been killed, so I was told, though a + great many have been wounded. I see a great deal said in the + English papers about the 'Francs tireurs' being little better + than murderers. I think that the French ought to consider all + the soldiers composing the German armies as so many burglars, + and shoot them down like rabbits in every possible manner; and, + moreover, as the Germans are murdering the peasants, men, + women, and children, for such offences as being in possession + of an old sword, in every direction, I think the French would be + perfectly justified in shooting every German soldier they take + prisoner. After the affair at Bazeilles, I don't believe any + more in the humanity of the Germans." + +At this time Selous met an old Hungarian gentleman, who had large farms +in Hungary, and offered to take him for two years to learn the business. +But his father threw cold water on this project and told his son to +remain at Salzburg until he had completed his German education. +Accordingly he continued to reside there until June, 1871, when he went +on a short visit to Vienna, of which he writes (June 17th, 1871):- + + "I think I have seen everything that is to be seen in Vienna. + The crown jewels, which I daresay you have seen, were very + interesting and very magnificent. The Emperor's stables, too, I + thought very interesting; he has an immense number of horses, + some of them very beautiful indeed. We found an English groom + there who had almost forgotten his own language; he had been + away from England nine years, and so it is not to be wondered + at, as I daresay he rarely speaks anything but German and never + reads anything at all. The theatre in Vienna (I mean the new + opera house) is most magnificent. It was only completed in 1868, + so I don't suppose you have ever seen it. I believe it is + acknowledged to be at present the finest theatre in the world. + It is an immense size, almost as large as Covent Garden, and the + decorations inside and out, and the galleries and everything + appertaining to it are most beautiful and tasteful. We saw + 'Martha,' 'Tannhaeuser,' and 'Faust' there, and a little sort of + pantomime entitled 'Flick and Flock.' I liked 'Martha' very + much. They have a splendid tenor named Walter, who took the part + of Lionel. I daresay you will hear him in London some day. I + didn't like 'Tannhaeuser' very much; I couldn't understand the + story at all and there were no pretty airs in it. 'Faust' was + splendid, Marguerite and Faust were, I should think, as near + perfection as possible, and Mephistopheles was very good, though + at first he gave me the impression of looking more like a clown + than the devil. The scenery in all these pieces was splendid. + 'Flick and Flock' was exactly like an English pantomime with + dumb show. The scenery was really wonderful; there were about + half a dozen transformation scenes, none of which would have + disgraced a London stage on Boxing Night." + +In August he arrived home in England, and during the next three months +he attended classes at the University College Hospital (London) to gain +some knowledge of medical science preparatory to going to Africa. + +[Illustration: THE PLAINS OF THE ORANGE FREE STATE IN 1871.] + +FOOTNOTE: + +[3] Mr. Boughton Leigh. + + + + +CHAPTER III +1871-1875 + + +There are few of us whose early aspirations and subsequent acts are not +influenced by literature. Some book comes just at the time of our life +when we are most impressionable and seems exactly to fit in with our +ideas and temperament. To this rule Selous was no exception, for he +often admitted in after-life that the one book which definitely sent him +to Africa and made him a pioneer and a hunter of Big Game, was Baldwin's +"African Hunting from Natal to the Zambesi," published in 1864. Example +in any line of adventure is recurrent, and especially so if the field of +adventure is not spoilt by what we may call excessive "civilization." +There have been, as it were, landmarks in the literature of African +sport and travel, each book being more or less cumulative in its effect. +Amongst books that mattered, perhaps the first was Burchell's +fully-illustrated folio and the lesser writings of an English officer +who hunted in the Orange Free State late in the eighteenth and early in +the nineteenth century. The works of these men incited Captain +Cornwallis Harris to undertake an extensive trip as far as the Limpopo. +He was a capable artist and an excellent writer, and published a +magnificent folio describing his adventures and the natural history of +the large mammals, which still commands a high price. He at once +inspired many hunters to follow in his footsteps, and several of these, +such as Roualeyn Gordon Cumming, William Cotton Oswell, Sir Francis +Galton, and C. J. Anderson, wrote either books of great value or +portions of standard works. Gordon Cumming did an immense amount of +shooting--far too much most people now think--but his volume, written in +the romantic British style, is one that will always remain a classic in +the world of sporting literature. His tales of the game he saw or what +he killed were not always accepted as true facts, but from all accounts, +gathered from independent sources, it is now admitted that Gordon +Cumming was a fearless hunter and did in the main accomplish all the +principal exploits to which he laid claim. + +"Lake Ngami, or Explorations in South-Western Africa," by Charles John +Anderson, published in 1856, with some admirable early illustrations by +Wolf, gives an account of the author's four years' wanderings (partly +with Francis Galton) in the Western Wilderness, and is a truthful and +excellent record of the Great Game in these districts at that time. +Galton also published "Tropical Africa," but did not give much space to +sport or natural history. Oswell, a great hunter and companion of +Livingstone in many of his travels, also wrote in the last days of his +life an admirable contribution to the "Badminton Library," which +embodied an account of his life and adventures amongst the Great Game of +South Africa in the forties. It is well illustrated by Wolf, the +greatest painter of birds and mammals who ever lived. Other men of his +date who were excellent hunters, who left no records of their lives, +were Vardon, General Sir Thomas Steele, and Thomas Baines, who, without +prejudice, did perhaps as much exploration, geographical work, painting, +and hunting as any Afrikander of his time. Baines, I believe, really +discovered the Falls of the Zambesi before Livingstone visited them, and +no adequate tribute to the work of this remarkable man has ever +appeared. The amount of maps he prepared of out-of-the-way corners of +South Africa from the Zambesi northwards, was very great and his work +was only known to the pioneers like Livingstone, Oswell, Selous and +others who followed after him and made use of his industry. Baines, too, +though almost uneducated, was a very capable artist and I think I must +have seen at least two hundred of his paintings in oil. He liked to +depict landscapes and wild animals. Whilst those of the latter were not +above criticism, his views of the rivers, lakes, forests, mountains, and +plains of the Free State, swarming with game, are a truthful record of +the days that are no more, and will doubtless live in South African +history when more ambitious, technically correct works are forgotten.[4] + +After these sportsmen and writers came William Charles Baldwin, who +wandered, primarily with the object of hunting elephants, from Zululand +to the Zambesi and west to Lake Ngami between the years 1852 and 1860. +His book "African Hunting and Adventure" was published in 1863, and was +beautifully illustrated by Wolf and Zwecker. It was an immediate success +and caused many, like Selous, to leave the ways of civilization and seek +adventure in the wilds. Baldwin was an excellent and fearless rider (he +rode in a steeplechase when he was seventy) and a good shot, and the +accounts of his adventures could hardly have failed to make their +impress on the minds of young men of the right kind, but, as he admits, +the elephants were on the wane even in his day (he never succeeded in +hunting in the main haunts in Matabeleland), so future travellers had to +exploit new fields. + +On the 4th of September, 1871, Selous landed at Algoa Bay with L400 in +his pocket. He went there determined to make his way into the interior +and to lead the free life of the hunter as described by Gordon Cumming, +Baldwin, and others. First he decided to go to the Diamond Fields, and +left Port Elizabeth on September 6th with a young transport rider named +Reuben Thomas, who conveyed him and his baggage for the sum of eight +pounds. After a slow journey of nearly two months he reached his +destination. On the road by hunting hard he had managed to kill "one +bushbuck ram, one duiker, one springbuck, one klipspringer, and eight +grey and red roebucks, all of which I carried on my own shoulders to the +waggons." + +Most unfortunately, however, a valuable double breechloading rifle with +which he had been shooting was stolen on the day he reached Kimberley. +Next day he bought a horse and rode over to Pniel. There he met Mr. +Arthur Lang, and on October 31st went with him on a trading trip through +Griqualand, passing down the Vaal and Orange rivers. He found the +Bechuanas an industrious race, "but they are the stingiest, most +begging, grasping, and disagreeable set of people that it is possible to +imagine." He was much disappointed to find the country so bare of game. +"The great drawback was that there was no game whatever, not even +springbucks, the Kafirs having hunted everything into the far interior, +so that now there is more game within five miles of Cape Town than here, +where we were more than 600 miles up country." The party returned to the +Diamond Fields at the end of March and sold off their produce--cattle, +goats, and ostrich feathers at a profit of about L100. + +Selous then set about his preparations for a journey into the far +interior. From a trader he purchased a waggon, a span of young oxen, and +five horses. A young fellow named Dorehill and a Mr. Sadlier then agreed +to accompany him. The whole party seems to have been very badly armed +with indifferent weapons. At the end of April, 1872, Selous and his two +friends trekked north and only got as far as Kuruman, a delay of a +fortnight being caused through the horses running away. Here Selous met +Mr. William Williams, an experienced trader and hunter, from whom he +purchased two unprepossessing-looking large-bore elephant guns as used +by the Boer native hunters. Cheap as these guns were, about six pounds +a-piece and using only common trade gunpowder, they were most effective +weapons, for in three seasons with them (1872-1874) Selous killed +seventy-eight elephants, all but one of which he shot whilst hunting on +foot. He used to load them whilst running at full speed by simply diving +his hand into a leather bag of powder slung at his side. "They kicked +most frightfully, and in my case the punishment I received from these +guns has affected my nerves to such an extent as to have materially +influenced my shooting ever since, and I am heartily sorry I ever had +anything to do with them." + +After a trying trek the party arrived at Secheli's in twenty days +through more or less waterless country, but just before reaching these +kraals an accident happened which might easily have cost Selous and +Dorehill their lives. Selous was taking some cartridges from a box on +the side of the waggon, in which was about a pound of loose gunpowder, +when Dorehill came up and dropped some ashes from his pipe into the box. +An immediate explosion followed and both were badly burnt. Sadlier, +however, rose to the emergency and "at once rubbed a mixture of oil and +salt into our skinless faces; it was not a pleasant process." After a +visit to Secheli, who was a most completely civilized Kafir, Selous and +his friends moved northward on the 28th June, with Frank Mandy, who was +about to trade in the Matabele country. On the road to Boatlanarma they +experienced great difficulties and were once three days and three nights +without water. About the middle of August they left Bamangwato, where +Selous purchased a salted horse. By exchanging his new waggon for a +smaller second-hand one, a trade rifle and the horse itself valued at +L75, he made a deal with a shrewd but uneducated Scotchman named Peter +Skinner. Of course the new purchase ran away at the first opportunity, +which delayed the party for another week. Near Pelatsi Selous had his +first experience of real African hardship, and his subsequent account of +being lost in the bush for four days and three nights, without covering +except his shirt and breeches and without food or drink, is one of the +most thrilling he ever wrote.[5] + +Selous and his comrades here met their first giraffes and proceeded to +give chase. + + "After a time the giraffes separated, and suffice it to say + that, at the end of an hour or so, I found myself lying on my + back, with my right leg nearly broken, by coming violently into + contact with the trunk of a tree; and, on getting up and + remounting my horse, not only were the giraffes out of sight, + but nowhere could I see either of my two companions. Though, of + course, my inexperience contributed much to the unsuccessful + issue of this, my first giraffe hunt, yet I cannot help thinking + that my horse also had a good deal to do with it, for, having + been bred in the open plains of the Transvaal Republic, he was + quite at sea in the thick forests of the interior; and if, when + going at full gallop through a thick wood, you intend to pass on + one side of a tree, but your horse, being of a different + opinion, swerves suddenly and goes to the other, it is awkward, + to say the least of it. + + "My first object was to rejoin my companions; so, not having + heard a shot, and imagining they must by this time have given up + chasing the giraffes, I fired as a signal, and at once heard a + shot in answer far to my right, and rode in that direction. + After riding some distance I again pulled up, and shouted with + all my might, and then, not hearing anything, fired another + signal shot, but without effect. As my horse was very tired, I + now off-saddled for a short time and then fired a third shot, + and listened intently for an answer, but all was silent as the + grave; so, as the sun was now low, I saddled up again and struck + a line for the waggon road, thinking my friends had already done + the same thing. In this way I rode on at a slow pace, for my + horse was tired and thirsty, keeping steadily in one direction + till the sun, sinking lower and lower, at last disappeared + altogether. I expected I should have reached the road before + this, and, attributing my not doing so to the fact of the path + having taken a turn to the right, still kept on till twilight + had given place to moonlight--a fine bright moonlight, indeed, + for it wanted but two nights to the full, but, under the + circumstances, perhaps a trifle cold and cheerless. Still, + thinking I must be close to the road, I kept on for another + couple of hours or so, when, it being intensely cold, I resolved + to try and light a fire, and pass the night where I was and ride + on again early the following morning. Having no matches, I had + to make use of my cartridges, of which I had only three + remaining, in endeavouring to get a light. Breaking one of these + open, I rubbed some of the powder well into a bit of linen torn + from my shirt, slightly wetted, and, putting it into the muzzle + of the rifle, ignited it with the cap and a little powder left + in the bottom of the cartridge. So far well and good, but this + was, unfortunately, almost as far as I could get; for, though I + managed to induce some grass to smoulder, I couldn't for the + life of me make it flare, and soon had the mortification of + finding myself, after two more unsuccessful attempts, just as + cold and, hungry as before, and minus my three cartridges to + boot. Were the same circumstances to occur again, no doubt + everything would be very different; but at that time I was quite + a tyro in all forest lore. It was now piercingly cold, though + during the day the sun had been as hot as at midsummer in + England--regular South African fashion. Still, I thought it + better to pass the night where I was; so, tying my horse to a + tree, I cut a little grass with my pocket knife to lie upon, and + turned in. My entire clothing consisted of a hat, shirt, pair of + trousers, and veldt shoes, as I had ridden away from the waggon + without my coat. However, lying on my back, with my felt hat for + a pillow, I put the saddle over my chest and closed my eyes in + the vain hope that I should soon fall asleep and forget my + cares; vain indeed, for the bitter cold crept in gradually and + stealthily from my feet upwards, till I was soon shivering from + head to foot as if my very life depended on it. After having + worked hard at this unpleasant exercise for a couple of hours or + more, watching the moon all the time, and cursing its tardy + pace, I could stand it no longer; so, getting up with + difficulty--for I was regularly stiffened by the cold--I ran + backwards and forwards to a tree at a short distance until I was + again warm, when I once more lay down; and in this manner the + weary hours wore away till day dawned. During the night a couple + of hyenas passed close to me, enlivening the silence with their + dismal howlings. I have often thought since that they must have + been on their way to drink, perhaps at some pit or spring not + far off; how I wished that I had known where! I will take this + opportunity of saying that the howl of the African hyena is + about the most mournful and weird-like sound in nature, being a + sort of prolonged groan, rising in cadence till it ends in a + shriek; they only laugh when enjoying a good feed. + + "At first dawn of day I once more saddled up and rode in the + same direction as before. My poor horse was so tired and thirsty + that he would only go at a very slow pace; so I didn't make + much progress. On coming to a high tree I stopped and climbed up + it, and looked about me to try and recognize some landmark. On + every side the country was covered with forest, and in the + distance were several low ranges of hills, yet nothing seemed + familiar to my eye. Right ahead, in the direction in which I had + been riding, appeared a line of densely wooded hills, with one + single kopje standing alone just in front of them, and thither I + determined to ride. On the way I passed three beautiful + gemsbuck, which allowed me to come quite close to them, though + they are usually very wild; but they had nothing to fear from + me, as I had no cartridges, and so could do nothing more than + admire them. Thus I rode on and on, until the idea occurred to + me that I must have ridden across the road (a mere narrow track) + without noticing it in the moonlight, as I had constantly been + star-gazing after the sun went down, so as to guide my course by + the position of the Southern Cross. After a time, I at last felt + so sure that this was the case, that I turned my horse's head to + the right-about, and rode back again in the direction from which + I had just come." + +He was now hopelessly lost but did not give way to despair, as so many +in a similar position have done. Nothing but a level sea of forest +surrounded him, so he turned his jaded horse to the setting sun in the +west in the hope of again striking the road. After another night in the +wilderness he awoke to find his horse gone. Far to the south-west was a +line of hills and after walking without food or water till the moon +rose, he reached the mountains. At sunrise he topped the crest of the +range, hoping to see the maize fields of Bamangwato, but saw nothing. +Worn out with thirst, fatigue, and hunger he started again at sunrise +and at last at sundown he met two Kafirs who eventually took him to +their kraal and gave him water and milk. + + "The next morning, as soon as it was light, accompanied by the + Kafir who carried my rifle, I made a start, and, though very + tired and worn out from privation, managed to reach the waggons + late in the afternoon, after an absence of five days and four + nights. How I enjoyed the meal that was hastily prepared for + me, and how delightful it was to keep out the bitter cold with a + couple of good blankets, I will leave the reader to conjecture." + +Of course, he lost his valuable salted horse, which although hobbled, +found its way back to Bamangwato. But Selous could never claim it as he +had sold his right to it to a Mr. Elstob at Tati. At Goqui he saw his +first lions. Unfortunately he had fired a shot at two lionesses running +away, when a fine lion with dark coloured mane stood up and offered him +a splendid shot at 80 yards, but his rifle was empty, and as he had no +dogs to follow the lions when they had vanished, his first encounter +with lions gave him much disappointment. At the end of August they +reached Tati, and on leaving this place and passing the Ramaqueban river +the following day, Selous says: "Here I first saw a sable antelope, one +of the handsomest animals in the world," and anyone, indeed, who sees +this magnificent creature for the first time never forgets it. + +Next day he reached Minyama's kraal, the frontier outpost of the +Matabele country, where most of the inhabitants were Makalakas in native +dress. The country now became beautiful and park-like in character, and +this extends to Bulawayo, the town founded by Lobengula in 1870, and +where the sable king dwelt. On receipt of messages announcing their +arrival, the king arrived, dressed in a greasy shirt, a costume which +shortly afterwards he discarded for native dress. "He asked me what I +had come to do," writes Selous. "I said I had come to hunt elephants, +upon which he burst out laughing, and said, 'Was it not steinbucks' (a +diminutive species of antelope) 'that you came to hunt? Why, you're only +a boy.' I replied that, although a boy, I nevertheless wished to hunt +elephants and asked his permission to do so, upon which he made some +further disparaging remarks regarding my youthful appearance, and then +rose to go without giving me any answer." + +But Selous was persistent and again begged for permission. "This time he +asked me whether I had ever seen an elephant, and upon my saying no, +answered, 'Oh, they will soon drive you out of the country, but you may +go and see what you can do!'" When Selous asked him where he might go, +Lobengula replied impatiently, "Oh, you may go wherever you like, you +are only a boy." + +It was about this time that the famous Boer elephant hunter, Jan +Viljoen, arrived at Bulawayo and offered to take Sadlier and Selous to +his waggons on the River Gwenia to join his hunting party. This was an +opportunity not to be lost. In eight days the party, after crossing the +Longwe, Sangwe, Shangani, and Gwelo, reached the Gwenia and found the +patriarchal encampment of the Boer elephant hunters. The Boers then, as +now, travelled even into the far interior with wives, children, cows, +sheep, goats, and fowls, and established a "stand-place" whilst the men +hunted in all directions, being absent for a week to a month at a time. +A slight accident now prevented Selous from going in on foot with the +Viljoens to hunt in the "fly." He went off at the Boer's request to buy +some corn and on the way back, in passing some Griqua waggons at Jomani, +he saw for the first time a Hottentot named Cigar, with whom later he +became better acquainted. + +Cigar was an experienced hunter and as it seemed now hopeless to follow +Viljoen he decided to go in and hunt with the Hottentot. It may be +gathered how roughly they lived from Selous' own words: "Having now run +through all my supplies of coffee, tea, sugar, and meal, we had nothing +in the provision line but Kafir corn and meat of the animals we shot, +washed down by cold water." + +Cigar--besides two Kafirs who were shooting for him, and carried their +own guns and a supply of ammunition--had only three spare boys who +carried his blankets, powder, Kafir corn, and a supply of fresh meat. He +himself carried his own rifle, a heavy old four-bore muzzle-loader. "As +for me," says Selous, "having had to leave two of my Kafirs to look +after my horses and oxen, I had but one youngster with me, who carried +my blanket and spare ammunition, whilst I shouldered my own old +four-bore muzzle-loader, and carried besides a leather bag filled with +powder, and a pouch containing twenty four-ounce round bullets. Though +this was hardly doing the thing _en grand seigneur_, I was young and +enthusiastic in those days and trudged along under the now intense heat +with a light heart." + +It must be remembered that at this time nearly all the old Boer and +English elephant-hunters, such as men like Piet Schwarz, William +Finaughty, Hartley, the Jennings family, J. Giffard, T. Leask, and H. +Biles, had given up the game of elephant-hunting when horses could be no +longer used and the elephants themselves must be pursued on foot in the +"fly." Only George Wood, Jan Viljoen,[6] and the greatest hunter of all +in South Africa, Petrus Jacobs, still pursued the elephant, but the +difficulty, danger, distance, and scarcity of elephant haunts were now +so defined and the results so small that none save the very hardiest +were able to follow them. + +At this time (1873) Piet Jacobs was undoubtedly the most famous hunter +in South Africa. During a long life, most of which was spent in the +Mashuna and Matabele country, he is supposed to have shot between 400 +and 500 bull elephants, mostly killed by hunting them from horseback, +but even after as an old man he killed many on foot in the "fly" +country. Unlike most Boers, he constantly attacked lions whenever he had +the opportunity, and Selous considers that he shot "more lions than any +man that ever lived." His usual method in hunting these animals was, if +the first shot missed, to loose three or four strong "Boer" dogs, which +quickly ran the lion to bay. Then, as a rule, it was easily killed. One +day, however, in 1873, on the Umniati river he was terribly mauled by a +lion that charged after being bayed by his three dogs. His shot at the +charging lion missed, and he was thrown to the ground and severely +bitten on the thigh, left arm, and hand. The dogs, however, now came up +and saved his life, but it was a long time before he recovered. He said +that, unlike the experience of Dr. Livingstone, the bites of the lion +were extremely painful, at which Selous humorously remarks that the +absence of suffering in such a case is an especial mercy "which +Providence does not extend beyond ministers of the Gospel." + +Of William Finaughty, the greatest of the English elephant-hunters, +neither Selous nor any contemporary writer gives any particulars, so I +am indebted to Mr. G. L. Harrison, an American gentleman, for his +"Recollections of William Finaughty," which was privately printed in +1916. He met Finaughty, who was then a very slight old man, with a +wonderful memory and much weakened by attacks of fever, in 1913. +Finaughty was one of the first white men to hunt elephants in +Matabeleland, and his activities extended from 1864 to 1875, when he +gave up serious hunting because he could no longer pursue them on +horseback. + +Finaughty describes himself as a harum-scarum youth who left Grahamstown +at the age of twenty-one early in 1864. He passed north through the Free +State, then swarming with tens of thousands of black wildebeest, +blesbok, springbok, quagga, blue wildebeest, and ostrich, and made his +way to Matabeleland, then ruled by Mzilikatse, a brother of the Zulu +king Chaka. After sport with lion and buffalo on the road, for all game, +including elephants, were abundant at this time, he reached Tati. Old +Mzilikatse was then a physical wreck but treated the Englishman well, +although at times he had violent outbursts of passion. Finaughty was +witness of a great dance in which 2500 warriors took part, and on which +occasion 540 oxen were slaughtered. Horse-sickness was then rife in the +country and the party lost fourteen horses out of seventeen within +thirty hours. In this, his first trip, Finaughty only killed three +elephants, which he attributed to lack of experience. On his second trip +in 1865 he did better, whilst a third in 1866 was made purely for +trading, yet he shot eight elephants and then decided to become a hunter +only. + +On the fourth trip he shot nineteen elephants, but in 1868, on the +Umbila, he states that he had "the two finest months of my life. In all +I shot 95 elephants, the ivory weighing 5000 lbs." + +One day he had a narrow escape in the sandy bed of the Sweswe river. He +had wounded an old bull when he fired at it again as it was on the point +of charging. His boy had put in two charges and the hunter was nearly +knocked out of the saddle by the recoil. The elephant then charged and +got right on the top of him, but, at the moment when death seemed +imminent, the elephant's shoulder-bone broke and he was helpless--thus +Finaughty escaped. In those days the elephants did not know the meaning +of gunfire. Finaughty one day bagged six bulls in a river bed, as they +did not run on the shots being fired. + +In 1869 he went into the elephant country one hundred miles beyond the +Tuli and remained there three years, sending out his ivory and receiving +fresh provisions and ammunition on the return of his waggons. In five +months he killed fifty-three elephants yielding 3000 lbs. of ivory. In +one day he killed five bulls and five cows, which was his "record" bag +for one day. In the two following years he killed a large number of +elephants, but does not state the precise number. In 1870 he again +hunted elephants without giving particulars. + +From 1870 to 1874 Finaughty remained at Shoshong as a trader and +prospered. + +It is interesting to note that Finaughty, like many experienced hunters, +does not agree with Selous in considering the lion the most dangerous of +all African game. He repeatedly says that buffalo-hunting is the most +risky of all forms of hunting.[7] "Far better," he says, "follow up a +wounded lion than a wounded buffalo, for the latter is the fiercest and +most cunning animal to be found in Africa." He himself had many narrow +escapes from buffaloes and only one or two unpleasant incidents with +lions. "No," he remarks again, "a man who is out after buffalo must +shoot to kill and not to wound, and if he fails to bring his quarry down +he should on no account venture to follow up unless in open country. He +should never follow a buffalo into cover, unless he is accompanied by a +number of good dogs. Many a good man has lost his life through neglect +of this precaution." Finaughty lived in the Transvaal from 1883 to 1887, +and then moved to Johannesburg in the early days of the "boom." In the +nineties he returned to Matabeleland to spend the rest of his days on +his farm near Bulawayo. He was still alive in 1914. + +What would, however, have been only toil and hardship to older men was +small discomfort to a tough young fellow like Selous, who was now in his +natural element. Almost at once he and Cigar tracked and killed a grand +old bull which carried tusks of 61 and 58 lbs. On the following days +they killed six elephants, Cigar accounting for four. Selous here pays a +high tribute to the good qualities of his dusky companion. "Cigar was a +slight-built, active Hottentot, possessed of wonderful powers of +endurance, and a very good game shot, though a bad marksman at a target. +These qualities, added to lots of pluck, made him a most successful +elephant-hunter; and for foot hunting in the 'fly' country I do not +think I could have had a more skilful preceptor; for although only an +uneducated Hottentot--once a jockey at Grahamstown--he continually +allowed me to have the first shot, whilst the elephants were still +standing--a great advantage to give me--and never tried in any way to +over-reach me or claim animals that I had shot, as is so often done by +Boer hunters. Strangely enough, Cigar told me, when the celebrated +hunter, Mr. William Finaughty, first took him after elephants on +horseback, he had such dreadful fear of the huge beasts that, after +getting nearly caught by one, and never being able to kill any, he +begged his master to let him remain at the waggons. When I knew him this +fear must have worn off, and I have never since seen his equal as a foot +hunter." Selous did very well with Cigar, getting 450 lbs. of ivory +which he had shot himself, and another 1200 lbs. which he had traded +with the natives, thus making a clear profit of L300. When he saw the +king, he told him that the elephants had not driven him out of the +country, but that he had killed several, to which Lobengula replied, +"Why, you're a man; when are you going to take a wife?" and suggested +that he should court one at once. + +Selous' friends had now all left the country, but he himself decided to +remain in Matabeleland to be ready to hunt in the following year with +George Wood. As usual, however, Lobengula took months to give his +permission, so that it was not until the 15th June, 1873, that he gave +permission to the two hunters to make a start. Even then he would not +allow them to go to the Mashuna country and stated that they must hunt +to the westward of the river Gwai. + +A fortnight after leaving Bulawayo Selous and Wood reached Linquasi, +where they began to hunt, and two days later they killed two fine bull +elephants. Here they established their main hunting-camp and made raids +into the "fly." During this season of four months Selous killed +forty-two elephants and George Wood fifty. They also accounted for a +good many rhinoceros and buffalo. Their main hunting veldt was the "fly" +region between the rivers Zambesi and Gwai. It was a broken country full +of hills, "kloofs," dense bush and park-like opens. This area was +formerly inhabited by the Makalakas, but these had been driven across +the Zambesi by raiding Matabele. These regions were consequently a great +game preserve and full of elephant, black and white rhinoceros, buffalo, +zebra, sable, roan, koodoo, impala, reedbuck, klipspringer, grysbok, +bushbuck, waterbuck, and other antelopes. In "A Hunter's Wanderings" +Selous gives many interesting accounts of his hunts after elephants, but +perhaps his best is the splendid narrative of his great day, of which I +am permitted to give his own description.[8] + + "As soon as the day dawned, we sent a couple of Kafirs down to + the water to see if any elephants had been there, and on their + return in a quarter of an hour with the joyful tidings that a + fine troop of bulls had drunk during the night, we at once + started in pursuit. We found they had come down from the + right-hand side, and returned on their own spoor, feeding along + nicely as they went, so that we were in great hopes of + overtaking them without much difficulty. Our confidence, + however, we soon found was misplaced, for after a time they had + ceased to feed, and, turning back towards the N.E., had taken to + a path, along which they had walked in single file and at a + quick pace, as if making for some stronghold in the hills. Hour + after hour we trudged on, over rugged stony hills, and across + open grassy valleys, scattered over which grew clumps of the + soft-leaved machabel trees, or rather bushes; but, though the + leaves and bark of this tree form a favourite food of elephants, + those we were pursuing had turned neither to the right nor to + the left to pluck a single frond. + + "After midday, the aspect of the country changed, and we entered + upon a series of ravines covered with dense, scrubby bush. + Unfortunately the grass here had been burnt off, but for which + circumstance the elephants, I feel sure, would have halted for + their midday sleep. In one of these thickets we ran on to three + black rhinoceroses (_R. bicornis_) lying asleep. When we were + abreast of them they got our wind, and, jumping up, rushed close + past the head of our line, snorting vigorously. It was a family + party, consisting of a bull, a cow, and a full-grown calf; they + passed so near that I threw at them the thick stick which I used + for a ramrod, and overshot the mark, it falling beyond them. + + "Shortly after this incident, we lost the spoor in some very + hard, stony ground, and had some trouble in recovering it, as + the Kafirs, being exhausted with the intense heat, and thinking + we should not catch the elephants, had lost heart and would not + exert themselves, hoping that we would give up the pursuit. By + dint of a little care and perseverance, however, we succeeded, + and after a time again entered upon a more open country. To cut + a long story short, I suppose it must have been about two hours + before sundown when we came to a large tree, from which the + elephants had only just moved on. At first we thought they must + have got our wind and run, but on examination we found they had + only walked quietly on. We put down the water-calabashes and + axes, and the Kafirs took off their raw-hide sandals, and then + we again, quickly but cautiously, followed on the spoor. It was + perhaps five minutes later when we at last sighted them, seven + in number, and all large, full-grown bulls. W. and I walked up + to within thirty yards or so, and fired almost simultaneously; + he at one standing broadside, and I at another facing me. Our + Hottentot boy also fired, and, as the animals turned, a volley + was given by our Kafirs, about ten of whom carried guns. Not an + elephant, however, seemed any the worse, and they went away at a + great pace. Judging from the lie of the land ahead that they + would turn to the right, I made a cut with my two gun-bearers, + whilst W. kept in their wake. Fortune favoured me, for they + turned just as I had expected, and I got a splendid broadside + shot as they passed along the farther side of a little gully not + forty yards off. The Kafir having, as he ran, reloaded the gun + which I had already discharged and on which I placed most + dependence, I fired with it at the foremost elephant, an + enormous animal with long white tusks, when he was exactly + opposite to me. My boy had put in the powder with his hand, and + must have overloaded it, for the recoil knocked me down, and the + gun itself flew out of my hands. Owing to this, I lost a little + time, for, when I got hold of my second gun, the elephants had + turned back again (excepting the one just hit) towards W. and + the Kafirs. However, I gave another a bullet behind the big ribs + as he was running obliquely away from me. The first, which I had + hit right in the middle of the shoulder, was now walking very + slowly up a steep hill, looking as though he were going to fall + every instant; but, nevertheless (as until an elephant is + actually dead, there is no knowing how far he may go), I + determined to finish him before returning to the others. On + reaching the top of the hill, and hearing me coming on not a + dozen yards behind him, the huge beast wheeled round, and, + raising his gigantic ears, looked ruefully towards me. Poor + beast, he was doubtless too far gone to charge, and, on + receiving another ball in the chest, he stepped slowly + backwards, and then sinking on to his haunches, threw his trunk + high into the air and rolled over on his side, dead. + + [Illustration: Selous as a Young Man, in Hunting Costume.] + + "During this time, the remainder of the elephants, harried and + bewildered by the continuous firing of W. and our little army of + native hunters, had come round in a circle, and I saw the four + that still remained (for, besides the one I had killed, two more + were down) coming along in single file, at the long, quick half + run, half walk, into which these animals settle after their + first rush. I at once ran obliquely towards them; but, before I + could get near, one more first lagged behind, and then fell + heavily to the ground, so that there were but three remaining. + W., being blown, had been left behind; but most of the Kafirs + were still to the fore, firing away as fast as they could load, + from both sides. It was astonishing what bad shooting they made; + their bullets kept continually striking up the ground all round + the elephants, sometimes in front of their trunks, sometimes + behind them, and ever and anon one would come whistling high + overhead. It was in vain that I shouted to them to leave off + firing and let me shoot; their blood was up, and blaze away they + would. + + "Just as I was getting well up alongside, the elephants crossed + a little gully, and entered a small patch of scrubby bush, on + the slope of the hill beyond, in the shelter of which they at + once stopped and faced about, giving me a splendid chance. I had + just emptied both my guns, hitting one animal full in the chest, + and another, that was standing broadside to me, in the shoulder, + when loud lamentations and cries of 'Mai-ai!' 'Mai mamo!' burst + from my Kafir followers close behind. At the same time my two + gun-carriers, throwing down their guns, ran backwards, clapping + their hands, and shouting like the rest. Turning hastily round, + I saw a Kafir stretched upon the earth, his companions sitting + round him, wailing and clapping their hands, and at once + comprehended what had occurred. The poor fellow who lay upon the + ground had fired at the elephants, from about thirty yards + behind myself, and then ran up an ant-hill, just as another + Kafir, who preferred to keep at a safer distance, discharged a + random shot, which struck poor Mendose just between the + shoulder-blades, the bullet coming out on the right breast. I + ran up at once to see what could be done, but all human aid was + vain--the poor fellow was dead. At this moment two more shots + fell close behind, and a minute or two afterwards W. and our + Hottentot boy John came up. One of the three elephants had + fallen after my last shot, close at hand, and a second, sorely + wounded, had walked back right on to W. and John, who were + following on the spoor; and the two shots I had just heard had + sealed his fate. The third, however, and only surviving one out + of the original seven, had made good his escape during the + confusion, which he never would have done had it not been for + the untimely death of Mendose. + + "The sun was now close down upon the western skyline, and little + time was to be lost. The Kafirs still continued to shout and + cry, seeming utterly paralysed, and I began to think that they + were possessed of more sympathetic feelings than I had ever + given them credit for. However, on being asked whether they + wished to leave the body for the hyenas, they roused themselves. + As luck would have it, on the side of the very ant-hill on which + the poor fellow had met his death was a large deep hole, + excavated probably by an anteater, but now untenanted. Into this + rude grave, with a Kafir needle to pick the thorns out of his + feet, and his assegais with which to defend himself on his + journey to the next world, we put the body, and then firmly + blocked up the entrance with large stones, to keep the prowling + hyenas from exhuming it. Poor Mendose! he was an obedient, + willing servant, and by far the best shot of all our native + hunters. + + "The first thing to be done now was to cut some meat from one of + the elephants, and then get down to a pool of water which we had + passed during the hunt, and make a 'skerm' for the night. On + reaching the nearest carcase, which proved to be in fair + condition, I was much surprised to see my Kafirs throw aside + every semblance of grief, and fight and quarrel over pieces of + fat and other titbits in their usual manner. Even the fellow who + had had the misfortune to shoot his comrade, though he kept + asserting that 'his heart was dead,' was quite as eager as the + rest. In the evening they laughed and chatted and sang as usual, + ate most hearty suppers, and indeed seemed as if all memory of + the tragedy which had occurred but a few hours before, and which + at the time had seemed to affect them so deeply, had passed from + their minds. + + "Thus ended the best day's hunting, as regards weight of ivory, + at which I had ever assisted. The next day we set the Kafirs to + work with three American axes, and before nightfall the twelve + tusks (not one of which was broken) were lying side by side, + forming one of the finest trophies a sportsman's heart could + desire to look upon. The largest pair of tusks weighed 57 lbs. + apiece, and the smallest 29 lbs. and 31 lbs. respectively--a + very fair lot of bull ivory." + + A few days later he had an interesting day in the valley of the + Dett and experienced something of the difficulties and dangers + of the hunter's life.[9] + + "About an hour later, we came up with them, standing some fifty + yards away, on our right, under a clump of camel-thorn trees, + and in a rather open place compared with the general density of + the surrounding jungle. Besides the small troop of bulls we had + followed, and which were nearest to us, there was a very large + herd of cows standing just beyond, which, as we had not crossed + their spoor, had probably drunk at Sikumi--a water-hole not many + miles distant--and come to this rendezvous from the other side. + + "Taking a hasty gulp of water, we at once walked towards them. + As we advanced, the slight rustling of the bushes must have + attracted the attention of one of the bulls, for he raised his + trunk high in the air, and made a few steps forward. 'I'll take + him, and do you fire at the one with the long white tusks on the + left,' whispered W. 'Right you are!' was the reply, and the next + moment we fired. I just had time to see my elephant fall on his + knees, when he was hidden by the troop of cows that, awakened + from their sleep by the shots, and not knowing exactly where + the danger lay, came rushing towards us in a mass, one or two of + them trumpeting, and others making a sort of rumbling noise. + Seizing our second guns and shouting lustily, we again pulled + trigger. Our Hottentot boy John, and five of our Kafirs, who + still carried guns, also fired; on which the herd turned and + went off at right angles, enveloped in a cloud of dust. My gun + had only snapped the cap, but my Kafir, to whom I threw it back, + thinking in the noise and hurry that it was discharged, reloaded + it on the top of the old charge--a fact which I only found out, + to my sorrow, later on. The cloud of sand and dust raised by the + panic-stricken elephants was at first so thick that we could + distinguish nothing; but, running behind them, I soon made out + the bull I had wounded, which I recognized by the length and + shape of his tusks. He was evidently hard hit, and, being unable + to keep up with the herd, he turned out, and went off alone; but + he was joined almost immediately by four old cows, all with + small, insignificant tusks, and, instead of running away, they + walked along quite slowly, first in front of and then behind + him, as if to encourage him. Seeing how severely he was wounded, + I at once went after him, accompanied only by my two + gun-carriers, Nuta and Balamoya, W. and the rest of the Kafirs + going on after the troop. My bull was going so slowly that I had + no difficulty in threading my way through the bushes and getting + in front of him, which I did in order to get a broadside shot as + he passed me. One of the four cows that still accompanied him + walked along, carrying her head high and her tail straight in + the air, and kept constantly turning from side to side. 'That + cow will bother us; shoot her,' said Nuta, and I wish I had + taken his advice; but her tusks were so small, and the bull + seemed so very far gone, that I thought it would be a waste of + ammunition. I therefore waited till he was a little in front of + where I stood, and then gave him a bullet at very close + quarters, just behind the shoulder, and, as I thought, exactly + in the right place; but he nevertheless continued his walk as if + he had not felt it. Reloading the same gun, I ran behind him, + holding it before me in both hands, ready to raise at a moment's + notice, and, the four cows being some twenty yards in advance, I + shouted, hoping he would turn. The sound of my voice had the + desired effect; for he at once raised his ears and swung himself + round, or rather was in the act of doing so, for immediately his + ears went up my gun was at my shoulder, and as soon as he + presented his broadside I fired, on which he turned again, and + went crashing through the bushes at a trot. I thought that it + was a last spasmodic rush and that he would fall before going + very far; so, giving the gun back to Nuta to reload, I was + running after him, with my eyes fixed on the quivering bushes as + they closed behind him, when suddenly the trunk of another + elephant was whirled round, almost literally above my head, and + a short, sharp scream of rage thrilled through me, making the + blood tingle down to the very tips of my fingers. It was one of + the wretched old cows, that had thus lain in wait for me behind + a dense patch of bush. + + "Even had my gun been in my hands, I should scarcely have had + time to fire, so close was she upon me; but, as it was, both my + Kafirs were some fifteen yards behind, and the only thing I + could do was to run. How I got away I scarcely know. I bounded + over and through thorn-bushes which, in cold blood, I should + have judged impenetrable; but I was urged on by the short + piercing screams which, repeated in quick succession, seemed to + make the whole air vibrate, and by the fear of finding myself + encircled by the trunk or transfixed by the tusk of the enraged + animal. After a few seconds (for I don't think she pursued me a + hundred yards, though it seemed an age), the screaming ceased. + During the chase, the elephant was so close behind me, that + looking over my shoulder was impossible, and all that I did was + to dash forward, springing from side to side so as to hinder her + from getting hold of me, and it was only when the trumpeting + suddenly stopped that I knew I was out of her reach. I was + barelegged--as I always am when hunting on foot--and my only + garment before the beast charged was a flannel shirt; but I now + stood almost _in puris naturalibus_, for my hat, the leather + belt that I wore round my waist, and about three parts of my + shirt, had been torn off by the bushes, and I doubt if there was + a square inch of skin left uninjured anywhere on the front of my + body." + +Soon after another old bull charged him. + + "Taking a good sight for the middle of his shoulder, I pulled + the trigger. This time the gun went off--it was a four-bore + elephant gun, loaded twice over, and the powder thrown in each + time by a Kafir with his hands--and I went off too! I was lifted + clean from the ground, and turning round in the air, fell with + my face in the sand, whilst the gun was carried yards away over + my shoulder. At first I was almost stunned with the shock, and I + soon found that I could not lift my right arm. Besides this, I + was covered with blood, which spurted from a deep wound under + the right cheek-bone, caused by the stock of the gun as it flew + upwards from the violence of the recoil. The stock + itself--though it had been bound round, as are all + elephant-guns, with the inside skin of an elephant's ear put on + green, which when dry holds it as firmly as iron--was shattered + to pieces, and the only wonder was that the barrel did not + burst. Whether the two bullets hit the elephant or not I cannot + say; but I think they must have done so, for he only went a few + yards after I fired, and then stood still, raising his trunk + every now and then, and dashing water tinged with blood over his + chest. I went cautiously up to within forty yards or so of him, + and sat down. Though I could not hold my arm out, I could raise + my forearm, so as to get hold of the trigger; but the shock had + so told on me, that I found I could not keep the sight within a + yard of the right place. The elephant remained perfectly still; + so I got Nuta to work my arm about gently, in order to restore + its power, and hoped that in the meantime the Kafir, whose + shouting had originally brought the elephant to me, would come + up and be able to go and fetch W. No doubt, if I had shouted he + would have come at once, for he could not have been very far + off; but had I done so the elephant might either have charged, + or else continued his flight, neither of which alternatives did + I desire. After a short time, seeing no chance of aid arriving, + and my nerves having got a little steadier, I took my favourite + gun from Nuta, and, resting my elbow on my knee, took a quiet + pot shot. I was, however, still very unsteady even in this + position, but I do not think the bullet could have struck very + far from the right place. The elephant on receiving the shot + made a rush forwards, crashing through the bushes at a quick + walk, so that we had to run at a hard trot to keep him in sight. + He now seemed very vicious, for, hearing a dry branch snap, he + turned and ran towards us, and then stood with his ears up, + feeling about in all directions with his trunk to try and get + our wind. + + "Nuta, who up to this day had always been a most staunch and + plucky gun-bearer, now seemed seized with a panic, and refused + to bring me the gun any more, calling out, 'Leave the elephant, + sir; this day you're bewitched, and will surely be killed.' + However, as the elephant was evidently very severely wounded, I + had no idea of giving over the chase as long as I could keep up, + and, after bestowing a few Anglo-Saxon idioms upon Nuta, I again + ran on. The bush now became very thick, and, as the elephant was + going straight away, I could not get a chance of a shot. About a + mile farther on, however, we came to one of those large open + turf flats which occur here and there in the midst of the + sinangas. It was quite a mile square, and perfectly bare, with + the exception of a few large camel-thorn trees, which were + scattered about in clumps. On reaching this opening, the + elephant, instead of turning back into the bush, as I should + have expected, kept his course, making straight for the farther + side, and going at that long, swinging walk, to keep up with + which a man on foot must run at a fair pace. I had now been a + long time bare-headed, exposed to the heat of the fierce + tropical sun, and the kick I had received from the gun had so + much shaken me, that I felt dead-beat, and could scarcely drag + one leg after the other. I saw that I should never be able to + run up to within shot of the elephant, which was now about 150 + yards ahead; so, taking the gun from Nuta, I told him to try and + run right round him, and by shouting turn him back towards me. + Relieved of the weight of the gun, and being a splendid runner, + he soon accomplished this, and standing behind the stem of a + camel-thorn tree a long way in advance, holloed loudly. + Accordingly, I had the satisfaction of seeing the elephant stop, + raise his ears, look steadily in the direction of the noise, and + then wheel round, and come walking straight back towards the + jungle he had just left, taking a line which would bring him + past me, at a distance of about fifty or sixty yards. I stood + perfectly still, with Balamoya kneeling close behind me; for, + though elephants can see very well in the open, I have always + found that if they do not get your wind, and you remain + motionless, they seem to take you for a tree or a stump. To this + I now trusted, and as the elephant came on I had full leisure to + examine him. The ground between us was as bare as a board, + except that it was covered with coarse grass about a foot high, + and he looked truly a gigantic and formidable beast; his tusks + were small for his size, one of them being broken at the point, + and I do not think they could have weighed much over 30 lbs. + apiece. He came steadily on, swinging his trunk backwards and + forwards, until he was about seventy yards from where I stood, + when suddenly I was dismayed to see his trunk sharply raised, as + if to catch a stray whiff of wind, and the next instant he + stopped and faced full towards us, with his head raised, and his + enormous ears spread like two sails. He took a few steps towards + us, raising his feet very slowly, and bringing them down as if + afraid of treading on a thorn. It was an anxious moment; he was + evidently very suspicious, but did not know what to make of us, + and had we remained motionless I believe he would still have + turned and walked on again. 'Stand still!' I whispered between + my teeth to Balamoya; but the sight of the advancing monster was + too much for him--he jumped up and bolted. The instant he moved, + on came the elephant, without trumpeting, and with his trunk + straight down. Though very shaky just before, the imminence of + the danger braced up my nerves, and I think I never held a gun + steadier than upon this occasion. As he was coming direct at me, + and as he did not raise his trunk, his chest was quite covered; + there was therefore nothing left but to fire at his head. He + came on at an astonishing pace, and I heard only the 'whish, + whish' of the grass as his great feet swept through it. He was + perhaps twenty yards off when I pulled the trigger. I aimed a + little above the root of the trunk and just between the eyes, + and directly I fired I ran out sideways as fast as I could, + though I had not much running left in me. Looking over my + shoulder, I saw him standing with his ears still up and his head + slightly turned, looking towards me; the blood was pouring down + his trunk from a wound exactly where I had aimed, and, as it was + inflicted by a four-ounce ball, backed by a heavy charge of + powder, I cannot understand why it did not penetrate to his + brain; it had half-stunned him, however, and saved my life, for, + had he come on again, it would have been utterly impossible for + me, fatigued as I was, to have avoided him. After standing still + for a short time, swaying himself gently from side to side, he + again turned and took across the flat. Nuta, seeing what had + happened, instead of trying to turn him again, cleared out of + his road, and, making a large circle, came back to me. Perhaps + it was as well he did so." + +Selous now gave up the pursuit without having killed a single elephant, +and it was ten days before he could use his arm again. + +In November, the rainy season having set in, Selous and Wood returned to +Bulawayo carrying 5000 lbs. weight of ivory. Selous bears testimony to +the extraordinary abundance of game at this time in South Africa, and +gives a wonderful word-picture of the extraordinary collection of +animals he saw one evening in October, 1873, in the valley of the Dett. + + "First, a few hundred yards higher up this valley than where we + were working, a herd of nine giraffes stalked slowly and + majestically from the forest, and, making their way to a pool of + water, commenced to drink. These giraffes remained in the open + valley until dark, one or other of them, from time to time, + straddling out his forelegs in a most extraordinary manner in + order to get its mouth down to the water. No other animals came + to drink in the pools between us and the giraffes. Possibly some + got our wind before leaving the shelter of the forest, though + the evening was very still. But below us, as far as one could + see down the valley, the open ground was presently alive with + game. One after another, great herds of buffaloes emerged from + the forest on either side of the valley and fed slowly down to + the water. One of these herds was preceded by about fifty zebras + and another by a large herd of sable antelopes. Presently two + other herds of sable antelopes appeared upon the scene, and a + second herd of zebras, and five magnificently horned old koodoo + bulls, whilst rhinoceroses both of the black and white species + (the latter predominating in numbers) were scattered amongst the + other game, singly or in twos and threes all down the valley. Of + course all this great concourse of wild animals had been + collected together in the neighbourhood of the valley of the + Dett owing to the drying up of all the valleys in the + surrounding country, and during the rainy season would have been + scattered over a wide area."[10] + +In 1874, Wood, Selous, Mr. and Lieutenant Garden trekked north, +intending to hunt on the Zambesi and Chobe rivers. They left Tati on May +6th and approached the Victoria Falls on June 10th, stopping on the way +at Daka, where Wood and Selous killed some elephants, and the latter had +a somewhat narrow escape from a charging bull which he managed to kill +just at the right moment. On June 27th they viewed the wonderful Falls +of Zambesi, and Selous, like all other travellers, goes into ecstasies +at their beauty and grandeur. Here they encountered for the first time a +rare antelope, the pookoo, which gave Selous much pleasure, for it may +be said that from this date he commenced his wonderful collection of +African mammals. During, and after, 1874, he never failed to preserve +and keep for his own collection all the best specimens of big game he +shot, then having unrivalled opportunities for getting the finest +trophies. This can, of course, only be achieved when animals are +abundant. He often lamented afterwards that he did not take more care to +get some buffalo bulls of the first quality, for he certainly saw and +killed great numbers in those early years, yet he only kept three or +four heads of bulls that were in no way remarkable, when he could have +possessed the best specimens in existence. When he wanted them it was +too late. + +At the Zambesi, Wood decided to go eastward to the Gwai, so Selous and +the Gardens travelled west into the unknown country of the Chobe. On the +first day Selous killed a splendid koodoo bull which he preserved, and +shortly afterwards encountered numerous herds of pookoo and other +antelopes. The country about the Chobe was in fact about the best for +mixed game at this period, and Selous revelled in the wealth of animal +life, though he devoted most of his energies to looking for elephants, +which were here difficult to kill owing to shifting winds. One day he +had quite a little battle with the fierce buffalo cow.[11] + + "On again arriving at the open valley mentioned above, I found + it occupied by a large herd of two or three hundred buffaloes, + that had emerged from the surrounding jungle during my absence, + and were now feeding quietly down towards the river for their + evening drink. Though I hardly liked to fire, for fear of + disturbing elephants, some of which might, for all I knew, be + within hearing, yet, on the other hand, I had a strong desire to + secure a nice fat buffalo steak for supper, and at last + forgetting all more prudent resolves, and sympathising with the + feelings of my Kafirs who kept entreating me to shoot them a fat + cow, I took my four-bore elephant-gun and advanced towards the + still unconscious herd, resolved to kill one if possible. Those + that were nearest were about one hundred and twenty yards from + the edge of the bush, beyond which there was no shelter, save + that afforded by a few large scattered goussy trees. However, by + creeping cautiously forward on my hands and knees, I managed to + get within eighty yards or so, when an old cow observing me, + raised her head and gazed steadily towards where I crouched. + There was no time to be lost, as I saw she was thoroughly + alarmed, so, singling out a fine fat cow, that stood broadside + on close beside her, I raised my heavy gun, and taking a quick + aim behind her shoulder, fired. The loud bellow that followed + the shot told me she was hard hit, but I could see nothing, for + the whole herd, startled by the report of the gun, rushed + together in wild affright, and now stood in a dense mass, facing + towards their hidden foe, effectually screening the wounded cow + from my view. In another instant, seemingly satisfied that + something dangerous was near, they turned about and galloped + away across the valley, making for the bush on the opposite + side, and on the dust raised by their many feet subsiding, I + beheld the one I had wounded still standing where she had been + shot, and thought she was about done for; but on seeing me step + from behind a tree, she immediately wheeled round and made for + the jungle. + + "When the herd ran together, after I had fired, with several + nasty-looking old bulls in their front, my native attendants had + all retreated precipitately to the edge of the bush (with the + exception of one of the Masaras, who was carrying a small gourd + of water slung on an assegai over his shoulder), or I might have + given the cow another shot with my second gun before she turned + to run. Although evidently severely wounded, she still managed + to get over the ground at a great rate, and entered the bush at + least 100 yards in advance of myself and the Bushman, who were + following at our best pace, the Kafirs carrying my guns being a + considerable distance behind. Just within the edge of the jungle + was one very thick patch, unlike the greater part, covered with + foliage, and behind this the wounded buffalo turned and stood at + bay waiting for her pursuers. Not thinking of this stratagem (a + very common one with both buffaloes and elephants), and + imagining her to be a considerable distance ahead, I ran into + her very horns before I saw her, and she at the same time seeing + me at once charged, with eyes on fire, and her nose stretched + straight out, grunting furiously. Luckily she was not standing + head on, but broadside to me, and so could not come straight at + me, but had first to turn round the bush. This gave me time to + spring through the bushes to one side, as she rushed past, when + she immediately made at the Bushman, who, springing into a + small sapling, just swung his body up out of reach as she passed + beneath. So close was she, that, as the calabash full of water, + which he had been carrying slung on an assegai, fell to the + ground behind him, she smashed it to atoms, either with her feet + or horns, just as, if not before, it touched the ground. After + this she turned and stood under the very slender tree on which + the Bushman hung, looking up at him, and grunting furiously, but + not attempting to butt the tree down, which I think she could + have accomplished had she but tried. At this instant the Kafir + who carried my ten-bore rifle, reaching the scene of action + unperceived by the buffalo, fired at and missed her, on which + she again retreated behind the bush from whence she had first + charged. By this time, however, I had my second elephant-gun in + my hands, and creeping up gave her another bullet on the point + of the shoulder, just as she caught sight of me and was again + turning to charge. On receiving this second ball, she fell to + the ground, and snatching up an assegai, and followed by several + of the Kafirs, we ran in and despatched her before she could + rise. She proved to be a dry cow in splendid condition." + +He killed several good bull elephants in the Chobe bush and had some +narrow escapes, once nearly losing his life owing to the caps missing +fire. What delighted him most was the abundance of other game he saw. He +believed the sable antelopes here carried finer horns than in any part +of South Africa, south of the Zambesi, and often wished afterwards he +had shot one or two, but when he encountered them he was always after +elephants, so he did not fire. The best specimen of this grand animal he +killed in Northern Mashunaland three years later, and its horns measured +441/2 ins. in length, but he always thought that somewhere in Africa there +were greater sable antelopes than this, and one day, in later years, he +found in the museum at Florence a wonderful single horn of 60 inches. +For years he tried to find out where it came from without success. Now +we know it must have been sent from Angola, Portuguese West Africa, for +on the Quanza river some remarkable specimens have been obtained, +reaching up to 63 inches but it is feared that they are few in number +there, and nearly extinct. + +Near the Chobe on some marshy flats he found the lechwe antelope for the +first time and killed some good examples, and he accurately +described[12] the curious movements of these antelopes. + + "When first they make up their minds to run, these lechwe buck + stretch out their noses, laying their horns flat along their + backs, and trot like an eland, but on being pressed break into a + springing gallop, now and then bounding high into the air like + impalas. Even when in water up to their necks they do not swim, + but get along by a succession of bounds with great rapidity, + making a tremendous splashing and general commotion. Of course + when the water becomes too deep for them to bottom they are + forced to swim, which they do well and strongly, though not as + fast as the natives can paddle, and in the rainy season, when + the country is flooded, great numbers are driven into deep water + and speared before they can again reach the shallows where they + can touch ground. It is owing to their being thus driven about + and harried by the natives in canoes, I suspect, that they are + so wild, as I don't think they can often have heard the sound of + a gun before." + +In September he was very lucky with the elephants, killing five each day +on September 4th and September 8th. Altogether he shot twenty-four in +1874. + + "During the intensely hot weather in September and October, just + before the rains fall, elephants soon become fatigued if driven + about and exposed to the fierce sun. When they get hot and tired + they insert their trunks into their mouths and draw out water + from their stomachs, which they dash over their breasts and + shoulders to cool themselves; and when the supply of water is + exhausted they will sometimes throw sand over their bodies, + which one would suppose would only make them hotter than they + were before. Though, as I have said, elephants get knocked up + comparatively soon when hunted during the hot weather, yet, as + may be imagined, it is killing work following them on foot at + that season, in deep sandy ground and under a tropical sun, and + with nothing to drink but a very limited allowance of water + carried in a gourd, which soon gets lukewarm from the intensity + of the heat."[13] + +On September 11th he made a start for home, reaching Daka on September +26th, after an absence of three months. He then went east to trade at +Wankie, where he got 300 lbs. of good ivory. In December he trekked +south to the Tati, where he shot his first lion. Thus it was three years +before Selous actually shot a lion in Africa--a fact that may seem +somewhat strange, but not so much when we consider the nocturnal habits +of these animals. I knew a man in East Africa who lived in a district +where lions are far more abundant than they were in South Africa, who, +though constantly shooting and travelling in lion haunts, had never once +seen one of these beasts in the course of several years. + +Selous' first lions were evidently of the fighting order, as they always +are, when pressed by a mounted man.[14] + + "On this occasion, as Dorehill and myself were riding through a + patch of bush, our ears were suddenly saluted with a muffled + growling that we did not immediately interpret. The next + instant, however, Hartebeest rushed forward, pointing with his + assegai, and shouting, 'Isilouan! isilouan!' (lions! lions!). I + saw nothing, but galloped through the bush in the direction he + pointed, Dorehill heading a little to the right. A few moments + later, coming to a more open part, I saw two large lionesses + trotting along in front of me. Upon hearing me behind them, they + both stopped, and standing broadside to me, turned their heads + and looked towards me. Pulling in my horse, I jumped to the + ground, upon which they started off again at a gallop. I fired + at the hindermost one as she ran, and evidently struck her, for + she threw up her tail and gave a loud growl. They now went into + a patch of short mopani bush, beyond which the country was open + forest, with no underwood. At first they trotted out into this + open forest, but the wounded one not seeming to like it, turned, + and squatting on the ground, crept back like a cat, with her + shoulders above her back, and her eyes all the time fixed upon + me, until she reached a little thorn-bush, under which she + stretched herself at full length, and lay watching me with her + head couched on her outstretched paws. All this time the other + lioness was standing in the open, and I was just going to + dismount and fire at her, when, turning towards me, she trotted + a few steps forwards, and then, throwing her tail two or three + times straight into the air, came galloping forwards, growling + savagely. Turning my horse's head I pressed him to his utmost + speed, closely pursued by the lioness. I do not know how near + she got, but her loud purring growls sounded unpleasantly close. + As soon as the growling stopped, I knew she had given up the + chase, and so rode round in a half-circle to get a view of her. + She then trotted to a large mopani tree, in the shade of which + she stood. When I rode to another tree about sixty yards off, + she lowered her head and stood looking at me, snarling savagely, + with her tail held straight in the air. I think that she had + done her best to catch me, as her flanks were heaving like those + of a tired dog, with the exertion of her run. Feeling sure that + she would charge again as soon as she recovered her breath, I + steadied myself and fired from the saddle, but missed her. She + never took the slightest notice of the shot, but continued + snarling and growling. Resting the butt of my rifle (a single + ten-bore muzzle-loader) on my foot, I now reloaded with all + expedition, and fired again, the lioness all this time having + preserved the same position, standing exactly facing me. This + time I struck her right in the mouth, knocking out one of the + lower canine teeth, breaking the lower jaw-bone, and injuring + her neck. She fell to the shot instantly, and lay quite still. I + thought she was dead, but took the precaution to reload before + riding up to her. On my dismounting and walking towards her, she + raised herself on her fore-quarters, when I gave her a ball in + the shoulder which effectually settled her. Dorehill now came up + with the Kafirs. He had seen the other lions, a male and two + females, for there were five altogether, but they had given him + the slip in a patch of thick bush. We now went to look for the + one I had first wounded, but though there was a little blood + under the bush where she had been lying, we could discover no + further trace of her, and the ground being very hard no sign of + her spoor was visible, even to the keen eyes of the Bushmen. So, + after skinning the one I had killed, which was in beautiful + condition, we returned to the waggons." + +At Tati Selous received his first letters from home since he left the +Diamond Fields three years previously, and after reading their contents +he decided to go home, and so turned his face southward on February 1st, +1875. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[4] There was an exhibition of Baines' collected works at the Crystal +Palace some years ago, but few people took any notice of them. Baines +published an excellent book "The Gold Regions of South-Eastern Africa" +in 1877. + +[5] "A Hunter's Wanderings," pp. 15-23. + +[6] Finaughty states that in 1867 Jan Viljoen and his party killed 210 +elephants in one trip. This is probably the largest bag of elephants +ever made in one season. + +[7] In this matter Finaughty received powerful support in the evidence +of William Judd, possibly the most experienced African hunter now +living; he writes: "As for buffalo I consider them far and away the most +dangerous game. The difficulty of stopping a direct charge, as they very +rarely swerve even to the heaviest bullet--the way they can force +themselves through bush absolutely impenetrable to man and the nasty +habit they have, when wounded (and sometimes when not wounded) of +breaking away, making a detour and charging up again from behind, make +them an adversary worthy of the greatest respect. I personally have had +more close shaves from these brutes than I have had from all other big +game put together--lions and elephants included." + +[8] "A Hunter's Wanderings," pp. 84-88. + +[9] "A Hunter's Wanderings," pp. 89-99. + +[10] "African Nature Notes and Reminiscences," p. 134. + +[11] "A Hunter's Wanderings," pp. 120-123. + +[12] "A Hunter's Wanderings," pp. 137-138. + +[13] "A Hunter's Wanderings," p. 181. + +[14] _Ibid._, pp. 187-189. + + + + +CHAPTER IV +1876-1878 + + +The years 1872-1874 were undoubtedly the most strenuous of Selous' life, +for after his return to South Africa in 1876 he used the horse in the +greater part of his journeys in the interior, except on such trips as he +made into the "fly," when he seldom met with elephants. He landed again +at Algoa Bay on March 15th, 1876, and at once organized another trip +into the interior, taking four months before he reached the Matabele +country by bullock waggon. Here he met his old friend Dorehill, +Lieutenant Grandy, R.N., and a Mr. Horner, and as it was too late to +make an extensive trip after elephants the party spent the remainder of +the year in short hunting trips down the Tati, Shashi, and Ramokwebani +rivers. Much of this time was spent in hunting giraffes, and he gives +many lively accounts of this exhilarating sport, also of hunting +buffaloes and the larger antelopes. One day on the Ramokwebani Selous +and his friends had a thrilling hunt after an old male lion which gave +much trouble. Selous broke the animal's shoulder with the first shot and +then followed into thick bush in which the lion kept retreating. For +that evening he was lost as night came on, but next day Selous tried his +dogs, which seemed disinclined to face the quarry. The lion, however, +was soon found, as a wet night had made "spooring" easy, and he kept up +a continuous roaring, which is unusual. Grandy and Horner had shots, +after which the lion continued his retreat from one thicket to another, +but roaring at intervals.[15] + + "As it was, however, I was peering about into the bush to try + and catch sight of him, holding my rifle advanced in front of + me, and on full cock, when I became aware that he was coming at + me through the bush. The next instant out he burst. I was so + close that I had not even time to take a sight, but, stepping a + pace backwards, got the rifle to my shoulder, and, when his head + was close upon the muzzle, pulled the trigger and jumped to one + side. The lion fell almost at my very feet, certainly not six + feet from the muzzle of the rifle. Grandy and Horner, who had a + good view of the charge, say that he just dropped in his tracks + when I fired, which I could not see for the smoke. One thing, + however, I had time to notice, and that was that he did not come + at me in bounds, but with a rush along the ground. Perhaps it + was his broken shoulder that hindered him from springing, but + for all that he came at a very great rate, and with his mouth + open. Seeing him on the ground, I thought that I must have + shattered his skull and killed him, when, as we were advancing + towards him, he stood up again. Dorehill at once fired with a + Martini-Henry rifle, and shot him through the thigh. On this he + fell down again, and, rolling over on to his side, lay gasping. + We now went up to him, but, as he still continued to open his + mouth, Horner gave him a shot in the head. I now examined my + prize with great satisfaction. He was an average-sized lion, his + pegged-out skin measuring 10 ft. 3 in. from nose to tip of tail, + sleek, and in fine condition, and his teeth long and perfect. + Grandy and Horner must both have missed him when they first + fired, as we could find no mark of their bullets on the skin; so + that when he charged the only wound he had was the one I had + given him on the previous evening. This bullet had merely + smashed his shoulder-blade and lodged under the skin just behind + it. The bullet with which I so luckily stopped him when charging + had struck him fair on the head, about half an inch above the + right eye; here it had cracked the skull, but, without + penetrating, had glanced along the bone and come out behind the + right ear. I believe that this shot must have given him + concussion of the brain and caused his death, and that when he + stood up after it was merely a spasmodic action, for the shot + that Dorehill gave him was only a flesh wound through the + thighs, and the last shot that Horner gave him in the head as he + lay on the ground had passed beneath the brain-pan." + +At the Ramokwebani Selous met for the first time George Westbeech, the +well-known trader, who had for years traded in the far interior as a +pioneer. He principally worked the ivory business on the Zambesi and all +its confluents north and south. In 1871 he opened up a lucrative +business with Sepopo, king of the Barotsi, and between that year and +1876, when Sepopo was assassinated, he brought out no less than 30,000 +lbs. of ivory. He also traded much with the Portuguese on the Zambesi, +and his operations extended as far north as the Mashukulumbwe country. +Selous, as well as all travellers in the interior at this period, had a +great respect for Westbeech, and bears testimony to his high character +and integrity in dealings with the natives. He regarded him as a fine +type of the best class of English pioneer, and is scathing in his +denunciation of "stay-at-home aborigines' protectionists, who, +comfortably seated in the depths of their armchairs before a blazing +fire, are continually thundering forth denunciations against the +rapacious British colonist, and the 'low, immoral trader,' who exerts +such a baneful influence upon the chaste and guileless savages of the +interior. I speak feelingly, as I am proud to rank myself as one of that +little body of English and Scotch men who, as traders and +elephant-hunters in Central South Africa, have certainly, whatever may +be their failings in other respects, kept up the name of Englishmen +amongst the natives for all that is upright and honest. In the words of +Buckle, we are neither monks nor saints, but only men." + +Late in 1876 Selous went down to the Diamond Fields to fetch some +property, and trekked south via Bamangwato. This occupied five months +before he returned to Matabeleland. On December 6th he had an adventure +with lions at Pelatse. He was awakened at 2.30 by his boy, January, who +told him there was something on his horse. It was, however, too dark to +see to shoot, but he crept near and saw two lions leave the dead horse. +He then crawled close to the carcase and another lion rose and sprang +away. Just as daylight came in, however, he saw a lion lying "between me +and the horse, its tawny body pressed flat upon the yellow sand and its +great head couched upon its outstretched paws." He fired at it at a +distance of twelve paces and the lion rolled over, recovered, and made +off. When day broke he followed the wounded lion for several miles, but +never found it again. A few days later some Bushmen found the lion dead +and took the skin, but Selous never recovered it, as he had by this time +gone south. + +In "A Hunter's Wanderings," "The Lion in South Africa" (Badminton +Library), and "The Gun at Home and Abroad," Selous gives the most +complete account of the lion and its habits and mode of hunting that has +been written by any hunter of wide experience. + +It is somewhat curious to notice that three first-class authorities, +namely Selous, Finaughty, and Neumann, who all had a wide experience +with lions, buffaloes, and elephants, all differ entirely as to the +respective danger in dealing with these formidable animals. Selous +considered that the lion was much the worst when cornered, Finaughty is +emphatic that the buffalo is by far the most dangerous opponent, whilst +Neumann gives the elephant first place. Each hunter had ample +opportunities for gauging the fighting qualities of these animals, and +all agree that they are very dangerous, and give numerous examples from +their own experience, so that we are still left in doubt as to the real +issue. The experience of men who have only seen and shot a few lions, +buffaloes, and elephants is not of much value, because these beasts are +judged according to their behaviour in special cases, but Selous shot +many of all kinds when rifles were clumsy and inefficient, and even when +armed with the most accurate and powerful weapons, and yet adheres to +his point, that the lion never refuses battle when once he is stopped, +whilst buffaloes and elephants almost invariably try to get away unless +severely wounded. It is possible, however, that in past times lions in +South Africa were more savage than they are to-day in East Africa and +Somaliland, just as probably they were more prone to attack without +provocation in the days when Jules Gerard hunted lions in French +Algeria. At any rate this is the opinion of Sir Frederick Jackson, an +experienced hunter in East Africa, who, although admitting he had not +had a wide experience with lions, seems to think they always try to +sneak off whenever they can--even when wounded. William Judd, perhaps +the most experienced hunter of all game in East Africa, and a man who +has also killed many lions in South Africa, places the buffalo first as +the most dangerous animal, and his opinion is worthy of the highest +consideration. + +Selous bases his argument on the following:-- + + "That more accidents have happened in encounters with buffaloes + than with lions is not that the former is a more dangerous + animal than the latter, but because, for every lion that has + been killed in the interior, at least fifty buffaloes have been + brought to bay." + +All of which is perfectly true. + +Whilst on the subject of the comparative danger of various wild beasts +it may be interesting briefly to summarize the views of other +experienced hunters. Cuninghame and Tarlton place the elephant and the +lion equal first, with the buffalo third. Sir Frederick Jackson and +William Judd say the buffalo is easily first as a dangerous foe; whilst +Captain Stigand assigns the danger in the following order, viz.: lion, +elephant, rhinoceros, leopard, buffalo. Sir Samuel Baker makes a more +curious order--elephant, rhinoceros, buffalo, and lion the last. Oddly +enough, only one hunter, namely Drummond, places the rhinoceros as the +worst, but it must be remembered that when he hunted in South Africa +heavy rifles were scarce and somewhat inadequate. + +Nevertheless, despite all these very divided opinions, it is generally +agreed amongst all professional hunters, both Boers and British, with +whom I have discussed the question, both in East and South Africa, that +the buffalo is perhaps the most dangerous animal, because he is so hard +to stop and offers generally so sudden, so determined, and so +unfavourable a target when actually charging. + +When actually wounded and charging there is little doubt that the +buffalo is the toughest of all, because he bursts out suddenly from a +concealed spot and presents no vulnerable target, and I know from actual +experience how helpless a man feels when one of these brutes comes +grunting fiercely at his heels. Of course no man of sense does go poking +about in dense bush after a wounded buffalo, but then all hunters are +foolhardy sometimes and trouble ensues. We hate to leave a wounded +animal, especially if it carries a good head. Thus have nearly all the +numerous fatal accidents happened. A charging elephant is nearly always +turned by a frontal shot, whereas a buffalo is never stopped unless it +is mortally hit, but the chief danger in elephant-hunting seems to be +(so Neumann thought) from outside sources--that is from vicious cows in +the same herd which may be encountered suddenly. Neumann was an +exceedingly brave man, and in his first trips was only armed with an +ordinary .256 Mannlicher throwing a solid bullet. His method was to +creep right in amongst a herd and shoot the best bull through the heart. +This often did not kill it at once, and rendered him liable to be +charged suddenly by other members of the herd. Wherefore he rightly +estimates that his own form of hunting was the most dangerous of all +African hunting. When he got a double .450 high-velocity Rigby he killed +elephants much more easily and did not have nearly so many narrow +escapes. It therefore seems to be the case that, armed with modern +weapons, the hunter of elephants runs no especial risk if he does not +try in the first instance to get too close to his quarry and gives it a +side shot in the right place, whilst in the case of a charging animal +the lion is the easiest to stop and the elephant the easiest to turn and +the buffalo the hardest to kill. Yet if a quiet shot can be got at a +buffalo bull before he has seen the hunter there seems to be little if +any danger to the hunter. + +Men who have encountered thousands of buffalo have told us that they +have never seen an unwounded buffalo charge and that this only occurs +when the hunter suddenly meets one face to face in the bush. But even +this is not quite correct. + +Speaking of buffaloes and their aggressiveness, Selous says: "Although +many accidents happen in the pursuit of these animals, yet, in my +opinion, the danger incurred in hunting them is marvellously +exaggerated. Having shot nearly two hundred buffaloes to my own rifle, +and followed very many of them when wounded into very thick bush, I +think I have had sufficient experience to express an opinion on the +subject." He suggests that, in the majority of cases when disasters +occurred from a sudden attack, apparently without provocation, the +buffalo which charged had probably been wounded by another hunter, and +cites many instances to confirm this. Moreover, it may be added that +buffaloes in old age often become deaf and lie in the bush until +suddenly encountered by a man. Then a charge generally ensues because +the meeting was unexpected. + +Although Selous held that lions are the most dangerous of all opponents, +by his own accounts his escapes from infuriated buffaloes were quite as +numerous as those from the great cats. + +Whilst hunting on the Chobe in 1877 he knocked down a young bull from a +herd which gave him a very bad five minutes. As he was standing close to +the bull, which he saw was only stunned, it suddenly rose to its feet +and seemingly took no notice of a bullet fired point-blank into its +chest. Selous ran past the bull, which catching sight of some of the +Kafirs at once charged them, grunting furiously.