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A. Henty</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and +most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online +at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you +are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the +country where you are located before using this eBook. +</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: March to Magdala</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: G. A. Henty</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: April 17, 2012 [eBook #39470]<br /> +[Most recently updated: March 4, 2022]</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div> +<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MARCH TO MAGDALA ***</div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgi" id="Pgi" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">THE MARCH TO MAGDALA.</span></p> + + <div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgii" id="Pgii" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">LONDON:<br /> + ROBSON AND SON, GREAT NORTHERN PRINTING WORKS,<br /> + PANCRAS ROAD, N.W.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-titlePage" style="text-align: center"> + <div class="tei tei-pb" style="text-align: center"></div><a name= + "Pgiii" id="Pgiii" class="tei tei-anchor" style= + "text-align: center"></a> <span class="tei tei-docTitle" style= + "text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-titlePart" style= + "text-align: center">THE<br /> + <br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 173%">MARCH TO MAGDALA.</span></span></span></span><br /> + <br /> + <br /> + + <div class="tei tei-byline" style="text-align: center"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">By</span></span> <span class= + "tei tei-docAuthor" style="text-align: center">G. A. + HENTY</span>,<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT OF THE</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">STANDARD;</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">”</span></span> <span style= + "font-size: 90%">AUTHOR OF</span> <span class="tei tei-q" style= + "text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">A SEARCH FOR + A SECRET,</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 90%">ETC.</span></span> + </div><br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <span class="tei tei-docImprint" style= + "text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-pubPlace" style= + "text-align: center">LONDON:</span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-publisher" style="text-align: center">TINSLEY + BROTHERS, CATHERINE STREET, STRAND.</span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-date" style= + "text-align: center">1868.</span></span> + + <div class="tei tei-pb" style="text-align: center"></div><a name= + "Pgiv" id="Pgiv" class="tei tei-anchor" style= + "text-align: center"></a> + </div> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <a name="pdf1" id="pdf1"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">Contents</span></h1> + + <ul class="tei tei-index tei-index-toc"> + <li><a href="#toc2">Preface</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc4">Introductory chapter</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc6">The March to Magdala</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc8">On board Transport General Havelock, December + 1st, 1867</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc10">Annesley Bay, December 4th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc12">Annesley Bay, December 6th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc14">Koomaylo, December 9th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc16">Koomaylo, December 12th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc18">Upper Sooro, December 13th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc20">Camp, Senafe, December 16th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc22">Senafe, December 19th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc24">Senafe, December 20th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc26">Camp, Senafe, December 23d</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc28">Camp, Senafe, December 26th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc30">Zulla, Annesley Bay, January 2d, 1868</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc32">Zulla, Jan. 6th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc34">Zulla, January 19th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc36">Zulla, January 22d</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc38">Senafe, January 31st</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc40">Senafe, February 3d</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc42">Goun-Gonna, February 4th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc44">Attegrat, February 7th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc46">Attegrat, February 13th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc48">Attegrat, February 17th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc50">Ad Abaga, Feb. 20th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc52">Dongolo, Feb. 26th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc54">Doullo, February 29</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc56">Antalo, March 4th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc58">Antalo, March 7th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc60">Antalo, March 11th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc62">Meshech, March 14th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc64">Mahkan, March 16th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc66">Ashangi Lake, March 19th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc68">Lât, March 21st</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc70">Dildee, March 24th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc71">Dildee, March 24th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc72">Santarai, March 29th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc74">Scindee, April 5th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc76">Dalanta, April 5th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc78">Dalanta, April 7th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc80">Before Magdala, April 11th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc82">April 12th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc84">Ten o'clock P.M.</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc86">Before Magdala, April 14th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc88">Before Magdala, April 16th</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc90">Antalo, May 1st</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc92">Footnotes</a></li> + + <li><a href="#toc94">Transcriber’s Note</a></li> + </ul> + </div> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagev">[pg v]</span><a name="Pgv" id= + "Pgv" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc2" id= + "toc2"></a><a name="pdf3" id="pdf3"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">PREFACE.</span></h1> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In submitting to + the public in a collected form the Letters which have already + appeared in the daily press, a Special Correspondent has the option + of one of two courses. The one course is, to publish the Letters as + nearly as possible as they originally stood, as a journal written + from day to day, and from week to week; the other, to recast the + whole, to rewrite the Letters, and to give a continuous narrative of + the expedition as of a past event. The second of these courses has + the advantage of unity of purpose; it will contain fewer errors, + fewer mistaken predictions of the probable course of events, and, + above all, less of the repetitions which must unavoidably occur in a + series of letters. The style, too, will naturally be far smoother and + more polished than in the original letters, written as they usually + were in haste and under circumstances of great difficulty. But, on + the other hand, such a narrative would lose much of the freshness + which original letters possess, and it would be deficient in that + interest which a knowledge of the hopes and <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="pagevi">[pg vi]</span><a name="Pgvi" id="Pgvi" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>fears, the doubts and anticipations, the plans + destined to be frustrated, and the opinions constantly varying with + the course of events, must give to a narrative. The present tense too + is far more pleasant and less monotonous than the preterite. I have + therefore determined, in submitting my Letters for republication, to + adhere as closely as possible to the original form and matter; not + hesitating, however, to make many additions, alterations, and + excisions, where subsequent information or the course of events have + proved my opinions or conclusions to have been erroneous.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The present work + does not profess to be a scientific record of the expedition. It + gives neither statistics, general orders, nor official documents. + This will no doubt be hereafter done by some officer far better + qualified for the task than I can be. It is merely the plain + narrative of a looker-on, who accompanied the expedition from the + commencement of December 1867, when affairs at Zulla were at their + worst, to the closing scene at Magdala. At the same time, I have not + shrunk from stating my own opinions as to the course of events. A + great disaster like that of the complete break-down of the + Transport-train at Zulla cannot occur without grievous blame + attaching to somebody. I conceive it to be one of the first duties of + a correspondent to state fearlessly the persons and the causes which, + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagevii">[pg vii]</span><a name="Pgvii" + id="Pgvii" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>in his opinion, have brought on + a great public disaster. Unpleasant, therefore, though it be to find + fault, I have not hesitated to assign the blame where I consider it + was due. This I did in the very first letter I wrote from Zulla after + landing, before I had gone up to Senafe; and the opinion I then + expressed, I now, after months have elapsed, and after hearing the + matter discussed in every light, do not hesitate to reaffirm.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">With the + exceptions I have alluded to, the Letters are the same in form and + substance as when they appeared in the columns of the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Standard</span></span>; + and although, for the reasons I have given, I am convinced that it is + the wisest course to leave them so, yet, remembering as I do the + circumstances of haste, fatigue, and difficulty under which they were + written, I cannot but feel extreme diffidence in submitting them to + the public <span class="tei tei-q">“with all their errors on their + head.”</span></p> + + <div class="tei tei-signed" style="text-align: right"> + G. A. H. + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgviii" id="Pgviii" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + </div> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + + <div class="tei tei-body" style= + "margin-bottom: 6.00em; margin-top: 6.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page1">[pg 1]</span><a name="Pg001" id= + "Pg001" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc4" id= + "toc4"></a><a name="pdf5" id="pdf5"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.</span></h1> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Abyssinian + expedition has, from the time it was first determined upon, attracted + an amount of attention, not only in Great Britain but throughout the + civilised world, altogether disproportionate to the strength of the + army employed, or to the extent of the interests at stake. The total + force engaged was under, rather than over, 10,000 men; not one-fifth + the strength of an army which we might ourselves put into the field + for a campaign in India; scarcely a fiftieth of the force at the + command of either of the great Continental Powers. It was clearly not + the magnitude of the expedition, then, which attracted attention: it + was the extraordinary and novel circumstances under which it was + undertaken; the almost insurmountable difficulties to be overcome; + the unknown nature of the country to be traversed, and the romantic + disinterestedness of the motives which led England to embark upon it, + which has rendered it one of the most interesting and notable + campaigns ever undertaken. Since the expedition of Pizarro and Cortes + in the middle ages, no such novel and hazardous expedition is on + record. The country itself was like that of the far-famed Prester + John—everything about it smacked of the marvellous. It was more + mountainous, more inaccessible, more war-loving, more wild than any + other country in the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page2">[pg + 2]</span><a name="Pg002" id="Pg002" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>world. + The king with whom we waged war was a potentate who by his military + talents had raised himself from a comparatively obscure position to + the sovereignty of all Abyssinia: he was enlightened beyond his race; + patronised strangers, encouraged manufactures, endeavoured in every + way to improve the condition of his country, and was yet a + bloodthirsty tyrant. The people themselves were a strange race, far + more civilised than other African nations, Christians in the midst of + a Mahometan and Pagan continent, a mixture of many races—African, + Greek, Arab, and Jew. Altogether it was a land of romance. Nor had + travellers done much to enlighten us as to the country. Some had + described it as fertile in the extreme; others had spoken of it as a + land of mountain and defile, where no sustenance could be hoped for + for the army. They had united only in prophesying evil things—hunger + and thirst, inaccessible mountain and pathless wastes, fever, + cholera, small-pox, dysentery, the tetse-fly, tapeworm, and + guinea-worm. We were to be consumed with fire; we were to be + annihilated with stones rolled upon us when in ravines; we were to be + cut off in detail upon our marches; we were to be harassed to death + by repeated night and day attacks. All these and many other + prophecies were freely uttered, and it really appeared as if our + expedition was to partake strongly of the nature of a forlorn-hope. + The friends of officers and men said good-bye to them as if they were + going to certain death, and insurance-offices doubled and trebled the + premium upon their lives. All this assisted to raise the public + interest and anxiety to the highest point. It is needless now to say + that almost the whole of the adverse predictions were entirely + falsified, and that we have met with no diffi<span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page3">[pg 3]</span><a name="Pg003" id="Pg003" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>culties whatever beyond mountain and ravine, the + want of transport, and the scarcity of food.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Generally as the + subject is known, it is yet necessary, before commencing the history + of the campaign, to say a few words upon the events which preceded + and caused it; and as the subject has been exhausted by Dr. Beke in + his able work on the Abyssinian captives, I cannot do better than + preface my story with a brief epitome of the facts recited in his + volume. Dr. Beke was well-acquainted with Mr. Plowden, our late + Consul there, and knew thoroughly the whole of the events which led + to the captivity of the English party, and he was in intimate + communication with their friends here. His statements are supported + by numerous official documents; and this volume, in which he now sets + forth the state of the case, may be apparently received with + confidence as reliable in every particular.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The kingdom of + Abyssinia is of extreme antiquity, and was once a great and + flourishing empire. It has been ruled by a succession of monarchs + claiming direct descent from Menilek, the son of King Solomon by the + Queen of Sheba. For the last century the legitimate monarch has had + very little power, the real authority being in the hands of the most + powerful of the chiefs of the various tribes composing the empire, + and who, as in turns they became dominant, assumed the title of ras + or vizier, keeping the puppet emperor in a state of honourable + captivity, administering affairs and carrying on wars without the + slightest reference to his wishes and opinions. The kingdom of + Abyssinia consists of an immense elevated plateau or table-land, of + great fertility, and possessing a temperate and agreeable climate. At + its north-eastern extremity it approaches very nearly to <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page4">[pg 4]</span><a name="Pg004" id="Pg004" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the sea, the port of Massowah at that + point being its natural outlet. Towards the south the table-land + trends away from the sea, being separated from it by a wide low-lying + plain, inhabited by Mahometan tribes. The religion of the natives of + Abyssinia itself has been from very early times Christian, and they + possess a native version of the Scriptures which dates from the + fourth century of the Christian era. The laws of this singular people + are, like our own, founded upon the code of Justinian. The various + tribes which form the empire, although acknowledging the supremacy of + the emperor, are yet virtually independent, paying a mere nominal + tribute, and making war upon and deposing him whenever they feel + strong enough to do so. These tribes are very numerous, but the + principal may be considered to be those inhabiting Tigre, which is + the province nearest to Massowah, and therefore commanding the + avenues of approach to the interior; Amhara, the capital, lying to + the south of Tigre, Lasta in the centre, and Shoa, Godjam, and Kwara + to the west. Of these Tigre is the representative of the ancient + kingdom. It is almost entirely surrounded by the river Takkazye, + which separates it from the rest of the empire; and its inhabitants + speak the language of the ancient Ethiopic, in which is the early + version of the Bible. Since the middle of the sixteenth century the + Turks have claimed the entire seaboard, but have only occupied the + Sawakin and Massowah.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the year 1810 + the English Government, alarmed at the attempts of the French to + obtain a footing in Egypt, dispatched Mr. Salt, afterwards + Consul-General in Egypt, to Abyssinia, to open friendly relations + with that power; and that gentleman, being unable to penetrate beyond + Tigre, the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page5">[pg 5]</span><a name= + "Pg005" id="Pg005" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>chief of which country + was at the time the ras, or most powerful chief in the kingdom, + delivered the letter from King George, and the accompanying presents, + to that personage. Almost simultaneously, however, the power of the + French in the Indian Ocean was annihilated, and a few years + afterwards the fall of Napoleon relieving the British Government of + all fear of French aggression in the East, the diplomatic relations + between England and Tigre came to an end. A constant jealousy and + struggle, however, appears to have been maintained between the + Protestant and Roman Catholic missions, which were alternately + fostered and expelled by the various sovereigns of the country.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In 1847 a British + consulate was established, Mr. Plowden being selected for the post. + He unfortunately committed the great error of entering into friendly + relations with the potentate of Amhara, in place of the independent + chief of Tigre, who, possessing the only outlet of communication, + rendered an alliance with Amhara completely nugatory to both parties. + Mr. Plowden himself, when too late, seems to have discovered that he + had committed an error, and wrote to the Earl of Clarendon, who was + then Foreign Secretary, that he feared that little commercial + advantage could be obtained. His lordship replied that, having made + the treaty and established the consulate, her Majesty’s Government + were reluctant to renounce all hope of benefit, and begged him to + suggest some plan of establishing himself at Massowah or some other + seaport, and of keeping up a communication with the interior.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Plowden in his + report gave full details as to the country, and especially the + northern portion, into which the Egyptians were constantly making + plundering expeditions, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page6">[pg + 6]</span><a name="Pg006" id="Pg006" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>carrying off the cattle and inhabitants, and + selling the latter as slaves. Consul Plowden wrote strongly to the + Egyptian authorities upon their conduct, and in consequence of his + representations Lord Clarendon remonstrated energetically with the + Viceroy of Egypt upon his aggressions against Abyssinia. While this + was going on, a remarkable man had made his appearance. Dedjatj + Kassai was chief of one of the Kawra tribes. A man of great ambition + and talent, he conceived the design of making himself master of the + whole of Abyssinia, and in turn attacked and defeated the + neighbouring potentates, and speedily conquered the whole of the + country, with the exception only of Tigre, and then assumed the title + of the Emperor Theodore. Theodore is described in Mr. Plowden’s + despatches as a man of good impulses, and a desire to rule well and + wisely, but of a violent temper, and an inordinate pride in his + kingly dignity and position. With him Mr. Plowden entered into + negotiations for a treaty with England, for the despatch of an + embassy to this country, and for the establishment of the British + consulate in Abyssinia, with power and jurisdiction in all cases in + which a British subject might be interested.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Emperor + objected to the clause conferring jurisdiction on the Consul, but + promised to give the matter his earnest attention when he should find + time to do so, as he was most favourably disposed towards England. + Lord Clarendon highly approved of the course Consul Plowden was + pursuing, and stated that the Queen would have much pleasure in + receiving, and treating with due honour, the ambassadors whom his + Majesty might send to her Court. The ratification of this treaty and + the sending the embassy were put off in consequence of the constant + wars in which Theodore was engaged <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page7">[pg 7]</span><a name="Pg007" id="Pg007" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>with rebellious tribes in various parts of his + empire, but he always expressed himself as willing to carry out these + engagements as soon as he could find leisure to enable him to do so. + In March 1860, Consul Plowden was killed during his journey back to + Massowah, from which he had been absent at the Court of Theodore for + five years.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Layard most + wrongfully accused Mr. Plowden, in a speech delivered in the House of + Commons on June 30th, 1865, of breach of duty. He stated that Consul + Plowden, <span class="tei tei-q">“instead of attending to the object + with which he was placed there, that of encouraging commercial + intercourse between Great Britain and Abyssinia, plunged into local + intrigues.... Her Majesty’s Government at once sent out instructions + for him to return to his post at Massowah, and no longer to interfere + in their local differences.”</span> This accusation brought forth an + indignant protest upon the part of Consul Plowden’s brother. He + showed that Mr. Plowden was accredited to Abyssinia, and not to + Massowah, which is a Turkish port without trade, and with no British + subjects or interests to protect, and only valuable as the means of + entry into Abyssinia, and of communication with Europe, and obviously + for that reason only made the head-quarters of the consulate. The + duties of the Consul were to watch and counteract foreign intrigue, + to keep peace between Abyssinia and Egypt, to put down the + slave-trade, and to encourage commerce; duties which it is evident he + could not perform if remaining at Massowah, separated from the seat + of the empire by a hostile tribe. Mr. Plowden pointed out that his + brother had commenced his consulship by going into the interior with + letters and presents to the reigning potentate, and that he had + during his whole term of office remained <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page8">[pg 8]</span><a name="Pg008" id="Pg008" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>there with but few intermissions, his last visit + there lasting for five years without a break. That during all this + time he corresponded regularly with the Foreign Office, who were + aware of his movements, and by whose instruction he was guided. Thus + Mr. Plowden showed conclusively that the reckless attack which Mr. + Layard so chivalrously made, five years after his death, upon an + officer who had nobly performed most difficult duties, was altogether + without foundation. Upon Consul Plowden’s death Captain Cameron was + gazetted <span class="tei tei-q">“her Majesty’s Consul in + Abyssinia,”</span> but it was only on February 9th, 1862, that he + arrived at Massowah. His instructions were rather vague, a good deal + being necessarily left to his own discretion, but he was generally + enjoined to carry on Consul Plowden’s policy, to continue the + negotiations for the treaty, and for the despatch of an embassy to + England. Massowah was of course to be his head-quarters, but no + injunctions were given him against going into the interior. On the + contrary, he was furnished with letters and presents to the Emperor, + to whom Earl Russell introduced him, and requested Theodore’s + protection and favour in his behalf. Captain Cameron, during the + period which elapsed between his appointment and his departure for + his post, had been thoroughly instructed in the progress which had + been made in the negotiations by Consul Plowden, and had full + authority to take them up at the point at which they were at that + gentleman’s death, and Mr. Stern, the missionary, was requested by + Earl Russell himself to remain in London at that time in order to + discuss with Captain Cameron the contemplated embassy and other + matters. And yet, in the face of this, Mr. Layard ventured to say, in + his place in Parliament, on October 31, 1865, when quoting Consul + Cameron’s <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page9">[pg 9]</span><a name= + "Pg009" id="Pg009" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>despatch on the + subject, <span class="tei tei-q">“Now this was altogether contrary to + the instruction he had received.”</span> Consul Cameron was received + with great state and courtesy by the Emperor Theodore, who again + expressed his desire to send an embassy to England. But a day or two + after the Consul reached the Abyssinian Court the intelligence + arrived that our Consul at Jerusalem, who had been always looked + upon, and who had acted as the protector of the Abyssinian colony + there, had received orders from the Foreign Secretary to withdraw + that protection, and that consequently their convent had been + plundered by the Armenians. This affair of the Jerusalem Abyssinians + is told by Dr. Beke with great clearness, but space forbids me here + to enter upon it; suffice it that Earl Russell without the smallest + cause or pretext withdrew the protection, or rather good offices, + which had been extended by Lord Malmesbury to the Abyssinian colony, + and which had been one cause of the goodwill with which England was + regarded in Abyssinia.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Upon the day after + this the Emperor saw Captain Cameron, told him that he had well + considered the subject of the treaty, about which there would be no + difficulty, and he presented him with a letter which he had written + to her Majesty. In this, after many expressions of regard and good + wishes, the Emperor expresses his intention of attacking the Turks on + account of their constant aggressions upon him, and requests her + Majesty to arrange for the safe-conduct of the ambassadors, whom he + is prepared to send at once to England. Upon receiving this letter + Consul Cameron at once started for the sea-coast. He was, however, + stopped upon his way by a rebel chief; but his letters were sent down + by a native messenger, and arrived in London the 12th February 1863. + Captain Cameron himself, accompanied by the Emperor’s re<span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page10">[pg 10]</span><a name="Pg010" id="Pg010" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>presentative and a strong escort, + proceeded to Bogos, to examine into the truth of the alleged inroads + of the Turks or Egyptians, as they are indifferently called, into + that province. Finding that these were still continued, Captain + Cameron wrote to Consul-General Colquhoun at Alexandria, begging him + to remonstrate with the Egyptian Government. He also wrote to Earl + Russell from Bogos, and twice to the Emperor, acquainting him with + the steps he was taking for the protection of his subjects, in these + respects taking as guide the conduct of his predecessor, Consul + Plowden, acting, as the advocate of the cause of the Christian + Abyssinians against the Turks, in perfect accord with the + representative and favourite of the Emperor, who was his companion. + It is therefore clear that there is not the least foundation for Earl + Russell’s ill-advised allegation, <span class="tei tei-q">“the chief + cause of the Emperor’s anger with Consul Cameron was this journey to + Bogos.”</span> His proceedings, however, incurred the displeasure of + both the Egyptian Government and the home authorities. In Mr. + Plowden’s time Egypt had been in a state of disorganisation, and + therefore the British Government had, on receiving their Consul’s + account of the atrocities executed by the Egyptian troops upon the + inhabitants of Bogos, addressed the energetic remonstrances of our + Foreign Minister to the Viceroy; but now things were changed. Egypt + was compact and strong, and Earl Russell would not for worlds offend + so well regulated an ally; therefore a sharp reproof was sent off to + Captain Cameron to mind his own business, and to return to Massowah. + Such is the effect of a changed state of things, and poor Consul + Cameron, by not reflecting on this, was blamed for doing precisely + the same for which Consul Plowden had gained much + credit.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page11">[pg + 11]</span><a name="Pg011" id="Pg011" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When Captain + Cameron returned to the Court in July, after his lengthened absence, + his position was not a pleasant one, for he was still without an + answer to the Emperor’s letter to the Queen, which had been sent off + October 31st of the previous year; he had not, indeed, received as + yet an answer to his own despatch enclosing that letter; for owing to + delays it had not, as has been said, reached England until February + the 12th, and Earl Russell had not thought it of sufficient + importance to answer it for more than two months afterwards, and then + without making the slightest allusion to the Emperor’s letter which + it enclosed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">After the Consul + had parted with the Emperor’s representative at Bogos, he had made a + visit into the Egyptian province of Soudan, in accordance with + instructions he had received from the Foreign Office, to inquire into + the prospects of cotton-growing there, as the subject of Egyptian + cotton was then attracting great notice in England. This expedition + added to the anger which the Emperor Theodore felt at not having + received an answer to his letter to her Majesty. The following + conversation took place at his first interview with Captain Cameron, + and plainly enough testifies as to the real cause of the Emperor’s + anger:</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Where have you been since you parted from Samuel at + Bogos?”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Into the frontier provinces of Soudan.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“What for?”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“To see about cotton and trade, and so forth.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Who told you to go there?”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“The British Government.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Have you brought me an answer from the Queen of + England?”</span></p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page12">[pg + 12]</span><a name="Pg012" id="Pg012" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“No.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Why not?”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Because I have not received any communication from the + Government upon the subject.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Why, then, do you come to see me now?”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“I request permission to return to Massowah.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“What for?”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Because I have been ordered by the Government to go + there.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“So,”</span> exclaimed the exasperated monarch, + <span class="tei tei-q">“your Queen can give you orders to go and + visit my enemies the Turks, and then to return to Massowah; but she + cannot send a civil answer to my letter to her. You shall not leave + me till that answer comes.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Captain Cameron + then, in July 1863, became a prisoner,—not in bonds, indeed, but a + prisoner upon parole. In September the answer arrived from the + Emperor Napoleon, to whom Theodore had despatched a letter at the + same time as to the Queen. This answer gave great offence, as it was + written by Marshal O’Neil, and not by the Emperor himself. Its + contents, too, were singularly ill-judged, and the missive was torn + to pieces before a council of the dignitaries by the Emperor, and + trodden under foot. The French Consul and a companion were + peremptorily ordered to quit the Abyssinian territory.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In October arrived + Earl Russell’s answer to Captain Cameron, but without the slightest + allusion to Theodore’s letter. Up to this time no cause of dispute + whatever had arisen between Messrs. Stern and Rosenthal and the + Emperor; but the fury which Theodore felt at the slight so wantonly + passed upon him by the British Foreign Secretary now <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page13">[pg 13]</span><a name="Pg013" id="Pg013" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>burst upon the heads of the whole of that + nation. On October the 15th Captain Cameron’s servant, or messenger, + was seized and beaten; and in the evening of the same day Mr. Stern’s + two servants were seized and beaten so cruelly that they both died + the same night. Mr. Stern himself, who was standing by at the time, + happened, in his horror at the proceeding, to place his hand to his + mouth. It was at once said he was biting his thumb at the Emperor, + which is considered a threat of revenge; and he was accordingly + seized and cruelly beaten, and his life was also for some time + despaired of. For some time nothing further took place, and then the + Emperor, who desired to justify in some way his fit of rage against a + man with whom he had had no dispute or cause of complaint, had all + Mr. Stern’s and Mr. Rosenthal’s books and papers examined and read, + this office being performed by a Frenchman named Bardel, who appears + throughout to have been a treacherous and bitter enemy of the English + party. Enough criminatory matter was found here, in the shape of + remarks in their diaries upon the conduct of the Emperor, and they + were condemned to death; but this was commuted to imprisonment.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On Nov. 22d a + young Irishman named Kearns arrived with another despatch from the + Foreign Office,—probably the one of August 13th, but which contained + no allusion whatever to the Emperor’s letter. This naturally + exasperated Theodore more than ever, and Captain Cameron was now + ordered to be chained upon both hands. On the 4th of January Captain + Cameron, his attendants, and the missionaries, were all put in + fetters, and confined in the common prison. The cause of this fresh + proof of the wrath of the King is reported by Mr. Steiger, a member + of the Scottish mission, to have <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page14">[pg 14]</span><a name="Pg014" id="Pg014" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>been the arrival of the head of the Abyssinian + convent at Jerusalem with the news that the British Consul there had + declined to interfere in their behalf. Is anything further necessary + to establish the fact that the treatment of the unfortunate + missionaries was a mere episode incidental to the main question, + which was entirely between the Emperor Theodore and the British + Government?</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">As to the long + imprisonment, the torture and indignities inflicted upon the + captives, they are already well known to the public. Let us now see + what steps were taken by the late Government to procure their + release.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The news of the + imprisonment of Captain Cameron appeared in the Paris and London + papers of the 15th of December; but no one could believe it, the + favour in which the British Consul stood being a matter of notoriety. + Lord Clarendon, however, stated in the House of Lords, in the debate + on February 9, 1866, that the news had been received at the early + date given of the Consul’s detention; but it was only upon March 16, + 1864, or three months after it was known at the Foreign Office, that + the London Society for promoting Christianity among the Jews received + and made public the sad intelligence. Mrs. Stern wrote a petition to + the Queen, asking her to send a letter under the sign-manual, written + by herself to the Emperor. Lord Shaftesbury handed this letter to + Earl Russell, adding his own prayer to that of Mrs. Stern’s, and + requesting him to present the petition to the Queen. On the following + day, May 7th, Earl Russell returned the petition, unpresented, to + Lord Shaftesbury, saying that <span class="tei tei-q">“after much + deliberation he had come to the conclusion that he ought not to + advise the Queen to write to the King of Abyssinia.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">So matters might + have remained to the present day had <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page15">[pg 15]</span><a name="Pg015" id="Pg015" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>not a note which Captain Cameron had written + during his captivity been received by his relatives, and by them most + indiscreetly published in the papers. In this he said that there was + no hope of his release unless an answer was sent to the Emperor’s + letter. Everyone was filled with indignation at the delay of fourteen + months which had taken place in sending an answer to so important a + document, and Earl Russell and his colleagues came to the conclusion + that after all they ought to advise her Majesty to reply to the + letter, which she accordingly did, and towards the end of June the + letter was sent off. But so inefficiently was this done, that after + it had reached Cairo it was sent back to England to have alterations + made in it, and even then it was not perfect, for it was discovered + many months afterwards that the royal signet had not been attached, + and a fresh letter was accordingly sent out in February or March + 1865. The person selected to carry out this delicate business was a + Mr. Rassam, who had acted as paymaster to the men employed by Mr. + Layard at Nineveh, and who was instructed to demand the release of + Consul Cameron, but that as the other captives were not British + subjects, he was not to speak too authoritatively in their behalf. + But Mr. Rassam had, Dr. Beke affirms, another and far more delicate + mission. <span class="tei tei-q">“He was to make a good case for the + British Government—to remove the blame from their shoulders, even if + it were thrown on those of anyone else. It did not matter who might + be the scapegoat as long as the Government were exonerated. This is + said quite advisedly.”</span> Mr. Rassam went to Massowah, where he + remained a year doing apparently nothing whatever. Dr. Beke thinks + that all along, both in this and in his subsequent conduct, when he + went into <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page16">[pg 16]</span><a name= + "Pg016" id="Pg016" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the interior and saw + the Emperor, his conduct was not, to say the least of it, judicious. + The release of the prisoners when Mr. Rassam did at last see the + Emperor and present the Queen’s letter, and their subsequent + imprisonment, together with Mr. Rassam, are known to all.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Throughout all the + numerous debates in the Houses <a name="corr016" id="corr016" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">of</span> Parliament + during this period, Earl Russell and Mr. Layard persistently + endeavoured to burke all discussion by declaring that it would come + to the ears of the Emperor; but when at last the House insisted upon + being no longer put off with vague generalities, these two gentlemen, + who had so deprecated anything being said which might hurt the + feelings of the Emperor Theodore, were now guilty of applying the + strongest and most offensive epithets to him, which, had they come to + the knowledge of the Emperor, would have insured the instant + execution of his captives. This was, to say the least of it, a + strange and peculiar instance of inconsistency upon the part of these + thoughtful statesmen. In consequence of these debates in the House, + Earl Russell at length found that it was a matter which could no + longer be tampered with, and he himself appointed Mr. Palgrave to + start for Abyssinia to endeavour to effect the release of the Consul + and his companions in captivity. Mr. Rassam, however, prevented + anything being done by this gentleman. Nothing, indeed, if Dr. Beke + is to be trusted, can be more extraordinary than the conduct of this + person. He received the news of his recall while he was, as usual, + waiting quietly at Massowah. Instantly he embarked in the steamer + which brought the intelligence, steamed to Suez, and from there + telegraphed to her Majesty’s agent and Consul-General in Egypt that + Consul Cameron had been released. This is <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page17">[pg 17]</span><a name="Pg017" id="Pg017" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>proved to have been utterly without foundation, + but it had the desired effect of putting a stop to Mr. Palgrave’s + progress, that gentleman having arrived at Cairo, and being upon the + point of proceeding up the Nile. Mr. Rassam declined all fellowship + with Mr. Palgrave, and refused to agree to the proposition that one + should proceed up the Nile and the other <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">viâ</span></span> + Massowah. Mr. Rassam then took the presents brought by Mr. Palgrave, + and started back for Massowah, from whence he did what there is no + apparent reason why he should not have done at first, started for the + interior. Mr. Palgrave remained at Cairo to await the result of Mr. + Rassam’s mission. There he remained when the news came, in March + 1866, that the captives were <a name="corr017" id="corr017" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">released,</span> and + were on their way to the coast; there he remained until Mr. Flad + arrived in Egypt with the news of the detention of Mr. Rassam and the + captives; and then, extraordinary to state, when it would seem that + he might be of use, he started off by the first steamer to + England.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">As Dr. Beke says, + the whole matter is an enigma which requires solution. This sudden + passage of Mr. Rassam to Egypt upon the news of his recall being + received by him, the untrue telegram which he sent off from thence, + and which put a stop to Mr. Palgrave’s expedition—in short, every + incident connected with the conduct of Mr. Layard’s ex-paymaster + requires a most searching investigation.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Such is the + account given by Dr. Beke; and as Mr. Layard, although openly + attacked, has never disproved a single statement alleged against him, + but has contented himself with vehement personal attacks upon Dr. + Beke (probably upon the principle of the lawyer—<span class= + "tei tei-q">“when you have no <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page18">[pg 18]</span><a name="Pg018" id="Pg018" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>case, blackguard your opponent”</span>), it must + be assumed that in all material points Dr. Beke’s statements are + correct.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Such was the state + of things when the Conservative Ministry came into power; and after + another fruitless effort to ransom the prisoners, war was determined + upon as the only resource remaining.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The announcement + of the intention of Government was received with general + satisfaction. It was not a war for which any enthusiasm was felt; + there was no national glory to be gained, no national advantage; but + a national stain was to be wiped off, and a party of our countrymen + rescued from a position into which they had fallen by no fault + whatever of their own, but by the disgraceful <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">lâches</span></span> of + the Government they served; therefore it may be said that England in + general, if it did not enter heartily into the war, and winced a + little at the thought of the probable enormous expense, yet cordially + acquiesced in its necessity. War once determined upon, the columns of + the newspapers were inundated with suggestions from everyone who had + ever been in Abyssinia, and from a vast number of persons who had + not; and these, although they differed upon almost every point, yet + agreed upon piling danger upon difficulty, and horror upon horror, + until the very air, earth, and water of Abyssinia seemed to swarm + with worms and other creeping things. In the mean time the + preparations went steadily on. Officers were sent from England to + Egypt, Spain, and various parts of the Mediterranean to purchase + mules; Woolwich was busied with the preparation of mountain guns; + transports were taken up, hospital-ships were fitted out, and large + quantities of tents and other stores sent out from the Tower. This + was nearly all which England was to <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page19">[pg 19]</span><a name="Pg019" id="Pg019" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>contribute, for it was determined that the + expedition should be entirely an Indian one, and that Bombay should + have the honour as well as the responsibility of all the + arrangements.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">As soon as orders + were received from England to fit out an expedition with all speed, + Sir Seymour FitzGerald, the Governor of Bombay, and Sir Robert + Napier, Commander-in-chief of the Bombay army, set to work in + earnest. The greatest credit is undoubtedly due to the former for his + untiring zeal and earnestness; he was indefatigable: but at the same + time I doubt greatly the wisdom of committing the arrangements + connected with a great expedition of this sort to a civilian, who + necessarily must be unacquainted with the requirements of an army, + and who must be entirely guided by the advice of his council. The + consequence was that Sir Robert Napier was obliged to consult the + Governor on every point, and the Governor again had to consult his + own military adviser, an officer necessarily of far less standing + than Sir Robert Napier, who was thus liable to be overruled, + nominally by the Governor, but in reality by a subordinate officer. + Thus, as one instance out of many, Sir Robert Napier’s plan for a + transport train, which was sent in to the Governor for sanction early + in September, was entirely put aside, and the new scheme was not + issued by the Governor for two months afterwards; thus Sir Robert, + who when he once arrived in Abyssinia was solely responsible, was + liable to have the whole of his arrangements destroyed by the + break-down of a transport train, with the organisation of which he + had nothing whatever to do.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">As the present is + merely a narrative of the march of the army to Magdala, I must pass + cursorily over the prepara<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page20">[pg + 20]</span><a name="Pg020" id="Pg020" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>tions + in Bombay. I will, however, give a few extracts from the memoranda + issued by Sir Robert Napier, and which will be sufficient to show how + accurately he estimated the difficulties of the work to be done, and + how thoroughly he thought over every detail.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In his memorandum + of August 8th, Sir Robert Napier estimates that he will require + 12,000 men, for that 2000 must remain at the port, and at Post + No. 1 upon the high land (Senafe); 2000 men at Antalo, or at + some similar point in advance; and 2000 men to keep open + communication with the advanced column, and to support it if + necessary.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In minute of + August 31st, he farther develops his plans. He there speaks of Post + No. 1 as at Zulla, Post No. 2 as at Senafe, Post No. 3 + as at Antalo, which, he says, <span class="tei tei-q">“will be one of + great importance, and should be very strong.”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Post No. 4 will probably be not far from Socota, + which will also be a very vital point. It is in a difficult and + rugged country, and will be our last main base of supplies from which + the operating force will be supported.”</span> Farther on he says: + <span class="tei tei-q">“It will be necessary to convey to our + extreme base, which for convenience I will call Socota, for the force + required to hold that mountainous country, and for the corps of + operation (probably in all 7000 men), supplies for four + months.”</span> In the same minute he says: <span class= + "tei tei-q">“On advancing from Post No. 2 (Senafe) the leading + division will move forward at once to Antalo, and the remainder of + the advancing force will take post upon the road to cover the transit + of supplies for five months from No. 2 to No. 3, being + posted at stations where they may obtain water and forage, and then + supplies will be passed on to the front for 9000 men. From Antalo the + same process will be repeated until the supplies for 7000 men shall + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page21">[pg 21]</span><a name="Pg021" + id="Pg021" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>have been carried to Post + No. 4 at Socota. From that point the operative column will act + with supplies for one or two months as may be convenient.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">These extracts are + exceedingly interesting, as they show the original plans of the + campaign as laid down by Sir Robert Napier. In the course of the + narrative, it will be seen how entirely this plan had to be deviated + from, owing to the scarcity of food and forage, and the partial + break-down of the transport train; how Post No. 4, described as of + <span class="tei tei-q">“vital”</span> importance, had to be + altogether dispensed with; and how, in consequence, the army, when + within five or six days of Magdala, were almost destitute of + supplies, while their base at Antalo was two hundred miles + distant.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On September 12th + Sir Robert issued an excellent memorandum on the fitting-up of the + ships and the appliances for landing animals, and making many + suggestions for the health and comfort of the troops.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In regard to the + selection of the troops to form the expedition, Sir Robert himself + chose the various regiments. A considerable discussion arose between + the different Presidencies, Madras and Bengal naturally wishing to + contribute as large a quota as possible. Upon this subject the + General wisely said, September 5th: <span class="tei tei-q">“I + consider it especially of advantage to have the native regiments, if + possible, of one army, as they work in harmony with and rely upon + each other; if they are of different Presidencies, feelings of great + bitterness arise when one or other is left in the rear, and + partialities are conjured up as the reason why one or other is not + taken to the front.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Considerable + correspondence took place in relation to the formation and + constitution of the pioneer force, concerning <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page22">[pg 22]</span><a name="Pg022" id="Pg022" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>which the General’s opinion was overruled + by that of his excellency the Governor. The following extract from + memorandum of September 8th fully shows this: <span class= + "tei tei-q">“I concluded that I should receive some formal and + definite information of any change in his excellency’s views or + plans, and I was therefore not prepared to learn from Colonel + Marriott, when the expedition was nearly ready to proceed, that his + Excellency had decided to submit entirely to Colonel Merewether the + responsible duty of determining finally the point of debarkation, and + of converting the reconnoissance into an occupation of the coast by a + body of about 1500 men. Of all the various circumstances which may + have led his Excellency to this conclusion, I am not fully informed; + but I entertain strong objections to the question being left entirely + to Colonel Merewether’s decision,—he being, in compliance with his + Excellency’s opinion (expressed in his Excellency’s note to Colonel + Marriott), in military command of the party,—because, while + concurring entirely with his Excellency in his high estimation of + that officer, it has seemed to me that Colonel Merewether has strong + preconceived opinions in favour of a line of route which from the + most recent reports, especially that of M. Munsinger, appears to me + to be one that would be dangerous to the success of the expedition, + and that his selection of a point of debarkation will be sensibly + influenced by such very strong and sincere opinions.”</span> Sir + Robert Napier’s protest was attended to, and other officers were + associated with Colonel Merewether; but this extract is sufficient to + show how much was done by the Governor of Bombay without the + concurrence or even consultation of Sir Robert Napier.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The general + instructions to the pioneer force were precise: they were directed to + select a place of landing, and then to <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page23">[pg 23]</span><a name="Pg023" id="Pg023" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>inquire about the question of obtaining carriage + and supplies from the natives (this last being Colonel Merewether’s + special duty); and to Colonel Wilkins, R.E., was assigned specially + to determine the adaptability of the shore for landing, the erection + of piers, floating wharves, and shelter of all kinds; he was also + ordered to advise upon the military value of positions selected, and + to assist in general <a name="corr023" id="corr023" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class= + "tei tei-corr">reconnoissance</span>. But the point upon which above + all others General Napier laid stress was, that the pioneer force + should on no account push forward into the high land; he knew that + there could be no possible utility in their so doing, and that it + would entail a great and unnecessary labour to provision them at a + distance from the sea, especially up so difficult a country. Both + upon Colonel Merewether and Colonel Phayre did he impress this point. + In his letter of the 9th October to the former officer he said, + <span class="tei tei-q">“<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">It is not at all intended that this force shall + take up a position on the high ground</span></span>, for which its + strength and composition are unfitted.”</span> Farther on he says, + <span class="tei tei-q">“If news is satisfactory, Staveley’s brigade + will sail, and <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">upon its arrival</span></span> the advance may + be made.”</span> To Colonel Phayre he was equally explicit. In a + letter to him dated 9th October he says, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">It is not of course intended that Colonel Field + should move to the high table-land</span></span> at Dexan, &c., + but merely to take up such position as will cover the dépôt and + protect the cattle.”</span> And again farther on, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“You will understand that it is <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">not my desire to + precipitate a lodgment upon the table-land</span></span>, which we + should have to maintain too long before advancing.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">How these officers + carried out the instructions thus clearly and strongly laid down, we + shall see hereafter.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is needless now + to enter into any detail of the prepara<span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page24">[pg 24]</span><a name="Pg024" id="Pg024" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>tions at Bombay, but it may be said that they + were of the most extensive and complete character. Everything which + could be thought of was provided for the health and comfort of the + troops. Money was lavished like water; but, in the haste and bustle + which prevailed, there is no question that the authorities were in + many cases grossly imposed upon, and that stores were sent out of + quality so utterly bad as to be perfectly useless. I may mention as + an example the boots for the drivers of the transport train, which + never lasted over a week, and very few of which attained even that + comparatively respectable age. As with these, so with many other + stores; but it is probable that cases of this sort are inseparable + from a hastily-prepared expedition. The stores which were + subsequently forwarded were very much better in quality.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">After these + introductory remarks, I begin my narrative from the date of my own + sailing from Bombay.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page25">[pg 25]</span><a name="Pg025" + id="Pg025" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc6" id= + "toc6"></a><a name="pdf7" id="pdf7"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">THE MARCH TO MAGDALA.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc8" id="toc8"></a> <a name="pdf9" id="pdf9"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + On board Transport General Havelock,<br /> + December 1st, 1867. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I am happy to + say that, speaking personally, the Abyssinian expedition has begun. + I am on my way to that cheerful and well-ordered country. Had I + known on landing in Bombay that I should be detained there for a + month, I should have made myself very comfortable, and should have + enjoyed myself exceedingly. But I thought that, although the + Commander-in-chief and the main body of the expedition were not + sailing for two months, I should do better to push on at once. I + accordingly applied for a passage, and was promised one as soon as + possible. This phrase, <span class="tei tei-q">“as soon as + possible,”</span> in the mouth of an ordinary individual, means + something. From an official it means just nothing. It is merely one + of those vague ambiguities in which the official mind delights. It + is a phrase which admits of no argument whatever.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Day after day + passed, and nothing came of it. A steamer or two started, but + although we expressed our willingness to sleep on deck, and put up + with any accommodation whatever, no room could be found. One of our + number, hopeless and disgusted, took passage in the last Peninsular + and <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page26">[pg 26]</span><a name= + "Pg026" id="Pg026" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Oriental steamer, and + is probably at the present moment wandering about Aden, praying for + a passage across. I thought it better to wait here until I could be + taken direct to our destination. At last came the intelligence that + our horses could be put on board a sailing-ship. This was something + done, and I felt really thankful when, after a long day’s work, I + left the ship’s side, leaving the horses and their syces on board. + Indeed, the servant question is one of the most serious of those + which present themselves to the mind of an intending Abyssinian + expeditionist. It is not difficult to get one. You only have to + speak, to get half-a-dozen servants and syces. But you know, both + by the warnings of your friends and by your own instincts, that so + many applicants, so many rogues. It is at present the very best + profession in Bombay to get hired to a master going to Abyssinia, + and to disappear two days before he leaves with his purse and any + other portable valuables which may come handy. My first servant, a + mild Hindoo of engaging aspect, was seized with a pulmonary + affection, while his brother, who was servant to a friend of mine, + was at the last moment melted by the tears of an aged and + despairing mother, and both left us; but not until some hours after + their departure did we find that they had, of course accidentally, + carried away with them a considerable amount of specie and small + valuables. When at last a servant is obtained who really does mean + to go to Abyssinia, there is no little trouble to be gone through + with him. He must have a month’s, or perhaps two months’, pay in + advance. He must have an arrangement made for the payment of the + greater part of his wages to his family during his absence. He must + be provided, at your expense, with warm clothes, boots, blankets, + &c.; and all this with the strong <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page27">[pg 27]</span><a name="Pg027" id="Pg027" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>chance of his bolting at the last moment. One + of my syces alarmed me greatly by not turning up on the morning + when the horses were to be embarked; but he finally appeared upon + the landing-stage just as they were being slung into a lighter, + three hours after the time named. Whether he or any of the syces + finally accompanied the horses I am unable to say, as the ship, + instead of sailing that afternoon as positively settled by the + authorities, was detained three or four days; and it is very + probable that during that time the syces slipped ashore with their + warm clothes, advance of wages, &c. This painful question + cannot be solved until the ship with the horses arrives at Annesley + Bay. Another four or five days passed, and then came the welcome + order to go at once on board the General Havelock, which was to + start the next day at noon. On board we accordingly went, but + found, as we anticipated, that there was no chance of her starting + for that day at any rate. The usual conflict of departments was + taking place. Some department had ordered a force of twenty + European soldiers and fifty Sepoys belonging to the transport train + to come on board. This they did. Then came a committee of some + other department, and questioned whether the Havelock was fit to + carry this force, and whether they had not better be transferred to + some other ship. Finding that the men’s things were all below, it + was determined to leave them as they were. Then the same committee, + with a view, I suppose, of making the vessel more comfortable, + determined to send three and a half tons of gunpowder on board, and + with this intent sent a carpenter in the course of the afternoon, + who took down the only available bath, and prepared to convert the + same into a powder-magazine. The next morning the same carpenter + came <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page28">[pg 28]</span><a name= + "Pg028" id="Pg028" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>on board and brought + some more tools, and then returned to shore. In the afternoon he + fetched the tools away. In the mean time one department had sent + the water-lighter alongside; but another department had sent no + tanks on board to receive it. Presently that department sent some + tanks, but as it had not occurred to it to measure the hatchways, + the tanks were considerably larger than the opening down which they + had to go, so they had to be taken away and a fresh set of tanks + brought on board. Then, long after dusk, the water-ship again came + alongside, and we took in our water. In the mean time we went + ashore to the department which had sent us on board, to ask when it + was probable that the Havelock would really sail. We were assured + by that department that she had already started, and we had great + difficulty in persuading it that she was still at anchor, and + likely to remain so. The next morning, the powder not having + arrived, and nothing more having been heard either of it or of the + carpenter, our captain got up steam and started; and it is by no + means improbable that the powder, with one or two committees of + departments, are at present cruising about Bombay harbour looking + for the Havelock. And yet ours is an absolutely favourable example, + for a steamer last week was detained six days after the date of the + embarkation of its passengers. And if this confusion exists now, + when only one or two vessels are starting a-week, what a scene of + confusion will it be when the main body of the force sails! It + always is so, and always will be so, as long as our army is managed + by a set of independent departments, who have no concert whatever + between them. We have here the quartermaster-general’s department, + the commissariat, the land-transport, the marine, the + adjutant-<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page29">[pg + 29]</span><a name="Pg029" id="Pg029" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>general’s department, the ordnance, and so on + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">ad + infinitum</span></span>. Military men are the first and loudest to + complain of this multiplication of offices without union or + concert, which work together well enough in quiet times, but which + in emergencies paralyse each other’s efforts, and cause a confusion + in exact proportion to their own number. It needs some military + reformer of an iron will, and an assured parliamentary support, to + put an end to all this, to do away with the independence of the + various departments of the service, and to make them all + subordinate branches of the adjutant-general’s office; so that a + general upon service may give his orders to his adjutant-general + only, and the latter may instruct the officers of the departments + under him as to what should be done. All indents and orders should + be given to him alone, and he should be responsible for the working + of the several branches. In some respects it turned out to be as + well that we had not started at the time named, for at night, when + the rations were served out to the troops, it was found that both + the porter and arrack, which form a somewhat important part of a + soldier’s rations, had not been sent on board by the commissariat. + Great was the consternation. However, fortunately next day, while + departments were skirmishing over water and water-tanks, and the + carpenter was going and coming with his tools, there was time to + send to the commissariat, and for them to repair their error.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The General + Havelock is a steamer of about 250 tons, and the object of her + builders appears to have been to combine the maximum of rolling + qualities with the minimum of speed. In calm weather she can steam + six and a half knots an hour; in a slight swell she can roll to an + angle of thirty-<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page30">[pg + 30]</span><a name="Pg030" id="Pg030" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>five degrees. Having said this, I have said + all that can be said in dispraise of the vessel. She has capital + accommodation for a ship of her size, a snug little poop-deck, + extremely comfortable seats and chairs, a perfect absence of any + smell from the engine-room, and one of the jolliest skippers in + existence. So we are very comfortable. We are five in number; three + officers of the Land Transport Corps, and two <span class= + "tei tei-q">“specials;”</span> and as we get under the awnings on + the poop-deck, while a fair breeze is helping us along at the rate + of eight knots an hour, we agree that we have all the advantages of + keeping a steam-yacht without the expense. The charge Government + makes to officers while on board is eight rupees a-day, which is + handed over to the captain of the ship, who has to supply + everything for that sum. I do not think that the captain of the + Havelock will be a gainer by this transaction. We all sleep on + deck, not from necessity, for there are plenty of berths below, but + partly because the nights on deck are charming, although a little + cold, and partly from horror of a species of monster, which appears + to me to be as large as cats—but this may be the effect of + imagination and extreme terror—and to run much faster. They have + many legs, and horns resembling bullocks’. They are fearless of + man, and indeed attack him with ferocity. I call them + vampires—their ordinary name is cockroaches. This sleeping on deck + is attended with occasional drawbacks. Last night I was awakened by + a splash of water on my face. Thinking it was spray, I pulled my + rug over my face, but only for an instant, for a rush of water came + down upon me as if emptied from a bucket. In an instant everyone + was upon his feet, and began dragging his bed over to the leeward + side of the ship. But it was no use. The rain tore <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page31">[pg 31]</span><a name="Pg031" id="Pg031" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>across the deck as if pumped by a + hundred steam fire-engines, and nothing remained for us but to beat + a retreat down through the cabin staylight, for to go outside the + awning by the ordinary poop-ladder was out of the question. Our + first amazement and consternation over, we had a great laugh as we + gained the cabin-floor, drenched through, and with our silk + sleeping-dresses clinging to us in the most uncomfortable manner. + By the time we had changed these the storm was over as suddenly as + it had begun, and taking fresh rugs we soon regained our beds, + which, turned over, were dry enough on the lower side for all + practical purposes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Over the + engine-room is a large bridge-deck, and here are the quarters of + the European soldiers, twenty-five in number, while the sepoys + occupy the main deck. Both the Europeans and sepoys are volunteers + from various regiments into the Land Transport Train. This is a + newly-organised corps, and is only formed for the purposes of the + expedition, both officers and men returning at its conclusion to + their regiments. It is commanded by Major Warden, and consists of + fourteen divisions, each containing two thousand baggage-animals. + To look after each of these divisions are a captain and two + subalterns, together with thirty-eight men—Europeans and sepoys, + who are divided into four classes. When it is remembered that among + the two thousand animals are oxen, horses, mules, camels, and + elephants, and that there will be an attendant to each two animals, + it will be seen that the post of officer in a division of the Land + Transport Corps will be by no means a sinecure. His difficulties, + too, will be heightened by the fact that the drivers will be men of + innumerable nationalities and races—Spaniards and Italians with the + mules, Greeks from Smyrna and Beyrout, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page32">[pg 32]</span><a name="Pg032" id="Pg032" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Egyptians and Nubians, Arabs and Affghans, + together with men from all the varied tribes of India. The sepoys + who are with us do not appear to me at all the sort of men for the + service. They belong entirely to infantry regiments, and are quite + unaccustomed to horses. The Hindoo is not naturally a horseman; and + to take a number of infantry sepoys and put them on horses, and set + them at once to severe work, is an absurdity, which will be + speedily demonstrated to be such by the men being knocked up and in + hospital by the end of the first week. Only men belonging to the + native cavalry should have been allowed to volunteer. It is true + that many of the Europeans also belong to line regiments, but the + same objection does not hold good to them, for most Englishmen are + more or less accustomed to horses, and if not they soon fall into + it.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc10" id="toc10"></a> <a name="pdf11" id="pdf11"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Annesley Bay, December 4th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our voyage has + not terminated so uneventfully as it began, and I am no longer + writing on board the General Havelock, but on the Salsette, a very + fine Peninsular and Oriental steamer, having a portion of the 33d + regiment from Kurrachee on board, and having the Indian Chief, with + another portion of the same regiment, in tow. This Red-Sea + navigation is a most intricate and dangerous business, and this + western shore is in particular completely studded with islands and + coral-reefs. These islands differ entirely in their character—some + are bold rocks rising perpendicularly from the water with rugged + peaks and fantastic outlines, and attaining an elevation of two or + three hundred feet; others, far more dangerous, are long flat + islets, rising only two or <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page33">[pg + 33]</span><a name="Pg033" id="Pg033" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>three feet above the sea, and imperceptible on + a dark night at a distance of fifty yards. Still others, again, + most dangerous of all, have not yet attained the dignity even of + islets, although millions of little insects work night and day to + bring them up to the surface. These are the coral-reefs, which, + rising from a depth of many fathoms to within a few feet of the + surface, form so many pitfalls to the unsuspecting mariner. The + General Havelock was running along the coast with a favourable + breeze, and we had been all the morning watching the low shore, + with its stunted bushes and the strangely-conical hills which rise + from it, bearing a fantastic resemblance to haycocks, and barns, + and saddles, and with a mighty range of mountains in the distance. + These mountains had a strange interest to us, for among and over + them we have to go. They were our first sight of Abyssinia, and + were by no means encouraging as a beginning. In this way we spent + the morning, and after lunch were about to resume doing nothing, + when we were startled by hearing the man who was standing in the + chains heaving the lead, shout out, <span class="tei tei-q">“Five + fathoms!”</span> His call two minutes before had been ten fathoms. + The captain shouted <span class="tei tei-q">“Stop her!”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Turn her astern!”</span> and the chief + engineer leapt below to see the order carried out. In the momentary + pause of the beat of the screw, the leadman’s voice called out + <span class="tei tei-q">“Two fathoms!”</span> The screw was + reversed, and a rush of yellow foaming water past the side of the + ship told us at once that it was at work, and that the sandy bottom + was close to her keel. Very gradually we stopped, and were + congratulating ourselves on the near shave we had had, when, + looking over her side, we saw that, vigorously as the screw was + working astern, the ship remained just where <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page34">[pg 34]</span><a name="Pg034" id="Pg034" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>she was. The General Havelock was + palpably ashore. At first we were disposed to make light of the + affair, for, grounding as she did imperceptibly, we imagined that + she would get off with little difficulty. Accordingly we first + worked ahead, then astern, but with an equal absence of result. The + head and stern both swung round, but she was fast amidships, and + only moved as on a pivot. The troops were now ordered on deck, and + were massed, first aft and then forward; but the General Havelock + gave no sign. Then it was resolved to roll her, the men running in + a body from side to side. Then we tried to jump her off. The whole + of the Europeans and sepoys were set to jump in time—first on one + side, and then on the other. A funnier sight, eighty men, black and + white, leaping up and down, and then going from side to side, could + not be conceived. Everyone laughed except those who swore when + their naked feet were jumped upon by the thick ammunition-boots of + some English soldier. Presently the laughter abated, for everyone + was getting too hot even to laugh. The scene was strangest at this + time, and reminded me, with the leaping figures, the swarthy skins, + and the long hair, more of a New Zealand war-dance than anything I + had ever seen. Hours passed in experiments of this sort, but still + the General Havelock remained immovable, only when the sun went + down and the wind rose she rolled almost as heavily as if afloat, + and lifted on the waves and fell into her bed with a heavy bump + which was very unpleasant. Boats were now lowered and soundings + taken, and it was found that the water was deeper on nearly every + side than at the exact spot upon which we had struck. Hawsers were + got out and the men set to work at the capstan; but the anchors + only drew <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page35">[pg + 35]</span><a name="Pg035" id="Pg035" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>home through the sandy bottom, and brought up + branches of white coral. Part of the crew were all this time + occupied in shifting the cargo. But in spite of every effort the + ship remained perfectly fast. It was evident that she would not + move until a portion at least of her cargo was removed from her. + While we were debating how this was to be done, for the shore on + either side was a good mile distant, the wind fresh, and the boats + small, an Arab dhow, which we had observed running down, anchored + about a hundred yards off. The Sheik came on board, and after + immense talk agreed to come alongside for three or four hours to + take a portion of the cargo and the troops on board, and so to + lighten our ship. When the bargain was closed, and the sum to be + paid agreed upon, he discovered that there was not water enough for + his boat to float alongside. The negotiations thus came to an end, + and the Sheik returned to his own craft. Soon after another and + larger dhow came up and anchored at a short distance. We sent off + to see if he could help us, but it seemed that he had no less than + seventy-two camels on board bound for Annesley Bay. How the poor + brutes could have been stowed in a boat which did not look large + enough to hold twenty at the very most, I cannot imagine, and they + had come in that state all the way from Aden. About an hour after + we had got ashore, a large steamer, which we knew by her number to + be the Salsette, with a ship in tow, had passed at a distance of + about three miles, and to her we signalled for assistance. She, + however, passed on, and anchored with her consort under the lee of + an island, and about six miles off. We had given up all hopes of + aid from her, and had begun as a last resource to throw our coal + overboard, when at nine o’clock in the evening we saw <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page36">[pg 36]</span><a name="Pg036" id="Pg036" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>a boat approaching with a lug-sail. When + she came alongside she turned out to belong to the Salsette, which + had most fortunately orders to anchor at the spot where we had seen + her. We found, on conversation with the officer who had come on + board, that, loaded with troops as she was, it would not be safe + for her to come within towing distance of us, and therefore that + she must leave us to our fate, especially as we did not appear to + be in any immediate danger. They kindly offered, however, to take + my fellow-correspondent and myself on board, an offer which we + gratefully accepted, as it was quite possible that we might not be + off for another week. When we arrived on board the Salsette we were + received with the greatest kindness, and before starting in the + morning had the satisfaction of seeing the signal flying from the + Havelock of <span class="tei tei-q">“We are afloat.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Relieved from + all anxiety on account of our late shipmates, our servants, and our + luggage, we enjoyed the run to Annesley Bay exceedingly. It is an + immense bay, and, indeed, a finer harbour, once in, could hardly be + imagined. The entrance, however, is intricate and dangerous. Long + shoals extend for miles near its mouth, and there are several + islands within the bay itself. All eyes, or rather all telescopes, + were directed towards the spot which was to be our destination. My + glass, one by Salomans, is a wonderful instrument for its size, and + is indeed far better than any I have tried it against since I left + England. My first impressions of our landing-place are, I confess, + anything but pleasing. A mist hangs over the land, which excludes a + view of the hills, or, indeed, of anything except the foreshore. + This is a dead flat, covered with low bushes. The town consists of + about fifty tents and marbuees, a large skeleton of a wooden + storehouse, piles of hay <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page37">[pg + 37]</span><a name="Pg037" id="Pg037" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and + grain-bags, hundreds of baggage-animals, with a throng of natives + wandering about. There is but one pier, and this is still in course + of construction. In the harbour are anchored a dozen or so of + transports and a few native dhows. Some of these dhows are occupied + in transporting forage and stores from the ships to shore; and as + they cannot themselves approach within a distance of a couple of + hundred yards of the shore, long lines of natives transport the + goods upon their heads to land. One ship is unloading mules; this + she accomplishes by lowering them on to a raft, upon which they are + towed with ropes to within a short distance of the shore, when the + horses are pushed or persuaded to alight and walk. The Havelock + came in just before sunset, about two hours after ourselves. I have + not yet been ashore. The Beloochees, who arrived yesterday in the + Asia and the Peckforten Castle, are landing to-day.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc12" id="toc12"></a> <a name="pdf13" id="pdf13"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Annesley Bay, December 6th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I had not + intended to write again until the time of the departure of the next + mail, as my last letter went off only yesterday morning; but two + companies of the 33d regiment are to land this afternoon and to + start at midnight, and as this is the first body of European troops + who have landed, I think it as well to accompany them to Senafe, + sixty miles distant, where Colonels Merewether and Phayre have gone + up with the pioneer force. They will not advance beyond this point + for some time, and I shall therefore, when I have seen the passes, + return, after a few days’ stay there, to this place, which is at + present the main point of interest. I should not move from it, + indeed, were it not that there is <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page38">[pg 38]</span><a name="Pg038" id="Pg038" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>some doubt whether the King of Tigré will + permit us to pass. He is at present stationed near the head of the + pass with a body of 7000 men, but I fancy his only object in this + is to make us buy his friendship at as high a rate as possible. If + he really means mischief it will be a very serious matter indeed; + for, although we should of course scatter his forces easily enough, + it would give us such an enormous line of march to be guarded that + it would be impossible to move a step until we had completely + subdued Tigré. I sincerely hope that this will not be the case. But + another week or two will show; and in the mean time, as I shall + have plenty of opportunities of writing on the subject, I must + return to my present topic, which is the state of things at the + landing-place here. It is not, as I said in my last, a cheerful + place to look at from on board ship, but it is very far worse on + landing. The pier is nearly finished, and is a very creditable + piece of work indeed. It is of stone, and about 300 yards long, and + is wide enough for a double line of rails. One line is already laid + down, and saves an immensity of labour; for the goods are landed + from the native boats, which bring them from the ship’s side, are + put on to the trucks, and are run straight into the commissariat + yard, which is fifty yards only from the end of the pier. Before + this pier was finished everything had to be carried on shore upon + the heads of the natives; and as a boat cannot approach within 300 + yards of shore, owing to the shallow water, it may be imagined how + slowly the work of debarcation went on. The pier is ridiculously + insufficient for the purpose. Even now the ships are lying in the + harbour for days, waiting for means of landing their goods, + although lines of natives still supplement the pier, and pass bales + of goods through <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page39">[pg + 39]</span><a name="Pg039" id="Pg039" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the + water on their heads. When the whole expedition is here there will + be a complete dead-lock, unless a very great increase of landing + accommodation is afforded. The commissariat yard is piled with + enormous quantities of pressed hay, Indian and English, grain, + rice, &c. They are well arranged, and in such weather as we + have at present there is no fear of their taking damage from being + exposed to the air, especially as the precaution has been taken to + have trusses of pressed hay laid down as a foundation for the piles + of grain-bags. The commissariat yard is distinguished by the fact + that here only do we see women—bright-coloured, picturesquely-clad + creatures, a hundred of whom have been sent across from India to + serve as grinders of corn. Beside the commissariat tents are a few + others belonging to the other departments, and these, with a large + unfinished wooden storehouse, at which a dozen Chinese carpenters + are at work, constitute the camp at the landing-place. But this is + only a small portion of the whole, the main camp being a mile and a + half inland; and, indeed, there are half-a-dozen small camps, a + cluster of tents scattered within the circle of a mile.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The reason why + the main camp was fixed at such an inconvenient distance from the + landing-place was, that water was at first obtainable from wells + sunk there. But this supply has ceased some time, and it would be + better to concentrate the offices of the departments near the + landing-place, and that every soul whose presence down here is not + an absolute necessity should be sent up to Koomaylo, which is + fourteen miles inland, and which is the first place at which water + can be obtained. As it is, all living things, man and beast, have + to depend for their supply of water upon the ships. Every steamer + in harbour is at work night and day <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page40">[pg 40]</span><a name="Pg040" id="Pg040" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>condensing water, the average expense being + twopence-halfpenny a gallon for the coal only. The result is of + course an enormous expense to the public, and very great suffering + among the animals.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Leaving the + camp, I proceeded to the watering-place, and here my senses of + sight and smell were offended as they have not been since the days + of the Crimea. Dead mules and camels and oxen lay everywhere upon + the shore, and within a short distance of it. Here and there were + heaps of ashes and charred bones, where an attempt had been made to + burn the carcasses. Others, more lately dead, were surrounded by + vultures, who, gorged with flesh, hardly made an effort to rise as + we approached. One ox had fallen only a few minutes before we + reached it, and several vultures were already eying it, walking + round at a respectful distance, and evidently not quite assured + that the animal was dead. Here and there half-starved mules + wandered about, their heads down, their ears drooping, and their + eyes glazing with approaching death. Some would stagger down to the + sea-side, and taste again and again the salt water; many of them, + half-maddened by thirst, would drink copiously, and either drop + dead where they stood, or crawl away to die in the low scrub.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">More miserable + still was the appearance of the camels. Several native boats were + unloading them at a distance of two or three hundred yards from + shore. The water was not more than three or four feet deep; but + when the poor beasts were turned into it most of them lay down, + with only their heads above water, and positively refused to make + an effort to walk to land. Some never were able to make the effort, + and their bodies drifted here and there in the smooth <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page41">[pg 41]</span><a name="Pg041" id="Pg041" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>water. Some of the camels had got within + fifty yards of shore, and then had lain down, looking, with their + short bodies and long necks, like gigantic water-fowl. Those who + had been driven ashore were in little better plight. Their bones + seemed on the very point of starting through their skin, and they + lay as if dead upon the sand, uttering feebly the almost human + moaning and complainings peculiar to the camel. Others had + recovered a little. These were endeavouring to browse the scanty + leaves on the bushes around. Some of these camels have been twenty + days on the voyage, and during this time have been crowded together + like sheep in a pen, with next to nothing either to eat or drink + during the whole time. The wonder is that any of them survived it. + Government suffers no loss by the death of these unfortunates, as a + contractor agreed to deliver them here in a fair condition, and + only those who survive the voyage, and recover something of their + former strength, are accepted and paid for. At least, this is one + version of the story. The other is, that they are consigned to the + Land Transport Corps. That body, however, receive no intimation of + their coming, and boatload after boatload of camels arrive, and + wander away from the beach to die for want of the water within + their reach. At a mile from the landing-place the scene is painful + in the extreme. Camels and mules wander about in hundreds without + masters, without anything. Here they strive for a few days’ + existence by plucking scanty shoots; here they sicken and die. The + scenes were frightful everywhere, but were worst of all at the + watering-troughs. These were miserably-contrived things. Only ten + or a dozen animals could approach at once; they were so unevenly + placed, that when one end was full to overflowing there was not an + inch of water at <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page42">[pg + 42]</span><a name="Pg042" id="Pg042" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the + other; and beside this, at a time when water was worth its weight + in gold, they leaked badly. They were only supplied with water for + an hour or so in the morning, and for a similar time in the + evening; and in consequence the scene was painful in the extreme. + There was a guard to preserve order, but order could not have been + kept by ten times as many men. There were hundreds of transport + animals, with one driver to each five or six of them. What could + one driver do with six half-mad animals? They struggled, they bit, + they kicked, they fought like wild-beasts for a drink of the + precious water for which they were dying. Besides these led animals + were numerous stragglers, which, having broken their head-ropes, + had gone out into the plain to seek a living on their own account. + For these there was no water; they had no requisition pinned to + their ears, and as they failed thus scandalously to comply with the + regulations laid down by the authorities, the authorities + determined that they should have no water. They were beaten off. + Most of them, after a repulse or two, went away with drooping heads + to die; but some fought for their dear lives, cleared a way to the + trough with heels and teeth, and drank despite the blows which were + showered upon them. I inquired of the Land Transport Corps why + these scattered mules are not collected and fed. I am told that + nearly the whole of these mule- and camel-drivers have deserted and + gone to Massowah. And so it is. The mules and camels are dying of + thirst and neglect; the advanced brigade cannot be supplied with + food; the harbour is becoming full of transports, because there are + no means of taking the men inland, although there are plenty of + animals; and all this because the land transport men desert. The + officers of that corps work like slaves; they are up early and + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page43">[pg 43]</span><a name="Pg043" + id="Pg043" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>late, they saddle mules with + their own hands, and yet everything goes wrong. Why is all this? + One reason undoubtedly is, that the animals have been sent on + before the men. A few officers and a comparatively small body of + native followers are sent out, and to them arrive thousands of + bullocks, thousands of mules, thousands of camels. The Arab + followers, appalled by the amount of work accumulating upon them, + desert to a man, the officers are left helpless. Had a fair number + of officers and followers been sent on to receive the animals as + they came, all might have gone well. It was simply a + miscalculation. And so it is, I regret to say, in some other + departments. You apply for a tent, and are told there are no + bell-tents whatever arrived. You ask for a pack-saddle, and are + told by the quartermaster-general that there is not a single + pack-saddle in hand, and that hundreds of mules are standing idle + for want of them. You ask for rations, and are informed that only + native rations have yet arrived, and that no rations for Europeans + have been sent, with the exception of the sixty days’ provisions + the 33d regiment have brought with them. Why is this? There are + scores of transports lying in Bombay harbour doing nothing. Why, in + the name of common sense, are they not sent on? The nation is + paying a very fair sum for them, and there they lie, while the + departments are pottering with their petty jealousies and their + petty squabbles.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The fact is, we + want a head here. Colonels Merewether and Phayre have gone five + days’ march away, taking with them all the available transport. + Brigadier-General Collings only arrived yesterday, and of course + has not as yet been able to set things in order. I am happy to say + that General Staveley arrived last night, and I believe that he + will soon <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page44">[pg + 44]</span><a name="Pg044" id="Pg044" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>bring some order into this chaos. The fact is, + that in our army we leave the most important branch of the service + to shift for itself. Unless the Land Transport Train is able to + perform its duty, nothing can possibly go right; but the Land + Transport Corps has no authority and no power. It is nobody’s + child. The commissariat owns it not, the quartermaster and + adjutant-general know nothing whatever of it. It may shift for + itself. All the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">lâches</span></span> of all the departments + are thrown upon its shoulders, and the captains who are doing the + work may slave night and day; but unaided and unassisted they can + do nothing. The land transport should be a mere subordinate branch + of the commissariat; that department should be bound to supply food + at any required point. Now, all they have to do is to join the + other departments in drawing indents for conveyance upon the + unhappy land transport, and then sitting down and thanking their + gods that they have done everything which could be expected of + them. General Staveley is an energetic officer, and will, I + believe, lose no time in putting things straight. Even to-day + things look more hopeful, for General Collings yesterday afternoon + put the services of 200 Madras dhoolie-bearers at the disposition + of the Transport Corps to supply the place of the mule- and + camel-drivers who have deserted. I have therefore every hope that + in another week I shall have a very different story to tell. In + addition, however, to the mortality caused by the voyage, by + hardships, and by bad food and insufficient water, there is a great + mortality among the horses and mules from an epidemic disease which + bears a strong resemblance to the cattle-plague. Ten or twelve of + the mules die a day from it, and the 3d Native Cavalry lost ninety + horses from it while they were here. The <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page45">[pg 45]</span><a name="Pg045" id="Pg045" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>district is famous, or rather infamous, for + this epidemic; and the tribes from inland, when they come down into + the plain, always leave their horses on the plateau, and come down + on foot. The Soumalis and other native tribes along this shore are + a quarrelsome lot, and fights are constantly occurring among the + native workmen, who inflict serious, and sometimes fatal, injuries + upon each other with short, heavy clubs resembling Australian + waddies. The washing, at least such washing as is done, is sent up + to Koomaylo. Yesterday two dhoolies, or washermen, were bringing a + quantity of clothes down to the camp, when they were set upon by + some natives, who killed one and knocked the other about terribly, + and then went off with the clothes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Some of the + ships have brought down the horses in magnificent condition. The + Yorick, which has carried the horses of the officers of the 33d, is + a model of what a horse-ship should be. The animals are ranged in + stalls along the whole length of her main-deck, and the width is so + great that there is room for a wide passage on either side of the + mast. These passages were laid down with cocoa-nut matting, and the + animals were taken out every day—except once when the vessel rolled + too much—and walked round and round for exercise. In consequence + they arrived in just as good condition as they were in upon the day + of starting. While I am writing, the Great Victoria is signalled as + in sight. This vessel contains, it is said, the Snider rifles, the + warm clothing, the tents, and many other important necessaries. Her + arrival, therefore, will greatly smooth difficulties and enable the + troops to advance.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the time that + the above letter was written I had only <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page46">[pg 46]</span><a name="Pg046" id="Pg046" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>been a few hours upon shore, and was of course + unable to look deeper than the mere surface. I could therefore only + assign the most apparent reason for the complete break-down of the + transport train. The disaster has now become historical, and + rivalled, if it did not surpass, that of the worst days of the + Crimea; and as for a time it paralysed the expedition, and + exercised throughout a most disastrous influence, it is as well, + before we proceed up the country, that we should examine thoroughly + into its causes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">After a + searching inquiry into all that had taken place prior to my + arrival, I do not hesitate to ascribe the break-down of the + transport train to four causes, and in this opinion I may say that + I am thoroughly borne out by ninety-nine out of every hundred + officers who were there. The first cause was the inherent weakness + of the organisation of the transport train, the ridiculous paucity + of officers, both commissioned and noncommissioned, the want of + experienced drivers, and the ignorance of everyone as to the + working of a mule-train. The second cause was the mismanagement of + the Bombay authorities in sending animals in one ship, drivers in + another, and equipments scattered throughout a whole fleet of + transports, instead of sending each shipload of animals complete + with their complement of drivers and equipments, as was done by the + Bengal authorities. The third cause was the grossly-overcoloured + reports of the officers of the pioneer force as to the state of + water and forage, and which induced the Bombay authorities to hurry + forward men and animals, to find only a bare and waterless desert. + The fourth reason was the conduct of the above-mentioned officers + in marching with all the troops to Senafe, in direct disobedience + of the orders they had received. This last <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page47">[pg 47]</span><a name="Pg047" id="Pg047" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>cause was the most fatal of all. In spite of + the first three causes all might, and I believe would, have gone + tolerably well, had it not been for the fourth.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At Koomaylo and + at Hadoda, each thirteen miles distant from Zulla, there was water + in abundance, together with bushes and browsing-ground for the + camels. Had the animals upon landing been taken at once to these + places, and there allowed to remain until the time approached for a + general forward movement of the whole army, as Sir Robert Napier + had directed, everything would have gone well. The officers would + have had plenty of time to have effected a thorough and perfect + organisation; the men would have learnt their new duties, and would + have acquired some sort of discipline; the camels could have gone + to Zulla and brought out forage for the mules; not an animal need + have remained at Zulla, not one have suffered from thirst; and the + immense expense of condensing water for them would have been + avoided, besides the saving of life of many thousands of animals. + But what happened? As I have shown in the previous chapter, General + Napier had said to Colonel Merewether, in his parting instructions, + <span class="tei tei-q">“It is not at all intended that this force + shall take up a position upon the high land, for which its strength + and composition are not fitted;”</span> and again, he had written + at the end of October, <span class="tei tei-q">“that if the news + were satisfactory, Staveley’s Brigade would sail, and <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">upon its + arrival</span></span> the advance may be made.”</span> To Colonel + Phayre he had written October 9th: <span class="tei tei-q">“It is + not of course intended that Colonel Field should move to the high + table-land at Dexan, &c., but shall merely take up such + position as will cover the dépôt and protect the cattle;”</span> + and again, in the same letter: <span class="tei tei-q">“You will + understand that it is not my desire <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page48">[pg 48]</span><a name="Pg048" id="Pg048" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>to precipitate a lodgment upon the table-land, + which we should have to retain too long before advancing.”</span> + General Napier, then, had been as explicit as it was possible for a + man to be in his orders that no advance should take place; and he + had specially said, in his memorandum of 7th September, the subject + of the transport train, that <span class="tei tei-q">“great care + should be taken to prevent their being overworked.”</span> And yet, + in spite of these orders, Colonels Merewether and Phayre, together + with Colonel Wilkins,—to whom the making of piers, &c., had + been specially assigned by the General in his instructions to the + pioneer force,—with Colonel Field and the whole of the troops, + start up to Senafe on or about the 1st of December! And this at a + time when two or three large transports might be expected to arrive + daily! The consequences which might have been expected ensued. The + unfortunate animals, the instant they arrived, were saddled, + loaded, and hurried off without a day to recover from the fatigue + of the voyage. The muleteers were in like way despatched, without a + single hour to acquire a notion of their duties.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Senafe is five + days’ march from Zulla, up a ravine of almost unparalleled + difficulty.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Up and down this + ravine the wretched animals stumbled and toiled, starving when in + the pass, and dying of thirst during their brief pauses at Zulla; + the fortunate ones dying in scores upon the way, and the less happy + ones incurring disease of the lungs, which, after a few painful + weeks, brought them to the welcome grave. And all this to feed + Colonels Merewether and Phayre and the troops at Senafe. + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Cui + bono?</span></span> No one can answer. No one to this day has been + able to offer the slightest explanation of the extraordinary course + adopted by these officers. If Colonel Mere<span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page49">[pg 49]</span><a name="Pg049" id="Pg049" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>wether had felt it his duty to go to Senafe in + order to enter into political relations with the chiefs in the + neighbourhood, and to arrange for the purchase of animals and food, + a small escort would have enabled him to do so. Not only was their + absence disastrous to the mule-train, but it was productive of the + greatest confusion at Zulla. There no one was left in command. + Astounding as it may appear to every military man, here, at a port + at which an amount of work scarcely, if ever, equalled, had to be + got through, with troops, animals, and stores arriving daily in + vast quantities, there was at the time of my arrival absolutely no + <span class="tei tei-q">“officer commanding,”</span>—not even a + nominal head. Each head of department did his best; but, like Hal + o’ the Wynd, he fought for his own hand. The confusion which + resulted may be imagined but cannot be described. Having thus + briefly adverted to the causes which led to the breakdown of the + transport train, I continue my journal.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc14" id="toc14"></a> <a name="pdf15" id="pdf15"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Koomaylo, December 9th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I mentioned in + my letter of two days since, that the news from the front was, that + the King of Tigré, with an army of 7000 men, was inclined to make + himself unpleasant. Our last <span class= + "tei tei-q">“shave,”</span> that of yesterday, goes into the + opposite extreme, and tells us that the Kings of Shoa and Lasta + have both sent to Colonel Merewether, and have offered to attack + Theodore. The hostilities and the alliances of the kings of these + tribes are, of course, matters of importance; but as these native + potentates seldom know their own minds for many hours together, and + change from a state of friendship to one of hostility at a moment’s + notice, or for a fancied affront, I do not attach much importance + to any of them, with the ex<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page50">[pg + 50]</span><a name="Pg050" id="Pg050" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>ception of the King of Tigré, through whose + dominions we have to pass. If he allows us to pass to and fro + without interference, we can do very well without the alliance of + Shoa or of Lasta. We are strong enough to conquer Theodore, even if + he were backed by the three kings named; and now we have got + everything ready, the difference of expense between a war of a few + weeks’ duration and one of twice as many months, will be + comparatively trifling. As for the troops, nothing would cause such + disgust as to return without doing anything, after all the + preparations which have been made. I do not think, however, that it + would make much difference in our movements now, even if the + prisoners are given up. Of course, had they been released a year + ago, in consequence of our entreaties or in exchange for our + presents, we should have been contented; but now we must demand + something more than a mere delivery of the prisoners. There is + compensation to be made for their long and painful sufferings, and + an attempt at any rate made to obtain some sort of payment for our + enormous expenses. I attach, therefore, little importance to what + is doing at Senafe, but consider the state of the preparations at + the landing-place at Annesley Bay to be the central point of + interest. For the last two days much has been done towards getting + things in order. Pack-saddles in abundance have been landed. Sir + Charles Staveley has disembarked, and is hard at work; and in the + Land Transport Corps, in particular, great things have been done. + Captain Twentyman, who is in command, laid a number of suggestions + before the general, which he at once sanctioned. Fodder was strewed + near the watering-place, and as the starving animals strayed down + they were captured. One hundred and fifty of them were handed over + to the Beloo<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page51">[pg + 51]</span><a name="Pg051" id="Pg051" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>chee regiment, whose men cheerfully + volunteered to look after them. Tubs were obtained from the + commissariat to supplement the absurdly-insufficient troughs at the + watering-place, and which were only kept full of water at certain + times of the day. The 200 Madras dhoolie bearers, who have been + transferred to the transport, are doing good work, and there is + every hope that in another week things will be straight, and the + wretched stragglers who at present shock one with their sufferings + be again safely hobbled in line with other animals.