diff options
Diffstat (limited to '39463-h')
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/39463-h.htm | 11510 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/book.png | bin | 0 -> 218 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/bracket-left.gif | bin | 0 -> 140 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/card.png | bin | 0 -> 249 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/external.png | bin | 0 -> 172 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/frontcover.jpg | bin | 0 -> 52591 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p000.jpg | bin | 0 -> 69809 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p026-1.jpg | bin | 0 -> 33886 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p026-2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 40736 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p046-1.jpg | bin | 0 -> 52123 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p046-2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 53985 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p054-1.jpg | bin | 0 -> 31650 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p054-2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 45620 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p072-1.jpg | bin | 0 -> 45966 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p072-2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 58580 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p076-1.jpg | bin | 0 -> 36400 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p076-2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 46746 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p086.jpg | bin | 0 -> 66107 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p132-1.jpg | bin | 0 -> 34057 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p132-2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 42492 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p142-1.jpg | bin | 0 -> 35206 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p142-2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 38412 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p148-1.jpg | bin | 0 -> 34751 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p148-2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 37931 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p158-1.jpg | bin | 0 -> 42495 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p158-2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 38732 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p166-1.jpg | bin | 0 -> 39627 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p166-2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 44884 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p174.jpg | bin | 0 -> 63492 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p176.jpg | bin | 0 -> 65201 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p180.jpg | bin | 0 -> 63291 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p188.jpg | bin | 0 -> 69869 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p192.jpg | bin | 0 -> 67761 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p210-1.jpg | bin | 0 -> 47791 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p210-2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 46081 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p216.jpg | bin | 0 -> 80182 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p222-1.jpg | bin | 0 -> 50194 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p222-2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 42946 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p224.jpg | bin | 0 -> 79531 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p240.jpg | bin | 0 -> 61142 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p246.jpg | bin | 0 -> 82542 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p259.gif | bin | 0 -> 7356 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/p296.jpg | bin | 0 -> 42593 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 39463-h/images/titlepage.gif | bin | 0 -> 14586 bytes |
44 files changed, 11510 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/39463-h/39463-h.htm b/39463-h/39463-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5f6a7bc --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/39463-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,11510 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN" +"http://www.w3.org/TR/html4/loose.dtd"> +<!-- This HTML file has been automatically generated from an XML source on 2012-04-16T19:34:12Z. --> +<html lang="en"> +<head> +<meta name="generator" content= +"HTML Tidy for Windows (vers 25 March 2009), see www.w3.org"> +<title>Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia</title> +<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> +<meta name="generator" content= +"tei2html.xsl, see http://code.google.com/p/tei2html/"> +<meta name="author" content="M. E. Hume-Griffith"> +<link rel="schema.DC" href= +"http://dublincore.org/documents/1998/09/dces/"> +<meta name="DC.Creator" content="M. E. Hume-Griffith"> +<meta name="DC.Title" content= +"Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia"> +<meta name="DC.Language" content="en"> +<meta name="DC.Format" content="text/html"> +<meta name="DC.Publisher" content="Project Gutenberg"> +<meta name="DC:Subject" content="Women -- Asia"> +<meta name="DC:Subject" content="Iran -- Social life and customs"> +<meta name="DC:Subject" content="Iraq -- Social life and customs"> +<style type="text/css"> +body +{ +font: 100%/1.2em "Times New Roman", Times, serif; +margin: 1.58em 16%; +text-align: left; +} +/* Titlepage */ +.titlePage +{ +border: #DDDDDD 2px solid; +margin: 3em 0% 7em 0%; +padding: 5em 10% 6em 10%; +text-align: center; +} +.titlePage .docTitle +{ +line-height: 3.5em; +margin: 2em 0% 2em 0%; +font-weight: bold; +} +.titlePage .docTitle .mainTitle +{ +font-size: 1.8em; +} +.titlePage .docTitle .subTitle, .titlePage .docTitle .seriesTitle, .titlePage .docTitle .volumeTitle +{ +font-size: 1.44em; +} +.titlePage .byline +{ +margin: 2em 0% 2em 0%; +font-size:1.2em; +line-height:1.72em; +} +.titlePage .byline .docAuthor +{ +font-size: 1.2em; +font-weight: bold; +} +.titlePage .figure +{ +margin: 2em 0% 2em 0%; +margin-left: auto; +margin-right: auto; +} +.titlePage .docImprint +{ +margin: 4em 0% 0em 0%; +font-size: 1.2em; +line-height: 1.72em; +} +.titlePage .docImprint .docDate +{ +font-size: 1.2em; +font-weight: bold; +} +/* End Titlepage */ +.transcribernote +{ +background-color:#DDE; +border:black 1px dotted; +color:#000; +font-family:sans-serif; +font-size:80%; +margin:2em 5%; +padding:1em; +} +.advertisment +{ +background-color:#FFFEE0; +border:black 1px dotted; +color:#000; +margin:2em 5%; +padding:1em; +} +.correctiontable +{ +width: 75%; +} +.width20 +{ +width: 20%; +} +.width40 +{ +width: 40%; +} +.indextoc +{ +text-align: center; +} +.div0 +{ +padding-top: 5.6em; +} +.div1 +{ +padding-top: 4.8em; +} +.index +{ +font-size: 80%; +} +.div2 +{ +padding-top: 3.6em; +} +.div3, .div4, .div5 +{ +padding-top: 2.4em; +} +.footnotes .body, +.footnotes .div1 +{ +padding: 0; +} +.apparatusnote +{ +text-decoration: none; +} +table.alignedtext +{ +border-collapse: collapse; +} +table.alignedtext td +{ +vertical-align: top; +width: 50%; +} +table.alignedtext td.first +{ +border-width: 0 0.2px 0 0; +border-color: gray; +border-style: solid; +padding-right: 10px; +} +table.alignedtext td.second +{ +padding-left: 10px; +} +h1, h2, h3, h4, h5, h6, .h1, .h2, .h3, .h4 +{ +clear: both; +font-style: normal; +text-transform: none; +} +h3, .h3 +{ +font-size:1.2em; +line-height:1.2em; +} +h3.label +{ +font-size:1em; +line-height:1.2em; +margin-bottom:0; +} +h4, .h4 +{ +font-size:1em; +line-height:1.2em; +} +.alignleft +{ +text-align:left; +} +.alignright +{ +text-align:right; +} +.alignblock +{ +text-align:justify; +} +p.tb, hr.tb +{ +margin-top: 1.6em; +margin-bottom: 1.6em; +margin-left: auto; +margin-right: auto; +text-align: center; +} +p.argument, p.note, p.tocArgument +{ +font-size:0.9em; +line-height:1.2em; +text-indent:0; +} +p.argument, p.tocArgument +{ +margin:1.58em 10%; +} +p.tocPart +{ +margin:1.58em 0%; +font-variant: small-caps; +} +p.tocChapter +{ +margin:1.58em 0%; +} +p.tocSection +{ +margin:0.7em 5%; +} +.opener, .address +{ +margin-top: 1.6em; +margin-bottom: 1.6em; +} +.addrline +{ +margin-top: 0; +margin-bottom: 0; +} +.dateline +{ +margin-top: 1.6em; +margin-bottom: 1.6em; +text-align: right; +} +.salute +{ +margin-top: 1.6em; +margin-left: 3.58em; +text-indent: -2em; +} +.signed +{ +margin-top: 1.6em; +margin-left: 3.58em; +text-indent: -2em; +} +.epigraph +{ +font-size:0.9em; +line-height:1.2em; +width: 60%; +margin-left: auto; +} +.epigraph span.bibl +{ +display: block; +text-align: right; +} +.trailer +{ +clear: both; +padding-top: 2.4em; +padding-bottom: 1.6em; +} +.figure +{ +margin-left: auto; +margin-right: auto; +} +.floatLeft +{ +float:left; +margin:10px 10px 10px 0; +} +.floatRight +{ +float:right; +margin:10px 0 10px 10px; +} +p.figureHead +{ +font-size:100%; +text-align:center; +} +.figAnnotation +{ +font-size:80%; +position:relative; +margin: 0 auto; /* center this */ +} +.figTopLeft, .figBottomLeft +{ +float: left; +} +.figTop, .figBottom +{ +} +.figTopRight, .figBottomRight +{ +float: right; +} +.hangq +{ +text-indent: -0.35em; +} +.hangqq +{ +text-indent: -0.44em; +} +.hangqqq +{ +text-indent: -0.78em; +} +.figure p +{ +font-size:80%; +margin-top:0; +text-align:center; +} +img +{ +border-width:0; +} +p.smallprint,li.smallprint +{ +color:#666666; +font-size:80%; +} +span.parnum +{ +font-weight: bold; +} +.marginnote +{ +font-size:0.8em; +height:0; +left:1%; +line-height:1.2em; +position:absolute; +text-indent:0; +width:14%; +} +.pagenum +{ +display:inline; +font-size:70%; +font-style:normal; +margin:0; +padding:0; +position:absolute; +right:1%; +text-align:right; +} +a.noteref, a.pseudonoteref +{ +font-size: 80%; +text-decoration: none; +vertical-align: 0.25em; +} +.displayfootnote +{ +display: none; +} +div.footnotes +{ +font-size: 80%; +margin-top: 1em; +padding: 0; +} +hr.fnsep +{ +margin-left: 0; +margin-right: 0; +text-align: left; +width: 25%; +} +p.footnote +{ +margin-bottom: 0.5em; +margin-top: 0.5em; +} +p.footnote .label +{ +float:left; +width:2em; +height:12pt; +display:block; +} +/* Tables */ +tr, td, th +{ +vertical-align: top; +} +td.bottom +{ +vertical-align: bottom; +} +td.label, tr.label td +{ +font-weight: bold; +} +td.unit, tr.unit td +{ +font-style: italic; +} +td.sum +{ +padding-top: 2px; border-top: solid black 1px; +} +/* Poetry */ +.lgouter +{ +margin-left: auto; +margin-right: auto; +display:table; /* used to make the block shrink to the actual size */ +} +.lg +{ +text-align: left; +} +.lg h4, .lgouter h4 +{ +font-weight: normal; +} +.lg .linenum, .sp .linenum, .lgouter .linenum +{ +color:#777; +font-size:90%; +left: 16%; +margin:0; +position:absolute; +text-align:center; +text-indent:0; +top:auto; +width:1.75em; +} +p.line +{ +margin: 0 0% 0 0%; +} +span.hemistich /* invisible text to achieve visual effect of hemistich indentation. */ +{ +color: white; +} +.versenum +{ +font-weight:bold; +} +/* Drama */ +.speaker +{ +font-weight: bold; +margin-bottom: 0.4em; +} +.sp .line +{ +margin: 0 10%; +text-align: left; +} +/* End Drama */ +/* right aligned page number in table of contents */ +.tocPagenum, .flushright +{ +position: absolute; +right: 16%; +top: auto; +} +table.tocList +{ +width: 100%; +margin-left: auto; +margin-right: auto; +border-width: 0; +border-collapse: collapse; +} +td.tocPageNum, td.tocDivNum +{ +text-align: right; +width: 10%; +border-width: 0; +} +td.tocDivNum +{ +padding-left: 0; +padding-right: 0.5em; +} +td.tocPageNum +{ +padding-left: 0.5em; +padding-right: 0; +} +td.tocDivTitle +{ +width: auto; +} +span.corr, span.gap +{ +border-bottom:1px dotted red; +} +span.abbr +{ +border-bottom:1px dotted gray; +} +span.measure +{ +border-bottom:1px dotted green; +} +/* Font Styles and Colors */ +.ex +{ +letter-spacing: 0.2em; +} +.sc +{ +font-variant: small-caps; +} +.uc +{ +text-transform: uppercase; +} +.tt +{ +font-family: monospace; +} +.underline +{ +text-decoration: underline; +} +/* overline is actually a bit too high; overtilde is approximated with overline */ +.overline, .overtilde +{ +text-decoration: overline; +} +.rm +{ +font-style: normal; +} +.red +{ +color: red; +} +/* End Font Styles and Colors */ +hr +{ +clear:both; +height:1px; +margin-left:auto; +margin-right:auto; +margin-top:1em; +text-align:center; +width:45%; +} +.aligncenter, div.figure +{ +text-align:center; +} +h1, h2 +{ +font-size:1.44em; +line-height:1.5em; +} +h1.label, h2.label +{ +font-size:1.2em; +line-height:1.2em; +margin-bottom:0; +} +h5, h6 +{ +font-size:1em; +font-style:italic; +line-height:1em; +} +p +{ +text-indent:0; +} +p.firstlinecaps:first-line +{ +text-transform: uppercase; +} +p.dropcap:first-letter +{ +float: left; +clear: left; +margin: 0em 0.05em 0 0; +padding: 0px; +line-height: 0.8em; +font-size: 420%; +vertical-align:super; +} +.lg +{ +padding: .5em 0% .5em 0%; +} +p.quote,div.blockquote, div.argument +{ +font-size:0.9em; +line-height:1.2em; +margin:1.58em 5%; +} +.pagenum a, a.noteref:hover, a.hidden:hover, a.hidden +{ +text-decoration:none; +} +ul { list-style-type: none; } +.castlist, .castitem { list-style-type: none; } +/* External Links */ +.pglink, .catlink, .exlink, .wplink, .biblink +{ +background-repeat: no-repeat; +background-position: right center; +} +.pglink +{ +background-image: url(images/book.png); +padding-right: 18px; +} +.catlink +{ +background-image: url(images/card.png); +padding-right: 17px; +} +.exlink, .wplink, .biblink +{ +background-image: url(images/external.png); +padding-right: 13px; +} +.pglink:hover +{ +background-color: #DCFFDC; +} +.catlink:hover +{ +background-color: #FFFFDC; +} +.exlink:hover, .wplink:hover, .biblink:hover +{ +background-color: #FFDCDC; +} +body +{ +background: #FFFFFF; +font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, serif; +} +body, a.hidden +{ +color: black; +} +.titlePage +{ +color: #001FA4; +font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; +} +h1, h2, h3, h4, h5, h6, .h1, .h2, .h3, .h4 +{ +color: #001FA4; +font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; +} +p.byline +{ +font-style: italic; +margin-bottom: 2em; +} +.figureHead, .noteref, .pseudonoteref, .marginnote, p.legend, .versenum, .stage +{ +color: #001FA4; +} +.rightnote, .pagenum, .linenum, .pagenum a +{ +color: #AAAAAA; +} +a.hidden:hover, a.noteref:hover +{ +color: red; +} +p.dropcap:first-letter +{ +color: #001FA4; +font-weight: bold; +} +sub, sup +{ +line-height: 0; +} +.pagenum, .linenum +{ +speak: none; +} +</style> + +<style type="text/css"> +.index p +{ +text-indent: -2em; +margin-left: 2em; +} +.xd20e113width +{ +width:439px; +} +.xd20e119 +{ +text-align:center; +} +.xd20e124width +{ +width:481px; +} +.xd20e133width +{ +width:428px; +} +.xd20e825 +{ +font-style:italic; +} +.xd20e952width +{ +width:585px; +} +.xd20e958width +{ +width:582px; +} +.xd20e1099 +{ +text-indent:2em; +} +.xd20e1108 +{ +text-indent:4em; +} +.xd20e1154width +{ +width:590px; +} +.xd20e1160width +{ +width:586px; +} +.xd20e1238width +{ +width:430px; +} +.xd20e1244width +{ +width:582px; +} +.xd20e1374width +{ +width:586px; +} +.xd20e1382width +{ +width:589px; +} +.xd20e1422width +{ +width:598px; +} +.xd20e1429width +{ +width:585px; +} +.xd20e1528width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e1929width +{ +width:587px; +} +.xd20e1936width +{ +width:586px; +} +.xd20e2028width +{ +width:584px; +} +.xd20e2035width +{ +width:513px; +} +.xd20e2081width +{ +width:583px; +} +.xd20e2088width +{ +width:585px; +} +.xd20e2184width +{ +width:404px; +} +.xd20e2191width +{ +width:403px; +} +.xd20e2259width +{ +width:586px; +} +.xd20e2266width +{ +width:587px; +} +.xd20e2329width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e2353width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e2400width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e2463 +{ +text-indent:8em; +} +.xd20e2486width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e2543width +{ +width:483px; +} +.xd20e2731width +{ +width:588px; +} +.xd20e2736width +{ +width:586px; +} +.xd20e2787width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e2849width +{ +width:587px; +} +.xd20e2856width +{ +width:586px; +} +.xd20e2878width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e3049width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e3119width +{ +width:476px; +} +.xd20e3253width +{ +width:394px; +} +.xd20e3462 +{ +text-indent:6em; +} +.xd20e3657width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e3882 +{ +margin:0px auto; display:table;width:80%; +} +.xd20e3886 +{ +text-align:right; +} +.xd20e3889 +{ +vertical-align:middle; +} +.xd20e3891 +{ +vertical-align:middle; +} +</style> +</head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia, by +M. E. Hume-Griffith and A. Hume-Griffith + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia + An account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence + amongst the Women of the East + +Author: M. E. Hume-Griffith + A. Hume-Griffith + +Release Date: April 16, 2012 [EBook #39463] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEHIND THE VEIL IN PERSIA *** + + + + +Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net/ for Project +Gutenberg (This file was produced from images generously +made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + +<div class="front"> +<div class="div1 cover"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"></p> +<div class="figure xd20e113width"><img src="images/frontcover.jpg" alt= +"Original Front Cover." width="439" height="720"></div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1 frenchtitle"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first xd20e119">Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish +Arabia</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1 frontispiece"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"></p> +<div class="figure xd20e124width" id="p000"><img src="images/p000.jpg" +alt="The Author and her Husband in Bakhtian Costume" width="481" +height="720"> +<p class="figureHead">The Author and her Husband in Bakhtian +Costume</p> +<p class="first">Dr. Hume-Griffith’s dress is that of a chief, +and is of blue cloth lined with red flannel: and the lady’s is of +richly-brocaded velvet, and her head-coverings are of very pretty +muslin, embroidered with silk.</p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1 titlepage"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"></p> +<div class="figure xd20e133width"><img src="images/titlepage.gif" alt= +"Original Title Page." width="428" height="720"></div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="titlePage"> +<div class="docTitle"> +<div class="mainTitle">Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish +Arabia</div> +<div class="subTitle">An Account of an Englishwoman’s Eight +Years’ Residence Amongst the Women of the East</div> +</div> +<div class="byline">By<br> +<span class="docAuthor">M. E. Hume-Griffith</span><br> +<i>With Narratives of Experiences in Both Countries</i><br> +By<br> +<span class="docAuthor">A. Hume-Griffith</span>, M.D., D.P.H.<br> +With 37 Illustrations and a Map</div> +<div class="docImprint">Philadelphia<br> +J. B. Lippincott Company<br> +London: Seeley & Co. Ltd.<br> +<span class="docDate">1909</span></div> +</div> +<p><span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e175" href="#xd20e175" name= +"xd20e175">vi</a>]</span></p> +<div class="div1 imprint"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first xd20e119">Printed by <span class="sc">Ballantyne, +Hanson & Co.</span></p> +<p class="xd20e119">At the Ballantyne Press, Edinburgh <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="xd20e184" href="#xd20e184" name= +"xd20e184">v</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1 dedication"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first xd20e119">I DEDICATE<br> +THIS BOOK<br> +TO<br> +<i>MY HUSBAND</i><br> +IN LOVING REMEMBRANCE OF<br> +EIGHT HAPPY YEARS<br> +1900–1908 <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e203" href= +"#xd20e203" name="xd20e203">vii</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1 preface"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Preface</h2> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">I have endeavoured in this book to give some account +of that inner life of the East of which a traveller, however +keen-sighted and intelligent, seldom gains more than a passing glimpse. +In a residence of eight years in Persia and Turkish Arabia I have +become intimate with a large circle of friends whose life is passed +behind the veil, and as the wife of a medical missionary I have had +unusual opportunities of winning their confidence and becoming +acquainted with their thoughts. Of direct missionary effort I have said +very little, but I hope that the picture I have given may arouse +interest in lives spent amongst surroundings so different from our +own.</p> +<p>It is impossible for any one, however unversed in politics, who has +lived so long in Mesopotamia, not to be deeply interested in the future +of the country. While all Europe has been filled with astonishment at +the bloodless revolution in Turkey, we who have become familiar with +its inner life are touched with a feeling of admiration and something +akin to awe. Whatever misgivings there may be as to the permanence of +this reformation we hope and trust that it will endure.</p> +<p>Of one imminent change the effect is likely to be far-reaching. The +new government has secured the services of Sir William Wilcox as their +adviser <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e213" href="#xd20e213" name= +"xd20e213">viii</a>]</span>in great irrigation schemes. Irrigation in +Mesopotamia will change the whole face of the country; vast stretches +of desert will be transformed into a garden, ruined villages will be +restored, a new kingdom may be born, and Babylon possibly rebuilt. +Mosul, practically on the site of ancient Nineveh, will become easy of +access from Europe by means of the Baghdad railway and the restored +navigation of the Tigris. Its waste places may be filled with corn, and +the city be crowned once more with some of its ancient glory.</p> +<p>I should like to take this opportunity of thanking all those who +have kindly allowed me to use their photographs, amongst them the Rev. +C. H. Stileman, Dr. Saati of Mosul, and the Publishing Department of +the Church Missionary Society.</p> +<p>I am indebted to Professor Brown’s valuable book entitled +“A Year amongst the Persians” for information on the Babi +religion, and to Sir A. H. Layard’s classical work on the +excavations of Nineveh, which I have frequently had occasion to +consult.</p> +<p class="signed">M. E. H.-G. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e221" +href="#xd20e221" name="xd20e221">ix</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="toc" class="div1 contents"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Contents</h2> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first tocChapter">Part I</p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter I</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch1">Early Impressions</a> + <span class="tocPagenum">Page</span></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Start for Persia—Arrival at +Isphahan—Departure for Kerman—The Land of the Lion and the +Sun—A rainy day and its +effects—Eclipse—Locusts—Sand-storms—Land of +cats—Modes of conveyance—Inhabitants + <span class="tocPagenum">17</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter II</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2">Kerman</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Short history of Kerman—Its +overthrow—City of beggars—Story of the fort—The +jackal’s “tale of woe” +<span class="tocPagenum">30</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter III</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch3">Persian Industries</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Carpet-making—How to tell a good +carpet—How to make a carpet—The cry of the +children—Shawl +manufactures—Calico-printing—Brass-work—Agricultural +industries—Water disputes—Kanâts—Poppy +crops—Wheat and corn—Tobacco-growing + <span class="tocPagenum">40</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter IV</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch4">The Climate of Persia</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Resht, Teheran, Isphahan—Dryness of +atmosphere—Cellars—Roof life—Children attacked by +jackals—Chequered history of work in Kerman + <span class="tocPagenum">50</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter V</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch5">Holidays in Persia</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">How to ensure a prosperous +journey—Natanz—Astonishment of natives at sight of +hairpins—Pulivagoon—Mahoon—Aliabâd—Prince +under canvas—Visit from a Persian princess—A Persian deer +hunt <span class="tocPagenum">59</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter VI</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch6">Social Life in Persia</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Kerman—House-hunting and +building—White ants—Housekeeping in Kerman—Servant +question—Truth <i>v.</i> falsehood—Abdul +Fateh—Bagi—Recreations—Some exciting +rides—Persian etiquette—Dinner at the governor’s + <span class="tocPagenum">71</span> +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e300" href="#xd20e300" name= +"xd20e300">x</a>]</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter VII</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch7">The Women of Persia</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Home Life—Anderoon, women’s +quarters—Jealousy in the anderoon—Anderoon of Khan Baba +Khan—Two days in an anderoon—H.R.H. Princess +Hamadané Sultané—Visit to the anderoon of H.R.H. +the Zil-es-Sultan <span class= +"tocPagenum">84</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter VIII</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch8">More About Persian Women</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Costumes—Wedding festivities—Wedding +dinner—Kindness of Persian husbands—Story of +brutality—Divorce—Aids to beauty—Degradation and +cruelty of women <span class= +"tocPagenum">95</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter IX</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch9">Some Points in the Moslem +Faith</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Fasts and feasts—Seyyids, Dervishes, +Mullahs—Legends of the drowning mullah, and the yard-square hole + <span class="tocPagenum">106</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter X</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch10">Other Religious Sects</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">The Báb and Babism—Short sketch of +life of the Báb—His imprisonment and +execution—<i>Parsees</i>, or Zoroastrians—Persecutions of +Parsees in seventh century—Sacred writings of Parsees, +Zendavesta—Fire-worshipping—Fire temples—Holy +fire—Parsee wedding—Costume of women—Death +customs—Burial customs <span class= +"tocPagenum">116</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XI</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch11">Desert Delights</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Songs of the desert—Sunsets, sunrises, +mirages—Illness in the desert—Mehman khanehs, +caravanserais—Chappa khanehs—Lost in the desert—Its +cruelties and sadness <span class= +"tocPagenum">130</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XII</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch12">Persian Medical Missions</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">The need of them—Work in +Isphahan—The “little devil” transformed into a +boy—Amputation—Brothers in adversity—H.R.H. +Zil-es-Sultan as a patient—Fanaticism overcome + <span class="tocPagenum">140</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XIII</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch13">Pioneer Medical Mission Work in +Kerman</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Waiting for drugs and instruments—Native +assistant proves a broken reed—First operation in Kerman—An +anxious moment—Success—Doctrine of “savab” +convenient to the Moslem—Fanaticism tempered with +prudence—Opium slaves—Persian therapeutics—Persian +quacks and their methods—Sure way of curing cancer—Hysteria + <span class="tocPagenum">151</span> +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e383" href="#xd20e383" name= +"xd20e383">xi</a>]</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XIV</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch14">Medical Mission Work in +Yezd</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">A hospital—A friendly governor—A +suspicious case—Superstition—The opium habit—A case +of cataract—We return to England +<span class="tocPagenum">164</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Part II</p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter I</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.1">The City of Nineveh</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">The fast of Jonah—The bridge of +boats—Traditions as to ancient history of Mosul—Elkos, +birthplace of Nahum the prophet—Shurgât—Climate of +Mosul—Cultivation and industries—Importance of Mosul + <span class="tocPagenum">173</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter II</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.2">The People of Mosul</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument"> +Population—Moslems—Christians—Chaldeans—Nestorians—Jacobites—Arabs—Kurds—Jews—Yezidees—Recreations—Warfare +of the slingers—Hammam Ali—The recreation ground of Mosul +men and women <span class= +"tocPagenum">186</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter III</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.3">The River Tigris</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Ancient historical interest—Garden of +Eden—Origin of name +unknown—Swiftness—Sources—Navigation—Keleqs—Bathing, +fishing, washing—Crossing rivers +<span class="tocPagenum">198</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter IV</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.4">The Children of Mosul</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Spoiling process—Despair of the +parents—The “god” of the hareem—Death by +burning—Festivities at birth of boy—Cradles and cradle +songs—School life—Feast in honour of a boy having read the +Koran through—“Only a girl”—Girl +life—Girl victims of Naseeb—Marriage + <span class="tocPagenum">208</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter V</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.5">The Moslem Women of +Mosul</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Beauty behind the veil—Types of +beauty—My dear old friend of 110 years of age—Aids to +beauty described—Pretty children—Beauty tainted with +sin—Imprisonment of women—Peeps into some +hareems—Warm receptions—A visit from the ladies of a select +hareem—Love the magic key to open hearts +<span class="tocPagenum">219</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter VI</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.4">Moslem Family Life</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">No home life—Women equal with the +beasts—Evils of divorce—Naseeb—The will of +God—Truth and falsehood—Honesty prevalent—A thief +caught—Swearing and +anti-swearing—Fighting—Hair-tearing and +biting—Hammam, the ladies’ club +<span class="tocPagenum">231</span> <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"xd20e465" href="#xd20e465" name="xd20e465">xii</a>]</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter VII</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.6">Customs of Mosul</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Wedding ceremonies—Great expense to +parents—Method of procedure—Funeral customs—Customs +at birth—Some other customs <span class= +"tocPagenum">244</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter VIII</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.7">Dreams and Visions</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Ezekiel’s vision by the river +Chebar—Our vision by the river Khabour—Rivers +identical—“A wheel within a wheel”—Babylonish +emblem of divinity—Origin of the cherubim—Dream of a woman +suffering from cataract—Effect of dream on her +character—Watch and chain recovered by means of a +“faked” dream—Illustration of the doctrine of Kismet +or Naseeb—“Ghosts” in our compound—Atmosphere +of ghosts bad for fowls <span class= +"tocPagenum">257</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter IX</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.9">Manners and Superstitions in +Mosul</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Characteristics of inhabitants of +Mosul—Social habits—Love of drink—An effectual +cure—Gambling—Tel Kaif: a story of Uncle Goro—The +Angel of Death, and other titles—Difficulties over name and +age—Some superstitions—Effect of scent on women—Birds +of good omen—Thieves—Sheep-killing—Sheikh +Matti—An angel’s visit—Medical +superstitions—Cure for hydrophobia +<span class="tocPagenum">269</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter X</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.10">The Yezidees</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Gratitude to the +English—Persecutions—“Devil-worshippers”—Sun +and fire worship—Priesthood—A visit to Sheikh +Âdi—Peacock wands—A sacred shrine + <span class="tocPagenum">284</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XI</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.11">Travelling in the +Desert</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Monotony of desert travelling—A puppy and +a kitten tragedy—Accident by the river Euphrates—Riots in +Mosul—Robberies and murder excited by love of gold + <span class="tocPagenum">294</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XII</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.12">The Pleasures of Desert +Travelling</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Desert blossoms as a rose—Flowers of the +desert—Arabs, their occupation and women—Arab +dancing—Robbers of the desert—An army of 10,000—Five +hundred armed men—False alarms—Lost in the +desert—Delights and disturbances of travelling + <span class="tocPagenum">307</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XIII</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.13">Pioneer Medical Mission Work in +Mosul (Nineveh)</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Winning the confidence of the +people—Native surgery—Difficulties to be +overcome—Backward patients—Encouraging work—Prevalent +diseases—Lunatics—Possible future of Mesopotamia + <span class="tocPagenum">317</span> +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e545" href="#xd20e545" name= +"xd20e545">xiii</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1 contents"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">List of Illustrations</h2> +<ul> +<li> <span class="tocPagenum">Page</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p000">The Author and her Husband in +Bakhtian Costume</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum"><i>Frontispiece</i></span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p026-1">Persian Conveyances</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">26</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p026-2">A Halt for Lunch</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">26</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p046-1">A Novel Drying Ground</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">46</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p046-2">Persian Mode of +Irrigation</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">46</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p054-1">A “Chimney” of +Yezd</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">54</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p054-2">A Korsi Or Heating +Contrivance</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">54</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p072-1">House-building in +Persia</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">72</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p072-2">Persian Shops</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">72</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p076-1">Scene from the Roof of our House +at Kerman</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">76</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p076-2">A Street in Kerman</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">76</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p086">The Mosque Gate, City of +Kerman</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">86</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p132-1">A Mountain Pass</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">132</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p132-2">A Caravanserai</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">132</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p142-1">A Very Ancient Bridge</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">142</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p142-2">A Typical Street in +Baghdad</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">142</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p148-1">Using the X Rays in Julfa +Hospital</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">148</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p148-2">A Ward in the Julfa +Hospital</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">148</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p158-1">Opium Making</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">158</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p158-2">The Rich Beggar</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">158</span></li> +<li><span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e697" href="#xd20e697" name= +"xd20e697">xiv</a>]</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p166-1">Types of Persian Jews</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">166</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p166-2">The Water Square</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">166</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p174">Our Home in Nineveh</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">174</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p176">A Bridge of Boats</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">176</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p180">The Bridge of Boats Over the +Frozen Tigris</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">180</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p188">A Picnic Party</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">188</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p192">Mutrar Paulus, Syrian Roman +Catholic Bishop</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">192</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p210-1">Dr. Hume-Griffith’s Study +in Mosul</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">210</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p210-2">Our Drawing-room in +Julfa</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">210</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p216">A Group of Persian +Girls</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">216</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p222-1">The Camera in Mosul</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">222</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p222-2">Tired of Play at a +Picnic</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">222</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p224">An Itinerant Cook preparing +Kabobs</a></span> <span class= +"tocPagenum">224</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p240">Bread-making</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">240</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p246">A Mosul Bride</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">246</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p259">A Wonderful Vision</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">259</span></li> +<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p296">Travelling in Winter</a></span> + <span class="tocPagenum">296</span></li> +</ul> +<p><span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb15" href="#pb15" name= +"pb15">15</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="body"> +<div class="div0 part"> +<h2 class="main">Part I</h2> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter xd20e825"> +<p class="line">“So, after the sore torments of the route,</p> +<p class="line">Toothache and headache, and the ache of mind,</p> +<p class="line">And huddled sleep and smarting wakefulness,</p> +<p class="line">And night and day, and hunger sick at food,</p> +<p class="line">And twenty-fold relays, and packages</p> +<p class="line">To be unlocked, and passports to be found,</p> +<p class="line">And heavy well-kept landscape—we are glad</p> +<p class="line">Because we entered (Persia) in the Sun.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">D. G. Rossetti.</span></p> +</div> +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb17" href="#pb17" name= +"pb17">17</a>]</span> +<div id="ch1" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="super">Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia</h2> +<h2 class="label">Chapter I</h2> +<h2 class="main">Early Impressions</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Start for Persia—Arrival at +Isphahan—Departure for Kerman—The Land of the Lion and the +Sun—A rainy day and its +effects—Eclipse—Locusts—Sand-storms—Land of +cats—Modes of conveyance—Inhabitants.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“’Tis the sight of a lifetime to behold</p> +<p class="line">The great shorn sun as you see it now</p> +<p class="line">Across eight miles of undulant gold</p> +<p class="line">That widens landward, weltered and rolled</p> +<p class="line">With patches of shadow and crimson stains.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Lowell.</span></p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Shadow maker, shadow slayer, arrowing light from +clime to clime.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Lord Tennyson.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Our life in Persia extended over a period of three +years, dating from the spring of 1900 to that of 1903.</p> +<p>It was with great joy I heard the news, early in February of 1900, +that my husband had been appointed by the Church Missionary Society to +open medical work in Kerman, and that we were to start almost at once. +Within a month we were married, had bought our outfit, bid sorrowful +farewells to our relations and friends, and started for the romantic +land of Persia. From London to Isphahan took us just nine weeks, as we +were delayed by illness for some weeks both in Russia and in the +Persian Desert. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb18" href="#pb18" name= +"pb18">18</a>]</span>However, on 9th May we entered the beautiful city +of Isphahan, to find a warm welcome awaiting us from friends there. +This place will always have a very warm corner in my heart, for it was +there we made our first home. The doctor in charge of the work at Julfa +(the Christian quarter of Isphahan) having left on furlough, my husband +was asked to remain there till his return, which he accordingly did. It +was not till the following spring that we left for Kerman. Thus our +first impressions of this land of light and darkness were gathered from +Isphahan and its neighbourhood. There is no after time so full of +interest to those who live abroad as the first year spent in a new life +and country, gleaning fresh ideas, seeing new sights, gaining +experiences often dearly bought, but which must be purchased ere the +newcomer can settle down to life in the East with any comfort or peace +of mind.</p> +<p>The native servants love to obtain posts with fresh comers, knowing +that for the first few months, at any rate, they will have an +exceedingly good time, being able to make a huge <i>medâqal</i> +(profit) from the unsuspecting Feringhi. I sigh to think of the many +ways in which we were cheated those first few months of our life in +Persia, but no one breathed a word to us, realising that our eyes would +be opened only too soon, and that experience was the most effectual +teacher. It is a strange fact that all housekeepers new to the land +think their servants are perfect till they find out, perhaps when too +late, their foolish delusion.</p> +<p>From the very first my heart went out in affection to the dear +Moslem women, and now, after <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb19" href= +"#pb19" name="pb19">19</a>]</span>eight years spent amongst them, I can +truly say that my love has deepened, and my sympathies become enlarged, +for these charming but, alas, too often unhappy followers of +Mohammed.</p> +<p>Our knowledge of Persia extends especially to three cities, in each +of which we spent a year. Isphahan, as we have seen, was our first +home, then came a year at Kerman, a distance of some 500 miles +separating the two cities. Finally we spent a very happy year at Yezd, +that City of Sand, situated midway between Isphahan and Kerman. Of each +of these cities we shall hear more in other chapters.</p> +<p>Persia has well been called the Land of the Lion and the Sun. +Certainly the latter name is well deserved, for the sun is almost +always shining, and without the brilliant sunshine we should hardly +recognise it as the land of Persia.</p> +<p>The symbol of the Lion and the Sun originated in the days when the +Zoroastrians were the inhabitants of the land. The Sun, being the +emblem of the Fire Worshippers, was taken as their national badge. The +Lion was added later because Ali, the grandson of Mohammed, was called +“The Lion of God.” The woman’s face in the Sun was +inserted some years later by one of the Persian kings as a tribute to +his favourite wife.</p> +<p>The sunshine of Persia forms one of its greatest attractions. Even +in winter the dull, cloudy days are few and far between. When by chance +a rainy day does come, the people are so surprised and taken aback that +they seem paralysed for the time being, and are unable to go about +their usual business. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb20" href="#pb20" +name="pb20">20</a>]</span></p> +<p>The remembrance of our first experience of a rainy day still lingers +in my memory. We had awakened one morning much later than usual to find +the sky clouded over and the rain coming down in torrents. I was +surprised to find that we had not been called as usual, but imagined +the servants had forgotten to do so. Upon entering the dining-room, +what was my surprise to find no preparations for a meal. Calling the +servant, I asked him why breakfast was not ready. At this he seemed +quite hurt, as he answered, “But, Khanum (lady), it is +raining!” This fact was to his mind quite sufficient reason for +everything. As long as the rain lasted the servants could be prevailed +upon to do nothing except crouch over the fire and shiver! The moment +the rain ceased and the sun once more shone out they resumed their +normal state.</p> +<p>This constant sunshine is a great boon to the beggars and poor, +helping to make life endurable for them; they need very little +clothing, as a rule, to enable them to keep warm. So long as they can +lie and bask in the sunshine, picking up bread enough to sustain life, +they trouble very little about working or earning money.</p> +<p>There is only one place where there is very little sunshine, and +that is in the hearts and lives of the people. Especially, perhaps, is +this true in the case of the women of the land, as we shall see +presently.</p> +<p>A Persian gentleman once visited England, and on his return to his +native country was questioned by his friends as to which was the better +land to live in. His reply was to the effect that in England the houses +were grander, the scenery more beautiful, <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb21" href="#pb21" name="pb21">21</a>]</span>but that there was no +sunshine! This lack, to his mind, far outweighed all the other +advantages which might<a id="xd20e913" name="xd20e913"></a> belong to +England, and his friends decided that, after all, Persia was the better +country to live in.</p> +<p>When there happens to be a cloudy day or night in summer, the result +is anything but cooling, for the air becomes terribly oppressive, it is +almost impossible to breathe, and during the night it is quite useless +to think of or hope for sleep till the clouds have rolled away.</p> +<p>The natives are very much alarmed when an eclipse of the sun takes +place, as they are afraid they are going to lose their benefactor. +Once, while we were in Yezd, the sun was eclipsed. Suddenly hundreds of +guns and cannons were fired off from all parts of the town. We ran out +to see what had happened, and were met by our frightened servants +carrying their guns, who told us that an enormous fish was trying to +swallow the sun, and that they hoped, by making a terrific noise, to +frighten it away! Great was their joy and relief when the shadow began +to pass from the sun.</p> +<p>Sand-storms are terrible trials in Persia. Quite suddenly, without +any warning, the light disappears, clouds upon clouds of dust come +rushing in. Before you have time to shut all the doors and windows, +everything in the house is covered with a fine white dust. Sand-storms +are disagreeable and trying to the patience when they find you in the +house, but when you are caught in a heavy sand-storm out in the desert, +it is often a source of great danger. If riding, the only possible +thing to do is to dismount, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb22" href= +"#pb22" name="pb22">22</a>]</span>cover your head and face as well as +possible, turn your back to the storm, and hope for the best.</p> +<p>At other times the light is obliterated in the daytime by a swarm of +locusts passing overhead. Till I saw this myself I could hardly believe +it was possible for these little insects to obscure the light of the +sun as they did. One day in Kerman we were just ready to set off for a +ride, when suddenly the light vanished, and I thought a fearful +thunderstorm was about to burst upon us. On looking up we saw what +appeared to be a huge black cloud hovering overhead: presently this +descended and resolved itself into myriads of flying insects. As some +fell to the earth we found them to be locusts from two to three inches +long. The natives were dreadfully alarmed lest they should settle on +their fields, as it was springtime, and the ground was already green +with promise of harvest. Had the locusts settled, it would have meant +ruin and starvation to many. Fortunately, they passed over that +time.</p> +<p>We have seen that Persia is a land of sunshine, we must not forget +that it is also a land of cats.</p> +<p>I was amused the other day to see how differently two people can see +the same thing. In the course of a conversation with a friend who was +for some years in Persia, I asked him if he did not admire the Persian +cats very much. “Never saw one,” was his answer, and he +maintained that the whole time he was in Persia he never saw a +long-haired cat. My experience was quite the reverse, for I hardly +remember ever seeing an ordinary short-haired one during the three +years we were in Persia. We had <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb23" +href="#pb23" name="pb23">23</a>]</span>some beautiful white ones, but +they were very delicate, and generally came to an untimely end. We +tried to take one to Kerman, but it met with a sad death when only half +way there.</p> +<p>Cats are exported on quite a large scale to India and other places. +They are taken to the coast by horse-dealers, who tether them in much +the same way as they do their horses.</p> +<p>One of the late Shahs is said to have been very devoted to cats, and +always took one with him when he travelled, a special baggage animal +being reserved for the cage of this favourite pet.</p> +<p>There are many ways of journeying in Persia, and the would-be +traveller can take his choice according to his own ideas of comfort and +convenience. To my mind the most pleasant way of all is to have your +own horses for riding, and thus be able to set your own pace and not +have to be bound down to the slow, wearying, never-changing rate of the +caravan.</p> +<p>For those who do not care for, or are not strong enough for riding, +there are many conveyances. Here, again, the traveller has quite a +large choice of good things. First of all there is the +“kajâvah.” This consists of two cage-like boxes, +suspended one on each side of the animal: the interior of these boxes +sometimes boasts of a little low seat, but as a rule is innocent of any +such luxury. Two people of about the same weight must sit on each side, +or the result is disastrous. I remember once being with a large +caravan. In one of these kajâvahs was travelling a Government +official and his wife. He was very tiny, she was quite the reverse, the +result being <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb24" href="#pb24" name= +"pb24">24</a>]</span>that the little man was generally up in the air +while the opposite side of the kajâvah was weighed down nearly to +the ground. They tried all manner of experiments in their endeavour to +strike the balance, gathering stones and depositing them in the lighter +side, tying bags of fuel, &c., to the outside of the kajâvah, +but all of no avail. At last, in disgust and anger, the woman jumped +out without giving her husband any warning: the result to onlookers was +ludicrous! The wife refused all that day again to enter the +kajâvah, preferring to walk, till one of the muleteers offered +her a seat on the top of one of the baggage mules. The little man was +soon balanced with stones picked up by the wayside, and travelled for +the rest of that day in peace and comfort. At the end of the stage, +however, his wife would not speak to him or cook his dinner for him! +and the man (who was quite the reverse of an ordinary Moslem man) came +to one of my husband’s assistants, begging him to act as +mediator. In this case the man and woman seem to have exchanged places +as regards character, the wife being decidedly the master, and he, poor +man, looked as if he hardly dared call his soul his own. Even amongst +Moslems there doubtless are some strong-minded women.</p> +<p>I have travelled many miles in one of these kajâvahs, finding +them very comfortable and restful, after riding for hours. My husband +had a pair specially made for me, with seats inside, and nicely +cushioned: these always went with us on our journeys in Persia, so +that, when I tired of riding, I could rest awhile. While I was not +using them <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb25" href="#pb25" name= +"pb25">25</a>]</span>our servants had to take my place, a favour they +did not always appreciate. When travelling by night, I have slept for +hours at a stretch in one of these kajâvahs, the steady measured +walk of the mule favouring slumber. Sometimes, however, the monotony is +broken by the mule suddenly dropping on to its front knees, and you +find yourself deposited on the ground, shot out like an arrow from its +bow.</p> +<p>If this form of conveyance does not appeal to the traveller then +there is the “takhtiravan.” This is a most luxurious mode +of conveyance, and is, as a rule, only used by invalids or high-class +Moslem ladies. It consists of a box, with doors and windows, measuring +about six or seven feet by four in length and five in height. The top +is covered with heavy felt or some material which will keep out the sun +or the rain, according to which season of the year you are travelling +in. Inside is placed a mattress with plenty of cushions: the whole is +built on shafts which are slung between two mules, one in front and one +behind. The motion is rather like that of a rolling ship, and, unless +the occupant is a good sailor, the experience is not always a pleasant +one. I once travelled for a week in one of these conveyances, and on +arriving at our destination found my back was a mass of bruises. The +takhtiravan is very good for night travelling, as you can lie flat down +and sleep, provided the animals keep in step and the road is good. On +an uneven road the sensation is not too comfortable.</p> +<p>We once had a never-to-be-forgotten week of torture in a springless +wagon; it really was too <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb26" href= +"#pb26" name="pb26">26</a>]</span>terrible. Oh, the jolting, the +jarring, and the bone shaking! Each day the misery increased, till +every bone in our bodies was bruised and aching, and every nerve racked +to its utmost. I should not recommend this mode of conveyance to any +one contemplating a journey in Persia. When we first went to the Land +of the Lion and the Sun, carriages were very scarce and very expensive +south of Teheran. Now they are becoming much more generally used, at +any rate as far as Isphahan. When we left Kerman in 1902 we drove to +Yezd in a carriage kindly lent to us by one of the Kerman native +gentlemen. Albeit the wheels came off occasionally and various other +accidents took place, still it was a very luxurious way of travelling, +comparatively speaking. Then, when we finally left Persia in 1903, we +drove from Isphahan to Teheran in a private carriage belonging to a +friend who lent it to us for the journey; so that I fully expect by now +that travelling by carriage has become quite the ordinary mode of +journeying in Persia.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e952width" id="p026-1"><img src= +"images/p026-1.jpg" alt="Persian Conveyances" width="585" height="380"> +<p class="figureHead">Persian Conveyances</p> +<p class="first">The takhtiravan is a slow but comfortable conveyance +for travelling in. It is a species of sedan-chair, slung on two long +poles; to these shafts mules are harnessed, one in front and the other +behind. The Kajâvahs are a much less luxurious mode of +travelling. They consist of two cage-like boxes slung one on each side +of the mule. If the animal is sure-footed and the balance of the boxes +maintained, the sensation of riding in them is not unpleasant.</p> +</div> +<div class="figure xd20e958width" id="p026-2"><img src= +"images/p026-2.jpg" alt="A Halt for Lunch" width="582" height="402"> +<p class="figureHead">A Halt for Lunch</p> +<p class="first">The midday break in the day’s march is always +welcome and refreshing, especially when it is possible to rest in the +luxury of shade.</p> +</div> +<p>The last part of that drive into Teheran has left a vivid +remembrance on my mind. It was a Saturday, and we were very desirous of +reaching Teheran that night, otherwise it meant spending Sunday at a +village near the city, as we did not like travelling on that day. So we +determined to push on at all costs. To add to our difficulties it began +to pour with rain soon after starting in the morning, and continued a +steady drench the whole day. Long before we reached the end of our +stage we were both wet through to the skin. Sunset found us still some +twenty miles out of Teheran, and, the horses beginning <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb27" href="#pb27" name="pb27">27</a>]</span>to show +signs of fatigue, we perforce had to rest them for a while. When we +were within five miles or so of the city, we found the road all +flooded, and it was difficult to know where the road ended and the +ditch began which ran parallel to the road on both sides. It was by +then pitch dark, so there was nothing to be done but let the horses +take their own way, hoping their instincts would lead them and us +safely. All went well till we were within sight of the lights of +Teheran, when suddenly smash went the carriage, and down fell the +horses into a deep ditch. One poor horse (our own, which we were taking +to Teheran to sell) never moved, and we thought he was dead. I jumped +down from the dogcart and landed in the ditch nearly up to my waist in +water! The lamps had gone out, and we were in total darkness. We called +and called for help but no one came, so my husband and I walked on a +little to see if we could find any one to help, leaving the horses and +carriage in charge of the driver, who was half beside himself with +fear.</p> +<p>Presently we came across a little wayside coffee-house, and found +some men who were willing to go and help extricate the poor horses from +their dangerous position, while we walked on to the gate of the city +and waited in the porter’s lodge. After about an hour the +carriage came along, the horses looking none the worse for their +escapade. Our kind friends of the American Mission were waiting up, and +had prepared hot baths and hot drinks for us, knowing that if we did +arrive that night at all we should be in a terrible plight. Thanks to +their <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb28" href="#pb28" name= +"pb28">28</a>]</span>kindness and thoughtfulness, we suffered no harm +from our damp and adventurous drive.</p> +<p>The inhabitants of Persia are: Moslems, the Persians of to-day; +Zoroastrians (Parsees), the Persians of yesterday; Armenians, and Jews. +Of the two former I will not speak now, as we shall make their +acquaintance a little later. A few words will suffice for Armenians and +Jews. The former were brought from Julfa in Armenia many years ago by +some former Shah on account of their industry and workmanship. He gave +them a suburb of Isphahan to live in, and very soon a large Armenian +settlement sprang up. Julfa of Persia is about three miles from +Isphahan. Here all the Armenians live, and until quite lately the +Europeans also, as it was not considered safe for them to reside in +Isphahan. However, of late years this is all changed, most of the +Europeans now having houses in Isphahan.</p> +<p>The Armenians are very clever workmen in all crafts and trades. Also +to their shame be it said that they are the wine and spirit makers for +the Isphahanis. A true Moslem is not allowed to make or drink wine. +Thanks to the Armenians, however, the temptation is ever at hand ready +for him, with plenty of opportunities afforded him of indulging in +secret.</p> +<p>The Armenians make very good assistants for hospital work, some of +them turning out quite good doctors. One young fellow was with my +husband for two years. After we left he went to India, where he took a +medical course, and is now a fully qualified doctor practising in +India. They have plenty of “push” in them, and once they +make <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb29" href="#pb29" name= +"pb29">29</a>]</span>up their minds to get on, no obstacle is too great +for them to overcome.</p> +<p>The Jews of Persia are a miserably poor, degraded class of people. +Their lot is a very hard one; despised and oppressed by the Moslems, +hated and cursed by all, their life is not enviable. They are to be +found everywhere, in Isphahan, Yezd, Kerman, and many other cities. My +heart often ached for these poor, wretched people as they flocked to +the dispensaries. Fortunately for them, there is a Mission amongst the +Jews in Persia which helps in no small way to brighten the lives of the +poor, downtrodden people.</p> +<p>We have taken a fleeting glance at the Land of the Lion and the Sun; +we must now try and become more intimately acquainted with some of its +towns and their inhabitants. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb30" href= +"#pb30" name="pb30">30</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch2" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter II</h2> +<h2 class="main">Kerman</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Short history of Kerman—Its overthrow—City +of beggars—Story of the fort—The jackal’s “tale +of woe.”</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“A little red worm—the +gard’ner’s special dread.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">V. Fane.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The first view we had of Kerman was a very picturesque +one. We had been travelling for about twenty days, and on Easter Eve +reached a lovely garden some four or five hours’ ride from +Kerman, and here we decided to stay for Easter Day. Early on Monday +morning we started for the last stage of our journey. Just as the sun +was rising we came to the top of a hill, and there away in the distance +lay the city of Kerman, the city towards which our hopes and thoughts +had been tending for so long, as it was the goal to which we had been +pressing for the past twelve months, and which we fondly hoped was to +have been our home for many years; but God ordered otherwise.</p> +<p>Kerman is a very interesting old city, having passed through many +vicissitudes and seen many changes during its varied and chequered +history. It is also a very pretty place, especially as seen from a +short distance, surrounded on three sides by the eternal mountains, +with their ever-changing shades and shadows, and forming a magnificent +background <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb31" href="#pb31" name= +"pb31">31</a>]</span>to the city nestling at their feet. On the fourth +side the desert stretches away to Yezd and Isphahan.</p> +<p>Kerman is said to have derived its name from a Persian word Kerm, +meaning a worm, and the legend connected with it is as follows. The +princess who founded the city was one day walking with her followers +over the site of the future town, and plucked an apple from a tree: +upon eating it she found to her disgust and annoyance a worm at its +core. As she threw it away in anger, she declared that the new city +should be called Kerm-an, a worm. Kerman is certainly a very ancient +city: the inhabitants claim that it was a large town in the time of +Solomon. Whether this is so I do not know. The first time it is +mentioned in history is by Herodotus. Alexander is said to have marched +his army through Kerman on his way to India, and Cyrus passed that way +on his return from India. Perhaps few places have suffered more at the +hands of invaders than Kerman. It has been sacked at least six times, +and in 1794 the city was almost entirely destroyed by Agha Mohammed +Khan. The city was bravely defended by the prince-governor, who was one +of the last of the Zend dynasty; he sustained a long and severe siege, +till two-thirds of his troops had perished from starvation, and then +the city was betrayed treacherously into the hands of the enemy and its +brave defenders obliged to flee, only to meet with a cruel death some +two years later from the hands of the same oppressor. This incarnation +of cruelty, Agha Mohammed Khan, gave the city over to the will of his +soldiers, who resembled their leader in cruelty and barbarity. There +was no compassion in his heart, and he would <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb32" href="#pb32" name="pb32">32</a>]</span>listen +to none of the entreaties of the unfortunate inhabitants for mercy, nor +would he withdraw his troops from the city till he had received a gift +of twenty thousand pairs of human eyes. When these were brought to him, +he insisted on counting them over himself to see if the number was +correct, and is reported to have said to the trembling man who carried +the baskets piled high with these awful trophies: “It is a good +thing the number is correct; if it had not been, <i>your</i> eyes would +have gone to make up the exact number.” The city never recovered +from this terrible blow, and to-day Kerman is a byword among Persians +for its poverty and extraordinary number of beggars. If you were to +ride through the bazaars you would be struck by the tremendous number +of beggars, all holding out their hands, beseeching you for the love of +God to give them a copper.</p> +<p>There is a quaint saying among the beggars which one hears very +often; it is as follows:—</p> +<div lang="fa-latn" class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Khuda guft, ‘Beddeh,’</p> +<p class="line">Shaitan guft, ‘Neddeh’”</p> +</div> +<p class="first">(God says, “Give”; Satan says, +“Don’t give”).</p> +<p>Just outside Kerman are the remains of two old fortresses, the +larger of which is called the <i>Galah i Doukhta</i>, or the Fort of +the Maiden, doubtless on account of the story connected with it.</p> +<p>These fortresses were built on small hills, and so alike are they in +formation and colour to the soil that it is difficult to see where the +castle begins and the hill ends. Between these two old fortresses lie +the ruins of ancient Kerman. This city was the last <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb33" href="#pb33" name="pb33">33</a>]</span>to fall +under the Moslem sway in its invasion of Persia, and the legend +connected with it is interesting.</p> +<p>The city was surrounded on all hands by the Moslem invaders, and it +seemed as if the enemy would be obliged to retreat, as its defenders +had withdrawn themselves into the castles or fortresses already +mentioned. These had been well provisioned for a long siege in case of +need, and also were connected with the outer world by means of +underground passages, known only to those in the castles. All, perhaps, +might have gone well but for the fact that there lived in the fortress +a beautiful woman—alas! as treacherous as beautiful. She was the +idolised daughter of the king of the castle; nothing was too good for +this loved and spoilt beauty. Her father showered gifts upon +her—gold, jewellery, silks, all were hers; and it is said that +just before the siege began her father had planned and designed a +beautiful garden for her, such as never had been seen before.</p> +<p>Being so loved and such a favourite of all, she was allowed to roam +at will within the castle walls, and often beguiled the time by +watching the besiegers who lay far below in the plain. One day her +attention was attracted by a handsome Arab general, who always seemed +to be foremost in all that was going on, leading his men into the most +dangerous and exposed parts. Where the arrows fell fastest and most +often, there this Arab prince was sure to be seen, always brave and +courageous. His bravery, added to his good looks, so appealed to this +spoilt and petted woman that she immediately fell in love <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb34" href="#pb34" name="pb34">34</a>]</span>with +him. Day by day this love increased, till her whole soul was afire with +all the abandon of an Eastern love, and she felt that nothing could or +should keep her from her hero. “Love” soon found means of +communicating with the object of its affection, for love is stronger +than barred or barricaded fortresses. By some means, known only to +herself and one other, she gave this Arab to understand that if only he +would promise to marry her, she would deliver the castle into his +hands.</p> +<p>The Eastern as well as the Western agree that “All is fair in +love and war,” so this general of the East consented to this +plan, and agreed to accept victory at the hands of treachery.</p> +<p>Accordingly, all was arranged satisfactorily to both parties, and +one dark, moonless night the deed was done. The lady of the castle, the +idolised and beloved of all, became the betrayer of her people. After +all had retired to rest that night, and the sentinels were lost in the +dense darkness, she stealthily crept out of the castle, safely passed +the sleeping men supposed to be on guard, and opened the secret gate to +her lover and his soldiers—the enemies of her father and her +country. A terrible massacre ensued, in which the father was slain, +fortunately dying without the knowledge of his daughter’s base +action. The prince-general had given strict orders to his men that on +no account was the girl to be touched during the attack on the castle, +but that she was to be conducted to a place of safety till all was +over. At last, in the early hours of the morning, the general had time +to think of his ward.</p> +<p>Tired out with his work of bloodshed and <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb35" href="#pb35" name= +"pb35">35</a>]</span>slaughter, but rejoicing in his unexpected +victory, he sent for the girl to find out the reason of her willingness +to thus betray her own people and land into the hands of the enemy. +When brought into his presence he was amazed at the beauty and +loveliness of the girl before him, and his heart went out in great love +and admiration towards her. She, still thinking only of her own wicked +infatuation, was congratulating herself that <i>now</i> her +heart’s desire was to be granted her, and she would soon become +the wife of the man so long idealised and idolised. But alas! for her +fair hopes.</p> +<p>The general, notwithstanding her beauty, desired to find out what +her motive was for doing as she had done, and so he plied her with +questions. “Was she very unhappy?” “Was her father +very cruel to her?” or “Had she done this to avenge herself +for some wrong?” To all these she replied in the negative. +“Then, in the name of wonder, <i>what</i> was your reason for +sacrificing father, home, country and all?” cried the general. +“For love of you,” answered the now frightened girl, and +she then told him how kind her father had been to her, how he had done +all in his power to make her happy, and how nothing was ever denied her +that he could possibly procure, but assured him that all this was as +nothing to her compared to the great love which she felt towards him, +her lover, and ended by beseeching him, now that she had sacrificed all +for him, not to cast her away.</p> +<p>At this the general was so disgusted and enraged with her, that he +determined that she must die, and cast about in his mind for some means +of death worthy of her selfishness and wickedness, “for,” +said <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb36" href="#pb36" name= +"pb36">36</a>]</span>he, “you are not a woman, you are a fiend, +and therefore must die.”</p> +<p>He therefore ordered his men to bind her with cords, face downwards, +on to the back of a wild horse, and to turn horse and its rider into +the desert. This order was carried out amidst heartrending cries and +entreaties for mercy from the girl, but to all the general paid no +heed, declaring that she was only suffering a just death for the +abominable behaviour to her own people. The soldiers followed the horse +for some distance into the desert to prevent its returning, and thus +perished the beautiful traitress of Kerman.</p> +<p>I may say here that this form of death is not unknown even now in +Persia, and I heard a story of a man who treated his wife in much the +same way, only the idea was perhaps a little more diabolical. He was +angry with her for some reason, and desired to rid himself of her, so +he caught a cow, and kept it shut up without water for some days. Then +he bound his wife under the body of the animal and sent it off. Of +course the cow made for the nearest stream, and we can imagine better +than describe the fate of the poor woman.</p> +<p>The Kerman of to-day is a large walled-in city of about forty +thousand souls. This wall is pierced by some dozen gates, some of which +are in good repair, but others are fast falling into ruin. In fact, +most of the buildings in Kerman, as well as other parts of Persia, are +“kharab shodeh”—that is, either in ruins, or fast +falling into that state. The “kharab” buildings outside the +town are the abode of jackals, hyænas, owls, and other creatures +of the desert. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb37" href="#pb37" name= +"pb37">37</a>]</span></p> +<p>The story of how the jackals came to be inhabiters of the desert is +told by the Kermanis with great gusto, and they quite sympathise with +them in their banishment from the civilisation of town life. When in +Kerman our house was outside the city, so we had the full benefit of +the cries and wailings of these jackals, and at first it used to make +me feel quite creepy, but after a time we became more accustomed to the +weird music of the night, and missed the evening concerts when absent +from Kerman. Sometimes the jackals would come right up into our garden, +at other times their howling would come from the desert, like the +far-away cry of a soul in torment, or the wailing of the banshee; but +all night and every night the wailing, wailing went on, always crying +for what they had not and never could have—never satisfied, and +always letting people know the fact!</p> +<p>The story of the dispute between the jackals and the dogs of Kerman +was told me soon after our arrival there. It is said that, in olden +days, the jackals were the domesticated pets of the inhabitants of the +town, and lived quite happily and contentedly in their respective +homes, always enjoying security and peace within the closed gates, +while the dogs had to be content to be dwellers of the desert and +ruins, outside the walls of the city. One day the dogs awoke to the +fact that the jackals had much the better time of it, and they did not +see why this unequal state of things should remain. They were tired of +being always outsiders, always short of food, and exposed to all the +chances of wind and weather—so they resolved to make a great +effort to obtain a position <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb38" href= +"#pb38" name="pb38">38</a>]</span><i>inside</i> the gates, where there +was plenty of everything. Being Socialists, they believed in the maxim +of “share and share alike,” so they called a committee to +consider by what means they could oust the jackals from their +comfortable quarters and <span class="corr" id="xd20e1075" title= +"Source: instal">install</span> themselves in their places. After due +thought and much discussion, they determined to send some leading +representatives to the city to interview the jackals. This they +accordingly did, telling them that many of the dogs had been ill, and +the doctor had ordered change of air for three days. Would not the +noble jackals allow their humble neighbours the dogs to exchange places +with them just for three days, in order that the invalids might have a +chance of recovering their strength and health. At the same time they +enlarged upon the beauties of the desert air, which they said would be +so good for those who had been cooped up in the stifling city for so +long. The jackals, after long and careful consideration, agreed to this +proposition, arranging to leave their comfortable homes for three days +only, at the expiration of which time all were to return to their +original places.