[16] + + "I was now by my tree, watching events and putting another + cartridge into my rifle. The buffalo having missed my boys, who + had all climbed into or were standing behind trees, soon slowed + down to a trot, but was evidently still eager for revenge, as he + came round in a half-circle with nose upraised and horns laid + back. I was just going to fire at him, when he must have got my + wind, for he suddenly swung round and, seeing me, came on at a + gallop as hard as he could. He was about one hundred yards off + when he started, and when he was some sixty yards from me I + fired for his throat; but he neither stopped nor swerved nor + showed in any way that he was hit, but came straight on. I had + plenty of time, and could have swarmed up the branchless stem of + the sapling by which I was standing, and got out of his reach + with the greatest ease; but, as my legs were bare, I knew that + such a course meant the loss of a lot of skin, so I determined + to dodge him. I was young and active in those days, and full of + confidence in my nerve, so, holding the stem of the tree in my + left hand, I leant out as far as possible and awaited the onset. + When he was very near me--so close, indeed, as to preclude the + possibility of his being able to swerve and pass on the other + side of the tree--I pulled my body with a sudden jerk up to and + beyond the stem, and, shooting past the buffalo's hind-quarters, + ran as hard as ever I could to another tree standing in the + direction from which he had come. I knew that by this manoeuvre + I should gain a good deal of ground, as, even if my adversary + had followed me, the pace at which he was going was such that he + would not have been able to turn till he had got some way past + the tree where I had given him the slip. Had he come round after + me I should now have climbed for it; but, as I expected, when I + dodged from under his very nose and shot past behind him he lost + me entirely and ran straight on. He did not, however, go far, + but stopped and lay down, and I killed him with another bullet." + +Again on the Chobe in 1879 he wounded an old bull, which he followed +through open bush. The buffalo was, however, concealed as usual, and +charged suddenly at ten yards' distance. + +"I had no time to raise the rifle to my shoulder," he says, "but +swinging it round to my hips, just pulled the trigger, and at the same +time sprang to one side. At the same moment I was covered with a shower +of sand, and some part of the buffalo, nose or horn or shoulder, touched +my thigh with sufficient force to overthrow me, but without hurting me +in the least. I was on my feet again in a moment, ready to run for it, +but saw that my adversary was on the ground bellowing, with a hind-leg, +evidently broken, dragging out behind him. Before he recovered himself +I despatched him with a bullet through the lungs." + +In April, 1877, Selous again reached Tati and, after a visit to +Lobengula, at once trekked north to the Zambesi in the hope of securing +elephants. This time he was accompanied by Mr. Kingsley, an Englishman, +and Mr. Miller, a young colonist who was a first-rate shot. He had also +several native hunters in his service. However, the whole trip resulted, +as far as elephants were concerned, in a complete failure, only Miller +killing two male animals. At Gerva he met his old friends Dorehill and +Horner, who had both been seriously ill with fever, while his good +friend Lieutenant Grandy had died from the same cause. + +When Selous reached the Chobe he found that the elephants had all +disappeared, but does not state the cause, which I have since +ascertained was probably due to the great drives organized by Sepopo, +Chief of the Barotsi, in the triangle of the Chobe-Zambesi delta. +Apropos of this, my friend McLeod of McLeod gave me the following +account. In 1875 he, with Dorehill and W. Fairlie, trekked up from the +south and left their waggons at Pandamatenka on the Zambesi. Here they +crossed the river and went in on foot, intending to hunt in the Barotsi +country. After good sport with game, Sepopo received the party kindly +and invited them to a great elephant drive which annually took place in +September in the junction formed by the meeting of the Chobe and Zambesi +rivers. Many thousands of natives took part in this great hunt. A line +of fire enclosed the base of the triangle, into which several hundred +elephants had been driven, whilst some thousands of natives in canoes +lay in the rivers on each flank to cut off elephants and shoot and spear +them in the water as they broke out. When all was in readiness the lines +from the base fires advanced and the elephants began to break back and +the shooting began. "Such a fusillade," remarked McLeod, "more resembled +a battle than a hunt; the firing was of the wildest description, and so +inaccurate that we were in constant danger of losing our lives. At the +end of the day only nine elephants were killed by our party and the +natives round us, whilst the majority broke through our cordon and that +of the fire behind and escaped. A considerable number, however, were +speared and shot on the rivers on each flank. Several men were killed +and wounded in the attack." + +The following year (1876) another great hunt of similar character took +place, and late in the season Sepopo was assassinated and the whole +country thrown into a state of anarchy. + +These great hunts, scaring the elephants out of the whole district, +would account for Selous' bad luck in 1877, but he seemed to have +enjoyed himself hunting buffalo, of which he killed no fewer than +forty-five in four months on the Chobe. He states that he experienced a +few dangers and one rather narrow escape. + +Selous, although he did not consider the buffalo so dangerous an +antagonist as the lion, had his full share of adventures with them. His +escape from an old bull which killed his horse under him, on the Nata +river in May, 1874, was almost miraculous, for a buffalo seldom leaves +his victim once he has got him down. + +He found two old buffalo bulls and galloped within three yards of them, +and the rifle missed fire. After another chase one of the bulls, getting +annoyed, stood and offered a good shot, and the cap again played the +hunter false.[17] + + "Putting on a third cap, I now kept it down with my thumb, and + was soon once more close behind him, and had galloped for + perhaps a couple of minutes more, when, entering a patch of + short thick mopani bush, he stopped suddenly, wheeled round, and + came on at once, as soon as he caught sight of the horse, with + his nose stretched straight out and horns laid back, uttering + the short grunts with which these animals invariably accompany a + charge. + + "There was no time to be lost, as I was not more than forty + yards from him; so, reining in with a jerk and turning the horse + at the same instant broadside on, I raised my gun, intending to + put a ball, if possible, just between his neck and shoulder, + which, could I have done so, would either have knocked him + down, or at any rate made him swerve, but my horse, instead of + standing steady as he had always done before, now commenced + walking forward, though he did not appear to take any notice of + the buffalo. There was no time to put my hand down and give + another wrench on the bridle (which I had let fall on the + horse's neck), and for the life of me I could not get a sight + with the horse in motion. A charging buffalo does not take many + seconds to cover forty yards, and in another instant his + outstretched nose was within six feet of me, so, lowering the + gun from my shoulder, I pulled it off right in his face, at the + same time digging the spurs deep into my horse's sides. But it + was too late, for even as he sprang forward the old bull caught + him full in the flank, pitching him, with me on his back, into + the air like a dog. The recoil of the heavily-charged + elephant-gun with which I was unluckily shooting, twisted it + clean out of my hands, so that we all, horse, gun, and man, fell + in different directions. My horse regained its feet and galloped + away immediately, but even with a momentary glance I saw that + the poor brute's entrails were protruding in a dreadful manner. + The buffalo, on tossing the horse, had stopped dead, and now + stood with his head lowered within a few feet of me. I had + fallen in a sitting position, and facing my unpleasant-looking + adversary. I could see no wound on him, so must have missed, + though I can scarcely understand how, as he was so very close + when I fired. + + "However, I had not much time for speculation, for the old + brute, after glaring at me a few seconds with his + sinister-looking bloodshot eyes, finally made up his mind and, + with a grunt, rushed at me. I threw my body out flat along the + ground to one side, and just avoided the upward thrust of his + horn, receiving, however, a severe blow on the left shoulder + with the round part of it, nearly dislocating my right arm with + the force with which my elbow was driven against the ground, and + receiving also a kick on the instep from one of his feet. + Luckily for me, he did not turn again, as he most certainly + would have done had he been wounded, but galloped clean away. + + "The first thing to be done was to look after my horse, and at + about 150 yards from where he had been tossed I found him. The + buffalo had struck him full in the left thigh; it was an awful + wound, and, as the poor beast was evidently in the last + extremity, I hastily loaded my gun and put him out of his + misery. My Kafirs coming up just then, I started with them, + eager for vengeance, in pursuit of the buffalo, but was + compelled finally to abandon the chase, leaving my poor horse + unavenged." + +Curiously enough, McLeod met with an almost identical accident on the +Nata in 1875. The buffalo struck the horse behind in his charge, and +horse, rifle, and rider were all thrown to the ground. Although McLeod +was lying helpless, the buffalo confined its fury to the horse and +struck it with his horns till life was extinct. Then, without looking at +McLeod, who had been thrown into a thorn-bush, it galloped away. + +Selous gives several instances of the tenacity of life and viciousness +retained to the last moment of the buffalo.[18] + + "Once, in 1874, when hunting with George Wood near the Chobe, we + came upon an old buffalo bull lying down in some long grass. My + friend gave him a bullet as he lay, upon which he jumped up and + stood behind some mopani trees, only exposing his head and + hind-quarters on either side their stems. After eyeing us for a + few seconds he turned and went off at a gallop, but before he + had gone many yards, Wood fired at him with his second gun and + knocked him over; he was on his legs again in a moment, and, + wheeling round, came straight towards me at a heavy gallop, his + nose stretched straight out and grunting furiously. When he was + about twenty yards from me I fired with my large four-bore + elephant-gun and struck him fair in the chest. This staggered + but did not stop him, for, swerving slightly, he made straight + for the Kafir carrying my second gun; this the man at once threw + down and commenced climbing a tree. The buffalo just brought his + right horn past the tree, and scraping it up the trunk so as to + send all the loose pieces of bark flying, caught the Kafir a + severe blow on the inside of the knee, nearly knocking him out + of the tree. The sturdy beast then ran about twenty yards + farther, knelt gently down and, stretching forth its nose, + commenced to bellow, as these animals almost always do when + dying; in a few minutes it was lying dead." + +Buffaloes wounded by man or lions are always dangerous. + + "One cold winter morning in 1873, I left my camp before sunrise, + and had not walked a quarter of a mile skirting round the base + of a low hill, when, close to the same path I was following, and + not twenty yards off, I saw an old buffalo bull lying under a + bush. He was lying head on towards us, but did not appear to + notice us. My gun-carriers were behind, having lingered, + Kafir-like, over the camp-fire, but had they been nearer me I + should not have fired for fear of disturbing elephants, of which + animals I was in search. + + "As I stood looking at the buffalo, Minyama, one of my Kafirs, + threw an assegai at it from behind me, which, grazing its side, + just stuck in the skin on the inside of its thigh. Without more + ado, the ugly-looking old beast jumped up and came trotting out, + with head up and nose extended, evidently looking for the + disturbers of its peace, and as Minyama was hiding behind the + trunk of a large tree, and the rest of the Kafirs had made + themselves scarce, it at once came straight at me, grunting + furiously. I was standing close to a very small tree, not more + than six inches in diameter, but as I was unarmed, and to run + would have been useless, I swarmed up it with marvellous + celerity. The buffalo just came up and looked at me, holding his + nose close to my feet, and grunting all the time. He then turned + and went off at a lumbering canter, and I then, for the first + time, saw that he had been terribly torn and scratched on the + hind-quarters and shoulders by lions. Had he tried to knock my + little sapling down, he might, I think, easily have accomplished + it; as it was, my legs being bare, and the bark of the tree very + rough, I had rubbed a lot of skin off the insides of my knees + and the calves of my legs."[19] + +Buffaloes, if the ground is hard, can go at a great pace and can outrun +a horse for some distance. It once took me a chase of five miles before +I got up with a big bull on whose head I had set my desires. "In 1873," +writes Selous, "a buffalo cow, although severely wounded, ran down in +the open a horse Lobengula had lent me, and on which my Hottentot driver +was mounted; she struck the horse as it was going at full speed between +the thighs with her nose, and, luckily striking short, knocked it over +on one side and sent its rider flying, but before she could do further +damage a bullet through her shoulders from George Wood incapacitated her +for further mischief." + +He seems to have been much depressed at this time as to his prospects of +making a living--at any rate as an elephant-hunter and trader. +"Nothing[20] has gone right with me since I left England, nor do I think +it ever will again. I was born under an unlucky star, for even if I do +not suffer from personal and particular bad fortune, I seem just to hit +off the particular year and the particular part of the country for my +speculation when and where everything has gone to rack and ruin. Had I +left England in October, 1875, instead of February, 1876, I should in +all human probability have done fairly well, and been able to return to +England at the beginning of the next year (1878), for last year 40,000 +lbs. of ivory were traded at the Zambesi alone, and every hunter did +well. This year, owing principally to Sepopo's assassination, only 2500 +lbs. have been traded, and not a hunter has earned his salt. But, mind +you, I do not yet despair; I am still well to the good, and, if I can +only get to a country which is not worked out, I will soon get a few +pounds together." Later the same year he writes to his father (October +17th, 1877): "On this side of the river elephant-hunting is at an end, +all the elephants being either killed or driven away. I am now going to +try and go down the Zambesi to Tete--a Portuguese settlement, and from +there to the new missionary settlement at Lake Nyassa." + +[Illustration: ELEPHANTS] + +After returning to Pandamatenka in 1877, Selous went down the Zambesi +with a Mr. Owen and with donkeys, bent on trading and hunting in the +"fly" north of the river. Eight days later he crossed at Wankie's +Town and reached Mwemba's kraal--that chief being an important local +chief of the Batongas. Mwemba was much pleased to see the travellers, as +he stated they were the first white men he had ever met. The donkeys, +too, were new beasts to him. + +We need scarcely follow Selous' wanderings in the pestilential climate +of the Zambesi valley during the next few months. He was completely +disappointed in finding elephants, and both he and his companion +suffered severely from fever in the deadly climate. All down the river +he had daily evidence of the evil doings of the Portuguese, who employed +the Shakundas to capture and enslave Batongan girls for their use and +subsequent trade in human flesh. The price paid for a girl was usually +an old musket or about twenty rupees. Near the mouth of the Kafukwe the +travellers met Canyemba and Mendonca, head chiefs of the Shakundas, who +appeared to be a proper pair of scoundrels, but small-pox was raging +here, so Selous and Owen did not stay for long, but went north into the +Manica country on December 13th. Hence they got up to the high country +and shot a little game, including some konze (Liechtenstein's +hartebeest), the first Selous had seen. + +On January 6th they reached the kraal of Sitanda, head chief of the +Manica country. "We found the old fellow a slight-built old Kafir, with +an astute thin-featured face, sitting outside his hut with about a dozen +cronies. When his people first come up to him to report any news, they +roll on their backs in the dust before him, and subsequently, when +talking to him, lie down on their sides and rub one shoulder in the dust +at the conclusion of every sentence." + +The Kafukwe country looking unpromising for elephants, Selous then +resolved to go north to the Mashukulumbwe country, but this was +prevented by the breakdown of Owen, who became seriously ill with fever. +A few days later, after hunting lechwes in a swamp, Selous himself +became ill, and for a fortnight both the travellers experienced all the +trials of malarial fever. Sitanda was of course delighted, and hoped +they would soon die and he could annex all their trade goods. He, in +fact, refused them all help in the way of food and porters in the +manner usual to a savage who thinks he has white men in his power. The +chief had given orders to all his people not to help the unfortunate +invalids, no matter what payment was offered. Finally, poor Selous was +reduced to "buying," for 320 loaded cartridges, one Kafir boy from a +Portuguese. "The Portuguese told me I must watch him well in the +daytime, and tie him up at night; however, I explained to him, through +one of my boys, that, although I had bought him, I did not want to keep +him for a slave, and that if he would carry for me as far as the +Zambesi, he might go where he liked afterwards, or continue working with +me for wages." + +On January 24th Selous and Owen left this "accursed spot where we had +spent eighteen miserable days." Ill and weak they staggered south, and +five days later "the slave" ran away with a valuable breechloading +elephant-gun. This, however, was recovered, but not the whole stock of +Martini-Henry cartridges and corn which was essential to existence. + +Thoroughly worn out, they reached the Zambesi at last on February 18th. +No game had fallen to their rifles, as both were too ill to hunt. + +After getting more provisions and carriers from Mendonca the party +struck south, but after April 1st Owen was so weak that he had to be +carried. Selous, however, improved a little when he reached the +healthier country, but was still weak and unsuccessful in what little +hunting he did. Moreover, the Banyais carrying Owen struck work, so +Selous decided to leave him in charge of his faithful Basuto servant +Franz and himself to push on to the waggons at Inyati and to send back +help to his friend. On April 17th, he bade good-bye to Owen, and reached +Inyati on May 4th, sending seven men to the Gweo, where Owen rested, and +they eventually brought him out safely to the Matabele country. + +After this unfortunate trip Selous was much depressed in mind, feeling +that the whole country south of the Zambesi was played out for the +trader and the hunter. Writing to his mother from Tati (May 28th, 1878), +he expresses all his gloomy anticipations--doubtless the after effects +of fever from which he had not yet recovered. "I am afraid that if I +ever get home again you will find me much changed for the worse in +temper and disposition. Continual never-ending misfortune in small +matters and the failure of every speculation has changed me from a +tolerably light-hearted fellow into a morose sad-tempered man. It is all +very well to say that one can but do his best and that sort of thing, +but in this world a man's merit and worth are measured solely according +to his success and by no other standard. During the last year almost +everybody has been ruined, and all the smaller traders sold up. Next +year I am going to try a new country to the north of Ovampoland in +Southwestern Africa. Things cannot be worse there than they are here, +and from all I can learn probably much better. If there is nothing to be +done there, I am sure I don't know what I shall do, but think of trying +the Western States of North America. To try farming in this country with +the luck against one would never do, for there is not one but twenty +diseases to which all sorts of live stock are subject; all of them +unknown in America and Australia." + +Selous was far from well after this trying trip, and it took him two +months to recover from its effects, so it was not till August that he +set off again, after getting permission from Lobengula, to hunt in the +Mashuna country, where he hoped to join his friends Clarkson, Cross, and +Wood, who had gone north in the previous June. + +On August 20th he left Inyati, in company with Mr. Goulden (Clarkson's +partner), and trekked north. On the 30th he reached the Gwenia, where he +found the old Boer hunter Jan Viljoen and his family. Here he had some +sport with sable antelopes, and moved on the next day and reached the +Umniati on September 6th, and on September 8th the Gwazan, where he shot +a bull sable. After crossing the Sweswe, where he found the Neros, +well-known Griqua elephant-hunters, he heard that his friends were on +the Umfule river, two days north. Here he learnt that Clarkson and Wood +had killed eight bull elephants in one day, September 8th; so was +anxious to join them as soon as possible after this exciting piece of +news. + +On reaching the encampment of his friends he heard they were away on the +Hanyane river, so he at once decided to follow them. Next day Selous +killed a sable bull and met his friends close to the scene of the +elephant slaughter of the previous Sunday. Clarkson and Wood had already +killed forty elephants, and had to record the death of Quabeet, Wood's +head Kafir, by a tuskless bull elephant. Selous gives some particulars +of this unhappy event in a letter to his mother (December 25th, 1878): +"Mr. Clarkson came across a troop of elephants and commenced shooting at +them. Whilst killing one he heard another screaming terrifically, and +galloped in that direction but saw nothing. In the evening Quabeet was +missing, but no one thought anything could have happened to him except +that he had lost himself. On the second day, however, as he did not turn +up, Clarkson bethought him of the continuous screaming he had heard, and +remembered to have seen a gigantic tuskless bull turn out by himself, +whose spoor he resolved to follow the next morning. This he did, and +soon found the place where the elephant had chased a man; there he found +Quabeet's gun, and near it the odds and ends of skin he had worn round +his waist and finally what remained of Quabeet. The poor fellow had been +torn into three pieces. The elephant must have held him down with his +foot and then torn him asunder with his trunk." + +On September 14th the party found a herd of cow elephants and shot six, +and on September 17th they all went north-east to the mahobo-hobo +forests which lie between the Umsengasi and Hanyane rivers to look for +elephants. The same evening they found two old bulls near the Umbila +river. Selous quickly killed three bulls and a cow. "The fourth I +tackled," he says, "cost me six bullets and gave me a smart chase, for +my horse was now dead beat. I only got away at all by the skin of my +teeth as, although the infuriated animal whilst charging trumpeted all +the time like a railway engine, I could not get my tired horse out of a +canter until he was close upon me, and I firmly believe that had he not +been so badly wounded he would have caught me. I know the shrill +screaming sounded unpleasantly near." + +Immediately after this episode the herd of elephants showed signs of +exhaustion. "The poor animals were now completely knocked up, throwing +water (taken from their stomachs) over their heated bodies as they +walked slowly along." But the hunters stuck to them until their +cartridges were exhausted; all, that is to say, except Selous, who had +still thirteen left. + +Selous then selected a big cow for his next victim, and experienced one +of the narrowest escapes of his whole adventurous life.[21] + + "Having picked out a good cow for my fifth victim, I gave her a + shot behind the shoulder, on which she turned from the herd and + walked slowly away by herself. As I cantered up behind her, she + wheeled round and stood facing me, with her ears spread and her + head raised. My horse was now so tired that he stood well, so, + reining in, I gave her a shot from his back between the neck and + the shoulder, which I believe just stopped her from charging. On + receiving this wound she backed a few paces, gave her ears a + flap against her sides, and then stood facing me again. I had + just taken out the empty cartridge and was about to put a fresh + one in, when, seeing that she looked very vicious, and as I was + not thirty yards from her, I caught the bridle and turned the + horse's head away, so as to be ready for a fair start in case of + a charge. I was still holding my rifle with the breech open when + I saw that she was coming. Digging the spurs into my horse's + ribs, I did my best to get him away, but he was so thoroughly + done that, instead of springing forwards, which was what the + emergency required, he only started at a walk and was just + breaking into a canter when the elephant was upon us. I heard + two short sharp screams above my head, and had just time to + think it was all over with me, when, horse and all, I was dashed + to the ground. For a few seconds I was half-stunned by the + violence of the shock, and the first thing I became aware of was + a very strong smell of elephant. At the same instant I felt that + I was still unhurt and that, although in an unpleasant + predicament, I had still a chance for life. I was, however, + pressed down on the ground in such a way that I could not + extricate my head. At last with a violent effort I wrenched + myself loose, and threw my body over sideways, so that I rested + on my hands. As I did so I saw the hind legs of the elephant + standing like two pillars before me, and at once grasped the + situation. She was on her knees, with her head and tusks in the + ground, and I had been pressed down under her chest, but luckily + behind her forelegs. Dragging myself from under her, I regained + my feet and made a hasty retreat, having had rather more than + enough of elephants for the time being. I retained, however, + sufficient presence of mind to run slowly, watching her + movements over my shoulder and directing mine accordingly. + Almost immediately I had made my escape she got up and stood + looking for me, with her ears up and head raised, turning first + to one side and then to the other, but never quite wheeling + round. As she made these turns, I ran obliquely to the right or + left, as the case might be, always endeavouring to keep her + stern towards me. At length I gained the shelter of a small bush + and breathed freely once more." + +After a time he recovered his rifle and again attacked a cow which he +thought was his late assailant, and killed her with two more shots, but +she proved to be a different beast. + +Selous did not escape quite scatheless from this encounter, for his eye +was badly bruised and the skin all rubbed off the right breast. His +horse, too, was badly injured, though he recovered after two months. +Altogether, on this great and exciting day, no fewer than twenty-two +elephants, realizing 700 lbs. of ivory, were killed by Selous, Clarkson, +and Wood. + +On September 24th the hunters killed five old bull elephants near the +Hanyane, and shortly afterwards, elephants becoming shy, the party broke +up, Cross, Goulden, and Wood going to the Umfule, and Clarkson and +Selous remaining near the Hanyane. Both parties were, however, quite +unsuccessful in hunting bull elephants, either in the neighbourhood of +these rivers or in short trips they made into the "fly" region along the +Umniati, Sebakwe, and Se-quoi-quoi rivers. + +After enjoying some sport with the various large antelopes and +witnessing an exciting chase and attack made by a single hunting-dog on +a sable antelope, the party turned northwards and reached Gwenia, where +the Viljoens were camped, on December 11th, just as the heavy rains set +in. + +Here Selous had a piece of good luck. A lioness attacked the Viljoens' +cattle at ten o'clock one morning and went off with a calf. The dogs, +however, were at once loosed, and soon brought the marauder to bay. +Jantje, a Hottentot, and one of the Viljoens' Kafirs ran at once to the +scene of tumult, when both of them fired and missed, but Selous got an +easy chance at forty yards, and killed her with a bullet through the +shoulders. On December 25th he wrote to his mother telling her that his +plans for the following year were uncertain. He hoped to go "to the +country north of Lake Ngami, but may spend the winter with the +Volunteers against the Zulus if the war comes on." + +FOOTNOTES: + +[15] "A Hunter's Wanderings," pp. 244-245. + +[16] "A Hunter's Wanderings," pp. 433-434. + +[17] "A Hunter's Wanderings," pp. 279-281. + +[18] "A Hunter's Wanderings," pp. 282-283. + +[19] "A Hunter's Wanderings," p. 283. + +[20] Letter to his mother. + +[21] "A Hunter's Wanderings," pp. 339-340. + + + + +CHAPTER V +1879-1880 + + +Like all big game hunters Selous always dreamed of a land teaming with +game where other hunters had not been and scared the game away. He saw +by this time that the old hunting-grounds, at least as far as elephants +were concerned, were finished, and that he must find for himself a new +field to exploit if such a place existed. The difficulties, however, +even to such a man as himself, were immense, because the "fly" debarred +him to the east and north, whilst to the west was nothing but a +waterless desert where no elephants could live. If therefore he was to +find the virgin country it must be far to the north where he could not +take his waggons. The country on which he had set his heart was the +Mashukulumbwe, and though no hunters had been there, he heard from +natives that it was full of elephants. In 1877 he had tried to reach it, +but owing to the hostility of the Portuguese and local chiefs beyond the +Zambesi, and the subsequent illness of himself and his friend, he had +been obliged to abandon the venture. Now, however, in 1879, he conceived +a plan to cross the desert to Bamangwato, when he hoped to kill +gemsbuck, which had so far eluded him, and to hunt on the Chobe, which +always held a peculiar attraction for him, then to leave his waggons and +visit the unknown portions of the Barotsi country and strike east to the +Mashukulumbwe. He expected that this journey would extend over two or +three years, so in January he trekked south to Klerksdorp in the +Transvaal, where he laid in stores and ammunition for the long trip. + +On April 14th he reached Bamangwato and obtained permission from Khama +to travel through the Kalahari to the Mababe river. This time young +Miller again accompanied him as well as another young colonist of +German extraction named Sell. Khama sent with Selous a grumpy +disagreeable old Kafir named Ai-eetsee-upee (the man who knows nothing) +to look after the waggons. Five other coloured men completed the party. + +On May 4th they reached the Botletlie river. "This," says Selous, "is +one of the most abominable spots I have yet visited: one small mud hole +from which a little filthy water was all we could get for ourselves or +the oxen, yet on the map this river looks like a young Mississippi." + +On May 8th to the west of the Botletlie, Selous reached an encampment of +bushmen, who told him there were giraffes in the bush close at hand. An +old bull was soon found. "I gave the giraffe four shots," says Selous, +"and then, seeing that he was done for, galloped round him, upon which +he stood reeling under a tree, and I was just pulling my horse in, when +a lion, a lioness, and two half-grown cubs jumped out of the bushes just +in front of me and trotted slowly away. Just at this moment, too, I saw +four stately giraffe cows walk out of the bush in single file about 500 +yards ahead. The lion, after trotting a few paces, turned round and +stood, broadside on, looking at me, offering a splendid shot. I was on +the ground in a moment and gave him a bullet just behind the shoulder. +With a growl he galloped away for about 100 yards, and then rolled over +on his side, stone dead. I just rode up to assure myself of the fact, +and then galloped on after the giraffe cows." Two of these he also +killed. + +On May 10th he saw the first gemsbuck, "the antelope of all others of +which I longed to shoot a fine specimen," but after wounding one he lost +it. Next day, however, he killed a young cow. + +On May 28th they reached the so-called "fountain" of Sode-Garra, where +the bushmen told him that the country to the north was impassable owing +to no rain falling the previous summer. Never having known the untutored +savage to tell the truth Selous imagined that the bushmen were lying, +and so decided to risk it and trek on. The poor oxen then had a terrible +time; they got no water for two days and nights except a little +moisture at one spot. On the fourth day they reached the sand-belts and +pans just south of the Mababe flats, and still there was not a drop of +water. It was here two years previously the famous Boer elephant-hunter +Martinus Swartz and ten members of his family died of fever, only six +individuals surviving out of a party of seventeen. + +At these dried-up pans, however, Selous found some comparatively fresh +spoor of buffalo and that meant there must be water at no very great +distance. Accordingly, he abandoned the waggons and accompanied by +bullocks, horses, dogs and Kafirs went north to the great plain known as +the Mababe flat. Here they saw grass fires at a distance of about twelve +miles, but the presence of numerous zebras indicated that there was +water still nearer. Old Jacob, one of his Kafirs, now said there was a +small vley close at hand. "We went to look," writes Selous, "and five +minutes later found a long shallow vley full of water. I could have +hugged the dirty old man with delight. What a sight it was to see the +poor thirsty oxen come trotting down to the pan, as soon as they smelt +the longed-for water, and rush knee-deep into it! What a sudden relief +the sight of that pool of muddy water was, too, and what a weight of +fear and anxiety it lifted from our hearts! Only an hour before it had +seemed that I was doomed to lose all my live stock--nearly everything I +possessed in the world--from thirst; and now the danger was past, and +not a single ox had given in." Next day the oxen were sent back and +brought the waggons to the vley. + +On June 4th he encountered three lionesses, at one of which he had a +running shot which knocked her over. Soon a second lioness stood and +turned to bay, and Selous killed her dead with a shot in the head just +as she was on the point of charging. He then returned to the first +wounded animal and gave her a shot through the lungs. Two days later +whilst stalking giraffes he met two full-grown lions lying under a +bush.[22] + + "I now turned my attention to the second lion. As, owing to the + grass, I could not see him clearly, I mounted my horse and gave + him a shot from the saddle, as he lay half-facing me, gazing + towards me with anything but a pleasant expression of + countenance. Whether he realized the misfortune which had + befallen his comrade or not I cannot say, but he certainly had + an angry, put-out sort of look. As I fired, a loud roar + announced that the bullet had struck him, and I could see that + he was hard hit. He now sat on his haunches like a dog, holding + his head low, and growling savagely. In this position he exposed + his chest, so hastily pushing in another cartridge, I jumped to + the ground before he could make up his mind what to do, and + firing quickly, struck him in the centre of the breast, just + under the chin. This rolled him over, and riding up, I saw that + he was in his last agonies, so left him, and took a look at the + first I had shot, a magnificent old lion with a fine black mane, + and a skin in beautiful condition, and of a very dark colour all + over. All this, which has taken so long to relate, must have + occupied less than a minute of time, and the lions being both + dead, I again turned my attention to the giraffes." + +Two of these, a bull and a cow, he chased and killed. + +A few days later Selous' friend, H. C. Collison, arrived in his camp. +Collison, with French, had also trekked north across the thirst-land, +and lost several of their oxen on the way. Moreover, to add to these +disasters, Clarkson, an intimate friend of all three, had been struck by +lightning and killed near Klerksdorp shortly after their departure for +the interior. Speaking of Clarkson, to whom he was much attached, Selous +says: "A better fellow never stepped. Short of stature, but very strong +and active, he was, like most colonists, a capital shot and first-rate +rough-rider, qualities that could hardly fail to make him a successful +hunter. Morally speaking, too, he was upright and honourable in his +dealings with his fellow-men, cool in danger, and as plucky as a +bull-dog. May his spirit find a good hunting-country in the next world!" + +A few days later Collison, French and Selous established a permanent +hunting-camp on the Mababe river and went north on foot into the "fly." +Owing to the size of the party they soon separated, French and Miller +going to the Sunta river, whilst Collison, Sell and Selous went on up +the Machabe, but afterwards they met on the Chobe. Miller and Selous +then passed on to Linyanti, where they killed four elephants, many +buffaloes, and several of the small spotted and striped bushbucks +peculiar to the Chobe. Here Selous tried unsuccessfully to kill a +specimen of the sitatunga antelope by hunting in a canoe at dawn amongst +the reed beds, but only saw one female, although he found lying dead a +fine male killed by a rival. + +On August 23rd Selous obtained permission to hunt elephants in the angle +of the Chobe and the Zambesi from the Barotsi chief Mamele. After a +visit to the waggons to get stores and ammunition he returned to the +Chobe angle with French and Miller. Close to Mamele's town the party met +four lionesses, one of which Selous shot. Buffaloes at this time were in +immense herds feeding out in the open all day, even amongst the native +cattle, and Selous shot several to provide meat for the Kafirs. + +It was not until September 24th that the party found any elephants, and +then Selous and Miller killed a young bull, four large cows and a +heifer. Poor French on this day wounded and lost a cow, and contrary to +advice, followed it into the bush. He was never seen again, and died of +thirst in the bush. For days Miller and Selous tried to find his tracks, +but without avail. The loss of his good friend made a deep impression on +Selous, and for years afterwards he never spoke of French, to whom he +was greatly attached, without showing signs of emotion. To have lost two +of his best friends in one year depressed him greatly, and to this were +added constant attacks of malarial fever which made him very weak. + +However, at the time he always hoped that French might have reached some +place of safety on the river and be alive. So Selous continued to hunt +for elephants until one day "Boy," French's gun-bearer, crawled into +camp and gave an account of his master's death. It appeared that after +hunting for days in the bush in the wrong direction poor French +collapsed, and as he was dying wrote on his rifle the words "I cannot go +any further; when I die, peace with all." French's two boys, "Boy" and +"Nangora," then walked all night and struck the river at Linyanti. "For +several nights," says Selous, "I never slept, as the vision of my lost +friend wandering about and dying by inches continually haunted me." + +Seriously ill as he was, Selous then went to Linyanti, hoping to recover +the body of his friend and give it decent burial, and Mamele promised to +send all his people out to look for it when the rains came, but it was +never found. Selous himself was so depressed in mind and worn with fever +that he did not care to hunt any longer on the Chobe, so made for his +waggons, which he reached on October 11th, where he found Sell +dangerously ill. Miller, too, was attacked with malaria but soon +recovered. + +It was now necessary to wait for the rains, but as they did not come +Selous, tired of shooting wildebeest and zebra on the Mababe flats, once +more returned to the Chobe to look for elephants. He went as far as +Maimi's town, and as the rain was now threatening he retraced his steps. +By the middle of November he again reached the waggons, and the much +desired rains at last fell. The party got to the Botletlie with ease, +but between that river and Bamangwato the oxen again suffered terribly +and were nearly lost owing to thirst. Later, in December, Selous reached +the Diamond Fields, and was there attacked by a low fever which nearly +cost him his life; in fact, nothing but the unremitting attention and +care of his friends, Mrs. Frederick Barber and her daughter, Mrs. +Alexander Baillie, rescued him from death. + +Meanwhile, owing to political blunders, South Africa and all its white +and black races were in a ferment, and the Zulu War in full progress. +The usual cause of England's wars with savages was acts of rapine or +insolence on the part of natives living in wild country where the black +or red man predominated in numbers and a small white population was +threatened with danger. No such reason, however, was the cause of the +Zulu war in 1879. Since 1861 the Natal colonists had lived alongside +the Zulus in perfect amity, and the colonists "felt no real alarm +concerning the Zulus until the idea was suggested to them by those in +authority over them."[23] + +The real cause, apart from the fact that the Natal farmers were annoyed +that at their side dwelt a great black population they could neither tax +nor force to work for them, was the aggression of the Transvaal Boers in +a small portion of territory owned by Cetawayo, the Zulu king, and lying +on the Transvaal border. There were two disputed boundary lines. The one +between Zululand and the Transvaal to the south of the Pongolo river, +and the other between the Zulus and the Swazis, to the north of and +parallel with the Pongolo river. + +The Swazis had always been hereditary enemies of the Zulus, and there +was bitter feeling between the two races. Nevertheless the real cause of +both disputes was the acquisitiveness of the Boers. In the case of the +territory on the second boundary line they professed to have obtained by +cession from the Swazi king in 1855 a strip of land to the north-east of +the Pongolo river, so as to form a barrier between the Swazis and the +Zulus; but the Swazis denied having ever made such a cession. It is +doubtful, however, whether the Swazis had any power to have made such a +contract, even if it had been made, because the territory in question +was occupied until 1846 by two Zulu chiefs, Puttini and Langalibalele. +These chiefs, however, had been driven out of Zululand by Umpande +(Panda), then king of the Zulus. + +As time went on efforts were made to induce Cetawayo to allow the +boundary territory to be occupied by the Boers, but the king sagely +replied that as we had suggested that this territory belonged to +Zululand, and he wished it for his own people, he did not see how it +could belong to two parties. A boundary commission was, however, +eventually formed, and asserted that neither party had a claim to the +whole, whilst distinctly stating that no cession of land had been made +by the Zulu king past or present. + +Other minor causes of the Zulu war were the raids of Umbilini, a Swazi +chieftain living under Cetawayo's protection, and the forcible capture +in Natal of Zulu brides and girls who had run away to escape +disagreeable marriages. + +On December 11th, 1878, the Zulus were presented with an ultimatum, of +which the demand for the disbandment of the Zulu army was the principal +clause. Cetawayo agreed to some of the demands but asked for time to +consult his Indunas as regards demobilization. This was, however, +refused. It would appear that even Cetawayo was anxious to avoid war if +possible, for at his side stood John Dunn, who well knew the power of +England. Lord Chelmsford had, however, completed his preparations for +war, and on January 12th crossed the border into Zululand. Then followed +the disaster of Isandlwana, the splendid defence of Rorke's Drift, the +battle of Ngingindhlovu, in which the Zulus lost heavily, and in July +the great battle of Ulundi, which finally broke the Zulu forces. + +Selous always enjoyed meeting people who had taken part in events in the +recent history of South Africa, and one day he met at my house General +Sir Edward Hutton, who told us the following story of the capture of +Cetawayo. + + "After the defeat of the Zulus at Ulundi," remarked Sir Edward, + "they scattered in all directions and we sent out small patrols + throughout the country to search for the king. On this occasion + the Zulus behaved in the most magnanimous manner. Although they + could with ease have annihilated the majority of these patrols, + not one was attacked, for they felt that the supreme test had + been passed and their army utterly defeated. I believe that one + day after the battle of Ulundi it would have been safe for an + English lady to have walked across Zululand unmolested, so noble + was the behaviour of the natives. I was attached to a patrol + under Major Marter, K.D.G., and we came up with the king at + Nisaka's kraal in the Ngome Forest. + + "Cetawayo was seated in a hut attended by two of his chief + wives. Marter entered the hut with myself and explained to the + king that his presence was required by Sir Garnet Wolseley, and + that he must come at once. Cetawayo promptly refused. Marter + took out his watch and stated that he would give him five + minutes to decide. The black monarch still refused to move. 'I + will now give you five minutes more,' said Marter, 'and then if + you are still obstinate I shall set fire to the hut.' + + "The King remained obdurate. Then Marter drew from his pocket a + box of matches, and I still seem to see clearly the expression + on Cetawayo's face as he listened to the scraping of the match + on the box. Cetawayo, who was an immense man, and at the moment + perfectly naked, then rose with great dignity and stalked out of + the hut. Here he threw a large kaross over his shoulder and + stood there looking every inch a king. + + "'Where are you taking me?' he observed. + + "'That I cannot tell you,' replied Marter. + + "'Well, I refuse to go,' came the answer. + + "The King was then seized by soldiers and put upon a litter and + thus carried with his wives to a waggon which was awaiting." + +Selous was much interested in this story, and then told us the following +interesting tale which I never heard him repeat before or later. It has +always been a puzzle to me how he knew Cetawayo, for after many +enquiries amongst his family and friends I have been unable to learn +when he visited Zululand, for otherwise he could not have known the Zulu +king. Yet the fact remains that he distinctly said on this occasion that +he had met the black monarch in some of his past wanderings. + + "I had known Cetawayo formerly, and when he was confined in + Robben Island shortly after the conclusion of the war, I thought + I would go down one day when I was in Cape Town and have a chat + with him. I found him much as I had known him, but more + corpulent and somewhat depressed. After some general + conversation I said: + + "'Well, Cetawayo, what do you think of John Dunn now?' + + "This I knew was a sore point with the king, for he had treated + John Dunn like a brother and given him wives, slaves and lands + as one of his own head indunas. Dunn had afterwards deserted + him and given all his help and information to Sir Garnet + Wolseley. + + "Cetawayo thought deeply for a few moments, and then said, 'One + very cold and stormy night in winter I was seated before a large + fire in my hut when there was a noise without as if someone was + arriving. I asked the cause from my attendants, and they told me + a white man in a miserable state of destitution had just arrived + and claimed my hospitality. I ordered the slaves to bring him + in, and a tall splendidly made man appeared. He was dressed in + rags, for his clothes had been torn to pieces in fighting + through the bush, and he was shivering from fever and ague. I + drew my cloak aside and asked him to sit by the fire, and told + the servants to bring food and clothing. I loved this white man + as a brother and made him one of my head indunas, giving him + lands and wives, the daughters of my chiefs. _Now Shaunele_ + (_the sun has gone down_), _and John Dunn is sitting by the fire + but he does not draw his cloak aside._'" + +Such is the black man's reasoning, and can we controvert it with +uplifted heads? + +After the Zulu war McLeod asked some of the chiefs why they went to war +with us. They replied, "The Right of the Strong. Now you have proved you +are the strongest we will look up to you and follow you." Except for one +trifling insurrection under Denizulu, which was quickly nipped in the +bud, the Zulus have since accepted our suzerainty. + +The following example of the intellect and common-sense of the South +African native is given to me by McLeod of McLeod, who was in charge of +the Swazis both in the Zulu war and the subsequent attack on Sekukuni, +the paramount chief of Basutoland. + +McLeod called upon Ubandini, the Swazi king, to raise some 8000 levies. +This army was then about to set out for Basutoland, there to join our +forces under Sir Garnet Wolseley. The following conversation took +place:-- + +McL. "It is agreed that your people may have all the cattle they can +capture, but the English Government insists that on no account are your +men to injure the Basuto women and children." + +Ubandini thought deeply for a moment, and then remarked, "Mafu (the +McLeod's native name), do you like rats?" + +McL. "No." + +U. "In fact you kill them whenever you can." + +McL. "Yes." + +U. "But surely you spare the females and little rats?" + +No answer. + +The black man will do much from fear or for utilitarian motives, but to +him as a rule charity simply does not exist. One day in 1874 an old man +came to Sepopo, the paramount chief of the Barotsi, and claimed his +help. Sepopo, who was drinking beer with a white trader, turned to some +of his men and said: "He's a very old man; can he do any work?" Being +answered in the negative he ordered his servants to take the old man +down to the river and hold his head under water. On being informed that +the unfortunate victim was dead he coolly said: "Then give him to the +crocodiles," and then went on chatting quietly and drinking beer with +his white friend. The whole affair was a matter of no importance. + +Of the intentions and views of the Zulus and the Boers at this time +Selous writes to his mother, January 25th, 1880, and it is interesting +to notice that at this time his attitude towards the Boers was not so +sympathetic as it eventually became on more intimate knowledge. + + "Last year when I went in hunting I thought to have done well, + as I obtained leave to hunt in a country where a few years ago + elephants were very plentiful. But, alas, during the last two + years Moremi's hunters from Lake Ngami have overrun the whole + district and effectively driven away the elephants, so that I + have again made an unsuccessful hunt. I shall now give up + hunting elephants, as it is impossible to make it pay. However, + I must make one more journey into the interior, which I intend + to be my last. If I keep my health it will be a long one, for I + intend to cross the Zambesi again and endeavour to penetrate + through the Mashukulumbwe country to Lake Bangwolo, for which + purpose I have bought twelve donkeys that will carry my traps + and make me independent to a great extent of native carriers. + + "During the last four years, though I have led a life of great + hardship and privation, yet I have lost much money and almost + ruined a good constitution; to throw away a little more money + and health after what has already gone, will not much matter, + and the former I may not lose at all, for I may shoot elephants, + indeed, most likely I shall. I intend publishing a book, and + think that a journey into a country where no one has ever been + before would greatly enhance its value. My plans are liable to + modification owing to fever, tsetse flies, and various minor + circumstances. + + "The Zulu war is over. You think it was unjustifiable, but it + was not so, for so long as the military power of the Zulus + remained unbroken there could be no peace in South Africa and + the white inhabitants of Natal and the Transvaal would have had + an assegai constantly dangling over their heads. Sir Bartle + Frere knew this, and no doubt manoeuvred so as to bring on a + war, a war which he knew to be inevitable sooner or later. Of + course but little glory has been gained, and one cannot but + admire and pity the Zulus, who made a brave but unavailing + resistance to our men armed with far superior weapons. I think + they are far better off than before, and are not burdened with + the cruel despotism of Cetawayo. It seems that after all there + will be a disturbance with the Transvaal Boers. I hope not, but + of course, if they force it upon themselves, their blood will be + upon their own heads. I do not admire them; mentally they are, I + should think, the most ignorant and stupid of all white races, + and they certainly have not one tenth part of the courage of the + Zulus. Physically they are immensely big as a rule and capital + shots, but there can only be one end for them to an open rupture + with the British authorities, death and confiscation of property + which will leave another legacy of hatred between Dutch and + English inhabitants of this country for many years to come." + +Early in 1880 Selous, having completely recovered from his attack of +fever and settled up French's affairs, turned his attention to the +preparations for his big expedition across the Zambesi. Difficulties, +however, arose which foiled all his plans. In the first place the +Matabele were supposed (officially) to be in a disturbed state, so it +was necessary for Selous to go to Pretoria to obtain from Sir Owen +Lanyon, the administrator of the Transvaal, permission to carry a good +supply of ammunition. This, however, Sir Owen blankly refused. The +secretary to the administrator was Mr. Godfrey Lagden (afterwards Sir +Godfrey Lagden, Governor of Basutoland for many years, and a close +friend of Selous). Sir Godfrey thus writes to me:- + + "Selous approached me to get the Governor's permit to proceed + with firearms through a forbidden or restricted route to + Matabeleland, then closed owing to political reasons. This route + was dangerous to travel in consequence of the threatening + attitude of Lobengula. I was able to help in a measure--who + could refuse to help so bold and charming a personality?--but + not to the full measure he wanted. He went away saying: 'I want + you some day to come and trek with me, and enjoy as you do the + beautiful big game as well as the small without killing it. + Meanwhile I must away, and as a permit cannot take me over the + Crocodile river, I must swim it in spite of crocodiles and + Matabele.'" + +The refusal of a permit to carry sufficient ammunition undoubtedly +caused him to abandon the long journey--that is to say, for the time +being--and in his letters home at this period he is once again depressed +at the financial outlook and the difficulty of making a living. "I hope +to be in England," he says (March, 1880), "by the end of the year. I +shall then go in for writing a book, for which I may get a little money. +I know that people have got good sums for writing bad books on Africa, +full of lies, though I do not know if a true book will sell well. My +book at any rate will command a large sale out here, as I am so well +known, and have a reputation for speaking nothing but the truth." + +Before going home he decided to go to Matabeleland and join his friends +Collison, J. S. Jameson, and Dr. Crook in a hunting trip to the Mashuna +country. + +Here it is necessary to say a few words concerning Selous' friend, J. S. +Jameson, for in later days he took a prominent part in the page of +African history. + +James Sligo Jameson was born at Alloa, N.B., on 17th of August, 1856. +His father, Andrew Jameson, was the son of John Jameson, who founded the +business in Dublin. From his early youth he evinced a great taste for +sport and natural history, with a desire to travel and doing something +big. After schooldays at Dreghorn and the International College, +Isleworth, he began to read for the army, but soon abandoned his +intention, and his father being a rich man he went on his travels in +1877 to Ceylon, Calcutta, Singapore, and Borneo, where he made a good +collection of birds and insects. In 1878 he went to South Africa and +hunted on the borders of the Kalahari in Montsioa's veldt until 1879, +when he returned to Potchefstroom and outfitted for an extensive trip to +Matabeleland and the Zambesi in 1880. Whilst at Potchefstroom he carried +despatches to Sir Garnet Wolseley at Pretoria and then returned, +completed his preparations, and trekked north across the Limpopo to +Matabeleland, where later on he met Selous. + +In the spring of 1881 Jameson returned to England with a fine collection +of heads, birds and insects, and the following year, in company with his +brother, J. A. Jameson, he went to the upper waters of the Mussel Shell +river in Montana and hunted successfully bear, sheep, wapiti, mule deer +and antelope. In 1883 he again hunted in the Rockies with his brother on +the North Foot of Stinking Water, then a great game country, and killed +thirty-six mountain sheep, buffalo, bears and wapiti. + +In 1884 he travelled in Spain and Algeria, and in 1885 married Ethel, +daughter of Major-General Sir Henry Durand. + +It was in January, 1887, that the English public were interested in the +proposed expedition for the relief of Emin Pasha--Gordon's friend--under +the command of H. M. Stanley. The whole idea was one that appealed to +Jameson's chivalrous nature, and as it seemed to offer good +opportunities for collecting specimens of big game, birds and insects in +a part of Africa that was practically unknown, he offered a thousand +pounds to be allowed to accompany the expedition as an officer acting +under Stanley's orders. This offer was at once accepted. + + "Why all the ambitions of my lifetime should have been + concentrated at this time, with a seemingly prosperous issue, I + know not; but I assure you that I did not accept the position + without weighing well all there was for and against it. Ever + since childhood I have dreamt of doing some good in this world, + and making a name which was more than an idle one. My life has + been a more or less selfish one, and now springs up this + opportunity of wiping off a little of the long score standing + against me. Do not blame me too much."[24] + +After a wearisome journey up the Congo, Stanley decided to make a base +camp at Yambuya on the Aruwimi, and to leave there all the sick and +useless Soudanese and Zanzibari soldiers and porters, extra stores, +etc., and to push on himself to the Ituri forest and Lake Albert with +the main expedition. Two officers had to be left in charge at Yambuya, +and to his great disgust Jameson found that he was one of those selected +for this uncongenial task. Almost from the first the whole outfit +suffered from semi-starvation. The site of the camp was badly chosen, +the natives were more or less hostile, and Jameson and his gallant +friend, Major Barttelot, were often at their wits' ends to feed their +men and keep down the continuous death-rate. + +Stanley, it seems, had promised to return in November, and that if he +did not return he had arranged with Tippu-Tib, the Arab chieftain, ivory +and slave-trader, and actual master of the Upper Congo, to permit a +thousand porters to bring on the rearguard and join him at Lake Albert. + +At last things became so desperate that Jameson himself went up the +Congo, a twenty-four days' journey, to see Tippu-Tib to try and induce +him to supply the men with which to cross Africa--even offering a bond +for five thousand pounds on his and Major Barttelot's private account if +Stanley's word was not considered sufficient. Tippu-Tib seems to have +behaved well, and accompanied Jameson back to Stanley Falls, from which +he and Barttelot presently started with some four hundred unruly Manyema +savages. + +We need not follow poor Jameson's troubles in the ensuing months of June +to August, 1888, when, the move failing, owing to ceaseless thefts, +desertions and small-pox, Jameson at last reached Unaria and Barttelot +returned to Stanley Falls. Barttelot was then murdered, and Jameson +returned to Stanley Falls, where he found it impossible to re-organize +the expedition without monetary help, which at the time he could not +obtain. There being no prospect of doing anything in the way of crossing +Africa, and no word or orders having been received from Stanley, Jameson +then went down the river to Bangala in order to obtain some reply from +the Emin Relief Committee. Tippu-Tib indeed offered himself to go with +Jameson, but demanded L20,000--a sum which at the time it was not +possible for Jameson to guarantee. On this journey Jameson got wet and +caught a chill which soon developed into acute fever. He was a dying man +when his good friend Herbert Ward lifted him from the canoe at Bangala, +and he only lived for a few days. + +Jameson was to all who knew him well of a generous and gentle nature, +full of thought for others and a man of high courage. + +At the end of May, 1880, Selous reached Bulawayo and met his friends, +and left a few days later for the hunting veldt, where they had fine +sport with all sorts of game except elephants. On July 24th Jameson and +Selous left their waggons on the Umfule river and went in on foot with +thirteen natives into the "fly" country to the north. This was a rough, +hilly country where rhinoceros were numerous in the hills and +hippopotami in the river. The country was quite unknown, but the object +of the hunters was to strike east to the Hanyane and follow it down to +the Portuguese town of Zumbo on the Zambesi. At Lo Magondi's kraal they +decided to abandon the Hanyane route and to follow the Umfule to its +junction with the Umniati. + +On July 31st they reached a pool and killed several hippopotami, and the +hunters and natives were soon revelling in meat and fat. The next day +Selous killed a very fine buffalo bull. In a few days they reached the +Umniati and entered the first Banyai village. The party got game almost +every day, and on August 10th Selous killed another fine buffalo bull. +On the Umniati the natives engaged in the practice of enclosing a space +of the river over 200 yards broad and 400 yards in length to confine a +herd of hippopotami so as to starve them to death. In one of these the +travellers saw ten unfortunate animals which had been enclosed for about +three weeks. Occasionally one was speared by the natives when it became +exhausted. + +On August 17th Jameson and Selous turned homewards towards their +waggons, and whilst travelling through the bush suddenly came upon two +fine bull elephants. Jameson was in great excitement, as they were the +first he had ever seen. The elephants passed broadside and both hunters +fired, but the beasts made off. After several more shots--Jameson having +got hold of his big rifle--both hunters killed their quarry, then +following the course of the Umzweswe for some distance, where Jameson +got his first lion, and by striking east to the Umfule river, they got +back to their waggons on August 30th. + +In a letter to his mother (November 2nd, 1880) Selous says: "I will send +you an account of a lion that came to our camp whilst we were away and +did a bit of mischief, causing the death amongst other things of Mr. +Jameson's servant, a white man named Ruthven." No details of this +unfortunate incident are, however, available. + +Jameson and Selous continued hunting until November, and then trekked +out to Bulawayo. In December Selous bade farewell to Lobengula and +reached Bamangwato at the end of the month. Early in 1881 war broke out +in the Transvaal, so Jameson and Selous travelled along the borders of +the Kalahari desert to Griqualand and reached the Diamond Fields. Here +Selous disposed of his waggon, oxen and horses, travelled to Port +Elizabeth, and took ship for England. As soon as he landed he heard that +"the wretched war with the Transvaal--a war that will leave a legacy of +hatred for generations to come to be equally divided between the Dutch +and English colonists in South Africa--had been concluded by a most +humiliating peace, and a more disgraceful page added to the history of +England than any that have yet been written in its annals." + +On April 17th, 1877, Sir T. Shepstone, on behalf of H.M. Government, +annexed the Transvaal. It is true that for a long time the management of +the affairs of the Boer Republic had been going from bad to worse. Its +government had no longer powers to enforce laws or to collect taxes. +Nevertheless, many thought our action was unjust as long as their +affairs did not affect us. On one point, however, we had a right, for +the conduct of the Boers to the native tribes had been abominable. One +of the causes alleged for our interference was the desultory war carried +on with great brutality by the Boers against Sekukuni, chief of the +Bapedi. This war was brought on by the encroachment of the Boers on the +Bapedi, just as the Zulu war was brought on by similar causes. The +object of the Boers in their attacks on native races was firstly the +acquisition of territory, and secondly the capture of children to be +brought up as slaves. + +When the annexation was announced, the Zulus rejoiced greatly, but their +joy was soon dashed when they found that, far from removing the bitter +trouble of the boundary question, the English had turned against them in +this matter. They were sore at our having espoused the cause of their +enemies, the Boers, whom they had refrained from attacking for many +years, when they could have done so with impunity, without coming into +collision with the English. Even at this time they still believed in us; +but considered that Sir T. Shepstone in undertaking the government of +the Boers, had become a Boer himself. + +At first the Boers took the annexation quietly, and sent two commissions +to London, in 1877 and 1878, with a memorial signed by thousands of +Boers stating their rights in the matter, in order to avoid war, but +obtained no satisfaction from the Secretary of State for the Colonies. A +considerable feeling of unrest therefore remained after their return, +and the Boers went into laager near Pretoria, where Sir Bartle Frere met +them on September 10th, 1879. The Boers then complained bitterly of the +annexation and of the manner in which it had been carried out. The +answer given on the 29th of September by Sir Garnet Wolseley was that we +intended to keep the Transvaal. + +On the 12th of December there was a meeting of over six thousand Boers +at Wonderfontein, and many resolutions were passed which in the main +proclaimed their continued independence. At the end of 1879, however, +the Home Government established a sort of Executive Council for the +Transvaal which consisted of both Boers and Englishmen. In March, 1880, +the first legislative assembly under Her Majesty's rule was opened at +Pretoria by Colonel Owen Lanyon, and for a short time after this the +Home Government was assured that the agitation amongst the Boers was +dying out, whereas in reality it was only the calm before the storm. + +On November 11th some disaffected Boers forcibly stopped an execution +sale for non-payment of taxes. Soon after this the Boers gathered and +refused to pay taxes. This led to collisions, and Sir Owen Lanyon +ordered up troops to Potchefstroom. On December 13th, 1880, the first +shot was fired and England began to reap the fruit of her disastrous +policy. The result of the war of 1881 and the subsequent peace made by +Gladstone immediately after the disaster of Majuba are too well known to +need recapitulation. + +As soon as Selous arrived in England he began preparing for the Press an +account of his travels which was published by Richard Bentley & Son in +the same year under the title of "A Hunter's Wanderings in Africa."[25] +As was expected by his friends, but not himself, it achieved an +immediate success and stamped the author at once not only as a great +hunter, naturalist and explorer, but as one who could narrate his +experiences in an entertaining fashion. Since Baldwin's "African Hunting +and Adventure," published in 1863, there had been no first-class book on +South African sport, so Selous' book was welcomed by all men who love +the rifle and the wilderness. If he made a mistake it was in publishing +the lists of game shot by himself between January, 1877, and December, +1880. They amount to such a formidable total that, both at the time and +subsequently reviewers attacked him for what they call "this wholesale +senseless slaughter." Selous was wont to reply to this charge by saying +that the greater part of the meat killed was consumed by his own +followers and hungry natives who would do nothing for him unless he +killed some animal for food.[26] This is very true, but it must be +admitted there was enormous waste on some days when four or five +giraffes or elephants were killed. Selous, however, was no different +from other hunters of all time, and thought that in the case of very +abundant species they would last for ever, or in the case of +others--such as the great game--if he did not shoot them somebody else +would. Nevertheless, he was far more considerate than the majority of +the early hunters, and never shot an animal except for a definite +purpose. Between the years 1860-1870 the destruction of game in South +Africa was very great, but the real disappearance of the large fauna +probably dated from the introduction of the modern breechloading rifle, +roughly about 1875, and the commencement of the sale of hides for +commercial purposes. It will give the reader a better idea of what this +wholesale destruction meant when I state that one dealer in Kroonstad +(Orange River Colony) told me by reference to his books that between the +years 1878-1880 he exported nearly two million skins of springbuck, +blesbok and black wildebeest. He, it is true, was the principal dealer +in hides for that part of the Vaal river district, but there were many +others who also exported very large numbers. It has been abundantly +proved that game of all kinds must disappear at the advent of railways +and modern weapons. In a new country every man carries a rifle and uses +it, whilst history teaches us that nothing has ever been done to save +the game until it is on the verge of extinction. East Africa, alone of +all countries, made adequate Game Laws in time, but how long the game +will last there, near railways, is a doubtful point, for the settlers +have now taken matters into their own hands and are destroying the game +wholesale on the pretext of wanting the grass for the cattle. This is +done indiscriminately by all settlers whether they have cattle or not. +Considering that Big Game shooting parties furnish a good part of the +revenue (over L10,000 annually in shooting licences) of British East +Africa, and that the country, except for coffee, black wattle and hemp, +all of which grow where there is little or no big game, is mostly +unsuitable for ranching, the state of things is deplorable. + +There are many who sneer at Big Game shooting, and are opposed to the +slaughter of animals, but if we look upon this sport in a wider sense, +in its magnificent opportunities for training the body and developing +the best qualities in men of the right stamp, and in the matter of +shooting, endurance and the organization of material, we will find that +the balance is on the right side. There is, in fact, no outdoor exercise +to compare with it, whilst the man who delights in slaughtering large +numbers of animals purely for the lust of taking life is extremely +rare. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[22] "A Hunter's Wanderings," pp. 382-383. + +[23] "History of the Zulu War," by Miss Colenso and Col. Durnford. + +[24] Letter to Lady Durand, Jan. 22nd, 1887, from "Story of the Rear +Column," p. 31. + +[25] Mrs. Jones (Miss A. S. Selous), who did the illustrations for his +first book, writes to me: "I fear I must own to these illustrations, but +at least they were a proof of what my brother was to me--my hero +always--I never could have gone through such an ordeal otherwise, for I +knew nothing about animals. Still I do not regret them, although the +sight of them on the screen was always acutely painful to me! You were +his greatest friend, so you will understand." + +[26] Writing in 1892 Selous says: "As I have lately been accused of +slaughtering game for sport, I will take this opportunity of saying that +during this journey (Autumn, 1892), though I walked for days amongst +innumerable herds of wild animals, I only fired away twelve cartridges +from the day I left Salisbury until the date of my return there, and +that, as is my usual practice, I never fired a shot except for the +purpose of supplying myself and my party with meat." + + + + +CHAPTER VI +1881-1885 + + +When Selous returned to South Africa in November, 1881, it was with the +fixed intention of abandoning his wandering life. The chase of the +elephant which, above all wild animals, furnished some pecuniary return, +had now become so precarious, owing to the scarcity of the animals, that +even men like Selous could not make a living at it, so when his friend +Mandy, who was doing well in Cape Colony as an ostrich-farmer, suggested +to him that he should enter the same profession, he decided that the +advice was good. Accordingly when he returned to the Cape he at once +visited Mandy, whom he found far from flourishing. His employer had died +and ostrich-business was at a low ebb commercially, so Selous, who had +several orders for specimens of the larger game from dealers and +museums, once more turned his thoughts towards the north, and was soon +again on his way to the happy hunting grounds. At Kimberley he bought a +fine grey horse named "Diamond" (which, after proving his excellence, +fell a victim to the usual horse-sickness), and then proceeded to +Klerksdorp in the Transvaal, where he hoped to take over his friend +Collison's Matabele boys. These he found ready to go with him, as well +as Morris, the waggon-driver, and an excellent Griqua lad named Laer, +who was later of much assistance in skinning and preparing specimens. +From an old Matabele pioneer named Leask he bought a waggon and a good +span of oxen, and also laid in a good stock of provisions. Just as he +was starting, a missionary named Arnot begged for a passage to +Bamangwato, which was at once granted. Passing through the Manica +district of the Transvaal, Selous met one of the old Boer Voortrekkers, +by name Friedrich de Lange, who showed him a curious "snake-stone" which +was supposed to have the power to cure snake-bite. De Lange valued this +stone highly, and stated that its efficacy was invariable, and that it +had already cured several people and horses that had been bitten by +snakes. Selous himself was able to confirm de Lange's belief in the +talisman, for he had met the daughter of one Antony Forman, who as a +child had been severely bitten by a cobra, and whose life was saved by +applying the stone, which was applied twice before it drew out the +poison. Selous met the girl--then sixteen years of age--in 1877 and she +showed him the old scar. Apparently the rough side of the stone adhered +to the wound until a certain amount of poison had been absorbed and then +it fell off. Several applications were necessary. It is probable that +this remarkable stone had been brought from India. + +Passing along the Crocodile river, where a drought set in and drove the +game to the neighbourhood of the river, Selous managed to kill a few +good specimens of hartebeest and wildebeest which he preserved. Diamond +proved a splendid shooting horse, but another mount, Nelson, which was +at first intractable, eventually became a valuable animal, as he +successfully survived the prevalent sickness. This horse, though +somewhat slow, did Selous yeoman service for several years, and he +eventually sold it to Lewanika, chief of the Barotsi, in 1888. + +At this time Selous hunted industriously to make a good collection of +butterflies, and after many years he did make a very complete +collection, which he presented to the Cape Town Museum. The curator of +this museum was the late Mr. Trimen--a man for whom Selous had a great +respect--who was ever delighted to receive any novelties, and many were +the new species discovered by these two active entomologists. Selous, in +fact, had all his life collected butterflies, and did so almost to the +day of his death in German East Africa, for it was nothing to him to +chase agile insects in the heat of the day, when other men only thought +of rest and refreshment. The capture of some new species was to him +always a great event, and though others, less interested than himself, +wondered at his taking so much trouble about a wretched butterfly, he +had all the absorbing pleasure of finding some new thing, the ambition +of all true naturalists. + +One day, whilst butterfly hunting, he found an ox bogged in the mud of +the river. The poor beast had been badly bitten by crocodiles, which are +perhaps more numerous in the Limpopo than in any river in South Africa, +except perhaps the Botletlie. Numerous goats and calves belonging to +natives were annually destroyed there, whilst in 1876 a Boer hunter +named Berns Niemand met his death from these reptiles whilst crossing +the river. + +At the Notwani river, on March 5th, Selous decided to visit Khama and +ask his permission to travel along the Limpopo and up the Mahalapsi +river to Matabeleland. He rode by night, and "off-saddled" to give his +horse a rest and feed for half an hour. + + "I had been lying thus upon the ground for perhaps a couple of + minutes, listening to the slight noise made by my horse as he + cropped the short dry herbage. Suddenly the sound ceased. For a + few seconds I lay dreamily wondering why it did not recommence; + but as there was still silence, I rolled quickly over on my + stomach, and, looking under the bush to ascertain why my horse + had stopped feeding, I saw that he was standing in an attitude + of fixed attention, with ears pricked forward, intently gazing + towards the road. I instantly turned and looked in the same + direction, and as instantly saw on what the horse's eyes were + fixed. There, not thirty yards away, and right in the open, a + lioness, looking large and white in the brilliant moonlight was + coming up at a quick and stealthy pace, and in a half-crouching + attitude. In an instant I was on my feet, and the lioness, + probably observing me for the first time, at once stopped and + crouched perfectly flat on the ground. The saddle and rifle lay + out in the moonlight right between me and the lioness, though + nearer to me than to her. It was not a time to hesitate. I knew + she must be pretty keen set, or she would have retreated upon + seeing me; and I felt that if I remained where I was, she would + resume her journey towards my horse, which might end in my + having to carry the saddle back to the Notwani. Obviously the + only thing to be done was to get hold of my rifle; so I walked + quickly forward into the moonlight towards where it lay against + the saddle. I must confess that I did not like advancing towards + the lioness, for I knew very well of what hungry lions are + capable; and there is nothing like experience to damp the + foolhardy courage of ignorance. However, whilst I took those + dozen steps she never stirred; but just as I stooped to grasp my + rifle she sprang up with a low purring growl, and made off + towards some thorn-bushes to her right. I fired at her as she + ran, and, though I certainly ought to have hit her, I must have + missed, as she neither growled nor changed her pace. But I was + fairly well pleased to have driven her off, and lost no time in + loosening my horse's hobbles and saddling him again." + +After this adventure and visiting Khama, who as usual acceded to his +request, he passed on north to Matabeleland, and in June formed a +hunting camp on the tributary of the river Bili in the well-watered +valleys and verdant forests of Northern Mashunaland. + +On June 20th he set a gin for hyenas which had been troublesome. Soon +after midnight his dogs began barking and retreated into camp, which +they would not have done before a hyena. Then some heavy animals came +galloping past and Blucher, a favourite dog, was missed. Since the +animal had uttered no sound Selous concluded he had been seized by the +head and carried off by a lion. For a time all was quiet, and then the +boys began shouting and said that a lion had come through the +thorn-fence and taken the skin of a sable antelope that had been drying +on a frame. This proved to be the case, and this very bold lion or +others then returned a second time and carried off another wet skin. + +Yet a third time the lion entered the camp and attacked the skins, one +of which he commenced drawing within thirty yards of the camp. All this +time Selous had never been able to get a clear shot, but as soon as dawn +came he saddled his horse and soon saw a lion and lioness lying on an +open bank close to the stream, but they moved off in the uncertain +light. For that day the lions won. + +[Illustration: BUFFALOES ALARMED.] + +That night an enclosure was built, baited, and a gin placed at each +entrance, but later only a hyena met its death. At sundown poor Blucher, +terribly mangled, crawled into camp, but though every attention was +given him, he died some weeks later. The next day, however, better luck +prevailed. Some Kafirs found a lion, and Selous getting a close shot +from the back of his horse killed it with a bullet in the head. On the +way back to camp another lion was put up and bolted through the forest. + +This lion he wounded badly and lost for a time, but on further search it +was found and charged the hunter savagely. The lion then stopped. + + "The position was now this: the lion was standing with open + mouth, from which blood was flowing, growling savagely, and + looking like nothing but a wounded and furious lion, whilst + right in front of him, and within thirty yards, stood Laer's + refractory pony, backing towards the lion, and pulling with him + Laer, who, of course, was looking full into his open jaws, which + he did not seem to admire. I think I shall never forget the + momentary glimpse I had of his face. He was at that time only a + lad of about fifteen or sixteen years of age, and there is no + wonder that he was frightened--but frightened he most certainly + was: his hat had fallen off, his mouth was wide open, and his + eyes staring, and he was pulling desperately against the horse, + which was steadily dragging him nearer to the lion. I was a + little to the right of Laer and a little further from the lion, + but not much, and he looked alternately at the two of us. I am + sure it was simply want of strength that prevented him from + coming on and mauling either Laer or the pony, for before I + could raise my rifle he sank down on the ground, but still kept + his head up, and, with his mouth wide open, never ceased + growling or roaring (I do not know which is the better word). Of + course I fired as quickly as I could, the circumstances not + admitting of any delay. I aimed right for his open mouth, and at + the shot his head fell so suddenly, and in such a way, that I + knew the bullet had reached his brain."