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The work which + the officers of this corps get through is prodigious. Captains + Twentyman, Warren, and Hodges, and Lieutenant Daniels, are + beginning to forget what a bed is like, for they are at work and + about for more than twenty hours out of the twenty-four. Indeed, I + must say that I never saw a greater devotion to duty than is shown + by the officers of the various departments. The quartermaster’s + department, the commissariat, and others, vie with each other in + the energy which they exhibit, and the only thing to be wished is + that there were a little more unanimity in their efforts. Each + works for himself. Whereas if they were only branches of an + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">intendance générale</span></span>, the heads + of the departments might meet each other and their chief of an + evening, each state their wants and their wishes, concert together + as to the work to be performed next day, and then act with a + perfect knowledge of what was to be got through. However, this is a + Utopia which it is vain to sigh for. Probably till the end of time + we shall have separate departments and divided responsibilities; + and between the stools the British soldier will continue to fall, + and that very heavily, to the ground.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page52">[pg 52]</span><a name="Pg052" id="Pg052" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the afternoon + of the 7th the first two companies of the 33d regiment were to + land; and this spectacle was particularly interesting, as they were + the first European regiment to land upon the shores of Abyssinia. A + large flat, towed by a steam-barge, came alongside, and the men, + with their kit-bags and beds, embarked on board them. As they did + so, the regimental band struck up, the men and their comrades on + board ship cheering heartily. It was very exciting, and made one’s + blood dance in one’s veins; but to me there is always something + saddening in these spectacles. This is the third <span class= + "tei tei-q">“<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Partant pour la Syrie</span></span>”</span> + that I have seen. I witnessed the Guards parade before Buckingham + Palace. I saw them cheer wildly as the band played and the Queen + waved her handkerchief to them; and six months afterwards I saw + them, a shattered relic of a regiment, in the Crimea. Last year I + described a scene in Piacenza, on the eve of the march of the + Italian army into the Quadrilateral. There, too, were patriotic + songs and hearty cheerings, there were high hopes and brave hearts. + A week after I saw them hurled back again from the land they had + invaded, defeated by a foe they almost despised. Fortunately, in + the present case I have no similar catastrophe to anticipate. As + far as fighting goes, her Majesty’s 33d regiment need fear nothing + they will meet in Abyssinia, or, indeed, in any part of the world. + It is a regiment of veterans; it won no slight glory in the Crimea, + and a few months later it was hurried off to aid in crushing the + Indian mutiny. In India they have been ever since, and are as fine + and soldierlike a set of men as could be found in the British army. + We were to have landed at two o’clock, but a few of the little + things which always are found to be done at the last moment delayed + us half <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page53">[pg 53]</span><a name= + "Pg053" id="Pg053" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>an hour; and that + delay of half an hour completely changed the whole plans of the + day. It had been intended that, after landing, the men should + remain quiet until five o’clock, by which time the heat of the day + would be over; that they should then pack the baggage upon the + camels, which were to start at once with a guard, that the men + should lie down and sleep till midnight, and that they should then + march, so as to arrive at Koomaylo at five o’clock in the morning. + All these arrangements, admirable in their way, were defeated by + this little half-hour’s delay. There was not a breath of wind when + we left the ship, but in the quarter of an hour the passage + occupied the sea-breeze rushed down, and when we reached the pier + the waves were already breaking heavily. Time after time the + man-of-war’s boats came to us as we lay thirty yards off, and took + off a load each time; once, too, we drifted so close to the end of + the pier that the men were able to leap off upon the rough stones. + In this way all the troops got off except the baggage-guard. But by + this time the surf had increased so much, that the boats could no + longer get alongside; accordingly the tug had to tow the barge a + couple of hundred yards out, and there to remain until the + sea-breeze dropped. In consequence it was nine in the evening + before the baggage got ashore, and nearly one in the morning before + the camels had their loads; and even then some of the men’s beds + had to be left behind. Considering the extreme lateness of the + hour, and the fact that the moon would soon be down, I thought it + best to get a sleep until daylight. Under the shelter of a friendly + tent I lay down upon the sand until five o’clock, and then, after + the slight toilet of a shake to get rid of loose sand, I + started.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The road from + Annesley Bay to Koomaylo can hardly be <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page54">[pg 54]</span><a name="Pg054" id="Pg054" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>termed either interesting or strongly defined. + It at first goes straight across the sand, and, as the sand is + trampled everywhere, it is simply impossible to follow it. We were + told that the route lay due west, but that just where the jungle + began there was a sign-post. Compass in hand, we steered west, and + entered the low thorny scrub which constitutes the jungle. No + sign-post. We rode on for a mile, when, looking back at the rising + sun, I saw something like a sign-post in the extreme distance. + Riding back to it, it proved to be the desired guide, and the road + from here is by daylight distinct enough. For the first six miles + it runs across a dead-level of sand, covered with a shrub with very + small and very scanty leaves, and very large and extremely-abundant + thorns. Bustards, grouse, deer, and other game are said to be very + abundant here, but we saw none of them. A sort of large hawk was + very numerous, but these were the only birds we saw. At about six + miles from the sea the ground rises abruptly for about ten feet in + height, and this rise ran north and south as far as the eye could + reach. It marked unquestionably the level of the sea at some not + very remote period. From this point the plain continued flat, + sandy, and bushy as before for two miles; but after that a rocky + crag rose, rather to our right, and the sand became interspersed + with stones and boulders. Our path lay round behind the hill, and + then we could see, at about four miles’ distance, a white tent or + two, at the mouth of an opening in the mountain before us. These + white tents were the camp at Koomaylo. About three miles from + Koomaylo we came upon a very curious burial-place. It was in a low + flat, close to a gully, and covered a space of perhaps fifty yards + square. The graves were placed very close together, and consisted + of square piles of stones, not thrown <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page55">[pg 55]</span><a name="Pg055" id="Pg055" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>together, but built up, about three feet + square and as much high. They were crowned by a rough pyramid of + stones, the top one being generally white. Underneath these stone + piles was a sort of vault. From this point the ground rose more + steeply than it had yet done.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Koomaylo is + situated at the mouth of the pass which takes its name from it. The + valley here is about half-a-mile wide. It is rather over thirteen + miles from the sea, and is said to be 415 feet above the sea-level; + but it does not appear to be nearly so high. At any rate, its + height does not make it any cooler; for, hot as it is at Annesley + Bay, it is at least as hot here. The greatest nuisance I have at + present met with in Abyssinia are the flies, which are as numerous + and irritating as they are in Egypt. Fortunately they go to sleep + when the sun goes down; and as there are no mosquitoes to take + their place, one is able to sleep in tranquillity. We found on + arriving at Koomaylo that the troops had not been in very long. + They had got scattered in the night, owing to some of the camels + breaking down; had lost their guides, lost each other, and lost the + way. Finally, however, all the troops came in in a body under their + officers at about eight o’clock. The animals were not quite so + unanimous in their movements; for a number of them took quite the + wrong road, and went to Hadoda, a place about six miles from here, + to the north, and twelve miles from Zulla. There are wells there, + so they got a drink, and came on in the course of the day. A few, + however, have not yet turned up, and one of these missing animals + bore a portion of my own luggage and stores. The others will + perhaps arrive; but I have a moral conviction that that animal will + never again make his appearance. As the men were too tired upon + their arrival <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page56">[pg + 56]</span><a name="Pg056" id="Pg056" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to + pitch their tents, many of which indeed had not yet arrived, they + were allowed to take possession of a number of tents which had been + pitched for head-quarters. When we arrived they were all shaken + down; the men were asleep in the tents, and the camels had gone + down to water. The first step was to go down to water our horses + and mules, the next to draw rations for ourselves, our followers, + and beasts. The watering-place is a quarter of a mile from this + camp, which is on rather rising ground. The wells are, of course, + in the bed of what in the rainy season must be a mighty torrent + fifty yards wide.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have seen many + singular scenes, but I do not know that I ever saw a stranger one + than these wells presented. They are six in number, are twelve or + fourteen feet across, and about twelve feet deep. They are dug + through the mass of stones and boulders which forms the bed of the + stream, and three of the six have a sort of wooden platform, upon + which men stand to lower the buckets to the water by ropes. The + other wells have sloping sides, and upon them stand sets of + natives, who pass buckets from hand to hand, and empty them into + earth troughs, or rather mud basins, from which the animals drink. + The natives while so engaged keep up the perpetual chant without + which they seem to be unable to do any work. The words of this + chant vary infinitely, and they consist almost always of two words + of four or five syllables in all; which are repeated by the next + set of men, with the variation of one of the syllables, and in a + tone two notes lower than that used by the first set. Round these + wells are congregated a vast crowd of animals—flocks of goats and + small sheep, hundreds in number, strings of draught-bullocks, + mules, ponies, horses, and camels, hundreds of natives, with their + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page57">[pg 57]</span><a name="Pg057" + id="Pg057" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>scanty attire, their spears, + their swords exactly resembling reaping-hooks, and their heavy + clubs. Here are their wives and sisters, some of them in the + ordinary draped calico, others very picturesquely attired in + leathern petticoats, and a body-dress of a sort of sheet of + leather, going over one shoulder and under the other arm, covering + the bust, and very prettily ornamented with stars and other + devices, formed of white shells. Round their necks they wear + necklaces of red seeds and shells. Some of them are really very + good-looking, with remarkably intelligent faces. The scene round + the wells is very exciting, for the animals press forward most + eagerly, and their attendants have the greatest difficulty in + preserving order, especially among the mules and camels. The + supply, however, is equal to the demand, and by the end of the day + the wells are nearly deserted, except by the soldiers, who like to + go down and draw their water fresh from the wells. The upper wells, + where buckets with ropes only are used, are really very fair water; + those for the animals are not clear, but are still drinkable. All + have a taste somewhat resembling the water from peat-bogs. Natives + are employed digging more wells, which can be done, for the + quantity which is drawn appears to make little or no difference in + the level of the water in the present wells. Some of the camels + occasionally get quite furious; to-day I saw one, whose saddle had + slipped round under its belly, begin to jump and plunge most + wildly, with its head in the air, and uttering the most uncouth + cries. There was a general stampede, especially among the mules, + many of whom have, I fancy, never seen a camel before. It was some + minutes before the animal could be caught and forced down upon its + knees by its driver, and by that time he had quite cleared the + ground in his neighbourhood. The camels are kept as much + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page58">[pg 58]</span><a name="Pg058" + id="Pg058" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>as possible kneeling, and + there were a hundred or two near him at the time he commenced his + evolutions. When one camel rises, all in his neighbourhood always + endeavour to do the same; and the efforts of these beasts to rise, + the shouts of their drivers, and the stampede of the mules, made up + a most laughable scene. Near the wells is another large graveyard; + the tombs here are rather more ornate than those I have already + described, some of them being round, and almost all having courses + of white quartz stones. Upon the top of many of these tombs are two + or three flat stones, placed on end, and somewhat resembling small + head- and foot-stones. As there is no inscription upon them it + would be curious to find out the object with which the natives + erect them.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Having finished + watering our horses, we proceeded to the commissariat tent. Here an + immense quantity of work is got through, all the animals and men + drawing their rations daily; and I have heard no complaint of any + sort, except that some Parsees, while I was getting my rations, + came up and complained bitterly because there was no mutton, and it + was contrary to their religion to eat beef. The commissariat + officer regretted the circumstance, but pointed out that at present + no sheep had been landed, and that the little things of the country + are mere skin and bone, and quite unfitted for the troops. The + Parsees, who were, I believe, clerks to one of the departments, + went off highly discontented. The moral of this evidently is that + Parsees should not go to war in a country where mutton is scarce. + As for the Hindoos, I cannot even guess how they will preserve + their caste intact. It is a pity that their priests could not give + them a dispensation to put aside all their caste observances for + the time they may be out of India. <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page59">[pg 59]</span><a name="Pg059" id="Pg059" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>As it is, I foresee we shall have very great + difficulty with them.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc16" id="toc16"></a> <a name="pdf17" id="pdf17"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Koomaylo, December 12th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When I wrote two + days ago I hardly expected to have dated another letter from + Koomaylo. I had prepared to start for Senafe, leaving my baggage + behind me, and returning in ten days or so. The great objection to + this plan was that neither at Zulla nor here are there any huts or + stores where things can be left. The only thing to be done, + therefore, was to leave them in the tent of some friend; but as he, + too, might get the route at any moment, it would have been, to say + the least of it, a very hazardous proceeding. The night before + last, however, I received the joyful and long-expected news that + the ship which had left Bombay with my horses six days before I + started myself was at last in harbour. My course was now clear; I + should go down, get my horses, and then go up to Senafe, carrying + my whole baggage with me. Vessels and troops are arriving every + day, and the accumulations of arrears of work are increasing in + even more rapid proportion. Major Baigrie, the + quartermaster-general, is indefatigable, but he cannot unload + thirty large vessels at one little jetty, at whose extremity there + is only a depth of five feet of water. Unless something is done, + and that rapidly, and upon an extensive scale, we shall break down + altogether. It is evident that a jetty, at which at most three of + these country boats can lie alongside to unload, is only sufficient + to afford accommodation for one large ship, and that it would take + several days to discharge her cargo of say one thousand tons, using + the greatest despatch possible. How, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page60">[pg 60]</span><a name="Pg060" id="Pg060" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>then, can it be hoped that the vessels in the + harbour, whose number is increasing at the rate of two or three + a-day, are to be unloaded? In the Crimea great distress was caused + because the ships in Balaclava harbour could not manage to + discharge their stores. But Balaclava harbour offered facilities + for unloading which were enormous compared to this place. There was + a wharf a quarter of a mile long, with deep water alongside, so + that goods could be rolled down planks or gangways to the shore + from the vessels. The harbour was land-locked, and the work of + unloading never interrupted. Compare that with the present state of + things. A boat-jetty running out into five-foot water, and only + approachable for half the day owing to the surf, and, as I hear, + for months not approachable at all. It can be mathematically proved + that the quantity of provision and forage which can be landed from + these boats, always alongside for so many hours a-day, would not + supply the fifth of the wants of twenty-five thousand men and as + many animals. Everything depends upon what the state of the + interior of the country is. If we find sufficient forage for the + animals and food for the men—which the most sanguine man does not + anticipate—well and good. If not, we must break down. It is simply + out of the question to land the stores with the present + arrangements in Annesley Bay, or with anything like them. The + pier-accommodation must be greatly increased, and must be made + practical in all weather, that is to say, practical all day in + ordinary weather. To do this the pier should be run out another + fifty yards, and should then have a cross-pier erected at its + extremity. The native boats could lie under the lee of this and + unload in all weathers, and there would <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page61">[pg 61]</span><a name="Pg061" id="Pg061" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>be sufficient depth of water for the smaller + transports to lie alongside on the outside in calm weather, and to + unload direct on to the pier. I know that this would be an + expensive business, that stone has to be brought from a distance, + &c. But it is a necessity, and therefore expense is no object. + I consider that the railway which is to be laid between the + landing-place and this point will be of immense utility to the + expedition; but I believe it to be a work of quite inferior + importance in comparison with this question of increased + pier-accommodation. There is no doubt that in spite of the troops + and animals arriving from Bombay before things were ready for them + here, things would have gone on far better than they have done, had + there been any head to direct operations here. But the officers of + the various departments have been working night and day without any + head whatever to give unity and object to their efforts. I + understand that General Staveley was astonished to find that before + the arrival of General Collings, two days previous to himself, + there had been no head to the expedition.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Sir Robert + Napier was fully alive to the extreme importance of this question + of wharfage, for in his memorandum of September 12th he recommended + that planking, tressles, piles, and materials to construct wharves + should be forwarded with the 1st Brigade. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“There cannot,”</span> he proceeded, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“be too many landing-places to facilitate debarkation, + and on such convenience will depend the boats being quickly + cleared, and the stores removed from them dry. It would be + advisable that a considerable number of empty casks should be + forwarded to be used as rafts, or to form <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page62">[pg 62]</span><a name="Pg062" id="Pg062" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>floating-wharves for use at low water, + particularly should the shores shelve gently. Spars to form + floating shears should also be forwarded.”</span> Thus Sir Robert + Napier, himself an engineer, had long before foreseen the extreme + importance of providing the greatest possible amount of landing + accommodation; and yet three months after this memorandum was + written, and two months after the arrival of the pioneer force at + Zulla, an unfinished pier was all that had been effected, and + Colonel Wilkins, the officer to whom this most important work had + been specially intrusted, was quietly staying up at Senafe with + Colonels Merewether, Phayre, and Field. A second pier was not + completed until the end of February, and consequently many vessels + remained for months in harbour before their cargoes could be + unloaded, at an expense and loss to the public service which can + hardly be over-estimated.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had quite a + small excitement here this afternoon. I was writing quietly, and + thinking what a hot day it was, when I heard a number of the + soldiers running and shouting. I rushed to the door of my tent and + saw a troop of very large monkeys trotting along, pursued by the + men, who were throwing stones at them. Visions of monkey-skins + flashed across my mind, and in a moment, snatching up revolvers and + sun-helmets, three or four of us joined the chase. We knew from the + first that it was perfectly hopeless, for the animals were safe in + the hills, which extended for miles. However, the men scattered + over the hills, shouting and laughing, and so we went on also, and + for a couple of hours climbed steadily on, scratching ourselves + terribly with the thorn-bushes which grow everywhere—and to which + an <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page63">[pg 63]</span><a name= + "Pg063" id="Pg063" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>English + quickset-hedge is as nothing—and losing many pounds in weight from + the effect of our exertions. Hot as it was, I think that the climb + did us all good. Indeed, the state of the health of everyone out + here is most excellent, and the terrible fevers and all the + nameless horrors with which the army was threatened in its march + across the low ground, turn out to be the effect of the imagination + only of the well-intentioned but mischievous busybodies who have + for the last six months filled the press with their most dismal + predictions. I have heard many a hearty laugh since I have been + here at all the evils we were threatened would assail us in the + thirteen miles between Annesley Bay and this place. We were to die + of fever, malaria, sunstroke, tetse-fly, Guinea-worm, tapeworm, and + many other maladies. It is now nearly three months since the first + man landed, and upon this very plain there are at present thousands + of men, including the Beloochee regiment and other natives, + hundreds, taking Europeans only, of officers, staff and + departmental, with the conductors, inspectors, and men of the + transport, commissariat, and other departments. From the day of the + first landing to the present time there has not been one death, or + even an illness of any consequence, among all these men upon this + plain of death. As for the two companies of the 33d, their surgeon + tells me that the general state of their health is better than in + India, for that there has not been a single case of fever or + indisposition of any kind in the five days since they landed, + whereas in India there were always a proportion of men in hospital + with slight attacks of fever. All this is most gratifying, and I + believe that all the other dangers and difficulties will, when + confronted, prove to have been equally exaggerated. The + difficulties of the pass to the <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page64">[pg 64]</span><a name="Pg064" id="Pg064" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>first plateau, 7000 feet above the sea, have + already proved to be insignificant. There are only four miles of at + all difficult ground, and this has already been greatly obviated by + the efforts of the Bombay Sappers. The December rains have not yet + begun, but yesterday and to-day we have heavy clouds hanging over + the tops of the mountains. The rain would be a very great boon, and + would quite alter the whole aspect of the country. The whole + country, indeed, when not trampled upon, is covered with dry, + burnt-up herbage, presenting exactly the colour of the sand, but + which only needs a few hours’ rain to convert it into a green plain + of grass, sufficient for the forage of all the baggage-animals in + the camp.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">While I have + been writing this the Beloochees and a company of Bombay Sappers + and Miners have marched into camp, with their baggage and camels. + The Beloochees are a splendid regiment—tall, active, + serviceable-looking men as ever I saw. Their dress is a dark-green + tunic, with scarlet facings and frogs, trousers of a lighter green, + a scarlet cap, with a large black turban around it; altogether a + very picturesque dress. The Sappers and Miners are in British + uniform. Both these corps go on early to-morrow morning to Upper + Sooro. I have not decided yet whether I shall accompany them, or go + on by myself this evening.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A letter has + just come down from Colonel Merewether saying that all is going on + well at Senafe. The King of Tigré has sent in his adhesion, and + numbers of petty chiefs came in riding on mules, and followed by + half-a-dozen ragged followers on foot, to make their <span class= + "tei tei-q">“salaam.”</span> I do not know that these petty chiefs, + who are subjects of the King of Tigré, are of much importance one + way or another, but their friendship would be useful if they would + bring in a few hundred <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page65">[pg + 65]</span><a name="Pg065" id="Pg065" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>head of bullocks and a few flocks of sheep. It + is, I understand, very cold up there, and the troops will have need + of all their warm clothing.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc18" id="toc18"></a> <a name="pdf19" id="pdf19"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Upper Sooro, December 13th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I must begin my + letter by retracting an opinion I expressed in my last, namely, + that the defile would probably turn out a complete bugbear, as the + fevers, guinea-worm, and tetse flies have done. My acquaintance + with most of the passes of the Alps and Tyrol is of an extensive + kind, but I confess that it in no way prepared me for the passage + of an Abyssinian defile. I can now quite understand travellers + warning us that many of these places were impracticable for a + single horseman, much less for an army with its baggage-animals. + Had not Colonel Merewether stated in his report that the first time + he explored the pass he met laden bullocks coming down it, I should + not have conceived it possible that any beast of burden could have + scrambled over the terrible obstacles. Even now, when the Bombay + Sappers have been at work for three weeks upon it, it is the + roughest piece of road I ever saw, and only practicable for a + single animal at once. It is in all twelve miles; at least, so it + is said by the engineers, and we took, working hard, seven hours to + do it; and I found that this was a very fair average time. A single + horseman will, of course, do it in a very much shorter time, + because there are miles together where a horse might gallop without + danger. I remained at Koomaylo until the afternoon, as it was too + hot to start till the sun was low. Nothing happened during the day, + except the arrival of the Beloochees and Bombay Engineers. The + soldiers had two or <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page66">[pg + 66]</span><a name="Pg066" id="Pg066" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>three more chases after the monkeys, of which + there are extra ordinary numbers. I need hardly say that they did + not catch any of them: a dog, however, belonging to one of the + soldiers seized one for a moment, but was attacked with such fury + by his companions that it had to leave its hold and beat a + precipitate retreat. I have just been watching a flock or herd—I do + not know which is the correct term—of these animals, two or three + hundred in number, who have passed along the rocks behind my tent, + at perhaps thirty yards’ distance. They have not the slightest fear + of man, and even all the noise and bustle of a camp seem to amuse + rather than alarm them. They are of all sizes, from the full-grown, + which are as large as a large dog, down to tiny things which keep + close to their mothers, and cling round their necks at the least + alarm. The old ones make no noise, but step deliberately from rock + to rock, sitting down frequently to inspect the camp, and indulge + in the pleasure of a slight scratch. These full-sized fellows have + extremely long hair over the head and upper part of the body, but + are bare, disagreeably so, towards the caudal extremity. The small + ones scamper along, chattering and screaming; they have no mane or + long hair on the head. The old monkeys, when they do make a sound, + bark just like a large dog. In the afternoon an enormous number of + locusts came down the pass, and afforded amusement and diet to + flocks of birds, who were, I observed, rather epicures in their + way, for on picking up many of the dead bodies of the locusts, I + found that in every case it was only the head and upper part of the + thorax which had been eaten. I shall accept this as a hint; and in + case of the starvation days with which this expedition is + threatened—in addition to innumerable other evils—really coming on, + I shall, when we <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page67">[pg + 67]</span><a name="Pg067" id="Pg067" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>are + driven to feed on locusts, eat only the parts which the birds have + pointed out to me as the tit-bits. I am happy to say that there is + no probability of our being driven to that resource at present; for + on our way here yesterday I passed considerable quantities of + native cattle, and any quantity is procurable here, and as for + goats they are innumerable. We bought one this morning for our + servants for the sum of a rupee. The commissariat have made up + their minds that all servants and followers must be Hindoos, and + therefore abstainers from meat, and so issue no meat whatever in + their rations—nothing, indeed, except rice, grain, a little flour, + and a little ghee. Now, the fact is that the followers are + generally not Hindoos. Many of the body-servants are Portuguese, + Goa men; and the horse-keepers are frequently Mussulmans, or come + from the north-west provinces, where they are not particular. Even + the mule-drivers are Arabs, Egyptians, and Patans, all of whom eat + flesh. It thus happens that the whole of our five servants are + meat-eaters, and it is fortunate that we are able to buy meat from + the natives for them, especially as they have really hard work to + do; and in the cold climate we shall enter in another day or two + meat is doubly necessary.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had intended + to start at three o’clock, but it was four before our baggage was + fairly disposed upon the backs of the four baggage-animals—two + strong mules and two ponies—and we were in the saddles of our + riding-horses. Our route, after leaving the wells, ran, with of + course various turnings and windings, in a south-westerly + direction. The way lay along the bottom of the valley, a road being + marked out by the loose stones being removed to a certain extent, + and laid along both sides of the track. The valley for the first + seven <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page68">[pg 68]</span><a name= + "Pg068" id="Pg068" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>or eight miles was + very regular, of a width of from 200 to 300 yards. Its bottom, + though really rising gradually, appeared to the eye a perfect flat + of sand, scattered with boulders and stones, and covered with the + thorny jungle I have spoken of in a previous letter. This scrub had + been cleared away along the line of road, or there would have been + very little flesh, to say nothing of clothes, left upon our bones + by the time we came to our journey’s end. Backward and forward, + across the sandy plain, as the spurs of the hills turned its + course, wound the bed of the torrent—I should think that we crossed + it fifty times. It is probable that on occasions of great floods + the whole valley is under water. To our left the hills, though + rocky and steep, sloped somewhat gradually, and were everywhere + sprinkled with bushes. On the right the mountain was much more + lofty, and rose in many places very precipitously. Sometimes the + valley widened somewhat, at other times the mountains closed in, + and we seemed to have arrived at the end of our journey, until on + rounding some projecting spur the valley would appear stretching + away at its accustomed width. Altogether, the scenery reminded me + very much of the Tyrol, except that the hills at our side were not + equal in height to those which generally border the valleys + there.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At half-past six + it had become so dark that we could no longer follow the track, and + the animals were continually stumbling over the loose stones, and + we were obliged to halt for half-an-hour, by which time the moon + had risen over the plain; and although it was some time longer + before she was high enough to look down over the hill-tops into our + valley, yet there was quite light enough for us to pursue our way. + In another three-quarters of an hour we came upon a sight + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page69">[pg 69]</span><a name="Pg069" + id="Pg069" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>which has not greeted my eyes + since I left England, excepting, of course, in my journey through + France—it was running water. We all knelt down and had a drink, + but, curiously enough, although our animals had been travelling for + nearly four hours enveloped in a cloud of light dust, they one and + all refused to drink; indeed, I question if they had ever seen + running water before, and had an idea it was something uncanny. + This place we knew was Lower Sooro, not that there was any + village—indeed, I begin to question the existence of villages in + this part of the world, for I have not yet seen a single native + permanent hut, only bowers constructed of the boughs of trees and + bushes. But in Abyssinia it is not villages which bear names; it is + wells. Zulla, and Koomaylo, the Upper and Lower Sooro, are not + villages, but wells. Natives come and go, and build their bowers, + but they do not live there. I fancy that when there is a native + name, and no well, it is a graveyard which gives the name. We + passed two or three of these between Koomaylo and Sooro, all + similar to those I have already described. From Lower to Upper + Sooro is a distance of four miles. It is in this portion of the + road that the real difficulties of the pass are situated, and I + never passed through a succession of such narrow and precipitous + gorges as it contains. The sides of these gorges are in many places + perfectly perpendicular, and the scenery, although not very lofty, + is yet wild and grand in the extreme, and seen, as we saw it, with + the bright light and deep shadows thrown by the full moon, it was + one of the most impressive pieces of scenery I ever saw. The + difficulty of the pass consists not in its steepness, for the rise + is little over three hundred feet in a mile, but in the mass of + huge boulders which strew its bottom. Throughout its length, + indeed, the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page70">[pg + 70]</span><a name="Pg070" id="Pg070" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>path winds its way in and out and over a chaos + of immense stones, which look as if they had but just fallen from + the almost overhanging sides of the ravine. Some of these masses + are as large as a good-sized house, with barely room between them + for a mule to pass with his burden. In many places, indeed, there + was not room at all until the Bombay Sappers, who are encamped + about half-way up the pass, set to work to make it practicable by + blasting away projecting edges, and in some slight way smoothing + the path among the smaller rocks. In some places great dams have + been formed right across the ravine, owing to two or three monster + boulders having blocked the course of the stream, and from the + accumulated rocks which the winter torrents have swept down upon + them. Upon these great obstacles nothing less than an army of + sappers could make any impression, and here the engineers have + contented themselves by building a road up to the top of the dam + and down again the other side. We were three hours making this + four-mile passage, and the labour, the shouting, and the + difficulties of the way, must be imagined. Of course we had + dismounted, and had given our horses to their grooms to lead. + Constantly the baggage was shifting, and required a pause and a + readjustment. Now our tin pails would bang with a clash against a + rock one side; now our case of brandy—taken for purely medicinal + purposes—would bump against a projection on the other. Now one of + the ponies would stumble, and the other nearly come upon him; now + one of the mules, in quickening his pace to charge a steep ascent, + would nearly pull the one which was following, and attached to him, + off his feet; then there would be a fresh alarm that the ponies’ + baggage was coming off. All this was repeated over and over again. + There were shouts in English, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page71">[pg 71]</span><a name="Pg071" id="Pg071" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Hindostanee, Arabic, and in other and unknown + tongues. Altogether it was the most fatiguing four miles I have + ever passed, and we were all regularly done when we got to the top. + I should say that the water had all this time tossed and fretted + between the rocks, sometimes hidden beneath them for a hundred + yards, then crossing and recrossing our path, or running directly + under our feet, until we were within a few hundred yards of Upper + Sooro, when the ravine widening out, and the bottom being sandy, + the stream no longer runs above the surface. Altogether it was a + ride to be long remembered, through that lonely valley by moonlight + in an utterly unknown and somewhat hostile country, as several + attempts at robbery have been made by the natives lately upon small + parties; and although in no case have they attacked a European, yet + everyone rides with his loaded revolver in his holster. A deep + silence seemed to hang over everything, broken only by our own + voices, except by the occasional thrill of a cicada among the + bushes, the call of a night-bird, or by the whining of a jackal, or + the hoarse bark of a monkey on the hills above.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was just + eleven o’clock when we arrived at Upper Sooro. An officer at once + came to the door of his tent, and with that hospitality which is + universal, asked us to come in and sit while our tent was being + pitched. We accepted, and he opened for us a bottle of beer, cool, + and in excellent condition. Imagine our feelings. Brandy-and-water + would have been true hospitality, but beer, where beer is so scarce + and so precious as it is here, was a deed which deserves to be + recorded in letters of gold. I forbear to name our benefactor. The + Samaritan’s name has not descended to us; the widow who bestowed + the mite is nameless. Let it be so in the pre<span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page72">[pg 72]</span><a name="Pg072" id="Pg072" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>sent case. But I shall never cease to + think of that bottle of beer with gratitude.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My tent was now + pitched; my servant procured some hot water and made some tea; and + having taken that and some biscuit, and having seen that the horses + were fed, I slightly undressed, lay down upon my <span class= + "tei tei-sic">water-proof</span> sheet, and lighted a final cigar, + when to my horror I observed many creeping things advancing over + the sheet towards me. Upon examination they turned out to be of two + species—the one a large red ant, the other a sort of tick, which I + found on inquiring in the morning are camel-ticks. They are a lead + colour, and about the size of sheep-ticks, but they do not run so + fast. This was, indeed, a calamity, but there was nothing to be + done. I was far too tired to get up and have my tent pitched in + another place; besides, another place might have been just as bad. + I therefore wrapped myself as tightly as I could in my rug, in + hopes that they would not find their way in, and so went to sleep. + In the morning I rejoiced greatly to find that I had not been + bitten; for they bite horses and men, raising a bump as big as a + man’s fist upon the former, and causing great pain and swelling to + the latter.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I describe thus + minutely the events of every day, because the life of most officers + and men greatly resembles my own, and by relating my own experience + I give a far more accurate idea of the sort of life we are leading + in Abyssinia than I could do by any general statements.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Upper Sooro is a + large commissariat dépôt, exceedingly well managed by Conductor + Crow. It is a new basin of five hundred yards long by two hundred + across, a widening out of the pass. It is selected for that reason, + as it is the only place along the line near water where a regiment + could en<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page73">[pg 73]</span><a name= + "Pg073" id="Pg073" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>camp. Owing to its + elevation above the sea the temperature is very pleasant, except + for two or three hours in the middle of the day. Another agreeable + change is that the thorny bushes have disappeared, and a tree + without prickles, and which attains a considerable size, has taken + their place.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At seven o’clock + this morning the Beloochees began to arrive, having started at + midnight. The advanced guard were therefore exactly the same time + doing the distance that we were. Their baggage, however, has been + dropping in all day, for it was loaded on camels, and most of these + animals stuck fast in the narrow passages of the pass, and had to + be unloaded to enable them to get through; and this happened again + and again. The pass, in fact, is not, as yet, practicable for + camels; mules can manage it, but it is a very close fit for them, + and it will be some time yet before camels can pass with their + burdens. I suppose after to-day’s experience camels will not be + again employed this side of Koomaylo until the pass has been + widened. Some of the poor animals were stuck fast for a couple of + hours before they could be extricated. There are now a hundred of + them lying down within fifty yards of my tent. I consider the camel + to be the most ridiculously-overpraised animal under the sun. I do + not deny that he has his virtues. He is moderately strong—not very + strong for his size, for he will not carry so much as a couple of + good mules; still he is fairly strong, and he can go a long time + without water—a very useful quality in the desert, or on the + sea-shore of Abyssinia. But patient! Heaven save the mark! He is + without exception the most cantankerous animal under the sun. When + he is wanted to stand up, he lies down; when he is wanted to lie + down, he will not do it on any consideration; and once down he + jumps up again the moment his driver’s <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page74">[pg 74]</span><a name="Pg074" id="Pg074" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>back is turned. He grumbles, and growls, and + roars at any order he receives, whether to stand up or lie down; + whether to be loaded or to have his packs taken off. When he is + once loaded and in motion he goes on quietly enough; but so does a + horse, or a donkey, or any other animal. After having made himself + as disagreeable as possible, there is small praise to him that he + goes on when he cannot help it. I consider the mule, which people + have most wrongfully named obstinate, to be a superior animal in + every respect—except that he wants his drink—to the much-bepraised + camel.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A messenger + passed through here yesterday from Abyssinia. He was bringing + letters from Mr. Rassam to Colonel Merewether. He reports that + Theodore is continuing his cruelties, and killing his soldiers in + numbers. Under these circumstances one can hardly feel surprised at + the news that, in spite of his efforts, he is unable to increase + his army beyond seven or eight thousand men. He is still at Debra + Tabor.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc20" id="toc20"></a> <a name="pdf21" id="pdf21"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Camp, Senafe, December 16th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I arrived here + only half-an-hour since, and find that the post is on the point of + starting. I therefore have only time to write a few lines to + supplement my last letter, which was sent from Sooro. All + description of the pass between that resting-place and Senafe I + must postpone to my next letter, and only write to say that there + is no particular news here. The messenger from Mr. Rassam arrived + in the camp yesterday. He states that the King of Shoa’s men are + between Theodore and Magdala, and that there is every hope that + they will take the latter place, and liberate the prisoners. The + reports about the King of Tigré are, to a certain extent, founded + on fact. He <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page75">[pg + 75]</span><a name="Pg075" id="Pg075" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>has + professed the greatest friendship, but there are sinister reports + that he really means mischief, and for two or three days the + pickets have been doubled. It is not thought that there is any + foundation for the report of his intention to attack us. The + situation of this camp is very pleasant—upon a lofty table-land, + seven thousand feet above the sea, and with a delightfully bracing + wind blowing over it, and reminding one of Brighton Downs in the + month of May. At night I am told that the thermometer goes down + below freezing-point. The camp is situated in a slight hollow or + valley in the plain; through its centre flows a stream, which when + the camp was first formed was knee-deep, but has greatly fallen off + since, so much so that reservoirs are being formed and wells sunk + in case the supply should cease. Short as the time is before the + post goes, I might have sent you more intelligence were it not that + Colonels Merewether and Phayre are both absent upon some expedition + in the surrounding country, and I am therefore unable to draw any + news from any official source. The health of everyone up here is + excellent, and the horses are suffering less from the disease which + has almost decimated them in the lower ground. There are plenty of + cattle brought in for sale, but unfortunately the authorities have + no money to buy them with.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc22" id="toc22"></a> <a name="pdf23" id="pdf23"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Senafe, December 19th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I wrote a few + lines, upon my arrival here two days ago; but as the post was upon + the point of starting, I could not do more than state that the + rumours which had reached us down below respecting the King of + Tigré were untrue, and that that monarch was at present pursuing a + course of masterly inactivity. I will now, therefore, resume my + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page76">[pg 76]</span><a name="Pg076" + id="Pg076" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>letter at the point where my + last regular communication ended—namely, at the station of Sooro, + in the pass leading to this place. I do not apologise for making my + description of this pass very detailed, for at present the whole + interest of the expedition centres in the passage of the troops and + baggage from Zulla to this point, and I feel sure that any + particulars which may enable the public to picture to themselves + the country through which our soldiers are marching will be read + with keen interest. From Sooro to Rayray Guddy, the next regular + station, is, according to the official report, twenty-eight miles; + but I am convinced, and in this opinion I am borne out by every + officer I have spoken to, that thirty-three would be much nearer + the fact. Indeed, in every march up here the official distances are + a good deal under the truth. But, indeed, the officers of the + exploring force appear to have seen everything through + rose-coloured spectacles. At Zulla they reported plenty of water, + and they found, a short way further, an abundance of forage, which + no one else has been able to discover before or since. It was on + the strength of these reports of forage and water that the + baggage-animals were hurried forward. I am not blaming the officers + who made the reports. They simply acted as it is the nature of + explorers to act. Every father thinks his own child a prodigy. + Every discoverer believes that the country, or river, or lake which + he has been the first to report on, is a country, river, or lake + such as no man ever saw before. Over and over again this has + happened, and disastrous consequences have ere now arisen from the + persistent use by explorers of these rose-coloured spectacles. It + is not more than four or five years—to give one example out of a + thousand—since Dr. Livingstone reported that he had discovered a + magnificent navigable <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page77">[pg + 77]</span><a name="Pg077" id="Pg077" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>river in Eastern Africa, with rice, cotton, + and corn abounding upon its banks, and a climate beyond reproach. + In consequence of this report the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Universities Mission”</span> was organised, and a band + of missionaries, headed by their bishop, Mackenzie, started. After + months of struggle they arrived at the place of disembarkation, + having already discovered that their noble stream was, at a good + average time of year, about three feet deep. There they set up + their mission; there, one by one, these noble fellows died of want + and of fever, victims of an explorer’s rose-coloured spectacles. + After that we must not grudge the few hundred mules that have + fallen a sacrifice to the want of springs and forage which could be + seen only through the glasses of the chiefs of the exploring + party.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From Sooro to + Rayray Guddy is too far a march to be made in one day along such a + road as there is at present, and accordingly it is generally broken + at a spot called Guinea-fowl Plain, where there is a well yielding + a small supply of water, the colour of pea-soup. We had had quite + sufficient of night-marching previously, and, having passed one day + at Sooro, we started at ten o’clock the following morning. We had + intended to have started an hour earlier; but making a start here + is a very different thing from sending for a cab at an appointed + time to catch a train. In the first place there are the trunks, + which have been opened the night before, to close; there is the + tent to strike and pack up. Then at the last moment you discover + that your servants have not washed up the breakfast-things, and + that your mule-wallah has not yet taken his animals to water. At + last, when all is ready, comes the important operation of loading + the four baggage-animals. Each load has to be adjusted with the + nicest precision, or the very first piece of rough ground you + arrive at, round goes the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page78">[pg + 78]</span><a name="Pg078" id="Pg078" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>saddle, and your belongings come to the ground + with a crash. With our two mules we have the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Otago saddle,”</span> which is excellent. Indeed, in + the opinion of almost everyone here, it is by far the best of the + rival saddles. Upon these saddles we pack our own baggage, and once + fairly adjusted this is pretty safe for the day. Not so the other + animals, for which we have common mule-saddles. Upon these is piled + a multifarious collection of bundles. Our servants’ five kits, our + animals’ rugs and ropes, our tents, two sacks containing + cooking-utensils and numerous etceteras, and a water-skin for use + upon the road. The actual weight that these animals have to carry + is not so great as that borne by the others; but the trouble of + adjusting and fastening on is at least ten times as great. The + loads have frequently to be taken off three or four times, and then + when we think all is right, and get fairly into motion, we have not + gone twenty yards before there is a gradual descending motion + observed on one side of an animal, and a corresponding rise of the + opposite burden, and we are obliged to stop and readjust + everything, or in another minute or two the whole would have + toppled over. These things ruffle the temper somewhat, and our + equanimity is not improved by the intense stupidity which our + native servants always manifest upon these occasions. They seem to + have no eye. They heap bundles on the side which was before + palpably the heaviest; they twist cords where cords can be of no + earthly use: altogether they are horribly aggravating. However, by + this time I am getting accustomed to these things, and take matters + into my own hands, and insist on things being done exactly as I + direct them. At ten o’clock, then, we were fairly off, and I do not + know that I ever rode through a more monotonous valley than that + between Sooro <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page79">[pg + 79]</span><a name="Pg079" id="Pg079" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and + Guinea-fowl Plain. It was the counterpart of that I described in my + last letter as extending between Koomaylo and Lower Sooro. A dead + flat of two or three hundred yards across, with the torrent’s bed + winding across it, and spur after spur of mountain turning it every + quarter of a mile. Some of the mountain views which we saw up the + ravines were certainly very fine, but it became monotonous in the + extreme after six hours’ march at the rate of little over two miles + an hour. The vegetation, however, had changed since the preceding + day. The thorny bush no longer covered everything, but a variety of + shrubs now bordered the path, and the diversity of their foliage + was a relief to the eye. Immense quantities of locusts were + everywhere met with, making the ground yellow where they lay, and + rising with a rustling noise, which was very discomposing to the + horses at our approach. They did not eat all the shrubs, but the + species upon which they fed were absolutely covered with them, and + most of their favourite plants were stripped completely bare. + Monkeys, or rather baboons, still abounded: we saw numerous large + troops of them, which must have been over a hundred strong. It was + about five o’clock when we reached Guinea-fowl Plain, which may + have guinea-fowls, although we saw none; but which is most + certainly not a plain, for at the place where the well is the + valley is narrower than it had been for miles previously. Here we + found some really large trees, and under them we pitched our tent. + It was not long before our servants had fires lighted and dinner in + a forward state. There were two or three other parties who had + arrived before us, and, as it got dusk, all lighted fires; and, as + each party, with their cooking and grooms’ fires, had at least + three bonfires going, it made quite a pictur<span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page80">[pg 80]</span><a name="Pg080" id="Pg080" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>esque scene. The night was raw and cold, + and we had a few drops of rain. It was fortunate that we had + brought water with us for cooking purposes, for the water in the + well was perfectly undrinkable.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The next morning + we were again off early for our longest journey, that on to Rayray + Guddy, where food would be procurable for horse and man, neither + one nor the other being obtainable at Guinea-fowl Plain, where + there is no commissariat station. We had carried our own food, and + a small portion of grain for the horses; but they would have fared + very badly had we not met some natives in the pass with a bundle of + hay, and done a little barter with them for rice. The valley for + the first twelve or fourteen miles from Guinea-fowl Plain greatly + resembled in its general features that we had passed the day + previously, but the vegetation became more varied and interesting + every mile. We now had great trees of ivy, we had the evergreen + oak, and occasionally gigantic tulip-trees. We had great numbers of + a tree, or rather large shrub, of the name of which I am ignorant; + its leaves more resembled the sprays of the asparagus when it has + run far to seed than any other foliage I know, but the growth of + the shrub was more like a yew. Upon its branches were vast + quantities of a parasite resembling the mistletoe, whose dark-green + leaves afforded a fine contrast to the rather bluish tint of the + tree. Climbing everywhere over the trees, and sometimes almost + hiding them, were creepers of various kinds; on the ground grew + vast quantities of the aloe. There were, too, numerous cacti of + various kinds, some thick and bulky, others no thicker than a + lady’s little finger, and growing like a creeper over the trees. + But, strangest of all, upon the hill-sides grew an immense plant, + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page81">[pg 81]</span><a name="Pg081" + id="Pg081" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>or rather tree, of the cactus + tribe, which I had never seen before. It started by a straight stem + fifteen or twenty feet high, and thicker than a man’s body. This + branched out into a great number of arms, which all grew upwards, + and to just the same height, giving it a strange and formal + appearance, exactly resembling a gigantic cauliflower. I believe + its name is <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Euphorbia candalabriensis</span></span>, but + do not at all vouch for this. Some of the mountain slopes were + quite covered with this strange tree, but as a general thing it + grew singly or in pairs. The tulip-trees were superb; they grew + generally in rocky places, and with their huge twisted trunks, and + glossy green leaves, and limbs more than a hundred feet long, they + were studies for a painter.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At about three + miles from Rayray Guddy the valley narrowed to a ravine, and we + came upon running water. The pass from here to the station is steep + and difficult, but nothing to that at Sooro. Having drawn our + rations, and received the unwelcome intelligence that there was no + hay, and only the scantiest possible amount of grain for our + animals, we established our camp and went up to look at the land + transport division, about a quarter of a mile higher up the valley. + There were four or five hundred mules and ponies here, in good + order, but hardly good condition; in fact, the work has been hard + and forage scant. How hard the work has been, our journey of the + two preceding days had testified. All along the line of march we + had come across the carcasses of dead animals, from which great + vultures rose lazily at our approach. As we approached Rayray Guddy + the remains of the victims occurred much more frequently, and the + air was everywhere impregnated with the fœtid odour. This was only + to be expected, as the poor animals had been obliged to + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page82">[pg 82]</span><a name="Pg082" + id="Pg082" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>endeavour to accomplish the + march of thirty miles from Sooro without food, and in most cases + without water. No time should be lost in forming a small + commissariat dépôt at Guinea-fowl Plain, where a ration of hay and + grain could be served out to the animals as they pass through. The + work these baggage-animals have to go through is extremely severe, + and their half-starved appearance testifies that they have not + sufficient food served out to them, and to expect them to do two + days’ work on their one day’s scanty rations is a little too much + even from mules. We found our friends who had started before us + from Guinea-fowl Plain encamped up there with Captain Mortimer of + the transport train. It was proposed that we should throw in our + mess with them. We accordingly returned to our own encampment, took + our meat and rum, our plates and knives and forks, and marched back + again. In an hour dinner was ready, and in the mean time I was glad + of an opportunity of inquiring how this advanced division of the + transport train had got on. I found that they had, like the one + down at Zulla, had the greatest trouble with their drivers. The + officer complained bitterly of the class of men who had been sent + out—Greeks, Italians, Frenchmen, Spaniards, the mere sweepings of + Alexandria, Cairo, Beyrout, and Smyrna. The Hindoo drivers, he + said, upon the whole, worked steadily, and were more reliable than + the others, but were greatly wanting in physical strength. The + Persians, on the contrary, were very strong and powerful men, and + could load three mules while a Hindoo could load one; but they had + at first given very great trouble, had mutinied and threatened to + desert in a body, but, upon the application of the lash to two or + three of the ringleaders, things had gone on more smoothly. The + Arab drivers had <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page83">[pg + 83]</span><a name="Pg083" id="Pg083" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>almost all deserted. Even up here the mules + still suffer from the disease which prevailed down upon the plain, + and which carried off a hundred horses of the 3d Native Cavalry. It + is very sudden in its action, and is in nearly every case fatal. + The animals seem seized with some internal pain, arch their backs, + and become rigid. In a short time the tongue grows black, a + discharge takes place from the nostrils, and in a few hours, + sometimes not more than one, from the time he is attacked, the + animal is dead. At present, as with our cattle-disease, all + remedies are ineffectual. Animals in good condition are more liable + to be attacked than are the poorer ones. After dinner we returned + to our tent, where, however, we did not pass a remarkably-pleasant + night. In the first place, it was bitterly cold—the temperature of + Rayray Guddy is indeed colder than it is here; and in the second, a + mule had broken loose from its head-ropes, and came down to our + encampment. Five or six times it nearly upset our tent by tumbling + over the tent-ropes, in addition to which it made our horses so + savage by going up among them, that we were afraid of their + breaking loose. Four or five times, therefore, did we have to get + up and go out in the cold to drive the beast away with stones. The + grooms were sleeping at their horses’ heads, but were so wrapped up + in their rugs that they heard nothing of it. The next morning it + was so cold that we were really glad to be up and moving, and were + on our way at a little before eight. The first six miles of the + road is narrow and winding, and is as lovely a road as I ever + passed. With the exception only of the narrow pathway, the gorge + was one mass of foliage. In addition to all the plants I have + mentioned as occurring below, we had now the wild fig, the + laburnum, various sorts of acacia, and many others, <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page84">[pg 84]</span><a name="Pg084" id="Pg084" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>One plant in particular, I believe a + species of acacia, was in seed; the seed-pods were a reddish-brown, + but were very thin and transparent, and when the sun shone upon + them were of the colour of the clearest carmine. As these shrubs + were in great abundance, and completely covered with seed-pods, + their appearance was very brilliant. Among all these plants + fluttered numerous humming-birds of the most lovely colours. Other + birds of larger size and gorgeous plumage perched among the trees + at a short distance from the path. Brilliant butterflies flitted + here and there among the flowers.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At last we came + to an end of this charming ride, and prepared for a work of a very + different nature. We turned from the ravine which we had now + followed for sixty miles, and prepared boldly to ascend the + hill-side. As soon as we left the ravine all the semi-tropical + vegetation was at an end; we were climbing a steep hill covered + with boulders, between which stunted pines thrust their gnarled + branches and dark foliage. We had gone at one leap from a tropical + ravine to a highland mountain-side. The ascent was, I should say, + at the least a thousand feet, and a worse thousand-feet climb I + never had before and never wish to have again. It is a mere track + which zigzags up among the rocks and trees, and which was made by + the 10th Native Infantry and the Sappers, as the pioneer force + rested below and had breakfast. The men effected marvels + considering that it was the work of two hours only; but it is at + best a mere track. Sometimes the mules mount a place as steep as a + flight of stairs; then they have to step over a rock three feet + high. In fact, it is one long struggle up to the top, and in no + place wide enough for two mules to pass. One <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page85">[pg 85]</span><a name="Pg085" id="Pg085" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>mule falling puts a stop to a whole + train, and this was exemplified in our case, for we were following + a long line of mules when they suddenly came to a stop. For + half-an-hour we waited patiently, and then, climbing up the rocks + and through the trees at the side of the stationary mules, we + finally came to the cause of detention—one of the mules had fallen. + The drivers had taken no efforts to remove his pack or his saddle, + but were sitting by his side quietly smoking their pipes. After a + little strong language we took off his saddle, got things right, + and the train proceeded again. This is the great want of the + transport corps—a strong body of inspectors, as they are called, + volunteers from European regiments. There ought to be one of these + to every ten or fifteen drivers, who, as in the present case, if + not looked after by a European, will shirk work in every possible + way. But this is a subject upon which I shall have much more to say + at a future time. This road or path is really not practicable for + the passage of mules, for, although singly they can go up well + enough, if one party going up were to meet another going down, it + is probable that, if no European came up to make one party or other + retrace their steps, they would remain there until the last animal + died of starvation. Three companies of the Beloochee regiment + arrived yesterday at the bottom of the hill, and have set to work + to widen and improve it; and as a party of sappers and miners have + begun to work downwards from the top, the road will soon be made + passable. For this hill-side is not like the pass of Sooro, which + would require an incredible amount of labour to render it a decent + road. There are no natural obstacles here beyond trees to be cut + down and stones to be rolled away; so that by the time the main + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page86">[pg 86]</span><a name="Pg086" + id="Pg086" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>body of the army arrives I + have no doubt that they will find a fair road up to the + plateau.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc24" id="toc24"></a> <a name="pdf25" id="pdf25"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Senafe, December 20th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I closed my + letter in great haste yesterday afternoon, for the authorities + suddenly arrived at the conclusion that it was the last day for the + English mail. I was obliged to break off abruptly in my description + of the road, being at the point where we had just arrived upon the + plateau. Looking backwards, we could see peak after peak extending + behind us, which when we had been winding among their bases had + looked so high above us, but which now were little above the level + of the spot where we were standing. A few of the peaks around us + might have been a thousand or fifteen hundred feet higher than the + plateau, and we were standing nearly on the summit of that high + range of hills we had seen from the sea. We are now seven thousand + four hundred feet above Zulla, and by my description of the pass it + will be seen that it is no child’s-play to attain this height. It + is not that the ascent is so steep; on the contrary, taking the + distance at seventy miles, the rise is only one in a hundred, an + easy gradient for a railway; but more than half the rise takes + place in three short steep ascents, namely, the Sooro pass, a rise + of one thousand five hundred feet in four miles; the Rayray Guddy + pass, a rise of one thousand feet in three miles; and the last + climb on to the plateau, a rise of one thousand five hundred feet + in two miles. Thus four thousand feet, or more than half the rise, + takes place in nine miles, and over the remaining distance the rise + is only one foot in every two hundred. The <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page87">[pg 87]</span><a name="Pg087" id="Pg087" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>difficulties of the journey are the general + roughness of the road, the long distances the animals have to go + without water, and the ascent of the Sooro pass, for there is no + doubt that the final rise to the plateau will soon be made a good + road by the exertions of the Beloochees and Sappers. Turning our + horses’ heads we proceeded onward. The change to an open plain and + a fresh wind in place of the long valley and oppressive stillness + was charming. One would have thought oneself on the top of a Welsh + hill. The ground was a black peaty soil, with a short dried-up + grass. Here and there were small patches of cultivated ground, and + clumps of rock cropped up everywhere. Looking forward, we could see + that the general character of the ground was that of a plain; but + enormous masses of rock, of seven or eight hundred feet in height, + rose perpendicularly in fantastic shapes sheer up from the plain. + Here and there were ranges of mountains, some of considerable + altitude. Far in the distance we could see hills rising between + hills, but never attaining any great height. Everywhere over the + plain were little groups of cattle and sheep grazing. We were + evidently in a thickly-populated country.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">After about two + miles’ ride we turned the corner of a slight rise, and there before + us lay the camp. It is prettily situated on the side of a little + valley, and faces the north. The 10th Native Infantry are encamped + on the right wing; the Mountain Train occupy the centre; and the 3d + Cavalry camp lies on the left. Behind the rise a plain stretches + away, and upon this the troops will be encamped as they arrive. The + soil of the valley-side and of the plain beyond is a mere sand, + covered with grass and bushes, but in the hollow of the valley, + where the stream <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page88">[pg + 88]</span><a name="Pg088" id="Pg088" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>runs, or rather used to run, it is a deep + black peat. Wells are now being sunk in this peat, and these + rapidly fill with water. There are still deep pools where the + stream formerly ran, and dams have been formed, which will keep + back a considerable supply of water. The troops are not, therefore, + likely to fall short for some time, and if they should, there is + plenty at a stream two or three miles farther on. The health of the + troops is pretty good, but both officers and men are subject to + slight attacks of fever, much more so than they were when encamped + on the plain by the sea. This is singular, for except that the + nights are rather cold, this feels the very perfection of climate. + The horses and mules are doing much better up here, and although + some died at first, it is probable that they had brought the seeds + of the disease with them from the pass below. As it is, the cavalry + have suffered terribly. The 5th Cavalry, out of five hundred + horses, have lost one hundred and seventy, and the officers’ horses + of the infantry and Mountain Train have been nearly + exterminated.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Things are very + tranquil here. The King of Tigré, after first being friendly, and + then blustering a little, has just at present, influenced probably + by the reports of the increasing force of the expedition, + determined upon the prudent policy of friendship, at any rate until + he sees a better opportunity of plunder than he does at present. + Yesterday afternoon an ambassador arrived from him, saying + magnanimously, <span class="tei tei-q">“Why should we not be + friends? My foes are your foes; my interests your interests. Take + therefore my forage, and my blessing.”</span> Colonel Merewether is + greatly delighted at this message, and sees, through those + rose-coloured spectacles of his, an early end to the expedition. + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page89">[pg 89]</span><a name="Pg089" + id="Pg089" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Everyone else is perfectly + indifferent. The King of Tigré’s army of 7000 men could be + scattered like chaff by a battalion of Europeans; and if he ever + sees a chance of falling upon our rear, it is more than probable + that his friendly professions will go for nothing. I do not think + that the smallest reliance can be placed in the friendship of these + semi-savage chiefs.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We gave his + ambassador a lesson this morning, which will, I have no doubt, have + its effect. It was a brigade field-day, and Colonel Merewether took + the ambassador out to witness it. It is a great pity that the + artillery and the infantry had not a few rounds of blank cartridge, + which would have given his ambassadorship a much more lively idea + of what the real thing would be like, and would have given him such + a tale to bear to his king and master as would have opened his + Majesty’s eyes to what the consequences of a war with us would + probably be. But even as it was, it no doubt had a very salutary + effect. The enemy were supposed to be holding a steep rise at the + mouth of a long valley. The infantry threw forward skirmishers, and + the mountain guns took up a position upon a neighbouring hill, and + were supposed to open a heavy fire. Presently the infantry advanced + in line, and made a rush up the steep rise. As they reached the top + they lowered bayonets to the charge, and with a loud cheer rushed + upon the defenders. An instant afterwards the word <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Charge!”</span> was given to cavalry, and away they + went down the valley, sweeping the enemy’s supports and the + fugitives from the hill before them for half a mile, and then + scattering in pursuit. It was very well done, and, as I have said, + no doubt had its effect, especially when the ambassador was made to + understand that <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page90">[pg + 90]</span><a name="Pg090" id="Pg090" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the + force he saw before him was only one-tenth of our advancing army. + The movements of the troops were fairly performed, and did great + credit to their respective commanding-officers. Their remaining + horses are in excellent condition, and are very strong serviceable + animals. Their uniform is a very effective one, light-blue and + silver, with white covers to their forage caps. The infantry, whose + uniform is precisely similar to our own, also wear white + cap-covers. Going out to the parade-ground, which is about two + miles distant from here, we passed several native villages, and a + great number of them can be seen scattered all over the plains. The + country, indeed, is very thickly populated; very much more so than + a rural district in England of the same extent. The people possess + goats, sheep, and cattle in abundance, together with ponies, + donkeys, and mules. They are ready to sell all these animals to us, + but demand very high prices, which has been to a certain extent + encouraged by the prices Colonel Merewether has ordered to be paid + at the bazaar for them. Thus, he has fixed the price of a goat at a + dollar and a half, that is six and ninepence, whereas I paid down + in the pass only two shillings for a goat, and could have bought + any number at that price. It is probable, too, that the current + price for goats, or indeed for any animals, is considerably less + here than in the valley, for there forage is extremely scarce, and + must be sought at long distances; whereas here it is abundant, the + plains being covered with it. Of course, this price having been + once fixed, the natives will not take less, that is, in specie. + They would take a shilling’s worth of rice for a goat; but of + course we have no rice to give them. It may make but little + difference to Colonel Merewether <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page91">[pg 91]</span><a name="Pg091" id="Pg091" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>whether he pays seven shillings or two + shillings for a goat; but the subalterns naturally grumble at + having to pay three times the real value for their food. Not, + indeed, that the officers here have to buy much, for their guns + supplement their rations to a very considerable extent. + Guinea-fowls, partridges, ducks, and geese abound, and a large + number are daily shot by the sportsmen of the camp. The ration + allowance of one pound of meat, including bone, a pound of biscuit, + two ounces of preserved vegetables, and a quarter of a pound of + rice, is quite insufficient for one’s wants in a bracing atmosphere + like this. The meat issued contains an enormous proportion of bone, + so that there is little if at all more than half a pound of clear + meat in a ration. I am sure that I consume at least three times my + daily allowance of meat.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The natives + completely swarm about our camp. The men do not do much, but loiter + about with their swords and spears, and shields made of + elephant-hide. These spears are really formidable weapons. They are + from six to ten feet long, and weighted at both ends, and the + natives are able to throw them with great force and considerable + accuracy for a distance of over thirty yards. These would be ugly + weapons in a hand-to-hand fight in a bush, but as it is, against a + disciplined force armed with firearms, they are simply absurd, and + I have seen no offensive weapons—such as bows or arrows—which could + be used with effect against us during the passage of a defile, in + their possession, since my arrival in the country. The women appear + to do all the work. They come into the camp in hundreds laden with + firewood, and keep up a perpetual cry of <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Lockaree, lockaree!”</span>—which is the Hindoostanee + for wood, they having <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page92">[pg + 92]</span><a name="Pg092" id="Pg092" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>picked up that word,—and <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Parnè!”</span> water. Even the children bring their + bundles of wood. The women are not nearly so pretty as some of them + I saw down the pass, nor are they so neatly clad. They are dressed + in cotton and leather; but neither are these so tastefully + arranged, or so fancifully ornamented with shells, as were those I + described in a previous letter. They are very thin, many of the + children painfully so, which is surprising when one sees the + abundance of their flocks and herds. The villages, too, are well + built. The houses are low and flat-roofed. They are in many cases + built of stone, and some of them have inner courts, with a sort of + veranda formed of boughs to sit under. They have, like the Arab + villages I saw at Alexandria, and which they strongly resemble, no + windows; but as the native’s life is entirely passed in the open + air, I suppose that matters but little. The natives seem to feel + the cold much, and go shivering about in the early morning and + evening in a pitiful way. They bring in honey for sale in pots, + weighing about ten pounds, and for which they charge two dollars. + Their own drink is made of this honey, fermented with the juice of + a plant which grows abundantly upon the plain. The honey, as they + bring it into camp, is very impure, and needs refining before + using. The commissariat officer rode out yesterday to one of the + villages, and bought a quantity of chillies, which will prove a + great addition to our fare when they begin to issue them, for we + have had no pepper served out since we landed; and a course of + mutton, unrelieved by condiment of any kind, is apt to pall upon + the stomach.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">All praise must + be given to the commissariat for the way in which they have + performed the service from Zulla to this <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page93">[pg 93]</span><a name="Pg093" id="Pg093" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>place. Not one day have the troops been + without their rations; and the animals, although they have not + always received their full supply, have yet always had something to + eat at the end of the day’s work. No commissariat officer + accompanied the pioneer force in their march up; but the whole + arrangements were made by Conductor Darcey, to whom the greatest + credit is due. During the whole march he did not lose a single + animal, or a single bag of grain. A commissariat officer has + arrived within the last two days; but honour should be given where + it is due, and certainly the greatest credit is due to those + noncommissioned officers for the manner in which, alone and + unaided, they have carried out the difficult duties intrusted to + them. Two prisoners were brought in yesterday. They are part of the + gang who have been infesting the pass, robbing every convoy without + a guard of Europeans. They were captured by a friendly chief, who, + with his men, came upon the whole gang. The rest fled, throwing + away their weapons, of which quite a bundle was brought into camp. + The prisoners, being old men, were unable to escape, and were + brought in triumph by their captors into Rayray Guddy, whence they + were forwarded to Colonel Merewether. Their preliminary examination + by the interpreter took place in the open air. The prisoners and + their accusers squatted in a circle, and a number of natives + gathered round. These last were evidently greatly amused and + surprised at the formality of the proceedings,—as the guilt of the + accused was undoubted, articles of European manufacture, such as + portions of harness, being found in their possession,—and the idea + being evidently prevalent that we should hang them at once. They + were removed to the guard-tent, and will, I suppose, be regularly + tried, and well flogged, in a day or two.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page94">[pg 94]</span><a name="Pg094" id="Pg094" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This expectation + was not verified; the prisoners were let off, with an admonition to + behave better in future; and this happened again and again. The + absurd course pursued by our political officer towards native + offenders produced, as might have been expected, very disastrous + consequences afterwards. The natives learnt that our baggage could + be plundered with impunity, and that even when taken red-handed in + the act, the chances were that no punishment whatever would be + inflicted. They naturally ascribed this conduct on our part to + fear—for in Abyssinia the punishment for theft is very severe, the + culprit frequently having his hand cut off—and were encouraged to + plunder accordingly. A moderate share of energy, one grain of + common sense among the authorities at Senafe at this time, so that + the first two or three offenders caught plundering our convoys in + open day should have been flogged to within an inch of their lives, + and plundering would have been put a stop to at once and for ever; + and a very great many lives, both of our own muleteers and of the + natives themselves, would have been eventually saved.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is a great + satisfaction to know that in the course of a short time we shall be + able to purchase for the use of the army any number of bullocks and + sheep. We have not been able to do so heretofore, for the absurd + reason that we have had no money. Will it be believed that a body + of troops marching on into a country where it is supposed they + would be able to purchase any quantity of animals for themselves + and the army which is to follow them, should have come up with the + military chest totally unprovided with money? It is almost too + preposterous, but it is perfectly true. A chest of two thousand + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page95">[pg 95]</span><a name="Pg095" + id="Pg095" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>pounds arrived yesterday + under a guard. But what are two thousand pounds when we want three + or four thousand bullocks alone, and when Colonel Merewether has + fixed the price of each at six dollars and a half—that is, as + nearly as possible, thirty shillings?</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I shall be able + to send you but little news from here. Colonel Merewether proceeds + to-morrow morning forty miles into the interior. He takes with him + a troop of cavalry, a large stock of mules, &c., but he + declines positively to allow a <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">confrère</span></span> + and myself to accompany him. He is civil, but firm. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“The addition of two persons would probably break down + the whole party. Starvation might ensue, and he could not guarantee + that we should be fed.”</span> These are actually word for word the + reasons he gives for declining to allow the only two special + correspondents here from accompanying his force. He can victual + himself, Colonel Phayre, three or four other staff-officers, and a + troop of cavalry; but two correspondents were too much for the + resources of the commissariat. We called upon him twice; we urged + upon him that it was a matter of great interest to the public that + we should go forward. We said that we would put him to no trouble, + but would bring our own mules, with ten days’ provisions, if + necessary. He declined positively to allow us to go. He would, when + he returned, give us details, and that was all he would do. The + public, in fact, might read his official report and be thankful; + for none other, says he, shall they receive. Had we arrived here as + two unaccredited strangers, his conduct was perfectly explicable; + but provided as we were by the courtesy of the India Office with + letters to Sir Robert Napier, and furnished by him, in consequence, + with a circular letter, requesting all officers of the army to + forward our <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page96">[pg + 96]</span><a name="Pg096" id="Pg096" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>wishes in every way, we certainly had not + expected to have been refused the chance of availing ourselves of + the very first opportunity which has fallen in our way of sending + you something really new from Abyssinia.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc26" id="toc26"></a> <a name="pdf27" id="pdf27"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Camp, Senafe, December 23d. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the time I + closed my last letter I had no idea that my next communication + would be dated Senafe. Colonel Merewether’s unaccountable refusal + to allow my fellow-correspondent and myself to accompany him upon + his expedition had rendered our further stay here useless.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Accordingly, an + hour or two after the expedition had started from camp, I packed up + a light kit and started for the sea-shore. The road, as far as the + top of the first descent, is now so free from stone that it might + be used as a race-course, but we found that nothing had yet been + done with the zigzag down the face of the hill. However, as we met + no mules upon our way it was an easy descent enough; indeed the + whole pass, from end to end, although it has its difficulties, + still presents no real obstacle to a single traveller. It is only + when viewed in the light of a highway for an army, as the only line + of communication up which the stores of 20,000 men must come, that + one considers it to be a really terrible business. No forage is + procurable for the baggage-animals between the sea and Senafe, + seventy miles. A large proportion, therefore, of the mules is + occupied in carrying food for themselves and their companions. The + stages, too, for heavily-burdened animals across an + exceedingly-rough road are distressingly long. Twelve miles a-day, + with a pause for an hour to feed and water in the middle of the + day, could be done by <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page97">[pg + 97]</span><a name="Pg097" id="Pg097" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>heavily-loaded mules without deterioration of + their quality. But here all the stages, except the last, + considerably exceed that distance; and from Sooro to Rayray Guddy, + over thirty miles, is practically without food or water. This is + what makes the Koomaylo Pass so difficult as the highway of an + army—want of forage the whole distance, and long intervals between + the watering-places; to which may be added the disease which + infects the pass and decimates the animals as they go up and down. + The mule, although one of the most enduring of creatures, and + capable of sustaining great privations, is yet a delicate animal. + Feed him well, keep him supplied with water and hay, and he will do + wonders; but without regular and abundant food he falls away + rapidly. During the last campaign in Italy there were thousands of + mules engaged transporting provisions up the Tyrol to Garibaldi. + They had great fatigue and long marches, but they were well fed and + had plenty of water; and consequently throughout the campaign I + never saw a dead mule, and hardly one out of condition. Here it is + just the reverse; the mules are greatly fallen off, and although + they are now much better fed, they will be a very long time before + they regain their lost strength. In respect to food a great + improvement has been effected in the last few days. Captain Sewell + has been here about a week. He is in charge of the commissariat, + and has purchased considerable quantities of hay, which is now + served out to the mules here, and to their even worse-off brethren + down at Rayray Guddy; for here, at least, in their intervals of + labour the mules were able to graze, while in the valley there is + not a blade of grass to be had. Captain Mortimer, indeed, who is in + charge of the transport division there, only kept his animals alive + by compelling their drivers to go up <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page98">[pg 98]</span><a name="Pg098" id="Pg098" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>to the summit of the hills, either before + their day’s work is begun or after it was over, and to cut and + bring down a certain weight of hay. It is very fortunate that + vultures are so abundant in this country. Were it not for them the + pass would be unbearable from the taint of dead animals. Between + the top of the pass and Rayray Guddy, a distance of eight miles, we + passed more than that number of dead mules and ponies, most of + which had been only dead three days at most; and everyone of these + had been partially eaten by the vultures, who keep wheeling and + circling in the air overhead, and scarcely is life out of an animal + before these scavengers swoop down upon it. I have seen as many as + seven or eight of these great birds eating and fighting over the + carcass of a single horse. The ride from the bottom of the steep + incline to Rayray Guddy I have already described, and it is + certainly the most beautiful ride of seven miles I ever traversed, + the brilliancy and variety of the foliage, the number and beauty of + the humming-birds and butterflies, all being in addition to the + ordinary scenery of a mountain pass. I find that the great trees I + described as tulip-trees are not really tulip-trees, although their + foliage strangely resembles that tree. Authorities differ as to + what they really are; some affirming that they are banyan-trees, + while others say that no banyan-tree was ever seen without the long + pendulous roots from its branches, of which there are here no + trace.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Upon reaching + Rayray Guddy we found that Sir Charles Staveley had arrived there + two hours previously from Sooro. He had not heard of the departure + of Colonels Merewether, Phayre, and Wilkins, and as the principal + object of his journey had been to see them, he was of course much + disappointed. However, he determined now he had come so + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page99">[pg 99]</span><a name="Pg099" + id="Pg099" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>far, to go on to Senafe, and + we decided upon returning with him, as we had now no motive for + going down, and, indeed, it was possible that he might either ride + out himself to the point whither Colonel Merewether had gone, or + might send an aide-de-camp to request him to return, in either of + which cases we knew that he would grant us permission to go. + General Staveley was the more disappointed at the absence of + Colonel Merewether because he had taken the precaution of writing + two days previously to announce his coming. The letter, of course, + had not arrived, for the general had performed the distance in + three days from Zulla to Senafe, and the post would take at least + two days longer. Nothing, indeed, can possibly be worse than the + postal arrangements, or rather want of arrangement. Relays of men + on foot carry the letters, and even these do not travel at night. + But the great question which everyone is asking is, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“What becomes of the letters?”</span> I have not + received a single letter or newspaper of a later date than November + 4th. Some few people have been more fortunate, and occasionally get + a letter or paper; but they are exceptions. One feels as absolutely + cut off from England as if a great gulf had opened between us. I + did hear this morning from someone who had had the luck to receive + an odd newspaper that the amount for the Abyssinian war had been + voted, and we had a hearty laugh over the news that the expenses + were laid at four millions. I only hope that the post down is a + little better regulated than that up, for if not, instead of + getting my letters regularly once a-week, they will probably arrive + in a mass about the end of next June. The general came up here on + the 22d. He will, I believe, start on his return journey to-morrow, + whether Colonel Merewether and <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page100">[pg 100]</span><a name="Pg100" id="Pg100" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>his party come into camp or not, as his + presence is absolutely necessary on the sea-shore. It will be + unfortunate if he should miss them after his long journey up here, + especially as he had made certain of seeing them; for the committee + of exploration, which consisted of Colonels Merewether, Phayre, and + Wilkins, was dissolved by an order of General Napier, which was + published ten days since, and of which these gentlemen of course + received a copy. General Napier thanked them warmly for their + efforts to carry out their duty, and for the success which had + attended them, but stated that General Sir Charles Staveley had + gone to Zulla to take the command until he himself arrived, and + that therefore there was no longer any occasion for the existence + of the committee. In the face of this order General Staveley could + hardly have expected that these gentlemen would have proceeded on + an expedition forty miles into the interior without any + consultation or reference to himself.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">An important + messenger came into the camp on the afternoon of the 22d. He stated + that he was the servant of Mr. Flad, and, indeed, was identified as + being so by several people in camp. He stated that he had started + with a letter from Mr. Flad, and with one from King Theodore, but + that he had been robbed of them upon the way. He brought, however, + one piece of important and very disagreeable news, namely, that + Theodore had marched from Debra Tabor to Magdala; had raised the + siege of that place by the King of Shoa, and had taken the whole of + the captives back with him to Debra Tabor. This is the most + unfortunate occurrence which could possibly have taken place. As + long as the captives were separated from him by his enemies they + were safe; and if, as will in all probability be the case, the + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page101">[pg 101]</span><a name= + "Pg101" id="Pg101" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>army of Theodore + should disband at our approach, and he himself rule safely in the + fortresses of the mountains, where search for him would be out of + the question, we should have marched to Magdala and effected the + release of the prisoners. Now we have no such hope. We may toil on + across mountain and ravine, but we know that our hands are + shackled, and that the tyrant we war against can at any moment + purchase peace upon his own terms. Theodore can laugh our efforts + to scorn; he knows that he need not disquiet himself. He can let + the expedition approach him. He can chuckle over the enormous waste + of treasure and effort, even if not of human life; and he knows + that at the last moment he can arrest us with the + ultimatum—<span class="tei tei-q">“Return at once, and I will + release my prisoners; move one step forward, and I will sacrifice + every one.”</span> This is very disheartening, and takes away from + the expedition that zest and buoyancy which the thought of a + possible skirmish at the end of the toilsome journey would give it. + Nothing could be more unfortunate than the loss of Theodore’s + letter by Mr. Flad’s servant. It may be that in it Theodore offered + to restore the captives at once upon the agreement that we would + advance no farther. It may be that he held out the threat that the + prisoners would be put to death did we not at once agree to his + terms. Altogether it is most unfortunate. It is to be hoped that + Theodore will see the manifest likelihood of his messenger being + stopped upon the way, and will send his letter in duplicate by some + other hand. There is a rumour current among the natives this + morning that Theodore has released the captives, and that they are + upon their way down. There is, of course, no finding out the origin + of this report, but it is most unlikely <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page102">[pg 102]</span><a name="Pg102" id="Pg102" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>that he would deliver them up until, at any + rate, he had obtained a promise that we in return would abandon all + idea of advancing upon him.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The disease + among the horses still continues. Those who have been the longest + up here appear comparatively safe, but it would seem to require + some time to get the disease out of the blood. Every morning three + or four mules are dragged out of the camp to the foot of the hills, + a mile off, there to be eaten by the vultures. Yesterday afternoon + my groom came to me with the unpleasant intelligence, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Sahib, your baggage-pony ill.”</span> I went out and + found him lying down. Upon the veterinary surgeon arriving he shook + his head, and, pointing to the swollen tongue, said that it was the + disease, and that in a couple of hours it would be dead. We tried + brandy-and-water in the vain hope of reviving him, but it was quite + useless, and in a little over the two hours the pony died, having + been apparently unconscious for an hour and a half previously. + Yesterday, too, the horse of Dr. Lamb, chief veterinary surgeon of + the transport corps, died. Dr. Lamb came up with us a week since. + After spending three days here inspecting the animals he returned, + but as he did not wish his horse to run the risk of again going + down into the pass, he left it here in perfect health, and rode + down again upon a baggage-pony. Yesterday the poor animal died, + after the usual three hours’ illness. Dr. Lamb strongly recommended + that all animals which can be spared should be at once sent up + here. Unfortunately none of the baggage-animals, except those which + work the last stage from Rayray Guddy here, can be spared. They + must remain below to carry up provisions and baggage whatever the + mortality may be. General Staveley has ordered that in future 10 + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page103">[pg 103]</span><a name= + "Pg103" id="Pg103" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>per cent of spare + animals shall accompany every train of loaded mules, to take the + baggage off those who give in on the way. He has also ordered that + the artillery-horses shall be instantly sent up here with their + native attendants. The soldiers cannot accompany them, as their + warm clothing has not yet arrived. He has also ordered that the + cavalry regiments shall be sent on the instant they land. The + general has taken particular interest in the transport train since + he arrived at Zulla, and it is due to the order he gave and to the + assistance with which he supplied them from the 33d and Beloochee + regiments, that the train down at Zulla has been enabled to make + head against the tremendous difficulties they have sustained owing + to the wholesale desertion among the drivers, and to the + uselessness of a great portion of those who remain. He has divided + the baggage-animals which are in the country into regular + squadrons, stationing a number at each station proportioned to the + length and hardship of the journey. General Staveley, indeed, is + the very man for an expedition of this sort. Whatever he sees is + necessary, he takes upon himself the responsibility of ordering to + be done. I consider his arrival at Zulla to have been most + providential. Everything was going wrong, disorder ruled supreme. + All this is now at an end. General Staveley has taken the command, + and unity of action is once more introduced. Whether Colonel + Phayre, now that his committee of exploration is dissolved, may + determine to go down to Zulla or to remain here, is now of little + importance, as Major Baigrie, the deputy-quartermaster-general, is + fully capable of carrying on the duties, supported as he is by the + weight of General Staveley’s authority.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This morning the + 10th Native Infantry were engaged in <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page104">[pg 104]</span><a name="Pg104" id="Pg104" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>clearing a large space of ground of stones, in + order to make it suitable for a parade-ground. It was wonderful to + see how fast they got through the work, and how much more they + accomplished than an equal number of Europeans would have done in + the same time. And this because squatting is the normal attitude of + an Oriental. In this attitude they can remain for hours; therefore + the work of collecting the stones into heaps, which in turn were + carried away in empty rice-bags by another party, was the easiest + affair possible. It is very amusing looking on at these native + fatigue-parties, the varieties of costume are so great. The 10th + Native Infantry, like the Beloochees, is recruited from all parts + of India, and contain Mussulmans, Punjaubees, Sikhs, Patans, + Hill-men, and, in fact, specimens of most of the native races, the + Hindostanee proper being greatly in the minority. To a certain + extent these men cling to their own costume, consequently in a + party of a hundred of them on fatigue-duty the variety is + astonishing. Men in red turbans and white turbans, in red, white, + or violet nightcaps—these articles having been served out to these + men as part of their warm clothing—some in coloured jackets, white + underclothing, and long drawers, others with nothing on but the + cumberband, or loincloth, some entirely in white, with their legs + covered to the knee. Many are the shades of colour too, from nearly + jet black down to the rich bronze of the Sikhs. Almost all are + fine, well-built men, and all appear to work with good temper and + with a will. The parade is to take place upon the new ground + to-morrow evening. It is not settled yet upon what day General + Staveley will leave, but his present intention is, in case Colonel + Merewether returns on the morning of the 25th, to start the same + afternoon.