</p> +<p>The next night the change was accomplished, and in the morning the +people were all surprised to see dogs where the night before there had +been jackals. However, they did not object very much. At the end of the +three nights, the jackals came to the gates of the city and demanded +admission, longing to return to their own haunts and homes, having +found three days in the desert quite enough, there being no comparison +between the comforts of the town and the dreariness and cold of the +outside life. The dogs appreciated the change so much that they +answered, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb39" href="#pb39" name= +"pb39">39</a>]</span>“No, thank you, we prefer to stay where we +are, and do not wish ever to return to the desert.” So the poor +jackals saw that they had been fooled, and went away sad and sorrowful, +and every night since then have come howling for admission to the +gates, and on the dogs answering “No,” they go away +wailing. And that is the reason why every night we can hear the howling +and wailing of these disappointed creatures. And they will probably go +on howling and wailing till the end of time, for the dogs are never +likely to wish to return to the desert life.</p> +<p>Such is the legend of the jackals and the dogs of Kerman. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb40" href="#pb40" name= +"pb40">40</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch3" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter III</h2> +<h2 class="main">Persian Industries</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Carpet-making—How to tell a good +carpet—How to make a carpet—The cry of the +children—Shawl +manufactures—Calico-printing—Brass-work—Agricultural +industries—Water disputes—Kanâts—Poppy +crops—Wheat and corn—Tobacco-growing.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<p class="first">Saying in Persia—“One plum gets colour by +looking at another.”</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Do ye hear the children weeping, O my +brothers,</p> +<p class="line xd20e1099">Ere the sorrow comes with years;</p> +<p class="line">They are leaning their young heads against their +mothers,</p> +<p class="line xd20e1099">And <i>that</i> cannot stop their tears;</p> +<p class="line xd20e1108">... the child’s sob in the silence +curses deeper</p> +<p class="line xd20e1099">Than the strong man in his wrath.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">E. B. Browning.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The subject of the industries of Persia is such an +extensive one that I cannot even attempt to discuss it here at any +great length. I only wish to describe a few of the manufactures and +industries which came under our notice while in Persia.</p> +<p>By far the most interesting of them all, to my mind, are the carpet +manufactories to be found in many parts. Very few Europeans live for +any length of time in Persia or other carpet-manufacturing countries +without being affected by the carpet craze. They may try to fight +against it, but they are almost sure to succumb, sooner or later!</p> +<p>When choosing a carpet the first thing to do is to make sure that +the colours are fast. This is done by moistening a handkerchief or +small piece of white <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb41" href="#pb41" +name="pb41">41</a>]</span>cloth and rubbing the carpet. If the +slightest tinge of colour comes off, the carpet is not a good one. So +much depends upon the nature and durability of dyes used. In olden +days, the only dyes used were indigo, madder, and vine leaves. From +these three ingredients they were able to mix and make most delicate +and artistic shades, all of which were “fast” colours. Now, +however, the aniline dyes are so commonly used that it is difficult to +find a carpet in which all the colours are permanent. Europeans are +often deceived when buying carpets, but natives seldom! When the latter +invests in a carpet he expects it to last the whole of his lifetime, +and not only of his life, but also of that of his children, +grandchildren, and great-grandchildren, and perchance be more valuable +at the end of that period than the day he purchased it. As a rule he +realises his expectations. When a native buys a new carpet the first +thing he does with it is to put it down in the bazaars for all the +traffic to pass over it. The more muddy and filthy the shoes of the +passers-by, the greater will be the beauty of the carpet afterwards, +provided the colours are fast. This statement may perhaps refer more +especially to Syria and Turkish Arabia, but I believe it is also true +of Persia. I have, myself, often seen carpets laid down in this way in +the bazaars of Damascus, Beyrout, Baghdad, and Mosul. I could never +quite make up my mind to allow our carpets to be subjected to this +treatment, though my husband always assured me it was the only way for +the carpets to acquire that beautiful silky gloss, so dear to the heart +of the carpet-lover. As a matter of fact that gloss is <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb42" href="#pb42" name= +"pb42">42</a>]</span>maintained by the native custom of leaving the +shoes at the door. The constant walking upon the carpet with bare or +stockinged feet tends to bring about this desirable finish: whilst, on +the other hand, our barbarous custom of wearing dirty shoes in a room +is not so good for the carpet, nor are tables and chairs great +carpet-improvers. Before the time of exporting carpets from Persia in +any great number only good carpets were made, but now the demand is so +great that to keep up the supply a good deal of shoddy work is +manufactured and sent out of the country.</p> +<p>To be a good judge of a carpet you need to be quite an expert. Many +things have to be taken into consideration. First the dyes, as we have +already seen; then the number of stitches to the inch must be counted, +and it is said that a good carpet contains about 10,000 stitches to the +square foot, while some of the better ones have as many as 40,000. +Another point to notice is to see whether both ends are the same width. +This is done by doubling the carpet: if the ends do not coincide it is +not a well-made carpet. Then, again, it should lie perfectly flat on +the floor, otherwise it will crease in a very short time, and be +worthless. My husband had a beautiful Kerman carpet given to him once: +it was valued at £20, and, but for the fact that it does not lie +flat on the floor, would be worth a good deal more. As it is, we have +to keep it hanging on the wall, where it cannot get +“rucked” or creased.</p> +<p>Prices vary, of course, according to the size and make of the +carpets. Very fair ones, the size of an ordinary hearthrug, can be had +from £2, 10s. to £8 <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb43" +href="#pb43" name="pb43">43</a>]</span>or £10. Silk ones cost a +great deal more, but are worth the money. A small silk rug can be +bought for £50, but they can be obtained any price up to +£500 or £1000. A mixture of wool and silk is now made to +suit the European market, but is not so durable as the pure silk ones. +It is generally acknowledged that the Kurdistan carpets are the best: +they are the most expensive, being about £3 the square yard. The +chief attraction of these lies in the fact that they are alike on both +sides, and are very smooth and fine. Next to these come those made at +Kerman, the design being quite different to those of Kurdistan. In the +Kerman carpets it is not at all uncommon to find figures of men and +animals, sometimes almost life size. Whilst in Kerman we visited one or +two of the carpet manufactories, and were very much interested in +watching the process.</p> +<p>All carpets are, of course, made without machinery of any kind. The +warp is stretched on a loom, which is merely a frame. The woof consists +of short threads woven and knotted by hand without the aid of a +shuttle. When a row is finished it is pressed tightly to the rest of +the web by means of a comb inserted into the warp. The +“pile” is regulated by the amount clipped off. For a velvet +pile the woof is clipped very close, till a perfectly smooth, even +surface is obtained. The weaver does not see the pattern as he works, +as he sits with the reverse side of the web towards him. The looms are +generally kept in an underground vaulted room, often with water running +through the centre. At each loom three or four workers sit, according +to the size of <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb44" href="#pb44" name= +"pb44">44</a>]</span>the carpet. Sometimes the workers consist of one +man and two children, and occasionally the owner uses boys and girls +only for the weaving, one man acting as overseer to the children.</p> +<p>I sat on the high stool by the side of a tiny girl whose fingers +were working away so fast I could hardly follow her movements. The +overseer was walking up and down the room, calling out instructions to +the workers. To me it sounded a horrible, incoherent jumble, but the +children seemed to understand it perfectly. The overseer held in his +hand a paper, from which he was apparently reading out instructions. +Not having a very thorough knowledge of the Persian language, it was +impossible to follow, but as far as I could make out it was something +as follows: To No. 1. Three blue threads, one white, two green; No. 2. +Four yellow, one white; and so on, each child repeating after the +“master” the instructions given. As it was all said in a +high-pitched monotone, the result was confusing and deafening, but +there the little weavers sit, day in, day out, week after week, in this +damp, gloomy cellar, kept hard at it by the unrelenting overseer.</p> +<p>The children are taken on as “weavers” when very young, +some even starting when five or six years old. Their hours of work are +from sunrise to sunset in the summer, and until two or three hours +after sunset in the winter, and they are paid at the enormous rate of +about 2d. a day, sometimes starting with even less, whilst learning the +work.</p> +<p>The consequence of this abominable sweating system is that to-day +there are hundreds of little children in Kerman, from eight to nine +years of age, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb45" href="#pb45" name= +"pb45">45</a>]</span>confirmed cripples from rheumatism and other +diseases. From sitting so long in one position, while still of tender +years, amid such damp surroundings, their little feet and hands become +knotted and deformed. They can no longer earn their daily bread, so +perforce must help to swell the great multitude of beggars who throng +the streets and bazaars of Kerman.</p> +<p>I once saw a little girl about seven years old sitting by the +roadside just outside our house. On asking her why she was sitting +there all alone, her reply was, “Mother sent me to my work +(carpet-weaving), but my feet hurt me so, I can’t walk.” +She was waiting there whilst a companion in work and sorrow ran to try +and find some one who would carry her friend to the workroom.</p> +<p>When we think of the sufferings of these hundreds of poor innocent +children, do not our hearts ache with sadness for them? Surely the +“Cry of the Children” of Kerman will go up to God, and He +will have mercy.</p> +<p>In the meantime, because people want cheap Persian carpets, these +little martyrs must be willing to sacrifice childhood’s happy +days, health, aye, and often life itself, on the altar of +cheapness.</p> +<p>Major (now Colonel) Phillott, then acting British Consul in Kerman, +was so horrified at what he saw of the state of these little sufferers, +that he determined to start a loom of his own, employing men only to do +the weaving. This he accordingly did, finding, of course, that the +expense was enormous, as men’s wages were so much higher than the +children’s, and also that they would not consent to such long +hours. So long as children are to be had for a mere nominal +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb46" href="#pb46" name= +"pb46">46</a>]</span>wage, so long will the weavers use them, caring +nothing for their sorrows, only bent on making money—the god of +the Persian.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e1154width" id="p046-1"><img src= +"images/p046-1.jpg" alt="A Novel Drying-Ground" width="590" height= +"404"> +<p class="figureHead">A Novel Drying-Ground</p> +<p class="first">The dry bed of the river at Isphahan is used in +summer-time as a drying-ground for curtains and printed cloths, which +are manufactured in the city.</p> +</div> +<div class="figure xd20e1160width" id="p046-2"><img src= +"images/p046-2.jpg" alt="Persian Mode of Irrigation" width="586" +height="406"> +<p class="figureHead">Persian Mode of Irrigation</p> +<p class="first">The ox, who patiently walks up and down the inclined +passage, draws up from the well a large skin of water, or sometimes an +iron bucket, which empties itself into trenches prepared +beforehand.</p> +</div> +<p>A soft kind of felt carpet is also made in Persia, specially in +Isphahan and Yezd. These are called Namads. The materials used are +wools of all kinds, chiefly camel’s hair. The colour is a light +ochre shade of brown, and there is generally a pattern woven in the +centre of different colours, red predominating. Some of these Namads +are an inch or more in thickness, and are delightfully soft for walking +on. They make a splendid foundation in a room for laying carpets on. +There is yet another kind of rug much used, called the Galeem. These +are much cheaper than carpets, and are suitable for rough use, such as +travelling. They wash well, but do not improve with use as carpets do, +having no pile.</p> +<p>There are still shawl-manufactories to be seen in Kerman, though +they are rapidly on the decrease. The best kind of shawl sells for +fifty tumans (about £10) each, but there are others less +expensive, which resemble the famous Cashmere shawls of India. These +“shawls” are given as coats of honour by the governor or +other high official, and are sought after and valued by all. They are +woven in much the same manner as the carpets, and are made from the +under hair of a special kind of white goat called “koork,” +which is only found in the neighbourhood of Kerman.</p> +<p>The silks of Persia are very pretty and durable. They are woven +principally at Yezd, Kashan, and Resht. The latter place is noted, too, +for its patchwork <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb47" href="#pb47" +name="pb47">47</a>]</span>and embroidery. This work consists of tiny +pieces of cloth pieced together into some floral or other design. I had +two or three pieces of this work given me by a Persian gentleman of +high rank. One is a study in red, and the other consists chiefly of +black and green, enlivened here and there by bright patches of other +colours.</p> +<p>Another rather interesting industry to be seen in Isphahan is the +calico-printing; this is done by means of blocks, and, as a rule, one +design covers the whole piece. These prints are used very much as +curtains, table-cloths, &c., and have the advantage of being +inexpensive. The natives often use them as shrouds for the dead, for +which purpose special ones are manufactured, bearing suitable +quotations from the Koran.</p> +<p>During the summer in Isphahan the bed of the river may be seen +covered with these prints, laid out to dry in the sun after having gone +through the process of dyeing and “blocking.”</p> +<p>Space forbids my mentioning all the many other articles manufactured +in Persia—the brass-work of Isphahan, copper-work of Kashan, +silver of both Isphahan and Shiraz, mosaic also from Shiraz. But enough +has been said to show that the Persians are a very clever and artistic +race of people, and considering the primitiveness of their methods and +implements, the results are astonishingly beautiful and charming. The +agricultural industries of Persia, too, are considerable—the +water supply necessary for these being a fruitful source of quarrelling +and fighting, which sometimes leads even to murder. The labourers whose +duty it is to look after the watering of the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb48" href="#pb48" name="pb48">48</a>]</span>crops +are armed with long spades, for the purpose of digging trenches and +clearing a way for the water, &c. In a dispute these spades become +very formidable weapons, and many a broken head have they caused.</p> +<p>Often when riding in the desert we have met a company of these men +returning from their labours, each carrying his murderous-looking +implement on his shoulder, and in the gloaming they resembled an army +of soldiers marching. The water supply is very often conducted into a +town or village from the mountains by means of kanâts, or long +underground passages. Pits are dug at a distance of about 25 feet +apart, each one being connected with the other by a subterranean +passage, and so on till the place is reached where the water is needed. +Sometimes these tunnels extend for many miles, and as the mouth of each +pit is surrounded by mounds of earth thrown up, it gives the appearance +of a succession of huge mole-hills running across the country. Great +loss of life is associated with the sinking of these shafts from the +constant falling in of the sides; on this account very high wages are +given to compensate for probable loss of life.</p> +<p>One of the principal crops around Isphahan is that of the poppy. It +is a beautiful sight to see field after field of these lovely white +flowers, stretching away for miles, maybe. How sad to think that such +beauty should lead to misery, wretchedness, and degradation! When the +poppy is ripe, the “head” is scratched at sunset with a +kind of comb in three places; from these gashes the opium oozes out. It +is then collected in the morning before sunrise, dried, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb49" href="#pb49" name="pb49">49</a>]</span>and +rolled into cakes ready either for use in the country or for export. It +is calculated that about 8000 cases of opium, each case containing some +200 cakes, are exported from Persia every year.</p> +<p>Although the growth of opium enriches those directly concerned, yet +it tends to impoverish the country; for the ground which before was +cultivated with wheat and corn is now required for the poppy, thus +making grain much dearer.</p> +<p>There is also a large quantity of tobacco grown in Persia, which is +used for the “kalian” (or water-pipe) and cigarette +smoking. The best kind is grown in the neighbourhood of Shiraz.</p> +<p>Wheat and barley are largely grown, and are always reaped with the +sickle. The land is very fertile, and with very little trouble a good +crop is obtained, provided the water supply is good.</p> +<p>It has been said of Persia that “it is only necessary to +tickle the land and it will laugh into blossom.” <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb50" href="#pb50" name="pb50">50</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch4" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter IV</h2> +<h2 class="main">The Climate of Persia</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Resht, Teheran, Isphahan—Dryness of +atmosphere—Cellars—Roof life—Children attacked by +jackals—Chequered history of work in Kerman.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“The climate’s delicate, the air most +sweet.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">When speaking of the climate of Persia, Cyrus is +supposed to have said, “People perish with cold at one point, +while they are suffocated with heat at another,” and this may be +applied equally well to the climate of Persia to-day, for every town +has a different climate according to its height above sea-level. When +we land on Persian soil from the Caspian we find ourselves some feet +below sea-level, consequently the climate is very damp, and vegetation +is profuse. The rainfall in Resht is so great that the wells are often +overflowing, rain falling during quite two-thirds of the year. Always +having thought of Persia as a very dry, parched land, our surprise was +very great on reaching Resht, the port on the Caspian, to see such +lovely forests of trees, and flowers in abundance, both wild and +cultivated. Primroses, anemones, periwinkles, cyclamen, and many other +kinds of flowers, all were in bloom as we drove through Resht on our +way to Isphahan. The ferns, too, were splendid, maiden-hair and +ox-tongue being especially beautiful. With all these <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb51" href="#pb51" name="pb51">51</a>]</span>homelike +flowers and ferns around us, we could hardly realise that we were not +driving through some dear Devonshire lane in Old England. But as we +mounted, higher and ever higher over the Elburz Mountains, we soon lost +this English type of scenery. The climate became dry and warm, till by +the time we reached Teheran we were thankful indeed for the shelter of +the comfortable quarters of our American friends, who extended to us +the most hospitable kindness during our stay in that city. The climate +of Teheran is very good; its winters are pleasantly cold, and the +summer heat is not so overpoweringly great as in other places. Then, +too, there are lovely summer gardens near at hand, whither the +residents can retire during the warm months of the year. And for those +who love the mountain heights there is the beautiful and picturesque +Mount Demavend, rising some 19,400 feet above sea-level. This mountain +adds greatly to the beauty of Teheran, both as regards its scenery and +climate. It stands as a sentinel guarding the valley in which Teheran +lies, and has an ever-changing beauty of its own, with its eternal +snows catching and reflecting all the radiant hues of the rising and +setting sun. It also forms a most valuable health resort and summer +retreat for all the heat-wearied ones of the neighbourhood. This is the +highest mountain in Persia, but there are many others from 10,000 to +13,000 feet high, so, if necessary, a cool climate is to be found at +all times of the year. Once over the Elburz, the whole of Persia is a +high plateau land, till we descend once more to the shores of the +Persian Gulf. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb52" href="#pb52" name= +"pb52">52</a>]</span></p> +<p>Isphahan has a very pleasant climate; the winters are cold and +bright, and it is possible to enjoy sitting out in the sunshine most of +the winter months. The mornings and evenings are cold, but the days are +delightful during the sunshine. The atmosphere here, as elsewhere in +Persia, is very dry, and one’s skin gets very cracked and +“chapped,” not from the cold, but from the dryness of the +air. This is the cause, too, of much “nerve” trouble +amongst the Europeans, especially, perhaps, with the ladies. In the +winter the natives warm themselves and their rooms by means of a +“korsi” (literally, a chair). This “korsi” is a +contrivance for giving warmth at a minimum cost. A hole is dug in the +floor of the room in which the whole family live. Into this hole is put +a clay or iron firepan full of lighted charcoal: above this, the +“korsi,” a wooden frame varying in size according to the +number of the family, is placed, and over all is spread a large +“lahaf” or padded quilt. All round the “korsi” +are placed soft mattresses and cushions, and here the family pass the +time eating, sleeping, talking; the “korsi” acting as a +dining-table and the “lahaf” as a covering by day and +night. This arrangement is very unhealthy, but the natives love it, and +the more friends and relations they can gather round the +“korsi” the happier they are.</p> +<p>The summers at Isphahan are rather warm, but there are many places +near by, which are cool, pleasant, and within easy distance for those +whose business keeps them in the vicinity of the town during the hot +season.</p> +<p>There is always plenty of ice to be had during <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb53" href="#pb53" name="pb53">53</a>]</span>the +summer here—perhaps not always of the cleanest, but still good +enough for the purpose of cooling fruits and drinks. The native method +of making ice is rather clever. A “yakh khaneh” or +ice-house is generally situated outside the town or near some running +water: a trench is dug some two or three feet deep, and a wall from +twenty to forty feet is built facing north and south, thus shielding +the trench from all rays of the sun. As soon as frost sets in, an inch +or two of water is let into the trench: this freezes during the night, +and the next day more water is diverted into the hole, on top of the +ice. This is repeated several days in succession, till about a foot or +more of ice is formed. This is then broken up and stored in deep +caverns or wells for use during the summer. The process is continued as +long as the frost lasts, and thus there is generally enough to keep the +town supplied with ice during the great heat. Well-to-do Persians have +their own “yakh khanehs,” and others use them for a means +of livelihood. If the supply runs short before the hot season is over, +frozen snow is brought from the mountains; but this is very expensive, +as it has to be brought such a long distance.</p> +<p>Yezd has a much warmer “hot season” than Isphahan, and +the heat is much more trying and of longer duration. The houses are +essentially summer houses. The winters being shorter and much less +severe, little attention is paid to the comforts necessary for cold +weather, but everything is considered which will add to the coolness +and airiness of the houses.</p> +<p>As a traveller approaches Yezd he cannot fail to <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb54" href="#pb54" name="pb54">54</a>]</span>be +struck by the number of tall “chimneys” rising from the +city, and he almost fancies he is approaching some large manufacturing +town, and speculates perhaps as to the nature of the manufactures +possible in such a sandy city of the desert. But as he draws nearer he +sees there is no smoke rising from these “chimneys,” and so +concludes that, after all, they are not for manufacturing purposes. +What, then, is the purpose of all those tall, square, chimney-like +buildings, appearing from the roofs of nearly all the dwelling-places +of Yezd? They are air shafts, built with the hope of bringing a little +cool air into the houses during the hot season, when the atmosphere +below is so stifling that it seems impossible to breathe. These +structures are called “<span lang="fa-latn">bâd +geers</span>,” or “wind-catchers.” There was a very +large one connected with the house in which we lived in Yezd, and even +on the hottest days, some air was always to be felt coming from the +“<span lang="fa-latn">bâd geer</span>.” It was so +arranged in our house that after the air had been caught and brought +down by means of the chimney, it passed over a “hoze” (tank +of water), and in this way was cooled before circulating through the +house. Another aid to bearing the heat in Yezd is the custom of +spending the middle part of the day underground in cellars.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e1238width" id="p054-1"><img src= +"images/p054-1.jpg" alt="A Chimney of Yezd" width="430" height="443"> +<p class="figureHead">A Chimney of Yezd</p> +<p class="first">These tall chimney-like buildings are air-shafts, +constructed with the hope of bringing any cool air which may be +circulating above the houses into the rooms below. The above is a photo +of the house in which we lived in Yezd.</p> +</div> +<div class="figure xd20e1244width" id="p054-2"><img src= +"images/p054-2.jpg" alt="A Korsi or Heating Contrivance" width="582" +height="418"> +<p class="figureHead">A Korsi or Heating Contrivance</p> +<p class="first">In a hole made in the floor a pan of lighted charcoal +is placed. This is covered by the Korsi, a wooden frame varying in size +according to the family; and over this again is spread the lahaf or +padded quilt. This arrangement serves as a table, and is an effectual +but unhealthy heating device.</p> +</div> +<p>Some of these cellars are quite palatial, the walls and floors being +made from the famous Yezd marble, which closely resembles alabaster. +One such I remember very well: it was a room about 40 feet by 30 feet, +very lofty, and lit from the top by windows on a level with the ground +above. In the centre of this room was a “hoze” (water +tank), of which the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb55" href="#pb55" +name="pb55">55</a>]</span>Persians are so fond, and rising from the +water was a fountain capable of playing to the height of 30 feet; a +large bowl turned upside down had been fixed on the ceiling to catch +the spray and prevent it from becoming damp. Here the inmates of the +house took their mid-day siesta, and very charmingly cool it was +compared to the upstairs world. Some cellars are not at all healthy, +and, if slept in during the day, the sleepers are very liable to +contract malaria or some other fever. When dry and well ventilated no +harm seems to come from this custom of retiring underground during the +great heat of the day, and certainly a good cellar is a great boon to a +European, and a great blessing when the thermometer registers 110 in +the shade upstairs, while in the cellar it rarely goes above 86 or 90 +degrees.</p> +<p>Scorpions, centipedes, tarantulas, and suchlike creatures have a +good time in Yezd. The climate agrees with them, and they thrive and +enjoy life to an alarming extent. One day my husband killed three +scorpions within the hour, two of which were the poisonous black kind. +Tarantulas abounded inside the house and out. They always seemed to +make a point of running across my path during prayer times; to say the +least it is very disconcerting to see one of these creatures glide +softly past you with the evident intention of seeking shelter under +your skirt! Our cat always used to make a dart directly he saw any of +these tarantulas, just to draw our attention to them, but he would +never kill one.</p> +<p>From life in the cellar we pass to life on the roof. This was often +the most enjoyable part of the day. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb56" +href="#pb56" name="pb56">56</a>]</span>It is lovely, when the heat of +the day is over, to lie and watch the stars, knowing that the same +stars were watching over our loved ones in the Homeland.</p> +<p>Sleeping on the roof had its disadvantages as well as its +attractions and advantages. One great disadvantage is the fact that the +sun wakes you up so early; another, the talking and singing which goes +on all round you from the adjoining roofs, often make it difficult to +sleep. In addition there is this very serious drawback, that often the +jackals visit the roofs of the houses at night, seeking for something +wherewith to appease their hunger, and if they cannot find anything +else to satisfy them will attack sleeping children. On several +occasions poor little mites have been brought to the hospital terribly +mutilated and torn by the jackals, some just slightly bitten on the +face, others so mauled and eaten as to be quite unrecognisable. One +especially sad case I remember; the poor mother was wild with grief, +for her child, a baby of only a few weeks old, had been almost eaten up +by these abominable creatures.</p> +<p>Life on the roof begins soon after sunset. It is very interesting to +watch, from a height, roof-life springing into existence. First one and +then another will bring out the family bedding, spread it on the floor +of the roof or on low wooden benches, and then sit and chat till +dinner-time. Very often the evening meal is eaten on the roof, and +shortly after the family retires to rest. A Moslem takes great pains to +have his roof well shielded from the gaze of onlookers, and if he is at +all suspicious that he is overlooked he will immediately raise his +wall. This being the case, the roofs in a Moslem quarter are generally +very much <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb57" href="#pb57" name= +"pb57">57</a>]</span>shut in by high walls, which keep out the air and +make the nights much less bearable.</p> +<p>The climate of Kerman is almost perfect for those who can stand it. +Situated about 6500 feet above the sea, surrounded on all sides by +mountains and deserts, the result is a delightful bracing air and +invigorating climate. In Kerman there is no need of resting in cellars +by day or sleeping on roofs by night. Indeed the climate would be hard +to beat anywhere. The winters are charming, bright and cold, with +snow-covered mountains always in view. For a month or two in the summer +it becomes fairly hot, when flies and mosquitoes nearly drive one wild, +but it is generally possible to get away for a little time, and during +the remainder of the year the climate is all that could be desired. And +yet it seems strange that in spite of all this Europeans have found it +difficult to live there.</p> +<p>Our mission in its infancy had a very chequered career, owing to the +breaking down in health of its missionaries. The first to open the work +there was a Mr. Carless, a clergyman of the Church of England. He went +there a young man in the vigour of youth, and at the end of three +years, having gained the love and admiration of Moslem and Parsee +alike, he was laid in a solitary grave away in the desert, in a valley +surrounded by hills. After a short time his work was taken up by a Mr. +and Mrs. Blackett, but the latter was able to remain only a few short +months, at the end of which time she returned to England, broken down +and shattered in health. Then my husband was appointed to open Medical +Mission work there. Unfortunately, before the year was out, +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb58" href="#pb58" name= +"pb58">58</a>]</span>we too had to leave, this time on account of my +health. During our stay there an English engineer came to seek for +artesian wells. After two or three months he contracted fever and died +at our house, and he too is resting in that quiet spot amongst the +mountains by the side of Mr. Carless. On our leaving, another doctor +was appointed to take my husband’s post, but his stay in Kerman +was not even as long as ours had been. And so it seemed as if the work +there could not be carried on, but fortunately this chapter of +accidents has now come to an end, for our missionaries have been living +and working there for some three or four years. All agree, too, in +saying that the climate is a very healthy one, provided the people +living there have sound hearts! <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb59" +href="#pb59" name="pb59">59</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch5" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter V</h2> +<h2 class="main">Holidays in Persia</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">How to ensure a prosperous +journey—Natanz—Astonishment of natives at sight of +hairpins—Pulivagoon—Mahoon—Aliabâd—Prince +under canvas—Visit from a Persian princess—A Persian +deer-hunt.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“If all the year were playing holidays,</p> +<p class="line">To sport would be as tedious as to work.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">In a climate such as has been described in the +foregoing chapter, it is necessary for the sake of health to get away +during a part of the hot season. Fortunately there are suitable places +near at hand to each of the large cities, so it is no very difficult +matter to get away for a few weeks. The difficulties lie rather in +reaching these places, and in transporting all one’s +belongings—at least all those that are absolutely +necessary—to the place chosen.</p> +<p>After having decided upon the desirability of having a holiday, the +next thing is to fix a day of departure. This sounds easy to say. Yes, +it is quite a simple matter for you to say, “We will start on +such and such a day,” but you are perhaps reckoning without +considering your muleteer. On the morning appointed you rise early, see +that everything is in readiness, and then sit down to wait for the +baggage animals to arrive. Time goes on, the sun begins to get hot, and +no sign of the muleteer or mules, so by-and-by you send your servant to +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb60" href="#pb60" name= +"pb60">60</a>]</span>investigate matters, and he brings back with him +the muleteer, who smiles sweetly and says, “Ensha’allah +farda (to-morrow, God willing) we will start on our journey.” His +mules have gone to a village, and will be back “ensha’allah +farda.” We can console ourselves that very likely the same thing +will occur again on the next day. It is always “farda” with +these people, so we must try to possess our souls in patience, and hope +for the best. Persians are never in a hurry, and cannot understand why +it should make any difference whether we start “to-day” or +“to-morrow.” Oh, those endless “fardas”! how +tired we got of them before we had been very long in the land. But it +is good to learn patience, and the sooner you have mastered this lesson +well, the happier will you be living in the East.</p> +<p>Preparing for a holiday in Persia is rather a different matter to +starting off at home for the seaside or elsewhere. Everything has to be +taken—pots and pans, tables, chairs, beds and bedding—in +fact, everything that is necessary for four or five weeks’ stay +in a house where nothing is provided but the bare walls. It is +wonderful what a number of things are necessary even for a short stay, +in the so-called simple life.</p> +<p>The natives are very superstitious about many things when starting +on a journey. For instance, it is very unlucky, in their eyes, to +proceed if any of the party happens to sneeze on the point of starting. +They would much rather postpone the start for a more propitious +occasion, than disregard this bad omen. I heard of one man who insisted +on continuing his journey in spite of the warning given in <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb61" href="#pb61" name="pb61">61</a>]</span>the form +of a sneeze, and the consequence was he fell off his mule and broke his +leg! The natives also are careful to have a good supply of copper coins +ready when starting on a journey, to give to the beggars. Whenever we +left home our servants always distributed freely to the poor who were +living around, to ensure a blessing on our journey, but they never +forgot to put the amount down in the daily account!</p> +<p>While in Persia we had some very enjoyable holidays, but as I could +not endure the altitude we were never able to go to the mountains, +which of course make the ideal summer resorts. However, we managed to +find some very pretty and fairly cool places in the plains or on +slightly elevated ground. Our first holiday in Persia was spent in a +very pretty little village called Natanz. I had been taken ill on our +way to Isphahan, and the lady doctor who came out to meet us suggested +our going for a week or so to this little village before entering +Isphahan. Spring was already well advanced, and it is difficult to +recruit in the hot season.</p> +<p>Natanz is a picturesque little village, slightly off the general +route, so that the natives had not then become very much used to +Feringhis staying with them, and our coming caused no little +excitement. We arrived there about twelve o’clock one night, and +were conducted to our room by an admiring throng, and this throng +continued to “admire” for the whole time we were there. The +windows of our room were composed of lattice work only, so all +interested could always have a good view of our movements. On waking in +the morning there were our faithful followers to be seen with their +faces flattened against <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb62" href= +"#pb62" name="pb62">62</a>]</span>the trellis work, waiting for us to +wake, and see what we were going to do next! At times this interest +shown on the part of the inhabitants was a trifle embarrassing, but as +often as they were driven away by our servant just as often did they +return again whenever his back was turned. For the first day or two I +did not leave the room, but when I felt stronger I used to sit in a +chair outside the window reading or writing. The moment my husband left +me the women all swarmed round like bees, full of curious questions. +Unfortunately at that time I was not able to talk to them, not knowing +the language, but I could make out what they were saying to a great +extent from their gestures. My fountain pen was a cause of great +amusement and astonishment, as were also my hairpins. The delight of +some of the women on being presented with a hairpin was very funny. +They seemed to think I stuck them into my head, as into a pincushion. +At first the women were rather shy, as they could not be quite sure +whether I was a man or a woman, but one of them came and peeped under +my hat and seeing I had long hair concluded I was a woman. My husband +received a visit from the governor of the village, who was very +delighted to see an English hakeem. We were quite sorry when our little +holiday in Natanz was over, but being anxious to push on to Isphahan, +did not care to prolong our stay longer than was necessary.</p> +<p>Our next holiday was in the summer of the same year 1900. This time +we went only a few hours’ drive out of Isphahan to a place called +Pulivagoon. It was a very pretty little village, and a nice house, +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb63" href="#pb63" name= +"pb63">63</a>]</span>belonging to the Zil es Sultan, had been lent to +us for a month. The house was built practically on the river, as our +windows hung right over the water, and the sound of its rushing torrent +reminded us of the lapping of the waves on the seashore in dear Old +England. There were some lovely woods near by, to which we often used +to take our tea, and pass the time pleasantly paddling, bathing, and +fishing in the river. The following year we were at Kerman, and went +for our holidays to a lovely garden about nine hours’ ride from +the city. Mahoon lies very high; it must be at least 6700 feet above +sea-level. The climate is beautiful, but the altitude proved too high +for me to enjoy it much. We had a very tiring ride from Kerman; +starting one day soon after noon we rode for three or four hours, then +had a refreshing cup of tea under the shadow of a large spreading tree. +But we could not afford to linger, for we still had a good half of our +journey before us, so once more we mounted our respective steeds, +hoping to reach our destination about nine o’clock, but alas for +our hopes! Nine o’clock came and went, and still we seemed no +nearer; ten o’clock, and still no sign of our village. It was now +pitch dark, and we were all very tired and hungry, and I was so dead +beat that I could hardly sit upright on my animal. My husband rode +close by my side, to be in readiness in case I should fall off in my +sleep. To the oft-repeated question, “How much farther?” +the answer always came, “Ensha’allah—only +half-an-hour.” Oh, those half-hours, how wearisome they became! I +did so wish that they would say two hours or three hours for a change, +for the everlasting half-hour was <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb64" +href="#pb64" name="pb64">64</a>]</span>so tantalising. Our servants +told me afterwards that they said this to keep up my spirits, as they +thought, if they told the truth about the distance, “the +Khanum’s heart would melt within her.” At last, just after +midnight, we heard a very energetic coo-ing ahead of us, and knew that +at last we were within sound of rest and food. It was so dark that we +could not find the path leading to the garden, and our animals went +floundering about over great boulders of stones or stumbling into +ditches, and of course all in the wrong direction, till some one met us +and conducted our tired party into the house. Here we found that our +baggage animals, with Bagi and the other servants, had not yet turned +up, though they had started an hour or two before us. They did not +arrive till morning, so there was nothing for it but to lie down on +bare boards and go to sleep supperless. The only drinking vessel to be +found was a saucepan, from which we had a most refreshing drink of +water and retired to our luxurious couch, sleeping as well and as +soundly as if we were lying on beds of softest down. We were awakened +about eight o’clock next morning by the sound of bells, and knew +that our belated caravan had come in. While they were settling disputes +and unpacking we strolled off into the garden to dip our faces into the +cool water that was flowing through the grounds. It was, or rather had +been, a magnificent garden, but, like everything else in Persia, was +even then fast falling into decay. There was water in abundance, +flowing on both sides, and fountains playing on the top terrace and +also at the foot of the garden. The whole garden was built in a series +of terraces, and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb65" href="#pb65" name= +"pb65">65</a>]</span>steps led from one level to the next. The houses +and gardens had been built by H.H. Farman Farma, at one time governor +of Kerman, and must have cost a great deal of money.</p> +<p>We took up our quarters in the house at the top of the garden, and +after a few days our consul came out from Kerman and occupied the lower +one. We spent a very enjoyable month here, riding, shooting, bathing, +&c. My husband opened a dispensary for the villagers, to which he +went two mornings each week, and the people appreciated this very much, +as I do not think they had ever had an English doctor amongst them +before. We much enjoyed the use of the Persian “hammam” +(bath) while there. It comprised a series of rooms built a little way +off from the house; each room was built of marble and blue tiles. The +first or outer room was simply for resting in, having a fountain in the +centre; passing through this, you entered a large vaulted room, which +was used for a dressing-room and “cooling-down” place; from +this you passed to the actual hammam, which was a large tank of water +about 15 feet by 10 feet, and from 1 to 6 feet deep, shelving gradually +in depth from the edge. This had not been used for some years +apparently, but my husband had it cleaned out and filled with fresh +water, and we were very thankful for it during the hot weather. At +first we tried taking our afternoon siesta in the outer or +resting-room, but found it too feverish; however, we were able to sit +in it during the early part of the day, and generally had our Persian +lesson there, as it was easier to work in the cool. We always made our +holidays a time for language study, as my <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb66" href="#pb66" name="pb66">66</a>]</span>husband rarely could find +time for it while at work in the city, and we both longed to be able to +speak Persian properly. I must say the natives were always wonderfully +good and patient over our mistakes, and never laughed, however terrible +and feeble our attempts at conversation might be. Unfortunately, just +as we were beginning to feel our way in Persian a little, we had to +start learning a new language, so to a great extent we have forgotten +our Persian.</p> +<p>Our last holiday in Persia was spent in Aliabâd, a dear little +village about ten hours’ drive from Yezd. H.R.H. the Jalal el +Dowleh (nephew of the late Shah) kindly lent us a house there, and as +it was rather a small one, he erected a large tent in the garden for +us, which did duty as dining and sitting-room combined. The Jalal also +kindly lent us one of his carriages to drive from Yezd to +Aliabâd. The first part of the way the road was very good. We +left Yezd just before sunset, reaching our half-way place shortly +before midnight. Here we had to rest the horses till morning, so we +spent the night in a garden by permission of the owner. Spreading a rug +on the ground, and using two of the carriage cushions as pillows, we +spent a very comfortable night, and awoke in the early morning fresh +and ready for the second part of our journey. We were off before +sunrise, as we wished to reach our destination before the great heat of +the day began. I shall never forget that drive. For the greater part of +the way there was not even a semblance of a road, and the whole path +was strewn with huge stones and boulders; it was a marvel to me how the +carriage ever got safely over them. But oh, the jolting and +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb67" href="#pb67" name= +"pb67">67</a>]</span>the shaking! Driving up the Pyramids would be +smooth and easy compared to the horrors of that road! We repented often +of having accepted the kind offer of the carriage, as the saddle is +much more preferable on such roads. However, all things come to an end +to those who have patience; so at last this memorable drive ended, and +we were very thankful, about ten o’clock, to see the trees of our +village rising on the horizon. We found the little house very +comfortably arranged and breakfast waiting for us in the tent, as our +servants had pushed on instead of resting during the night.</p> +<p>Aliabâd contained, I suppose, some fifty houses, all of which +were occupied by Moslems of rather a fanatical type. It was surrounded +on all sides by mountains and hills, and this gave it a rather shut-in +feeling at times. After sunset, too, it was very chilly and damp, as +there were so many gardens lying under water at that time, this being +the usual method of irrigation. I wanted to make the acquaintance of +the village women, so I let it be known that I should generally be in +the garden during the morning, and should welcome all who came to see +me. In this way I saw most of the women, but they were not very +responsive on the whole. It was here, sitting in the garden one +morning, that I tried to learn from them how to “tell the +beads” according to the Moslem method, but I found it too +intricate and difficult. I managed, however, to master one very simple +method of trying the beads for good or ill fortune. This was as +follows: holding the rosary before you in both hands, you separate a +certain number of the beads; then, closing your eyes, you <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb68" href="#pb68" name= +"pb68">68</a>]</span>“tell” them, repeating the mystic +words “Adam, Eve, Satan,” until the last bead is reached. +If this happens to be “Adam,” the luck is sure to be of the +best; if “Eve,” the result is neutral, and the beads must +be counted again; while “Satan” indicates the worst of +fortune, and would absolutely prevent any one from undertaking any +contemplated action.</p> +<p>It was no uncommon sight to see the women counting their beads and +mumbling to themselves, “Adam, Hava, Shaitan (Adam, Eve, Satan), +Adam, Hava, Shaitan,” before making up their minds as to whether +they should drink their medicine or not. Or perhaps some patient has +been advised an operation, and he is trying his beads to see whether +the doctor’s advice is to be taken or not. It is a strange thing +that, when they <i>very</i> badly want to do a thing, they can +generally make it come to “Adam,” or else they keep on +repeating the words till it does come to the lucky name, and then they +are happy.</p> +<p>When we had been in Aliabâd some days the prince-governor of +Yezd brought his “anderoon” to the same village. Of course +there was no accommodation for them in the village, so they erected a +town for themselves. It sprang up in one night, and looked in the +morning as if a large company of soldiers had suddenly come along and +fixed their camp. The ladies’ quarters consisted of about twenty +large tents, and were enclosed by a huge canvas wall, quite shutting +them off from the outside world. The prince had his reception tents and +others outside the wall, but quite near to it. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb69" href="#pb69" name="pb69">69</a>]</span></p> +<p>A day or two after their arrival the princess sent down her carriage +for me, with a request that I would go and see her, which I gladly did, +and found her surrounded by all her home comforts, and dressed, as +usual, in some lovely silk costume. After this she always sent for me +about three times a week, and we had walks and talks together. Whenever +we came to a garden, she and her ladies always gathered the cucumbers +and onions and ate them, thoroughly enjoying the impromptu picnic, and +never giving a thought to the poor unfortunate owner, who dared not +voice a remonstrance, however much his garden was stripped of its +produce.</p> +<p>A eunuch or two always went before when the princess walked out, to +warn off any of the dreaded menkind who happened to be about. One day +the prince gave permission for his wife to come and call upon me. This +was the first time she had ever been allowed to pay a visit. I was +sorry we were not in our own house, as I should have liked to show her +an English home. However, we made the place as tidy and home-like as +possible for her reception. My husband had to be banished, and also all +the men-servants. Bagi (our woman servant) prepared all the +refreshments, but the princess’s own servants handed them to her, +as Bagi was a Parsee, and it would have meant defilement for a Moslem +to take food from a despised follower of Zoroaster.</p> +<p>The prince spent most of his time hunting, and my husband went with +him on several occasions. The sport did not seem to be very exciting, +from all accounts. The Jalal would take with him about thirty to forty +of his followers, and form a kind of <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb70" href="#pb70" name="pb70">70</a>]</span>cordon round the spot +where the gazelles were known to be; they then gradually closed in, +each rider knowing and keeping his own position. At last the gazelles +would be sighted, and all would gallop madly towards the spot, and +shoot as they got within range.</p> +<p>We were kept so well supplied with venison during those holidays +that I felt I never wanted to taste it again!</p> +<p>Quite near to Aliabâd there were some large caves in which the +natives had stored frozen snow, so that even in the height of summer we +were able to have a large block of ice every day.</p> +<p>Altogether our time at this little village was very enjoyable, and +we were quite sorry when our holiday was over and we had to return to +the broiling heat of Yezd. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb71" href= +"#pb71" name="pb71">71</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch6" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter VI</h2> +<h2 class="main">Social Life in Persia</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Kerman—House-hunting and building—White +ants—Housekeeping in Kerman—Servant question—Truth v. +falsehood—Abdul Fateh—Bagi—Recreations—Some +exciting rides—Persian etiquette—Dinner at the +governor’s.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Society is no comfort to one not +sociable.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The social life of Europeans in Persia differs very +much according to the town lived in. In some parts much life and gaiety +are to be found, and in others this element is conspicuous by its +absence. In Teheran, where we have our Legation, of course social life +is at its height. At Isphahan, too, there is quite a large European +community. When we were there in 1900 and 1903 there must have been at +least fifty Europeans, and very happily and sociably all lived +together. From Isphahan we went to Kerman, where for some five or six +months we were the only foreigners, but in spite of having none of our +own countrymen to call upon or visit, we were very happy. After a time +a British consul was appointed, and we felt quite gay, and I at once +started a European “at home” day, and every Wednesday our +consul was a most regular visitor. He was always very homesick, and +liked anything that helped to remind him of dear Old England.</p> +<p>On one occasion we actually mustered four <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb72" href="#pb72" name= +"pb72">72</a>]</span>Englishmen to dinner, as two travellers happened +to be passing through at the same time, one of whom was Mr. Savage +Landor, who entertained us with most harrowing accounts of his time +amongst the Thibetans. Just before we left two English ladies arrived, +so the social life at Kerman began to grow, and to-day it boasts of +quite a number of Europeans, consisting of consuls of various nations, +as well as missionaries, bank and telegraph employees.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e1374width" id="p072-1"><img src= +"images/p072-1.jpg" alt="House-Building in Persia " width="586" height= +"405"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">House-Building in +Persia</span></p> +<p class="first">The houses are built chiefly of sun-dried bricks of +earth and chopped straw, and then plastered on the outside. The bricks +are generally made on the premises.</p> +</div> +<div class="figure xd20e1382width" id="p072-2"><img src= +"images/p072-2.jpg" alt="Persian Shops" width="589" height="438"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Persian Shops</span></p> +<p class="first">A peep into the bazaars of Isphahan. In these open +shops all goods are exposed to view, and the passer-by is invited to +take a seat and inspect<span class="corr" id="xd20e1388" title= +"Not in source">.</span></p> +</div> +<p>When we arrived at Kerman we found great difficulty in choosing and +leasing a house. Many were only too anxious to show us their houses, +and to assure us that all their property belonged to us, to do what we +liked with; but when it came to making definite arrangements it was +quite a different matter. So long as it was only “talk” the +various would-be landlords were willing to promise everything and +anything, but it was quite another question when suggestions were made +as to the desirability of committing those promises to paper. At last +we settled on a house outside the town, which possessed a nice large +garden, but the house itself only consisted of about two rooms, and +these were in a very tumble-down and filthy condition.</p> +<p>The landlord (a Parsee) promised to build according to our plans, +and to spend the whole of the first three years’ rent in making +improvements and additions to the house. The consequence of this +delightful arrangement was that during the greater part of our time in +Kerman building operations were going on, and only just as we were +leaving was the work completed and the house made inhabitable. But in +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb73" href="#pb73" name= +"pb73">73</a>]</span>the end a very fairly comfortable house was built, +and has been occupied ever since, I believe, by our C.M.S. +missionaries.</p> +<p>Our garden was very large, but only half of it had been cultivated; +the further end we had hoped to have made into a tennis court, but +unfortunately we had to leave before it was possible to do so. All the +bricks used for building were made from the earth of the garden. The +process is simplicity itself. Water is mixed with the earth till it +becomes a thick mud, then it is stamped into the required shape by +means of a wooden block, and then left in the sun to dry. Sometimes +straw is mixed with the mud, when it is necessary to have very strong +bricks.</p> +<p>Directly we moved into our house I found to my horror that it was +infested with white ants. This was my first experience of these +wretched little creatures, and I hope it may be my last. They are +disturbers of one’s peace of mind, for once they are settled in a +house it is impossible to get rid of them, and the only thing to hope +for is that by continually waging war against them you may keep them +slightly in subjection. I remember so well the day I first made the +acquaintance of these noxious things. I had with much difficulty +succeeded in finishing our drawing-room, and considering all things I +may be forgiven if I confess to having felt a certain amount of pride +as I looked at the result of my labours. Certainly it was not too +luxurious; but it was comfortable and “homey.” Alas! my +pride soon had a fall. After a day or two my husband had need of some +book, and upon taking it from the shelf found it eaten half through! I +then <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb74" href="#pb74" name= +"pb74">74</a>]</span>began to hunt about, and found the room was +swarming with these abominations, under the carpets, behind the +pictures, cosily ensconced in books—everywhere they were having a +right royal time. From that moment almost to the day we left, I never +ceased to hunt and destroy these ubiquitous ants. We were having two +new rooms built, and I said to my husband, “One comfort is that +the ants cannot be in the new rooms;” but, alas, my hopes were +vain! The builders had used an old piece of wood for a beam on which +the ceiling rested, and this was infested with white ants, and so in a +very short time they had <i>that</i> room, too, to revel in. I tried +all manner of things to get rid of them, but found the most successful +remedy was pouring petroleum down the holes from which they came. This +drove them away from <i>that</i> hole, but they only burrowed a little +further, seeking for a new outlet. Nothing could or can destroy them. +As long as the queen ant remains they can never be exterminated. An +English engineer who came to Kerman told me that, when he was living in +India, he was building a house, and before he laid the foundations he +offered large rewards for all queen ants found in the grounds near, +for, said he, “This is the only way to ensure freedom from these +pests.” He also told me that one night he left his evening shoes +out in his room, and in the morning the leather was eaten half away. I +can quite believe this now, after having seen for myself their +tremendous digestive powers.</p> +<p>One of our missionaries had to leave Kerman quite suddenly while we +were there. Before leaving he packed all his most valued books into +tin-lined <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb75" href="#pb75" name= +"pb75">75</a>]</span>cases and had them soldered down, thinking they +would be safe against the intrusions of white ants. Shortly after his +departure we suspected these wretches of being at work amongst the +books, and so came to the conclusion we had better open and see. There, +sure enough, they were, and busily they had been engaged too, for like +“Mother Hubbard who went to the cupboard,” when we went to +the box we found it bare! if not quite, almost so; for, with the +exception of a few stout leather covers, all trace of Mr. +Blackett’s valuable library was gone! Such are the literary +instincts of white ants. But indeed nothing comes amiss to their +tastes—books, boots, pictures, carpets, clothes, papers—all +vanish under the business-like efforts of these horrible creatures. +What with white ants and bad servants to contend and combat with, +housekeeping in Kerman was enough to turn one’s hair grey! The +struggle was unequal, and I generally got the worst of it.</p> +<p>To begin with, the servants we had brought with us from Isphahan +refused to stay in such an out-of-the-world spot as Kerman, so no +sooner had we begun to unpack than first one and then another declared +his intention of going, until we were left stranded. Then began the +joys of servant-hunting. In some parts of Persia this is not a +difficult task, but in Kerman it was practically impossible to find a +decent servant, or one that knew anything about his work.</p> +<p>The chief drawback to Kerman domestics is the fact that they are all +opium-smokers. The native saying in Kerman is, “That every fourth +man out of three” is an opium-smoker. Although this may +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb76" href="#pb76" name= +"pb76">76</a>]</span>be a slight exaggeration, yet it was decidedly +hard to find any one who was not addicted to this terrible habit. Awful +specimens presented themselves as “cooks,” but one look at +them was enough! At last a veritable “Uriah Heep” offered +his valuable services to us; he came armed with wonderful credentials +and menu cards. These latter he claimed to have successfully negotiated +when in the employ of some Frenchman, but I have grave doubts as to the +veracity of this statement. On the strength of these menus we thought +we could not do better than engage him; so he came, and proved himself +to be a most aggravating specimen of humanity, specially formed, I +believe, to try the patience and tempers of poor unsuspecting +foreigners. Nothing ever put him out or ruffled his sweet amiability. +How I wished it would, and that he would depart in wrath and anger at +my repeated complaints against him! But no, nothing of the kind; he +came to stay, and stay he did, till he bade us an affectionate and +touching farewell on our departure from Kerman. His money accounts were +always atrociously high, but so cleverly did he manage them that I +could rarely detect him cheating, and at last I gave it up as a +hopeless task, concluding the game was not worth the candle.</p> +<p>When we were alone his cooking was passable—at least it was +generally eatable; but if ever we had friends to dinner he always +managed to surpass himself with some act of stupidity or wickedness, I +never could make out which it was.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e1422width" id="p076-1"><img src= +"images/p076-1.jpg" alt="Kerman" width="598" height="449"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Kerman</span></p> +<p class="first">A photo taken from the top of our house in Kerman, +showing the mountains in the distance and our garden in the foreground. +The circular roofs are those belonging to our kitchens, the round hole +at the top being the only means of ventilation.</p> +</div> +<div class="figure xd20e1429width" id="p076-2"><img src= +"images/p076-2.jpg" alt="A Street in Kerman" width="585" height="405"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Street in Kerman</span></p> +<p class="first">A corner of a street in Kerman, leading into the long, +covered bazaar.</p> +</div> +<p>On one occasion the English consul and one or two others were dining +with us. We had safely <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb77" href="#pb77" +name="pb77">77</a>]</span>reached the “sweet” stage, and I +was just beginning to congratulate myself that this time, at any rate, +our lovely cook was not going to disgrace himself or play any trick. +Just then a “chocolate cream” was handed round. It looked +all right. The consul took some, tasted it, and promptly laid down his +fork; his example was followed by others. I hastily called the +“boy” to bring me some, and on tasting it found to my +horror that the chocolate cream was highly flavoured with naphthalene! +We had lately received a box from home; in it was some of this useful +stuff for destroying moths; doubtless the cook thought it was a nice +and specially delicate flavouring for puddings! On another occasion I +had been experimenting on some dessert dish, which necessitated part of +the ingredients soaking for an hour or two over a slow fire. I put +everything ready, and left strict injunctions with “Uriah” +that he was to touch <i>nothing</i>, and so I left. Shortly after, +feeling rather uneasy as to the welfare of my concoction, I returned to +the kitchen, just in time to see the wretched man pouring my +“Dream of Delight” down the sink! I confess to having been +guilty then for the first and last time of boxing a servant’s +ears; but really was the provocation not great?</p> +<p>Another of our “treasures” was a man called Neamat +’allah. He was a splendid “show man,” but no good for +work of any kind. He shone when visitors came, as he felt the dignity +of his Sahib depended in a great measure on him.</p> +<p>Then there was an awful boy, Rustem. I did my best to make him into +a decent parlour-maid, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb78" href="#pb78" +name="pb78">78</a>]</span>but utterly failed. Although only about +eighteen years of age, he was a confirmed slave to the opium habit. His +chief <i>forte</i> was smashing crockery and telling lies. Of course we +never expected our servants to speak the truth, but this boy seemed the +most incorrigible of all. One day he said to me, after I had been +trying to instil into his mind some idea as to why we should speak the +truth, “Well, Khanum, what is the use of my speaking the truth, +for if I did you would not believe me, and would only say it was a +lie?” This is true, I am afraid, to a great extent, for after +being deceived so often one gets sceptical about the possibility of a +native speaking the truth, especially if he is an opium-smoker too. And +yet sometimes they look at you so innocently, with such an air of +injured righteousness, that you begin to wonder if after all they are +not for once speaking the truth; but, alas, the wonder soon passes!</p> +<p>Shortly before leaving Kerman we were fortunate enough to secure the +services of a real treasure in the person of an Indian. He came to +Kerman with his master, Mr. Patrick Duncan, whose object was to sink +artesian wells, but unfortunately he died before his work was +completed. His man, Abdul Fateh, was heartbroken at the death of his +master, as he had been with him for many years. He begged my husband to +engage him, and very gladly we did so, and he proved a great comfort to +us all our time in Persia, acting as “<span lang= +"fa-latn">pishkhedmat</span>” (chief servant), not only being +good and honest himself, but keeping the others up to their work, and +not allowing them to cheat us too much. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb79" href="#pb79" name="pb79">79</a>]</span>Before leaving the +subject of servants I must say just a word about our woman servant; she +was such a dear little body—a Parsee. We called her Bagi, which +means a female servant. She had been with Miss Sykes for a time, so +knew a little about Feringhi ways. She was a picturesque figure, +waddling about the house in her big baggy trousers and her gaily +coloured overall reaching to her knees, while on her head she wore the +usual number of coverings, in compliance with the Zoroastrian idea that +a woman’s head must be well covered! It is a great +“shame” for a Parsee woman to be seen with her head +uncovered. One day Bagi had been washing her hair, and the doctor +happened to see her in passing before she had replaced her many +coverings. She came to me in great distress to know what was she to do. +The Sahib had seen her with her head uncovered!</p> +<p>The recreations of Kerman are confined almost entirely to horse +riding. There are many very good picnic places near by, and an +excellent stretch of desert for a canter or gallop, but not so good as +the desert outside Yezd. When we first went to Kerman I was told that I +must on no account ride through the bazaars, as no Englishwoman had +ever been seen in them. I might ride outside the town and view the +bazaars from a safe distance, but this did not fall in with my ideas at +all, and as soon as we were fairly settled down in our house I asked my +husband to take me to see the bazaars. So one afternoon we started off +to try the experiment, taking with us two servants, one to walk in +front and one behind, my husband and I riding our horses. I will +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb80" href="#pb80" name= +"pb80">80</a>]</span>not say that as we entered the dark, +dreary-looking archways leading to the bazaars my heart did not beat a +little faster than usual, as I thought of all the horrible things which +had been told me as to what <i>might</i> happen when first an +Englishwoman was seen in the open bazaar. After a few minutes, however, +I saw there was nothing to fear, for beyond a good stare and a few +curses from some of the people, nothing happened. I had, of course, +taken the precaution of wearing a thick veil. My second ride through +these same bazaars was much more exciting. It was during the time of +the Passion Play in the month of Mohurram, referred to in another +chapter. As we were riding quietly along we suddenly came across the +whole company of excited, maddened creatures returning to their homes +after the play was over. The crowd was headed by about a hundred men, +whose garments were streaming with blood, their heads and faces covered +with gashes of all sorts and sizes. In their hands they held and waved +frantically their swords or daggers.</p> +<p>Our servants were fearfully alarmed, and hurriedly turned our +horses’ heads into a narrow passage, and hoped the crowd would +not notice us. But unfortunately they did, and with a wild cry of +“Feringhi! Feringhi!” they immediately formed up just in +front of the opening to our passage and began their wild dance for our +benefit. It was rather a gruesome sight in the dimly-lighted bazaars to +see a hundred or more naked swords flashing, blood on everything and +everybody, men yelling, shouting, cursing, and dancing. We were not +sorry <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb81" href="#pb81" name= +"pb81">81</a>]</span>when in a few minutes they took it into their +heads to move on, thinking, no doubt, that they had paid great honour +to the Feringhis by this exhibition for their special benefit. After +this experience I felt there certainly was no longer any need for fear, +and since then we have all ridden and walked quite freely in and +through the bazaars. Only once was I spat upon in Persia, and that was +in Yezd.</p> +<p>Persians have often been called the Frenchmen of the East. They +certainly are a most courteous and polite people, outwardly at all +events, and are masters in the art of paying compliments to one +another. But to a novice it is no light matter to know just the right +amount of flattery to deal out, as it is almost as bad a mistake to +give any one a great deal too much flattery as not to give him enough. +The art lies in knowing just what is due to each person, according to +the rank of life he occupies. When you wish to visit any one it is not +polite to send word to say, “I am coming.” You must couch +your message in much more flowery language, such as, “I want to +honour myself by coming to see your nobleness.” The answer will +be “Bis’millah—Please bring your tashrif +(dignity).” There is great etiquette, too, over the +kalian-smoking and tea-drinking, each one deprecatingly suggesting that +his neighbour should partake first and the other declining the honour +with a sweeping bow; but every one knows who is entitled to the first +whiff of the kalian or the first cup of tea, and no one would dare to +think of defrauding him of his right.</p> +<p>It seems such a pity that Persians of high class <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb82" href="#pb82" name="pb82">82</a>]</span>are +gradually falling into European ways, for they do not suit these +Frenchmen of the East half so well as their own manners and +customs.</p> +<p>While we were in Kerman the governor was one who had lived in Europe +a good deal, and liked everything done <i>à la</i> Feringhi; he +much enjoyed English afternoon teas, home-made cakes, &c. Soon +after our arrival there an invitation came from the governor for dinner +the following week. On the evening appointed a carriage came for us and +drove us to the “Arg,” as the house of the governor is +called. We found a splendid dinner waiting for us, served in French +style, about twenty courses of excellently cooked dishes. After dinner +we were amused by Persian musicians and singers. We were entertained by +the nephew of the governor, who apologised for the absence of his +uncle, who, he said, was suffering from a bad attack of fever which +prevented his presiding at the table. We heard afterwards that the real +reason of his non-appearance was not fever, but a fear of being laughed +at. He knew how things ought to be done according to European fashion, +and was afraid that he had not all the necessaries to carry out a +dinner successfully, and so preferred not to show himself. However, +when he saw how splendidly the first dinner-party went off he decided +to give another, so in about a week’s time we received a second +invitation to dinner. This time the governor himself took the head of +the table, and did the honours of it well, too. He certainly had +nothing to be ashamed of, for everything was served in perfect French +style. From the soup to the dessert, with all the intermediary +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb83" href="#pb83" name= +"pb83">83</a>]</span>courses, everything was dished up in perfect taste +and on good china. The glass and table decorations would not have +disgraced a European table.</p> +<p>The Governor of Yezd, on the other hand, preferred to hold more to +his own traditions, and I have much enjoyed a meal there with his +family, served and eaten in true Persian style. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb84" href="#pb84" name="pb84">84</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch7" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter VII</h2> +<h2 class="main">The Women of Persia</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Home life—Anderoon, women’s +quarters—Jealousy in the anderoon—Anderoon of Khan Baba +Khan—Two days in an anderoon—H.R.H. Princess +Hamadané Sultané—Visit to the anderoon of H.R.H. +the Zil-es-Sultan.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<p class="first">“The more your prayers to me, the more will your +wives be in Paradise.”</p> +<p class="signed"><i>From</i> <span class="sc">Life of +Al-Jazuli</span>.</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Women are weak, as you say, and love of all +things to be passive,</p> +<p class="line">Passive, patient, receptive, yea, even of wrong and +misdoing,</p> +<p class="line">Even to force and misdoing, with joy and victorious +feeling,</p> +<p class="line">Patient, passive, receptive; for that is the strength +of their being,</p> +<p class="line">Like to the earth taking all things and all to good +converting.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">A. H. Clough.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Whilst in Persia I had a good many opportunities of +becoming well acquainted with some of the Moslem women, especially in +Kerman, as there I was for some time the only Englishwoman, and +naturally the women liked to see as much of me as possible, in order to +see and hear about life amongst the Feringhis. The Persian women are +much more volatile and genial than their Arab sisters, but on the whole +I prefer the latter, perhaps because I have had so much more to do with +them. The Persian lady is ready, the moment she sees you, to shower +compliments upon you and to tell you how much she loves you, while her +more austere sister of Arabia takes time to consider whether you are a +person to be trusted or not; and if after a time she does give you her +love, it is something worth the having. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb85" href="#pb85" name="pb85">85</a>]</span></p> +<p>When I first went to Persia I found the questions of the women most +disconcerting, but after a time, if their conversation became too +objectionable, I always told them it was not our custom to talk on such +subjects, and they generally took the hint, at any rate for the time +being. When in Kerman I started an “At Home” for Moslem +ladies, and in this way I got to know some of them very well, and also +by visiting them in their homes. They quite liked the idea of an +“At Home” day, and I well remember our first one. About +twenty ladies came, each one attended by a slave or two and a small boy +to guard their shoes, which of course they left at the door. It was +quite a business unrobing all these ladies from their black silk +“chuddars,” and arranging each lady in her respective +place, according to the honour due to her. We had in our drawing-room a +long divan, about 12 feet by 6, occupying the whole of one end of the +room, and cushioned according to Eastern ideas. On this about twelve of +the ladies seated themselves and looked very comfortable and at ease, +while the rest sat on chairs arranged round the room, and looked most +uncomfortable and uneasy. By-and-by I noticed first one foot being +tucked up and then another, till most of the ladies were sitting native +fashion on their chairs, and it looked so curious I could hardly keep +from smiling. After all were settled, and their chuddars and veils +carefully folded up and put aside by the slaves, then the kalian or +water-pipe was brought in, each slave preparing the pipe for her own +mistress.</p> +<p>I had arranged that my woman-servant, Bagi, should hand round tea, +but the ladies were horrified <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb86" href= +"#pb86" name="pb86">86</a>]</span>at the idea of taking tea which had +been poured out by a Parsee, as they believed it would make them +unclean for I don’t know how long; so my poor Bagi had to take a +back seat and see others take her place. My next “At Home” +day I was wiser, and secured the services of the mother of our syce, +who was a Moslem, as I did not like to see a strange woman doing the +honours of the tea-table.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e1528width" id="p086"><img src="images/p086.jpg" +alt="The Mosque Gate, City of Kerman" width="720" height="494"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">The Mosque Gate, City of +Kerman</span></p> +</div> +<p>Amongst the ladies that day was the wife of one of the ex-governors +of Kerman, and the good lady did not let any one forget that fact! They +were always most interested in seeing and hearing all about Feringhi +life, and were specially interested in photographs and pictures. One +lady said to me directly she was seated, “I want to see a picture +of Jesus Christ;” and on my showing her one, she most reverently +kissed it and put it to her forehead. They much enjoyed listening to +our little organ, and one lady was so delighted that she gave her +husband no peace till he bought her one, and then nothing would satisfy +her but I must go and teach her how to play. As her instrument arrived +from Teheran with half its notes missing, it is easy to imagine that +her musical talent (?) was somewhat put to the test. However, she was +very proud of her instrument, and quite happy playing with one finger +an accompaniment to some weird Persian song.</p> +<p>Of “home life” in Persia there is none; there is no word +in their language for “home,” and so it plays no part in +their lives. Life in the home varies very much according to the rank of +the husband. The poorer wives and village women are blessed by being +obliged to work, but the better class have absolutely <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb87" href="#pb87" name="pb87">87</a>]</span>nothing +to do, from morning till night, but smoke, drink tea, and talk scandal. +The poorer wife is certainly the better off of the two, for she has to +rise early in the morning to get her husband his early cup of tea +before he goes off to work; then she has the house to look after and +the children to think of and sew for; and last, but not least, the +evening meal of pillau or kabob to cook ere her lord and master returns +from his labours; while her less fortunate neighbour has nothing to do +but to talk of the latest scandal of the anderoon, and then to pay a +visit to another anderoon to tell and receive the latest news +there.</p> +<p>The anderoon is that part of the house which is given up to the +women, and is as a rule the best part of the house, for there the men +of the house retire when their work is done, to be waited on and fussed +over by the womenfolk.</p> +<p>When a man is well off and has more than one wife, he generally +keeps them in separate compounds; but often two will be living together +in the same anderoon, and as a rule they do not love each other very +much.</p> +<p>The great and chief causes of jealousy in the anderoon are the +children, or rather lack of children. For instance, a young bride is +brought to her husband’s house, and for a time she is the pet and +favourite of her husband, and all is well; but if as time passes no +child comes to cheer her heart, then the husband soon tires of his new +plaything and looks about for a new and prettier one, till one sad day +the poor young wife hears that her husband is about to bring home +another to share her life and home. We <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb88" href="#pb88" name="pb88">88</a>]</span>can imagine what rage and +jealousy will burn in her heart, and how she will hate the new inmate +of the anderoon, and especially if after a time her enemy becomes the +mother of a boy. Then her hatred reaches a climax, and it is by no +means uncommon for her to have recourse to the “cup of +coffee” either for herself or her enemy. That “cup of +coffee” is a most useful (?) institution in Persia, as it is +often very difficult to detect the poison hidden therein.</p> +<p>It is impossible for us even to think of the miseries through which +some of these poor women pass; and if we see how unhappiness and +wretchedness is fostered in an anderoon containing two wives, how much +more miserable and awful must be the life when the number of wives is +multiplied by two or even more.</p> +<p>But while there are many unhappy anderoons, yet as “the +exception proves the rule” in most cases so it does here. For I +remember one home in which two wives were living in apparent peace and +happiness; but here, again, there was reason for their unity, as +neither of them had any children, and so there was no cause for +jealousy. Their husband was an aristocratic old man of about seventy +years of age, and he had taken these two young wives to cheer his old +age. He had a little son by one of his many former wives, of whom he +was passionately fond, and this boy was very ill for some months, +suffering from heart disease. His two young wives nursed this boy day +and night in a most devoted manner, and apparently really loved the +boy, and were very sorry when he died. It was owing to this boy’s +illness that we had the opportunity of spending two days in the +anderoon of Khan Baba Khan, and very pleasant and interesting +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb89" href="#pb89" name= +"pb89">89</a>]</span>days they were too. It was the year that we were +in Kerman, and we had just gone away for our summer holiday to that +lovely garden of Mahoon, when one day a very urgent messenger came to +my husband from Khan Baba Khan begging him to go and see his boy, who +was very ill. The old man had sent his carriage for us, with +instructions to his man to drive the doctor straight to his garden, +situated some sixteen miles on the other side of Kerman, where the boy +had been taken ill. As soon as we were ready we started off, but could +only reach Kerman that night, where we rested, and the next day arrived +at the garden of the Khan.</p> +<p>It was a very pretty garden, with plenty of trees and running water. +On our arrival we were ushered into the room prepared for us, and in a +few minutes the poor little invalid was brought in, and even then he +seemed to have the mark of death on his face; but he was a very +self-willed boy, and every one had to humour him in everything, as the +fits of temper which he indulged in were very dangerous for him in his +weak state of health. While the doctor was examining and prescribing +for the invalid in another room the two ladies came to see me, and +brought a very appetising dinner; chickens cooked to perfection and +pillaus formed the staple part of the meal. The ladies then retired, +and my husband and I thoroughly enjoyed our first meal taken together +in a Persian anderoon.</p> +<p>After dinner my husband again visited the patient, and the ladies +came to prepare our room for the night. This was quite an elaborate +undertaking. First of all, a huge mosquito net was fixed up by +attaching <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb90" href="#pb90" name= +"pb90">90</a>]</span>the four corners to tapes and nailing them to the +wall. The underneath part of the net rested on the floor; on this the +mattresses were placed, so that once you were inside the net you were +in what seemed like a good-sized room. In fact, during the next two +days we used to sit inside the net reading or writing, as outside there +was no respite from the plague of mosquitoes and sandflies. Sleeping on +the floor is very comfortable; in fact, I don’t quite see the +need of bedsteads, unless the room is infested with rats or other +creeping creatures! The next two days passed very pleasantly; whenever +my husband went out of the room, almost simultaneously I would hear a +voice at the window asking permission to enter, and the ladies would +come in for a chat. We became great friends, and this friendship lasted +till we left Kerman some months later, and then the Khan lent us his +carriage to drive to Yezd, as he wished to express his gratitude for +all my husband had done for his boy. Unfortunately the boy even then +was past human aid, and after two or three months of suffering he +died.</p> +<p>I have always been glad of these two days actually spent in a +Persian home, as it enabled me to see what their everyday life really +was; but as I have said, this was quite an exceptionally happy +anderoon, with none of the wrangling and quarrelling generally +connected with the homes of Persian women.</p> +<p>While in Yezd I met and soon became very friendly with a most +charming Persian lady. She was a daughter of one of the late Shahs, and +thus was a princess in her own right; her husband was a <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb91" href="#pb91" name="pb91">91</a>]</span>nephew +of the late Shah, so she was doubly connected with Persian royalty.</p> +<p>H.R.H. Princess Hamadané <span class="corr" id="xd20e1568" +title="Source: Sultanê">Sultané</span> was in many ways +quite unlike the majority of Persian ladies. She was a strong-minded, +clever woman, and was very anxious that her children should be brought +up in European fashion. These children certainly had a very good time +compared with other Persian children, as their mother refused to let +them become little women before they had passed out of +childhood’s days, and although they were then nine and ten years +old were generally playing with their dolls or other toys brought from +Paris for their amusement. The princess very much wished her children +to learn English, but I suggested that she should learn it herself +first and then teach it to her children. To this she gladly consented, +and so twice a week I used to go up and give her lessons. She quickly +got over the A B C stage, as she had some slight knowledge of French, +and took a great delight in picking out the words of an easy English +reader, and in a very short time she greeted me in very quaint broken +English: “Good morning; I hope you are well.” +Unfortunately, I had to leave my interesting pupil at this stage, as we +were leaving Persia for England, and I never saw her again; but I have +heard that she continued her English lessons for some time. I do not +think I ever knew any one with so many dresses as this princess had; +every time I saw her she appeared in a different costume, and always in +rich silks, satins, or brocades. I asked her once if she knew how many +gowns she possessed, and she confessed that she had no idea, and added +that it <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb92" href="#pb92" name= +"pb92">92</a>]</span>would not be at all right for me to see her more +than once in the same dress! And I certainly never did, although I was +visiting her twice weekly for some months.</p> +<p>This good lady exercised a very great influence over her husband (a +most unusual thing in Persia), partly, perhaps, on account of her +social position and also because she possessed a large amount of +property in her own right. Before she came to live with her husband in +Yezd she said she would only come with the understanding that she was +to be the only wife, and I believe the prince kept to the agreement as +long as she was with him. But he must have found it very hard, for I +have heard that before his wife came no girl dared be out after dusk, +so afraid were they of the prince and his courtiers.</p> +<p>One day I was visiting in the anderoon in company with the lady +doctor who was attending one of the children, and lunch was announced; +so the prince made us sit down with them and partake of the mid-day +meal. After lunch the prince amused himself by vaccinating all the +children he could lay hands on (not his own, but those of the +servants). The children did not seem to see the joke quite so much as +the prince did! They were much too frightened to run away, and stood +trembling in their shoes waiting for their turn to come. At that time, +too, no one in the anderoon dared say they had toothache, for if they +did immediately the prince would call for his forceps, and out would +come a tooth. Perhaps it might happen to be the offender, but just as +likely it would be an innocent tooth which had never given its owner a +moment’s pain! <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb93" href="#pb93" +name="pb93">93</a>]</span></p> +<p>I shall never forget the delicious coffee which was always served +when visiting at this house. It was a mixture, I believe, of coffee and +chocolate; and I have never tasted anywhere such coffee. I asked the +princess to give me the recipe, but my make never came up to the +original, and I think perhaps they did not mean it to!</p> +<p>The princess was very fond of sending to Paris for boxes of goods on +approval, and it was rather amusing to be there when the things +arrived. Sometimes most beautiful Parisian blouses would come, quite +unsuitable for her; but she loved to try them on and then put them +away, never, perhaps, to be looked at again. I have very pleasant +memories of my friendship with Princess Hamadané, and have as a +<i>yâd gari</i> (remembrance) a lovely silver tray of Persian +work, which she presented to me on our leaving Yezd; also the +photographs of her three children—two girls and a boy.</p> +<p>It is quite impossible to tell of all the interesting visits paid to +different anderoons; but I should like to mention some visits paid to +the anderoon of the Zil-es-Sultan, a brother of the late Shah. He was +then Governor of Isphahan, and my husband at that time was taking +charge of the medical work there for a year.</p> +<p>The governor one day sent his carriage, with the request that the +English doctor would go to see one of his wives, and also bring his +wife with him; so we went, and had a very pleasant three-mile drive +from Julfa to Isphahan. Arriving at the palace, we were met by the +chief eunuch and conducted to the anderoon, into a large room +surrounded by glass mirrors. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb94" href= +"#pb94" name="pb94">94</a>]</span>Here in a far corner, seated on the +ground, was “something” covered with what looked like a +large white sheet. This “something” turned out to be one of +the ladies of the anderoon, who was suffering from dimness of sight. +She was one of the prince’s favourite wives, and so he had taken +the trouble to allow her to see the doctor. After a great deal of +palaver she consented to lift a corner of her chuddar, and, while +shielding the other part of her face, to uncover her eyes. Her husband +was very anxious for her eyes to be thoroughly examined, and he ordered +a dark room to be speedily prepared, so that the examination should be +as complete as possible. While we were waiting for the room and lamp to +be ready the prince took out a little pocket-mirror from his waistcoat +and carefully looked to see if his hair was in perfect order, and then, +having satisfied himself that all was as it should be, he entered into +conversation with my husband over the state of his wife’s +eyes.</p> +<p>Another day I paid quite an informal friendly visit to two or three +of his wives. Each wife had a separate compound to herself, and her own +set of servants and slaves, and no wife was allowed to visit another +without special permission from the chief eunuch or from the prince +himself.</p> +<p>That afternoon two or three had asked for and received permission to +drink tea in the house to which we had been invited, so we had quite a +nice little tea-party, and a very gay one too so far as the costumes +were concerned; but the subject of dress being so stupendous, we will +leave it for another chapter. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb95" href= +"#pb95" name="pb95">95</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch8" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter VIII</h2> +<h2 class="main">More About Persian Women</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Costumes—Wedding festivities—Wedding +dinner—Kindness of Persian husbands—Story of +brutality—Divorce—Aids to beauty—Degradation and +cruelty of women.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Women are made by men:</p> +<p class="line">The nations fade that hold their women slaves:</p> +<p class="line">The souls of men that pave their hell-ward path</p> +<p class="line">With women’s souls lose immortality.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">John Davidson.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The indoor costume of the Persian women is not at all +pretty or graceful. It consists of a short, loose jacket, generally +made of some gaily coloured material, and in the case of rich women of +bright brocaded silk or velvet, and a very short skirt, just the length +of a ballet dancer’s. In fact their dress is an exact copy of the +Parisian ballet dancer. Many years ago all the women wore those +picturesque baggy trousers, with long flowing garments over them, but +while one of the late Shahs was visiting Europe he saw the ballet +dancer, and his fancy was so taken by the costume, that on his return +he ordered all the inmates of the royal harem to adopt the same dress; +and as royalty always sets the fashion for the country, in a short time +all the Moslem women of Persia had adopted this hideous fashion.</p> +<p>I remember so well the first time I saw this costume; it was the +evening of the day on which we <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb96" +href="#pb96" name="pb96">96</a>]</span>first arrived in Isphahan. After +dinner Miss Stuart (the bishop’s daughter) and I were walking on +the roof of their house, when suddenly a woman appeared on the other +side of a wall and began chattering with Miss Stuart. I felt inclined +to look the other way, thinking the good lady had forgotten to complete +her toilet, but seeing that Miss Stuart did not seem surprised, I +supposed it was all right, and so began to feel more at ease; but +certainly the first sight of these costumes is rather alarming, +especially if the woman is not wearing the long stockings, as they +generally do, but often leave off in very hot weather. On their heads +they wear a square of white muslin, and flowing down their backs, and +attached by a pin to their hair, is a long, graceful chuddar, generally +made of a pretty muslin or silk; and as the women walk about the house, +these chuddars flow behind, and look very graceful indeed. The ladies +do not like the fashion of the short skirts, and many were the requests +made to me to cut out dresses such as I was wearing, and if I had +wished, I could have had my time in Kerman fully occupied in cutting +out dresses according to European fashion; but with the exception of +pleasing two or three of my special friends, I always told them I had +no time for dressmaking, but would always be pleased to lend them +patterns. So ashamed were some of the women of their short skirts, that +they would often take their long, flowing chuddars from their heads and +wrap them round their waists, giving the appearance of a draped +skirt.</p> +<p>The outdoor costume of the Persian women is much more becoming than +the indoor, though it is decidedly hot in the warm weather. It is made +up <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb97" href="#pb97" name= +"pb97">97</a>]</span>of three pieces; the big voluminous trousers which +slip over the feet and cling closely to the shape of the foot, but +above the ankle fall full and baggy; over these are worn the large +black chuddar, the poor wearing black calico and the rich silk; and +then, covering the face, is the veil. This veil is a long strip of +white calico with open work for the part covering the eyes, and +fastened together at the back of the head by brass, silver, or gold and +jewelled clasps, according to the rank of the wearer. Through the open +work part of the veil the woman is able to find her way about, and see +all that there is to be seen, while no one can see the face behind the +veil.</p> +<p>To see a group of Persian ladies decked out in their silks and +satins is a sight not easily forgotten. There is nothing these women +love more than some festivity at their own or a friend’s house, +which gives them an opportunity of showing off their finery, and also +of meeting all their acquaintances, and having a good “gufti +goo” (chat). I was often invited when in Kerman upon these +occasions, but found, if I accepted all invitations, my time would be +taken up with going to betrothal feasts, weddings, &c., and so I +used to look in for a few minutes and then excuse myself. On one +occasion I went to a wedding at the house of one of the chief mullahs +of the town. I was asked to go at sunrise, but did not put in an +appearance till about nine o’clock. When I arrived, all the +guests had been there already some hours; it was certainly a very +pretty sight. Two large compounds were given up to the entertainment of +the bride’s party, while the bridegroom was holding his reception +in another house. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb98" href="#pb98" +name="pb98">98</a>]</span></p> +<p>As I entered the door leading into the anderoon, I could but stand +and admire the scene before me. Quite two hundred ladies were present, +each one dressed in gorgeous silks and satins, and all wearing the +graceful chuddar falling from the head. The majority of these chuddars +were of silk—Indian, Japanese, or Persian silks, all vying with +each other in their brilliancy and beauty. Some were rainbow silks, all +colours merging into each other; then again, others were gaily +flowered, and others “shot” or lustre silks—the whole +forming a wonderfully harmonious and striking picture, and I longed for +a camera that might give a true representation, both in colour and +vivacity, of this butterfly scene before me. To add to the gayness of +their attire, each married lady was wearing a spray or wreath of +flowers in her hair, and many carried or wore bouquets of roses. The +whole effect was charming, and formed a marvellous study of colour, +gracefulness, and Eastern beauty.</p> +<p>We have kept our hostess waiting quite a long time while we have +been admiring her guests, but now we must hasten to pay our respects to +her, and take our seat amongst this gay throng. I was alone that day, +being the only European woman in the town; but it will be much more +pleasant if my readers will come with me in imagination to that wedding +feast.</p> +<p>We are ushered into a large room full of gay ladies, who immediately +all rise from the ground as we enter, and salaam us. It is rather +difficult to know which is our hostess amongst so many, so we must be +impartial in our salutations, and pray God that <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb99" href="#pb99" name= +"pb99">99</a>]</span>“their kindnesses may never grow +less,” or “their hands never pain them,” &c. Then +we all take our seats, and conversation is resumed. The ladies will +begin with a series of questions, such as—</p> +<p>“How old are you?” “Have you a mother?” +“Why do you not black your eyebrows?” “Are you +happy?” “Is your husband kind to you?” “Do you +like him?” “How much did your dress cost?” and so on, +like a group of children—and when you think they have finished, +they will begin again. After a short interval tea is handed round. Tea, +did I say? well, it is dignified by that name, but in reality Persian +tea is not much more than sweetened water coloured with a drop of tea. +To begin with, the cups are very tiny, generally made of glass. They +are first filled up with three or four lumps of sugar, then a +teaspoonful of tea is poured over these, and water added until the cup +is full, and the result is—Persian tea! However, it is rather +pleasant to drink, and helps to pass the time. After a short interval +more tea is handed round, and then glasses of sherbet, made from juices +of different fruits, and then, for a change, coffee is served.</p> +<p>About noon, just as I am afraid we are all feeling very tired and +sleepy, a welcome change comes; a stirring and commotion begins in the +courtyard, women rush about with enormous trays on their heads and +carrying all kinds of dishes: this is but a prelude to dinner being +announced. Two large rooms are laid out for dinner; in each room about +one hundred guests sit down. I was taken in by the mother of the +bridegroom, so we will all pass in under her protection. (The mother of +the bride <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb100" href="#pb100" name= +"pb100">100</a>]</span>is not in evidence on these occasions, being +supposed to be overwhelmed with grief at losing her daughter.) The +“table” is the ground, so we must gracefully (?) sit on our +heels. On the “table” are over two hundred different +dishes—pillaus, chillaus, chicken, kabobs, vegetables, +fruits—all laid out in tempting array. The hostess having +pronounced the Moslem benediction, “Bismi’llah” (In +the name of God), all the guests fall to work in real earnest: very +little talking is done, eating being the business of the moment. Spoons +and forks were provided for me, but I preferred to do as they did, and +so ate with my fingers, though it requires a good deal of practice to +do it neatly and gracefully. As a mark of respect and honour, the +hostess from time to time breaks off pieces of meat from her portion +and places them on my plate, and once as a special mark of favour +placed a dainty morsel of chicken in my mouth. I hope my readers have +enjoyed their dinner as much as I have, for to my mind a Persian feast +is a most delectable entertainment.</p> +<p>After dinner we all washed our hands in a basin brought round for +the purpose, the water being poured from an ewer on to our hands by a +servant. Then we all retired to our reception-room of the morning, and +again tea and sherbet were handed round, and the kalian or water-pipe +was much in request, each lady taking a whiff and passing the long tube +to her neighbour.</p> +<p>But where is the poor little bride all this time? We have neither +seen nor heard her all day long, and yet the feast is supposed to be in +her honour. All through the long, hot June day she has been cooped +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb101" href="#pb101" name= +"pb101">101</a>]</span>up in a tiny room, and as sunset approaches her +friends and relations go to dress her and to decorate her from head to +foot with jewellery and finery. Into her hair is woven a quantity of +golden thread, so that in the distance it looks like a mass of gold, +and must be very heavy on the poor tired little head. She is brought +out into a large room, and seated on a chair in the middle of it; then +every one goes up to her, and after kissing her, says, “May you +be blessed.” The poor little mite (she might be thirteen years +old, but hardly looks it) seems absolutely wretched and miserable, and +when food is brought to her refuses to eat. Just at sunset she is taken +to her husband’s house in a closed carriage, and our hearts must +ache as we think of what is in store for her. Even if her husband is +kind to her at first, yet she has nothing much to look forward to but +misery and degradation, and if by chance she goes to an anderoon +already containing two or three wives, then may God take pity on her, +for her fate will be a sad one. As soon as a man marries a girl she is +absolutely his property, and he may do exactly as he pleases with her; +there is no redress for the poor unfortunate girl. If the man is a +brute and half kills his wife no one dare say a word to him, or if +perchance there is one brave enough, he will only be told that +“the girl is his wife, and he can do as he likes with his +own,” and so it is no wonder if the shadow of the future lies +darkly on the faces of those poor little children, as they leave their +mother’s home as brides to go out into the unknown which lies +before them.</p> +<p>I remember a poor little girl who was brought to the hospital in +Julfa, while we were there. She had <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb102" href="#pb102" name="pb102">102</a>]</span>been married to a +brutal man, when about eleven years old. Being very unhappy with him, +she often used to run away and take refuge with her mother, who lived +in a village a mile or two away from her husband’s house. On many +occasions he had beaten her severely for some childish fault, and each +time she had fled to her mother, and stayed with her till her husband +came and carried her off again by force. This went on for some time, +till the poor child’s life was nothing but wretchedness and +misery.</p> +<p>One day she displeased her husband by not cooking the dinner to his +liking, and he was so enraged with her that he behaved in the following +abominable manner.</p> +<p>First of all he saw that the windows of his house were barricaded +and the door locked: then he stripped the trembling, frightened child, +and deliberately poured paraffin oil all over her body, and finally set +a light to her and left her to her fate, taking care to lock the door +after him, as he went out. The neighbours, hearing the girl’s +screams, rushed to the house, but the doors being locked and the +windows fastened much precious time was wasted. When they finally +smashed open the window it was only to find the child a mass of flames. +They picked her up and rushed wildly with her into the street, and +dropped her into the nearest stream to quench the flames! It was a +marvellous thing to think that after all this there was any life left +in the poor child. The neighbours took her to her mother, who plastered +all her wounds with red earth and left her lying in the corner of the +room for some ten days. Then, taking the advice of some friends, they +procured a cradle and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb103" href= +"#pb103" name="pb103">103</a>]</span>lifted the poor wee child into it, +and hoisted the cradle and its occupant on the back of a donkey, and +took her some five days’ journey to Julfa. They had heard of the +Mission Hospital through some of their villagers, who had been treated +there, and so they brought this little victim of Persian cruelty to the +lady doctor, who took her in, dressed her wounds, and laid her in a +clean, comfortable bed. All that human love and kindness could do was +done to alleviate her sufferings, but nothing could save her life, and +after three days she passed away—a martyr indeed to the creed of +Islam, which enables and allows men to treat their women as something +lower than the beasts of the field.</p> +<p>Ought not the cries of distress and agony from the poor women of +Persia so to rouse us, their sisters in England, that we shall +determine to do all that lies in our power to lighten their burdens and +to bring some rays of light into the dark lives of our Eastern +sisters?</p> +<p>One thing which adds greatly to the misery of these women is the +ease with which their husbands can divorce them. A wife never knows +from day to day whether or no her lord may not divorce her. Often for +most trivial matters a man will cast away his wife. This being the +case, the woman will lie and deceive her husband in order to escape +divorcement. If the wives of Persia could only be raised to the level +of true womanhood I believe they would become good wives and mothers, +but while they are what they are, how can there be any hope for them? +There is nothing but utter darkness till the true Light shines into +their lives, and then and then only <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb104" href="#pb104" name="pb104">104</a>]</span>will the day break +for these downtrodden, degraded beings.</p> +<p>The Persian ladies are great beauty specialists, and bestow a good +deal of attention upon their complexion and general make-up. They do +not believe in beauty unadorned, for even when quite young they use the +rouge-pot very freely, and often use it to great advantage too! I have +often known a girl who was quite ordinary-looking, sallow and dark in +complexion, but when dressed for her wedding I hardly recognised her, +so changed was she by all the numerous “aids” to beauty. +Her cheeks were now a lovely rose tint, and her eyebrows darkened and +lengthened till they almost met in the middle, and the edges of her +eyelids were also blackened with “kola,” and really the +effect was very good.</p> +<p>They also spend much time and trouble in dyeing their hair with +henna, not only from a fear of grey hair, but also because the dull red +tint produced by henna is the fashionable colour.</p> +<p>The Persian lady has very little in her life to elevate or refine +her mind, and so we cannot wonder if at times we see in her many +revolting characteristics. When we think of all she has to endure, and +how little happiness comes to her lot, our wonder is that she retains +even a semblance of womanhood. Should we be any better under like +circumstances?</p> +<p>If a woman is treated continually as if she was nothing but a beast +of burden, is it to be wondered at that in some cases her nature +becomes almost as the beasts of the field? Weird stories are told of +the extremities to which women have been driven, and the cruelties +which they have perpetrated. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb105" href= +"#pb105" name="pb105">105</a>]</span></p> +<p>The following is one which I heard when in Persia. It was in the +days when famine was rampant throughout the land. There was a certain +man of high position who collected and stored all the corn he could +gather, and then refused to sell at anything but famine prices; finally +he was arrested and sent to Teheran, where he was tried and condemned +to death. The Shah could not determine on the manner of death to be +ordered for this rascal, but at last decided to hand the unfortunate +man over to the mercies of the royal anderoon to be put to death by +them. The ladies and women servants consulted together, and decided to +keep the wretch in their quarters and kill him by inches, day by day. +The method they chose was to cut him to pieces with scissors till he +died!</p> +<p>I cannot vouch for the truth of this story, and I trust it is not +true, but I give it to you as I heard it. But one thing I know to be +true, and that is, when a Persian woman is once roused to anger, +jealousy, and passion, there is hardly anything too dreadful for her to +contemplate doing, in her longing for revenge. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb106" href="#pb106" name="pb106">106</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch9" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter IX</h2> +<h2 class="main">Some Points in the Moslem Faith</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Fasts and Feasts—Seyyids, dervishes, +mullahs—Legends of the drowning mullah, and the yard square +hole.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<p class="first">“Religion’s all or nothing.”</p> +<p class="signed"><span class="sc">R. Browning.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">There are five things which every true Mohammedan must +either believe or do. The first is the declaration of their faith or +“Kalimat.” “I declare that there is no God but God, +and Mohammed is His Apostle;” “La Allaha il Allah wa +Mohammed rasool Allah,” this is the all-important witness, and +must be continually recited by all true believers. Secondly, Moslems +are bound to repeat prayers five times a day—at daybreak, noon, +shortly before sunset, during twilight, and an hour after dark. I do +not say all Moslems do repeat prayers at each of these times, but that +is their rule, and those who consider themselves <i>good</i> Moslems +adhere most righteously to these set times for prayers. Needless to +say, it is but a form of words and position, any slight error in +posture taking away all the benefit to be derived from the prayer. +Often in Persia women have said their prayers in our drawing-room, if +the call to prayer sounded while they were visiting me.</p> +<p>Living in the East, one gets very fond of the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb107" href="#pb107" name="pb107">107</a>]</span>call +to prayer, heard from some neighbouring minaret. The first sound that +catches the ear at daybreak is “Allah, Allaho Akhbar” (God +is most great), repeated four times. “La Allaha il Allah wa +Mohammed rasool Allah”—this is said twice, and then other +calls and invocations, always finishing up with the final declaration +of “Allah, Allaho Akhbar.”</p> +<p>There is a great difference in the way this call to prayer is +chanted, some men having most melodious voices, others harsh and +grating; but wherever a true Moslem may be when he hears this call, he +lays aside his work at once and begins to repeat his prayers, bowing, +prostrating, touching the ground with his forehead, &c., till the +duty is finished, when he returns to his work, perhaps to his cheating +and his lying, for this repetition of prayers has no effect on his life +or manner of living.</p> +<p>Thirdly, all good Moslems are supposed to give voluntarily to the +mullahs a tithe of all they possess, also alms to the poor. In the +Koran we read, “Prayer carries us half way to God, fasting brings +us to the door of His palace, but giving of alms procures +admission.” In many cases the mullahs are provided for entirely +by the freewill offerings of the people, all gifts being sent +anonymously.</p> +<p>Fourthly, every true believer is expected to undertake, if at all +possible, a pilgrimage, preferably to Mecca, but if that is out of the +question then to Kerbela or Meshed. The former, of course, brings the +greatest merit, and men and women <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb108" +href="#pb108" name="pb108">108</a>]</span>will do all they can to +perform this pilgrimage. On their return they are treated with great +respect, and looked up to as little gods. They generally think so much +of themselves after having performed this wonderful act of self-denial +that they become quite unbearable to their friends. There is an Arabic +proverb which shows the effect this pilgrimage to Mecca is supposed to +have on the pilgrim. It is as follows: “If your friend has been +to Mecca, trust him not. If he has been there twice, avoid him. But if +he has made the pilgrimage three times, then flee from him as you would +from Satan himself.”</p> +<p>Women often undertake these pilgrimages, spending weeks or months it +may be over the journey, but resting for ever afterwards in the great +glory and honour resulting from it.</p> +<p>The fifth point to be observed by Moslems is that of fasting during +the month of Ramadan. This lasts for thirty days, and is a real +hardship for the poorer people when the fast falls during the summer, +as from sunrise to sunset not a morsel of food or drop of water may +pass their lips—or, as the Koran expresses it, from “the +time you can distinguish between a white thread and a black, then keep +the fast until night.” For the rich and idle it is no great +effort, for they simply feast and revel all night and sleep by day, but +for the servants and labouring class it comes harder, as they must work +by day and cannot sleep properly at night. Children are always very +anxious to begin fasting, and often little mites of five or six will +tell you with great pride that they are keeping <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb109" href="#pb109" name="pb109">109</a>]</span>the +fast. They generally start by fasting for half days, and how proud they +are, and how they gloat over other children who have not yet begun this +work of devotion! Perhaps what the people who fast miss more than +anything else during Ramadan is their smoking: they are such slaves to +this habit, both men and women, that it is almost life to some of them, +and they find it very hard to go without. When the cannon booms forth +the hour of sunset, giving the Prophet’s permission to his +faithful ones to break their fast, generally the first thought, after +moistening their lips with water, is that now they may enjoy their +smoke, either of a cigarette or kalian.</p> +<p>Mohurram is the month of mourning, when all the country mourns for +Hassain and Hussein, the martyred sons of Ali, who are looked upon by +the Shiahs as the rightful successors of the Prophet. During this +season the majority of the people go into deep mourning, and the +bazaars are sometimes draped in black. It is in this month that the +great Passion Play of Persia is enacted, and while in Kerman we were +fortunate enough to have an opportunity of witnessing this +“tazieh,” as the Passion Play is called. It certainly was a +sight worth seeing at least once in a lifetime.</p> +<p>The tenth day of this month of Mohurram is the one set aside for +this festival, and is kept as a general holiday, so that all might go +to see the great spectacle enacted on that day in memory of the death +of Hassain and Hussein, the two grandsons of Mohammed.</p> +<p>The Governor of Kerman had kindly invited us to view the performance +from his house, and accordingly <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb110" +href="#pb110" name="pb110">110</a>]</span>that morning at about eight +o’clock he sent his carriage for us, and we were driven through +the packed bazaars till we arrived at his house, or “Arg,” +as the governor’s residence is called in Kerman. We were at once +admitted by a private entrance, and ushered into a large verandah, +which had been set apart for the use of Feringhis. As my husband and I +were the only Europeans in the city at that time, we had it to +ourselves. Here, before the commencement of the Play, we were regaled +with tea, coffee, jam, bread, cheese, and cakes. Looking out, the sight +was a wonderful one. In front of us was a large garden in which I +suppose some 10,000 people were gathered. At one end of the garden was +a large “hoze” or tank of water, over which was spread a +huge awning, and near by a large pulpit from which the mullahs preached +to the people, and tried to rouse their feelings to a high pitch of +excitement. One man was specially successful in doing this, causing the +women to wail wildly and beat their breasts frantically, and the men to +smite their heads. After a delay of about an hour, the performance +began with a long procession, which entered the garden at the far end +and wound in and out till it had traversed the whole garden. This +procession represented the family travelling as captives after the +death of Hassain and his brother.</p> +<p>First of all came six gaily decorated camels, with men riding upon +them, beating drums and making a tremendous noise. Then came more +camels carrying the tent furniture and other goods, followed by horses +and mules laden with heavy loads. After these came four stretchers +borne by men, on which lay four dead <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb111" href="#pb111" name="pb111">111</a>]</span>bodies (figures +stuffed) representing Hassain and his three brothers, who perished from +want of water, which had been cut off from them by their enemies. On +each dead body sat a dove, supposed to be mourning. Then came a +horrible sight, one which I never wish to see again. About a hundred +madly excited men dressed in long white robes, armed with swords, were +slashing their heads until the blood was streaming down their faces on +to the robes, white, alas, no longer! As they reached the tank of water +they formed into a line all round it, and kept up for some length of +time a horrible kind of war dance. It was a ghastly sight. The dancers +looked more like demons than men. One poor man fainted from loss of +blood, and had to be carried away, and a little boy of about eight +years of age also collapsed. It was bad enough to see grown men cutting +themselves, but to see the little children being wounded in this way +was terrible. This is, of course, looked upon as a work of great merit. +The more numerous and deeper the gashes, the greater the merit they +accrue to themselves. The wild dance was continued till a sign was +given to the dancers by the governor, that he had seen enough to +satisfy him. Then they all lined up in front of the verandah where the +governor was sitting, and demanded that five notorious prisoners should +be released from the prison close by. He at once acceded to their +request, as it was the custom at this festival for the governor to +release from the prison any prisoners who are interceded for by these +wild, fanatical dancers.</p> +<p>After this ghastly sight came a motley crowd of men and children on +horses, all beating their breasts or heads. Some of the riders were so +tiny that <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb112" href="#pb112" name= +"pb112">112</a>]</span>they had to be held on to their steeds by +men-servants.</p> +<p>Then came another body on a bier, with a man dressed in a +lion’s skin, embracing and fondling the dead body. It looked so +weird to see the pseudo-lion kissing and hugging the remains of its +late friend and master, and expressing in various ways great sorrow and +anguish over its loss.</p> +<p>After this came several batches of boys stripped to the waist, all +beating their breasts. It was really a very pretty sight, for the boys +kept such perfect time, one boy acting as leader, like a group of +children performing gymnastic exercises. As their hands simultaneously +clapped their breasts, there was a sharp report, at which they all +shouted “Hassain! Hussein! Hassain! Hussein!” The whole +proceeding was an interesting but sad spectacle, which I shall never +forget. The clash of swords, the beating of drums, the weird wailing of +the women, accompanied by their spasmodic shrieks, the shouting and +yelling of the fanatical mob, all contributed to the making up of one +of the most notable scenes of Eastern life. And yet it made one’s +heart ache to watch this crowd of human beings for whom Christ died, +and who as yet know nothing of Him, but are only anxious to obtain +merit for themselves by taking part in these gruesome religious +performances.</p> +<p>All over Persia “religious men” are much looked up to +and respected. Of these the dervish is one very much to the fore. He is +a religious mendicant, having taken a vow either for a certain time or +permanently. The vow is not a very strict one, only consisting of +poverty and obedience to a <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb113" href= +"#pb113" name="pb113">113</a>]</span>chief, to whom a portion of the +alms received must be paid.</p> +<p>These dervishes wander from place to place, chanting, singing, and +begging. The natives do not like to refuse them anything, from fear +more than love, perhaps, as it is considered meritorious to give alms +to these religious people.</p> +<p>They generally dress in dirty white, wear their hair long, and carry +an axe or club, more often than not beautifully chased and inlaid, also +the well-known dervish bowl, which is made from a huge nut, carved and +decorated. Often these dervishes will come and seat themselves in the +courtyard and begin their monotonous chant, and it is very difficult to +get them to move, as the servants will never use force, and their +reiterated requests to “move on” meet with no success +whatever till the dervish is satisfied that he has extracted all the +“backsheesh” likely to be forthcoming.</p> +<p>The Seyyids are another class of people much respected in the +country. They claim to be the direct descendants of the prophet +Mohammed, and are allowed many privileges on account of this. They wear +a green turban or waistband, to be known of all men. Looked upon as a +religious body, the natives are afraid to offend them in any way.</p> +<p>Then there are the “mullahs,” or priests of the Islamic +faith. They exercise a great deal of power over the people, but are +not, as a rule, loved by them over much.</p> +<p>The Persians are Shiah Mohammedans, whilst the Arabs and Turks are +Sunnis. As the former <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb114" href= +"#pb114" name="pb114">114</a>]</span>know very little Arabic, the +reading of the Koran is to them an unknown tongue, and they regard +their “mullahs” as “sacred men,” able to +interpret the “Holy Book.” Thus the Shiah priest gains +great influence, not to say considerable wealth, in Persia, and the +Shah himself fears the influence of the priesthood. The Sunnis, on the +other hand, know Arabic, as a general rule, and many of them are able +to consult the Koran for themselves, the result being that the +“mullah” gains but little influence compared to the +“Shiah” priest, and is often quite poor. Briefly, the Shiah +priesthood is comparable with that of the Roman Catholic Church of +Christendom, while “Sunni” mullahs do not claim, or would +claim in vain, any such authority, thus more nearly resembling the +“status” of Church of England clergy. The result is +obvious: Persia is a priest-ridden country; in “Sunni” +lands the people are freer, and dare think for themselves. It is a +well-known fact that a Persian mullah will exact the uttermost farthing +from his followers, but will never lend a helping hand to them in their +need. For instance, if a man dies without an heir, his property +according to law goes to the poor, but unfortunately it has to be done +through a medium, and that medium is the mullah. He promptly pockets +the property and gives its <i>supposed</i> value (valued, mark you, by +himself) to the poor. We can imagine what a large percentage the poor +receive of that property.</p> +<p>Here is a story which was told us in Kerman, illustrating how loath +the mullahs are to give anything away. The scene is a large pool of +water, in it a mullah struggling to reach the bank, and in <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb115" href="#pb115" name= +"pb115">115</a>]</span>danger of drowning. A passer-by, seeing his +distress, runs to his aid and cries, “Give me your hand, oh my +lord, and I will pull you out.” “No, indeed,” answers +the mullah, “I have never yet given anything to any one, and I +certainly will not begin now.” The kindly passer-by, not liking +to leave the mullah in his sad condition, tries to think of another way +out of the difficulty. Suddenly a bright idea strikes him, and running +to the priest, he calls out, “Will you <i>take</i> my hand, then, +oh my lord?” “Gladly,” says the mullah, and allows +himself to be drawn out of his perilous position.</p> +<p>Another rather good story is told, showing the meanness of the +priests. A man had agreed to pay a workman eight krans (2s. 8d.) for +digging a hole one yard square. At the end of the day the workman had +only dug a hole half a yard square, so the master went to a mullah to +ask him how much he ought to pay the workman. “Why, of +course,” says the mullah, “half the sum agreed upon, that +is, four krans.” After deliberating awhile he said, “No, +two krans is enough,” and this decision he gave as final, +although he impressed upon the man that one kran was all he could +legally claim, as he had scientifically only done one-eighth of his +work!</p> +<p>In the next chapter we shall see a little of another religious sect, +which is fast becoming a power in Persia. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb116" href="#pb116" name="pb116">116</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch10" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter X</h2> +<h2 class="main">Other Religious Sects</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Other religious sects—The Báb and +Babism—Short sketch of life of the Báb—His +imprisonment and execution—<i>Parsees</i>, or +Zoroastrians—Persecutions of Parsees in seventh +century—Sacred writings of Parsees, +Zendavesta—Fire-worshipping—Fire temples—Holy +fire—Parsee wedding—Costume of women—Death +customs—Burial customs.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<p class="first">“How many crimes have in religion’s name +been wrought.”</p> +<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Lucretius.</span></p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Too oft religion has the mother been</p> +<p class="line">Of impious act and criminal.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Lucretius.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The founder of Babism was a native of Shiraz, by name +Mirza Ali Muhammed, born in 1820; it was not till 1844 that he publicly +proclaimed himself to be The Báb or Gate, through which all who +wished for peace and happiness might pass into the inner chambers of +mysticism and sacred mysteries. He soon gathered a large following +around him, and in an astonishingly short time the fame of the +Báb was noised abroad throughout the length and breadth of +Persia. At first the Government and mullahs paid little attention to +this new religion, thinking and believing it to be only a passing fancy +of the people, but in its second year it took such rapid strides that +they began to be alarmed, and to look about for means of checking its +progress. The Báb was placed in prison, and his followers were +forbidden, on pain <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb117" href="#pb117" +name="pb117">117</a>]</span>of death, to teach or discuss their new +religion. Soon afterwards, however, the Báb escaped, and fled to +Isphahan, where the governor of that city protected him for some +months, but on the death of the governor the Báb was again cast +into prison. During his imprisonment he was not idle, for he wrote many +books, setting forth his doctrines, and exhorting his followers to +remain firm to their new faith in the face of all opposition and +persecution.</p> +<p>While the Báb was busy in prison, his followers were also +busy, preaching and teaching, and by all means trying to extend the +doctrines of their leader, and so great was the opposition and strife +raised that the Government decided that the Báb must forfeit his +life as a means of putting a stop once and for all to this new and +dangerous sect. Accordingly the Báb was brought from Tabriz, +where he had been imprisoned, and after a mock trial was sentenced to +death. On the day appointed for his execution an enormous crowd +gathered to witness his end—many from curiosity, and also many +from love and pity for the youthful martyr, who to the last maintained +the calmness and courage which had characterised his whole term of +imprisonment.</p> +<p>To make the lesson more emphatic, it was decided that two of the +Báb’s chief disciples were to be executed with him. One of +these at the last moment recanted, and so was allowed to go free. It +was said that his recantation arose not from cowardice or fear of +death, but from a special revelation given to him, whereby he was +commanded to recant in order to be able to carry <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb118" href="#pb118" name="pb118">118</a>]</span>away +all books and papers belonging to the Báb, and deposit them in a +safe place: however that may be, it is known that after an interval of +two years he too became a martyr. Efforts were made to entice the other +disciple to recant, but all proved unavailing, and he and his master +the Báb were suspended, by ropes placed under their arms, to a +beam placed a few feet from the ground. As they hung thus the disciple +was heard to say, “Master, art thou satisfied with me?” and +then the order was given to fire. When the smoke cleared away the body +of the disciple was found to be riddled with bullets, but no Báb +was visible. What had happened? Had a miracle been performed, and an +angel been sent to rescue him from the hand of his persecutors? This +was the thought of some, and, indeed, a miracle had been performed, for +in spite of the many bullets which had been aimed at him not one had +touched the Báb, but had only brought him deliverance by +severing the ropes which bound him, so that he fell to the ground +unhurt. At first it seemed as if the multitude would have pity on the +unfortunate man, and spare him a second attempt, but these feelings +were only of short duration, and the Báb was again dragged forth +from his hiding-place, where he had taken refuge, and was a second time +suspended. A fresh batch of soldiers had to be told off for the +execution, as the first company absolutely refused to fire again. This +time there was no intervention, and in a second or two the body of the +young martyr of Shiraz was pierced with bullets. The bodies were cast +out to the jackals, but were afterwards recovered and buried +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb119" href="#pb119" name= +"pb119">119</a>]</span>in Teheran by the order of the new Báb, +Mirza Yahya.</p> +<p>This event took place in 1850, and in spite of persecutions, +oppositions, and cruelties, the Babis continued to grow in number and +strength, and to-day they form a very large and important community +throughout Persia. In fact, by the very barbarity of the persecutors +their own end was defeated, for all the people were astonished at the +heroism and fortitude displayed by the martyrs. Professor +Brown<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1814src" href="#xd20e1814" name= +"xd20e1814src">1</a> says, “Often have I heard Persians who did +not themselves belong to the proscribed sect tell with admiration how +Suleymán Khan, his body pierced with well-nigh a score of +wounds, in each of which was inserted a lighted candle, went to his +execution singing with exultation.” The effect of such courage +and heroism was only to stir up more people to be disciples of the +Báb, as the following story shows.</p> +<p>During the persecutions in Yezd, a young man went to scoff and jeer, +but when he saw with what courage the martyrs endured torture, and met +death, he called out, “I am a Babi, kill me too.” While we +were in Yezd the Babis were keeping very quiet, but, nevertheless, a +great work was going on amongst them, but none dared say, “I am a +Babi.” A year or two after our departure from Persia we heard of +terrible cruelties and persecutions enacted against these suffering +people, but in spite of all, their number continues to grow and +increase throughout the whole land of Persia, and to-day the Babis are +stronger and more numerous than ever before. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb120" href="#pb120" name="pb120">120</a>]</span></p> +<p>The Parsees of Persia are another most interesting and important +sect: they live chiefly in Yezd and Kerman. They are a people within a +people, living in Persia, and with the Persians, yet keeping quite +distinct from the present inhabitants of the land. Only a few thousand +of this large and influential body of people, who up till the seventh +century were the inhabitants of the land, now remain in Persia. When +the armies of Mohammed conquered Persia, most of these people fled to +India; others preferred to adhere to the new religion, while a few +remained faithful to their old belief, and refused either to flee to a +new and strange country, or to change their creed, and so they remain +till this day a distinct people, following their own customs, and +holding to their own religion amidst a new and domineering nation.</p> +<p>The founder of the Parsee religion was one called Zoroaster. Very +little is known of his life; his birthplace is uncertain, though it is +known he lived for many years in Bactria of Eastern Persia, and it is +probable that it was in this place that he thought out the idea, from +which in later years he constructed his religious system. The priests +of this religion were the “magi” of the Old and New +Testament, and it is very likely that at least one of the “wise +men of the East” who went to offer their adoration to the +new-born King was from these Parsees of Persia.</p> +<p>The date of Zoroaster is very uncertain too. It is known, however, +that in the sixth century B.C., when Cyrus was king, the Zoroastrian +religion was firmly established in Western Persia. Some <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb121" href="#pb121" name= +"pb121">121</a>]</span>historians give him a date between 1000 and 1400 +<span class="sc">B.C.</span></p> +<p>The sacred writings of the Parsees are called the Zendavesta, and +are said to be inspired by God through one of their priests. This +priest, having cleansed and bathed himself in the most careful manner, +lay down to sleep clothed in pure white linen. He is said to have +fallen into a deep sleep, from which he did not awake for seven days; +at the end of which time he awoke and recited the faith of the +Zoroastrians, while priests in waiting committed the whole to writing. +In this way was the Zendavesta reduced to the form of a book.</p> +<p>While fire-worshipping forms a large part of their religion, it is +quite a mistake to suppose it comprises the whole, for Zoroaster laid +down many laws concerning morality and the duties and destiny of +man.</p> +<p>The Parsees of to-day, as seen in Kerman and Yezd, are a fine race; +their commercial ability is very much above that of the ordinary +Persian, and they are a much cleaner and more moral set of people than +their conquerors. They regard fire as something sacred, as being the +symbol of their god, and nothing will induce them to treat fire +lightly. For instance, we could never persuade our Parsee servants to +blow out a candle; and smoking is prohibited on account of their +religious principles, though nowadays many do smoke in secret. Their +habits of cleanliness and continual personal ablutions have perhaps +contributed to make them the healthy race they are to-day. A good +Parsee will wash <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb122" href="#pb122" +name="pb122">122</a>]</span>many times a day, always before and after +praying, as well as on many other occasions.</p> +<p>All Parsees wear a girdle round their waists, twisted into three +knots in a most complicated and intricate way. Whenever they wash they +must take this off, and after their ablutions are over they replace the +girdle, repeating certain prayers for each knot. These three knots +represent the threefold cord, which is not easily broken, of good +thoughts, good words, good deeds.</p> +<p>There are said to be some thirty or forty fire temples still +existing in Yezd, and in these the holy fire is always burning; the +light is never allowed to go out, it being the work of the priests to +keep it continually bright and trimmed.</p> +<p>The office of priesthood descends from father to son, and besides +attending to the religious needs of the people, the priest is also +supposed to look after their temporal necessities, especially in the +case of poverty-stricken families.</p> +<p>Parsee women have a much freer life than their Persian sisters; they +go about the streets quite openly, never veiling their faces, and +altogether enjoy a much better position than the Mohammedan women. In +some cases the women are even allowed to eat with the men of the +house—a great concession indeed! The children are bright, and in +many cases clever. When seven days old an astrologer is consulted as to +the future of the infant; and when seven years old a boy is blessed by +the priest, who invests him with the sacred girdle, at the same time +throwing upon the child’s head portions of fruit, spices, and +drops of perfume. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb123" href="#pb123" +name="pb123">123</a>]</span></p> +<p>Girls are married when quite young, and the astrologer is again +consulted on this important matter. When in Yezd we were invited to a +Parsee wedding, and a very interesting sight it was. The +invitation—which was written in letters of gold, and arrived some +days before the date fixed for the ceremony—was acknowledged and +accepted by us with much pleasure, as we were anxious to see something +of the customs of these interesting people.</p> +<p>When the day arrived we arrayed ourselves in gala attire, and set +out to the house of the bride. It was just midnight when we arrived, +and already the guests, some hundreds of them, had been feasting for +hours—in fact, I might say “days,” for this was the +seventh and last day of the wedding festivities, and many of the guests +had been present each day. They all looked thoroughly worn-out and +tired. A room had been set apart for the Europeans to dine in, and just +after midnight a most sumptuous dinner was served, consisting of about +a dozen courses. When this had been satisfactorily disposed of we +dispersed to visit the different rooms occupied by the guests, my +husband remaining with the men, while I and another English lady sought +out the bride to give her our salaams and good wishes. The confusion +was terrible—drums beating, cymbals clashing, women dancing and +singing, children yelling and crying, and amid it all, seated upon the +ground, sat the poor little bride-elect. No one seemed to be taking +much notice of her, every one apparently aiming to amuse herself in the +most noisy way possible.</p> +<p>By-and-by a large, silk-covered cushion was brought out from a back +room, and on this the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb124" href= +"#pb124" name="pb124">124</a>]</span>bride was placed, and covered +entirely with a large silk shawl. I wondered what was going to happen +next, when suddenly a group of men appeared at the door. These were the +representatives of the bridegroom, who came to ask formally for the +hand of the bride. They came and stood in front of the covered-up +bride, and called in a loud voice, “Oh, my daughter, will you +consent to be the bride of this man?” (naming the bridegroom). +This was repeated six times amidst a silence which could be felt, all +listening for the answer of the bride. On their repeating the question +the seventh time, a very timid “Balli” (Yes) was heard +coming from the region of the shawl, upon which the commotion started +again with redoubled vigour, in the excitement caused by the acceptance +on the part of the bride of her bridegroom. Of course this was a mere +form, as everything had been arranged long beforehand. I shocked one +good old lady by asking what would happen if the bride had said +“No” instead of “Yes” to the oft-repeated +question!</p> +<p>After receiving this very satisfactory answer to their inquiries the +men went off, and the women began to prepare the bride for the last and +most important part of the programme—viz. that of taking her to +the home of the bridegroom. They covered her with a large silk chuddar, +and over her head threw a thick shawl, so that the poor girl could see +nothing, and had to be led and supported on each side by her proud +relatives. The distance between the two houses might perhaps have taken +five minutes to walk in an ordinary way, but that night we took quite +an hour. The procession was headed by two <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb125" href="#pb125" name="pb125">125</a>]</span>“vakeels” +(agents), who were bargaining the whole way as to the dowry of the +bride. Every now and then they would come to a standstill, and the +bride’s vakeel would refuse to go a step further till more money +had been paid, and after a great deal of shouting, gesticulating, and +wrangling, the bridegroom’s vakeel would end by throwing some +coins into the other’s hand, and then the procession would +proceed for a few steps till blocked once more, while the whole process +of bargaining was gone through again. Fireworks were going off the +whole time, and were apparently laid along the route, for every now and +then we were startled by having a rocket fly up from beneath our feet. +About every twenty yards or so we came across huge bonfires of dried +faggots right in our path, and the whole procession had to wait till +these had died down before they could pass on. Arriving at the door of +the bridegroom’s house, a final and most exciting scene took +place between the two vakeels, the one threatening even then to take +the bride away, and the other, getting more wildly angry every minute, +declaring he did not want the bride, and would not pay a +“para” (½d.) more for her, and ending up by giving +the sum bargained for. If we had not known it was all part of the +ceremony, we might have expected the two men to come to blows; but it +all ended happily, and we trooped into the new home of the bride. Then +came a long time of weary waiting, during which my sympathies went out +to the tired, frightened bride; but just as we thought there was +nothing more to wait for, three interesting scenes took place. The +first was the actual marriage <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb126" +href="#pb126" name="pb126">126</a>]</span>ceremony, in which a priest +read many long prayers from a book, and then tied the couple together +with a silk thread and pronounced a blessing upon them.</p> +<p>The second scene took place in the open courtyard, in the centre of +which was burning the sacred fire placed on a pedestal. The priest and +parents of the bride and bridegroom now joined hands with the happy +couple and walked in solemn single file round and round the fire, the +priest chanting the whole time; this was done seven times, and then all +retired quietly, leaving the fire burning in the court.</p> +<p>To the third and final scene only a favoured few were admitted; +fortunately I was amongst that number. Into the room prepared for the +newly-married couple the little wife was now led, and for the first +time the coverings were taken from her head and face. She was placed on +a huge silk-covered mattress, then the husband came and took his seat +by her side: both of them were looking thoroughly miserable! One of the +women then brought a copper basin and ewer filled with milk, and the +bridegroom proceeded to wash his wife’s feet in milk, and she in +her turn washed his hands. This done, we all bade farewell to the +newly-married couple and the wedding ceremony was at an end. Hastily +saying good-bye to our host and hostess, and expressing our good wishes +for the welfare and happiness of the young people, we made our way +homewards, to find it was not very far off dawn, but having thoroughly +enjoyed our first experience of a Parsee wedding ceremony.</p> +<p>The costume of the Parsee women is rather <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb127" href="#pb127" name= +"pb127">127</a>]</span>quaint and pretty; it consists of very baggy +trousers gathered in at the ankle. These trousers are often made of +very pretty pieces of embroidery joined together. As soon almost as a +girl can sew she begins to embroider strips of brightly-coloured +materials in order to have them ready for her wedding trousseau. Over +these garments they wear a loose shirt reaching to just below the +knees; this is also made of strips of different coloured materials, or +in the case of a bride is also embroidered. Then comes the head-dress: +it is far beyond my powers to say of how many pieces this is composed, +or as to how they are arranged. The number of coverings on their heads +is legion! First comes a little tight cap fitting closely over the head +and ears. Over this is arranged in a most marvellous way some six or +seven different pieces of calico or linen, the top one of all generally +being a very bright calico, a mixture of red and yellow being the +favourite pattern. The men are obliged to wear dowdy colours as a mark +of submission to the powers that be. For the same reason also they are +not allowed to ride through the bazaars, and if a Parsee is riding +outside the city and meets a Moslem he promptly has to dismount and +walk till he has passed his more fortunate neighbour; <i>then</i> he +may resume his riding. This is, I believe, the case even if the Moslem +be a poor man and the Parsee a flourishing merchant.</p> +<p>To pass from life to death. A Parsee when he is dying sends for the +priest, who anoints him with sacred juice, repeats some verses from the +“Avesta,” and prays for a safe crossing of the +“bridge” and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb128" href= +"#pb128" name="pb128">128</a>]</span>admission into Paradise. As soon +as the breath has left the body, a dog is brought in from the street to +ascertain if life is really extinct. This idea originated evidently +from the old Zoroastrian idea that the evil spirit is expelled from a +dead body by means of a “four-eyed dog” being brought in +and made to look at the dead, the extra “two” eyes being +represented by two black spots over the brow of the dog. The body is +then placed on a bier and carried to the Towers of Silence, or +“dakhmehs,” by men specially set apart for that purpose. +These men are looked upon as unclean from their contact with the dead, +therefore only those whose work it is to do so will touch the body, the +cleansing necessary after defilement from contact with the dead being +so exacting and laborious.</p> +<p>On arriving at the dakhmeh, prayers are recited by the priests and +the body laid on an iron grating, so that when the vultures and other +birds of prey have done their horrible work, the bones fall down and +are safe from molestation by dogs and jackals.</p> +<p>The dakhmehs, always some distance from the town, are built in a +circular shape, some of the largest being 200 or so feet in diameter. +They are generally built on rising ground, and form a landmark for many +miles around.</p> +<p>Prayers for the dead are said for three or four days after the +death, and holy fire is kept burning in the house of the deceased +during the whole of that time, as the soul is not supposed to leave the +body till the fourth day after death.</p> +<p>The better-class Parsees “mourn” for a year after the +death of a near relative; that is, they keep up <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb129" href="#pb129" name= +"pb129">129</a>]</span>certain ceremonials for that length of time, and +offer flowers and fruits on behalf of their dead.</p> +<p>The Parsees have a governing body called the Anjiman. This consists +of a number of leading men, representatives of each class of society. +The Persian Government acknowledges the Anjiman, and accepts one of its +number to act as its representative. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb130" href="#pb130" name="pb130">130</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1814" href="#xd20e1814src" name="xd20e1814">1</a></span> “A +Year amongst the Persians.”</p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch11" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter XI</h2> +<h2 class="main">Desert Delights</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Songs of the desert—Sunsets, sunrises, +mirages—Illness in the desert—Mehman khanehs, +caravanserais—Chappa khanehs—Lost in the desert—Its +cruelties, and sadness.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“The desert wide</p> +<p class="line">Lies round thee like a trackless tide</p> +<p class="line">In waves of sand forlornly multiplied.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">F. W. Faber.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">To a lover of the desert a journey across its +boundless tracts is always full of interest and delight. It is strange +what an attraction the desert has for some people, and stranger still +is the fact that this magnetic power increases as time passes, and +instead of wearying of the wilderness, they love it more and more. And +any one who has once heard the call of the desert is always longing to +answer that call, and to fly once more, as a needle to its magnet, to +that great, wondrous world. For it <i>is</i> a world of its own, this +great, boundless ocean of sand—a world altogether different from +any other part of God’s earth.</p> +<p>I once heard an address on “The Desert,” and the speaker +said that he did not think it possible for any one with an uneasy +conscience to bear the solitariness of the desert. Be this as it may, +one thing is sure: no one can live and travel in the desert without +feeling the majestic Presence of God. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb131" href="#pb131" name="pb131">131</a>]</span>Everything speaks of +Him, the great sea of sand, the flowers springing into blossom at His +word, the tiny lizard darting across your path, and other countless +creatures, all finding life and sustenance in the desert, each telling +of the wonderful Creator who watches over and cares for all.