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+    <title>
+      The Columbia River: Its History, Its Myths, Its Scenery, Its Commerce, by William Denison Lyman&mdash;A Project Gutenberg eBook
+    </title>
+
+    <style type="text/css">
+
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+
+    body {margin-left: 12%; margin-right: 12%;}
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+
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+
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+    .title {text-align: center; font-size: 150%;}
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+
+    .right {text-align: right;}
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Columbia River, by William Denison Lyman
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Columbia River
+       Its History, Its Myths, Its Scenery, Its Commerce
+
+Author: William Denison Lyman
+
+Release Date: April 6, 2012 [EBook #39388]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COLUMBIA RIVER ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bryan Ness and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p><a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/frontis.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h1><small>The<br />Columbia River</small></h1>
+<p class="center"><span class="large">Its History, Its Myths, Its Scenery<br />Its Commerce</span></p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><small>By</small><br />
+<span class="large">William Denison Lyman</span><br />
+<small>Professor of History in Whitman College,<br />Walla Walla, Washington</small></p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><i>With 80 Illustrations and a Map</i></p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center">G. P. Putnam&#8217;s Sons<br />
+New York and London<br />
+The Knickerbocker Press<br />
+1909</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Copyright</span>, 1909<br />
+BY<br />
+G. P. PUTNAM&#8217;S SONS</p>
+<p class="center">
+The Knickerbocker Press, New York</p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><span class="smcaplc">TO MY PARENTS</span><br />
+<span class="large">Horace Lyman and Mary Denison Lyman</span><br />
+<span class="smcaplc">PIONEERS OF 1849, WHO BORE THEIR PART IN LAYING THE<br />
+FOUNDATIONS OF CIVILIZATION UPON THE BANKS OF<br />
+THE COLUMBIA, THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED<br />
+BY THE AUTHOR</span></p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="5" summary="table">
+<tr><td>I see the living tide roll on,<br />
+It crowns with rosy towers<br />
+The icy capes of Labrador,<br />
+The Spaniard&#8217;s land of flowers;<br />
+It streams beyond the splintered ridge<br />
+That parts the northern showers.<br />
+From eastern rock to sunset wave,<br />
+The Continent is ours.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 9em;"><span class="smcap">Holmes.</span></span></td></tr></table>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p>
+<h2>PREFACE</h2>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">As</span> one of the American Waterways series, this volume is designed to be a
+history and description of the Columbia River. The author has sought to
+convey to his reader a lively sense of the romance, the heroism, and the
+adventure which belong to this great stream and the parts of the
+North-west about it, and he has aimed to breathe into his narrative
+something of the spirit and sentiment&mdash;a spirit and sentiment more easily
+recognised than analysed&mdash;which we call &#8220;Western.&#8221; With this end in view,
+his treatment of the subject has been general rather than detailed, and
+popular rather than recondite. While he has spared no pains to secure
+historical accuracy, he has not made it a leading aim to settle
+controverted points, or to present the minuti&aelig; of historical research and
+criticism. In short, the book is rather for the general reader than for
+the specialist. The author hopes so to impress his readers with the
+majesty of the Columbia as to fill their minds with a longing to see it
+face to face.</p>
+
+<p>Frequent reference in the body of the book to authorities renders it
+unnecessary to name them here. Suffice it to say that the author has
+consulted the standard works of history and description dealing with
+Oregon&mdash;the old Oregon&mdash;and its River, and from the voluminous matter
+there gathered has selected the facts that best combine to make a
+connected and picturesque<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span> narrative. He has treated the subject
+topically, but there is a general progression throughout, and the
+endeavour has been to find a natural jointure of chapter to chapter and
+era to era.</p>
+
+<p>While the book has necessarily been based largely on other books, it may
+be said that the author has derived his chief inspiration from his own
+observations along the shores of the River and amid the mountains of
+Oregon and Washington, where his life has mainly been spent, and from
+familiar conversations in the cabins of pioneers, or at camp-fires of
+hunters, or around Indian tepees, or in the pilot-houses of steamboats. In
+such ways and places one can best catch the spirit of the River and its
+history.</p>
+
+<p>The author gladly takes this opportunity of making his grateful
+acknowledgments to Prof. F. G. Young, of Oregon University, for his
+kindness in reading the manuscript and in making suggestions which his
+full knowledge and ripe judgment render especially valuable. He wishes
+also to express his warmest thanks to Mr. Harvey W. Scott, editor of the
+<i>Oregonian</i>, for invaluable counsel. Similar gratitude is due to Prof.
+Henry Landes of Washington University for important assistance in regard
+to some of the scientific features of the first chapter.</p>
+
+<p class="right">W. D. L.</p>
+
+<p><span style="margin-left: 1em;"><span class="smcap">Whitman College</span>,</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Walla Walla, Wash.</span>,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3.5em;">1909.</span></p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span></p>
+<p class="title">CONTENTS</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="5" summary="table">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#PART_I">PART I.</a>&mdash;THE HISTORY</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Land where the River Flows</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Tales of the First White Men along the Coast</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">How All Nations Sought the River from the Sea and how they Found it</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">First Steps across the Wilderness in Search of the River</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Fur-Traders, their Bateaux, and their Stations</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Coming of the Missionaries to the Tribes of the River</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_136">136</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</a></span><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Era of the Pioneers, their Ox-Teams, and their Flatboats</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_159">159</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Conflict of Nations for Possession of the River</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_179">179</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Times of Tomahawk and Firebrand</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_202">202</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">When the &#8220;Fire-Canoes&#8221; Took the Place of the Log-Canoes</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_234">234</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Era of the Miner, the Cowboy, the Farmer, the Boomer, and the Railroad-Builder</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_249">249</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Present Age of Expansion and World Commerce</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_265">265</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#PART_II">PART II.</a>&mdash;A JOURNEY DOWN THE RIVER</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_2.I">CHAPTER I</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_273">273</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_2.II">CHAPTER II</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Lakes from the Arrow Lakes to Chelan</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_290">290</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_2.III">CHAPTER III</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">In the Land of Wheat-Field, Orchard, and Garden</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_313">313</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_2.IV">CHAPTER IV</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Where River and Mountain Meet, and the Traces of the Bridge of the Gods</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_332">332</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_2.V">CHAPTER V</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Side Trip to some of the Great Snow-Peaks</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_352">352</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_2.VI">CHAPTER VI</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Lower River and the Ocean Tides</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_374">374</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Index</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_399">399</a></td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[Pg xiii]</a></span></p>
+<p class="title">ILLUSTRATIONS</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="5" summary="table">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">St. Peter&#8217;s Dome, Columbia River, 2300 Feet High</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#frontis"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Copyright, Kiser Photograph Co., 1902.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mount Adams from the South</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_75">74</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Capt. Robert Gray</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_77">76</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">The &#8220;Columbia Rediviva&#8221;</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_77">76</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mount Hood from Lost Lake</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_83">82</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Eliot Glacier, Mt. Hood</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_85">84</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Astoria in 1845</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">From an old print.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Astoria, Looking up and across the Columbia River</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Woodfield.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">One of the Lagoons of the Upper Columbia River, near Golden B. C.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_121">120</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by C. F. Yates, Golden.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Saddle Mountain, or Swallalochort near Astoria, Famous in Indian Myth</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_121">120</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Woodfield.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Steamer &#8220;Beaver,&#8221; the First Steamer on the Pacific, 1836</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_125">124</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[Pg xiv]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Portland, Oregon, in 1851</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_125">124</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">From an old print.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Grave of Marcus Whitman and his Associate Martyrs at Waiilatpu</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_211">210</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Chapman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Cayuse Babies</span>&mdash;1</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_213">212</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Copyright by Lee Moorehouse, 1898.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Cayuse Babies</span>&mdash;2</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_213">212</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Copyright by Lee Moorehouse, 1898.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Col. B. F. Shaw, who Won the Battle of Grande Ronde in 1856</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_223">222</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">By courtesy of Lee Moorehouse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Fort Sheridan on the Grande Ronde, Built by Philip Sheridan in 1855</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_225">224</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">By courtesy of Lee Moorehouse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Tullux Holliquilla, a Warm Springs Indian Chief, Famous in the Modoc War<br />as a Scout for U. S. Troops</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_229">228</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">By courtesy of Lee Moorehouse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Hallakallakeen (Eagle Wing) or Joseph, the Nez Perc&eacute; Chief</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_231">230</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">By T. W. Tolman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Camp of Chief Joseph on the Nespilem, Wash.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_232">232</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Tirzah Trask, a Umatilla Indian Girl&mdash;Taken as an Ideal of Sacajawea</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_235">234</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Lee Moorehouse, Pendleton.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Oregon Pioneer in his Cabin</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_257">256</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Old Portage Railroad at Cascades in 1860</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_259">258</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[Pg xv]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Log-boom down the River for San Francisco</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_259">258</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Woodfield.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Lumber Mill and Steamboat Landing at Golden, B. C.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_261">260</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by C. F. Yates.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Typical Lumber Camp</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_263">262</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Trueman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Logging Railroad, near Astoria</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_264">264</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Woodfield.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Natural Bridge, Kicking Horse or Wapta River, and Mt. Stephen, B. C.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_277">276</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by C. F. Yates.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Sunrise on Columbia River, near Washougal</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_277">276</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Copyright, Kiser Photograph Co., 1902.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Lake Windermere, Upper Columbia, where David Thompson&#8217;s Fort was Built<br />in 1810</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_281">280</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mt. Burgess and Emerald Lake, One of the Sources of the Wapta River, B. C.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_282">282</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by C. F. Yates.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Bonnington Falls in Kootenai River, near Nelson</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_285">284</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Allan Lean.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Bridge Creek, a Tributary of Lake Chelan, Wash.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_287">286</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by F. N. Kneeland, Northampton, Mass.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Kootenai Lake, from Proctor, B. C.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_289">288</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Allan Lean, Nelson.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Lower Arrow Lake, B. C.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_291">290</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Allan Lean, Nelson.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Bridal Veil Falls on Columbia River</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_293">292</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[Pg xvi]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Shoshone Falls, in Snake River, 212 Feet High</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_295">294</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Lake Pend Oreille, Idaho</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_297">296</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Lake C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene, Idaho</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_297">296</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">The &#8220;Shadowy St. Joe,&#8221; Idaho</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_298">298</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">On the C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene River, Idaho</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_301">300</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Gorge of Chelan River, the Outlet of Lake Chelan</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_303">302</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Head of Lake Chelan&mdash;Looking Up Stehekin Ca&ntilde;on</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_304">304</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Cascade Pass at Head of Stehekin River, Wash.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_307">306</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Doubtful Lake, Cascade Range, Washington, near Lake Chelan</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_309">308</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane, Wash.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Horseshoe Basin through a Rock Gap, Stehekin Ca&ntilde;on</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_311">310</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Lake Chelan</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_312">312</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Harvest Outfit, Dayton, Wash.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_315">314</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent"><i>Sunset Magazine.</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Combined Harvester, near Walla Walla</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_315">314</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Chapman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Inland Empire System&#8217;s Power Plant, near Spokane, 20,000 Horse-Power</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_317">316</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xvii" id="Page_xvii">[Pg xvii]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Lower Spokane Falls</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_317">316</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Ca&ntilde;on of the Stehekin, near Lake Chelan</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_318">318</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Memorial Building, Whitman College, Walla Walla</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_320">320</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Chapman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Starting the Ploughs in the Wheat Land, Walla Walla, Wash.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_323">322</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Chapman, Walla Walla.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">On the Historic Walla Walla River</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_325">324</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Chapman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Blalock Fruit Ranch of a Thousand Acres at Walla Walla, Wash.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_327">326</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Chapman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Witch&#8217;s Head, near Old Wishram Village. The Indian Superstition is that<br />these Eyes will Follow any Unfaithful Woman</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_329">328</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">By courtesy of Lee Moorehouse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Cabbage Rock, Four Miles North of the Dalles</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_331">330</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Lee Moorehouse, Pendleton.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Eagle Rock, just above Shoshone Falls in Snake River</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_333">332</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Stehekin Ca&ntilde;on, 5000 Feet Deep</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_335">334</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Steamer &#8220;Dalles City,&#8221; Descending the Cascades of the Columbia</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_337">336</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Memaloose Island, Columbia River</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_339">338</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Horseshoe Basin near Lake Chelan, Wash.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_341">340</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xviii" id="Page_xviii">[Pg xviii]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Castle Rock, Columbia River</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_343">342</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Copyright, Kiser Photograph Co., 1902.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Lyman Glacier and Glacier Lake in North Star Park, near Lake Chelan</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_344">344</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Hunters on Lake Chelan, with their Spoils</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_346">346</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Morning&#8217;s Catch on the Touchet, near Dayton, Wash.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_346">346</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent"><i>Sunset Magazine.</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Oneonta Gorge&mdash;Looking in</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_349">348</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Cape Horn, Columbia River&mdash;Looking up</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_351">350</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Looking up the Columbia River from the Cliff above Multnomah Falls, Ore.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_353">352</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Copyright, 1902, by Kiser Photograph Co.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Spokane Falls and City, 1886</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_355">354</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Spokane Falls and City, 1908</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_355">354</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">In the Heart of the Cascade Mountains, above Lake Chelan, Wash.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_361">360</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Birch-Tree Channel, Upper Columbia, near Golden, B. C.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_363">362</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo by C. F. Yates, Golden.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Typical Mountain Meadow, Stehekin Valley, Wash.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_365">364</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xix" id="Page_xix">[Pg xix]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">High School, Walla Walla, Wash.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_367">366</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Chapman, Walla Walla.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Lake Chelan</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_369">368</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by F. N. Kneeland.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">On the Banks of the Columbia River, near Hood River</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_371">370</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Rooster Rock, Columbia River&mdash;Looking up</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_373">372</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Band of Elk on W. P. Reser&#8217;s Ranch, Walla Walla, Wash.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_375">374</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by W. D. Chapman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Oregon City in 1845</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_377">376</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">From an old print.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Fort Vancouver in 1845</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_377">376</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Lone Rock, Columbia River, about Fifty Miles East of Portland</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_379">378</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Willamette Falls, Oregon City, Ore.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_381">380</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Among the Big Spruce Trees, near Astoria, Oregon</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_383">382</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Woodfield, Astoria.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Portland in 1908. Mt. St. Helens Sixty-Five Miles Distant</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_385">384</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Portland Harbour, Oregon</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_387">386</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Fish River Road in Upper Columbia Region, B. C.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_389">388</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Trueman, Victoria.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xx" id="Page_xx">[Pg xx]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Multnomah Falls, 840 Feet High, on South Side of Columbia River about<br />Sixty Miles above Portland</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_391">390</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Chinook Salmon, Weight 80 Pounds</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_393">392</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Woodfield, Astoria.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Lake Adela, near Head of Columbia River, B. C.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_394">394</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by C. F. Yates.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Bridal Veil Bluff, Columbia River, Oregon</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_396">396</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Band of Kootenai Indians, B. C.</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_398">398</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="dent">Photo. by Allan Lean, Nelson.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Maps</span></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#maps"><i>At End</i></a></td></tr></table>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="PART_I" id="PART_I"></a>PART I<br />
+The History</h2>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I</h3>
+<p class="chapter">The Land where the River Flows</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Contrasts&mdash;The Two Islands&mdash;Uplift&mdash;Volcanic Action&mdash;Flood&mdash;Age of
+Ice&mdash;Story of Wishpoosh and Creation of the Tribes&mdash;Outline of the Mountain Systems&mdash;Peculiar Interlocking of the Columbia and the
+Kootenai&mdash;The Cascade Range&mdash;The Inland Empire&mdash;The Valleys West of the Cascade Mountains&mdash;The Forests&mdash;The Climate&mdash;The
+Native Races and Some of their Myths&mdash;Story of the Kamiah Monster&mdash;The Tomanowas Bridge at the Cascades&mdash;Origin of Three Great
+Mountains&mdash;The Chinook Wind&mdash;Myths of the Unseen Life&mdash;Klickitat Story of the Spirit Baby&mdash;Beauty of the Native Names.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">Wonderfully</span> varied though rivers are, each has a physiognomy of its own.