[27] + +During the next six weeks Selous shot and preserved many fine specimens +of the larger African antelopes for the British Museum, Cape Museum, and +London dealers. At this time he met his old friend Dorehill, who was +also on a shooting trip. He had with him his young wife, who was +probably the first English lady to travel in the interior of +Mashunaland. On the way to visit him at his camp Selous killed a leopard +which was feeding at mid-day on the carcase of a black rhinoceros killed +by Dorehill--a very unusual circumstance. + +At this time Selous determined to visit Tete on the Zambesi, going there +via the Hanyane river, and to cross the intervening country which was +then quite unknown. After leaving his waggons on August 6th, he crossed +the Manyami, accompanied by Laer, some natives, and one pack donkey, and +passed numerous Mashuna villages on the hills, and so across to Umkwasi +to the remarkable hills of Chikasi, where rocks several hundred feet +high rise from the level plains. The country here was beautiful and the +climate that of an English June, though colder at night. Here Selous +lost his only donkey, killed by a hyena. + +After crossing the Mutiki and the Dandi rivers, where no game was seen, +and reaching Garanga, where guides were obtained, all the party now +descended to the Zambesi valley. At the Kadzi river there was a +considerable amount of game and swarms of tsetse flies, and so, +following the course of the Umsengaisi, Selous reached the Zambesi at +Chabonag on August 17th. + +Here he decided to make for Zumbo. + +After reaching Zumbo, formerly a centre of trade in gold dust and now a +trade base for ivory, which mostly came from the Loangwa valley to the +north, Selous, after mapping various new features in this region, struck +south again. He had difficulty with his guides and, as always happens in +the intense heat of the Zambesi valley, was again struck down with +fever. He struggled on, however, on foot until September 10th, when Laer +turned up with one of his horses, and on September 14th reached his +camp, where in the fine air he soon mastered the fever. Early in October +he reached the Matabele country and travelled to Klerksdorp, where he +despatched his collections to Cape Town and England. + +After laying in a fresh stock of provisions and trading goods he again +set out for the interior, and in May, 1883, made his permanent camp on +the banks of the Manyami river in Mashunaland. After unsuccessfully +searching for elephants to the north and west, he crossed the Manyami to +the Mazoe river, and from thence proceeded to the eastern bank of the +Sabi river, close to the Portuguese frontier, where he hoped to obtain +specimens of the now rare white rhinoceros and Liechtenstein's +hartebeest. So far the last named was only known from specimens taken at +and north of the Zambesi river, so that it was possible that the Sabi +hartebeest might be slightly different.[28] + +On the 11th of July Selous made a start for the south-east, and on the +way knocked down a good specimen of the striped eland which, however, he +was destined to lose, as he had lost his knife and had not another +cartridge to kill it with. The next day he shot a splendid wart-hog, +which cut his dog Punch rather badly, and which for many years was the +best specimen in his museum. Next day he emerged on to the high open +grassy downs between the Manyami and the Mazoe rivers. The climate of +this delightful region, which has an elevation from 4500 to 6000 feet, +is the best in Mashunaland and has an equable temperature throughout the +year except in the months of June and July, which are rather cold. +Running streams intersect the plateau in all directions and small +patches of forest afford wood and shelter to passing travellers. Fifty +years before this beautiful country was heavily populated by peaceful +Mashunas, but about 1840 the bloodthirsty Matabele overran the district +and slaughtered everyone except a few which were kept for slaves. + +In 1883 it was a great country for eland, roan antelope, and ostriches, +several fine specimens of which fell to Selous' rifle. One of these, a +female roan with horns 2 ft. 7 in. over the curve, still remains the +record for females of this species. Near the river Chingi-Ka he killed a +fine bull eland, which he left with some Mashunas who, however, skinned +and cut it up during the night. This threw Selous into a rage, and he +seized their bows and arrows and assegais and threw them on the fire, +and then to their astonishment and annoyance made a bonfire of the rest +of the carcase. + +On July 30th he reached the river Impali, a tributary of the Sabi. Here +was a Mashuna town where all the men carried bows and arrows and the +women were tattooed on the forehead, cheeks, breasts and stomach. The +next day Selous found tracks of the antelope he had come to hunt, but on +this and following days he had no luck in finding them, though some days +afterwards he killed a bull rhinoceros. He then returned to his camp on +the Manyami, and continued to hunt there till November, and then started +south-west on his return home. The day after leaving the Manyami, whilst +crossing a tributary of the River Sarua, the wheel of one of his waggons +collapsed, and knowing that a Boer and an Englishman were close at hand, +Selous determined to go to their camp, borrow a wheel and bring his +waggon on, and make the new wheel in a place where he would have the +pleasure of talking to some white men. That day Selous rode across +country to the camp of Grant and Karl Weyand, and when Laer turned up +they received the news that the waggon driver had met five Hons on the +road. Selous then felt sorry he had not gone by this route, for Laer +described the big lion of the party as the most magnificent he had ever +seen. Next day Selous rode back to his camp, and on the way he had an +exciting adventure with a leopard which he wounded as it ran into the +bush. The now angry beast hid in the cover but disclosed its whereabouts +when the hunter came close. "However, I had seen whereabouts he was +lying, and so determined to fire a shot or two to make him show himself; +but before I could do so he again raised his head with another snarl, +and immediately after came straight out at me, and at such a pace that +before I could turn my horse and get him started the leopard was right +under his tail. He chased me for some sixty or seventy yards before he +stopped, coming right into the open and keeping close up the whole time. +I pulled in as quickly as I could, and before the plucky little beast +regained the bush gave him a second shot which quickly proved fatal. +When charging and chasing me this leopard growled and grunted or roared +exactly like a lion under similar circumstances, and made just as much +noise." + +The next day Laer turned up with the wheel, across which lay the fresh +skin of a lion he had killed. It appeared that the previous evening when +the waggon-driver and a native boy named April were sitting by the fire +a lion rushed into the camp and attacked one of the oxen. April fired at +it and missed, but Laer, though only a boy, put in another cartridge and +took a shot which was fatal. + +The following day some men whom Selous had sent into the "fly" to look +for elephants returned and reported "a big lion close by." Immediately +Selous was out and after him with his dogs, which were led. He had not, +however, gone far when he saw the lion lying flat on the ground at right +angles to where he was riding. As his horse would not stand, he +dismounted. + + "All this time the lion had never moved, nor did he now, but lay + watching me intently with his yellow eyes. Nothing stirred but + his tail, the end of which he twitched slowly, so that the black + bunch of hair at its extremity appeared first on one side of + him, then on the other. As I raised my rifle to my shoulder I + found that the fallen tree-trunk interfered considerably with + the fine view I had had of him from my horse's back, as it hid + almost all his nose below the eyes. In the position in which he + was now holding his head I ought to have hit him about half-way + between the nostrils and the eyes, which was impossible; + anywhere above the eyes would have been too high, as the bullet + would have glanced from his skull, so that it required a very + exact shot to kill him on the spot. However, there was no time + to wait, and, trying to aim so that the bullet should just clear + the fallen log and catch him between the eyes, I fired. With a + loud roar he answered the shot, and I instantly became aware + that he was coming straight at me with open mouth and flaming + eyes, growling savagely. I knew it was hopeless to try to get + another cartridge into my single-barrelled rifle, and utterly + useless to try to mount, more especially as my horse, startled + by the loud hoarse grunts and sudden and disagreeable appearance + of the charging lion, backed so vigorously that the bridle (to a + running ring on which a strong thong was attached, the other end + being fastened to my belt) came over his head. I had a strong + feeling that I was about to have an opportunity of testing the + accuracy of Dr. Livingstone's incredible statement that, for + certain reasons (explained by the Doctor), a lion's bite gives + no pain; but there was no time to think of anything in + particular. The whole adventure was the affair of a moment. I + just brought my rifle round in front of me, holding the small of + the stock in my right hand and the barrel in my left, with a + vague idea of getting it into the lion's mouth, and at the same + time yelled as loud as I could, 'Los de honden, los de honden,' + which being translated means, 'Let loose the dogs.' In an + instant, as I say, the lion was close up to me. I had never + moved my feet since firing, and whether it was my standing still + facing him that made him alter his mind, or whether he heard the + noise made by my people, who, hearing my shot, immediately + followed by the loud growling of the lion, were all shouting and + making a noise to frighten the lion from coming their way, I + cannot take upon myself to say; but he came straight on to + within about six yards of me, looking, I must say, most + unpleasant, and then suddenly swerved off, and passing me, + galloped away."[29] + +The dogs then ran him to bay alongside a big ant-hill. + + "As soon as he saw me he paid no further heed to his canine + foes, but stood, with his eyes fixed on the most dangerous of + his assailants, growling hoarsely, and with his head held low + between his shoulders--just ready to charge, in fact. I knew my + horse would not stand steady, so jumped off, and taking a quick + aim fired instantly, as it does not do to wait when a lion is + looking at you like this, and when he may make up his mind to + come at any moment. Usually they jerk their tails up over their + backs, holding them perfectly stiff and rigid, two or three + times before charging. They sometimes charge without doing this, + but they never do it without charging. My bullet inflicted a + mortal wound, entering between the animal's neck and shoulder + and travelling the whole length of his body. He sat down like a + dog on his haunches immediately after, and was evidently done + for, as he lolled his tongue out of his mouth and growled feebly + when the dogs bit him in the hind-quarters."[30] + +The pegged-out skin of his lion measured ten feet eleven inches, and it +proved to be the third largest Selous ever killed. + +In mid-December Selous went out to Bulawayo and there found himself +involved in a row with Lobengula, who unjustly accused him of killing +hippopotami. The Matabele apparently had some superstition regarding +these animals and believed that a drought would follow the killing of a +number of these animals unless the bones were returned to the river. +Doubtless some slaughter had taken place owing to the activities of a +certain trader who made a business in sjamboks. + +When Selous met Lobengula he was at first quite friendly, and when the +hunter told him he had not killed a single hippopotamus that year the +king said there was no case against him. A few days later, however, he +was summoned to the king's presence and Selous heard there was likely to +be trouble. The case lasted three days, during which time the white men +accused had to sit outside the kraal in the pouring rain. + +Concluding his attack on Selous, Ma-kwaykwi, one of the head indunas, +said: + + "'It is you, Selous, who have finished the king's game.' He went + on: 'But you are a witch, you must bring them all to life again. + I want to see them--all, all. Let them all walk in at the kraal + gate, the elephants, and the buffaloes, and the elands.' + + "I stood up and called out: 'All right; but when the lions come + in, will you, Ma-kwaykwi, remain where you are to count them?' + + "This caused a general laugh at Ma-kwaykwi's expense, and quite + stopped his flow of eloquence." + +Finally Selous had to pay sixty pounds. This fine he always considered +to be a robbery. + +As soon as the case finished Selous went to Klerksdorp and sent his +collections to England. He was sore at his treatment by Lobengula, and +so determined to avoid Matabeleland and to hunt in the northern parts of +Khama's territory this year. One day at Klerksdorp he met Walter +Montague Kerr bent on a long expedition through Matabeleland and +Mashunaland to the Zambesi, and the two hunters travelled together as +far as Bulawayo. Here they separated, Kerr going north and eventually +crossing the Zambesi, where the illness, privation, and hardship he +underwent so undermined his health that his early death resulted. He +published an interesting book on his travels[31] which is, however, now +little known. + +At this time Selous was much depressed owing to the low state of his +finances, for although he had been able to support himself entirely by +trading and his rifle since 1871, he had made nothing and his whole +assets were represented by horses, oxen, waggons and general outfit. His +mother, too, frequently urged him to give up South Africa, and either +come home or try another country, but to this he turned a deaf ear and +only expressed his wish to worry on till better times came. Writing to +her on April 6th, 1884, from Bamangwato, he says:-- + + "This country is now in a terrible state financially, bankrupt + from Cape Town to the Zambesi. Nothing that is not exportable + has any real value, for nothing can be turned into money. Thanks + to my specimens I have during the last two years, in spite of + more than reasonable losses, even for Africa, done very well, + but all that I have made is represented by waggons, salted + horses, cattle, rifles, etc., for all of which I have paid large + prices, but which, if I wished to realize and leave the + country, would bring me in scarcely enough to pay my passage to + England. It is all very well to tell a man to leave such a + country and try another. It would be the wisest thing to do, no + doubt, but it is a thing that few men are capable of doing. What + you say of Edward Colchester (friend of his youth) returning to + Australia and beginning life again at thirty-nine is not at all + to the point. He would simply be returning again to his old + life, for which he has never ceased to pine ever since he came + home and settled down in England. I was very interested in what + you told me about Spiritualism, but are you sure that William + Colchester really saw his child (recently deceased) and touched + and spoke to him? In Sergeant Cox's accounts of Materializations + the figure seen is that of the medium, and I have never yet seen + an authentic account of any other Materialization. At present I + believe nothing (about Spiritualism), but am _inclined_ towards + Materialism, but at the same time I do not believe everything, + and am in a state of doubt. If I felt sure--quite sure--that I + was merely material, I think I should before long take a good + dose of laudanum and stop the working of my inward mechanism, + for life, on the whole, is a failure--to me, at any rate--who, I + think, am naturally of rather a sad turn of mind, though I can + quite understand it being very different to sanguine hopeful + people. However, as I feel doubtful upon the subject, I + certainly shall not have recourse to violent measures but shall + protect my vital spark as long as I can. I think I told you + about Jameson being struck down by a sort of paralytic stroke + and not being able to come out this year to hunt. + + "I am very sorry indeed, for being with Jameson, who is, of + course, a rich man, I should have been free from the constant + anxiety which now overhangs me like a black cloud as to whether + I shall be able to pay my debts. It is so very easy to lose a + hundred pounds in live stock, from sickness, drought, hunger, + etc., and so hard, so very hard, to make it. Last year I paid + Mr. Leask nearly L1600. This year I only owe a few hundreds and + am at present well to the good, as I have nearly L2000 worth of + property." + +Selous left Bamangwato in April, 1884, and trekked across the desert +north-west to the Mababe veldt. He was fortunate enough to find for once +plenty of water, owing to thunder-storms, and he did not experience any +great hardships as he did in 1873 and 1879. In June he established his +main hunting camp near the north end of the Mababe flats. The bushmen +here told him of the activities of a man-eating lion who had recently +killed several men. Selous at once set out to look for him, and soon +found one of the unfortunate victims, torn to pieces and partially +eaten. But the lion seems to have left this district, and the hunter was +unable to find him, since he did not commit further depredations. + +Selous did not remain long on the Mababe. In August he retreated to Sode +Gara and Horn's Vley, where he killed some good specimens of giraffe, +hartebeest, gemsbuck, and ostrich. Then he moved eastward for a while, +and afterwards went south to Tati, which he reached in late November, +and so on to Bulawayo, where he remained for the winter, sending his +specimens out on a trader's waggon. + +After visiting Lobengula, who demanded a salted horse valued at sixty +pounds for the right to hunt in Mashunaland, Selous set off again to the +north-east. He took with him four horses and thus quaintly describes a +new cure for a hopeless "bucker." + +"I almost cured him," he says, "of bucking by riding him with an adze +handle, and stunning him by a heavy blow administered between the ears +as soon as he commenced, which he invariably did as soon as one touched +the saddle; but I never could make a shooting horse of him, and finally +gave him to Lobengula, in the hope that he would present him to +Ma-kwaykwi or some other of his indunas against whom I had a personal +grudge." + +Selous now went to the Se-whoi-whoi river, where two years previously he +killed the last two white rhinoceroses he was destined to see. These +great creatures had now become exceedingly scarce in Africa south of the +Zambesi, and are now quite extinct in all South Africa except in the +neighbourhood of the Black Umvolosi in Zululand, where, according to +latest reports (1917), there are twelve which are fortunately strictly +preserved. In 1886 two Boers in Northern Mashunaland killed ten, and +five were killed in Matabeleland in the same year. After this date they +seemed to be extremely rare. I saw the tracks of one near the Sabi in +1893, and the same year Mr. Coryndon killed one in Northern Mashunaland. + +When he reached the high plateau of Mashunaland and got to the Umfule +and Umniati rivers Selous found game plentiful, and was soon busy +collecting specimens. After a visit to the Zweswi he passed on to the +Lundaza, a tributary of the Umfule. Here he found a large herd of +elephants. He was, however, badly mounted on a sulky horse, as his +favourite Nelson had been injured, and this greatly handicapped him, as +well as causing him twice to have some hairbreadth escapes. + +On the great day on which he killed six elephants he had numerous +adventures. First he shot at and wounded a large bull which he could not +follow, as an old cow charged him viciously and gradually overhauled his +sulky horse; but on entering thick bush he avoided her and soon got to +work on two fresh bulls which he killed. He then dashed after the broken +herd and soon came face to face with an old cow, who chased him so hard +that he had to leap off his horse to avoid her. Curiously enough, the +elephant did not molest his horse, but getting the wind of the hunter, +charged him and was eventually killed. Selous then followed the +retreating herd, and only at first succeeded in wounding two large cows, +one of which charged him, when he had again to abandon his horse, but +after some trouble he killed them both. + +Later, on the Manyami, he found another small herd and killed a big bull +and a cow. The bull charged him fiercely but swung off on receiving a +frontal shot, and was then killed with a heart shot. Later in the year +he went south to the Sabi and was lucky enough to kill five +Liechtenstein's hartebeest, which he had failed to get on his previous +hunt for them. + +In December he returned to Bulawayo. On the way, whilst travelling with +Collison, James Dawson, and Cornelis van Rooyen, a noted Boer hunter, +an incident occurred which showed the power of a sable antelope in +defending itself from dogs. Van Rooyen fired at a bull, and all the dogs +rushed from the waggon to bring the wounded animal to bay. When the +hunter got up and killed the sable it was found that the gallant +antelope in defending itself with its scimitar-like horns had killed +outright four valuable dogs and badly wounded four more. The strength +and rapidity with which a sable bull uses its horns is a wonderful thing +to see. When cornered either by a lion or dogs the sable lies down and +induces the enemy to attack its flanks. Then like a flash the horns are +swept sideways and the attacker pierced. I lost my best dog by a wounded +bull in 1893. He was killed in an instant, both horns going right +through the whole body, between heart and lungs. In the same year I +found in a dying condition a splendid bull sable, badly mauled by a +lion, and incapable of rising, but the lion himself, an old male, was +found dead about a hundred yards away by some Shangan natives. I saw the +claws and teeth of this lion, but the skin was not preserved as the lion +had been dead some days when it was found. There is little doubt that +both the sable and the roan antelopes are dangerous when cornered. A +Matabele warrior was killed by a wounded cow sable in 1892, and Sergeant +Chawner of the Mashunaland police was in 1890 charged by a slightly +wounded bull roan which missed the rider but struck his horse through +the neck and so injured it that it had to be shot. A similar incident +also happened to Mr. George Banks in 1893. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[27] "Travel and Adventure in S.E. Africa," pp. 37-40. + +[28] Selous, however, did not kill any on this trip. I shot one near the +Sabi in 1893 which proved to be identical with the northern race. + +[29] "Travel and Adventure in S.E. Africa," pp. 130-133. + +[30] "Travel and Adventure in S.E. Africa," pp. 133-134. + +[31] "The Far Interior." + + + + +CHAPTER VII +1886-1889 + + +During the year 1886 Selous did but little hunting and shooting, though +he twice made short visits to Matabeleland both before and after a +journey home to England, where he remained for several months. In the +following year he was employed to act as guide and hunter to Messrs. J. +A. Jameson,[32] A. C. Fountaine,[33] and F. Cooper,[34] on a long trip +to Mashunaland, in which all concerned had wonderful sport. The party +killed twelve lions, and discovered the remarkable limestone caves of +Sinoia and the subterranean lake whose waters are cobalt blue.[35] + +A main camp was established on the Upper Manyami, and from there hunts +were organized in all directions. The travels of the four Englishmen +occupied the greater part of the year. + +It was during this expedition that one day whilst chasing four koodoo +bulls Selous charged straight into one of the pitfalls made by the +natives for trapping game. The impact was so great that the horse broke +his back and Selous himself so injured the tendons of one of his legs +that he was unable to walk for three weeks afterwards. In such a life as +he had, much of which was spent in rough country, racing game at full +speed on horseback, it was unavoidable that the hunter should meet with +numerous falls. He was, however, so tough and clever that in most cases +he escaped unhurt, but once, when chasing a black rhinoceros on the +Manyami river in 1883, he had a bad fall and smashed his collar-bone, +and on another occasion, in October, 1880, whilst chasing a bull eland, +he dashed at full speed into a dead tree branch. Even after this he +killed his game, but on reaching camp became half-unconscious with +concussion of the brain. There was a deep wound on the side of his eye +which destroyed the tear-duct, leaving a cavity which eventually healed +up, but a year after, one day in London, he coughed up a piece of wood +that must have been driven right through the tear-duct till it reached +the passage at the back of the nose. The scar on his face seen in all +later photographs of Selous was caused by the recoil of his first +elephant-gun, which his native servant had inadvertently loaded twice. + +Of the expedition of 1887, when Selous hunted with J. A. Jameson, A. C. +Fountaine, and Frank Cooper, no complete record seems to have been kept, +but Selous narrates a few of their adventures in his articles in the +Geographical Society's Journal[36] (1888), and in "Travel and Adventure +in South-East Africa," pp. 445-7, he gives some details of their +wanderings. + +It was not the habit of Selous to give up any scheme, however difficult, +once he had set his heart upon it. We have seen how often his plans for +reaching the "Promised Land" beyond the Zambesi had been foiled, but he +never abandoned the idea and resolved to put it into execution whenever +the opportunity should occur. At last, in 1888, he found himself free to +make another attempt. He was in good health and possessed an ample +supply of money to purchase material, which in the case of the long +journey involved was a necessity. + +He left Bamangwato on April 9th, 1888, with two waggons, five salted +horses, and sixteen donkeys. His intention was to go first to Lialui and +take up his residence with Lewanika for at least a year. Panda-ma-tenka +was reached on the 16th of May, and there Selous learned that the +country to the north was in a very unsettled condition owing to rival +claims to the chieftainship of Barotsiland, and that it might be months +before he got across the Zambesi. Soon after, he met his old friend +George Westbeech, who strongly advised him not to enter Barotsiland, but +to take advantage of an invitation from Mr. Arnot, who was established +in the Garanganzi country, which was said to be full of elephants. + +Accordingly Selous left his waggons and set off down the Zambesi, +intending to cross the river at Wankie's Town and strike north along his +old route of eleven years before. In the light of his subsequent +adventures amongst the Mashukulumbwe it is here necessary to say +something of his coloured companions on this eventful trip. There was +Daniel, a Hottentot waggon-driver; Paul, a Natal Zulu; Charley, an +interpreter who had been trained amongst Westbeech's elephant-hunters; +and two of Khama's men. All these were well armed with modern +breechloading rifles. Besides these men he had four Mashunas who had +served him on former expeditions, and whom he could trust in an +emergency. Other boys were hired at Panda-ma-tenka, and with these and +the donkeys carrying the outfit Selous set forth for Wankie's Town with +complete confidence. + +Having arrived at Wankie's Town in eight days, the donkeys having been +safely towed across the river, troubles now began. Daniel, the +Hottentot, developed fever and died in four days, and then the boys whom +he had hired at Panda-ma-tenka deserted. Selous, however, managed to get +on with his own small lot, and even hired a few Batongas. But soon old +Shampondo, the Batonga chief of the district, came and demanded further +presents, bringing at the same time a small Batonga army to enforce his +views. For a moment there was nearly trouble, as Selous' "boys" loaded +their rifles at the threatening aspect of the natives, but their master, +with his usual tact in dealing with savages, saved the situation, though +he was not allowed to proceed without further extortion. Selous knew +that later he would have to pass through the territory of Mwemba, "the +biggest scoundrel" amongst the Batongas, so he importuned Shamedza to +give him porters and to help as far as the Zongwi river, and this the +chief did. + +The reason of these extortions was that the Batonga chiefs were afraid +of the white men because of their own evil deeds. Although they had seen +no Europeans since Dr. Livingstone, his brother, and Kirk, several +Jesuit fathers had been as far as the Zambesi and had died or been +maltreated. David Thomas had also been murdered by the Batongas, as well +as a Portuguese trader. Selous knew that if he followed the Zambesi as +far as the Kafukwe he was certain to be attacked and probably murdered. +Accordingly he decided to strike due north to the Mashukulumbwe in spite +of their evil reputation. + +Next day he reached the Muga and the following crossed the Kachomba +river, and on the third day came to the Mwedzia, where he was able to +hire a few useful men. During the following day he marched over what he +describes as the "roughest country to walk over in the whole world," +stony and barren conical hills devoid of game or water. On the third day +he emerged into better country covered with forest and good grass, and +here at a village he picked up a guide to take him to Monzi, a Batonga +chief, who lived on a high plateau which was said to abound in game. + +The following day he reached the plateau and saw abundance of zebra, +Liechtenstein's hartebeest, blue wildebeest, roan antelope, and eland. +Later he interviewed old Monzi, who told him he had seen no white man +since the visit of Dr. Livingstone thirty-five years before. The natives +were very friendly, as Selous gave them an eland and a zebra he had +shot, and all seemed to go well. At Monzi's the traveller got two guides +to take him to the Kafukwe, and at the second village he struck he found +himself for the first time amongst the naked Mashukulumbwe. Here a lot +of Sikabenga's men (Barotsi) arrived with a crowd of armed +Mashukulumbwe, and said they had come to buy ammunition. The attitude of +the natives was suspicious, and when Selous refused either to sell them +powder or to go with them, they said: "You will live two days more, but +on the third day your head will lie in a different place from your +body." + +Selous, however, paid no heed to their threats, and that day proceeded +on his journey, telling his guides to proceed east to the Mashukulumbwe +villages and intending to camp in the open veldt. Paul and Charley, who +both had experience with natives north of the Zambesi, agreed that this +was the best policy, but "we unfortunately allowed ourselves to be +dissuaded and led into the jaws of death by our ignorant guides." These +men said the party would find no water on the plateau but only in the +villages, so there they went. + +At the second village the natives were frightened, and, avoiding this +place, they pressed on over a veldt teeming with game to the Ungwesi +river. Here Selous camped at a village where, after preliminary shyness, +the natives seemed fairly friendly and showed the hunter where to camp +and get wood and water. At the Magoi-ee Selous found himself in a highly +populated district and camped at a village where lived Minenga, the +chief of the district. That worthy insisted on Selous camping alongside +the village and would take no refusal. Accordingly Selous found himself +in the lions' den, as it were, and felt he must brave it out now if +anything went wrong, so he set to work to make a "scherm" of cornstalks +and plant-poles to secure the donkeys. + +After a while things did not look so bad, as the natives abandoned their +spears and came and joined in a dance with the Batonga boys. Then, too, +the women and girls came down and ate with Selous' men--usually a sure +sign of peace. By nightfall Selous viewed the whole scene and felt he +had no cause for alarm, and felt he had quite gained the goodwill of +these savages. At nine o'clock, when Selous was already in bed, Minenga +sent him a message to come to drink, but, as he was tired, he did not +go. In the light of subsequent events, Selous was glad he had not +accepted the invitation, for he would certainly have been murdered. The +dance and noisy musical instruments were intended to drown any noise +that might have occurred. + +Next day Selous hunted, and later, when in camp, was surrounded by great +crowds of natives which, however, left at sundown. + + "I could not sleep, however, and was lying under my blanket, + thinking of many things, and revolving various plans in my head, + when about nine o'clock I observed a man come cautiously round + the end of our scherm and pass quickly down the line of + smouldering fires. As he stopped beside the fire, near the foot + of Paul and Charley's blankets, I saw that he was one of the two + men who had accompanied us as guides from Monzi's. I saw him + kneel down and shake Paul by the leg, and then heard him + whispering to him hurriedly and excitedly. Then I heard Paul say + to Charley, 'Tell our master the news; wake him up.' I at once + said, 'What is it, Charley? I am awake.' 'The man says, sir, + that all the women have left the village, and he thinks that + something is wrong,' he answered. I thought so too, and hastily + pulled on my shoes, and then put on my coat and cartridge-belt, + in which, however, there were only four cartridges. As I did so, + I gave orders to my boys to extinguish all the fires, which they + instantly did by throwing sand on the embers, so that an intense + darkness at once hid everything within our scherm. + + "Paul and Charley were now sitting on their blankets with their + rifles in their hands, and I went and held a whispered + conversation with them, proposing to Paul that he and I should + creep round the village and reconnoitre, and listen if possible + to what the inhabitants were talking about. 'Wait a second,' I + said, 'whilst I get out a few more cartridges,' and I was just + leaning across my blankets to get at the bag containing them + when three guns went off almost in my face, and several more at + different points round the scherm. The muzzles of all these guns + were within our scherm when they were discharged, so that our + assailants must have crawled right up to the back of our camp + and fired through the interstices between the cornstalks. The + three shots that were let off just in front of me were doubtless + intended for Paul, Charley, and myself, but by great good luck + none of us was hit. As I stooped to pick up my rifle, which was + lying on the blankets beside me, Paul and Charley jumped up and + sprang past me. 'Into the grass!' I called to them in Dutch, and + prepared to follow. The discharge of the guns was immediately + followed by a perfect shower of barbed javelins, which I could + hear pattering on the large leathern bags in which most of our + goods were packed, and then a number of Mashukulumbwe rushed in + amongst us. + + "I can fairly say that I retained my presence of mind perfectly + at this juncture. My rifle, when I picked it up, was unloaded; + for, in case of accident, I never kept it loaded in camp, and I + therefore had first to push in a cartridge. As I have said + before, between our camp and the long grass lay a short space of + cleared ground, dug into irregular ridges and furrows. Across + this I retreated backwards, amidst a mixed crowd of my own boys + and Mashukulumbwe. + + "I did my best to get a shot into one of our treacherous + assailants, but in the darkness it was impossible to distinguish + friend from foe. Three times I had my rifle to my shoulder to + fire at a Mashukulumbwe, and as often someone who I thought was + one of my own boys came between. I was within ten yards of the + long grass, but with my back to it, when, with a yell, another + detachment of Mashukulumbwe rushed out of it to cut off our + retreat. At this juncture I fell backwards over one of the + ridges, and two men, rushing out of the grass, fell right over + me, one of them kicking me in the ribs and falling over my body, + whilst another fell over my legs. I was on my feet again in an + instant, and then made a rush for the long grass, which I + reached without mishap, and in which I felt comparatively safe. + I presently crept forwards for about twenty yards and then sat + still listening. Standing up again, I saw that the Mashukulumbwe + were moving about in our camp. It was, however, impossible to + see anyone with sufficient distinctness to get a shot, for + whenever one of the partially-extinguished fires commenced to + burn up again it was at once put out by having more sand thrown + over it. + + "But I now thought no more of firing at them. I had had time to + realise the full horror of my position. A solitary Englishman, + alone in Central Africa, in the middle of a hostile country, + without blankets or anything else but what he stood in and a + rifle with four cartridges. I doubt whether Mark Tapley himself + would have seen anything cheerful in the situation. Could I only + have found Paul or Charley or even one of my own Kafirs, I + thought my chance of getting back to Panda-ma-tenka would be + much increased, for I should then have an interpreter, I myself + knowing but little of the languages spoken north of the Zambesi. + I now began to quarter the grass cautiously backwards and + forwards, whistling softly, in hopes that some of my own boys + might be lying in hiding near me; but I could find no one, and + at length came to the conclusion that all those of my people who + had escaped death would make the most of the darkness and get as + far as possible from Minenga's before day-dawn, and I decided + that I had better do the same."[37] + +He therefore decided to strike for Monzi's, the first village where he +dared to show himself. First he made his way down to the ford on the +Magoi-ee, but luckily observed a party of men watching there. Selous +then retreated some 300 yards down stream and swam the river, which he +well knew was swarming with crocodiles. + + "The Mashukulumbwe I saw had now made up the fires, upon which + they were throwing bundles of grass, by the light of which I + presume they were dividing my property. I turned my back upon + this most melancholy spectacle and, taking the Southern Cross + for my guide, which was now almost down, commenced my lonely + journey." + +Selous' own account of his wanderings in his retreat from the +Mashukulumbwe to the Zambesi makes some of the most interesting reading +to be found in any book devoted to true adventure. Here he was, alone in +Africa, only furnished with his rifle and four cartridges, a knife, and +a few matches, and he had to overcome at least three hundred miles or +more before he dared approach a village. It was a position that might +have depressed any man except a genuine veldtsman, for that danger from +all natives was to be feared was a certainty, since they would not +hesitate to attack a single man whose life was wanted, just as one dog +always chases another running behind a cart. All night long he walked, +keeping a watchful eye for lions, and at the hill Karundu-ga-gongoma +next day he searched for spoor to see if any of his boys had come that +way, but there was no fresh sign, so he lay all day under a tree +watching the ford of the river. Here he heard voices, and thinking they +might be his own men he concealed himself and listened. Presently two +heads appeared above the grass and he recognized two Mashukulumbwe by +their cone-shaped head-dresses. They were evidently discussing the +imprint of the hunter's shoes left on the sand. Selous was ready to +shoot both if they saw him, but it was some relief when they turned and +went back the way they had come. Hunger now began to assert itself, and +the wanderer determined to shoot anything he could find, but, as his +stock of cartridges was so small, he had to make a certainty of each +shot. Luckily at this moment a single wildebeest came by within thirty +yards and furnished an abundant supply of meat. + +After a good dinner and the sun had set, Selous, shouldering his rifle +and a supply of meat, again struck south. At dawn, perished with cold, +he reached the last Mashukulumbwe village, and, being near Monzi's, he +determined to risk trouble, and entered the village. Here he found an +unarmed boy, who furnished him with water, but even as he drank it he +heard whispering in a hut close by and saw a man come out stealthily and +vanish in the darkness. Presently this man returned with a gun in his +hand, and later Selous heard him testing a bullet with the ramrod. All +was quiet for a time, however, and Selous sat dozing over the fire. Then +he awoke with a start, to find that two unarmed men had arrived and sat +by the fire close to him. They questioned him and he endeavoured to +answer them. + + "In endeavouring to do so to the best of my ability, I kept + gradually turning more towards them, till presently my rifle lay + almost behind me. It was whilst I was in this position that I + heard someone behind me. I turned quickly round to clutch my + rifle, but was too late, for the man whom I had heard just + stooped and seized it before my own hand touched it, and, never + pausing, rushed off with it and disappeared in the darkness. I + sprang up, and at the same moment one of the two men who had + engaged me in conversation did so too, and, in the act of + rising, dropped some dry grass which he had hitherto concealed + beneath his large ox-hide rug on to the fire. There was at once + a blaze of light which lit up the whole of the open space around + the fire. My eyes instinctively looked towards the hut which I + had seen the man with the gun enter, and there, sure enough, he + sat in the doorway taking aim at me not ten yards from where I + sat. There was no time to remonstrate. I sprang out into the + darkness, seizing one of the pieces of wildebeest meat as I did + so; and, as the village was surrounded with long grass, pursuit + would have been hopeless, and was not attempted. My would-be + assassin never got off his shot."[38] + +Bad as his position had been, it was now far worse with the loss of his +rifle. His only hope was that Monzi might prove friendly, so, after +travelling all night, he reached Monzi's village. When that old chief +heard his story he said, "You must leave my village immediately. They +will follow you up and kill you. Be off! Be off instantly." Monzi was +not so bad as the rest, he filled Selous' pockets with ground-nuts, and +sent three men to take him a short distance, and these men strongly +advised him not to trust the Batongas, in whose country he now found +himself. After a meal it occurred to him that it would be a good plan to +make south-east to Marancinyan, the powerful Barotsi chief, and throw +himself on his protection. This chief was a friend of George Westbeech, +the Zambesi trader, but the difficulty was to find his village. Somewhat +unwisely, as it turned out, Selous visited some Batonga huts and asked a +man the footpath to Sikabenga's (Marancinyan) kraal. This man at once +roused the village, and a dozen armed men pursued and came up to Selous, +who faced them, but these men proved not unfriendly, and even showed him +the right track to follow. + +At last he reached Marancinyan's kraal and found the chief to be a tall, +well-built young fellow, and, as he spoke Sintabili fairly well, +conversation was easy. He did not treat the wanderer well, "yet had it +not been for him I should in all probability have been murdered by the +orders of his uncle. This, however, I only learnt some time afterwards, +and though for three days I must have lived constantly in the very +shadow of death, I had no idea at the time that my life was in danger." + +In three days Marancinyan told Selous that his life was in danger and +that the Mashukulumbwe had followed, demanding his death, and that he +must leave at once and go to a small Batonga village close by and wait +there till sundown, when he would bring guides. + +Disturbed and suspicious at this news, Selous knew the Mashukulumbwe +would never dare to threaten the well-armed Barotsi. However, he saw he +must comply and trust to the Barotsi chief's promise. Accordingly he +went off, but as Marancinyan did not appear Selous returned to his kraal +and thus boldly addressed him: "What do you mean, Marancinyan, who say +that you are George Westbeech's friend and the friend of all white men, +by sending me to sleep among your dogs? Have you given orders to murder +me in the night? If you want to kill me, you can do so here in your own +town." This seemed to have upset the chief, who again repeated that +Selous' life was in danger and that if he would go and sleep at the +Batonga village he would for certain bring guides to lead him to +Panda-ma-tenka. + +On the following morning the chief fulfilled his promise, and next day +Selous reached a Batonga village under one Shoma. Here he found a friend +who gave him fresh guides, and also heard the welcome news that ten of +his boys had slept in a village close by and were making for the village +of Shankopi far to the south. Here, five days later, Selous met with the +remnant of his party, who had for long given him up for lost. They were +very glad to greet their master, and "patted me on the breast and kissed +my hands." In the night attack it appears that twelve men were killed +and six more wounded out of the whole twenty-five. Everyone had had +narrow escapes. + + "Paul, the Zulu, got through the first rush of our assailants + unhurt, but was nearly drowned in crossing the river, where he + lost my single 10-bore rifle. Charley also got out of the scherm + unwounded, and, making his way to the river, there fell in with + two of our boys, and with their assistance crossed safely with + rifle, cartridge-belt, and clothes. I found that we had all done + the same thing, namely, held to the south through the night, + across country. Charley said he was close to me when I shot the + wildebeest; he heard the shot, and ran with the two boys in the + direction, but never saw me. I fancy he must have passed me + whilst I was cooking the meat, as I was then in a deep hollow. + He too had been seen and pursued in the daytime near the village + where my rifle was captured, but again escaped in the long + grass. This had also happened to the survivor of the two + Mangwato men, who, being likewise alone and unarmed, had + incautiously approached a village. He said that one man got + close up to him and threw three assegais at him, one of which + cut his right hand. At last, however, he outran him and escaped. + Neither Paul, Charley, nor the rest had gone near Monzi's, or + any other village, being afraid of the inhabitants, but had kept + through the veldt, and only cut into our trail beyond the hill + U-Kesa-Kesa. Here Charley shot a zebra, and was shortly + afterwards joined by Paul, who had then been three days without + food. Farther on Charley shot another zebra, and here he and + Paul remained for three days more, hoping that I would turn up, + and collecting all the other survivors of our party."[39] + +After this all danger and most of the hardship were past. They got +provisions, and in a few days crossed the Zambesi, and three days later +reached the waggons at Panda-ma-tenka. Thus it took the party about +three weeks to cross three hundred miles of country since the night of +the attack by the Mashukulumbwe. + +In time Selous was able to piece together the reasons why he was +attacked by the Mashukulumbwe. The actual cause of the trouble was due +to Sikabenga's uncle, who sent a party of men north after Selous to get +powder from him at all costs, even if they had to kill him. These were +the men Selous met the day he left Monzi's. Then the hunter refusing +them powder, they followed him up and induced the Mashukulumbwe to +attack him. One of the Barotsi warriors was left in a village beyond +Monzi's, having fallen sick, and this was the man who tried to shoot +Selous and failed. + +Sikabenga, who had acted on his uncle's instructions, but was really +anxious to save the white man's life, was therefore in a quandary when +Selous appeared and threw himself on his protection, and especially so +when he expected the loot from Selous' camp to arrive at any moment. +That was why he was so anxious to get him out of the village, for if +Selous had observed Sikabenga's complicity in the attack that chief +would have been obliged to order his murder. But Sikabenga himself did +not long survive in this land of battle, murder, and sudden death, for a +Matabele impi crossed the Zambesi in August, 1889, and killed him and +most of his people. + +Most men, having gone through such exciting experiences, would have been +content to have given African savages a wide berth for a long period +afterwards, but not so Selous, whose reckless disposition he himself +describes as "nearly equal to that of the Wandering Jew." But a few days +elapsed and he was again planning a journey across the Zambesi to visit +Lewanika, the head chief of the Barotsi, with the purpose of selling to +him some of his salted horses and getting permission to hunt elephants +in the unknown country north of the Kabompo river in the following year. + +After shooting five elands to furnish meat at his main camp during his +absence, Selous crossed the Zambesi, towing his horses behind a canoe. +From here he moved westwards to the Ungwesi river. After crossing the +Kasaia the horses ran away, but were recovered after they had passed +through some belts of "fly" country, but as the day was cloudy and a +high wind blowing no serious results were to be feared. When the horses +turned up, the party moved on to Sesheki, where Selous met two +missionaries, branch workers belonging to Mr. Coillard's mission, long +established in Barotsiland. + +After leaving Sesheki's the road led through "fly" country, which was +traversed by night, and, crossing the Loanja, a dull, comparatively +gameless country was traversed, until the party reached Sefula and +Lialui in the main Barotsi valley. Here Selous met Mr. and Mrs. +Coillard, who did so much for this country and who survived the +pestilential climate for many years. + +Selous was well received by Lewanika, who was perhaps the most +enlightened black chief in all South Africa with perhaps the exception +of Khama. With him he did some good trading. It was interesting to +observe the attitude of the natives to their chief when an audience was +granted. + + "When strangers came in, they saluted the chief most + ceremoniously. First they would kneel down in a row, and after + clapping their hands, bend their heads forward until their + foreheads touched the ground, when the head was moved slowly + from side to side; then, raising their heads again, they would + look towards the chief, and throwing their arms quickly and + wildly into the air would shout twice in unison, and in slow + measured tones, the words 'So-yo, so-yo.' This ceremony would be + twice repeated, when, after clapping their hands again, they + would get up and retire." + +Selous found the Barotsi valley enervating and far from interesting, +although birds were numerous in the swamplands. Cranes, storks, avocets, +spoonbills, herons, bitterns, egrets, wattled and spur-winged plovers, +stilts, dotterel, and curlew were abundant and afforded him some +amusement in watching their habits, but the large game, except lechwe, +were rare. Beyond Sinanga to the west the scenery became more beautiful, +and here the hunter found tracks of elephants and large herds of +buffalo. He also visited the Falls of the Gonyi, which few travellers +had ever seen. At the mouth of the River Nangombi his boatmen killed a +huge reed-rat, like an immense guinea-pig, which Selous believed was an +animal new to science. Next day a disaster befell one of the canoes, +which was sunk in twelve feet of water by a hippopotamus, and the +traveller was only able to recover a small portion of its valuable +cargo. Soon after this he turned back and reached his waggons on the +12th of October, going south in December, and reaching Bamangwato early +in January, 1889. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[32] J. A. Jameson, a brother of J. S. Jameson. + +[33] A. C. Fountaine, of Narford Hall, Norfolk. + +[34] Frank Cooper, of Bulwell Hall, Notts, another well-known big game +hunter of his period who had had in previous years excellent sport with +wapiti in Colorado, where he and his brother secured some remarkable +heads. + +[35] For Selous' own account of these caves and their discovery see +"Proc. Geographical Soc.," May, 1888. + +[36] Selous was a regular contributor to the Geographical Society's +Journal. In course of time the Society honoured his discoveries by +giving him the Cuthbert Peek grant, the Back Premium and the Founder's +Gold Medal. + +[37] "Travel and Adventure in S.E. Africa," pp. 221-224. + +[38] "Travel and Adventure in S.E. Africa," p. 232. + +[39] "Travel and Adventure in S.E. Africa," p. 241. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII +1889-1892 + + +Early in 1889 Selous met Frank Johnson at Bamangwato and was asked by +him to act as guide for a gold prospecting expedition to the upper +regions of the Mazoe River. As it was then impossible to conduct such an +expedition through Matabeleland, Lobengula having closed all the roads, +Selous, accompanied by Mr. Burnett and Mr. Thomas, an experienced miner, +travelled by sea to Quilimani, in Portuguese territory, and then to +Lokoloko on the Quaqua by boat, and thence overland to Mazaro on the +Zambesi. From here the party travelled up-stream to Tete, where the +Governor, Senhor Alfredo Alpuina, neither helped nor hindered them to +any extent. Selous had orders to mark out gold-bearing areas in +Portuguese territory, but from the first had difficulty with his porters +(Shakundas), who were fearful of meeting the natives of Motoko, with +whom the Portuguese had been at war. + +On August 18th the travellers left Tete, and went first towards Zumbo +and then south to the Kangadzi and Kansawa rivers, where they met a +troop of lions, one of which, a lioness, Burnett killed. On September +1st twenty-nine out of forty-two carriers bolted, and their loss was +more or less made good by men from surrounding villages. At the kraal of +a chief, Maziwa, they were subjected to the usual extortion, which +excited the remaining Shakunda carriers to practise a little blackmail. +Things got so bad that Selous decided to destroy a good part of his +trade goods and to push on in spite of Maziwa's threats. A short retreat +was, however, necessary, and the remaining Shakunda carriers, except one +who remained faithful, were dismissed. From Rusambo a fresh start was +made. Near the head of the Umkaradsi Valley Selous found a fine unnamed +mountain, which he called Mount Darwin, after the illustrious +naturalist, and then pushed on to Mapondera's kraal, which was in the +centre of a gold-bearing district. Mapondera, chief of the Makori-kori, +was a powerful chief, and from him Selous obtained a mineral concession, +and got him to sign a paper to the effect that he considered himself in +no way under Portuguese rule. This was important, for at this time the +Portuguese, although holding none of the country, considered that they +owned Mashunaland. + +Having concluded his business, Selous decided to try and fix the actual +source of the Mazoe, which was then unknown. Accordingly, he and Burnett +started off on their wanderings, leaving Thomas, who was ill with fever, +at Mapondera's kraal. + +We need not follow the travels of Selous and his companions in their +subsequent journeys, for Selous' own survey of this country and his +remarks on Mount Hampden and its neighbourhood, are published in the +Journals of the Royal Geographical Society. Suffice it to say, that on +October 10th Selous and Burnett returned to Rusambo, after having +carefully surveyed the adjoining country. The party then struck down the +Ruenya river, where they killed some hippopotami, and reached Tete again +on October 23rd. Here Selous had a stormy interview with the Governor, +who accused him of being an agent of the British Government, and +demanded the document made between himself and Mapondera. This, however, +Selous declined to agree to, but eventually gave him a copy. After this +the party had no further trouble, and reached Cape Town early in +December. + +At this time (1890) all circumstances seemed to point to the fact that +unless the British Government took possession of Mashunaland the +Portuguese intended to do so. In 1888 Lord Salisbury had proclaimed it +to be within the sphere of British influence, and said that he would not +recognize the claims of Portugal unless that country could show +occupation. It was therefore, in Selous' opinion at any rate, clear that +the Portuguese expeditions of 1889 made against local chiefs in the +North-East, were undertaken to prove conquest and ownership, for at this +time no Englishman was domiciled nearer Mashunaland than Matabeleland. + +In view therefore of coming trouble Selous, who was then aware of +Rhodes' schemes, wrote this letter to the "Selous Syndicate," setting +forth the extreme importance of establishing occupation at once by +British pioneers, or the valuable country of Mashunaland would be lost +to us. On reaching Cape Town he at once proceeded to Kimberley, and was +delighted to find that Mr. Rhodes fully concurred with his views, and +was determined that the country should be occupied in the cause of the +British South African Company during the coming year (1890). Selous then +laid before him his idea of cutting a road passing from the south-east +of Matabeleland due north to the Portuguese frontier. This scheme Rhodes +did not at first approve of,[40] but he afterwards accepted it in its +entirety. + + "It is due to Mr. Cecil Rhodes alone," writes Selous, "I cannot + too often repeat, that to-day our country's flag flies over + Mashunaland. He alone of all Englishmen possessed at the same + time the prescience and breadth of mind to appreciate the + ultimate value of the country, combined with the strong will + which, in spite of all obstacles, impelled the means and the + power successfully to carry out the scheme of its immediate + occupation. What the acquisition of this vast country means is + as yet scarcely apparent to the great majority of Englishmen, + perhaps to none who are not acquainted with the history of South + Africa during the present century, or who have not watched the + giant strides which have taken place in its development during + the last twenty years. But, in the not distant future, when + quick and easy communications into Mashunaland have been + established, and the many difficulties which now hamper the + development of this the youngest of British colonies have been + overcome, then I think Englishmen will be able to appreciate + what they owe to Mr. Rhodes for inaugurating a new departure in + South African history, and securing for his countrymen the first + 'show in' in a country which must ultimately become a very + valuable possession." + +By the end of 1889 Rhodes drew up his plan of occupation, which was +approved by Sir Henry Loch, High Commissioner for South Africa, and +other authorities. The guidance of the expedition was left entirely in +the hands of Selous. The route of the road to be cut was from the +Macloutsie river, over the high plateaux of Fort Charter and Salisbury, +and north to Manica. + +In January, 1890, Selous wrote his letter to the "Times," which gave a +very complete survey of the Portuguese and British claims, as well as a +general description of the country it was proposed to occupy. + + In February and March he made a flying visit to Bulawayo, where + he saw Lobengula, who gave him a message for Cecil Rhodes. + Writing from Palapswi, on March 26th, he says: "I got back the + day before yesterday from Matabeleland and leave to-morrow for + Kimberley. I am the bearer of a message from Lobengula to Mr. + Cecil Rhodes. He promises to come to an understanding with Mr. + Rhodes as to the opening up of Mashunaland if Rhodes will go up + to Bulawayo and arrange with him personally. I am going to try + and persuade Mr. Rhodes to accompany me back to Bulawayo + immediately. I hope he will be able to go, and trust some + satisfactory arrangement may be come to. Still, I distrust + Lobengula and his people. Things are in such a condition just now + regarding Matabeleland and Mashunaland that it is quite + impossible to tell what may happen. Everything may be settled + peaceably (or forcibly) this year. Or again, the High + Commissioner may forbid any expedition to be made this year + against the wish of Lobengula. The question is a very strange + one. The Charter was granted to the South African Company on the + strength of their having obtained a concession from Lobengula for + the mineral rights in Matabele- and Mashunaland. These rights + were really bought, and a lot of money was paid to Lobengula + directly, and to his people indirectly, by the agents of the + Company. Now it seems as if Lobengula was inclined to disallow + Europeans to work for gold, either in Matabele- or Mashunaland. + In order to avoid trouble, the Company now wish to waive their + rights in Matabeleland proper, where they would necessarily come + in contact with the Matabele people, and to exploit and develop + Mashunaland, a country to which the Matabele have no just title. + In order to do this without coming into contact with Lobengula + and his people, the Company now wish to make a road to + Mashunaland that shall not touch Matabeleland at all, but pass to + the south of that country, and it is quite possible that + Lobengula and his people, fearing to let whites get beyond him + and establish themselves in Mashunaland, will try and prevent + this road being made. At present the political situation in + England is a most ridiculous one as regards Mashunaland. Lord + Salisbury has warned the Portuguese out of it, saying that it is + to him the sphere of British influence, and now Lobengula will + not allow British subjects or any white men to enter his country + as long as he can keep them out. I abhor the Matabele, yet I + would not have them interfered with or their country invaded + without a _casus belli_; but that they should keep Europeans out + of Mashunaland is preposterous." + +In March, 1890, Selous was sent up to Palapswi with instructions to get +men from Khama to cut a waggon-road to the eastern border of his +country. He was, moreover, to be assisted by some Matabele in this +critical work, and so visited Lobengula at Bulawayo to explain the +objects in view. Lobengula, however, denied having ever given Dr. +Jameson any promise about assisting in the making of the road, and +firmly asserted that he would not allow it to be made. He said that he +would not discuss matters with any of Rhodes' emissaries, and that if +there was to be any talk the "Big White Chief" himself must come to +visit him. Wherefore Selous returned to Kimberley and saw Mr. Rhodes, +who sent Dr. Jameson, and with him Selous then returned to Tati. + +Meanwhile a considerable force, about four hundred white men, had been +gathered at the Macloutsie with the intention of occupying Mashunaland, +whether the Matabele liked it or not. Selous himself was sent +eastward to pick out a good line for a waggon-road as far as the Shashi +and Tuli rivers--which survey he concluded by May. It was during one of +these journeys he was lucky enough to find and kill the best koodoo bull +he ever saw, a magnificent specimen, 60 inches long on the curve and +45-3/8 straight. By the 10th of June the waggon-track to Tuli was open. + +[Illustration: ON THE MASHUNA PLATEAU.] + +The pioneer expedition now moved, with the scouts in front; the Matabele +threatened to attack, but did not do so, and Selous, with his scouting +parties in advance and covered by Khama's mounted men, commenced cutting +the long road from the Macloutsie to Mount Hampden, a distance of four +hundred and sixty miles. As each section of the road was cut the main +expeditionary force followed after. About the worst section was between +the Umzingwane and the Umshabetse rivers, a desolate thirst-land; but +this was passed in three days. This territory, which I visited in 1893, +was claimed by the Matabele, and includes the King's private +hunting-ground, and the pioneers expected every moment to be attacked; +so every precaution was taken, the mounted men keeping a sharp watch and +the axe-men doing the cutting. + + From the Umshabetse river Selous wrote to his mother (July 13th, + 1890): "I am here with an advanced party of the pioneer + force--forty men--all mounted. We have already cut nearly 120 + miles of road from the B.S.A. Company's camp on the Macloutsie + river, and are now on the borders of the Banyai country. We are + already far to the east of all the inhabited part of + Matabeleland and are now going north-east, always keeping more + than 150 miles as the crow flies from Bulawayo. So far we have + seen nothing of the Matabele. We are, however, taking every + precaution against surprise, and always have scouts out in front + and several miles behind us on the road who do not come in till + after dark. We keep watch all night, too, with relays of guards. + Should a large impi come down to attack us, we shall simply + abandon our waggons and retire on the main body, which is now + coming on, on the road we have made. Our main body is composed + of four hundred good men, besides fifty native mounted scouts + supplied by Khama. If we can get two hours' notice of the + approach of the Matabele, just sufficient time to have all the + waggons put into 'laager' on the old Boer plan, Lobengula's men + can do nothing to us. If they attack us in 'laager' they must + suffer fearful loss. The young men want to fight, but Lobengula + and the older men want peace. However, do not be downhearted, + dearest mother. Personally, I hope there will be no fighting." + +On July 18th the main column caught up the roadmakers at the Umshabetse +river, and on August 1st the Lunti river was reached. Selous now scouted +ahead and found an easy road to the plateau ahead, and by "Providential +Pass" the expedition eventually emerged from the forest into the open +country. + +Whilst they were cutting the road from the Lunti to Fort Victoria an +ultimatum was received from Lobengula by Colonel Pennefather that he +must turn back at once, unless he "thought he was strong enough to go +on," and warning him to expect trouble if he did so. + +By this time, however, Lobengula had lost his best chance of attacking +the expeditionary force, for they had now emerged on the open downs; yet +it is a wonder he managed to keep his young men in check. Had he +attacked in the bush country it is doubtful if our forces, even if they +had not met with a reverse, would have been able to proceed. At any rate +intense excitement prevailed in Matabeleland, and many new impis of +warriors were formed ready to take action. + +On September 1st the expedition reached the source of the Umgezi, where +Fort Charter was established; so that by September 30th the Company had +a continuous chain of forts and posts over eight hundred miles from Tuli +to Fort Salisbury. Here Selous left the expedition, as he was the only +man who knew the surrounding country, and it was essential for him to go +with Mr. A. R. Colquhoun to confer with Umtasa, the chief of Manica. On +September 14th a treaty was agreed to by which the British South Africa +Company acquired and took possession of a large area of auriferous +country--much to the annoyance of the Portuguese, who claimed it. +Treaties were concluded with all the other chiefs except Motoko, whom +Selous visited early in November. The Portuguese, however, did not give +up their claims without some show of force, for when Major Forbes went +down to take over parts of Manica he had trouble with the Portuguese, +and had to arrest Colonel d'Andrada and others, to avoid bloodshed; and +for safety sent his prisoners to Fort Salisbury. + +Before reaching Salisbury at the end of November, Selous spent three +months altogether in travelling through the northern and eastern +districts of Mashunaland and concluding treaties of amity with all the +native chiefs. This, besides mapping and literary work--describing the +country--occupied his time till the middle of December, when he again +visited Motoko, chief of the Mabudja, to obtain a treaty of friendship, +as well as a mineral concession, in which he was quite successful. In +October he wrote home from Mangwendi's kraal praising the climate of +Eastern Mashunaland, and evidently in high spirits at the great success +of the pioneer expedition. "The opening up of Mashunaland seems like a +dream, and I have played a not unimportant part in it all, I am proud to +say. The road to Mashunaland is now being called the 'Selous Road,' and +I hope the name will endure, though I don't suppose it will. At any +rate, the making of the road was entrusted _entirely_ to me and I did my +work to everyone's satisfaction. An old Boer officer said to me, just +before the expedition started, 'I think that the expedition without Mr. +Selous would be like a swarm of bees that has lost its Queen and does +not know where to go to.' Yet it is too bad of me to sing my own +praises, but I do feel most proud at the share I had in putting it +through, _the whole idea, too, of making the road at all and thus +circumventing the Matabele and gaining possession of Mashunaland was my +own_. I proposed it to Rhodes in Kimberley on my return from the Zambesi +last December. At first he did not like the idea; but after thinking it +over, resolved to try and carry it out, with the result that Mashunaland +is now practically a British province. + + "Before the rainy season is over, the Company will probably have + come to some definite understanding with Lobengula, who, by the + by, recognized my importance in the expedition by sending down a + message to Sir Henry Loch, the High Commissioner, that 'Selous + had turned his oxen and his horses into his (Lobengula's) + cornfields.'" + + Writing from Motoko's kraal on November 16th, he says: "Before + coming here, I have had no difficulty with any of the other + chiefs, but here I have had a lot of worry and trouble. My great + difficulty is that the whole country is really ruled, not by the + chief (Motoko) but by one whom they call the 'Lion-God.' This + appears to be a hereditary office, and the holder of it lives + away by himself in the mountains, and is looked upon with + superstitious dread and reverence by the Chief and his people. + However, I have now got things on a friendly footing, but I + shall have to go back to Fort Salisbury, in order to get certain + articles to appease the 'Lion-God,' and then return here before + I shall finally be able to conclude the treaty with Motoko. I am + under engagement to the Company till the end of next August, and + do not think I shall take a fresh engagement, as I am anxious to + get home. Having passed the best part of my life in the + wilderness and amongst savages, I should now like to see + something of civilized countries, with perhaps an occasional + short trip into an out-of-the-way place. If I live to be an old + man, I should like to re-visit this country, thirty or forty + years hence, by railroad." + +In January, 1891, he returned to Umtali, where he received orders to cut +a road from that place to Lower Revui, and afterwards to lay a new road +from the Odzi river to Salisbury. February was the wet season, so it was +with some difficulty that he set about his task on the Odzi in company +with Mr. W. L. Armstrong. On May 3rd, however, he had made one hundred +and fifty miles of road to Salisbury, riding three strong horses to a +standstill in his numerous peregrinations. Then news reached him of +further trouble with the Portuguese, and he was asked by Mr. Colquhoun +to take two waggon-loads of stores and ammunition to the small British +garrison isolated at Manica, where there was an imminent prospect of +fighting. Whereat he expresses his views clearly as to his own +inclinations as regards soldiering. "Now I am not a fighting man, and +neither look forward with enthusiasm to the prospect of being shot, nor +feel any strong desire to shoot anyone else." + +However, he regarded the matter, as he always did when called upon, as a +duty, and left at once for Manica with Lieutenant Campbell and twenty +ex-pioneers. On May 13th the party reached Umtali, where they heard that +the Portuguese had made a sortie from Massi-Kessi, and had attacked +Captain Heyman's camp near Chua. The Portuguese troops, numbering one +hundred whites and blacks from Angola, however, had shot so badly that +no one was hit and soon lost heart and bolted back to Massi-Kessi, which +was soon after occupied by our forces. To his mother he wrote from +Umtali, May 20th, 1891:-- + + "I got down here on the 13th by the new road I have made for the + Company, with about twenty men and two waggon-loads of + provisions, and we were astonished to hear that a fight had + already taken place near Massi-Kessi on the afternoon of the + 11th, and I will now tell you what has actually taken place. It + appears that on the 5th of this month the Portuguese reoccupied + Massi-Kessi, with a force consisting of about one hundred white + soldiers and three or four hundred black troops. Thereupon + Captain Heyman went over from here (Umtali Camp) to near + Massi-Kessi with fifty men and a seven-pounder cannon, and a lot + of Umtasa's men, to protest against the invasion of Umtasa's + country. Two days later, Captain Heyman and Lieutenant Morier (a + son of Sir Robert Morier, British Ambassador at St. Petersburg) + went down to Massi-Kessi with a flag of truce, to interview + Ferreira, the Commander of the Portuguese forces, and the + Governor of Manica. Ferreira told him that he was at + Massi-Kessi, in accordance with the terms of the _modus vivendi_ + which the Company's forces were breaking, by being at Umtali, + and said that he would drive the Company's men out of the + country. Captain Heyman then said that he had better not do + anything before the expiration of the _modus vivendi_, to which + he replied that he would attack him whenever he thought fit to + do so. Captain Heyman's position was on a hill about five miles + from Massi-Kessi. On the 10th, I think, one of the Portuguese + officers came up with a flag of truce, evidently to see what + number of men Captain Heyman had with him. He only saw about + fifteen, as all the rest were lying down in the long grass, and + it must have been from his report that an attack was resolved + upon. Captain Heyman told me that he was immensely surprised to + see the Portuguese troops swarming out of Massi-Kessi at about 2 + p.m. on the 11th. They advanced in two bodies, led by the + Portuguese officers. Captain Heyman first fired a blank charge + with the cannon to which they paid no attention, and then seeing + that they meant business the firing commenced in earnest. The + firing lasted two hours. The Portuguese officers did all they + could to get their men on, and behaved very well indeed; but + their men evidently did not relish the business, and after + making two attempts to reach a hill which would have commanded + Captain Heyman's position, broke and fled back to Massi-Kessi. + Not a single man of the Company's force was hit, but the + Portuguese lost an officer (Captain Bettencourt), and it is + believed about twenty men. Early next morning Captain Heyman + sent a man down to Massi-Kessi with a flag of truce, offering + the services of the doctor, and when he got there he found the + place deserted. For some unaccountable reason the Portuguese had + deserted the place, leaving nine machine-guns, ammunition, and + stores and provisions of all kinds behind them. It is thought + that a panic set in amongst the black troops, and the white + Portuguese were afraid to remain behind without them. The whole + affair is very inglorious to the Portuguese arms, and will have + a great effect on their prestige with the natives. Of course + Massi-Kessi was seized and looted by the northern barbarians, + and has now been blown up and destroyed. Everybody is longing + for another Portuguese expedition to come up, as then there will + be a chance of more loot. What will happen now it is impossible + to say, but I think that the British Government must step in, + and either order the Company to leave Manica, or else support it + against the Portuguese, in which case they will be unable to do + anything of importance. They will now, I think, have great + difficulty in getting up here, as the natives are all hostile to + them and all their carriers will have to be brought from other + parts. The country, too, is a very difficult one to travel + through. I shall be very glad when things are settled, as + Mashunaland will be kept back until they are. I have been down + with Colonel Pennefather, as I told you, on a reconnaissance + about thirty miles beyond Massi-Kessi, on the track of the + Portuguese, and they have evidently beaten a hasty retreat." + +Immediately after this fiasco Selous went down to Umliwan's kraal, +situated between the Pungwi and the Busi rivers, to fetch away the +abandoned waggons. One night, whilst on the return journey, the camp was +attacked by five lions and an ox killed. Next morning Selous, of course, +went after them, but failed to get a shot. The following night he made a +small hut close to the carcase of the ox, and into this Selous and +Armstrong crept at sunset, and the night's adventure as described by +Selous[41] is one of the best stories he ever wrote. The lions kept +continually returning to the carcase. Several shots were fired and two +lionesses and a hyena killed, but one wounded lion succeeded in +escaping. + +Although he says little of it at the time, Selous did an immense amount +of tramping to and fro, all footwork because of the "fly," in the +unhealthy country, both contiguous to and in the Portuguese territory +about the Pungwi and Busi rivers in 1891 and 1892, in the hope of +finding a road to the East Coast that would be free from the tsetse fly +and where waggons could pass. In this he was unsuccessful, and he was +reluctantly forced to admit that a railway would be the only method of +transport to the coast, and that until this was made no progress was +possible. However, his journeys carried him for the first time into the +last great haunt of game south of the Zambesi, for at this time the +whole of the territory in the neighbourhood of these rivers was one huge +game reserve which, owing to its unhealthiness, was seldom visited by +sportsmen or even meat-hunters. And so it continued till 1896, when the +rinderpest swept off nine-tenths of the koodoos, elands and buffalo. +Since that day the game recovered in a measure, and even to-day there is +more game there than anywhere south of the Zambesi, but it contains a +shadow of its former abundance at the time when Selous first visited it. +Practically Selous was the first white man to see this great assembly of +game and to hunt them, for the Portuguese were not hunters and never +left the footpaths. He found vast herds of buffaloes in the reed-beds, +bushbucks as tame as in the Garden of Eden stood gazing at a few yards +and did not fly at the approach of man, whilst out on the plains there +was a constant procession of Liechtenstein's hartebeest, blue +wildebeests, tsessebes, water-bucks, zebras, and here and there were +always scattered parties of reedbucks, oribis, and the smaller +antelopes. Wart-hogs and bush-pigs were equally tame and confiding, and +hippopotami disported in the rivers and lagoons in broad daylight, and +there was not a night that several troops of lions were not heard +roaring. Yet curiously enough, in spite of the abundance of the +last-named, Selous only saw three individuals, one of which he killed +after it had charged twice. This, he says, was the last of "thirty-one +lions I have shot."[42] This number does not tally with the statement, +"I have only shot twenty-five lions when entirely by myself,"[43] but +the discrepancy is accounted for by the fact that he killed six lions +between 1893 and 1896. + +The opening up of the new country proceeded rapidly till June, 1892, +when Selous wrote to his mother from Salisbury:-- + + "The telegraph wire is now at Fort Charter, and before the end + of next month the office will be opened here in Salisbury, and + Mashunaland will be in telegraph communication with the whole of + the civilized world. This, if you come to think of it, is really + a magnificent piece of enterprise. We are having the most lovely + weather up here, although it is the middle of summer and the + rainy season; nice cool cloudy days, with showers of rain + occasionally, but nothing worth speaking of. The Government + buildings are progressing rapidly. We now have an abundance of + vegetables here. Everything thrives marvellously, potatoes, + cabbage, onions, shalots, radishes, lettuces, etc. etc. Wheat + sowed in August last by the head of the Africander Bond + deputation, ripened and was cut in four months and a few days + from the date of sowing, and has been sent down to Cape Town. + Major Johnson's agricultural expert pronounced it to be as fine + a sample of wheat as he had ever seen, and says he will be able + to raise two crops a year. In fact, the country is now proved to + be an exceptionally fine one for both agriculture and + stock-farming, in spite of Mr. Labouchere and Lord Randolph + Churchill. The gold prospects are also improving, and many of + Mr. Perkins' prognostications have already been falsified. I + think there is no doubt that this country will have a grand + future, but the development will be very slow for some time yet; + in fact, until a railway has been made from the East coast, at + least as far as Manica. Once this railway has been built, + however, the country must be developed very quickly, I think. + All impartial persons agree that the climate on this plateau is + cooler and altogether more enjoyable than that of Kimberley and + many other parts of civilized South Africa; but, of course, + directly one leaves the plateau and gets into the low + bush-country towards the Zambesi, the East coast, or the + Transvaal, fever is rife during the rainy season. Unfortunately, + most of the gold-belts are in this unhealthy zone, and until the + bush is cut down, the land cultivated, and good houses are built + round the mines, miners will suffer from fever in the bad + season; but this is the same in all new countries. I am now + going down to make a road from Manica to the other side of + Massi-Kessi, so as to be ready from our side to meet the tramway + or railway which the Mozambique Company have undertaken to make + from the Pungwi river. My intention is to leave the Company's + service in June next, and in August I shall go down to the East + coast, and hope to be in Johannesburg in October, and in England + before the end of the year. I do not intend to re-visit + Mashunaland for several years, but I shall have considerable + interests there, which will increase in value as the country + develops. I intend to visit America, to see the World's Fair, in + 1893, and should like to visit Japan at the same time. I + consider myself independent, as I can live on the L330 a year + which my de Beers shares produce, and I have a good many more + properties which may turn out valuable." + +Selous continued making roads until May, 1892, when there being no +further work for him to do, he terminated his engagement with the +British South Africa Company, and went down to Beira, and so to Cape +Town and England, which he reached on December 17th, 1892. Before +leaving, however, he did a little hunting, and killed his last lion on +October 3rd, and his last elephant, a splendid old bull, with tusks +weighing 108 lbs. the pair, on October 7th. + +It was in December, 1891, that Selous killed his finest lion, a splendid +animal with a good mane, and one whose pegged-out skin measured over +eleven feet. This lion had done much damage at Hartley Hills, breaking +into stables and kraals, and destroyed many horses and goats. This was +an unusually daring beast, and efforts to destroy him had been of no +avail. Whilst dining with Dr. Edgelow one night, Selous heard his +driver, John, fire from his camp close by, and called out to ask the +cause. The driver replied that a lion had just killed one of the loose +oxen. Nothing could be done that night, but at dawn Selous took the +spoor in the wet ground, but lost it on the dry veldt. Next evening he +made a shelter against a tree. + + "As the shooting-hole between the overhanging branches of the + tree behind which I sat only allowed me to get a view directly + over the carcase of the ox, I arranged another opening to the + right, which gave me a good view up the waggon-road along which + I thought the lion would most likely come, and I placed the + muzzle of my rifle in this opening when I entered my shelter. As + the night was so light, I thought it very likely that my vigil + might be a long one; for even if he did not wait until the moon + had set, I never imagined that the lion would put in an + appearance until after midnight, when the camp would be quite + quiet. Under this impression, I had just finished the + arrangement of my blankets, placing some behind me and the rest + beneath me, so as to make myself as comfortable as possible in + so confined a space, and was just leaning back, and dreamily + wondering whether I could keep awake all night, when, still as + in a dream, I saw the form of a magnificent lion pass rapidly + and noiselessly as a phantom of the night across the moonlight + disc of the shooting-hole I had made to the right of the + tree-stem. In another instant he had passed and was hidden by + the tree, but a moment later his shaggy head again appeared + before the opening formed by the diverging stems. Momentary as + had been the glimpse I had of him as he passed the right-hand + opening, I had marked him as a magnificent black-maned lion with + neck and shoulders well covered with long shaggy hair. He now + stood with his forelegs right against the breast of the dead ox, + and, with his head held high, gazed fixedly towards my waggon + and oxen, every one of which he could, of course, see very + distinctly, as well as my boy John and the Kafirs beside him. I + heard my horse snort, and knew he had seen the lion, but the + oxen, although they must have seen him too, showed no sign of + fear. The Kafirs were still laughing and talking noisily not + fifty yards away, and, bold as he was, the lion must have felt a + little anxious as he stood silently gazing in the direction from + which he thought danger might be apprehended. + + "All this time, but without ever taking my eyes off the lion, I + was noiselessly moving the muzzle of my little rifle from the + right-hand-side opening to the space that commanded a view of + his head. This I was obliged to do very cautiously, for fear of + touching a branch behind me and making a noise. I could see the + black crest of mane between his ears move lightly in the wind, + for he was so near that had I held my rifle by the small of the + stock I could have touched him with the muzzle by holding it at + arm's length. Once only he turned his head and looked round + right into my eyes, but, of course, without seeing me, as I was + in the dark, and, apparently, without taking the slightest + alarm, as he again turned his head and stood looking at the + waggon as before. I could only see his head, his shoulder being + hidden by the right-hand stem of the tree, and I had made up my + mind to try and blow his brains out, thinking I was so near + that I could not fail to do so, even without being able to see + the sight of my rifle. I had just got the muzzle of my rifle + into the fork of the tree, and was about to raise it quite + leisurely, the lion having hitherto showed no signs of + uneasiness. I was working as cautiously as possible, when + without the slightest warning he suddenly gave a low grating + growl, and turned round, his head disappearing instantly from + view. With a jerk I pulled the muzzle of my rifle from the one + opening and pushed it through the other just as the lion walked + rapidly past in the direction from which he had come. He was not + more than four or five yards from me, and I should certainly + have given him a mortal wound had not my rifle missed fire at + this most critical juncture, the hammer giving a loud click in + the stillness of the night. At the sound the lion broke into a + gallop, and was almost instantly out of sight." + +This was a terrible misfortune, but next morning Selous tracked the lion +up a watercourse and soon found him. + + "John was looking about near the edge of this shallow water, and + I had turned my horse's head to look along the bank higher up, + when the unmistakable growl of a lion issued from the bushes + beyond the rivulet, and at the same time John said, 'Daar hij' + (there he is). I was off my horse in an instant to be ready for + a shot, when he turned round and trotted away, and John ran to + try and catch him. I thought the luck was all against me, as I + expected the lion would make off and get clean away; but I ran + forward, trying to get a sight of him when he suddenly made his + appearance in the bush about fifty yards away, and catching + sight of me, came straight towards me at a rapid pace, holding + his head low and growling savagely. I suppose he wanted to + frighten me, but he could not have done a kinder thing. He came + right on to the further bank of the little stream just where it + formed a pool of water, and stood there amongst some rocks + growling and whisking his tail about, and always keeping his + eyes fixed upon me. Of course, he gave me a splendid shot, and + in another instant I hit him, between the neck and the shoulder, + in the side of his chest, with a 360-grain expanding bullet. As + I pulled the trigger I felt pretty sure he was mine. With a loud + roar he reared right up, and turning over sideways fell off the + rock on which he had been standing into the pool of water below + him. The water was over three feet deep, and for an instant he + disappeared entirely from view, but the next instant regaining + his feet stood on the bottom with his head and shoulders above + the surface. I now came towards him, when again seeing me, he + came plunging through the water towards me, growling angrily. + But his strength was fast failing him, and I saw it was all he + could do to reach the bank, so I did not fire, as I was anxious + not to make holes in his skin. He just managed to get up the + bank, when I finished him with a shot through the lungs, to + which he instantly succumbed."