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diff --git a/old/39470-tei/39470-tei.tei b/old/39470-tei/39470-tei.tei new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d339348 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/39470-tei/39470-tei.tei @@ -0,0 +1,15052 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" ?> +<!DOCTYPE TEI.2 SYSTEM "http://www.gutenberg.org/tei/marcello/0.4/dtd/pgtei.dtd"> +<TEI.2 lang="en"> + <teiHeader> + <fileDesc> + <titleStmt> + <title>March to Magdala</title> + <author><name reg="Henty, G. A.">G. A. Henty</name></author> + </titleStmt> + <publicationStmt> + <publisher>Project Gutenberg</publisher> + <date value="2012-04-17">April 17, 2012</date> + <idno type='etext-no'>39470</idno> + <availability> + <p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere + at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. + You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under + the terms of the Project Gutenberg License online at + www.gutenberg.org/license</p> + </availability> + </publicationStmt> + <sourceDesc> + <bibl> + <title>March to Magdala.</title> + <author><name reg="Henty, G. A.">G. A. Henty</name></author> + <imprint> + <pubPlace>London</pubPlace> + <publisher>Robson and Son</publisher> + <date>1868</date> + </imprint> + </bibl> + </sourceDesc> + </fileDesc> + <encodingDesc> + </encodingDesc> + <profileDesc> + <langUsage> + <language id="it" /> + <language id="fr" /> + <language id="en" /> + <language id="de" /> + </langUsage> + </profileDesc> + <revisionDesc> + <change> + <date value="2012-04-17">April 17, 2012</date> + <respStmt> + <resp>Produced by <name>David Edwards</name>, <name>Stefan Cramme</name> + and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</resp> + </respStmt> + <item>Project Gutenberg TEI edition 1</item> + </change> + </revisionDesc> + </teiHeader> + + <pgExtensions> + <pgStyleSheet> + .center { text-align: center } + .italic { font-style: italic } + .small { font-size: 75% } + .smallcaps { font-variant: small-caps } + dateline { text-align: right } + head { text-align: center } + </pgStyleSheet> + </pgExtensions> + +<text lang="en"> +<front> + <div> + <divGen type="pgheader" /> + </div> + <div> + <divGen type="encodingDesc" /> + </div> + <div rend="page-break-before: right"> +<pb/><anchor id='Pgi'/> + +<p rend="center; font-size: large"> +THE MARCH TO MAGDALA. +</p> + +<pb/><anchor id='Pgii'/> + +<p rend="center"> +LONDON:<lb/> +ROBSON AND SON, GREAT NORTHERN PRINTING WORKS,<lb/> +PANCRAS ROAD, N.W. +</p> + +</div> + +<titlePage rend="page-break-before: always; center"> +<pb/><anchor id='Pgiii'/> + <docTitle> + <titlePart type="main">THE<lb/><lb/> +<hi rend="font-size: xx-large">MARCH TO MAGDALA.</hi></titlePart> + </docTitle> + <lb/><lb/><lb/> + <byline><hi rend='smallcaps'>By</hi> <docAuthor>G. A. HENTY</docAuthor>,<lb/> + <hi rend="font-size: small">SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT OF THE <q>STANDARD;</q> AUTHOR OF +<q>A SEARCH FOR A SECRET,</q> ETC.</hi></byline> + <lb/><lb/><lb/> + <docImprint><pubPlace>LONDON:</pubPlace><lb/> + <publisher>TINSLEY BROTHERS, CATHERINE STREET, STRAND.</publisher><lb/> + <date>1868.</date> + </docImprint> +<pb/><anchor id='Pgiv'/> +</titlePage> + <div rend="page-break-before: right"> + <index index="pdf" level1="Contents"/> + <head>Contents</head> + <divGen type="toc"/> + </div> + <div rend="page-break-before: right"> +<pb n='v'/><anchor id='Pgv'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Preface"/><index index="pdf" level1="Preface"/> +<head>PREFACE.</head> + +<p> +In submitting to the public in a collected form the +Letters which have already appeared in the daily +press, a Special Correspondent has the option of +one of two courses. The one course is, to publish +the Letters as nearly as possible as they originally +stood, as a journal written from day to day, and +from week to week; the other, to recast the whole, +to rewrite the Letters, and to give a continuous +narrative of the expedition as of a past event. +The second of these courses has the advantage of +unity of purpose; it will contain fewer errors, fewer +mistaken predictions of the probable course of +events, and, above all, less of the repetitions which +must unavoidably occur in a series of letters. The +style, too, will naturally be far smoother and more +polished than in the original letters, written as they +usually were in haste and under circumstances of +great difficulty. But, on the other hand, such a +narrative would lose much of the freshness which +original letters possess, and it would be deficient +in that interest which a knowledge of the hopes and +<pb n='vi'/><anchor id='Pgvi'/>fears, the doubts and anticipations, the plans destined +to be frustrated, and the opinions constantly +varying with the course of events, must give to a +narrative. The present tense too is far more pleasant +and less monotonous than the preterite. I +have therefore determined, in submitting my Letters +for republication, to adhere as closely as possible +to the original form and matter; not hesitating, +however, to make many additions, alterations, and +excisions, where subsequent information or the course +of events have proved my opinions or conclusions +to have been erroneous. +</p> + +<p> +The present work does not profess to be a scientific +record of the expedition. It gives neither statistics, +general orders, nor official documents. This +will no doubt be hereafter done by some officer far +better qualified for the task than I can be. It is +merely the plain narrative of a looker-on, who accompanied +the expedition from the commencement +of December 1867, when affairs at Zulla were at +their worst, to the closing scene at Magdala. At +the same time, I have not shrunk from stating my +own opinions as to the course of events. A great +disaster like that of the complete break-down of +the Transport-train at Zulla cannot occur without +grievous blame attaching to somebody. I conceive +it to be one of the first duties of a correspondent +to state fearlessly the persons and the causes which, +<pb n='vii'/><anchor id='Pgvii'/>in his opinion, have brought on a great public disaster. +Unpleasant, therefore, though it be to find +fault, I have not hesitated to assign the blame where +I consider it was due. This I did in the very first +letter I wrote from Zulla after landing, before I had +gone up to Senafe; and the opinion I then expressed, +I now, after months have elapsed, and after +hearing the matter discussed in every light, do not +hesitate to reaffirm. +</p> + +<p> +With the exceptions I have alluded to, the +Letters are the same in form and substance as when +they appeared in the columns of the <hi rend='italic'>Standard</hi>; and +although, for the reasons I have given, I am convinced +that it is the wisest course to leave them +so, yet, remembering as I do the circumstances of +haste, fatigue, and difficulty under which they were +written, I cannot but feel extreme diffidence in submitting +them to the public <q>with all their errors +on their head.</q> +</p> + +<signed rend="text-align: right">G. A. H.</signed> + </div> +<pb/><anchor id='Pgviii'/> +</front> +<body rend="page-break-before: right"> + <div> +<pb n="1"/><anchor id="Pg001"/> +<index index="toc" level1="Introductory chapter"/><index index="pdf" level1="Introductory chapter"/> +<head>INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.</head> + +<p> +The Abyssinian expedition has, from the time it was first +determined upon, attracted an amount of attention, not only +in Great Britain but throughout the civilised world, altogether +disproportionate to the strength of the army employed, +or to the extent of the interests at stake. The total force +engaged was under, rather than over, 10,000 men; not one-fifth +the strength of an army which we might ourselves put +into the field for a campaign in India; scarcely a fiftieth +of the force at the command of either of the great Continental +Powers. It was clearly not the magnitude of the +expedition, then, which attracted attention: it was the extraordinary +and novel circumstances under which it was +undertaken; the almost insurmountable difficulties to be +overcome; the unknown nature of the country to be traversed, +and the romantic disinterestedness of the motives +which led England to embark upon it, which has rendered +it one of the most interesting and notable campaigns ever +undertaken. Since the expedition of Pizarro and Cortes in +the middle ages, no such novel and hazardous expedition +is on record. The country itself was like that of the far-famed +Prester John—everything about it smacked of the +marvellous. It was more mountainous, more inaccessible, +more war-loving, more wild than any other country in the +<pb n="2"/><anchor id="Pg002"/>world. The king with whom we waged war was a potentate +who by his military talents had raised himself from a +comparatively obscure position to the sovereignty of all +Abyssinia: he was enlightened beyond his race; patronised +strangers, encouraged manufactures, endeavoured in every +way to improve the condition of his country, and was yet +a bloodthirsty tyrant. The people themselves were a strange +race, far more civilised than other African nations, Christians +in the midst of a Mahometan and Pagan continent, a mixture +of many races—African, Greek, Arab, and Jew. Altogether +it was a land of romance. Nor had travellers done +much to enlighten us as to the country. Some had described +it as fertile in the extreme; others had spoken of +it as a land of mountain and defile, where no sustenance +could be hoped for for the army. They had united only +in prophesying evil things—hunger and thirst, inaccessible +mountain and pathless wastes, fever, cholera, small-pox, +dysentery, the tetse-fly, tapeworm, and guinea-worm. We +were to be consumed with fire; we were to be annihilated +with stones rolled upon us when in ravines; we were to be +cut off in detail upon our marches; we were to be harassed +to death by repeated night and day attacks. All these and +many other prophecies were freely uttered, and it really +appeared as if our expedition was to partake strongly of +the nature of a forlorn-hope. The friends of officers and +men said good-bye to them as if they were going to certain +death, and insurance-offices doubled and trebled the premium +upon their lives. All this assisted to raise the public +interest and anxiety to the highest point. It is needless +now to say that almost the whole of the adverse predictions +were entirely falsified, and that we have met with no +diffi<pb n="3"/><anchor id="Pg003"/>culties whatever beyond mountain and ravine, the want of +transport, and the scarcity of food. +</p> + +<p> +Generally as the subject is known, it is yet necessary, +before commencing the history of the campaign, to say a +few words upon the events which preceded and caused it; +and as the subject has been exhausted by Dr. Beke in his +able work on the Abyssinian captives, I cannot do better +than preface my story with a brief epitome of the facts recited +in his volume. Dr. Beke was well-acquainted with +Mr. Plowden, our late Consul there, and knew thoroughly +the whole of the events which led to the captivity of the +English party, and he was in intimate communication with +their friends here. His statements are supported by numerous +official documents; and this volume, in which he +now sets forth the state of the case, may be apparently received +with confidence as reliable in every particular. +</p> + +<p> +The kingdom of Abyssinia is of extreme antiquity, and +was once a great and flourishing empire. It has been ruled +by a succession of monarchs claiming direct descent from +Menilek, the son of King Solomon by the Queen of Sheba. +For the last century the legitimate monarch has had very +little power, the real authority being in the hands of the +most powerful of the chiefs of the various tribes composing +the empire, and who, as in turns they became dominant, +assumed the title of ras or vizier, keeping the puppet emperor +in a state of honourable captivity, administering affairs +and carrying on wars without the slightest reference to his +wishes and opinions. The kingdom of Abyssinia consists +of an immense elevated plateau or table-land, of great fertility, +and possessing a temperate and agreeable climate. +At its north-eastern extremity it approaches very nearly to +<pb n="4"/><anchor id="Pg004"/>the sea, the port of Massowah at that point being its natural +outlet. Towards the south the table-land trends away from +the sea, being separated from it by a wide low-lying plain, +inhabited by Mahometan tribes. The religion of the natives +of Abyssinia itself has been from very early times Christian, +and they possess a native version of the Scriptures which +dates from the fourth century of the Christian era. The +laws of this singular people are, like our own, founded upon +the code of Justinian. The various tribes which form the +empire, although acknowledging the supremacy of the emperor, +are yet virtually independent, paying a mere nominal +tribute, and making war upon and deposing him whenever +they feel strong enough to do so. These tribes are +very numerous, but the principal may be considered to be +those inhabiting Tigre, which is the province nearest to +Massowah, and therefore commanding the avenues of approach +to the interior; Amhara, the capital, lying to the +south of Tigre, Lasta in the centre, and Shoa, Godjam, and +Kwara to the west. Of these Tigre is the representative of +the ancient kingdom. It is almost entirely surrounded by +the river Takkazye, which separates it from the rest of the +empire; and its inhabitants speak the language of the ancient +Ethiopic, in which is the early version of the Bible. Since +the middle of the sixteenth century the Turks have claimed +the entire seaboard, but have only occupied the Sawakin and +Massowah. +</p> + +<p> +In the year 1810 the English Government, alarmed at +the attempts of the French to obtain a footing in Egypt, dispatched +Mr. Salt, afterwards Consul-General in Egypt, to +Abyssinia, to open friendly relations with that power; and +that gentleman, being unable to penetrate beyond Tigre, the +<pb n="5"/><anchor id="Pg005"/>chief of which country was at the time the ras, or most +powerful chief in the kingdom, delivered the letter from +King George, and the accompanying presents, to that personage. +Almost simultaneously, however, the power of the +French in the Indian Ocean was annihilated, and a few years +afterwards the fall of Napoleon relieving the British Government +of all fear of French aggression in the East, the diplomatic +relations between England and Tigre came to an end. +A constant jealousy and struggle, however, appears to have +been maintained between the Protestant and Roman Catholic +missions, which were alternately fostered and expelled by the +various sovereigns of the country. +</p> + +<p> +In 1847 a British consulate was established, Mr. Plowden +being selected for the post. He unfortunately committed the +great error of entering into friendly relations with the potentate +of Amhara, in place of the independent chief of Tigre, +who, possessing the only outlet of communication, rendered an +alliance with Amhara completely nugatory to both parties. +Mr. Plowden himself, when too late, seems to have discovered +that he had committed an error, and wrote to the Earl of +Clarendon, who was then Foreign Secretary, that he feared +that little commercial advantage could be obtained. His +lordship replied that, having made the treaty and established +the consulate, her Majesty’s Government were reluctant +to renounce all hope of benefit, and begged him to suggest +some plan of establishing himself at Massowah or some +other seaport, and of keeping up a communication with the +interior. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Plowden in his report gave full details as to the +country, and especially the northern portion, into which the +Egyptians were constantly making plundering expeditions, +<pb n="6"/><anchor id="Pg006"/>carrying off the cattle and inhabitants, and selling the latter +as slaves. Consul Plowden wrote strongly to the Egyptian +authorities upon their conduct, and in consequence of his +representations Lord Clarendon remonstrated energetically +with the Viceroy of Egypt upon his aggressions against +Abyssinia. While this was going on, a remarkable man had +made his appearance. Dedjatj Kassai was chief of one of +the Kawra tribes. A man of great ambition and talent, he +conceived the design of making himself master of the whole +of Abyssinia, and in turn attacked and defeated the neighbouring +potentates, and speedily conquered the whole of the +country, with the exception only of Tigre, and then assumed +the title of the Emperor Theodore. Theodore is described in +Mr. Plowden’s despatches as a man of good impulses, and a +desire to rule well and wisely, but of a violent temper, and +an inordinate pride in his kingly dignity and position. With +him Mr. Plowden entered into negotiations for a treaty with +England, for the despatch of an embassy to this country, and +for the establishment of the British consulate in Abyssinia, +with power and jurisdiction in all cases in which a British +subject might be interested. +</p> + +<p> +The Emperor objected to the clause conferring jurisdiction +on the Consul, but promised to give the matter his earnest +attention when he should find time to do so, as he was most +favourably disposed towards England. Lord Clarendon highly +approved of the course Consul Plowden was pursuing, and +stated that the Queen would have much pleasure in receiving, +and treating with due honour, the ambassadors whom his +Majesty might send to her Court. The ratification of this +treaty and the sending the embassy were put off in consequence +of the constant wars in which Theodore was engaged +<pb n="7"/><anchor id="Pg007"/>with rebellious tribes in various parts of his empire, but he +always expressed himself as willing to carry out these engagements +as soon as he could find leisure to enable him to +do so. In March 1860, Consul Plowden was killed during +his journey back to Massowah, from which he had been absent +at the Court of Theodore for five years. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Layard most wrongfully accused Mr. Plowden, in a +speech delivered in the House of Commons on June 30th, +1865, of breach of duty. He stated that Consul Plowden, +<q>instead of attending to the object with which he was placed +there, that of encouraging commercial intercourse between +Great Britain and Abyssinia, plunged into local intrigues.... +Her Majesty’s Government at once sent out instructions +for him to return to his post at Massowah, and no +longer to interfere in their local differences.</q> This accusation +brought forth an indignant protest upon the part of Consul +Plowden’s brother. He showed that Mr. Plowden was +accredited to Abyssinia, and not to Massowah, which is a +Turkish port without trade, and with no British subjects or +interests to protect, and only valuable as the means of entry +into Abyssinia, and of communication with Europe, and obviously +for that reason only made the head-quarters of the +consulate. The duties of the Consul were to watch and +counteract foreign intrigue, to keep peace between Abyssinia +and Egypt, to put down the slave-trade, and to encourage +commerce; duties which it is evident he could not +perform if remaining at Massowah, separated from the seat +of the empire by a hostile tribe. Mr. Plowden pointed out +that his brother had commenced his consulship by going into +the interior with letters and presents to the reigning potentate, +and that he had during his whole term of office remained +<pb n="8"/><anchor id="Pg008"/>there with but few intermissions, his last visit there lasting +for five years without a break. That during all this time he +corresponded regularly with the Foreign Office, who were +aware of his movements, and by whose instruction he was +guided. Thus Mr. Plowden showed conclusively that the +reckless attack which Mr. Layard so chivalrously made, five +years after his death, upon an officer who had nobly performed +most difficult duties, was altogether without foundation. +Upon Consul Plowden’s death Captain Cameron was +gazetted <q>her Majesty’s Consul in Abyssinia,</q> but it was only +on February 9th, 1862, that he arrived at Massowah. His +instructions were rather vague, a good deal being necessarily +left to his own discretion, but he was generally enjoined to +carry on Consul Plowden’s policy, to continue the negotiations +for the treaty, and for the despatch of an embassy to +England. Massowah was of course to be his head-quarters, +but no injunctions were given him against going into the interior. +On the contrary, he was furnished with letters and +presents to the Emperor, to whom Earl Russell introduced +him, and requested Theodore’s protection and favour in his +behalf. Captain Cameron, during the period which elapsed +between his appointment and his departure for his post, had +been thoroughly instructed in the progress which had been +made in the negotiations by Consul Plowden, and had full +authority to take them up at the point at which they were at +that gentleman’s death, and Mr. Stern, the missionary, was +requested by Earl Russell himself to remain in London at +that time in order to discuss with Captain Cameron the contemplated +embassy and other matters. And yet, in the face +of this, Mr. Layard ventured to say, in his place in Parliament, +on October 31, 1865, when quoting Consul Cameron’s +<pb n="9"/><anchor id="Pg009"/>despatch on the subject, <q>Now this was altogether contrary +to the instruction he had received.</q> Consul Cameron was received +with great state and courtesy by the Emperor Theodore, +who again expressed his desire to send an embassy to England. +But a day or two after the Consul reached the Abyssinian +Court the intelligence arrived that our Consul at Jerusalem, +who had been always looked upon, and who had acted +as the protector of the Abyssinian colony there, had received +orders from the Foreign Secretary to withdraw that protection, +and that consequently their convent had been plundered +by the Armenians. This affair of the Jerusalem Abyssinians +is told by Dr. Beke with great clearness, but space forbids +me here to enter upon it; suffice it that Earl Russell without +the smallest cause or pretext withdrew the protection, or rather +good offices, which had been extended by Lord Malmesbury +to the Abyssinian colony, and which had been one cause of +the goodwill with which England was regarded in Abyssinia. +</p> + +<p> +Upon the day after this the Emperor saw Captain Cameron, +told him that he had well considered the subject of the treaty, +about which there would be no difficulty, and he presented +him with a letter which he had written to her Majesty. In +this, after many expressions of regard and good wishes, the +Emperor expresses his intention of attacking the Turks on +account of their constant aggressions upon him, and requests +her Majesty to arrange for the safe-conduct of the ambassadors, +whom he is prepared to send at once to England. Upon +receiving this letter Consul Cameron at once started for +the sea-coast. He was, however, stopped upon his way +by a rebel chief; but his letters were sent down by a native +messenger, and arrived in London the 12th February 1863. +Captain Cameron himself, accompanied by the Emperor’s +re<pb n="10"/><anchor id="Pg010"/>presentative and a strong escort, proceeded to Bogos, to examine +into the truth of the alleged inroads of the Turks or +Egyptians, as they are indifferently called, into that province. +Finding that these were still continued, Captain Cameron +wrote to Consul-General Colquhoun at Alexandria, begging +him to remonstrate with the Egyptian Government. He also +wrote to Earl Russell from Bogos, and twice to the Emperor, +acquainting him with the steps he was taking for the protection +of his subjects, in these respects taking as guide the +conduct of his predecessor, Consul Plowden, acting, as the +advocate of the cause of the Christian Abyssinians against +the Turks, in perfect accord with the representative and +favourite of the Emperor, who was his companion. It is +therefore clear that there is not the least foundation for Earl +Russell’s ill-advised allegation, <q>the chief cause of the Emperor’s +anger with Consul Cameron was this journey to +Bogos.</q> His proceedings, however, incurred the displeasure +of both the Egyptian Government and the home authorities. +In Mr. Plowden’s time Egypt had been in a state of disorganisation, +and therefore the British Government had, on +receiving their Consul’s account of the atrocities executed by +the Egyptian troops upon the inhabitants of Bogos, addressed +the energetic remonstrances of our Foreign Minister to the +Viceroy; but now things were changed. Egypt was compact +and strong, and Earl Russell would not for worlds +offend so well regulated an ally; therefore a sharp reproof +was sent off to Captain Cameron to mind his own business, +and to return to Massowah. Such is the effect of a changed +state of things, and poor Consul Cameron, by not reflecting +on this, was blamed for doing precisely the same for which +Consul Plowden had gained much credit. +</p> + +<pb n="11"/><anchor id="Pg011"/> + +<p> +When Captain Cameron returned to the Court in July, +after his lengthened absence, his position was not a pleasant +one, for he was still without an answer to the Emperor’s +letter to the Queen, which had been sent off October 31st of +the previous year; he had not, indeed, received as yet an +answer to his own despatch enclosing that letter; for owing +to delays it had not, as has been said, reached England until +February the 12th, and Earl Russell had not thought it of +sufficient importance to answer it for more than two months +afterwards, and then without making the slightest allusion to +the Emperor’s letter which it enclosed. +</p> + +<p> +After the Consul had parted with the Emperor’s representative +at Bogos, he had made a visit into the Egyptian province +of Soudan, in accordance with instructions he had received +from the Foreign Office, to inquire into the prospects +of cotton-growing there, as the subject of Egyptian cotton +was then attracting great notice in England. This expedition +added to the anger which the Emperor Theodore felt at not +having received an answer to his letter to her Majesty. The +following conversation took place at his first interview with +Captain Cameron, and plainly enough testifies as to the real +cause of the Emperor’s anger: +</p> + +<p> +<q>Where have you been since you parted from Samuel at +Bogos?</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Into the frontier provinces of Soudan.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>What for?</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>To see about cotton and trade, and so forth.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Who told you to go there?</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>The British Government.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Have you brought me an answer from the Queen of +England?</q> +</p> + +<pb n="12"/><anchor id="Pg012"/> + +<p> +<q>No.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Why not?</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Because I have not received any communication from +the Government upon the subject.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Why, then, do you come to see me now?</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>I request permission to return to Massowah.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>What for?</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Because I have been ordered by the Government to go +there.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>So,</q> exclaimed the exasperated monarch, <q>your Queen +can give you orders to go and visit my enemies the Turks, +and then to return to Massowah; but she cannot send a +civil answer to my letter to her. You shall not leave me +till that answer comes.</q> +</p> + +<p> +Captain Cameron then, in July 1863, became a prisoner,—not +in bonds, indeed, but a prisoner upon parole. In September +the answer arrived from the Emperor Napoleon, to +whom Theodore had despatched a letter at the same time as +to the Queen. This answer gave great offence, as it was +written by Marshal O’Neil, and not by the Emperor himself. +Its contents, too, were singularly ill-judged, and the missive +was torn to pieces before a council of the dignitaries by the +Emperor, and trodden under foot. The French Consul and a +companion were peremptorily ordered to quit the Abyssinian +territory. +</p> + +<p> +In October arrived Earl Russell’s answer to Captain +Cameron, but without the slightest allusion to Theodore’s +letter. Up to this time no cause of dispute whatever had +arisen between Messrs. Stern and Rosenthal and the Emperor; +but the fury which Theodore felt at the slight so wantonly +passed upon him by the British Foreign Secretary now +<pb n="13"/><anchor id="Pg013"/>burst upon the heads of the whole of that nation. On October +the 15th Captain Cameron’s servant, or messenger, was +seized and beaten; and in the evening of the same day Mr. +Stern’s two servants were seized and beaten so cruelly that +they both died the same night. Mr. Stern himself, who was +standing by at the time, happened, in his horror at the proceeding, +to place his hand to his mouth. It was at once +said he was biting his thumb at the Emperor, which is considered +a threat of revenge; and he was accordingly seized +and cruelly beaten, and his life was also for some time despaired +of. For some time nothing further took place, and +then the Emperor, who desired to justify in some way his fit +of rage against a man with whom he had had no dispute or +cause of complaint, had all Mr. Stern’s and Mr. Rosenthal’s +books and papers examined and read, this office being performed +by a Frenchman named Bardel, who appears throughout +to have been a treacherous and bitter enemy of the English +party. Enough criminatory matter was found here, in +the shape of remarks in their diaries upon the conduct of the +Emperor, and they were condemned to death; but this was +commuted to imprisonment. +</p> + +<p> +On Nov. 22d a young Irishman named Kearns arrived +with another despatch from the Foreign Office,—probably the +one of August 13th, but which contained no allusion whatever +to the Emperor’s letter. This naturally exasperated Theodore +more than ever, and Captain Cameron was now ordered to +be chained upon both hands. On the 4th of January Captain +Cameron, his attendants, and the missionaries, were all +put in fetters, and confined in the common prison. The +cause of this fresh proof of the wrath of the King is reported +by Mr. Steiger, a member of the Scottish mission, to have +<pb n="14"/><anchor id="Pg014"/>been the arrival of the head of the Abyssinian convent at +Jerusalem with the news that the British Consul there had +declined to interfere in their behalf. Is anything further +necessary to establish the fact that the treatment of the unfortunate +missionaries was a mere episode incidental to the +main question, which was entirely between the Emperor +Theodore and the British Government? +</p> + +<p> +As to the long imprisonment, the torture and indignities +inflicted upon the captives, they are already well known to +the public. Let us now see what steps were taken by the late +Government to procure their release. +</p> + +<p> +The news of the imprisonment of Captain Cameron appeared +in the Paris and London papers of the 15th of +December; but no one could believe it, the favour in which +the British Consul stood being a matter of notoriety. Lord +Clarendon, however, stated in the House of Lords, in the debate +on February 9, 1866, that the news had been received at +the early date given of the Consul’s detention; but it was only +upon March 16, 1864, or three months after it was known at +the Foreign Office, that the London Society for promoting +Christianity among the Jews received and made public the sad +intelligence. Mrs. Stern wrote a petition to the Queen, asking +her to send a letter under the sign-manual, written by herself +to the Emperor. Lord Shaftesbury handed this letter to +Earl Russell, adding his own prayer to that of Mrs. Stern’s, +and requesting him to present the petition to the Queen. On +the following day, May 7th, Earl Russell returned the petition, +unpresented, to Lord Shaftesbury, saying that <q>after much +deliberation he had come to the conclusion that he ought not +to advise the Queen to write to the King of Abyssinia.</q> +</p> + +<p> +So matters might have remained to the present day had +<pb n="15"/><anchor id="Pg015"/>not a note which Captain Cameron had written during his +captivity been received by his relatives, and by them most +indiscreetly published in the papers. In this he said that +there was no hope of his release unless an answer was sent to +the Emperor’s letter. Everyone was filled with indignation +at the delay of fourteen months which had taken place in +sending an answer to so important a document, and Earl +Russell and his colleagues came to the conclusion that after +all they ought to advise her Majesty to reply to the letter, +which she accordingly did, and towards the end of June +the letter was sent off. But so inefficiently was this done, +that after it had reached Cairo it was sent back to England +to have alterations made in it, and even then it was not +perfect, for it was discovered many months afterwards that +the royal signet had not been attached, and a fresh letter +was accordingly sent out in February or March 1865. The +person selected to carry out this delicate business was a +Mr. Rassam, who had acted as paymaster to the men employed +by Mr. Layard at Nineveh, and who was instructed +to demand the release of Consul Cameron, but that as the +other captives were not British subjects, he was not to speak +too authoritatively in their behalf. But Mr. Rassam had, +Dr. Beke affirms, another and far more delicate mission. +<q>He was to make a good case for the British Government—to +remove the blame from their shoulders, even if it were +thrown on those of anyone else. It did not matter who +might be the scapegoat as long as the Government were +exonerated. This is said quite advisedly.</q> Mr. Rassam went +to Massowah, where he remained a year doing apparently +nothing whatever. Dr. Beke thinks that all along, both +in this and in his subsequent conduct, when he went into +<pb n="16"/><anchor id="Pg016"/>the interior and saw the Emperor, his conduct was not, to +say the least of it, judicious. The release of the prisoners +when Mr. Rassam did at last see the Emperor and present +the Queen’s letter, and their subsequent imprisonment, together +with Mr. Rassam, are known to all. +</p> + +<p> +Throughout all the numerous debates in the Houses <anchor id="corr016"/><corr sic="o">of</corr> +Parliament during this period, Earl Russell and Mr. Layard +persistently endeavoured to burke all discussion by declaring +that it would come to the ears of the Emperor; but when +at last the House insisted upon being no longer put off with +vague generalities, these two gentlemen, who had so deprecated +anything being said which might hurt the feelings of +the Emperor Theodore, were now guilty of applying the +strongest and most offensive epithets to him, which, had +they come to the knowledge of the Emperor, would have +insured the instant execution of his captives. This was, to +say the least of it, a strange and peculiar instance of inconsistency +upon the part of these thoughtful statesmen. In +consequence of these debates in the House, Earl Russell at +length found that it was a matter which could no longer be +tampered with, and he himself appointed Mr. Palgrave to +start for Abyssinia to endeavour to effect the release of the +Consul and his companions in captivity. Mr. Rassam, however, +prevented anything being done by this gentleman. +Nothing, indeed, if Dr. Beke is to be trusted, can be more +extraordinary than the conduct of this person. He received +the news of his recall while he was, as usual, waiting quietly +at Massowah. Instantly he embarked in the steamer which +brought the intelligence, steamed to Suez, and from there +telegraphed to her Majesty’s agent and Consul-General in +Egypt that Consul Cameron had been released. This is +<pb n="17"/><anchor id="Pg017"/>proved to have been utterly without foundation, but it had +the desired effect of putting a stop to Mr. Palgrave’s progress, +that gentleman having arrived at Cairo, and being +upon the point of proceeding up the Nile. Mr. Rassam +declined all fellowship with Mr. Palgrave, and refused to +agree to the proposition that one should proceed up the Nile +and the other <hi rend="italic">viâ</hi> Massowah. Mr. Rassam then took the +presents brought by Mr. Palgrave, and started back for +Massowah, from whence he did what there is no apparent +reason why he should not have done at first, started for the +interior. Mr. Palgrave remained at Cairo to await the result +of Mr. Rassam’s mission. There he remained when the +news came, in March 1866, that the captives were <anchor id="corr017"/><corr sic="released.">released,</corr> +and were on their way to the coast; there he remained +until Mr. Flad arrived in Egypt with the news of the detention +of Mr. Rassam and the captives; and then, extraordinary +to state, when it would seem that he might be +of use, he started off by the first steamer to England. +</p> + +<p> +As Dr. Beke says, the whole matter is an enigma which +requires solution. This sudden passage of Mr. Rassam to +Egypt upon the news of his recall being received by him, +the untrue telegram which he sent off from thence, and +which put a stop to Mr. Palgrave’s expedition—in short, +every incident connected with the conduct of Mr. Layard’s +ex-paymaster requires a most searching investigation. +</p> + +<p> +Such is the account given by Dr. Beke; and as Mr. +Layard, although openly attacked, has never disproved a +single statement alleged against him, but has contented himself +with vehement personal attacks upon Dr. Beke (probably +upon the principle of the lawyer—<q>when you have no +<pb n="18"/><anchor id="Pg018"/>case, blackguard your opponent</q>), it must be assumed that +in all material points Dr. Beke’s statements are correct. +</p> + +<p> +Such was the state of things when the Conservative +Ministry came into power; and after another fruitless effort +to ransom the prisoners, war was determined upon as the +only resource remaining. +</p> + +<p> +The announcement of the intention of Government was +received with general satisfaction. It was not a war for +which any enthusiasm was felt; there was no national glory +to be gained, no national advantage; but a national stain was +to be wiped off, and a party of our countrymen rescued +from a position into which they had fallen by no fault whatever +of their own, but by the disgraceful <hi rend="italic">lâches</hi> of the Government +they served; therefore it may be said that England +in general, if it did not enter heartily into the war, and +winced a little at the thought of the probable enormous expense, +yet cordially acquiesced in its necessity. War once +determined upon, the columns of the newspapers were inundated +with suggestions from everyone who had ever been +in Abyssinia, and from a vast number of persons who had +not; and these, although they differed upon almost every +point, yet agreed upon piling danger upon difficulty, and +horror upon horror, until the very air, earth, and water of +Abyssinia seemed to swarm with worms and other creeping +things. In the mean time the preparations went steadily on. +Officers were sent from England to Egypt, Spain, and +various parts of the Mediterranean to purchase mules; Woolwich +was busied with the preparation of mountain guns; +transports were taken up, hospital-ships were fitted out, +and large quantities of tents and other stores sent out from +the Tower. This was nearly all which England was to +<pb n="19"/><anchor id="Pg019"/>contribute, for it was determined that the expedition should +be entirely an Indian one, and that Bombay should have the +honour as well as the responsibility of all the arrangements. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as orders were received from England to fit +out an expedition with all speed, Sir Seymour FitzGerald, +the Governor of Bombay, and Sir Robert Napier, Commander-in-chief +of the Bombay army, set to work in earnest. +The greatest credit is undoubtedly due to the former +for his untiring zeal and earnestness; he was indefatigable: +but at the same time I doubt greatly the wisdom of committing +the arrangements connected with a great expedition of +this sort to a civilian, who necessarily must be unacquainted +with the requirements of an army, and who must be entirely +guided by the advice of his council. The consequence +was that Sir Robert Napier was obliged to consult the Governor +on every point, and the Governor again had to consult +his own military adviser, an officer necessarily of far +less standing than Sir Robert Napier, who was thus liable +to be overruled, nominally by the Governor, but in reality +by a subordinate officer. Thus, as one instance out of many, +Sir Robert Napier’s plan for a transport train, which was +sent in to the Governor for sanction early in September, +was entirely put aside, and the new scheme was not issued +by the Governor for two months afterwards; thus Sir Robert, +who when he once arrived in Abyssinia was solely +responsible, was liable to have the whole of his arrangements +destroyed by the break-down of a transport train, +with the organisation of which he had nothing whatever +to do. +</p> + +<p> +As the present is merely a narrative of the march of the +army to Magdala, I must pass cursorily over the +prepara<pb n="20"/><anchor id="Pg020"/>tions in Bombay. I will, however, give a few extracts from +the memoranda issued by Sir Robert Napier, and which will +be sufficient to show how accurately he estimated the difficulties +of the work to be done, and how thoroughly he +thought over every detail. +</p> + +<p> +In his memorandum of August 8th, Sir Robert Napier +estimates that he will require 12,000 men, for that 2000 must +remain at the port, and at Post No. 1 upon the high land +(Senafe); 2000 men at Antalo, or at some similar point in advance; +and 2000 men to keep open communication with the +advanced column, and to support it if necessary. +</p> + +<p> +In minute of August 31st, he farther develops his plans. +He there speaks of Post No. 1 as at Zulla, Post No. 2 as at +Senafe, Post No. 3 as at Antalo, which, he says, <q>will be +one of great importance, and should be very strong.</q> <q>Post +No. 4 will probably be not far from Socota, which will also +be a very vital point. It is in a difficult and rugged country, +and will be our last main base of supplies from which the +operating force will be supported.</q> Farther on he says: <q>It +will be necessary to convey to our extreme base, which for +convenience I will call Socota, for the force required to hold +that mountainous country, and for the corps of operation +(probably in all 7000 men), supplies for four months.</q> In +the same minute he says: <q>On advancing from Post No. 2 +(Senafe) the leading division will move forward at once to +Antalo, and the remainder of the advancing force will take +post upon the road to cover the transit of supplies for five +months from No. 2 to No. 3, being posted at stations where +they may obtain water and forage, and then supplies will be +passed on to the front for 9000 men. From Antalo the same +process will be repeated until the supplies for 7000 men shall +<pb n="21"/><anchor id="Pg021"/>have been carried to Post No. 4 at Socota. From that point +the operative column will act with supplies for one or two +months as may be convenient.</q> +</p> + +<p> +These extracts are exceedingly interesting, as they show +the original plans of the campaign as laid down by Sir Robert +Napier. In the course of the narrative, it will be seen how entirely +this plan had to be deviated from, owing to the scarcity +of food and forage, and the partial break-down of the transport +train; how Post No. 4, described as of <q>vital</q> importance, +had to be altogether dispensed with; and how, in consequence, +the army, when within five or six days of Magdala, +were almost destitute of supplies, while their base at Antalo +was two hundred miles distant. +</p> + +<p> +On September 12th Sir Robert issued an excellent memorandum +on the fitting-up of the ships and the appliances for +landing animals, and making many suggestions for the health +and comfort of the troops. +</p> + +<p> +In regard to the selection of the troops to form the expedition, +Sir Robert himself chose the various regiments. A considerable +discussion arose between the different Presidencies, +Madras and Bengal naturally wishing to contribute as large a +quota as possible. Upon this subject the General wisely said, +September 5th: <q>I consider it especially of advantage to +have the native regiments, if possible, of one army, as they +work in harmony with and rely upon each other; if they are of +different Presidencies, feelings of great bitterness arise when +one or other is left in the rear, and partialities are conjured +up as the reason why one or other is not taken to the +front.</q> +</p> + +<p> +Considerable correspondence took place in relation to the +formation and constitution of the pioneer force, concerning +<pb n="22"/><anchor id="Pg022"/>which the General’s opinion was overruled by that of his +excellency the Governor. The following extract from memorandum +of September 8th fully shows this: <q>I concluded that +I should receive some formal and definite information of any +change in his excellency’s views or plans, and I was therefore +not prepared to learn from Colonel Marriott, when the +expedition was nearly ready to proceed, that his Excellency +had decided to submit entirely to Colonel Merewether the responsible +duty of determining finally the point of debarkation, +and of converting the reconnoissance into an occupation of +the coast by a body of about 1500 men. Of all the various +circumstances which may have led his Excellency to this conclusion, +I am not fully informed; but I entertain strong objections +to the question being left entirely to Colonel Merewether’s +decision,—he being, in compliance with his Excellency’s +opinion (expressed in his Excellency’s note to Colonel +Marriott), in military command of the party,—because, while +concurring entirely with his Excellency in his high estimation +of that officer, it has seemed to me that Colonel Merewether +has strong preconceived opinions in favour of a line of route +which from the most recent reports, especially that of M. +Munsinger, appears to me to be one that would be dangerous +to the success of the expedition, and that his selection of a +point of debarkation will be sensibly influenced by such very +strong and sincere opinions.</q> Sir Robert Napier’s protest +was attended to, and other officers were associated with Colonel +Merewether; but this extract is sufficient to show how much +was done by the Governor of Bombay without the concurrence +or even consultation of Sir Robert Napier. +</p> + +<p> +The general instructions to the pioneer force were precise: +they were directed to select a place of landing, and then to +<pb n="23"/><anchor id="Pg023"/>inquire about the question of obtaining carriage and supplies +from the natives (this last being Colonel Merewether’s +special duty); and to Colonel Wilkins, R.E., was assigned +specially to determine the adaptability of the shore for landing, +the erection of piers, floating wharves, and shelter of all +kinds; he was also ordered to advise upon the military value +of positions selected, and to assist in general <anchor id="corr023"/><corr sic="reconnoisance">reconnoissance</corr>. +But the point upon which above all others General +Napier laid stress was, that the pioneer force should on no +account push forward into the high land; he knew that there +could be no possible utility in their so doing, and that it +would entail a great and unnecessary labour to provision them +at a distance from the sea, especially up so difficult a country. +Both upon Colonel Merewether and Colonel Phayre did he +impress this point. In his letter of the 9th October to the +former officer he said, <q><hi rend="italic">It is not at all intended that this +force shall take up a position on the high ground</hi>, for which +its strength and composition are unfitted.</q> Farther on he +says, <q>If news is satisfactory, Staveley’s brigade will sail, and +<hi rend="italic">upon its arrival</hi> the advance may be made.</q> To Colonel +Phayre he was equally explicit. In a letter to him dated 9th +October he says, <q><hi rend="italic">It is not of course intended that Colonel +Field should move to the high table-land</hi> at Dexan, &c., but +merely to take up such position as will cover the dépôt and +protect the cattle.</q> And again farther on, <q>You will understand +that it is <hi rend="italic">not my desire to precipitate a lodgment upon +the table-land</hi>, which we should have to maintain too long +before advancing.</q> +</p> + +<p> +How these officers carried out the instructions thus clearly +and strongly laid down, we shall see hereafter. +</p> + +<p> +It is needless now to enter into any detail of the +prepara<pb n="24"/><anchor id="Pg024"/>tions at Bombay, but it may be said that they were of the +most extensive and complete character. Everything which +could be thought of was provided for the health and comfort +of the troops. Money was lavished like water; but, in the +haste and bustle which prevailed, there is no question that the +authorities were in many cases grossly imposed upon, and +that stores were sent out of quality so utterly bad as to be +perfectly useless. I may mention as an example the boots for +the drivers of the transport train, which never lasted over a +week, and very few of which attained even that comparatively +respectable age. As with these, so with many other stores; +but it is probable that cases of this sort are inseparable +from a hastily-prepared expedition. The stores which were +subsequently forwarded were very much better in quality. +</p> + +<p> +After these introductory remarks, I begin my narrative +from the date of my own sailing from Bombay. +</p> + +</div><div rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n="25"/><anchor id="Pg025"/> +<index index="toc" level1="The March to Magdala"/><index index="pdf" level1="The March to Magdala"/> +<head>THE MARCH TO MAGDALA.</head> + + <div> +<index index="toc" level1="On board Transport General Havelock, December 1st, 1867"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="On board Transport General Havelock, December 1st, 1867"/> +<dateline> +On board Transport General Havelock,<lb/> +December 1st, 1867. +</dateline> + +<p> +I am happy to say that, speaking personally, the Abyssinian +expedition has begun. I am on my way to that cheerful +and well-ordered country. Had I known on landing in Bombay +that I should be detained there for a month, I should +have made myself very comfortable, and should have enjoyed +myself exceedingly. But I thought that, although the Commander-in-chief +and the main body of the expedition were +not sailing for two months, I should do better to push on at +once. I accordingly applied for a passage, and was promised +one as soon as possible. This phrase, <q>as soon as possible,</q> +in the mouth of an ordinary individual, means something. +From an official it means just nothing. It is merely +one of those vague ambiguities in which the official mind +delights. It is a phrase which admits of no argument whatever. +</p> + +<p> +Day after day passed, and nothing came of it. A steamer +or two started, but although we expressed our willingness to +sleep on deck, and put up with any accommodation whatever, +no room could be found. One of our number, hopeless +and disgusted, took passage in the last Peninsular and +<pb n="26"/><anchor id="Pg026"/>Oriental steamer, and is probably at the present moment wandering +about Aden, praying for a passage across. I thought +it better to wait here until I could be taken direct to our +destination. At last came the intelligence that our horses +could be put on board a sailing-ship. This was something +done, and I felt really thankful when, after a long day’s work, +I left the ship’s side, leaving the horses and their syces on +board. Indeed, the servant question is one of the most serious +of those which present themselves to the mind of an intending +Abyssinian expeditionist. It is not difficult to get one. +You only have to speak, to get half-a-dozen servants and +syces. But you know, both by the warnings of your friends +and by your own instincts, that so many applicants, so many +rogues. It is at present the very best profession in Bombay +to get hired to a master going to Abyssinia, and to disappear +two days before he leaves with his purse and any +other portable valuables which may come handy. My first +servant, a mild Hindoo of engaging aspect, was seized with +a pulmonary affection, while his brother, who was servant to +a friend of mine, was at the last moment melted by the tears +of an aged and despairing mother, and both left us; but not +until some hours after their departure did we find that they +had, of course accidentally, carried away with them a considerable +amount of specie and small valuables. When at last +a servant is obtained who really does mean to go to Abyssinia, +there is no little trouble to be gone through with him. +He must have a month’s, or perhaps two months’, pay in advance. +He must have an arrangement made for the payment +of the greater part of his wages to his family during his +absence. He must be provided, at your expense, with warm +clothes, boots, blankets, &c.; and all this with the strong +<pb n="27"/><anchor id="Pg027"/>chance of his bolting at the last moment. One of my syces +alarmed me greatly by not turning up on the morning when +the horses were to be embarked; but he finally appeared upon +the landing-stage just as they were being slung into a lighter, +three hours after the time named. Whether he or any of the +syces finally accompanied the horses I am unable to say, as +the ship, instead of sailing that afternoon as positively settled +by the authorities, was detained three or four days; and it is +very probable that during that time the syces slipped ashore +with their warm clothes, advance of wages, &c. This painful +question cannot be solved until the ship with the horses +arrives at Annesley Bay. Another four or five days passed, +and then came the welcome order to go at once on board +the General Havelock, which was to start the next day at +noon. On board we accordingly went, but found, as we anticipated, +that there was no chance of her starting for that +day at any rate. The usual conflict of departments was taking +place. Some department had ordered a force of twenty +European soldiers and fifty Sepoys belonging to the transport +train to come on board. This they did. Then came a +committee of some other department, and questioned whether +the Havelock was fit to carry this force, and whether +they had not better be transferred to some other ship. +Finding that the men’s things were all below, it was determined +to leave them as they were. Then the same committee, +with a view, I suppose, of making the vessel more +comfortable, determined to send three and a half tons of +gunpowder on board, and with this intent sent a carpenter +in the course of the afternoon, who took down the only +available bath, and prepared to convert the same into a powder-magazine. +The next morning the same carpenter came +<pb n="28"/><anchor id="Pg028"/>on board and brought some more tools, and then returned +to shore. In the afternoon he fetched the tools away. In +the mean time one department had sent the water-lighter +alongside; but another department had sent no tanks on +board to receive it. Presently that department sent some +tanks, but as it had not occurred to it to measure the hatchways, +the tanks were considerably larger than the opening +down which they had to go, so they had to be taken away +and a fresh set of tanks brought on board. Then, long after +dusk, the water-ship again came alongside, and we took in +our water. In the mean time we went ashore to the department +which had sent us on board, to ask when it was probable +that the Havelock would really sail. We were assured +by that department that she had already started, and we had +great difficulty in persuading it that she was still at anchor, +and likely to remain so. The next morning, the powder not +having arrived, and nothing more having been heard either +of it or of the carpenter, our captain got up steam and +started; and it is by no means improbable that the powder, +with one or two committees of departments, are at present +cruising about Bombay harbour looking for the Havelock. +And yet ours is an absolutely favourable example, for a +steamer last week was detained six days after the date of +the embarkation of its passengers. And if this confusion +exists now, when only one or two vessels are starting a-week, +what a scene of confusion will it be when the main body of +the force sails! It always is so, and always will be so, as +long as our army is managed by a set of independent departments, +who have no concert whatever between them. We +have here the quartermaster-general’s department, the +commissariat, the land-transport, the marine, the +adjutant-<pb n="29"/><anchor id="Pg029"/>general’s department, the ordnance, and so on <hi rend="italic">ad infinitum</hi>. +Military men are the first and loudest to complain of this +multiplication of offices without union or concert, which work +together well enough in quiet times, but which in emergencies +paralyse each other’s efforts, and cause a confusion in +exact proportion to their own number. It needs some military +reformer of an iron will, and an assured parliamentary +support, to put an end to all this, to do away with the independence +of the various departments of the service, and +to make them all subordinate branches of the adjutant-general’s +office; so that a general upon service may give his +orders to his adjutant-general only, and the latter may instruct +the officers of the departments under him as to what +should be done. All indents and orders should be given to +him alone, and he should be responsible for the working of +the several branches. In some respects it turned out to be +as well that we had not started at the time named, for at +night, when the rations were served out to the troops, it +was found that both the porter and arrack, which form a +somewhat important part of a soldier’s rations, had not been +sent on board by the commissariat. Great was the consternation. +However, fortunately next day, while departments +were skirmishing over water and water-tanks, and the carpenter +was going and coming with his tools, there was time +to send to the commissariat, and for them to repair their +error. +</p> + +<p> +The General Havelock is a steamer of about 250 tons, +and the object of her builders appears to have been to combine +the maximum of rolling qualities with the minimum of +speed. In calm weather she can steam six and a half knots +an hour; in a slight swell she can roll to an angle of +thirty-<pb n="30"/><anchor id="Pg030"/>five degrees. Having said this, I have said all that can be +said in dispraise of the vessel. She has capital accommodation +for a ship of her size, a snug little poop-deck, extremely +comfortable seats and chairs, a perfect absence of any smell +from the engine-room, and one of the jolliest skippers in existence. +So we are very comfortable. We are five in number; +three officers of the Land Transport Corps, and two +<q>specials;</q> and as we get under the awnings on the poop-deck, +while a fair breeze is helping us along at the rate of +eight knots an hour, we agree that we have all the advantages +of keeping a steam-yacht without the expense. The +charge Government makes to officers while on board is eight +rupees a-day, which is handed over to the captain of the +ship, who has to supply everything for that sum. I do not +think that the captain of the Havelock will be a gainer by +this transaction. We all sleep on deck, not from necessity, +for there are plenty of berths below, but partly because the +nights on deck are charming, although a little cold, and +partly from horror of a species of monster, which appears +to me to be as large as cats—but this may be the effect +of imagination and extreme terror—and to run much faster. +They have many legs, and horns resembling bullocks’. They +are fearless of man, and indeed attack him with ferocity. +I call them vampires—their ordinary name is cockroaches. +This sleeping on deck is attended with occasional drawbacks. +Last night I was awakened by a splash of water on my face. +Thinking it was spray, I pulled my rug over my face, but +only for an instant, for a rush of water came down upon +me as if emptied from a bucket. In an instant everyone was +upon his feet, and began dragging his bed over to the leeward +side of the ship. But it was no use. The rain tore +<pb n="31"/><anchor id="Pg031"/>across the deck as if pumped by a hundred steam fire-engines, +and nothing remained for us but to beat a retreat +down through the cabin staylight, for to go outside the awning +by the ordinary poop-ladder was out of the question. +Our first amazement and consternation over, we had a great +laugh as we gained the cabin-floor, drenched through, and +with our silk sleeping-dresses clinging to us in the most +uncomfortable manner. By the time we had changed these +the storm was over as suddenly as it had begun, and taking +fresh rugs we soon regained our beds, which, turned over, +were dry enough on the lower side for all practical purposes. +</p> + +<p> +Over the engine-room is a large bridge-deck, and here +are the quarters of the European soldiers, twenty-five in +number, while the sepoys occupy the main deck. Both the +Europeans and sepoys are volunteers from various regiments +into the Land Transport Train. This is a newly-organised +corps, and is only formed for the purposes of the expedition, +both officers and men returning at its conclusion to their +regiments. It is commanded by Major Warden, and consists +of fourteen divisions, each containing two thousand baggage-animals. +To look after each of these divisions are a +captain and two subalterns, together with thirty-eight men—Europeans +and sepoys, who are divided into four classes. +When it is remembered that among the two thousand animals +are oxen, horses, mules, camels, and elephants, and that +there will be an attendant to each two animals, it will be +seen that the post of officer in a division of the Land Transport +Corps will be by no means a sinecure. His difficulties, +too, will be heightened by the fact that the drivers will be +men of innumerable nationalities and races—Spaniards and +Italians with the mules, Greeks from Smyrna and Beyrout, +<pb n="32"/><anchor id="Pg032"/>Egyptians and Nubians, Arabs and Affghans, together with +men from all the varied tribes of India. The sepoys who +are with us do not appear to me at all the sort of men for +the service. They belong entirely to infantry regiments, +and are quite unaccustomed to horses. The Hindoo is not +naturally a horseman; and to take a number of infantry +sepoys and put them on horses, and set them at once to +severe work, is an absurdity, which will be speedily demonstrated +to be such by the men being knocked up and in hospital +by the end of the first week. Only men belonging +to the native cavalry should have been allowed to volunteer. +It is true that many of the Europeans also belong to line +regiments, but the same objection does not hold good to +them, for most Englishmen are more or less accustomed to +horses, and if not they soon fall into it. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Annesley Bay, December 4th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Annesley Bay, December 4th"/> +<dateline>Annesley Bay, December 4th.</dateline> + +<p> +Our voyage has not terminated so uneventfully as it began, +and I am no longer writing on board the General Havelock, +but on the Salsette, a very fine Peninsular and Oriental +steamer, having a portion of the 33d regiment from Kurrachee +on board, and having the Indian Chief, with another +portion of the same regiment, in tow. This Red-Sea navigation +is a most intricate and dangerous business, and this +western shore is in particular completely studded with +islands and coral-reefs. These islands differ entirely in +their character—some are bold rocks rising perpendicularly +from the water with rugged peaks and fantastic outlines, and +attaining an elevation of two or three hundred feet; others, +far more dangerous, are long flat islets, rising only two or +<pb n="33"/><anchor id="Pg033"/>three feet above the sea, and imperceptible on a dark night +at a distance of fifty yards. Still others, again, most dangerous +of all, have not yet attained the dignity even of islets, +although millions of little insects work night and day to bring +them up to the surface. These are the coral-reefs, which, +rising from a depth of many fathoms to within a few feet of +the surface, form so many pitfalls to the unsuspecting mariner. +The General Havelock was running along the coast +with a favourable breeze, and we had been all the morning +watching the low shore, with its stunted bushes and the +strangely-conical hills which rise from it, bearing a fantastic +resemblance to haycocks, and barns, and saddles, and +with a mighty range of mountains in the distance. These +mountains had a strange interest to us, for among and over +them we have to go. They were our first sight of Abyssinia, +and were by no means encouraging as a beginning. +In this way we spent the morning, and after lunch were +about to resume doing nothing, when we were startled by +hearing the man who was standing in the chains heaving the +lead, shout out, <q>Five fathoms!</q> His call two minutes before +had been ten fathoms. The captain shouted <q>Stop +her!</q> <q>Turn her astern!</q> and the chief engineer leapt below +to see the order carried out. In the momentary pause +of the beat of the screw, the leadman’s voice called out +<q>Two fathoms!</q> The screw was reversed, and a rush of +yellow foaming water past the side of the ship told us at +once that it was at work, and that the sandy bottom was +close to her keel. Very gradually we stopped, and were +congratulating ourselves on the near shave we had had, +when, looking over her side, we saw that, vigorously as the +screw was working astern, the ship remained just where +<pb n="34"/><anchor id="Pg034"/>she was. The General Havelock was palpably ashore. At +first we were disposed to make light of the affair, for, +grounding as she did imperceptibly, we imagined that she +would get off with little difficulty. Accordingly we first +worked ahead, then astern, but with an equal absence of +result. The head and stern both swung round, but she was +fast amidships, and only moved as on a pivot. The troops +were now ordered on deck, and were massed, first aft and +then forward; but the General Havelock gave no sign. +Then it was resolved to roll her, the men running in a body +from side to side. Then we tried to jump her off. The +whole of the Europeans and sepoys were set to jump in +time—first on one side, and then on the other. A funnier +sight, eighty men, black and white, leaping up and down, +and then going from side to side, could not be conceived. +Everyone laughed except those who swore when their naked +feet were jumped upon by the thick ammunition-boots of +some English soldier. Presently the laughter abated, for +everyone was getting too hot even to laugh. The scene +was strangest at this time, and reminded me, with the +leaping figures, the swarthy skins, and the long hair, more +of a New Zealand war-dance than anything I had ever seen. +Hours passed in experiments of this sort, but still the General +Havelock remained immovable, only when the sun went +down and the wind rose she rolled almost as heavily as if +afloat, and lifted on the waves and fell into her bed with a +heavy bump which was very unpleasant. Boats were now +lowered and soundings taken, and it was found that the +water was deeper on nearly every side than at the exact spot +upon which we had struck. Hawsers were got out and the +men set to work at the capstan; but the anchors only drew +<pb n="35"/><anchor id="Pg035"/>home through the sandy bottom, and brought up branches +of white coral. Part of the crew were all this time occupied +in shifting the cargo. But in spite of every effort the +ship remained perfectly fast. It was evident that she would +not move until a portion at least of her cargo was removed +from her. While we were debating how this was to be done, +for the shore on either side was a good mile distant, the +wind fresh, and the boats small, an Arab dhow, which we +had observed running down, anchored about a hundred yards +off. The Sheik came on board, and after immense talk +agreed to come alongside for three or four hours to take a +portion of the cargo and the troops on board, and so to +lighten our ship. When the bargain was closed, and the +sum to be paid agreed upon, he discovered that there was +not water enough for his boat to float alongside. The negotiations +thus came to an end, and the Sheik returned to his +own craft. Soon after another and larger dhow came up and +anchored at a short distance. We sent off to see if he could +help us, but it seemed that he had no less than seventy-two +camels on board bound for Annesley Bay. How the poor +brutes could have been stowed in a boat which did not look +large enough to hold twenty at the very most, I cannot imagine, +and they had come in that state all the way from Aden. +About an hour after we had got ashore, a large steamer, +which we knew by her number to be the Salsette, with a +ship in tow, had passed at a distance of about three miles, +and to her we signalled for assistance. She, however, passed +on, and anchored with her consort under the lee of an island, +and about six miles off. We had given up all hopes of aid +from her, and had begun as a last resource to throw our +coal overboard, when at nine o’clock in the evening we saw +<pb n="36"/><anchor id="Pg036"/>a boat approaching with a lug-sail. When she came alongside +she turned out to belong to the Salsette, which had most +fortunately orders to anchor at the spot where we had seen +her. We found, on conversation with the officer who had +come on board, that, loaded with troops as she was, it would +not be safe for her to come within towing distance of us, +and therefore that she must leave us to our fate, especially +as we did not appear to be in any immediate danger. They +kindly offered, however, to take my fellow-correspondent +and myself on board, an offer which we gratefully accepted, +as it was quite possible that we might not be off for another +week. When we arrived on board the Salsette we were received +with the greatest kindness, and before starting in the +morning had the satisfaction of seeing the signal flying from +the Havelock of <q>We are afloat.</q> +</p> + +<p> +Relieved from all anxiety on account of our late shipmates, +our servants, and our luggage, we enjoyed the run to Annesley +Bay exceedingly. It is an immense bay, and, indeed, +a finer harbour, once in, could hardly be imagined. The +entrance, however, is intricate and dangerous. Long shoals +extend for miles near its mouth, and there are several islands +within the bay itself. All eyes, or rather all telescopes, were +directed towards the spot which was to be our destination. +My glass, one by Salomans, is a wonderful instrument for its +size, and is indeed far better than any I have tried it against +since I left England. My first impressions of our landing-place +are, I confess, anything but pleasing. A mist hangs over the +land, which excludes a view of the hills, or, indeed, of anything +except the foreshore. This is a dead flat, covered with +low bushes. The town consists of about fifty tents and marbuees, +a large skeleton of a wooden storehouse, piles of hay +<pb n="37"/><anchor id="Pg037"/>and grain-bags, hundreds of baggage-animals, with a throng +of natives wandering about. There is but one pier, and this +is still in course of construction. In the harbour are anchored +a dozen or so of transports and a few native dhows. +Some of these dhows are occupied in transporting forage and +stores from the ships to shore; and as they cannot themselves +approach within a distance of a couple of hundred +yards of the shore, long lines of natives transport the goods +upon their heads to land. One ship is unloading mules; +this she accomplishes by lowering them on to a raft, upon +which they are towed with ropes to within a short distance +of the shore, when the horses are pushed or persuaded to +alight and walk. The Havelock came in just before sunset, +about two hours after ourselves. I have not yet been ashore. +The Beloochees, who arrived yesterday in the Asia and the +Peckforten Castle, are landing to-day. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Annesley Bay, December 6th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Annesley Bay, December 6th"/> + +<dateline>Annesley Bay, December 6th.</dateline> + +<p> +I had not intended to write again until the time of the +departure of the next mail, as my last letter went off only +yesterday morning; but two companies of the 33d regiment +are to land this afternoon and to start at midnight, and as +this is the first body of European troops who have landed, I +think it as well to accompany them to Senafe, sixty miles +distant, where Colonels Merewether and Phayre have gone +up with the pioneer force. They will not advance beyond +this point for some time, and I shall therefore, when I have +seen the passes, return, after a few days’ stay there, to this +place, which is at present the main point of interest. I +should not move from it, indeed, were it not that there is +<pb n="38"/><anchor id="Pg038"/>some doubt whether the King of Tigré will permit us to +pass. He is at present stationed near the head of the pass +with a body of 7000 men, but I fancy his only object in this +is to make us buy his friendship at as high a rate as possible. +If he really means mischief it will be a very serious matter +indeed; for, although we should of course scatter his forces +easily enough, it would give us such an enormous line of +march to be guarded that it would be impossible to move a +step until we had completely subdued Tigré. I sincerely +hope that this will not be the case. But another week or +two will show; and in the mean time, as I shall have plenty +of opportunities of writing on the subject, I must return to +my present topic, which is the state of things at the landing-place +here. It is not, as I said in my last, a cheerful place +to look at from on board ship, but it is very far worse on +landing. The pier is nearly finished, and is a very creditable +piece of work indeed. It is of stone, and about 300 +yards long, and is wide enough for a double line of rails. +One line is already laid down, and saves an immensity of +labour; for the goods are landed from the native boats, +which bring them from the ship’s side, are put on to the +trucks, and are run straight into the commissariat yard, +which is fifty yards only from the end of the pier. Before +this pier was finished everything had to be carried on shore +upon the heads of the natives; and as a boat cannot approach +within 300 yards of shore, owing to the shallow water, it +may be imagined how slowly the work of debarcation went +on. The pier is ridiculously insufficient for the purpose. +Even now the ships are lying in the harbour for days, waiting +for means of landing their goods, although lines of natives +still supplement the pier, and pass bales of goods through +<pb n="39"/><anchor id="Pg039"/>the water on their heads. When the whole expedition is here +there will be a complete dead-lock, unless a very great increase +of landing accommodation is afforded. The commissariat +yard is piled with enormous quantities of pressed hay, +Indian and English, grain, rice, &c. They are well arranged, +and in such weather as we have at present there is +no fear of their taking damage from being exposed to the +air, especially as the precaution has been taken to have +trusses of pressed hay laid down as a foundation for the piles +of grain-bags. The commissariat yard is distinguished by the +fact that here only do we see women—bright-coloured, picturesquely-clad +creatures, a hundred of whom have been sent +across from India to serve as grinders of corn. Beside the +commissariat tents are a few others belonging to the other +departments, and these, with a large unfinished wooden storehouse, +at which a dozen Chinese carpenters are at work, constitute +the camp at the landing-place. But this is only a +small portion of the whole, the main camp being a mile and +a half inland; and, indeed, there are half-a-dozen small camps, +a cluster of tents scattered within the circle of a mile. +</p> + +<p> +The reason why the main camp was fixed at such an inconvenient +distance from the landing-place was, that water +was at first obtainable from wells sunk there. But this +supply has ceased some time, and it would be better to concentrate +the offices of the departments near the landing-place, +and that every soul whose presence down here is not +an absolute necessity should be sent up to Koomaylo, which +is fourteen miles inland, and which is the first place at which +water can be obtained. As it is, all living things, man and +beast, have to depend for their supply of water upon the +ships. Every steamer in harbour is at work night and day +<pb n="40"/><anchor id="Pg040"/>condensing water, the average expense being twopence-halfpenny +a gallon for the coal only. The result is of course +an enormous expense to the public, and very great suffering +among the animals. +</p> + +<p> +Leaving the camp, I proceeded to the watering-place, and +here my senses of sight and smell were offended as they +have not been since the days of the Crimea. Dead mules +and camels and oxen lay everywhere upon the shore, and +within a short distance of it. Here and there were heaps of +ashes and charred bones, where an attempt had been made +to burn the carcasses. Others, more lately dead, were surrounded +by vultures, who, gorged with flesh, hardly made an +effort to rise as we approached. One ox had fallen only a +few minutes before we reached it, and several vultures were +already eying it, walking round at a respectful distance, and +evidently not quite assured that the animal was dead. Here +and there half-starved mules wandered about, their heads +down, their ears drooping, and their eyes glazing with approaching +death. Some would stagger down to the sea-side, +and taste again and again the salt water; many of them, +half-maddened by thirst, would drink copiously, and either +drop dead where they stood, or crawl away to die in the low +scrub. +</p> + +<p> +More miserable still was the appearance of the camels. +Several native boats were unloading them at a distance of +two or three hundred yards from shore. The water was +not more than three or four feet deep; but when the poor +beasts were turned into it most of them lay down, with only +their heads above water, and positively refused to make an +effort to walk to land. Some never were able to make the +effort, and their bodies drifted here and there in the smooth +<pb n="41"/><anchor id="Pg041"/>water. Some of the camels had got within fifty yards of +shore, and then had lain down, looking, with their short +bodies and long necks, like gigantic water-fowl. Those who +had been driven ashore were in little better plight. Their +bones seemed on the very point of starting through their +skin, and they lay as if dead upon the sand, uttering feebly +the almost human moaning and complainings peculiar to the +camel. Others had recovered a little. These were endeavouring +to browse the scanty leaves on the bushes around. +Some of these camels have been twenty days on the voyage, +and during this time have been crowded together like sheep +in a pen, with next to nothing either to eat or drink during +the whole time. The wonder is that any of them survived it. +Government suffers no loss by the death of these unfortunates, +as a contractor agreed to deliver them here in a fair +condition, and only those who survive the voyage, and recover +something of their former strength, are accepted and paid for. +At least, this is one version of the story. The other is, that they +are consigned to the Land Transport Corps. That body, however, +receive no intimation of their coming, and boatload after +boatload of camels arrive, and wander away from the beach +to die for want of the water within their reach. At a mile +from the landing-place the scene is painful in the extreme. +Camels and mules wander about in hundreds without masters, +without anything. Here they strive for a few days’ +existence by plucking scanty shoots; here they sicken and +die. The scenes were frightful everywhere, but were worst +of all at the watering-troughs. These were miserably-contrived +things. Only ten or a dozen animals could approach +at once; they were so unevenly placed, that when one end +was full to overflowing there was not an inch of water at +<pb n="42"/><anchor id="Pg042"/>the other; and beside this, at a time when water was worth +its weight in gold, they leaked badly. They were only supplied +with water for an hour or so in the morning, and for +a similar time in the evening; and in consequence the scene +was painful in the extreme. There was a guard to preserve +order, but order could not have been kept by ten times as +many men. There were hundreds of transport animals, with +one driver to each five or six of them. What could one +driver do with six half-mad animals? They struggled, they +bit, they kicked, they fought like wild-beasts for a drink of +the precious water for which they were dying. Besides these +led animals were numerous stragglers, which, having broken +their head-ropes, had gone out into the plain to seek a living on +their own account. For these there was no water; they had +no requisition pinned to their ears, and as they failed thus +scandalously to comply with the regulations laid down by the +authorities, the authorities determined that they should have +no water. They were beaten off. Most of them, after a repulse +or two, went away with drooping heads to die; but +some fought for their dear lives, cleared a way to the trough +with heels and teeth, and drank despite the blows which +were showered upon them. I inquired of the Land Transport +Corps why these scattered mules are not collected and fed. +I am told that nearly the whole of these mule- and camel-drivers +have deserted and gone to Massowah. And so it is. +The mules and camels are dying of thirst and neglect; the +advanced brigade cannot be supplied with food; the harbour +is becoming full of transports, because there are no means of +taking the men inland, although there are plenty of animals; +and all this because the land transport men desert. The +officers of that corps work like slaves; they are up early and +<pb n="43"/><anchor id="Pg043"/>late, they saddle mules with their own hands, and yet everything +goes wrong. Why is all this? One reason undoubtedly +is, that the animals have been sent on before the men. +A few officers and a comparatively small body of native followers +are sent out, and to them arrive thousands of bullocks, +thousands of mules, thousands of camels. The Arab followers, +appalled by the amount of work accumulating upon them, +desert to a man, the officers are left helpless. Had a fair +number of officers and followers been sent on to receive the +animals as they came, all might have gone well. It was +simply a miscalculation. And so it is, I regret to say, in +some other departments. You apply for a tent, and are told +there are no bell-tents whatever arrived. You ask for a +pack-saddle, and are told by the quartermaster-general that +there is not a single pack-saddle in hand, and that hundreds +of mules are standing idle for want of them. You ask for +rations, and are informed that only native rations have yet +arrived, and that no rations for Europeans have been sent, +with the exception of the sixty days’ provisions the 33d regiment +have brought with them. Why is this? There are +scores of transports lying in Bombay harbour doing nothing. +Why, in the name of common sense, are they not sent on? +The nation is paying a very fair sum for them, and there +they lie, while the departments are pottering with their petty +jealousies and their petty squabbles. +</p> + +<p> +The fact is, we want a head here. Colonels Merewether +and Phayre have gone five days’ march away, taking with +them all the available transport. Brigadier-General Collings +only arrived yesterday, and of course has not as yet been +able to set things in order. I am happy to say that General +Staveley arrived last night, and I believe that he will soon +<pb n="44"/><anchor id="Pg044"/>bring some order into this chaos. The fact is, that in our +army we leave the most important branch of the service to +shift for itself. Unless the Land Transport Train is able to +perform its duty, nothing can possibly go right; but the Land +Transport Corps has no authority and no power. It is nobody’s +child. The commissariat owns it not, the quartermaster +and adjutant-general know nothing whatever of it. +It may shift for itself. All the <hi rend="italic">lâches</hi> of all the departments +are thrown upon its shoulders, and the captains who are +doing the work may slave night and day; but unaided and +unassisted they can do nothing. The land transport should +be a mere subordinate branch of the commissariat; that +department should be bound to supply food at any required +point. Now, all they have to do is to join the other departments +in drawing indents for conveyance upon the unhappy +land transport, and then sitting down and thanking +their gods that they have done everything which could be +expected of them. General Staveley is an energetic officer, +and will, I believe, lose no time in putting things straight. +Even to-day things look more hopeful, for General Collings +yesterday afternoon put the services of 200 Madras dhoolie-bearers +at the disposition of the Transport Corps to supply +the place of the mule- and camel-drivers who have deserted. +I have therefore every hope that in another week I shall +have a very different story to tell. In addition, however, +to the mortality caused by the voyage, by hardships, and by +bad food and insufficient water, there is a great mortality +among the horses and mules from an epidemic disease which +bears a strong resemblance to the cattle-plague. Ten or +twelve of the mules die a day from it, and the 3d Native +Cavalry lost ninety horses from it while they were here. The +<pb n="45"/><anchor id="Pg045"/>district is famous, or rather infamous, for this epidemic; and +the tribes from inland, when they come down into the plain, +always leave their horses on the plateau, and come down on +foot. The Soumalis and other native tribes along this shore +are a quarrelsome lot, and fights are constantly occurring +among the native workmen, who inflict serious, and sometimes +fatal, injuries upon each other with short, heavy clubs +resembling Australian waddies. The washing, at least such +washing as is done, is sent up to Koomaylo. Yesterday two +dhoolies, or washermen, were bringing a quantity of clothes +down to the camp, when they were set upon by some natives, +who killed one and knocked the other about terribly, and +then went off with the clothes. +</p> + +<p> +Some of the ships have brought down the horses in magnificent +condition. The Yorick, which has carried the horses +of the officers of the 33d, is a model of what a horse-ship +should be. The animals are ranged in stalls along the whole +length of her main-deck, and the width is so great that there +is room for a wide passage on either side of the mast. These +passages were laid down with cocoa-nut matting, and the +animals were taken out every day—except once when the +vessel rolled too much—and walked round and round for +exercise. In consequence they arrived in just as good condition +as they were in upon the day of starting. While I am +writing, the Great Victoria is signalled as in sight. This +vessel contains, it is said, the Snider rifles, the warm clothing, +the tents, and many other important necessaries. Her +arrival, therefore, will greatly smooth difficulties and enable +the troops to advance. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +At the time that the above letter was written I had only +<pb n="46"/><anchor id="Pg046"/>been a few hours upon shore, and was of course unable to +look deeper than the mere surface. I could therefore only +assign the most apparent reason for the complete break-down +of the transport train. The disaster has now become +historical, and rivalled, if it did not surpass, that of +the worst days of the Crimea; and as for a time it paralysed +the expedition, and exercised throughout a most disastrous +influence, it is as well, before we proceed up the +country, that we should examine thoroughly into its causes. +</p> + +<p> +After a searching inquiry into all that had taken place +prior to my arrival, I do not hesitate to ascribe the break-down +of the transport train to four causes, and in this +opinion I may say that I am thoroughly borne out by ninety-nine +out of every hundred officers who were there. The first +cause was the inherent weakness of the organisation of the +transport train, the ridiculous paucity of officers, both commissioned +and noncommissioned, the want of experienced +drivers, and the ignorance of everyone as to the working of +a mule-train. The second cause was the mismanagement +of the Bombay authorities in sending animals in one ship, +drivers in another, and equipments scattered throughout a +whole fleet of transports, instead of sending each shipload +of animals complete with their complement of drivers and +equipments, as was done by the Bengal authorities. The +third cause was the grossly-overcoloured reports of the officers +of the pioneer force as to the state of water and forage, +and which induced the Bombay authorities to hurry forward +men and animals, to find only a bare and waterless desert. +The fourth reason was the conduct of the above-mentioned +officers in marching with all the troops to Senafe, in +direct disobedience of the orders they had received. This last +<pb n="47"/><anchor id="Pg047"/>cause was the most fatal of all. In spite of the first three +causes all might, and I believe would, have gone tolerably +well, had it not been for the fourth. +</p> + +<p> +At Koomaylo and at Hadoda, each thirteen miles distant +from Zulla, there was water in abundance, together with +bushes and browsing-ground for the camels. Had the animals +upon landing been taken at once to these places, and +there allowed to remain until the time approached for a general +forward movement of the whole army, as Sir Robert +Napier had directed, everything would have gone well. The +officers would have had plenty of time to have effected a +thorough and perfect organisation; the men would have +learnt their new duties, and would have acquired some sort +of discipline; the camels could have gone to Zulla and +brought out forage for the mules; not an animal need have +remained at Zulla, not one have suffered from thirst; and +the immense expense of condensing water for them would +have been avoided, besides the saving of life of many thousands +of animals. But what happened? As I have shown +in the previous chapter, General Napier had said to Colonel +Merewether, in his parting instructions, <q>It is not at all +intended that this force shall take up a position upon the high +land, for which its strength and composition are not fitted;</q> +and again, he had written at the end of October, <q>that if +the news were satisfactory, Staveley’s Brigade would sail, +and <hi rend="italic">upon its arrival</hi> the advance may be made.</q> To Colonel +Phayre he had written October 9th: <q>It is not of course intended +that Colonel Field should move to the high table-land +at Dexan, &c., but shall merely take up such position as +will cover the dépôt and protect the cattle;</q> and again, in the +same letter: <q>You will understand that it is not my desire +<pb n="48"/><anchor id="Pg048"/>to precipitate a lodgment upon the table-land, which we +should have to retain too long before advancing.</q> General +Napier, then, had been as explicit as it was possible for a man +to be in his orders that no advance should take place; and +he had specially said, in his memorandum of 7th September, +the subject of the transport train, that <q>great care should be +taken to prevent their being overworked.</q> And yet, in spite +of these orders, Colonels Merewether and Phayre, together +with Colonel Wilkins,—to whom the making of piers, &c., had +been specially assigned by the General in his instructions +to the pioneer force,—with Colonel Field and the whole of +the troops, start up to Senafe on or about the 1st of December! +And this at a time when two or three large transports +might be expected to arrive daily! The consequences +which might have been expected ensued. The unfortunate +animals, the instant they arrived, were saddled, loaded, and +hurried off without a day to recover from the fatigue of the +voyage. The muleteers were in like way despatched, without +a single hour to acquire a notion of their duties. +</p> + +<p> +Senafe is five days’ march from Zulla, up a ravine of +almost unparalleled difficulty. +</p> + +<p> +Up and down this ravine the wretched animals stumbled +and toiled, starving when in the pass, and dying of thirst +during their brief pauses at Zulla; the fortunate ones dying +in scores upon the way, and the less happy ones incurring +disease of the lungs, which, after a few painful weeks, +brought them to the welcome grave. And all this to feed +Colonels Merewether and Phayre and the troops at Senafe. +<hi rend="italic">Cui bono?</hi> No one can answer. No one to this day has +been able to offer the slightest explanation of the extraordinary +course adopted by these officers. If Colonel +Mere<pb n="49"/><anchor id="Pg049"/>wether had felt it his duty to go to Senafe in order to enter +into political relations with the chiefs in the neighbourhood, +and to arrange for the purchase of animals and food, a small +escort would have enabled him to do so. Not only was their +absence disastrous to the mule-train, but it was productive of +the greatest confusion at Zulla. There no one was left in +command. Astounding as it may appear to every military +man, here, at a port at which an amount of work scarcely, +if ever, equalled, had to be got through, with troops, animals, +and stores arriving daily in vast quantities, there was at the +time of my arrival absolutely no <q>officer commanding,</q>—not +even a nominal head. Each head of department did his +best; but, like Hal o’ the Wynd, he fought for his own hand. +The confusion which resulted may be imagined but cannot be +described. Having thus briefly adverted to the causes which +led to the breakdown of the transport train, I continue my +journal. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Koomaylo, December 9th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Koomaylo, December 9th"/> +<dateline>Koomaylo, December 9th.