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diff --git a/39522-h/39522-h.htm b/39522-h/39522-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ac6bcf3 --- /dev/null +++ b/39522-h/39522-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,6482 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Rulers of the Mediterranean by Richard Harding Davis, a Project Gutenberg eBook. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +hr { + margin: 3em auto 3em auto; + height: 0px; + border-width: 1px 0 0 0; + border-style: solid; + border-color: #dcdcdc; + width: 500px; + clear: both; +} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} + +table.toc { + margin: auto; + width: 50%; +} + +td.c1 { + text-align: right; + vertical-align: top; + padding-right: 1em; +} + +td.c2 { + text-align: left; + margin-left: 0em; + padding-left: 2em; + text-indent: -2em; + padding-right: 1em; + vertical-align: top; +} + +td.c3 { + text-align: right; + padding-left: 1em; + vertical-align: bottom; +} + +td { padding: 0em 1em; } +th { padding: 0em 1em; } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + color: #999; +} /* page numbers */ + + + .center {text-align: center;} + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .gap { margin-top: 1em; } + +/* Images */ + .figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +.figleft { + clear: left; + float: left; + padding: 0; + text-align: left; + width: auto; +} + +.splitlt {float: left; + clear: left; + margin-bottom: -1em; +} + +.splitlb {float: left; + clear: left; + margin-top: 1em; +} + + .bord img { + padding: 1px; + border: 1px solid black; +} + +p.caption { + margin-top: 0; + font-size: 70%; + text-align: left; +} + +p.caption2 { + margin-top: 0; + font-size: 70%; + text-align: center; +} + + +/* Transcriber Notes */ +div.tn { + background-color: #EEE; + border: dashed 1px; + color: #000; + margin-left: 20%; + margin-right: 20%; + margin-top: 5em; + margin-bottom: 5em; + padding: 1em; +} + +/* Poetry */ + .poem { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + text-align: left; +} + + .poem span.i0 { + display: block; + margin-left: 0em; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; +} + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's The Rulers of the Mediterranean, by Richard Harding Davis + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Rulers of the Mediterranean + +Author: Richard Harding Davis + +Release Date: April 23, 2012 [EBook #39522] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE RULERS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN *** + + + + +Produced by Mark C. Orton, Linda McKeown, Julia Neufeld +(illustrations were generously made available by The +Internet Archive) and the Online Distributed Proofreading +Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 400px;"><br /><br /><br /><a name="ONE_OF_THE_CAMEL_CORPS_OF_EGYPT" id="ONE_OF_THE_CAMEL_CORPS_OF_EGYPT"></a> +<img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" width="400" height="588" alt="ONE OF THE CAMEL CORPS OF EGYPT" title="ONE OF THE CAMEL CORPS OF EGYPT" /> +<span class="caption">ONE OF THE CAMEL CORPS OF EGYPT</span> +</div> + +<h1> +The Rulers<br /> + +of<br /> + +The Mediterranean</h1> + +<h3>BY</h3> + +<h2>RICHARD HARDING DAVIS</h2> + +<p class="center">AUTHOR OF<br /> + +"THE WEST FROM A CAR-WINDOW" "GALLEGHER"<br /> +"VAN BIBBER AND OTHERS" ETC.<br /> + +ILLUSTRATED</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 100px;"> +<img src="images/titlepagedeco.jpg" width="100" height="120" alt="Publisher's Logo" title="Publisher's Logo" /> +</div> + +<p class="center">NEW YORK<br /> + +HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS<br /> + +1894</p> + + +<hr style="width: 25%;" /> + +<p class="center">Copyright, 1893, by <span class="smcap">Harper & Brothers</span>.<br /> + +<i>All rights reserved.</i></p> +<hr style="width: 25%;" /> + +<p class="center">TO<br /> + +HON. EDWARD C. LITTLE<br /> + +EX-DIPLOMATIC-AGENT AND CONSUL-GENERAL<br /> + +OF<br /> + +THE UNITED STATES TO EGYPT +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + + + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents"> +<tr><td align="right"><small>CHAP.</small></td><td align="left"> </td><td align="right"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">I</td><td align="left">THE ROCK OF GIBRALTAR</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">II</td><td align="left">TANGIER</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">III</td><td align="left">FROM GIBRALTAR TO CAIRO</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">IV</td><td align="left">CAIRO AS A SHOW-PLACE</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">V</td><td align="left">THE ENGLISHMEN IN EGYPT</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_139">139</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">VI</td><td align="left">MODERN ATHENS</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_178">178</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">VII</td><td align="left">CONSTANTINOPLE</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_198">198</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Illustrations"> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="right"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ONE_OF_THE_CAMEL_CORPS_OF_EGYPT">ONE OF THE CAMEL CORPS OF EGYPT</a></td><td align="right"><i>Frontispiece</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#THE_MAN_FROM_DETROIT">THE MAN FROM DETROIT</a></td><td align="right">5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#THE_ROCK_FROM_THE_BAY">THE ROCK FROM THE BAY</a></td><td align="right">9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#TYPES">TYPES</a></td><td align="right">13</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#GIBRALTAR_AS_SEEN_ACROSS_THE_NEUTRAL_GROUND">GIBRALTAR AS SEEN ACROSS THE NEUTRAL GROUND</a></td><td align="right">15</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#AN_ENGLISH_SENTRY">AN ENGLISH SENTRY</a></td><td align="right">19</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#A_SPANISH_SENTRY">A SPANISH SENTRY</a></td><td align="right">21</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#SIGNAL_STATION_ON_TOP-OF_THE_ROCK">SIGNAL STATION ON THE TOP OF THE ROCK</a></td><td align="right">25</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CANNONS_MASKED_BY_BUSHES">CANNONS MASKED BY BUSHES</a></td><td align="right">29</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#TEA_IN_THE_OFFICERS_QUARTERS">TEA IN THE OFFICERS' QUARTERS</a></td><td align="right">33</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BREAD_MERCHANTS_AT_THE_GATE">BREAD MERCHANTS AT THE GATE</a></td><td align="right">41</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#SANITARY_OUTFIT_DUMPING_REFUSE_OVER_THE_WALL">SANITARY OUTFIT DUMPING REFUSE OVER THE WALL</a></td><td align="right">47</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#A_WOMAN_OF_TANGIER">A WOMAN OF TANGIER</a></td><td align="right">53</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#WATER-VENDER_AT_THE_DOOR_OF_A_PRIVATE_HOUSE">WATER-VENDER AT THE DOOR OF A PRIVATE HOUSE</a></td><td align="right">57</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#A_STREET_DANCER">A STREET DANCER</a></td><td align="right">63</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#IN_THE_PRISON">IN THE PRISON</a></td><td align="right">67</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#MALTESE_PEDDLERS">MALTESE PEDDLERS</a></td><td align="right">75</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#STREET_OF_SANTA_LUCIA_MALTA">STREET OF SANTA LUCIA, MALTA</a></td><td align="right">79</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BRINDISI">BRINDISI</a></td><td align="right">85</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PILLAR_OF_CAESAR_AT_BRINDISI">PILLAR OF CÆSAR AT BRINDISI</a></td><td align="right">89</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#APPROACH_TO_ISMAILIA_BY_THE_SUEZ_CANAL">APPROACH TO ISMAÏLIA BY THE SUEZ CANAL</a></td><td align="right">93</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#STEAM-DREDGE_AT_WORK_IN_THE_SUEZ_CANAL">STEAM-DREDGE AT WORK IN THE SUEZ CANAL</a></td><td align="right">97</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BAZAR_OF_A_WORKER_IN_BRASS">BAZAR OF A WORKER IN BRASS</a></td><td align="right">105</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#GROUP_OF_NATIVES_IN_FRONT_OF_SHEPHEARDS_HOTEL">GROUP OF NATIVES IN FRONT OF SHEPHEARD'S HOTEL</a></td><td align="right">109</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#A_BRITISH_SQUARE_FORMED_IN_FRONT_OF_THE_PYRAMIDS">A BRITISH SQUARE FORMED IN FRONT OF THE PYRAMIDS</a></td><td align="right">117</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#SHADOW_OF_THE_PYRAMID_OF_CHEOPS">SHADOW OF THE PYRAMID OF CHEOPS</a></td><td align="right">123</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#A_SECTION_OF_THE_PYRAMID">A SECTION OF THE PYRAMID</a></td><td align="right">129</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#DAHABEEYAHS_ON_THE_NILE_BEFORE_CAIRO">DAHABEEYAHS ON THE NILE BEFORE CAIRO</a></td><td align="right">135</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#EGYPTIAN_INFANTRY_IN_THEIR_DIFFERENT_UNIFORMS">EGYPTIAN INFANTRY IN THEIR DIFFERENT UNIFORMS</a></td><td align="right">141</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#RIAZ_PASHA_PRIME-MINISTER_OF_EGYPT">RIAZ PASHA, PRIME-MINISTER OF EGYPT</a></td><td align="right">145</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#AN_EGYPTIAN_LANCER">AN EGYPTIAN LANCER</a></td><td align="right">149</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#TIGRANE_PASHA_MINISTER_OF_FOREIGN_AFFAIRS">TIGRANE PASHA, MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS</a></td><td align="right">153</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#A_CAMEL_CORPS_PATROL_AT_WADI_HALFA">A CAMEL CORPS PATROL AT WADI HALFA</a></td><td align="right">157</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#H._H._ABBAS_II._KHEDIVE_OF_EGYPT">H. H. ABBAS II., KHEDIVE OF EGYPT</a></td><td align="right">161</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#THE_GUN_MULE_OF_THE_MULE_BATTERY">THE GUN MULE OF THE MULE BATTERY</a></td><td align="right">165</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#LORD_CROMER_THE_ENGLISH_DIPLOMATIC_AGENT_IN_EGYPT">LORD CROMER, THE ENGLISH DIPLOMATIC AGENT IN EGYPT</a></td><td align="right">169</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#A_GUN_OF_THE_MULE_BATTERY_IN_ACTION">A GUN OF THE MULE BATTERY IN ACTION</a></td><td align="right">173</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#GREEK_SOLDIER_IN_THE_NATIONAL_ALBANIAN_UNIFORM">GREEK SOLDIER IN THE NATIONAL (ALBANIAN) UNIFORM</a></td><td align="right">179</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#GREEK_PEASANT_GIRL">GREEK PEASANT GIRL</a></td><td align="right">181</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#THE_UNIVERSITY_OF_ATHENS">THE UNIVERSITY OF ATHENS</a></td><td align="right">183</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ALBANIAN_PEASANT_WOMAN">ALBANIAN PEASANT WOMAN</a></td><td align="right">186</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ALBANIAN_PEASANT_WOMAN2">ALBANIAN PEASANT WOMAN</a></td><td align="right">187</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#GREEK_PEASANT">GREEK PEASANT</a></td><td align="right">188</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ALBANIAN_PEASANT_IN_THE_STREETS_OF_ATHENS">ALBANIAN PEASANT IN THE STREETS OF ATHENS</a></td><td align="right">189</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#POLYTECHNIC_SCHOOL">POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL</a></td><td align="right">191</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#AN_OLD_ATHENIAN_OF_THE_PRESENT_DAY">AN OLD ATHENIAN OF THE PRESENT DAY</a></td><td align="right">194</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#A_GREEK_SHEPHERD">A GREEK SHEPHERD</a></td><td align="right">195</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#GENERAL_VIEW_OF_CONSTANTINOPLE">GENERAL VIEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE</a></td><td align="right">201</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ONE_OF_THE_SULTANS_PALACES_ON_THE_BOSPORUS">ONE OF THE SULTAN'S PALACES ON THE BOSPORUS</a></td><td align="right">205</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#A_FIRE_COMPANY_OF_CONSTANTINOPLE">A FIRE COMPANY OF CONSTANTINOPLE</a></td><td align="right">209</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#STREET_DOGS_OF_CONSTANTINOPLE">STREET DOGS OF CONSTANTINOPLE</a></td><td align="right">215</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#GUARD_OF_CAVALRY_PRECEDING_THE_SULTAN_TO_THE_MOSQUE">GUARD OF CAVALRY PRECEDING THE SULTAN TO THE MOSQUE</a></td><td align="right">219</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#EXTERIOR_OF_THE_MOSQUE_OF_ST._SOPHIA">EXTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE OF ST. SOPHIA</a></td><td align="right">225</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-001.jpg" width="400" height="153" alt="THE RULERS OF THE +MEDITERRANEAN" title="THE RULERS OF THE +MEDITERRANEAN" /> +</div> + + + + +<h2>I</h2> + +<h3>THE ROCK OF GIBRALTAR</h3> + +<p>If you have always crossed the Atlantic +in the spring-time or in +the summer months, as do +most tourists, you will find +that leaving New York in the +winter is more like a relief +expedition to the north pole +than the setting forth on a +pleasure tour to the summer +shores of the Mediterranean.</p> + +<p>There is no green grass on +the hills of Staten Island, but +there is, instead, a long field of ice stretching far +up the Hudson River, and a wind that cuts into +the face, and dashes the spray up over the tugboats +in frozen layers, leaving it there like the +icing on a cake. The Atlantic Highlands are +black with bare branches and white with snow, +and you observe for the first time that men +who go down to the sea in ships know nothing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span> +of open fireplaces. An icy wind keeps the deck +as clear as a master-at-arms could do it; and sudden +storms of snow, which you had always before +associated with streets or fields, and not at all +with the decks of ships, burst over the side, and +leave the wood-work wet and slippery, and cold +to the touch.</p> + +<p>And then on the third or fourth day out the +sea grows calm, and your overcoat seems to have +taken on an extra lining; and strange people, who +apparently have come on board during the night, +venture out on the sunlit deck and inquire for +steamer chairs and mislaid rugs.</p> + +<p>These smaller vessels which run from New +York to Genoa are as different from the big +North Atlantic boats, with their twin screws +and five hundred cabin passengers, as a family +boarding-house is from a Broadway hotel. +This is so chiefly because you are sailing under +a German instead of an English flag. There +is no one so important as an English captain—he +is like a bishop in gold lace; but a German +captain considers his passengers as one large +happy family, and treats them as such, whether +they like their new relatives or not. The discipline +on board the <i>Fulda</i> was like that of a +ship of war, where the officers and crew were +concerned, but the passengers might have believed +they were on their own private yacht.</p> + +<p>There was music for breakfast, dinner, and tea; +music when the fingers of the trombonist were +frozen and when the snow fell upon the taut surface<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> +of the big drum; and music at dawn to tell +us it was Sunday, so that you awoke imagining +yourself at church. There was also a ball, and +the captain led an opening march, and the stewards +stood at every point to see that the passengers +kept in line, and "rounded up" those who +tried to slip away from the procession. There +were speeches, too, at all times, and lectures and +religious services, and on the last night out a +grand triumph of the <i>chef</i>, who built wonderful +candy goddesses of Liberty smiling upon the +other symbolic lady who keeps watch on the +Rhine, and the band played "Dixie," which it +had been told was the national anthem, and the +portrait of the German Emperor smiled down +upon us over his autograph. All this was interesting, +because it was characteristic of the Germans; +it showed their childish delight in little +things, and the same simplicity of character +which makes the German soldiers who would not +move out of the way of the French bullets dance +around a Christmas-tree. The American or the +Englishman will not do these things, because he +has too keen a sense of the ridiculous, and is +afraid of being laughed at. So when he goes to +sea he plays poker and holds auctions on the +run.</p> + +<p>There was only one passenger on board who +objected to the music. He was from Detroit, +and for the first three days remained lashed to +his steamer chair like a mummy, with nothing +showing but a blue nose and closed eyelids. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> +band played at his end of the deck, and owing to +the fingers of the players being frozen, and to +the sudden lurches of the ship, the harmony was +sometimes destroyed. Those who had an ear for +music picked up their steamer chairs and moved +to windward; but this young man, being half +dead and firmly lashed to his place, was unable +to save himself.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the fourth day, when the +concert was over and the band had gone to thaw +out, the young man suddenly sat upright and +pointed his forefinger at the startled passengers. +We had generally decided that he was dead. +"The Lord knows I'm a sick man," he said, blinking +his eyes feebly; "but if I live till midnight +I'll find out where they hide those horns, and I'll +drop 'em into the Gulf Stream, if it takes my dying +breath." He then fell over backwards, and +did not speak again until we reached Gibraltar.</p> + +<p>There is something about the sight of land after +one has been a week without it which supplies +a want that nothing else can fill; and it is +interesting to note how careless one is as to its +name, or whether it is pink or pale blue on the +maps, or whether it is ruled by a king or a colonial +secretary. It is quite sufficient that it is land. +This was impressed upon me once, on entering +New York Harbor, by a young man who emerged +from his deck cabin to discover, what all the other +passengers already knew, that we were in the upper +bay. He gave a shout of ecstatic relief and +pleasure. "That," he cried, pointing to the west,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> +"is Staten Island, but that," pointing to the right, +"is <span class="smcap">Land</span>."</p> + +<p>The first land you see on going to Gibraltar +is the Azores Islands. They are volcanic and +mountainous, and accompany the boat for a day +and a half; but they could be improved if they +were moved farther south about two hundred +miles, as one has to get up at dawn to see the +best of them. It is quite warm by this time, and +the clothes you wore in New York seem to belong +to a barbarous period and past fashion, and +have become heavy and cumbersome, and take up +an unnecessary amount of room in your trunk.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 400px;"> + +<a name="THE_MAN_FROM_DETROIT" id="THE_MAN_FROM_DETROIT"></a> +<img src="images/illus-005.jpg" width="400" height="327" alt="THE MAN FROM DETROIT" title="THE MAN FROM DETROIT" /> +<span class="caption">THE MAN FROM DETROIT</span> +</div> + +<p>And then people tell you that there is land in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> +sight again, and you find how really far you are +from home when you learn that it is Portugal, +and so a part of Europe, and not an island +thrown up by a volcano, or stolen or strayed from +its moorings at the mainland. Portugal is apparently +a high red hill, with a round white tower +on the top of it flying signal flags. Its chief industry +is the arranging of these flags by a man. +It is, on the whole, a disappointing country. +After this, everybody begins to pack and to exchange +visiting-cards; and those who are to get +off at Gibraltar are pursued by stewards and bandmasters +and young men with testimonials that +they want signed, and by the weak in spirit, who, +at the eleventh hour, think they will not go on +to Genoa, but will get off here and go on to Tangier, +and who want you to decide for them. And +which do you think would pay best, and what is +there to see in Tangier, anyway? And as that +is exactly what you are going to find out, you +cannot tell.</p> + +<p>When I left the deck the last night out the +stars were all over the heavens; and the foremast, +as it swept slowly from side to side, looked like +a black pendulum upside down marking out the +sky and portioning off the stars. And when I +woke there was a great creaking of chains, and I +could see out of my port-hole hundreds of fixed +lights and rows and double rows of lamps, so that +you might have thought the ship during the +night had run aground in the heart of a city.</p> + +<p>The first sight of Gibraltar is, I think, disappointing.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> +It means so much, and so many +lives have been given for it, and so many ships +have been sunk by its batteries, and such great +powers have warred for twelve hundred years +for its few miles of stone, that its black outline +against the sky, with nothing to measure it with +but the fading stars, is dwarfed and spoiled. It +is only after the sun begins to turn the lights +out, and you are able to compare it with the +great ships at its base, and you see the battlements +and the mouths of cannon, and the clouds +resting on its top, that you understand it; and +then when the outline of the crouching lion, that +faces all Europe, comes into relief, you remember +it is, as they say, the lock to the Mediterranean, +of which England holds the key. And even while +you feel this, and are greedily following the course +of each rampart and terrace with eyes that are +tired of blank stretches of water, some one points +to a low line of mountains lying like blue clouds +before the red sky of the sunrise, dim, forbidding, +and mysterious—and you know that it is +Africa.</p> + +<p>Spain, lying to the right, all green and amethyst, +and flippant and gay with white houses and +red roofs, and Gibraltar's grim show of battlements +and war, become somehow of little moment. +You feel that you have known them always, +and that they are as you fancied they +would be. But this other land across the water +looks as inscrutable, as dark, and as silent as the +Sphinx that typifies it, and you feel that its Pillar<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> +of Hercules still marks the entrance to the +"unknown world."</p> + +<p>Nine out of every ten of those who visit Gibraltar +for the first time expect to find an island. It +ought to be, and it would be one but for a strip +of level turf half a mile wide and half a mile long +which joins it to the sunny green hills of Spain. +But for this bit of land, which they call "the Neutral +Ground," Gibraltar would be an island, for it +has the Mediterranean to the east, a bay, and beyond +that the hills of Spain to the west, and Africa +dimly showing fourteen miles across the sea +to the south.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 690px;"><a name="THE_ROCK_FROM_THE_BAY" id="THE_ROCK_FROM_THE_BAY"></a> +<img src="images/illus-009.jpg" width="690" height="400" alt="THE ROCK FROM THE BAY" title="THE ROCK FROM THE BAY" /> +<span class="caption">THE ROCK FROM THE BAY</span> +</div> + +<p>Gibraltar has been besieged thirteen times; by +Moors and by Spaniards, and again by Moors, +and again by Spaniards against Spaniards. It +was during one of these wars between two factions +in Spain, in 1704, that the English, who +were helping one of the factions, took the Rock, +and were so well pleased with it that they settled +there, and have remained there ever since. If +possession is nine points of the law, there was +never a place in the history of the world held +with nine as obvious points. There were three +more sieges after the English took Gibraltar, one +of them, the last, continuing for four years. The +English were fighting America at the time, and +rowing in the Nile, and so did not do much towards +helping General George Elliot, who was +Governor of the Rock at that time. It would +appear to be, as well as one can judge from this +distance, a case of neglect on the part of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> +mother-country for her little colony and her six +thousand men, very much like her forgetfulness +of Gordon, only Elliot succeeded where Gordon +failed (if you can associate that word with that +name), and so no one blamed the home government +for risking what would have been a more +serious loss than the loss of Calais, had Elliot +surrendered, and "Gib" gone back to its rightful +owners, that is, the owners who have the one +point. The history of this siege is one of the +most interesting of war stories; it is interesting +whether you ever expect to visit Gibraltar or not; +it is doubly interesting when you walk the pretty +streets of the Rock to-day, with its floating population +of twenty thousand, and try to imagine +the place held by six thousand half-starved, sick, +and wounded soldiers, living at times on grass +and herbs and handfuls of rice, and yet carrying +on an apparently forlorn fight for four years +against the entire army and navy of Spain, and, +at the last, against the arms of France as well.</p> + +<p>We are apt to consider the Gibraltar of to-day +as occupying the same position to the Mediterranean +as Queenstown does to the Atlantic, a place +where passengers go ashore while the mails are +being taken on board, and not so much for their +interest in the place itself as to again feel solid +earth under their feet. There are passengers +who will tell you on the way out that you can +see all there is to be seen there in three hours. +As a matter of fact, one can live in Gibraltar for +many weeks and see something new every day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> +It struck me as being more different kinds of a +place than any other spot of land I had ever visited, +and one that changed its aspect with every +shifting of the wind, and with each rising and setting +of the sun. It is the clearing-house for three +most picturesque peoples—the Moors, in their +yellow slippers and bare legs and voluminous +robes and snowy turbans; the Spaniards, with +romantic black capes and cloaks and red sashes, +the women with the lace mantilla and brilliant +kerchiefs and pretty faces; and, mixed with these, +the pride and glory of the British army and navy, +in all the bravery of red coats and white helmets, +or blue jackets, or Highland kilts. It is a fortress +as imposing as the Tower of London, a winter +resort as pretty as St. Augustine, and a seaport +town of free entry, into which come on every tide +people of many nations, and ships flying every +flag.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 200px;"> + +<a name="TYPES" id="TYPES"></a> +<img src="images/illus-013a.jpg" width="200" height="347" alt="A TYPE" title="A TYPE" /> +<span class="caption">A TYPE</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/illus-013b.jpg" width="250" height="317" alt="A TYPE" title="A TYPE" /> +<span class="caption">A TYPE</span> +</div> + +<p>Around its base are the ramparts, like a band +of stone and steel; above them the town, rising +like a staircase, with houses for steps—yellow +houses, with light green blinds sticking out at +different angles, and with sloping red roofs meeting +other lines of red roofs, and broken by a carpeting +of green where the parks and gardens +make an opening in the yellow front of the town, +and from which rise tall palms and palmettoes, +and rows of sea-pines, and fluttering union-jacks +which mark the barracks of a regiment. Above +the town is the Rock, covered with a green +growth of scrub and of little trees below, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> +naked and bare above, stretching for several miles +from north to south, and rearing its great bulk +up into the sky until it loses its +summit in the clouds. It is never +twice the same. To-day it may +be smiling and resplendent under +a warm, brilliant sun that spreads +out each shade of green, and +shows each terrace and rampart +as clearly as though one saw it +through a glass; the sky becomes +as blue as the sea and the bay, +and the white villages of Spain +seem as near to one as the red +soldier smoking his pipe on the +mountings half-way up the Rock. +And to-morrow the whole top of the Rock may +be lost in a thick curtain of gray clouds, and the +waters of the bay will be tossing and covered with +white-caps, and the lands +about disappear from sight +as though they had sunk into +the sea during the night and +had left you alone on an +island. At times a sunset +paints the Rock a martial +red, or the moonlight softens +it, and you see only the tall +palms and the graceful balconies +and the gardens of +plants, and each rampart becomes a terrace and +each casemate a balcony. Or at night, when<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> +the lamps are lit, you might imagine yourself on +the stage of a theatre, walking in a scene set for +<i>Fra Diavolo</i>.</p> + +<p>There are no such streets or houses outside of +stage-land. It is only in stage cities that the +pavements and streets are so conspicuously clean, +or that the hanging lamps of beaten iron-work +throw such deep shadows, or that there are such +high, heavily carved Moorish doorways and mysterious +twisting stairways in the solid rock, or +shops with such queer signs, or walls plastered +with such odd-colored placards—streets where +every footfall echoes, and where dark figures suddenly +appear from narrow alleyways and cry +"Halt, there!" at you, and then "All's well" as +you pass by.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 567px;"><a name="GIBRALTAR_AS_SEEN_ACROSS_THE_NEUTRAL_GROUND" id="GIBRALTAR_AS_SEEN_ACROSS_THE_NEUTRAL_GROUND"></a> + + +<img src="images/illus-015.jpg" width="567" height="400" alt="GIBRALTAR" title="GIBRALTAR" /> +<span class="caption">GIBRALTAR AS SEEN ACROSS THE NEUTRAL GROUND</span> +</div> + +<p>Gibraltar has one main street running up and +clinging to the side of the hill from the principal +quay to the most southern point of the Rock. +Houses reach up to it from the first level of the +ramparts, and continue on up the hill from its +other side. On this street are the bazars of the +Moors, and the English shops and the Spanish +cafés, and the cathedral, and the hotels, and the +Governor's house, and every one in Gibraltar is +sure to appear on it at least once in the twenty-four +hours. But the color and tone of the street +are military. There are soldiers at every step—soldiers +carrying the mail or bearing reports, or +soldiers in bulk with a band ahead, or soldiers +going out to guard the North Front, where lies +the Neutral Ground, or to target practice, or to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> +play football; soldiers in two or threes, with their +sticks under their arms, and their caps very much +cocked, and pipes in their mouths. But these +make slow progress, for there is always an officer +in sight—either a boy officer just out from England +riding to the polo field near the Neutral +Ground, or a commanding officer in a black tunic +and a lot of ribbons across his breast, or an officer +of the day with his sash and sword; and each +of these has to be saluted. This is an interesting +spectacle, and one that is always new. You +see three soldiers coming at you with a quick +step, talking and grinning, alert and jaunty, and +suddenly the upper part of their three bodies becomes +rigid, though their legs continue as before, +apparently of their own volition, and their hands +go up and their pipes and grins disappear, and +they pass you with eyes set like dead men's eyes, +and palms facing you as though they were trying +to learn which way the wind was blowing. This +is due, you discover, to the passing of a stout +gentleman in knickerbockers, who switches his +rattan stick in the air in reply. Sometimes when +he salutes the soldier stops altogether, and so his +walks abroad are punctuated at every twenty +yards. It takes an ordinary soldier in Gibraltar +one hour to walk ten minutes.</p> + +<p>Everybody walks in the middle of the main +street in Gibraltar, because the sidewalks are only +two feet wide, and because all the streets are as +clean as the deck of a yacht. Cabs of yellow +wood and diligences with jangling bells and red<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> +worsted harness gallop through this street and +sweep the people up against the wall, and long +lines of goats who leave milk in a natural manner +at various shops tangle themselves up with long +lines of little donkeys and longer lines of geese, +with which the local police struggle valiantly. +All of these things, troops and goats and yellow +cabs and polo ponies and dog-carts, and priests +with curly-brimmed hats, and baggy-breeched +Moors, and huntsmen in pink coats and Tommies +in red, and sailors rolling along in blue, make the +main street of Gibraltar as full of variety as a +mask ball.</p> + +<p>Of the Gibraltar militant, the fortress and the +key to the Mediterranean, you can see but the +little that lies open to you and to every one +along the ramparts. Of the real defensive works +of the place you are not allowed to have even a +guess. The ramparts stretch all along the western +side of the rock, presenting to the bay a high +shelving wall which twists and changes its front +at every hundred yards, and in such an unfriendly +way that whoever tried to scale its slippery surface +at one point would have a hundred yards of +ramparts on either side of him, from which two +sides gunners and infantry could observe his +efforts with comfort and safety to themselves; +and from which, when tired of watching him slip +and scramble, they could and undoubtedly would +blow him into bits. But they would probably +save him the trouble of coming so far by doing +that before he left his vessel in the bay. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> +northern face of the +Rock—that end +which faces Spain, +and which makes +the head of the +crouching lion—shows +two long +rows of teeth cut in +its surface by convicts +of long ago. +You are allowed to +walk through these +dungeons, and to +look down upon +the Neutral Ground +and the little Spanish +town at the end +of its half-mile over +the butts of great +guns. And you will +marvel not so much +at the engineering skill of whoever it was who +planned this defence as at the weariness and the +toil of the criminals who gave up the greater part +of their lives to hewing and blasting out these +great galleries and gloomy passages, through +which your footsteps echo like the report of cannon.