[44] + +Selous has always been regarded by the British public as the first +lion-hunter of all time. They would like to have seen him travelling +round with a large circus and a band giving demonstrations of shooting +lions from horseback a la Buffalo Bill, but nothing was further from his +own ideas than such a showman's display. Being as truthful as he was +modest, he always entirely disclaimed any great prowess as a lion-hunter +and said what was true--that many men had killed a far greater number of +lions than himself. It was only on particular occasions like the last +adventure described that he went out of his way to shoot lions that had +become troublesome and dangerous, but at all times he never declined a +fight when he was lucky enough to meet lions, whether he was himself +afoot or accompanied by dogs. If he had wished to make a great bag of +lions, doubtless he could have done so; but he never wished to pose as a +lion-hunter like Jules Gerard and others, and so his total bag was +modest. Actually, he himself shot thirty-one lions and assisted in the +destruction of eleven others. Even his good friend, H. A. Bryden, +usually so accurate in his statements, says: "He was easily the greatest +lion-hunter of his time," and the general public, taking the cue from +many writers, say a thing is so-and-so and the statement becomes +standardized. But, after all, it is only a very few men who know the +real facts of any case, and they often have a habit of holding their +tongues. Doubtless, if Selous had enjoyed the opportunities of the +Brothers Hill, he would have been just as active and successful in +destroying lions as they--if he had not been killed in the process. +Selous, as a matter of fact, had no more genius for hunting than that +enjoyed by many others. He was an admirable hunter, but just as unable +to spoor a lion on dry veldt as other white men--that gift alone +belonging to certain black races. The title, therefore, of being "the +greatest lion-hunter"--even if we admit the desirability of using +superlatives--seems to belong to the man or men who by perfectly fair +means and taking risks--the same as Selous himself did--have shot the +greatest number of lions. Wherefore, I give a few particulars. + +As Selous himself has said, probably the greatest lion-hunter within his +experience of South Africa was Petrus Jacobs, who killed in his +life--chiefly with the assistance of dogs--well over one hundred lions, +and was himself badly mauled when he was over seventy-three years of +age. + +Probably the greatest all-round hunter of African game now living is +William Judd, now a professional hunter in British East Africa. In South +and East Africa he has killed forty-eight lions and been in at the death +of forty-three others. In giving me these particulars, he says: "I have +never had any really narrow squeaks from lions with the exception of the +time I was out with Selous on the Gwasin Guishu plateau" (see "Field," +May 28th, 1910). It may be remarked that this immunity is due to the +fact that he is a magnificent shot. He considers the Buffalo a far more +dangerous opponent. A. B. Percival, Game Warden, is said to have shot +fifty lions during his residence in British East Africa. + +In Somaliland, hunting almost exclusively for lions, Colonel Curtis in +one season killed twenty-seven, and in the same time Colonel Paget and +Lord Wolverton nearly as many. Captain Mellis also in one season +accounted for twenty-one lions, and several other British sportsmen have +killed twenty in one trip in that part of Africa. + +What a man does and what he could actually do in the way of lion-killing +is perhaps beside the question. A great lion-hunter like Sir Alfred +Pease, both an admirable shot and a superb horseman, has only killed +fourteen lions and joined in eleven "partnerships," but this in no way +represents the number of lions he _could_ have killed had he wished to +do so. Being of an unselfish disposition it was ever his pleasure, since +he had killed all the specimens he wanted, to give his friends who were +anxious to shoot lions every opportunity of doing so. In fact, on many +occasions, at his farm on the Kapiti Plains, he himself "rounded up" the +lions for other men to kill, and simply looked on--standing ready in +case of trouble. "Lions were so plentiful at my place on the Athi," he +writes, "that one party killed in one day (1911-12) fourteen lions. I +have often spared a fine lion to give a guest a chance, and have never +seen him again. The finest lion I ever saw was an enormous black-maned +fellow. I prevented my son-in-law from firing at him, as I wished +President Roosevelt to get him during his stay with me. Subsequently, I +think a German got his skin; but in reality, I believe H. D. Hill killed +him after a German party and the Brothers Hill had fought a great battle +with him near Lukania." + +Sir Alfred then goes on to give particulars of the astounding +performances of the Brothers Harold D. Hill and Clifford Hill, who if +they wished it--which they probably do not--are justly entitled to the +right of being called the first of modern lion-hunters. "Harold Hill +managed my farm in British East Africa for several years. He told me a +year ago that he had, since he had been there, 1906-15, on my farms of +Theki and Katanga, and on his own and his brother's farms--Katelembo and +Wami--killed himself one hundred and thirty-six lions. I think this +figure will include a very great number of what I should call +'partnerships,' for his brother Clifford must have killed as many or +more than Harold, for he has done more actual hunting.[45] Clifford Hill +acted as professional hunter to many 'safaris,' but you could +absolutely rely on any statement he made, although it is not likely that +he believed, himself, in counting heads of game killed. I should not be +surprised if these two brothers have not been in at the death of over +three hundred lions during their residence in East Africa." + + "Some years ago Lord Delamere had, I think, killed between fifty + and sixty lions. Many of these (over twenty) were killed in + Somaliland. Some of these were 'ridden,' and others may have + been killed at night, but Delamere was, nevertheless, a keen and + fearless hunter." + +Commenting on the different methods of hunting lions in Somaliland and +British East Africa, Sir Alfred says:-- + + "The Somaliland method of hunting (i.e. following a fresh spoor + on hard ground till the lion was viewed) was, in my opinion, the + best test of skill and sporting qualities, since you tracked and + did the whole thing on your own initiative. Personally, I + enjoyed most the B.E.A. work. You saw much more of the beasts, + and I loved galloping and rounding them up for others to kill as + much as I enjoyed anything in my whole life." + +Paul Rainey's methods of hunting lions with a large pack of hounds can +hardly come into the true category of lion-hunting where risks are +taken. The dogs, it is true, were often killed or wounded; but as a +friend who had taken part in these hunts remarked, "It was just like +rat-hunting, and about as dangerous." It is true that one man, George +Swartz (formerly a German waiter at the Norfolk Hotel, Nairobi), was +killed in one of these hunts, but the accident was singular. Swartz was +a very bold fellow and moved close in in thick bush when the dogs had a +lion at bay one day in the Kedong in 1912. The lion "broke bay," and +either intentionally charged Swartz or ran over to him by chance as he +worked the cinema-camera. The beast gave the man one bite in the stomach +and then left him, but the unfortunate fellow died shortly afterwards of +his wounds. Paul Rainey claims to have killed over two hundred lions +with his dogs. + +[Illustration: THE BATTLE OF THE STRONG.] + +It has always been the custom amongst hunters that he who draws first +blood from any animal--even if it is only a scratch--is entitled to the +beast when subsequently killed. It is a good law on the whole, but there +are many instances where it is scarcely justified--that is to say, when +the first shooter has done little beyond slightly injuring the animal, +if a dangerous one, and the second hunter has stood "all the racket," +and killed the beast at the risk of his life. Here is such an example +given to me by Sir Alfred Pease:-- + + "I lent my rifle (a .256 Mannlicher) to a friend, also my horse + to gallop and 'round up' a lion, whilst I kept watch on a bush + where another had hidden, not being able--owing to dongas--to + get round him. My friend soon jumped off and fired two or three + shots at the first lion, which worked round and came and lay + down under a thin thorn-bush less than a hundred yards from my + position. I then went towards the bush and the lion charged me. + I fired twice with a 10-bore gun at about sixty and fifteen + yards, and the beast--a very fine black-maned lion--fell dead to + my second barrel. + + "My friend now came up, and to my disgust said excitedly, 'My + lion!' I said, 'Mine, I think?' He said, 'No; I had first + blood!' I had no idea the lion had been hit, but when we + examined him there was a .256 hole in his back ribs. I was + rather sore, as I had stood the racket; but _it was the rule_. I + killed the second lion in a quarter of an hour. We did not + quarrel, however, and he gave my daughter the skin of the first + lion, which was nice of him." + +However, if he did kill a considerable but not a remarkable number of +lions, Selous will always remain the greatest authority on the subject, +for in his numerous writings he has given us accounts of sport and +natural history in connection with this animal that are quite unequalled +by any other writer. In all the descriptions and the accounts of its +habits he accumulated a vast mass of material, mostly new and +original--which is without a blemish, without a single incorrect +statement. These writings by Selous, especially his admirable notes in +"African Nature Notes and Reminiscences," and the small monograph on +"The Lion," by Sir Alfred Pease, constitute a complete record of the +natural history and sport connected with this interesting animal. + +To clever and broad-minded people in other lands it may be a wonder that +so excellent a field naturalist as Selous was not granted a State +allowance, to pursue his work as a pioneer and naturalist, so as to +relieve him of the constant strain on his slender resources. We know +that in France, Germany, Austria, Italy, America and Japan such a thing +would have been done long ago; but foreigners have no knowledge of our +various Governments' neglect of science, or of the miserable pittances +they allowed to the various scientific bodies for such a purpose in this +country. Heaven alone knows what inventions, amounting in value to vast +sums, have been literally driven out of England by this abominable +stinginess, and sold to other countries, which in time became our +deadliest enemies in trade and war. And so in turn our scientific +societies, each and all of which considered their own branch the most +important, have pursued a policy of neglect and jealousy towards all +young workers in whatever branch they showed exceptional originality. + +The officials of the British Museum are poorly paid, and they and the +Zoological Society, having little or no money to expend on researches of +importance in foreign lands, have to go and beg from the general public +whenever any expedition is being sent abroad. + +In America, where matters are worked on broad-minded principles, field +zoology is now recognized as being as important as purely scientific +zoology, and ample funds are given to all genuine collectors outside the +body corporate, and the advancement of general knowledge is all that is +desired. The result is that more excellent work in this branch of +science is being done to-day in New York and Washington than in all +other countries. It is true they have ample funds for such purposes and +these are generously distributed; but there are no jealous cliques +there, and the spirit in which the work is done is wholly admirable. + +Perhaps the only scientific society that has received great monetary +help is the Royal Geographical Society, and when Arctic or Antarctic +expeditions are launched the public has always responded magnificently. +I have often wondered why, for beyond the individual effort of bravery +on the part of the gallant members of these expeditions, the scientific +and material results of these expeditions are very small compared with +those of one well-conducted expedition to Central Asia or Africa, which +in time has often given considerable scientific results, as well as +knowledge of new countries that have become the homes of white men. From +the time of Denham and Clapperton to Selous what has ever been done for +our African explorers? Absolutely nothing. These grand men have taken +quite as great risks as Arctic or Antarctic travellers, have explored +thousands of square miles of new country and done it all out of their +own pockets, often ruining themselves in purse and health. An Antarctic +expedition costs the British nation anything from L30,000 to L50,000, +and its leaders receive knighthoods, and other official distinctions, +but we never heard Livingstone called anything but a wandering +missionary, or Selous aught but a big game hunter; nor has any +Government taken the smallest notice of them. Yet these two men, by +their courage, tact in dealing with natives, personal influence, skill +in mapping and eventual advice to those in authority, did more, both for +Science and the Empire, than all the expeditions to the wildernesses of +perpetual snow and ice. + +It must not be supposed that Selous, had he wished, could not have +obtained some of these material rewards which are valued by most men. He +was not without influential friends, both at home and in Africa, but his +natural modesty forbade him to make use of them. One man above all +others should have made it his duty to have helped him, but let us see +how he acted. + +Cecil Rhodes was a big man--big in almost every way except in the matter +of gratitude--and when he found that Selous was--to use an +Americanism--such an "easy mark," he exploited him to the limit of his +capacity. Rhodes knew that without Selous' immense local knowledge and +tact with the native Mashuna chiefs his best-laid schemes might go +astray, so he played on his patriotism, and promised him many things, +not one of which he ever performed. + +Selous was, in fact, the whole Intelligence Department, and when he cut +the road north with such rapidity it really gave Lobengula no time to +act until it was too late. So that the first expedition, which might +easily have been a failure, turned out an unqualified success. + +"Let me introduce you to Mr. Selous," said Rhodes to a member of the +Government at a big luncheon party in 1896, "the man above all others to +whom we owe Rhodesia to the British Crown." These were fine words, and a +fine acknowledgment of Selous' services. But what happened afterwards, +and were Rhodes' promises to him kept? When the Empire builder found his +tool was of no further use, he absolutely ignored him, and could never +find time even to see him. To his cynical mind gratitude simply did not +exist. Selous was just one of the pawns in the game, and he could now go +to the devil for all he cared. + +If others gained gold and titles out of the efforts of Selous and the +Chartered Company, these mushroom successes strut their uneasy hour and +are soon forgotten; but Selous left behind him an imperishable name for +all that was best in the new lands, which is well voiced in the words of +Mr. A. R. Morkel, in a letter to the Selous Memorial Committee (1917):-- + + "The natives around my farm all remember him, though it is well + over twenty-five years since he was last here; and it is a + pretty good testimony to his character, that wherever he + travelled amongst natives, many of whom I have talked to about + him, he was greatly respected and esteemed as a just man. We, + settlers of Rhodesia, will always have this legacy from him, + that he instilled into these natives a very good idea of British + justice and fairness." + +We need express no surprise that the man who did the most hard work was +left unrewarded, for such is life. It is on a par with the experience of +a gallant officer in a Highland regiment who, after nearly three years +of intense warfare in the front line (1914-17), and still without a +decoration of any kind, although twice wounded, came to Boulogne, where +he met an old brother officer, who had been there in charge of stores +for one and a half years, wearing the D.S.O. and M.C. ribbons. "I am not +a cynical man," he remarked to me, "but I must say that for once in my +life I felt so." + +FOOTNOTES: + +[40] Rhodes' original plan was to attack Lobengula with a small force. +This, Selous pointed out to him, would be certain to lead to disaster +since Rhodes' information as to the strength of the Matabele was +obviously incorrect. It is therefore clear that Selous in +over-persuading him to abandon this method rendered him and the nation a +considerable service. + +[41] "Travel and Adventure in S.E. Africa," pp. 417-425. + +[42] "African Native Notes and Reminiscences," p. 311, 1908. + +[43] Badminton Library. "The Lion in S. Africa," p. 316, 1894. + +[44] Badminton Library. "The Lion in S. Africa," p. 343. + +[45] In a letter to me from East Africa, March 12th, 1918, Harold Hill +states that he has been in at the death of 135 lions and that his +brother Clifford has seen 160 lions shot. In most cases, he admits, he +and his brother generally allowed some friend to have his first shot. + + + + +CHAPTER IX +1893-1896 + + +Selous had been hunting something all his life, yet he never seems to +have lost sight of the possibility that a little fellow with a bow and +arrow might one day take a shot at him. Perhaps in earlier days he +feared him a little, but when, one January day in 1893, he went to +Barrymore House, his mother's home at Wargrave, the small archer was +there waiting in ambush and found a very willing victim. The immediate +cause of the attack was the fact that Miss Gladys Maddy, a daughter of +the Rev. Canon Maddy, was staying with Selous' mother. This was one of +Selous' lucky days, for in a short time, since the attraction seems to +have been mutual, he decided to try and win the lady as his wife. In +this he was quite successful, and by the spring they were engaged. +Meanwhile the hunter, being now well known to the public, had arranged +to make a lecturing tour in the United States, under the auspices of +Major Pond, and had hoped that this would be finished by late September, +when he would be able to do a hunt in the Rockies afterwards. All +arrangements had been completed and he had already taken his passage to +America when the news of the Matabele rising arrived in England. He at +once cancelled all his engagements and took the first steamer to South +Africa. + +After the Pioneer expedition to Mashunaland in 1890 had proved a success +the country seemed in so quiet a state that the police force there was +in 1891 disbanded. This was doubtless a great mistake. The Matabele were +not the kind of people to take the position of a conquered race with +equanimity. Their whole history showed them to be a virile fighting +people who up till now had conquered all native races in their +vicinity, and believed themselves to be superior to the white, with whom +they had not as yet been fairly tested in battle. This primal fact, and +the gross mismanagement on the part of the Chartered Company (which +Selous himself admits) of the cattle question, produced a feeling of +bitterness on the part of the Matabele, who, being above all things +cattle-owners, and not slaves who had been conquered, resented the +regulation exacting paid labour from every able-bodied man. The +confiscation, too, of their cattle and the manner in which the +confiscation was carried out added fuel to the fire. These +circumstances, combined with the fact that the Matabele nation had not +been beaten in war, were the causes for the outbreak in 1893. The +Matabele, in fact, were still too raw to appreciate the advantages +(_sic_) of civilization. They did without them. The assegai and the raid +were to them still the heart of life. From the time of Umsilikatzie till +now their forays amongst their more or less defenceless neighbours had, +comparatively speaking, been one continuous success, even the fairly +powerful Bechuanas under Khama were in a constant state of dread. Within +a few years they ravaged all the country up to the Zambesi, and even +sent two expeditions right across the waterless Kalahari to attack the +Batauwani of Lake Ngami. These were indeed bold enterprises, as the +marauders had to traverse nearly four hundred miles of desert almost +devoid of game and only inhabited by a few bushmen. This first +expedition, in 1883, was only partially successful, whilst the second +one met with complete disaster. The Batauwani got wind of the impending +attack and sent their women and children and cattle beyond the Botletlie +river. They then ambushed the Matabele and killed many of them, whilst +large numbers were drowned in trying to cross the river. Not a single +head of cattle was captured, and hundreds of Lobengula's best warriors +died from starvation, thirst, and exhaustion on the return journey, +whilst only a remnant of the army got back to Bulawayo. One smaller +party of Matabele went north by the Mababe river and eventually got back +to Matabeleland by the northern route. + +It was between 1883 and 1890 that the Matabele were most active in +attacking their weaker neighbours. Sometimes with diabolic cunning they +"nursed" the various Mashuna chiefs until the latter became rich in +cattle and ivory and were ripe for slaughter. This they did to +Chameluga, a powerful sorcerer, whom Lobengula professed to esteem and +even to fear, but this favouritism was, after all, only an assumed pose, +for in 1883 an army was sent to destroy the Situngweesa, of whom +Chameluga was chief. The chief was summoned to Bulawayo, but was met at +the Tchangani river, and all his party slaughtered with the exception of +a young wife named Bavea, who was taken prisoner, but afterwards escaped +to the north. Before his death, however, Chameluga had just time to send +a young son to warn his people, and they took flight into the hilly +country between the Mazoe and Inyagui rivers, and only a few were +destroyed by the raiding Matabele who had followed their spoor. In 1888 +an impi raided the Barotsi and killed the chief Sikabenga and most of +his tribe. + +In 1890 the Matabele also attacked and almost completely destroyed the +large Mashuna tribe whose ladies were so wonderfully tattooed, and which +Selous described as seeing east of the Sabi on his visit there in 1885. +Selous does not mention this in his book, although he must later have +been well aware of the fact. + +In 1893 I found that all the plain and forest country here was swept +clear of natives, but to the east of the Sabi there were villages of +Gungunhlama's Shangans living on the tops of the kopjes, their little +grass huts hanging to the sides of the cliffs like bunches of martins' +nests. They told me that in 1890 a big impi of Matabele had annihilated +the Mashunas that formerly lived there, and they themselves, even in +their aerial fastnesses, lived in constant dread of attack. + +Although the Matabele had not moved during the advent of the Pioneer +Expedition to Mashunaland in 1890, Lobengula and his chiefs had been in +a state of smouldering unrest since that time, and the best authorities +considered that they intended to attack Bulawayo, Salisbury, and +Victoria, where many of the settlers and some troops had taken refuge +and gone into "laager" in the early part of 1893. All signs pointed to a +conflict, and when I reached the Middle Drift of the Limpopo in May of +that year, I was strongly advised by the police officer in charge, +Sergeant Chauner (afterwards killed), to return to the Transvaal. As he +had no orders to stop me, and as I found my Boer friend, Roelef van +Staden, ready to go on, I went north across the Umsingwani and shot some +koodoos in Lobengula's pet preserve. This led to trouble, as we were +captured by twelve Matabele warriors, who came to our camp and insisted +on our accompanying them to the king's kraal. Of course we knew what +this meant in wartime. Perhaps we should be killed, and at the least it +would involve a loss of my whole outfit. So we sent most of the Boers +and all the women and children back to the Drift and vanished eastwards +in the night with our horses and a light waggon. In the morning some +Matabele came after us and shouted that they intended to kill us and all +the English that year, but a few shots fired over their heads dispersed +them. Baulked of their prey the brutes then returned and assassinated a +dozen poor Makalaka Kafirs with whom we had encamped. + +After our departure to the hunting-ground to the east, only one Boer +family, the Bezedenhuits, Mr. George Banks, Captain Donovan, and a Mr. +Mitchell,[46] of the 15th Hussars, got into Mashunaland from the +Transvaal, as the Matabele soon made their unsuccessful attack on +Victoria and communications with the north were stopped. We had various +adventures, but passed safely through the Matabele without being +detected on our return. Mr. George Banks went West and Captain Donovan +struck North and joined the British forces, whilst Bezedenhuit went out +through the Lower Drift after a small fight with the Matabele. + +In 1893 Selous returned to South Africa, went up country by the +Bamangwato route, and joined the Chartered Company forces there in +September. From Fort Tuli he wrote on September 30th:-- + + "I reached here last Sunday and met Dr. Jameson. News has just + come in that the Matabele have attacked a patrol near Fort + Victoria, and in a fortnight's time the Company's forces will be + in a position to retaliate. At Dr. Jameson's request I have + remained with the force here, which in case of necessity will + co-operate with the Mashunaland column and attack the Matabele + simultaneously from the West, when they advance from the East. + In the meantime I am going on a small scouting expedition with + two companions to examine the country along the western borders + of Matabeleland." + +On this scouting trip he met with no adventures and he returned to Tuli +on October 11th. On October 19th he started northward with Colonel +Goold-Adams' column. On November 2nd his column met with its first +opposition near Impandini's kraal, when the Matabele made an attack on +some waggons coming into camp. "There was a bit of a fight," Selous +wrote to his mother, "and the Matabele were driven off with considerable +loss. I was unfortunate enough to get wounded. As I am in very good +health, this wound is not at all dangerous, though, of course, it makes +me very stiff and sore all down the right side, but I shall soon be all +right again." Of the details of this day he wrote a more complete +account to his future wife. + + "Owing to the miserable state of the oxen, a portion of the + waggons did not get up to us on November 1st, but were left + behind at a distance of about three miles from our main column + and the oxen sent on to the water. After drinking they were sent + back at once, and early on the morning of November 2nd the + waggons came on. Soon afterwards we heard heavy firing and knew + that the convoy was attacked. As there were but few men with the + convoy, assistance was urgently needed, we knew, and the alarm + was at once sounded and the horses called in. I got hold of my + horse long before the troop horses came in, and, saddling him + up, galloped back alone to help the fellows with the waggons. + They were not far off, and were being attacked on all sides by + the Matabele, who were keeping up a hot fire and closing in on + both flanks and from the rear. Our fellows were sticking to it + well, though in small numbers. My appearance, I think, checked + the Matabele a little, as, seeing one horseman gallop up, they + naturally thought more were at hand. However, as I was very near + them, and firing away at them, they fired a lot of shots at me. + The whistling of the bullets made my horse very restive, and + presently one of them hit me. The wound, however, is not + dangerous. The bullet struck me about three inches below the + right breast, but luckily ran round my ribs and came out behind, + about eight inches from where it entered. The Matabele came + right up to our camp, some being shot within three hundred yards + of the laager with the Maxim. They were then beaten off and a + good many of them killed, and had it not been that they got into + a lot of thickly wooded hills close behind our camp their loss + would have been much heavier. Our loss was two white men killed, + and three wounded, including myself, and of our native allies + two killed and several wounded. Before I came up the Matabele + had captured a waggon, which they burnt, and killed Corporal + Mundy, who was in charge of it. Sergeant Adahm was killed and + two other men wounded after the Matabele had been driven off + from the camp and whilst they were fighting them in a hill. + + "Yesterday we pushed on and took up a splendid position here, + where if we are attacked we shall be able to give a good account + of ourselves." + +The campaign of 1893 against the Matabele was short and a complete +success. A compact force, part of which had gone up through the +Transvaal, and part from the north, and consisting of 670 white men, of +whom 400 were mounted, moved up under the command of Dr. Jameson. It was +under the guidance of Nyemyezi, a Matabele chief who was bitterly +opposed to Lobengula, and the force travelled unmolested until they +reached the Tchangani river, where they were attacked by some 5000 +Matabele of the Imbezu and Ingubu regiments, who were heavily defeated. +On hearing this news Lobengula fled from Bulawayo and recalled his +son-in-law, Gambo, from the Mangwe Pass, which gave opportunity to the +southern column, under Colonel Goold Adams, to whom Selous was attached +as Chief of the Scouts, to move up and join Dr. Jameson's column. When +this southern force of Matabele heard of the disaster on the Tchangani +to their picked regiments they retired to the Matoppo hills and +surrendered without fighting. + +Meanwhile Lobengula continued to retreat north of the Tchangani, closely +pursued by Major Wilson and his column, which, getting too far from his +support, was surrounded and annihilated with his small force at the +Tchangani river. Soon after this the powerful Matabele, forced into the +trackless bush in the rainy season, and seeing their women and children +dying of starvation and fever, surrendered in detail and accepted the +liberal terms offered them. The whole campaign was settled by two +battles, in which they attacked the white men in laager and suffered +many reverses. The fighting spirit of the natives, however, was only +scotched but not killed, as subsequent events showed. + +On November 11th Selous gives some interesting details of the general +progress of the campaign after the Matabele had attacked them and been +driven north. "The Matabele generalship has been abominably bad. They +never did what they ought to have done, and we took advantage of their +opportunities. The strong British column from the East, advancing +through open country, with a large force of mounted men and a large +number of machine guns, simply carried everything before it, and on the +two occasions when they attacked the 'laager' the machine guns simply +mowed them down. No one, knowing their abominable history, can pity them +or lament their downfall. They have been paid back in their own coin. + + "Our column advancing from the West had very great difficulties + to contend with, as the whole country on that side is covered + with thick bush and broken hills. Had the Matabele here made a + determined opposition we could never have got through, and + should probably have met with a disaster. But the large army + opposed to us retired without fighting as soon as they heard + that the King's forces had made an unsuccessful attack on the + laager near Bulawayo, and so we came in here (Bulawayo) without + further trouble. + + "So the campaign is virtually over, and the fair-haired + descendants of the northern pirates are in possession of the + Great King's kraal, and the 'Calf of the Black Cow'[47] has fled + into the wilderness." + +Writing from Bulawayo, where he went into hospital, November 27th, 1893, +he says:-- + + "I am still here, but hope to get away now in a few days. My + wound is getting on famously, and will be soon quite healed up. + If I had not been in such good health it might have given a lot + of trouble and taken a long time. These people (the Matabele) + are thoroughly cowed and demoralized, and must be having a very + bad time of it, as they are now living in the bush and must have + very little to eat, and heavy rain is falling every day and + night, which will not add to their comfort. The King has fled to + the north, but his people seem to be dropping away from him, and + I don't think he knows exactly what to do. Yesterday messengers + came in here from him saying he was willing to submit, as he did + not know what else to do and could go no further. If he + surrenders he will, of course, be well treated, but removed from + Matabeleland. His people evidently now wish to surrender and + live under the government of white men, but there are such a lot + of them that they will take up the whole country, and it would, + I think, be much better if the King would go right away across + the Zambesi and form a new kingdom for himself, just as his + father fled from the Boers of the Transvaal and established + himself in this country. If he would do that a large number of + his people would go with him and the warlike element in this + country would be removed, whereas, if they once come back, + although they will be very humble at first, they may give + trouble again later on." + +A very true prophecy. + +In December, 1893, Selous left Bulawayo, as he thought, for ever, having +no intention to return to South Africa. + +He arrived home in England in February, 1894, and was married to Miss +Marie Catherine Gladys Maddy, in her father's parish church at Down +Hatherly, near Gloucester, on April 4th. Many old friends assembled at +the Charing Cross Hotel to honour his marriage, and in a speech he said +that his career as a Rugby boy had helped not only to support the +fatigues which he had had to contend with, but to despise the strong boy +who bullied the weak one and to admire the strong who guarded the weak. +He thought that if any of those present should ever go to Matabeleland +he would not hear anything that he had done but would become an +Englishman as well as a Rugby boy. His Rugby friends subscribed together +and gave him a handsome memento in the shape of a silver salver and +ewer, and he was very proud of this gift. + +Selous and his wife then went abroad for the honeymoon, passing through +Switzerland and Italy. After a very pleasant visit to Venice they +journeyed to Budapest, and on to their friends the Danfords, at Hatzeg +in Transylvania, where Selous did a little egg-collecting. After some +time spent in the mountains they went on down the Danube to Odessa, and +so to Constantinople, where they made the acquaintance of Sir William +Whittall, with whom Selous made plans to hunt in Asia Minor in the +autumn of 1894. Selous and his wife then returned to England in July, +and after his autumn trip to Smyrna, which is detailed later, he +returned to Surrey and bought the land and arranged plans for renovating +the house at Worplesdon which was afterwards his home. The original +house was not large, but possessed a good area of land, flanked by a +pretty and clear stream, and this plot was eventually made into a +charming garden which Mrs. Selous has devoted care and energy to render +beautiful and homelike. In later years a good orchard was added. The +house was greatly added to and improved in 1899. At the same time as the +house was being built a museum was erected close by, and in this all +Selous' treasures, brought from his mother's house at Wargrave, were +stored. As time went on it was found to be too small for his rapidly +increasing collection, so in later years another wing was added, which +made the whole building perhaps the largest private museum of its kind +in Great Britain. + +It was in August, 1894, that Selous went north for his first experiences +of Highland sport. His destination was the Island of Mull, where for a +fortnight he enjoyed the chase of the seal, the otter, and the wild +goat, on the estate of Loch Buie, at the invitation of the Maclaine of +Lochbuie. He thus describes his first search for seals and otters:-- + + "On August 16th, 1894, accompanied by the keepers MacColl and + Nottman, I visited Loch Spelve in search of seals and otters. + Skirting the shores of the loch in a small boat, we soon espied + two seals lying out on a rock. They, however, winded us and + slipped into the water, when we were still a long way off. We + then went ashore and put the three terriers into a cairn which + the keepers knew otters to be partial to, and from the behaviour + of the dogs we soon became aware that one of the animals was + somewhere about. Knowing that if the dogs succeeded in drawing + the otter from the rocks it would make for the sea, I took up my + position amongst the slippery seaweed covered with stones near + the water and waited full of expectation. However, the otter + resisted all the overtures of the terriers and would not bolt. + Then MacColl, the wily, produced some evil-smelling fuse and, + setting light to it, pushed it into a hole amongst the stones. + The effect was magical, for the otter bolted at once almost + between MacColl's legs. Instead, however, of coming towards the + sea, it made back through the wood and took refuge in another + cairn. From the second place of refuge another piece of fuse + soon dislodged it, and this time making for the sea, it came + past me in the open, travelling over the seaweed-covered rocks + at no great pace. My first barrel knocked it over, but it + quickly recovered itself, only to be again knocked down by my + second left-hand barrel. This time it lay dead, and proved to be + a fine bitch otter in excellent coat, weighing 141/2 lbs. and + measuring 3 ft. 6 ins. in length." + +In January, 1895, he again went to Loch Buie and shot his first woodcock +and other Highland game, and in January, 1897, he got his first pair of +ptarmigan. It was in Ben Alder Forest that he killed his first Highland +stags, but the chase of red deer as conducted in Scotland did not, as we +should expect, greatly appeal to him. + +In September, 1894, Selous and his wife reached Bournabat near Smyrna, +where he remained a short time as the guest of H. O. Whittall. From +here, accompanied by his wife and the Whittalls, Selous made a short +trip into the interior, with the intention of finding haunts of the wild +goat (_Capra aegagrus_). After an interesting journey amongst the Turks +and Yuruks he returned to the sea-coast, where in the Musa Dagh he did +some hunting, but was unsuccessful in finding the old billies, only +killing one male with small horns. On October 3rd he returned to Smyrna, +and then went straight into the Ak Dagh to look for the long-faced red +deer. These animals are now scarce and difficult to hunt in the dense +forests, and he only succeeded in coming up to one good +fourteen-pointer, which he killed with a long shot on October 19th. + +He was, however, somewhat fascinated with this hunting in Asia Minor, +for though the game was comparatively scarce and hunting difficult, +owing to the rough nature of the ground and abundance of local hunters, +yet it satisfied his idea of what is called "high-class sport." Selous +never liked to admit failure with any animal, so at the end of January, +1895, he again made a trip to Asia Minor in the hope of getting good +specimens of the wild goat and, if possible, the black mouflon (_Ovis +gmelini_). This time he decided to hunt the Maimun Dagh, a great mass of +mountains situated close to the Smyrna railway. For a fortnight he +toiled up and down its steep and parched cliffs, and then at last he saw +and got a shot at one of the patriarchs with long horns. This goat he +wounded very badly and lost, but some days later a Turk saw a large goat +fall from a cliff and remain suspended by its horns in a tree, where he +despatched it. This was without doubt the fine male which Selous had +lost, and he was lucky enough to obtain the head. A few days later he +found another grand billy, alas with only one horn. This he also killed +and lost, but found it the next day. Two other fair specimens made up +his bag, so on the whole the expedition was quite successful. Then he +returned to England in February. + +Although so recently married, Selous found that living in England was +too expensive, and this, combined with the "call of the wild," which +never left him, evolved a new spirit of restlessness and desire once +more to live in the open veldt and to see the game. To this was added +the request of an old friend, Mr. Maurice Heany, who asked him to go +into Matabeleland and assist him in the management of a land and +gold-mining company. After consulting his wife, who was willing to share +the troubles and difficulties of the new country, Selous accepted the +post, which was to occupy him for two years. + +Accordingly Selous and his wife left England in March, 1895, and after +spending two months in Cape Colony and the Free State, where he shot +some springbuck, blesbuck, and black wildebeest for his collection, he +took ship to Beira and then went by rail to Chimoio, where he met his +waggon and oxen, and passed on via Salisbury, the Hanyane river, to +Bulawayo. At the Sebakwe river he fired at what he thought was a jackal, +but on arriving near the animal, which he expected to find dead, as he +had heard the bullet strike, he was suddenly charged by a leopard. The +angry beast passed right under his stirrup-iron, and after going thirty +yards stopped and sat on its haunches. Another shot at once killed it. + +The Selous now left for Essexvale, the farm of his company, and took up +their quarters in a rough wood and mud two-roomed house which was to be +their home until the wire-wove bungalow, which had been sent out from +England in sections, should arrive and be erected. It was whilst +travelling to Essexvale that Selous met his old friend, Mr. Helm, the +missionary, who by his long residence amongst the Matabele was +thoroughly conversant with native views. Mr. Helm said that on the whole +the natives had accepted the new regime, but that they were highly +incensed at the confiscation of their cattle by the Chartered Company. +The natives at first were told that after all the cattle had been +branded with the Company's mark and handed back to the natives, only +the king's cattle would be confiscated. "This promise," says Selous, +"was made under the belief that nearly all the cattle in Matabeleland +had belonged to the king and that the private owners had been but few in +number." This was a great mistake, for nearly every chief induna and men +of any position had possessed large herds of their own. + +At Bulawayo Selous found a ruined kraal, since it had been burnt and +deserted by the Matabele after their defeat in 1893. The site of the new +town had been marked out by the settlers, who had camped close by, and a +general air of hope and prosperity hung over the scene of the new +British town that was shortly to arise from the ashes of the past. No +difficulties with the natives were apprehended, and farms and town-sites +were at a high value. No one, in fact, dreamed that in a few months the +whole country would be overwhelmed in the calamity of the rinderpest--a +cattle disease that swept from Abyssinia to the Cape and killed in its +course nearly the whole stock of cattle, as well as many fine species of +game, such as buffalo, eland, koodoo, etc. Added to this the Matabele +again rose, burnt the farms, and in many cases murdered all the new +settlers and carried destruction throughout the whole country north of +the Limpopo. To add to these horrors a bad drought and an unusual plague +of locusts rendered farming and transport practically impossible. + +There were some 70,000 cattle at this time in the hands of the natives, +and a final settlement was made by which the Chartered Company retained +two-fifths, giving the remaining three-fifths to the natives, a +settlement by which for the time being the natives appeared satisfied. + +All through the autumn and winter of 1895 life passed quietly at +Essexvale. The new house arrived, and was erected just before the rains +set in on a high position eighty feet above the Ingnaima river. The +Company bought 1200 head of cattle which were distributed amongst the +natives. Five thousand gum-trees were raised from seed and planted on +some forty acres of ploughed land, the other products including maize +and fruit trees of various kinds. + +All this time the natives appeared to be happy and contented, whilst +Umlugula, a relation of Lobengula, and a great chief under his rule, now +living some eighteen miles away, constantly visited Selous and seemed as +quiet as the rest, although he was actively plotting the rebellion which +was shortly to break out. Selous afterwards thought that the cause of +the insurrection was the withdrawal of the Matabeleland Police Force and +their munitions of war, and its subsequent capture by the Boers in the +ill-starred "Jameson Raid." + +The first cloud of trouble appeared in February, 1896, when news was +spread that the "Umlimo," or god of the Makalakas, who lived in a cave +in the Matoppo hills, had said that the white man's blood was about to +be spilt. It was also rumoured that Lobengula was not dead, as +previously reported, but was coming with a large army from the +north-east and west. Umlimo also claimed to have sent the rinderpest +which at this date had already reached Northern Matabeleland. + +So far, however, there were merely rumours, and old residents in the +country, with the single exception of Mr. Usher, believed that nothing +was to be feared. Mr. Jackson, a native commissioner, thought that if +the natives rose a certain danger was to be expected from the Matabele +Police, who had been armed with Winchesters and were kept for the +purposes of law and order, and in this he was right, for half of this +body revolted and attacked their former employers. + +The "Umlimo" was a kind of native hereditary priest whose family are +supposed to inherit supernatural powers. His family are known as the +children of the god and all are supposed to commune with the unseen +deity. He lived in the Matoppo Hills, where the people visited their +"god" and consulted him. He was supposed to speak all languages, and +could moreover roar like a lion, bark like a dog, and do other wonderful +things. There seemed to have been other Umlimos in other tribes, and it +is somewhat strange that this "deity" of the despised Makalakas should +have been possessed of such influence over the powerful Matabele. +Lobengula at any rate constantly visited and even feared this man, and +there is no doubt that Lobengula and his chiefs made full use of him in +the present instance to excite the natives. + +In the middle of March Selous was appointed to inspect the Umsingwani +and Insiza district and try and stop the spread of the rinderpest to the +south, and in this he was powerless, as trek-oxen further carried the +infection. At Dawson's store on March 22nd he heard that a native +policeman had been killed and that the murderers with their women and +children had fled to the Matoppo hills. This was the first overt act of +the rebellion. + +Immediately after this two attacks were made on the native police, and +Selous found when he arrived home that some Matabele had borrowed axes +from Mrs. Selous, and had left with them ostensibly to repair their +cattle-kraals, but in reality to attack the settlers. The following +night three miners, Messrs. Foster, Eagleson and Anderson, carrying on +work at Essexvale, were attacked and murdered as well as several other +Europeans in the neighbourhood. Next day most of the Essexvale cattle +were driven off by the natives, so that there was now no doubt that a +rising was imminent. Selous therefore took his wife into Bulawayo for +safety, and returned at once with an armed force of thirty-eight men, +intending if possible to recover his cattle; but by this time the flame +of rebellion had spread to the whole of the north, and numerous white +men, women and children had been brutally murdered. + +At least nine-tenths of the Matabele natives were now in arms against +the whites, who were very badly equipped and in sore straits for arms, +ammunition, cattle and horses. Their position was somewhat desperate, +but, as ever before and since, the settlers nobly responded to the call +to arms, although there was really no organized force worth speaking of. +However, about five hundred good men and true assembled at Bulawayo, +from which it was almost impossible to move owing to the absence of +horses. This force only had some 580 rifles, but a good supply of +ammunition--1,500,000 rounds. There was also a .303 Maxim and an old gun +or two. This is all they had with which to resist some 10,000 Matabele, +of which at least one-fifth had breechloading rifles and plenty of +ammunition. The tactics of the Matabele, however, were indifferent, and +it is somewhat incomprehensible that they never blocked the main road to +the south or attacked waggons or coaches moving along it. + +Of the 1000 white men in Bulawayo only about 300 were available for +active operations, as 400 had always to be kept for the defence of the +women and children in the town: but in addition to this force a regiment +of native boys, mostly Zulus, was organized by Colonel Johan +Colenbrander,[48] and did excellent scouting work. This little force of +white and black eventually drove the Matabele from the neighbourhood of +Bulawayo and rescued many small isolated detachments, whilst keeping the +enemy at bay until the arrival of Sir Frederick Carrington, who +eventually completed their rout. + +But to return to the movements of Selous after he revisited his farm. He +was not long in finding part of his stolen cattle and burning the kraal +where they were found. Then he searched for the rebels and found them in +the act of driving off more cattle. These he attacked and recovered some +150 cattle belonging to Colenbrander. Selous then returned to Essexvale +on March 26th, and left the herd of cattle there in charge of loyal +natives because he feared they would be attacked by rinderpest if he +drove them into Bulawayo. This, however, may have been a mistake, since +Inxnozan, a native Matabele warrior, and some three hundred of his men +came in a few days and burnt the farm and carried off all the cattle. + +Selous then took his men to Spiro's Store in the Matoppo hills in the +hope of finding or rendering assistance to Mr. Jackson, the native +commissioner, who was reported to have been murdered with the whole +force of native police. He was now entering the Matabele stronghold, +where large forces of the enemy were likely to be encountered. He put +his best men out to scout ahead. In a gorge in the hills the enemy were +found in some force, and Selous' men drove them off after some sharp +fighting. Selous himself was fired at at a distance of fifteen yards, +but fortunately the shot missed. Cattle to the number of one hundred +were found, and Selous endeavoured to drive them, but the enemy again +attacked, when four horses were killed and two men wounded. After this +small fight he returned to Bulawayo, where he was delighted to find his +friend Mr. Jackson, who had been given up for dead. Soon afterwards +Selous went on patrol and visited the Mangwe laager, and on the way saw +much of the ravages of the rinderpest. At one spot at a farm near +Bulawayo "acres of carcasses were lying festering in the sun." + +Various patrols, under Colonel the Hon. Maurice Gifford, Captain Brand, +Captain Van Niekerk, Captain Grey and others all had sharp fighting with +the Matabele, and relieved many isolated bodies of white men. + +In April Selous was appointed Captain of the "H" troop of the Bulawayo +Field Force, and went out to clear the road and establish forts at Fig +Tree and Mangwe. First he erected a very strong little fort called Fort +Molyneux. Further on, at Fort Halstead, he made another, and at the +Matoli river a third. All this he did with the Matabele army lying on +the Khami river, about twelve miles west of Bulawayo, whilst another +large army was in the Elibaini hills close by. Yet they did not attack +Selous' patrols or fort builders, and did not approach Bulawayo until +the middle of April, when a small fight occurred between the scouts +under Grey and Van Niekerk and a large body of the enemy. The scouts +then returned. Shortly after this Selous joined in patrols with Captain +Macfarlane and Captain Bisset in trying to dislodge the enemy from +positions close to the town, and in the last-named attack on the Umguza +the Matabele lost heavily. During this fight, and whilst firing hard, +Selous' pony ran away and he was soon surrounded by large numbers of +Matabele. + +The incident is best related in his own words:--[49] + + "A few bullets were again beginning to ping past us, so I did + not want to lose any time, but before I could take my pony by + the bridle he suddenly threw up his head and spinning round + trotted off, luckily in the direction from which we had come. + Being so very steady a pony, I imagine that a bullet must have + grazed him and startled him into playing me this sorry trick at + such a very inconvenient moment. 'Come on as hard as you can, + and I'll catch your horse and bring him back to you,' said + Windley, and started off after the faithless steed. But the + steed would not allow himself to be caught, and when his pursuer + approached him broke from a trot into a gallop, and finally + showed a clean pair of heels. + + "When my pony went off with Windley after him, leaving me, + comparatively speaking, _plante la_, the Kafirs thought they had + got me, and commenced to shout out encouragingly to one another + and also to make a kind of hissing noise, like the word "jee" + long drawn out. All this time I was running as hard as I could + after Windley and my runaway horse. As I ran, carrying my rifle + at the trail, I felt in my bandolier with my left hand to see + how many cartridges were still at my disposal, and found that I + had fired away all but two of the thirty I had come out with, + one being left in the belt and the other in my rifle. Glancing + round, I saw that the foremost Kafirs were gaining on me fast, + though had this incident occurred in 1876 instead of 1896, with + the start I had got I would have run away from any of them. + + "Windley, after galloping some distance, realized that it was + useless wasting any more time trying to catch my horse, and like + a good fellow came back to help me; and had he not done so, let + me here say that the present history would never have been + written, for nothing could possibly have saved me from being + overtaken, surrounded, and killed. When Windley came up to me he + said, 'Get up behind me; there's no time to lose,' and pulled + his foot out of the left stirrup for me to mount. Without any + unnecessary loss of time, I caught hold of the pommel of the + saddle, and got my foot into the iron, but it seemed to me that + my weight might pull Windley and the saddle right round; as a + glance over my shoulder showed me that the foremost Kafirs were + now within a hundred yards of us, I hastily pulled my foot out + of the stirrup again, and shifting my rifle to the left hand + caught hold of the thong round the horse's neck with my right, + and told Windley to let him go. He was a big, strong animal, and + as, by keeping my arm well bent, I held my body close to him, he + got me along at a good pace, and we began to gain on the Kafirs. + They now commenced to shoot, but being more or less blown by + hard running, they shot very badly, though they put the bullets + all about us. Two struck just by my foot, and one knocked the + heel of Windley's boot off. If they could have only hit the + horse, they would have got both of us. + + "After having gained a little on our pursuers, Windley, thinking + I must have been getting done up, asked me to try again to mount + behind him; no very easy matter when you have a big horse to get + on to, and are holding a rifle in your right hand. However, with + a desperate effort I got up behind him; but the horse, being + unaccustomed to such a proceeding, immediately commenced to + buck, and in spite of spurring would not go forwards, and the + Kafirs, seeing our predicament, raised a yell and came on again + with renewed ardour. + + "Seeing that if I stuck on the horse behind Windley we should + both of us very soon lose our lives, I flung myself off in the + middle of a buck, and landed right on the back of my neck and + shoulders. Luckily I was not stunned or in any way hurt, and was + on my legs and ready to run again, with my hand on the thong + round the horse's neck in a very creditably short space of time. + My hat had fallen off, but I never let go of my rifle, and as I + didn't think it quite the best time to be looking for a hat, I + left it, all adorned with the colours of my troop as it was, to + be picked up by the enemy, by whom it has no doubt been + preserved as a souvenir of my presence among them. + + "And now another spurt brought us almost up to John Grootboom + and the five or six colonial boys who were with him, and I + called to John to halt the men and check the Matabele who were + pursuing us, by firing a volley past us at them. This they did, + and it at once had the desired effect, the Kafirs who were + nearest to us hanging back and waiting for those behind to join + them. In the meantime Windley and I joined John Grootboom's + party, and old John at once gave me his horse, which, as I was + very much exhausted and out of breath, I was very glad to get. + Indeed, I was so tired by the hardest run I had ever had since + my old elephant-hunting days, that it was quite an effort to + mount. I was now safe, except that a few bullets were buzzing + about, for soon after getting up to John Grootboom we joined the + main body of the colonial boys, and then, keeping the Matabele + at bay, retired slowly towards the position defended by the + Maxim. Our enemies, who had been so narrowly baulked of their + expected prey, followed us to the top of a rise, well within + range of the guns, but disappeared immediately a few sighting + shots were fired at them. + + "Thus ended a very disagreeable little experience, which but for + the cool courage of Captain Windley would have undoubtedly ended + fatally to myself. Like many brave men, Captain Windley is so + modest that I should probably offend him were I to say very much + about him; but at any rate I shall never forget the service he + did me at the risk of his own life that day on the Umguza, + whilst the personal gallantry he has always shown throughout the + present campaign as a leader of our native allies has earned for + him such respect and admiration that they have nicknamed him + 'Inkunzi' (the bull), the symbol of strength and courage." + +After this exciting incident, Selous, having lost his horse, managed to +get another, and assisted Captain Mainwaring in repairing the telegraph +wires to Fig Tree Fort, which had been cut. He then rejoined his troop, +which arrived from Matoli. On the way they found the bodies of two +transport riders killed by followers of Babian and Umsheti.[50] + +Selous then built Fort Marquand on the top of a kopje, which commanded +the road and a splendid view of the surrounding country. After a brief +visit to Bulawayo he again went north to build a fort at the Khami +river, and afterwards visited Marzwe's kraal, which had been attacked by +an impi. + +On his return to Bulawayo he found the large column commanded by Col. +Napier despatched to the Tchangani river to meet the column coming from +Salisbury under Colonel Beal, with which was Cecil Rhodes. This column, +the largest sent out from Bulawayo, inflicted severe punishment on the +Matabele. On May 20th the Salisbury column was met, and after +considerable fighting the whole force returned to Bulawayo, having +suffered but small loss. On the way a number of the mutilated corpses of +white men and women were found and buried. The history of these murders +Selous relates in his book on the campaign.[51] + +Shortly before the arrival of the Field Force and Salisbury Column, +Colonel (now Sir Herbert) Plumer had arrived with a strong body of +troops from the south, and the back of the rebellion was broken, for +this gallant officer attacked the enemy and drove them from the +neighbourhood of Bulawayo, whilst in June General Sir Frederick +Carrington, who had now taken over the supreme command, cleared the +districts surrounding the Matoppo hills, and then to the north and east, +the rebels retreating as the patrols advanced. + +On June 7th Selous proceeded with Colonel Spreckley's patrol to Shiloh, +where but little resistance was encountered, and on the 4th of July the +campaign may be considered at an end, when the Bulawayo Field Force was +disbanded. Thus ended one of the many little native wars in which +British colonists, nobly assisted by Boer contingents, overcame under +great difficulties a strong and well-armed nation of savages, who, if +they had been properly organized, might easily have overwhelmed our +small forces. The Matabele, the last strong savage power in South +Africa, were beaten by good "morale" and tenacity on the part of the +whites, who were incensed at the brutal savagery displayed by their +enemies, for if they had not fought for their lives not only they but +all their wives and children would have been murdered. Mr. Labouchere's +choice phrase, "that the natives are being shot down like game at a +battue, with apparently as _little danger_ to the shooters as to those +killing hares and rabbits," was as great a travesty of the case as it +was mendacious. + +Selous, at any rate in 1896, was a firm believer in the future of what +is now called Southern Rhodesia, and at that date wrote: "It is known +throughout South Africa that Matabeleland and Mashunaland are white +men's countries, where Europeans can live and thrive and rear strong +healthy children; that they are magnificent countries for +stock-breeding, and that many portions of them will prove suitable for +Merino sheep and Angora goats; whilst agriculture and fruit-growing can +be carried on successfully almost everywhere in a small way, and in +certain districts, especially in Mashunaland and Manica, where there is +a greater abundance of water on a fairly extensive scale. + + "As for the gold, there is every reason to believe that out of + the enormous number of reefs which are considered by their + owners to be payable properties, some small proportion at least + will turn up trumps, and, should this proportion only amount to + two per cent, that will be quite sufficient to ensure a big + output of gold in the near future, which will in its turn ensure + the prosperity of the whole country." + +He moreover predicted that when the railway reached Bulawayo success +would be assured, but that this success would be destroyed if the +British South Africa Company's Charter was revoked and the affairs of +the colony administered by Imperial rule. Whether these hopeful views, +honest as they are, have been fulfilled, still remains to be seen. + +Shortly after the British occupation of Mashunaland the Chartered +Company made an immense effort to "boom" the country and induce settlers +and investors to become interested in it. The papers were filled with +accounts of the "New Eldorado," whose gold mines were to rival the Rand, +and whose lands were to teem with flocks and herds of sheep and cattle +on a scale that would make Canada and other parts of South Africa look +quite small. The effect was to drive up the Chartered L1 Shares to over +L7, and to create some apprehension in the minds of the few old South +Africans who really knew the assets of what is, as a matter of fact, a +country of only average possibilities. Its successful gold mines have, +after years of test, proved only of moderate wealth, and these are only +few in number, whilst the farming industry that was to have supplied the +wants of all the local population as well as great quantities of cattle +for export, has not yet proved a great success. In fact, after twenty +years, the gallant Rhodesian farmers are still living on hope. There are +too many adverse features against the man who farms stock in Rhodesia, +even if he possesses capital, whilst the settler without money has no +earthly chance to make good. Through all these years every effort has +been made by the Chartered Company to induce the right kind of settler +to go there, but on the whole their efforts have not met with any great +success, or, after all this time, we should not read the usual note of +hope in the "Times" report of the "Mashunaland Agency," November 17th, +1917:- + + "Test shipments of frozen meat have already been made from + Rhodesia to England, and the results were favourably reported on + by experts. It would seem, in short, that South Africa and + Rhodesia may well become successful competitors in the meat + supplies of the world, and this Company has already secured an + early start in this development of an important industry. We + have recently added sheep-breeding to our ranching operations, + although at present on a small scale only." + +The high rate of freight and expense of transport from an isolated +region like Rhodesia will be the great difficulty in the future, even if +they can raise the stock, and the country will have to compete with +Canada, New Zealand, and South America, all countries which have now +good, cheap, well-organized methods of transport and shipment. It must +not be supposed that Rhodesia has suffered altogether from a lack of the +right kind of settlers. On the contrary, the most cheerful, industrious +type of gentleman-farmer has tried to "make good" there and when backed +by capital has just managed, after years of toil, to make both ends +meet. If the reader wishes to know the absolute truth about conditions +of life there let him ask some of the old settlers who are independent +in opinion and have no land to sell, and let him read the novels of +Gertrude Page and Cynthia Stockley, and he will glean a far more +accurate picture of life in Southern Rhodesia than from any company +reports or blue books. Romance is often truth, whilst complete +distortion may lie in official dreams. + +The British South African Company is ever active in trying to get the +right kind of settlers in Southern Rhodesia and we have no fault to find +with them for that if they were to put them in healthy, fertile areas, +but what are the actual prospects of success there compared with other +British colonies. They too have a post-war land-scheme of offering +ex-soldiers a free land-grant of 500,000 acres. It sounds generous, but +if it is to grant free blocks of land (in Scotland) of the class offered +to ex-soldiers without capital by the Duke of Sutherland, I feel very +sorry for the poor soldiers. All the land of any value in South Rhodesia +is already taken up by settlers, whilst a great part of the country is +totally unfit for "white man" colonization. + +The following is written by a lady now resident as a farmer's wife in +South Rhodesia, and gives accurately the various pros and cons and the +prospect of success to-day in that colony. + + "Do not resign your position as any kind of brass hat to come + out here, if making money is your aim and object. Even our + wealthiest farmers are not on the way to being plutocrats. After + all, we are 6000 miles from our best market. But should fate or + fortune land you here, you who love the sky and the open road, + and the starry solitudes of an African night, the clear-cut + outline of granite hills against a sapphire sky and the + fragrance of a flower-jewelled veld, the whirr of startled birds + and the crash of game as it bounds through the bush, I think you + would find it difficult to return to the troglodyte life of + London.--ETHEL COLQUHOUN JOLLIE." ("The Field," April 6th, + 1918.) + +When the boom in "Things Rhodesian" was at its height, some truth of the +real state of affairs seemed to have reached British investors. Henry +Labouchere doubtless got hold of a good deal of perfectly correct +information and much that was decidedly otherwise. With his +characteristic audacity in exposing all shams he, in a series of +articles in "Truth," ruthlessly attacked the Chartered Company and all +exploiters and "boomers" of the new territory. Much of what he wrote was +the truth, but with it all, most of his criticisms were too scathing and +hopelessly inaccurate. Amongst those classed as rascals who came under +the lash of his pen was Fred Selous, a man who knew no more about +business than a child, and who was not associated in the smallest degree +with any financier, and who had never written one word about the country +he was not prepared to substantiate. To those who knew Selous and his +perfect immunity from all stock-dealing transactions the whole thing was +simply ridiculous, but the Great Public, after all, is too often prone +to believe any libel if it is constantly repeated. In consequence Selous +was much depressed by these attacks and resented them bitterly, for he +knew he was wholly innocent, yet being advised that he would not advance +his position by replying in the newspapers he resolved to bide his time +and reply to them _in toto_ in a work he had under preparation +("Sunshine and Storm in Rhodesia"). + +Mr. Burlace (of Rowland Ward, Ltd., who had bought the rights of his +new book) met Selous at Plymouth on his arrival in 1896, and fortunately +persuaded him not to mention controversial matters to the numerous +pressmen who were there and wished to hear what he had to say concerning +Mr. Labouchere's articles. Selous was, however, still anxious to thresh +out the whole matter in his book, but Mr. Burlace, who has very +considerable business knowledge and a firm conviction that the public do +not care two straws about controversial matters after the subject is, so +to speak, "dead," gave him good advice to avoid the discussion as far as +possible and to let the public learn by a man's own character, past and +future, who speaks the truth. That was sound logic, and Selous profited +thereby, although he did answer many of Labouchere's gross libels on the +Bulawayo Field Force. + +In many ways Rowland Ward and the members of his staff were good friends +to Selous for a considerable part of his life. They bought his specimens +at a good price, looked after his affairs at home before he married, and +helped him in a hundred ways. Rowland Ward purchased the rights of +Selous' new book, "Travel and Adventure in South-East Africa," and gave +the author a good sum of money for his work. If "A Hunter's Wanderings" +made Selous known to the public, "Travel and Adventures in South-East +Africa" assured his reputation, made money for him when he badly wanted +it, and fixed a definite value to his future books and the numerous +contributions he made to scientific and sporting literature. "Sunshine +and Storm in Rhodesia," published by Rowland Ward and Co., was also a +success and gave the public a clear and truthful account of the second +Matabele war and did much to enhance the author's reputation. This book +he dedicated to his wife "who, during the last few months, has at once +been my greatest anxiety and my greatest comfort." + +It had long been one of Selous' ambitions to add to his collection the +heads of that rare and beautiful antelope, the Nyala, or Angas's +bushbuck, _Tragelaphus angasi_, whose habitat was the dense bush +stretching along the coast from St. Lucia Bay, Zululand, to the Sabi +river in Portuguese territory, east of Mashunaland. It has also more +recently been found in Nyassaland. Wherefore, as soon as he left +Matabeleland and reached Kimberley, he left his wife and went to Delagoa +Bay, intending to hunt this animal for a short time in the dense +thickets which border the Pongolo and Usutu rivers in Amatongaland. Only +three Englishmen previously had had personal acquaintance with this +somewhat rare antelope, namely, Angas who discovered it, Baldwin in +1854, and Drummond, 1867-1872, all of whom wrote of its great beauty, +cunning nature, and the pestilential climate in which it lived. + +In Delagoa Bay Selous was fortunate enough to meet a certain colonist +named Wissels, who owned a small trading station near the junction of +the Pongolo and Usutu rivers, right in the heart of the habitat of the +Nyala. Wissels was returning home next day in his sea-going boat and +Selous made some swift preparations and accompanied him. In two days he +reached the Maputa and proceeded overland, with three women carriers, to +Wissels' station, where he found numerous freshly captured skins and +horns of the animal he had come to hunt. For the next few days, in +pouring rain, he crept through the bush with native hunters, and was +fortunate enough to bag three fine male and two female Nyala, a pair of +which are now in the Natural History Museum in London; the heads of the +two other males are in the collection at Worplesdon. He was somewhat +disappointed not to shoot the rare little Livingstone's Suni, one of +which he saw, as it was one of the few rare antelopes he did not +possess. After a long tramp of eighty miles through deep sand he reached +Delagoa Bay on October 7th, and then returned to Kimberley, and so to +England, not, however, completely escaping the inevitable attacks of +fever which are the lot of all who hunt the Nyala in the feverish swamps +and thickets of the East Coast. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[46] This unfortunate gentleman went to hunt hippopotami at the mouth of +the Limpopo. Neither he nor any members of his outfit were ever heard of +again and they may have been wiped out by the Matabele. + +[47] Lobengula's native name. + +[48] Col. Johan Colenbrander, as his name implies, was of Dutch origin. +He was born at Pinetown, Natal, in 1859. At the age of twenty he was a +skilled shot and hunter, and kept a general store in Swaziland close to +the King's kraal. His first wife Maria was then the only white woman in +Swaziland. She was a beautiful woman, one of the daughters of Mr. John +Mullins, of Natal, and was an expert rider and rifle-shot. Colenbrander +was a born hunter and fighter and took part in all the recent wars in +South Africa. He was also an excellent linguist, speaking fluently +several native dialects. He served with distinction in the Zulu War, and +in 1889 and again in 1890 accompanied the Matabele envoys to England as +guide and interpreter. From 1895 he held several positions under the +Chartered Company. In 1893 he remained with Lobengula as peace envoy +when the Pioneers entered Mashunaland. In 1896 he organized and +officered "Colenbrander's Boys," and in the second Boer War in 1901 he +took command of Kitchener's Fighting Scouts and rendered good service, +being mentioned in despatches and receiving the C.B. His second wife was +Yvonne, daughter of Captain Loftus Nunn, and she died after two years of +marriage, whilst his third wife Kathleen, daughter of Mr. James Gloster, +survives him. Colenbrander all his life liked to go where sport, life, +war and adventure called, and was ever a loyal friend to Britain. As a +hunter Selous reckoned him as one of the most experienced in South +Africa. He was unfortunately drowned in Feb., 1918, whilst taking part +in a cinema performance representing the Zulu War. As he was crossing +the Klip river his horse became restive, and he threw himself off and +tried to swim to the bank; when on the point of being rescued he threw +up his arms and sank. + +[49] "Sunshine and Storm in Rhodesia," pp. 161-163, published by Rowland +Ward and Co. + +[50] Lobengula's Prime Minister, whom I met in 1893 and whose portrait I +executed for the "Daily Graphic" in that year. + +[51] "Sunshine and Storm in Rhodesia." + + + + +CHAPTER X +1896-1907 + + +AS soon as Selous and his wife returned home at the end of 1896 he +finished off the notes he had made concerning the second Matabele War, +and delivered them to Rowland Ward & Co., who published his book, +"Sunshine and Storm in Rhodesia," shortly afterwards. From this time +forward he did a considerable amount of literary work, which, being in +demand, gave him sufficient money to satisfy many of his more pressing +wants at home, as well as supplying funds for the numerous short trips +he now made every year. Owing in a large measure to the kindly help and +advice given to him by a South African friend, his finances were now put +on a sound basis, and he was able to look forward to being able to live +at home in comfort without being denied those short periods of wandering +which to him were part of his existence. Of course there were always ups +and downs due to market fluctuations, and when things went wrong for a +while he would have fits of depression that he would be unable to hunt +any more; but these always passed away sooner or later when the clouds +lifted and some new piece of work commanded a good price. There is +little doubt that a man enjoys best that for which he has worked. All +Selous' later hunts were the outcome of his industry with the pen, and +in some measure from lectures, so he experienced some joy in the +working, for it meant to him the camp fire and the open road. + +In reading of his almost continuous wanderings after this date it must +not be supposed that he was not happy in his home life. As a matter of +fact no man considered himself more blessed by fortune in the possession +of wife and children, and every fresh expedition, when he felt impelled +as it were to go to the wilds, was fraught with misgivings and anxieties +for his loved ones at home. It was always a wrench when the time came. +He wrote once to Roosevelt on this point, and received the following +sympathetic answer:-- + +[Illustration: LIONS CHASING A KOODOO BULL.] + + "... After all, there is nothing that in any way comes up to + home and wife and children, in spite of the penalty one has to + pay for having given hostages to fortune. I know just exactly + how you feel about the 'two hearts.' Having a wife and six + children, of whom I am very fond, I have found it more and more + difficult to get away; for the last eight years, indeed, my + hunting trips have merely been short outings. I am of course + very much interested in my work here; but I cannot say how I + long at times for the great rolling prairies of sun-dried yellow + grass, where the antelopes stand at gaze, or wheel and circle; + for the splintered cottonwoods on the bank of some shrunken + river, with the wagon drawn up under them, and the ponies + feeding round about; for the great pine forests, where the bull + elk challenge, and the pack-train threads its way through the + fallen timber. I long also for the other wilderness which I have + never seen, and never shall see, excepting through your books, + and the books of two or three men like you who are now dead. It + may be that some time I can break away from this sedentary life + for a hunt somewhere; and of all things possible to me, I should + like to take this hunt among the big bears of Alaska, and try to + work out their specific relationship. But I don't know whether I + shall ever get the chance; and of course this sedentary life + gradually does away with one's powers; though I can walk and + shoot a little yet. Politics is a rather engrossing pursuit, + and, unfortunately, with us it is acute in the Fall, at the very + time of the best hunting; and as my children grow older I am + more and more concerned with giving them a proper training for + their life-work, whatever it may be. I don't yet accept the fact + that I shall never get the chance to take some big hunt again, + and perhaps it may come so I shall be able to; and meanwhile I + do revel in all the books about big game, and when I can get out + to my ranch even for ten days, I enjoy it to the last point, + taking an old cow-pony and shambling off across the grassy flats + for a few days' camping, and the chance of an occasional + prong-buck. + + "I am glad you like to chat with me even by letter. Ever since + reading your first book I have always wanted to meet you. I hope + I may have better luck next year than I had this. You will of + course let me know if you think I can be of any help to you in + your Canadian trip. + + "The Colonel X. whom I wrote to you about is, I am quite sure, + what we should term a fake, although I also have no doubt that + he has actually done a good deal of big game hunting; but I am + certain that, together with his real experiences, he puts in + some that are all nonsense. Did you ever read the writings of a + man named Leveson, who called himself 'the Old Shikari'? He was + undoubtedly a great hunter; yet when he wrote about American big + game, I know that he stretched the long bow, and I am very sure + he did the same about African big game. He everywhere + encountered precisely those adventures which boys' books teach + us to expect. Thus as soon as he got to Africa, he witnessed a + vicious encounter between black rhinoceroses and elephants, + which would have done credit to Mayne Reid; exactly as Colonel + X. relates the story of a fearful prize-fight, in which a + captive English Major slays a gorilla, against which he is + pitted by a cannibal king--dates, names and places being left + vacant. + + "What do you know of that South African hunter and writer named + Drummond? He wrote very interestingly, and gave most vivid + descriptions of hunting-camps, of the African scenery, and of + adventures with Hons and buffaloes; but his remarks about + rhinoceroses made me think he was not always an exact observer, + especially after I had read what you said. + + "By the way, did I ever mention to you that Willie Chanler's + party was continually charged by black rhinoceroses, and his + companion, an Austrian named Von Hoehnel, who stayed with me + once, was badly mauled by one." + +Like most schoolboys with a taste for natural history and an +adventurous disposition Selous had, as we have seen, been an industrious +bird-nester. In his youth he had commenced to make a collection of +European birds' eggs, and this taste, usually abandoned by most boys in +after-life, was in him only dormant. When he set out to do anything he +generally carried it through to the end; and so when opportunity came +again, as it did after his wanderings in South Africa were finished, he +seized it with avidity. He was much too good a naturalist to collect +eggs wholesale, as some collectors unfortunately do, but contented +himself with one or two clutches taken by himself. His contention was, I +think, a correct one, that if only one clutch of eggs of a bird is +taken, the same bird either sits again and lays a fresh set of eggs or +makes a new nest. So little or no harm is done. + +Being a member of the British Ornithologists' Union he knew all the +regular egg-collectors, and soon obtained the best information where +various species were to be found. Each year as April came round he +packed his bag and, occasionally accompanied by some local enthusiast, +he went to all the best resorts of rare birds in England, Scotland, the +Orkneys, Asia Minor, Spain, Hungary, Holland, and Iceland. + +Thus in 1897 he commenced the egg-hunting season by going to Smyrna in +February with the intention of taking the nests of the large raptorial +birds which there breed very early in the year. The point he made for +was the Murad Dagh, a range of mountains in the interior of Asia Minor, +where he knew the short-toed, golden and imperial eagles, and the black +and griffon vultures nested. He also had some hopes that he might secure +one of the big stags before they dropped their horns. On his journey he +suffered much from the cold in the mountains, and was also at first +unsuccessful in finding any of the big stags, who seemed to have been +hunted out of the range. He saw three fine stags but did not succeed in +finding one of those which he had wounded. He then returned to Smyrna +and went into the Maimun Dagh again. Here he took the eggs of black +vulture, griffon vulture, short-toed eagle and laemmergeier. Getting +tired of this range he went on to the Ak Dagh, where he took one golden +eagle's nest, three griffon vultures' eggs, and two of black vultures. +He also shot a young red deer, with which was a fine old stag that had +just dropped its horns. He returned to England in March. + +In England he commenced his nesting operations in April by hunting +Thatcham Marsh (near Reading) for water-rails' nests, and took two. Then +he went on to the Scilly Isles for sea-birds. + +He says, in a letter to me: "I am going to Brabant if I can obtain a +permit from the Dutch Government to collect a few eggs, and after that +to Scotland, where I shall remain until it is time to leave for +America." In Scilly, he says: "I got eggs of the Greater and Lesser +Black-backed Gulls, Herring Gull, Manx Shearwater, Oyster-catcher, and +Ringed Plover, but found no Terns breeding." On June 8th he decided to +put off his trip to Holland, as it was too late. I then gave him +particulars where he could get Arctic, Lesser and Sandwich terns in +Scotland, and also obtained permission for him to take two Capercaillie +nests. All of these he obtained. + +In any collection of hunting trophies, the gems of all collections (with +perhaps the exception of the red deer of Europe and the great sheep and +goats of Central Asia) are the great deer of North America, and Selous +had for long envied the possessors of such fine specimens of moose, +wapiti and caribou as had been obtained in the seventies and eighties of +the last century. It is true that as good moose and caribou can be +killed to-day as ever; but the great wapiti, owing to their curtailed +range, are gone for ever, so a hunter to-day must be content with +inferior specimens. In 1897 three or four specimens of wapiti were +allowed to be killed in the restricted area south of the Yellowstone +Park, and it was with the intention of killing these as well as other +North American game that Selous turned to the West in August, 1897. + +In his youth Selous, like other boys of similar tastes, had devoured the +works of Ballantyne, Mayne Reid, Catlin, and Kingston, relating to fact +and fiction, and had always desired to visit America as one of his +lands of dreams. But it was not civilized America that appealed to him. +Cities are the same all the world over. It was the land of vast plains +and trackless forests swarming with game that appealed to him; and if he +could not, alas, now find such a hunter's paradise, he could at least +see something of the little that was truly wild which was left and +perhaps obtain a few fair specimens for his collection. Once, it is +true, he had actually taken his passage to America. That happened in +1893, but the outbreak of the Matabele war in that year had caused him +to alter his plans and he went back to South Africa instead. + +Selous had a good friend, W. Moncrieff, who owned a small cattle ranch +in the heart of the Big Horn Mountains in Wyoming. Here in the adjoining +forests and mountains still lived a remnant of the bears, wapiti, +mule-deer and sheep that had formerly been so abundant, and the local +knowledge enjoyed by Moncrieff enabled him to furnish Selous with the +best information. Accordingly he left England accompanied by his wife, +and, passing through Canada, reached the ranch on the last day of +August. Next day the party on horses, accompanied by a waggon with one +Bob Graham as a guide, struck into the mountains and, after passing over +the main range of the Big Horns, descended into the Big Horn basin. This +is covered with sage brush, and is still the home of a few prong-horned +antelopes, two of which, one a good male, Selous succeeded in shooting. + +The hunters then proceeded up the south fork of Stinking Water, and +established a main camp in the forests, where a few very shy wapiti +males were still to be found. For twenty days Selous toiled in a mass of +dense and fallen timber before he carried his first wapiti head back to +camp. Wapiti are in fact now both shy and scarce, and a man must +persevere and work continuously, at least early in the season, before +even one fair specimen can be found, but Selous greatly enjoyed the +grandeur and wildness of the scenery, and being still in the prime of +life the exertion of daily toil did not in any way affect his energy. On +September 29th he shot his first mule-deer buck. A little snow came and +helped to make tracking easier. Then Selous had some luck, and he +killed four wapiti, two in one day, and a fifth near Davies' ranch on +October 28th. Near the same place too he killed one of the few remaining +white-tailed deer-bucks in Wyoming, but its head was rather a poor one, +that of an old male "going-back." Selous wrote an account of this trip +to Roosevelt, then Assistant Secretary to the American Navy, and +received (November 30th, 1897) the following reply:-- + + "Your letter made me quite melancholy--first, to think I wasn't + to see you after all; and next, to realize so vividly how almost + the last real hunting-grounds in America have gone. Thirteen + years ago I had splendid sport on the Big Horn Mountains which + you crossed. Six years ago I saw elk in bands of one and two + hundred on Buffalo Fork; and met but one hunting expedition + while I was out. A very few more years will do away with all the + really wild hunting, at least so far as bear and elk are + concerned, in the Rocky Mountains and the West generally; one of + the last places will be the Olympic Peninsula of Oregon, where + there is a very peculiar elk, a different species, quite as big + in body but with smaller horns, which are more like those of the + European red deer, and with a black head. Goat, sheep, and bear + will for a long time abound in British Columbia and Alaska. + + "Well, I am glad you enjoyed yourself, anyhow, and that you did + get a sufficient number of fair heads--wapiti, prong-buck, + black-tail, and white-tail. Of course I am very sorry that you + did not get a good sheep and a bear or two. In the north-eastern + part of the Park there is some wintering ground for the elk; and + I doubt if they will ever be entirely killed out in the Park; + but in a very short while shooting in the West, where it exists, + will simply be the kind that can now be obtained in Maine and + New York; that is, the game will be scarce, and the game-laws + fairly observed in consequence of the existence of a class of + professional guides; and a hunter who gets one good head for a + trip will feel he has done pretty well. You were in luck to get + so fine a prong-buck head. + + "Do tell Mrs. Selous how sorry I am to miss her, as well as + you. I feel rather melancholy to think that my own four small + boys will practically see no hunting on this side at all, and + indeed no hunting anywhere unless they have the adventurous + temper that will make them start out into wild regions to find + their fortunes. I was just in time to see the last of the real + wilderness life and real wilderness hunting. How I wish I could + have been with you this year! But, as I wrote you before, during + the last three seasons I have been able to get out West but + once, and then only for a fortnight on my ranch, where I shot a + few antelope for meat. + + "You ought to have Hough's 'Story of the Cowboy' and Van Dyke's + 'Still Hunter.' Also I think you might possibly enjoy small + portions of the three volumes of the Boone and Crockett Club's + publications. They could be obtained from the 'Forest and + Stream' people at 346 Broadway, New York, by writing. Have you + ever seen Washington Irving's 'Trip on the Prairie,' and Lewis + and Clarke's Expedition? And there are two very good volumes, + about fifty years old, now out of print, by a lieutenant in the + British Army named Ruxton, the titles of which for the moment I + can't think of; but I will look them up and send them to you. He + describes the game less than the trappers and hunters of the + period; men who must have been somewhat like your + elephant-hunters. When I was first on the plains there were a + few of them left; and the best hunting-trip I ever made was in + the company of one of them, though he was not a particularly + pleasant old fellow to work with. + + "Now, to answer your question about ranching; and of course you + are at liberty to quote me. + + "I know a good deal of ranching in western North Dakota, eastern + Montana and north-eastern Wyoming. My ranch is in the Bad Lands + of the Little Missouri, a good cattle-country, with shelter, + traversed by a river, into which run here and there perennial + streams. It is a dry country, but not in any sense a desert. + Year in and year out we found that it took about twenty-five + acres to support a steer or cow. When less than that was allowed + the ranch became overstocked, and loss was certain to follow. Of + course where hay is put up, and cultivation with irrigation + attempted, the amount of land can be reduced; but any country + in that part of the West which could support a steer or cow on + five acres would be country which it would pay to attempt to + cultivate, and it would, therefore, cease to be merely pastoral + country. + + "Is this about what you wish? I have made but a short trip to + Texas. There are parts of it near the coast which are + well-watered, and support a large number of cattle. Elsewhere I + do not believe that it supports more cattle to the square mile + than the north-western country, and where there are more they + get terribly thinned out by occasional droughts. In Hough's book + you will see some description of this very ranching in Texas and + elsewhere. I really grudge the fact that you and Mrs. Selous got + away from this side without my even getting a glimpse of you." + +As he had only shot two wapiti with fair heads and one mule-deer with +average horns, Selous decided to have a second hunt in the Rockies, with +the object of obtaining better specimens. In November, as a rule, there +is heavy snow in the mountains, and this has the effect of driving the +game down out of the heavy timber into more open ground where "heads" +can more easily be seen and judged. Accordingly in October, 1898, Selous +went to Red Lodge in Montana and there met the hunter Graham. This time +he went up the north fork of Stinking Water to the forest and about +twelve miles east of the Yellowstone Park. Mild weather, however, +throughout November was all against seeing any quantity of game, so +Selous was again somewhat disappointed with the results of this hunt. + +After this trip, in 1898, he wrote to me:-- + + "Come here yourself as soon as you can. _Vous serez toujours le + bienvenu._ A damned newspaper reporter (an American, who came + here whilst I was in London, and would not go away until he had + seen me) said I have got some good wapiti heads, but I only got + one _fair_ one. I got four wapiti bulls altogether, but two had + very small heads--not worth taking. I got four mule-deer stags, + one with a very nice head and a second not at all bad. I also + shot another lynx; but I had very unfortunate weather, hardly + any snow, and when I left the Mountains the wapiti were still up + in their early autumn range." + +Selous was rather disappointed in not obtaining better wapiti heads, and +wrote in his book ("Travels East and West") that bigger heads of deer +could now be killed in Hungary than in the Rockies. Commenting on this, +Roosevelt, in a letter to him at a later date, says:-- + + "By the way, I was in the winter range of the deer (Colorado), + and I have never seen them so numerous. They were all black-tail + (mule-deer). Every day I saw scores, and some days hundreds. + There were also elk (wapiti). I did not shoot either deer or + elk, of course; but I saw elk-antlers shot last fall, ranging + from 52 to 56 inches in length. I think you were a few years + ahead of time (although only a few years) when you stated that + already bigger antlers could be secured in Hungary than in the + Rockies." + +In this doubtless Roosevelt was correct; but Selous had hunted in a +district where all good heads had been picked off, and the range and +feed of wapiti had been so curtailed that even at this date and now it +is practically impossible to obtain a good specimen. + +In April, 1899, he went with his wife to Wiesbaden, returning in June. +In October he paid a short visit to his friend, Mr. Danford, in +Transylvania, where he killed some good specimens of chamois--one, a +female, having horns 11 inches long. In November he came home again, and +having some thought of hunting elk in Norway in the following year, +wrote to me in November, 1899: "I want to hear all about your hunt in +Norway, so come over here at once. I am very glad to hear you were so +successful with the elk and bear, and should much like to have a try +next year, if I could stand the work, which I have always heard is very +hard." This hunt, however, failed to materialize. + +One of Selous' beliefs was that it was impossible for men to hold wide +sympathies and to lead others towards the light unless they had been +through the grinding-mill of experience in other lands. His broad-minded +outlook made him a cosmopolitan in one sense of the word, for he found +good and something ever to learn from the men of all nations; yet +withal at heart he was intensely English of the English, and believed in +our destiny, as a nation, as a guiding light to universal understanding. +His view was that no man had any right to express an opinion on another +nation unless that man had lived amongst the people he criticized _and +could speak their language_. Such a theory would no doubt be unpopular, +but it is right. In international differences all kinds of people +express their views in contemporary literature just because they happen +to have the ear of the public; but how many of these really know +anything about the people they criticize. A popular cry is raised, and +the mob follow like a flock of sheep. An instance of this was the +complete misunderstanding of the causes of the Boer War and Boer nation. +There were not half a dozen men in England or Africa to tell the public +at home the true state of things, and when they did express their views +they were quickly drowned in a flood of lies and misrepresentations by +interested politicians and gold-magnates who held the press. Men like +Selous and Sir William Butler, because they told the absolute truth, +were dubbed "Pro-Boers," when in reality they were the best examples of +"Pro-English" Englishmen. They simply could not be silent amongst the +welter of falsehoods, and only tried to stem the flowing tide of +mendacity. Their strongly expressed view that the war would not be a +walk-over for us, and that we were fighting a gallant foe who deemed +themselves right in defending their country, which had been most +distinctly given back to them by inviolable treaties (made by the +Gladstone Government), was correct, and that they would fight +desperately and to a large extent successfully was abundantly proved by +subsequent events. If Selous made a mistake it was in allowing certain +letters to the "Times" and "Morning Post" to appear _after the war had +commenced_. I have reason, however, to believe that these letters were +written and sent in prior to the commencement of hostilities, and that +they were "held over" to a time when their appearance was, to say the +least of it, unfortunate. + +In justice to Selous, however, it must be said that after this he kept +silent, nor did he ever utter a word publicly in the matter. He felt +that we were now hopelessly involved, and that anything he could say +would be of little use. Though he felt sad and disappointed over the +whole matter, he was far too much a patriot to do other than wish +success to our arms, though he ever hoped that some amicable settlement +would evolve out of the whole disastrous affair. Afterwards too he often +expressed his appreciation of the noble way in which the subsequent +British Government treated the Boers, both at the conclusion of peace +and the liberal manner in which we sought to bury the hatchet--a manner +which unfortunately has not always met with success amongst the older +Boer irreconcilables. Men like Botha and Smuts have proved that our +later policy has been broad-minded and humane, and that in time we shall +amalgamate in one South African Dominion a nation absolutely loyal to +the British Crown; but it will be a long time before the malcontents +have lost all their bitterness and a new generation understands what is +meant by a Greater South Africa. + +His true feelings as regards the war are thus stated in a letter to me, +November 5th, 1899:-- + + "This war is a most deplorable business; but of course, as you + say, we _must_ bring it to a successful conclusion now at + whatever cost; but think what South Africa will be like when it + is over. However, it is useless talking about it. My letters to + the 'Times' have raised a great deal of ill-feeling against me + in this country." + +And again, writing January 1st, 1900, he says:-- + + "I am very depressed about this war. It is a bad business, and + justice is not on our side. There was a lot of dirty work done + by the capitalists to bring it about, and no good can come of it + for this country. I have seen several letters written by Jan + Hofmeyr during the last few months, beginning before the war. + They are very interesting, and I hope will be published some + day. They seem to explode the idea of the leaders of the Cape + Africanders having been in a conspiracy of any kind with the + Pretoria lot." + +From 1872 onwards Selous had known and studied the Boers intimately. He +had lived and hunted with them from the Orange Free State to +Matabeleland, and had found them a simple race of hunter-farmers, +intensely patriotic and hopelessly conservative. He knew that "they are +neither angels nor devils, but just men like ourselves," and that the +views of the British, German and Jew storekeepers and traders of the +Transvaal and Orange Free State were hopelessly wrong, because they did +not know the real back-veldt Boers of the country, who made up the +majority of the Nation. He himself had never received anything but +kindness and straight dealing from them, and was therefore able to +appreciate their indignation and outbursts of fury when a second +annexation was contemplated by our Government. He replies to the charge +that life for Englishmen was impossible in the Transvaal after the +retrocession to the Boers of that country in 1881: "Mr. Rider Haggard +has told us that he found it impossible to go on living in the Transvaal +amid the daily insults of victorious Boers, and he also tells us that +Boers look upon Englishmen with contempt, and consider them to be +morally and physically cowards. I travelled slowly through the Transvaal +by bullock-waggon shortly after the retrocession of the country in 1881, +and visited all the farmhouses on my route. I met with no insults nor +the least incivility anywhere, nor ever heard any boasting about Boer +successes over our troops, though at that time I understood the 'Taal' +well. In common with all who really know the Boers, who have lived +amongst them, and not taken their character at second-hand, I have +always been struck by their moderation in speaking of their victories +over our soldiers. As for the Boers having a contempt for Englishmen as +individuals, that is nonsense. They hate the British Government, and +knowing their history, I for one think they have ample reason for doing +so. But the individual Englishman that they know, they take at his real +value. There are of course, unfortunately, certain Englishmen in +Johannesburg, or people who are now put down as Englishmen, who could +not but appear as contemptible to a Boer as they would do to most people +in this country. But, on the other hand, I could name many Englishmen +and Scotchmen, men who have been honest and upright and fearless in all +their dealings with their neighbours, who have been held in immense +respect by all the Boers of their acquaintance. These men, however, +lived amongst the Boers, spoke their language, and took a sympathetic +interest in their lives; whilst one of the troubles of the present +situation in the Transvaal is that the Uitlander population of +Johannesburg is, in its sympathies, its mode of life, and all its hopes +and aspirations, as wide as the poles asunder from the pastoral Boers, +with whom it never mixes, and whom it therefore does not understand." +(Letter to the "Times," October 24th, 1899.) + +This was also exactly my own experience as recently as 1893, when I +lived entirely and trekked with Boers for a year. Never was I ever +treated except with the greatest kindness both by my own intimate +friends or casual acquaintances, once I had learnt to speak the "Taal," +nor did I ever hear them "crow" over their victories of 1881. There was, +however, always the latent fear that the British Government would again +play them false, and they would be once more forced to fight us; but +with individual Englishmen they liked and trusted there was no sign of +animosity.[52] + +In June, 1900, Selous was asked to sign a protest, issued by the "South +Africa Conciliation Committee," inaugurated by W. L. Courtney (editor of +the "Fortnightly Review"). In the following letter, however, written to +the Secretary, he manifests his sound common-sense in separating the +"causes of the war" from what could be done at the moment when our +forces were actually fighting and likely to prove victorious. His +grievance was with the authorities who brought about the war and the +methods which had been employed to make it, and not with the conduct +thereof or its natural effects. Wherefore he refused to sign the +protest, and gave his reasons as follows:-- + + "_August 3rd, 1900._ + + "I have left your circular so long unanswered because I have + been thinking over it very deeply, and because, although I + realize most fully the force of all the arguments that can be + used against the annexation of the Boer Republics, I still think + that those who sign the protest ought to be able to propose some + scheme of settlement which holds out a better prospect of future + peace. I personally can think of no such scheme. Had honourable + terms been offered to the Boers, and the independence of their + countries been assured to them with certain necessary + limitations, immediately after the occupation of Pretoria, there + might have been great hope for the future peace of the country, + but all that has occurred, not only in the Transvaal and Orange + State, but also in the Cape Colony, must have caused such a + feeling of exasperation amongst the Dutch Africanders against + the British Government, that I cannot but feel that the granting + of a limited independence to the Boer Republics would not now + produce rest or peace. Things have gone too far for that now, + and it seems to me that Great Britain will only be able to hold + South Africa in the immediate future by force. I am of course + convinced of the truth of all you say in the protest, that the + annexation of the Boer Republics is 'contrary to the public + declarations of Her Majesty's Ministers, alien to all the best + traditions of a freedom-loving country, burdensome to the + resources of the nation, and wholly distasteful to the majority + of our fellow-subjects in South Africa,' but that does not blind + me to the fact that the race hatred that has been engendered by + this war is so deep and so terrible that the granting of + independence to the Boer Republics would be more immediately + disastrous to British supremacy in South Africa than unjust + annexation accompanied by the garrisoning of the country with + large numbers of troops. Annexation or no annexation, I firmly + believe that sooner or later the people who actually live in + South Africa--as distinguished from those whose only interest in + the country is the exploitation of its mineral wealth--will + govern the country, and, if they wish it, have their own flag, + and throw off all allegiance to Great Britain. I would gladly + sign any protest against the policy which brought about the war, + one of the results of which is this ill-omened annexation of + independent states, but I am beginning to think, with John + Morley, that annexation was an almost necessary result of a war + pushed to the bitter end. I am very sorry to have troubled you + with so long a letter, but I wish you to understand that, + although my views as to the iniquity of the policy which brought + about the war will always remain the same, and although I think + the annexation of the two Boer Republics a piece of injustice + and a national disgrace, and would most willingly have signed a + protest against it three months ago, I now feel the exasperation + caused by the war is so great that the independence of the Boer + Republics might very possibly be used against British supremacy + in South Africa. It is a very distressing outlook, and I can see + no light in the future; but still I do not feel justified in + signing the present protest. I beg to thank you for the last two + leaflets you sent me, Nos. 53 and 54. The publication of Colonel + Stonham's evidence, as to the humanity of the Boers, ought to + have a very good effect if it could be made widely known." + +After this the war drew on slowly to its eventual finish in 1901, +Selous' only public contribution being a letter to the "Speaker," which +was used by the South African Conciliation Committee in its efforts to +influence the Government, and part of this letter, which deals with the +effects of the war on the Boer population and the future, is worth +quoting:-- + + "Should it, however, be determined to erase the Boer Republics + from the map of Africa and to carry on the war to the point of + practically exterminating the able-bodied male population of + these two sparsely-peopled States, let it not be thought that + the surviving women will bring up their children to become + loyal British subjects. Let Englishmen remember that the men who + prophesied that within a short time after the war was over the + Boers would become reconciled to the British, whom they would + then have learnt to respect, are the same people who also told + us that the war would be a very short and simple campaign, as + the Boers were a degenerate, cowardly race, who could no longer + shoot at all well, and who would be sure to disperse to their + homes after the first battle, if only a hundred of them were + killed. These were the sort of predictions which were very + commonly heard in this country a few months before the war + commenced, and they were the utterances of men wholly ignorant + of the Boer character. + + "As showing that there are people whose opinions are entitled to + respect who think differently, I will now quote from memory a + passage in a letter lately written by a well-known and + well-educated Dutch Africander to a friend in this country: + 'Those people who expect that the Boers will soon forgive and + forget this war, and settle down quietly under the British flag, + are most terribly mistaken. I think I know my own countrymen, + and I believe that if, after this war is over, the independence + of the Republics is destroyed, the historic episode of Hamilcar + making Hannibal swear eternal enmity to Rome will be re-enacted + in many a farmhouse throughout the Transvaal and Orange Free + State. The Boer women will teach their children to hate the very + name of England, and bid them look forward to the day when their + country will be freed from British domination.' These words, + even if the idea they express is somewhat exaggerated, are + worthy of attention when it is remembered how rapidly the Boers + increase in numbers and fighting strength." ("The Speaker," + 1900.) + +After this he only expressed his views to a few personal friends, such +as President Roosevelt, who was in close sympathy with his hopes that +peace on a fair basis might soon be restored. In reply to one of his +letters, Roosevelt, writing March, 1901, says:-- + +[Illustration: THE WANDERING MINSTREL.] + + "It makes me melancholy to see the Boer War hanging on. Your + limit of eighteen months (the time Selous stated it would last) + is rapidly approaching. Of course there can be only one ending; + but it is a dreadful thing to have the ending come only by the + exhaustion of the country and of the fighting men. How I wish + you could be made administrator of all South Africa. Somehow I + feel that you could do what no other man could do, and really + bring about peace. I begin to be afraid you have been right + about this war. I hope we shall see things go right hereafter." + +It is interesting too to study both Roosevelt's and the American +attitude towards our policy in the Boer War. In reply to Selous' +explanation of the whole matter the American statesman thus writes +(March 19th, 1900):-- + + "I appreciate very deeply the trouble you have taken in writing + to me; although in a way your letter has made me feel very + melancholy. My idea of the questions at issue has been mainly + derived from the 'Spectator,' a paper that I take and always + like, and which impresses me as being honestly desirous of + getting at the true facts in any given case. I paid especial + heed to what it said because of its entire disapproval of Cecil + Rhodes and the capitalist gang. Moreover, a friend of mine, + Ferdinand Becker, who was in the Transvaal and who saw very + clearly the rights and wrongs of each side, and for whose + judgment I have great respect, insists that as things actually + were the war was inevitable, _that there had to be a fight, and + that one or the other race had to be supreme in South Africa_. + By the way, much of the pro-Boer feeling here is really + anti-English, and as I have a very warm remembrance of England's + attitude to us two years ago, I have of course no sympathy with + such manifestations. So I thought after Montague White's visit + to me that I should like to hear the other side from someone + whom I could thoroughly trust, and I appealed to you. It is + largely an academic curiosity on my part, so to speak, for the + answer of the English Premier to the communication of + transmissal sent by President McKinley with the letters from the + Presidents of the two Republics shows that any mediation would + be promptly rejected. I do not suppose that the end can be very + far distant now, unless there is a formidable uprising in the + Cape Colony, for it would look as if there had never been fifty + thousand Boers under arms, and Roberts has four times that + number of troops in South Africa. Evidently the Boers are most + gallant fighters, and quite as efficient as they are gallant. + + "I had been inclined to look at the war as analogous to the + struggles which put the Americans in possession of Texas, New + Mexico, and California. I suppose the technical rights are about + the same in one case as in the other; but, of course, there is + an enormous difference in the quality of the invading people; + for the Boers have shown that they have no kinship with the + Mexicans. In Texas the Americans first went in to settle and + become citizens, making an Outlander population. This Outlander + population then rose, and was helped by raids from the United + States, which in point of morality did not differ in the least + from the Jameson raid--although there was at back of them no + capitalist intrigue, but simply a love of adventure and a + feeling of arrogant and domineering race-superiority. The + Americans at last succeeded in wresting Texas from the Mexicans + and making it an independent Republic. This Republic tried to + conquer New Mexico but failed. Then we annexed it, made its + quarrels our own, and did conquer both New Mexico and + California. In the case of Texas there was the dark blot of + slavery which rested on the victors; for they turned Texas from + a free province into a slave republic. Nevertheless, it was of + course ultimately to the great advantage of civilization that + the Anglo-American should supplant the Indo-Spaniard. It has + been ultimately to the advantage of the Indo-Spaniard himself, + or at any rate to the advantage of the best men in his ranks. In + my regiment, which was raised in the South-West, I had forty or + fifty men of part Indian blood and perhaps half as many of part + Spanish blood, and among my captains was one of the former and + one of the latter--both being as good Americans in every sense + of the word as were to be found in our ranks. + + "If the two races, Dutch and English, are not riven asunder by + too intense antagonism, surely they ought to amalgamate in South + Africa as they have done here in North America, where I and all + my fellows of Dutch blood are now mixed with and are + indistinguishable from our fellow Americans, not only of + English, but of German, Scandinavian, and other ancestry. + + "The doubtful, and to my mind the most melancholy, element in + the problem is what you bring out about the Englishman no longer + colonizing in the way that the Boer does. This is a feature due, + I suppose, to the enormous development of urban life and the + radical revolution in the social and industrial conditions of + the English-speaking peoples during the past century. In our + Pacific States, and even more in Australia, we see the same + tendency to the foundation of enormous cities instead of the + settlement of the country districts by pioneer farmers. Luckily, + America north of the Rio Grande and Australia definitely belong + to our peoples already, and there is enough of the pastoral and + farming element among us to colonize the already thinly-settled + waste places which now belong to our people. But the old + movement which filled the Mississippi valley at the beginning of + this century with masterful dogged frontier-farmers, each + skilled in the use of the rifle and axe, each almost independent + of outside assistance, and each with a swarm of tow-headed + children, has nearly come to an end. When Kentucky, at the close + of the eighteenth century, was as populous as Oregon 100 years + later, Kentucky did not have one-tenth of the urban population + that Oregon had when she reached the same stage. Now, urban + people are too civilized, have too many wants and too much + social ambition, to take up their abode permanently in the + wilderness and marry the kind of women who alone could be + contented, or indeed could live in the wilderness. On the great + plains of the West, when I was in the cattle business, I saw + many young Easterners and young Englishmen of good families who + came out there; but not one in twenty, whether from the Atlantic + States or from England, married and grew up as a permanent + settler in the country; and the twentieth was usually a + _declasse_. The other nineteen were always working to make money + and then go home, or somewhere else, and they did not have their + womankind with them. The 'younger son' of whom Kipling sings is + a picturesque man always, and can do very useful work as a + hunter and explorer, or even a miner, but he is not a settler, + and does not leave any permanent mark upon any true + frontier-community with which I am acquainted. After the + frontier has been pushed back, when the ranchman and the cowboy + and the frontier-ganger, who are fitted for the actual + conditions, have come in, then the 'younger son' and the + struggling gentleman-adventurer may make their appearance in the + towns. Of course, there are exceptions to all of this, but as a + rule what I have pointed out is true. I have seen + scores--perhaps hundreds--of men from Oxford and Cambridge, + Harvard and Yale, who went into cattle-growing on the Great + Plains, but they did just as I did; that is, worked with greater + or less success at the business, gained an immense amount of + good from it personally, especially in the way of strength and + gratifying a taste for healthy adventure, learned much of human + nature from associating with the men round about, and then went + back to their own homes in England or New York or Boston, + largely because, when it came to marrying and bringing up + children, they could not well face the conditions; and so the + real population of the future in the valleys of the upper + Missouri, the Platte, and the Rio Grande, will be composed of + the sons of their companions, who were themselves descendants of + small farmers in Texas, Missouri, and Illinois, or of + working-men from Scandinavia and Germany. + + "Pardon this long letter, which has wandered aside from the + thesis with which it started. I hope that the language of the + more highly civilized people will, in spite of the evil + influences of to-day, gradually oust the 'Taal' or whatever you + call Boer Dutch in South Africa, and that when the conquest of + the two Republics is succeeded by the full liberty which I + understand the Cape Dutch enjoy, there will come a union in + blood as well as in that between the two peoples who are so + fundamentally alike. + + "I am looking forward to the receipt of the three books you have + been so very kind as to send me. I do know a certain amount + about the Boers from the time of their great trek onward, for + it has always seemed to me to be one of the most fascinating + bits of modern history." + +In the spring of 1900 Selous went on a bird-nesting trip to the forest +and marshes of the Danube in Hungary, and was successful in getting the +eggs of many new species for his collection. When he arrived home in +June he found his finances in low water, owing to enlarging his house, +and so feared he would be unable to make an extensive autumn hunt, but +later on things improved, and he was able to go West after all. + +In September, 1900, he went to Canada to hunt moose, and arrived at +Mattawa, Ontario, on September 24th. On this trip he was fortunate in +securing the services of George Crawford, a half-breed Indian, who was +probably the best moose-caller and hunter in that province. In spite of +the number of American hunters who at this time made the districts of +Kippewa and Tamiskaming their favourite hunting-grounds, Crawford always +knew where to go to secure moose, and it was not long before Selous +reached a hunting-ground, about three days north of Mattawa, on Lake +Bois Franc, where he killed two fine bulls. After this short trip he +went to Snake Lake to try and secure a good white-tailed deer stag, but +was not very successful, as he only secured a four-year-old buck with +moderate horns. On October 26th he landed in Newfoundland and, being +supplied with bad information, went by railway from Port-aux-Basque to +Howley, a station on the main line, where the annual slaughter of +caribou took place late in the season. + +It was not long before Selous found that the so-called "sport" of +shooting caribou on migration as they crossed the line in their southern +migration was not sport at all, and that frequently, owing to the number +of bullets flying in all directions fired by enthusiastic meat-hunters, +the shooting was likely to result in human as well as cervine +casualties. Moreover, hardly any good stags come south with the mass of +does and immatures, so, taking his guide Stroud and an old man named +Robert Saunders he left the place in disgust and went south to the Terra +Nova river, intending to strike into the heart of the country and, if +possible, catch up the main body of the migrating deer before they cast +their horns and reached their winter-quarters near the south coast. But +he was too late, and after an onerous tramp, during which he penetrated +beyond the limits reached by other white men, he was forced to return +owing to lack of food, but not before his sharp eyes had seen numerous +trees stripped by "summering" stags in the neighbourhood of St. John's +Lake. These signs convinced him that the local movements of the deer +were unknown even to the hunters in Newfoundland, and that the big stags +would probably be found in autumn in the heart of the island, and not on +migration in the north. In this he was quite correct. He did not, +however, go home without a specimen, for he killed one nice stag on his +journey inland. + +Accordingly he made plans to hunt in the neighbourhood of St. John's +Lake in the following autumn of 1901, and procuring two canoes from +Peterborough in Ontario, and enlisting the services of Saunders and his +cousin John Wells, he ascended the rocky Terra Nova river in September. +To the reader it may seem easy to go seventy miles in a canoe up-stream, +but the fact that previous hunters had not been there proves that there +were difficulties. No Newfoundland boats in fact would withstand the +rocky benches of this swift-flowing river, so progress can only be made +for the most part by wading and dragging the canoes, whilst the hunter +has to force his way through dense forest, so thick at times that an axe +has to be used for progress to be made before reaching the higher +plateaux, where lakes and streams are easily passed. Once on Lake St. +John, all was easy, and Selous found game abundant and a small migration +of big stags already in progress.[53] + +Moreover, Selous was lucky enough to have struck a good year for +"heads." In less than eight days he shot his five stags, two of which +carried remarkably fine heads--one, in fact, a forty-pointer, which he +killed by a long shot close to his camp, being one of the finest +specimens ever killed in the island by any sportsman. Selous often spoke +afterwards of this trip as being one of the pleasantest he ever had in +his life. + +He writes, October 6th, 1901:-- + + "I am back from Newfoundland. I had a short but very successful + little trip into quite new country, thanks to my canoes, and + shot the five stags my licence entitled me to kill very quickly. + I have got one really remarkable head, a second, very handsome, + with beautiful double brow-antlers, and very fine tops; and a + third, a pretty regular head of medium size--the other two not + much to boast about. But my two good heads are really fine, and + when you see them you will never rest till you go to my new + ground and get more like them. I can give you all particulars + when we meet, and have arranged that my guide--hardly the right + word, as we got into country where he had never been in his life + and where he says no one has ever yet hunted, except a few + Micmac Indians who were out after caribou, but trapping beavers + along the rivers--shall keep himself unengaged for you up to + June next." + +In December we had some good days together in Shropshire, at Sir Beville +Stanier's, shooting partridges, and at Swythamley with the Brocklehursts +killing driven grouse in a blizzard. Selous, though then over fifty, was +much fitter and more active than many a man of twenty-five, and the way +he walked and talked was a joy to behold. After dinner he would begin +telling stories, and at 1.30 was still hard at it when most of us were +dying to go to bed. Nothing could curb his enthusiasm once a congenial +topic was started, and his avidity was such both for acquiring and +dispensing knowledge that time itself seemed all too short. + +Early in January, 1902, he went to Smyrna for the purpose of +egg-collecting, with the added expectation of getting a shot at a stag +or wild goat, and on March 5th writes:-- + + "I got back from Asia Minor last week, with a good series of + eggs of the White-tailed Eagle and one Laemmergeier's egg. I + found two Laemmergeiers' nests, both with young birds, but I got + an addled egg which I was able to blow. I had no shooting, + though I made an attempt to get a shot at a stag, but there was + so much snow in the mountains that the Turks would not take + pack-ponies in for fear of getting snowed up." + +On August 11th we were all at Swythamley again enjoying the hospitality +of Sir Philip Brocklehurst and having some very excellent shooting. One +day we shot the park and killed 1170 rabbits, and a notice of this event +given in the "Field," as 5851/2 brace of grouse, a good bag, indeed, for +Staffordshire, was a statement so far from the truth that we easily +traced it to the old squire's love of nonsense. + +Having some time at his disposal in September, Selous resolved to take a +short run out to Sardinia for the purpose of adding specimens of the +Mouflon to his collection. Most of the English hunters who have killed +this very sporting little sheep have pursued it in March, at which time +of year the Mouflon are mostly hidden in the tall "Maquia" scrub (_Erica +arborea_), where they are difficult both to find and to stalk. Someone, +however, had given Selous the hint that if he went to Sardinia in late +September he would see the sheep on the open hills, when they would +probably afford much better sport. This was quite true, but +unfortunately for the hunter the autumn of 1902 was one of the wettest +on record, and Selous, after the first few days of good weather, when he +killed three fair rams, lived for a fortnight in pouring rain and +discomfort in a leaky tent, and had eventually to give up the chase in +disgust. He came back, however, with a high admiration for the +intellectual abilities of the little Mouflon, and resolved at some +future date once again to visit the "elevated farmyard,"[54] as someone +has termed these mountains of "the Isle of Unrest." + +On November 17th he left on his first trip to British East Africa, +taking the German boat at Marseilles to Mombasa. As this trip was +somewhat experimental he made no large plans and merely wished to get a +few specimens of the common species of mammals found there. This he +hoped to do by making short trips in the neighbourhood of the line. At +this time, even so near civilization, British East Africa was truly a +big game paradise. + +Writing to Abel Chapman concerning this, Selous says:-- + + "My trip to East Africa last year (1902-1903) cost me just L300, + but I think I did it cheaper than most people. I got fairly good + heads of Coke's, Neumann's, and Jackson's Hartebeests, Topis, + Impala, Bushbucks, Oribis, Steinbucks, and Cavendish's Dik-diks. + I did not get a Jackson's Wildebeest as, although there were + thousands all along the line when I went up country, when I came + back to try to get one, they had migrated south. I saw lots of + Common and Defassa Waterbucks, but no good heads, so never shot + one. Also hundreds of Elands. I did not actually see a Rhino., + but often got quite fresh spoor; but I did not want to shoot one + of these animals as I have good specimens from South Africa." + +He reached home in March, 1903, and the spring of this year was, as +usual, spent in egg-collecting. He writes, June 30th:-- + + "I have just finished my egg-collecting season. I got a + Dotterel's nest on the top of Ben Wyvis, also a couple of + Ptarmigans' nests, which are difficult to find. I got too + several nests of Grasshopper Warbler, Wood Wren, and Pied + Flycatcher in Northumberland, but I had a very good local man to + help me." + +The year 1904 was a very busy one for Selous, and the following letter +to me gives some idea of his energy in hunting for the eggs of birds of +which he has not yet taken specimens. + + "During the last few days I have been marking King-fishers' + nests on the Thames and Water Rails' nests in Thatcham Marsh, + for Major Stirling (of Fairburn), who has been very kind to me + in Scotland and helped me to get all sorts of good eggs. I have + got him two Kingfishers' nests marked that I am sure have eggs + in them, and also two Water Rails' nests. One of these had six + eggs in it yesterday. We go to Wargrave for the Kingfishers + to-morrow, and to Thatcham for the Water Rails on Thursday. On + Friday I am off to North Wales, where I hope to get a Chough's + nest. During the first half of May I shall be here, and will + come over to see you during that time. On May 15th I start for + Ross-shire, to get Crossbills, and then on to Orkney to get eggs + of Hen Harrier, Short-eared Owl, Twite, etc. On May 26th I must + be at Ravenglass, in Cumberland, to get a couple of clutches of + Sandwich Terns' eggs (by permission), and the next day on the + Tyne for Pied Flycatchers, Grasshopper Warblers, etc. Then back + to Orkney early in June for Merlins, Black Guillemot, Eider + Duck, etc. Then I think I shall try for a Scoter's nest near + Melvick, in Sutherlandshire, and I wind up the season with a + trip to St. Kilda with Musters to get eggs of Fork-tailed Petrel + and Fulmar. Are there any old orchards about you? If so, we + might look them over for a Hawfinch's nest about May 10th. I am + not going to lend any of my heads to the Crystal Palace people. + They wrote to me about it, but I have declined to send them any + heads."[55] + +Later in the year he wrote one of his characteristic letters, speaking +of his successes in egg-hunting and expressing his sorrow at the death +of our mutual friend, Sir Philip Brocklehurst:-- + + "I am now home again from my egg-collecting trip to the north. I + have had a fairly successful season. I got two Choughs' nests in + North Wales in April, and several Water Rails' near here in a + nice little swamp I know of. In Orkney I got Hen Harrier, + Short-eared Owl, Merlin, Eider Duck, Dunlin, Golden Plover, Rock + Pipit, and Twite. I have also taken this year in Northumberland + and Cumberland nests of Wood Wren, Grasshopper Warbler, Pied + Flycatcher, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Sandwich Tern, and Shell + Duck. Now I want a nest of Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers. There are + a few about here, but I cannot find out where they nest. I am + going to the Crystal Palace to-morrow, and shall see your + Caribou heads there I hope. Now I want you to help me. I am + President of our village cricket-club, and have got together a + team to play them on July 9th (Saturday). I am experiencing + great difficulty in getting an eleven together. Will you help me + and play for me on that day? If so, please come here in time for + lunch. We do not play till 2.30 p.m. Now can you come? Do, if + you can, and bring another man with you. Please let me know + about this as soon as possible, as I must now begin to hustle to + get my team together. Isn't it sad to think that poor old Sir + Philip Brocklehurst has gone? If we ever go to Swythamley again, + things can never be as they were in the old Squire's time. I + feel his loss very much. If you are at home now I should like to + come over and see you and have our usual 'crack,' my dear + Johnny." + + +Just before leaving for Canada on July 14th he writes:-- + + "What with people coming to see us here, garden-parties, + cricket, political meetings, etc., there seems to be no time for + anything. I hope you will have a good time Whale-hunting in + August in the Shetland Isles. Write us a good account of it and + make some good pictures." + +Leaving England on July 14th, 1904, Selous reached Dawson City, on the +Yukon, on August 8th. He went via Vancouver, and much enjoyed the +pleasant voyage up the North Pacific coast, which abounds in islands and +forests, and in scenic effect is much superior to Norway, which it +resembles. Here he joined a party of sportsmen who had chartered a +flat-bottomed steamer to take them up the north fork of the MacMillan +river, a branch of the Yukon. There was, however, a delay of ten days, +and as Selous could not endure inactivity he spent the time, with the +help of a half-breed Indian and a pack-horse, in the Ogilvy Mountains, +where he found and killed a male caribou of the variety which I have +recently described under the name of _Tarandus rangifer ogilvyensis_, +one of the many sub-specific races of reindeer of the North American +Continent as yet somewhat imperfectly known. Selous then returned to +Dawson, and the hunting party being assembled on the little steamer, a +start up-stream was made on August 21st. After proceeding some distance +up the Yukon, the Pelly, and then the MacMillan for five days through +shallow and tortuous channels, the steamer could go no further. At Slate +Creek two Americans, Professor Osgood the Zoologist, and Carl Rungius +the artist of mammals, left to establish a hunting-camp there, whilst +Selous and his friend, Mr. Charles Sheldon, a well-known hunter and +field naturalist, passed up the north fork of the MacMillan, the rest of +the party going up the south fork. Selous soon killed a moose cow for +meat, and in a few days Sheldon, reconnoitring up in the mountains, +found a good camping-place on the edge of timber-line, so Selous and his +friend then left the canoes and carried their heavy packs up the +mountain. Whilst doing so Louis Cardinal, the half-breed hunter, spied a +bull moose lying in the scrub, and Selous soon worked down to it and +killed it at short range. Sheldon's chief object of pursuit was the wild +sheep of these ranges, _Ovis fannini_, whilst Selous' was to obtain good +moose and caribou, and, if possible, grizzly bears and sheep. + +In the first two days Selous killed a fine caribou bull of the +sub-specific race _Tarandus rangifer osborni_, a fine form of reindeer +that exists from the Itcha Mountains in British Columbia to the east of +the Kenai Peninsula. This variety, which is only found west of the Rocky +Mountains, intergrades to the south with _Tarandus rangifer montanus_ of +southern British Columbia, and to the north-west with _Tarandus rangifer +stonei_ of the Kenai peninsula. It is by far the finest of the American +caribou, with the exception of the nearly extinct race, a branch of +_Tarandus rangifer labradorensis_, which belongs to the north-east +corner of Labrador, and carries fine massive horns from 50 to 61 inches +long, but not furnished as a rule with many points.[56] Selous was much +cheered in getting so easily two fine specimens of this great deer at +once. One night in the middle of September a fine display of the Aurora +Borealis with its magnificent tongues of flame was observed, and Selous +rightly says, "I count these splendours of the Arctic sky as amongst the +most marvellous of all the wonders of the world," an opinion all who +have seen them will endorse. + +In the next few days Selous killed another bull moose, but not a large +one, carrying a head with a span of 50 inches, and then an old bull +with horns evidently going back. At last dawned a day of great good +fortune, for the hunter met and killed a great bull whose horns have +seldom been equalled by any taken out of the Yukon Territory. The horns, +measuring 67 inches across, a width not often surpassed even in the +Kenai peninsula, were very massive, and carried 41 points; the skull and +horns weighed over 75 lbs. "Altogether," he says, "it seemed to me I had +at last obtained a trophy worth a king's ransom," for to a hunter such +as he no bag of gold or diamonds would have seemed more precious. + +Meanwhile his friend, Charles Sheldon, had not been so fortunate as he +usually was in finding the big sheep rams, and had only shot a few +immatures and females and young for the extensive collection he +afterwards formed for American museums, and, as the season was now late +and the prospect of the "freeze up" imminent, the two hunters abandoned +their hunting-camp and started down-stream on the return home. After +some disappointments, one in which Sheldon lost a fine bull moose owing +to a misfire, Selous and his companion reached Plateau Mountain, where +Osgood and Rungius, who had enjoyed some good sport with moose and +caribou, were again met. The whole party then went down-stream, and had +some difficulty in getting through the ice which was now forming, but +reached Selkirk safely on October 7th. On the whole this had been a very +successful trip for Selous, but he was a little disappointed in not +getting sheep, grizzly, and black bears. + +His own account of the whole trip is as follows:-- + + "My dear Johnny,--Just a line to tell you that I got home again + from the Yukon country yesterday (November 7th). I shall have a + lot to tell you about it when we meet. The original trip that I + was invited to join fell through, as neither the governor of the + Yukon Territory was able to go nor my friend Tyrrel who invited + me to join the party. There was a lot of delay, and eventually + three Canadians, three Americans, and myself hired a small + flat-bottomed steamer to take us up the Pelly and MacMillan + rivers. This took much longer than was expected, and it was not + till August 30th that we got to the furthest point to which the + steamer could take us. Then we all split up, and an American + (Charles Sheldon, an awfully good fellow, whom I hope I shall be + able to bring over to see you one of these days) and myself (we + had chummed up on the steamer) tackled the north fork of the + MacMillan river. We had each a twenty-foot canoe and one man. My + man was a French half-breed, and Sheldon's a white man, both + first-rate fellows. We had a very 'tough' time getting the + canoes up the river, as the stream was fearfully strong and the + water very cold. We were in the water most of every day for six + days, often up to our waists, hauling the canoes up with ropes. + Then we reached the foot of a big range of mountains. The day we + left the steamer bad weather set in and we had 18 days of filthy + weather, sleet and snow, and the whole country covered with + snow. On September the 6th or 7th we packed up into the + mountains, carrying everything on our backs to close up to + timber-line (about 5000 feet in this northern country, the point + where we left the timber being about 2500 feet above sea-level). + No Indians to pack, no guides, no nothing, and damned little + game either, though we were in an absolutely new country, where + there are no Indians at all, and only four trappers in the whole + district, and these men never go up into the high mountains. + There were any quantity of beavers up the north fork of the + MacMillan. The trappers have not yet touched them and they are + wonderfully tame. We could find no sheep rams in the mountains, + only small flocks of ewes and kids. Moose after September 18th + were fairly numerous, but by no means plentiful. I only saw + three caribou, one a very good bull, whose head will, I think, + interest you. I believe it is the kind that Merriam calls + Osborn's caribou, a very large heavy animal, with horns rather + of the Barren Ground type, but finely palmated at the top. I + shot four bull moose and spared two more. One of my moose has a + right royal head, and pays me well for all my trouble. The + spread across the palms, with no straggly points, is 67 inches, + and it has 41 points (23+18). My second best head measures 581/2 + inches across the palms, with 22 points (11+11). I boxed my + heads in Vancouver, and hope to get them some time next month, + and you must come and see them as soon as they are set up." + +In the autumn of 1905 he went on his third trip to Newfoundland, in +order to see something more of the interior of the island and to shoot a +few caribou. The country he now selected was that in the neighbourhood +of King George IV Lake, a district that had only previously been visited +by two white men, Cormack, its discoverer, in 1822, and Howley in 1875. +This is not a difficult country to reach, as canoes can be taken the +whole way, and there are no bad "runs" or long portages. The autumn of +1905 was, however, perhaps the wettest on record, and it poured with +rain every day, whilst, as to the caribou stags, they carried the +poorest horns in any season, owing to the severity of the previous +winter. In this trip, in which he was accompanied by two excellent +Newfoundlanders, Joseph Geange and Samuel Smart, Selous saw large +numbers of caribou, but did not obtain a single good head, and though he +enjoyed the journey, the trophies killed were somewhat disappointing, +and especially so as he had broken into quite new country.[57] + +Selous' own account, in a letter to me, November 22nd, is as follows:-- + + "By the time you get this letter I shall be at home again, or at + any rate in London. I have to commence my lecturing on December + 4th, but if I can get a spare day before then I will come over + and see you. My experience in Newfoundland was much the same as + yours. I saw a lot of caribou, but no very large heads. I had, + too, terribly bad weather, almost continuous rain and sleet + storms on the high ground near George IV Lake. By-the-bye, Mr. + Howley tells me that to the best of his belief I am the third + white man who has visited that lake. The first was Cormack, who + named it a long time ago, and the second Mr. Howley, who was + there in 1875. The caribou in the country between King George's + Lake and the head of the Victoria river live there. I saw + non-travelling deer there, all the herds were stationary, + feeding or lying down in one spot all day long. Lots of trees + too along the river, where the stags had cleaned their horns. + Packing in from Lloyd's river to the north-west, I struck some + splendid caribou-ground. Here the deer were all on migration + southwards. As a matter of fact, I did very little systematic + hunting, but a lot of tramping, always carrying a 40 lb. pack + myself. I have got one very pretty head of 36 points, very + regular and symmetrical, but not large. In a storm of driving + sleet it looked magnificent on the living stag. I have another + head I like, and some others of lesser merit, one of them for + the Natural History Museum. I have preserved a complete animal + for them." + +[Illustration: OSBORN'S CARIBOU.] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[52] As an instance of this I may mention that the greater number of the +"hunting" Boers I lived with and knew well were captured in the +Middelburg district in 1900 by a party of Steinacker's horse, who +surprised the commando at dawn. All were captured except Commandant +Roelef Van Staden, my former hunter, one of the finest men it has ever +been my good fortune to meet in any land. He fought his way out +single-handed and escaped. When brought into camp these Boers were well +treated by Colonel Greenhill-Gardyne (Gordon Highlanders), who asked +them if they knew me, to which they replied that I was the only +Englishman they had ever known and that they would consider it a favour +if he would kindly send a message of friendship to me, detailing their +capture and certain misfortunes that had befallen some of their families +in the war. They were also particularly anxious that I should know that +Van Staden had escaped. This letter I treasure, for it shows that the +Boers have no personal animosity to those who have once been their +friends. + +[53] This is very unusual, for in four seasons' hunting there, I never +found the deer move at so early a date as September 15th. + +[54] On the hills of Genna Gentu, the principal home of the Mouflon in +Sardinia, the native shepherds allow their cattle and herds of sheep and +goats to graze amongst the wild sheep and this constant disturbance +keeps all creatures constantly on the move. + +[55] Later he was persuaded to lend his heads for the exhibition, but +few visitors saw the collection. + +[56] I was so fortunate as to kill one of these caribou in the Tanzilla +Mountains on the borders of Alaska, with fifty-three points, in 1908, +but this was quite an exceptional head of an unusual type. + +[57] This year I was hunting in the Gander forests about 75 miles +south-east of King George IV Lake and saw an immense number of caribou +stags, but only one with a first-class head, a 35-pointer, which I was +fortunate enough to kill. Later in the season I saw most of the heads +killed in the island and there was not a good one amongst them. + + + + +CHAPTER XI +1906-1907 + + +In April, 1906, Selous went all the way to Bosnia just to take the nest +and eggs of the Nutcracker, and those who are not naturalists can +scarcely understand such excessive enthusiasm. This little piece of +wandering, however, seemed only an incentive to further restlessness, +which he himself admits, and he was off again on July 12th to Western +America for another hunt in the forests, this time on the South Fork of +the MacMillan river. On August 5th he started from Whitehorse on the +Yukon on his long canoe-journey down the river, for he wished to save +the expense of taking the steamer to the mouth of the Pelly. He was +accompanied by Charles Coghlan, who had been with him the previous year, +and Roderick Thomas, a hard-bitten old traveller of the North-West. +Selous found no difficulty in shooting the rapids on the Yukon, and had +a pleasant trip in fine weather to Fort Selkirk, where he entered the +Pelly on August 9th. Here he was lucky enough to kill a cow moose, and +thus had an abundance of meat to take him on the long up-stream journey +to the MacMillan mountains, which could only be effected by poling and +towing. On August 18th he killed a lynx. At last, on August 28th, he +reached a point on the South Fork of the MacMillan, where it became +necessary to leave the canoe and pack provisions and outfit up to +timber-line. Here almost immediately he killed a cow caribou for meat, +and a comfortable camp was soon made. During the following days Selous +hunted far and wide, and found that Osborn's caribou was as plentiful in +these ranges as his friends in the previous year had found them. He +killed six splendid bulls, one of which is now to be seen, mounted +whole, in the Natural History Museum, and in a short time got all the +specimens he wanted. One day he saw a large black animal, which he took +to be a bear, coming towards him, and eventually killed it at a distance +of 400 yards. It proved to be a black variety of the wolf--a somewhat +rare animal to kill with the rifle, and curiously enough he killed +another a few days later. + +Before leaving the mountains he shot a good bull moose and missed +another, whilst going down-stream, at 30 yards. A second shot, however, +killed the animal, and gave the hunter another fine specimen with horns +63 inches across. Selous reached Selkirk on September 20th, and so had +no difficulty in getting out before the ice formed. + +As soon as he got home he wrote to me telling of the results of his +trip, and I give it as showing the sympathetic nature of his disposition +for the sorrows of others:-- + + "The first part of your letter awoke afresh all my sympathy for + you and poor Mrs. Millais in your sorrow for the loss of your + dearly beloved child. I suppose you can never hope to forget + what you once possessed and can never have again, nor would you + wish to do so; but time is merciful, and whilst never forgetting + the sweetness of disposition of your dear child, the sorrow for + her loss will gradually hurt you less and less. At least I trust + it will be so. I am so glad to hear that you have got such a + splendid lot of caribou heads this year. You well deserve them, + for you have taken a lot of trouble to get them. You must now + have quite a unique collection of Newfoundland caribou heads. I + got one good moose this year 631/2 inches spread (measured by Mr. + Burlace the other day) and another pretty head of 52 inches + spread. Besides these two I only saw one other bull moose--a + fair-sized head. I saw a good many caribou, but no large heads. + Every big bull I saw seemed to have a well-grown head. On August + 29th I saw a single old bull and shot him. The next day I saw + another bull with ten cows and shot him. These heads were both + in velvet, but fully grown out and the velvet just ready to peel + off. On September 1st I saw another single bull and shot him; + and on the following day got another close to camp. Both these + bulls had their horns quite clean of velvet, not a shred left on + any part. I then went away to another range of mountains to look + for sheep and moose, returning again to the caribou-ground about + the middle of September. On my first day I came across four + splendid old bulls all together. They all had big heads, and I + got close to them and could have shot them all, but I let two of + them go after killing the other two, which seemed to me to have + the finest horns. Whilst I was skinning the animals I had shot + (with my half-breed Indian) three more big bulls _and a hornless + cow_ came and lay down on a knoll about 400 yards away. One of + these seemed to have very large horns; but I thought that six + was enough, so I let them alone. I think three or four of the + heads I have got are pretty good, but much better no doubt could + be got if one waited till they got into large herds after the + rutting season. Burlace makes my longest head 571/4 inches, + another is 55 inches, and two others just over 51 and 50. Two of + them have an inside spread of 48 inches. One head is of quite a + different type to the other five. It is only about 40 inches + long and very like a Newfoundland head with beautiful tops. + Besides the caribou and moose I only got two wolves--very fine + ones, and one of them black. I saw no bears at all, and only + female sheep. I am going away on Saturday, December 1st, + lecturing (with a two days' interlude at Beville Stanier's), and + shall not be home again from Scotland till December 15th. On + December 17th I go away again till the 20th; but after that I + shall be at home for a long time. Let me know when you get your + heads home, and I will then come over to look at them, and you + must come and see my Yukon heads as soon as I get them from + Ward's." + +In May, 1907, he went to Asia Minor to take the eggs of sea and +raptorial birds, living on or near the Mediterranean coasts. + + In June he wrote: "I was very pleased to see the letter you + wrote to the 'Field' about poor Arthur Neumann. I had thought of + writing something myself, but did not know him as well as you + did. I shall never cease to regret his loss. I look upon him as + the last of the real genuine hunters of African big game." + +Arthur Neumann, the celebrated elephant-hunter, was born at Hockliffe +Rectory, in Bedfordshire, in 1850. In 1868 he went to Natal and later to +Swaziland, and acted as interpreter during the Zulu war in 1879. From +1885-1887 he hunted much in South Africa, and after a time went to East +Africa, where he helped to survey the line from the coast to Lake +Victoria Nyanza. After another visit to South Africa he made his first +journey after elephants to the East of Mount Kenia and killed large +numbers of bull elephants. + +In 1896 he was badly injured by a cow elephant, and returned to Mombasa +in October, 1896. In 1899 he took part in the second Boer war, and in +1902 returned to East Africa and had another successful hunt, getting +some immense tusks. + +In 1903-1904, hunting in Turkana, Turkwel and the Lorian swamp, he +killed many elephants, and made his last expedition in 1905-1906, when +his ivory realized L4500 on sale in London. He was a pioneer like +Selous, and wherever he went made a favourable impression on the +native--helping greatly to advance our hold on British East Africa. He +died suddenly in 1907. + +In August, 1907, Selous went on a little hunt after reindeer in Norway, +as the guest of his old friend, Captain P. B. Vanderbyl, a hunter who +has had perhaps as great a general experience of big game hunting as any +man living. In this trip Selous shot five good stags in seven days' +hunting, but was not so fortunate as to get a first-class specimen, +although some of his heads were good. Of this trip Captain Vanderbyl +kindly sends me the following note: + + "Although friends of many years' standing, Selous and I only did + one shooting-trip together, and that was after Reindeer in + Norway. We sailed from Hull to Stavanger in August, 1907, and + marched in with pack-ponies a few miles from the head of the + Stavanger Fjord to Lyseheien, where a small shooting-box had + been recently erected. + + "Owing to a five years' close season which had just terminated + we found the reindeer fairly numerous, and not too difficult to + approach, but as they always feed up-wind, and cover a lot of + ground, we had some days to walk long distances before spying + any. + + "We arrived at Lyseheien a few days before the opening of the + season, and spent the time walking after ryper, of which we used + to get 12 or 15 brace a day, and although Selous was never a + good shot with the gun, he showed the same keenness after the + birds as he did for any form of sport. He had to leave Norway a + few days before I did, in order to see his boys before they + returned to school. + + "We were quite successful on this trip, and secured thirteen + stags between us, with some good heads among them. When not + hunting, we beguiled the time with some French novels Selous + produced, and I never knew of his liking for this kind of + literature before. + + "We both enjoyed the trip thoroughly, and were surprised to find + so wild and unfrequented a hunting ground within about three + days journey of London." + +During this season I was camped on the highest part of the range, some +thirty miles to the north. A heavy snowstorm, lasting for six days, +occurred on September 1st, and drove all the deer south-west to +Lyseheien, which accounted in some measure for the excellent sport +enjoyed by my friends. + +Reindeer are at all times subject to these sudden local migrations, and +the very uncertainty of the sport makes it somewhat fascinating and +difficult. In Norway it is now difficult to secure a good reindeer head +for this reason, and the fact that indiscriminate poaching, even on what +is called strictly preserved ground, prevails. + +During the winter of 1907 and early in the following year Selous devoted +himself to finishing his book "African Nature Notes and Reminiscences" +(published by Macmillan & Co. in 1908), a work which he wrote +principally at the instigation of his friend, Theodore Roosevelt. In +this he devotes the first two chapters to his views on protective +coloration and the influence of environment on living organisms. For +lucidity and accuracy of treatment he never wrote anything better or +more clearly discounted the views of theoretical naturalists. It is a +model of conclusive argument backed by sound data. Commenting on his +remarks Ex-President Roosevelt thus gives his opinions on the subject +(November 1st, 1912):-- + + "It is a misfortune that in England and America the naturalists + should at the moment have gotten into an absolutely fossilized + condition of mind about such things as protective coloration. + Both the English and the American scientific periodicals are + under the control of men like Professor Poulton and others who + treat certain zoological dogmas from a purely fetichistic + standpoint, exactly as if they were mediaeval theologians. This + is especially true of their attitude toward the doctrine of + natural selection, and incidentally toward protective + coloration. There is much in natural selection; there is much in + protective coloration. But neither can be used to one-twentieth + the extent that the neo-Darwinians, such as Mr. Wallace and the + rest, have used them; indeed these neo-Darwinians have actually + confused the doctrine of natural selection with the doctrine of + evolution itself. + + "Heller is coming home soon. He has just written me from Berlin, + where he saw our friend Matzchie who, you doubtless remember, + has split up the African buffalo into some twenty different + species, based on different curves of the horns. Matzchie told + Heller that he had read my statement that of the four bulls I + shot feeding together near the Nairobi Falls, the horns, + according to Matzchie's theory, showed that there were at least + two and perhaps three different species (among these four bulls + from the same herd). Well, Matzchie absolutely announces that + doubtless there were two species among them, because the + locality is on the border-line between two distinct types of + buffalo, that of Kenia and that of the Athi! I think this is one + of the most delightful examples of the mania for + species-splitting that I have ever seen. On the same basis + Matzchie might just as well divide the African buffalo into a + hundred species as into twenty; and as for the elephant he could + make a new species for every hundred square miles. + + "Apparently your 'African Nature Notes' was 'hoodooed' by my + introduction and the dedication to me; but I cannot help hoping + that you will now publish a book giving your experiences in East + Africa and up the White Nile. Without the handicap of my + introduction, I think it would do well! Seriously, the trouble + with your 'African Nature Notes' is that it is too good. The + ideal hunting-book ought not to be a simple record of slaughter; + it ought to be good from the literary standpoint and good from + the standpoint of the outdoor naturalist as well as from the + standpoint of the big game hunter. Stigand's books fulfil both + the latter requirements, but he has not your power to write well + and interestingly, and he has a rather morbid modesty or + self-consciousness which makes him unable to tell simply and as + a matter of course the really absorbingly interesting personal + adventures with which he has met. Unfortunately, however, the + average closet naturalist usually wants to read an utterly dry + little book by some closet writer, and does not feel as if a + book by a non-professional was worth reading--for instance, I + was interested in London to find two or three of my scientific + friends, who knew nothing whatever about protective coloration + in the field, inclined to take a rather sniffy view of your + absolutely sound and, in the real sense, absolutely scientific, + statement of the case. On the other hand, the average man who + reads hunting-books is too apt to care for nothing at all but + the actual account of the hunting or of the travelling, because + he himself knows no more about the game than the old Dutch and + South African hunters whom you described used to know about the + different 'species' of lion and black rhinoceros. Nevertheless I + am sure that your 'African Nature Notes' will last permanently + as one of the best books that any big game hunter and + out-of-doors naturalist has ever written. Charles Sheldon was + saying exactly this to me the other day. By the way, I hope he + will soon write something about his experiences in Alaska. They + are well worth writing about. I am much irritated because + Shiras, some of whose pictures I once sent you, will not make + any use of his extraordinary mass of notes and photographs of + American wild game and the rarer creatures of the American + forests and mountains. + + "I am sending you herewith a rather long pamphlet I have + published on the subject of protective coloration. Thayer + answered the appendix to my 'African Game Trails,' in a popular + Science Monthly article, re-stating and amplifying his + absurdities. Men like Professor Poulton treat him with great + seriousness, and indeed Professor Poulton is himself an + extremist on this subject. I thought it would be worth while + going into the subject more at length, and accordingly did so in + the bulletin of the American Museum of Natural History, and I + send you a copy. I shall also send one to Stigand. Do write me + about your experiences." + +Roosevelt was in a measure responsible for this excellent book, and it +was due to his encouragement that Selous undertook its publication. He +sent it in parts to his friend, who thus summarizes the author's +literary style:-- + + "I have been delighted with all the pieces you sent me, and have + read and re-read them all. Do go on with your lion article. I + earnestly wish you would now write a book describing a natural + history of big game. You are the only man alive, so far as I + know, who could do it. Take S.'s book, for instance, which you + sent me. It is an excellent book in its way, but really it is + only a kind of guide-book. The sole contribution to natural + history which it contains is that about the wolves and the big + sheep. But you have the most extraordinary power of seeing + things with minute accuracy of detail, and then the equally + necessary power to describe vividly and accurately what you have + seen. I read S.'s book, and I have not the slightest idea how + the sheep or the ibex or the deer look; but after reading your + articles I can see the lions, not snarling but growling, with + their lips covering their teeth, looking from side to side as + one of them seeks to find what had hurt it, or throwing up its + tail stiff in the air as it comes galloping forward in the + charge. I can see the actual struggle as the lion kills a big ox + or cow buffalo. I can see the buffalo bulls trotting forward, + stupid and fierce-looking, but not dangerous unless molested, + while they gaze from under their brow-armour of horn at the + first white man they have ever seen. I can see wild hounds, with + their ears pricked forward, leaping up above the grass to see + what had shot at the buffalo they were chasing. + + "I was immensely interested in your description of these same + wild hounds. And what a lesson you incidentally give as to the + wisdom of refraining from dogmatizing about things that + observers see differently. That experience of yours about + running into the pack of wild hounds, which, nevertheless, as + you point out, often run down antelopes that no horse can run + down, is most extraordinary. I am equally struck by what you say + as to the men who have run down cheetahs on horseback. Judging + from what Sir Samuel Baker saw for instance, cheetahs must be + able to go at least two feet to a horse's one for half a mile or + so. I wonder if it is not possible that the men who succeeded in + running them down were able to get a clear chase of two or three + miles so as to wind them. If different observers had recorded + the two sets of facts you give as to the speed of the wild + hounds under different conditions, a great many people would + have jumped to the conclusion that one of the two observers, + whose stories seemed mutually contradictory, must have been + telling what was not so. + + "Let me thank you again for the real pleasure you have given me + by sending me these articles. Now do go on and write that book. + Buxton and I and a great many other men can write ordinary books + of trips in which we kill a few sheep or goat or bear or elk or + deer; but nobody can write the natural history of big game as + you can." + +Selous' intimacy with the President was of that charming character which +unfortunately we now only associate with early Victorian days. They +wrote real letters to one another of that heart-to-heart nature which +only two men absorbed in similar tastes, and actuated by a similar +intellectual outlook, can send as tributes of mind to mind. Such letters +are ever a joy to the recipient; but once Selous seems to have +over-expressed his concern, when the President was attacked and wounded +by a would-be assassin. The answer is both characteristic and amusing. + + "My dear Selous, I could not help being a little amused by your + statement that my 'magnificent behaviour, splendid pluck and + great constitutional strength have made a great impression.' + Come, come, old elephant-hunter and lion-hunter! Down at the + bottom of your heart you must have a better perspective of my + behaviour after being shot. Modern civilisation, indeed, I + suppose all civilization is rather soft; and I suppose the + average political orator, or indeed the average sedentary broker + or banker or business-man or professional man, especially if + elderly, is much overcome by being shot or meeting with some + other similar accident, and feels very sorry for himself and + thinks he has met with an unparalleled misfortune; but the + average soldier or sailor in a campaign or battle, even the + average miner or deep-sea fisherman or fireman or policeman, and + of course the average hunter of dangerous game, would treat both + my accident and my behaviour after the accident as entirely + matter of course. It was nothing like as nerve-shattering as + your experience with the elephant that nearly got you, or as + your experience with more than one lion and more than one + buffalo. The injury itself was not as serious as your injury the + time that old four-bore gun was loaded twice over by mistake; + and as other injuries you received in the hunting-field." + + + + +CHAPTER XII +1908-1913 + + +On March 20th, 1908, President Roosevelt wrote to Selous and announced +his intention of taking a long holiday in Africa as soon as his +Presidency of the United States came to an end, and asked Selous to help +him. So from this date until the following March, Selous busied himself +in making all the preparations and arrangements of a trip the success of +which was of the greatest possible delight to Roosevelt and his son +Kermit, and advantage to the American museums of Natural History, which +benefited by the gift of a magnificent series of the East African and +Nile Fauna.[58] Selous threw himself into the task with characteristic +energy, with the result that the President had the very best advice and +help. Roosevelt was at first adverse to taking a white man as +caravan-manager, but Selous overruled this and proved the wisdom of +employing such men as Cuninghame and Judd (for a short period), who are +by far the most experienced hunters in East Africa, for Roosevelt and +his son had then nothing to do but hunt and enjoy themselves, whilst all +the burden of camp-arrangements was taken off their shoulders. Writing +on November 9th, 1908, Roosevelt expresses his gratitude, and in his +letter gives some insight into his policy of the "employment of the +fit." + + "Perhaps you remember the walk we took down Rock Creek, climbing + along the sides of the Creek. On Saturday I took fifty officers + of the general staff and War College on that same walk, because + I thought the older ones might need a little waking up. I was + rather pleased to find that they all went pretty well, even when + we waded the Creek where it was up to our armpits, and climbed + the cliffs. My dear Selous, it does not seem to me that I would + have taken this trip (to Africa) without your advice and aid, + and I can never begin to thank you for all you have done." + +President Roosevelt was also delighted with the prospect that he would +have Selous' company in his forthcoming voyage to Africa. Writing +December 28th, 1908, he says:-- + + "Three cheers! I am simply overjoyed that you are going out. It + is just the last touch to make everything perfect. But you must + leave me one lion somewhere! I do not care whether it has a + black mane or yellow mane, or male or female, so long as it is a + lion; and I do not really expect to get one anyhow.