</dateline> + +<p> +I mentioned in my letter of two days since, that the news +from the front was, that the King of Tigré, with an army of +7000 men, was inclined to make himself unpleasant. Our last +<q>shave,</q> that of yesterday, goes into the opposite extreme, +and tells us that the Kings of Shoa and Lasta have both +sent to Colonel Merewether, and have offered to attack Theodore. +The hostilities and the alliances of the kings of these +tribes are, of course, matters of importance; but as these +native potentates seldom know their own minds for many +hours together, and change from a state of friendship to one +of hostility at a moment’s notice, or for a fancied affront, I +do not attach much importance to any of them, with the +ex<pb n="50"/><anchor id="Pg050"/>ception of the King of Tigré, through whose dominions we +have to pass. If he allows us to pass to and fro without +interference, we can do very well without the alliance of Shoa +or of Lasta. We are strong enough to conquer Theodore, even +if he were backed by the three kings named; and now we +have got everything ready, the difference of expense between +a war of a few weeks’ duration and one of twice as many +months, will be comparatively trifling. As for the troops, +nothing would cause such disgust as to return without doing +anything, after all the preparations which have been made. +I do not think, however, that it would make much difference +in our movements now, even if the prisoners are given up. +Of course, had they been released a year ago, in consequence +of our entreaties or in exchange for our presents, we should +have been contented; but now we must demand something +more than a mere delivery of the prisoners. There is compensation +to be made for their long and painful sufferings, +and an attempt at any rate made to obtain some sort of +payment for our enormous expenses. I attach, therefore, +little importance to what is doing at Senafe, but consider +the state of the preparations at the landing-place at Annesley +Bay to be the central point of interest. For the last two +days much has been done towards getting things in order. +Pack-saddles in abundance have been landed. Sir Charles +Staveley has disembarked, and is hard at work; and in the +Land Transport Corps, in particular, great things have been +done. Captain Twentyman, who is in command, laid a number +of suggestions before the general, which he at once sanctioned. +Fodder was strewed near the watering-place, and as +the starving animals strayed down they were captured. One +hundred and fifty of them were handed over to the +Beloo<pb n="51"/><anchor id="Pg051"/>chee regiment, whose men cheerfully volunteered to look +after them. Tubs were obtained from the commissariat to +supplement the absurdly-insufficient troughs at the watering-place, +and which were only kept full of water at certain times +of the day. The 200 Madras dhoolie bearers, who have been +transferred to the transport, are doing good work, and there +is every hope that in another week things will be straight, +and the wretched stragglers who at present shock one with +their sufferings be again safely hobbled in line with other +animals. +</p> + +<p> +The work which the officers of this corps get through is +prodigious. Captains Twentyman, Warren, and Hodges, and +Lieutenant Daniels, are beginning to forget what a bed is +like, for they are at work and about for more than twenty +hours out of the twenty-four. Indeed, I must say that I +never saw a greater devotion to duty than is shown by the +officers of the various departments. The quartermaster’s department, +the commissariat, and others, vie with each other +in the energy which they exhibit, and the only thing to be +wished is that there were a little more unanimity in their +efforts. Each works for himself. Whereas if they were +only branches of an <hi rend="italic">intendance générale</hi>, the heads of the departments +might meet each other and their chief of an evening, +each state their wants and their wishes, concert together +as to the work to be performed next day, and then act with +a perfect knowledge of what was to be got through. However, +this is a Utopia which it is vain to sigh for. Probably +till the end of time we shall have separate departments and +divided responsibilities; and between the stools the British +soldier will continue to fall, and that very heavily, to the +ground. +</p> + +<pb n="52"/><anchor id="Pg052"/> + +<p> +On the afternoon of the 7th the first two companies of +the 33d regiment were to land; and this spectacle was +particularly interesting, as they were the first European regiment +to land upon the shores of Abyssinia. A large flat, +towed by a steam-barge, came alongside, and the men, with +their kit-bags and beds, embarked on board them. As they +did so, the regimental band struck up, the men and their +comrades on board ship cheering heartily. It was very +exciting, and made one’s blood dance in one’s veins; but to +me there is always something saddening in these spectacles. +This is the third <q><hi rend="italic">Partant pour la Syrie</hi></q> that I have seen. +I witnessed the Guards parade before Buckingham Palace. +I saw them cheer wildly as the band played and the Queen +waved her handkerchief to them; and six months afterwards +I saw them, a shattered relic of a regiment, in the Crimea. +Last year I described a scene in Piacenza, on the eve of the +march of the Italian army into the Quadrilateral. There, +too, were patriotic songs and hearty cheerings, there were +high hopes and brave hearts. A week after I saw them +hurled back again from the land they had invaded, defeated +by a foe they almost despised. Fortunately, in the present +case I have no similar catastrophe to anticipate. As far as +fighting goes, her Majesty’s 33d regiment need fear nothing +they will meet in Abyssinia, or, indeed, in any part of the +world. It is a regiment of veterans; it won no slight glory +in the Crimea, and a few months later it was hurried off +to aid in crushing the Indian mutiny. In India they have +been ever since, and are as fine and soldierlike a set of men +as could be found in the British army. We were to have +landed at two o’clock, but a few of the little things which always +are found to be done at the last moment delayed us half +<pb n="53"/><anchor id="Pg053"/>an hour; and that delay of half an hour completely changed +the whole plans of the day. It had been intended that, after +landing, the men should remain quiet until five o’clock, by +which time the heat of the day would be over; that they +should then pack the baggage upon the camels, which were +to start at once with a guard, that the men should lie down +and sleep till midnight, and that they should then march, so +as to arrive at Koomaylo at five o’clock in the morning. All +these arrangements, admirable in their way, were defeated by +this little half-hour’s delay. There was not a breath of wind +when we left the ship, but in the quarter of an hour the passage +occupied the sea-breeze rushed down, and when we reached +the pier the waves were already breaking heavily. Time +after time the man-of-war’s boats came to us as we lay thirty +yards off, and took off a load each time; once, too, we drifted +so close to the end of the pier that the men were able to leap +off upon the rough stones. In this way all the troops got off +except the baggage-guard. But by this time the surf had +increased so much, that the boats could no longer get alongside; +accordingly the tug had to tow the barge a couple of +hundred yards out, and there to remain until the sea-breeze +dropped. In consequence it was nine in the evening before +the baggage got ashore, and nearly one in the morning before +the camels had their loads; and even then some of the men’s +beds had to be left behind. Considering the extreme lateness +of the hour, and the fact that the moon would soon be down, +I thought it best to get a sleep until daylight. Under the +shelter of a friendly tent I lay down upon the sand until five +o’clock, and then, after the slight toilet of a shake to get rid +of loose sand, I started. +</p> + +<p> +The road from Annesley Bay to Koomaylo can hardly be +<pb n="54"/><anchor id="Pg054"/>termed either interesting or strongly defined. It at first goes +straight across the sand, and, as the sand is trampled everywhere, +it is simply impossible to follow it. We were told +that the route lay due west, but that just where the jungle +began there was a sign-post. Compass in hand, we steered +west, and entered the low thorny scrub which constitutes the +jungle. No sign-post. We rode on for a mile, when, looking +back at the rising sun, I saw something like a sign-post in the +extreme distance. Riding back to it, it proved to be the desired +guide, and the road from here is by daylight distinct +enough. For the first six miles it runs across a dead-level +of sand, covered with a shrub with very small and very scanty +leaves, and very large and extremely-abundant thorns. Bustards, +grouse, deer, and other game are said to be very abundant +here, but we saw none of them. A sort of large hawk +was very numerous, but these were the only birds we saw. +At about six miles from the sea the ground rises abruptly +for about ten feet in height, and this rise ran north and south +as far as the eye could reach. It marked unquestionably +the level of the sea at some not very remote period. From +this point the plain continued flat, sandy, and bushy as before +for two miles; but after that a rocky crag rose, rather to our +right, and the sand became interspersed with stones and boulders. +Our path lay round behind the hill, and then we could +see, at about four miles’ distance, a white tent or two, at the +mouth of an opening in the mountain before us. These white +tents were the camp at Koomaylo. About three miles from +Koomaylo we came upon a very curious burial-place. It was +in a low flat, close to a gully, and covered a space of perhaps +fifty yards square. The graves were placed very close +together, and consisted of square piles of stones, not thrown +<pb n="55"/><anchor id="Pg055"/>together, but built up, about three feet square and as much +high. They were crowned by a rough pyramid of stones, the +top one being generally white. Underneath these stone +piles was a sort of vault. From this point the ground rose +more steeply than it had yet done. +</p> + +<p> +Koomaylo is situated at the mouth of the pass which +takes its name from it. The valley here is about half-a-mile +wide. It is rather over thirteen miles from the sea, and is +said to be 415 feet above the sea-level; but it does not appear +to be nearly so high. At any rate, its height does not +make it any cooler; for, hot as it is at Annesley Bay, it is +at least as hot here. The greatest nuisance I have at present +met with in Abyssinia are the flies, which are as numerous +and irritating as they are in Egypt. Fortunately they go to +sleep when the sun goes down; and as there are no mosquitoes +to take their place, one is able to sleep in tranquillity. +We found on arriving at Koomaylo that the troops had +not been in very long. They had got scattered in the night, +owing to some of the camels breaking down; had lost their +guides, lost each other, and lost the way. Finally, however, all +the troops came in in a body under their officers at about eight +o’clock. The animals were not quite so unanimous in their +movements; for a number of them took quite the wrong road, +and went to Hadoda, a place about six miles from here, to +the north, and twelve miles from Zulla. There are wells +there, so they got a drink, and came on in the course of the +day. A few, however, have not yet turned up, and one of +these missing animals bore a portion of my own luggage +and stores. The others will perhaps arrive; but I have a +moral conviction that that animal will never again make his +appearance. As the men were too tired upon their arrival +<pb n="56"/><anchor id="Pg056"/>to pitch their tents, many of which indeed had not yet +arrived, they were allowed to take possession of a number +of tents which had been pitched for head-quarters. When we +arrived they were all shaken down; the men were asleep in +the tents, and the camels had gone down to water. The first +step was to go down to water our horses and mules, the next +to draw rations for ourselves, our followers, and beasts. The +watering-place is a quarter of a mile from this camp, which +is on rather rising ground. The wells are, of course, in the +bed of what in the rainy season must be a mighty torrent fifty +yards wide. +</p> + +<p> +I have seen many singular scenes, but I do not know +that I ever saw a stranger one than these wells presented. +They are six in number, are twelve or fourteen feet across, +and about twelve feet deep. They are dug through the mass +of stones and boulders which forms the bed of the stream, +and three of the six have a sort of wooden platform, upon +which men stand to lower the buckets to the water by ropes. +The other wells have sloping sides, and upon them stand +sets of natives, who pass buckets from hand to hand, and +empty them into earth troughs, or rather mud basins, from +which the animals drink. The natives while so engaged keep +up the perpetual chant without which they seem to be unable +to do any work. The words of this chant vary infinitely, and +they consist almost always of two words of four or five syllables +in all; which are repeated by the next set of men, with +the variation of one of the syllables, and in a tone two notes +lower than that used by the first set. Round these wells are +congregated a vast crowd of animals—flocks of goats and small +sheep, hundreds in number, strings of draught-bullocks, mules, +ponies, horses, and camels, hundreds of natives, with their +<pb n="57"/><anchor id="Pg057"/>scanty attire, their spears, their swords exactly resembling +reaping-hooks, and their heavy clubs. Here are their wives +and sisters, some of them in the ordinary draped calico, others +very picturesquely attired in leathern petticoats, and a body-dress +of a sort of sheet of leather, going over one shoulder and +under the other arm, covering the bust, and very prettily ornamented +with stars and other devices, formed of white shells. +Round their necks they wear necklaces of red seeds and shells. +Some of them are really very good-looking, with remarkably +intelligent faces. The scene round the wells is very exciting, +for the animals press forward most eagerly, and their attendants +have the greatest difficulty in preserving order, especially +among the mules and camels. The supply, however, is equal +to the demand, and by the end of the day the wells are nearly +deserted, except by the soldiers, who like to go down and +draw their water fresh from the wells. The upper wells, +where buckets with ropes only are used, are really very fair +water; those for the animals are not clear, but are still drinkable. +All have a taste somewhat resembling the water from +peat-bogs. Natives are employed digging more wells, which +can be done, for the quantity which is drawn appears to make +little or no difference in the level of the water in the present +wells. Some of the camels occasionally get quite furious; to-day +I saw one, whose saddle had slipped round under its belly, +begin to jump and plunge most wildly, with its head in the +air, and uttering the most uncouth cries. There was a general +stampede, especially among the mules, many of whom have, +I fancy, never seen a camel before. It was some minutes +before the animal could be caught and forced down upon its +knees by its driver, and by that time he had quite cleared the +ground in his neighbourhood. The camels are kept as much +<pb n="58"/><anchor id="Pg058"/>as possible kneeling, and there were a hundred or two near +him at the time he commenced his evolutions. When one +camel rises, all in his neighbourhood always endeavour to do +the same; and the efforts of these beasts to rise, the shouts of +their drivers, and the stampede of the mules, made up a most +laughable scene. Near the wells is another large graveyard; +the tombs here are rather more ornate than those I have already +described, some of them being round, and almost all +having courses of white quartz stones. Upon the top of many +of these tombs are two or three flat stones, placed on end, and +somewhat resembling small head- and foot-stones. As there +is no inscription upon them it would be curious to find out the +object with which the natives erect them. +</p> + +<p> +Having finished watering our horses, we proceeded to +the commissariat tent. Here an immense quantity of work +is got through, all the animals and men drawing their +rations daily; and I have heard no complaint of any sort, +except that some Parsees, while I was getting my rations, +came up and complained bitterly because there was no +mutton, and it was contrary to their religion to eat beef. +The commissariat officer regretted the circumstance, but +pointed out that at present no sheep had been landed, and +that the little things of the country are mere skin and bone, +and quite unfitted for the troops. The Parsees, who were, I +believe, clerks to one of the departments, went off highly +discontented. The moral of this evidently is that Parsees +should not go to war in a country where mutton is scarce. +As for the Hindoos, I cannot even guess how they will +preserve their caste intact. It is a pity that their priests +could not give them a dispensation to put aside all their +caste observances for the time they may be out of India. +<pb n="59"/><anchor id="Pg059"/>As it is, I foresee we shall have very great difficulty with +them. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Koomaylo, December 12th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Koomaylo, December 12th"/> + +<dateline>Koomaylo, December 12th.</dateline> + +<p> +When I wrote two days ago I hardly expected to have +dated another letter from Koomaylo. I had prepared to +start for Senafe, leaving my baggage behind me, and returning +in ten days or so. The great objection to this plan +was that neither at Zulla nor here are there any huts or +stores where things can be left. The only thing to be done, +therefore, was to leave them in the tent of some friend; +but as he, too, might get the route at any moment, it would +have been, to say the least of it, a very hazardous proceeding. +The night before last, however, I received the joyful +and long-expected news that the ship which had left +Bombay with my horses six days before I started myself +was at last in harbour. My course was now clear; I +should go down, get my horses, and then go up to Senafe, +carrying my whole baggage with me. Vessels and troops +are arriving every day, and the accumulations of arrears +of work are increasing in even more rapid proportion. +Major Baigrie, the quartermaster-general, is indefatigable, +but he cannot unload thirty large vessels at one little +jetty, at whose extremity there is only a depth of five feet +of water. Unless something is done, and that rapidly, +and upon an extensive scale, we shall break down altogether. +It is evident that a jetty, at which at most three of these +country boats can lie alongside to unload, is only sufficient +to afford accommodation for one large ship, and that it +would take several days to discharge her cargo of say one +thousand tons, using the greatest despatch possible. How, +<pb n="60"/><anchor id="Pg060"/>then, can it be hoped that the vessels in the harbour, +whose number is increasing at the rate of two or three +a-day, are to be unloaded? In the Crimea great distress +was caused because the ships in Balaclava harbour could not +manage to discharge their stores. But Balaclava harbour +offered facilities for unloading which were enormous compared +to this place. There was a wharf a quarter of a mile +long, with deep water alongside, so that goods could be +rolled down planks or gangways to the shore from the +vessels. The harbour was land-locked, and the work of unloading +never interrupted. Compare that with the present +state of things. A boat-jetty running out into five-foot +water, and only approachable for half the day owing to the +surf, and, as I hear, for months not approachable at all. It +can be mathematically proved that the quantity of provision +and forage which can be landed from these boats, +always alongside for so many hours a-day, would not supply +the fifth of the wants of twenty-five thousand men and +as many animals. Everything depends upon what the state +of the interior of the country is. If we find sufficient +forage for the animals and food for the men—which the +most sanguine man does not anticipate—well and good. +If not, we must break down. It is simply out of the question +to land the stores with the present arrangements in +Annesley Bay, or with anything like them. The pier-accommodation +must be greatly increased, and must be made +practical in all weather, that is to say, practical all day in +ordinary weather. To do this the pier should be run out +another fifty yards, and should then have a cross-pier erected +at its extremity. The native boats could lie under the +lee of this and unload in all weathers, and there would +<pb n="61"/><anchor id="Pg061"/>be sufficient depth of water for the smaller transports to +lie alongside on the outside in calm weather, and to unload +direct on to the pier. I know that this would be an expensive +business, that stone has to be brought from a distance, +&c. But it is a necessity, and therefore expense is +no object. I consider that the railway which is to be laid +between the landing-place and this point will be of immense +utility to the expedition; but I believe it to be a work of quite +inferior importance in comparison with this question of increased +pier-accommodation. There is no doubt that in +spite of the troops and animals arriving from Bombay before +things were ready for them here, things would have +gone on far better than they have done, had there been +any head to direct operations here. But the officers of +the various departments have been working night and day +without any head whatever to give unity and object to +their efforts. I understand that General Staveley was astonished +to find that before the arrival of General Collings, +two days previous to himself, there had been no head to +the expedition. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +Sir Robert Napier was fully alive to the extreme importance +of this question of wharfage, for in his memorandum +of September 12th he recommended that planking, +tressles, piles, and materials to construct wharves should be +forwarded with the 1st Brigade. <q>There cannot,</q> he proceeded, +<q>be too many landing-places to facilitate debarkation, +and on such convenience will depend the boats being +quickly cleared, and the stores removed from them dry. It +would be advisable that a considerable number of empty +casks should be forwarded to be used as rafts, or to form +<pb n="62"/><anchor id="Pg062"/>floating-wharves for use at low water, particularly should +the shores shelve gently. Spars to form floating shears +should also be forwarded.</q> Thus Sir Robert Napier, himself +an engineer, had long before foreseen the extreme importance +of providing the greatest possible amount of landing +accommodation; and yet three months after this memorandum +was written, and two months after the arrival of the pioneer +force at Zulla, an unfinished pier was all that had +been effected, and Colonel Wilkins, the officer to whom +this most important work had been specially intrusted, was +quietly staying up at Senafe with Colonels Merewether, Phayre, +and Field. A second pier was not completed until the end +of February, and consequently many vessels remained for +months in harbour before their cargoes could be unloaded, +at an expense and loss to the public service which can hardly +be over-estimated. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +We had quite a small excitement here this afternoon. I +was writing quietly, and thinking what a hot day it was, +when I heard a number of the soldiers running and shouting. +I rushed to the door of my tent and saw a troop of very large +monkeys trotting along, pursued by the men, who were +throwing stones at them. Visions of monkey-skins flashed +across my mind, and in a moment, snatching up revolvers +and sun-helmets, three or four of us joined the chase. We +knew from the first that it was perfectly hopeless, for the +animals were safe in the hills, which extended for miles. +However, the men scattered over the hills, shouting and +laughing, and so we went on also, and for a couple of hours +climbed steadily on, scratching ourselves terribly with the +thorn-bushes which grow everywhere—and to which an +<pb n="63"/><anchor id="Pg063"/>English quickset-hedge is as nothing—and losing many +pounds in weight from the effect of our exertions. Hot as +it was, I think that the climb did us all good. Indeed, the +state of the health of everyone out here is most excellent, and +the terrible fevers and all the nameless horrors with which +the army was threatened in its march across the low ground, +turn out to be the effect of the imagination only of the well-intentioned +but mischievous busybodies who have for the last +six months filled the press with their most dismal predictions. +I have heard many a hearty laugh since I have been here +at all the evils we were threatened would assail us in the +thirteen miles between Annesley Bay and this place. We +were to die of fever, malaria, sunstroke, tetse-fly, Guinea-worm, +tapeworm, and many other maladies. It is now +nearly three months since the first man landed, and upon +this very plain there are at present thousands of men, including +the Beloochee regiment and other natives, hundreds, +taking Europeans only, of officers, staff and departmental, with +the conductors, inspectors, and men of the transport, commissariat, +and other departments. From the day of the first +landing to the present time there has not been one death, or +even an illness of any consequence, among all these men +upon this plain of death. As for the two companies of the +33d, their surgeon tells me that the general state of their +health is better than in India, for that there has not been +a single case of fever or indisposition of any kind in the five +days since they landed, whereas in India there were always a +proportion of men in hospital with slight attacks of fever. +All this is most gratifying, and I believe that all the other +dangers and difficulties will, when confronted, prove to have +been equally exaggerated. The difficulties of the pass to the +<pb n="64"/><anchor id="Pg064"/>first plateau, 7000 feet above the sea, have already proved to +be insignificant. There are only four miles of at all difficult +ground, and this has already been greatly obviated by the +efforts of the Bombay Sappers. The December rains have +not yet begun, but yesterday and to-day we have heavy +clouds hanging over the tops of the mountains. The rain +would be a very great boon, and would quite alter the whole +aspect of the country. The whole country, indeed, when not +trampled upon, is covered with dry, burnt-up herbage, presenting +exactly the colour of the sand, but which only needs +a few hours’ rain to convert it into a green plain of grass, sufficient +for the forage of all the baggage-animals in the camp. +</p> + +<p> +While I have been writing this the Beloochees and a company +of Bombay Sappers and Miners have marched into camp, +with their baggage and camels. The Beloochees are a splendid +regiment—tall, active, serviceable-looking men as ever +I saw. Their dress is a dark-green tunic, with scarlet facings +and frogs, trousers of a lighter green, a scarlet cap, with a +large black turban around it; altogether a very picturesque +dress. The Sappers and Miners are in British uniform. +Both these corps go on early to-morrow morning to Upper +Sooro. I have not decided yet whether I shall accompany +them, or go on by myself this evening. +</p> + +<p> +A letter has just come down from Colonel Merewether +saying that all is going on well at Senafe. The King of +Tigré has sent in his adhesion, and numbers of petty chiefs +came in riding on mules, and followed by half-a-dozen ragged +followers on foot, to make their <q>salaam.</q> I do not know +that these petty chiefs, who are subjects of the King of Tigré, +are of much importance one way or another, but their friendship +would be useful if they would bring in a few hundred +<pb n="65"/><anchor id="Pg065"/>head of bullocks and a few flocks of sheep. It is, I understand, +very cold up there, and the troops will have need of +all their warm clothing. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Upper Sooro, December 13th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Upper Sooro, December 13th"/> + +<dateline>Upper Sooro, December 13th.</dateline> + +<p> +I must begin my letter by retracting an opinion I expressed +in my last, namely, that the defile would probably +turn out a complete bugbear, as the fevers, guinea-worm, and +tetse flies have done. My acquaintance with most of the +passes of the Alps and Tyrol is of an extensive kind, but I +confess that it in no way prepared me for the passage of an +Abyssinian defile. I can now quite understand travellers +warning us that many of these places were impracticable for +a single horseman, much less for an army with its baggage-animals. +Had not Colonel Merewether stated in his report +that the first time he explored the pass he met laden bullocks +coming down it, I should not have conceived it possible that +any beast of burden could have scrambled over the terrible +obstacles. Even now, when the Bombay Sappers have been +at work for three weeks upon it, it is the roughest piece of +road I ever saw, and only practicable for a single animal at +once. It is in all twelve miles; at least, so it is said by the +engineers, and we took, working hard, seven hours to do it; +and I found that this was a very fair average time. A single +horseman will, of course, do it in a very much shorter time, +because there are miles together where a horse might gallop +without danger. I remained at Koomaylo until the afternoon, +as it was too hot to start till the sun was low. Nothing +happened during the day, except the arrival of the +Beloochees and Bombay Engineers. The soldiers had two or +<pb n="66"/><anchor id="Pg066"/>three more chases after the monkeys, of which there are extra +ordinary numbers. I need hardly say that they did not catch +any of them: a dog, however, belonging to one of the soldiers +seized one for a moment, but was attacked with such fury by +his companions that it had to leave its hold and beat a precipitate +retreat. I have just been watching a flock or herd—I +do not know which is the correct term—of these animals, +two or three hundred in number, who have passed along the +rocks behind my tent, at perhaps thirty yards’ distance. +They have not the slightest fear of man, and even all the +noise and bustle of a camp seem to amuse rather than alarm +them. They are of all sizes, from the full-grown, which are +as large as a large dog, down to tiny things which keep close +to their mothers, and cling round their necks at the least +alarm. The old ones make no noise, but step deliberately +from rock to rock, sitting down frequently to inspect the +camp, and indulge in the pleasure of a slight scratch. These +full-sized fellows have extremely long hair over the head and +upper part of the body, but are bare, disagreeably so, towards +the caudal extremity. The small ones scamper along, chattering +and screaming; they have no mane or long hair on +the head. The old monkeys, when they do make a sound, +bark just like a large dog. In the afternoon an enormous +number of locusts came down the pass, and afforded amusement +and diet to flocks of birds, who were, I observed, rather +epicures in their way, for on picking up many of the dead +bodies of the locusts, I found that in every case it was only +the head and upper part of the thorax which had been eaten. +I shall accept this as a hint; and in case of the starvation +days with which this expedition is threatened—in addition to +innumerable other evils—really coming on, I shall, when we +<pb n="67"/><anchor id="Pg067"/>are driven to feed on locusts, eat only the parts which the +birds have pointed out to me as the tit-bits. I am happy to +say that there is no probability of our being driven to that +resource at present; for on our way here yesterday I passed +considerable quantities of native cattle, and any quantity is +procurable here, and as for goats they are innumerable. We +bought one this morning for our servants for the sum of a +rupee. The commissariat have made up their minds that all +servants and followers must be Hindoos, and therefore abstainers +from meat, and so issue no meat whatever in their +rations—nothing, indeed, except rice, grain, a little flour, +and a little ghee. Now, the fact is that the followers are +generally not Hindoos. Many of the body-servants are +Portuguese, Goa men; and the horse-keepers are frequently +Mussulmans, or come from the north-west provinces, where +they are not particular. Even the mule-drivers are Arabs, +Egyptians, and Patans, all of whom eat flesh. It thus happens +that the whole of our five servants are meat-eaters, and +it is fortunate that we are able to buy meat from the natives +for them, especially as they have really hard work to do; and +in the cold climate we shall enter in another day or two meat +is doubly necessary. +</p> + +<p> +We had intended to start at three o’clock, but it was four +before our baggage was fairly disposed upon the backs of the +four baggage-animals—two strong mules and two ponies—and +we were in the saddles of our riding-horses. Our route, +after leaving the wells, ran, with of course various turnings +and windings, in a south-westerly direction. The way lay +along the bottom of the valley, a road being marked out by +the loose stones being removed to a certain extent, and laid +along both sides of the track. The valley for the first seven +<pb n="68"/><anchor id="Pg068"/>or eight miles was very regular, of a width of from 200 to +300 yards. Its bottom, though really rising gradually, appeared +to the eye a perfect flat of sand, scattered with boulders +and stones, and covered with the thorny jungle I have +spoken of in a previous letter. This scrub had been cleared +away along the line of road, or there would have been very +little flesh, to say nothing of clothes, left upon our bones by +the time we came to our journey’s end. Backward and forward, +across the sandy plain, as the spurs of the hills turned +its course, wound the bed of the torrent—I should think that +we crossed it fifty times. It is probable that on occasions of +great floods the whole valley is under water. To our left the +hills, though rocky and steep, sloped somewhat gradually, and +were everywhere sprinkled with bushes. On the right the +mountain was much more lofty, and rose in many places +very precipitously. Sometimes the valley widened somewhat, +at other times the mountains closed in, and we seemed +to have arrived at the end of our journey, until on rounding +some projecting spur the valley would appear stretching away +at its accustomed width. Altogether, the scenery reminded +me very much of the Tyrol, except that the hills at our side +were not equal in height to those which generally border the +valleys there. +</p> + +<p> +At half-past six it had become so dark that we could no +longer follow the track, and the animals were continually +stumbling over the loose stones, and we were obliged to halt +for half-an-hour, by which time the moon had risen over the +plain; and although it was some time longer before she was +high enough to look down over the hill-tops into our valley, +yet there was quite light enough for us to pursue our way. +In another three-quarters of an hour we came upon a sight +<pb n="69"/><anchor id="Pg069"/>which has not greeted my eyes since I left England, excepting, +of course, in my journey through France—it was running +water. We all knelt down and had a drink, but, +curiously enough, although our animals had been travelling +for nearly four hours enveloped in a cloud of light dust, they +one and all refused to drink; indeed, I question if they had +ever seen running water before, and had an idea it was something +uncanny. This place we knew was Lower Sooro, not +that there was any village—indeed, I begin to question the +existence of villages in this part of the world, for I have not +yet seen a single native permanent hut, only bowers constructed +of the boughs of trees and bushes. But in Abyssinia +it is not villages which bear names; it is wells. Zulla, and +Koomaylo, the Upper and Lower Sooro, are not villages, but +wells. Natives come and go, and build their bowers, but they +do not live there. I fancy that when there is a native name, +and no well, it is a graveyard which gives the name. We +passed two or three of these between Koomaylo and Sooro, all +similar to those I have already described. From Lower to +Upper Sooro is a distance of four miles. It is in this portion +of the road that the real difficulties of the pass are situated, +and I never passed through a succession of such narrow and +precipitous gorges as it contains. The sides of these gorges +are in many places perfectly perpendicular, and the scenery, +although not very lofty, is yet wild and grand in the extreme, +and seen, as we saw it, with the bright light and deep shadows +thrown by the full moon, it was one of the most impressive +pieces of scenery I ever saw. The difficulty of the +pass consists not in its steepness, for the rise is little over +three hundred feet in a mile, but in the mass of huge boulders +which strew its bottom. Throughout its length, indeed, the +<pb n="70"/><anchor id="Pg070"/>path winds its way in and out and over a chaos of immense +stones, which look as if they had but just fallen from the +almost overhanging sides of the ravine. Some of these +masses are as large as a good-sized house, with barely room +between them for a mule to pass with his burden. In many +places, indeed, there was not room at all until the Bombay +Sappers, who are encamped about half-way up the pass, set +to work to make it practicable by blasting away projecting +edges, and in some slight way smoothing the path among the +smaller rocks. In some places great dams have been formed +right across the ravine, owing to two or three monster boulders +having blocked the course of the stream, and from the +accumulated rocks which the winter torrents have swept +down upon them. Upon these great obstacles nothing less +than an army of sappers could make any impression, and +here the engineers have contented themselves by building a +road up to the top of the dam and down again the other side. +We were three hours making this four-mile passage, and the +labour, the shouting, and the difficulties of the way, must be +imagined. Of course we had dismounted, and had given our +horses to their grooms to lead. Constantly the baggage was +shifting, and required a pause and a readjustment. Now our +tin pails would bang with a clash against a rock one side; +now our case of brandy—taken for purely medicinal purposes—would +bump against a projection on the other. Now one +of the ponies would stumble, and the other nearly come upon +him; now one of the mules, in quickening his pace to charge +a steep ascent, would nearly pull the one which was following, +and attached to him, off his feet; then there would be a fresh +alarm that the ponies’ baggage was coming off. All this was +repeated over and over again. There were shouts in English, +<pb n="71"/><anchor id="Pg071"/>Hindostanee, Arabic, and in other and unknown tongues. +Altogether it was the most fatiguing four miles I have ever +passed, and we were all regularly done when we got to the +top. I should say that the water had all this time tossed and +fretted between the rocks, sometimes hidden beneath them for +a hundred yards, then crossing and recrossing our path, or +running directly under our feet, until we were within a few +hundred yards of Upper Sooro, when the ravine widening out, +and the bottom being sandy, the stream no longer runs above +the surface. Altogether it was a ride to be long remembered, +through that lonely valley by moonlight in an utterly unknown +and somewhat hostile country, as several attempts at robbery +have been made by the natives lately upon small parties; and +although in no case have they attacked a European, yet +everyone rides with his loaded revolver in his holster. A +deep silence seemed to hang over everything, broken only by +our own voices, except by the occasional thrill of a cicada +among the bushes, the call of a night-bird, or by the whining +of a jackal, or the hoarse bark of a monkey on the hills +above. +</p> + +<p> +It was just eleven o’clock when we arrived at Upper Sooro. +An officer at once came to the door of his tent, and with that +hospitality which is universal, asked us to come in and sit +while our tent was being pitched. We accepted, and he +opened for us a bottle of beer, cool, and in excellent condition. +Imagine our feelings. Brandy-and-water would have +been true hospitality, but beer, where beer is so scarce and so +precious as it is here, was a deed which deserves to be recorded +in letters of gold. I forbear to name our benefactor. +The Samaritan’s name has not descended to us; the widow +who bestowed the mite is nameless. Let it be so in the +pre<pb n="72"/><anchor id="Pg072"/>sent case. But I shall never cease to think of that bottle of +beer with gratitude. +</p> + +<p> +My tent was now pitched; my servant procured some hot +water and made some tea; and having taken that and some +biscuit, and having seen that the horses were fed, I slightly +undressed, lay down upon my <sic>water-proof</sic> sheet, and lighted +a final cigar, when to my horror I observed many creeping +things advancing over the sheet towards me. Upon +examination they turned out to be of two species—the one a +large red ant, the other a sort of tick, which I found on inquiring +in the morning are camel-ticks. They are a lead +colour, and about the size of sheep-ticks, but they do not run +so fast. This was, indeed, a calamity, but there was nothing +to be done. I was far too tired to get up and have my tent +pitched in another place; besides, another place might have +been just as bad. I therefore wrapped myself as tightly as I +could in my rug, in hopes that they would not find their way +in, and so went to sleep. In the morning I rejoiced greatly to +find that I had not been bitten; for they bite horses and men, +raising a bump as big as a man’s fist upon the former, and +causing great pain and swelling to the latter. +</p> + +<p> +I describe thus minutely the events of every day, because +the life of most officers and men greatly resembles my own, +and by relating my own experience I give a far more accurate +idea of the sort of life we are leading in Abyssinia than I could +do by any general statements. +</p> + +<p> +Upper Sooro is a large commissariat dépôt, exceedingly +well managed by Conductor Crow. It is a new basin of five +hundred yards long by two hundred across, a widening out +of the pass. It is selected for that reason, as it is the only +place along the line near water where a regiment could +en<pb n="73"/><anchor id="Pg073"/>camp. Owing to its elevation above the sea the temperature +is very pleasant, except for two or three hours in the middle +of the day. Another agreeable change is that the thorny +bushes have disappeared, and a tree without prickles, and +which attains a considerable size, has taken their place. +</p> + +<p> +At seven o’clock this morning the Beloochees began to +arrive, having started at midnight. The advanced guard +were therefore exactly the same time doing the distance that +we were. Their baggage, however, has been dropping in all +day, for it was loaded on camels, and most of these animals +stuck fast in the narrow passages of the pass, and had to be +unloaded to enable them to get through; and this happened +again and again. The pass, in fact, is not, as yet, practicable +for camels; mules can manage it, but it is a very close fit for +them, and it will be some time yet before camels can pass with +their burdens. I suppose after to-day’s experience camels will +not be again employed this side of Koomaylo until the pass +has been widened. Some of the poor animals were stuck fast +for a couple of hours before they could be extricated. There +are now a hundred of them lying down within fifty yards of +my tent. I consider the camel to be the most ridiculously-overpraised +animal under the sun. I do not deny that he +has his virtues. He is moderately strong—not very strong for +his size, for he will not carry so much as a couple of good +mules; still he is fairly strong, and he can go a long time +without water—a very useful quality in the desert, or on the +sea-shore of Abyssinia. But patient! Heaven save the mark! +He is without exception the most cantankerous animal under +the sun. When he is wanted to stand up, he lies down; when +he is wanted to lie down, he will not do it on any consideration; +and once down he jumps up again the moment his driver’s +<pb n="74"/><anchor id="Pg074"/>back is turned. He grumbles, and growls, and roars at any +order he receives, whether to stand up or lie down; whether +to be loaded or to have his packs taken off. When he is once +loaded and in motion he goes on quietly enough; but so does +a horse, or a donkey, or any other animal. After having +made himself as disagreeable as possible, there is small praise +to him that he goes on when he cannot help it. I consider the +mule, which people have most wrongfully named obstinate, to +be a superior animal in every respect—except that he wants +his drink—to the much-bepraised camel. +</p> + +<p> +A messenger passed through here yesterday from Abyssinia. +He was bringing letters from Mr. Rassam to Colonel +Merewether. He reports that Theodore is continuing his +cruelties, and killing his soldiers in numbers. Under these +circumstances one can hardly feel surprised at the news that, +in spite of his efforts, he is unable to increase his army beyond +seven or eight thousand men. He is still at Debra Tabor. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Camp, Senafe, December 16th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Camp, Senafe, December 16th"/> + +<dateline>Camp, Senafe, December 16th.</dateline> + +<p> +I arrived here only half-an-hour since, and find that the +post is on the point of starting. I therefore have only time to +write a few lines to supplement my last letter, which was sent +from Sooro. All description of the pass between that resting-place +and Senafe I must postpone to my next letter, and only +write to say that there is no particular news here. The messenger +from Mr. Rassam arrived in the camp yesterday. He +states that the King of Shoa’s men are between Theodore and +Magdala, and that there is every hope that they will take the +latter place, and liberate the prisoners. The reports about the +King of Tigré are, to a certain extent, founded on fact. He +<pb n="75"/><anchor id="Pg075"/>has professed the greatest friendship, but there are sinister +reports that he really means mischief, and for two or three +days the pickets have been doubled. It is not thought that +there is any foundation for the report of his intention to attack +us. The situation of this camp is very pleasant—upon a lofty +table-land, seven thousand feet above the sea, and with a delightfully +bracing wind blowing over it, and reminding one of +Brighton Downs in the month of May. At night I am told +that the thermometer goes down below freezing-point. The +camp is situated in a slight hollow or valley in the plain; +through its centre flows a stream, which when the camp was +first formed was knee-deep, but has greatly fallen off since, +so much so that reservoirs are being formed and wells sunk +in case the supply should cease. Short as the time is before +the post goes, I might have sent you more intelligence were +it not that Colonels Merewether and Phayre are both absent +upon some expedition in the surrounding country, and I am +therefore unable to draw any news from any official source. +The health of everyone up here is excellent, and the horses +are suffering less from the disease which has almost decimated +them in the lower ground. There are plenty of cattle brought +in for sale, but unfortunately the authorities have no money +to buy them with. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Senafe, December 19th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Senafe, December 19th"/> + +<dateline>Senafe, December 19th.</dateline> + +<p> +I wrote a few lines, upon my arrival here two days +ago; but as the post was upon the point of starting, I could +not do more than state that the rumours which had reached +us down below respecting the King of Tigré were untrue, +and that that monarch was at present pursuing a course +of masterly inactivity. I will now, therefore, resume my +<pb n="76"/><anchor id="Pg076"/>letter at the point where my last regular communication +ended—namely, at the station of Sooro, in the pass leading +to this place. I do not apologise for making my description +of this pass very detailed, for at present the whole interest of +the expedition centres in the passage of the troops and baggage +from Zulla to this point, and I feel sure that any particulars +which may enable the public to picture to themselves +the country through which our soldiers are marching will be +read with keen interest. From Sooro to Rayray Guddy, the +next regular station, is, according to the official report, twenty-eight +miles; but I am convinced, and in this opinion I am +borne out by every officer I have spoken to, that thirty-three +would be much nearer the fact. Indeed, in every march +up here the official distances are a good deal under the truth. +But, indeed, the officers of the exploring force appear to have +seen everything through rose-coloured spectacles. At Zulla +they reported plenty of water, and they found, a short way +further, an abundance of forage, which no one else has been +able to discover before or since. It was on the strength of +these reports of forage and water that the baggage-animals +were hurried forward. I am not blaming the officers who +made the reports. They simply acted as it is the nature of +explorers to act. Every father thinks his own child a prodigy. +Every discoverer believes that the country, or river, +or lake which he has been the first to report on, is a country, +river, or lake such as no man ever saw before. Over and over +again this has happened, and disastrous consequences have ere +now arisen from the persistent use by explorers of these rose-coloured +spectacles. It is not more than four or five years—to +give one example out of a thousand—since Dr. Livingstone +reported that he had discovered a magnificent navigable +<pb n="77"/><anchor id="Pg077"/>river in Eastern Africa, with rice, cotton, and corn abounding +upon its banks, and a climate beyond reproach. In consequence +of this report the <q>Universities Mission</q> was organised, +and a band of missionaries, headed by their bishop, +Mackenzie, started. After months of struggle they arrived +at the place of disembarkation, having already discovered that +their noble stream was, at a good average time of year, about +three feet deep. There they set up their mission; there, one +by one, these noble fellows died of want and of fever, victims +of an explorer’s rose-coloured spectacles. After that we must +not grudge the few hundred mules that have fallen a sacrifice +to the want of springs and forage which could be seen only +through the glasses of the chiefs of the exploring party. +</p> + +<p> +From Sooro to Rayray Guddy is too far a march to be +made in one day along such a road as there is at present, and +accordingly it is generally broken at a spot called Guinea-fowl +Plain, where there is a well yielding a small supply of +water, the colour of pea-soup. We had had quite sufficient +of night-marching previously, and, having passed one day at +Sooro, we started at ten o’clock the following morning. We +had intended to have started an hour earlier; but making a +start here is a very different thing from sending for a cab at +an appointed time to catch a train. In the first place there +are the trunks, which have been opened the night before, to +close; there is the tent to strike and pack up. Then at the +last moment you discover that your servants have not washed up +the breakfast-things, and that your mule-wallah has not yet +taken his animals to water. At last, when all is ready, comes +the important operation of loading the four baggage-animals. +Each load has to be adjusted with the nicest precision, or the +very first piece of rough ground you arrive at, round goes the +<pb n="78"/><anchor id="Pg078"/>saddle, and your belongings come to the ground with a crash. +With our two mules we have the <q>Otago saddle,</q> which is +excellent. Indeed, in the opinion of almost everyone here, +it is by far the best of the rival saddles. Upon these saddles +we pack our own baggage, and once fairly adjusted this is +pretty safe for the day. Not so the other animals, for which +we have common mule-saddles. Upon these is piled a multifarious +collection of bundles. Our servants’ five kits, our +animals’ rugs and ropes, our tents, two sacks containing +cooking-utensils and numerous etceteras, and a water-skin +for use upon the road. The actual weight that these animals +have to carry is not so great as that borne by the others; but +the trouble of adjusting and fastening on is at least ten times +as great. The loads have frequently to be taken off three or +four times, and then when we think all is right, and get fairly +into motion, we have not gone twenty yards before there is a +gradual descending motion observed on one side of an animal, +and a corresponding rise of the opposite burden, and we are +obliged to stop and readjust everything, or in another minute +or two the whole would have toppled over. These things +ruffle the temper somewhat, and our equanimity is not improved +by the intense stupidity which our native servants +always manifest upon these occasions. They seem to have +no eye. They heap bundles on the side which was before +palpably the heaviest; they twist cords where cords can be +of no earthly use: altogether they are horribly aggravating. +However, by this time I am getting accustomed to these +things, and take matters into my own hands, and insist on +things being done exactly as I direct them. At ten o’clock, +then, we were fairly off, and I do not know that I ever rode +through a more monotonous valley than that between Sooro +<pb n="79"/><anchor id="Pg079"/>and Guinea-fowl Plain. It was the counterpart of that I +described in my last letter as extending between Koomaylo +and Lower Sooro. A dead flat of two or three hundred +yards across, with the torrent’s bed winding across it, and +spur after spur of mountain turning it every quarter of a +mile. Some of the mountain views which we saw up the +ravines were certainly very fine, but it became monotonous +in the extreme after six hours’ march at the rate of little over +two miles an hour. The vegetation, however, had changed +since the preceding day. The thorny bush no longer covered +everything, but a variety of shrubs now bordered the path, +and the diversity of their foliage was a relief to the eye. Immense +quantities of locusts were everywhere met with, making +the ground yellow where they lay, and rising with a +rustling noise, which was very discomposing to the horses at +our approach. They did not eat all the shrubs, but the +species upon which they fed were absolutely covered with +them, and most of their favourite plants were stripped completely +bare. Monkeys, or rather baboons, still abounded: +we saw numerous large troops of them, which must have been +over a hundred strong. It was about five o’clock when we +reached Guinea-fowl Plain, which may have guinea-fowls, +although we saw none; but which is most certainly not a +plain, for at the place where the well is the valley is narrower +than it had been for miles previously. Here we found some +really large trees, and under them we pitched our tent. It +was not long before our servants had fires lighted and dinner +in a forward state. There were two or three other parties +who had arrived before us, and, as it got dusk, all lighted +fires; and, as each party, with their cooking and grooms’ +fires, had at least three bonfires going, it made quite a +pictur<pb n="80"/><anchor id="Pg080"/>esque scene. The night was raw and cold, and we had a few +drops of rain. It was fortunate that we had brought water +with us for cooking purposes, for the water in the well was +perfectly undrinkable. +</p> + +<p> +The next morning we were again off early for our longest +journey, that on to Rayray Guddy, where food would be procurable +for horse and man, neither one nor the other being +obtainable at Guinea-fowl Plain, where there is no commissariat +station. We had carried our own food, and a small +portion of grain for the horses; but they would have fared +very badly had we not met some natives in the pass with a +bundle of hay, and done a little barter with them for rice. +The valley for the first twelve or fourteen miles from Guinea-fowl +Plain greatly resembled in its general features that we +had passed the day previously, but the vegetation became +more varied and interesting every mile. We now had great +trees of ivy, we had the evergreen oak, and occasionally +gigantic tulip-trees. We had great numbers of a tree, or +rather large shrub, of the name of which I am ignorant; its +leaves more resembled the sprays of the asparagus when it +has run far to seed than any other foliage I know, but the +growth of the shrub was more like a yew. Upon its +branches were vast quantities of a parasite resembling the +mistletoe, whose dark-green leaves afforded a fine contrast to +the rather bluish tint of the tree. Climbing everywhere over +the trees, and sometimes almost hiding them, were creepers +of various kinds; on the ground grew vast quantities of +the aloe. There were, too, numerous cacti of various kinds, +some thick and bulky, others no thicker than a lady’s little +finger, and growing like a creeper over the trees. But, +strangest of all, upon the hill-sides grew an immense plant, +<pb n="81"/><anchor id="Pg081"/>or rather tree, of the cactus tribe, which I had never seen +before. It started by a straight stem fifteen or twenty feet +high, and thicker than a man’s body. This branched out +into a great number of arms, which all grew upwards, and to +just the same height, giving it a strange and formal appearance, +exactly resembling a gigantic cauliflower. I believe its +name is <hi rend="italic">Euphorbia candalabriensis</hi>, but do not at all vouch for +this. Some of the mountain slopes were quite covered with +this strange tree, but as a general thing it grew singly or in +pairs. The tulip-trees were superb; they grew generally in +rocky places, and with their huge twisted trunks, and glossy +green leaves, and limbs more than a hundred feet long, they +were studies for a painter. +</p> + +<p> +At about three miles from Rayray Guddy the valley narrowed +to a ravine, and we came upon running water. The +pass from here to the station is steep and difficult, but nothing +to that at Sooro. Having drawn our rations, and received +the unwelcome intelligence that there was no hay, and only +the scantiest possible amount of grain for our animals, we +established our camp and went up to look at the land transport +division, about a quarter of a mile higher up the valley. +There were four or five hundred mules and ponies here, in +good order, but hardly good condition; in fact, the work has +been hard and forage scant. How hard the work has been, +our journey of the two preceding days had testified. All +along the line of march we had come across the carcasses of +dead animals, from which great vultures rose lazily at our +approach. As we approached Rayray Guddy the remains of +the victims occurred much more frequently, and the air was +everywhere impregnated with the fœtid odour. This was +only to be expected, as the poor animals had been obliged to +<pb n="82"/><anchor id="Pg082"/>endeavour to accomplish the march of thirty miles from Sooro +without food, and in most cases without water. No time +should be lost in forming a small commissariat dépôt at +Guinea-fowl Plain, where a ration of hay and grain could be +served out to the animals as they pass through. The work +these baggage-animals have to go through is extremely severe, +and their half-starved appearance testifies that they have +not sufficient food served out to them, and to expect them to +do two days’ work on their one day’s scanty rations is a little +too much even from mules. We found our friends who had +started before us from Guinea-fowl Plain encamped up there +with Captain Mortimer of the transport train. It was proposed +that we should throw in our mess with them. We +accordingly returned to our own encampment, took our meat +and rum, our plates and knives and forks, and marched back +again. In an hour dinner was ready, and in the mean time +I was glad of an opportunity of inquiring how this advanced +division of the transport train had got on. I found that they +had, like the one down at Zulla, had the greatest trouble with +their drivers. The officer complained bitterly of the class of +men who had been sent out—Greeks, Italians, Frenchmen, +Spaniards, the mere sweepings of Alexandria, Cairo, Beyrout, +and Smyrna. The Hindoo drivers, he said, upon the +whole, worked steadily, and were more reliable than the +others, but were greatly wanting in physical strength. The +Persians, on the contrary, were very strong and powerful +men, and could load three mules while a Hindoo could load +one; but they had at first given very great trouble, had +mutinied and threatened to desert in a body, but, upon the +application of the lash to two or three of the ringleaders, +things had gone on more smoothly. The Arab drivers had +<pb n="83"/><anchor id="Pg083"/>almost all deserted. Even up here the mules still suffer from +the disease which prevailed down upon the plain, and which +carried off a hundred horses of the 3d Native Cavalry. It is +very sudden in its action, and is in nearly every case fatal. +The animals seem seized with some internal pain, arch their +backs, and become rigid. In a short time the tongue grows +black, a discharge takes place from the nostrils, and in a few +hours, sometimes not more than one, from the time he is attacked, +the animal is dead. At present, as with our cattle-disease, +all remedies are ineffectual. Animals in good condition +are more liable to be attacked than are the poorer ones. +After dinner we returned to our tent, where, however, we +did not pass a remarkably-pleasant night. In the first place, +it was bitterly cold—the temperature of Rayray Guddy is +indeed colder than it is here; and in the second, a mule had +broken loose from its head-ropes, and came down to our +encampment. Five or six times it nearly upset our tent by +tumbling over the tent-ropes, in addition to which it made +our horses so savage by going up among them, that we were +afraid of their breaking loose. Four or five times, therefore, +did we have to get up and go out in the cold to drive the +beast away with stones. The grooms were sleeping at their +horses’ heads, but were so wrapped up in their rugs that +they heard nothing of it. The next morning it was so cold +that we were really glad to be up and moving, and were on +our way at a little before eight. The first six miles of the +road is narrow and winding, and is as lovely a road as I ever +passed. With the exception only of the narrow pathway, the +gorge was one mass of foliage. In addition to all the plants +I have mentioned as occurring below, we had now the wild +fig, the laburnum, various sorts of acacia, and many others, +<pb n="84"/><anchor id="Pg084"/>One plant in particular, I believe a species of acacia, was in +seed; the seed-pods were a reddish-brown, but were very +thin and transparent, and when the sun shone upon them +were of the colour of the clearest carmine. As these shrubs +were in great abundance, and completely covered with seed-pods, +their appearance was very brilliant. Among all these +plants fluttered numerous humming-birds of the most lovely +colours. Other birds of larger size and gorgeous plumage +perched among the trees at a short distance from the path. +Brilliant butterflies flitted here and there among the +flowers. +</p> + +<p> +At last we came to an end of this charming ride, and +prepared for a work of a very different nature. We turned +from the ravine which we had now followed for sixty miles, +and prepared boldly to ascend the hill-side. As soon as +we left the ravine all the semi-tropical vegetation was at an +end; we were climbing a steep hill covered with boulders, +between which stunted pines thrust their gnarled branches +and dark foliage. We had gone at one leap from a tropical +ravine to a highland mountain-side. The ascent was, I +should say, at the least a thousand feet, and a worse thousand-feet +climb I never had before and never wish to have +again. It is a mere track which zigzags up among the rocks +and trees, and which was made by the 10th Native Infantry +and the Sappers, as the pioneer force rested below and had +breakfast. The men effected marvels considering that it +was the work of two hours only; but it is at best a mere +track. Sometimes the mules mount a place as steep as a +flight of stairs; then they have to step over a rock three +feet high. In fact, it is one long struggle up to the top, +and in no place wide enough for two mules to pass. One +<pb n="85"/><anchor id="Pg085"/>mule falling puts a stop to a whole train, and this was exemplified +in our case, for we were following a long line of +mules when they suddenly came to a stop. For half-an-hour +we waited patiently, and then, climbing up the rocks +and through the trees at the side of the stationary mules, +we finally came to the cause of detention—one of the mules +had fallen. The drivers had taken no efforts to remove his +pack or his saddle, but were sitting by his side quietly +smoking their pipes. After a little strong language we took +off his saddle, got things right, and the train proceeded +again. This is the great want of the transport corps—a +strong body of inspectors, as they are called, volunteers from +European regiments. There ought to be one of these to +every ten or fifteen drivers, who, as in the present case, +if not looked after by a European, will shirk work in every +possible way. But this is a subject upon which I shall have +much more to say at a future time. This road or path is +really not practicable for the passage of mules, for, although +singly they can go up well enough, if one party going up +were to meet another going down, it is probable that, if no +European came up to make one party or other retrace their +steps, they would remain there until the last animal died +of starvation. Three companies of the Beloochee regiment +arrived yesterday at the bottom of the hill, and have set to +work to widen and improve it; and as a party of sappers +and miners have begun to work downwards from the top, +the road will soon be made passable. For this hill-side is +not like the pass of Sooro, which would require an incredible +amount of labour to render it a decent road. There +are no natural obstacles here beyond trees to be cut down +and stones to be rolled away; so that by the time the main +<pb n="86"/><anchor id="Pg086"/>body of the army arrives I have no doubt that they will +find a fair road up to the plateau. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> + </div><div> +<index index="toc" level1="Senafe, December 20th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Senafe, December 20th"/> + +<dateline>Senafe, December 20th.</dateline> + +<p> +I closed my letter in great haste yesterday afternoon, +for the authorities suddenly arrived at the conclusion that +it was the last day for the English mail. I was obliged to +break off abruptly in my description of the road, being at +the point where we had just arrived upon the plateau. Looking +backwards, we could see peak after peak extending behind +us, which when we had been winding among their +bases had looked so high above us, but which now were +little above the level of the spot where we were standing. A +few of the peaks around us might have been a thousand or +fifteen hundred feet higher than the plateau, and we +were standing nearly on the summit of that high range of +hills we had seen from the sea. We are now seven thousand +four hundred feet above Zulla, and by my description +of the pass it will be seen that it is no child’s-play to attain +this height. It is not that the ascent is so steep; on the +contrary, taking the distance at seventy miles, the rise is +only one in a hundred, an easy gradient for a railway; but +more than half the rise takes place in three short steep +ascents, namely, the Sooro pass, a rise of one thousand five +hundred feet in four miles; the Rayray Guddy pass, a rise +of one thousand feet in three miles; and the last climb on +to the plateau, a rise of one thousand five hundred feet in +two miles. Thus four thousand feet, or more than half the +rise, takes place in nine miles, and over the remaining distance +the rise is only one foot in every two hundred. The +<pb n="87"/><anchor id="Pg087"/>difficulties of the journey are the general roughness of the +road, the long distances the animals have to go without +water, and the ascent of the Sooro pass, for there is no doubt +that the final rise to the plateau will soon be made a good +road by the exertions of the Beloochees and Sappers. Turning +our horses’ heads we proceeded onward. The change +to an open plain and a fresh wind in place of the long valley +and oppressive stillness was charming. One would have +thought oneself on the top of a Welsh hill. The ground +was a black peaty soil, with a short dried-up grass. Here +and there were small patches of cultivated ground, and +clumps of rock cropped up everywhere. Looking forward, +we could see that the general character of the ground was +that of a plain; but enormous masses of rock, of seven or +eight hundred feet in height, rose perpendicularly in fantastic +shapes sheer up from the plain. Here and there were +ranges of mountains, some of considerable altitude. Far in +the distance we could see hills rising between hills, but +never attaining any great height. Everywhere over the +plain were little groups of cattle and sheep grazing. We +were evidently in a thickly-populated country. +</p> + +<p> +After about two miles’ ride we turned the corner of a +slight rise, and there before us lay the camp. It is prettily +situated on the side of a little valley, and faces the north. +The 10th Native Infantry are encamped on the right +wing; the Mountain Train occupy the centre; and the +3d Cavalry camp lies on the left. Behind the rise a +plain stretches away, and upon this the troops will be encamped +as they arrive. The soil of the valley-side and of +the plain beyond is a mere sand, covered with grass and +bushes, but in the hollow of the valley, where the stream +<pb n="88"/><anchor id="Pg088"/>runs, or rather used to run, it is a deep black peat. Wells +are now being sunk in this peat, and these rapidly fill with +water. There are still deep pools where the stream formerly +ran, and dams have been formed, which will keep +back a considerable supply of water. The troops are not, +therefore, likely to fall short for some time, and if they +should, there is plenty at a stream two or three miles farther +on. The health of the troops is pretty good, but both +officers and men are subject to slight attacks of fever, much +more so than they were when encamped on the plain by +the sea. This is singular, for except that the nights are +rather cold, this feels the very perfection of climate. The +horses and mules are doing much better up here, and although +some died at first, it is probable that they had brought +the seeds of the disease with them from the pass below. +As it is, the cavalry have suffered terribly. The 5th Cavalry, +out of five hundred horses, have lost one hundred and seventy, +and the officers’ horses of the infantry and Mountain Train +have been nearly exterminated. +</p> + +<p> +Things are very tranquil here. The King of Tigré, +after first being friendly, and then blustering a little, has +just at present, influenced probably by the reports of the +increasing force of the expedition, determined upon the prudent +policy of friendship, at any rate until he sees a better +opportunity of plunder than he does at present. Yesterday +afternoon an ambassador arrived from him, saying magnanimously, +<q>Why should we not be friends? My foes +are your foes; my interests your interests. Take therefore +my forage, and my blessing.</q> Colonel Merewether is greatly +delighted at this message, and sees, through those rose-coloured +spectacles of his, an early end to the expedition. +<pb n="89"/><anchor id="Pg089"/>Everyone else is perfectly indifferent. The King of Tigré’s +army of 7000 men could be scattered like chaff by a battalion +of Europeans; and if he ever sees a chance of falling +upon our rear, it is more than probable that his friendly +professions will go for nothing. I do not think that the +smallest reliance can be placed in the friendship of these +semi-savage chiefs. +</p> + +<p> +We gave his ambassador a lesson this morning, which +will, I have no doubt, have its effect. It was a brigade field-day, +and Colonel Merewether took the ambassador out to +witness it. It is a great pity that the artillery and the infantry +had not a few rounds of blank cartridge, which would +have given his ambassadorship a much more lively idea of +what the real thing would be like, and would have given +him such a tale to bear to his king and master as would +have opened his Majesty’s eyes to what the consequences +of a war with us would probably be. But even as it was, +it no doubt had a very salutary effect. The enemy were +supposed to be holding a steep rise at the mouth of a long +valley. The infantry threw forward skirmishers, and the +mountain guns took up a position upon a neighbouring hill, +and were supposed to open a heavy fire. Presently the infantry +advanced in line, and made a rush up the steep rise. +As they reached the top they lowered bayonets to the charge, +and with a loud cheer rushed upon the defenders. An instant +afterwards the word <q>Charge!</q> was given to cavalry, +and away they went down the valley, sweeping the enemy’s +supports and the fugitives from the hill before them for +half a mile, and then scattering in pursuit. It was very +well done, and, as I have said, no doubt had its effect, especially +when the ambassador was made to understand that +<pb n="90"/><anchor id="Pg090"/>the force he saw before him was only one-tenth of our advancing +army. The movements of the troops were fairly +performed, and did great credit to their respective commanding-officers. +Their remaining horses are in excellent +condition, and are very strong serviceable animals. Their +uniform is a very effective one, light-blue and silver, with +white covers to their forage caps. The infantry, whose uniform +is precisely similar to our own, also wear white cap-covers. +Going out to the parade-ground, which is about +two miles distant from here, we passed several native villages, +and a great number of them can be seen scattered +all over the plains. The country, indeed, is very thickly +populated; very much more so than a rural district in England +of the same extent. The people possess goats, sheep, +and cattle in abundance, together with ponies, donkeys, and +mules. They are ready to sell all these animals to us, but +demand very high prices, which has been to a certain extent +encouraged by the prices Colonel Merewether has +ordered to be paid at the bazaar for them. Thus, he has +fixed the price of a goat at a dollar and a half, that is six +and ninepence, whereas I paid down in the pass only two +shillings for a goat, and could have bought any number +at that price. It is probable, too, that the current price +for goats, or indeed for any animals, is considerably less +here than in the valley, for there forage is extremely scarce, +and must be sought at long distances; whereas here it is +abundant, the plains being covered with it. Of course, this +price having been once fixed, the natives will not take less, +that is, in specie. They would take a shilling’s worth of +rice for a goat; but of course we have no rice to give them. +It may make but little difference to Colonel Merewether +<pb n="91"/><anchor id="Pg091"/>whether he pays seven shillings or two shillings for a goat; +but the subalterns naturally grumble at having to pay three +times the real value for their food. Not, indeed, that the +officers here have to buy much, for their guns supplement +their rations to a very considerable extent. Guinea-fowls, +partridges, ducks, and geese abound, and a large number +are daily shot by the sportsmen of the camp. The ration +allowance of one pound of meat, including bone, a pound +of biscuit, two ounces of preserved vegetables, and a quarter +of a pound of rice, is quite insufficient for one’s wants +in a bracing atmosphere like this. The meat issued contains +an enormous proportion of bone, so that there is little +if at all more than half a pound of clear meat in a ration. +I am sure that I consume at least three times my daily +allowance of meat. +</p> + +<p> +The natives completely swarm about our camp. The +men do not do much, but loiter about with their swords and +spears, and shields made of elephant-hide. These spears are +really formidable weapons. They are from six to ten feet +long, and weighted at both ends, and the natives are able +to throw them with great force and considerable accuracy +for a distance of over thirty yards. These would be ugly +weapons in a hand-to-hand fight in a bush, but as it is, +against a disciplined force armed with firearms, they are +simply absurd, and I have seen no offensive weapons—such +as bows or arrows—which could be used with effect against +us during the passage of a defile, in their possession, since +my arrival in the country. The women appear to do all +the work. They come into the camp in hundreds laden +with firewood, and keep up a perpetual cry of <q>Lockaree, +lockaree!</q>—which is the Hindoostanee for wood, they having +<pb n="92"/><anchor id="Pg092"/>picked up that word,—and <q>Parnè!</q> water. Even the children +bring their bundles of wood. The women are not +nearly so pretty as some of them I saw down the pass, nor +are they so neatly clad. They are dressed in cotton and +leather; but neither are these so tastefully arranged, or so +fancifully ornamented with shells, as were those I described +in a previous letter. They are very thin, many of the children +painfully so, which is surprising when one sees the +abundance of their flocks and herds. The villages, too, are +well built. The houses are low and flat-roofed. They are +in many cases built of stone, and some of them have inner +courts, with a sort of veranda formed of boughs to sit under. +They have, like the Arab villages I saw at Alexandria, and +which they strongly resemble, no windows; but as the native’s +life is entirely passed in the open air, I suppose that matters +but little. The natives seem to feel the cold much, +and go shivering about in the early morning and evening in +a pitiful way. They bring in honey for sale in pots, weighing +about ten pounds, and for which they charge two dollars. +Their own drink is made of this honey, fermented +with the juice of a plant which grows abundantly upon the +plain. The honey, as they bring it into camp, is very impure, +and needs refining before using. The commissariat +officer rode out yesterday to one of the villages, and bought +a quantity of chillies, which will prove a great addition to +our fare when they begin to issue them, for we have had +no pepper served out since we landed; and a course of +mutton, unrelieved by condiment of any kind, is apt to pall +upon the stomach. +</p> + +<p> +All praise must be given to the commissariat for the way +in which they have performed the service from Zulla to this +<pb n="93"/><anchor id="Pg093"/>place. Not one day have the troops been without their rations; +and the animals, although they have not always received their +full supply, have yet always had something to eat at the end +of the day’s work. No commissariat officer accompanied the +pioneer force in their march up; but the whole arrangements +were made by Conductor Darcey, to whom the greatest credit +is due. During the whole march he did not lose a single +animal, or a single bag of grain. A commissariat officer has +arrived within the last two days; but honour should be given +where it is due, and certainly the greatest credit is due to +those noncommissioned officers for the manner in which, +alone and unaided, they have carried out the difficult duties +intrusted to them. Two prisoners were brought in yesterday. +They are part of the gang who have been infesting the pass, +robbing every convoy without a guard of Europeans. They +were captured by a friendly chief, who, with his men, came +upon the whole gang. The rest fled, throwing away their +weapons, of which quite a bundle was brought into camp. +The prisoners, being old men, were unable to escape, and +were brought in triumph by their captors into Rayray Guddy, +whence they were forwarded to Colonel Merewether. Their +preliminary examination by the interpreter took place in the +open air. The prisoners and their accusers squatted in a +circle, and a number of natives gathered round. These last +were evidently greatly amused and surprised at the formality +of the proceedings,—as the guilt of the accused was undoubted, +articles of European manufacture, such as portions +of harness, being found in their possession,—and the idea +being evidently prevalent that we should hang them at once. +They were removed to the guard-tent, and will, I suppose, +be regularly tried, and well flogged, in a day or two. +</p> + +<pb n="94"/><anchor id="Pg094"/> + +<p> +This expectation was not verified; the prisoners were let +off, with an admonition to behave better in future; and this +happened again and again. The absurd course pursued by +our political officer towards native offenders produced, as +might have been expected, very disastrous consequences +afterwards. The natives learnt that our baggage could +be plundered with impunity, and that even when taken red-handed +in the act, the chances were that no punishment +whatever would be inflicted. They naturally ascribed this +conduct on our part to fear—for in Abyssinia the punishment +for theft is very severe, the culprit frequently having +his hand cut off—and were encouraged to plunder accordingly. +A moderate share of energy, one grain of common +sense among the authorities at Senafe at this time, so that the +first two or three offenders caught plundering our convoys in +open day should have been flogged to within an inch of their +lives, and plundering would have been put a stop to at once +and for ever; and a very great many lives, both of our own +muleteers and of the natives themselves, would have been +eventually saved. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +It is a great satisfaction to know that in the course of a +short time we shall be able to purchase for the use of the army +any number of bullocks and sheep. We have not been able +to do so heretofore, for the absurd reason that we have had no +money. Will it be believed that a body of troops marching +on into a country where it is supposed they would be able to +purchase any quantity of animals for themselves and the army +which is to follow them, should have come up with the military +chest totally unprovided with money? It is almost too +preposterous, but it is perfectly true. A chest of two thousand +<pb n="95"/><anchor id="Pg095"/>pounds arrived yesterday under a guard. But what are two +thousand pounds when we want three or four thousand bullocks +alone, and when Colonel Merewether has fixed the price +of each at six dollars and a half—that is, as nearly as possible, +thirty shillings? +</p> + +<p> +I shall be able to send you but little news from here. +Colonel Merewether proceeds to-morrow morning forty miles +into the interior. He takes with him a troop of cavalry, a +large stock of mules, &c., but he declines positively to allow +a <hi rend="italic">confrère</hi> and myself to accompany him. He is civil, but +firm. <q>The addition of two persons would probably break +down the whole party. Starvation might ensue, and he could +not guarantee that we should be fed.</q> These are actually +word for word the reasons he gives for declining to allow the +only two special correspondents here from accompanying his +force. He can victual himself, Colonel Phayre, three or four +other staff-officers, and a troop of cavalry; but two correspondents +were too much for the resources of the commissariat. +We called upon him twice; we urged upon him that it was +a matter of great interest to the public that we should go +forward. We said that we would put him to no trouble, but +would bring our own mules, with ten days’ provisions, if +necessary. He declined positively to allow us to go. He +would, when he returned, give us details, and that was all he +would do. The public, in fact, might read his official report +and be thankful; for none other, says he, shall they receive. +Had we arrived here as two unaccredited strangers, his conduct +was perfectly explicable; but provided as we were by +the courtesy of the India Office with letters to Sir Robert +Napier, and furnished by him, in consequence, with a circular +letter, requesting all officers of the army to forward our +<pb n="96"/><anchor id="Pg096"/>wishes in every way, we certainly had not expected to have +been refused the chance of availing ourselves of the very first +opportunity which has fallen in our way of sending you something +really new from Abyssinia. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Camp, Senafe, December 23d"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Camp, Senafe, December 23d"/> + +<dateline>Camp, Senafe, December 23d.</dateline> + +<p> +At the time I closed my last letter I had no idea that my +next communication would be dated Senafe. Colonel Merewether’s +unaccountable refusal to allow my fellow-correspondent +and myself to accompany him upon his expedition had +rendered our further stay here useless. +</p> + +<p> +Accordingly, an hour or two after the expedition had +started from camp, I packed up a light kit and started for the +sea-shore. The road, as far as the top of the first descent, is +now so free from stone that it might be used as a race-course, +but we found that nothing had yet been done with the zigzag +down the face of the hill. However, as we met no mules upon +our way it was an easy descent enough; indeed the whole +pass, from end to end, although it has its difficulties, still presents +no real obstacle to a single traveller. It is only when +viewed in the light of a highway for an army, as the only +line of communication up which the stores of 20,000 men +must come, that one considers it to be a really terrible business. +No forage is procurable for the baggage-animals between +the sea and Senafe, seventy miles. A large proportion, +therefore, of the mules is occupied in carrying food for themselves +and their companions. The stages, too, for heavily-burdened +animals across an exceedingly-rough road are distressingly +long. Twelve miles a-day, with a pause for an hour +to feed and water in the middle of the day, could be done by +<pb n="97"/><anchor id="Pg097"/>heavily-loaded mules without deterioration of their quality. +But here all the stages, except the last, considerably exceed +that distance; and from Sooro to Rayray Guddy, over thirty +miles, is practically without food or water. This is what +makes the Koomaylo Pass so difficult as the highway of an +army—want of forage the whole distance, and long intervals +between the watering-places; to which may be added the +disease which infects the pass and decimates the animals as +they go up and down. The mule, although one of the most +enduring of creatures, and capable of sustaining great privations, +is yet a delicate animal. Feed him well, keep him supplied +with water and hay, and he will do wonders; but without +regular and abundant food he falls away rapidly. During +the last campaign in Italy there were thousands of mules engaged +transporting provisions up the Tyrol to Garibaldi. They +had great fatigue and long marches, but they were well fed +and had plenty of water; and consequently throughout the +campaign I never saw a dead mule, and hardly one out of +condition. Here it is just the reverse; the mules are greatly +fallen off, and although they are now much better fed, they +will be a very long time before they regain their lost strength. +In respect to food a great improvement has been effected in +the last few days. Captain Sewell has been here about a +week. He is in charge of the commissariat, and has purchased +considerable quantities of hay, which is now served +out to the mules here, and to their even worse-off brethren +down at Rayray Guddy; for here, at least, in their intervals +of labour the mules were able to graze, while in the valley +there is not a blade of grass to be had. Captain Mortimer, +indeed, who is in charge of the transport division there, only +kept his animals alive by compelling their drivers to go up +<pb n="98"/><anchor id="Pg098"/>to the summit of the hills, either before their day’s work is +begun or after it was over, and to cut and bring down a certain +weight of hay. It is very fortunate that vultures are +so abundant in this country. Were it not for them the pass +would be unbearable from the taint of dead animals. Between +the top of the pass and Rayray Guddy, a distance of eight +miles, we passed more than that number of dead mules and +ponies, most of which had been only dead three days at most; +and everyone of these had been partially eaten by the vultures, +who keep wheeling and circling in the air overhead, +and scarcely is life out of an animal before these scavengers +swoop down upon it. I have seen as many as seven or eight +of these great birds eating and fighting over the carcass of a +single horse. The ride from the bottom of the steep incline +to Rayray Guddy I have already described, and it is certainly +the most beautiful ride of seven miles I ever traversed, the +brilliancy and variety of the foliage, the number and beauty +of the humming-birds and butterflies, all being in addition to +the ordinary scenery of a mountain pass. I find that the great +trees I described as tulip-trees are not really tulip-trees, although +their foliage strangely resembles that tree. Authorities +differ as to what they really are; some affirming that they are +banyan-trees, while others say that no banyan-tree was ever +seen without the long pendulous roots from its branches, of +which there are here no trace. +</p> + +<p> +Upon reaching Rayray Guddy we found that Sir Charles +Staveley had arrived there two hours previously from Sooro. +He had not heard of the departure of Colonels Merewether, +Phayre, and Wilkins, and as the principal object of his +journey had been to see them, he was of course much disappointed. +However, he determined now he had come so +<pb n="99"/><anchor id="Pg099"/>far, to go on to Senafe, and we decided upon returning with +him, as we had now no motive for going down, and, indeed, +it was possible that he might either ride out himself +to the point whither Colonel Merewether had gone, or might +send an aide-de-camp to request him to return, in either +of which cases we knew that he would grant us permission +to go. General Staveley was the more disappointed at the +absence of Colonel Merewether because he had taken the +precaution of writing two days previously to announce his +coming. The letter, of course, had not arrived, for the +general had performed the distance in three days from Zulla +to Senafe, and the post would take at least two days longer. +Nothing, indeed, can possibly be worse than the postal arrangements, +or rather want of arrangement. Relays of +men on foot carry the letters, and even these do not travel +at night. But the great question which everyone is asking +is, <q>What becomes of the letters?</q> I have not received +a single letter or newspaper of a later date than November 4th. +Some few people have been more fortunate, and occasionally +get a letter or paper; but they are exceptions. One +feels as absolutely cut off from England as if a great gulf +had opened between us. I did hear this morning from someone +who had had the luck to receive an odd newspaper that +the amount for the Abyssinian war had been voted, and we +had a hearty laugh over the news that the expenses were +laid at four millions. I only hope that the post down is a +little better regulated than that up, for if not, instead of +getting my letters regularly once a-week, they will probably +arrive in a mass about the end of next June. The general +came up here on the 22d. He will, I believe, start on his +return journey to-morrow, whether Colonel Merewether and +<pb n="100"/><anchor id="Pg100"/>his party come into camp or not, as his presence is absolutely +necessary on the sea-shore. It will be unfortunate if +he should miss them after his long journey up here, especially +as he had made certain of seeing them; for the committee +of exploration, which consisted of Colonels Merewether, +Phayre, and Wilkins, was dissolved by an order of General +Napier, which was published ten days since, and of which +these gentlemen of course received a copy. General Napier +thanked them warmly for their efforts to carry out their +duty, and for the success which had attended them, but +stated that General Sir Charles Staveley had gone to Zulla +to take the command until he himself arrived, and that +therefore there was no longer any occasion for the existence +of the committee. In the face of this order General Staveley +could hardly have expected that these gentlemen would have +proceeded on an expedition forty miles into the interior +without any consultation or reference to himself. +</p> + +<p> +An important messenger came into the camp on the afternoon +of the 22d. He stated that he was the servant of +Mr. Flad, and, indeed, was identified as being so by several +people in camp. He stated that he had started with a letter +from Mr. Flad, and with one from King Theodore, but that +he had been robbed of them upon the way. He brought, +however, one piece of important and very disagreeable news, +namely, that Theodore had marched from Debra Tabor to +Magdala; had raised the siege of that place by the King +of Shoa, and had taken the whole of the captives back with +him to Debra Tabor. This is the most unfortunate occurrence +which could possibly have taken place. As long as +the captives were separated from him by his enemies they +were safe; and if, as will in all probability be the case, the +<pb n="101"/><anchor id="Pg101"/>army of Theodore should disband at our approach, and +he himself rule safely in the fortresses of the mountains, +where search for him would be out of the question, we +should have marched to Magdala and effected the release +of the prisoners. Now we have no such hope. We may +toil on across mountain and ravine, but we know that our +hands are shackled, and that the tyrant we war against can +at any moment purchase peace upon his own terms. Theodore +can laugh our efforts to scorn; he knows that he need +not disquiet himself. He can let the expedition approach +him. He can chuckle over the enormous waste of treasure +and effort, even if not of human life; and he knows that at +the last moment he can arrest us with the ultimatum—<q>Return +at once, and I will release my prisoners; move one +step forward, and I will sacrifice every one.</q> This is very +disheartening, and takes away from the expedition that zest +and buoyancy which the thought of a possible skirmish at +the end of the toilsome journey would give it. Nothing +could be more unfortunate than the loss of Theodore’s letter +by Mr. Flad’s servant. It may be that in it Theodore +offered to restore the captives at once upon the agreement +that we would advance no farther. It may be that he held +out the threat that the prisoners would be put to death did +we not at once agree to his terms. Altogether it is most +unfortunate. It is to be hoped that Theodore will see the +manifest likelihood of his messenger being stopped upon the +way, and will send his letter in duplicate by some other +hand. There is a rumour current among the natives this +morning that Theodore has released the captives, and that +they are upon their way down. There is, of course, no finding +out the origin of this report, but it is most unlikely +<pb n="102"/><anchor id="Pg102"/>that he would deliver them up until, at any rate, he had +obtained a promise that we in return would abandon all +idea of advancing upon him. +</p> + +<p> +The disease among the horses still continues. Those who +have been the longest up here appear comparatively safe, but +it would seem to require some time to get the disease out of +the blood. Every morning three or four mules are dragged +out of the camp to the foot of the hills, a mile off, there to be +eaten by the vultures. Yesterday afternoon my groom came +to me with the unpleasant intelligence, <q>Sahib, your baggage-pony +ill.</q> I went out and found him lying down. Upon +the veterinary surgeon arriving he shook his head, and, pointing +to the swollen tongue, said that it was the disease, and +that in a couple of hours it would be dead. We tried brandy-and-water +in the vain hope of reviving him, but it was quite +useless, and in a little over the two hours the pony died, +having been apparently unconscious for an hour and a half +previously. Yesterday, too, the horse of Dr. Lamb, chief +veterinary surgeon of the transport corps, died. Dr. Lamb +came up with us a week since. After spending three days +here inspecting the animals he returned, but as he did not +wish his horse to run the risk of again going down into the +pass, he left it here in perfect health, and rode down again +upon a baggage-pony. Yesterday the poor animal died, after +the usual three hours’ illness. Dr. Lamb strongly recommended +that all animals which can be spared should be at +once sent up here. Unfortunately none of the baggage-animals, +except those which work the last stage from Rayray +Guddy here, can be spared. They must remain below +to carry up provisions and baggage whatever the mortality +may be. General Staveley has ordered that in future 10 +<pb n="103"/><anchor id="Pg103"/>per cent of spare animals shall accompany every train of +loaded mules, to take the baggage off those who give in on +the way. He has also ordered that the artillery-horses shall +be instantly sent up here with their native attendants. The +soldiers cannot accompany them, as their warm clothing has +not yet arrived. He has also ordered that the cavalry regiments +shall be sent on the instant they land. The general +has taken particular interest in the transport train since he +arrived at Zulla, and it is due to the order he gave and to +the assistance with which he supplied them from the 33d and +Beloochee regiments, that the train down at Zulla has been +enabled to make head against the tremendous difficulties they +have sustained owing to the wholesale desertion among the +drivers, and to the uselessness of a great portion of those who +remain. He has divided the baggage-animals which are in +the country into regular squadrons, stationing a number at +each station proportioned to the length and hardship of the +journey. General Staveley, indeed, is the very man for an +expedition of this sort. Whatever he sees is necessary, he +takes upon himself the responsibility of ordering to be done. +I consider his arrival at Zulla to have been most providential. +Everything was going wrong, disorder ruled supreme. All +this is now at an end. General Staveley has taken the command, +and unity of action is once more introduced. Whether +Colonel Phayre, now that his committee of exploration is dissolved, +may determine to go down to Zulla or to remain here, +is now of little importance, as Major Baigrie, the deputy-quartermaster-general, +is fully capable of carrying on the +duties, supported as he is by the weight of General Staveley’s +authority. +</p> + +<p> +This morning the 10th Native Infantry were engaged in +<pb n="104"/><anchor id="Pg104"/>clearing a large space of ground of stones, in order to make +it suitable for a parade-ground. It was wonderful to see how +fast they got through the work, and how much more they +accomplished than an equal number of Europeans would +have done in the same time. And this because squatting +is the normal attitude of an Oriental. In this attitude they +can remain for hours; therefore the work of collecting the +stones into heaps, which in turn were carried away in empty +rice-bags by another party, was the easiest affair possible. +It is very amusing looking on at these native fatigue-parties, +the varieties of costume are so great. The 10th Native Infantry, +like the Beloochees, is recruited from all parts of +India, and contain Mussulmans, Punjaubees, Sikhs, Patans, +Hill-men, and, in fact, specimens of most of the native races, +the Hindostanee proper being greatly in the minority. To a +certain extent these men cling to their own costume, consequently +in a party of a hundred of them on fatigue-duty the +variety is astonishing. Men in red turbans and white turbans, +in red, white, or violet nightcaps—these articles having +been served out to these men as part of their warm clothing—some +in coloured jackets, white underclothing, and long +drawers, others with nothing on but the cumberband, or loincloth, +some entirely in white, with their legs covered to the +knee. Many are the shades of colour too, from nearly jet +black down to the rich bronze of the Sikhs. Almost all are +fine, well-built men, and all appear to work with good temper +and with a will. The parade is to take place upon the new +ground to-morrow evening. It is not settled yet upon what +day General Staveley will leave, but his present intention is, +in case Colonel Merewether returns on the morning of the +25th, to start the same afternoon. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> + </div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Camp, Senafe, December 26th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Camp, Senafe, December 26th"/> +<pb n="105"/><anchor id="Pg105"/> + +<dateline>Camp, Senafe, December 26th.