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 250px;"><a name="AN_ENGLISH_SENTRY" id="AN_ENGLISH_SENTRY"></a> +<img src="images/illus-019.jpg" width="250" height="414" alt="AN ENGLISH SENTRY" title="AN ENGLISH SENTRY" /> +<span class="caption">AN ENGLISH SENTRY</span> +</div> + +<p>Lower down, on the outside of this mask of +rock, are more ramparts, built there by man, +from which infantry could sweep the front of +the enemy were they to approach from the only<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> +point from which a land attack is possible. The +other side of the Rock, that which faces the +Mediterranean, is unfortified, except by the big +guns on the very summit, for no man could scale +it, and no ball yet made could shatter its front. +To further protect the north from a land attack +there is at the base of the Rock and below the +ramparts a great moat, bridged by an apparently +solid piece of masonry. This roadway, which +leads to the north gate of the fortress—the one +which is closed at six each night—is undermined, +and at a word could be blown into pebbles, +turning the moat into a great lake of water, +and virtually changing the Rock of Gibraltar +into an island. I never crossed this roadway +without wondering whether the sentry underneath +might not be lighting his pipe near the +powder-magazine, and I generally reached the +end of it at a gallop.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"><a name="A_SPANISH_SENTRY" id="A_SPANISH_SENTRY"></a> +<img src="images/illus-021.jpg" width="200" height="255" alt="A SPANISH SENTRY" title="A SPANISH SENTRY" /> +<span class="caption">A SPANISH SENTRY</span> +</div> + +<p>There is still another protection to the North +Front. It is only the protection which a watch-dog +gives at night; but a watch-dog is most important. +He gives you time to sound your burglar-alarm +and to get a pistol from under your pillow. +A line of sentries pace the Neutral Ground, +and have paced it for nearly two hundred years. +Their sentry-boxes dot the half-mile of turf, and +their red coats move backward and forward night +and day, and any one who leaves the straight and +narrow road crossing the Neutral Ground, and +who comes too near, passes a dead-line and is +shot. Facing them, a half-mile off, are the white<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> +adobe sentry-boxes of Spain and another row of +sentries, wearing long blue coats and queer little +shakos, and smoking cigarettes. And so the +two great powers watch each other unceasingly +across the half-mile of turf, and say, "So far shall +you go, and no farther; this belongs to me." +There is nothing more significant than these two +rows of sentries; you notice it whenever you +cross the Neutral Ground for a ride in Spain. +First you see the English sentry, rather short +and very young, but very clean and rigid, and +scowling fiercely over the chin strap of his big +white helmet. His shoulder-straps shine with +pipe-clay and his boots with blacking, and his +arms are burnished and oily. Taken alone, he is +a little atom, a molecule; but he is complete in +himself, with his food and lodging on his back, and +his arms ready to his +hand. He is one of a +great system that obtains +from India to +Nova Scotia, and from +Bermuda to Africa +and Australia; and he +shows that he knows +this in the way in +which he holds up his +chin and kicks out his +legs as he tramps back +and forward guarding +the big rock at his +back. And facing him,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> +half a mile away, you will see a tall handsome man +seated on a stone, with the tails of his long coat +wrapped warmly around his legs, and with his +gun leaning against another rock while he rolls a +cigarette; and then, with his hands in his pockets, +he gazes through the smoke at the sky above +and the sea on either side, and wonders when he +will be paid his peseta a day for fighting and +bleeding for his country. This helps to make +you understand how six thousand half-starved +Englishmen held Gibraltar for four years against +the army of Spain.</p> + +<p>This is about all that you can see of Gibraltar +as a fortress. You hear, of course, of much more, +and you can guess at a great deal. Up above, +where the Signal Station is, and where no one, +not even an officer in uniform not engaged on the +works, is allowed to go, are the real fortifications. +What looks like a rock is a monster gun painted +gray, or a tree hides the mouth of another. And +in this forbidden territory are great cannon +which are worked from the lowest ramparts. +These are the present triumphs of Gibraltar. +Before they came, the clouds which shut out the +sight of the Rock as well as the rest of the world +from its summit rendered the great pieces of artillery +there as useless in bad weather as they are +harmless in times of peace. The very elements +threatened to war against the English, and a +shower of rain or a veering wind might have altered +the fortunes of a battle. But a clever man +named Watkins has invented a position-finder,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> +by means of which those on the lowest ramparts, +well out of the clouds, can aim the great guns on +the summit at a vessel unseen by the gunners +lost in the mist above, and by electricity fire a +shot from a gun a half-mile above them so that +it will strike an object many miles off at sea. It +will be a very strange sensation to the captain of +such a vessel when he finds her bombarded by +shells that belch forth from a drifting cloud.</p> + +<p>No stranger has really any idea of the real +strength of this fortress, or in what part of it its +real strength lies. Not one out of ten of its +officers knows it. Gibraltar is a grand and grim +practical joke; it is an armed foe like the army +in <i>Macbeth</i>, who came in the semblance of a +wood, or like the wooden horse of Troy that +held the pick of the enemy's fighting-men. +What looks like a solid face of rock is a hanging +curtain that masks a battery; the blue waters +of the bay are treacherous with torpedoes; and +every little smiling village of Spain has been +marked down for destruction, and has had its +measurements taken as accurately as though the +English batteries had been playing on it already +for many years. The Rock is undermined and +tunnelled throughout, and food and provisions +are stored away in it to last a siege of seven +years. Telephones and telegraphs, signal stations +for flagging, search-lights, and other such +devilish inventions, have been planted on every +point, and only the Governor himself knows what +other modern improvements have been introduced<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> +into the bowels of this mountain or distributed +behind bits of landscape gardening on +its surface.</p> + +<p>On the 25th of February, at half-past ten in +the morning, three guns were fired in rapid succession +from the top of the Rock, and the windows +shook. Three guns mean that Gibraltar is +about to be attacked by a fleet of war-ships, and +that "England expects every man to do his +duty." So I went out to see him do it. Men +were running through the streets trailing their +guns, and officers were galloping about pulling at +their gloves, and bodies of troops were swinging +along at a double-quick, which always makes +them look as though they were walking in tight +boots, and bugles were calling, and groups of +men, black and clearly cut against the sky, were +excitedly switching the air with flags from every +jutting rock and every rampart of the garrison.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 614px;"><a name="SIGNAL_STATION_ON_TOP-OF_THE_ROCK" id="SIGNAL_STATION_ON_TOP-OF_THE_ROCK"></a> +<img src="images/illus-025.jpg" width="614" height="400" alt="SIGNAL STATION ON THE TOP OF THE ROCK" title="SIGNAL STATION ON THE TOP OF THE ROCK" /> +<span class="caption">SIGNAL STATION ON THE TOP OF THE ROCK</span> +</div> + +<p>Behind the ramparts, quite out of sight of the +vessels in the bay, were many hundreds of infantrymen +with rifles in hand, and only waiting +for a signal to appear above the coping of the +wall to empty their guns into the boats of the +enemy. The enlisted men, who enjoy this sort +of play, were pleased and interested; the officers +were almost as calm as they would be before a +real enemy, and very much bored at being called +out and experimented with. The real object of +the preparation for defence that morning was to +learn whether the officers at different points could<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> +communicate with the governor as he rode rapidly +from one spot to another. This was done +by means of flags, and although the officer who +did the flagging for the Governor's party had +about as much as he could do to keep his horse +on four legs, the experiment was most successful. +It was a very pretty and curious sight to see +men talking a mile away to a party of horsemen +going at full gallop.</p> + +<p>The life of a subaltern of the British army, +who belongs to a smart regiment, and who is +stationed at such a post as Gibraltar, impresses +you as being as easy and satisfactory a state +of existence as a young and unmarried man could +ask. He has always the hope that some day—any +day, in fact—he will have a chance to see +active service, and so serve his country and distinguish +his name. And while waiting for this +chance he enjoys the good things the world +brings him with a clear conscience. He has +duties, it is true, but they did not strike me as +being wearing ones, or as threatening nervous +prostration. As far as I could see, his most trying +duty was the number of times a day he had +to change his clothes, and this had its ameliorating +circumstance in that he each time changed +into a more gorgeous costume. There was one +youth whom I saw in four different suits in two +hours. When I first noticed him he was coming +back from polo, in boots and breeches; then he +was directing the firing of a gun, with a pill-box +hat on the side of his head, a large pair of field-glasses<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> +in his hand, and covered by a black and +red uniform that fitted him like a jersey. A +little later he turned up at a tennis party at the +Governor's in flannels; and after that he came +back there to dine in the garb of every evening. +When the subaltern dines at mess he wears a +uniform which turns that of the First City Troop +into what looks in comparison like a second-hand +and ready-made garment. The officers of +the 13th Somerset Light Infantry wore scarlet +jackets at dinner, with high black silk waistcoats +bordered with two inches of gold lace. The +jackets have gold buttons sewed along every +edge that presents itself, and offer glorious +chances for determining one's future by counting +"poor man, rich man, beggar-man, thief." +When eighteen of these jackets are placed +around a table, the chance civilian feels and +looks like an undertaker.</p> + +<p>Dining at mess is a very serious function in a +British regiment. At other times her Majesty's +officers have a reticent air; but at dinner, when +you are a guest, or whether you are a guest or +not, there is an intent to please and to be +pleased which is rather refreshing.</p> + +<p>We have no regimental headquarters in America, +and owing to our officers seeking promotion +all over the country, the regimental <i>esprit de +corps</i> is lacking. But in the English army regimental +feeling is very strong; father and son follow +on in the same regiment, and now that they +are naming them for the counties from which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> +they are recruited, they are becoming very close +corporations indeed. At mess the traditions of +the regiment come into play, and you can learn +then of the actions in which it has been engaged +from the engravings and paintings around +the walls, and from the silver plate on the table +and the flags stacked in the corner.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 657px;"><a name="CANNONS_MASKED_BY_BUSHES" id="CANNONS_MASKED_BY_BUSHES"></a> +<img src="images/illus-029.jpg" width="657" height="350" alt="CANNONS MASKED BY BUSHES" title="CANNONS MASKED BY BUSHES" /> +<span class="caption">CANNONS MASKED BY BUSHES</span> +</div> + +<p>When a man gets his company he presents +the regiment with a piece of plate, or a silver +inkstand, or a picture, or something which commemorates +a battle or a man, and so the regimental +headquarters are always telling a story +of what has been in the past and inspiring fine +deeds for the future. Each regiment has its +peculiarity of uniform or its custom at mess, +which is distinctive to it, and which means more +the longer it is observed. Those in authority +are trying to do away with these signs and differences<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> +in equipment, and are writing themselves +down asses as they do so.</p> + +<p>You will notice, for instance, if you are up in +such things, that the sergeants of the 13th Light +Infantry wear their sashes from the left shoulder +to the right hip, as officers do, and not from the +right shoulder, as sergeants should. This means +that once in a great battle every officer of the +13th was killed, and the sergeants, finding this out, +and that they were now in command, changed +their sashes to the other shoulder. And the officers +ever after allowed them to do this, as a +tribute to their brothers in command who had +so conspicuously obliterated themselves and distinguished +their regiment. There are other traditions, +such as that no one must mention a +woman's name at mess, except the title of one +woman, to which they rise and drink at the end +of the dinner, when the sergeant gives the signal +to the band-master outside, and his men play +the national anthem, while the bandmaster +comes in, as Mr. Kipling describes him in "The +Drums of the Fore and Aft," and "takes his +glass of port-wine with the orfficers." The Sixtieth, +or the Royal Rifles, for instance, wear no +marks of rank at the mess, in order to express +the idea that there they are all equal. This +regiment had once for its name the King's +American Rifles, and under that name it took +Quebec and Montreal, and I had placed in front +of me at mess one night a little silver statuette +in the equipment of a Continental soldier, except<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> +that his coat, if it had been colored, would +have been red, and not blue. He was dated +1768. In the mess-room are pictures of the regiment +swarming over the heights of Quebec, +storming the walls of Delhi, and running the +gauntlet up the Nile as they pressed forward +to save Gordon. All of this goes to make a subaltern +feel things that are good for him to feel.</p> + +<p>Every day at Gibraltar there is tennis, and +bands playing in the Alameda, and parades, or +riding-parties across the Neutral Ground into +Spain, and teas and dinners, at which the young +ladies of the place dance Spanish dances, and +twice a week the members of the Calpe Hunt +meet in Spain, and chase foxes across the worst +country that any Englishman ever rode over in +pink. There are no fences, but there are ravines +and cañons and precipices, down and up and over +which the horses scramble and jump, and over +which they will, if the rider leaves them alone, +bring him safely.</p> + +<p>And if you lose the rest of the field, you can go +to an old Spanish inn like that which Don Quixote +visited, with drunken muleteers in the court-yard, +and the dining-room over the stable, and with +beautiful dark-eyed young women to give you +omelet and native wine and black bread. Or, +what is as amusing, you can stop in at the officer's +guard-room at the North Front, and cheer +that gentleman's loneliness by taking tea with +him, and drying your things before his fire while +he cuts the cake, and the women of the party<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> +straighten their hats in front of his glass, and +two Tommies go off for hot water.</p> + +<p>There was a very entertaining officer guarding +the North Front one night, and he proved so entertaining +that neither of us heard the sunset gun, +and so when I reached the gate I found it locked, +and the bugler of the guard who take the keys to +the Governor each night was sounding his bugle +half-way up the town. There was a dark object +on a wall to which I addressed all my arguments +and explanations, which the object met with repeated +requests to "move on, now," in the tone +of expostulation with which a London policeman +addresses a very drunken man.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 558px;"><a name="TEA_IN_THE_OFFICERS_QUARTERS" id="TEA_IN_THE_OFFICERS_QUARTERS"></a> +<img src="images/illus-033.jpg" width="558" height="400" alt="TEA IN THE OFFICERS' QUARTERS" title="TEA IN THE OFFICERS' QUARTERS" /> +<span class="caption">TEA IN THE OFFICERS' QUARTERS</span> +</div> + +<p>I knew that if I tried to cross the Neutral +Ground I would be shot at for a smuggler; for, +owing to Gibraltar's being a free port of entry, +these gentlemen buy tobacco there, and carry it +home each night, or run it across the half-mile of +Neutral Ground strapped to the backs of dogs. +So I wandered back again to the entertaining +officer, and he was filled with remorse, and sent +off a note of entreaty to his Excellency's representative, +to whom he referred as a D. A. A. G., +and whose name, he said, was Jones. We then +went to the mess of the officers guarding the +different approaches, and these gentlemen kindly +offered me their own beds, proposing that they +themselves should sleep on three chairs and a +pile of overcoats; all except one subaltern, who +excused his silence by saying diffidently that he +fancied I would not care to sleep in the fever<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> +officer of the keys pass every night, and the +guards turn out to salute the keys, and I had +rather imagined that it was more or less of a +form, and that the pomp and circumstance were +all there was of it. I did not believe that the +Rock was really closed up at night like a safe +with a combination lock. But I know now that +it is. A note came back from the mysterious +D. A. A. G. saying I could be admitted at eleven; +but it said nothing at all about sentries, nor +did the entertaining officer. Subalterns always +say "Officer" when challenged, and the sentry +always murmurs, "Pass, officer, and all's well," +in an apologetic growl. But I suppose I did +not say "Officer" as I had been told to do, with +any show of confidence, for every sentry who appeared +that night—and there seemed to be a +regiment of them—would not have it at all, and +wanted further data, and wanted it quick. Even +if you have an order from a D. A. A. G. named +Jones, it is very difficult to explain about it +when you don't know whether to speak of him +as the D. A. A. G. or as General Jones, and +especially when a young and inexperienced +shadow is twisting his gun about so that the +moonlight plays up and down the very longest +bayonet ever issued by a civilized nation. They +were not nice sentries, either, like those on the +Rock, who stand where you can see them, and +who challenge you drowsily, like cabmen, and +make the empty streets less lonely than otherwise.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>They were, on the contrary, fierce and in a +terrible hurry, and had a way of jumping out of +the shadow with a rattle of the gun and a shout +that brought nerve-storms in successive shocks. +To make it worse, I had gone over the post, +while waiting for word from the D. A. A. G., to +hear the sentries recite their instructions to the +entertaining officer. They did this rather badly, +I thought, the only portion of the rules, indeed, +which they seemed to have by heart being those +which bade them not to allow cows to trespass +"without a permit," which must have impressed +them by its humor, and the fact that when approached +within fifty yards they were "to fire +low." I found when challenged that night that +this was the only part of their instructions that I +also could remember.</p> + +<p>This was the only trying experience of my +stay in Gibraltar, and it is brought in here as a +compliment to the force that guards the North +Front. For of them, and the rest of the inhabitants +and officers of the garrison, any one who +visits there can only think well; and I hope +when the Rock is attacked, as it never will be, +that they will all cover themselves with glory. +It never will be attacked, for the reason that the +American people are the only people clever +enough to invent a way of taking it, and they +are far too clever to attempt an impossible +thing.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p> +<h2>II</h2> + +<h3>TANGIER</h3> + + +<p>A great many thousand years ago +Hercules built the mountain of Abyla +and its twin mountain which we +call Gibraltar. It was supposed to +mark the limits of the unknown +world, and it would seem from casual inspection, +as I suggested in the last chapter, that it serves +the same purpose to this day. Men have crept +into Africa and crept out again, like flies over a +ceiling, and they have gained much renown at +Africa's expense for having done so. They have +built little towns along its coasts, and run little +rocking, bumping railroads into its forests, and +dragged launches over its cataracts, and partitioned +it off among emperors and powers and +trading companies, without having ventured into +the countries they pretend to have subdued. +But from Paul du Chaillu to W. A. Chanler, "the +Last Explorer," as he has been called, just how +much more do we know of Africa than did the +Romans whose bridges still stand in Tangier?</p> + +<p>The "Last Explorer" sounds well, and is distinctly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> +a <i>mot</i>, but there will be other explorers +to go, and perhaps to return. There are still a +few things for us to learn. The Spaniards and +the Pilgrim fathers touched the unknown world +of America only four hundred years ago, and to-day +any commercial traveller can tell you, with +the aid of an A B C railroad guide, the name of +every town in any part of it. But Turks and +Romans and Spaniards, and, of late, English and +Germans and French, have been pecking and +nibbling at Africa like little mice around a +cheese, and they are still nibbling at the rind, +and know as little of the people they "protect," +and of the countries they have annexed and colonized, +as did Hannibal and Scipio. The American +forests have been turned into railroad ties +and telegraph poles, and the American Indian +has been "exterminated" or taught to plough +and to wear a high hat. The cowboy rides freely +over the prairies; the Indian agent cheats the +Indian—the Indian does not cheat him; the +Germans own Milwaukee and Cincinnati; the +Irish rule everywhere; even the much-abused +Chinaman hangs out his red sign in every corner +of the country. There is not a nation of the +globe that has not its hold upon and does not +make fortunes out of the continent of America; +but the continent of Africa remains just as it +was, holding back its secret, and still content to +be the unknown world.</p> + +<p>You need not travel far into Africa to learn +this; you can find out how little we know of it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> +at its very shore. This city of Tangier, lying +but three hours off from Gibraltar's civilization, +on the nearest coast of Africa, can teach you +how little we or our civilized contemporaries understand +of these barbarians and of their barbarous +ways.</p> + +<p>A few months since England sent her ambassador +to treat with the Sultan of Morocco; it +was an untaught blackamoor opposed to a diplomat +and a gentleman, and a representative +of the most civilized and powerful of empires; +and we have Stephen Bonsal's picture of this +ambassador and his suite riding back along the +hot, sandy trail from Fez, baffled and ridiculed +and beaten. So that when I was in Tangier, +half-naked Moors, taking every white stranger +for an Englishman, would point a finger at me +and cry, "Your Sultana a fool; the Sultan only +wise." Which shows what a superior people we +are when we get away from home, and how well +the English understand the people they like to +protect.</p> + +<p>Tangier lies like a mass of drifted snow on the +green hills below, and over the point of rock on +which stands its fortress, and from which waves +the square red flag of Morocco. It is a fine +place spoiled by civilization. And not a nice +quality of civilization either. Back of it, in +Tetuan or Fez, you can understand what Tangier +once was and see the Moor at his best. +There he lives in the exclusiveness which his religion +teaches him is right—an exclusiveness to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> +which the hauteur of an Englishman, and his +fear that some one is going to speak to him on +purpose, become a gracious manner and suggest +undue familiarity. You see the Moor at his best +in Tangier too, but he is never in his complete +setting as he is in the inland cities, for when +you walk abroad in Tangier you are constantly +brought back to the new world by the presence +and abodes of the foreign element; a French +shop window touches a bazar, and a Moor in his +finest robes is followed by a Spaniard in his +black cape or an Englishman in a tweed suit, +for the Englishman learns nothing and forgets +nothing. He may live in Tangier for years, but +he never learns to wear a burnoose, or forgets +to put on the coat his tailor has sent him from +home as the latest in fashion. The first thing +which meets your eye on entering the harbor at +Tangier is an immense blue-and-white enamel +sign asking you to patronize the English store +for groceries and provisions. It strikes you as +much more barbarous than the Moors who come +scrambling over the vessel's side.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 400px;"><a name="BREAD_MERCHANTS_AT_THE_GATE" id="BREAD_MERCHANTS_AT_THE_GATE"></a> +<img src="images/illus-041.jpg" width="400" height="658" alt="BREAD MERCHANTS AT THE GATE" title="BREAD MERCHANTS AT THE GATE" /> +<span class="caption">BREAD MERCHANTS AT THE GATE</span> +</div> + +<p>They come with a rush and with wild yells before +the little steamer has stopped moving, and +remind you of their piratical ancestors. They +look quite as fierce, and as they throw their +brown bare legs over the bulwarks and leap and +scramble, pushing and shouting in apparently +the keenest stage of excitement and rage, they +only need long knives between their teeth and a +cutlass to convince you that you are at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> +mercy of the Barbary pirates, and not merely of +hotel porters and guides.</p> + +<p>My guide was a Moor named Mahamed. I +had him about a week, or rather, to speak quite +correctly, he had me. I do not know how he effected +my capture, but he went with me, I think, +because no one else would have him, and he accordingly +imposed on my good-nature. As we +say a man is "good-natured" when there is absolutely +nothing else to be said for him, I hope +when I say this that I shall not be accused of +trying to pay myself a compliment. Mahamed +was a tall Moor, with a fine array of different-colored +robes and coats and undercoats, and a +large white turban around his fez, which marked +the fact that he was either married or that he +had made a pilgrimage to Mecca. He followed +me from morning until night, with the fidelity of +a lamb, and with its sheeplike stupidity. No +amount of argument or money or abuse could +make him leave my side. Mahamed was not +even picturesque, for he wore a large pair of +blue spectacles and Congress gaiters. This hurt +my sense of the fitness of things very much. +His idea of serving me was to rush on ahead +and shove all the little donkeys and blind beggars +and children out of my way, at which the +latter would weep, and I would have to go back +and bribe them into cheerfulness again. In this +way he made me most unpopular with the +masses, and cost me a great deal in trying to buy +their favor. I was never so completely at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> +mercy of any one before, and I hope he found +me "intelligent, courteous, and a good linguist."</p> + +<p>As a matter of fact, there is very little need of +a guide in Tangier. It has but few show places, +for the place itself is the show. You can find +your best entertainment in picking your way +through its winding, narrow streets, and in wandering +about the open market-places. The highways +of Tangier are all very crooked and very +steep. They are also very uneven and dirty, and +one walks sometimes for hundreds of yards in a +maze of dark alleys and little passageways walled +in by whitewashed walls, and sheltered from the +sun by archways and living-rooms hanging from +one side of the street to the other. Green and +blue doorways, through which one must stoop +to enter, open in from the street, and you are +constantly hearing them shut as you pass, as +some of the women of the household recognize +the presence of a foreigner. You are never quite +sure as to what you will meet in the streets or +what may be displayed at your elbow before the +doors of the bazars. The odors of frying meat +and of fresh fruit and of herbs, and of soap in +great baskets, and of black coffee and hasheesh, +come to you from cafés and tiny shops hardly as +big as a packing-box. These are shut up at +night by two half-doors, of which the upper one +serves as a shield from the sun by day and the +lower as a pair of steps. In the wider streets +are the bazars, magnificent with color and with +the glitter of gold lace and of brass plaques and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> +silver daggers; handsome, comfortable-looking +Moors sit crossed-legged in the middle of their +small extent like soldiers in a sentry-box, and +speak leisurely with their next-door neighbor +without gesture, unless they grow excited over a +bargain, and with a haughty contempt for the +passing Christian. There is always something +beneficial in feeling that you are thoroughly despised; +and when a whole community combines +to despise you, and looks over your head gravely +as you pass, you begin to feel that those Moors +who do not apparently hold you in contempt are +a very poor and middle-class sort of people, and +you would much prefer to be overlooked by a +proud Moor than shaken hands with by a perverted +one. But the pride of the rich Moorish +gentlemen is nothing compared to the fanatic intolerance +of the poor farmers from the country +of the tribes who come in on market-day, and +who hate the Christian properly as the Koran +tells them they should. They stalk through the +narrow street with both eyes fixed on a point far +ahead of them, with head and shoulders erect +and arms swinging. They brush against you as +though you were a camel or a horse, and had +four legs on which to stand instead of two. +Sometimes a foreigner forgets that these men +from the desert, where the foreign element has +not come, are following out the religious training +of a lifetime, and strikes at one of them with +his riding-whip, and then takes refuge in a consulate +and leaves on the next boat.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>I find it very hard not to sympathize with the +Moors. The Englishman is always preaching +that an Englishman's house is his castle, and yet +he invades this country, he and his French and +Spanish and American cousins, and demands +that not only he shall be treated well, but that +any native of the country, any subject of the +Sultan, who chooses to call himself an American +or an Englishman shall be protected too. Of +course he knows that he is not wanted there; +he knows he is forcing himself on the barbarian, +and that all the barbarian has ever asked of him +is to be let alone. But he comes, and he rides +around in his baggy breeches and varnished +boots, and he gets up polo games and cricket +matches, and gallops about in a pink coat after +foxes, and asks for bitter ale, and complains because +he cannot get his bath, and all the rest +of it, quite as if he had been begged to come +and to stop as long as he liked. Sometimes you +find a foreigner who tries to learn something of +these people, a man like the late Mr. Leared or +"Bébé" Carleton, who can speak all their dialects, +and who has more power with the Sultan +than has any foreign minister, and who, if the +Sultan will not pay you for the last shipment of +guns you sent him, or for the grand-piano for +the harem, is the man to get you your money. +But the average foreign resident, as far as I can +see, neither adopts the best that the Moor has +found good, nor introduces what the Moor most +needs, and what he does not know or care<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> +enough about to introduce for himself. Tangier, +for instance, is excellently adapted by nature +for the purposes of good sanitation, but +the arrangements are as bad and primitive as +they were before a foreigner came into the +place. They consist in dumping the refuse of +the streets, into which everything is thrown, over +the sea-wall out on the rocks below, where the +pigs gather up what they want, and the waves +wash the remainder back on the coast.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 400px;"><a name="SANITARY_OUTFIT_DUMPING_REFUSE_OVER_THE_WALL" id="SANITARY_OUTFIT_DUMPING_REFUSE_OVER_THE_WALL"></a> +<img src="images/illus-047.jpg" width="400" height="193" alt="SANITARY OUTFIT" title="SANITARY OUTFIT" /> +<span class="caption">SANITARY OUTFIT DUMPING REFUSE OVER THE WALL</span> +</div> + +<p>If some of the foreign ministers would use +their undoubted influence with the Bashaw to +amend this, instead of introducing point-to-point +pony races, they might in time show some reason +for their invasion of Morocco other than the +curious and obvious one that they all grow rich +there while doing nothing. The foreign resident +has a very great contempt for the Moor. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> +says the Moor is a great liar and a rogue. When +people used to ask Walter Scott if it was he who +wrote the Waverley Novels he used to tell them +it was not, and he excused this afterwards by saying +that if you are asked an impertinent or impossible +question you have the right not to answer +it or to tell an untruth. The very presence +of the foreigner is an impertinence in the eyes +of the Moor, and so he naturally does not feel +severe remorse when he baffles the foreign invader, +and does it whenever he can.