</p> +<p>The songs of the desert, too, are fascinating; songs which, heard +elsewhere, would seem incongruous and lacking in harmony. The camel or +mule bells, booming out in the silence of the night, remind one of home +and loved ones. Often have I been awakened in the night by the sound of +the caravan bells, and for a moment thought they were the bells of the +dear old church in Devonshire. Then, again, the crooning songs of the +muleteer, as he trudges along hour after hour, have a peculiar charm, +which grows on one wondrously after a while. And what can be said of +the marvellous mirages—visions which come as messengers of hope +and leave us victims of despair? For who has not experienced relief and +joy at the sight of some beautiful mirage, resembling the welcome sight +of a village with trees and water, all apparently within easy reach of +the weary traveller, but which in a moment of time vanish, leaving +blank disappointment behind. And where can be seen such glorious sunset +effects as in the desert? especially when, as is so often the case in +Persia, the desert is surrounded by mountains and hills, which catch +the after glow, and reflect all those indescribable shades of crimson, +gold, and blue, all merging into a beatific and not easily forgotten +vision.</p> +<p>But to come to the more practical side of desert life. Travelling in +the desert is not all a path of <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb132" +href="#pb132" name="pb132">132</a>]</span>roses, but, given good +health, fine weather, and pleasant company, it is a very enjoyable way +of passing two or three weeks. On the other hand, I know of nothing +more wretched than being overtaken by illness when far away in the +desert. <i>Then</i> you feel how utterly alone and helpless you are, +for it is impossible to travel on, and at the same time well-nigh +impossible to stay where you are! We have had this experience more than +once during our many travels, and found it not at all pleasant. Once I +was taken ill in this way, and the only place to be found as shelter +was a filthy stable, full of rats, cockroaches, and other horrible +creatures.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e1929width" id="p132-1"><img src= +"images/p132-1.jpg" alt="A Mountain Pass" width="587" height="407"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Mountain Pass</span></p> +<p class="first">The traveller from Resht to Teheran passes through +very varied scenery. Beginning with beautiful forests of walnuts, +planes, willow, and olives, he soon loses this wealth of vegetation as +he ascends the Elburz, and once these mountains are crossed, the track +lies chiefly through the desert, with its ranges of mountains away in +the distance.</p> +</div> +<div class="figure xd20e1936width" id="p132-2"><img src= +"images/p132-2.jpg" alt="A Caravanserai" width="586" height="408"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Caravanserai</span></p> +<p class="first">A specimen of one of the “hotels” of +Persia. These caravanserais are built in the form of an open square. +The rooms are situated round the quadrangle, while the courtyard is the +resting-place of camels, mules, horses, and donkeys.</p> +</div> +<p>If you wish thoroughly to enjoy a journey across the desert, you +must choose your time well and wisely. The best time is the early +spring, before the great heat begins. If it is essential to travel +during the summer, all the stages have to be done by night, and this is +much more tiring, as it is seldom possible to sleep during the day +owing to the pest of flies, mosquitoes, and other lively +companions.</p> +<p>The rest-houses of Persia are of three grades or kinds, viz. +“mehman khanehs,” “chappa khanehs,” and +caravanserais. The first of these three are found between Resht and +Teheran. They are supposed to be run after the plan of a European +hotel! Beds are supplied, and sometimes a tooth-brush and comb! The +traveller is shown into a room in which the beds are kept ready for all +passers-by: it is not thought necessary to change the bedding too +often! The furniture consists of a washstand, table, and couple +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb133" href="#pb133" name= +"pb133">133</a>]</span>of chairs, and everything is as dirty as can be. +I much prefer the ordinary caravanserai, which is found all over +Persia. These are generally built by a wealthy man who wishes to do +some “good deed,” to make a name for himself, and gain +merit in Paradise. A caravanserai is not the cleanest spot on earth! +But after travelling a little you get used to a certain amount of dirt, +and are very much surprised if by chance you come across a fairly clean +rest-house. These caravanserais are built, as a rule, in the form of a +square, the sides of which are occupied by rooms leading off the +courtyard, the centre being the resting-place of mules, donkeys, +horses, and all other kinds of animals. At the end of the stage you fix +on the cleanest of these rooms, and your servant sweeps all the +accumulated dirt and dust of ages into one corner, thus raising a cloud +of dust and disturbing the peace of myriads of “pilgrims of the +desert.” After waiting a few minutes to allow the dust to settle +a little, you then furnish your room for the night by spreading a rug +on the filthy floor, and setting up your travelling beds, chair, +tables, &c. As likely as not, there will be no door to the room, so +you knock in a couple of nails and fasten a curtain over the doorway to +keep out the prying eyes of your too near and inquisitive neighbours. +Then you begin to think about your evening meal, and your servant goes +off to bargain and wrangle over some unfortunate fowl, the result being +that in about an hour’s time your dinner is ready, and shortly +after you very thankfully retire to rest, hoping for the best.</p> +<p>The chappa khanehs, or post-houses, are often <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb134" href="#pb134" name="pb134">134</a>]</span>a +trifle cleaner than the caravanserai. Here the animals are kept for the +post, and any one travelling “chappa” is supposed to find +fresh relays of horses at each of these places, but very often the +number is short, and the poor, wretched, underfed animal has to do duty +for a second stage: a “stage” is anything from fifteen to +thirty miles. My husband once rode “chappa” from Yezd to +Kerman, a distance of 250 miles, in 2½ days, to attend an +English doctor who was very ill with typhoid fever. It was very hard +and rough riding; the roads were bad, the horses worse, some of the +animals being blind, others lame, while the majority of them were so +over-worked and badly fed that it seemed impossible that they could +ever do the stage. A doctor once riding in this way to visit a +European, is said to have arrived at one of these post-houses, and +finding no horse, demanded a mule. On this beast he made the next +stage, to be told on arrival that there was only a donkey available. +Nothing better presenting itself, he accepted this mount, and in time +reached the next stage, where he was met with the comforting +announcement that the only animal at liberty was a cow! History seems +uncertain after this point, so we will draw a veil over it!</p> +<p>Sometimes these caravanserais and chappa khanehs are the only signs +of life to be seen at the end of a stage. There they stand, alone, +surrounded on all hands by vast stretches of desert, and form a +landmark for miles around. One such I remember very well, as each time +we passed that way it seemed to have become more lonely and desolate. +Visible from a distance of 5 farsakhs (18 miles), it made <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb135" href="#pb135" name="pb135">135</a>]</span>the +stage seem very long! The atmosphere is so rarefied that distant +objects appear near, and the buildings, which were in reality 15 miles +away, looked quite close at hand. In this chappa khaneh we were once +guilty of inscribing our names on its already well-filled walls. Some +years after a lady was visiting us in Mosul, and told us she had read +our names in that far-distant chappa khaneh.</p> +<p>It is not a very pleasant sensation to be lost in a desert. Only +once did this experience befall us, and then we were glad when it was +over.</p> +<p>We were on our way from Yezd to Kerman, and had reached the second +stage out. We had arranged with our muleteer to start at a certain hour +that morning, but when we came down from the “<span lang= +"fa-latn">bala khaneh</span>” (upstairs room) where we had been +sleeping, we found no signs of our caravan being ready to start. After +loitering about for some time, we decided not to wait any longer, but +to ride on ahead. This was quite contrary to our usual custom, as we +always found it wiser to see the caravan off first, otherwise the +muleteers dawdled half the morning away. However, we thought this once +we would alter our plans, as the dawn was even then breaking, and we +knew that in a very short time the sun would be scorchingly hot. So off +we went, telling our servant to follow as soon as possible. We received +minute instructions as to which direction we were to take, and thought +we could not possibly mistake our road.</p> +<p>Outside the town, on the edge of the desert, we came to two roads, +one leading straight ahead, the other branching to the left. We decided +to take the former, thinking it looked more trodden, thereby +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb136" href="#pb136" name= +"pb136">136</a>]</span>showing more signs of traffic. So we went gaily +on. My husband occasionally remarked, “I hope we are on the right +road,” and I always lightly answered, “Oh yes, I am sure we +are,” as I pointed out to him the fact that we were following the +same path along which another caravan had evidently passed a few hours +before. Howbeit we were <i>not</i> on the right road, as we very soon +found to our cost. By this time the sun was blazing down upon us, and +we began to wonder why our servants and caravan had not caught us up. +Time went on, and not a sign of life was to be seen. Standing in our +stirrups, we scanned the horizon, but nothing could we see but the +scorching sand. We then began seriously to think that we had taken the +wrong turning and were lost. Lost in the desert, without a drop of +water or a scrap of food! Pleasant thoughts these were as companions! +We could not go back: to go forward was worse than useless. After +considering a little as to the best thing to be done, we decided to +gallop on till we came to a small hill to be seen in the distance. This +we accordingly did, and as we neared the summit saw to our great +thankfulness a tiny speck on the horizon in the direction from which we +had come. This “speck” soon developed into a moving object, +and by-and-by we could see the figure of a man and horse galloping +hard. As the horse and rider came nearer, our thankfulness was indeed +great to see that the rider was our own servant, George. If ever we had +cause for thankfulness it was then, and we certainly said, and felt +from our very hearts, “Alhamd’ llillah” (Praise be to +God!), and vowed we would never stray <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb137" href="#pb137" name="pb137">137</a>]</span>away again from our +caravan unless we were quite sure of our road.</p> +<p>Our man was so delighted to see us safe and sound that he wept for +joy. After a long delay the caravan had at last started from the chappa +khaneh just as the sun was rising, and set out upon its way. They were +all surprised to think we had gone so far, but concluded at first that +we had galloped on in order to reach the lunching-place before the +great heat. On arriving at the spot, however, great was their dismay to +find we had not yet arrived. Our servant immediately rode back to the +village to make inquiries. On his way he met a man who told him he had +seen us riding off in the opposite direction. George immediately took +the path indicated, with the result already told. By the time we +regained our caravan we were well-nigh worn out with heat and thirst, +having been under the blazing sun without food or water for most of the +hottest hours of the day, but very thankful to be on the right track +once more.</p> +<p>One thing that saddens a European traveller during a journey in +Persia is to see the cruel way in which the muleteer often treats his +animals. The sufferings of these poor beasts are terrible. I often +longed to be able to thrash the muleteer for his cruelty to a poor, +long-suffering little donkey. Bowed down, maybe, under a load twice his +own size, the poor ass does his best to keep up with the other animals, +but only receives kicks and hard knocks for his pains. The wretched +creature is urged on and on by having a steel or iron instrument run +into some horribly sore place by his kind <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb138" href="#pb138" name="pb138">138</a>]</span>and compassionate +owner. Often have I seen a mule or donkey stumble and fall beneath its +enormous load, unable to raise itself, till its master with blows and +curses comes to lend a hand. Again and again will this happen, till at +last the poor beast can go no further, and is left to its fate. Death +is the kindest master some of these suffering creatures possess.</p> +<p>I remember once seeing a mule unloaded, and the sight under the +pack-saddle was enough to make one’s heart ache. A deep wound +about twelve inches long was exposed to view, just under the arch of +the saddle, where all the heaviest pressure and friction came. The +owner then heated till red hot a long wire rod, passing it through and +through this wound till the poor creature was nearly mad with pain and +agony. The next day a boy was ordered to ride this wretched beast, but +the stench from the wound was so great, and the flies attracted by it +so numerous, that he could not endure it, and asked to be given another +animal. This request was granted, but the poor brute of a mule had to +pay the penalty by receiving an extra load upon his poor wounded back. +At the first town we came to, the muleteer sold this mule, doubtless to +some one who would work the last particle of strength out of him. Poor +burdened beasts of the desert! one can only hope for them a speedy end +to their troubles, and rest hereafter.</p> +<p>Another sad sight to be seen in the desert sometimes, are brick +pillars in which some unfortunate victim has been walled up alive. This +is a horrible method of inflicting capital punishment. The victim is +put into the pillar, which is half built up in readiness; <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb139" href="#pb139" name="pb139">139</a>]</span>then +if the executioner is merciful he will cement quickly up to the face, +and death comes speedily. But sometimes a small amount of air is +allowed to permeate through the bricks, and in this case the torture is +cruel and the agony prolonged. Men bricked up in this way have been +heard groaning and calling for water at the end of three days. At other +times the victim is placed in the pillar head first, and in this way he +is walled up.</p> +<p>The first time I saw these pillars was in the desert outside Yezd, +and I could hardly believe the awful tales which were told me of the +cruelties perpetrated; but alas, they were all too true! It is sad that +the beauty of the desert should be desecrated by such things. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb140" href="#pb140" name= +"pb140">140</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch12" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter XII</h2> +<h2 class="main">Persian Medical Missions<a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1994src" href="#xd20e1994" name="xd20e1994src">1</a></h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">The need of them—Work in Isphahan—The +“little devil” transformed into a +boy—Amputation—Brothers in adversity—H.R.H. +Zil-es-Sultan as a patient—Fanaticism overcome.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“What restless forms to-day are lying, bound</p> +<p class="line">On sick beds, waiting till the hour come round</p> +<p class="line">That brings thy foot upon the chamber stair,</p> +<p class="line">Impatient, fevered, faint, till thou art there,</p> +<p class="line">The one short smile of sunshine to make light</p> +<p class="line">The long remembrance of another night.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">H. E. Hamilton +King</span>.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">“Medical Missions” need no apology or +excuse. Even in the comparatively few years that have elapsed since +their commencement, they have abundantly justified their existence, +both from the missionary standpoint, and also as philanthropic +agencies. If this be true for purely pagan lands, it applies even more +accurately to work in Mohammedan countries. Medical missionary work is, +without doubt, the golden key that unlocks the door of the heart of the +most fanatical Moslem, be he Persian, Arab, Kurd, or <span class="corr" +id="xd20e2019" title="Source: Yezedee">Yezidee</span> (devil +worshipper). I write this deliberately, after eight years’ +experience in Persia, Palestine, and Mesopotamia. But in this book it +is not meant specially to emphasise the missionary aspect of our life +in these distant lands, but more to give a slight glimpse of +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb141" href="#pb141" name= +"pb141">141</a>]</span>native life as we found it, and the following, +therefore, must be taken as notes from a doctor’s diary, covering +a period of eight years’ work in Persia and Mesopotamia.</p> +<p>The year 1900 found us at Isphahan. We were living in Julfa, the +Armenian suburb of that great city, and I had temporary charge of the +C.M.S. Medical Mission. The hospital at that period was simply a native +house that had been adapted, more or less, for the requirements of a +dispensary and hospital. There was no lack of work, patients coming +from Isphahan itself, and from all the country round about. Soon after +settling down to the routine work, a little Persian boy was brought to +me from an outlying village by his father. He was about twelve years of +age, and his face was badly disfigured from a “hare-lip.” +The Persians believe that this congenital malformation is the mark left +by the foot of the Evil One, so this poor boy was known in his village +by the unenviable title “little devil,” and had been a good +deal tormented by his playfellows. He was admitted to hospital, +operated upon successfully, and after some ten days’ careful +treatment the dressing was finally removed, and I handed the boy a +mirror that he might look for the first time upon his “new” +face. As I watched his countenance while he regarded himself +steadfastly in the glass, I was amply repaid for the time and trouble +spent, by his look of joy, incredulity, and amazement. Tears of joy +rolled down his face as he kissed my hand, and murmured brokenly, +“I am no longer a little devil, I am no longer a little +devil!” He could go back to his village now gladly, no longer +fearing <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb142" href="#pb142" name= +"pb142">142</a>]</span>to join in the games of his comrades, and I feel +sure he afterwards often posed as a hero in his little village, as, the +centre of an admiring throng, he recounted the details of his visit, +treatment, and cure at the Mission Hospital.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2028width" id="p142-1"><img src= +"images/p142-1.jpg" alt="A Very Ancient Bridge" width="584" height= +"401"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Very Ancient Bridge</span></p> +<p class="first">Built over the river which divides the city of +Isphahan from its Christian suburb of Julfa.</p> +</div> +<div class="figure xd20e2035width" id="p142-2"><img src= +"images/p142-2.jpg" alt="A Typical Street in Baghdad" width="513" +height="419"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Typical Street in +Baghdad</span></p> +</div> +<p>In all Mohammedan lands, doctors always find it extremely difficult +to persuade their patients to submit to amputation. However hopeless a +condition the injured limb may be in, many would rather die than enter +Paradise maimed. Some perhaps fancy that after death, when the prophet +Mohammed comes to conduct them over that fragile bridge that leads to +the “realm of the blest,” he would indignantly repudiate +the claims of an armless or legless disciple! However that may be, the +fact remains that many a poor patient dies who might, by timely +amputation, have recovered and lived for many years. But curiously +enough, soon after our arrival in Julfa, I admitted, within a few days +of each other, two Persians suffering from diseases of the legs +necessitating amputation, and both, after much persuasion, agreed to +the operation being performed. Both were men, and had been admitted to +different wards, but as after-events proved, neither knew of the +other’s presence in the hospital: both thus believed that +<i>he</i> was the only Mohammedan doomed to pass the rest of his life +bereft of one leg, with the possible risk of non-admittance hereafter +to the Moslem Paradise.</p> +<p>The two amputations were duly performed, on different days; the +amputated limbs being at once handed to the relatives for decent +interment. Both patients made good recoveries, their progress being +somewhat retarded by their continual lamentation <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb143" href="#pb143" name="pb143">143</a>]</span>over +their irreparable loss. In due course of time, crutches were provided, +and the two men were encouraged to practise walking with their aid. A +day or two later I was standing at the door of the operation theatre, +which opened into a corridor, with which both the men’s wards +communicated. Suddenly the doors of each ward opened simultaneously, +and on the threshold stood these two men, leaning on their crutches, +their faces a perfect picture as they beheld each other. Remember that, +in some curious manner, neither had heard of the presence of the other +in the hospital, and both firmly believed that <i>he</i> was the only +Mohammedan that had ever submitted to the indignity of losing a limb, +and lo and behold, here was a brother in affliction! Crutches were +hurled on one side, and the two men, hopping across the corridor, +excitement lending them the needed strength, fell into each +other’s arms, rolling over and over on the floor, weeping, +condoling, exclaiming, while we watched the scene, highly amused, but +also feeling inclined to weep in sympathy.</p> +<p>The Governor of Isphahan was H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan (Shadow of the +King), elder brother of the late Shah. In former years he had been much +more powerful, and practically ruled over Southern Persia, but his +enemies in Teheran roused the suspicions of the Shah against him. He +was summoned to the capital, and there kept a prisoner in his house, +but ultimately allowed to return to Isphahan shorn of his former +power.</p> +<p>The Zil-es-Sultan had his own private physician, but would often +call in the English doctor either for himself or his household; in this +way I made his <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb144" href="#pb144" name= +"pb144">144</a>]</span>acquaintance, and, like most Europeans who have +come in contact with him, admired both his shrewdness and ability. He +always proved himself a good friend to the English mission, and later I +got to know much more intimately his eldest son, H.H. Jalal-el-Dowleh, +who was the able governor of Yezd, a city some three hundred miles +eastward of Isphahan.</p> +<p>Soon after reaching Julfa, I was sent for by the governor to examine +his eyes. I found him in a garden outside the city, which he had just +had constructed for a summer residence. He received me cordially, and, +after the business part of the interview was over, chatted freely, +telling me of all he had undergone at the hands of other physicians. A +few years before, he had become alarmed about the state of his +eyesight, and became possessed with the idea that he was gradually +going blind. He believed himself to be suffering from a very hopeless +eye disease, very prevalent in Persia, known as “black +cataract” (glaucoma), and despite the assurance to the contrary +given by Dr. Carr (the English doctor) and others, he persisted in +sending for two eye specialists, one from Paris, the other from London. +Both had thoroughly examined his sight, and had confirmed Dr. +Carr’s assurances that there was no disease, but his fears had +put him to considerable expense, as both the specialists were treated +right royally. Laughingly he told me how much he had dreaded the +interview with the London specialist, and how the fateful day had at +last come. The doctor had merely lightly placed his fingers on the eye, +felt the tension, and then had smilingly assured His Royal Highness +that there was no fear of glaucoma, <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb145" href="#pb145" name="pb145">145</a>]</span>a subsequent careful +examination confirming this verdict. “And to think,” +pathetically added the governor, “that I had spent all those +thousands of pounds for nothing!” Of course I at once suggested +that to have had all his fears of blindness so happily set at rest more +than compensated for any expense that he might have incurred, but he +remained unconvinced.</p> +<p>During the year we remained in Isphahan I had many opportunities of +being received by the governor. He always treated me with the same +kindness, and upon our departure for Kerman, presented me with a large +signed photograph of himself.</p> +<p>Isphahan is a great city that has passed through many vicissitudes: +at one time it was the capital of Persia. Its population to-day is +probably about 150,000. As in all Shiah (Mohammedan) lands, the priests +(mullahs) possess great power. The Moslem archbishops are termed +“mujtiheds.” In each Persian city there are generally two +mujtiheds, one official (Sheikh-es-Islam), the other elected by the +people, and the latter, as a rule, possessed the greater influence.</p> +<p>In 1900 the popular mujtihed was the eldest of three brothers, all +mullahs. His power was very great—too great for the taste of the +Shah, if one may credit rumour. Only a few days after our arrival, a +carriage was sent for me, from the second brother of this mujtihed, who +for many weeks had been anxiously looking forward to the arrival of an +English “hakim,” as he was suffering from a troublesome +disease which might at any time develop serious symptoms. All these +Isphahan mullahs had proved themselves hostile <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb146" href="#pb146" name="pb146">146</a>]</span>to +the presence of foreigners, and on more than one occasion they had +endeavoured, by preaching against them in the mosques, to inflame the +populace and cause a riot.</p> +<p>At the patient’s house I was joined by another doctor (Dr. +Aganoor), who was also the English Vice-Consul, and to whom we were +indebted for many acts of kindness during our stay in Isphahan. The +mullah was really his patient, and I was called in for consultation as +to the advisability of operating. We were ushered into a large room +with a fountain playing in the centre, and there we found the patient, +supported by both his brothers, besides innumerable friends.</p> +<p>We sat in solemn conclave for over an hour, discussing the pros and +cons of the case, and then, having decided upon the course of +treatment, we took our departure. Some days later we were again sent +for, and found our patient in great pain, and the whole house crowded +with his innumerable friends, who had hurriedly come together at the +rumour of his approaching death.</p> +<p>Our patient was in a very excited state, angrily refusing the +consolation offered by his disciples and friends, and violently +shouting, “A thousand tomans (£200) to any one who can take +away this pain.” Then, as he felt an extra bad twinge, “Ten +thousand tomans to any one who will cure this pain” (about +£2000).</p> +<p>However, we soothed him, injected a little morphia, assured him +there was no immediate danger, and as the sedative commenced to work, +and the pain disappeared, with it went all thought of rewarding +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb147" href="#pb147" name= +"pb147">147</a>]</span>his benefactors: on the contrary, he took extra +trouble to explain how poor a man he really was, and that it was due to +the malice of his enemies that rumour reputed him wealthy. However, to +cut a long story short, by means of a simple operation, and much +patient care and attention on the part of Dr. Aganoor, he ultimately +made a good recovery, and was really grateful, using his influence +afterwards rather to restrain than augment the anti-European fanaticism +of his other two brethren. Later a nephew of the chief mujtihed, +himself a mullah, actually consented to come into hospital to undergo +an urgently needed operation, and this proving successful, gained for +us another staunch friend from priestly quarters, whose friendship +stood us in good stead on another occasion which might have ended +rather differently, but for his intervention. A few months had elapsed: +rumours still reached us from the city of occasional attempts made to +stir up the fanaticism of the people against us, the chief offender +being the third and youngest brother of the mujtihed before +mentioned.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2081width" id="p148-1"><img src= +"images/p148-1.jpg" alt="Using the X-rays in Julfa Hospital" width= +"583" height="405"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Using the X-rays in Julfa +Hospital</span></p> +<p class="first">The two assistants are both Armenians. The girls make +very good nurses, and the boys as a rule quickly become very efficient +helpers in the mission hospitals.</p> +</div> +<div class="figure xd20e2088width" id="p148-2"><img src= +"images/p148-2.jpg" alt="A Ward in the Julfa Hospital" width="585" +height="403"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Ward in the Julfa +Hospital</span></p> +<p class="first">This was a corner of the men’s ward in the old +hospital at Julfa. Now a large new hospital has been built in Isphahan +with accommodation for one hundred patients.</p> +</div> +<p>One day Dr. Aganoor and I were both sent for in a great hurry. We +heard that the whole city was in an uproar, that this fanatical mullah +had been poisoned, some said “by order of the Shah,” others +that the governor had asked him to a feast, and as he returned, ere +reaching home, the symptoms had started; others that the women of his +“anderoon” (quarter of the house in which no man but the +husband may enter) had given him “oil of bitter almonds” by +mistake. On approaching the house we found a crowd round the door, and +the house itself packed with disciples and friends of the great +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb148" href="#pb148" name= +"pb148">148</a>]</span>man. We were hurriedly shown into a large hall, +with marble pillars and floor, densely crowded with a mass of human +beings, all engaged in watching the last gasps of the poor mullah, who +was lying on a pile of carpets stretched on the marble floor. We learnt +to our dismay that he had been unconscious for four hours, and +apparently precautions had been taken that the English doctors should +not be called in until that amount of time had elapsed. Before that +intent, silent, fanatical crowd, we did all that could be done to save +the life of the man who had been our bitter enemy, taking turns to +perform artificial respiration, &c., but all in vain, for, as in my +turn I worked the dying man’s arms, he took his last breath, and +I whispered Dr. Aganoor that all was over. It was getting towards +midnight. Julfa was three miles distant, and we were alone in the midst +of that fanatical crowd. Well did my colleague know that once the +intimation was given that the end had come, the scene would baffle +description; the whole city would be roused, and our lives might even +be in danger; knowing these things, he whispered me to go on performing +artificial respiration while he got ready to go. So I went on with my +task, working the dead man’s arms until all was ready for our +instant departure. Then reverently folding his hands on his breast, I +drew over his face the coverlet, as an intimation that all was over. I +never again wish to hear such a yell as then arose from the throats of +that great throng. Doors were flung open, the mob from without rushed +into the room, women poured in belonging to the dead man’s +household, shrieking, wailing, tearing their clothes and hair. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb149" href="#pb149" name= +"pb149">149</a>]</span>Some of them made a wild rush at us as they +passed, and it really looked a bit serious, for already amidst the +uproar we could detect occasional cries of “The Feringhis have +poisoned him.” To my relief, amidst the excited throng I noticed +the face of my old friend the mujtihed’s nephew, who had been an +in-patient in the hospital, and when he noticed that I had observed +him, he beckoned us to follow him. We obeyed gladly, and he led us away +by a private passage, which finally emerged into a public square a long +distance from the dead man’s house. There our good Samaritan left +us, promising to send us our horses and servants, whom we had left +waiting outside the patient’s house. As we waited for them to +come, we could hear the sound of cries from all parts of the city, +followed by wailing of women, and the scurrying of many feet, as all +flocked to the quarter where the holy man’s body lay. At last our +servants and animals arrived, and we made haste to escape, reaching +home after midnight, thankful to God for preserving us from what might +have proved a very dangerous position. Next day we heard that the whole +city had gone into mourning; all the bazaars were shut, and the shops +draped with black, and this mourning was kept up five whole days. +Rumours were persistently circulated that the English doctors had +poisoned the mullah, but no one really believed it, and I was able to +attend the city dispensary as usual, even during the funeral +ceremonies, and patients rather increased than diminished, some of the +dead man’s relatives even coming for treatment.</p> +<p>So ended priestly opposition; the chief mujtihed himself was +frightened at the mode of his brother’s <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb150" href="#pb150" name= +"pb150">150</a>]</span>death, and kept very quiet, for fear, perhaps, +that a similar accident might happen to him. His surviving brother and +relatives were now quite friendly, and a few years later Dr. Carr was +able to obtain ground and build an excellent hospital in Isphahan +itself, welcomed alike by officials and priests. There is also an +excellent Women’s Hospital (C.M.S.), in charge of Dr. Emmeline +Stuart, who has for many years given her life to work amongst Moslem +women, and whose name is held dear by many a poor Persian village +woman, who has found relief and loving care at her hands, and those of +her staff. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb151" href="#pb151" name= +"pb151">151</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1994" href="#xd20e1994src" name="xd20e1994">1</a></span> By Dr. +A. Hume-Griffith.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch13" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter XIII</h2> +<h2 class="main">Pioneer Medical Mission Work in Kerman<a class= +"noteref" id="xd20e2111src" href="#xd20e2111" name= +"xd20e2111src">1</a></h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Pioneer Medical Mission work in Kerman—Waiting +for drugs and instruments—Native assistant proves a broken +reed—First operation in Kerman—An anxious +moment—Success—Doctrine of “savab” convenient +to the Moslem—Fanaticism tempered with prudence—Opium +slaves—Persian therapeutics—Persian quacks and their +methods—Sure way of curing cancer—Hysteria.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Charms for lovers, charms to break,</p> +<p class="line xd20e1099">Charms to bind them to you wholly,</p> +<p class="line">Medicines fit for every ache,</p> +<p class="line xd20e1099">Fever and fanciful melancholy.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">R. Bridges.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">We had been appointed to open a Medical Mission in +this city, and as soon as our temporary residence in Isphahan was +finished, proceeded to our original destination. We arrived at Kerman +early in 1901, and received a hearty welcome from the only other +European there—the Rev. A. R. Blackett, also of the Church +Missionary Society. Two houses were secured, both outside the city +wall; in one we took up our residence, while the other was made into a +dispensary, and small temporary hospital. Unfortunately we arrived +before our supply of drugs and surgical instruments, so we had to do +our best with the very small stock of medicines borrowed from our +stations in Isphahan and Yezd. However, patients began to come in large +numbers, and the out-patient department was soon in full swing. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb152" href="#pb152" name= +"pb152">152</a>]</span>We had brought with us from Isphahan two +Armenians to act as assistants, one for dispensing, the other (a man +who had been employed in the Mission for many years) to interpret and +help generally in the work. I had hoped much from this last-named +assistant, and had relied upon him greatly for advice and help, as he +had been in Kerman before, and knew the people; but I soon found him a +“broken reed.” He was married and had a large family, which +he had been obliged to leave behind in Isphahan, and very soon he began +to show signs of home-sickness. Then he commenced to imagine himself +ill, and developed symptoms of different ailments. In the first place +he one day came to me with a woeful face, and besought me to carefully +examine his chest, for he was convinced he was developing phthisis. +After being reassured on this point, he became absolutely sure that he +had heart disease; next his kidneys troubled him, and so on, until he +became a confirmed hypochondriac, and completely useless for work. One +day I remember his coming to me imploring that I would inject morphia +to relieve him of the intense pain from which he was suffering. I +gravely took the hypodermic syringe, and carefully injected distilled +water, and the pain disappeared with lightning rapidity!</p> +<p>However, I had to send him home, and I believe that, once safely +reunited to his family, he at once lost all his symptoms, and was able +to resume his old work at the hospital.</p> +<p>In the meanwhile my surgical patients were clamouring for +operations, more especially those <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb153" +href="#pb153" name="pb153">153</a>]</span>afflicted with cataract. I +had opened another dispensary in the city itself, and many poor blind +people had come for treatment. It went to one’s heart to have to +send them away day after day with the same disheartening story. +“The instruments have not yet come; until they arrive, nothing +can be done.” I fear that many commenced to think that the +English doctor was a fraud, and that his excuses concerning the +instruments resembled those framed by their own “hakims” to +hide their own ignorance. At last the boxes actually arrived. They had +to be brought by caravan from Bushire (the port in the Persian Gulf) to +Kerman, <i>viâ</i> Shiraz and Yezd, a distance of some eight +hundred miles, taking a couple of months.</p> +<p>We admitted our first in-patient, a well-known merchant in the city, +who had been blind for three years with cataract. The Persian surgeons +also operate for this disease, using the old Eastern operation known as +“couching.” An incision is made into the white of the +eyeball (without any anæsthetic), then a thick, blunt probe is +worked into the interior of the eye, directed so as to dislocate the +lens. If successful, the lens drops back into the posterior chamber of +the eye, and the patient “sees,” but alas, the vision +obtained is, in ninety-eight cases out of a hundred, only temporary! +Twenty-four hours later, inflammation of the eye supervenes, and the +sight is gone, and the eye lost. Needless to say, the operator obtains +his fee either before the operation is done, or during the few hours +that his patient is rejoicing in his newly found vision; then if he is +wise he disappears from the town, and <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb154" href="#pb154" name="pb154">154</a>]</span>resumes his practice +elsewhere. However, during eight years’ practice in the East, and +having had the opportunity of examining thousands of eyes, I can +remember <i>two</i> cases only where this operation had been done and +there had been no subsequent inflammation, but the great majority of +eyes are lost.</p> +<p>Well, we had our first Kerman cataract patient, and it seemed to us +as though the whole future of the little pioneer Medical Mission +depended upon the success or failure of that operation.</p> +<p>The day fixed for the operation arrived: a Persian doctor practising +in the city had requested leave to be present, no doubt on behalf of +the many friends of the patient, to report particulars and see fair +play. The patient was brought in, looking exceedingly nervous. After a +short prayer (a practice almost invariably adopted in medical +missionary hospitals, and much appreciated by the patient, even though +he be a fanatical Moslem), the operation was started. I am afraid we +were all unduly nervous, the possible consequences for good or ill to +the Mission assuming undue proportions. At any rate everything went +wrong; the cocaine (used as the anæsthetic) would not work, the +old man <i>could</i> not keep his eye still, and <i>would</i> look up +when he was told to look down. I was only able to complete the +incision, and that with the greatest difficulty; and fearing to proceed +further, the patient getting more and more excited, I had reluctantly +to postpone the operation for a couple of days. We all felt very +depressed, except, perhaps, the Persian “hakim,” who +doubtless greatly relished the failure of the English doctor. However, +two days later we tried again, the Persian hakim <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb155" href="#pb155" name="pb155">155</a>]</span>once +more being amongst the spectators. Much prayer had been offered up that +<i>this</i> time there might be no hitch. Everything at first went +well; the patient lay quite quietly, moved his eye exactly as he was +told, the cocaine proved satisfactory, the incision was remade, and +other preliminary steps in the operation disposed of: then came the +hitch. In the European method of operating for cataract, the opaque +lens is extruded from the eye by gentle pressure, through the incision +first made. Well, when the time came for the lens to be extruded, it +would not budge! I tried all possible means of extraction without +success (afterwards I discovered that adhesions had formed between the +lens and the curtain of the eye, as a result of the first operation). +The perspiration ran down my face, as I realised what this second +failure meant, not so much for my own reputation, but the hindrance it +would prove to the success of the work I loved. I glanced at my wife: +she was looking very anxious. I looked at my assistants: their faces +were pictures of dismay. They had seen me before in Isphahan do many a +cataract, and could not imagine what had gone wrong. The Persian doctor +looked particularly happy: he smiled as he politely expressed his +sorrow that I was experiencing any difficulty in bringing the operation +to a successful issue. It certainly was an awkward fix—perhaps +the most awkward that I have ever been in; but as I lifted up my heart +in silent prayer to God, asking for guidance, the thought flashed into +my mind, “The man has both eyes blind: you have failed with the +one; do the other at once, and it <i>will</i> prove successful.” +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb156" href="#pb156" name= +"pb156">156</a>]</span></p> +<p>Gently covering the eye that had proved a failure, I explained +matters to the patient, obtained his permission, thoroughly cleansed +his other eye, and proceeded to operate, meeting with no difficulty and +easily extracting the lens, to the palpable disappointment of my +Persian medical friend, and was overjoyed to find that the patient old +man had obtained exceedingly good vision. After a week the patient went +back to his friends, seeing well, and full of gratitude for all the +kindness and care he had received. I saw him some months later, and +inquired whether he cared to let me have another try at the eye that +had proved unsuccessful; but he refused, saying he was an old man, and +had obtained good sight with the one, and did not need to see with the +other. Of course the result of this first operation had been anxiously +awaited by many, and since it proved successful, we soon had our little +temporary hospital full, and had no further trouble in getting +in-patients. I have described this case rather fully, avoiding +technical terms as far as possible, as it illustrates fairly well the +difficulties and responsibilities met with and tackled by pioneer +workers, be they missionary or official.</p> +<p>The Persians (especially the Kermanis) have a great idea of doing +“savabs” (good works), hoping to reap their reward +hereafter. This is common to the West as well as the East; but the +Kermanis in addition hold a convenient doctrine, namely, the +appropriation of the savabs of infidels for themselves! At least one of +the chief mullahs in Kerman surprised me somewhat by the cordial +reception he accorded me; but later said, “How glad he was that I +had <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb157" href="#pb157" name= +"pb157">157</a>]</span>come to Kerman and was doing such ‘good +works’ amongst the sick and poor, as hereafter God would credit +the true Moslems with all the savabs done by infidels, who of course +could derive no benefit at all from their performance.”</p> +<p>As Kerman is a city proverbial amongst the Persians for its great +wickedness, I could understand the old mullah’s satisfaction, as +doubtless he felt that many of their savab accounts were rather low and +needed a trifle of “credit,” which might with advantage be +obtained from the savabs of an infidel doctor!</p> +<p>Once yearly the Persians celebrate the death of the martyrs Hassain +and Hussein, as has already been described in a previous chapter. We +had a good opportunity of witnessing this Persian Passion Play while in +Kerman. The sword-dancers, clad in white garments, work themselves up +into a frenzy, gashing their heads with the swords and sometimes +inflicting severe wounds. A true believer is supposed to have his +self-inflicted wounds healed spontaneously through the agency of +Hazrati Ali (grandson of the prophet Mohammed); but I was a little +amused by the appearance of several of these devotees at my out-patient +clinique some days previous to the “celebration,” all of +them begging for a little English ointment to keep by them for use in +case miraculous healing should be delayed.</p> +<p>As has been already mentioned, the curse of Kerman is opium; +everybody smokes or eats it—generally the former. The native +doctors are partly responsible, as they recommend the drug as a +“cure-all”; but even the cultured Kermani smokes opium, +possibly to relieve the monotony of his life! <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb158" href="#pb158" name= +"pb158">158</a>]</span>Cases of poisoning repeatedly occur, and some of +these we were called upon to treat. Our dispensary had a small garden +attached to it, and when the Mission had gained the confidence of the +people it was no uncommon sight to see several opium patients being +treated at the same time in this garden. The treatment used, though +somewhat vigorous, proved very effective. A man would arrive at the +dispensary, escorted by an excited throng of relatives. On inquiry we +would find that he had taken a big dose of opium to end his life: +afterwards repenting, he had confessed to his relatives, and they had +at once brought him to the English doctor. The treatment began with the +administration of a strong emetic followed by repeated doses of strong +coffee; then he would be handed over to the care of an attendant, with +instructions to walk him round and round the garden and prevent his +going to sleep. The native assistants and the patient’s friends, +armed with sticks, carried out these instructions, and at the first +signs of languor exhibited by the unfortunate man he would be beaten +and kept effectually awake!</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2184width" id="p158-1"><img src= +"images/p158-1.jpg" alt="Opium-Making" width="404" height="584"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Opium-Making</span></p> +<p class="first">An enormous quantity of opium is grown and exported +from Persia every year. The juice is extracted from the poppy head by +scratching it with a small iron instrument, and as it oozes out it is +gathered, and when dry rolled into cakes ready either for use in the +country or for export.</p> +</div> +<div class="figure xd20e2191width" id="p158-2"><img src= +"images/p158-2.jpg" alt="The Rich Beggar" width="403" height="585"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">The Rich Beggar</span></p> +<p class="first">This old man is said to be very rich. By day be dons +his rags and goes forth on his lucrative profession of begging; at +sunset he returns to his home and, exchanging his rags for more +respectable garments, spends his earnings in luxury and feasting.</p> +</div> +<p>One day I was summoned in haste to the house of an influential +Kermani; his only son, a child of two years, had been poisoned with +opium. It is a common practice in Kerman for mothers to keep their +babies from crying by giving them a little opium to suck. This +boy’s mother had given him a big lump by mistake, and grew +alarmed when she found that all her attempts to wake him were +ineffectual! On arriving at the house with my assistant, we had +considerable difficulty in making our way into the courtyard, as it was +thronged with all the relatives <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb159" +href="#pb159" name="pb159">159</a>]</span>and friends; the neighbouring +houses were crowded, a great multitude thronging the flat roofs, which +commanded a good view of the courtyard belonging to the patient’s +father. On examining my little patient I found him nearly dead, +exhibiting all the symptoms of an overdose of opium. However, for over +an hour we worked away, washing out the child’s stomach, +injecting strong coffee, &c., all in the open air before the +excited multitude, and gradually the little patient showed signs of +recovery. When he had come completely round and was crying vigorously, +there was great rejoicing. Thinking the opportunity too good a one to +be lost, I asked my assistant to tell the father that God had heard +prayer and restored him his child, and that we would now like him to +join with us and thank God for answering our prayers, if he would tell +the crowd what we intended doing. Although the father was a mullah, and +had the reputation of being very fanatical in his hatred of Christians, +he at once consented to our proposition, announcing to the crowd our +intention. During the short thanksgiving prayer every head was bowed +and not a sound of protest heard, while Christian and Moslem alike +returned thanks to the great God who had heard and answered prayer. +Medical Missions had once again won a triumph over Moslem fanaticism, +and the scowls and threatening looks which had greeted our arrival were +replaced by cordial thanks and vehement expressions of gratitude!</p> +<p>Persian therapeutics are very simple, dating back to the time of +Hippocrates. All diseases are divided into two classes—hot and +cold—to be treated <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb160" href= +"#pb160" name="pb160">160</a>]</span>accordingly with hot or cold +remedies. All foods are similarly classified. With this knowledge, plus +a few Persian medical books and an appropriate turban, the native quack +sets up as a doctor. His impudence and native wit are inexhaustible; he +will cheer his patients with extracts from Hafiz or Ferdosi (the great +Persian poets), talk learnedly of vapours, and have a specific for +every mortal ailment. The quack physician is amusing, and probably +confines himself to fairly harmless compounds; but the Persian surgeon +is a man to be avoided at all costs. Of course, I am only here speaking +of quacks; in Teheran there is a good medical school, and many of the +graduates from that school proceed to Paris or Berlin, and return fully +qualified to exercise their profession; but they also have to compete +with these native quacks.</p> +<p>I remember one case of a poor man brought to the dispensary with a +big swelling on the left knee, which prevented his straightening the +leg. Careful examination convinced me that the case was one of +malignant cancer of the thigh bone, and that nothing could be done but +amputation. This was explained to the patient and his father, who +indignantly rejected the proposed operation. I lost sight of the man, +but some weeks later one of my assistants asked me if I remembered the +case; on my replying in the affirmative, he informed me that the +patient had since died. It seems after leaving the dispensary the +father had taken his son (a young man twenty years old) to a native +surgeon (who combined the exercise of his profession most appropriately +with the trade of a butcher) and asked his advice, saying the English +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb161" href="#pb161" name= +"pb161">161</a>]</span>doctor had advised amputation of the leg; but he +had refused, as the swelling caused little pain, and all his son wanted +was to be able to straighten his leg so that he might once again walk. +“Oh,” replied the butcher, “that’s easily done; +that English doctor knows nothing; I will cure him.” So he got +the father and other men to hold the unfortunate youth firmly and some +other helper to seize the leg; then seizing a huge slab of stone in +both his hands, he brought it down with all his force on the bent knee. +The leg was straightened ... and needless to add, the poor patient only +survived a few days.</p> +<p>My wife has written quite sufficient about the Persian women to +enable her readers to appreciate the monotony of their lives behind the +veil. This is more especially true of the upper classes, who have no +need to work for their living. In Kerman the usual result is that many +of these poor women suffer from hysteria. I have often been called in +to treat some of these patients, and have found them develop almost all +the varying types of that curious disease; but one of the most +interesting cases I ever remember occurred in Kerman.</p> +<p>I had been treating the unmarried daughter of one of the wealthiest +men in the city, and had prescribed for her some simple bismuth +mixture, as she had complained of indigestion. Two days later her +brother came galloping his horse to the dispensary, and demanded to see +me immediately. He was greatly excited, and said that his sister had +been taking the medicine I had prescribed for her and had suddenly gone +blind. This was in the early days of the Medical Mission, and I was +especially anxious to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb162" href= +"#pb162" name="pb162">162</a>]</span>win the confidence of the people, +so did not at all appreciate this complication. I assured the brother +that I would return with him at once, and informed him that the +medicine could not possibly have caused the blindness; but he was not +at all appeased. Upon reaching the house I found all the family +distracted with grief, and not at all inclined to be cordial. Moreover, +they had called in a native eye-doctor, who had gravely announced that +the blindness was most certainly due to the patient having taken the +infidel’s medicine! In order to reassure the parents I bade them +bring the bottle of medicine, and, finding there were still two or +three doses left, called for a glass, poured out the remainder, and +drank it. This seemed to reassure them partially, so they allowed me to +examine the girl. She was a nervous, highly-strung patient, and I had +expected to find that she had been malingering; but to my surprise, +upon thorough examination I convinced myself that she had really gone +blind. Examination of the interior of the eyes showed no disease, and +upon inquiry, finding that she was the subject of periodical hysterical +attacks, I ventured to predict to the parents that with suitable care +and supervision the girl would regain her sight. They were still +inclined to be sceptical, but ten days later I heard that my prediction +had come true and that she was quite cured. Similar cases of hysterical +loss of vision are on record, but are exceedingly rare.</p> +<p>Barely had we managed to get the little Medical Mission well started +when circumstances connected with my wife’s health arose that +forced us to leave at a moment’s notice the people we had learnt +to love. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb163" href="#pb163" name= +"pb163">163</a>]</span>Fortunately the work was not given up; another +doctor succeeded me, and now there is a flourishing Medical Mission +with two hospitals, one for men and the other for women patients, with +a lady doctor and nurse; while the influence exerted by that Mission is +felt throughout the whole of the great Kerman province, which stretches +eastwards to the border of Beloochistan, and is bounded on the south by +the Persian Gulf. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb164" href="#pb164" +name="pb164">164</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2111" href="#xd20e2111src" name="xd20e2111">1</a></span> By Dr. +A. Hume-Griffith.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch14" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter XIV</h2> +<h2 class="main">Medical Mission Work in Yezd<a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2226src" href="#xd20e2226" name="xd20e2226src">1</a></h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">A hospital—A friendly governor—A +suspicious case—Superstition—The opium habit—A case +of cataract—We return to England.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“By medicine life may be prolonged....</p> +<p class="line">With the help of a surgeon he may yet +recover.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The last of our three years’ sojourn in Persia +was spent in Yezd. Here there was already a small Mission Hospital, all +the pioneer work having been done by Dr. White of the C.M.S. A wealthy +Parsee merchant had presented the site for a hospital in the form of an +old caravanserai (an Eastern inn). This had been gutted and made into a +nice little hospital, with an out-patient department. Dr. White being +on furlough, the doctor taking his place in Yezd exchanged with me, as +it was hoped that my wife would be able better to stand the lower +altitude of Yezd than the heights of Kerman. Yezd is an island city in +a sea of sand. The waves, driven by the winds, surge against the city +walls and threaten to engulf the whole place. At some parts of the +wall, the drifted sand reaches almost to the level of the wall +itself.</p> +<p>The Governor of Yezd during the time we lived there was H.R.H. +Jalal-el-Dowleh, the eldest son of the Prince-Governor of <span class= +"corr" id="xd20e2244" title="Source: Ispahan">Isphahan</span> (the +Zil-es-Sultan). <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb165" href="#pb165" +name="pb165">165</a>]</span>The Jalal-el-Dowleh had the reputation, +like his father, of being a strong man, and ruled with a firm hand. He +had already proved a good friend to the Mission, and was accustomed to +pay a state visit once yearly to the hospital, where, after being +entertained at the doctor’s house, he would proceed to make a +very thorough tour of inspection, and before leaving would hand the +English doctor a sealed envelope containing the munificent sum of +£40 as a donation. During our stay in Yezd we saw a good deal of +the governor, and I had to add to my duties those of court +physician.</p> +<p>In Yezd, as in other Persian cities, there are many quacks, who not +unnaturally resent the presence of a European doctor. I had not been +long in the city before I made the acquaintance of some of these +gentry, in a somewhat dramatic manner.</p> +<p>Early one morning I was hurriedly called to the house of the chief +native doctor, as his brother had been taken seriously ill.</p> +<p>On entering the patient’s room, I found it crowded with his +friends, the patient himself lying upon a mattress placed on the +ground. One glance at the patient sufficed: he was dead, and had +apparently been so for some hours. When I announced the fact to the +brother, he became very angry, and assured me that I was mistaken. He +begged me to pour some medicine down the man’s throat, or to do +something to rouse him, as he had only fainted!</p> +<p>Upon further inquiry, I found that he had been poorly for some days, +and his brother had been treating him. My suspicions were aroused, as +the brother and his friends crowded round me, imploring that +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb166" href="#pb166" name= +"pb166">166</a>]</span>English medicines should be tried, and after +further careful examination only served to confirm my first opinion, I +refused absolutely to comply with their entreaties, and left the house +with my assistant. The brother and some of his friends pursued us, +offering large fees if only we would give some medicine, absolutely +refusing to accept my verdict. It is a necessary custom in Persia and +the East generally, to bury a dead body within a few hours of death, +but we heard that the brother refused to allow this corpse to be buried +for three whole days, alleging that the English doctor was mistaken: +however, in the end they were obliged to bury him. The native doctor +was strongly suspected of having poisoned his brother, and this +doubtless accounted for the urgent manner in which he begged me to pour +something down the dead man’s throat, so that he could accuse me +of being responsible for his death.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2259width" id="p166-1"><img src= +"images/p166-1.jpg" alt="Types of Persian Jews" width="586" height= +"402"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Types of Persian Jews</span></p> +<p class="first">The Chief Rabbi at Yezd (sitting in the centre). This +photo was taken in the author’s garden at Yezd.</p> +</div> +<div class="figure xd20e2266width" id="p166-2"><img src= +"images/p166-2.jpg" alt="The Water Square" width="587" height="404"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">The Water Square</span></p> +<p class="first">The “Maidawi ob,” or water square, is a +favourite gathering-place of the inhabitants. They love to linger round +the edges of the water, drinking their coffee, striking bargains, and +exchanging news. The water is none too clean, nor the odour too sweet +which greets the senses as we ride by.</p> +</div> +<p>All Persians are superstitious, and are great believers in goblins +and ‘jinns.’ One day a young man was brought to me +suffering from an acute attack of chorea (St. Vitus’ dance). He +was well educated, and had been employed as a clerk in a +merchant’s office: now he was unable to hold a pen in his hand, +and exhibited all the symptoms of the disease in a very marked degree. +He was promptly admitted to hospital, and discharged cured in a few +weeks. According to his own statement the cause of the attack was as +follows. He had gone for a walk in the desert outside the city after +his day’s work was over, and had wandered on further than usual. +Suddenly he came across an old well, and round the well were numbers of +hideous dwarf-like goblins pelting <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb167" +href="#pb167" name="pb167">167</a>]</span>each other with stones. When +they saw him they crowded round laughing, jeering, pulling his clothes, +and then began to pelt him with stones. He turned and fled, running the +whole way back to the city, and to this shock he attributed the +commencement of his symptoms.</p> +<p>In my last chapter I referred to the prevalence of the opium habit +in Kerman, but we found many addicted to it also in Yezd. So much was +this the case, that I started admitting some of those who expressed a +desire to give up the habit into the hospital, submitting them to a +special treatment, with very good results. It was a curious sight to +see these patients grouped together in the ward, smoking their +carefully weighed out amount of opium, which was gradually reduced day +by day, until they could go without altogether.</p> +<p>The opium habit is in truth a curse, but upon one occasion I really +believe it greatly helped to save a man’s life. It happened in +this way. A well-known merchant in Yezd was found in his house +apparently sleeping. His women-folk, unable to rouse him, became +alarmed, and sent for me. I found the patient unconscious, exhibiting +every symptom of belladonna poisoning. An excited crowd, as usual, +collected, watching us as we tried every possible means of saving the +poor fellow’s life. Strychnine and morphia had been injected, +cold water poured on his face, all without avail: there was no sign of +returning consciousness. A happy thought struck me. Turning to some of +the men in the crowd, I asked whether they were opium-smokers. Three or +four somewhat shamefacedly acknowledged that they did a little, so I +ordered them to bring a pipe and a little of the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb168" href="#pb168" name= +"pb168">168</a>]</span>drug. Then I made them sit round the +patient’s body, take the pipe in turn, and as they smoked, puff +out the smoke into the patient’s face, occasionally blowing it +into his nostrils, and down his throat. I confess that I had but little +hope of any good result, but what was my delight and surprise, after +about a quarter of an hour’s perseverance in the treatment, to +see unmistakable signs of recovery in the patient’s face. His +widely dilated pupils began to contract, and soon he returned to +consciousness and was able to sit up. On the following day I found him +quite well, and thoroughly enjoying the sensation that his marvellous +recovery had made in the city. Hundreds of people had been to see him, +and I am a little afraid that the value of the opium as a +“cure-all” was not diminished by the incident!</p> +<p>We had quite a number of cataract patients in the hospital, many +coming several days’ journey for operation. A small hospital for +women had been started, and a lady doctor had been sent to take charge. +The first case admitted was an old lady with cataract. When the day +arrived for the operation, everything went well at first, but in the +middle of the operation the patient started up screaming. She said she +had seen a snake, and she thought it was going to bite her. Her vision +cost her dearly, the operation necessarily being spoilt, and the eye +lost, but unfortunately it also kept away other patients suffering from +the same disease, but only for a short time, the lady doctor soon +winning their confidence, and finding more work on her hands than she +could comfortably get through.</p> +<p>After a very happy year in Yezd, my wife’s health <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb169" href="#pb169" name= +"pb169">169</a>]</span>still remaining unsatisfactory, we were obliged +to leave Persia, and return to England for a short rest. Both of us +were grieved at having to leave a country and people that we had learnt +to love, and amongst whom we had hoped to spend our lives.</p> +<p>Medical Missions in Persia have already worked wonders, breaking +down opposition, winning friends even amongst the most fanatical. Here +is not the place to speak of results, neither would it be wise to do +so, but I would like once for all definitely and decisively to +repudiate the oft-quoted statement, often made, unfortunately, by +Christians who should be better informed, “that it is impossible +for a Mohammedan to become a Christian.” With God <i>all</i> +things are possible! <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb171" href="#pb171" +name="pb171">171</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2226" href="#xd20e2226src" name="xd20e2226">1</a></span> By Dr. +A. Hume-Griffith.</p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div0 part"> +<h2 class="main">Part II</h2> +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb173" href="#pb173" name= +"pb173">173</a>]</span> +<div id="ch2.1" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter I</h2> +<h2 class="main">The City of Nineveh</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">The city of Nineveh—The fast of Jonah—The +bridge of boats—Traditions as to ancient history of +Mosul—Alkosh, birthplace of Nahum the +prophet—Shurgât—Climate of Mosul—Cultivation +and industries—Importance of Mosul.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“A ruin, yet what ruin! from its mass</p> +<p class="line">Walls, palaces, half cities have been reared.</p> +<p class="line">Heroes have trod this spot—’tis on their +dust ye tread.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Byron.</span></p> +<p>“Nineveh, an exceeding great city of three days’ +journey.”</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The ancient city of Nineveh, the former capital of the +Assyrian Empire, is situated on the eastern bank of the river Tigris. +Little is to be seen to-day of the once famous city but huge mounds of +earth which cover the site of this historical and interesting place. +There are two principal mounds, separated from each other by a small +rivulet. The larger of these is called Kouyunjik, the smaller Nabbi +Eunice. The former contains the ruins of the palace of Sennacherib, +before whom Jonah stood and delivered his message; but nothing now +remains to tell of its former glory and wealth. When we first visited +the spot over three years ago, there was one huge man-headed lion +remaining, and a few pieces of sculpture representing fish swimming in +water, &c. But now even these have disappeared, for about eighteen +months ago the Turkish Government <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb174" +href="#pb174" name="pb174">174</a>]</span>sold <i>all</i> the visible +remains of Nineveh for the enormous sum of two Turkish liras (36s.)! +the buyer grinding everything to powder, including the huge statue, for +purposes of building!</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2329width" id="p174"><img src="images/p174.jpg" +alt="Our Home in Nineveh" width="720" height="483"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Our Home in Nineveh</span></p> +<p class="first">The houses of Mosul generally consist of two +compounds. The inner one is used as the “hareem” or +women’s quarters, while the outer one is the men’s +reception rooms, stables, etc. The above picture shows the +“hareem.” The pillars are made of marble, which abounds in +the neighbourhood of Mosul.</p> +</div> +<p>Nineveh is best seen to-day at the British Museum or the Louvre, +Paris, as both of these places contain many interesting and valuable +remains of that city. Nineveh was closed to excavators about four years +ago, but it is hoped that investigations will be renewed again in the +near future, as there still remain thirteen rooms of the palace to be +examined.</p> +<p>The other and smaller mound, known as Nabbi Eunice (Prophet Jonah), +was once the site of a church named after the prophet, on account of +the tradition that he preached upon that spot. The church stands to +this day, but is used as a mosque, as it now belongs to the Moslems, +who venerate the place as being the tomb of the prophet.</p> +<p>They accept the whole story of Jonah’s mission to Nineveh and +the adventures he encountered <i>en route</i>, as we have it recorded +in Holy Scripture. It is an interesting fact, too, that year by year +the inhabitants of Mosul, Christians and Moslems alike, keep in +remembrance the three days of fasting and repentance mentioned in the +Book of Jonah. The fast is still kept for three days, by some very +strictly, while others keep it from sunset to sunset, only eating once +a day. Every one may please herself as to the severity of her fasting, +but almost all join in the remembrance of those three memorable days in +the history of Nineveh. “Herself” is used advisedly, as it +is especially kept by women who are seeking some particular gift from +God, and they will often fast <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb175" +href="#pb175" name="pb175">175</a>]</span>absolutely for the three +days, not even allowing a drop of water to touch their lips. They hope +by so doing that God will hear their prayers, even as He answered the +petitions of the Ninevites of old. The memory of Jonah is perpetuated, +too, in Mosul by parents naming their boys after the prophet, Eunice +being quite a favourite name amongst Christians, Moslems, and Jews.</p> +<p>The tomb of Jonah is guarded very zealously by the Mohammedans +against the Christians, and it is very difficult for the latter to gain +admission to the interior of the building. A friend staying with us in +Mosul was very anxious to see the tomb, so we rode over to Nabbi Eunice +one day, but the mullah in charge politely but firmly refused us +permission to enter beyond the portal!</p> +<p>Kouyunjik is now a favourite place for picnics from Mosul, and in +the early spring a day spent amongst the old ruins of Nineveh is very +delightful. It is too hot in summer, as there is no shade. From the top +of the mounds we have a beautiful view of Mosul, with the Tigris in the +foreground and the mountains stretching away on either side. It is not +considered safe for any one to wander about alone on the mounds; the +natives will never go there alone after dusk. Some years ago two +Europeans who were passing through Mosul visited Nineveh by themselves. +As they were rambling over the old remains, one said to his companion, +“I am going round there,” indicating a projecting piece of +marble. His companion waited and waited, and as his friend did not +return went in search of him, but not a sign of him could be seen. +After <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb176" href="#pb176" name= +"pb176">176</a>]</span>seeking in every possible place without success, +he returned to Mosul to institute a search party, but all efforts +proved fruitless, and to this day nothing has been discovered as to the +fate of this man. Whether he fell down some disused shaft or was +carried off by Arabs is not known, and probably will always remain a +mystery.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2353width" id="p176"><img src="images/p176.jpg" +alt="A Bridge of Boats" width="720" height="483"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Bridge of Boats</span></p> +<p class="first">This bridge over the Tigris connects Nineveh with +Mosul. When the rush of water is very great the bridge swings open, and +is sometimes only closed with great difficulty. In the right-hand +corner of the background may be seen the village of “Nabbi +Eunice,” where the prophet Jonah is said to be buried.</p> +</div> +<p>Mosul is connected with Nineveh by an old bridge of boats, which +probably existed in the days of Jonah. There are twenty-one or +twenty-two of these old-fashioned flat-bottomed boats, fastened +together by heavy chains, a platform of wood being laid from boat to +boat and the whole covered with earth. This part of the bridge is +movable, and is connected at one end with the mainland by a permanent +stone bridge consisting of thirty-three arches. In the spring, when the +rush of water is very strong consequent upon the snow melting in the +mountains, it is loosened at one end and allowed to swing with the +current. Sometimes, however, the river rises suddenly, carrying the +bridge away and playing havoc with the banks. When this takes place it +is very difficult to replace the bridge. Often for weeks together the +bridge is not open, and all traffic across the river has to be conveyed +by boats, the owner of the ferries reaping a golden harvest. The toll +of the bridge is taken by a man who rents it from the Government. He is +said to be one of the richest men in Mosul. Foot passengers are allowed +to pass freely, but all four-footed beasts have a small charge levied +on them ranging from a halfpenny to twopence, and carriages are charged +half a mejideh (1s. 8d.). As some thousands of camels, mules, +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb177" href="#pb177" name= +"pb177">177</a>]</span>and donkeys are continually passing to and fro, +it is no wonder that the toll-collector is a rich man.</p> +<p>I am not at all fond of riding across this bridge; it is not very +wide, and camels jostle you on one side with their huge burdens, +donkeys and mules vie with each other in trying to pass on the other, +quite oblivious of the fact that there is no room; while underneath the +river rushes madly on. Altogether, I always heave a sigh of relief when +the opposite bank is safely reached.</p> +<p>There are many traditions as to the probable origin of Mosul, but +its true early history is involved in obscurity. The following has been +gleaned from some of the many traditions circulated amongst its +inhabitants.</p> +<p>Mosul is said to have been built some four thousand years ago, and +was then a small village consisting of a few houses built of mud. This +village was believed to be the fourth village built after the Flood. +About four days’ journey from Mosul there is a mountain called +Judy, on which the ark is supposed to have rested after the Flood. The +natives living near this mountain say it <i>must</i> be Mount Ararat, +because close by grows the only olive tree for miles around! and also +they have in their possession enormous wooden nails <i>said</i> to have +been used in the construction of the ark! These nails were found on the +mountain many years ago. At the foot of this mountain lies a village +which claims to have the honour of being the <i>first</i> built after +the Flood. Quite near by is another small town called Jezirah, which is +said to have been the second village to spring into existence, while +some village in Egypt takes the third place, and Mosul the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb178" href="#pb178" name= +"pb178">178</a>]</span>fourth! If these traditions are to be trusted, +then Mosul has indeed a right to be termed ancient.</p> +<p>Some 1260 years ago Omar el Khattab the Calipha conquered Jerusalem +and Damascus, and then turned his attention to Mosul. He sent down one +of his chiefs named Eyath, son of Ghoonum, to besiege Mosul, with +orders to convert the city to Mohammedanism at all costs, if necessary +at the point of the sword. Many of the inhabitants at that time were +Parsees, belonging to the old fire-worshipping religion; others were +called “Charamika,” but no trace of their belief has been +found. These and many others were converted to Mohammedanism by the +strong argument of the sword.