[59] I count + upon seeing you on April 5th at Naples. It makes all the + difference in the world to me that you are going, and I simply + must get to MacMillan's during part of the time that you are + there. + + "I have written Sir Alfred Pease that I shall leave Mombasa just + as soon as I can after reaching there; go straight to Nairobi, + stay there as short a time as possible, and then go direct to + his ranch. I particularly wish to avoid going on any + hunting-trip immediately around Nairobi or in the neighbourhood + of the railroad, for that would be to invite reporters and + photographers to accompany me, and in short, it would mean just + what I am most anxious to avoid. + + "Do let me repeat how delighted I am that you are to be with me + on the steamer, and I do hope we will now and then meet during + the time you are in British East Africa. I should esteem it an + honour and a favour if you would accompany me for any part of my + trip that you are able, as my guest." + + +No doubt to regular African hunters it is far better and more enjoyable +that they should pursue their wanderings unaccompanied by a white guide, +but to any man, however experienced in other lands, success in Africa in +a "first trip" certainly depends much on the local knowledge of the +white hunter who accompanies the expedition, if expense is no object. A +man may know all about hunting elsewhere, yet would make the most +egregious mistakes in Africa, and perhaps never see the animals he most +wishes to possess if he went only accompanied by a black shikari, so +Selous made a point of insisting that Roosevelt should have the best +local guidance at his command. Thus he writes to Sir Alfred Pease, who +was then resident in East Africa:-- + + "_September 26th, 1908_. + + "MY DEAR SIR ALFRED, + + "Since I received your letter I have heard again from President + Roosevelt. He tells me that he has heard from Mr. Buxton,[60] + and that Mr. Buxton thinks that he ought not to engage a white + man to manage his caravan. He quotes me the following passage + from Mr. Buxton's letter: 'If you wish to taste the sweets of + the wilderness, leave the Cook tourist element behind, and trust + to the native, who will serve a good master faithfully, and whom + you can change if not up to your standard.' The President then + goes on to say that he is puzzled; but that his own judgment now + _'leans very strongly_' towards engaging a white man, and as I + know that several men who have recently travelled in East Africa + have also strongly advised him to do so, I feel sure that he + will decide to engage Judd or a man named Cuninghame, who has + also been strongly recommended to him. I must confess that I + fail to follow Mr. Buxton's argument. The objection to being a + Cook's tourist is, I always thought, because one does not like + to be one of a crowd with many of whom you may be entirely out + of sympathy, and how on earth the fact that he had a white man + to look after all the details of his caravan, instead of a + native headman, would give his trip the flavour of a Cook's + tour, or prevent him in any way from tasting the sweets of the + wilderness, I entirely fail to understand. Rather, I think, it + would enhance the sweetness and enjoyment of his trip by + relieving him of all the troublesome worries connected with the + management of a large caravan. First of all, I believe that both + Judd and Cuninghame would have a wider knowledge of the whole of + East Africa than any native headman. The President would say, + 'Now I want to go to the Gwas N'yiro river, where Neumann used + to hunt, or to the country to the north of Mount Elgon, or to + the country where Patterson saw all those rhinoceroses, giraffes + and other game last year.' His manager would then work out the + amount of provisions it would be necessary to take for such a + trip, the number of porters necessary, engage those porters, and + in fact make all the necessary arrangements to carry out the + President's wishes. He would then arrange the loads, attend to + the feeding of the porters, the pitching of camp every evening, + and give out stores to the cook, and generally take all the + petty details of the management of a caravan off the President's + hands. As regards hunting, the manager of the caravan would + never go out with the President unless he asked him to do so. + He, the President, would go out hunting with his Somali shikari, + a staunch Masai or other native to carry his second rifle, and + natives to carry the meat and trophies of any animal shot. Of + course, if when going after lions, elephants or buffaloes, he + would like to have his white manager with him, all well and + good, and it would be an advantage if such a man was an + experienced hunter and a steady, staunch fellow who could be + depended on in an emergency. Now, as I have said before, I feel + sure that the President will finally decide to engage either + Judd or Cuninghame, and the question is which is the better of + those two men. I know neither of them--for although I seem to + have met Cuninghame years ago, I do not remember him. I never + heard of Judd until Bulpett spoke to me about him, nor of + Cuninghame, until the President wrote and told me that Captain + and Mrs. Saunderson had strongly advised him to engage him. He + was also advised to engage Cuninghame by an American who was + lately in East Africa, and now I have just got a letter from + Cuninghame himself, a copy of which I enclose you to read. + Please return it to me as I have sent the original to the + President and asked him to get Mr. Akeley's opinion. As soon as + I received this letter from Cuninghame, I went to London and saw + Mr. Claude Tritton. He (Mr. Tritton) told me he knew both Judd + and Cuninghame well, and thought them both thoroughly competent + men. What do you think about it? Do you know Cuninghame, or can + you find out anything as to the relative value of these two + men--Judd and Cuninghame? MacMillan evidently knows both of + them, and he is coming home in a month or six weeks' time. I + have written all this to the President, and asked him to wait + until we find out more about the two men; but suggesting that + should he finally decide to engage either Judd or Cuninghame, + leaving it to us to decide which was the better man, we should + wait to hear MacMillan's opinion, but then write and engage one + or the other, and ask him to pick out himself the best Somali + shikaris, gun-carriers and special native headmen, whom he could + have ready by a given date (this is your suggestion, and I think + an excellent one, as probably both Judd and Cuninghame know some + good and reliable men and have had them with them on + hunting-trips). In the meantime I told the President that I + would answer Cuninghame's letter, in a strictly non-committal + way, but telling him that I would write again in a couple of + months' time, and that he _might_ be wanted to manage the + President's early trips. Let me know what you think of all this. + I am now convinced that the President will take either Judd or + Cuninghame with him. My arguments may have had some weight with + him, for I am strongly in favour of his doing so, but other + people have also given him the same advice. On the other hand, + he has heard Mr. Buxton's arguments on the other side, and he + may decide to be guided by them. But Mr. Buxton's views are, I + think, not generally held by men who have travelled extensively + in Africa, and I think the President will finally decide to + engage either Judd or Cuninghame, and if so we must try and + ensure his getting the best man. I trust that the weather is now + somewhat better in Scotland, and that you have had some good + sport. + + "Believe me, + "Yours very truly, + "F. C. Selous. + + "P.S.--As Cuninghame is now starting on a trip which will last + three or four months, he will be back at Nairobi early next + month, and if engaged by the President, would then have plenty + of time to look out for Somalis, and other picked natives, + before the President's arrival in Africa." + +Selous himself went on the hunt in East Africa with his friend, W. N. +MacMillan, who was resident in East Africa. He left England on April +1st, 1909. Just before starting, he gives his ideas on the prospects of +hunting in the rainy season. + + "MY DEAR JOHNNY, + + "Just a line to bid you good-bye before I start for East Africa. + I would have written to you long ago, but I have been + continually looking forward to coming over to see you before I + left England; but the bad weather has always prevented me from + doing so. I am going out to East Africa at the very worst time + of year, as heavy rains have still to come in May and June. The + consequence will be that when I get there the whole country will + be smothered in long grass, just as it was when I was in East + Africa last, game will be very scattered, and there will be a + very small chance of getting a lion. I would never have + entertained the idea of going at this season but for the fact + that I am going out as the guest of Mr. MacMillan (who has a + large ranch near Nairobi), and my expenses will be very small. + It just came to this, that I had to go now--as President + Roosevelt wanted me to meet him at Naples and travel with him to + Nairobi--or not at all; but I don't look forward to much + success, and the risk of getting fever is always very much + greater when hunting in the rainy season, than in dry weather. + Very heavy rains have been falling this season all over North + and South Rhodesia, and in British Central Africa, as well as in + East Africa. Every trip I have made during the last few years + has been marred by rain. My last trip to East Africa was very + much spoilt by rain and long grass, then the trip to Sardinia, + as well as the last ones to Yukon and Newfoundland, were much + spoilt by rain. I hope that you have now quite recovered from + the effects of the pleurisy you caught last year in British + Columbia. Are you going anywhere this year I wonder?" + +[Illustration: MT. KENIA FROM THE SOUTH.] + +Selous' first trip with MacMillan was successful in his getting several +new species for his collection, but what he most wanted was a good +black-maned lion. He was, however, unsuccessful in this. Mr. Williams, a +member of his party, found three lions one day and killed two of them +somewhat easily. The third charged and seized the unfortunate hunter by +the leg, severely biting him. His life, however, was saved by the +bravery of his Swahili gun-bearer, who gave the lion a fatal shot as it +stood over his master. Mr. Williams was carried to hospital in Nairobi, +where he lay between life and death for some time, and then completely +recovered. + +At the beginning of September, 1910, the Second International Congress +of Field Sports was held at Vienna in connection with the Exhibition. +The First Congress met at Paris in 1907, when the British delegate was +Lord Montagu of Beaulieu, while, at Vienna, Selous was appointed by Sir +Edward Grey, then Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, as the +official delegate from this country. The Congress was divided into three +separate sections, dealing respectively with the Economic Importance, +the Science and Practice, and the Legislation of Field Sports. The +meetings of these three sections were held simultaneously, and the +British delegate confined his attention to Section III (Legislation). In +this section he was instrumental, with the cordial support of his French +colleague, Comte Justinien Clary, President of the St. Hubert Club of +France, in securing the passing of an important resolution in favour of +the International Protection of Migrating Birds (especially the quail +and woodcock). + +At the Exhibition Great Britain was represented by a very fair +collection of Big Game heads. Selous sending his best Koodoo, Wart Hog, +White Rhinoceros, and Alaskan Moose, all exceptional specimens. + +Selous was delighted with all he saw of the Great Hunting Exhibition, by +far the finest of its kind ever offered to the public. I had hoped to +meet him there, as I was going to hunt in Galicia, but found he had left +for home. After describing the exhibition he wrote to me:-- + + "Warburton Pike wishes me to tell you that he will show you round + the Exhibition. The Hungarian, Austrian and old German stags' + heads are simply wonderful, but there are so many that it is + bewildering. Weidmann's Heil." + +Warburton Pike, here mentioned, was a splendid specimen of an +Englishman, who was to British Columbia and Arctic Canada what Selous +himself was to Africa. In his person existed a type of pioneer as modest +as courageous. His travels and privations in the Arctic barren grounds +made him known to most people in Canada, whilst his unselfish devotion +and unfailing kindness to his fellow colonists endeared him to thousands +of "voyageurs" who battled with the forces of Nature in the far +North-West. He had a little mine amongst the Jack pines above Dease Lake +where he lived, in the four working months, chiefly on tea, game and +"flapjacks." Here he wrested from a refractory soil about as much gold +as would have satisfied a Chinaman. Nevertheless, he toiled on year +after year, because he had faith and the grit that bites deep even when +common sense says, "Is it good enough?" + +Every spring saw "Pikey" full of hope, dragging his canoe with two +Indians up the rain-drenched valley of the Stikine for 200 miles, and +then on with pack-horses to his mine, another 100 miles, and every fall +he raced downward to the sea, disappointed, but undefeated. When people +met him in Vancouver, they would say, "How goes it, Pikey?" Then his +kind face would light up. "Splendid," he would reply, though he had +hardly enough money to buy bread and butter. + +Yet no one ever appealed to Warburton Pike in vain, for on the rare +occasions when he had a little money he invariably gave it away to his +less fortunate friends. Every wastrel and miner on the Pacific slope +knew "Pikey" and asked his advice and help, which was ever forthcoming, +and in the eyes of the colonists he was the man who embodied the type of +all that was best. + +From Vancouver to the Yukon and from St. Michaels to the Mackenzie, the +name of Warburton Pike was one to conjure with, and though comparatively +unknown in England, his noble spirit will never be forgotten in the +homes of all those who knew and loved him. Like all good men, he came to +England in 1914, to play his part in the Great War, and I think it broke +his heart when he found no one would employ him. He suffered a nervous +breakdown, and in a fit of depression he took his own life in the summer +of 1916. He published a few books, among which the best-known is +"Through the Sub-Arctic Forest." + +Selous had long cherished a desire to add to his great collection of +African trophies a specimen of the Giant Eland of the Lower Sudan. An +expedition for this purpose, however, without outside aid would have +been to him too expensive a trip, so he made certain arrangements with +Lord Rothschild and the British Museum which helped to alleviate the +financial strain. After this had been successfully effected, he left on +January 19th, 1911. Thus he writes of his plans on the eve of +departure:-- + + "MY DEAR JOHNNY, + + "Just a line in frightful haste to thank you for your kind + letter and all your good wishes. If I am successful in finding + the Elands, I fear I shall not be able to get a head for my own + collection, as if I get permission to shoot more than those I + want for the N.H. Museum, I must get a specimen for Rothschild, + who will give me L70 for it, and I don't think they will let me + get one for Rothschild and another for myself in addition to + those I want for the Museum. I have, however, first to find the + Elands and then shoot and preserve them, and to do the latter + all by myself, with only raw savages to help me will be a hard + job in the climate of the Lado, where I am going to look for my + game. I shall probably be more sure of finding the Elands to the + south of Wau, in the Bahr-el-Ghazal Province, but the journey + there would be much more expensive, and my means are very + limited. I hope to get a free passage from Khartoum to Lado in + the Government steamer. I have been very much interested in + Buxton's new Koodoo-like antelope, but what nonsense it is to + call it a 'Mountain Inyala.' It does not resemble an Inyala in + any way. It is of course quite a distinct species. I don't know + if I shall be able to get anything for myself at all this trip. + The white-eared Kob and Mrs. Gray's Kob are only found near Lake + No, near the junction of the Bahr-el-Ghazal with the Nile, but + going by steamer to and back from Lado, the steamer does not + stop there, only steams through their district, and there is + only one steamer a month. I shall look forward very much to + seeing your new book on American big game on my return from the + Sudan. With your own illustrations it cannot fail to be a very + attractive and interesting work. The climate of the Lado they + tell me is bad, unhealthy, intensely hot and enervating, but I + hope I keep pretty well, and come back all right." + +When he reached Cairo, he had an interview with Sir F. Wingate, to whom +he had letters of introduction from Sir E. Grey. He then went on to +Khartoum, where he met Mr. Butler, who was then in charge of big game +matters connected with the Lower Sudan. Mr. Butler advised him to go to +Mongalla, as the best and most accessible place at which to find the +Giant Eland, since Wau had been much hunted, but Selous thought that the +Tembera country would be the best, because few travellers had ever been +there, and it could only be reached by a toilsome journey from the river +with pack-donkeys. Accordingly he took the steamer going south. At Rejaf +the vessel stopped to take in wood, and there met another steamer whose +occupants informed him of the death of poor Phil Oberlander, who had +just been killed by a buffalo near the village of Sheikh Lowala. It +appears that this unfortunate fellow, who had just killed a fine Giant +Eland at Mongalla, and was on his way home up the river, had stopped at +a village near Mongalla for a day or two, to try to get a buffalo, of +which there were some herds in the neighbourhood. He had landed and very +soon found a good herd. His shots wounded a big bull, which left the +herd and retreated into the thick bush. Oberlander at once followed, but +unfortunately forgot to reload his heavy rifle. The usual thing +happened, and the wounded bull charged suddenly from one flank, and +instead of reports two clicks ensued. The bull rushed at Oberlander, +knocked him to the ground and literally beat his body to a pulp. Later +in the day the bull was found lying dead. Its head was recovered by Mr. +Butler, who sent it to the Vienna Museum, for which Oberlander had +collected industriously for several years. + +I first met Oberlander on the steamer going to Alaska, in September, +1908. He then called himself Count Oberlander, a title which I believe +he had no claim to. He was a strange creature, full of assurance, and +with a very complete contempt for British and American game-laws, and +apparently oblivious of the fact that without their institution he would +not have been able to obtain the specimens he so earnestly desired to +capture. His one idea seemed to be to get specimens anyhow, and that a +letter from the authorities of the Vienna Museum and an unlimited +expenditure of cash would overcome all difficulties. In this he was +partly right and partly wrong, for when he shot numerous female sheep +and kids in the mountains of Cassiar he reckoned without the long arm of +the law and the vigilance of the hawk-eyed Bryan Williams, our game +warden in Vancouver, who promptly had him arrested and heavily fined. + +As an example of his impudence he told us the following story, which I +afterwards found was true in all details. One day in August, 1908, he +went to the National Park at Yellowstone, and coolly informed two of the +game wardens that he had come there to shoot a buffalo. At first the +latter regarded the matter as a joke, but, finding he was in earnest, +they told him that if he did not clear out they would confiscate his +guns and arrest him. Unabashed, Oberlander said: + +"Well, you need not get huffy. I will give you L250 for that old bull," +pointing to an old patriarch within a wooden enclosure. The shaft, +however, went home, for the game wardens at once reported the matter to +their chief. + +Now, L250 was a very nice sum, and it was quite within the realms of +possibility that the old bull would die a natural death within the next +year or two and that the dead carcase might be worth perhaps L50. Facts, +therefore, were facts, which seemed to appeal to the business instincts +of the park authorities, so next day Oberlander was informed that he +might shoot the buffalo as soon as his cheque was forthcoming. +Oberlander at once handed over the money and killed the bull, shooting +him through the bars of the cage, and he showed us an excellent +photograph of this doughty deed with no little satisfaction. + +Oberlander afterwards hunted in Cassiar, Mexico, East Africa, and the +Arctic regions, before going on the expedition up the Nile that was to +prove fatal to him. In him the Vienna Museum lost a good friend, but he +could scarcely be considered a good type of sportsman. + +We need not follow Selous' wanderings in the parched uninteresting +forest country about Tembera, where for nine weeks, in company with a +native chief named Yei, he hunted the small herd of Giant Elands +somewhat unsuccessfully. At last he killed a good female, but had no +luck in securing a big male. On March 7th he went north to Rumbek, and +on March 28th he and Captain Tweedie went north to a small river and +shot nine Kobs. On April 4th he again left Rumbek and returned south for +another hunt for the Elands, which was again unsuccessful. On April 29th +he arrived at the Nile and turned homewards.[61] + +"I cannot pretend," writes Selous, "I enjoyed my excursion in the +Bahr-el-Ghazal Province. In the first place, I was unsuccessful in the +main object of my journey. Then the deadly monotony of the landscape, +the extraordinary scarcity of game, and the excessive heat of the +climate, all combined to make my trip very wearisome and uninteresting." +He came away, however, with a very deep admiration for the gallant band +of young Britons who were doing the work of the Empire in the wilds of +Africa. + +At the end of this trying hunt he was far from well, and was unable to +ride, so he had to tramp the whole way to the Nile on foot. Arrived at +Rumbek the medical officer there discovered the cause of his ill-health, +so, as soon as he arrived in England he saw Mr. Freyer, who recommended +an operation. "I got over the operation," he writes to Abel Chapman, +"wonderfully well, and simply healed up like a dog. In fact, I was the +record case for healing up in ten years amongst Freyer's patients." I +went to see him in a nursing home in London, and heard all about his +Lado trip, which was rather a sore subject with him, but, with his usual +determination, he was only full of ideas to go back again and make a +success the next time. In August we both went again to Swythamley, as +the guests of young Sir Philip Brocklehurst, and had a very pleasant +time amongst the grouse on the Derbyshire hills. Afterwards Selous +stayed for a time in the Isle of Wight, with his wife and boys, and +later in the autumn he travelled to Turin Exhibition of hunting and +shooting, as one of the British jurors. + +Later in 1911 Selous again left for British East Africa, to go on +another hunt to the Gwas N'yiro river, with his friend MacMillan. Before +leaving he wrote to President Roosevelt, intimating that he feared he +was now too old for the hard work entailed by African hunting, which +called forth the following comfortable advice (Sept. 11th, 1911). + + "MacMillan lunches here Thursday. I am very glad you are going + out with him to Africa. He is a trump! I am rather amused at + your saying that you will not take any risks with lion now, and + that you do not think your eyes are very good. I would not trust + you!--seriously. I always wished to speak to you about the time + that you followed the lioness which crouched in a bush, and then + so nearly got Judd, who was riding after you. I think you were + taking more of a chance on that occasion than you ought to have + taken. It is not as if you had never killed a lion, and were + willing to take any chance to get your first specimen. That I + could quite understand. But you have killed a great many, and + you ought not to do as poor George Grey did last year, and get + caught through acting with needless recklessness.[62] I know you + will not pay any heed to this advice, and, doubtless, you regard + me as over-cautious with wild beasts, but, my dear fellow, at + your age and with your past, and with your chance of doing good + work in the present and future, I honestly do not think you + ought to take these risks unless there is some point in doing + so. + + "You say you are too old for such a trip as that with MacMillan. + Nonsense! It is precisely the kind of trip which you ought to + take. Why, I, who am far less hardy and fit, would like nothing + better than to be along with you and MacMillan on that trip. But + you ought not to take such a trip as that you took on the + Bahr-el-Ghazal. It would have meant nothing to you thirty years + ago; it would mean nothing to Kermit now; but you are nearly + sixty years old, and though I suppose there is no other man of + sixty who is physically as fit as you, still it is idle to + suppose that you can now do what you did when you were in the + twenties. Of course I never was physically fit in the sense that + you were, but still I was a man of fair hardihood, and able to + hold my own reasonably well in my younger days; but when I went + to Africa I realized perfectly well, although I was only fifty, + that I was no longer fit to do the things I had done, and I + deliberately set myself to the work of supplying the place of + the prowess I had lost by making use of all that the years had + brought in the way of gain to offset it. That is, I exercised + what I think I can truthfully say was much intelligence and + foresight in planning the trip. I made it for a great scientific + National museum (which was itself backed by private capital), + and made it at the time when the fact that I had been President + gave me such prestige that the things were done for me which + ought to have been done, but were not done, for you last + spring. Then I took along Kermit, who, in the case of the bongo + and koodoo and Northern Sable, was able to supply the qualities + that I once had had and now lacked. In consequence, while + everything was done to make my trip successful and comparatively + easy, I am yet entitled to claim the modest credit that is + implied in saying that I took advantage of the opportunities + thus generously given me, and that I planned the trip carefully, + and used the resources that my past had given me, in the way of + notoriety or reputation, to add somewhat to my sum of + achievement. On your trip you also had genuine bad luck, and the + trip was not long enough, and the opportunities were not + sufficiently numerous, to allow the good and bad luck to even + up, as they will on such a long trip as mine. For instance, it + was simply luck in my case that got me some of my game; but then + it was simply luck, also, that I did not get some other things; + and so it about evened up. + + "My own physical limitations at the moment come chiefly from a + perfectly commonplace but exasperating ailment--rheumatism. It + not only cripples me a good deal, so that I am unable to climb + on or off a horse with any speed, but it also prevents my + keeping in condition. I cannot take any long walks, and + therefore cannot keep in shape; but I am sufficiently fortunate + to have a great many interests, and I am afraid, sufficiently + lazy also thoroughly to enjoy being at home; and I shall be + entirely happy if I never leave Sagamore again for any length of + time. I have work which is congenial and honourable, although + not of any special importance, and if I can keep it for the next + seven or eight years, my youngest son will have graduated from + college, so that all the children will be swimming for + themselves, and then I am content not to try to earn any more + money. + + "Fond though I am of hunting and of the wilderness and of + natural history, it has not been to me quite the passion that it + has been to you, and though I would give a great deal to repeat + in some way or some fashion, say in Central Asia or in Farther + India, or in another part of Africa, the trip I made last year, + I know perfectly well that I cannot do it; and I do not + particularly care for smaller trips. If it were not for our + infernal newspaper-men, I should go off for a week or two this + fall bear-hunting in the Louisiana cane-brakes; but I know I + should be pestered out of my life by the newspaper-men, who + would really destroy all my pleasure in what I was doing. I have + found that I have to get really far off in the wilderness in + order to get rid of them, even now, when I am no longer a person + of public prominence. I never cared for the fishing-rod or the + shot-gun, and I cannot afford to keep hunters. But you, my dear + fellow, are still hardy, and you can still do much. I have never + understood why your 'African Nature Notes' did not have a + greater financial success. It is a book which will last + permanently, and will, I am sure, have an ever-increasing meed + of appreciation. I re-read it all last winter, and Sheldon, as I + think I told you, mentioned to me the other day that he regarded + it as the best book of the kind that had ever been written. + + "Kermit is, at the moment, in New Brunswick getting moose, + caribou, and beaver for the National Museum. I think I told you + that he got four sheep, three of them for the Museum, on his + recent trip into the Mexican desert. He made it just as you have + made so many of your trips, that is, he got two Mexicans and two + small pack-mules, and travelled without a tent, and with one + spare pair of shoes and one spare pair of socks as his sole + luggage. Once they nearly got into an ugly scrape through + failure to find a water-hole, for it is a dangerous country. + Kermit found that he could outlast in walking and in enduring + thirst, not only the Mexicans but the American prospectors whom + he once or twice met." + +The reference in his letter to the lioness "which crouched in a bush, +and then so nearly got Judd," refers to an incident that happened in the +Gwas N'yiro bush in Selous' former hunt with MacMillan (1909), and this +little adventure was related to me by William Judd himself. It appears +that Selous and Judd were out together one day and disturbed two +lionesses, which disappeared in thick forest. Selous at once galloped +after them and outdistanced Judd, who came somewhat slowly cantering +behind, as he did not wish to interfere with Selous. All at once, from +the side of the path, Judd saw a great yellow body come high in the air +from the side of the game-trail. He had no time even to raise his rifle +from the position across the saddle-pommel, but just cocked it up across +and pulled the trigger. One of the lionesses, for such it was, had +apparently crouched and allowed Selous to pass, and had then hurled +herself upon the second hunter. By a fine piece of judgment, or a happy +fluke, Judd's bullet went through the lioness's eye and landed her dead +at his feet. His horse swerved. He fell off, and found himself standing +beside the dead body of his adversary. Selous then returned, and was +astonished to find Judd standing over the dead animal in the path he had +so lately passed. I saw the skin of this lioness in Judd's house, near +Nairobi, in 1913, and noticed the little bullet hole over the eye. If +the missile had gone an inch higher it is doubtful if the hunter would +have escaped with his life, or at any rate without a severe mauling. + +After the trip with MacMillan, 1911-1912, Selous writes (June 23rd, +1913):-- + + "My dear Johnny,--I wonder where you are and what you are doing. + Some one told me the other day that you were going to Africa on + a shooting-trip this year. I had quite an interesting time with + MacMillan, and got a few nice things to add to my collection. I + got three nice Lesser Koodoos on the lower Gwas N'yiro river as + well as Gerenuks, good Beisa, and Impala--though nothing + exceptional--very good specimens of the small races of Grant's + Gazelle--_notata_ and _Brighti_--Grevy's zebra, the reticulated + giraffe, a good bushbuck, a striped hyena, two buffalo bulls, + and a lot of Dik-diks (of two distinct species and, I think, + possibly three). I don't know whether you have seen two letters + of mine in the 'Field'[63] for June 8th and 15th, but if you + have, you will have read my account of a rather interesting + experience I had with a lion. This was the only lion I actually + fired at, though I saw four lionesses one day, and tracked a + lion and lioness on another occasion for a long distance and got + close to them, but, owing to the thickness of the bush, could + not see them. That was the trouble on the lower Gwas N'yiro + river. The bush was so frightfully thick along the river, and + outside, too, very often, that it required great luck to get a + lion in the daytime, and they would not come to baits at night. + The bush was simply awful for buffaloes. Let me know what you + are doing and I will try and come over to see you one of these + days." + +Selous seems to have been unusually unlucky on the few occasions he met +with lions in the Gwas N'yiro bush. On March 2nd, 1912, he suddenly came +face to face with a big lion, but as soon as it saw him, it dived into +the forest and was immediately lost to view. On another occasion he +wounded a pallah buck, which a lion then killed, and death was so recent +that Selous sat over "the kill" and waited. The lion came and stood +within twenty-five yards of the hunter, who fired two shots at it, and +although assured that it was severely wounded he never recovered the +body.[64] + +The most exciting incident, however, of this trip was the killing of +what he calls "My Last Buffalo." Near the river he found the tracks of +two old buffalo bulls, which he followed industriously for six miles. At +last he obtained a snap shot and hit one of the bulls badly through the +lungs. After following the wounded animal a short distance, he suddenly +heard the unmistakable grunts which always precede a charge. "The next +instant the buffalo was on us, coming over the edge of the gully with +nose outstretched, half a ton of bone and muscle driven at tremendous +speed by the very excusable rage and fury of a brave and determined +animal.... When I fired, the muzzle of my rifle must have been within +three yards of the buffalo." The buffalo fell to the shot, the vertebrae +of the neck being struck, and as he fell struck Elani the Somali. + + "He only received this one terrific blow, though he was pushed + to the bottom of the gully--only a few yards--in front of the + buffalo's knees and right under its nose, but my bullet had for + a moment partially paralysed it. I got another cartridge into + the chamber of my rifle as quickly as possible, and, turning to + the buffalo, somehow got a second bullet into its hind-quarters, + which brought it down altogether. When I was again ready to + fire, the buffalo was on its knees, with its hind-legs doubled + in under it, in the bed of the gully a few yards below me, and + Elani was under its great neck between its nose and its chest, + with one arm outstretched and his right hand on the buffalo's + shoulder, so that I had to shoot carefully for fear of hitting + it. + + "Elani then pushed himself with his feet free of the buffalo, + whilst I stood where I was, ready to put in another shot if + necessary, and it was, for the brave and determined bull + partially recovered from the shocks its nervous system had + received, though the mists of death were already in its eyes." + Another bullet finished this gallant old bull. Elani the Somali + was little the worse for his severe handling. + +Selous spent the autumn of 1912 quietly at home or shooting with +friends. + + Writing to Chapman, September 26th, 1912, he says: "Don't worry + about our visit to Hexham the other day. We got through the time + quite easily. I can always pass an hour or two reading, very + comfortably, but what I dislike more than anything else in + English life is the crowds of people everywhere.... The crowds + spoil all the pleasure of going to a cricket- or football-match + or a theatre. It is always such a trouble getting away. I am + already longing to be in Africa again. If only Mrs. Selous would + be happy there, I would rather live in East Africa than in this + country." + +His mother[65] was still alive at Longford House, Gloucester, but +getting old and feeble. He visited her in December, 1912. On December +7th, 1912, he was in Devonshire, shooting pheasants at MacMillan's +place. "We got two fine days' shooting," he writes to Chapman, "but at +the best, pheasant shooting is a very inferior sport to the pursuit of +the grouse and the blackcock on the wild free moors of Northumberland. +May I live to renew my acquaintance with them next year." + +Never did the spring come round but it always filled Selous with new +delight, and then he used to write me long letters of the arrival of the +birds and the advent of the early flowers. His joy was great when the +Wrynecks took to his nesting-boxes in the garden, the Long-eared Owls +nested in the woods close by, or the rare Dartford Warbler was seen +again in its old haunts. Thus, on April 15th, he says:-- + + "I was very disappointed not to see you yesterday, as I was + looking forward to a good crack with you. I have not yet heard + the cuckoo, but the cuckoo's mate has been here in the garden + since April 2nd. There are several pairs of snipe on Whitmoor + Common (just below Worplesdon village) this year. They are now + in full 'bleat.' There are also a number of Redshanks, the first + I have ever seen here." + +We used often to go out and look for nests in the commons, hedgerows, +and woods at Worplesdon, and it was now a sorrow to him that he could no +longer, owing to a slight deafness, recognize the notes of birds at a +distance. These nests, when found, he never touched, as he had already +got specimens of the eggs of all common birds, but the joy of hunting +was always present, and he never tired of watching the habits of birds, +even though he knew them well. + +In the early part of 1913, Selous made a little trip to Jersey and +Normandy, to visit the home of his ancestors, in whose history he always +showed a lively interest. He wrote a long account of this to President +Roosevelt, who replied as follows (April 2nd, 1913):-- + + "I was greatly interested in your account of your visit to the + home of your people in the Channel Islands, and then to + Normandy. Of course, the Channel Islands are the last little + fragment of the old Duchy of Normandy. I was always pleased by + the way in which their people, when they drink the health of the + King, toast him as 'The Duke.' It is the one fragment of the + gigantic British Empire which owes fealty to the Royal House of + England primarily as the representative of the still older ducal + line of Normandy. Moreover, the people of the Channel Islands + have always seemed to me, like the French Huguenots, to combine + the virile virtues of the northern races with that quality of + fineness and distinction which are far more apt to be found in + France--at least in old France--than among our northern Teutonic + peoples. + + "Indeed, those cathedrals represent the greatest architecture + this world ever saw, with the sole exception of Greece at its + best. All that you say about the Normans is true. What they + accomplished in government, in war, in conquest, in + architecture, was wonderful beyond description. No adequate + explanation of the Norman achievements during the eleventh and + twelfth centuries has ever been or ever can be made. As you say, + it was their conquest of England and the Scotch lowlands that + gave to the English their great push forward; and they gave this + push in many different lands. The handful of Norman adventurers + who went to Italy fifty years before the conquest of England + speedily conquered South Italy and Sicily and part of Greece, + and ruled over Saracen, Italian and Byzantine alike. The handful + of Norman adventurers who conquered Ireland, thereby for the + first time brought that country into the current of European + affairs. It was the Normans to whom we owe the great 'Song of + Roland.' They formed principalities and dukedoms in the Holy + Land and the Balkan Peninsula. They set their stamp on the whole + contemporary culture of Western Europe, just as their kinsfolk, + who, as heathens, conquered heathen Russia, were the first to + organize the Slav communities of Eastern Europe. In a way, the + action of the Normans in the eleventh and twelfth centuries (for + by the thirteenth century their importance had vanished) + represented the continuation, culmination, and vanishing of the + tremendous Norse or Scandinavian movement which began about the + year 800, and ended in the latter part of the eleventh century, + when its Norman offshoot was at the zenith of its power and + influence. There are many things about these people and their + movements which are hard to explain. Wherever the Norsemen went, + they became completely merged with the people they conquered, + and although they formed a ruling caste they lost all trace of + their own language and traditions. The Norse invaders became + Sicilians in Sicily, Russians in Russia, Frenchmen in Normandy, + Irishmen in Ireland, English- and Scotchmen in Great Britain. + They furnished kings to England, Scotland and Sicily, and rulers + to a dozen other countries, but they always assimilated + themselves to the conquered people, and their blood must always + have been only a thin strain in the community as a whole. When + the Normans came over to conquer England, I believe that they + represented the fusion, not only of Scandinavians and Franks, + but of the old Gallo-Romans, whose language they took. A great + many of the adventurers were base-born. King William himself was + the bastard son of a tanner's daughter. Cooks and varlets, if + vigorous enough, founded noble families. Quantities of Bretons + and Flemings accompanied the Normans to England. Their language + was purely French, and their culture was the culture of Latin + Europe. They had lost every trace of the Norse language, and + every remembrance of Norse literature and history. In William's + army there seems to be no question that any man of fighting + ability came to the front without any regard to his ancestry, + just as was true of the Vikings from whom the Normans were + descended; yet these people were certainly not only masters of + war and government, but were more cultured, more imaginative, + more civilized and also more enterprising and energetic, not + only than the English but than any of the other peoples among + whom they settled. In England two centuries and a half later, + their tongue had practically been lost; they had been completely + absorbed, and were typical Englishmen, and their blood must have + been but a thin thread in the veins of the conquerors of Cressy + and Agincourt. Yet this thin thread made of the English + something totally different from what they had been before, and + from what their kinsmen, the low Dutch of the Continent, + continued to be. It is all absorbingly interesting." + +In the spring of 1913 Selous decided to take a hunt in Iceland to +collect the eggs of the various northern species of birds, and in this I +was fortunately able to be of some assistance to him, as I had ridden +nearly 1000 miles there in 1899, to study the bird-life of the island. +Wherefore I was able to give him accurate information of the various +nesting-localities, and where each species was to be found in the summer +months. Of only one bird, the Grey Phalarope, I could tell him nothing, +but he and his friend, Heatley Noble, were so industrious that they +found it breeding on the south coast of the island and secured eggs. + +[Illustration: BULL MOOSE ABOUT TO LIE DOWN.] + +Of this trip, Heatley Noble, an intimate and well-loved friend of +Selous, kindly sends me the following notes:-- + + "Well do I remember our first meeting, which was destined to + prove the beginning of a close friendship of more than twenty + years--I was working on the lawn when I saw a picturesque figure + dressed in shooting-clothes and the ever-present 'sombrero' + walking towards me. Off came the hat and 'Good morning, sir, my + name is Selous. I am just beginning to arrange my collection of + eggs and was advised at the Natural History Museum to call on + you, as they say your method of keeping a collection was good.' + + "How odd it seemed to me that this hero of a thousand + hairbreadth escapes should start egg-collecting once more at his + time of life (he was then about forty-five). I was soon to learn + that the energy he has always thrown into his hunting-trips was + to be given equally to this new pursuit--it was not really new, + as he had collected as a boy at Rugby, and in Germany, but years + spent away from home had seriously damaged the spoils of early + days. I showed him my collection, and on hearing that he wanted + to start with even the commonest species, we went off and + collected what nests I knew. How interested I was to see the + care with which this man, who could handle four-bore rifles as + tooth-picks, yet retained the delicacy of touch which enabled + him to wrap in cotton-wool such small eggs as those of Blue Tits + and Chiffchaffs! He told me he was off to Asia Minor for a few + days, and then on to the plains of Hungary. This programme would + have been sufficient for most men, but there were some days to + spare, the season was short, so I recommended him to go to the + Isles of Scilly; the owner being an old friend, I was sure I + could get him leave. He went, and subsequently wrote me a long + letter mentioning all the different species he had found, which + fairly made my mouth water! + + "Unlike some collectors, Fred Selous, if he knew where a good + thing was to be found, made it his delight to share that + knowledge. Perhaps to the detriment of the species, but greatly + to the joy of his friends. Jealousy was unknown to him, his + pleasure was always to help others, regardless of trouble; had + he been to any part of the world where you had not, he would + make it his business to give you the minutest details so that + you could go there almost blindfold! I know this from personal + experience, as it was thanks to him I went birds'-nesting into + Andalusia and Hungary, besides many little trips in these Isles. + If he had been lucky with some rare species in a foreign + country, he would press his duplicates on anyone interested, and + more than this, it was difficult to prevent him handing out eggs + he really could not spare. His own large collection was purely + personal. I believe there were only some Bearded Vultures' eggs + in it that he did not take with his own hands. These came from + Sardinia, where he had been after Mouflon--he had seen the + birds, but was too soon for eggs. If I found a nest on this + property which he wanted, he would never let me take the eggs + and send them to him, he would bicycle over to lunch + (twenty-three miles each way) and take them with his own hands! + + "I had long wished to visit Iceland on a nesting-trip, and in + the early spring of 1913, wrote asking Selous if he would come. + To my great joy I found that he had already arranged to go + there, and it was soon fixed up that we should go together. What + a glorious time we had, and how much I owe to his companionship, + invariable good temper and knowledge of travel! The ship we went + out in was a smelly beastly thing, the weather cold, sea rough + and food vile. The latter bothered Fred not at all, he often + said he could live on any food that would support a human being, + and from subsequent experience I believe he was right. He liked + some things better than others, but anything would do. I only + saw him beaten once; we had had an eight-hour ride in vile + weather, at last we arrived at the farm where we were to spend + the night. Fred loved meat, and our host produced a plate of + stuff that might have been thin slices of mutton. Fred attacked + it, and I watched developments! In place of the Aldermanic smile + I expected, the face contracted, the mouth opened, a sharp word + escaped, and later on the first course of his dinner turned out + to be pickled Guillemot of the previous season! But to return to + our ship. Fred didn't smoke, the rest of the company did to a + man, rank Danish cigars, which made even a good sailor wish he + had never left home. We were driven into the dining saloon, the + only place where there was some peace, though the smell of + ponies and cod took the place of vile cigars. Here Fred used to + spend his day reading, his favourite book being 'Tess of the + D'Urbervilles.' One day he complained bitterly of the light, and + for the first time I noticed that this wonderful man was reading + small print without glasses--aged, I think, sixty-three, and as + long-sighted as anyone I ever met. All things come to an end in + time, and after what seemed a month, and was really three days, + we arrived at Reykjavik, starting the following day on our trip. + The first trek was a short one, only twenty miles, but quite + long enough for me, as next day I could hardly climb on the + pony, whereas Selous jumped on like a boy, and during the whole + of our journey, above 1000 miles on pony back, never once felt + stiffness. We did well from an ornithological point of view, + finding some forty-six different kinds of nests, and bringing + home over 1000 eggs, _not one_ of which was broken, thanks + mostly to the careful packing of our friend. Selous had the + greatest objection to getting his feet wet unnecessarily, and + when crossing those rapid rough rivers would take his feet out + of the stirrups and somehow curl them up behind him, it was a + wonderful performance, and how he kept his balance with the pony + stumbling and regaining his feet as only an Icelander can, + fairly beat me. Once, when crossing an extra bad place, full of + boulders and in a flooded condition, his pony got on the top of + a flat rock under water; when he went to crawl down on the other + side, there was the inevitable hole from back-wash--down went the + pony, the jerk pulling Fred over on to his ears--I thought he + must have fallen into the boiling cauldron--No; a short + scramble, the pony righted himself and there was Fred as + peaceful as ever, didn't even look round! When we were safe on + the far side, I said to him, 'If you had gone off then, you + would not have stopped till you got to the sea.' His reply was, + 'Yes, but I didn't.' + + "I was very anxious to get on to the Island of Grimsey, one of + the European breeding places of the Little Auk. It is situated + some sixty-five miles from Akureyri, and I was told motor + fishing-boats went there sometimes. I told our guide to + telephone on and find out if such a boat could be hired, the + reply came back that a small one would be available. The terms + were settled, and the boat was to be ready the following + evening, to start by 9 p.m. About 8 o'clock, we went to the quay + to inspect our ship, when to my horror I was shown a + single-cylinder thing not as large as a moderate Thames + pleasure-launch, a free-board about 10 inches, no cabin, no + deck. I'm bound to confess my heart failed me, it didn't seem + quite good enough to trust ourselves to a sixty-five mile trip + in a little tub with two youths (one of whom had a withered + hand) and a very doubtful looking compass! Not so Fred, he never + raised the least objection to a North Sea trip in a ship + dependent on a single plug, which might become sooty any moment! + In due time we started, and after watching the midnight sun, my + shipmate remarked, 'I think I shall turn in.' 'Turn in where?' + 'Oh, the cockpit will do.' It was full of rusty old chains, he + could just get into it and lie curled up in a sort of knot on + the rug, and here he passed a dreamless night, never moving + until I called him as the boat touched land about 8.30 a.m. On + landing, the first thing was to find out where the Little Auk + might breed. The Parson told us he knew a man skilled in such + matters. With a total population of 72 souls, 13 of which were + belonging to the Parson, it ought not to be difficult to find + the tastes of any unit of the congregation (especially after + eighteen years' residence). In a short time a fisherman arrived + with a coil of rope and a crowbar; the latter he drove into the + ground, tied the rope to it and heaved the end over the rock. + Our friendly Parson then waved towards the sea, remarking, + 'There you are, how do you like it? The birds breed in the rocks + at the bottom.' Honestly I did _not_ like it, but Fred remarked, + 'Thank you, that will do well,' and without another word seized + the rope and was soon at the bottom. I _had_ to follow, the + Parson looking down from the top very much like the picture of + Nebuchadnezzar looking down at Daniel in the lions' den. The + Little Auk was not there, only Puffins inhabited that part of + the island, and we had to regain the top as best we could. Later + on we were shown a spot where the bird really did breed, and two + eggs rewarded us for the long journey. We left again the same + evening in a thick fog, Selous curling himself up once more on + the rusty chains, and utterly oblivious to the fact that it was + just a toss-up if our helmsman ever found the mainland again or + not. A short time after this event we were resting at a + farmhouse, and as usual asked if the boys knew of any nests. One + of them replied that there was a Merlin's nest with five eggs in + some rocks a few miles from the farm. Off we started, and all + went well until we came to the face of a nasty crumbling steep + place. The farm-boy, with only a pair of shoes made from raw + sheepskin, made no bones about it and dashed up to the top. I + was next, and after going up a certain distance could find no + foothold and had to stop where I was. Selous was a little below + me, and, when he reached my none too comfortable seat, I + suggested that it was no place for me, and that the boy who was + at the nest might as well bring down the eggs. This was not + Fred's way of doing things, he simply remarked, 'I think I'll go + a little further.' He did, right up into the nest, returning + with the five eggs, and this too with a pair of long, heavy + Norwegian field-boots on. I felt a proper weakling, but our + friend never once rubbed it in by word or deed. Of side he had + none, and the possibility of hurting anyone's feelings was + absolutely repugnant to him _always_. During our long rides in + Iceland, he told me many things about his life in Africa in the + earlier days. How I wish I could have taken down the stories he + related! To hear him talk was like listening to someone reading + a book. He was never at a loss for a word or the name of a + place. Perhaps we would have been riding together in silence for + some time, then Fred would turn round with the remark, 'Do you + know,' he then would start and tell me something of his early + days in Africa, what may never have been published, things he + did for which _others_ got the praise. I fear this most + unselfish of men was far too often made use of. Not that Selous + did not see through the schemes of various impostors; he did, + but as he would never have done a dirty trick to a living soul, + he could not believe they would to him. His fondness for tea was + a fine advertisement for this indigestible drink. He told me + that in his early camping days in Africa, he used to throw a + handful of tea in the pot before starting off to hunt, let it + simmer all day, freshening it with another handful in the + evening. The tea-leaves were never emptied! The first time he + stayed with me I saw him making very bad weather of a glass of + champagne; on asking if he would prefer something else, the + prompt reply came--'Tea.' Ever after that he was provided with + his pet drink, and it used to interest me to see how he + invariably left the spoon in the cup, a relic of old veldt days + where manners were unknown. Fred's ideas on food were different + to most people's. One evening after a wretched eight hours' ride + in pouring cold rain, just as we neared the farm where we were + to rest, I said, 'How would you like to dine with me at the Ritz + to-night? A little clear soup, a grilled sole, lamb cutlets and + green peas, mushrooms on toast and a bottle of Champagne 94?' + 'Thanks very much, but if I had my choice of what I should like + best, it would be good fat moose and tea.' + + "I think it was not generally known that Selous held strong + views about what he called Psychic Force, for during the whole + of our long friendship I only once heard him let himself go on + this subject, and I am bound to confess that coming from a man + like him whose every word was truth, anyone who heard him relate + what he had seen take place in his own home with only his + brothers and sisters present, could not but help owning that he + was in the presence of something beyond his understanding. His + conversation was always worth listening to, but like all brave + men, it was difficult to get him to talk. If he liked those + present, he would often delight his audience and yarn on for + hours, if he didn't, he was civility and politeness itself, but + no yarns! His little sayings, without _an atom_ of side, always + amused me. The last time but one that I saw him when on leave, I + remarked on his close-cropped beard. 'Yes,' he said, 'it looked + so white in the bush, they seemed as if they were always + shooting at it.' + + "When war broke out I had not seen him for some little time. I + was killing rabbits in the park, and on looking up saw Fred. He + was furious, he had hoped to be sent to France as a 'Guide,' but + the scheme fell through, and he feared he would not get a job. + How cross he was! Shortly after I received a wire that he was + coming over to lunch. He arrived radiant as a boy home from + school, the reason being that he was to go to Africa with a + contingent of 150 men with the rank of lieutenant, at the age of + sixty-three! And yet there are conscientious shirkers who _also_ + call themselves 'Englishmen.' The last time I saw him he lunched + here on the way from Gloucester when he had been to say good-bye + to his boy in the Flying Corps, and was just starting for his + return to Africa. In the midst of all he had to do, and the rush + of settling his affairs, he heard of our own trouble. Sitting + down at once, he found time to write one of the most + sympathetic, charming letters one pal may write to another. It + came straight from that great heart which knew no fear, but + loved his neighbour far better than himself." + +Of the trip to Iceland Selous writes to Chapman (July 26th, 1913):-- + + "Just a line to tell you that Heatley Noble and I got back from + Iceland a few days ago. We had a lot of cold, disagreeable + weather, but got a nice lot of eggs; indeed, practically + everything that one can get in Iceland, except the Purple + Sandpiper. When we got to where they were, it was too late, and + we only found a pair with young. We got some eggs which were + taken a fortnight earlier. We found the Red-necked Pharalope + breeding in hundreds at Myvatn and other places, and we also + took several clutches of Grey Pharalope which we found breeding + in some numbers in two districts. We got all the Iceland ducks + at and near Myvatn, including the Harlequin, Barrow's Golden + Eye, Scaup, Long-tailed Duck, Scoter and several others. Whooper + Swans were plentiful in some parts of the south and west, but + not in the north, and we saw a good many Great Northern Divers, + and got several clutches of eggs. We went out to the island of + Grimsey, thirty miles north of the north coast of Iceland and + just within the Arctic circle, and got the eggs of the Little + Auk there; and also Snow Buntings, which were extraordinarily + abundant on the island. Redwings and Mealy Redpolls we got in + the birch scrub in the north. But I will tell you all about our + trip when we meet. The boys came home on Wednesday, and we are + all going to Scotland on August 9th. I don't yet know when the + show will come on at which I shall have to speak, but I hope + that it will not be before October. I found the Sandpipers' and + Wheatears' eggs on my arrival home." + +In August and September he went to Scotland for the grouse-shooting, +which he enjoyed, but which never seemed to fill the place in his mind +of Africa. He was always thinking of the land of sunshine, and says to +Chapman (September 9th, 1913):-- + + "During the long waits at grouse-driving the other day, I was + always wishing myself in the forests on the slopes of Mount + Kenia, collecting butterflies, for there every moment was full + of excitement. I am sorry to tell you that my dear old mother's + health--she is now in her eighty-eighth year--is such that it + will henceforth be impossible for me to leave England again on + any long trip during her lifetime. She is not ill, but she has + lost strength terribly during the last three months, and I do + not think her life can be much further prolonged. So now all + hope of going to the Sudan this winter is gone, and as at my age + every year tells heavily against me, I doubt whether I shall + ever get a giant Eland for the Natural History Museum." + +Abel Chapman at this time asked Selous to go with him to the Sudan, but +Selous could not go then, as he had business with his mother's will, +but suggested he might possibly join him in February, 1914, down the +Nile below the sudd. + +In November, 1913, he went to Rugby to give a lecture, and to see his +boy Freddy, of whom he was very proud. To Chapman he says:-- + + "I went there yesterday (Rugby) to see the football match + against Cheltenham College. Freddy played for Rugby. He has + played in every out match for the school this term, against the + Old Guard, the Oxford A, the old Rugbeians, and Cheltenham + College, so I think he is now definitely in the first fifteen. + As he is now only fifteen years of age, and will not be sixteen + till April 21st next, I think that is rather good; indeed, I + think he must be the youngest boy in the school fifteen, and so + may some day be Captain of the Rugby fifteen. He plays forward, + and weighed 11 stone 10 lbs." + +Young Fred Selous was a true son of his father, and very like him in +many ways. He had the same charm and modesty of manner, and had he lived +would have gone far, and no doubt made his mark in the world. But it was +not to be, for he gave his life for his country on January 4th, 1918, on +the same day one year later than the death of his father. He was +educated at Bilton Grange and Rugby, where he proved to be an excellent +athlete, being in the Running VIII, and in 1915 Captain of the Rugby XV. +He entered Sandhurst in September, 1915, and on leaving in April, 1916, +was gazetted to the Royal East Surrey Regiment and attached to the +R.F.C. Very soon he developed exceptional ability as a flying officer. +In July, 1916, he went to the front and was awarded both the Military +Cross and the Italian Silver Medal of Military Valour. My friend, +Lieutenant Edward Thornton, was flying close to Freddy Selous on the +fatal day, and states:-- + + "I was up at 15,000 ft. over the German lines, when I saw + Captain Selous take a dive at a German machine some 2000 feet + below. What actually happened I do not know, but all at once I + saw both wings of the machine collapse, and he fell to the earth + like a stone." + +The major commanding Freddy's squadron thus wrote to his bereaved +mother:-- + + "It is a severe blow to the squadron to lose him, for he was + beloved by officers and men alike. In fact, his popularity + extended to a much greater area than his own aerodrome. In the + short time that I have known him I have been struck with the + courage and keenness of your son--always ready for his jobs, and + always going about his work with the cheeriest and happiest of + smiles. He was the life and soul of the mess." + +The second son of Selous and his wife is Harold Sherborne Selous, who +will be nineteen in October, 1918. He was educated at Radley College, +and is at present in the Officers' Cadet Battalion at Pirbright, and +expects to take a commission shortly. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[58] The collection of Birds and Mammals made by the Roosevelt +expedition is now for the most part in the American Museum of Natural +History at New York and at Washington. It is probably the best +collection ever made by one expedition in Africa, and the book which the +President wrote--"African Game Trails"--will always remain one of the +best works of reference on the subject. + +[59] President Roosevelt realised his hopes. In two days, between Sir +Alfred Pease's farm and the railway (Kapiti Plains), he and his son +Kermit killed seven lions. They also killed several others in the Sotik. + +[60] Mr. Edward North Buxton also did much to help the President in his +forthcoming trip. + +[61] Selous gave a full account of his trip in articles in the "Field," +July-September, 1911. + +[62] George Grey, brother of Lord Grey of Falloden, an excellent hunter +and charming personality. He was killed by a lion on Sir Alfred Pease's +estate in 1910. + +[63] Selous, like all other good sportsmen, cherished a warm +appreciation for the "Field" newspaper. Mr. J. E. Harting, the Natural +History and Shooting Editor, was an old and much valued friend. + +[64] See "The Field," June 8th, 1912. + +[65] She died peacefully in 1913. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII +1914-1915 + + +In May, 1914, Selous went to Texel Island, on the coast of Holland, +where he took a few eggs and enjoyed watching the Ruffs, Avocets, +Godwits, Turnstones, and Spoonbills. In June and July he was making +preparations for an expedition with his friend Abel Chapman to the Sudan +and White Nile, with the object of collecting Gazelles and eventually, +if possible, the Giant Eland. The plan was to enter via Port Sudan, +shoot Ibex and Gazelles between that port and Khartoum and then go south +in January, 1915, to Lake No, where Mrs. Gray's Lechwe could be found. +Selous would then leave his friend and go to Wau for the Elands, and +afterwards to the hinterland of the Bahr-el-Ghazal and search for the +various local races of Uganda Kob found there and still imperfectly +known.[66] + +Other events of greater importance, however, put an end to this proposed +trip. In August commenced the Great War, in which Selous at first had no +thought of taking part, but as a succession of adverse circumstances +multiplied, he felt that interest and responsibility in the conflict of +nations that true men of whatever rank or station must experience. +Foresight, common sense, and a knowledge of the great power of the +Central Empires soon convinced him that in order to beat them, sooner or +later we should have to enrol every fit man in the United Kingdom. He +was not a man to delay once his mind was made up. The question was only +how and where his services could be of most use. He understood "the +bush" and "bush fighting" better than most men and he resolved to try +and join the forces fighting in East Africa. + +Soon he learned that it was probable that his friend Colonel Driscoll +was about to organize a force, perhaps for service in East Africa, or +even for the front in France. + +Writing to Abel Chapman on August 12th, 1914, he says:-- + + "Before seeking enrolment in the Legion of Frontiersmen, I went + to one of the biggest Life Insurance Companies in London and was + examined by their chief medical officer, and I have got a + splendid certificate of health. After saying that he found all + my organs perfectly sound he goes on, 'his heart in particular, + considering the active life he has led, is in excellent + condition. He is also remarkably active and muscular and in my + opinion fit for service anywhere.' I may say that Colonel + Driscoll has not yet got his authority from the Government to + get his men together, though he has enrolled several thousand + and is prepared to come forward at a moment's notice. I fear + that there will be frightful delay, as I have good reason to + believe that none of our troops have yet left England and the + Government will attend to nothing until they have got all their + regular forces to the front. However, if the war goes on for any + time they will want all the men they can get, and I fully expect + that the Legion of Frontiersmen will get to the front sooner or + later, but perhaps not till the Colonial forces arrive in + England." + +Writing on August 14th, 1914, he says:-- + + "I believe this war will be a terrific business, and that we + shall have to send something like a million of men out of the + country before it is over, so that sooner or later I think I + shall get into the fighting line. Freddy will not be old enough + to volunteer until April 21st next, when he will be seventeen, + and I fully expect that he will be wanted. _If I should be + eliminated it would not matter a bit as I have had my day_, but + it would be a pity if so promising a boy got scuppered at the + outset of his life." + +All this time he was fretting at official delays, for writing to +Chapman, September 22nd, 1914, he betrays his impatience. + + "It passes my understanding why the War Office will not give the + order to Colonel Driscoll to take some of his men, who are all + well disciplined and can shoot, to the front at once.... I am + afraid that Lord Kitchener has no intention of employing + anything in this war but regular troops.... Driscoll offered to + take 1000 men to British East Africa to invade and take German + East Africa,[67] but this offer was also refused." + + In October, Colonel Driscoll thought there was no chance of + being employed. "I personally," writes Selous to Chapman, + October 23rd, 1914, "do not think he will ever be employed at + all, so I determined to make an application direct to the War + Office for service at the front with the Army Service Corps, or + as an interpreter, or for any kind of work in which a good + knowledge of French and some German might be useful. I got two + letters of introduction to two members of Parliament who are + working at the War Office and was sympathetically received by + them. I took my health certificate with me. My application for + service was submitted straight to Lord Kitchener, and I have got + his reply from H. J. Tennant, M.P.: 'I spoke to Lord Kitchener + to-day about you and he thought that _your age was prohibitive + against your employment_ here or at the seat of war in Europe.' + Well, I suppose that is the end of it, for I put no faith in + Driscoll's belief that sooner or later his services will be + required, so I suppose that neither you nor I will be allowed to + serve our country in this war. We are looked upon as useless old + buffers." + + In November, 1914, he was doing special constable at Pirbright + and was rather depressed that he could get nothing better to do, + and that his boy Freddy would soon have to go into training as a + soldier. He hoped his son would be able to join the Egyptian + Army and have "a good time in the Sudan or the King's African + Rifles. As I can do nothing that really matters, I often feel + that I should like to go right away--say to the Belgian + Congo--hunting and collecting for a year. But until the war is + over, or nearly over, I am afraid I shall not be able to leave + here, as besides being enrolled myself as a special constable, I + have now undertaken to do a lot of work under the 'Defence of + the Realm' Act. I feel it is all unnecessary fuss and bother, as + even if a raid could be made on the East coast of England, no + invasion could take place south of the Thames until the French + are conquered and crushed, and the Germans take possession of + all the Channel ports opposite our south-eastern shores, and + further until our Navy has lost command of the seas. Personally + I don't believe that either of these disasters can ever happen, + so I must do what the Government requires. Anyhow I feel that it + is a waste of energy." (Letter to Chapman, November 11th, 1914.) + +In February, 1915, he still had hopes of going to East Africa with +Colonel Driscoll's force, and speaks of the difficulties he had +encountered in obtaining his commission in a letter to my wife. +(February 18th, 1915.) + + "I know absolutely nothing about the 'Legion of Frontiersmen' as + far as service is concerned, but Colonel Driscoll has always + promised me that if he was sent abroad, he would take me with + him as 'Intelligence Officer.' After last September, when he + offered to take 1000 or 2000 men to East Africa and his services + were declined by the War Office and the Colonial Office, I tried + to get a job myself with the Army Service Corps in France. I + went to the War Office and saw Mr. Tennant and said that I could + speak French, a good deal of German and make the Flemish people + understand my South African Dutch. Mr. Tennant laid my + application and my very excellent bill of health before Lord + Kitchener, who wrote me the next day simply saying that 'my age + was prohibitive against giving me any employment either here or + at the seat of war in Europe.' After that I gave up all hope of + being able to do anything and settled down as leader of the + special constables of Pirbright, and also did work for the + 'Defence of the Realm' Act. In December, however, I got a letter + from Colonel Driscoll saying, 'If I am ordered out--as is very + probable--to East Africa, will you come with me?' I wired at + once to say I would be ready at very short notice, and went to + see him. I found that the War Office had sent for him and asked + him how long it would take him to get together 1000 men for + service in East Africa. He said that the War Office had already + got 3000 men, originally enrolled in the Legion, who when they + found that they could not be employed in a body had enlisted in + the new army. However, he undertook to get 1000 men by the end + of January, and I can vouch that he was working very hard to + accomplish this, when he got a letter from the W. O. (who had + told him to get on with the enlistment of the men) saying that + for the present his services would not be required, as they were + in communication with the Government of India as to getting more + troops for East Africa from there. Everything seemed over again, + but about three weeks ago, I got another letter from Driscoll + saying, 'Are you available for service at once?' The W. O. had + come to him again and asked _him_ to get 1000 men together by + February 10th. I have been helping him since then in getting + notices in the papers, and receiving the names of men willing to + serve in East Africa. Colonel Driscoll wanted and still wants to + take me with him as Intelligence Officer, so I went last Monday + to the War Office and saw Major Guest (who was with + Major-General Lloyd the other day when he inspected Driscoll's + men) and asked him about maps of German East Africa, and Major + Guest then told me that they were not going to give Driscoll an + Intelligence Officer. He told me that Driscoll would just have + to put down the names of his officers and submit them to the W. + O. for acceptance or rejection. As I told Major Guest, this + would mean that my name would certainly be rejected on account + of my age. I then saw Driscoll again, and found him very much + discouraged, as he said that not only had the W. O. refused to + allow either a signalling officer, a transport, or an + intelligence officer[68] on his strength, but they also wanted + to impose some men of their own choosing on him as officers, + whom he does not know, thereby obliging him to dismiss some of + his company officers, who have served with him, and whom he does + know. I think it quite possible that Driscoll may resign, but he + will not do so until he has got the men the War Office want. As + far as I am concerned I now think my chances of going to Africa + with this force are small, although Major Guest told me that + General Lloyd was in favour of letting me go. I know absolutely + nothing about the Legion of Frontiersmen in this country, nor do + I believe that there is the slightest chance of the Germans + landing any force in this country, as long as our Navy remains + in being." + + On February 4th, 1915, he went to see Colonel Driscoll, who said + the War Office had stretched the age-limit in his case, that he + would take him to East Africa as Intelligence Officer. "I hope I + shall not prove too old for the job and break down," he writes. + Colonel Driscoll expected to have two or three months' training + and leave for East Africa in April. On March 7th, Mrs. Selous + went to Havre to work in the Y.M.C.A. hut there. Selous then left + for London. "It was thought that I would start for East Africa + with an advance contingent before she left for France," but he + was delayed, waiting for the whole regiment to go together. + Writing to Chapman, March 21st, 1915, he says: "I understand that + we are to start for East Africa next Saturday, or very soon + afterwards. Well, good-bye, old friend. These troublous times + will be over some day and then if we are still both alive and + have any vitality left, we must do that Nile trip." + +Selous landed with his battalion at Mombasa on May 4th, 1915. Colonel R. +Meinertzhagen gives a few particulars of the strange assortment of men +comprising the force:-- + + "The battalion (25th Royal Fusiliers) concentrated at Kajiado + soon after landing at Mombasa, when it was inspected by General + Tighe, then Commanding in East Africa. I accompanied Tighe on + this inspection, and we formed a very high opinion of the + officers and men. They were an unpolished lot but real good + business-like men who meant fighting. + + [Illustration: Mt. Kilimanjaro From The North.] + + "Selous was then in front of his platoon, looking very serious + and standing strictly to attention. We recognized each other at + once and were soon deep in the question of the validity of the + Nakuru Hartebeest and the breeding of the Harlequin Duck in + Iceland. We both forgot we were on parade, much to the amusement + of Selous' platoon, who still stood rigidly to attention + throughout the discussion. + + "Selous' company was indeed a mixed lot and contained men from + the French Foreign Legion, ex-Metropolitan policemen, a general + of the Honduras Army, lighthouse keepers, keepers from the Zoo, + Park Lane plutocrats, music-hall acrobats, but none the less + excellent stuff and devoted to their officers." + +After some delays the regiment was sent up by the Uganda railway to the +Victoria Nyanza, where they went by steamer to attack the German forces +on the Western bank of the Great Lake at Bukoba. The following notes are +Selous' own account of these operations. + + _Personal Experiences, during the Attack on and Capture of the Town + and Wireless Installation at Bukoba, on the Western side of Lake + Victoria Nyanza._ + + It was about midnight on June 21st, 1915, or very early on the + morning of June 22nd, that we approached an island in the bay of + Bukoba, which, as the captain of our ship no doubt knew very + well, and as we were to find out on the following day, was only + about half a mile from the town, and the fine wireless + installation close to the Lake shore. We had been going very + slowly and quietly for some time before nearing the island, and + the intention of our commander-in-chief may have been to land + his forces in the dark, without the knowledge of the Germans. + But the guard on the island were wide awake, and either heard or + saw our steamer approaching, as they immediately sent up six + blue lights, one after the other, which illuminated the whole + island, and of course, warned the Germans in Bukoba that a + hostile British force was about to attack the town. They no + doubt thought that this attack would be made in the bay itself, + under cover of the ships' guns, as we found later that all their + trenches and block-houses along the shores of the bay had been + manned. After the flashlights had gone up, and it was evident + that a surprise attack on the town was no longer possible, all + our ships retired in the darkness for some little distance, but + before daylight again approached the coast, at a point some + three miles to the north of Bukoba, from which they were hidden + by a point of land. We all stood to arms on the crowded decks at + 4 a.m., and silently waited for daylight. At the first streak of + dawn, about 5.30, the disembarkation of our men (400 of the 25th + Battalion Royal Fusiliers) commenced. My Company, A, was the + first to land, a somewhat slow process, as the heavy row-boats + only travelled very slowly and our ship was further than it + looked from the shore. From within a few yards of the water's + edge to the base of a precipitous slope, some 200 yards distant, + which in places was a sheer cliff, some 300 or 400 feet high, + the ground was covered with bush and large banana-plantations, + amongst which were scattered a few large and comfortable-looking + native huts. Had the Germans only known that we were going to + attempt a landing at this spot and brought a machine-gun to the + top of the cliff, or had they even lined the top of the cliff + with riflemen, they would probably have been able to kill every + man in the closely packed boats, and sunk the latter before they + reached the shore. Luckily they did not know where we were going + to land, until too late, for once on shore, we worked our way as + quickly as possible through the banana-plantations, and gained + the top of the cliff unopposed. We were only just in time, + however, as we were soon engaged with the enemy's forces, which, + having now become aware of our intentions, were rapidly + advancing to meet us. The disembarkation of B, C, and D + Companies (100 men each) of our battalion was now proceeding + rapidly, and the advance towards the town commenced.[69] + + It is impossible for me to attempt to give any general idea of + the whole engagement, which lasted for two days, and I can only + tell you some of my own experiences and impressions. We fought + in a long thin skirmishing line, which extended from the sea to + over a mile inland, and slowly and gradually pushed our + opponents back towards Bukoba. On the right of our frontiersmen + were 300 men of the Loyal North Lancashire regiment, and + somewhere--I believe near the sea-shore, though I must confess + that I never saw them--was a contingent of the King's African + Rifles--native African troops, commanded by white officers. Our + whole force was supported by four guns of an Indian Mountain + Battery (the 28th) and four machine-guns. The forces opposed to + us were undoubtedly very inferior to ours numerically, and + consisted, I think, entirely of well-trained and well-armed + native and Arab troops, commanded by German commissioned and + non-commissioned officers, and a number of German civilian + sharpshooters (men who no doubt have done a lot of big game + hunting) armed with sporting rifles, fitted with hair-triggers + and telescopic sights. With these rifles they used soft-nosed + expanding bullets.[70] They had two cannons, I do not know of + what calibre,[71] but of quite a considerable range and two + machine-guns. But in another way our opponents had a very great + advantage over us, as they had the benefit of the most splendid + cover, banana-plantations, patches of thick bush, and bits of + ground strewn with rocks, against which we had to advance in the + open. Many bullets seemed to pass very close to me, whilst + others were much too high. Several times, too, a machine-gun was + turned on my platoon, but the range was quite 2000 yards and my + men were very scattered, and the rocks and stones gave us good + cover between our advances. Presently two of our own + machine-guns came up, and searched the hill-side for the enemy's + gun, firing all along the crest of the hill. I do not know if + they actually put any of the German machine-gun contingent out + of action, but they certainly caused them to withdraw their gun. + + In the course of the day I had a rather curious experience. I + was expecting to see the men of C Company on my right, when I + suddenly saw two men dressed in khaki and wearing helmets + amongst the rocks, less than 200 yards away from me on my right. + There were also two or three natives in khaki with them. I said + to Corporal Jenner, who was close to me, "Those must be two of + our men with some of the native carriers," and we stepped out + into the open. We were immediately fired on, but still I could + not bring myself to fire back at them, and thinking that they + were our own men and that seeing us suddenly, where they did not + expect any of our men to be, they had mistaken us for Germans, I + took off my helmet and waved it to them. One of them at once + removed his helmet and waved it back to me. I was just putting + on my helmet again, when the Germans--for they were + Germans--fired at me again, and then dived in amongst the rocks. + Their bullets appeared to whistle very close past me, though + they may not have been as near as they seemed. At one point a + lot of the enemy whom my platoon had gradually forced out of the + rocks had to cross the open valley below, but they were then a + long way off, and though we expended a lot of ammunition on them + I only saw one drop. We also killed one black soldier at close + quarters in the rocks, and I have his rifle, which I shall keep + as a souvenir. + + About 5 o'clock our whole force advanced across the open valley + below the ridges we had taken nearly the whole day to clear. To + do this we had to get through a swamp, intersected by a small + river, which was much more than waist deep. Having negotiated + this, we then took possession of two rocks, hills from which we + drove the enemy just before it got dark. I was standing beside a + stone on the top of the first hill, when a bullet struck a small + dead stump just in front of and within a yard of me. Where the + bullet afterwards went I don't know, but it sent a large chunk + of dead wood against my chest, and another against a man just + behind me, which hit him in the groin. He evidently thought he + was hit and fell to the ground with a groan. But he was no more + hit or hurt than I was, and soon recovered his composure. We had + had a very hard day, having had nothing to eat, and not even a + cup of coffee before leaving the ship. Provisions were to have + been sent on shore for us, but if they were, we never got them. + I had a hard biscuit and a lump of cheese in my pocket, but + these were ruined in the swamp. General Stewart and his Staff + joined us in the evening, and one of his staff gave Major Webb, + Lieutenant Hargraves and myself each a small sausage. Colonel + Kitchener (Lord Kitchener's brother) was with General Stewart's + Staff, and he introduced himself to me, and was as nice as + possible. He insisted on giving me a few thin biscuits which I + shared with my two company officers. The day had been intensely + hot and muggy, but the night was clear and there was a good + moon. Colonel Driscoll wanted to go on and take the town by + storm in the night; but General Stewart thought it better to + wait until the morning. Most of our men were, I think, very much + exhausted, but I, I think, was in as good shape as any of them. + I really was not tired at all. We passed a most uncomfortable + night.