</p> + +<p>As a matter of fact, the foreign invader at +Tangier is not, in a number of cases, in a position +in which he can gracefully throw down +gauntlets. There is something about these hot, +raw countries, hidden out of the way of public +opinion and police courts and the respectability +which drives a gig, that makes people forget the +rules and axioms laid down in the temperate +zone for the guidance of tax-payers and all reputable +citizens. As the sailors say, "There is no +Sunday south of the equator." It is hard to tell +just what it is, but the sun, or the example of +the barbarians, or the fact that the world is so +far away, breeds queer ideas, and one hears +stories one would not care to print as long as +the law of libel obtains in the land. You have +often read in novels, especially French novels, or +have heard men on the stage say: "Come, let us +leave this place, with its unjust laws and cruel +bigotry. We will go to some unknown corner +of the earth, where we will make a new home.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> +And there, under a new flag and a new name, we +will forget the sad past, and enter into a new +world of happiness and content."</p> + +<p>When you hear a man on the stage say that, +you can make up your mind that he is going to +Tangier. It may be that he goes there with +somebody else's money, or somebody else's wife, +or that he has had trouble with a check; or, as +in the case of one young man who was fêted and +dined there, had robbed a diamond store in +Brooklyn, and is now in Sing Sing; or, as in the +case of a recent American consul, had sold his +protection for two hundred dollars to any one +who wanted it, and was recalled under several +clouds. And you hear stories of ministers who +retire after receiving an income of a few hundred +pounds a year with two hundred thousand dollars +they have saved out of it, and of cruelty and +bursts of sudden passion that would undoubtedly +cause a lynching in the chivalric and civilized +states of Alabama or Tennessee. And so when +I heard why several of the people of Tangier had +come there, and why they did not go away again, +I began to feel that the barbarian, whose forefathers +swept Spain and terrorized the whole of +Catholic Europe, had more reason than he knew +for despising the Christian who is waiting to give +to his country the benefits of civilization.</p> + +<p>Tangier's beauty lies in so many different +things—in the monk-like garb of the men and +in the white muffled figures of the women; in the +brilliancy of its sky, and of the sea dashing upon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> +the rocks and tossing the feluccas with their +three-cornered sails from side to side; and in the +green towers of the mosques, and the listless +leaves of the royal palms rising from the centre +of a mass of white roofs; and, above all, in the +color and movement of the bazars and streets. +The streets represent absolute equality. They +are at the widest but three yards across, and +every one pushes, and apparently every one has +something to sell, or at least something to say, +for they all talk and shout at once, and cry at +their donkeys or abuse whoever touches them. +A water-carrier, with his goat-skin bag on his +back and his finger on the tube through which +the water comes, jostles you on one side, and a +slave as black and shiny as a patent-leather boot +shoves you on the other as he makes way for his +master on a fine white Arabian horse with brilliant +trappings and a huge contempt for the donkeys +in his way. It is worth going to Tangier if +for no other reason than to see a slave, and to +grasp the fact that he costs anywhere from a hundred +to five hundred dollars. To the older generation +this may not seem worth while, but to +the present generation—those of it who were +born after Richmond was taken—it is a new and +momentous sensation to look at a man as fine and +stalwart and human as one of your own people, +and feel that he cannot strike for higher wages, +or even serve as a parlor-car porter or own a barbershop, +but must work out for life the two hundred +dollars his owner paid for him at Fez.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>There is more movement in Tangier than I +have ever noticed in a place of its size. Every +one is either looking on cross-legged from the +bazars and coffee-shops, or rushing, pushing, and +screaming in the street. It is most bewildering; +if you turn to look after a particularly magnificent +Moor, or a half-naked holy man from the +desert with wild eyes and hair as long as a horse's +mane, you are trodden upon by a string of donkeys +carrying kegs of water, or pushed to one +side by a soldier with a gun eight feet long.</p> + +<p>There is something continually interesting in +the muffled figures of the women. They make +you almost ashamed of the uncovered faces of the +American women in the town; and, in the lack of +any evidence to the contrary, you begin to believe +every Moorish woman or girl you meet is +as beautiful as her eyes would make it appear +that she is. Those of the Moorish girls whose +faces I saw were distinctly handsome; they were +the women Benjamin Constant paints in his pictures +of Algiers, and about whom Pierre Loti goes +into ecstasies in his book on Tangier. Their robe +or cloak, or whatever the thing is that they affect, +covers the head like a hood, and with one hand +they hold one of its folds in front of the face as +high as their eyes, or keep it in place by biting +it between their teeth.</p> + +<p>The only time that I ever saw the face of +any of them was when I occasionally eluded +Mahamed and ran off with a little guide called +Isaac, the especial protector of two American<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> +women, who farmed him out to me when they +preferred to remain in the hotel. He is a particularly +beautiful youth, and I noticed that +whenever he was with me the cloaks of the women +had a fashion of coming undone, and they +would lower them for an instant and look at +Isaac, and then replace them severely upon the +bridge of the nose. Then Isaac would turn towards +me with a shy conscious smile and blush violently. +Isaac says that the young men of Tangier +can tell whether or not a girl is pretty by +looking at her feet. It is true that their feet are +bare, but it struck me as being a somewhat reckless +test for selecting a bride. I will recommend +Isaac to whoever thinks of going to Tangier. +He speaks eight languages, is eighteen years old, +wears beautiful and barbarous garments, and is +always happy. He is especially good at making +bargains, and he entertained me for many half-hours +while I sat and watched him fighting over +two dollars more or less with the proprietors of +the bazars. He was an antagonist worthy of the +oldest and proudest Moor in Tangier. He had +no respect for their rage or their contempt or +their proffered bribes or their long white beards. +Sometimes he would laugh them to scorn—them +and their prices; and again he would talk to them +sadly and plaintively; and again he would stamp +and rage and slap his hands at them and rush off +with a great show of disgust, until they called him +back again, when he and they would go over the +performance once more with unabated interest.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> +Mahamed always paid them what they asked, +and got his commission from them later, as a +guide should; but Isaac would storm and finally +beat them down one-half. Isaac can be found at +the Calpe Hotel, and is welcome to whatever this +notice may be worth to him.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 350px;"><a name="A_WOMAN_OF_TANGIER" id="A_WOMAN_OF_TANGIER"></a> +<img src="images/illus-053.jpg" width="350" height="333" alt="A WOMAN OF TANGIER" title="A WOMAN OF TANGIER" /> +<span class="caption">A WOMAN OF TANGIER</span> +</div> + +<p>I had read in books on Morocco and had been +given to understand that when you were told +that the price of anything in a bazar was worth +three dollars, you should offer one, and that then +the Moor would cry aloud to Allah to take note +of the insult, and would ask you to sit down and +have a cup of coffee, and that he would then beat +you up and you would beat him down, and that +at the end of two or three hours you would get +what you wanted for two dollars. It struck me<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> +that this, if one had several months to spare and +wanted anything badly enough, might be rather +amusing. The first thing I saw that I wanted +badly was a long gun, for which the Moor asked +me twelve dollars. I offered him eight. I then +waited to see him tear his beard and unwrap his +turban and cry aloud to Allah; but he did none +of these things. He merely put the gun back in +its place and continued the conversation, which I +had so flippantly interrupted, with a long-bearded +friend. And no further remarks on my part affected +him in the least, and I was forced to go +away feeling very much ashamed and very mean. +The next day a man at the hotel brought in the +gun, having paid fourteen dollars for it, and said +he would not sell it for fifty. We would pay +much more than that for it at home, which shows +that you cannot always follow guide-books.</p> + +<p>There are only five things the guides take you +to see in Tangier—the café chantant, the governor's +palace, the prisons, and the harem, to which +men are not admitted. They also take you to +see the markets, but you can see them for yourself. +The markets are bare, open places covered +with stones and lined with bazars, and on market-days +peopled with thousands of muffled figures +selling or trying to sell herbs and eggs and everything +else that is eatable, from dates to haunches +of mutton. It is a wonderfully picturesque sight, +with the sun trickling through the palm-leaf mats +overhead on the piles of yellow melons at your +feet, and with strings of camels dislocating their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> +countenances over their grain, and dancing-men +and snake-charmers and story-tellers, as eloquent +as actors, clamoring on every side.</p> + +<p>The café chantant is a long room lined with +mats, and with rugs scattered over the floor, on +which sit musicians and the regular customers of +the place, who play cards and smoke long pipes, +with which they rap continually on the tin ash-holders. +The music is very strange, to say the +least, and the singing very startling, full of sudden +pauses, and beginning again after one of these +when you think the song is over. It is not a particularly +exciting place to visit, but there is no +choice between that and the hotel smoking-room. +Tangier is not a town where one can move about +much at night. There is also a place where the +guests tell you that you can see Moorish women +dance the dance which so startled Paris in the +Algerian exhibit at the exposition. As I had no +desire to be startled in that way again, I did not +go to see them, and so cannot say what they are +like. But it is quite safe to say that any visitor +to Tangier who thinks he is seeing anything that +is real and native to the home life of the people, +and that is not a show gotten up by the guides, +is going to be greatly taken in. The harem to +which they lead women is not a harem at all, but +the home of the widow of an ex-governor, who +sits with her daughters for strange women to +look at. It is a most undignified proceeding on +the part of the widow of a dead Bashaw, and no +one but the guides know what she is doing. I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> +came to find out about it through some American +women who went there with Isaac in the morning, +and were taken to call at the same place by +an English lady resident in the afternoon. The +English woman laughed at them for thinking +they had seen the interior of a harem, and they +did not tell her that they had already visited her +friends and paid their franc for admittance to +their society.</p> + +<p>The other show places are the governor's palace +and the prisons. The palace is a very handsome +Moorish building, and the prisons are very +dirty. All that the tourist can see of them is the +little he can discern through a hole cut in the +stout wooden door of each, which is the only exit +and entrance. You cannot see much even then, +for the prisoners, as soon as they discover a face at +the opening, stick it full of the palm-leaf baskets +that they make and sell in order to buy food. +The government gives them neither water, which +is expensive in Tangier, nor bread, unless they +are dying for want of it, but expects the family +or friends of each criminal to see that he is kept +alive until he has served out his term of imprisonment.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 400px;"><a name="WATER-VENDER_AT_THE_DOOR_OF_A_PRIVATE_HOUSE" id="WATER-VENDER_AT_THE_DOOR_OF_A_PRIVATE_HOUSE"></a> +<img src="images/illus-057.jpg" width="400" height="652" alt="WATER-VENDER" title="WATER-VENDER" /> +<span class="caption">WATER-VENDER AT THE DOOR OF A PRIVATE HOUSE</span> +</div> + +<p>A great deal has been written about these prisons +of the Sultan, and of the cruelty shown to +the inmates, notably of late by a Mr. Mackenzie +in the London <i>Times</i>. You are told that in Tangier, +within the four square walls of the prison, +there are madmen and half-starved murderers +and rebels, loaded with chains, dying of disease<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> +and want, who are tortured and starved until +they die. For this reason no one in Morocco is +sentenced for more than ten or twelve years, so +you are told, because he is sure to die before that +time has expired. It seemed to me that if this +were true it would be worth while to visit the +prison and to tell what one saw there. When I +was informed that, with the exception of two +residents of Tangier, no one has been allowed to +enter the Sultan's prison for the last <i>ten years</i>, I +suspected that there must be something there +which the Sultan did not want seen: it was not +a difficult deduction to make. So I set about +getting into the prison. It is not at all necessary +to go into the details of my endeavors, or to tell +what proposals I made; it is quite sufficient to +say that in every way I was eminently unsuccessful. +It was interesting, however, to find a people +to whom the arguments and inducements which +had proved effective with one's own countrymen +were foolish and incomprehensible. For two +days I haunted the outer walls of the prison, and +was smiled upon contemptuously by the Bashaw's +counsellors, who sat calmly in the cool hallway of +the palace, and watched me kicking impatiently +at the stones in the court-yard and broiling in the +sun, while the governor or Bashaw returned me +polite expressions of his regret. I finally dragged +the Consul-General into it, and brought things to +such a pass that I could see no way out of it but +my admittance to the prison or a declaration of +war from the United States.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span>Either event seemed to promise exciting and +sensational developments. Colonel Mathews, the +Consul-General, did not, however, share my views, +but arranged that I should have an audience with +the Bashaw, during the course of which he promised +he would bring up the question of my admittance +to the prison.</p> + +<p>On board the <i>Fulda</i>, I had had the pleasure of +sitting at table next to the Rev. Dr. Henry M. +Field, the editor of the <i>Evangelist</i>, and a distinguished +traveller in many lands. While on the +steamer I had twitted the doctor with not having +seen certain phases of life with which, it seemed +to me, he should be more familiar, and I offered, +on finding we were making the same tour for the +same purpose, to introduce him to bull-fights and +pig-sticking and cafés chantants, and other incidents +of foreign travel, of which he seemed to be +ignorant. He refused my offer with dignity, but +I think with some regret. I was, nevertheless, +glad to find that he was in Tangier, and that he +was to be one of the party to call at the governor's +palace. On learning of my desire to visit the +prison Dr. Field added his petition to mine, and +I am quite sure that Colonel Mathews wished we +were both in the United States.</p> + +<p>We first called upon the Sultan's Minister of +Foreign Affairs, who received us in a little room +leading from a pretty portico near the street entrance. +It was furnished, I was pained to note, +not with divans and rugs, but with a set of red +plush and walnut sofas and chairs, such as you<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> +would find in the salon of a third-rate French +hotel. The Minister of Foreign Affairs was a +dear, kindly old gentleman, with a fine white +beard down to his waist, but he had a cold in +his head, and this kept him dabbing at his nose +with a red bandanna handkerchief rolled up in a +ball, which was not in keeping with the rest of +his costume, nor with the dignity of his appearance. +He and Dr. Field got on very well; they +found out that they were both seventy years of +age, and both highly esteemed in their different +churches. Indeed, the Minister of Foreign Affairs +was good enough to say, through Colonel +Mathews, that Dr. Field had a good face, and +one that showed he had led a religious life. He +rather neglected me, and I was out of it, especially +when both the doctor and the cabinet minister +began hoping that Allah would bless them +both. I thought it most unorthodox language +for Dr. Field to use.</p> + +<p>We then walked up the hill upon which stand +the fort, the prisons, the treasury, and the governor's +palace, and were received at the entrance +to the latter by the same gentlemen who had for +the last two days been enjoying my discomfiture. +They were now most gracious in their +manner, and bowed proudly and respectfully to +Colonel Mathews as we passed between two rows +of them and entered the hall of the palace. We +went through three halls covered with colored +tiles and topped with arches of ornamental scrollwork +of intricate designs. At the extreme end<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> +of these rooms the Bashaw stood waiting for us. +He was the finest-looking Moor I had seen; and +I think the Moorish gentleman, though it seems +a strange thing to say, is the most perfect type +of a gentleman that I have seen in any country. +He is seldom less than six feet tall, and he carries +his six feet with the erectness of a soldier +and with the grace of a woman. The bones of +his face are strong and well-placed, and he looks +kind and properly self-respecting, and is always +courteous. When you add to this clothing as +brilliant and robes as clean and soft and white as +a bride's, you have a very worthy-looking man. +The Bashaw towered above all of us. He wore +brown and dark-blue cloaks, with a long under-waistcoat +of light-blue silk, yellow shoes, and a +white turban as big as a bucket, and his baggy +trousers were as voluminous as Letty Lind's divided +skirts. He could not speak English, but +he shook hands with us, which Moors do not do +to one another, and walked on ahead through +court-yards and halls and up stairways to a little +room filled with divans and decorated with a +carved ceiling and tiled walls. There we all sat +down, and a soldier in a long red cloak and with +numerous swords sticking out of his person gave +us tea, and sweet cakes made entirely of sugar. +As soon as we had finished one cup he brought in +another, and, noticing this, I indulged sparingly; +but the doctor finished his first, and then refused +the rest, until the Consul-General told him he +must drink or be guilty of a breach of etiquette.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 400px;"><a name="A_STREET_DANCER" id="A_STREET_DANCER"></a> +<img src="images/illus-063.jpg" width="400" height="566" alt="A STREET DANCER" title="A STREET DANCER" /> +<span class="caption">A STREET DANCER</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>The Bashaw and +Colonel Mathews +talked together, +and we paid the +governor long and +laborious compliments, +at which he +smiled indulgently. +He did not strike +me as being at all +overcome by them; +he had, on the contrary, +very much +the air of a man +of the world, and +seemed rather to +be bored, but too +polite to say so. He looked exactly like Salvini +as Othello. While the tea-drinking was going +on we were making asides to Colonel Mathews, +and urging him to propose our going into the +prison, which he said he would do, but that it +must be done diplomatically. We told him we +would give all the prisoners bread and water, +or a lump sum to the guards, or whatever he +thought would please the Bashaw best. He +and the Bashaw then began to talk about it, +and the doctor and I looked consciously at the +ceiling. The Bashaw said that never since he had +been governor of Tangier had he allowed either +a native or a foreigner to enter the prison; and +that if a European did so, he would be torn to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> +pieces by the fanatics imprisoned there, who +would think they were pleasing Allah by abusing +an unbeliever. Colonel Mathews also added, on +his own account, that we would probably catch +some horrible disease. The more they did not +want us to go, the more we wanted to go, the +doctor rising to the occasion with a keenness and +readiness of resource worthy of a New York reporter +after a beat. I can pay him no higher +compliment. After a long, loud, and excited debate +the Bashaw submitted, and the Consul-General +won.</p> + +<p>The first prison they showed us was the county +jail, in which men are placed for a month or more. +It was dirty and uninteresting, and we protested +that it was not the one which the Bashaw had described, +and asked to be shown the one where +the enemies of the government were incarcerated. +Colonel Mathews called back the Bashaw's +soldiers, and we went on to the larger prison immediately +adjoining. Some time ago the inmates +of this made a break for liberty, and forced open +the one door which bars those inside from the +outer world. The guards fired into the mass of +them, and the place shows where the bullets +struck. To prevent a repetition of this, three +heavy bars were driven into the masonry around +the door, so close together that it is impossible +for more than one man to leave or enter the +prison at one time even when the door is open. +And the opening is so small that to do this he +must either crawl in on his hands and knees, or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> +lift himself up by the crossbar and swing himself +in feet foremost. It impressed me as a particularly +embarrassing way to make an entrance +among a lot of people who meditated tearing +you to pieces. I pointed this out to the doctor, +but he was determined, though pale. So the +guards swung the door in, and the first glimpse +of a Christian gentleman the prisoners had in ten +years was a pair of yellow riding-boots which +shot into space, followed by a young man, and a +moment later by an elderly gentleman with a +white tie. We made a combined movement to +the middle of the prison, which was lighted from +above by a square opening in the roof, protected +by iron bars. This was the only light in the +place. All around the four sides of the patio or +court were rows of pillars supporting a portico, +and back of these was a second and outer corridor +opening into the porticos, and so into the +patio. The whole place—patio, porticos, and +outer corridor—was about as big as the stage of +a New York theatre. It was paved with dirt and +broken slabs, and littered with straw. There was +no furniture of any sort. With the exception of +the sink upon which we stood, directly under the +opening in the roof, the place was in almost complete +darkness, although the sun was shining brilliantly +outside.</p> + +<p>I think there must have been about fifty or +sixty men in the prison, and for a short time not +one of them moved. They were apparently, to +judge by the way they looked at us, as much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> +startled as though we had ascended from a trap +like goblins in a pantomime, and then half of +them, with one accord, came scrambling towards +us on their hands and knees. They were half +naked, and their hair hung down over their eyes; +and this, and their crawling towards us instead of +walking, made them look more or less like animals. +As they came forward there was a clanking +of chains, and I saw that it was because their +legs were fettered that they came as they did, +and not standing erect like human beings. The +guard who followed us in was over two minutes +in getting the door fastened behind him, and my +mind was more occupied with this fact than with +what I saw before me; for it seemed to me that +if there was any tearing to pieces to be gone +through with, I should hate to have to wait that +long while the door was being opened again. This +thought, with the shock of seeing thirty wild men +moving upon us out of complete darkness on +their hands and knees, was the only sensation of +any interest that I received while visiting the +prison.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 400px;"><a name="IN_THE_PRISON" id="IN_THE_PRISON"></a> +<img src="images/illus-067.jpg" width="400" height="616" alt="IN THE PRISON" title="IN THE PRISON" /> +<span class="caption">IN THE PRISON</span> +</div> + +<p>The inmates looked exactly like the poorer of +the Moors outside, except that their hair was +longer and their clothing was not so white. There +was one man, however, quite as well dressed as +any of the Sultan's counsellors, and he seemed to +be the only one who objected to our presence. +The rest did nothing except to gratify their curiosity +by staring at us; they did not even hold +out their hands for money. They were very dirty<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> +and poorly clothed, and their long imprisonment +had made them haggard and pale, and the iron +bars around their legs gave them a certain interest. +The atmosphere of the place was horribly +foul, but not worse than the atmosphere of either +the men's or women's ward at night in a precinct +station-house in New York city. Indeed, I was +not so much impressed with the horrors of the +Sultan's prison as with the fact that our own are +so little better, considering our advanced civilization. +I do not mean our large prisons, but the +cells and the vagrants' rooms in the police stations. +There the vagrant is given a sloping board +and no ventilation. In Tangier he is given straw +and an opening in the roof. To be fair, you must +compare a prisoner's condition in jail with that +which he is accustomed to in his own home, and +the homes of the Moors of the lower class are as +much like stables as their stables are like pigsties. +The poor of Tangier are allowed, through +the kindness of the Sultan, to sleep on the bare +stones around the entrance to one of the mosques. +For the poor sick there has been built a portico, +about as large as a Fifth Avenue omnibus, opposite +this same mosque. This is called the hospital +of Tangier. It is considered quite good enough +for sick people and for those who have no homes. +And every night you will see bundles of rags lying +in the open street or under the narrow roof of the +portico, exposed to the rain and to the bitter cold. +If this, in the minds of the Moors, is fair treatment +of the sick and the poor, one cannot expect them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> +to give their criminals and murderers white bread +and a freshly rolled turban every morning.</p> + +<p>If I had seen horrible things in the Sultan's +prison—men starving, or too sick to rise, or +chained to the walls, or half mad, or loathsome +with disease—I should certainly have been glad +to call the attention of other people to it, not +from any philanthropic motives perhaps, but as +a matter of news interest. I did not, however, +see any of these things. Dr. Field, I believe, was +differently impressed, and is of the opinion that +the outer corridor contained many things much +too horrible to believe possible. He compared +this to Dante's ninth circle of hell, and made a +point of the fact that the guard had called me +back when I walked towards it. I, however, went +into it while the doctor and the guard were getting +the door open for us to return, and saw +nothing there but straw. It seemed to me to be +the place where the men slept when the rain, +coming through the opening in the roof, made it +unpleasant for them to remain in the court.</p> + +<p>It may seem that my persistence in visiting the +prison is inconsistent with what I have said of +foreigners forcing themselves into places in Morocco +where they are not wanted, but I am quite +sure that, had any one heard the stories told me +of the horror of these jails, he would have considered +himself justified in learning the truth +about them; and I cannot understand why, if +the members of the legations who tell these stories +believe them, they have not used their influence<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> +to try and better the condition of the +prisoners, rather than to introduce game-laws +for the protection of partridges and wild-boars. +It is, perhaps, gratifying to note that the two +gentlemen of whom I spoke as having visited +the prison in the last ten years were the American +Consul-General and another resident American. +Both of these contributed food to the prisoners, +and reported what they had seen to our +government.</p> + +<p>On the whole, Tangier impresses one as a fine +thing spoiled by civilization. Barbarism with +electric lights at night is not attractive. Tangier +to every traveller should be chiefly interesting as +a stepping-stone towards Tetuan or Fez. Tetuan +can be reached in a day's journey, and there the +Moor is to be seen pure and simple, barbarous +and beautiful.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span></p> +<h2>III</h2> + +<h3>FROM GIBRALTAR TO CAIRO</h3> + + +<p>There are certain places and things +with which the English novel has made +us so familiar that it is not necessary +for us to go far afield or to study guide-books +in order to feel that we have +known them intimately and always. We know +Paddington Station as the place where the detective +interrogates the porter who handled the +luggage of the escaping criminal, and as the spot +from which the governess takes her ticket for the +country-house where she is to be persecuted by +its mistress and loved by all the masculine members +of the household. We also know that a P. +and O. steamer is a means of conveyance almost +as generally used by heroes and heroines of English +fiction as a hansom cab. It is a vessel upon +which the heroine meets her Fate, either in the +person of a young man on his way home from +India, or by being shipwrecked on a desert island +on her way to Australia, and where the only +other surviving passenger tattooes his will upon +her back, leaves her all his fortune, and considerately<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> +dies. Long ago a line of steamers ran to +the Peninsula of Spain; later they shortened their +sails, as the Romans shortened their swords, and, +like the Romans, extended their boundaries to the +Orient. This line is now an institution with traditions +and precedents and armorial bearings and +time-hallowed jokes, and when you step upon the +deck of a P. and O. steamer for the first time you +feel that you are not merely an ordinary passenger, +but a part of a novel in three volumes, or of +a picture in the London <i>Graphic</i>, and that all sorts +of things are imminent and possible. It may not +have occurred to you before embarking, but you +know as soon as you come over the side that you +expected to find the deck strewn with laces and +fans and daggers from Tangier, and photographs +of Gibraltar, and such other trifles for possible +purchase by the outbound passengers, and that +the crew would be little barefooted lascars in red +turbans and long blue shirts, with a cumberband +about their persons, and that you would be called +to tiffin instead of to lunch.</p> + +<p>A fat little lascar balanced himself in the jolly-boat +outlined against the sky and held aloft a red +flag until the hawser swung clear of the propeller, +when he raised a white flag above him and stood +as motionless as the Statue of Liberty, while +the <i>Sutlej</i> cleared Europa Point of Gibraltar and +headed towards the East. Then he pattered +across the deck and leaned over the side and +crooned in a lazy, barbarous monotone to the +waves. The sun fell upon the boat like a spell<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> +and turned us into sleepy and indolent fixtures +wherever it first found us, and showed us the +white-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada of +Spain to the north, and the dim blue mountains +of Africa to the south. The deck below was +scrubbed as white as a bread-board, and the masts +and rigging threw black shadows on the awning +overhead, and on every side the blue Mediterranean +and the bluer Mediterranean sky met and +sparkled and reflected each other's brilliancy like +mirrors placed face to face.</p> + +<p>For four days the sun greeted the <i>Sutlej</i> by +day and the moon by night, and the coast of +Africa played hide-and-seek along her starboard +side, disappearing in a white mist of cloud for an +hour or so, and then running along with us again +in comfortable proximity. On the other side +boats passed at almost as frequent intervals, and +at such friendly range that one could count the +people on the decks and read their flag signals +without a glass. The loneliness of the North +Atlantic, where an iceberg stands for land, and +only an occasional tramp steamer rests the eye, is +as different to this sea as a railroad journey over +the prairie is to the jaunt from New York to +Washington. On the second night out we see +Algiers, glowing and sparkling in the night like a +million of fire-flies, and with the clear steady eye +of the light-house warning us away, as though +the quarantine had not warned some of us away +already. And on the third night we pass Cape +Bon, and can imagine Tunis lying tantalizingly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> +near us, behind its light-house, shut off also by +the quarantine that the cholera at Marseilles has +made imperative wherever the French line of +steamers touch. By this time the twoscore passengers +have foregathered as they would never +have done had they all been Americans, or had +there been three hundred of them, and their place +of meeting the deck of a transatlantic steamer +instead of one of this picturesque fleet, upon +which you expect strange things to happen.