+Each preserves its characteristics even in the midst of constant
+diversity. We recognise it, as we recognise a person in different changes
+of dress. The Ohio has one face, the Hudson another, and each keeps its
+essential identity. The traveller would not confuse the Rhine with the
+Danube, or the Nile with the Volga.</p>
+
+<p>Even more distinctive than most rivers in form and feature is the
+Columbia, the old Oregon that now hears far other sounds than &#8220;his own
+dashings,&#8221; the River of the West, the Thegayo, the Rio de los Reyes, the
+Rio Estrachos, the Rio de Aguilar, the many-named river which unites all
+parts of the Pacific North-west. It is to its records of romance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> and
+heroism, of legend and history, as well as to its alternating scenes of
+stormy grandeur and tranquil majesty that the reader&#8217;s attention is now
+invited. Though among the latest of American rivers to be brought under
+the control of civilised men, the Columbia was among the earliest to
+attract the interest of the explorers of all nations, and the struggles of
+international diplomacy over possession were among the most momentous in
+history. The distance of the Columbia from the centres of population and
+the difficulty of reaching it made its development slow, and for this
+reason its pioneer stage lasted longer than would otherwise have been the
+case. In this part of its history there was a record of pathos, tragedy,
+and achievement not surpassed in any of the annals of our country, while,
+in its later phases, the North-west has had the sweep and energy of growth
+and power characteristic of genuine American development. Finally, by
+reason of scenic grandeur, absorbing interest of physical features, the
+majesty and mystery of its origin in the greatest of American mountains,
+the swift might of its flow through some of the wildest as well as some of
+the most beautiful regions of the globe, and at the last by the peculiar
+grandeur of its entrance into the greatest of the oceans, this &#8220;Achilles
+of Rivers&#8221; attracts alike historian, scientist, poet, statesman, and lover
+of nature.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+<p>&#8220;A land of old upheaven from the abyss,&#8221; a land of deepest deeps and
+highest heights, of richest verdure here, and barest desolation there, of
+dense forest on one side, and wide extended prairies on the other; a land,
+in brief, of contrasts, contrasts in contour, hues,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> productions, and
+history;&mdash;such is that imperial domain watered by the Columbia River and
+its affluents. To the artist, the poet, the scientist, and the sportsman,
+this region presents noble and varied scenes of shore, of mountain, of
+river, of lake, while to the romancer and historian it offers a wealth of
+native legend and of record from the heroic ages of American history.</p>
+
+<p>As a fit introduction to the picture of the land as it now appears, there
+may be presented a brief record of the manner in which it was wrought into
+its present form. Professor Thomas Condon of Oregon thought that the first
+land to rise on the Pacific Coast was composed of two islands, one in the
+region of the Siskiyou Mountains of Northern California and Southern
+Oregon, and the other in the heart of what are now the Blue Mountains and
+Saw-tooth Mountains of North-eastern Oregon, South-eastern Washington, and
+Western Idaho. Other geologists have doubted the existence of the second
+of these two islands.</p>
+
+<p>Those islands, if both existed, were the nuclei of the Pacific Coast
+region. The rock consisted of the earlier granite, sandstone, and
+limestone crust of the earth. For long ages these two islands, washed by
+the warm seas of that early age, and bearing a life now found in the
+tropics, were slowly rising and widening their boundaries in all
+directions.</p>
+
+<p>Next, or perhaps as early, to respond to the pressure of the shrinking
+crust of the earth and to appear above the sea, was the vast cordon of
+pinnacled peaks which compose the present Okanogan and Chelan uplift,
+granite and porphyry, broken by volcanic outflow. These peaks are veined
+with gold, silver, and copper.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>That first age of mountain uplift was ended by the coming on of the age of
+fire. The granite upheaval of the Blue and the Cascade Mountains was blown
+apart and cracked asunder by volcanic eruption and seismic force. A vast
+outflow of basalt and andesite swept westward from the Blue Mountains to
+meet a similar outflow moving eastward from the Cascades. Thus, throughout
+the Columbia Basin, the surface is mainly of volcanic rock overlying the
+shattered fragments of the original earth crust. At many points, however,
+the primeval granite or sandstone surface was not covered, while at
+frequent intervals the breaking forth of the fiery floods transformed
+those original rocks into various forms of gneiss, porphyry, and marble.
+But the greatest result of the age of volcanic outflow was the elevation
+of the stupendous isolated snow peaks which now constitute so striking a
+feature of Columbian landscapes.</p>
+
+<p>With the close of the age of fire, the mountain chains were in place, as
+they now stand, but the plains and valleys were not yet fashioned. Another
+series of forces must needs come to elaborate the rude outlines of the
+land. And so came on the third great age, the age of flood. The upheaval
+of the mingled granite and volcanic masses of the Cascade and Blue
+Mountains, while at the same time the Rockies were undergoing the same
+process, imprisoned a vast sea over the region now known by Westerners as
+the Inland Empire. In the depths of this sea the sediment from a thousand
+torrents was deposited to fashion the smooth and level valleys of the
+Yakima, the Walla Walla, the Spokane, and lesser streams, while a similar
+process fashioned the valleys of the Willamette and other<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> streams between
+the Cascades and the Coast Mountains westward.</p>
+
+<p>But while the age of flood was shaping the great valley systems, a fourth
+age&mdash;the age of ice&mdash;was working still other changes upon the plastic
+land. The mountains had been reared by upheaval and volcanic outflow to a
+stupendous height. Then they became glaciated. The whole Northern
+Hemisphere, in fact, took on the character of the present Greenland.
+Enormous glaciers descended the flanks of the mountains, gouging and
+ploughing out the abysmal ca&ntilde;ons which now awe the beholder, and scooping
+out the deeps where Chelan, C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene, Pend Oreille, Kaniksu, and
+other great lakes delight the vision of the present day.</p>
+
+<p>Such were the forces that wrought the physical features of the land where
+the River flows. We do not mean to convey the impression that there was a
+single age of each, and that they followed each other in regular
+chronological order. As a matter of fact there were several eras of each,
+interlocked with each other: upheaval, fire, flood, and frost. But as the
+resultant of all, the Columbia Basin assumed its present form. The great
+forces which have thus fashioned this land manifested themselves on a
+scale of vast energy. Evidences of upheaval, fire, flood, and glacier are
+exhibited on every side, and these evidences constitute a testimony of
+geological history of the most interesting nature. Long before this record
+of the rocks had found a white reader, the native red man had read the
+open pages, and interpreted them in the light of his ardent fancy.</p>
+
+<p>The Indian conception of the flood, involving also<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> that of the creation
+of the native tribes, is one of the most fantastic native legends. This is
+the story of the great beaver, Wishpoosh, of Lake Kichelos. According to
+this myth the beaver Wishpoosh inhabited that lake on the summit of the
+Cascade Mountains, the source of the Yakima River.</p>
+
+<p>In the time of the Watetash (animal people) before the advent of men, the
+king beaver, Wishpoosh, of enormous size and voracious appetite, was in
+the evil habit of seizing and devouring the lesser creatures and even the
+vegetation. So destructive did he become that Speelyei, the coyote god of
+the mid-Columbia region, undertook to check his rapacities.</p>
+
+<p>The struggle only made the monster more insatiate, and in his wrath he
+tore out the banks of the lake. The gathered floods swept on down the
+ca&ntilde;on and formed another great lake in the region now known as the
+Kittitas Valley.</p>
+
+<p>But the struggle between Wishpoosh and Speelyei did not end, and the
+former in his mad fury went on thrashing around in this greater lake. For
+a long time the rocky barriers of the Umtanum restrained the flood, but at
+last they gave way before the onslaughts of the wrathful beaver, and the
+loosened waters swept on down and filled the great basin now occupied by
+the fruit and garden ranches of the Cowiche, Natchees, and Atahnum. In
+like fashion the restraining wall at the gap just below Yakima city was
+torn out, and a yet greater lake was formed over all the space where we
+now see the level plains of the Simcoe and Toppenish. The next lake formed
+in the process covered the yet vaster region at the juncture of the
+Yakima, Snake and Columbia rivers. For a long<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> time it was dammed in by
+the Umatilla highlands, but in process of time it, too, was drained by the
+bursting of the rocky wall before the well-directed attacks of Wishpoosh.
+The yet greater lake, the greatest of all, now formed between the Umatilla
+on the east and the Cascade Mountains on the west. But even the towering
+wall of the Cascades gave way in time and the accumulated floods poured on
+without further hindrance to the open sea.</p>
+
+<p>Thus was the series of great lakes drained, the level valleys left, and
+the Great River suffered to flow in its present course. But there is a
+sequel to the story of the flood. For Wishpoosh, being now in the ocean,
+laid about him with such fury that he devoured the fish and whales and so
+threatened all creation that Speelyei perceived that the time had come to
+end it all. Transforming himself into a floating branch, he drifted to
+Wishpoosh and was swallowed. Once inside the monster, the wily god resumed
+his proper size and power; and with his keen-edged knife proceeded to cut
+the vitals of the belligerent beaver, until at last all life ceased, and
+the huge carcass was cast up by the tide on Clatsop beach, just south of
+the mouth of the Great River. And now what to do with the carcass?
+Speelyei solved the problem by cutting it up and from its different parts
+fashioning the tribes as each part was adapted. From the head he made the
+Nez Perc&eacute;s, great in council and oratory. From the arms came the Cayuses,
+powerful with the bow and war-club. The Klickitats were the product of the
+legs, and they were the runners of the land. The belly was transformed
+into the gluttonous Chinooks. At the last there was left an indiscriminate
+mass of hair and gore. This Speelyei hurled up<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> the far distance to the
+east, and out of it sprung the Snake River Indians.</p>
+
+<p>Such is the native physiography and anthropogenesis of the land of the
+Oregon.</p>
+
+<p>If now one could rise on the pinions of the Chinook wind (the warm south
+wind of the Columbia Basin, of which more anon), and from the southern
+springs of the Owyhee and the Malheur could wing his way to the snowy
+peaks in British Columbia, from whose fastnesses there issues the foaming
+torrent of Canoe River, the most northerly of all the tributaries of the
+Great River, he would obtain, in a noble panorama, a view of the land
+where the River flows, in its present aspect, as fashioned by the
+elemental forces of which we have spoken. But not to many is it given thus
+to be &#8220;horsed on the sightless couriers of the air,&#8221; and we must needs use
+imagination in lieu of them. Even a map will be the safest guide for most.
+Inspection of the map will show that the distance to which we have
+referred covers twelve degrees of latitude, while the distance from the
+source of the Snake River in the Yellowstone National Park to the Pacific
+requires a span of fifteen degrees of longitude. The south-eastern part of
+this vast area occupying Southern Idaho is mainly an arid plain; arid,
+indeed, in its natural condition, but, when touched by the vivifying
+waters in union with the ardent sun, it blossoms like a garden of the
+Lord. Upon these vast plains where the volcanic dust has drifted for ages,
+now looking so dismal in their monotonous garb of sage-brush, the millions
+of the future will some time live in peace and plenty, each under his own
+vine and apple-tree. On the eastern boundary, all the way from Western<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>
+Wyoming to Eastern British Columbia, stand cordons of stupendous
+mountains, the western outposts of the great Continental Divide. These
+constitute one spur after another, from whose profound ca&ntilde;ons issues river
+after river to swell the torrents of the turbid and impetuous Snake on its
+thousand-mile journey to join the Columbia. Among these tributary streams
+are the Payette, the Bois&eacute;, the Salmon, and the Clearwater. Yet farther
+north, beyond the system of the Snake, are the Bitter Root, the Missoula,
+the Pend Oreille, the Spokane, and the Kootenai (we follow here the
+American spelling, the Canadian being Kootenay), with almost innumerable
+affluents, draining the huge labyrinths of the Bitter Root Mountains and
+the Silver Bow.</p>
+
+<p>Thus our northward flight carries us to the international boundary in
+latitude 49 degrees.</p>
+
+<p>Far beyond that parallel stretches chain after chain of divisions of the
+great Continental Range, the Selkirks, the Gold Range, Purcell&#8217;s Range,
+sky-piercing heights, snow-clad and glaciated. Up and down these
+interlocking chains the Columbia and the Kootenai, with their great lakes
+and unexplored tributaries, seem to be playing at hide-and-seek with each
+other. These rivers form here one of the most singular geographical
+phenomena of the world, for so strangely are the parallel chains of
+mountains tilted that the Kootenai, rising in a small lake on the western
+flank of the main chain of the Canadian Rockies and flowing south, passes
+within a mile of the source of the Columbia at Columbia Lake, separated
+only by a nearly level valley. Connection, in fact, is so easy that a
+canal once joined the two rivers. From that point of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>contact the Kootenai
+flows far south into Idaho, then makes a grand wheel to the north-west,
+forming Kootenai Lake on the way, then wheeling again in its tortuous
+course to the west, it joins the greater stream in the midst of the
+majestic mountain chains which stand guard over the Arrow Lakes. And
+meanwhile where has the Columbia itself been journeying? After the parting
+from the Kootenai it flows directly north-west between two stupendous
+chains of mountains. Reaching its highest northern point in latitude 52
+degrees, where it receives the Canoe River, which has come two hundred
+miles or more from the north, it turns sharply westward, finding a
+passageway cleft in the mountain wall. Thence making a grand wheel toward
+the south, it casts its turbid floods into the long expanse of the Arrow
+Lakes, from which it emerges, clear and bright, soon to join the Kootenai.