</dateline> + +<p> +When I wrote on the 23d instant I had not made up my +mind whether I should spend Christmas here or on the road +downwards. But circumstances finally compelled me to wait +here until to-day; and I am glad for several reasons that I +did so. The first and most important was in reference to the +story brought by Mr. Flad’s servant, namely, that Theodore +had marched to Magdala, had raised the siege of that fortress +by the rebels, and had taken all the captives back with him +to Debra Tabor. As this news was brought by a man who +was recognised by some in camp as being what he claimed—Mr. +Flad’s servant—his statement was received without suspicion, +and the event was justly considered to be most unfortunate. +When, however, the exploring-party returned, Dr. +Krapf, the chief interpreter, examined the man, cross-questioned +him as to time and dates, and found that these were +quite incompatible with the truth, as the man described them +as having taken place in the latter part of October, whereas +our last news from Mr. Flad himself was to November 7th, +at which time none of these movements had taken place. Finding +himself thus caught, the man confessed that his whole +statement was a lie. I need not say that this contradiction +of the false news gave the greatest satisfaction to everyone, +but the general feeling was that six dozen, well laid on, would +be of enormous benefit to the man who thus invented false +news, apparently merely for the pleasure of gratuitous lying. +Of course he will not be punished, for the policy pursued with +respect to the natives is mild in the extreme. By all means +conciliate natives, by all means pay for all you take, do no +wrong to anyone; but at the same time make them respect +you by the firmness with which you administer justice upon +<pb n="106"/><anchor id="Pg106"/>thieves and plunderers, and do not encourage the people to +cheat you by ordering a price at least six or eight times above +their former prices for every animal or article you buy. The +men who were taken in the act almost of robbery down the +pass, and whose preliminary examination I described a week +since, have not been flogged, or, as far as I am aware, in any +way punished, nor have three other ruffians who were captured +the following day. The natives put this forbearance +down to timidity on our part. They cannot comprehend +that any other feeling could prevent our punishing these +men, who have been robbing our convoys, now that we have +them in our power. It may be a course of Christian forbearance, +but officers whose kits have been plundered are very +sore that fellows of this kind are not summarily punished +upon the spot. +</p> + +<p> +The exploring-party went forward to Attegrat, a place of +some size, about thirty-five miles from here. They went by +one route and returned by another. One line was rather +more mountainous than the other, but both are, I hear, quite +practicable, and water, forage, and wood were found in abundance. +At Attegrat a large fair was going on, and very +large quantities of cattle, sheep, goats, ponies, and mules, +together with grain, chillies, honey, &c., were exposed for +sale. The appearance of the escort of cavalry excited the +greatest curiosity, and the party were almost mobbed as they +walked through the fair. On parts of the route they passed +through enormous flights of locusts, which the people were +endeavouring to frighten away from their fields by beating +drums and pieces of metal together, and by lighting great +fires. The locusts abound everywhere here; not a bush +which has not half-a-dozen of these insects, hardly a rock +<pb n="107"/><anchor id="Pg107"/>without one or two crawling over it. The natives say they +have not had so many for years, and that the crops have +been very greatly damaged by them. The only things which +benefit by them are the monkeys and birds, both of which +feed upon them. The natives themselves also eat them to a +certain extent. The method of preparation is as follows: A +large hole is made in the ground. This is lined smoothly +with clay. A large fire is lighted in this, and when this has +burnt down the ashes are scraped out, the hole is filled with +locusts, and covered up with clay. When the insects are +sufficiently baked they are taken out and pounded into a fine +powder, which is eaten mixed with rice or flour. At Attegrat +the expedition found blocks of salt used as the medium +of exchange: we have not seen any in this part of the +country. In the fair they also saw some really warm cloths +of native manufacture. This is important, as, if the supply +turns out to be abundant, it will save the expense of bringing +warm clothing for the native troops from England. Indeed, +warm clothes appear to me to be a most unnecessary portion of +our enormous baggage. The weather by day, even at this the +coldest time of year, and upon one of the most elevated parts +of our journey, is never cold enough for warm clothing. At +night men require an extra blanket for warmth, and this they +might wrap round them over their greatcoat upon unusually +cold nights. On Christmas-eve the general inspected the +troops, who performed several manœuvres. He left on +Christmas-day at three o’clock, four hours after the return of +the expeditionary force, and having had a conversation of +some length with Colonels Merewether and Phayre. One +good result among the many brought about by the general’s +visit here will be, that we shall now have some little attention +<pb n="108"/><anchor id="Pg108"/>paid to health. A medical officer had been appointed as sanitary +officer, but his appointment, for any good it did, might +as well have never been made. It was not that this officer +failed in his duty, or that there was no need for his services; +on the contrary, the state of the watering arrangements was +disgraceful, the native troops washing, &c. in the pools above +those from which the drinking-water was taken. The water +certainly has to filter through the peat before it reaches the +other pools, but that is little satisfaction. It is true that this +was against orders, but the number of sentries posted was +quite insufficient, or else they winked at the proceedings of +their fellow-soldiers. I myself rode past half-a-dozen times, +and never without seeing native soldiers washing on the edge +of the pool. The latrine arrangements connected with the +10th Native Infantry hospital were also simply scandalous. +But worst of all was the state of the pass, dotted with dead +baggage-animals in every stage of decomposition, and the +stench from which was almost overpowering. The sanitary +officer had pointed out these evils, and had applied for power +to take on a few natives to burn the carcasses in the pass. +This suggestion, however, had been passed over as absurd, +and he might as well have been in Bombay. Nothing whatever +was done. General Staveley, however, restored this +officer to his proper place, and gave him authority to take on +the natives and burn the dead animals, which, had nothing +been done, were offensive enough to have created the worst +epidemic among the advancing troops. Other medical officers +have been appointed to take bands of coolies and clear +the different stages of this pass. The horse-disease still continues +very bad. Of the six horses brought up by the +general and the members of his staff, four were taken ill the +<pb n="109"/><anchor id="Pg109"/>day after his arrival here. They do not, however, appear to +have taken it in a virulent form, and will, I hope, get over +it. Yesterday being Christmas-day was of course kept with +all honour; that is to say, with such honours as could be +paid. It was hard to believe it was Christmas-day, especially +among native troops; to them, of course, it was no festival. +The day was fine and hot—the thermometer 75° in the shade, +but very hot where there was no shelter. I fastened a large +bunch of fir and of a plant somewhat resembling myrtle to +my tent-pole, and two or three of the other tents were similarly +decorated. One of the engineer officers had quite a +triumphal arch of green erected before his tent. Large circular +arbours were built up by the 10th Native Infantry and +by the 3d Cavalry, to serve as shelter from the wind while +they sat round the fire after dinner. I was invited by the +3d Native Cavalry to take my Christmas dinner with them, +and a capital dinner it was under the circumstances. Two +huge bunches of fir were fastened to the tent-poles, the table +was formed of the lids of packing-cases, and we sat round +upon boxes and chairs of every height and make. Here was +a man on a seat so low that his chin hardly appeared above +the table; next to him one perched up so high that his knees +were on a level with his plate. Nor were the fittings of the +table less various. It was the camp rule that everyone +should bring his own plates, knives, forks, and glasses. +Some of us therefore fed off tin, some off crockery, some +off enamelled iron. Some drank from glasses, some from +pewter-pots. The only uniformity was in the bottle of +champagne placed before each diner. Most of us would, I +think, have preferred beer; but there was not a bottle left in +the camp, and the champagne before us had been hoarded for +<pb n="110"/><anchor id="Pg110"/>this sacred occasion. The dinner was various. Mutton and +guinea-fowl; spur-fowl and venison; but, whatever we ate, +everyone present religiously took a piece of the joint of roast +beef. It was the only reminder of the occasion. I need not +say how heartily each joined in the toast of <q>All friends at +home.</q> +</p> + +<p> +I start this afternoon on my way down the pass again to +Zulla, and shall carry this letter down to post there, as the +ridiculous arrangements to which I have before alluded still +prevail. A native still creeps up and down the pass with a +bag on his back, and takes his four or five days to do the +seventy miles, whereas two relays of men on mules or ponies +would bring the bag down in fifteen hours easily. As it is, +no one knows whether they will be in time to catch a post or +not. In fact, it is a pure haphazard proceeding. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Zulla, Annesley Bay, January 2d, 1868"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Zulla, Annesley Bay, January 2d, 1868"/> + +<dateline>Zulla, Annesley Bay, January 2d, 1868.</dateline> + +<p> +I have been now three days back in Zulla, which is literally +crowded with troops. In respect to the pass, nothing +could be more surprising than the change which has taken +place in the road during the fortnight which has elapsed since +I first passed up. This is due to the way in which the sappers +and miners, under officers of the Royal Engineers, and +the advanced companies of the Beloochees, under Major Hogg, +have worked. The latter are at work in the valley below the +Rayray Guddy pass, and here they make very nearly a mile +of road a day, along which artillery might be taken without +difficulty. It is wonderful to see the change which they have +effected, and the hearty way in which they work. Not less +surprising is the change which the sappers and miners have +<pb n="111"/><anchor id="Pg111"/>effected in the Sooro Gorge. When I last rode up it, it was, +as I described it, all but impracticable for loaded animals. +One had to clamber over a huge boulder here, to scramble +through between two others there. It was a really difficult +proceeding, and loaded camels were unable to get through +the narrow places. Now all this is changed. A path winds +here and there among the rocks, down which I was able to +ride my horse without the smallest difficulty. The worst part +of the journey was the passage of the thirty-three miles between +Rayray Guddy and Sooro, without water, except a +bucket of pea-soup-coloured stuff at Guinea-fowl Plain for +the animals. It is proposed to sink more wells at this point, +to put up some pumps, and to establish a small commissariat +dépôt, in order that troops may break their march there. As +we rode down this dry parched valley for thirty miles, occasionally +meeting detachments of weary men, who asked us +pitifully how far it was to water, we could not help thinking +of one of Colonel Phayre’s reports, in which he stated, +<q>From Sooro to Senafe, about thirty miles more, water +never fails.</q> The fact being, not one single drop is to be +found in the thirty miles above Sooro, save at one muddy +well. +</p> + +<p> +At Koomaylo I found an astonishing change. The thorn-trees +which had lined the bottom of the valley had been all +cut down; a large space had been cleared as a camping-ground +for troops as they march through; fresh wells have been sunk, +and there are some of the American pumps at work, discharging +a stream of clear water, which, flowing through a succession +of tubs, enables the animals to be watered in one quarter +the time formerly occupied. These pumps, which are called +<q>the Douglas pitcher-spout pump,</q> are certainly admirable +<pb n="112"/><anchor id="Pg112"/>machines. When I had first heard of their arrival, and of +the principle of their construction, I had not thought it possible +that they could be used in such ground as this. They +consist of a number of thin iron tubes like gas-pipes, screwing +into each other, the lowest one terminating in a sharp spike +of slightly bulbous form, so that, being thicker than the rod +itself, it only touches the soil through which it is driven at +that point, thus greatly diminishing the friction and resistance. +On to the pipe, at about four feet from its upper end, +is screwed a block of iron, which can be shifted as the rod +gradually descends. A heavy weight of iron, with a hole +through it, is put on the rod above this block, and to this +weight ropes are attached working through pulleys placed on +the top of the rod four feet higher. Two men pull these +ropes, and the weight rises, and then falls, acting as a rammer +upon the anvil of iron below. In this manner the whole +rod is driven down, fresh lengths being added as required, +and then a pump is established without the labour of sinking +a well. The whole thing is simple in the extreme, and admirably +adapted for clay or gravel soils. It could, however, +hardly be expected to be successful in the bed of a torrent, +where the gravel is mixed with blocks of stone of every size, +as it is evident that a hollow pipe could not be driven through +solid rock. The tube, however, in nine cases out of ten, +pushes any obstacle aside, and reaches the required depth. +It is intended to arrange a series of troughs, so that the animals +may be enabled to drink upon their arrival without the weary +hour of waiting which they have now to go through. Indeed, +it is a wonder that serious accidents have not occurred owing to +the eagerness with which the maddened animals struggle and +fight to get to the water. At Koomaylo we found two +com<pb n="113"/><anchor id="Pg113"/>panies of the 33d regiment. They have since been joined +by another, and the three marched last night on their way to +Sooro. Three other companies of the same regiment marched +from here this morning, and will at once follow their advanced +wing, while the head-quarters and remaining companies go +on to-morrow. There is also a battery of the Royal Artillery +at Koomaylo, that is, the guns, and a portion of the men are +there, the horses and drivers having been sent up to Senafe +to be clear of the disease. I met them at Sooro, and the animals +were then all in splendid condition, and not a single +horse or baggage-animal was as yet affected. Great as I +had found the changes at other points along the line, the alterations +were as nothing to those which had taken place at +Zulla. The harbour contained more than double the number +of vessels that were here before. It is probable that hardly a +great commercial port in the world contains such a fine fleet +of steamers and sailing-transports as are now lying off this +place, of which no one had ever heard six months ago. The +camp, too, was so altered that I had the greatest difficulty in +finding the tent I was in search of, although it stood precisely +where I left it three weeks since. But the place, which then +contained under twenty tents, can now count ten times that +number. The 33d are encamped to the right of the landing-place, +at a quarter of a mile distant. General Staveley and +his staff have moved their tents from the spot where they before +stood, in the very centre of the dust and din of the place, +to a little beyond the 33d lines, where General Napier’s tents +are also pitched. The harbour is full of troops, who are clamouring +for carriage to enable them to get on. The Scinde +Horse are landing, as are the 3d Native Infantry. The 25th +Native Infantry and her Majesty’s 4th Foot are there, as are +<pb n="114"/><anchor id="Pg114"/>artillery batteries and mountain trains, as are mules and +horses innumerable, and a bewildering amount of stores. +Very large quantities of these latter are now being forwarded +to the front, and 3000 of the little cattle and donkeys of the +natives have been engaged upon the service. The price paid +is two and a quarter dollars per bag, and each bullock carries +two bags, some of the smaller donkeys taking one each. The +natives are responsible for any loss of stores, but up to the +time I left Senafe not one single bag had gone astray. These +animals are rather a nuisance to meet going down the pass. +Our own mules go in strings, one tied behind the other, and +the drivers, if one meets them, endeavour, as far as possible, +to make room for an officer to pass. The natives, on the +contrary, drive their animals in a herd before them, occupy +the whole width of the track, and make no effort whatever to +get their cattle out of the way. It is in vain shouting and +being angry. The Shohos regard one with placid indifference, +and you must push your horse into a thorn-thicket or +up a rock to get out of their way. If you happen to overtake +one of these native herds in rather a narrow place, it is still +more provoking, for there is nothing to do for it but to follow +patiently in their train for perhaps half-a-mile, half smothered +in the dust they raise, until the valley opens, and you are able +to leave the path, and get past them among the stones and +scrub. These oxen are very small, but extremely hardy. +There is nothing for them in the way of forage all the way +up. All they have to eat are a few leaves from the bushes, +and such handfuls of grass as their masters may get for them +by climbing the sides of the hills, and yet they arrive at Senafe +in good condition and without signs of distress, with their +skin smooth, and their eyes bright. This accession of stores +<pb n="115"/><anchor id="Pg115"/>at Senafe is a great assistance. It is an addition to our stock +there, and it is a great relief to the transport corps to be able +to continue their regular work of forwarding regiments, and +stores for present consumption of man and beast. The transport +train is now doing its work very much better; but I +shall have more remarks to make upon them in my next. +Brigadier-general Collings started yesterday to take the +command at Senafe, and I expect to find that very material +changes have, in consequence, taken place there. Brigadier-general +Schneider has arrived here, and will take the command +at this landing-place. +</p> + +<p> +The great event of to-day is the arrival of Sir Robert +Napier, whose ship, her Majesty’s steam-ship Octavia, Captain +Colin Campbell, was signalled as about to enter the harbour +early this morning. The anchor was dropped at about +half-past ten, and General Staveley and the heads of departments +went off at once to see him. He is to disembark this +evening. As it is war-time, there was no salute or demonstration +upon the arrival of the ship. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Zulla, Jan. 6th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Zulla, Jan. 6th"/> + +<dateline>Zulla, Jan. 6th.</dateline> + +<p> +It is only after a ride or two round camp that one sees +how very great are the changes which have taken place in +the last three weeks. I do not know that anywhere in the +world could more objects of various interest, more life and +movement and bustle, be found than in a couple of hours’ +ride through this camp. Start we from the head of the +<hi rend="italic">bunder</hi>—in England called pier; but here everything has its +Indian name. The <hi rend="italic">bunder</hi> has, since I last wrote, been +lengthened a few yards, and has been widened at the end +<pb n="116"/><anchor id="Pg116"/>to a width of fifteen or twenty yards. On one side, too, +wooden piles have been driven down, so that the great landing +barges can lie safely alongside and discharge. It will +be a great thing when it is finished in the same way all +round the pier-head. Not very pleasant are one’s first steps +upon Abyssinian soil, for the pier is made of great rough +pieces of rock and pumice-stone, painful to walk upon, and +utterly destructive to boots. In spite of this the pier-head +is crowded. The hour at which we start upon our ride is +daybreak, and from daybreak until eight o’clock bathing is +allowed from the pier, as also from five to seven in the evening. +Here we have a number of figures, some dressing, +some undressing, some picking their way painfully over the +stones to their clothes, others in the act of plunging into +the water, which is at high tide seven feet deep. Around, +the sea is dotted with heads, many of which we recognise +and address. Here is a quartermaster-general, there a colonel +of infantry, next to whom is a drummer-boy, and beyond +a dozen privates. There is no distinction of rank here. +Everyone picks out the softest stone he can find to sit upon, +and cares nothing whether his next neighbour be a general +officer or a full private. We pick our way as well as we +can across this bit of rough ground and through the groups +of bathers, and then at ten yards from the head of the pier +we come upon smoother ground. Here is a line of rails, +and the surface has been smoothed by spreading sand over +it, an improvement which has only been completed two or +three days since. Before, a walk down the bunder was +certain destruction to any but the most iron-shod pair of +boots. By the side of the bunder, where the rail commences, +a large barge is lying. She has just come alongside, and +<pb n="117"/><anchor id="Pg117"/>fifty or sixty mules and ponies, her cargo, are looking over +her rail with excited eyes and restless inquiring ears at the +bustle on the quay, and at this land, which, although they +know it not, is destined to be the grave of many of them. +On the pier, awaiting their arrival, is one of the indefatigable +officers of the transport train. He has with him a +couple of men. A long gangway is laid from the barge, +which is much higher than the pier, down on to the stones; +on this are thrown some gunny-bags, and then the animals, +some coming readily enough, others resisting strenuously, +snorting and struggling, are led down. As they reach the +land their head-ropes are tied together in fours, and they +are sent off with their drivers to wait at the end of the +bunder until all are landed. It is not a long operation. Ten +minutes or so, and then an inspector takes them off, first +to the watering-troughs and then to the lines. Opposite +the landing-barge, on a vacant spot on the pier, a distilling +apparatus is at work. This machine, I believe, partly supplies +the sailing-ships, and also the wants of the fatigue-parties +at work on the pier. Next to the barge lie two native +boats discharging stores, which a fatigue-party are loading +into the trucks, under the direction of the officers of the +quartermaster’s or commissariat departments. As soon as +the trucks are loaded, a party of Soumalis seize them and +push them along the track to the yard, shouting their universal +chorus as they do so. Next to the native craft unloading +are a number of boats belonging to the ships in +harbour, and which are either supplied to one of the departments, +or are waiting while their skippers are on shore. On +the opposite side of the pier the water is more shallow, and +boats never come in here, but it is by no means empty at +<pb n="118"/><anchor id="Pg118"/>present, for there are a couple of hundred men bathing all +along—less adventurous spirits, who do not care for the +plunge into deep water, or for walking <anchor id="corr118"/><corr sic="ever">over</corr> pumice-stones +with naked feet. +</p> + +<p> +When we get to the end of the bunder we mount our +horses, which our gorrawallahs have been holding, and we +follow the line of rails. As soon as we are fairly ashore, we +find great piles of stores lying by the rails. These belong +to the land transport stores. Hundreds of great cases, +each containing four Otago mule-saddles. Piles of Bombay +pads and of camel-saddles. Their other stores are sent up +to their own lines, a quarter of a mile farther; but the +heavy saddles have not been sent there, as the line has only +been opened to that point during the last two days, and it +is much easier to bring the mules down and to saddle them +here than it is to take the heavy cases on farther. There +is a saddling-party at work now. It consists of a fatigue-party +of artillery, directed by an officer of the transport +corps. A Chinese carpenter opens the cases. Two of the +men lift the contents out, and cut the lashings which secure +each separate article of the fittings together. Others stand +round and fit the saddles together—no easy task, for they +are extremely complicated. This, however, is not of so +much consequence as it would otherwise be, for, once put +together, they do not require much subsequent unstrapping. +Others then put the saddles and bridles on to the mules, +some of which object most strongly to the operation, pull +back violently, turn round and round as fast as the man +with the saddle approaches, and lash out with a steady power +which, exerted in any other way, would be highly satisfactory. +In vain the soldiers try to keep them steady. In +<pb n="119"/><anchor id="Pg119"/>vain pat, coax, strike, and swear. In vain they strap up +one of the fore-legs. Some of the beasts are quite unmanageable, +and are only subdued by strapping up a leg, +and then keeping them going round and round upon the +other three until quite exhausted. The cases of the saddlery +are broken up, and spread out upon the ground to pile bags +of rice or grain upon—no unnecessary precaution, for a +high tide the other night wetted an immense quantity of +hay, and the stores have been since shifted farther inland. +The engineers had constructed a sort of sand-wall to prevent +the recurrence of such an event; but they calculated +without their host. They fortified against the enemy in front, +but made no account of him in the rear. The consequence +was that in the heavy rain of Saturday night the water +came rushing down from behind, and being prevented flowing +into the sea by this dam, again created a small flood, +but this time of fresh water, in the commissariat yard. The +commissariat yard when I was last here stood where the +transport yard now stands, but it is now shifted more to the +left. The reason of this was that the commissariat stores, +the bundles of compressed hay and the bags of rice and +grain, are not too heavy to be carried ashore by the natives, +while the heavy cases of the transport corps necessarily +were put in the cars. The commissariat stores are therefore +principally landed in native boats, which come into +three-foot water, and from which lines of wading Soumalis +bear them to land. The heavier stores, such as barrels of +rum and ghee, are of course landed on the bunder and +brought up on the trucks. Everywhere about the end of +the pier is bustle. Here are a party of Madras coolies moving +stores. There are a hundred mules just starting with +<pb n="120"/><anchor id="Pg120"/><anchor id="corr120"/><corr sic="provisons">provisions</corr> for the front. Here come a detachment of one +of the regiments to take charge of some of their baggage +just being landed. Everywhere an energetic officer of the +various departments directing the operations. We now ride +on. Leaving the line of rails we turn to the right, bearing +gradually away from the sea. The first group of tents +we come upon are those of the officers of the land transport. +They will not be there long, however, for they have +orders to shift over to the other side, where the lines of +their animals are five minutes’ walk away, and at the extreme +right of the camp. Did these officers’ duties lie +principally at their lines, there would be some reason for +this; but as it is, they are either on the bunder landing +horses, or else saddling down by the shore. The duties +of looking after the animals in their lines have of course +to be generally supervised by an officer from each division, +but are under the charge of English inspectors, who are +sergeants in cavalry or line regiments. The lines, being to +leeward of the camp, are constantly enveloped in a cloud +of blinding dust, so thick that one cannot see fifty yards. +To live in such an atmosphere is next to impossible, especially +when delicately scented by the odour of the three or +four thousand mules, ponies, and oxen, to say nothing of +the native attendants close at hand. The former spot where +they were encamped was only five minutes’ walk distant, +and to insist upon these officers living and working close +by their lines is about as reasonable as an order would be +for the officers of the Life Guards to sleep in their stables. +I am convinced that General Schneider will have to revoke +his order, for it will be simply impossible to keep books or +accounts in a dust which would be two inches thick in five +<pb n="121"/><anchor id="Pg121"/>minutes upon everything; and although an officer’s comfort +or health may be a very trifling matter, anything which +might be an obstacle to his returning the necessary number +of reports and statements will be certain to be considered.<note place="foot">It was not for some months after this date that the transport officers +were allowed to move their camp to a more habitable spot.</note> +Riding through the transport officers’ lines, we come upon +a line of tents occupied by the medical staff. Then comes +a gap, and then we enter the lines of the European regiments, +at present occupied by portions of the 33d and 4th +infantry and artillery. Its appearance bears little resemblance +to that presented by a regiment under canvas at +home. The tents are of an entirely different shape; they +are single-poled tents, and are perhaps fifteen feet square. +They have canvas walls of nearly six feet high, so that one +can stand upright anywhere. Above the tent itself is a +cover, which extends over it and projects three feet beyond +the walls, making the tent double over the roof, and forming +an awning around it. About eight inches is left between +the two roofs for the circulation of air. These tents +are in their way perfect, but they are extremely heavy, and +will be left here, and the troops will take up with them tents +known as native <q>routies</q>—I do not guarantee the spelling +of this or any other native word—which I shall describe +hereafter. Not less than the tents do the men differ +from the European standard. The gray suits of karkee—a +sort of stout jean—and the ugly helmets of the same material, +look like anything rather than the garb of the British +soldier. Then, too, the arrangement of the camp looks unfamiliar, +for the tents are placed far asunder. This is necessitated +by the great length of the ropes of the tent. Here, +<pb n="122"/><anchor id="Pg122"/>too—strange sight in an English camp—interspersed among +the tents are queer bowers of shrubs, covered with gunny-bags, +old sacks, and other odds and ends. Round these +bowers squat swarthy figures scantily clothed. These are +the camp-followers, the attendants on the British soldier; +these their abodes. These men draw his water, pitch his +tents, sweep out his camp—in fact, perform all the work +which a soldier in England does for himself. In India the +soldier is a valuable animal. He is valued at one hundred +pounds, and is too costly to be risked by doing hard work in +the sun. He is kept for fighting only, and it is very right +that it should be so. It has been questioned whether it +would not have been better to have brought soldiers direct +from England, who are accustomed to rough it for themselves. +There is much to be said upon the subject, to which +I shall some day revert, but at present I am inclined to +think that in this respect the authorities have judged rightly, +for judging by the 102° which the thermometer marked here +in the shade on New Year’s-day, we shall have a more than +Indian heat—that is, those down upon this plain will—in +the middle of summer, and although the heat in the interior +will probably be nothing to what it will be here, there can +be no doubt that the less men are exposed to it the better. +But we must continue our ride. +</p> + +<p> +Just behind the European lines, that is, between them +and the sea, is a line of tents, some of which are of large +size, and by the side of one of these the British ensign is +flying. These are the tents of the head-quarters staff. We +turn our backs on this and gallop across the European lines, +that is, inland. There is an unoccupied space of perhaps +four hundred yards, and then we come upon a camp of +<pb n="123"/><anchor id="Pg123"/>quite different aspect from the last. Here the tents are +ranged in two lines, and are placed quite close together, +that is, with not more than three or four yards between +them. The neat and orderly appearance of these lines of +tents shows to all the greater advantage after the straggling +look of the European lines. These tents are routies. They +are large double-poled tents, single, but lined with blue +bunting. The tents, like the English bell-tents, reach nearly +to the ground, with only a wall of about eighteen inches in +height. The opening is at one end, and extends from the +pole downwards. This is, for a climate like the present, a +great drawback, for the opening is very large and cannot +be closed. In a hot climate this would matter but little; +but for a country with heavy dews and cold nights in winter, +and with heavy downpours in the rainy season, it is a very +serious disadvantage. Opposite the long line of the routies +are the mess and officers’ tents. There are two regiments +camped in these lines, or, more properly, portions of two +regiments. The men on duty look more like England than +the European troops had done, for they are all in their +scarlet tunics and black trousers. It is only the headgear +which is different. The 3d Native Infantry have blue puggaries +round their forage-caps. The 25th Native Infantry +have green. The 10th Native Infantry wear white puggaries, +and the Sappers and Miners black, and this acts as an easily-distinguished +mark between the various native regiments. They +all wear the regulation tunic and trousers, but vary the puggary +or cap-cover according to the taste of their commander. +When I say they all wear the British uniform, I mean that +the old sepoy regiments do so. Some of those who have only +been admitted among the regular Indian army of late years, +<pb n="124"/><anchor id="Pg124"/>such as the Beloochees, wear quite different uniforms. I +have omitted to state that in our ride between the 33d and +Native Infantry camps, we passed through some artillery; +but these, as well as the sappers and miners, and the ordnance +commissary tents—which, with the telegraph, railway, +and other departments, are pitched near the line of +railway—I must reserve for another letter. We are only +making a tour of the outside of the camp upon the present +occasion. Riding on through the native infantry lines, and +crossing a few hundred yards of open ground, we come to +the bazaar, which is on the main road to Koomaylo. The +bazaar is certainly not much to look at. Two or three dozen +tents, composed of rough poles covered with matting, constitute +it. As there are no windows to any of these establishments, +it is unnecessary to state that there is no display +of goods. There is an open doorway through which any intending +purchaser enters, and asks for anything he desires. +If it is kept there a box is opened and the article produced, +if not he goes into the next shop. There is a guard of +European soldiers at the entrance to the bazaar to keep +order, and their services are not unfrequently called into +requisition. During the last part of our ride we have fairly +got into the dust, which hangs over Zulla in a sort of lurid +cloud, and entirely shuts off all the view, even the nearest +hills from the harbour. This dust is terrible. It fills the +eyes, mouth, and nostrils, and equals the dust on the Champ +de Mars in Paris, which I had hitherto considered unrivalled +in the world. Sometimes the wind blows steadily, +and then there is one great uniform swoop of dust; at other +times it seems to lull for a while, and then from three or +four spots a straight column ascends, such as burning piles +<pb n="125"/><anchor id="Pg125"/>of green wood upon a calm day might produce. These +columns will remain stationary for three or four minutes, +and then move rapidly along, and woe to the unfortunate +tents over which they may pass, for they will make a clean +sweep of every light object, and will leave three inches +deep of sand on everything. In camp phraseology, these +little whirlwinds are called devils. Passing from the bazaar, +still moving as before in the arc of a circle, we come upon +the railroad. The railroad has made far less progress in +the last month than anything else here has done; at this +rate it will not be near Koomaylo by next Christmas. I +do not hesitate to say that ten English navvies would have +done very much more in the same time; and as for the +Army Works Corps, which we had in the Crimea, they +would have half-finished it to Koomaylo. But this delay +is due to no want of zeal on the part of those who have the +direction of it, but simply a want of method, and of materials, +which are, no doubt, somewhere on board ship, but +cannot be got at. Just at this part we pass under some +poles with a fine copper wire extending between them. This +is the telegraph, which in a very short time will be open +to Koomaylo, and thence will be pushed on in a week or +so, for the wire is at all the stations along the line of march; +and it would have been completed to Senafe by this time +were it not that the poles have not come to hand, from +some reason or other. +</p> + +<p> +We now are approaching the lines of the transport animals. +This is the most interesting sight in the whole camp. +Here are long lines of ponies, just arrived from Suez. Next +to them are hundreds of mules of all nations and breeds. +Here are the cart-mules, and 200 light carts, to be drawn +<pb n="126"/><anchor id="Pg126"/>by one or two animals, are ranged near them. Beyond them +are the baggage-mules, 600 in number. All of them have +arrived during the last two or three days; many of them +have not yet been saddled, for the unpacking and fitting +together of the saddles is a long and tedious operation. Many +of the mules are not even branded. Beyond them, again, +come the draught-oxen, with their carts. They are the same +beautiful white Brahmin cattle which I saw at Bombay—enormous +animals, as strong as camels and quiet and docile +as sheep. Near them are ranged their carts, which are of +altogether different construction from those for the mules. On +the ground under the feet of all these animals is scattered +a thick layer of chopped straw and hay, and their condition +and state afford as strong a contrast as can possibly be conceived +to that of the famished, dying animals I described +in the letter I wrote upon landing a month since. This extraordinary +improvement must be assigned to the immense +efforts which all the officers of the Transport Corps have +made, and especially to those of Captain Twentyman, of the +18th Hussars, who during that period has been in command. +But even the exertion of all these officers would have been +in vain had it not been for the strong and cordial assistance +which General Staveley has given to Captain Twentyman. +Every suggestion made by the latter has been indorsed and +ordered to be carried out by the general, who is fully alive +to the fact that the Transport Corps is the all-important +branch of the expedition. The animals are all picketed by +their head-ropes to long lines of picket-rope, but no heel-ropes +are used. Certainly the use of heel-ropes adds greatly +to the uniformity of the appearance of picketed animals, as +they all retain the same distance from each other and from +<pb n="127"/><anchor id="Pg127"/>the ropes, and there is also the advantage that they cannot +kick each other or any passer-by. On the other hand, +it may be said that mules seldom or never do set to and +kick when picketed. I have seen no instance of their so +doing; and I understand from the transport officer that there +have been no cases of mules being injured by kicks received +when picketed. The advantages of their not having foot-ropes +are that they have much greater freedom of position. +They can lie down, get up, and move across the +rope, and, in fact, stretch their tired limbs far better than +they can when they are confined by foot-ropes; and, lastly, +the mules are not accustomed to the ropes, and frequently +get sore fetlocks from their use. The balance of advantages +is, then, in favour of allowing them to remain picketed only +by their head-ropes, especially as the fastening by the heel-rope +involves driving in pegs and loss of time in roping—matters +of importance when a train arrives late at night +with drivers and animals alike jaded and fatigued. The +whole of the animals are now in fair working condition, with +the exception only of about 200 camels, which are out at +Hadoda, where they were sent to recruit, having arrived in +too bad a condition to be set to work. There were more +sent out, but some have returned to work, others have died—many +of pure starvation, although there were stores of +grain lying at Weir, within two or three miles, literally +rotting. But the custom is not to give camels grain, but +allow them to get their livelihood by plucking a few leaves +from the shrubs. It is not to be wondered at, then, that +the poor beasts gained no strength. This will now be remedied, +for Dr. Lamb, one of the veterinary surgeons of +the Transport Corps, has reported that they are dying of +<pb n="128"/><anchor id="Pg128"/>pure starvation; and I understand that General Staveley at +once ordered that grain should be issued to them. +</p> + +<p> +In my next letter I shall describe the organisation of +the Transport Corps; but at present we must continue our +ride, which is now nearly over, for we have almost completed +our circle, and are again approaching the sea-shore. +We pass on our way some strange bower-like structures, +whose progress I have watched for the last few days with +some curiosity. I first saw three or four long lines of sand, +which were carefully levelled, and were four or five yards +wide, and perhaps fifty yards long. By each side of these +lines of sand coolies were engaged sticking rods, about the +same length, but thinner, than hop-poles. I could not even +guess the object of these lines. Next day I found that poles +had been stuck in across the ends, and that at distances of +four yards across partitions had been made. Riding close, +I saw that in the side row a gap was left as a doorway to +each of these partitions. The next day I found that thinner +rods were being fastened to the tops of the others—along +which horizontal pieces had been tied—and that these were +being bent over and twined in the centre, so as to form a +bower. The mystery was now explained. These long rows +of poles were the framework for rows of huts; bushes are +to be entwined between them, and the whole, when finished, +will accommodate, or rather hold, five hundred of the commissariat +coolies, for whom they are destined. We now +trot on to the watering-place. The last time I was here +it was one of the most painful sights I ever witnessed to +see the animals watered. They were formed in lines near +the miserable little troughs, and were with the greatest difficulty +kept back until these were full. Half maddened with +<pb n="129"/><anchor id="Pg129"/>thirst as they were, it was a service of real danger to restrain +them, and when they were allowed to rush forward +it was too often to find that there was scarcely a mouthful +of water each. It was no wonder that they screamed and +struggled and fought. It was a battle for life, in which +the victors moved off unsatisfied, but with sufficient water +to enable them to live until the next scanty supply was issued, +while the vanquished dragged themselves away to die. +Thank God this is over now. There is plenty of water for +all. I do not think an animal in this camp has an insufficiency +of water. The trough is long and wide, and the +animals advance on each side and drink as much as they +desire. The times for watering them is from six to eight +in the morning, and from four to six of an evening. A +strong fatigue-party are present to pump the water from +the tank into the trough, and to keep order. They are +ordered to leave the trough full when they cease pumping, +so that any animal which may arrive late may not be deprived +of its drink. +</p> + +<p> +We have now only to ride along the shore for another +300 yards to arrive at the commissariat stores on the left of +the bunder, from which we started. Here everything is +excellently arranged and managed. The great piles of stores +are covered with tarpaulins and old sails to keep off the rain; +and as it was impossible to procure stones to form a foundation +for the sacks, and to keep them clear of the damp, +broken-up packing-cases were laid down first on the sand, +then empty sacks, and then bales of hay from Bombay, which +is much more bulky and less valuable than the compressed +hay from England. No damage of any great extent can +therefore ensue from the heaviest flood. There are two very +<pb n="130"/><anchor id="Pg130"/>large wooden stores, in which articles readily damageable by +rain are housed; and there are two very large framework +buildings erected, which only require the corrugated iron-plates. +</p> + +<p> +Nearly opposite the commissariat a long wooden jetty is +in course of erection. It is already completed for a considerable +distance; but the water is so shallow, that it will +have to be carried very much further out before boats can +come alongside to load. +</p> + +<p> +We have now completed our circular ride round the +camp; and I must leave the camps and dépôts lying in the +interior of the circle until another occasion, for I have not +yet touched upon the immediate news of the day. +</p> + +<p> +General Napier landed yesterday morning at half-past +seven. A guard of honour of the 4th regiment was drawn +up at the end of the pier, and the various generals here, with +their staffs, and the heads of the different departments, received +him. I had heard that he was going to land earlier, +and went down to the waterside just at daylight. +</p> + +<p> +Everything was quiet then, and not a breath of wind +ruffled the water. Presently there was a sign of life in the +men-of-war, the Octavia, Serapis, and Argus. Men began +to climb the rigging, and to fasten man-lines above the +yards. Then they came down again, and all was quiet on +board the men-of-war; but the merchant-vessels were now +making a move, and the native boats were putting off towards +the ships they were told off to discharge. In the mean time +the guard of honour and the officers took their places at the +head of the bunder. Now a signal is run up to the mast-head +of the Octavia, and, as if by magic, a crowd of white +figures leap up the shrouds of the men-of-war, and run out +<pb n="131"/><anchor id="Pg131"/>upon the yards. Another minute of silence, and then a boat +with an awning pulls out from the after-side of the Octavia, +and a few seconds afterwards the thunder of her guns tells +us that the Chief of the invading army has left the ship. +Three minutes later the little guns of the mountain train +proclaim that he has landed; the band strikes up <q>God save +the Queen,</q> the troops salute, and Sir Robert Napier has +taken command of the forces here. +</p> + +<p> +After all, this is more a ceremony than a reality, for the +General has been ashore examining into all that was going on +every day since he came into harbour. There is a great +feeling of satisfaction at his arrival, as, in the first place, +he is a most popular chief, and in the next, nothing definite +could be decided upon as to the movements of troops or on +the plan of the campaign until he arrived. The <hi rend="italic">on dit</hi> now +is that no more troops will be sent forward at present, but +that the whole efforts of the transport corps and commissariat +will be devoted to accumulating a six months’ stock of +provisions at Senafe. The 33d have already gone on; but it +is now probable that no other regiment will move for another +fortnight. +</p> + +<p> +We have at last authentic news from the interior. A +letter has arrived from the prisoners, dated Dec. 15th (I can +hardly understand how, at the Shoho rate of travelling, it can +have come so fast), in which they report that the King of +Shoa, who was besieging Magdala, and upon whose assistance +Colonel Merewether had built much, has retired from before +the place, and that it is now open to Theodore. This is certainly +bad news. Not that I have ever put the smallest trust +in the assistance of any of these kinglings. On the contrary, +I think that the policy which has been hitherto pursued with +<pb n="132"/><anchor id="Pg132"/>respect to the natives has been a mistake. We should have +never asked for alliance or friendship. We are perfectly +strong enough to go on by ourselves, and were we not it is +certain that we could place no reliance upon any professions +of friendship. Why, then, make the natives think we are +weak by asking for allies? Say firmly to each king, <q>We +are going on through your country to fetch the prisoners +beyond. We are perfectly strong enough to do this, and +anything beside which may be necessary. We go through +and return without making any stay. In your country are +many kings and many rivals. We need no assistance, and +we know that if we enter into alliance with one chief we gain +the enmity of another by so doing. We wish not, therefore, +to enter into any alliance whatever. We are friends passing +through your country. We require stores, cattle, &c., and +we mean to have them; but we pay for everything we require, +and that at prices which the imagination of the herd-and +flock-owner of Abyssinia never before conceived even in +his wildest dreams.</q> +</p> + +<p> +There are numerous rumours current in camp that the +chiefs are forming an alliance against us, and that they intend +to put their forces in motion to attack us. But of all +this I cannot say that I believe one word. Nor do I consider +it a matter of importance one way or another, for if they do +come they will go away again at a vastly greater rate of speed +than they advance, and will be very much more civil afterwards. +After the landing of the Chief yesterday I went on +board the Gomta, which has brought in nineteen elephants +from Bombay, in charge of Captain Annesley, of the Land +Transport Train. They all arrived in excellent condition, +having been perfectly well during the whole voyage, except +<pb n="133"/><anchor id="Pg133"/>for two days, when there was a strong wind, which made +them very unhappy. The debarkation was to begin directly +the Commander-in-chief had landed. Accordingly, a party +of sailors and marines came on board from the Octavia. The +tackle had been already fixed, and the barge was alongside. +It had been at first proposed that the animals should have +been lowered over the ship’s side into the water, and allowed +to swim ashore; but the difficulty in relieving them of the +slings would have been so great that it was determined, at +any rate, to make the experiment with the barge. The +animals were down in the hold, which was amply high +enough even for the largest of them. They were ranged +along on either side, with strong beams between each. They +could lie down or stand up as they pleased. The operation +of landing them was superintended by Captain Annesley, +and by one of the officers of the Octavia. Large blocks +were attached to the mainyard, which was strengthened by +extra stays. One of the animals who was in the stall immediately +under the hatchway was selected for the first experiment. +The first difficulty consisted in getting the sling +which was of the strongest canvas, with strong ropes along +each side, under him. It was laid down upon the ground, +and the mahout endeavoured to back the animal over it. +Again and again he got him into the right position, but +the instant the sailors pulled to the cords to lift up the sling +the elephant made a rush forward. At last Sergeant Evans, +who is one of the first-class inspectors in the transport train, +succeeded in getting the sling under him in his stall, and then +getting on his back, backed him under the blocks, the sailors +keeping the sling in its place until they could get the hooks +fast. Even then all was not finished, for the alarmed +<pb n="134"/><anchor id="Pg134"/>elephant continued trumpeting, and endeavouring to rush +back to his stall. Sergeant Evans managed to get the +breast- and hind-ropes fast, and then all that remained was +for the men on deck to work the capstan. The fife struck +up, and the elephant, protesting strongly but uselessly, was +gradually lifted off his feet. Once in the air the great beast’s +strength was useless, and he swung an inert mass, except that +as he went through the hatchway he got his hind-feet against +it, and pushed with so much force, that it was feared for an +instant that he would push himself head foremost out of the +slings. In another minute, however, he rose above the hatchway, +and was now beyond the possibility of doing himself or +anyone else any harm. Up he rose, higher and higher, and +then he was swung clear of the bulwarks, and lowered down +into the barge. Here his mahout and attendant received him, +stroked his trunk, and soothed him, and he allowed his slings +to be taken off quietly, and stood quite tranquil until two more +of his companions were raised from the hold and lowered to +his side. Thus far nothing could be more satisfactory. Some +of the others who landed later in the day gave more trouble, +and had it not been for Sergeant Evans there would have been +very great difficulty with them; but he is, without exception, +the most resolute and fearless fellow I ever saw at work. +Had it not been for him it is questionable whether the +elephants would have been got on board at Bombay on the +day fixed for their embarkation, and he was raised from the +position of a third-class to that of a first-class inspector on +the spot for his gallantry. +</p> + +<p> +When these animals were on the barge it was determined +to disembark them before lowering others down, in order to see +whether they would walk on to the pier. A steam launch +<pb n="135"/><anchor id="Pg135"/>accordingly took the barge in tow, and steamed away to the +landing-place. These little steam launches are the most +handy and useful things here; no matter how large the barge +or how long the string of laden boats, one of these little craft +seizes upon it and rushes off with it without the slightest +difficulty. On arriving at the wharf I saw at once that we +should have a difficulty. The naval authorities who had +charge of the landing had entirely disregarded the nature +and instincts of the animals; and every child who has ever +read anything at all about an elephant has heard that these +clumsy-looking animals can get up and down the most difficult +places, but that they have an invincible objection to +trusting themselves upon any platform or bridge, and can +only be induced to do so after many experiments as to its +strength. The barge was nearly four feet above the level of +the pier, and as the sides of the latter slanted somewhat, the +side of the barge was distant about a foot from the jetty. But +an elephant would have got down this as easily as a man +would have done. Instead of allowing him to do this, some +rails which had been landed for the line were put from the +shore to the barge, the gangway used by the mules placed +upon this, and the elephants were required to walk down. +They naturally objected, especially as they were not allowed +to pause and examine it, but were urged to walk straight on. +This they refused pointblank to do, in spite of the efforts of +the mahout, and the shoving and striking of the attendants +behind them. They would not advance, but lay down to express +their determination. At last one of them, on being forced +close to the gangway, kneeled down, and with his head gave +the whole structure a push which moved it several inches. +He then stood up and walked away, having proved to his +<pb n="136"/><anchor id="Pg136"/>own satisfaction that we must be fools to expect an animal +his size to walk along such a rickety structure as that. Still +the heads of the debarkation were loth to give up their favourite +idea of a platform. The gangway was taken away, +and the marines and sailors brought rails and laid them tier +on tier, gridiron-fashion, and placed the gangway on that; +and thus having formed a sort of step or platform two feet +high, they invited the elephants to step on to it. Again the +elephants positively declined, and everything was again tried +except patience, the one thing needed. Fortunately, just as +the naval authorities were variously discussing the necessity +of again slinging the animals and lowering them into the sea, +to walk ashore, Captain Moore, interpreter to the Commander-in-chief, +appeared upon the scene. At his suggestion the +animals were allowed to approach quietly and to kneel down +and inspect and try the structure upon which they were to +trust themselves; and in another quarter of an hour they +were all three safely landed. +</p> + +<p> +An order of the day appeared yesterday thanking the +pioneer force and Colonel Field at Senafe for their efforts. +There are many remarks down here upon the fact that while +the officers and men who marched up to Senafe, and have +passed a comparatively quiet and pleasant time up there, have +been thanked, there should be no word of praise for the men +who have been working almost night and day down here. If +any praise was to be given, it has certainly been earned by +the men who have borne the heat and burden of the bad +times at Zulla. This morning the mountain-guns, made at +Woolwich, were out for practice. These guns have been fully +described in the columns of the English press, I need not +therefore enter into any details. The practice with shell was +<pb n="137"/><anchor id="Pg137"/>very fair, the little guns throwing the shell, which are nearly +half their own length, with great precision, at 2000 yards. +They appeared to me, however, to throw rather to the right. +The troops were also out at exercise, and an order has been +issued that all the regiments shall go for a march out every +morning. This is as it should be: it will keep the men in +health, and prepare them, to a certain extent, for the hard +work they will probably have to go through when they once +start. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Zulla, January 19th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Zulla, January 19th"/> + +<dateline>Zulla, January 19th.</dateline> + +<p> +This has been a week altogether barren of events. No +move of any kind has been made, or is at all likely to be +made, for another fortnight at the very earliest. The transport +train is exclusively employed in taking provisions to the +front, and this is a very tedious process. The mules and +ponies carry nominally a burden of two hundred pounds +each, the camels four hundred pounds; but there are very +few indeed of the former capable of bearing their proper +burden, and I think I may say not one of the latter. Were +an attempt to be made to load them to their full weight, the +result would be that one-third of the animals at least would +break down in the first two miles. A great number of animals +are in hospital; but a vastly-greater proportion are still +able to perform a certain amount of work, but nothing like +their full quota. These are afflicted with coughs and lung-affections, +which will, sooner or later, bring them into hospital, +and thence to their graves, the victims of overwork, +when in a weakened state, from irregular and scanty supplies +of food and water. The transport train is at present so +essentially the corps upon which the movements of the army +depend, that it will not be out of place if I explain at some +<pb n="138"/><anchor id="Pg138"/>little length the constitution and duties of the corps and its +officers. The transport train is commanded by Major Warden, +and is divided into fourteen divisions, each of which, +when complete, contains two thousand animals and twelve +hundred men, including drivers, farriers and smiths, saddlers, +&c. Each division is commanded by a captain, who has two +subalterns. He has four inspectors or sergeant-majors, two +second-class inspectors, sergeants; five third-class inspectors, +corporals—all European soldiers. He also has two second +inspectors and five third inspectors—natives; and one hundred +native soldiers, who are supposed to act as assistants. +</p> + +<p> +It will be seen that each division is as strong as three +cavalry regiments; it is composed entirely of drivers collected +hastily from all parts, Egyptians, Arabs, Italians, +Greeks, Hindoos, &c.—all men without the smallest conception +of military discipline; and to manage this vast body of +men and animals there are a captain and two officers, and +eleven white noncommissioned officers. Were each division +stationary, or did it move in a body together, the task would +be comparatively easy; but it is scattered over the pass, in +convoys of from 200 down to little parties of twos and fours, +with officers’ baggage. The rules which have been drawn up +for the regulation of the corps are admirable on paper, but +utterly impracticable on service. Each native soldier is supposed +to have control over twelve drivers and twenty-five +mules, and is himself amenable to a head muccadum, or +fourth inspector, he to a third, the third to the second, &c. +<q>Each man in charge of a squad is to see that every animal +brought in from duty is groomed, has the feet picked and +cleaned, the provender put before him, the back well sponged +with hot water.</q> <q>The saddles will invariably, when taken +<pb n="139"/><anchor id="Pg139"/>off the animals, be placed upside down to dry, pads towards +the sun, and afterwards neatly piled up with the equipments +affixed to each, in rear of each squad, dressing from the right +of the line.</q> All these, and many similar rules, are admirable +in theory; utterly impracticable in the field. A convoy +arrives late at night. Its first task is to unload, and then to +place food before the animals, and to water them if water is +attainable; then drivers and animals lie down alike exhausted, +and grooming, picking feet, and arranging equipments, +dressing from the right, are alike unheeded. The +officers of this corps have an almost impossible amount of +work to get through. They are supposed to see their animals +watered, to parade those which have to start, to see them fed, +to see them groomed, to examine their backs, to see that the +numerous convoys start at the right time, to look after the +polyglot variety of drivers, most of them speaking Arabic, +and other unknown tongues. Then they have to look after +the native soldiers, to send in reports innumerable, and to +keep office-books; they have to perform quartermaster duties +and paymaster duties; they have the pay-sheets, family-payment +rolls, returns of stores, equipments, defaulter-sheets, &c. +to make out with their own hands, unless they take one of +the few European inspectors from his work to act as clerk. +<q>They are further responsible for the good order and condition +of the cattle, and the due preservation and completeness +of their equipments, and must see that each individual soldier, +noncommissioned officer and inspector, does his work.</q> In +addition to all this, at present they have to be on the pier, +seeing the animals landed, and to inspect the putting together +and fittings of the saddles and equipments, and the issue of +warm clothing to the drivers. +</p> + +<pb n="140"/><anchor id="Pg140"/> + +<p> +This is a slight sketch of the duties which these three +officers have to perform for 2000 animals and 1200 men, +with half-a-dozen European noncommissioned officers to +assist them. The inspectors, too, have been in many cases +selected by the officers commanding regiments, without the +slightest reference to their acquirements. Very many of +them can hardly speak a word of Hindoostanee, and are of +course perfectly useless. All this greatly augments the +labour and difficulty of the officer. To say that these last +are at work from morning to night is nothing. It is one +incessant round of toil, from five in the morning till seven at +night, and then reports and accounts. If the officers could +but do their work their own way, each for his own division, +they would do it—roughly perhaps, but effectually; but it is +this constant demand for reports, and the changes which are +constantly being made in the arrangements, which make the +work far too much to be got through. The great mistake +which was committed was the sending any Hindoo inspectors +and soldiers unless all, or at any rate the greater part, of the +drivers had been also Hindoo. Hindoo drivers would have +obeyed Hindoo inspectors and soldiers; the Arabs and Egyptians, +who form the great proportion of the drivers, laugh in +their faces. A Hindoo, too, is not an inventive man—give +him his orders, be quite sure that he understands them, and +he will carry them out as long as all goes straight; but he is +a very helpless man if things go wrong. These mule-drivers +are the most utterly reckless of men. If a mule breaks down, +they leave him and his load upon the road. If one breaks +down in a narrow spot they will be a good hour before they +come to the resolution to pull him out of the way and continue +their journey. If a cart-wheel gives out, there it may +<pb n="141"/><anchor id="Pg141"/>lie. If an animal has a sore back, or has the disease, or any +other malady, it will never occur to them to say a word about +it until he falls helpless. Altogether, the drivers of the train +are a very reckless lot, who essentially want looking after. +The pay offered to the inspectors of the different classes is +very good, and there would have been no difficulty in obtaining +volunteers from English regiments throughout India, it +being of course made a <hi rend="italic">sine quâ non</hi> that they should have +had some colloquial knowledge of Hindoostanee. There +should have been at least fifty to each division, and then no +convoy of over twenty mules would ever have gone out +without a European to look after them. If one of the animals +had been ill or lame the inspector would report it; if +a mule dropped he would see that the burden was divided +among the others; if a wheel had broken he would make +some shift or other to patch it up. He should have carried +side-arms, and would have seen that the animals kept together +without straggling, and would have prevented any +looting on the part of the natives. In fact, he would have +saved his pay twenty times over. It is this utter recklessness +on the part of the drivers which has contributed largely to the +great mortality among the animals. They will work the poor +beasts with the most terrific sore backs, until in their agony +they can go no further; then they will turn them loose and +steal another from the lines, so that the veterinary surgeons +only find out that animals are ill when they are utterly beyond +work. Were sore backs, lameness, and disease only +reported at the right time, a few days’ rest and a little care +would set most of the animals up; now, frequently the first +intimation is received from someone who, riding along, has +seen the poor beast lying down by the roadside dying. +</p> + +<pb n="142"/><anchor id="Pg142"/> + +<p> +There has been great discontent excited among these +hard-worked officers of the transport train—some of whom +have been at work in Egypt or India since August last; +others of whom have borne the brunt of the worst time +here—at the introduction of a number of other officers over +their heads. The corps was constituted as a corps some +months since, and the officers have been placed according +to their regimental rank. According to all rule and precedent, +every officer gazetted to the corps after that would +hold rank—that is, local rank—according to the date of his +gazetting into the corps. Instead of this, they have been +placed according to their date of commission as captain, +consequently the whole of the captains who have been at +work here from the landing of the expedition—who have +borne the toil and anxiety from the first—find two or three +officers placed over their heads, and, in fact, if this procedure +continue, will at the end of the campaign be six +or seven lower on the list than they were before. This +is the more inexcusable, as fourteen divisions were to be +formed, and fourteen captains were gazetted, thus making +the corps complete; and each man hoped, and had a +right to expect, to have a division. Indeed, at first even +the authorities recognised this; and these captains, who +wished to come out to Abyssinia, but could obtain no +other appointment, were gazetted as subalterns in the transport +train; and as this was subsequent to the gazette forming +the corps, it was naturally supposed by the other officers +that they came in as junior of that rank. When, however, +the first vacancy occurred in the captains, instead of the +senior lieutenant obtaining promotion as he expected, one +of these captain-subalterns was promoted to the vacancy; +<pb n="143"/><anchor id="Pg143"/>and, as he was an old captain, he actually not only jumped +over the heads of all the subalterns, but over those of every +captain who was here when he landed, and thus become +second in command of the transport train. Since then +other appointments have been made, and the original captains +at present find themselves going gradually down instead +of rising in their corps. This, after such work as they +have gone through, is not a little hard, and is, I believe, +quite without precedent in the service. +</p> + +<p> +The arrangements for the position of the divisions have +been so frequently altered during the past fortnight that I +am quite unable to say where they are now posted. It was +originally arranged by Captain Twentyman—at the time +he was in command—that each division should have one +station, and pass the stores from station to station. This +was afterwards entirely altered, and it was ordered that each +division should work from Koomaylo up to Senafe, and a +captain was sent up to send the animals down for the purpose. +Forty-eight hours afterwards another captain was +despatched to entirely countermand these orders, and to make +perfectly fresh arrangements, and these again have been +altered during the last day or two. I need not say that +these constant and needless changes add very greatly to the +difficulties with which the officers of the train have to struggle. +At present the stores from here to Koomaylo are carried +by camels, and thence taken up by mules, oxen, and +ponies from station to station. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +Strangely enough, the through system, as it was called—that +is, the sending animals right on for days with the same +loads—was persevered in to the very end of the campaign, +<pb n="144"/><anchor id="Pg144"/>although it could be mathematically proved that the relay +system was in every respect greatly superior. Captain Ellis, +of the transport train, sent in a table to the authorities, which +proved conclusively that the same number of mules would +carry one-sixth more goods in a given time by the <q>relay</q> +system than by the <q>through.</q> But the other advantages +were even greater; an officer stationed at any given place +had the men and animals of his division always under his eye. +He would get to know both man and beast; he would soon +find out which men did their work and which failed in it. +The drivers and mules would each have its allotted place, and +an infinity of confusion would be avoided; the arrangements +for drawing forage for the animals, and food for the men, for +cooking, &c. would have all been simple and practicable. +Indeed, in every single respect, the relay system possesses +immense advantages. It could not, of course, have been +adopted beyond Antalo, but the saving of labour and life, the +increase of efficiency, regularity, and discipline, from its introduction +between Zulla and Antalo, would have been +enormous. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +I am unable to say how many animals are at present at +work—probably nine or ten thousand, and this number, devoted +entirely to the conveyance of commissariat stores as +they are at present, would carry really large amounts forward, +were it not that they carry their own forage, and were +they of proper strength; but unfortunately a very large number +of them have lung-disease, brought on by insufficient and +irregular water and food. The number in hospital is terrible. +There are at present about 700 mules and 700 camels in hospital, +and the deaths are over 200 a-week. This is a terrible +<pb n="145"/><anchor id="Pg145"/>mortality; but were all the others in good working order, it +would matter comparatively little; the worst is, that very +many are poorly, and will fill the hospital ranks far quicker +than death or discharge empty them. There are nominally ten +veterinary surgeons to the force under Veterinary Surgeon +Lamb, an officer of great experience; only five of the ten +have arrived, and these are terribly overworked, as they have +no staff, and have to inspect, prescribe, and administer medicines +themselves. No time should be lost in filling up the +ranks of the veterinary surgeons, and in giving them assistance, +for when the numbers are complete they will have at +least 100 such animals each to attend to, and these not trifling +cases, but terrible sore backs, the last stages of lung-disease, +and the local plague. The authorities appear to have thought +the lives of the native drivers, officers, and non-commissioned +officers, of no consequence whatever, for although there will +be 280 Europeans and 18,000 native drivers when the corps +is complete, there is not a single surgeon appointed for them! +And this although the great part of the force will be stationed +at small stations along the road, at which there will be no +troops whatever, and of course no medical officer. The men +are very liable to broken limbs and injuries from the kicks +of the animals, and to illness from hardship and exposure; +and yet to this numerous body of men, nearly equalling in +number the whole of the rest of the expedition, there has not +been a single medical man appointed! +</p> + +<p> +The animals which appear to support the hard work and +irregular food with the least deterioration are the bullocks. +Of these a very small number indeed have been ill, and the +deaths amount to only one or two weekly. They look in really +good condition, and perform their work admirably. Indeed, +<pb n="146"/><anchor id="Pg146"/>the greater part of the mules and ponies look in fair condition, +and they have certainly no lack of food, except at the +up-stations. Very great credit is due to the commissariat +department, who have done very well, and against whom one +never hears a complaint. Since the first landing they have +had an abundance of stores for the men; and no instance has, +as far as I have heard, occurred of men being unable to obtain +their proper rations. The Commander-in-chief is making +every effort to strengthen the transport train, and has gazetted +a number of unattached subalterns for it. He has also, I +believe, applied to the native regiments here for volunteers for +that corps; among the subalterns, I hear, there have been +few, if any, answers in the affirmative. I understand that +the European regiments have also been applied to for volunteers +among the noncommissioned officers and men, to act as +inspectors in the train. Among these, as among the officers, +I hear the appeal has not been responded to. The work of +the train is tremendously hard; and men fancy, and perhaps +with reason, that they have less chance of going forward to +the front in the train than they would have in their own regiments. +There would have been no difficulty originally in obtaining +any number of men from the regiments not coming to +Abyssinia, as men would have volunteered for the very reason +that makes the men here refuse to do so—namely, that they +wished to see the war; in addition to which, as I have said, +the pay in the train is really very good. +</p> + +<p> +But, after all, what is most required by the transport train +is a commanding officer of far higher rank than a major. The +transport train is, as I have shown, a collection of fourteen +divisions, each as numerous as three cavalry regiments, the +whole equalling in men alone the rest of the expedition. To +<pb n="147"/><anchor id="Pg147"/>command this immense corps a brigadier-general of energy +and standing should have been selected—a man who would +see the work done, and at the same time insist on being allowed +to carry out his plans in his own way, without interference +from others. As it is, everyone has advice to offer +to the transport train, and, while throwing the blame of +everything that goes wrong upon their shoulders, men do +little to assist them; think nothing of sending for transport +animals, and then keep them waiting for hours; start at +times which render it impossible that the animals can be +watered; send in their requisitions at all sorts of odd times; +and, in fact, show no regard whatever for anything but their +personal convenience. Major Warden does his best, and +works indefatigably; but it requires an officer of much higher +rank and of great firmness and decision. The present would +be a great chance for an officer to make himself a name. To +have successfully managed so enormous a corps as the transport +train under such extreme difficulties as have already, +and will in future visit it, would be a feather in the cap of +the most distinguished officer. +</p> + +<p> +It is a moot question, whether it would not have been far +better to have done here as in India—namely, to put the +transport train under the commissariat; and the overwhelming +majority of opinion is, that this would have been +a very preferable course. In the first place, the commissariat +have no responsibility whatever. They have simply +to hand over at Zulla so many thousand bags of rice, sugar, +biscuit, &c., and to say to them, <q>Deliver them in certain +proportions at such and such stations along the road.</q> This +done, their responsibility ceases. If there is a deficiency anywhere, +they have only to say, <q>We handed over the stores +<pb n="148"/><anchor id="Pg148"/>at Zulla in ample time, and if they have not arrived it is no +fault of ours.</q> I cannot but think that it would be far better +for the commissariat to have a transport train of their own. +In India they have proved over and over again that they are +capable of carrying out their transport arrangements admirably. +During the mutiny there was hardly a case occurred +where the commissariat did not manage to have the food up +ready for the men at the end of the day’s march. For the +conveyance of military stores and baggage, the transport +train should be perfectly distinct from that of the commissariat. +So many mules and drivers should be told off to each +regiment, and that regiment should be responsible for them. +One of the officers and a sergeant or two would be told off to +look after them, and see that they were properly fed, watered, +and looked after. The transport-train officer with the division +would be in charge of spare mules, and exchange them when +required for regimental mules which might have fallen sick +by the way; in addition to which, a certain proportion of +spare mules for casualties might be handed to each regiment. +In case of a halt of a few days only, the mules would remain +in charge of the troops; but if the halt were likely to be prolonged, +the mules would be handed over to the transport +officer, and by him used to assist the commissariat, or upon +any duty for which they might be required.<note place="foot">This regimental arrangement was carried out during the latter part +of the march to Magdala, and was found to answer extremely well.</note> +</p> + +<p> +The elephants have been handed over to the commissariat +train. They walk backwards and forwards between this place +and Koomaylo, and take large quantities of stores forward. +The natives are never tired of watching the huge beasts at +their work, and wondering at their obedience to us. This +<pb n="149"/><anchor id="Pg149"/>astonishes them, indeed, more than anything they have seen +of us, with the exception of our condensing water from the +sea. One of them was speaking the other day to an officer, +who is thoroughly acquainted with Arabic. <q>You say you +are Christians,</q> the Shoho said; <q>this cannot be, for you +wear no blue cords round your necks. You are sons of +Sheitan. You are more powerful than the afrits of old. +They could move mountains, and fly across the air, but they +could never drink from the sea, they could never change +salt-water into fresh. You must be sons of Sheitan.</q> +</p> + +<p> +No troops have gone forward this week, with the exception +of two companies of the 25th Native Infantry, who have +gone out to Koomaylo to furnish guards and fatigue-parties +there. No troops have landed, with the exception of considerable +numbers of the Scinde Horse. I was anxious to see +this regiment, which I have seen highly praised in books, but +which Indian officers with whom I have conversed on the +subject have generally spoken of in terms the reverse of +complimentary. I confess that their appearance is not imposing. +The men are dressed in long green frock-coats, +green trousers, black belts, and sabretasches, red sash round +waist, and red turban. A picturesque uniform in itself; but +the long coat has a clumsy effect on horseback. Their horses +are, without exception, the very ugliest set of animals I ever +set eyes on. A greater contrast between these men and horses +and the smart 3d Cavalry at Senafe could hardly be conceived; +and yet the men individually are a fine set of fellows, indeed +are almost too heavy for cavalry. The great point which has +always been urged in favour of the Scinde Horse is, that they +carry their own baggage, and are independent of commissariat +or transport train. This is, of course, a most valuable quality; +<pb n="150"/><anchor id="Pg150"/>and in India, where forage and provisions are purchased +readily enough, it is probable that the regiment may be able +to move about to a great extent on its own resources. Here +it is altogether different, and the regiment have indented +upon the transport train for just as many baggage-animals +as other cavalry corps would require. The only use of the +herds of ponies which they have brought with them is, to +carry very large kits for the men’s use—a matter of no advantage +whatever to the public service, and, on the contrary, +involving great expense, as these ponies were brought from +India at the public expense, and have now to be fed and +watered. I shall probably have to return to this subject +during the campaign, as this system is one which has been +strongly advocated and as strongly attacked among Indian +officers. The railway continues to creep forward, and the +first engine made a trial trip to-day upon it. Although there +is little more to do than to lay the sleepers into the sand and +to affix the rails, there is at present only a mile complete. +One dry watercourse has been crossed, and here iron girders +have been laid; but these nullahs should be no obstacle whatever +to the progress of the work, as parties ought to be sent +forward to get the little bridges, or any small cuttings there +may be, finished in readiness, so that no pause may be occasioned +in the laying the line. The country, with the exception +of these little dry watercourses, which are from three +to five feet deep, is perfectly flat; and the railway might, at +any rate, be temporarily laid down with great ease and rapidity, +especially with such a number of men as are employed +upon it. As the work is being carried on at present without +either method or plan or judgment, it is impossible even to +predict when it will be finished to Koomaylo. +</p> + +<pb n="151"/><anchor id="Pg151"/> + +<p> +It is a great pity that the matter was not put into the +hands of a regular railway contractor, who would have +brought his plant, gangers, and plate-layers from England, +<hi rend="italic">viâ</hi> Egypt, in three weeks from the date of signing the contract, +and who would, with native labour, have had the line +open to Koomaylo, if not to Sooro, ere this. I am not +blaming the engineer officers who are in charge of the railway. +They exert themselves to the utmost, and have no +assistance in the way of practical gangers and platelayers, +and have neither tools nor conveniences of any kind. Indeed, +the actual laying down of a line can hardly be considered +engineers’ work. An engineer makes the surveys +and plans, and sees that the bridges, &c., are built of proper +materials; but he is not a professed railway-maker, and is +ill-calculated to direct a number of natives, who neither understand +his language nor have a conception of what he is +aiming at. It needed a body of thorough navvies, a couple +of hundred strong, such as we had in the Crimea, to show +the natives what to do, and to do the platelaying and skilled +portion of the work themselves. When I say the railway +has been, and will be, of no use to the advancing expedition, +I of course except the line of rails down upon the pier and up +to the stores, as this has been of the very greatest utility.<note place="foot">My anticipations with regard to the railway were more than realised; +for the last two miles of the railway to Koomaylo were not made at the +termination of the expedition, and the portion which was completed was, +without exception, the roughest, most shaky, and most dangerous piece of +railway ever laid down. It is to be hoped that upon any future occasion a +contractor will be employed instead of an engineer officer, who cannot have +either the requisite knowledge or experience.</note> +</p> + +<p> +The photographing party are up the pass, and have executed +some excellent views of the gorge. The engineers +have succeeded in sinking pumps at Guinea-fowl Plain, +<pb n="152"/><anchor id="Pg152"/>or, as it is now called, Undel Wells, and have got a plentiful +supply of good water. This is most important and +gratifying news. The journey from Sooro to Rayray +Guddy, thirty miles, without water, was the trying part +of the journey forward, and if the animals could speak not +a few of them would lay their illnesses to that long and +distressing journey. It is true that there was generally a +little water to be had at the old well, but this was so deep +and so difficult to get at, that, although a party of three or +four animals could be watered there, it was quite impossible +that a largo convoy could be watered. Now a large dépôt of +provisions and forage will be established there, and the journey +will henceforth be divided into five day’s marches, of +nearly equal length. Fresh animals arrive here every day, +and the amount of stores of every description which is poured +on shore is really surprising. Nothing could work better or +more evenly than do all the departments here. There is no +confusion of any sort, and the issue of rations and stores, and +the general arrangements, work as smoothly as at Aldershot. +The military bands play morning and evening, and all is as +quiet and according to rule as if we had been six months and +intended to stay six months more upon this plain, twenty-four +hours’ sojourn upon which was declared by our prophets of +evil to be fatal to a European. The only thing in which we +differ from a stationary camp is that there are no parades. +Everyone is at work upon fatigue-duty. Every available +man is ordered off to some work or other, and as we have +with pioneers, coolies, hired natives, and soldiers, four or five +thousand men here, we really ought to make considerable +progress with our railway, which is now the only work of +importance, with the exception of the wooden commissariat +<pb n="153"/><anchor id="Pg153"/>jetty, and the never-ending task of receiving and landing +stores. Up to three days ago there was a piece of work in +progress which was a great joke in camp. I mentioned in a +former letter that the commissariat stores having been flooded, +the engineers built a dam which was intended to keep out +the sea, but which on the first heavy rain kept in the water +and caused a fresh-water flood instead of a salt one. Colonel +Wilkins then resolved upon a work on a large scale; on so +large a scale, indeed, that there were reports through the +camp that <q>he had determined on raising the whole African +coast three feet,</q> while others more moderate denied the exactness +of this, and said that he was merely <q>seized with a +desire to show the Bombay people how reclamations from the +sea ought to be carried out.</q> The last report was nearer to +the truth than the first, for his intention was to raise the +shore from one jetty to another, a distance of about 400 yards, +the shore to be raised being thirty or forty yards in width, +and needing three feet of additional height at the very least. +The material to be used was sand. Accordingly, about a +thousand men worked for a week with baskets at what their +officers called mudlarking, and had not the sea fortunately +interposed, they might have worked for another six months +longer, with the certain result that the very first time a high +tide, accompanied by wind, set in the work would altogether +disappear; sand having—as most children who have built +castles upon the Ramsgate sands are perfectly aware—an +awkward knack of melting away when beaten upon by the +sea. Fortunately, before more was done than making a sort +of bank next to the sea, and when the labour of filling the +whole shore behind this to the same level began to be apparent +even to the most obstinate, the sea rose, came over the dam, +<pb n="154"/><anchor id="Pg154"/>covered the low ground behind three feet deep, entered the +commissariat stores, and, as it could not escape, did considerably +more damage than it would have done had the shore remained +as it was before the labour of a thousand men for a +week was expended upon it. +</p> + +<p> +The rainy season, like most other things connected with +Abyssinia, has turned out a myth. It was to have come in +November, then it was postponed to December, then the 1st +of January was named as the latest time, and yet, with the +exception of one heavy shower, we have had no rain whatever. +The dust is blowing again in perfect clouds. We +taste it in all we eat and in all we drink. Grit is perpetually +between our teeth. As for our hair, what with sea-bathing +and what with dust it is approaching fast to the appearance +of a hedgehog’s back. Were it not for the evening +bathe I do not know how we should get on. A great improvement +has been effected in this respect during the last +ten days. The end of the pier is now kept for officers only, +the rest being devoted to the men. This is a great boon, and +makes the end of the pier quite a pleasant place of assembly +of an evening. Everyone is there, and everyone knows everyone +else, so that it forms the grand rendezvous of the day. +Our meeting-room is the sea, our toilet strict undress. I +only wish that the water we use internally were as pleasant +as the salt-water is for bathing, but the fact is, it is almost +undrinkable. Why it is so no one seems to know; but there +is no question as to the fact. It is extremely salt, and has a +strong earthy taste in addition, and occasionally a disagreeable +smell. Why it should be salt I know not, but can only +suppose that the condensers are worked too hard, and that +salt-water goes over with the steam. The earthy flavour and +<pb n="155"/><anchor id="Pg155"/>unpleasant smell which it sometimes has I attribute to the +fact that the water which comes on shore from the ships must +be bad. I have smelt exactly the same odour in water on +board ship. The bad taste is so strong that it cannot be disguised +or overpowered by the strongest admixture of spirits. +By far the best water here is made by the condenser at the +head of the pier, and this is served out to the European regiments, +who are camped rather nearer to it than the native +regiments are. Filters remove to a certain extent the earthy +taste, but they do not alter the saline. A more serious matter +even than the badness of the water is the fact that the supply +has several times within the last ten days been insufficient, +and hundreds of animals have had to go to their work in the +morning, or to their beds at night, without a drop of water. +It is this which lays the foundation of the lung-diseases, fills +our hospitals with sick animals, to say nothing of the suffering +caused to them. When the Scinde Horse, with their numerous +baggage-animals, have moved forward, it is to be hoped +that the naval authorities will be able to supply a sufficiency +of drinkable water for the rest of the camp. The party of +engineers have just begun a work which, when completed, +will enable a much larger amount of stores to be landed daily +than can at present be accomplished. They are driving piles +so as to lengthen the pier some twenty or thirty yards, and +to form a pier-head, on all sides of which lighters and boats +can lie alongside to unload instead of only at one side, as at +present. The commissariat wharf is also making considerable +progress, and when this and the new pier-head are completed, +the amount of stores which can be daily landed will be +very large. As it is, it is wonderful what immense quantities +of stores are landed and sent up the pier in the trucks +<pb n="156"/><anchor id="Pg156"/>by the commissariat, quartermaster, transport train, and +engineer departments. Many hands make light work, and +there is abundance of labour here, and a boat comes alongside, +and its contents are emptied and placed upon a railway-truck +in a very few minutes. Were a double line laid down +the pier—which was specially built for it—and two or three +connections or crossings laid down, so that full trucks could +go out, and empty ones come in without waiting for each +other, the capacity of the pier would be vastly greater than +it is. Why this is not done no one seems to know. With +the abundance of labour at hand it might be made in a day +without interfering with the working of the present line. A +great improvement has taken place in the conveyance of the +post between this and Senafe. Ponies are in readiness at +the various stations, and the mails are taken up in two days. +Things are in fact getting into order in all the branches of +the service, and with the exception of the water-supply and the +ridiculously-slow progress of the railway, there is little to be +wished for. The Punjaub Pioneers, whose arrival I mentioned +in my last letter, are an uncommonly fine body of men. +Their loose cotton dress and dark claret-brown turbans, and +their picks and shovels slung across their shoulders, in addition +to their arms and accoutrements, give them the appearance +of a corps ready for any work; and this they have quite +borne out. They have brought a number of ponies with them, +and are fit for any service. The corps which have thus far +arrived from Bengal and Madras have certainly done very +great credit to these Presidencies, and make it a matter of +regret that Bombay should have endeavoured to keep as far +as possible the monopoly of an immense expedition like the +present in her own hands. The Lahore division of the +mule-<pb n="157"/><anchor id="Pg157"/>train arrived here in the most perfect order. The saddles, +accoutrements, &c., arrived with the mules, together with the +proper complement of drivers, complete with warm clothing, +&c. This division were therefore ready to take their load +and to march up the very day after their landing, without +the slightest confusion or delay. Of course the animals from +Egypt and the Mediterranean could not arrive in this state +of order, but there was no reason whatever why the Bombay +division should not have arrived in a state of complete efficiency, +instead of the animals coming by one ship, the drivers +in another, the officers and inspectors in a third, and the accoutrements +and clothing scattered over a whole fleet. Madras, +too, has done well, although her contingent is a very small +one. The Madras Sappers and Miners have greatly distinguished +themselves, and the Madras dhoolie corps, which was +raised and organised by Captain Smith, of the commissariat, +has turned out of the very greatest utility. They have worked +admirably, and have been quite willing to do any work to +which they were set, however foreign it might be to the purpose +for which they were engaged. Numbers of them have +been transferred to the transport train; and, indeed, so useful +has the corps proved, that orders have been sent to Madras +for another of equal strength. +</p> + +<p> +We had quite a pretty sight here the other night. The +Pacha on board the Turkish frigate, which with two small +consorts is lying in the harbour, invited Sir Robert Napier +and the other generals, with their respective staffs, and the +commanding officers of regiments and departments, to dinner. +The frigate was illuminated with hundreds of lanterns hung +along her shrouds and yards. The dinner was spread on the +quarter-deck, which had awnings both roof and sides, so that +<pb n="158"/><anchor id="Pg158"/>it formed a perfect tent. The dinner was very good, and the +fittings and ornaments of the table admirable. The sight, to +men who had been for the last month eating off pewter and +drinking out of tin cups, of a pile of porcelain plates, which +were evidently some of Minton’s or Copeland’s best work, +would be almost tantalising, and the dinner was enjoyed +proportionately to its being so exceptional a circumstance. +There was no making of speeches or drinking of healths, but +the men-of-war and other boats as they left the frigate with +their guests gave a hearty cheer to the Pacha for his hospitality. +There is still a great want of boats in the harbour, +and it is most difficult to get out to a ship to see a friend or +to buy stores. Many of the ships are not unloading, and the +men have nothing to do. It would be an excellent plan to +authorise some of these vessels to send boats to shore to ply +for hire, at a regular tariff. The men would like it, as they +would gain good pay, and it would be a great boon to us on +shore. +</p> + +<p> +There is no news from the front, with the exception of +that brought in just as the last mail was leaving, namely, +that Theodore was moving towards Magdala, and that the +Waagshum with his army was watching him. As Waagshum +had neither the force nor the courage to hold the passes +between Debra Tabor and Magdala—which, according to all +accounts, a hundred men might easily hold against a thousand +similarly armed—I do not think that the news that he was +watching Theodore was of any more importance than if it +had been <q>a troop of baboons are watching Theodore.</q> I +have not the least faith in these barbarian allies of ours. +They will do nothing, and will demand great presents for +it. Except that it amuses our <q>political agent,</q> I do not +<pb n="159"/><anchor id="Pg159"/>see that the slightest possible utility can come from these +native chiefs. The only king of any real importance is +the King of Tigre, upon whose territory we are already encamped +at Senafe. I hear that the purport of the message +brought in by the ambassador or envoy who arrived before +Christmas was to request that an envoy might be sent to him +to enter into negotiations, and to arrange for a meeting between +himself and the Commander-in-chief. In consequence, +Major Grant, of Nile celebrity, goes forward to-morrow, +with Mr. Munzinger, our consul at Massowah, who acts as +political adviser and interpreter. They will, I understand, +go on from Senafe with a small guard of eight or ten cavalry. +They will call upon the King of Tigre as official envoys, and +will assure him of our friendship, and inform him that Sir +Robert Napier is anxious to see him, and will meet him at +Attegrat in a short time. I have now finished the news of +the week, with the exception only of an adventure which +befell Captain Pottinger, of the quartermaster’s department. +He was ordered to reconnoitre the passes leading from Senafe +down to the head of Annesley Bay. He started with +eight men, and had proceeded about forty miles when he was +met by a party of armed Shohos, 100 strong. They ordered +him to return to Senafe under pain of an instant attack. Of +course Captain Pottinger, with his eight men, would have +had no difficulty in defeating the 100 Shohos, but had blood +been shed serious complications might have ensued, and he +very wisely determined that it would be better to retire, as +his mission was not one of extreme importance. This little +affair is of itself of no consequence, but is worth notice as +being the first time since our arrival here that the natives +have in any way interfered with an armed force, however +<pb n="160"/><anchor id="Pg160"/>small. In my next letter I hope to be able to speak of at +least a probability of a forward movement. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule:30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Zulla, January 22d"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Zulla, January 22d"/> + +<dateline>Zulla, January 22d.