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 350px;"><a name="MALTESE_PEDDLERS" id="MALTESE_PEDDLERS"></a> +<img src="images/illus-075.jpg" width="350" height="507" alt="MALTESE PEDDLERS" title="MALTESE PEDDLERS" /> +<span class="caption">MALTESE PEDDLERS</span> +</div> + +<p>When an American goes to sea, he reads books,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> +or he calculates the number of tons of coal it is +taking to run the vessel at that rate of speed, and +he determines that rate of speed by counting the +rise and fall of the piston-rod, with his watch in +his hand; and when this ceases to amuse him he +plays cards in the smoking-room or holds pools +on the run and on the pilot's number. The +Englishman joins in these latter amusements, because +nothing better offers. But when his foot +is on his native heath or on the deck of one of +his own vessels, he demonstrates his preference +for that sort of entertainment which requires +exercise and little thought. If it is at a country-house, +he plays games which entail considerable +running about, and at picnics he enjoys "Throw +the handkerchief," and on board ship he plays +cricket and other games dear to the heart of the +American at the age of five. This is partly because +he always exercises and likes moving about, +as Americans do not, and because the reading of +books (except such books as <i>Mr. Potter of Texas</i>, +which, I firmly believe, every Englishman I ever +met has read, and upon which they have bestowed +the most unqualified approval as the truest picture +of American life and character they have ever +found) entertains him for but a very short period +at a time.</p> + +<p>So a netting is placed about the upper deck +for him, and he plays cricket; not only he, but +his wife and his sister and his mother and the +unattached young ladies under the captain's care, +who are going out to India, presumably to be met<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> +at the wharf by prospective husbands. There is +something most charming in the absolute equality +which this sport entails, and the seriousness with +which the English regard it. We could not in +America expect a white-haired lady with spectacles +to bowl overhand, or to see that it is considered +quite as a matter of course that she should +do it by the member of the last Oxford eleven, +nor would our young women be able to hold a +hot ball, or to take it with the hands crossed and +only partly open, and not palm to palm and wide +apart. An American, as a rule, walks in order +that he may reach a certain point, but the Englishman +walks for the sake of the walking. And +he plays games, also, apparently for the exercise +there is in them; games in which people sit in a +circle and discuss whether love or reason should +guide them in going into matrimony do not appeal +to him so strongly as do "Oranges and lemons," +or "Where are you, Jacob?" which is a very +fine game, in which an early training in sliding to +bases gives you a certain advantage. It is certainly +instructive to hear a captain who got his +company through storming Fort Nilt last year in +the Pamir inquire, anxiously, "Oranges or lemons? +Yes, I know. But <i>which</i> should I say, old +chap? I'm a little rusty in the game, you know." +If people can get back to the days when they +were children by playing games, or in any other +way, no one can blame them.</p> + +<p>The island of Gozo rose up out of the sea on +the fourth day—a yellow rib of rock on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> +right, with houses and temples on it—and demonstrated +how few days of water are necessary +to rob one's memory of the usual look of a +house. One would imagine by the general interest +in them that we had spent the last few +years of our lives in tents, or in the arctic regions +under huts of snow and ice. And then +the ship heads in towards Malta, and instead +of dropping anchor and waiting for a tender, +glides calmly into what is apparently its chief +thoroughfare. It is like a Venice of the sea, and +you feel as though you were intruding in a gentleman's +front yard. The houses and battlements +and ramparts lie close on either side, so near that +one could toss a biscuit into the hands of the +Tommies smoking on the guns, or the natives +lounging on the steps that run from the front +doors into the sea itself. The yard-arms reach +above the line of the house-tops, and the bowsprit +seems to threaten havoc with the window-panes +of the custom-house. We are not apparently +entering a harbor, but steaming down the +main street of a city—a city of yellow limestone, +with streets, walls, houses, and waste places all of +yellow limestone. We might, for all the disturbance +we are making, be moving forward in a bark +canoe, and not in an ocean steamer drawing +twenty-five feet of water. And then when the +anchor drops, dozens of little boats, yellow and +green and blue, with high posts at the bow and +sterns like those on gondolas, shoot out from the +steps, and their owners clamor for the proud<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> +privilege of carrying us over the few feet of water +which runs between the line of houses and the +ship's sides.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 300px;"><a name="STREET_OF_SANTA_LUCIA_MALTA" id="STREET_OF_SANTA_LUCIA_MALTA"></a> +<img src="images/illus-079.jpg" width="300" height="635" alt="STREET OF SANTA LUCIA, MALTA" title="STREET OF SANTA LUCIA, MALTA" /> +<span class="caption">STREET OF SANTA LUCIA, MALTA</span> +</div> + +<p>There was at the Centennial Exposition the +head of a woman cut in butter, which attracted +much attention from the rural visitors. For this +they passed by the women painted on canvas +or carved in marble, they were too like the real +thing, and the countrymen probably knew how +difficult it is to make butter into moulds. For +some reason Malta reminds you of this butter +lady. It is a real city—with real houses and cathedral +and streets, no doubt, but you have a feeling +that they are not genuine, and that though it +is very cleverly done, it is, after all, a city carved +out of cheese or butter. Some of the cheese is +mouldy and covered with green, and some of the +walls have holes in them, as has aerated bread +or <i>Schweitzerkase</i>, and the streets and the pavements, +and the carved façades of the churches +and opera-house, and the earth and the hills +beyond—everything upon which your eye can +rest is glaring and yellow, with not a red roof to +relieve it; it is all just yellow limestone, and it +looks like Dutch cheese. It is like no other +place exactly that you have ever seen. The approach +into the canal-like harbor under the guns +and the search-lights of the fortifications, the +moats and drawbridges, and the glaring monotony +of the place itself, which seems to have +been cut out of one piece and painted with one +brush, suggest those little toy fortresses of yellow<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> +wood which appear in the shop windows at +Christmas-time.</p> + +<p>Of course the first and last thought one has +of Malta is that the island was the home of the +Order of the Knights of St. John, or Knights +Hospitallers. This order, which was the most +noble of those of the days of mediæval chivalry, +was composed of that band of warrior monks +who waged war against the infidels, who kept +certain vows, and who, under the banner of +the white cross, became honored and feared +throughout the then known world. Their headquarters +changed from place to place during the +four hundred years that stretched from the +eleventh century, when the order was first established, +up to 1530, when Charles V. made +over Malta and all its dependencies in perpetual +sovereignty to the keeping of these Knights. +They had no sooner fortified the island than +there began the nine months' siege of the Turks, +one of the most memorable sieges in history. +When it was ended, the Turks re-embarked ten +thousand of the forty thousand men they had +landed, and of the nine thousand Knights present +under the Grand Master Jean de la Valette +when the siege had opened, but six hundred capable +of bearing arms remained alive.</p> + +<p>The order continued in possession of their +island until the beginning of the nineteenth century, +when the French, under General Bonaparte, +took it with but little trouble. The French in +turn were besieged by Maltese and English, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> +after two years capitulated. In 1814 the island +was transferred to England. It now, in its +monuments and its memories, speaks of the days +of chivalry; but present and mixed with these is +the ubiquitous red coat of the British soldier; +and the eight-pointed Maltese cross, which suggests +Ivanhoe, is placed side by side with the +lion and the unicorn; the culverin has given +way to the quick-throbbing Maxim gun, the Templar's +sword to the Lee-Metford rifle, and the heroes +of Walter Scott to the friends of Mr. Rudyard +Kipling.</p> + +<p>The most conspicuous relic of the French occupation +is not a noble one. It is the penitential +hood of the Maltese woman—a strangely picturesque +article of apparel, like a cowl or Shaker +bonnet, only much larger than the latter, and with +a cape which hangs over the shoulders. The +women hold the two projecting flaps of the hood +together at the throat, and unless you are advancing +directly towards them, their faces are quite +invisible. The hoods and capes are black, and +are worn as a penance for the frailty of the women +of Malta when the French took the place and +robbed the churches, and pillaged the storehouses +of the Knights, and bore themselves with less +restraint than the infidel Turks had done.</p> + +<p>Malta retains a slight suggestion of mediævalism +in the garb of the Capuchin monks, whose +tonsured heads and bare feet and roped waists +look like a masquerade in their close proximity to +the young officers in tweeds and varnished boots.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> +But one gets the best idea of the past from the +great Church of St. John, which is full of the trophies +and gifts of the Grand Masters of the Order, +and floored with two thousand marble tombs of +the Knights themselves. Each Grand Master +vied with those who had preceded him in enriching +this church, and each Knight on his promotion +made it a gift, so that to-day it is rich in +these and wonderfully beautiful. This is the +chief show-place, and the Governor's palace is another, +and, to descend from the sublimity of the +past to the absurdity of the present, so is also +the guard-room of the officer of the day, which +generations of English subalterns have helped to +decorate. Each year a committee of officers go +over the pictures on its walls and rub out the +least amusing, and this survival of the fittest has +resulted in a most entertaining gallery of black +and white.</p> + +<p>The Order of Jerusalem, or of St. John, still +obtains in Europe, and those who can show fourteen +quarterings on one side and twelve on the +other are entitled to belong to it; but they are +carpet knights, and wearing an enamel Maltese +cross on the left side of an evening coat is a different +thing from carrying it on a shield for Saracens +to hack at.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 634px;"><a name="BRINDISI" id="BRINDISI"></a> +<img src="images/illus-085.jpg" width="634" height="350" alt="BRINDISI" title="BRINDISI" /> +<span class="caption">BRINDISI</span> +</div> + +<p>Sicily showed itself for a few hours while the +boat continued on its way to Brindisi; and as +that day happened to be the 4th of March, the +captain of the <i>Sutlej</i> was asked to make a calculation +for which there will be no further need for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> +four years to come. This calculation showed at +what point in the Mediterranean ocean the <i>Sutlej</i> +would be when a President was being inaugurated +in Washington, and at the proper time the +passengers were invited to the cabin, and the fact +that a government was changing into the hands +of one who could best take care of it was impressed +upon them in different ways. And later, +after dinner, the captain of the <i>Sutlej</i> made a +speech, and said things about the important +event (which he insisted on calling an election) +which was then taking place in America, and the +English cheered and drank the new President's +health, and the two Americans on board, who +fortunately were both good Democrats, felt not +so far from home as before.</p> + +<p>You must touch at Brindisi, which is situated +on the heel of the boot of Italy, if you wish to go +a part of the way by land from the East to London +or from London to the East. And as many +people prefer travelling forty-eight hours across +the Continent to rounding Gibraltar, one hears +often of Brindisi, and pictures it as a shipping +port of the importance of Liverpool or Marseilles. +Instead of which it is as desolate as a summer +resort in midwinter, and is like that throughout +the year. There was a long, broad stone wharf, +and tall stucco houses behind, and banks of coal +which suggested the rear approach to Long Island +City, and the soft blue Italian skies of which +we had read were steely blue, and most of us +wore overcoats. We lay bound fast to the wharf,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> +with a plank thrown from the boat's side to the +quay, for the day, and we had free permission to +learn to walk on streets again for full twenty-four +hours; but after facing the wind, and dodging +guides who had nothing to show, we came back +by preference to the clean deck and the steamer-chair. +Desperate-looking Italian soldiers with +feathers in their hats, and custom-house officers, +and gendarmes paraded up and down the quay +for our delectation, and a wicked little boy stood +on the pier-head and sang "Ta-ra-ra-boom-chi-ay," +pointedly varying this knowledge of our several +nationalities by crying: "I <i>say</i>, buy box +matches. Get out." This show of learning +caused him to be regarded by his fellows with +much envy, and they watched us to see how far +we were impressed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 220px;"><a name="PILLAR_OF_CAESAR_AT_BRINDISI" id="PILLAR_OF_CAESAR_AT_BRINDISI"></a> +<img src="images/illus-089.jpg" width="220" height="600" alt="PILLAR OF CÆSAR AT BRINDISI" title="PILLAR OF CÆSAR AT BRINDISI" /> +<span class="caption">PILLAR OF CÆSAR AT BRINDISI</span> +</div> + +<p>There are two things which need no newspaper +advertising and which recognize no geographical +lines; one is a pretty face and the other is a good +song. I have seen photographs for sale of Isabelle +Irving and Lillian Russell in as different localities +as Santiago in Cuba, and Rotterdam, and +I saw a play-bill in San Antonio, Texas, upon +which the Countess Dudley and the Duchess of +Leinster were reproduced under the names of the +Walsh Sisters. A good song will travel as far, +changing its name, too, perhaps, and its words, +but keeping the same melody that has pleased +people in a different part of the world. When +the moon came out at Brindisi and hid the heaps +of coal, and showed only the white houses and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> +the pillar of Cæsar, a party of young men with +guitars and mandolins gathered under the bow +and sang a song called "Oh, Caroline," which I +had last heard Francis Wilson sing as a part of +the score of "The Lion-tamer," to very different +words. As the scene of "The Lion-tamer" is +laid in Sicily, the song was more or less in place; +but the contrast between the dark-browed Italian +and Mr. Wilson's genial countenance which the +song brought back was striking. And on the +night after we had left Brindisi, when the crew +gave a concert, one of them sang "Oh, promise +me," and some one asked if the song had yet +reached America. I did not undeceive him, but +said it had.</p> + +<p>After Brindisi the hands of the clock go back +a few thousand years, and we see Cethdonia, +where Ulysses owned much property, and Crete, +from whence St. Paul set sail, with its long range +of mountains covered with snow, and then we +come back to the present near the island of +Zante, where the earthquake moved a month ago +and swallowed up the homes of the people.</p> + +<p>The <i>Sutlej</i> had been going out of her course +all of the fourth day in order to dodge possible +islands thrown up by the earthquake, and she +was late. That night, as she steamed forward at +her best speed, the level oily sea fell back from +her bows with a steady ripple as she cut it in two +and turned it back out of the way. A light on +the horizon, like a policeman's lantern, which +changed to the burnt-out end of a match and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> +back again to a bull's-eye, told us that beyond +the light lay the level sands of Egypt, almost as +far-reaching and monotonous as the sea that +touched its shore.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 350px;"><a name="APPROACH_TO_ISMAILIA_BY_THE_SUEZ_CANAL" id="APPROACH_TO_ISMAILIA_BY_THE_SUEZ_CANAL"></a> +<img src="images/illus-093.jpg" width="350" height="608" alt="APPROACH TO ISMAÏLIA BY THE SUEZ CANAL" title="APPROACH TO ISMAÏLIA BY THE SUEZ CANAL" /> +<span class="caption">APPROACH TO ISMAÏLIA BY THE SUEZ CANAL</span> +</div> + +<p>The force of habit is very strong on many people, +and if they approach the land of the Pharaohs +and of Cleopatra an hour after their usual +bedtime, they feel no inclination to diverge from +their usual habits on that account. When you +consider how many hours there are for slumber, +and how many are given to dances, you would +think one hour of sleep might be spared out of a +lifetime in order that you could see Port Said at +night. There was a long line of lamps on the +shore, like a gigantic row of footlights or a prairie +fire along the horizon, and we passed towards +this through buoys with red and green lights, +with a long sea-wall reaching out on one side, +and the natural reef of jagged rocks rising black +out of the sea in the path of the moon on the +other. Then black boats shot out from the shore +and assailed us with strange cries, and men in +turbans and long robes, and negroes in what +looked like sacking, and which probably was sacking, +but which could not hide the suppleness and +strength of their limbs, climbed up over the high +sides. These were the coal-trimmers making way +for the black islands, filled with black coal and +blacker men, who made fast to the side and began +feeding the vessel through a blazing hole like +an open fireplace in her iron side. Four braziers +filled with soft coal burnt with a fierce red flame<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> +from the corners of the barges, and in this light +from out of the depths half-naked negroes ran +shrieking and crying with baskets of coal on their +shoulders to the top of an inclined plank, and +stood there for a second in the full glare of the +opening until one could see the whites of their +eyes and the sweat glistening on the black faces. +Then they pitched the coal forward into the +lighted opening, as though they were feeding a +fire, and disappeared with a jump downward into +the pit of blackness. The coal dust rose in great +curtains of mist, through which the figures of the +men and the red light showed dimly and with +wavering outline, like shadows in an iron-mill, +and through it all came their cries and shouts, +and the roar of the coal blocks as they rattled +down into the hold.</p> + +<p>Port Said occupies the same position to the +waters of the world as Dodge City once did to the +Western States of America—it is the meeting-place +of vessels from every land over every water, +just as Dodge City was the meeting-place of the +great trails across the prairies. When a cowboy +reached Dodge City after six months of constant +riding by day and of sleeping under the stars by +night, and with wild steers for company, he wanted +wickedness in its worst form—such being the +perversity of man. And you are told that Port +Said offers to travellers and crew the same attractive +features after a month or weeks of rough +voyaging that Dodge City once offered to the +trailsmen. In <i>The Light that Failed</i> we are told<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> +that Port Said is the wickedest place on earth, +that it is a sink of iniquity and a hole of vice, and +a wild night in Port Said is described there with +pitiless detail. Almost every young man who +leaves home for the East is instructed by his +friends to reproduce that night, or never return to +civilization. And every sea-captain or traveller +or ex-member of the Army of Occupation in +Egypt that I met on this visit to the East either +smiled darkly when he spoke of Port Said or raised +his eyes in horror. They all agreed on two things—that +it was the home of the most beautiful woman +on earth, which is saying a good deal, and that +it was the wickedest, wildest, and most vicious +place that man had created and God forgotten. +One would naturally buy pocket-knives at Sheffield, +and ginger ale in Belfast, and would not lay +in a stock of cigars if going to Havana; and so +when guides in Continental cities and in the East +have invited me to see and to buy strange things +which caused me to doubt the morals of those +who had gone before, I have always put them +off, because I knew that some day I should visit +Port Said. I did not want second-best and imitation +wickedness, but the most awful wickedness +of the entire world sounded as though it might +prove most amusing. I expected a place blazing +with lights, and with gambling-houses and <i>cafés +chantants</i> open to the air, and sailors fighting +with bare knives, and guides who cheated and +robbed you, or led you to dives where you could +be drugged and robbed by others.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 600px;"><a name="STEAM-DREDGE_AT_WORK_IN_THE_SUEZ_CANAL" id="STEAM-DREDGE_AT_WORK_IN_THE_SUEZ_CANAL"></a> +<img src="images/illus-097.jpg" width="600" height="246" alt="STEAM-DREDGE" title="STEAM-DREDGE" /> +<span class="caption">STEAM-DREDGE AT WORK IN THE SUEZ CANAL</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>So I went on shore and gathered the guides +together, and told them for the time being to +sink their rivalry and to join with loyal local +pride in showing me the worst Port Said could +do. They consulted for some time, and then +said that they were sorry, but the only gambling-house +in the place closed at twelve, and so did +the only <i>café chantant</i>; and as it was now nearly +half-past twelve, every one was properly in bed. +I expressed myself fully, and they were hurt, and +said that Egypt was a great country, and that +after I had seen Cairo I would say so. So I told +them I had not meant to offend their pride of +country, and that I was going to Cairo in order +to see things almost as old as wickedness, and +much more worth while, and that all I asked of +Port Said was that it should live up to its name. +I told them to hire a house, and wake the people +in Port Said up, and show me the very worst, +lowest, wickedest, and most vicious sights of +which their city boasted; that I would give them +four hours in which to do it, and what money +they needed. I should like to print what, after +long consultation, the five guides of Port Said—which +is a place a half-mile across, and with which +they were naturally acquainted—offered me as +the acme of riotous dissipation. I do not do so, +not because it would bring the blush to the cheek +of the reader, but to the inhabitants of Port Said, +who have enjoyed a notoriety they do not deserve, +and who are like those desperadoes in the +West who would rather be considered "bad"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> +than the nonentities that they are. I bought photographs, +a box of cigarettes, and a cup of black +coffee at Port Said. That cannot be considered +a night of wild dissipation. Port Said may have +been a sink of iniquity when Mr. Kipling was +last there, but when I visited it it was a coaling +station. I would hate to be called a coaling +station if I were Port Said, even by me.</p> + +<p>When I awoke after my night of riot at Port +Said the <i>Sutlej</i> was steaming slowly down the +Suez Canal, and its waters rippled against its +sandy banks and sent up strange odors of fish +and mud. On either side stretched long levels +of yellow sand dotted with bunches of dark green +grass, like tufts on a quilt, over which stalked an +occasional camel, bending and rocking, and scorning +the rival ship at its side. You have heard so +much of the Suez Canal as an engineering feat +that you rather expect, in your ignorance, to find +the banks upheld by walls of masonry, and to +pass through intricate locks from one level to another, +or at least to see a well-beaten towpath at +its side. But with the exception of dikes here +and there, you pass between slipping sandy banks, +which show less of the hand of man than does a +mill-dam at home, and you begin to think that +Ferdinand de Lesseps drew his walking-stick +through the sand from the Red Sea to the Mediterranean, +and twenty thousand negroes followed +him and dug a ditch. On either side of this ditch +you see reproduced in real life the big colored +prints which hung on the walls of the Sunday-School.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> +There are the buffaloes drawing the +ploughs of wood, and the wells of raw sun-baked +clay, and the ditches and water-works of two +cog-wheels and clay pots for irrigating the land, +and the strings of camels, and the veiled women +carrying earthen jars on the left shoulder. And +beyond these stretches the yellow sand, not white +and heavy, like our own, but dun-colored and +fine, like dust, and over it amethyst skies bare of +clouds, and tall palms. And then the boat stops +again at Ismaïlia to let you off for Cairo, and the +brave captains returning from leave, and the +braver young women who are going out to work +in hospitals, and the young wives with babies +whom their fathers have not seen, and the commissioners +returning to rule and bully a native +prince, pass on to India, and you are assaulted +by donkey-boys who want you to ride "Mark +Twain," or "Lady Dunlo," or "Two-Pair-of-Black-Eyes-Oh-What-a-Surprise-Grand-Ole-Man." +A jerky, rumbling train carries you from +Ismaïlia past Tel-el-Kebir station, where the +British army surprised the enemy by a night +march and took a train back to Cairo in three +hours. And then, after a five hours' ride, you +stop at Cairo, and this chapter ends.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span></p> +<h2>IV</h2> + +<h3>CAIRO AS A SHOW-PLACE</h3> + + +<p>As a rule, when you visit the capital of +a country for the first time it is sufficient +that you should have studied +the history of that particular country +in order that you may properly +appreciate the monuments and the show-places +of its chief cities; it is not necessary that you +should be an authority on the history of Norway +and Sweden to understand Paris or New York. +For a full appreciation of most of the great cities +of the world one finds a single red-bound volume +of Baedeker to be all-sufficient; but when you go +to Cairo, in order that you may understand all +that lies spread out for your pleasure, you should +first have mastered the Old and the New Testament, +a complete history of the world, several of +Shakespeare's plays, and the files of the London +<i>Times</i> for the past ten years. Almost every +man who was great, not only in the annals of his +own country, but in the history of the world, has +left his mark on this oldest country of Egypt, as +tourists to the Colosseum have scratched their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> +initials on its stones, and so hope for immortality. +You are shown in Cairo the monuments of great +monarchs and of a great people, who were not +known beyond the limits of their own country in +contemporaneous history only because there was +no contemporaneous history, and of those who +came thousands of years later. The isle of Rodda, +between the two banks of the Nile at Cairo, +marks where Moses was found in the bulrushes; +a church covers the stones upon which Mary and +Joseph rested; in the city of Alexandria is the +spot where Alexander the Great scratched his +name upon the sands of Egypt; the mouldering +walls of Old Cairo are the souvenirs of Cæsar, as +are the monuments upon which the Egyptians +carved his name with "Autocrator" after it. At +Actium and Alexandria you think of Antony +and of the two women, so widely opposed and +so differently beautiful, whom Sarah Bernhardt +and Julia Neilson re-embody to-day in Paris and +in London, and to whom Shakespeare and Kingsley +have paid tribute. Mansoorah marks the +capture of Saint-Louis of France, and the crescent +and star which is floating over Cairo at this +minute speak of Osman Sultan Selim I., with +whom began the dependence of Egypt as a part +of the Ottoman Empire. From there you see +the windmills and bake-ovens of Napoleon, which +latter, stretching for miles across the desert, mark +the march of his army. Abukir speaks of Nelson +and the battle of the Nile; and after him +come the less momentous names Tel-el-Kebir<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> +and "England's Only General," Wolseley, and +the fall of Khartoom and the loss of Gordon. +The history of Egypt is the history of the Old +World.</p> + +<p>Moses, Rameses II., Darius, Alexander, Cæsar, +Napoleon, Mehemet Ali, and Nelson—these are +all good names; and yet what they failed to do +is apparently being done to-day by an Army of +Occupation without force, but with the show of +it only: not by a single great military hero, but +by a lot of men in tweed suits who during business +hours irrigate land and add up columns of +irritating figures, and in their leisure moments +solemnly play golf at the very base of the pyramids. +The best of Cairo lies, of course, in that +which is old, and not in what has been imported +from the New World, and its most amusing features +are the incongruities which these importations +make possible. I am speaking of Cairo now +from a tourist's point of view, and not from that +of a political economist. He would probably be +interested in the improved sanitation and the +Mixed Tribunal.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 448px;"><a name="BAZAR_OF_A_WORKER_IN_BRASS" id="BAZAR_OF_A_WORKER_IN_BRASS"></a> +<img src="images/illus-105.jpg" width="448" height="469" alt="WORKER IN BRASS" title="WORKER IN BRASS" /> +<span class="caption">BAZAR OF A WORKER IN BRASS</span> +</div> + +<p>I had pictured Cairo as an Oriental city of +much color, with beautiful minarets piercing the +sky-line, and with much richness of decoration +on the outside of its palaces and mosques. Cairo +is divided into two parts, that which is old and +decaying and that which is European and modern; +the prevailing colors of both are gray, a dull +yellow, and white. The mosques are of gray +stone, the houses of dirty white, and in the new<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span> +part the palaces and residences remind one of +white Italian villas. These are surrounded by +tropical gardens, which alone save the city from +one monotonous variation of sombre colors. It +is not, therefore, the buildings, either new or +old, which make Cairo one of the most picturesque +and incongruous and entertaining of cities +in the whole world; it is the people who live in +it and who move about in it, and who are so<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> +constantly in the streets that from the Citadel +above the city its roar comes to you like the roar +of London. In that city it is the voice of traffic +and steam and manufactures, but in Cairo it +emanates from the people themselves, who talk +and pray and shout and live their lives out-of-doors. +These people are the natives, the European +residents, the Army of Occupation, and, +during the winter months, the tourists. When +you say natives you include Egyptians, Arabians, +Copts, Syrians, negroes from the Upper Nile, +and about a hundred other subdivisions, which +embrace every known nationality of the East.</p> + +<p>Mixed with these are the residents, chiefly +Greek and French and Turks, and the Army of +Occupation, who, when they are not in beautiful +uniforms, are in effective riding-clothes, and their +wives and sisters in men's shirts and straw hats +or Karkee riding-habits. The tourists, for their +part, wear detective cameras and ready-made ties +if they are Americans, and white helmets and +pugarees floating over their necks and white umbrellas +if they are English. This latter tropical +outfit is spoiled somewhat by the fact that they +are forced to wear overcoats the greater part of +the time; but as they always take the overcoats +off when they are being photographed at the +base of the pyramids, their envious friends at +home imagine they are in a warm climate.</p> + +<p>The longer you remain in Cairo the more satisfying +it becomes, as you find how uninterruptedly +the old, old life of the people is going on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> +about you, and as you discover for yourself bazars +and mosques and tiny workshops and open cafés of +which the guide-books say nothing, and to which +there are no guides. You can see all the show-places +in Cairo of which you have read in a week, +and yet at the end of the week you feel as though +what you had seen was not really the city, but just +the goods in the shop-window. So keep away +from show-places. Lose yourself in the streets, +or sit idly on the terrace of your hotel and watch +the show move by, feeling that the best of it, +after all, lies in the fact that nothing you see is +done for show; that it is all natural to the people +or the place; that if they make pictures of themselves, +they do so unconsciously; and that no +one is posing except the tourist in his pith helmet.