+And how far have they journeyed since they parted? The Columbia about six
+hundred miles, and the Kootenai hardly less, though having passed within a
+mile of each other, flowing in opposite directions.</p>
+
+<p>It will be readily seen from this description that the mountains which
+feed the Columbian system of rivers on the east and north, are of singular
+grandeur and interest. But now as we bear our way southward again we
+discover that another mountain system, yet grander and of more curious
+interest, forms the western boundary of the upper Columbia Basin. This is
+the Cascade Range. Sublime, majestic, mysterious, this noble chain of
+mountains, with its tiaras of ice, its girdles of waterfalls, its
+draperies of forest, its jewels of lakes, must make one search long to
+find its parallel in any land for all the general features of mountain
+charm. But<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> over and beyond those more usual delights of the mountains,
+the Cascade Range has a unique feature, one in which it stands unrivalled
+among all the mountains of the earth, with the exception possibly of the
+Andes. This is the feature of the great isolated snow peaks, stationed
+like sentinels at intervals of from thirty to sixty miles all the way from
+the British line to California. There is nothing like this elsewhere on
+the North American continent. The Sierras of California are sublime, but
+their great peaks are not isolated monarchs like those of the Cascades.
+The high Sierras are blended together in one mountain wall, in which no
+single peak dominates any wide extended space. But in the long array of
+the Cascades, five hundred miles and more from the international boundary
+to the California line, one glorious peak after another uplifts the banner
+and sets its regal crown toward sunrise or sunset, king of earth and air
+to the border where the shadow of the next mountain monarch mingles with
+its own. Hence these great Cascade peaks have an individuality which gives
+them a kind of living personality in the life of any one who has lived for
+any length of time within sight of them.</p>
+
+<p>From the north, moving south, we might gaze at these great peaks, and find
+no two alike. Baker&mdash;how much finer is the native name, Kulshan, the Great
+White Watcher&mdash;first on the north; Shuksan next, the place where the
+storm-winds gather, in the native tongue; then Glacier Peak, with its
+girdle of ice, thirteen great glaciers; Stewart next with its dizzy horn
+of rock set in a field of snow; then the great king-peak of all, Rainier,
+better named by the natives, Takhoma, the fountain breast of milk-white
+waters; and after this,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> Adams, or in the Indian, Klickitat, with St.
+Helens or Loowit near at hand on the west; then, across the Great River,
+Hood or Wiyeast, with its pinnacled crest; next southward, Jefferson with
+its sharp chimney whose top has never yet been touched by human foot; yet
+beyond, the marvellous group of the Three Sisters, each with its separate
+personality and yet all together combining in one superb whole; then Mt.
+Scott, Mt. Thielson, Diamond Peak, Mt. Pitt, and with them we might well
+include the truncated cone of Mt. Mazama, once the lordliest of the chain,
+but by some mighty convulsion of nature, shorn of crown and head, and now
+bearing on its summit instead the most singular body of water, Crater
+Lake, on all the American continent.</p>
+
+<p>Fifteen is the number of the great peaks named, but there are dozens of
+lesser heights, snow-crowned and regal. The great Cascade chain is,
+therefore, the noblest and most significant feature of the topography of
+the land of the Columbia. Between the Rocky Mountains and the Cascades
+lies what is locally known as the Inland Empire, mainly a continuous
+prairie or series of prairies and valleys, wheat land, orchard land,
+garden land, fertile, beautiful, attractive, broken by an occasional
+mountain spur, as the irregular mass of the Blue Mountains, but
+substantially an inhabited land, reaching from Colville, Spokane, and the
+Okanogan on the north to the Klamath valleys on the south, a region five
+hundred miles long by two hundred wide, a goodly land, one difficult to
+excel in all the potentialities of use for human needs.</p>
+
+<p>Such are the distinguishing features of the Columbia Basin on the east
+side of the Cascade Mountains.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>To the west of those mountains is another vast expanse of interior
+valleys, not so large indeed and not more fertile, but even more
+beautiful, and by reason of earlier settlement and contiguity to the
+ocean, better developed.</p>
+
+<p>This series of valleys is enclosed between the Cascade Mountains and the
+Coast Range, and in a general way parallels the Inland Empire already
+described. But this statement should be qualified by the explanation that
+North-western Washington consists of the Puget Sound Basin, which is a
+distinct geographical system, while South-western Oregon consists of the
+Umpqua and Rogue River valleys, and these valleys though commercially and
+politically a part of the Columbia system, are geographically separate,
+since they debouch directly into the Pacific Ocean. There is left,
+therefore, for the Columbia region proper west of the Cascade Mountains,
+the Willamette Valley in Oregon, and the valleys of the Lewis, Kalama, and
+Cowlitz in Washington, with several smaller valleys on each side. The
+Willamette Valley is the great distinguishing feature of this part of the
+Columbia Basin. A more attractive region is hard to find. Mountains
+snow-clad and majestic, the great peaks of the Cascades already described,
+guard it on the east, while westward the gentler slopes of the Coast Range
+separate it from the sea. Between the two ranges lies the valley, two
+hundred miles long by about a hundred broad, including the foot-hills, a
+succession of level plains, oak-crowned hills, and fertile bottoms. Not
+Greece nor Italy nor the Vale of Cashmere can surpass this earthly
+paradise in all the features that compose the beautiful and grand in
+nature.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>Geologists tell us that this Willamette region was once a counterpart of
+Puget Sound, only with less depth of water, and that, as the result of
+centuries of change, the old-time Willamette Sound has become the
+Willamette Valley. It has now become the most thickly settled farming
+region of the Columbia Basin, and, as its fitting metropolis, Portland
+sits at the gateway of the Willamette and Columbia, the &#8220;Rose City,&#8221;
+handsomest of all Western cities, to welcome the commerce of the world.</p>
+
+<p>The valleys on the Washington side of the Columbia make up together a
+region of great beauty, fertility, and productiveness, perhaps a hundred
+miles square, and, though yet but partially developed, contain many
+beautiful homes.</p>
+
+<p>The larger part of the Columbia Valley west of the Cascade Mountains is,
+in its natural state, densely timbered. Here are found &#8220;the continuous
+woods where rolls the Oregon and hears no sound but his own dashings.&#8221;
+These great fir, spruce, cedar, and pine forests, extending a thousand
+miles along the Pacific Coast from Central California to the Straits of
+Fuca (and indeed they continue, though the trees gradually diminish in
+size, for nearly another thousand miles up the Alaska coast), constitute
+the world&#8217;s largest timber supply. The demands upon it have been
+tremendous during the past twenty years, and the stately growths of
+centuries have vanished largely from all places in the near vicinity of
+shipping points. Yet one can still find primeval woods where the coronals
+of green are borne three hundred feet above the damp and perfumed earth,
+and where the pillars of the wood sustain so continuous a canopy of
+foliage that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> the sunlight is stopped or filters through only in pale and
+watery rays. Hence all manner of vines and shrubs grow with almost tropic
+profusion, though with weak and straggling stems.</p>
+
+<p>Throughout the entire Pacific North-west the soil is of extraordinary
+fertility. It is largely of volcanic dust as fine as flour and seems to
+contain the constituents of plant life in inexhaustible abundance. Even in
+the arid belts of Eastern Oregon, where to the eye of the stranger the
+appearance is of a hopeless waste, those same elements of plant food
+exist, and with water every manner of tree or vine or flower bursts
+quickly into perfect life.</p>
+
+<p>The climate of the Columbia Basin is a puzzle to the stranger, but in most
+of its aspects it quickly becomes an equal delight. As is well known, the
+Japan ocean current exercises upon the Pacific Coast an effect similar to
+that of the Gulf Stream on Ireland and England. Hence the states of the
+Columbia Valley are much warmer in winter than regions of the same
+latitude on the Atlantic Coast or in the Mississippi Valley. Though the
+average temperature is higher, yet it is cooler in summer on the Pacific
+Coast than on the Atlantic. The Pacific climate has much less of extremes.
+The State of Washington has about the same isothermal line as North
+Carolina. There is, however, another feature of the Columbia climate not
+so well known to non-residents, which is worthy of a passing paragraph.
+This is the division of the country by the Cascade Mountains into a humid
+western section and a dry eastern one. The mountain wall intercepts the
+larger part of the vapour rising from the Pacific and flying eastward, and
+these warm masses<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> of vapour are condensed by the icy barrier and fall in
+rain on the western side. Hence Western Oregon and Washington are damp and
+soft, with frequent clouds and fogs. The rainfall, though varying much, is
+in most places from forty to fifty inches a year. But east of the mountain
+wall which has &#8220;milked the clouds,&#8221; the air is clear and bright, the sun
+shines most of the year from cloudless skies, and there seems to be more
+of tingle and electricity in the atmosphere. The rainfall ranges from ten
+to thirty inches, and in the drier parts vegetation does not flourish
+without irrigation.</p>
+
+<p>Any view of primeval Oregon would be incomplete without a glimpse of the
+native race, that melancholy people, possessed of so many interesting and
+even noble traits, whose sad lot it has mainly been to struggle against
+the advent of a civilisation which they could not understand nor resist,
+and before which they have melted away in pitiful impotency. But they have
+at least had the highest dignity of defeat, for they have died fighting.
+They have realised the conception of the Roman Emperor: &#8220;<i>Me stantem mori
+oportet</i>.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>The Oregon Indians have essentially the same characteristic traits as
+other Indians, secretiveness, patience, vindictiveness, stoicism; and, in
+their best state, fidelity and boundless generosity to friends.</p>
+
+<p>The poor broken fragments of the once populous tribes along the Columbia
+cannot but affect the present-day observer with pity. Most of the tangible
+memorials of this fallen race have vanished with them. Not many of the
+conquerors have been sympathetic or even rational in their treatment of
+the Indians. Hence memorials of memory and imagination which might<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> have
+been drawn from them and treasured up have vanished with them into the
+darkness. Yet many Indian legends have been preserved in one manner and
+another, and these are sufficient to convince us that the native races are
+of the same nature as ourselves. Some of the legends which students of
+Indian lore have gathered, will, perhaps, prove interesting to the reader.</p>
+
+<p>A quaint Nez-Perc&eacute; myth accounts for the creation as follows: There was
+during the time of the Watetash a monster living in the country of Kamiah
+in Central Idaho. This monster had the peculiar property of an
+irresistible breath, so that when it inhaled, the winds and grass and
+trees and even different animals would be sucked into its devouring maw.
+The Coyote god, being grieved for the destruction wrought by this monster,
+made a coil of rope out of grass and with this went to the summit of
+Wallowa Mountains to test the suction power of the monster. Appearing like
+a tiny spear of grass upon the mountain, he blew a challenge to the
+monster. Descrying the small object in the distance Kamiah began to draw
+the air inward. But strange to say, Coyote did not move. &#8220;Ugh, that is a
+great medicine,&#8221; said the monster. Coyote now took his station upon the
+mountains of the Seven Devils, a good deal closer, and blew his challenge
+again. Again the Kamiah monster tried to breathe so deeply as to draw the
+strange challenger into his grasp, but again he failed. &#8220;He is a very big
+medicine,&#8221; he said once more. And now Coyote mounted the top of the Salmon
+River Mountains, somewhere near the Buffalo Hump of the present time, and
+again the monster&#8217;s breath failed to draw him. The baffled Kamiah was now
+sure that this was most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> extraordinary medicine. In reality, Coyote had
+each time held himself by a grass rope tied to the mountain.</p>
+
+<p>Coyote now called into counsel Kotskots, the fox. Providing him with five
+knives, Kotskots advised Coyote to force an entrance into the interior of
+the monster. Entering in, Coyote found people in all stages of emaciation,
+evidently having had their life gradually sucked out of them. It was also
+so cold and dark in the interior that they were chilled into almost a
+condition of insensibility. Looking about him, Coyote began to see great
+chunks of fat and pitch in the vitals of the monster, and accordingly he
+rubbed sticks together and started a fire, which being fed with the fat
+and pitch, soon grew into a cheerful glow. Now, armed with his knives, he
+ascended the vast interior until he reached the heart. He had already
+directed Kotskots to rouse up and gather together all the emaciated
+stowaways and provide that when the monster was cut open they should see
+how to rush out into the sunlight. Great as was the monster Kamiah, he
+could not stop the persistent hacking away at his heart which Coyote now
+entered upon. When the fifth knife was nearly gone, the heart dropped down
+and Kamiah collapsed into a lifeless mass. The people under the guidance
+of Kotskots, burst out into the sunshine and scattered themselves abroad.
+It must be remembered that these were animal people, not human. Coyote
+called upon them to wait until he should have shown them a last wonder,
+for, cutting the monster in pieces, he now began to fashion from the
+pieces a new race of beings to be called men. The portion which he cut
+from the head he flung northward, and of this was fashioned the Flathead
+tribe. The feet he cast eastward,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> making them the Blackfeet. So he
+continued, making new tribes here and there. But at the last Kotskots
+interposed an objection. &#8220;You have made no people,&#8221; he said, &#8220;for the
+valley of the Lapwai, which is the most beautiful of all.&#8221; Realising the
+force of the suggestion, Coyote mixed the blood of the monster with water
+and sprinkled it in a rain over the entire valley of the Clearwater. From
+these drops of blood and water, the Nez Perc&eacute; tribe was formed. The heart
+of the monster is still to be seen by all travellers in that country,
+being a heart-shaped hill in the valley of Kamiah.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps the most perfect and beautiful of all Indian fire myths of the
+Columbia, is that connected with the famous &#8220;tomanowas bridge&#8221; at the
+Cascades. This myth not only treats of fire, but it also endeavours to
+account for the peculiar formation of the river and for the great snow
+peaks in the near vicinity. This myth has various forms, and in order that
+it may be the better understood, we shall say a word with respect to the
+peculiar physical features in that part of the Columbia. The River, after
+having traversed over a thousand miles from its source in the heart of the
+great Rocky Mountains of Canada, has cleft the Cascade Range asunder with
+a ca&ntilde;on three thousand feet in depth. While generally swift, that portion
+between The Dalles and the Cascades is deep and sluggish. There are,
+moreover, sunken forests on both sides visible at low water, which seem
+plainly to indicate that at that point the river was dammed up by some
+great rock slide or volcanic convulsion. Some of the Indians affirm that
+their grandfathers have told them that there was a time when the river at
+that point<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> passed under an immense natural bridge, and that there were no
+obstructions to the passage of boats under the bridge. At the present time
+there is a cascade of forty feet at that point. This is now overcome by
+government locks. Among other evidences of some such actual occurrence as
+the Indians relate, is the fact that the banks at that point are gradually
+sliding into the river. The prodigious volume of the Columbia, which here
+rises from fifty to seventy-five feet during the summer flood, is
+continually eating into the banks. The railroad has slid several inches a
+year at this point toward the river and requires frequent readjustment. It
+is obvious at a slight inspection that this weird and sublime point has
+been the scene of terrific volcanic and probably seismic action. One
+Indian legend, probably the best known of their stories, is to the effect
+that the downfall of the bridge and consequent damming of the river was
+due to a battle between Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams,&mdash;or, some say, Mt. St.