[72] As soon as the dew began to fall it got very cold, so + cold that we could not sleep at all. We were wet through too up + to our chests. During the night someone set light to some native + huts in the banana-plantation below our hill, so I took + advantage of the blaze and went down there, and stripping stark + naked dried all my things before going up the hill again. Whilst + I was doing this our dead were taken past on stretchers. The + wounded had been taken on to our hospital-ship in the afternoon. + + Before dawn on the morning of June 23rd, we all stood to arms + again on the top of the hills we had occupied the previous + evening, and very glad we all were when at last day broke and + the long, cold, dreary, sleepless night was past. We had nothing + to eat, and nothing to drink but the water in our + water-bottles, and again commenced the day's work on empty + stomachs. Soon after daybreak, our signaller brought a message + to Colonel Driscoll from General Stewart, telling him to send an + officer and twenty men through the bush and banana-plantations + below the hill, in order to find out the line taken by the road + (which we could plainly see passing below our hill and entering + the plantations) through the swamps which lay between us and the + town of Bukoba, and then to approach as near the town as + possible in order to ascertain what forces were defending it. + Colonel Driscoll and Major Webb did me the honour to select me + to lead this patrol, and I lost no time in selecting twenty good + men of my own platoon to accompany me. After getting off the + hill we advanced in single file along the road, I leading, and + my men following, with intervals of about six paces between + them. We followed the road, and it was somewhat jumpy work, + passing along the edge of several banana-plantations, and + patches of bush, as they afforded such ideal cover for + sharpshooters of the type we had encountered on the previous + day. However, there were none there, and we presently emerged on + to an open plain covered with grass about two or two and a half + feet high, and saw the road running through it straight in to + the town. All along the road were posts at intervals of fifty + yards or so supporting a telegraph or telephone wire which was + probably connected up with some fort from which we had compelled + the enemy to retire on the previous day. + + On emerging into the open beyond the plantations at the foot of + the hill, we were perhaps twelve or fifteen hundred yards from + the wireless installation and the nearest houses. The sea-shore + was perhaps half a mile to our left, and between us and the lake + ran a reedy swamp, which we could see ran to within some 500 + yards of the wireless installation and then curved to the right, + the straight road we were on going right across it over a + bridge. I now followed the road across the open ground, + searching both to right and left and straight in front for any + signs of the enemy. But we could see nothing and hear nothing, + and I began to think that possibly Bukoba had been deserted + during the night, and that I and my patrol might walk right + into it unopposed, But as we approached the bridge over the + swamp, I saw the opportunities it offered for an ambush, and so + passed the word down my line of men telling them to leave the + road, and keeping their relative positions, edge off to the + left, in the direction of the swamp. We had hardly commenced + this movement, when we were fired on from somewhere near the + bridge. "Down," I shouted, and my command was obeyed with the + utmost alacrity. The bullets whistled past us, but no one was + hit, and we then crawled through the grass to the swamp, and + then again advanced along its edge until we were within about + 600 yards of the wireless installation. Along the swamp we + usually had good cover, but whenever I tried to reconnoitre and + raised myself above the grass to get a good look round I was + fired on, I could not tell exactly from where. Two or three + times a machine-gun was turned on us, but except when trying to + reconnoitre we were pretty safe, and the bullets really whizzed + over us. I expected that our whole battalion would have received + orders to advance on the town shortly after my patrol had shown + that there were no enemy forces on this side of where the road + crossed the swamp. But before this happened the enemy's gun + positions were shelled both by the Indian Mounted Battery on the + hill, and by the guns on our ships, which were now closing in on + the Bay of Bukoba. The Germans returned the fire of the Mountain + Battery most pluckily with two guns mounted on the hill behind + the town, but did not reply to the fire of the ships' guns. This + artillery duel had gone on for some time when about 9 o'clock a + terrific storm burst over the area of the fighting, accompanied + by torrential rain and partial darkness. In a few minutes my men + and I, and all who were exposed to its violence, were soaked to + the skin. The rain, however, was luckily, if not exactly warm, + not cold and gave us no sense of chill. + + When the storm was over, the big guns again opened fire. Several + hours had now passed since I left the hill on which our + battalion had passed the night, and I wondered why no general + advance had been made on the town. I did not think that it + would be either wise or right to advance any further with only + twenty men, as I knew there was a machine-gun in front of us, + somewhere near the wireless installation, and it was impossible + to tell what forces were still holding Bukoba and waiting to + open fire from the shelter of the houses on any men advancing + against it. So I sent one of the men with me--a South African + named Budler--and my native boy Ramazani, with a note to Colonel + Driscoll that there was a good line of advance towards Bukoba, + along the edge of the swamp where my men were lying. My men met + Colonel Driscoll and learnt from him that a general advance was + in fact then taking place. C Company soon came up and took up + their position a little beyond me along the reed-bed, and I + learnt that Major Webb with the rest of A Company was advancing + on our right, and then B and D Companies were still further to + the right. The Adjutant, Captain White, then came along and + thought that some of us ought to cross to the further side of + the swamp. This was at once done by the men of C Company, some + of my men with myself as their leader, and Captain White + himself. The stream in the middle of the swamp was quite deep + and we all got wet up to our breasts. Just before we crossed the + swamp Lieutenant Miles of the King's African Rifles came up with + a machine-gun, with which he opened fire on one of the houses + near the wireless installation, from which we thought that a + German machine-gun had been firing at us. This proved to be + right, but unfortunately the German gun got the range of our gun + first, and when three of his men had been wounded, one very + severely, Lieutenant Miles had to withdraw his gun into the + shelter of the hollow formed by the reed-bed. German + sharpshooters, firing from we could not tell exactly where, were + now sending some bullets disagreeably close to us as we lay flat + just beyond the swamp. These bullets, fortunately in no great + number, seemed to ping past us only a few inches above our + bodies. Presently Sergeant-Major Bottomly of C Company came + across the swamp, and lay down alongside of me, or at least + separated from me by just a yard, my black boy Ramazani lying + between us, but a little lower down, so that his head was on a + line with my hips. I just said a word to Bottomly, and then + turned my head away from him again to look in the direction from + which the bullets were coming. Almost immediately my black boy + Ramazani touched me, and said: "Master, soldier hit, dead." I + had never heard a sound, but turning my head I saw poor Bottomly + lying on his back, stone dead, with a bullet through his head. I + noticed a large signet ring on his right hand, as his arm hung + limp across his body. His head and face were nearly covered by + his helmet, but the blood was trickling down over his throat, + and I knew that he must have been shot through the brain and + killed instantaneously. + + Our ships had now crept right into the Bay of Bukoba, and as + they fired on the town, or the enemy's gun positions, their + shells came screaming and whistling over us. The machine-guns + were going too with their wicked rattle, and bullets from + snipers' rifles came with an unpleasant sound, sometimes + apparently within a few inches of our bodies, which were just + then pressed as close to the ground as possible. I thought, as I + lay there only a yard away from the blood-stained corpse of poor + Sergeant-Major Bottomly, listening to the peculiar noise of each + kind of projectile as it found its invisible course through the + air above and around me, that I could recall various half-hours + of my life passed amidst much pleasanter surroundings. And yet + what a small and miserable thing this was, after all, in the way + of a battle compared with the titanic combats which have been + taking place in Europe ever since the greatest war in history + commenced last August. I can well understand how the nerves of + any man, however strong, may be shaken to pieces, by the awful + clamour of the giant shells and the concentrated fire of many + machine-guns, and countless numbers of rifles, and the terrible + havoc wrought by these fearful weapons of destruction. + + As the advance of the companies of our battalion on the right + seemed to be very slow, and we did not know exactly what + opposition lay in front of us, Colonel Driscoll asked me to call + for three or four volunteers, and crawl forwards in order to + make a reconnaissance. I took four men of my own platoon who + were close to me. We had not proceeded far when a shot was fired + at us from somewhere to our right. This bullet seemed just to + skim over us. We immediately lay flat, and wriggling to the left + got shelter in a slight hollow of the ground. Along this hollow + we advanced to within some three hundred yards of the house + nearest to the wireless installation, when several shots were + fired at us, and we could also hear talking beyond the rising + ground to our left. We could see no sign of the enemy near the + wireless installation, nor anywhere down the main street of the + town, and I think that Bukoba was at that time already deserted, + except for a few sharpshooters who were covering the evacuation, + so I at once crawled back to make my report to Colonel Driscoll. + On our way we passed some of Major Leitch's men (C Company) and + on my reaching Colonel Driscoll and making my report, he asked + me to collect the rest of my own men, and then took one of the + four men with me to guide him to where Major Leitch was, as he + wanted to speak to him. Almost immediately after I had parted + from him, my man, Private Mucklow (from Worcestershire), was + shot dead alongside of Colonel Driscoll, as he had incautiously + stood up. This, I think, was almost if not absolutely the last + shot fired by the enemy, and no opposition whatever was made to + the advance upon, and occupation of the town by our battalion. I + think that both their machine-guns had been put out of action by + shells from the Indian Mounted Battery, but they were carried + away. They abandoned one of their pieces of artillery, however. + We found it with four oxen ready yoked to drag it away, but a + shell from our battery had killed one of the oxen and so in + their hurry the Germans abandoned the gun. The sappers destroyed + most completely the wonderful structure of the wireless + installation, which was something like a small Eiffel Tower, and + nearly if not quite 200 feet high, with immensely strong + concrete foundations. It must have cost a great deal of money to + construct in Germany and then convey over so many thousands of + miles of land and sea to the very heart of Africa all the + component parts of this wonderful example of material + civilization, but I suppose the destruction of this wireless + installation was the chief object of this expedition to Bukoba. + + Immediately upon entering the town my company was sent on to the + hill behind it to guard against any attack, and the men of the + Loyal North Lancashire regiment presently worked round along the + ridge of the higher hills beyond, and posted pickets on all + points of vantage. I therefore did not actually witness the + destruction of the wireless installation. Neither I nor my men + had had anything to eat since the previous evening and very + little since the evening before we left the ship, but we got + some bananas in the plantations on the hillsides below us, + though only a few of them were ripe. My men, however, brought me + two fine large ones quite ripe and of a most delicious flavour. + + There was a sort of arsenal on the hill we were guarding, and + this was blown up about 5 o'clock, an immense amount of + ammunition being destroyed. The houses of the German residents, + probably Government officials for the most part, were very well + and comfortably built and furnished. The arsenal in the town was + set alight and great quantities of ammunition and some dynamite + destroyed. A good deal of beer and wine and provisions of + various kinds was discovered in Bukoba, but I saw no drunkenness + amongst our men. + + Just at sundown the order came from General Stewart that our + battalion was to parade and march to the jetty and re-embark at + once. But at first we had to bury our dead. A great grave was + dug in the sandy soil, between the burning arsenal and the + Governor's house, and in it were laid three deep the bodies of + six Britons, still swathed in their blood-stained clothes, who + had given their lives for King and Country, far, far away from + their native land and all who held them dear. These men had all + been killed outright, but two more who had died of their wounds + after being taken to the hospital-ship were brought ashore and + buried within sound of the murmuring waters of the great inland + lake. Altogether our casualties amounted to twenty; 8 killed and + 12 wounded. The re-embarkation of our battalion took a very long + time, and it was not till 2 a.m. on the morning of June 24th + that my company, A, at last got on board. Until then we had been + sitting and lying about on the jetty in our wet clothes, without + food, fire, or warm tea or coffee. + + Before midday on the 24th our flotilla started back across the + lake for Kisumu, which we reached on the evening of the 25th. + The authorities had made our men intensely uncomfortable on + board the steamer by putting a lot of mules on the crowded decks + with them. They were able to rest and get food at Kisumu, and + about six o'clock on the evening of the 26th we started by train + for Nairobi. Again the authorities packed our men like sardines + into miserable third-class carriages made for natives. They + could surely have given us two trains and so allowed our tired + men a little space to stretch themselves. We arrived at Nairobi + at 6.30 on the evening of the 27th, and were packed off again at + 7 o'clock for Kajiado. One would have thought that as our men + had come out from England to fight for East Africa, and that as + we had just returned from a successful attack on an enemy's + stronghold, and as our time of arrival in Nairobi had been + telegraphed on ahead, that something might have been done by the + townspeople on behalf of our tired and hungry men; or that even + some kind of official welcome might have been accorded them. But + not a bite of food for man or officer was to be had on our + arrival at Nairobi, and not even hot water could be obtained to + make tea with. + + Leaving Nairobi on the evening of June 27th, we reached our camp + at Kajiado early the following morning, and our first expedition + against the Germans was at an end. + + F. C. SELOUS, + Lieutenant 25th Battalion + Royal Fusiliers. + +In a letter to his friend Heatley Noble (July 26th, 1915), Selous, who +was then with his battalion guarding the Uganda railway near Voi, speaks +of the difficulties lying ahead of our people and the efforts, only +partially successful, to hold our territory against the splendidly +organized German forces. + + "Since our fight at Bukoba we have made an attack on a German + post in British territory on the road from Voi to Taveta. Our + attack in this case failed, as our information seems to have + been all wrong, and the Germans were found to be more strongly + posted than had been supposed. An Indian Punjabi regiment was + badly cut up, the Colonel killed and the Adjutant wounded and + taken prisoner. The native porters, carrying ammunition and + equipment of all kinds, threw down everything and cleared as + soon as the first shots were fired, and the Germans took + possession of everything, including the dead and wounded. They + buried the Colonel with full military honours, and allowed the + Adjutant to send word that he was being well looked after. There + were several other units engaged in this affair, 500 Rhodesians, + some of the Loyal North Lancs, and three companies of the + K.A.R.; but the casualties in all these contingents were very + small, only the Indian regiment apparently having got up against + the machine-guns. Things are now at a standstill out here, and + when there will be another move it is impossible to say. Botha + had 50,000 men, and equipment of all kinds to conquer the + Germans in South-West Africa, and he did his job splendidly. + Here we have under 2000 white troops, some 2000 African blacks + and a considerable number of Indians, most of them very much + demoralized as they caught it badly at Tanga and Jasin. The + Germans are said to have 4000 or 5000 white men in G.E.A. and + nearly 20,000 very well trained black troops under German + officers.[73] They are, too, splendidly equipped in every way, + and have no end of machine-guns and ammunition. Even if we had a + large army here, we could not move it across country to the + vital points in G.E.A., as the difficulties of transport would + be insurmountable. The only way would be to take Dar-es-Salaam + and Tanga, and then advance methodically up their railways, as + Botha did in S.W. Africa. For this we should require at least + 20,000 or 30,000 men, and as we are not likely to get them, in + my opinion we shall be stuck out here until peace is made in + Europe. I hope to God that will be before many months are over, + or all our young men will be killed. I hope and trust your sons + are still alive. I often think of them and of your and Mrs. + Noble's terrible anxiety. There has been a lot of + sickness--fever and dysentery--both amongst the officers and men + of this battalion, but only two deaths--two privates died of + dysentery. I think that I am the only one of our officers who + has not suffered at all from either bad diarrhoea, dysentery or + fever. I have been quite well all the time, and have never been + an hour off duty. Bukoba was rather hard, scarcely any food for + two days and nights, up to our chests in the swamps, and then + lying out in our wet clothes without fire or blanket. I did not + suffer any after-effects at all, I am glad to say, and have now + got into very good condition. The long marches do not tire me at + all, and the men now say that when I fall out no one will be + left standing in the battalion. This is, of course, nonsense, + but as far as standing fatigue, sun, thirst, etc., I think that + I am really better than most of them. Three of our officers have + been found unfit for further service, and there are some others + who are weak constitutionally, and will never be able to stand + any really hard work. So we are very short of officers, and + whether Colonel Driscoll's recommendation in my favour for good + conduct in the field is attended to or not, I shall very likely + get to be a captain before long, as I am the senior subaltern in + the battalion. I don't know my drill very well, but my men, I + hear, say they have great confidence in me, and will go anywhere + with me; but once I am through with this job, no more military + duty for me. I hate all the drill and routine-work, and I shall + be far too old to take part in any other war after this one." + +In a letter to me, written from Voi (December 8th, 1915), Selous gives a +short general survey of the operations since he landed. + + "MY DEAR JOHNNY, + + "Your letter of October 31st reached me here three days ago, and + I was very pleased to get it and to hear all your news. It is + now more than seven months since we landed at Mombasa, on May + 4th, and we have had a wearing, trying time ever since. Only one + of our officers has been killed, but there has been much + sickness both in our battalion and the Loyal North Lancs + regiment, which came here from India, and several of our men + have died from dysentery or fever, and several of our officers + have been invalided home. I think that I am the only officer who + has not been in hospital. So far I have not been ill at all and + I have never yet been a day off duty or had a day's leave. I + have never applied for leave, but if I can last out for a few + months longer, and during that time we are able to push the + Germans back over their own frontier, and are then able to force + them to give in, I want to get a couple of months' leave, and go + to Uganda, after those fine water-bucks on the Semliki river. We + were first of all on the high veldt in the game reserve on the + Magadi railway, and there the climate was very fine, but for the + last four months we have been in this comparatively low hot + country, protecting the Voi-Maktau railway, and hunting German + patrols and dynamiting parties, in the most frightful bush. I + was out in command of 30 rifles to the west of the Teita Hills + towards the Tsavo river, and tracked a German dynamiting party + for two days, and at one time was very close to them, but the + bush was simply awful and they got off (without bombing the + Uganda line) by moonlight, when we could no longer follow their + tracks. The day after I got back from this 11 days' patrol, I + was sent out again with 70 rifles and 120 porters to examine the + courses of the Mwatate and Bura rivers, and see how far they + carried water, and if there were any German patrols about. I was + out 7 days on this patrol. These patrols are not all pure joy, + as the heat of the sun is now very great, and heavy rain falls + almost every night. We can carry no tents or any kind of + protection against the weather, and we had three very bad + nights during the two patrols, lying in the soaking rain and mud + all night. Every night heavy thunder-storms break all round + about, but they are very local and we have been lucky in not + getting into the middle of more of them at nights. We often get + soaked in the daytime, but dry again as soon as the storm is + over. This bush-work is very trying, as the German black askaris + are very much better at it than heavily equipped white men, many + of whom have always lived in towns before coming out here. They + are recruited from fighting tribes--mostly Manyamwesi--and are + not only very brave, but very well armed. We have met with some + nasty knocks in this district, but have also ambushed the enemy + now and again, and inflicted heavy punishment on them. A party + of the Lancs were ambushed and badly cut up 6 miles from here + not long ago, losing 2 officers and nearly 20 men killed, and + when Lieutenant Dartnell of ours was killed,[74] the mounted + infantry to which he was attached were ambushed and suffered + severely. On the other hand, the mounted infantry with two + companies of Baluchis not long afterwards waylaid a party of the + enemy, and killed over 30 of them, and one German officer. Only + yesterday, the Boer force from the Uas n'gishu (Belfield's + Scouts) 100 men under Major Arnoldi, went out from Maktau, and + meeting a German force coming towards Maktau from their strongly + fortified position at M'buyuni, 13 miles away, attacked them, + and killed two white Germans and over 20 askaris, and took + prisoners 4 white Germans (2 wounded). The Boers had only one + casualty, which was unfortunately their leader Major Arnoldi. He + was only wounded in the shoulder, but fell from his saddle, and + his foot unfortunately catching in his stirrup had his brains + knocked out against a tree. In all the time I have been out here + I have only taken part in one incident of interest. That was the + journey up to and across the Victoria Nyanza, and the attack + on and capture of Bukoba on the western side of the lake. 400 of + our men took part in this adventure, and it was we men of the + 25th Fusiliers who did everything that was done. I was then a + lieutenant in A Company, and led my platoon on the first day, + and conducted a very risky patrol of 20 men early on the second + day, and a reconnaissance later--more risky still--with four men + who volunteered for the job. We had two days' fighting, and, as + I was always in front, I had personally some very narrow + escapes. I may tell you privately, but keep it to yourself, that + Colonel Driscoll was very pleased with my conduct at Bukoba, and + told me that he had recommended me for promotion and something + more, but as I have never heard anything more about it, no + notice was taken, I suppose, of Colonel Driscoll's + recommendation. I should certainly have liked my name to have + been mentioned in despatches. However, it can't be helped, and I + may get another chance. I have got my promotion to captain, but + that came to me in the natural course of events, as a Captain + Williams was invalided home, and I was the senior subaltern. You + may possibly have heard that there have been disasters out here, + but if the whole truth about everything out here is ever known + it will be a revelation to most people. It was certainly an evil + day for British East Africa _when the Indian Government took + over the defence of this country_.[75] With the exception of the + Baluchis and the Cashmiris all the other Indian troops have + failed badly out here, and have proved very inferior to either + our own K.A.R.'s or the German native askaris. The attack on, + and capture of Bukoba by our men is the only success on any + considerable scale yet scored by the British out here. I do not + say it was much, but at any rate we carried out what we were set + to do, and captured the town of Bukoba and destroyed the very + fine wireless installation. We hear that a British general from + France is on his way out here as G.O.C., and that large numbers + of troops are coming here both from South Africa and other + parts. Something is undoubtedly in preparation, but I suppose it + will be another two months before everything is in readiness for + a big advance. And the Germans may move first, as they have four + times as many men as we have, and many more guns and + machine-guns. We are now in a camp built by the North Lancs and + some Indian troops, or rather two camps a mile apart. Sickness + has reduced our battalion to about 700 men, and of these many + are weak and ill, and I don't think we have more than 400 men + who are really strong and capable of marching 20 miles in the + hot sun, with their heavy equipment. Our whole battalion, after + having been continually split up and sent in batches all over + the country, were at last brought all together again here under + Colonel Driscoll; three companies in the one camp and one in the + smaller camp a mile away. But last week the Colonel in command + at Maktau got nervous and ordered Colonel Driscoll to send half + his battalion there. Now we are left in this very large camp + with under 200 rifles--counting all our black scouts--and all + the tailors, cobblers, barbers, commissariat and orderly-room + people. We haven't a gun of any kind, nor even a single + machine-gun, and the camp itself is in a hollow commanded by + higher ground on all sides. We have another 100 or 150 rifles in + the smaller camp a mile away. Well, news came a few days ago + that a large enemy force with several Hotchkiss guns and many + Maxims was advancing on Kisigau, from which an Indian garrison + was driven some time ago. We had another small garrison at + Kisigau of 50 K.A.R.'s. The Germans have again captured the + place after killing or wounding 40 of the garrison. The + remainder made their escape. When the G.O.C. and the other + generals at Nairobi and Voi heard of this advance on Kisigau, + they thought the Germans intended making a determined attack on + the railway line, and sent 1500 troops--Rhodesians, North Lancs, + K.A.R.'s, and Indians--down to Voi to march from Maungu to + Kisigau, leaving Maktau very short of men, though they there + have plenty of guns, a mountain battery and machine-guns, and + the place is very strongly fortified. At the new station + Mashoti, between here and Maktau, only 100 men have been left, + but they have guns and machine-guns, and are in a very well + constructed camp in a very good position. If we are attacked + here by any considerable force with guns and machine-guns we can + do nothing, and shall probably all get scuppered. We were fully + expecting an attack yesterday, last night, or this morning, as + we got a message from Maktau that a large force was approaching. + The last rumour is that 10,000 men are advancing on Maktau. At + the same time, if the Germans are going to do anything worth + while, now is their chance, before the new troops get here. They + know everything about us from their Arab and native spies. Well! + if the Germans know the state of this place and do not attack + it, they will be great fools. The whole position is farcical. + This is a very important point, as if it is taken, the water + supply to Maktau and Mashoti will be cut off, and yet we have + been left with only a few rifles and not a single gun or + machine-gun to defend an immense perimeter. Well! all we can do + is to 'wait and see,' as Mr. Asquith would say. I am afraid that + the war will go on for some time yet, and thousands more of our + men will be killed before it is over. I have two young nephews + at the Front in France now and I think a third has gone to + Serbia with the Motor Transport. My eldest son Freddy will not + be eighteen till next April, but I expect he will be sent out + soon after then, as he is big and strong for his age. If he goes + out and gets killed[76] it will break his mother's heart and + mine too, if I should live to come home, and it will be the same + for you and your wife if you lose Geoff;[77] but I pray God he + will be spared to outlive this terrible war. I suppose the + Germans cannot now possibly win the war; but can the Allies + absolutely crush them before their finances are exhausted? The + war will soon probably be costing us L6,000,000 a day instead of + L5,000,000. How long can we stand that? We seem to have made + some terrible mistakes and miscalculations, especially in the + Dardanelles and the Balkans. However, like everyone else out + here, I suppose I am despondent. Perhaps the heat down here is + depressing. This place has the reputation of being very + unhealthy in the rainy season, and I fear our men will suffer + very much during the next two months. Your naval work must be + very interesting, and you must tell me all about it, if we ever + meet again. I was very sorry to hear that poor Gerald Legge[78] + had been killed. But who is going to be left alive when this war + is over? + + "Well! good-bye, old friend, and with very kind regards to Mrs. + Millais and all your family and wishing Geoff the best of good + luck, yours ever, + + FRED. + + "P.S.--I have not seen Judd yet. He was scouting down on the + German border for some months after the war broke out, but has + been on his farm near Nairobi for the last six months." + +[Illustration: A SHOT ON THE PLAINS, BRITISH EAST AFRICA.] + +The following letters from Ex-President Roosevelt in reply to letters +from Selous, describing local conditions in B.E. Africa, give some of +his views on Germany prior to the entry of America in the Great War:-- + + "OYSTER BAY, + "LONG ISLAND, N.Y., + "_April 2nd_, 1915. + + "MY DEAR SELOUS, + + "I have received your letter of February 23rd and send this to + Nairobi. I am exceedingly glad you have gone to British East + Africa. I am sorry to say that very reluctantly I have come to + the same conclusion that you have about the purposes and conduct + of Germany. The behaviour of her armies in Belgium and in the + North of France was, I think, the inevitable result of the kind + of doctrine that has been preached by those high in authority in + Germany and which was typified by the Emperor's famous advice to + his troops in China to 'behave like Huns.' A man cannot direct + soldiers to behave like Huns and then escape responsibility for + the swinish horrors that follow. From my book you have already + seen how strongly I have spoken as to the failure of the United + States and other neutrals to do their duty when the Hague + Conventions were violated. You cannot speak any more strongly + than I have spoken. + + "One genuine surprise to me was the strength that the Germans + have shown in their colonies.[79] I agree with you that the + attitude of the Boers has been one of the finest tributes + imaginable to the justice with which England has behaved in + South Africa. I have sent your letter to Kermit. It will make + him eager to be beside you under Driscoll. I most earnestly hope + that you won't be used as a transport officer. Tarlton writes me + that he was not allowed to go to the front either. I would a + good deal rather trust Tarlton and you in a fight than most of + the men who are technically entirely fit because of their youth + and physical soundness. + + "I have not the heart to write to you about ordinary things + while you are in the midst of this terrible struggle. As I have + said in an article I recently wrote, I do not believe in + neutrality between right and wrong; and I am very sorry that the + United States is not in the struggle. If there were a war, my + four boys would go, although I suppose that the two younger ones + would have to go as enlisted men; and I should ask permission to + raise a division of nine regiments of the same type as the + regiment I commanded in Cuba. They were men in whom your soul + would have delighted. They were much of the stamp of the Hills + of British East Africa--by the way, if you see them give them my + warm regards, as also to Newland and any other friends you meet. + I am delighted to hear about your son. + + "With hearty good wishes, + + "Faithfully yours, + "THEODORE ROOSEVELT." + + "_August 26th_, 1915. + + "DEAR SELOUS, + + "Your letter of July 11th has just come. I congratulate you with + all my heart. It is simply first-class to have you a fighting + officer in the fighting line, leading your men in the very work + that you are particularly and peculiarly fitted to do. I was + wholly unable to understand Lord Kitchener refusing you a + commission. It seemed to me to be an instance of following the + letter that kills instead of the spirit that gives life. The + Germans have used Von Hindenburg,[80] who was away over the + legal age-limit for generals; and he has been their best + general. There is undoubtedly a certain type of bureaucrat who + would have thought it more important to observe the rule by + keeping him at home than to have secured his leadership in + victory. Of course, I personally believe in universal military + service, and in the most rigorous application of military law + during a war. If I had control in East Africa--or in Great + Britain or the United States, for that matter!--I would make + every man do whatever was best for the nation, whether this + meant that he was to fight or to produce ammunition or to + produce coal, and I would treat the man who sought to make a + profit out of the war or who went on a strike so as to avoid + doing his duty in the war just as summarily as I would treat the + soldier who flinched in a fight. + + "I am so pleased that MacMillan is with you and is doing so well + with the commissariat. Give him my heartiest regards. I wish to + heaven Kermit and I were with you, or at least that Kermit[81] + was with you, and that I was helping in the trenches in + Flanders, where I would be of more service. + + "I send you herewith two articles I have just written in + reference to what I regard as the frightful misconduct of my own + country. The trouble is that the men at the head of our + Government are doing just exactly what the men at the head of + your Government did up to a year and a quarter ago; and they + treat the words of men like myself precisely as your men treated + Lord Roberts--I do not mean to compare myself to Lord Roberts in + this matter, but the attitude of the governmental authorities + toward him and toward me has been the same. + + "That was a first-class little fight at Bukoba. If the Germans + keep sinking boats with our citizens on them, sooner or later I + cannot help thinking our citizens as a whole will themselves + insist on fighting. The professional pacifists have done this + country a damage that cannot be over-stated. If you come through + all right and if, in the event of war, I come through all right, + I shall look forward eagerly to seeing you when the war is over + and asking for more details about what you tell me concerning + the attitude of so many people in British East Africa and in + Nairobi, for I am immensely puzzled over it. Pray present my + warmest regards to MacMillan and my hearty congratulations as + well, and also present my respects and congratulations to + Colonel Driscoll." + +Writing at an earlier date (December 4th, 1914), Roosevelt in his usual +vigorous style thus expresses his estimate of German policy:-- + + "I don't wonder that you feel a little bit concerned about the + war. Moreover, I am not certain that the theory that France and + England are to act as anvil and Russia as hammer will work out. + It looks to me as if, unit for unit, the Russians had shown a + marked inferiority to the Germans, French, and English. They + have enormous numbers and great endurance, and these may become + decisive factors in the end. I do hope that your army will + increase in numbers, however, to the point of being able to + become formidable as an offensive factor. + + "I have a great admiration and respect for the Germans. I wish + to heavens that this country would wake up to the hideous + damage, moral and physical, caused by the deification of mere + industrialism, of softness and of self-indulgence. National + acceptance of the need of hard labour, of facing risk, and of + the exercise of foresight is necessary to national greatness. If + I must choose between a policy of blood and iron and one of milk + and water--especially of skimmed milk and dishwater--why I am + for the policy of blood and iron. It is better not only for the + nation, but in the end for the world. But my admiration for the + Germans does not blind me to the fact that for the last fifty + years their development along the lines of policy advocated by + Frederick the Great and Bismarck, and so enthusiastically + championed by Carlyle, has resulted in their becoming a very + grave menace to every nation with which they are brought in + contact. I immensely admire German industrial, social, and + military efficiency; but I abhor the kind of militarism which + has resulted in such cynical contempt for international morality + and such appalling ruthlessness in war. I think it folly for a + man not to admire the German efficiency; and utter weakness for + him not to realize that that efficiency may be used against his + own nation and take steps accordingly. I wish I were in the war + myself!" + +The authorities at home at last resolved to take the East African +campaign into their own hands, and in January appointed General Smuts to +the command and gave him adequate forces with which to make an advance +into German East Africa. Selous' letter to me, February 25th, 1916, +brings his narrative up to date. + + "MY DEAR JOHNNY, + + "After a long interval we got a mail here yesterday, and it + brought me your letter of January 5th. This is the second + letter I have received from you, so I think I must have missed + one, and it may have gone down in the ill-fated 'Persia,' which + had mails for East Africa on board. I have not much news to give + you, nor much time to write it, as we are now just getting ready + for a move forward. After over five months of hard grinding work + in the very hot sun, guarding the line from Voi to near Mombasa, + and from Voi to Maktau, on the way to Taveta, and many patrols + without any kind of shelter all through the heavy rains of + December and January, we were sent up to Kajiado on the Magadi + railway, and then on here about a fortnight ago. We are now + camped just over the German border, and go on to Longido, 18 + miles ahead, very shortly. You will have seen in the papers that + General Smith-Dorrien was taken ill in South Africa, and that + General Smuts has taken his place as G.O.C. out here. He will, I + think, commence the offensive against the Germans immediately, + but _if_ the Germans have the forces they are said to have, and + _if_ all their native troops remain loyal to them, we shall have + a devil of a job. I hear that General Smuts, who arrived in the + country a week ago, and has already been to Longido by + motor-car, fully realizes that this affair will be a much more + difficult business than the South-West Africa campaign. There + the Germans had no native troops, and Botha had ten men for + every man the Germans could muster. Then the country in German + S.W. Africa was much easier to work in than this dense tropical + bush, which lends itself at every yard to ambushes and is + everywhere very much in favour of the defending forces. Water is + a great difficulty here, too, and the greater part of German + East Africa between our border and the Dar-es-Salaam, Tanganyika + railway, except round Kilimanjaro and other high mountains, + seems to be very waterless. There is only one permanent water + between Kajiado and this camp, over 50 miles, and the transport + animals have to do a trek of over 30 miles without water. + However, we have this year had no dry season, for since it + commenced to rain in November, it has been raining off and on + ever since, not sufficiently to fill the water-holes, but quite + enough to make things very uncomfortable, and to keep the grass + growing, which I am afraid is all in favour of the Germans, as + it makes good cover for their ambushes everywhere. The German + officers out here seem to be very fine soldiers, and what people + do not realize, their black troops are not only as brave as any + Zulus, but splendidly led and well armed and supported with any + number of machine-guns. No better men could be found in the + whole world, and personally, in this bush-covered, overgrown, + but still hot and waterless country, I would much sooner have to + fight against Germans from the Fatherland than these + well-trained and elusive blacks. If we could only gain some + success a lot of them might desert. But all the successes have + been on their side up to now (except at Bukoba), and they must + be full of confidence. A fortnight ago, just before General + Smuts reached this country, an attack was launched against a + German position not far from Taveta, by three regiments of South + Africans, supported by a regiment of Baluchis and some + Rhodesians. The situation was only saved from complete disaster + by the Baluchis and the Rhodesians. I enclose a reference to the + affair in the Nairobi paper, but it has been very unfortunate, + and is a very bad beginning to the new campaign now opening, as + it will keep the German black troops loyal to their masters, and + fill them with renewed confidence. Smuts' generalship may prove + superior to all the difficulties he will have to contend with, + but I expect he now realizes that he is up against a much more + difficult proposition than he had expected. When we advance from + our most forward base--Longido--we are not to carry any kind of + tents or shelter from the weather, and as the heavy rains now + seem to be setting in (we are having heavy thunder-storms with + soaking rain now every day or night) we are likely to have a + very bad time, and most of us who are still fit will be sure to + go down with fever or dysentery, as the heavy rains may last all + through March, April, May, and June. Well! the future is on the + knees of the gods, and we must take the luck they send us. + Lately we have been practising attacks on positions, advancing + in bush formation under General Sheppard, an awfully nice man, + who I think will command the brigade to which we are attached. I + am now in command of A Company of the 25th Fusiliers, and in all + our manoeuvres A and B Companies have to lead the advance, so I + expect we shall have to do the same when it comes to actually + attacking any German position. When we landed at Mombasa on May + 4th last our battalion was nearly 1100 strong and there were 273 + men in A Company. Now we have lost more than half our officers, + and have not more than 400 men fit to march and fight. This is + the effect of the climate. In A Company we can muster about 100 + fit men, and three officers (myself and two men raised from the + ranks). Well! I hope that this accursed war will be over by next + August, and I think it will, as by that time Germany will surely + be exhausted, as well as some of the Allies. By April, I see it + is stated, that the war will be costing us L6,000,000 a day. How + long can we stand that? What I cannot understand is, where are + our armies of millions of men, and all the stores of munitions + we are making and buying from America. We are said to have now + 5,000,000 of men well armed and equipped, and yet we do not + appear to have more than 1,000,000 in France and Flanders, nor + more than 500,000 in Salonika and Egypt together. In Mesopotamia + and East Africa, we have only a few hundreds of British troops, + all the rest being Indians and South Africans. Well! I hope I + shall live through this show, and come home again, as I want to + see my wife again, and watch my boys' careers. I believe that + Freddy will pass out of Sandhurst this month. I was very pleased + to hear that all is so far going well with you and yours. May + your boys be spared to you and their mother whatever happens. + With very kind regards to all of you." + + "OLD MOSCHI, + "ON THE SLOPES OF KILIMANJARO, + "_May 2nd_, 1916. + + "MY DEAR JOHNNY, + + "It is a long time now since I last heard from you, but I trust + that all is still going well with you and yours. On the day + after to-morrow we shall have been a whole solid year out here, + as we landed at Mombasa on May 4th, 1915. Of that year we have + been over six months in the low unhealthy bush-country, doing + heavy marches in the hottest hours of the day, and lying out on + patrols with no shelter or protection whatever from the weather, + all through the heavy rains of December and January last. As I + never had any fever, diarrhoea or dysentery, but was always + well, I did more of this patrol work than any other officer in + our battalion, and it meant long marches too, sometimes + following small parties of Germans trying to blow up the Uganda + railway. In common with all the other white troops serving on + foot out here, our battalion has suffered terribly from the + climate, and is now almost quite used up. The Loyal North Lancs + regiment has been out here eighteen months; but they have had + two strong drafts from home to make good their losses. However, + they have now been sent or are just about to go to Wynberg, near + Cape Town, to recruit, and from there will probably be sent + home. Four of our officers and a lot of our men have also been + sent there. The Rhodesian regiment which first came out here has + also suffered very badly from the climate, and has now been sent + to the escarpment near Nairobi to recruit. The South African + troops which have only just come out here are also suffering a + lot from fever and dysentery, and Van Deventer is said to have + lost about 1400 horses (from horse-sickness) out of the 2000 he + had six weeks ago. The condition of our battalion is simply + lamentable. When we came up from the low country at the end of + February to Kajiado (5800 feet above sea-level) Colonel Driscoll + tried to collect all his men from the various hospitals and + convalescent homes in the country. We had landed at Mombasa on + May 4th, 1915, with 1127 rifles, and we mustered at Kajiado + about 700 on February 1st, 1916; but of these many were no + longer of any use for marching in the hot sun. From Kajiado we + went to Longido, and were incorporated with Colonel Stewart's + Brigade, which had to march right round Kilimanjaro, and meet + General Smuts' much larger force at Moschi. As far as our + Brigade was concerned only 449 of the 691 who had left Kajiado + were found to be fit enough for the heavy marching in front of + us. Starting from Longido late in the morning of March 5th, we + marched 9 miles under a very hot sun to Sheep Hill. There was + there no shelter from the sun, and we passed a very unpleasant + day. We were told to rest and sleep, as we had a long + night-march of 20 miles before us. We marched all night long + except from 12 to 2 a.m., and did not get to the water until + after midday the next day, and the distance registered in + General Stewart's motor-car was 30 miles instead of 20. We had + other very long marches in the very hot sun, in choking clouds + of fine lava-dust, churned up by the heavy transport. The + Germans had prepared to dispute our advance along the main road + from Longido to New Moschi, which passes N'gara Nairobi. But + under the guidance of a Boer settler in German East Africa, + named Pretorius, we left the road soon after leaving Sheep Hill + and travelled across country to Boma N'gombi, 15 miles from New + Moschi (the railway terminus), on the road to Aruscha. The + Germans, whose main forces were trying to hold back Smuts' big + columns advancing on Taveta, apparently had not sufficient + forces to come out and attack General Stewart's column, so we + got through with nothing more than a little sniping. Arrived at + Boma N'gombi, we got into communication with General Smuts + through our wireless, and General Stewart was ordered to send a + picked force by a forced march to join up with one of his forces + at Masai Kraal, and then advance together to New Moschi. About + half of our 449 men (many of whom were now badly knocked up) + were considered fit for this advance and I led 55 men of my A + Company, the 55 fittest men of the 282 of A Company who had + stepped ashore at Mombasa less than a year before. The night we + left Boma N'gombi heavy rain came on and we marched in rain and + mud and pitch darkness for many miles along an old abandoned + waggon-road. Before daylight we joined up with some mounted + scouts, who informed us that the Germans had evacuated New + Moschi and gone off down the railway, and that South African + troops had occupied both New Moschi and Old Moschi (where I am + now writing on the slopes of Kilimanjaro and six miles by road + from New Moschi in the plain below us). The day after we got to + New Moschi, we were sent off with part of General Stewart's + Brigade, under Colonel (now Brigadier-General Sheppard) to + co-operate with the S. African forces against the Germans, who + had retired from Taveta towards the Ruwu river. A night march of + 16 miles brought us to Newi Hill on the road to Taveta, and + after a march of a few miles the next afternoon we got in touch + with the E.A.M.R., and shortly afterwards a few German snipers. + We pushed them back and then entrenched as well as we could. + That night they sniped us a bit, but did no harm. The bush was + very thick all round our camp, but it was nearly full moon. We + heard the attack on one of the S.A. Brigades to our left, and + also the heavy German gun (a 4.1 naval gun from the + 'Koenigsberg') firing both at this brigade and at Van Deventer's + Brigade, which had advanced down the railway line from New + Moschi to Kahi station. These brigades, I believe, ought to have + got in touch with us, but they did not do so. During March 20th + we improved our trenches and prepared for a night attack, which + in fact started at 8.45 and was kept up till 1 a.m. The black + troops, under German officers, behaved very pluckily, and time + after time answered the bugle call to advance on our camp. Our + Maxims kept them off. Fortunately they had no machine-guns with + them, and though they fired thousands of shots at our camp they + did very little damage, as almost all the bullets went pinging + over us. Soon after 1 a.m. we heard their bugle sounding the + 'assemble' and they drew off. In the morning the dead just in + front of our machine-gun commanding the road were collected and + laid out in a row--like pheasants or hares after a drive--but + the bush was not searched for the rest of the dead, as we had to + push on and attack the Germans who were entrenched across the + road a few miles on ahead on the Soko river. They held us off + all day, and we had about 200 casualties, as the South African + Brigades on our right and left which were to have enveloped them + could not or did not come up. The men of our battalion (about 50 + of each of our 4 companies) were in reserve, but late in the + afternoon A, C, and D Companies had to go forward to support an + Indian regiment. I was in command of my 50 men of A Company. We + really could do nothing but lie very flat, trying to dig + ourselves in with bayonets and fingers, being under the sweeping + fire of three or four machine-guns. The lie of the ground just + saved us when lying flat, and the bullets just swept over us in + bouquets. We only had 17 casualties, and only 2 men killed dead. + So far our battalion has not had much fighting, but we have gone + through much hardship, fatigue, and exposure. You will wonder + how I have stood it all at my age. But the fact remains that + from May 4th, 1915, to February 6th, 1916, I never took leave or + a day's rest, and was never a single day off duty or away from + my company. From February 6th to the 12th I had to lie up, as I + had jiggers in one of my toes, and the inflammation went to my + groin. Since then I have never been a day away from my company + again up till to-day, and have never put my leg over a horse, + but done all the marching with the men, carrying my rifle, 50 or + 60 rounds of ammunition, water-bottle, glasses and haversack + with food--at least 20 lbs. altogether. But the men have usually + had to carry 150 rounds of ammunition. Still, considering that I + shall be sixty-five at the end of this year I have stuck it out + remarkably well, and am one of the very few in the battalion who + has never yet had a day's illness, for inflammation caused by + jiggers cannot be called illness. But now I am beginning to be + troubled with haemorrhoids and another trouble. I have kept this + in check out here for a whole year with astringent ointment, but + during the last month it has got much worse and it may oblige me + to come home on leave for an operation. The wet and damp of the + last month here may have had something to do with the + aggravation of my trouble. + + "General Smuts was very lucky. He was just given time to carry + out his operations round Kilimanjaro and drove the Germans down + the line towards Tanga before the rain set in. We have been up + here (about 300 men, of whom 100 have been in hospital and a lot + more ill in camp, as the hospital is full) for nearly a month + and it has rained almost day and night all the time, and we + have lived in a sea of vile sticky mud. One of our officers as + near as possible died of dysentery, but he is now much better. + We--both officers and men--have had nothing but bare army + rations since leaving Longido on March 5th last. However, we are + now leaving this place, and going to M'buyuni, near Maktau, on + the Voi-Taveta Railway, as the railway is now through to New + Moschi--but from Taveta to Moschi it is very uncertain, as the + heavy rains keep washing parts of the line away. The Germans + blew up their naval 4.1 gun at the Ruwu river after firing all + the 70 rounds at our camp and the two S.A. Brigades. They put + the shells very close to our camp but did not hit it, but they + dropped one amongst Van Deventer's men and killed five or six + men and horses. After the fighting at the Soko and round Kahe on + March 20th and 21st, the Germans retired down the Tanga Railway, + and are said to be entrenching at various places. Nothing + further can be done on our side until the rains are over, as all + transport of a railway line is now almost impossible. Horses, + mules, and men are all suffering terribly from the climate, and + diseases of man and beast, and the frightful thick bush will + help the Germans very much if they intend to fight on till the + bitter end. Van Deventer has had a fresh lot of horses sent to + him, and is now near the main German Railway from Dar-es-Salaam + to Lake Tanganyika. The Belgians ought, too, soon to be + co-operating from the Congo. We have just got the terribly bad + news of General Townshend's surrender to the Turks in + Mesopotamia, and the outbreak in Ireland. My son Freddy passed + out of Sandhurst on April 6th and is, I expect, now attached to + the Royal West Surrey regiment. The Commandant at Sandhurst has + written to my wife speaking in very high terms of praise about + him; but, alas, I may never see him alive again if this accursed + war goes on much longer. And you and poor Mrs. Millais must now + be most anxious about your eldest boy too. Well! of course their + country comes first for them and for us, and we must all try and + do our duty, but it will break our wives' hearts if either of + them loses her boy, and it will take all the joy of life out of + us too. Well! I have written you an unconscionably long + letter, but it has hardly ever stopped raining now for more than + an hour or so at a time for two days and nights, and we are + enveloped in thick mist, and there is nothing to do but read and + write. The weather gets worse and worse, that is the rain gets + more incessant. Everything is saturated with moisture, and my + blankets seem quite wet when I get into them at night. It is the + constant unending wet and damp I think that gets to the men's + stomachs and bowels and gives them dysentery. The slopes of + Kilimanjaro may be a health resort in the dry season, but they + are not much of a place to live in during the heavy rains. And + the natives say that the rains will go on until the middle or + end of June. Well! once more good-bye, old fellow, and with very + kind regards to Mrs. Millais and your children, and trusting + that all is well with all of them." + +[Illustration: FARU! FARU!] + + "_May 4th_, 1916. + + "To-day is the anniversary of our landing at Mombasa on May 4th, + 1915. Since writing to you two days ago I have seen a good + doctor, as my trouble with piles is getting bad. He says I must + have an operation soon, as if I went on long hard marches now I + might get into a state which would require an immediate + operation or serious consequences to me might happen. He advises + me strongly to go home and have the operation there, as he does + not think there is a really skilful surgeon out here. In all + probability, therefore, as soon as I get to the big camp at + M'buyuni, I shall be again examined, and a board of medical men + will recommend that I shall be given three months' leave of + absence to go home and have this operation, so I may be home + almost as soon as this letter. Really it does not much matter, + as our battalion is played out, used up, and they will probably + not find more than 300 men fit for duty, and these only fit for + garrison-duty on the lines of communication. The forward + movements to the Dar-es-Salaam line will I think be carried out + by Smuts' mounted forces and his 1000 motor bicyclists and + armoured motors, as soon as the rains are over and the country + becomes possible for transport. During the rains I believe the + railway will be pushed on from New Moschi towards the main + German railway line. Well! good-bye again." + +In June, 1916, after an examination by a medical board, Selous came home +to undergo an operation which was completely successful. He was only ill +for twelve days and then went to his home for a short rest. In August he +went out again with a draft to East Africa, going via the Cape. + +Both at the time Selous served with them and during his short absence, +the sufferings and difficulties of our troops in this bush fighting +under tropical rains and intense heat were such as to try the nerves of +the strongest troops. Colonel Driscoll, who commanded the battalion of +Frontiersmen, gives a vivid picture ("The Weekly Dispatch," July 21st, +1918) of the sufferings endured by the men who were so unfortunate as to +be wounded. + + "It's very different when you get down to the plains and the + bush. I don't think any words could describe that. A vast and + almost impenetrable forest so thick that when an aeroplane goes + up the observer sees nothing but a great green carpet below him. + And wild animals, mind you, as well as wild devils to fight; the + sun burning your very flesh; the flies intolerable. + + "Imagine a camp at night under these conditions. Round and about + the lions are roaring from hunger. Hyenas prowl in the hope of + snapping up a sentry or leaping in and carrying off a wounded + man. I have known a man with a temperature of 105 Fahrenheit + stagger up in the morning and insist upon continuing the march. + It was the old spirit of my Scouts ever unquenchable. + + "The natives--the old natives, as I have said--were always on + our side. What would have happened to us if they had not hated + the German like the devil I cannot tell you. But they followed + us through the bush, often for miles, brought us food and + attached themselves to us as servants, who were quite ready to + carry rifles upon occasion. This was very helpful, for sometimes + at night, when the force was absolutely without provisions, we + had to send men scouting in native villages, and they could + easily have been betrayed. Nothing would have been easier for a + treacherous native than to have sneaked out while two or three + of our men were in his hut and to have warned the nearest camp + of Askaris. It never happened. The loathing of the Blonde Beast + was too universal. + + "All this sounds bad enough, but believe me, it gives you but a + poor account of what it cost us to win 'German East.'" + +FOOTNOTES: + +[66] The Kob of Western Bahr-el-Ghazal has whitish ears and a white area +round the eye, which is not found in the Uganda Kob. It has been named +by Dr. Heller, Vaughan's Kob, from a single specimen. + +[67] As a matter of fact his proposition was a heavier one than the +authorities imagined. It took a large army, working hard over a period +of four years, before the Germans were driven out of British and German +East Africa. + +[68] This was hardly the fault of the War Office, who had already +organized their local intelligence officers in East Africa. + +[69] Note by Col. R. Meinertzhagen, Chief of Intelligence Department:-- + +"This landing was really a very fine piece of work for troops who had +had no previous experience. The Germans themselves, which we learnt +later, thought that a landing at that particular spot was an impossible +operation, and therefore failed to guard against it. The rapidity with +which the Fusiliers got ashore and up a steep bush-clad escarpment gave +the enemy no time to meet it. This initial success, which was intended +as a covering movement for the main landing, was largely responsible for +the capture of Bukoba." + +[70] In two authenticated cases a .600 Rigby cordite rifle and a Holland +.375 were used in each case with sporting ammunition. + +[71] 75 millimetres or 3 inch (R. Meinertzhagen). + +[72] "I slept under a rock near Selous that night. He was full of +enthusiasm, and we discussed 'birds' till far into the night, getting +drenched through with the dew and badly bitten by mosquitoes" (R. +Meinertzhagen). + +[73] On the best authority the Germans had 2500 white troops and 4200 +askaris at the beginning of the War. During the War they raised their +black troops and police to from 12,000 to 18,000. + +[74] "Dartnell was awarded the V.C. posthumously for gallantry, when +wounded preferring to stop behind with his men, when he could have been +evacuated. The enemy on returning to the scene of the fight where +Dartnell had been left with the wounded, commenced to kill them, and +Dartnell fought to the last, trying to protect his men." (R. +Meinertzhagen, Col.). + +[75] The Indian Government were not to blame. They had sent all their +best troops to France and had to keep large reserves in India for +possible contingencies, so that the troops they sent to East Africa were +not of the best quality. + +[76] Capt. Freddy Selous, M.C., R.A.F.C., killed in action, January 4th, +1918. + +[77] Capt. G. de C. Millais, Bedfordshire Regiment, killed in action, +August 22nd, 1918. + +[78] Capt. the Hon. Gerald Legge, second son of the Earl of Dartmouth, +killed in action in Gallipoli, August, 1915; an excellent naturalist and +a great friend of ours. + +[79] "The German strength was not so much (at any rate in East Africa) +their numbers, but their efficiency, and the fact that they were +prepared and we were not. They also scored heavily by being able to +draft into their black ranks ten per cent of trained white soldiers who +were settlers and business men in peace time. We had no such asset. +Moreover, the German superiority of machine-guns, 2 to every 100 men, +outweighed our 2 to 800 men!" (R. Meinertzhagen, Col.) + +[80] "Hindenburg has been a mere figure-head and idol of the people. +Ludendorff is the brain of the German Army and real conducting head" (R. +Meinertzhagen, Col.). + +[81] In 1917, Kermit Roosevelt joined our forces in Mesopotamia. Since +this date Roosevelt's three other sons have joined the American troops, +and two have distinguished themselves as soldiers. Lieut. Quentin +Roosevelt was killed in action in France in July, 1918. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV +SEPTEMBER, 1916-1917 + + +Selous left England on his last journey on August 10th, 1916, and landed +at Mombasa (via the Cape) in September with a draft of 400 new recruits +for the 25th Royal Fusiliers. First he went up the Uganda railway to +Nairobi, and later to Korogwe in the Usambara valley, and after resting +here a week or two brought his detachment on to Tanga in September, +where he was detained for nearly eight weeks. He remained at Tanga until +December 2nd, until his force moved up to Dar-es-Salaam to take part in +a fresh movement against the Germans. + +The campaign in German East Africa had now entered on its most difficult +period. Owing to the enormous wastage in men and horses, transport of +all kinds was most difficult and in some cases impossible during the +rainy season. Writing from Tanga on November 11th, 1916, to Chapman, he +says:-- + + "The war has now entered upon a very difficult phase. As von + Lettow-Vorbeck--a very able and determined man--the German + commander, has been allowed to escape with considerable forces + well equipped with machine-guns, into the wilderness towards the + Portuguese border. We hold all the ports, all the towns, + plantations, etc., and both the railway lines--but von Lettow + still commands a force, it is thought, of over 1000 whites and + several thousand trained black troops, well found in arms and + ammunition. The wastage from fever and dysentery has been + terrible, and, as the heavy rains will come on, where the + Germans are, very shortly now, if Smuts cannot round them up + quickly it will be impossible to continue this campaign for + months. He is busy repairing roads and railways and getting up + supplies to near the Front, and we are expecting to get forward + again at any moment. With the latest drafts our battalion has + had 1400 men out here. All we have left of them are 149 at + Kijabe (but these must mostly be unfit for further hard service) + and 394 here, of which latter number 101 are sick. Two have died + in hospital this week. Of the two fine Rhodesian regiments, it + is said that only 68 are fit. The North Lancs Regt. has wasted + to nothing, in spite of many drafts. The position is now most + difficult, and unless a decision can quickly be arrived at, this + campaign may drag on for months and have to be finished by black + troops, as another month in a heavy rainy season, without + shelter and short rations, will lay out all the white troops + still left. + + "F. C. S." + + "During the period March-September, 1916, General Smuts captured + the region from Kilimanjaro to Dar-es-Salaam, whilst the + Belgians gradually occupied the western part of German East + Africa, from the Great Lakes to Tabora, and General Northey the + south-west part of the country. The Germans were thus restricted + to the south, the south-centre and south-eastern regions, except + the actual coast-line. + + "After evacuating Tabora the German troops in that region, who + were under General Wahle, retired south-east towards Mahenge, a + government station on a high plateau centrally situated between + the northern end of Lake Nyasa and the sea at Kilwa. Part of the + enemy force which had opposed General Smuts also retreated to + Mahenge, its commanding officer being Major Kraut. In its + retreat General Wahle's force harried, and was harried by, + General Northey's columns. Wahle broke through the British lines + and joined Kraut, who was being threatened from the north by + General Van Deventer, the commander of General Smuts' Second + Division. In the closing days of 1916 and the beginning of 1917 + a combined effort was made by Generals Van Deventer and Northey + to 'round up' the Germans holding the Mahenge plateau. The + movement promised success, but, in the words of General Smuts, + the enemy 'eventually escaped through the dense bush and forest + under cover of darkness, and eluded pursuit.' + + "Meantime the main enemy force, under Colonel von + Lettow-Vorbeck, upon whom the Kaiser in November, 1916, + conferred the Ordre Pour le Merite, had been driven by General + Smuts to the region of the Rufigi, south of Dar-es-Salaam. At + this period General Smuts reorganized his forces, and, in view + of the extremely unhealthy character of the country in which + further operations were to be conducted, as many as possible of + the white troops from South Africa were sent home, over 12,000 + leaving East Africa between the middle of October and the end of + December, 1916. They were replaced by newly raised battalions of + King's African Rifles and by a Nigerian Brigade under General + Cunliffe. On January 1, 1917, General Smuts began a new + offensive in the Rufigi area, his object being to cut all + connection between the enemy in the Rufigi and Mahenge regions + and either to envelop the enemy on the Rufigi or to deal a heavy + blow as he escaped south. The last object was accomplished; a + heavy blow was inflicted upon von Lettow-Vorbeck's force, but it + was not brought to a decisive engagement. This brief campaign + was ended in March by the advent of the rainy season. While it + was in progress General Smuts was summoned to England to + represent South Africa in the special sittings of the War + Cabinet. He relinquished his command on January 20, 1917, being + succeeded by Major-General A. R. Hoskins, C.M.G., D.S.O., who + had previously commanded the First Division."--"The Times + History and Encyclopaedia of the War," the campaign in German + East Africa (III), pp. 397-398. + +On December 8th, the Royal Fusiliers went in open trucks by rail to +Mikesse, near Morogoro, and from thence had a very trying eight days' +march to Kissaki. During this and previous marches Selous never rode a +yard of the way, but marched like his men, living on their rough fare +and enduring the constant rain and soaking bivouacs with stoical +indifference. On December 15th he writes to his wife from Tulo:-- + + "We are now marching to Kissaki, and from there will probably + advance and attack the Germans on the Rufigi river. Very heavy + rains have now set in, and we have had rather a bad time of it, + and our detachment has shrunk from 384 to 170, with which we + march to-day. We hear the bridge over the Rufigi river has been + washed away by the floods and the German forces cut in two." + +One of his last letters, written on Christmas Day, 1916, from Kissaki, +states:-- + + "We are on the eve of an attack on the Germans out here. Their + lines here are quite close to ours, our forces are gathering, + and we shall now attack their lines in several places + simultaneously in a few days. Our forces are terribly depleted + principally from sickness. The German forces are sure to be + entrenching, and as they still have a number of machine-guns, it + may be no child's play attacking their positions, and we may + meet with heavy losses." + +During the last three weeks of 1916, General Smuts (except for Van +Deventer's Division) had not been engaged in important operations but +was busy reorganizing his columns. Von Lettow-Vorbeck was, however, +forced out of Kissaki on September 15th, by the brigade under Brits and +Nussey. He then took up his position between the Ingeta and Rufigi +rivers, where he remained until January 1st, when General Smuts began +another offensive from Kissaki. + +An attack was made on the German positions by General Smuts on January +2nd, but the enemy again escaped and took up a fresh position in dense +bush on the Beho-Beho ridge. All January 2nd and 3rd General Smuts spent +in developing a new encircling movement of which the following is the +"Times" History account:-- + + "The troops, which had to march through most difficult country, + got in touch with the enemy again on the afternoon of the 3rd, + and at 10.30 a.m. on January 4th Sheppard's Brigade caught up + the chief enemy force as it was retiring from Beho-Beho. A sharp + engagement followed, but though severely handled the enemy + 'again slipped past,' to use General Smuts' phrase. The brunt of + the action was borne by the 25th Royal Fusiliers (the Legion of + Frontiersmen). During the fight Captain F. C. Selous fell at the + head of his company. He was buried under the shadow of a + tamarind tree, beside the graves of members of his company who + fell at the same time. Thus ended the life of the most + distinguished of the hunter-naturalists of recent years, the man + who had opened up thousands of miles of South Central Africa. + Throughout the campaign, though well over sixty, he had set an + example of endurance and devotion to duty unexcelled by any + member of the force. As stated in Chapter CLXXXIII, he had + already been given the D.S.O. in recognition of his services. + None knew better than Selous the dangers and difficulties of the + campaign. Writing home from Tanga in November, 1916, he set + forth some of these difficulties, adding: 'I shall try and hold + out to the end, if possible, or, at any rate, as long as my + health and strength last. General Smuts is now working ... for + the next forward movement, and when he is ready the remnants of + my battalion will join him.'" + +General J. Smuts, who was in command of the British Forces in German +East Africa, has kindly given me the following account of the fight at +Beho-Beho, Sugar Mountain, on January 4th, 1917, when Selous met his +death. General Smuts, with the aid of a large-scale map, personally +explained to me the feature of the operations on that day, and though it +was instrumental in driving the enemy from their positions, causing them +to retreat to the Rufigi river, it did not result in the capture of the +enemy's force, which it was hoped would be the case. + + "Our force moved out from Kissaki early on the morning of + January 4th, 1917, with the object of attacking and surrounding + a considerable number of German troops which was encamped along + the low hills east of Beho-Beho (Sugar Mountain) N.E. of the + road that led from Kissaki S.E. to the Rufigi river, distant + some 13 miles from the enemy's position. The low hills occupied + by the Germans were densely covered with thorn-bush and the + visibility to the west was not good. Nevertheless, they soon + realized the danger of their position when they detected a + circling movement on the part of the 25th Royal Fusiliers, which + had been detailed to stop them on the road leading S.E., the + only road, in fact, by which they could retreat. They must have + retired early, for their forces came to this point at the exact + moment when the leading company of Fusiliers, under Captain + Selous, reached the same point. Heavy firing on both sides then + commenced, and Selous at once deployed his company, attacked the + Germans, which greatly outnumbered him, and drove them back into + the bush. It was at this moment that Selous was struck dead by a + shot in the head. The Germans retreated in the dense bush again, + and the Fusiliers failed to come to close quarters, or the enemy + then made a circuit through the bush and reached the road lower + down, eventually crossing the Rufigi." + +When he came to the road, Selous and his company met the German advanced +guard, which probably outnumbered his force five to one. He had, +however, received his orders to prevent, if possible, the enemy from +reaching the road and retreating, so he immediately extended his company +and himself went forward to reconnoitre. It was whilst using his glasses +to ascertain the position of the enemy's advance guard that Selous +received a bullet in his head and was killed instantly.[82] + +Thus died Frederick Selous of the Great Heart, a splendid Englishman, +who in spite of age and love of life, gave up all pleasant things to +follow the iron path of duty. To him his country's needs were ever +before his private interests. Like the voyageurs of old he was ever +looking for some far-off country where his restless soul could sleep in +peace. Let us hope that he found his Valhalla on that day. + +He sleeps with other gallant comrades who fell beside him in the heart +of Africa, far from home and loved ones. Yet it seems fitting that he +should lie at last in the land of his dreams, where he laboured so much, +and where his name will never be forgotten. No sculptured mausoleum +records his prowess, but only a simple wooden cross bearing his name and +that of his good comrades stands beneath the shade of a tamarind tree in +the woody forest, where the bush-cuckoo heralds the dawn and the lion +roars his requiem to the night. + + "Under the wide and starry sky, + Dig the grave and let me lie. + Glad did I live and gladly die, + And I laid me down with a will. + This be the verse you grave for me; + _Here he lies where he longed to be._ + Home is the sailor, home from the sea, + And the hunter home from the hill." + +I am indebted to Captain R. M. Haines of the South African Forces for +the following account of Selous' life from the time he landed at Mombasa +till his death:-- + + "I did not actually bury Captain Selous, but I was present at + his funeral. I think I had better give you his doings from about + the end of August. He came out for the second time about the end + of August, 1916, and landed at Mombasa (via the Cape) with a + draft of about 400 new men for the 25th R. Fusiliers. He took + these up the Uganda Railway to a small detail camp called + Korogwe, in the Usambara Valley. After waiting there for a week + or two, he brought the draft to Tanga, when to his intense + disgust he was held up for nearly eight weeks. In the meantime + the original part of the regiment was trekking down the centre + of the country towards the German Central Railway. Whilst at + Tanga, he lived in a house with Captain MacMillan, whom you + probably know. It was here that he heard he had been awarded the + D.S.O. Whilst we were waiting here, he frequently gave the men + lectures on his early life in South Africa, to their intense + delight. Here I first met him. He was literally adored by the + men. From a boy he had always been a hero of mine, and to my + great joy I actually met him. He wore a double Terai grey slouch + hat, slightly on the back of his head. Khaki knickerbockers, + with no puttees, bare legs, except for his socks, and shirt open + at the neck, with a knotted handkerchief round the neck to keep + the sun off, with a long native stick in his hand. He had a + rooted objection to wearing a cork helmet. It is impossible to + forget the impression he made. He was as straight as a + guardsman, with a broad deep chest, with a beautiful healthy + look in his face. + + "We left Tanga, on board an armed merchantman, at the end of + November, and after calling in at Zanzibar for a few hours, + arrived at Dar-es-Salaam. At Zanzibar I went ashore with him and + had breakfast at the English club. We were landed at + Dar-es-Salaam at about 10.30 at night and went into the local + detail camp. He remained there about a week and was then sent up + to take up the draft he had brought out to Kissaki, which is + about 100 miles south of the German Central Railway, where the + rest of the regiment was waiting. + + (Here I went down with fever, and so had to stay behind for two + weeks.) + + "He went by train to Mikessi, about 150 miles up the Central + Railway, and from there started with his draft of 400 men to + reach the regiment. He reached Kissaki in a fortnight. This is + practically the last point where any life exists, except game, + in this part of the country. In many ways it is terrible + country; there are no names, save such names as we gave it, no + roads. It is covered with thick elephant-grass, six to eight + feet high, and very thick thorn-bush and swamp. Although I was + one of them, I honestly think that the sufferings of the troops + in this horrible trek have hardly been exceeded by any in the + war. There was only filthy water, we marched on half-rations, + with no bread at all, only flour being issued and occasionally + biscuit. The whole country was poisonous with fever and + 'blackwater'; hardly any natives live here, as it is too + poisonous. Most of the men went sick and died like flies. It was + just south of Kissaki he caught the regiment up. He was just as + cheerful as a schoolboy. + + "The day he was killed, I passed him in the morning with his + company, I was driving an armoured machine-gun, as the driver + was ill. As I passed him, I shouted out, 'I shall be back and + have _tea_ with you to-day, sir,' for we used to joke him about + his habit of drinking tea with every meal. + + "That was the last I saw of him. There was some fighting in the + bush during the day, and when I came back in the afternoon I was + greeted with the news of his death. I was just in time to see + him buried. He was sewn up in a blanket, and buried with five + other men of the R. Fusiliers. I was told he was first wounded + in the right arm, which was broken, but was bandaged up, and he + remained with his company.[83] + + "A little later he was again hit in the mouth and was killed + instantaneously and apparently painlessly. + + "A little space was cleared in the bush and he was buried, at + one of the most impressive services I have ever attended, the + same day in the afternoon. I intended to photograph the spot, + but next day I went down with a bad attack of blackwater fever, + and the next few weeks are a complete blank to me. My memory is + still somewhat out of gear. My diary and camera were missing + when I came round, and so all my exact records are going to some + scamp. He is buried about 60 miles south of Kissaki, in a + nameless spot, but if you will wait a month or two I may yet be + able to get you some photographs and further details. + + "As I said before, he was always my hero as a boy in books, and + he remains so now. He had all that simplicity and modesty of + great men. He was the easiest of all men to cheat, but yet no + one ever dared to do it. He was a moral antiseptic in a country + where men are not saints. Anything mean or sordid literally + shrivelled up in his presence. + + "Although I am a young man, my fate has led me to travel in all + our white colonies, and I can honestly say that of all the men I + have met, good or bad (and they have been mostly good), no one + has ever left me with the impression of being a 'whiter' man, or + who was a more perfect English gentleman. + + "R. M. HAINES, S.A.F." + +Mr. P. H. Lamb, writing in "The Field," June 18th, 1918, gives some +details of the actual position of Selous' grave, of which he furnishes a +photograph. + + "The geographical position of his grave is approximately lat. 7 + deg. S., long. 38 deg. E. It is not near any village but lies + only a few yards to the east of the main road leading south from + Mikesse, on the Central Railway to the Rufigi river, from which + it is about 10 miles distant. There is a stream crossing the + road at this point. It was here that the gallant 25th Royal + Fusiliers were camped on the day (January 4, 1917) when Selous + was killed. It was to this spot that the fallen hero was + carried. + + "The graveyard is situated close by the old camp, and contained + at the time of my visit seven simple wooden crosses. Besides the + one in memory of Captain Selous are those of Sergeant Knight, + Lance-Corporal Evans, and Privates Taylor and Evans, all of the + Royal Fusiliers, who were killed on the same day. The other two + graves are those of privates of the British West Indies Regiment + who died at the same place months later. The precise spot where + Selous was fighting when he was first wounded was pointed out to + me. It was among some small knolls which lie about a mile to the + north, on which the present camp, known as Chogawali, has since + been built.... + + "The stream running by the spot where Captain Selous' remains + are laid to rest is the last fresh water met with along the road + before reaching the Rufigi. It is for the most part a wild + inhospitable district--the haunt of a great variety of big game, + including elephants, giraffes, and rhinos. Not more than four + miles away is a warm salt spring running down into a salt lake, + where hippos, wild ducks, egrets, and numerous other wild fowl + abound. But despite these alleviations it can hardly be called a + fascinating part of the country, and the object of most people + who have seen it will be to avoid it carefully in the future." + +The war in German East Africa dragged its slow length along throughout +1917, in November of which year it may be said to have terminated, when +the remnant of the German forces under Colonel von Lettow-Vorbeck were +driven right across the borders into Portuguese territory. There, owing +to the rainy season in the early part of 1918, they split up into small +parties and searched the country for native supplies, being finally +(September, 1918) forced into the low-lying country between the north of +the Zambesi and the coast. + +Since then they have attacked various Portuguese stations and +encampments and taken fresh supplies of provisions, medical necessaries +and ammunition and are still (September, 1918) causing much trouble to +trace, British forces relentlessly pursuing them. Colonel R. +Meinertzhagen, who is well acquainted with the local conditions, +writes:-- + + "The campaign is not over to-day (August 1st, 1918), and it is + by no means impossible that Von Lettow breaks north again into + his old colony.[84] He is an exceptional man of iron will and + great personality. I met him in Tanga in November, 1914, and he + then declared that even though we might drive him from his + colony he would fight to the last, and that he would never be + taken alive." + +Commenting on the great difficulties of the campaign, General Smuts, at +a meeting of the Royal Geographical Society (January 28th, 1918), +designated the travels of Livingstone and Selous as mere "joy rides" +compared to what had been done by Empire troops in East Africa. + + "The Germans," he remarked, "are not in search of colonies after + the English model. Not colonies, but military power and + strategic positions for a great Central African Empire, + comprising not only her colonies before the war, but also all + the English, French, Belgian, and Portuguese possessions south + of the Sahara and Lake Chad, and north of the Zambesi river in + South Africa. + + "Towards this objective she was steadily marching even before + the war broke out, and she claims the return of her lost African + colonies at the end of the war as a starting-point from which to + resume the interrupted march. This Central African block was + intended in the first place to supply the economic requirements + and raw materials of German industry, and in the second and far + more important place to become the recruiting ground of vast + armies. The natural harbours on the Atlantic and Indian Oceans + were to supply the naval and submarine bases from which both + ocean routes would be dominated and British and American + sea-power be brought to naught. + + "No fresh extension of Prussian militarism to other continents + and seas should be tolerated, and the conquered German colonies + can only be regarded as guarantees for the security of the + future peace of the world. The premature or unwise restoration + of German East Africa to its former owners might have + consequences reaching far beyond the confines of the African + continent. Perhaps I may be allowed to express the fervent hope + that a land where so many of our heroes lost their lives may + never be allowed to become a menace to the future peaceful + development of the world." + +All of which is very true, for after the war, if German East Africa is +restored to Germany, as some of our socialists, like Mr. Wells, seem to +desire, it is a certainty that in time we shall lose all our South +African possessions as well as those in the north. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[82] Colonel Driscoll, who commanded the 25th Royal Fusiliers, writes: +"Captain Selous, the great hunter, was one of the hardest men in the +battalion, in spite of his 65 years. He was shot dead while leading his +company through the bush against an enemy four times their strength. +Lieutenant Dutch, another very gallant man, took his place and received +a mortal wound immediately afterwards." + +[83] Mr. Lamb also mentions that Selous was wounded before he was +killed, but this is contradicted by others who were present. Mr. Denis +Lyell, writing in the "Field," August 17th, 1918, says: "Details of his +death were given to Mr. W. Watmough by a friend in his regiment who was +present. He says: 'Capt. Selous was shot through the head and right +side. We were on a crest line at the time with the Germans in front and +on both flanks. We were subjected to very heavy enfilade fire, and could +not locate the enemy properly owing to the wooded nature of their +positions. At this stage Selous went forward down the slope about +fifteen yards, and was just raising his glasses in order to see (more +particularly) where certain snipers were when he received his first +wound in the side. He was half-turning towards us when he was shot +through the side of the head. He died immediately.'" + +[84] This view has proved to be correct. + + + + +CHAPTER XV +CHARACTER, APPEARANCE, ETC.