</dateline> + +<p> +Only three days have elapsed since I last wrote to you, +but those three days have completely changed the prospects +of things here. Then a move forward appeared to be an +event which, we hoped, might happen somewhere in the dim +future, but which, with the reports that provisions were +scarcely accumulating at Senafe, but were being consumed +as fast as they were taken up, seemed a very distant matter +indeed. Now all this is changed, and <q>forward</q> is the cry. +The 25th Native Infantry are already on the move, the 4th, +<q>King’s Own,</q> are to go in a day or two, and the 3d Native +Infantry are to follow as soon as possible. Sir Robert +Napier goes up to-morrow or next day. Whether he will +remain up there, and go forward at once, or whether he will +return here again for a short time, is a moot point. I incline +to the former opinion. From what I hear, and from what I +see in the English papers, pressure is being strongly applied +to Sir Robert Napier to move forward. Now, with the +greatest deference for the home authorities and for the leader-writers +upon the London press, I submit that they are forming +opinions upon matters on which no one who has not +visited this place is competent to judge. No one, I repeat, +can form any opinion of the difficulties with which the Commander-in-chief +has to contend here. The first want is the +want of water, the second the want of forage, the third the +want of transport. Twenty-eight thousand animals were to +have been here by the end of December; not more than half +<pb n="161"/><anchor id="Pg161"/>that number have arrived, and of the 12,000 which have been +landed 2000 are dead, and another 2000 unfit for work. The +remainder are doing quite as much as could be expected of +them, and are working well and smoothly; but 8000 are not +sufficient to convey the provisions and stores of an army up +seventy miles, and to carry their own forage as well. That +is, they might convey quite sufficient for their supply from +day to day, but they cannot accumulate sufficient provisions +for the onward journey. The difficulties are simply overwhelming, +and I do not know of a position of greater responsibility +than that of Sir Robert Napier at the present moment. +If he keeps the troops down here upon the plain, the increasing +heat may at any moment produce an epidemic; and, in +addition to this, the English public will ferment with indignation. +On the other hand, if he pushes on with a few +thousand men, he does so at enormous risk. He may take +any number of laden animals with them; but if we get, as in +all probability we shall get, into a country where for days no +forage is obtainable, what is to become of the animals? It +is not the enemy we fear—the enemy is contemptible; it is +the distance, and the questions of provisions and transport. +If a column goes on, it cuts itself loose from its base. With +the exception of the laden animals, which start with it, it can +receive no supplies whatever from the rear; it must be self-supporting. +When Sherman left Atalanta he travelled through +one of the most fertile countries in the world. We, on the +contrary, go through one series of ravines and passes, and +although there are many intervening places where we may +count upon buying cattle, it is by no means certain that we +can procure forage sufficient to last the animals across the +next sterile pass. Altogether, it is a most difficult business, +<pb n="162"/><anchor id="Pg162"/>and one where the wisest would hesitate upon giving any +opinion as to the best course to be pursued. I am sure General +Napier will push forward if he sees any chance of a +favourable issue; and if he does not, he will remain where he +is in spite of any impatient criticism on the part of those who +cannot guess at one tithe of his difficulties. Since writing +the above I have received reliable information that the wing +of the 33d will move forward to Antalo (a hundred miles in +advance) in a few days. This is palpable evidence that at +any rate we are going to feel our way forward. Personally +I need not say how pleased I am, for living with the thermometer +from 104° to 112°, in a tent, and surrounded and +covered with a fine dust, existence can scarcely be called a +pleasure here. +</p> + +<p> +Sir Robert Napier is making great efforts to reduce the +weight to be carried forward, and in this he is, without doubt, +highly to be commended. The great curse of this army is its +enormous number of followers. European regiments have +quite a little host of sweepers, Lascars, water-bearers, &c. &c. +Even the native regiments have a number of followers. Had +English troops direct from England been employed, the +weight to be carried would have been very much less than +it is at present, and the men, being accustomed to shift and +work for themselves, would have been more handy. It is +said that the soldier’s kit, now very heavy, is to be reduced; +but at present the efforts are being directed almost exclusively +against officers. An officer, whatever his rank, is to +be allowed one mule only, and there is some rumour that +even that allowance is to be reduced. I do not hesitate to +say that that amount is insufficient. If an officer had his +mule merely to carry his baggage it would be ample, but this +<pb n="163"/><anchor id="Pg163"/>is very far from being the case. On it he has to carry his +groom’s luggage and warm clothes, and those of his body-servant. +He has to carry his cooking-utensils, &c., and the +rugs, &c., for his horse; consequently he will be lucky if +forty or fifty pounds remains for his own kit. This is not a +campaign for a week or a month; it may, in all human probability +will, last for a year, perhaps longer, and he has to +carry clothes, bedding, &c., for a hot and a cold climate. It +is simply impossible to do this in the limits of fifty pounds. +Regimental officers are ordered to send back their servants to +Bombay, only one to be kept for every three officers. Of +course such officers will be able to get most of the work they +require performed for them by their own men; but, at the +same time, it is a hardship both to officers and servants. In +all cases an officer has made an advance of from two to three +months’ pay to his servants; in all cases he has provided them +with warm clothing; and it is very hard that he should lose +all this, and be obliged to turn servants, whom he may have +had for years, adrift at a moment’s notice. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> + </div><div> +<index index="toc" level1="Senafe, January 31st"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Senafe, January 31st"/> + +<dateline>Senafe, January 31st.</dateline> + +<p> +After the heat and dust of Zulla this place is delightful. +The heat of the day is tempered by a cool wind, and the +really cold nights brace us up thoroughly. Above all, we +have no dust. We are clean. One has to stop for a month +upon the Plain of Zulla thoroughly to appreciate the pleasure +of feeling clean. Here, too, there is water—not only to +drink, but to wash in. After being dust-grimed and unable +to wash, the sensation of being free from dust and enabled +to wash at pleasure is delightful. Having with great +diffi<pb n="164"/><anchor id="Pg164"/>culty succeeded in purchasing baggage-animals, I started +early from Zulla, and arrived at Koomaylo in plenty of time +to be able to examine the wonderful changes which have +taken place there in the last three weeks. There were then +some hundreds of animals there; now there are thousands. +The lines of the mules and ponies extend in every direction; +besides which are bullocks, camels, and elephants. Koomaylo +is indeed the head-quarters of the transport-train animals. +The camel divisions are here. They go down to the +landing-place one day, are fed there, and come back loaded +next day, getting their water only here. The elephants +work in the same way, but they have to be watered at each +end of their journey. The bullock division is here, and +works upwards to Rayray Guddy, three days’ march, taking +up stores and bringing down Senafe grass when there is +any to spare. Four mule and pony divisions are here; +these, like the bullocks, work to Rayray Guddy and back. +The sick animals of these six divisions are also here, and +number nearly twelve hundred, including camels. The watering +of all these animals morning and evening is a most +interesting sight. There are long troughs, into which water +is pumped continuously from the little American pumps. +The different animals have each their allotted troughs. As +they arrive they are formed in lines, and as one line has +drunk the next advances. There is no bustle or confusion, +for there is an ample supply of water for all. The water is +very clear and good, but is quite warm, and most of the +animals object to it the first time of tasting. Although the +mules are in better condition than they were some time since, +very many of them are still very weak, especially those that +have been stationed at Rayray Guddy, where they get +no<pb n="165"/><anchor id="Pg165"/>thing to eat but the coarse Senafe hay, and have had very +frequently to go without even this. The greatest difficulty +of the transport train at present is most unquestionably in +its drivers. The greater part were, as I have before said, +collected haphazard from the scum of Smyrna, Beyrout, +Alexandria, Cairo, and Suez. They are entirely without +any idea of discipline, are perfectly reckless as to the Government +stores, and are brutally cruel to their animals. +By cruel, I do not mean actively cruel, but passively cruel. +They do not thrash their mules much, they are too indifferent +to the pace at which they travel to put themselves +to the trouble of hurrying them. But they are horribly +cruel in a passive way. They will continue to work their +animals with the most terrible sore backs. They will never +take the trouble to loosen the chain which forms part of the +Bombay headgear, and which, unless it is carefully watched, +will cut into the flesh under the chin, and in hundreds of +cases has done so. They will jerk at the rein of their draught-mules +until the clumsy bit raises terrible swellings in the +mouth; they will say no word about the ailments of their +beasts until they can absolutely go no single step further, and +then, instead of taking them to the hospital lines, they turn +them adrift, and report upon their arrival at night that the +mules have died upon the way. There is, however, far less +of this going on now than formerly, for a mounted inspector +accompanies each train, and many of the large convoys have +officers in charge of them. But not only for their cruelty +and carelessness are these Egyptian, Levant, and Turk +drivers objectionable; they are constantly mutinous. I saw +the other day at Zulla a party of fifty who had arrived a +few days before deliberately refuse to work. They did not +<pb n="166"/><anchor id="Pg166"/>like the place, and they would go back. Everything was +tried with them; they were kept upon less than half rations +and water for days, but they sturdily refused to do anything. +The whole party might of course have been flogged, but that +would not have made them work; and the first day that +they went out with mules they would have thrown their burdens +off and deserted with their animals. I was present +when Colonel Holland, director-general of transport, endeavoured +to persuade them to work. They steadily refused, +and even when he promised that they should be sent back +to Suez by the first ship, they refused to do any work whatever +until the time for embarkation. As they stood in a +circle round him, some gesticulating, but most standing in +surly obstinacy, I thought I had never seen such a collection +of thorough ruffians in my life—the picked scoundrels of the +most lawless population on earth. I stopped one day at +Koomaylo, and then came rapidly up the pass. The road +is now really a very fair road for the whole distance, with +the exception of four miles between Koomaylo and lower +Sooro. This piece of road has not, by some strange oversight, +been yet touched; but I hear that the 25th Native +Infantry, one wing of which regiment is at Koomaylo, are +to be set to work at it at once. It is along the flat of +the valley, and only requires smoothing, and removing boulders, +so that a few days will see this, the last piece of the +road, completed. For the rest of the distance the road +is everywhere as good as a bye-road in an out-of-the-way +district at home. In many places it is very much better. +Up the passes at Sooro and Rayray Guddy it is really an +excellent road. The vast boulders, which I described upon +the occasion of my first passing through it, are either +shat<pb n="167"/><anchor id="Pg167"/>tered to pieces by blasting, or are surmounted by the road +being raised by a gradual incline. Too much praise cannot +be given to the Bombay Sappers and Miners, who have +carried out these works. The same party, after finishing +these passes, have now just completed a broad zigzag road +from the bottom of the pass up to the Senafe plain. This +was before the most trying part of the whole journey, now +it is a road up which one might drive in a carriage and pair, +and which reminds one of the last zigzags upon the summits +of the Mount Cenis and St. Gothard passes. The whole of +the works I have described are at once samples of skilful +engineering and of unremitting exertion. No one who passed +through six weeks ago would have believed that so much +could possibly be effected in so short a time. Next only to +the Bombay Sappers credit must be given to the Beloochee +regiment, one wing of which under Major Beville at Sooro, +and the other under Captain Hogg at Rayray Guddy, have +made the road along those places where blasting was not +required. +</p> + +<p> +The Beloochees are a remarkably fine regiment, and work +with a willingness and good-will which are beyond praise. +Great regret is expressed on all sides that they have not been +selected to accompany the 33d regiment upon its advance, +especially as they are armed with Enfield rifles. +</p> + +<p> +The Beloochees are deservedly one of the most popular +regiments in the Indian service, and there is an <hi rend="italic">esprit de +corps</hi>—a feeling of personal attachment between men and +officers, and a pride on the part of the latter to belong to so +good a regiment—which the present extraordinary and unsatisfactory +state of the Indian service renders altogether out +of the question in the regular native regiments. There an +<pb n="168"/><anchor id="Pg168"/>officer forms no part of the regiment. He belongs to it for +the time being, but if he goes home for leave, he will upon +his return be posted in all probability to some other regiment. +In this way all <hi rend="italic">esprit de corps</hi>, all traces of mutual good feeling +between men and officers, is entirely done away with. +How such a system could ever have been devised, and how, +once devised, it has ever been allowed to continue, is one of +those extraordinary things which no civilian, and no military +man under the rank of colonel, can understand. +</p> + +<p> +At the station of Sooro and Rayray Guddy little change +has been effected since I last described them, and about the +same number of men are stationed there; but at Undel Wells, +or Guinea-fowl Plain, as it was formerly called, the place was +changed beyond all recognition. When last I was there it +was a quiet valley, with a few Shohos watering their cattle +at a scanty and dirty well. My own party was the only +evidence of the British expedition. Now this was all changed. +No city in the days of the gold-mining rush in Australia ever +sprung into existence more suddenly. Here are long lines +of transport-animals, here are commissariat-tents and stores, +here a camp of the pioneers. The whole of the trees and +brushwood have been cleared away. Here is the watering-place, +with its troughs for animals and its tubs for men—the +one supplied by one of Bastier’s chain-pumps, a gigantic +specimen of which used to pour out a cataract of water for +the delectation of the visitors to the Paris Exhibition—the +other by one of the little American pumps. Everything +works as quietly and easily as if the age of the station was +to be counted by months instead of by days. +</p> + +<p> +I found that the telegraph is making rapid progress. The +wire now works as far as Sooro, and is also erected +down<pb n="169"/><anchor id="Pg169"/>wards from Senafe to Rayray Guddy. It is a very fine +copper wire, and in the midst of the lofty perpendicular rocks +of the Sooro Pass it looks, as it goes in long stretches from +angle to angle, with the sun shining bright upon it, like the +glistening thread of some great spider. +</p> + +<p> +It would have been long since laid to Senafe, but the +greatest difficulty has occurred in obtaining poles, all those +sent from Bombay having been thrown overboard to lighten +the vessel in which they were shipped upon an occasion of +her running aground. It has been found impossible to procure +the poles for the remaining distance; and I hear that a +wire coated with india-rubber is to be laid a few inches under +the soil. +</p> + +<p> +Senafe itself is but little altered. The 10th Native Infantry +are still in their old camp. The 3d Native Cavalry +have gone out about eight miles from here to a spot called +Goose Plain, and the sappers and miners are encamped in +the old lines of the 3d. The 33d lines are in a plain close +to, but a little beyond, the old camp, and concealed from +view until one has passed it. +</p> + +<p> +On my arrival in camp I found that a deep gloom hung +over everyone, and I heard the sad news that Colonel Dunn, +the commanding officer of the 33d, had the day before accidentally +shot himself when out shooting. The native servant +who alone was with him reports that he himself was at the +moment stooping to pour out some water, that he heard the +report of a gun, and turning round saw his master stagger +back, and then sink into a sitting position with the blood +streaming from his breast. The man instantly ran back to +camp, a distance of five miles, for assistance, and surgeons at +once galloped off with bandages, &c., followed by dhoolie +<pb n="170"/><anchor id="Pg170"/>wallahs, with a dhoolie to carry him back to camp. When +the surgeons arrived, they found Colonel Dunn lying on his +back, dead. His flask was open by his side, his cap pulled +over his face. He had bled to death in a few minutes after +the accident. It is supposed that the gun was at full cock, +and that the slight jar of putting the butt to the ground must +have let the hammer down. There are very few men who +could have been less spared than Colonel Dunn; none more +deeply regretted. As an officer he was one of the most rising +men in the service, and had he lived would probably have +gained its highest honours and position. He was with the +11th Hussars in the Balaclava charge, and when the men +were asked to select the man who in the whole regiment was +most worthy of the Victoria Cross, they unanimously named +Lieutenant Dunn. Never was the Victoria Cross placed on +the breast of a more gallant soldier. When the 100th regiment +was raised in Canada, he enrolled a very large number +of men, and was gazetted its major. After attaining the rank +of lieutenant-colonel he exchanged into the 33d, of which, +at the time of this sad accident, he was full colonel, and was +next on the list for his brigadier-generalship. He was only +thirty-five years of age, the youngest colonel in the British +service, and would, in all human probability, have been a +brigadier-general before he was thirty-six. Known as a +dashing officer, distinguished for his personal bravery, a +colonel at an age when other men are captains, there was no +rank or position in the army which he might not have confidently +been predicted to attain, and his loss is a loss to the +whole British army. But not less than as a soldier, do all who +knew poor Dunn regret him as a man. He was the most +popular of officers. Unassuming, frank, kind-hearted in the +<pb n="171"/><anchor id="Pg171"/>extreme, a delightful companion, and a warm friend—none +met him who were not irresistibly attracted by him. He +was a man essentially to be loved. In his regiment his loss +is irreparable, and as they stood beside his lonely grave at +the foot of the rock of Senafe, it is no disgrace to their manhood +to say that there were few dry eyes amongst either +officers or men. He was buried, in accordance with a wish +he had once expressed, in his uniform, and Wolfe’s lines on +the burial of Sir John Moore will apply almost word for +word to <q>the grave where <hi rend="italic">our</hi> hero we buried.</q> +</p> + +<p> +Sir Robert Napier arrived here with his personal staff the +day before yesterday, having been five days <hi rend="italic">en route</hi>, spending +one day carefully examining each station, inquiring, as +is his custom, into every detail, and seeing how each department +worked. Never was a commander more careful in this +inquiry into every detail than is Sir Robert Napier. Nothing +escapes him. He sees everything, hears what everyone has +to say, and then decides firmly upon what is to be done. +The army have rightly an unbounded confidence in him. +He is essentially the man for an expedition of this sort. His +reputation for dash and gallantry is well known, but at the +same time he has a prudence and sagacity which will fit him +for the extremely difficult position in which he is placed. If +it is possible to make a dash into Central Abyssinia, undoubtedly +he will do it; if, on the other hand, it cannot be +done without extraordinary risk and difficulty—if it is next +to impossible—no amount of outcry at home will drive him +to attempt it. +</p> + +<p> +It is believed here that, moved by the home authorities, a +rapid dash is on the point of being made, and bets are freely +exchanged that the expedition will be over by the 1st of +<pb n="172"/><anchor id="Pg172"/>April. For myself, I confess that even in the face of the +approaching advance of the first division I have no anticipations +whatever that such will be the case. Sir Robert, I +believe, does mean to try. Urged on to instant action from +home, he will despatch two or three regiments, with cavalry +and artillery, and with the lightest possible baggage. But if +the country at all resembles that we have already traversed, +if it is one tithe as difficult and deficient in food and forage as +Abyssinian travellers have told us, I am convinced that the +column will have to come to a halt, and wait for supplies, and +will have to proceed in a regular military way. I hope that +I may be mistaken; I sincerely hope that the advancing +column may meet with no insuperable obstacles; but, remembering +that it is by no means certain that when we get +to Magdala we shall find Theodore and the captives there, I +am far more inclined to name nine months than three as the +probable time which will elapse before we have attained the +objects of our expedition,—that is, always supposing that +Theodore does not deliver up the captives as we advance. It +is quite certain that the advancing column must depend entirely +upon themselves. They will be able to receive no supplies +from the rear, for other regiments will take the place of +those that go on from Senafe, and the transport train cannot +do much more than keep Senafe supplied with provisions at +present, even supplemented as their efforts are by those of +thousands of the little native cattle. Indeed, had it not been +for the quantity of stores brought up by the natives on their +own cattle, there would not have been sufficient stores at +Senafe to have supplied the troops who now move on. As +some 1500 animals will be withdrawn from the strength of +the transport train to march with the advance brigade, it is +<pb n="173"/><anchor id="Pg173"/>evident that the stores sent up for some time will not be much +more than sufficient to supply Senafe, and that no animals +will be available to send on fresh supply to the front. The +brigade that advances, then, must depend entirely upon itself. +It must not hope for any assistance whatever. To say the +least, it is an expedition upon the like of which few bodies of +men ever started. We have 330 miles to go, across a country +known to be exceptionally mountainous and difficult. We +have already learned that, with the exception of cattle, the +country will provide us with no food whatever. The kings +or chiefs through whose territory we march will be but +neutral, and even if actively friendly, which they certainly +are not, could afford us no practical assistance. To crown +all, it may be that towards the end of the march we may have +to fight our way through difficult passes, defended by men +who, if ill-armed, are at least warlike and brave. History +hardly records an instance of such an accumulation of difficulties. +Pizarro’s conquest of Mexico, perhaps, ranks foremost +among enterprises of this sort, but Pizarro fought his +way through the richest country in the world, and could +never have had difficulties as to his supplies. There is no +question about our conquering—the great question is as to +our eating. If we were always certain of finding forage our +difficulties would be light in comparison. Unfortunately our +mules must eat as well as we, and we know that we shall +have long passes where no forage whatever is procurable. If +the mules were certain of their food it would be a mere arithmetical +question—how many mules are required to convey +food for 2500 men for forty days? As it stands now, we +have no data to go upon, and whether our present advance +succeeds or not is almost entirely dependent upon whether we +<pb n="174"/><anchor id="Pg174"/>can obtain forage for our animals. If we can do this, we +shall get to Magdala; but if we find that we have to pass +long distances without forage, it becomes an impossibility, +and we must fall back upon the regular military method of +forming dépôts and moving on stage by stage. In this latter +case there is no predicting the probable limit of the expedition. +</p> + +<p> +General Napier is taking the most stringent but necessary +steps for reducing the baggage to a minimum. No +officer, whatever his rank, is to be allowed more than one +mule. Three officers are to sleep in each bell-tent, and one +mule is allowed for two bell-tents. One mule is allowed +to each three officers for cooking-utensils and mess-stores. +Only one native servant is to be allowed for each three +officers. No officers, except those entitled to horses in England, +are to be mounted; they may, however, if they choose, +take their own horse as a pack-animal instead of the mule +to which they are entitled, in which case a pack-saddle will +be issued to them. Similar reductions are being made +among the regimental baggage and followers. The latter, +whose name was legion, and who were at least as numerous +as the fighting-men, are to be greatly curtailed. The Lascars, +sweepers, water-bearers, &c. are either to be sent back, +or to be turned into grass-cutters for the cavalry and baggage-animals. +The European soldiers are to be limited to +35lb. weight of baggage, and part of this they will have to +carry for themselves. All this is as it should be. In India +it is policy as well as humanity to take every possible care +of the British soldier. He is a very expensive machine, and +although, as was found during the mutiny, he can work +in the sun during an emergency without his health +suffer<pb n="175"/><anchor id="Pg175"/>ing, still at ordinary times it is far better to relieve him as +far as possible from all duties whatever save drill and guard. +Labour and food are so cheap in India that the expense of +this host of camp-followers is comparatively slight. Here +it is altogether different. It was known long before we +started that the ground would be exceptionally difficult, that +the difficulties of transport would be enormous, and that every +mouth extra to be fed was of consequence; and yet in spite +of this the European regiments arrived here with little short +of 500 followers; and the native regiments have also hosts +of hangers-on. As I have said, all this is now very properly +to be done away with. The army will march as nearly as +possible with European kit and following, and the transport +train will be relieved of the incubus of thousands of +useless mouths to be provided for. In speaking of the transport +train, I should mention that Sir Robert Napier is in +no way accountable for its absurd organisation and consequent +break down. The Bombay authorities are alone responsible. +When the expedition was first seriously talked +of in August last, Sir Robert Napier drew up a scheme for +a transport train, which I am assured by those who have +seen it was excellent. This he sent in on the 23d of August. +No notice was taken of it until the middle of September, +when Sir Robert was told that a scheme would be prepared +by the commissary-general. Another precious month elapsed, +and then in the middle of October the present absurd scheme +was hatched. It was sent to Sir Robert for his opinion, and +he returned it with the memorandum that it was perfectly +impracticable. The authorities persisted, however, in the +teeth of his opinion, in having their plan carried out; and +it was only upon Sir Robert’s repeated and earnest +remon<pb n="176"/><anchor id="Pg176"/>strances that they consented to increase the number of European +inspectors and native overlookers to the present ridiculously-insufficient +number. The result has abundantly proved +the wisdom of the General, and the fatuity of the men who +would interfere in every detail, and overrule the opinion of +the man to whom everything was to be intrusted from the +day of his leaving Bombay. Events have abundantly proved +the error of intrusting the management of the expedition +to civilians and men of bureaux. +</p> + +<p> +And now, as to the advance brigade. Neither its composition +nor its date of advance are yet known for certain. The +Chief is not a man who says anything about his plans until +the moment arrives when the necessary orders are to be given. +It will probably comprise the whole or part of the 33d regiment, +the 4th regiment—a portion of which is expected to +arrive here to-day—the 10th Native Infantry, the Beloochees, +the Punjaub Pioneers, the Bombay Sappers and Miners, the +3d Native Cavalry, and the Scinde Horse. Of these, two +companies of the 33d regiment, and two of the 10th Native +Infantry, are already at Attegrat, thirty-five miles in advance. +Three more companies of each regiment started to-day. +Brigadier-general Collings goes on with them, and +will for the present command the advance. Part of the +Pioneers are here, as are the Bombay Sappers. These go +on in a day or two to make the road near and beyond Attegrat, +the intermediate part having been already made by the +33d regiment. The Scinde Horse are some eight or nine +miles away, and near them are the 3d Native Cavalry. I +have omitted in my list of troops for the advance brigade to +name the mountain trains, and three guns of the artillery, +which will be carried by elephants. These animals are +ex<pb n="177"/><anchor id="Pg177"/>pected here in a day or two. I should be sorry to meet them +on horseback in a narrow part of the pass, and I expect that +they will cause terrible confusion among the transport-animals, +for they have all a perfect horror of the elephant—that +is, the first time that they see one. When they get to learn +that he, like themselves, is a subjugated animal, they cease +to feel any terror of him. +</p> + +<p> +There is one pleasing change which has taken place since +I last left Senafe, and which I have not yet spoken of. I +mentioned that Sir Charles Staveley, when he was up here, +ordered huts to be built for the muleteers by the 10th Native +Infantry. These are now completed. They are long, leafy +bowers, running along in regular lines between the rows of +animals. They are very well and neatly built—so regular, +indeed, that it is difficult at a short distance to believe that +they are really built of boughs. They may not be as warm +as houses, but they keep off the wind, and afford a great +protection to the muleteers at night. The division here, that +of Captain Griffiths, is the first which landed. It is now in +very good order, and will accompany the advance brigade. +The disease up here is, I am happy to say, on the decrease. +The sick animals are out at Goose Plain with the artillery. +</p> + +<p> +Yesterday, in the afternoon, there was a parade of the +33d, and 10th Native Infantry; small parties of the Royal +Engineers, of 3d Native Cavalry, and of Scinde Horse were +also present. Sir Robert Napier rode along the line, and +the regiments then marched past. The little party of the +3d Cavalry came first, followed by the Scinde Horse, and +offering as strong a contrast to each other as could be well +imagined. The one was upon the European, the other upon +the Asiatic model. The Scinde horsemen were much the +<pb n="178"/><anchor id="Pg178"/>heavier and more powerful men; and although they have not +the military seat or the dashing air of the 3d, they had in +their dark dresses, and quiet, determined look, the appearance +of men who would be most formidable antagonists. +Their horses, although ugly, are strong; and in a charge, +it was the opinion of many of those who were looking on, +that they would be much more than a match for their more +showy rivals. The Scinde Horse are more discussed than +any regiment out here; and, indeed, it is so famous a +regiment, and is always stationed so much upon the frontiers, +that its coming was looked forward to with considerable +curiosity. Its appearance is certainly against it; that +is, its horses are very ugly animals; but this is not the +fault of the regiment, for its station is so far in Northern +India that it cannot procure, except at very great cost, any +but the native horses. I believe that this is almost the only +objection which can be urged against the regiment; the men +are remarkably fine; indeed, as I before stated, they are too +heavy for cavalry. They are, as a whole, drawn from a +much higher and wealthier class of natives than the men of +any other regiment; they enlist in the Scinde Horse just as +a young nobleman takes a commission in the Guards. There +is a very great feeling of <hi rend="italic">esprit de corps</hi>, and mutual good-feeling +between officers and men; and all are proud of their +regiment. The uniform, as I have said in a previous letter, +is a long, dark-green coat, with red turban. It is the men’s +own choice, and is quite an Eastern uniform; their long +curved sabres are also quite Asiatic. The men provide their +own carriage; and from this point the transport train will +not be called upon to assist them in any way beyond carrying +their provisions. I alluded before to the wretched ponies +<pb n="179"/><anchor id="Pg179"/>they brought with them; but the case has been explained to +me, and there is no blame to be attached to the corps on this +score. The men were provided with camels to carry their +baggage, and were told that these would do for Abyssinia. +While upon their march down to the sea-coast a telegram +arrived, stating that camels would not do; and the men +were obliged to sell their camels at a sacrifice, and to buy +any ponies they could get. I speak of the men doing so, +because the horses, &c., are not the property of the Government, +but of the men, or rather of some among the men. +</p> + +<p> +The Scinde Horse are, and always were, an irregular +cavalry, upon what is called the <q>sillidar</q> system. Government +contracts with the men to find their own horses, accoutrements, +arms, food, and carriage. This is the irregular +cavalry system, upon which all native cavalry regiments are +now placed. The sum paid is thirty rupees a month. Here, +however, only twenty rupees are to be paid, as Government +finds food and forage. The advantages of this system for +frontier-work are enormous. The men are scattered over a +wide extent of country in tens and twelves, and it would be +manifestly impossible to have a series of commissariat stations +to supply them. Whether the system is a good one for regiments +stationed for months or years in a large garrison town +is a very moot question, and one upon which there is an immense +difference of opinion. These regiments would have +no occasion for carriage. If they had to move to another +town, it would be cheaper for them to send their baggage in +carts than to keep up a sufficient baggage-train. When, +therefore, the order to march on service comes, there are no +means of transport. The 3d Native Cavalry are exactly a +case in point. Four years ago they were changed from a +<pb n="180"/><anchor id="Pg180"/>regular to an irregular cavalry regiment; but, like all regiments, +the 3d had its traditions, and stuck to them. They +adhere to their old uniform and equipments, and are, at a +short distance, undistinguishable from a European hussar +regiment. They pay extreme attention to their drill, and +are to all intents and purposes a regular cavalry. They are +mounted on excellent horses, and are certainly wonderfully-cheap +soldiers at three pounds a month, including everything. +But they have been long stationed at Poonah, and consequently +had no occasion to purchase baggage-animals, and +came on here without them. When it was found that the +regiment had arrived here without baggage-animals, there +was, of course, considerable angry feeling in the official mind; +and had it not been that the animals were dying in the plain, +and that no other cavalry regiment was at hand to go up with +the advance brigade, it is probable that they would have +been kept in the rear of the army. However, they were +badly wanted, and so carriage was given to them. I have +already spoken in the highest terms of their bearing and +efficiency. There is one point, however, in the sillidar system +which strikes me as being particularly objectionable. It +is not always with the men themselves that this contract is +made; it is with the native officers. Some of the men do +supply their own horses, &c.; but the native officers each +contract to supply so many men and horses complete, buying +the horses and accoutrements, and paying the men ten +rupees a month. This, I cannot help thinking, is an unmixed +evil. The man has two masters—the man who pays +him, and the Government he serves. This evil was carried +to a great extent in the days before the mutiny; and I have +heard a case of a regiment at that time of which almost the +<pb n="181"/><anchor id="Pg181"/>whole of the horses and men were then owned by one native +officer. Had that man been hostile to the Government, he +might have taken off the whole regiment. Efforts have since +been made to put a stop to this excessive contracting, and no +officer is now allowed to own more than six of the horses. +It appears to me that it should be altogether done away with, +and that each man should find his own horse. +</p> + +<p> +But I have wandered very far away from the parade-ground +at Senafe. After marching past the regiments formed +in close order, the General then addressed a few words to +each. To Major Pritchard of the Engineers he said how +glad he was to have his own corps with him again, and that +he hoped some day to employ them to blow down the gates +of Magdala. To the 33d he said a few words complimenting +them upon their efficiency, and regretting that they +would not be led by the gallant officer whose loss he and +they deplored. The General then addressed the 10th Native +Infantry, complimenting them upon their conduct and +efficiency. Sir Robert spoke in Hindoostanee, a language +of which my knowledge is unfortunately confined to about +eight words; none of these occurred in the speech, and +I am therefore unable to give the text. The regiments +which go on are delighted at the prospect of a move, and +the 10th Native Infantry cheered lustily as they marched +off with their band at their head. Fresh troops arrive as +fast as others move on. While I have been writing this a +portion of the 4th King’s Own have marched in, as also +have the mule-battery with the light rifled guns from Woolwich. +The most important, however, of to-day’s arrivals has +been that of a hundred bullock-carts. A string of camels has +also come in, as I can tell by the lugubrious bellowings and +<pb n="182"/><anchor id="Pg182"/>roar which at present fills the air. The pass is therefore +proved to be practicable, and the camels and bullock-carts +will be a great assistance to us. The natives must be astonished +at seeing this string of carts coming up a place which +all their tradition must represent as almost impassable even +for their own cattle, which, like goats, can go almost anywhere. +Their ideas about us must altogether be rather +curious; and as we know by experience how a story expands +and alters as it goes, the reports which must reach +the extreme confines of Abyssinia must be something astounding. +Even here they are not contented with the facts. +There is a report among them that the cattle we are buying +up are intended to be food for a train of elephants we have +coming to help us fight Theodore, and that we have also a +lion-train, which will shortly be here. Our news from Magdala +is as before. Theodore is slowly, very slowly advancing. +He has got heavy cannon, and insists upon taking them with +him. Waagshum, the king who has been besieging Magdala, +has fairly run away, and the tribes around Magdala +have all sent in their allegiance to Theodore. Theodore has +been writing to Rassam as if he were his dearest friend, and +Rassam has been answering him as if he were Theodore’s +grovelling slave. Theodore’s letter runs in this style: <q>How +are you? Are you well? I am quite well. Fear not. I am +coming to your assistance. Keep up your head. I shall soon +be with you. I have two big cannon. They are terrible, but +very heavy to move.</q> Rassam answers somewhat in this +style: <q>Illustrious and most clement of potentates, I, your +lowest of slaves, rejoice at the thought that your coming will +throw a light upon our darkness. Our hearts swell with +a great joy;</q> and more fulsome stuff of the same character. +<pb n="183"/><anchor id="Pg183"/>Dr. Blanc’s letters to us are at once spirited and manly. +<q>We are delighted,</q> he says, <q>at the thought of your +coming. How it will end no one can say. We are all prepared +for the worst; but we have at least the satisfaction of +knowing that our deaths will be avenged.</q> Up to the last +moment of doing this we have no day fixed for Sir Robert +Napier’s advance upon Attegrat. The 5th is named as the +earliest date upon which a messenger can return from Grant’s +party, and say when Kassa, the King of Tigre, will be at +Attegrat to meet the General. It is probable that the King +will start almost immediately Grant arrives, and in that case +Sir Robert will have to move forward at once in order to +arrive first at the place of meeting. I go on to-morrow, +unless any circumstance should occur to change my plan. +</p> + +<p> +The scientific and the general members of the expedition +are arriving very fast. Dr. Markham, the geographer of the +expedition, has long been here. Mr. Holmes, of the British +Museum, arrived yesterday, as archæologist; he is going off +to-morrow to a church a few miles distant, to examine some +manuscripts said to exist there. The Dutch officers arrive +up to-day, and I hear two French officers arrive to-morrow. +In reference to these foreign officers, I am assured to-day +by a staff-officer, to whom I was regretting that more was +not done for them, that they are not really commissioners. +It may be so; but as, at any rate, they are officers who are +paid by foreign governments, and are allowed to accompany +the expedition, I confess that I am unable to see any essential +difference. The staff-officer assured me, as a proof of +the beneficent intentions of the authorities, that these foreign +officers would not be charged for their rations. John Bull is +indeed liberal. He is much more sharp as to the <q>specials;</q> +<pb n="184"/><anchor id="Pg184"/>for a general order was actually issued the other day, saying +that <q>gentlemen unconnected with the army were to pay +for a month’s rations in advance.</q> With the exception of +the scientific men, who are all sent out by Government, +and must, I suppose, be considered official persons, there are +only four gentlemen here <q>unconnected with the army,</q> +namely, three other special correspondents and myself. I +remarked to a commissariat-officer, with a smile, when called +upon to pay my month in advance, that <q>I thought I might +have been considered as good for the payment at the end of +each month as officers were.</q> <q>Ah,</q> said the astute officer, +<q>but suppose anything were to happen to you, whom should +we look to for payment?</q> The reply was obvious: <q>But, +on the other hand, suppose that unpleasant contingency +should occur, of whom are my representatives to claim the +amount for the days paid for but not eaten?</q> At whose +suggestion this general order was issued I know not; but I +do know that anything more paltry and more unworthy the +general order of a large army was never issued. Who issued +this order I know not, for I cannot but repeat that no one +could be more kind and considerate than are Sir Robert +Napier and every member of his staff to all of us. +</p> + +<p> +I must now close my letter, for it is getting late, and my +hand is so cold I can hardly hold a pen. I may just mention +that colds are very prevalent here, and that at night +there is an amount of coughing going on among the natives +in the tents around, that is greater even than could be heard +in an English church on a raw November morning during a +dull sermon. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> + +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Senafe, February 3d"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Senafe, February 3d"/> +<pb n="185"/><anchor id="Pg185"/> + +<dateline>Senafe, February 3d.</dateline> + +<p> +When I closed my letter on the evening of the 31st +ultimo, I had intended to start early the next morning. +My plan was to have gone on to Attegrat, to have stopped +a day or two there, and to have returned in plenty of time +to have gone up again with Sir Robert Napier. After I had +closed my letter, however, I heard that he would probably +leave on the 5th; I should not, therefore, have had time to +carry out my plan, and determined, in consequence, to wait +here another day or two, and then to move on quietly in +advance of the General, so as to be able to devote a short +time to the examination of the country in the neighbourhood +of each of the stations. I had another course open to me. +The extreme advanced party are pushing on beyond Attegrat, +on the road to Antalo. Should I go with them, or +should I remain near head-quarters and report the regular +progress of events? It was more amusing, of course, to be +pushing on ahead; but it seemed to me that the interest of +the public lay not in the road, but in the progress of the +troops along that road. I have therefore made up my mind +to jog quietly along with the main body of the army, the +more especially as the meeting between Sir Robert Napier +and the King of Tigre will be one of the most interesting +events in the whole expedition. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Speedy has arrived in camp. He is to act as political +adviser to General Napier, and his arrival is a general +matter of satisfaction. Mr. Speedy was at one time an officer +in the 81st Foot; he afterwards exchanged into the 10th +Punjaubees, of which regiment he was some time adjutant. +He afterwards left the service and wandered out to +Abys<pb n="186"/><anchor id="Pg186"/>sinia, where he entered the service of Theodore, and assisted +him to organise and drill his army. Finding he was likely +to share the fate of other British in this potentate’s employ, +and to be cast into prison, Mr. Speedy threw up his appointment, +and has since been living in Australia. General +Napier, having heard of him, wrote to beg him to come; +and Mr. Speedy received the letter just in time to come off +by the mail, with a kit, according to popular report, consisting +only of two blankets. He is not, I am happy to say, +an Abyssinian worshipper. Dr. Krapf, Colonel Merewether’s +adviser, is so. He seems to think that the black is a very +much finer specimen of humanity than the white man; and +that deeds which would be punished in the latter are highly +excusable, if not laudable, when perpetrated by the former. +Dr. Krapf is not singular in his ideas. Had his lines lain +in England, I have no doubt that he would have been one +of Governor Eyre’s foremost persecutors. I am very glad +that a healthier tone is likely to be introduced in our dealings +with the natives. Mr. Speedy rode out yesterday, at the +General’s request, to some of the villages round, called upon +the priests, and offered a present of money for the relief of +the poor and distressed. The answer in each case was the +same. The priests said that had it not been for our coming, +a period of severe distress and suffering would probably have +occurred. The crops had been devastated by the locusts, and +the present drought would seriously affect the next harvest. +Thanks, however, to the money which the English had distributed +through the country in payment for cattle purchased +by the commissariat, and for hay, wood, milk, &c., and for +the hire of transport, the people were better off than usual; +and therefore, with the exception of three or four dollars for +<pb n="187"/><anchor id="Pg187"/>the aged and infirm, they would decline with thanks General +Napier’s gift. +</p> + +<p> +The Engineer Corps here have been very busy for the +last few days practising signalling. The method used is +Captain Bolton’s system, which is in use in the Royal Navy. +The method in which these signals are managed on land is, +however, less known, and is specially interesting, as it is the +first time they have been used in actual warfare. The present +is, indeed, a sort of experiment; and if it prove successful +and useful, it is probable that the system will be generally +introduced into the army. The Engineers are giving lessons +in the art of signalling to soldiers of the 33d regiment, and +will teach men of each regiment out here, so that the system +may be fairly tested. The signals by day are conveyed by +flags; there are white, white-and-black, and black, according +to the alphabet or method to be used. A single wave to the +right means one; two waves, two; and so on up to five; the +remaining four numbers are made either by waves to the left +or by combination of wavings to either side. These numbers, +like the flags on board ship, refer to a number in a book with +which each signalman is furnished. Let us suppose, for +example, that a general situated upon rising ground wishes +to signal to any given division of his army. He makes +the signal, let us say, <q>five.</q> The signal is passed along +by the line of signalmen to the fifth division, who all, by +waving their flags, testify readiness. The signal is then +passed, <q>1015.</q> This means, <q>move to the support of the +fourth division,</q> which is instantly done without loss of time. +Or the flags may be addressed to all the corps of the army; +and the order, waved over thirty miles of country, might be, +<q>Concentrate on the centre division.</q> It is, indeed, +asto<pb n="188"/><anchor id="Pg188"/>nishing how much time would be gained by using this method +instead of sending a score of aides-de-camp scouring all over +the country. At night the signals are conveyed by means of +flashing lights. These are extremely ingenious in their construction. +The signaller, who is always accompanied by a companion +with a signal-book, has a brass tube some eight feet +long, at the extremity of which is a lantern; in this lantern +a spirit-lamp burns; underneath this spirit-lamp is a receptacle +in which is placed a powder composed of magnesium, +resin, and lycopodium, very much like the mixture with which +stage-carpenters produce lightning by blowing it through a +candle. This lamp acts on precisely the same principle. A +bellows is attached to the brass tube. This bellows the signaller +works, either in short or in long pressures; and the +air, as it passes up, goes through the powder and forces a +small quantity of it through a pair of nozzles placed close +to the spirit-flame. The result is a brilliant flash, which is +long or short according to the pressure upon the bellows. +This light can be seen at a very great distance, and two or +three parties of signallers placed upon hill-tops could convey +an order a distance of fifty miles in a very few minutes. +The difficulty, of course, lies in the liability to error. A +single puff more or less might entirely change the order. +1021 might mean <q>Concentrate upon your left flank;</q> 1022 +<q>Concentrate upon your right.</q> It is all very well to say +that each signal is repeated, and therefore that a mistake +would be instantly corrected; but we all know what mistakes +occur in telegraphic messages, even if we pay for their being +repeated. The system appears as good and as little liable to +error as anything of the kind could be; but when we consider +that a miscounting of the flashes of light or of the +<pb n="189"/><anchor id="Pg189"/>waving of a flag might entirely alter the order given, it is +evident that the risk is so great that a general would rather, +if possible, despatch a mounted officer with written instructions. +At the same time, the system for distant communication +is undoubtedly adapted to expedite the movements of +an army over a large tract of country. General Napier has +taken a great interest in the experiments, and I have no +doubt the system will be thoroughly tried during the present +expedition. The apparatus for each signalling-party is singularly +complete and handy; it is carried in two baskets or +mule-panniers, and includes everything which could be required, +comprising a light-tent, a canteen, flags, lanterns, a +supply of alcohol and powder, a small case for writing in the +rain, signal-books, &c. Each of these double panniers contains, +in fact, everything required for the signalmen; and +with twelve such apparatus, distributed among parties placed +upon hill-tops, signals might be flashed at night from London +to Edinburgh. +</p> + +<p> +The elephants for the guns have not yet arrived, but are +expected to-morrow, and in that case will go on with Sir +Robert Napier; who, I believe, will positively leave in the +afternoon. As several other bodies of troops move on the +same day, it will make his entry into Attegrat quite an +imposing affair. In fact, I should not be surprised if the +sight of the elephants created quite a stampede among the +natives. Speaking of elephants, a sad accident occurred a +few days since at Sooro. These animals are to be met with +in the mountains between that place and the sea, and three +have been killed by officers of the Beloochees. Accordingly, +Major Beville and Lieutenant Edwards went out to try their +fortune, and were successful in finding a herd of them +feed<pb n="190"/><anchor id="Pg190"/>ing in a valley. The animals scented them before they could +get within fair shot, and began to run rapidly away; whereupon +Edwards rushed out, crossed a small intervening nullah, +and followed upon their heels. Elephants, however, are not +animals that like being followed, and accordingly one of +them turned and charged his pursuer. Edwards fired at +him, but failing to check him, took to his heels. The animal +overtook him in his descent of the nullah, seized him +in his trunk, dashed him to the ground, and endeavoured +to trample on him, but fortunately the slope of the ground +rendered this a matter of difficulty. At this critical moment +Major Beville arrived, and fired into the animal, who, most +fortunately, upon finding himself wounded, quitted his victim +and fled. Extraordinary to state, poor Edwards was not +killed; but he has received some severe internal injuries, +and is now lying at Sooro in a very precarious state. +</p> + +<p> +The bullock-carts, which arrived the day before yesterday, +aroused, as I anticipated, the admiration and wonder of the +natives to the highest point. I believe that they never saw +a wheeled vehicle before; and the apparition of the long +line of carts, drawn by the splendid Brahmin cattle, coming +up laden with stores, from a defile which all their traditions +from time immemorial have represented to them as being +impracticable even for their own sure-footed little cattle, +completed their assurance that the English are truly sons +of Sheitan. Our energy and resources must indeed appear +something quite supernatural to this primitive people. +</p> + +<p> +One of my principal grounds for objection to the Abyssinians +is that they are such an intensely lazy race. Now, +if people like to be lazy, and to eat the scanty bread of idleness +instead of the large loaf gained by hard work, it is +<pb n="191"/><anchor id="Pg191"/>their own business, and a mere matter of taste, in favour +of which there is much to be said. But the Abyssinian, +although intensely lazy, is by no means satisfied to eat the +bread of idleness. The noble savage is keenly awake to the +value of labour, and insists that all the members of his family, +with the exception only of himself and such of his sons as may +be big enough to have their own way, work like the veriest +slaves. You will see a great lout of a man walking lazily +along towards the camp, armed with his spear and shield, +while before him stagger his old mother, his wife, his sister, +and his four or five children, carrying enormous bundles of +hay. I am not exaggerating when I say that you will frequently +see little girls not more than seven years old carrying +bundles of hay of forty-five pounds weight into camp; +and poor little mites of three or four years old carry a proportionate +burden. The weight is never carried on the head, +always upon the back, fastened by a thong of leather, which +goes over the arms just below the shoulder and across the +chest. The child or woman, as the case may be, walks bent +forward, almost double. The men never carry loads; it is +beneath the dignity of a noble savage. The whole of the +work is done by the females and by the little boys of the +family. My blood has fairly boiled many times, and I have +longed heartily to lay my riding-whip across the shoulders +of these lazy scoundrels, who are too lazy to work, but not +too proud to drive their little children to work, and to live +upon the result. The boys do, as I have said, a certain +amount. When they are quite little they do nearly as much +as their sisters, but as they grow up they do less and less, +and it is rare to see a boy over twelve years old carrying +a burden. The women here carry their babies on their backs, +<pb n="192"/><anchor id="Pg192"/>and not across the hip as the Hindoostanee women always do. +The children are held in a sort of small shawl of leather, +which is wrapped tightly round the mother, and only the +top of the little thing’s head is generally to be seen. In +this way the mother has her arms free, and can carry about +her bundle of wood or grass for sale; but in this case the +burden is, of course, carried in her arms before her. I have +often wondered that the children survive the double risk—of +suffocation, from pressure against their mother’s backs, and +of sunstroke, from the sun coming down full upon the unprotected +tops of their little bald heads. They do not seem +to mind it, and I do not think that I have heard more than +one or two infants utter a wail when being carried in that +position. I can only suppose that the natural warmth of +their mothers’ naked backs is agreeable to them; but, with +our present style of dress, it is not an experiment which I +should recommend an English nurse to try with a fractious +child, unless she wishes a coroner’s inquest to be held upon +it, with possibly other more unpleasant proceedings to follow. +</p> + +<p> +The stores in the commissariat-yard here continue to increase, +thanks to the amount brought up by the native cattle. +At present there is, I understand, about a month’s consumption +for the troops here and in advance. The arrangements of +the commissariat-yard are very good; as, indeed, most of the +arrangements of that department have been throughout the +expedition. At times this yard presents a most interesting +spectacle. Here are large piles of rice- and flour-bags, and +beside them the Parsees weighing out the rations to the +numerous applicants. A little farther on is the butcher’s +shop, where the meat-rations are cut up and distributed. +Here is a large enclosure fenced round with bushes, and +<pb n="193"/><anchor id="Pg193"/>containing cattle purchased for the troops from the natives. +Here are some hundreds of mules unloading stores which they +have brought from below. Farther on are more being loaded +with grass, to go down for the sustenance of the animals in +the pass. Here, again, are hundreds of women and children +laden with grass, which an officer of the commissariat is +weighing and paying for; giving, however, the money to +the men; who, the instant the women have brought in the +grass, send them off, and exert themselves so far as to receive +the money. Near these is the wood-yard, where a similar +scene is being enacted. Back again by the store-yard are +a host of native cattle, which are waiting to receive stores +to take forward to Attegrat. The contract price for this +is a dollar and a half per head; and I am glad to say that +we can obtain as many cattle as we like for the purpose. +Here we have men; the only employment, indeed, which the +Abyssinian men will undertake is driving cattle, or rather +following them, for they never attempt in any way to guide +or influence their movements, but dawdle after them with +their eternal spears and shields, knowing well that the sagacious +little cattle will always follow the beaten track. Close +by is a space marked off for a market. Here we have groups +of men squatted about everywhere among their cattle, sheep, +and goats: there are a good many donkeys too, and a few +mules. For these latter they have raised the price very +greatly during the last month: then a good mule could be +bought for fifteen dollars, now they charge thirty-five and +forty. They are very independent too, and refuse to abate +a single dollar in the price they ask: if they do not obtain +the exact sum they demand, they will, after a certain time, +mount and ride off to their villages, to return again next +<pb n="194"/><anchor id="Pg194"/>day with the price probably enhanced two or three dollars +over that demanded on the first occasion. +</p> + +<p> +I must now close this, as I am on the point of starting for +Attegrat. I shall endeavour to send a few lines in from +Goun-Gonna, the next station; for as the next mail starts +in four days, and I shall be getting farther away every +march, a letter from Attegrat could not get in here in time +for the post. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Goun-Gonna, February 4th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Goun-Gonna, February 4th"/> + +<dateline>Goun-Gonna, February 4th.</dateline> + +<p> +I feel quite glad to be again getting forward. Senafe +has so long been my advanced post, that it seemed as if we +were never going to get beyond that point. However, now +I am once more <hi rend="italic">en route</hi>, I hope that I shall have no further +stop—beyond a few days at Attegrat, to see the meeting of +the King of Tigre and the General—until I arrive at Antalo. +Antalo will be about ten days’ march from here, and, once +there, half the distance to Magdala will have been accomplished. +My ride yesterday afternoon was one of the most +pleasant I have had here. The temperature was delightful—a +bright sun and a strong cool wind; the road, too, for some +distance, across an undulating plain, descending sharply into +a magnificent valley, was a charming change after the monotony +of the long valleys, up and down which I have been +riding for the last six weeks, and the wide expanse of the +sandy plain of Zulla. After leaving Senafe the plain falls +for some distance, and after about five miles’ ride we came +down to the lowest point, where, in ordinary times, a small +stream of water crosses the road, but which at present is +perfectly dry, except where it has accumulated in large pools. +<pb n="195"/><anchor id="Pg195"/>By the side of one of these, about two miles to our left, we +saw the camp of cavalry and sick animals. I may mention, +by the way, that although the disease among the mules is +much upon the decrease, and has altogether lost the virulence +which at first characterised it, there are still, by the last +weekly statement, two thousand six hundred animals, including +camels, unfit for work, from one cause or other. +</p> + +<p> +In this watered valley are immense herds of cattle. The +plain is covered with a thick coarse grass, which has now +been everywhere cut, either by the troops themselves for their +horses, or by the natives for sale to us. Crossing the plain, +we have a steep rise up the side of the hill, and then, surmounting +the rise, we find ourselves at the head of a valley +running nearly due south. This we descend; and from +the number of villages perched on the eminences on either +side, it is evident that water is generally found in this locality. +It was probably, at some not very distant time, much more +thickly populated than it is at present, for many of the villages +are ruinous and deserted. This valley is very pretty, +and, after the treeless plain of Senafe, is doubly agreeable, +for the sides of the hills are everywhere clothed with the +gigantic candelabra cactus. These are now just bursting into +blossom. The blossoms grow from the extremity of each of +the innumerable arms of the candelabra; and as their colour +varies from white, through delicate shades of pink, to dark-red, +the effect is very beautiful; indeed, with their regular +growth, and perfect mass of blossom, they look as if they had +just been transplanted from the grounds of the Messrs. Veitch +to this country for some gigantic flower-show. There is a +church in this valley, which is much venerated as being the +scene of the martyrdom of some eight or ten Christians in the +<pb n="196"/><anchor id="Pg196"/>time of the persecution. My knowledge of Abyssinian history +is, I confess, of too meagre a nature for me to give you +an approximate date of this affair. Their bones are, however, +still to be seen; and from this I should say that the event +could not be very distant, as in a climate subject to great +heat and heavy rains as this is, it is probable that bones would +very speedily decay. The church is at some distance from +the road, and is, like most of the churches here, upon a hill. +I did not, therefore, turn aside to examine it, as I shall have +plenty of opportunities of examining churches hereafter, and, +with the exception of the martyrs’ bones, it presents no feature +of peculiar interest. Descending the valley, we find it +to be only a feeder of a wide valley running east and west. +The valley was, like Goose Plain, covered with coarse grass, +and contained immense herds of cattle. The side opposite to +that by which we had entered it was very steep; the mountains +are nearly bare, and near their summits present an +appearance which, had I not seen it also upon the rock at +Senafe, I should have said had been caused by a very slight +fall of snow. I learn, however, that it is a very small lichen, +which is abundant upon the rocks. I presume that this lichen +is at present in flower or seed; for I did not observe the +peculiar appearance at my first visit to Senafe, and it is so +remarkable that I could not have failed to notice it had it +existed at that time. We know now that we are near our +destination, for we see the grass-cutters going along with +great bundles of hay. We cross the valley and enter a +smaller valley, which forks at a slight angle with the large +one. As we fairly entered it, we saw near its extremity the +camp of Goun-Gonna. A prettier situation could hardly +have been selected. The hills to the right-hand are almost +<pb n="197"/><anchor id="Pg197"/>perpendicular, and upon a ledge about half-way up a village +is nestled. The stream which flows down it has been used +for the purpose of irrigation, and the bright green of the +young crops was a delightful relief to our eyes. On the left-hand +the hills are less precipitous, but are still very steep. +The valley is less than a quarter of a mile in width, and ends +abruptly with a semicircular sweep a short distance above the +spot where the camp is pitched. What adds greatly to the +beauty of the valley is, that it contains several of those immense +trees with distorted trunks and bright-green foliage, +whose real name is a moot point, but which are alike claimed +to belong to the banyan, india-rubber, or tulip-tree species. +At any rate, whatever be their species, they are one of the +most picturesque species of tree I ever saw. They cover an +immense extent of ground, and their trunks sometimes lie +along the ground, sometimes rise in strange contorted forms. +Their bark is extremely rough, and whitish-gray, and if seen +without the foliage, would be certainly rather taken for strange +blocks and pillars of stone than for the trunks of trees. In +the camp we found a company of the 33d and the head-quarters +of that regiment, who are upon their way to join the +wing at Attegrat, and who had just come in, as had the +mountain battery of steel guns under Colonel Milward, both +having left Senafe two or three hours before ourselves. There +was also a convoy of the Transport Train on their way to the +front, and also a troop of the Scinde Horse. This station +must be fifteen hundred feet below Senafe, and the difference +of temperature is surprising. Last night I did not at all feel +cold, whereas at Senafe it was next to impossible to keep +warm, however numerous the wrappings in which one enveloped +oneself. This morning I have been up a very pretty +<pb n="198"/><anchor id="Pg198"/>little broad valley, about a quarter of a mile in length. This +branches off from the larger valley exactly opposite the camp, +and it is down this that the little stream of water comes. The +valley is clothed in shrubs and small trees, and the water falls +into it over a perpendicular rock fifty feet high at its upper +extremity. It put me very much in mind of a Westmoreland +glen, with a little <q>force</q> at the extremity. Here, too, to increase +the resemblance, I found some old friends whom I have +not seen since I left England, namely dog-roses, common +brambles, and honeysuckle. Down by the water’s edge, upon +the rocks, kept moist by the water-spray, grew maiden-hair +and other ferns. The air was sweet with arbutus-flowers, +and the plash of the water was most grateful to the ear after +the dry plains of Zulla and Senafe. Here, too, we had the +aloe in flower, with its long heads of reddish-orange blossom. +Here we had a sort of scabius ten feet high, and a rush or +water-grass twenty feet in height, with its plumy reed. Here +over the shrubs crept the familiar clematis, with its great +clusters of white downy reed. Here was a sort of tares, with +their pink blossom, and growing straight and strong to a +height of four or five feet. Upon the trees were perched +wood-pigeons and doves, which called to one another with +their soft coo. Altogether it was a lovely little spot, and it +was with the greatest reluctance that I left it to come back +to camp to write this letter previous to starting for Fokado, +the next station. +</p> + +<p> +You will see that, although the mail only goes once a +week, I am, as long as I am moving forwards, obliged to +write every three days, as for every day I move further the +mail takes another day to come down. It is, in addition, no +easy matter to find time to write when upon the march. One +<pb n="199"/><anchor id="Pg199"/>rises at daybreak, which is little before seven, and, using the +very greatest diligence, it is nearly two hours before the tent +can be struck, and the mules loaded and upon their way. I +generally give them a start of an hour, and then ride on, +overtake them, and see that all is going on well. If so, I +ride forward, and use some friend’s tent until my own arrives, +which, if the distance is fourteen miles, will not be until +nearly four in the afternoon; for my mules, with stoppages +to readjust baggage, &c., do not make above two miles an +hour. Then there is pitching the tent, drawing rations, and +seeing the horses watered and fed; and by the time dinner +is ready and our work done, it is past six o’clock. One generally +puts one’s rations with those of friends; and by the +time the meal is over, and the succeeding pipe and glass of +arrack-and-water discussed, one is far more fit for bed than +for sitting down to chronicle the events of the day. My next +letter will be from Attegrat, where I expect to stay for a +few days. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Attegrat, February 7th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Attegrat, February 7th"/> + +<dateline>Attegrat, February 7th.</dateline> + +<p> +I have been so long looking forward to arriving at Attegrat, +that, being here, I feel that I have made a long +stage into the interior of Abyssinia. I confess, however, that +I am disappointed in Attegrat. It is foolish, I own. I +ought by this time to have learnt the utter hollowness and +emptiness of all statements connected with the country; and +everything we have been told, everything we have been led +to expect, has alike turned out utterly incorrect. Sometimes +we have been told pleasant things, sometimes we have been +threatened with dire calamities; but in both cases the +vati<pb n="200"/><anchor id="Pg200"/>cinations have turned out equally incorrect. Guinea-worms +and tape-worms, fever and cholera, small-pox and dysentery, +tetse-fly and sunstroke—all these have been distinguished by +their absence: but as a counterbalance, so have Colonel +Phayre’s green fields and gushing springs at Zulla, his perennial +water between Sooro and Rayray Guddy, and his +emporium of commerce at Senafe, which turned out a village +of six mud-huts. Still, in spite of previous disappointments, +I confess I clung to the idea that I should find a town of +considerable size at Attegrat. The place was marked in +Roman capitals upon the maps. It had been spoken of as a +town flowing with milk and honey; it was to be one of our +main halting-places; and altogether one certainly did expect +to find rather more than twenty hovels, a barn called a +church, and another ruinous barn which was once a palace. +But before I describe Attegrat, let me detail my journey +here from Goun-Gonna. I sent my baggage off at seven +o’clock in the morning, at the same time that the baggage of +the head-quarters of the 33d and Colonel Penn’s battery of +mountain guns started. I then explored the pretty valley I +described in my last, and afterwards went into a friend’s +tent and finished my letter to you. At twelve o’clock I +started for what I was told was an eleven miles’ ride; but it +turned out the longest sixteen I have ever ridden. Every +officer and man to whom I have spoken—and among others +I may quote Colonel Milward and Colonel Penn of the Artillery, +and Major Cooper, and all the officers of the 33d—agreed +with me that it was over sixteen miles. Colonel +Phayre’s and the quartermaster’s departments’ gross miscalculation +of distances is becoming a very serious nuisance. +It is absolutely cruel upon the men. If soldiers are told +<pb n="201"/><anchor id="Pg201"/>that they have a sixteen miles’ march across a rough country, +and beneath a hot sun, they will do the distance. It may +be hard work; but they know when they start what is before +them, and they make up their minds to it. But when they +are told it is eleven miles, at the end of that distance they +begin to look out anxiously for their camping-place. They +become cross and impatient, and are infinitely more fatigued +than they would have been had they been told the real distance +that was before them. +</p> + +<p> +I now resume my account of my day’s march. For the +first two miles the road mounted very steeply, until we were +at least a thousand feet above Goun-Gonna, and had gained +the great plateau out of which the valley is cut. It must +have been a very difficult ascent before the road was made +by the Sappers and Miners and Punjaub Pioneers. I do +not know which parts of the road between Senafe and Attegrat +are to be assigned to each regiment; but I believe +that the road between Senafe and Goun-Gonna was executed +principally by the 33d, assisted by the 10th Native Infantry, +and that beyond this point it has been entirely the work of +the Sappers and Miners and the Pioneers. The road from +Goun-Gonna to Attegrat has not been continuously formed, +as it is from Zulla to Goun-Gonna. It is only made in very +difficult places, where it would have been next to impossible +for a mule to have passed without its burden getting over +its ears or tail. In other places we have the mere track +worn by the people of the country; but where we ascend or +descend gulleys or ravines, or where the road winds along +on the face of a hill, when a false step would have involved +a roll of a thousand feet down, there a fair road has been +cut, which, although frequently steep, is always safe and +<pb n="202"/><anchor id="Pg202"/>passable. The road, take it as a whole, from Goun-Gonna +to this place, is about as good as a bridle-road among the +Welsh or Scotch hills. There are some extremely-steep +places, where one mule falling down would stop a whole +force, and where the loads shift terribly; but there are no +places which cannot with care be surmounted, even by a +baggage-train of mules. But this has been the easy portion +of the journey. From this place to Antalo the difficulties +will be vastly greater; beyond Antalo still greater again. +It is for this reason that I look forward to a time when my +knapsack will contain my whole luggage, and when sleeping +in the open air will be the rule for everyone. Upon getting +fairly up to the top of the hill-side from Goun-Gonna, a +flat of apparently almost illimitable extent stretched away +before us. Two or three of the curious conical hills which +abound in this country rose at a considerable distance, and +in the horizon were the peaks of the most fantastically-jagged +range of mountains I ever saw. Nothing in the Alps will +give any idea of the varied outline of this range of peaks. +They are serrated and jagged in every conceivable form. +Single peaks and double peaks, peaks like a cavalry saddle, +and great square-topped blocks with perpendicular sides. +The plain itself was dotted with low bushes, and covered +everywhere with a luxuriant growth of grass, or rather hay, +which reached up to the horses’ girths. The ground was +strewn with loose stones, which, with the numerous small +holes, made any progress beyond a walking-pace difficult and +even dangerous. The stones, and indeed the whole formation +of this upper plateau, are composed of a very white +sandstone. In the pass up to Senafe the formation was entirely +schist, broken and cracked-up in a wonderful manner, +<pb n="203"/><anchor id="Pg203"/>with numerous veins of quartz, and occasional walls of very +hard volcanic stone traversing it. On the plain of Senafe, +and throughout the whole country this side of it, we have a +superincumbent bed of sandstone, which has evidently been +exposed for a very long time to the action of water. The +great rocks of Senafe are everywhere water-worn, and were +islets, which rose above the level of a great sea, and resisted +the action of the water, which has cleared away the sandstone +around them to the general regular level of the plateau. +Traversing the plain, we found that the seemingly almost +boundless level was apparent rather than real, for the road +constantly wound to avoid great valleys, which everywhere +penetrated far into it. The sensation of coming suddenly +upon a valley of 1000 or 1500 feet deep when apparently +travelling upon a level plain was very singular. It quite +upset all our preconceived notions of scenery. One found +that the mountains to our left, which had appeared to rise a +thousand feet or so above the plain, were really double that +height from the bottom of the before-invisible valley which +intervened between ourselves and them, and that the plain +we were traversing was not a plain at all, but a succession +of flat mountain-tops. Sometimes these valleys ran so far +into the plateau that the road would have to diverge too +much from the straight line to pass round their heads, and +in these cases we descended some hundred feet and mounted +up the other side. The view down some of these valleys +was extremely fine, the mountains beyond frequently rising +for miles in an unbroken perpendicular wall of two or three +thousand feet. The finest view, however, was about two +miles from our halting-place; and this, although I have seen +much splendid scenery in my varied wanderings, was +cer<pb n="204"/><anchor id="Pg204"/>tainly the finest and most striking scene I ever beheld. Our +path was winding along the face of a high mountain, along +which our pioneers had cut a path some ten or twelve feet +wide. We were perhaps a hundred feet above the general +level of the plateau, but were passing round the head of a +valley which lay some fifteen hundred feet below us. This +valley was only a short branch of a broader valley which +ran at right-angles to it, and beyond and in the middle of +which a number of isolated hills rose up like islands; these +were all flat-topped, and rose to the exact level of the general +plateau. Some had sloping sides, others were perfectly perpendicular; +and it required no stretch of the imagination to +picture the time when a mighty river was sweeping down +this great valley, and when these island-mountains breasted +and divided its waters. To our right this valley was ten or +twelve miles wide, and the numerous islands presented an +extraordinary vista of precipice and slope. On the opposite +side of the valley the plateau extended for a mile or two, +and then rose into lofty rounded mountains; more to the +left it stretched away for many miles, and the view was +bounded by the extraordinary fantastic range of peaks of +which I have already spoken. It was a most glorious view, +and, broken by the lights and shadows thrown by a sinking +sun, will always remain in my recollection as the most extraordinary +and magnificent landscape I ever saw. +</p> + +<p> +We arrived at Fokado at half-past four, getting in half +an hour before our baggage, which had been eight hours and +a half upon the road, and quite determined that in future, +whatever labour it involved, we would not again let it out of +our sight. The break-down of a baggage-animal, if one is +at hand oneself to see that one’s servants instantly and +pro<pb n="205"/><anchor id="Pg205"/>perly reload it, is an affair of ten minutes at most; but if +the servants are left to their own devices, it will occupy +over half-an-hour. First of all there are ten minutes wasted +in deploring the calamity, another ten in undoing the cords, +and at least twenty more in repacking and getting under +way. Fokado, like all our camping-stations, lies in a slight +basin; this basin is, like the rest of the plateau-land, covered +with long grass. A dozen men with scythes could cut enough +in a day to supply a cavalry regiment; but they would have +to be very careful to choose such portions of the plain as are +not covered with stones. As it is, the grass-cutters are supplied +with very small sickles, which do very well to hack off +a bunch of grass, but which are of little use towards getting +in any large quantity. Fortunately the natives cut and bring +it in in considerable amount, and I am able to purchase an +abundance from them; for no forage is issued by the commissariat +for our baggage-animals, and it would be out of +the question to expect our syces to go out and cut grass after +a long and fatiguing day’s march. There is a well at Fokado +from which plenty of cool and moderately-pure water is obtained. +After having seen my tent erected and my rations +drawn and on the fire, I walked on with two or three officers +of the 33d to see the church. It stood, as most of the +churches here do, upon slightly-rising ground, and was surrounded +by a high wall, with the gateway entering beneath +a sort of tower. Having paid my dollar—the modest tariff +here demanded for admission—I entered the enclosure. It +was in a state of the utmost disorder; loose boulders and +stones were strewn everywhere, and I saw no signs whatever +of graves. This was the case in the other three churches I +have since visited, and is the more singular as the +grave<pb n="206"/><anchor id="Pg206"/>yards I saw and described coming up the pass, and which +were those of the Mahometan tribes who inhabit that part +of the country, were so carefully constructed and so religiously +preserved. I have not seen a single grave since I +entered the Christian part of Abyssinia. Near the church-door +was a framework of three cross-poles, and from this +were suspended, by straw ropes, two large stones of sonorous +qualities. These were the church-bells. The church itself +was a low edifice, built of rough stones, with large blocks +forming the door-frame. Entering, I found myself in a low +chamber, the roof being supported by four rough stone columns. +The floor was littered down with rushes, and had +exactly the appearance of a stable. On the wall was a rude +half-length fresco of the Virgin, squinting terribly; and on +the door leading to the next chamber was a skin or parchment +with a somewhat similar painting. Having bowed +deeply before each of these portraits at the request of the +officiating priest, I was admitted into the next chamber, +which was precisely similar to the first, but, having no windows, +it only received such light as came in through the +crevices of the doors. There was some demur as to my +entering the next chamber, which indeed had been refused +to all the officers who had been previously there; but I +pointed to my white solar hat; and this and the fact of my +not being in uniform convinced them, I believe, that I was +a priest; for I should mention that the Abyssinian priests +are distinguished by wearing white turbans, all the rest of +the population going bare-headed. I was therefore admitted +into the holy of holies. This was a more lofty chamber than +the others, and was lighted by a window high up on the side +wall. Across the room, at a distance of about a yard from +<pb n="207"/><anchor id="Pg207"/>the door, hung a screen about six feet high; this screen was +made of roughly-embroidered canvas, and was apparently +intended to prevent the eyes of the worshippers in the second +chamber catching a glimpse of the <hi rend="italic">penetralia</hi> when the door +was opened. Looking round the end of this curtain, I saw +an erection resembling a painter’s easel. A parchment or +skin was stretched across the upper portion, and on this probably +was a painting of some sort; but as it was wrapped +up in a cloth, I was unable to examine it, as I was not +allowed to go beyond the line of the screen. Returning, +I noticed in one corner of the first chamber some long sticks, +with a double bend at the top; that is, resembling in form +a cross, with the top piece broken off. These are used in +the service. Near them, in a niche in the wall, were some +pieces of iron fastened together so as to make a jingling noise +when shaken. These, no doubt, supply the place of the bell +at the raising of the host. I have omitted to say that in +the churchyard were two rough fonts; they were round +blocks of stone, about two feet and a half high and eighteen +inches in diameter; the hollow at the top for water was +about eight inches deep. I have seen no fonts in the other +churches I have entered. +</p> + +<p> +The following morning I started for Attegrat, a march +of about eleven miles. For some distance the road kept +along the top of the plateau, which was here undulating, and +the road in many places was very rough. At last we came +to the brink of a valley, into the bottom of which we had to +descend. How anything like a laden animal ever got down +before the road was made it is next to impossible to imagine. +We came along a beaten track to the top of the valley, and +we could see the path again going straight along below us +<pb n="208"/><anchor id="Pg208"/>from the bottom; but there was no trace of any track or +path down the tremendously-steep descent; and I suppose +the little bullocks, which are as sure-footed as goats, and +the donkeys, were allowed to pick their way down as they +liked best. Fortunately, we were not reduced to this alternative, +which would certainly have ended in three out of +our four baggage-animals breaking their necks, even if the +fourth—a sturdy little Massowah mule, with the zebra-marks +upon his back and legs—had managed to get in safety to the +bottom. A road has been cut along the face of the hill by +the Sappers and Pioneers; and this road, although exceedingly +steep in some places, is yet perfectly practicable. It +is, however, only six feet wide, and in two or three places +even less, and consequently a train of mules are a long time +getting down; for if the load of one shifts and gets over his +ears, all the rest must wait until it is readjusted-no easy +matter upon a steep incline. If one fall from weakness or +disease, there would be no resource but to roll him at once +over the edge of the path into the valley below. Fortunately, +none of these contingencies happened to us. The loads all +got on to the animals’ necks, but our men and ourselves +were able to keep them balanced there until we reached the +foot of the hill, when all the loads had to be taken off and +entirely repacked. Just at the foot of the incline was a +village. During our journey across the plateau from Goun-Gonna +to this point we had only passed Fokado and one +other village. We saw many down in the deep valleys +around whose heads we had skirted, but upon the flat level +of the plateau we did not see a single habitation. There +were numerous herds of cattle, but these probably come up +to graze upon the thick grass during the day, and descend +<pb n="209"/><anchor id="Pg209"/>into the valleys for water at night. We also passed some +curious piles of stones upon the plateau-land, which I omitted +to mention in my description of that part of my journey. +These piles were thirty or forty feet in diameter, and five or +six feet high; they were of stones roughly thrown together, +and had I met with them in England I should have supposed +that they had been merely cleared off the fields; but here +there were no signs of cultivation, and the stones were too +thickly strewn everywhere to render it probable that any +Abyssinian cultivator would have undertaken the labour of +clearing piles of stones of this size off his land—a work +which, without wheeled vehicles, would be very great. These +heaps always occurred near the track, and were generally +surrounded by bushes. I passed at least twenty of them. +It is possible that these cairns may be burying-places; but +the deserted position, the fact that they were far from villages, +and the labour which they must have taken to make, +all seem to negative this supposition. Besides which, there +was hardly the regularity about their shape which one meets +with in the burying-cairns of even the most savage nations. +I confess that they are to me a perfect mystery. In the +village at the foot of the descent was a church which was +exactly similar to the one at Fokado. It had no fonts that +I could observe, but boasted of a gong in addition to the +sonorous stones for summoning the faithful to prayers. In +the enclosure, lying among the stones, was a large volcanic +bomb, the first of the sort I have seen in the country; it +had apparently been brought there as something strange, and +perhaps supernatural, and had therefore been put on holy +ground; for the enclosure within the walls is holy in +Abys<pb n="210"/><anchor id="Pg210"/>sinian eyes, and we are always required to take off our hats +on entering the outside gates. +</p> + +<p> +From this village to Attegrat the road keeps in the bottom +of a broad valley, the great part of which is ploughed up +and ready for the seed, which is, I suppose, sown before the +June rains. The soil is light and good, in many places a rich +light loam, which would delight an English gardener’s heart. +The ploughs are drawn by oxen, and are exactly similar to +those I have seen in parts of Italy, except that the share of this +is broader and does certainly more work. Indeed, it is by no +means badly adapted for shallow ploughing on a light ground. +A ride of about five miles down the valley brought us to a +slight rise in the ground, and on surmounting this, Attegrat +lay before us. My first impression was that of disappointment, +for, with the exception of its containing two or three +larger buildings, it differed in nothing from the other villages +we have seen. The valley, at the point where Attegrat lies, +is about two miles wide, and the twenty or thirty flat-roofed +huts, which, with the church and a ruined palace, constitute +the city, stand on rising ground nearly in its centre. On the +left of this valley, near the slope, is the British camp. Behind +it the ground rises gradually, affording camping-ground, +if necessary, for a considerable force. Indeed, with the exception +of some ploughed fields round the town, the whole +valley is well suited for a camp. The force at present here +are the five companies of the 33d regiment, whose camp, with +that of Penn’s mountain battery of steel guns and the Royal +Engineers, is the first we arrive at. Next to the 33d lines +are the commissariat stores. A few hundred yards farther +down in the valley is the camp of the six companies of the +10th Native Infantry. Their tents, like those of the European +troops, are upon the slope. Beyond them this slope becomes +<pb n="211"/><anchor id="Pg211"/>much steeper, and accordingly the 3d Native Cavalry are +camped in the bottom. Next to them come the Mule Train. +The divisions here are the Lahore Mule Train and the A Division +under Captain Griffiths. It was this division which first +landed, and brought up the pioneer force. It has been ever +since in the front, and is now in admirable condition. The +Egyptian, Arab, Italian, and, in fact, all the drivers, except +only the Hindoostanee drivers, have been during the last few +days sent down to the coast to be returned to their own +countries, and their places have been filled with the Hindoo +dhoolie bearers, and others whose services will be no longer +required, now that the regiments have all to march without +followers. It need hardly be said that this will very greatly +improve the efficiency of the division, for the Hindoo, if he +has less strength than the Arab, Egyptian, or Persian, is yet +amenable to discipline, and will, to the best of his power, +carry out the orders he receives; whereas the other men were +utterly reckless and disobedient, and could not be trusted +out of reach of the eye of their officers. The camp of the +Scinde Horse is still farther down the valley, beyond the +transport lines. Sir Robert Napier arrived yesterday afternoon. +His camp had been pitched for him on some slightly-rising +ground in front of the 33d lines, and distant three or +four hundred yards. To-day, however, the tents are being +struck, and will be pitched in a line with the 33d tents, and +forming a connection between them and the artillery. His +tent, therefore, is in the exact centre of the European line, +with the artillery on his right, the 33d on his left flank. +</p> + +<p> +I now proceed to describe Attegrat. The most conspicuous +building, as seen from our camp, is a detached sort +of fortress, which looks like nothing so much as the castle of +<pb n="212"/><anchor id="Pg212"/>Bluebeard in a pantomime. It stands on a rising knoll, and +consists of a square building of two stories high. Upon the +top, and greatly overhanging each side, are four extraordinary-looking +erections, like great dog-kennels or pigeon-cots, +but which must be six or seven feet square. Almost +the whole of these constructions project over the walls. What +may be the use of these curious appendages to the tower, it +is impossible to say. Next to this square tower stands a +building as incongruous with it in its construction as it is +possible to conceive. It is round, and has a high thatched +roof, like a beehive. In addition to these main structures +are several low sheds. The whole are enclosed in a high +wall with a tower in it, underneath which is the gateway. +The buildings are, no doubt, of stone, but they are all plastered +over with mud, and look as if made of that material. +As I have said, it is exactly one’s idea of Bluebeard’s castle, +and one expects to see sister Anne waving her handkerchief +out of one of the pigeon-cots at its summit. Certainly, if +the gate were to open, and a stout figure in an immense +pasteboard head, with a blue beard trailing upon the ground, +and surrounded by a host of retainers also with big heads—which +their chief would, of course, belabour occasionally with +his staff—were to issue out, it would be in such admirable +keeping with the place, that one would feel no astonishment. +And yet this fortress has its history, and has stood its siege. +It seems that the king or chief of this part of the country used +seldom to live in his palace in the town itself, and his brother +had his abode there. The brother took too much upon himself, +and the jealousy and ire of the chief were aroused, and +he ordered his brother to move out of the palace. This he +did, but constructed at half-a-mile from the town this +for<pb n="213"/><anchor id="Pg213"/>midable castle. A disagreement arose, and the king attacked +the castle, which he took after twenty hours’ siege. The +castle is at present inhabited by the wife of a chief—I cannot +say whether it is the same chief, for dates in Abyssinia +are somewhat confused—who is a prisoner of Gobayze, King +of Lasta. She has, I hear, taken a vow never to go out +of doors while her husband is in captivity. Passing Bluebeard’s +castle, it is a good half-mile to the town. At the +right-hand on a rising rock is the church, which at a +distance exactly resembles a Swiss châlet. It is, of course, +surrounded by its wall, and within the enclosure grow some +of the gigantic candelabra cactus. The church itself is more +lofty than any I have yet seen. It is square, and is covered +with a high thatched roof, the eaves of which project all +round a considerable distance, and are supported by poles. +Upon paying the usual fee, I was admitted in the enclosure, +and saw at once that this church was of far greater pretensions +than any I had yet seen. The entrance was by a doorway +of squared beams, with two arches, each cut out of one +piece, and each ornamented with five rolls of wood underneath. +Entering this, we were in a sort of lobby or hall. +The walls of this were covered with frescoes representing the +feats of the founder of the church, who was either the father +or grandfather of the present chief. Here that redoubted +warrior is represented spearing an elephant; again he is +kneeling and taking aim at a lion, whose claws are of truly-formidable +dimensions. Here there are two or three battle-scenes, +in which he is defeating his enemies with immense +slaughter. To judge by his portraits, the founder of the church +was a fair, round-faced man, with short hair and a slight +moustache. I passed from this vestibule into the church itself. +<pb n="214"/><anchor id="Pg214"/>Its construction differs entirely from the others I have seen, +inasmuch as instead of the sacred chamber being placed +beyond two others, it was in the centre of the building, +and was surrounded by a passage, the walls of which were +covered with frescoes representing events in Old and New +Testament writing, and in the lives of the saints. Here +we have St. George nobly spearing the dragon, while the +King of Egypt’s daughter and her maidens stand by with +clasped hands and admiring eyes. Here we have St. Peter +suffering martyrdom by being crucified head downwards; +with a vast number of other martyrdoms. The biblical events +all strictly follow the scriptural description; the only remarkable +difference being that at the Last Supper thirteen apostles +are represented as being present. In all these, as in the first +frescoes, the faces of the actors are represented as white; +while in the Temptation the tempter has his traditional sable +hue. These frescoes are all in the early Byzantine style, +and were they but really ancient, would be extremely curious +and valuable; but as the church is not, at most, more +than sixty or seventy years old, it is evident that they are +the work of some Egyptian or Greek artist brought down +for the purpose. I was not allowed to see what was in the +central chamber. Leaving the church, I crossed the town, +sixty or seventy yards, to where, at its other extremity, +stands the ruined palace. It is surrounded by a wall, which +encloses a considerable extent of ground. The principal portion +of the palace far more resembles a church than do any +of the actual churches of the country. It consists of a hall +fifty feet long by twenty-five feet wide, with a small round +room at the end opposite to the door. The entrance is underneath +a porch; and along this, at about eight feet from the +<pb n="215"/><anchor id="Pg215"/>ground, there are built into it a line of bullocks’ horns, with +their points projecting outwards. The hall was thirty feet +high to the springing of the roof, and must have been really +a fine hall, country and place being taken into consideration. +The greater part of one side-wall has, however, fallen; and +the roof is entirely gone. Some of the great beams which +crossed it lie on the ground, and it would be a matter of +considerable interest to inquire whence, in a treeless country +like this, these massive beams were obtained. The most +interesting portion of the ruin is the room beyond the great +hall, and which was probably the king’s own room. It is +entered by a double-arched door, of workmanship and design +similar to that I have described at the church; the two buildings +being coeval, and the woodwork unquestionably worked +by some foreign artificer brought here for the purpose. The +chamber itself is about fifteen feet across, with three deep +recesses, each lighted by a small double-arched window of +the same pattern as the door. The room was about twelve feet +high, and was ceiled by a circular arched roof, which still +remains. It is made of reeds or rushes sewn side by side, +like the basketwork of the country, and dyed with a pattern +in reel and blue. This was all worth describing in the palace; +there were several other buildings attached to it, but none +worthy of any special notice. +</p> + +<p> +About a mile beyond Attegrat, upon the other side of +the valley, there is another church, whose site might well +have been selected by the monks of old for a monastery, so +charming is the grove in which it is situated. This grove +is of considerable extent, and consists of several sorts of +really lofty trees: there is a thick undergrowth—with plenty +of paths for walking, however—of all sorts of plants. There +<pb n="216"/><anchor id="Pg216"/>are some tall bananas with their broad, graceful leaves, the +first I have seen since I left Bombay. There are roses and +honeysuckles, wild figs and acacias; over all of which a thick +cordage of various creepers twines in clusters. To add to the +enjoyment, the whole air is heavy with the fragrance of the +wild jasmine, which grows in great bushes, covered with +clusters of its white star-like flowers. While sitting down +with a party of three or four officers of the 33d enjoying the +delightful shade and the charming fragrance, the priest with +several natives came up to us, and taking seats, or rather +squatting—I do not think an Abyssinian knows how to sit +down—beside us, they entered into a species of conversation +with us, inquiring particularly, as do all the natives, if we +were Christians. Presently they made signs they would like +to see some sketches I had been taking; but when they took +them in their hands they were completely puzzled, turned +them upside down and sideways, and even looked behind +at the back of the paper: they could evidently make nothing +of them. Presently the priest, with an air of great self-satisfaction, +made signs that he could write, and demanded +if I could do so. I had no writing at hand, but in my +sketch-book I had a column of your paper which I had cut +out for purposes of reference; this I gravely handed over, +and it was received with a perfect shout, first of astonishment, +then of delight. They had never seen such even and +perfect manuscript in their lives. The priest evidently thought +I must be a priest of high grade, and he at once offered to +show us the church, which he did without demanding the +usual dollar from any one of the party. It was so similar +to those I have previously described that I need not say +anything about it, except that in the holy of holies, in place +of a frame like a painter’s easel, the shrine was composed of +<pb n="217"/><anchor id="Pg217"/>three poles, seven or eight feet long, inclining towards each +other, and meeting at the top like a tripod: a piece of cloth +was wrapped round the upper part of this frame. I cannot +say whether it concealed anything, but it did not appear to me +to do so. Below this a skin was stretched between the three +legs, so as to make a sort of shelf, and upon this were placed +a number of withered flowers. I should mention that, in the +inner chamber of most of these churches, those who have +entered with me have agreed that there was a faint but +distinct odour of incense. It may be, however, that in all +of them might have been some flowers, such as jasmine, the +perfumes of which may have deceived us. It is rather singular +that the grape has not been introduced into a country +which would seem by its climate to be well suited for it. +There is no wine to be obtained here; and the sacrament +is administered by squeezing a raisin into a chalice of water. +Raisins are, however, very scarce; and in some churches +years have elapsed without the administration of the sacrament, +owing entirely to the absence of even a single raisin. +</p> + +<p> +In my description of Attegrat I have omitted to say, +that although the town itself does not contain more than +twenty or thirty houses, yet the population within a short +distance is very large; for on the hill-side, behind the church +I have just been describing, there are numerous villages, +which are probably known in the local tongue as lower +and upper Attegrat, new and old, eastern and western +Attegrat. Attegrat, at any rate, is their centre; and +judging by the number of natives one sees in and about +the camp, and the number of houses in the various villages, +there must be a population of six or eight thousand clustered +in a circle of three or four miles from the town. +</p> + +<pb n="218"/><anchor id="Pg218"/> + +<p> +I have now described the general features of the place, +and shall close and send off this letter, although it is only +four days since I posted my last, and the next mail is not +advertised to start for another eight days. I shall write +again for that post; but my experience has taught me that the +mail here is one of those charming uncertainties upon which +it is impossible to calculate. Besides this, I may at any +moment find myself compelled to push on; and, in that case, +there would be no saying when my next letter would reach +you. I hope, however, to be enabled to give you a full +description of the visit of the King of Tigre, who is expected +to-morrow or next day. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Attegrat, February 13th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Attegrat, February 13th"/> + +<dateline>Attegrat, February 13th.</dateline> + +<p> +Our grand Christmas farcio-pantomime, entitled <q>Harlequin +and the Magic Durbar; or the Ambassador, the Archbishop, +and the Barbarian Cortege,</q> has been played to an +immensely amused and numerous audience. The title had +been advertised as <q>The King, the Archbishop, &c.;</q> but, +owing to the unavoidable absence of the principal actor, the +Ambassador was at the last moment substituted for the King. +The opening scene may be described as <q>The camp of the +Knight Errant, Sir Robert Napier, with Bluebeard’s Castle +in the middle distance, and the town of Attegrat and the +mountains in the background.</q> Flourish of trumpets! A +herald arrives, the part being enacted by Major Grant, who +states that the King is unable to come in person to wait upon +the valiant Knight, but that he had sent his dear brother, +the Grand Vizier, together with his Archbishop, to assure +the Knight of his friendship. Bustle and excitement in the +<pb n="219"/><anchor id="Pg219"/>camp. A pause. Sound of strange and barbaric music in +the distance. This gradually approaches, and then, from the +rear of Bluebeard’s Castle—of which a full description was +given in my last—enter the head of procession, consisting of—three +men blowing upon cow-horns. These were inserted +into the ends of long sticks, and in appearance were very like +the long horns used by heralds of old. Their sound is lugubrious +in the extreme. Next follows a man of tall stature, +beating violently upon a tom-tom. Next follow the musqueteers +of the body-guard; dress—dirty clothes miscellaneously +draped; bare heads frizzled and oiled; arms—any +stage-properties which might come conveniently to hand; old +Portuguese match-locks, and new fowling-pieces from Liège; +double-barrelled guns, and guns with one long and frequently +crooked barrel, the large proportion quite incapable of being +fired. Next follows the Ambassador of the King on a mule, +with gorgeous caparisons of stamped green and red leather, +bearing the tiger rampant, the arms of the great potentate +his master. The Ambassador is clothed like his body-guard, +in whity-brown cloth of coarse cotton, with red ends. +With this, as a sign of his dignity, he envelopes not only his +body, but his mouth and chin, as do the chiefs behind him. +He wears round his neck a fur collar with long tails. The +Ambassador of the great King is bareheaded. His hair +is arranged, as is the manner of the chiefs of his people, +in a series of little plaits, which run in parallel lines from his +forehead over the head to the nape of the neck. This style +appears to be copied from the Assyrian bas-relievos in the +British Museum. Next to the Ambassador of the great +King rides the Archbishop, upon a mule similarly caparisoned. +The Archbishop is clothed in absolutely white robes, with +<pb n="220"/><anchor id="Pg220"/>turban to match. These dignitaries have both stirrups to +their saddles, in which the great-toes only are placed, to, I +should say, the imminent danger of those members if the +mule should stumble. Behind these great personages ride +the inferior chiefs. These, either from a feeling of modesty, +or from a lack of animals, ride two upon each mule. Behind +follow the spearmen of the guard on foot. These are +about thirty in number, and are armed with lance, sickle, +and shield. When this procession has fairly wound round +the corner of Bluebeard’s Castle, it halts to await the arrival +of a herald from the good Knight. All this time the +barbaric music continues to sound, and is answered by sister +Anne and Fatimah in the castle, and by the women all over +the country, by a prolonged cry on a single note, kept up +with a quavering modulation for a considerable time. This +is a welcome on the part of the people of the country to +the ambassador of the great King. While the procession +halts, the soldiers of the Knight Errant flock out to inspect +them. Irregular chorus of soldiers: <q>My eye, Bill, +if these are the sort of chaps we’ve come to fight, we sha’n’t +have much trouble with them.</q> The remainder of the pantomime +I will, for brevity’s sake, describe as if it had been +a real event in the expedition; but the reader must bear in +mind that the whole piece, its accessories and appointments, +were infinitely funny and amusing. After conferring with +the Commander-in-chief, Major Grant and Mr. Speedy went +out to meet the procession, and conducted them through the +camp to the tent of General Merewether. During their progress +the wild music continued to sound, and nearly effected +a stampede of the whole of the animals in camp. In the +mean time three companies of the 33d regiment, two of the +<pb n="221"/><anchor id="Pg221"/>10th N.I., with the bands of both regiments, were drawn up +in line in front of and facing Sir Robert Napier’s tent, an +interval of about fifty yards being left. On the flanks of the +line two squadrons of the 3d N. Cavalry and of the Scinde +Horse were drawn up. When all was ready, the cortége advanced, +horns blowing and tom-toms beating. At their head +strode Mr. Speedy, who is nearly six feet six inches tall, and +who carried in his hand a sword nearly as tall as himself. +As the procession approached, the military bands struck up +and the troops saluted. The din at this moment was astounding. +The bands played different tunes, and the cow-horns +and tom-toms played no tune at all. Mr. Speedy with some +trouble marshalled his ragged irregulars in line, and, this +accomplished, led the two ambassadors to the chief’s tent. +The tent was one of the long narrow tents called native +routies, and, being lined with scarlet, made a very good tent +for the reception. Sir Robert Napier was seated with his +helmet on at one end. The ambassadors were introduced by +Mr. Speedy, who acted as interpreter, and after bowing very +deeply, they shook hands with the chief. They then took +seats upon the ground beside him; as many officers as could +find room without crowding ranged themselves along the sides +of the tent, and also took their places behind Sir Robert +Napier, the back of the tent being open as well as the front. +The conversation commenced by one of the ambassadors +stating <q>that the King of Tigre, his brother, had sent him +to assure the British Commander-in-chief of his friendship. +The King would have come in person to welcome Sir Robert, +but he had been just solemnly proclaimed king, and it was +strict etiquette that he should not leave his capital for thirty +days afterwards.</q> +</p> + +<pb n="222"/><anchor id="Pg222"/> + +<p> +Sir Robert Napier replied that he was very glad to receive +the assurance of the King’s friendship; that we ourselves had +come with the most friendly intentions to all in Abyssinia, +with the exception only of those who held our countrymen +captives; that in our progress we should violently interfere +with no one; and that, our enterprise over, we should return at +once to our own country. The Ambassador said <q>that the +King and everyone in the country wished well to our cause; +for that Theodore was a tyrant who had ravaged the whole +country, and had murdered thousands of people, including +his own near relations. Therefore, he hoped, that we should +punish him for his wickedness.</q> He then said <q>that the +King was very anxious to see Sir Robert, and would be very +glad if he would let him know how long he was likely to remain +at Attegrat.</q> The General answered <q>that he could +not say when he should leave; that his preparations were not +yet completed; but that when he was able to fix a day for his +departure he would, if the King wished, send a message to let +the King know; but that he feared he could not give sufficient +notice for the King to arrive in time.</q> The Ambassador then +made a statement which showed that his last question was not +<hi rend="italic">bonâ fide</hi>, and that the King had really no intention of coming +at all. He said <q>that the King had a large army—that as +long as he was with them they behaved well, but that he could +not leave them, for if he did so they would spread over the +country and oppress the peasantry.</q> The Chief replied that, +<q>under these circumstances he could quite understand the +King’s reluctance to leave his army, but that he hoped on his +return from Magdala he should have the pleasure of meeting +his Majesty.</q> There was then a pause in the conversation, +and the Ambassador begged to know when he might be +al<pb n="223"/><anchor id="Pg223"/>lowed to leave. Sir Robert answered that early in the +morning he would show him our soldiers, and after that he +could leave whenever he chose. A few trifling articles were +then presented to the Ambassador and Archbishop as tokens +of friendship, and after again bowing and shaking hands with +Sir Robert Napier, they took their leave, and, surrounded by +their guards, moved off amid the din of music which had +greeted their arrival. The next morning at seven o’clock the +whole of the troops turned out to a general parade. The Ambassadors +were present. After riding along the whole line, +the General and staff took up their position in front, and the +33d regiment were put through the bayonet exercise, which +they performed exceedingly well, especially when it is considered +that it is nearly four months since they last did it. +They then went through the platoon drill; but the natives did +not at all comprehend this. They heard the snapping of the +locks as the Sniders were supposed to be fired in rapid volleys. +When informed what was being done, they entirely disbelieved +it, and plainly said so, stating that no guns could be +fired so quickly as that. It is a very great pity that a small +number of cartridges were not broken up and served out as +blank cartridges; or better still, had a hundred ball cartridges +been served out to ten men, to have been discharged as +rapidly as possible against a rock on the hill-side. Weight +is of course precious, but the lesson those hundred cartridges +would have taught would have been cheaply purchased +at any cost. It was emphatically a penny-wise-and-pound-foolish +economy. Colonel Penn’s batteries of steel +guns were then examined, and these fired a few rounds with +blank cartridges. +</p> + +<p> +Our savage visitors, however, were more impressed with +<pb n="224"/><anchor id="Pg224"/>the artillery than they had been with the infantry. The +guns, they said, were small, and did not make much noise; +the infantry were pretty to look at, but of no use in a hilly +country, and their long lines would be very easy to shoot at. +These criticisms are very amusing on the part of the ragged +savages, of whom I heard an Irish soldier of the 33d say, +<q>And bedad it’s ashamed I’d be to have to fire me rifle at +such a miserable set of divils intirely. It ’ud be like killing +a definceless brute baste.</q> The general feeling in the camp, +indeed, upon the subject was that of disappointment. It was +exactly the reverse of <q>the stern joy that warriors feel in foe-men +worthy of their steel.</q> We did hope that if we were to +fight it would be against something in some way or another +formidable. We had heard a good deal about Theodore’s +army, who were said to be armed with guns and were drilled, +and we did have a faint hope that our foe would not be utterly +contemptible. But the first appearance of Abyssinian soldiery +has quite dispelled any such idea. Mr. Speedy and our interpreters +assure us that they are a fair sample of Abyssinian +troops. Why, Falstaff’s ragged regiment was a disciplined +and regular body to this band of savages. As for their guns, +I should say by their appearance that at least two-thirds would +burst at the very first volley fired, and would be infinitely +more dangerous to themselves than to anyone else. +</p> + +<p> +If, however, our visitors thought very little of the infantry +and artillery, they were greatly impressed by the cavalry. +The Scinde Horse and 3d Native Cavalry made several charges, +and these, they acknowledged, would upon level ground be +irresistible. The horses themselves also struck them particularly. +In Abyssinia there is nothing which could by the utmost +stretch of courtesy be called a horse. They have nothing +<pb n="225"/><anchor id="Pg225"/>but little rawboned ponies, together with mules and donkeys. +The cavalry animals, and those of the staff, therefore, strike +them as being prodigies of strength and beauty. It is satisfactory +to know that one arm of the service at least found +favour in the sight of our military critics, who, however, qualified +even that meed of approbation by adding that it was not +likely that Theodore would fight us upon ground where the +cavalry could charge at all. Our show, therefore, as a show, +was completely thrown away, and they saw nothing of the one +thing which would have impressed them—namely, an exhibition +of the powers of the Snider rifle. +</p> + +<p> +The next day the embassy took its departure with its barbaric +music playing, and the strange quavering cries of the +women answering it over the country. There is still a possibility +that the King of Tigre may himself come to meet the +Commander-in-chief either at Antalo or at some place on +our march thither. I hardly think, however, that he will +do so. These native kings are generally so faithless and +treacherous among themselves that they do not like to trust +their persons into anyone else’s hands. Still, as the Ambassador +was allowed to take his departure unharmed, it is quite +upon the cards that the King will muster up courage and +come in. +</p> + +<p> +The following is a summary of the news from the front, as +communicated to us by General Napier’s orders: +</p> + +<p> +<q>Letters were received on the 9th instant by General +Merewether from Mr. Rassam and Dr. Blanc, dated Magdala, +Jan. 17th, with enclosures from Mr. and Mrs. Flad, dated +King’s Camp, Jan 9th. All the prisoners are reported well up +to date. A detachment of troops, which had left Magdala on +Jan. 8th, had joined the King in his camp, and had received +<pb n="226"/><anchor id="Pg226"/>charge of a party of about 400 prisoners to escort from the +camp to Magdala. The imprisoned Europeans were among +the number. Their leg-fetters had been removed and handcuffs +substituted, so that they might march. It is said Mr. +Rosenthal would accompany them. The King was using +every endeavour to get the road made, working with his +own hands, and making the free Europeans help. He had +made some slight progress, and had arrived at the bottom +of the valley of the Djedda River. Mr. Rassam calculates +he would reach Magdala about the end of February with his +camp, though by abandoning the latter he could any day +arrive there. The people of Dalanta continue submissive; +but those of Davout had rebelled again. His soldiers had +suffered from the scarcity of provisions and transport. It +was reported at Magdala that Menilek, the King of Shoa, +had again set out for Magdala, better prepared to act against +Theodorus than on his former visit. A detailed communication +from one of the captives, sent to his friends in England, +and there published, has by some means reached the King’s +camp, and is in the hands of M. Bardel. Apprehensions are +entertained that it may do injury there.</q> +</p> + +<p> +These letters add but little to what we knew before. Our +last advice told us that Theodore was only distant a single +day’s march from Magdala,—which, by the way, is spelt +Magdalla throughout the summary, but which is pronounced +Māgdālā, the <hi rend="italic">a</hi> being always long in Amharic,—and that he +could at any moment ride in and fetch the captives confined +in that fortress, or could send those with him to Magdala +under a guard. He has chosen, it appears, the latter alternative. +The captives have at least the melancholy satisfaction +of being together. That the news of our coming has in no +<pb n="227"/><anchor id="Pg227"/>way influenced the tyrant’s treatment of them is shown by +the fact, that although their leg-chains have been removed to +enable them to march, yet handcuffs have been substituted in +their stead. +</p> + +<p> +From rumours among the natives, we hear that his cruelties +are more atrocious than ever. Women are being put to +death by being thrown down wells, at the bottom of which +spears are fixed point upwards. Men are executed by having +their feet first chopped off, then their hands, then their legs +at the knees, and then being left as food for wild-beasts. I +do not vouch for the truth of these stories; but they have been +brought by deserters from Theodore’s camp, and are generally +believed. I do sincerely trust that in no case shall we make +a treaty with this demon which may save him from the punishment +due to him. +</p> + +<p> +The great question here is, first, whether Theodore will +fight; and secondly, what we shall do if, when we arrive, he +offers to deliver the prisoners to us as the price of our instant +departure. As to the first point I can only repeat what I have +before said, namely, that I am of opinion that he will fight, +and I think fight at Magdala. The enormous trouble he is +taking in conveying cannon with him to Magdala points conclusively +to that result. If he only wished to carry his baggage +and treasure into Magdala he might easily, with the +force at his command, construct a mule-path in a few days +at the latest; but he clings to his guns, and he can only require +them so imperiously that he puts up with months of +hardship for their sake that he may defend Magdala against +us. These savages measure the offensive powers of a gun +entirely by its size, and by the noise it makes. Thus Tigre’s +ambassador regarded our mountain train as mere pop-guns; +<pb n="228"/><anchor id="Pg228"/>and no doubt Theodore believes that with the great guns his +European workmen have cast, and with the natural strength +of the fortress, he can easily resist the attacks of the English. +I believe that we shall find the King at Magdala, get there +when we will; and that as he will offer no terms that we can +accept, and as he will not assent to the demand for unconditional +surrender which we are certain to make, we shall +finally have to take the place by storm. The next question, +as to what our course will be if he offers to deliver up the +captives upon the condition of our instant retreat, is one +which it is very difficult to predicate upon. No doubt Sir +Robert Napier has instructions from home for his guidance +under such a contingency; but I cannot bring myself to +believe that these terms would be acceded to. +</p> + +<p> +And now as to gossip about this place. The Abyssinians +are celebrated by travellers in their country as being an intelligent +people. Intelligent is by no means the word, nor is sharp +nor cute; they are simply the most extortionate thieves that +the sun’s light ever shone on. Formerly the necessaries of +life were extraordinarily cheap here. Mercher, the Tigre +chief who acts as interpreter, tells me that, as an example, +fowls could be purchased at forty for a dollar. I venture to +say that, at the present moment, it is the dearest place in the +habitable globe. I have seen three eggs offered for a dollar. +This was, however, too much to be stood, and at present +seven is the tariff; that is, as nearly as possible, eightpence +apiece for very little eggs. An ordinary-sized fowl costs a +dollar; and with great bargaining two very small and skinny +ones can be obtained for that sum. Two pumpkins can be +bought for a dollar: for a quart of milk a dollar is demanded, +and I have seen it given. The commissariat give a dollar for +<pb n="229"/><anchor id="Pg229"/>about seventeen pounds of grain: if we buy it for our horses +in the camp—which we are obliged to do, as there are no +rations issued for our baggage-animals—we have to give a +dollar for about twelve pounds. The price of a good mule +before we came here was seven or eight dollars; this had +risen to thirty-two or thirty-three, at which the 3d Cavalry +bought a considerable number, and to thirty-seven, the average +price at which Captain Griffiths, of the Transport Train, +purchased a good many. General Merewether, however, by +one of those masterly <hi rend="italic">coups</hi> for which he is so distinguished, +has suddenly raised the market price 25 per cent, by giving +fifty dollars each for a lot of forty, among which were some +very indifferent animals. After this, of course, fifty will be +the current price, until General Merewether makes another +purchase for the public service, after which there is no predicting +the price at which they will probably arrive. It is all +very well to say that they are cheaper here than they are in +Egypt; that has, as far as I can see, nothing whatever to do +with the question, any more than it would be to say they are +cheaper than at the North Pole. The people were willing to +sell them at thirty-seven dollars for picked animals; why, then, +spoil the market by giving fifty? It is urged that we are in +want of mules, and that, by offering even more than they ask, +we shall induce them to send in larger quantities; but I cannot +agree that it is so. We were before paying 700 per cent +more than their ordinary price, and this would be sufficient +temptation to owners of any mules within a hundred miles—and +good mules are not common—to have brought them in. +Every mule fit for the purpose would have come in, and by +paying 900 per cent we can obtain no more. One source of +irritation has been, I am happy to say, if not put down, at +<pb n="230"/><anchor id="Pg230"/>least rebuked. After the parade the other day the Commander-in-chief +rode to the church, attended by most of the +mounted officers. The usual demand of a dollar a-head was +made, which Sir Robert very properly refused to pay, and +through the interpreter said a few appropriate words to the +priest as to money-changers in the temple. He refused, he +said, upon that ground to allow the charge of a dollar a-head +to be paid, but promised that upon his return from Magdala +he would present an altar-cloth at the church. +</p> + +<p> +I have not mentioned that oxen, for which even at the +enormously-enhanced prices at Senafe we paid six and a-half +dollars, are here charged sixteen and seventeen dollars; and +this with the plains in many cases containing thousands upon +thousands. Of course it is a great question as to how far +we ought to put up with such extortion as this. It is certain +that the French, under similar circumstances, would not do +so; but then the success of the French against native populations +has not upon the whole been brilliant; their case +therefore is no argument in its favour. If we chose to take +what we required, and to offer in payment the fair country +price, or even its double, of course we could do so, and could +thrash all Tigre if necessary; but, putting it in the mere pecuniary +light, would it pay? Much as I hate extortion, +dearly as I should like to punish the nation of thieves through +whom we are passing, I yet do not think it would pay. It +is hard to be cheated by a half-naked savage; but it is better +to put up with it than to undergo the amount of labour, +anxiety, and loss which savages could in our present circumstances +entail upon us. They are at present driving a thriving +trade by selling us part of the roofs of their houses. This +sounds strange, but is absolutely the fact. Between this and +<pb n="231"/><anchor id="Pg231"/>Senafe—a distance of forty miles—not a single tree is to be +met with which could be used for telegraph-poles: the engineers +were completely at a nonplus. At last we struck +upon the expedient of buying poles from the natives, and an +offer was made to give them a dollar for every six poles. +Since then Mr. Speedy, who has undertaken the negotiation, +has a complete levée of natives with poles. These poles are +perfectly straight, and must be fourteen feet long; they are +slight, much slighter than ordinary English hop-poles, and +they are very thin towards the upper extremity. The natives +use them for the roofs of their houses; but where they get +them from, or what tree furnishes them, is at present a mystery; +certainly I have seen no tree since my arrival in this +country which grows at all in the same way. Some of these +poles look freshly cut, but others are old and have evidently +been used in the roofs of houses. They would not be nearly +strong enough for an ordinary telegraph-wire, but can easily +enough carry the fine copper-wire used here. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Speedy has been requested by the Commander-in-chief +to wear the native attire; and his appearance, although +no doubt very imposing to the native mind, is yet extremely +comic to a European eye. Imagine a gentleman six feet +and a half high, with spectacles, wearing a red handkerchief +over his head, and shading himself with a native straw umbrella. +Round his neck he wears the fur collar with tails, to +which I have already alluded as part of a chief’s insignia; +over his shoulders is the native white-cloth wrapping, with +red ends; below this is a long coloured-silk garment; and +below all this the British trousers and boots. Mr. Speedy is +a capital fellow, and a general favourite with everyone; but +<pb n="232"/><anchor id="Pg232"/>his appearance at present is almost irresistibly inducive of +laughter. +</p> + +<p> +The climate of this place is as near perfection as possible. +It is not so hot as Senafe during the day, although even here +in a single bell-tent the thermometer registered 110° to-day at +eleven o’clock. But there is almost always a fresh breeze; +and excepting from nine to twelve, when the wind generally +drops, it is never too hot for walking. At night it is not so +cold as at Senafe; for although the glass goes down to 36° or +37°, there is no wind at night and very little dew, so that one +does not feel the cold as one did at Senafe. It is really a +delightful climate; and although 110° in a tent sounds hot, +the sensation of heat is nothing approaching that of a sultry +July day in England. There is no game here, with the exception +of hares, which are very plentiful. Major Fanshawe, +of the 33d, went out the other afternoon with his gun, and +returned in a couple of hours with a bag of nineteen hares, +an almost unprecedented amount of sport for two hours’ +shooting in an unpreserved country. The natives bring in +leopard-skins for sale: where they shoot them I cannot say. +They do not find any purchasers, for the amount of baggage +allowed is so small, and will be smaller beyond Antalo, that +no one will burden themselves with a pound of unnecessary +weight. +</p> + +<p> +The 33d went forward three days ago, and Sir Robert +Napier himself starts for Antalo on the 17th instant. If the +4th regiment arrive in time they will accompany him. I +close my letter rather hastily, as I have just heard there is +a mail expected to go three days before the regular packet. +</p> + +<p> +The Commander-in-chief has, since he started from the +sea, shown every desire to forward our objects in every way. +<pb n="233"/><anchor id="Pg233"/>We were invited to be present at the reception of the Tigre +ambassador, and Sir Robert very kindly sent in a <hi rend="italic">précis</hi> of the +information received from Magdala. I am very glad, for the +sake of my readers as well as myself, that in future I shall +have no fear of either being kept in the dark or of being debarred +from accompanying any expedition which may be on +foot. I am still more glad to be able to say that the position +of the foreign commissioners has been also improved. +They are now all forward here, and one of the Prussian officers +has been placed upon the Chief’s personal staff. This is much +more as it should be. Now that we are fairly moving forward, +bets are being freely exchanged as to the date of our arrival at +Magdala. The first of May is the favourite time. I hardly +think we shall be there as soon as that, but must delay the +discussion of the pros and cons until my next. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Attegrat, February 17th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Attegrat, February 17th"/> + +<dateline>Attegrat, February 17th.</dateline> + +<p> +Since I sent my letter off three days ago, nothing has +occurred of any great importance; at the same time there +is scarce a day passes here without some event of more or less +interest taking place. A wing and the head-quarters of the +4th regiment have marched in, and have taken the place of +the 33d regiment. The Beloochees are here, and a portion of +these have already pushed on to improve the road. On the +15th we had quite a sensation in camp. Two elephants arrived, +and 2000 or 3000 of the natives flocked around in a +very few minutes. At first they kept at a prudent distance, +but, emboldened by the sight of the Europeans standing round +and giving the animals pieces of biscuit, they gradually closed +in, and talked in tones of admiration and wonder, showing +<pb n="234"/><anchor id="Pg234"/>all their white teeth, as is their custom. Presently, however, +one of the elephants, not approving of all this hubbub, wheeled +suddenly round, his trunk high in the air, and trumpeting +loudly. An instant scattering of the natives took place, the +crowd flying in all directions as if an infernal-machine had +exploded in their midst. They gradually reassembled, but +never again ventured to get within familiar distance of the +elephants. Yesterday the G-14 battery of Artillery arrived, +and created an admiration among the natives that our mountain +guns had quite failed to arouse. The guns are twelve-pounders, +and have been brought as far as this upon their +wheels, a fact which speaks equally for the practicability of +the road and for the energy and perseverance of its officers +and men. In many places the guns had to leave the road, +and to be hauled up difficulties with tackle and handspikes. +At the descent into this valley, which I described in a former +letter, the road cut along the face of the hill was not +of sufficient width for the wheels, and the guns had to be +lowered down the steep descent into the valley bottom with +tackle. Three hours were occupied in getting the six guns +down. They will probably go no further than Antalo upon +their carriages, but three will be thence taken on upon elephants; +the other three will, at any rate for the present, remain +here. This camp is in process of being turned into an +entrenched position. The lines have been laid out by Major +Pritchard of the Engineers, and the 4th are at present at +work upon them. That regiment moves on to-morrow, but +the next which takes its place in camp will continue the work. +The entrenchments do not include the whole of the present +camp, as the number of men permanently stationed here will, +of course, be much smaller than at present. The lines will +<pb n="235"/><anchor id="Pg235"/>surround the commissariat stores and a portion of the water-pools; +they also run round the summit of a steep shelf of +rocks in the rear of the camp, and which, when thus strengthened, +might be defended by 200 men against 500 similarly +armed and disciplined, and therefore against any number of +Abyssinians whatever. Even now that we have a strong +force here, the people are exceedingly bumptious, and I have +little doubt that there will be some row of greater or less importance +when they see only a small body of troops stationed +here. +</p> + +<p> +Scarcely a day passes that they do not raise their war-cry +about something or other. Some of the squabbles arise about +our cutting grass; others about wood; others about their insisting +upon wandering through the camp; and blows have +been exchanged with fists and sticks upon all these and +several other points. The noble Abyssinian is quite ready to +cut and sell us any quantity of hay, and to charge us an exceedingly-remunerative +price for the same. But although we +have promised, and, indeed, have paid, a round sum for the +privilege, they object strongly to our own men cutting hay, +although it is of no use whatever to themselves. Consequently, +a guard is always obliged to be sent on with the main body of +grass-cutters. Any small parties who may go out in search +of forage nearer to the camp than the regular grass plains are +warned off, and driven back by the natives. There have been +numerous rows on this score, and in some cases the natives +have actually set fire to the grass rather than allow us to cut +it. If they dared they would not allow a blade of grass to be +cut except by themselves. The same questions arise as to +wood. They will bring in large quantities of firewood themselves +for sale, but they very strongly object to our men +col<pb n="236"/><anchor id="Pg236"/>lecting it themselves, although there is not, of course, a shadow +of pretence to say that our collecting dry wood can in any way +damage them. There was a great hullabaloo yesterday on this +subject. Two men had gone out for dry wood, and a priest +and two or three natives came out and ordered them away. +The priest told them that the grove where they were collecting +the wood was sacred, and therefore they must not take +it. The men of course did not understand a word he said, +and expressed their determination to carry off their wood. +He then called upon them as Christians to desist, and the +men, being Hindoos, made some gestures of contempt or +abhorrence at the name of Christians. An attack was then +made upon them; but many of these Syces are remarkably +strong, active fellows, and in a very short time the Abyssinians +found that they had met with much more than their +match. They set up their rallying-cry, and a number more +natives hurried up, and the Hindoos would have got the +worst of it had not another grass-cutter come up with a gun. +The Hindoos then retired, followed by a crowd of enraged +Abyssinians. When they reached the camp the Abyssinians +attempted to follow them in, and blows had to be freely exchanged +before the point of their exclusion was maintained. +The priest alone was admitted, and instead of conducting +himself quietly he ran about shouting and gesticulating until +one of the camp policemen seized him, and, after a struggle, +made him a prisoner. When Sir Robert Napier, who was +out riding, came into camp, he investigated the whole matter; +and, finding that the Syces had been in the wrong by insulting +the religion of the people, he ordered them to have a +dozen lashes each. But here the Abyssinians really showed +themselves to be Christians, for the priest and his witnesses, +<pb n="237"/><anchor id="Pg237"/>all of whom bore marks of having suffered in the skirmish, +knelt down, and said they would not rise unless the culprits +were forgiven, which accordingly they were. This certainly +was a remarkable trait. Here were men who conceived that +themselves and their religion had been insulted, and who had +certainly been well thrashed, really and truly, while their +wounds were still fresh, asking forgiveness for their foes. I +fancy very few European Christians would have done it. It is +pleasant to find a redeeming-point in the character of this +nation of extortioners. It is also to be said for them that +they are a very merry people, and are constantly on a broad +grin. Quarrels among themselves are extremely rare; at +least, I have not heard a single dispute since I arrived in this +country. +</p> + +<p> +The Abyssinians, too, are men with a strong sporting +tendency. They bet freely on the speed of a horse or the +accuracy of their aim. They bet, too, with conditions under +which very few Englishmen would make a wager. They +choose a judge, and the judge, whoever wins, takes the stakes, +the loser of course paying. This system of betting, where one +may lose and cannot win, is, as far as I am aware, without a +precedent, and would do more, if introduced into England, to +put down gambling than all the laws that Parliament could +pass would do in a hundred years. Another thing to be said +for them is that those who know them most like them best, +and a stronger argument in their favour than this could +hardly be used. Still, undoubtedly, they are fond of fighting, +partly perhaps for its own sake, and partly because it would +be manifestly impossible for them to put the whole of the +hard work of the place on the shoulders of the women and +children upon the plea of being warriors, and therefore +privi<pb n="238"/><anchor id="Pg238"/>leged to do nothing, unless they really did do a little fighting +occasionally. +</p> + +<p> +This morning there was another row, which at one time +really threatened to come to fighting. One of the natives +came inside our lines when the men were at work upon the +entrenchments. The policeman—a soldier armed with a +stick—warned him back; but he refused to go. Having +spoken several times, the sentry pushed him. Whereupon +the native drew his sword and rushed upon the soldier, who +met him, however, with a tremendous blow of his stick, which +knocked him backwards into the ditch with a broken head. +The man set up his war-cry, and the natives flocked up, +shouting and brandishing their spears. They refused to retire +when ordered by the officer to do so, and continued to threaten +an attack until Colonel Cameron ordered fifty of his men +to load and fix bayonets, and told the natives that unless they +retired he should order his men to advance. This was sufficient; +and the place was speedily cleared. These little +fracas, although trifling in themselves, sufficiently show that +the natives are an extremely independent race, and are quite +ready for a fight upon the smallest provocation. At present +we are so strong as to render any open attack upon their +part a hopeless proceeding; but when this post is left with +only four or five hundred men I should not be at all surprised +if the natives came to blows with us upon some trifling matter +or other. The three cannon which are to be left here will no +doubt have a salutary effect. The natives are astonished at +them, and say that they are much bigger than those of +Theodore. +</p> + +<p> +Three of the officers of the 4th regiment saw, the other +day, at Fokado, an operation which was described by Bruce, +<pb n="239"/><anchor id="Pg239"/>but which has been denied by all subsequent travellers, and +by the Abyssinians themselves. This was the operation of +cutting a steak from the body of a living ox. They came +upon the natives just as they were in the act of performing +it. The unfortunate bullock was thrown down, and its four +legs were tied together. The operator then cut an incision in +the skin near the spine, just behind the hip-joint. He blew +into this to separate the skin from the flesh, and then cut two +other incisions at right angles to the first, and then lifted a +flap of skin four or five inches square. From this he cut out +a lump of flesh, cutting with the knife under the skin, so that +the amount of flesh taken out was larger than the portion uncovered. +The operator then filled up the hole with cow-dung, +replaced the flap of skin, plastered it up with mud, +untied the feet of the poor animal, which had kept up a low +moaning while the operation was going on, gave it a kick to +make it get up, and the whole thing was over. I should +mention that the operator cut two or three gashes in the +neighbourhood of the wound, apparently as a sign that the +animal had been operated upon in that part. The officers +observed that several of the other cattle of the same herd +were marked in a precisely similar manner. They returned +in half an hour, and found the animal walking about and +feeding quietly. I have not mentioned that it bled very +little at the time the operation was being performed. It certainly +is very singular that, after so many years, Bruce’s +story, which has been always considered as a traveller’s tale, +should have been confirmed. All travellers have denied it. +Mr. Speedy, who was a year among them, tells us that he +never saw or heard of its being done, and that the Abyssinians, +of whom he had inquired respecting the truth of Bruce’s +<pb n="240"/><anchor id="Pg240"/>statement, had always most indignantly denied it, and indeed +had asserted that it would be entirely contrary to their religion, +for that they strictly keep the Mosaic law, to eat no +meat unless the throat of the animal had been cut and the +blood allowed to escape. Anatomists have denied the possibility +of an animal when such an operation had been performed +being able to walk afterwards. Here, however, was +the indisputable fact. The operation was performed, and the +ox did walk afterwards. It is true that it might not have been +done by Abyssinians proper. The party may have been some +wandering tribe belonging to the low country who might have +come up for trading purposes. It is very unfortunate that +neither Mr. Speedy nor any of the interpreters were at hand +to find out the exact tribe to which these savages belonged. +</p> + +<p> +I am unable to give you any reliable account of Major +Grant’s visit to the King of Tigre. He was, I know, hospitably +received, and the horsemen of the King performed +various feats, such as riding in and out between poles, and +cutting at them; but I am unable to say more, as Sir Robert +Napier, no doubt for some good reason of which I am ignorant, +refused to allow us to see Major Grant’s report, or to +have a <hi rend="italic">précis</hi> of it given to us. It is still reported that the +King himself is coming to meet the General, and a place +two days on our march towards Antalo is mentioned as the +appointed place. We even hear that the King has set out +from Adowa for that spot; but I confess that until I see his +sable Majesty I shall not have much faith in his coming. +Still, these very slippery men always do exactly the thing +which one would expect that they would not do; and on this +theory only it is quite possible that Kassa may appear <hi rend="italic">in +propriâ personâ</hi>. If he does come it will no doubt be a very +<pb n="241"/><anchor id="Pg241"/>much more stately affair than the pantomime I described in +my last letter, and I hope that our elephants and cannon will +open his Majesty’s eyes to the fact that we are a people whom +it would be vastly safer to leave alone. +</p> + +<p> +I have been over to-day to the weekly fair at Attegrat. +I was also there last Monday, but had no space to give to its +description in my last letter. A more amusing sight I have +seldom or never seen. Some two or three thousand people +must have been present. The fair or market, as I suppose it +should be called, is held upon a flat rocky slope on the other +side of the village, and this is packed so close that one moves +about among the squatting and standing groups with difficulty. +At one end is the cattle-fair. The number each +grazier brings into market is not large (seldom over two or +three), and there they stand in little quiet groups surrounded +by their master and several of his friends, and submitting to +be felt, pinched, and examined as well as the best-behaved +English cow would do. Here, too, are the donkeys, sturdy +little beasts, not much bigger than a Newfoundland dog, but +which will carry nearly as great a weight as a mule. I +wonder our Transport Corps does not buy a lot of them for +carrying commissariat stores. They will take two bags each, +that is 150 pounds’ weight, and require no saddles, for the +bags are merely laid upon their broad little backs and strapped +there with a few strips of hide; they require no grain, and +very little hay, and cost only five or six dollars. Any number +of them might be purchased. These, like the oxen, stand +very quietly, and appear perfectly indifferent as to any possible +change in their ownership. They not unfrequently have +young ones by their side, little round rough beasts with disproportionately-long +ears and shaggy coats. The goats +ap<pb n="242"/><anchor id="Pg242"/>pear to take matters with less indifference. Their masters +endeavour to keep them in little circles, with their heads +towards the centre; but they are continually trying to escape +from this arrangement, and to make a bolt for it. They +keep up a constant bleating as a protest against the whole +proceeding. Near to them is the grain-market. Here are +men and women with their grain-bags, made of skins of +goats sewn up, and with only an opening at the neck. They +sit about everywhere, while the buyers walk about among +them and inspect the samples with a gravity and intentness +which would do no discredit to Mark-lane. Their purchases +probably will not exceed two or three pounds’ weight, but +they are as careful over the matter as a brewer would be who +was going to make a bid for a ship’s cargo. The grain is +almost entirely barley, and splendid barley too. There are +beside, however, a variety of other grain, of which I do not +know the names. The natives distil a spirit from their barley, +which is said to be something between gin and hollands in +flavour. I have not yet tasted any. Very thick is the throng +round a Parsee belonging to the commissariat, who is buying +up all he can get for Government at a dollar for nineteen +pounds. Near him is another little crowd: here another +commissariat <hi rend="italic">employé</hi> is similarly engaged in buying up ghee—that +is, clarified or boiled butter—for the native troops. It +does not look very nice, and what does not make the sight +the pleasanter is, that the women, when they have emptied +the jars into the commissariat casks, invariably wipe them out +with their hands, and then plaster the remainder upon their +heads. An Abyssinian does not consider himself properly +dressed unless his hair is shining with oil, not put on or +rubbed on, but plastered on, and running down his neck as +<pb n="243"/><anchor id="Pg243"/>the sun melts it. The idea is not, according to our notions, +pleasant, but it is a matter of taste. When an Abyssinian +really wants to make a great effect he uses butter, not ghee, and +puts it on until his head is as white as that of a London footman. +Then he is conscious that he has indeed done it, and walks +with a dignity befitting his appearance. There were several +swells of the period so got up at the market, and as they stood +under the shelter of their straw umbrellas—for the sun would +melt it and destroy the whole effect—I could not but wonder +at and admire the different forms which human vanity takes. +</p> + +<p> +Further on was the cloth mart. Here were women and +men selling the black blankets which almost all women here +wear, in addition to the ornamented skins, which form the +only garments of the Senafe women. These blankets, which +are very large, are worn wrapped round the body, and +secured on one shoulder by a large iron pin. The blankets are +coarse and thin, and have but little warmth. Officers have, +however, bought large numbers for their servants, who feel +the cold at night much. When we are stationary for a few +days the followers construct some sort of tents with gunny-bags +and clothes, but upon the march they have, of course, +to sleep in the open air. Near to the vendors of blankets +for the women are the sellers of the white-cotton cloth for +the men. These are always men; I have seen no women +engaged in selling cloth. I have no doubt they carry it to +the market, but the men take the sale into their own hands. +This is, perhaps, the busiest part of the fair. But beyond +this we come to the largest and by far the most amusing +portion of all. This is the miscellaneous market. Vegetables +and herbs occupy by far the largest share of this. +Here are women and girls with herbs of every sort and +<pb n="244"/><anchor id="Pg244"/>kind, of very few indeed of which I had any previous knowledge. +Here, too, are women with tobacco, very coarse, and +broken up roughly, instead of being cut. The tobacco, of +course, is carried in the skins, which appear to be the receptacles +for everything in this country. Here are men +with salt, in shape and appearance exceedingly like a +mower’s whetstone. These serve as money, and are laid +out upon the ground at so many for a dollar, but if the +salesman sees a European approaching he will abstract a +portion, and demand a dollar for less than half of the number +which should be given for that amount. Here are men +selling the blue string, which all Christians wear round their +neck in token of their faith. Here are men selling the +great iron pins, with a rough attempt at ornament upon +their heads, which all women use to fasten their blankets +upon their shoulders. Here are women with strings of +beads, and pumpkins, and watercresses, and dried herbs, and +chillies, and honey, and garlic, and potatoes, and young +onions for sale. A miscellaneous catalogue, and sold quite +as miscellaneously, for the goods are sold by barter more +than for money, and each vendor will bring in half-a-dozen +small baskets, which she places before her to contain the +various articles which she may receive in exchange. Thus, +for her beads she may get some grain, a few bulbs of garlic, +and a bar or two of salt. Some of these, again, she will +barter for a pumpkin, a chicken, and some dried herbs; and +so the commerce is carried on. Imagine a large number of +these dark-faced, scantily-dressed people, very grave over +their purchases, but very merry, as is their wont, in their +conversation with each other, the men generally walking +about, the women squatting behind their wares, always in +<pb n="245"/><anchor id="Pg245"/>groups, and laughing, chattering, and looking after their +children—strange little potbellied black figures, with half of +their heads shaved, and their sole garment a very small +piece of goatskin on their shoulder. Some of the girls are, +as I have already said, really pretty, with beautiful brown +eyes. They have no objection to be looked at and admired. +They pretend, of course, to be very shy, and half hide their +faces, and look the other way; but really are very amused +and a good deal gratified when a European pauses to look at +them. It is singular how similar is the constitution of the +female mind in savage and in civilised countries. An +English beauty certainly does not betray any consciousness +of being looked at and admired, excepting, of course, if she +be a milkmaid; but she is no doubt equally conscious, and +perhaps just as pleased—except that the sensation is more a +matter of course—as is the dark-eyed and dark-skinned +Abyssinian girl sitting in her scanty leathern garment and +shell-ornamented wrapper in the market at Attegrat. +</p> + +<p> +I do not know when the rainy season begins; indeed, it +is a moot point, authorities varying in their dates from April +to July; but I know we had a thunderstorm here the other +day which nearly washed us out of camp. It began at three +o’clock in the afternoon, and found us quite unprepared, as +we have had so many threatening-looking skies that we had +ceased to believe in rain. However, this time there was no +mistake about it. It came up in a dense black cloud from +behind the mountain beyond Attegrat. The thunder roared, +the lightning was for a while terrific, and for about an hour +a tremendous storm of rain and hail poured down upon us. +Being an old campaigner, one of my first cares upon pitching +my tent had been to have a trench dug round it; but very +<pb n="246"/><anchor id="Pg246"/>many officers, relying upon the fine weather, had neglected +taking this precaution. Knowing what the state of things +would be, immediately the rain ceased I sallied out. The +camp was completely under water. As I have mentioned in +a former letter, it is pitched upon the gradual slope of a hill, +and down this slope a perfect stream of water came nearly +two inches deep. As the rain held up, a few figures might +be observed peering out of their tents to examine the skies, +and as soon as it was quite certain that the rain was over, +the camp, which had five minutes before appeared perfectly +deserted, was like an ant-hill suddenly disturbed. Great was +the devastation the flood had wrought. Through many of the +tents it had swept in a flood two inches deep, soaking everything +placed upon the ground. Here we saw the servants +bringing out a bed, which, having been placed upon the +ground, was drenched with water; here was another party +bringing out hay with which some particular man had carefully +carpeted his tent; here was an officer emptying out his +trunks to see if the things at the bottom had suffered. As I +wandered about I met Major Minion, the principal commissariat-officer +here. He was hastening to the Chief for authority +to issue first-class flour instead of second to the troops, +as a great deal of the first quality had got wetted, and must +be issued at once to prevent its being spoiled. Of course the +native followers and others who had no tents suffered most +of all; and the camp in a short time presented the appearance +of undergoing a general washing-day, so many were the +garments hung out to dry. Of course, in accordance with +the old proverb of shutting the door after the horse was +stolen, there was at once a great demand for picks and +shovels, and everyone who had not already done so set to +<pb n="247"/><anchor id="Pg247"/>work at digging a trench round their tents. The night after +the storm was much less cold than the preceding one had +been, and the whole country looks fresher and brighter for +the washing. And now as to our most absorbing topic, the +advance. It takes place positively to-morrow. Sir Robert Napier +himself goes on, and is accompanied by the Artillery, 3d +Native Cavalry, five companies of the 4th King’s Own, and the +remaining three companies of the 10th Native Infantry. The +Beloochees were also to have gone forward, but there is not +sufficient transport, and they will follow in a day or two. +The little party of Engineers also go forward with the photographic +and signalling apparatus. The two elephants will +also form part of the train. The march hence to Antalo is +eight days’ journey, which are divided as follows: Mai Wahiz, +13 miles; Ad Abaga, 15; Dongolo, 12; Agula, 14; Dowlo, +19; Haig Kullat, 9; Afzool, 9; Antalo, 5: total, 96 miles. +Colonel Phayre, who has again gone ahead, reports that the +road presents no great difficulties; but it does not appear as +if the first day’s march were by any means an easy business, +for the baggage-guard of the 33d regiment, which left here +at nine o’clock in the morning, did not arrive at its destination +until six o’clock on the following morning. The Commander-in-chief +rode out next day, and found the road really +impracticable at two or three places. He was exceedingly +angry that the corps which has gone ahead nominally to +make this road should have left it in such a state. A party +of the Beloochees were at once set on, and it is to be hoped +that by to-morrow they will have made it passable. The +party of Bombay Sappers and Miners, who have done such +good work in the pass, have gone on to-day, with instructions +to keep a day’s march ahead of the Chief. They will improve, +<pb n="248"/><anchor id="Pg248"/>as far as they can, any very difficult places; but as they will +have to progress as fast as the troops, they will of course be +able to do very little. The last two days’ march even Colonel +Phayre reports to be exceedingly difficult, as, instead of the +flat sheets of sandstone over which much of the preceding +day’s journey passes, we here have to cross sheets of bare +limestone, upon which horses can stand with difficulty. He +states that it will be necessary to strew soil or sand upon +the rocks to make them at all passable. It is evident, therefore, +that we shall have some serious difficulties to encounter +even between this and Antalo; still, we may expect to be at +that town by the end of the month. From thence to Magdala +it is 160 miles, or thereabouts; for it is impossible to reckon +within twenty miles in a country where the mountains and +gorges necessitate such constant windings. I mentioned in +my last letter that bets were freely offered and taken that +we arrive at Magdala by the 15th of April. The whole question +is one of provision and transport; and the most casual +examination of the question will show that it will be a very +long time before the provision for the onward march can be +collected at Antalo. I related in my letters a month since +how hard a task it was to feed the troops at Senafe and along +the pass, and to accumulate provisions in our advance to +Attegrat. Senafe is only five days’ march from Zulla; +Antalo is sixteen; and, allowing for the mules to stop one +day at Senafe, and one at Attegrat, to rest, which would +be absolutely necessary, it is eighteen days from Zulla. We +shall have twice as many troops to feed at Antalo as we had +at Senafe; and as it is three times as long a journey, it will +require six times as many transport-animals to feed the troops +at Antalo now to what were required to feed the former force +<pb n="249"/><anchor id="Pg249"/>at Senafe. In addition to this, we shall have a body of +troops at Attegrat, and another at Senafe, to feed. The +Transport Train is more efficient now than it was a month +since, but it is not greatly more numerous, as the number +of fresh arrivals is almost balanced by the number of mules +going daily into hospital, broken down with over-work, bad +feeding, and sore backs brought on by the pack-saddles. +The fact of the road being now practicable for carts to Senafe, +is also an assistance to the Transport Train; but I confess that +I cannot see how they will manage to provision all the line, +much less to accumulate stores. It is, we have just seen, +eighteen days from Zulla to Antalo. Supposing that the +mules go regularly up and down, stopping two days at +each end to rest, it will take them forty days to make the +circuit. Putting the number of available transport-animals +at 16,000, which is over the mark, there would be only four +hundred a-day to start from the sea-coast. When it is remembered +that these four hundred animals would have to +carry their own food for those places at which grain cannot +be obtained, that they have to carry the rations for their +drivers for the forty days, that they have to provision the +different minor posts, together with Senafe and Attegrat, +it will be seen that the quantity of provisions which will +reach Antalo daily will be by no means excessive. And yet, +before we can move forward from Antalo, on a journey which, +going and returning, and with a pause of a week at Magdala, +can hardly be calculated as under two months, we must have +accumulated there a sufficient amount of provisions for the +whole time we may be absent; and this not only for the +troops and animals who go, but for the force which will +remain there during our absence. We must also have a +<pb n="250"/><anchor id="Pg250"/>supply accumulated at the posts along the road, as we shall +take so large a portion of the transport-animals in our further +advance, that we must be sure that a stock has accumulated +sufficient to last some time. I hear that the number of mules +which will go forward with us from Antalo will be about +6000, with two months’ provisions for the column and a certain +amount for themselves. Following out the calculation +I have made, we prove mathematically that we never can +accumulate this 6000 mule-loads at Antalo. Mathematical +proofs, fortunately, occasionally are falsified by facts. It was +mathematically proved that no steamer could ever cross the +Atlantic. The feat was, however, somehow accomplished; +and I have no doubt but that, in the teeth of mathematics, +we shall somehow or other accumulate provisions at Antalo, +and shall march on to Magdala; but it must be some time +first. I think the 1st of May to be the very earliest date at +which we can hope to leave Antalo. Of course much will +depend upon the fruitfulness of the country in the immediate +vicinity of that town. If we can only obtain sufficient grain +to feed our animals, and to lay in a store of provender for +them for the advance, it will greatly lessen our difficulties. +As far as we have already come, such has not been the case. +Even the extreme prices we have given have barely purchased +sufficient grain for the daily supply, and animals upon +the route have to be fed upon grain brought from Bombay. +Still, we must hope for better things. The date of our advance +depends almost entirely upon the state of the grain-market +at Antalo. We start to-morrow morning at half-past six, and +that means that we must be up and moving before five. I +must therefore close this letter, but shall write again in time +to save the post from Ad Abaga, where I believe we shall +halt for a day. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> + </div><div> +<pb n="251"/><anchor id="Pg251"/> +<index index="toc" level1="Ad Abaga, Feb. 20th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Ad Abaga, Feb. 20th"/> + +<dateline>Ad Abaga, Feb. 20th.</dateline> + +<p> +I cannot say that starting a convoy of baggage-mules off +at half-past six in the morning is a pleasant operation. The +order was <q>that all animals not off by half-past six must wait +until after the departure of the column at seven;</q> that is, +allowing for delays, that they would not be able to start +until eight. I acceded to the suggestion of my travelling-companion +that we should get our mules off early. At five +we were up, completed our packing, had a cup of chocolate +and a speedy wash, and then struck our tent, which was +wet through with the heavy dew. Folding this up and +getting it into a sack meant to contain it only when dry, was +a long operation, trying to the temper and very destructive +to the finger-nails. However, it and all our final preparations, +including the loading the animals, were completed in +time, and we were fairly <hi rend="italic">en route</hi> at twenty minutes past +six. We have long since come to the conclusion that the +only way to get our baggage along is to be our own baggage-guard, +and one or other of us, generally both, accompany +it the whole distance. In this way we got into camp in +the afternoon, from an hour and a half to two hours earlier +than if we had trusted it only to the servants and drivers, +and had we ridden on at our own pace we should only have +had to wait doing nothing, and without a shelter, for three or +four hours. On the present occasion my friend started with +the baggage and I remained behind to see the column start. +It was a pretty sight, and must have astonished the natives +not a little. First came the 3d Native Cavalry, about +three hundred strong, in their soldierly blue-and-silver +uni<pb n="252"/><anchor id="Pg252"/>forms. This regiment has had no easy time of it since their +arrival at Attegrat, for we are exceedingly short of cavalry, +and since the Scinde Horse went on, the 3d have had to +furnish all the guards and escorts. For some days they had +only eighteen men left in camp. I hear that two hundred +horses have arrived at Zulla as remounts in the place of those +they have lost by the disease. The strength of the regiment +will then be raised to its original number of nearly five +hundred sabres. I mentioned in a letter, some time since, +that this regiment had been looked upon with some disfavour +by the authorities for having started from Bombay without +the baggage-animals with which, according to the terms of +their agreement, they should have furnished themselves. +This fault they have done their best to remedy by purchasing +every mule they could get. They have now nearly made up +their number, and upon the present march only had to draw +thirty-five transport-animals, which they hope in a few days +to be able to dispense with. Next to the 3d Native Cavalry +came the Artillery, who had, at the last moment, received +orders to take four guns instead of three. The guns were +all drawn by eight horses. The greater part of the horses of +this battery are very light grays, and two of the guns are +horsed entirely by grays. They are in admirable condition, +and look exceedingly well. Next followed the little party +of Engineers. Behind them came the 4th King’s Own, in +their light-brown, or rather dust-coloured suits, with their +band playing the <q>Red, White, and Blue.</q> Colonel Cameron +sets an excellent example to his men and officers by having +his horse led, and by always marching at their head. The +line was closed by the 10th Native Infantry, their band playing +<q>Nelly Bligh.</q> After the troops came the head of a long +<pb n="253"/><anchor id="Pg253"/>line of baggage-animals. Having seen the column pass, I +rode on and rejoined my baggage. +</p> + +<p> +The road, as usual, leads over the plateau, with occasional +steep ascents and descents. Two of these ascents turned out +quite impracticable for artillery, and the road as made reflects +great discredit upon those who went on in command of +the pioneer force to make the way. The roads are made with +short, sharp zigzags, where it is impossible for the horses to +draw. Had not the artillery been accompanied by a strong +force of infantry it would have been impossible to have got +the guns up. As it was, the guns were pulled up the straight +places by the horses aided by the men, and then the horses +were taken out, the guns unlimbered, and the gun was +dragged up first, round the curve, by the infantry with ropes, +and the limbers were taken up afterwards. The work of +getting the guns up one of these ascents occupied over two +hours. Sir R. Napier is naturally extremely angry, as, had +he not been informed by the officer in advance that the road +was perfectly practicable, he would of course have sent on a +strong working-party some days previously. I reached Mai +Wahiz at half-past twelve, the 3d Cavalry having got in +half-an-hour before me. In the afternoon we had another +severe thunderstorm, with heavy rain, which fortunately only +lasted about half-an-hour. Our camp at Mai Wahiz, instead +of being, as usual, on a plain, or rather a slight rise near the +plain, was placed upon a hill. I hear that in future we are +always to encamp on a hill, or at any rate, as far as possible, +in a defensible position. This shows that our Chief places +exceedingly little faith in any protestations the Tigre king +may make, and that he thinks that, even if he does come in +to the durbar at this place, yet that he is not to be trusted +<pb n="254"/><anchor id="Pg254"/>out of sight. Everything at Mai Wahiz is very scarce, and +forage dearer than ever. I had to pay two dollars for about +eighteen pounds of barley for my baggage-animals, that is, +just sixpence a pound. Hay is equally dear. The commissariat +served out no hay to the transport-animals, and +all that they had after a hard day’s work, with the prospect +of another equally hard on the morrow, was three pounds of +grain each. +</p> + +<p> +From the foot of the hill we rode for some distance along +a wide valley, with water in several places, and a good deal +of cultivated ground. Then, after three or four miles of +undulating plain we arrived at our camping-ground at a +little after three o’clock. The natives here must be either +a more warlike people than those whose villages we have +passed since entering the country, or they must have much +more warlike neighbours. For the villages are almost always +surrounded by strong walls, and one or two were perched +on eminences, and defended by walls and towers. One very +curious castle we passed strongly resembling the old baronial +castles one meets with in southern Scotland and the north +of England. This was situated upon the edge of a precipice, +and the rocks went sheer down from three sides of its walls +for fifty or sixty feet. It must be impregnable in a country +like this, where cannon are all but unknown. Another fort, +which certainly looked of European construction, and if not +must unquestionably have been built from a picture of a +European fort, was perched upon the top of the mountain +near where we descended into the valley. The precipice at +its foot was at least a thousand feet down, but curiously +enough the fort was in a sort of hollow, higher rocks at the +distance of only a hundred yards on either side commanding +<pb n="255"/><anchor id="Pg255"/>it. If a European designed it, he certainly did not choose +its position. It was a round fort, of perhaps fifty feet high, +but it was difficult to judge its height from our position on +the plain so much below it. Its diameter was about equal to +its height. It had regular lines of loopholes, and appeared to +have been built by some robber-chief to enable him to swoop +down upon the caravans of traders journeying up and down +the road we had just come. This camp is at about the same +elevation as that at Mai Wahiz, and the climate is even more +charming than that of Attegrat, for the heat is less during +the day, and the cold last night was not at all equal to that +which we experienced there. The <hi rend="italic">on dit</hi> is that the King +cannot arrive to-day, but will come to-morrow, and that we +shall move out early and pitch our camp upon a plain six miles +from here, and there receive him properly. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Dongolo, Feb. 26th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Dongolo, Feb. 26th"/> + +<dateline>Dongolo, Feb. 26th.</dateline> + +<p> +The King of Tigre has turned out to be a living entity +and not a mythical being, as we had begun to consider him. +He was to have paid us a visit at Attegrat, but he sent us an +ambassador in his place, and no one thought that we should +ever hear any more of the King. However, he sent to say +that he would meet us upon a plain near Ad Abaga, and we +journeyed there, rather incredulous but still hopeful. The +King was to have been at the appointed spot upon the day +after we had reached Ad Abaga; but messengers sent out +brought news that, although it was currently reported that +he had started from Adowa, he had certainly not arrived +anywhere in the neighbourhood. As it was most important +that we should see the King, and remain upon friendly terms +<pb n="256"/><anchor id="Pg256"/>with him, and as it was certain that if he had started to meet +us, and found that we had gone on without stopping to see +him, he would feel grievously affronted, the Commander-in-chief +determined to wait. Fortunately, any delay we might +experience could be of no importance to us, as it will be impossible +to move forward from Antalo until a large stock of +provisions are accumulated there, and whether we waited a +week at Ad Abaga or at Antalo was perfectly immaterial. Wait +accordingly we did for three days, before any reliable news +reached us. At last we heard for certain, as we believed, +that the King was at Hanzein, twelve miles off. This was on +Saturday, and the messenger said that of course the King +would not move on Sunday, but that he would come in on +Monday morning to Mai Dehar, the appointed meeting-place. +</p> + +<p> +On Sunday Major Grant, Captain Moore, and Mr. Speedy +set out to meet the King, and accompany him to the meeting-place. +They rode out to Hanzein, and found a considerable +body of armed men there, and some of the princes. They +were told that the King was five miles further on, and five +good miles they rode, and, again inquiring for his Majesty’s +whereabouts, found that the miles must have been Irish ones, +for that the King was still five miles further on. They decided +to return, and at Hanzein had another interview with +the men in authority there. These worthies tried very hard +to induce them to concede, on the part of Sir Robert Napier, +that he would come as far as Hanzein to meet the King. +Their object in this was, of course, to enhance the dignity of +the King in the eyes of his own people, by making us come +as far out of our way as possible to meet him; Major Grant, +however, altogether refused to concede this point. He stated +<pb n="257"/><anchor id="Pg257"/>that we had already waited four days, and that unless the +King moved forward at once, Sir Robert Napier would proceed +upon his journey without seeing him. Major Grant +then started with Major Pritchard of the Engineers, who had +gone out to Hanzein with Lieutenant Morgan and his party +of signallers, to return to camp. As it was dark when they +started, they of course lost their way, and wandered about +for some hours, leading their horses, which had two or three +awkward falls. They arrived in camp at two o’clock in the +morning. They did not pass any of the signallers’ posts on +their way, and consequently Lieutenant Morgan and his men +remained up all night, to flash the news across the hills of +the hour of the King’s starting from Hanzein. Captain +Moore and Mr. Speedy remained at Hanzein until the next +day, and were hospitably, if not agreeably, entertained, with +a repast, consisting of a large dish of half-baked bread, over +which melted fat had been poured with a liberal hand. While +they were occupied in endeavouring to find a morsel less +saturated with fat than the rest, two or three of the chiefs +showed them how the food should be eaten, by thrusting some +exceedingly dirty hands into the mess, rolling up a large ball, +and cramming it into their mouths. Captain Moore underwent +a strong internal struggle, but conquered his desire to +rush into the open air, and nobly shut his eyes and followed +the example. Mr. Speedy—whose residence in Abyssinia has +rendered him the reverse of dainty in matters of food—had +already set-to with the grave complacency of a man who +enjoys his repast. +</p> + +<p> +On Monday a messenger came in who reported that the +King had really arrived at Hanzein, and would come on to +Mai Dehar early next morning. A native in our pay having +<pb n="258"/><anchor id="Pg258"/>verified this report, orders were issued for a move at daylight +the next morning. The party was to consist of the four guns +of Murray’s battery, a squadron of 3d Native Cavalry, four +companies of the 4th Regiment, one company of the 10th +Native Infantry, the party of Engineers with their signalling +and photographing apparatus, and two elephants. Although +Mai Dehar was only five miles off, the troops were ordered to +take their tents and baggage, as it was uncertain at what hour +the proceedings might be over; and as the next march on to +this place was only ten miles, they would be able to march +straight through the next day, and would therefore lose no +time by sleeping at Mai Dehar. +</p> + +<p> +By seven o’clock we were all out of Ad Abaga, and by +half-past nine the tents were pitched at Mai Dehar, which +was not more than a four-mile march distant. Mai Dehar +is a basin of about half a mile in diameter, with gradually-sloping +sides, and possesses no picturesque effect whatever. +A small stream runs through it, and the whole basin is covered +with a long thick growth of hay. Orders were at once +issued that no fires should be lighted or pipes allowed until +the grass was all cut in the immediate vicinity of the tents, +and for some little distance round the horses. This, of course, +was a work which occupied some time; and at about eleven, +before the fires were fairly alight, Mr. Speedy, who had gone +straight on to meet the King, rode into camp with news that +he had left him half an hour before, and that in a very few +minutes he would arrive. In ten minutes a dark mass of +figures showed upon the crest of the opposite rise of the +valley, and presently a tent of bright scarlet colour rose in +their midst, and showed that the King was present among +them. Mr. Speedy again rode off to say that the +Commander-<pb n="259"/><anchor id="Pg259"/>in-chief would move forward to meet him in an hour. By +that time the men had breakfasted, and at half-past twelve, +when the bugle sounded the assembly, all were ready for any +work they might be called on to do. They were formed in line +a few hundred yards behind the tent, which had been pitched +near the little stream for the durbar. Major Grant, Captain +Moore, and Mr. Speedy now rode forward again towards the +King’s tent, accompanied by an escort of 3d Native Cavalry. +Several officers who were not on duty, but who had come +over on leave from the camp at Ad Abaga, also rode upon +the flank of the cavalry, and among them I took my place. +</p> + +<p> +The native army was ranged in line on both sides of the +royal tent; they were not formed in any regular order, but +stood thickly together, with the extremities of their line advanced +in the form of the crescent of a young moon. There +was no pressing or noise; all stood perfectly quiet as we advanced, +and it was evident at once that we were in the presence +of a greatly more formidable body of men than we had +given Abyssinia credit for possessing. The only sound that +broke the silence was the beating of a number of drums. These +I afterwards had an opportunity of examining, and found them +to be of the same shape, and as nearly as possible the same size, +as our own kettledrums. Instead of being of metal, they were +of thin wood, and were covered with skins with the hair on in +the place of parchment. They were carried one on each side +of a mule. There were six mules so laden, and the drums +were beaten, some with small sticks, some with large and +heavy ones. These last served as big drums, and kept time +to the constant beating of the small ones. They played a sort +of tune which, if rather monotonous, was by no means unmusical. +The principal drummer had a red umbrella held +<pb n="260"/><anchor id="Pg260"/>over his head—a distinction enjoyed by no other person +except his Majesty himself. When we had arrived within +forty or fifty yards of the King’s tent we halted. Major +Grant and his party alighted from their horses and entered +the royal tent, and the cavalry were drawn up in line parallel +to the road the King would pass down on his way to the +stream. Major Grant’s mission was to inform the King that +Sir Robert Napier was ready, and would advance to meet +him as soon as he saw the King had left his tent. Some +personages in authority now gave some orders, and a body +of four or five hundred men took their places a short distance +in front of the royal tent. Some of these men were on foot, +some mounted; the great majority were armed with guns of +some kind, and in addition carried shield and sword. The +remainder had lances. There was a far greater variety of +costume, and much more brilliancy of colour, among their +body than we had any notion of seeing in Abyssinia. The +majority, of course, had the whitey-brown cotton cloth of the +country, with generally the red ends and fur tippets with +long ends which are distinctive of a warrior of rank. Many, +too, had a lion’s mane over their shoulders, which is a sign +that they have slain many enemies in battle. Very many +too had on long shirts of state, reaching to the knees, and +made of richly-brocaded silks, generally green, blue, or +red, with yellow flowers. Some, the greatest dandies of all, +wore mantles of velvet, violet being the prevailing colour. +These reached a little below the waist, and were then cut +into long tails of peculiar pattern, which, moreover, was +always similar. These, who gave orders, and who were +probably generals, were not bareheaded, as were all the rest +of the Abyssinians, but had a coloured silk-handkerchief over +<pb n="261"/><anchor id="Pg261"/>and around the head, Bedouin fashion, and falling down upon +the neck, with a sort of fillet or coronet of metal, which +looked like tin, but may have been silver, round their foreheads. +Of this body, which was evidently composed of chiefs +and warriors of distinction, about equal numbers were mounted +and on foot. Very many of the mules carried double, which +is here considered by no means an <hi rend="italic">infra-dig.</hi> method of travelling. +In front of this body of men the band of drums took +up their station, and in the rear five or six men blowing an +instrument somewhat resembling a clarionet in appearance, +except that it has only one note. Some of them were, however, +pitched a tone above the others, so that the general +result, although not so musical as that of the drums, was +yet not discordant. +</p> + +<p> +The King now came out of his tent, and mounted a mule. +A dozen or so princes and personal attendants rode or walked +near him, and two attendants walked one on each side, leaning +against the mule, and supporting him, as it were, in his +saddle. One held a large Magenta-silk umbrella over the +King’s head. Kassa is a man of seven or eight and twenty. +He was plainly dressed in a swathing of native cloth, the +only distinction between himself and an ordinary warrior +being that, in place of a broad scarlet end, it had a sort +of Cashmere pattern. The princes had similar borders to +their robes. The King wore a fur tippet, and the cloth was +wrapped round and round him, so that his arms were not +visible, and he looked a mere bunch as he sat upon his mule. +The cloth was brought up round his chin and mouth. He +was bareheaded; his hair was plaited in lines from the forehead +to the back of the head, in the peculiar manner I have +before described, and which exactly resembles that upon some +<pb n="262"/><anchor id="Pg262"/>of the Assyrian wall-paintings in the British Museum. These +plaits are each tied at the end, and form a little bunch of tails +at the back of the neck. Kassa has a mild and rather irresolute +face, and was evidently nervous at the unaccustomed +ceremony he was about to go through. I believe that his +face does not belie his character, and that he is quite guided +by three or four of his principal advisers. Puppet kings are +not confined to Abyssinia. Major Grant rode by the side +of the King, and conversed with him through the medium +of Mercher, the interpreter. The mule ridden by the King, +and those of the principal personages, all had the gay green-and-red +embossed leather trappings I described as adorning +the mule ridden by the ambassador who came in to Attegrat. +There were several priests in the train, distinguished as usual +by their turbans and the whiteness of their robes. In my +description of the King’s dress I have said nothing of his +leggings or shoes, for the reason that he, as well as everyone +of his nation, had bare legs and feet. Immediately the +King had started, I closed-in with the unattached officers +behind him, and the 3d Native Cavalry came on behind us. +In the rear of them, and keeping a perfect line, came the +main body of native troops—horsemen in front, footmen behind +them. The whole effect was extremely picturesque, and, +as seen from the opposite side of the valley, must have been +most striking. As soon as we were in motion, we saw Sir +Robert Napier approaching from the opposite camp. He +rode in a howdah upon an elephant with scarlet trappings; +behind followed the other elephant, and his staff rode around +him. The troops remained in a line at some little distance +in rear of the durbar tent, the 10th Native Infantry being +drawn up as a guard of honour in front of the tent. When +<pb n="263"/><anchor id="Pg263"/>we were about three-quarters of the distance down the slope +upon our side of the hill, the body-guard in front of the King +halted, and fell back upon each side, leaving a road, through +which the King and his personal following rode. The 3d +Native Cavalry followed, but the natives formed line again +in the rear and halted. Sir Robert Napier arrived first at +the stream, but the elephant refused to cross, and the General +then alighted and mounted his horse, and again advanced to +meet the King, who had by this time crossed the stream. +Sir Robert and the King shook hands, and then rode together +to the durbar tent. There everyone dismounted, and +as many as the tent would accommodate entered. I was +fortunate enough to be one of these. The King and the +Commander-in-chief took seats in two chairs. Five of the +principal princes sat upon the ground. The King’s shield-and-spear-bearer +stood behind him, and several other native +attendants stood near. About a dozen European officers +ranged themselves round the sides of the tent. At the moment +of entering the tent, the guard of honour and the +artillery fired a salute, which caused a great commotion +among the horses, and I have no doubt rather startled and +alarmed the King of Tigre’s army, which had all remained +upon the other side of the stream. Throughout the day the +greatest discipline prevailed upon this point, not a single +man crossing the stream, with the exception only of the +King’s personal attendants. +</p> + +<p> +The conversation between Sir Robert Napier and the King +was interpreted by Mercher and by his brother, who formed +part of the King’s retinue. Both these brothers are Tigre +chiefs, who were curiously enough sent to Bombay to be educated, +and to learn the English language. The conversation +<pb n="264"/><anchor id="Pg264"/>was of the most formal kind. Sir Robert expressed his hope +that the King was not fatigued with his journey. The King +replied that he was never tired when he came to see his friends. +Here the conversation languished a little, and then Sir Robert +expressed the pleasure that we English, who sent missionaries +to all parts of the world, experienced at finding a Christian +nation here in the midst of Africa. To this the King replied, +that he did not wish to see strangers in his country, but that +if strangers came he preferred that they should be Christians. +This was a decided damper; but Sir Robert, after a pause, +rallied nobly, and said that we had a most friendly feeling for +all the Abyssinians, with the exception only of the bad men +who held our countrymen captive. The King replied that +Theodore was our common enemy, and that he hoped we +should punish him as he deserved. The General then inquired +the names of the princes present, and found that one +was an elder brother, and two were uncles of the King. These +were all intelligent-looking men, with fine faces for Abyssinians. +The King’s elder brother is a much more resolute +and determined-looking man than the King. These men, +as well as the King, we could now see, upon their sitting +down and getting their arms a little free from the wrappings +of cloth, had very large golden armlets, or rather wrist-ornaments, +of exactly the same shape as a lady’s gauntlet. Sir +Robert now said that he wished to present the King with some +presents, to demonstrate our friendship. These were a double-barrelled +rifle by Purday, some handsome Bohemian glass +vases, and the horse upon which he himself rode when he met +the King. By the way, I question much if the King will +ever trust himself upon the horse, which is a high-spirited +and rather restive animal, and which upon our leaving the +<pb n="265"/><anchor id="Pg265"/>tent completely overpowered the native to whom it had been +delivered, and had finally to be taken up to the royal tent by +its own syce. The meeting now was over, that is, it was over +as a public meeting, and all retired from the tent except two +or three confidential officers on either side. What had preceded +was merely a formal opening, and the interview was +now really interesting. I am, of course, unable to give the +details, but the general substance was that the King now entirely +threw aside his reserve, and said that he hoped for our +support in the disputes which will arise upon Theodore’s defeat. +Sir Robert Napier <q>assured the King of our friendship, +but stated that his Queen had sent him here solely with +the design of rescuing our countrymen, but that she had +given him strict orders on no account to take any part in the +unfortunate dissensions which were taking place in the country. +We have, as we marched onward to this place, seen +everywhere the signs of these unfortunate wars, in the fields +lying uncultivated, and in the deserted villages, and he hoped +to hear that with the destruction of the power of Theodore, +this most unfortunate state of things would cease. At the +same time he assured the King that he might rely that if we +could give him no support we should also abstain from giving +any assistance whatever to his rivals.</q> Kassa afterwards, in +answer to a request of the Chief, promised that he would send +messengers to the principal towns upon our route, ordering +the inhabitants to do all in their power to furnish us with +provisions and supplies. After the interview was over, the +King and princes were supplied with wine and spirits, not, +however, without some difficulty, for there are very few +bottles of wine remaining in the camp of the advancing +column. There was then a pause of an hour or two, after +<pb n="266"/><anchor id="Pg266"/>which our troops were paraded, and went through a few manœuvres +before the King. These were not of much interest, +as no powder was expended, and the ground, being full of +deep holes, hidden by long grass, was most unfavourable for +the movements of either artillery or cavalry. The action of +the Armstrongs was also explained to the King. After this +the troops returned to camp, and Sir Robert Napier and his +staff crossed the stream with the King to pay a return visit to +the royal tent. The natives, who had been clustered by the +stream, all rose at his approach, and the drums struck up their +strange music. We were now enabled, riding as we were +among a dense throng of natives, to judge more accurately of +their number and appearance than we had hitherto been +able to do. The general opinion was, that there must have +been about three thousand, three-quarters of whom were +armed with guns. They were a fine, active-looking set of +men, and in a rough country would make formidable antagonists +even for trained soldiers. These men are known to be +brave, and are fairly armed, but Theodore’s army has always +defeated them. Theodore’s army must, therefore, have been +by no means despicable antagonists; and although that army +has now dwindled to four or five thousand men, it is probable +that that four or five thousand are the most desperate characters +and the most warlike warriors of his original force. +Strong as Magdala naturally is, and garrisoned by a few thousand +such men as these, it may possibly be a hard nut even +for a British army to crack. +</p> + +<p> +Arrived at the King’s tent, which is of considerable +size, Sir Robert Napier entered with the King, princes, and +as many of his staff as the tent would accommodate, and +took seats upon the carpeted ground. Here refreshments, +<pb n="267"/><anchor id="Pg267"/>small flat bread, and native liquors of fermented honey and +herbs, and native spirits, were served round. Sir Robert +Napier was declared by the King to be a good warrior, and +the King presented him with his own lion-mane tippet, his +own sword, shield, and spear, the mule he had himself ridden +at the interview, with its saddle and trappings, and a silver +gauntlet. After about half an hour the Commander-in-chief +took his leave. +</p> + +<p> +As I rode up towards the tent I was smoking a cigar, and +this attracted the greatest attention and astonishment from +the natives who were crowding round. It was evident they +had never seen a cigar before. I gave away several to the +chiefs, who, however, were quite in the dark as to what to do +with them when they had got them. I offered them my cigar +to light those I had given them from; but they had no idea +what to do with it, and were on the point of putting it into +one of their mouths, when I rescued it, and struck a light with +a vesuvian. This astonished them even more than the cigar. +However, they lit their cigars, and smoked them with manifest +content, occasionally lending them to their friends for a +whiff. Numbers of applications then poured in upon me, +which, however, I was obliged to refuse, for cigars are very +precious articles here. I left when Sir Robert Napier did, +as it was nearly six o’clock, and I wished to get back to Ad +Abaga, where I had left my tent and baggage, before it became +too dark to follow the track. +</p> + +<p> +The opinion of the King and his principal warriors respecting +our troops is similar to that expressed by the natives at the +review at Attegrat, namely, that our troops would be invincible +upon a plain, but that they would have no fear of us +upon a mountain side. Our cannon are not so large as they +<pb n="268"/><anchor id="Pg268"/>had expected to see; but they said that they had heard great +things of our rockets, which rush through the air with a tremendous +noise, and destroy those who are not killed by their +explosion by a noxious vapour which is fatal to man and beast. +They are thoroughly convinced that we have great power of +enchantment; and this will probably do more to retain their +neutrality than any fear of our arms would do. They say that +by enchantment we have tamed the elephants; by enchantment +we have kept the rain from falling near the sea-coast, +and interrupting our work in the pass; by enchantment we +have made the locusts disappear the moment we came up on +to the high country; and therefore that were we offended, we +should by enchantment also prevent rain from falling over +the whole country, and thus create a dreadful famine in the +land. +</p> + +<p> +As the natives are impressed by enchantment, and are not +at all impressed by our soldiers, I should propose that in any +future war of the same kind there should be an officer appointed +under the title of magician to the forces, and that he +should have subordinate officers as assistant magicians and +deputy-assistant magicians. The duty of these officers should +be to exhibit signs and wonders. Mr. Anderson might perhaps +be induced to undertake the control of the machine +tricks and general magic; Mr. Home would do the spiritual +business, and could astonish the native mind with the sight +of elephants floating in the air, or could terrify a negro potentate +by tweaking his nose at a durbar by invisible fingers. +One of the deputy-assistant magicians should be a pyrotechnist, +whose duty would be to light up the camp with unearthly +fire, and to place strange portents in the midnight sky. Certainly, +had this department been organised before the +expe<pb n="269"/><anchor id="Pg269"/>dition began, and had a few of its officers been present, we +might have dispensed with several regiments, and the cost of +the expedition would have been greatly lessened, however +munificent the remuneration of the chiefs of the department +might have been. Should Government adopt this suggestion, +and I have no doubt they will do so, I shall expect a valuable +appointment in the corps. +</p> + +<p> +On the day after the last mail left we were favoured with +a <hi rend="italic">précis</hi> of the letters from Magdala which had arrived three +days previously. They contained nothing of any great importance. +Gobayze and Menelek were both near King Theodore; +so near, indeed, that the camp-fires of the former could +be seen from Theodore’s camp. They were both evidently +afraid to attack him; but Gobayze had sent him an insulting +message, and Theodore had at once put the unfortunate +herald to death. Theodore was making very slow progress; +and it was thought that he would not arrive until the end of +March at Magdala. He was ten hours’ ride from that fortress, +which would mean about twenty-five miles. Even if he +travels at half the reported rate of speed, he will be there +before us. The opinion is general now that we shall have a +fight at the end of our journey. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Doullo, February 29"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Doullo, February 29"/> + +<dateline>Doullo, February 29.</dateline> + +<p> +We arrived here yesterday afternoon, after three days’ +marching. On the 26th the troops went from Mai Dehar to +Dongollo, fifteen miles; on the 27th to Agula, nine miles; and +on the 28th to Doullo, fifteen miles. The road has lain across +a much more undulating country than that over which we +have previously passed. On the first day’s march we had one +<pb n="270"/><anchor id="Pg270"/>very long and steep descent. This tried the mules; and many +were the upsets of packs, many the tired animals who lay +down, and refused to move until unsaddled, upon the narrow +ledge. Fortunately, however, although long and steep, it was +straight, and so the artillery got down with comparative ease +and without any accident. The camp was in a valley, where +the water was very good, and where there was one pool of +deep water nearly 200 yards long, which afforded excellent +bathing. There were a good many fish in it, and several +were caught of over a pound in weight. This is curious, +as it shows that the Abyssinians are by no means skilful +fishermen; for Mr. Speedy tells me that during his residence +in the country he never saw nor heard of a fish more +than three inches long being caught. +</p> + +<p> +The next day’s march was a short and rather easy one. +The last was not only long, but it had some very long and +difficult ascents and descents; indeed, it was one succession +of hills for the whole distance. The country has throughout +been thinly populated. We have come across several ruined +villages, which have probably been destroyed in the constant +wars which are raging in this country. The churches, +however, have generally been respected; and whenever a +really fine clump of trees is to be seen, there is always a +church to be found in their shade. Where the villages have +been destroyed, the churches are of course deserted, and are +more or less falling into ruins. This camp is pitched in a +wide valley, and we are procuring more supplies than usual +from the natives. Yesterday we bought 1500lb. of grain, +and to-day we are obtaining an even larger supply. Grass, +however, is comparatively scarce, and the water is by no +means good. Cattle, as usual, are in abundance. We are +<pb n="271"/><anchor id="Pg271"/>going on again to-morrow, and shall reach the camp beyond +Antalo in two days. I hear very good accounts of the state +of the supplies there, and am told that we have bought, in +addition to grain, &c., considerable quantities of flour and +bread. +</p> + +<p> +This is by far the most satisfactory intelligence we have +yet received since we landed in Abyssinia, and if these supplies +continue to come in, it will very greatly shorten the duration +of our campaign. The great question is to accumulate +supplies sufficient for us to march to Magdala. As long as +we have to consume the supplies the mules bring up, the +process of accumulation must be a very long one. Flour and +meat are the only two articles of diet which are of material +weight. The preserved vegetables, tea, sugar, and salt, amount +together to under six ounces per diem per man; and one +mule would therefore carry the rations of 500 men of these +articles. When we reach Antalo and join the advanced force +our number will not exceed 1200 Europeans, and 50 mules +will carry three weeks’ rations for them, exclusive of meat, +which we can always purchase, flour, and rum. At present +the ration of rum is one drachm a day, but it is possible that +at any moment this may be stopped; and it is at all events +probable that no rum will be carried beyond Antalo. If, +therefore, we can purchase flour and meat along the march, +and the Europeans of the advance force number 3000, we +shall only require six mules a day to carry their rations, or +186 mules for a month’s supply. Of course this calculation +will not hold good for our journey, as it is most improbable +that we shall succeed in getting flour or bread along the road; +but if we can only buy sufficient quantities for our consumption +while we are stopping at Antalo, it will be an immense +<pb n="272"/><anchor id="Pg272"/>relief to the transport-train. The native bread is not at all +bad. It is baked in cakes about an inch thick and eight +inches in diameter. It is dark in colour, and sometimes +sour; but I have tasted some as good bread as one could +wish to eat. The price I have paid here is a dollar for five of +these loaves, weighing about a pound and a half each. Wood +is very scarce, a dollar being charged for four bundles of +sticks weighing under ten pounds a bundle. +</p> + +<p> +The pause of to-day is made partly to enable the artillery +to repair a wheel of one of their store-wagons, which broke +in coming down the last descent, partly to rest the animals, +which now, after four days’ work, greatly needed a day’s rest. +We require more cavalry with us. The 3d Native Cavalry +have had tremendously hard work; what with marching and +picket-duty, the men never get more than two nights in the +week in bed, and sometimes not more than one. It is surprising +how the animals, with so great an amount of work +and with insufficient food, keep in such good condition as +they are at present. All the animals will, however, be improved +by a short stay at Antalo. +</p> + +<p> +The weather has very much changed since we left Ad +Abaga. We have a strong and really cold north-wind blowing +all day, and between five and eight o’clock of an evening +it is most cutting. At night it drops; and the temperature is +then not so cold as it was either at Senafe or Attegrat. The +natives generally are affected with coughs and colds; and the +amount of coughing which goes on at night in the vicinity of +our tent is both astonishing and disagreeable. +</p> + +<p> +Sir Charles Staveley came up from Zulla, and joined us on +the day of our leaving Ad Abaga. He has taken command +of the advanced brigade. I hear that, owing to the quantities +<pb n="273"/><anchor id="Pg273"/>of stores taken up by the trains which accompanied General +Collings’s column and our own, the supplies at Senafe and +other places along the line were very low; so much so, that +the troops who were ordered up have been kept back at Zulla +until further stores could be accumulated. I trust that by +this time a large stock has been collected at Senafe, as Captain +<anchor id="corr273"/><corr sic="Grifiths">Griffiths</corr>, who commanded the portion of the transport-train +which went forward with General Collings’s column, has +just passed downward with his mules to fetch up another +supply. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Antalo, March 4th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Antalo, March 4th"/> + +<dateline>Antalo, March 4th.</dateline> + +<p> +When I wrote, four days since, from Doullo, I mentioned +that we had news of flour and other stores being purchased +in considerable quantities at Antalo, and that if supplies continued +to come in, the prospects of the expedition would be +altogether changed. But I certainly did not anticipate that +we should be able to advance from here under three weeks +or a month. Two days before we arrived here, indeed, there +were rumours of a much earlier move than had been anticipated; +and an order was issued that in all probability we +should be compelled to go forward without either rum, tea, +or sugar. Of course everyone is prepared to make great +sacrifices, and to submit to every hardship which may be +absolutely necessary. Every reduction of kit, the dismissal +of the native followers, and the diminution of carriage, has +been received not only without a murmur, but with actual +satisfaction by everyone. The reductions were felt to be +necessary; for in no other way would it be possible to +penetrate this inhospitable country. It was considered +pro<pb n="274"/><anchor id="Pg274"/>bable that beyond Lât we should have to go without tents, +and with only a blanket and one change of clothes; and I +have not heard an expression of repugnance or complaint at +the prospect: but this order to proceed without rum, tea, +or sugar, was received with the gravest dissatisfaction by +men and officers of all ranks. It was not as a matter of +comfort that it was objected to, but as a matter of health. +Rum is an article difficult of carriage, and can be dispensed +with; sugar also might be done without; but tea is +upon a campaign like this an absolute necessity, if the men +are to have no rum. It is not that the tea is nice, for it +certainly is not; it is positively nasty. It bears no resemblance +whatever to the herb we drink in England as tea; +at the same time it is an absolute essential. The mornings +and nights are very cold; the troops are on the move at +half-past five in the morning, when everything is saturated +with dew; they are hard at work all day; their picket-duty +is very severe; and to give them with their breakfast in the +morning and their supper at the end of their day’s work +nothing but cold water to drink, was simply to send the +whole army into hospital. Were the water good, the results +might not have been so disastrous, but it is almost always +drawn from stagnant pools, and is the reverse of wholesome. +Officers generally drink the water only after filtering, but +the men never think of taking the trouble. Boiling the +water is no doubt even superior in its effect to filtering it; +but the men would certainly not boil the water if they had +nothing to put in it. They would drink nothing but impure +water, which in a country where the changes in temperature +are so great and so sudden as they are here, would +most certainly bring on dysentery in a very short time. The +<pb n="275"/><anchor id="Pg275"/>privation of their rum would in itself be much felt among +the men. They have all been some years in India, where +rum forms part of a soldier’s regular ration. They are accustomed +to its use, and no doubt would feel somewhat its +sudden privation. Had they been troops fresh from England, +it would have mattered comparatively little. Our +adjutant-general, Colonel Thesiger, is a total abstainer; I +believe that is the polite expression for a teetotaller. Of +course his theory is, that men are much better without +spirits; and the present will be a great opportunity for testing +the effects of a Maine Law. I believe, however, that +officers and men would give up their rum and their sugar +without a murmur where tea is but allowed them; but I am +sure that bad water alone will lay up half the troops. Nor +will there be any saving in carriage by leaving tea behind. +We shall have to take a greater weight of medicines than +we should of the tea. The reason given for thus leaving behind +what everyone feels to be, bad as it is, the most precious +portion of our stores, was, that we can procure any amount +of native carriage, but that the natives will only carry +flour and grain, and refuse to undertake the carriage of +rum, sugar, and tea, partly because of the greater responsibility, +and partly because of the shape of the barrels and +casks, which are inconvenient to pack upon the little oxen +and donkeys. Everyone asks, Have we, then, no carriage +of our own? Have we no available transport-mules besides +those carrying the tents? One mule will carry from 150 to +200 pounds weight, which would give 500 men their day’s +ration of tea. The advance brigade will not contain much +over 3000 men, and consequently fifty mules will carry two +months’ rations of tea for them; and it is an extraordinary +<pb n="276"/><anchor id="Pg276"/>thing if, out of the 15,000 baggage-animals in the transport-train, +fifty cannot be spared to carry an article which everyone +feels to be all-important both for the health and comfort +of the troops. I am sure that Sir Robert Napier himself +consented with the greatest reluctance to the proposition, +and that he shares in the general satisfaction which is experienced +at the report that the commissariat find that some +of the natives are consenting to take on tea, if it is packed +in skins or in stout bags, and that therefore a proportion +of tea will at any rate be taken on. +</p> + +<p> +I began this letter by saying that the news of the purchase +of flour and grain would, if true, completely change +the whole prospect of the expedition. I am happy to say +that the news we heard is now more than verified, and that +the commissariat are purchasing at the rate of 12,000 lbs. +or 14,000 lbs. of flour a day. In addition to this, they are +buying sufficient bread for the daily consumption of the +troops. Very large convoys of native baggage-animals have +also come in during the last few days, and we find ourselves +with two months’ provision of all kinds, and four months’ +provision of flour already in hand for the whole of the advanced +division. This is a more forward state of things +than I expected to have seen in another two months, and +entirely alters the prospect of the campaign. Had we found +the same dearth of food here which we experienced all along +the line, we must have waited so long that it would have +been an impossibility to have returned before the rain. Now +there is a chance of our so doing. +</p> + +<p> +Sanguine spirits even mention the 1st of April as the +probable day for reaching Magdala. If we are there at the +end of the first week in April, we shall, should Theodore +<pb n="277"/><anchor id="Pg277"/>await us and no hitch occur, start upon our return march +by the 15th, pass through this place by the 7th of May, and +be at Zulla in another month, that is, before the rains begin. +I have, however, seen so many unforeseen obstacles, so many +unavoidable delays occur since we first landed, that I cannot +put any faith in this sudden express speed. When we +arrived here two days since, the intention was that we should +march on the 6th. I hear that our advance is now postponed, +at any rate, until the 9th; and I should not be surprised +if we were here for a week after that date. The fact +is, no one knows anything whatever about the roads in front +of us. All travellers, with one exception, who have journeyed +here have turned to the right at Antalo, and have +gone down the valley to Socota. The one exception is Dr. +Krapf, and his report of the road is far too vague to be of +any practical utility. It only requires a look to the southward +of this camp to give us a notion of the country we +are going to travel through. A chain of rugged mountains +with peak rising beyond peak extends in an unbroken line. +Over or through them we have somehow to get, and at +present we know next to nothing about them. +</p> + +<p> +A pioneer force of two companies of the 33d, some of +the Beloochees, some Punjaub pioneers, sappers, and miners, +and the Scinde horse have gone on ahead to make roads, +and the reports we have at present received from them are +the reverse of favourable. +</p> + +<p> +Lât is our next halting-place; and until we hear that the +road to that place is practicable for mules, it is no use advancing +from here, where we are living upon the country +and consuming no stores. +</p> + +<p> +I now return to the narrative of our march here. From +<pb n="278"/><anchor id="Pg278"/>Doullo to Icullot was only an eight-miles’ march across a by-no-means +difficult country. The next march on to this place +was twelve miles, and the country was very undulating; but +such an excellent road had been made by the advanced +brigade that the mules had no difficulty whatever in crossing +it. This road was better than anything we have traversed +since we left Senafe. The Commander-in-chief, however, +did not go by the same route, but turned off to visit Chalicote, +a considerable town lying a little distance out of the +line of march. +</p> + +<p> +Chalicote is more prettily situated than any town we have +hitherto seen. It lies in a well-wooded valley. The church +is in precisely the same style as that at Attegrat, with frescoes +drawn apparently by the same hand. I so fully described +the church at Attegrat, that any details respecting +this would be superfluous. +</p> + +<p> +The Chief was accompanied by some of his staff, and by +Mr. Holmes, of the British Museum, who had hoped to acquire +some old manuscripts there, especially as he had heard +of one said to be of great value, and bound in silver gilt. It +turned out, however, to be quite modern; and up to the +present time Mr. Holmes, although he has been indefatigable +in his search, has not succeeded in finding any manuscript +of great antiquity; he has, however, heard of some at a +place a little distant from our line of march, which he +hopes to acquire upon our return, and which, if they correspond +to the description given of them, will be of very great +value. It was hardly to be expected that, skirting as the +line of march does upon the very edge of the table-land of +Abyssinia—a portion of the country remote from the principal +towns, and exposed to the constant devastation of +bor<pb n="279"/><anchor id="Pg279"/>der warfare—any remains of very great antiquity would be +met with. Had our course led through Axoum, which was +the capital of that strange Greek possession of which Adulis +or Zulla was the seaport, we might have expected some +interesting discoveries to have taken place. There is yet a +possibility that we may see Axoum; for although, if there is +any chance of getting out of the country before the rainy +season, we shall of course make every effort to get back in +time, there is a rumour that, if we are obliged to pass the +wet season here, a portion of the force will go back by Axoum +and Adowa. +</p> + +<p> +This camp is called Antalo, but it is a mere name of +courtesy, like that of a good many English railway-stations. +It is nearly six miles from the town of Antalo, going by the +most direct and most difficult road; eight miles fully by the +more accessible path. The position of Antalo was certainly +selected more with a view to its defensibility than for its +convenience. It lies upon a small undulating plain six or +seven hundred feet above the general level of the valley, and +at the foot of a very lofty and precipitous hill which rises +nearly sheer up fifteen hundred feet above it. This hill is +accessible only at one or two places, and walls are built +across them; so that it forms a safe retreat for the inhabitants +of Antalo in the event of their being attacked by a +superior force. This hill fortress is called Amba Antalo. A +position such as this is no unnecessary protection in this part +of the country, for Antalo lies at the very edge of the territory +of the warlike Gallas. These tribes, whenever their +harvest is a bad one, gather together and make a foray upon +the villages of the plain, and sweep off crops and cattle. +Everywhere on the plain are ruined villages, which attest +<pb n="280"/><anchor id="Pg280"/>the frequency and ferocity of these forays; and Antalo itself +has evidently, and at no very distant time, contained four +times as large a population as it does at present. I rode +over there the day before yesterday to the weekly fair. +</p> + +<p> +I described fully the market at Attegrat in a former +letter; and as this was precisely the same scene upon a +rather larger scale, I have little to add to what I then said. +Very large quantities of flour were brought in, and the commissariat +secured a considerable supply. Numbers of mules, +donkeys, and cattle were also there. The small-goods market +too was crowded, and herbs and grain of all sorts—onions, +chillies, cloth, and most of the other articles I mentioned as +having seen at Attegrat—were here, with the exception +only of pumpkins, of which I did not see a single specimen. +I, however, bought three pounds of coffee, which I look upon +as a great prize, as it will be a change from the excessively +bitter herb termed by courtesy tea. The commissariat have +purchased a considerable quantity of coffee, and I am told we +shall find it much more plentiful as we go forward. This will +be a very great boon for the men. +</p> + +<p> +I think that the people here are more merry and full of +fun than those at Attegrat; they enter, or rather attempt +to enter, into conversation much more freely, and really seem +anxious to do anything for one. I had at least a dozen of +them yesterday all talking together, and endeavouring to +make out what I wanted to find out about some small +packets of lead-ore which were used as a medium of exchange. +It was a rich flaky ore, containing quite eighty per +cent of lead, and marking paper freely. I was very desirous +of finding out which part of the country it came from; +but neither my pantomime nor the united endeavours of the +<pb n="281"/><anchor id="Pg281"/>lookers-on to understand me availed to elicit the required +information. +</p> + +<p> +During my progress through the country I have not seen +any sign of mineral ground, with the exception of some very +rich samples of ironstone. During the last three or four +days’ march the formation has changed several times from +sandstone to a hard blue limestone, and <hi rend="italic">vice versâ</hi>. On the +faces of these bare hills it would be easy even at a distance to +detect the change of colour or the rising ridges which generally +indicate the existence of a vein of mineral; but, as I +have said, although I have carefully examined the country +as I passed through it, I have seen no mineral indication +whatever. +</p> + +<p> +To return to the fair. The scene, as at Attegrat, was +very amusing; and the attitude of the groups—the women +sitting about everywhere with their baskets, the men leaning +upon their spears, the cattle standing about in groups—the +whole scene reminded me strongly of an Irish fair, barring +only the absence of the friendly pig, with his agonised shriek +of expostulation and disgust. +</p> + +<p> +Antalo consists of four or five villages, each standing +upon the summits of small rises. They were formerly connected +together, and even now are surrounded by ruined +huts. The last blow Antalo suffered was three years ago, +when it was attacked by the Gallas, incited and led by a +rebel against Kassa, named Waldo Yasus. Both Antalo and +the villages on the plains suffered greatly at that time; and +a terrible attack of cholera, which swept over the country +shortly afterwards, completed their ruin. The houses have +all high conical roofs, thatched with rushes. Each house has +a courtyard surrounded by a high wall. The women here +<pb n="282"/><anchor id="Pg282"/>are less picturesque in dress and less pleasing in feature +than those of Attegrat. Their morality is lax in the extreme. +<q>A virtuous woman is a crown to her husband:</q> I fear +there are very few crowned heads in Abyssinia. I had left my +horse at the foot of the ascent from the plain up to Attegrat, +and had walked the last two miles. It was a very hot day, +and one of our first inquiries upon reaching the fair was for +<q>tedge.</q> We were conducted to what answered to a public-house. +Here we entered, and passing through a sort of outer +passage, found ourselves in almost outer darkness. It was +some time before we could see sufficiently to avail ourselves +of the invitation to be seated, but presently descried two seats +or couches, built up of stone and covered with skins. The +room was semicircular in form, and very lofty, going up to +the thatched roof, which was lined with bamboo; on either +side were small chambers, which appeared devoted to miscellaneous +purposes; for after we had been some minutes in the +place, and were able to see a little, we made out that a donkey +was standing placidly at the door of one of these chambers, +and that a goat and a fireplace were the principal articles of +furniture in the other. The walls of the room were smoothly +plastered, and as an abode it no doubt possessed the advantage +of coolness, even in the hottest weather. Tedge, as I +have before said, is a liquor made from fermented honey and +water, with herbs, and tastes like a mixture of small beer +and lemonade made from mouldy lemons, and was brought +in in a flask very like a Lucca oil-flask, but rather flatter, +and with a larger neck. From the neck of this flask we +drank by turns; and as it did not hold more than half a pint, +and as we were four in number and the clay was hot, we +demanded more. It seems that no more was strained; so a +<pb n="283"/><anchor id="Pg283"/>large jar was brought, the wife of the proprietor put a fold +of her very dirty garment over its mouth, and strained the +liquor through it into the flask, and we drank it. In calmer +moments and in other climes, it is probable that we should +not have done so—probable even that a feeling of sickness +would have overpowered us. I am happy to say, however, +that the army in Abyssinia has altogether overcome any feeling +of squeamishness. I have seen some rum drank in which +several cockroaches had committed suicide; and I have assisted +to eat honey which was black with ants whose appetites +had caused their untimely death. As for cooking, I confess +that I avoid the cooking-fires. I have seen sights which +have tried my philosophy to the utmost, and am now quite +content to eat the very excellent dinners our servants prepare +from rations, and not to think of the processes the meat has +undergone. My tent-companion and myself pride ourselves +much upon our cooks. They are two Goa Portuguese, and +are, we flatter ourselves, beyond all comparison the best cooks +in camp. Their soups are excellent, their cutlets the best I +ever tasted, their preserved potatoes, baked in cakes, delicious. +They sent up birds in as good a style as I can get +them in a London club. Their pumpkin-pie—when we could +get pumpkins—was the talk of camp; the fame of their baked +sheep’s head, with brain cutlets, came to the ears of Sir +Robert Napier himself. Imagine, then, our feelings, when +the stern decree was emanated—all native servants whatever +are to be sent away; each officer is to carry 75 lb. of luggage, +including bed, cooking-utensils, and plates and dishes; and +three officers are to be allotted to each bell-tent. Heads of +departments only are to be allowed a bell-tent between two. +At first we had believed that this order did not apply to us; +<pb n="284"/><anchor id="Pg284"/>that having our own baggage-animals, and providing our +forage, &c. at our own cost, and the tent being our own +property, we thought that it was a matter which concerned +no one but ourselves as to what or who we took on with us. +But we were deceived. Quartermaster-generals, eager to +effect the greatest possible cutting down, had their eyes upon +the special correspondents and the scientific gentlemen who +accompany the camp; and we were officially informed that +we must be amenable to the same rules as others. We pointed +out that we found our own carriage, and therefore that the +weight we carried mattered to no one; but were sternly informed +that if we purchased grain for our animals, there was +so much the less available for the public service. To a certain +extent this was true; and so we said that we were ready +to go on with the weight that other officers were allowed, +but that the tent in the first place was our own, and that it +would be quite impossible for three men to write in a tent +together. We were ready, therefore, to carry less than the +permitted 75 lbs. of baggage, in order to have half a tent +each; so that our total kit, including tent, would not exceed +the prescribed 140 lbs. Our friends in the quartermaster +department were quite unable to grant us this request, and +it was only upon a personal application to Sir Robert Napier +that we gained our point, as, upon our stating the case, he +at once consented to our retaining our own tent to ourselves. +The next question was that of servants. <q>All servants to be +sent back, a grass-cutter only being allowed for each horse.</q> +At first we thought we should be obliged to send our servants +back. Fortunately, however, a grass-cutter is allowed for +each horse; and as we have each two horses, we have retained +our cooks under the title of grass-cutters for our +<pb n="285"/><anchor id="Pg285"/>second horses. We are not singular in our management, +and there are very few staff-officers who have not managed +in some such manner to retain their servants. The fact is, +that a rule of this sort bears very much more hardly upon a +staff-officer, or a civilian living as we are, than it does upon +a regimental officer. A soldier-servant is allotted to each +officer upon application, and regimental officers who pick +handy men from their own companies, and who live three in +a tent, have their three soldier-servants between them as +usual. It is far otherwise with a staff-officer: he may obtain +a soldier-servant from a regiment; but that soldier does +not know him, and will not work for him as he will for his +own officer. In the next place, the soldier has certain regimental +work to do, which will take him away from his master’s +tent for a considerable portion of the day; and lastly, a +staff-officer is liable to be sent away on duty from the camp +where the regiment to which his servant belongs is stationed. +In our own case a soldier-servant would be useless; we might +wish at any moment to push on to the pioneer force, or to +accompany the Commander-in-chief upon a short expedition, +and we should then be left without any servant whatever. At +any rate, the order is generally evaded. Were it not that +two months must elapse before a copy of this letter can come +out to us, I should not speak so freely upon this point, as we +should be having a special committee of officers of the <sic>quarter-master-general’s</sic> +department assembling to consider the +question of <q>evasion of the general order relating to servants +by officers and civilians attached to the army.</q> +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> + +</div><div> +<pb n="286"/><anchor id="Pg286"/> +<index index="toc" level1="Antalo, March 7th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Antalo, March 7th"/> + +<dateline>Antalo, March 7th.</dateline> + +<p> +I am happy to say that Major Minion, of the commissariat, +arrived here early this morning with a large convoy, +carrying among other stores a large quantity of rum; and +it is now finally decided that a certain quantity of both rum +and tea shall be served out daily to the troops on the advance. +This happy state of things has been principally +brought about by the energetic remonstrances of all the +medical officers, and by their representation of the disastrous +effect which the sudden privation of tea and rum would +have upon the health of the troops, especially under the circumstances +of the water being so bad. Sir Robert Napier +himself was, I know, most averse to so extreme a measure; +and nothing but the most urgent feeling of the necessity of +pushing on in the lightest and most speedy manner could +have induced him to consent to it; and I am sure that he +is as pleased as anyone that he is able to continue the issue +of what are really essentials to the soldiers. +</p> + +<p> +It is still intended that we shall march on the 9th instant; +indeed, orders were issued for a forward movement for both +yesterday and to-day. The orders were, however, countermanded, +for the road is not practicable for more than one +day’s march. As to the state of the road beyond, we receive +contradictory reports. Colonel Phayre, with his usual +happy, sanguine way of seeing things, states, I hear, that +it is not a very bad road; while the engineer officer, on the +other hand, reports that it will require a great deal of work +to make it practicable for baggage-animals, especially for +the elephants with the guns. The reason why the order was +given for the troops to march forward at once was, that +<pb n="287"/><anchor id="Pg287"/>Colonel Phayre sent in to say that Waldo Yasus, the destroyer +of Antalo, had sent in to say that he should oppose +our passage. It caused quite an excitement for a time. But +I learn to-day that Brigadier-general Field, who commands +the pioneer forces, has sent in a letter to say that the whole +thing is a mistake, and that Waldo Yasus is perfectly +friendly, and that some of the Scindees have already gone on. +</p> + +<p> +M. Munzinger, whose name I have frequently had occasion +to mention as French consul at Massowah, and as accompanying +the force as political adviser and interpreter, +has gone on ahead on a mission to Gobayze. M. Munzinger +has been some years in the country; he has married an +Abyssinian woman, and owns villages and land near here. +He is therefore well known to the natives, speaks their language, +and is in every respect very well fitted for an expedition +of this sort. On the other hand, there is some dissatisfaction +among members of the staff, who say that an +officer ought to have been selected for a mission of such importance, +and should of course have been accompanied by +an interpreter. It is urged, too, that the French look with +great jealousy at our proceedings, and that their interests +are totally opposed to our own; and that therefore a gentleman, +however eligible in other respects, who is a French +official should not have been intrusted with so important a +mission. From all I have heard of M. Munzinger, I think +there need be no objection upon the latter score; but I confess +that I agree with those who think that a British officer—Major +Grant, for instance—ought to have gone as our +ambassador, or at least should have accompanied M. Munzinger. +M. Munzinger was, I believe, sent forward by +Colonel Merewether without Sir Robert Napier’s knowledge. +<pb n="288"/><anchor id="Pg288"/>As M. Munzinger went forward, he had an interview with +Waldo Yasus, who expressed some little fear that we, as +the friends of Kassa, might intend to attack his amba, or +fort, which stands on a lofty rock immediately beside the +defile through which we pass. M. Munzinger, however, +tranquillised him upon that score, and assured him that we +should in no way interfere with any dissensions in the country. +Waldo expressed himself as perfectly satisfied. M. Munzinger +has now nearly reached Lake Ashangi, and his report of +the road is decidedly favourable. +</p> + +<p> +The gentleman to whom this expedition is most greatly +indebted, and who has done infinitely more with the natives +than the whole of our so-called politicals and interpreters +put together, is Mr. Speedy. I have already mentioned that +Mr. Speedy was sent for from New Zealand to accompany +the expedition, Sir Stafford Northcote having strongly recommended +him to Sir Robert Napier. The summons arrived +somewhat unexpectedly to Mr. Speedy, for he had +already written to Colonel Merewether volunteering his +services, which had been declined by that officer. Mr. +Speedy, however, came off in three days after he received +General Napier’s communication. His services here have +been simply invaluable. Almost every useful negotiation +with the natives has been conducted by him. He speaks +the language exceedingly well, and is unwearied in his +work. He hears complaints, receives chiefs, and is in fact +at present our great medium of communication with the +natives. He may be said to have completely extinguished +the little light of our former politicals. Unquestionably he +would have been the man to have sent to Gobayze; but even +had not Colonel Merewether sent off his emissary, M. +Mun<pb n="289"/><anchor id="Pg289"/>zinger, without consulting Sir Robert Napier, the Commander-in-chief +would not have parted with Mr. Speedy, who +is now his right-hand in all his communications with the +natives. Among the other stores which have arrived to-day +is some tobacco. The quantity is quite insufficient for the +wants of the troops during their advance; but even a small +supply per man will be a very great boon, for at present +there is hardly any tobacco left among them. Even the +officers’ supplies are beginning to run short, and they as +well as the men will soon be reduced to smoke the country +tobacco, which is a disgusting mixture of tobacco and cow-dung +formed into flat cakes. +</p> + +<p> +The generals of the advanced force are Brigadier-general +Field (who has only just been promoted), who commands the +pioneer force; Brigadier-general Schneider, who has the +first brigade; and Brigadier-general Wilby the second. +Brigadier-general Collings, who has hitherto commanded +the advanced brigade, is to be left behind here. This has +naturally given rise to very strong comment. General Collings +is far senior in the service to any of the men who have +been thus chosen for the post of honour, and he has seen +probably as much active service as the other three officers +together. He is in every respect an excellent soldier and a +most popular man; and there is a general feeling that his +being thus passed over is a most undeserved slight, to put +it in the mildest form. There is another reason why he +should have certainly formed part of the advance. The first +division is composed almost entirely of Europeans; and yet +two out of the three officers chosen are Indian officers who +have never commanded an English soldier during the whole +of their service. General Collings has not, as far as I have +<pb n="290"/><anchor id="Pg290"/>heard, in any way neglected his duty; and his case is a +matter of regret and sympathy with every officer with whom +I have spoken—I mean, of course, outside the charmed pale +of the official circle. +</p> + +<p> +The general health of the troops continues excellent. +There have been a few cases of dysentery, but the hospitals +are all but empty. +</p> + +<p> +Antalo is low, that is, in comparison with some of the +places we have marched through: it is little over 6000 feet +above the sea, that is, 3000 feet lower than Ad Abaga. The +nights are consequently much milder than those we have +lately experienced. The sun is hot between eight and ten in +the morning; but at the latter hour a breeze springs up, which +continues to blow with violence all day, and renders the heat +of the sun, which would otherwise be great, bearable and even +pleasant. The spirit of the troops is no less good than their +health. Men who were marching up with the first wings of +the 4th and 33d would suffer anything from sore feet rather +than say a word on the subject, lest they should be left behind. +One case of this illustrates the feeling even more strongly. +The day upon which we marched out from Attegrat, three +of the men of the 4th in some way obtained some liquor, +and were convicted of drunkenness upon the line of march. +This is a serious military offence, punishable by fifty lashes; +but Colonel Cameron told them that, as they were all good-conduct +men, he would only punish them by sending them +back to the wing behind. The men all came forward and requested +as a favour to be flogged instead of being left behind. +Nothing could speak in stronger terms for the spirit of the +troops than this. I am glad to say that, in consideration +of their previous good conduct, Colonel Cameron felt +him<pb n="291"/><anchor id="Pg291"/>self enabled to pardon them. This fact, in itself, is a better +answer to those who argue for the abolition of corporal +punishment in the army than a hundred pamphlets would +be. The only cogent reason of any force which the objectors +to corporal punishment can allege is, that it degrades +a soldier in his own eyes, and that he is good for nothing +afterwards. Now, this is not the case. I have at various +times spoken to hundreds of soldiers on the subject, and +their answer is almost invariably the same: <q>It is not the +punishment in which is the disgrace; it is the crime. If +a man is flogged for stealing, he gets it thrown in his teeth +afterwards that he has been flogged for being a thief; but +if he gets a drop too much, and perhaps is impudent to a +sergeant or officer, he may be flogged, but he will never have +it brought up against him as a disgrace afterwards.</q> The +present instance proves this. These three soldiers, all good-conduct +men, who had seen seven years of service, all considered +that there would be much greater disgrace in being +sent to the rear than in being flogged. +</p> + +<p> +There is not very much shooting in this neighbourhood; +a few guinea-fowls and grouse, and an occasional hare, have +been bagged, but even these are scarce. As for the wild-beasts, +of which we were to see so much, they simply are +not. The rhinoceroses, who were to dispute the passage of +the defiles; the alligators and hippopotami, who were to lurk +around the watering-places, and to render the fetching a +jug of water a service of as great danger as was the drawing +a goblet from the enchanted fountain in our dear old +fairy tales,—all these monsters are unknown here. We hear +of lions, indeed, but somehow they are never found in the +parts of the country we traverse. The hyena and jackal +<pb n="292"/><anchor id="Pg292"/>are the only animals met with which could, even by courtesy, +be called wild-beasts. These, indeed, swarm; and +their numerous holes are a serious hindrance and danger +to riders; beyond this they are harmless, and one would as +soon think of shooting a fox as a jackal. Sportsmen are +seriously disappointed; almost everyone has brought out +either rifle or gun, and many have carried both. Now, +when our luggage is limited to seventy-five pounds, the +weight of even one rifle, with its bullet-mould and a good +stock of lead and powder, is a very material consideration; +and, after the sacrifice of many little comforts to retain the +rifle, it is very hard to find that it is quite useless. There +is still a faint hope that we may find large game near the +Ashangi Lake; but, considering that it is over 5000 feet +above the sea, I can hardly think it is likely that we shall +find any large game there, except perhaps elephants. The +owners of fowling-pieces are better off. There have been +few camping-grounds where a good shot might not get a +guinea-fowl or two in an hour’s ramble; and a guinea-fowl +well cooked is one of the best game birds I know. Powder +and shot are very valuable; indeed, they cannot be bought +at any price, unless one is fortunate enough to find some one +who, in the readjustment of his baggage, finds that he cannot +possibly carry on all his stock of ammunition. +</p> + +<p> +The plains here are singularly devoid of flowers: I never +travelled in any country, indeed, where there was such a +complete absence of wild-flowers; excepting, of course, the +little watered dells, which I have described in previous letters. +There is one solitary sort of flower, however, which I have +met with in the plains in the neighbourhood, and which +differs from any I ever saw before: it is a pea. The flower +<pb n="293"/><anchor id="Pg293"/>is of the size and colour of the <q>everlasting-pea;</q> but, instead +of growing as a climber, the flower grows upon its own +stalk from the ground. These flowers grow in clusters; but +there are no leaves or stems, with the exception of the flower-stalk +itself, three or four inches in height. The flower has +a scent exactly resembling that of a violet, but less powerful: +the seed is contained in a long, narrow pod, like that of a +wallflower. +</p> + +<p> +Scorpions are rather abundant here; and so, I am sorry to +say, are white ants. It is not that one has any peculiar objection +to white ants. They are certainly repulsive-looking +insects, with their flabby white bodies and their big yellow +heads, but that is of little consequence; and if they would +but content themselves with walking about the tents and +climbing over everything, as do other ants, together with +spiders of every size, and a few beetles, one would not wish +to interfere with their pleasures. Unfortunately they will +not amuse themselves in this harmless way: they shun the +light, and work in darkness, and their work consists in eating +holes in the bottom of one’s portmanteau, or in the waterproof-sheet +under one’s bed, or one’s saddles, or books, or +anything else which may come handy to them. +</p> + +<p> +Now, as we are going to leave most of our portmanteaus +and luggage here until we return, this propensity of theirs +becomes a grave inconvenience. I fancy that we shall find +our luggage, when we return, in a very dilapidated condition. +There is only one satisfaction,—our clothes are rapidly getting +into a state beyond which even white ants can effect +little further damage. +</p> + +<p> +The remaining wing of the 4th Regiment arrived two +days ago, and the second wing of the 33d marched in this +<pb n="294"/><anchor id="Pg294"/>morning. We have therefore all the troops now collected in +readiness for the forward move, with the exception only of +a portion of the Beloochees, the 3d Dragoon Guards, and +the elephants with the six-inch mortars; together with the +elephants to carry Murray’s guns. All these will, it is said, +be here in two or three days. There is another thing of +some slight importance lacking: this is money. +</p> + +<p> +The commissariat have purchased such enormous quantities +of flour and other stores, that the money brought up is +exhausted. Fortunately another treasure-convoy is expected +in a day or two. +</p> + +<p> +This morning, at a quarter to six, General Staveley had +all the troops out for a field-day. A deserted village upon +a rising ground was attacked and carried in excellent style; +but the manœuvres would have no interest to a general reader +beyond those of any garrison field-day. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Antalo, March 11th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Antalo, March 11th"/> + +<dateline>Antalo, March 11th.</dateline> + +<p> +When Colonel Phayre went ahead on the day of our arrival +at Antalo, and reported that the road was rather bad, but not +impracticable, every one looked at the range of peaks ahead +of us and had serious misgivings. An order was issued for +our march upon the 7th, and a party of pioneers were sent +on to clear away any slight obstacles which might occur. +The report of their commanding officer as to the state of the +road was most unfavourable, and a wing of the 33d were +sent out to assist. In consequence of the reports which +came in, the march was postponed to the 9th, and Captain +Macgregor, of the quartermaster’s department, was sent +out to report. On the evening of the 8th a joint report from +<pb n="295"/><anchor id="Pg295"/>this officer and Captain Goodfellow, of the Engineers, was +received. It stated, <q>that they knew nearly every pass in +India, but that in their experience they had met nothing +whatever to compare to this defile, and that the Sooro pass +was child’s-play in comparison. With the 800 men at work, +it would, they calculated, take another ten days’ labour to +make it practicable for mules.</q> All this time Colonel Phayre +was still in front, but his reports gave us no idea of the true +state of things. In the mean time we were receiving reports +from Mr. Munzinger, who, as I stated in my last, had gone +ahead to see Gobayze, and he said that the road, although +difficult in places, was by no means bad. Of course, on the +receipt of the reports of Captains Macgregor and Goodfellow, +the march was again postponed. Everyone was indignant. +Sir Robert Napier, I have reason to know, was more indignant +than anyone, for his heart is set upon getting onward +as fast as possible. On the 9th arrived an officer from the +front, with the astounding intelligence that he had just ridden +down the other road, which was known to exist; that it was +six miles shorter; it passed over the mountain range at a +point 1500 feet lower than the other, and presented throughout +its whole distance no serious difficulties whatever. This +it appeared, was the very route that Munzinger had travelled, +and the discrepancies between his accounts and the real state +of things were at once explained. At first the news was +received with absolute incredulity. It seemed impossible +that the quartermaster-general could have kept the troops +at work for a week upon an impracticable road, when a good +one lay ready at hand. The road, too, which Colonel Phayre +had not explored is called the Royal road, which in itself +was sufficient to show that it was the best and most +fre<pb n="296"/><anchor id="Pg296"/>quented of the two. But the fact was, our political officer +had heard that a rebel chief had a fortress upon this road; +the same chief whom I mentioned in my last as having been +reported by Colonel Phayre as opposing our way. The man +really is perfectly friendly, and was at first rather more afraid +of us than our quartermaster-general was of him. However, +the mere fact of his being there was assumed to be a good +reason for our not taking the road. And so a precious week +has been wasted, and all the labour thrown away. The new +road is, of course, not yet passable for the elephants with +the heavy guns, but Sir Robert will push on with the 4th +Regiment and the steel guns, and the 33d and the pioneer +force will set to work and get it in order for the rest of the +force as soon as possible. It is not often that we find a +pioneer force engaged in making a road after the head-quarters +and part of the army have gone by. Our first +march is only eight miles. The distance thence up the pass +is nineteen. I believe that the troops will do it in two days, +but that Sir Robert Napier, with an escort, will go straight +through to Attala, in order to judge for himself of the real +state of things. +</p> + +<p> +Our items of news from the rear are but of slight general +interest. Captain St. John reports, I am told, that the +natives have ceased to damage the telegraph-wires; but as +a <hi rend="italic">per-contra</hi>, he says that the wires are frequently broken by +the baboons, who climb up the poles, and hang on the wires +by their tails. I am assured that this is an absolute fact. +One of the mule-drivers near Attegrat shot a native the +other day. The man, who was armed with a gun, attempted +to rob the mule; but the driver resisted, wrenched the gun +from his hand, and shot him. The robber is not dead, but +<pb n="297"/><anchor id="Pg297"/>lies in a precarious state. The lesson was greatly required; +but instead of being rewarded for his conduct, the mule-driver +got a dozen lashes! I hope that the next driver +whose mule is attacked will allow it to be looted, and that +the functionary who has just so ably instructed mule-drivers +not to defend the public property will be ordered to pay the +cost of the stores stolen. Tents have been erected here for +the reception of such luggage as cannot be carried on under +the present regulations. I sent my portmanteau in this +morning, and had the pleasure when moving it of finding +that the white ants had eaten a large hole in the bottom. +I do not expect to find any remains of it, or of its contents, +upon my return. Captain Moore, the Commander-in-chief’s +interpreter, has gone on ahead to pacify the local chiefs, and +to assure them that we have no intention of molesting them. +No better man could have been selected for the office. Captain +Moore speaks almost every known language, and has +had as much experience of native potentates as any man +living. Major Grant has gone on to Attala, to buy provisions, +&c. An officer of his African experience and standing +would have been far better employed as an ambassador +to King Gobayze; while bargaining with natives would +have been much more in accordance with Mr. Munzinger’s +experience and powers. Some tobacco has come up, and has +been distributed among the troops, to their great satisfaction. +During the last few days the troops have been exercised in +turning out rapidly on the alarm being sounded. The sentries +have, too, been placed and instructed as if in front of an +enemy, who might at any moment make a night attack. +</p> + +<p> +The natives here unanimously express their hopes and +wishes that we should take possession of the country and +<pb n="298"/><anchor id="Pg298"/>become their masters. Our style of paying for everything +we require has taken them entirely by surprise. It is altogether +contrary to their experience. There is no doubt that +they are extremely poor, and terribly ground down, and +many of their very numerous vices are, to a certain extent, +excusable upon this score. They are so poor that they will +sell anything for dollars—their corn, their flour, their donkeys, +their cattle, their wives, or their daughters. They are a +terribly priest-ridden people. I should say that no people in +the world pay such extortionate dues. The priests claim two-fifths +of the gross produce; of the remainder one-third is +claimed by the King; then comes the local chief: so that +finally the unfortunate cultivator gets less than one-fifth of +the crop he has raised. It is no wonder that the people are +poor, and that in times of drought, or when the locusts sweep +over the land, or the rebels, more destructive still, carry off +crops and herds and flocks, famine stalks through the land. +There is no doubt that our mastership would be an unmixed +blessing to them, but it would certainly be the very reverse +of advantageous to ourselves. From our landing at Zulla +to the present time we have passed through a country more +barren than any I ever traversed. Except for grazing purposes +it is absolutely valueless. Here and there, in the +valleys, are little patches of cultivation by the side of the +streams; but in the whole two hundred miles we have passed +through, looking east and west as far as the eye can reach, I +do not think that we have seen, in all, five hundred acres +of cultivated land. Taking the two hundred miles north and +south by, say, ten miles east and west—in all, two thousand +square miles—I would not take the fee-simple as a gift. I +am not, of course, suggesting that the ground we have +<pb n="299"/><anchor id="Pg299"/>traversed is to be taken as a fair sample of Abyssinia. +Unquestionably it is not so. It would be as fair to land in +the north of England, and to skirt the sea-coast, keeping +on the Cumberland, Westmoreland, Lancashire, Welsh, and +Cornwall hills, and then to pronounce England a sterile +country. Still, by what we have seen, by the ranges of +mountain-summits discernible everywhere in the far west, +it is evident that a very large portion of Abyssinia is mere +grazing-land; and it is probable that the valleys and low-lying +plains, which are extremely fertile, would be unhealthy for +European constitutions. Whatever ideas may have been +entertained at one time as to our taking possession of a +country so rich, so fertile, and so salubrious as this was +represented to be, the experience of this expedition must +have entirely dispelled this notion. The general aspect of +the country is so bare, the fertile portions so distant from the +coast, the roads so impracticable, that any idea of English +colonisers settling here, as suggested by Mr. Dufton and +others, is simply preposterous; and in addition to all this, a +very large force would be required to keep a warlike and +turbulent people in order. We see by the English papers +that <q>A British Taxpayer</q> has been writing indignantly, +demanding why two or three thousand men were not sufficient +for this paltry business. If the British Taxpayer had +been out here, he would not have asked such a question. +British soldiers are by no means men to overrate difficulties, +or to hold their enemies at higher than their real value. +But the universal opinion here is, that we have not one man +too many in the country. The tribes of Shohos on the sea-coast; +the King of Tigre, who can summon 20,000 or 30,000 +men to his banner; the fierce Gallas, through whom we have +<pb n="300"/><anchor id="Pg300"/>still to pass,—all these have been, and probably will be, +friendly. But why? Simply because we are strong enough +to keep them in order. No one doubts for a moment that if +they thought that they were strong enough, they would fall +upon us instantly for the sake of plunder. If the three thousand +men who, according to this critic, would have been +amply sufficient, could have been endowed with the agreeable +faculty of going for three months without food, and if +their horses had been similarly gifted, they would without +doubt have been amply sufficient. Three thousand British +soldiers, as long as they keep together in a compact body, +could march from the Mediterranean to the Cape of Good +Hope. But, unfortunately, men and animals who can go for +three months without food are scarce in these degenerate +days. Our experience here is that, with the exception of +meat, no food whatever is procurable between Zulla and our +present most advanced post, with the solitary exception of +Antalo. Grain for the animals is almost as scarce. We +have bought small quantities, indeed, at most of the stations, +but we never get it for the first few days after our arrival. +It is only after we have been at a place for a short time, and +when the people find out how large a sum we pay for it, +that they bring in even small quantities. Then the problem +would present itself: these three thousand men must be fed. +To be fed, they must carry supplies with them. These supplies +must be conveyed upon baggage-animals. These baggage-animals +must be fed. But there is no food to be +obtained as they march on direct. Therefore, it is evident +that dépôts must be formed, and these must be guarded; +communication must be kept up, roads must be made to some +extent, for there are many places perfectly impracticable for +<pb n="301"/><anchor id="Pg301"/>loaded animals. And so the three thousand men would be +frittered all over the country, and would be harassed to +death by overwork and watching, and it is certain they could +never penetrate to Magdala. Has a <q>Taxpayer</q> ever read +the history of the French campaign in Spain? Has he any +idea of the number of hundred thousand men who marched +into that country, and of the numbers who returned to +France? A very small proportion of the deficit fell under +British steel and lead. They were accounted for by the +peasantry. They died, shot down upon baggage-guard, cut +off when in search of provisions, surprised when in small +parties, harassed to death by overwork. Such would have +been the fate of three thousand men landing in Abyssinia. +The people here are as brave as the Spaniards, the country is +beyond all comparison more difficult, and the resources which, +it offers to an invader are as nothing to those of Spain. +Our force, as it is now constituted, is sufficient to overawe +the country, and it is fortunate that it is so. For I say fearlessly, +and there is not an officer here who would not support +me in that opinion, that if the people were hostile, we could +not even with our present force have ever hoped to reach +Magdala. It would have been a sheer impossibility. A +mere passive resistance, the driving away of flocks and +herds, and the burning of the grass, would have brought us +to a standstill at Senafe; while the bare idea of defending our +communication, and guarding the enormous trains required +for our march of three hundred miles through a barren, +hostile, and most difficult country, is so supremely ridiculous +as to be laughable. The experiment of the three thousand +men, had it been tried, would have ended in a disaster such +as, with the exception of Cabul, the British arms have never +<pb n="302"/><anchor id="Pg302"/>experienced, and it must afterwards have been retrieved with +a force of three times the strength even of our present one, +and at an expenditure which might have taught even the +<q>British Taxpayer</q> that penny wisdom is an equivalent for +pound foolishness. +</p> + +<p> +A general order has just appeared regulating the whole +distribution of the troops; and as this is a final arrangement, +it will no doubt be interesting to all who have friends in the +army here. +</p> + +<p> +First Division.—Major-general Staveley, K.C.B., in +command; Colonel Wood, deputy-adjutant-general; Major +Baigrie, deputy-quartermaster-general. Pioneer Force: Brigadier-general +Field. Troops: forty sabres 3d Native Cavalry; +forty Scinde Horse; 3d and 4th company Bombay Sappers +and Miners; two companies 33d Regiment; two companies +Beloochees; one company Punjaub Pioneers. +</p> + +<p> +First Brigade, Brigadier-general Schneider.—Troops: +Head-quarters wing 3d Dragoon Guards, 3d Native Cavalry, +Scinde Horse, G battery, 14, Royal Artillery, A battery 21st +company Royal Artillery, 4th King’s Own, Head-quarters +and eight companies 33d, 10th company Royal Engineers, +Head-quarters and two companies Beloochees, Head-quarters +wing 10th Native Infantry. +</p> + +<p> +Second Brigade, Brigadier-general Wilby.—Wing of 12th +Bengal Cavalry, B battery 21st Royal Artillery, two 8-inch +mortars, with detachment 5th battery 25th Royal Artillery, +Rocket Naval Brigade, K company Madras Sappers, seven +companies Punjaub Pioneers, wing of Beloochees. +</p> + +<p> +It will thus be seen that the 1st Division consists of four +entire infantry regiments—the 4th, 33d, Beloochees, and +Punjaub Pioneers—and a wing of the 10th Native Infantry, +<pb n="303"/><anchor id="Pg303"/>of the 3d Native Cavalry, the Scinde Horse, a wing of the +Dragoon Guards, and a wing of the 12th Bengal Cavalry, +three batteries of Royal Artillery and two 8-inch mortars, +and three companies of Sappers and Miners and one company +of Royal Engineers; an admirably-selected force, and which, +as long as it kept together, would be invincible. +</p> + +<p> +Another general order has also been promulgated, which +I have very great pleasure in giving, because it does full justice +to a most meritorious and hardworking body of officers. +I have the more pleasure in giving publication to the order, +as it thoroughly indorses the opinion I have all along stated +that the transport officers were in no way to blame for the +confusion which took place at Zulla: +</p> + +<p> +<q>General Order.—Head-quarters, Camp Antalo, March +4th.—The Commander-in-chief has lately received from the +Director Transport Train, Abyssinia field force, a full and +particular report of the service rendered to the corps by the +officers under his command. His Excellency has perused this +report with much satisfaction, and it is most gratifying to +him to find that, in spite of the numerous and extraordinary +difficulties with which the officers of the transport-train have +had to contend, and notwithstanding the hard and unceasing +work they have had to perform, they have, almost without +exception, displayed an amount of steady determination to do +their best which is beyond all praise. The Commander-in-chief +begs to assure Major Warden and the officers under his +command that the work performed by them has not been +overlooked, and shall not be forgotten. His Excellency trusts +that one and all will remember that upon their individual +exertions depends, in a great measure, the success of the +expedition. The transport-train, for reasons far beyond +<pb n="304"/><anchor id="Pg304"/>the control of the officers belonging to it, has just commenced +to assume that military organisation so requisite to its well-being, +and for want of which at first it suffered so severely.... +The Commander-in-chief is well aware how much +the services of the officers of the transport-train have been +depreciated, and how unfairly blame has been attached to +them for shortcomings beyond their control. His Excellency, +however, assures them that he has never for a moment lost +confidence in them, nor has he ever doubted that their exertions +would eventually bring order and regularity out of +confusion and indiscipline.... All cannot of course +work under the eye of the Commander-in-chief, and comparatively +few can accompany the advanced force; but his +Excellency will make no distinction when the campaign is +over between those who were in front and those who were +necessarily in the rear. All by good work can contribute +materially to the success of the campaign, and it will be by +that standard, and by that alone, that his Excellency will be +guided when making hereafter his report upon the services +performed by the officers under his command.—By order of +his Excellency the Commander-in-chief. Fred. Thesiger, +lieutenant-colonel, deputy-adjutant-general.</q> +</p> + +<p> +Never was liberal praise more deserved, and it will be +most gratifying to the men who have slaved and toiled almost +night and day in the face of every possible discouragement. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Meshech, March 14th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Meshech, March 14th"/> + +<dateline>Meshech, March 14th.</dateline> + +<p> +We have advanced two days’ marches into the Abyssinian +hills, and at every step forward we see more clearly the +diffi<pb n="305"/><anchor id="Pg305"/>culties with which we have to struggle. The first day’s journey +was to Musgee; an easy march of eight miles across an +undulating plain. At Musgee we found the two companies of +the 33d, two of the 10th Native Infantry, and the Sappers +and Miners, who constitute the pioneer force. They had just +come in, recalled from the hard and unprofitable labour in +the defile, and now prepared to set to work anew upon the +new route. They report the pass as a tremendous defile, +and say that the detachment of Scinde Horse have lost no +less than seven horses either from falls or from over-fatigue. +We were amused at the natives who came round, and absolutely +made fun of the soldiers for their unsuccessful attempts +at making roads in impassable places, when there +was a good road ready at hand. The head-quarters and the +other three companies of the 33d, and the company of the +Punjaub Pioneers, were near the other end of the defile, and +they had orders to push straight on to Attala, and begin to +improve the road from the other end. At Musgee we had +clear running water, which was really enjoyable after the +stagnant stuff we had been drinking at Antalo. On the +morning of the 13th Sir Robert Napier started with his staff +and an escort at seven o’clock. The rest of the force left at +ten precisely. The march was eight miles—a short distance +apparently; but when I state that a great number of the +animals did not arrive until eight in the evening, it will be +at once seen that it was very much harder work than it +appears at first sight. The first three or four miles of this +road, or rather track, led along the hill-side, and then as the +valley narrowed in, and its sides became very precipitous, it +kept along the bottom. There we crossed and recrossed a +little stream at least a dozen times; and much of the delay +<pb n="306"/><anchor id="Pg306"/>and confusion was caused by mules insisting upon stopping +to drink, and thereby of course bringing the whole line to a +stop. This part of the march was by far the prettiest and +most English we have seen out here. We were travelling in +a grove of trees, with a thick underwood, except just where +a path was cut wide enough for a single mule to pass. A +really good-sized streamlet of clear water wound here and +there, with quiet pools, and bright tumbling little cascades. +Under our feet was a cool greensward, over our heads a +shady screen of foliage. Imagine the charm of such a scene +to us, who, except in an occasional secluded dell, have +scarcely seen a tree, or felt shade, or heard the plash of +falling water for months. How we should have liked to +have halted, and to have enjoyed the turf and the shade for +an hour or two! All our attention was required, however, +for the work in hand, for in many places we had very rough +bits, and the wood-nymphs and dryads must have been sorely +startled at the shouting and tumult which arose in their quiet +shades. On each side of us the mountains rose to a great +height, crowned with perpendicular precipices, on one of +which, seemingly accessible only to a bird, was the stronghold +of some border chief. Presently the mountain sides receded +a little, and we emerged into a small plain. In the centre +of this ran the stream, and by its side were some very large +trees, which I can best describe by saying they resemble oaks +with willow-leaves. Here we encamped. +</p> + +<p> +The troops had taken four hours to do the eight miles; +but the commissariat animals, as I have stated, were more +than double that time upon the road. Both at Musgee and +here there is a great lack of grain for the animals. One +pound of grain was all they got yesterday, and to-day at +<pb n="307"/><anchor id="Pg307"/>twelve there is to be a similar large issue. If this sort of +thing continues, the animals must inevitably break down. +The drivers, after their day’s work was over, did go up into +the hills and cut some grass; but the coarse grass contains +very little nourishment, and the horses refuse to eat it. The +mules eat it, indeed, but it can do them very little good. I +have all along in my calculations of the probable duration of +the campaign argued that we must expect to come to places +where forage was not procurable, and that if we came to a +place where for four days’ marches we could get no grain +and but little grass, that we must come to a standstill and +form dépôts. Of course the difficulty will be proportionately +greater when we have the whole advance force, with its +thousands of cavalry-horses and baggage-animals with us. +We were to have started this morning at seven o’clock; but +a messenger arrived at two this morning with a letter from +the Commander-in-chief to General Staveley, saying that +the road was so bad that we must halt for a day to enable +the pioneer force to smooth some of the most impracticable +places. We have also news of the head-quarters and three +companies of the 33d who had pushed on by the <q>Phayre</q> +road to Attala. They had a distance of fourteen miles to go, +four of which they had comparatively cleared. They started +early, and they got in the following day at twelve o’clock, +having been twenty-eight hours on the road. The pioneer +force is hard at work upon the road ahead, and to-morrow +morning we start for Attala. It is stated to be an eight-mile +march; but I hear that the opinion of those who have gone on +is, that it is a good thirteen. At Attala I anticipate that we +shall wait some days-that is, if forage is obtainable. Everything +must now depend upon this vital point. We must +<pb n="308"/><anchor id="Pg308"/>push-on to some place where abundant forage can be obtained, +and we must then wait for the remainder of the force +to come up. This must entail a halt of some days, whenever +it is; for the 3d Dragoon Guards and the 12th Bengal +Cavalry were both some marches’ distance from Antalo when +we left, and they will, of course, have to make a halt of a +day or two at that place upon their advance, to rest their +animals. I hear that in the neighbourhood of Lât there +is plenty of forage; in that case Lât will probably be our +halting-place, if we find we cannot obtain sufficient grass and +grain at Attala. Sportsmen have been looking forward to +our arrival at Lake Ashangi, as game is likely to be abundant +in that neighbourhood, especially wild-fowl. We have +received a letter from Mr. Massinger, which shows that any +attempt at wild-fowl shooting either at early dawn or at dusk +is likely to be attended with some little danger. It is, he +says, very difficult, and even dangerous, to approach the +shores of the lake. They are very flat, and the whole surface +of the ground has been broken up into chasms and crevasses, +which are filled with soft mud, and are not easily distinguishable +from the surrounding soil. A long stick plunged into +the soft mud found no bottom, and a person falling into one +of these would, unless immediate assistance was at hand, be +inevitably lost. The natives say that these crevasses were all +formed by an earthquake which took place about three years +ago. Previous to that time the lake had an outlet through +which the overflow water made its way into the Tacazze. +This outlet is now stopped, and the water has risen and filled +all these chasms made by the earthquake. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> + +</div><div> +<pb n="309"/><anchor id="Pg309"/> +<index index="toc" level1="Mahkan, March 16th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Mahkan, March 16th"/> + +<dateline>Mahkan, March 16th.</dateline> + +<p> +My last letter was dated from the pretty camping-ground +bearing the scriptural denomination of Meshech. Thence to +Atzala was a march of thirteen miles. The road led up the +valley, as upon the previous day, for about six miles, and +then we had a long, but fortunately tolerably gradual, climb +up the saddle of the ridge. On the right of the summit of +the pass is the Amba of Waldo: it is considerably the highest +peak in the neighbourhood,—isolated, four-sided, and apparently +perpendicular. As far as we could see, there were no +walls or artificial defences. The huts which contain the garrison +are built on ledges upon the face of the rock. Ledge +is hardly the proper expression; for a ledge is a projection, +whereas the huts are built in deep scores which run round +the face. The rock overhead completely overhangs them; +so that they are to a certain extent sheltered from the wind, +which would, at an elevation of 12,000 feet above the sea, be +otherwise almost unbearable in such an exposed condition. +Waldo himself was at the top of the pass when we went +along. He is a man of about thirty-five, with a very intelligent +and pleasing face. A number of his warriors attended +him, and he was very much interested in our various uniforms +and appointments. He chatted for some time with General +Staveley, who fired-off his revolver for his edification. The +articles, however, that pleased him most were telescopes and +field-glasses, and he expressed a strong desire for one. He +was evidently acquainted with their use, for he shut one eye +and examined the country through my telescope with a nautical +air which would have done no discredit to the most +aspiring midshipman. The Commander-in-chief presented +<pb n="310"/><anchor id="Pg310"/>him with an excellent glass on the following day; and he +will now from his eyrie be able to see any advancing foe in +ample time to make his preparations for defence. +</p> + +<p> +The descent from the top of the pass was much steeper +and more severe than the ascent had been, and the train of +mules was a very long time making its way to the bottom. +Every animal that fell, every load which shifted, brought the +whole line to a standstill. However, patience and care will +effect wonders; and we got to the foot of the steep portion +without a casualty among the animals. +</p> + +<p> +At Attala, or Atzala, as I find it is more correctly spelt, +we found the Commander-in-chief encamped with the head-quarter +wing of the 33d and a small escort of Scinde Horse +and the 3d Native Cavalry. The Commander-in-chief intends, +I believe, in future to accompany the Pioneer Force, and to +judge for himself as to the capabilities of the roads, and to +direct the work to be done to make them passable by the +main body. Colonel Phayre will, however, still continue a +couple of days’ march ahead, with a small escort. Sir Robert +Napier gets through an immense quantity of work in the +course of a day; and the following order, which has been +lately issued, shows that he is unable to trust the political +business, such as it is, out of his own hands, but is compelled +to be his own political officer, as well as his own explorer: +<q>The Commander-in-chief directs that in future all reports +forwarded for his information by officers in the intelligence +department may be sent to the political secretary, through +the general or other officer commanding the division or post +in which they may be serving. In special cases, where a +more immediate communication to his Excellency may seem +expedient, reports may be sent direct; copies of them, +how<pb n="311"/><anchor id="Pg311"/>ever, being at once furnished to the officer’s immediate military +superior. All instructions for the guidance of officers in +the intelligence department will be sent to them by Captain +Tweedie, political secretary, who must be considered as the +sole officer authorised to convey to them his Excellency’s +commands.</q> +</p> + +<p> +Atzala is situated in an extensive basin, apparently surrounded +upon all sides by lofty hills. The abundance which +we found at Antalo still continues, and the commissariat are +able to purchase grain for the animals. I found upon my +arrival in camp that Sir Robert Napier intended to push on +at once with the Pioneer Force, leaving Sir Charles Staveley +to follow, with an interval of a day or two, to allow the road +to be improved. Sir Robert has also sent back for the light +guns of Twiss’s Mountain Train, and for the Naval Rocket +Brigade, both of which formed part of the 2d Brigade, according +to the published list. There are two explanations of +this order; the one being that he finds the roads so bad that +he thinks it will perhaps be impossible to bring the heavy +guns of Murray’s battery on without great loss of time; the +other theory is, that he is now convinced that we shall have +to fight at Magdala, and wishes to arrive there with as strong +a force of artillery as possible. The advices from Magdala +tell us that Theodore had received exact intelligence of our +whereabouts and rate of moving; and that whereas, believing +us to be nearer, he had decided upon waiting at Dalanta; +and he has now pushed on with the greatest energy, and +arrived with his guns and convoy quite close to Magdala. +This is, I think, the best news we could receive. Theodore +has evidently made up his mind to await us at any rate in +his fortress. He may fight, he may pretend friendship, and +<pb n="312"/><anchor id="Pg312"/>offer us the prisoners; but, at any rate, he will be there: +whereas, if he had not been able to reach Magdala, he might +have retired at our approach; and if he had ever taken to the +hills, our expedition would have been almost interminable: +once in Magdala, and surrounded, we are sure of him. Magdala +may be, and I believe is, very strong, and may hold +out for weeks; but we know that sooner or later we must +have it. I believe that the guns we have will be useless, +except for their moral effect upon the enemy. A shell thrown +on to the summit of a rock fortress when the garrison were +sheltered behind great boulders, or in caves or crevices, might +alarm them, but would probably do very little harm. Our +stock of missiles is very limited, and we shall probably have +to take the place at last by assault. If Magdala at all approaches +Waldo’s fortress in strength, an assault in the face +of some thousands of determined men, commanded by a desperate +chief like Theodore, will be no child’s-play even for +British troops. A few stones rolled down would sweep the +path of a whole line of stormers. A breastwork of great +boulders rolled into position from above would baffle the +bravest. People talk lightly of Magdala and its savage garrison; +but if they prove true to their king, it will prove as +hard a nut as British prowess ever had to crack. Officers +speaking to me upon the subject have argued Magdala is +probably not so strong as many of the hill-forts in India +which we have in our time taken. This is no doubt true; as +is the fact that the defenders of these hill-forts were as brave, +and were in addition much better armed than are the garrison +of Magdala. But, on the other hand, the defenders of +Indian hill-forts knew what British troops were; they knew +that our power was almost infinite; that we were the masters +<pb n="313"/><anchor id="Pg313"/>of all India; and that sooner or later we could accumulate +force enough to capture even the most seemingly impregnable +fortress. It was, they knew, a mere question of time with +us. However physically brave, the knowledge that final over-throw +is certain, will to a great extent paralyse the efforts of +any body of men. The reverse of all this is the case with +Theodore’s soldiers. They have never fought but to conquer; +they have a fanatical persuasion of the might of their leader, +and believe in his star; they have been always told that +Magdala is impregnable. For their enemies they have neither +fear nor reverence. The few white men they have seen have +been men of peace—missionaries and such-like—living but +by their sufferance, and now for years held in the degrading +position of captives. Theodore has impressed them with the +belief that we are a mere nation of traders, and that although +we manufacture good guns, and can use them at a distance, +yet that we are wanting in courage, and no match for his +men in a hand-to-hand fight. Doubtless, too, he will impress +upon them the fact that we cannot have brought a large +stock of ammunition for our guns across this long and difficult +route; and that therefore his men have only to keep +quiet and let us expend our missiles, and that then our power +of doing harm will be at an end. He has, too, promised that +they shall divide among themselves all our treasure and spoil; +and as by this time they have probably heard that we are +absolutely strewing the country with dollars, their idea of our +probable spoil must be something magnificent. +</p> + +<p> +However, the problem of war or peace will soon be solved. +At the rate at which we are now proceeding, another three +weeks will see us in front of Magdala. Indeed, if we continue +to press forward at the present rate, we should be at +<pb n="314"/><anchor id="Pg314"/>our journey’s end in a fortnight, or, rather, we should be +there if the whole of the mules did not die. To-day’s march +has been fifteen of the longest and heaviest miles ever traversed, +with scarcely a mile of level ground the whole distance. +The difficulty began at the very start, for we had +at once to climb a high and steep hill, and to descend at +once on the other side. So long a time did this occupy, +so many were the stoppages and breakdowns, that although +the first of the train started before seven, it was ten before +the last of the convoy of six hundred had even commenced +the ascent. The Commander-in-chief was not to start till +one o’clock, and a small party of mules would leave at that +time with his tent, &c. I therefore had, very fortunately as +it turned out, resolved not to start my animals until the same +time. After passing over the first hill, we came to another, +which was the highest we had yet come to, being two hundred +feet higher than the summit of the pass upon the preceding +day. The ascent, although very long, was not very +steep; indeed, all the hills we have crossed are much more +precipitous on the southern than on the northern side. Here +our difficulties commenced; for at the top of the hill were +numbers of the animals who had started five hours before +us. The descent was blocked up, and for ten minutes at a +time everyone was brought to a stand-still. Great was the +noise, tremendous the shouting in various languages. Once +upon the descent of the hill, everyone kept in single file; but +the confusion was greatest at the top, as everyone strove to +get his own animal first upon the track. Here were Beloochees, +Scinde Horse, Engineers, 33d men, and 3d Native +Cavalry, all trying to insinuate the animals of which they +were in charge into the straight line. Not unfrequently +<pb n="315"/><anchor id="Pg315"/>some unfair effort to interlope ended in well-merited punishment, +by one of the mules getting jammed between others, +and his load pulled back over his tail. At last we got our +animals fairly on to the descent, which was very steep and +winding, and then there was nothing for it but patience. +With our own animals we had no trouble, for we had long +ago found out that although a string of four animals goes +well enough along a plain, the only way to get them down +steep places, or over very rough ground, is to unfasten them, +and to make a servant go to each mule’s head. In this way, +if the loads are properly packed upon Otago saddles, they +will go anywhere; the mules can pick their way without +being hurried, and the loads will not shift; whereas the government +mules, being fastened three or four in a string, +under the charge of a single driver, are continually coming +to grief. The leading mule steps over stones or down steep +places with comparative ease, and when on level ground +steps boldly forward; while the unfortunate animals behind +him, who are still on the difficult ground, are unable to pick +their way, their heads are pulled into the air, they hang back +and vainly resist, and either lie down at once, or are pulled +off their legs. The present state of the Bombay saddles assists +to aggravate the evil. The leather loops which were attached +to them, and through which the ropes which fastened the +baggage passed, are now in a majority of cases torn off, and +the consequence is, that the load at once slips forwards or +backwards immediately the animal gets upon an incline, and +the saddle remains on the back, while the load rolls off. The +mountain-side was thickly covered with shrubs; and as we +went down in a long confused line, with the baggage-guard +scattered at intervals along it, most of the men being +in<pb n="316"/><anchor id="Pg316"/>cessantly employed in repacking the loads, with their arms +piled near them while they did so, one could not but reflect that +we shall have to travel in a very different fashion when we +approach Magdala. Two or three hundred men, armed only +with spears, concealed among the bushes, and rushing out +at a given signal, could have annihilated the whole convoy +before a bayonet could have been fixed or the slightest resistance +offered. I believe that it is settled that we shall take +no tents forward with us for the last three or four days’ +marches; and this, with the fact that a comparatively small +number of mules will be required for the commissariat stores, +will diminish our train to one-fourth of the present size. If +Theodore has made up his mind to fight, there is little doubt +that he will begin while we are in the passes. He has always +been famous for his night-attacks, and we have been especially +warned to beware of sudden attacks. The King of +Tigre was very impressive on this score. Waldo, the other +day, also warned us most earnestly to be upon our guard +night and day. We had a turn-out of the troops this morning +at Atzala. It took place at about ten in the morning, +and was for a few minutes quite an exciting affair. With +the exception only of Sir Charles Staveley and a few of his +personal staff, no one knew whether it was a real alarm or +not. We were now in the Gallas country, where we had +been told to expect raids, and it was quite possible that the +convoy, the rear of which was still mounting the hill, had +been suddenly attacked. When, therefore, the first bugle +sounded the alarm, and after a pause sounded again and +again, quite a thrill ran through the camp. All the regimental +bugles repeated the calls, and the camp presented +the appearance of an ant-hive suddenly disturbed. The men +<pb n="317"/><anchor id="Pg317"/>tumbled out from their tents in hot haste, buttoning-up their +tunics and buckling-up their belts; the cooks and butchers +left the half-cut-up carcasses, to run to their tents for their +arms and accoutrements; officers shouted for their swords; +the men who were out for wood or water came scampering +up; the mule-drivers rapidly drove in the animals which were +grazing on the plains; the dhoolie-bearers mustered round +the palkees; the grasscutters buckled on swords of various +descriptions; and I observed my servant busily engaged in +loading a great double-barrelled pistol. The result showed +that an enemy must manage to creep up very close before +being observed, to catch us unawares. In two minutes and +a half from the first bugle, the 4th were drawn up in close +order in front of their lines, and being joined by the Beloochees, +marched off, throwing out skirmishers before them. +In another five minutes the Mountain Artillery were in motion, +and the 3d Native Cavalry, who had, when the alarm +sounded, been in their native undress, had dressed, saddled, +and were dashing across the plain. A little in rear of the +infantry the dhoolie-bearers were staggering along with their +palkees, and an apothecary was in full chase with an armful +of splints and bandages. It is evident that we shall not be +caught asleep. Alarms of this sort do good occasionally, but +should not be too often repeated, or the men get so accustomed +to the cry of <q>Wolf!</q> that they will not believe it +when the real animal makes his appearance. +</p> + +<p> +But I am leaving myself and my mules an unconscionable +time upon the hill; scarcely, however, so long as I was there +in reality, for it was getting dusk when I reached the foot, +just three hours after my arrival at the top. There was no +camp in sight, and, although we knew it was still six miles +<pb n="318"/><anchor id="Pg318"/>distant, we were ignorant of the direction in which it lay. +Fortunately, none of the loads had shifted, and we were +thus enabled to push past great numbers of animals who +were standing with their loads upon the ground beside them. +It was a very weary and unpleasant six-miles’ march. There +was no moon, and it soon became extremely dark; and as +the way was a mere track, we were quite ignorant whether +we were going in the right direction or not. Of course we +followed mules in front of us, but there was no knowing +whether they were going right—for a mule stopping for a +minute, for a readjustment of the load, would lose sight of +the one in advance, and would be just as likely as not to go +in the wrong direction, and inevitably be followed by all in +his rear. The way was across an undulating plain, with +many deep nullahs covered with trees, and so dark that we +could not see our horses’ ears. There was very little shouting +now; everyone rode or walked along in a sort of sulky +silence; the pace was of the slowest, the mules being scarcely +able to crawl along. We could not pick our way, for we +could not see the ground. Some got off and led their horses, +others trusted to their horses’ eyes, and it was astonishing +how well the animals picked their way; still there were some +awkward falls. Even if one escaped these greater dangers, +it was not pleasant to be caught by a bramble suddenly between +the eyes, or to be nearly borne over the crupper of the +horse by a stiff bough under the chin. At last, just when +we had arrived at the conclusion that we must have missed +our road, and that it would be better to draw off the way and +pitch our tent until daybreak, we saw the camp-lights in the +distance, and, after another mile’s travelling, arrived here, +as I began this letter by saying, at half-past nine o’clock. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> + </div><div> +<pb n="319"/><anchor id="Pg319"/> +<index index="toc" level1="Ashangi Lake, March 19th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Ashangi Lake, March 19th"/> + +<dateline>Ashangi Lake, March 19th.</dateline> + +<p> +I finished my last letter on the night of my arrival at +Mahkan, very tired, very hungry, and a good deal out of +temper. We halted at Mahkan on the 17th, as the animals +imperatively needed a day’s rest. There can be no question +that these very long marches are a mistake in every way. +Many of the animals which started at seven in the morning +did not get in until ten or eleven o’clock next day; and +fatigue of this sort, together with an almost starvation diet, +is too much for any animals. The number which actually +died upon the road was very small—only three or four, I am +told; but then the animals have had a rest at Antalo, and +have still some little strength left. I have no hesitation, however, +in saying that three or four such marches as this would +find the great majority of the transport-train animals <hi rend="italic">hors de +combat</hi>. It is terribly fatiguing too for the troops. Nor is +anything gained by it. The old proverb, <q>the more haste +the less speed,</q> is amply verified. We did fifteen miles, and +then had to halt a day; whereas had we halted at a spring +at the foot of the steep descent, six miles from Mahkan, the +animals could have easily marched some miles beyond Mahkan +on the following day. Fifteen miles over a flat country is +one thing, fifteen miles over a succession of mountains, with +a rifle, sixty rounds of ammunition, and etceteras, is quite +another; and I sincerely trust that we shall not again attempt +such a tremendous march as this. +</p> + +<p> +The mule-train is at present all that can be desired. The +number of animals attached to the advanced division is 8000, +and comprises the Lahore mule-train, the Raul Pindee +mule-<pb n="320"/><anchor id="Pg320"/>train, and the A and D divisions of the transport-train. I +have had occasion more than once to speak of the efficiency +of the Lahore and Pindee trains, which arrived from Bengal +in the most perfect order, and which, being marched straight +to Senafe, did not share in the general disruption at Zulla. +The A division, under Captain Griffiths, I have also spoken +of, as being in excellent condition. This is the division which +went up with the exploring party to Senafe, and staying there, +partially escaped the crash. The D division is commanded +by Captain Twentyman; an officer whose energy and devotedness +at Zulla during the worst times helped to pull the transport-train +through its greatest difficulties, as I had the pleasure +of testifying at the time. These four divisions are under +the control of Captain Hand, of the Lahore mule-train, who +has been appointed their director. He is an able and energetic +officer, and his management of the train gives the highest +satisfaction. The transport-train authorities at Zulla have +nothing whatever to do with the advanced portion, which is +under the sole orders of Captain Hand. +</p> + +<p> +On the morning after our arrival at Mahkan the wing of +the 33d was sent on to make the road, the head-quarter camp +remaining with only the escort of the 2d Horse and 3d Cavalry. +In the afternoon, however, a party of Beloochees and +Punjaub Pioneers came in. During the day a man came in +with one of the curious lozenge-shaped guitars I have already +described, and kept up a monotonous chanting for some time. +The words Magdala and Tèdros were the only words generally +recognised; and it was supposed that he was singing some +song he had composed in our honour. An interpreter, however, +who happened to come up, undeceived us by explaining +that the singer, relying upon our ignorance of the language, +<pb n="321"/><anchor id="Pg321"/>was reciting our certain defeat, and the vengeance that Theodore +would take upon us. I have no fear of the man turning +out a true prophet; but it is certain that the people of the +country generally look upon our chance of victory over Theodore +as being a very poor one indeed. Yesterday morning +we started at eight o’clock on our march to this place, and, +owing to the 33d having gone on, our baggage-train was +much smaller, and the difficulties and delays proportionately +less. We found, upon mounting the first hill, that we had +come on an entirely new and agreeable phase of Abyssinian +scenery. Instead of the bare hills and plains over which, interspersed +with wooded valleys, we had journeyed since we +entered Abyssinia, we were transported at one bound into the +very heart of Switzerland. Everywhere to the very mountain-tops +was a pine-forest. In some places the trees grew +closely together, with a thick underwood, which shut-in the +path on both sides, and through which the road had been partially +cleared by the 33d. At other times the trees were more +thinly scattered about, or stood in clumps, affording every +variety of park-like scenery. It was a delightful ride for +about six miles through these, the road being smooth and +easy. At the end of that time our difficulties began, the way +lying over and along steep and very rocky hills covered with +forest and brushwood. The General had expected to have +found the road to a certain extent cleared by the 33d, but +owing to an error, for which Major Cooper was in no way to +blame, they had scarcely begun their work when we passed, +instead of having been engaged upon it for twenty-four hours. +Their orders had been to encamp at a stream five miles on +from Mahkan, and then to set to work upon the road; and +as they had started twenty-four hours before ourselves, it was +<pb n="322"/><anchor id="Pg322"/>anticipated that the road would be perfectly practicable for +mules by the next day. The 33d were, however, furnished +with no guide, and the spring was not visible from the line of +march; consequently they marched past it, and did not find +out their error until they were miles ahead. Major Cooper +then determined upon the best course to be pursued, namely, +to march straight on to this station, to encamp there, and to +march his men back at daybreak to work upon the road. +They had done a good deal when we arrived; but of course +the mules stopped their work for a time. In some places the +track was very bad; and at one of these, a rocky wall along +a ledge, on the face of which we had to pass, I found Sir +Robert Napier himself engaged in planning another road to +avoid this obstacle, which was dangerous in a high degree for +loaded animals, as the projecting load nearly pushed each one +over the edge. No accident, so far as I heard, occurred, and +the delays were nothing like so long or tedious as those we +had incurred on many previous occasions, while the delightful +shade, the songs of <anchor id="corr322"/><corr sic="innumnerable">innumerable</corr> birds, and the fresh odour of +the pine-trees rendered these halts most enjoyable. At last +we reached the summit of the last ascent, and below us, at a +distance of five miles, lay Lake Ashangi, a pretty sheet of +water of about three miles in diameter. Its shores are in +some places quite flat, but in others hills come down with +gradual slopes to its very edge. Looking at England for an +illustration, I should say that, except in being smaller, it more +resembles Ulleswater than any of our other north-country +lakes. +</p> + +<p> +Beyond the lake several mountain-ranges rise one beyond +another, and offer no prospect of easy journeys for some time +to come. Our camp is pitched half a mile from the lake +<pb n="323"/><anchor id="Pg323"/>upon ground which slopes gradually down to the water’s +edge, above the level of which we are probably elevated +thirty feet. The lake and its shores swarm with ducks and +geese. The latter are very tame, and walk about to graze in +the most unconcerned manner. A great many have been +shot, and are, although rather fishy, fair eating. The great +difficulty attending the sport is the exceedingly boggy nature +of the ground. The fissures spoken of by Mr. Munzinger, +and which I mentioned in my last upon the authority of his +letters, are simply nonsense. It is a large and in some +places a dangerous bog; but it is simply and purely a bog, +and nothing else. I was out yesterday with my gun, as were +a dozen others, and although I went in above my boots, I +came upon nothing really impassable, nor, with one exception, +did I hear of any one else doing so. Captain Hogg, +however, of the quartermaster’s department, got upon a very +bad part of the bog, and was some time finding his way out; +indeed, he fell into one deep place, where he would unquestionably +have lost his life had he not had a man with him, +who was able to put the end of his gun within reach of +Captain Hogg’s hand, and so draw him out of the quagmire, +into which he was sinking fast. All round the level shore of +the lake, a belt of white mud of sixty or seventy yards wide +extends. Upon this the game congregate, and are safe from +the sportsmen, as the mud will not support a man’s weight, +and the dead birds could not be recovered. The geese in +plumage more resemble ducks than geese, being dark brown +and green, with a large white patch upon the under part of +the wing, and which only shows during their flight. A good +many escape, who would fall victims to large shot; but the +amount of ammunition in camp is scanty, and the shot +gene<pb n="324"/><anchor id="Pg324"/>rally of small sizes, which merely rattle against a goose’s +feather at a distance of fifty yards. +</p> + +<p> +To-day we have remained here quietly. Another durbar +has taken place; the ambassador, or nuncio—the latter, I +suppose, being the appropriate word—having come in from +the chief Ulem of the Gallas tribes. This man has immense +influence with the Gallas, who are Mahommedans; and it +was therefore a matter of great importance to conciliate +him as far as possible. I have already described two of +these official receptions, and as this was precisely similar to +those I have before written about, I need not enter into particulars. +The only variety was, that the proceedings opened +with a long letter from the Ulem to Sir Robert Napier. It +was of a most friendly character, and expressed the priest’s +concurrence in the <q>belief which we hold in common, +namely,</q> he said, <q>the Old and New Testament, and the +Koran.