+Helens&mdash;in which Mt. Hood hurled a great rock at his antagonist; but,
+falling short of the mark, the rock demolished the bridge instead. This
+event has been made use of by Frederick Balch in his story, <i>The Bridge of
+the Gods</i>.</p>
+
+<p>But the finer, though less known legend, which unites both the physical
+conformation of the Cascades and the three great snow mountains of Hood,
+Adams, and St. Helens, with the origin of fire, is to this effect.
+According to the Klickitats, there was once a father and two sons who came
+from the east down the Columbia to the region in which Dalles City is now
+located, and there the two sons quarrelled as to who should possess the
+land. The father, to settle the dispute,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> shot two arrows, one to the
+north and one to the west. He told one son to find the arrow to the north
+and the other the one to the west, and there to settle and bring up their
+families. The first son, going northward, over what was then a beautiful
+plain, became the progenitor of the Klickitat tribe, while the other son
+was the founder of the great Multnomah nation of the Willamette Valley. To
+separate the two tribes more effectively, Sahale, the Great Spirit, reared
+the chain of the Cascades, though without any great peaks, and for a long
+time all things went in harmony. But for convenience&#8217; sake, Sahale had
+created the great tomanowas bridge under which the waters of the Columbia
+flowed, and on this bridge he had stationed a witch woman called Loowit,
+who was to take charge of the fire. This was the only fire in the world.
+As time passed on Loowit observed the deplorable condition of the Indians,
+destitute of fire and the conveniences which it might bring. She therefore
+besought Sahale to allow her to bestow fire upon the Indians. Sahale,
+greatly pleased by the faithfulness and benevolence of Loowit, finally
+granted her request. The lot of the Indians was wonderfully improved by
+the acquisition of fire. They began to make better lodges and clothes and
+had a variety of food and implements, and, in short, were marvellously
+benefited by the bounteous gift.</p>
+
+<p>But Sahale, in order to show his appreciation of the care with which
+Loowit had guarded the sacred fire, now determined to offer her any gift
+she might desire as a reward. Accordingly, in response to his offer,
+Loowit asked that she be transformed into a young and beautiful girl. This
+was accordingly <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>affected, and now, as might have been expected, all the
+Indian chiefs fell deeply in love with the guardian of the tomanowas
+bridge. Loowit paid little heed to any of them, until finally there came
+two chiefs, one from the north called Klickitat and one from the south
+called Wiyeast. Loowit was uncertain which of these two she most desired,
+and as a result a bitter strife arose between the two. This waxed hotter
+and hotter, until, with their respective warriors, they entered upon a
+desperate war. The land was ravaged, all their new comforts were marred,
+and misery and wretchedness ensued. Sahale repented that he had allowed
+Loowit to bestow fire upon the Indians, and determined to undo all his
+work in so far as he could. Accordingly he broke down the tomanowas
+bridge, which dammed up the river with an impassable reef, and put to
+death Loowit, Klickitat, and Wiyeast. But, inasmuch as they had been noble
+and beautiful in life, he determined to give them a fitting commemoration
+after death. Therefore he reared over them as monuments, the great snow
+peaks; over Loowit, what we now call Mt. St. Helens; over Wiyeast, the
+modern Mt. Hood; and, above Klickitat, the great dome which we now call
+Mt. Adams.</p>
+
+<p>Of the miscellaneous myths which pertain to the forces of nature, one of
+the best is that accounting for the Chinook wind. All people who have
+lived long in Oregon or Washington have a conception of that marvellous
+warm wind which in January and February suddenly sends them almost summer
+heat amid snow banks and ice-locked streams, and causes all nature to
+rejoice as with a resurrection of spring time. Scarcely anything can be
+imagined in nature more picturesque<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> and dramatic than this Chinook wind.
+The thermometer may be down nearly to zero, a foot of snow may rest like a
+pall on the earth, or a deadly fog may wrap the earth, when suddenly, as
+if by the breath of inspiration, the fog parts, the peaks of the mountains
+may be seen half stripped of snow, and then, roaring and whistling, the
+warm south wind comes like an army. The snow begins to drip like a pressed
+sponge, the thermometer goes with a jump to sixty, and within two hours we
+find ourselves in the climate of Southern California. No wonder the
+Indians personified this wind. We personify it ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>The Yakima account of the Chinook wind was to the effect that it was
+caused by five brothers who lived on the Columbia River, not far from the
+present town of Columbus. Now there is at rare intervals in this country a
+cold north-east wind, which the Indians on the lower Columbia call the
+Walla Walla wind because it comes from the north-east. The cold wind was
+caused by another set of brothers. Both these sets of brothers had
+grandparents who lived near what is now Umatilla. The two groups of
+brothers were continually fighting each other, sweeping one way or the
+other over the country, alternately freezing or thawing it, blowing down
+trees and causing the dust to fly in clouds, and rendering the country
+generally very uncomfortable. Finally, the Walla Walla brothers sent a
+challenge to the Chinook brothers to undertake a wrestling match, the
+condition being that those who were defeated should forfeit their lives.
+It was agreed that Speelyei should act as umpire and should inflict the
+penalty by decapitating the losers. Speelyei secretly advised the
+grandparents of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> the Chinook brothers to throw oil on the wrestling ground
+so that their sons might not fall. In like manner he secretly advised the
+grandparents of the Walla Walla brothers to throw ice on the ground.
+Between the ice and the oil it was so slippery that it would be hard for
+any one to keep upright, but inasmuch as the Walla Walla grandfather got
+ice on the ground last, the Chinook brothers were all thrown and killed.</p>
+
+<p>The eldest Chinook had an infant baby at home, whose mother brought him up
+with one sole purpose in view, and that was that he must avenge the death
+of his father and uncles. By continual practice in pulling up trees he
+became prodigiously strong, insomuch that he could pull up the largest fir
+trees and throw them about like weeds. The young man finally reached such
+a degree of strength that he felt that the time had come for him to
+perform his great mission. Therefore he went up the Columbia, pulling up
+trees and tossing them around in different places, and finally passed over
+into the valley of the Yakima, where he lay down to rest by the creek
+called the Setas. There he rested for a day and a night, and the marks of
+his couch are still plainly visible on the mountain side.</p>
+
+<p>Now, turning back again to the Columbia, he sought the hut of his
+grandparents, and when he had found it, he found also that they were in a
+most deplorable condition. The Walla Walla brothers had been having it all
+their own way during these years and had imposed most shamefully upon the
+old people. When he learned this, the young Chinook told his grandfather
+to go out into the Columbia to fish for sturgeon, while he in the meantime
+would lie down in the bottom of the boat and watch for the Walla Walla
+wind. It was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> the habit of these tormenting Walla Walla wind brothers to
+wait until the old man had got his boat filled with fish, and then they,
+issuing swiftly and silently from the shore, would beset and rob him. This
+time they started out from the shore as usual, but to their great
+astonishment, just as they were about to catch him, the boat would shoot
+on at miraculous speed and leave them far behind. So the old man landed
+safely and brought his fish to the hut. The young Chinook then took his
+grandparents to a stream and washed from them the filth which had gathered
+upon them during all those years of suffering. Strange to say, the filth
+became transformed into trout, and this is the origin of all the trout
+along the Columbia.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the news became known abroad that there was another Chinook
+champion in the field, the Walla Walla brothers began to demand a new
+wrestling match. Young Chinook very gladly accepted the challenge, though
+he had to meet all five. But now Speelyei secretly suggested to the
+Chinook grandfather that he should wait about throwing the oil on the
+ground until the ice had all been used up. By means of this change of
+practice, the Walla Walla brothers fell speedily before the young Chinook.
+One after another was thrown and beheaded until only the youngest was
+left. His courage failing, he surrendered without a struggle. Speelyei
+then pronounced sentence upon him, telling him that he must live, but
+could henceforth only blow lightly, and never have power to freeze people
+to death. Speelyei also decreed that in order to keep Chinook within
+bounds he should blow his hardest at night time, and should blow upon the
+mountain ridges first in order to prepare people for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> his coming. Thus
+there came to be moderation in the winds, but Chinook was always the
+victor in the end. And thus at the present time, in the perpetual flux and
+reflux of the oceans of the air, when the north wind sweeps down from the
+chilly zones of Canada upon the Columbia Basin, his triumph is but
+transient. For within a few hours, or days at most, while the cattle are
+threatened with destruction and while ranchers are gazing anxiously about,
+they will discern a blue-black line upon the southern horizon. In a short
+time the mountain ridges can be seen bare of snow, and deliverance is at
+hand. For the next morning, rushing and roaring from the South, comes the
+blessed Chinook, and the icy grip of the North melts as before a blast
+from a furnace. The struggle is short and Chinook&#8217;s victory is sure.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly all our native races had a more or less coherent idea of a future
+state of rewards and punishments. &#8220;The happy hunting ground&#8221; of the
+Indians is often referred to in connection with the Indians of the older
+part of the United States. Our Indians have ideas in general quite
+similar. Some believe that there is a hell and a heaven. The Siskiyou
+Indians in Southern Oregon have a curious idea similar to that of the
+ancient Egyptians as well as of the Mohammedans. This is to the effect
+that the regions of the blessed are on the other side of an enormously
+deep chasm. To pass over this, one must cross on a very narrow and
+slippery pole. The good can pass, but the bad fall off into empty space,
+whence they reappear again upon the earth as beasts or birds.</p>
+
+<p>The Klickitat Indians, living along The Dalles of the Columbia have a fine
+legend of the land of spirits.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> There lived a young chief and a girl who
+were devoted to each other and seemed to be the happiest people in the
+tribe, but suddenly he sickened and died. The girl mourned for him almost
+to the point of death, and he, having reached the land of the spirits,
+could find no happiness there for thinking of her. And so it came to pass
+that a vision began to appear to the girl at night, telling her that she
+must herself go into the land of the spirits in order to console her
+lover. Now there is, near that place, one of the most weird and funereal
+of all the various &#8220;memaloose&#8221; islands, or death islands, of the Columbia.
+The writer himself has been upon this island and its spectral and volcanic
+desolation makes it a fitting location for ghostly tales. It lies just
+below the &#8220;great chute,&#8221; and even yet has many skeletons upon it. In
+accordance with the directions of the vision, the girl&#8217;s father made ready
+a canoe, placed her in it, and passed out into the Great River by night,
+to the memaloose island. As the father and his child rowed across the dark
+and forbidding waters, they began to hear the sounds of singing and
+dancing and great joy. Upon the shore of the island they were met by four
+spirit people, who took the girl, but bade the father return, as it was
+not for him to see into the spirit country. Accordingly the girl was
+conducted to the great dance-house of the spirits, and there she met her
+lover, far stronger and more beautiful than when upon earth. That night
+they spent in unspeakable bliss, but when the light began to break in the
+east and the song of the robins was heard from the willows on the shore,
+the singers and the dancers fell asleep.</p>
+
+<p>The girl, too, had gone to sleep, but not soundly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> like the spirits. When
+the sun had reached the meridian, she woke, and now, to her horror, she
+saw that instead of being in the midst of beautiful spirits, she was
+surrounded by hideous skeletons and loathsome, decaying bodies. Around her
+waist were the bony arms and skeleton fingers of her lover, and his
+grinning teeth and gaping eye-sockets seemed to be turned in mockery upon
+her. Screaming with horror, she leaped up and ran to the edge of the
+island, where, after hunting a long time, she found a boat, in which she
+paddled across to the Indian village. Having presented herself to her
+astonished parents, they became fearful that some great calamity would
+visit the tribe on account of her return, and accordingly her father took
+her the next night back to the memaloose island as before. There she met
+again the happy spirits of the blessed, and there again her lover and she
+spent another night in ecstatic bliss. In the course of time a child was
+born to the girl, beautiful beyond description, being half spirit and half
+human. The spirit bridegroom, being anxious that his mother should see the
+child, sent a spirit messenger to the village, desiring his mother to come
+by night to the memaloose island to visit them. She was told, however,
+that she must not look at the child until ten days had passed. But after
+the old woman had reached the island, her desire to see the wonderful
+child was so intense that she took advantage of a moment&#8217;s inattention on
+the part of the guard, and, lifting the cloth from the baby board, she
+stole a look at the sleeping infant. And then, dreadful to relate, the
+baby died in consequence of this premature human look. Grieved and
+displeased by this foolish act, the spirit people decreed that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> dead
+should never again return nor hold any communication with the living.</p>
+
+<p>In concluding this chapter we cannot forbear to call the attention of our
+readers to the rare beauty of many of the native Indian names of
+localities. These names always have some significance, and ordinarily
+there is some such poetic or figurative conception involved in the name as
+plainly reveals the fact that these rude and unfortunate natives have the
+souls of poets beneath their savage exterior. It is truly lamentable that
+some of the sonorous and poetic native names have been thrust aside for
+the commonplace and oft-repeated names of Eastern or European localities
+or the still less attractive names of discoverers or their unimportant
+friends.</p>
+
+<p>Think of using the names Salem and Portland for Chemeketa and Multnomah,
+the native names. Chemeketa means &#8220;Here we Rest,&#8221; or, some say, the &#8220;Place
+of Peace,&#8221; for it was the council ground of the Willamette Valley Indians.