</p> + +<p>The bazars in Cairo cover much ground, and +run in cliques according to the nature of the +goods they expose for sale. From a narrow +avenue of red and yellow leather shoes you come +to another lane of rugs and curtains and cloth, +and through this to an alley of brass—brass +lamps and brass pots and brass table-tops—and +so on into groups of bookbinders, and of armorers, +and sellers of perfumes. These lanes are +unpaved, and only wide enough at places for +two men to push past at one time; at the widest +an open carriage can just make its way slowly, +and only at the risk of the driver's falling off his +box in a paroxysm of rage. The houses and +shops that overhang these filthy streets are as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> +primitive and old as the mud in which you tramp, +but they are fantastically and unceasingly beautiful. +On the level of the street is the bazar—a +little box with a show-case at one side, and at +the back an oven, or a forge, or a loom, according +to the nature of the thing which is being +made before your eyes. Goldsmiths beat and +blow on the raw metal as you stand at their +elbow; bakers knead their bread; laundrymen +squirt water over the soiled linen; armorers hammer +on a spear-head, which is afterwards to be +dug up and sold as an assegai from the Soudan; +and the bookbinders to the Khedive paste and +tool the leather boxes for his Highness with the +dust from the street covering them and their +work, with two dogs fighting for garbage at their +feet, and the uproar of thousands of people ringing +in their ears. The Oriental cannot express +himself in the street without shouting. Everybody +shouts—donkey-boys and drivers, venders +of a hundred trifles, police and storekeepers, auctioneers +and beggars. They do not shout occasionally, +but continually. They have to shout, +or they will either trample on some one or some +one will as certainly trample on them. Camels +and donkeys and open carriages and mounted +police move through the torrent of pedestrians +as though they were figures of the imagination, +and had no feelings or feet. On the second story +over each bazar is the home of its owner. The +windows of this story are latticed, and bulge forward +so that the women of the harem may look<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> +down without being themselves seen. Above +these are square, heavy balconies of carved open +wood-work, very old and very beautiful. Scattered +through the labyrinth of the bazars are the +mosques, with wide, dirty steps covered with the +red and yellow shoes of the worshippers within, +and with high minarets, and façades carved in +relief with sentences from the Koran, or with +the name of the Sultan to whom the temple is +dedicated.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 600px;"><a name="GROUP_OF_NATIVES_IN_FRONT_OF_SHEPHEARDS_HOTEL" id="GROUP_OF_NATIVES_IN_FRONT_OF_SHEPHEARDS_HOTEL"></a> +<img src="images/illus-109.jpg" width="600" height="307" alt="GROUP OF NATIVES" title="GROUP OF NATIVES" /> +<span class="caption">GROUP OF NATIVES IN FRONT OF SHEPHEARD'S HOTEL</span> +</div> + +<p>The bazars are very much as one imagines they +should be, the fact that impresses you most +about them being, I think, that such beautiful +things should come from such queer little holes +of dirt and poverty, and that you should stand +ankle-deep in mud while you are handling turquoises +and gold filigree-work as delicate as that +of Regent Street or Broadway. At the bazars +to which the dragomen take tourists you will be +invited to sit down on a cushion and to drink +coffee and smoke cigarettes, but you will pay, if +you purchase anything, about a pound for each +cup of coffee you take. The best bazars for bargains +are those in Old Cairo, to which you should +go alone. In either place it is the rule to offer +one-third of what you are asked—as I found it +was not the rule to do in Tangier—and it is not +always safe to offer a third unless you want the +article very much, as you will certainly get it at +that price. You feel much more at home in the +bazars and the cafés and in all of the out-of-door +life of Cairo than in that of Tangier, owing to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> +the good-nature of the Egyptian. The Moor +resents your presence, and though that in itself +is attractive, the absolute courtesy of the Egyptian, +when it is not, as it seldom is, servility, has +also its advantage. If you raised your stick to +a Moorish donkey-boy, for instance, you would +undoubtedly have as much rough-and-tumble +fighting as you could attend to at one time; +but you have to beat an Egyptian donkey-boy, or +strike at him, or a dozen of him, if you want +peace, and every time you hit him he comes up +smiling, and with renewed assurances that the +Flying Dutchman is a very good donkey, and +that all the other donkeys are "velly sick." +There is nothing so inspiring as the sight of a +carefully bred American girl, who would feel +remorse if she scolded her maid, beating eight or +nine donkey-boys with her umbrella, until she +breaks it, and so rides off breathless but triumphant. +This shows that necessity knows no +laws of social behavior.</p> + +<p>When you are weary of fighting your way +through the noise and movement of the bazars, +you can find equal entertainment on the terrace +of your hotel. There are several hotels in Cairo. +There is one to which you should certainly go if +you like to see your name encompassed by those +of countesses and princes, and of Americans +who spell Smith with a "y" and put a hyphen +between their second and third names. There +are, as I say, a great many hotels in Cairo, but +Shepheard's is so historical, and its terrace has<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> +been made the scene of so many novels, that all +sorts of amusing people go there, from Sultans +to the last man who broke the bank at Monte +Carlo, and its terrace is like a private box at a +mask ball. About the best way to see Cairo is +in a wicker chair here under waving palms, something +to smoke, and with a warm sun on your +back, and the whole world passing by in front of +you. Broadway, I have no doubt, is an interesting +thoroughfare to those who do not know it. +I should judge from the view one has of the soles +of numerous boots planted against the windows +of hotels along its course that Broadway to the +visiting stranger is an infinite source of entertainment. +But there are no camels on Broadway, +and there are no sais.</p> + +<p>A camel by itself is one of the most interesting +animals that has ever been created, but when +it blocks the way of a dog-cart, and a smart +English groom endeavors to drive around it, the +incongruity of the situation appeals to you as +nothing on Broadway can ever do. Mr. Laurence +Hutton, who was in Cairo before I reached it, +has pointed out that the camel is the real aristocrat +of Egypt. The camel belongs to one of the +very first families; he was there when Mena +ruled, and he is there now. It does not matter +to him whether it is a Pharaoh or a Mameluke or +a Napoleon or a Mixed Tribunal that is in power, +his gods are unchanged, and he and the palm-tree +have preserved their ancient individuality +through centuries. He shows that he knows this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> +in the proud way in which he holds his head, and +in his disdainful manner of waving and unwinding +his neck, and in the rudeness with which he +impedes traffic and selfishly considers his own +comfort. These are the signs of ancient lineage +all the world over. He is not the shaggy, moth-eaten +object we see in the circus tent at home. +He is nicely shaven, like a French poodle, and +covered with fine trappings, and he bends and +struts with the dignity of a peacock. He possesses +also that uncertainty of conduct that is the +privilege of a royal mind; fellahin and Arabs +pretend they are his masters, and lead him about +with a rope, but that never disturbs him nor +breaks his spirit. When he wants to lie down +he lies down, whether he is in the desert or in +the Ezbekiyeh Road; and when he decides to +get up he leaves you in doubt for some feverish +seconds as to which part of him will get up first. +To properly appreciate the camel you should +ride him and experience his getting up and his +sitting down. He never does either of these +things the same way twice. Sometimes he breaks +one leg in two or three places where it had never +broken before, and sinks or rises in a northeasterly +direction, and then suddenly changes +his course and lurches up from the rear, and you +grasp his neck wildly, only to find that he is sinking +rapidly to one side, and rising, with a jump +equal to that of a horse taking a fence, in the +front. He can disjoint himself in more different +places, than explorers have found sources for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> +river Nile, and there is no keener pleasure than +that which he affords you in watching the countenance +of a friend who is being elevated on his +back for the first time. He and the palm-tree +can make any landscape striking, and he and the +sais are the most picturesque features of Cairo.</p> + +<p>The sais is a runner who keeps in front of a +carriage and warns common people out of the +way, and who beats them with a stick if they do +not hurry up about it. He is a relic of the days +when the traffic in all of the streets was so congested +that he was an absolute necessity; now he +makes it possible for a carriage to move forward +at a trot, which without his aid it could not do. +It is obvious that to do this he must run swiftly. +Most men when they run bend their bodies forward +and keep their mouths closed in order to +save their wind. The sais runs with his shoulders +thrown back and trumpeting like an enraged +elephant. He holds his long wand at his side +like a musket, and not trailing in his hand like a +walking-stick, and he wears a soft shirt of white +stuff, and a sleeveless coat buried in gold lace. +His breeches are white, and as voluminous as a +woman's skirts; they fall to a few inches above +his knee; the rest of his brown leg is bare, and +rigid with muscle. On his head he has a fez +with a long black tassel, and a magnificent silk +scarf of many colors is bound tightly around his +waist. He is a perfect ideal of color and movement, +and as he runs he bellows like a bull, or +roars as you have heard a lion roar at feeding-time<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> +in a menagerie. It is not a human cry at +all, and you never hear it, even to the last day +of your stay in Cairo, without a start, as though +it were a cry of "help!" at night, or the quick-clanging +bell of a fire-engine. There is nothing +else in Cairo which is so satisfying. There are +sometimes two sais running abreast, dressed exactly +alike, and with the upper part of their +bodies as rigid as the wand pressed against their +side, and with the ends of their scarf and the +long tassel streaming out behind. As they yell +and bellow, donkeys and carriages and people +scramble out of their way until the carriage they +precede has rolled rapidly by. Only princesses +of the royal harem, and consuls-general, and the +heads of the Army of Occupation and the Egyptian +army are permitted two sais; other people +may have one. They appealed to me as much +more autocratic appendages than a troop of lifeguards. +The rastaquouère who first introduces +them in Paris will make his name known in a +day, and a Lord Mayor's show or a box-seat on +a four-in-hand will be a modest and middle-class +distinction in comparison.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 573px;"><a name="A_BRITISH_SQUARE_FORMED_IN_FRONT_OF_THE_PYRAMIDS" id="A_BRITISH_SQUARE_FORMED_IN_FRONT_OF_THE_PYRAMIDS"></a> +<img src="images/illus-117.jpg" width="573" height="450" alt="A BRITISH SQUARE" title="A BRITISH SQUARE" /> +<span class="caption">A BRITISH SQUARE FORMED IN FRONT OF THE PYRAMIDS</span> +</div> + +<p>These camels and sais are but two of the things +you see from your wicker chair on the marble +terrace at Shepheard's. The others are hundreds +of donkey-boys in blue night-gowns slit open at +the throat and showing their bare breasts, and +with them as many long-eared donkeys, rendered +even more absurd than they are in a state of +nature by fantastic clippings of their coats and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span> +strings of jangling brass and blue beads around +their necks.</p> + +<p>There are also the women of Cairo, the enslaved +half of Egypt, who have been brought, +through generations of training and tradition, to +look upon any man save their husband as their +enemy, as a thing to be shunned. This has +become instinct with them, as it is instinctive +with women of Northern countries to turn to +men for sympathy or support, as being in some +ways stronger than themselves. But these women +of Cairo, who look like an army of nuns, are +virtually shut off from mankind, with the exception +of one man, as are nuns, and they have not +the one great consolation allowed the nun—they +have no souls to be saved, nor religion, nor a +belief in a future life.</p> + +<p>There was a young girl married while I was in +Cairo. The streets around the palace of her father +were hung with flags for a week; the garden +about his house was enclosed with a tent which +was worth in money twenty thousand dollars, +and which was as beautiful to the eye as the interior +of a mosque; for a week the sheiks who +rented the estates of the high contracting parties +were fed at their expense; for a week men sang +and bands played and the whole neighborhood +feasted; and on the last night everybody went +to the wedding and drank coffee and smoked cigarettes +and listened to a young man singing +Arabian love-songs. I naturally did not see the +bride. The women who did see her described<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span> +her as very beautiful, barely sixteen years old, +and covered with pearls and diamonds. She was +weeping bitterly; her mother, it appeared, had +arranged the match. I did not see her, but I +saw the bridegroom. He was fat and stupid, +and over sixty, and he had white hair and a +white beard. A priest recited the Koran before +him at the door of the house, and a band played, +and the people cheered the Khedive three times, +and then the crowd parted, and the bridegroom +was marched to the door which led to the stairs, +at the top of which the girl awaited him. Two +grinning eunuchs crouched on this dark staircase, +with lamps held high above their heads, and +closed the door behind him. His sixteen-year-old +bride has him to herself now—him and his +eunuchs—until he or she dies. We could show +similitudes between this wedding and some others +in civilized lands, but it is much too serious a +matter to be cynical about.</p> + +<p>The women of Egypt are as much slaves as +ever were the negroes of our South. They are +petted and fattened and given a home, but they +must look at life through barriers—barriers across +their boxes at the opera, and barriers across the +windows of their broughams when they drive +abroad, and barriers across their very faces. As +long as one-half of the Egyptian people are enslaved +and held in bondage and classed as animals +without souls, so long will an Army of +Occupation ride over the land, and insult by +its presence the khedival power. No country<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> +in these days can be truly great in which the +women have no voice, no influence, and no respect. +There are worse things in Egypt than +bad irrigation, and the harem is the worst of +them. If the Egyptians want to be free themselves, +they should first free their daughters +and their mothers. The educated Egyptian is +ashamed of his national costume; but let him +feel shame for some of his national customs. A +frock-coat and a harem will not go together.</p> + +<p>The English, who have done so many fine +things for Egypt's good, and who keep an army +there to emphasize the fact, have arranged that +any slave who comes to the office of the Consul-General +and claims his protection can have it; +but these slaves of the married men are not granted +even this chance of escape.</p> + +<p>And so they live like birds in a cage. They +eat and dress and undress, and expose their youth +and beauty, and hide their age and ugliness, until +they die. The cry along the Nile a few years ago +was, "Egypt for the Egyptians," and a very good +cry it was, although the wrong man first started it. +But there was another cry raised in the land of +Egypt many hundreds of years before of "Let my +people go," and the woman who can raise that +again to-day, and who can set free her sisters of +the East, will be doing a greater work than any +woman is doing at the present time or has ever +done.</p> + +<p>The women who pass before you in the procession +at the foot of the terrace are of two classes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> +only. There is no middle class in Egypt. The +poor are huddled up in a black bag that hides +their bodies from the crown of the head to the +feet. What looks like the upper end of a black +silk stocking falls over the face from the bridge +of the nose and fastens behind the ears, and a +brass tube about the size of a spool is tied between +the eyes. You see in consequence nothing +but their eyes, and as these are perhaps their best +feature, they do not all suffer from their enforced +disguise. The only women whose bare faces you +can see, and from whom you may judge of the +beauty of the rest, are the good women of the +Coptic village, who form a sort of sisterhood, and +the dancing-girls, who are not so good. Some +of these have the straight nose, the narrow eyes, +and the perfect figure of Cleopatra, as we picture +her; but the faces of the majority are formless, +with broad, fat noses, full lips, and their figures +are without waists or hips, and their ankles are +as round as a man's upper arm. When they are +pretty they are very pretty, but those that are +so are so few and are so covered with gold that +one suspects they are very much the exception. +Of the women of the upper class you see only a +glimpse as they are swept by in their broughams, +with the sais in front and a eunuch on the box +and the curtains half lowered.</p> + + +<div> +<img src="images/illus-123top2.jpg" width="281" height="191" alt="SHADOW_OF_THE_PYRAMID_OF_CHEOPS" title="Shadow of the Pyramid" class="splitlt" /> + + +<a name="SHADOW_OF_THE_PYRAMID_OF_CHEOPS" id="SHADOW_OF_THE_PYRAMID_OF_CHEOPS"></a> + + +<img src="images/illus-123bottom2.jpg" width="485" height="162" alt="Shadow of Pyramid" title="" class="splitlb" /> +</div> + +<div class="caption">SHADOW OF THE PYRAMID OF CHEOPS<br /> + +(From a Photograph taken on the top of the Pyramid just before sunset) +<br /> +</div> + +<p>Besides these, much passes that is intended +for your especial entertainment. Sellers of turquoises, +which they dig out from various creases +in their robes; venders of stuffed crocodiles and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span> +live monkeys; strange men from the desert with +a jackal, which they throw, bound by all four +legs, and snarling and snapping, on the marble +at your feet; little girls who sing songs, and play +accompaniments to them on their throats with +the tips of their fingers; women conjurers, who +draw strings of needles and burning flax from +their mouths, and who swallow nasty little wriggling +snakes, and +hatch pretty fluffy +little chickens out of +the slabs of the terrace. +Or else there +is a troop of blue +and white Egyptian +soldiers marching by, or gorgeous young officers +on polo ponies, or red-coated Tommies on donkeys, +with their toes trailing in the dust and the +ribbons of their Scotch caps floating out behind; +and consuls-general with gorgeous guards in +gold lace, and with wicked-looking curved silver<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> +swords; or the young Khedive himself, who +comes with a great clatter of hoofs and bellowing +sais before, and another galloping troop of +cavalry in the rear, at the sound of which the +people run to the curb and touch the fez, as he +raises his hand to his, and rolls by in a cloud of +dust.</p> + +<p>There are very good things to see, and with a +companion on one side to explain them, and another +on the other side to whom you can impart +this information as though you had been born +knowing it, you cannot spend a more entertaining +afternoon. There is only one drawback, and +that is a lurking doubt that you should be up +and about seeing the show-places. Friday, in +consequence, is the best day in Cairo, as all the +things you ought to see are then closed, and you +can sit still on the terrace with a clear conscience. +Among the mosques and the tombs and the palaces +and museums to which all good tourists go, +and of which there are excellent descriptions, +giving their various dimensions and other particulars, +in the guide-books, there are the Citadel +and the Mosque of Mehemet Ali. The Citadel +is the fortress built on the hill above the city, but +which, with the Oriental incompleteness of that +time, was reared upon high but not upon the +highest ground. The sequel to this naturally was +that when Mehemet Ali wanted the city of Cairo +he sought out the highest ground, and dropped +cannon-balls into the fortress until it capitulated. +He afterwards asked all the Mamelukes to dinner<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> +at the Citadel, and then had them treacherously +killed—all but one, who rode his horse down the +side of the Citadel and escaped. If you can imagine +the reservoir at Forty-second Street placed +upon the top of Madison Square Garden, and a +man riding down the side of it, you can understand +what a very difficult and dangerous thing +this was to do. There is no doubt that he did +it, for I saw a picture of him in the very act in a +book of history when I was at school, and I also +have seen the marks of his horse's hoofs in the +stone parapet of the Citadel, and they are just as +fresh as they were three years ago, when they +were on the other side.</p> + +<p>The Mosque of Mehemet Ali surmounts the +Citadel, and its twin minarets are the distinguishing +mark of Cairo; they are as conspicuous +for miles above the city as is the dome of St. +Paul's over London, and they are as light and +graceful as it is impressive and heavy. The +men on guard tie big yellow shoes on your feet +before they allow you to enter this mosque, the +outer court-yard of which is floored with alabaster, +over which you slide as though you +were on a mirror or a sheet of ice. It is very +beautiful, and one is as unwilling to walk on it +as to tramp in muddy boots over a satin train. +The floor of the mosque is covered with the +most magnificent rugs, as wide-spreading as a +sheet and as heavy as so much gold; alabaster +pillars reach to the top of the square, empty +building, and from these rise five domes, colored<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span> +blue and red, and lightened with gilded letters. +It is very rich-looking, gloomy, silent, and impressive. +It is the best of the mosques. From +the outside, on the ramparts, you can see Cairo +stretching out below for miles in a level gray +jumble of flat roofs and rounded domes and slender +minarets, with the high walls of a palace here +and the thick green of a park there to break the +monotony; beyond it lies the Nile, a twisting +ribbon of silver; and beyond that rich green fields +and canals and bunches of palm-trees; and seven +miles away, where the green ceases and the desert +begins, are three monuments of gray stone, looking, +at that distance, disappointingly small and +familiarly commonplace. It is not, I think, until +you have seen them several times, and have +climbed to their top and gazed up at them from +below, that you appreciate the pyramids as you +had expected to appreciate them; but after +they have laid their charm upon you, you will +find yourself twisting your neck to take another +look, or going out of your way to see +them again before the sun has said good-night +to them, as it has done ever since it first climbed +over the edge of the world and found them waiting +there.</p> + +<p>There is a mosque on the outside of the city +which people visit on certain days to see the +howling dervishes go through their peculiar form +of worship. This mosque consists of four square +walls with a dome. It is whitewashed within, +and bare and rude and old. The sunlight enters<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> +it through square holes cut in the dome, and +beats upon thirty or forty men who stand in a +semicircle facing the East. They are of all sorts, +from Arabs of the desert with long hair and wild +eyes, to fat, pleased-looking merchants from the +bazars, and the beggars and water-carriers of the +streets. Around them on chairs are the tourists +and the residents, like the spectators at a play +rather than the guests of a religious sect watching +a religious ceremony. Most of the men wear +their hats, and some of the women take careful +notes and make sketches. They reminded me +of medical students at a clinic when a man is +being cut up. An archdeacon from one of our +Western cities wore his hat, to show, probably, +that he disapproved of the whole thing; but as +he used to eat with his knife while on board the +<i>Fulda</i>, his conduct in any place was not to be +considered. The priest recites something from +the Koran, and the men repeat it, moving their +bodies back and forward as they do so with gradually +increasing rapidity. What they may be saying +is quite unintelligible, and the chorus they +make resembles that of no human sound, but +rather the gasping or panting of an animal. It +is to the visitor absolutely without any religious +significance; all that is impressive about it is its +horrible earnestness and its at times repulsive results. +As the voice of the priest grows more +accentuated the bodies of the men swing farther +and lower, until their hair sweeps the floor, and +their eyes, when they throw their bodies back,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span> +are on a level with those of the spectators. A +drum beats in quickening time to the voice of the +priest and to the gasps of the dervishes, and a +flute playing a weird accompaniment seems to +mock at their fierce grunts and breathings. It +was one of the most unpleasant exhibitions I +ever witnessed, and affected one's nerves to such +a degree that several of the women had to +leave. The eyes of the men rolled in their sockets, +and their lips parted, and through their +clinched teeth came fiercer and louder gasps, +until the chorus of sound reached you like the +quick panting of an engine as it draws out of +a station. The sweat ran from them like water +from a sponge, and the veins stood out on their +faces, showing in congested knots beneath the +skin. Some of them groaned, and others shrieked +and cried out, "Allah! Allah!" This acted like +the strokes of a whip on the others, who rocked +more and more violently, and swung themselves +almost off their feet. Then, as the music +grew fainter the motion of the bending +bodies grew less vigorous and finally ceased, and +the men stood rigid, some apparently unmoved +and unconcerned, and others turning and reeling +in a fit.</p> + +<p>While this was going forward, and you felt as +though you were assisting at a heathen rite in +which self-punishment was being inflicted as a bid +for God's indulgence, two interesting things happened. +An officer in the English Army of Occupation +turned to his dragoman and cried at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span> +the top of his voice, +angrily: "Do you +call this worth ten +piasters? Well, I +don't. Now if you've +got anything to +show me, take me +to see it. This isn't +worth coming to see. +You're a rank impostor."</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 200px;"><a name="A_SECTION_OF_THE_PYRAMID" id="A_SECTION_OF_THE_PYRAMID"></a> +<img src="images/illus-129.jpg" width="200" height="637" alt="A SECTION OF THE PYRAMID" title="A SECTION OF THE PYRAMID" /> +<span class="caption">A SECTION OF THE PYRAMID</span> +</div> + +<p>The other thing +was the act of a +native woman, who +brought her child to +the door and handed +it to a priest, who +took it in his arms +and passed with it in +front of the swinging, +gasping, crazy +semicircle of men. +The child was about +three years old, and +was dying, and the +mother had brought +it there to be cured +by the breath of the +dervishes. As it +passed before them, +the hair of some of +the men swept its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> +arm, and it turned its frightened eyes up to those +of the priest, who smiled gravely down upon the +baby and bore him outstretched in his arms three +times in front of the swinging crescent. The +faith of the child's mother appealed to some of +us more than did the Englishman's desire to get +his money's worth. The incident is only of interest +here as showing perhaps why the Army +of Occupation is not as popular as it might be. +This officer was no doubt an excellent soldier—the +ribbons on his tunic showed that—and no +one would have thought of questioning his ability +to handle raw recruits or his knowledge of +tactics. But in handling the Egyptian tactics do +not count for so much as tact.</p> + +<p>There are several ways of reaching the pyramids, +and it is eminently in keeping with the +other incongruities of the place and time that the +most popular way of visiting them is on a four-in-hand +coach, with a guard in a red coat and a +bell-shaped white beaver tooting on his horn, and +a young gentleman with a boutonnière and an +unhappy smile holding the reins and working his +way in and out between long strings of camels. +There is a very smart hotel about two hundred +yards from the foot of the pyramids, and you +take a donkey there or a camel and ride up a +sandy road to the base of the Pyramid of Cheops. +There are then several things that you may do. +You can either climb to the top of this first pyramid, +or crawl into its interior, or walk over to see +the Sphinx, or make a tour of subterranean tombs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> +and passageways of alabaster and polished stones, +which are lighted for you by magnesium wire or +stumps of candles.</p> + +<p>It seems absurd to say that the Sphinx is disappointing, +but so many who have seen it say so +that I feel I am one of many, and not individually +lacking in reverence or imagination. In the +first place, the approach to it is bad; you come +at the Sphinx not from the front, but from the +rear, where all you can see of it is a round ball of +crumbling stone spreading out from a neck of +broken outline, much smaller and meaner than +you had imagined it would be. In the second +place, instead of looking up at it, or having it +look down at you, you view it first from a semicircular +ridge of sand, at the bottom of which it +reposes, and at such a near view that whatever +outline or character of countenance it once possessed +is lost. I have seen photographs of the +Sphinx, taken while I was in Cairo, much more +impressive than the Sphinx itself. Lying in a +hollow of the sand hills as it does, the farther you +move away from it in order to get a better focus, +the less you see of it, and as you draw nearer to +it it loses its meaning, as does the scenery of a +theatre when you are on the wrong side of the +foot-lights. I know that that is an unpopular +thing to say, and that there are many who feel +thrills when they first look upon the face of the +Sphinx, and who describe their emotions to you +at length, and who write down their impressions +in their diaries when they get back to the hotel.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span> +But they have come a long way expecting to be +thrilled, and they do not intend to be disappointed. +Some of the sphinxes in the museum of +Gizeh, which you pass on your way to the pyramids, +impressed me more than did the one great +Sphinx, though they were indoors and surrounded +by attendants and the cheap decoration of the +museum, once a palace for the harem. They +were of green stone and of huge proportions, and +with "the curling lip and sneer of cold command"; +and if you look at them long enough +you feel uncomfortable shivers down your back, +and a perfectly irrational impulse to rush at them +and beat them in the face and force them to tell +you what they know and what they have kept +back and have been keeping back for centuries +and centuries. Their faces show that they know +all that we know and much besides that we shall +never know, and when the world at last comes +to an end they will stretch themselves and smile +at one another and say: "Now <i>they</i> know it, but +we knew it all the while. We could have told +had we liked, but we have enjoyed watching +them fretting and fuming and prying about and +tinkering at our faces with their little hammers, +and blowing us up with saltpetre only to try and +put us back again with steam. We who have kept +our secret from Herodotus and Cæsar, are we likely +to give it up to Ebers and Mark Twain?"</p> + +<p>But this same Sphinx by moonlight impressed +me more than did anything I saw in the East. +Not as one sees it by day, with tourists and photographers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span> +and donkey-boys making it cheap +and familiar, but at night, when the tourists had +gone to bed, and the donkey-boys had been paid +to keep out of sight, and the moonlight threw the +great negro face and the pyramids back of it into +shadows of black and lines of silver, and the yellow +desert stretched away on either side so empty +and silent that I thought I was alone and back +two thousand years in the past, discovering the +great monuments for myself, and for the first time.