</q> I was not aware that the Koran was an essential +part of our creed, but I have learnt something from the +Ulem’s letter. Later on, too, he speaks of Mahomet as the +only true mediator. These, however, were not, apparently, +according to the Ulem’s view, points of vital difference, and +he accordingly states that he prays unceasingly in our behalf, +which is, at any rate, kind on his part. He warned us very +solemnly to be extremely watchful and ever upon our guard, +and the general tone of his letter was anything but hopeful. +He mentioned that it was the custom of the country to send +presents to travellers, and that he therefore sent the chief a +present, but that the greatest present he could give us would +be his prayers. One thing is certain, if his prayers are not +of vastly greater value than his other present, they will not be +of any great worth, for the material present was a pot of +<pb n="325"/><anchor id="Pg325"/>honey, value one dollar. The chief of course replied civilly, +expressed our toleration of all religions and opinions, and +that we had many Mussulmans in our ranks, and stated our +friendly feelings towards the people of the country. He +wound up by giving presents of robes, &c., for the priests. +These robes were put upon the ambassador, who is a son of +the Ulem, and one of the most inane-looking young men I +have seen in Abyssinia. His face, as he was being invested +in the robes, was one of the most comic things I ever saw, +and the officers present had the greatest difficulty in restraining +their gravity. He looked exactly like a baboon +affecting humility. Later in the afternoon another chief +came in, preceded by tom-tom and flutes, and accompanied +by a considerable body of warriors. A remarkable thing +which I noticed then, and which I had not before seen, was +that they carried headless lances, in token of amity. +</p> + +<p> +We had rather a curious scene this afternoon. A native +was detected in the act of thieving, and was sentenced by +Colonel Fraser, who acts as provost-marshal, to two dozen +lashes. His friends and relatives, however, made so great a +howling that the Commander-in-chief came out of his tent to +see what was the matter. Finding that the natives took the +matter greatly to heart, he gave the man over to be punished +by themselves; and after a palaver of an hour, he was sentenced +to pay one quarter of the value of the article stolen, +or to receive six blows with a stick. Mr. Speedy was about +to remonstrate with them upon the insufficiency of the punishment, +when the chief who had acted as judge drew him +aside, and stated that in the course of the examination they +had found that the offender was a Christian, whereas they +were themselves Mussulmans; and that if they were to punish +<pb n="326"/><anchor id="Pg326"/>him as he deserved, it would cause a war. Throughout +Abyssinia,—that is, as far as we have travelled,—even where +Christians are in the majority, the Mahommedans look down +upon them; and there is no doubt that in a moral point of +view the Mahommedans are greatly the superior. Christianity +certainly does not work well among natives. Both in India +and here a Christian is by no means a man of high standing +either in respectability or morality. It is singular that the +abodes of the natives here are precisely similar to those at +Zulla. There they were built of wattles, with conical thatched +roofs. Since that time we have passed mud huts with flat +roofs, stone huts with flat roofs, stone huts with thatched +roofs, and now we have again come upon the Zulla type of +cottages, wattled walls with conical thatched roofs. The +villages are always perched upon eminences, and the houses +are crowded together and surrounded by a thick fence of +boughs, with the ends outwards like a military abattis. The +natives are not quite so dark as the people of Tigre, and are +not so well armed, for I have not seen any fire-arms among +them. Sir Charles Staveley has, I hear, arrived at Mahkan, +with the 4th, the 3d Native Cavalry, and Penn’s battery. He, +like ourselves, is engaged in road-making. The orders are, +that the pioneer force are to make the road practicable for +mules, and that General Staveley’s force is to make it practicable +for elephants. As elephants can go almost everywhere +that mules are able to do, he will not be long delayed, and +will probably arrive at Lât, which is two days’ march forward, +within a day or two of ourselves. It is probable that +we shall halt two or three days there, to allow the force to +concentrate. I hear that Twiss’s Mountain Train and the +Naval Rocket Brigade are only a march behind General +<pb n="327"/><anchor id="Pg327"/>Staveley, and will arrive with him at Lât. I have seen to-night +that the 45th has also been ordered to come on at once, +to form part of the first division. This order will not only +give satisfaction to the regiment itself, but also to us all; for +the 45th is said to be one of the best and most efficient regiments +in India. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Lât, March 21st"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Lat, March 21st"/> + +<dateline>Lât, March 21st.</dateline> + +<p> +We had all looked forward to a halt at this place for at +least two or three days. This hope, however, has not been +realised; for we arrived this afternoon, and start again to-morrow +morning, at which time our real hardships may be +said to commence in earnest. But it is better, before I enter +upon this, to relate our doings of the last two days. +</p> + +<p> +Leaving our camp near Ashangi, the road ran on level +ground parallel to the lake for a mile or so, and then, the +mountains approaching to the edge of the water, we had to +climb over the spur. The height was not very great, but it +was one of the roughest, and certainly the steepest climb we +have yet had. Once on the crest, the hill sloped gradually +down, and we presently came upon the water again near +the head of the lake. This spot was the next day the scene +of a fatal accident. Two or three officers came down to +shoot, and one of the birds fell into the water. One of +their servants, who was a good swimmer, at once went in to +fetch it out. It is probable that he was seized with cramp, +for he sank suddenly. Captain Pottinger at once jumped in, +and swam out to the spot, but was unable to see anything of +him. Our camping-ground was about two miles distant from +<pb n="328"/><anchor id="Pg328"/>the head of the lake, upon flat ground. The distance from +Ashangi was little over six miles. +</p> + +<p> +We halted here the next day in order to let General Staveley’s +Brigade reach Ashangi. This they did upon the day +after we had left it. There was considerable regret in camp +to hear that General Staveley himself, who had been attacked +at Atzala with acute rheumatism, was very much worse, and +had been carried in a palkee. He had entirely lost the use +of his limbs, and it was considered improbable that he would +be able to come on farther with the army. This would be a +very great loss for the expedition, and I sincerely hope that +their apprehensions will not be verified. +</p> + +<p> +The morning of our halt, a general order was promulgated +which filled us with consternation. No baggage whatever is +to be henceforward allowed either for men or officers. Soldiers +are to carry their greatcoat, a blanket, and waterproof sheet, +in addition to their rifle, ammunition, havresack, &c. This +will bring the weight to be carried by each man up to fifty-five +pounds; an overwhelming weight over such a tremendous +country as that which we have to traverse, and beneath a tropical +sun. I question very much whether the men will be able +to stand it, and several of the medical staff to whom I have +spoken are quite of that opinion. What the roads are likely +to be, is manifest enough by a portion of the general order, +which says that in future no mule is to carry over 100 +pounds; and yet the authorities put more than half that +weight upon a man’s shoulders. It is not even as if the +men had their knapsacks, in which the greatcoat, &c. could +be packed, and carried with comparative ease; they will +have to be slung over the shoulders by the coat-arms, and will +distress the soldier far more than they would have done if +<pb n="329"/><anchor id="Pg329"/>carried in knapsacks. It was an extraordinary oversight +leaving the knapsacks behind at Antalo; for it was evident +even then that they would be required. Unmounted officers +are to have a greatcoat, blanket, and waterproof-sheet carried +for them, and mounted officers may carry what they can put +upon their horses. No baggage-animals whatever are to go +forward with luggage. The men are to be packed twenty in +a bell tent, and twelve officers are to have the same accommodation. +More than a fourth part of the soldiers are out on +picket and guard every night; therefore the number of men +in each tent will be practically about the same as the officers. +Fancy twelve officers in a tent! They will be packed like +herrings in a tub; and men are calculating to-day how many +square inches of ground each will possess. Everyone takes +it good-humouredly, and there is no grumbling whatever; +but for all that, it is rather a serious business. If it were for +two or three days, it would be all well enough; but Magdala +is a considerable distance from here. The Quartermaster-general’s +department talk about a six days’ march. Captain +Speedy says that sixteen is very much nearer the mark; and +as he has a knowledge of the country, while the Quartermaster’s +department have uniformly been wrong in their +distances, it is safe to assume that it is a fifteen days’ march; +that is to say, even without allowing a day for the capture +of Magdala, or for arranging matters there, we cannot be +back to Lât under a month. There is some talk of the baggage +coming up after us; but this will certainly not come to +anything. I know that we have barely animals enough with +us to carry our food, and every available mule in the rear is +coming on with Staveley’s Brigade. We may, then, calculate +with tolerable certainty that we shall not get any of our +bag<pb n="330"/><anchor id="Pg330"/>gage until we return to Lât, which, at the very earliest, will +be a month hence, and not improbably twice that time. We +are told that the cold at night is very great on ahead, and +that the rains are heavy and frequent. It is therefore a very +serious matter for men to start without a single change of +clothes of any kind. Putting aside the rain, the men will +suffer so greatly from the heat, and from the labour of climbing +mountains with so heavy a load upon their backs, that it +would be a most material matter for them to have at any rate +a dry flannel-shirt to put on when the cold evening wind +begins to blow. Time will show how the men stand it; but it +is certainly a hazardous experiment. +</p> + +<p> +This morning we started for this place. Lât has always +been spoken of as a place where we should halt and form a +dépôt, and we had therefore expected to have found a large +village; but as far as I have seen, there is not a native hut in +the neighbourhood. Upon leaving our last camping-ground, +we ascended a lofty and steep hill, and then had to wind for +a long distance upon a rocky ledge, where a false step would +have been certain death. After several minor rises and descents, +we came down to the valley in which the stream, near +which we are encamped, runs. Although there are no villages +in sight, there must be a considerable native population in the +neighbourhood, for a large number of natives have come in +with supplies. The officers of the transport-train are buying +every sword and spear brought in, for the use of the muleteers; +as, although Theodore is reported at Magdala, he might at +any moment make a sudden march down with a few thousand +men, and might be upon us before we knew that he +was within fifty miles’ distance. Should we be attacked in +one of these gorges, or on a narrow ledge with a precipice +<pb n="331"/><anchor id="Pg331"/>below, scattered as we should necessarily be over an immense +length of road, Theodore might, by a sudden attack +upon our baggage, do such damage in a few minutes, that +we might be obliged to retire to Antalo, to fetch up fresh +supplies. There is no disguising the fact, that in making our +rush from such a long distance we are running no inconsiderable +risk. +</p> + +<p> +Sir Robert Napier’s original plan was to have formed a +dépôt with five months’ provisions at some place about half-way +between Antalo and Magdala, and to have marched forward +from that place with two months’ provisions. Instead +of this we are starting from Lât with only fifteen days’ provisions, +and there is no dépôt of any importance, nor will +there be, nearer than Antalo itself. The whole of the available +mules will accompany the advancing division, and we shall +have to depend entirely for future supplies upon the native +carriage. The stock of food we have with us will barely last +us to Magdala; we know not whether we shall be able to +purchase any flour on the way, or how we may fare for forage +for our animals. Between Antalo and Magdala are many +tribes and chiefs,—we have already passed Waldo Yasus and +the Gallas,—and some of these, after we have passed, may +take it into their heads to stop the native animals going up +with stores; and the whole of the system upon which we have +solely to depend would then break down, and our position +would be as precarious a one as it is possible to imagine. It +is indeed a tremendous risk to run; but then we are playing +for a very high stake. We are running a race with the rains. +If we were to stop here for a fortnight or three weeks, and to +send the whole of the transport animals down to Antalo to +fetch up more provisions, we should infallibly have to wait +<pb n="332"/><anchor id="Pg332"/>out here over the rainy season; and the difficulties of provisioning +the force during that period, and the probable mortality +which might ensue, would be so great that Sir Robert +Napier no doubt considers himself justified in running a very +considerable risk in order to reach the sea-coast before the +rains. Of course the matter has been discussed and talked +over in every light among the officers; and the general opinion +is, that unless we obtain an unlooked-for supply, as we did +at Antalo, somewhere between this and Magdala, our position +will be a very critical one. With most other generals, +men would, I think, be inclined to take rather a gloomy view +of it; but everyone has such confidence in Sir Robert Napier +that they are quite content to leave matters in his hands. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Dildee, March 24th"/> + <index index="toc" level1="Dildee, March 24th"/> + +<dateline>Dildee, March 24th.</dateline> + +<p> +I sent off a very hurriedly-written letter two days since +from Lât. In these two days we have crossed thirty-one miles +of as rough a country as the warmest admirer of the desolate +and savage could wish to see. Around us, as far as the eye +could reach, was stretched a perfect sea of mountains; and +up and down these we have tumbled and stumbled—not a +few horses getting tremendous falls—from morning until +long after nightfall. It has been one long monotonous toil. +Sometimes we climb upon smooth slippery rock; then we +ascend steep paths covered with loose boulders of every size; +then we are upon a narrow ledge on a mountain’s face; then +we are crashing through thick bushes. One can no longer +keep count of the number of ravines we cross, for we climb +a dozen hills a day. It would puzzle even the engineers of +the Topographical Department to lay down this rugged and +<pb n="333"/><anchor id="Pg333"/>broken country in a map. It would be as easy to make a +map of the Straits of Dover, and to draw each wave to its +proper scale. The toil of the troops during these two days +has been tremendous. The first day’s march was thirteen +miles; yesterday’s was eighteen,—many say it was twenty; +but I think a long eighteen was about the mark. Eighteen +miles would be a long march in England, but here it is a +tremendous journey. Each man is carrying with him ammunition, +&c.—fifty-five pounds—more than half a mule-load. +In addition to this, most of the troops are now upon baggage-guard, +and have to assist in constantly adjusting loads and +looking after the mules. Lastly, a fourth of the troops are +out every night upon picket. I had occasion, in a letter +written from Mahkan, to speak upon the cruel over-marching +of men and animals; but that was nothing to these two days’ +marches. The country now is much rougher, the distances +longer, and the men have in addition to carry their kits. The +troops came in last night in a prostrate state; very many +did not come in at all. I should say that not more than half +the baggage arrived until this morning; and to add to the +other disagreeables, we had a tremendous thunderstorm about +eight o’clock, which wetted every soul, except the very few +who had been fortunate enough to get up their tents, to the +skin. The men have no change of clothes with them, and of +course had to sleep in their wet clothes. Of those who were +on the road when the rain began, some held on and came +straggling in up to ten o’clock; the greater number, however, +unrolled their blanket and waterproof-sheet, and lay +down where they were for the night. I say fearlessly that +such a march over such a country was never before made by +similarly-weighted men. Of course we have to halt to-day, +<pb n="334"/><anchor id="Pg334"/>and then by to-night we shall have progressed a less distance +towards Magdala than we should have done had we made +three days’ marches of, say, eleven miles each. Nor is there +any reason why we should not have done so. We are fortunately +now in a well-watered country. Good-sized streams +run between each of the higher ranges, and we crossed four +or five of them yesterday. +</p> + +<p> +General Staveley, who I am glad to hear is better, is only +one day in our rear. An officer has gone back this morning +to direct him to halt to-night at the stream three and a half +miles behind. The weather has been warmer for the last two +days, and this has of course increased the labour of the soldiers. +Had it not been for the frequent occurrence of water, +I do not think that one quarter of the troops would have +got in last night. Yesterday’s camp was admirably chosen +for defensive purposes, being surrounded on all sides by a +deep nullah. To-day’s camp is convenient, and is also defended +on one side by a nullah, but has the disadvantage +that the nullah is two hundred feet deep, and is extremely +precipitous, the water being only accessible even on foot at +two places, and consequently the difficulty of watering the +animals is very great. The water, however, and indeed all +that we have met with for the last day or two, is delicious. +This is indeed a treat. Hitherto the water has been singularly +nasty—thick and full of insects when stagnant, earthy +and bad-tasting when running. Here it is fresh, clear, and +pure. Rum is quite at a discount. The ravine through +which the stream runs is very picturesque. The slope is +steep, but well-wooded down to the bottom of the nullah; +but the stream itself has cut a way from twenty to thirty +feet wide through the solid rock at the bottom. The sides +<pb n="335"/><anchor id="Pg335"/>are as perpendicular as walls, and are in some places +thirty feet deep. It is only, as I have said, at two points +that we can get down to the water. This narrow gorge is +overhung with trees, and in every cranny and on every tiny +ledge grow lovely patches of green ferns. It requires no +stretch of fancy to imagine oneself by the side of a pretty +mountain-stream in Wales or Ireland. The vegetation is too +bright and varied for a Highland stream. Nearly every +officer in camp, and a good number of the men, have been +down this morning for a bathe, which is doubly refreshing +after the fatigue of yesterday and the paucity of our present +washing appliances. The camp yesterday morning presented +quite an unusual appearance. The head-quarter camp had +shrivelled in dimensions from twenty tents down to four; and +outside of them, soon after daybreak, the whole staff might +be seen engaged in the various processes of washing and +dressing. Twelve men may manage to sleep in a tent, but +it is quite impossible that they can simultaneously dress there. +Not, indeed, that any of the tents contained their full complement. +Some had slung their blankets like hammocks upon +the trees; others were content to roll themselves in their +rugs, and sleep upon a waterproof-sheet under a bush; and +besides this there was a hospital-tent, and as there are no +sick, some of the officers were drafted off into this. Indeed, +all might have been very much more comfortable, had those +of their number who, like ourselves, have brought <hi rend="italic">tentes +d’abri</hi>, been allowed to carry them on their horses. I was +very fortunate in getting into shelter before the storm came +on last night. I had ridden on before my spare horse, which, +with my tent and etceteras upon his back, was nearly at the +rear of the column. I arrived here about half-past four, +<pb n="336"/><anchor id="Pg336"/>having been nearly nine hours upon the road; and I was +fairly exhausted when I got in from fatigue and want of food. +Fortunately, however, the natives had brought in bread for +sale, and after eating some of this, and going down to the +nullah for a bathe, I was quite restored again. I was not, +however, comfortable in my mind; for the clouds had been +banking-up fast, and the thunder had been almost incessant +in the hills for the last two hours. I could see by the baggage +which was coming in, that my animal could not, if he +kept his place in the line, be in for hours, if at all. When +I got up to the camp, I was delighted to see my little tent +pitched. My companion, who had been behind me, had, +finding that the road was badly blocked, got them along by +other paths, fortunately without more damage than one of the +horses falling over a precipice twelve or thirteen feet high, +into some bushes, which broke the animal’s fall. The horse +was but little hurt; and with this slight mishap, which is +nothing here, where horses and mules are constantly rolling +over steep places, he had succeeded in getting into camp +three or four hours before the animals could have possibly +reached it, had they kept in their original place in the line; +indeed it was most improbable that they could have got in +last night at all. The lightning during the next half-hour +was incessant, and before the dinner could be cooked, great +drops began to patter down. We shouted to the servants to +do the best they could for themselves with their blankets and +waterproof-sheets, while we took refuge in our little tent, +with an officer whose baggage, like that of the great majority, +had not arrived. In a minute or two, it came down almost in +a sheet. We lit our pipes, and consoled ourselves that if we +had nothing to eat, we were no worse off than anyone else, +<pb n="337"/><anchor id="Pg337"/>whereas we were in shelter, while hardly another soul was so. +While thus philosophising to our own contentment, the front +of the tent was suddenly opened, and a hand was thrust in +with a dish of cutlets, then plates and knives and forks. +Our fellows had nobly stuck to their work, preferring to get +drenched to the skin rather than that their masters should +go without dinner. These Goa-men are certainly excellent +servants. They are not physically strong: they are quiet, +weakly-looking men, with little energy and no habitude to +hardships. They make capital hotel-waiters, but could scarcely +have been expected to have supported the fatigue of a campaign +like this. They do so, however, and seem none the +worse for it. Altogether they are worth any money upon +an expedition of this sort, and are infinitely more serviceable +than an English servant would be. +</p> + +<p> +The storm ceased last night at about half-past ten. It +is now thundering among the distant hills, and it is evident +that we shall have, this afternoon, a repetition of last night’s +storm. It will, however, find us better prepared to withstand +it. The natives are bringing in an abundance of goods of all +kinds. Honey, grain, onions, goats, sheep, fowls, bread, and +eggs. The fowls and eggs are the first we have seen since +Attegrat. Prices rule about the same. Two little fowls, a +dollar; twelve eggs—about half of which average bad—at +the same price. A bottle of honey, a dollar, &c. Dear as +things are, it is unnecessary to say that they are all eagerly +bought up. We are accustomed to high prices now; and I +heard a soldier, who did not get in until this morning, say +that he paid a dollar in the night for a drink of water. +</p> + +<p> +Of course we have now a constant succession of news from +the front. It is very contradictory, but the general report is +<pb n="338"/><anchor id="Pg338"/>that Theodore is marching towards Dalanta, to attack us on +our way. Some of the spies assert that two o’clock on Friday +night is the hour fixed for our destruction. If Theodore +does mean, as is likely enough, to make a night attack, I do +not think he would be weak enough to let it be known many +hours beforehand as to where it will take place. However, +it is no use offering any speculation now upon events which +we may see determined in two or three days, and the result +of which will be known by telegraph long before this letter +can reach London. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Santarai, March 29th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Santarai, March 29th"/> + +<dateline>Santarai, March 29th.</dateline> + +<p> +We are beginning to believe Magdala to be a <hi rend="italic">fata morgana</hi>, +an <hi rend="italic">ignis fatuus</hi>, which gets more and more distant the +nearer we approach it. At Dildee we were told that it was +only four marches distant. We have made three marches, +and have sixty more miles to go; and yet Magdala is not +more than twenty-five miles in a straight line, and is visible +from a point four miles distant from this camp. It is found, +however, that the country is perfectly impracticable, and that +we must take a detour of sixty miles to get there. I can +hardly imagine what this country in a direct line to Magdala +can be like, for we have passed over hundreds of miles which +no one would have imagined it possible for an army with its +baggage-animals to surmount. We have scaled mountains +and descended precipices; we have wound along the face of +deep ravines, where a false step was death; we are familiar +with smooth slippery rock and with loose boulders; and after +this expedition it can hardly be said that any country is impracticable +for an army determined to advance. I hear, however, +that between this and Magdala there are perpendicular +<pb n="339"/><anchor id="Pg339"/>precipices running like walls for miles, places which could +scarcely be scaled by experienced cragsmen, much less by +loaded mules. We must therefore make a detour. It is +tiresome, for everyone is burning with impatience to be at +Magdala, and to solve the long-debated problems—will Theodore +fight? will he fight in the open, or defend Magdala? +or will he hand over the captives with an apology? and shall +we be content to receive one? I believe that I can answer +the last question with certainty. We shall not. If Theodore +sends in the captives we shall receive them, but shall certainly +exact retribution from him. We shall either take him +prisoner or compel him to fly. If we obtain the prisoners +unhurt, we shall still take Magdala. If he escape to the +mountains with a few adherents, we shall, in that case, be +content to retire, and to leave the task of hunting him down +to his numerous enemies; but if he murder the prisoners we +shall ourselves remain here until he is captured. I think I +may positively state that this, or something very like it, is +the tenor of the instructions given to Sir Robert Napier by +the Government; and I think that they will be heartily approved +by all, except by those negrophilists who deny that a +black man can do wrong. It would be impossible to allow +Theodore to go unpunished; indeed, it would be offering a +premium to all savage potentates in future time to make +prisoners of any English travellers who may fall into their +hands. +</p> + +<p> +I now return to Dildee, from which place I last wrote, +while we were halting in consequence of the tremendous +march of the preceding day. Upon the evening of the day +upon which we halted we heard that General Staveley had +arrived with the force under his command at a stream five +<pb n="340"/><anchor id="Pg340"/>miles in our rear, and had there halted. He had with him +the 4th, a wing of the 33d, six companies of the Punjaub +Pioneers, Twiss’s Battery, and the Naval Rocket Train. It +was decided that the wing of the 33d, who were with us, +should halt for a day, and should come on as a complete +regiment, and that the 4th, which is numerically much weaker +than the 33d, should push on with the advance. The +next day’s march was short, but severe, as we had to climb +a mountain 3000 feet above our camping-ground. It was +hard work, but was got over much more speedily than usual, +as the train was much smaller, owing to our diminished numbers; +and we had consequently fewer of the tedious blocks +so trying to both man and beast. The road was in most +places pretty good; but was dangerous for a long distance +where it wound along the face of a deep ravine. The country +here must be either much more densely populated, or the +people much more industrious than in most of the districts +over which we have passed; for there were patches of cultivation +to the very top of the mountain, which, where we +crossed it, was about 11,000 feet above the sea. The mountain +side was bare of trees, or even bushes; but, curiously +enough, very near the summit were large quantities of small +palm-trees, with thick straight stems, three or four feet high, +and clustered heads of spreading leaves. Several Indian +officers agreed with me in considering them to be a species +of palm, but we had no botanist amongst us, and it seemed +most unlikely that even dwarf palm-trees should be growing +in such a lofty and exposed position. I have only before seen +palm-trees twice in Abyssinia, once at Goun Gonna, where +two or three grew near the church, and in a valley between +Attegrat and Antalo. +</p> + +<pb n="341"/><anchor id="Pg341"/> + +<p> +Arrived at the top of the pass, we found ourselves at the +head of a deep ravine, on the side of which, a quarter of a +mile from the summit, it was decided that the camp should be +pitched. A more uncomfortable place for a camp could hardly +be imagined. The ground was ploughed, and was extremely +sloping. The supply of water was deficient, and was four or +five hundred feet below us, and the wind swept over the top +of the pass with piercing force. However, there was no help +for it. The 4th had started four miles behind us, and there +was no ground even so good as that selected for another seven +miles. Immediately on our arrival, and before the tents +were pitched, a tremendous shower came on, and everyone +got drenched before the baggage-animals arrived with the +tents. The black earth turned, as if by magic, into slimy +clay, and our position was the reverse of agreeable. Far +worse, however, was the condition of the 4th, which, having +halted at Dildee for two hours, did not arrive until between +eight and nine in the evening, wetted of course to the skin. +We now felt bitterly the inconvenience of not having even +one change of clothes with us. It could, however, have +hardly been foreseen that, after having had only two or three +showers since we arrived in Abyssinia, we were to be exposed +to heavy rains regularly every day, which has, with one exception, +been the case for the last week. As it is, it is impossible +to say how long we shall be in our present state of +only having the clothes we stand in. It is a week since we +left our little all behind us at Lât. We are still a week’s +march from Magdala, and may calculate on being fully a month +without our baggage. Officers have all managed somehow +to bring on a second shirt and pair of stockings; but the +soldiers have no change of any kind. For them, and indeed +<pb n="342"/><anchor id="Pg342"/>for the officers, to be wetted through day after day, and to +have no dry clothes to put on, and this at an altitude of 11,000 +feet above the sea, and when the cold at night is more pierceing +than anything I ever experienced, is trying in the extreme, +and a great many are already complaining of rheumatic +pains. That night at the top of the hill was the most +unpleasant that officers or men have passed since their arrival +in the country: wet through, cold, and lying upon +ground so steep that we kept perpetually sliding down off our +waterproof sheet. As to lying in the orthodox fashion, side by +side, with all the heels close to the pole, like the spokes of a +wheel, the thing was simply impossible. In many of the +tents the men’s feet would have been a yard higher than their +heads. However, there were few grumblings at the discomfort; +but I can answer that I for one was greatly pleased when +I saw daylight break, to get up from my uncomfortable sliding +couch. We were ordered to start at eight, but the men’s +things were still so wet that the march was postponed for two +hours, to allow the blankets and greatcoats to be dried in the +wind and sun. +</p> + +<p> +Our next march was again only seven miles to a place +called Muja, not that there was a village of any kind there, +or indeed at eighteen out of twenty places we have stopped at. +To suppose that the natives have a name for every field is absurd. +Two speculations have been started as to how the +quartermaster-general’s department always obtain a name for +our camping-ground—the one is that they say something to +a native, and the first word he utters they put down at once +for the station; the other is that they draw a certain number +of vowels and consonants from a bag, drop them on the +ground, and see what word they form. It is certain that +<pb n="343"/><anchor id="Pg343"/>scarcely a name corresponds with those set down in maps, +and instead of calling these flats and plains by any name the +first native may tell them, it would be much more sensible, +and would render it much more easy for an English reader to +follow our course, if our quartermasters were to take some +good map, and fix upon the name which most nearly corresponds +with the position of our camps. +</p> + +<p> +The seven-miles road down to Muja was not difficult, but +was one of the most dangerous we have passed over. The path +for the whole distance wound along on the face of a deep +ravine. It was often little more than a foot wide, and was +formed sometimes upon rock, and sometimes on black earth, +which had been dried hard by the wind and sun before we +passed along it, but which if wet would have been perfectly +impassable. Had a storm come on when we were upon it, +we must have stopped to unload the animals. As it was, +only one stumbled and went over the edge, and was of course +killed. +</p> + +<p> +We have had a good many casualties lately among the animals. +The Scinde Horse, too, have lost several horses, but this +is hardly surprising from the way in which they ride them. A +Scinde horseman, and I believe most of the native cavalry, +have an idea that it shows good horsemanship to ride a horse +up and down very steep places. It would be a great saving +of horseflesh if an order were issued that all native cavalry +should dismount and lead their horses up, if not down also, +long or steep hills. Our camping-ground at Muja was flat +and turfy, but it had the disadvantage of being a great height +above water. Sir Robert Napier himself upon his arrival rode +a couple of miles farther in search of some site more convenient +for watering the animals, but he was unsuccessful in +<pb n="344"/><anchor id="Pg344"/>doing so. The camping-ground had also the disadvantage of +a very great scarcity of wood. +</p> + +<p> +Our view from Muja was very striking. Six miles in +front, and a thousand feet below us, lay the valley of the +Tacazze. Beyond arose a straight line of mountains, more +steep and formidable than anything we have hitherto seen. +The slope at their feet was comparatively easy, but it increased +rapidly, and a wall of perpendicular rock of upwards +of a hundred feet high ran along the crests without the +slightest apparent break. The range looked like a mighty +natural barrier to our further progress into Abyssinia. However, +we knew that the exploring-party was upon the plateau +on the summit, having gone up by the native road. Our +order for the morrow was, that we were to march early +down to the Tacazze; that we were to encamp in the valley, +and that the troops were to set to work to make the road up +the ghaut practicable for our ascent upon the following day. +At eight o’clock in the evening, however, Captain Fawcett, of +the quartermaster’s department, rode into camp with a letter +from Colonel Phayre, evidently written in great consternation +of mind, and saying that Mr. Munzinger, who is with Gobayze’s +army, was missing, and had no doubt fallen into +Theodore’s hands—that Theodore himself, with his army, had +crossed the Bachelo river, and was advancing to attack us; +and urging that more troops should be sent on. +</p> + +<p> +Of course there was great excitement in the camp at this +news. We were only thirty-five miles in a straight line from +Magdala, only twenty-three from the Bachelo, and as Theodore, +with his lightly-weighted natives would march nearly +straight, it was probable that we should be attacked on the +next night. In another hour an order was issued, which +<pb n="345"/><anchor id="Pg345"/>showed that Sir Robert Napier, as well as ourselves, looked +upon this information as most important. The column was +only to halt for two or three hours at the Tacazze, while a +strong working-party made the road to some extent passable. +We were then to march up it, and to encamp upon the plateau +for the night. +</p> + +<p> +It was evident that the Commander-in-chief felt the importance +of gaining the summit of the precipitous range opposite +before Theodore got to its top to prevent our so doing. +All the evening our talk was of Sniders and night-attacks, +and every <hi rend="italic">pro</hi> and <hi rend="italic">con</hi> was warmly discussed. At seven the +troops started, and in two hours and a half reached the +Tacazze. The Tacazze is here an insignificant stream, very +inferior to many of those we have previously crossed. Indeed, +it is more a succession of pools than a stream, and yet +as one crossed it, one could not forget that this was one of the +fountain-heads of the mighty Nile—that it was this little +streamlet, which, swollen by a thousand tributaries, rushes +every July into the main river, raising its level many feet, +and fertilising all Egypt with the rich Abyssinian soil it +carries down. +</p> + +<p> +We went on half-a-mile farther across the valley to a point +where the commissariat had collected a dépôt of grain. Here +the mules were unloaded, fed and watered, and the troops had +breakfast, while strong fatigue-parties of the Beloochees, +Punjaubees, and 4th went up the hill to work upon the road, +under the direction of Captains Goodfellow and Lemessurier +of the Engineers. In three hours afterwards the signallers +on the top of the hill waved us word that the road was passable, +and we started for a climb of a clear two thousand +five hundred feet. It was hard work, but the road was +sur<pb n="346"/><anchor id="Pg346"/>prisingly free from difficulties or dangers until we reached +within two or three hundred feet of the top. Then there were +some exceedingly nasty bits, but upon the whole it was nothing +like what we had anticipated, and not to be compared +to many places we have before passed. +</p> + +<p> +As we reached the top, Colonel Cameron called upon the +4th for three cheers, telling them that thrashing Theodore +would be nothing to the task of climbing that hill. The men +responded heartily but feebly; breath, not inclination, being +wanting. They then marched cheerily on across a plateau +level for another mile, in high spirits at the brush they were +looking forward to with Theodore. We soon found, as I had +imagined that we should do, that this anticipation was destined +for the present to be disappointed. +</p> + +<p> +Munzinger was not missing, and never had been. He +had gone out for a ride, and his servant said, on being questioned, +that he did not know where he was. Theodore had +not crossed, and apparently had not the least idea of crossing +the Bachelo, but was still making every effort to get his guns +into Magdala. +</p> + +<p> +We had no sooner reached the plateau than we became +conscious of a very great change in the temperature. The +wind blew bitterly cold, and not a single tree or even bush +of the smallest size was visible for the purposes of firewood. +There were numerous native cattle grazing on the hill-sides, +and the men at once set to work to pick up dried cow-dung, +which the natives habitually use for fuel; others busied themselves +in cutting peat; and the fires were soon lighted under +the cooking-pots. At six o’clock we had our usual heavy +rain, lasting for two hours; but fortunately before it set in +the tents were safely pitched. Only, therefore, the men on +<pb n="347"/><anchor id="Pg347"/>duty got wet. The night was most piercingly cold. To say +that ice formed upon water gives no idea whatever of the +cold. A strong March east wind blew with a force which penetrated +to the very bones. I can safely say that never in my +life did I feel the cold so much as I have the two last nights. +The troops, especially the natives, of course feel it still more +severely. Rheumatic pains are beginning to be generally +felt, and a week of this work will fill the hospital-tents. The +cold will tell more severely when the stock of rum is exhausted. +Each regiment brought up some with their fifteen +days’ supplies, and this is not yet exhausted; but the commissariat +supply is finished, and we have had none now for +four days. The sugar has been also exhausted, and the tea +was running very short. I am happy to say, however, that a +fresh supply has arrived to-day; for cold water only in such +a climate as this would be the reverse of cheering. +</p> + +<p> +It was arranged that we should halt here for two days, to +allow General Staveley to come up with the force under him. +Yesterday, early, news was brought in to the Chief that the +uncle of Wagshum Gobayze was coming in to pay a visit, +and Major Grant and Captain Moore went out to meet him. +The Adjutant-general carelessly omitted to notify the pickets of +the coming of the envoy; and accordingly, when the outlying +sentry of the 4th regiment saw a body of 700 or 800 horsemen +advancing, he naturally supposed that it was the enemy. He +very properly called out the picket, who loaded their Sniders, +and went out in skirmishing order to meet the enemy. In +another quarter of a minute they would have opened fire, +when an officer of the 4th came running up and stopped them. +Had he been a minute later the consequences would have +been most disastrous. Every shot would have told upon the +<pb n="348"/><anchor id="Pg348"/>dense body of horsemen, and the twenty men, in the minute +or two which must have elapsed before the cavalry could have +reached them, would have done terrible execution; and even +had the cavalry charged, would, by falling into a small square, +not improbably have defended themselves against the whole +force. But the lives so sacrificed would have been only the +beginning of misfortunes. Nothing would ever have convinced +Gobayze that the affair was the result of a mistake, +and we should have had him for our foe as well as Theodore. +And with Wagshum’s army hovering around us, cutting off +our baggage-train and attacking small parties, our position +would be indeed a precarious one. +</p> + +<p> +Wagshum Gobayze’s uncle arrived with his body of cavalry +at the other side of the little stream which borders our camp, +and here halted for a few minutes. The troops were in the +mean time paraded in front of their respective lines. Gobayze’s +troops, of whom there were 700 or 800 present, drew up in a +long line and dismounted, every man sitting down in front +of his horse. They were by far the most formidable body +we have seen since our arrival in this country. They were +really cavalry, and rode small but very strong and serviceable +horses. They were armed with shield and spear. I do +not of course mean that these troops could stand for a moment +against a charge of regular cavalry. It is probable that +a hundred of the Scinde Horse or of the 3d Cavalry would +scatter them like chaff; but for rough work, for dashing +down a mountain side and attacking a convoy, they would +be most formidable enemies. Their horses are all unshod, +are marvellously surefooted, and will go at a gallop over +places where an English horse could scarcely walk. We +were greatly surprised at the sight of this body of cavalry, +<pb n="349"/><anchor id="Pg349"/>for heretofore we had not seen an animal which could even +by courtesy be called a horse since we landed in Abyssinia. +</p> + +<p> +Leaving the main body of the force behind, the envoy +advanced, escorted by the 3d Cavalry, who had gone out to +meet him, and attended only by a dozen or so of his personal +followers. As he passed through the lines the regiments +saluted and the bands played. The envoy was an intelligent-looking +man, dressed in a crimson-silk dressing-gown, +brocaded with yellow; over this he wore the universal Abyssinian +white-cloth wrapping, and had a white turban upon +his head. By his side rode the officers who had gone out +to meet him and Mr. Munzinger. The envoy could not be +received in a public durbar, as the previous ambassadors have +been, for Sir Robert Napier has now only a small tent of +some eight to ten feet square. I am unable to say, therefore, +what took place at the interview, except that the envoy +expressed very considerable dread of Theodore, who, he said, +had 10,000 men, and would unquestionably fight us at Magdala. +</p> + +<p> +At the conclusion of the interview the envoy was presented +with a horse and a double-barrelled gun. While the +interview was going on we amused ourselves by inspecting +the envoy’s shield, which was carried by an attendant, and +was a very magnificent affair indeed. The shield itself was +of course of rhinoceros hide, and upon it was a piece of lion’s +skin, with numerous raised bosses of gilt-filigree work, which +appeared to me to be of Indian workmanship. It was one +of the ten royal shields, all precisely similar, which exist in +Abyssinia. The attendants were mostly fine, well-built fellows, +as were the general body of cavalry, and of superior +physique to any men we had hitherto seen. I should +men<pb n="350"/><anchor id="Pg350"/>tion that all the horses have a strap going from the forehead +down to the nose, upon which are two or more round plates +of metal with a sharp spike in them, exactly resembling, but +smaller, those worn upon the foreheads of the horses of the +knights of old. The 4th, the Scinde Horse, and a body of +3d Native Cavalry, were drawn up in front of the tent, and +saluted as the envoy left. There is no doubt that Theodore +will be no despicable foe, and the further we go the more +evident this becomes. Gobayze’s army is said to be 20,000 +strong; and if, as I understand, those we saw to-day were a +fair sample of them, they would be certainly formidable antagonists. +And yet Gobayze has been watching Theodore for +months, and did not dare to attack him, even when encumbered +by his artillery and baggage. Gobayze indeed confesses +that his army would have no chance with that of +Theodore. The army of the latter, then, when garrisoning +a position of such immense natural strength as that of Magdala, +will be formidable even to an army of 4000 British +troops. There can be no doubt that we shall capture the +place; but the British public must not be surprised if we do +not do it directly we arrive. +</p> + +<p> +Sir Charles Staveley arrived to-day with his force, which +slept last night at a halting-place at the foot of the ghaut. +I am glad to say that the general has so far recovered from +his attack of rheumatism as to be able to sit on his horse for +a portion of the journey. He brought with him the whole of +the 33d, six companies of the Punjaub Pioneers, Twiss’s steel +battery, the 3d Native Cavalry, and the Naval Rocket Brigade. +The 45th regiment, the 3d Dragoon Guards, and the +second wing of the Beloochees are all coming up by forced +marches, and, as well as the elephants with G 14 Battery, +<pb n="351"/><anchor id="Pg351"/>will arrive here in three days. This afternoon the Naval +Brigade went out to exhibit rocket practice. There was not +room in the valley for the practice, and they therefore went +up on to a hill, and fired at another hill about 2000 yards +distant. There are twelve mules, each with a tube, and there +is a supply of ninety rockets to each tube: there are four +men to each tube, beside the man who leads the mule. At +the word <q>unload!</q> the tubes, which are about three feet in +length, are quickly taken off the mules and arranged in line. +Each tube is provided with a sort of stand, with a marked +elevator, by which it can be adjusted to any required angle. +The order at first was to fire at ten degrees of elevation; +and upon the word <q>fire!</q> being given, one after another of +the rockets (which have no stick) rushed from the tube, and +buzzed through the air to the top of the opposite hill. Three +rockets were fired to this elevation, and then three from an +elevation of five degrees. A very strong wind was blowing, +and it was difficult therefore to form any opinion of the accuracy +of aim attainable. The bolts as they shot through the +air certainly did not appear to swerve in the slightest from +their original line; and there is no doubt that this novel +instrument of war will strike terror into the hearts of the +garrison of Magdala. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Scindee, April 5th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Scindee, April 5th"/> + +<dateline>Scindee, April 5th.</dateline> + +<p> +When I wrote from Santarai we were twenty-five miles +in a direct line from Magdala. After marching thirty-five +miles we are at exactly the same distance. In fact, we have +marched along the base of a triangle, of which Magdala +forms the apex. We have been obliged to do this to arrive +<pb n="352"/><anchor id="Pg352"/>at the one practicable point for crossing the tremendous +ravine of the Djedda. For the whole of this distance we have +marched along a nearly level plateau ten thousand feet above +the sea. The sun by day has been exceedingly hot, the wind +at night piercingly cold, and we have had heavy thunderstorms +of an afternoon. The extremes of temperature are +very great, and it is indeed surprising that the troops preserve +their health as they do. I have seen the thermometer +register 145° at eleven o’clock, and go down to 19° at night. +The plateau land has been bare and monotonous in the extreme, +not a single shrub, however small, breaks the view, +and the only variety whatever has been, that whereas in most +places the soil is a black friable loam, at others it is so +covered with stones of all sizes that the soil itself is scarcely +visible, and travelling is difficult and painful in the extreme. +Our first march was twelve miles in length to Gazoo, which +is the name of a stream running for nearly the whole distance +parallel to our line of march. At Gazoo, the very serious +news reached us that the arrangements for the native transport +had broken down, and that no supplies were on their +way up. This was what I had, when we started from Lât +for our rush forward, foreseen was exceedingly likely to +happen, and our position at once became a very precarious +one. We had only six days’ provision remaining. Magdala +was five days’ march distant. It was now certain that no +fresh supplies could possibly arrive until long after those we +have with us are exhausted. It is hardly probable that we +shall find any provisions upon our way, for to-morrow we +shall come upon Theodore’s track, and it is said that he has +burnt and plundered the whole country in the neighbourhood +of his line of route. It is very doubtful whether we shall +<pb n="353"/><anchor id="Pg353"/>obtain enough food for our animals; even now, when in a cultivated +country which has not been ravaged, forage is very +scarce, and the animals are upon the very shortest allowance +which will keep life together. The prospect, therefore, was +gloomy indeed, and there was a rumour that the Chief had +made up his mind to halt, and to send the whole of the animals +back to bring up provisions. This idea, however, if it +was ever entertained, was abandoned; those energetic officers, +Major Grant and Captain Moore, were sent back to endeavour +to arrange the hitch in the native carriage; the ration of +biscuit was reduced from a pound to half-a-pound per diem, +and the army moved on. Fortunately news came up that the +natives were bringing in a thousand pounds of flour a-day to +the commissariat station which had been established at the +Tacazze, and with these and our half-rations we might hold +on for some time. +</p> + +<p> +The next day’s march was sixteen miles, to Ad <anchor id="corr353"/><corr sic="Gazoo.">Gazoo,</corr> +through a country precisely similar in character to that +passed on the preceding day, except that it was more cultivated. +The villages, indeed, were everywhere scattered, and +although small were snug and comfortable-looking, the little +clusters of eight or ten huts, with their high conical thatched +roofs, looking very like snug English homesteads with their +rickyards. Here, as indeed through the whole of the latter +part of our journey, the people came out to gaze on the +passing army of white strangers. Picturesque groups they +formed as they squatted by the wayside. In the centre +would probably be the priest, and next to him the patriarch +and the chief of the village. Round them would sit the other +men, and behind these the women and girls would stand, the +latter chattering and laughing among themselves, or to the +<pb n="354"/><anchor id="Pg354"/>younger men, who stood beside them. Here, too, would be +the mothers, some with their little fat babies in their arms, +some with two or three children hanging round them, and +peeping bashfully out at the strange white men. Some of the +women would generally have brought goats, or a pot of honey, +or a jar of milk or ghee, or a bag of grain to sell, but they soon +forgot to offer them in their surprise at the strange attires and +beautiful horses of the strangers. +</p> + +<p> +From Ad Gazoo we yesterday moved our camp to this +place, a distance of only two miles, Sir Charles Staveley +bringing up his division to the camp we had left, so that the +whole force is now well together in case of an attack. An +affair took place yesterday evening, the consequences of which +might have been very serious. Ashasta, Gobayze’s uncle, who +visited us at Santarai, again came into camp with a couple of +hundred followers. Care had been taken this time to prevent +the possibility of his being fired into by the pickets, and +when his visit was over he was escorted by an officer beyond +the lines. After he had left us, he went to a village not far +distant, where he billeted half of his men. With the remainder +he started for another village; but upon his way he +passed close to an outlying picket of General Staveley’s brigade, +consisting of a corporal and four men of the 3d Native +Infantry. These men of course knew nothing of his having +come from our camp, and shouted to the party to keep their +distance. The natives, who, as I have before said, have a +strong impression that we cannot fight, replied by derisive +cries and by brandishing their lances. The corporal, naturally +supposing that it was a party of Theodore’s cavalry, +ordered one of his men to fire, which was answered by a +couple of shots on the part of the natives. The corporal then +<pb n="355"/><anchor id="Pg355"/>gave the word to the others to fire, and then to charge, and +the little party, sword in hand, went gallantly at the numerous +party of their supposed enemy. Ashasta, seeing that it +was a mistake, ordered his men to retreat, which they did, +pursued by the picket, who came up with some of the hindmost +of the party. They pursued for some distance, and +then halted. Two of the natives were killed in the affair, one +with a bullet, one by a sword-thrust, and two others were +wounded. At the sound of the firing Staveley’s brigade was +called out under arms, and considerable excitement prevailed +for some time. Late in the evening, when the matter was +understood, M. Munzinger went out to explain to Ashasta +how it had happened; and as the men killed were not chiefs, +and human life does not go for much in Abyssinia, our +apologies were accepted, and Ashasta came into camp again +to-day. Thus what might have been a very serious business +is happily arranged. The men upon picket are in no +way to blame; in fact, they behaved with great gallantry, +and must have opened the eyes of the natives to the fact that +we can fight when we like. Technically, they were somewhat +to blame in charging, as the rule is that a picket should never +advance, but should fire and hold its ground when possible, or +retire upon its supports if threatened by an overwhelming force. +</p> + +<p> +The Naval Rocket Brigade now form a portion of this +camp. They are an admirable body of men, and do great +credit to Captain Fellowes, their commanding officer. They +support the fatigues and hardships with the good-temper peculiar +to naval men. They march, contrary to what might +have been expected, even better than the soldiers, and never +fall out, even on the most fatiguing journeys. They are a +great amusement to the troops, and their admonitions to +<pb n="356"/><anchor id="Pg356"/>their mules, which they persist in treating as ships, are irresistibly +comic. I saw a sailor the other day who was leading +a mule, while a comrade walked behind it. A stoppage occurred, +but he went right on into the midst of a number of soldiers. +</p> + +<p> +<q>Hallo, Jack!</q> they said good-humouredly, <q>where are +you coming?</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Coming?</q> Jack said, <q>I ain’t coming anywhere. I +am only towing the craft; it’s the chap behind does the +steering.</q> +</p> + +<p> +It is always so with them. The head-rope is always +either the <q>tow-rope</q> or <q>the painter.</q> They starboard or +port their helm, <q>tack through a crowd,</q> or <q>wear the ship +round</q> in a most amusing way. They have of course shore-titles +for the occasion, but do not always answer to them. +</p> + +<p> +The other day I heard an officer call out, <q>Sergeant-major!</q> +</p> + +<p> +No answer. +</p> + +<p> +<q>Sergeant-major!</q> This time louder. +</p> + +<p> +Still no reply. +</p> + +<p> +A third and still louder hail produced no response. +</p> + +<p> +<q>Boatswain, where the devil are you?</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Ay, ay, sir!</q> was the instant answer from the man, +who was standing close by, but who had quite forgotten his +new rank of sergeant-major. +</p> + +<p> +Of an evening, if we have a halt, Jack sometimes dances. +The band of the Punjaubees—between whom and the sailors +there is a great friendship, although of course they do not +understand a word of each other’s language—comes over to +the sailors’ camp, and plays dance-music; and half-a-dozen +couples of sailors stand up and execute quadrilles, waltzes, +and polkas. +</p> + +<pb n="357"/><anchor id="Pg357"/> + +<p> +The scene is a very amusing one. The Punjaubees do +not stand, but sit in a circle, and play away with the greatest +gravity; very well they play too, for they are beyond all +comparison the best band out here. The sailors dance without +the least idea that there is anything comic in the business; +while round stand a crowd of amused soldiers and of +astonished natives of the country, to whom the whole performance +is a profound mystery. +</p> + +<p> +The Punjaub Pioneers still maintain the high opinion +they have earned by their hard work. They are indeed a +splendid regiment, and reflect the greatest credit upon Major +Chamberlain, their popular commanding-officer. Major +Chamberlain’s case is a particularly hard one. He was promoted +to the rank of major during the mutinies, and was +subsequently, for his great services, recommended no less +than three times for his colonelcy. The Indian Government, +however, refused, on account of his recent promotion. Eleven +years have since elapsed, and that objection must long ere +this be done away with; and yet Major Chamberlain is only +Major Chamberlain still. It is to be hoped that at the end of +this campaign a tardy recognition will be made of his services. +</p> + +<p> +It was Major Chamberlain and his Punjaubees who found +water at a short distance from Zulla. He asserted, and very +rightly, that as there was water at Koomaylo, it must find +its way down to the sea somehow, and so he set his men to +work to dig. Down he went steadily, amidst the laughter +and chaff of his friends in the Engineers. Still he persevered, +and at nearly sixty feet from the surface he struck water. +An abundant supply is now obtainable from this well, and +by this service alone he has amply earned his promotion. +</p> + +<pb n="358"/><anchor id="Pg358"/> + +<p> +The difficulties of writing since we left Lât have been +greater than ever, and the manual operation of inditing an +epistle is a most serious business. Of course there is nothing +resembling a chair or a table,—not even a box. The only +way to write is lying upon the ground, and putting one’s +paper upon one’s pillow. Now my pillow is not a comfortable +one for sleeping upon, much less for writing. It is +composed of a revolver, a box of cartridges, a telescope, a +bag of dollars, a packet of candles, a powder-flask, a bag of +bullets, a comb, a pair of stockings, and a flannel-shirt,—in +fact, all my worldly belongings. A most useful kit, no +doubt, but uncomfortable as a pillow, inconvenient as a +writing-table. However, one gets accustomed to anything; +and if this campaign lasts another month or two, we shall +not improbably have learnt to dispense with much more important +articles than tables and chairs; for we have only the +clothes we stand in, and these are already giving unmistakable +signs of approaching dissolution. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Dalanta, April 5th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Dalanta, April 5th"/> + +<dateline>Dalanta, April 5th.</dateline> + +<p> +We are now getting to names which are somewhat familiar +to us. The river Djedda, which the troops crossed +yesterday, and the plain of Dalanta, where we are encamped +to-day, were both mentioned frequently in the letters from +the captives. The river Djedda was the place where Theodore +was detained so long making a practicable road for his +guns, and where he was represented as encouraging his men +at their task by working with his own hands. Dalanta was +the province or tract which was spoken of as in rebellion +against him for a considerable time previously, but which +submitted as soon as he had crossed the Djedda. +</p> + +<pb n="359"/><anchor id="Pg359"/> + +<p> +After I had sent off my letter of the 3d, intelligence +arrived that Theodore had broken up his camp before Magdala, +and was moving to attack us. I need hardly say that +the news was untrue. The Chief, however, was bound to act +upon it, and consequently we were ordered to march at seven; +and instead of halting, as previously intended, upon the edge +of the ravine of the Djedda, we were to cross and encamp on +the other side, so as to avoid the possibility of having to take +such a strong position. Colonel Milward, who had marched +the evening before with the Punjaubees, and two companies of +the 4th, was ordered to cross early, and General Staveley was +to bring up his force to the edge of the ravine. We started +punctually at the time ordered, and marched across a precisely +similar country to that we had traversed for the few +previous days. Some miles before we reached the edge of +the Djedda the whole aspect was changed. The yellow stubble +and hay, which had before stretched away upon both +sides, was all burnt, and the ground was covered only with +a black ash. The flocks and herds which had dotted the +country were gone, and scarcely a human being was to be +seen over the black expanse. The snug homesteads and villages +had disappeared, and in their places were bare walls +and heaps of stones. I rode up to one of these. On the floor +lay the half-charred thatch of the roof; among it were portions +of broken pots and baking effects. Here was a long +round stone, which was used as a rolling-pin to make the +flat bread; there was a large vessel of baked earth and cow-dung +which had once held flour or milk. A rat scuttled +away as I looked in. There was not a living soul in what +had once been a large village. This was indeed the desolation +of war. Presently we saw rising, apparently a few feet +<pb n="360"/><anchor id="Pg360"/>above the plain, at a distance of five or six miles, a long +perpendicular wall of rock. This, we knew, was the upper +edge of the opposite side of the Djedda. The ground then +sank a little in front of us, and, riding along the slight depression, +we suddenly turned a corner, and below us lay the +wonderful gorge of the Djedda. Its width from edge to edge +was four or five miles, its depth to the stream 3800 feet. It +was a wonderful ravine. As far as eye could see either way, +the upper part upon sides appeared like two perpendicular +walls of perhaps a third of its total depth. Then, on either +side, was a plain or shoulder of from a mile to a mile and a +half in width, with a gradual slope towards the stream. The +lower portion was again extremely steep, but still with a +gradual descent, and not mere walls of rock like the upper +edges. It was easy to imagine the whole process of the +formation of this gorge. Originally it must have been an +arm of the sea; a gulf of five miles across, and with perpendicular +cliffs upon either side, and its depth the level of the +broad shoulders. Then the land rose, and a great river ran +through the centre of what was now a noble valley, gradually +eating its way down until its bed attained its present enormous +depth. It was this ravine which had been the cause of the +immense detour we have had to make. Forty miles back, at +Santarai, we were said to be as close to Magdala as we were +when we stood prepared to descend into the Djedda. But +the perpendicular walls barred our progress, and we have +marched along nearly parallel to its course until we have +reached the one spot where a break in its iron walls allow +of our descent. By this route Theodore marched, and when +we saw the road he had made for us, we felt for the first time +since our arrival really grateful to the Abyssinian tyrant. +</p> + +<pb n="361"/><anchor id="Pg361"/> + +<p> +It is really a wonderful road, almost as good as could +have been made by our own engineers; the only difference +being that they would have thrown a layer of earth over +the loose stones to bind them together, and to afford a firm +and level surface. The road is really constructed with great +engineering skill. Blasting-tools have been freely used +wherever the rock required it. Every wind and turn, every +shoulder and slope, has been taken advantage of in order +to make zigzags, and render the descent more gradual. It +is true that in places it is fearfully steep—an incline of one +and a quarter to one—which, to convey the idea more popularly, +is about the slope of the bank of a railway-cutting. +The leaving the road in its present state, with loose stones, +may have been done with an object, for upon a solid road +of this angle it would have been next to impossible to have +kept heavy cannon on wheels from running down, whereas +upon a very loose and heavy road the matter was comparatively +easy. The length of the descent is four miles and +a half, that of the ascent three miles and a half. Two +miles and a half of the former, and a mile and a half +of the latter, are across and partially along the shoulders, +where the slope was very slight. In consequence, it may +be said that actually three thousand feet of depth were +on either side attained in two miles, which would give an +average incline of one in three. The road is from twenty +to thirty feet in width; generally it is made through basalt, +which, in cooling, had crystallised, so that its surface resembles +a mosaic pavement, and this readily breaks up. +Parts, however, are cut through a hard stone, and portions +through a conglomerate, which must have tried to the utmost +the tools and patience of Theodore’s army. How he achieved +<pb n="362"/><anchor id="Pg362"/>the task with the means at his disposal I am at a loss to +understand; and the road has certainly raised Theodore very +many degrees in the estimation of our men. Upon every +level space in the camping-ground of his army, there are +their fireplaces, and innumerable little bowers of five feet +high and little more in diameter, in which his troops curled +themselves up when their day’s work was over. It was a +long and very weary descent. Going down a steep place +is comparatively easy when one carries no load; but when +one has over fifty pounds upon the back it is extremely +trying. At last we reached the bottom, a stony waste of +a quarter of a mile wide, with a few large trees growing +upon what in the rainy season are, no doubt, islands. The +bed of the stream is perfectly dry, except that here and +there, at intervals of a quarter of a mile or so, were pools +of water, very soft and unpleasant to the taste, and full of +tadpoles. The troops when they arrived here were a good +deal done up, having already marched thirteen miles, and +it was hoped that the Chief would order a halt for the night. +He, however, considered it essential that the plateau should +be gained that evening, and Milward’s corps, whose rearguard +left the river as we descended to it, supported. The +troops were ordered to halt and rest until four o’clock, and +to have their dinners, and the mules were to be unloaded, +fed, and watered. +</p> + +<p> +It was three o’clock before the baggage began to arrive +in the valley, and it was evident that it would not be all +down until dark, and that much of it could not reach the +plateau above that night. Three of us, therefore, resolved +upon sleeping where we were, and upon going on at daybreak. +We accordingly pitched our tents under a tree, saw +<pb n="363"/><anchor id="Pg363"/>our horses picketed and fed, and dinner in course of preparation, +and then went out for a walk to explore the valley. +The temperature was very many degrees warmer than upon +the plateau above, and the flora was more than proportionately +luxuriant. Here I find, among hundreds of other +plants of whose names and properties I am unfortunately +ignorant, the wild verbena and heliotrope, also the cucumber. +Unfortunately the cucumbers had only just begun to form, +and were scarcely as large as gherkins, or we might have +had an unexpected addition to our fare. I also found quantities +of the rare palm-fern growing in crevices of the rocks. +It was altogether a splendid field for a botanist, and I think +it a great pity that a learned botanist did not accompany the +expedition instead of a geographer, who, although a most +distinguished savant, can but tell the world nearly the same +particulars of the narrow strip of country through which we +are travelling as must occur to any ordinary observer. Had +this gentleman merely taken advantage of the protection +given by our presence in the country to travel generally +through it, he might have no doubt added largely to our +store of information; but keeping to the line of route followed +by the army, he can, with the exception of ascertaining +the precise heights over which we travel, tell us really next +to nothing. I believe, however, that this staying with the +army is in no degree the fault of the gentleman in question, +but of the military authorities, who here appear to have the +idea that a civilian is a sort of grown-up baby, who must be +kept strictly under their own eyes, or else that he will infallibly +get into mischief, and either come to harm himself, or +else be the cause of that dreadful and mysterious thing—complications. +Had King Kassa, at the time he visited us, +<pb n="364"/><anchor id="Pg364"/>been applied to by the Commander-in-chief, he would, no +doubt, have afforded every facility to the geographer and +archæologist to have wandered as they pleased among his +dominions, and the latter especially might have visited the +interesting cities of Adowa and Axum, and made discoveries +of an important and interesting nature, instead of wasting +his time on the summit of the bleak Abyssinian mountains. +</p> + +<p> +We enjoyed our little picnic amazingly. It was such a +relief to get for once out of the routine of camp, with its +sentries, and its countersigns, and bugle-calls, and mules, +and to lie outside our tent and enjoy the warm evening air, +which we had not been able to do since we left Zulla, where +there was only sand to lie on. At eight o’clock, however, +the rain came on and drove us in, with the pleasant knowledge +that we had chosen well in stopping, for the last of the +baggage was not down the hill until past six; and although +they at once started upon their weary climb, it was +impossible that they could reach the camp before morning. +Our camp was presently increased in size by a dozen commissariat +coolies, who were driving several hundred sheep and +some oxen, and who did not get to the river until nearly +eight o’clock. Jackals and hyænas were very numerous, so +we piled together a good fire to keep them off our horses, and +then lay down to sleep with our rifles and revolvers within +reach, for it was of course just possible, although not—as +some of the members of the staff to whom we had mentioned +our intention to stay considered likely—probable, that some +of Theodore’s cavalry might come along down the valley upon +the look-out for stragglers. We came up at daybreak next +morning, and after a cup of sugarless tea, started for camp. +It was a very severe climb, and at the shoulder we came up +<pb n="365"/><anchor id="Pg365"/>to many of the mules which had been unable to get up the +night before. The road which Theodore has cut enables us to +see very clearly the formation of the valley, and I have not +the least question that coal would be found there. I do not +mention this as a commercial, but as a scientific, fact; for, +commercially, coal here would be of no more value than +stones. But of the fact itself I have no question. The character +of the formation, the stone, the bands of fireclay, and +of black friable shale, are very distinct, and there is in my +mind no doubt whatever of the existence of coal. On the +way we passed several dead mules and horses, and there can +be no question that the journey was a most cruel one. This +extreme fatigue may not cripple a man at the time, he may +be ready for duty the next morning; but it must tell, and tell +severely upon his constitution, and there are not a few men +here who will feel the effects of Mahkan, Dildee, and Dalanta, +to the end of their lives. The camp is situated upon a dead-level +about a mile from the top of the ascent. I find upon +inquiry that the troops in general got in at nine o’clock—of +course wet through—but that very many of them, and a +great deal of baggage, did not come in until this morning. +There were rumours of an attack, Rassam having sent in a +letter warning the Chief to be particularly on his guard +against night attacks. The men, therefore, went to sleep in +their boots, with their rifles by their sides. No attack took +place. The same precaution is used to-night. We find, as I +expected, that very little is brought in by the natives. The +horses and mules to-day only get two pounds of grain each. +We are still upon half-rations of flour, which, by this means, +and with what is bought at Tacazze and upon the way will, I +hope, enable us to hold on until supplies arrive. Nothing +<pb n="366"/><anchor id="Pg366"/>positive has yet been heard of the native carriage. Sir +Robert Napier has been out all day making a long reconnoissance. +From one point which he attained the tents of Theodore’s +army upon the plain in front of Magdala were clearly +visible. The party did not return until dark, and I have +heard no particulars. Theodore is known, however, to be +still there, and his efforts are directed to fortifying the hill +which defends Magdala. He has several guns in position on +the summit, and I apprehend that we shall have to capture it +before we assault Magdala. It is not known yet whether we +advance to-morrow or not, but it is believed that we shall +start late, and make a short march, and that Sir Charles +Staveley, who is encamped to-night at the bottom of the +Djedda ravine, will come up to our present camp. It is a +tremendously wet night. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Dalanta, April 7th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Dalanta, April 7th"/> + +<dateline>Dalanta, April 7th.</dateline> + +<p> +We have had many surprises since we arrived in the +country, but none greater, and certainly none more satisfactory, +than that which we have here experienced. The +letters from the captives had informed us that Theodore had +burnt everything upon the plain of Dalanta; and we had in +consequence imagined that we should be able to obtain nothing +whatever either for ourselves or animals, and that the +prospect of the latter especially was gloomy in the extreme, +for we had not any corn whatever remaining for them. Captain +Speedy, however, rode out to see the chief of Dalanta, +with whom he had an acquaintance when residing in the +country. He returned in the afternoon with the tidings that +the chief had promised at least 100,000 lbs. of grain in two +<pb n="367"/><anchor id="Pg367"/>days. It is evident that he is a man of his word, for we have +had a market to-day which has surpassed anything we have +seen in the country except at Antalo. There is a crowd of +people with grain, bread, fowls, &c. &c., and the four or five +commissariat Parsees cannot pay out the dollars for the bucket-loads +of grain half as fast as the natives bring them in. It +is indeed quite a scramble among these latter. +</p> + +<p> +This unexpected influx of grain, &c., may be said to be +the turning-point which secures the success of our expedition. +Had we found no grain here we must have lost all the transport-animals, +as these have already been on very short commons +for some days. The supplies for the men too were +running extremely short, and if Magdala holds out for a week +our position would have been most unpleasant; now we are +safe. We have abundant grain for the animals for another +week, and we are told that supplies will continue to come in +in any quantities. Very large quantities of bread too have +been purchased, and both officers and men have laid in a +stock of fowls, eggs, &c. All anxiety is at an end. We +have fairly overcome now all the difficulties of the country, +and of supplies. Theodore and his men are, in comparison, +contemptible foes. +</p> + +<p> +Staveley’s brigade came up yesterday, and are encamped +at a spot about two miles beyond us. Now that supplies are +coming in in abundance, and a day is no longer of vital consequence, +we shall, I believe, wait for another day or two to +allow the wing of the 45th, the second wing of the Beloochees, +and the 3d Dragoon Guards, to come up. +</p> + +<p> +Yesterday almost every officer in camp went to the edge +of the ravine to have a look at Magdala. It is a ride of a +little over two miles, and the ravine goes down in an almost +<pb n="368"/><anchor id="Pg368"/>unbroken precipice of 500 or 600 feet from the upper edge. +The view is one of the finest, if not the very finest, we have +had in Abyssinia. It is grand in the extreme. At our feet +was the perpendicular precipice, then a short shoulder, and +then another sharp fall down to the Bachelo, which is 3900 +feet below us. This side of the ravine is very similar, but +steeper, to that of the Djedda. Upon the other side, however, +the character is altogether different. In place of a +corresponding ascent, as at the Djedda, the ground rises in a +succession of billows one behind another, higher and higher, +to the foot of some very lofty mountains, which form the +background forty miles away. Such an extraordinary sea +of hills I never saw. It was most magnificent, and stretched +away east and west as far as the eye could reach. Above all +this Magdala rose like a great ship out of the surrounding +billows. There was no mistaking it, with its precipitous +sides, its frowning aspect, and the cluster of tents clearly +discernible upon its summit. As the crow flies it was about +eight miles distant. +</p> + +<p> +I will endeavour to give as clear a description of it as +possible, in order that our future operations may be readily +understood. From the bed of the Bachelo the ground rises +in a mass of rounded hills, with somewhat flat tops; down +through these, deep ravines convey the streams from the +distant hills into the Bachelo. One of these ravines comes +down nearly direct from Magdala, and it is up this that the +road goes, until it gets within about two miles of Magdala, +when it leaves the ravine and goes up on to the flat hill-tops +from the midst of which Magdala rises. Magdala, from here, +appears like a three-topped mountain with almost perpendicular +sides. Two of the summits, which together resemble +<pb n="369"/><anchor id="Pg369"/>a saddle with high flat peaks, face this way. The hill to +the right is Fahla; that on the left, which is some hundred +feet higher, is Salamgi. The road winds up the face of Fahla +to the saddle between the two, and it is evident that Fahla +will be the first position to be attacked. There are apparently +very few huts upon Fahla. The road, we hear, after reaching +the top of the saddle, turns to the left, and crosses over +Salamgi. Salamgi is tremendously strong; it is a series of +natural scarps, of great height; and upon the terrace formed +by these scarps a great portion of Theodore’s force is encamped. +Salamgi, if well defended, even by savages, will +be a most formidable position to assault. The third top of +this singular fortress is Magdala itself. This, like Fahla, +has a flat top, which is completely covered with large huts. +We see only the top of Magdala, over the saddle between +Salamgi and Fahla. It is apparently lower than Salamgi, +but higher than Fahla. It is, we hear, connected with +Salamgi by a flat shoulder. It appears to be about a mile +distant from the summit of this mountain, and when, therefore, +we have taken Salamgi, our light guns will not be of +much utility in bombarding Magdala at so great a distance. +</p> + +<p> +I have now given an idea of the scene in which the great +drama, which will commence to-morrow or next day, will be +played. My next letter will, at any rate, give you the opening +scene, and possibly even the entire drama. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Before Magdala, April 11th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Before Magdala, April 11th"/> + +<dateline>Before Magdala, April 11th.</dateline> + +<p> +Although it was evident when I last wrote to you that +the last act of our long drama was approaching, I certainly +did not imagine that my next letter would convey the tidings +<pb n="370"/><anchor id="Pg370"/>that all was over—that the captives were free, their prison +captured, their oppressor punished, and general triumph +amidst a blaze of blue fire. But so it is; for although +Magdala has not yet fallen, it will undoubtedly do so before +the post closes, and a more gratifying termination to our +expedition than has eventuated could not have been desired +by the most sanguine. I had better continue my letter in a +narrative form from the date when I last wrote—for if I +describe the final events first it would deprive the rest of the +matter of all interest. +</p> + +<p> +I wrote last on the evening of the 7th from Dalanta. +The following day brought in largely-increased supplies, +and the market was completely thronged with the country +people. In the three days we were there we purchased over +100,000 lbs. of grain, besides quantities of bread, &c. &c., +and nowhere, even at Antalo, did supplies flow in with +such rapidity as at this place, where we expected to find a +desert. +</p> + +<p> +On the afternoon of the 8th the wing of the 45th marched +into camp, having done the distance from Scindee. The authorities +had thoughtfully sent down mules to the Djedda +river to carry up their coats and blankets, and the men +consequently arrived comparatively fresh. The sailors of +the Naval Brigade turned out as they came into camp, and +saluted them with three hearty cheers. The 45th are a +remarkably fine body of men. +</p> + +<p> +Thus reinforced Sir Robert Napier determined to move +forward and to encamp before Magdala, even if he decided +upon delaying the assault until the other wing of the Beloochees +and the 3d Dragoon Guards joined us. The order +was accordingly issued for a march the next day to the edge +<pb n="371"/><anchor id="Pg371"/>of the Bachelo ravine, to which the second brigade, which +were now two miles ahead of us, were also to proceed. We +started at ten o’clock, and were soon upon our camping-ground, +which was only five miles distant. Here the second +brigade joined us, and together we formed a larger camp +than any we have had since our landing at Zulla. From +the front of the camp we had an excellent view of Magdala, +which stood up, with Salamgi and Fahla, a thousand feet +above the surrounding hills. We could now see that the +ridge connecting Salamgi with Fahla was longer than it had +appeared from our previous point of view, the distance from +one end to the other of the saddle being apparently over +half a mile. +</p> + +<p> +The first brigade was ordered to advance at daybreak. +The Commander-in-chief and his head-quarters were to move +with the second brigade at ten o’clock, so as to allow the +baggage of the first brigade to get first to the bottom of +the ravine. The first brigade were to march to within two +or three miles of Magdala. The second were to encamp +upon the river, and to march on early the next morning. +There was then not the slightest intention on the part of +Sir Robert Napier that any attack should take place, and +indeed, as I have before said, it was considered very probable +that we should await the arrival of the troops hurrying +up from behind before any assault was made upon Magdala. +However, I determined to go on early, as it was quite possible +that something would take place, and I had afterwards +good reason to congratulate myself upon having so done, as +several others who had not started until ten o’clock lost the +exciting scene at the end of the day. +</p> + +<p> +Sir Charles Staveley was in command of the advance, +<pb n="372"/><anchor id="Pg372"/>and Colonel Phayre, as quartermaster-general of the army, +went on in front with six companies of the Bombay and +Madras Sappers to prepare the road, should it be necessary. +</p> + +<p> +At half-past five the next morning (Good Friday) we +were in motion, and at once entered upon the steep descent +to the Bachelo. It is a ravine of about the same depth as +the Djedda, namely, 3800 feet, and the road, as made by +Theodore, is a wonderfully good one. It is shorter, but at +the same time scarcely so precipitous as parts of that down to +the Djedda, and can hardly have presented quite so many +difficulties, that is, there were fewer places <anchor id="corr372"/><corr sic="were">where</corr> the basalt +had to be cut through with blasting-tools. Still, it was a +fatiguing descent to the Bachelo, and the sun, when it rose, +came down with tremendous power. The men had had but +a scanty supply of water the night before, and hardly any +before starting; they therefore looked forward eagerly for +the welcome stream at the bottom. It turned out, however, +a disappointment, for although there was an abundance of +water, the river being eighty yards wide, and nearly waist-deep, +the water was of a consistency and colour which would +have rendered it perfectly undrinkable except to men suffering +from great thirst. I do not think I ever saw such muddy +water in a stream. It was the colour of coffee with milk in +it, and perfectly opaque with mud. It looked like nothing +so much as the water in a dirty puddle in a London street, +just as it has been churned up by the wheels of a passing +omnibus. However, there was no help for it, and, dirty as +it was, everyone had a drink, and the soldiers filled their +canteens, for it was probable that no more water would be +obtainable during the day. +</p> + +<p> +From the Bachelo a broad ravine with a flat bottom ran +<pb n="373"/><anchor id="Pg373"/>nearly straight to Salamgi, and along this Theodore’s road +was made. It was believed, however, that guns had been laid +to command this road, and it was not improbable that Theodore +might make a sudden attack. It was therefore determined +that the mountain guns, rocket trains, and baggage +should proceed by this road, preceded by the six hundred +Sappers and Miners; and that the infantry should at once +climb the hills to its right, and should march along them, so +as to clear them of any possible enemy. To cross the river +the men had to wade, the first time that they have had to do so +since they landed. Some wisely took off their trousers, others +thinking vainly that the water would not reach above their +knees, merely rolled their trousers up, and, of course, got +thoroughly wet. Most of them took off shoes and stockings, +but many stopped in the middle and put their boots on again, +for the stones were so extremely sharp that wet shoes were +preferable to cut feet. At last the troops were across, and +after a short halt moved forward, the Sappers having gone on +an hour previously with Colonel Phayre. After proceeding +up the valley we prepared to climb the hill. On crossing it +the 4th formed the advance, the men loading before they +started, as it was impossible that we could tell when we +might be attacked. Sir Charles Staveley, with General +Schneider, the able and popular officer commanding the first +brigade, with their staffs followed; and after them came the +4th—the little party of Engineers under Major Pritchard, the +Beloochees, the Punjaubees, and two companies of the 10th +Native Infantry; also a squadron of the 3d Native Cavalry, +the only cavalry we had with us. We have had some stiff +climbing since we entered Abyssinia, but this altogether surpassed +any of our previous experience. In fact, when we got +<pb n="374"/><anchor id="Pg374"/>near the summit of the first range, we came to a spot which +was almost impassable even for infantry, and quite so for the +horses of the staff. Two or three officers endeavoured to drag +their horses up, but the animals, although pretty well accustomed +by this time to stiff places, were quite unable to get +up, and one or two tumbled backwards and were nearly +killed. The infantry therefore clambered up to the top; but +we had to wait where we were for half-an-hour, until the Punjaub +Pioneers cleared a sort of track up which we were able +to scramble. When on the first level we had a halt for half-an-hour, +for the troops were all very much exhausted by their +climb, under one of the hottest suns I ever felt. They were +now, too, beginning to suffer much from thirst, and the +muddy water in the skins was drunk most eagerly. It tasted +muddy, but was not otherwise bad; but we had to shut our +eyes to drink it. While we were waiting here a messenger +arrived from Colonel Phayre, saying that he held the head of +the valley with the Sappers and Miners, and that the road was +quite practicable. Sir Charles Staveley at once sent off an +aide-de-camp to Sir Robert Napier, saying that the baggage +and guns, which were waiting at the river for the receipt of +this intelligence, might move forward in safety. We then +marched four miles farther up a succession of rises to the +place where it was hoped from the native accounts that we +should find water; but there was only one small pool of very +dirty water, with which, however, three or four skins were +filled. The disappointment of the men, who were now suffering +severely, was very great, but there was no help for it. +Here, however, we met with a surprise, which to the commanding-officers +quite dispelled any thought of thirst or discomfort; +for here, to the astonishment and dismay of Sir +<pb n="375"/><anchor id="Pg375"/>Charles Staveley, he found Colonel Phayre and the 800 +Sappers and Miners, who were supposed to be holding the +head of the valley below us. This was now, we knew, crowded +with our artillery, ammunition-baggage and supplies. This +valley, as I before stated, ran straight to Magdala, and of +course was visible for its whole length to the garrison of that +fortress. +</p> + +<p> +The whole of the baggage was therefore open to an attack +from Magdala, and we upon the hill-top were powerless to +give them the slightest assistance. Had Theodore made an +attack at this period, it is not too much to say that the whole +of our guns, ammunition, and stores must have fallen into +his hands, for their whole guard was only eighty or a hundred +men of the 4th scattered over a long line. What Colonel +Phayre meant, or how he accounted for this extraordinary +conduct, I know not; but a more stupendous blunder never +was made, and had we had the most contemptible European +force to deal with instead of savages, we must have sustained +a crushing disaster. +</p> + +<p> +General Staveley at once sent off an officer to acquaint +Sir Robert Napier with the state of affairs, and then ordered +the troops to advance at once. +</p> + +<p> +Another couple of miles brought us to our camping-ground, +which lay a little behind the crest of a hill, and was +not visible from Magdala. Here the tired troops threw +themselves down, while the General advanced with his staff +to the edge of the rising ground. As the scene before it was +destined, although we were at the time ignorant of it, to +become our battle-field, I will endeavour to give as accurate +a description of it as possible, in order that the fight may be +better understood. +</p> + +<pb n="376"/><anchor id="Pg376"/> + +<p> +We stood on the edge of a sort of plateau. At our feet +was a small ravine or valley, dividing us from another plateau, +which extended to the foot of Fahla and Salamgi. This +plateau was a hundred feet or so below the spot upon which +we stood, and would have been completely commanded by +our guns. This plateau was bounded both to the right and +left by ravines, the one to the left being the head of the +valley in which was our baggage. The little valley which +divided us from the plateau widened out to the left, the spot +where it fell into the main valley being half a mile distant; +and here we could see the spot where our baggage would +arrive when it had climbed up from the valley beneath. +</p> + +<p> +Sir Charles Staveley at once despatched the Punjaub +Pioneers to this point; that done, there was nothing for it +but to wait the event; and this waiting was painful in the +extreme. +</p> + +<p> +It was now half-past three. Everyone was devoured +with a burning thirst, which the scanty draught of mud +seemed to excite rather than allay. Any money would have +been cheerfully given for a drink of pure water. A storm +was seen coming up, but it unfortunately did not pass over +us; we got, however, the tail of the shower, and by spreading +out my waterproof-sheet, I caught nearly half a pint, +which I shall long remember as one of the most refreshing +draughts I ever tasted. +</p> + +<p> +In the mean time Sir Robert Napier had arrived with his +staff, and it was evident, by the anxious care with which he +reconnoitred the hill before us, and the head of the valley, +that he considered our position to be a critical one. We +could see with our glasses half-a-dozen guns in line on the +flat top of Fahla, and as many more upon Salamgi, and +<pb n="377"/><anchor id="Pg377"/>presently we saw two artillerymen go from gun to gun, and +load them in succession. Still all was quiet; but it was a +time of most anxious suspense, for we knew that from the +fortress they could see our long line of animals winding up +the valley, and that the head of the train must be fast approaching. +Presently the Naval Rocket Brigade, which was +in front of the baggage, emerged upon the flat below us and +joined the Punjaubees; and almost at the same moment a +dozen voices proclaimed, <q>A large force is coming down the +road on the brow of the fortress.