+But the Methodist missionaries thought that it would have a more Biblical
+sound and conduce to the spiritual welfare of the natives to translate the
+word into its equivalent, Salem. So they spoiled the wild native beauty of
+the name for all time. Multnomah means &#8220;Down the Waters.&#8221; But two Yankee
+sea captains, with a sad deficiency of poetry in them, tossed up a coin to
+decide whether to employ the name of Boston or Portland, the native town
+of each, and the latter won the toss.</p>
+
+<p>Oregon has been more fortunate than Washington in its State name, for it
+has the unique name, stately and sonorous, which old Jonathan Carver first
+used for the River and which is one of the most distinctive<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> of all the
+names of States. But whether Oregon is Indian, Spanish, French, or a
+corruption of something else, or a pure invention of Carver&#8217;s is one of
+the mooted points in our history. Idaho, too, has one of the most
+mellifluous of names, meaning the &#8220;Gem of the Mountains.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>All three States have many beautiful and appropriate names of rivers,
+lakes, mountains, and cities. Such are Chelan, &#8220;Beautiful Water&#8221;;
+Umatilla, &#8220;The Wind-blown Sand&#8221;; Walla Walla, &#8220;Where the Waters Meet&#8221;;
+Shuksan, &#8220;The Place of the Storm Winds&#8221;; Spokane, &#8220;The People of the Sun&#8221;;
+Kulshan, &#8220;The Great White Watcher&#8221;; Snoqualmie, &#8220;The Falls of the Moon
+God.&#8221; Seattle derives its name from the old chief Seattle, or Sealth.</p>
+
+<p>The most bitterly disputed name of all is Tacoma <i>vs.</i> Rainier, as the
+name of the greatest of our mountains. The name of Rainier was derived by
+Vancouver from that of an officer of the British navy, a man who never
+knew anything of Oregon and had no part or lot in its discovery or
+development. Tacoma, or more accurately, <i>Takhoma</i> (a peculiar guttural
+which we cannot fully indicate), was the native Indian name, meaning,
+according to some, &#8220;The Great White Mountain,&#8221; and according to others
+meaning &#8220;The Fountain-breast of Milk-white Waters.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>With these glances at the character of the land, and its native
+inhabitants, we are now ready to see how they became known to the world.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h3>
+<p class="chapter">Tales of the First White Men along the Coast</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Nekahni Mountain and Tallapus&mdash;Quootshoi and Toulux&mdash;Original Beauty of Clatsop Plains&mdash;The
+Story Told by Celiast and Cultee&mdash;Casting of the &#8220;Thing&#8221; upon the Beach&mdash;The Pop-corn&mdash;Burning of the Ship&mdash;Konapee,
+the Iron-worker&mdash;Franch&egrave;re&#8217;s Account of Soto&mdash;The Treasure Ship on the Beach at Nekahni Mountain&mdash;The Black Spook and
+Mysterious Chest&mdash;The Inscription Still Found on the Rock&mdash;The Beeswax Ship&mdash;Quiaculliby.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">We</span> have told something of the mountains, rivers, and lakes which make up
+the framework of our Pacific North-west. We have also tried to see the
+land through the eyes of the native red men, and have called back a few of
+the grotesque, fantastic, sometimes heroic, sometimes pathetic legends
+which they associated with every phase of their country.</p>
+
+<p>Now the very centre of Indian lore, the Parnassus, the Delphi, the Dodona,
+of the lower Columbia River Indians, is the stretch of mingled bluff,
+plain, lake, sand-dune, and mountain, marvellously diversified, from the
+south shore of the Columbia&#8217;s mouth to the sacred Nekahni Mountain. It is
+a wonderously picturesque region. From it came Tallapus, the Hermes
+Trismegistus of the Oregon Indians. Its forests were haunted by the
+Skookums and Cheatcos. From the volcanic pinnacles of Swallallochast, now
+known as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> Saddle Mountain, the thunder bird went forth on its daily quest
+of a whale, while at the mountain&#8217;s foot Quootshoi and Toulux produced the
+first men from the monstrous eggs of that same great bird. In short, that
+region was rich in legend, as it was, and still is, in scenic beauty.</p>
+
+<p>It is said by the Indians that a hundred years or more ago it was much
+finer than now, for the entire breadth of Clatsop Plains was sodded with
+deep green grass and bright with flowers almost the whole year through.
+This bright-hued plain lay open to the sea, and across its southern end
+flowed three tide streams, having the aboriginal names of Nekanikum,
+Ohanna, and Neahcoxie.</p>
+
+<p>It was a veritable paradise for the Indians. The forests were filled with
+elk (moosmoos) and deer (mowitch), while fish of almost every variety
+thronged the waters, from that king of all fish now known as the royal
+chinook of the Columbia down to such smaller fry as the smelt and the
+herring, which even now sometimes so throng the lesser streams that the
+receding tide leaves them by the thousands on the muddy flats. On the
+beach were infinite numbers of clams; and as an evidence of their
+abundance we can now see shell mounds by the acre, in such quantity,
+indeed, that some of the modern roads have been paved with shells.</p>
+
+<p>This favoured region was the home of the Clatsops. There, too, according
+to the legends, the first white men landed. The story of the first
+appearance of the white men has reached our own times in various forms,
+but the most coherent account is through the word of Celiast, an Indian
+woman who died many years ago, but who became the wife of one of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>
+earliest white settlers and the mother of Silas Smith, now dead, but known
+in his time as one of the best authorities on Indian history. Celiast was
+the daughter of Kobaiway, a chieftain whose sway extended over the land of
+the Clatsops in the time of the Astor Company a century ago. Celiast was
+in fact the best authority for many of the Indian legends. But she is not
+alone in the knowledge of this appearance of the white men, for a number
+of other Indians tell the substance of the same tale. Among others an old
+Indian of Bay Centre, Washington, by the name of Charlie Cultee, related
+the story to Dr. Franz Boas, whose work in the Smithsonian Institute is
+known as among the best on the native races. This is the story, a
+composite of that of Celiast and that of Cultee.</p>
+
+<p>It appears that an old woman living near the ancient Indian village of
+Ne-Ahkstow, about two miles south of the mouth of the Great River (the
+Columbia) had lost her son. &#8220;She wailed for a whole year, and then she
+stopped.&#8221; One day, after her usual custom, she went to the seaside, and
+walked along the shore towards Clatsop. While on the way she saw something
+very strange. At first it seemed like a whale, but, when the old woman
+came close, she saw that it had two trees standing upright in it. She
+said, &#8220;This is no whale; it is a monster.&#8221; The outside was all covered
+over with something bright, which they afterwards found was copper. Ropes
+were tied all over the two trees, and the inside of the Thing was full of
+iron.</p>
+
+<p>While the old woman gazed in silent wonder, a being that looked like a
+bear, but had a human face, though with long hair all over it, came out of
+the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> Thing that lay there. Then the old woman hastened home in great fear.
+She thought this bearlike creature must be the spirit of her son, and that
+the Thing was that about which they had heard in the Ekanum tales.</p>
+
+<p>The people, when they had heard the strange story, hastened with bows and
+arrows to the spot. There, sure enough, lay the Thing upon the shore, just
+as the old woman had said. Only instead of one bear there were two
+standing on the Thing. These two creatures,&mdash;whether bears or people the
+Indians were not sure,&mdash;were just at the point of going down the Thing
+(which they now began to understand was an immense canoe with two trees
+driven into it) to the beach, with kettles in their hands.</p>
+
+<p>As the bewildered people watched them they started a fire and put corn
+into the kettles. Very soon it began to pop and fly with great rapidity up
+and down in the kettles. The pop-corn (the nature of which the Clatsops
+did not then understand) struck them with more surprise than anything
+else,&mdash;and this is the one part of the story preserved in every version.</p>
+
+<p>Then the corn-popping strangers made signs that they wanted water. The
+chief sent men to supply them with all their needs, and in the meantime he
+made a careful examination of the strangers. Finding that their hands were
+the same as his own, he became satisfied that they were indeed men. One of
+the Indians ran and climbed up and entered the Thing. Looking into the
+interior, he found it full of boxes. There were also many strings of
+buttons half a fathom long. He went out to call in his relatives, but,
+before he could return, the ship had been set on fire.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> Or, in the
+language of Charlie Cultee, &#8220;It burnt just like fat.&#8221; As a result of the
+burning of the ship, the Clatsops got possession of the iron, copper, and
+brass.</p>
+
+<p>Now the news of this strange event became noised abroad, and the Indians
+from all the region thronged to Clatsop to see and feel of these strange
+men with hands and feet just like ordinary men, yet with long beards and
+with such peculiar garb as to seem in no sense men. There arose great
+strife as to who should receive and care for the strange men. Each tribe
+or village was very anxious to have them, or at least one of them. The
+Quienaults, the Chehales, and the Willapas, from the beach on the north
+side, came to press their claims. From up the river came the Cowlitz, the
+Cascades, and even the Far-off Klickitat. The different tribes almost had
+a battle for possession, but, according to one account, it was finally
+settled that one of the strange visitors should stay with the Clatsop
+chief, and that one should go with the Willapas on the north side of the
+Great River. According to another, they both stayed at Clatsop.</p>
+
+<p>From this first arrival of white men, the Indians called them all
+&#8220;Tlehonnipts,&#8221; that is, &#8220;Of those who drift ashore.&#8221; One of the men
+possessed the magical art of taking pieces of iron and making knives and
+hatchets. It was indeed to the poor Indians a marvellous gift of Tallapus,
+their god, that they should have a man among them that could perform that
+priceless labour, for the possession of iron knives and hatchets meant the
+indefinite multiplying of canoes, huts, bows and arrows, weapons, and
+implements of every sort. The iron-maker&#8217;s name was Konapee. The Indians
+kept close watch of him for many days<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> and made him work incessantly. But,
+as the tokens of his skill became numerous, his captors held him in great
+favour and allowed him more liberty. Being permitted to select a site for
+a house, he chose a spot on the Columbia which became known to the
+Indians, even down to the white occupancy of the region, as &#8220;Konapee.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>Among other possessions, Konapee had a large number of pieces of money,
+which, from the description, must have been Chinese &#8220;cash.&#8221; From this some
+have inferred that Konapee must have been a Chinaman, and the wrecked ship
+a Chinese or Japanese junk. This does not, however, follow. For the
+Spaniards had become entirely familiar with China, and any Spanish vessel
+returning from the Philippine Islands or from China would have been likely
+to have a supply of Chinese money on board.</p>
+
+<p>There is an interesting bit of testimony which seems to belong to this
+same story of Konapee. It is found in the book by Gabriel Franch&egrave;re in
+regard to the founding of Astoria, the book which was the chief authority
+of Irving in his fascinating narrative entitled <i>Astoria</i>. Franch&egrave;re
+describes meeting an old man, eighty years old, in 1811, at the Cascades,
+whose name was Soto, and who said that his father was one of four
+Spaniards wrecked on Clatsop beach many years before. His father had tried
+to reach the land of the sunrise by going eastward, but having reached the
+Cascades was prevented from going farther and had there married an Indian
+woman, Soto&#8217;s mother. It is thought likely that the father of Soto was
+Konapee. The two stories seem to fit quite well. If this be true, it is
+likely that Konapee&#8217;s landing was as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> early as 1725. If all the details of
+Konapee&#8217;s life could be known, what a romance might be made of it! There
+is no reason to suppose that he ever saw other white men or ever got away
+from the region where the fortune of shipwreck had cast him. Yet he was in
+possession of one of the greatest geographical secrets of that country,
+for the hope of the discovery of some great &#8220;River of the West,&#8221; the
+elusive stream which many believed to be a pure fabrication of Aguilar and
+other old navigators, had enticed many a &#8220;marinere&#8221; from many a far
+&#8220;countree.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>In any event it is probable that the Columbia River Indians had got a
+general knowledge of the whites and their arts from Konapee long before
+the authentic discovery of the river was made. Especially it seems that
+from him they got a knowledge of iron and implements fashioned from it.
+Captain Cook mentions that when he visited the coast in 1780 the Indians
+manifested no surprise at the weapons or implements of iron. In fact even
+all whites who supposed themselves to be the first to visit this coast
+found the Indians ready to trade and especially eager to get iron. A new
+era of trade and business seems to have been inaugurated among these
+Clatsops and Chinooks dating from about the supposed time of Konapee. But
+he was by no means the only one of his race to be cast upon the Oregon
+shore. There is a story of a treasure ship cast upon the beach near
+Nekahni Mountain. This mountain, the original home of Tallapus, while on
+its summit the great chief god Nekahni himself dwelt, is one of the
+noblest pieces of Nature&#8217;s art all along the shore. Fronting the ocean
+with a precipitous rampart of rock five hundred feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> high and thence
+rising in a wide sweeping park clad in thick turf, and dotted here and
+there with beautiful spruce and fir trees, to an elevation of twenty-five
+hundred feet, the sacred Nekahni presents as fine a combination of the
+beautiful and sublime as can be seen upon a whole thousand miles of coast.