</p> + +<p>Before you ascend the Pyramid of Cheops you +must deal with a middle-man in the person of the +sheik of the pyramids, who selects guides for you, +and who acts as though the pyramids were his +private show, and he was both sole proprietor +and ticket-taker at the door. He lives in a village +near by, and he and his forefathers have always +been allowed a monopoly of the pyramids, +and distribute their patronage to those guides +who will pay them the highest percentage of +what they receive from the visitors. You have +three men to help you, two to pull, and one to +push and to dilate on the view. It takes over +ten minutes to climb to the top, with the men +jerking at your wrists, and the third man shoving +you from below. It is not a difficult feat, +and women accomplish it every day, but it leaves +you in a breathless state when you reach the summit, +and you are stiff above the knees for a day +or two after you have come down. When you +have reached the summit the guides cheer feebly +to give you the idea that you have accomplished<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span> +something which has often been attempted before, +but never so successfully; but you are not +deceived, and you do not feel like cheering yourself. +The view is worth the climb, however, and +the sight of the shadow of the pyramid, spreading +out over the villages and canals below like a +black cloud, impresses you more with its immensity +than the fact that it is a hundred feet higher +than the top of the Diana on the Madison Square +Garden tower. I am sure of this fact, because +the man who built the Madison Square Garden +assured me of it between breaths on the summit +of the pyramid. While you are resting, the thing +to do is to pay one of the guides to attempt to +run down the pyramid you are on, cross the heavy +sand to the pyramid beyond, and reach its top in +eight minutes. When you give the word he disappears +with a bound and drops into space, skipping +and jumping and growing smaller and smaller +as he goes, until he looks like a fluttering +handkerchief; and when he reaches the sand he +is as small as a child of three, and his ascent of +the other pyramid suggests a white pigeon shuffling +up the steep roof of a barn. It is distinctly +on his part a sporting thing to do. The descent +of the pyramid is very much worse than going up, +and you need to go very slowly, and not to look +too often at the people crawling about like ants +below. Only four men, however, in six years +have slipped and fallen during this descent, and +one of them had been drinking. They were all +killed. The more you see of the pyramids the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> +more you want to see of them, although I think +one ascent is all perhaps you will care about taking; +but their dignity and the wonder of their +being where they are, and for so long, increases +with every look at them. You cannot grow too +familiar with the pyramids. They will not have it.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 400px;"><a name="DAHABEEYAHS_ON_THE_NILE_BEFORE_CAIRO" id="DAHABEEYAHS_ON_THE_NILE_BEFORE_CAIRO"></a> +<img src="images/illus-135.jpg" width="400" height="589" alt="DAHABEEYAHS" title="DAHABEEYAHS" /> +<span class="caption">DAHABEEYAHS ON THE NILE BEFORE CAIRO</span> +</div> + +<p>On the road back from the Pyramids of Gizeh +there are other pyramids within sight of Cairo, +but these are those with which the Sphinx is associated. +You will see here one of the most +beautiful sights of Cairo, the dahabeeyahs on the +Nile. They and their white sails, especially when +they come wing and wing before the wind, are +the most beautiful of floating objects, and when +there are hundreds of them coming towards you +in lessening perspective, with the sun shining on +the sails, and the banks on either side alive and +moving with the palms, the river Nile becomes +the best part of Cairo.</p> + +<p>There is another place on the Nile which you +should visit, and to which tourists seldom go. +This is the isle of Rodda, on the bank of which +Moses was found, and where you may see the +Nilometer. This is a well about sixteen feet in +diameter, connected by a channel with the Nile. +It is made of masonry, and down one side there +runs a column on which are inscribed ancient +Arabian and Cufic numerals, or what answer for +numerals. It was dug many centuries ago, and +it marks the rising and falling of the river, and at +the same time the prosperity or dismay of Egypt. +When the tide begins to rise, this rude instrument<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> +is watched hourly, and the hopes of the +people rise and fall as the muddy water moves up +or down the narrow well. When it reaches a +certain height the sheik in charge declares that +the time has come for cutting the banks and irrigating +the land. In ancient days the rate of +taxation was determined by the height of the inundation, +and it is said that the sheik in charge +of the Nilometer is still under the influence of +the government, to whose advantage it is to make +the fellahin believe that the inundation is favorable. +It was the engineers under Napoleon who +discovered that the Nilometer was being tampered +with, but there is no likelihood of its being +abused to-day under the English, whose improvement +of the irrigation of Egypt has been their +best work, and for the fellahin's best good. But it +is interesting, nevertheless, to look down into the +old well, overgrown with vines and surrounded +by ruin and crumbling walls and broken lattices, +and to think that for centuries it brought news +of famine or of plenty, and that it was, primitive +as its construction is, the pulse of Egypt.</p> + +<p>The pulse of Egypt to-day is not shown in the +mere rising or falling of a body of water. It is +less primitive in its construction, and no one +knows which way it is going to jump. In the +next chapter I shall try to tell something of the +men who have their fingers on Egypt's pulse, +and who are agreed in only one thing—that there +are too many fingers for Egypt's good.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span></p> +<h2>V</h2> + +<h3>THE ENGLISHMEN IN EGYPT</h3> + + +<p>When the visitor to Cairo first grasps +the extent of his own ignorance of +Egypt, and appreciates that if he is +to understand its monuments and +the signs of past times about him +he must study the history of the whole world +for forty centuries, he is apt to retreat precipitately. +Later, as a compromise, he proposes +skipping thirty-nine centuries and limiting his researches +to the study of the political and social +conditions of Egypt during the last ten years. +And when he begins jauntily on this he finds that +all that has gone before, from Rameses II. to +Mehemet Ali, is as simple as the line of Popes in +comparison with the anomalies and intricacies of +government that have arisen within the last decade. +Yet the very intricacies of the subject give +to this study a fascination entirely apart from its +rare picturesqueness, and no matter what manner +of man he may be, he cannot but find some side +of the situation which appeals to him. If his mind +be constituted like that of a ready reckoner he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span> +can revel in unravelling the intricacies of the +Caisse and the Laws of Liquidation; if it is judicial, +he can perhaps elucidate the powers of the +Mixed Tribunal; if romantic, he has the career +of Ismail, the most magnificent of patriots and +profligate of monarchs; and if it turns towards +adventure and the clash of arms, he can read of +the heroic fanaticism of Fuzzy Wuzzy, the son +of the Mahdi, of the futile mission of Gordon, of +Stewart's march across the desert, and of the desperate +valor of the fight at Aboo-Klea.</p> + +<p>But it is the paradoxical nature of Egypt's +present situation which gives it its chief interest, +and lends to it the peculiar fascination of a puzzle, +or one of Whistler's witticisms. For, while +Egypt is not free, as is Morocco, nor under a +protectorate, as is Tunis, she is still free and still +protected. She is free to coin money, to maintain +an army, and to make treaties; and yet she +pays six million dollars a year tribute to Turkey +as a part of the Ottoman Empire, and her army +that she is allowed to maintain is officered by English +soldiers, whom she is also allowed to maintain. +She may not pay out the money she is allowed +to coin without the consent of foreigners; she +cannot punish the man who steals this money, be +he Greek, English, or American, without the approval +of these foreigners; and her official language +is that of one foreign power, her ostensible +protector is another, and her real protector is still +another, whose commands are given under the +irritating disguise of "advice."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 607px;"><a name="EGYPTIAN_INFANTRY_IN_THEIR_DIFFERENT_UNIFORMS" id="EGYPTIAN_INFANTRY_IN_THEIR_DIFFERENT_UNIFORMS"></a> +<img src="images/illus-141.jpg" width="607" height="350" alt="EGYPTIAN INFANTRY" title="EGYPTIAN INFANTRY" /> +<span class="caption">EGYPTIAN INFANTRY IN THEIR DIFFERENT UNIFORMS</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span>Alfred Milner, the late under-secretary for finance +in Egypt, whose <i>England in Egypt</i> is the +best book on the subject, though it reads like a +novel, has put it in this way: "It is not given +to mortal intelligence to understand at one blow +the complexities of Turkish suzerainty and foreign +treaty rights; to realize the various powers +of interference and obstruction possessed by +consuls and consuls-general, by commissioners +of the public debt, and other mixed administrations; +to distinguish English officers who are +English from English officers who are Egyptian, +foreign judges of the international courts from +foreign judges of the native courts; to follow +the writhings of the Egyptian government in its +struggle to escape from the fine meshes of the +capitulations; to appreciate precisely what laws +that government can make with the consent of +only six powers, and for what laws it requires the +consent of no less than fourteen."</p> + +<p>It seems rather unfair to saddle the responsibility +for all of these burdens and for this remarkable +condition of affairs, which is unequalled +in history, upon the shoulders of one man, but +one man is responsible for it directly and indirectly. +He is still alive, a hanger on at the +court of the Sultan of Turkey, he who was at +one time the most picturesque monarch of the +world. Ismail Pasha became Khedive a little +before the time of the close of our Civil War. +Egypt had never been more prosperous than then—owing +but fifteen million dollars. In 1876, when<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span> +Ismail was deposed and his son Tewfik Pasha put +in his place, he had increased the debt of Egypt to +four hundred and forty-five million dollars. Ismail +was a typical Oriental ruler; he had the typical +Oriental ruler's French veneer and education, +a combination which has been found to produce +most serious results. When an Oriental is left +alone he is a barbarian, or he used to be; now, +after he has been made the talk of Paris for nine +days, and has been given a state dinner at Marlborough +House, and a few stars for his coat, and +called "cousin," he goes home with no particular +disgust for his former eccentricities of mis-government, +but with a quiver full of new tastes, desires, +and ambitions, and thereafter plays his rôle +of monarch with one eye on the grand stands of +Europe. He wants their good opinion, but he +wants to get it in his own way—the old way. He +begins to build railroads and hospitals, but he continues, +after his past custom, to draw the money +for such improvements from licensed gambling-houses +or from the sale of opium. He has a +French cook, but he retains the kurbash; he puts +up telephones, but he does not give up the bowstring.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 250px;"><a name="RIAZ_PASHA_PRIME-MINISTER_OF_EGYPT" id="RIAZ_PASHA_PRIME-MINISTER_OF_EGYPT"></a> +<img src="images/illus-145.jpg" width="250" height="309" alt="RIAZ PASHA" title="RIAZ PASHA" /> +<span class="caption">RIAZ PASHA,<br /> + +Prime-minister of Egypt</span> +</div> + +<p>Ismail was the first Khedive who discovered +that the easiest way to get money is to borrow +it. He found that all one has to do is to sign a +paper, and you get the money. It was very easy +for Ismail to borrow money, because the credit +of Egypt was good and sound in itself, and because +foreigners, who even at that time swarmed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> +in Egypt, knew that the repudiation of debts, +while possible in a powerful or free government, +was not to be feared from that country. So there +began a reign of extravagance for which history +has no parallel. If +"money breeds money," +it is also true +that those who spend +money freely are given +more chances to +do so than any one +else. Adventurers, +charlatans, rascals of +every climate and +every nationality, +swarmed down upon +Cairo, and fought +with one another +for a chance to glut +themselves at the repast +which this reckless +profligate spread +for all comers. No man probably was ever so +basely cheated as was Ismail, or on so magnificent +a scale. And nothing remains but ruins to +show where the money spent on his own personal +pleasure was bestowed. That other magnificent +reprobate, William M. Tweed, left monuments +like the Court House to commemorate +his thefts of public money; but Ismail's palaces +are falling in pieces, the rain has washed +the paint off the boards, the tips of the crescents<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span> +are broken, and great gardens filled with fountains +and mosaic paths are choked with weeds and +covered with fallen leaves and the dirt and dust +of neglect and decay. You can walk over long +marble floors which have sunk by their own +weight through the rotten foundations, and see +yourself at full length in bleared mirrors surrounded +by the gilt borders and blue silken curtains +of the Second Empire. Ismail ordered +these palaces as men order hats, and threw them +away as you toss an empty cartridge from a gun-barrel. +And that was all the most of them ever +were, empty cartridges, mere shells of wood painted +to look like marble, and gilding and mirrors, +as tasteless as the buildings at the Centennial +Exposition, and lasting as long.</p> + +<p>And yet they pleased him, and he ordered +more and more, so that wherever his eye might +rest it would fall upon a palace which would +serve as a fitting covering for his royal person, +and as a testimony to his magnificence. He +wanted many, and he wanted them at once. He +had them built at night by the light of candles. +The Palace of Gizeh, which is now a museum, +was reared in this way while Cairo slept, and +at a cost of twenty-four million dollars. The +curtains ordered for its windows cost one thousand +dollars each, and when it was found that +they did not fit the windows, the entire front of +the building was torn down, and a new front +with windows to match the curtains was put in +its place. He built an opera-house as fine as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> +that of Covent Garden in six months, and a grotto +as dark and cool as the Mammoth Cave, with +stalactites of painted rope and rocks of papier-maché +and mud, with its sides lined with aquariums, +in which swam strange fish. The wind and +the dust play through this grotto to-day; for he +no sooner reared a palace in air than he turned +from it to some new toy. These are the things +you can see. You can hear stories—some of +them true, some of them possible—of things that +are past, such as his swimming-tanks where a +hundred of the slaves of the harem bathed together +for his edification; the pie out of which, +when it was opened, there stepped a ballet-dancer; +and the story of the disappearance of the +Pasha who grew too rich. This is, unfortunately, a +true story, and not one out of the <i>Arabian Nights</i>. +This Pasha was invited by Ismail to see a new +dahabeeyah, and never returned. But one of +the attendants on the Khedive came back some +weeks later with his finger bitten off at the joint. +He and Ismail alone know where the Pasha who +was too rich has gone.</p> + +<p>These extravagances and these eccentricities +were all in keeping with our idea of what an +Oriental despot should be, but it would be most +unfair and ungenerous to give only this side of +Ismail's character. He was a man of much mind +and of large ideas, as well as a man with the +tastes of a voluptuary, and the means, for a time, +of a Count of Monte Cristo. It was he who +built the harbor of Alexandria; and the railways<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span> +and canals that others have completed were +started under his régime. All of these things—railroads, +palaces, canals, and grottos made of +mud—cost money; and there were other expenses. +Knights of industry and rascals of all +degrees extorted vast fortunes from him in indemnities +for supposed failures on his part to +keep up with his agreements, and to stick to the +letter of concessions. Some of these, like the payment +of fifteen million dollars to the Suez Canal +Company, were just enough; but there was also +an enormous sum given in backsheesh to Turkey +to gain the consent of the Porte to a proposed +change in the line of succession and the establishment +of the rule of primogeniture. Up to +that time the eldest male member of the ruling +family had always succeeded to power, but Ismail +obtained a firman from the Sultan allowing his +son to follow him. The gratification of this natural +vanity or love of family was not obtained +for the asking, and cost his people dear. They +were already groaning under a multitude of +taxes; the army was unpaid; the bureaucracy +was rotten throughout; bribery and extortion, +unfair taxation, and open seizure of the property +of others had reduced the country almost to +bankruptcy. Ismail in sixteen years had brought +about a state of things that threatened utter ruin, +to not only the native, but to the strangers within +and without the gates. The strangers made the +move for reform. I have told this much of Ismail +not because it is new or unfamiliar, but because<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span> +it shows how, through his misrule, the foreign +element was able to obtain a footing upon the +shore of Egypt, which footing has now grown to +a trampling under foot of what is native and +properly Egyptian. This entering wedge was +called the Dual Control, and France and England +were appointed receivers for Egypt, just as we +appoint receivers for a badly managed railroad, +and Ismail was deposed, his son Tewfik taking +his place.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 450px;"><a name="AN_EGYPTIAN_LANCER" id="AN_EGYPTIAN_LANCER"></a> +<img src="images/illus-149.jpg" width="450" height="535" alt="AN EGYPTIAN LANCER" title="AN EGYPTIAN LANCER" /> +<span class="caption">AN EGYPTIAN LANCER</span> +</div> + +<p>But although this was the first important and +most official recognition of the right of the +stranger to dictate to Egypt, he had already obtained +peculiar rights in Egypt through capitulations, +or those privileges granted in the past to +foreign residents in Turkey and its dependent +state of Egypt. In the sixteenth century the +foreigners who traded in these Oriental countries +stood in actual need of protection from the natives. +Because they were foreigners they were +regarded with such lack of consideration that, in +order to balance the disadvantages of having +their shops destroyed and their throats cut, the +Sultan gave them certain privileges—such as immunity +from taxation, immunity from arrest, the +inviolability of domicile, and the exemption from +the jurisdiction of the local courts.</p> + +<p>These privileges were unimportant when the +foreign element in Constantinople was so little +and so weak that the position of the Chinamen in +San Francisco in '49 was that of a powerful aristocracy +in comparison; but the snake warmed at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span> +the hearth-stone grew, and the Sultan's empire +dwindled, and the privileges which were given to +bribe the foreigner to come and to remain became +a bane to Turkey and a curse to the weaker state +of Egypt. The inviolability of domicile, for instance, +is at this very day made use of by foreigners +who are carrying on some wickedness or who +have committed a crime for which they cannot +be arrested by an Egyptian policeman unless he is +accompanied by an official representative of the +country to which the foreigner belongs. Let us +suppose, for example, that the police of New York +wished to raid a gambling-house. This, I know, +is asking a good deal of the reader's intelligence, +but we will suppose it to be a gambling-house +which has not paid its assessment to the police +regularly, and which should be given a lesson. +All that the proprietor of the house would have to +do, did capitulations extend in New York, would +be to lease the house to an Italian, or to take out +papers of naturalization from the British government. +You can imagine the chagrin of an officer +of the law who, when he goes to make an arrest, +is confronted with a German who says he is an +Englishman, and whose domicile is accordingly +sacred. This, as you can imagine, would impede +the wheels of justice.</p> + +<p>When I was in Cairo a Greek, who had taken +out papers as an American citizen, flaunted this +fact in the faces of the native police whenever +they came to arrest him for keeping a gambling-house. +They applied to our consul-general,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> +Mr. E. C. Little, of Abilene, Kansas, who +so far differed from the etiquette observed by +some other consuls-general in Cairo as not to +delay and not to warn the criminal. He sent +his soldiers to be present at the arrest. The offender +met this by bringing forth another American +citizen of Greek parentage, to whom he +claimed to have leased the house, and whose +family were inside. Mr. Little, feeling that the +American flag did not look well as a cloak +for gambling-houses, +and being a young +man who has assisted +at county-seat +fights and who can +pitch three curves, +said that if the roulette +tables were not +out of the house in +twenty-four hours he +would himself break +them into kindling-wood +with an axe. +This incident shows +how the capitulations +of the sixteenth +century are acting as +stumbling-blocks to +the Egyptian of to-day, even when the consuls-general +are willing to assist the native government, +which is seldom.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 250px;"><a name="TIGRANE_PASHA_MINISTER_OF_FOREIGN_AFFAIRS" id="TIGRANE_PASHA_MINISTER_OF_FOREIGN_AFFAIRS"></a> +<img src="images/illus-153.jpg" width="250" height="321" alt="TIGRANE PASHA" title="TIGRANE PASHA" /> +<span class="caption">TIGRANE PASHA,<br /> + +Minister of Foreign Affairs</span> +</div> + +<p>This is not all. The immunity from full taxation,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> +now that the foreigners are among the richest +inhabitants of Cairo, is most manifestly unjust; +and though the mixed courts of an international +judiciary have done away with trial of the foreign +resident, or lack of trial, in civil cases, by the several +consuls-general, the abuses of the capitulations +are still a grievous and most unjust imposition +by the great powers, ourselves included, upon +a weaker one. To return to the Dual Control and +to the story of the growth of the foreigners' hold +on Egypt. The Dual Control was unpopular; so +was the foreigner and his capitulations, who, waxing +fat on the weaknesses of the country after Ismail's +debauchery of its strength, grew insolent—so +insolent that the cry raised by a general in the +Khedive's army of "Egypt for the Egyptians" was +taken up, and found expression in the Arabist +movement or rebellion. Its leader was Arabi +Pasha. He wanted what the Know-Nothing +party of America wanted—his country for his +countrymen. What else he wanted for himself +does not matter here. He was, in the eyes of +the Khedive, a rebel. In the eyes of some of the +people he was the would-be preserver of his country +against the plague of the foreign invasion.</p> + +<p>The trouble began at Alexandria, where the +excited people attacked the foreign residents, killing +some, and destroying valuable property. Men-of-war +of the two powers represented in the Dual +Control had already arrived to put down the rebellion. +When the riot on shore was at its height, +the English war-vessels bombarded the city. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> +bombarding of Alexandria was war, but it was +not magnificent. There are certain things made +to be bombarded—forts and ships of war—but +cities are not built for that purpose or with that +ultimate end in view. The English people, as +a people, however, regret the bombardment of +Alexandria as much as any one. The French +war-vessels, for their part, refused to join the +bombardment, and so were requested by the +English admiral to sail away and give the other +half of the Dual Control a clear field. Different +people give you different reasons for the departure +of the French fleet at this crisis. Some say +that M. Clemenceau, who hated M. Freycinet and +his policy, possibly raised the cry of the German +wolf on the frontier, and pointed out the danger +at home if the army and navy were engaged +otherwise than in protecting the border. Others +say that, like the good one of the two robbers in +the <i>Babes in the Wood</i>, one of the Dual Control +drew the line at murder or at the bombardment +of a country she was supposed to protect. Plundering +the Egyptians was possible, but not bombarding +their city. They stopped at that. The +English followed up the bombardment of Alexandria +by the battle of Tel-el-Kebir, which ended +the rebellion. The Citadel of Cairo surrendered +at their approach, and the Khedive's rule was +again undisturbed. The English remained, however, +to "restore order," and to see to the "organization +of proper means for the maintenance +of the Khedive's authority." They have been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> +doing that now for ten years, and it is interesting +to note that they have made so little progress +that the last "disorder" in Cairo was due to the +action of the British consul-general himself in +allowing the young Khedive just twenty-four +hours in which to dismiss one of his cabinet. +This can hardly be described as "maintaining the +authority of the Khedive," which the English +had promised to do.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="A_CAMEL_CORPS_PATROL_AT_WADI_HALFA" id="A_CAMEL_CORPS_PATROL_AT_WADI_HALFA"></a> +<img src="images/illus-157.jpg" width="400" height="578" alt="CAMEL CORPS PATROL" title="CAMEL CORPS PATROL" /> +<span class="caption">A CAMEL CORPS PATROL AT WADI HALFA</span> +</div> + +<p>After the battle of Tel-el-Kebir Great Britain +stood undoubtedly in the position of the savior of +the Khedive if not of Egypt. Her soldiers had +crushed the rebellion, and as she had sent her +Only General and one of the royal family and +many thousands of good men to do it, and as +she had lost not only men, but money, she +thought she deserved something in return. The +something she has taken in return has been +taken gradually, and is the control of Egypt at +the present day. It is possible that had the +English not lost many more men and much more +money in the campaign in the Soudan, which followed +immediately after the suppression of Arabi, +they might not have gone so far as they have gone +in settling themselves in Egypt. But there was +a not unnatural feeling that the Soudan campaign, +which had cost so much, and which was a +failure in all but in showing the bravery of the +British troops, ought to be paid for, or made up +to the English in some way. I should like to go +into the story of this most picturesque and heroic +of campaigns, but it would require a book by itself.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> +Its history is briefly this: The religious and +military chieftain known as "the Mahdi," shortly +after the defeat of Arabi, threatened all Egypt +from the Soudan, which rose under his leadership. +General Hicks, an Englishman, with ten thousand +men, in the service of the Khedive, was sent +against him. He was killed, and most of the +troops with him. The English, who were at that +time the only power in Egypt with authority of +any sort back of it, and who were virtually in +control, felt that they should take the responsibilities +of their position as well as its benefits, +and avenge the massacre, drive back the Mahdi's +forces, and, if possible, crush him and them for +all time. The campaign was later further complicated +by the presence at Khartoom of Major-General +C. G. Gordon, who had gone there to lead +back in safety the Egyptian troops still remaining +in the Soudan. He was, after his arrival at +Khartoom, virtually a prisoner at that place, which +is a mud city on the banks of the Nile far above +the fifth cataract. The attempts to rescue him +and to suppress the Mahdi were equally unsuccessful.</p> + +<p>This is, in a few words, the story of a campaign +which has been unequalled within the last +twenty years in picturesqueness, heroism, and +dramatic surprises. It had been said that the old +days of personal bravery, of hand-to-hand slaughter, +and of the attack and defence of man against +man, were at an end; that owing to the new +weapons of war, by which an enemy can be attacked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span> +when several miles distant from the attacking +party, when the pressing of an electric +button destroys an army corps, and when turning +a handle will send three hundred bullets a +minute into a mass of infantry, the necessity for +personal courage was over. But seldom in history +has there been as fierce personal encounters +as in the Soudan, or as unusual methods of warfare. +On the one hand were the naked supporters +of the Mahdi, armed with their spears and +knives, and protected only by bull-hide shields, +but actuated by a religious fanaticism that drove +them exulting at their enemies, and with no +fear of death, but with the belief that through it +they would gain joyous and proud immortality. +Against them were the British troops, outnumbered +ten to one, with hundreds of miles of sandy +desert before, behind, and on every side of them, +cut off from communication with the outside +world, in a country barren and unfamiliar, and +attacked by tens of thousands, who came when +they pleased and where they pleased, rising as +swiftly as a sand-storm rises, and disappearing +again as suddenly into the desert.</p> + +<p>When I was in Cairo I was told of one of the +Mahdi's men who continually rushed at a British +square during an engagement holding his shield +clear of his body as he advanced to throw a spear, +and then retreated again. This looked like the +worst form of foolhardiness to the English, until +they saw that he was protecting with his shield +his little boy, who was hiding behind it, and that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> +when the chance offered, +this child, who +could not have been +more than seven, and +who was as naked of +protection as his father, +would throw a +spear of his own. The +father was wounded +four times, but each +time the bullet struck +him he only shook +himself, as a dog +shakes off water, and +once more rushed forward. When he fell for the +last time the boy tumbled across him, unconscious +from a wound in his thigh. The surgeons dressed +this wound and bandaged it; but when the child +came to and saw what they had done, he leaped up +and tore the clothes from around him, and then, +as the blood from the reopened wound ran out, +fell over backwards dead. The English officer +who told this story asked if fighting such men +could be considered agreeable work from any +point of view.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"><a name="H._H._ABBAS_II._KHEDIVE_OF_EGYPT" id="H._H._ABBAS_II._KHEDIVE_OF_EGYPT"></a> +<img src="images/illus-161.jpg" width="300" height="313" alt="H. H. ABBAS II." title="H. H. ABBAS II." /> +<span class="caption">H. H. ABBAS II.<br /> + +Khedive of Egypt</span> +</div> + +<p>But the Soudan is only of interest here as showing +how, having lost so much through it, the +British did not feel more inclined than before to +evacuate Egypt, although there were many who +thought, as a few still think, that Egypt has cost +them too much already, and more than they can +ever get back. The loss of Gordon was perhaps<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> +the disaster of all the most keenly felt. How +keenly is shown partly by the statue the English +have placed to him in Trafalgar Square, surrounded +by their kings and greatest generals. It +shows him with one foot placed on the battlement +of Khartoom, with his arms folded, and with +the head thrown slightly forward, looking out, as +he had done for so many weary months, for the +relief that came too late. This monument is a +reproach to those whose uncertainty of mind and +purpose cost Gordon his life. It was doing a +brave thing to put it up in a public place, being, +as it is, a standing reminder of the neglect and +half-heartedness that lost a valuable life, and one +that had been risked again and again for his +country. It is not only a monument to General +Gordon, but to the English people, who have had +the courage to admit in bronze and stone that +they were wrong.</p> + +<p>For the last ten years the English have been as +tardy in getting out of Egypt as they were in +going after Gordon into the Soudan. They have +repeatedly declared their intention of evacuating +the country, not only in answer to questions in +the House, but in answer to the inquiries of foreign +powers. But they are still there. They +have not been idle while there, and they have accomplished +much good, and have brought benefits +innumerable to Egypt. They have improved +her systems of irrigation, upon which the prosperity +of the land depends, have strengthened her +army, have done away with the corvee, or tax<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> +paid on labor, and with the kurbash, or whip used +in punishment, and, what is much the most wonderful, +they have brought her out of ruin into +such a condition of prosperity that she not only +pays the interest on her enormous debt, but has a +little left over for internal improvements. There +has also been a marked change for the better in +the condition of the courts of justice, and there +has been an extension of a railroad up the Nile +as far as Sirgeh.</p> + +<p>But the English to-day not only want credit +for having done all this, but they want credit for +having done it unselfishly and without hope or +thought of reward, and solely for the good of +mankind and of Egypt in particular. They remind +me of those of the G. A. R. who not only +want pensions and medals, but to be considered +unselfish saviors of their country in her hour of +need. There is no reason why a man should not +be held in honor for risking his life for his country's +sake, and honors, if he wants them, should +be heaped upon him, but not money too. He +either served his country because he was loyal +and brave, or because he wanted money in return +for taking certain risks. Let him have either the +honors or the money, but he should not be so +greedy as to want both. England has made a +very good thing out of Egypt, and she has not +yet got all she will get, but she wants the world +to forget that and look upon her as an unselfish +and enlightened nation that is helping a less prosperous +and less powerful people to get upon their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span> +feet again. Of course it is none of our business +(at least it is our policy to say so) when England +stalks forth like a roaring lion seeking what she +may devour all over the world. Americans travel +chiefly upon the Continent, and unless they go +into out-of-the-way corners of the world they have +no idea how little there is left of it that has not +been seized by the people of Great Britain. For +my own part I find one grows a little tired of +getting down and sailing forth and landing again +always under the shadow of the British flag. If +the United States should begin with Hawaii and +continue to annex other people's property, we +should find that almost all of the best corner lots +and post-office sites of the world have been +already pre-empted. Senator Wolcott once said +to Senator Quay: "I understand, Quay, you want +the chairmanship of the Library Committee. You +seem to want the earth; if you don't look out you +will interfere with my plans."