--SOME STORIES OF HIM + + +Perhaps Selous' chief success as a hunter lay in his untiring energy and +fearless intention to gain some desired object. He brought the same +force into play in pursuit of a bull elephant as of a small butterfly, +and allowed nothing to stand in his way to achieve success. Time, +distance, difficulty, or danger were all things that could be conquered +by a man of strong will, and his bodily strength was such that even to +the end he almost achieved the virility of perfect youth. He would come +back from the early morning hunt, the best time of all for pursuing big +game, and have some breakfast. Then, when others were tired and glad of +some hours' sleep in the camp or waggon, he would call a native boy to +carry his rifle and a few cartridges--in case of an unexpected meeting +with some rare animal--take his butterfly-net and collecting-box, to +spend the hot hours of the day in search of Lepidoptera. Few men, even +young men in the prime of life, are capable of pursuing insects under a +tropical sun after the fatigue of the early morning hunt, but Selous not +only did this almost to the day of his death, but also went out again in +search of big game in the hours between three o'clock and sunset. + +It was his untiring love of Nature and the possible capture of some +victim new to science that always drove him on and banished fatigue. His +whipcord frame responded readily to all the calls he made upon it, for +from his youth he had inured himself to strain and privation, and was +extremely moderate in any indulgence. He ate less than most men, and +never drank anything but tea, which he enjoyed at every meal. Sometimes +he drank champagne at big dinners, but rich wines and high feeding had +no attractions for him. + +He always rated himself as a very moderate shot, and doubtless, in the +early days, when he was only armed with clumsy and indifferent weapons, +his success was not always of a high order, but with the advent of +rifles of greater precision he was certainly a good shot, and he killed +a large proportion of the game he fired at. This was especially so when +he got what he described as his first first-class rifle, a .450 single +shot, made by Gibbs, of Bristol, and with this he killed a large +quantity of game. All of us who are big game hunters, however, know how +greatly the average of hits has advanced since the introduction of the +small-bore high-velocity rifles. In 1895 came the British .303, the +German .275 Mauser, and the Roumanian .256 Mannlicher, and these weapons +possess such accuracy and flatness of trajectory that a poor shot +becomes a moderate one, a good shot a first-class one, and a first-class +performer something remarkable. Since 1900 some firms, notably John +Rigby, have utilized the best points of these smaller weapons to make +them successful on the largest and most dangerous game in the hands of +experienced men, and have invented weapons of tremendous hitting power +with magazine rapidity of fire. + +London gunmakers were so anxious for Selous to use every new weapon they +put on the market that he was bombarded with gifts of new weapons, in +the hope that he would use them and advertise their wares. In many cases +he did accept them, and between 1896 and 1915 he tried, on his numerous +trips, perhaps a dozen different rifles. In this he admitted that he +made a great mistake, for he would have done much better it he had +adhered to one rifle for small game, such as the common .256 Mannlicher, +and one large one, such as the .450 Rigby for heavy or dangerous +animals. Many of these new rifles, though they nearly all shot well +_when they worked_, developed glaring faults in magazine construction or +defective bullets. What does well enough on the target at home is often +quite a failure in the wear and tear of the African wilderness. A bullet +that "mushrooms" nicely on the carcase of a horse may completely fail +to stop a tough African antelope, and so on. Thus Selous lost his faith +in specious promises, and often wished he had stuck to his old .450 +single-shot Gibbs, which always gave good results on all medium-sized +game, and even on the few occasions when he met elephants. + +As an example of Selous' practical nature with regard to rifles, and the +absolute necessity of testing them thoroughly before field-use, he told +me one day the following story:-- + +At a leading London gunmaker's he had ordered a heavy high-velocity +rifle, which he intended to use on large game in one of his more recent +expeditions. As so often happens, the gunmaker in question delayed the +delivery of the weapon till the very last moment, and one hour before he +was to depart for Africa, Selous found himself in possession of a new +weapon whose sighting and cartridges he had not tested. Now, to a man of +his experience, such a thing as taking a rifle to Africa without first +shooting it carefully was unheard of. The cartridges might not fit, or +the sights might be set too high or too low. There was only one thing to +be done, he must test the rifle somehow, even though located as he was +in a house in Regent's Park. Calling the servant he asked her to get a +cab and put all his kit therein and to place his hat and coat ready in +the hall. When the maid announced that this had been done, he then +opened his bedroom-window, and selecting a neighbouring chimney-stack, +at about 100 yards distance, he fired five shots in quick succession. + +The effect in the densely populated neighbourhood may be more easily +imagined than described. Heads appeared at every window and knots of +people began to assemble in the streets below. What on earth was +happening? Had someone suddenly gone mad? Was a murder being +perpetrated, or had the Germans landed? Selous quickly got out his +field-glasses, and noticed that the pattern on the brick chimney was +distinctly good. He then carefully cleaned the rifle and put it in its +case, donned his hat and coat, and opened the front door. Here was +assembled a group of scared people, whilst a policeman was seen hastily +crossing the road. Someone asked him as he entered the cab if he had +heard the shots, and the old hunter replied that he had, and that the +sounds seemed to have come from one of the rooms above. So Selous tried +his rifle and went on his way rejoicing. + +Speaking of him as a hunter, Sir Alfred Pease, himself one of our best +performers in the field, writes:-- + + "It would be easier to write more fully of Selous, if he had + occasionally 'broken out' and 'bucked' a bit--his very modesty + and reserve and his care about what he said and his delightful + simple-heartedness concerning his own achievements[85] were + something difficult to cope with--much as they added to the + charm and attractiveness of the man and fortified one's + confidence in him. To me that he was absolutely true and the + pure stuff was what made him stand out. Personally I never saw + him do anything brilliant--I have seen many men shoot better, + quicker, and so on, but no man who got so much or at any rate + any more interest out of all that pertains to a hunter's and + naturalist's life. He was a rather deliberate than quick + observer, as far as I can judge, but when he had reached a + conclusion you might lay your money he was right. I remember one + day being rather inclined (being myself of an eager, quick, and + perhaps impatient nature) to think him tiresome. He was with me + at Kilanga (my B.E.A. farm), and said, 'Now I want to get a good + Kongoni' (Coke's Hartebeest)--we were standing where there were + always hundreds, and often thousands, in sight. We regarded + Kongoni like the flocks on a hundred mountains. The old bulls' + heads were much alike; in early days I had measured perhaps a + dozen, and did not find that any one was much more interesting + than another. I said I didn't know that I could help him, 'they + were much of a muchness.' He asked me questions about + measurements and weights and so on, most of which I could not + answer. I told him there were plenty to choose from, and off he + went and spent the whole of a hot day trying to find a + 'specimen' worth having. He returned at night with a head and + neck, and then the inquisition began again after measuring and + remeasuring, and after a time (perhaps he was two hours messing + about with his Kongoni head in the evening, after a tiring day, + when I wanted him to come in and sit down) he came to the + conclusion that there was not much difference between his head + and the horns lying about of those we had shot for meat. He went + to Juja (MacMillan's), and a few days after showed me two other + heads he had got there, and no doubt had given the same exertion + and examination to get, and with not much different result. It + is well for science that there are such men, and some of my + neighbours were amazed at this man, whose great reputation had + reached them, and had expected to see him galloping after lions + and shooting them from the saddle, etc., bothering himself over + Kongoni heads, but I must say I admired immensely this + persistence to get at a definite knowledge about a common + beast." + +It is a little difficult to gauge the shooting quality of a man by +reading published works, because rifle-shooting at big game in various +countries involves such various conditions. In Scotland, Norway, and the +high grounds of Europe, Asia, and America, a good shot would probably +kill ten beasts out of every fifteen or twenty cartridges expended, or +even less. Many men do not take "all chances," moving or otherwise, +whilst the best hunters do take all targets offered at a good head and +at all ranges up to 350 yards, but in the plains and forests of Africa +the average of shots fired is far higher, because the conditions are +more difficult, and, broadly speaking, from three to six shots[86] are +required in the course of a trip to every animal brought to bag. In +Africa visibility, except in the early morning and late evening, is +curtailed by refraction from the earth of the sun's rays, and animals +are much shyer; on the plains and in the bush it is difficult to pick +out the best head or to see it clearly. Often too, especially in bush, +the shot is hurried, and has to be taken when the shooter is standing +in a bad position. There is always too the nervous tension on the part +of the hunter when pursuing dangerous game, a nervousness not +necessarily fear, which makes him ever on the alert for danger or alarm +caused by some other animal of the same herd. All these circumstances +create other conditions unfavourable to good shooting, although they +undoubtedly add to the charm of African sport. In earlier days too in +South Africa (and more recently sometimes in East Africa) most of the +game killed was shot after riding down the animal or quickly galloping +after it and jumping off for the shot as soon as the beast came to a +standstill and was not greatly alarmed. At this form of sport Selous +was, when once well armed, a very skilful performer. His excellent +horsemanship, fearless dash through "wait-a-bit" thorns, and keen eye +enabled him almost invariably to run to a standstill almost any animal +he had set out to chase, and though he admitted he frequently used many +cartridges before he achieved success, I think he was a much better shot +than he professed to be. In later years, when he hunted the beasts of +the plain, forests, and mountains in Europe, Asia Minor, and North +America, his expenditure of cartridges (if we read his books carefully) +certainly proves him to have been a very good performer with the rifle. + +After his marriage, in 1895, he spent much of his time in England and +took "seriously" to the shot-gun. I say "seriously," because everything +he did was adopted with the same whole-heartedness that he brought to +other things. At first it must be admitted he was a very poor performer, +and did not kill any except the ordinary rising bird; but, as time went +on, he practised so assiduously that he was soon able to kill a few +driven grouse and partridges. After twenty years he became quite a good +shot, certainly above the average, but was always depressed that he +could not master the slowness which is ever the lot of a man who takes +up the shot-gun after middle age. Such, however, was his persistence and +determination to excel that on occasion he performed so well that his +hosts thought he had been shooting with the smooth-bore all his life, +and complimented him on his skill. I remember one day in particular at +Tatton Park, Lord Egerton's beautiful seat in Cheshire, when Selous +really shot brilliantly and quite as well as any of the other guns, who +were accounted first-class shots. We killed over one thousand pheasants +that day, and Selous took down the high birds with a speed and accuracy +that I think even astonished himself. He was like a schoolboy in his joy +that day at shooting so well, and as usual said it was a "fluke" and he +could never do it again. Another day at Swythamley, where, at the +invitation of our old friend, Sir Philip Brocklehurst, we drove the moor +for grouse, Selous killed for the first time twenty birds at one stand. +He was in the seventh heaven of delight, nearly walked us off our legs, +and told us "lion" stories till far into the night. We had many happy +days at Swythamley between the years 1896-1914, and Selous was always at +his best there under the rain of "chaff" and practical jokes of our +host. Sir Philip's two sons, the present Sir Philip, who accompanied +Shackleton to the Antarctic, and Courtenay, a captain in the 10th +Hussars, and at present "flying" in East Africa, were boys after Selous' +own heart, and have since become keen and successful big game hunters, +whose youthful imagination Selous did so much to fire. At Swythamley we +were all a happy party with congenial tastes and full of fun, and I +always look back on the many delightful days we spent there as some of +the best of life. + +He liked nearly all outdoor sports at different times. He played an +energetic game of tennis and was a really good croquet-player. Most of +all he loved cricket, and played regularly for his local club at +Worplesdon, taking part in all their matches until 1915. When any great +game was fought at Lord's, such as England v. Australia, he was +generally there before the game began in the members' enclosure, and, +much as he detested crowds, he with his wife would sit out the whole +three days and watch every ball that went down. On such occasions he +seldom spoke, but kept his eyes firmly fixed upon the players, noting +the skill displayed on both sides. At Worplesdon he put such life into +the local club that they were soon able to leave the rough common where +former matches were played and take and keep in order an excellent +cricket-field. I played in some of these matches, which were rather of +the "Dingley-Dell" type, and it was always a treat to see Fred standing +so close "in" at "point" that he looked as if he would catch the batsman +before he hit the ball. "Big Game Hunters _v._ Worplesdon" was always a +great and solemn occasion. + +In his later years he was a most indefatigable cyclist, and thought +nothing of riding over to see his friends thirty and forty miles away +and back, even when he was over sixty years of age. When at home he +never rode in a car if he could avoid it, as his policy was ever to keep +fit by physical exercise. + +The following is an example of his energy as a cyclist (September 5th, +1909):-- + + "I got home yesterday evening, having bicycled all the way from + Gloucester--about 100 miles--in pouring rain most of the way, + and over heavy, muddy roads, in just twelve hours, including + stoppages for breakfast and lunch. I am not at all tired to-day, + and next year, if I can get a fine day, I shall see if I cannot + do 120 miles between daylight and dusk." Not bad for fifty-seven + years of age. + +With regard to the personal appearance and character of the man, his +hard, gruelling life had left him straight and well-conditioned at the +age of sixty. Few men interested others so much. He stood for all that +was best in romance and high adventure. His life was of the hardest, for +he loved to pit his strength against the forces of Nature. From +childhood he only knew physical discipline as a virtue and battle as a +self-enforced necessity. In appearance he was deep-chested, straight as +an arrow, and with immensely powerful muscles on his arms and legs. +Latterly he was inclined to stoutness, but this was kept in check by +constant exercise. If there was one striking feature in his physiognomy +it was his wonderful eyes, as clear and blue as a summer sea. Nearly +every one who came in contact with him noticed his eyes. They were the +eyes of the man who looks into the beyond over vast spaces. +Instinctively one saw in them the hunter and the man of wide views. +Their clarity of expression was so intense that any observer could see +at a glance the whole nature of the mind that lay behind. + +In social intercourse Selous had a presence that was apt to make other +people look insignificant. He was adored by all his friends, and even +perfect strangers seemed to come under his magnetism at the first +introduction. It was not only the interesting things he had to tell, and +the way he told them, but the kindness of heart and modesty that forced +their way through any narrative, and which seemed to grow upon him with +the years. Often was he the most sympathetic of listeners, but as a rule +he was a great talker and an unrivalled story-teller. His memory was +marvellous. Never halting for a word, his tales would flow on for hours +without a check, and he was so skilful in the art of telling a tale that +he seldom repeated stories with which he knew his audience were +familiar. Well as I knew him for twenty years, I have rarely heard him +repeat himself. Great as he was in this character, as powerful as any +professional who holds his audience entranced in the court-yards of the +Eastern cities, it was not a sense of vanity that inspired his +volubility. It was always others who drew him on to talk, and he was so +good-natured that he hated to leave his friends disappointed when he +felt that stories were expected from him. Life was to him an endless +adventure, and the freshness of his curiosity, the tireless spring of +youth and romance, and the eagerness with which he attacked any subject, +were such as to cause delight in the minds of all men who love to hear +of high adventure and are yet debarred from playing their part. Nothing +could quench his ardour when once his mind was set upon a thing. To hear +him was to experience some fresh breeze blowing off the shores of youth. +He possessed charm in the highest degree because he always seemed to +like best the people he was with. He led his audience along pleasant +ways and knew the secret of raising others to the plane of his own +intellectual level. Alternately he was romantic, brilliant, fiery, +brave, or kind, and thus ran through the gamut of human emotions. + +Yet with all his high enthusiasm he always displayed a curious +diffidence as regards his own exploits--a modesty that perhaps endeared +him best to those who loved him, for he was like all big men--a man who +had no illusions. In all success he was ever alive to his own +limitations, and none was more severe than he upon himself when he felt +he had done some foolish thing or failed in some achievement from want +of knowledge or skill. Few people knew how hardly he judged himself, or +what anxieties he passed through before attacking some new problem. But +the mental drag was there nevertheless, and though he may have laughed +at it afterwards, there was something curiously feminine and +introspective in his dual nature. + +In many of the letters written during his early life in Africa, there is +a certain strain of melancholy which seemed to overwhelm him when he +found that after all his efforts to "make good," the results had not +been a financial success. But these times of sadness were for the most +part only temporary, and soon gave way under the influence of fresh +enterprise. + + "It was curious," writes his sister, Mrs. A. Jones, "that for + all my brother's splendid health, great and varied interests, + and good spirits--though not of the wildly elated kind--there was + a strain of sadness in his nature, and he had not the love of + life that would have seemed so natural--though there seemed to + be so much in his life to live for. I have often heard him say + that he would not mind dying at all, or would as soon die as + live, or some expression to that effect. He was very + philanthropic, and accepted any reverse of fortune or + disappointment with calmness and fortitude. He suffered much, I + think, through his views on the Boer War, but he was steadfast + and true to his beliefs and principles always, and in this he + showed a fine and noble spirit. This high sense of honour and + integrity shone out like a bright star from a very feebly lit + world in this respect. To me he was ever the most loving and + tender brother, and his loss I shall ever lament." + +All men and women have a real age which never leaves them from the +cradle to the grave. Some are always twenty, and others drag through +life with the soul of sixty. Fred Selous was one of those happy +creatures who die young, for he never resigned his youthful ideals. + +He had a great sympathy with emotional people. Good acting or the +"French temperament" appealed to him. Though slow to anger as a rule, it +was not rare to see him spring from his chair and jerk his head fiercely +from side to side at any story of injustice. The Norman blood in his +veins caused him to like the French and to appreciate their "bonhomie" +and excitability. With him too it was always near the surface--ready to +sympathize, swift to resent--but over it all was the iron check of +Scottish caution. + +One night in Vienna, in 1910, Prince Henry Liechtenstein gave a little +dinner party at "Sacher's." Slatin Pasha was there, and told us some +interesting stories of his adventures as a captive of the Mahdi. Then +came what I thought to be a somewhat garbled version of the Fashoda +incident. Finally he made certain remarks, in very bad taste, of the +leave-taking of Marchand with the French colony at the Cairo railway +station. To him it was exceedingly "funny" that Marchand should burst +into tears and kiss his friends. I got angry at this, and we had a +somewhat heated passage of words. "Why," he sneered in conclusion, "what +had Marchand to complain of--he was only a miserable Captain before, and +was now made a Colonel." Such a gross misunderstanding of a man's +temperament and ideals and ambitions seemed deplorable indeed. It was +quite German in its total failure to appreciate national psychology. In +those two years of trial, privation and danger which Marchand had to +face what must his thoughts have been. Twice on the road his expedition +met with disaster from sickness, desertion and other causes. Yet he had +re-formed it and marched successfully across unknown Africa from West to +East with a handful of Senegalese sharpshooters, courting almost certain +death at the end at the hands of the Mahdists. Only our expedition to +Khartoum had saved him, by destroying the power of the Khalifa at the +eleventh hour. What did such a man as he care for a trumpery military +advancement? He was out to do his duty for France, and he did it where +nine hundred and ninety-nine men out of a thousand would have failed. He +achieved his end, but owing to our policy--for once strong--his +Government failed him. Marchand was truly a great man. When I told this +trifling incident to Selous he seemed to be thrown into a frenzy of +rage, for I did not then know his views on Marchand. "Why," he shouted, +"Marchand did the biggest thing any man has ever done in Africa, and of +course no one knows it--I should like to kiss him myself!" + +In speaking his voice possessed a singularly rich tone and resonance, +and with all it carried a sympathetic quality that seemed to play +directly on the heartstrings of his audience. Such gestures as he used +were purely natural and necessary, and though possessing the volubility +and excitable temperament of the southern races, the northern strain +kept in check any excessive gesticulation. Although latterly his hearing +was poor, he possessed a wonderful discrimination in shades of +pronunciation when making use of native or foreign languages. Ever alive +to the picturesque or the romantic, he clothed his stories in the +language of which the true story-teller has the key, whilst over all +hung the indelible stamp of truth and accuracy that characterized the +man himself. His thoughts ranged over a wide field of emotions and +ideas, in which chivalry perhaps played the most important part. It was +always present in all his thoughts and acts. This with the intense +energy or "fury of play," backed by the vehemence of emotion, carried +him far in the higher flights both of act and imagination. "It is easy +to be an ass and to follow the multitude like a blind besotted bull in a +stampede," says Stevenson. Selous followed no leader but himself. +Success left him humble, and the sharp ferule of calamity only crushed +him for the moment. As he hated conventionality, so he loathed +respectability--"that deadliest gag and wet blanket that can be laid on +men." It meant nothing to him but the crystallized demeanour of +spineless invertebrates. Thus when he spoke either in public or private +life, he spoke direct from his heart and experience, and Men recognized +the Man. He had a few mannerisms, and all have that--but was never the +victim of stereotyped phrase or trite quotation. He took infinite care +in his composition, but seldom altered, once the written thought was on +paper. Unlike most authors he did not prune the "flesh" off his "bones" +until the residue was satisfactory. Every line was complete when once he +had set it down, and his manuscripts are as unaltered as at the moment +they were written. In his lectures, as in his writings, he seemed to +complete his thoughts before they were transferred to speech or writing. +Having made up his mind what to say he just delivered himself over, as +it were, to the absorbing interest or ruling passion of the moment. All +his written work cannot be said to be of equal merit. Perhaps his best +efforts are to be found in "African Nature Notes and Reminiscences," in +which his command of English reaches a high level, yet in all +circumstances, especially when narrating his own adventures in simple +style such as in "A Hunter's Wanderings," or his escape from the +Mushukulumbwe, he enjoyed "the happy privilege of making lovers among +his readers." He possessed a certain quiet gift of humour, which he +seldom indulged in except in such quaint instances as the remarks he +makes on the vicious horse he gave to Lobengula in the hope that he +would give it to one of his chiefs whom Selous particularly detested. + +Pathos too, to the man who so frequently met with it, was something too +terrible for soul disintegration. He often told me he simply could not +speak of the circumstances of poor French's death in the bush in 1879. +It hurt him so much. But romance, tragedy, the beautiful, the +picturesque, or the noble deeds of unpretentious men all fell into their +natural places in his scheme of colour and formed a completed whole that +was the outcome of perfect spontaneity and natural utterance. Thus he +saw life in a vision as wide and untrammelled as the desolate plains he +loved. He seemed to divine from his own experience how other men felt, +and with the intensity of human sympathy knew how to encourage and +console others in times of difficulty. To him no man was so poor that he +was not ready to give him a "lift" on his waggon or through his purse. +Sternness and tenderness were nearly matched in his conduct, the former +for himself and the latter for the failings of others. In spite of his +knowledge of the world he had no cynicism, his motto being to make +things easier to those who were less fortunate than himself. He bore no +grudge, nor did he feel sore at ingratitude, and might truly have said, +"There is no man born with so little animosity as I." + +In later years Selous often confessed to an enduring restlessness. There +was always so much to be done and so little time to do it. Even when at +home, where he was perfectly happy and always immersed in some form of +brain work or outdoor activity, this restlessness never left him. He +felt it ever in his blood, and it would act like some violent +force--most violent when the turmoil and pettiness of human life or the +futile presence of crowds jarred upon him. Life in cities was to him so +infinitely inferior to the grandeur of nature and interest of the +unknown. Having tasted of the best it is hard after a life spent amid +romance and adventure to settle down comfortably amidst the tiny affairs +and tittle-tattle of everyday things at home. He hated intensely +lawyers, politicians, theorists and men who daily live in the public eye +without knowing anything of the great world in its wide sense. This +spirit of restlessness seems to have been ever present in his later +life. He confessed that he found it difficult to stay in England for +more than six months at a time. There was always some new country and +the pursuit of some new animals which he wished to add to his unique +collection. Africa seemed to draw him like a loadstone, as it had always +done, and its never-ceasing call was ever sounding in his ears. Even +when on service in 1916 he talked with William Judd in Nairobi of a trip +he wished to make with him, after the war had ended, to the Amala to get +a really good black-maned lion. Yet when he was on board ship he +confessed that he was overcome with such home-sickness that he felt +inclined to "throw himself overboard and swim ashore." It must be +admitted that he suffered to some extent in his later days from a +disease which for want of a better word we must call the Nostalgia of +Travel--a disease which attacks many old Big Game hunters--for often +there comes a time when weariness of actual travelling creates +depression, but in his subsequent letters from the actual +hunting-grounds these adverse conditions disappear and he is once more +keen and happy in the fascination of the chase and the clean conditions +of a hunter's life. If we read carefully the classics in hunting and +travel such as Baldwin, Neumann, Livingstone, etc., we constantly come +across records of depression on the part of the writers. Were all the +hardship, toil, dangers and the eternal difficulties of keeping an +outfit in order and even temper good enough? Was not all the money so +hardly won to gain this trip not thrown away? Would the elephants (it +was generally elephants) or the rare horns ever be sighted? Would the +horses or oxen that were left be sufficient to carry the expedition +through after the best had been killed or died of sickness? And yet +there was always an answer to these questions when the leaders were men +of grit. Clouds pass away, men recover their spirits, and we find them +writing, it may be a few weeks or even days afterwards, as if "all was +lovely in the garden." + +All his life he was a great reader, and rather preferred the old +"classics" of English literature to modern books, except those on travel +and big game hunting, of which he had an extensive library. He would +read again and again and enjoy the works of Thackeray and Dickens, and +amongst poets Byron was his favourite. Of modern writers no one appealed +to him so much as Thomas Hardy, all of whose works found great favour, +and especially "Tess of the D'Urbervilles," which he rightly esteemed as +perhaps the greatest modern novel in the English language. Of writers on +Big Game he esteemed highly Baldwin, Roosevelt, Charles Sheldon, Stewart +Edward White, and Arthur Neumann. If he was bored in a crowd or had to +wait at a railway station, he generally had a book in his pocket, and +passed the hours happily in complete absorption of the author's +descriptions. His tastes were wide, as we should expect, ranging from +Tom Hood's humorous poems and such modern imaginative adventures as +"Raffles" and "Stingaree", to Gibbon's "Decline and Fall of the Roman +Empire." He considered "Robbery under Arms" the most delightful modern +romance, with a substratum of fact, he had ever read, but it always held +second place to "Tess." He loved novels about imaginary people leading +heroic lives, suffering, loving, hating, adventuring and fighting--all +on some high level above the petty joys and sorrows of a work-a-day +world. + +Of his personal friends it is somewhat difficult to speak, as he knew so +many in so many different lands. His circle of acquaintances was +immense, though it was natural that his intimates should be men of +similar tastes. In England we have a very excellent institution known as +the "Shikari Club," an association of Big Game hunters founded by +Captain C. E. Radclyffe, Captain P. B. Vanderbyl and Selous himself +under the presidency of the Earl of Lonsdale. This club meets but once a +year on the night of the Oaks, and members dine together at the Savoy +Hotel. Here all matters relating to hunting throughout the world are +discussed, plans are made for the future, and it is, as it were, a +general meeting round the camp fire of brothers of the rifle. The +camaraderie is excellent, and we all know and help each other with +information as to future travels. Admission to its ranks is somewhat +severe, for no man, unless he has proved himself to be a sportsman of +the best type, is ever elected. Amongst these men, who have probably +travelled and hunted more extensively than any other community in the +world, Selous counted many close friends whose names are too numerous to +mention, and from them he got the latest information for some projected +trip just as he on his part helped many of them. Another club which at +one time he constantly visited to hear discussions on the subject of +birds was the British Ornithologists', a dining branch of the British +Ornithologists' Union, where after dinner specimens of interest were +exhibited, and discussions took place. Most of the principal members +were his friends, as well as leading Zoologists in the Zoological +Society and the British Museum (Natural History), whom it was always his +pleasure to serve and help with new specimens. In later years nearly +all his old South African friends were dead or had retired, so he saw +little of them, but in England, after his return from South Africa, he +made many new friends whose homes he constantly visited. From 1896 till +the time of his death he often stayed with Lord Egerton of Tatton, whose +son, the Hon. Maurice Egerton, whom he had first met in Alaska, was a +great friend of his; with Abel Chapman, with whom he had been at school +at Rugby, and who had many kindred tastes; with Heatley Noble, to whom +he was much attached; with Sir Philip Brocklehurst and his family, for +whom he entertained a warm affection; and with Mr. MacMillan, in +Devonshire. These are only a few of the friends who were in intimate +sympathy with him, and to whom he constantly wrote accounts of his more +recent travels. I met him first in 1897, and from then until his death +he wrote to me constantly, and never did either of us go on an +expedition without his coming to see me or my going to Worplesdon to +discuss the matter in the smallest detail. In those twenty years we both +hunted or wandered in other lands every year, and I cannot adequately +express what his warm friendship and help was to me, for when Selous +opened his soul to anyone he did it with a whole-heartedness and an +abandonment of all reserve that are rare in these days. In our lives +there come only a few fellow-creatures to whom we can say anything that +comes into our minds without being misinterpreted. Even in absence we +think about them as they about us, and we know how they will rejoice at +our successes and sympathize with our failures, because they know and +understand. When such a man as Selous passes away, and we have enjoyed +that intimacy, the world indeed seems desolate, even though we have the +poor consolation that what has been was very good. + +In his own home Selous was hospitality itself, and loved to entertain +visitors from all parts of the world who came to see him or his museum. +Complete strangers were received with the same courtesy as intimate +friends, and Selous would spend hours showing his trophies to anyone who +exhibited the smallest interest in the subject. Officers from Aldershot +or Naval men were always welcome, and I should think that a large +portion of the British Army and Navy had at one time or another enjoyed +the pleasure of seeing his trophies under his personal supervision, and +it was this abandonment of self and personal interest in his +fellow-creatures that made him so popular. + +[Illustration: THEY CANNOT BREAK HIS SLEEP.] + +One day I found him in fits of laughter over one of his visitors. A +telegram had been received in the morning stating that Lewanika, chief +of the Barotsi, whom he had known in old days, would visit him. His +dusky majesty, attended by a cicerone, arrived in a very perturbed state +of mind. It appeared that in the morning he had been received by His +Majesty the King at Buckingham Palace, and when he left he was under the +impression that he had not behaved properly in the royal presence. These +fears were confirmed when the train which bore the party to Worplesdon +entered the long tunnel just before reaching Guildford. The absence of +lights, and the darkness of the surroundings, seemed to have been the +climax, for the dusky monarch dived under the seat of the carriage, and +was with difficulty removed when the train reached Guildford. Never +before having experienced such a horrible thing as a tunnel, Lewanika +considered that the English King was taking this new method to destroy +him.[87] + +As a man of such breadth of mind his friendships were cosmopolitan +rather than insular. He had many friends in Austria, such as the three +Counts Hoyos; in America, such as President Roosevelt, Charles Sheldon, +and the members of the Boone and Crockett Club; in Asia Minor and +Transylvania, such as Sir William Whittall and Consul Danford; whilst in +South Africa he knew everyone in all grades of politics or outdoor life. +To enumerate the men he knew well would fill a volume. + +One of Fred's missionary friends in the pioneer days was the Rev. Isaac +Shimmin, a type of those hard-working, unassuming men who go out into +the wilderness to do good to others. He is kind enough to send me a few +lines denoting Selous' attitude towards the spread of religion in the +new country and his broad-minded tolerance of various creeds. + + "It is now nearly thirty years since I first met my old friend, + Fred Selous. At that time I was living at Klerksdorp, in the + Transvaal, and among my friends were some who in former years + had lived in the interior; such as Mr. Thomas Leask, Mr. Alec + Brown, and several others. I was therefore in the right + atmosphere for hearing thrilling stories of African adventure, + in which men like Hartley the hunter and Westbeech the trader + had played a prominent part. For this little town had for years + been the refitting station for men from the north, and because + of this we always seemed in close touch with the regions beyond. + One day I met Mr. H. C. Collison, and soon after I heard Mr. G. + A. Phillips ('Elephant Phil') describe realistically an + encounter with a lion. But there was one name around which a + halo of peculiar distinction had already gathered, for I noticed + that when these men spoke of Selous it was always with a note of + personal affection; they not only admired him as a successful + hunter, but they evidently loved him as a well-tried friend. And + when I actually met him I soon recognized the charm of his + simple and winning personality. The friendship which was then + begun quickly ripened into an intimacy which lasted until the + day of his death. I was only a young Wesleyan minister, and he + was the famous hunter, and yet we had many things in common, and + what attracted me most was his unaffected manner and genuine + honesty of thought and conduct. How well I remember his first + visit to my little parsonage, his stories of travel and + adventure told with such quiet and characteristic modesty, and + our long talk on Spiritualism and kindred subjects. He was one + of the best conversationalists I have ever met, he could listen + as well as speak, he had kept up his reading all through his + wanderings, and his lonely life in the African veldt had given + him many opportunities for keen and original reflection. + + "About the date to which I refer he was making preparations for + leading the pioneers of the Chartered Company into Mashunaland, + and he kindly invited me to accompany him, offering me the use + of one of his own waggons. To my great regret I had to decline, + but the following year (1891) I was appointed to represent the + Wesleyan Church in the new Colony, and by the end of September I + found myself established in the small town of Salisbury. One of + the first to give me a welcome was Fred Selous, who was then + employed by the Government in making roads and helping to open + out and settle the country. + + "It is impossible in these few lines to say very much about my + friend, but by giving two or three simple incidents I may help + the reader to see Selous as I saw him. His hatred of boasting + and exaggeration was very marked. One day he called on me in + Salisbury and asked me to go to his house, as he had something + to show me. He had just returned from Hartley Hills, and whilst + there had shot his largest lion. How modestly he told the story, + and with what interest I looked upon the skin of the huge beast + (now mounted at Worplesdon). His humility was always as + conspicuous as his bravery. Nor would he condone any false + pretensions in others. He was once having breakfast in my + waggon, and a gentleman who was outspanned near by asked me to + introduce him to the great hunter. I did so, and immediately + Selous began to ask him about certain incidents in a book he had + published some time before. The replies, I could see, were not + satisfactory and the subject was dropped. What amused me later + was the surprise of the visitor that such a quiet and unassuming + man should be the famous personage whose name was revered by + every man who carried a gun. But such a person could not + possibly understand Selous, who, neither in speech nor in print, + would ever make a statement which he could not verify. His + veracity was unimpeachable, and his 'Hunter's Wanderings' was + the favourite text-book of every amateur. His word could be + taken for every trivial detail; as I once heard an old hunter + remark, 'Whatever Fred Selous says is absolutely true.' This was + not a cheap testimony in a country where the imagination so + often colours the records of personal adventure. + + "He was never afraid to express his opinions, however unpopular + they might be at the time. We were both in Bulawayo when word + came from the south that Dr. Jameson had invaded the Transvaal + with a few hundred men. An open-air meeting was held in the + town, and Selous was one of the speakers. There was great + excitement and we hardly knew what to believe. In the afternoon + I rode out with him to his farm (Essexvale), about twenty miles + from Bulawayo, and spent a few pleasant days in his home, but I + remember how strongly he expressed his doubts as to the + genuineness of the message of distress from Johannesburg. When I + got back to town I heard of the capture of Jameson by Cronje, + and later events proved that the doubts of my friend were amply + justified. + + "Selous was thought by some to have been rather critical as + regards the work of the missionaries, but from various + conversations I had with him I am convinced that his criticisms + applied only to those whose methods were more idealistic than + practical. Among his warmest friends were those devoted men who + had toiled for years in Matabeleland, and who had succeeded in + raising the physical and moral status of the natives. That he + was always in sympathy with all good work was evident. Soon + after going to Salisbury I was engaged in building a small + church and the other denominations were also doing their best + for the new community, all of us working together in the most + friendly spirit. One day Selous said to me, with a touch of + hesitation, 'By the way, Shimmin, I wish you would do me a + favour. Would you give this small donation to Canon Balfour, of + the Church of England, and this to Major Pascoe, of the + Salvation Army, and keep the other for your own building-fund. + You are all doing good work, and I want to help you.' And he + handed me three five-pound notes. It was a good proof of his + broad and liberal outlook and of his recognition of the + practical benefits of the Christian Church. + + "This sketch is necessarily very brief and imperfect, and, as I + write, my memory brings before me many scenes which are + associated with my old friend. I think of the fashionable crowd + in the Imperial Institute, with the Duke of Fife in the chair, + and Selous giving a lecture in his own inimitable style. I was + very proud of him, but that evening, as I sat with Mrs. Selous + and Miss Rhodes, I somehow felt that the speaker was closer to + me than to any of that admiring audience, for he and I had been + together in the African wilds. + + "And now he sleeps in the land he loved so well. At an age when + most men would seek retirement and rest, he went forth to fight + for justice and righteousness, and in that cause he made the + supreme sacrifice of his life. Fred Selous was one of God's true + and valiant gentlemen. + + 'One who never turned his back but marched breast forward, + Never doubted clouds would break, + Never dreamed, though right were worsted, wrong would triumph, + Held we fall to rise, are baffled to fight better, + Sleep to wake.' + + "He lived the simple creed of sincerity and trust. Fearless for + the right and dauntless in the face of danger, he won the hearts + of men, and by the influence of his strong and genuine character + he gave to us all a higher and purer conception of the inherent + nobility of our common humanity. + + "ISAAC SHIMMIN." + +Colonel Roosevelt, who knew Selous well and understood his character, +kindly sends me the following note:-- + + "There was never a more welcome guest at the White House than + Selous. He spent several days there. One afternoon we went + walking and rock climbing alongside the Potomac; I think we swam + the Potomac, but I am not sure. Another afternoon we rode, going + over some of the jumps in Rock Creek Park, as well as those + rail-fences that we were sure were not wired, in striking across + country. + + "What made Selous so charming a companion was his entire + naturalness and lack of self-consciousness. There are persons + who pride themselves on a kind of ingrowing modesty which + forbids them to speak of anything they have themselves done, or + else causes them to speak of it in such a bald fashion that they + might as well keep silent. This really represents extreme + self-consciousness, and it is only one degree less obnoxious + than the self-consciousness which shows itself in boasting and + bragging. Yet, rather curiously, the exhibition of this + particular kind of morbid self-consciousness is a source of + intense pride to many otherwise intelligent persons. + + "Selous was as free from this vice as from its opposite. He + never boasted. He was transparently truthful. But it never + occurred to him not to tell of his experiences, and he related + them very simply but very vividly, and with the attention to + minute details which marks the born observer and narrator. When + my children were little I had now and then read to them aloud + some of the more exciting extracts from Selous' hunting + adventures. At the time that he visited me at the White House + they were older, and I got him to tell them two or three of the + adventures himself. He made us actually see everything that had + happened. He not only spoke simply and naturally, but he acted + the part, first of himself, and then of the game, until the + whole scene was vivid before our eyes. He would stand and bend + forward, and then he would instantly identify himself with the + lion or buffalo or elephant, and show what it did in its turn. + + "It was on this visit that he promised me that he would write + out some of his observations on the life histories of African + big game. I felt that it would be a real misfortune if this + record were not preserved in permanent form; for Selous had the + eye of a faunal naturalist of the highest type. + + "But our conversation was far from being confined to natural + history and hunting. His reading had been done rather late in + life, and only along certain lines, but he had the same unerring + eye in history and literature that he had in the hunting-field. + Naturally he liked what was simple and straightforward, and the + old Scotch and English ballads appealed very strongly to him. + His people had originally come from that last fragment of the + old-time Norman Duchy, the Channel Islands; and he was keenly + interested in the extraordinary deeds of the Normans. + + "It was through Selous and Edward North Buxton that I made my + arrangements for my African hunting-trip. Much to my delight, + Selous went on the ship with us from Naples to Mombasa. He was, + of course, a delightful travelling companion. He was very much + interested in the way in which the naturalists who were with me + did their collecting, being much impressed by the scientific + efficiency they showed. Whenever possible I would get him + talking about some of his past experiences; and then gradually + other acquaintances would stroll up and sit in an absorbed + circle, while he not only told but acted the story, his keen, + simple, fearless blue eyes looking up at us from time to time, + while his hands moved with a vivacity we are accustomed to think + of as French rather than English. + + "After landing in Africa I saw him but once or twice. Of course + my hunting was that of a tyro compared to his, and he took a + kind of elder brother's interest in what I did and in my + unimportant successes. + + "Later I spent a night with him at his house in Surrey, going + through his museum of hunting-trophies. What interested me + almost as much was being shown the various birds' nests in his + garden. He also went to the British Museum with me to look into + various matters, including the question of protective + coloration. I greatly valued his friendship; I mourn his loss; + and yet I feel that in death as in life he was to be envied. + + "It is well for any country to produce men of such a type; and + if there are enough of them the nation need fear no decadence. + He led a singularly adventurous and fascinating life, with just + the right alternations between the wilderness and civilization. + He helped spread the borders of his people's land. He added much + to the sum of human knowledge and interest. He closed his life + exactly as such a life ought to be closed, by dying in battle + for his country while rendering her valiant and effective + service. Who could wish a better life or a better death, or + desire to leave a more honourable heritage to his family and his + nation? + + "THEODORE ROOSEVELT." + +The best work that Selous did and the qualities for which the British +Nation should be grateful to him are those which he displayed as a +Pioneer. Where Selous went any Englishman could follow and hold up his +head. Selous set up a standard of conduct which people of our own, as +well as those of other nations, might be proud to follow. He, as it +were, stamped his personality on the wilderness, where life is hard and +man easily loses his grip. He never shot a native except purely in +self-defence, and established a reputation for square dealing and +indomitable courage that made the pathway easy for all those who came +after. He never made a sixpence for himself when gains, if he had been +the least unscrupulous, would have been easy, but set up wherever he +went a certain ideal, especially in dealing with natives, that made the +road of colonization easy for tens of thousands. After all, in the life +of any man it is character and example that count, and if Selous did +nothing else, and had, in fact, never killed a single wild animal in his +life, his name would still be one to conjure with in South Africa or +wherever he wandered. + + "Summers shall be forgotten with the rose, + Yea, winters fall from memory like quenched fire, + Loves shall depart unseen, and the voice of desire + Be hushed and stilled in the garden close, + Yet you they shall remember in the land." + +FOOTNOTES: + +[85] Writing to H. F. Wallace in 1911 Selons speaks of his own capacity +in characteristic style: "That quotation (in your article) from +Roosevelt's book as to my being 'the greatest of the world's big game +hunters' is all bunkum. Because I have hunted a lot, that is not to say +I am a specially good hunter." + +[86] According to the quality of the shooter. + +[87] Tunnels seem to have some terrifying effect on the mind of the +black man. I travelled to Africa in 1913 with the King of Uganda and +used to play at draughts with him nearly every day. He expressed great +pleasure at his recent visit to England and the hospitality he had +received there, but said he could not forget the horror of the tunnels +on the railways. + + + + +INDEX + + Adahm, Sergt., 202 + + Africa--early influences on F. C. Selous, 5, 13, 29, 51, 55, + 62 _et seq._; + account of his first visit, 67 _et seq._; + second visit, 99-140; + third visit, 141-95; + Selous depressed at financial situation (1884), 152; + fourth visit, 208-224 + _See also_: Boers, Boer War, Mashunaland, Matabeleland, + and Transvaal + + Africa, East--game laws and destruction of game by settlers, 140; + Sir A. Pease on lion hunting in, 192; + F. C. Selous' hunting trips, 248 _et seq._, 272 _et seq._, 279; + Mr. T. Roosevelt's trip, 267 _et seq._ + Campaign against the Germans, 301, 305 et seq.; + Selous' experiences, 305, 316, 328, 340, 342; + Mr. Roosevelt's views, 325; + Capt. Haines' account, 346 + + "African Nature Notes and Reminiscences," 91, 184, 193, 261; + chapters on protective colouring, 262 _et seq._; + literary merit, 364 + + Ai-eetsee-upee, 121 + + Alpuina, Senhor Alfredo, 172 + + America, North--Selous' hunting trips, 228 _et seq._, 245, + 251 _et seq._, 257 + + American Museum of Natural History--T. Roosevelt's collection, 267 + + Anderson, C. J., 65, 66 + + Andrada, Col. d', 179 + + Antelope, lechwe--movements and habits, 95 + + Antelope, pookoo, 91 + + Antelope, roan, 148 + + Antelope, sable, 73, 91, 94; + defensive powers, 156 + + Antelope, sitatunga, 124 + + Arctic and Antarctic expeditions--public support contrasted + with support accorded to African and Asiatic expeditions, 194 + + Armstrong, Mr. W. L., 180, 183 + + Arnoldi, Major, 320 + + Arnot, Mr., 141, 159 + + Asia Minor--Selous' hunting trips, 207; + bird-nesting trips, 227, 247, 259 + + + Babian, 217 + + "Badminton Library"--"The Lion in South Africa," 184, 189 + + Baillie, Mrs. Alexander, 125 + + Baines, Thomas, 66 + + Baker, Sir Samuel, 103, 265 + + Balamoya, a Kafir, 85, 89 + + Baldwin, William Charles, 65, 67, 223; + "African Hunting from Natal to the Zambesi," 65 + + Banks, Mr. George, 156, 200 + + Barber, Mrs. Frederick, 125 + + Barotsi, 107;--Selous' troubles among during 1888, 160, 166 + + Barttelot, Major, 134 + + Batauwani, 198 + + Batongas, 113; + Selous' troubles among, during expedition of 1888, 159, 167 + + Beal, Col., 217 + + Bechuanas, 68, 198 + + Becker, Ferdinand, 241 + + Beho-Beho ridge, engagement on the, 343 + + "Beigh, Lowden": _see_ Leigh, Mr. Boughton + + Belton--F. C. Selous' school days at, 25 _et seq._ + + Bentley and Son, Richard, 138 + + Bettencourt, Capt., 182 + + Bezedenhuits, the, 200 + + Biles, H., 75 + + Birds--F. C. Selous' early bird-nesting exploits, 17, 26, + 34 _et seq._, 37, 53; + his contributions to Rugby Natural History Society, 54; + his later bird-nesting activities, 227, 245, 247, 249, 257, 259, + 286, 288, 299; + trip to Iceland, 288 _et seq._ + + Bisset, Capt., 214 + + Blackstone, Mr., 35 _et seq._ + + Boers, 74, 126, 130; + aggression against Zulus, 126 + Transvaal War (1881), 136 _et seq._ + Transvaal War (1899-1901), 233 _et seq._; + F. C. Selous' attitude, 233 _et seq._ + + Boer officer's tribute to Mr. Selous, 179 + + Bosnia, 257 + + Botletlie river, 121 + + Bottomly, Sergt.-Major, 312 + + Bournabat, 207 + + Braddon, Miss, 12 + + Bramwell, Baron, 6 + + Brand, Capt., 213 + + British South Africa Company--occupation of Mashunaland, + 174 _et seq._; + Selous' services with, 176, 186, 196; + mismanagement of cattle question, 198, 208; + first Matabele rising, 198 _et seq._; + second rising, 209 _et seq._; + Mr. Millais' criticisms, 219 + + British Ornithologists' Club, 367 + + British Ornithologists' Union, 227, 367 + + Brocklehurst, Sir Philip, 247, 248, 250, 279, 358, 368 + + Brocklehurst, Capt. Courtenay, 358 + + Brown, Alec, 370 + + Bruce, the Abyssinian explorer, 4, 10 + + Bruces of Clackmannan, the, 3 + + Bruce School, Tottenham, 12, 13 + + Bryden, Mr. H. A., 189 + + Buffaloes--dangers of hunting, 77, 102 _et seq._; + Selous' experiences, 92, 102, 105, 284; + McLeod's escape on the Nata, 110; + instances of tenacity of life and viciousness, 110 _et seq._; + speed, 112 + + Bukoba, British attack on, 305, 327 + + Bulawayo, 135, 209, 212; + defence during second Matabele rising, 212 + + Burlace, Mr., 258-9, 221 + + Burchell, 65 + + Barnett, Mr., 172 + + Bushbuck, Angas's, 222 + + Butler, Mr., 276 + + Butler, Sir William, 234 + + Butterflies, 59, 142 + + Buxton, Edward North, 265, 269 _et seq._, 374 + + + Campbell, Lieut., 181 + + Canyemba, chief of Shakundas, 113 + + Canada--F. C. Selous' hunting trips, 245, 251, 257 + + Cardinal, Louis, 252 + + Caribou, 228 _et seq._, 245, 251, 255, 257 + + Carrington, Gen. Sir Frederick, 212, 217 + + Cetawayo, 126, 131; + Zulu war (of 1878), 126; + Gen. Sir E. Hutton's account of his capture, 127; + F. C. Selous' reminiscences, 128 + + Chameluga, 199 + + Chamois hunting in the Tyrol, 60 + + Chanler, Willie, 226 + + Channel Islands, 286 + + Chapman, Mr. Abel, 249, 279, 285, 295, 297, 300, 340, 368 + + Charley (native interpreter), 159, 161 _et seq._, 168 + + Chartered Coy.: see British South Africa Coy. + + Chawner, Sergeant, 156, 200 + + Chelmsford, Lord, 127 + + Cheetahs, 265 + + Chobe river, 92, 105, 107 + + Churchill, Lord Randolph, 185 + + Cigar, the Hottentot, 74, 78 + + Civilization--T. Roosevelt's views on softening influences + of urban developments, 243 + + Clarkson, Mr., 115, 118; + F. C. Selous' tribute, 123 + + Clary, Comte Justinien, 273 + + Coghlan, Charles, 257 + + Coillard, Mr. and Mrs., 170 + + Colchester family, the, 57 + + Colchester, Miss--reminiscences of F. C. Selous' life at Wiesbaden, 57 + + Colchester, Mr. Charles, 58 _et seq._ + + Colchester, Edward, 153 + + Colenbrander, Col. Johan--biographical note, 212; + organises native regiment for defence of Bulawayo, 212 + + Colenso, Miss--"History of the Zulu War," 126 + + Collison, H. C., 123, 133, 155, 370 + + Colonists and pioneers--Roosevelt's views, 243 + + Coloration, protective, 261 _et seq._ + + Colquhoun, Mr. A. R., 178, 180 + + Congress of Field Sports (Vienna), Second, 273 + + Coombe Abbey--F. C. Selous raids heronry at, 37, 53 + + Cooper, Mr. Frank, 157 + + Cormack, 255 + + Coryndon, Mr., 155 + + Courtney, Mr, W. L., 237 + + Craven, Lord, 53 + + Crawford, George, 245 + + Cricket--F. C. Selous' love of, 358 + + Crocodiles, 143 + + Crook, Dr., 133 + + Cross, Mr., 115, 118 + + Cumming, Roualeyn Gordon, 65, 67 + + Cuninghame, 103, 267 _et seq._ + + Cunliffe, Gen., 342 + + Curtis, Col., 190 + + Cycling--F. C. Selous' energy, 359 + + + Danford, Consul, 205, 233, 369 + + Daniel (Hottentot waggon driver), 159 + + Darnell, Rev. Charles, 13, 25, 29 + + Dartnell, Lieut., 320 + + Dawson, Mr. James, 155 + + Deer--Selous' hunting trips to North America, 228 _et seq._, 245, + 251 _et seq._, 257 + (see also Antelopes, Reindeer, etc.) + + Delagoa Bay--Selous' trip in 1896, 223 + + Delamere, Lord, 192 + + Delmar, Monsieur, 18 _et seq._ + + Dett valley, 84, 90 + + Donovan, Capt., 200 + + Dorehill, 68, 96-7, 99, 107, 146 + + Driscoll, Col., 300 et seq.; + on East African campaign, 338; + on F. C. Selous, 345 + + Drummond, 103, 223, 226 + + Dunn, John, 127 _et seq._ + + Durnford, Col.--"History of the Zulu War," 126 + + Durand, Ethel, 133 + + + Eagleson, Mr., 211 + + Edgelow, Dr., 186 + + Egerton of Tatton, Lord, 368 + + Egerton, Hon. Maurice, 368 + + Elani, a Somali, 284 + + Elands, 147 + + Elands, Giant, 275 + + Elephants--F. C. Selous asks Lobengula's permission to hunt + in Matabele country, 73; + Finaughty's experiences, 76; + Selous' early experiences, 78 _et seq._, 94 _et seq._; + his observations on hunting in hot weather, 95; + dangers of hunting discussed, 102; + Selous' trips to Zambesi: + disappointed at their disappearance, 107, 113; + native drives, 107 _et seq._; + Quabeet (Mr. Wood's servant) killed by, 116; + Selous' successful hunting on the Hanyane river, 115 _et seq._; + his narrow escape from a cow elephant, 117; + narrow escapes in 1884, 155; + Selous kills his last, 186; + his finest, 186 + + Elstob, Mr., 73 + + Emin Pasha relief expedition, 133 + + Essexvale, 208 _et seq._ + + Evans, Lance-Corpl., 349 + + Evans, Pte., 349 + + + Fairlie, W., 107 + + Fashoda incident, 362 + + Ferreira, 181 + + Fife, Duke of, 373 + + Finaughty, William, 75, 76, 102; + Mr. Harrison's recollections, 76 + + Flight, Dr. Walter, 53 + + Football at Rugby, 31 + + Forbes, Major, 179 + + Forman, Antony, 142 + + Foster, Mr., 211 + + Fountaine, Mr. A. C., 157 + + Franco-German War (1870)--F. C. Selous on German barbarities, 60, 62 + + Francis, Mr. C. K., 53 + + French, Mr., 122; death of, 124, 364 + + Frere, Sir Bartle, 138 + + Freyer, Mr., 279 + + + Galton, Sir Francis, 65, 66 + + Gambo (Lobengula's son-in-law), 202 + + Garden, Lieut., 91 + + Geange, Joseph, 255 + + Gemsbuck, 120, 121 + + Gerard, Jules, 103, 189 + + Germany--T. Roosevelt's letters to Selous on the war, 324, 327 + + Giffard, J., 75 + + Gifford, Col. the Hon. Maurice, 213 + + Giraffes, 69, 91, 121 + + Goats, wild, 207 + + Gonyi, falls of, 170 + + Goold-Adams, Col., 201 _et seq._ + + Goulden, Mr., 115, 118 + + Graham, Bob, 229, 232 + + Grant, Mr., 148 + + Grandy, Lieut. (R.N.), 99 _et seq._ + + Greenhill-Gardyne, Col., 237 + + Grey, Capt., 213 + + Grey, Sir Edward, 273, 276 + + Grey, George, 280 + + Grimsey, Island of, 292 + + Griqualand--F. C Selous' first trading trip, 68 + + Grootboom, John, 216 + + Guest, Major, 303 _et seq._ + + Guns and rifles, 67, 68, 87, 354 + + Gwai river, 79 + + + Haines, Capt. R. M.--account of Selous' life in East African + campaign, 346 + + Hanyane river--successful elephant hunting trip (1878), 116 + + Hargraves, Lieut., 309 + + Harris, Capt. Cornwallis, 65 + + Harrison, Mr. G. L.--recollections of Mr. Finaughty, 76 + + Hartebeest, Liechtenstein's, 113, 147, 155 + + Hartley, the elephant hunter, 75 + + Heany, Mr. Maurice, 208 + + Helm, Mr., 208 + + Heyman, Capt., 181 + + Highland sport, 206 + + Hill, Mr. Berkeley, 12, 29 + + Hill, Clifford, 190, 191 + + Hill, Harold D., 190, 191 + + Hippopotami, 136; Lobengula's dispute with Selous over killing of, 151 + + Hodges, Mrs. (Florence Selous; "Locky"), 12, 56 + + Hofmeyr, Jan, 235 + + Hoehnel, Von, 226 + + Holgate, Mr. William, 10 + + Holgate of York, Archbp., 11 + + Honey-buzzards, 58 + + Horner, Mr., 99 _et seq._, 107 + + Hoskins, Major-Gen. A. R., 342 + + Hounds, wild, 265 + + Howley, Mr., 255 + + Hoyos, the three Counts, 369 + + "Hunter's Wanderings in Africa, A"--extracts, 69, 79, 84, 92, + 95 _et seq._, 99, 105, 108 _et seq._, 117, 122; publication, 139 + + Hutton, Gen. Sir Edward--account of capture of Cetawayo, 127 + + Hyenas--F. C. Selous on their cries, 71 + + + Iceland--F. C. Selous' bird-nesting trip, 288 + + Impali river, 148 + + Indian troops--conduct in East African campaign, 321 + + Inxnozan, 213 + + + Jacobs, Petrus, 75, 190 + + Jackson, Sir Frederick, 103 + + Jackson, Mr., 210, 213 + + Jameson, Mr. J. A., 133, 157 + + Jameson, Mr. James Sligo, 133, 136, 153; + biographical sketch, 133 + + Jameson, Dr. L. S., 176, 201-2 + + Jameson Raid, 210, 372 + + Jenner, Corpl., 308 + + Jennings family, 75 + + Jersey, Selous' visit to, 286 + + Johnson, Mr. Frank, 172 + + Jollie, Mrs. Ethel Colquhoun--on settlers' prospects in Rhodesia, 221 + + Jones, Mrs. C. A. (Sybil Selous; "Dei"), 12 + + Jones, Mrs. R. F. (Ann Selous), 5, 12; + notes on early life of Selous family, 5 _et seq._; + illustrates "A Hunter's Wanderings in Africa," 138; + on F. C. Selous' character, 361 + + Juckes, Mrs. Frank--incident of F. C. Selous' school days, 13 + + Judd, William, 77, 103, 190, 267 _et seq._, 282, 324, 365 + + Kennedy, J., 14 _et seq._, 31 + + Keppel, a forester, 58 + + Kerr, Walter Montague, 152 + + Khama, chief, 120 _et seq._, 144, 198 + + Kilimanjaro, operations round, 331 _et seq._ + + Kingsley, Mr., 107 + + Kirk, the explorer, 160 + + Kitchener, Col., 309 + + Kitchener, Lord, 301 + + Kitchener, Mr., 39, 53 + + Knight, Sergt., 349 + + Knoch, Herr, 57 + + Koodoos, 177 + + Konze: see Hartebeest (Liechtenstein's), 113 + + Kraut, Major, 341 + + + Labouchere, Mr., 185, 218, 221 + + Laer, 141, 145, 148 _et seq._ + + Lagden, Sir Godfrey, 132 + + Lamb, Mr. P. H., 348-9 + + Lang, Mr. Arthur, 67 + + Lanyon, Sir Owen, 132, 138 + + Lange, Friedrich de, 142 + + Leask, Mr. Thomas, 75, 143, 153, 370 + + Legge, Capt. the Hon. Gerald, 324 + + Legion of Frontiersmen, 300 _et seq._ + + Leigh, Mr. Boughton ("Lowden Beigh")--F. C. Selous poaches + on his estate, 41 _et seq._ + + Leitch, Major, 314 + + Leopards, 103, 146, 147, 208 + + "Leroux, John"--F. C. Selous' account of early adventures + contributed to boys' magazine under pseudonym of, 13 _et seq._, + 30 _et seq._ + + Lettow-Vorbeck, Col. von, 340 _et seq._, 350 + + Leveson ("The Old Shikari"), 226 + + Lewanika, 158, 169, 170, 369 + + Liechtenstein, Prince Henry, 362 + + Lions--F. C. Selous' first encounter with, 73; + Piet Jacobs and, 75; + Finaughty's view of dangers of hunting, 77; + Selous shoots his first lion, 96; + Selous' encounter on Ramokwebani river with an old male lion, 99; + adventure at Pelatse, 101; + dangers of hunting discussed, 102 _et seq._; + Selous kills a lioness near Gwenia, 119; + exploits during Kalahari trip (1879), 121 _et seq._; + encounter on the Notwani river, 143; + in Mashunaland, 144; + Laer's exploit, 149; + Selous kills his third largest specimen, 149; + adventure on return from Umliwan's kraal, 183; + number shot by Selous, 184; kills his last, 186; + Selous' position as a lion hunter, 189; + leading hunters, 190 _et seq._; + custom of awarding lion to one drawing first blood, 192 _et seq._; + Selous greatest authority on, 193 _et seq._; + T. Roosevelt's success in East Africa, 268; + Selous' experiences in East Africa, 273, 282 _et seq._; + Judd's account of adventure in Gwas N'yiro bush, 282 + + Livingstone, David, 29, 51, 57, 66, 75, 150, 160, 195 + + Lobengula, King of the Matabele, 55, 73, 79, 107, 115, 132, 154, 172; + incidents with Selous, 55, 73, 79, 151, 175; + and opening up of Mashunaland, 175; + Matabele rising and flight, 197-204; + and "Umlimo," 211 + + Loch, Sir Henry, 175, 180 + + Loch Buie, 206 + + "Locky": see Hodges, Mrs. + + "Lowden Beigh": see Leigh, Mr. Boughton + + Lyell, Mr. Denis, 348 + + + MacColl, Scotch keeper, 206 + + Macfarlane, Capt., 214 + + Maclaine of Lochbuie, the, 206 + + MacMillan, Mr. W. N., 271, 279, 326, 346, 368 + + MacMillan river--F. C. Selous' hunting trips on, 251 et seq., 257 + + Maddy, Miss Gladys: see Selous, Mrs. Frederick Courtenay + + Mainwaring, Capt., 217 + + Makori-kori, 173 + + Ma-kwayki, 151 + + Mamele, chief of the Barotsi, 124 + + Manica--fighting between British and Portuguese, 180 _et seq._ + + Mandy, Frank, 69, 141 + + Manyami region, 147, 157 + + Mapondera, chief of Makori-kori, 173 + + Marchand, Col., 362 + + Marancinyan, a Barotsi chief, 166 + + Marter, Major, 127 + + Mashukulumbwe--Selous attracted by country of, 120, 131; + experiences in 1888; + details of attack on his camp and his escape, 160 _et seq._ + + Mashunaland--Selous' hunting expedition in 1882-3, 144; + Selous obtains mineral concessions from Mapondera and statement + disowning Portuguese rule, 173; + British occupation, 173 _et seq._; + construction of the road, 176 _et seq._; + Selous arranges treaties with native chiefs, 179; + progress in opening up, 184; + Matabele rising (1893), 197 _et seq._; + second rising, 209-18; + Selous' views as to future of the country, 218; + extract from report of Mashunaland Agency (1917), 219 + + Mashuna tribe--almost destroyed by Matabele, 199 + + Massi-Kessi, 181 + + Matabeleland--elephant hunting, 73 _et seq._, 144, 157; + concessions to British South Africa Coy., 175; + rising of 1893, 197 _et seq._; + Selous returns to manage land and gold company at Essexvale, 208; + second rising, 209 _et seq._; + Selous' views as to future, 218 + + Mashunaland, occupation of: see Mashunaland + + Matzchie, 262 + + Maxwell, Mrs., 12 + + Maziwa, chief, 172 + + Mazoe river--gold-prospecting expedition, 172 + + McKinley, President, 241 + + McLeod of McLeod, 107; + account of Sepopo's elephant drives, 107; + escape from a buffalo on the Nata, 110; + on native common sense, 129 + + Meinertzhagen, Col. R.--notes on East African campaign, 304, 306, + 309, 325, 350 + + Mellis, Capt., 190 + + Mendonca, chief of Shakundas, 113 + + Mendose, a Kafir, 83 + + Miles, Lieut., 312 + + Millais, Capt. G. de C., 323 + + Miller, Mr., 107, 120, 124, 125, 136 + + Minenga, a Batonga chief, 161 + + Minyama, 73, 111 + + Missionaries--F. C. Selous and, 372 + + Mitchell, Mr., 200 + + Moncrieff, W., 229 + + Monzi, a Batonga chief, 160, 166 + + Moose, 228 _et seq._, 245, 252, 255, 257-8 + + Morley, Mr. John, 239 + + Morier, Lieut., 181 + + Morkel, Mr. A. R.--tribute to Selous, 196 + + Morris, 141 + + Motoko, chief, 179, 180 + + Mouflon, 207, 248 + + Mount Darwin, 173 + + Mucklow, Private, 314 + + Mule-deer, 229, 232 + + Mull, Isle of--seal and otter hunting, 206 + + Mundy, Corpl., 202 + + Mwemba, chief of the Batongas, 113, 159 + + Mzilikatse, 76 + + + Napier, Col., 217 + + Natives--Selous on arm-chair critics of colonists, 101; + reasoning powers and common sense, 129; + obeisance before Lewanika in front of strangers, 170; + and tunnels, 369 + + Nelson, Lord, 7 + + Neros, the, 115 + + Neuchatel--the Institution Roulet, 55 + + Neumann, Mr. Arthur, 102; + biographical note, 260; + Selous on, 259 + + Newfoundland--F. C. Selous' hunting trips, 245, 255 + + Niekerk, Capt. van, 213, 214 + + Niemand, Berns, 143 + + Noble, Mr. Heatley, 289, 316, 368; + notes of trip to Iceland with F. C. Selous, 289 + + Normandy--F. C. Selous' visit; correspondence with T. Roosevelt, 286 + + Northey, Gen., 341 + + Norway--hunting in, 233; + F. C. Selous' trip, 260 + + Nottman, Scotch keeper, 206 + + Nuta, a Kafir, 85 _et seq._ + + Nyala, 222 _et seq._ + + Nyemyezi, 202 + + + Oberlander, Phil, 276 + + Osgood, Prof., 251, 253 + + Oswell, William Cotton, 65, 66 + + Otter hunting, 206 + + Owen, Mr., 112 _et seq._ + + + Page, Gertrude, 220 + + Paget, Col., 190 + + Paul (a Zulu), 159, 161 _et seq._, 168 + + Pease, Sir Alfred, 191, 193, 268 _et seq._; 355; + notes on hunting and hunters, 191; + and President Roosevelt's trip to E. Africa, 268 _et seq._; + on Selous, 355 + + Pennefather, Col., 178 + + Percival, Mr. A. B., 190 + + Phillips, Mr. G. A., 370 + + Pike, Mr. Warburton, 274 + + Pilton Range manor house--bird-nesting at, 34 + + Plumer, Sir Herbert, 217 + + Pond, Major, 197 + + Portuguese--claims to Mashunaland, 173; + fighting in Manica, 180-3 + + Poulton, Prof., 262, 264 + + Protective coloration, 261 _et seq._ + + + Quabeet (Mr. Wood's Kafir servant)--killed by an elephant, 116 + + + Radclyffe, Capt. C. E., 367 + + Rainey, Paul, 192 + + Ramaqueban river, 73 + + Red deer, long-faced, 207 + + Reed-rat, 170 + + Regent's Park ice disaster (1867), 45 + + Reindeer--hunting trip in Norway, 260 + + Rhine--F. C. Selous swims river to retrieve wild duck, 57 + + Rhinoceroses, 103 + + Rhinoceroses, white, 154 + + Rhodes, Cecil, 174-5, 195, 217, 241; + and the occupation of Mashunaland, 174 _et seq._; + Selous' tribute, 174; + Lobengula and, 175; + his exploitation of Selous, 195; + T. Roosevelt and, 241 + + Rhodesia--Rhodes' tribute to Selous, 196 + _See also_: Mashunaland; + Selous' views on its future, 218; + Author on colonists' difficulties, 219 + + Rider Haggard, Mr. H., 236 + + Rinderpest, 183, 209, 213 + + Rochhart, Herr, 59 + + Rooyen, Cornelis van, 156 + + Roosevelt, Theodore--correspondence with Selous: on family ties + and the wandering instinct, 225 _et seq._; + on Selous' hunting trip in America, 230; + ranching, 231; + on America and Hungary as deer-hunting countries, 233; + on the Boer War, 240 _et seq._; + on Selous' "African Nature Notes and Reminiscences," 261, 264; + reply to Selous on the attempt on his (Roosevelt's) life, 265; + on his own hunting trip to East Africa, 267 _et seq._; + on Selous' misgivings as to his age and African hunting, 279; + on Normandy and Normans, 286; + on Germany and the war, 324; + tribute to Selous, 373 + East African hunting tour, 267 + _et seq._ + + Roosevelt, Kermit, 267, 280 _et seq._, 325, 327 + + Rothschild, Lord, 275 + + Royal Fusiliers, 25th, 304, 306 _et seq._, 342-3 + + Royal Geographical Society, 158, 173, 194 + + Rugby School--F. C. Selous' career at, 29 _et seq._; + football at, 31; + "house-washing," 32; + his poaching and bird-nesting exploits, 34 _et seq._; + Canon Wilson's reminiscences, 50 _et seq._; + F. C. Selous lectures at, 297 + + Rungius, Carl, 251, 253 + + Ruthven (Mr. Jameson's servant), 136 + + + Sadlier, Mr., 68, 74 + + St. Hubert, Society of, 9 + + Salisbury, Lord, 173 + + Salzburg, 59 + + Sardinia--F. C. Selous' trip after mouflon, 248 + + Saunders, Robert, 245 + + Saunderson, Capt. and Mrs., 270 + + Schwarz, Piet, 75 + + Science--British official neglect of, 194 + + Seal hunting, 206 + + Secheli, 68-9 + + Sell, a colonist, 121, 125 + + Selous family--origins, 2 + + Selous, Mr. Angiolo, 3, 5, 6, 11 + + Selous, Ann: see Jones, Mrs. R. F. + + Selous, Mr. Edmund, 3, 12; + notes on parents and uncles, 3 + + Selous, Florence: see Hodges, Mrs. + + Selous, Frederick Courtenay--origins of family, 1 _et seq._; + birth, 12; + education and school days,12-55; + experiences at Bruce School, Tottenham, 12 _et seq._; + at Rev. C. Darnell's School, Belton, 25 _et seq._; + at Rugby, 29-55; + incident with labourer at Pilton Range manor house, 35; + raids heronry at Coombe Abbey, 37, 53; + incident with Mr. Boughton Leigh's keeper, 41 _et seq._; + experience in Regent's Park ice disaster (1867), 45; + Canon Wilson's reminiscences of him at Rugby, 50 _et seq._; + studies medicine on the Continent, 55 _et seq._; + at Institution Roulet, Neuchatel, 55; + at Wiesbaden, 56; + swims Rhine to retrieve wild duck, 57; + rescues Miss Colchester in ice accident, 57; + incident with German forest keeper, 58; + visits Salzburg in Austria, 59; + visit to Vienna, 63; + attends medical classes at University College Hospital (London), 64; + influence of literature of big-game hunting, 65; + first visit to Africa, 67 _et seq._; + visits Diamond Fields and Griqualand, 67-8; + meets Mr. William Williams, 68; + visits Secheli's kraals, 69; + gunpowder mishap, 69; + lost in the bush for four days and three nights, 69; + first encounter with lions, 73; + incident with Lobengula over request to hunt elephants, 73; + first elephant-hunting experiences, 78 _et seq._, 94 _et seq._; + second incident with Lobengula, 79; + narrow escape from an elephant, 84 _et seq._; + return to Bulawayo, 90; + expedition to Zambesi and Chobe rivers, 91 _et seq._; + encounter with fierce buffalo cow, 92; + shoots his first lion, 96; + decides to return home, 98; + returns to South Africa (1876), 99; + hunting trips on Tati, Shashi, and Ramokwebani rivers, 99; + encounter with old male lion, 99; + meets George Westbeech, 101; + adventure with lions at Pelatse, 101; + views of relative danger of hunting different kinds of big game, + 102 _et seq._; + escapes from buffaloes, 105 _et seq._, 108; + trip to Zambesi (1877), 107; + disappointment with his prospects, 112, 114; + trip down the Zambesi with Mr. Owen, 112 _et seq._; + ill-health, 114; + hunting trip in Mashuna country, 115 _et seq._; + meets Jan Viljoen, 115; + successful elephant hunting on Hanyane river, 116 _et seq._; + narrow escape from cow elephant, 117; + kills a lioness near Gwenia, 119; + trip through the Kalahari (1879), 120 _et seq._; + attacked by low fever at Diamond Fields, 125; + reminiscences of Cetawayo, 128; + and the Zulu War, 130; + hunting trip in Mashuna country, 133, 135; + and the Transvaal War (1881), 136; + returns to England, 137; + arrives in South Africa, 141; + treks northward, 141; + encounter with lioness, 143; + trip to Mashunaland and Matabeleland, 144; + encounters with lions, 144, 149; + dispute with Lobengula over killing of hippopotami, 151; + depressed at state of finances, 152; + successful elephant hunting, 155; + trip to Mashunaland with J. A. Jameson, Fountaine, and Cooper, + 157 _et seq._; + accidents, 157-8; + trip beyond Zambesi, 158; + trouble with Barongas, Barotsi, and Mashukulumbwe, 159-69; + visit to Lewanika, 169; + guides gold expedition to Mazoe river, 172; + secures concessions from Mapondera, 173; + stormy interview with Portuguese governor at Tete, 173; + and the occupation of Mashunaland, 173 _et seq._; + Selous' road through Mashunaland, 174-81; + guides pioneer expedition, 175 _et seq._; + visits Lobengula, 175; + negotiates treaties with Mashuna chiefs, 179; + conducts stores to British garrison at Manica during trouble + with Portuguese, 181; + encounter with lions near Umliwan's kraal, 183; + terminates engagement with British South Africa Coy., 186; + kills his finest lion, 186; + his place as a lion hunter discussed, 189; + his exploitation by Cecil Rhodes, 195; + engagement to Miss Gladys Maddy, 197; + part in the first Matabele rising, 197-204; + wounded, 202; + returns to England, 204; + marriage and honeymoon, 205; + purchases house at Worplesdon, 205; + visit to Scotland, 206; + visit to Asia Minor, 207; + goes to Essexvale, Matabeleland, to manage estate, 208; + work during second Matabele rising, 209 _et seq._; + escape from Matabele after horse had bolted, 214; + criticised by Truth in connexion with Bulawayo Field Force, 221; + trip to Delagoa Bay, 222; + return to England, 224; + visit to Asia Minor, 227; + visit to Wyoming, 229; + visits Wiesbaden and Hungary, 233; + attitude towards Boer War, 233-245; + bird-nesting trip to Hungary, 245; + trips to Canada and Newfoundland, 245; + trip to Asia Minor, 247; + to Sardinia, 248; + first trip to British East Africa, 248; + trip to the Yukon, 251; + third trip to Newfoundland, 255; + visit to Bosnia, 257; + second trip to Yukon territory, 257; + bird-nesting trip to Asia Minor, 259; + reindeer hunting in Norway, 260; + advice to Mr. Roosevelt as to East African hunting trip, 267; + trip to East Africa with W. N. MacMillan, 272; + represents England at Congress of Field Sports, Vienna, 273; + trip to Sudan after Giant Eland, 275; + ill-health and operation, 279; + second trip to East Africa with MacMillan, 279; + incident with lion in Gwas N'yiro bush, 282; + kills his last buffalo, 284; + trip to Jersey and Normandy, 286; + visit to Iceland with Heatley Noble, 289; + lectures at Rugby, 297; + anxiety to serve during the Great War, 299 _et seq._; + serves as special constable at Pirbright, 301; + service in East Africa, 304-50; + experiences during attack on Bukoba, 305; + invalided, undergoes operation in England, and returns + to East Africa, 338; + killed in action at Beho-Beho, 344; + Capt. R. M. Haines' account of his life in East Africa, 346; + grave, 349 + Letters + --to his mother: + while at Rugby, 29; + on his medical studies at Neuchatel, 55; + on butterfly catching at Salzburg, 59; + on Franco-German War and German barbarities, 60, 62; + expressing disappointment with prospects, 112-15, 152; + death of Mr. Wood's servant Quabeet, 116; + Zulu War, 130; + occupation of Mashunaland, 174, 177, 179; + engagement with Portuguese at Massi-Kessi, 181; + development of Mashunaland, 184; + --to his sister "Locky": + on his future career, 56; + --to his wife: + on first Matabele rising, 201; + East African campaign, 342; + --to Abel Chapman, 249, 285, 295, 296, 300, 340; + --to W. L. Courtney on Boer War, 237; + --to J. G. Millais: + on American hunting trip, 232; + Boer War, 235; + Newfoundland hunting trips, 247, 255; + bird-nesting trips, 249; + Yukon trips, 253, 258; + A. Neumann, 259; + East African trips, 272, 383; + Vienna exhibition, 274; + Sudanese trip, 275; + East African campaign, 319, 328, 331; + --to Mrs. Millais: + on his prospects of acceptance for war service, 303; + --to Heatley Noble on East African campaign, 316; + --to Sir A. Pease on Roosevelt's trip, 269; + --to The Speaker on Boer War, 239; + --to The Times: + on the occupation of Mashunaland, 175; + on the Boer War 234, 237 + Appearance, 359 + Bird-nesting activities: see Birds + Character, 2, 352 + Elephant hunting: see Elephants + Family and home life, 224 _et seq_.; 368 + Lion hunting: see Lions + Literary preferences, 366 + Modesty, 361 + Observation, accuracy of, 52, 264 + Poaching adventures, 26, 34, 37, 41, 58 + Restlessness, spirit of, 365 + Senses, acuteness of, 51 + Shooting powers, 353, 356 + Telling stories, capacity for, 360 + Tributes, 196, 344-5, 348, 355, 373 + + Selous, Mrs. Frederick Courtenay (nee Miss [Gladys] Maddy), 197; + accompanies Selous to Essexvale, Matabeleland, 208; + Y.M.C.A. work at Havre, 304 + + Selous, Mr. Frederick Lokes (father to F. C. Selous), 3; + note by Mr. Edmund Selous, 3; + note by Mrs. R. F. Jones (daughter), 5; + reminiscences, 7 _et seq._ + + Selous, Mrs. Frederick Lokes (mother to F. C. Selous), 3; + note by Mr. Edmund Selous, 3; + note by Mrs. Jones (daughter), 10; + death, 285 + + Selous, Captain Fred (son), 297, 323, 331, 336 + + Selous, Gideon, 2, 12 + + Selous, H. C. (uncle to F. C. Selous), 3, 5, 6, 7, 12 + + Selous, Harold (son), 298 + + Selous, Sybil: see Jones, Mrs. C. A. + + Selous Road, 174-9 + + "Selous Syndicate," 174 + + Sepopo, chief of Barotsi, 101, 107, 130; + elephant drives, 107 + + Shakundas, 113 + + Shamedza, 160 + + Shampondo, Batonga chief, 159 + + Shangans, 199 + + Sheldon, Mr. Charles, 252, 254, 263 + + Sheppard, Gen., 330, 334 + + Shepstone, Sir T., 137 _et seq._ + + Sherborn, Ann: see Selous, Mrs. Frederick Lokes + + Shimmin, Rev. Isaac--note on F. C. Selous, 369 + + Shikari Club, 367 + + Shiras, 263 + + Shoma, a Batonga chief, 167 + + Sikabenga, a Barotsi chief, 160, 166, 169, 199 + + Sinoia, caves of, 157 + + Situngweesa, 199 + + Sitanda, chief of Manicas, 113 + + Skinner, Peter, 69 + + Slatin Pasha, 362 + + Smart, Samuel, 255 + + Smuts, Gen. J., 328 _et seq._, 342; + account of fighting at Beho-Beho, 344; + on difficulties of E. African campaign, 350 + + Smyrna, 227, 247 + + "Snake-stone," 142 + + Somaliland--lion hunting, 192 + + South African Conciliation Committee--F. C. Selous' letter to, + 237 _et seq._ + + _Speaker, The_--F. C. Selous' letter on the Boer War, 239 + + Spiritualism, 153, 370 + + Spreckley, Col., 218 + + Staden, Roelef van, 200, 237 + + Stanier, Sir Beville, 247 + + Stanley, H. M., 133 + + Steele, General Sir Thomas, 66 + + "Stempel, Dr.", 34, 43 + + Stewart, Gen., 309, 334 + + Stigand, Capt., 103, 263-4 + + Stirling, Major, 249 + + Stockley, Cynthia, 220 + + Stonham, Col., 239 + + Stroud, a guide, 245 + + Sudan--F. C. Selous' trip after giant elands, 275 + + "Sunshine and Storm in Rhodesia," 217, 221 _et seq._, 224 + + Suni, Livingstone's, 223 + + Swartz, Martinus, 122 + + Swartz, Paul, 192 + + Swazis--boundary dispute with Zulus, 126 + + Swythamley, 247, 248, 279 + + + Tarlton, Mr., 103, 325 + + Taveta, engagement near, 330 + + Taylor, Pte., 349 + + Tchangani river--Lobengula's forces defeated (1893), 202 + + Tea--F. C. Selous' preference for, 294, 347, 352 + + Tennant, H. J., 301 _et seq._ + + Texel Island, 299 + + Thayer, 264 + + Thomas, Mr., a miner, 172 + + Thomas, David, 160 + + Thomas, Reuben, 67 + + Thomas, Roderick, 257 + + Thornton, Lieut. Edward--account of death of Captain Fred Selous, 297 + + Tighe, Gen., 304 + + _Times, The_--Selous' letters to: + on the occupation of Mashunaland, 175; + on the Boer War (1899-1901), 234, 237 + History of the War quoted, 342 _et seq._ + + Tippu-Tib, 134 + + "Tombe Abbey "--F. C. Selous raids heronry at, 37, 53 + + Transvaal--Boer agression against Zulus, 126; + Boer War (1881), 136 _et seq._; + Boer War (1899-1901), 234 _et seq._ + + "Travel and Adventure in South-East Africa," 146, 150 _et seq._, 164, + 166 _et seq._, 183, 222 + + Trimen, Mr., 142 + + Tritton, Mr. Claude, 271 + + _Truth_--attacks on the Chartered Company, 221 + + Tweedie, Capt., 278 + + Tyrrel, Mr., 253 + + + Ubandini, the Swazi king, 129 + + Umbilini, a Swazi chieftain, 127 + + "Umlimo," or god of the Makalakas, 210 + + Umlugula, a Matabele chief, 210 + + Umsheti, 217 + + Umtasa, chief of Manica, 178 + + United States--official support of science, 194 _et seq._; + Selous' lecturing tour cancelled, 197; + hunting trips, 228 _et seq._; + campaigns against Mexico compared to Boer War by T. Roosevelt, 242; + and the Great War, 325 + Ranching--T. Roosevelt's letter to F. C. Selous, 231 + + Usher, Mr., 210 + + + Vanderbyl, Capt., P. B., 260, 367 + + Van Deventer, Gen., 332, 334, 336 + + Vardon, the hunter, 66 + + Vienna, 63; second international congress of field sports, 273 + + Viljoen, Jan, 74, 75, 115, 118 + + + Wahle, Gen., 341 + + Wallace, Mr. H. F., 262, 355 + + Wankie, 96 + + Wapiti, 228 _et seq._, 232 + + War, the Great, 299 _et seq._; + T. Roosevelt's views, 324 + + Ward, Herbert, 135 + + Ward, Mr. Rowland, 222 + + Wart-hogs, 147 + + Watmough, Mr. W., 348 + + Webb, Major, 309, 312 _et seq._ + + Wells, John, 246 + + Westbeech, George, 101, 159, 166 + + Weyand, Karl, 148 + + White, Capt., 312 + + White, Mr. Montague, 241 + + Whittall, Sir William, 205, 369 + + Wiesbaden, 56, 233 + + Wilson, Major, 203 + + Wilson, Mr. J. M. (afterwards Canon Wilson), 29; + reminiscences of F. C. Selous at Rugby, 50 _et seq._ + + Williams, Mr., 273 + + Williams, Capt., 321 + + Williams, Bryan, 277 + + Williams, Mr. William, 68 + + Williams, Sir Ralph--tribute to F. C. Selous, 55 + + Windley, Capt., 214 + + Wingate, Sir F., 276 + + Wissels, Mr., 223 + + Wolf, the Artist, 66 + + Wolseley, Sir Garnet, 127, 129, 138 + + Wolverton, Lord, 190 + + Wolves, 258 + + Wood, George, 75, 79, 90 _et seq._, 110, 112, 115, 118 + + Worplesdon, 60, 205 + + + X, Col., 226 + + + Yellowstone Park--P. Oberlander and the game wardens, 277 + + Yukon territory--F. C. Selous' hunting trips, 251 _et seq._ + + + Zambesi river--Selous' hunting trips, 107, 146, 169, 183 + + Zambesi, falls of, 91 + + Zulu War, 125 _et seq._ + + Zumbo, 146 + + Zwecker, 67 + + + PRINTED BY + WILLIAM BRENDON AND SON, LTD. + PLYMOUTH, ENGLAND + + + + +Transcriber's Notes + +Obvious punctuation errors repaired and missing letters restored from +the context. + +Hyphen added: "ant[-]hill" (p. 150), "Goold[-]Adams" (pp. 201, 203), +"home[-]sick" (p. 13), "re[-]read" (p. 282), "re[-]visit" (p. 185), +"school[-]days" (p. 17), "up[-]stream" (p. 246). + +Hypen removed: "breech[-]loading" (p. 114), "farm[-]house" (p. 293). + +The following alternate spellings are used and have not been changed: +"Sode Gara" / "Sode-Garra" (pp. 121, 154), "Se-quoi-quoi" / +"Se-whoi-whoi" (pp. 118, 154). + +P. 31: "skins" changed to "shins" (kicking the shins). + +P. 142: "Voortrekhers" changed to "Voortrekkers". + +P. 154: duplicate word "time" deleted (but at the same time). + +P. 177: "waggon" changed to "waggons" (simply abandon our waggons). + +P. 226: "rhinocereses" changed to "rhinoceroses" (charged by black +rhinoceroses). + +P. 229: "tractless" changed to "trackless" (vast plains and trackless +forests). + +P. 253: "missfire" changed to "misfire" (owing to a misfire). + +P. 262: "ex" changed to "Ex" (Ex-President Roosevelt). + +P. 283: "Greyv's zebra" changed to "Grevy's zebra". + +P. 323: "possiby" changed to "possibly" (Germans cannot now possibly win +the war). + +Footnote 76 (p. 323): Capt. Selous was killed on 4th January and not on +6th January according to the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. + +P. 343: "December" changed to "January" (An attack was made on the +German positions by General Smuts on January 2nd) based upon the +surrounding text. + +P. 372: "criticsms" changed to "criticisms" (his criticisms applied only to +those). + +P. 381: Index entry "Mamia" changed to "Manica". + +P. 386: Index entries "Stonham" and "Shoma" moved to correct place in +alphabetical order. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Life of Frederick Courtenay Selous, +D.S.O., by J.G. Millais + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FREDERICK COURTENAY SELOUS *** + +***** This file should be named 39581.txt or 39581.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/9/5/8/39581/ + +Produced by Moti Ben-Ari and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. 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