+It was a favourite spot with the natives. For lying upon its open and
+turfy slopes they could gaze upon many miles of sea, and could no doubt
+light up their signal fires which might be seen over a wide expanse of
+beach. Very likely there, too, they celebrated the mysterious rites of
+Nekahni and Tallapus.</p>
+
+<p>One pleasant afternoon in early summer, a large group of natives assembled
+upon the lower part of Nekahni, almost upon the edge of the precipitous
+cliff with which it fronts the sea. Gazing into the offing they saw a
+great object like a huge bird drawing near from the outer sea. It
+approached the shore, and then from it a small boat with a number of men
+and a large black box put out to land. Coming to the beach the men took
+out the box and also a black man whom the Indians supposed to be a spook
+or evil demon. Going a little way up the beach the men dug a hole into
+which they lowered the box, and then having struck down the black man they
+threw him on top of the box and, covering it up, they returned to the
+ship, which soon disappeared from sight. On account of the black man
+buried with the box, the superstitious Indians dared not undertake to
+exhume the contents of the grave. But the story was handed from one
+generation to another, and it came to constitute the story of the
+&#8220;treasure ship.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>In recent times the idea that here some chest, with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> gold and jewels in
+the most approved style of buried fortunes, might be found has caused much
+searching. The ground has been dug over for the sight of the regulation
+rusty handle which is to lead to the great iron-bound chest with its
+doubloons of gold and crucifixes of pearls. Parties have come from the
+Eastern States to join the search. One party even secured the guidance of
+spirits who professed to locate the treasure. But though the spirit-led
+enthusiasts turned over every stone and dug up the sand for many feet
+along the beach, they found never an iron-bound chest, and never a sign of
+the treasure. There is, however, in plain sight now, on a rock at the foot
+of Nekahni Mountain, a character cut in the rock bearing a rude
+resemblance to a cross. Some think it looks more like the letters, I.H.S.,
+the sacred emblem of the Catholic Church. There is also what seems to be
+quite a distinct arrow pointing in a certain direction. But the treasure
+remains unfound.</p>
+
+<p>The next legend of the prehistoric white man is that of the &#8220;Beeswax
+Ship.&#8221; This, too, has a real confirmation in the presence of large
+quantities of beeswax at a point also near Nekahni Mountain, just north of
+the mouth of the Nehalem River. Some naturalists claimed at one time that
+this substance was simply the natural paraffine produced from the products
+of coal or petroleum. But more recently cakes of the substance stamped
+with the sacred letters, &#8220;I.H.S.,&#8221; together with tapers, and even one
+piece with a bee plainly visible within, may be considered incontestable
+proof that this is indeed beeswax, while the letters, &#8220;I.H.S.&#8221; denote
+plainly enough the origin of the substance in some Spanish colony. An
+interesting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> point in connection with this is the historical fact that on
+June 16, 1769, the ship <i>San Jos&eacute;</i> left La Paz, Lower California, for San
+Diego, and was never heard from again. Some have conjectured that the <i>San
+Jos&eacute;</i> was the &#8220;Beeswax Ship,&#8221; driven far north by some storm or mutiny. As
+to the peculiar fact that a ship should have been entirely loaded with
+beeswax it has been conjectured that some of the good padres of the
+Spanish Missions meant to provide a new station with a large amount of wax
+for the sake of providing tapers for their service, the lighted candles
+proving then, as they do now, a matter of marvel and wonder to the
+natives, and, with other features of ceremonial worship, having a great
+effect to bring them into subjection to the Church.</p>
+
+<p>The Indian legend runs on to the effect that several white men were saved
+from the wreck of the &#8220;Beeswax Ship,&#8221; and that they lived with them. But
+having infringed upon the family rights of the natives, they became
+obnoxious, and were all cut off by an attack from them. One story,
+however, asserts that there was one man left, a blue-eyed, golden-haired
+man, that he took a Nehalem woman, and that from him was descended a
+fair-complexioned progeny, of which a certain chieftain who lived at a
+beautiful little lake on Clatsop plains, now known as Culliby Lake, was
+our Quiaculliby.</p>
+
+<p>Such in brief survey, are some of the stories which preserve the record of
+the space betwixt the Indian age of myth and the period of authentic
+discovery.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h3>
+<p class="chapter">How all Nations Sought the River from the Sea and how they Found it</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Search for Gold&mdash;Economic Effects&mdash;Early Extension of Exploration
+Westward&mdash;Cortez&mdash;Magellan&mdash;Aguilar&mdash;Fables of the Sea&mdash;Shakspere and
+Swift&mdash;Maps&mdash;Great Wars of the Seventeenth Century and Downfall of
+Spain&mdash;Long Delay&mdash;Resumption of Exploration&mdash;Spanish Settlement of
+California&mdash;Russia and Behring&mdash;Perez&mdash;Heceta&mdash;Cook&mdash;Fur-trade&mdash;Gathering of Nations&mdash;The
+Yankees&mdash;Gray and Kendrick&mdash;Meares and Vancouver&mdash;The Complete
+Discovery&mdash;Strife between England and the United States.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">The</span> period of the Renaissance is one, which by reason of splendid
+achievements in literature, in art, in science, and in discovery, can
+hardly be duplicated. We are here especially concerned with the
+discoverers. A mingling of motives impelled those dauntless spirits
+onward, and among the most potent was the greed for gold. Much American
+history is bound up with the mad rush for the precious metals, and the
+spread of exploration from the West Indies and Mexico, the first centres
+of Spanish power, was one of its results. Only eight years after the
+landing of Columbus on San Salvador, the Portuguese Gaspar Cortereal had
+conceived the idea of a north-west passage, which in some unexplained
+manner became known as the Strait of Anian. In 1543, the Spaniards
+Cabrillo and Ferrelo coasted along the shores of California,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> and the
+latter was doubtless the first white man to look upon the coast of Oregon.
+In 1577, England appeared in the person of that boldest and most
+picturesque of the half-discoverers, half-pirates, of that time, Francis
+Drake. In that year he set forth on the wonderful voyage in which he
+plundered the treasures of the Spanish Main, cut the golden girdle of
+Manila, queen of the Spanish Orient, skirted along the coast of California
+and Oregon, and at last circumnavigated the globe. Brilliant as were
+Drake&#8217;s exploits, they did not result in the discovery of our Great River.
+In 1592, just a century after Columbus, Juan de Fuca, whose name is now
+preserved in the strait leading to Puget Sound, is said to have made that
+voyage which is regarded by most historians as a myth, but which affords
+so fascinating a bit of narration that it ought to be true. Two hundred
+years later John Meares, the English navigator, attached the name of the
+stout old Greek pilot to that inlet now familiar to ships of all nations.
+With the passage of a few years more, explorations upon the western shore
+of America began to assume a more definite form. In 1602 the best equipped
+squadron thus far sent out left Acapulco under command of Vizcaino, with
+the aim of carrying out Monterey&#8217;s great purpose for the northward
+extension of Spanish power. The fleet being scattered by storm, the
+<i>fragata</i> in command of Martin Aguilar ran up the coast as far as latitude
+43 degrees. There they found a cape to which they attached the name still
+held, Cape Blanco. From that point, following the north-westerly trending
+of the coast, they soon came abreast of a &#8220;rapid and abundant river, with
+ash trees, willows, and brambles, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> other trees of Castile upon its
+banks.&#8221; This they endeavoured to enter, but from the strength of the
+current could not. &#8220;And seeing that they had already reached a higher
+latitude than had been ordered by the viceroy and that the number of the
+sick was great, they decided to return to Acapulco.&#8221; Torquemada, the
+historian, from whom the account is taken, goes on to say:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>It is supposed that this river is one leading to a great city, which
+was discovered by the Dutch when they were driven thither by storms,
+and that it is the Strait of Anian, through which the vessels passed
+in sailing from the North Sea to the South Sea; and that the city
+called Quivera is in those parts; and that this is the region referred
+to in the account which His Majesty read, and which induced him to
+order this expedition.</p></div>
+
+<p>The interesting question arises, Was the river the Columbia? It is the
+only large river on the Oregon coast, though the Umpqua, if at flood
+stage, might have given the impression of size. The latitude is not right,
+either, though the Spanish narrator does not say how far north of Cape
+Blanco they went. But whether or not Aguilar really went so far north as
+the Columbia, his voyage was one of much interest. It gave Spain a warrant
+to claim the western coast of America; it still further strengthened the
+idea of the Strait of Anian; it seemed to confirm the romantic conception
+of a great city or group of cities with civilised inhabitants along that
+passage way, and it gave the first name to the river, the Rio de Aguilar.</p>
+
+<p>Thenceforth the navigators of all nations accepted as the primary object
+of their search some great river of the West. Hidden in the fogs of fancy,
+as it lay<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> shrouded in truth in the mists of the ocean, the supposed Rio
+de Aguilar yet held the spell of enchantment over many an &#8220;ancient
+mariner&#8221; of many a land. Whatsoever nation could actually find the river
+and establish a definite claim to first discovery, would have, by the
+generally accepted usage of nations, the right of occupation and
+ownership.</p>
+
+<p>That was a fruitful time for fables of the sea, and around the Great River
+many of them gathered. The original of Baron Munchausen seems to have
+existed in the persons of Captain Lorenzo Ferrer de Maldonado and Admiral
+Pedro Bartolom&eacute; de Fonte. The first of these worthies, whose voyage was
+said to have been made in 1588, describes in a very circumstantial manner
+his passage through the Strait of Anian and his exit upon the Asiatic side
+of the continent. This he averred was marked with a very remarkable rocky
+eminence which rendered it wonderfully adapted to fortification and
+defence, the mountain being so steep, in fact, that a missile dropped from
+the summit would fall directly upon a ship in mid-channel. It is thought
+by some students that some unchronicled Spanish navigator may have
+actually made the inland passage up the Alaskan coast and that some report
+of it may have become transformed into Maldonado&#8217;s story. Fonte&#8217;s story
+seems to have first appeared in a London publication in 1708, though his
+voyage was alleged to have been made in 1640. He told a marvellous tale of
+a great river which led to a magnificent lake on whose banks stood a great
+city. The river he located in latitude 53 degrees, and he named it the Rio
+de los Reyes, or River of Kings. This is far north of the Columbia, but
+the account persisted in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> popular idea for a long time. The name became
+associated with those of the Rio de Aguilar and the River of the West.</p>
+
+<p>These and other similar tales, the flotsam and jetsam of ocean myths, gave
+something of inspiration and suggestion to literature. For even long
+before the alleged exploits of Fonte, the fertile mind of Shakspere had
+conceived of Caliban and Ariel and other fancies of the age of Western
+adventure. And in the next century the prince of political satirists,
+Jonathan Swift, had located almost exactly at the mouth of the Rio de
+Aguilar, the land of the Brobdingnagians, while the countries into which
+the veracious Gulliver was thrown at a later time, Luggnagg and
+Blubdubrib, were in the Pacific at a somewhat indefinite distance from the
+land of the Giants.</p>
+
+<p>The land of the Oregon was in short, the land of the great unexplored and
+of boundless fancy. Some of the old maps illustrating that period are of
+much interest. Zaltieri&#8217;s map of 1566 shows a generally accurate
+conception of the eastern part of America and of the western coast of
+Mexico and California, but the entire continent above about latitude 60
+degrees is occupied with a <i>mare septentrionale incognito</i>. Luck&#8217;s map of
+1582 presents a fairly good conception of Florida and Mexico, but is
+entirely astray on the western coast. The Wytfliet-Ptolemy map of 1597 has
+a singularly indented coast running nearly east and west in the location
+of Oregon, while Cape Blanco and a river, the Rio de los Estrachos, in
+about latitude 51 degrees, seem to be an attempt to denote Aguilar&#8217;s cape
+of 1543, and to locate the river by still another name, though in a
+higher<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> latitude. Maldonado&#8217;s map of the Strait of Anian of 1609 is
+manifestly manufactured to suit the occasion, and is interesting only as
+showing how far mendacity and gullibility could travel hand in hand.</p>
+
+<p>But now the first age of discovery on the coast of Oregon drew to a close.
+It cannot be said that much of tangible knowledge had been attained.
+Puzzling questions had been raised. Labyrinths of conjecture, with no
+definite clues for exit, had been entered. Fascinating romances had been
+so interwoven with probable fact that no one could untangle them. A
+general conception of a great river and a great north-west passage had
+been held up with some distinctness as the goal of navigators. Finally,
+most important of all, what had been seen was of so enticingly interesting
+a nature and seemed to promise results so important, that they furnished a
+motive for continued exploration. It certainly looked as though the
+nations would continue the search for the Great River of the West. Spain
+had the inside track of all, though Drake and Cavendish and Hawkins had
+run down many a richly laden treasure galleon and had laid the booty at
+the feet of the Virgin Queen, and many an embittered buccaneer of French
+or English race had hounded the flag of Spain across the breadth of half
+the seas.</p>
+
+<p>But a great change was impending. There was a new shuffle of the cards in
+the hands of the Fates and the Furies as the seventeenth century moved on
+apace. Spain&#8217;s time had come. Her cup of iniquity was now full. Her whole
+measure of national policy had been the sword for the pagan and the
+inquisition for the heretic. The banished Moors of Granada and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> the
+murdered &#8220;Beggars&#8221; of Holland and the wasted Incas and Montezumas of
+America united to call down the vengeance of Nemesis upon the destroyer of
+a fair world&#8217;s peace.</p>
+
+<p>The stupendous struggles engendered by the Reformation, culminating in the
+Thirty Years&#8217; War, went on almost without pause for over a century. That
+strife, ending at Westphalia in 1648, saw Spain prostrate and the
+principle of religious toleration triumphant. But almost immediately
+another struggle arose, the natural successor of the first, the struggle
+against the absolute monarchy of the Bourbons. As may well be seen, the
+nations of Europe were so enchained in the strife against Pope and King
+that they had little thought for new discoveries. Over a hundred and sixty
+years passed after the voyage of Aguilar before there was another serious
+movement of discovery on the coast of Oregon.</p>
+
+<p>This new movement of Pacific exploration, destined to continue with no
+cessation to our own day, was ushered in by Spain. There was even yet much
+vitality in the fallen mistress of the world. Impelled by both religious
+zeal and hope of material gain, the immigration of 1769 went forth from La
+Paz to San Diego and Monterey. That inaugurated the singular and poetic,
+in some aspects even beautiful, history of Spanish California, an era
+which has provided so much of romance and poetry for literature in the
+California of our own times. The march of events had made it plain to the
+Spanish Government that, if it was to retain a hold on the Pacific Coast,
+it must bestir itself. Russia, England, and France, released in a measure
+from the pressure of European struggles,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> were fitting out expeditions to
+resume the arrested efforts of the sixteenth century. It seemed plain also
+that colonial America was going to be an active rival on the seas. And
+well may it have so seemed, for, in the sign of the Yankee sailor, the
+conquest was to be made.</p>
+
+<p>But just at that important juncture a most favouring condition arose for
+Spain. The government of England precipitated the struggle of the American
+Revolution. France soon joined to strike her island rival a deadly blow by
+assisting in the liberation of the colonies. For the time, Spain had
+nearly a clear field for Pacific discovery, so far as England and France
+were concerned. As for Russia, the danger was more imminent. Russia had,
+indeed, begun to look in the direction of Pacific expansion a long time
+prior to the Spanish immigration to California. That vast monarchy,
+transformed by the genius of Peter the Great, had stretched its arms from
+the Baltic to the Aleutian Archipelago, and had looked from the frozen
+seas of Siberia to the open Pacific as a fairer field for expansion. Many
+years elapsed, however, before Peter&#8217;s great designs could be fulfilled.
+Not till 1741 did Vitus Behring thread the thousand islands of Sitka and
+gaze upon the glaciated crest of Mt. St. Elias. And it was not till thirty
+years later that it became understood that the Bay of Avatcha was
+connected by the open sea with China. In 1771 the first cargo of furs was
+shipped directly from Avatcha to Canton. Then first the vastness of the
+Pacific Ocean was comprehended. Then first it was understood that the same
+waters which lashed the frozen ramparts of Kamchatka encircled the coral
+islands of the South<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> Sea and roared against the stormy barriers of Cape
+Horn.</p>
+
+<p>The Russians had not found the Great River, though it appears that Behring
+in 1771 had gone as far south as latitude 46 degrees, just the parallel of
+the mouth of the Columbia. But he was so far off the coast as not to see
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Three Spanish voyages followed in rapid succession: that of Perez in 1774,
+of Heceta in 1775, and of Bodega in 1779. The only notable things in
+connection with the voyage of Perez were his discovery of Queen
+Charlotte&#8217;s Island, with the sea-otter furs traded by the natives, the
+first sight of that superb group of mountains which we now call the
+Olympic, but which the Spaniards named the Sierra de Santa Rosalia, and
+finally the fine harbour of Nootka on Vancouver Island, named by Perez
+Port San Lorenzo, for years the centre of the fur-trade and the general
+rendezvous of ships of all nations. But no river was found.</p>
+
+<p>With another year a still completer expedition was fitted out, Bruno
+Heceta being commander and Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra, second in
+command. This voyage was the most important and interesting thus far in
+the history of the Columbia River exploration. For Heceta actually found
+the Great River, so long sought and so constantly eluding discovery. On
+June 10, 1775, Heceta passed Cape Mendocino, and entered a small bay just
+northward. There he entered into friendly relations with the natives and
+took solemn possession of the country in the name of His Catholic Majesty
+of Spain. Sailing thence northward, he again touched land just south of
+the Straits<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> of Fuca, but there he met disaster at the ill-omened point
+subsequently named Destruction Island. For there his boat landing for
+exploration was set upon by the savage inhabitants, and the entire
+boat-load murdered. Moving southward again, on August 15th, in latitude 46
+degrees 10 minutes, Heceta found himself abreast of some great river.