</p> + +<p>If the United States had taken away the little +princess's island from her and continued to plunder +weaker nations, she would have found that England +wants the earth too, and that she is in a fair +way of getting it if some one does not stop her +very soon. There are a number of good people in +England who believe that for the last ten years +their countrymen have spent their time and money +in redeeming Egypt as a form of missionary work, +and there are others quite as naïve who put the +whole thing in a word by saying, "What would we +do with our younger sons if it was not for Egypt?"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 400px;"><a name="THE_GUN_MULE_OF_THE_MULE_BATTERY" id="THE_GUN_MULE_OF_THE_MULE_BATTERY"></a> +<img src="images/illus-165.jpg" width="400" height="497" alt="THE GUN MULE" title="THE GUN MULE" /> +<span class="caption">THE GUN MULE OF THE MULE BATTERY</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span>Three-fourths of the officers in the army of the +Khedive are English boys, who rank as second +lieutenants at home and as majors in Egypt. +They are paid just twice what they are paid in +the English army, and it is the Khedive who +pays them and not the English. In this way +England obtains three things: she is saved the +cost of supporting that number of officers; she +gets the benefit of their experience in Egypt, +which is an excellent training-school, at the expense +of the Egyptians; and she at the same +time controls the Egyptian army by these same +officers, and guards her own interests at Egypt's +cost. And as if this were not enough, she plants +an Army of Occupation upon the country, and +with it menaces the native authority. The irrigation +of Egypt has of late been carried on by +Englishmen entirely and paid for by Egypt; +her railroads are built by the English; her big +contracts are given out to English firms and to +English manufacturers; and the railroad which +will be built to Kosseir on the Red Sea may +have been designed in Egypt's interest to carry +wheat, or it may have been planned to carry +troops to the Red Sea in the event of the +seizure of the Suez Canal or of any other impediment +to the shortest route to India. We +may not believe that the Egyptians are capable +of governing themselves, we may believe that it +is written that others than themselves shall always +rule them and their country, but we must +prefer that whoever do this should declare themselves<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span> +openly, and act as conquerors who come +and remain as conquerors, and not as "advisers" +and restorers of order. Napoleon came to Cairo +with flags flying and drums beating openly as an +enemy; he did not come in the disguise of a +missionary or an irrigation expert.</p> + +<p>And there is always the question whether if +left alone the Egyptians of the present day could +not govern themselves. Those of the Egyptians +I met who were in authority are not men who +are likely to return to the debauchery and misrule +of Ismail. They would be big men in any +country; they are cultivated, educated gentlemen, +who have served in different courts or on +many important diplomatic missions, and whose +tastes and ambitions are as creditable and as +broad as are those of their English contemporaries.</p> + +<p>The two most prominent advisers of the Khedive +at present are his Prime-minister, Riaz +Pasha, and his Minister of Foreign Affairs, Tigrane +Pasha. The first of these is a Turk, the +second an Armenian and a Christian. It is told +of Riaz that he was brought to Egypt when a +boy as a slave. A man who can rise from such a +beginning to be Prime-minister must have something +in him. He showed his spirit and his desire +for his country's good in the time of Ismail, +whose extravagances both he and Nubar Pasha +strenuously opposed, and his aid to the English +in establishing Egyptian finance on a firmer footing +was ready and invaluable. He has held almost<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span> +every position in the cabinet of Egypt, and +is not too old a man to learn new methods, and if +left alone is experienced and accomplished enough +as a statesman to manage for himself.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 300px;"><a name="LORD_CROMER_THE_ENGLISH_DIPLOMATIC_AGENT_IN_EGYPT" id="LORD_CROMER_THE_ENGLISH_DIPLOMATIC_AGENT_IN_EGYPT"></a> +<img src="images/illus-169.jpg" width="300" height="387" alt="LORD CROMER" title="LORD CROMER" /> +<span class="caption">LORD CROMER,<br /> + +The English Diplomatic Agent in Egypt</span> +</div> + +<p>Tigrane Pasha struck me as being more of a +diplomat than a statesman, but he showed his +strength by the fact that he understood the weak +points of the Egyptians as well as their virtues. +It is not the enthusiast who believes that all in +his country is perfect who is the best patriot. +To say that such a man as this—a man who has +a better knowledge of many different governments +than half of the English cabinet have of +their own, and who wishes the best for his Khedive +and his country—needs the advice or support +of an English resident minister, is as absurd as to +say that the French +cabinet should govern +themselves by +the manifestoes of +the Comte de Paris. +These men are not +barbarians nor despots; +they have not +gained their place in +the world by favor or +inheritance. Their +homes are as rich in +treasures of art and +history and literature +as are the homes of +Lord Rosebery or Sir<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span> +Henry Drummond Wolff, and if they care for +their country and the authority of their Khedive, +it is certainly hard that they may not have the +right of serving both undisturbed.</p> + +<p>The Khedive himself has been very generally +represented through the English press as a "sulky +boy" who does not know what is best for him. +It is just as easy to describe him as a plucky boy +who wishes to govern his own country and his +own people in his own way. And not only is he +not allowed to do this, but he is treated with a +lack of consideration by his protectors which adds +insult to injury, and makes him appear as having +less authority than is really his. He might very +well say to Lord Cromer, "It was all very well to +dissemble your love, but why did you kick me +down-stairs?"</p> + +<p>Sir Evelyn Baring, now Lord Cromer, and the +ruling figure in Egypt, has served his country as +faithfully and as successfully as any man in her +debt to-day. He has been in Egypt from the +beginning of these ten years, and he has been +given almost unlimited power and authority by +his own country, of which his nominal position of +Consul-General and Diplomatic Agent is no criterion. +He is a typical Englishman in appearance, +broad-shouldered and big all over, with a +smooth-shaven face, and the look of having just +come fresh from a bath. In conversation he +thinks much more of what he has to say than of +how he says it; by that I mean that he is direct, +and even abrupt; the Egyptians found him most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span> +unpleasantly so. But were he more tactful, he +would probably have been better liked personally, +but would not have succeeded in doing what +he has done so well.</p> + +<p>I do not like what he has done, but I want to +be fair in showing that for the work he was sent +to do he is probably the best man England could +have selected. A man less self-reliant might +have feared to compromise himself with home +authorities, and would have temporized and lost +where Lord Cromer bullied and browbeat and +won. He is a very remarkable man. He studies +for a half-hour every day after breakfast, and +plays tennis in the afternoon. When he is in +his own room, with a pipe in his mouth, he +can talk more interestingly and with more exact +knowledge of Egypt than any man in the world, +and your admiration for him is unbounded. In +the rooms of the legation, on the contrary, or, +again, when advising a minister of the Khedive +or the Khedive himself, he can be as intensely +disagreeable in his manner and as powerfully +aggressive as a polar-bear. During the last so-called +"crisis" he gave the Khedive twenty-four +hours in which to dismiss his Prime-minister. +He did this with the assurance from the English +Foreign Office that the home government would +support him. He then cabled with one hand to +Malta for troops and with the other stopped the +Black Watch at Aden on their way to India, and +called them back to Cairo, after which he went +out in full sight of the public and banged tennis<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span> +balls about until sunset. A man who can call +out "forty, love!" "forty, fifteen!" in a calm voice +two hours after sending an ultimatum to a Khedive +and disarranging the movements of six thousand +of her Majesty's troops will get what he +wants in the end, and a boy of eighteen is hardly +a fair match for him.</p> + +<p>As I have said, the English press have misrepresented +the young Khedive in many ways. +He is, in the first place, much older both in appearance +and manner and thought than his age +would suggest, and if he is sulky to Englishmen +it is not to be wondered at. They could hardly +expect his Highness to regard them as seriously +as his friends as they regard themselves. +The Khedive gave me a private audience at the +Abdine Palace while I was in Cairo, and from +what he said then and from what others who are +close to him told me of him, I obtained a very +different idea of his personality than I had received +from the English.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 541px;"><a name="A_GUN_OF_THE_MULE_BATTERY_IN_ACTION" id="A_GUN_OF_THE_MULE_BATTERY_IN_ACTION"></a> +<img src="images/illus-173.jpg" width="541" height="400" alt="GUN OF THE MULE BATTERY" title="GUN OF THE MULE BATTERY" /> +<span class="caption">A GUN OF THE MULE BATTERY IN ACTION</span> +</div> + +<p>He struck me as being distinctly obstinate—a +characteristic which is so marked in our President +that it can only be considered one of the qualifications +for success, and is probably the quality in +the Khedive which the English describe as sulkiness. +What I liked in him most was his pride +in his army and in the Egyptian people as Egyptians. +It is always well that a ruler should be so +enthusiastic over what is his own that he shows +it even to the casual stranger, for if he exhibits it +to him, how much more will he show it to his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span> +people! The Khedive has gentle tastes, and is +said to find his amusement in his garden and +among flowers and on the farm lands of his estates; +he speaks several languages very well, and +dresses and looks—except for the fez and his attendants—like +any other young man of twenty-three +or twenty-four in Paris or New York. His +ministers, who know him best, describe him as +having a high spirit, and one that, as he grows +older and will be guided by greater experience, +will lead him to firmer authority for his own good +and for the good of his people.</p> + +<p>One remark of the Khedive's which is of interest +to Americans was to the effect that the officers +in his army who had been trained by Stone +Bey, and those other American officers who entered +the Egyptian army after the end of our Civil +War, were, in his opinion, the best-trained men in +their particular department in his army. This is +the topographical work, and the making of maps +and drawings; but those Americans who are in +charge of Egyptian troops on the frontier are also +well esteemed. It is the English, however, who +have made the fighting part of the army what it +is. Before they came the troops were unpaid, +and badly treated by their officers, but now the +infantry and the camel corps and artillery have +no trouble in getting recruits.</p> + +<p>The Egyptian is not a natural fighter, as is the +Soudanese, who fights for love of it, but he has +shown lately that when properly officered and +trained and well treated, he can defend a position<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span> +or attack boldly if led boldly. I suggested to the +Khedive that he should borrow some of our officers, +those who have succeeded so well with the +negroes of the Ninth Cavalry and with the Indians, +for it seemed to me that this would be of +benefit to both the officers and the Egyptian +soldier. It was this suggestion that called forth +the Khedive's admiration for the Americans of +his army; but, as a matter of fact, the English +would never allow officers of any other nationality +than their own to control even a company +of the Egyptian army. They cannot turn out +those foreigners who are already in, but they can +dictate as to who shall come hereafter, and they +fill all the good billets with their own people; +and if there is one thing an Englishman apparently +holds above all else, it is a "good billet." I +know a good many English officers who would +rather be stationed where there was a chance of +their taking part in what they call a "show," and +what we would grandly call a "battle," than dwell +at ease on the staff of General Wolseley himself; +but, on the other hand, if I were to give a list of +all the subalterns who have applied to me for +"good billets in America," where they seem to +think fortunes grow on hedges, half the regimental +colors from London to Malta would fade with +shame.</p> + +<p>And Egypt is full of "good billets." It is +true the English have made them good, and +they were not worth much before the English +restored order; but because you have humanely<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span> +stopped a runaway coach from going over a precipice, +that is no reason why you should take +possession of it and fill it both inside and out +with your own friends and relations. That is +what England has done with the Egyptian coach +which Ismail drove to the brink of bankruptcy.</p> + +<p>It is true the Khedive still sits on the box and +holds the reins, but Lord Cromer sits beside him +and holds the whip.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span></p> +<h2>VI</h2> + +<h3>MODERN ATHENS</h3> + + +<p>Perhaps the greatest charm of Athens +and of the islands and mountains +round about it lies in their +power to lure back your belief in +a great many fine people of whose +remarkable deeds you had grown sceptical—of +whose existence even you had begun to doubt. +It is something very serious when one loses faith +in so delightful a young man as Theseus, and it is +worth while sailing under the lee shores of Crete, +where he killed the Minotaur, if for no other purpose +than to have your admiration for him restored. +If we could only be as sure of restoring +by travel all of those other people of whom our +elders ceased telling us when we left the nursery, +I would head an expedition to the north pole, +not to discover open seas and altitudes and +eclipses and such weighty things, but to locate +that nice and kindly old gentleman, and his toy +store and his reindeer, who used to come at +Christmas-time, and who has stopped coming +since I left school. It is certainly worth while<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span> +going all the way to +Greece to see the +Hill of the Nymphs, +and the very cave +where Pan used to +sleep in the hot midday, +and to thrill +over the four crossroads +and the high, +gloomy pass where +the Sphinx lay in +wait for Œdipus +with her cruel claws +and inscrutable +smile.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"><a name="GREEK_SOLDIER_IN_THE_NATIONAL_ALBANIAN_UNIFORM" id="GREEK_SOLDIER_IN_THE_NATIONAL_ALBANIAN_UNIFORM"></a> +<img src="images/illus-179.jpg" width="300" height="464" alt="NATIONAL +(ALBANIAN) UNIFORM" title="NATIONAL +(ALBANIAN) UNIFORM" /> +<span class="caption">GREEK SOLDIER IN THE NATIONAL +(ALBANIAN) UNIFORM</span> +</div> + +<p>The story that +must always strike +every child as most +sad and unsatisfactory +is the one which +tells us how the father +of Theseus killed himself when his son came +sailing back triumphant, and so gallantly engaged +in entertaining the beautiful Athenian maidens +whose lives he had saved that he forgot to hoist +the white sails, and caused his father to throw +himself off the high rocks in despair.</p> + +<p>This used to appeal to me as one of the most +pathetic incidents in history; but as time wore +on my sympathy for the father and indignation +against Theseus passed away, and I forgot about +them both. But when they point out where the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span> +black sails were first seen entering the bay, and +you stand on the rock from which the people +watched for Theseus, and from which his father +threw himself down, you feel just as sorry, and +you rebel just as strongly against that morbid +anticlimax, as you did when you first read the +story in knickerbockers. It seems almost too sad +to be true.</p> + +<p>They had such a delightful way of mixing up +the histories of gods and mortals in those days +that the imaginative person who visits Athens +will find himself gazing as gratefully and as open-eyed +at the rocks in which the Centaur hid as +at those from which Demosthenes delivered his +philippics, just as in London the room at the +Charter House where Colonel Newcome said +"Adsum" for the last time is much more real +than that room in Edinburgh in which Rizzio was +killed, or as the rock from which Monte Cristo +sprang, at the base of the Château d'If, is so +much more actual than the entire field of Waterloo. +It is hard to know just which was real and +which a delightful myth; and yet there has been +so little change in Greece since then that you are +brought nearer to Alcibiades and to Pericles than +you can ever come, in this world at least, to Dr. +Johnson and Dean Swift. You cannot recreate +Grub Street and the debtors' prison, but Eubœa +still "looks on Marathon, and Marathon on the +sea," and, if you are presumptuous, you can +strut up and down the rocky plateau from which +Demosthenes spoke, or take your seat in one of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span> +the marble chairs of the Theatre of Dionysus, +and pretend you are a worthy citizen of Athens +listening to a satire of Sophocles.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 350px;"><a name="GREEK_PEASANT_GIRL" id="GREEK_PEASANT_GIRL"></a> +<img src="images/illus-181.jpg" width="350" height="480" alt="GREEK PEASANT GIRL" title="GREEK PEASANT GIRL" /> +<span class="caption">GREEK PEASANT GIRL</span> +</div> + +<p>The quiet and fresh cleanliness of modern +Athens comes to you after the roar and dirt of +Cairo's narrow lanes and dusty avenues like the +touch of damask table linen and silver after the +greasy oil-cloth of a Mediterranean coasting +steamer. It is quiet, sunny, and well-bred. You +do not fight your way through legions of donkey-boys<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span> +and dragomans, nor are your footsteps +echoed by swarms of guides and beggars. It is a +pretty city, with the look of a water-color. The +houses are a light yellow, and the shutters a +watery green, and the tile roofs a delicate red, and +the sky above a blue seldom shown to ordinary +mortals, but reserved for the eyes of painters and +poets, who have a sort of second sight, and so are +always seeing it and using it for a background. +Athens is a very new city, with new streets and +new public buildings, and a new King and Royal +Palace. It is like a little miniature. There is a +little army, chiefly composed of officers, and a +miniature cabinet, and a beautiful miniature university, +and everybody knows everybody else; and +when the King or Queen drives forth, the guard +turns out and blows a bugle, and so all Athens, +which is always sitting at the cafés around the +square of the palace, nods its head and says, +"The Queen is going for a drive," or, "Her +Majesty has returned early to-day," and then +continues to clank its sword and to twirl its mustache +and to sip its coffee. Modern Athens +tends towards the Frank in dress and habit of +thought. The men have adopted his costume, +and the women wear little flat curls like the +French ladies in <i>Le Figaro</i>, and peaked bonnets +and high heels.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="THE_UNIVERSITY_OF_ATHENS" id="THE_UNIVERSITY_OF_ATHENS"></a> +<img src="images/illus-183.jpg" width="400" height="135" alt="THE UNIVERSITY OF ATHENS" title="THE UNIVERSITY OF ATHENS" /> +<span class="caption">THE UNIVERSITY OF ATHENS</span> +</div> + +<p>The national costume of the Greeks is taken +from the Albanians, but it is much more honored +in the breach than in the observance. Like all +national costumes, it is only worn, except for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> +political effect and before a camera, by the lower +classes, and also by three regiments of the army. +You see it in the streets, but it is not so universally +popular as one would suppose from the pictures +of Athens in the illustrated papers and by +the photographs in the shop-windows. It is a +most remarkable costume, and as widely different +from the flowing robe and short skirt of the early +Greeks as men in accordion petticoats and heavy +white tights and a Zouave jacket must evidently +be. In the country it still obtains, and it is the +farmers and peasants and their wives and the soldiers +who supply the picturesque element of dress +to the streets of the city.</p> + +<p>It is an inscrutable problem why, with all +the national costumes in the world to choose +and pick from, the world should have decided +upon the dress of the Frank, that is, of the foreigner—ourselves. +In Spain the peasants have +discarded their knickerbockers and short jackets, +even in the country, for the long trousers and +ill-fitting ready-made clothing of a French "sweater," +and the Moors cover their robes with overcoats +from Manchester, and the Arabs and Chinese +and Swiss and Turks are giving up the picturesque +garments that are comfortable and becoming +to them, and look exceedingly ugly and uncomfortable +in our own modern garb, which is +the ugliest and most uncomfortable of national +costumes yet devised by men or tailors. If you +judge by the uniforms of the army of officers and +by the dress of the women of Athens, you would<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span> +think you were in a French city and among +French people. It seems a pity that this should +be so; that Athens, of all cities, should be built of +Italian villas, inhabited by +people who ape the French, +and governed by a King +from Denmark; still, they +did not make a success of +it when they tried, fifty years +ago, to govern +themselves. It is +perhaps hardly +fair to expect the +Greeks, or even +the Athenians, +to live up to the +great rock and +the monuments +that crown it, +and the people +of Greece are no +doubt as fine as +those of other little kingdoms or principalities +scattered about Europe; but then the other kingdoms +and principalities have not the history of +early Greece to call their own nor the Acropolis +to look up to.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"><a name="ALBANIAN_PEASANT_WOMAN" id="ALBANIAN_PEASANT_WOMAN"></a> +<img src="images/illus-186.jpg" width="250" height="321" alt="ALBANIAN PEASANT WOMAN" title="ALBANIAN PEASANT WOMAN" /> +<span class="caption">ALBANIAN PEASANT WOMAN</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 250px;"><a name="ALBANIAN_PEASANT_WOMAN2" id="ALBANIAN_PEASANT_WOMAN2"></a> +<img src="images/illus-187.jpg" width="250" height="313" alt="ALBANIAN PEASANT WOMAN" title="ALBANIAN PEASANT WOMAN" /> +<span class="caption">ALBANIAN PEASANT WOMAN</span> +</div> + +<p>The rock of the Acropolis is hardly more a +part of modern Greece than the Rock of Gibraltar +is a part of Spain. Geographically it is, but it +belongs as much to the visitor as to the native, so +little inspiration has he apparently drawn from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span> +it, and so little has it served to bring out in him +to-day those qualities that made demigods of his +ancestors. I think I represent the average intelligence, +and yet at this moment I cannot think of +any Greek within the last hundred years who has +gained world-wide renown, either as a sculptor, an +artist, a soldier, a writer of comedies and satires, +a statesman, nor even as an archæologist; the +very historians of Greece and the exponents of +its secrets and the most distinguished of its excavators +are of other countries. +They have many heroes of their +own; you see their portraits or +their photographs in every shop-window; +but they are not as familiar +to you as the faces and +histories of those +other Greeks who +sighed because +there were no +more worlds, and +whose fame has +lasted long after +the other worlds +were discovered. +One would think +that some young +Greek, on arising +in the morning +and seeing the Acropolis against the sky, would +say to himself, "To-day I shall do something +worthy of that." And were he to say that often<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span> +enough, and try to live up to the fortress and the +temple above him, he might help to make Greece +in this known world what she was in the smaller +world of her day of glory. It is not because the +world has grown and given +her more with which to +compete that she has fallen +into lesser and lesser +significance; for though +the world has increased +in latitude and longitude, +it has not yet carved another +Hermes like that +of Praxiteles; and though +it has added three continents +since his day, it has +never equalled in marbles +the fluttering draperies +of the Flying Victory, +nor the carvings over the +doorway of the Erechtheum.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 200px;"><a name="GREEK_PEASANT" id="GREEK_PEASANT"></a> +<img src="images/illus-188.jpg" width="200" height="334" alt="GREEK PEASANT" title="GREEK PEASANT" /> +<span class="caption">GREEK PEASANT</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 250px;"><a name="ALBANIAN_PEASANT_IN_THE_STREETS_OF_ATHENS" id="ALBANIAN_PEASANT_IN_THE_STREETS_OF_ATHENS"></a> +<img src="images/illus-189.jpg" width="250" height="323" alt="ALBANIAN PEASANT" title="ALBANIAN PEASANT" /> +<span class="caption">ALBANIAN PEASANT IN THE STREETS OF ATHENS</span> +</div> + +<p>But, as far as in him +lies, the Greek has endeavored +to copy the traditions +of his ancestors. +He holds Olympic games in the ancient arena +which King George has had excavated, and if +victorious receives a wreath of wild olives from +the hands of the King; and he builds the new +market where the old market stood, and the new +military hospital as near as is possible to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span> +hospital of Æsculapius. But he cannot restore +to the market-place that very human citizen who +cast in his shell against Aristides because he +was aweary of hearing him called the Just; nor +can either his games or his hospital bring back +the perfect figure and health of the men whose +figures and profiles have set the model for all +time. He has, however, retained the Greek language, +which is very creditable to him, as it is a +language one learns only after much difficulty, +and then forgets at once. He even goes so far<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> +as to put up the names of the streets in Greek, +which strikes the bewildered tourist trying to find +his way back to his hotel as a trifle pedantic, and +he prints his daily newspaper in this same tongue. +This is, perhaps, going a little too far, as it leaves +you in some doubt as to whether you have been +reading of the Panama scandal or a reprint on the +battle of Marathon.</p> + +<p>Baron Sina, a Greek banker, has shown the most +public-spirited and patriotic generosity, and taste +as well, in erecting the buildings of the university +at his own expense and giving them to the city. +They are reproductions in many ways of different +parts of the temples of the Acropolis in miniature. +The Polytechnic is almost an exact copy +of the front of the Parthenon. There is a picture +of it from a photograph given in this article, but +it can supply no idea of the beauty of the modern +reproduction of this temple. The lines and measurements +are the same in degree; and the Polytechnic, +besides, is colored and gilded as was the +original Parthenon, and for the first time makes +you understand how brilliant reds and beautiful +blues and gold and black on marble can be combined +with the marble's purity and help rather +than cheapen it. It is a lesson in loveliness, and +is as wonderful and brilliantly beautiful a building +as the marble and gold monument to the Prince +Consort in Hyde Park is vulgar and atrocious. +If this copy in miniature, this working model of +the Parthenon, moves one as it does, it can be +understood how great must be the strength and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span> +purity of the Parthenon, even in ruins, with its +gilt washed to a dull brown and its colors and +bass-reliefs stripped from its pediment. I shall +certainly not attempt to describe it.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 600px;"><a name="POLYTECHNIC_SCHOOL" id="POLYTECHNIC_SCHOOL"></a> +<img src="images/illus-191.jpg" width="600" height="208" alt="POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL" title="POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL" /> +<span class="caption">POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL</span> +</div> + +<p>There are very few tourists who visit Athens in +proportion to those who visit far less momentous +ruins; thousands go to Rome and see the Colosseum, +to Egypt and view the storied walls of the +great rude temples along the Nile, and as many +more make the tour of the English cathedral +towns; but in Athens it is almost difficult to find +a guide. There are not more than a half-dozen, +I am sure, in the whole city, and the Acropolis is +yours if you wish, and you are often as much +alone as though you had been the first to climb +its sides. I do not mean by this that it is neglected, +or that relic-hunters may chip at it or +carry away pieces of its handiwork, or broken bits +of the Turkish shells that have shattered it, but +the guards are unobtrusive, and you are free to +wander in and out in this forest of marble and +fallen trunks of columns as though you were the +ghost of some Athenian citizen revisiting the +scenes of his former life.</p> + +<p>There is no question that half of the pleasure +you receive in wandering over the top of this +great wind-blown rock, with the surrounding +snow-touched mountains on a level with your +eye, and the great temples rearing above you or +lying broken at your feet, magnificent even there, +is due to your seeing them alone, to the fact that +no guide's parrot-like volubility harasses you, no<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span> +guard's scornful gloom chills your enthusiasm. +The great bay of turquoise-blue and the green +fields and the bunches of cactus and groves of +dark olive-trees below are unspoiled +by modern innovations, +and the hills are still +dotted with sheep and shepherds, +as they were in the +days of Sappho.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"><a name="AN_OLD_ATHENIAN_OF_THE_PRESENT_DAY" id="AN_OLD_ATHENIAN_OF_THE_PRESENT_DAY"></a> +<img src="images/illus-194.jpg" width="200" height="454" alt="AN OLD ATHENIAN" title="AN OLD ATHENIAN" /> +<span class="caption">AN OLD ATHENIAN OF +THE PRESENT DAY</span> +</div> + +<p>Overhead is the blue sky, +with the ivory columns between, +far below you is the +steep naked rock, or, on the +other hand, the two semicircles +of marble seats cushioned +with velvet moss and carpeted +with daisies and violets, and +beyond the limits of the yellow +town and its red roofs and +dark green gardens stretches +the green plain until it touches +the sea, or is blocked by +Mount Hymettus or Mount +Pentelicus, beyond which latter +lies the field of Marathon. +Sitting on the edge of the rock, you can imagine +the actors strutting out into the theatre below, +and the acquiescent chorus chanting its surprise +or horror, and almost see the bent shoulders and +heads of the people filling the half-circle and +leaning forward to catch each word of the play +as it comes to them through the actors' masks.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 200px;"><a name="A_GREEK_SHEPHERD" id="A_GREEK_SHEPHERD"></a> +<img src="images/illus-195.jpg" width="200" height="365" alt="A GREEK SHEPHERD" title="A GREEK SHEPHERD" /> +<span class="caption">A GREEK SHEPHERD</span> +</div> + +<p>Sounds, no matter how far afield, drift to you +drowsily, like the voice of one reading aloud on +a summer's day—the bleating of the sheep in the +valley where Plato argued, and the jangling of a +goat's bell, or the laughter of children flying kites +on the Pnyx, a quarter of a mile away. And beyond +the reach of sound is the Ægean Sea weltering +in the sun, with little +three-cornered sails, like tops, +or a great vessel drawing a +chalk-line after it through the +still surface of the water. All +things are possible at such +a time in this place. You +can almost hear the bees on +Mount Hymettus, and you +would receive the advance of +a Centaur as calmly as Alice +noted the approach of the +White Rabbit. You believe +in nymphs and satyrs. They +have their homes there in +those caves, and in the thick +green, almost black, woods at +the base of the Parnes range, +and you love the bravery of +St. Paul, who dared to doubt +such things when he stood on +the rock at your feet and told +the men of Athens that they were in many things +too superstitious. It is something to have seen +the ribs cut in the rock on the top of the Acropolis<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span> +which kept the wheels of the chariots from slipping +when the Panathenaic procession moved along the +Via Sacra to the Eleusinian mysteries, to have +looked upon the caryatides of the Erechtheum, +and to have wanted back as a lost part of your own +self, for the time being, the Elgin marbles. When +Napoleon stole the Venus of Milo he placed her in +the Louvre, where every one will see her sooner or +later; for if he is good he goes to Paris when he +dies, and if he is bad he is sure to go there in his +lifetime. But <i>who</i> has ever been to the British +Museum? One would as soon think of visiting +Pentonville prison. And how do the marbles +look under the soot-stained windows or the gray +of London fog? Like the few Lord Elgin did +not want, and that stand out like ivory in their +proper height against the soft sky that knows +and loves them? When the people of Great +Britain have returned the Elgin marbles to +Greece, and the Rock of Gibraltar to Spain, and +the Koh-i-noor diamond to India, and Egypt to +the Egyptians, they will be a proud and haughty +people, and will be able to hold their heads as +high as any one.