</p> +<p>In the twelfth century Mosul had a sovereignty of its own, a brother +of the Sultan of Damascus then reigning over this province. In 1180 it +withstood the armies of the famous Saladin, who was a native of a town +some five days’ ride from Mosul. In the thirteenth and fourteenth +centuries it suffered defeat from the hands of its enemies, and in 1743 +Nadir Shah of Persia bombarded the town for forty days. Since then +Mosul has suffered much from time to time through various +causes—from the cruelties of some of its governors, from a famine +caused by the crops being utterly destroyed by locusts, and also from +the plague which visited it in 1831 and left the town almost a desert. +It is stated that 100,000 people perished at that time from this +terrible scourge.</p> +<p>The walls surrounding Mosul are very old. They were built, in the +first instance, about 2000 years ago by a man named Marvan, one of the +kings of a tribe called “Umayya.” They were repaired 170 +years ago <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb179" href="#pb179" name= +"pb179">179</a>]</span>by Hadji Hussein Pasha, one of the Abdul Jaleel +family. They are now in many places fast falling into ruin, and are in +great need of restoration. These walls are pierced by about twelve +gates, which are shut at sunset or soon after.</p> +<p>About five hours’ journey from Mosul is the little village of +Elkosh, believed by many to have been the birthplace of the prophet +Nahum, and also the scene of his life-work and burial. This village, +now inhabited by Chaldeans, is reverenced by Moslems and Christians +alike, but more especially is it looked upon as a holy place by the +Jews. There is a synagogue in which is supposed to lie the tomb of the +prophet; to this the Jews flock for the yearly pilgrimage, having done +so from time immemorial.</p> +<p>Kalah Shurgât is another interesting place, situated two +days’ journey from Mosul. It consists of an old Assyrian ruin, +said to be the remains of the ancient city of Asshur. The Germans have +been excavating there for some years, and are doing it very thoroughly. +The whole ground floor of the palace and temple are laid bare, and are +in a wonderful state of preservation. One of the excavators pointed out +to us the “bathroom” of the palace, running through which +was a mono-rail, evidently having been constructed for the purpose of +conveying water from the reservoir to the bath. This tram-line must +have been one of the first ever invented! It was simply a groove cut in +the marble floor, on which probably a one-wheeled trolley ran.</p> +<p>The climate of Mosul is a very variable one, the summers being +excessively hot and the winters cold.</p> +<p>During the hot months all the inhabitants sleep at <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb180" href="#pb180" name= +"pb180">180</a>]</span>night on their roofs, starting about the 1st of +June, and continuing to do so for five months, or till the first rains +come. Many of the houses are provided with “sirdâbs” +or underground rooms, for use during the middle part of the day. The +marble from which most of the houses are built retains the heat of the +sun so long that they do not cool down in the evenings; on account of +this, as the summer wears on, the houses become almost unbearable with +accumulated heat. For this reason we generally try to go away somewhere +for a month’s holiday in August or September. There are no cool +places near Mosul, and to find a suitable summer retreat it is +necessary to go three or four days’ journey. For two years we +only went to a large house about three miles from Mosul, kindly lent us +by a patient of my husband’s. Here the heat was intense during +the day, but the evenings were delightfully cool as a rule, for the +river ran at the foot of the garden.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2400width" id="p180"><img src="images/p180.jpg" +alt="The Bridge of Boats over the frozen Tigris" width="720" height= +"484"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">The Bridge of Boats over the +frozen Tigris</span></p> +<p class="first">Such an occurrence is very unusual. It is 150 years +since the river was frozen over before.</p> +</div> +<p>The winters in Mosul are often very cold. Two years ago the Tigris +was nearly frozen over, and for three days the only water we could +obtain was from melted snow. The cold was so severe that men died as +they sat at their work. While such cold weather lasted it was +impossible to keep the patients in the hospital, as having no stoves in +the wards we were not able to warm them sufficiently. But this was a +record winter, there having been no such frost for one hundred and +fifty years.</p> +<p>Spring and autumn are beautiful seasons in Mosul, especially, +perhaps, the former. During March, April, and part of May the land for +many miles around Mosul is green with waving corn—a refreshing +sight <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb181" href="#pb181" name= +"pb181">181</a>]</span>for weary eyes. When the grass is about a foot +in height, all the inhabitants pitch tents outside the town and spend +their days there. Those who have horses tether them in front of their +tents, and allow them to eat grass to their hearts’ content. A +friend lent us a tent last year, and for a month or six weeks we +enjoyed the luxury of green scenery! Every day some of our congregation +were able to get out, each of us taking our turn at providing afternoon +tea. It was such a relief to get away from the heat of the city walls, +and to enjoy, if only for a short time, the lovely fresh air of the +corn-fields!</p> +<p>The autumn days are very pleasant too, but as a rule this season is +only too short. The summers last till the rains begin, and then almost +at once cold weather sets in. The most trying part of the whole year +comes towards the end of summer, when the clouds “come up.” +It is very marvellous the way the natives can tell, almost to a day, +when to expect the first clouds. They generally last from ten to twelve +days, and the relief is great when they depart. On the whole the +climate of Mosul seems to be a healthy one. At certain times of the +year malarial fever is very prevalent, but, +“alhamd’llillah!” neither of us have ever contracted +it.</p> +<p>The highest degree of heat registered in the coolest part of our +house is 110°, but the average heat of the three hottest months is +about 98° to 105°.</p> +<p>Three to four months of this kind of heat is generally quite +enough!</p> +<p>The land round Mosul is cultivated to a great extent, corn being the +chief product. The success of the crops, however, is entirely dependent +upon the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb182" href="#pb182" name= +"pb182">182</a>]</span>winter and spring rains. Should the rainfall be +great, the harvest is abundant; but if the season is a dry one, then +the result is disastrous. Mr. Layard speaks of one such occasion when, +during the whole of the winter and spring, no rain fell. As a +consequence of this, the crop failed and famine ravaged the land. This +famine is still spoken of in Mosul as something never to be forgotten, +and many events are marked as dating from “the famine.” +Some are not ashamed to own that they made their fortunes during that +awful time, by storing corn and then selling it at famine prices; while +others, who had been prosperous merchants till that year, were then +rendered penniless, and have never been able to retrieve their +fortunes. There are a few rude wheels constructed along the banks of +the Tigris for the purpose of irrigation; but as these are highly taxed +by the local government, they are by no means general. This mode of +raising water is very simple but expensive, as it requires the labour +of several men and at least two animals, either oxen or mules.</p> +<p>Gardens near the town are irrigated in this way, either by drawing +water from the river or from deep wells, but the great stretch of land +sown with corn is dependent for its nourishment on the rainfall.</p> +<p>Cotton is also grown and exported. Melons, cucumbers, and tomatoes +are cultivated very largely, and as the river recedes in the summer, +the moist bed is sown with water-melon seeds, which flourish splendidly +in the damp soil.</p> +<p>Fruit is largely grown in the mountains, and brought down on +donkeys. Apricots are very abundant; cherries, plums, peaches are less +plentiful. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb183" href="#pb183" name= +"pb183">183</a>]</span>The best apples are brought from Damascus; they +<i>look</i> good, but are flavourless. Grapes are very largely +cultivated, and are brought to great perfection. The large black kind +are very delicious; there is also a white grape which has a very sweet +flavour. Vegetables of all kinds are grown in the gardens near Mosul: +beans, peas, spinach, carrots (red), beetroot, onions, artichokes, as +well as many other varieties. Potatoes are brought from Persia, and +sometimes suffer so much from the long journey that they are only fit +to be thrown away when they reach Mosul. Last winter several hundreds +of sacks of potatoes were thrown into the river at Mosul, as they had +been frostbitten on the journey from Persia, and so were useless.</p> +<p>“Manna” is found in the mountains, and is collected and +sent to Mosul, where it is made into a sweetmeat called +“halawwi.”</p> +<p>The industries of Mosul are chiefly spinning and weaving. A very +strong kind of cotton cloth is woven, also calico and woollen goods. +Many years ago this industry was much larger than it is at present, and +in those days Mosul gave its name to muslin, a fabric exported by the +French from that town in the last century. Weaving is done by men, +while the women do the spinning and dyeing of the cotton or wool. +Weaving is a very favourite occupation, as the weaver can do just as +much or as little as he likes, being paid accordingly. For this reason +a man who is inclined to be lazy would much rather be a weaver than a +servant.</p> +<p>Furs are largely exported from Mosul. The skin of the fox is most +common, but there is another fur <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb184" +href="#pb184" name="pb184">184</a>]</span>much resembling the sable +which is highly prized amongst the natives, a coat lined with this fur +costing something like £50. Some years ago furs could be bought +quite cheaply in Mosul, but the merchants finding a good market for +their goods in Europe, the prices soon went up, and now even fox is +becoming expensive.</p> +<p>The industries of Mosul are not what they were, but we trust better +days are coming, when the old prosperity of the town will be renewed +and increased.</p> +<p>The three great questions now under consideration with regard to the +land of Mesopotamia will have great influence on the future of Mosul. +The first is the navigation of the Tigris from Baghdad to Mosul. This, +when an accomplished fact, will make a great difference in the export +and import trade of the city. The Baghdad railway will also greatly +increase the importance of Mosul, for the line running through it will +bring the East in close touch with the near West. Perhaps the most +important subject of all in connection with the future of Mosul is that +of the irrigation of Mesopotamia, which, once accomplished, will turn +the whole of that vast desert into a garden. The means to be employed +for this end are simply the reviving of the old Assyrian method of +irrigation. This method consisted in the digging of canals to intersect +the land between the rivers Tigris and Euphrates. Maps of these same +canals are still to be seen in the British Museum and other places, and +are of great interest. These great canals, made in the prosperous days +of the Assyrian Empire, are now <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb185" +href="#pb185" name="pb185">185</a>]</span>choked up, after having been +in use for many centuries by the inhabitants of the country. Layard, in +his “Discoveries at Nineveh,” says, “Herodotus +describes the extreme fertility of Assyria and its abundant harvests of +corn, the seed producing two and three hundred-fold”; and adds +later, “But in his day the Assyrians depended as much upon +artificial irrigation as upon the winter rains. They were skilful in +constructing machines for raising water, and their system of canals was +as remarkable for its ingenuity as for the knowledge of hydraulics it +displayed.” Since the result of irrigation in those ancient days +was two to three hundred-fold, surely if carried out to-day with the +additional knowledge of modern science and experience the ground would +yield an even larger return. It has been estimated that +£8,000,000 would be sufficient to reopen all the old canals of +Mesopotamia, with the certainty that the land thus irrigated would +yield an abundant profit.</p> +<p>“Ensha’allah,” this much-talked-of scheme will +soon be carried out, and Mesopotamia become once more “a land of +corn and wine, a land of bread and vineyards, a land of olive oil and +of honey.” <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb186" href="#pb186" +name="pb186">186</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch2.2" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter II</h2> +<h2 class="main">The People of Mosul</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first"> +Population—Moslems—Christians—Chaldeans—Nestorians—Jacobites—Arabs—Kurds—Jews—Yezidees— +Recreations—Warfare of the slingers—Hammam Ali—The +recreation ground of Mosul men and women.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line xd20e2463">”... The world is great,</p> +<p class="line">But each has but his own land in the world.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">A. C. Swinburne.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The population of Mosul has been estimated to be +anything between sixty and eighty thousand people. If the whole +“vilayet” is included the number will be something like a +million and a half. These people are made up of many different +nationalities and tribes, each retaining its own leading +characteristics, whilst many have a language peculiar to +themselves.</p> +<p>The inhabitants of Mosul are chiefly Arabs, of whom by far the +larger part are Mohammedans. These of course form the strong religious +element in the city, as they are the conquerors of the land. This is a +fact, too, which they take care never to lose sight of. In the market, +the mosque, and the street, the Mohammedan is always proclaiming by +look, word, and deed that <i>he</i> is the master. A Christian finds +himself at a great disadvantage in the market, for when buying from a +Moslem he is not allowed to handle the food, and must purchase his +goods to a great extent on trust. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb187" +href="#pb187" name="pb187">187</a>]</span></p> +<p>In all mosques, which once were Christian churches, it is customary +for the mullah to preach with a naked sword in his hand. This is done +in order to remind the people that the Mohammedan religion was +propagated by the sword, and must, if necessary, be retained by the +same means. In the streets the difference is very marked between the +two, the Mohammedan behaving as if the whole place belonged to him, +while the Christians, and more especially the Jews, always appear as if +they were apologising for their very existence.</p> +<p>The Moslems are the rulers, and they make their power felt. An +amusing instance illustrating this feeling occurred a short time ago. A +little Moslem boy was walking through the street on his way to our +house when, apparently without any provocation, a Christian girl began +to revile him as he passed. The boy instantly turned on the girl and +gave her a thrashing. I did not hear anything of this for some days, +and then only in an indirect way. Some one told me that the boy had +received a severe beating from the master of the school which he was +attending, and on asking the reason of the punishment was told the +foregoing story. I am very fond of the boy, he is such a dear, bright +little chap, with great wondering eyes. Upon hearing the history of his +encounter with the girl, I sent for the boy, and tried to tell him how +wrong it was for a man to strike a woman. “But,” said the +boy, quite innocently, “she was a Christian!” Thus early in +life is instilled into the young mind of the Moslem his inherent right +to act the tyrant.</p> +<p>On the other hand, it is a strange truth that <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb188" href="#pb188" name= +"pb188">188</a>]</span>Moslems very often prefer to have Christian +servants in their houses, as they find they are more faithful. In many +hareems the “slaves,” or girls who have been bought for +life, are very often children of Christian parents, who have been +willing for a few pounds to sell their girls. The reverse of this is +also true, that Christian families often find that a Moslem servant is +more trustworthy than one of their own religion. A few months ago I +heard of a little black boy in Mosul, whose mother, a Moslem negress, +was anxious to find him a home. We offered to take the boy and bring +him up, but the mother absolutely refused our offer, as we were +Christians, and she was afraid her boy might become the same, as he was +then only one year old, and had not yet learnt to hate the +Christians!</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2486width" id="p188"><img src="images/p188.jpg" +alt="A Picnic Party" width="720" height="478"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A <span class="corr" id= +"xd20e2490" title="Source: Pic-nic">Picnic</span> Party</span></p> +<p class="first">The women of Mosul thoroughly enjoy a day spent in the +country. On the day on which this photo was taken about forty Christian +women had come to spend the day with us in a lovely garden, kindly lent +to us for the occasion. Lunch was served in the verandah of the house, +and afterwards games were played till tea-time.</p> +</div> +<p>There are some 15,000 to 20,000 Christians in Mosul, who are said to +date their conversion back to the time of St. Adday, who was a disciple +of St. Thomas; others migrated from Baghdad to Mosul at the time of the +Caliphas. These Christians have remained firm to the religion of their +forefathers in spite of much persecution and many trials. To-day in +Mosul there are many different sects of Christians to be found, viz. +the Chaldean, Syrian, Nestorian, Jacobite, Armenian, and Greek. The +Chaldeans in Mosul now entirely belong to the Romish Church, having +been admitted to that body about a hundred years ago by means of the +Dominican Mission who started work amongst these ancient Christians. +They have their own bishop and archbishop, the Patriarch making Mosul +his headquarters since 1256. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb189" href= +"#pb189" name="pb189">189</a>]</span></p> +<p>The Nestorians are the true Chaldeans, and repudiate the name +Nestorian. They live amongst the mountains, have resisted all efforts +of the Romish Church, and remain true to the faith of their fathers. +They, in common with the other Christians, date their Christianity from +the time of the Apostles as the converts of St. Thomas. They refuse to +accept Nestorius, the Patriarch of Constantinople, as their founder, +saying that he was a Greek, while they were Syrians. They assert that +“he did not even know our language, and so how could he have +propagated his doctrines among us?” and they also declare that +their religion was an established fact long before Nestorius was born. +They have their own Patriarch, who resides near Van, a distance of ten +days from Mosul. They regard the Pope and his followers with feelings +of great hatred, and are said to curse him and his forefathers +regularly every day. In answer to a message from the Pope urging +reconciliation with Rome, the Patriarch sent the following answer: +“I shall never become a Roman Catholic, and should you ever +induce my people to do so, I would sooner become a dervish or a mullah +than degrade myself by an alliance with the Pope.”</p> +<p>The Patriarch of the Nestorians is not allowed to marry; he is also +compelled to be a strict vegetarian. When it is thought advisable to +nominate a successor to the archbishopric, the wife of a near relative +(if possible, a brother) of the then Patriarch is chosen as the +possible mother of the future dignitary. She is set apart as holy till +the birth of her child, her diet meanwhile being strictly <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb190" href="#pb190" name= +"pb190">190</a>]</span>vegetarian. If the child proves to be a boy, he +is solemnly dedicated to God from his birth, and is never allowed to +touch meat or flesh of any kind. Should the child unfortunately be a +girl, the choice has to be made again, and great is the disappointment +of the mother, the honour of being the mother of a Patriarch being much +coveted and prized.</p> +<p>In 1843 these people suffered a terrible massacre at the hands of +the Kurds; 10,000 of them are said to have perished, and after being +hunted from place to place the Patriarch finally fled for refuge to the +English Consulate at Mosul.</p> +<p>The Jacobite section of the Christian Church in Mosul is a small +one, and so far remains firm to its old faith, resisting all attempts +by the Church of Rome to effect a union. It, too, has its own bishop in +Mosul, but the Patriarch resides in Mardin, where he has many thousands +of adherents. He pays periodical visits to his scattered flock in Mosul +and the surrounding country. They trace the origin of their name to one +Jacob Baradæus, a Reformer who arose in the sixth century, and +refusing to follow the lead of the other Syrians in joining the Romish +Church, continued in the old faith, which has since been called by his +name (an alternative name being the Old Syrian Church).</p> +<p>The population of Mosul also consists of Arabs, Kurds, Yezidees, and +Jews.</p> +<p>The Arabs are the original inhabitants of the desert, who date their +descent back to the time of Shem, the son of Noah. They are divided +into many tribes, of which the most important in Mesopotamia +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb191" href="#pb191" name= +"pb191">191</a>]</span>is that of the great Shammar clan, who are to be +found in all parts. There are three classes of Arabs, namely, those who +have settled down in one place and become town Arabs, such as the +inhabitants of Mosul: the wandering tribes of the desert or Bedouins, +who live in tents and whose occupation is sheep farming: a third class +of Arabs are the robbers of the desert, who subsist solely by plunder, +and roam the desert seeking for a livelihood by any means that may come +to their hand. The wandering tribes find it very hard to settle down to +a fixed abode after the free life of the desert, and they prefer often +to suffer pain and inconvenience rather than spend a few days or weeks +beneath a roof and within the walls of a hospital.</p> +<p>A story is told of a Bedouin lady of the seventh century, whose +husband rose afterwards to be one of the Caliphs. When taken to +Damascus to live in luxury and state, she pined for the freedom of the +desert, and gave utterance to her loneliness in the following +verses:—</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<div class="lg"> +<p class="line">“A tent with rustling breezes cool</p> +<p class="line xd20e1099">Delights me more than palace high,</p> +<p class="line">And more the cloak of simple wool</p> +<p class="line xd20e1099">Than robes in which I learned to sigh.</p> +</div> +<div class="lg"> +<p class="line">The crust I ate beside my tent</p> +<p class="line xd20e1099">Was more than this fine bread to me;</p> +<p class="line">The wind’s voice where the hill-path went</p> +<p class="line xd20e1099">Was more than tambourine can +be.”<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2537src" href="#xd20e2537" name= +"xd20e2537src">1</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<p class="first">Arab women have come to the hospital from time to +time, but they always long to return to their <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb192" href="#pb192" name= +"pb192">192</a>]</span>desert life, and are impatient at the restraints +of town life.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2543width" id="p192"><img src="images/p192.jpg" +alt="Mutrâv Paulus" width="483" height="720"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Mutrâv Paulus</span></p> +<p class="first">Bishop of the Syrian Roman Catholic Church in +Mosul.</p> +</div> +<p>The Kurds are a warlike people inhabiting the mountains round Mosul. +They are the descendants of the wild people of the mountains mentioned +by Xenophon as the Karduchi, who so severely harassed the Greeks during +their retreat. In later years they were known as the Parthians, who +opposed the Romans. From this people came the celebrated Saladin, the +opponent of Richard Cœur de Lion in the crusading days. The Kurds +have been compared to the old Scottish Highlanders, who were noted for +their devotion to their chiefs. A well-known writer, in speaking of +this trait in the character of these people, says that once he heard +the following story: “A chieftain having died, one of his +followers, who was standing on the roof of his house when the news of +his master’s death was brought to him, exclaimed, ‘What! is +the Beg dead? Then I will not live another moment,’ and +immediately threw himself from the roof and was dashed to +pieces.”</p> +<p>A few of these Kurds are Nestorians, but the majority of them are +Moslems, and are a very fierce-looking set of people. They carry as a +rule large daggers in the waistband, and are quite capable of using +them when necessary. We once had a servant who was a Kurd, and although +as a rule a peaceable man, he often longed to be off when he heard of +any fighting going on in his country. He used to boast to the other +servants of the many people he had robbed and murdered! but said of +course he would never harm us, as we <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb193" href="#pb193" name="pb193">193</a>]</span>were in the place of +father and mother to him. We are quite hoping to secure his services +again on our return to Mosul.</p> +<p>There are about two thousand Jews in Mosul, who date their descent +from the time of the Captivity. When Cyrus issued his decree allowing +all Jews to return to their native land, about fifty thousand of those +living in Mesopotamia joyfully availed themselves of this permission, +but a few preferred to remain in their adopted land, and their +descendants are there to this day. In spite of much persecution, they +have remained firm in their belief. Mohammed quite hoped at first that +the Jews would easily be converted to Mohammedanism. He therefore +instructed all his followers to turn their faces towards the temple at +Jerusalem when praying, but before many months he saw that his hopes in +this direction were doomed to disappointment. He therefore withdrew his +former instructions, and ordained that in future all Mohammedans should +turn to the Ka’aba at Mecca when engaged in prayer.</p> +<p>The Jews in Mosul are looked down upon and despised by Christian and +Moslem alike. In the dispensary it is sad to see with what loathing the +Jews are treated. The scornful way in which the word +“Yahudi” (Jew) is hurled at these people is enough to make +one’s heart ache for them. If there is anything degrading to be +done, a Jew is the only one to be found willing to do it. The Jews are +the shoe-blacks of Mosul. It being considered very degrading to clean +boots and shoes, the Jew undertakes this task, receiving payment at the +rate of about ¼d. a pair. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb194" +href="#pb194" name="pb194">194</a>]</span></p> +<p>It is a wonderful sight to see all these different +nationalities—Moslems, Christians, Jews, Kurds, Arabs, Devil +Worshippers—all sitting down together in the waiting-room of the +dispensary while waiting their turn to see the doctor.</p> +<p>It reminds one of the picture of Peace, in which the artist depicts +the lion, the leopard, and the wolf living in harmony with the lamb. I +am afraid the resemblance is only superficial, for in the hearts of +that rude miscellaneous throng there is little of peace, and much of +anger, wrath, jealousy, hatred, and murder.</p> +<p>The dwellers in the desert and mountain would scorn the idea of +passing the time in recreations of any kind, but the town gentlemen +much enjoy a little relaxation from their arduous (?) labours. Riding +and racing are much in vogue in Mosul. Just outside one of the gates is +a long, level stretch of land, uncultivated, which is used by the +sporting part of the population for racing. Betting is not a part of +the programme. Any one who possesses a horse is at liberty to enter it +for the races; and every Thursday afternoon a large conclave of people +may be seen watching the performance with great interest. Horse dealers +who have horses for sale race their animals with the hope that they +will carry off the palm, in which case the value of the horse is +considerably raised.</p> +<p>A few of the Mosul men go in for hunting, but it is not a favourite +pastime. My husband sometimes goes with some of the Begs, who are fond +of hawking. The boys much enjoy slinging, and some of them are quite +experts at it, at times their <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb195" +href="#pb195" name="pb195">195</a>]</span>aim being rather too +accurate. The spring is the season for slinging, and hundreds of boys +may be seen outside the town on a fine day armed with these instruments +of torture. They line up along the walls of the city, and take aim at +every passer-by. This is somewhat disconcerting, especially when some +little boy takes a shot at your horse’s head or tail, a game of +which the animal does not at all approve. Or sometimes the boys form +armies, each opposing side being composed of an equal number of +slingers. They stand at a distance of about fifty yards apart and +commence warfare in real earnest. It is rather a terrible ordeal to +have to run the gauntlet of these two opposing armies. The stones seem +to whizz round one’s head in a most alarming manner; but although +my mare has received a few stray shots of which she much disapproved, +yet I have fortunately never actually been hit. Occasionally boys +become so vicious in their excitement that the Government here has to +put a stop to their “wars” for a time, as they do so much +injury to one another.</p> +<p>A form of recreation which is indulged in by all the Mosul people is +that of paying a yearly visit to a hot sulphur spring. This spring is +situated about twelve miles from Mosul on the Baghdad road, and is +called Hammam Ali.</p> +<p>A small village has grown up around the spring, but cannot furnish +anything like the accommodation needed for the thousands of visitors +who flock there in the early summer. To meet this need, small booths +are built of dried grass, each family renting one for the time of their +visit. Two years ago it <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb196" href= +"#pb196" name="pb196">196</a>]</span>was estimated that ten thousand +people from Mosul were there at one time, all congregated together +without any proper accommodation, or any sanitary arrangements; the +consequence was that disease and sickness were very prevalent amongst +them, and many went seeking health, and found death.</p> +<p>Last year a similar number were as usual gathered at Hammam Ali, +when one evening a lighted match was carelessly thrown down, with the +result that in a few minutes many of these booths were a mass of +flames. Several children were burnt to death and two women.</p> +<p>The next day the exodus from the place was universal. We were +staying then at a house midway between Mosul and Hammam Ali, and +watched the procession of people returning, a steady stream from +morning till night. After a day or two, however, the sad episode was +forgotten, and visitors began to flock back again.</p> +<p>We once saw this celebrated place. It was on our way to Mosul, and +we arrived late one night at Hammam Ali, minus our tent. The villagers +kindly offered us the use of the Hammam (bath) for the night, so we +made a tour of inspection, but decided to decline their offer with +thanks.</p> +<p>The place was damp, dirty, and malodorous. We preferred to pass the +night in a stable, which looked a trifle more inviting, although full +of rat-holes. In the morning I paid a visit to the Hammam, as it was a +ladies’ bathing day, and found the bath crowded with women and +children, packed in like sardines in a box! The water was very hot, and +I wondered the women could stand <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb197" +href="#pb197" name="pb197">197</a>]</span>so long in it. Some of them +looked rather as if they had been boiled. Here were women and children, +apparently healthy, bathing in the same water as others suffering from +all manner of skin diseases and other horrible things. However, they +all looked perfectly happy and contented; and I would not grudge these +poor creatures any little pleasure which might help to brighten their +lives.</p> +<p>We shall see in the following chapters how little brightness they +possess, and, on the other hand, how much of sadness and sorrow. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb198" href="#pb198" name= +"pb198">198</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2537" href="#xd20e2537src" name="xd20e2537">1</a></span> Extract +from “The Literary History of the Arabs,” by R. A. +Nicholson, M.A.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch2.3" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter III</h2> +<h2 class="main">The River Tigris</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">The river Tigris—Ancient historical +interest—Garden of Eden—Origin of name +unknown—Swiftness—Sources—Navigation—Keleqs—Bathing, +fishing, washing—Crossing rivers.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“The softly lapsing river,</p> +<p class="line">It whispers in its flow,</p> +<p class="line">Of dear days gone for ever,</p> +<p class="line">Those days of long ago.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">P. B. Marston.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The river Tigris, on the banks of which Mosul is +situated, is a noble stream. Though inferior in length to its sister +the Euphrates, yet it is no mean rival, either in antiquity or +historical fame. They share together the distinction of having on their +banks the romantic spot reputed to be the Paradise of Adam and Eve. The +Garden of Eden is situated, according to the tradition of the country, +near the junction of the Euphrates and Tigris. When we passed that way +on our journey from Busrah to Baghdad, the land was flooded by the +spring rains, so we saw nothing of the beauties of Paradise.</p> +<p>The Tigris can also claim, in common with the Euphrates, an +interesting connection with some of the ancient kingdoms of the world, +extending back to early post-diluvian times. Near by, the Assyrian +Empire built its towns of splendour and strength. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb199" href="#pb199" name= +"pb199">199</a>]</span>Daniel records visions seen upon its banks, +Cyrus is said to have marched his troops along its shores, Alexander +overthrew the armies of the Medes and Persians near its basin, while in +the plain of Nineveh the dynasty of the Ommiade caliphs was destroyed +and supplanted by that of the Abassides. The origin of its name is +unknown, but it is thought that the swiftly-flowing character of the +river gave rise to its name. Hence the old Scriptural name Hiddekel, +signifying “swift or quick.” Owing to its wealth of +fertilising power, it is sometimes called by the Arabs +“Nahar-as-Salam,” the River of Peace. At all times the +Tigris is a swift river, but the velocity with which it travels differs +according to the season of the year, the swiftest time of all being in +the spring, when the snows from all the surrounding mountains melt and +rush down to the river, causing it often to overflow its banks, and +increasing its impetuosity to a great extent. At this time it is +possible to travel on the river from Mosul to Baghdad in forty-eight +hours, while in the late summer or autumn it takes at least ten or +twelve days. When flowing at its fastest rate, the Tigris is said to be +swifter than the Danube. The course of the river is a very winding one, +extending for about 1040 miles. Its breadth varies very much. At Mosul +it is a little less than 400 feet, at Baghdad about 600, while in one +place where another river flows into it, the width amounts to over 1000 +feet.</p> +<p>The sources of the Tigris are at an altitude about 5000 feet above +sea-level, but the greater part of its fall is accomplished at its +commencement, by the time it reaches Mosul the elevation above +sea-level <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb200" href="#pb200" name= +"pb200">200</a>]</span>is only 353 feet, the remainder of its course, a +distance of about 650 miles, being made by easy descent.</p> +<p>With a very little trouble the river could easily be made navigable +as far up as Mosul, the chief hindrance to this being obstructions in +the river which could be removed by dynamite or other explosives. A +day’s journey from Mosul by water there is a large dam stretching +right across the river, believed to have been built by Darius with the +intent to prevent Alexander from penetrating his dominions by means of +the river. When the Tigris is full this is not an insurmountable +barrier even as it exists now. During the summer and autumn the water +is very shallow, and steamers would find it difficult to reach Mosul, +but a little engineering could render the river navigable at all +seasons. Once or twice steamers have reached Mosul, thereby causing +great excitement amongst the natives. For the last thirty years it has +been the talk of Mosul that “steamers are coming,” but they +have not yet started. We heard a year ago that two steamers had been +chartered for plying between Mosul and Baghdad, and were only awaiting +a firman from the Sultan, but so far nothing has been seen of them.</p> +<p>Pending the inauguration of steamers, the natives still continue to +use the same method of river transport as existed in the days of +Abraham and Jonah. This consists of a raft-like construction, and is +employed for both passenger and goods traffic. It is composed of a +number of sheep or goat skins inflated and fastened close together, +upon which <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb201" href="#pb201" name= +"pb201">201</a>]</span>cross-bars of wood are laid and bound firmly in +place. The skins are examined daily and when necessary reinflated; +great care must be taken to keep them moist, for if they become dry +they are liable to burst. The raft is manned by one or two natives, +whose only work is to guide the “keleq,” as the raft is +called, to keep it in the middle of the stream, away from all dangerous +rocks and shoals. For this purpose a rough kind of oar is used, made +from the branch of a tree, with palm branches at the end forming the +blade. The keleq floats down the river with the current, the passengers +amusing themselves with singing and reciting stories.</p> +<p>When a European travels, a little hut is built for his convenience. +A light framework of lath is run up, just large enough to hold a +travelling bedstead and chair; this is covered with felt or water-proof +sheeting and placed upon the raft. On arrival at Baghdad the whole is +sold for about half its original price. The owner of the keleq sells +the planks of wood forming the floor of the raft, packs up carefully +his skins, and returns by land to Mosul, as the current is too strong +to allow of his return the same way as he came. He is then ready to be +hired for another journey. In good weather a journey on a raft is a +very pleasant mode of travelling. It has many advantages over +caravaning by land. There is no need of the early morning or midnight +scramble preparatory to the start. The owner simply ties up after +sunset, and as soon as dawn appears he quietly slips the rope, and off +the raft glides, while the passenger is still sweetly slumbering, +unconscious of any movement. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb202" href= +"#pb202" name="pb202">202</a>]</span></p> +<p>In summer, however, the river is the happy hunting-ground of flies +and mosquitoes, the result being that rest and sleep are impossible +either by day or night. In a storm, too, the keleq is not a very secure +place of refuge. An English lady travelling from Mosul to Baghdad was +once caught in a hurricane and her keleq blown about in such a way that +she expected every minute to find herself precipitated into the river, +while her little hut and all its contents were saturated through and +through with water.</p> +<p>A raft is a good target for the Arabs whose villages lie along the +banks of the river. An Englishman once placed his bicycle, which he was +taking home, on the top of his hut, thinking to keep it out of +harm’s way. The Arabs, seeing this extraordinary-looking machine, +at once came to the conclusion that it was a Maxim gun or some such +deadly weapon. They immediately opened fire, and continued shooting +till the raft was out of sight—fortunately with no serious +result.</p> +<p>The French Consul at Mosul was also attacked by Arabs when +travelling on a keleq. For seven hours they kept up an active fusilade, +both parties making good use of their guns.</p> +<p>The merchants of Mosul use these rafts for exporting their goods to +Baghdad and other places. After the harvest enormous keleqs may daily +be seen leaving Mosul, loaded heavily with wheat and corn. All goods +for the south are exported in this way. For these large commercial +rafts, about three to four hundred skins are used, while others contain +from fifty to two hundred, according to the size of <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb203" href="#pb203" name="pb203">203</a>]</span>raft +and number of passengers. A European travelling alone would need about +one hundred and fifty to two hundred skins to make a fairly comfortable +raft.</p> +<p>Natives often use a single inflated skin for travelling down the +river, sometimes even going as far as Baghdad on one. This latter feat +a man has been known to accomplish in twenty-four hours. It is by no +means as easy as it looks, to balance yourself on a skin; when bathing +we have often tried, but found it very difficult. The Arabs use these +skins as ferry-boats when the river is unfordable. They take off their +garments and tie them round their head as a turban, so that when they +reach the opposite side their clothes are quite dry.</p> +<p>In a village near Mosul I have seen women crossing the river in this +way, many of them carrying a child on her back in addition to a large +bundle of clothes which she has been washing in the river. The Arabs, +both men, women, and children, are quite at home in the +river—swimming as easily as ducks, and playing all manner of +games in the water; it is quite interesting to watch them from a +distance. The women do not take off their long loose garment, but just +hold the skirt of it in their teeth if it impedes their swimming. Last +summer we were staying for a time at a castle quite near the river, +about an hour’s ride from Mosul; while there we bathed almost +every day, a small wood running to the edge of the water acting as a +convenient dressing-place. The owner of the castle gave notice to all +the villagers that the wood was “hareem” each afternoon, so +we were always quite private. I engaged the services of an <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb204" href="#pb204" name="pb204">204</a>]</span>Arab +woman to teach me to swim whenever my husband could not be there. She +could swim like a fish herself, but had no idea of teaching any one +else; however, before our holidays were over I had mastered the art. +She would make me put one hand on her shoulder and then call out: +“Now, kick”—that was the sum total of her +instructions, “kick”! The river is considered very +dangerous for bathing unless you know it well. Shortly before we were +there last year, an Arab woman had been drowned. She was a good +swimmer, and was swimming in deep water, when suddenly she called out +that she was drowning, and before any one could go to her rescue she +sank, and was quickly carried down the stream by the current; when the +body was recovered life was quite extinct. For a few days the women +were too frightened to bathe in that place, thinking that death was due +to something in the water; but when we arrived a fortnight later they +had apparently quite recovered from their fright, and were bathing as +usual.</p> +<p>Another day we were watching the men playing in the water, when +suddenly a black object appeared in the distance floating down the +stream; it looked like the head of a baby. As it approached the place +where the men were bathing, one of our servants swam out to see what it +was, and found to his horror it was the body of a man. He brought it to +the bank, and every one rushed to view the corpse. Then came the +question as to who would bury it; no one was willing to do this, +although the body was that of an Arab, and all the onlookers were also +Arab villagers. We offered backsheesh to any one who <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb205" href="#pb205" name= +"pb205">205</a>]</span>would dig the grave, but no one volunteered, and +suggested pushing the body out into the current again to be carried to +Baghdad, as the easiest way of settling the matter. Finally a mullah +passed by, and seeing the body, ordered some men to bury it at once. We +were very thankful, as we could not bear to think of the poor body +floating down the stream, or being left exposed on the banks of the +river.</p> +<p>We watched some men dig a very shallow grave, and the body was laid +to rest, the mullah reciting some Moslem prayers ere it was covered +with earth and stones.</p> +<p>As one sees such scenes as this taking place, it is not pleasant to +think that this same river forms our sole water supply for drinking and +all domestic purposes! If we take a walk down the river to the place +where the water-carriers fetch the water, we shall have all the more +reason thoroughly to enjoy our water! There hundreds of women are to be +seen washing their clothes, men and boys enjoying a swim, horses, +mules, and donkeys revelling in the mud; while not at all unlikely a +few dead dogs or cats may be seen floating around! All congregate in +this favourite spot. This being the case, it is not surprising that +often our water resembles <i>mud</i> much more than water when brought +to the house. Needless to say, all our drinking-water is filtered and +boiled before using. The water is brought from the river in skins on +the back of donkeys or mules, at the rate of 3s. 4d. a hundred skins. +It seems so absurd to be paying in this way for water when, with a +comparatively speaking small outlay, it could easily be conveyed to +each house by means of pipes from the river running close <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb206" href="#pb206" name="pb206">206</a>]</span>by. +This has been done by an energetic Vali in Damascus, and the result is +enviable.</p> +<p>The Tigris cannot be said to contain a great or varied supply of +fish, but there are two or three kinds to be found, which help to vary +the housekeeping monotony of everlasting mutton and chicken. A very +large fish called “bis” is the best kind, as the meat is +tender and mild, while the bones are few; the others seem to be all +bones, and are hardly worth eating, besides being absolutely +flavourless.</p> +<p>Fishing is carried on from the bridge by the fish-sellers. A line is +generally used, baited with melon or pieces of flesh. Sometimes poison +is thrown into the river in order to kill the fish, which then float on +the top of the water and are easily caught. In the summer it is very +risky buying fish in the bazaar, as it so soon becomes stale; so if I +want to be quite sure of having fresh fish, I send a servant down to +the bridge to <i>see</i> a fish caught and then bring it home. As a +matter of fact, I fancy he does not at all like sitting in the sun +waiting, so often beguiles the time by sitting in the coffee-house +situated on the banks of the river; and then, having allowed an hour or +two to elapse, returns empty-handed, saying: “There are no fish +in the river to-day.”</p> +<p>Rivers without bridges are a great trial of patience when +journeying; it takes such a long time to transport everything, and the +crossing generally takes place at the end of a stage when every one is +tired, and—shall I confess it?—often cross too. The waiting +in the burning sun while the boats are fetched, the weary bargaining, +and all the usual trials of patience become exaggerated out of their +due proportions <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb207" href="#pb207" +name="pb207">207</a>]</span>when you know that just across the water is +the resting-place for the night—so near and yet so far! And as +you sit on the <i>wrong</i> side of the river waiting, waiting, it is +difficult to feel restful and at peace with all men. I long often to be +able to do as the animals do, <i>i.e.</i> swim over. A small charge is +made for the transport of each animal, so the muleteer often prefers to +swim over himself, taking his animals with him. There is as a rule only +one ferry-boat, so that you have to take your turn; and as each passage +takes about an hour, a great deal of patience is often needed.</p> +<p>The ferry-boat is a large flat-bottomed, antediluvian-looking +construction, and you wonder how ever it can bear the weight of all +that is put upon it. When a carriage is to be transported the horses +are first unharnessed, then the vehicle is lifted bodily on to the +boat, with all its contents, the passengers and horses finding +standing-room as best they can.</p> +<p>When you get to the other side your troubles are not over, for on +starting to put up the tent you find one of the poles has been left +behind on the other side; so there is nothing to do but to sit still +and continue the waiting process. Or perhaps you think a cup of tea +would help while away the time, only to find that the charcoal has not +yet arrived! So there is only one thing to do, and that is to wait till +everything is safely landed; then you can begin to prepare for the +long-delayed rest. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb208" href="#pb208" +name="pb208">208</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch2.4" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter IV</h2> +<h2 class="main">The Children of Mosul</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Spoiling process—Despair of the +parents—The “god” of the hareem—Death by +burning—Festivities at birth of boy—Cradles and cradle +songs—School life—Feast in honour of a boy having read the +Koran through—“Only a girl”—Girl +life—Girl victims of Naseeb—Marriage.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<p class="first">“The household must weep for forty days on the +birth of a girl.”</p> +<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Arabic Proverb.</span></p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Is it all forgot? All schooldays’ +friendship,</p> +<p class="line">Childhood’s innocence?”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Where children are not, heaven is +not.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">A. Swinburne.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The children of Mosul have on the whole a very good +time. From their earliest days they are allowed to do pretty much as +they like, and only when the process of spoiling is completed, and the +child has become a terror to all, do the parents realise that it is far +easier to spoil a child than to “unspoil” him, once the +deed is done. This method, or rather lack of method, of bringing up the +children, is a great cause of trouble and sorrow in after years both to +the parents and to the children themselves, but yet they never seem to +profit by their experiences, for they still continue to say that it is +a great “aib” or shame to deny a child anything he may +want. Although this spoiling process is carried on with both boys and +girls in the earlier years of their lives, it is brought to perfection +in their treatment of the boys.</p> +<p>I remember a pretty little child called Jamila <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb209" href="#pb209" name= +"pb209">209</a>]</span>(beautiful); she was so fair and pretty that she +was known by many as “the English child.” When she was +about three years old she became very ill, and the mother brought her +to my husband, who prescribed for her, but said that the chief part of +the treatment lay in the diet. On no account was solid food to be given +for at least three or four days. The mother looked in despair when she +heard this, as she said, “Jamila will cry if she cannot have her +meat and bread and pillau!” A day or two later I was calling at +the house, and saw that Jamila was looking very ill, and asked the +mother what the child had been eating. “Oh,” she said, +“poor little child, I had to give her meat and bread, for she +tore her hair and clothes in her anger, on my refusing to give them to +her, and so, how could I deny them to her?” And sure enough, +while I was there, Jamila began to cry for bread, and on her mother +refusing, threw herself on the ground in a paroxysm of anger, beating +her head and face with her clenched fist, till she was quite blue and +black in the face. The mother ran at once and brought bread and meat, +and gave to the child, who immediately recovered her equanimity of mind +and temper.</p> +<p>Then again, I have seen a room full of people all in despair over a +child of perhaps two or three years old, who refuses to drink his +medicine ordered by the doctor. The father begins the performance by +solemnly taking the glass containing the medicine up to the child, and +saying to him, “Oh, my beloved, <i>will</i> you take this +medicine?” “No,” says the child, and pushes it away. +The father looks round on the audience for signs of wonder and +astonishment at the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb210" href="#pb210" +name="pb210">210</a>]</span>marvellous doings of the child. Then +perhaps the uncle has a try, and meets with like success; then the +mother, the aunts, and a few friends all beseech the child to take the +medicine, saying, “For my sake, for the sake of your father, your +mother, &c., take this,” but, of course, all are +unsuccessful, and they all shake their heads and say, “I told you +so, he will <i>not</i> take it,” and it being a +“khatiya” (sin) to force a child to do anything against his +will, the child, of course, gains the victory in this as in everything +else. If you suggest pouring the medicine down the child’s throat +by force, the parents and friends will put you down as being a monster +of cruelty.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2731width" id="p210-1"><img src= +"images/p210-1.jpg" alt="Dr. Hume-Griffith’s Study in Mosul" +width="588" height="431"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Dr. Hume-Griffith’s Study +in Mosul</span></p> +</div> +<div class="figure xd20e2736width" id="p210-2"><img src= +"images/p210-2.jpg" alt="Our Drawing-Room in Julfa" width="586" height= +"441"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Our Drawing-Room in +Julfa</span></p> +</div> +<p>If there happens to be only one boy in the hareem, he becomes almost +like a little god to all the women folk. A small friend of mine was in +this position, and although a very jolly little boy, was fast becoming +unbearable in his actions towards his grandmother, mother, and aunts. +He was only about eight years old, but one day he was calling on me +with his aunt, whom I loved very much, when, without the smallest +provocation, he suddenly took up a stick and gave his aunt two or three +hard cuts across her shoulders with it, and then ran laughing out of +the room. I did not say anything to the boy, but presently my husband +came in to lunch, and I asked him to give the boy a beating, and told +him what he had done. So we went to hunt for the boy, and found him +hiding behind his grandmother, who besought us not to touch the darling +boy. My husband gave the boy a very slight whipping, and told him if +ever he did such a thing again, he would give him something to +remember! The boy was so <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb211" href= +"#pb211" name="pb211">211</a>]</span>astonished at being chastised, +that to this day he has been a changed boy, and much more bearable in +his home life.</p> +<p>Another instance of the way the boys are spoilt. A woman and her +daughter, a little girl of about eight years, were sitting in their +verandah one day behind a pile of cotton which had just been +“fluffed” by the man whose work it is to fluff cotton. The +son of the woman, a boy of seven, thought it would be great fun to set +a light to this cotton, which he promptly did by throwing a lighted +match into the midst of it, with the result that his mother and sister +were burnt to death. I called at the house some days after, and found +the boy who had done this deed quite a hero in the eyes of the women +folk, and far from being blamed and punished, on the contrary they were +fondling and caressing him more than ever. I told them I thought the +boy was so pleased with all the attention he was receiving, that very +likely he would do the same thing again if he had the opportunity.</p> +<p>Let me give you a short sketch of a child’s life, in order +that you may see for yourself something of their everyday life.</p> +<p>As we are talking of Eastern children, we must begin with the boy, +as he is so much more important a personage than a mere girl.</p> +<p>A boy’s birth is celebrated by great rejoicings and feastings, +and if the family is a well-to-do one, at least two sheep will be slain +and cooked and given to the poor. Our next-door neighbours were +rejoicing over the birth of a boy a short time ago, and they thought it +necessary to sacrifice three sheep, and for <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb212" href="#pb212" name="pb212">212</a>]</span>two +days the poor were coming with their little dishes and pots to carry +away portions of the meat. I went to see this ceremony, and it was very +interesting. Apparently no questions were asked, the only +recommendations necessary being poverty and need. Also hundreds of +loaves of bread were given away at this time. If we go to the hareem to +admire and pay our homage to the little king, we must be careful not to +praise him too much, or, if we do, we must qualify our praise by saying +“Mash’allah,” which will counteract any evil +influence. We shall find the baby boy swathed up tightly in his +swaddling clothes, his eyebrows and eyelids pencilled with native +cosmetics, and very likely a beauty spot on his forehead; his little +head will be covered with a little silk cap, over which a handkerchief +will be wrapped, and on the cap will be seen some coins and blue beads, +to avert the dreaded evil eye. We shall find him very probably strapped +tightly into a cradle made of brightly-painted wood; the baby is laid +on the top of the little mattress, which is level with the sides of the +cradle, and then strapped down. As he grows out of his first cradle he +will be given another and larger one, and much more comfortable, in +which he need not be strapped, as the sides are high enough to prevent +his falling out; a cord is attached to the cradle, so that his mother +can swing him gently while she sits and spins or does anything she has +to do. It is very quaint to listen to their monotonous chant as they +rock the cradle, and very often they sing to the swing of the cradle, +“Allah ho, Allah hi, Allah ho, Allah hi,” “He is God, +He is living, He is God, He is living.” <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb213" href="#pb213" name="pb213">213</a>]</span></p> +<p>The first time of shaving a boy’s head is looked upon as a +very important day, and the barber must be careful to leave a little +tuft of hair on the top of the head, by which he can be pulled up into +heaven, otherwise he might get left behind.</p> +<p>When the boy is about five, he will probably be sent to school. He +is then dressed as a miniature man, in white knickerbockers, shirt, +coloured vest, and silk or cloth “zeboon,” a loose garment +reaching to the ankles; on his head, of course, will be the inevitable +red fez, adorned with charms to bring him good luck and keep off evil. +Arrived at the school, our little friend will seat himself on the +ground, and his education will begin by learning the <span class= +"Arabic" lang="ar">ا ب ت</span> (<i>alef</i>, +<i>bey</i>, <i>tey</i>), the A, B, C, of the Arabic language. After he +has mastered the alphabet, and can write a few words, then the Koran +will be started, and the boy will be kept hard at this, each day +learning a short portion till a chapter is known perfectly by heart. +All the boys in the school may be reciting different portions of the +Koran at the same time, and in a sing-song tone, so that, as you pass +up and down the streets, it is easy to recognise these seats of +learning for the young. I have often peeped into some of these schools, +and watched the boys, all seated on the ground, swaying themselves +backwards and forwards, repeating the Koran in a loud, monotonous +voice. When a boy has been through the Koran once, a great feast is +made in his honour. He is decked out in grand new garments, generally +of silk and embroidery, and men dancers are engaged for a day or more, +according to the means of the parents.</p> +<p>The son of a friend of mine in Mosul had just <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb214" href="#pb214" name= +"pb214">214</a>]</span>completed this part of his education, and his +mother sent word to know if the dancers might come and dance before us +in our compound. We thought this might be rather trying, as they would +probably have stayed all day, so I sent a message thanking her for the +honour, but saying I would prefer to come to her house to see the +“tamash” (sight), as I only had a limited time to give to +it. So at the time appointed I went, accompanied by a woman servant and +a man, as I thought there would probably be a great commotion. On +arriving at the door of the house, it seemed hopeless even to think of +getting in, as the courtyard was full of men, dancing, shouting, +yelling, whirling and slashing naked swords and daggers. The court was +a very small one, and my first thought was to turn and fly, but the +hostess was a very dear friend of mine, and I did not like to +disappoint her, so I sent the man-servant in front to open a passage in +the crowd and followed hard after him, and felt very thankful when we +reached a room safely. The women were gathered there looking out of the +windows at the fun. But this did not seem to please the dancers, for +they called repeatedly for the “khatoun” (lady) to come and +watch them, and some even followed me into the room, thereby throwing +the women into a state of panic and fright. The men were so wildly +excited that they hardly knew what they were doing. Stripped to the +waist, they flourished their swords and yelled, then jumped high into +the air, then crouched on the ground and again leapt into the air, all +the time pointing the daggers or swords either at their own hearts or +some one else’s. To <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb215" href= +"#pb215" name="pb215">215</a>]</span>add to the general excitement, +other men were beating drums and playing on a weird kind of stringed +instrument. After receiving their “backsheesh” they +departed, for which I was not sorry. The boy in whose honour all this +is taking place is very happy and delighted, and thinks <i>now</i> he +is a man, and so, as he is leaving his childhood behind him, we too +will leave him and pass on to the much less important subject (from an +Eastern standpoint) of the childhood of a girl.</p> +<p>“Only a girl”—“Only a girl.” These are +the words which generally follow the announcement of the birth of a +girl. Poor little mite, her entrance into the world is not a cause of +great joy or rejoicing, and from her earliest days, I think, this lies +as a shadow upon her; for to my mind there is a sadness and pathos +about the little girls quite different to the masterful looks and ways +of the boys, the lords of creation. As it is a part of the +Moslem’s creed to bow in submission to the will of God, so the +parents now, as always, say, “It is God’s will” +(“Al Allah”), and bow their heads in submission to this new +yoke put upon them. Of course there are exceptions, and some love their +little daughters very much, but taken as a rule, girls are not +welcome—certainly not more than one. If the parents of the girl +baby are well-to-do, perhaps they may sacrifice one sheep, but the +feastings and almsgiving are done in a much quieter way and with as +little ostentation as possible; and if you visit the mother it is not +necessary to say <i>very</i> much about the new arrival as it is +“only a girl,” and it is not well to make the poor mother +feel too sad.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2787width" id="p216"><img src="images/p216.jpg" +alt="A Group of Persian Girls" width="720" height="483"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Group of Persian +Girls</span></p> +<p class="first">Many of these little girls are very pretty and +winsome. The one sitting at the extreme left of the front row is a very +attractive child, and a great favourite of mine. Her name is +“Beloved.”</p> +</div> +<p><span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb216" href="#pb216" name= +"pb216">216</a>]</span></p> +<p>So the little girl starts her life, with not too much love and +attention. If she happens to be well and strong she will thrive apace +in spite of all, but if she is at all inclined to be weak or delicate, +the chances are that she will be neglected until it is too late for +human aid, and then perhaps, as a conscience salve, she will be taken +to the doctor by the mother or some other relative. How many of these +little victims have been brought when too late to my husband I should +not like to say. Directly the doctor sees a child suffering from some +terribly neglected disease he at once says, “A girl, of course! +If the child had been a boy you would have brought him long ago.” +And so, alas, it is true of many cases. It is a convenient way of +getting rid of some of a too numerous family of girls, and then the +mothers and relations will piously clasp their hands and say, “It +is the will of God.” The will of God, indeed! This so-called +submission to the will of God, or “kismet” or +“naseeb,” as the Turk and Arab call it, is often +responsible for a great deal of neglect by mothers of their little +girls. For instance, there was such a nice-looking young widow who used +to come and see me. She had two children, both girls, the elder about +five years of age, and the younger nearly three. This younger child was +a perfectly beautiful child—just like a lovely wax doll; indeed, +so much did she resemble a doll that she was often called +“l’abbi,” which means a doll. Her sweet little face +had a complexion which any English mother might have been proud of, and +her large brown eyes were full of life and fun, while her dear little +golden curls falling over her forehead and <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb217" href="#pb217" name= +"pb217">217</a>]</span>forming a halo round her head gave her an +appearance of a little cherub. I found out very soon that this child +had the beginnings of a terrible disease in her, which, if attended to +at once, might be cured, but which neglected would mean certain and +sure death. I spoke to the mother about it, and implored her to bring +the child to the hospital for treatment; but no, she would not listen; +she simply shrugged her shoulders and said, “Naseeb, al Allah. If +the child is to die, she will die; if it is written she is to live, she +will live,” and nothing I could say would induce her either to +bring the child or to let us have her to take care of; and I heard +afterwards from a neighbour that the mother wanted the little girlie to +die, so that she might be free to marry again, as no man would take a +wife who already was burdened with two girls. Instances of this kind +might be multiplied by the hundred, showing how girl life is neglected, +under the blasphemous idea that it is “naseeb.”</p> +<p>As a rule it is not considered at all necessary to send a Moslem +girl to school, but quite lately the Turkish authorities have opened +some schools for girls in Mosul, and have sent women teachers from +Constantinople, so this is a step in the right direction. I visited one +of these schools, and was very much struck by the happier looks of the +girls compared with the faces of the same girls in their own homes. +They are taught to read and write and, of course, to recite the Koran. +Also, we were shown some very pretty pieces of silk embroidery which +the girls had just finished, and really some were quite artistic and +pretty. These schools are free, the <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb218" href="#pb218" name="pb218">218</a>]</span>teachers being paid +by Government, and, therefore, girls of all classes sit side by side. +The pasha’s daughter and the daughter of the pasha’s slave +may both attend the same school and mix quite freely and happily +together.</p> +<p>For the first seven or eight years of a girl’s life she may go +unveiled and run about pretty freely with only a silk scarf on her +head, but when she reaches the age of nine or thereabout a great change +takes place in her life. She is prohibited from going out, except +occasionally with the mother or other relations, and then she must be +closely veiled. Poor children, I do so often pity them—they so +soon leave their childhood behind them and become women before they +come to girlhood. Of course the great aim and object of parents is to +marry the girls as soon as possible to the man who can offer the +highest price for her; but the subject of weddings is so extensive that +we must leave it for another chapter. Only I will say here that I think +the reason girls are looked upon more or less as a nuisance is because +they cost so much to get married; for if a father has three or four +girls to marry, he needs to be a rich man. From the time the girl is +four or five years old he begins loading her with gold and jewellery, +so that by the day she comes to be of a marriageable age she shall have +a good supply to offer to her would-be husband. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb219" href="#pb219" name="pb219">219</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch2.5" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter V</h2> +<h2 class="main">The Moslem Women of Mosul</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Beauty behind the veil—Types of beauty—My +dear old friend of 110 years of age—Aids to beauty +described—Pretty children—Beauty tainted with +sin—Imprisonment of women—Peeps into some +hareems—Warm receptions—A visit from the ladies of a select +hareem—Love the magic key to open hearts.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<p class="first">“Women are worthless creatures, and soil +men’s reputations.”</p> +<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Arabic Proverb.</span></p> +<p>“As I told you always, her beauty and her brain go not +together.”</p> +<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">It has often been said that there is very little +beauty to be seen behind the veil in Turkish Arabia. I certainly do not +agree with this statement, for I have seen some very beautiful faces +amongst the Mohammedan women of Mosul. There is beauty, too, to suit +all tastes: the winsome blonde, with her pale blue eyes and fair hair; +the striking brunette, peeping from behind her veil with laughing brown +eyes, which at times are as full of pathos as those of a faithful +collie which has lost its master.</p> +<p>I think the chief attraction of Eastern women lies in their eyes. +One face comes to my mind as I write. It is not a pretty face in the +ordinary sense of the word, but the eyes are wonderful, revealing a +soul full of sadness, a longing for something not attainable: eyes that +might make you <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb220" href="#pb220" name= +"pb220">220</a>]</span>weep as you feel them fixed upon you in +unspeakable yearning for love. Another type of face is the bright, +vivacious one, seen chiefly amongst young unmarried +women—marriage in the East generally having the effect of taking +all brightness out of a face or a life. There is also many a sweet face +to be seen in Mosul. Perhaps these could not be called beautiful except +for the sweetness. One such I can see now as my memory takes me back a +few months. A dear face is pressed close to mine, and with pleading +blue eyes and such a sweet, expressive mouth which utters words such as +these: “Khatoun, I cannot go—I cannot leave you. Will you +let me live always with you?”</p> +<p>If only you knew the history of this woman, you would wonder that +her face could bear such a sweet look, or, indeed, how she managed to +endure life at all.</p> +<p>Beauty of the East is all too fleeting as a rule, a woman of thirty +years of age being quite <i>passée</i>. Nevertheless, there are +some very fine-looking old ladies in Mosul. One dear friend of mine is +proud of the fact that she has reached the grand age of 110! Her face +still retains some of its former beauty. Her daughter is a young woman +of nearly ninety, her grand-daughter can boast of seventy years, while +as to her great-grandchildren, they are countless!</p> +<p>This old lady came one day to the dispensary for medicine, as she +wished to be “made strong” enough to take a journey +consisting of six hours’ riding to a hot-water spring outside +Mosul, a place to which she had been in the habit of going regularly +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb221" href="#pb221" name= +"pb221">221</a>]</span>for the last 100 years or so! She was also quite +distressed because her skin was rough, and asked the doctor to give her +some medicine to make it smooth again. Even at 110 she was capable of +thinking of and longing for a renewal of her lost beauty. Aids to +beauty are much sought after by the ladies of Mosul, as they do not at +all approve of becoming “old.” It is quite a rare sight to +see a white-haired woman. The moment grey hairs commence to appear they +have recourse to henna, a dye much in request by Easterns of both +sexes. Freckles are a cause of much sorrow of heart to Mosul ladies. +One girl, who was really very pretty, was brought constantly to the +dispensary by her mother, who implored my husband to eradicate the +freckles with which her daughter’s face was covered, as, if they +were not removed, she might never get a proposal of marriage. However, +a man was forthcoming who apparently did not object to freckles, for +shortly before leaving Mosul I received an invitation to this +girl’s wedding-feast.</p> +<p>There are some very pretty children in Mosul, some dark, others +fair, with blue eyes and curly hair. However, this latter style of +beauty is not as a rule admired. Mothers have a great horror lest their +children should have curly hair. If a child possesses it, the women try +by all means in their power to straighten out the curls, sometimes even +coming to ask for medicine for this purpose.</p> +<p>Very often, however, the children lose a great deal of their beauty +when five or six years old. Perhaps it is because their souls at that +age become tainted with knowledge of evil, and this knowledge is +reflected <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb222" href="#pb222" name= +"pb222">222</a>]</span>on their faces. It is heartrending to see pretty +little children listening open-mouthed to some horrible tale of sin and +wickedness told by a member of the hareem. It is true there is beauty +behind the veil, but, alas! it is beauty tainted with the blackness of +sin. How can lives be beautiful when the souls within are +dead?—as dead as sin and sorrow can make them. Boys and girls +grow up amidst surroundings which soon soil their souls; the +“innocency of childhood,” so dear to the hearts of English +parents, is unknown in a Moslem hareem.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2849width" id="p222-1"><img src= +"images/p222-1.jpg" alt="The Camera in Mosul" width="587" height="403"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">The Camera in Mosul</span></p> +<p class="first">The women love to be photographed, and often ask me to +“make pictures of them.” These are Christian women, for no +Moslem woman is allowed to have her photo taken.</p> +</div> +<div class="figure xd20e2856width" id="p222-2"><img src= +"images/p222-2.jpg" alt="Tired of Play at a Picnic" width="586" height= +"403"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Tired of Play at a +Picnic</span></p> +<p class="first">When all were tired out with playing games and +swinging, tea was handed round.</p> +</div> +<p>Many and many a time have I interrupted a conversation consisting of +things which should not be spoken of, by pointing out to the women some +boys or girls sitting near by, listening with evident delight to their +unclean talk. Sometimes they would desist, but as a rule would only +laugh, saying: “What does it matter? They know all about +it!” Oh! the pity and horror of it—young lives spoilt and +contaminated almost before their feet have started on the difficult and +perilous walk through life. Is it any wonder that these children grow +up with diseased minds and deadened souls? Then they in their turn +become the parents of another generation, to whom they teach the same +soul-destroying creeds.