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc28" id="toc28"></a> <a name="pdf29" id="pdf29"></a> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page105">[pg 105]</span><a name= + "Pg105" id="Pg105" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Camp, Senafe, December 26th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When I wrote on + the 23d instant I had not made up my mind whether I should spend + Christmas here or on the road downwards. But circumstances finally + compelled me to wait here until to-day; and I am glad for several + reasons that I did so. The first and most important was in + reference to the story brought by Mr. Flad’s servant, namely, that + Theodore had marched to Magdala, had raised the siege of that + fortress by the rebels, and had taken all the captives back with + him to Debra Tabor. As this news was brought by a man who was + recognised by some in camp as being what he claimed—Mr. Flad’s + servant—his statement was received without suspicion, and the event + was justly considered to be most unfortunate. When, however, the + exploring-party returned, Dr. Krapf, the chief interpreter, + examined the man, cross-questioned him as to time and dates, and + found that these were quite incompatible with the truth, as the man + described them as having taken place in the latter part of October, + whereas our last news from Mr. Flad himself was to November 7th, at + which time none of these movements had taken place. Finding himself + thus caught, the man confessed that his whole statement was a lie. + I need not say that this contradiction of the false news gave the + greatest satisfaction to everyone, but the general feeling was that + six dozen, well laid on, would be of enormous benefit to the man + who thus invented false news, apparently merely for the pleasure of + gratuitous lying. Of course he will not be punished, for the policy + pursued with respect to the natives is mild in the extreme. By all + means conciliate natives, by all means pay for all you take, do no + wrong to anyone; but at the same time make them respect you by the + firmness with which you administer justice upon <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page106">[pg 106]</span><a name="Pg106" id="Pg106" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>thieves and plunderers, and do not + encourage the people to cheat you by ordering a price at least six + or eight times above their former prices for every animal or + article you buy. The men who were taken in the act almost of + robbery down the pass, and whose preliminary examination I + described a week since, have not been flogged, or, as far as I am + aware, in any way punished, nor have three other ruffians who were + captured the following day. The natives put this forbearance down + to timidity on our part. They cannot comprehend that any other + feeling could prevent our punishing these men, who have been + robbing our convoys, now that we have them in our power. It may be + a course of Christian forbearance, but officers whose kits have + been plundered are very sore that fellows of this kind are not + summarily punished upon the spot.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + exploring-party went forward to Attegrat, a place of some size, + about thirty-five miles from here. They went by one route and + returned by another. One line was rather more mountainous than the + other, but both are, I hear, quite practicable, and water, forage, + and wood were found in abundance. At Attegrat a large fair was + going on, and very large quantities of cattle, sheep, goats, + ponies, and mules, together with grain, chillies, honey, &c., + were exposed for sale. The appearance of the escort of cavalry + excited the greatest curiosity, and the party were almost mobbed as + they walked through the fair. On parts of the route they passed + through enormous flights of locusts, which the people were + endeavouring to frighten away from their fields by beating drums + and pieces of metal together, and by lighting great fires. The + locusts abound everywhere here; not a bush which has not + half-a-dozen of these insects, hardly a rock <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page107">[pg 107]</span><a name="Pg107" id="Pg107" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>without one or two crawling over it. The + natives say they have not had so many for years, and that the crops + have been very greatly damaged by them. The only things which + benefit by them are the monkeys and birds, both of which feed upon + them. The natives themselves also eat them to a certain extent. The + method of preparation is as follows: A large hole is made in the + ground. This is lined smoothly with clay. A large fire is lighted + in this, and when this has burnt down the ashes are scraped out, + the hole is filled with locusts, and covered up with clay. When the + insects are sufficiently baked they are taken out and pounded into + a fine powder, which is eaten mixed with rice or flour. At Attegrat + the expedition found blocks of salt used as the medium of exchange: + we have not seen any in this part of the country. In the fair they + also saw some really warm cloths of native manufacture. This is + important, as, if the supply turns out to be abundant, it will save + the expense of bringing warm clothing for the native troops from + England. Indeed, warm clothes appear to me to be a most unnecessary + portion of our enormous baggage. The weather by day, even at this + the coldest time of year, and upon one of the most elevated parts + of our journey, is never cold enough for warm clothing. At night + men require an extra blanket for warmth, and this they might wrap + round them over their greatcoat upon unusually cold nights. On + Christmas-eve the general inspected the troops, who performed + several manœuvres. He left on Christmas-day at three o’clock, four + hours after the return of the expeditionary force, and having had a + conversation of some length with Colonels Merewether and Phayre. + One good result among the many brought about by the general’s visit + here will be, that we shall now have some little attention + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page108">[pg 108]</span><a name= + "Pg108" id="Pg108" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>paid to health. A + medical officer had been appointed as sanitary officer, but his + appointment, for any good it did, might as well have never been + made. It was not that this officer failed in his duty, or that + there was no need for his services; on the contrary, the state of + the watering arrangements was disgraceful, the native troops + washing, &c. in the pools above those from which the + drinking-water was taken. The water certainly has to filter through + the peat before it reaches the other pools, but that is little + satisfaction. It is true that this was against orders, but the + number of sentries posted was quite insufficient, or else they + winked at the proceedings of their fellow-soldiers. I myself rode + past half-a-dozen times, and never without seeing native soldiers + washing on the edge of the pool. The latrine arrangements connected + with the 10th Native Infantry hospital were also simply scandalous. + But worst of all was the state of the pass, dotted with dead + baggage-animals in every stage of decomposition, and the stench + from which was almost overpowering. The sanitary officer had + pointed out these evils, and had applied for power to take on a few + natives to burn the carcasses in the pass. This suggestion, + however, had been passed over as absurd, and he might as well have + been in Bombay. Nothing whatever was done. General Staveley, + however, restored this officer to his proper place, and gave him + authority to take on the natives and burn the dead animals, which, + had nothing been done, were offensive enough to have created the + worst epidemic among the advancing troops. Other medical officers + have been appointed to take bands of coolies and clear the + different stages of this pass. The horse-disease still continues + very bad. Of the six horses brought up by the general and the + members of his staff, four were taken ill the <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page109">[pg 109]</span><a name="Pg109" id="Pg109" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>day after his arrival here. They do not, + however, appear to have taken it in a virulent form, and will, I + hope, get over it. Yesterday being Christmas-day was of course kept + with all honour; that is to say, with such honours as could be + paid. It was hard to believe it was Christmas-day, especially among + native troops; to them, of course, it was no festival. The day was + fine and hot—the thermometer 75° in the shade, but very hot where + there was no shelter. I fastened a large bunch of fir and of a + plant somewhat resembling myrtle to my tent-pole, and two or three + of the other tents were similarly decorated. One of the engineer + officers had quite a triumphal arch of green erected before his + tent. Large circular arbours were built up by the 10th Native + Infantry and by the 3d Cavalry, to serve as shelter from the wind + while they sat round the fire after dinner. I was invited by the 3d + Native Cavalry to take my Christmas dinner with them, and a capital + dinner it was under the circumstances. Two huge bunches of fir were + fastened to the tent-poles, the table was formed of the lids of + packing-cases, and we sat round upon boxes and chairs of every + height and make. Here was a man on a seat so low that his chin + hardly appeared above the table; next to him one perched up so high + that his knees were on a level with his plate. Nor were the + fittings of the table less various. It was the camp rule that + everyone should bring his own plates, knives, forks, and glasses. + Some of us therefore fed off tin, some off crockery, some off + enamelled iron. Some drank from glasses, some from pewter-pots. The + only uniformity was in the bottle of champagne placed before each + diner. Most of us would, I think, have preferred beer; but there + was not a bottle left in the camp, and the champagne before us had + been hoarded for <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page110">[pg + 110]</span><a name="Pg110" id="Pg110" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>this sacred occasion. The dinner was various. + Mutton and guinea-fowl; spur-fowl and venison; but, whatever we + ate, everyone present religiously took a piece of the joint of + roast beef. It was the only reminder of the occasion. I need not + say how heartily each joined in the toast of <span class= + "tei tei-q">“All friends at home.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I start this + afternoon on my way down the pass again to Zulla, and shall carry + this letter down to post there, as the ridiculous arrangements to + which I have before alluded still prevail. A native still creeps up + and down the pass with a bag on his back, and takes his four or + five days to do the seventy miles, whereas two relays of men on + mules or ponies would bring the bag down in fifteen hours easily. + As it is, no one knows whether they will be in time to catch a post + or not. In fact, it is a pure haphazard proceeding.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc30" id="toc30"></a> <a name="pdf31" id="pdf31"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Zulla, Annesley Bay, January 2d, 1868. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have been now + three days back in Zulla, which is literally crowded with troops. + In respect to the pass, nothing could be more surprising than the + change which has taken place in the road during the fortnight which + has elapsed since I first passed up. This is due to the way in + which the sappers and miners, under officers of the Royal + Engineers, and the advanced companies of the Beloochees, under + Major Hogg, have worked. The latter are at work in the valley below + the Rayray Guddy pass, and here they make very nearly a mile of + road a day, along which artillery might be taken without + difficulty. It is wonderful to see the change which they have + effected, and the hearty way in which they work. Not less + surprising is the change which the sappers and miners have + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page111">[pg 111]</span><a name= + "Pg111" id="Pg111" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>effected in the Sooro + Gorge. When I last rode up it, it was, as I described it, all but + impracticable for loaded animals. One had to clamber over a huge + boulder here, to scramble through between two others there. It was + a really difficult proceeding, and loaded camels were unable to get + through the narrow places. Now all this is changed. A path winds + here and there among the rocks, down which I was able to ride my + horse without the smallest difficulty. The worst part of the + journey was the passage of the thirty-three miles between Rayray + Guddy and Sooro, without water, except a bucket of + pea-soup-coloured stuff at Guinea-fowl Plain for the animals. It is + proposed to sink more wells at this point, to put up some pumps, + and to establish a small commissariat dépôt, in order that troops + may break their march there. As we rode down this dry parched + valley for thirty miles, occasionally meeting detachments of weary + men, who asked us pitifully how far it was to water, we could not + help thinking of one of Colonel Phayre’s reports, in which he + stated, <span class="tei tei-q">“From Sooro to Senafe, about thirty + miles more, water never fails.”</span> The fact being, not one + single drop is to be found in the thirty miles above Sooro, save at + one muddy well.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At Koomaylo I + found an astonishing change. The thorn-trees which had lined the + bottom of the valley had been all cut down; a large space had been + cleared as a camping-ground for troops as they march through; fresh + wells have been sunk, and there are some of the American pumps at + work, discharging a stream of clear water, which, flowing through a + succession of tubs, enables the animals to be watered in one + quarter the time formerly occupied. These pumps, which are called + <span class="tei tei-q">“the Douglas pitcher-spout pump,”</span> + are certainly admirable <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page112">[pg + 112]</span><a name="Pg112" id="Pg112" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>machines. When I had first heard of their + arrival, and of the principle of their construction, I had not + thought it possible that they could be used in such ground as this. + They consist of a number of thin iron tubes like gas-pipes, + screwing into each other, the lowest one terminating in a sharp + spike of slightly bulbous form, so that, being thicker than the rod + itself, it only touches the soil through which it is driven at that + point, thus greatly diminishing the friction and resistance. On to + the pipe, at about four feet from its upper end, is screwed a block + of iron, which can be shifted as the rod gradually descends. A + heavy weight of iron, with a hole through it, is put on the rod + above this block, and to this weight ropes are attached working + through pulleys placed on the top of the rod four feet higher. Two + men pull these ropes, and the weight rises, and then falls, acting + as a rammer upon the anvil of iron below. In this manner the whole + rod is driven down, fresh lengths being added as required, and then + a pump is established without the labour of sinking a well. The + whole thing is simple in the extreme, and admirably adapted for + clay or gravel soils. It could, however, hardly be expected to be + successful in the bed of a torrent, where the gravel is mixed with + blocks of stone of every size, as it is evident that a hollow pipe + could not be driven through solid rock. The tube, however, in nine + cases out of ten, pushes any obstacle aside, and reaches the + required depth. It is intended to arrange a series of troughs, so + that the animals may be enabled to drink upon their arrival without + the weary hour of waiting which they have now to go through. + Indeed, it is a wonder that serious accidents have not occurred + owing to the eagerness with which the maddened animals struggle and + fight to get to the water. At Koomaylo we found two com<span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page113">[pg 113]</span><a name="Pg113" id="Pg113" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>panies of the 33d regiment. They have + since been joined by another, and the three marched last night on + their way to Sooro. Three other companies of the same regiment + marched from here this morning, and will at once follow their + advanced wing, while the head-quarters and remaining companies go + on to-morrow. There is also a battery of the Royal Artillery at + Koomaylo, that is, the guns, and a portion of the men are there, + the horses and drivers having been sent up to Senafe to be clear of + the disease. I met them at Sooro, and the animals were then all in + splendid condition, and not a single horse or baggage-animal was as + yet affected. Great as I had found the changes at other points + along the line, the alterations were as nothing to those which had + taken place at Zulla. The harbour contained more than double the + number of vessels that were here before. It is probable that hardly + a great commercial port in the world contains such a fine fleet of + steamers and sailing-transports as are now lying off this place, of + which no one had ever heard six months ago. The camp, too, was so + altered that I had the greatest difficulty in finding the tent I + was in search of, although it stood precisely where I left it three + weeks since. But the place, which then contained under twenty + tents, can now count ten times that number. The 33d are encamped to + the right of the landing-place, at a quarter of a mile distant. + General Staveley and his staff have moved their tents from the spot + where they before stood, in the very centre of the dust and din of + the place, to a little beyond the 33d lines, where General Napier’s + tents are also pitched. The harbour is full of troops, who are + clamouring for carriage to enable them to get on. The Scinde Horse + are landing, as are the 3d Native Infantry. The 25th Native + Infantry and her Majesty’s 4th Foot are there, as are <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page114">[pg 114]</span><a name="Pg114" id="Pg114" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>artillery batteries and mountain trains, + as are mules and horses innumerable, and a bewildering amount of + stores. Very large quantities of these latter are now being + forwarded to the front, and 3000 of the little cattle and donkeys + of the natives have been engaged upon the service. The price paid + is two and a quarter dollars per bag, and each bullock carries two + bags, some of the smaller donkeys taking one each. The natives are + responsible for any loss of stores, but up to the time I left + Senafe not one single bag had gone astray. These animals are rather + a nuisance to meet going down the pass. Our own mules go in + strings, one tied behind the other, and the drivers, if one meets + them, endeavour, as far as possible, to make room for an officer to + pass. The natives, on the contrary, drive their animals in a herd + before them, occupy the whole width of the track, and make no + effort whatever to get their cattle out of the way. It is in vain + shouting and being angry. The Shohos regard one with placid + indifference, and you must push your horse into a thorn-thicket or + up a rock to get out of their way. If you happen to overtake one of + these native herds in rather a narrow place, it is still more + provoking, for there is nothing to do for it but to follow + patiently in their train for perhaps half-a-mile, half smothered in + the dust they raise, until the valley opens, and you are able to + leave the path, and get past them among the stones and scrub. These + oxen are very small, but extremely hardy. There is nothing for them + in the way of forage all the way up. All they have to eat are a few + leaves from the bushes, and such handfuls of grass as their masters + may get for them by climbing the sides of the hills, and yet they + arrive at Senafe in good condition and without signs of distress, + with their skin smooth, and their eyes bright. This accession of + stores <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page115">[pg + 115]</span><a name="Pg115" id="Pg115" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>at + Senafe is a great assistance. It is an addition to our stock there, + and it is a great relief to the transport corps to be able to + continue their regular work of forwarding regiments, and stores for + present consumption of man and beast. The transport train is now + doing its work very much better; but I shall have more remarks to + make upon them in my next. Brigadier-general Collings started + yesterday to take the command at Senafe, and I expect to find that + very material changes have, in consequence, taken place there. + Brigadier-general Schneider has arrived here, and will take the + command at this landing-place.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The great event + of to-day is the arrival of Sir Robert Napier, whose ship, her + Majesty’s steam-ship Octavia, Captain Colin Campbell, was signalled + as about to enter the harbour early this morning. The anchor was + dropped at about half-past ten, and General Staveley and the heads + of departments went off at once to see him. He is to disembark this + evening. As it is war-time, there was no salute or demonstration + upon the arrival of the ship.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc32" id="toc32"></a> <a name="pdf33" id="pdf33"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Zulla, Jan. 6th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is only after + a ride or two round camp that one sees how very great are the + changes which have taken place in the last three weeks. I do not + know that anywhere in the world could more objects of various + interest, more life and movement and bustle, be found than in a + couple of hours’ ride through this camp. Start we from the head of + the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">bunder</span></span>—in England called pier; + but here everything has its Indian name. The <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">bunder</span></span> + has, since I last wrote, been lengthened a few yards, and has been + widened at the end <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page116">[pg + 116]</span><a name="Pg116" id="Pg116" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to + a width of fifteen or twenty yards. On one side, too, wooden piles + have been driven down, so that the great landing barges can lie + safely alongside and discharge. It will be a great thing when it is + finished in the same way all round the pier-head. Not very pleasant + are one’s first steps upon Abyssinian soil, for the pier is made of + great rough pieces of rock and pumice-stone, painful to walk upon, + and utterly destructive to boots. In spite of this the pier-head is + crowded. The hour at which we start upon our ride is daybreak, and + from daybreak until eight o’clock bathing is allowed from the pier, + as also from five to seven in the evening. Here we have a number of + figures, some dressing, some undressing, some picking their way + painfully over the stones to their clothes, others in the act of + plunging into the water, which is at high tide seven feet deep. + Around, the sea is dotted with heads, many of which we recognise + and address. Here is a quartermaster-general, there a colonel of + infantry, next to whom is a drummer-boy, and beyond a dozen + privates. There is no distinction of rank here. Everyone picks out + the softest stone he can find to sit upon, and cares nothing + whether his next neighbour be a general officer or a full private. + We pick our way as well as we can across this bit of rough ground + and through the groups of bathers, and then at ten yards from the + head of the pier we come upon smoother ground. Here is a line of + rails, and the surface has been smoothed by spreading sand over it, + an improvement which has only been completed two or three days + since. Before, a walk down the bunder was certain destruction to + any but the most iron-shod pair of boots. By the side of the + bunder, where the rail commences, a large barge is lying. She has + just come alongside, and <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page117">[pg + 117]</span><a name="Pg117" id="Pg117" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>fifty or sixty mules and ponies, her cargo, + are looking over her rail with excited eyes and restless inquiring + ears at the bustle on the quay, and at this land, which, although + they know it not, is destined to be the grave of many of them. On + the pier, awaiting their arrival, is one of the indefatigable + officers of the transport train. He has with him a couple of men. A + long gangway is laid from the barge, which is much higher than the + pier, down on to the stones; on this are thrown some gunny-bags, + and then the animals, some coming readily enough, others resisting + strenuously, snorting and struggling, are led down. As they reach + the land their head-ropes are tied together in fours, and they are + sent off with their drivers to wait at the end of the bunder until + all are landed. It is not a long operation. Ten minutes or so, and + then an inspector takes them off, first to the watering-troughs and + then to the lines. Opposite the landing-barge, on a vacant spot on + the pier, a distilling apparatus is at work. This machine, I + believe, partly supplies the sailing-ships, and also the wants of + the fatigue-parties at work on the pier. Next to the barge lie two + native boats discharging stores, which a fatigue-party are loading + into the trucks, under the direction of the officers of the + quartermaster’s or commissariat departments. As soon as the trucks + are loaded, a party of Soumalis seize them and push them along the + track to the yard, shouting their universal chorus as they do so. + Next to the native craft unloading are a number of boats belonging + to the ships in harbour, and which are either supplied to one of + the departments, or are waiting while their skippers are on shore. + On the opposite side of the pier the water is more shallow, and + boats never come in here, but it is by no means empty at + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page118">[pg 118]</span><a name= + "Pg118" id="Pg118" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>present, for there + are a couple of hundred men bathing all along—less adventurous + spirits, who do not care for the plunge into deep water, or for + walking <a name="corr118" id="corr118" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">over</span> + pumice-stones with naked feet.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When we get to + the end of the bunder we mount our horses, which our gorrawallahs + have been holding, and we follow the line of rails. As soon as we + are fairly ashore, we find great piles of stores lying by the + rails. These belong to the land transport stores. Hundreds of great + cases, each containing four Otago mule-saddles. Piles of Bombay + pads and of camel-saddles. Their other stores are sent up to their + own lines, a quarter of a mile farther; but the heavy saddles have + not been sent there, as the line has only been opened to that point + during the last two days, and it is much easier to bring the mules + down and to saddle them here than it is to take the heavy cases on + farther. There is a saddling-party at work now. It consists of a + fatigue-party of artillery, directed by an officer of the transport + corps. A Chinese carpenter opens the cases. Two of the men lift the + contents out, and cut the lashings which secure each separate + article of the fittings together. Others stand round and fit the + saddles together—no easy task, for they are extremely complicated. + This, however, is not of so much consequence as it would otherwise + be, for, once put together, they do not require much subsequent + unstrapping. Others then put the saddles and bridles on to the + mules, some of which object most strongly to the operation, pull + back violently, turn round and round as fast as the man with the + saddle approaches, and lash out with a steady power which, exerted + in any other way, would be highly satisfactory. In vain the + soldiers try to keep them steady. In <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page119">[pg 119]</span><a name="Pg119" id="Pg119" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>vain pat, coax, strike, and swear. In vain + they strap up one of the fore-legs. Some of the beasts are quite + unmanageable, and are only subdued by strapping up a leg, and then + keeping them going round and round upon the other three until quite + exhausted. The cases of the saddlery are broken up, and spread out + upon the ground to pile bags of rice or grain upon—no unnecessary + precaution, for a high tide the other night wetted an immense + quantity of hay, and the stores have been since shifted farther + inland. The engineers had constructed a sort of sand-wall to + prevent the recurrence of such an event; but they calculated + without their host. They fortified against the enemy in front, but + made no account of him in the rear. The consequence was that in the + heavy rain of Saturday night the water came rushing down from + behind, and being prevented flowing into the sea by this dam, again + created a small flood, but this time of fresh water, in the + commissariat yard. The commissariat yard when I was last here stood + where the transport yard now stands, but it is now shifted more to + the left. The reason of this was that the commissariat stores, the + bundles of compressed hay and the bags of rice and grain, are not + too heavy to be carried ashore by the natives, while the heavy + cases of the transport corps necessarily were put in the cars. The + commissariat stores are therefore principally landed in native + boats, which come into three-foot water, and from which lines of + wading Soumalis bear them to land. The heavier stores, such as + barrels of rum and ghee, are of course landed on the bunder and + brought up on the trucks. Everywhere about the end of the pier is + bustle. Here are a party of Madras coolies moving stores. There are + a hundred mules just starting with <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page120">[pg 120]</span><a name="Pg120" id="Pg120" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="corr120" id="corr120" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">provisions</span> + for the front. Here come a detachment of one of the regiments to + take charge of some of their baggage just being landed. Everywhere + an energetic officer of the various departments directing the + operations. We now ride on. Leaving the line of rails we turn to + the right, bearing gradually away from the sea. The first group of + tents we come upon are those of the officers of the land transport. + They will not be there long, however, for they have orders to shift + over to the other side, where the lines of their animals are five + minutes’ walk away, and at the extreme right of the camp. Did these + officers’ duties lie principally at their lines, there would be + some reason for this; but as it is, they are either on the bunder + landing horses, or else saddling down by the shore. The duties of + looking after the animals in their lines have of course to be + generally supervised by an officer from each division, but are + under the charge of English inspectors, who are sergeants in + cavalry or line regiments. The lines, being to leeward of the camp, + are constantly enveloped in a cloud of blinding dust, so thick that + one cannot see fifty yards. To live in such an atmosphere is next + to impossible, especially when delicately scented by the odour of + the three or four thousand mules, ponies, and oxen, to say nothing + of the native attendants close at hand. The former spot where they + were encamped was only five minutes’ walk distant, and to insist + upon these officers living and working close by their lines is + about as reasonable as an order would be for the officers of the + Life Guards to sleep in their stables. I am convinced that General + Schneider will have to revoke his order, for it will be simply + impossible to keep books or accounts in a dust which would be two + inches thick in five <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page121">[pg + 121]</span><a name="Pg121" id="Pg121" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>minutes upon everything; and although an + officer’s comfort or health may be a very trifling matter, anything + which might be an obstacle to his returning the necessary number of + reports and statements will be certain to be considered.<a id= + "noteref_1" name="noteref_1" href="#note_1"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">1</span></span></a> Riding + through the transport officers’ lines, we come upon a line of tents + occupied by the medical staff. Then comes a gap, and then we enter + the lines of the European regiments, at present occupied by + portions of the 33d and 4th infantry and artillery. Its appearance + bears little resemblance to that presented by a regiment under + canvas at home. The tents are of an entirely different shape; they + are single-poled tents, and are perhaps fifteen feet square. They + have canvas walls of nearly six feet high, so that one can stand + upright anywhere. Above the tent itself is a cover, which extends + over it and projects three feet beyond the walls, making the tent + double over the roof, and forming an awning around it. About eight + inches is left between the two roofs for the circulation of air. + These tents are in their way perfect, but they are extremely heavy, + and will be left here, and the troops will take up with them tents + known as native <span class="tei tei-q">“routies”</span>—I do not + guarantee the spelling of this or any other native word—which I + shall describe hereafter. Not less than the tents do the men differ + from the European standard. The gray suits of karkee—a sort of + stout jean—and the ugly helmets of the same material, look like + anything rather than the garb of the British soldier. Then, too, + the arrangement of the camp looks unfamiliar, for the tents are + placed far asunder. This is necessitated by the great length of the + ropes of the tent. Here, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page122">[pg + 122]</span><a name="Pg122" id="Pg122" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>too—strange sight in an English + camp—interspersed among the tents are queer bowers of shrubs, + covered with gunny-bags, old sacks, and other odds and ends. Round + these bowers squat swarthy figures scantily clothed. These are the + camp-followers, the attendants on the British soldier; these their + abodes. These men draw his water, pitch his tents, sweep out his + camp—in fact, perform all the work which a soldier in England does + for himself. In India the soldier is a valuable animal. He is + valued at one hundred pounds, and is too costly to be risked by + doing hard work in the sun. He is kept for fighting only, and it is + very right that it should be so. It has been questioned whether it + would not have been better to have brought soldiers direct from + England, who are accustomed to rough it for themselves. There is + much to be said upon the subject, to which I shall some day revert, + but at present I am inclined to think that in this respect the + authorities have judged rightly, for judging by the 102° which the + thermometer marked here in the shade on New Year’s-day, we shall + have a more than Indian heat—that is, those down upon this plain + will—in the middle of summer, and although the heat in the interior + will probably be nothing to what it will be here, there can be no + doubt that the less men are exposed to it the better. But we must + continue our ride.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Just behind the + European lines, that is, between them and the sea, is a line of + tents, some of which are of large size, and by the side of one of + these the British ensign is flying. These are the tents of the + head-quarters staff. We turn our backs on this and gallop across + the European lines, that is, inland. There is an unoccupied space + of perhaps four hundred yards, and then we come upon a camp of + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page123">[pg 123]</span><a name= + "Pg123" id="Pg123" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>quite different + aspect from the last. Here the tents are ranged in two lines, and + are placed quite close together, that is, with not more than three + or four yards between them. The neat and orderly appearance of + these lines of tents shows to all the greater advantage after the + straggling look of the European lines. These tents are routies. + They are large double-poled tents, single, but lined with blue + bunting. The tents, like the English bell-tents, reach nearly to + the ground, with only a wall of about eighteen inches in height. + The opening is at one end, and extends from the pole downwards. + This is, for a climate like the present, a great drawback, for the + opening is very large and cannot be closed. In a hot climate this + would matter but little; but for a country with heavy dews and cold + nights in winter, and with heavy downpours in the rainy season, it + is a very serious disadvantage. Opposite the long line of the + routies are the mess and officers’ tents. There are two regiments + camped in these lines, or, more properly, portions of two + regiments. The men on duty look more like England than the European + troops had done, for they are all in their scarlet tunics and black + trousers. It is only the headgear which is different. The 3d Native + Infantry have blue puggaries round their forage-caps. The 25th + Native Infantry have green. The 10th Native Infantry wear white + puggaries, and the Sappers and Miners black, and this acts as an + easily-distinguished mark between the various native regiments. + They all wear the regulation tunic and trousers, but vary the + puggary or cap-cover according to the taste of their commander. + When I say they all wear the British uniform, I mean that the old + sepoy regiments do so. Some of those who have only been admitted + among the regular Indian army of late years, <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page124">[pg 124]</span><a name="Pg124" id="Pg124" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>such as the Beloochees, wear quite + different uniforms. I have omitted to state that in our ride + between the 33d and Native Infantry camps, we passed through some + artillery; but these, as well as the sappers and miners, and the + ordnance commissary tents—which, with the telegraph, railway, and + other departments, are pitched near the line of railway—I must + reserve for another letter. We are only making a tour of the + outside of the camp upon the present occasion. Riding on through + the native infantry lines, and crossing a few hundred yards of open + ground, we come to the bazaar, which is on the main road to + Koomaylo. The bazaar is certainly not much to look at. Two or three + dozen tents, composed of rough poles covered with matting, + constitute it. As there are no windows to any of these + establishments, it is unnecessary to state that there is no display + of goods. There is an open doorway through which any intending + purchaser enters, and asks for anything he desires. If it is kept + there a box is opened and the article produced, if not he goes into + the next shop. There is a guard of European soldiers at the + entrance to the bazaar to keep order, and their services are not + unfrequently called into requisition. During the last part of our + ride we have fairly got into the dust, which hangs over Zulla in a + sort of lurid cloud, and entirely shuts off all the view, even the + nearest hills from the harbour. This dust is terrible. It fills the + eyes, mouth, and nostrils, and equals the dust on the Champ de Mars + in Paris, which I had hitherto considered unrivalled in the world. + Sometimes the wind blows steadily, and then there is one great + uniform swoop of dust; at other times it seems to lull for a while, + and then from three or four spots a straight column ascends, such + as burning piles <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page125">[pg + 125]</span><a name="Pg125" id="Pg125" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of + green wood upon a calm day might produce. These columns will remain + stationary for three or four minutes, and then move rapidly along, + and woe to the unfortunate tents over which they may pass, for they + will make a clean sweep of every light object, and will leave three + inches deep of sand on everything. In camp phraseology, these + little whirlwinds are called devils. Passing from the bazaar, still + moving as before in the arc of a circle, we come upon the railroad. + The railroad has made far less progress in the last month than + anything else here has done; at this rate it will not be near + Koomaylo by next Christmas. I do not hesitate to say that ten + English navvies would have done very much more in the same time; + and as for the Army Works Corps, which we had in the Crimea, they + would have half-finished it to Koomaylo. But this delay is due to + no want of zeal on the part of those who have the direction of it, + but simply a want of method, and of materials, which are, no doubt, + somewhere on board ship, but cannot be got at. Just at this part we + pass under some poles with a fine copper wire extending between + them. This is the telegraph, which in a very short time will be + open to Koomaylo, and thence will be pushed on in a week or so, for + the wire is at all the stations along the line of march; and it + would have been completed to Senafe by this time were it not that + the poles have not come to hand, from some reason or other.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We now are + approaching the lines of the transport animals. This is the most + interesting sight in the whole camp. Here are long lines of ponies, + just arrived from Suez. Next to them are hundreds of mules of all + nations and breeds. Here are the cart-mules, and 200 light carts, + to be drawn <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page126">[pg + 126]</span><a name="Pg126" id="Pg126" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>by + one or two animals, are ranged near them. Beyond them are the + baggage-mules, 600 in number. All of them have arrived during the + last two or three days; many of them have not yet been saddled, for + the unpacking and fitting together of the saddles is a long and + tedious operation. Many of the mules are not even branded. Beyond + them, again, come the draught-oxen, with their carts. They are the + same beautiful white Brahmin cattle which I saw at Bombay—enormous + animals, as strong as camels and quiet and docile as sheep. Near + them are ranged their carts, which are of altogether different + construction from those for the mules. On the ground under the feet + of all these animals is scattered a thick layer of chopped straw + and hay, and their condition and state afford as strong a contrast + as can possibly be conceived to that of the famished, dying animals + I described in the letter I wrote upon landing a month since. This + extraordinary improvement must be assigned to the immense efforts + which all the officers of the Transport Corps have made, and + especially to those of Captain Twentyman, of the 18th Hussars, who + during that period has been in command. But even the exertion of + all these officers would have been in vain had it not been for the + strong and cordial assistance which General Staveley has given to + Captain Twentyman. Every suggestion made by the latter has been + indorsed and ordered to be carried out by the general, who is fully + alive to the fact that the Transport Corps is the all-important + branch of the expedition. The animals are all picketed by their + head-ropes to long lines of picket-rope, but no heel-ropes are + used. Certainly the use of heel-ropes adds greatly to the + uniformity of the appearance of picketed animals, as they all + retain the same distance from each other and from <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page127">[pg 127]</span><a name="Pg127" id="Pg127" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the ropes, and there is also the + advantage that they cannot kick each other or any passer-by. On the + other hand, it may be said that mules seldom or never do set to and + kick when picketed. I have seen no instance of their so doing; and + I understand from the transport officer that there have been no + cases of mules being injured by kicks received when picketed. The + advantages of their not having foot-ropes are that they have much + greater freedom of position. They can lie down, get up, and move + across the rope, and, in fact, stretch their tired limbs far better + than they can when they are confined by foot-ropes; and, lastly, + the mules are not accustomed to the ropes, and frequently get sore + fetlocks from their use. The balance of advantages is, then, in + favour of allowing them to remain picketed only by their + head-ropes, especially as the fastening by the heel-rope involves + driving in pegs and loss of time in roping—matters of importance + when a train arrives late at night with drivers and animals alike + jaded and fatigued. The whole of the animals are now in fair + working condition, with the exception only of about 200 camels, + which are out at Hadoda, where they were sent to recruit, having + arrived in too bad a condition to be set to work. There were more + sent out, but some have returned to work, others have died—many of + pure starvation, although there were stores of grain lying at Weir, + within two or three miles, literally rotting. But the custom is not + to give camels grain, but allow them to get their livelihood by + plucking a few leaves from the shrubs. It is not to be wondered at, + then, that the poor beasts gained no strength. This will now be + remedied, for Dr. Lamb, one of the veterinary surgeons of the + Transport Corps, has reported that they are dying of <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page128">[pg 128]</span><a name="Pg128" id="Pg128" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>pure starvation; and I understand that + General Staveley at once ordered that grain should be issued to + them.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In my next + letter I shall describe the organisation of the Transport Corps; + but at present we must continue our ride, which is now nearly over, + for we have almost completed our circle, and are again approaching + the sea-shore. We pass on our way some strange bower-like + structures, whose progress I have watched for the last few days + with some curiosity. I first saw three or four long lines of sand, + which were carefully levelled, and were four or five yards wide, + and perhaps fifty yards long. By each side of these lines of sand + coolies were engaged sticking rods, about the same length, but + thinner, than hop-poles. I could not even guess the object of these + lines. Next day I found that poles had been stuck in across the + ends, and that at distances of four yards across partitions had + been made. Riding close, I saw that in the side row a gap was left + as a doorway to each of these partitions. The next day I found that + thinner rods were being fastened to the tops of the others—along + which horizontal pieces had been tied—and that these were being + bent over and twined in the centre, so as to form a bower. The + mystery was now explained. These long rows of poles were the + framework for rows of huts; bushes are to be entwined between them, + and the whole, when finished, will accommodate, or rather hold, + five hundred of the commissariat coolies, for whom they are + destined. We now trot on to the watering-place. The last time I was + here it was one of the most painful sights I ever witnessed to see + the animals watered. They were formed in lines near the miserable + little troughs, and were with the greatest difficulty kept back + until these were full. Half maddened with <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page129">[pg 129]</span><a name="Pg129" id="Pg129" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>thirst as they were, it was a service of real + danger to restrain them, and when they were allowed to rush forward + it was too often to find that there was scarcely a mouthful of + water each. It was no wonder that they screamed and struggled and + fought. It was a battle for life, in which the victors moved off + unsatisfied, but with sufficient water to enable them to live until + the next scanty supply was issued, while the vanquished dragged + themselves away to die. Thank God this is over now. There is plenty + of water for all. I do not think an animal in this camp has an + insufficiency of water. The trough is long and wide, and the + animals advance on each side and drink as much as they desire. The + times for watering them is from six to eight in the morning, and + from four to six of an evening. A strong fatigue-party are present + to pump the water from the tank into the trough, and to keep order. + They are ordered to leave the trough full when they cease pumping, + so that any animal which may arrive late may not be deprived of its + drink.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We have now only + to ride along the shore for another 300 yards to arrive at the + commissariat stores on the left of the bunder, from which we + started. Here everything is excellently arranged and managed. The + great piles of stores are covered with tarpaulins and old sails to + keep off the rain; and as it was impossible to procure stones to + form a foundation for the sacks, and to keep them clear of the + damp, broken-up packing-cases were laid down first on the sand, + then empty sacks, and then bales of hay from Bombay, which is much + more bulky and less valuable than the compressed hay from England. + No damage of any great extent can therefore ensue from the heaviest + flood. There are two very <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page130">[pg + 130]</span><a name="Pg130" id="Pg130" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>large wooden stores, in which articles readily + damageable by rain are housed; and there are two very large + framework buildings erected, which only require the corrugated + iron-plates.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Nearly opposite + the commissariat a long wooden jetty is in course of erection. It + is already completed for a considerable distance; but the water is + so shallow, that it will have to be carried very much further out + before boats can come alongside to load.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We have now + completed our circular ride round the camp; and I must leave the + camps and dépôts lying in the interior of the circle until another + occasion, for I have not yet touched upon the immediate news of the + day.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">General Napier + landed yesterday morning at half-past seven. A guard of honour of + the 4th regiment was drawn up at the end of the pier, and the + various generals here, with their staffs, and the heads of the + different departments, received him. I had heard that he was going + to land earlier, and went down to the waterside just at + daylight.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Everything was + quiet then, and not a breath of wind ruffled the water. Presently + there was a sign of life in the men-of-war, the Octavia, Serapis, + and Argus. Men began to climb the rigging, and to fasten man-lines + above the yards. Then they came down again, and all was quiet on + board the men-of-war; but the merchant-vessels were now making a + move, and the native boats were putting off towards the ships they + were told off to discharge. In the mean time the guard of honour + and the officers took their places at the head of the bunder. Now a + signal is run up to the mast-head of the Octavia, and, as if by + magic, a crowd of white figures leap up the shrouds of the + men-of-war, and run out <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page131">[pg + 131]</span><a name="Pg131" id="Pg131" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>upon the yards. Another minute of silence, and + then a boat with an awning pulls out from the after-side of the + Octavia, and a few seconds afterwards the thunder of her guns tells + us that the Chief of the invading army has left the ship. Three + minutes later the little guns of the mountain train proclaim that + he has landed; the band strikes up <span class="tei tei-q">“God + save the Queen,”</span> the troops salute, and Sir Robert Napier + has taken command of the forces here.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">After all, this + is more a ceremony than a reality, for the General has been ashore + examining into all that was going on every day since he came into + harbour. There is a great feeling of satisfaction at his arrival, + as, in the first place, he is a most popular chief, and in the + next, nothing definite could be decided upon as to the movements of + troops or on the plan of the campaign until he arrived. The + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">on + dit</span></span> now is that no more troops will be sent forward + at present, but that the whole efforts of the transport corps and + commissariat will be devoted to accumulating a six months’ stock of + provisions at Senafe. The 33d have already gone on; but it is now + probable that no other regiment will move for another + fortnight.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We have at last + authentic news from the interior. A letter has arrived from the + prisoners, dated Dec. 15th (I can hardly understand how, at the + Shoho rate of travelling, it can have come so fast), in which they + report that the King of Shoa, who was besieging Magdala, and upon + whose assistance Colonel Merewether had built much, has retired + from before the place, and that it is now open to Theodore. This is + certainly bad news. Not that I have ever put the smallest trust in + the assistance of any of these kinglings. On the contrary, I think + that the policy which has been hitherto pursued with <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page132">[pg 132]</span><a name="Pg132" id="Pg132" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>respect to the natives has been a + mistake. We should have never asked for alliance or friendship. We + are perfectly strong enough to go on by ourselves, and were we not + it is certain that we could place no reliance upon any professions + of friendship. Why, then, make the natives think we are weak by + asking for allies? Say firmly to each king, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“We are going on through your country to fetch the + prisoners beyond. We are perfectly strong enough to do this, and + anything beside which may be necessary. We go through and return + without making any stay. In your country are many kings and many + rivals. We need no assistance, and we know that if we enter into + alliance with one chief we gain the enmity of another by so doing. + We wish not, therefore, to enter into any alliance whatever. We are + friends passing through your country. We require stores, cattle, + &c., and we mean to have them; but we pay for everything we + require, and that at prices which the imagination of the herd-and + flock-owner of Abyssinia never before conceived even in his wildest + dreams.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There are + numerous rumours current in camp that the chiefs are forming an + alliance against us, and that they intend to put their forces in + motion to attack us. But of all this I cannot say that I believe + one word. Nor do I consider it a matter of importance one way or + another, for if they do come they will go away again at a vastly + greater rate of speed than they advance, and will be very much more + civil afterwards. After the landing of the Chief yesterday I went + on board the Gomta, which has brought in nineteen elephants from + Bombay, in charge of Captain Annesley, of the Land Transport Train. + They all arrived in excellent condition, having been perfectly well + during the whole voyage, except <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page133">[pg 133]</span><a name="Pg133" id="Pg133" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>for two days, when there was a strong wind, + which made them very unhappy. The debarkation was to begin directly + the Commander-in-chief had landed. Accordingly, a party of sailors + and marines came on board from the Octavia. The tackle had been + already fixed, and the barge was alongside. It had been at first + proposed that the animals should have been lowered over the ship’s + side into the water, and allowed to swim ashore; but the difficulty + in relieving them of the slings would have been so great that it + was determined, at any rate, to make the experiment with the barge. + The animals were down in the hold, which was amply high enough even + for the largest of them. They were ranged along on either side, + with strong beams between each. They could lie down or stand up as + they pleased. The operation of landing them was superintended by + Captain Annesley, and by one of the officers of the Octavia. Large + blocks were attached to the mainyard, which was strengthened by + extra stays. One of the animals who was in the stall immediately + under the hatchway was selected for the first experiment. The first + difficulty consisted in getting the sling which was of the + strongest canvas, with strong ropes along each side, under him. It + was laid down upon the ground, and the mahout endeavoured to back + the animal over it. Again and again he got him into the right + position, but the instant the sailors pulled to the cords to lift + up the sling the elephant made a rush forward. At last Sergeant + Evans, who is one of the first-class inspectors in the transport + train, succeeded in getting the sling under him in his stall, and + then getting on his back, backed him under the blocks, the sailors + keeping the sling in its place until they could get the hooks fast. + Even then all was not finished, for the alarmed <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page134">[pg 134]</span><a name="Pg134" id="Pg134" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>elephant continued trumpeting, and + endeavouring to rush back to his stall. Sergeant Evans managed to + get the breast- and hind-ropes fast, and then all that remained was + for the men on deck to work the capstan. The fife struck up, and + the elephant, protesting strongly but uselessly, was gradually + lifted off his feet. Once in the air the great beast’s strength was + useless, and he swung an inert mass, except that as he went through + the hatchway he got his hind-feet against it, and pushed with so + much force, that it was feared for an instant that he would push + himself head foremost out of the slings. In another minute, + however, he rose above the hatchway, and was now beyond the + possibility of doing himself or anyone else any harm. Up he rose, + higher and higher, and then he was swung clear of the bulwarks, and + lowered down into the barge. Here his mahout and attendant received + him, stroked his trunk, and soothed him, and he allowed his slings + to be taken off quietly, and stood quite tranquil until two more of + his companions were raised from the hold and lowered to his side. + Thus far nothing could be more satisfactory. Some of the others who + landed later in the day gave more trouble, and had it not been for + Sergeant Evans there would have been very great difficulty with + them; but he is, without exception, the most resolute and fearless + fellow I ever saw at work. Had it not been for him it is + questionable whether the elephants would have been got on board at + Bombay on the day fixed for their embarkation, and he was raised + from the position of a third-class to that of a first-class + inspector on the spot for his gallantry.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When these + animals were on the barge it was determined to disembark them + before lowering others down, in order to see whether they would + walk on to the pier. A steam launch <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page135">[pg 135]</span><a name="Pg135" id="Pg135" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>accordingly took the barge in tow, and steamed + away to the landing-place. These little steam launches are the most + handy and useful things here; no matter how large the barge or how + long the string of laden boats, one of these little craft seizes + upon it and rushes off with it without the slightest difficulty. On + arriving at the wharf I saw at once that we should have a + difficulty. The naval authorities who had charge of the landing had + entirely disregarded the nature and instincts of the animals; and + every child who has ever read anything at all about an elephant has + heard that these clumsy-looking animals can get up and down the + most difficult places, but that they have an invincible objection + to trusting themselves upon any platform or bridge, and can only be + induced to do so after many experiments as to its strength. The + barge was nearly four feet above the level of the pier, and as the + sides of the latter slanted somewhat, the side of the barge was + distant about a foot from the jetty. But an elephant would have got + down this as easily as a man would have done. Instead of allowing + him to do this, some rails which had been landed for the line were + put from the shore to the barge, the gangway used by the mules + placed upon this, and the elephants were required to walk down. + They naturally objected, especially as they were not allowed to + pause and examine it, but were urged to walk straight on. This they + refused pointblank to do, in spite of the efforts of the mahout, + and the shoving and striking of the attendants behind them. They + would not advance, but lay down to express their determination. At + last one of them, on being forced close to the gangway, kneeled + down, and with his head gave the whole structure a push which moved + it several inches. He then stood up and walked away, having proved + to his <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page136">[pg + 136]</span><a name="Pg136" id="Pg136" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>own satisfaction that we must be fools to + expect an animal his size to walk along such a rickety structure as + that. Still the heads of the debarkation were loth to give up their + favourite idea of a platform. The gangway was taken away, and the + marines and sailors brought rails and laid them tier on tier, + gridiron-fashion, and placed the gangway on that; and thus having + formed a sort of step or platform two feet high, they invited the + elephants to step on to it. Again the elephants positively + declined, and everything was again tried except patience, the one + thing needed. Fortunately, just as the naval authorities were + variously discussing the necessity of again slinging the animals + and lowering them into the sea, to walk ashore, Captain Moore, + interpreter to the Commander-in-chief, appeared upon the scene. At + his suggestion the animals were allowed to approach quietly and to + kneel down and inspect and try the structure upon which they were + to trust themselves; and in another quarter of an hour they were + all three safely landed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">An order of the + day appeared yesterday thanking the pioneer force and Colonel Field + at Senafe for their efforts. There are many remarks down here upon + the fact that while the officers and men who marched up to Senafe, + and have passed a comparatively quiet and pleasant time up there, + have been thanked, there should be no word of praise for the men + who have been working almost night and day down here. If any praise + was to be given, it has certainly been earned by the men who have + borne the heat and burden of the bad times at Zulla. This morning + the mountain-guns, made at Woolwich, were out for practice. These + guns have been fully described in the columns of the English press, + I need not therefore enter into any details. The practice with + shell was <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page137">[pg + 137]</span><a name="Pg137" id="Pg137" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>very fair, the little guns throwing the shell, + which are nearly half their own length, with great precision, at + 2000 yards. They appeared to me, however, to throw rather to the + right. The troops were also out at exercise, and an order has been + issued that all the regiments shall go for a march out every + morning. This is as it should be: it will keep the men in health, + and prepare them, to a certain extent, for the hard work they will + probably have to go through when they once start.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc34" id="toc34"></a> <a name="pdf35" id="pdf35"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Zulla, January 19th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This has been a + week altogether barren of events. No move of any kind has been + made, or is at all likely to be made, for another fortnight at the + very earliest. The transport train is exclusively employed in + taking provisions to the front, and this is a very tedious process. + The mules and ponies carry nominally a burden of two hundred pounds + each, the camels four hundred pounds; but there are very few indeed + of the former capable of bearing their proper burden, and I think I + may say not one of the latter. Were an attempt to be made to load + them to their full weight, the result would be that one-third of + the animals at least would break down in the first two miles. A + great number of animals are in hospital; but a vastly-greater + proportion are still able to perform a certain amount of work, but + nothing like their full quota. These are afflicted with coughs and + lung-affections, which will, sooner or later, bring them into + hospital, and thence to their graves, the victims of overwork, when + in a weakened state, from irregular and scanty supplies of food and + water. The transport train is at present so essentially the corps + upon which the movements of the army depend, that it will not be + out of place if I explain at some <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page138">[pg 138]</span><a name="Pg138" id="Pg138" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>little length the constitution and duties of + the corps and its officers. The transport train is commanded by + Major Warden, and is divided into fourteen divisions, each of + which, when complete, contains two thousand animals and twelve + hundred men, including drivers, farriers and smiths, saddlers, + &c. Each division is commanded by a captain, who has two + subalterns. He has four inspectors or sergeant-majors, two + second-class inspectors, sergeants; five third-class inspectors, + corporals—all European soldiers. He also has two second inspectors + and five third inspectors—natives; and one hundred native soldiers, + who are supposed to act as assistants.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It will be seen + that each division is as strong as three cavalry regiments; it is + composed entirely of drivers collected hastily from all parts, + Egyptians, Arabs, Italians, Greeks, Hindoos, &c.—all men + without the smallest conception of military discipline; and to + manage this vast body of men and animals there are a captain and + two officers, and eleven white noncommissioned officers. Were each + division stationary, or did it move in a body together, the task + would be comparatively easy; but it is scattered over the pass, in + convoys of from 200 down to little parties of twos and fours, with + officers’ baggage. The rules which have been drawn up for the + regulation of the corps are admirable on paper, but utterly + impracticable on service. Each native soldier is supposed to have + control over twelve drivers and twenty-five mules, and is himself + amenable to a head muccadum, or fourth inspector, he to a third, + the third to the second, &c. <span class="tei tei-q">“Each man + in charge of a squad is to see that every animal brought in from + duty is groomed, has the feet picked and cleaned, the provender put + before him, the back well sponged with hot water.”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“The saddles will invariably, when taken + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page139">[pg 139]</span><a name= + "Pg139" id="Pg139" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>off the animals, be + placed upside down to dry, pads towards the sun, and afterwards + neatly piled up with the equipments affixed to each, in rear of + each squad, dressing from the right of the line.”</span> All these, + and many similar rules, are admirable in theory; utterly + impracticable in the field. A convoy arrives late at night. Its + first task is to unload, and then to place food before the animals, + and to water them if water is attainable; then drivers and animals + lie down alike exhausted, and grooming, picking feet, and arranging + equipments, dressing from the right, are alike unheeded. The + officers of this corps have an almost impossible amount of work to + get through. They are supposed to see their animals watered, to + parade those which have to start, to see them fed, to see them + groomed, to examine their backs, to see that the numerous convoys + start at the right time, to look after the polyglot variety of + drivers, most of them speaking Arabic, and other unknown tongues. + Then they have to look after the native soldiers, to send in + reports innumerable, and to keep office-books; they have to perform + quartermaster duties and paymaster duties; they have the + pay-sheets, family-payment rolls, returns of stores, equipments, + defaulter-sheets, &c. to make out with their own hands, unless + they take one of the few European inspectors from his work to act + as clerk. <span class="tei tei-q">“They are further responsible for + the good order and condition of the cattle, and the due + preservation and completeness of their equipments, and must see + that each individual soldier, noncommissioned officer and + inspector, does his work.”</span> In addition to all this, at + present they have to be on the pier, seeing the animals landed, and + to inspect the putting together and fittings of the saddles and + equipments, and the issue of warm clothing to the + drivers.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page140">[pg + 140]</span><a name="Pg140" id="Pg140" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This is a slight + sketch of the duties which these three officers have to perform for + 2000 animals and 1200 men, with half-a-dozen European + noncommissioned officers to assist them. The inspectors, too, have + been in many cases selected by the officers commanding regiments, + without the slightest reference to their acquirements. Very many of + them can hardly speak a word of Hindoostanee, and are of course + perfectly useless. All this greatly augments the labour and + difficulty of the officer. To say that these last are at work from + morning to night is nothing. It is one incessant round of toil, + from five in the morning till seven at night, and then reports and + accounts. If the officers could but do their work their own way, + each for his own division, they would do it—roughly perhaps, but + effectually; but it is this constant demand for reports, and the + changes which are constantly being made in the arrangements, which + make the work far too much to be got through. The great mistake + which was committed was the sending any Hindoo inspectors and + soldiers unless all, or at any rate the greater part, of the + drivers had been also Hindoo. Hindoo drivers would have obeyed + Hindoo inspectors and soldiers; the Arabs and Egyptians, who form + the great proportion of the drivers, laugh in their faces. A + Hindoo, too, is not an inventive man—give him his orders, be quite + sure that he understands them, and he will carry them out as long + as all goes straight; but he is a very helpless man if things go + wrong. These mule-drivers are the most utterly reckless of men. If + a mule breaks down, they leave him and his load upon the road. If + one breaks down in a narrow spot they will be a good hour before + they come to the resolution to pull him out of the way and continue + their journey. If a cart-wheel gives out, there it may <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page141">[pg 141]</span><a name="Pg141" id="Pg141" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>lie. If an animal has a sore back, or + has the disease, or any other malady, it will never occur to them + to say a word about it until he falls helpless. Altogether, the + drivers of the train are a very reckless lot, who essentially want + looking after. The pay offered to the inspectors of the different + classes is very good, and there would have been no difficulty in + obtaining volunteers from English regiments throughout India, it + being of course made a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">sine quâ non</span></span> that they should + have had some colloquial knowledge of Hindoostanee. There should + have been at least fifty to each division, and then no convoy of + over twenty mules would ever have gone out without a European to + look after them. If one of the animals had been ill or lame the + inspector would report it; if a mule dropped he would see that the + burden was divided among the others; if a wheel had broken he would + make some shift or other to patch it up. He should have carried + side-arms, and would have seen that the animals kept together + without straggling, and would have prevented any looting on the + part of the natives. In fact, he would have saved his pay twenty + times over. It is this utter recklessness on the part of the + drivers which has contributed largely to the great mortality among + the animals. They will work the poor beasts with the most terrific + sore backs, until in their agony they can go no further; then they + will turn them loose and steal another from the lines, so that the + veterinary surgeons only find out that animals are ill when they + are utterly beyond work. Were sore backs, lameness, and disease + only reported at the right time, a few days’ rest and a little care + would set most of the animals up; now, frequently the first + intimation is received from someone who, riding along, has seen the + poor beast lying down by the roadside dying.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page142">[pg 142]</span><a name="Pg142" id="Pg142" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There has been + great discontent excited among these hard-worked officers of the + transport train—some of whom have been at work in Egypt or India + since August last; others of whom have borne the brunt of the worst + time here—at the introduction of a number of other officers over + their heads. The corps was constituted as a corps some months + since, and the officers have been placed according to their + regimental rank. According to all rule and precedent, every officer + gazetted to the corps after that would hold rank—that is, local + rank—according to the date of his gazetting into the corps. Instead + of this, they have been placed according to their date of + commission as captain, consequently the whole of the captains who + have been at work here from the landing of the expedition—who have + borne the toil and anxiety from the first—find two or three + officers placed over their heads, and, in fact, if this procedure + continue, will at the end of the campaign be six or seven lower on + the list than they were before. This is the more inexcusable, as + fourteen divisions were to be formed, and fourteen captains were + gazetted, thus making the corps complete; and each man hoped, and + had a right to expect, to have a division. Indeed, at first even + the authorities recognised this; and these captains, who wished to + come out to Abyssinia, but could obtain no other appointment, were + gazetted as subalterns in the transport train; and as this was + subsequent to the gazette forming the corps, it was naturally + supposed by the other officers that they came in as junior of that + rank. When, however, the first vacancy occurred in the captains, + instead of the senior lieutenant obtaining promotion as he + expected, one of these captain-subalterns was promoted to the + vacancy; <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page143">[pg + 143]</span><a name="Pg143" id="Pg143" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>and, as he was an old captain, he actually not + only jumped over the heads of all the subalterns, but over those of + every captain who was here when he landed, and thus become second + in command of the transport train. Since then other appointments + have been made, and the original captains at present find + themselves going gradually down instead of rising in their corps. + This, after such work as they have gone through, is not a little + hard, and is, I believe, quite without precedent in the + service.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The arrangements + for the position of the divisions have been so frequently altered + during the past fortnight that I am quite unable to say where they + are now posted. It was originally arranged by Captain Twentyman—at + the time he was in command—that each division should have one + station, and pass the stores from station to station. This was + afterwards entirely altered, and it was ordered that each division + should work from Koomaylo up to Senafe, and a captain was sent up + to send the animals down for the purpose. Forty-eight hours + afterwards another captain was despatched to entirely countermand + these orders, and to make perfectly fresh arrangements, and these + again have been altered during the last day or two. I need not say + that these constant and needless changes add very greatly to the + difficulties with which the officers of the train have to struggle. + At present the stores from here to Koomaylo are carried by camels, + and thence taken up by mules, oxen, and ponies from station to + station.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Strangely + enough, the through system, as it was called—that is, the sending + animals right on for days with the same loads—was persevered in to + the very end of the campaign, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page144">[pg 144]</span><a name="Pg144" id="Pg144" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>although it could be mathematically proved + that the relay system was in every respect greatly superior. + Captain Ellis, of the transport train, sent in a table to the + authorities, which proved conclusively that the same number of + mules would carry one-sixth more goods in a given time by the + <span class="tei tei-q">“relay”</span> system than by the + <span class="tei tei-q">“through.”</span> But the other advantages + were even greater; an officer stationed at any given place had the + men and animals of his division always under his eye. He would get + to know both man and beast; he would soon find out which men did + their work and which failed in it. The drivers and mules would each + have its allotted place, and an infinity of confusion would be + avoided; the arrangements for drawing forage for the animals, and + food for the men, for cooking, &c. would have all been simple + and practicable. Indeed, in every single respect, the relay system + possesses immense advantages. It could not, of course, have been + adopted beyond Antalo, but the saving of labour and life, the + increase of efficiency, regularity, and discipline, from its + introduction between Zulla and Antalo, would have been + enormous.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I am unable to + say how many animals are at present at work—probably nine or ten + thousand, and this number, devoted entirely to the conveyance of + commissariat stores as they are at present, would carry really + large amounts forward, were it not that they carry their own + forage, and were they of proper strength; but unfortunately a very + large number of them have lung-disease, brought on by insufficient + and irregular water and food. The number in hospital is terrible. + There are at present about 700 mules and 700 camels in hospital, + and the deaths are over 200 a-week. This is a terrible <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page145">[pg 145]</span><a name="Pg145" id="Pg145" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>mortality; but were all the others in + good working order, it would matter comparatively little; the worst + is, that very many are poorly, and will fill the hospital ranks far + quicker than death or discharge empty them. There are nominally ten + veterinary surgeons to the force under Veterinary Surgeon Lamb, an + officer of great experience; only five of the ten have arrived, and + these are terribly overworked, as they have no staff, and have to + inspect, prescribe, and administer medicines themselves. No time + should be lost in filling up the ranks of the veterinary surgeons, + and in giving them assistance, for when the numbers are complete + they will have at least 100 such animals each to attend to, and + these not trifling cases, but terrible sore backs, the last stages + of lung-disease, and the local plague. The authorities appear to + have thought the lives of the native drivers, officers, and + non-commissioned officers, of no consequence whatever, for although + there will be 280 Europeans and 18,000 native drivers when the + corps is complete, there is not a single surgeon appointed for + them! And this although the great part of the force will be + stationed at small stations along the road, at which there will be + no troops whatever, and of course no medical officer. The men are + very liable to broken limbs and injuries from the kicks of the + animals, and to illness from hardship and exposure; and yet to this + numerous body of men, nearly equalling in number the whole of the + rest of the expedition, there has not been a single medical man + appointed!</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The animals + which appear to support the hard work and irregular food with the + least deterioration are the bullocks. Of these a very small number + indeed have been ill, and the deaths amount to only one or two + weekly. They look in really good condition, and perform their work + admirably. Indeed, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page146">[pg + 146]</span><a name="Pg146" id="Pg146" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>the greater part of the mules and ponies look + in fair condition, and they have certainly no lack of food, except + at the up-stations. Very great credit is due to the commissariat + department, who have done very well, and against whom one never + hears a complaint. Since the first landing they have had an + abundance of stores for the men; and no instance has, as far as I + have heard, occurred of men being unable to obtain their proper + rations. The Commander-in-chief is making every effort to + strengthen the transport train, and has gazetted a number of + unattached subalterns for it. He has also, I believe, applied to + the native regiments here for volunteers for that corps; among the + subalterns, I hear, there have been few, if any, answers in the + affirmative. I understand that the European regiments have also + been applied to for volunteers among the noncommissioned officers + and men, to act as inspectors in the train. Among these, as among + the officers, I hear the appeal has not been responded to. The work + of the train is tremendously hard; and men fancy, and perhaps with + reason, that they have less chance of going forward to the front in + the train than they would have in their own regiments. There would + have been no difficulty originally in obtaining any number of men + from the regiments not coming to Abyssinia, as men would have + volunteered for the very reason that makes the men here refuse to + do so—namely, that they wished to see the war; in addition to + which, as I have said, the pay in the train is really very + good.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">But, after all, + what is most required by the transport train is a commanding + officer of far higher rank than a major. The transport train is, as + I have shown, a collection of fourteen divisions, each as numerous + as three cavalry regiments, the whole equalling in men alone the + rest of the expedition. To <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page147">[pg 147]</span><a name="Pg147" id="Pg147" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>command this immense corps a brigadier-general + of energy and standing should have been selected—a man who would + see the work done, and at the same time insist on being allowed to + carry out his plans in his own way, without interference from + others. As it is, everyone has advice to offer to the transport + train, and, while throwing the blame of everything that goes wrong + upon their shoulders, men do little to assist them; think nothing + of sending for transport animals, and then keep them waiting for + hours; start at times which render it impossible that the animals + can be watered; send in their requisitions at all sorts of odd + times; and, in fact, show no regard whatever for anything but their + personal convenience. Major Warden does his best, and works + indefatigably; but it requires an officer of much higher rank and + of great firmness and decision. The present would be a great chance + for an officer to make himself a name. To have successfully managed + so enormous a corps as the transport train under such extreme + difficulties as have already, and will in future visit it, would be + a feather in the cap of the most distinguished officer.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is a moot + question, whether it would not have been far better to have done + here as in India—namely, to put the transport train under the + commissariat; and the overwhelming majority of opinion is, that + this would have been a very preferable course. In the first place, + the commissariat have no responsibility whatever. They have simply + to hand over at Zulla so many thousand bags of rice, sugar, + biscuit, &c., and to say to them, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Deliver them in certain proportions at such and such + stations along the road.”</span> This done, their responsibility + ceases. If there is a deficiency anywhere, they have only to say, + <span class="tei tei-q">“We handed over the stores <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page148">[pg 148]</span><a name="Pg148" id="Pg148" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>at Zulla in ample time, and if they have + not arrived it is no fault of ours.”</span> I cannot but think that + it would be far better for the commissariat to have a transport + train of their own. In India they have proved over and over again + that they are capable of carrying out their transport arrangements + admirably. During the mutiny there was hardly a case occurred where + the commissariat did not manage to have the food up ready for the + men at the end of the day’s march. For the conveyance of military + stores and baggage, the transport train should be perfectly + distinct from that of the commissariat. So many mules and drivers + should be told off to each regiment, and that regiment should be + responsible for them. One of the officers and a sergeant or two + would be told off to look after them, and see that they were + properly fed, watered, and looked after. The transport-train + officer with the division would be in charge of spare mules, and + exchange them when required for regimental mules which might have + fallen sick by the way; in addition to which, a certain proportion + of spare mules for casualties might be handed to each regiment. In + case of a halt of a few days only, the mules would remain in charge + of the troops; but if the halt were likely to be prolonged, the + mules would be handed over to the transport officer, and by him + used to assist the commissariat, or upon any duty for which they + might be required.<a id="noteref_2" name="noteref_2" href= + "#note_2"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">2</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The elephants + have been handed over to the commissariat train. They walk + backwards and forwards between this place and Koomaylo, and take + large quantities of stores forward. The natives are never tired of + watching the huge beasts at their work, and wondering at their + obedience to us. This <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page149">[pg + 149]</span><a name="Pg149" id="Pg149" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>astonishes them, indeed, more than anything + they have seen of us, with the exception of our condensing water + from the sea. One of them was speaking the other day to an officer, + who is thoroughly acquainted with Arabic. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“You say you are Christians,”</span> the Shoho said; + <span class="tei tei-q">“this cannot be, for you wear no blue cords + round your necks. You are sons of Sheitan. You are more powerful + than the afrits of old. They could move mountains, and fly across + the air, but they could never drink from the sea, they could never + change salt-water into fresh. You must be sons of + Sheitan.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">No troops have + gone forward this week, with the exception of two companies of the + 25th Native Infantry, who have gone out to Koomaylo to furnish + guards and fatigue-parties there. No troops have landed, with the + exception of considerable numbers of the Scinde Horse. I was + anxious to see this regiment, which I have seen highly praised in + books, but which Indian officers with whom I have conversed on the + subject have generally spoken of in terms the reverse of + complimentary. I confess that their appearance is not imposing. The + men are dressed in long green frock-coats, green trousers, black + belts, and sabretasches, red sash round waist, and red turban. A + picturesque uniform in itself; but the long coat has a clumsy + effect on horseback. Their horses are, without exception, the very + ugliest set of animals I ever set eyes on. A greater contrast + between these men and horses and the smart 3d Cavalry at Senafe + could hardly be conceived; and yet the men individually are a fine + set of fellows, indeed are almost too heavy for cavalry. The great + point which has always been urged in favour of the Scinde Horse is, + that they carry their own baggage, and are independent of + commissariat or transport train. This is, of course, a most + valuable quality; <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page150">[pg + 150]</span><a name="Pg150" id="Pg150" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>and in India, where forage and provisions are + purchased readily enough, it is probable that the regiment may be + able to move about to a great extent on its own resources. Here it + is altogether different, and the regiment have indented upon the + transport train for just as many baggage-animals as other cavalry + corps would require. The only use of the herds of ponies which they + have brought with them is, to carry very large kits for the men’s + use—a matter of no advantage whatever to the public service, and, + on the contrary, involving great expense, as these ponies were + brought from India at the public expense, and have now to be fed + and watered. I shall probably have to return to this subject during + the campaign, as this system is one which has been strongly + advocated and as strongly attacked among Indian officers. The + railway continues to creep forward, and the first engine made a + trial trip to-day upon it. Although there is little more to do than + to lay the sleepers into the sand and to affix the rails, there is + at present only a mile complete. One dry watercourse has been + crossed, and here iron girders have been laid; but these nullahs + should be no obstacle whatever to the progress of the work, as + parties ought to be sent forward to get the little bridges, or any + small cuttings there may be, finished in readiness, so that no + pause may be occasioned in the laying the line. The country, with + the exception of these little dry watercourses, which are from + three to five feet deep, is perfectly flat; and the railway might, + at any rate, be temporarily laid down with great ease and rapidity, + especially with such a number of men as are employed upon it. As + the work is being carried on at present without either method or + plan or judgment, it is impossible even to predict when it will be + finished to Koomaylo.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page151">[pg + 151]</span><a name="Pg151" id="Pg151" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is a great + pity that the matter was not put into the hands of a regular + railway contractor, who would have brought his plant, gangers, and + plate-layers from England, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">viâ</span></span> Egypt, in three weeks from + the date of signing the contract, and who would, with native + labour, have had the line open to Koomaylo, if not to Sooro, ere + this. I am not blaming the engineer officers who are in charge of + the railway. They exert themselves to the utmost, and have no + assistance in the way of practical gangers and platelayers, and + have neither tools nor conveniences of any kind. Indeed, the actual + laying down of a line can hardly be considered engineers’ work. An + engineer makes the surveys and plans, and sees that the bridges, + &c., are built of proper materials; but he is not a professed + railway-maker, and is ill-calculated to direct a number of natives, + who neither understand his language nor have a conception of what + he is aiming at. It needed a body of thorough navvies, a couple of + hundred strong, such as we had in the Crimea, to show the natives + what to do, and to do the platelaying and skilled portion of the + work themselves. When I say the railway has been, and will be, of + no use to the advancing expedition, I of course except the line of + rails down upon the pier and up to the stores, as this has been of + the very greatest utility.<a id="noteref_3" name="noteref_3" href= + "#note_3"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">3</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + photographing party are up the pass, and have executed some + excellent views of the gorge. The engineers have succeeded in + sinking pumps at Guinea-fowl Plain, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page152">[pg 152]</span><a name="Pg152" id="Pg152" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>or, as it is now called, Undel Wells, and have + got a plentiful supply of good water. This is most important and + gratifying news. The journey from Sooro to Rayray Guddy, thirty + miles, without water, was the trying part of the journey forward, + and if the animals could speak not a few of them would lay their + illnesses to that long and distressing journey. It is true that + there was generally a little water to be had at the old well, but + this was so deep and so difficult to get at, that, although a party + of three or four animals could be watered there, it was quite + impossible that a largo convoy could be watered. Now a large dépôt + of provisions and forage will be established there, and the journey + will henceforth be divided into five day’s marches, of nearly equal + length. Fresh animals arrive here every day, and the amount of + stores of every description which is poured on shore is really + surprising. Nothing could work better or more evenly than do all + the departments here. There is no confusion of any sort, and the + issue of rations and stores, and the general arrangements, work as + smoothly as at Aldershot. The military bands play morning and + evening, and all is as quiet and according to rule as if we had + been six months and intended to stay six months more upon this + plain, twenty-four hours’ sojourn upon which was declared by our + prophets of evil to be fatal to a European. The only thing in which + we differ from a stationary camp is that there are no parades. + Everyone is at work upon fatigue-duty. Every available man is + ordered off to some work or other, and as we have with pioneers, + coolies, hired natives, and soldiers, four or five thousand men + here, we really ought to make considerable progress with our + railway, which is now the only work of importance, with the + exception of the wooden commissariat <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page153">[pg 153]</span><a name="Pg153" id="Pg153" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>jetty, and the never-ending task of receiving + and landing stores. Up to three days ago there was a piece of work + in progress which was a great joke in camp. I mentioned in a former + letter that the commissariat stores having been flooded, the + engineers built a dam which was intended to keep out the sea, but + which on the first heavy rain kept in the water and caused a + fresh-water flood instead of a salt one. Colonel Wilkins then + resolved upon a work on a large scale; on so large a scale, indeed, + that there were reports through the camp that <span class= + "tei tei-q">“he had determined on raising the whole African coast + three feet,”</span> while others more moderate denied the exactness + of this, and said that he was merely <span class= + "tei tei-q">“seized with a desire to show the Bombay people how + reclamations from the sea ought to be carried out.”</span> The last + report was nearer to the truth than the first, for his intention + was to raise the shore from one jetty to another, a distance of + about 400 yards, the shore to be raised being thirty or forty yards + in width, and needing three feet of additional height at the very + least. The material to be used was sand. Accordingly, about a + thousand men worked for a week with baskets at what their officers + called mudlarking, and had not the sea fortunately interposed, they + might have worked for another six months longer, with the certain + result that the very first time a high tide, accompanied by wind, + set in the work would altogether disappear; sand having—as most + children who have built castles upon the Ramsgate sands are + perfectly aware—an awkward knack of melting away when beaten upon + by the sea. Fortunately, before more was done than making a sort of + bank next to the sea, and when the labour of filling the whole + shore behind this to the same level began to be apparent even to + the most obstinate, the sea rose, came over the dam, <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page154">[pg 154]</span><a name="Pg154" id="Pg154" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>covered the low ground behind three feet + deep, entered the commissariat stores, and, as it could not escape, + did considerably more damage than it would have done had the shore + remained as it was before the labour of a thousand men for a week + was expended upon it.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The rainy + season, like most other things connected with Abyssinia, has turned + out a myth. It was to have come in November, then it was postponed + to December, then the 1st of January was named as the latest time, + and yet, with the exception of one heavy shower, we have had no + rain whatever. The dust is blowing again in perfect clouds. We + taste it in all we eat and in all we drink. Grit is perpetually + between our teeth. As for our hair, what with sea-bathing and what + with dust it is approaching fast to the appearance of a hedgehog’s + back. Were it not for the evening bathe I do not know how we should + get on. A great improvement has been effected in this respect + during the last ten days. The end of the pier is now kept for + officers only, the rest being devoted to the men. This is a great + boon, and makes the end of the pier quite a pleasant place of + assembly of an evening. Everyone is there, and everyone knows + everyone else, so that it forms the grand rendezvous of the day. + Our meeting-room is the sea, our toilet strict undress. I only wish + that the water we use internally were as pleasant as the salt-water + is for bathing, but the fact is, it is almost undrinkable. Why it + is so no one seems to know; but there is no question as to the + fact. It is extremely salt, and has a strong earthy taste in + addition, and occasionally a disagreeable smell. Why it should be + salt I know not, but can only suppose that the condensers are + worked too hard, and that salt-water goes over with the steam. The + earthy flavour and <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page155">[pg + 155]</span><a name="Pg155" id="Pg155" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>unpleasant smell which it sometimes has I + attribute to the fact that the water which comes on shore from the + ships must be bad. I have smelt exactly the same odour in water on + board ship. The bad taste is so strong that it cannot be disguised + or overpowered by the strongest admixture of spirits. By far the + best water here is made by the condenser at the head of the pier, + and this is served out to the European regiments, who are camped + rather nearer to it than the native regiments are. Filters remove + to a certain extent the earthy taste, but they do not alter the + saline. A more serious matter even than the badness of the water is + the fact that the supply has several times within the last ten days + been insufficient, and hundreds of animals have had to go to their + work in the morning, or to their beds at night, without a drop of + water. It is this which lays the foundation of the lung-diseases, + fills our hospitals with sick animals, to say nothing of the + suffering caused to them. When the Scinde Horse, with their + numerous baggage-animals, have moved forward, it is to be hoped + that the naval authorities will be able to supply a sufficiency of + drinkable water for the rest of the camp. The party of engineers + have just begun a work which, when completed, will enable a much + larger amount of stores to be landed daily than can at present be + accomplished. They are driving piles so as to lengthen the pier + some twenty or thirty yards, and to form a pier-head, on all sides + of which lighters and boats can lie alongside to unload instead of + only at one side, as at present. The commissariat wharf is also + making considerable progress, and when this and the new pier-head + are completed, the amount of stores which can be daily landed will + be very large. As it is, it is wonderful what immense quantities of + stores are landed and sent up the pier in the trucks <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page156">[pg 156]</span><a name="Pg156" id="Pg156" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>by the commissariat, quartermaster, + transport train, and engineer departments. Many hands make light + work, and there is abundance of labour here, and a boat comes + alongside, and its contents are emptied and placed upon a + railway-truck in a very few minutes. Were a double line laid down + the pier—which was specially built for it—and two or three + connections or crossings laid down, so that full trucks could go + out, and empty ones come in without waiting for each other, the + capacity of the pier would be vastly greater than it is. Why this + is not done no one seems to know. With the abundance of labour at + hand it might be made in a day without interfering with the working + of the present line. A great improvement has taken place in the + conveyance of the post between this and Senafe. Ponies are in + readiness at the various stations, and the mails are taken up in + two days. Things are in fact getting into order in all the branches + of the service, and with the exception of the water-supply and the + ridiculously-slow progress of the railway, there is little to be + wished for. The Punjaub Pioneers, whose arrival I mentioned in my + last letter, are an uncommonly fine body of men. Their loose cotton + dress and dark claret-brown turbans, and their picks and shovels + slung across their shoulders, in addition to their arms and + accoutrements, give them the appearance of a corps ready for any + work; and this they have quite borne out. They have brought a + number of ponies with them, and are fit for any service. The corps + which have thus far arrived from Bengal and Madras have certainly + done very great credit to these Presidencies, and make it a matter + of regret that Bombay should have endeavoured to keep as far as + possible the monopoly of an immense expedition like the present in + her own hands. The Lahore division of the mule-<span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page157">[pg 157]</span><a name="Pg157" id="Pg157" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>train arrived here in the most perfect + order. The saddles, accoutrements, &c., arrived with the mules, + together with the proper complement of drivers, complete with warm + clothing, &c. This division were therefore ready to take their + load and to march up the very day after their landing, without the + slightest confusion or delay. Of course the animals from Egypt and + the Mediterranean could not arrive in this state of order, but + there was no reason whatever why the Bombay division should not + have arrived in a state of complete efficiency, instead of the + animals coming by one ship, the drivers in another, the officers + and inspectors in a third, and the accoutrements and clothing + scattered over a whole fleet. Madras, too, has done well, although + her contingent is a very small one. The Madras Sappers and Miners + have greatly distinguished themselves, and the Madras dhoolie + corps, which was raised and organised by Captain Smith, of the + commissariat, has turned out of the very greatest utility. They + have worked admirably, and have been quite willing to do any work + to which they were set, however foreign it might be to the purpose + for which they were engaged. Numbers of them have been transferred + to the transport train; and, indeed, so useful has the corps + proved, that orders have been sent to Madras for another of equal + strength.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had quite a + pretty sight here the other night. The Pacha on board the Turkish + frigate, which with two small consorts is lying in the harbour, + invited Sir Robert Napier and the other generals, with their + respective staffs, and the commanding officers of regiments and + departments, to dinner. The frigate was illuminated with hundreds + of lanterns hung along her shrouds and yards. The dinner was spread + on the quarter-deck, which had awnings both roof and sides, so that + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page158">[pg 158]</span><a name= + "Pg158" id="Pg158" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>it formed a perfect + tent. The dinner was very good, and the fittings and ornaments of + the table admirable. The sight, to men who had been for the last + month eating off pewter and drinking out of tin cups, of a pile of + porcelain plates, which were evidently some of Minton’s or + Copeland’s best work, would be almost tantalising, and the dinner + was enjoyed proportionately to its being so exceptional a + circumstance. There was no making of speeches or drinking of + healths, but the men-of-war and other boats as they left the + frigate with their guests gave a hearty cheer to the Pacha for his + hospitality. There is still a great want of boats in the harbour, + and it is most difficult to get out to a ship to see a friend or to + buy stores. Many of the ships are not unloading, and the men have + nothing to do. It would be an excellent plan to authorise some of + these vessels to send boats to shore to ply for hire, at a regular + tariff. The men would like it, as they would gain good pay, and it + would be a great boon to us on shore.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There is no news + from the front, with the exception of that brought in just as the + last mail was leaving, namely, that Theodore was moving towards + Magdala, and that the Waagshum with his army was watching him. As + Waagshum had neither the force nor the courage to hold the passes + between Debra Tabor and Magdala—which, according to all accounts, a + hundred men might easily hold against a thousand similarly armed—I + do not think that the news that he was watching Theodore was of any + more importance than if it had been <span class="tei tei-q">“a + troop of baboons are watching Theodore.”</span> I have not the + least faith in these barbarian allies of ours. They will do + nothing, and will demand great presents for it. Except that it + amuses our <span class="tei tei-q">“political agent,”</span> I do + not <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page159">[pg 159]</span><a name= + "Pg159" id="Pg159" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>see that the + slightest possible utility can come from these native chiefs. The + only king of any real importance is the King of Tigre, upon whose + territory we are already encamped at Senafe. I hear that the + purport of the message brought in by the ambassador or envoy who + arrived before Christmas was to request that an envoy might be sent + to him to enter into negotiations, and to arrange for a meeting + between himself and the Commander-in-chief. In consequence, Major + Grant, of Nile celebrity, goes forward to-morrow, with Mr. + Munzinger, our consul at Massowah, who acts as political adviser + and interpreter. They will, I understand, go on from Senafe with a + small guard of eight or ten cavalry. They will call upon the King + of Tigre as official envoys, and will assure him of our friendship, + and inform him that Sir Robert Napier is anxious to see him, and + will meet him at Attegrat in a short time. I have now finished the + news of the week, with the exception only of an adventure which + befell Captain Pottinger, of the quartermaster’s department. He was + ordered to reconnoitre the passes leading from Senafe down to the + head of Annesley Bay. He started with eight men, and had proceeded + about forty miles when he was met by a party of armed Shohos, 100 + strong. They ordered him to return to Senafe under pain of an + instant attack. Of course Captain Pottinger, with his eight men, + would have had no difficulty in defeating the 100 Shohos, but had + blood been shed serious complications might have ensued, and he + very wisely determined that it would be better to retire, as his + mission was not one of extreme importance. This little affair is of + itself of no consequence, but is worth notice as being the first + time since our arrival here that the natives have in any way + interfered with an armed force, however <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page160">[pg 160]</span><a name="Pg160" id="Pg160" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>small. In my next letter I hope to be able to + speak of at least a probability of a forward movement.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc36" id="toc36"></a> <a name="pdf37" id="pdf37"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Zulla, January 22d. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Only three days + have elapsed since I last wrote to you, but those three days have + completely changed the prospects of things here. Then a move + forward appeared to be an event which, we hoped, might happen + somewhere in the dim future, but which, with the reports that + provisions were scarcely accumulating at Senafe, but were being + consumed as fast as they were taken up, seemed a very distant + matter indeed. Now all this is changed, and <span class= + "tei tei-q">“forward”</span> is the cry. The 25th Native Infantry + are already on the move, the 4th, <span class="tei tei-q">“King’s + Own,”</span> are to go in a day or two, and the 3d Native Infantry + are to follow as soon as possible. Sir Robert Napier goes up + to-morrow or next day. Whether he will remain up there, and go + forward at once, or whether he will return here again for a short + time, is a moot point. I incline to the former opinion. From what I + hear, and from what I see in the English papers, pressure is being + strongly applied to Sir Robert Napier to move forward. Now, with + the greatest deference for the home authorities and for the + leader-writers upon the London press, I submit that they are + forming opinions upon matters on which no one who has not visited + this place is competent to judge. No one, I repeat, can form any + opinion of the difficulties with which the Commander-in-chief has + to contend here. The first want is the want of water, the second + the want of forage, the third the want of transport. Twenty-eight + thousand animals were to have been here by the end of December; not + more than half <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page161">[pg + 161]</span><a name="Pg161" id="Pg161" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>that number have arrived, and of the 12,000 + which have been landed 2000 are dead, and another 2000 unfit for + work. The remainder are doing quite as much as could be expected of + them, and are working well and smoothly; but 8000 are not + sufficient to convey the provisions and stores of an army up + seventy miles, and to carry their own forage as well. That is, they + might convey quite sufficient for their supply from day to day, but + they cannot accumulate sufficient provisions for the onward + journey. The difficulties are simply overwhelming, and I do not + know of a position of greater responsibility than that of Sir + Robert Napier at the present moment. If he keeps the troops down + here upon the plain, the increasing heat may at any moment produce + an epidemic; and, in addition to this, the English public will + ferment with indignation. On the other hand, if he pushes on with a + few thousand men, he does so at enormous risk. He may take any + number of laden animals with them; but if we get, as in all + probability we shall get, into a country where for days no forage + is obtainable, what is to become of the animals? It is not the + enemy we fear—the enemy is contemptible; it is the distance, and + the questions of provisions and transport. If a column goes on, it + cuts itself loose from its base. With the exception of the laden + animals, which start with it, it can receive no supplies whatever + from the rear; it must be self-supporting. When Sherman left + Atalanta he travelled through one of the most fertile countries in + the world. We, on the contrary, go through one series of ravines + and passes, and although there are many intervening places where we + may count upon buying cattle, it is by no means certain that we can + procure forage sufficient to last the animals across the next + sterile pass. Altogether, it is a most difficult business, + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page162">[pg 162]</span><a name= + "Pg162" id="Pg162" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and one where the + wisest would hesitate upon giving any opinion as to the best course + to be pursued. I am sure General Napier will push forward if he + sees any chance of a favourable issue; and if he does not, he will + remain where he is in spite of any impatient criticism on the part + of those who cannot guess at one tithe of his difficulties. Since + writing the above I have received reliable information that the + wing of the 33d will move forward to Antalo (a hundred miles in + advance) in a few days. This is palpable evidence that at any rate + we are going to feel our way forward. Personally I need not say how + pleased I am, for living with the thermometer from 104° to 112°, in + a tent, and surrounded and covered with a fine dust, existence can + scarcely be called a pleasure here.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Sir Robert + Napier is making great efforts to reduce the weight to be carried + forward, and in this he is, without doubt, highly to be commended. + The great curse of this army is its enormous number of followers. + European regiments have quite a little host of sweepers, Lascars, + water-bearers, &c. &c. Even the native regiments have a + number of followers. Had English troops direct from England been + employed, the weight to be carried would have been very much less + than it is at present, and the men, being accustomed to shift and + work for themselves, would have been more handy. It is said that + the soldier’s kit, now very heavy, is to be reduced; but at present + the efforts are being directed almost exclusively against officers. + An officer, whatever his rank, is to be allowed one mule only, and + there is some rumour that even that allowance is to be reduced. I + do not hesitate to say that that amount is insufficient. If an + officer had his mule merely to carry his baggage it would be ample, + but this <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page163">[pg + 163]</span><a name="Pg163" id="Pg163" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>is + very far from being the case. On it he has to carry his groom’s + luggage and warm clothes, and those of his body-servant. He has to + carry his cooking-utensils, &c., and the rugs, &c., for his + horse; consequently he will be lucky if forty or fifty pounds + remains for his own kit. This is not a campaign for a week or a + month; it may, in all human probability will, last for a year, + perhaps longer, and he has to carry clothes, bedding, &c., for + a hot and a cold climate. It is simply impossible to do this in the + limits of fifty pounds. Regimental officers are ordered to send + back their servants to Bombay, only one to be kept for every three + officers. Of course such officers will be able to get most of the + work they require performed for them by their own men; but, at the + same time, it is a hardship both to officers and servants. In all + cases an officer has made an advance of from two to three months’ + pay to his servants; in all cases he has provided them with warm + clothing; and it is very hard that he should lose all this, and be + obliged to turn servants, whom he may have had for years, adrift at + a moment’s notice.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc38" id="toc38"></a> <a name="pdf39" id="pdf39"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Senafe, January 31st. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">After the heat + and dust of Zulla this place is delightful. The heat of the day is + tempered by a cool wind, and the really cold nights brace us up + thoroughly. Above all, we have no dust. We are clean. One has to + stop for a month upon the Plain of Zulla thoroughly to appreciate + the pleasure of feeling clean. Here, too, there is water—not only + to drink, but to wash in. After being dust-grimed and unable to + wash, the sensation of being free from dust and enabled to wash at + pleasure is delightful. Having with great diffi<span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page164">[pg 164]</span><a name="Pg164" id="Pg164" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>culty succeeded in purchasing + baggage-animals, I started early from Zulla, and arrived at + Koomaylo in plenty of time to be able to examine the wonderful + changes which have taken place there in the last three weeks. There + were then some hundreds of animals there; now there are thousands. + The lines of the mules and ponies extend in every direction; + besides which are bullocks, camels, and elephants. Koomaylo is + indeed the head-quarters of the transport-train animals. The camel + divisions are here. They go down to the landing-place one day, are + fed there, and come back loaded next day, getting their water only + here. The elephants work in the same way, but they have to be + watered at each end of their journey. The bullock division is here, + and works upwards to Rayray Guddy, three days’ march, taking up + stores and bringing down Senafe grass when there is any to spare. + Four mule and pony divisions are here; these, like the bullocks, + work to Rayray Guddy and back. The sick animals of these six + divisions are also here, and number nearly twelve hundred, + including camels. The watering of all these animals morning and + evening is a most interesting sight. There are long troughs, into + which water is pumped continuously from the little American pumps. + The different animals have each their allotted troughs. As they + arrive they are formed in lines, and as one line has drunk the next + advances. There is no bustle or confusion, for there is an ample + supply of water for all. The water is very clear and good, but is + quite warm, and most of the animals object to it the first time of + tasting. Although the mules are in better condition than they were + some time since, very many of them are still very weak, especially + those that have been stationed at Rayray Guddy, where they get + no<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page165">[pg 165]</span><a name= + "Pg165" id="Pg165" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>thing to eat but the + coarse Senafe hay, and have had very frequently to go without even + this. The greatest difficulty of the transport train at present is + most unquestionably in its drivers. The greater part were, as I + have before said, collected haphazard from the scum of Smyrna, + Beyrout, Alexandria, Cairo, and Suez. They are entirely without any + idea of discipline, are perfectly reckless as to the Government + stores, and are brutally cruel to their animals. By cruel, I do not + mean actively cruel, but passively cruel. They do not thrash their + mules much, they are too indifferent to the pace at which they + travel to put themselves to the trouble of hurrying them. But they + are horribly cruel in a passive way. They will continue to work + their animals with the most terrible sore backs. They will never + take the trouble to loosen the chain which forms part of the Bombay + headgear, and which, unless it is carefully watched, will cut into + the flesh under the chin, and in hundreds of cases has done so. + They will jerk at the rein of their draught-mules until the clumsy + bit raises terrible swellings in the mouth; they will say no word + about the ailments of their beasts until they can absolutely go no + single step further, and then, instead of taking them to the + hospital lines, they turn them adrift, and report upon their + arrival at night that the mules have died upon the way. There is, + however, far less of this going on now than formerly, for a mounted + inspector accompanies each train, and many of the large convoys + have officers in charge of them. But not only for their cruelty and + carelessness are these Egyptian, Levant, and Turk drivers + objectionable; they are constantly mutinous. I saw the other day at + Zulla a party of fifty who had arrived a few days before + deliberately refuse to work. They did not <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page166">[pg 166]</span><a name="Pg166" id="Pg166" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>like the place, and they would go back. + Everything was tried with them; they were kept upon less than half + rations and water for days, but they sturdily refused to do + anything. The whole party might of course have been flogged, but + that would not have made them work; and the first day that they + went out with mules they would have thrown their burdens off and + deserted with their animals. I was present when Colonel Holland, + director-general of transport, endeavoured to persuade them to + work. They steadily refused, and even when he promised that they + should be sent back to Suez by the first ship, they refused to do + any work whatever until the time for embarkation. As they stood in + a circle round him, some gesticulating, but most standing in surly + obstinacy, I thought I had never seen such a collection of thorough + ruffians in my life—the picked scoundrels of the most lawless + population on earth. I stopped one day at Koomaylo, and then came + rapidly up the pass. The road is now really a very fair road for + the whole distance, with the exception of four miles between + Koomaylo and lower Sooro. This piece of road has not, by some + strange oversight, been yet touched; but I hear that the 25th + Native Infantry, one wing of which regiment is at Koomaylo, are to + be set to work at it at once. It is along the flat of the valley, + and only requires smoothing, and removing boulders, so that a few + days will see this, the last piece of the road, completed. For the + rest of the distance the road is everywhere as good as a bye-road + in an out-of-the-way district at home. In many places it is very + much better. Up the passes at Sooro and Rayray Guddy it is really + an excellent road. The vast boulders, which I described upon the + occasion of my first passing through it, are either + shat<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page167">[pg 167]</span><a name= + "Pg167" id="Pg167" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>tered to pieces by + blasting, or are surmounted by the road being raised by a gradual + incline. Too much praise cannot be given to the Bombay Sappers and + Miners, who have carried out these works. The same party, after + finishing these passes, have now just completed a broad zigzag road + from the bottom of the pass up to the Senafe plain. This was before + the most trying part of the whole journey, now it is a road up + which one might drive in a carriage and pair, and which reminds one + of the last zigzags upon the summits of the Mount Cenis and St. + Gothard passes. The whole of the works I have described are at once + samples of skilful engineering and of unremitting exertion. No one + who passed through six weeks ago would have believed that so much + could possibly be effected in so short a time. Next only to the + Bombay Sappers credit must be given to the Beloochee regiment, one + wing of which under Major Beville at Sooro, and the other under + Captain Hogg at Rayray Guddy, have made the road along those places + where blasting was not required.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Beloochees + are a remarkably fine regiment, and work with a willingness and + good-will which are beyond praise. Great regret is expressed on all + sides that they have not been selected to accompany the 33d + regiment upon its advance, especially as they are armed with + Enfield rifles.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Beloochees + are deservedly one of the most popular regiments in the Indian + service, and there is an <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">esprit de corps</span></span>—a feeling of + personal attachment between men and officers, and a pride on the + part of the latter to belong to so good a regiment—which the + present extraordinary and unsatisfactory state of the Indian + service renders altogether out of the question in the regular + native regiments. There an <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page168">[pg 168]</span><a name="Pg168" id="Pg168" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>officer forms no part of the regiment. He + belongs to it for the time being, but if he goes home for leave, he + will upon his return be posted in all probability to some other + regiment. In this way all <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">esprit de corps</span></span>, all traces of + mutual good feeling between men and officers, is entirely done away + with. How such a system could ever have been devised, and how, once + devised, it has ever been allowed to continue, is one of those + extraordinary things which no civilian, and no military man under + the rank of colonel, can understand.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the station + of Sooro and Rayray Guddy little change has been effected since I + last described them, and about the same number of men are stationed + there; but at Undel Wells, or Guinea-fowl Plain, as it was formerly + called, the place was changed beyond all recognition. When last I + was there it was a quiet valley, with a few Shohos watering their + cattle at a scanty and dirty well. My own party was the only + evidence of the British expedition. Now this was all changed. No + city in the days of the gold-mining rush in Australia ever sprung + into existence more suddenly. Here are long lines of + transport-animals, here are commissariat-tents and stores, here a + camp of the pioneers. The whole of the trees and brushwood have + been cleared away. Here is the watering-place, with its troughs for + animals and its tubs for men—the one supplied by one of Bastier’s + chain-pumps, a gigantic specimen of which used to pour out a + cataract of water for the delectation of the visitors to the Paris + Exhibition—the other by one of the little American pumps. + Everything works as quietly and easily as if the age of the station + was to be counted by months instead of by days.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I found that the + telegraph is making rapid progress. The wire now works as far as + Sooro, and is also erected down<span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page169">[pg 169]</span><a name="Pg169" id="Pg169" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>wards from Senafe to Rayray Guddy. It is a + very fine copper wire, and in the midst of the lofty perpendicular + rocks of the Sooro Pass it looks, as it goes in long stretches from + angle to angle, with the sun shining bright upon it, like the + glistening thread of some great spider.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It would have + been long since laid to Senafe, but the greatest difficulty has + occurred in obtaining poles, all those sent from Bombay having been + thrown overboard to lighten the vessel in which they were shipped + upon an occasion of her running aground. It has been found + impossible to procure the poles for the remaining distance; and I + hear that a wire coated with india-rubber is to be laid a few + inches under the soil.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Senafe itself is + but little altered. The 10th Native Infantry are still in their old + camp. The 3d Native Cavalry have gone out about eight miles from + here to a spot called Goose Plain, and the sappers and miners are + encamped in the old lines of the 3d. The 33d lines are in a plain + close to, but a little beyond, the old camp, and concealed from + view until one has passed it.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On my arrival in + camp I found that a deep gloom hung over everyone, and I heard the + sad news that Colonel Dunn, the commanding officer of the 33d, had + the day before accidentally shot himself when out shooting. The + native servant who alone was with him reports that he himself was + at the moment stooping to pour out some water, that he heard the + report of a gun, and turning round saw his master stagger back, and + then sink into a sitting position with the blood streaming from his + breast. The man instantly ran back to camp, a distance of five + miles, for assistance, and surgeons at once galloped off with + bandages, &c., followed by dhoolie <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page170">[pg 170]</span><a name="Pg170" id="Pg170" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>wallahs, with a dhoolie to carry him back to + camp. When the surgeons arrived, they found Colonel Dunn lying on + his back, dead. His flask was open by his side, his cap pulled over + his face. He had bled to death in a few minutes after the accident. + It is supposed that the gun was at full cock, and that the slight + jar of putting the butt to the ground must have let the hammer + down. There are very few men who could have been less spared than + Colonel Dunn; none more deeply regretted. As an officer he was one + of the most rising men in the service, and had he lived would + probably have gained its highest honours and position. He was with + the 11th Hussars in the Balaclava charge, and when the men were + asked to select the man who in the whole regiment was most worthy + of the Victoria Cross, they unanimously named Lieutenant Dunn. + Never was the Victoria Cross placed on the breast of a more gallant + soldier. When the 100th regiment was raised in Canada, he enrolled + a very large number of men, and was gazetted its major. After + attaining the rank of lieutenant-colonel he exchanged into the 33d, + of which, at the time of this sad accident, he was full colonel, + and was next on the list for his brigadier-generalship. He was only + thirty-five years of age, the youngest colonel in the British + service, and would, in all human probability, have been a + brigadier-general before he was thirty-six. Known as a dashing + officer, distinguished for his personal bravery, a colonel at an + age when other men are captains, there was no rank or position in + the army which he might not have confidently been predicted to + attain, and his loss is a loss to the whole British army. But not + less than as a soldier, do all who knew poor Dunn regret him as a + man. He was the most popular of officers. Unassuming, frank, + kind-hearted in the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page171">[pg + 171]</span><a name="Pg171" id="Pg171" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>extreme, a delightful companion, and a warm + friend—none met him who were not irresistibly attracted by him. He + was a man essentially to be loved. In his regiment his loss is + irreparable, and as they stood beside his lonely grave at the foot + of the rock of Senafe, it is no disgrace to their manhood to say + that there were few dry eyes amongst either officers or men. He was + buried, in accordance with a wish he had once expressed, in his + uniform, and Wolfe’s lines on the burial of Sir John Moore will + apply almost word for word to <span class="tei tei-q">“the grave + where <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">our</span></span> hero we buried.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Sir Robert + Napier arrived here with his personal staff the day before + yesterday, having been five days <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">en + route</span></span>, spending one day carefully examining each + station, inquiring, as is his custom, into every detail, and seeing + how each department worked. Never was a commander more careful in + this inquiry into every detail than is Sir Robert Napier. Nothing + escapes him. He sees everything, hears what everyone has to say, + and then decides firmly upon what is to be done. The army have + rightly an unbounded confidence in him. He is essentially the man + for an expedition of this sort. His reputation for dash and + gallantry is well known, but at the same time he has a prudence and + sagacity which will fit him for the extremely difficult position in + which he is placed. If it is possible to make a dash into Central + Abyssinia, undoubtedly he will do it; if, on the other hand, it + cannot be done without extraordinary risk and difficulty—if it is + next to impossible—no amount of outcry at home will drive him to + attempt it.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is believed + here that, moved by the home authorities, a rapid dash is on the + point of being made, and bets are freely exchanged that the + expedition will be over by the 1st of <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page172">[pg 172]</span><a name="Pg172" id="Pg172" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>April. For myself, I confess that even in the + face of the approaching advance of the first division I have no + anticipations whatever that such will be the case. Sir Robert, I + believe, does mean to try. Urged on to instant action from home, he + will despatch two or three regiments, with cavalry and artillery, + and with the lightest possible baggage. But if the country at all + resembles that we have already traversed, if it is one tithe as + difficult and deficient in food and forage as Abyssinian travellers + have told us, I am convinced that the column will have to come to a + halt, and wait for supplies, and will have to proceed in a regular + military way. I hope that I may be mistaken; I sincerely hope that + the advancing column may meet with no insuperable obstacles; but, + remembering that it is by no means certain that when we get to + Magdala we shall find Theodore and the captives there, I am far + more inclined to name nine months than three as the probable time + which will elapse before we have attained the objects of our + expedition,—that is, always supposing that Theodore does not + deliver up the captives as we advance. It is quite certain that the + advancing column must depend entirely upon themselves. They will be + able to receive no supplies from the rear, for other regiments will + take the place of those that go on from Senafe, and the transport + train cannot do much more than keep Senafe supplied with provisions + at present, even supplemented as their efforts are by those of + thousands of the little native cattle. Indeed, had it not been for + the quantity of stores brought up by the natives on their own + cattle, there would not have been sufficient stores at Senafe to + have supplied the troops who now move on. As some 1500 animals will + be withdrawn from the strength of the transport train to march with + the advance brigade, it is <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page173">[pg 173]</span><a name="Pg173" id="Pg173" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>evident that the stores sent up for some time + will not be much more than sufficient to supply Senafe, and that no + animals will be available to send on fresh supply to the front. The + brigade that advances, then, must depend entirely upon itself. It + must not hope for any assistance whatever. To say the least, it is + an expedition upon the like of which few bodies of men ever + started. We have 330 miles to go, across a country known to be + exceptionally mountainous and difficult. We have already learned + that, with the exception of cattle, the country will provide us + with no food whatever. The kings or chiefs through whose territory + we march will be but neutral, and even if actively friendly, which + they certainly are not, could afford us no practical assistance. To + crown all, it may be that towards the end of the march we may have + to fight our way through difficult passes, defended by men who, if + ill-armed, are at least warlike and brave. History hardly records + an instance of such an accumulation of difficulties. Pizarro’s + conquest of Mexico, perhaps, ranks foremost among enterprises of + this sort, but Pizarro fought his way through the richest country + in the world, and could never have had difficulties as to his + supplies. There is no question about our conquering—the great + question is as to our eating. If we were always certain of finding + forage our difficulties would be light in comparison. Unfortunately + our mules must eat as well as we, and we know that we shall have + long passes where no forage whatever is procurable. If the mules + were certain of their food it would be a mere arithmetical + question—how many mules are required to convey food for 2500 men + for forty days? As it stands now, we have no data to go upon, and + whether our present advance succeeds or not is almost entirely + dependent upon whether we <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page174">[pg + 174]</span><a name="Pg174" id="Pg174" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>can obtain forage for our animals. If we can + do this, we shall get to Magdala; but if we find that we have to + pass long distances without forage, it becomes an impossibility, + and we must fall back upon the regular military method of forming + dépôts and moving on stage by stage. In this latter case there is + no predicting the probable limit of the expedition.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">General Napier + is taking the most stringent but necessary steps for reducing the + baggage to a minimum. No officer, whatever his rank, is to be + allowed more than one mule. Three officers are to sleep in each + bell-tent, and one mule is allowed for two bell-tents. One mule is + allowed to each three officers for cooking-utensils and + mess-stores. Only one native servant is to be allowed for each + three officers. No officers, except those entitled to horses in + England, are to be mounted; they may, however, if they choose, take + their own horse as a pack-animal instead of the mule to which they + are entitled, in which case a pack-saddle will be issued to them. + Similar reductions are being made among the regimental baggage and + followers. The latter, whose name was legion, and who were at least + as numerous as the fighting-men, are to be greatly curtailed. The + Lascars, sweepers, water-bearers, &c. are either to be sent + back, or to be turned into grass-cutters for the cavalry and + baggage-animals. The European soldiers are to be limited to 35lb. + weight of baggage, and part of this they will have to carry for + themselves. All this is as it should be. In India it is policy as + well as humanity to take every possible care of the British + soldier. He is a very expensive machine, and although, as was found + during the mutiny, he can work in the sun during an emergency + without his health suffer<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page175">[pg + 175]</span><a name="Pg175" id="Pg175" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>ing, still at ordinary times it is far better + to relieve him as far as possible from all duties whatever save + drill and guard. Labour and food are so cheap in India that the + expense of this host of camp-followers is comparatively slight. + Here it is altogether different. It was known long before we + started that the ground would be exceptionally difficult, that the + difficulties of transport would be enormous, and that every mouth + extra to be fed was of consequence; and yet in spite of this the + European regiments arrived here with little short of 500 followers; + and the native regiments have also hosts of hangers-on. As I have + said, all this is now very properly to be done away with. The army + will march as nearly as possible with European kit and following, + and the transport train will be relieved of the incubus of + thousands of useless mouths to be provided for. In speaking of the + transport train, I should mention that Sir Robert Napier is in no + way accountable for its absurd organisation and consequent break + down. The Bombay authorities are alone responsible. When the + expedition was first seriously talked of in August last, Sir Robert + Napier drew up a scheme for a transport train, which I am assured + by those who have seen it was excellent. This he sent in on the 23d + of August. No notice was taken of it until the middle of September, + when Sir Robert was told that a scheme would be prepared by the + commissary-general. Another precious month elapsed, and then in the + middle of October the present absurd scheme was hatched. It was + sent to Sir Robert for his opinion, and he returned it with the + memorandum that it was perfectly impracticable. The authorities + persisted, however, in the teeth of his opinion, in having their + plan carried out; and it was only upon Sir Robert’s repeated and + earnest remon<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page176">[pg + 176]</span><a name="Pg176" id="Pg176" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>strances that they consented to increase the + number of European inspectors and native overlookers to the present + ridiculously-insufficient number. The result has abundantly proved + the wisdom of the General, and the fatuity of the men who would + interfere in every detail, and overrule the opinion of the man to + whom everything was to be intrusted from the day of his leaving + Bombay. Events have abundantly proved the error of intrusting the + management of the expedition to civilians and men of bureaux.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">And now, as to + the advance brigade. Neither its composition nor its date of + advance are yet known for certain. The Chief is not a man who says + anything about his plans until the moment arrives when the + necessary orders are to be given. It will probably comprise the + whole or part of the 33d regiment, the 4th regiment—a portion of + which is expected to arrive here to-day—the 10th Native Infantry, + the Beloochees, the Punjaub Pioneers, the Bombay Sappers and + Miners, the 3d Native Cavalry, and the Scinde Horse. Of these, two + companies of the 33d regiment, and two of the 10th Native Infantry, + are already at Attegrat, thirty-five miles in advance. Three more + companies of each regiment started to-day. Brigadier-general + Collings goes on with them, and will for the present command the + advance. Part of the Pioneers are here, as are the Bombay Sappers. + These go on in a day or two to make the road near and beyond + Attegrat, the intermediate part having been already made by the 33d + regiment. The Scinde Horse are some eight or nine miles away, and + near them are the 3d Native Cavalry. I have omitted in my list of + troops for the advance brigade to name the mountain trains, and + three guns of the artillery, which will be carried by elephants. + These animals are ex<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page177">[pg + 177]</span><a name="Pg177" id="Pg177" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>pected here in a day or two. I should be sorry + to meet them on horseback in a narrow part of the pass, and I + expect that they will cause terrible confusion among the + transport-animals, for they have all a perfect horror of the + elephant—that is, the first time that they see one. When they get + to learn that he, like themselves, is a subjugated animal, they + cease to feel any terror of him.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There is one + pleasing change which has taken place since I last left Senafe, and + which I have not yet spoken of. I mentioned that Sir Charles + Staveley, when he was up here, ordered huts to be built for the + muleteers by the 10th Native Infantry. These are now completed. + They are long, leafy bowers, running along in regular lines between + the rows of animals. They are very well and neatly built—so + regular, indeed, that it is difficult at a short distance to + believe that they are really built of boughs. They may not be as + warm as houses, but they keep off the wind, and afford a great + protection to the muleteers at night. The division here, that of + Captain Griffiths, is the first which landed. It is now in very + good order, and will accompany the advance brigade. The disease up + here is, I am happy to say, on the decrease. The sick animals are + out at Goose Plain with the artillery.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Yesterday, in + the afternoon, there was a parade of the 33d, and 10th Native + Infantry; small parties of the Royal Engineers, of 3d Native + Cavalry, and of Scinde Horse were also present. Sir Robert Napier + rode along the line, and the regiments then marched past. The + little party of the 3d Cavalry came first, followed by the Scinde + Horse, and offering as strong a contrast to each other as could be + well imagined. The one was upon the European, the other upon the + Asiatic model. The Scinde horsemen were much the <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page178">[pg 178]</span><a name="Pg178" id="Pg178" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>heavier and more powerful men; and + although they have not the military seat or the dashing air of the + 3d, they had in their dark dresses, and quiet, determined look, the + appearance of men who would be most formidable antagonists. Their + horses, although ugly, are strong; and in a charge, it was the + opinion of many of those who were looking on, that they would be + much more than a match for their more showy rivals. The Scinde + Horse are more discussed than any regiment out here; and, indeed, + it is so famous a regiment, and is always stationed so much upon + the frontiers, that its coming was looked forward to with + considerable curiosity. Its appearance is certainly against it; + that is, its horses are very ugly animals; but this is not the + fault of the regiment, for its station is so far in Northern India + that it cannot procure, except at very great cost, any but the + native horses. I believe that this is almost the only objection + which can be urged against the regiment; the men are remarkably + fine; indeed, as I before stated, they are too heavy for cavalry. + They are, as a whole, drawn from a much higher and wealthier class + of natives than the men of any other regiment; they enlist in the + Scinde Horse just as a young nobleman takes a commission in the + Guards. There is a very great feeling of <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">esprit de + corps</span></span>, and mutual good-feeling between officers and + men; and all are proud of their regiment. The uniform, as I have + said in a previous letter, is a long, dark-green coat, with red + turban. It is the men’s own choice, and is quite an Eastern + uniform; their long curved sabres are also quite Asiatic. The men + provide their own carriage; and from this point the transport train + will not be called upon to assist them in any way beyond carrying + their provisions. I alluded before to the wretched ponies + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page179">[pg 179]</span><a name= + "Pg179" id="Pg179" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>they brought with + them; but the case has been explained to me, and there is no blame + to be attached to the corps on this score. The men were provided + with camels to carry their baggage, and were told that these would + do for Abyssinia. While upon their march down to the sea-coast a + telegram arrived, stating that camels would not do; and the men + were obliged to sell their camels at a sacrifice, and to buy any + ponies they could get. I speak of the men doing so, because the + horses, &c., are not the property of the Government, but of the + men, or rather of some among the men.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Scinde Horse + are, and always were, an irregular cavalry, upon what is called the + <span class="tei tei-q">“sillidar”</span> system. Government + contracts with the men to find their own horses, accoutrements, + arms, food, and carriage. This is the irregular cavalry system, + upon which all native cavalry regiments are now placed. The sum + paid is thirty rupees a month. Here, however, only twenty rupees + are to be paid, as Government finds food and forage. The advantages + of this system for frontier-work are enormous. The men are + scattered over a wide extent of country in tens and twelves, and it + would be manifestly impossible to have a series of commissariat + stations to supply them. Whether the system is a good one for + regiments stationed for months or years in a large garrison town is + a very moot question, and one upon which there is an immense + difference of opinion. These regiments would have no occasion for + carriage. If they had to move to another town, it would be cheaper + for them to send their baggage in carts than to keep up a + sufficient baggage-train. When, therefore, the order to march on + service comes, there are no means of transport. The 3d Native + Cavalry are exactly a case in point. Four years ago they were + changed from a <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page180">[pg + 180]</span><a name="Pg180" id="Pg180" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>regular to an irregular cavalry regiment; but, + like all regiments, the 3d had its traditions, and stuck to them. + They adhere to their old uniform and equipments, and are, at a + short distance, undistinguishable from a European hussar regiment. + They pay extreme attention to their drill, and are to all intents + and purposes a regular cavalry. They are mounted on excellent + horses, and are certainly wonderfully-cheap soldiers at three + pounds a month, including everything. But they have been long + stationed at Poonah, and consequently had no occasion to purchase + baggage-animals, and came on here without them. When it was found + that the regiment had arrived here without baggage-animals, there + was, of course, considerable angry feeling in the official mind; + and had it not been that the animals were dying in the plain, and + that no other cavalry regiment was at hand to go up with the + advance brigade, it is probable that they would have been kept in + the rear of the army. However, they were badly wanted, and so + carriage was given to them. I have already spoken in the highest + terms of their bearing and efficiency. There is one point, however, + in the sillidar system which strikes me as being particularly + objectionable. It is not always with the men themselves that this + contract is made; it is with the native officers. Some of the men + do supply their own horses, &c.; but the native officers each + contract to supply so many men and horses complete, buying the + horses and accoutrements, and paying the men ten rupees a month. + This, I cannot help thinking, is an unmixed evil. The man has two + masters—the man who pays him, and the Government he serves. This + evil was carried to a great extent in the days before the mutiny; + and I have heard a case of a regiment at that time of which almost + the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page181">[pg 181]</span><a name= + "Pg181" id="Pg181" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>whole of the horses + and men were then owned by one native officer. Had that man been + hostile to the Government, he might have taken off the whole + regiment. Efforts have since been made to put a stop to this + excessive contracting, and no officer is now allowed to own more + than six of the horses. It appears to me that it should be + altogether done away with, and that each man should find his own + horse.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">But I have + wandered very far away from the parade-ground at Senafe. After + marching past the regiments formed in close order, the General then + addressed a few words to each. To Major Pritchard of the Engineers + he said how glad he was to have his own corps with him again, and + that he hoped some day to employ them to blow down the gates of + Magdala. To the 33d he said a few words complimenting them upon + their efficiency, and regretting that they would not be led by the + gallant officer whose loss he and they deplored. The General then + addressed the 10th Native Infantry, complimenting them upon their + conduct and efficiency. Sir Robert spoke in Hindoostanee, a + language of which my knowledge is unfortunately confined to about + eight words; none of these occurred in the speech, and I am + therefore unable to give the text. The regiments which go on are + delighted at the prospect of a move, and the 10th Native Infantry + cheered lustily as they marched off with their band at their head. + Fresh troops arrive as fast as others move on. While I have been + writing this a portion of the 4th King’s Own have marched in, as + also have the mule-battery with the light rifled guns from + Woolwich. The most important, however, of to-day’s arrivals has + been that of a hundred bullock-carts. A string of camels has also + come in, as I can tell by the lugubrious bellowings and + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page182">[pg 182]</span><a name= + "Pg182" id="Pg182" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>roar which at present + fills the air. The pass is therefore proved to be practicable, and + the camels and bullock-carts will be a great assistance to us. The + natives must be astonished at seeing this string of carts coming up + a place which all their tradition must represent as almost + impassable even for their own cattle, which, like goats, can go + almost anywhere. Their ideas about us must altogether be rather + curious; and as we know by experience how a story expands and + alters as it goes, the reports which must reach the extreme + confines of Abyssinia must be something astounding. Even here they + are not contented with the facts. There is a report among them that + the cattle we are buying up are intended to be food for a train of + elephants we have coming to help us fight Theodore, and that we + have also a lion-train, which will shortly be here. Our news from + Magdala is as before. Theodore is slowly, very slowly advancing. He + has got heavy cannon, and insists upon taking them with him. + Waagshum, the king who has been besieging Magdala, has fairly run + away, and the tribes around Magdala have all sent in their + allegiance to Theodore. Theodore has been writing to Rassam as if + he were his dearest friend, and Rassam has been answering him as if + he were Theodore’s grovelling slave. Theodore’s letter runs in this + style: <span class="tei tei-q">“How are you? Are you well? I am + quite well. Fear not. I am coming to your assistance. Keep up your + head. I shall soon be with you. I have two big cannon. They are + terrible, but very heavy to move.”</span> Rassam answers somewhat + in this style: <span class="tei tei-q">“Illustrious and most + clement of potentates, I, your lowest of slaves, rejoice at the + thought that your coming will throw a light upon our darkness. Our + hearts swell with a great joy;”</span> and more fulsome stuff of + the same character. <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page183">[pg + 183]</span><a name="Pg183" id="Pg183" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Dr. Blanc’s letters to us are at once spirited + and manly. <span class="tei tei-q">“We are delighted,”</span> he + says, <span class="tei tei-q">“at the thought of your coming. How + it will end no one can say. We are all prepared for the worst; but + we have at least the satisfaction of knowing that our deaths will + be avenged.”</span> Up to the last moment of doing this we have no + day fixed for Sir Robert Napier’s advance upon Attegrat. The 5th is + named as the earliest date upon which a messenger can return from + Grant’s party, and say when Kassa, the King of Tigre, will be at + Attegrat to meet the General. It is probable that the King will + start almost immediately Grant arrives, and in that case Sir Robert + will have to move forward at once in order to arrive first at the + place of meeting. I go on to-morrow, unless any circumstance should + occur to change my plan.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The scientific + and the general members of the expedition are arriving very fast. + Dr. Markham, the geographer of the expedition, has long been here. + Mr. Holmes, of the British Museum, arrived yesterday, as + archæologist; he is going off to-morrow to a church a few miles + distant, to examine some manuscripts said to exist there. The Dutch + officers arrive up to-day, and I hear two French officers arrive + to-morrow. In reference to these foreign officers, I am assured + to-day by a staff-officer, to whom I was regretting that more was + not done for them, that they are not really commissioners. It may + be so; but as, at any rate, they are officers who are paid by + foreign governments, and are allowed to accompany the expedition, I + confess that I am unable to see any essential difference. The + staff-officer assured me, as a proof of the beneficent intentions + of the authorities, that these foreign officers would not be + charged for their rations. John Bull is indeed liberal. He is much + more sharp as to the <span class="tei tei-q">“specials;”</span> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page184">[pg 184]</span><a name= + "Pg184" id="Pg184" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>for a general order + was actually issued the other day, saying that <span class= + "tei tei-q">“gentlemen unconnected with the army were to pay for a + month’s rations in advance.”</span> With the exception of the + scientific men, who are all sent out by Government, and must, I + suppose, be considered official persons, there are only four + gentlemen here <span class="tei tei-q">“unconnected with the + army,”</span> namely, three other special correspondents and + myself. I remarked to a commissariat-officer, with a smile, when + called upon to pay my month in advance, that <span class= + "tei tei-q">“I thought I might have been considered as good for the + payment at the end of each month as officers were.”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Ah,”</span> said the astute officer, + <span class="tei tei-q">“but suppose anything were to happen to + you, whom should we look to for payment?”</span> The reply was + obvious: <span class="tei tei-q">“But, on the other hand, suppose + that unpleasant contingency should occur, of whom are my + representatives to claim the amount for the days paid for but not + eaten?”</span> At whose suggestion this general order was issued I + know not; but I do know that anything more paltry and more unworthy + the general order of a large army was never issued. Who issued this + order I know not, for I cannot but repeat that no one could be more + kind and considerate than are Sir Robert Napier and every member of + his staff to all of us.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I must now close + my letter, for it is getting late, and my hand is so cold I can + hardly hold a pen. I may just mention that colds are very prevalent + here, and that at night there is an amount of coughing going on + among the natives in the tents around, that is greater even than + could be heard in an English church on a raw November morning + during a dull sermon.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc40" id="toc40"></a> <a name="pdf41" id="pdf41"></a> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page185">[pg 185]</span><a name= + "Pg185" id="Pg185" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Senafe, February 3d. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When I closed my + letter on the evening of the 31st ultimo, I had intended to start + early the next morning. My plan was to have gone on to Attegrat, to + have stopped a day or two there, and to have returned in plenty of + time to have gone up again with Sir Robert Napier. After I had + closed my letter, however, I heard that he would probably leave on + the 5th; I should not, therefore, have had time to carry out my + plan, and determined, in consequence, to wait here another day or + two, and then to move on quietly in advance of the General, so as + to be able to devote a short time to the examination of the country + in the neighbourhood of each of the stations. I had another course + open to me. The extreme advanced party are pushing on beyond + Attegrat, on the road to Antalo. Should I go with them, or should I + remain near head-quarters and report the regular progress of + events? It was more amusing, of course, to be pushing on ahead; but + it seemed to me that the interest of the public lay not in the + road, but in the progress of the troops along that road. I have + therefore made up my mind to jog quietly along with the main body + of the army, the more especially as the meeting between Sir Robert + Napier and the King of Tigre will be one of the most interesting + events in the whole expedition.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Speedy has + arrived in camp. He is to act as political adviser to General + Napier, and his arrival is a general matter of satisfaction. Mr. + Speedy was at one time an officer in the 81st Foot; he afterwards + exchanged into the 10th Punjaubees, of which regiment he was some + time adjutant. He afterwards left the service and wandered out to + Abys<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page186">[pg 186]</span><a name= + "Pg186" id="Pg186" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>sinia, where he + entered the service of Theodore, and assisted him to organise and + drill his army. Finding he was likely to share the fate of other + British in this potentate’s employ, and to be cast into prison, Mr. + Speedy threw up his appointment, and has since been living in + Australia. General Napier, having heard of him, wrote to beg him to + come; and Mr. Speedy received the letter just in time to come off + by the mail, with a kit, according to popular report, consisting + only of two blankets. He is not, I am happy to say, an Abyssinian + worshipper. Dr. Krapf, Colonel Merewether’s adviser, is so. He + seems to think that the black is a very much finer specimen of + humanity than the white man; and that deeds which would be punished + in the latter are highly excusable, if not laudable, when + perpetrated by the former. Dr. Krapf is not singular in his ideas. + Had his lines lain in England, I have no doubt that he would have + been one of Governor Eyre’s foremost persecutors. I am very glad + that a healthier tone is likely to be introduced in our dealings + with the natives. Mr. Speedy rode out yesterday, at the General’s + request, to some of the villages round, called upon the priests, + and offered a present of money for the relief of the poor and + distressed. The answer in each case was the same. The priests said + that had it not been for our coming, a period of severe distress + and suffering would probably have occurred. The crops had been + devastated by the locusts, and the present drought would seriously + affect the next harvest. Thanks, however, to the money which the + English had distributed through the country in payment for cattle + purchased by the commissariat, and for hay, wood, milk, &c., + and for the hire of transport, the people were better off than + usual; and therefore, with the exception of three or four dollars + for <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page187">[pg 187]</span><a name= + "Pg187" id="Pg187" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the aged and infirm, + they would decline with thanks General Napier’s gift.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Engineer + Corps here have been very busy for the last few days practising + signalling. The method used is Captain Bolton’s system, which is in + use in the Royal Navy. The method in which these signals are + managed on land is, however, less known, and is specially + interesting, as it is the first time they have been used in actual + warfare. The present is, indeed, a sort of experiment; and if it + prove successful and useful, it is probable that the system will be + generally introduced into the army. The Engineers are giving + lessons in the art of signalling to soldiers of the 33d regiment, + and will teach men of each regiment out here, so that the system + may be fairly tested. The signals by day are conveyed by flags; + there are white, white-and-black, and black, according to the + alphabet or method to be used. A single wave to the right means + one; two waves, two; and so on up to five; the remaining four + numbers are made either by waves to the left or by combination of + wavings to either side. These numbers, like the flags on board + ship, refer to a number in a book with which each signalman is + furnished. Let us suppose, for example, that a general situated + upon rising ground wishes to signal to any given division of his + army. He makes the signal, let us say, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“five.”</span> The signal is passed along by the line + of signalmen to the fifth division, who all, by waving their flags, + testify readiness. The signal is then passed, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“1015.”</span> This means, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“move to the support of the fourth division,”</span> + which is instantly done without loss of time. Or the flags may be + addressed to all the corps of the army; and the order, waved over + thirty miles of country, might be, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Concentrate on the centre division.”</span> It is, + indeed, asto<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page188">[pg + 188]</span><a name="Pg188" id="Pg188" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>nishing how much time would be gained by using + this method instead of sending a score of aides-de-camp scouring + all over the country. At night the signals are conveyed by means of + flashing lights. These are extremely ingenious in their + construction. The signaller, who is always accompanied by a + companion with a signal-book, has a brass tube some eight feet + long, at the extremity of which is a lantern; in this lantern a + spirit-lamp burns; underneath this spirit-lamp is a receptacle in + which is placed a powder composed of magnesium, resin, and + lycopodium, very much like the mixture with which stage-carpenters + produce lightning by blowing it through a candle. This lamp acts on + precisely the same principle. A bellows is attached to the brass + tube. This bellows the signaller works, either in short or in long + pressures; and the air, as it passes up, goes through the powder + and forces a small quantity of it through a pair of nozzles placed + close to the spirit-flame. The result is a brilliant flash, which + is long or short according to the pressure upon the bellows. This + light can be seen at a very great distance, and two or three + parties of signallers placed upon hill-tops could convey an order a + distance of fifty miles in a very few minutes. The difficulty, of + course, lies in the liability to error. A single puff more or less + might entirely change the order. 1021 might mean <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Concentrate upon your left flank;”</span> 1022 + <span class="tei tei-q">“Concentrate upon your right.”</span> It is + all very well to say that each signal is repeated, and therefore + that a mistake would be instantly corrected; but we all know what + mistakes occur in telegraphic messages, even if we pay for their + being repeated. The system appears as good and as little liable to + error as anything of the kind could be; but when we consider that a + miscounting of the flashes of light or of the <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page189">[pg 189]</span><a name="Pg189" id="Pg189" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>waving of a flag might entirely alter + the order given, it is evident that the risk is so great that a + general would rather, if possible, despatch a mounted officer with + written instructions. At the same time, the system for distant + communication is undoubtedly adapted to expedite the movements of + an army over a large tract of country. General Napier has taken a + great interest in the experiments, and I have no doubt the system + will be thoroughly tried during the present expedition. The + apparatus for each signalling-party is singularly complete and + handy; it is carried in two baskets or mule-panniers, and includes + everything which could be required, comprising a light-tent, a + canteen, flags, lanterns, a supply of alcohol and powder, a small + case for writing in the rain, signal-books, &c. Each of these + double panniers contains, in fact, everything required for the + signalmen; and with twelve such apparatus, distributed among + parties placed upon hill-tops, signals might be flashed at night + from London to Edinburgh.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The elephants + for the guns have not yet arrived, but are expected to-morrow, and + in that case will go on with Sir Robert Napier; who, I believe, + will positively leave in the afternoon. As several other bodies of + troops move on the same day, it will make his entry into Attegrat + quite an imposing affair. In fact, I should not be surprised if the + sight of the elephants created quite a stampede among the natives. + Speaking of elephants, a sad accident occurred a few days since at + Sooro. These animals are to be met with in the mountains between + that place and the sea, and three have been killed by officers of + the Beloochees. Accordingly, Major Beville and Lieutenant Edwards + went out to try their fortune, and were successful in finding a + herd of them feed<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page190">[pg + 190]</span><a name="Pg190" id="Pg190" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>ing in a valley. The animals scented them + before they could get within fair shot, and began to run rapidly + away; whereupon Edwards rushed out, crossed a small intervening + nullah, and followed upon their heels. Elephants, however, are not + animals that like being followed, and accordingly one of them + turned and charged his pursuer. Edwards fired at him, but failing + to check him, took to his heels. The animal overtook him in his + descent of the nullah, seized him in his trunk, dashed him to the + ground, and endeavoured to trample on him, but fortunately the + slope of the ground rendered this a matter of difficulty. At this + critical moment Major Beville arrived, and fired into the animal, + who, most fortunately, upon finding himself wounded, quitted his + victim and fled. Extraordinary to state, poor Edwards was not + killed; but he has received some severe internal injuries, and is + now lying at Sooro in a very precarious state.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + bullock-carts, which arrived the day before yesterday, aroused, as + I anticipated, the admiration and wonder of the natives to the + highest point. I believe that they never saw a wheeled vehicle + before; and the apparition of the long line of carts, drawn by the + splendid Brahmin cattle, coming up laden with stores, from a defile + which all their traditions from time immemorial have represented to + them as being impracticable even for their own sure-footed little + cattle, completed their assurance that the English are truly sons + of Sheitan. Our energy and resources must indeed appear something + quite supernatural to this primitive people.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">One of my + principal grounds for objection to the Abyssinians is that they are + such an intensely lazy race. Now, if people like to be lazy, and to + eat the scanty bread of idleness instead of the large loaf gained + by hard work, it is <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page191">[pg + 191]</span><a name="Pg191" id="Pg191" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>their own business, and a mere matter of + taste, in favour of which there is much to be said. But the + Abyssinian, although intensely lazy, is by no means satisfied to + eat the bread of idleness. The noble savage is keenly awake to the + value of labour, and insists that all the members of his family, + with the exception only of himself and such of his sons as may be + big enough to have their own way, work like the veriest slaves. You + will see a great lout of a man walking lazily along towards the + camp, armed with his spear and shield, while before him stagger his + old mother, his wife, his sister, and his four or five children, + carrying enormous bundles of hay. I am not exaggerating when I say + that you will frequently see little girls not more than seven years + old carrying bundles of hay of forty-five pounds weight into camp; + and poor little mites of three or four years old carry a + proportionate burden. The weight is never carried on the head, + always upon the back, fastened by a thong of leather, which goes + over the arms just below the shoulder and across the chest. The + child or woman, as the case may be, walks bent forward, almost + double. The men never carry loads; it is beneath the dignity of a + noble savage. The whole of the work is done by the females and by + the little boys of the family. My blood has fairly boiled many + times, and I have longed heartily to lay my riding-whip across the + shoulders of these lazy scoundrels, who are too lazy to work, but + not too proud to drive their little children to work, and to live + upon the result. The boys do, as I have said, a certain amount. + When they are quite little they do nearly as much as their sisters, + but as they grow up they do less and less, and it is rare to see a + boy over twelve years old carrying a burden. The women here carry + their babies on their backs, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page192">[pg 192]</span><a name="Pg192" id="Pg192" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>and not across the hip as the Hindoostanee + women always do. The children are held in a sort of small shawl of + leather, which is wrapped tightly round the mother, and only the + top of the little thing’s head is generally to be seen. In this way + the mother has her arms free, and can carry about her bundle of + wood or grass for sale; but in this case the burden is, of course, + carried in her arms before her. I have often wondered that the + children survive the double risk—of suffocation, from pressure + against their mother’s backs, and of sunstroke, from the sun coming + down full upon the unprotected tops of their little bald heads. + They do not seem to mind it, and I do not think that I have heard + more than one or two infants utter a wail when being carried in + that position. I can only suppose that the natural warmth of their + mothers’ naked backs is agreeable to them; but, with our present + style of dress, it is not an experiment which I should recommend an + English nurse to try with a fractious child, unless she wishes a + coroner’s inquest to be held upon it, with possibly other more + unpleasant proceedings to follow.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The stores in + the commissariat-yard here continue to increase, thanks to the + amount brought up by the native cattle. At present there is, I + understand, about a month’s consumption for the troops here and in + advance. The arrangements of the commissariat-yard are very good; + as, indeed, most of the arrangements of that department have been + throughout the expedition. At times this yard presents a most + interesting spectacle. Here are large piles of rice- and + flour-bags, and beside them the Parsees weighing out the rations to + the numerous applicants. A little farther on is the butcher’s shop, + where the meat-rations are cut up and distributed. Here is a large + enclosure fenced round with bushes, and <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page193">[pg 193]</span><a name="Pg193" id="Pg193" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>containing cattle purchased for the troops + from the natives. Here are some hundreds of mules unloading stores + which they have brought from below. Farther on are more being + loaded with grass, to go down for the sustenance of the animals in + the pass. Here, again, are hundreds of women and children laden + with grass, which an officer of the commissariat is weighing and + paying for; giving, however, the money to the men; who, the instant + the women have brought in the grass, send them off, and exert + themselves so far as to receive the money. Near these is the + wood-yard, where a similar scene is being enacted. Back again by + the store-yard are a host of native cattle, which are waiting to + receive stores to take forward to Attegrat. The contract price for + this is a dollar and a half per head; and I am glad to say that we + can obtain as many cattle as we like for the purpose. Here we have + men; the only employment, indeed, which the Abyssinian men will + undertake is driving cattle, or rather following them, for they + never attempt in any way to guide or influence their movements, but + dawdle after them with their eternal spears and shields, knowing + well that the sagacious little cattle will always follow the beaten + track. Close by is a space marked off for a market. Here we have + groups of men squatted about everywhere among their cattle, sheep, + and goats: there are a good many donkeys too, and a few mules. For + these latter they have raised the price very greatly during the + last month: then a good mule could be bought for fifteen dollars, + now they charge thirty-five and forty. They are very independent + too, and refuse to abate a single dollar in the price they ask: if + they do not obtain the exact sum they demand, they will, after a + certain time, mount and ride off to their villages, to return again + next <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page194">[pg 194]</span><a name= + "Pg194" id="Pg194" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>day with the price + probably enhanced two or three dollars over that demanded on the + first occasion.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I must now close + this, as I am on the point of starting for Attegrat. I shall + endeavour to send a few lines in from Goun-Gonna, the next station; + for as the next mail starts in four days, and I shall be getting + farther away every march, a letter from Attegrat could not get in + here in time for the post.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc42" id="toc42"></a> <a name="pdf43" id="pdf43"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Goun-Gonna, February 4th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I feel quite + glad to be again getting forward. Senafe has so long been my + advanced post, that it seemed as if we were never going to get + beyond that point. However, now I am once more <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">en + route</span></span>, I hope that I shall have no further + stop—beyond a few days at Attegrat, to see the meeting of the King + of Tigre and the General—until I arrive at Antalo. Antalo will be + about ten days’ march from here, and, once there, half the distance + to Magdala will have been accomplished. My ride yesterday afternoon + was one of the most pleasant I have had here. The temperature was + delightful—a bright sun and a strong cool wind; the road, too, for + some distance, across an undulating plain, descending sharply into + a magnificent valley, was a charming change after the monotony of + the long valleys, up and down which I have been riding for the last + six weeks, and the wide expanse of the sandy plain of Zulla. After + leaving Senafe the plain falls for some distance, and after about + five miles’ ride we came down to the lowest point, where, in + ordinary times, a small stream of water crosses the road, but which + at present is perfectly dry, except where it has accumulated in + large pools. <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page195">[pg + 195]</span><a name="Pg195" id="Pg195" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>By + the side of one of these, about two miles to our left, we saw the + camp of cavalry and sick animals. I may mention, by the way, that + although the disease among the mules is much upon the decrease, and + has altogether lost the virulence which at first characterised it, + there are still, by the last weekly statement, two thousand six + hundred animals, including camels, unfit for work, from one cause + or other.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In this watered + valley are immense herds of cattle. The plain is covered with a + thick coarse grass, which has now been everywhere cut, either by + the troops themselves for their horses, or by the natives for sale + to us. Crossing the plain, we have a steep rise up the side of the + hill, and then, surmounting the rise, we find ourselves at the head + of a valley running nearly due south. This we descend; and from the + number of villages perched on the eminences on either side, it is + evident that water is generally found in this locality. It was + probably, at some not very distant time, much more thickly + populated than it is at present, for many of the villages are + ruinous and deserted. This valley is very pretty, and, after the + treeless plain of Senafe, is doubly agreeable, for the sides of the + hills are everywhere clothed with the gigantic candelabra cactus. + These are now just bursting into blossom. The blossoms grow from + the extremity of each of the innumerable arms of the candelabra; + and as their colour varies from white, through delicate shades of + pink, to dark-red, the effect is very beautiful; indeed, with their + regular growth, and perfect mass of blossom, they look as if they + had just been transplanted from the grounds of the Messrs. Veitch + to this country for some gigantic flower-show. There is a church in + this valley, which is much venerated as being the scene of the + martyrdom of some eight or ten Christians in the <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page196">[pg 196]</span><a name="Pg196" id="Pg196" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>time of the persecution. My knowledge of + Abyssinian history is, I confess, of too meagre a nature for me to + give you an approximate date of this affair. Their bones are, + however, still to be seen; and from this I should say that the + event could not be very distant, as in a climate subject to great + heat and heavy rains as this is, it is probable that bones would + very speedily decay. The church is at some distance from the road, + and is, like most of the churches here, upon a hill. I did not, + therefore, turn aside to examine it, as I shall have plenty of + opportunities of examining churches hereafter, and, with the + exception of the martyrs’ bones, it presents no feature of peculiar + interest. Descending the valley, we find it to be only a feeder of + a wide valley running east and west. The valley was, like Goose + Plain, covered with coarse grass, and contained immense herds of + cattle. The side opposite to that by which we had entered it was + very steep; the mountains are nearly bare, and near their summits + present an appearance which, had I not seen it also upon the rock + at Senafe, I should have said had been caused by a very slight fall + of snow. I learn, however, that it is a very small lichen, which is + abundant upon the rocks. I presume that this lichen is at present + in flower or seed; for I did not observe the peculiar appearance at + my first visit to Senafe, and it is so remarkable that I could not + have failed to notice it had it existed at that time. We know now + that we are near our destination, for we see the grass-cutters + going along with great bundles of hay. We cross the valley and + enter a smaller valley, which forks at a slight angle with the + large one. As we fairly entered it, we saw near its extremity the + camp of Goun-Gonna. A prettier situation could hardly have been + selected. The hills to the right-hand are almost <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page197">[pg 197]</span><a name="Pg197" id="Pg197" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>perpendicular, and upon a ledge about + half-way up a village is nestled. The stream which flows down it + has been used for the purpose of irrigation, and the bright green + of the young crops was a delightful relief to our eyes. On the + left-hand the hills are less precipitous, but are still very steep. + The valley is less than a quarter of a mile in width, and ends + abruptly with a semicircular sweep a short distance above the spot + where the camp is pitched. What adds greatly to the beauty of the + valley is, that it contains several of those immense trees with + distorted trunks and bright-green foliage, whose real name is a + moot point, but which are alike claimed to belong to the banyan, + india-rubber, or tulip-tree species. At any rate, whatever be their + species, they are one of the most picturesque species of tree I + ever saw. They cover an immense extent of ground, and their trunks + sometimes lie along the ground, sometimes rise in strange contorted + forms. Their bark is extremely rough, and whitish-gray, and if seen + without the foliage, would be certainly rather taken for strange + blocks and pillars of stone than for the trunks of trees. In the + camp we found a company of the 33d and the head-quarters of that + regiment, who are upon their way to join the wing at Attegrat, and + who had just come in, as had the mountain battery of steel guns + under Colonel Milward, both having left Senafe two or three hours + before ourselves. There was also a convoy of the Transport Train on + their way to the front, and also a troop of the Scinde Horse. This + station must be fifteen hundred feet below Senafe, and the + difference of temperature is surprising. Last night I did not at + all feel cold, whereas at Senafe it was next to impossible to keep + warm, however numerous the wrappings in which one enveloped + oneself. This morning I have been up a very pretty <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page198">[pg 198]</span><a name="Pg198" id="Pg198" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>little broad valley, about a quarter of + a mile in length. This branches off from the larger valley exactly + opposite the camp, and it is down this that the little stream of + water comes. The valley is clothed in shrubs and small trees, and + the water falls into it over a perpendicular rock fifty feet high + at its upper extremity. It put me very much in mind of a + Westmoreland glen, with a little <span class= + "tei tei-q">“force”</span> at the extremity. Here, too, to increase + the resemblance, I found some old friends whom I have not seen + since I left England, namely dog-roses, common brambles, and + honeysuckle. Down by the water’s edge, upon the rocks, kept moist + by the water-spray, grew maiden-hair and other ferns. The air was + sweet with arbutus-flowers, and the plash of the water was most + grateful to the ear after the dry plains of Zulla and Senafe. Here, + too, we had the aloe in flower, with its long heads of + reddish-orange blossom. Here we had a sort of scabius ten feet + high, and a rush or water-grass twenty feet in height, with its + plumy reed. Here over the shrubs crept the familiar clematis, with + its great clusters of white downy reed. Here was a sort of tares, + with their pink blossom, and growing straight and strong to a + height of four or five feet. Upon the trees were perched + wood-pigeons and doves, which called to one another with their soft + coo. Altogether it was a lovely little spot, and it was with the + greatest reluctance that I left it to come back to camp to write + this letter previous to starting for Fokado, the next station.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">You will see + that, although the mail only goes once a week, I am, as long as I + am moving forwards, obliged to write every three days, as for every + day I move further the mail takes another day to come down. It is, + in addition, no easy matter to find time to write when upon the + march. One <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page199">[pg + 199]</span><a name="Pg199" id="Pg199" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>rises at daybreak, which is little before + seven, and, using the very greatest diligence, it is nearly two + hours before the tent can be struck, and the mules loaded and upon + their way. I generally give them a start of an hour, and then ride + on, overtake them, and see that all is going on well. If so, I ride + forward, and use some friend’s tent until my own arrives, which, if + the distance is fourteen miles, will not be until nearly four in + the afternoon; for my mules, with stoppages to readjust baggage, + &c., do not make above two miles an hour. Then there is + pitching the tent, drawing rations, and seeing the horses watered + and fed; and by the time dinner is ready and our work done, it is + past six o’clock. One generally puts one’s rations with those of + friends; and by the time the meal is over, and the succeeding pipe + and glass of arrack-and-water discussed, one is far more fit for + bed than for sitting down to chronicle the events of the day. My + next letter will be from Attegrat, where I expect to stay for a few + days.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc44" id="toc44"></a> <a name="pdf45" id="pdf45"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Attegrat, February 7th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have been so + long looking forward to arriving at Attegrat, that, being here, I + feel that I have made a long stage into the interior of Abyssinia. + I confess, however, that I am disappointed in Attegrat. It is + foolish, I own. I ought by this time to have learnt the utter + hollowness and emptiness of all statements connected with the + country; and everything we have been told, everything we have been + led to expect, has alike turned out utterly incorrect. Sometimes we + have been told pleasant things, sometimes we have been threatened + with dire calamities; but in both cases the vati<span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page200">[pg 200]</span><a name="Pg200" id="Pg200" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>cinations have turned out equally + incorrect. Guinea-worms and tape-worms, fever and cholera, + small-pox and dysentery, tetse-fly and sunstroke—all these have + been distinguished by their absence: but as a counterbalance, so + have Colonel Phayre’s green fields and gushing springs at Zulla, + his perennial water between Sooro and Rayray Guddy, and his + emporium of commerce at Senafe, which turned out a village of six + mud-huts. Still, in spite of previous disappointments, I confess I + clung to the idea that I should find a town of considerable size at + Attegrat. The place was marked in Roman capitals upon the maps. It + had been spoken of as a town flowing with milk and honey; it was to + be one of our main halting-places; and altogether one certainly did + expect to find rather more than twenty hovels, a barn called a + church, and another ruinous barn which was once a palace. But + before I describe Attegrat, let me detail my journey here from + Goun-Gonna. I sent my baggage off at seven o’clock in the morning, + at the same time that the baggage of the head-quarters of the 33d + and Colonel Penn’s battery of mountain guns started. I then + explored the pretty valley I described in my last, and afterwards + went into a friend’s tent and finished my letter to you. At twelve + o’clock I started for what I was told was an eleven miles’ ride; + but it turned out the longest sixteen I have ever ridden. Every + officer and man to whom I have spoken—and among others I may quote + Colonel Milward and Colonel Penn of the Artillery, and Major + Cooper, and all the officers of the 33d—agreed with me that it was + over sixteen miles. Colonel Phayre’s and the quartermaster’s + departments’ gross miscalculation of distances is becoming a very + serious nuisance. It is absolutely cruel upon the men. If soldiers + are told <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page201">[pg + 201]</span><a name="Pg201" id="Pg201" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>that they have a sixteen miles’ march across a + rough country, and beneath a hot sun, they will do the distance. It + may be hard work; but they know when they start what is before + them, and they make up their minds to it. But when they are told it + is eleven miles, at the end of that distance they begin to look out + anxiously for their camping-place. They become cross and impatient, + and are infinitely more fatigued than they would have been had they + been told the real distance that was before them.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I now resume my + account of my day’s march. For the first two miles the road mounted + very steeply, until we were at least a thousand feet above + Goun-Gonna, and had gained the great plateau out of which the + valley is cut. It must have been a very difficult ascent before the + road was made by the Sappers and Miners and Punjaub Pioneers. I do + not know which parts of the road between Senafe and Attegrat are to + be assigned to each regiment; but I believe that the road between + Senafe and Goun-Gonna was executed principally by the 33d, assisted + by the 10th Native Infantry, and that beyond this point it has been + entirely the work of the Sappers and Miners and the Pioneers. The + road from Goun-Gonna to Attegrat has not been continuously formed, + as it is from Zulla to Goun-Gonna. It is only made in very + difficult places, where it would have been next to impossible for a + mule to have passed without its burden getting over its ears or + tail. In other places we have the mere track worn by the people of + the country; but where we ascend or descend gulleys or ravines, or + where the road winds along on the face of a hill, when a false step + would have involved a roll of a thousand feet down, there a fair + road has been cut, which, although frequently steep, is always safe + and <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page202">[pg 202]</span><a name= + "Pg202" id="Pg202" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>passable. The road, + take it as a whole, from Goun-Gonna to this place, is about as good + as a bridle-road among the Welsh or Scotch hills. There are some + extremely-steep places, where one mule falling down would stop a + whole force, and where the loads shift terribly; but there are no + places which cannot with care be surmounted, even by a + baggage-train of mules. But this has been the easy portion of the + journey. From this place to Antalo the difficulties will be vastly + greater; beyond Antalo still greater again. It is for this reason + that I look forward to a time when my knapsack will contain my + whole luggage, and when sleeping in the open air will be the rule + for everyone. Upon getting fairly up to the top of the hill-side + from Goun-Gonna, a flat of apparently almost illimitable extent + stretched away before us. Two or three of the curious conical hills + which abound in this country rose at a considerable distance, and + in the horizon were the peaks of the most fantastically-jagged + range of mountains I ever saw. Nothing in the Alps will give any + idea of the varied outline of this range of peaks. They are + serrated and jagged in every conceivable form. Single peaks and + double peaks, peaks like a cavalry saddle, and great square-topped + blocks with perpendicular sides. The plain itself was dotted with + low bushes, and covered everywhere with a luxuriant growth of + grass, or rather hay, which reached up to the horses’ girths. The + ground was strewn with loose stones, which, with the numerous small + holes, made any progress beyond a walking-pace difficult and even + dangerous. The stones, and indeed the whole formation of this upper + plateau, are composed of a very white sandstone. In the pass up to + Senafe the formation was entirely schist, broken and cracked-up in + a wonderful manner, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page203">[pg + 203]</span><a name="Pg203" id="Pg203" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>with numerous veins of quartz, and occasional + walls of very hard volcanic stone traversing it. On the plain of + Senafe, and throughout the whole country this side of it, we have a + superincumbent bed of sandstone, which has evidently been exposed + for a very long time to the action of water. The great rocks of + Senafe are everywhere water-worn, and were islets, which rose above + the level of a great sea, and resisted the action of the water, + which has cleared away the sandstone around them to the general + regular level of the plateau. Traversing the plain, we found that + the seemingly almost boundless level was apparent rather than real, + for the road constantly wound to avoid great valleys, which + everywhere penetrated far into it. The sensation of coming suddenly + upon a valley of 1000 or 1500 feet deep when apparently travelling + upon a level plain was very singular. It quite upset all our + preconceived notions of scenery. One found that the mountains to + our left, which had appeared to rise a thousand feet or so above + the plain, were really double that height from the bottom of the + before-invisible valley which intervened between ourselves and + them, and that the plain we were traversing was not a plain at all, + but a succession of flat mountain-tops. Sometimes these valleys ran + so far into the plateau that the road would have to diverge too + much from the straight line to pass round their heads, and in these + cases we descended some hundred feet and mounted up the other side. + The view down some of these valleys was extremely fine, the + mountains beyond frequently rising for miles in an unbroken + perpendicular wall of two or three thousand feet. The finest view, + however, was about two miles from our halting-place; and this, + although I have seen much splendid scenery in my varied wanderings, + was cer<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page204">[pg + 204]</span><a name="Pg204" id="Pg204" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>tainly the finest and most striking scene I + ever beheld. Our path was winding along the face of a high + mountain, along which our pioneers had cut a path some ten or + twelve feet wide. We were perhaps a hundred feet above the general + level of the plateau, but were passing round the head of a valley + which lay some fifteen hundred feet below us. This valley was only + a short branch of a broader valley which ran at right-angles to it, + and beyond and in the middle of which a number of isolated hills + rose up like islands; these were all flat-topped, and rose to the + exact level of the general plateau. Some had sloping sides, others + were perfectly perpendicular; and it required no stretch of the + imagination to picture the time when a mighty river was sweeping + down this great valley, and when these island-mountains breasted + and divided its waters. To our right this valley was ten or twelve + miles wide, and the numerous islands presented an extraordinary + vista of precipice and slope. On the opposite side of the valley + the plateau extended for a mile or two, and then rose into lofty + rounded mountains; more to the left it stretched away for many + miles, and the view was bounded by the extraordinary fantastic + range of peaks of which I have already spoken. It was a most + glorious view, and, broken by the lights and shadows thrown by a + sinking sun, will always remain in my recollection as the most + extraordinary and magnificent landscape I ever saw.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We arrived at + Fokado at half-past four, getting in half an hour before our + baggage, which had been eight hours and a half upon the road, and + quite determined that in future, whatever labour it involved, we + would not again let it out of our sight. The break-down of a + baggage-animal, if one is at hand oneself to see that one’s + servants instantly and pro<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page205">[pg + 205]</span><a name="Pg205" id="Pg205" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>perly reload it, is an affair of ten minutes + at most; but if the servants are left to their own devices, it will + occupy over half-an-hour. First of all there are ten minutes wasted + in deploring the calamity, another ten in undoing the cords, and at + least twenty more in repacking and getting under way. Fokado, like + all our camping-stations, lies in a slight basin; this basin is, + like the rest of the plateau-land, covered with long grass. A dozen + men with scythes could cut enough in a day to supply a cavalry + regiment; but they would have to be very careful to choose such + portions of the plain as are not covered with stones. As it is, the + grass-cutters are supplied with very small sickles, which do very + well to hack off a bunch of grass, but which are of little use + towards getting in any large quantity. Fortunately the natives cut + and bring it in in considerable amount, and I am able to purchase + an abundance from them; for no forage is issued by the commissariat + for our baggage-animals, and it would be out of the question to + expect our syces to go out and cut grass after a long and fatiguing + day’s march. There is a well at Fokado from which plenty of cool + and moderately-pure water is obtained. After having seen my tent + erected and my rations drawn and on the fire, I walked on with two + or three officers of the 33d to see the church. It stood, as most + of the churches here do, upon slightly-rising ground, and was + surrounded by a high wall, with the gateway entering beneath a sort + of tower. Having paid my dollar—the modest tariff here demanded for + admission—I entered the enclosure. It was in a state of the utmost + disorder; loose boulders and stones were strewn everywhere, and I + saw no signs whatever of graves. This was the case in the other + three churches I have since visited, and is the more singular as + the grave<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page206">[pg + 206]</span><a name="Pg206" id="Pg206" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>yards I saw and described coming up the pass, + and which were those of the Mahometan tribes who inhabit that part + of the country, were so carefully constructed and so religiously + preserved. I have not seen a single grave since I entered the + Christian part of Abyssinia. Near the church-door was a framework + of three cross-poles, and from this were suspended, by straw ropes, + two large stones of sonorous qualities. These were the + church-bells. The church itself was a low edifice, built of rough + stones, with large blocks forming the door-frame. Entering, I found + myself in a low chamber, the roof being supported by four rough + stone columns. The floor was littered down with rushes, and had + exactly the appearance of a stable. On the wall was a rude + half-length fresco of the Virgin, squinting terribly; and on the + door leading to the next chamber was a skin or parchment with a + somewhat similar painting. Having bowed deeply before each of these + portraits at the request of the officiating priest, I was admitted + into the next chamber, which was precisely similar to the first, + but, having no windows, it only received such light as came in + through the crevices of the doors. There was some demur as to my + entering the next chamber, which indeed had been refused to all the + officers who had been previously there; but I pointed to my white + solar hat; and this and the fact of my not being in uniform + convinced them, I believe, that I was a priest; for I should + mention that the Abyssinian priests are distinguished by wearing + white turbans, all the rest of the population going bare-headed. I + was therefore admitted into the holy of holies. This was a more + lofty chamber than the others, and was lighted by a window high up + on the side wall. Across the room, at a distance of about a yard + from <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page207">[pg 207]</span><a name= + "Pg207" id="Pg207" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the door, hung a + screen about six feet high; this screen was made of + roughly-embroidered canvas, and was apparently intended to prevent + the eyes of the worshippers in the second chamber catching a + glimpse of the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">penetralia</span></span> when the door was + opened. Looking round the end of this curtain, I saw an erection + resembling a painter’s easel. A parchment or skin was stretched + across the upper portion, and on this probably was a painting of + some sort; but as it was wrapped up in a cloth, I was unable to + examine it, as I was not allowed to go beyond the line of the + screen. Returning, I noticed in one corner of the first chamber + some long sticks, with a double bend at the top; that is, + resembling in form a cross, with the top piece broken off. These + are used in the service. Near them, in a niche in the wall, were + some pieces of iron fastened together so as to make a jingling + noise when shaken. These, no doubt, supply the place of the bell at + the raising of the host. I have omitted to say that in the + churchyard were two rough fonts; they were round blocks of stone, + about two feet and a half high and eighteen inches in diameter; the + hollow at the top for water was about eight inches deep. I have + seen no fonts in the other churches I have entered.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The following + morning I started for Attegrat, a march of about eleven miles. For + some distance the road kept along the top of the plateau, which was + here undulating, and the road in many places was very rough. At + last we came to the brink of a valley, into the bottom of which we + had to descend. How anything like a laden animal ever got down + before the road was made it is next to impossible to imagine. We + came along a beaten track to the top of the valley, and we could + see the path again going straight along below us <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page208">[pg 208]</span><a name="Pg208" id="Pg208" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>from the bottom; but there was no trace + of any track or path down the tremendously-steep descent; and I + suppose the little bullocks, which are as sure-footed as goats, and + the donkeys, were allowed to pick their way down as they liked + best. Fortunately, we were not reduced to this alternative, which + would certainly have ended in three out of our four baggage-animals + breaking their necks, even if the fourth—a sturdy little Massowah + mule, with the zebra-marks upon his back and legs—had managed to + get in safety to the bottom. A road has been cut along the face of + the hill by the Sappers and Pioneers; and this road, although + exceedingly steep in some places, is yet perfectly practicable. It + is, however, only six feet wide, and in two or three places even + less, and consequently a train of mules are a long time getting + down; for if the load of one shifts and gets over his ears, all the + rest must wait until it is readjusted-no easy matter upon a steep + incline. If one fall from weakness or disease, there would be no + resource but to roll him at once over the edge of the path into the + valley below. Fortunately, none of these contingencies happened to + us. The loads all got on to the animals’ necks, but our men and + ourselves were able to keep them balanced there until we reached + the foot of the hill, when all the loads had to be taken off and + entirely repacked. Just at the foot of the incline was a village. + During our journey across the plateau from Goun-Gonna to this point + we had only passed Fokado and one other village. We saw many down + in the deep valleys around whose heads we had skirted, but upon the + flat level of the plateau we did not see a single habitation. There + were numerous herds of cattle, but these probably come up to graze + upon the thick grass during the day, and descend <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page209">[pg 209]</span><a name="Pg209" id="Pg209" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>into the valleys for water at night. We + also passed some curious piles of stones upon the plateau-land, + which I omitted to mention in my description of that part of my + journey. These piles were thirty or forty feet in diameter, and + five or six feet high; they were of stones roughly thrown together, + and had I met with them in England I should have supposed that they + had been merely cleared off the fields; but here there were no + signs of cultivation, and the stones were too thickly strewn + everywhere to render it probable that any Abyssinian cultivator + would have undertaken the labour of clearing piles of stones of + this size off his land—a work which, without wheeled vehicles, + would be very great. These heaps always occurred near the track, + and were generally surrounded by bushes. I passed at least twenty + of them. It is possible that these cairns may be burying-places; + but the deserted position, the fact that they were far from + villages, and the labour which they must have taken to make, all + seem to negative this supposition. Besides which, there was hardly + the regularity about their shape which one meets with in the + burying-cairns of even the most savage nations. I confess that they + are to me a perfect mystery. In the village at the foot of the + descent was a church which was exactly similar to the one at + Fokado. It had no fonts that I could observe, but boasted of a gong + in addition to the sonorous stones for summoning the faithful to + prayers. In the enclosure, lying among the stones, was a large + volcanic bomb, the first of the sort I have seen in the country; it + had apparently been brought there as something strange, and perhaps + supernatural, and had therefore been put on holy ground; for the + enclosure within the walls is holy in Abys<span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page210">[pg 210]</span><a name="Pg210" id="Pg210" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>sinian eyes, and we are always required to + take off our hats on entering the outside gates.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From this + village to Attegrat the road keeps in the bottom of a broad valley, + the great part of which is ploughed up and ready for the seed, + which is, I suppose, sown before the June rains. The soil is light + and good, in many places a rich light loam, which would delight an + English gardener’s heart. The ploughs are drawn by oxen, and are + exactly similar to those I have seen in parts of Italy, except that + the share of this is broader and does certainly more work. Indeed, + it is by no means badly adapted for shallow ploughing on a light + ground. A ride of about five miles down the valley brought us to a + slight rise in the ground, and on surmounting this, Attegrat lay + before us. My first impression was that of disappointment, for, + with the exception of its containing two or three larger buildings, + it differed in nothing from the other villages we have seen. The + valley, at the point where Attegrat lies, is about two miles wide, + and the twenty or thirty flat-roofed huts, which, with the church + and a ruined palace, constitute the city, stand on rising ground + nearly in its centre. On the left of this valley, near the slope, + is the British camp. Behind it the ground rises gradually, + affording camping-ground, if necessary, for a considerable force. + Indeed, with the exception of some ploughed fields round the town, + the whole valley is well suited for a camp. The force at present + here are the five companies of the 33d regiment, whose camp, with + that of Penn’s mountain battery of steel guns and the Royal + Engineers, is the first we arrive at. Next to the 33d lines are the + commissariat stores. A few hundred yards farther down in the valley + is the camp of the six companies of the 10th Native Infantry. Their + tents, like those of the European troops, are upon the slope. + Beyond them this slope becomes <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page211">[pg 211]</span><a name="Pg211" id="Pg211" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>much steeper, and accordingly the 3d Native + Cavalry are camped in the bottom. Next to them come the Mule Train. + The divisions here are the Lahore Mule Train and the A Division + under Captain Griffiths. It was this division which first landed, + and brought up the pioneer force. It has been ever since in the + front, and is now in admirable condition. The Egyptian, Arab, + Italian, and, in fact, all the drivers, except only the + Hindoostanee drivers, have been during the last few days sent down + to the coast to be returned to their own countries, and their + places have been filled with the Hindoo dhoolie bearers, and others + whose services will be no longer required, now that the regiments + have all to march without followers. It need hardly be said that + this will very greatly improve the efficiency of the division, for + the Hindoo, if he has less strength than the Arab, Egyptian, or + Persian, is yet amenable to discipline, and will, to the best of + his power, carry out the orders he receives; whereas the other men + were utterly reckless and disobedient, and could not be trusted out + of reach of the eye of their officers. The camp of the Scinde Horse + is still farther down the valley, beyond the transport lines. Sir + Robert Napier arrived yesterday afternoon. His camp had been + pitched for him on some slightly-rising ground in front of the 33d + lines, and distant three or four hundred yards. To-day, however, + the tents are being struck, and will be pitched in a line with the + 33d tents, and forming a connection between them and the artillery. + His tent, therefore, is in the exact centre of the European line, + with the artillery on his right, the 33d on his left flank.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I now proceed to + describe Attegrat. The most conspicuous building, as seen from our + camp, is a detached sort of fortress, which looks like nothing so + much as the castle of <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page212">[pg + 212]</span><a name="Pg212" id="Pg212" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Bluebeard in a pantomime. It stands on a + rising knoll, and consists of a square building of two stories + high. Upon the top, and greatly overhanging each side, are four + extraordinary-looking erections, like great dog-kennels or + pigeon-cots, but which must be six or seven feet square. Almost the + whole of these constructions project over the walls. What may be + the use of these curious appendages to the tower, it is impossible + to say. Next to this square tower stands a building as incongruous + with it in its construction as it is possible to conceive. It is + round, and has a high thatched roof, like a beehive. In addition to + these main structures are several low sheds. The whole are enclosed + in a high wall with a tower in it, underneath which is the gateway. + The buildings are, no doubt, of stone, but they are all plastered + over with mud, and look as if made of that material. As I have + said, it is exactly one’s idea of Bluebeard’s castle, and one + expects to see sister Anne waving her handkerchief out of one of + the pigeon-cots at its summit. Certainly, if the gate were to open, + and a stout figure in an immense pasteboard head, with a blue beard + trailing upon the ground, and surrounded by a host of retainers + also with big heads—which their chief would, of course, belabour + occasionally with his staff—were to issue out, it would be in such + admirable keeping with the place, that one would feel no + astonishment. And yet this fortress has its history, and has stood + its siege. It seems that the king or chief of this part of the + country used seldom to live in his palace in the town itself, and + his brother had his abode there. The brother took too much upon + himself, and the jealousy and ire of the chief were aroused, and he + ordered his brother to move out of the palace. This he did, but + constructed at half-a-mile from the town this for<span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page213">[pg 213]</span><a name="Pg213" id="Pg213" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>midable castle. A disagreement arose, + and the king attacked the castle, which he took after twenty hours’ + siege. The castle is at present inhabited by the wife of a chief—I + cannot say whether it is the same chief, for dates in Abyssinia are + somewhat confused—who is a prisoner of Gobayze, King of Lasta. She + has, I hear, taken a vow never to go out of doors while her husband + is in captivity. Passing Bluebeard’s castle, it is a good half-mile + to the town. At the right-hand on a rising rock is the church, + which at a distance exactly resembles a Swiss châlet. It is, of + course, surrounded by its wall, and within the enclosure grow some + of the gigantic candelabra cactus. The church itself is more lofty + than any I have yet seen. It is square, and is covered with a high + thatched roof, the eaves of which project all round a considerable + distance, and are supported by poles. Upon paying the usual fee, I + was admitted in the enclosure, and saw at once that this church was + of far greater pretensions than any I had yet seen. The entrance + was by a doorway of squared beams, with two arches, each cut out of + one piece, and each ornamented with five rolls of wood underneath. + Entering this, we were in a sort of lobby or hall. The walls of + this were covered with frescoes representing the feats of the + founder of the church, who was either the father or grandfather of + the present chief. Here that redoubted warrior is represented + spearing an elephant; again he is kneeling and taking aim at a + lion, whose claws are of truly-formidable dimensions. Here there + are two or three battle-scenes, in which he is defeating his + enemies with immense slaughter. To judge by his portraits, the + founder of the church was a fair, round-faced man, with short hair + and a slight moustache. I passed from this vestibule into the + church itself. <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page214">[pg + 214]</span><a name="Pg214" id="Pg214" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Its construction differs entirely from the + others I have seen, inasmuch as instead of the sacred chamber being + placed beyond two others, it was in the centre of the building, and + was surrounded by a passage, the walls of which were covered with + frescoes representing events in Old and New Testament writing, and + in the lives of the saints. Here we have St. George nobly spearing + the dragon, while the King of Egypt’s daughter and her maidens + stand by with clasped hands and admiring eyes. Here we have St. + Peter suffering martyrdom by being crucified head downwards; with a + vast number of other martyrdoms. The biblical events all strictly + follow the scriptural description; the only remarkable difference + being that at the Last Supper thirteen apostles are represented as + being present. In all these, as in the first frescoes, the faces of + the actors are represented as white; while in the Temptation the + tempter has his traditional sable hue. These frescoes are all in + the early Byzantine style, and were they but really ancient, would + be extremely curious and valuable; but as the church is not, at + most, more than sixty or seventy years old, it is evident that they + are the work of some Egyptian or Greek artist brought down for the + purpose. I was not allowed to see what was in the central chamber. + Leaving the church, I crossed the town, sixty or seventy yards, to + where, at its other extremity, stands the ruined palace. It is + surrounded by a wall, which encloses a considerable extent of + ground. The principal portion of the palace far more resembles a + church than do any of the actual churches of the country. It + consists of a hall fifty feet long by twenty-five feet wide, with a + small round room at the end opposite to the door. The entrance is + underneath a porch; and along this, at about eight feet from the + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page215">[pg 215]</span><a name= + "Pg215" id="Pg215" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>ground, there are + built into it a line of bullocks’ horns, with their points + projecting outwards. The hall was thirty feet high to the springing + of the roof, and must have been really a fine hall, country and + place being taken into consideration. The greater part of one + side-wall has, however, fallen; and the roof is entirely gone. Some + of the great beams which crossed it lie on the ground, and it would + be a matter of considerable interest to inquire whence, in a + treeless country like this, these massive beams were obtained. The + most interesting portion of the ruin is the room beyond the great + hall, and which was probably the king’s own room. It is entered by + a double-arched door, of workmanship and design similar to that I + have described at the church; the two buildings being coeval, and + the woodwork unquestionably worked by some foreign artificer + brought here for the purpose. The chamber itself is about fifteen + feet across, with three deep recesses, each lighted by a small + double-arched window of the same pattern as the door. The room was + about twelve feet high, and was ceiled by a circular arched roof, + which still remains. It is made of reeds or rushes sewn side by + side, like the basketwork of the country, and dyed with a pattern + in reel and blue. This was all worth describing in the palace; + there were several other buildings attached to it, but none worthy + of any special notice.