</p> + +<p>One cannot help feeling that the King of +Greece has a much greater responsibility than he +knows. Other monarchs must look after their +boundaries; he must not only look after his +boundaries, but his sky-line. Another such affront +to good taste as the observatory on the +Hill of the Nymphs, and the sky-line of Athens +will be unrecognizable. And the tall chimneys<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span> +at the Piræus are not half as attractive to the +view as the spars of the ships. It is much better +not to have manufactories that must have chimneys +than to spoil a view which no other kingdom +can equal. Any king can put up a chimney; +very few are given the care of an Acropolis; and +if the King and Queen of Greece wish to be remembered +as kindly by the rest of the world as +they are loved dearly by their adopted people, +they will guard the treasure put in their keeping, +and sweep observatories from sacred hills, and +continue to limit the guides on the Acropolis, +and so win the gratitude of a civilized world.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span></p> +<h2>VII</h2> + +<h3>CONSTANTINOPLE</h3> + + +<p>A little Italian steamer drew cautiously +away from the Piræus when +the waters of the bay were quite +black and the quays looked like a +row of foot-lights in front of the +dark curtain of the night. She grazed the anchor +chains of H. M. S. the <i>Colossus</i>, where that ship of +war's broad white deck lay level with the water, +as heavy and solid as a stone pier. She seemed +to rise like an island of iron from the very bottom +of the bay. Her sailors, as broad and heavy and +clean as the decks, raised their heads from their +pipes as we passed under the glare of the man-of-war's +electric lights, and a bugle call came faintly +from somewhere up in the bow. It sounded as +though it were a quarter of a mile away. Our +lower deck was packed with Greeks and Albanians +and Turks, lying as closely together on the hard +planks as cartridges in the front of a Circassian's +overcoat. They were very dirty and very handsome, +in rakish little black silk pill-box caps, with +red and gold tops, and the initials "H. I." worked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span> +in the embroidery; their canvas breeches were as +baggy and patched and muddy as those of a football-player, +and their sleeveless jackets and double +waistcoats of red and gold made them look like a +uniformed soldiery that had seen very hard service. +Priests of the Greek Church, with long hair +and black formless robes, and hats like stovepipes +with the brim around the upper end, paraded +the narrow confines of the second cabin, +and German tourists with red guide-books, and +the Italian ship's officers with a great many medals +and very bad manners, stamped up and down +the main-deck and named the shadowy islands +that rose from the sea and dropped out of sight +again as we steamed past them.</p> + +<p>In the morning the islands had disappeared altogether, +and we were between high banks—higher +than, but not so steep as the Palisades; rows of +little scrubby trees ran along their fronts in lateral +lines, and at their base mud forts with mud barracks +and thatched roofs pointed little cannon at +us from every jutting rock. We were so near that +one could have hit the face of the high hills with +a stone. These were the Dardanelles, the banks +that nature has set between the Sea of Marmora +and the Mediterranean to protect Constantinople +from Mediterranean squadrons. We pass between +these banks for hours, or between the high bank +of Roumelia on one side and the low hilly country +of Asia where Troy once stood on the other, +until, at sunset, we are halted in the narrowest +strait of the Dardanelles, between the Castle of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span> +Asia and the Castle of Europe, "the Lock of the +Sea"—that sea of which Gibraltar is the key. +That night we cross through the Sea of Marmora, +and by sunrise are at Constantinople.</p> + +<p>Constantinople is such a long word, and so few +of the people you know have visited it in comparison +with those who have wintered at Cairo or +at Rome, or who have spent a season at Vienna, +or taken music-lessons in Berlin, that you approach +it with a mind prepared for surprises and +with the hope of the unexpected. I had expected +that the heart of the Ottoman Empire would +be outwardly a brilliant and flashing city of gilded +domes and minarets, a cluster of colored house +fronts rising from the dancing waters of the Bosporus, +and with the banks lined with great white +palaces among gardens of green trees. There are +more gilded domes in New York city and in Boston +than in Constantinople. In New York there +are three, and in Boston there is the State House, +which looks very fine indeed from the new bridge +across the Charles when the river is blocked with +gray ice, and a setting sun is throwing a light on +the big yellow globe. But Constantinople is all +white and gray; the palaces that line the Bosporus +are of a brilliant white stucco, and the +mosques like monster turtles, which give the city +its chief distinction, are a dull white. In the +Turkish quarter the houses are more sombre still, +of a peculiar black wood, and built like the old +log forts in which our great-great-grandfathers +took refuge from the Indians—square buildings<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span> +with an overhanging story from which those inside +could fire down upon the enemy below. The +jutting balcony on the Turkish houses is for the +less serious purpose of allowing the harem to +look down upon the passers-by.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 600px;"><a name="GENERAL_VIEW_OF_CONSTANTINOPLE" id="GENERAL_VIEW_OF_CONSTANTINOPLE"></a> +<img src="images/illus-201.jpg" width="600" height="242" alt="GENERAL VIEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE" title="GENERAL VIEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE" /> +<span class="caption">GENERAL VIEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE</span> +</div> + +<p>Constantinople is a fair-weather city, and needs +the sun and the blue sky and the life of the waters +about it, which give to the city its real individuality. +It misses in winter the pleasure-yachts of +the summer months, the white uniforms of the +thousands of boatmen, and the brighter dressing +of the awnings and flags of the ships and steamers. +But the waters about Constantinople are its +best part, and are fuller and busier and brighter +than either those around the Battery or those below +the Thames Embankment, and by standing +on its wide wooden bridge, over which more +people pass in a day than over any other (save +London Bridge) in the world, one can see a procession +of all the nations of the East.</p> + +<p>Constantinople is a much more primitive city +than one would expect the largest of all Eastern +cities to be. It impresses you as a city without +any municipal control whatsoever, and you come +upon a building with the stamp of the municipal +palace upon it with as much surprise as you would +feel in finding an underwriter's office at the north +pole. In many ways it is the most primitive city +that I have ever been in. In all that pertains to +the Sultan, to the religion of the people, of which +he is the head, and to the army, the recognition +due them is rigidly and impressively observed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span> +But in what regards the local life of the people +there seems to be absolutely no interest and no +responsibility. There is no such absolute power +in Europe, not excepting that of the Czar or of the +young Emperor, as is that exercised by the Sultan; +and the mosques of the faithful are guarded +and decorated and held more highly in reverence +than are many churches of a more civilized people; +and the army impresses you as one you +would much prefer to lead than one from which +you would elect to run away. But the comfort +of the inhabitants of Constantinople is little +considered. There is nothing that one can see +of what we call public spirit, unless building a +mosque and calling it after yourself, in a city already +supplied with the most magnificent of such +temples, can be called public-spirited. Of course +one does not go to Constantinople to see electric +lights and asphalt pavements, nor to gather statistics +on the poor-rate, but it is interesting to find +people so nearly in touch with the world in many +things, and so far away from it in others. As long +as I do not have to live in Constantinople, I find +its lack of municipal spirit quite as interesting a +feature of the city as its mosques.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ONE_OF_THE_SULTANS_PALACES_ON_THE_BOSPORUS" id="ONE_OF_THE_SULTANS_PALACES_ON_THE_BOSPORUS"></a> +<img src="images/illus-205.jpg" width="600" height="231" alt="ONE OF THE SULTAN'S PALACES ON THE BOSPORUS" title="ONE OF THE SULTAN'S PALACES ON THE BOSPORUS" /> +<span class="caption">ONE OF THE SULTAN'S PALACES ON THE BOSPORUS</span> +</div> + +<p>Constantinople, for example, is a city with as +large a population as has Berlin or Vienna, and its +fire department is what you see in the illustration +accompanying this chapter. They are very handsome +men, as you can note for yourself, and very +smart-looking, but when they go to a fire they +make a bargain with the owner of the building<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span> +before they attempt to save his property. The +great fire-tower in this capital of the Ottoman +Empire is in Galata, and from it watchmen survey +the city with glasses, and at the first sight of +a blazing roof one of them runs down the tower +and races through the uneven streets, calling out +the fact that a house is burning, and where that +house may be. Each watchman he meets takes +up the cry, and continues calling out that the +house is burning, even though the house is three +miles away, until it burns down or is built up +again, or the watchman is retired for long service +and pensioned. Besides these amateur firemen +there are two real fire companies, but they can +do little in a city of 880,000 people.</p> + +<p>The police who guard Constantinople at night +are an equally primitive body of men. They +carry a heavy club, about five feet long and as +thick as a man's wrist, and with this they beat +the stones in the streets to assure people that +they are attending strictly to their work, and are +not sleeping in doorways. The result of this is +that no one can get to sleep, and all evil-minded +persons can tell exactly where the night-watchman +is, and so keep out of his way. The watchman +under my window seemed to act on the idea +of the gentleman who, on taking his first trip on +a sleeping-car, declared that if he couldn't sleep +no one else should, and acted accordingly.</p> + +<p>There is nothing, so far as I can see, in which +the Oriental delights as much as he does in making +a noise. It is most curious to find a whole people<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span> +without nerves, who cannot talk without shouting, +and who cannot shout without giving you the +idea that they are in great pain, and that unless +relief comes promptly they will die, and that it will +be your fault. Those of them who sell bread or +fruits or fish or beads, or whatever it may be, in +the streets, bellow rather than shout, or cry in +sharp, agonizing shrieks, high and nasal and fierce. +They apparently never "move on." They always +meet under your window or at the corners of a +street, and there all shout at once, and no one +pays the least attention to them. They might +be lamp-posts or minarets, for all the notice they +receive. I can imagine no fate or torture so +awful as to be ill in Constantinople and to have +to lie helpless and listen to the street cries, to the +tin horns of the men who run ahead of the streetcars—which +incidentally gives you an idea of the +speed of these cars—and to the snarling and +barking of the thousands of street dogs.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 600px;"><a name="A_FIRE_COMPANY_OF_CONSTANTINOPLE" id="A_FIRE_COMPANY_OF_CONSTANTINOPLE"></a> +<img src="images/illus-209.jpg" width="600" height="391" alt="A FIRE COMPANY OF CONSTANTINOPLE" title="A FIRE COMPANY OF CONSTANTINOPLE" /> +<span class="caption">A FIRE COMPANY OF CONSTANTINOPLE</span> +</div> + +<p>There are three or four intensely interesting +ceremonies and many show-places in Constantinople +which are unlike anything of the same sort +in any other city. Apart from these and the +bazars, which are very wonderful, there is nothing +in the city itself which makes even the Oriental +seek it in preference to his own mountains or +plains or native village. Constantinople, so far +as its population is to be considered, is standing +still. It impresses you as stagnant before your +statistical friend or the oldest member of the +diplomatic corps or the oldest inhabitant tells +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span> +the Frank's finding a long residence in Cairo possible, +or in pretty little Athens, where the boulevards +and the classics are so strangely jumbled, +but one cannot understand a man's settling down +in Constantinople. Where there are no women +there can be no court, and the few rich Greek +residents and still fewer of the pashas and the +diplomats make the society of the city. Even +these last find it far from gay, for it so happens +that the ambassadors are all either bachelors, +widowers, or the husbands of invalid wives, and +the result is a society which depends largely on a +very smart club for its amusement. In the wintertime, +when the snow and rain sweep over the +three hills, and the solitary street of Galata is a +foot deep in slush and mud, and the china stoves +radiate a candle-like heat in a room built to let in +all the air possible, I can imagine few less desirable +places than the capital of the Ottoman Empire. +This is in the winter only; as I have said, +it is a fair-weather city, and I did not see it at +its best.</p> + +<p>There are three things to which one is taken +in Constantinople—the mosque of St. Sophia, +the treasures of the Sultan, and the Sultan going +to pray in his own private mosque. The Sultan's +own mosque is situated conveniently near his +palace, not more than a few hundred feet distant. +Once every Friday he rides this distance, and +once a year journeys as far as the mosque of St. +Sophia. With these outings he is content, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span> +on no other occasions does he show himself to +his people or leave his palace. This is what it is +to be a sovereign of many countries in Europe, +Asia, and Africa, the head of the Mussulman religion; +and the ruler of nations and lands conquered +by your ancestors, of which you see less +than a donkey-boy in Cairo or the owner of a +caïque on the Bosporus. We used to sing in +college,</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<span class="i0">"The Sultan better pleases me;</span> +<span class="i0">His life is full of jollity."</span> +</div> + +<p>The jollity of a life which the possessor believes +to be threatened by assassination in every form +and at any moment is of a somewhat ghastly +nature.</p> + +<p>You obtain tickets for the Selamlik, as the ceremony +of the Sultan's visit to his mosque is called, +and you are requested, as you are supposed to be +the guest of the Sultan on these occasions, not +to bring opera-glasses. But it is nevertheless +strongly suggestive of a theatrical performance. +The mosque is on one side of a wide street; the +houses in which the spectators sit, like the audience +in a grand-stand, are on the other. One +end of the street is blocked by a great square, +and the other by the gateway of the palace from +which the Sultan comes. The street is not more +than a hundred yards in length. A band of music +enters this square first and plays the overture to +the ceremony. The musicians are mounted on +horseback and followed by a double line of cavalrymen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span> +on white horses, and each carrying a lance +at rest with a red pennant. There are thousands +of these; they stretch out like telegraph poles on +the prairie to an interminable length, their scarlet +pennants flapping and rustling in the sharp east +wind like a forest of autumn leaves. You begin +to suspect that they are going around the square +and returning again many times, as the supers do +in "Ours." Then the horses turn black and the +overcoats of the men change from gray to blue, +and more scarlet pennants stretch like an arch of +bunting along the street leading to the palace, +until they have all filed into the open square and +halt there stirrup to stirrup, a moving mass of +four thousand restless horses and four thousand +scarlet flags. And then more bands and drums +and bugle-calls come from every point of the +city, and regiment after regiment swarms up the +hill on which the palace rests, the tune of one +band of music breaking in on the tune of the +next, as do those of the political processions at +home, until every approach to the gate of the +palace is blocked from curb to curb with armed +men, and you look out and down upon the points +of five thousand bayonets crushed into a space +not one-fifth as large as Madison Square. There +is no populace to see this spectacle, only those of +the faithful who stop on their way to Mecca to +catch this glimpse of the head of their religion, +and a few women who have brought petitions to +present to him and who are allowed within the +lines of soldiers.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 400px;"><a name="STREET_DOGS_OF_CONSTANTINOPLE" id="STREET_DOGS_OF_CONSTANTINOPLE"></a> +<img src="images/illus-215.jpg" width="400" height="547" alt="STREET DOGS" title="STREET DOGS" /> +<span class="caption">STREET DOGS OF CONSTANTINOPLE</span> +</div> + +<p>But pashas and beys and other high dignitaries +are arriving every moment in full regalia, for this +is like a drawing-room at Buckingham Palace, or +a levee at St. James's, and every one must leave +all other matters to attend it. Twenty men with +twenty carts rush out suddenly from the curtain +of Zouaves and sailors, and scatter soft gravel on +the fifty yards of roadway over which the Sultan +intends to drive. They remind you of the men +in the circus who spread sawdust over the ring +after the horses' hoofs have torn it. And then, +high above the heads of the nine thousand soldiers +and the few thousand more dignitaries, diplomats, +and spectators, a priest in a green turban +calls aloud from the top of the minaret. It is +a very beautiful cry or call, in a strong, sweet tenor +voice, inexpressibly weird and sad and impressive. +It is answered by a bugle call given slowly and +clearly like a man speaking, and at a certain note +the entire nine thousand soldiers salute. It is +done with a precision and shock so admirable that +you would think, except for the volume of the +noise, that but one man had moved his piece. +The voice of the priest rises again, and is answered +by triumphant strains of brass, and the gates of +the palace open, and a glittering procession of +officers and princes and pashas moves down the +broad street, encircling a carriage drawn by two +horses and driven by servants in gold. At the +sight of this the soldiers cry "Long live the Sultan" +three times. It is like the roar of a salute +of cannon, and has all the feeling of a cheer. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span> +Sultan sits in the back of the open carriage, a +slight, tired-looking man, with a pale face and +black beard. He is dressed in a fur overcoat +and fez. As he passes, the men of his army—and +they <i>are</i> men—salute him, and the veiled +women stand on tiptoe behind them and stretch +out their petitions, and the pashas and chamberlains +and cabinet officers bend their bodies and +touch the hand to the heart, lip, and forehead, +and drop it again to the knee. The pilgrims to +Mecca fall prostrate on their faces, and the Sultan +bows his head and touches his hand to his +fez. Opposite him sits Osman Pasha, the hero +of the last war, and one of the greatest generals +of the world, his shoulders squared, his +heart covered with stars, and his keen, observant +eyes wandering from the pale face of his sovereign +to the browned, hardy-looking countenances of +his men.</p> + +<p>The Sultan remains a half-hour in the mosque, +and on his return drives himself back to the palace +in an open landau. This was the first time +I had seen the Turkish soldier in bulk, and he +impressed me more than did any other soldier I +had seen along the shores of the Mediterranean. +I had seen the British troops repulse an imaginary +attack upon the rock of Gibraltar, and half of the +Army of Occupation in Egypt dislodge an imaginary +enemy from the sand hills around Cairo, +and I had seen French and Italian and Greek soldiers +in lesser proportion and in lesser activity. +But to me none of these had the build or the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span> +bearing or the ready if rough look of these Turks. +The French Zouaves of Algiers came next to +them to my mind, and it may be that the similarity +of the uniform would explain that; but as I +heard the Sultan's troops that morning marching +up the hills to their outlandish music, and looked +into eyes that had never been shaded from the +sun, and at the spring and swing of legs that had +never worn civilized trousers, I recalled several +notable battles of past history, and the more recent +lines of Mr. Rudyard Kipling where he pays +his compliments to the Russian on the frontier:</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<span class="i0">"I'm sorry for Mr. Bluebeard,</span> +<span class="i0">I'd be sorry to cause him pain;</span> +<span class="i0">But a hell of a spree</span> +<span class="i0">There is sure to be</span> +<span class="i0">When he comes back again."</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 600px;"><br /><br /><a name="GUARD_OF_CAVALRY_PRECEDING_THE_SULTAN_TO_THE_MOSQUE" id="GUARD_OF_CAVALRY_PRECEDING_THE_SULTAN_TO_THE_MOSQUE"></a> +<img src="images/illus-219.jpg" width="600" height="355" alt="GUARD OF CAVALRY PRECEDING THE SULTAN TO THE MOSQUE" title="GUARD OF CAVALRY PRECEDING THE SULTAN TO THE MOSQUE" /> +<span class="caption">GUARD OF CAVALRY PRECEDING THE SULTAN TO THE MOSQUE</span> +</div> + +<p>The Oriental is one of those people who do +things by halves. He has a fine army, but the +bulk of his navy has not left the Golden Horn +for many years, and it is doubtful if it could leave +it; his palace walls are of mosaic and wonderfully +painted tiles, and the roofs of rusty tin; his sons +are given the questionable but expensive education +of Paris, and his daughters are not allowed +to walk abroad unless guarded by servants, and +with the knowledge that every policeman spies +upon them, knowing that, could he detect them +in an indiscretion, he would be rewarded and gain +promotion. Consequently it does not surprise<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span> +you when you find the Sultan's treasures heaped +together under dirty glass cases, and treated with +the indifference a child pays to its last year's toys.</p> + +<p>The crown-jewels and regalia kept at the Tower, +itself under iron bars and guarded by Beefeaters, +are not half as impressive as are the jewels +of the Sultan, which lie covered with dust under +a glass show-case, and guarded by a few gloomy-looking +effendis in frock-coats. All the presents +from other monarchs and all the gifts of lesser +notables who have sought some Sultan's favor, +all the arms and trophies of generations of wars, +are piled together in this treasury with less care +than one would give to a rack of pipes. It is a +very remarkable exhibition, and it is magnificent +in its Oriental disregard for wealth through long +association with it. Bronze busts of emperors, +jewelled swords, imperial orders, music-boxes, +gun-cases, weapons of gold instead of steel, precious +stones, and silver dressing-cases are all +heaped together on dusty shelves, without order +and classification and without care. You can see +here handfuls of uncut precious stones on china +plates, or dozens of gold and silver pistols thrown +in a corner like kindling-wood. And the most +remarkable exhibition of all is the magnificent +robes of those Sultans who are dead, with the +jewels and jewelled swords and belts and insignia +worn by them, placed on dummies in a glass case, +as though they were a row of stuffed birds or +specimens of rock. In the turbans of one of +these figures there are pearls as large as a woman's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span> +thumb, and emeralds and rubies as large as +eggs, and ropes of diamonds. This sounds like a +story from the <i>Arabian Nights</i>; but then these +are the heroes of the <i>Arabian Nights</i>—the Sultans +who owned the whole northern coast of +Africa and Asia, and who spent on display and +ornament what we put into education and railroads.</p> + +<p>The present Sultan, Abd-ul-Hammed II., so +far differs from those who have preceded him +that he as well as ourselves spends money on education +and railroads and all that they imply. +As the head of a religion and of an empire he +may not cheapen himself by being seen too often +by his people, but his interests spread beyond +even the great extent of his own boundaries, and +his money is given to sufferers as far apart in all +but misfortune as the Johnstown refugees and +the victims of the earthquakes of Zante and +Corfu. And his protection is extended to the +American missionaries who enter his country to +preach a religion to which he is opposed. While +I was in Constantinople he showed the variety +of his interests in the outside world by making +two presents. To the Czar of Russia he gave a +book of photographs of the vessels in his navy, +and in contrast to this grimly humorous recognition +of Russia's ambitions he presented to our +government an emblem in gold and diamonds, +commemorating in its design and inscription the +discovering of this country, worth, intrinsically, +many thousands of dollars. He was, I believe,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span> +the only sovereign who showed a personal interest +in our national celebration, and his gift was +properly one of the government's most conspicuous +exhibits at the Columbian Fair.</p> + +<p>The Mosque of St. Sophia is one of the first +things you are taken to see in Constantinople. +It is to the Mussulman what St. Peter's is to the +good Catholic, although Justinian built it, and +the cross still shows in many parts of the great +building. Three times during the year this +mosque is illuminated within and without, and +every good Mussulman attends there to worship.</p> + +<p>There is something very fine about the religion +of Mohammed—you do not have to know much +about it to appreciate the faith of its followers, +whether you know what it is they believe or not. +In their outward observance, at least, of the rules +laid down for them in the Koran, they show a sincerity +which teaches a great lesson. You can see +them at any hour of the day or in any place going +through their devotions. A soldier will kneel +down in a band stand, where a moment before he +has been playing for the regiment, and say his +prayers before two thousand spectators; and I +have had some difficulty in getting my trunks on +the Orient Express, because the porters were at +another end of a crowded, noisy platform bowing +towards the East. Once a year they fast for a +month, the season of Ramazan, and as I was in +Eastern countries during that month I know that +they fast rigidly. Ramazan begins in Egypt +when the new moon appears in a certain well near<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span> +Cairo. Two men watch this well, and when they +see the reflection of the new moon on its surface +they run into Cairo with the news, and Ramazan +begins. There is nothing which so well illustrates +the unchangeableness of the East and its customs +as the sight of these men running through the +streets of Cairo, with its dog-carts and electric +lights, its calendars and almanacs, to tell that the +moon has again reached that point that it had +reached for many hundreds of years before, when +all the faithful must fast and pray.</p> + +<div class="figcenter bord" style="width: 550px;"><a name="EXTERIOR_OF_THE_MOSQUE_OF_ST._SOPHIA" id="EXTERIOR_OF_THE_MOSQUE_OF_ST._SOPHIA"></a> +<img src="images/illus-225.jpg" width="550" height="361" alt="EXTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE" title="EXTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE" /> +<span class="caption">EXTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE OF ST. SOPHIA</span> +</div> + +<p>On one of the last days of Ramazan I went to +the door of St. Sophia, and was led up a winding +staircase in one of its minarets—a minaret-tower +so broad and high that the staircase within it has +no steps, but is paved smoothly like a street. It +seemed as though we had been climbing nearly +ten minutes before we stepped out into a great +gallery, and looked down upon thousands of turbaned +figures bowing and kneeling and rising +again in long rows like infantry in close order. +Between these worshippers and ourselves were +fifty circles of floating tapers swinging from chains, +and hanging like a smoky curtain of fire between +us and the figures below. The voice of the priest +rose in a high, uncanny cry, and the sound of the +thousands of men falling forward on their faces +and arms was like the rumble of the waves +breaking on the shore. Outside, the tops of minarets +were circled with lights and lamps strung +on long ropes, with the ends flying free, and +swinging to and fro in the night wind like necklaces<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span> +of stars. This was the most beautiful of all +the sights of Constantinople; and as a matter of +opinion, and not of fact, I think the best part of +Constantinople is that part of it that is in the air.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p>Before ending this last chapter, I should like +to make two suggestions to the reader who has +not yet visited the Mediterranean and who thinks +of doing so. Let him not be deterred, in the first +place, by any idea of the difficulties of the journey, +for he can go from Gibraltar along the entire +northern coast of Africa and into Greece and +Italy with as little trouble and with as much comfort +as it is possible for him to make the journey +from New York to Chicago. And in the second +place, should he go in the winter or spring, let +him not be misled by "Italian skies," or "the +blue Mediterranean," or "the dancing waters of +the Bosporus," into imagining that he is going +to be any warmer on the northern coast of Africa +than he is in New York. I wore exactly the same +clothes in Italy that I wore the day I left the +North River blocked with ice, and I watched a +snow-storm falling on "the dancing waters of the +Bosporus". There are some warm days, of course, +but it is well to follow that good old-fashioned rule +in any part of the world, that it is cold in winter +and warm in summer, and people who spend their +lives in trying to dodge this fact might as well +try running away from death and the postal system.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span> +To any one who has but a little time and +a little money to spend on a holiday, I would +suggest going to Gibraltar, and from there to +Spain and Morocco. This is the only place, perhaps, +in the world where three so widely different +people and three such picturesque people as the +Moor, the British soldier, and the Spaniard can +be found within two hours of one another.</p> + +<p>Morocco, from political causes, is less civilized +than any other part of the northern part of Africa; +and it can be seen, and with it the southern cities +of Spain and the Rock of Gibraltar, in five or six +weeks, and at a cost of a very few hundred dollars. +This was to me the most interesting part +of the Mediterranean, chiefly, of course—for it +possesses few of the beauties or monuments or +historical values of the other shores of that sea—because +it was unknown to tourists and guide-books. +A visit to the rest of the Mediterranean +is merely verifying for yourself what you have +already learned from others.</p> + + +<p class="center">THE END</p> + +<div class="tn"> +<h3>Transcriber's note:</h3> +<p>The illustrations have been moved so that they do not break up +paragraphs, thus the +page number of the illustration might not match the page number in the +List of Illustrations.</p> +<p>Inconsistent hyphenation remains as in the original.</p> +<p>Spelling has been made consistent throughout where the author's preference could be ascertained.</p> + +<p>Punctuation has been normalized.</p> +<p>Page 203: "It all that pertains to +the Sultan"</p> + +<p>"It all" has been changed to "In all".</p> + +</div> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="400" height="493" alt="cover" title="cover" /> +</div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Rulers of the Mediterranean, by +Richard Harding Davis + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE RULERS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN *** + +***** This file should be named 39522-h.htm or 39522-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/9/5/2/39522/ + +Produced by Mark C. 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