+Deciding that this must be indeed the mysterious Strait of Fuca, or the
+long concealed river of the other ancient navigators, he made two efforts
+to enter, but the powerful current and uncertain depths deterred him, and
+he at last gave up the effort and bore away for Monterey. Three additional
+names were bestowed upon the River at this time. Thinking the entrance a
+bay, Heceta named it, in honour of the day, Ensenada de Asuncion. Later it
+was more commonly known as Ensenada de Heceta, while the Spanish charts
+designated the river as Rio de San Roque. The name of Cabo de Frondoso
+(Leafy Cape) was bestowed upon the low promontory on the south, now known
+as Point Adams, while upon the picturesque headland on the north which we
+now designate as Cape Hancock, the devout Spaniards conferred the name of
+Cabo de San Roque, August 16th being the day sacred to that saint.</p>
+
+<p>The original account given by Heceta is so interesting that we insert it
+here:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>On the 17th day of August I sailed along the coast to the 46th degree,
+and observed that from the latitude 47 degrees 4 minutes to that of 46
+degrees 10 minutes, it runs in the angle of 18 degrees of the second
+quadrant, and from that latitude to 46 degrees 4 minutes, in the angle
+of 12 degrees of the same quadrant; the soundings, the shore, the
+wooded character of the country, and the little islands, being the
+same as on the preceding days.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>On the evening of this day I discovered a large bay, to which I gave
+the name Assumption Bay, and a plan of which will be found in this
+journal. Its latitude and longitude are determined according to the
+most exact means afforded by theory and practice. The latitudes of the
+two most prominent capes of this bay are calculated from the
+observations of this day.</p>
+
+<p>Having arrived opposite this bay at six in the evening, and placed the
+ship nearly midway between the two capes, I sounded and found bottom
+in four brazas [nearly four fathoms]. The currents and eddies were so
+strong that, notwithstanding a press of sail, it was difficult to get
+out clear of the northern cape, towards which the current ran, though
+its direction was eastward in consequence of the tide being at flood.
+These currents and eddies caused me to believe that the place is the
+mouth of some great river, or of some passage to another sea. Had I
+not been certain of the latitude of this bay, from my observations of
+the same day, I might easily have believed it to be the passage
+discovered by Juan de Fuca, in 1592, which is placed on the charts
+between the 47th and the 48th degrees; where I am certain no such
+strait exists; because I anchored on the 14th day of July midway
+between these latitudes, and carefully examined everything around.
+Notwithstanding the great difference between this bay and the passage
+mentioned by De Fuca, I have little difficulty in conceiving they may
+be the same, having observed equal or greater differences in the
+latitudes of other capes and ports on this coast, as I will show at
+the proper time; and in all cases latitudes thus assigned are higher
+than the real ones.</p>
+
+<p>I did not enter and anchor in this port, which in my plan I suppose to
+be formed by an island, notwithstanding my strong desire to do so;
+because, having consulted with the second captain, Don Juan Perez, and
+the pilot Don Christoval Revilla, they insisted I ought not to attempt
+it, as, if we let go the anchor, we should not have men enough to get
+it up, and to attend to the other operations which would be thereby
+necessary. Considering this, and also, that in order to reach the
+anchorage, I should be obliged to lower my long boat <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>(the only boat I
+had) and to man it with at least fourteen of the crew, as I could not
+manage with fewer, and also as it was then late in the day, I resolved
+to put out; and at the distance of three leagues I lay to. In the
+course of that night, I experienced heavy currents to the south-west,
+which made it impossible to enter the bay on the following morning, as
+I was far to leeward. These currents, however, convinced me that a
+great quantity of water rushed from this bay on the ebb of the tide.</p>
+
+<p>The two capes which I name in my plan, Cape San Roque and Cape
+Frondoso, lie in the angle of 10 degrees of the third quadrant. They
+are both faced with red earth and are of little elevation.</p>
+
+<p>On the 18th I observed Cape Frondoso, with another cape, to which I
+gave the name of Cape Falcon, situated in the latitude of 45 degrees
+43 minutes, and they lay at an angle of 22 degrees of the third
+quadrant, and from the last mentioned cape I traced the coast running
+in the angle of 5 degrees of the second quadrant. This land is
+mountainous, but not very high, nor so well wooded as that lying
+between the latitudes of 48 degrees 30 minutes, and 46 degrees. On
+sounding I found great differences: at a distance of seven leagues I
+got bottom at 84 brazas; and nearer the coast I sometimes found no
+bottom; from which I am inclined to believe there are reefs or shoals
+on these coasts, which is also shown by the colour of the water. In
+some places the coast presents a beach, in others, it is rocky.</p>
+
+<p>A flat-topped mountain, which I named the Table, will enable any
+navigator to know the position of Cape Falcon without observing it; as
+it is in the latitude of 45 degrees 28 minutes, and may be seen at a
+great distance, being somewhat elevated.</p></div>
+
+<p>It may be added that the Cape Falcon of Heceta was the bold elevation
+fronting the sea, known now as Tillamook Head, while the Table Mountain
+was doubtless what we now call Nekahni Mountain, both points especially
+the scenes of Indian myth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>Such was the actual discovery of the Columbia River, and as such the
+Spaniards justly laid claim to Oregon. Their treaty with the United States
+in 1819 was the formal conveyance of their claims to us. Nevertheless
+Heceta only half discovered the River. It seems very strange that with the
+all-important object of two centuries&#8217; search before him, he should so
+readily have succumbed to the fear of the powerful outstanding current.
+But the Spaniards were not in general the patient and persistent students
+of the shores that the English and Americans were. Their charts were in
+general worthless. Nevertheless Spain came nearest &#8220;making good&#8221; of any of
+the European powers. In 1779 Bodega and Arteaga sailed far north and
+sighted a vast snow peak &#8220;higher than Orizaba,&#8221; which was doubtless St.
+Elias. In the same year Martinez and De Haro established themselves at
+Nootka. Subsequent voyages of Bodega, Valdez, and Galiano, and their first
+circumnavigation of Vancouver Island (named by them Quadra&#8217;s Island, but,
+by mutual courtesy and good-will of the British and Spanish rivals,
+designated Vancouver&#8217;s and Quadra&#8217;s Island), gave them a clear title to
+the Pacific Coast of North America from latitude 60 degrees to Mexico.</p>
+
+<p>But &#8220;that is another story.&#8221; What of the Great River? In the very year of
+the declaration of American independence, the most elaborate expedition
+yet fitted out for western discovery, set forth from England in command of
+that Columbus of the eighteenth century, Captain James Cook. After nearly
+two years of important movements in the Southern Hemisphere and among the
+Pacific Islands, Cook turned to that goal of all nations, the coast of
+Oregon. But<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> the same singular fatality which had baffled many of the
+explorers thus far, attended this most skilful navigator and best equipped
+squadron thus far seen on Pacific waters. For Cook passed and repassed the
+near vicinity of both the Straits of Fuca and the Columbia River, but
+without finding either. Killed by the treacherous natives of Hawaii in
+1778, Cook left a great name, a more intelligent conception of world
+geography than was known before, and greatly strengthened claims by Great
+Britain to the ownership of pivotal points of the Pacific. Of all the
+great English navigators, Cook is perhaps best entitled to join the grand
+chorus that sings the <i>Songs of Seven Seas</i>. But he did not see the Great
+River of the West. What had become of it? After the fleeting vision which
+it accorded to Heceta, it seemed to have gone into hiding.</p>
+
+<p>But a new set of motives came into play immediately after Cook&#8217;s voyage.
+The two ships, the <i>Resolution</i> and <i>Discovery</i>, took with them to China a
+quantity of furs from Nootka. A few years earlier, as previously stated,
+the Russian fur-trade from Avatcha to China had been inaugurated. A great
+demand for peltries sprang up at once. A new r&eacute;gime dawned in Chinese and
+East India trade. Gold, silver, and jewels had not thus far rewarded the
+search of explorers. They were reserved for our later days of need. But
+the fur-trade was as good as gold. The North Pacific Coast, already
+interesting, assumed a new importance in the eyes of Europeans. The
+&#8220;struggle for possession&#8221; was on. The ships of all nations converged upon
+the fabled Strait and River of Oregon. English, Dutch, French, Portuguese,
+Spanish, Americans,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> began in the decade of the eighties to crowd to the
+land where the sea-otter, beaver, seal, and many other of the most
+profitable furs could be obtained for a trifle. The dangers of trading and
+the chances of the sea were great, but the profits of success were yet
+greater.</p>
+
+<p>The fur-trade began to take the place of the gold hunt as a matter of
+international strife. The manner in which our own country, weak and
+discordant as its different members were when just emerging from the
+Revolutionary War, entered the lists, and by the marvellous allotment of
+Fortune or the design of Providence, slipped in between the greater
+nations and secured the prize of Oregon, is one of the epics of history,
+one which ought to have some native Tasso or Calderon to celebrate its
+triumph.</p>
+
+<p>Following quickly upon the conclusion of the American War, came a series
+of British, French, and Russian voyages, which gradually centred more
+particularly about Vancouver Island and Nootka Sound. The British exceeded
+the others in numbers and enterprise. Among them we find names now
+preserved at many conspicuous points on the northern coast: as Portlock,
+Hanna, Dixon, Duncan, and Barclay. The most notable of the French was La
+P&eacute;rouse, who was best equipped for scientific research of any one. A
+number of Russian names appear at that period, most of which may yet be
+found upon the maps of Alaska, as Schelikoff, Ismyloff, Betschareff,
+Resanoff, Krustenstern, and Baranoff.</p>
+
+<p>But none of them set eyes on the River, and it seemed more mythical than
+ever. As a result, however, of their various expeditions, incomplete
+though<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> they were, each nation followed the usual practice of claiming
+everything in sight, either in sight of the eye or the imagination, and
+demanded the whole coast by priority of discovery.</p>
+
+<p>Never did a geographical entity seem so to play the <i>ignis fatuus</i> with
+the world as did the River. Thirteen years elapsed from the discovery of
+the Rio San Roque by Heceta before any one of the dozens who had meanwhile
+passed up and down the coast, looked in again between the Cabo de Frondoso
+and the Cabo de San Roque. Then there came on one negative and two
+positive discoveries, and the elusive stream was really found never to be
+lost again.</p>
+
+<p>The negative discovery was that of Captain John Meares in 1788. Since
+England afterwards endeavoured to make the voyages of Meares an important
+link in her chain of proof to the ownership of Oregon, it is worthy of
+some special attention. It happened on this wise. Meares came first to the
+coast of Oregon in 1786, in command of the <i>Nootka</i> to trade for furs for
+the East India Company. With the <i>Nootka</i> was the <i>Sea-Otter</i>, in command
+of Captain Walter Tipping. Both seem to have been brave and capable
+seamen. But disaster followed on their track. For having sailed far up the
+coast, they followed the Aleutian Archipelago eastward to Prince William&#8217;s
+Sound. Separated on the journey, the <i>Nootka</i> reached a safe haven, but
+her consort never arrived, nor was she ever heard of more. The <i>Nootka</i>,
+after an Arctic winter of distress and after losing a large part of the
+crew through the ravages of scurvy, abandoned the trade and returned to
+China. Discouraged by the outcome, the East India Company abandoned the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>
+American trade and confined themselves henceforth to India.</p>
+
+<p>But Meares, finding that the Portuguese had special privileges in the
+fur-trade and in the harbour of Nootka, entered into an arrangement with
+some Portuguese traders whereby he went nominally as supercargo, but
+really as captain of the <i>Felice</i>, under the Portuguese flag. With her
+sailed the <i>Iphigenia</i> with William Douglas occupying a place similar to
+that of Meares. In estimating the subsequent pretensions of Great Britain,
+the student of history may well remember that these two mariners, though
+Englishmen, were sailing under the flag of Portugal.</p>
+
+<p>Reaching again the coast of Oregon, Meares looked in, June 29, 1788, at
+the broad entrance of an extensive strait which he believed to be the
+mythical Strait of Juan de Fuca of two centuries earlier, but which he did
+not pause to explore. He had resolved to solve the riddle of the Rio San
+Roque or the Ensenada de Asuncion or de Heceta, and turned his prow
+southward. On July 5th, in latitude 46 degrees 10 minutes, he perceived a
+deep bay which he considered at once to be the object of his search.
+Essaying to enter, he found the water shoaling with dangerous rapidity and
+a prodigious easterly swell breaking on the shore. From the masthead it
+seemed that the breakers extended clear across the entrance. With rather
+curious timidity for a bold Briton right on the eve of a discovery for
+which all nations had been looking, Meares lost courage and hauled out,
+attaching the name Deception Bay to the inlet and Cape Disappointment to
+the northern promontory, the last a name still officially used.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>Meares left as his final conclusion in the matter, the following
+memorandum: &#8220;We can now assert that there is no such river as that of St.
+Roc exists, as laid down in the Spanish charts.&#8221; In view of this statement
+of the case it would certainly seem that he could not be accepted as a
+witness for English discovery, even if the Portuguese flag had not been
+flying at his masthead.</p>
+
+<p>After bestowing the name of Lookout upon the great headland christened
+Cape Falcon by Heceta and known to us as Tillamook Head, Meares squared
+away for Nootka, and there he spent a very profitable season in the
+fur-trade.</p>
+
+<p>But into the harbour of Nootka that same year of 1788, there sailed the
+ship of destiny, the <i>Columbia Rediviva</i>, in command of John Kendrick.
+With the <i>Columbia</i> came the <i>Lady Washington</i>, commanded by Robert Gray.