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">About a mile + beyond Attegrat, upon the other side of the valley, there is + another church, whose site might well have been selected by the + monks of old for a monastery, so charming is the grove in which it + is situated. This grove is of considerable extent, and consists of + several sorts of really lofty trees: there is a thick + undergrowth—with plenty of paths for walking, however—of all sorts + of plants. There <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page216">[pg + 216]</span><a name="Pg216" id="Pg216" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>are some tall bananas with their broad, + graceful leaves, the first I have seen since I left Bombay. There + are roses and honeysuckles, wild figs and acacias; over all of + which a thick cordage of various creepers twines in clusters. To + add to the enjoyment, the whole air is heavy with the fragrance of + the wild jasmine, which grows in great bushes, covered with + clusters of its white star-like flowers. While sitting down with a + party of three or four officers of the 33d enjoying the delightful + shade and the charming fragrance, the priest with several natives + came up to us, and taking seats, or rather squatting—I do not think + an Abyssinian knows how to sit down—beside us, they entered into a + species of conversation with us, inquiring particularly, as do all + the natives, if we were Christians. Presently they made signs they + would like to see some sketches I had been taking; but when they + took them in their hands they were completely puzzled, turned them + upside down and sideways, and even looked behind at the back of the + paper: they could evidently make nothing of them. Presently the + priest, with an air of great self-satisfaction, made signs that he + could write, and demanded if I could do so. I had no writing at + hand, but in my sketch-book I had a column of your paper which I + had cut out for purposes of reference; this I gravely handed over, + and it was received with a perfect shout, first of astonishment, + then of delight. They had never seen such even and perfect + manuscript in their lives. The priest evidently thought I must be a + priest of high grade, and he at once offered to show us the church, + which he did without demanding the usual dollar from any one of the + party. It was so similar to those I have previously described that + I need not say anything about it, except that in the holy of + holies, in place of a frame like a painter’s easel, the shrine was + composed of <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page217">[pg + 217]</span><a name="Pg217" id="Pg217" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>three poles, seven or eight feet long, + inclining towards each other, and meeting at the top like a tripod: + a piece of cloth was wrapped round the upper part of this frame. I + cannot say whether it concealed anything, but it did not appear to + me to do so. Below this a skin was stretched between the three + legs, so as to make a sort of shelf, and upon this were placed a + number of withered flowers. I should mention that, in the inner + chamber of most of these churches, those who have entered with me + have agreed that there was a faint but distinct odour of incense. + It may be, however, that in all of them might have been some + flowers, such as jasmine, the perfumes of which may have deceived + us. It is rather singular that the grape has not been introduced + into a country which would seem by its climate to be well suited + for it. There is no wine to be obtained here; and the sacrament is + administered by squeezing a raisin into a chalice of water. Raisins + are, however, very scarce; and in some churches years have elapsed + without the administration of the sacrament, owing entirely to the + absence of even a single raisin.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In my + description of Attegrat I have omitted to say, that although the + town itself does not contain more than twenty or thirty houses, yet + the population within a short distance is very large; for on the + hill-side, behind the church I have just been describing, there are + numerous villages, which are probably known in the local tongue as + lower and upper Attegrat, new and old, eastern and western + Attegrat. Attegrat, at any rate, is their centre; and judging by + the number of natives one sees in and about the camp, and the + number of houses in the various villages, there must be a + population of six or eight thousand clustered in a circle of three + or four miles from the town.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page218">[pg 218]</span><a name="Pg218" id="Pg218" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have now + described the general features of the place, and shall close and + send off this letter, although it is only four days since I posted + my last, and the next mail is not advertised to start for another + eight days. I shall write again for that post; but my experience + has taught me that the mail here is one of those charming + uncertainties upon which it is impossible to calculate. Besides + this, I may at any moment find myself compelled to push on; and, in + that case, there would be no saying when my next letter would reach + you. I hope, however, to be enabled to give you a full description + of the visit of the King of Tigre, who is expected to-morrow or + next day.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc46" id="toc46"></a> <a name="pdf47" id="pdf47"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Attegrat, February 13th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our grand + Christmas farcio-pantomime, entitled <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Harlequin and the Magic Durbar; or the Ambassador, the + Archbishop, and the Barbarian Cortege,”</span> has been played to + an immensely amused and numerous audience. The title had been + advertised as <span class="tei tei-q">“The King, the Archbishop, + &c.;”</span> but, owing to the unavoidable absence of the + principal actor, the Ambassador was at the last moment substituted + for the King. The opening scene may be described as <span class= + "tei tei-q">“The camp of the Knight Errant, Sir Robert Napier, with + Bluebeard’s Castle in the middle distance, and the town of Attegrat + and the mountains in the background.”</span> Flourish of trumpets! + A herald arrives, the part being enacted by Major Grant, who states + that the King is unable to come in person to wait upon the valiant + Knight, but that he had sent his dear brother, the Grand Vizier, + together with his Archbishop, to assure the Knight of his + friendship. Bustle and excitement in the <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page219">[pg 219]</span><a name="Pg219" id="Pg219" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>camp. A pause. Sound of strange and barbaric + music in the distance. This gradually approaches, and then, from + the rear of Bluebeard’s Castle—of which a full description was + given in my last—enter the head of procession, consisting of—three + men blowing upon cow-horns. These were inserted into the ends of + long sticks, and in appearance were very like the long horns used + by heralds of old. Their sound is lugubrious in the extreme. Next + follows a man of tall stature, beating violently upon a tom-tom. + Next follow the musqueteers of the body-guard; dress—dirty clothes + miscellaneously draped; bare heads frizzled and oiled; arms—any + stage-properties which might come conveniently to hand; old + Portuguese match-locks, and new fowling-pieces from Liège; + double-barrelled guns, and guns with one long and frequently + crooked barrel, the large proportion quite incapable of being + fired. Next follows the Ambassador of the King on a mule, with + gorgeous caparisons of stamped green and red leather, bearing the + tiger rampant, the arms of the great potentate his master. The + Ambassador is clothed like his body-guard, in whity-brown cloth of + coarse cotton, with red ends. With this, as a sign of his dignity, + he envelopes not only his body, but his mouth and chin, as do the + chiefs behind him. He wears round his neck a fur collar with long + tails. The Ambassador of the great King is bareheaded. His hair is + arranged, as is the manner of the chiefs of his people, in a series + of little plaits, which run in parallel lines from his forehead + over the head to the nape of the neck. This style appears to be + copied from the Assyrian bas-relievos in the British Museum. Next + to the Ambassador of the great King rides the Archbishop, upon a + mule similarly caparisoned. The Archbishop is clothed in absolutely + white robes, with <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page220">[pg + 220]</span><a name="Pg220" id="Pg220" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>turban to match. These dignitaries have both + stirrups to their saddles, in which the great-toes only are placed, + to, I should say, the imminent danger of those members if the mule + should stumble. Behind these great personages ride the inferior + chiefs. These, either from a feeling of modesty, or from a lack of + animals, ride two upon each mule. Behind follow the spearmen of the + guard on foot. These are about thirty in number, and are armed with + lance, sickle, and shield. When this procession has fairly wound + round the corner of Bluebeard’s Castle, it halts to await the + arrival of a herald from the good Knight. All this time the + barbaric music continues to sound, and is answered by sister Anne + and Fatimah in the castle, and by the women all over the country, + by a prolonged cry on a single note, kept up with a quavering + modulation for a considerable time. This is a welcome on the part + of the people of the country to the ambassador of the great King. + While the procession halts, the soldiers of the Knight Errant flock + out to inspect them. Irregular chorus of soldiers: <span class= + "tei tei-q">“My eye, Bill, if these are the sort of chaps we’ve + come to fight, we sha’n’t have much trouble with them.”</span> The + remainder of the pantomime I will, for brevity’s sake, describe as + if it had been a real event in the expedition; but the reader must + bear in mind that the whole piece, its accessories and + appointments, were infinitely funny and amusing. After conferring + with the Commander-in-chief, Major Grant and Mr. Speedy went out to + meet the procession, and conducted them through the camp to the + tent of General Merewether. During their progress the wild music + continued to sound, and nearly effected a stampede of the whole of + the animals in camp. In the mean time three companies of the 33d + regiment, two of the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page221">[pg + 221]</span><a name="Pg221" id="Pg221" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>10th N.I., with the bands of both regiments, + were drawn up in line in front of and facing Sir Robert Napier’s + tent, an interval of about fifty yards being left. On the flanks of + the line two squadrons of the 3d N. Cavalry and of the Scinde Horse + were drawn up. When all was ready, the cortége advanced, horns + blowing and tom-toms beating. At their head strode Mr. Speedy, who + is nearly six feet six inches tall, and who carried in his hand a + sword nearly as tall as himself. As the procession approached, the + military bands struck up and the troops saluted. The din at this + moment was astounding. The bands played different tunes, and the + cow-horns and tom-toms played no tune at all. Mr. Speedy with some + trouble marshalled his ragged irregulars in line, and, this + accomplished, led the two ambassadors to the chief’s tent. The tent + was one of the long narrow tents called native routies, and, being + lined with scarlet, made a very good tent for the reception. Sir + Robert Napier was seated with his helmet on at one end. The + ambassadors were introduced by Mr. Speedy, who acted as + interpreter, and after bowing very deeply, they shook hands with + the chief. They then took seats upon the ground beside him; as many + officers as could find room without crowding ranged themselves + along the sides of the tent, and also took their places behind Sir + Robert Napier, the back of the tent being open as well as the + front. The conversation commenced by one of the ambassadors stating + <span class="tei tei-q">“that the King of Tigre, his brother, had + sent him to assure the British Commander-in-chief of his + friendship. The King would have come in person to welcome Sir + Robert, but he had been just solemnly proclaimed king, and it was + strict etiquette that he should not leave his capital for thirty + days afterwards.”</span></p><span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page222">[pg 222]</span><a name="Pg222" id="Pg222" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Sir Robert + Napier replied that he was very glad to receive the assurance of + the King’s friendship; that we ourselves had come with the most + friendly intentions to all in Abyssinia, with the exception only of + those who held our countrymen captives; that in our progress we + should violently interfere with no one; and that, our enterprise + over, we should return at once to our own country. The Ambassador + said <span class="tei tei-q">“that the King and everyone in the + country wished well to our cause; for that Theodore was a tyrant + who had ravaged the whole country, and had murdered thousands of + people, including his own near relations. Therefore, he hoped, that + we should punish him for his wickedness.”</span> He then said + <span class="tei tei-q">“that the King was very anxious to see Sir + Robert, and would be very glad if he would let him know how long he + was likely to remain at Attegrat.”</span> The General answered + <span class="tei tei-q">“that he could not say when he should + leave; that his preparations were not yet completed; but that when + he was able to fix a day for his departure he would, if the King + wished, send a message to let the King know; but that he feared he + could not give sufficient notice for the King to arrive in + time.”</span> The Ambassador then made a statement which showed + that his last question was not <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">bonâ + fide</span></span>, and that the King had really no intention of + coming at all. He said <span class="tei tei-q">“that the King had a + large army—that as long as he was with them they behaved well, but + that he could not leave them, for if he did so they would spread + over the country and oppress the peasantry.”</span> The Chief + replied that, <span class="tei tei-q">“under these circumstances he + could quite understand the King’s reluctance to leave his army, but + that he hoped on his return from Magdala he should have the + pleasure of meeting his Majesty.”</span> There was then a pause in + the conversation, and the Ambassador begged to know when he might + be al<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page223">[pg 223]</span><a name= + "Pg223" id="Pg223" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>lowed to leave. Sir + Robert answered that early in the morning he would show him our + soldiers, and after that he could leave whenever he chose. A few + trifling articles were then presented to the Ambassador and + Archbishop as tokens of friendship, and after again bowing and + shaking hands with Sir Robert Napier, they took their leave, and, + surrounded by their guards, moved off amid the din of music which + had greeted their arrival. The next morning at seven o’clock the + whole of the troops turned out to a general parade. The Ambassadors + were present. After riding along the whole line, the General and + staff took up their position in front, and the 33d regiment were + put through the bayonet exercise, which they performed exceedingly + well, especially when it is considered that it is nearly four + months since they last did it. They then went through the platoon + drill; but the natives did not at all comprehend this. They heard + the snapping of the locks as the Sniders were supposed to be fired + in rapid volleys. When informed what was being done, they entirely + disbelieved it, and plainly said so, stating that no guns could be + fired so quickly as that. It is a very great pity that a small + number of cartridges were not broken up and served out as blank + cartridges; or better still, had a hundred ball cartridges been + served out to ten men, to have been discharged as rapidly as + possible against a rock on the hill-side. Weight is of course + precious, but the lesson those hundred cartridges would have taught + would have been cheaply purchased at any cost. It was emphatically + a penny-wise-and-pound-foolish economy. Colonel Penn’s batteries of + steel guns were then examined, and these fired a few rounds with + blank cartridges.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our savage + visitors, however, were more impressed with <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page224">[pg 224]</span><a name="Pg224" id="Pg224" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the artillery than they had been with + the infantry. The guns, they said, were small, and did not make + much noise; the infantry were pretty to look at, but of no use in a + hilly country, and their long lines would be very easy to shoot at. + These criticisms are very amusing on the part of the ragged + savages, of whom I heard an Irish soldier of the 33d say, + <span class="tei tei-q">“And bedad it’s ashamed I’d be to have to + fire me rifle at such a miserable set of divils intirely. It ’ud be + like killing a definceless brute baste.”</span> The general feeling + in the camp, indeed, upon the subject was that of disappointment. + It was exactly the reverse of <span class="tei tei-q">“the stern + joy that warriors feel in foe-men worthy of their steel.”</span> We + did hope that if we were to fight it would be against something in + some way or another formidable. We had heard a good deal about + Theodore’s army, who were said to be armed with guns and were + drilled, and we did have a faint hope that our foe would not be + utterly contemptible. But the first appearance of Abyssinian + soldiery has quite dispelled any such idea. Mr. Speedy and our + interpreters assure us that they are a fair sample of Abyssinian + troops. Why, Falstaff’s ragged regiment was a disciplined and + regular body to this band of savages. As for their guns, I should + say by their appearance that at least two-thirds would burst at the + very first volley fired, and would be infinitely more dangerous to + themselves than to anyone else.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">If, however, our + visitors thought very little of the infantry and artillery, they + were greatly impressed by the cavalry. The Scinde Horse and 3d + Native Cavalry made several charges, and these, they acknowledged, + would upon level ground be irresistible. The horses themselves also + struck them particularly. In Abyssinia there is nothing which could + by the utmost stretch of courtesy be called a horse. They have + nothing <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page225">[pg + 225]</span><a name="Pg225" id="Pg225" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>but little rawboned ponies, together with + mules and donkeys. The cavalry animals, and those of the staff, + therefore, strike them as being prodigies of strength and beauty. + It is satisfactory to know that one arm of the service at least + found favour in the sight of our military critics, who, however, + qualified even that meed of approbation by adding that it was not + likely that Theodore would fight us upon ground where the cavalry + could charge at all. Our show, therefore, as a show, was completely + thrown away, and they saw nothing of the one thing which would have + impressed them—namely, an exhibition of the powers of the Snider + rifle.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The next day the + embassy took its departure with its barbaric music playing, and the + strange quavering cries of the women answering it over the country. + There is still a possibility that the King of Tigre may himself + come to meet the Commander-in-chief either at Antalo or at some + place on our march thither. I hardly think, however, that he will + do so. These native kings are generally so faithless and + treacherous among themselves that they do not like to trust their + persons into anyone else’s hands. Still, as the Ambassador was + allowed to take his departure unharmed, it is quite upon the cards + that the King will muster up courage and come in.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The following is + a summary of the news from the front, as communicated to us by + General Napier’s orders:</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Letters were received on the 9th instant by General + Merewether from Mr. Rassam and Dr. Blanc, dated Magdala, Jan. 17th, + with enclosures from Mr. and Mrs. Flad, dated King’s Camp, Jan 9th. + All the prisoners are reported well up to date. A detachment of + troops, which had left Magdala on Jan. 8th, had joined the King in + his camp, and had received <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page226">[pg 226]</span><a name="Pg226" id="Pg226" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>charge of a party of about 400 prisoners to + escort from the camp to Magdala. The imprisoned Europeans were + among the number. Their leg-fetters had been removed and handcuffs + substituted, so that they might march. It is said Mr. Rosenthal + would accompany them. The King was using every endeavour to get the + road made, working with his own hands, and making the free + Europeans help. He had made some slight progress, and had arrived + at the bottom of the valley of the Djedda River. Mr. Rassam + calculates he would reach Magdala about the end of February with + his camp, though by abandoning the latter he could any day arrive + there. The people of Dalanta continue submissive; but those of + Davout had rebelled again. His soldiers had suffered from the + scarcity of provisions and transport. It was reported at Magdala + that Menilek, the King of Shoa, had again set out for Magdala, + better prepared to act against Theodorus than on his former visit. + A detailed communication from one of the captives, sent to his + friends in England, and there published, has by some means reached + the King’s camp, and is in the hands of M. Bardel. Apprehensions + are entertained that it may do injury there.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">These letters + add but little to what we knew before. Our last advice told us that + Theodore was only distant a single day’s march from Magdala,—which, + by the way, is spelt Magdalla throughout the summary, but which is + pronounced Māgdālā, the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">a</span></span> being always long in + Amharic,—and that he could at any moment ride in and fetch the + captives confined in that fortress, or could send those with him to + Magdala under a guard. He has chosen, it appears, the latter + alternative. The captives have at least the melancholy satisfaction + of being together. That the news of our coming has in no + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page227">[pg 227]</span><a name= + "Pg227" id="Pg227" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>way influenced the + tyrant’s treatment of them is shown by the fact, that although + their leg-chains have been removed to enable them to march, yet + handcuffs have been substituted in their stead.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From rumours + among the natives, we hear that his cruelties are more atrocious + than ever. Women are being put to death by being thrown down wells, + at the bottom of which spears are fixed point upwards. Men are + executed by having their feet first chopped off, then their hands, + then their legs at the knees, and then being left as food for + wild-beasts. I do not vouch for the truth of these stories; but + they have been brought by deserters from Theodore’s camp, and are + generally believed. I do sincerely trust that in no case shall we + make a treaty with this demon which may save him from the + punishment due to him.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The great + question here is, first, whether Theodore will fight; and secondly, + what we shall do if, when we arrive, he offers to deliver the + prisoners to us as the price of our instant departure. As to the + first point I can only repeat what I have before said, namely, that + I am of opinion that he will fight, and I think fight at Magdala. + The enormous trouble he is taking in conveying cannon with him to + Magdala points conclusively to that result. If he only wished to + carry his baggage and treasure into Magdala he might easily, with + the force at his command, construct a mule-path in a few days at + the latest; but he clings to his guns, and he can only require them + so imperiously that he puts up with months of hardship for their + sake that he may defend Magdala against us. These savages measure + the offensive powers of a gun entirely by its size, and by the + noise it makes. Thus Tigre’s ambassador regarded our mountain train + as mere pop-guns; <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page228">[pg + 228]</span><a name="Pg228" id="Pg228" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>and no doubt Theodore believes that with the + great guns his European workmen have cast, and with the natural + strength of the fortress, he can easily resist the attacks of the + English. I believe that we shall find the King at Magdala, get + there when we will; and that as he will offer no terms that we can + accept, and as he will not assent to the demand for unconditional + surrender which we are certain to make, we shall finally have to + take the place by storm. The next question, as to what our course + will be if he offers to deliver up the captives upon the condition + of our instant retreat, is one which it is very difficult to + predicate upon. No doubt Sir Robert Napier has instructions from + home for his guidance under such a contingency; but I cannot bring + myself to believe that these terms would be acceded to.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">And now as to + gossip about this place. The Abyssinians are celebrated by + travellers in their country as being an intelligent people. + Intelligent is by no means the word, nor is sharp nor cute; they + are simply the most extortionate thieves that the sun’s light ever + shone on. Formerly the necessaries of life were extraordinarily + cheap here. Mercher, the Tigre chief who acts as interpreter, tells + me that, as an example, fowls could be purchased at forty for a + dollar. I venture to say that, at the present moment, it is the + dearest place in the habitable globe. I have seen three eggs + offered for a dollar. This was, however, too much to be stood, and + at present seven is the tariff; that is, as nearly as possible, + eightpence apiece for very little eggs. An ordinary-sized fowl + costs a dollar; and with great bargaining two very small and skinny + ones can be obtained for that sum. Two pumpkins can be bought for a + dollar: for a quart of milk a dollar is demanded, and I have seen + it given. The commissariat give a dollar for <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page229">[pg 229]</span><a name="Pg229" id="Pg229" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>about seventeen pounds of grain: if we + buy it for our horses in the camp—which we are obliged to do, as + there are no rations issued for our baggage-animals—we have to give + a dollar for about twelve pounds. The price of a good mule before + we came here was seven or eight dollars; this had risen to + thirty-two or thirty-three, at which the 3d Cavalry bought a + considerable number, and to thirty-seven, the average price at + which Captain Griffiths, of the Transport Train, purchased a good + many. General Merewether, however, by one of those masterly + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">coups</span></span> for which he is so + distinguished, has suddenly raised the market price 25 per cent, by + giving fifty dollars each for a lot of forty, among which were some + very indifferent animals. After this, of course, fifty will be the + current price, until General Merewether makes another purchase for + the public service, after which there is no predicting the price at + which they will probably arrive. It is all very well to say that + they are cheaper here than they are in Egypt; that has, as far as I + can see, nothing whatever to do with the question, any more than it + would be to say they are cheaper than at the North Pole. The people + were willing to sell them at thirty-seven dollars for picked + animals; why, then, spoil the market by giving fifty? It is urged + that we are in want of mules, and that, by offering even more than + they ask, we shall induce them to send in larger quantities; but I + cannot agree that it is so. We were before paying 700 per cent more + than their ordinary price, and this would be sufficient temptation + to owners of any mules within a hundred miles—and good mules are + not common—to have brought them in. Every mule fit for the purpose + would have come in, and by paying 900 per cent we can obtain no + more. One source of irritation has been, I am happy to say, if not + put down, at <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page230">[pg + 230]</span><a name="Pg230" id="Pg230" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>least rebuked. After the parade the other day + the Commander-in-chief rode to the church, attended by most of the + mounted officers. The usual demand of a dollar a-head was made, + which Sir Robert very properly refused to pay, and through the + interpreter said a few appropriate words to the priest as to + money-changers in the temple. He refused, he said, upon that ground + to allow the charge of a dollar a-head to be paid, but promised + that upon his return from Magdala he would present an altar-cloth + at the church.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have not + mentioned that oxen, for which even at the enormously-enhanced + prices at Senafe we paid six and a-half dollars, are here charged + sixteen and seventeen dollars; and this with the plains in many + cases containing thousands upon thousands. Of course it is a great + question as to how far we ought to put up with such extortion as + this. It is certain that the French, under similar circumstances, + would not do so; but then the success of the French against native + populations has not upon the whole been brilliant; their case + therefore is no argument in its favour. If we chose to take what we + required, and to offer in payment the fair country price, or even + its double, of course we could do so, and could thrash all Tigre if + necessary; but, putting it in the mere pecuniary light, would it + pay? Much as I hate extortion, dearly as I should like to punish + the nation of thieves through whom we are passing, I yet do not + think it would pay. It is hard to be cheated by a half-naked + savage; but it is better to put up with it than to undergo the + amount of labour, anxiety, and loss which savages could in our + present circumstances entail upon us. They are at present driving a + thriving trade by selling us part of the roofs of their houses. + This sounds strange, but is absolutely the fact. Between this and + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page231">[pg 231]</span><a name= + "Pg231" id="Pg231" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Senafe—a distance of + forty miles—not a single tree is to be met with which could be used + for telegraph-poles: the engineers were completely at a nonplus. At + last we struck upon the expedient of buying poles from the natives, + and an offer was made to give them a dollar for every six poles. + Since then Mr. Speedy, who has undertaken the negotiation, has a + complete levée of natives with poles. These poles are perfectly + straight, and must be fourteen feet long; they are slight, much + slighter than ordinary English hop-poles, and they are very thin + towards the upper extremity. The natives use them for the roofs of + their houses; but where they get them from, or what tree furnishes + them, is at present a mystery; certainly I have seen no tree since + my arrival in this country which grows at all in the same way. Some + of these poles look freshly cut, but others are old and have + evidently been used in the roofs of houses. They would not be + nearly strong enough for an ordinary telegraph-wire, but can easily + enough carry the fine copper-wire used here.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Speedy has + been requested by the Commander-in-chief to wear the native attire; + and his appearance, although no doubt very imposing to the native + mind, is yet extremely comic to a European eye. Imagine a gentleman + six feet and a half high, with spectacles, wearing a red + handkerchief over his head, and shading himself with a native straw + umbrella. Round his neck he wears the fur collar with tails, to + which I have already alluded as part of a chief’s insignia; over + his shoulders is the native white-cloth wrapping, with red ends; + below this is a long coloured-silk garment; and below all this the + British trousers and boots. Mr. Speedy is a capital fellow, and a + general favourite with everyone; but <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page232">[pg 232]</span><a name="Pg232" id="Pg232" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>his appearance at present is almost + irresistibly inducive of laughter.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The climate of + this place is as near perfection as possible. It is not so hot as + Senafe during the day, although even here in a single bell-tent the + thermometer registered 110° to-day at eleven o’clock. But there is + almost always a fresh breeze; and excepting from nine to twelve, + when the wind generally drops, it is never too hot for walking. At + night it is not so cold as at Senafe; for although the glass goes + down to 36° or 37°, there is no wind at night and very little dew, + so that one does not feel the cold as one did at Senafe. It is + really a delightful climate; and although 110° in a tent sounds + hot, the sensation of heat is nothing approaching that of a sultry + July day in England. There is no game here, with the exception of + hares, which are very plentiful. Major Fanshawe, of the 33d, went + out the other afternoon with his gun, and returned in a couple of + hours with a bag of nineteen hares, an almost unprecedented amount + of sport for two hours’ shooting in an unpreserved country. The + natives bring in leopard-skins for sale: where they shoot them I + cannot say. They do not find any purchasers, for the amount of + baggage allowed is so small, and will be smaller beyond Antalo, + that no one will burden themselves with a pound of unnecessary + weight.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The 33d went + forward three days ago, and Sir Robert Napier himself starts for + Antalo on the 17th instant. If the 4th regiment arrive in time they + will accompany him. I close my letter rather hastily, as I have + just heard there is a mail expected to go three days before the + regular packet.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + Commander-in-chief has, since he started from the sea, shown every + desire to forward our objects in every way. <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page233">[pg 233]</span><a name="Pg233" id="Pg233" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>We were invited to be present at the + reception of the Tigre ambassador, and Sir Robert very kindly sent + in a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">précis</span></span> of the information + received from Magdala. I am very glad, for the sake of my readers + as well as myself, that in future I shall have no fear of either + being kept in the dark or of being debarred from accompanying any + expedition which may be on foot. I am still more glad to be able to + say that the position of the foreign commissioners has been also + improved. They are now all forward here, and one of the Prussian + officers has been placed upon the Chief’s personal staff. This is + much more as it should be. Now that we are fairly moving forward, + bets are being freely exchanged as to the date of our arrival at + Magdala. The first of May is the favourite time. I hardly think we + shall be there as soon as that, but must delay the discussion of + the pros and cons until my next.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc48" id="toc48"></a> <a name="pdf49" id="pdf49"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Attegrat, February 17th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Since I sent my + letter off three days ago, nothing has occurred of any great + importance; at the same time there is scarce a day passes here + without some event of more or less interest taking place. A wing + and the head-quarters of the 4th regiment have marched in, and have + taken the place of the 33d regiment. The Beloochees are here, and a + portion of these have already pushed on to improve the road. On the + 15th we had quite a sensation in camp. Two elephants arrived, and + 2000 or 3000 of the natives flocked around in a very few minutes. + At first they kept at a prudent distance, but, emboldened by the + sight of the Europeans standing round and giving the animals pieces + of biscuit, they gradually closed in, and talked in tones of + admiration and wonder, showing <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page234">[pg 234]</span><a name="Pg234" id="Pg234" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>all their white teeth, as is their custom. + Presently, however, one of the elephants, not approving of all this + hubbub, wheeled suddenly round, his trunk high in the air, and + trumpeting loudly. An instant scattering of the natives took place, + the crowd flying in all directions as if an infernal-machine had + exploded in their midst. They gradually reassembled, but never + again ventured to get within familiar distance of the elephants. + Yesterday the G-14 battery of Artillery arrived, and created an + admiration among the natives that our mountain guns had quite + failed to arouse. The guns are twelve-pounders, and have been + brought as far as this upon their wheels, a fact which speaks + equally for the practicability of the road and for the energy and + perseverance of its officers and men. In many places the guns had + to leave the road, and to be hauled up difficulties with tackle and + handspikes. At the descent into this valley, which I described in a + former letter, the road cut along the face of the hill was not of + sufficient width for the wheels, and the guns had to be lowered + down the steep descent into the valley bottom with tackle. Three + hours were occupied in getting the six guns down. They will + probably go no further than Antalo upon their carriages, but three + will be thence taken on upon elephants; the other three will, at + any rate for the present, remain here. This camp is in process of + being turned into an entrenched position. The lines have been laid + out by Major Pritchard of the Engineers, and the 4th are at present + at work upon them. That regiment moves on to-morrow, but the next + which takes its place in camp will continue the work. The + entrenchments do not include the whole of the present camp, as the + number of men permanently stationed here will, of course, be much + smaller than at present. The lines will <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page235">[pg 235]</span><a name="Pg235" id="Pg235" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>surround the commissariat stores and a portion + of the water-pools; they also run round the summit of a steep shelf + of rocks in the rear of the camp, and which, when thus + strengthened, might be defended by 200 men against 500 similarly + armed and disciplined, and therefore against any number of + Abyssinians whatever. Even now that we have a strong force here, + the people are exceedingly bumptious, and I have little doubt that + there will be some row of greater or less importance when they see + only a small body of troops stationed here.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Scarcely a day + passes that they do not raise their war-cry about something or + other. Some of the squabbles arise about our cutting grass; others + about wood; others about their insisting upon wandering through the + camp; and blows have been exchanged with fists and sticks upon all + these and several other points. The noble Abyssinian is quite ready + to cut and sell us any quantity of hay, and to charge us an + exceedingly-remunerative price for the same. But although we have + promised, and, indeed, have paid, a round sum for the privilege, + they object strongly to our own men cutting hay, although it is of + no use whatever to themselves. Consequently, a guard is always + obliged to be sent on with the main body of grass-cutters. Any + small parties who may go out in search of forage nearer to the camp + than the regular grass plains are warned off, and driven back by + the natives. There have been numerous rows on this score, and in + some cases the natives have actually set fire to the grass rather + than allow us to cut it. If they dared they would not allow a blade + of grass to be cut except by themselves. The same questions arise + as to wood. They will bring in large quantities of firewood + themselves for sale, but they very strongly object to our men + col<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page236">[pg 236]</span><a name= + "Pg236" id="Pg236" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>lecting it + themselves, although there is not, of course, a shadow of pretence + to say that our collecting dry wood can in any way damage them. + There was a great hullabaloo yesterday on this subject. Two men had + gone out for dry wood, and a priest and two or three natives came + out and ordered them away. The priest told them that the grove + where they were collecting the wood was sacred, and therefore they + must not take it. The men of course did not understand a word he + said, and expressed their determination to carry off their wood. He + then called upon them as Christians to desist, and the men, being + Hindoos, made some gestures of contempt or abhorrence at the name + of Christians. An attack was then made upon them; but many of these + Syces are remarkably strong, active fellows, and in a very short + time the Abyssinians found that they had met with much more than + their match. They set up their rallying-cry, and a number more + natives hurried up, and the Hindoos would have got the worst of it + had not another grass-cutter come up with a gun. The Hindoos then + retired, followed by a crowd of enraged Abyssinians. When they + reached the camp the Abyssinians attempted to follow them in, and + blows had to be freely exchanged before the point of their + exclusion was maintained. The priest alone was admitted, and + instead of conducting himself quietly he ran about shouting and + gesticulating until one of the camp policemen seized him, and, + after a struggle, made him a prisoner. When Sir Robert Napier, who + was out riding, came into camp, he investigated the whole matter; + and, finding that the Syces had been in the wrong by insulting the + religion of the people, he ordered them to have a dozen lashes + each. But here the Abyssinians really showed themselves to be + Christians, for the priest and his witnesses, <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page237">[pg 237]</span><a name="Pg237" id="Pg237" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>all of whom bore marks of having + suffered in the skirmish, knelt down, and said they would not rise + unless the culprits were forgiven, which accordingly they were. + This certainly was a remarkable trait. Here were men who conceived + that themselves and their religion had been insulted, and who had + certainly been well thrashed, really and truly, while their wounds + were still fresh, asking forgiveness for their foes. I fancy very + few European Christians would have done it. It is pleasant to find + a redeeming-point in the character of this nation of extortioners. + It is also to be said for them that they are a very merry people, + and are constantly on a broad grin. Quarrels among themselves are + extremely rare; at least, I have not heard a single dispute since I + arrived in this country.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Abyssinians, + too, are men with a strong sporting tendency. They bet freely on + the speed of a horse or the accuracy of their aim. They bet, too, + with conditions under which very few Englishmen would make a wager. + They choose a judge, and the judge, whoever wins, takes the stakes, + the loser of course paying. This system of betting, where one may + lose and cannot win, is, as far as I am aware, without a precedent, + and would do more, if introduced into England, to put down gambling + than all the laws that Parliament could pass would do in a hundred + years. Another thing to be said for them is that those who know + them most like them best, and a stronger argument in their favour + than this could hardly be used. Still, undoubtedly, they are fond + of fighting, partly perhaps for its own sake, and partly because it + would be manifestly impossible for them to put the whole of the + hard work of the place on the shoulders of the women and children + upon the plea of being warriors, and therefore privi<span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page238">[pg 238]</span><a name="Pg238" id="Pg238" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>leged to do nothing, unless they really + did do a little fighting occasionally.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This morning + there was another row, which at one time really threatened to come + to fighting. One of the natives came inside our lines when the men + were at work upon the entrenchments. The policeman—a soldier armed + with a stick—warned him back; but he refused to go. Having spoken + several times, the sentry pushed him. Whereupon the native drew his + sword and rushed upon the soldier, who met him, however, with a + tremendous blow of his stick, which knocked him backwards into the + ditch with a broken head. The man set up his war-cry, and the + natives flocked up, shouting and brandishing their spears. They + refused to retire when ordered by the officer to do so, and + continued to threaten an attack until Colonel Cameron ordered fifty + of his men to load and fix bayonets, and told the natives that + unless they retired he should order his men to advance. This was + sufficient; and the place was speedily cleared. These little + fracas, although trifling in themselves, sufficiently show that the + natives are an extremely independent race, and are quite ready for + a fight upon the smallest provocation. At present we are so strong + as to render any open attack upon their part a hopeless proceeding; + but when this post is left with only four or five hundred men I + should not be at all surprised if the natives came to blows with us + upon some trifling matter or other. The three cannon which are to + be left here will no doubt have a salutary effect. The natives are + astonished at them, and say that they are much bigger than those of + Theodore.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Three of the + officers of the 4th regiment saw, the other day, at Fokado, an + operation which was described by Bruce, <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page239">[pg 239]</span><a name="Pg239" id="Pg239" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>but which has been denied by all subsequent + travellers, and by the Abyssinians themselves. This was the + operation of cutting a steak from the body of a living ox. They + came upon the natives just as they were in the act of performing + it. The unfortunate bullock was thrown down, and its four legs were + tied together. The operator then cut an incision in the skin near + the spine, just behind the hip-joint. He blew into this to separate + the skin from the flesh, and then cut two other incisions at right + angles to the first, and then lifted a flap of skin four or five + inches square. From this he cut out a lump of flesh, cutting with + the knife under the skin, so that the amount of flesh taken out was + larger than the portion uncovered. The operator then filled up the + hole with cow-dung, replaced the flap of skin, plastered it up with + mud, untied the feet of the poor animal, which had kept up a low + moaning while the operation was going on, gave it a kick to make it + get up, and the whole thing was over. I should mention that the + operator cut two or three gashes in the neighbourhood of the wound, + apparently as a sign that the animal had been operated upon in that + part. The officers observed that several of the other cattle of the + same herd were marked in a precisely similar manner. They returned + in half an hour, and found the animal walking about and feeding + quietly. I have not mentioned that it bled very little at the time + the operation was being performed. It certainly is very singular + that, after so many years, Bruce’s story, which has been always + considered as a traveller’s tale, should have been confirmed. All + travellers have denied it. Mr. Speedy, who was a year among them, + tells us that he never saw or heard of its being done, and that the + Abyssinians, of whom he had inquired respecting the truth of + Bruce’s <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page240">[pg + 240]</span><a name="Pg240" id="Pg240" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>statement, had always most indignantly denied + it, and indeed had asserted that it would be entirely contrary to + their religion, for that they strictly keep the Mosaic law, to eat + no meat unless the throat of the animal had been cut and the blood + allowed to escape. Anatomists have denied the possibility of an + animal when such an operation had been performed being able to walk + afterwards. Here, however, was the indisputable fact. The operation + was performed, and the ox did walk afterwards. It is true that it + might not have been done by Abyssinians proper. The party may have + been some wandering tribe belonging to the low country who might + have come up for trading purposes. It is very unfortunate that + neither Mr. Speedy nor any of the interpreters were at hand to find + out the exact tribe to which these savages belonged.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I am unable to + give you any reliable account of Major Grant’s visit to the King of + Tigre. He was, I know, hospitably received, and the horsemen of the + King performed various feats, such as riding in and out between + poles, and cutting at them; but I am unable to say more, as Sir + Robert Napier, no doubt for some good reason of which I am + ignorant, refused to allow us to see Major Grant’s report, or to + have a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">précis</span></span> of it given to us. It is + still reported that the King himself is coming to meet the General, + and a place two days on our march towards Antalo is mentioned as + the appointed place. We even hear that the King has set out from + Adowa for that spot; but I confess that until I see his sable + Majesty I shall not have much faith in his coming. Still, these + very slippery men always do exactly the thing which one would + expect that they would not do; and on this theory only it is quite + possible that Kassa may appear <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">in propriâ + personâ</span></span>. If he does come it will no doubt be a very + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page241">[pg 241]</span><a name= + "Pg241" id="Pg241" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>much more stately + affair than the pantomime I described in my last letter, and I hope + that our elephants and cannon will open his Majesty’s eyes to the + fact that we are a people whom it would be vastly safer to leave + alone.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have been over + to-day to the weekly fair at Attegrat. I was also there last + Monday, but had no space to give to its description in my last + letter. A more amusing sight I have seldom or never seen. Some two + or three thousand people must have been present. The fair or + market, as I suppose it should be called, is held upon a flat rocky + slope on the other side of the village, and this is packed so close + that one moves about among the squatting and standing groups with + difficulty. At one end is the cattle-fair. The number each grazier + brings into market is not large (seldom over two or three), and + there they stand in little quiet groups surrounded by their master + and several of his friends, and submitting to be felt, pinched, and + examined as well as the best-behaved English cow would do. Here, + too, are the donkeys, sturdy little beasts, not much bigger than a + Newfoundland dog, but which will carry nearly as great a weight as + a mule. I wonder our Transport Corps does not buy a lot of them for + carrying commissariat stores. They will take two bags each, that is + 150 pounds’ weight, and require no saddles, for the bags are merely + laid upon their broad little backs and strapped there with a few + strips of hide; they require no grain, and very little hay, and + cost only five or six dollars. Any number of them might be + purchased. These, like the oxen, stand very quietly, and appear + perfectly indifferent as to any possible change in their ownership. + They not unfrequently have young ones by their side, little round + rough beasts with disproportionately-long ears and shaggy coats. + The goats ap<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page242">[pg + 242]</span><a name="Pg242" id="Pg242" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>pear to take matters with less indifference. + Their masters endeavour to keep them in little circles, with their + heads towards the centre; but they are continually trying to escape + from this arrangement, and to make a bolt for it. They keep up a + constant bleating as a protest against the whole proceeding. Near + to them is the grain-market. Here are men and women with their + grain-bags, made of skins of goats sewn up, and with only an + opening at the neck. They sit about everywhere, while the buyers + walk about among them and inspect the samples with a gravity and + intentness which would do no discredit to Mark-lane. Their + purchases probably will not exceed two or three pounds’ weight, but + they are as careful over the matter as a brewer would be who was + going to make a bid for a ship’s cargo. The grain is almost + entirely barley, and splendid barley too. There are beside, + however, a variety of other grain, of which I do not know the + names. The natives distil a spirit from their barley, which is said + to be something between gin and hollands in flavour. I have not yet + tasted any. Very thick is the throng round a Parsee belonging to + the commissariat, who is buying up all he can get for Government at + a dollar for nineteen pounds. Near him is another little crowd: + here another commissariat <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">employé</span></span> is similarly engaged in + buying up ghee—that is, clarified or boiled butter—for the native + troops. It does not look very nice, and what does not make the + sight the pleasanter is, that the women, when they have emptied the + jars into the commissariat casks, invariably wipe them out with + their hands, and then plaster the remainder upon their heads. An + Abyssinian does not consider himself properly dressed unless his + hair is shining with oil, not put on or rubbed on, but plastered + on, and running down his neck as <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page243">[pg 243]</span><a name="Pg243" id="Pg243" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>the sun melts it. The idea is not, according + to our notions, pleasant, but it is a matter of taste. When an + Abyssinian really wants to make a great effect he uses butter, not + ghee, and puts it on until his head is as white as that of a London + footman. Then he is conscious that he has indeed done it, and walks + with a dignity befitting his appearance. There were several swells + of the period so got up at the market, and as they stood under the + shelter of their straw umbrellas—for the sun would melt it and + destroy the whole effect—I could not but wonder at and admire the + different forms which human vanity takes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Further on was + the cloth mart. Here were women and men selling the black blankets + which almost all women here wear, in addition to the ornamented + skins, which form the only garments of the Senafe women. These + blankets, which are very large, are worn wrapped round the body, + and secured on one shoulder by a large iron pin. The blankets are + coarse and thin, and have but little warmth. Officers have, + however, bought large numbers for their servants, who feel the cold + at night much. When we are stationary for a few days the followers + construct some sort of tents with gunny-bags and clothes, but upon + the march they have, of course, to sleep in the open air. Near to + the vendors of blankets for the women are the sellers of the + white-cotton cloth for the men. These are always men; I have seen + no women engaged in selling cloth. I have no doubt they carry it to + the market, but the men take the sale into their own hands. This + is, perhaps, the busiest part of the fair. But beyond this we come + to the largest and by far the most amusing portion of all. This is + the miscellaneous market. Vegetables and herbs occupy by far the + largest share of this. Here are women and girls with herbs of every + sort and <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page244">[pg + 244]</span><a name="Pg244" id="Pg244" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>kind, of very few indeed of which I had any + previous knowledge. Here, too, are women with tobacco, very coarse, + and broken up roughly, instead of being cut. The tobacco, of + course, is carried in the skins, which appear to be the receptacles + for everything in this country. Here are men with salt, in shape + and appearance exceedingly like a mower’s whetstone. These serve as + money, and are laid out upon the ground at so many for a dollar, + but if the salesman sees a European approaching he will abstract a + portion, and demand a dollar for less than half of the number which + should be given for that amount. Here are men selling the blue + string, which all Christians wear round their neck in token of + their faith. Here are men selling the great iron pins, with a rough + attempt at ornament upon their heads, which all women use to fasten + their blankets upon their shoulders. Here are women with strings of + beads, and pumpkins, and watercresses, and dried herbs, and + chillies, and honey, and garlic, and potatoes, and young onions for + sale. A miscellaneous catalogue, and sold quite as miscellaneously, + for the goods are sold by barter more than for money, and each + vendor will bring in half-a-dozen small baskets, which she places + before her to contain the various articles which she may receive in + exchange. Thus, for her beads she may get some grain, a few bulbs + of garlic, and a bar or two of salt. Some of these, again, she will + barter for a pumpkin, a chicken, and some dried herbs; and so the + commerce is carried on. Imagine a large number of these dark-faced, + scantily-dressed people, very grave over their purchases, but very + merry, as is their wont, in their conversation with each other, the + men generally walking about, the women squatting behind their + wares, always in <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page245">[pg + 245]</span><a name="Pg245" id="Pg245" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>groups, and laughing, chattering, and looking + after their children—strange little potbellied black figures, with + half of their heads shaved, and their sole garment a very small + piece of goatskin on their shoulder. Some of the girls are, as I + have already said, really pretty, with beautiful brown eyes. They + have no objection to be looked at and admired. They pretend, of + course, to be very shy, and half hide their faces, and look the + other way; but really are very amused and a good deal gratified + when a European pauses to look at them. It is singular how similar + is the constitution of the female mind in savage and in civilised + countries. An English beauty certainly does not betray any + consciousness of being looked at and admired, excepting, of course, + if she be a milkmaid; but she is no doubt equally conscious, and + perhaps just as pleased—except that the sensation is more a matter + of course—as is the dark-eyed and dark-skinned Abyssinian girl + sitting in her scanty leathern garment and shell-ornamented wrapper + in the market at Attegrat.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I do not know + when the rainy season begins; indeed, it is a moot point, + authorities varying in their dates from April to July; but I know + we had a thunderstorm here the other day which nearly washed us out + of camp. It began at three o’clock in the afternoon, and found us + quite unprepared, as we have had so many threatening-looking skies + that we had ceased to believe in rain. However, this time there was + no mistake about it. It came up in a dense black cloud from behind + the mountain beyond Attegrat. The thunder roared, the lightning was + for a while terrific, and for about an hour a tremendous storm of + rain and hail poured down upon us. Being an old campaigner, one of + my first cares upon pitching my tent had been to have a trench dug + round it; but very <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page246">[pg + 246]</span><a name="Pg246" id="Pg246" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>many officers, relying upon the fine weather, + had neglected taking this precaution. Knowing what the state of + things would be, immediately the rain ceased I sallied out. The + camp was completely under water. As I have mentioned in a former + letter, it is pitched upon the gradual slope of a hill, and down + this slope a perfect stream of water came nearly two inches deep. + As the rain held up, a few figures might be observed peering out of + their tents to examine the skies, and as soon as it was quite + certain that the rain was over, the camp, which had five minutes + before appeared perfectly deserted, was like an ant-hill suddenly + disturbed. Great was the devastation the flood had wrought. Through + many of the tents it had swept in a flood two inches deep, soaking + everything placed upon the ground. Here we saw the servants + bringing out a bed, which, having been placed upon the ground, was + drenched with water; here was another party bringing out hay with + which some particular man had carefully carpeted his tent; here was + an officer emptying out his trunks to see if the things at the + bottom had suffered. As I wandered about I met Major Minion, the + principal commissariat-officer here. He was hastening to the Chief + for authority to issue first-class flour instead of second to the + troops, as a great deal of the first quality had got wetted, and + must be issued at once to prevent its being spoiled. Of course the + native followers and others who had no tents suffered most of all; + and the camp in a short time presented the appearance of undergoing + a general washing-day, so many were the garments hung out to dry. + Of course, in accordance with the old proverb of shutting the door + after the horse was stolen, there was at once a great demand for + picks and shovels, and everyone who had not already done so set to + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page247">[pg 247]</span><a name= + "Pg247" id="Pg247" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>work at digging a + trench round their tents. The night after the storm was much less + cold than the preceding one had been, and the whole country looks + fresher and brighter for the washing. And now as to our most + absorbing topic, the advance. It takes place positively to-morrow. + Sir Robert Napier himself goes on, and is accompanied by the + Artillery, 3d Native Cavalry, five companies of the 4th King’s Own, + and the remaining three companies of the 10th Native Infantry. The + Beloochees were also to have gone forward, but there is not + sufficient transport, and they will follow in a day or two. The + little party of Engineers also go forward with the photographic and + signalling apparatus. The two elephants will also form part of the + train. The march hence to Antalo is eight days’ journey, which are + divided as follows: Mai Wahiz, 13 miles; Ad Abaga, 15; Dongolo, 12; + Agula, 14; Dowlo, 19; Haig Kullat, 9; Afzool, 9; Antalo, 5: total, + 96 miles. Colonel Phayre, who has again gone ahead, reports that + the road presents no great difficulties; but it does not appear as + if the first day’s march were by any means an easy business, for + the baggage-guard of the 33d regiment, which left here at nine + o’clock in the morning, did not arrive at its destination until six + o’clock on the following morning. The Commander-in-chief rode out + next day, and found the road really impracticable at two or three + places. He was exceedingly angry that the corps which has gone + ahead nominally to make this road should have left it in such a + state. A party of the Beloochees were at once set on, and it is to + be hoped that by to-morrow they will have made it passable. The + party of Bombay Sappers and Miners, who have done such good work in + the pass, have gone on to-day, with instructions to keep a day’s + march ahead of the Chief. They will improve, <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page248">[pg 248]</span><a name="Pg248" id="Pg248" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>as far as they can, any very difficult + places; but as they will have to progress as fast as the troops, + they will of course be able to do very little. The last two days’ + march even Colonel Phayre reports to be exceedingly difficult, as, + instead of the flat sheets of sandstone over which much of the + preceding day’s journey passes, we here have to cross sheets of + bare limestone, upon which horses can stand with difficulty. He + states that it will be necessary to strew soil or sand upon the + rocks to make them at all passable. It is evident, therefore, that + we shall have some serious difficulties to encounter even between + this and Antalo; still, we may expect to be at that town by the end + of the month. From thence to Magdala it is 160 miles, or + thereabouts; for it is impossible to reckon within twenty miles in + a country where the mountains and gorges necessitate such constant + windings. I mentioned in my last letter that bets were freely + offered and taken that we arrive at Magdala by the 15th of April. + The whole question is one of provision and transport; and the most + casual examination of the question will show that it will be a very + long time before the provision for the onward march can be + collected at Antalo. I related in my letters a month since how hard + a task it was to feed the troops at Senafe and along the pass, and + to accumulate provisions in our advance to Attegrat. Senafe is only + five days’ march from Zulla; Antalo is sixteen; and, allowing for + the mules to stop one day at Senafe, and one at Attegrat, to rest, + which would be absolutely necessary, it is eighteen days from + Zulla. We shall have twice as many troops to feed at Antalo as we + had at Senafe; and as it is three times as long a journey, it will + require six times as many transport-animals to feed the troops at + Antalo now to what were required to feed the former force + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page249">[pg 249]</span><a name= + "Pg249" id="Pg249" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>at Senafe. In + addition to this, we shall have a body of troops at Attegrat, and + another at Senafe, to feed. The Transport Train is more efficient + now than it was a month since, but it is not greatly more numerous, + as the number of fresh arrivals is almost balanced by the number of + mules going daily into hospital, broken down with over-work, bad + feeding, and sore backs brought on by the pack-saddles. The fact of + the road being now practicable for carts to Senafe, is also an + assistance to the Transport Train; but I confess that I cannot see + how they will manage to provision all the line, much less to + accumulate stores. It is, we have just seen, eighteen days from + Zulla to Antalo. Supposing that the mules go regularly up and down, + stopping two days at each end to rest, it will take them forty days + to make the circuit. Putting the number of available + transport-animals at 16,000, which is over the mark, there would be + only four hundred a-day to start from the sea-coast. When it is + remembered that these four hundred animals would have to carry + their own food for those places at which grain cannot be obtained, + that they have to carry the rations for their drivers for the forty + days, that they have to provision the different minor posts, + together with Senafe and Attegrat, it will be seen that the + quantity of provisions which will reach Antalo daily will be by no + means excessive. And yet, before we can move forward from Antalo, + on a journey which, going and returning, and with a pause of a week + at Magdala, can hardly be calculated as under two months, we must + have accumulated there a sufficient amount of provisions for the + whole time we may be absent; and this not only for the troops and + animals who go, but for the force which will remain there during + our absence. We must also have a <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page250">[pg 250]</span><a name="Pg250" id="Pg250" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>supply accumulated at the posts along the + road, as we shall take so large a portion of the transport-animals + in our further advance, that we must be sure that a stock has + accumulated sufficient to last some time. I hear that the number of + mules which will go forward with us from Antalo will be about 6000, + with two months’ provisions for the column and a certain amount for + themselves. Following out the calculation I have made, we prove + mathematically that we never can accumulate this 6000 mule-loads at + Antalo. Mathematical proofs, fortunately, occasionally are + falsified by facts. It was mathematically proved that no steamer + could ever cross the Atlantic. The feat was, however, somehow + accomplished; and I have no doubt but that, in the teeth of + mathematics, we shall somehow or other accumulate provisions at + Antalo, and shall march on to Magdala; but it must be some time + first. I think the 1st of May to be the very earliest date at which + we can hope to leave Antalo. Of course much will depend upon the + fruitfulness of the country in the immediate vicinity of that town. + If we can only obtain sufficient grain to feed our animals, and to + lay in a store of provender for them for the advance, it will + greatly lessen our difficulties. As far as we have already come, + such has not been the case. Even the extreme prices we have given + have barely purchased sufficient grain for the daily supply, and + animals upon the route have to be fed upon grain brought from + Bombay. Still, we must hope for better things. The date of our + advance depends almost entirely upon the state of the grain-market + at Antalo. We start to-morrow morning at half-past six, and that + means that we must be up and moving before five. I must therefore + close this letter, but shall write again in time to save the post + from Ad Abaga, where I believe we shall halt for a day.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page251">[pg 251]</span><a name= + "Pg251" id="Pg251" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc50" id= + "toc50"></a> <a name="pdf51" id="pdf51"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Ad Abaga, Feb. 20th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I cannot say + that starting a convoy of baggage-mules off at half-past six in the + morning is a pleasant operation. The order was <span class= + "tei tei-q">“that all animals not off by half-past six must wait + until after the departure of the column at seven;”</span> that is, + allowing for delays, that they would not be able to start until + eight. I acceded to the suggestion of my travelling-companion that + we should get our mules off early. At five we were up, completed + our packing, had a cup of chocolate and a speedy wash, and then + struck our tent, which was wet through with the heavy dew. Folding + this up and getting it into a sack meant to contain it only when + dry, was a long operation, trying to the temper and very + destructive to the finger-nails. However, it and all our final + preparations, including the loading the animals, were completed in + time, and we were fairly <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">en route</span></span> at twenty minutes past + six. We have long since come to the conclusion that the only way to + get our baggage along is to be our own baggage-guard, and one or + other of us, generally both, accompany it the whole distance. In + this way we got into camp in the afternoon, from an hour and a half + to two hours earlier than if we had trusted it only to the servants + and drivers, and had we ridden on at our own pace we should only + have had to wait doing nothing, and without a shelter, for three or + four hours. On the present occasion my friend started with the + baggage and I remained behind to see the column start. It was a + pretty sight, and must have astonished the natives not a little. + First came the 3d Native Cavalry, about three hundred strong, in + their soldierly blue-and-silver uni<span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page252">[pg 252]</span><a name="Pg252" id="Pg252" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>forms. This regiment has had no easy time of + it since their arrival at Attegrat, for we are exceedingly short of + cavalry, and since the Scinde Horse went on, the 3d have had to + furnish all the guards and escorts. For some days they had only + eighteen men left in camp. I hear that two hundred horses have + arrived at Zulla as remounts in the place of those they have lost + by the disease. The strength of the regiment will then be raised to + its original number of nearly five hundred sabres. I mentioned in a + letter, some time since, that this regiment had been looked upon + with some disfavour by the authorities for having started from + Bombay without the baggage-animals with which, according to the + terms of their agreement, they should have furnished themselves. + This fault they have done their best to remedy by purchasing every + mule they could get. They have now nearly made up their number, and + upon the present march only had to draw thirty-five + transport-animals, which they hope in a few days to be able to + dispense with. Next to the 3d Native Cavalry came the Artillery, + who had, at the last moment, received orders to take four guns + instead of three. The guns were all drawn by eight horses. The + greater part of the horses of this battery are very light grays, + and two of the guns are horsed entirely by grays. They are in + admirable condition, and look exceedingly well. Next followed the + little party of Engineers. Behind them came the 4th King’s Own, in + their light-brown, or rather dust-coloured suits, with their band + playing the <span class="tei tei-q">“Red, White, and Blue.”</span> + Colonel Cameron sets an excellent example to his men and officers + by having his horse led, and by always marching at their head. The + line was closed by the 10th Native Infantry, their band playing + <span class="tei tei-q">“Nelly Bligh.”</span> After the troops came + the head of a long <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page253">[pg + 253]</span><a name="Pg253" id="Pg253" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>line of baggage-animals. Having seen the + column pass, I rode on and rejoined my baggage.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The road, as + usual, leads over the plateau, with occasional steep ascents and + descents. Two of these ascents turned out quite impracticable for + artillery, and the road as made reflects great discredit upon those + who went on in command of the pioneer force to make the way. The + roads are made with short, sharp zigzags, where it is impossible + for the horses to draw. Had not the artillery been accompanied by a + strong force of infantry it would have been impossible to have got + the guns up. As it was, the guns were pulled up the straight places + by the horses aided by the men, and then the horses were taken out, + the guns unlimbered, and the gun was dragged up first, round the + curve, by the infantry with ropes, and the limbers were taken up + afterwards. The work of getting the guns up one of these ascents + occupied over two hours. Sir R. Napier is naturally extremely + angry, as, had he not been informed by the officer in advance that + the road was perfectly practicable, he would of course have sent on + a strong working-party some days previously. I reached Mai Wahiz at + half-past twelve, the 3d Cavalry having got in half-an-hour before + me. In the afternoon we had another severe thunderstorm, with heavy + rain, which fortunately only lasted about half-an-hour. Our camp at + Mai Wahiz, instead of being, as usual, on a plain, or rather a + slight rise near the plain, was placed upon a hill. I hear that in + future we are always to encamp on a hill, or at any rate, as far as + possible, in a defensible position. This shows that our Chief + places exceedingly little faith in any protestations the Tigre king + may make, and that he thinks that, even if he does come in to the + durbar at this place, yet that he is not to be trusted <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page254">[pg 254]</span><a name="Pg254" id="Pg254" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>out of sight. Everything at Mai Wahiz is + very scarce, and forage dearer than ever. I had to pay two dollars + for about eighteen pounds of barley for my baggage-animals, that + is, just sixpence a pound. Hay is equally dear. The commissariat + served out no hay to the transport-animals, and all that they had + after a hard day’s work, with the prospect of another equally hard + on the morrow, was three pounds of grain each.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From the foot of + the hill we rode for some distance along a wide valley, with water + in several places, and a good deal of cultivated ground. Then, + after three or four miles of undulating plain we arrived at our + camping-ground at a little after three o’clock. The natives here + must be either a more warlike people than those whose villages we + have passed since entering the country, or they must have much more + warlike neighbours. For the villages are almost always surrounded + by strong walls, and one or two were perched on eminences, and + defended by walls and towers. One very curious castle we passed + strongly resembling the old baronial castles one meets with in + southern Scotland and the north of England. This was situated upon + the edge of a precipice, and the rocks went sheer down from three + sides of its walls for fifty or sixty feet. It must be impregnable + in a country like this, where cannon are all but unknown. Another + fort, which certainly looked of European construction, and if not + must unquestionably have been built from a picture of a European + fort, was perched upon the top of the mountain near where we + descended into the valley. The precipice at its foot was at least a + thousand feet down, but curiously enough the fort was in a sort of + hollow, higher rocks at the distance of only a hundred yards on + either side commanding <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page255">[pg + 255]</span><a name="Pg255" id="Pg255" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>it. If a European designed it, he certainly + did not choose its position. It was a round fort, of perhaps fifty + feet high, but it was difficult to judge its height from our + position on the plain so much below it. Its diameter was about + equal to its height. It had regular lines of loopholes, and + appeared to have been built by some robber-chief to enable him to + swoop down upon the caravans of traders journeying up and down the + road we had just come. This camp is at about the same elevation as + that at Mai Wahiz, and the climate is even more charming than that + of Attegrat, for the heat is less during the day, and the cold last + night was not at all equal to that which we experienced there. The + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">on + dit</span></span> is that the King cannot arrive to-day, but will + come to-morrow, and that we shall move out early and pitch our camp + upon a plain six miles from here, and there receive him + properly.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc52" id="toc52"></a> <a name="pdf53" id="pdf53"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Dongolo, Feb. 26th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The King of + Tigre has turned out to be a living entity and not a mythical + being, as we had begun to consider him. He was to have paid us a + visit at Attegrat, but he sent us an ambassador in his place, and + no one thought that we should ever hear any more of the King. + However, he sent to say that he would meet us upon a plain near Ad + Abaga, and we journeyed there, rather incredulous but still + hopeful. The King was to have been at the appointed spot upon the + day after we had reached Ad Abaga; but messengers sent out brought + news that, although it was currently reported that he had started + from Adowa, he had certainly not arrived anywhere in the + neighbourhood. As it was most important that we should see the + King, and remain upon friendly terms <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page256">[pg 256]</span><a name="Pg256" id="Pg256" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>with him, and as it was certain that if he had + started to meet us, and found that we had gone on without stopping + to see him, he would feel grievously affronted, the + Commander-in-chief determined to wait. Fortunately, any delay we + might experience could be of no importance to us, as it will be + impossible to move forward from Antalo until a large stock of + provisions are accumulated there, and whether we waited a week at + Ad Abaga or at Antalo was perfectly immaterial. Wait accordingly we + did for three days, before any reliable news reached us. At last we + heard for certain, as we believed, that the King was at Hanzein, + twelve miles off. This was on Saturday, and the messenger said that + of course the King would not move on Sunday, but that he would come + in on Monday morning to Mai Dehar, the appointed meeting-place.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On Sunday Major + Grant, Captain Moore, and Mr. Speedy set out to meet the King, and + accompany him to the meeting-place. They rode out to Hanzein, and + found a considerable body of armed men there, and some of the + princes. They were told that the King was five miles further on, + and five good miles they rode, and, again inquiring for his + Majesty’s whereabouts, found that the miles must have been Irish + ones, for that the King was still five miles further on. They + decided to return, and at Hanzein had another interview with the + men in authority there. These worthies tried very hard to induce + them to concede, on the part of Sir Robert Napier, that he would + come as far as Hanzein to meet the King. Their object in this was, + of course, to enhance the dignity of the King in the eyes of his + own people, by making us come as far out of our way as possible to + meet him; Major Grant, however, altogether refused to concede this + point. He stated <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page257">[pg + 257]</span><a name="Pg257" id="Pg257" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>that we had already waited four days, and that + unless the King moved forward at once, Sir Robert Napier would + proceed upon his journey without seeing him. Major Grant then + started with Major Pritchard of the Engineers, who had gone out to + Hanzein with Lieutenant Morgan and his party of signallers, to + return to camp. As it was dark when they started, they of course + lost their way, and wandered about for some hours, leading their + horses, which had two or three awkward falls. They arrived in camp + at two o’clock in the morning. They did not pass any of the + signallers’ posts on their way, and consequently Lieutenant Morgan + and his men remained up all night, to flash the news across the + hills of the hour of the King’s starting from Hanzein. Captain + Moore and Mr. Speedy remained at Hanzein until the next day, and + were hospitably, if not agreeably, entertained, with a repast, + consisting of a large dish of half-baked bread, over which melted + fat had been poured with a liberal hand. While they were occupied + in endeavouring to find a morsel less saturated with fat than the + rest, two or three of the chiefs showed them how the food should be + eaten, by thrusting some exceedingly dirty hands into the mess, + rolling up a large ball, and cramming it into their mouths. Captain + Moore underwent a strong internal struggle, but conquered his + desire to rush into the open air, and nobly shut his eyes and + followed the example. Mr. Speedy—whose residence in Abyssinia has + rendered him the reverse of dainty in matters of food—had already + set-to with the grave complacency of a man who enjoys his + repast.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On Monday a + messenger came in who reported that the King had really arrived at + Hanzein, and would come on to Mai Dehar early next morning. A + native in our pay having <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page258">[pg + 258]</span><a name="Pg258" id="Pg258" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>verified this report, orders were issued for a + move at daylight the next morning. The party was to consist of the + four guns of Murray’s battery, a squadron of 3d Native Cavalry, + four companies of the 4th Regiment, one company of the 10th Native + Infantry, the party of Engineers with their signalling and + photographing apparatus, and two elephants. Although Mai Dehar was + only five miles off, the troops were ordered to take their tents + and baggage, as it was uncertain at what hour the proceedings might + be over; and as the next march on to this place was only ten miles, + they would be able to march straight through the next day, and + would therefore lose no time by sleeping at Mai Dehar.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">By seven o’clock + we were all out of Ad Abaga, and by half-past nine the tents were + pitched at Mai Dehar, which was not more than a four-mile march + distant. Mai Dehar is a basin of about half a mile in diameter, + with gradually-sloping sides, and possesses no picturesque effect + whatever. A small stream runs through it, and the whole basin is + covered with a long thick growth of hay. Orders were at once issued + that no fires should be lighted or pipes allowed until the grass + was all cut in the immediate vicinity of the tents, and for some + little distance round the horses. This, of course, was a work which + occupied some time; and at about eleven, before the fires were + fairly alight, Mr. Speedy, who had gone straight on to meet the + King, rode into camp with news that he had left him half an hour + before, and that in a very few minutes he would arrive. In ten + minutes a dark mass of figures showed upon the crest of the + opposite rise of the valley, and presently a tent of bright scarlet + colour rose in their midst, and showed that the King was present + among them. Mr. Speedy again rode off to say that the + Commander-<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page259">[pg + 259]</span><a name="Pg259" id="Pg259" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>in-chief would move forward to meet him in an + hour. By that time the men had breakfasted, and at half-past + twelve, when the bugle sounded the assembly, all were ready for any + work they might be called on to do. They were formed in line a few + hundred yards behind the tent, which had been pitched near the + little stream for the durbar. Major Grant, Captain Moore, and Mr. + Speedy now rode forward again towards the King’s tent, accompanied + by an escort of 3d Native Cavalry. Several officers who were not on + duty, but who had come over on leave from the camp at Ad Abaga, + also rode upon the flank of the cavalry, and among them I took my + place.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The native army + was ranged in line on both sides of the royal tent; they were not + formed in any regular order, but stood thickly together, with the + extremities of their line advanced in the form of the crescent of a + young moon. There was no pressing or noise; all stood perfectly + quiet as we advanced, and it was evident at once that we were in + the presence of a greatly more formidable body of men than we had + given Abyssinia credit for possessing. The only sound that broke + the silence was the beating of a number of drums. These I + afterwards had an opportunity of examining, and found them to be of + the same shape, and as nearly as possible the same size, as our own + kettledrums. Instead of being of metal, they were of thin wood, and + were covered with skins with the hair on in the place of parchment. + They were carried one on each side of a mule. There were six mules + so laden, and the drums were beaten, some with small sticks, some + with large and heavy ones. These last served as big drums, and kept + time to the constant beating of the small ones. They played a sort + of tune which, if rather monotonous, was by no means unmusical. The + principal drummer had a red umbrella held <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page260">[pg 260]</span><a name="Pg260" id="Pg260" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>over his head—a distinction enjoyed by no + other person except his Majesty himself. When we had arrived within + forty or fifty yards of the King’s tent we halted. Major Grant and + his party alighted from their horses and entered the royal tent, + and the cavalry were drawn up in line parallel to the road the King + would pass down on his way to the stream. Major Grant’s mission was + to inform the King that Sir Robert Napier was ready, and would + advance to meet him as soon as he saw the King had left his tent. + Some personages in authority now gave some orders, and a body of + four or five hundred men took their places a short distance in + front of the royal tent. Some of these men were on foot, some + mounted; the great majority were armed with guns of some kind, and + in addition carried shield and sword. The remainder had lances. + There was a far greater variety of costume, and much more + brilliancy of colour, among their body than we had any notion of + seeing in Abyssinia. The majority, of course, had the whitey-brown + cotton cloth of the country, with generally the red ends and fur + tippets with long ends which are distinctive of a warrior of rank. + Many, too, had a lion’s mane over their shoulders, which is a sign + that they have slain many enemies in battle. Very many too had on + long shirts of state, reaching to the knees, and made of + richly-brocaded silks, generally green, blue, or red, with yellow + flowers. Some, the greatest dandies of all, wore mantles of velvet, + violet being the prevailing colour. These reached a little below + the waist, and were then cut into long tails of peculiar pattern, + which, moreover, was always similar. These, who gave orders, and + who were probably generals, were not bareheaded, as were all the + rest of the Abyssinians, but had a coloured silk-handkerchief over + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page261">[pg 261]</span><a name= + "Pg261" id="Pg261" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and around the head, + Bedouin fashion, and falling down upon the neck, with a sort of + fillet or coronet of metal, which looked like tin, but may have + been silver, round their foreheads. Of this body, which was + evidently composed of chiefs and warriors of distinction, about + equal numbers were mounted and on foot. Very many of the mules + carried double, which is here considered by no means an + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">infra-dig.</span></span> method of travelling. + In front of this body of men the band of drums took up their + station, and in the rear five or six men blowing an instrument + somewhat resembling a clarionet in appearance, except that it has + only one note. Some of them were, however, pitched a tone above the + others, so that the general result, although not so musical as that + of the drums, was yet not discordant.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The King now + came out of his tent, and mounted a mule. A dozen or so princes and + personal attendants rode or walked near him, and two attendants + walked one on each side, leaning against the mule, and supporting + him, as it were, in his saddle. One held a large Magenta-silk + umbrella over the King’s head. Kassa is a man of seven or eight and + twenty. He was plainly dressed in a swathing of native cloth, the + only distinction between himself and an ordinary warrior being + that, in place of a broad scarlet end, it had a sort of Cashmere + pattern. The princes had similar borders to their robes. The King + wore a fur tippet, and the cloth was wrapped round and round him, + so that his arms were not visible, and he looked a mere bunch as he + sat upon his mule. The cloth was brought up round his chin and + mouth. He was bareheaded; his hair was plaited in lines from the + forehead to the back of the head, in the peculiar manner I have + before described, and which exactly resembles that upon some + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page262">[pg 262]</span><a name= + "Pg262" id="Pg262" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of the Assyrian + wall-paintings in the British Museum. These plaits are each tied at + the end, and form a little bunch of tails at the back of the neck. + Kassa has a mild and rather irresolute face, and was evidently + nervous at the unaccustomed ceremony he was about to go through. I + believe that his face does not belie his character, and that he is + quite guided by three or four of his principal advisers. Puppet + kings are not confined to Abyssinia. Major Grant rode by the side + of the King, and conversed with him through the medium of Mercher, + the interpreter. The mule ridden by the King, and those of the + principal personages, all had the gay green-and-red embossed + leather trappings I described as adorning the mule ridden by the + ambassador who came in to Attegrat. There were several priests in + the train, distinguished as usual by their turbans and the + whiteness of their robes. In my description of the King’s dress I + have said nothing of his leggings or shoes, for the reason that he, + as well as everyone of his nation, had bare legs and feet. + Immediately the King had started, I closed-in with the unattached + officers behind him, and the 3d Native Cavalry came on behind us. + In the rear of them, and keeping a perfect line, came the main body + of native troops—horsemen in front, footmen behind them. The whole + effect was extremely picturesque, and, as seen from the opposite + side of the valley, must have been most striking. As soon as we + were in motion, we saw Sir Robert Napier approaching from the + opposite camp. He rode in a howdah upon an elephant with scarlet + trappings; behind followed the other elephant, and his staff rode + around him. The troops remained in a line at some little distance + in rear of the durbar tent, the 10th Native Infantry being drawn up + as a guard of honour in front of the tent. When <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page263">[pg 263]</span><a name="Pg263" id="Pg263" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>we were about three-quarters of the + distance down the slope upon our side of the hill, the body-guard + in front of the King halted, and fell back upon each side, leaving + a road, through which the King and his personal following rode. The + 3d Native Cavalry followed, but the natives formed line again in + the rear and halted. Sir Robert Napier arrived first at the stream, + but the elephant refused to cross, and the General then alighted + and mounted his horse, and again advanced to meet the King, who had + by this time crossed the stream. Sir Robert and the King shook + hands, and then rode together to the durbar tent. There everyone + dismounted, and as many as the tent would accommodate entered. I + was fortunate enough to be one of these. The King and the + Commander-in-chief took seats in two chairs. Five of the principal + princes sat upon the ground. The King’s shield-and-spear-bearer + stood behind him, and several other native attendants stood near. + About a dozen European officers ranged themselves round the sides + of the tent. At the moment of entering the tent, the guard of + honour and the artillery fired a salute, which caused a great + commotion among the horses, and I have no doubt rather startled and + alarmed the King of Tigre’s army, which had all remained upon the + other side of the stream. Throughout the day the greatest + discipline prevailed upon this point, not a single man crossing the + stream, with the exception only of the King’s personal + attendants.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The conversation + between Sir Robert Napier and the King was interpreted by Mercher + and by his brother, who formed part of the King’s retinue. Both + these brothers are Tigre chiefs, who were curiously enough sent to + Bombay to be educated, and to learn the English language. The + conversation <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page264">[pg + 264]</span><a name="Pg264" id="Pg264" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>was of the most formal kind. Sir Robert + expressed his hope that the King was not fatigued with his journey. + The King replied that he was never tired when he came to see his + friends. Here the conversation languished a little, and then Sir + Robert expressed the pleasure that we English, who sent + missionaries to all parts of the world, experienced at finding a + Christian nation here in the midst of Africa. To this the King + replied, that he did not wish to see strangers in his country, but + that if strangers came he preferred that they should be Christians. + This was a decided damper; but Sir Robert, after a pause, rallied + nobly, and said that we had a most friendly feeling for all the + Abyssinians, with the exception only of the bad men who held our + countrymen captive. The King replied that Theodore was our common + enemy, and that he hoped we should punish him as he deserved. The + General then inquired the names of the princes present, and found + that one was an elder brother, and two were uncles of the King. + These were all intelligent-looking men, with fine faces for + Abyssinians. The King’s elder brother is a much more resolute and + determined-looking man than the King. These men, as well as the + King, we could now see, upon their sitting down and getting their + arms a little free from the wrappings of cloth, had very large + golden armlets, or rather wrist-ornaments, of exactly the same + shape as a lady’s gauntlet. Sir Robert now said that he wished to + present the King with some presents, to demonstrate our friendship. + These were a double-barrelled rifle by Purday, some handsome + Bohemian glass vases, and the horse upon which he himself rode when + he met the King. By the way, I question much if the King will ever + trust himself upon the horse, which is a high-spirited and rather + restive animal, and which upon our leaving the <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page265">[pg 265]</span><a name="Pg265" id="Pg265" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>tent completely overpowered the native + to whom it had been delivered, and had finally to be taken up to + the royal tent by its own syce. The meeting now was over, that is, + it was over as a public meeting, and all retired from the tent + except two or three confidential officers on either side. What had + preceded was merely a formal opening, and the interview was now + really interesting. I am, of course, unable to give the details, + but the general substance was that the King now entirely threw + aside his reserve, and said that he hoped for our support in the + disputes which will arise upon Theodore’s defeat. Sir Robert Napier + <span class="tei tei-q">“assured the King of our friendship, but + stated that his Queen had sent him here solely with the design of + rescuing our countrymen, but that she had given him strict orders + on no account to take any part in the unfortunate dissensions which + were taking place in the country. We have, as we marched onward to + this place, seen everywhere the signs of these unfortunate wars, in + the fields lying uncultivated, and in the deserted villages, and he + hoped to hear that with the destruction of the power of Theodore, + this most unfortunate state of things would cease. At the same time + he assured the King that he might rely that if we could give him no + support we should also abstain from giving any assistance whatever + to his rivals.”</span> Kassa afterwards, in answer to a request of + the Chief, promised that he would send messengers to the principal + towns upon our route, ordering the inhabitants to do all in their + power to furnish us with provisions and supplies. After the + interview was over, the King and princes were supplied with wine + and spirits, not, however, without some difficulty, for there are + very few bottles of wine remaining in the camp of the advancing + column. There was then a pause of an hour or two, after + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page266">[pg 266]</span><a name= + "Pg266" id="Pg266" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>which our troops were + paraded, and went through a few manœuvres before the King. These + were not of much interest, as no powder was expended, and the + ground, being full of deep holes, hidden by long grass, was most + unfavourable for the movements of either artillery or cavalry. The + action of the Armstrongs was also explained to the King. After this + the troops returned to camp, and Sir Robert Napier and his staff + crossed the stream with the King to pay a return visit to the royal + tent. The natives, who had been clustered by the stream, all rose + at his approach, and the drums struck up their strange music. We + were now enabled, riding as we were among a dense throng of + natives, to judge more accurately of their number and appearance + than we had hitherto been able to do. The general opinion was, that + there must have been about three thousand, three-quarters of whom + were armed with guns. They were a fine, active-looking set of men, + and in a rough country would make formidable antagonists even for + trained soldiers. These men are known to be brave, and are fairly + armed, but Theodore’s army has always defeated them. Theodore’s + army must, therefore, have been by no means despicable antagonists; + and although that army has now dwindled to four or five thousand + men, it is probable that that four or five thousand are the most + desperate characters and the most warlike warriors of his original + force. Strong as Magdala naturally is, and garrisoned by a few + thousand such men as these, it may possibly be a hard nut even for + a British army to crack.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Arrived at the + King’s tent, which is of considerable size, Sir Robert Napier + entered with the King, princes, and as many of his staff as the + tent would accommodate, and took seats upon the carpeted ground. + Here refreshments, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page267">[pg + 267]</span><a name="Pg267" id="Pg267" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>small flat bread, and native liquors of + fermented honey and herbs, and native spirits, were served round. + Sir Robert Napier was declared by the King to be a good warrior, + and the King presented him with his own lion-mane tippet, his own + sword, shield, and spear, the mule he had himself ridden at the + interview, with its saddle and trappings, and a silver gauntlet. + After about half an hour the Commander-in-chief took his leave.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">As I rode up + towards the tent I was smoking a cigar, and this attracted the + greatest attention and astonishment from the natives who were + crowding round. It was evident they had never seen a cigar before. + I gave away several to the chiefs, who, however, were quite in the + dark as to what to do with them when they had got them. I offered + them my cigar to light those I had given them from; but they had no + idea what to do with it, and were on the point of putting it into + one of their mouths, when I rescued it, and struck a light with a + vesuvian. This astonished them even more than the cigar. However, + they lit their cigars, and smoked them with manifest content, + occasionally lending them to their friends for a whiff. Numbers of + applications then poured in upon me, which, however, I was obliged + to refuse, for cigars are very precious articles here. I left when + Sir Robert Napier did, as it was nearly six o’clock, and I wished + to get back to Ad Abaga, where I had left my tent and baggage, + before it became too dark to follow the track.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The opinion of + the King and his principal warriors respecting our troops is + similar to that expressed by the natives at the review at Attegrat, + namely, that our troops would be invincible upon a plain, but that + they would have no fear of us upon a mountain side. Our cannon are + not so large as they <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page268">[pg + 268]</span><a name="Pg268" id="Pg268" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>had expected to see; but they said that they + had heard great things of our rockets, which rush through the air + with a tremendous noise, and destroy those who are not killed by + their explosion by a noxious vapour which is fatal to man and + beast. They are thoroughly convinced that we have great power of + enchantment; and this will probably do more to retain their + neutrality than any fear of our arms would do. They say that by + enchantment we have tamed the elephants; by enchantment we have + kept the rain from falling near the sea-coast, and interrupting our + work in the pass; by enchantment we have made the locusts disappear + the moment we came up on to the high country; and therefore that + were we offended, we should by enchantment also prevent rain from + falling over the whole country, and thus create a dreadful famine + in the land.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">As the natives + are impressed by enchantment, and are not at all impressed by our + soldiers, I should propose that in any future war of the same kind + there should be an officer appointed under the title of magician to + the forces, and that he should have subordinate officers as + assistant magicians and deputy-assistant magicians. The duty of + these officers should be to exhibit signs and wonders. Mr. Anderson + might perhaps be induced to undertake the control of the machine + tricks and general magic; Mr. Home would do the spiritual business, + and could astonish the native mind with the sight of elephants + floating in the air, or could terrify a negro potentate by tweaking + his nose at a durbar by invisible fingers. One of the + deputy-assistant magicians should be a pyrotechnist, whose duty + would be to light up the camp with unearthly fire, and to place + strange portents in the midnight sky. Certainly, had this + department been organised before the expe<span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page269">[pg 269]</span><a name="Pg269" id="Pg269" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>dition began, and had a few of its officers + been present, we might have dispensed with several regiments, and + the cost of the expedition would have been greatly lessened, + however munificent the remuneration of the chiefs of the department + might have been. Should Government adopt this suggestion, and I + have no doubt they will do so, I shall expect a valuable + appointment in the corps.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the day after + the last mail left we were favoured with a <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">précis</span></span> + of the letters from Magdala which had arrived three days + previously. They contained nothing of any great importance. Gobayze + and Menelek were both near King Theodore; so near, indeed, that the + camp-fires of the former could be seen from Theodore’s camp. They + were both evidently afraid to attack him; but Gobayze had sent him + an insulting message, and Theodore had at once put the unfortunate + herald to death. Theodore was making very slow progress; and it was + thought that he would not arrive until the end of March at Magdala. + He was ten hours’ ride from that fortress, which would mean about + twenty-five miles. Even if he travels at half the reported rate of + speed, he will be there before us. The opinion is general now that + we shall have a fight at the end of our journey.