</q> +</p> + +<p> +Every glass was turned there, and a large body of horse +and foot-men were seen hurrying down pell-mell, and without +any order or regularity. At first there was a divided +opinion as to whether this was a peaceful embassy or an +attack; but all doubt was put an end to in another minute +by the booming of a gun from Fahla, and by a thirty-two +pound shot striking the ground at a few yards from the body +of Punjaubees. It was war, then, and a general burst of +cheering broke from the officers who were clustered round +the General. Theodore actually meant to fight, and not +only that, but to fight in the open. +</p> + +<p> +Still our position was a most serious one. The second +brigade was miles behind, the baggage undefended except +by the Punjaubees, and it was easy enough for the enemy +to make a circuit down the ravine and to avoid them. Sir +Robert Napier instantly despatched an aide-de-camp to Major +Chamberlain, commanding the Pioneers, to order him to +take up a position on elevated ground to his left, where he +could the better protect the baggage, and to order the Naval +Brigade to hurry up the valley to the commanding spur +upon which we were standing. Aide-de-camp after +<anchor id="corr377"/><corr sic="aide-camp">aide-<pb n="378"/><anchor id="Pg378"/>de-camp</corr> was sent back to bring up the infantry. It was a +most exciting five minutes. The enemy were coming down +with very great rapidity. They had already descended the +road from the fortress, and were scattered over the plain; +the principal body moving towards the valley in which was +our baggage, the rest advancing in scattered groups, while +the guns upon Fahla kept up a steady fire upon the Punjaubees. +A prettier sight is seldom presented in warfare +than that of the advance of the enemy. Some were in groups, +some in twos and threes. Here and there galloped chiefs +in their scarlet-cloth robes. Many of the foot-men, too, +were in scarlet or silk. They kept at a run, and the whole +advanced across the plain with incredible and alarming rapidity, +for it was for some time doubtful whether they would +not reach the brow of the little valley,—along which the +Rocket Train was still coming in a long single file,—before +the infantry could arrive to check them; and in that +case there can be no doubt that the sailors would have +suffered severely. The road, or rather path from the valley, +up to the spur upon which we stood, was steep and very +difficult, and considerable delay occurred in getting the animals +up. After a few minutes, which seemed ages, the +infantry came up at the double; all their fatigue and thirst +vanished as if by magic at the thought of a fight. The +4th, who were only about 300 strong—the remainder being +with the baggage—were ordered to go on in skirmishing +order; they were followed by the little party of Engineers, +then came the Beloochees, and after them the two companies +of the 10th N.I. and the Sappers and Miners. Just as the +head of the infantry went down into the valley, the leading +mules reached the top of the crest by our side, and in +<pb n="379"/><anchor id="Pg379"/>less than a minute the first rocket whizzed out on the +plain. +</p> + +<p> +It was our first answer to the fire which the guns of the +fortress had kept up, and was greeted with a general cheer. +As rocket after rocket rushed out in rapid succession, the +natives paused for a minute, astonished at these novel missiles, +and then, their chiefs urging them forward, they again +advanced. They were now not more than five hundred +yards from ourselves, a hundred from the edge of the little +ravine up the side of which the skirmishers of the 4th were +rapidly climbing. With my glass I could distinguish every +feature, and as we looked at them coming forward at a +run, with their bright-coloured floating robes, their animated +gestures, their shields and spears, one could not help feeling +pity for them, ruffians and cut-throats as most of them undoubtedly +were, to think what a terrible reception they were +about to meet with. In another minute the line of skirmishers +had breasted the slope, and opened a tremendous fire +with their Sniders upon the enemy. The latter, taken completely +by surprise, paused, discharged their firearms, and +then retreated, slowly and doggedly, but increasing in speed +as they felt how hopeless was the struggle against antagonists +who could pour in ten shots to their one. Indeed, at this +point they were outnumbered even by the 4th alone, for they +were in no regular order, but in groups and knots scattered +over the whole plain. The 4th advanced rapidly, driving +their antagonists before them, and followed by the native +regiments. So fast was the advance that numbers of the +enemy could not regain the road to the fortress, but were +driven away to the right, off the plateau, on to the side of a +ravine, from which the rockets again drove them, still further +<pb n="380"/><anchor id="Pg380"/>to the right, and away from Magdala. The 4th and other +regiments formed up at a few hundred yards from the foot of +the ascent to the fortress, and for half-an-hour maintained an +animated fire against the riflemen who lined the path, and +kept up a brisk return from small rifle-pits and the shelter of +stones and rocks. All this time the guns upon Fahla and +some of those upon Salamgi, kept up a constant fire upon an +advancing line; but the aim was very bad, and most of the +shot went over our heads. Much more alarming were our +own rockets, some of which came in very unpleasant proximity +to us. Presently, to our great relief, the sailors joined +us, and soon drove the enemy’s riflemen up the hill, after +which they threw a few salvos of rockets with admirable aim +up at the guns a thousand feet above us, doing, as it afterwards +turned out, considerable damage, and nearly killing +Theodore himself, who was superintending the working of the +gun by his German prisoners. In the mean time a much +more serious contest was taking place upon our left. The +main body of the enemy had taken this direction to attack +the baggage, and advanced directly towards the Punjaub +Pioneers, who were defending the head of the road. Fortunately +Colonel Penn’s mountain train of steel guns, which +were following the naval train, now arrived at the top of +the road, instantly unloaded, and took their places by the side +of the Punjaubees. When the enemy were within three +hundred yards the steel guns opened with shell, the Punjaubees +poured in their fire and speedily stopped the advance +of the head of the column. The greater part of the natives then +went down the ravine to the left, along which they proceeded +to the attack of the baggage, in the main valley of which this +ravine was a branch. The baggage-guard, composed of a +detach<pb n="381"/><anchor id="Pg381"/>ment of the 4th, scattered along the long line, had already been +warned by the guns of the fortress that an attack was impending, +and Captain Aberdie, of the transport train, gallopping +down, brought them word of the advancing body of the +enemy. The various officers upon duty instantly collected +their men. Captain Roberts was in command, and was well +seconded by Lieutenants Irving, Sweeny, and Durrant of +the 4th, and by the officers of the transport train. +</p> + +<p> +As the enemy poured down the ravine they were received +by a withering fire from the deadly Snider. A portion +of the Punjaubees came down the ravine and took them in +flank, and some of the guns of Penn’s battery, getting upon +a projecting spur, scattered death everywhere amongst them. +From the extreme rapidity of the fire of the Snider, the +firing at this time in different parts of the field was as heavy +and continuous as that of a general action between two large +armies. The Punjaubees behaved with great gallantry and +charged with the bayonet, doing great execution. The natives, +who had fought with great pluck, now attempted to +escape up the opposite side of the ravine, but great numbers +were shot down as they did so, their white dresses offering a +plain mark to our riflemen; at last, however, the remnant +gained the opposite bank, and fled across the country to our +left, their retreat to Magdala being cut off. The action, from +the first to the last gun, lasted an hour and a half. It was, +as far as our part of the fray was concerned, a mere skirmish. +We had not a single man killed, and only about thirty +wounded, most of them slightly. Captain Roberts, however, +was hit in the elbow-joint with a ball, and will, it is +feared, lose his arm. On the other hand, to the enemy this +is a decisive and crushing defeat. Upwards of five thousand +<pb n="382"/><anchor id="Pg382"/>of Theodore’s bravest soldiers sallied out; scarcely as many +hundreds returned. Three hundred and eighty bodies were +counted the next morning, and many were believed to have +been carried off in the night. Very many fell on the slope +of the hill, and away in the ravines to our right and left, +where our burying-parties could not find them. Certainly +five hundred were killed, probably twice as many were +wounded, and of these numbers have only crawled away to +die. It was a terrible slaughter, and could hardly be called a +fight, between disciplined bodies of men splendidly armed, +and scattered parties of savages scarcely armed at all. Much +as the troops wish for an opportunity of distinguishing themselves, +I have heard a general hope expressed that we shall +not have to storm the place, for there is but little credit to be +gained over these savages, and the butchery would be very +great. The natives are, however, undoubtedly brave, and +behaved really very gallantly. Not a single shield, gun, or +spear has been picked up except by the side of the dead. +The living, even the wounded, retreated; they did not fly. +There was no <hi rend="italic">sauve qui peut</hi>, no throwing away of arms, as +there would have been under similar desperate circumstances +by European troops. As the troops returned to the rear we +passed many sad spectacles. In one hollow a dozen bodies +lay in various positions. Some had died instantaneously, shot +through the head; others had fallen mortally wounded, and +several of these had drawn their robes over their faces, and +died like Stoics. Some were only severely wounded, and +these had endeavoured to crawl into bushes, and there lay +uttering low moans. Their gaudy silk bodices, the white +robes with scarlet ends which had flaunted so gaily but two +hours since, now lay dabbled with blood, and dank with the +<pb n="383"/><anchor id="Pg383"/>heavy rains which had been pitilessly coming down for the +last hour. +</p> + +<p> +I have omitted to mention that a tremendous thunderstorm +had come on while the engagement was at its height, +and the deep roar of the thunder had for a time completely +drowned the heavy rattle of musketry, the crack of the steel +guns, and the boom of the heavy cannon upon Fahla. Once, +when the storm was at its height, the sun had shone brightly +out through a rift of the thunder-clouds, and a magnificent +rainbow shone over the field upon which the combatants were +still fiercely contending. Only twice was the voice of man +heard loudly during the fight. The first was a great cheer +from the natives upon the hill, and which we could only +conjecture was occasioned by the return unharmed of some +favourite chief. The other was the cheer which the whole +British force gave as the enemy finally retired up into their +strongholds. Thus terminated, soon after six o’clock, one of +the most decided and bloody skirmishes which, perhaps, ever +occurred. It will be, moreover, memorable as being the first +encounter in which British troops ever used breech-loading +rifles. Tremendous as was the fire, and great as was the +slaughter, I am of opinion, and in this many of the military +men agree with me, that the number of the enemy killed +would have been at least as great had the troops been armed +with the Enfield. The fire was a great deal too rapid. Men +loaded and fired as if they were making a trial of rapidity of +fire, and I saw several instances in which only two or three +natives fell among a group, the whole of which would have +been mown down had the men taken any aim whatever. At +the end of an hour there was scarcely a cartridge left of the +ninety rounds which each man carried into action, and the +<pb n="384"/><anchor id="Pg384"/>greater portion of them were fired away in the first quarter +of an hour. The baggage-guard used up all their stock, and +were supplied with fresh ammunition from the reserve which +they guarded. Against close bodies of men the breech-loader +will do wonders. In the gorges, where the natives +were clustered thickly together, it literally mowed them down. +Upon the open not one shot in a hundred told. In a great +battle the ammunition, at this rate of expenditure, would be +finished in an hour. From what I saw of the fighting, I am +convinced that troops should, if possible, load at the muzzle +when acting as skirmishers, and at the breech only when in +close conflict against large bodies of cavalry or infantry. It +is all very well to order men to fire slowly, a soldier’s natural +eagerness when he sees his enemy opposite to him will impel +him to load and fire as quickly as possible. He cannot +help it, nor can he carry more than sixty rounds of ammunition, +which will not last him twenty minutes. It certainly +appears to me that a soldier’s rifle should combine +breech- and muzzle-loading, and that he should only use the +former method when specially ordered by his commanding +officer. +</p> + +<p> +The troops retired amidst a heavy rain, and were marched +back to the camp they had left to fetch their greatcoats and +blankets, which had been left behind when they advanced to +the fight. Then they returned to the ground held by the +Punjaubees, and took their station for the night, as they here +guarded the top of the road, at which the baggage was now +arriving, it having been kept back during the fight. It was +perfectly dark before we reached our camping-ground, and +as this was in many places covered with thorns and bushes, +which in the darkness were quite invisible, very considerable +<pb n="385"/><anchor id="Pg385"/>confusion prevailed. Now that the excitement was over, +everyone was again tormented with thirst, but it was felt less +than it would otherwise have been, owing to the thorough +soaking which every man had got. Of course there was no +getting at the baggage, which remained on a flat behind us, +and everyone wrapped himself in his wet blanket and lay +down to snatch a little sleep if he could, and to forget hunger +and thirst for a while. As we had marched before daybreak, +and went into action long before any of the baggage-animals +came up, no one had taken food for the whole of the long +and fatiguing day. Very strong bodies of troops were thrown +out as pickets, and the whole were got up and under arms +at two in the morning, lest Theodore should renew his attack +before daybreak. There was now news that there was water +to be had in a ravine to our left, and the bheesties were sent +down with the water-skins, and numbers of the soldiers also +went down with their canteens. The water was worse than +any I ever drank before, and ever think to drink again. +Numbers of animals, mules or cattle, had been slaughtered +there; it appeared, in fact, to have been a camp of Theodore’s +army. The stench was abominable, and the water was +nearly as much tainted as the atmosphere. The liquid mud +we had drank the day before was, in comparison, a healthy +and agreeable fluid. However, there was no help for it, and +few, if any, refused the noxious fluid. This climate must +certainly be an extraordinarily healthy one; for, in spite of +hardship and privation, of wet, exposure, bad water, and +want of stimulants, the health of the troops has been unexceptionally +good. Only once, at Gazoo, have we had threatenings +of dysentery, and this passed away as soon as we moved +forward. I question if we had a single man in hospital upon +<pb n="386"/><anchor id="Pg386"/>the day of the fight, which is certainly most providential, +considering the extreme paucity of medical comforts, and the +very few dhoolies available for the sick and wounded. Before +daybreak we again started—as the place upon which we +were encamped was within range of the enemy’s guns—and +marched back to this, the camping-ground of the preceding +afternoon. +</p> + +<p> +The 2d brigade arrived soon after daylight, and took up +their camp a little in the rear of the position in which we had +passed the night. Our baggage came on with us, and we +had now the satisfaction of being in our tents again, and of +getting what we greatly needed—food. After breakfast I +rode over to the camp of the 2d brigade, and then, leaving +my horse, went down into the ravine, where fatigue-parties +were engaged in the work of burial. The scene was very +shocking. In one or two narrow gorges in which they had +been pent up, fifty or sixty dead bodies lay almost piled together. +Very ghastly were their wounds. Here was a man +nearly blown to pieces with a shell; near him another the +upper part of whose head had been taken off by a rocket; then +again, one who lay as if in a peaceful sleep, shot through +the heart; next to him one less fortunate, who, by the nature +of his wound, must have lingered in agony for hours through +the long night before death brought a welcome relief. +Two of them only still lived, and these were carried into +camp; but their wounds were of so desperate a nature that +it was probable they could not live many hours. Strangely +enough, there were no wounds of a trifling nature. All who +had not been mortally wounded had either managed to +crawl away, or had been removed by their friends. With a +very few exceptions it was a charnel-place of dead, whose +<pb n="387"/><anchor id="Pg387"/>gaudy silk and coloured robes were in ghastly contrast with +their stiffened and contorted attitudes. Among the few survivors +was the Commander-in-chief of Theodore’s army, who +was carried to the camp. He, like the others we were able +to succour, expressed his gratitude for our kindness, and said +the affair had been a complete surprise to them. They saw +what was apparently a train of baggage without any protection +whatever coming up the valley; and they had not noticed +our small body of infantry on the brow. They sallied out +therefore, anticipating little or no resistance. It certainly +speaks well for the courage of the natives, that, taken by surprise, +as they must have been, by our infantry, with the +rockets and shells, they should yet have fought as bravely and +well as they did. There can be no doubt that, had not the +fight been brought on so suddenly as it was, and had the +2d brigade been at hand, we should have gone straight up +upon the heels of the fugitives, and captured the place then +and there. As it was, although it might have been done, the +troops were too tired and exhausted to have put them at such +an arduous task; for Theodore would, no doubt, have fought +with desperation, and we should have lost many men before +we could have surmounted the hill. I say this, because it is +the opinion of many that we might have taken the place at +once, had we chosen to go on. +</p> + +<p> +Altogether it was a wonderful success, especially considering +that we fought under the disadvantage of a surprise, +and without the slightest previous plan or preparation. It +is only fortunate that we had to deal with Theodore and +Abyssinians, and not with regular troops. +</p> + +<p> +Theodore was general enough to perceive and to take +advantage of Colonel Phayre’s egregious blunder; but his +<pb n="388"/><anchor id="Pg388"/>troops were not good enough to carry out his intentions. +As to Colonel Phayre, it is not probable that we shall hear +any more of him while the expedition lasts; for Sir Robert +Napier’s long-suffering patience for once broke down, and +he opened his mind to Colonel Phayre in a way which that +officer will not forget for the rest of his life. +</p> + +<p> +Before I left camp for my ride to the ravine, an event of +great interest occurred, but which I deferred mentioning in +its place, as I wished to complete my description of the battle +and field without a break. At half-past seven, just as I was +at breakfast, I heard a great cheering and hurrahing, and +found that Lieutenant Prideaux and Mr. Flad had come in +with proposals from Theodore. This was a great relief to +us all, as there was considerable fear that Theodore, in a fit +of rage at his defeat the day before, might have put all the +captives to death. This, however, was not the case. The +prisoners had indeed passed an unenviable afternoon while +the battle was going on; but Prideaux and Blanc consoled +each other, as they heard the heavy firing of our rifles, that +at least, if they were to die that night, they were to some +extent avenged beforehand. These two gentlemen have +throughout written in a spirit of pluck and resignation which +does them every honour. +</p> + +<p> +Theodore had come in after the engagement in a rather +philosophical mood, and said, <q>My people have been out to +fight yours. I thought that I was a great man, and knew +how to fight. I find I know nothing. My best soldiers have +been killed; the rest are scattered. I will give in. Go you +into camp and make terms for me.</q> +</p> + +<p> +And so the two captives came into camp. Both looked +well and hearty, and acknowledged that, as far as eating and +<pb n="389"/><anchor id="Pg389"/>drinking go, they have been far better off than we are ourselves. +Indeed, with the exception of captivity and light +chains, the captives do not appear to have been ill-treated +for many months. They have their separate houses, their +servants, and anything they could buy with the supplies of +money sent to them. +</p> + +<p> +A horrible business took place in Magdala on the very +day before our arrival. Theodore had all the European captives +out, and before their eyes put to death three hundred +and forty prisoners, many of whom he had kept in chains for +years. Among them were men, women, and little children. +They were brought out chained, and thrown down on the +ground, their heads fastened down to their feet. Among +this defenceless and pitiable group the brutal tyrant went +with his sword and slashed right and left until he had killed +a score or so. Then, getting tired, he called out six of his +musketeers, who continued to fire among the wretched crowd +until all were despatched. Their bodies were then thrown +over a precipice. +</p> + +<p> +There is a general feeling of surprise expressed in camp +that the Englishmen who were witnesses of this horrible spectacle, +and who were themselves unfettered, did not make a +rush upon the monster and cut him down then and there. +They could hardly have increased their own danger, for +they tell us that they expected that they themselves would +be put to death after the murder of the native prisoners. +Besides, in the presence of so dreadful a butchery as this +must have been, a man does not calculate—he feels; and the +impulse to rush with a scream upon the drunken tyrant +and to kill him would, one would think, have been overpowering. +</p> + +<pb n="390"/><anchor id="Pg390"/> + +<p> +The captives describe the usual mode of execution, by +cutting-off the hands and feet, as being a refinement of +cruelty. A slight gash is made round the member, and it +is then wrenched-off by main force, the arteries being so +much twisted that very little loss of blood takes place. The +wretched beings are then left to die; and some of them linger +for many days, and then expire of thirst more than of their +wounds, it being death to administer either food or water to +them. +</p> + +<p> +We can feel no pity for this inhuman monster; and +should he resist, there is every hope that he will be killed +in the fight. Sir Robert Napier declined to grant any conditions +whatever, demanding an instant surrender of the +whole of the prisoners and of the fortress, promising only +that Theodore and his family should be honourably treated. +With this answer the two captives returned, but came back +again at three o’clock with a message from Theodore, begging +that better terms might be offered him. Sir Robert +Napier was most reluctantly obliged to refuse, and the captives +again returned amidst the sorrowful anticipations of the +camp. At half-past six, to the great joy of all, Mr. Flad +came in with the news that the captives would all be in in +an hour; and at seven the whole of them came in safe and +sound, with the exception of Mrs. Flad and her children. +She, being unable to walk, had been left behind by the carelessness +or haste of Rassam, to whom the business had been +intrusted by Theodore. This person, Rassam, is very unpopular +among the rest of the prisoners; the only person who +seems to have liked him being Theodore himself, to whom +his demeanour, so different from that of Prideaux and Blanc, +had to a certain extent ingratiated him. I trust that +to-<pb n="391"/><anchor id="Pg391"/>morrow will see Mrs. Flad and her children safe in the camp, +and then one of the objects of our expedition will have been +completely and satisfactorily attained. Theodore has until +mid-day to surrender Magdala; and if he does not do so, we +shall storm it to-morrow night or next day. Some more +scaling-ladders are in process of preparation, the materials +being the long bamboo dhoolie-poles for the sides, and the +handles of pickaxes for the rungs. The ladders are about +five feet wide and twenty long. +</p> + +<p> +I close this letter now; but anticipate that my next, describing +the fall of Magdala, will be in time for the same +post by which this reaches England. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="April 12th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="April 12th"/> + +<dateline>April 12th.</dateline> + +<p> +Contrary to expectation, the day has passed-off without +event. One reason for this was, that Mrs. Flad and her +children were still in Theodore’s hands, as also were some of +the European workmen. At two o’clock, however, they came +in; and we have now the whole of the captives safe in our +hands. We have quite a native camp within our own, indeed, +so large is the number of their attendants and following. +The principal English prisoners have done very well with the +money constantly supplied to them; but many of the German +workmen have a miserably pinched and starved appearance. +There are several half-castes among the party that have come +in; their fathers being English or other Europeans who have +resided in Abyssinia, their mothers natives. The natives +who have come in have an idea that wearing a piece of red +cloth round the head is a sign of friendliness to us, and they +<pb n="392"/><anchor id="Pg392"/>therefore are generally so adorned. The released captives +start to-morrow for England. Theodore this morning sent +down a thousand cattle and five hundred sheep as a propitiatory +offering; but Sir Robert Napier refused to receive them, +and has sent-in a renewed demand for the surrender of the +fortress. It has been all day thought that the assault would +take place to-night, or rather at daybreak to-morrow. No +orders have, however, yet been issued, and it is now believed +that the attack will take place to-morrow, in which case it is +doubtful whether any description of the affair will reach you, +as I had hoped, by this mail. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Ten o'clock P.M."/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Ten o'clock P.M."/> + +<dateline><date>Ten o’clock <hi rend="small">P.M.</hi></date></dateline> + +<p> +I have just received certain information that the attack is +postponed. Sir Robert Napier, one of the kindest-hearted +of men, has sent-off a letter this evening to Theodore, urging +him to surrender, with a promise that his life shall be spared, +and the lives of all his men. He has pointed out to him that +his men cannot possibly resist our superior weapons; that cannon +greatly superior to those we used in the fight of Good +Friday have now arrived, and also the rest of our forces; so +that our success is certain. He has therefore implored him +to surrender, and to save any further effusion of blood, if not +for his own sake, at any rate for that of the women and children, +of whom alone it is said that there are 7000 in the +fortress. I most earnestly trust that Theodore will consent +to the appeal. Of course, the effusion of blood is to him, who +only three days ago murdered 350 men, a matter of small +moment. Still his own courage is failing. He yesterday, +when he heard of the terms demanded, pretended to attempt +to commit suicide, and fired a revolver close to his head; but +<pb n="393"/><anchor id="Pg393"/>the ball only grazed his neck. This, however, shows that his +courage is failing: a brave man will never commit suicide; +still less will he, if driven by desperation to the act, inflict +only a slight wound upon himself. It is evident that he is +now afraid; and I trust that to save his own miserable life +he will surrender, and so save the butchery that must ensue +if we storm Magdala. +</p> + +<p> +To-day being Easter Sunday, we had, as usual, a church-parade, +and our chaplain read the thanksgiving for our success, +in which I am sure all will heartily join. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Before Magdala, April 14th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Before Magdala, April 14th"/> + +<dateline>Before Magdala, April 14th.</dateline> + +<p> +When I closed my letter of the 12th, I mentioned that +Sir Robert Napier had written to Theodore, urging him most +strongly to surrender, as he had no possibility of a successful +resistance; and the destruction of life, if we were to open fire +upon Magdala, would be terrible. +</p> + +<p> +On the next morning several of the principal chiefs came +into camp, and said that they could not fight against our +troops, and would therefore surrender. They held, with +their people, Fahla and Salamgi, and would hand-over these +fortresses to us, on condition that themselves and their families +were allowed to depart with their property unharmed. +With them came Samuel, a man who has been frequently +mentioned in connection with the prisoners, both in their +own letters and in Dr. Beke’s work. This man exercised a +strongly prejudicial influence at the early period of their captivity, +but has since shown them kindness. Having been +one of Theodore’s principal advisers, one could hardly have +<pb n="394"/><anchor id="Pg394"/>expected to see him deserting his master in his adversity. +Samuel is a strongly-built man, with remarkably intelligent +features, and rather grizzly iron-gray hair, which he wears +in its natural state, and not plaited and grease-bedaubed in +the Abyssinian fashion. Sir Robert Napier accepted the +surrender, and gave permission for the departure of their +families and effects. Captain Speedy was ordered to return +with them, with fifty of the 3d Native Cavalry, under +Colonel Locke. Orders had been previously given for the +whole of the troops to parade on the flat in front of the +fortress. In half an hour after the departure of the cavalry, +the troops were formed up, and made an imposing show, the +first we have had since we landed. Hitherto the brigades +have been separated, and so large a portion of them have +been scattered along the line of baggage, that we have never +had an opportunity of seeing our real force. We could now +see that it was a very formidable body. The 33d were drawn +up 750 strong; the 4th, 450; the 45th, 400. We had now +the whole of the Beloochees, their left wing having arrived +during the night, and the whole of the Punjaubees. We had +two companies of the 10th Native Infantry, and six companies +of Sappers and Miners—altogether a very complete +body of infantry. We had Murray’s Armstrong battery, two +seven-inch mortars, Penn’s Mountain Train of steel guns, +Twiss’s Mountain Train, and the Naval Rocket Brigade—a +very respectable corps of artillery. In cavalry alone we were +wanting, having only the fifty troopers of the 3d Native Cavalry, +who had come as the Commander-in-chief’s escort, +and who had now just reached the top of the crest of Fahla. +The rest of the cavalry—namely, the 3d Dragoons, 3d and +12th Native Cavalry and Scinde Horse—had been sent round +<pb n="395"/><anchor id="Pg395"/>into the valley to cut off Theodore’s retreat. General Staveley +was, of course, in command of the division. We moved +forward, headed by the 33d, to whom, as having—of the +European regiments—borne the brunt of the advance work +throughout, was now assigned the honour of first entering +and of placing the British flag upon Magdala. They were +followed by the 45th, Murray’s and Twiss’s battery, and the +rest of the second brigade, which had not had an opportunity +of taking part in the action on Good Friday. Then came +the 4th and the rest of the 1st brigade, with the exception of +the troops who were left behind to take care of the camp. +Major Baigrie, as quartermaster-general of the 1st division, +rode in advance. +</p> + +<p> +As the long line wound up the steep ascent in Fahla the +effect was very pretty, and elicited several remarks that this +was our Easter-Monday review. On the way up we met a +large number of men, women, and children upon their way +down. Once upon the shoulder which connects Fahla and +Salamgi, we found ourselves in the midst of a surprising +scene. A perfect exodus was in progress. Many thousands +of men, women, and children were crowded everywhere, +mixed up with oxen, sheep, and donkeys. The women, children, +and donkeys were laden with the scanty possessions +of the inhabitants. Skins of grain and flour, gourds and jars +of water and ghee, blankets for coverings and tents—these +were their sole belongings. It was a Babel of noises. The +women screamed their long, quavering cry of admiration +and welcome; men shouted to each other from rock to rock; +mothers who had lost their children screamed for them, and +the children wailed back in return; sheep and goats bleated, +and donkeys and mules brayed. It was an astonishing scene. +<pb n="396"/><anchor id="Pg396"/>All seemed extremely glad to see us, and to be relieved from +the state of fear and starvation in which they had existed; +men, women, and children bent until their foreheads touched +the ground in token of submission. The men who bore no +arms carried burdens, as did the women; but the warriors +only carried their arms. The number of gaudy dresses +among the latter was surprising, and their effect was very +gay and picturesque. Shirts of red, blue, or purple brocade, +with yellow flowers, and loose trousers of the same material, +but of a different hue, were the prevailing fashion with the +chiefs. These were distinguished from the soldiers by having +silver ornaments upon their shields. At present all retained +their arms; but the 10th Native Infantry had been left at +the foot of the hill with orders to disarm them as they came +down the road. All along our march over Salamgi this +extraordinary scene continued; and we saw more people than +we have seen during the whole time we have been in Abyssinia. +The general opinion is, that there could not have been +less than thirty thousand people congregated here; and I +believe that this computation is rather under than over the +mark. +</p> + +<p> +There was a universal feeling of thankfulness that we had +not been obliged to bombard the place, as the slaughter among +this defenceless crowd of people would have been terrible. +Wherever was a level piece of ground, there their habitations +were clustered. They were mere temporary abodes—a framework +of sticks, covered with coarse grass, placed regularly +and thickly, so as to turn the rain. They were about the +size and shape of ordinary haycocks, and show that the people +must sleep, as they sit, curled almost into a ball. +</p> + +<p> +From the shoulder we climbed up the very winding road +<pb n="397"/><anchor id="Pg397"/>on the face of the natural scarps to Salamgi. The natural +strength of these positions is astounding. Fahla is tremendously +strong; but yet it is as nothing to Salamgi, which +commands it. Colonel Milward, who commands the artillery, +remarked to me that in the hands of European troops +it would be not only impregnable, but perfectly unattackable. +Gibraltar from the land side is considered impregnable; but +Gibraltar is absolutely nothing to this group of fortresses. +After capturing Fahla and Salamgi—if such a thing were +possible—an attacking force would still have Magdala to deal +with; and Magdala rises from the end of the flat shoulder +which connects it with Salamgi in an unbroken wall, except +at the one point where a precipitous road leads up to the +gate. It is 2500 yards from the top of Salamgi to Magdala, +and even the heaviest artillery could do nothing against the +wall of rock. We may well congratulate ourselves that +Theodore sent his army to attack our baggage; for had they +remained and defended the place, provided as they were with +forty cannon, our loss would have been very heavy; and +even with our superior weapons it is a question whether we +could have succeeded, the road in many cases winding along +the face of a precipice, which a few men from above merely +rolling down stones could have cleared. When we had +reached the brow of Salamgi—a still higher scarp of which +rose two hundred feet above us—Major Baigrie halted for +orders, and I rode on with two or three others to the little +body of the 3d Native Cavalry, who were half a mile further +on, at the edge of the flat between Salamgi and Magdala. +</p> + +<p> +I should say that early in the morning we had received +news that Theodore had left in the night with a small body +of his adherents, and intended to gain the camp of the Queen +<pb n="398"/><anchor id="Pg398"/>of the Gallas, and to throw himself upon her hospitality, the +Gallas being wandering tribes, who, like the Arabs, would +protect their bitterest enemy if he reached their tents and +claimed hospitality. When we were nearly at the top of the +hill, we had received a message from the cavalry, saying that +there was a rumour that Theodore had returned, and had +committed suicide. +</p> + +<p> +When we reached the cavalry, however, we found a state +of some excitement prevailing: some eight or ten horsemen, +among whom Captain Speedy had recognised Theodore himself, +having just galloped up brandishing spears and discharging +their muskets in defiance. Colonel Locke could +not, of course, charge without orders; and, indeed, it would +have been most imprudent to do so, as the whole of the +shoulder, a quarter of a mile wide, and six or seven hundred +yards to the fort of Magdala, were covered with the little +huts, behind and in which any number of men might be +concealed. Colonel Locke then threw-out a few of his men +as skirmishers. The horsemen continued to gallop about, +sometimes approaching to within three hundred yards, sometimes +dashing across the plateau as if they meditated a descent +into the valley far below by one of the winding paths +which led down. To prevent this, Colonel Locke called to +five or six soldiers of the 33d, and two or three artillerymen, +who had somehow got separated from their corps and had +come down towards us, to take up a position to command +the path, and to open fire if the horsemen attempted to go +down it. +</p> + +<p> +At the same time we saw upon the top of Salamgi, behind +us, a company of the 33d, who had gone up there to plant +the colours. Colonel Locke had the advance blown, and +<pb n="399"/><anchor id="Pg399"/>signalled to them to come down to command the opposite +side of the shoulder, in case the horsemen might attempt to +descend into the valley by any path which might exist upon +that side. The horsemen again moved in and discharged their +rifles at us; and the cavalry keeping their places, our little +party of 33d answered with their Sniders. As they did so, +they moved forward, and in another hundred yards we came +upon no less than twenty cannon, which Theodore had, no +doubt, intended to have moved across into Magdala, but had +had no time to accomplish. These were, of course, taken +possession of; and, as an officer remarked with a laugh to +me, it is probably the first time that twenty guns were ever +captured in the face of an enemy by six men of the line, two +artillerymen, three or four officers, and the press. In the +tumbrils of the guns were their ammunition; and Lieutenant +Nolan, of the Artillery, assisted by two artillerymen, Captain +Speedy, and the civilians, at once proceeded to load them, +and opened fire with ball upon the foot-men, a hundred or +so of whom we could now see clustered at the foot of the road +up to Magdala; the 33d men keeping up a fire upon the +horsemen and a few foot-men running over the plains, and +who occasionally answered; and the company of the 33d, who +had now come down nearly to the foot of the slope behind us, +also opening fire. It was one of the funniest scenes I ever +saw. There was Magdala at 500 yards’ distance, with its +garrison keeping up a scattered fire at us, none of the bullets, +however, reaching so far; there were a few shots from behind +the little haycock huts; there was Theodore himself galloping +about with half a dozen of his chiefs—picturesque figures in +their bright-coloured robes; and there was our little party +waging a war upon them, with not another soldier in sight, +<pb n="400"/><anchor id="Pg400"/>or, indeed, within half a mile of us. This lasted for ten +minutes or so; and then an officer rode up to order the +infantry to retire into the slope, but to keep the guns under +their fire. The cavalry had previously been ordered to retire. +In another quarter of an hour Penn’s battery came down to +us and opened fire, and the steel shells soon drove the enemy +up the road into the fortress. For a quarter of an hour they +continued their fire; and, when they had once got the range, +every shell burst close to the gateway, through which the +road passed. Then there came an order to cease firing; and +Murray’s guns, which had taken up their position upon the +top of Salamgi, Twiss’s battery more to the right, and the Naval +Rocket Brigade, took up the fire. For nearly two hours, +with occasional intervals, these guns and Twiss’s battery kept +up their fire. While this was going on, we discovered in +a small tent, a hundred yards or so in our front, the Frenchman +Bardel, who is sick with a fever, and was at once +carried to the rear. We had, too, plenty of time to examine +the guns. Some were of English, some of Indian manufacture: +all were of brass, and varied in size from a fourteen-pounder +downwards. There were two or three small mortars +among them. This was evidently the arsenal, for here were +tools and instruments of all descriptions—files, hammers, +anvils, &c. There were bags of charcoal and a forge; and +here were many hundreds of balls, varying in size from +grape-shot to immense stone balls for the giant mortar, +which shattered to pieces the other day at the first attempt +to fire it. +</p> + +<p> +At this time we made a discovery which quite destroyed +the feeling of pity which the gallantry of Theodore in exposing +himself to our fire had excited. The Beloochees had +<pb n="401"/><anchor id="Pg401"/>joined us, and were posted near the edge of a precipice to +our right. Their attention being attracted by an overpowering +stench, they looked over the edge of the rock; and +there, fifty feet below, was one of the most horrifying sights +which was ever beheld: there, in a great pile, lay the bodies +of the three hundred and fifty prisoners whom Theodore had +murdered last Thursday, and whom he had then thrown over +the edge of the precipice. There they lay—men, women, +and little children—in a putrefying mass. It was a most +ghastly sight, and recalled to our minds the horrible cruelty +of the tyrant, and quite destroyed the effect which his bravery +had produced. +</p> + +<p> +At last, at half-past three, the troops came down and +took their places; and at a quarter to four the whole of the +guns and rockets opened a tremendous fire to cover the +advance; and the 33d, preceded by a small band of Engineers +and Sappers under Major Pritchard, and followed +by the 45th, advanced to the assault, the 4th and the rest of +the first brigade retaining their places as a reserve. When +within three hundred yards of the rock, the 33d formed line +and opened fire at the gateway and high hedge which bordered +the summit of the precipice—the most tremendous fire +I ever heard. Even the thunder—which was, as during the +fight of Good Friday, roaring overhead—was lost in the +roar of the seven hundred Snider rifles, and which was re-echoed +by the rocks in their front. Under cover of this +tremendous fire the Engineers and the leading company +advanced up the path. When they were half-way up, the +troops ceased firing, and the storming-party scrambled up +at a run. All this time answering flashes had come back +from a high wall which extended for some feet at the side +<pb n="402"/><anchor id="Pg402"/>of the gateway, and from behind the houses and rocks +near it. When the Engineers, headed by Major Pritchard, +reached the gateway, several shots were fired through loopholes +in the wall, and two or three men staggered back +wounded, Major Pritchard himself receiving two very slight +flesh-wounds in the arm. The men immediately put their +rifles through the holes, and kept up a constant fire, so as to +clear-away their enemies from behind it. +</p> + +<p> +Then there was a pause, which for a time no one understood; +but at last a soldier forced his way down the crowded +path with the astounding intelligence that the Engineers, who +had headed the storming-party for the purpose of blowing the +gate in, had actually forgotten to take any powder with them! +Neither had they crowbars, axes, or scaling-ladders. General +Staveley at once despatched an officer to bring up powder +from the artillery-wagons. +</p> + +<p> +The 45th opened fire to prevent the enemy’s skirmishers +doing damage; and a few pioneers of the 45th were sent up +with axes to force open the gate. In the mean time, however, +the men of the 33d, upon the road leading up to the +gate, discovered a spot half-way up, by which they were able +to scramble up to the left, and, getting through the hedge, +they quickly cleared away the defenders of the gate. A large +portion of the regiment entered at this spot, the gate not +being fairly opened for a quarter of an hour after the storming-party +arrived at it; for when it was broken down, it was +found that the gate-house was filled with very large stones; +and therefore, had powder been at hand, and the gate been +blown in, a considerable time must have elapsed before the +party could have entered. Behind the gateway were a cluster +of huts, many of whose inhabitants still remained in them in +<pb n="403"/><anchor id="Pg403"/>spite of the heavy fire which had for two hours been kept up. +Behind them was a natural scarp of twenty-five or thirty feet +high, with a flight of steps wide enough only for a single +man to ascend at a time. At the top of this was another +gate, which had been blown open by the rifles of the 33d. I +entered with the rear of the regiment; but all was by that +time over. By the first gateway were six or seven bodies, +and two or three men by the second. Beyond this was the +level plateau, thickly scattered with the native huts of their +ordinary construction—not the haycock-fabrics which had +covered the other hills and plateau. At a hundred yards +from the gate lay the body of Theodore himself, pierced with +three balls, one of which, it is said, he fired with his own +hand. He was of middle height and very thin, and the +expression of his face in death was mild rather than the +reverse. He had thrown-off the rich robe in which he had +ridden over the plain, and was in an ordinary chief’s red-and-white +cloth. +</p> + +<p> +The fighting was now over. A hundred men or so had +escaped down a path upon the other side of the fortress, +and the rest of the defenders had fled into their houses, and +emerged as peaceable inhabitants without their weapons. +Nothing could be more admirable than the behaviour of the +33d. I did not see a single instance of a man either of this +or of the regiment which followed attempting to take a single +ornament or other article from the person of any of the natives. +These latter thronged out of their houses, bearing their +household goods, and salaaming to the ground, as they made +their way towards the gate of the fort. I went into several +of the abandoned huts; they contained nothing but rubbish. +A few goats and cattle stood in the enclosures, and bags of +<pb n="404"/><anchor id="Pg404"/>grain were in plenty. The poor people had been well content +to escape with their lives, and with what they could +carry away on their own shoulders and those of their pack-animals. +</p> + +<p> +I presently met an affecting procession. These were the +native prisoners. Laden with heavy feet-chains were at +least a hundred poor wretches who had lingered for years in +the tyrant’s clutches. Many of them were unable to walk, +and were carried along by their friends. We pitied them +vastly more than we have done the prisoners sent in to us, +who, with commodious tents, numbers of servants, and plentiful +supplies of money and food, have had a far better time +of it than these poor wretches of natives. They endeavoured +in every way to express their joy and thankfulness. They +bent to the ground, they cried, they clapped their hands; +and the women—at least such as were not chained—danced, +and set-up their shrill cry of welcome. Very kind were the +soldiers to them, and not a few gave-up their search for odd +articles of plunder to set-to with hammer and chisel to remove +their chains. There were some hundreds of huts upon +the flat plateau, but not one of them bore any signs of the +bombardment; and fortunately the great distance at which +the guns were fired had saved the inhabitants from the injury +which they must otherwise have suffered from the needless +bombardment. A few people had been wounded when +the 33d had first entered, but their number was very small; +and it seems incredible that out of so large a population only +some ten or fifteen, and these the defenders of the gate, were +killed. +</p> + +<p> +The huts were all of the same size and description—stone +walls with conical roofs, and no light except that which +en<pb n="405"/><anchor id="Pg405"/>tered by the door. The King himself lived in a tent. His +wife, or I should rather say wives, lived in a house precisely +similar in shape, but larger than the other tents. One +or two of these poor women were among the wounded, having +rushed wildly about the place before the firing ceased, and +being struck by stray bullets. It is extremely satisfactory to +know that no lives, with the exception of those of the actual +fighting-men, were sacrificed. +</p> + +<p> +We have no killed, but have ten or fifteen wounded, +most of them very slightly. One of the Punjaubees who +was wounded in the fight three days before has since died. +The loot obtained by the soldiers was generally of the most +trifling description. Pieces of the hangings of the King’s +tent, bits of tawdry brocade, and such-like, are the general +total. A very few got some gold crosses, and other more +valuable articles. A general order has been issued, ordering +all valuable spoil to be returned; but I do not imagine that +the amount returned will be large. All the spoil taken, with +the arms, &c., will be sold by auction in a day or two, and +the result at once divided. It is known that considerable +sums in dollars and gold have been buried, and a search +is being instituted for them, but without, I imagine, much +chance of success. In my wanderings I came upon a large +hut, which turned out to be the royal cellar. Here the +natives were serving-out <q>tedge</q>—which I have already described +as a drink resembling small-beer and lemonade mixed, +with a very strong musty flavour—to soldiers. There were +at least a hundred large jars filled with the liquid, which the +soldiers call beer, and which, thirsty as the men were, was +very refreshing. It was now nearly six o’clock, and the +soldiers had had nothing to eat or drink since early morning. +<pb n="406"/><anchor id="Pg406"/>I should say that every soldier in the force supped that night +upon fowl. Their value here, except when offered to us +for sale, is merely nominal, and none of the people took the +trouble to take them away; consequently they were running +about in hundreds, and gave rise to many animated +chases. +</p> + +<p> +Magdala itself is about half a mile long by a quarter of +a mile wide, its narrow end joining the shoulder to Salamgi, +and as this end is rather narrow, it touches the shoulder only +for about fifty or sixty yards. At this point I should say +that the plateau of the fortress is 200 feet above the shoulder. +Upon its other side it would be 1200 feet sheer down. The +33d planted their colours upon the highest spot, and General +Napier when he entered addressed a few words to the men, +saying, <q>that they had made the attack in gallant style.</q> +Of course, as it turned out, the danger was slight; but this +does not detract from the way in which the regiment went up +to the assault; as, for anything they could tell, there might +have been hundreds of men concealed in the huts immediately +behind the gate. +</p> + +<p> +The two most valuable articles of booty which were known +to have been obtained were purchased by Mr. Holmes, of the +British Museum, for the nation, of the soldiers by whom they +were taken. The one was, one of the royal shields of Abyssinia, +one of which I described as having been borne by +Gobayze’s uncle when he visited our camp. The other is a +gold chalice, probably four or five centuries old. It has the +inscription in Amharic, of which the following is the translation: +<q>The chalice of King Adam-Squad, called Gazor, +the son of Queen Brhan, Moquera. Presented to Kwoskwan +Sanctuary (Gondar). May my body and soul be purified! +<pb n="407"/><anchor id="Pg407"/>Weight 25 wohkits of pure gold, and value 500 dollars. +Made by Waldo Giergis.</q> The name of the maker would +seem to testify that he was either the son of an Italian, or +an Italian who had adopted an Abyssinian first name. As +these acquisitions are made for the nation, Sir Robert has +decided that they are not to be given up. He has also +directed that Mr. Holmes may select such other articles as +may be suited to the Museum before the auction takes +place. +</p> + +<p> +The second brigade passed the night in Magdala, and still +remain there; the first brigade returned to camp, which they +did not reach until a very late hour. The aspect of the hill +of Salamgi, and of the plains below it, was very striking, as +I rode through it at night. The great emigrant population +had encamped there, and their innumerable fires had a very +pretty effect. During the night a very scandalous act of +theft and sacrilege took place. The coffin of the late Abuna, +a high priest, was broken open; his body was torn almost +to pieces, and a cross, set with precious stones of the value +of some thousands of pounds, was stolen. It is quite certain +that this act was not perpetrated by our soldiers, as they of +course knew nothing either of the Abuna or his cross. Suspicion +generally points to some of the late prisoners, who +knew, what was, it appears, a matter of notoriety, that the +Abuna had purchased this extremely valuable ornament to +be buried with it. +</p> + +<p> +The expedition is now at an end. Its objects are most +successfully attained, and the interest and excitement are +over. We have now only our long and weary march back +again. The day upon which we turn our faces homeward +is not yet settled; the 20th is at present named. We shall +<pb n="408"/><anchor id="Pg408"/>probably halt at Dalanta for a day or two, and there it is +said that Gobayze will visit the Chief, and that we shall have +a grand parade. +</p> + +<p> +The opinion which the natives will entertain of us upon +our homeward march will be singularly different from those +with which they regarded us upon our advance. Then they +looked upon us as mere traders, prepared to buy, but incompetent +to fight for our countrymen in chains; now they will +regard us as the conquerors of the hitherto invincible Theodore, +and as braves, therefore, of the most distinguished +order. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Before Magdala, April 16th"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Before Magdala, April 16th"/> + +<dateline>Before Magdala, April 16th.</dateline> + +<p> +My letter describing the fall of Magdala was only written +two days ago, and I have but few scraps of intelligence to +add. These, however, I shall now send, in hopes that they +may arrive by the same mail which conveyed my last. We +have had only two excitements here; the one the perquisition—indeed, +by the way it was conducted, I may call it +inquisition—for loot; the other, the constant plunder by +those arrant thieves, the Gallas. The first orders with respect +to plunder were reasonable and sensible enough. They +were, that all articles of intrinsic value, or which might be +nationally interesting, were to be given up. This no one +objected to. It was only fair that all booty collected of any +value should be fairly divided for the benefit of the force in +general. The next order, however, was simply ridiculous, +and caused naturally a good deal of grumbling. It was +ordered that every article taken, of whatever value or description, +should be returned. Now, the men had possessed +<pb n="409"/><anchor id="Pg409"/>themselves of all sorts of small mementoes of the capture of +Magdala. Spears and glass beads, books and scraps of +dresses, empty gourds and powder-horns, all sorts of little +objects in fact, the united intrinsic value of which would not +be twenty dollars, but which were valuable mementoes to +the three or four thousand men who had picked them up—all +these were now to be given up; and so strict was the +search, that I saw even the men’s havresacks examined to see +that they had hidden nothing. The pile of objects collected +was of the most miscellaneous description, and looked like +the contents of a pawnbroker’s shop in the neighbourhood of +Whitechapel. These things were valuable to the men, as +having been collected by them in Magdala; but they will +fetch nothing whatever when sold. It is a very great pity +that the original order was not adhered to, as the men would +have all acquiesced cheerfully enough in the summons that +articles of intrinsic value should be delivered up. As it is, +the whole value of the plunder will not exceed ten thousand +dollars in value, and, indeed, I question if it will approach +that sum. The principal articles of value, with the exception +of some crosses, are of English manufacture, double-barrelled +guns, &c.; in fact, the presents which the English +Government sent out by Rassam. A medical court have examined +Theodore’s body, and have come to the conclusion +that he died by his own hand. Mr. Holmes, of the British +Museum, has taken an exceedingly good likeness of the dead +monarch; indeed, I do not know that I ever saw a more +striking resemblance. The Engineers have also taken a +photograph of him. +</p> + +<p> +The Gallas have been extremely troublesome for the last +three days. The unfortunate fugitives from Magdala are +<pb n="410"/><anchor id="Pg410"/>encamped at the foot of the hill, and are gradually moving-off +to their respective homes. Round their camp, and round +the unfortunates upon their march, the Gallas swarm in great +numbers, robbing, driving-off their cattle and donkeys, carrying-off +their women and children into captivity, and wounding, +and sometimes killing, all who oppose them. Sometimes, +too, they attempt to rob our mules and stores. We do all we +can to protect the defenceless people, and detachments are +constantly going out to drive the robbers off. The infantry, +the rocket-train, and the guns have several times had to fire, +and several of the plunderers have been killed. Eighteen are +at present prisoners in our camp, some of whom were concerned +in the murder of one of the Abyssinians. The night +before last they made an attack upon some of the mules with +the baggage of the 33d, near Magdala, but were beaten off +with the loss of several men. Now that we have got Magdala, +our difficulty is to dispose of it, and it is this only which +is keeping us waiting here. Magdala is, as I have already +said, an almost impregnable place, even in the hands of these +savages. North and west of them the people are Christians. +Whether their Christianity, or the Christianity of any savage +people, does them any good whatever, or makes them the +least more moral or better than their neighbours, it is needless +now to inquire. At any rate they are a settled people, +living by the culture of their land. To the east of these +agricultural people are the Gallas, nomadic Mussulmans, +whose hand is against every man’s, who live by robbery +and violence, and who are slavers and man-stealers of the +worst kind. Against them Magdala stands as a bulwark. +It is on the road between their country and Abyssinia proper, +and the garrison can always fall upon their rear in case +<pb n="411"/><anchor id="Pg411"/>of an attempted foray. It was therefore desirable that it +should be intrusted to some power strong enough to hold in +check this nation of robbers. Theodore’s son, who, with his +wives, has fallen into our hands, is too young to be thought +of, and there remains only Gobayze, and his rival Menilek. +Menilek in the early days of the expedition was heard a good +deal of. General Merewether was always writing about him +and his army of forty thousand men, and his great friendship; +but, like most of the gallant general’s promised lands, +Menilek’s assistance turned out a myth, and we have never +heard of him since we came within a hundred miles of Magdala. +Gobayze, on the other hand, has at any rate turned +out to be a real personage. He has never, it is true, done +the slightest thing to assist us in any way; still his uncle +paid us a visit, and nearly got shot, so that we may presume +that this uncle really has a nephew called Gobayze. Gobayze +has been written to, to come and take possession of +Magdala, but he has not arrived; but this morning his uncle +has again appeared upon the scene, and, I understand, declines, +in the name of his relative, to have anything to say to +Magdala. Magdala, in fact, except as a stronghold to retreat +to as a last resource, is absolutely valueless. It is too far removed +from the main portion of Abyssinia to be of any strategical +importance, and it would require a couple of thousand +men to garrison it, and who would have to be supplied with +provisions from a considerable distance. Gobayze wants all +his available force for the struggle he will be engaged in +with Menilek as soon as we leave the country, and he does +not at all care about detaching two thousand men to an extreme +corner of his dominions, where they could in no way +affect the issue of the war. He may change his mind; but if +<pb n="412"/><anchor id="Pg412"/>he should not do so, we shall in a couple of days start upon +our backward course, and abandon Magdala to the first comer. +The Abyssinians complain bitterly of our mode of fighting. +With them an engagement is a species of duel. Both sides +charge simultaneously, discharge their pieces, and retreat to +load, repeating the manœuvre until one side or the other has +had enough of it. They object, therefore, excessively to our +continuous advance and fire, without any pause to reload. +It is to this unseemly practice that they attribute their defeat. +</p> + +<p> +The whole army are looking forward with the greatest +eagerness for the order to retire. Existence here is not a +pleasant one. The weather in the day is dry, hot, but not +unpleasant; in the afternoon we have always heavy rains, +and cold at night. Our variety of provisions is not great. +We have plenty of meat, and little flour; no rum, no tea, no +sugar, no vegetables. By the way, the commissariat actually +managed to supply the extraordinarily liberal allowance of +one dram of rum per man to the force on the day after the +capture of Magdala. But our great want is water. We are +literally without water. A mile and a half off is a limited +quantity, but it is very limited indeed, and stinks abominably; +so bad is it, that it is difficult to distinguish what one +is drinking, even if one is fortunate enough to procure tea or +coffee; and even of this there is not sufficient for drinking +purposes alone, and a man enters another tent and asks as +eagerly for a cup of water as if it were the choicest of drinks. +Washing is altogether out of the question; and the animals +have to be taken down to the muddy Bachelo, fifteen hundred +feet below us, and six miles distant, for their daily draught. +Decidedly the sooner we are out of this the better. At present +the 18th is the happy day decided upon; and I earnestly +<pb n="413"/><anchor id="Pg413"/>hope that nothing will occur to postpone our departure. Some +of the troops will certainly start to-day or to-morrow. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 30%"/> +</div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="Antalo, May 1st"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Antalo, May 1st"/> + +<dateline>Antalo, May 1st.</dateline> + +<p> +There are few things of less interest than the closing +chapter of a campaign. The excitement and anxiety, the +success and triumph, are over; the curtain has fallen upon +the play, and we have only to put on our wraps and go home. +Even by the present date the telegraph has told England of +the success with which the expedition has been crowned. +When he has once read the details, the English reader will, +after the first little burst of natural pride and satisfaction, sit +himself down with a slight sigh to count the cost, and then +endeavour, as far as possible, to forget the unpleasant subject. +I feel that the heading of my letter, <q>The Abyssinian Expedition,</q> +will no longer be an attractive one. Epilogues are +gone out of fashion, and are only retained as a relic of the +past at the annual play of the Westminster boys. I should +imagine that at the end of a modern play very few people +would sit-out an epilogue; and in the same way, I anticipate +that very few readers will care for hearing any more about +the barren and mountainous country in which it has been our +lot to sojourn for the last six months. I should imagine that +they must be nearly as weary of the subject as we are ourselves. +Never certainly in my experience have special correspondents +had so hard or so ungrateful a task as that which +has devolved upon us here. The country through which the +army has marched has been barren and mountainous in the +extreme. The actual events have been few and far between. +<pb n="414"/><anchor id="Pg414"/>There has been no opportunity for generalship or strategical +movement. It has been one long, slow, monotonous march, +accompanied with more or less hardship to all concerned. It +has presented no points of comparison with the shifting scenes +and exciting phases of a European campaign. It is only by +its results, and by the remembrance of the hostile criticisms +and lugubrious prophecies with which it was assailed in its +early days, that we ourselves can judge of the difficulty of the +task accomplished, and of the way in which the world will +view it. It has to us been simply a monotony of hard work +and hard living. Until the last week of our march we had +no excitement whatever to enliven it; and, as far as the +incidents of the campaign have been concerned, there has +been but little to recompense the British taxpayer for his +outlay. In other respects there is no doubt that, worthless +as were the set of people as a whole in whose favour this +costly expedition has been undertaken, the money has been +well spent. In no other way, with so comparatively small +an outlay, could Great Britain have recovered the prestige +which years of peace had undoubtedly much impaired +both in Europe and the East. England has shown that +she can go to war really for an idea; that she can embark +in a war so difficult, hazardous, and costly, that no other +European Power would have undertaken it under similar circumstances, +and this, without the smallest idea of material +advantage to herself. England had, <hi rend="italic">pace</hi> our French critics, +no possible benefit to derive from the conquest or occupation +of Abyssinia. With Aden and Perim in our power, the Red +Sea is virtually an English lake, and the possession of Abyssinia, +hundreds of miles from the port of Annesley Bay, which +in itself is quite out of the track of vessels between Suez and +<pb n="415"/><anchor id="Pg415"/>Aden, would be a source of weakness rather than of additional +strength. The war was undertaken purely from a generous +national impulse, aggravated by the feeling that the captivity +of our unfortunate countrymen was due to no fault of their +own, but attributable to the gross blundering of the men to +whom the foreign affairs of the nation were unfortunately +intrusted. Our success has been astonishing even to ourselves, +and has been providentially accomplished in the face +of blunders and mistakes which would have ruined any other +expedition. +</p> + +<p> +In my last letter I stated that Gobayze had declined to accept +the charge of Magdala. It was consequently determined +to burn it; and on the 18th ultimo fire was applied, and in a +very short time the whole of the thatched tents were in a +blaze. The wind was blowing freshly at the time, and in +a few minutes the whole of the plateau of Magdala was +covered with a fierce blaze, which told to the surrounding +country for miles that the last act of atonement was being +inflicted. Had the scene taken place at night, it would +have been grand in the extreme; but even in broad day the +effect of the sheet of flame, unclouded as it was by smoke—for +the dry roofs burned like tinder—was very fine. Imagine +a gigantic farmyard of three-quarters of a mile long by nearly +half a mile wide, and containing above 300 hayricks, in a +blaze; and the effect of burning Magdala may be readily conceived. +Simultaneously with the conflagration the gates were +blown up and the pieces of ordnance burst; and then the +troops who had been told-off for the task retired from the +scene of their signal success to join their comrades, and march +the next day for the sea-shore. I started for Dalanta the +day before the departure of the troops, and was very glad +<pb n="416"/><anchor id="Pg416"/>that I did so, as I thereby avoided the tremendous confusion +of the baggage, part of which was nearly thirty hours upon +the road, and witnessed one of the most extraordinary scenes +I ever beheld. At the Bachelo river I came upon the van +of the principal column of the fugitives from Magdala, who +had encamped upon the previous night by the stream. Here +the number of empty gourds, cooking-vessels, and rubbish +of all kinds, showed that, scanty as their baggage was, it +was already too great for their means of transport. A mile +farther I came upon their rear. As far as the eye could +reach up the winding path to the summit of the gorge, they +swarmed in a thick gray multitude. Thirty thousand human +beings, men, women, and children, besides innumerable animals +of all kinds. Never, probably, since the great Exodus +from Egypt, was so strange a sight witnessed. All were +laden; for once, the men had to share the labours of their +wives and families; and indeed I may say that the males of +this portion of Abyssinia are less lazy, and more willing to +bear their share of the family-labours, than were the men of +Tigre, who, as I before mentioned, never condescend to assist +their wives in any way. The men carried bags of grain—which, +by the way, the men always carry on one shoulder, +and not upon their backs as the women do; the women were +similarly burdened, and in addition had gourds of water and +ghee, with a child or two clinging round their necks. The +children, too, carried their share of the household goods, all +but the very little ones; and these, little, naked, pot-bellied +things, trotted along holding by their mothers’ skirts. A +few, who in the crowd and confusion had lost their friends, +sat down and cried pitifully; but as a general thing they +kept steadily up the steep ascent, which was trying enough +<pb n="417"/><anchor id="Pg417"/>to men, to say nothing of these poor little mites. Although +an involuntary exodus, it did not appear to me to cause any +pain or regret to anyone. Neither upon this occasion nor +upon the day when they quitted Magdala did I see a tear +shed, or witness any demonstrations of grief. Now, the +Abyssinians are an extremely demonstrative people, and weep +and wail copiously and obstreperously over the smallest fancied +grievance; consequently, I cannot but think that the great +proportion of the people were glad to leave Magdala, and +to return to their respective countries. All pressed steadily +forward; there was no halting, no delay, scarce a pause to +take breath; for on their rear and flank, and sometimes in +their very midst, were the robber Gallas plundering all whom +they came across. I spoke of the Gallas in my last. Since +that time they have become even more bold and troublesome, +and not a few have fallen in skirmishes with our troops. +Soon after we had joined the body of fugitives, I heard +screams and cries in front, and riding-in at a gallop with +my friend, we came upon a number of natives in a state of +great excitement, the women crying and wringing their +hands. They pointed to a ravine, and made us understand +that the Gallas were there. Riding up to it, we came upon a +party of eight or ten men with spears and shields driving off a +couple of dozen oxen they had just stolen. Before they could +recover from their surprise we were in their midst, and our +revolvers soon sent them flying up the hill with two or three +of their number wounded. We drove back the cattle, and +were received with acclamations by the unfortunate but miserably +cowardly natives, who could only with stones have kept +their assailants at a distance, had they had the pluck of so +many sheep. A few hundred yards further on we came upon +<pb n="418"/><anchor id="Pg418"/>another party of Gallas actively engaged in looting; and at +the sight of us with our rifles and revolvers in hand, most +of them fled; but we captured two of the robbers, who saw +that throwing themselves upon their faces was the only chance +of escape from being shot. We tied their hands behind them, +and handed them over to our syces, who drove them before +them until the end of the day, when we delivered them over +to Colonel Graves of the 3d Cavalry, who was in command +at Dalanta, and had the satisfaction of seeing them get two +dozen lashes each, well laid on. After this skirmish, seeing +numbers of Gallas hanging about, we constituted ourselves +a sort of rearguard to the native column, and my double-barrelled +rifle soon drove them to a distance, the long range +at which it sent balls into groups waiting for an opportunity +of attack evidently astonishing them greatly, and causing +them to scatter in the greatest haste. I think it a question +whether the Gallas or the Abyssinians are the greatest +cowards. Two or three officers coming up later upon the +same day had skirmishes with them, and three or four of +the Gallas were killed. The natives encamped upon the +plains of Dalanta, their black blanket-tents extending over +a great extent of ground. The next day they crossed the +Djedda, and after mounting to the table-land beyond, were +safe from the attacks of the Gallas, and were able to pursue +their way to Gondar, and the other places to which they +belonged, in quiet. +</p> + +<p> +On the 20th the whole of the troops were at Dalanta, and +a grand parade took place. The troops marched past, and +were then formed into hollow square, and the following order +of the day was read to them: +</p> + +<pb n="419"/><anchor id="Pg419"/> + +<p> + <text><body> + <salute rend="text-align: left">“<hi rend="smallcaps">Soldiers of the Army of Abyssinia</hi>,</salute> + +<p> +<q rend="post: none">The Queen and the people of England intrusted to +you a very arduous and difficult expedition—to release our +countrymen from a long and painful captivity, and to vindicate +the honour of our country, which had been outraged +by Theodore, King of Abyssinia.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q rend="post: none">I congratulate you, with all my heart, for the noble +way in which you have fulfilled the commands of our Sovereign. +You have crossed many steep and precipitous ranges +of mountains, more than ten thousand feet in altitude, where +your supplies could not keep pace with you. When you +arrived within reach of your enemy, though with scanty food, +and some of you for many hours without food or water, in +four days you have passed the formidable chasm of Bachelo +and defeated the army of Theodore, which poured down upon +you from their lofty fortress in full confidence of victory. A +host of many thousands have laid down their arms at your +feet.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q rend="post: none">You have captured and destroyed upwards of thirty +pieces of artillery, many of great weight and efficiency, with +ample stores of ammunition. You have stormed the almost-inaccessible +fortress of Magdala, defended by Theodore with +the desperate remnant of his chiefs and followers. After you +forced the entrance, Theodore, who never showed mercy, distrusted +the offers of mercy which had been held out to him, +and died by his own hands. You have released not only the +British captives, but those of other friendly nations. You +have unloosed the chains of more than ninety of the principal +chiefs of the Abyssinians.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q rend="post: none">Magdala, on which so many victims have been +slaugh<pb n="420"/><anchor id="Pg420"/>tered, has been committed to the flames, and remains only a +scorched rock.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q rend="post: none">Our complete and rapid success is due—first, to the +mercy of God, whose hand I feel assured has been over us in +a just cause. Secondly, to the high spirit with which you have +been inspired. Indian soldiers have forgotten their prejudices +of race and creed to keep pace with their European comrades.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q rend="post: none">Never has an army entered on a war with more honourable +feelings than yours; this has carried you through many +fatigues and difficulties. You have been only eager for the +moment when you could close with your enemy. The remembrance +of your privations will pass away quickly, but +your gallant exploit will live in history. The Queen and the +people of England will appreciate your services. On my +part, as your commander, I thank you for your devotion to +your duty, and the good discipline you have maintained; not +a single complaint has been made against a soldier of fields +injured or villages wilfully molested, in property or person.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q rend="post: none">We must not forget what we owe to our comrades who +have been labouring for us in the sultry climate of Zulla and +the Pass of Koomaylo, or in the monotony of the posts which +maintained our communications; each and all would have +given all they possessed to be with us, and they deserve our +gratitude.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q rend="post: none">I shall watch over your safety to the moment of your +embarkation, and to the end of my life remember with pride +that I have commanded you.</q> +</p> +<signed>(Signed) <hi rend="smallcaps">R. Napier</hi>, Lieut.-general,<lb/> +Commander-in-chief.</signed> +<signed>(Signed) <hi rend="smallcaps">M. Dillon</hi>, Lieut.-colonel,<lb/> +Military Secretary.”</signed> + </body></text> +</p> + +<pb n="421"/><anchor id="Pg421"/> + +<p> +The proclamation, if a little grandiose in style, is true to +the letter. The men have endured privation and toil such as +seldom falls to a soldier’s lot, with a good feeling and cheerfulness +which has been literally beyond praise. The only occasions +throughout this expedition upon which I have heard +grumbling has been when the troops have been told by the +quartermaster’s department that they were to march a certain +distance, and when the march turned out to be half as far +again. But this grumbling was not against the distance or +the toil, great as both were; it was against the incapacity +which had inflicted an unnecessary toil upon them. At any +necessary privation, at picket-duty in wet clothes after a hard +day’s march, at hunger and thirst, fatigue-duty, wet and cold, +I never heard them grumble; and I feel assured that, as the +general order says, the people of England will appreciate their +toils and services. In one point at least they may be to some +extent rewarded. Their pay here is exactly the same as they +would have drawn in India; they have no field or other +extra allowance whatever. Had the war taken place in India, +the army would, most unquestionably, be granted a year’s +<q>batta,</q> as a reward for their suffering and toil. In the present +case the English Government holds the purse-strings, +but I trust that this well-earned extra pay will be granted. +It would form a comparatively small item in the expenses of +the expedition, and the boon would be an act of graceful recognition +on the part of the nation to the men who have borne +its flag so successfully under the most arduous and trying +circumstances. +</p> + +<p> +After the reading of the general order, Sir Robert Napier +handed over the rescued prisoners to the representatives +of the Governments to which they belonged; and the +<pb n="422"/><anchor id="Pg422"/>general feeling of every one was, that we wished these officers +joy of them, for a more unpromising-looking set could +hardly be found anywhere else outside the walls of a prison. +Sir Robert Napier, in handing these prisoners over, thanked +the foreign officers for having accompanied the expedition, +and for having shared in its toils and hardships. The +ceremony over, the last act of the Magdala drama may be +considered to have terminated, and the army on the next +day marched for the coast, the second brigade leading, and +the first following a day in their rear. The interest of the +campaign being now over, I determined to come on at full +speed, instead of travelling at the necessary slow pace of the +army with all its encumbrances of material and baggage. It +is, too, vastly more pleasant to travel alone, the journeys are +performed in two-thirds of the time, and without the dust, +noise, and endless delays which take place in the baggage-train. +At the end of the journey the change is still more advantageous: +one selects the site for one’s tent near the little +commissariat stations, but far enough off to be quiet; and here, +free from the neighing and fighting of horses and mules, the +challenge of the sentries, the chattering of the native troops, +who frequently talk until past midnight, and the incessant +noise of coughing and groaning, and other unpleasant noises +in which a Hindoo delights when he is not quite well, we pass +the night in tranquillity. The hyenas and jackals are, it is +true, a little troublesome, and howl and cry incessantly about +the canvas of our tent; but the noise of a hyena is as music +compared to the coughing and groaning of a sick Hindoo; and +so we do not grumble. We have a party of four, making, +with our ten servants, syces, and mule-drivers, a pretty strong +party; no undesirable thing, as the country is extremely +dis<pb n="423"/><anchor id="Pg423"/>turbed all the way down. Convoys are constantly attacked, +and the muleteers murdered; indeed, scarce a day passes +without an outrage of this kind. It is, perhaps, worst between +Lât and Atzala; but beyond Antalo, and down even in +the Sooro Pass, murders are almost daily events. The killing +is not all on one side, for numbers of the natives have been +shot by the guards of the convoys which they have attacked. +The evil increases every day, and the Commander-in-chief +has just issued a proclamation to the natives, which is to be +translated into Amharic and circulated through the country, +warning the people that the scouts have orders to fire upon +any armed party they may meet, who do not, upon being +called upon to do so, at once retire and leave the path clear. +The fact is, that, except at this point, we have not enough +troops in the country to furnish guards of sufficient strength +to protect the convoys. A great many very wise people have +talked about our force being too large. At the present moment +it is actually insufficient for our needs, insufficient to +protect our convoys even against the comparatively few robbers +and brigands who now infest the line. A convoy of a +thousand animals extends over a very long tract of country; +three or four miles at the least. What can a dozen or so +guards do to protect it? An instance occurred to-day within +three miles of this place. A convoy of a thousand camels +were coming along; the guards were scattered over its +length; and a man in the middle of the convoy was murdered +by three or four Abyssinians, whom the soldiers, who had +gone on, had noticed sitting quietly on some rocks at a few +yards from the line of march. The soldiers behind heard a +cry, and rode up, only in time to find the muleteer lying +dead, and his murderers escaped. When the robbers are in +<pb n="424"/><anchor id="Pg424"/>force, and attempt to plunder openly, they are invariably +beaten. +</p> + +<p> +The other day Lieutenant Holt was in command of a train +with treasure for Ashangi, having a guard of ten Sepoys. +He was attacked by a band of fifty or sixty men, who came +up twice to the assault, but were driven off, leaving three of +their number dead upon the ground. These cases are not +exceptional; they are of daily occurrence, and are rapidly +upon the increase. It is greatly to be regretted; but it was +to be foreseen from the course of conduct pursued in the first +instance towards men caught robbing in the Sooro Pass. I +predicted at the time of my first visit to Senafe, early in +December last, what must be the inevitable result of the +course pursued to the men caught pillaging. They were kept +in the guard-house for a day or two, fed better than they had +ever before been in their lives, and then dismissed to steal +again, and to encourage their companions in stealing, believing +that we were too weak and too pusillanimous to dare +to punish them. And so it has been ever since. In the eyes +of our political officers a native could do no harm. Any +punishment which has been inflicted upon them has been +given by regimental officers, or officers of the transport-train, +who have caught them robbing. And even this moderate +quota of justice was rendered at the peril of the judges. +Lieutenant Story, 26th regiment, a most energetic officer of +the transport-train—to give one example out of a score—found +that at one of the stations the natives who were anxious to +come in to sell grass and grain were driven away by two +chiefs, who openly beat and ill-treated those who persisted in +endeavouring to sell to us. The result was, that the natives +kept away, and only a few ventured in at night to sell their +<pb n="425"/><anchor id="Pg425"/>stores. Lieutenant Story found that his mules were starving, +and very properly caught the two chiefs, and gave them +half-a-dozen each. The chiefs reported the case; the mild +<q>politicals</q> as usual had their way; and Lieutenant Story +was summarily removed from the transport-train. +</p> + +<p> +I mentioned in a former letter the case of the mule-driver +who wrested the musket from a man who was attempting to +rob the mules, and shot him with his own weapon, and who +was rewarded for his gallantry by having a dozen lashes. I +could fill a column with similar instances. Had we had the +good fortune to have had a man of decision and energy as +our political officer instead of Colonel Merewether, all this +would have been avoided. The first man caught with arms +in his hands attacking and plundering our convoys should +have been tried and shot; it is what he would have received +at the hands of the native chiefs; and it would have put a +stop to the brigandage. Instead of which, the policy—if such +pottering can be termed policy—has been to encourage them, +by every means in our power, to plunder our convoys and +murder our drivers and men. A stern policy with savages +is, in the end, infinitely the more merciful one. A couple of +lives at first would have saved fifty, which have already on +both sides been sacrificed, and a hundred more, which will +be probably lost before we are out of the country. Sir R. +Napier, now that he has taken the reins into his own hands, +is fully alive to the error that has been committed, and to +the absolute necessity of showing no more leniency to the +robber-bands which begin to swarm around us. It is most +unfortunate that the early stages of our intercourse with the +natives had not been intrusted to a man of firmness and +sound sense. With the repeated caution of the officers at +<pb n="426"/><anchor id="Pg426"/>the various stations in our ears, and with the accounts we +received at almost every halting-place of some attack and +murder in the neighbourhood within a day or two of our +arrival, it may be imagined that we took every precaution. +Our servants were all armed with spears, our mules were +kept in close file, and two of us rode in front, two in the +rear of our party, with our rifles cocked, and our revolvers +ready to hand. As we anticipated, we were not attacked; +for, as a general rule, the cowardly robbers, however numerous, +will not attack when they see a prospect of a stout +resistance. Our precautions were not, however, in vain; for +we knew that at least in one case we should have been attacked +had we not been so palpably upon our guard. On +the brow of the hill above Atzala we passed without seeing a +single native; but looking back after we had gone three or +four hundred yards, we saw a party of fifty or sixty men +armed with spears and shields, get up from among some +bushes and rocks by the roadside and make off. There is no +doubt that, had we not been prepared, we should have been +attacked, and probably murdered. For the remainder of our +journey there is little danger. The looting, indeed, continues +all down the line; but the country is open and bare, and the +natives would never dream of attacking in the open. +</p> + +<p> +I have very great regret in announcing the death from +dysentery of Lieutenant Morgan, of the Royal Engineers. +He died at the front, and the news of the sad event probably +reached England by the last mail; but I did not hear +of it at Antalo until after I had despatched my last letter. +He was at the head of the signalling-department, and was +one of the most energetic and unwearied of officers. I +never, indeed, met a man more devoted to his work; and +<pb n="427"/><anchor id="Pg427"/>had he lived, he would have become most distinguished in +his profession. Sir Robert Napier, who thoroughly appreciated +his efforts, has issued the following general order: +<q>The Commander-in-chief has received with great regret +the report of the death of Lieutenant Morgan, R.E., in +charge of the signallers of the 10th Company, R.E. Sir +Robert Napier had constant opportunities of observing the +unflagging zeal and energy of this young officer, and the +cheerful alacrity with which he embraced every opportunity +to render his special work useful to the forces. Lieutenant +Morgan set a bright example to those under his command; +and by his premature loss, owing to prolonged exposure and +fatigue, her Majesty’s service and the corps of Royal Engineers +are deprived of a most promising officer.</q> +</p> + +<p> +Not often does it fall to the lot of a subaltern to win such +high and well-merited praise from his commander-in-chief; +but poor Morgan was one in a thousand. His death unquestionably +was the result of his hard work and exposure. He +was one of those to whom his duty, however severe, was a +pleasure. Although he could have ridden, had he chosen +to do so, he marched at the head of his little body of men, +lightening their labours by some cheerful remark; and when +arrived at camp, and when other men’s work was over, he +would perhaps be sent off to arrange for signalling orders +to the brigade in the rear, a duty which would occupy the +entire night. He would be off with a cheerful alacrity which +I never saw ruffled. He was quiet and unaffected in manner, +and was one of those men who are most liked by those who +best know them. It is with sincere regret that I write this +brief notice of his untimely death. +</p> + +<p> +Respecting the country, I have little to tell that is not +<pb n="428"/><anchor id="Pg428"/>already known to English readers. After the tremendous +gorges of the Djedda and Bachelo, which are now ascertained +to be 3900 feet in depth, the hills upon this side of the +Tacazze, which had appeared so formidable when we before +crossed them, are mere trifles. The roads, too, were much +better than when we went up, the second brigade and Sappers +and Miners having done a good deal of work upon them +to render them practicable for elephants. The rain which +has fallen lately has done a good deal to brighten-up the +country; not upon the bare hill-sides—there all is brown +and burnt-up as before—but in the bottom of the valleys and +upon the hill-sides, where streamlets have poured down +during the rains, the bright green of the young grass affords +a pleasant relief to the eye. The crops, too, look bright and +well; and it is a curious circumstance, that here there appears +to be no fixed time for harvest. It is no unusual thing +to see three adjoining patches of cultivated land—the one +having barley in full ear, the second having the crop only +a few inches above the ground, and the third undergoing the +operation of the plough. +</p> + +<p> +The army is now about seven days in my rear, as I +travel very much faster than they do. Every available mule +is being sent up to meet them, to carry down stores and +baggage; and there is rum and all other comforts for them +at the principal stations upon their way. The native carriage +is at work bringing down the spare supplies; and if +there are but sufficient of them employed, the stores will soon +cease to trouble us; for the natives are such arrant thieves, +that between this and Atzala, only two days’ march, bags +of rice and flour which started weighing 75 lb. arrive weighing +only 40 lb., 30 lb., and sometimes only 25 lb. The word +<pb n="429"/><anchor id="Pg429"/>Habesh, which is their own general name for the people +of Abyssinia, means a mixture; and I can hardly imagine a +worse mixture than it is, for they appear to have inherited +all the vices and none of the virtues of the numerous races +of whom they are composed. +</p> + +<p> +Beyond this I need write no more; but I cannot close +my journal of the Abyssinian expedition without expressing +my gratitude for the very great and uniform kindness with +which I have been treated by the Commander-in-chief, and +by the greater portion of his staff. I would particularly +mention Colonel Dillon, the Military Secretary; one of the +most able and certainly the most popular officer upon the +staff, and whose kindness and attention to us has been unbounded. +He has been always ready to afford us any information +in his power, and to assist us in all those little +difficulties with which a civilian travelling with an army is +unavoidably beset. +</p> + +<p> +The Abyssinian expedition may now be said to be over, +and has been a more perfect and extraordinary success than +the most sanguine could have predicted. It would, in the +face of the terrible forebodings which were launched when +it was first set about, have seemed an almost impossibility +that we could have journeyed here, defeated and almost +annihilated Theodore’s army, obtained the whole of the +prisoners, stormed Magdala—incomparably the strongest +fortress in the world—and killed Theodore, and returned before +the rains, with the loss of only one man dead from his +wounds, and two or three from sickness; a loss infinitely +less than would have taken place in the ordinary course of +nature among so large a body of men. And yet this apparent +impossibility has been, by the special providence of God, +<pb n="430"/><anchor id="Pg430"/>achieved; for that He has specially blessed our efforts, it +would be the height of scepticism to doubt. We have passed +through fatigues and hardships which one would have thought +must have told upon the strongest constitution. We have +had wet day after day, with bitterly cold winds, and no +change even of underclothing for a month; we have had no +tobacco or stimulants to enable the system to resist this wet +and cold; and yet the hospitals are empty, and the health of +the troops perfect. We have defeated a large and hitherto +invincible army, and taken the strongest fortress in the +world, with the loss of one man. We have accomplished a +march through a country of fabulous difficulties, destitute of +roads and almost destitute of food, and with our difficulties +of transport vastly aggravated by the untrustworthy reports +of those sent on before, and by the consequent breakdown of +our baggage-train, from disease, thirst, and overwork; and +yet we shall leave the country before the rains. +</p> + +<p> +Humanly, too much credit can scarcely be given to Sir +Robert Napier. He has had to overcome innumerable difficulties, +which I have from time to time alluded to; but he +has met them all admirably. As is often the case with successful +commanders, he is immensely popular. The extreme +kindness and thoughtfulness of his manner to all make him +greatly beloved, and I believe that the men would have done +anything for him. +</p> + +<p> +Upon the whole, England may well be proud of the +campaign,—proud of her General, and of the gallant and +hardy army, whose endurance and labour carried it out +successfully. It has not numerically been a great campaign; +but by our success under innumerable difficulties, England +has gained a prestige which, putting aside the proper objects +<pb n="431"/><anchor id="Pg431"/>of the campaign, is cheaply attained at the cost, and which +is the more gratifying inasmuch as that England, although +she has always risen under difficulties, and has come triumphantly +out of great wars, has yet notoriously failed in +her <q>little wars.</q> +</p> + +<p rend="center; margin-top: 5">THE END.</p> + +<p rend="center; margin-top: 5; small">LONDON:<lb/> +ROBSON AND SON, GREAT NORTHERN PRINTING WORKS,<lb/> +PANCRAS ROAD, N.W.</p> + + </div></div></body> + <back> +<div> + <pgIf output="pdf"> + <then/> + <else> + <div id="footnotes" rend="page-break-before: right"> + <index index="toc" level1="Footnotes"/> + <head>Footnotes</head> + <divGen type="footnotes"/> + </div> + </else> + </pgIf> + </div> +<div rend="page-break-before:right; x-class: boxed"> + <index index="pdf" level1="Transcriber's Note"/><index index="toc" level1="Transcriber’s Note"/> + <head>Transcriber’s Note</head> + + <p>The table of contents has been added to the electronic version.</p> + + <p>The following changes have been made to the text:</p> + <list> + <item><ref target="corr016">page 16</ref>, <q>o</q> changed to <q>of</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr017">page 17</ref>, period changed to comma after <q>released</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr023">page 23</ref>, <q>reconnoisance</q> changed to <q>reconnoissance</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr118">page 118</ref>, <q>ever</q> changed to <q>over</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr120">page 120</ref>, <q>provisons</q> changed to <q>provisions</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr273">page 273</ref>, <q>Grifiths</q> changed to <q>Griffiths</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr322">page 322</ref>, <q>innumnerable</q> changed to <q>innumerable</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr353">page 353</ref>, period changed to comma after <q>Gazoo</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr372">page 372</ref>, <q>were</q> changed to <q>where</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr377">page 377-378</ref>, <q>aide-camp</q> changed to <q>aide-de-camp</q></item> + + </list> + <p>Variations in hyphenation (e.g. <q>breakdown</q>, <q>break-down</q>; + <q>waterproof</q>, <q>water-proof</q>) + have not been changed.</p> + </div> + <div rend="page-break-before: right"> + <divGen type="pgfooter"/> + </div> + </back> + </text> +</TEI.2> |