</p> +<p>There is no hope for the children of Mohammedan lands until the +mothers have learnt a little of the meaning of pure life and +conversation. There is no hope for the women while the men are what +they are. The whole system is one of degradation and vice. When +Mohammed, acting under what he declared to be a revelation from Allah, +introduced the use of the veil, he swept away for ever all hope +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb223" href="#pb223" name= +"pb223">223</a>]</span>of happiness for Moslem women. By means of the +veil he immured them for ever in a living grave. “Imprisoned for +life” is the verdict written against each Moslem woman as she +leaves childhood behind her. Before the days of Mohammed the Arabs were +in the habit of burying alive yearly a certain number of new-born +girls; surely the fate of these innocents was better than that of the +millions of women to-day who are buried alive behind the veil. +“Ensha’ Allah” (God willing), in the near future the +same Power which raised British women to hold the position they now do +will also penetrate through the prison bars of the hareems of +Mohammedan lands and set free the prisoners. An enlightened Mohammedan +gentleman once said: “The only hope for our women is +Christianity.” God grant that their “only hope” may +not be denied them.</p> +<p>How often I have said to these women, “Alhamd-’llillah +(thank God), I am not a Moslem woman!” and the heartfelt answer +has always been, “Yes, indeed, you may thank God; but it is +naseeb” (fate). The longer I live amongst Moslem women the more +my heart yearns with love and pity for them, and the more thankful I am +that their lot is not mine.</p> +<p>Let us now peep into some of the many hareems of Mosul. There are +some into which I should blush with shame to take my readers, on +account of the conversations we might hear; but we will choose some +where, in all probability, we shall see and hear nothing +objectionable.</p> +<p>Our first visit shall be to a near neighbour of ours. The house is a +large one, the owner holding a high social position in the town. As we +enter the outside <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb224" href="#pb224" +name="pb224">224</a>]</span>gates we see a large reception-room, in +which the master of the house is sitting holding court. We must not +look that way, as we are in native costume; so, pulling our veils a +little closer, we hurry on till we reach the door of the hareem. This +is always kept locked; upon knocking, it is opened by a native girl or +woman, who immediately kisses our hands or dress, then ushers us into +the presence of the khatoun. In this case the head lady of the hareem +has been a widow for some years, and is still wearing her black +mourning dress. She rises from her place amongst the cushions on the +floor as we enter and salaams low, bidding us welcome to her house, at +the same time indicating our seats by her side. We arrange ourselves as +comfortably as possible, sitting cross-legged in true Arab fashion. +By-and-by the daughter-in-law comes in—a frail, delicate-looking +woman, and with her a little girl, her only child. She is sad because +she has no boy, and is afraid her husband will divorce her on this +account.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2878width" id="p224"><img src="images/p224.jpg" +alt="An Itinerant Cook preparing Kabobs" width="720" height="560"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">An Itinerant Cook preparing +Kabobs</span></p> +<p class="first">Kabobs are a favourite dish amongst the Arabs. The +meat is chopped very finely, wrapped round iron skewers, and roasted +over a red-hot charcoal fire.</p> +</div> +<p>Since leaving Mosul I have heard that her fears on this point were +not groundless, for her husband has since divorced her and taken +another wife in her place. The usual coffee is handed round by one of +the many women servants, and our hostess is very much surprised that we +will not join her in smoking a cigarette. Sometimes there are a dozen +or so women living in the same hareem, wives of brothers, and it is +often difficult to know who is who. The relationships are sometimes +most perplexing. Even to this day there are houses which I visit +frequently, but have not yet mastered the intricate +“connections” of the various members of the hareem. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb225" href="#pb225" name= +"pb225">225</a>]</span></p> +<p>Here is another hareem, quite different from the last one we +visited. My special friends in this house are two young girls who are +not yet married. They are such dear, bright girls, and as I enter throw +their arms round my neck and bid me welcome in a most demonstrative +way. If I am expected I always find a meal ready, and if my visit is +unannounced, a woman is always despatched to the nearest +“sook” (market) to buy an impromptu meal. They are poor +people, and I always beg them not to do this, but they never listen to +my entreaties. The meal consists sometimes of “kabobs,” +<i>i.e.</i> meat minced and pressed round iron skewers and grilled over +a charcoal fire; this is placed on a plate and garnished with sliced +raw onions and bitter herbs. Another time a sheep had been killed, and +our meal consisted of the “interiors,” dished in a most +tempting manner. Sometimes salads form the principal dish; but whatever +the meal consists of, it is always served with love, and is +consequently thoroughly appreciated. This house seems always to be full +of women, all more or less related. If I get mixed up, as I sometimes +do, in the relationship of those present, and show my ignorance of +their names, they are quite hurt, and exclaim: “What, you have +forgotten me?” “Was I not in the hospital for a +week?” or, “Did I not bring So-and-so to see you?” If +they have seen me once, they are quite surprised if I cannot remember +all about them, and often I have to resort to stratagem to find out +their names without exposing my forgetfulness. While we sit and talk +the girls are all busily engaged in crotcheting caps. These are sold in +the sook at about six-pence <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb226" href= +"#pb226" name="pb226">226</a>]</span>a dozen, cotton included. In +certain “mahullahs” (quarters) of the town you will see all +the women doing this work; in another part of the town they are all +occupied with knitting socks, in another cigarette-making is the +fashion. Each mahullah seems to have its own style of work for the +women, to which it adheres more or less.</p> +<p>In one house where I visit, a basin of delicious +“lebban” is always set before me. We all sit on the floor +round a diminutive table about five inches high, and each one being +provided with a wooden spoon dips out the lebban from the central dish. +This lebban makes a delicious food in the hot weather. It is made +something after the same manner as “junket,” only lebban is +more tart and acid. Eaten with grated cucumbers, it makes a very +refreshing salad. Fortunately for me, I can eat and, as a rule, +thoroughly enjoy native food. In fact, I often prefer it to our own, +for almost all attempts at European cookery by native cooks are decided +failures. My husband, on the other hand, cannot indulge in this +respect, the excessive fat used being too much for his digestive +powers.</p> +<p>But to return to our ladies. Not only do I visit in the hareems of +the towns, but the hareems very often pay me a visit at our house. The +poorer class of women come very freely, and they know that they are +always welcome. We have a room specially set apart for women visitors, +so that they may feel quite safe from any men servants who might happen +to be about. The higher-class ladies do not come so frequently, the +idea being that the more strictly they keep to their own hareem, the +more select and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb227" href="#pb227" +name="pb227">227</a>]</span>important will they become in the eyes of +the people. There is one family in Mosul who boast that their hareem +have never visited any other house. So strictly have the ladies been +kept in seclusion, that they were not even allowed to go to the +“hammam” (bath) till quite lately. Now, however, they are +allowed the luxury of once a month walking a hundred yards or so to the +nearest bath. After becoming acquainted with the ladies of this hareem +I was very anxious to obtain permission for them to come and visit me. +They did not at all hold out any hope that their lords and masters +would allow such an unheard-of proceeding. One day, however, my husband +told the head of the house that I was very anxious for the ladies of +his hareem to come and see me. To the great surprise of all he +acquiesced, only stipulating that the visit should be kept as secret as +possible. The ladies were very excited, and for days beforehand were +talking about the proposed visit and making preparations for it. On the +day fixed the way had to be cleared of all menkind. The doctor was +banished from the house for the whole afternoon, the men servants were +given a holiday, and all doors through which a stray man might happen +to wander were carefully bolted and barred.</p> +<p>At the hour appointed a woman servant arrived to know if all was +ready. When she had satisfied herself that no men were visible, nor +could become so unexpectedly, she returned to fetch the ladies. They +arrived in all the glory of black silk chuddars, which Judy (our woman +servant) carefully removed and folded up. The two older ladies were +quite <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb228" href="#pb228" name= +"pb228">228</a>]</span>simply dressed in print or muslin, but the young +wife was decked out in one of her many bridal costumes, and looked very +charming. She was then only about sixteen years of age, but was the +mother of two pretty children, a girl and a boy. They were all so +delighted to be allowed out for the first time in their lives. We began +by eating cucumbers and water-melons, followed by tea, coffee, and +English biscuits and cakes. These latter they much appreciated, asking +permission to carry away some for other members of the hareem to taste. +After refreshments had been partaken of they were very anxious to see +all over the house. As we went from room to room it was so funny to +hear their remarks. The bedroom seemed to take their fancy most of all, +as they could not see why we needed a room specially for sleeping +in.</p> +<p>They were very charmed with our little harmonium, and listened with +great delight while I played and sang to them some of our old English +hymns translated into Arabic. One of the ladies trying to play could +not understand why it would not “speak” for her, and upon +my moving the pedals was overjoyed to find that she could “make +music.” Their delight at everything was just like that of little +children on finding a new toy. Their visit lasted about three hours, +and they went away promising to come again soon. This hareem is a most +exceptionally happy one. There is only one wife in it, the two elder +ladies being sisters-in-law to the bride, and unmarried. They all seem +to live together in peace and happiness. Unfortunately, this is only +the exception, which always goes to prove the rule, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb229" href="#pb229" name="pb229">229</a>]</span>that +hareems are not the abode of peace. How can there be peace when the +heart is full of jealousy and hatred? One such case comes to my mind. +There are two brothers living in one house, one of them being married. +After some years of married life had passed and they remained +childless, he took another wife, and the first one was thrown into +misery and despair. Shortly after this we were awakened one night by +hearing most fearful shrieks and yells coming from this house. The +following day we heard that the two wives had been quarrelling and +fighting, as usual, till at last the husband took the first wife and +turned her forcibly out of doors. Fortunately, her mother’s house +was near by, to which she went, and where she remains to this day.</p> +<p>It has been said, and unfortunately too often truly said, that love +has no part in the life of a Moslem woman; and yet it is also true that +they are, as a rule, a most loving and lovable set of people. It is +because they have so little love and kindness in their own lives that, +when it does come to them, their hearts are ready to overflow in +response.</p> +<p>Perhaps the Arab women are slow to give their love and trust, but +when once given it is sure and lasting. Often these women have said to +me, “Why do you love us, Khatoun?” They cannot understand +that any one should care for them. Such an idea is outside the range of +their experience altogether. One of the first sentences I learnt in the +Arabic language was, “Ana ahubkum” (I love you all), and +this is one of the most useful and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb230" +href="#pb230" name="pb230">230</a>]</span>necessary phrases to be +learnt. Love is the magic key which opens a way to the hearts of the +Moslem women, and which brings forth much fruit in return. It is sad to +think that these women, who are endowed with such great possibilities +of loving, should be condemned to live their lives, aye, and die too, +without one spark of love to brighten and cheer them through the weary +years of their lives. Sad, too, that their favoured sisters of England +should be content that these things should remain so. Who is to tell +them of love if we do not? They know nothing of the God of Love, who +looks in pity and compassion on their stricken lives. They only know of +a God who is inexorably hard and unfeeling, who holds the destiny of +each life in His hand, and against whom it is no use repining, for +“What is written is written.”</p> +<p>Mohammed says in the Koran, “The noblest of you in the sight +of God is he who most doth fear Him.”</p> +<p>Truly has it been said that the God of the Mohammedans is an +Oriental despot. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb231" href="#pb231" +name="pb231">231</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch2.6" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter VI</h2> +<h2 class="main">Moslem Family Life</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">No home life—Women down-trodden—Evils of +divorce—Naseeb—The will of God—Truth and +falsehood—Honesty prevalent—A thief caught—Swearing +and anti-swearing—Fighting, hair-tearing, and +biting—Hammams, the Ladies’ Club.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<p class="first">“The heart of a woman is given to +folly.”</p> +<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Arabic Proverb.</span></p> +<p>“May Allah never bless womankind.”</p> +<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Quotation from Moslem +Author.</span></p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“The Very God! think, Abib, dost thou think?</p> +<p class="line">So, the All-Great, were the All-Loving too—</p> +<p class="line">So, through the Thunder comes a human voice</p> +<p class="line">Saying, ‘Oh, heart I made, a heart beats +here!</p> +<p class="line">Face, my hands fashioned, see it in myself!</p> +<p class="line">Thou hast no power nor mayst conceive of mine,</p> +<p class="line">But love I gave Thee, with Myself to love,</p> +<p class="line">And Thou must love me, who have died for +thee.’”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">R. Browning.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">There is no “home life,” such as we +understand the term, in Mosul. The word “beit” (house) is +the only one in the Arabic language used for describing a home. It +would indeed be mockery to call such by the sacred name so dear to the +hearts of English people.</p> +<p>In a book lately published in Cairo the author, a well-known and +clever Moslem writer, says: “Man is the absolute master and woman +the slave. She is the object of his sensual pleasures, a toy as it were +with which he plays whenever and however he pleases. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb232" href="#pb232" name= +"pb232">232</a>]</span>Knowledge is his, ignorance is hers. The +firmament and the light are his, darkness and the dungeon are hers. His +is to command, hers is blindly to obey. His is everything that is, and +she is an insignificant part of that everything.” This being the +sentiment of every Moslem man, is it any wonder that there is no +happiness or mutual regard in the family life? The men look upon the +women, and treat them, as little better than brutes; then when they +become so, turn and revile them. They keep their heels firmly planted +on women’s necks and then dare them to rise. A man may be as vile +as he likes himself, but the moment he suspects one of his hareem of +misconduct there is nothing but death, or mutilation which is worse +than death, for the offender.</p> +<p>A woman once came to the hospital who always insisted on keeping her +face entirely covered with the exception of the eyes; I soon found that +the reason of this was because her nose and lips were missing. These +members had been cut off in a rage by an infuriated son-in-law, who +declared that this woman had intrigued with his wife in allowing +another man to enter the hareem in his absence. This is a +husband’s ordinary method of wreaking revenge on any of his women +folk whom he suspects of being false to him. This, or death.</p> +<p>The facility with which a man is able to divorce his wife is a great +source of trouble to the women. They never feel secure in the hearts of +their husbands, knowing that at any moment he may tire of them and send +them adrift.</p> +<p>When a woman is divorced she returns as a rule to her mother’s +house; but should she have no relation <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb233" href="#pb233" name="pb233">233</a>]</span>at hand to whom she +can appeal for protection, her condition is deplorably sad.</p> +<p>A man may divorce his wife in a fit of anger and receive her back +the next day if he so desire; this may occur twice, but if he +pronounces the fatal words “I divorce thee” three times the +divorced wife may not be taken back till she has been married to +another man for a time and <i>he</i> also has divorced her; <i>then</i> +her former husband may marry her again if he wishes. This is one of the +good (?) laws of Mohammed the Prophet, and needs no comment.</p> +<p>When a woman is divorced the husband can claim the children if he +desires; if not, the wife is allowed to retain them. Should she marry +again the poor children are often left to look after themselves as best +they can. As a rule the new husband does not wish to bear the expense +of the children belonging to his wife’s former husband. If, +however, he should consent, and the two families are brought up +together, the result is generally not conducive to peace of mind. One +of our servants in Mosul had a little boy five years of age; having +divorced the boy’s mother, he looked about for another wife, and +finally selected one who had already been divorced and was the mother +of a boy four years old. The two boys now live together, and are a +fruitful source of friction between husband and wife. A short time ago +the mother came to our compound early in the morning looking +dishevelled and angry, saying that her husband had turned her out of +the house at midnight, refusing to admit her again. On inquiring into +the matter we found that the root of the quarrel lay in the fact that +the man was jealous of his wife’s <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb234" href="#pb234" name="pb234">234</a>]</span>treatment of her own +boy, declaring that he had only married her to look after <i>his</i> +boy. He divorced her; but acting on our suggestion forgave, and +reinstated her in his hareem.</p> +<p>A short time ago a woman came to me in great distress with her tale +of sorrow. I had known her for some months, and loved her very much. +She was the mother of two fine boys and a girl. When the girl was about +eighteen months old the mother became very ill. The doctor attended her +for some days, but finally gave up all hope of her recovery. As a last +resource, however, some stringent means were used which, with +God’s blessing, proved successful, and the woman began to +recover. So near death had she been, that the neighbours came to the +house inquiring what time the funeral would take place! The husband, a +“mullah” (priest), never came near her the whole time of +her illness, and the first news the poor woman heard on her recovery +was that he intended taking another wife, doubtless thinking that, +after such a severe illness, she would not be of much use to him for +some long time.</p> +<p>As soon as she could walk she came to tell me her trouble, and to +ask me what I should advise her to do. I told her that, if I were in +her place, I should leave the man altogether. This, she said, she could +not do, as it would mean separation from her children. Finally, she +concluded that there was nothing else to do but to go back to her +husband and submit to his will. This she did, and I saw her there +before we left; but such a different face greeted me to the sweet one +of old. Misery, discontent, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb235" href= +"#pb235" name="pb235">235</a>]</span>and anger were depicted there +instead of content and happiness. Up to the time of her illness she had +been in the habit of frequently coming to see me: now her husband +forbade her to do so any more. The week before we left, however, she +turned up again with a bad abscess on her leg, for which she gave +continual praise to God, saying repeatedly, +“Alhamd’llillah. God sent me this bad leg in order that I +may come to you”—her husband not objecting to her coming to +the hospital to be treated, but only when she came to the house without +any apparent reason.</p> +<p>A Moslem woman has very little hope of gaining Paradise. Old +pictures by Mohammedan artists always represent hell as being full of +women. Their hope of gaining Paradise rests a great deal on the will of +their husbands. Some holy men say, “I don’t want my wives +in heaven. I prefer those provided by God for all good Moslems from +amongst the angels.” Yet, if you question the women about their +hope for the future life, they all fervently express the belief that, +eventually, they will have a place in Paradise afforded them.</p> +<p>Poor, blind, misguided Moslem women of Mosul and other Mohammedan +lands! How my heart aches for them! Will no one heed the cry of anguish +and despair which goes up from their midst? As we think of their lives +our cry can only be, “How long, O Lord, how long will these +things be?”</p> +<p>Women are great believers in the doctrine of Naseeb or fatalism. To +everything that comes to them they bow their heads in submission and +say, “Naseeb” (fate). <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb236" +href="#pb236" name="pb236">236</a>]</span></p> +<p>This doctrine often leads to great neglect of children and invalids, +the women excusing themselves by saying, “Maktoob” (It is +written). It often rouses our indignation to hear this oft-quoted word +misapplied as an excuse for wrongdoing or selfish desires.</p> +<p>For instance, parents will enter into negotiations for the marriage +of their daughter with a man known to be an evil liver; then, when the +girl is suffering, maybe, for their sins, say piously, +“Naseeb—Min Allah” (from God). “Min +Allah” indeed! “Min Shaitan” (from Satan) would be +more correct!</p> +<p>Then, again, it is somewhat annoying to be told it is “the +will of God” that your horse should develop a cough, because the +groom neglected to cover him when standing in the rain; or, when your +best china tea-set is smashed, you would rather not be told it is +“Naseeb”!</p> +<p>Albeit this is an annoying doctrine to the European at times, yet it +certainly helps the Eastern woman to bear her troubles and trials, and +it is good for her to have this at command, for she has nothing else to +aid her. To sorrow, loss, bereavement, and all the ills that human +nature is subject to, the Moslem answers always “Naseeb,” +or, “It is the will of God.” Should their children die, or +the locusts destroy the crop, it is “Naseeb.” Is the +weather hot or cold, dry or moist, the remark is always the same, +“Naseeb.” If the river water is filthy and they choose to +drink it, thus contracting typhoid or one of the hundred other ills +consequent on drinking such water, they have only to assure themselves +that it is “Naseeb,” and there remains nothing more to be +said or done. It is easier to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb237" +href="#pb237" name="pb237">237</a>]</span>say “Naseeb” than +to take the trouble to filter or boil the water for drinking.</p> +<p>In a thousand ways this belief in fatalism is convenient to the lazy +or careless ones, a help to the over-burdened and weary, who know no +other succour or helper in time of need or sorrow, while it is, in some +cases, a blasphemous libel on God, blaming Him for what is really a sin +wilfully indulged in.</p> +<p>As in Persia, so in Mosul, truth plays little part in the characters +of some of the people. They have not yet learnt to value God’s +gift as expressed by the poet Browning—</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“God’s gift was that man should conceive of +Truth</p> +<p class="line xd20e2463">And yearn to gain it.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first">It is strange how even the most enlightened find it +difficult to speak the truth always, and correspondingly easy to tell +an untruth. A boy was once found out in a fault (quite a trivial one), +but, when questioned, he absolutely denied all knowledge of it, until +he was confronted by one who had been an eye-witness of the whole +scene. Then only did he confess, adding, “I said with <i>my +lips</i> I did not do it, but in <i>my heart</i> I confessed.” +What can be said to people whose mind is capable of evolving such +ideas? We often had to complain of dishonesty amongst the hospital +women servants, especially of the cook for petty thefts, such as eating +the patients’ food, thus causing them to go on short commons, +unless I was there to see that each one had his or her proper quantity. +One day I was crossing the compound before superintending the +distribution of the evening meal to the in-patients, when, as I +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb238" href="#pb238" name= +"pb238">238</a>]</span>approached the kitchen, I distinctly saw the +cook helping herself most liberally to the food out of the pot. On +remonstrating with her, she indignantly denied that she had ever tasted +a morsel, until I made her open her mouth and reveal to the amused +onlookers proof positive of her lies. Even then she was not ashamed, +but only laughed at the idea of the “khatoun” finding her +out.</p> +<p>A woman will bring a child to the dispensary and swear that it is +her child, all the time knowing that the real mother is waiting +outside, too ashamed to be seen coming to the poor people’s +dispensary, but not wishing to pay the usual doctor’s fee. Or +some lady from a high-class hareem will dress in her servant’s +clothes and come to the dispensary, posing as a poor woman who cannot +afford a piastre (2d.) for her medicine!</p> +<p>You get so tired of always hearing lies that you begin to feel it is +no use to question people at all. I do not wish to imply that there is +no truth to be found in Mosul; but it certainly is a rare and, when +found, precious virtue. It is a sad fact, too, that the natives do not +trust or believe each other, knowing that, given the opportunity, a +brother will cheat a brother or a son his father. Every one is +suspicious of his neighbour. On the whole the people are honest, at +least with the exception of the many trifling pilferings always to be +expected amongst the servants.</p> +<p>Some of them are rather fond of “eating money” entrusted +to their care. We had two or three servants who were good at this. They +would come to me every day with their accounts, receive payment for +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb239" href="#pb239" name= +"pb239">239</a>]</span>same, but instead of handing over the money to +the shopkeeper would calmly appropriate it for themselves, till one day +the baker or butcher leaves a message at the door politely asking to be +paid for past favours. Then the culprit is sent for, and acknowledges +having “eaten the money.”</p> +<p>Another servant once tried to steal some dolls from a box lately +received from England for distribution amongst the in-patients of the +hospital. He had helped me unpack the box and carry the contents to the +storeroom, pending the arrival of Christmas Day. A few days after I was +passing this room, and hearing a rustling inside looked to see what it +was, but seeing the door still locked thought I must have imagined the +noise. But just as I was passing on the rustling became more distinct, +and I went nearer to examine more closely the door, and found that, +while the lock was still intact, the door had been lifted bodily off +its hinges and then carefully replaced!</p> +<p>Calling my husband, we entered the room and found a poor frightened +man trying to hide himself under the pile of paper and sacking which +had been removed from the box. He was absolutely shaking with fear, +thinking that he would be bastinadoed (beaten on the feet with sticks) +or imprisoned. He declared at first that he had come for some string, +which he had noticed on a shelf, to mend my saddle; but finally +confessed that the dolls had been the object of his visit. About six +small ones were found in his pockets; he had wanted them for his +children. We told him that if he had only asked he should have had one +given him. I shall never forget his <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb240" href="#pb240" name="pb240">240</a>]</span>astonishment when my +husband told him to choose the one he liked best and take it to his +little girl. He wept for joy and gratitude.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e3049width" id="p240"><img src="images/p240.jpg" +alt="Bread-Making" width="720" height="478"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Bread-Making</span></p> +<p class="first">Baking-day is one to be dreaded. The process begins +soon after midnight, when the woman arrives to prepare the flour and +set the dough. Every woman is pressed into service: one to make the +dough into little cakes, another to give it a preliminary roll. She +then passes it on to her neighbour to be rolled still thinner, until +finally the loaf is as thin as a wafer. It is then placed in the oven +on a cushion such as is seen in the woman’s hand.</p> +</div> +<p>Swearing is very largely indulged in by men and women alike; it +seems to come as naturally to them as swimming to a duck. Originally +the words “wallah,” “yallah,” +“billah,” were used as swear expressions; but are now +looked upon more as ejaculations equivalent to our “good +gracious!” “goodness!” &c.; the real swear words +being “wallahi,” “billahi,” &c. Some of the +women cannot keep the expression <i>wallah</i> out of their +conversation, though I try hard to persuade them to do so. For +instance, a visitor comes; you remark to her on the extreme heat. +“Wallah,” comes the answer, “it is hot!” Or you +inquire after some member of her family. “Wallah, she is very +ill,” is the reply.</p> +<p>I was visiting one day in a Moslem house, and the old mother-in-law +said to me, “What has happened to X.?” mentioning her +daughter-in-law; “she never swears now!” I was indeed +thankful for this unexpected tribute to that woman’s efforts. We +started an anti-swearing society amongst a few of the women; it was +quite funny to see how they endeavoured to keep back the old familiar +words which had been on their lips since childhood.</p> +<p>One little boy joined with the women, and he found it hardest of +all; but when we left he was still persevering. He learnt the Ten +Commandments by heart, so whenever I heard him use a swear word I made +him repeat the third commandment.</p> +<p>The women are terribly fond of couching their denials in the form of +oaths, as “May my hand be <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb241" +href="#pb241" name="pb241">241</a>]</span>broken,” “May I +become blind,” “May my interior become dried up if I did +such and such a thing!” It makes me shiver sometimes to hear them +swearing to a lie in this way; and I often tell them that if God only +took them at their word, they would be stricken blind many times +over.</p> +<p>It is not an unknown thing for women to resort occasionally to +fighting as a pastime, but I am thankful to say I have not seen much of +it. A woman came to the Dispensary once with a fearful-looking hand: +the thumb was about six times its normal size and had become +gangrenous. My husband said the only possible cure was amputation; to +this the woman would not consent. She said that a short time before she +had been fighting with another woman, who had bitten her thumb in her +fury. I asked this woman what she had done to her opponent. +“Oh,” she said, “I only pulled out her +hair!”</p> +<p>Another woman once brought me quite a handful of hair to show, which +she declared her husband had just pulled out of her head in his anger; +while he at the same time exhibited several ugly wounds on his hand +caused by his wife’s teeth! The man vowed he would divorce her, +refusing to listen to any suggestions as to forgiveness, saying, +“What would my neighbours say of me if I kept for my wife a woman +who would do that?” pointing to the bites on his hand. However, +in the end he did consent to take her back, being on the whole an +amicably disposed man. Can we wonder that these things should happen +when neither the men nor the women have ever learnt to control their +passions? We have glanced at the lives of the Moslem women of Mosul. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb242" href="#pb242" name= +"pb242">242</a>]</span>Can we say that they lead an ennobling, +beautiful life? Are the home influences such as to foster a happy, +peaceful spirit? On the contrary, we have seen that a woman deserves +our pity and sympathy for all the sorrow she has to endure.</p> +<p>Have we not seen that at birth she is unwelcome, as a child +uncared-for and untaught, as a young woman imprisoned behind the veil, +as a wife unloved, as a mother unhonoured; and when her weary life +draws to a close she knows that she will go to her grave unmourned. +Such in brief outline is the life of a Moslem woman.</p> +<p>A woman’s one place of recreation is the hammam. It is indeed +a kind of ladies’ club; here she throws away for the time being +all her home worries and troubles, enjoying thoroughly her few hours of +liberty. As a rule the bath takes at least two hours, and often half a +day, if the woman has no special demands on her time. She generally +goes in the morning, taking with her a complete change of raiment, a +mat to sit upon in the cooling chamber, and plenty of towels, also some +food to be partaken of after the exertions of the bath are over. I once +went to one of these hammams, but the heat was so intense that I could +only stand it for a few minutes. I often wonder how ever the women can +exist in such great heat for so long; I suppose it is because they are +used to it. Many illnesses date from a visit to the hammam; but still +they would not give it up for any consideration, thinking it quite +impossible to take a bath in the house. Certainly the Turkish bath is +much cleaner than the Persian one. In the latter a large tank is used, +and as it costs a good deal to warm up, the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb243" href="#pb243" name= +"pb243">243</a>]</span>water is not changed very often. In the Turkish +hammam each person has a tap for herself, from which flows presumably +clean water. As a matter of fact sometimes this water has already been +used, but only in the cheaper hammams. The most expensive baths have +river water brought up for the purpose; in the others well water is +used, and as this is brackish and very hard it is impossible to use +soap, for it will not lather; therefore a special kind of earth is +used, which is said to be very good for washing the hair with.</p> +<p>When Judy, our woman servant, returns from the bath, she always +comes and gives me a kiss, this being their custom, and we exchange the +salutations usual upon any one returning from the hammam. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb244" href="#pb244" name="pb244">244</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch2.7" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter VII</h2> +<h2 class="main">Customs of Mosul</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Wedding ceremonies—Great expense to +parents—Method of procedure—Funeral customs—Customs +at birth—Some other customs.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“The bridegroom’s doors are open wide,</p> +<p class="line">And I am next of kin;</p> +<p class="line">The guests are met, the feast is set;</p> +<p class="line">May’st hear the merry din.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">S. T. Coleridge.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">We have seen that a wedding is a very expensive matter +in Mosul, especially to parents who possess three or four daughters; +for unless the necessary gold, jewellery, and clothing are forthcoming +as a dowry, the marriage will never take place. For this reason a man +with a number of daughters will begin saving for their marriage portion +and expenses while the girl is yet a baby, and the mothers will often +commence gathering together clothing even before the child is +betrothed, so that they may be better prepared for the expensive event +when it does take place.</p> +<p>Then, too, not only is there the outlay for the dowry and clothing, +but also for the feasting of some hundreds, it maybe, of guests during +the seven days following the marriage. A man of very fair means in +Mosul once told me that the marriage of his daughters cost him at least +£200 each, and as he had seven daughters the sum total required +was not small. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb245" href="#pb245" name= +"pb245">245</a>]</span>If this man with a good income found it hard +work to produce the necessary cash, how much harder is it for those who +have no settled income, or whose earnings are small. For instance, a +native Christian whom we respected and liked very much had two +daughters; both were betrothed and ready to be married. He was earning +about £3 a month, and had a wife and six children to +support—how could he provide all the necessary gold and other +ornaments for his girls? And yet, if he did not, in all probability his +daughters would never be married. There was only one way out of the +difficulty, and that was to borrow at high interest, crippling himself +for many years to come, perhaps for the rest of his life. Instances +might be multiplied, but I think enough has been said to show that +girls are expensive luxuries in Mosul as regards their weddings! Now as +to the “preparations” for the great and eventful day.</p> +<p>When a man makes up his mind to be married, or his parents decide in +<i>their</i> minds that it is high time their son should take to +himself a wife, many are the consultations which take place, and great +is the importance of the women folk concerned. They are never so happy +as when arranging for a marriage, loving the mystery and secrecy of it; +for it would never do for a fond mother to offer the hand of her dear +son in marriage to the mother of a possible bride and be refused. The +shame and ignominy would be too great; so the mother and other female +relations of the would-be bridegroom have to go very carefully to work +in selecting the girl and in making any proposal for marriage. Before +the actual “asking” is done, the way has to be prepared by +very careful <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb246" href="#pb246" name= +"pb246">246</a>]</span>hints and indirect inquiries as to the +girl’s health, accomplishments, and dowry. If all proves +satisfactory, then a formal proposal is made. The matter having gone so +far, a refusal is very unusual, and, if given, is considered a great +insult. I heard of one young man who threatened to murder all the +relations of a girl for whom he had made proposals of marriage upon her +parents refusing to accept his offer.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e3119width" id="p246"><img src="images/p246.jpg" +alt="A Mosul Bride" width="476" height="720"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Mosul Bride</span></p> +<p class="first">The girl in the centre of the picture is a Christian +bride decked out in her wedding costume. The gold coins, necklaces, and +girdle are her dowry.</p> +</div> +<p>I have often been asked by Moslem women to suggest some girl as a +suitable bride either for their brother or son. On mentioning some +girls whom I knew, their answers were something as follows: “Oh, +but she has a white patch on her eye,” or “She is too +poor,” or “She has a bad temper,” or “She is +not pretty.” Their idea of beauty is that of a white, pasty, fat +face, without a vestige of colour, except that which art applies! Of +course, the man never sees the girl till the day of betrothal, and in +the case of Moslems not till the actual marriage takes place. The old +custom amongst the Christians of marrying a girl against her will is +still extant in some villages. Sometimes it happens that a girl +persists in her dislike to marry, even till the priest has arrived to +tie the knot: in this case the father would bind the girl’s arms +and legs till the marriage ceremony was completed, when she was +released, it being useless then for further resistance on her part. +This is done even now in some villages near Mosul when the girl proves +obstinate. As a rule, though, they accept their fate as +“Naseeb,” knowing it is little or no use to struggle +against custom. How often my heart aches for some poor child who is +bound to a man old enough to be her grandfather <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb247" href="#pb247" name="pb247">247</a>]</span>or +great-grandfather sometimes. Alas, too often old in sin as well as +years!</p> +<p>When the day of the marriage approaches, invitations are sent out to +all friends and relations for the specified days of feasting. First +comes the day for taking the bride to the bath—this is considered +a great function; then follows a week of excitement, dancing, singing, +feasting, all forming part of the great event. All thoroughly enjoy +themselves, even those who have to work the hardest in preparing the +food. The guests are expected to remain from morning till sunset. Three +meals are provided each day, the morning one consisting of bread, +cream, butter, fruit, &c.; the midday meal is a substantial one of +meat, cooked in various ways, rice, chicken, and vegetables according +to the season. The evening meal is also a very heavy one, causing the +guests to depart perfectly satisfied both with their dinner and +themselves.</p> +<p>During the whole of the week the poor bride has to sit in the +reception room on a cushion specially prepared for brides, and takes no +part in the surrounding gaieties. Each day she appears in a fresh silk +dress, and is often covered with golden jewellery. She is not supposed +to speak till spoken to, and the guests do not take much notice of her +beyond the usual kiss of salutation. At meal times she is +“fed” by her relations, a bride being supposed to be too +overcome to help herself or eat without assistance.</p> +<p>After the days of feasting are over, the bride takes her place in +the house as “servant” to her mother-in-law. In a Moslem +house the youngest <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb248" href="#pb248" +name="pb248">248</a>]</span>and latest bride always becomes the servant +of all for the first year of married life, or till another and younger +one is brought to the home. Much depends on the mother-in-law’s +character as to the happiness or otherwise of the inmates of the +hareem. If they wish, they can make the lives of the young wives +perfectly miserable, or the reverse.</p> +<p>The same custom of feasting for a certain number of days takes place +too in connection with funerals. The guests who come to mourn sit in +solemn silence all day long; their mourning does not lessen their +appetite, however, for they thoroughly enjoy their “feast” +of sorrow. After a death, the “wailers” are brought in. I +went once to a Christian house of mourning to see these wailing women. +It was a ghastly sight. The professional wailers sat on the ground in +the centre of the relations and guests, and worked themselves and +others into such a frenzy that I thought some would have fainted from +exhaustion; slapping their knees, tearing their hair and clothes, till +they resembled maniacs more than women.</p> +<p>A short time ago a very sad and sudden death took place in Mosul in +a house very close to us. We were awakened one night, while sleeping on +the roof, by hearing the terrible wailing sounds coming from our +neighbour’s house. At the same time a messenger arrived in great +haste, asking my husband to go at once to see the patient, as his +relatives were not sure if he was dead or only in a fit. He had been +out during the night to some Moslem religious function, and died quite +suddenly on his return.</p> +<p>The wailing went on in the hareem for seven days, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb249" href="#pb249" name="pb249">249</a>]</span>and +was terrible to hear. The sound of the weird wailing of some hundred +women is perfectly indescribable, always ending up with a piercing +shriek which seems to rend the air and freeze one’s blood.</p> +<p>Being friends and neighbours, I paid daily visits to the mourners +during that week, but did not sit amongst the guests, preferring to +spend the time with the sisters of the deceased in a quiet room above +the din and uproar of the courtyard. The wailing has such a hopeless +sound, as of a lost soul in anguish. One longed for them to know of +Jesus the Living One, and of the time when partings shall be no +more.</p> +<p>After death has visited a family, the whole house in which the +departed one lived is not swept for three days: this is because they +believe that the angel of death is still hovering near, and they fear +lest, while they are sweeping, others of the household may be swept +from the house by the angel. So the house becomes very dirty, the +carpets covered with cigarette ash and ends, but nothing can be touched +till the third day is safely passed.</p> +<p>Amongst the Christians it is also the custom after the death of a +relative, not to go to the hammam (bath) for six months, and for the +men to go unshaven for at least six weeks. The women are very +particular about not going to the hammam while mourning, as I found to +my sorrow. Our woman servant Judy lost her father just before she +entered our service, and she allowed a whole year to elapse before she +could be prevailed upon to go to the bath. They are very particular, +too, about wearing “deep” <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb250" href="#pb250" name="pb250">250</a>]</span>clothing—that +is, dresses of some dark colour, not necessarily black.</p> +<p>I am sure that the custom of burying a few hours after death is +often the cause of many people being buried alive. I have often been +regaled by an old woman with horrible stories of how some friends of +hers have just escaped being buried alive. For those who providentially +escape being entombed alive one is thankful; but what of the many who +most certainly are condemned to this awful fate. It is too terrible to +contemplate. In a land where no medical certificates are required, and +where the body is carried to the cemetery almost before it is cold, how +can it be otherwise?</p> +<p>But to proceed to other and more pleasing customs—let us pass +from death to life. When a child is born in Mosul, whether Moslem or +Christian, the first idea of the parents is to protect the child from +the baneful influence of the Evil Eye. The usual custom is to thread a +gall, and suspend it round the neck of the infant. Moslems enclose a +portion of the Koran in a little bag, and fasten that round the arm of +the child or sew it on to the cap. The custom of wearing charms to +avert the Evil Eye is very prevalent, and deeply rooted in the minds of +the Mosul people.</p> +<p>The kissing of hands is a very pretty custom. Children are all +taught to do this even before they can speak or walk. Servants are +always very anxious to kiss your hands after they have done something +especially annoying or irritating. They make a grab for your hand, and +kiss it before you realise what they are doing. In this way they +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb251" href="#pb251" name= +"pb251">251</a>]</span>secure your forgiveness before the fault is +confessed. I am getting more wary now, and prefer to hear first what +they have done before letting them kiss my hand. It is also a sign of +gratitude. Upon receiving any backsheesh or present, the recipient is +always ready to kiss your hand. Sometimes, when riding through the +city, I have had my hand grasped and kissed by some passer-by who has +been an in-patient in the hospital, and wished to show his gratitude in +this way. It requires a great deal of gratitude or love for a man to +kiss a <i>woman’s</i> hand, so, when by chance it does occur, I +feel very much honoured indeed.</p> +<p>There is one custom which is often the cause of a great deal of +heartburning, even as it was in the days of Haman and Mordecai. It is +usual for a host or hostess to rise from their seat upon the arrival of +each guest—that is, if they desire to do honour to that person. +As a rule this custom is most carefully adhered to, but it lends itself +admirably to any one wishing to be rude to his guest or to shame him +before his friends. Fortunately, this is not often the case, but when +it does happen one feels very uncomfortable. There is one dear old lady +in Mosul, who thinks it beneath her dignity to rise to a Feringhi. But, +perhaps, it is excusable for her as she is a Hadji—that is, one +who has made the pilgrimage to Mecca, and, consequently, is treated as +an exalted being by all her friends and relations.</p> +<p>A rather quaint and pleasing custom in Mosul is that of sending +trays containing a dinner all ready cooked and dished to new-comers, or +to those <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb252" href="#pb252" name= +"pb252">252</a>]</span>returning after a long period of absence. We did +not know of this custom when first we went to Mosul, so were very +surprised at sunset on our second day after arrival to see two or three +men coming into the compound carrying huge trays on their heads. They +explained that their master, a Moslem merchant, had sent this meal, +with many salaams and good wishes. It was a dinner large enough for +twenty people, so we gathered together all we could find on the +premises, assistants, catechist, and others, who had been kindly +helping us to settle down. Spreading some Persian carpets in the +courtyard, we sat down and thoroughly enjoyed our first Arab meal in +Mosul.</p> +<p>When any one is leaving the place or starting on a journey, it is +customary for the people to send in large trays containing sweetmeats, +cakes, and other eatables suitable for taking with you on the road. +When we were leaving Mosul, we received quite a large number of these +trays—so many, indeed, that at the end of our fourteen days of +desert we still had a good many of their contents remaining. Some of +these were made of almonds pounded and mixed with sugar; others were +made from puff pastry sandwiched with honey: these latter were +especially nice.</p> +<p>Distributing food to the poor as a mark of gratitude and +thankfulness is another of Mosul’s good customs. After recovering +from a dangerous illness, it is usual to make and distribute a large +quantity of bread, baked in a special way, and flavoured with caraway +seeds.</p> +<p>The birth of a son and heir is also celebrated <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb253" href="#pb253" name="pb253">253</a>]</span>by a +generous and lavish distribution of meat and bread. When starting on a +journey, too, it is usual to give away to the poor either money or +food. On every occasion of life which calls for gratitude to God, this +custom of presenting offerings to the poor is carried out. One dear +woman, a friend of mine, went even further than this. It was thought at +one time that we should be leaving Mosul for good, the Mission being +withdrawn. Providentially, this was over-ruled, and when the news +arrived from England that the Mission was to be kept on, great were the +rejoicings amongst the people. The woman mentioned above immediately +desired to show her thankfulness to God in a very special way, so spent +one whole day in making a large supply of small loaves of bread, not to +distribute to the poor, but to feed the hungry, starving <i>dogs</i> of +the streets. This by a Moslem woman was, indeed, a work of love, dogs +being looked upon as unclean beasts. Surely she “that loveth much +shall be forgiven much.”</p> +<p>Coffee-making and drinking is associated very much with life in +Mosul. It is the custom there to give every one who comes to the house +a cup of Arab coffee. This meant sometimes for us giving at least 200 +cups in a day. Not only those who come as social visitors receive the +coffee, but also all who come to the house on whatever pretext, whether +for meetings, classes, or what not. At feast times one servant is +always told off to do nothing else but prepare the coffee for the +guests. On each of the great feasts, such as Christmas and Easter, it +is the custom for every one to call, Moslems <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb254" href="#pb254" name="pb254">254</a>]</span>and +Christians alike. At Christmas the feast lasts for three days, and at +Easter a week, the whole of which time coffee must be ready to be +handed at once to every caller; also a tray of sweets, consisting of +Turkish delight, almond sugar, and other Mosul-made confections.</p> +<p>When a house is “mourning,” bitter coffee is given to +all callers for six months, and on the first day of each feast for a +whole year.</p> +<p>I do not think I have ever visited a Moslem house, however poor, +without receiving either a cup of coffee or some sweets. I often beg +them not to make preparations for me, but they always insist, as their +hospitable instincts are very strong. Indeed, more often than not, they +set before me not only coffee or sweets, but meat, fruit, and lebban +(sour milk).</p> +<p>A true Arab of the desert takes about an hour to make a cup of +coffee. First of all the coffee has to be roasted, then ground to +powder, and, lastly, boiled. The Arabs never sweeten their coffee, +sugar not being a commodity of the desert.</p> +<p>I once heard the recipe for making Arab or Turkish coffee. Perhaps +some readers may like to try their hand at making it.</p> +<p>First roast the coffee to a rich brown, neither too light nor too +dark, then grind it to a soft powder. Now comes the art of making good +coffee. Half-fill the pot with cold water; bring it to boiling point. +Throw in a handful of powdered coffee; allow it to boil; shake down and +bring it to the boil again. Repeat this process three times, and the +coffee is ready. Specially note: Never wash the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb255" href="#pb255" name="pb255">255</a>]</span>pot! +Needless to say, this last injunction I do not carry out, but the +servants quite believe in that part of the recipe. It is only with +great difficulty I can persuade them to wash out the coffee-pot +occasionally.</p> +<p>In summer, this reluctance on their part often leads to serious +complications. The kitchen, as may be supposed, is not a very cool +place during the hot season, consequently it suffers continually from a +plague of flies. Dead flies are often served up in puddings and other +dishes, to act presumably as an appetiser! Then eating requires a great +effort. The coffee-pot seems to serve as a trap for many of these +flies, attracted no doubt by the sugar, and there they find a coffee +grave. Suddenly a visitor is announced, and the message is conveyed to +the kitchen to “Send coffee at once.” The cook seizes the +pot, never looking to see how many victims are struggling in the dregs +at the bottom, adds a little freshly-ground coffee, boils it up, and +sends it in to the visitor served in dainty little cups. The visitor +takes one sip, and...! I will draw a veil over the sequel. A mouthful +of dead flies is not a very palatable drink. My feelings may be better +imagined than described.</p> +<p>Sometimes a guest does not approve of the way the coffee is made +(even when minus flies); if so, she is not shy, and does not hesitate +to hand it back with a grimace, saying to your servant: “What +horrid coffee! why do you not make better?” and often demands +another cup properly made.</p> +<p>A visit to the bread-makers may not be out of place here. It is the +custom amongst some of the people to bake bread once a month, +sufficient to last <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb256" href="#pb256" +name="pb256">256</a>]</span>that length of time. Baking-day is a day to +be dreaded. The process begins soon after midnight, when the woman +arrives to prepare the flour and “set” the dough for +rising. The whole of that day every woman on the premises is pressed +into service—one to make the dough into little cakes, another +gives it a preliminary roll, then hands it to her neighbour, who uses a +smaller roller, and finally hands it on to some one else to finish it +off. When completed, the bread is about as thin as note-paper and as +large round as a child’s wooden hoop. The bread is now ready to +be baked. The fuel used for heating the oven is chopped straw and +goats’ dung, which is burnt till the required heat is obtained; +then these large thin pieces of bread are plastered to the sides of the +oven, and removed as they are browned to an exact nicety. This bread is +very nice when fresh and crisp; when stale, it is generally soaked in +water before being brought to the table.</p> +<p>We do not make our bread in this way. I tried it once for the +hospital in-patients, but found it took far too much time. The daily +baking is much more suitable when from thirty to forty people have to +be fed daily. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb257" href="#pb257" name= +"pb257">257</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter VIII</h2> +<h2 class="main">Dreams and Visions</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Ezekiel’s vision by the river Chebar—Our +vision by the river Khabour—Rivers identical—“A wheel +within a wheel”—Babylonish emblem of divinity—Origin +of the cherubim—Dream of a woman suffering from +cataract—Effect of dream on her character—Watch and chain +recovered by means of a “faked” dream—Illustration of +the doctrine of Kismet or Naseeb—“Ghosts” in our +compound—Atmosphere of ghosts bad for fowls.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<p class="first">“O dreamer, dream thy dream, and dream it +true.</p> +<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Sir Lewis Morris.</span></p> +<p>“Did not Heaven speak to men in dreams of old?”</p> +<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Lord Tennyson.</span></p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line xd20e2463">”... The vision of my soul</p> +<p class="line">Has looked upon its Sun and turns no more</p> +<p class="line xd20e1108">To any lower light.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Sir Lewis Morris.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Dreams and visions have a great influence on the +Eastern mind. They believe most firmly that God often speaks by means +of these agencies, using them as a warning of impending danger, or as a +voice of instruction.</p> +<p>Ezekiel was no exception to this rule, for we read in the words of +his prophecy, “That the heavens were opened, and I saw visions of +God.” This vision was given to him as he stood by the river +Chebar in the land of the Chaldeans. The river Chebar is none other +than the Khabour, over which we have passed more than once in our +“journeyings oft.” When <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb258" href="#pb258" name="pb258">258</a>]</span>on our way back to +England we crossed this river, and as we sat near its banks, even as +Ezekiel did of old, we too were vouchsafed a “vision of +God.”</p> +<p>We had travelled through a weary stretch of waterless desert that +day, and were rejoicing in the fact that our camping-ground for the +night was by the banks of a river—the Chebar. Only those who have +journeyed for days through a parched-up desert land can tell the joy +with which a river is sighted. We experienced something of that joy on +the evening when we saw water for the first time for two or three days. +We pitched our camp as close to the river as possible, and, sitting at +our tent door, prepared to enjoy to the full the beauties before us. +Looking up I saw in front of me a glorious sight. I quickly called my +husband, and together we stood and watched this wonderful vision. The +sun was sinking as a ball of fire behind the river, when suddenly from +its centre there arose beautiful prismatic lights. These gradually +resolved themselves into the form of a huge wheel, each spoke of the +wheel being of a different colour, merging gradually and almost +imperceptibly into the next, as in the rainbow. Within this +“wheel” was another and smaller one, also composed of the +same prismatic hues. The outer circle of each wheel was formed by a +band of bright opaque light. On the top of these wheels was a visionary +form resembling the beginning of another wheel, but it was too +indistinct for me to say what definite shape it possessed. At either +side of these wheels was a large wing, as it were overshadowing the +wheels; these were also of a bright white. The whole formed a most +wonderful and never to be <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb259" href= +"#pb259" name="pb259">259</a>]</span>forgotten sight, and we felt +indeed that this was a vision of God.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e3253width" id="p259"><img src="images/p259.gif" +alt="A Wonderful Vision." width="394" height="321"></div> +<p>While in Mosul my husband had received a letter from a gentleman in +England, asking him to keep a look-out for any such phenomenon as this. +On reaching home it was interesting to find on good authority that the +sight we had seen on the banks of the Khabour was one of historical +interest. The form of the wheels is almost identical with the emblem +which the Babylonians adopted to represent Divinity. On the same +authority I learnt, too, that in all probability a vision similar to +this was the origin of the cherubims. It is believed by an expert on +the subject that the whole of the “vision” is caused by +atmospheric influences, the sun acting on the particles of frost in the +air, thus forming the prismatic colours. Be this as it may, the result +was truly marvellous, and we were thankful that we had been privileged +to see “the heavens open,” revealing this vision of God. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb260" href="#pb260" name= +"pb260">260</a>]</span></p> +<p>The whole spectacle could not have lasted more than five minutes, +but the sky retained its blaze of colour for about a quarter of an hour +after; then darkness covered the heavens.</p> +<p>The natives of Mosul are great believers in dreams, and accept them +as good or bad omens. A short time ago a Moslem woman came to the +Dispensary suffering from double cataract. She had been quite blind for +many years, and was very anxious for an operation, saying if only she +could have enough sight to sweep the compound she would be satisfied, +as then she could earn her livelihood. The doctor, after examining her +eyes, told the woman that he could not promise her a good result from +the operation, as her eyes were not healthy. However, as she was +absolutely blind, it was worth while to try, and perhaps she might see +sufficiently afterwards to find her way about. Accordingly she was +admitted to the Hospital to await her time for operation. She was a +very affectionate woman, and seemed to be gifted with great powers of +intuition. When I went to the door of the ward, even before I spoke, +she always called out, “There’s my khatoun!” +Sometimes I crept in quietly just to see if she would know I was +present; she almost invariably did, and sitting up in bed would listen +intently, and then say to one of the other patients, “Is not the +khatoun here?” Then when she felt my hand, she would grasp it and +say, “I knew it, I knew it; I <i>felt</i> here” (pointing +to her heart) “that my khatoun was in the room!” She was +such an excitable woman that my husband feared that she would do +something foolish either at the time of the operation or after. He +warned her that <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb261" href="#pb261" +name="pb261">261</a>]</span>if she did not keep quiet she might lose +her eye altogether; but as the fateful day approached she became more +and more nervous. One morning, however, she appeared quite calm, and +hastened to tell us the reason of her peace of mind. During the night +she had seen a vision which had quieted all her fears and made her +trustful and believing.</p> +<p>In her dream she seemed to be walking in the desert, where she met a +mullah, who immediately began to revile and curse her. While he was +thus engaged the woman saw a form coming towards her which she knew to +be that of our Lord (Jesus the Living One, as He is called in Arabic). +He began to speak gently to the woman, asking her why she was weeping; +she replied by telling our Lord that the mullah had been cursing her. +In her dream she then <i>saw</i> (although blind) that our Lord turned +to the mullah and rebuked him for cursing the woman. Then turning to +the wondering woman, He said, “Do not weep, my daughter, for the +English doctor is going to give you sight in a few days,” and +then He left her. She awoke firmly convinced that this was a special +revelation from God through Jesus our Lord to assure her that her +eyesight was to be restored. From that time she was perfectly calm and +quiet, and remained so the whole time she was in the hospital. The day +before the operation she was again warned that she might not see any +better after; but she smiled and said, “To-morrow I shall +see!” Her faith was rewarded, as the operation was successful, +and after two or three weeks she went out with very good vision in one +eye, and she is waiting for our return to have the other operated upon. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb262" href="#pb262" name= +"pb262">262</a>]</span></p> +<p>My husband was once travelling “chappa” (post) in Persia +from Yezd to Kerman, when one evening he found to his great sorrow that +he had lost his gold watch and chain. Both were very valuable to him on +account of their associations, so he was very sad at the thought of +losing them. The same night he met another Englishman who was returning +to Yezd. He told him of his loss, and asked him to make inquiries along +the road, offering a reward to any one who would bring back his watch +and chain. His friend promised to do all he could, and, calling his +servant, explained to him about the loss, and told him to keep a sharp +look-out for any news of the lost goods. This servant was a very smart +man. The next morning they met a camel caravan on the road to Kerman, +and the servant went up to the driver and said to him—</p> +<p>“Oh, my noble brother, may your kindness never grow less; my +sleep has been troubled last night by dreams of you.”</p> +<p>“<i lang="fa-latn">Estakfarullah!</i>” (God forbid), +says the camel-driver. “Why was my lord’s sleep disturbed +by dreams of me, who am not worthy?”</p> +<p>“Yes; I saw in my dream that you stooped and picked up +something.”</p> +<p>“Then your dream was wrong,” hastily interposed the +camel-driver, “for I have picked up nothing.”</p> +<p>“And lo! in my dream,” continued the wily servant, +“I saw that the thing which you picked up was worthless, only a +cheap thing which will bring you no gain.” The camel-driver here +looking sad, the servant continued: “But the owner of that +worthless thing is very anxious to find it, as although of <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb263" href="#pb263" name="pb263">263</a>]</span>no +value in money, yet he cherishes it as a thing he loves.”</p> +<p>“But I told you,” repeats the camel-driver, “that +I never picked up anything.”</p> +<p>“Then in my dream,” continues the servant, carefully +ignoring the reiterated denial of the camel-driver, “I saw you +glance at this useless object in your hand and then place it inside +your <i>aba</i>” (cloak).</p> +<p>“No, no,” cries the driver, “I never picked it +up.”</p> +<p>“So if you will let me show you where it is, I can relieve you +of this worthless object.”</p> +<p>After a little more parleying of this sort, the camel-driver +produces my husband’s watch and chain, and receives in return a +small backsheesh. The servant, highly delighted with himself and his +sagacity, smiled as he pockets in imagination the promised reward of +five <i>tomans</i> (£1). The camel-driver confessed afterwards +that he was so taken aback at the idea of his deeds being revealed in a +dream to this man that he would not have kept the watch at any +cost.</p> +<p>Needless to say the “dream” was only a faked one, +manufactured to work on the superstitious mind of the simple +camel-driver.</p> +<p>In Mosul the chief of the Seyyids once told the doctor a story +relating to a remarkable dream. It was as follows. Two men once called +on a mullah to question him regarding a matter which had been troubling +them. The cause of their dispute was this. On going to their work each +day these men passed a ladder leaning against a wall. One of the two +always avoided going under lest it should fall and kill him; while the +other said, “No, I will not run from danger, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb264" href="#pb264" name="pb264">264</a>]</span>for +whatever Allah has decreed must be. If it is written that I am to be +killed by the ladder, I shall be.” So the two friends, after +having spent much time in arguing this knotty question, decided to lay +the matter before a mullah and leave the decision to him. The mullah +listened to them both, but told them that such a serious question +needed much thought. He appointed a day for them to return and hear his +verdict. After their departure the mullah fell into a sleep, and in his +sleep he dreamed. In the dream he beheld a beautiful boy, the son of a +king whom his soul loved exceedingly; then later he met a stranger, who +told him that he (the mullah) was to cause the death of the boy he +loved so much. The mullah, filled with indignation, repudiated the +idea, saying that he loved the boy too much to do him any harm. +“Nevertheless,” said the stranger, “it must be, for +Allah has decreed that the boy is to meet his death through you, and +what is written is written.” The old mullah returned to his house +troubled and sad at heart, but determined that he would do nothing that +could in any way bring disaster to the boy. Still dreaming, the mullah +received a summons to visit the young prince. Remembering the words of +the stranger, he took with him nothing that could in any way injure the +boy, contenting himself by taking with him one gift only—an +apple. The boy received the mullah in his beautiful island home, and +the two enjoyed some blissful hours of converse together.</p> +<p>Finally, ere saying farewell, the old man with extended hands +presented the apple to the boy, who gladly accepted it, and proposed +eating it at once. The mullah, taking a penknife from his inner pocket, +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb265" href="#pb265" name= +"pb265">265</a>]</span>peeled the apple, and returned it on the point +of the knife to the young prince, who, boylike, grasped it eagerly. In +taking the apple the point of the knife pricked the finger of the lad, +with the result that blood poisoning set in, and in a short time the +beautiful boy lay dead. The mullah in his sorrow wept aloud, and as he +wept he awoke. With humble heart and head bowed in submission, he gave +glory to Allah.</p> +<p>On the day appointed the two men returned to hear the verdict of the +wise mullah. He received them kindly, but sorrowfully, assuring them +that it made not the slightest difference whether they walked under the +ladder or not.</p> +<p>“For,” said the old man, “if it is written that +you are to be killed by a ladder falling upon you, it must be so, you +cannot escape. What Allah has written must be fulfilled. His designs +cannot be frustrated.”</p> +<p>This doctrine, taught to the old mullah by means of his dream, is +very prominent in the minds of all Moslems to-day.</p> +<p>When in Persia we had an Indian servant who was a Mohammedan. He +told us that three times on successive nights our Lord had appeared to +him in a dream, in the form of an old man with a long white beard. So +struck was he with the persistency of the dream, that he went to an +English clergyman, asking to be taught the Christian religion.</p> +<p>The women in Mosul have often told me of wonderful things which they +declared were going to happen to me, as had been revealed to them in +dreams. Even now I receive letters from some of <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb266" href="#pb266" name= +"pb266">266</a>]</span>these women in which they say, “We see you +every night in our dreams.”</p> +<p>The first women in-patients in our so-called hospital in Mosul had +to be content with a kind of outhouse for their ward. The only place we +could find for them which would be hareem was a large room which we +used as a wood-house. This my husband had whitewashed and thoroughly +cleansed and disinfected. The first unfortunate woman to be put in this +ward (?) was a very quiet, gentle Moslem woman, who came for an +operation. Her mother came with her to look after her, and these two +were alone in their none too comfortable quarters.</p> +<p>Two or three days after the operation, these women declared that in +the night a huge form of dragon-like appearance rose from the ground at +their side!</p> +<p>Some weeks later this ward was occupied by a little Jewish girl who +had been terribly burnt, her mother and grandmother looking after her. +There were also two or three other women in the ward. One morning very +early, word was brought to us that all the inmates of that room had +been terribly frightened in the night. On going out to see what had +happened, we found them all lying in the passage, having carried their +bedding out of the room. They were looking very unhappy and frightened, +and requested to be allowed to leave the hospital at once, saying they +would not pass another night in that awful place. Then they all began +to recount their experiences of the night at the same time, so it was +with great difficulty we could find out what really had happened. It +seems that soon after midnight <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb267" +href="#pb267" name="pb267">267</a>]</span>they were talking to one +another, when suddenly they saw two soldiers sitting on the edge of +their bedsteads. Terribly alarmed, they asked the men however they came +to be there—did they not know it was “hareem”? At +first the soldiers remained silent, but afterwards told the women that +they had come from a village about twelve miles off. That they had been +told in a dream to come to the <i lang="fa-latn">beit hakeem +Engelisi</i> (house of the English doctor). In obedience to this +command they had come. Then, as suddenly as they had arrived, they +disappeared. The women, of course, were all fearfully alarmed, some +believing that they were real soldiers, others that they were genii in +the form of soldiers. They immediately left the room, carrying their +bedding with them, and spent the rest of the night in fear and +trembling. The next morning we made a very careful examination of the +roof, to see if by any possible means soldiers could have entered our +compound. We found that next door was the house of the head of the +soldiers, and it was possible that some of his guard might have found +their way over the walls and down to our house.</p> +<p>Nothing, however, was ever proved; but no one could ever be induced +to use that room again, the women declaring that it was haunted by evil +spirits. Finally, we made it into a hen-house; but the fowls and +turkeys all sickened and died, so there evidently was something very +wrong with the atmosphere of that room! Our first attempt at a +women’s ward was certainly a failure, but “it is an ill +wind that blows nobody any good,” and so good came out of this +evil. As the women would not use the haunted (?) <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb268" href="#pb268" name= +"pb268">268</a>]</span>room, other accommodation had to be found, so we +gave up our house for them, while we moved into the one next +door—the room which was neither good for human beings nor for +feathered fowls being now used as a wood-house.</p> +<p>Once when travelling in the desert, a spot was pointed out to us as +being the abode of Jinns and Genii. This spot is much abhorred by the +muleteers, as they believe that any one camping on that ground is +liable to be overtaken by a terrible death. The enchanted ground is +encircled by some landmarks, and it is said that any one going to sleep +within that magic circle will at once be visited by the Jinns +inhabiting the spot, who will immediately come and suck his blood till +he is dead. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb269" href="#pb269" name= +"pb269">269</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch2.9" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter IX</h2> +<h2 class="main">Manners and Superstitions in Mosul</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Characteristics of inhabitants of Mosul—Social +habits—Love of drink—An effectual +cure—Gambling—Tel Kaif: a story of Uncle Goro—The +Angel of Death and other titles—Difficulties over name and +age—Some superstitions—Effect of scent on women—Birds +of good omen—Thieves—Sheep-killing—Sheikh +Matti—An angel’s visit—Medical +superstitions—Cure for hydrophobia.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<p class="first">“Nothing has more effect upon the mob than +superstition.”</p> +<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Quintus Curtius.</span></p> +<p>“To be superstitious is a crime.”</p> +<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Anon.</span></p> +<p>“Sickness and sorrow come and go, but a superstitious soul +hath no rest.”</p> +<p class="signed"><span class="sc">R. Burton.