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc54" id="toc54"></a> <a name="pdf55" id="pdf55"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Doullo, February 29. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We arrived here + yesterday afternoon, after three days’ marching. On the 26th the + troops went from Mai Dehar to Dongollo, fifteen miles; on the 27th + to Agula, nine miles; and on the 28th to Doullo, fifteen miles. The + road has lain across a much more undulating country than that over + which we have previously passed. On the first day’s march we had + one <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page270">[pg 270]</span><a name= + "Pg270" id="Pg270" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>very long and steep + descent. This tried the mules; and many were the upsets of packs, + many the tired animals who lay down, and refused to move until + unsaddled, upon the narrow ledge. Fortunately, however, although + long and steep, it was straight, and so the artillery got down with + comparative ease and without any accident. The camp was in a + valley, where the water was very good, and where there was one pool + of deep water nearly 200 yards long, which afforded excellent + bathing. There were a good many fish in it, and several were caught + of over a pound in weight. This is curious, as it shows that the + Abyssinians are by no means skilful fishermen; for Mr. Speedy tells + me that during his residence in the country he never saw nor heard + of a fish more than three inches long being caught.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The next day’s + march was a short and rather easy one. The last was not only long, + but it had some very long and difficult ascents and descents; + indeed, it was one succession of hills for the whole distance. The + country has throughout been thinly populated. We have come across + several ruined villages, which have probably been destroyed in the + constant wars which are raging in this country. The churches, + however, have generally been respected; and whenever a really fine + clump of trees is to be seen, there is always a church to be found + in their shade. Where the villages have been destroyed, the + churches are of course deserted, and are more or less falling into + ruins. This camp is pitched in a wide valley, and we are procuring + more supplies than usual from the natives. Yesterday we bought + 1500lb. of grain, and to-day we are obtaining an even larger + supply. Grass, however, is comparatively scarce, and the water is + by no means good. Cattle, as usual, are in abundance. We are + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page271">[pg 271]</span><a name= + "Pg271" id="Pg271" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>going on again + to-morrow, and shall reach the camp beyond Antalo in two days. I + hear very good accounts of the state of the supplies there, and am + told that we have bought, in addition to grain, &c., + considerable quantities of flour and bread.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This is by far + the most satisfactory intelligence we have yet received since we + landed in Abyssinia, and if these supplies continue to come in, it + will very greatly shorten the duration of our campaign. The great + question is to accumulate supplies sufficient for us to march to + Magdala. As long as we have to consume the supplies the mules bring + up, the process of accumulation must be a very long one. Flour and + meat are the only two articles of diet which are of material + weight. The preserved vegetables, tea, sugar, and salt, amount + together to under six ounces per diem per man; and one mule would + therefore carry the rations of 500 men of these articles. When we + reach Antalo and join the advanced force our number will not exceed + 1200 Europeans, and 50 mules will carry three weeks’ rations for + them, exclusive of meat, which we can always purchase, flour, and + rum. At present the ration of rum is one drachm a day, but it is + possible that at any moment this may be stopped; and it is at all + events probable that no rum will be carried beyond Antalo. If, + therefore, we can purchase flour and meat along the march, and the + Europeans of the advance force number 3000, we shall only require + six mules a day to carry their rations, or 186 mules for a month’s + supply. Of course this calculation will not hold good for our + journey, as it is most improbable that we shall succeed in getting + flour or bread along the road; but if we can only buy sufficient + quantities for our consumption while we are stopping at Antalo, it + will be an immense <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page272">[pg + 272]</span><a name="Pg272" id="Pg272" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>relief to the transport-train. The native + bread is not at all bad. It is baked in cakes about an inch thick + and eight inches in diameter. It is dark in colour, and sometimes + sour; but I have tasted some as good bread as one could wish to + eat. The price I have paid here is a dollar for five of these + loaves, weighing about a pound and a half each. Wood is very + scarce, a dollar being charged for four bundles of sticks weighing + under ten pounds a bundle.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The pause of + to-day is made partly to enable the artillery to repair a wheel of + one of their store-wagons, which broke in coming down the last + descent, partly to rest the animals, which now, after four days’ + work, greatly needed a day’s rest. We require more cavalry with us. + The 3d Native Cavalry have had tremendously hard work; what with + marching and picket-duty, the men never get more than two nights in + the week in bed, and sometimes not more than one. It is surprising + how the animals, with so great an amount of work and with + insufficient food, keep in such good condition as they are at + present. All the animals will, however, be improved by a short stay + at Antalo.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The weather has + very much changed since we left Ad Abaga. We have a strong and + really cold north-wind blowing all day, and between five and eight + o’clock of an evening it is most cutting. At night it drops; and + the temperature is then not so cold as it was either at Senafe or + Attegrat. The natives generally are affected with coughs and colds; + and the amount of coughing which goes on at night in the vicinity + of our tent is both astonishing and disagreeable.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Sir Charles + Staveley came up from Zulla, and joined us on the day of our + leaving Ad Abaga. He has taken command of the advanced brigade. I + hear that, owing to the quantities <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page273">[pg 273]</span><a name="Pg273" id="Pg273" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>of stores taken up by the trains which + accompanied General Collings’s column and our own, the supplies at + Senafe and other places along the line were very low; so much so, + that the troops who were ordered up have been kept back at Zulla + until further stores could be accumulated. I trust that by this + time a large stock has been collected at Senafe, as Captain + <a name="corr273" id="corr273" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">Griffiths</span>, + who commanded the portion of the transport-train which went forward + with General Collings’s column, has just passed downward with his + mules to fetch up another supply.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc56" id="toc56"></a> <a name="pdf57" id="pdf57"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Antalo, March 4th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When I wrote, + four days since, from Doullo, I mentioned that we had news of flour + and other stores being purchased in considerable quantities at + Antalo, and that if supplies continued to come in, the prospects of + the expedition would be altogether changed. But I certainly did not + anticipate that we should be able to advance from here under three + weeks or a month. Two days before we arrived here, indeed, there + were rumours of a much earlier move than had been anticipated; and + an order was issued that in all probability we should be compelled + to go forward without either rum, tea, or sugar. Of course everyone + is prepared to make great sacrifices, and to submit to every + hardship which may be absolutely necessary. Every reduction of kit, + the dismissal of the native followers, and the diminution of + carriage, has been received not only without a murmur, but with + actual satisfaction by everyone. The reductions were felt to be + necessary; for in no other way would it be possible to penetrate + this inhospitable country. It was considered pro<span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page274">[pg 274]</span><a name="Pg274" id="Pg274" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>bable that beyond Lât we should have to + go without tents, and with only a blanket and one change of + clothes; and I have not heard an expression of repugnance or + complaint at the prospect: but this order to proceed without rum, + tea, or sugar, was received with the gravest dissatisfaction by men + and officers of all ranks. It was not as a matter of comfort that + it was objected to, but as a matter of health. Rum is an article + difficult of carriage, and can be dispensed with; sugar also might + be done without; but tea is upon a campaign like this an absolute + necessity, if the men are to have no rum. It is not that the tea is + nice, for it certainly is not; it is positively nasty. It bears no + resemblance whatever to the herb we drink in England as tea; at the + same time it is an absolute essential. The mornings and nights are + very cold; the troops are on the move at half-past five in the + morning, when everything is saturated with dew; they are hard at + work all day; their picket-duty is very severe; and to give them + with their breakfast in the morning and their supper at the end of + their day’s work nothing but cold water to drink, was simply to + send the whole army into hospital. Were the water good, the results + might not have been so disastrous, but it is almost always drawn + from stagnant pools, and is the reverse of wholesome. Officers + generally drink the water only after filtering, but the men never + think of taking the trouble. Boiling the water is no doubt even + superior in its effect to filtering it; but the men would certainly + not boil the water if they had nothing to put in it. They would + drink nothing but impure water, which in a country where the + changes in temperature are so great and so sudden as they are here, + would most certainly bring on dysentery in a very short time. The + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page275">[pg 275]</span><a name= + "Pg275" id="Pg275" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>privation of their + rum would in itself be much felt among the men. They have all been + some years in India, where rum forms part of a soldier’s regular + ration. They are accustomed to its use, and no doubt would feel + somewhat its sudden privation. Had they been troops fresh from + England, it would have mattered comparatively little. Our + adjutant-general, Colonel Thesiger, is a total abstainer; I believe + that is the polite expression for a teetotaller. Of course his + theory is, that men are much better without spirits; and the + present will be a great opportunity for testing the effects of a + Maine Law. I believe, however, that officers and men would give up + their rum and their sugar without a murmur where tea is but allowed + them; but I am sure that bad water alone will lay up half the + troops. Nor will there be any saving in carriage by leaving tea + behind. We shall have to take a greater weight of medicines than we + should of the tea. The reason given for thus leaving behind what + everyone feels to be, bad as it is, the most precious portion of + our stores, was, that we can procure any amount of native carriage, + but that the natives will only carry flour and grain, and refuse to + undertake the carriage of rum, sugar, and tea, partly because of + the greater responsibility, and partly because of the shape of the + barrels and casks, which are inconvenient to pack upon the little + oxen and donkeys. Everyone asks, Have we, then, no carriage of our + own? Have we no available transport-mules besides those carrying + the tents? One mule will carry from 150 to 200 pounds weight, which + would give 500 men their day’s ration of tea. The advance brigade + will not contain much over 3000 men, and consequently fifty mules + will carry two months’ rations of tea for them; and it is an + extraordinary <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page276">[pg + 276]</span><a name="Pg276" id="Pg276" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>thing if, out of the 15,000 baggage-animals in + the transport-train, fifty cannot be spared to carry an article + which everyone feels to be all-important both for the health and + comfort of the troops. I am sure that Sir Robert Napier himself + consented with the greatest reluctance to the proposition, and that + he shares in the general satisfaction which is experienced at the + report that the commissariat find that some of the natives are + consenting to take on tea, if it is packed in skins or in stout + bags, and that therefore a proportion of tea will at any rate be + taken on.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I began this + letter by saying that the news of the purchase of flour and grain + would, if true, completely change the whole prospect of the + expedition. I am happy to say that the news we heard is now more + than verified, and that the commissariat are purchasing at the rate + of 12,000 lbs. or 14,000 lbs. of flour a day. In addition to this, + they are buying sufficient bread for the daily consumption of the + troops. Very large convoys of native baggage-animals have also come + in during the last few days, and we find ourselves with two months’ + provision of all kinds, and four months’ provision of flour already + in hand for the whole of the advanced division. This is a more + forward state of things than I expected to have seen in another two + months, and entirely alters the prospect of the campaign. Had we + found the same dearth of food here which we experienced all along + the line, we must have waited so long that it would have been an + impossibility to have returned before the rain. Now there is a + chance of our so doing.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Sanguine spirits + even mention the 1st of April as the probable day for reaching + Magdala. If we are there at the end of the first week in April, we + shall, should Theodore <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page277">[pg + 277]</span><a name="Pg277" id="Pg277" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>await us and no hitch occur, start upon our + return march by the 15th, pass through this place by the 7th of + May, and be at Zulla in another month, that is, before the rains + begin. I have, however, seen so many unforeseen obstacles, so many + unavoidable delays occur since we first landed, that I cannot put + any faith in this sudden express speed. When we arrived here two + days since, the intention was that we should march on the 6th. I + hear that our advance is now postponed, at any rate, until the 9th; + and I should not be surprised if we were here for a week after that + date. The fact is, no one knows anything whatever about the roads + in front of us. All travellers, with one exception, who have + journeyed here have turned to the right at Antalo, and have gone + down the valley to Socota. The one exception is Dr. Krapf, and his + report of the road is far too vague to be of any practical utility. + It only requires a look to the southward of this camp to give us a + notion of the country we are going to travel through. A chain of + rugged mountains with peak rising beyond peak extends in an + unbroken line. Over or through them we have somehow to get, and at + present we know next to nothing about them.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A pioneer force + of two companies of the 33d, some of the Beloochees, some Punjaub + pioneers, sappers, and miners, and the Scinde horse have gone on + ahead to make roads, and the reports we have at present received + from them are the reverse of favourable.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Lât is our next + halting-place; and until we hear that the road to that place is + practicable for mules, it is no use advancing from here, where we + are living upon the country and consuming no stores.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I now return to + the narrative of our march here. From <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page278">[pg 278]</span><a name="Pg278" id="Pg278" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Doullo to Icullot was only an eight-miles’ + march across a by-no-means difficult country. The next march on to + this place was twelve miles, and the country was very undulating; + but such an excellent road had been made by the advanced brigade + that the mules had no difficulty whatever in crossing it. This road + was better than anything we have traversed since we left Senafe. + The Commander-in-chief, however, did not go by the same route, but + turned off to visit Chalicote, a considerable town lying a little + distance out of the line of march.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Chalicote is + more prettily situated than any town we have hitherto seen. It lies + in a well-wooded valley. The church is in precisely the same style + as that at Attegrat, with frescoes drawn apparently by the same + hand. I so fully described the church at Attegrat, that any details + respecting this would be superfluous.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Chief was + accompanied by some of his staff, and by Mr. Holmes, of the British + Museum, who had hoped to acquire some old manuscripts there, + especially as he had heard of one said to be of great value, and + bound in silver gilt. It turned out, however, to be quite modern; + and up to the present time Mr. Holmes, although he has been + indefatigable in his search, has not succeeded in finding any + manuscript of great antiquity; he has, however, heard of some at a + place a little distant from our line of march, which he hopes to + acquire upon our return, and which, if they correspond to the + description given of them, will be of very great value. It was + hardly to be expected that, skirting as the line of march does upon + the very edge of the table-land of Abyssinia—a portion of the + country remote from the principal towns, and exposed to the + constant devastation of bor<span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page279">[pg 279]</span><a name="Pg279" id="Pg279" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>der warfare—any remains of very great + antiquity would be met with. Had our course led through Axoum, + which was the capital of that strange Greek possession of which + Adulis or Zulla was the seaport, we might have expected some + interesting discoveries to have taken place. There is yet a + possibility that we may see Axoum; for although, if there is any + chance of getting out of the country before the rainy season, we + shall of course make every effort to get back in time, there is a + rumour that, if we are obliged to pass the wet season here, a + portion of the force will go back by Axoum and Adowa.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This camp is + called Antalo, but it is a mere name of courtesy, like that of a + good many English railway-stations. It is nearly six miles from the + town of Antalo, going by the most direct and most difficult road; + eight miles fully by the more accessible path. The position of + Antalo was certainly selected more with a view to its defensibility + than for its convenience. It lies upon a small undulating plain six + or seven hundred feet above the general level of the valley, and at + the foot of a very lofty and precipitous hill which rises nearly + sheer up fifteen hundred feet above it. This hill is accessible + only at one or two places, and walls are built across them; so that + it forms a safe retreat for the inhabitants of Antalo in the event + of their being attacked by a superior force. This hill fortress is + called Amba Antalo. A position such as this is no unnecessary + protection in this part of the country, for Antalo lies at the very + edge of the territory of the warlike Gallas. These tribes, whenever + their harvest is a bad one, gather together and make a foray upon + the villages of the plain, and sweep off crops and cattle. + Everywhere on the plain are ruined villages, which attest + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page280">[pg 280]</span><a name= + "Pg280" id="Pg280" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the frequency and + ferocity of these forays; and Antalo itself has evidently, and at + no very distant time, contained four times as large a population as + it does at present. I rode over there the day before yesterday to + the weekly fair.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I described + fully the market at Attegrat in a former letter; and as this was + precisely the same scene upon a rather larger scale, I have little + to add to what I then said. Very large quantities of flour were + brought in, and the commissariat secured a considerable supply. + Numbers of mules, donkeys, and cattle were also there. The + small-goods market too was crowded, and herbs and grain of all + sorts—onions, chillies, cloth, and most of the other articles I + mentioned as having seen at Attegrat—were here, with the exception + only of pumpkins, of which I did not see a single specimen. I, + however, bought three pounds of coffee, which I look upon as a + great prize, as it will be a change from the excessively bitter + herb termed by courtesy tea. The commissariat have purchased a + considerable quantity of coffee, and I am told we shall find it + much more plentiful as we go forward. This will be a very great + boon for the men.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I think that the + people here are more merry and full of fun than those at Attegrat; + they enter, or rather attempt to enter, into conversation much more + freely, and really seem anxious to do anything for one. I had at + least a dozen of them yesterday all talking together, and + endeavouring to make out what I wanted to find out about some small + packets of lead-ore which were used as a medium of exchange. It was + a rich flaky ore, containing quite eighty per cent of lead, and + marking paper freely. I was very desirous of finding out which part + of the country it came from; but neither my pantomime nor the + united endeavours of the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page281">[pg + 281]</span><a name="Pg281" id="Pg281" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>lookers-on to understand me availed to elicit + the required information.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">During my + progress through the country I have not seen any sign of mineral + ground, with the exception of some very rich samples of ironstone. + During the last three or four days’ march the formation has changed + several times from sandstone to a hard blue limestone, and + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">vice + versâ</span></span>. On the faces of these bare hills it would be + easy even at a distance to detect the change of colour or the + rising ridges which generally indicate the existence of a vein of + mineral; but, as I have said, although I have carefully examined + the country as I passed through it, I have seen no mineral + indication whatever.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">To return to the + fair. The scene, as at Attegrat, was very amusing; and the attitude + of the groups—the women sitting about everywhere with their + baskets, the men leaning upon their spears, the cattle standing + about in groups—the whole scene reminded me strongly of an Irish + fair, barring only the absence of the friendly pig, with his + agonised shriek of expostulation and disgust.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Antalo consists + of four or five villages, each standing upon the summits of small + rises. They were formerly connected together, and even now are + surrounded by ruined huts. The last blow Antalo suffered was three + years ago, when it was attacked by the Gallas, incited and led by a + rebel against Kassa, named Waldo Yasus. Both Antalo and the + villages on the plains suffered greatly at that time; and a + terrible attack of cholera, which swept over the country shortly + afterwards, completed their ruin. The houses have all high conical + roofs, thatched with rushes. Each house has a courtyard surrounded + by a high wall. The women here <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page282">[pg 282]</span><a name="Pg282" id="Pg282" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>are less picturesque in dress and less + pleasing in feature than those of Attegrat. Their morality is lax + in the extreme. <span class="tei tei-q">“A virtuous woman is a + crown to her husband:”</span> I fear there are very few crowned + heads in Abyssinia. I had left my horse at the foot of the ascent + from the plain up to Attegrat, and had walked the last two miles. + It was a very hot day, and one of our first inquiries upon reaching + the fair was for <span class="tei tei-q">“tedge.”</span> We were + conducted to what answered to a public-house. Here we entered, and + passing through a sort of outer passage, found ourselves in almost + outer darkness. It was some time before we could see sufficiently + to avail ourselves of the invitation to be seated, but presently + descried two seats or couches, built up of stone and covered with + skins. The room was semicircular in form, and very lofty, going up + to the thatched roof, which was lined with bamboo; on either side + were small chambers, which appeared devoted to miscellaneous + purposes; for after we had been some minutes in the place, and were + able to see a little, we made out that a donkey was standing + placidly at the door of one of these chambers, and that a goat and + a fireplace were the principal articles of furniture in the other. + The walls of the room were smoothly plastered, and as an abode it + no doubt possessed the advantage of coolness, even in the hottest + weather. Tedge, as I have before said, is a liquor made from + fermented honey and water, with herbs, and tastes like a mixture of + small beer and lemonade made from mouldy lemons, and was brought in + in a flask very like a Lucca oil-flask, but rather flatter, and + with a larger neck. From the neck of this flask we drank by turns; + and as it did not hold more than half a pint, and as we were four + in number and the day was hot, we demanded more. It seems that no + more was strained; so a <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page283">[pg + 283]</span><a name="Pg283" id="Pg283" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>large jar was brought, the wife of the + proprietor put a fold of her very dirty garment over its mouth, and + strained the liquor through it into the flask, and we drank it. In + calmer moments and in other climes, it is probable that we should + not have done so—probable even that a feeling of sickness would + have overpowered us. I am happy to say, however, that the army in + Abyssinia has altogether overcome any feeling of squeamishness. I + have seen some rum drank in which several cockroaches had committed + suicide; and I have assisted to eat honey which was black with ants + whose appetites had caused their untimely death. As for cooking, I + confess that I avoid the cooking-fires. I have seen sights which + have tried my philosophy to the utmost, and am now quite content to + eat the very excellent dinners our servants prepare from rations, + and not to think of the processes the meat has undergone. My + tent-companion and myself pride ourselves much upon our cooks. They + are two Goa Portuguese, and are, we flatter ourselves, beyond all + comparison the best cooks in camp. Their soups are excellent, their + cutlets the best I ever tasted, their preserved potatoes, baked in + cakes, delicious. They sent up birds in as good a style as I can + get them in a London club. Their pumpkin-pie—when we could get + pumpkins—was the talk of camp; the fame of their baked sheep’s + head, with brain cutlets, came to the ears of Sir Robert Napier + himself. Imagine, then, our feelings, when the stern decree was + emanated—all native servants whatever are to be sent away; each + officer is to carry 75 lb. of luggage, including bed, + cooking-utensils, and plates and dishes; and three officers are to + be allotted to each bell-tent. Heads of departments only are to be + allowed a bell-tent between two. At first we had believed that this + order did not apply to us; <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page284">[pg 284]</span><a name="Pg284" id="Pg284" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>that having our own baggage-animals, and + providing our forage, &c. at our own cost, and the tent being + our own property, we thought that it was a matter which concerned + no one but ourselves as to what or who we took on with us. But we + were deceived. Quartermaster-generals, eager to effect the greatest + possible cutting down, had their eyes upon the special + correspondents and the scientific gentlemen who accompany the camp; + and we were officially informed that we must be amenable to the + same rules as others. We pointed out that we found our own + carriage, and therefore that the weight we carried mattered to no + one; but were sternly informed that if we purchased grain for our + animals, there was so much the less available for the public + service. To a certain extent this was true; and so we said that we + were ready to go on with the weight that other officers were + allowed, but that the tent in the first place was our own, and that + it would be quite impossible for three men to write in a tent + together. We were ready, therefore, to carry less than the + permitted 75 lbs. of baggage, in order to have half a tent each; so + that our total kit, including tent, would not exceed the prescribed + 140 lbs. Our friends in the quartermaster department were quite + unable to grant us this request, and it was only upon a personal + application to Sir Robert Napier that we gained our point, as, upon + our stating the case, he at once consented to our retaining our own + tent to ourselves. The next question was that of servants. + <span class="tei tei-q">“All servants to be sent back, a + grass-cutter only being allowed for each horse.”</span> At first we + thought we should be obliged to send our servants back. + Fortunately, however, a grass-cutter is allowed for each horse; and + as we have each two horses, we have retained our cooks under the + title of grass-cutters for our <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page285">[pg 285]</span><a name="Pg285" id="Pg285" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>second horses. We are not singular in our + management, and there are very few staff-officers who have not + managed in some such manner to retain their servants. The fact is, + that a rule of this sort bears very much more hardly upon a + staff-officer, or a civilian living as we are, than it does upon a + regimental officer. A soldier-servant is allotted to each officer + upon application, and regimental officers who pick handy men from + their own companies, and who live three in a tent, have their three + soldier-servants between them as usual. It is far otherwise with a + staff-officer: he may obtain a soldier-servant from a regiment; but + that soldier does not know him, and will not work for him as he + will for his own officer. In the next place, the soldier has + certain regimental work to do, which will take him away from his + master’s tent for a considerable portion of the day; and lastly, a + staff-officer is liable to be sent away on duty from the camp where + the regiment to which his servant belongs is stationed. In our own + case a soldier-servant would be useless; we might wish at any + moment to push on to the pioneer force, or to accompany the + Commander-in-chief upon a short expedition, and we should then be + left without any servant whatever. At any rate, the order is + generally evaded. Were it not that two months must elapse before a + copy of this letter can come out to us, I should not speak so + freely upon this point, as we should be having a special committee + of officers of the <span class= + "tei tei-sic">quarter-master-general’s</span> department assembling + to consider the question of <span class="tei tei-q">“evasion of the + general order relating to servants by officers and civilians + attached to the army.”</span></p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page286">[pg 286]</span><a name= + "Pg286" id="Pg286" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc58" id= + "toc58"></a> <a name="pdf59" id="pdf59"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Antalo, March 7th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I am happy to + say that Major Minion, of the commissariat, arrived here early this + morning with a large convoy, carrying among other stores a large + quantity of rum; and it is now finally decided that a certain + quantity of both rum and tea shall be served out daily to the + troops on the advance. This happy state of things has been + principally brought about by the energetic remonstrances of all the + medical officers, and by their representation of the disastrous + effect which the sudden privation of tea and rum would have upon + the health of the troops, especially under the circumstances of the + water being so bad. Sir Robert Napier himself was, I know, most + averse to so extreme a measure; and nothing but the most urgent + feeling of the necessity of pushing on in the lightest and most + speedy manner could have induced him to consent to it; and I am + sure that he is as pleased as anyone that he is able to continue + the issue of what are really essentials to the soldiers.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is still + intended that we shall march on the 9th instant; indeed, orders + were issued for a forward movement for both yesterday and to-day. + The orders were, however, countermanded, for the road is not + practicable for more than one day’s march. As to the state of the + road beyond, we receive contradictory reports. Colonel Phayre, with + his usual happy, sanguine way of seeing things, states, I hear, + that it is not a very bad road; while the engineer officer, on the + other hand, reports that it will require a great deal of work to + make it practicable for baggage-animals, especially for the + elephants with the guns. The reason why the order was given for the + troops to march forward at once was, that <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page287">[pg 287]</span><a name="Pg287" id="Pg287" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Colonel Phayre sent in to say that Waldo + Yasus, the destroyer of Antalo, had sent in to say that he should + oppose our passage. It caused quite an excitement for a time. But I + learn to-day that Brigadier-general Field, who commands the pioneer + forces, has sent in a letter to say that the whole thing is a + mistake, and that Waldo Yasus is perfectly friendly, and that some + of the Scindees have already gone on.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">M. Munzinger, + whose name I have frequently had occasion to mention as French + consul at Massowah, and as accompanying the force as political + adviser and interpreter, has gone on ahead on a mission to Gobayze. + M. Munzinger has been some years in the country; he has married an + Abyssinian woman, and owns villages and land near here. He is + therefore well known to the natives, speaks their language, and is + in every respect very well fitted for an expedition of this sort. + On the other hand, there is some dissatisfaction among members of + the staff, who say that an officer ought to have been selected for + a mission of such importance, and should of course have been + accompanied by an interpreter. It is urged, too, that the French + look with great jealousy at our proceedings, and that their + interests are totally opposed to our own; and that therefore a + gentleman, however eligible in other respects, who is a French + official should not have been intrusted with so important a + mission. From all I have heard of M. Munzinger, I think there need + be no objection upon the latter score; but I confess that I agree + with those who think that a British officer—Major Grant, for + instance—ought to have gone as our ambassador, or at least should + have accompanied M. Munzinger. M. Munzinger was, I believe, sent + forward by Colonel Merewether without Sir Robert Napier’s + knowledge. <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page288">[pg + 288]</span><a name="Pg288" id="Pg288" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>As + M. Munzinger went forward, he had an interview with Waldo Yasus, + who expressed some little fear that we, as the friends of Kassa, + might intend to attack his amba, or fort, which stands on a lofty + rock immediately beside the defile through which we pass. M. + Munzinger, however, tranquillised him upon that score, and assured + him that we should in no way interfere with any dissensions in the + country. Waldo expressed himself as perfectly satisfied. M. + Munzinger has now nearly reached Lake Ashangi, and his report of + the road is decidedly favourable.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The gentleman to + whom this expedition is most greatly indebted, and who has done + infinitely more with the natives than the whole of our so-called + politicals and interpreters put together, is Mr. Speedy. I have + already mentioned that Mr. Speedy was sent for from New Zealand to + accompany the expedition, Sir Stafford Northcote having strongly + recommended him to Sir Robert Napier. The summons arrived somewhat + unexpectedly to Mr. Speedy, for he had already written to Colonel + Merewether volunteering his services, which had been declined by + that officer. Mr. Speedy, however, came off in three days after he + received General Napier’s communication. His services here have + been simply invaluable. Almost every useful negotiation with the + natives has been conducted by him. He speaks the language + exceedingly well, and is unwearied in his work. He hears + complaints, receives chiefs, and is in fact at present our great + medium of communication with the natives. He may be said to have + completely extinguished the little light of our former politicals. + Unquestionably he would have been the man to have sent to Gobayze; + but even had not Colonel Merewether sent off his emissary, M. + Mun<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page289">[pg 289]</span><a name= + "Pg289" id="Pg289" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>zinger, without + consulting Sir Robert Napier, the Commander-in-chief would not have + parted with Mr. Speedy, who is now his right-hand in all his + communications with the natives. Among the other stores which have + arrived to-day is some tobacco. The quantity is quite insufficient + for the wants of the troops during their advance; but even a small + supply per man will be a very great boon, for at present there is + hardly any tobacco left among them. Even the officers’ supplies are + beginning to run short, and they as well as the men will soon be + reduced to smoke the country tobacco, which is a disgusting mixture + of tobacco and cow-dung formed into flat cakes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The generals of + the advanced force are Brigadier-general Field (who has only just + been promoted), who commands the pioneer force; Brigadier-general + Schneider, who has the first brigade; and Brigadier-general Wilby + the second. Brigadier-general Collings, who has hitherto commanded + the advanced brigade, is to be left behind here. This has naturally + given rise to very strong comment. General Collings is far senior + in the service to any of the men who have been thus chosen for the + post of honour, and he has seen probably as much active service as + the other three officers together. He is in every respect an + excellent soldier and a most popular man; and there is a general + feeling that his being thus passed over is a most undeserved + slight, to put it in the mildest form. There is another reason why + he should have certainly formed part of the advance. The first + division is composed almost entirely of Europeans; and yet two out + of the three officers chosen are Indian officers who have never + commanded an English soldier during the whole of their service. + General Collings has not, as far as I have <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page290">[pg 290]</span><a name="Pg290" id="Pg290" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>heard, in any way neglected his duty; and his + case is a matter of regret and sympathy with every officer with + whom I have spoken—I mean, of course, outside the charmed pale of + the official circle.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The general + health of the troops continues excellent. There have been a few + cases of dysentery, but the hospitals are all but empty.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Antalo is low, + that is, in comparison with some of the places we have marched + through: it is little over 6000 feet above the sea, that is, 3000 + feet lower than Ad Abaga. The nights are consequently much milder + than those we have lately experienced. The sun is hot between eight + and ten in the morning; but at the latter hour a breeze springs up, + which continues to blow with violence all day, and renders the heat + of the sun, which would otherwise be great, bearable and even + pleasant. The spirit of the troops is no less good than their + health. Men who were marching up with the first wings of the 4th + and 33d would suffer anything from sore feet rather than say a word + on the subject, lest they should be left behind. One case of this + illustrates the feeling even more strongly. The day upon which we + marched out from Attegrat, three of the men of the 4th in some way + obtained some liquor, and were convicted of drunkenness upon the + line of march. This is a serious military offence, punishable by + fifty lashes; but Colonel Cameron told them that, as they were all + good-conduct men, he would only punish them by sending them back to + the wing behind. The men all came forward and requested as a favour + to be flogged instead of being left behind. Nothing could speak in + stronger terms for the spirit of the troops than this. I am glad to + say that, in consideration of their previous good conduct, Colonel + Cameron felt him<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page291">[pg + 291]</span><a name="Pg291" id="Pg291" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>self enabled to pardon them. This fact, in + itself, is a better answer to those who argue for the abolition of + corporal punishment in the army than a hundred pamphlets would be. + The only cogent reason of any force which the objectors to corporal + punishment can allege is, that it degrades a soldier in his own + eyes, and that he is good for nothing afterwards. Now, this is not + the case. I have at various times spoken to hundreds of soldiers on + the subject, and their answer is almost invariably the same: + <span class="tei tei-q">“It is not the punishment in which is the + disgrace; it is the crime. If a man is flogged for stealing, he + gets it thrown in his teeth afterwards that he has been flogged for + being a thief; but if he gets a drop too much, and perhaps is + impudent to a sergeant or officer, he may be flogged, but he will + never have it brought up against him as a disgrace + afterwards.”</span> The present instance proves this. These three + soldiers, all good-conduct men, who had seen seven years of + service, all considered that there would be much greater disgrace + in being sent to the rear than in being flogged.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There is not + very much shooting in this neighbourhood; a few guinea-fowls and + grouse, and an occasional hare, have been bagged, but even these + are scarce. As for the wild-beasts, of which we were to see so + much, they simply are not. The rhinoceroses, who were to dispute + the passage of the defiles; the alligators and hippopotami, who + were to lurk around the watering-places, and to render the fetching + a jug of water a service of as great danger as was the drawing a + goblet from the enchanted fountain in our dear old fairy tales,—all + these monsters are unknown here. We hear of lions, indeed, but + somehow they are never found in the parts of the country we + traverse. The hyena and jackal <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page292">[pg 292]</span><a name="Pg292" id="Pg292" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>are the only animals met with which could, + even by courtesy, be called wild-beasts. These, indeed, swarm; and + their numerous holes are a serious hindrance and danger to riders; + beyond this they are harmless, and one would as soon think of + shooting a fox as a jackal. Sportsmen are seriously disappointed; + almost everyone has brought out either rifle or gun, and many have + carried both. Now, when our luggage is limited to seventy-five + pounds, the weight of even one rifle, with its bullet-mould and a + good stock of lead and powder, is a very material consideration; + and, after the sacrifice of many little comforts to retain the + rifle, it is very hard to find that it is quite useless. There is + still a faint hope that we may find large game near the Ashangi + Lake; but, considering that it is over 5000 feet above the sea, I + can hardly think it is likely that we shall find any large game + there, except perhaps elephants. The owners of fowling-pieces are + better off. There have been few camping-grounds where a good shot + might not get a guinea-fowl or two in an hour’s ramble; and a + guinea-fowl well cooked is one of the best game birds I know. + Powder and shot are very valuable; indeed, they cannot be bought at + any price, unless one is fortunate enough to find some one who, in + the readjustment of his baggage, finds that he cannot possibly + carry on all his stock of ammunition.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The plains here + are singularly devoid of flowers: I never travelled in any country, + indeed, where there was such a complete absence of wild-flowers; + excepting, of course, the little watered dells, which I have + described in previous letters. There is one solitary sort of + flower, however, which I have met with in the plains in the + neighbourhood, and which differs from any I ever saw before: it is + a pea. The flower <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page293">[pg + 293]</span><a name="Pg293" id="Pg293" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>is + of the size and colour of the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“everlasting-pea;”</span> but, instead of growing as a + climber, the flower grows upon its own stalk from the ground. These + flowers grow in clusters; but there are no leaves or stems, with + the exception of the flower-stalk itself, three or four inches in + height. The flower has a scent exactly resembling that of a violet, + but less powerful: the seed is contained in a long, narrow pod, + like that of a wallflower.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Scorpions are + rather abundant here; and so, I am sorry to say, are white ants. It + is not that one has any peculiar objection to white ants. They are + certainly repulsive-looking insects, with their flabby white bodies + and their big yellow heads, but that is of little consequence; and + if they would but content themselves with walking about the tents + and climbing over everything, as do other ants, together with + spiders of every size, and a few beetles, one would not wish to + interfere with their pleasures. Unfortunately they will not amuse + themselves in this harmless way: they shun the light, and work in + darkness, and their work consists in eating holes in the bottom of + one’s portmanteau, or in the waterproof-sheet under one’s bed, or + one’s saddles, or books, or anything else which may come handy to + them.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Now, as we are + going to leave most of our portmanteaus and luggage here until we + return, this propensity of theirs becomes a grave inconvenience. I + fancy that we shall find our luggage, when we return, in a very + dilapidated condition. There is only one satisfaction,—our clothes + are rapidly getting into a state beyond which even white ants can + effect little further damage.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The remaining + wing of the 4th Regiment arrived two days ago, and the second wing + of the 33d marched in this <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page294">[pg 294]</span><a name="Pg294" id="Pg294" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>morning. We have therefore all the troops now + collected in readiness for the forward move, with the exception + only of a portion of the Beloochees, the 3d Dragoon Guards, and the + elephants with the six-inch mortars; together with the elephants to + carry Murray’s guns. All these will, it is said, be here in two or + three days. There is another thing of some slight importance + lacking: this is money.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The commissariat + have purchased such enormous quantities of flour and other stores, + that the money brought up is exhausted. Fortunately another + treasure-convoy is expected in a day or two.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This morning, at + a quarter to six, General Staveley had all the troops out for a + field-day. A deserted village upon a rising ground was attacked and + carried in excellent style; but the manœuvres would have no + interest to a general reader beyond those of any garrison + field-day.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc60" id="toc60"></a> <a name="pdf61" id="pdf61"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Antalo, March 11th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When Colonel + Phayre went ahead on the day of our arrival at Antalo, and reported + that the road was rather bad, but not impracticable, every one + looked at the range of peaks ahead of us and had serious + misgivings. An order was issued for our march upon the 7th, and a + party of pioneers were sent on to clear away any slight obstacles + which might occur. The report of their commanding officer as to the + state of the road was most unfavourable, and a wing of the 33d were + sent out to assist. In consequence of the reports which came in, + the march was postponed to the 9th, and Captain Macgregor, of the + quartermaster’s department, was sent out to report. On the evening + of the 8th a joint report from <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page295">[pg 295]</span><a name="Pg295" id="Pg295" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>this officer and Captain Goodfellow, of the + Engineers, was received. It stated, <span class="tei tei-q">“that + they knew nearly every pass in India, but that in their experience + they had met nothing whatever to compare to this defile, and that + the Sooro pass was child’s-play in comparison. With the 800 men at + work, it would, they calculated, take another ten days’ labour to + make it practicable for mules.”</span> All this time Colonel Phayre + was still in front, but his reports gave us no idea of the true + state of things. In the mean time we were receiving reports from + Mr. Munzinger, who, as I stated in my last, had gone ahead to see + Gobayze, and he said that the road, although difficult in places, + was by no means bad. Of course, on the receipt of the reports of + Captains Macgregor and Goodfellow, the march was again postponed. + Everyone was indignant. Sir Robert Napier, I have reason to know, + was more indignant than anyone, for his heart is set upon getting + onward as fast as possible. On the 9th arrived an officer from the + front, with the astounding intelligence that he had just ridden + down the other road, which was known to exist; that it was six + miles shorter; it passed over the mountain range at a point 1500 + feet lower than the other, and presented throughout its whole + distance no serious difficulties whatever. This it appeared, was + the very route that Munzinger had travelled, and the discrepancies + between his accounts and the real state of things were at once + explained. At first the news was received with absolute + incredulity. It seemed impossible that the quartermaster-general + could have kept the troops at work for a week upon an impracticable + road, when a good one lay ready at hand. The road, too, which + Colonel Phayre had not explored is called the Royal road, which in + itself was sufficient to show that it was the best and most + fre<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page296">[pg 296]</span><a name= + "Pg296" id="Pg296" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>quented of the two. + But the fact was, our political officer had heard that a rebel + chief had a fortress upon this road; the same chief whom I + mentioned in my last as having been reported by Colonel Phayre as + opposing our way. The man really is perfectly friendly, and was at + first rather more afraid of us than our quartermaster-general was + of him. However, the mere fact of his being there was assumed to be + a good reason for our not taking the road. And so a precious week + has been wasted, and all the labour thrown away. The new road is, + of course, not yet passable for the elephants with the heavy guns, + but Sir Robert will push on with the 4th Regiment and the steel + guns, and the 33d and the pioneer force will set to work and get it + in order for the rest of the force as soon as possible. It is not + often that we find a pioneer force engaged in making a road after + the head-quarters and part of the army have gone by. Our first + march is only eight miles. The distance thence up the pass is + nineteen. I believe that the troops will do it in two days, but + that Sir Robert Napier, with an escort, will go straight through to + Attala, in order to judge for himself of the real state of + things.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our items of + news from the rear are but of slight general interest. Captain St. + John reports, I am told, that the natives have ceased to damage the + telegraph-wires; but as a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">per-contra</span></span>, he says that the + wires are frequently broken by the baboons, who climb up the poles, + and hang on the wires by their tails. I am assured that this is an + absolute fact. One of the mule-drivers near Attegrat shot a native + the other day. The man, who was armed with a gun, attempted to rob + the mule; but the driver resisted, wrenched the gun from his hand, + and shot him. The robber is not dead, but <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page297">[pg 297]</span><a name="Pg297" id="Pg297" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>lies in a precarious state. The lesson was + greatly required; but instead of being rewarded for his conduct, + the mule-driver got a dozen lashes! I hope that the next driver + whose mule is attacked will allow it to be looted, and that the + functionary who has just so ably instructed mule-drivers not to + defend the public property will be ordered to pay the cost of the + stores stolen. Tents have been erected here for the reception of + such luggage as cannot be carried on under the present regulations. + I sent my portmanteau in this morning, and had the pleasure when + moving it of finding that the white ants had eaten a large hole in + the bottom. I do not expect to find any remains of it, or of its + contents, upon my return. Captain Moore, the Commander-in-chief’s + interpreter, has gone on ahead to pacify the local chiefs, and to + assure them that we have no intention of molesting them. No better + man could have been selected for the office. Captain Moore speaks + almost every known language, and has had as much experience of + native potentates as any man living. Major Grant has gone on to + Attala, to buy provisions, &c. An officer of his African + experience and standing would have been far better employed as an + ambassador to King Gobayze; while bargaining with natives would + have been much more in accordance with Mr. Munzinger’s experience + and powers. Some tobacco has come up, and has been distributed + among the troops, to their great satisfaction. During the last few + days the troops have been exercised in turning out rapidly on the + alarm being sounded. The sentries have, too, been placed and + instructed as if in front of an enemy, who might at any moment make + a night attack.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The natives here + unanimously express their hopes and wishes that we should take + possession of the country and <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page298">[pg 298]</span><a name="Pg298" id="Pg298" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>become their masters. Our style of paying for + everything we require has taken them entirely by surprise. It is + altogether contrary to their experience. There is no doubt that + they are extremely poor, and terribly ground down, and many of + their very numerous vices are, to a certain extent, excusable upon + this score. They are so poor that they will sell anything for + dollars—their corn, their flour, their donkeys, their cattle, their + wives, or their daughters. They are a terribly priest-ridden + people. I should say that no people in the world pay such + extortionate dues. The priests claim two-fifths of the gross + produce; of the remainder one-third is claimed by the King; then + comes the local chief: so that finally the unfortunate cultivator + gets less than one-fifth of the crop he has raised. It is no wonder + that the people are poor, and that in times of drought, or when the + locusts sweep over the land, or the rebels, more destructive still, + carry off crops and herds and flocks, famine stalks through the + land. There is no doubt that our mastership would be an unmixed + blessing to them, but it would certainly be the very reverse of + advantageous to ourselves. From our landing at Zulla to the present + time we have passed through a country more barren than any I ever + traversed. Except for grazing purposes it is absolutely valueless. + Here and there, in the valleys, are little patches of cultivation + by the side of the streams; but in the whole two hundred miles we + have passed through, looking east and west as far as the eye can + reach, I do not think that we have seen, in all, five hundred acres + of cultivated land. Taking the two hundred miles north and south + by, say, ten miles east and west—in all, two thousand square + miles—I would not take the fee-simple as a gift. I am not, of + course, suggesting that the ground we have <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page299">[pg 299]</span><a name="Pg299" id="Pg299" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>traversed is to be taken as a fair sample of + Abyssinia. Unquestionably it is not so. It would be as fair to land + in the north of England, and to skirt the sea-coast, keeping on the + Cumberland, Westmoreland, Lancashire, Welsh, and Cornwall hills, + and then to pronounce England a sterile country. Still, by what we + have seen, by the ranges of mountain-summits discernible everywhere + in the far west, it is evident that a very large portion of + Abyssinia is mere grazing-land; and it is probable that the valleys + and low-lying plains, which are extremely fertile, would be + unhealthy for European constitutions. Whatever ideas may have been + entertained at one time as to our taking possession of a country so + rich, so fertile, and so salubrious as this was represented to be, + the experience of this expedition must have entirely dispelled this + notion. The general aspect of the country is so bare, the fertile + portions so distant from the coast, the roads so impracticable, + that any idea of English colonisers settling here, as suggested by + Mr. Dufton and others, is simply preposterous; and in addition to + all this, a very large force would be required to keep a warlike + and turbulent people in order. We see by the English papers that + <span class="tei tei-q">“A British Taxpayer”</span> has been + writing indignantly, demanding why two or three thousand men were + not sufficient for this paltry business. If the British Taxpayer + had been out here, he would not have asked such a question. British + soldiers are by no means men to overrate difficulties, or to hold + their enemies at higher than their real value. But the universal + opinion here is, that we have not one man too many in the country. + The tribes of Shohos on the sea-coast; the King of Tigre, who can + summon 20,000 or 30,000 men to his banner; the fierce Gallas, + through whom we have <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page300">[pg + 300]</span><a name="Pg300" id="Pg300" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>still to pass,—all these have been, and + probably will be, friendly. But why? Simply because we are strong + enough to keep them in order. No one doubts for a moment that if + they thought that they were strong enough, they would fall upon us + instantly for the sake of plunder. If the three thousand men who, + according to this critic, would have been amply sufficient, could + have been endowed with the agreeable faculty of going for three + months without food, and if their horses had been similarly gifted, + they would without doubt have been amply sufficient. Three thousand + British soldiers, as long as they keep together in a compact body, + could march from the Mediterranean to the Cape of Good Hope. But, + unfortunately, men and animals who can go for three months without + food are scarce in these degenerate days. Our experience here is + that, with the exception of meat, no food whatever is procurable + between Zulla and our present most advanced post, with the solitary + exception of Antalo. Grain for the animals is almost as scarce. We + have bought small quantities, indeed, at most of the stations, but + we never get it for the first few days after our arrival. It is + only after we have been at a place for a short time, and when the + people find out how large a sum we pay for it, that they bring in + even small quantities. Then the problem would present itself: these + three thousand men must be fed. To be fed, they must carry supplies + with them. These supplies must be conveyed upon baggage-animals. + These baggage-animals must be fed. But there is no food to be + obtained as they march on direct. Therefore, it is evident that + dépôts must be formed, and these must be guarded; communication + must be kept up, roads must be made to some extent, for there are + many places perfectly impracticable for <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page301">[pg 301]</span><a name="Pg301" id="Pg301" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>loaded animals. And so the three thousand men + would be frittered all over the country, and would be harassed to + death by overwork and watching, and it is certain they could never + penetrate to Magdala. Has a <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Taxpayer”</span> ever read the history of the French + campaign in Spain? Has he any idea of the number of hundred + thousand men who marched into that country, and of the numbers who + returned to France? A very small proportion of the deficit fell + under British steel and lead. They were accounted for by the + peasantry. They died, shot down upon baggage-guard, cut off when in + search of provisions, surprised when in small parties, harassed to + death by overwork. Such would have been the fate of three thousand + men landing in Abyssinia. The people here are as brave as the + Spaniards, the country is beyond all comparison more difficult, and + the resources which, it offers to an invader are as nothing to + those of Spain. Our force, as it is now constituted, is sufficient + to overawe the country, and it is fortunate that it is so. For I + say fearlessly, and there is not an officer here who would not + support me in that opinion, that if the people were hostile, we + could not even with our present force have ever hoped to reach + Magdala. It would have been a sheer impossibility. A mere passive + resistance, the driving away of flocks and herds, and the burning + of the grass, would have brought us to a standstill at Senafe; + while the bare idea of defending our communication, and guarding + the enormous trains required for our march of three hundred miles + through a barren, hostile, and most difficult country, is so + supremely ridiculous as to be laughable. The experiment of the + three thousand men, had it been tried, would have ended in a + disaster such as, with the exception of Cabul, the British arms + have never <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page302">[pg + 302]</span><a name="Pg302" id="Pg302" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>experienced, and it must afterwards have been + retrieved with a force of three times the strength even of our + present one, and at an expenditure which might have taught even the + <span class="tei tei-q">“British Taxpayer”</span> that penny wisdom + is an equivalent for pound foolishness.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A general order + has just appeared regulating the whole distribution of the troops; + and as this is a final arrangement, it will no doubt be interesting + to all who have friends in the army here.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">First + Division.—Major-general Staveley, K.C.B., in command; Colonel Wood, + deputy-adjutant-general; Major Baigrie, + deputy-quartermaster-general. Pioneer Force: Brigadier-general + Field. Troops: forty sabres 3d Native Cavalry; forty Scinde Horse; + 3d and 4th company Bombay Sappers and Miners; two companies 33d + Regiment; two companies Beloochees; one company Punjaub + Pioneers.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">First Brigade, + Brigadier-general Schneider.—Troops: Head-quarters wing 3d Dragoon + Guards, 3d Native Cavalry, Scinde Horse, G battery, 14, Royal + Artillery, A battery 21st company Royal Artillery, 4th King’s Own, + Head-quarters and eight companies 33d, 10th company Royal + Engineers, Head-quarters and two companies Beloochees, + Head-quarters wing 10th Native Infantry.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Second Brigade, + Brigadier-general Wilby.—Wing of 12th Bengal Cavalry, B battery + 21st Royal Artillery, two 8-inch mortars, with detachment 5th + battery 25th Royal Artillery, Rocket Naval Brigade, K company + Madras Sappers, seven companies Punjaub Pioneers, wing of + Beloochees.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It will thus be + seen that the 1st Division consists of four entire infantry + regiments—the 4th, 33d, Beloochees, and Punjaub Pioneers—and a wing + of the 10th Native Infantry, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page303">[pg 303]</span><a name="Pg303" id="Pg303" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>of the 3d Native Cavalry, the Scinde Horse, a + wing of the Dragoon Guards, and a wing of the 12th Bengal Cavalry, + three batteries of Royal Artillery and two 8-inch mortars, and + three companies of Sappers and Miners and one company of Royal + Engineers; an admirably-selected force, and which, as long as it + kept together, would be invincible.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Another general + order has also been promulgated, which I have very great pleasure + in giving, because it does full justice to a most meritorious and + hardworking body of officers. I have the more pleasure in giving + publication to the order, as it thoroughly indorses the opinion I + have all along stated that the transport officers were in no way to + blame for the confusion which took place at Zulla:</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“General Order.—Head-quarters, Camp Antalo, March + 4th.—The Commander-in-chief has lately received from the Director + Transport Train, Abyssinia field force, a full and particular + report of the service rendered to the corps by the officers under + his command. His Excellency has perused this report with much + satisfaction, and it is most gratifying to him to find that, in + spite of the numerous and extraordinary difficulties with which the + officers of the transport-train have had to contend, and + notwithstanding the hard and unceasing work they have had to + perform, they have, almost without exception, displayed an amount + of steady determination to do their best which is beyond all + praise. The Commander-in-chief begs to assure Major Warden and the + officers under his command that the work performed by them has not + been overlooked, and shall not be forgotten. His Excellency trusts + that one and all will remember that upon their individual exertions + depends, in a great measure, the success of the expedition. The + transport-train, for reasons far beyond <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page304">[pg 304]</span><a name="Pg304" id="Pg304" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>the control of the officers belonging to it, + has just commenced to assume that military organisation so + requisite to its well-being, and for want of which at first it + suffered so severely.... The Commander-in-chief is well aware how + much the services of the officers of the transport-train have been + depreciated, and how unfairly blame has been attached to them for + shortcomings beyond their control. His Excellency, however, assures + them that he has never for a moment lost confidence in them, nor + has he ever doubted that their exertions would eventually bring + order and regularity out of confusion and indiscipline.... All + cannot of course work under the eye of the Commander-in-chief, and + comparatively few can accompany the advanced force; but his + Excellency will make no distinction when the campaign is over + between those who were in front and those who were necessarily in + the rear. All by good work can contribute materially to the success + of the campaign, and it will be by that standard, and by that + alone, that his Excellency will be guided when making hereafter his + report upon the services performed by the officers under his + command.—By order of his Excellency the Commander-in-chief. Fred. + Thesiger, lieutenant-colonel, deputy-adjutant-general.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Never was + liberal praise more deserved, and it will be most gratifying to the + men who have slaved and toiled almost night and day in the face of + every possible discouragement.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc62" id="toc62"></a> <a name="pdf63" id="pdf63"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Meshech, March 14th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We have advanced + two days’ marches into the Abyssinian hills, and at every step + forward we see more clearly the diffi<span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page305">[pg 305]</span><a name="Pg305" id="Pg305" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>culties with which we have to struggle. The + first day’s journey was to Musgee; an easy march of eight miles + across an undulating plain. At Musgee we found the two companies of + the 33d, two of the 10th Native Infantry, and the Sappers and + Miners, who constitute the pioneer force. They had just come in, + recalled from the hard and unprofitable labour in the defile, and + now prepared to set to work anew upon the new route. They report + the pass as a tremendous defile, and say that the detachment of + Scinde Horse have lost no less than seven horses either from falls + or from over-fatigue. We were amused at the natives who came round, + and absolutely made fun of the soldiers for their unsuccessful + attempts at making roads in impassable places, when there was a + good road ready at hand. The head-quarters and the other three + companies of the 33d, and the company of the Punjaub Pioneers, were + near the other end of the defile, and they had orders to push + straight on to Attala, and begin to improve the road from the other + end. At Musgee we had clear running water, which was really + enjoyable after the stagnant stuff we had been drinking at Antalo. + On the morning of the 13th Sir Robert Napier started with his staff + and an escort at seven o’clock. The rest of the force left at ten + precisely. The march was eight miles—a short distance apparently; + but when I state that a great number of the animals did not arrive + until eight in the evening, it will be at once seen that it was + very much harder work than it appears at first sight. The first + three or four miles of this road, or rather track, led along the + hill-side, and then as the valley narrowed in, and its sides became + very precipitous, it kept along the bottom. There we crossed and + recrossed a little stream at least a dozen times; and much of the + delay <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page306">[pg 306]</span><a name= + "Pg306" id="Pg306" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and confusion was + caused by mules insisting upon stopping to drink, and thereby of + course bringing the whole line to a stop. This part of the march + was by far the prettiest and most English we have seen out here. We + were travelling in a grove of trees, with a thick underwood, except + just where a path was cut wide enough for a single mule to pass. A + really good-sized streamlet of clear water wound here and there, + with quiet pools, and bright tumbling little cascades. Under our + feet was a cool greensward, over our heads a shady screen of + foliage. Imagine the charm of such a scene to us, who, except in an + occasional secluded dell, have scarcely seen a tree, or felt shade, + or heard the plash of falling water for months. How we should have + liked to have halted, and to have enjoyed the turf and the shade + for an hour or two! All our attention was required, however, for + the work in hand, for in many places we had very rough bits, and + the wood-nymphs and dryads must have been sorely startled at the + shouting and tumult which arose in their quiet shades. On each side + of us the mountains rose to a great height, crowned with + perpendicular precipices, on one of which, seemingly accessible + only to a bird, was the stronghold of some border chief. Presently + the mountain sides receded a little, and we emerged into a small + plain. In the centre of this ran the stream, and by its side were + some very large trees, which I can best describe by saying they + resemble oaks with willow-leaves. Here we encamped.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The troops had + taken four hours to do the eight miles; but the commissariat + animals, as I have stated, were more than double that time upon the + road. Both at Musgee and here there is a great lack of grain for + the animals. One pound of grain was all they got yesterday, and + to-day at <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page307">[pg + 307]</span><a name="Pg307" id="Pg307" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>twelve there is to be a similar large issue. + If this sort of thing continues, the animals must inevitably break + down. The drivers, after their day’s work was over, did go up into + the hills and cut some grass; but the coarse grass contains very + little nourishment, and the horses refuse to eat it. The mules eat + it, indeed, but it can do them very little good. I have all along + in my calculations of the probable duration of the campaign argued + that we must expect to come to places where forage was not + procurable, and that if we came to a place where for four days’ + marches we could get no grain and but little grass, that we must + come to a standstill and form dépôts. Of course the difficulty will + be proportionately greater when we have the whole advance force, + with its thousands of cavalry-horses and baggage-animals with us. + We were to have started this morning at seven o’clock; but a + messenger arrived at two this morning with a letter from the + Commander-in-chief to General Staveley, saying that the road was so + bad that we must halt for a day to enable the pioneer force to + smooth some of the most impracticable places. We have also news of + the head-quarters and three companies of the 33d who had pushed on + by the <span class="tei tei-q">“Phayre”</span> road to Attala. They + had a distance of fourteen miles to go, four of which they had + comparatively cleared. They started early, and they got in the + following day at twelve o’clock, having been twenty-eight hours on + the road. The pioneer force is hard at work upon the road ahead, + and to-morrow morning we start for Attala. It is stated to be an + eight-mile march; but I hear that the opinion of those who have + gone on is, that it is a good thirteen. At Attala I anticipate that + we shall wait some days-that is, if forage is obtainable. + Everything must now depend upon this vital point. We must + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page308">[pg 308]</span><a name= + "Pg308" id="Pg308" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>push-on to some place + where abundant forage can be obtained, and we must then wait for + the remainder of the force to come up. This must entail a halt of + some days, whenever it is; for the 3d Dragoon Guards and the 12th + Bengal Cavalry were both some marches’ distance from Antalo when we + left, and they will, of course, have to make a halt of a day or two + at that place upon their advance, to rest their animals. I hear + that in the neighbourhood of Lât there is plenty of forage; in that + case Lât will probably be our halting-place, if we find we cannot + obtain sufficient grass and grain at Attala. Sportsmen have been + looking forward to our arrival at Lake Ashangi, as game is likely + to be abundant in that neighbourhood, especially wild-fowl. We have + received a letter from Mr. Massinger, which shows that any attempt + at wild-fowl shooting either at early dawn or at dusk is likely to + be attended with some little danger. It is, he says, very + difficult, and even dangerous, to approach the shores of the lake. + They are very flat, and the whole surface of the ground has been + broken up into chasms and crevasses, which are filled with soft + mud, and are not easily distinguishable from the surrounding soil. + A long stick plunged into the soft mud found no bottom, and a + person falling into one of these would, unless immediate assistance + was at hand, be inevitably lost. The natives say that these + crevasses were all formed by an earthquake which took place about + three years ago. Previous to that time the lake had an outlet + through which the overflow water made its way into the Tacazze. + This outlet is now stopped, and the water has risen and filled all + these chasms made by the earthquake.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page309">[pg 309]</span><a name= + "Pg309" id="Pg309" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc64" id= + "toc64"></a> <a name="pdf65" id="pdf65"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Mahkan, March 16th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My last letter + was dated from the pretty camping-ground bearing the scriptural + denomination of Meshech. Thence to Atzala was a march of thirteen + miles. The road led up the valley, as upon the previous day, for + about six miles, and then we had a long, but fortunately tolerably + gradual, climb up the saddle of the ridge. On the right of the + summit of the pass is the Amba of Waldo: it is considerably the + highest peak in the neighbourhood,—isolated, four-sided, and + apparently perpendicular. As far as we could see, there were no + walls or artificial defences. The huts which contain the garrison + are built on ledges upon the face of the rock. Ledge is hardly the + proper expression; for a ledge is a projection, whereas the huts + are built in deep scores which run round the face. The rock + overhead completely overhangs them; so that they are to a certain + extent sheltered from the wind, which would, at an elevation of + 12,000 feet above the sea, be otherwise almost unbearable in such + an exposed condition. Waldo himself was at the top of the pass when + we went along. He is a man of about thirty-five, with a very + intelligent and pleasing face. A number of his warriors attended + him, and he was very much interested in our various uniforms and + appointments. He chatted for some time with General Staveley, who + fired-off his revolver for his edification. The articles, however, + that pleased him most were telescopes and field-glasses, and he + expressed a strong desire for one. He was evidently acquainted with + their use, for he shut one eye and examined the country through my + telescope with a nautical air which would have done no discredit to + the most aspiring midshipman. The Commander-in-chief presented + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page310">[pg 310]</span><a name= + "Pg310" id="Pg310" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>him with an excellent + glass on the following day; and he will now from his eyrie be able + to see any advancing foe in ample time to make his preparations for + defence.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The descent from + the top of the pass was much steeper and more severe than the + ascent had been, and the train of mules was a very long time making + its way to the bottom. Every animal that fell, every load which + shifted, brought the whole line to a standstill. However, patience + and care will effect wonders; and we got to the foot of the steep + portion without a casualty among the animals.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At Attala, or + Atzala, as I find it is more correctly spelt, we found the + Commander-in-chief encamped with the head-quarter wing of the 33d + and a small escort of Scinde Horse and the 3d Native Cavalry. The + Commander-in-chief intends, I believe, in future to accompany the + Pioneer Force, and to judge for himself as to the capabilities of + the roads, and to direct the work to be done to make them passable + by the main body. Colonel Phayre will, however, still continue a + couple of days’ march ahead, with a small escort. Sir Robert Napier + gets through an immense quantity of work in the course of a day; + and the following order, which has been lately issued, shows that + he is unable to trust the political business, such as it is, out of + his own hands, but is compelled to be his own political officer, as + well as his own explorer: <span class="tei tei-q">“The + Commander-in-chief directs that in future all reports forwarded for + his information by officers in the intelligence department may be + sent to the political secretary, through the general or other + officer commanding the division or post in which they may be + serving. In special cases, where a more immediate communication to + his Excellency may seem expedient, reports may be sent direct; + copies of them, how<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page311">[pg + 311]</span><a name="Pg311" id="Pg311" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>ever, being at once furnished to the officer’s + immediate military superior. All instructions for the guidance of + officers in the intelligence department will be sent to them by + Captain Tweedie, political secretary, who must be considered as the + sole officer authorised to convey to them his Excellency’s + commands.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Atzala is + situated in an extensive basin, apparently surrounded upon all + sides by lofty hills. The abundance which we found at Antalo still + continues, and the commissariat are able to purchase grain for the + animals. I found upon my arrival in camp that Sir Robert Napier + intended to push on at once with the Pioneer Force, leaving Sir + Charles Staveley to follow, with an interval of a day or two, to + allow the road to be improved. Sir Robert has also sent back for + the light guns of Twiss’s Mountain Train, and for the Naval Rocket + Brigade, both of which formed part of the 2d Brigade, according to + the published list. There are two explanations of this order; the + one being that he finds the roads so bad that he thinks it will + perhaps be impossible to bring the heavy guns of Murray’s battery + on without great loss of time; the other theory is, that he is now + convinced that we shall have to fight at Magdala, and wishes to + arrive there with as strong a force of artillery as possible. The + advices from Magdala tell us that Theodore had received exact + intelligence of our whereabouts and rate of moving; and that + whereas, believing us to be nearer, he had decided upon waiting at + Dalanta; and he has now pushed on with the greatest energy, and + arrived with his guns and convoy quite close to Magdala. This is, I + think, the best news we could receive. Theodore has evidently made + up his mind to await us at any rate in his fortress. He may fight, + he may pretend friendship, and <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page312">[pg 312]</span><a name="Pg312" id="Pg312" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>offer us the prisoners; but, at any rate, he + will be there: whereas, if he had not been able to reach Magdala, + he might have retired at our approach; and if he had ever taken to + the hills, our expedition would have been almost interminable: once + in Magdala, and surrounded, we are sure of him. Magdala may be, and + I believe is, very strong, and may hold out for weeks; but we know + that sooner or later we must have it. I believe that the guns we + have will be useless, except for their moral effect upon the enemy. + A shell thrown on to the summit of a rock fortress when the + garrison were sheltered behind great boulders, or in caves or + crevices, might alarm them, but would probably do very little harm. + Our stock of missiles is very limited, and we shall probably have + to take the place at last by assault. If Magdala at all approaches + Waldo’s fortress in strength, an assault in the face of some + thousands of determined men, commanded by a desperate chief like + Theodore, will be no child’s-play even for British troops. A few + stones rolled down would sweep the path of a whole line of + stormers. A breastwork of great boulders rolled into position from + above would baffle the bravest. People talk lightly of Magdala and + its savage garrison; but if they prove true to their king, it will + prove as hard a nut as British prowess ever had to crack. Officers + speaking to me upon the subject have argued Magdala is probably not + so strong as many of the hill-forts in India which we have in our + time taken. This is no doubt true; as is the fact that the + defenders of these hill-forts were as brave, and were in addition + much better armed than are the garrison of Magdala. But, on the + other hand, the defenders of Indian hill-forts knew what British + troops were; they knew that our power was almost infinite; that we + were the masters <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page313">[pg + 313]</span><a name="Pg313" id="Pg313" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of + all India; and that sooner or later we could accumulate force + enough to capture even the most seemingly impregnable fortress. It + was, they knew, a mere question of time with us. However physically + brave, the knowledge that final over-throw is certain, will to a + great extent paralyse the efforts of any body of men. The reverse + of all this is the case with Theodore’s soldiers. They have never + fought but to conquer; they have a fanatical persuasion of the + might of their leader, and believe in his star; they have been + always told that Magdala is impregnable. For their enemies they + have neither fear nor reverence. The few white men they have seen + have been men of peace—missionaries and such-like—living but by + their sufferance, and now for years held in the degrading position + of captives. Theodore has impressed them with the belief that we + are a mere nation of traders, and that although we manufacture good + guns, and can use them at a distance, yet that we are wanting in + courage, and no match for his men in a hand-to-hand fight. + Doubtless, too, he will impress upon them the fact that we cannot + have brought a large stock of ammunition for our guns across this + long and difficult route; and that therefore his men have only to + keep quiet and let us expend our missiles, and that then our power + of doing harm will be at an end. He has, too, promised that they + shall divide among themselves all our treasure and spoil; and as by + this time they have probably heard that we are absolutely strewing + the country with dollars, their idea of our probable spoil must be + something magnificent.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">However, the + problem of war or peace will soon be solved. At the rate at which + we are now proceeding, another three weeks will see us in front of + Magdala. Indeed, if we continue to press forward at the present + rate, we should be at <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page314">[pg + 314]</span><a name="Pg314" id="Pg314" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>our journey’s end in a fortnight, or, rather, + we should be there if the whole of the mules did not die. To-day’s + march has been fifteen of the longest and heaviest miles ever + traversed, with scarcely a mile of level ground the whole distance. + The difficulty began at the very start, for we had at once to climb + a high and steep hill, and to descend at once on the other side. So + long a time did this occupy, so many were the stoppages and + breakdowns, that although the first of the train started before + seven, it was ten before the last of the convoy of six hundred had + even commenced the ascent. The Commander-in-chief was not to start + till one o’clock, and a small party of mules would leave at that + time with his tent, &c. I therefore had, very fortunately as it + turned out, resolved not to start my animals until the same time. + After passing over the first hill, we came to another, which was + the highest we had yet come to, being two hundred feet higher than + the summit of the pass upon the preceding day. The ascent, although + very long, was not very steep; indeed, all the hills we have + crossed are much more precipitous on the southern than on the + northern side. Here our difficulties commenced; for at the top of + the hill were numbers of the animals who had started five hours + before us. The descent was blocked up, and for ten minutes at a + time everyone was brought to a stand-still. Great was the noise, + tremendous the shouting in various languages. Once upon the descent + of the hill, everyone kept in single file; but the confusion was + greatest at the top, as everyone strove to get his own animal first + upon the track. Here were Beloochees, Scinde Horse, Engineers, 33d + men, and 3d Native Cavalry, all trying to insinuate the animals of + which they were in charge into the straight line. Not unfrequently + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page315">[pg 315]</span><a name= + "Pg315" id="Pg315" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>some unfair effort to + interlope ended in well-merited punishment, by one of the mules + getting jammed between others, and his load pulled back over his + tail. At last we got our animals fairly on to the descent, which + was very steep and winding, and then there was nothing for it but + patience. With our own animals we had no trouble, for we had long + ago found out that although a string of four animals goes well + enough along a plain, the only way to get them down steep places, + or over very rough ground, is to unfasten them, and to make a + servant go to each mule’s head. In this way, if the loads are + properly packed upon Otago saddles, they will go anywhere; the + mules can pick their way without being hurried, and the loads will + not shift; whereas the government mules, being fastened three or + four in a string, under the charge of a single driver, are + continually coming to grief. The leading mule steps over stones or + down steep places with comparative ease, and when on level ground + steps boldly forward; while the unfortunate animals behind him, who + are still on the difficult ground, are unable to pick their way, + their heads are pulled into the air, they hang back and vainly + resist, and either lie down at once, or are pulled off their legs. + The present state of the Bombay saddles assists to aggravate the + evil. The leather loops which were attached to them, and through + which the ropes which fastened the baggage passed, are now in a + majority of cases torn off, and the consequence is, that the load + at once slips forwards or backwards immediately the animal gets + upon an incline, and the saddle remains on the back, while the load + rolls off. The mountain-side was thickly covered with shrubs; and + as we went down in a long confused line, with the baggage-guard + scattered at intervals along it, most of the men being + in<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page316">[pg 316]</span><a name= + "Pg316" id="Pg316" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>cessantly employed in + repacking the loads, with their arms piled near them while they did + so, one could not but reflect that we shall have to travel in a + very different fashion when we approach Magdala. Two or three + hundred men, armed only with spears, concealed among the bushes, + and rushing out at a given signal, could have annihilated the whole + convoy before a bayonet could have been fixed or the slightest + resistance offered. I believe that it is settled that we shall take + no tents forward with us for the last three or four days’ marches; + and this, with the fact that a comparatively small number of mules + will be required for the commissariat stores, will diminish our + train to one-fourth of the present size. If Theodore has made up + his mind to fight, there is little doubt that he will begin while + we are in the passes. He has always been famous for his + night-attacks, and we have been especially warned to beware of + sudden attacks. The King of Tigre was very impressive on this + score. Waldo, the other day, also warned us most earnestly to be + upon our guard night and day. We had a turn-out of the troops this + morning at Atzala. It took place at about ten in the morning, and + was for a few minutes quite an exciting affair. With the exception + only of Sir Charles Staveley and a few of his personal staff, no + one knew whether it was a real alarm or not. We were now in the + Gallas country, where we had been told to expect raids, and it was + quite possible that the convoy, the rear of which was still + mounting the hill, had been suddenly attacked. When, therefore, the + first bugle sounded the alarm, and after a pause sounded again and + again, quite a thrill ran through the camp. All the regimental + bugles repeated the calls, and the camp presented the appearance of + an ant-hive suddenly disturbed. The men <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page317">[pg 317]</span><a name="Pg317" id="Pg317" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>tumbled out from their tents in hot haste, + buttoning-up their tunics and buckling-up their belts; the cooks + and butchers left the half-cut-up carcasses, to run to their tents + for their arms and accoutrements; officers shouted for their + swords; the men who were out for wood or water came scampering up; + the mule-drivers rapidly drove in the animals which were grazing on + the plains; the dhoolie-bearers mustered round the palkees; the + grasscutters buckled on swords of various descriptions; and I + observed my servant busily engaged in loading a great + double-barrelled pistol. The result showed that an enemy must + manage to creep up very close before being observed, to catch us + unawares. In two minutes and a half from the first bugle, the 4th + were drawn up in close order in front of their lines, and being + joined by the Beloochees, marched off, throwing out skirmishers + before them. In another five minutes the Mountain Artillery were in + motion, and the 3d Native Cavalry, who had, when the alarm sounded, + been in their native undress, had dressed, saddled, and were + dashing across the plain. A little in rear of the infantry the + dhoolie-bearers were staggering along with their palkees, and an + apothecary was in full chase with an armful of splints and + bandages. It is evident that we shall not be caught asleep. Alarms + of this sort do good occasionally, but should not be too often + repeated, or the men get so accustomed to the cry of <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Wolf!”</span> that they will not believe it when the + real animal makes his appearance.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">But I am leaving + myself and my mules an unconscionable time upon the hill; scarcely, + however, so long as I was there in reality, for it was getting dusk + when I reached the foot, just three hours after my arrival at the + top. There was no camp in sight, and, although we knew it was still + six miles <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page318">[pg + 318]</span><a name="Pg318" id="Pg318" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>distant, we were ignorant of the direction in + which it lay. Fortunately, none of the loads had shifted, and we + were thus enabled to push past great numbers of animals who were + standing with their loads upon the ground beside them. It was a + very weary and unpleasant six-miles’ march. There was no moon, and + it soon became extremely dark; and as the way was a mere track, we + were quite ignorant whether we were going in the right direction or + not. Of course we followed mules in front of us, but there was no + knowing whether they were going right—for a mule stopping for a + minute, for a readjustment of the load, would lose sight of the one + in advance, and would be just as likely as not to go in the wrong + direction, and inevitably be followed by all in his rear. The way + was across an undulating plain, with many deep nullahs covered with + trees, and so dark that we could not see our horses’ ears. There + was very little shouting now; everyone rode or walked along in a + sort of sulky silence; the pace was of the slowest, the mules being + scarcely able to crawl along. We could not pick our way, for we + could not see the ground. Some got off and led their horses, others + trusted to their horses’ eyes, and it was astonishing how well the + animals picked their way; still there were some awkward falls. Even + if one escaped these greater dangers, it was not pleasant to be + caught by a bramble suddenly between the eyes, or to be nearly + borne over the crupper of the horse by a stiff bough under the + chin. At last, just when we had arrived at the conclusion that we + must have missed our road, and that it would be better to draw off + the way and pitch our tent until daybreak, we saw the camp-lights + in the distance, and, after another mile’s travelling, arrived + here, as I began this letter by saying, at half-past nine + o’clock.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page319">[pg 319]</span><a name= + "Pg319" id="Pg319" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc66" id= + "toc66"></a> <a name="pdf67" id="pdf67"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Ashangi Lake, March 19th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I finished my + last letter on the night of my arrival at Mahkan, very tired, very + hungry, and a good deal out of temper. We halted at Mahkan on the + 17th, as the animals imperatively needed a day’s rest. There can be + no question that these very long marches are a mistake in every + way. Many of the animals which started at seven in the morning did + not get in until ten or eleven o’clock next day; and fatigue of + this sort, together with an almost starvation diet, is too much for + any animals. The number which actually died upon the road was very + small—only three or four, I am told; but then the animals have had + a rest at Antalo, and have still some little strength left. I have + no hesitation, however, in saying that three or four such marches + as this would find the great majority of the transport-train + animals <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">hors de combat</span></span>. It is terribly + fatiguing too for the troops. Nor is anything gained by it. The old + proverb, <span class="tei tei-q">“the more haste the less + speed,”</span> is amply verified. We did fifteen miles, and then + had to halt a day; whereas had we halted at a spring at the foot of + the steep descent, six miles from Mahkan, the animals could have + easily marched some miles beyond Mahkan on the following day. + Fifteen miles over a flat country is one thing, fifteen miles over + a succession of mountains, with a rifle, sixty rounds of + ammunition, and etceteras, is quite another; and I sincerely trust + that we shall not again attempt such a tremendous march as + this.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The mule-train + is at present all that can be desired. The number of animals + attached to the advanced division is 8000, and comprises the Lahore + mule-train, the Raul Pindee mule-<span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page320">[pg 320]</span><a name="Pg320" id="Pg320" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>train, and the A and D divisions of the + transport-train. I have had occasion more than once to speak of the + efficiency of the Lahore and Pindee trains, which arrived from + Bengal in the most perfect order, and which, being marched straight + to Senafe, did not share in the general disruption at Zulla. The A + division, under Captain Griffiths, I have also spoken of, as being + in excellent condition. This is the division which went up with the + exploring party to Senafe, and staying there, partially escaped the + crash. The D division is commanded by Captain Twentyman; an officer + whose energy and devotedness at Zulla during the worst times helped + to pull the transport-train through its greatest difficulties, as I + had the pleasure of testifying at the time. These four divisions + are under the control of Captain Hand, of the Lahore mule-train, + who has been appointed their director. He is an able and energetic + officer, and his management of the train gives the highest + satisfaction. The transport-train authorities at Zulla have nothing + whatever to do with the advanced portion, which is under the sole + orders of Captain Hand.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the morning + after our arrival at Mahkan the wing of the 33d was sent on to make + the road, the head-quarter camp remaining with only the escort of + the 2d Horse and 3d Cavalry. In the afternoon, however, a party of + Beloochees and Punjaub Pioneers came in. During the day a man came + in with one of the curious lozenge-shaped guitars I have already + described, and kept up a monotonous chanting for some time. The + words Magdala and Tèdros were the only words generally recognised; + and it was supposed that he was singing some song he had composed + in our honour. An interpreter, however, who happened to come up, + undeceived us by explaining that the singer, relying upon our + ignorance of the language, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page321">[pg 321]</span><a name="Pg321" id="Pg321" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>was reciting our certain defeat, and the + vengeance that Theodore would take upon us. I have no fear of the + man turning out a true prophet; but it is certain that the people + of the country generally look upon our chance of victory over + Theodore as being a very poor one indeed. Yesterday morning we + started at eight o’clock on our march to this place, and, owing to + the 33d having gone on, our baggage-train was much smaller, and the + difficulties and delays proportionately less. We found, upon + mounting the first hill, that we had come on an entirely new and + agreeable phase of Abyssinian scenery. Instead of the bare hills + and plains over which, interspersed with wooded valleys, we had + journeyed since we entered Abyssinia, we were transported at one + bound into the very heart of Switzerland. Everywhere to the very + mountain-tops was a pine-forest. In some places the trees grew + closely together, with a thick underwood, which shut-in the path on + both sides, and through which the road had been partially cleared + by the 33d. At other times the trees were more thinly scattered + about, or stood in clumps, affording every variety of park-like + scenery. It was a delightful ride for about six miles through + these, the road being smooth and easy. At the end of that time our + difficulties began, the way lying over and along steep and very + rocky hills covered with forest and brushwood. The General had + expected to have found the road to a certain extent cleared by the + 33d, but owing to an error, for which Major Cooper was in no way to + blame, they had scarcely begun their work when we passed, instead + of having been engaged upon it for twenty-four hours. Their orders + had been to encamp at a stream five miles on from Mahkan, and then + to set to work upon the road; and as they had started twenty-four + hours before ourselves, it was <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page322">[pg 322]</span><a name="Pg322" id="Pg322" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>anticipated that the road would be perfectly + practicable for mules by the next day. The 33d were, however, + furnished with no guide, and the spring was not visible from the + line of march; consequently they marched past it, and did not find + out their error until they were miles ahead. Major Cooper then + determined upon the best course to be pursued, namely, to march + straight on to this station, to encamp there, and to march his men + back at daybreak to work upon the road. They had done a good deal + when we arrived; but of course the mules stopped their work for a + time. In some places the track was very bad; and at one of these, a + rocky wall along a ledge, on the face of which we had to pass, I + found Sir Robert Napier himself engaged in planning another road to + avoid this obstacle, which was dangerous in a high degree for + loaded animals, as the projecting load nearly pushed each one over + the edge. No accident, so far as I heard, occurred, and the delays + were nothing like so long or tedious as those we had incurred on + many previous occasions, while the delightful shade, the songs of + <a name="corr322" id="corr322" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">innumerable</span> + birds, and the fresh odour of the pine-trees rendered these halts + most enjoyable. At last we reached the summit of the last ascent, + and below us, at a distance of five miles, lay Lake Ashangi, a + pretty sheet of water of about three miles in diameter. Its shores + are in some places quite flat, but in others hills come down with + gradual slopes to its very edge. Looking at England for an + illustration, I should say that, except in being smaller, it more + resembles Ulleswater than any of our other north-country lakes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Beyond the lake + several mountain-ranges rise one beyond another, and offer no + prospect of easy journeys for some time to come. Our camp is + pitched half a mile from the lake <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page323">[pg 323]</span><a name="Pg323" id="Pg323" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>upon ground which slopes gradually down to the + water’s edge, above the level of which we are probably elevated + thirty feet. The lake and its shores swarm with ducks and geese. + The latter are very tame, and walk about to graze in the most + unconcerned manner. A great many have been shot, and are, although + rather fishy, fair eating. The great difficulty attending the sport + is the exceedingly boggy nature of the ground. The fissures spoken + of by Mr. Munzinger, and which I mentioned in my last upon the + authority of his letters, are simply nonsense. It is a large and in + some places a dangerous bog; but it is simply and purely a bog, and + nothing else. I was out yesterday with my gun, as were a dozen + others, and although I went in above my boots, I came upon nothing + really impassable, nor, with one exception, did I hear of any one + else doing so. Captain Hogg, however, of the quartermaster’s + department, got upon a very bad part of the bog, and was some time + finding his way out; indeed, he fell into one deep place, where he + would unquestionably have lost his life had he not had a man with + him, who was able to put the end of his gun within reach of Captain + Hogg’s hand, and so draw him out of the quagmire, into which he was + sinking fast. All round the level shore of the lake, a belt of + white mud of sixty or seventy yards wide extends. Upon this the + game congregate, and are safe from the sportsmen, as the mud will + not support a man’s weight, and the dead birds could not be + recovered. The geese in plumage more resemble ducks than geese, + being dark brown and green, with a large white patch upon the under + part of the wing, and which only shows during their flight. A good + many escape, who would fall victims to large shot; but the amount + of ammunition in camp is scanty, and the shot gene<span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page324">[pg 324]</span><a name="Pg324" id="Pg324" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>rally of small sizes, which merely + rattle against a goose’s feather at a distance of fifty yards.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">To-day we have + remained here quietly. Another durbar has taken place; the + ambassador, or nuncio—the latter, I suppose, being the appropriate + word—having come in from the chief Ulem of the Gallas tribes. This + man has immense influence with the Gallas, who are Mahommedans; and + it was therefore a matter of great importance to conciliate him as + far as possible. I have already described two of these official + receptions, and as this was precisely similar to those I have + before written about, I need not enter into particulars. The only + variety was, that the proceedings opened with a long letter from + the Ulem to Sir Robert Napier. It was of a most friendly character, + and expressed the priest’s concurrence in the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“belief which we hold in common, namely,”</span> he + said, <span class="tei tei-q">“the Old and New Testament, and the + Koran.”</span> I was not aware that the Koran was an essential part + of our creed, but I have learnt something from the Ulem’s letter. + Later on, too, he speaks of Mahomet as the only true mediator. + These, however, were not, apparently, according to the Ulem’s view, + points of vital difference, and he accordingly states that he prays + unceasingly in our behalf, which is, at any rate, kind on his part. + He warned us very solemnly to be extremely watchful and ever upon + our guard, and the general tone of his letter was anything but + hopeful. He mentioned that it was the custom of the country to send + presents to travellers, and that he therefore sent the chief a + present, but that the greatest present he could give us would be + his prayers. One thing is certain, if his prayers are not of vastly + greater value than his other present, they will not be of any great + worth, for the material present was a pot of <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page325">[pg 325]</span><a name="Pg325" id="Pg325" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>honey, value one dollar. The chief of + course replied civilly, expressed our toleration of all religions + and opinions, and that we had many Mussulmans in our ranks, and + stated our friendly feelings towards the people of the country. He + wound up by giving presents of robes, &c., for the priests. + These robes were put upon the ambassador, who is a son of the Ulem, + and one of the most inane-looking young men I have seen in + Abyssinia. His face, as he was being invested in the robes, was one + of the most comic things I ever saw, and the officers present had + the greatest difficulty in restraining their gravity. He looked + exactly like a baboon affecting humility. Later in the afternoon + another chief came in, preceded by tom-tom and flutes, and + accompanied by a considerable body of warriors. A remarkable thing + which I noticed then, and which I had not before seen, was that + they carried headless lances, in token of amity.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had rather a + curious scene this afternoon. A native was detected in the act of + thieving, and was sentenced by Colonel Fraser, who acts as + provost-marshal, to two dozen lashes. His friends and relatives, + however, made so great a howling that the Commander-in-chief came + out of his tent to see what was the matter. Finding that the + natives took the matter greatly to heart, he gave the man over to + be punished by themselves; and after a palaver of an hour, he was + sentenced to pay one quarter of the value of the article stolen, or + to receive six blows with a stick. Mr. Speedy was about to + remonstrate with them upon the insufficiency of the punishment, + when the chief who had acted as judge drew him aside, and stated + that in the course of the examination they had found that the + offender was a Christian, whereas they were themselves Mussulmans; + and that if they were to punish <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page326">[pg 326]</span><a name="Pg326" id="Pg326" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>him as he deserved, it would cause a war. + Throughout Abyssinia,—that is, as far as we have travelled,—even + where Christians are in the majority, the Mahommedans look down + upon them; and there is no doubt that in a moral point of view the + Mahommedans are greatly the superior. Christianity certainly does + not work well among natives. Both in India and here a Christian is + by no means a man of high standing either in respectability or + morality. It is singular that the abodes of the natives here are + precisely similar to those at Zulla. There they were built of + wattles, with conical thatched roofs. Since that time we have + passed mud huts with flat roofs, stone huts with flat roofs, stone + huts with thatched roofs, and now we have again come upon the Zulla + type of cottages, wattled walls with conical thatched roofs. The + villages are always perched upon eminences, and the houses are + crowded together and surrounded by a thick fence of boughs, with + the ends outwards like a military abattis. The natives are not + quite so dark as the people of Tigre, and are not so well armed, + for I have not seen any fire-arms among them. Sir Charles Staveley + has, I hear, arrived at Mahkan, with the 4th, the 3d Native + Cavalry, and Penn’s battery. He, like ourselves, is engaged in + road-making. The orders are, that the pioneer force are to make the + road practicable for mules, and that General Staveley’s force is to + make it practicable for elephants. As elephants can go almost + everywhere that mules are able to do, he will not be long delayed, + and will probably arrive at Lât, which is two days’ march forward, + within a day or two of ourselves. It is probable that we shall halt + two or three days there, to allow the force to concentrate. I hear + that Twiss’s Mountain Train and the Naval Rocket Brigade are only a + march behind General <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page327">[pg + 327]</span><a name="Pg327" id="Pg327" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Staveley, and will arrive with him at Lât. I + have seen to-night that the 45th has also been ordered to come on + at once, to form part of the first division. This order will not + only give satisfaction to the regiment itself, but also to us all; + for the 45th is said to be one of the best and most efficient + regiments in India.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc68" id="toc68"></a> <a name="pdf69" id="pdf69"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Lât, March 21st. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had all + looked forward to a halt at this place for at least two or three + days. This hope, however, has not been realised; for we arrived + this afternoon, and start again to-morrow morning, at which time + our real hardships may be said to commence in earnest. But it is + better, before I enter upon this, to relate our doings of the last + two days.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Leaving our camp + near Ashangi, the road ran on level ground parallel to the lake for + a mile or so, and then, the mountains approaching to the edge of + the water, we had to climb over the spur. The height was not very + great, but it was one of the roughest, and certainly the steepest + climb we have yet had. Once on the crest, the hill sloped gradually + down, and we presently came upon the water again near the head of + the lake. This spot was the next day the scene of a fatal accident. + Two or three officers came down to shoot, and one of the birds fell + into the water. One of their servants, who was a good swimmer, at + once went in to fetch it out. It is probable that he was seized + with cramp, for he sank suddenly. Captain Pottinger at once jumped + in, and swam out to the spot, but was unable to see anything of + him. Our camping-ground was about two miles distant from + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page328">[pg 328]</span><a name= + "Pg328" id="Pg328" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the head of the lake, + upon flat ground. The distance from Ashangi was little over six + miles.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We halted here + the next day in order to let General Staveley’s Brigade reach + Ashangi. This they did upon the day after we had left it. There was + considerable regret in camp to hear that General Staveley himself, + who had been attacked at Atzala with acute rheumatism, was very + much worse, and had been carried in a palkee. He had entirely lost + the use of his limbs, and it was considered improbable that he + would be able to come on farther with the army. This would be a + very great loss for the expedition, and I sincerely hope that their + apprehensions will not be verified.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The morning of + our halt, a general order was promulgated which filled us with + consternation. No baggage whatever is to be henceforward allowed + either for men or officers. Soldiers are to carry their greatcoat, + a blanket, and waterproof sheet, in addition to their rifle, + ammunition, havresack, &c. This will bring the weight to be + carried by each man up to fifty-five pounds; an overwhelming weight + over such a tremendous country as that which we have to traverse, + and beneath a tropical sun. I question very much whether the men + will be able to stand it, and several of the medical staff to whom + I have spoken are quite of that opinion. What the roads are likely + to be, is manifest enough by a portion of the general order, which + says that in future no mule is to carry over 100 pounds; and yet + the authorities put more than half that weight upon a man’s + shoulders. It is not even as if the men had their knapsacks, in + which the greatcoat, &c. could be packed, and carried with + comparative ease; they will have to be slung over the shoulders by + the coat-arms, and will distress the soldier far more than they + would have done if <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page329">[pg + 329]</span><a name="Pg329" id="Pg329" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>carried in knapsacks. It was an extraordinary + oversight leaving the knapsacks behind at Antalo; for it was + evident even then that they would be required. Unmounted officers + are to have a greatcoat, blanket, and waterproof-sheet carried for + them, and mounted officers may carry what they can put upon their + horses. No baggage-animals whatever are to go forward with luggage. + The men are to be packed twenty in a bell tent, and twelve officers + are to have the same accommodation. More than a fourth part of the + soldiers are out on picket and guard every night; therefore the + number of men in each tent will be practically about the same as + the officers. Fancy twelve officers in a tent! They will be packed + like herrings in a tub; and men are calculating to-day how many + square inches of ground each will possess. Everyone takes it + good-humouredly, and there is no grumbling whatever; but for all + that, it is rather a serious business. If it were for two or three + days, it would be all well enough; but Magdala is a considerable + distance from here. The Quartermaster-general’s department talk + about a six days’ march. Captain Speedy says that sixteen is very + much nearer the mark; and as he has a knowledge of the country, + while the Quartermaster’s department have uniformly been wrong in + their distances, it is safe to assume that it is a fifteen days’ + march; that is to say, even without allowing a day for the capture + of Magdala, or for arranging matters there, we cannot be back to + Lât under a month. There is some talk of the baggage coming up + after us; but this will certainly not come to anything. I know that + we have barely animals enough with us to carry our food, and every + available mule in the rear is coming on with Staveley’s Brigade. We + may, then, calculate with tolerable certainty that we shall not get + any of our bag<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page330">[pg + 330]</span><a name="Pg330" id="Pg330" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>gage until we return to Lât, which, at the + very earliest, will be a month hence, and not improbably twice that + time. We are told that the cold at night is very great on ahead, + and that the rains are heavy and frequent. It is therefore a very + serious matter for men to start without a single change of clothes + of any kind. Putting aside the rain, the men will suffer so greatly + from the heat, and from the labour of climbing mountains with so + heavy a load upon their backs, that it would be a most material + matter for them to have at any rate a dry flannel-shirt to put on + when the cold evening wind begins to blow. Time will show how the + men stand it; but it is certainly a hazardous experiment.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This morning we + started for this place. Lât has always been spoken of as a place + where we should halt and form a dépôt, and we had therefore + expected to have found a large village; but as far as I have seen, + there is not a native hut in the neighbourhood. Upon leaving our + last camping-ground, we ascended a lofty and steep hill, and then + had to wind for a long distance upon a rocky ledge, where a false + step would have been certain death. After several minor rises and + descents, we came down to the valley in which the stream, near + which we are encamped, runs. Although there are no villages in + sight, there must be a considerable native population in the + neighbourhood, for a large number of natives have come in with + supplies. The officers of the transport-train are buying every + sword and spear brought in, for the use of the muleteers; as, + although Theodore is reported at Magdala, he might at any moment + make a sudden march down with a few thousand men, and might be upon + us before we knew that he was within fifty miles’ distance. Should + we be attacked in one of these gorges, or on a narrow ledge with a + precipice <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page331">[pg + 331]</span><a name="Pg331" id="Pg331" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>below, scattered as we should necessarily be + over an immense length of road, Theodore might, by a sudden attack + upon our baggage, do such damage in a few minutes, that we might be + obliged to retire to Antalo, to fetch up fresh supplies. There is + no disguising the fact, that in making our rush from such a long + distance we are running no inconsiderable risk.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Sir Robert + Napier’s original plan was to have formed a dépôt with five months’ + provisions at some place about half-way between Antalo and Magdala, + and to have marched forward from that place with two months’ + provisions. Instead of this we are starting from Lât with only + fifteen days’ provisions, and there is no dépôt of any importance, + nor will there be, nearer than Antalo itself. The whole of the + available mules will accompany the advancing division, and we shall + have to depend entirely for future supplies upon the native + carriage. The stock of food we have with us will barely last us to + Magdala; we know not whether we shall be able to purchase any flour + on the way, or how we may fare for forage for our animals. Between + Antalo and Magdala are many tribes and chiefs,—we have already + passed Waldo Yasus and the Gallas,—and some of these, after we have + passed, may take it into their heads to stop the native animals + going up with stores; and the whole of the system upon which we + have solely to depend would then break down, and our position would + be as precarious a one as it is possible to imagine. It is indeed a + tremendous risk to run; but then we are playing for a very high + stake. We are running a race with the rains. If we were to stop + here for a fortnight or three weeks, and to send the whole of the + transport animals down to Antalo to fetch up more provisions, we + should infallibly have to wait <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page332">[pg 332]</span><a name="Pg332" id="Pg332" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>out here over the rainy season; and the + difficulties of provisioning the force during that period, and the + probable mortality which might ensue, would be so great that Sir + Robert Napier no doubt considers himself justified in running a + very considerable risk in order to reach the sea-coast before the + rains. Of course the matter has been discussed and talked over in + every light among the officers; and the general opinion is, that + unless we obtain an unlooked-for supply, as we did at Antalo, + somewhere between this and Magdala, our position will be a very + critical one. With most other generals, men would, I think, be + inclined to take rather a gloomy view of it; but everyone has such + confidence in Sir Robert Napier that they are quite content to + leave matters in his hands.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc70" id="toc70"></a> <a name="toc71" id="toc71"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Dildee, March 24th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I sent off a + very hurriedly-written letter two days since from Lât. In these two + days we have crossed thirty-one miles of as rough a country as the + warmest admirer of the desolate and savage could wish to see. + Around us, as far as the eye could reach, was stretched a perfect + sea of mountains; and up and down these we have tumbled and + stumbled—not a few horses getting tremendous falls—from morning + until long after nightfall. It has been one long monotonous toil. + Sometimes we climb upon smooth slippery rock; then we ascend steep + paths covered with loose boulders of every size; then we are upon a + narrow ledge on a mountain’s face; then we are crashing through + thick bushes. One can no longer keep count of the number of ravines + we cross, for we climb a dozen hills a day. It would puzzle even + the engineers of the Topographical Department to lay down this + rugged and <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page333">[pg + 333]</span><a name="Pg333" id="Pg333" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>broken country in a map. It would be as easy + to make a map of the Straits of Dover, and to draw each wave to its + proper scale. The toil of the troops during these two days has been + tremendous. The first day’s march was thirteen miles; yesterday’s + was eighteen,—many say it was twenty; but I think a long eighteen + was about the mark. Eighteen miles would be a long march in + England, but here it is a tremendous journey. Each man is carrying + with him ammunition, &c.—fifty-five pounds—more than half a + mule-load. In addition to this, most of the troops are now upon + baggage-guard, and have to assist in constantly adjusting loads and + looking after the mules. Lastly, a fourth of the troops are out + every night upon picket. I had occasion, in a letter written from + Mahkan, to speak upon the cruel over-marching of men and animals; + but that was nothing to these two days’ marches. The country now is + much rougher, the distances longer, and the men have in addition to + carry their kits. The troops came in last night in a prostrate + state; very many did not come in at all. I should say that not more + than half the baggage arrived until this morning; and to add to the + other disagreeables, we had a tremendous thunderstorm about eight + o’clock, which wetted every soul, except the very few who had been + fortunate enough to get up their tents, to the skin. The men have + no change of clothes with them, and of course had to sleep in their + wet clothes. Of those who were on the road when the rain began, + some held on and came straggling in up to ten o’clock; the greater + number, however, unrolled their blanket and waterproof-sheet, and + lay down where they were for the night. I say fearlessly that such + a march over such a country was never before made by + similarly-weighted men. Of course we have to halt to-day, + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page334">[pg 334]</span><a name= + "Pg334" id="Pg334" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and then by to-night + we shall have progressed a less distance towards Magdala than we + should have done had we made three days’ marches of, say, eleven + miles each. Nor is there any reason why we should not have done so. + We are fortunately now in a well-watered country. Good-sized + streams run between each of the higher ranges, and we crossed four + or five of them yesterday.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">General + Staveley, who I am glad to hear is better, is only one day in our + rear. An officer has gone back this morning to direct him to halt + to-night at the stream three and a half miles behind. The weather + has been warmer for the last two days, and this has of course + increased the labour of the soldiers. Had it not been for the + frequent occurrence of water, I do not think that one quarter of + the troops would have got in last night. Yesterday’s camp was + admirably chosen for defensive purposes, being surrounded on all + sides by a deep nullah. To-day’s camp is convenient, and is also + defended on one side by a nullah, but has the disadvantage that the + nullah is two hundred feet deep, and is extremely precipitous, the + water being only accessible even on foot at two places, and + consequently the difficulty of watering the animals is very great. + The water, however, and indeed all that we have met with for the + last day or two, is delicious. This is indeed a treat. Hitherto the + water has been singularly nasty—thick and full of insects when + stagnant, earthy and bad-tasting when running. Here it is fresh, + clear, and pure. Rum is quite at a discount. The ravine through + which the stream runs is very picturesque. The slope is steep, but + well-wooded down to the bottom of the nullah; but the stream itself + has cut a way from twenty to thirty feet wide through the solid + rock at the bottom. The sides <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page335">[pg 335]</span><a name="Pg335" id="Pg335" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>are as perpendicular as walls, and are in some + places thirty feet deep. It is only, as I have said, at two points + that we can get down to the water. This narrow gorge is overhung + with trees, and in every cranny and on every tiny ledge grow lovely + patches of green ferns. It requires no stretch of fancy to imagine + oneself by the side of a pretty mountain-stream in Wales or + Ireland. The vegetation is too bright and varied for a Highland + stream. Nearly every officer in camp, and a good number of the men, + have been down this morning for a bathe, which is doubly refreshing + after the fatigue of yesterday and the paucity of our present + washing appliances. The camp yesterday morning presented quite an + unusual appearance. The head-quarter camp had shrivelled in + dimensions from twenty tents down to four; and outside of them, + soon after daybreak, the whole staff might be seen engaged in the + various processes of washing and dressing. Twelve men may manage to + sleep in a tent, but it is quite impossible that they can + simultaneously dress there. Not, indeed, that any of the tents + contained their full complement. Some had slung their blankets like + hammocks upon the trees; others were content to roll themselves in + their rugs, and sleep upon a waterproof-sheet under a bush; and + besides this there was a hospital-tent, and as there are no sick, + some of the officers were drafted off into this. Indeed, all might + have been very much more comfortable, had those of their number + who, like ourselves, have brought <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">tentes + d’abri</span></span>, been allowed to carry them on their horses. I + was very fortunate in getting into shelter before the storm came on + last night. I had ridden on before my spare horse, which, with my + tent and etceteras upon his back, was nearly at the rear of the + column. I arrived here about half-past four, <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page336">[pg 336]</span><a name="Pg336" id="Pg336" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>having been nearly nine hours upon the + road; and I was fairly exhausted when I got in from fatigue and + want of food. Fortunately, however, the natives had brought in + bread for sale, and after eating some of this, and going down to + the nullah for a bathe, I was quite restored again. I was not, + however, comfortable in my mind; for the clouds had been banking-up + fast, and the thunder had been almost incessant in the hills for + the last two hours. I could see by the baggage which was coming in, + that my animal could not, if he kept his place in the line, be in + for hours, if at all. When I got up to the camp, I was delighted to + see my little tent pitched. My companion, who had been behind me, + had, finding that the road was badly blocked, got them along by + other paths, fortunately without more damage than one of the horses + falling over a precipice twelve or thirteen feet high, into some + bushes, which broke the animal’s fall. The horse was but little + hurt; and with this slight mishap, which is nothing here, where + horses and mules are constantly rolling over steep places, he had + succeeded in getting into camp three or four hours before the + animals could have possibly reached it, had they kept in their + original place in the line; indeed it was most improbable that they + could have got in last night at all. The lightning during the next + half-hour was incessant, and before the dinner could be cooked, + great drops began to patter down. We shouted to the servants to do + the best they could for themselves with their blankets and + waterproof-sheets, while we took refuge in our little tent, with an + officer whose baggage, like that of the great majority, had not + arrived. In a minute or two, it came down almost in a sheet. We lit + our pipes, and consoled ourselves that if we had nothing to eat, we + were no worse off than anyone else, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page337">[pg 337]</span><a name="Pg337" id="Pg337" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>whereas we were in shelter, while hardly + another soul was so. While thus philosophising to our own + contentment, the front of the tent was suddenly opened, and a hand + was thrust in with a dish of cutlets, then plates and knives and + forks. Our fellows had nobly stuck to their work, preferring to get + drenched to the skin rather than that their masters should go + without dinner. These Goa-men are certainly excellent servants. + They are not physically strong: they are quiet, weakly-looking men, + with little energy and no habitude to hardships. They make capital + hotel-waiters, but could scarcely have been expected to have + supported the fatigue of a campaign like this. They do so, however, + and seem none the worse for it. Altogether they are worth any money + upon an expedition of this sort, and are infinitely more + serviceable than an English servant would be.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The storm ceased + last night at about half-past ten. It is now thundering among the + distant hills, and it is evident that we shall have, this + afternoon, a repetition of last night’s storm. It will, however, + find us better prepared to withstand it. The natives are bringing + in an abundance of goods of all kinds. Honey, grain, onions, goats, + sheep, fowls, bread, and eggs. The fowls and eggs are the first we + have seen since Attegrat. Prices rule about the same. Two little + fowls, a dollar; twelve eggs—about half of which average bad—at the + same price. A bottle of honey, a dollar, &c. Dear as things + are, it is unnecessary to say that they are all eagerly bought up. + We are accustomed to high prices now; and I heard a soldier, who + did not get in until this morning, say that he paid a dollar in the + night for a drink of water.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Of course we + have now a constant succession of news from the front. It is very + contradictory, but the general report is <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page338">[pg 338]</span><a name="Pg338" id="Pg338" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>that Theodore is marching towards Dalanta, to + attack us on our way. Some of the spies assert that two o’clock on + Friday night is the hour fixed for our destruction. If Theodore + does mean, as is likely enough, to make a night attack, I do not + think he would be weak enough to let it be known many hours + beforehand as to where it will take place. However, it is no use + offering any speculation now upon events which we may see + determined in two or three days, and the result of which will be + known by telegraph long before this letter can reach London.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc72" id="toc72"></a> <a name="pdf73" id="pdf73"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Santarai, March 29th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We are beginning + to believe Magdala to be a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">fata morgana</span></span>, an <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">ignis + fatuus</span></span>, which gets more and more distant the nearer + we approach it. At Dildee we were told that it was only four + marches distant. We have made three marches, and have sixty more + miles to go; and yet Magdala is not more than twenty-five miles in + a straight line, and is visible from a point four miles distant + from this camp. It is found, however, that the country is perfectly + impracticable, and that we must take a detour of sixty miles to get + there. I can hardly imagine what this country in a direct line to + Magdala can be like, for we have passed over hundreds of miles + which no one would have imagined it possible for an army with its + baggage-animals to surmount. We have scaled mountains and descended + precipices; we have wound along the face of deep ravines, where a + false step was death; we are familiar with smooth slippery rock and + with loose boulders; and after this expedition it can hardly be + said that any country is impracticable for an army determined to + advance. I hear, however, that between this and Magdala there are + perpendicular <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page339">[pg + 339]</span><a name="Pg339" id="Pg339" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>precipices running like walls for miles, + places which could scarcely be scaled by experienced cragsmen, much + less by loaded mules. We must therefore make a detour. It is + tiresome, for everyone is burning with impatience to be at Magdala, + and to solve the long-debated problems—will Theodore fight? will he + fight in the open, or defend Magdala? or will he hand over the + captives with an apology? and shall we be content to receive one? I + believe that I can answer the last question with certainty. We + shall not. If Theodore sends in the captives we shall receive them, + but shall certainly exact retribution from him. We shall either + take him prisoner or compel him to fly. If we obtain the prisoners + unhurt, we shall still take Magdala. If he escape to the mountains + with a few adherents, we shall, in that case, be content to retire, + and to leave the task of hunting him down to his numerous enemies; + but if he murder the prisoners we shall ourselves remain here until + he is captured. I think I may positively state that this, or + something very like it, is the tenor of the instructions given to + Sir Robert Napier by the Government; and I think that they will be + heartily approved by all, except by those negrophilists who deny + that a black man can do wrong. It would be impossible to allow + Theodore to go unpunished; indeed, it would be offering a premium + to all savage potentates in future time to make prisoners of any + English travellers who may fall into their hands.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I now return to + Dildee, from which place I last wrote, while we were halting in + consequence of the tremendous march of the preceding day. Upon the + evening of the day upon which we halted we heard that General + Staveley had arrived with the force under his command at a stream + five <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page340">[pg 340]</span><a name= + "Pg340" id="Pg340" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>miles in our rear, + and had there halted. He had with him the 4th, a wing of the 33d, + six companies of the Punjaub Pioneers, Twiss’s Battery, and the + Naval Rocket Train. It was decided that the wing of the 33d, who + were with us, should halt for a day, and should come on as a + complete regiment, and that the 4th, which is numerically much + weaker than the 33d, should push on with the advance. The next + day’s march was short, but severe, as we had to climb a mountain + 3000 feet above our camping-ground. It was hard work, but was got + over much more speedily than usual, as the train was much smaller, + owing to our diminished numbers; and we had consequently fewer of + the tedious blocks so trying to both man and beast. The road was in + most places pretty good; but was dangerous for a long distance + where it wound along the face of a deep ravine. The country here + must be either much more densely populated, or the people much more + industrious than in most of the districts over which we have + passed; for there were patches of cultivation to the very top of + the mountain, which, where we crossed it, was about 11,000 feet + above the sea. The mountain side was bare of trees, or even bushes; + but, curiously enough, very near the summit were large quantities + of small palm-trees, with thick straight stems, three or four feet + high, and clustered heads of spreading leaves. Several Indian + officers agreed with me in considering them to be a species of + palm, but we had no botanist amongst us, and it seemed most + unlikely that even dwarf palm-trees should be growing in such a + lofty and exposed position. I have only before seen palm-trees + twice in Abyssinia, once at Goun Gonna, where two or three grew + near the church, and in a valley between Attegrat and + Antalo.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page341">[pg + 341]</span><a name="Pg341" id="Pg341" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Arrived at the + top of the pass, we found ourselves at the head of a deep ravine, + on the side of which, a quarter of a mile from the summit, it was + decided that the camp should be pitched. A more uncomfortable place + for a camp could hardly be imagined. The ground was ploughed, and + was extremely sloping. The supply of water was deficient, and was + four or five hundred feet below us, and the wind swept over the top + of the pass with piercing force. However, there was no help for it. + The 4th had started four miles behind us, and there was no ground + even so good as that selected for another seven miles. Immediately + on our arrival, and before the tents were pitched, a tremendous + shower came on, and everyone got drenched before the + baggage-animals arrived with the tents. The black earth turned, as + if by magic, into slimy clay, and our position was the reverse of + agreeable. Far worse, however, was the condition of the 4th, which, + having halted at Dildee for two hours, did not arrive until between + eight and nine in the evening, wetted of course to the skin. We now + felt bitterly the inconvenience of not having even one change of + clothes with us. It could, however, have hardly been foreseen that, + after having had only two or three showers since we arrived in + Abyssinia, we were to be exposed to heavy rains regularly every + day, which has, with one exception, been the case for the last + week. As it is, it is impossible to say how long we shall be in our + present state of only having the clothes we stand in. It is a week + since we left our little all behind us at Lât. We are still a + week’s march from Magdala, and may calculate on being fully a month + without our baggage. Officers have all managed somehow to bring on + a second shirt and pair of stockings; but the soldiers have no + change of any kind. For them, and indeed <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page342">[pg 342]</span><a name="Pg342" id="Pg342" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>for the officers, to be wetted through day + after day, and to have no dry clothes to put on, and this at an + altitude of 11,000 feet above the sea, and when the cold at night + is more pierceing than anything I ever experienced, is trying in + the extreme, and a great many are already complaining of rheumatic + pains. That night at the top of the hill was the most unpleasant + that officers or men have passed since their arrival in the + country: wet through, cold, and lying upon ground so steep that we + kept perpetually sliding down off our waterproof sheet. As to lying + in the orthodox fashion, side by side, with all the heels close to + the pole, like the spokes of a wheel, the thing was simply + impossible. In many of the tents the men’s feet would have been a + yard higher than their heads. However, there were few grumblings at + the discomfort; but I can answer that I for one was greatly pleased + when I saw daylight break, to get up from my uncomfortable sliding + couch. We were ordered to start at eight, but the men’s things were + still so wet that the march was postponed for two hours, to allow + the blankets and greatcoats to be dried in the wind and sun.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our next march + was again only seven miles to a place called Muja, not that there + was a village of any kind there, or indeed at eighteen out of + twenty places we have stopped at. To suppose that the natives have + a name for every field is absurd. Two speculations have been + started as to how the quartermaster-general’s department always + obtain a name for our camping-ground—the one is that they say + something to a native, and the first word he utters they put down + at once for the station; the other is that they draw a certain + number of vowels and consonants from a bag, drop them on the + ground, and see what word they form. It is certain that + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page343">[pg 343]</span><a name= + "Pg343" id="Pg343" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>scarcely a name + corresponds with those set down in maps, and instead of calling + these flats and plains by any name the first native may tell them, + it would be much more sensible, and would render it much more easy + for an English reader to follow our course, if our quartermasters + were to take some good map, and fix upon the name which most nearly + corresponds with the position of our camps.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The seven-miles + road down to Muja was not difficult, but was one of the most + dangerous we have passed over. The path for the whole distance + wound along on the face of a deep ravine. It was often little more + than a foot wide, and was formed sometimes upon rock, and sometimes + on black earth, which had been dried hard by the wind and sun + before we passed along it, but which if wet would have been + perfectly impassable. Had a storm come on when we were upon it, we + must have stopped to unload the animals. As it was, only one + stumbled and went over the edge, and was of course killed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We have had a + good many casualties lately among the animals. The Scinde Horse, + too, have lost several horses, but this is hardly surprising from + the way in which they ride them. A Scinde horseman, and I believe + most of the native cavalry, have an idea that it shows good + horsemanship to ride a horse up and down very steep places. It + would be a great saving of horseflesh if an order were issued that + all native cavalry should dismount and lead their horses up, if not + down also, long or steep hills. Our camping-ground at Muja was flat + and turfy, but it had the disadvantage of being a great height + above water. Sir Robert Napier himself upon his arrival rode a + couple of miles farther in search of some site more convenient for + watering the animals, but he was unsuccessful in <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page344">[pg 344]</span><a name="Pg344" id="Pg344" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>doing so. The camping-ground had also + the disadvantage of a very great scarcity of wood.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our view from + Muja was very striking. Six miles in front, and a thousand feet + below us, lay the valley of the Tacazze. Beyond arose a straight + line of mountains, more steep and formidable than anything we have + hitherto seen. The slope at their feet was comparatively easy, but + it increased rapidly, and a wall of perpendicular rock of upwards + of a hundred feet high ran along the crests without the slightest + apparent break. The range looked like a mighty natural barrier to + our further progress into Abyssinia. However, we knew that the + exploring-party was upon the plateau on the summit, having gone up + by the native road. Our order for the morrow was, that we were to + march early down to the Tacazze; that we were to encamp in the + valley, and that the troops were to set to work to make the road up + the ghaut practicable for our ascent upon the following day. At + eight o’clock in the evening, however, Captain Fawcett, of the + quartermaster’s department, rode into camp with a letter from + Colonel Phayre, evidently written in great consternation of mind, + and saying that Mr. Munzinger, who is with Gobayze’s army, was + missing, and had no doubt fallen into Theodore’s hands—that + Theodore himself, with his army, had crossed the Bachelo river, and + was advancing to attack us; and urging that more troops should be + sent on.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Of course there + was great excitement in the camp at this news. We were only + thirty-five miles in a straight line from Magdala, only + twenty-three from the Bachelo, and as Theodore, with his + lightly-weighted natives would march nearly straight, it was + probable that we should be attacked on the next night. In another + hour an order was issued, which <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page345">[pg 345]</span><a name="Pg345" id="Pg345" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>showed that Sir Robert Napier, as well as + ourselves, looked upon this information as most important. The + column was only to halt for two or three hours at the Tacazze, + while a strong working-party made the road to some extent passable. + We were then to march up it, and to encamp upon the plateau for the + night.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was evident + that the Commander-in-chief felt the importance of gaining the + summit of the precipitous range opposite before Theodore got to its + top to prevent our so doing. All the evening our talk was of + Sniders and night-attacks, and every <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">pro</span></span> and + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">con</span></span> was warmly discussed. At + seven the troops started, and in two hours and a half reached the + Tacazze. The Tacazze is here an insignificant stream, very inferior + to many of those we have previously crossed. Indeed, it is more a + succession of pools than a stream, and yet as one crossed it, one + could not forget that this was one of the fountain-heads of the + mighty Nile—that it was this little streamlet, which, swollen by a + thousand tributaries, rushes every July into the main river, + raising its level many feet, and fertilising all Egypt with the + rich Abyssinian soil it carries down.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We went on + half-a-mile farther across the valley to a point where the + commissariat had collected a dépôt of grain. Here the mules were + unloaded, fed and watered, and the troops had breakfast, while + strong fatigue-parties of the Beloochees, Punjaubees, and 4th went + up the hill to work upon the road, under the direction of Captains + Goodfellow and Lemessurier of the Engineers. In three hours + afterwards the signallers on the top of the hill waved us word that + the road was passable, and we started for a climb of a clear two + thousand five hundred feet. It was hard work, but the road was + sur<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page346">[pg 346]</span><a name= + "Pg346" id="Pg346" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>prisingly free from + difficulties or dangers until we reached within two or three + hundred feet of the top. Then there were some exceedingly nasty + bits, but upon the whole it was nothing like what we had + anticipated, and not to be compared to many places we have before + passed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">As we reached + the top, Colonel Cameron called upon the 4th for three cheers, + telling them that thrashing Theodore would be nothing to the task + of climbing that hill. The men responded heartily but feebly; + breath, not inclination, being wanting. They then marched cheerily + on across a plateau level for another mile, in high spirits at the + brush they were looking forward to with Theodore. We soon found, as + I had imagined that we should do, that this anticipation was + destined for the present to be disappointed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Munzinger was + not missing, and never had been. He had gone out for a ride, and + his servant said, on being questioned, that he did not know where + he was. Theodore had not crossed, and apparently had not the least + idea of crossing the Bachelo, but was still making every effort to + get his guns into Magdala.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had no sooner + reached the plateau than we became conscious of a very great change + in the temperature. The wind blew bitterly cold, and not a single + tree or even bush of the smallest size was visible for the purposes + of firewood. There were numerous native cattle grazing on the + hill-sides, and the men at once set to work to pick up dried + cow-dung, which the natives habitually use for fuel; others busied + themselves in cutting peat; and the fires were soon lighted under + the cooking-pots. At six o’clock we had our usual heavy rain, + lasting for two hours; but fortunately before it set in the tents + were safely pitched. Only, therefore, the men on <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page347">[pg 347]</span><a name="Pg347" id="Pg347" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>duty got wet. The night was most + piercingly cold. To say that ice formed upon water gives no idea + whatever of the cold. A strong March east wind blew with a force + which penetrated to the very bones. I can safely say that never in + my life did I feel the cold so much as I have the two last nights. + The troops, especially the natives, of course feel it still more + severely. Rheumatic pains are beginning to be generally felt, and a + week of this work will fill the hospital-tents. The cold will tell + more severely when the stock of rum is exhausted. Each regiment + brought up some with their fifteen days’ supplies, and this is not + yet exhausted; but the commissariat supply is finished, and we have + had none now for four days. The sugar has been also exhausted, and + the tea was running very short. I am happy to say, however, that a + fresh supply has arrived to-day; for cold water only in such a + climate as this would be the reverse of cheering.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was arranged + that we should halt here for two days, to allow General Staveley to + come up with the force under him. Yesterday, early, news was + brought in to the Chief that the uncle of Wagshum Gobayze was + coming in to pay a visit, and Major Grant and Captain Moore went + out to meet him. The Adjutant-general carelessly omitted to notify + the pickets of the coming of the envoy; and accordingly, when the + outlying sentry of the 4th regiment saw a body of 700 or 800 + horsemen advancing, he naturally supposed that it was the enemy. He + very properly called out the picket, who loaded their Sniders, and + went out in skirmishing order to meet the enemy. In another quarter + of a minute they would have opened fire, when an officer of the 4th + came running up and stopped them. Had he been a minute later the + consequences would have been most disastrous. Every shot would have + told upon the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page348">[pg + 348]</span><a name="Pg348" id="Pg348" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>dense body of horsemen, and the twenty men, in + the minute or two which must have elapsed before the cavalry could + have reached them, would have done terrible execution; and even had + the cavalry charged, would, by falling into a small square, not + improbably have defended themselves against the whole force. But + the lives so sacrificed would have been only the beginning of + misfortunes. Nothing would ever have convinced Gobayze that the + affair was the result of a mistake, and we should have had him for + our foe as well as Theodore. And with Wagshum’s army hovering + around us, cutting off our baggage-train and attacking small + parties, our position would be indeed a precarious one.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Wagshum + Gobayze’s uncle arrived with his body of cavalry at the other side + of the little stream which borders our camp, and here halted for a + few minutes. The troops were in the mean time paraded in front of + their respective lines. Gobayze’s troops, of whom there were 700 or + 800 present, drew up in a long line and dismounted, every man + sitting down in front of his horse. They were by far the most + formidable body we have seen since our arrival in this country. + They were really cavalry, and rode small but very strong and + serviceable horses. They were armed with shield and spear. I do not + of course mean that these troops could stand for a moment against a + charge of regular cavalry. It is probable that a hundred of the + Scinde Horse or of the 3d Cavalry would scatter them like chaff; + but for rough work, for dashing down a mountain side and attacking + a convoy, they would be most formidable enemies. Their horses are + all unshod, are marvellously surefooted, and will go at a gallop + over places where an English horse could scarcely walk. We were + greatly surprised at the sight of this body of cavalry, + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page349">[pg 349]</span><a name= + "Pg349" id="Pg349" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>for heretofore we had + not seen an animal which could even by courtesy be called a horse + since we landed in Abyssinia.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Leaving the main + body of the force behind, the envoy advanced, escorted by the 3d + Cavalry, who had gone out to meet him, and attended only by a dozen + or so of his personal followers. As he passed through the lines the + regiments saluted and the bands played. The envoy was an + intelligent-looking man, dressed in a crimson-silk dressing-gown, + brocaded with yellow; over this he wore the universal Abyssinian + white-cloth wrapping, and had a white turban upon his head. By his + side rode the officers who had gone out to meet him and Mr. + Munzinger. The envoy could not be received in a public durbar, as + the previous ambassadors have been, for Sir Robert Napier has now + only a small tent of some eight to ten feet square. I am unable to + say, therefore, what took place at the interview, except that the + envoy expressed very considerable dread of Theodore, who, he said, + had 10,000 men, and would unquestionably fight us at Magdala.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the + conclusion of the interview the envoy was presented with a horse + and a double-barrelled gun. While the interview was going on we + amused ourselves by inspecting the envoy’s shield, which was + carried by an attendant, and was a very magnificent affair indeed. + The shield itself was of course of rhinoceros hide, and upon it was + a piece of lion’s skin, with numerous raised bosses of + gilt-filigree work, which appeared to me to be of Indian + workmanship. It was one of the ten royal shields, all precisely + similar, which exist in Abyssinia. The attendants were mostly fine, + well-built fellows, as were the general body of cavalry, and of + superior physique to any men we had hitherto seen. I should + men<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page350">[pg 350]</span><a name= + "Pg350" id="Pg350" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>tion that all the + horses have a strap going from the forehead down to the nose, upon + which are two or more round plates of metal with a sharp spike in + them, exactly resembling, but smaller, those worn upon the + foreheads of the horses of the knights of old. The 4th, the Scinde + Horse, and a body of 3d Native Cavalry, were drawn up in front of + the tent, and saluted as the envoy left. There is no doubt that + Theodore will be no despicable foe, and the further we go the more + evident this becomes. Gobayze’s army is said to be 20,000 strong; + and if, as I understand, those we saw to-day were a fair sample of + them, they would be certainly formidable antagonists. And yet + Gobayze has been watching Theodore for months, and did not dare to + attack him, even when encumbered by his artillery and baggage. + Gobayze indeed confesses that his army would have no chance with + that of Theodore. The army of the latter, then, when garrisoning a + position of such immense natural strength as that of Magdala, will + be formidable even to an army of 4000 British troops. There can be + no doubt that we shall capture the place; but the British public + must not be surprised if we do not do it directly we arrive.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Sir Charles + Staveley arrived to-day with his force, which slept last night at a + halting-place at the foot of the ghaut. I am glad to say that the + general has so far recovered from his attack of rheumatism as to be + able to sit on his horse for a portion of the journey. He brought + with him the whole of the 33d, six companies of the Punjaub + Pioneers, Twiss’s steel battery, the 3d Native Cavalry, and the + Naval Rocket Brigade. The 45th regiment, the 3d Dragoon Guards, and + the second wing of the Beloochees are all coming up by forced + marches, and, as well as the elephants with G 14 Battery, + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page351">[pg 351]</span><a name= + "Pg351" id="Pg351" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>will arrive here in + three days. This afternoon the Naval Brigade went out to exhibit + rocket practice. There was not room in the valley for the practice, + and they therefore went up on to a hill, and fired at another hill + about 2000 yards distant. There are twelve mules, each with a tube, + and there is a supply of ninety rockets to each tube: there are + four men to each tube, beside the man who leads the mule. At the + word <span class="tei tei-q">“unload!”</span> the tubes, which are + about three feet in length, are quickly taken off the mules and + arranged in line. Each tube is provided with a sort of stand, with + a marked elevator, by which it can be adjusted to any required + angle. The order at first was to fire at ten degrees of elevation; + and upon the word <span class="tei tei-q">“fire!”</span> being + given, one after another of the rockets (which have no stick) + rushed from the tube, and buzzed through the air to the top of the + opposite hill. Three rockets were fired to this elevation, and then + three from an elevation of five degrees. A very strong wind was + blowing, and it was difficult therefore to form any opinion of the + accuracy of aim attainable. The bolts as they shot through the air + certainly did not appear to swerve in the slightest from their + original line; and there is no doubt that this novel instrument of + war will strike terror into the hearts of the garrison of + Magdala.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc74" id="toc74"></a> <a name="pdf75" id="pdf75"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Scindee, April 5th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When I wrote + from Santarai we were twenty-five miles in a direct line from + Magdala. After marching thirty-five miles we are at exactly the + same distance. In fact, we have marched along the base of a + triangle, of which Magdala forms the apex. We have been obliged to + do this to arrive <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page352">[pg + 352]</span><a name="Pg352" id="Pg352" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>at + the one practicable point for crossing the tremendous ravine of the + Djedda. For the whole of this distance we have marched along a + nearly level plateau ten thousand feet above the sea. The sun by + day has been exceedingly hot, the wind at night piercingly cold, + and we have had heavy thunderstorms of an afternoon. The extremes + of temperature are very great, and it is indeed surprising that the + troops preserve their health as they do. I have seen the + thermometer register 145° at eleven o’clock, and go down to 19° at + night. The plateau land has been bare and monotonous in the + extreme, not a single shrub, however small, breaks the view, and + the only variety whatever has been, that whereas in most places the + soil is a black friable loam, at others it is so covered with + stones of all sizes that the soil itself is scarcely visible, and + travelling is difficult and painful in the extreme. Our first march + was twelve miles in length to Gazoo, which is the name of a stream + running for nearly the whole distance parallel to our line of + march. At Gazoo, the very serious news reached us that the + arrangements for the native transport had broken down, and that no + supplies were on their way up. This was what I had, when we started + from Lât for our rush forward, foreseen was exceedingly likely to + happen, and our position at once became a very precarious one. We + had only six days’ provision remaining. Magdala was five days’ + march distant. It was now certain that no fresh supplies could + possibly arrive until long after those we have with us are + exhausted. It is hardly probable that we shall find any provisions + upon our way, for to-morrow we shall come upon Theodore’s track, + and it is said that he has burnt and plundered the whole country in + the neighbourhood of his line of route. It is very doubtful whether + we shall <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page353">[pg + 353]</span><a name="Pg353" id="Pg353" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>obtain enough food for our animals; even now, + when in a cultivated country which has not been ravaged, forage is + very scarce, and the animals are upon the very shortest allowance + which will keep life together. The prospect, therefore, was gloomy + indeed, and there was a rumour that the Chief had made up his mind + to halt, and to send the whole of the animals back to bring up + provisions. This idea, however, if it was ever entertained, was + abandoned; those energetic officers, Major Grant and Captain Moore, + were sent back to endeavour to arrange the hitch in the native + carriage; the ration of biscuit was reduced from a pound to + half-a-pound per diem, and the army moved on. Fortunately news came + up that the natives were bringing in a thousand pounds of flour + a-day to the commissariat station which had been established at the + Tacazze, and with these and our half-rations we might hold on for + some time.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The next day’s + march was sixteen miles, to Ad <a name="corr353" id="corr353" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">Gazoo,</span> + through a country precisely similar in character to that passed on + the preceding day, except that it was more cultivated. The + villages, indeed, were everywhere scattered, and although small + were snug and comfortable-looking, the little clusters of eight or + ten huts, with their high conical thatched roofs, looking very like + snug English homesteads with their rickyards. Here, as indeed + through the whole of the latter part of our journey, the people + came out to gaze on the passing army of white strangers. + Picturesque groups they formed as they squatted by the wayside. In + the centre would probably be the priest, and next to him the + patriarch and the chief of the village. Round them would sit the + other men, and behind these the women and girls would stand, the + latter chattering and laughing among themselves, or to the + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page354">[pg 354]</span><a name= + "Pg354" id="Pg354" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>younger men, who + stood beside them. Here, too, would be the mothers, some with their + little fat babies in their arms, some with two or three children + hanging round them, and peeping bashfully out at the strange white + men. Some of the women would generally have brought goats, or a pot + of honey, or a jar of milk or ghee, or a bag of grain to sell, but + they soon forgot to offer them in their surprise at the strange + attires and beautiful horses of the strangers.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From Ad Gazoo we + yesterday moved our camp to this place, a distance of only two + miles, Sir Charles Staveley bringing up his division to the camp we + had left, so that the whole force is now well together in case of + an attack. An affair took place yesterday evening, the consequences + of which might have been very serious. Ashasta, Gobayze’s uncle, + who visited us at Santarai, again came into camp with a couple of + hundred followers. Care had been taken this time to prevent the + possibility of his being fired into by the pickets, and when his + visit was over he was escorted by an officer beyond the lines. + After he had left us, he went to a village not far distant, where + he billeted half of his men. With the remainder he started for + another village; but upon his way he passed close to an outlying + picket of General Staveley’s brigade, consisting of a corporal and + four men of the 3d Native Infantry. These men of course knew + nothing of his having come from our camp, and shouted to the party + to keep their distance. The natives, who, as I have before said, + have a strong impression that we cannot fight, replied by derisive + cries and by brandishing their lances. The corporal, naturally + supposing that it was a party of Theodore’s cavalry, ordered one of + his men to fire, which was answered by a couple of shots on the + part of the natives. The corporal then <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page355">[pg 355]</span><a name="Pg355" id="Pg355" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>gave the word to the others to fire, and then + to charge, and the little party, sword in hand, went gallantly at + the numerous party of their supposed enemy. Ashasta, seeing that it + was a mistake, ordered his men to retreat, which they did, pursued + by the picket, who came up with some of the hindmost of the party. + They pursued for some distance, and then halted. Two of the natives + were killed in the affair, one with a bullet, one by a + sword-thrust, and two others were wounded. At the sound of the + firing Staveley’s brigade was called out under arms, and + considerable excitement prevailed for some time. Late in the + evening, when the matter was understood, M. Munzinger went out to + explain to Ashasta how it had happened; and as the men killed were + not chiefs, and human life does not go for much in Abyssinia, our + apologies were accepted, and Ashasta came into camp again to-day. + Thus what might have been a very serious business is happily + arranged. The men upon picket are in no way to blame; in fact, they + behaved with great gallantry, and must have opened the eyes of the + natives to the fact that we can fight when we like. Technically, + they were somewhat to blame in charging, as the rule is that a + picket should never advance, but should fire and hold its ground + when possible, or retire upon its supports if threatened by an + overwhelming force.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Naval Rocket + Brigade now form a portion of this camp. They are an admirable body + of men, and do great credit to Captain Fellowes, their commanding + officer. They support the fatigues and hardships with the + good-temper peculiar to naval men. They march, contrary to what + might have been expected, even better than the soldiers, and never + fall out, even on the most fatiguing journeys. They are a great + amusement to the troops, and their admonitions to <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page356">[pg 356]</span><a name="Pg356" id="Pg356" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>their mules, which they persist in + treating as ships, are irresistibly comic. I saw a sailor the other + day who was leading a mule, while a comrade walked behind it. A + stoppage occurred, but he went right on into the midst of a number + of soldiers.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Hallo, Jack!”</span> they said good-humouredly, + <span class="tei tei-q">“where are you coming?”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Coming?”</span> Jack said, <span class="tei tei-q">“I + ain’t coming anywhere. I am only towing the craft; it’s the chap + behind does the steering.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is always so + with them. The head-rope is always either the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“tow-rope”</span> or <span class="tei tei-q">“the + painter.”</span> They starboard or port their helm, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“tack through a crowd,”</span> or <span class= + "tei tei-q">“wear the ship round”</span> in a most amusing way. + They have of course shore-titles for the occasion, but do not + always answer to them.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The other day I + heard an officer call out, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Sergeant-major!”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">No answer.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Sergeant-major!”</span> This time louder.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Still no + reply.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A third and + still louder hail produced no response.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Boatswain, where the devil are you?”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Ay, ay, sir!”</span> was the instant answer from the + man, who was standing close by, but who had quite forgotten his new + rank of sergeant-major.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Of an evening, + if we have a halt, Jack sometimes dances. The band of the + Punjaubees—between whom and the sailors there is a great + friendship, although of course they do not understand a word of + each other’s language—comes over to the sailors’ camp, and plays + dance-music; and half-a-dozen couples of sailors stand up and + execute quadrilles, waltzes, and polkas.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page357">[pg 357]</span><a name="Pg357" id="Pg357" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The scene is a + very amusing one. The Punjaubees do not stand, but sit in a circle, + and play away with the greatest gravity; very well they play too, + for they are beyond all comparison the best band out here. The + sailors dance without the least idea that there is anything comic + in the business; while round stand a crowd of amused soldiers and + of astonished natives of the country, to whom the whole performance + is a profound mystery.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Punjaub + Pioneers still maintain the high opinion they have earned by their + hard work. They are indeed a splendid regiment, and reflect the + greatest credit upon Major Chamberlain, their popular + commanding-officer. Major Chamberlain’s case is a particularly hard + one. He was promoted to the rank of major during the mutinies, and + was subsequently, for his great services, recommended no less than + three times for his colonelcy. The Indian Government, however, + refused, on account of his recent promotion. Eleven years have + since elapsed, and that objection must long ere this be done away + with; and yet Major Chamberlain is only Major Chamberlain still. It + is to be hoped that at the end of this campaign a tardy recognition + will be made of his services.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was Major + Chamberlain and his Punjaubees who found water at a short distance + from Zulla. He asserted, and very rightly, that as there was water + at Koomaylo, it must find its way down to the sea somehow, and so + he set his men to work to dig. Down he went steadily, amidst the + laughter and chaff of his friends in the Engineers. Still he + persevered, and at nearly sixty feet from the surface he struck + water. An abundant supply is now obtainable from this well, and by + this service alone he has amply earned his + promotion.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page358">[pg + 358]</span><a name="Pg358" id="Pg358" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The difficulties + of writing since we left Lât have been greater than ever, and the + manual operation of inditing an epistle is a most serious business. + Of course there is nothing resembling a chair or a table,—not even + a box. The only way to write is lying upon the ground, and putting + one’s paper upon one’s pillow. Now my pillow is not a comfortable + one for sleeping upon, much less for writing. It is composed of a + revolver, a box of cartridges, a telescope, a bag of dollars, a + packet of candles, a powder-flask, a bag of bullets, a comb, a pair + of stockings, and a flannel-shirt,—in fact, all my worldly + belongings. A most useful kit, no doubt, but uncomfortable as a + pillow, inconvenient as a writing-table. However, one gets + accustomed to anything; and if this campaign lasts another month or + two, we shall not improbably have learnt to dispense with much more + important articles than tables and chairs; for we have only the + clothes we stand in, and these are already giving unmistakable + signs of approaching dissolution.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc76" id="toc76"></a> <a name="pdf77" id="pdf77"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Dalanta, April 5th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We are now + getting to names which are somewhat familiar to us. The river + Djedda, which the troops crossed yesterday, and the plain of + Dalanta, where we are encamped to-day, were both mentioned + frequently in the letters from the captives. The river Djedda was + the place where Theodore was detained so long making a practicable + road for his guns, and where he was represented as encouraging his + men at their task by working with his own hands. Dalanta was the + province or tract which was spoken of as in rebellion against him + for a considerable time previously, but which submitted as soon as + he had crossed the Djedda.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page359">[pg 359]</span><a name="Pg359" id="Pg359" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">After I had sent + off my letter of the 3d, intelligence arrived that Theodore had + broken up his camp before Magdala, and was moving to attack us. I + need hardly say that the news was untrue. The Chief, however, was + bound to act upon it, and consequently we were ordered to march at + seven; and instead of halting, as previously intended, upon the + edge of the ravine of the Djedda, we were to cross and encamp on + the other side, so as to avoid the possibility of having to take + such a strong position. Colonel Milward, who had marched the + evening before with the Punjaubees, and two companies of the 4th, + was ordered to cross early, and General Staveley was to bring up + his force to the edge of the ravine. We started punctually at the + time ordered, and marched across a precisely similar country to + that we had traversed for the few previous days. Some miles before + we reached the edge of the Djedda the whole aspect was changed. The + yellow stubble and hay, which had before stretched away upon both + sides, was all burnt, and the ground was covered only with a black + ash. The flocks and herds which had dotted the country were gone, + and scarcely a human being was to be seen over the black expanse. + The snug homesteads and villages had disappeared, and in their + places were bare walls and heaps of stones. I rode up to one of + these. On the floor lay the half-charred thatch of the roof; among + it were portions of broken pots and baking effects. Here was a long + round stone, which was used as a rolling-pin to make the flat + bread; there was a large vessel of baked earth and cow-dung which + had once held flour or milk. A rat scuttled away as I looked in. + There was not a living soul in what had once been a large village. + This was indeed the desolation of war. Presently we saw rising, + apparently a few feet <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page360">[pg + 360]</span><a name="Pg360" id="Pg360" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>above the plain, at a distance of five or six + miles, a long perpendicular wall of rock. This, we knew, was the + upper edge of the opposite side of the Djedda. The ground then sank + a little in front of us, and, riding along the slight depression, + we suddenly turned a corner, and below us lay the wonderful gorge + of the Djedda. Its width from edge to edge was four or five miles, + its depth to the stream 3800 feet. It was a wonderful ravine. As + far as eye could see either way, the upper part upon sides appeared + like two perpendicular walls of perhaps a third of its total depth. + Then, on either side, was a plain or shoulder of from a mile to a + mile and a half in width, with a gradual slope towards the stream. + The lower portion was again extremely steep, but still with a + gradual descent, and not mere walls of rock like the upper edges. + It was easy to imagine the whole process of the formation of this + gorge. Originally it must have been an arm of the sea; a gulf of + five miles across, and with perpendicular cliffs upon either side, + and its depth the level of the broad shoulders. Then the land rose, + and a great river ran through the centre of what was now a noble + valley, gradually eating its way down until its bed attained its + present enormous depth. It was this ravine which had been the cause + of the immense detour we have had to make. Forty miles back, at + Santarai, we were said to be as close to Magdala as we were when we + stood prepared to descend into the Djedda. But the perpendicular + walls barred our progress, and we have marched along nearly + parallel to its course until we have reached the one spot where a + break in its iron walls allow of our descent. By this route + Theodore marched, and when we saw the road he had made for us, we + felt for the first time since our arrival really grateful to the + Abyssinian tyrant.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page361">[pg + 361]</span><a name="Pg361" id="Pg361" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is really a + wonderful road, almost as good as could have been made by our own + engineers; the only difference being that they would have thrown a + layer of earth over the loose stones to bind them together, and to + afford a firm and level surface. The road is really constructed + with great engineering skill. Blasting-tools have been freely used + wherever the rock required it. Every wind and turn, every shoulder + and slope, has been taken advantage of in order to make zigzags, + and render the descent more gradual. It is true that in places it + is fearfully steep—an incline of one and a quarter to one—which, to + convey the idea more popularly, is about the slope of the bank of a + railway-cutting. The leaving the road in its present state, with + loose stones, may have been done with an object, for upon a solid + road of this angle it would have been next to impossible to have + kept heavy cannon on wheels from running down, whereas upon a very + loose and heavy road the matter was comparatively easy. The length + of the descent is four miles and a half, that of the ascent three + miles and a half. Two miles and a half of the former, and a mile + and a half of the latter, are across and partially along the + shoulders, where the slope was very slight. In consequence, it may + be said that actually three thousand feet of depth were on either + side attained in two miles, which would give an average incline of + one in three. The road is from twenty to thirty feet in width; + generally it is made through basalt, which, in cooling, had + crystallised, so that its surface resembles a mosaic pavement, and + this readily breaks up. Parts, however, are cut through a hard + stone, and portions through a conglomerate, which must have tried + to the utmost the tools and patience of Theodore’s army. How he + achieved <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page362">[pg + 362]</span><a name="Pg362" id="Pg362" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>the task with the means at his disposal I am + at a loss to understand; and the road has certainly raised Theodore + very many degrees in the estimation of our men. Upon every level + space in the camping-ground of his army, there are their + fireplaces, and innumerable little bowers of five feet high and + little more in diameter, in which his troops curled themselves up + when their day’s work was over. It was a long and very weary + descent. Going down a steep place is comparatively easy when one + carries no load; but when one has over fifty pounds upon the back + it is extremely trying. At last we reached the bottom, a stony + waste of a quarter of a mile wide, with a few large trees growing + upon what in the rainy season are, no doubt, islands. The bed of + the stream is perfectly dry, except that here and there, at + intervals of a quarter of a mile or so, were pools of water, very + soft and unpleasant to the taste, and full of tadpoles. The troops + when they arrived here were a good deal done up, having already + marched thirteen miles, and it was hoped that the Chief would order + a halt for the night. He, however, considered it essential that the + plateau should be gained that evening, and Milward’s corps, whose + rearguard left the river as we descended to it, supported. The + troops were ordered to halt and rest until four o’clock, and to + have their dinners, and the mules were to be unloaded, fed, and + watered.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was three + o’clock before the baggage began to arrive in the valley, and it + was evident that it would not be all down until dark, and that much + of it could not reach the plateau above that night. Three of us, + therefore, resolved upon sleeping where we were, and upon going on + at daybreak. We accordingly pitched our tents under a tree, saw + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page363">[pg 363]</span><a name= + "Pg363" id="Pg363" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>our horses picketed + and fed, and dinner in course of preparation, and then went out for + a walk to explore the valley. The temperature was very many degrees + warmer than upon the plateau above, and the flora was more than + proportionately luxuriant. Here I find, among hundreds of other + plants of whose names and properties I am unfortunately ignorant, + the wild verbena and heliotrope, also the cucumber. Unfortunately + the cucumbers had only just begun to form, and were scarcely as + large as gherkins, or we might have had an unexpected addition to + our fare. I also found quantities of the rare palm-fern growing in + crevices of the rocks. It was altogether a splendid field for a + botanist, and I think it a great pity that a learned botanist did + not accompany the expedition instead of a geographer, who, although + a most distinguished savant, can but tell the world nearly the same + particulars of the narrow strip of country through which we are + travelling as must occur to any ordinary observer. Had this + gentleman merely taken advantage of the protection given by our + presence in the country to travel generally through it, he might + have no doubt added largely to our store of information; but + keeping to the line of route followed by the army, he can, with the + exception of ascertaining the precise heights over which we travel, + tell us really next to nothing. I believe, however, that this + staying with the army is in no degree the fault of the gentleman in + question, but of the military authorities, who here appear to have + the idea that a civilian is a sort of grown-up baby, who must be + kept strictly under their own eyes, or else that he will infallibly + get into mischief, and either come to harm himself, or else be the + cause of that dreadful and mysterious thing—complications. Had King + Kassa, at the time he visited us, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page364">[pg 364]</span><a name="Pg364" id="Pg364" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>been applied to by the Commander-in-chief, he + would, no doubt, have afforded every facility to the geographer and + archæologist to have wandered as they pleased among his dominions, + and the latter especially might have visited the interesting cities + of Adowa and Axum, and made discoveries of an important and + interesting nature, instead of wasting his time on the summit of + the bleak Abyssinian mountains.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We enjoyed our + little picnic amazingly. It was such a relief to get for once out + of the routine of camp, with its sentries, and its countersigns, + and bugle-calls, and mules, and to lie outside our tent and enjoy + the warm evening air, which we had not been able to do since we + left Zulla, where there was only sand to lie on. At eight o’clock, + however, the rain came on and drove us in, with the pleasant + knowledge that we had chosen well in stopping, for the last of the + baggage was not down the hill until past six; and although they at + once started upon their weary climb, it was impossible that they + could reach the camp before morning. Our camp was presently + increased in size by a dozen commissariat coolies, who were driving + several hundred sheep and some oxen, and who did not get to the + river until nearly eight o’clock. Jackals and hyænas were very + numerous, so we piled together a good fire to keep them off our + horses, and then lay down to sleep with our rifles and revolvers + within reach, for it was of course just possible, although not—as + some of the members of the staff to whom we had mentioned our + intention to stay considered likely—probable, that some of + Theodore’s cavalry might come along down the valley upon the + look-out for stragglers. We came up at daybreak next morning, and + after a cup of sugarless tea, started for camp. It was a very + severe climb, and at the shoulder we came up <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page365">[pg 365]</span><a name="Pg365" id="Pg365" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to many of the mules which had been + unable to get up the night before. The road which Theodore has cut + enables us to see very clearly the formation of the valley, and I + have not the least question that coal would be found there. I do + not mention this as a commercial, but as a scientific, fact; for, + commercially, coal here would be of no more value than stones. But + of the fact itself I have no question. The character of the + formation, the stone, the bands of fireclay, and of black friable + shale, are very distinct, and there is in my mind no doubt whatever + of the existence of coal. On the way we passed several dead mules + and horses, and there can be no question that the journey was a + most cruel one. This extreme fatigue may not cripple a man at the + time, he may be ready for duty the next morning; but it must tell, + and tell severely upon his constitution, and there are not a few + men here who will feel the effects of Mahkan, Dildee, and Dalanta, + to the end of their lives. The camp is situated upon a dead-level + about a mile from the top of the ascent. I find upon inquiry that + the troops in general got in at nine o’clock—of course wet + through—but that very many of them, and a great deal of baggage, + did not come in until this morning. There were rumours of an + attack, Rassam having sent in a letter warning the Chief to be + particularly on his guard against night attacks. The men, + therefore, went to sleep in their boots, with their rifles by their + sides. No attack took place. The same precaution is used to-night. + We find, as I expected, that very little is brought in by the + natives. The horses and mules to-day only get two pounds of grain + each. We are still upon half-rations of flour, which, by this + means, and with what is bought at Tacazze and upon the way will, I + hope, enable us to hold on until supplies arrive. Nothing + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page366">[pg 366]</span><a name= + "Pg366" id="Pg366" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>positive has yet been + heard of the native carriage. Sir Robert Napier has been out all + day making a long reconnoissance. From one point which he attained + the tents of Theodore’s army upon the plain in front of Magdala + were clearly visible. The party did not return until dark, and I + have heard no particulars. Theodore is known, however, to be still + there, and his efforts are directed to fortifying the hill which + defends Magdala. He has several guns in position on the summit, and + I apprehend that we shall have to capture it before we assault + Magdala. It is not known yet whether we advance to-morrow or not, + but it is believed that we shall start late, and make a short + march, and that Sir Charles Staveley, who is encamped to-night at + the bottom of the Djedda ravine, will come up to our present camp. + It is a tremendously wet night.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc78" id="toc78"></a> <a name="pdf79" id="pdf79"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Dalanta, April 7th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We have had many + surprises since we arrived in the country, but none greater, and + certainly none more satisfactory, than that which we have here + experienced. The letters from the captives had informed us that + Theodore had burnt everything upon the plain of Dalanta; and we had + in consequence imagined that we should be able to obtain nothing + whatever either for ourselves or animals, and that the prospect of + the latter especially was gloomy in the extreme, for we had not any + corn whatever remaining for them. Captain Speedy, however, rode out + to see the chief of Dalanta, with whom he had an acquaintance when + residing in the country. He returned in the afternoon with the + tidings that the chief had promised at least 100,000 lbs. of grain + in two <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page367">[pg + 367]</span><a name="Pg367" id="Pg367" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>days. It is evident that he is a man of his + word, for we have had a market to-day which has surpassed anything + we have seen in the country except at Antalo. There is a crowd of + people with grain, bread, fowls, &c. &c., and the four or + five commissariat Parsees cannot pay out the dollars for the + bucket-loads of grain half as fast as the natives bring them in. It + is indeed quite a scramble among these latter.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This unexpected + influx of grain, &c., may be said to be the turning-point which + secures the success of our expedition. Had we found no grain here + we must have lost all the transport-animals, as these have already + been on very short commons for some days. The supplies for the men + too were running extremely short, and if Magdala holds out for a + week our position would have been most unpleasant; now we are safe. + We have abundant grain for the animals for another week, and we are + told that supplies will continue to come in in any quantities. Very + large quantities of bread too have been purchased, and both + officers and men have laid in a stock of fowls, eggs, &c. All + anxiety is at an end. We have fairly overcome now all the + difficulties of the country, and of supplies. Theodore and his men + are, in comparison, contemptible foes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Staveley’s + brigade came up yesterday, and are encamped at a spot about two + miles beyond us. Now that supplies are coming in in abundance, and + a day is no longer of vital consequence, we shall, I believe, wait + for another day or two to allow the wing of the 45th, the second + wing of the Beloochees, and the 3d Dragoon Guards, to come up.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Yesterday almost + every officer in camp went to the edge of the ravine to have a look + at Magdala. It is a ride of a little over two miles, and the ravine + goes down in an almost <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page368">[pg + 368]</span><a name="Pg368" id="Pg368" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>unbroken precipice of 500 or 600 feet from the + upper edge. The view is one of the finest, if not the very finest, + we have had in Abyssinia. It is grand in the extreme. At our feet + was the perpendicular precipice, then a short shoulder, and then + another sharp fall down to the Bachelo, which is 3900 feet below + us. This side of the ravine is very similar, but steeper, to that + of the Djedda. Upon the other side, however, the character is + altogether different. In place of a corresponding ascent, as at the + Djedda, the ground rises in a succession of billows one behind + another, higher and higher, to the foot of some very lofty + mountains, which form the background forty miles away. Such an + extraordinary sea of hills I never saw. It was most magnificent, + and stretched away east and west as far as the eye could reach. + Above all this Magdala rose like a great ship out of the + surrounding billows. There was no mistaking it, with its + precipitous sides, its frowning aspect, and the cluster of tents + clearly discernible upon its summit. As the crow flies it was about + eight miles distant.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I will endeavour + to give as clear a description of it as possible, in order that our + future operations may be readily understood. From the bed of the + Bachelo the ground rises in a mass of rounded hills, with somewhat + flat tops; down through these, deep ravines convey the streams from + the distant hills into the Bachelo. One of these ravines comes down + nearly direct from Magdala, and it is up this that the road goes, + until it gets within about two miles of Magdala, when it leaves the + ravine and goes up on to the flat hill-tops from the midst of which + Magdala rises. Magdala, from here, appears like a three-topped + mountain with almost perpendicular sides. Two of the summits, which + together resemble <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page369">[pg + 369]</span><a name="Pg369" id="Pg369" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>a + saddle with high flat peaks, face this way. The hill to the right + is Fahla; that on the left, which is some hundred feet higher, is + Salamgi. The road winds up the face of Fahla to the saddle between + the two, and it is evident that Fahla will be the first position to + be attacked. There are apparently very few huts upon Fahla. The + road, we hear, after reaching the top of the saddle, turns to the + left, and crosses over Salamgi. Salamgi is tremendously strong; it + is a series of natural scarps, of great height; and upon the + terrace formed by these scarps a great portion of Theodore’s force + is encamped. Salamgi, if well defended, even by savages, will be a + most formidable position to assault. The third top of this singular + fortress is Magdala itself. This, like Fahla, has a flat top, which + is completely covered with large huts. We see only the top of + Magdala, over the saddle between Salamgi and Fahla. It is + apparently lower than Salamgi, but higher than Fahla. It is, we + hear, connected with Salamgi by a flat shoulder. It appears to be + about a mile distant from the summit of this mountain, and when, + therefore, we have taken Salamgi, our light guns will not be of + much utility in bombarding Magdala at so great a distance.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have now given + an idea of the scene in which the great drama, which will commence + to-morrow or next day, will be played. My next letter will, at any + rate, give you the opening scene, and possibly even the entire + drama.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc80" id="toc80"></a> <a name="pdf81" id="pdf81"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Before Magdala, April 11th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Although it was + evident when I last wrote to you that the last act of our long + drama was approaching, I certainly did not imagine that my next + letter would convey the tidings <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page370">[pg 370]</span><a name="Pg370" id="Pg370" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>that all was over—that the captives were free, + their prison captured, their oppressor punished, and general + triumph amidst a blaze of blue fire. But so it is; for although + Magdala has not yet fallen, it will undoubtedly do so before the + post closes, and a more gratifying termination to our expedition + than has eventuated could not have been desired by the most + sanguine. I had better continue my letter in a narrative form from + the date when I last wrote—for if I describe the final events first + it would deprive the rest of the matter of all interest.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I wrote last on + the evening of the 7th from Dalanta. The following day brought in + largely-increased supplies, and the market was completely thronged + with the country people. In the three days we were there we + purchased over 100,000 lbs. of grain, besides quantities of bread, + &c. &c., and nowhere, even at Antalo, did supplies flow in + with such rapidity as at this place, where we expected to find a + desert.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the afternoon + of the 8th the wing of the 45th marched into camp, having done the + distance from Scindee. The authorities had thoughtfully sent down + mules to the Djedda river to carry up their coats and blankets, and + the men consequently arrived comparatively fresh. The sailors of + the Naval Brigade turned out as they came into camp, and saluted + them with three hearty cheers. The 45th are a remarkably fine body + of men.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Thus reinforced + Sir Robert Napier determined to move forward and to encamp before + Magdala, even if he decided upon delaying the assault until the + other wing of the Beloochees and the 3d Dragoon Guards joined us. + The order was accordingly issued for a march the next day to the + edge <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page371">[pg 371]</span><a name= + "Pg371" id="Pg371" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of the Bachelo + ravine, to which the second brigade, which were now two miles ahead + of us, were also to proceed. We started at ten o’clock, and were + soon upon our camping-ground, which was only five miles distant. + Here the second brigade joined us, and together we formed a larger + camp than any we have had since our landing at Zulla. From the + front of the camp we had an excellent view of Magdala, which stood + up, with Salamgi and Fahla, a thousand feet above the surrounding + hills. We could now see that the ridge connecting Salamgi with + Fahla was longer than it had appeared from our previous point of + view, the distance from one end to the other of the saddle being + apparently over half a mile.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The first + brigade was ordered to advance at daybreak. The Commander-in-chief + and his head-quarters were to move with the second brigade at ten + o’clock, so as to allow the baggage of the first brigade to get + first to the bottom of the ravine. The first brigade were to march + to within two or three miles of Magdala. The second were to encamp + upon the river, and to march on early the next morning. There was + then not the slightest intention on the part of Sir Robert Napier + that any attack should take place, and indeed, as I have before + said, it was considered very probable that we should await the + arrival of the troops hurrying up from behind before any assault + was made upon Magdala. However, I determined to go on early, as it + was quite possible that something would take place, and I had + afterwards good reason to congratulate myself upon having so done, + as several others who had not started until ten o’clock lost the + exciting scene at the end of the day.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Sir Charles + Staveley was in command of the advance, <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page372">[pg 372]</span><a name="Pg372" id="Pg372" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>and Colonel Phayre, as quartermaster-general + of the army, went on in front with six companies of the Bombay and + Madras Sappers to prepare the road, should it be necessary.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At half-past + five the next morning (Good Friday) we were in motion, and at once + entered upon the steep descent to the Bachelo. It is a ravine of + about the same depth as the Djedda, namely, 3800 feet, and the + road, as made by Theodore, is a wonderfully good one. It is + shorter, but at the same time scarcely so precipitous as parts of + that down to the Djedda, and can hardly have presented quite so + many difficulties, that is, there were fewer places <a name= + "corr372" id="corr372" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span class= + "tei tei-corr">where</span> the basalt had to be cut through with + blasting-tools. Still, it was a fatiguing descent to the Bachelo, + and the sun, when it rose, came down with tremendous power. The men + had had but a scanty supply of water the night before, and hardly + any before starting; they therefore looked forward eagerly for the + welcome stream at the bottom. It turned out, however, a + disappointment, for although there was an abundance of water, the + river being eighty yards wide, and nearly waist-deep, the water was + of a consistency and colour which would have rendered it perfectly + undrinkable except to men suffering from great thirst. I do not + think I ever saw such muddy water in a stream. It was the colour of + coffee with milk in it, and perfectly opaque with mud. It looked + like nothing so much as the water in a dirty puddle in a London + street, just as it has been churned up by the wheels of a passing + omnibus. However, there was no help for it, and, dirty as it was, + everyone had a drink, and the soldiers filled their canteens, for + it was probable that no more water would be obtainable during the + day.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From the Bachelo + a broad ravine with a flat bottom ran <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page373">[pg 373]</span><a name="Pg373" id="Pg373" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>nearly straight to Salamgi, and along this + Theodore’s road was made. It was believed, however, that guns had + been laid to command this road, and it was not improbable that + Theodore might make a sudden attack. It was therefore determined + that the mountain guns, rocket trains, and baggage should proceed + by this road, preceded by the six hundred Sappers and Miners; and + that the infantry should at once climb the hills to its right, and + should march along them, so as to clear them of any possible enemy. + To cross the river the men had to wade, the first time that they + have had to do so since they landed. Some wisely took off their + trousers, others thinking vainly that the water would not reach + above their knees, merely rolled their trousers up, and, of course, + got thoroughly wet. Most of them took off shoes and stockings, but + many stopped in the middle and put their boots on again, for the + stones were so extremely sharp that wet shoes were preferable to + cut feet. At last the troops were across, and after a short halt + moved forward, the Sappers having gone on an hour previously with + Colonel Phayre. After proceeding up the valley we prepared to climb + the hill. On crossing it the 4th formed the advance, the men + loading before they started, as it was impossible that we could + tell when we might be attacked. Sir Charles Staveley, with General + Schneider, the able and popular officer commanding the first + brigade, with their staffs followed; and after them came the + 4th—the little party of Engineers under Major Pritchard, the + Beloochees, the Punjaubees, and two companies of the 10th Native + Infantry; also a squadron of the 3d Native Cavalry, the only + cavalry we had with us. We have had some stiff climbing since we + entered Abyssinia, but this altogether surpassed any of our + previous experience. In fact, when we got <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page374">[pg 374]</span><a name="Pg374" id="Pg374" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>near the summit of the first range, we came to + a spot which was almost impassable even for infantry, and quite so + for the horses of the staff. Two or three officers endeavoured to + drag their horses up, but the animals, although pretty well + accustomed by this time to stiff places, were quite unable to get + up, and one or two tumbled backwards and were nearly killed. The + infantry therefore clambered up to the top; but we had to wait + where we were for half-an-hour, until the Punjaub Pioneers cleared + a sort of track up which we were able to scramble. When on the + first level we had a halt for half-an-hour, for the troops were all + very much exhausted by their climb, under one of the hottest suns I + ever felt. They were now, too, beginning to suffer much from + thirst, and the muddy water in the skins was drunk most eagerly. It + tasted muddy, but was not otherwise bad; but we had to shut our + eyes to drink it. While we were waiting here a messenger arrived + from Colonel Phayre, saying that he held the head of the valley + with the Sappers and Miners, and that the road was quite + practicable. Sir Charles Staveley at once sent off an aide-de-camp + to Sir Robert Napier, saying that the baggage and guns, which were + waiting at the river for the receipt of this intelligence, might + move forward in safety. We then marched four miles farther up a + succession of rises to the place where it was hoped from the native + accounts that we should find water; but there was only one small + pool of very dirty water, with which, however, three or four skins + were filled. The disappointment of the men, who were now suffering + severely, was very great, but there was no help for it. Here, + however, we met with a surprise, which to the commanding-officers + quite dispelled any thought of thirst or discomfort; for here, to + the astonishment and dismay of Sir <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page375">[pg 375]</span><a name="Pg375" id="Pg375" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Charles Staveley, he found Colonel Phayre and + the 800 Sappers and Miners, who were supposed to be holding the + head of the valley below us. This was now, we knew, crowded with + our artillery, ammunition-baggage and supplies. This valley, as I + before stated, ran straight to Magdala, and of course was visible + for its whole length to the garrison of that fortress.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The whole of the + baggage was therefore open to an attack from Magdala, and we upon + the hill-top were powerless to give them the slightest assistance. + Had Theodore made an attack at this period, it is not too much to + say that the whole of our guns, ammunition, and stores must have + fallen into his hands, for their whole guard was only eighty or a + hundred men of the 4th scattered over a long line. What Colonel + Phayre meant, or how he accounted for this extraordinary conduct, I + know not; but a more stupendous blunder never was made, and had we + had the most contemptible European force to deal with instead of + savages, we must have sustained a crushing disaster.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">General Staveley + at once sent off an officer to acquaint Sir Robert Napier with the + state of affairs, and then ordered the troops to advance at + once.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Another couple + of miles brought us to our camping-ground, which lay a little + behind the crest of a hill, and was not visible from Magdala. Here + the tired troops threw themselves down, while the General advanced + with his staff to the edge of the rising ground. As the scene + before it was destined, although we were at the time ignorant of + it, to become our battle-field, I will endeavour to give as + accurate a description of it as possible, in order that the fight + may be better understood.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page376">[pg 376]</span><a name="Pg376" id="Pg376" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We stood on the + edge of a sort of plateau. At our feet was a small ravine or + valley, dividing us from another plateau, which extended to the + foot of Fahla and Salamgi. This plateau was a hundred feet or so + below the spot upon which we stood, and would have been completely + commanded by our guns. This plateau was bounded both to the right + and left by ravines, the one to the left being the head of the + valley in which was our baggage. The little valley which divided us + from the plateau widened out to the left, the spot where it fell + into the main valley being half a mile distant; and here we could + see the spot where our baggage would arrive when it had climbed up + from the valley beneath.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Sir Charles + Staveley at once despatched the Punjaub Pioneers to this point; + that done, there was nothing for it but to wait the event; and this + waiting was painful in the extreme.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was now + half-past three. Everyone was devoured with a burning thirst, which + the scanty draught of mud seemed to excite rather than allay. Any + money would have been cheerfully given for a drink of pure water. A + storm was seen coming up, but it unfortunately did not pass over + us; we got, however, the tail of the shower, and by spreading out + my waterproof-sheet, I caught nearly half a pint, which I shall + long remember as one of the most refreshing draughts I ever + tasted.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the mean time + Sir Robert Napier had arrived with his staff, and it was evident, + by the anxious care with which he reconnoitred the hill before us, + and the head of the valley, that he considered our position to be a + critical one. We could see with our glasses half-a-dozen guns in + line on the flat top of Fahla, and as many more upon Salamgi, and + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page377">[pg 377]</span><a name= + "Pg377" id="Pg377" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>presently we saw two + artillerymen go from gun to gun, and load them in succession. Still + all was quiet; but it was a time of most anxious suspense, for we + knew that from the fortress they could see our long line of animals + winding up the valley, and that the head of the train must be fast + approaching. Presently the Naval Rocket Brigade, which was in front + of the baggage, emerged upon the flat below us and joined the + Punjaubees; and almost at the same moment a dozen voices + proclaimed, <span class="tei tei-q">“A large force is coming down + the road on the brow of the fortress.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Every glass was + turned there, and a large body of horse and foot-men were seen + hurrying down pell-mell, and without any order or regularity. At + first there was a divided opinion as to whether this was a peaceful + embassy or an attack; but all doubt was put an end to in another + minute by the booming of a gun from Fahla, and by a thirty-two + pound shot striking the ground at a few yards from the body of + Punjaubees. It was war, then, and a general burst of cheering broke + from the officers who were clustered round the General. Theodore + actually meant to fight, and not only that, but to fight in the + open.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Still our + position was a most serious one. The second brigade was miles + behind, the baggage undefended except by the Punjaubees, and it was + easy enough for the enemy to make a circuit down the ravine and to + avoid them. Sir Robert Napier instantly despatched an aide-de-camp + to Major Chamberlain, commanding the Pioneers, to order him to take + up a position on elevated ground to his left, where he could the + better protect the baggage, and to order the Naval Brigade to hurry + up the valley to the commanding spur upon which we were standing. + Aide-de-camp after <a name="corr377" id="corr377" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">aide-<span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page378">[pg 378]</span><a name="Pg378" id="Pg378" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>de-camp</span> was sent back to bring up + the infantry. It was a most exciting five minutes. The enemy were + coming down with very great rapidity. They had already descended + the road from the fortress, and were scattered over the plain; the + principal body moving towards the valley in which was our baggage, + the rest advancing in scattered groups, while the guns upon Fahla + kept up a steady fire upon the Punjaubees. A prettier sight is + seldom presented in warfare than that of the advance of the enemy. + Some were in groups, some in twos and threes. Here and there + galloped chiefs in their scarlet-cloth robes. Many of the foot-men, + too, were in scarlet or silk. They kept at a run, and the whole + advanced across the plain with incredible and alarming rapidity, + for it was for some time doubtful whether they would not reach the + brow of the little valley,—along which the Rocket Train was still + coming in a long single file,—before the infantry could arrive to + check them; and in that case there can be no doubt that the sailors + would have suffered severely. The road, or rather path from the + valley, up to the spur upon which we stood, was steep and very + difficult, and considerable delay occurred in getting the animals + up. After a few minutes, which seemed ages, the infantry came up at + the double; all their fatigue and thirst vanished as if by magic at + the thought of a fight. The 4th, who were only about 300 strong—the + remainder being with the baggage—were ordered to go on in + skirmishing order; they were followed by the little party of + Engineers, then came the Beloochees, and after them the two + companies of the 10th N.I. and the Sappers and Miners. Just as the + head of the infantry went down into the valley, the leading mules + reached the top of the crest by our side, and in <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page379">[pg 379]</span><a name="Pg379" id="Pg379" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>less than a minute the first rocket + whizzed out on the plain.