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The natives of Mosul are, as a rule, a very +simple-hearted folk. They are easily amused, easily taken in, and as +easily roused to passion. They are, on the whole, good-tempered and +patient, and, considering the absolute lack of self-control in their +method of bringing up, they give way far less to their passions than +might be expected.</p> +<p>They dearly love social habits, and spend much time in company, +telling and listening to stories, smoking, and drinking coffee. +Unfortunately, they do not confine their drink to coffee, and these +social habits often lead to a great deal of drinking. Arak is the +favourite refreshment at these times, and is <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb270" href="#pb270" name= +"pb270">270</a>]</span>indulged in by both Christian and Moslem alike. +It is a pure spirit, and is made by the Christians and Jews of Mosul, +and sold by them to the Moslems. No ceremony is complete without the +arak bottle. At weddings, funerals, dinner parties, at each and every +season of life, it is thought necessary to provide this fire-water. I +am sorry to say that the women also drink, but not to such an extent as +the men.</p> +<p>It is, of course, considered a great sin for a Moslem to drink +either wine or spirit, as both have been forbidden in the Koran: but +their love for the arak is stronger in many cases than their love of +the Koran. A Mosul Moslem woman told me a short time ago that she did +not think there was one Moslem man in Mosul who did not drink either +wine or arak. I hope this is an exaggeration, but the tendency to be +less ashamed of the drinking habit and to indulge in it more freely is +growing more and more. It is sad to think that the Christians of the +city are the manufacturers and vendors of spirit and wines, and that +they are responsible for introducing them into Mosul.</p> +<p>A story is told of a Sultan of Turkey who, desirous of putting a +stop to the ever-increasing drink traffic, made a law by which every +Moslem found the worse for drink should be cast into prison. The first +morning after the new law had come into action, a Moslem was found +drunk lying in the street, incapable of walking to his home. He was +immediately taken to prison, and allowed to sleep off the effects of +the drink. When he awoke, great was his surprise to find himself in the +interior of <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb271" href="#pb271" name= +"pb271">271</a>]</span>a prison. On being taken before the judge, he +pleaded “Not guilty,” and said that he had been suffering +for some days from a terrible pain in his tooth, and yesterday had gone +to the hakeem (doctor) to obtain medicine to relieve the pain. The +doctor had told him that the best cure for his pain was to drink a +little brandy, so he had followed his advice, with the result that he +fell asleep and only awoke to find himself in prison. The judge then +commiserated the man on having such bad pain, but assured him it was +easily remedied. Calling to one of his servants, he ordered him to go +at once and fetch the barber, who acted as dentist to all such +sufferers. The prisoner assured his excellency the judge that it really +did not matter, the pain was better. “But,” said the judge +sympathetically, “it may come back.” The barber was brought +and told to examine the man’s mouth. Finding no sign of decay, he +assured the judge that the teeth were sound. The judge began to revile +the dentist, saying, “You call yourself a dentist and do not know +which is the tooth causing this man pain. Find it, and pull it out at +once.” Trembling, the dentist took his forceps and extracted a +back tooth. “Let me see,” cried the judge. “Why, that +is not rotten; what do you mean by pulling out a good tooth? Pull +<i>the</i> rotten one out at once.” Then the dentist again +operated on his unwilling victim, and a second time the judge upbraided +him for not drawing the right tooth, and ordered him to go on till he +had found the one that was decayed. The wretched prisoner, feeling he +could not bear to lose any more teeth, <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb272" href="#pb272" name="pb272">272</a>]</span>called out that it +was all a lie: he never had had any toothache, and only drank brandy +because he loved it, and promised never to touch it again. The judge +smilingly bade his prisoner begone, warning him, however, that next +time he offended all his teeth might have to come out.</p> +<p>Closely associated with drinking is the gambling habit. This too, +alas! is very prevalent in Mosul. In almost every house card-playing +forms the chief pastime both in the hareem and amongst the men, and, as +a rule, they play for money. Enormous sums of money are lost and won in +this way, and, unfortunately, those in good positions are the ones who +profit most by this gambling habit. One lady was the possessor of many +beautiful jewels, diamonds, pearls, &c., and I was told that she +had won them all by gambling.</p> +<p>We are always very glad to take part in the social customs of the +people when neither drinking nor gambling is part of the programme, and +I, at least, certainly very much enjoy a dinner served <i lang= +"fr">à l’Arabe</i>, with its attendant native +entertainment. The after-dinner story-telling is very amusing when you +have mastered the language sufficiently to be able to follow the drift +of the tale. Shortly before leaving, we gave a farewell dinner to some +of our friends, and, after dinner, entertained them with fireworks, +while one of the guests amused us all by recounting stories, some of +which were very interesting. One was as follows:—</p> +<p>“There is a village near Mosul called Tel Kaif, in which all +the inhabitants are Christians. They are a very original set of people, +differing altogether <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb273" href="#pb273" +name="pb273">273</a>]</span>from the Christians of Mosul in language, +dress, and customs. They consider they are quite the most clever and +important people under the sun, and this idea is apparent in all their +actions. Many years ago there lived in Tel Kaif a very clever and wise +man called Uncle Goro. If any one was in trouble he immediately went to +this man for advice; if any were sorrowful, it was to Uncle Goro they +looked for consolation; were any sick, again it was Uncle Goro alone +who could heal them. In fact, Uncle Goro was looked upon by the +admiring villagers as their one hope and stay in times of need. One day +a cow belonging to the village felt very thirsty. Now, the water supply +of Tel Kaif is not very good, the villagers being dependent upon a +large pool of rain-water, which sometimes dries up during the +long-continued season of drought. Doubtless this cow did not approve of +drinking dirty rain-water, so, while seeking for other means of slaking +her thirst, she espied near the doorway of a house a large earthen +water-pot. Into this she looked longingly, but her horns at first +prevented her from reaching the water. However, after a little careful +manipulation and perseverance, she managed to insert her head into the +jar. When she had satisfied her thirst, she tried to withdraw her head, +but found she could not, so there it had to remain, while the +bewildered villagers looked on in helpless astonishment. At last they +decided to appeal to their wise man, so one went off in search of him. +When he arrived on the spot and beheld the cow with her head in the +water-jar, he considered thoughtfully for <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb274" href="#pb274" name="pb274">274</a>]</span>a while, and then +gave his advice in the following learned manner.</p> +<p>“Oh, my children,” he cried, “here is such a +simple matter, and yet you could not find a way out of the difficulty. +I am surprised that my fellow-men should be so ignorant.”</p> +<p>Then they all crowded round Uncle Goro, beseeching him out of his +great wisdom to tell them what to do.</p> +<p>“First,” said Uncle Goro, “you must cut off the +cow’s head, then break the water-pot and take out the +head!”</p> +<p>This brilliant suggestion was at once put into practice, the owner +of the cow being the only one who was not quite so sure of the +exceeding greatness of the wisdom of Uncle Goro. When the deed was +accomplished and the head extricated from its awkward position, the old +man stood and proudly addressed the assembled crowd who had flocked to +hear his words of wisdom. “My beloved children,” said he, +“a day will come when your old Uncle Goro will die, and then what +will you do when you have no one to settle such difficult matters as +these for you? Pray to God that your Uncle Goro may long be spared to +advise and counsel you.”</p> +<p>A rather pretty custom exists in Mosul which gives people titles +according to their work, or any special characteristics belonging to +them. For example, the butcher is called “the father of +meat”; the baker, “the father of bread.” In the +hospital, when I am giving orders for the diet list, we hardly ever +speak of the patients by name, but according to their disease, as +“Aboo” (father) liver abscess, +“Aboo-mai-abiyud” <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb275" +href="#pb275" name="pb275">275</a>]</span>(father of cataract). One of +the assistants in the hospital was named “The Angel of +Death” by a poor little girl who was brought to the doctor a mass +of burns. It was the duty of this assistant to dress the terrible +wounds of the child every day, and though as gentle as a woman, he +necessarily pained her a great deal—hence the term “Angel +of Death.” The women are designated in the same way as the men, +only substituting “mother” for “father,” as +“Em haleeb,” milk-woman; “Em saba’ +saba’een,” mother of seventy-seven (or centipede), this +last simply referring to a girl suffering from hysteria.</p> +<p>This was an interesting case which was in the women’s hospital +for some weeks. The patient was a young woman about sixteen years of +age. She was under the delusion that she had swallowed a +“saba’ saba’een” (a horny centipede, measuring +some seven or eight inches, common in Mosul). She declared she could +not eat anything, for every time she swallowed, the saba’ +saba’een opened its mouth and ate the food just partaken of! She +absolutely refused to touch anything of her own accord, so we had to +force food down her throat. Two or three women would hold her hands and +feet while I fed her with a spoon. As time went on she became worse +instead of better, and was always beseeching my husband to operate on +her and take out the saba’ saba’een. After a time he +consented to give her an anæsthetic and operate. On the day +appointed she was taken to the theatre and given a whiff of chloroform, +while the doctor made a slight incision in her skin. This was stitched +up, and she was shown her wound and assured that the doctor had cut her +and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb276" href="#pb276" name= +"pb276">276</a>]</span>found nothing. After this she was much happier, +and was soon well enough to leave the hospital.</p> +<p>Women never know their age in Mosul. On dispensary days each woman +is required to give her name and age. The first difficulty is over the +name. Many do not know their surnames at all. When asked, “What +is your father’s name?” they say, “How do I +know?” and then add with a laugh, “Say Bint Abdulla” +(daughter of a servant of God). Abdulla is often a very convenient name +when the parentage is uncertain.</p> +<p>With regard to their age, women are quite hopeless. I have often +seen an old lady, bent double with the weight of many years, come into +the dispensary.</p> +<p>“Well, mother, how old are you?” I ask her.</p> +<p>“How old am I? How do I know, my daughter?”</p> +<p>“Do you think you are fifteen?”</p> +<p>“Well, I may be.”</p> +<p>“Are you twenty yet?”</p> +<p>“Perhaps I am,” replies the fair damsel of eighty. +“I know I was born two years before the year that the locusts ate +all the corn.”</p> +<p>As to how many years ago the locusts destroyed the crop she has not +the remotest idea.</p> +<p>Or another woman will come, certainly not more than twenty or +twenty-five, the mother of a baby in arms. On being asked her age she +replies, “About sixty”! The natives never have any idea +when their birthdays are, but keep their name-days instead. Thus +amongst the Christians all Johns will keep the feast of St. John as +their feast-day, and so on.</p> +<p>Parents have a convenient way of forgetting the date of the birth of +their daughters. A girl who is <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb277" +href="#pb277" name="pb277">277</a>]</span>not betrothed will remain +twelve or thirteen for much more than one year; for when she has passed +fourteen or fifteen years she is no longer considered young, and not +very likely to be betrothed at all if her real age is known.</p> +<p>The natives of Mosul are very superstitious; more especially, +perhaps, is this true of the women. One curious superstition they have +with regard to scent. Now an odour which is filthy and dangerous, such +as may be <i>felt</i> in most of the houses, is not at all injurious +from their standpoint, but a sweet-smelling scent is an abomination to +the women. If by any chance I have been using anything in the way of +scent (though as a rule I am very careful not to), the first thing I +see on entering a room is that the women all immediately apply their +handkerchiefs to their olfactory organs. At first this custom appears, +to say the least, not too polite; but when you realise \ what it means +to them, you understand and excuse them. They firmly believe that a +sweet smell brings sickness and sorrow—that it is equally fatal +to mothers and young children—hence the great fear of anything in +the way of scent. One day our reception-room was full of women who had +come to visit me. Suddenly a visitor was announced (a native of the +country, but not of Mosul); immediately all the women crowded into one +corner, burying their heads in their chuddars. I could not make out +what had disturbed them till I discovered that the new-comer was +strongly scented. She was left severely alone by all the others, who +kept as far away as possible from her, some even leaving the room, +fearing lest evil should overtake them. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb278" href="#pb278" name="pb278">278</a>]</span></p> +<p>Another day I went to visit a little patient of my husband’s +in whom he took a great interest. This little boy was the spoilt +darling of his parents, the father especially idolising him, watching +over him carefully lest any harm should befall him. Great was his +consternation and distress when it was found that an operation was +necessary to save the life of the boy. When the little chap was +convalescent I went to see him. After talking to the mother some time +in another room, she suggested our going to see the boy. No sooner had +I appeared at the threshold of the door, when the boy buried his face +in his hands, calling out, “Oh, you smell, you smell!” I +assured both the mother and the boy that I had no scent of any kind on +me, but the boy would not be pacified, and continued crying out, +“Go away—you smell!” As he was still weak, I thought +I had better depart, as excitement was bad for him. When visiting +amongst the women it is better not to use scented soap, as they detect +even that sometimes!</p> +<p>Birds have a good many superstitions connected with them. Last year, +while we were waiting for the decision of our committee regarding the +future of the mission in Mosul, some women informed me that “good +news was coming.” Good news meant to them that the Mission was to +be kept on. On asking how they knew, they told me they had just heard a +bird singing which is supposed never to raise his voice except as the +harbinger of good tidings. Storks are looked upon as omens of good +luck. These birds return every spring to Mosul, hatch their eggs, and +migrate in early autumn. The natives of Mosul always hail their return +with great joy, especially if they nest <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb279" href="#pb279" name="pb279">279</a>]</span>on their roofs. Some +will even go so far as to put baskets on the roofs, hoping that the +storks will be attracted by them and make them their home for the +summer. They agree with Longfellow in his love of storks, as expressed +in his poem—</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line xd20e3462">“By God in heaven</p> +<p class="line">As a blessing, the dear white stork was +given.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first">If there had been any truth in this superstition, we +ought to have been very prosperous; for at one time we had no less than +three families of storks on our roof. Personally I think they are not +altogether too desirable, for when sleeping on the roof they are apt to +become very noisy companions. I do not think I like to be laughed at by +these birds. In the early morning they stand close by one’s bed, +throw back their heads till they rest on their backs, and then laugh +aloud at the idea of any one sleeping when once dawn has appeared.</p> +<p>The common name for storks in Mosul is “the thieves,” as +they sometimes steal small articles of clothing hanging out to dry, +such as handkerchiefs; and no one would ever dare to go to the nest to +hunt, lest they should disturb the birds and cause them to fly away. +These birds are rather a convenience sometimes for the washerwoman: +when blouses disappear it is easy to lay the blame on the +“thieves.” They are almost as useful as the proverbial +“cat.”</p> +<p>Our servant Judy is a little woman full of queer superstitious +ideas. While in Mosul I received the sad news of the death of my +father: poor Judy was so distressed lest by over-much mourning I should +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb280" href="#pb280" name= +"pb280">280</a>]</span>tempt God to take my husband too. As dressmaking +is rather primitive in Mosul I decided to have some things dyed black. +Judy would not hear of such a thing, saying that only widows must wear +dyed clothes, and that if I wore dyed dresses for my father, she was +sure something would happen to my husband.</p> +<p>Another thing she never would do, and that is to step over our feet! +In the summer evenings we used to sit in our verandah, which was rather +narrow, and if by chance we should place our feet on a hassock in front +of us there remained no room for any one to pass. I could not make out +why Judy would never pass that way when it was necessary to enter the +room at our back. At last she told me that if she stepped over our +feet, she would be in danger of “cutting our life,” and +that if we died it would be her fault. After this I often tried to make +her step over my feet, by blocking her pathway, but she never would, so +strong was her belief that by so doing she would cut short my life!</p> +<p>It is surprising how ignorantly superstitious some of the +better-class people are. A wife of a very wealthy Christian merchant in +Mosul had a child who suffered terribly from sore eyes. She brought him +to the dispensary for some time, but finding that the treatment pained +the child and made him cry, ceased to bring him. We heard afterwards +that she had resorted to the following superstitious method of +healing.</p> +<p>A sheep was bought, killed, and opened: while the blood was still +hot the head of the child was inserted into the middle of the +sheep’s body and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb281" href= +"#pb281" name="pb281">281</a>]</span>allowed to remain there about +fifteen minutes. Could any treatment be more revolting and disgusting +than this? and yet these people, rich and influential members of Mosul +society, really believed that by doing this their child’s eyes +would be cured. Needless to say it had not the desired effect, and +months afterwards they again brought the child to the dispensary, and +having learnt their lesson by experience, were content to leave the +child in the English hakim’s hands, with the result that after a +couple of months’ daily treatment the eyes were quite healed.</p> +<p>I do not know what virtue is supposed to exist in the killing of the +sheep or goat, but it is a custom very much in vogue in Mosul. On our +return from Beyrout, after having been absent three months, a live goat +was brought out into the desert to meet us, and the moment we alighted +from our carriage this poor creature was slaughtered right under our +eyes. In Persia the custom amongst the Armenians at a wedding feast was +for a sheep to be killed just as the bride and bridegroom were stepping +over the threshold of their new home. It was not considered lucky if +the bride did not put her foot into the blood as she passed. In Mosul, +too, I believe a sheep is sometimes slaughtered at weddings in this +way, but I have never seen it done.</p> +<p>When a wife is desirous of becoming a mother, there are various +superstitious methods to which she may resort, but perhaps the +favourite one of all is that connected with Sheikh Matti. This is a +monastery situated some twelve hours’ ride from Mosul, +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb282" href="#pb282" name= +"pb282">282</a>]</span>on the side of a lonely mountain. The woman +makes a pilgrimage to this place, and is then told that she must spend +a night in the solitary chapel there. While she sleeps an angel will +visit the building, and if her request is to be vouchsafed her, will +place an apple by her head. If the angel desires to be especially kind +to the woman, he will place two, or even three apples near her, the +number of apples indicating how many children God is going to honour +her with. Strange to say, these angel visits do not take place unless +provoked by a fair amount of backsheesh!</p> +<p>There are a good many superstitions regarding medical treatment of +diseases and accidents, but these, I believe, are fast dying out in the +face of European learning and skill. The people are learning by +experience how much better are the English methods than their own. For +instance, it used to be the common custom for those suffering from +fever to go to the mullah, who would lay his hands on the +patient’s head while reading a few verses from the Koran. If the +fever did not go at once, well, it was the fault of the fever, not of +the mullah. I fancy fever patients are beginning to prefer English +medicines rather than to trust to the laying on of hands by the mullah. +When any one has been bitten by a mad dog, which, considering the +number of street dogs, is of very rare occurrence, he goes at once to a +sheikh, who will give him an antidote. This consists of a date from +which the stone has been taken, and into which the sheikh has spat two +or three times to fill up the gap caused by the removal of the stone. +Upon eating this, the man <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb283" href= +"#pb283" name="pb283">283</a>]</span>is supposed to be free from all +fear of the development of hydrophobia.</p> +<p>These are merely a few of the superstitious customs found in Mosul +to-day. Had we time or space they might be multiplied many times over, +but enough, I trust, has been said to awaken love and sympathy in our +hearts for these simple folk, whose minds are so easily influenced and +guided by these useless and often degrading</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Heart-chilling superstitions, which can +glaze</p> +<p class="line">Even Pity’s eye with her own frozen +tears.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Coleridge.</span> <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb284" href="#pb284" name="pb284">284</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch2.10" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter X</h2> +<h2 class="main">The Yezidees</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Gratitude to the +English—Persecutions—“Devil-worshippers”—Sun +and fire worship—Priesthood—A visit to Sheikh +Âdi—Peacock wands—A sacred shrine.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Whoever thou art, if thy need be great,</p> +<p class="line">In the Name of God, the Compassionate</p> +<p class="line">And All-Merciful One—</p> +<p class="line xd20e1108">For Thee I wait.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Whittier.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The Yezidees, or, as they are commonly called, +“devil-worshippers,” are a very remarkable tribe living in +the near vicinity of Mosul. Very little is really known as to their +religious beliefs, and whether they worship the devil or only fear him, +has never yet been discovered by Europeans.</p> +<p>These curious people are very favourably disposed towards the +English, as many years ago the British representative in Mosul was able +to assist them very materially. The Mohammedans have always been very +bitter against this people, and have done all in their power to +exterminate them. A former Pasha at one time captured the high priest +of the Yezidees, whose name was Sheikh Naser; he somehow managed to +escape, substituting in his place a priest under him in authority. The +priest never revealed this fact, and bore with resignation the tortures +and imprisonment inflicted upon him. The Yezidees applied to +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb285" href="#pb285" name= +"pb285">285</a>]</span>Mr. Rassam, who was the British Vice-Consul at +Mosul, and he obtained the release of the priest by paying a large sum +as ransom money. This debt was faithfully repaid, and since that time +the Yezidees have cherished very grateful memories of the English.</p> +<p>Many years ago these Yezidees were a very powerful tribe. They had +two principal strongholds, one in the mountains lying to the west of +Mosul, and the other only twenty-four hours’ journey to the +north. By means of continual attacks and massacres at the hands of the +Kurds, their population has been reduced considerably, only about +one-third remaining of their original number.</p> +<p>Mohammedans are always very bitter against any sect which is +supposed to have no “Book.” The Yezidees, coming under this +category, receive little mercy from them, and for centuries have been +exposed to persecutions from these their oppressors. Of late years the +Yezidees have seen the uselessness of rebelling against their fate, +and, acknowledging their defeat, are patiently bearing their +misfortunes.</p> +<p>These so-called devil-worshippers recognise one Supreme Being, but +apparently do not offer any prayers directly to Him. The name of God is +often on their lips in the form of oaths, but that of the evil spirit +is never to be heard. So far do they carry this superstition, that not +only will they not use the word Shaitan (Satan), but any word beginning +with “sh” is also shunned by them. Then, again, such a +veneration have they for Satan, that it is prohibited amongst the +Yezidees to utter any word containing the letter <span class="Arabic" +lang="ar">ش</span> (shin), being the first letter of the +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb286" href="#pb286" name= +"pb286">286</a>]</span>Arabic word for Satan. Thus they have to find +other words to express such commonly spoken of objects as the sun, +river, water-melon, &c., as they each begin with the prohibited +letter. Layard, in his Travels amongst them, tells of one instance +illustrating this superstition. He was standing in the midst of a large +crowd of Yezidees gathered to take part in their yearly feast, when he +espied a boy climbing a tree at the apparent risk of his neck. He says, +“As I looked up I saw the impending danger, and made an effort by +an appeal to the chief to avert it. ‘If that young +Sheit—’ I exclaimed, about to use an epithet generally +applied in the East to such adventurous youths. I checked myself +immediately, but it was too late; half the dreaded word had +escaped.” He goes on to say that the effect was instantaneous, a +look of horror spreading over the faces of all present. Fortunately for +him, he was a favourite amongst the Yezidees, and so they allowed it to +pass. So great is the horror of this letter, that they have often +killed those who use it wilfully. When speaking of the devil they do so +reverently, calling him the “mighty angel.”</p> +<p>The symbol of their religion is the “Malek el Taous,” a +peacock, and is held in great reverence by them. Satan is said to be +the head of the angelic host, and he is supplied with seven archangels, +who minister to him and exercise great influence over the world; they +are Gabriel, Michael, Raphael, Azrail, Dedrail, Azrapheel, and +Shemkeel. Our Lord is also counted amongst the angels, though not one +of these seven, and is acknowledged to have taken upon Himself the form +of man. They, in common with <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb287" href= +"#pb287" name="pb287">287</a>]</span>the Mohammedans, do not believe in +His crucifixion; but declare that He ascended to heaven just before +that event took place, some saying that the angel Gabriel took our +Lord’s place on the Cross, while others say Judas was the real +victim. They are looking forward to the second coming of Christ and +also to the reappearance of the Imam; this latter being also the +Mohammedan’s hope. Their patron saint is one called Sheikh +Âdi, who is supposed to have lived many years before Mohammed; +but very little is known of his history.</p> +<p>They reverence the sun, and are in the habit of kissing the object +on which its first rays fall. Fire as a symbol is also connected with +their worship, the disciples frequently passing their hands through the +flame, kissing them, and then rubbing them over their faces. They have +four orders of priesthood, which is hereditary, and consists of the +Pirs, Sheikhs, Cawals, and the Fakirs.</p> +<p>The Pirs (from a Persian word meaning old man) are the most +reverenced next to their great sheikh or head of the sect. These are +believed to possess the power not only of interceding for their +adherents, but also of curing disease and insanity. They are +<i>supposed</i> to lead a life of great sanctity, and are in +consequence much looked up to by the people.</p> +<p>The Sheikhs come next in order of rank. These are supposed to know a +little Arabic, as their work is to write the hymns which are chanted at +their religious services. They guard the tomb of Sheikh Âdi, +bring fuel to keep up the holy fire, and provisions to those who dwell +within the shrine.</p> +<p>The third rank of priesthood is perhaps the most <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb288" href="#pb288" name= +"pb288">288</a>]</span>active of all. These are called Cawals or +preachers, and it is their duty to go from village to village teaching +the doctrines of the Yezidees. They are all musicians, being taught to +sing when very young; they also perform on the flute and tambourine, +both of these instruments being looked upon as holy. Before and after +playing they often kiss their instruments, and pass them to the +audience for them to do likewise. They dress as a rule in white and +wear black turbans, while the sheikhs always wear nothing but white. +They are generally venerable-looking men with long beards. They act as +emissaries for the sheikh, and yearly go forth and collect the +revenues. Their emblem of office is a wand, on the top of which is +perched a brazen peacock, and they boast with pride that never have +their enemies been able to capture one of these staves. They relate how +on one memorable occasion a priest, being chased through the desert by +Arabs, in the heat of the pursuit stopped his mare, descended, and +buried the precious badge of office; then, marking the exact site for +future reference, resumed his flight. Having escaped with his life, six +months later he managed to recover the buried staff, creeping down by +night into the desert from his mountain shelter. Now why should they +place such a high value on these emblems? A possible solution was given +me by the Rev. Dr. St. Clair Tisdall, who recalled to my mind an old +Mohammedan tradition that it was the peacock who admitted Satan into +the garden of Eden. This would strengthen the suspicion that the +Yezidees really do worship the evil one.</p> +<p>The lowest order in the priesthood are called <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb289" href="#pb289" name= +"pb289">289</a>]</span>Fakirs. These wear coarse dresses of black or +dark-brown canvas, which reach only as far as the knees. Their office +is to perform all the menial work connected with the tomb of Sheikh +Âdi, sweeping and cleaning the sacred buildings, trimming and +lighting the holy lamps. These lamps are offerings made by pilgrims who +have visited the tomb in times of danger or sickness.</p> +<p>A yearly sum is subscribed for the oil necessary for the lamps and +for the support of the priests. At sunset each evening these lamps are +lit, and give the appearance of a multitude of stars glittering on the +side of the mountain; for not only are the lamps placed in the shrine +and walls of the courtyard, but they are also scattered about on rocks +and ledges and in the dark corners of the woods. As the priest goes +from lamp to lamp lighting each one, men and women pass their hands +through the flame and smear their foreheads, and those who have +children do the same to them. This reverence for fire reminds one of +the Parsees of Persia, whom these people in many ways resemble.</p> +<p>Unfortunately I was unable to visit these interesting villages, but +I hope to do so on a future occasion. We had intended to spend a month +amongst them during the summer of 1906, the sheikh having extended a +cordial invitation to us. My husband accordingly went up to +reconnoitre, and see if there was any place possible either to stay in +or to pitch our tent. He found, however, that it was hardly a suitable +place for a summer holiday, as the climate was not very satisfactory, +besides which it was difficult to find a place for the tents; so we +decided we would not go that <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb290" href= +"#pb290" name="pb290">290</a>]</span>year at any rate. Both my husband +and the men with him were quite ill for a few hours after visiting +Sheikh Âdi, so they were not anxious to return. The natives say +that this illness is caused by drinking the water, but that the effect +passes off after a few days, when one has become accustomed to the +water.</p> +<p>My husband, however, much enjoyed his visit amongst these strange +people, and in writing of that time he says:—</p> +<p>“These interesting people dwell in the mountains round about +Mosul, the ancient Nineveh. They are ruled over by a sheikh, who claims +to be able to put some ten thousand armed horsemen in the field. On +account of their suspected devil-worship they are detested by Moslems +and Christians alike. The Turks have more than once endeavoured to +exterminate them; but, entrenched in their mountain fastnesses, they +are very hard to overcome.</p> +<p>“When in Mosul their sheikh called on me and asked me to pay +him a visit up in his mountain home. Thus I was able to see their homes +for myself, also the sacred shrine, hidden away in the mountains, where +their reputed founder (Sheikh Âdi) lies buried, from whom it +derives its name.</p> +<p>“The Yezidees, like the Druses of Mount Lebanon, are very +reluctant to discuss their religion, and it is said that death is the +penalty for any one among them who reveals the truth concerning what +they worship.</p> +<p>“On paying a visit to their sacred shrine (Sheikh Âdi), +I found it hidden in the hollow of thickly-wooded mountains, and +composed of two large compounds, the inner compound containing the +shrine <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb291" href="#pb291" name= +"pb291">291</a>]</span>in a church-like building with a newly-built +steeple. On the right side of the entrance porch is the figure of a +huge serpent graven in the stone of the building, with its head +uppermost. This serpent is kept blackened daily with charcoal by the +two or three old monks who live in the shrine. Upon inquiring the +meaning of this symbol, the monk told me it was graven there to remind +the worshippers to remove their sandals from off their feet, as the +ground around the shrine is holy. If any should be careless or wicked +enough to disobey, it was said that they would be bitten on the heels +by some of the snakes that were said to infest the place.</p> +<p>“The steeple rises immediately from the room in the church +that once contained the body of their founder, Sheikh Âdi. This +sheikh was a great Mohammedan teacher who many centuries ago used to +preach and teach in Damascus. He gathered around him many disciples, +and it is said he was accustomed to vary the monotony of his teaching +by drawing a circle on the ground, and, placing therein himself and +some favourite disciple, would enable the latter to hear and understand +the teaching of another famous mullah speaking in far-away Baghdad.</p> +<p>“This Sheikh Âdi some years before his death retired to +this place in the mountains, two days’ journey from Mosul, and +there he was visited by many, as his fame spread abroad, and in this +place he died and was buried. The Yezidees claim that, ere he died, he +forsook Mohammedanism and instituted a new religion. The Moslems, +however, reverence his memory, and say that the Yezidees, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb292" href="#pb292" name= +"pb292">292</a>]</span><i>after</i> his death, started a new religion +of their own.</p> +<p>“In the church there was to be seen a pool of water, said by +them to be used as a baptistery, and little else but bare walls. My +guide assured me it used to look very different, but fifteen years +previously the Turks had captured the place and destroyed all they +could lay hands on. On the roof near the steeple are two stones, facing +east and west, said to be used as prayer-stones, the Yezidees praying +as the <i>first ray</i> of the rising sun appears, and as the <i>last +ray</i> of the setting sun departs, and use these stones as indicators. +This, again, is interesting, as (according to Dr. Tisdall) it is a +curious fact that Mohammedan tradition avers that it is alone at these +two times daily that the devil has power to intercept the prayers of +the faithful, and they are, therefore, to be scrupulously avoided by +all true Moslems.</p> +<p>“The Yezidees are loath to venture into the city, but a few +have already commenced to attend the Mission Dispensary. They are +easily recognised by their costume, and by the fact that no Yezidee is +allowed to wear any garment exposing the breast. One of these patients +informed me that when he wanted to worship he went to the priest +(cawal), paid him a small fee, and was placed in a small room, the +filthier the better, and made to sit on the floor. The priest would +then sit in front of him and make him imagine himself to be in Paradise +(the Eastern idea of Paradise—lovely garden, flowing stream, +trees laden with fruit, houris, &c.). If (and it is a big +‘if’) his statement was true, it <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb293" href="#pb293" name= +"pb293">293</a>]</span>would point to their priests having some +knowledge of hypnotism, but the Yezidees will say anything to mislead +an inquirer.</p> +<p>“We had a little Yezidee boy in hospital with his mother. He +had been successfully operated upon for stone, but developed jaundice +and gradually sank. One evening, ere his mother took him back to her +village, a message was brought to us imploring my wife and me to wash +our hands in the water our servant brought us; the same water was then +to be given by the Yezidee mother to her dying boy that he might drink +and live!</p> +<p>“One longs to be able to tell them of Him who is the Water of +Life: but they have a language of their own, and understand but little +Arabic.</p> +<p>“Will not my readers pray that the Mosul Mission may be +strengthened and properly equipped; that the Gospel may be preached to +these poor Yezidees, as well as to their Mohammedan neighbours; and +that they may learn to love Him who alone has power to cast out +devils?” <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb294" href="#pb294" name= +"pb294">294</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch2.11" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter XI</h2> +<h2 class="main">Travelling in the Desert</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Monotony of desert travelling—A puppy and a +kitten—Tragedy—Accident by the river Euphrates—Riots +in Mosul—Robberies and murder excited by love of gold.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Of moving accidents by flood and field,</p> +<p class="line">Of hairbreadth ’scapes....</p> +<p class="line">The shot of accident, nor dart of chance</p> +<p class="line">Could neither graze nor pierce....”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Travelling in the desert is apt to become rather +monotonous when each day goes by with nothing to mark it from the +preceding one, so that when some event out of the common does take +place it is quite exhilarating. For instance, once during our mid-day +halt, which happened to be on the site of a newly-deserted Arab +encampment, we heard a cry, and looking about found a wee puppy about +two days old. This puppy afforded us amusement for at least two days, +much to the amazement of our muleteers. We wrapped it in flannel, +placed it in the sunshine to try and instil some warmth into its chilly +body, and presently we had the satisfaction of hearing its wailing +gradually cease as the sunshine penetrated the flannel. We managed to +keep life in the poor little beast for two or three days, but, as milk +is <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb295" href="#pb295" name= +"pb295">295</a>]</span>scarce in the desert, it was impossible to feed +it properly.</p> +<p>One evening we arrived at an Arab encampment, and thought it would +be kinder to leave the poor puppy with one of the Arabs, who are +supposed to be fond of dogs. So we persuaded our servant to take the +puppy and deposit it in one of the tents. He did so very reluctantly, +thinking he might be shot at for venturing near after dusk. However, he +crept up quietly and placed the puppy just inside one of the tents. +Immediately the owner demanded who was there, but Aboo (our servant) +fled without waiting to answer. We heard the Arab using some strong +language, and then, catching sight of the poor puppy, he took it up and +threw it out into the desert. We could hear the little thing squealing +and crying, so my husband went to rescue it once more from an untimely +end. He found it on top of a rubbish heap, brought it back to our tent, +and we tried again to warm and soothe it. The next day, however, the +little spark of remaining life was quenched. So the short story of this +little forsaken waif ended in a sad tragedy, and my husband undertook +the dismal duty of committing its body to the deep waters of the +river.</p> +<p>Another day one of our escort galloped up with great excitement to +show us a kitten he had just found in the desert—the poor little +mite was so thankful to see a human being again, and had evidently been +left behind in much the same manner as the puppy when the Arab tribe +was migrating.</p> +<p>These are small episodes of the desert which help <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb296" href="#pb296" name="pb296">296</a>]</span>to +break the monotony. I may perhaps be allowed to misquote the well-known +lines of S. Gregory:—</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“A little thing is a little thing,</p> +<p class="line">But ‘excitement’ in little things</p> +<p class="line">Is a great thing”—in the desert.</p> +</div> +<p class="first">On one occasion we passed an Arab lying on his back +and covered with his <i>aba</i>, the native cloak worn by all classes. +We heard afterwards that it was a case of murder; that the man had been +dead three days, and only then had been found by his sons, who were out +searching for their father. Hastily covering him with one of their +cloaks, they had rushed off to try and find the murderer and avenge +their father’s blood. We met them soon afterwards, and they told +the whole story to our escort.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e3657width" id="p296"><img src="images/p296.jpg" +alt="Travelling in Winter" width="720" height="338"> +<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Travelling in Winter</span></p> +<p class="first">A large caravan leaving Isphahan for Yezd while snow +is lying on the ground. The man who is holding the horse’s head +was our servant for a year. He is an Armenian, and is now working as an +assistant in the Isphahan Hospital.</p> +</div> +<p>In the preceding chapters we have seen how often the cry of +“Wolf, wolf!” was raised when there was no wolf, till we +began to think that the much-talked-of robbers of the desert did not +exist at all, or, if they did exist, would not dare to touch a European +caravan. However, we soon learnt to our cost that this was not the +case.</p> +<p>Two years ago we were travelling from Mosul to Aleppo, and had +almost reached our destination when we met with the following +adventure.</p> +<p>Having reached the end of our stage one day, we had encamped within +a stone’s throw of the river Euphrates, just outside the town of +Beridjik. Our tent was pitched beneath a lovely spreading tree, under +which ran a sparkling stream on its way from the mountains to the +river. We thought what an ideal camping-ground it made, and apparently +the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb297" href="#pb297" name= +"pb297">297</a>]</span>same thought entered the minds of some others, +only from a different standpoint. All round us were signs of the +industry of the villagers in the form of huge stacks of corn freshly +reaped, now waiting for the threshing time to begin. Ere we retired for +the night we were strolling by the stream and amongst the corn, where +we noticed two men sitting in the field, who gave us the evening +salutations as we passed by. We did not attribute any importance to +this fact, as it is not unusual for the villagers to set watchmen to +guard their corn during harvest time and afterwards, till the grain is +safely housed.</p> +<p>So, committing ourselves to the care of Him who never slumbers or +sleeps, we retired to our tent, hoping for a good night’s rest to +prepare us for the journey of the morrow. Our “ideal +camping-ground” I found to have at least one great +disadvantage—a disadvantage common to all grounds which are used +by flocks of goats and sheep for their resting-places. That night these +“pilgrims of the desert” were particularly active, and gave +me no peace or chance of sleep till the early hours of the morning; +then at last, worn-out with the unequal warfare, I fell asleep. I could +not have been sleeping long when I was awakened by a movement on the +part of my camp bedstead. Sleepily I decided in my mind that our donkey +had loosened his tether and was trying to pay us a friendly visit. +Often in the night some animal would get loose, and rub himself against +our tent ropes till he had succeeded in rooting up one peg, when he +would go and practise on another. Thinking this was the case now I +promptly fell asleep again, only to be <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb298" href="#pb298" name="pb298">298</a>]</span>reawakened in a short +time by the same sensation. This time I was quite awake, and in an +instant flashed my electric torch round the tent, just in time to see a +man decamping by the door. I roused my husband (whose sleep is never +disturbed by pilgrims of the night), and told him what had happened. He +immediately rushed out and gave the alarm to the camp. Unfortunately it +was a very dark night, and nothing could be seen a yard ahead, so the +robbers had ample opportunity for beating a retreat. Our tent was some +little way from the village, so my husband returned to the tent to put +on some more garments before going to interview the head-man of the +village, who is always supposed to be responsible for the safety of +caravans. When he came to look for his clothes, the only article he +could find was one shoe, the thieves having cleared the tent of +everything available, even to our tooth-brushes! Not only did they +clear off everything from the tent, but also emptied a large box which +was standing outside the tent, and also took a large valise containing +my husband’s portmanteau and my “hold-all.” Had they +been content with these, we should never have known of their nocturnal +visit till the morning; but in their desire to secure the small carpet +which lay in the middle of the tent, they awoke me, hence the movement +of my bed which twice disturbed my sleep. We felt there was nothing to +be done till daybreak, so retired once more to rest.</p> +<p>As soon as dawn appeared some of the caravan party rode off in +different directions to see if they could find any trace of the +thieves, but of course they had disappeared long ago under cover of the +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb299" href="#pb299" name= +"pb299">299</a>]</span>darkness. The search party, however, brought +back a few garments picked up along the road, which the thieves had +evidently dropped in their hurry when the alarm was given. Our escort, +a soldier from Beridjik, was sent back to the town to notify the +Government officials of the robbery. In a short time the governor of +the place rode out with six or seven other officials, all evidently +much disturbed in their minds lest they should get into disgrace for +allowing any harm to come to a European caravan. The first thing the +governor did was to send for the head-man of the village and have him +bound and beaten. I was so sorry for the poor man, who had a flowing +white beard. I could not bear to witness his beating, so retired to the +tent, and tried to shut out the sound as well as the sight of the old +man’s sufferings. As a matter of fact I do not think the beating +was a very severe one, but the victim made the most of it.</p> +<p>This proving of no avail, they all set out for the neighbouring +villages, and spent the whole of that day and the next scouring the +country for the thieves, returning each day at sunset and renewing the +search early next morning. My husband accompanied them the first day, +and was very much amused by the behaviour of some of the villagers at +sight of the officials. At some villages they would find nothing but +women, the men all having fled at the news that soldiers were coming. +They found plenty of other stolen goods buried in the ground of the +huts, but none of our belongings. In one village a man confidentially +whispered to one of the soldiers that <i>he</i> knew where the stolen +goods were. On being told to lead the <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb300" href="#pb300" name="pb300">300</a>]</span>way to the place, he +led them all to a large field in which were some hundred or more large +corn-stacks, and said that the goods were in one of those. I expect he +much enjoyed his little joke, for after turning over a dozen or so of +these ricks under the scorching sun, the soldiers gave up the task as +hopeless. All efforts proving unavailing, we had perforce to proceed on +our journey, managing as best we could till we reached Aleppo, where we +were able to replenish that which was most lacking in our wardrobe. The +fame of our adventure preceded us to Jerusalem, where a month or two +later we heard a most exaggerated account of our state when we entered +Aleppo.</p> +<p>My husband went at once to our consul on reaching Aleppo, laying +before him the whole story. Fortunately for us, Mr. Longworth was a +most energetic and painstaking man, having great influence with the +Government officials. He asked us to write out an estimate of our +losses, which he presented to the Vali, assuring us he would either +make the Government pay full compensation or produce the lost goods. +After six months of endless work and worry, Mr. Longworth sent my +husband a telegram saying that compensation to the full amount had been +given. We were very thankful to our consul for his unceasing energy in +the matter, and sent him our very grateful thanks. Thus happily ended +No. 1 of our chapter of accidents. When we think of what “might +have been” that night with those wild men of the desert in our +tent while we were sleeping, our hearts go up with great thankfulness +to God, who ever watches over His children, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb301" href="#pb301" name="pb301">301</a>]</span>and +who can keep them as safely in the deserts of Mesopotamia as in the +homeland.</p> +<p>The two men we had noticed sitting amongst the corn had probably +been hired for the purpose of robbing us, but the real culprit was +suspected afterwards to have been one of the leading men of +Beridjik—in fact we were told that he was a member of the +“town council.” Doubtless he wished to procure for himself +and his hareem some European clothing, without the expense of buying +it.</p> +<p>Another peril from which in God’s mercy we were delivered had +its origin in Mosul.</p> +<p>The Vali, in obedience to orders from Constantinople, endeavoured to +register every woman in Mosul. To accomplish this it was necessary to +find out the number and “write” a list of every woman in +each house. Moslems and Christians alike rose in revolt at the idea of +their women being “written,” as it appeared to them +contrary to all the laws of God and Mohammed that such a thing should +be. The whole town was in an uproar, the shops were shut, no business +was done in the sook (bazaar), and men congregated everywhere, talking +angrily and making ugly threats. This went on for five days; such a +thing had never been known before. Sometimes, in times of trouble, work +has been suspended for three days, but no one could remember the sook +being shut for such a length of time as five days.</p> +<p>The Christians began to be very much alarmed for their safety, as it +was rumoured that, unless the Vali gave way, at the expiration of the +fifth day a general massacre of Christians would take place. The French +convent was guarded by soldiers; our <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb302" href="#pb302" name="pb302">302</a>]</span>agent wired to the +Consul-General at Baghdad for a like guard for the English, which +happily, however, was not needed. When my husband was in the house I +did not feel at all nervous, but if he was called out to see a patient +after dark I certainly felt very anxious till he returned; for all +around us was heard the continual firing of guns and pistols, and I +pictured to myself the possibilities and probabilities of some of those +stray bullets. “Alhamd’llillah!” nothing happened, +and we realised again once more that the traveller’s God +<i>is</i> able to keep, as expressed in those incomparable words +commonly known as the Traveller’s Psalm.</p> +<p>On the evening of the fifth day the governor recalled his order for +the names of the women to be written, and all was quiet once more, at +least outwardly. For some time, however, a feeling of unrest was +abroad, several murders taking place that week, one of which still +remains wrapt in mystery. A Moslem enticed a Jew into the country on +the pretext of having some work for him to do; he then made the man dig +a grave; after which he stabbed him, and threw the body into the grave +made by the victim’s own hands. The reason of the murder is +unknown.</p> +<p>One evening we were having dinner, when in rushed my husband’s +chief assistant, in a great state of excitement, to say that his +brother had been stabbed in the sook, and they had brought him to our +outer compound. My husband immediately went out and found the young man +with a wound in his thigh. Had it been a little higher up the result +would probably have been fatal, but <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb303" href="#pb303" name="pb303">303</a>]</span>happily it was a +comparatively trivial wound, and a few stitches and a week’s rest +soon put him right again; but naturally Daoud (the name of the victim) +was very much alarmed, and it was some time before he quite recovered +his nerve and could walk through that sook again. It seemed such an +absolutely meaningless assault, that we could only hope it was a case +of mistaken identity. Daoud had been an assistant for over a year, and +as far as he knew had not a single enemy in the town.</p> +<p>Matters of private dispute and jealousy are often settled by means +of the revolver. An Armenian doctor, a short time ago, was shot when +riding home from visiting a case. He was passing under a dark archway, +when suddenly he heard bullets whizzing and became aware that he was +the target. His horse was so badly hit that he was afraid it could not +recover, but fortunately he himself escaped with only a slight graze or +two. He attributed the motive of this attack to private grudges borne +against him by some of his professional brethren.</p> +<p>There is in Mosul an Armenian woman, whose husband was a doctor who +had been celebrated for one special kind of operation. On his death his +widow thought she might as well continue her husband’s practice, +as she had often assisted him with the operations. Accordingly she set +herself up amongst the many quack doctors of Mosul. Many of her +operations were successful, while the results of a still greater number +remain in obscurity. Her charges were tremendous; no matter how poor +her patient, she would do nothing till a very large fee had been paid. +In this way she made a rich harvest <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb304" href="#pb304" name="pb304">304</a>]</span>while no European +doctor was in the city, but after our arrival I am afraid her income +was considerably lessened. Upon our departure from Mosul I imagine she +again started her lucrative profession of grinding money out of the +poor, for we heard not long ago that she had been stabbed five times +while walking in the streets one evening.</p> +<p>Robberies are very common in Mosul. Almost every evening may be +heard on all hands sounds of shooting, telling of houses being visited +by robbers. Fortunately, so far, they have not favoured us with a +visit, and I sincerely hope they never will. One evening we were +sitting quietly in the verandah when a woman came rushing in from the +women’s hospital compound, saying that there were three men on +the roof. We all rushed out, armed with anything we could lay hands on, +and made a dash for the roof on which the men had been seen, but no +sign of them could be found. One of our servants climbed on to the top +of the wall connecting our house with our neighbour’s, flashing +his lantern all round in his endeavours to see any trace of the +supposed thieves. Excited voices were at once heard asking “Who +is there?” “Why do you throw a light here?” &c.; +and the lantern-bearer found to his horror that he was illuminating +with his lamp the whole of the hareem of our next-door neighbour, who +were all sleeping on the roof, the time being summer. His descent was +much quicker than his ascent, as he was in deadly fear of being shot by +the irate owner of the hareem.</p> +<p>As a rule thieves only think it worth while to go after gold. Silver +is not accounted of any value in <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb305" +href="#pb305" name="pb305">305</a>]</span>Mosul. The natives, +especially perhaps the Christians and Jews, always have a great deal of +gold in their houses, and in consequence live in terror of the robbers +coming to relieve them of it.</p> +<p>Shortly before we left I heard of a very sad case of robbery and +murder. A young Christian girl, who had just been married, was awakened +one night by a man roughly forcing the gold bracelets from her wrist, +holding at the same time a revolver at her head, and telling her if she +made a sound he would shoot her dead. For a time she suffered in +silence, but an extra sharp wrench from the rough hands of her +tormentor made her cry out in pain. Her cry roused her husband, and he +immediately made a dash for the robber, who calmly turned the revolver +at the man’s head and shot him dead. Thus the bride of only a few +days’ duration was left a widow. Another day two women belonging +to one of the leading Christian families were returning from an early +service at their church, when they were attacked by a Moslem man, who +tore the gold coins from their heads and necks. The terrified women +could hardly reach their own homes, so stunned were they by the harsh +treatment of the robbers. The strange sequel to this story is, that +after a few days a parcel arrived at the house to which the women +belonged, which on being opened was found to contain all the gold which +had been wrested from them a few days before. Another lady in Mosul, +also a Christian, was the proud possessor of a most valuable set of +jewels. One day everything disappeared. She neither saw nor heard a +robber, but evidently one must have gained admission to the house, for +all her <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb306" href="#pb306" name= +"pb306">306</a>]</span>jewels were taken; and to this day she has never +had a clue as to their fate.</p> +<p>I often say to the women in Mosul who sometimes commiserate me on +having no gold: “Which is better—to have gold for the +robbers to get, or to have none and be able to go to rest with a quiet +mind?” I think most of them would prefer to have the gold and +risk the rest, so devoted are they to it and all jewellery. Every +woman, except the very poor, has on her marriage, gold coins for her +head, gold chains for her neck, a golden band for her waist, gold +bracelets for the arms, and the same for her ankles. Is it any wonder +that these form attractions which prove too strong for the average +robber to resist? I was once visiting at the house of a poor Jewess. +She was telling me how poor she was, as her “man” was ill +and could not work; but I said, “I expect you have gold?” +“Oh yes, of course,” was the answer; and going to a +cupboard she pulled out a secret drawer and showed me her store of gold +coins and bangles, valued at about £200. Before putting away her +“gods,” she asked me if I thought her hiding-place was +secure enough against the invasion of robbers. These people certainly +lay up for themselves treasures where thieves break through and steal, +the result being that when their “treasures” are taken they +are left disconsolate. Having nothing better to live for, are they not +worthy of our love and pity? <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb307" href= +"#pb307" name="pb307">307</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch2.12" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter XII</h2> +<h2 class="main">The Pleasures of Desert Travelling</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Desert blossoms as a rose—Flowers of the +desert—Arabs, their occupation and women—Arab +dancing—Robbers of the desert—An army of ten +thousand—Five hundred armed men—False alarms—Lost in +the desert—Delights and disturbances of travelling.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<div class="lg"> +<p class="line">“Truth is truth: too true it was,</p> +<p class="line">Gold! She hoarded and hugged it first,</p> +<p class="line">Longed for it, leaned o’er it, loved +it—</p> +<p class="line xd20e1108">Alas!</p> +<p class="line">Till the humour grew to a head and burst,</p> +<p class="line">And she cried at the final pass.</p> +</div> +<div class="lg"> +<p class="line">Talk not of God, my heart is stone!</p> +<p class="line">Nor lover nor friend—be gold for both!</p> +<p class="line">Gold I lack, and, my all, my own....”</p> +</div> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">R. Browning.</span></p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“O that the desert were my +dwelling-place.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Byron.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">It can with all truth be said that in springtime the +Desert of Mesopotamia blossoms as a rose. Two years ago we travelled +from Mosul to Aleppo by the northern route <i>viâ</i> Mardin, +Diabekir, and Orfa. We left Mosul about the 20th June, just as the +harvest had all been gathered in and the earth had once more resumed +its parched-up appearance for another summer. No sooner had we left the +neighbourhood of Mosul behind us than we were surrounded again on all +sides by fields of waving corn, in many instances still green, and this +continued <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb308" href="#pb308" name= +"pb308">308</a>]</span>the whole way to Aleppo; the harvest becoming +later as we travelled north. Where the land was not cultivated the wild +flowers were a perfect delight, and the desert air was filled with +their sweetness. In one place the effect of these flowers was +peculiarly enchanting. As far as the eye could see, the fields were +covered with hollyhocks of all hues, the different shades being grouped +together; thus a vast expanse of red hollyhocks would be succeeded by a +field of white ones, these again changing to a delightful mauve. I have +never anywhere seen such a wealth of wild flowers as we saw in that +so-called desert journey from Mosul to Mardin. To try to enumerate the +countless tiny flowers of the desert would be futile; they go very near +to rival in number and beauty the wild flowers of Palestine. Once we +were sitting in a field waiting for our caravan, and my husband said he +would see how many different kinds of flowers he could pick without +moving. In a minute or two he had gathered over a dozen, all within +arm’s reach. In that field alone there must have been at least a +hundred varieties of flowers.</p> +<p>As we approached Aleppo the flowers became scarcer, and fruit-trees +took their place. One day I was riding on the top of the pack mule, +when suddenly the animal (who had only one eye) stumbled, and I was +deposited on the ground before I realised what had happened. Feeling +rather hot and bruised, I looked about for a place to rest in. +Fortunately we were near an orchard, so finding a delightfully shady +tree, we decided to make this our lunching-ground. As we sat and rested +ripe apricots fell from the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb309" href= +"#pb309" name="pb309">309</a>]</span>tree into our laps. The owner of +the orchard informed us we could eat as many as we liked—for a +consideration!</p> +<p>But desert travelling is not all as pleasant as this. Were we to +retrace our steps a month or two later we should see no beautiful +flowers or waving corn-fields, nothing but burnt-up desert land.</p> +<p>The direct route from Mosul to Aleppo lies through land almost +entirely desert. For two whole days nothing is to be seen save an +occasional Arab encampment, and sometimes not even that.</p> +<p>The Arabs of Mesopotamia belong as a rule to the great Shammar +tribe. They wander up and down the country living in black tents made +from camel or goats’ hair. When wishing to seek pastures new they +migrate from one place to another with all their flocks and herds, the +tending of which forms one of their chief occupations. The Arab women +are most industrious: in addition to the ordinary cares of the family, +they fetch the water, carrying it home from the well or river in large +jars balanced on their heads; they drive the flocks to pasture, milking +them night and morning; they spin the wool of the sheep and goat, and +weave it into cloth for the men’s garments or for the tent +canvas. In fact, there is hardly anything the Arab woman does not do, +while her lord and master passes the time in scouring the country on +horseback, or settling quarrels with his neighbours. Arabs of different +tribes are very quick to go to war against each other, and will fight +for the merest trifle, though blood is rarely shed, the consequences of +a blood feud being so dreaded. With the Arab it must be blood for +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb310" href="#pb310" name= +"pb310">310</a>]</span>blood, and once blood has been shed, there can +be no rest till vengeance has been satisfied.</p> +<p>The Arabs are very proud of their horses, as they have every reason +to be, a true Arab horse being a lovely creature. As a rule they do not +shoe their horses at all.</p> +<p>One day two men from an encampment near Mosul were walking along +when they saw something on the road which attracted their attention. +Picking it up, they examined it very carefully, turned it over and +over, but could not come to any satisfactory conclusion regarding it. +The object under discussion was a horseshoe, but as neither of them had +ever seen such a thing before they could not guess its use. After +discussing it gravely for some time one Arab said to the other, +“Of course I know what it is. This is an old moon which has +fallen down from heaven!”</p> +<p>The Arabs are very hospitable people, and were often profuse in +their invitations for us to eat with them. I have once or twice joined +the women in sitting round a big cauldron full of “borghol” +(crushed corn boiled with plenty of fat) and dipping with them into the +one dish, and thoroughly enjoyed it. When you have a desert appetite it +is possible to enjoy anything. Once my husband and I accepted an +invitation to a meal with an Arab, and were regaled with chicken boiled +with a green vegetable called “<span lang= +"fa-latn">barmiya</span>,” and pillau. Our host would not eat +with us, but employed himself brushing the flies away from the food as +we ate.</p> +<p>The Arab dance is a very weird performance to watch. The men and +women all join hands, and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb311" href= +"#pb311" name="pb311">311</a>]</span>shuffle with their feet, at the +same time working every muscle of the body in a most grotesque fashion. +As they warm to the dance they get very much excited, yelling and +shouting in a frantic manner.</p> +<p>These Arabs are the dreaded robbers of the desert, and our guard +always impressed upon us, when travelling, what a dangerous set of +people they were. Every speck on the horizon is magnified into a +probable Arab; and if by chance one is met in the desert, the +excitement is great. On one occasion we were riding in a very lonely +spot when suddenly an Arab horseman rode into view. Immediately our +gallant guard swooped down upon the unfortunate man, asking him what he +meant by spying upon our movements, for they did not think it possible +that he would be there alone if it were not for that object. The Arab +assured us he had no such intentions, but had only come to meet a +friend whom he believed to be in our caravan. However, our escort would +not credit his story, so took him prisoner till we had safely passed +the dangerous part, and then allowed him to return. We could not help +wondering whether, if there had been twenty Arabs instead of one, our +guard would have been so brave.</p> +<p>Another time we were crossing a huge track of waterless desert, said +to be infested with marauding Arab tribes, when suddenly we saw the +escort becoming highly excited, waving their guns about, preparatory to +galloping off. Before we had time to ask what it was all about they +were off. We were then driving in a carriage, so making inquiries +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb312" href="#pb312" name= +"pb312">312</a>]</span>from our driver were assured it was nothing, +only he pointed ominously to a long black line seen far away in the +distance. Our servant assured us this was the shadow of the mountain, +but this was only said to reassure us in case we felt alarmed.</p> +<p>The “black line” appeared to be steadily advancing, +every moment becoming more and more like a huge army of mounted men +marching straight for us. Our driver, thinking, no doubt, of the +probable capture of his horses by the robbers, lashed up the poor +beasts into a gallop, urging them on ever faster and faster till they +could go no quicker. Our servant, who was sitting on the box-seat, made +valiant attempts to draw off our thoughts from the impending danger, as +he thought the “khatoun” would be much frightened. But the +“khatoun” was not to be blindfolded, and much preferred to +see and know what was going on. By this time the “army” had +assumed enormous proportions, for as each section appeared in sight, +another one loomed behind, away in the distance. Already in my mind I +resignedly (?) bade farewell to all the contents of our boxes, as I +pictured the Arabs ruthlessly breaking them open and spreading the +contents on the ground for inspection and division. We soon saw that we +must give up the race, for every moment brought us nearer our dreaded +enemies; till just as we reached the top of a small rise in the ground +we came face to face with our “army of soldiers.” +“Alhamd’llillah!” they were nothing more alarming +than a huge cavalcade of about 10,000 camels being taken to water in +companies of 500, each company being in charge of a drover, the order +and regularity with which they <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb313" +href="#pb313" name="pb313">313</a>]</span>walked giving the impression +that they were regiments of mounted soldiers. I fancy the alarm of the +guards and driver was only assumed for our benefit, for on our return +journey they began the same story at the identical spot, and there +again, sure enough, was the steady advancing line; but this time we +were wiser, and could laugh at our would-be alarmists.</p> +<p>Another time we had just crossed a river at the end of a long +day’s march, and were enjoying a well-earned rest and cup of tea, +when our escort came up in great distress of mind to say that he had +just heard that a band of 500 armed men had that morning crossed the +river with the avowed intention of lying in wait for the Feringhi +caravan and attacking it. We were getting used to alarms of this kind, +and at first only laughed at their anxious faces; but they were so +persistent in their entreaties that we should not remain on that side +of the river, that we began to think that perhaps, after all, +<i>this</i> time they might have foundation for their fears. So we made +a compromise to the effect that, if they wished, we would pack up and +move on to some village, although we were very tired. So with this they +had to be content, and it was arranged that at midnight we were to +start. However, just before turning in for a short rest, the guard +again made their appearance, this time to say they had considered that +it would not be at all safe to travel by night, and that we had better +wait till daylight, adding in the usual way: “But do not be +afraid; we will watch all night long.” So we all retired very +thankfully to rest. It was a very hot night, and being unable to sleep +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb314" href="#pb314" name= +"pb314">314</a>]</span>I went outside the tent door for a little air, +and found our gallant guard all fast asleep and snoring. In the morning +they assured us that they had never closed their eyes all night, but +had sat up watching for robbers!!</p> +<p>We had experienced once in Persia the pleasant sensation of being +lost when alone in the desert. In the Turkish-Arabian desert we, in +company with the whole caravan, were once lost, and spent many weary +hours wandering about seeking for our right road in vain. It was a day +or two after leaving Diabekir; our escort, reduced to one soldier as +the road was considered fairly safe, was quite sure he knew the way. +Our muleteer and servants had never travelled that road before, so we +were completely in the hands of one man; but as he seemed quite sure, +we did not trouble about it, knowing that these men are always on the +road acting as escort. But we soon found that we were trusting to a +broken reed, so far as his knowledge as a guide was concerned. We +started one day on what we supposed to be a short stage, but to our +surprise it seemed to lengthen out into a longer one than usual, till +we began to despair of ever reaching the end. At last, when sunset was +a thing of the past, we began to suspect that our guide was not too +sure of his where-abouts; and this suspicion soon changed to certainty +when we suddenly found ourselves on the top of a steep bank, down which +it was impossible for the animals to climb. Our clever guide then +confessed that he did not know where we were.</p> +<p>It was now quite dark, and we had been riding since early morning, +so felt pretty tired; but our <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb315" +href="#pb315" name="pb315">315</a>]</span>muleteer said it was quite +out of the question to stay where we were, as there was no water for +the animals, and the hills with which we were surrounded were known to +be full of robbers. So we wandered on and on and <i>on</i>, listening +in vain for some sound of habitation and hearing none, longing even to +hear the joyful sound of the barking of dogs or croaking of frogs, +telling of life and water; but our longings were not to be realised +that night. At last, about ten o’clock, we said we could not +possibly go any further; so, amidst much discontent and fear on the +part of the men, we dismounted and declared our intention of staying +where we were till dawn. The animals were all tethered, and we all sat +round in a circle, so that if the robbers came we should be able to +show a good front. The men appeared to be quite frightened, and +declared they would not sleep, but each would take his turn at +watching. We were too sleepy to care much whether the robbers came or +not, so wrapping ourselves in blankets we were soon fast asleep. +Awaking about half-an-hour later, I looked out to see how the +“watchers” were getting on, and saw that they were all fast +asleep, covered up in their <i>abas</i> or long cloaks. I soon followed +their example and slept till morning, no robbers having come in the +night to disturb our slumbers. We discovered that we had wandered a +good distance out of our way, but found the right path soon after nine +o’clock, and very thankful we all were to obtain water to +drink—the animals more so than any of us, perhaps.