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was our first + answer to the fire which the guns of the fortress had kept up, and + was greeted with a general cheer. As rocket after rocket rushed out + in rapid succession, the natives paused for a minute, astonished at + these novel missiles, and then, their chiefs urging them forward, + they again advanced. They were now not more than five hundred yards + from ourselves, a hundred from the edge of the little ravine up the + side of which the skirmishers of the 4th were rapidly climbing. + With my glass I could distinguish every feature, and as we looked + at them coming forward at a run, with their bright-coloured + floating robes, their animated gestures, their shields and spears, + one could not help feeling pity for them, ruffians and cut-throats + as most of them undoubtedly were, to think what a terrible + reception they were about to meet with. In another minute the line + of skirmishers had breasted the slope, and opened a tremendous fire + with their Sniders upon the enemy. The latter, taken completely by + surprise, paused, discharged their firearms, and then retreated, + slowly and doggedly, but increasing in speed as they felt how + hopeless was the struggle against antagonists who could pour in ten + shots to their one. Indeed, at this point they were outnumbered + even by the 4th alone, for they were in no regular order, but in + groups and knots scattered over the whole plain. The 4th advanced + rapidly, driving their antagonists before them, and followed by the + native regiments. So fast was the advance that numbers of the enemy + could not regain the road to the fortress, but were driven away to + the right, off the plateau, on to the side of a ravine, from which + the rockets again drove them, still further <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page380">[pg 380]</span><a name="Pg380" id="Pg380" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to the right, and away from Magdala. The + 4th and other regiments formed up at a few hundred yards from the + foot of the ascent to the fortress, and for half-an-hour maintained + an animated fire against the riflemen who lined the path, and kept + up a brisk return from small rifle-pits and the shelter of stones + and rocks. All this time the guns upon Fahla and some of those upon + Salamgi, kept up a constant fire upon an advancing line; but the + aim was very bad, and most of the shot went over our heads. Much + more alarming were our own rockets, some of which came in very + unpleasant proximity to us. Presently, to our great relief, the + sailors joined us, and soon drove the enemy’s riflemen up the hill, + after which they threw a few salvos of rockets with admirable aim + up at the guns a thousand feet above us, doing, as it afterwards + turned out, considerable damage, and nearly killing Theodore + himself, who was superintending the working of the gun by his + German prisoners. In the mean time a much more serious contest was + taking place upon our left. The main body of the enemy had taken + this direction to attack the baggage, and advanced directly towards + the Punjaub Pioneers, who were defending the head of the road. + Fortunately Colonel Penn’s mountain train of steel guns, which were + following the naval train, now arrived at the top of the road, + instantly unloaded, and took their places by the side of the + Punjaubees. When the enemy were within three hundred yards the + steel guns opened with shell, the Punjaubees poured in their fire + and speedily stopped the advance of the head of the column. The + greater part of the natives then went down the ravine to the left, + along which they proceeded to the attack of the baggage, in the + main valley of which this ravine was a branch. The baggage-guard, + composed of a detach<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page381">[pg + 381]</span><a name="Pg381" id="Pg381" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>ment of the 4th, scattered along the long + line, had already been warned by the guns of the fortress that an + attack was impending, and Captain Aberdie, of the transport train, + gallopping down, brought them word of the advancing body of the + enemy. The various officers upon duty instantly collected their + men. Captain Roberts was in command, and was well seconded by + Lieutenants Irving, Sweeny, and Durrant of the 4th, and by the + officers of the transport train.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">As the enemy + poured down the ravine they were received by a withering fire from + the deadly Snider. A portion of the Punjaubees came down the ravine + and took them in flank, and some of the guns of Penn’s battery, + getting upon a projecting spur, scattered death everywhere amongst + them. From the extreme rapidity of the fire of the Snider, the + firing at this time in different parts of the field was as heavy + and continuous as that of a general action between two large + armies. The Punjaubees behaved with great gallantry and charged + with the bayonet, doing great execution. The natives, who had + fought with great pluck, now attempted to escape up the opposite + side of the ravine, but great numbers were shot down as they did + so, their white dresses offering a plain mark to our riflemen; at + last, however, the remnant gained the opposite bank, and fled + across the country to our left, their retreat to Magdala being cut + off. The action, from the first to the last gun, lasted an hour and + a half. It was, as far as our part of the fray was concerned, a + mere skirmish. We had not a single man killed, and only about + thirty wounded, most of them slightly. Captain Roberts, however, + was hit in the elbow-joint with a ball, and will, it is feared, + lose his arm. On the other hand, to the enemy this is a decisive + and crushing defeat. Upwards of five thousand <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page382">[pg 382]</span><a name="Pg382" id="Pg382" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of Theodore’s bravest soldiers sallied + out; scarcely as many hundreds returned. Three hundred and eighty + bodies were counted the next morning, and many were believed to + have been carried off in the night. Very many fell on the slope of + the hill, and away in the ravines to our right and left, where our + burying-parties could not find them. Certainly five hundred were + killed, probably twice as many were wounded, and of these numbers + have only crawled away to die. It was a terrible slaughter, and + could hardly be called a fight, between disciplined bodies of men + splendidly armed, and scattered parties of savages scarcely armed + at all. Much as the troops wish for an opportunity of + distinguishing themselves, I have heard a general hope expressed + that we shall not have to storm the place, for there is but little + credit to be gained over these savages, and the butchery would be + very great. The natives are, however, undoubtedly brave, and + behaved really very gallantly. Not a single shield, gun, or spear + has been picked up except by the side of the dead. The living, even + the wounded, retreated; they did not fly. There was no <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">sauve qui + peut</span></span>, no throwing away of arms, as there would have + been under similar desperate circumstances by European troops. As + the troops returned to the rear we passed many sad spectacles. In + one hollow a dozen bodies lay in various positions. Some had died + instantaneously, shot through the head; others had fallen mortally + wounded, and several of these had drawn their robes over their + faces, and died like Stoics. Some were only severely wounded, and + these had endeavoured to crawl into bushes, and there lay uttering + low moans. Their gaudy silk bodices, the white robes with scarlet + ends which had flaunted so gaily but two hours since, now lay + dabbled with blood, and dank with the <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page383">[pg 383]</span><a name="Pg383" id="Pg383" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>heavy rains which had been pitilessly coming + down for the last hour.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have omitted + to mention that a tremendous thunderstorm had come on while the + engagement was at its height, and the deep roar of the thunder had + for a time completely drowned the heavy rattle of musketry, the + crack of the steel guns, and the boom of the heavy cannon upon + Fahla. Once, when the storm was at its height, the sun had shone + brightly out through a rift of the thunder-clouds, and a + magnificent rainbow shone over the field upon which the combatants + were still fiercely contending. Only twice was the voice of man + heard loudly during the fight. The first was a great cheer from the + natives upon the hill, and which we could only conjecture was + occasioned by the return unharmed of some favourite chief. The + other was the cheer which the whole British force gave as the enemy + finally retired up into their strongholds. Thus terminated, soon + after six o’clock, one of the most decided and bloody skirmishes + which, perhaps, ever occurred. It will be, moreover, memorable as + being the first encounter in which British troops ever used + breech-loading rifles. Tremendous as was the fire, and great as was + the slaughter, I am of opinion, and in this many of the military + men agree with me, that the number of the enemy killed would have + been at least as great had the troops been armed with the Enfield. + The fire was a great deal too rapid. Men loaded and fired as if + they were making a trial of rapidity of fire, and I saw several + instances in which only two or three natives fell among a group, + the whole of which would have been mown down had the men taken any + aim whatever. At the end of an hour there was scarcely a cartridge + left of the ninety rounds which each man carried into action, and + the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page384">[pg 384]</span><a name= + "Pg384" id="Pg384" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>greater portion of + them were fired away in the first quarter of an hour. The + baggage-guard used up all their stock, and were supplied with fresh + ammunition from the reserve which they guarded. Against close + bodies of men the breech-loader will do wonders. In the gorges, + where the natives were clustered thickly together, it literally + mowed them down. Upon the open not one shot in a hundred told. In a + great battle the ammunition, at this rate of expenditure, would be + finished in an hour. From what I saw of the fighting, I am + convinced that troops should, if possible, load at the muzzle when + acting as skirmishers, and at the breech only when in close + conflict against large bodies of cavalry or infantry. It is all + very well to order men to fire slowly, a soldier’s natural + eagerness when he sees his enemy opposite to him will impel him to + load and fire as quickly as possible. He cannot help it, nor can he + carry more than sixty rounds of ammunition, which will not last him + twenty minutes. It certainly appears to me that a soldier’s rifle + should combine breech- and muzzle-loading, and that he should only + use the former method when specially ordered by his commanding + officer.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The troops + retired amidst a heavy rain, and were marched back to the camp they + had left to fetch their greatcoats and blankets, which had been + left behind when they advanced to the fight. Then they returned to + the ground held by the Punjaubees, and took their station for the + night, as they here guarded the top of the road, at which the + baggage was now arriving, it having been kept back during the + fight. It was perfectly dark before we reached our camping-ground, + and as this was in many places covered with thorns and bushes, + which in the darkness were quite invisible, very considerable + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page385">[pg 385]</span><a name= + "Pg385" id="Pg385" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>confusion prevailed. + Now that the excitement was over, everyone was again tormented with + thirst, but it was felt less than it would otherwise have been, + owing to the thorough soaking which every man had got. Of course + there was no getting at the baggage, which remained on a flat + behind us, and everyone wrapped himself in his wet blanket and lay + down to snatch a little sleep if he could, and to forget hunger and + thirst for a while. As we had marched before daybreak, and went + into action long before any of the baggage-animals came up, no one + had taken food for the whole of the long and fatiguing day. Very + strong bodies of troops were thrown out as pickets, and the whole + were got up and under arms at two in the morning, lest Theodore + should renew his attack before daybreak. There was now news that + there was water to be had in a ravine to our left, and the + bheesties were sent down with the water-skins, and numbers of the + soldiers also went down with their canteens. The water was worse + than any I ever drank before, and ever think to drink again. + Numbers of animals, mules or cattle, had been slaughtered there; it + appeared, in fact, to have been a camp of Theodore’s army. The + stench was abominable, and the water was nearly as much tainted as + the atmosphere. The liquid mud we had drank the day before was, in + comparison, a healthy and agreeable fluid. However, there was no + help for it, and few, if any, refused the noxious fluid. This + climate must certainly be an extraordinarily healthy one; for, in + spite of hardship and privation, of wet, exposure, bad water, and + want of stimulants, the health of the troops has been + unexceptionally good. Only once, at Gazoo, have we had threatenings + of dysentery, and this passed away as soon as we moved forward. I + question if we had a single man in hospital upon <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page386">[pg 386]</span><a name="Pg386" id="Pg386" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the day of the fight, which is certainly + most providential, considering the extreme paucity of medical + comforts, and the very few dhoolies available for the sick and + wounded. Before daybreak we again started—as the place upon which + we were encamped was within range of the enemy’s guns—and marched + back to this, the camping-ground of the preceding afternoon.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The 2d brigade + arrived soon after daylight, and took up their camp a little in the + rear of the position in which we had passed the night. Our baggage + came on with us, and we had now the satisfaction of being in our + tents again, and of getting what we greatly needed—food. After + breakfast I rode over to the camp of the 2d brigade, and then, + leaving my horse, went down into the ravine, where fatigue-parties + were engaged in the work of burial. The scene was very shocking. In + one or two narrow gorges in which they had been pent up, fifty or + sixty dead bodies lay almost piled together. Very ghastly were + their wounds. Here was a man nearly blown to pieces with a shell; + near him another the upper part of whose head had been taken off by + a rocket; then again, one who lay as if in a peaceful sleep, shot + through the heart; next to him one less fortunate, who, by the + nature of his wound, must have lingered in agony for hours through + the long night before death brought a welcome relief. Two of them + only still lived, and these were carried into camp; but their + wounds were of so desperate a nature that it was probable they + could not live many hours. Strangely enough, there were no wounds + of a trifling nature. All who had not been mortally wounded had + either managed to crawl away, or had been removed by their friends. + With a very few exceptions it was a charnel-place of dead, whose + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page387">[pg 387]</span><a name= + "Pg387" id="Pg387" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>gaudy silk and + coloured robes were in ghastly contrast with their stiffened and + contorted attitudes. Among the few survivors was the + Commander-in-chief of Theodore’s army, who was carried to the camp. + He, like the others we were able to succour, expressed his + gratitude for our kindness, and said the affair had been a complete + surprise to them. They saw what was apparently a train of baggage + without any protection whatever coming up the valley; and they had + not noticed our small body of infantry on the brow. They sallied + out therefore, anticipating little or no resistance. It certainly + speaks well for the courage of the natives, that, taken by + surprise, as they must have been, by our infantry, with the rockets + and shells, they should yet have fought as bravely and well as they + did. There can be no doubt that, had not the fight been brought on + so suddenly as it was, and had the 2d brigade been at hand, we + should have gone straight up upon the heels of the fugitives, and + captured the place then and there. As it was, although it might + have been done, the troops were too tired and exhausted to have put + them at such an arduous task; for Theodore would, no doubt, have + fought with desperation, and we should have lost many men before we + could have surmounted the hill. I say this, because it is the + opinion of many that we might have taken the place at once, had we + chosen to go on.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Altogether it + was a wonderful success, especially considering that we fought + under the disadvantage of a surprise, and without the slightest + previous plan or preparation. It is only fortunate that we had to + deal with Theodore and Abyssinians, and not with regular + troops.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Theodore was + general enough to perceive and to take advantage of Colonel + Phayre’s egregious blunder; but his <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page388">[pg 388]</span><a name="Pg388" id="Pg388" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>troops were not good enough to carry out his + intentions. As to Colonel Phayre, it is not probable that we shall + hear any more of him while the expedition lasts; for Sir Robert + Napier’s long-suffering patience for once broke down, and he opened + his mind to Colonel Phayre in a way which that officer will not + forget for the rest of his life.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Before I left + camp for my ride to the ravine, an event of great interest + occurred, but which I deferred mentioning in its place, as I wished + to complete my description of the battle and field without a break. + At half-past seven, just as I was at breakfast, I heard a great + cheering and hurrahing, and found that Lieutenant Prideaux and Mr. + Flad had come in with proposals from Theodore. This was a great + relief to us all, as there was considerable fear that Theodore, in + a fit of rage at his defeat the day before, might have put all the + captives to death. This, however, was not the case. The prisoners + had indeed passed an unenviable afternoon while the battle was + going on; but Prideaux and Blanc consoled each other, as they heard + the heavy firing of our rifles, that at least, if they were to die + that night, they were to some extent avenged beforehand. These two + gentlemen have throughout written in a spirit of pluck and + resignation which does them every honour.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Theodore had + come in after the engagement in a rather philosophical mood, and + said, <span class="tei tei-q">“My people have been out to fight + yours. I thought that I was a great man, and knew how to fight. I + find I know nothing. My best soldiers have been killed; the rest + are scattered. I will give in. Go you into camp and make terms for + me.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">And so the two + captives came into camp. Both looked well and hearty, and + acknowledged that, as far as eating and <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page389">[pg 389]</span><a name="Pg389" id="Pg389" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>drinking go, they have been far better off + than we are ourselves. Indeed, with the exception of captivity and + light chains, the captives do not appear to have been ill-treated + for many months. They have their separate houses, their servants, + and anything they could buy with the supplies of money sent to + them.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A horrible + business took place in Magdala on the very day before our arrival. + Theodore had all the European captives out, and before their eyes + put to death three hundred and forty prisoners, many of whom he had + kept in chains for years. Among them were men, women, and little + children. They were brought out chained, and thrown down on the + ground, their heads fastened down to their feet. Among this + defenceless and pitiable group the brutal tyrant went with his + sword and slashed right and left until he had killed a score or so. + Then, getting tired, he called out six of his musketeers, who + continued to fire among the wretched crowd until all were + despatched. Their bodies were then thrown over a precipice.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There is a + general feeling of surprise expressed in camp that the Englishmen + who were witnesses of this horrible spectacle, and who were + themselves unfettered, did not make a rush upon the monster and cut + him down then and there. They could hardly have increased their own + danger, for they tell us that they expected that they themselves + would be put to death after the murder of the native prisoners. + Besides, in the presence of so dreadful a butchery as this must + have been, a man does not calculate—he feels; and the impulse to + rush with a scream upon the drunken tyrant and to kill him would, + one would think, have been overpowering.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page390">[pg 390]</span><a name="Pg390" id="Pg390" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The captives + describe the usual mode of execution, by cutting-off the hands and + feet, as being a refinement of cruelty. A slight gash is made round + the member, and it is then wrenched-off by main force, the arteries + being so much twisted that very little loss of blood takes place. + The wretched beings are then left to die; and some of them linger + for many days, and then expire of thirst more than of their wounds, + it being death to administer either food or water to them.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We can feel no + pity for this inhuman monster; and should he resist, there is every + hope that he will be killed in the fight. Sir Robert Napier + declined to grant any conditions whatever, demanding an instant + surrender of the whole of the prisoners and of the fortress, + promising only that Theodore and his family should be honourably + treated. With this answer the two captives returned, but came back + again at three o’clock with a message from Theodore, begging that + better terms might be offered him. Sir Robert Napier was most + reluctantly obliged to refuse, and the captives again returned + amidst the sorrowful anticipations of the camp. At half-past six, + to the great joy of all, Mr. Flad came in with the news that the + captives would all be in in an hour; and at seven the whole of them + came in safe and sound, with the exception of Mrs. Flad and her + children. She, being unable to walk, had been left behind by the + carelessness or haste of Rassam, to whom the business had been + intrusted by Theodore. This person, Rassam, is very unpopular among + the rest of the prisoners; the only person who seems to have liked + him being Theodore himself, to whom his demeanour, so different + from that of Prideaux and Blanc, had to a certain extent + ingratiated him. I trust that to-<span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page391">[pg 391]</span><a name="Pg391" id="Pg391" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>morrow will see Mrs. Flad and her children + safe in the camp, and then one of the objects of our expedition + will have been completely and satisfactorily attained. Theodore has + until mid-day to surrender Magdala; and if he does not do so, we + shall storm it to-morrow night or next day. Some more + scaling-ladders are in process of preparation, the materials being + the long bamboo dhoolie-poles for the sides, and the handles of + pickaxes for the rungs. The ladders are about five feet wide and + twenty long.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I close this + letter now; but anticipate that my next, describing the fall of + Magdala, will be in time for the same post by which this reaches + England.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc82" id="toc82"></a> <a name="pdf83" id="pdf83"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + April 12th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Contrary to + expectation, the day has passed-off without event. One reason for + this was, that Mrs. Flad and her children were still in Theodore’s + hands, as also were some of the European workmen. At two o’clock, + however, they came in; and we have now the whole of the captives + safe in our hands. We have quite a native camp within our own, + indeed, so large is the number of their attendants and following. + The principal English prisoners have done very well with the money + constantly supplied to them; but many of the German workmen have a + miserably pinched and starved appearance. There are several + half-castes among the party that have come in; their fathers being + English or other Europeans who have resided in Abyssinia, their + mothers natives. The natives who have come in have an idea that + wearing a piece of red cloth round the head is a sign of + friendliness to us, and they <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page392">[pg 392]</span><a name="Pg392" id="Pg392" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>therefore are generally so adorned. The + released captives start to-morrow for England. Theodore this + morning sent down a thousand cattle and five hundred sheep as a + propitiatory offering; but Sir Robert Napier refused to receive + them, and has sent-in a renewed demand for the surrender of the + fortress. It has been all day thought that the assault would take + place to-night, or rather at daybreak to-morrow. No orders have, + however, yet been issued, and it is now believed that the attack + will take place to-morrow, in which case it is doubtful whether any + description of the affair will reach you, as I had hoped, by this + mail.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc84" id="toc84"></a> <a name="pdf85" id="pdf85"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + <span class="tei tei-date" style="text-align: right">Ten o’clock + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span></span> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have just + received certain information that the attack is postponed. Sir + Robert Napier, one of the kindest-hearted of men, has sent-off a + letter this evening to Theodore, urging him to surrender, with a + promise that his life shall be spared, and the lives of all his + men. He has pointed out to him that his men cannot possibly resist + our superior weapons; that cannon greatly superior to those we used + in the fight of Good Friday have now arrived, and also the rest of + our forces; so that our success is certain. He has therefore + implored him to surrender, and to save any further effusion of + blood, if not for his own sake, at any rate for that of the women + and children, of whom alone it is said that there are 7000 in the + fortress. I most earnestly trust that Theodore will consent to the + appeal. Of course, the effusion of blood is to him, who only three + days ago murdered 350 men, a matter of small moment. Still his own + courage is failing. He yesterday, when he heard of the terms + demanded, pretended to attempt to commit suicide, and fired a + revolver close to his head; but <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page393">[pg 393]</span><a name="Pg393" id="Pg393" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>the ball only grazed his neck. This, however, + shows that his courage is failing: a brave man will never commit + suicide; still less will he, if driven by desperation to the act, + inflict only a slight wound upon himself. It is evident that he is + now afraid; and I trust that to save his own miserable life he will + surrender, and so save the butchery that must ensue if we storm + Magdala.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">To-day being + Easter Sunday, we had, as usual, a church-parade, and our chaplain + read the thanksgiving for our success, in which I am sure all will + heartily join.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc86" id="toc86"></a> <a name="pdf87" id="pdf87"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Before Magdala, April 14th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When I closed my + letter of the 12th, I mentioned that Sir Robert Napier had written + to Theodore, urging him most strongly to surrender, as he had no + possibility of a successful resistance; and the destruction of + life, if we were to open fire upon Magdala, would be terrible.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the next + morning several of the principal chiefs came into camp, and said + that they could not fight against our troops, and would therefore + surrender. They held, with their people, Fahla and Salamgi, and + would hand-over these fortresses to us, on condition that + themselves and their families were allowed to depart with their + property unharmed. With them came Samuel, a man who has been + frequently mentioned in connection with the prisoners, both in + their own letters and in Dr. Beke’s work. This man exercised a + strongly prejudicial influence at the early period of their + captivity, but has since shown them kindness. Having been one of + Theodore’s principal advisers, one could hardly have <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page394">[pg 394]</span><a name="Pg394" id="Pg394" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>expected to see him deserting his master + in his adversity. Samuel is a strongly-built man, with remarkably + intelligent features, and rather grizzly iron-gray hair, which he + wears in its natural state, and not plaited and grease-bedaubed in + the Abyssinian fashion. Sir Robert Napier accepted the surrender, + and gave permission for the departure of their families and + effects. Captain Speedy was ordered to return with them, with fifty + of the 3d Native Cavalry, under Colonel Locke. Orders had been + previously given for the whole of the troops to parade on the flat + in front of the fortress. In half an hour after the departure of + the cavalry, the troops were formed up, and made an imposing show, + the first we have had since we landed. Hitherto the brigades have + been separated, and so large a portion of them have been scattered + along the line of baggage, that we have never had an opportunity of + seeing our real force. We could now see that it was a very + formidable body. The 33d were drawn up 750 strong; the 4th, 450; + the 45th, 400. We had now the whole of the Beloochees, their left + wing having arrived during the night, and the whole of the + Punjaubees. We had two companies of the 10th Native Infantry, and + six companies of Sappers and Miners—altogether a very complete body + of infantry. We had Murray’s Armstrong battery, two seven-inch + mortars, Penn’s Mountain Train of steel guns, Twiss’s Mountain + Train, and the Naval Rocket Brigade—a very respectable corps of + artillery. In cavalry alone we were wanting, having only the fifty + troopers of the 3d Native Cavalry, who had come as the + Commander-in-chief’s escort, and who had now just reached the top + of the crest of Fahla. The rest of the cavalry—namely, the 3d + Dragoons, 3d and 12th Native Cavalry and Scinde Horse—had been sent + round <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page395">[pg 395]</span><a name= + "Pg395" id="Pg395" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>into the valley to + cut off Theodore’s retreat. General Staveley was, of course, in + command of the division. We moved forward, headed by the 33d, to + whom, as having—of the European regiments—borne the brunt of the + advance work throughout, was now assigned the honour of first + entering and of placing the British flag upon Magdala. They were + followed by the 45th, Murray’s and Twiss’s battery, and the rest of + the second brigade, which had not had an opportunity of taking part + in the action on Good Friday. Then came the 4th and the rest of the + 1st brigade, with the exception of the troops who were left behind + to take care of the camp. Major Baigrie, as quartermaster-general + of the 1st division, rode in advance.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">As the long line + wound up the steep ascent in Fahla the effect was very pretty, and + elicited several remarks that this was our Easter-Monday review. On + the way up we met a large number of men, women, and children upon + their way down. Once upon the shoulder which connects Fahla and + Salamgi, we found ourselves in the midst of a surprising scene. A + perfect exodus was in progress. Many thousands of men, women, and + children were crowded everywhere, mixed up with oxen, sheep, and + donkeys. The women, children, and donkeys were laden with the + scanty possessions of the inhabitants. Skins of grain and flour, + gourds and jars of water and ghee, blankets for coverings and + tents—these were their sole belongings. It was a Babel of noises. + The women screamed their long, quavering cry of admiration and + welcome; men shouted to each other from rock to rock; mothers who + had lost their children screamed for them, and the children wailed + back in return; sheep and goats bleated, and donkeys and mules + brayed. It was an astonishing scene. <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page396">[pg 396]</span><a name="Pg396" id="Pg396" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>All seemed extremely glad to see us, and to be + relieved from the state of fear and starvation in which they had + existed; men, women, and children bent until their foreheads + touched the ground in token of submission. The men who bore no arms + carried burdens, as did the women; but the warriors only carried + their arms. The number of gaudy dresses among the latter was + surprising, and their effect was very gay and picturesque. Shirts + of red, blue, or purple brocade, with yellow flowers, and loose + trousers of the same material, but of a different hue, were the + prevailing fashion with the chiefs. These were distinguished from + the soldiers by having silver ornaments upon their shields. At + present all retained their arms; but the 10th Native Infantry had + been left at the foot of the hill with orders to disarm them as + they came down the road. All along our march over Salamgi this + extraordinary scene continued; and we saw more people than we have + seen during the whole time we have been in Abyssinia. The general + opinion is, that there could not have been less than thirty + thousand people congregated here; and I believe that this + computation is rather under than over the mark.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There was a + universal feeling of thankfulness that we had not been obliged to + bombard the place, as the slaughter among this defenceless crowd of + people would have been terrible. Wherever was a level piece of + ground, there their habitations were clustered. They were mere + temporary abodes—a framework of sticks, covered with coarse grass, + placed regularly and thickly, so as to turn the rain. They were + about the size and shape of ordinary haycocks, and show that the + people must sleep, as they sit, curled almost into a ball.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From the + shoulder we climbed up the very winding road <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page397">[pg 397]</span><a name="Pg397" id="Pg397" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>on the face of the natural scarps to + Salamgi. The natural strength of these positions is astounding. + Fahla is tremendously strong; but yet it is as nothing to Salamgi, + which commands it. Colonel Milward, who commands the artillery, + remarked to me that in the hands of European troops it would be not + only impregnable, but perfectly unattackable. Gibraltar from the + land side is considered impregnable; but Gibraltar is absolutely + nothing to this group of fortresses. After capturing Fahla and + Salamgi—if such a thing were possible—an attacking force would + still have Magdala to deal with; and Magdala rises from the end of + the flat shoulder which connects it with Salamgi in an unbroken + wall, except at the one point where a precipitous road leads up to + the gate. It is 2500 yards from the top of Salamgi to Magdala, and + even the heaviest artillery could do nothing against the wall of + rock. We may well congratulate ourselves that Theodore sent his + army to attack our baggage; for had they remained and defended the + place, provided as they were with forty cannon, our loss would have + been very heavy; and even with our superior weapons it is a + question whether we could have succeeded, the road in many cases + winding along the face of a precipice, which a few men from above + merely rolling down stones could have cleared. When we had reached + the brow of Salamgi—a still higher scarp of which rose two hundred + feet above us—Major Baigrie halted for orders, and I rode on with + two or three others to the little body of the 3d Native Cavalry, + who were half a mile further on, at the edge of the flat between + Salamgi and Magdala.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I should say + that early in the morning we had received news that Theodore had + left in the night with a small body of his adherents, and intended + to gain the camp of the Queen <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page398">[pg 398]</span><a name="Pg398" id="Pg398" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>of the Gallas, and to throw himself upon her + hospitality, the Gallas being wandering tribes, who, like the + Arabs, would protect their bitterest enemy if he reached their + tents and claimed hospitality. When we were nearly at the top of + the hill, we had received a message from the cavalry, saying that + there was a rumour that Theodore had returned, and had committed + suicide.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When we reached + the cavalry, however, we found a state of some excitement + prevailing: some eight or ten horsemen, among whom Captain Speedy + had recognised Theodore himself, having just galloped up + brandishing spears and discharging their muskets in defiance. + Colonel Locke could not, of course, charge without orders; and, + indeed, it would have been most imprudent to do so, as the whole of + the shoulder, a quarter of a mile wide, and six or seven hundred + yards to the fort of Magdala, were covered with the little huts, + behind and in which any number of men might be concealed. Colonel + Locke then threw-out a few of his men as skirmishers. The horsemen + continued to gallop about, sometimes approaching to within three + hundred yards, sometimes dashing across the plateau as if they + meditated a descent into the valley far below by one of the winding + paths which led down. To prevent this, Colonel Locke called to five + or six soldiers of the 33d, and two or three artillerymen, who had + somehow got separated from their corps and had come down towards + us, to take up a position to command the path, and to open fire if + the horsemen attempted to go down it.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the same time + we saw upon the top of Salamgi, behind us, a company of the 33d, + who had gone up there to plant the colours. Colonel Locke had the + advance blown, and <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page399">[pg + 399]</span><a name="Pg399" id="Pg399" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>signalled to them to come down to command the + opposite side of the shoulder, in case the horsemen might attempt + to descend into the valley by any path which might exist upon that + side. The horsemen again moved in and discharged their rifles at + us; and the cavalry keeping their places, our little party of 33d + answered with their Sniders. As they did so, they moved forward, + and in another hundred yards we came upon no less than twenty + cannon, which Theodore had, no doubt, intended to have moved across + into Magdala, but had had no time to accomplish. These were, of + course, taken possession of; and, as an officer remarked with a + laugh to me, it is probably the first time that twenty guns were + ever captured in the face of an enemy by six men of the line, two + artillerymen, three or four officers, and the press. In the + tumbrils of the guns were their ammunition; and Lieutenant Nolan, + of the Artillery, assisted by two artillerymen, Captain Speedy, and + the civilians, at once proceeded to load them, and opened fire with + ball upon the foot-men, a hundred or so of whom we could now see + clustered at the foot of the road up to Magdala; the 33d men + keeping up a fire upon the horsemen and a few foot-men running over + the plains, and who occasionally answered; and the company of the + 33d, who had now come down nearly to the foot of the slope behind + us, also opening fire. It was one of the funniest scenes I ever + saw. There was Magdala at 500 yards’ distance, with its garrison + keeping up a scattered fire at us, none of the bullets, however, + reaching so far; there were a few shots from behind the little + haycock huts; there was Theodore himself galloping about with half + a dozen of his chiefs—picturesque figures in their bright-coloured + robes; and there was our little party waging a war upon them, with + not another soldier in sight, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page400">[pg 400]</span><a name="Pg400" id="Pg400" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>or, indeed, within half a mile of us. This + lasted for ten minutes or so; and then an officer rode up to order + the infantry to retire into the slope, but to keep the guns under + their fire. The cavalry had previously been ordered to retire. In + another quarter of an hour Penn’s battery came down to us and + opened fire, and the steel shells soon drove the enemy up the road + into the fortress. For a quarter of an hour they continued their + fire; and, when they had once got the range, every shell burst + close to the gateway, through which the road passed. Then there + came an order to cease firing; and Murray’s guns, which had taken + up their position upon the top of Salamgi, Twiss’s battery more to + the right, and the Naval Rocket Brigade, took up the fire. For + nearly two hours, with occasional intervals, these guns and Twiss’s + battery kept up their fire. While this was going on, we discovered + in a small tent, a hundred yards or so in our front, the Frenchman + Bardel, who is sick with a fever, and was at once carried to the + rear. We had, too, plenty of time to examine the guns. Some were of + English, some of Indian manufacture: all were of brass, and varied + in size from a fourteen-pounder downwards. There were two or three + small mortars among them. This was evidently the arsenal, for here + were tools and instruments of all descriptions—files, hammers, + anvils, &c. There were bags of charcoal and a forge; and here + were many hundreds of balls, varying in size from grape-shot to + immense stone balls for the giant mortar, which shattered to pieces + the other day at the first attempt to fire it.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At this time we + made a discovery which quite destroyed the feeling of pity which + the gallantry of Theodore in exposing himself to our fire had + excited. The Beloochees had <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page401">[pg 401]</span><a name="Pg401" id="Pg401" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>joined us, and were posted near the edge of a + precipice to our right. Their attention being attracted by an + overpowering stench, they looked over the edge of the rock; and + there, fifty feet below, was one of the most horrifying sights + which was ever beheld: there, in a great pile, lay the bodies of + the three hundred and fifty prisoners whom Theodore had murdered + last Thursday, and whom he had then thrown over the edge of the + precipice. There they lay—men, women, and little children—in a + putrefying mass. It was a most ghastly sight, and recalled to our + minds the horrible cruelty of the tyrant, and quite destroyed the + effect which his bravery had produced.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At last, at + half-past three, the troops came down and took their places; and at + a quarter to four the whole of the guns and rockets opened a + tremendous fire to cover the advance; and the 33d, preceded by a + small band of Engineers and Sappers under Major Pritchard, and + followed by the 45th, advanced to the assault, the 4th and the rest + of the first brigade retaining their places as a reserve. When + within three hundred yards of the rock, the 33d formed line and + opened fire at the gateway and high hedge which bordered the summit + of the precipice—the most tremendous fire I ever heard. Even the + thunder—which was, as during the fight of Good Friday, roaring + overhead—was lost in the roar of the seven hundred Snider rifles, + and which was re-echoed by the rocks in their front. Under cover of + this tremendous fire the Engineers and the leading company advanced + up the path. When they were half-way up, the troops ceased firing, + and the storming-party scrambled up at a run. All this time + answering flashes had come back from a high wall which extended for + some feet at the side <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page402">[pg + 402]</span><a name="Pg402" id="Pg402" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of + the gateway, and from behind the houses and rocks near it. When the + Engineers, headed by Major Pritchard, reached the gateway, several + shots were fired through loopholes in the wall, and two or three + men staggered back wounded, Major Pritchard himself receiving two + very slight flesh-wounds in the arm. The men immediately put their + rifles through the holes, and kept up a constant fire, so as to + clear-away their enemies from behind it.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Then there was a + pause, which for a time no one understood; but at last a soldier + forced his way down the crowded path with the astounding + intelligence that the Engineers, who had headed the storming-party + for the purpose of blowing the gate in, had actually forgotten to + take any powder with them! Neither had they crowbars, axes, or + scaling-ladders. General Staveley at once despatched an officer to + bring up powder from the artillery-wagons.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The 45th opened + fire to prevent the enemy’s skirmishers doing damage; and a few + pioneers of the 45th were sent up with axes to force open the gate. + In the mean time, however, the men of the 33d, upon the road + leading up to the gate, discovered a spot half-way up, by which + they were able to scramble up to the left, and, getting through the + hedge, they quickly cleared away the defenders of the gate. A large + portion of the regiment entered at this spot, the gate not being + fairly opened for a quarter of an hour after the storming-party + arrived at it; for when it was broken down, it was found that the + gate-house was filled with very large stones; and therefore, had + powder been at hand, and the gate been blown in, a considerable + time must have elapsed before the party could have entered. Behind + the gateway were a cluster of huts, many of whose inhabitants still + remained in them in <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page403">[pg + 403]</span><a name="Pg403" id="Pg403" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>spite of the heavy fire which had for two + hours been kept up. Behind them was a natural scarp of twenty-five + or thirty feet high, with a flight of steps wide enough only for a + single man to ascend at a time. At the top of this was another + gate, which had been blown open by the rifles of the 33d. I entered + with the rear of the regiment; but all was by that time over. By + the first gateway were six or seven bodies, and two or three men by + the second. Beyond this was the level plateau, thickly scattered + with the native huts of their ordinary construction—not the + haycock-fabrics which had covered the other hills and plateau. At a + hundred yards from the gate lay the body of Theodore himself, + pierced with three balls, one of which, it is said, he fired with + his own hand. He was of middle height and very thin, and the + expression of his face in death was mild rather than the reverse. + He had thrown-off the rich robe in which he had ridden over the + plain, and was in an ordinary chief’s red-and-white cloth.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The fighting was + now over. A hundred men or so had escaped down a path upon the + other side of the fortress, and the rest of the defenders had fled + into their houses, and emerged as peaceable inhabitants without + their weapons. Nothing could be more admirable than the behaviour + of the 33d. I did not see a single instance of a man either of this + or of the regiment which followed attempting to take a single + ornament or other article from the person of any of the natives. + These latter thronged out of their houses, bearing their household + goods, and salaaming to the ground, as they made their way towards + the gate of the fort. I went into several of the abandoned huts; + they contained nothing but rubbish. A few goats and cattle stood in + the enclosures, and bags of <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page404">[pg 404]</span><a name="Pg404" id="Pg404" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>grain were in plenty. The poor people had been + well content to escape with their lives, and with what they could + carry away on their own shoulders and those of their + pack-animals.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I presently met + an affecting procession. These were the native prisoners. Laden + with heavy feet-chains were at least a hundred poor wretches who + had lingered for years in the tyrant’s clutches. Many of them were + unable to walk, and were carried along by their friends. We pitied + them vastly more than we have done the prisoners sent in to us, + who, with commodious tents, numbers of servants, and plentiful + supplies of money and food, have had a far better time of it than + these poor wretches of natives. They endeavoured in every way to + express their joy and thankfulness. They bent to the ground, they + cried, they clapped their hands; and the women—at least such as + were not chained—danced, and set-up their shrill cry of welcome. + Very kind were the soldiers to them, and not a few gave-up their + search for odd articles of plunder to set-to with hammer and chisel + to remove their chains. There were some hundreds of huts upon the + flat plateau, but not one of them bore any signs of the + bombardment; and fortunately the great distance at which the guns + were fired had saved the inhabitants from the injury which they + must otherwise have suffered from the needless bombardment. A few + people had been wounded when the 33d had first entered, but their + number was very small; and it seems incredible that out of so large + a population only some ten or fifteen, and these the defenders of + the gate, were killed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The huts were + all of the same size and description—stone walls with conical + roofs, and no light except that which en<span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page405">[pg 405]</span><a name="Pg405" id="Pg405" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>tered by the door. The King himself lived in a + tent. His wife, or I should rather say wives, lived in a house + precisely similar in shape, but larger than the other tents. One or + two of these poor women were among the wounded, having rushed + wildly about the place before the firing ceased, and being struck + by stray bullets. It is extremely satisfactory to know that no + lives, with the exception of those of the actual fighting-men, were + sacrificed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We have no + killed, but have ten or fifteen wounded, most of them very + slightly. One of the Punjaubees who was wounded in the fight three + days before has since died. The loot obtained by the soldiers was + generally of the most trifling description. Pieces of the hangings + of the King’s tent, bits of tawdry brocade, and such-like, are the + general total. A very few got some gold crosses, and other more + valuable articles. A general order has been issued, ordering all + valuable spoil to be returned; but I do not imagine that the amount + returned will be large. All the spoil taken, with the arms, + &c., will be sold by auction in a day or two, and the result at + once divided. It is known that considerable sums in dollars and + gold have been buried, and a search is being instituted for them, + but without, I imagine, much chance of success. In my wanderings I + came upon a large hut, which turned out to be the royal cellar. + Here the natives were serving-out <span class= + "tei tei-q">“tedge”</span>—which I have already described as a + drink resembling small-beer and lemonade mixed, with a very strong + musty flavour—to soldiers. There were at least a hundred large jars + filled with the liquid, which the soldiers call beer, and which, + thirsty as the men were, was very refreshing. It was now nearly six + o’clock, and the soldiers had had nothing to eat or drink since + early morning. <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page406">[pg + 406]</span><a name="Pg406" id="Pg406" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>I + should say that every soldier in the force supped that night upon + fowl. Their value here, except when offered to us for sale, is + merely nominal, and none of the people took the trouble to take + them away; consequently they were running about in hundreds, and + gave rise to many animated chases.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Magdala itself + is about half a mile long by a quarter of a mile wide, its narrow + end joining the shoulder to Salamgi, and as this end is rather + narrow, it touches the shoulder only for about fifty or sixty + yards. At this point I should say that the plateau of the fortress + is 200 feet above the shoulder. Upon its other side it would be + 1200 feet sheer down. The 33d planted their colours upon the + highest spot, and General Napier when he entered addressed a few + words to the men, saying, <span class="tei tei-q">“that they had + made the attack in gallant style.”</span> Of course, as it turned + out, the danger was slight; but this does not detract from the way + in which the regiment went up to the assault; as, for anything they + could tell, there might have been hundreds of men concealed in the + huts immediately behind the gate.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The two most + valuable articles of booty which were known to have been obtained + were purchased by Mr. Holmes, of the British Museum, for the + nation, of the soldiers by whom they were taken. The one was, one + of the royal shields of Abyssinia, one of which I described as + having been borne by Gobayze’s uncle when he visited our camp. The + other is a gold chalice, probably four or five centuries old. It + has the inscription in Amharic, of which the following is the + translation: <span class="tei tei-q">“The chalice of King + Adam-Squad, called Gazor, the son of Queen Brhan, Moquera. + Presented to Kwoskwan Sanctuary (Gondar). May my body and soul be + purified! <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page407">[pg + 407]</span><a name="Pg407" id="Pg407" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Weight 25 wohkits of pure gold, and value 500 + dollars. Made by Waldo Giergis.”</span> The name of the maker would + seem to testify that he was either the son of an Italian, or an + Italian who had adopted an Abyssinian first name. As these + acquisitions are made for the nation, Sir Robert has decided that + they are not to be given up. He has also directed that Mr. Holmes + may select such other articles as may be suited to the Museum + before the auction takes place.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The second + brigade passed the night in Magdala, and still remain there; the + first brigade returned to camp, which they did not reach until a + very late hour. The aspect of the hill of Salamgi, and of the + plains below it, was very striking, as I rode through it at night. + The great emigrant population had encamped there, and their + innumerable fires had a very pretty effect. During the night a very + scandalous act of theft and sacrilege took place. The coffin of the + late Abuna, a high priest, was broken open; his body was torn + almost to pieces, and a cross, set with precious stones of the + value of some thousands of pounds, was stolen. It is quite certain + that this act was not perpetrated by our soldiers, as they of + course knew nothing either of the Abuna or his cross. Suspicion + generally points to some of the late prisoners, who knew, what was, + it appears, a matter of notoriety, that the Abuna had purchased + this extremely valuable ornament to be buried with it.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The expedition + is now at an end. Its objects are most successfully attained, and + the interest and excitement are over. We have now only our long and + weary march back again. The day upon which we turn our faces + homeward is not yet settled; the 20th is at present named. We shall + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page408">[pg 408]</span><a name= + "Pg408" id="Pg408" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>probably halt at + Dalanta for a day or two, and there it is said that Gobayze will + visit the Chief, and that we shall have a grand parade.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The opinion + which the natives will entertain of us upon our homeward march will + be singularly different from those with which they regarded us upon + our advance. Then they looked upon us as mere traders, prepared to + buy, but incompetent to fight for our countrymen in chains; now + they will regard us as the conquerors of the hitherto invincible + Theodore, and as braves, therefore, of the most distinguished + order.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc88" id="toc88"></a> <a name="pdf89" id="pdf89"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Before Magdala, April 16th. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My letter + describing the fall of Magdala was only written two days ago, and I + have but few scraps of intelligence to add. These, however, I shall + now send, in hopes that they may arrive by the same mail which + conveyed my last. We have had only two excitements here; the one + the perquisition—indeed, by the way it was conducted, I may call it + inquisition—for loot; the other, the constant plunder by those + arrant thieves, the Gallas. The first orders with respect to + plunder were reasonable and sensible enough. They were, that all + articles of intrinsic value, or which might be nationally + interesting, were to be given up. This no one objected to. It was + only fair that all booty collected of any value should be fairly + divided for the benefit of the force in general. The next order, + however, was simply ridiculous, and caused naturally a good deal of + grumbling. It was ordered that every article taken, of whatever + value or description, should be returned. Now, the men had + possessed <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page409">[pg + 409]</span><a name="Pg409" id="Pg409" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>themselves of all sorts of small mementoes of + the capture of Magdala. Spears and glass beads, books and scraps of + dresses, empty gourds and powder-horns, all sorts of little objects + in fact, the united intrinsic value of which would not be twenty + dollars, but which were valuable mementoes to the three or four + thousand men who had picked them up—all these were now to be given + up; and so strict was the search, that I saw even the men’s + havresacks examined to see that they had hidden nothing. The pile + of objects collected was of the most miscellaneous description, and + looked like the contents of a pawnbroker’s shop in the + neighbourhood of Whitechapel. These things were valuable to the + men, as having been collected by them in Magdala; but they will + fetch nothing whatever when sold. It is a very great pity that the + original order was not adhered to, as the men would have all + acquiesced cheerfully enough in the summons that articles of + intrinsic value should be delivered up. As it is, the whole value + of the plunder will not exceed ten thousand dollars in value, and, + indeed, I question if it will approach that sum. The principal + articles of value, with the exception of some crosses, are of + English manufacture, double-barrelled guns, &c.; in fact, the + presents which the English Government sent out by Rassam. A medical + court have examined Theodore’s body, and have come to the + conclusion that he died by his own hand. Mr. Holmes, of the British + Museum, has taken an exceedingly good likeness of the dead monarch; + indeed, I do not know that I ever saw a more striking resemblance. + The Engineers have also taken a photograph of him.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Gallas have + been extremely troublesome for the last three days. The unfortunate + fugitives from Magdala are <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page410">[pg 410]</span><a name="Pg410" id="Pg410" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>encamped at the foot of the hill, and are + gradually moving-off to their respective homes. Round their camp, + and round the unfortunates upon their march, the Gallas swarm in + great numbers, robbing, driving-off their cattle and donkeys, + carrying-off their women and children into captivity, and wounding, + and sometimes killing, all who oppose them. Sometimes, too, they + attempt to rob our mules and stores. We do all we can to protect + the defenceless people, and detachments are constantly going out to + drive the robbers off. The infantry, the rocket-train, and the guns + have several times had to fire, and several of the plunderers have + been killed. Eighteen are at present prisoners in our camp, some of + whom were concerned in the murder of one of the Abyssinians. The + night before last they made an attack upon some of the mules with + the baggage of the 33d, near Magdala, but were beaten off with the + loss of several men. Now that we have got Magdala, our difficulty + is to dispose of it, and it is this only which is keeping us + waiting here. Magdala is, as I have already said, an almost + impregnable place, even in the hands of these savages. North and + west of them the people are Christians. Whether their Christianity, + or the Christianity of any savage people, does them any good + whatever, or makes them the least more moral or better than their + neighbours, it is needless now to inquire. At any rate they are a + settled people, living by the culture of their land. To the east of + these agricultural people are the Gallas, nomadic Mussulmans, whose + hand is against every man’s, who live by robbery and violence, and + who are slavers and man-stealers of the worst kind. Against them + Magdala stands as a bulwark. It is on the road between their + country and Abyssinia proper, and the garrison can always fall upon + their rear in case <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page411">[pg + 411]</span><a name="Pg411" id="Pg411" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of + an attempted foray. It was therefore desirable that it should be + intrusted to some power strong enough to hold in check this nation + of robbers. Theodore’s son, who, with his wives, has fallen into + our hands, is too young to be thought of, and there remains only + Gobayze, and his rival Menilek. Menilek in the early days of the + expedition was heard a good deal of. General Merewether was always + writing about him and his army of forty thousand men, and his great + friendship; but, like most of the gallant general’s promised lands, + Menilek’s assistance turned out a myth, and we have never heard of + him since we came within a hundred miles of Magdala. Gobayze, on + the other hand, has at any rate turned out to be a real personage. + He has never, it is true, done the slightest thing to assist us in + any way; still his uncle paid us a visit, and nearly got shot, so + that we may presume that this uncle really has a nephew called + Gobayze. Gobayze has been written to, to come and take possession + of Magdala, but he has not arrived; but this morning his uncle has + again appeared upon the scene, and, I understand, declines, in the + name of his relative, to have anything to say to Magdala. Magdala, + in fact, except as a stronghold to retreat to as a last resource, + is absolutely valueless. It is too far removed from the main + portion of Abyssinia to be of any strategical importance, and it + would require a couple of thousand men to garrison it, and who + would have to be supplied with provisions from a considerable + distance. Gobayze wants all his available force for the struggle he + will be engaged in with Menilek as soon as we leave the country, + and he does not at all care about detaching two thousand men to an + extreme corner of his dominions, where they could in no way affect + the issue of the war. He may change his mind; but if <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page412">[pg 412]</span><a name="Pg412" id="Pg412" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>he should not do so, we shall in a + couple of days start upon our backward course, and abandon Magdala + to the first comer. The Abyssinians complain bitterly of our mode + of fighting. With them an engagement is a species of duel. Both + sides charge simultaneously, discharge their pieces, and retreat to + load, repeating the manœuvre until one side or the other has had + enough of it. They object, therefore, excessively to our continuous + advance and fire, without any pause to reload. It is to this + unseemly practice that they attribute their defeat.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The whole army + are looking forward with the greatest eagerness for the order to + retire. Existence here is not a pleasant one. The weather in the + day is dry, hot, but not unpleasant; in the afternoon we have + always heavy rains, and cold at night. Our variety of provisions is + not great. We have plenty of meat, and little flour; no rum, no + tea, no sugar, no vegetables. By the way, the commissariat actually + managed to supply the extraordinarily liberal allowance of one dram + of rum per man to the force on the day after the capture of + Magdala. But our great want is water. We are literally without + water. A mile and a half off is a limited quantity, but it is very + limited indeed, and stinks abominably; so bad is it, that it is + difficult to distinguish what one is drinking, even if one is + fortunate enough to procure tea or coffee; and even of this there + is not sufficient for drinking purposes alone, and a man enters + another tent and asks as eagerly for a cup of water as if it were + the choicest of drinks. Washing is altogether out of the question; + and the animals have to be taken down to the muddy Bachelo, fifteen + hundred feet below us, and six miles distant, for their daily + draught. Decidedly the sooner we are out of this the better. At + present the 18th is the happy day decided upon; and I earnestly + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page413">[pg 413]</span><a name= + "Pg413" id="Pg413" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>hope that nothing + will occur to postpone our departure. Some of the troops will + certainly start to-day or to-morrow.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + <hr style="width: 30%" /> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc90" id="toc90"></a> <a name="pdf91" id="pdf91"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: right"> + Antalo, May 1st. + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There are few + things of less interest than the closing chapter of a campaign. The + excitement and anxiety, the success and triumph, are over; the + curtain has fallen upon the play, and we have only to put on our + wraps and go home. Even by the present date the telegraph has told + England of the success with which the expedition has been crowned. + When he has once read the details, the English reader will, after + the first little burst of natural pride and satisfaction, sit + himself down with a slight sigh to count the cost, and then + endeavour, as far as possible, to forget the unpleasant subject. I + feel that the heading of my letter, <span class="tei tei-q">“The + Abyssinian Expedition,”</span> will no longer be an attractive one. + Epilogues are gone out of fashion, and are only retained as a relic + of the past at the annual play of the Westminster boys. I should + imagine that at the end of a modern play very few people would + sit-out an epilogue; and in the same way, I anticipate that very + few readers will care for hearing any more about the barren and + mountainous country in which it has been our lot to sojourn for the + last six months. I should imagine that they must be nearly as weary + of the subject as we are ourselves. Never certainly in my + experience have special correspondents had so hard or so ungrateful + a task as that which has devolved upon us here. The country through + which the army has marched has been barren and mountainous in the + extreme. The actual events have been few and far between. + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page414">[pg 414]</span><a name= + "Pg414" id="Pg414" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>There has been no + opportunity for generalship or strategical movement. It has been + one long, slow, monotonous march, accompanied with more or less + hardship to all concerned. It has presented no points of comparison + with the shifting scenes and exciting phases of a European + campaign. It is only by its results, and by the remembrance of the + hostile criticisms and lugubrious prophecies with which it was + assailed in its early days, that we ourselves can judge of the + difficulty of the task accomplished, and of the way in which the + world will view it. It has to us been simply a monotony of hard + work and hard living. Until the last week of our march we had no + excitement whatever to enliven it; and, as far as the incidents of + the campaign have been concerned, there has been but little to + recompense the British taxpayer for his outlay. In other respects + there is no doubt that, worthless as were the set of people as a + whole in whose favour this costly expedition has been undertaken, + the money has been well spent. In no other way, with so + comparatively small an outlay, could Great Britain have recovered + the prestige which years of peace had undoubtedly much impaired + both in Europe and the East. England has shown that she can go to + war really for an idea; that she can embark in a war so difficult, + hazardous, and costly, that no other European Power would have + undertaken it under similar circumstances, and this, without the + smallest idea of material advantage to herself. England had, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">pace</span></span> our French critics, no + possible benefit to derive from the conquest or occupation of + Abyssinia. With Aden and Perim in our power, the Red Sea is + virtually an English lake, and the possession of Abyssinia, + hundreds of miles from the port of Annesley Bay, which in itself is + quite out of the track of vessels between Suez and <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page415">[pg 415]</span><a name="Pg415" id="Pg415" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Aden, would be a source of weakness + rather than of additional strength. The war was undertaken purely + from a generous national impulse, aggravated by the feeling that + the captivity of our unfortunate countrymen was due to no fault of + their own, but attributable to the gross blundering of the men to + whom the foreign affairs of the nation were unfortunately + intrusted. Our success has been astonishing even to ourselves, and + has been providentially accomplished in the face of blunders and + mistakes which would have ruined any other expedition.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In my last + letter I stated that Gobayze had declined to accept the charge of + Magdala. It was consequently determined to burn it; and on the 18th + ultimo fire was applied, and in a very short time the whole of the + thatched tents were in a blaze. The wind was blowing freshly at the + time, and in a few minutes the whole of the plateau of Magdala was + covered with a fierce blaze, which told to the surrounding country + for miles that the last act of atonement was being inflicted. Had + the scene taken place at night, it would have been grand in the + extreme; but even in broad day the effect of the sheet of flame, + unclouded as it was by smoke—for the dry roofs burned like + tinder—was very fine. Imagine a gigantic farmyard of three-quarters + of a mile long by nearly half a mile wide, and containing above 300 + hayricks, in a blaze; and the effect of burning Magdala may be + readily conceived. Simultaneously with the conflagration the gates + were blown up and the pieces of ordnance burst; and then the troops + who had been told-off for the task retired from the scene of their + signal success to join their comrades, and march the next day for + the sea-shore. I started for Dalanta the day before the departure + of the troops, and was very glad <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page416">[pg 416]</span><a name="Pg416" id="Pg416" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>that I did so, as I thereby avoided the + tremendous confusion of the baggage, part of which was nearly + thirty hours upon the road, and witnessed one of the most + extraordinary scenes I ever beheld. At the Bachelo river I came + upon the van of the principal column of the fugitives from Magdala, + who had encamped upon the previous night by the stream. Here the + number of empty gourds, cooking-vessels, and rubbish of all kinds, + showed that, scanty as their baggage was, it was already too great + for their means of transport. A mile farther I came upon their + rear. As far as the eye could reach up the winding path to the + summit of the gorge, they swarmed in a thick gray multitude. Thirty + thousand human beings, men, women, and children, besides + innumerable animals of all kinds. Never, probably, since the great + Exodus from Egypt, was so strange a sight witnessed. All were + laden; for once, the men had to share the labours of their wives + and families; and indeed I may say that the males of this portion + of Abyssinia are less lazy, and more willing to bear their share of + the family-labours, than were the men of Tigre, who, as I before + mentioned, never condescend to assist their wives in any way. The + men carried bags of grain—which, by the way, the men always carry + on one shoulder, and not upon their backs as the women do; the + women were similarly burdened, and in addition had gourds of water + and ghee, with a child or two clinging round their necks. The + children, too, carried their share of the household goods, all but + the very little ones; and these, little, naked, pot-bellied things, + trotted along holding by their mothers’ skirts. A few, who in the + crowd and confusion had lost their friends, sat down and cried + pitifully; but as a general thing they kept steadily up the steep + ascent, which was trying enough <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page417">[pg 417]</span><a name="Pg417" id="Pg417" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>to men, to say nothing of these poor little + mites. Although an involuntary exodus, it did not appear to me to + cause any pain or regret to anyone. Neither upon this occasion nor + upon the day when they quitted Magdala did I see a tear shed, or + witness any demonstrations of grief. Now, the Abyssinians are an + extremely demonstrative people, and weep and wail copiously and + obstreperously over the smallest fancied grievance; consequently, I + cannot but think that the great proportion of the people were glad + to leave Magdala, and to return to their respective countries. All + pressed steadily forward; there was no halting, no delay, scarce a + pause to take breath; for on their rear and flank, and sometimes in + their very midst, were the robber Gallas plundering all whom they + came across. I spoke of the Gallas in my last. Since that time they + have become even more bold and troublesome, and not a few have + fallen in skirmishes with our troops. Soon after we had joined the + body of fugitives, I heard screams and cries in front, and + riding-in at a gallop with my friend, we came upon a number of + natives in a state of great excitement, the women crying and + wringing their hands. They pointed to a ravine, and made us + understand that the Gallas were there. Riding up to it, we came + upon a party of eight or ten men with spears and shields driving + off a couple of dozen oxen they had just stolen. Before they could + recover from their surprise we were in their midst, and our + revolvers soon sent them flying up the hill with two or three of + their number wounded. We drove back the cattle, and were received + with acclamations by the unfortunate but miserably cowardly + natives, who could only with stones have kept their assailants at a + distance, had they had the pluck of so many sheep. A few hundred + yards further on we came upon <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page418">[pg 418]</span><a name="Pg418" id="Pg418" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>another party of Gallas actively engaged in + looting; and at the sight of us with our rifles and revolvers in + hand, most of them fled; but we captured two of the robbers, who + saw that throwing themselves upon their faces was the only chance + of escape from being shot. We tied their hands behind them, and + handed them over to our syces, who drove them before them until the + end of the day, when we delivered them over to Colonel Graves of + the 3d Cavalry, who was in command at Dalanta, and had the + satisfaction of seeing them get two dozen lashes each, well laid + on. After this skirmish, seeing numbers of Gallas hanging about, we + constituted ourselves a sort of rearguard to the native column, and + my double-barrelled rifle soon drove them to a distance, the long + range at which it sent balls into groups waiting for an opportunity + of attack evidently astonishing them greatly, and causing them to + scatter in the greatest haste. I think it a question whether the + Gallas or the Abyssinians are the greatest cowards. Two or three + officers coming up later upon the same day had skirmishes with + them, and three or four of the Gallas were killed. The natives + encamped upon the plains of Dalanta, their black blanket-tents + extending over a great extent of ground. The next day they crossed + the Djedda, and after mounting to the table-land beyond, were safe + from the attacks of the Gallas, and were able to pursue their way + to Gondar, and the other places to which they belonged, in + quiet.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the 20th the + whole of the troops were at Dalanta, and a grand parade took place. + The troops marched past, and were then formed into hollow square, + and the following order of the day was read to + them:</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page419">[pg + 419]</span><a name="Pg419" id="Pg419" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-text" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-body" style= + "margin-bottom: 6.00em; margin-top: 6.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-salute" style="text-align: left"> + “<span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: left"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Soldiers of the Army of + Abyssinia</span></span>, + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“The Queen and the people of England intrusted to + you a very arduous and difficult expedition—to release our + countrymen from a long and painful captivity, and to vindicate + the honour of our country, which had been outraged by Theodore, + King of Abyssinia.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“I congratulate you, with all my heart, for the + noble way in which you have fulfilled the commands of our + Sovereign. You have crossed many steep and precipitous ranges + of mountains, more than ten thousand feet in altitude, where + your supplies could not keep pace with you. When you arrived + within reach of your enemy, though with scanty food, and some + of you for many hours without food or water, in four days you + have passed the formidable chasm of Bachelo and defeated the + army of Theodore, which poured down upon you from their lofty + fortress in full confidence of victory. A host of many + thousands have laid down their arms at your feet.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“You have captured and destroyed upwards of thirty + pieces of artillery, many of great weight and efficiency, with + ample stores of ammunition. You have stormed the + almost-inaccessible fortress of Magdala, defended by Theodore + with the desperate remnant of his chiefs and followers. After + you forced the entrance, Theodore, who never showed mercy, + distrusted the offers of mercy which had been held out to him, + and died by his own hands. You have released not only the + British captives, but those of other friendly nations. You have + unloosed the chains of more than ninety of the principal chiefs + of the Abyssinians.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Magdala, on which so many victims have been + slaugh<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page420">[pg + 420]</span><a name="Pg420" id="Pg420" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>tered, has been committed to the flames, + and remains only a scorched rock.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Our complete and rapid success is due—first, to + the mercy of God, whose hand I feel assured has been over us in + a just cause. Secondly, to the high spirit with which you have + been inspired. Indian soldiers have forgotten their prejudices + of race and creed to keep pace with their European + comrades.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Never has an army entered on a war with more + honourable feelings than yours; this has carried you through + many fatigues and difficulties. You have been only eager for + the moment when you could close with your enemy. The + remembrance of your privations will pass away quickly, but your + gallant exploit will live in history. The Queen and the people + of England will appreciate your services. On my part, as your + commander, I thank you for your devotion to your duty, and the + good discipline you have maintained; not a single complaint has + been made against a soldier of fields injured or villages + wilfully molested, in property or person.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“We must not forget what we owe to our comrades who + have been labouring for us in the sultry climate of Zulla and + the Pass of Koomaylo, or in the monotony of the posts which + maintained our communications; each and all would have given + all they possessed to be with us, and they deserve our + gratitude.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“I shall watch over your safety to the moment of + your embarkation, and to the end of my life remember with pride + that I have commanded you.</span></p> + + <div class="tei tei-signed" style="text-align: right"> + (Signed) <span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: right"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">R. + Napier</span></span>, Lieut.-general,<br /> + Commander-in-chief. + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-signed" style="text-align: right"> + (Signed) <span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: right"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">M. + Dillon</span></span>, Lieut.-colonel,<br /> + Military Secretary.” + </div> + </div> + </div><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page421">[pg 421]</span><a name= + "Pg421" id="Pg421" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + proclamation, if a little grandiose in style, is true to the + letter. The men have endured privation and toil such as seldom + falls to a soldier’s lot, with a good feeling and cheerfulness + which has been literally beyond praise. The only occasions + throughout this expedition upon which I have heard grumbling has + been when the troops have been told by the quartermaster’s + department that they were to march a certain distance, and when the + march turned out to be half as far again. But this grumbling was + not against the distance or the toil, great as both were; it was + against the incapacity which had inflicted an unnecessary toil upon + them. At any necessary privation, at picket-duty in wet clothes + after a hard day’s march, at hunger and thirst, fatigue-duty, wet + and cold, I never heard them grumble; and I feel assured that, as + the general order says, the people of England will appreciate their + toils and services. In one point at least they may be to some + extent rewarded. Their pay here is exactly the same as they would + have drawn in India; they have no field or other extra allowance + whatever. Had the war taken place in India, the army would, most + unquestionably, be granted a year’s <span class= + "tei tei-q">“batta,”</span> as a reward for their suffering and + toil. In the present case the English Government holds the + purse-strings, but I trust that this well-earned extra pay will be + granted. It would form a comparatively small item in the expenses + of the expedition, and the boon would be an act of graceful + recognition on the part of the nation to the men who have borne its + flag so successfully under the most arduous and trying + circumstances.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">After the + reading of the general order, Sir Robert Napier handed over the + rescued prisoners to the representatives of the Governments to + which they belonged; and the <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page422">[pg 422]</span><a name="Pg422" id="Pg422" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>general feeling of every one was, that we + wished these officers joy of them, for a more unpromising-looking + set could hardly be found anywhere else outside the walls of a + prison. Sir Robert Napier, in handing these prisoners over, thanked + the foreign officers for having accompanied the expedition, and for + having shared in its toils and hardships. The ceremony over, the + last act of the Magdala drama may be considered to have terminated, + and the army on the next day marched for the coast, the second + brigade leading, and the first following a day in their rear. The + interest of the campaign being now over, I determined to come on at + full speed, instead of travelling at the necessary slow pace of the + army with all its encumbrances of material and baggage. It is, too, + vastly more pleasant to travel alone, the journeys are performed in + two-thirds of the time, and without the dust, noise, and endless + delays which take place in the baggage-train. At the end of the + journey the change is still more advantageous: one selects the site + for one’s tent near the little commissariat stations, but far + enough off to be quiet; and here, free from the neighing and + fighting of horses and mules, the challenge of the sentries, the + chattering of the native troops, who frequently talk until past + midnight, and the incessant noise of coughing and groaning, and + other unpleasant noises in which a Hindoo delights when he is not + quite well, we pass the night in tranquillity. The hyenas and + jackals are, it is true, a little troublesome, and howl and cry + incessantly about the canvas of our tent; but the noise of a hyena + is as music compared to the coughing and groaning of a sick Hindoo; + and so we do not grumble. We have a party of four, making, with our + ten servants, syces, and mule-drivers, a pretty strong party; no + undesirable thing, as the country is extremely dis<span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page423">[pg 423]</span><a name="Pg423" id="Pg423" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>turbed all the way down. Convoys are + constantly attacked, and the muleteers murdered; indeed, scarce a + day passes without an outrage of this kind. It is, perhaps, worst + between Lât and Atzala; but beyond Antalo, and down even in the + Sooro Pass, murders are almost daily events. The killing is not all + on one side, for numbers of the natives have been shot by the + guards of the convoys which they have attacked. The evil increases + every day, and the Commander-in-chief has just issued a + proclamation to the natives, which is to be translated into Amharic + and circulated through the country, warning the people that the + scouts have orders to fire upon any armed party they may meet, who + do not, upon being called upon to do so, at once retire and leave + the path clear. The fact is, that, except at this point, we have + not enough troops in the country to furnish guards of sufficient + strength to protect the convoys. A great many very wise people have + talked about our force being too large. At the present moment it is + actually insufficient for our needs, insufficient to protect our + convoys even against the comparatively few robbers and brigands who + now infest the line. A convoy of a thousand animals extends over a + very long tract of country; three or four miles at the least. What + can a dozen or so guards do to protect it? An instance occurred + to-day within three miles of this place. A convoy of a thousand + camels were coming along; the guards were scattered over its + length; and a man in the middle of the convoy was murdered by three + or four Abyssinians, whom the soldiers, who had gone on, had + noticed sitting quietly on some rocks at a few yards from the line + of march. The soldiers behind heard a cry, and rode up, only in + time to find the muleteer lying dead, and his murderers escaped. + When the robbers are in <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page424">[pg + 424]</span><a name="Pg424" id="Pg424" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>force, and attempt to plunder openly, they are + invariably beaten.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The other day + Lieutenant Holt was in command of a train with treasure for + Ashangi, having a guard of ten Sepoys. He was attacked by a band of + fifty or sixty men, who came up twice to the assault, but were + driven off, leaving three of their number dead upon the ground. + These cases are not exceptional; they are of daily occurrence, and + are rapidly upon the increase. It is greatly to be regretted; but + it was to be foreseen from the course of conduct pursued in the + first instance towards men caught robbing in the Sooro Pass. I + predicted at the time of my first visit to Senafe, early in + December last, what must be the inevitable result of the course + pursued to the men caught pillaging. They were kept in the + guard-house for a day or two, fed better than they had ever before + been in their lives, and then dismissed to steal again, and to + encourage their companions in stealing, believing that we were too + weak and too pusillanimous to dare to punish them. And so it has + been ever since. In the eyes of our political officers a native + could do no harm. Any punishment which has been inflicted upon them + has been given by regimental officers, or officers of the + transport-train, who have caught them robbing. And even this + moderate quota of justice was rendered at the peril of the judges. + Lieutenant Story, 26th regiment, a most energetic officer of the + transport-train—to give one example out of a score—found that at + one of the stations the natives who were anxious to come in to sell + grass and grain were driven away by two chiefs, who openly beat and + ill-treated those who persisted in endeavouring to sell to us. The + result was, that the natives kept away, and only a few ventured in + at night to sell their <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page425">[pg + 425]</span><a name="Pg425" id="Pg425" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>stores. Lieutenant Story found that his mules + were starving, and very properly caught the two chiefs, and gave + them half-a-dozen each. The chiefs reported the case; the mild + <span class="tei tei-q">“politicals”</span> as usual had their way; + and Lieutenant Story was summarily removed from the + transport-train.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I mentioned in a + former letter the case of the mule-driver who wrested the musket + from a man who was attempting to rob the mules, and shot him with + his own weapon, and who was rewarded for his gallantry by having a + dozen lashes. I could fill a column with similar instances. Had we + had the good fortune to have had a man of decision and energy as + our political officer instead of Colonel Merewether, all this would + have been avoided. The first man caught with arms in his hands + attacking and plundering our convoys should have been tried and + shot; it is what he would have received at the hands of the native + chiefs; and it would have put a stop to the brigandage. Instead of + which, the policy—if such pottering can be termed policy—has been + to encourage them, by every means in our power, to plunder our + convoys and murder our drivers and men. A stern policy with savages + is, in the end, infinitely the more merciful one. A couple of lives + at first would have saved fifty, which have already on both sides + been sacrificed, and a hundred more, which will be probably lost + before we are out of the country. Sir R. Napier, now that he has + taken the reins into his own hands, is fully alive to the error + that has been committed, and to the absolute necessity of showing + no more leniency to the robber-bands which begin to swarm around + us. It is most unfortunate that the early stages of our intercourse + with the natives had not been intrusted to a man of firmness and + sound sense. With the repeated caution of the officers at + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page426">[pg 426]</span><a name= + "Pg426" id="Pg426" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the various stations + in our ears, and with the accounts we received at almost every + halting-place of some attack and murder in the neighbourhood within + a day or two of our arrival, it may be imagined that we took every + precaution. Our servants were all armed with spears, our mules were + kept in close file, and two of us rode in front, two in the rear of + our party, with our rifles cocked, and our revolvers ready to hand. + As we anticipated, we were not attacked; for, as a general rule, + the cowardly robbers, however numerous, will not attack when they + see a prospect of a stout resistance. Our precautions were not, + however, in vain; for we knew that at least in one case we should + have been attacked had we not been so palpably upon our guard. On + the brow of the hill above Atzala we passed without seeing a single + native; but looking back after we had gone three or four hundred + yards, we saw a party of fifty or sixty men armed with spears and + shields, get up from among some bushes and rocks by the roadside + and make off. There is no doubt that, had we not been prepared, we + should have been attacked, and probably murdered. For the remainder + of our journey there is little danger. The looting, indeed, + continues all down the line; but the country is open and bare, and + the natives would never dream of attacking in the open.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have very + great regret in announcing the death from dysentery of Lieutenant + Morgan, of the Royal Engineers. He died at the front, and the news + of the sad event probably reached England by the last mail; but I + did not hear of it at Antalo until after I had despatched my last + letter. He was at the head of the signalling-department, and was + one of the most energetic and unwearied of officers. I never, + indeed, met a man more devoted to his work; and <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page427">[pg 427]</span><a name="Pg427" id="Pg427" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>had he lived, he would have become most + distinguished in his profession. Sir Robert Napier, who thoroughly + appreciated his efforts, has issued the following general order: + <span class="tei tei-q">“The Commander-in-chief has received with + great regret the report of the death of Lieutenant Morgan, R.E., in + charge of the signallers of the 10th Company, R.E. Sir Robert + Napier had constant opportunities of observing the unflagging zeal + and energy of this young officer, and the cheerful alacrity with + which he embraced every opportunity to render his special work + useful to the forces. Lieutenant Morgan set a bright example to + those under his command; and by his premature loss, owing to + prolonged exposure and fatigue, her Majesty’s service and the corps + of Royal Engineers are deprived of a most promising + officer.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Not often does + it fall to the lot of a subaltern to win such high and well-merited + praise from his commander-in-chief; but poor Morgan was one in a + thousand. His death unquestionably was the result of his hard work + and exposure. He was one of those to whom his duty, however severe, + was a pleasure. Although he could have ridden, had he chosen to do + so, he marched at the head of his little body of men, lightening + their labours by some cheerful remark; and when arrived at camp, + and when other men’s work was over, he would perhaps be sent off to + arrange for signalling orders to the brigade in the rear, a duty + which would occupy the entire night. He would be off with a + cheerful alacrity which I never saw ruffled. He was quiet and + unaffected in manner, and was one of those men who are most liked + by those who best know them. It is with sincere regret that I write + this brief notice of his untimely death.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Respecting the + country, I have little to tell that is not <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page428">[pg 428]</span><a name="Pg428" id="Pg428" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>already known to English readers. After the + tremendous gorges of the Djedda and Bachelo, which are now + ascertained to be 3900 feet in depth, the hills upon this side of + the Tacazze, which had appeared so formidable when we before + crossed them, are mere trifles. The roads, too, were much better + than when we went up, the second brigade and Sappers and Miners + having done a good deal of work upon them to render them + practicable for elephants. The rain which has fallen lately has + done a good deal to brighten-up the country; not upon the bare + hill-sides—there all is brown and burnt-up as before—but in the + bottom of the valleys and upon the hill-sides, where streamlets + have poured down during the rains, the bright green of the young + grass affords a pleasant relief to the eye. The crops, too, look + bright and well; and it is a curious circumstance, that here there + appears to be no fixed time for harvest. It is no unusual thing to + see three adjoining patches of cultivated land—the one having + barley in full ear, the second having the crop only a few inches + above the ground, and the third undergoing the operation of the + plough.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The army is now + about seven days in my rear, as I travel very much faster than they + do. Every available mule is being sent up to meet them, to carry + down stores and baggage; and there is rum and all other comforts + for them at the principal stations upon their way. The native + carriage is at work bringing down the spare supplies; and if there + are but sufficient of them employed, the stores will soon cease to + trouble us; for the natives are such arrant thieves, that between + this and Atzala, only two days’ march, bags of rice and flour which + started weighing 75 lb. arrive weighing only 40 lb., 30 lb., and + sometimes only 25 lb. The word <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page429">[pg 429]</span><a name="Pg429" id="Pg429" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Habesh, which is their own general name for + the people of Abyssinia, means a mixture; and I can hardly imagine + a worse mixture than it is, for they appear to have inherited all + the vices and none of the virtues of the numerous races of whom + they are composed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Beyond this I + need write no more; but I cannot close my journal of the Abyssinian + expedition without expressing my gratitude for the very great and + uniform kindness with which I have been treated by the + Commander-in-chief, and by the greater portion of his staff. I + would particularly mention Colonel Dillon, the Military Secretary; + one of the most able and certainly the most popular officer upon + the staff, and whose kindness and attention to us has been + unbounded. He has been always ready to afford us any information in + his power, and to assist us in all those little difficulties with + which a civilian travelling with an army is unavoidably beset.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Abyssinian + expedition may now be said to be over, and has been a more perfect + and extraordinary success than the most sanguine could have + predicted. It would, in the face of the terrible forebodings which + were launched when it was first set about, have seemed an almost + impossibility that we could have journeyed here, defeated and + almost annihilated Theodore’s army, obtained the whole of the + prisoners, stormed Magdala—incomparably the strongest fortress in + the world—and killed Theodore, and returned before the rains, with + the loss of only one man dead from his wounds, and two or three + from sickness; a loss infinitely less than would have taken place + in the ordinary course of nature among so large a body of men. And + yet this apparent impossibility has been, by the special providence + of God, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page430">[pg + 430]</span><a name="Pg430" id="Pg430" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>achieved; for that He has specially blessed + our efforts, it would be the height of scepticism to doubt. We have + passed through fatigues and hardships which one would have thought + must have told upon the strongest constitution. We have had wet day + after day, with bitterly cold winds, and no change even of + underclothing for a month; we have had no tobacco or stimulants to + enable the system to resist this wet and cold; and yet the + hospitals are empty, and the health of the troops perfect. We have + defeated a large and hitherto invincible army, and taken the + strongest fortress in the world, with the loss of one man. We have + accomplished a march through a country of fabulous difficulties, + destitute of roads and almost destitute of food, and with our + difficulties of transport vastly aggravated by the untrustworthy + reports of those sent on before, and by the consequent breakdown of + our baggage-train, from disease, thirst, and overwork; and yet we + shall leave the country before the rains.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Humanly, too + much credit can scarcely be given to Sir Robert Napier. He has had + to overcome innumerable difficulties, which I have from time to + time alluded to; but he has met them all admirably. As is often the + case with successful commanders, he is immensely popular. The + extreme kindness and thoughtfulness of his manner to all make him + greatly beloved, and I believe that the men would have done + anything for him.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Upon the whole, + England may well be proud of the campaign,—proud of her General, + and of the gallant and hardy army, whose endurance and labour + carried it out successfully. It has not numerically been a great + campaign; but by our success under innumerable difficulties, + England has gained a prestige which, putting aside the proper + objects <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page431">[pg + 431]</span><a name="Pg431" id="Pg431" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of + the campaign, is cheaply attained at the cost, and which is the + more gratifying inasmuch as that England, although she has always + risen under difficulties, and has come triumphantly out of great + wars, has yet notoriously failed in her <span class= + "tei tei-q">“little wars.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 5.00em">THE + END.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.75em; margin-top: 3.75em"> + <span style="font-size: 75%">LONDON:</span><br /> + <span style="font-size: 75%">ROBSON AND SON, GREAT NORTHERN + PRINTING WORKS,</span><br /> + <span style="font-size: 75%">PANCRAS ROAD, N.W.</span></p> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-back" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 6.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + + <div id="footnotes" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc92" id="toc92"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">Footnotes</span></h1> + + <dl class="tei tei-list-footnotes"> + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_1" name="note_1" href= + "#noteref_1">1.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">It was not for some months after + this date that the transport officers were allowed to move their + camp to a more habitable spot.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_2" name="note_2" href= + "#noteref_2">2.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This regimental arrangement was + carried out during the latter part of the march to Magdala, and + was found to answer extremely well.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_3" name="note_3" href= + "#noteref_3">3.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">My anticipations with regard to the + railway were more than realised; for the last two miles of the + railway to Koomaylo were not made at the termination of the + expedition, and the portion which was completed was, without + exception, the roughest, most shaky, and most dangerous piece of + railway ever laid down. It is to be hoped that upon any future + occasion a contractor will be employed instead of an engineer + officer, who cannot have either the requisite knowledge or + experience.</dd> + </dl> + </div> + </div> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + + <div class="boxed tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <a name="pdf93" id="pdf93"></a><a name="toc94" id="toc94"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">Transcriber’s Note</span></h1> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The table of + contents has been added to the electronic version.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The following + changes have been made to the text:</p> + + <table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <tbody> + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr016" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 16</a>, <span class="tei tei-q">“o”</span> + changed to <span class="tei tei-q">“of”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr017" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 17</a>, period changed to comma after + <span class="tei tei-q">“released”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr023" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 23</a>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“reconnoisance”</span> changed to <span class= + "tei tei-q">“reconnoissance”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr118" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 118</a>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“ever”</span> changed to <span class= + "tei tei-q">“over”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr120" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 120</a>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“provisons”</span> changed to <span class= + "tei tei-q">“provisions”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr273" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 273</a>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Grifiths”</span> changed to <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Griffiths”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr322" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 322</a>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“innumnerable”</span> changed to <span class= + "tei tei-q">“innumerable”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr353" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 353</a>, period changed to comma after + <span class="tei tei-q">“Gazoo”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr372" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 372</a>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“were”</span> changed to <span class= + "tei tei-q">“where”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr377" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 377-378</a>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“aide-camp”</span> changed to <span class= + "tei tei-q">“aide-de-camp”</span></td> + </tr> + </tbody> + </table> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Variations in + hyphenation (e.g. <span class="tei tei-q">“breakdown”</span>, + <span class="tei tei-q">“break-down”</span>; <span class= + "tei tei-q">“waterproof”</span>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“water-proof”</span>) have not been changed.</p> + </div></div> + +<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MARCH TO MAGDALA ***</div> +<div style='text-align:left'> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will +be renamed. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. 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