</p> +<p>Travelling in the desert is very pleasant if the stage is not a very +long one. To start about sunrise <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb316" +href="#pb316" name="pb316">316</a>]</span>or a little after, ride three +or four hours, then have a lunch of bread and melons, and finish up +with another three hours’ ride, makes a very pleasant picnic; but +when the stage takes twelve or thirteen hours to do, the pleasure +becomes a burden. At the end of a short stage it is delightful to sit +outside our tent and enjoy the cool breeze of the desert, and watch the +stars peeping out one after the other. Sometimes, however, the weather +is not such as to allow of this form of enjoyment. When we were coming +home in 1907, in crossing the desert we came in for some tremendously +heavy thunderstorms. One night we were simultaneously awakened by a +tremendous gust of wind which threatened to bring down the tent. We +sprang up and clung to the poles; but thinking the whole structure was +bound to fall, and preferring to be outside, I forsook my pole to which +I had been clinging, and rushed out into the pouring rain. My husband +went to call some of the men, and found them all happily asleep in the +carriage: with great difficulty he awoke them, and together they made +secure all the tent-pegs. By this time the great fury of the storm was +over, and we crept inside the tent, wet, cold, and miserable. Wonderful +to say, neither of us caught cold after our adventure. The next morning +we spread all our wet bedding, &c., in the sun to dry; and just as +it was nearly ready, down came another storm and soaked everything +again. Such are some of the joys of travelling in the desert. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb317" href="#pb317" name= +"pb317">317</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch2.13" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Chapter XIII</h2> +<h2 class="main">Pioneer Medical Mission Work in Mosul +(Nineveh)<a class="noteref" id="xd20e3843src" href="#xd20e3843" name= +"xd20e3843src">1</a></h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Winning the confidence of the people—Native +surgery—Difficulties to be overcome—Backward +patients—Encouraging work—Prevalent +diseases—Lunatics—Possible future of Mesopotamia.</p> +</div> +<div class="epigraph"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line xd20e2463">”... My soul is full</p> +<p class="line">Of pity for the sickness of this world;</p> +<p class="line">Which I will heal, if healing may be found!”</p> +</div> +<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Sir E. Arnold.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">It is often thought that in the East, whenever an +English doctor arrives at a city, patients throng to him from all +quarters. This is only partially true, at least in the near East. If +medicine and attendance are granted free indiscriminately, doubtless at +first crowds will attend the out-patient department, many coming merely +out of curiosity. If good work is to be done, it is better to make some +charge, however small, exempting only the very poor. This principle +has, I believe, been adopted by all our medical missionaries, and fees +thus earned go to help in making the work self-supporting.</p> +<p>The European doctor in Persia or Turkey has first to win the +confidence of the people, and this is sometimes no easy matter. On our +arrival in Mosul we rented a house in the centre of the city, which had +two compounds. We lived in the inner compound, and made the outer into +a dispensary and small hospital. At first everything looked rather +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb318" href="#pb318" name= +"pb318">318</a>]</span>hopeless, the house being an old one and nearly +in ruins. However, we made a big stable into a waiting-room for the +patients; other rooms were patched up and transformed into +consulting-room, dispensary, operating theatre, and wards, all of a +most primitive kind. In this great city of 60,000 to 80,000 people our +staff consisted of my wife and me and two native assistants, who had +been trained in our Baghdad Medical Mission.</p> +<p>There was no lack of physicians in the city, but excluding two or +three Turkish army doctors, and one or two others with Constantinople +diplomas, the rest were quacks of the most pronounced type. Nearly +every old lady in the city thinks herself competent to treat diseases +of the eye, the barbers are the surgeons, bone-setters abound, +hereditary physicians are by no means scarce. These latter inherit +“herbal prescriptions” from their forefathers, and though +now forbidden to practise by the Turkish Government, yet contrive to +visit many houses as a “friend” after dark, and earn enough +for a livelihood. The Dominicans (who have a large Mission in Mosul) +also give away many medicines, and have now a qualified native doctor. +But though there is much “physicking” in Mosul, but little +surgery is done, and that gives the opportunity for the European doctor +to step in. Arab surgery is of the crudest description. Let one sample +suffice. A poor Arab woman was brought to the dispensary, soon after we +started work, by her father. She complained of not being able to +breathe through her nose. On examining her throat I found that the +upper air passage had become shut off from the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb319" href="#pb319" name="pb319">319</a>]</span>back +of the throat as a result of old inflammation. Upon further inquiry I +elicited the following history. Two years before, the patient had +developed a bad sore throat. Her father took her to the native surgeon, +who had the poor woman’s mouth held forcibly open, while he +proceeded to cure the sore throat by rubbing it with a red-hot +flattened piece of iron!</p> +<p>Gradually we commenced to win the confidence of the people: they +came in ever-increasing numbers to the dispensary. Gathered together in +the waiting-room would be a crowd composed of many different +nationalities—Christians, Moslems, Jews, Kurds from the +mountains, Bedouins from the desert, Yezidees (the so-called +devil-worshippers), a motley throng, listening quietly and without +interruption to the reading and exposition of the Gospel, ere passing +one by one through the doctor’s consulting-room, for the +treatment of their multitudinous diseases. The medical missionary is +called upon to do his best to cure every ailment; he must be ready to +accept heavy responsibilities, there are no “specialists” +to consult, often he is without the help of any trained nurse, and in +pioneer work, at least, he has no properly equipped hospital, and must +perforce perform most serious operations under the worst possible +conditions. In addition to all this, in lands under Mohammedan rule +there is always the risk of a riot if a patient should die in a +Christian hospital, especially on the operating table. Yet despite all +these drawbacks, it is a grand life, revealing to a man his own utter +weakness, and making him rely more and more upon his God.</p> +<p>Soon we were able to commence admitting in-patients, being forced to +limit admission to surgical <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb320" href= +"#pb320" name="pb320">320</a>]</span>cases. At first there was +considerable difficulty in getting the patients to come on the actual +day fixed for the operation; each one was anxious for his neighbour to +be the first. Finally I was compelled to threaten to put a black mark +against the name of any patient who had agreed to come in for operation +and then failed to put in an appearance, adding that <i>that</i> +patient would have to wait a long time before having a chance offered a +second time. This had the desired effect, a woman needing a small +eyelid operation being the first to brave the terrors of the Feringhi +hospital.</p> +<p>In due course, instruments and dressings all having been prepared, +the patient, in a condition of mortal terror, was led into the +operating room, and induced to lie on the table. But alas, her fears +gained the mastery, and she instantly jumped up, ran out of the room, +and disappeared from the dispensary. This was not encouraging, but a +few days later a little Jew boy suffering from vesical stone (a very +common disease in Mosul, especially amongst children) was brought to +the hospital by his father. We persuaded him to enter the hospital with +his boy, and thus finally gained our first in-patient. The stone having +been removed, and the boy making a good recovery, we had no further +difficulty in getting in-patients. Our six wooden beds soon all had +occupants, then we added six more beds; finally, obtaining a +neighbouring house for our own residence, we made our old house (the +inner compound) into a small hospital for women and children. Thus we +were able to accommodate twenty-four patients, and as each had at least +one <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb321" href="#pb321" name= +"pb321">321</a>]</span>friend, we often had over fifty people resident +on the premises. It is this in-patient work that gives the most +encouraging opportunities to the medical missionary. There in his +little hospital he has patients of all creeds, lying side by side; many +have been relieved or cured by operation, and will listen gratefully to +all the teaching they can get. Each patient before the operation hears +the doctor pray a short prayer, asking God to bless the operation and +cause it to be successful. Day after day, week after week, he receives +instruction, and gains an entirely new idea of what Christianity really +is, and when he leaves the mission hospital and returns to his home, +whether in the city or in a distant mountain village, all his old +bitter opposition to Christianity has disappeared, and often he will +send other patients for treatment to the English mission. The following +statistics, for two years only, may prove interesting, as showing the +far-reaching influence of even a badly equipped, undermanned medical +mission:—</p> +<div class="table"> +<table class="xd20e3882" width="100%"> +<tr> +<td colspan="3">Total attendance of out-patients</td> +<td class="xd20e3886">24,519</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td rowspan="2" class="xd20e3889">Operations performed</td> +<td rowspan="2" class="xd20e3891"><img src="images/bracket-left.gif" +alt="" width="6" height="33"></td> +<td>197 Major</td> +<td class="xd20e3886">569</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>372 Minor</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3">Total number of in-patients</td> +<td class="xd20e3886">288</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3">Number of villages and towns, <i>excluding</i> Mosul, +from which patients have come to the dispensary</td> +<td class="xd20e3886">348</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> +<p>This last item is especially interesting; excluding Mosul (from +which naturally most of our patients are drawn), 348 <i>different</i> +towns and villages (some as many as ten days’ journey) have sent +us patients, and yet the work is barely started! <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb322" href="#pb322" name="pb322">322</a>]</span></p> +<p>To illustrate the effect of a medical mission in disarming +opposition, I may add that, in 1907, when it was feared that, owing to +the need for retrenchment, the Society would have to close the work in +Mosul, a petition, signed by most of the prominent Mohammedan +residents, including the chief mullahs, was brought to me, asking that +I would remit it at once to the Society. It was a request that the +Medical Mission should not be withdrawn, as it had been such a boon to +the inhabitants of the city. In a very wonderful manner God heard and +answered our prayers, and the Mission is not to be closed, but rather +it is hoped to equip it more thoroughly.</p> +<p>The operations most frequently called for in Mosul are those for +“cataract” and vesical stone, but patients come with many +other diseases, both surgical and medical. The city is full of +phthisis; the insanitary conditions under which the vast majority of +the inhabitants live favour its rapid dissemination. Smallpox and +typhoid fever are very common, and once these diseases have been +definitely diagnosed, neither the patient nor his friends will permit +any further medical treatment. For the latter disease the patient is +kept on fairly strict diet until he “perspires.” This to +the native mind denotes the end of all possible danger, so he is then +pressed to eat anything and everything, with disastrous results. +Malaria, dysentery, hepatic abscesses are also rife; there have also +been epidemics of cholera and plague, but not of late years. Once the +projected Baghdad Railway (which will pass through Mosul) is an +accomplished fact, we may expect the <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb323" href="#pb323" name="pb323">323</a>]</span>importation of plague +from the south, unless the most stringent precautions are taken.</p> +<p>The Bedouin Arab can rarely be persuaded to stop in the city; after +the freedom of life in the desert, he feels stifled within the four +walls of a house. Ere leaving Mosul I had a curious demonstration of +this fact. An old blind Arab was brought to me by his son, suffering +from double cataract. I told him that by means of a simple operation he +might once again be able to see, but that he would have to stay in the +hospital for a few days. He indignantly refused, saying he would rather +remain blind the rest of his life than sleep beneath a roof. In vain +did his son plead with him, and finding that I would not operate at +once and allow him to be treated as an out-patient, the old man went +sorrowfully away.</p> +<p>Every in-patient admitted had to bring a friend to help to nurse +him, as we had no proper hospital equipment and no trained nurse. Only +twice in the three years did I break this rule, both times with +disastrous results. The first was a poor old man from a village some +days’ journey from Mosul. He was poor and friendless, also blind +with “cataract”; reluctantly I allowed myself to be +influenced by his pathetic pleadings, and admitted him without any one +to look after him. Prior to his admission he had been bitten on the +calf of one leg by a dog, and complaining of pain from this wound, we +dressed it with a simple boracic fomentation. Unfortunately this +dressing was forgotten and left on the leg. The eye was in due course +operated upon successfully, and the patient received the usual strict +injunction <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb324" href="#pb324" name= +"pb324">324</a>]</span>to lie still for twenty-four hours. At the first +dressing everything seemed all right; two days later I found to my +sorrow that the eye had suppurated, and that there was no hope of +saving the vision. The strictest inquiry was at once instituted, but +for some time we could discover no clue as to how the eye had become +infected; then the truth came out. It appeared that the second night +after the operation the old man commenced to feel a slight pricking +pain in the eye that had been operated upon (not an uncommon symptom +after “cataract” extraction, with no bad significance as a +rule). The pain seemed similar to that which he had felt in his leg, +which had been relieved by the application of the boracic fomentation. +The patient reasoned thus with himself: “It is night time, I had +better not call for the doctor; but the medicine on my eye is evidently +doing no good, while that put on my leg cured a similar pain to this at +once, so I had better take off this bandage from my eye and replace it +with the one on my leg”! This he had proceeded to do, and +consequently lost his newly acquired sight.</p> +<p>The other case was somewhat similar, but the patient was a fanatical +Moslem priest, whom I afterwards found out was a well-known +“majnoon” (madman). He also had been admitted alone, and we +had but little trouble with him until after the operation (also for +“cataract”) had been performed. A few hours later my +assistant came running to me, and said: “Doctor, that old +cataract patient declares that he must and <i>he will</i> say his +prayers. We have done our best to prevent him, but in vain.” Now +a Mohammedan, before he prays, performs certain <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb325" href="#pb325" name= +"pb325">325</a>]</span>ablutions, which include washing his hands and +face; so I at once ran up to the ward, but, alas! we arrived too late. +The old priest had taken off his bandage, washed his face and hands, +said his prayers, and was quite unable to understand why the Hakim +Sahib should be angry! We gave the poor old man some lotion and a shade +for his eye, and sent him back to his home (as he lived in Mosul), +refusing to accept any further responsibility. Some weeks later my +assistant met the old priest in the bazaar, quite pleased with himself, +for he had actually obtained sufficient sight to find his way about +alone.</p> +<p>Fortunately the majority of the patients are more reasonable, and +quickly learn to submit more or less to “hospital +regulations.” Children sometimes proved troublesome, especially +boys, when accompanied by a crowd of relations. I remember one morning, +when making my daily round, coming across a group of people surrounding +a little boy six years of age. He had been ordered a dose of castor +oil, and had made up his obstinate little mind that he would <i>not</i> +take the nasty stuff. Being a boy, and only son and heir, he had been +spoilt most royally. Father, mother, aunt, grandmother, and friends +each in turn tried persuasion, varied by gentle threats, all in vain. +He beat and (I am sorry to say) cursed the women, his mother included, +and sullenly refused to accept the medicine from his father, despite +sundry promises of sweets, money, &c.</p> +<p>After watching the scene with some amusement I stepped forward, took +the cup containing the obnoxious castor oil, and forcibly administered +the dose without regarding the boy’s shrieks and tears. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb326" href="#pb326" name= +"pb326">326</a>]</span>Then I read the parents a little lecture upon +the evil result of spoiling their children, which I fear had but scant +result.</p> +<p>Often do I feel ashamed as I note how patiently pain and diseases +are borne by these poor people. It is always “the will of +God,” and therefore there is no use complaining, and little use +rebelling. Time after time have I had to gently break the news to some +poor patient, who may have come long distances to see the English +doctor, that his blindness could not be cured by operation, being +caused by what is popularly known as black cataract (glaucoma). A few +(usually women) would go away weeping, but the vast majority both of +men and women would quietly respond, “Alhamd’llillah” +(Praise be to God), with but little sign of emotion.</p> +<p>So far as I know there is but one asylum for cases of mental +diseases in the whole of the Turkish Empire, and that one is at +Asfariyeh, near Beyrout, and belongs to an English society. The usual +method of dealing with lunatics in Mosul is, if they are apparently +harmless, that they are allowed to wander about freely and treated +kindly; but once they develop symptoms of mania they are treated as +wild beasts, put into a dark room, and chained to a wall. But we +possess a specialist in “mental diseases” in Mosul, +belonging to an old Mohammedan family, who has a great reputation for +the treatment of “lunatics.” In the courtyard of his house +he has had dug several deep wells, and beside each well is placed a +large tub, having a hole in the bottom which communicates with the +well. The poor madman is made to work from sunrise to sunset, +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb327" href="#pb327" name= +"pb327">327</a>]</span>drawing water from the well and pouring it into +the perforated tub, being told that he may leave off <i>when</i> he has +filled the tub. If he refuses to work, he is unmercifully beaten. +Several cures are said to have resulted from this treatment.</p> +<p>There is nothing so potent as the in-patient work of a hospital in +overcoming opposition. Amongst our numerous “cataract” +patients was an Arab from Singar (a mountainous district near Mosul). +He came armed with a perfectly unnecessary introduction, in the shape +of a letter from one of the chief Mohammedans in the city. After he had +regained his sight and had left the hospital, ere returning to his +mountain home he went to this “big” Moslem to thank him. He +found himself the centre of a large and curious throng, who questioned +him severely upon his experiences in the “Christian” +hospital. Some of the more fanatical (it was in the early days of the +Mission) did not scruple to speak against the hospital and the English +hakim; but, like the man in St. John’s Gospel, this Arab was not +afraid to testify of what had been done for him, “for,” +said he, “you can say what you like—one thing I know, +before I was blind, now I can see.”</p> +<p>But enough—I fear to tire my readers; but ere closing I would +like just to refer to the possible future of Mesopotamia. One thing is +certain, a few years more will exhibit great changes. I have already +referred to the Baghdad Railway. As I write it is rumoured that the +German Government have at last obtained a further concession from the +Sultan of Turkey, which will allow them to continue the line another +five hundred miles, piercing Mount <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb328" +href="#pb328" name="pb328">328</a>]</span>Taurus and reaching near to +the city of Mardin (some ten days’ journey north of Mosul). When +this is accomplished the rest of the work is quite simple. The line +from Mardin to Baghdad (passing through Mosul) should present no +difficulties, and Mosul (with the ruins of Nineveh) will become easy of +access from Europe.</p> +<p>In the next place there is the question of the navigation of the +Tigris. Ere long there is no doubt that boats will be allowed to come +up the river from Baghdad to Mosul, and possibly on up to Diabekir +(300–400 miles north of Mosul). This will mean an enormous +increase in trade, both in imports and exports.</p> +<p>Finally, there is that fascinating problem of the irrigation of the +Mesopotamian desert. The remains of old canals are still visible, and +it needs nothing but an energetic government willing to spend a +comparatively small sum, plus the services of a capable engineer, to +transform the whole of that desert between the two great rivers +Euphrates and Tigris into a veritable Garden of Eden, even as it must +have been in the days of old, when huge armies were able to find +sufficient provender for man and beast throughout the whole of that +vast region. The “finale” of that great province, +containing the ruins of so many ancient cities, has not yet been +written; and there are many signs which tend to suggest to the +thoughtful observer that, ere another century has passed, Mesopotamia +may once again take its place, and that no mean position, amongst the +kingdoms of the earth! <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb329" href= +"#pb329" name="pb329">329</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e3843" href="#xd20e3843src" name="xd20e3843">1</a></span> By Dr. +A. Hume-Griffith.</p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="back"> +<div class="div1 index"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Index</h2> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">A</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Abdul Fateh, our <i lang="fa-latn">pishkhedmat</i>, +<a href="#pb78" class="pageref">78</a></p> +<p>Aganoor, Dr., <a href="#pb146" class="pageref">146</a></p> +<p>Agha Mohammed Khan, Kerman sacked by, <a href="#pb31" class= +"pageref">31</a></p> +<p>Alexander marched through Kerman, <a href="#pb31" class= +"pageref">31</a></p> +<p>Ali, “The Lion of God,” <a href="#pb19" class= +"pageref">19</a></p> +<p>Aliabâd, the village of, <a href="#pb66" class= +"pageref">66</a></p> +<p>American mission, the, <a href="#pb27" class="pageref">27</a></p> +<p>Amputation, how regarded, <a href="#pb142" class= +"pageref">142</a></p> +<p>Anderoon, the, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a>, <a href= +"#pb87" class="pageref">87</a>;<br> +of the Zil-es-Sultan, <a href="#pb93" class="pageref">93</a></p> +<p>Animals, cruelty to, <a href="#pb137" class="pageref">137</a></p> +<p>Anjiman, the, a Parsee governing body, <a href="#pb129" class= +"pageref">129</a></p> +<p>Ants, a pest of white, <a href="#pb73" class="pageref">73</a>;<br> +their ravages, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a></p> +<p>Arab dancing, a weird performance, <a href="#pb310" class= +"pageref">310</a></p> +<p>—— women, their love of freedom, <a href="#pb191" class= +"pageref">191</a>;<br> +industry of, <a href="#pb309" class="pageref">309</a></p> +<p>Arabs of Mesopotamia, the, <a href="#pb309" class= +"pageref">309</a>;<br> +hospitality of, <a href="#pb310" class="pageref">310</a>;<br> +dancing, <a href="#pb311" class="pageref">311</a></p> +<p>—— of Mosul, the, <a href="#pb190" class= +"pageref">190</a></p> +<p>Arak, a favourite drink, <a href="#pb269" class= +"pageref">269</a></p> +<p>“Arg,” the Governor’s residence, <a href="#pb110" +class="pageref">110</a></p> +<p>Ark, remains of the, <a href="#pb177" class="pageref">177</a></p> +<p>Armenians, their virtues and vices, <a href="#pb28" class= +"pageref">28</a></p> +<p>Asshur, remains of, <a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a></p> +<p>“At Home,” our, <a href="#pb85" class= +"pageref">85</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">B</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Báb, the, founder of Babism, <a href="#pb116" +class="pageref">116</a>;<br> +imprisonment, <a href="#pb117" class="pageref">117</a>;<br> +execution, <a href="#pb118" class="pageref">118</a></p> +<p>Babism, its origin and founder, <a href="#pb116" class= +"pageref">116</a></p> +<p><i lang="fa-latn">Bâd geers</i>, or +“wind-catchers,” in Yezd, <a href="#pb54" class= +"pageref">54</a></p> +<p>Baghdad railway, the, <a href="#pb184" class="pageref">184</a>;<br> +its importance to Mosul, <a href="#pb328" class="pageref">328</a></p> +<p>Bagi, our servant, <a href="#pb69" class="pageref">69</a>, <a href= +"#pb79" class="pageref">79</a>, <a href="#pb85" class= +"pageref">85</a></p> +<p>Baradæus, Jacob, a Syrian reformer, <a href="#pb190" class= +"pageref">190</a></p> +<p>Bathing in the Tigris, <a href="#pb203" class="pageref">203</a></p> +<p>Bazaar, an exciting experience in the Kerman, <a href="#pb80" class= +"pageref">80</a></p> +<p>Beauty specialists, Persian women as, <a href="#pb104" class= +"pageref">104</a></p> +<p>Bedouin, the, as an in-patient, <a href="#pb323" class= +"pageref">323</a></p> +<p>Bedouins, the, <a href="#pb191" class="pageref">191</a></p> +<p>Beggars, a saying among, <a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a></p> +<p>Blackett, Mr. and Mrs., <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a></p> +<p>Blackett’s, Mr., valuable library and the white ants, <a href= +"#pb75" class="pageref">75</a></p> +<p>Boy’s birth, celebrations at a, <a href="#pb211" class= +"pageref">211</a>;<br> +education, <a href="#pb213" class="pageref">213</a></p> +<p>Brass-work of Isphahan, the, <a href="#pb47" class= +"pageref">47</a></p> +<p>Bread-making, <a href="#pb255" class="pageref">255</a></p> +<p>Brick-making, <a href="#pb73" class="pageref">73</a></p> +<p>Brick pillars for capital punishment, <a href="#pb138" class= +"pageref">138</a></p> +<p>Bride, a Persian, <a href="#pb101" class="pageref">101</a> +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb330" href="#pb330" name= +"pb330">330</a>]</span></p> +<p>Bridge of boats at Mosul, <a href="#pb176" class= +"pageref">176</a></p> +<p>Burials, danger of hasty, <a href="#pb250" class= +"pageref">250</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">C</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Calico printing at Isphahan, <a href="#pb47" class= +"pageref">47</a></p> +<p>Caravanserais, <a href="#pb132" class="pageref">132</a></p> +<p>Carless, Mr., death of, <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a></p> +<p>Carpet, how to improve, <a href="#pb41" class="pageref">41</a>;<br> +how to tell a good one, <a href="#pb42" class="pageref">42</a>;<br> +prices, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a>;<br> +Kurdistan, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a></p> +<p>Carpet manufactories, <a href="#pb40" class="pageref">40</a></p> +<p>Carr, Dr., <a href="#pb150" class="pageref">150</a></p> +<p>Carriages, scarcity of, <a href="#pb26" class="pageref">26</a></p> +<p>Cataract among the Persians, <a href="#pb154" class= +"pageref">154</a></p> +<p>—— operations for, <a href="#pb322" class= +"pageref">322</a></p> +<p>—— patients, <a href="#pb168" class= +"pageref">168</a></p> +<p>Cats, Persia a land of, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a>;<br> +exportation of, <a href="#pb23" class="pageref">23</a></p> +<p>Cawals, or preachers of the Yezidees, <a href="#pb288" class= +"pageref">288</a></p> +<p>Cellars as dwelling-rooms in hot weather, <a href="#pb54" class= +"pageref">54</a></p> +<p>Census, taking a, at Mosul, <a href="#pb301" class= +"pageref">301</a></p> +<p>Centipede, the girl and the imaginary, <a href="#pb275" class= +"pageref">275</a></p> +<p>Chaldeans in Mosul, the, <a href="#pb188" class= +"pageref">188</a></p> +<p><i lang="fa-latn">Chappa khanehs</i>, or post-houses, <a href= +"#pb133" class="pageref">133</a></p> +<p>Character of the Persian women, <a href="#pb84" class= +"pageref">84</a></p> +<p>—— of the Persians, <a href="#pb60" class= +"pageref">60</a>;<br> +their politeness, <a href="#pb81" class="pageref">81</a></p> +<p>Charamika, an ancient belief, <a href="#pb178" class= +"pageref">178</a></p> +<p>Chebar, or Khabour, River, <a href="#pb257" class= +"pageref">257</a></p> +<p>Children employed in carpet-weaving, <a href="#pb44" class= +"pageref">44</a></p> +<p>—— Persian, <a href="#pb91" class="pageref">91</a>;<br> +Parsee, <a href="#pb122" class="pageref">122</a></p> +<p>—— spoilt, <a href="#pb208" class="pageref">208</a>;<br> +of Mosul, <a href="#pb221" class="pageref">221</a>;<br> +early contamination, <a href="#pb222" class="pageref">222</a></p> +<p>“Chimneys” of Yezd, the, <a href="#pb54" class= +"pageref">54</a></p> +<p>Christians in Mosul, <a href="#pb188" class="pageref">188</a></p> +<p><i>Chuddar</i>, the, <a href="#pb98" class="pageref">98</a></p> +<p>Climate of Persia, the, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a>;<br> +of Teheran, <a href="#pb51" class="pageref">51</a>;<br> +of Isphahan, <a href="#pb52" class="pageref">52</a>;<br> +of Kerman, <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a></p> +<p>Coffee making and drinking, <a href="#pb254" class= +"pageref">254</a></p> +<p>Cook, our, <a href="#pb76" class="pageref">76</a></p> +<p>Cookery, Persian, <a href="#pb226" class= +"pageref">226</a>–7</p> +<p>Copper-work of Kashan, the, <a href="#pb47" class= +"pageref">47</a></p> +<p>Costume of Persian women, <a href="#pb95" class= +"pageref">95</a>;<br> +of Parsee women, <a href="#pb126" class="pageref">126</a></p> +<p>Cotton grown about Mosul, <a href="#pb182" class= +"pageref">182</a></p> +<p>Cultivation about Mosul, <a href="#pb182" class= +"pageref">182</a></p> +<p>“Cup of coffee,” the danger in a, <a href="#pb88" class= +"pageref">88</a></p> +<p>Cyrus returned from India by way of Kerman, <a href="#pb31" class= +"pageref">31</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">D</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"><i><span class="corr" id="xd20e4526" title= +"Source: Dakhnehs">Dakhmehs</span></i>, or Towers of Silence, <a href= +"#pb128" class="pageref">128</a></p> +<p>Demavend, Mount, <a href="#pb51" class="pageref">51</a></p> +<p>Dervish, the, <a href="#pb112" class="pageref">112</a></p> +<p>Desert, magnetic attractions of the, <a href="#pb130" class= +"pageref">130</a>;<br> +songs of, <a href="#pb131" class="pageref">131</a></p> +<p>—— travelling in the, its monotony, <a href="#pb294" +class="pageref">294</a>;<br> +a puppy, <a href="#pb294" class="pageref">294</a>;<br> +a kitten, <a href="#pb295" class="pageref">295</a>;<br> +a murder, <a href="#pb296" class="pageref">296</a>;<br> +thieves in the tent, <a href="#pb298" class="pageref">298</a>;<br> +compensation, <a href="#pb300" class="pageref">300</a>;<br> +its pleasures, <a href="#pb307" class="pageref">307</a>;<br> +flowers and fruit, <a href="#pb308" class="pageref">308</a>;<br> +Arabs of Mesopotamia, <a href="#pb309" class="pageref">309</a>;<br> +robbers of the desert, <a href="#pb311" class="pageref">311</a>;<br> +a false alarm, <a href="#pb312" class="pageref">312</a>;<br> +lost, <a href="#pb314" class="pageref">314</a>;<br> +thunderstorms, <a href="#pb316" class="pageref">316</a></p> +<p>Devil-worshippers, Yezidees or, <a href="#pb284" class= +"pageref">284</a></p> +<p>Difficult patients, <a href="#pb323" class= +"pageref">323</a>–5</p> +<p>Dinner, a Persian, <a href="#pb100" class="pageref">100</a></p> +<p>Dinner-party, the Governor’s, <a href="#pb82" class= +"pageref">82</a></p> +<p>“Discoveries at Nineveh,” Layard’s, <a href= +"#pb185" class="pageref">185</a></p> +<p>Diseases in Mosul, the most frequent, <a href="#pb322" class= +"pageref">322</a></p> +<p>—— native treatment of, <a href="#pb160" class= +"pageref">160</a></p> +<p>Divorce, easiness of, <a href="#pb103" class="pageref">103</a>, +<a href="#pb232" class="pageref">232</a></p> +<p>Dogs and the jackals, legend of the, <a href="#pb37" class= +"pageref">37</a> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb331" href="#pb331" +name="pb331">331</a>]</span></p> +<p>Dream, a “faked,” how a gold watch was recovered, +<a href="#pb262" class="pageref">262</a>;<br> +the mullah’s, <a href="#pb264" class="pageref">264</a>;<br> +Indian servant’s, <a href="#pb265" class="pageref">265</a></p> +<p>Dreams and visions, the belief in, <a href="#pb260" class= +"pageref">260</a>;<br> +the soldiers in the ward, <a href="#pb267" class="pageref">267</a></p> +<p>Drunken Moslem, the judge and the, <a href="#pb270" class= +"pageref">270</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">E</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Eclipse at Yezd, effect of an, <a href="#pb21" class= +"pageref">21</a></p> +<p>Elburz Mountains, the, <a href="#pb51" class="pageref">51</a></p> +<p>Elkosh, village of, <a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a></p> +<p>Evil Eye, the, <a href="#pb250" class="pageref">250</a></p> +<p>Eye diseases, prevalence of, <a href="#pb153" class= +"pageref">153</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">F</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Fakirs, an order of priesthood amongst the Yezidees, +<a href="#pb289" class="pageref">289</a></p> +<p>Fasts, <a href="#pb108" class="pageref">108</a></p> +<p>Fatalism, <a href="#pb217" class="pageref">217</a>;<br> +of the women, <a href="#pb235" class="pageref">235</a></p> +<p>Feasting at a birth, <a href="#pb211" class="pageref">211</a>;<br> +weddings, <a href="#pb247" class="pageref">247</a>;<br> +at funerals, <a href="#pb248" class="pageref">248</a>;<br> +at Christmas and Easter, <a href="#pb254" class="pageref">254</a></p> +<p>Ferry-boat on the Tigris, a, <a href="#pb207" class= +"pageref">207</a></p> +<p>Fever, native method of curing, <a href="#pb282" class= +"pageref">282</a></p> +<p>Fighting amongst women, <a href="#pb241" class="pageref">241</a></p> +<p>Fire-worship among the Parsees, <a href="#pb121" class= +"pageref">121</a></p> +<p>Fruit and vegetables at Mosul, <a href="#pb183" class= +"pageref">183</a></p> +<p>Funerals, feasting at, <a href="#pb248" class="pageref">248</a>;<br> +wailers, <a href="#pb248" class="pageref">248</a>;<br> +custom after a death, <a href="#pb249" class="pageref">249</a>;<br> +bitter coffee, <a href="#pb254" class="pageref">254</a></p> +<p>Furs exported from Mosul, <a href="#pb184" class= +"pageref">184</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">G</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"><i>Galah i Doukhta</i>, or Fort of the Maiden, +<a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a></p> +<p>Galeem, a kind of rug, <a href="#pb46" class="pageref">46</a></p> +<p>Gambling habit, the, <a href="#pb272" class="pageref">272</a></p> +<p>Garden of Eden, the, <a href="#pb198" class="pageref">198</a></p> +<p>Girl’s birth, no celebrations at a, <a href="#pb215" class= +"pageref">215</a>;<br> +neglect of girls, <a href="#pb216" class="pageref">216</a>;<br> +education, <a href="#pb217" class="pageref">217</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">H</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Hadji Hussein Pasha, repairs the walls of Mosul, +<a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a></p> +<p><i>Halawwi</i>, a sweetmeat, <a href="#pb183" class= +"pageref">183</a></p> +<p>Hamadané Sultané, Princess, <a href="#pb90" class= +"pageref">90</a></p> +<p><i>Hammam</i>, or bath, the, <a href="#pb65" class= +"pageref">65</a>;<br> +women’s one place of recreation, <a href="#pb242" class= +"pageref">242</a></p> +<p>Hammam Ali, sulphur bath near Mosul, <a href="#pb195" class= +"pageref">195</a></p> +<p>Hareems of Mosul, the, <a href="#pb224" class="pageref">224</a>;<br> +jealousy in, <a href="#pb229" class="pageref">229</a></p> +<p>Hassain and Hussein, the mourning for, <a href="#pb109" class= +"pageref">109</a>, <a href="#pb157" class="pageref">157</a></p> +<p>Health of Europeans at Kerman, <a href="#pb58" class= +"pageref">58</a></p> +<p>“Hereditary physicians,” <a href="#pb318" class= +"pageref">318</a></p> +<p>Herodotus, mention of Kerman by, <a href="#pb31" class= +"pageref">31</a></p> +<p>“Home life,” lack of, <a href="#pb86" class= +"pageref">86</a>, <a href="#pb231" class="pageref">231</a></p> +<p>Horses, Arab, <a href="#pb310" class="pageref">310</a></p> +<p><i>Hoze</i>, or water-tank, the, <a href="#pb54" class= +"pageref">54</a></p> +<p>Hunting, <a href="#pb69" class="pageref">69</a></p> +<p>Husband, a brutal, <a href="#pb102" class="pageref">102</a></p> +<p>Hydrophobia, how a sheikh averts, <a href="#pb282" class= +"pageref">282</a></p> +<p>Hysteria amongst Persian women, <a href="#pb161" class= +"pageref">161</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">I</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Ice, how it is made at Isphahan, <a href="#pb53" +class="pageref">53</a></p> +<p>Industries of Persia, <a href="#pb40" class="pageref">40</a>, +<a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a>;<br> +of Mosul, <a href="#pb183" class="pageref">183</a></p> +<p>Irrigation about Mosul, <a href="#pb182" class= +"pageref">182</a>;<br> +Assyrian method, <a href="#pb184" class="pageref">184</a> <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb332" href="#pb332" name="pb332">332</a>]</span></p> +<p>Irrigation of the Mesopotamian desert, the, <a href="#pb328" class= +"pageref">328</a></p> +<p>Isphahan, journey to, <a href="#pb17" class="pageref">17</a>;<br> +arrival at, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a></p> +<p>—— settlement of Armenians at, <a href="#pb28" class= +"pageref">28</a>;<br> +Europeans at, <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a>;<br> +Jews at, <a href="#pb29" class="pageref">29</a>;<br> +calico printing, <a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a>;<br> +brass-work of, <a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a>;<br> +poppy growing, <a href="#pb48" class="pageref">48</a>;<br> +climate of, <a href="#pb52" class="pageref">52</a>;<br> +ice-house, <a href="#pb53" class="pageref">53</a>;<br> +social life, <a href="#pb71" class="pageref">71</a>;<br> +Medical Mission, <a href="#pb141" class="pageref">141</a>;<br> +population, <a href="#pb145" class="pageref">145</a>;<br> +archbishops, <a href="#pb145" class="pageref">145</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">J</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Jackals of the desert, legend of the, <a href="#pb37" +class="pageref">37</a></p> +<p>Jacobite section of the Christian Church at Mosul, <a href="#pb190" +class="pageref">190</a></p> +<p>Jalal el Dowleh, H.R.H. the, <a href="#pb66" class="pageref">66</a>, +<a href="#pb144" class="pageref">144</a>, <a href="#pb165" class= +"pageref">165</a></p> +<p>Jews, the, <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a>;<br> +a degraded class, <a href="#pb29" class="pageref">29</a>;<br> +of Mosul, <a href="#pb193" class="pageref">193</a></p> +<p>Jezirah, village of, <a href="#pb177" class="pageref">177</a></p> +<p>Jinns and goblins, belief in, <a href="#pb166" class= +"pageref">166</a></p> +<p>Jonah, the tomb of, <a href="#pb175" class="pageref">175</a></p> +<p>Judy, mountain, <a href="#pb177" class="pageref">177</a></p> +<p>Judy, our servant, superstitions of, <a href="#pb280" class= +"pageref">280</a></p> +<p>Julfa, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a>;<br> +Armenians at, <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a>;<br> +medical mission at, <a href="#pb141" class="pageref">141</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">K</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Ka’aba at Mecca, the, <a href="#pb193" class= +"pageref">193</a></p> +<p>Kabobs, <a href="#pb225" class="pageref">225</a></p> +<p><i>Kajâvah</i>, the, as a means of travelling, <a href="#pb23" +class="pageref">23</a>;<br> +the government official and his wife, <a href="#pb24" class= +"pageref">24</a></p> +<p>Kalah Shurgât, an Assyrian ruin, <a href="#pb179" class= +"pageref">179</a></p> +<p><i>Kalian</i>, the, or water-pipe, <a href="#pb49" class= +"pageref">49</a></p> +<p><i>Kalimat</i>, the, or declaration of faith, <a href="#pb106" +class="pageref">106</a></p> +<p><i>Kanâts</i>, or tunnels for supplying water, <a href="#pb48" +class="pageref">48</a></p> +<p>Karduchi, the, or Parthians, <a href="#pb192" class= +"pageref">192</a></p> +<p>Kashan, silk-weaving at, <a href="#pb46" class="pageref">46</a></p> +<p>—— the copper-work of, <a href="#pb47" class= +"pageref">47</a></p> +<p><i>Keleg</i>, or raft of the Tigris, <a href="#pb201" class= +"pageref">201</a></p> +<p>Kerman, medical work opened at, <a href="#pb17" class= +"pageref">17</a>;<br> +arrival at, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a>;<br> +a cloud of locusts, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a>;<br> +Jews at, <a href="#pb29" class="pageref">29</a>;<br> +first view of, <a href="#pb30" class="pageref">30</a>;<br> +derivation of the name, <a href="#pb31" class="pageref">31</a>;<br> +antiquity of, <a href="#pb31" class="pageref">31</a>;<br> +vicissitudes, <a href="#pb31" class="pageref">31</a>;<br> +poverty of, <a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a>;<br> +ancient Kerman, <a href="#pb33" class="pageref">33</a>;<br> +legend of the jackals, <a href="#pb37" class="pageref">37</a>;<br> +carpet-making, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a>;<br> +children employed in carpet-weaving, <a href="#pb44" class= +"pageref">44</a>;<br> +shawl manufactories, <a href="#pb46" class="pageref">46</a>;<br> +climate, <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a>;<br> +social life, <a href="#pb71" class="pageref">71</a>;<br> +recreations, <a href="#pb79" class="pageref">79</a>;<br> +Parsees, <a href="#pb120" class="pageref">120</a>;<br> +establishment of Medical Mission, <a href="#pb151" class= +"pageref">151</a>;<br> +native surgery, <a href="#pb153" class="pageref">153</a>;<br> +a trying operation, <a href="#pb155" class="pageref">155</a>;<br> +an opium patient, <a href="#pb158" class="pageref">158</a></p> +<p>—— the beautiful traitress of, <a href="#pb36" class= +"pageref">36</a></p> +<p>Khan Baba Khan, the anderoon of, <a href="#pb88" class= +"pageref">88</a></p> +<p>Kissing the hand, <a href="#pb250" class="pageref">250</a></p> +<p>Koork, a species of goat, <a href="#pb46" class="pageref">46</a></p> +<p><i>Korsi</i>, the, or stove, <a href="#pb52" class= +"pageref">52</a></p> +<p>Kouyunjik, one of the mounds of Nineveh, <a href="#pb173" class= +"pageref">173</a>, <a href="#pb175" class="pageref">175</a></p> +<p>Kurdistan carpets, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a></p> +<p>Kurds, the, <a href="#pb192" class="pageref">192</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">L</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"><i>Lahaf</i>, the, or padded quilt, <a href="#pb52" +class="pageref">52</a></p> +<p>Landor, Mr. Savage, <a href="#pb72" class="pageref">72</a></p> +<p>Layard and the Yezidees, <a href="#pb286" class= +"pageref">286</a></p> +<p>Layard’s “Discoveries at Nineveh,” <a href= +"#pb185" class="pageref">185</a></p> +<p>Leasing our house at Kerman, <a href="#pb72" class="pageref">72</a> +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb333" href="#pb333" name= +"pb333">333</a>]</span></p> +<p><i>Lebban</i>, a species of junket, <a href="#pb226" class= +"pageref">226</a></p> +<p>Life on the roof, <a href="#pb56" class="pageref">56</a></p> +<p>Lion and the Sun, origin of the symbol, <a href="#pb19" class= +"pageref">19</a></p> +<p>“Little devil,” the, <a href="#pb141" class= +"pageref">141</a></p> +<p>Locusts, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a></p> +<p>Looms for carpet-weaving, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a></p> +<p>Lost in the desert, <a href="#pb314" class="pageref">314</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">M</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">“Magi,” the, <a href="#pb120" class= +"pageref">120</a></p> +<p>Mahoon, our holiday at, <a href="#pb63" class="pageref">63</a></p> +<p><i>Mahullah</i>, or quarter of the town, <a href="#pb226" class= +"pageref">226</a></p> +<p><i>Malek el Taous</i>, or peacock of the Yezidees, <a href="#pb286" +class="pageref">286</a></p> +<p>Marvan, the walls of Mosul built by, <a href="#pb178" class= +"pageref">178</a></p> +<p><i>Medâqal</i> of native servants, <a href="#pb18" class= +"pageref">18</a></p> +<p>Medical Missions, <a href="#pb140" class="pageref">140</a>;<br> +at Kerman, <a href="#pb151" class="pageref">151</a>;<br> +at Yezd, <a href="#pb164" class="pageref">164</a></p> +<p>Mental diseases, an asylum for, <a href="#pb326" class= +"pageref">326</a></p> +<p>Mirages, <a href="#pb131" class="pageref">131</a></p> +<p>Mirza Ali Muhammed, the founder of Babism, <a href="#pb116" class= +"pageref">116</a></p> +<p>Mirza Yahya, the second Báb, <a href="#pb119" class= +"pageref">119</a></p> +<p>Mohammed and the Jews, <a href="#pb193" class="pageref">193</a></p> +<p>Mohurram, the month of, <a href="#pb109" class="pageref">109</a></p> +<p>Mono-rail, an ancient, <a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a></p> +<p>Mosaics of Shiraz, the, <a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a></p> +<p>Moslems, <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a></p> +<p>Moslem women, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a></p> +<p>Mosquitoes and sandflies, <a href="#pb90" class="pageref">90</a></p> +<p>Mosul, fasting by the women of, <a href="#pb174" class= +"pageref">174</a>;<br> +bridge of boats, <a href="#pb176" class="pageref">176</a>;<br> +conquered, <a href="#pb178" class="pageref">178</a>;<br> +besieged by Saladin, <a href="#pb178" class="pageref">178</a>;<br> +vicissitudes of, <a href="#pb178" class="pageref">178</a>;<br> +climate, <a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a>;<br> +spring, <a href="#pb181" class="pageref">181</a>;<br> +rain, <a href="#pb181" class="pageref">181</a>;<br> +cultivation, <a href="#pb182" class="pageref">182</a>;<br> +industries, <a href="#pb183" class="pageref">183</a>;<br> +population, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>, <a href="#pb190" +class="pageref">190</a>;<br> +Mohammedans and Christians, <a href="#pb187" class= +"pageref">187</a>;<br> +Arabs, <a href="#pb190" class="pageref">190</a>;<br> +Kurds, <a href="#pb192" class="pageref">192</a>;<br> +Jews, <a href="#pb193" class="pageref">193</a>;<br> +racing, <a href="#pb194" class="pageref">194</a>;<br> +Hammam Ali, <a href="#pb195" class="pageref">195</a>;<br> +children, <a href="#pb208" class="pageref">208</a>;<br> +women, <a href="#pb219" class="pageref">219</a>;<br> +hareems, <a href="#pb223" class="pageref">223</a>;<br> +a census at, <a href="#pb301" class="pageref">301</a>;<br> +disorders, <a href="#pb303" class="pageref">303</a>;<br> +a woman doctor, <a href="#pb303" class="pageref">303</a>;<br> +frequent robberies, <a href="#pb304" class="pageref">304</a>;<br> +violence and murder, <a href="#pb305" class="pageref">305</a>;<br> +surgery not much practised, <a href="#pb318" class= +"pageref">318</a>;<br> +interesting statistics, <a href="#pb321" class="pageref">321</a>;<br> +a petition, <a href="#pb322" class="pageref">322</a>;<br> +a cataract patient, <a href="#pb323" class="pageref">323</a>;<br> +the Moslem priest, <a href="#pb324" class="pageref">324</a></p> +<p><i>Mujtiheds</i>, or Moslem archbishops, <a href="#pb145" class= +"pageref">145</a></p> +<p>Mullah, the dead, <a href="#pb147" class="pageref">147</a></p> +<p>Mullahs or priests, <a href="#pb107" class="pageref">107</a>, +<a href="#pb113" class="pageref">113</a>;<br> +their great influence, <a href="#pb114" class="pageref">114</a>, +<a href="#pb145" class="pageref">145</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">N</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Nabbi Eunice, one of the mounds of Nineveh, <a href= +"#pb173" class="pageref">173</a></p> +<p>Nahar-as-Salam, or Tigris, <a href="#pb199" class= +"pageref">199</a></p> +<p>Nahum, the prophet, supposed burial-place of, <a href="#pb179" +class="pageref">179</a></p> +<p>Namads, species of carpet, <a href="#pb46" class= +"pageref">46</a></p> +<p>Names given according to a person’s characteristic, <a href= +"#pb274" class="pageref">274</a></p> +<p>“Naseeb,” or “Kismet,” <a href="#pb217" +class="pageref">217</a>, <a href="#pb235" class="pageref">235</a></p> +<p>Natanz, the village of, <a href="#pb61" class="pageref">61</a></p> +<p>Neamat ’Allah, our “showman,” <a href="#pb77" +class="pageref">77</a></p> +<p>“Nerve” trouble amongst Europeans, the cause of, +<a href="#pb52" class="pageref">52</a></p> +<p>Nestorians in Mosul, <a href="#pb189" class="pageref">189</a>;<br> +massacre by Kurds, <a href="#pb190" class="pageref">190</a></p> +<p>Nineveh, Kouyunjik, and Nabbi Eunice, <a href="#pb173" class= +"pageref">173</a>;<br> +remains of, <a href="#pb174" class="pageref">174</a>;<br> +bridge of boats, <a href="#pb176" class="pageref">176</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">O</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Omar el Khattab, conqueror of Mosul, <a href="#pb178" +class="pageref">178</a></p> +<p>Operations, most frequent, <a href="#pb322" class= +"pageref">322</a></p> +<p>Opium cultivation, <a href="#pb49" class="pageref">49</a> +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb334" href="#pb334" name= +"pb334">334</a>]</span></p> +<p>Opium habit, the, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a>;<br> +in Yezd, <a href="#pb167" class="pageref">167</a></p> +<p>—— patient, an, <a href="#pb158" class= +"pageref">158</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">P</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Parsee wedding, a, <a href="#pb123" class= +"pageref">123</a></p> +<p>—— women and children, <a href="#pb122" class= +"pageref">122</a></p> +<p>Parsees or Zoroastrians, <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a>, +<a href="#pb120" class="pageref">120</a>;<br> +ceremony at death, <a href="#pb127" class="pageref">127</a></p> +<p>Patchwork and embroidery of Resht, <a href="#pb46" class= +"pageref">46</a></p> +<p>Patriarch of the Nestorians, the, how he is chosen, <a href="#pb189" +class="pageref">189</a></p> +<p>Peacock, the, the symbol of the Yezidee religion, <a href="#pb286" +class="pageref">286</a></p> +<p>Persia, the Land of the Lion and the Sun, <a href="#pb19" class= +"pageref">19</a>;<br> +inhabitants of, <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a>;<br> +industries of, <a href="#pb40" class="pageref">40</a>;<br> +agricultural industries of, <a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a>;<br> +climate of, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a></p> +<p>Persian desert, illness in the, <a href="#pb17" class= +"pageref">17</a></p> +<p>Persians, procrastinating character of the, <a href="#pb60" class= +"pageref">60</a>;<br> +their politeness, <a href="#pb81" class="pageref">81</a>;<br> +superstitions of the, <a href="#pb166" class="pageref">166</a></p> +<p>—— of to-day, the, <a href="#pb28" class= +"pageref">28</a></p> +<p>Phillott, Major, his fight against the sweating of children, +<a href="#pb45" class="pageref">45</a></p> +<p>Pilgrimages, <a href="#pb107" class="pageref">107</a></p> +<p>Pirs, the, an order of priesthood amongst the Yezidees, <a href= +"#pb287" class="pageref">287</a></p> +<p>Poppy, the cultivation of the, <a href="#pb48" class= +"pageref">48</a></p> +<p>Prayer, the call to, <a href="#pb107" class="pageref">107</a></p> +<p>Prayer stones in Sheikh Âdi’s shrine, <a href="#pb292" +class="pageref">292</a></p> +<p>Prince’s vagaries, a, <a href="#pb92" class= +"pageref">92</a></p> +<p>Pulivagoon, the village of, <a href="#pb62" class= +"pageref">62</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Q</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Quacks, native, <a href="#pb160" class= +"pageref">160</a>, <a href="#pb165" class="pageref">165</a>;<br> +in Mosul, <a href="#pb318" class="pageref">318</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">R</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Rafts on the Tigris, <a href="#pb200" class= +"pageref">200</a></p> +<p>Rain at Mosul, <a href="#pb181" class="pageref">181</a></p> +<p>Rain in Persia, <a href="#pb20" class="pageref">20</a></p> +<p>Rainfall in Resht, the, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a></p> +<p>Ramadan, the month of, <a href="#pb108" class="pageref">108</a></p> +<p>Rassam, Mr., and the Yezidees, <a href="#pb285" class= +"pageref">285</a></p> +<p>Recreations of Kerman, <a href="#pb79" class="pageref">79</a></p> +<p>Religious bodies, <a href="#pb112" class="pageref">112</a></p> +<p>Resht, silk-weaving, patchwork, and embroidery of, <a href="#pb46" +class="pageref">46</a>;<br> +rainfall, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a></p> +<p>Rest-houses of Persia, the, <a href="#pb132" class= +"pageref">132</a></p> +<p>Riding, a way of travelling in Persia, <a href="#pb23" class= +"pageref">23</a></p> +<p>Robbers of the desert, the, <a href="#pb311" class= +"pageref">311</a></p> +<p>Roof, life on the, <a href="#pb56" class="pageref">56</a></p> +<p>Rustem, our parlour-maid, <a href="#pb77" class="pageref">77</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">S</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Saladin, siege of Mosul by, <a href="#pb178" class= +"pageref">178</a>, <a href="#pb192" class="pageref">192</a></p> +<p>Sand-storms, <a href="#pb21" class="pageref">21</a></p> +<p>Satan, the Yezidees’ idea of, <a href="#pb286" class= +"pageref">286</a></p> +<p><i>Savabs</i>, or good works, the doctrine of, <a href="#pb156" +class="pageref">156</a></p> +<p>Scent, superstition about, <a href="#pb277" class= +"pageref">277</a></p> +<p>Scorpions at Yezd, <a href="#pb55" class="pageref">55</a></p> +<p>Servant problem at Kerman, the, <a href="#pb75" class= +"pageref">75</a></p> +<p>Servants, cheating by native, <a href="#pb18" class= +"pageref">18</a></p> +<p>Seyyids, the, a religious body, <a href="#pb113" class= +"pageref">113</a></p> +<p>Shammar clan of Arabs, the, <a href="#pb191" class= +"pageref">191</a></p> +<p>Shawl manufactories in Kerman, <a href="#pb46" class= +"pageref">46</a></p> +<p>Sheikh Âdi, the patron saint of the Yezidees, <a href="#pb287" +class="pageref">287</a>;<br> +shrine of the serpent on the porch, <a href="#pb291" class= +"pageref">291</a>;<br> +a great teacher, <a href="#pb291" class="pageref">291</a></p> +<p>—— Matti, superstition about, <a href="#pb281" class= +"pageref">281</a></p> +<p>—— Naser, high-priest of the Yezidees, <a href="#pb284" +class="pageref">284</a></p> +<p>Sheikhs, an order of priesthood amongst the Yezidees, <a href= +"#pb287" class="pageref">287</a> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb335" +href="#pb335" name="pb335">335</a>]</span></p> +<p>Shiah Mohammedans, <a href="#pb113" class="pageref">113</a></p> +<p>Shiraz, the silver-work of, <a href="#pb47" class= +"pageref">47</a>;<br> +mosaics of, <a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a>;<br> +the birthplace of the Báb, <a href="#pb116" class= +"pageref">116</a></p> +<p>Silk-weaving in Persia, <a href="#pb46" class="pageref">46</a></p> +<p>Silver-work of Shiraz, the, <a href="#pb47" class= +"pageref">47</a></p> +<p><i>Sirdâbs</i>, or underground rooms, <a href="#pb180" class= +"pageref">180</a></p> +<p>Social customs:<br> +kissing the hand, <a href="#pb250" class="pageref">250</a>;<br> +rising, <a href="#pb251" class="pageref">251</a>;<br> +sending trays of cooked meats, <a href="#pb252" class= +"pageref">252</a>;<br> +distributing food, <a href="#pb252" class="pageref">252</a>;<br> +giving coffee, <a href="#pb253" class="pageref">253</a>;<br> +bread-making, <a href="#pb255" class="pageref">255</a></p> +<p>Specialist in mental diseases, a, <a href="#pb326" class= +"pageref">326</a></p> +<p>Statistics of the Mosul Medical Mission, <a href="#pb321" class= +"pageref">321</a></p> +<p>Storks, superstition about, <a href="#pb279" class= +"pageref">279</a></p> +<p>Stuart, Dr. Emmeline, <a href="#pb150" class="pageref">150</a></p> +<p>Suleyman Khan, execution of, <a href="#pb119" class= +"pageref">119</a></p> +<p>Summer at Isphahan, <a href="#pb52" class="pageref">52</a>;<br> +at Yezd, <a href="#pb53" class="pageref">53</a></p> +<p>Sun, the, the emblem of the Fire Worshippers, <a href="#pb19" class= +"pageref">19</a></p> +<p>Sunnis, <a href="#pb113" class="pageref">113</a></p> +<p>Sunset effects in the desert, <a href="#pb131" class= +"pageref">131</a></p> +<p>—— a wonderful, <a href="#pb258" class= +"pageref">258</a></p> +<p>Sunshine, Persia a land of, <a href="#pb19" class= +"pageref">19</a></p> +<p>Superstitions of the Persians, <a href="#pb60" class= +"pageref">60</a>, <a href="#pb166" class="pageref">166</a>;<br> +about scent, <a href="#pb277" class="pageref">277</a>;<br> +storks, <a href="#pb277" class="pageref">277</a>;<br> +how to cure sore eyes, <a href="#pb280" class="pageref">280</a>;<br> +killing goats and sheep, <a href="#pb281" class="pageref">281</a>;<br> +Sheikh matti, <a href="#pb281" class="pageref">281</a>;<br> +to cure fever and avert hydrophobia, <a href="#pb282" class= +"pageref">282</a></p> +<p>Surgery, native, <a href="#pb153" class="pageref">153</a>;<br> +not much practised in Mosul, <a href="#pb318" class= +"pageref">318</a></p> +<p>Swearing, prevalence of, <a href="#pb240" class= +"pageref">240</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">T</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Tabriz, <a href="#pb117" class="pageref">117</a></p> +<p><i>Takhtiravan</i>, the, as a means of travelling, <a href="#pb25" +class="pageref">25</a></p> +<p>Tea, Persian, <a href="#pb99" class="pageref">99</a></p> +<p>Teheran, arrival in, <a href="#pb26" class="pageref">26</a>;<br> +the climate of, <a href="#pb51" class="pageref">51</a>;<br> +social life, <a href="#pb71" class="pageref">71</a>;<br> +execution of the Báb, <a href="#pb118" class= +"pageref">118</a></p> +<p>“Telling the Beads,” <a href="#pb67" class= +"pageref">67</a></p> +<p>Theft, prevalence of petty, <a href="#pb238" class= +"pageref">238</a></p> +<p>Tigris, the, frozen, <a href="#pb180" class="pageref">180</a>;<br> +navigation of the, <a href="#pb184" class="pageref">184</a>, <a href= +"#pb198" class="pageref">198</a>;<br> +Hiddekel, <a href="#pb199" class="pageref">199</a>;<br> +steamers on, <a href="#pb200" class="pageref">200</a>;<br> +bathing, <a href="#pb203" class="pageref">203</a>;<br> +fishing, <a href="#pb206" class="pageref">206</a>;<br> +the ferry-boat, <a href="#pb207" class="pageref">207</a>;<br> +importance of the navigation of, <a href="#pb328" class= +"pageref">328</a></p> +<p>Tobacco growing, <a href="#pb49" class="pageref">49</a></p> +<p>Towers of Silence, the, <a href="#pb128" class="pageref">128</a></p> +<p>Travelling in Persia, different ways of, <a href="#pb23" class= +"pageref">23</a>, <a href="#pb63" class="pageref">63</a>, <a href= +"#pb66" class="pageref">66</a>;<br> +in the desert, <a href="#pb131" class="pageref">131</a>, <a href= +"#pb294" class="pageref">294</a></p> +<p>Truth lightly regarded, <a href="#pb237" class="pageref">237</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">U</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Umayya, an ancient tribe, <a href="#pb178" class= +"pageref">178</a></p> +<p>Uncle Goro of Tel Kaif, the story of, <a href="#pb273" class= +"pageref">273</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">V</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Visiting in Mosul, <a href="#pb226" class= +"pageref">226</a>–8</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">W</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Wagons as a means of travelling, <a href="#pb25" +class="pageref">25</a></p> +<p>Wailers, professional, at funerals, <a href="#pb248" class= +"pageref">248</a></p> +<p>Walling-up as a capital punishment, <a href="#pb138" class= +"pageref">138</a></p> +<p>Water-supply, the, <a href="#pb48" class="pageref">48</a></p> +<p>Weaving at Mosul, <a href="#pb183" class="pageref">183</a></p> +<p>“Weavers,” children employed as, <a href="#pb44" class= +"pageref">44</a></p> +<p>Wedding, a, <a href="#pb97" class="pageref">97</a></p> +<p>—— among the Parsees, a, <a href="#pb123" class= +"pageref">123</a></p> +<p>Weddings, marriage portions, <a href="#pb244" class= +"pageref">244</a>;<br> +negotiations, <a href="#pb245" class="pageref">245</a>;<br> +preliminary feasting, <a href="#pb247" class="pageref">247</a> +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb336" href="#pb336" name= +"pb336">336</a>]</span></p> +<p>Wheat and barley, the cultivation of, <a href="#pb49" class= +"pageref">49</a></p> +<p>Women, curiosity of the, <a href="#pb62" class="pageref">62</a>;<br> +characters, <a href="#pb84" class="pageref">84</a>;<br> +anderoons, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a>, <a href="#pb87" +class="pageref">87</a>;<br> +costume, <a href="#pb95" class="pageref">95</a>;<br> +as beauty specialists, <a href="#pb104" class="pageref">104</a>;<br> +cruel and revengeful nature of, <a href="#pb105" class= +"pageref">105</a>;<br> +Parsee, <a href="#pb122" class="pageref">122</a>;<br> +hysteria amongst, <a href="#pb161" class="pageref">161</a>;<br> +Arab, <a href="#pb191" class="pageref">191</a></p> +<p>—— of Mosul, the, <a href="#pb219" class= +"pageref">219</a>;<br> +types, <a href="#pb219" class="pageref">219</a>, <a href="#pb220" +class="pageref">220</a>;<br> +aids to beauty, <a href="#pb221" class="pageref">221</a>;<br> +hopeless condition of, <a href="#pb223" class="pageref">223</a>;<br> +want of love in the life of, <a href="#pb230" class= +"pageref">230</a>;<br> +facility of divorce, <a href="#pb232" class="pageref">232</a>;<br> +and Paradise, <a href="#pb235" class="pageref">235</a>;<br> +<i>Naseeb</i>, <a href="#pb235" class="pageref">235</a>;<br> +fighting amongst, <a href="#pb241" class="pageref">241</a>;<br> +the <i>hammam</i>, <a href="#pb242" class="pageref">242</a>;<br> +never know their age, <a href="#pb276" class="pageref">276</a>;<br> +superstitious, <a href="#pb277" class="pageref">277</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Y</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"><i>Yakh khaneh</i>, the, or ice-house, <a href="#pb53" +class="pageref">53</a></p> +<p>Yezd, a City of Sand, <a href="#pb19" class="pageref">19</a>;<br> +the effect of an eclipse at, <a href="#pb21" class= +"pageref">21</a>;<br> +Jews at, <a href="#pb29" class="pageref">29</a>;<br> +silk-weaving, <a href="#pb46" class="pageref">46</a>;<br> +the hot season, <a href="#pb53" class="pageref">53</a>;<br> +the “chimneys” of, <a href="#pb54" class= +"pageref">54</a>;<br> +cellars as dwelling-rooms, <a href="#pb54" class="pageref">54</a>;<br> +scorpions, <a href="#pb55" class="pageref">55</a>;<br> +Prince and Princess, <a href="#pb92" class="pageref">92</a>;<br> +persecution of Babis, <a href="#pb119" class="pageref">119</a>;<br> +Parsees, <a href="#pb120" class="pageref">120</a>;<br> +fire temples, <a href="#pb122" class="pageref">122</a>;<br> +brick pillars, <a href="#pb139" class="pageref">139</a>;<br> +Medical Mission, <a href="#pb164" class="pageref">164</a>;<br> +opium habit, <a href="#pb167" class="pageref">167</a></p> +<p>Yezidees, or devil-worshippers, <a href="#pb284" class= +"pageref">284</a>;<br> +Mohammedan bitterness against them, <a href="#pb284" class= +"pageref">284</a>;<br> +tenets of, <a href="#pb285" class="pageref">285</a>;<br> +Layard and the, <a href="#pb286" class="pageref">286</a>;<br> +the peacock, <a href="#pb286" class="pageref">286</a>;<br> +fire-worship, <a href="#pb287" class="pageref">287</a>;<br> +orders of priesthood, <a href="#pb287" class="pageref">287</a>;<br> +prayer stones, <a href="#pb292" class="pageref">292</a>;<br> +costume, <a href="#pb292" class="pageref">292</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Z</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Zendavesta, or sacred book of the Parsees, <a href= +"#pb121" class="pageref">121</a></p> +<p>Zil-es-Sultan, anderoon of the, <a href="#pb93" class= +"pageref">93</a></p> +<p>—— Governor of Isphahan, <a href="#pb143" class= +"pageref">143</a>, <a href="#pb165" class="pageref">165</a></p> +<p>Zoroaster, <a href="#pb120" class="pageref">120</a></p> +<p>Zoroastrians, or Parsees, <a href="#pb19" class="pageref">19</a>, +<a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1 imprint"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first xd20e119">Printed by <span class="sc">Ballantyne, +Hanson & Co.</span></p> +<p class="xd20e119">Edinburgh & London</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="transcribernote"> +<h2 class="main">Colophon</h2> +<h3 class="main">Availability</h3> +<p class="first">This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no +cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give +it away or re-use it under the terms of the <a class="exlink xd20e41" +title="External link" href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license" rel= +"license">Project Gutenberg License</a> included with this eBook or +online at <a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href= +"http://www.gutenberg.org/" rel="home">www.gutenberg.org</a>.</p> +<p>This eBook is produced by the Online Distributed Proofreading Team +at <a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href= +"http://www.pgdp.net/">www.pgdp.net</a>.</p> +<p>Scans of this work are available from the Internet Archive +(<a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href= +"http://archive.org/details/behindveilinpers00humeiala">1</a>, +<a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href= +"http://archive.org/details/behindveilinpers00humeuoft">2</a>, +<a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href= +"http://archive.org/details/BehindTheVeilInPersiaAndTurkishArabia">3</a>).</p> +<p>Related Library of Congress catalog page: <a class="catlink" href= +"http://lccn.loc.gov/49043449">49043449</a>.</p> +<p>Related Open Library catalog page (for source): <a class="catlink" +href="http://openlibrary.org/books/OL7087788M">OL7087788M</a>.</p> +<p>Related Open Library catalog page (for work): <a class="catlink" +href="http://openlibrary.org/works/OL7433576W">OL7433576W</a>.</p> +<p>Related WorldCat catalog page: <a class="catlink" href= +"http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/697896646">697896646</a>.</p> +<h3 class="main">Encoding</h3> +<p class="first"></p> +<h3 class="main">Revision History</h3> +<ul> +<li>2012-04-10 Started.</li> +</ul> +<h3 class="main">External References</h3> +<p>This Project Gutenberg eBook contains external references. These +links may not work for you.</p> +<h3 class="main">Corrections</h3> +<p>The following corrections have been applied to the text:</p> +<table class="correctiontable" summary= +"Overview of corrections applied to the text."> +<tr> +<th>Page</th> +<th>Source</th> +<th>Correction</th> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e913">21</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">,</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">[<i>Deleted</i>]</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1075">38</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">instal</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">install</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1388">72</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">[<i>Not in source</i>]</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1568">91</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Sultanê</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Sultané</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2019">140</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Yezedee</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Yezidee</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2244">164</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Ispahan</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Isphahan</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2490">188</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Pic-nic</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Picnic</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e4526">330</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Dakhnehs</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Dakhmehs</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> +</div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish +Arabia, by M. E. Hume-Griffith and A. Hume-Griffith + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEHIND THE VEIL IN PERSIA *** + +***** This file should be named 39463-h.htm or 39463-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/9/4/6/39463/ + +Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net/ for Project +Gutenberg (This file was produced from images generously +made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at + www.gutenberg.org/license. + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at 809 +North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email +contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the +Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + + +</pre> + +</body> +</html> diff --git a/39463-h/images/book.png b/39463-h/images/book.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8c9ee4f --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/book.png diff --git a/39463-h/images/bracket-left.gif b/39463-h/images/bracket-left.gif Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f3dd35b --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/bracket-left.gif diff --git a/39463-h/images/card.png b/39463-h/images/card.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1ffbe1a --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/card.png diff --git a/39463-h/images/external.png b/39463-h/images/external.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ba4f205 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/external.png diff --git a/39463-h/images/frontcover.jpg b/39463-h/images/frontcover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..35bc0f9 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/frontcover.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p000.jpg b/39463-h/images/p000.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..84520c9 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p000.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p026-1.jpg b/39463-h/images/p026-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..00be7b0 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p026-1.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p026-2.jpg b/39463-h/images/p026-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cd63b5a --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p026-2.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p046-1.jpg b/39463-h/images/p046-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..66c300f --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p046-1.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p046-2.jpg b/39463-h/images/p046-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cb4c516 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p046-2.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p054-1.jpg b/39463-h/images/p054-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bccf9bf --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p054-1.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p054-2.jpg b/39463-h/images/p054-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2495fba --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p054-2.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p072-1.jpg b/39463-h/images/p072-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f3f728f --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p072-1.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p072-2.jpg b/39463-h/images/p072-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c534b23 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p072-2.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p076-1.jpg b/39463-h/images/p076-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ba34be --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p076-1.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p076-2.jpg b/39463-h/images/p076-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e540414 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p076-2.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p086.jpg b/39463-h/images/p086.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7c3420 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p086.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p132-1.jpg b/39463-h/images/p132-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8049ee0 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p132-1.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p132-2.jpg b/39463-h/images/p132-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5954433 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p132-2.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p142-1.jpg b/39463-h/images/p142-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4be208f --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p142-1.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p142-2.jpg b/39463-h/images/p142-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..83138f1 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p142-2.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p148-1.jpg b/39463-h/images/p148-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9d8d0e7 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p148-1.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p148-2.jpg b/39463-h/images/p148-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b33685 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p148-2.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p158-1.jpg b/39463-h/images/p158-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ade8cb0 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p158-1.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p158-2.jpg b/39463-h/images/p158-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9018c94 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p158-2.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p166-1.jpg b/39463-h/images/p166-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e1f4ffd --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p166-1.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p166-2.jpg b/39463-h/images/p166-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ced873 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p166-2.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p174.jpg b/39463-h/images/p174.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d260420 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p174.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p176.jpg b/39463-h/images/p176.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2090188 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p176.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p180.jpg b/39463-h/images/p180.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8da8444 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p180.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p188.jpg b/39463-h/images/p188.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8f1d224 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p188.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p192.jpg b/39463-h/images/p192.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..14d0d1c --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p192.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p210-1.jpg b/39463-h/images/p210-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6caf75c --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p210-1.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p210-2.jpg b/39463-h/images/p210-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a71d638 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p210-2.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p216.jpg b/39463-h/images/p216.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1e55b79 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p216.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p222-1.jpg b/39463-h/images/p222-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3955df4 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p222-1.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p222-2.jpg b/39463-h/images/p222-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f4aebf2 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p222-2.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p224.jpg b/39463-h/images/p224.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c91ea7c --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p224.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p240.jpg b/39463-h/images/p240.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..80a84f4 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p240.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p246.jpg b/39463-h/images/p246.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b1c7d4b --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p246.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/p259.gif b/39463-h/images/p259.gif Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e23b194 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p259.gif diff --git a/39463-h/images/p296.jpg b/39463-h/images/p296.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b253483 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/p296.jpg diff --git a/39463-h/images/titlepage.gif b/39463-h/images/titlepage.gif Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..370f229 --- /dev/null +++ b/39463-h/images/titlepage.gif |