+These were the advance guard of Yankee ships which the energies of our
+liberated forefathers were sending forth as an earnest of the coming
+conquest of Oregon by the universal Yankee nation.</p>
+
+<p>Gray and Kendrick were engaged in the fur-trade, and their energy and
+intelligence made it speedily profitable. It took a long time and a long
+arm, sure enough, in that day, to complete the great circuit of the
+outfitting, the bartering, the transferring, the return trip, and the
+final sale;&mdash;three years in all. The ship would be fitted out in Boston or
+New York with trinkets, axes, hatchets, and tobacco, and proceed by the
+Horn to the coast of Oregon,&mdash;six months or sometimes eight. Then up and
+down the coast, as far as known, they would trade with natives for the
+precious furs, making a profit of a thousand per cent. on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> investment.
+Gray on one occasion got for an axe a quantity of furs worth $8000. The
+fur-barter would take another six or eight months. Then with hold packed
+with bales of furs, the ship would square away for Macao or Canton, six or
+eight months more. In China, the cargo of furs would go out and a cargo of
+nankeens, teas, and silks go in, with a great margin of profit at both
+ends. Then away again to Boston, there to sell the proceeds of that three
+years&#8217; &#8220;round-up&#8221; of the seas, for probably ten times the entire cost of
+outfitting and subsistence. The glory, fascination, and gain of the ocean
+were in it, and also its dangers. Of this sufficient witness is found in
+vanished ships, murdered crews, storm, scurvy, famine, and war. But it was
+a great age. Gray and Kendrick were as good specimens of their keen,
+facile, far-sighted countrymen, as Meares and Vancouver were of the
+self-opinionated, determined, yet withal manly and thorough Britons.</p>
+
+<p>Among other pressing matters, such as looking out for good fur-trade in
+order to recoup the Boston merchants who had put their good money into the
+venture, and looking out for the health of their crew, steering clear of
+the uncharted reefs and avoiding the treacherous natives, Gray and
+Kendrick remembered that they were also good Americans. They must see that
+the new Stars and Stripes had their due upon the new coast.</p>
+
+<p>The first voyage of the two Yankee skippers was ended and they set forth
+for another round in 1791, but with ships exchanged, Gray commanding the
+<i>Columbia</i> on this second voyage. The year 1792 was now come, and it was a
+great year in the annals of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> Oregon, three hundred years from Columbus,
+two hundred from Juan de Fuca. The struggle between England and Spain over
+conflicting rights at Nootka, which at one time threatened war, had been
+settled with a measure of amicability. As a commissioner to represent
+Great Britain, Captain George Vancouver was sent out, while Bodega y
+Quadra was empowered to act in like capacity for Spain. Spaniards and
+Britons alike realised that, whatever the Nootka treaty may have been,
+possession was nine points of the law, and both redoubled their efforts to
+push discovery, and especially to make the first complete exploration of
+the Straits of Fuca and the supposed Great River. There were great names
+among the Spaniards in that year, some of which still commemorate some of
+the most interesting geographical points, as Quimper, Malaspina, Fidalgo,
+Caamano, Elisa, Bustamente, Valdez, and Galiano. A list of British names
+now applied to many points, as Vancouver, Puget, Georgia, Baker, Hood,
+Rainier, St. Helens, Whidby, Vashon, Townsend, and others, attests the
+name-bestowing care of the British commander.</p>
+
+<p>In going to Nootka as British commissioner, Vancouver was under
+instructions to make the most careful examination of the coast, especially
+of the rivers or any interoceanic channels, and thereby clear up the many
+conundrums of the ocean on that shore. With the best ship, the war sloop
+<i>Discovery</i>, accompanied by the armed tender <i>Chatham</i>, in command of
+Lieutenant W. R. Broughton, and with the best crew and best general
+equipment yet seen on the coast, it would have been expected that the
+doughty Briton would have found all the important places yet unfound.
+That<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> the Americans beat him in finding the River and that the Spaniards
+beat him in the race through the Straits and around Vancouver Island, may
+be regarded as due partly to a little British obstinacy at a critical
+time, but mainly due to the appointment of the Fates.</p>
+
+<p>On April 27, 1792, Vancouver passed a &#8220;conspicuous point of land composed
+of a cluster of hummocks, moderately high and projecting into the sea.&#8221;
+This cape was in latitude 46 degrees 19 minutes, and Vancouver decided
+that here were doubtless the Cape Disappointment and Deception Bay of
+Meares. In spite of the significant fact that the sea here changed its
+colour, the British commander was so prepossessed with the idea that
+Meares must have decided correctly the nature of the entrance (for how was
+it possible for an English sailor to be wrong and a Spaniard right?) that
+he decided that the opening was not worthy of more attention and passed on
+up the coast. So the English lost their second great chance of being first
+to enter the River.</p>
+
+<p>Two days later the lookout reported a sail, and as the ships drew
+together, the newcomer was seen to be flying the Stars and Stripes. It was
+the <i>Columbia Rediviva</i>, Captain Robert Gray, of Boston. In response to
+Vancouver&#8217;s rather patronising queries, the Yankee skipper gave a summary
+of his log for some months past. Among other things he stated that he had
+passed what seemed to be a powerful river in latitude 46 degrees 10
+minutes, which for nine days he had tried in vain to enter, being repelled
+by the strength of the current. He now proposed returning to that point
+and renewing his effort. Vancouver declined to reconsider his previous
+decision that there could be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> no large river, and passed on to make his
+very elaborate exploration of the Straits of Fuca and their connected
+waters, and to discover to his great chagrin, that the Spaniards had
+forestalled him in point of time.</p>
+
+<p>The vessels parted. Gray sailed south and on May 10, 1792, paused abreast
+of the same reflex of water where before for nine days he had tried vainly
+to enter. The morning of the 11th dawned clear and favourable, light wind,
+gentle sea, a broad, clear channel, plainly of sufficient depth. The time
+was now come. The man and the occasion met. Gray seems from the first to
+have been ready to take some chances for the sake of some great success.
+He always hugged the shore closely enough to be on intimate terms with it.
+And he was ready boldly to seize and use favouring circumstances. So, as
+laconically stated in his log-book, he ran in with all sail set, and at
+ten o&#8217;clock found himself in a large river of fresh water, at a point
+about twenty miles from the ocean.</p>
+
+<p>The geographical Sphinx was answered. Gray was its &OElig;dipus, though
+unlike the ancient Theban myth there was no need that either the Sphinx of
+the Oregon coast or its discoverer perish. The River recognised and
+welcomed its master.</p>
+
+<p>The next day the <i>Columbia</i> moved fifteen miles up the stream. Finding
+that he was out of the channel, Gray stopped further progress and turned
+again seaward. Natives, apparently friendly disposed, thronged in canoes
+round the ship, and a large quantity of furs was secured.</p>
+
+<p>The River already bore many names, but Gray added another, and it was the
+one that has remained,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> the name of his good ship <i>Columbia</i>. Upon the
+southern cape he bestowed the name of Adams, and upon the northern, the
+name Hancock. These also remain.</p>
+
+<p>The great exploit was completed. The long sought River of the West was
+found, and by an American. The path of destiny for the new Republic of the
+West was made secure. Without Oregon we probably would not have acquired
+California, and without a Pacific Coast, the United States would
+inevitably have been but a second-class power, the prey to European
+intrigue. The vast importance of the issue then becomes clear. Gray&#8217;s
+happy voyage, that Yankee foresight and confidence in his seamanship and
+intuitive suiting of times and conditions to results which marks the vital
+turning points of history, differentiate Gray&#8217;s discovery from all others
+upon our north-west coast.</p>
+
+<p>As we view the matter now, a century and more later, we can see that our
+national destiny, and especially the vast part that we now seem at the
+point of taking in world interests through the commerce of the Pacific,
+hung in the balance to a certain extent upon the stubborn adherence by
+Vancouver, the Briton, to the preconceived opinion that there was no
+important river at the point designated by his Spanish predecessor, and
+the contrasted readiness of the American Gray to embrace boldly the
+chances of some great discovery. It is true that the &#8220;Oregon Question&#8221; was
+not to be settled for several decades. Much diplomacy and contention,
+almost to the verge of war, were yet to come, but Gray&#8217;s fortunate dash,
+&#8220;with all sail set, in between the breakers to a large river of fresh
+water,&#8221; gave our nation a lead in the ultimate adjustment of the case,
+which we never lost.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>We have said that there was one negative discovery&mdash;that of Meares&mdash;and
+two positive ones. Gray&#8217;s was one of the two, and that of Broughton, in
+command of the <i>Chatham</i> accompanying Vancouver, was the other.</p>
+
+<p>On the 20th of May, the <i>Columbia Rediviva</i>&mdash;a most auspicious name&mdash;bade
+adieu to the scene of her glory, and with the Stars and Stripes floating
+in triumph at her mizzen-mast, turned northward. Again the American
+captain encountered Vancouver and narrated to him his discovery of the
+Columbia. With deep chagrin at his own failure in the two most important
+objects of discovery in his voyage, the British commander directed
+Broughton to return to latitude 46 degrees 10 minutes, enter the river,
+and proceed as far up as time allowed.</p>
+
+<p>Accordingly, on October 21st, the companion ships parted at the mouth of
+the River, the <i>Discovery</i> proceeding to Monterey, while the <i>Chatham</i>
+crossed the bar, described by Broughton as very bad, and endeavoured to
+ascend the bay that stretched out beautiful and broad before them. But
+finding the channel intricate and soundings variable, the lieutenant
+deemed it advisable to leave the ship at a point which must have been
+about twenty miles from the ocean, and to proceed thence in the cutter.</p>
+
+<p>There is one thing observable in Vancouver&#8217;s account of this expedition of
+Broughton, and that is extreme solicitude to establish these two
+propositions:&mdash;first, that the lower part of the Columbia is a bay and
+that its true mouth is at a point above that reached by Gray; and second,
+that the River is much smaller than it really is. It is hard to reconcile
+the language<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> used in Broughton&#8217;s report as given by Vancouver with the
+supposition of candour and honesty. For while it is true that the lower
+part of the River is of bay-like expanse from four to nine miles in width,
+yet it is entirely fresh and has all river characteristics. One of the
+points especially made by Gray was that he filled his casks with fresh
+water. Moreover, the bar is entirely at the ocean limit. So completely
+does the River debouch into the Ocean, in fact, that in the great flood of
+1894 the clams were killed on the ocean beaches for a distance of several
+miles on either side of the outer headlands through the freshening of the
+sea.</p>
+
+<p>As to the size of the River, Broughton gives its width repeatedly as half
+a mile or a quarter of a mile, whereas it is at almost no point below the
+Cascades less than a mile in width, and a mile and a half is more usual.
+Broughton expresses the conviction that it can never be used for
+navigation by vessels of any size. In view of the vast commerce now
+constantly passing in and out, the absurdity of that idea is and has been
+for years sufficiently exhibited. The animus of the British explorers is
+obvious. By showing that the mouth of the River was really an inlet of the
+sea, they hoped to lay a claim to British occupancy as against Gray&#8217;s
+discovery, and by belittling the size of the River they hoped to save
+their own credit with the British Admiralty for having lost so great a
+chance for first occupation.</p>
+
+<p>Broughton ascended the River to a point near the modern town of Washougal.
+He bestowed British names after the general fashion, as Mt. Hood, Cape
+George, Vancouver Point, Puget&#8217;s Island, Young&#8217;s<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> Bay, Menzies&#8217; Island,
+and Whidby&#8217;s River. With true British assurance, he felt that he had
+&#8220;every reason to believe that the subjects of no other civilised nation or
+state had ever entered this river before; in this opinion he was confirmed
+by Mr. Gray&#8217;s sketch, in which it does not appear that Mr. Gray either saw
+or was ever within five leagues of its entrance.&#8221; Therefore he &#8220;took
+possession of the river, and the country in its vicinity, in His Britannic
+Majesty&#8217;s name.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>In view of all the circumstances of Gray&#8217;s discovery, and his impartation
+of it to the British, this language of Vancouver has a coolness, as John
+Fiske remarks, which would be very refreshing on a hot day.</p>
+
+<p>On November 10th, the <i>Chatham</i> crossed the bar outward bound for Monterey
+to join the <i>Discovery</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Such, in rapid view, were the essential facts in the long and curiously
+complicated finding of our River. We see that various nations bore each a
+part. We see the foundation of the subsequent contention between Great
+Britain and the United States.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h3>
+<p class="chapter">The First Steps across the Wilderness in Search of the River</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Jefferson and Ledyard&mdash;Verendrye&mdash;Montcachabe, the Indian&mdash;The
+Indians&mdash;The Canadians&mdash;Results of the Louisiana Purchase&mdash;Fitting out
+the Lewis and Clark Expedition&mdash;The Winter with the Mandans&mdash;Crossing
+of the Great Divide&mdash;Meeting of Sacajawea and Cameahwait&mdash;Descent from
+the Mountains to the Clearwater and Kimooenim&mdash;Canoe Journey Down the
+Snake and Columbia&mdash;First Sight of Mt. Hood&mdash;Clark in the R&ocirc;le of a
+Magician&mdash;The Timm or Great Falls&mdash;The Sunken Forests&mdash;First
+Appearances of the Tide&mdash;The Winter of 1805-06 at Fort Clatsop&mdash;The
+Beginning of the Return Trip&mdash;Faithfulness of the Indians&mdash;Reception
+of Lewis and Clark in the States&mdash;The Hunt Expedition&mdash;The <i>Voyageurs</i>
+and Trappers&mdash;Slow Progress to the Snake River&mdash;Disasters and Distress
+along the &#8220;Accursed Mad River&#8221;&mdash;Starvation&mdash;New Year&#8217;s Day of 1812&mdash;A
+Respite from Suffering in the Umatilla&mdash;First Sight of the Columbia
+and the Mid-winter Descent to Astoria&mdash;Melancholy Lot of Crooks and
+Day&mdash;Results of the Hunt Expedition.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">The</span> Pacific North-west was discovered both by land and by sea. To Thomas
+Jefferson, the great apostle of Democracy, is due the gathering of
+American interests in the far West, and the opening of the road by which
+American sovereignty was to reach the Pacific. His great mind outran that
+of the ordinary statesman of his time, and, with what seems at first sight
+the strangest inconsistency in our political history, he was the
+State-rights theorist and at the same time the creator of nationality
+beyond any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> other one of our early statesmen. Away back in 1786, Jefferson
+met John Ledyard, one of Cook&#8217;s associates in his great voyage to the
+Pacific Ocean, and grasped from the eager and energetic Yankee sailor, the
+idea of American destiny on the Pacific Coast. The fertile mind of
+Jefferson may justly be considered as the fountain of American exploration
+up the Missouri, across the crest of the Shining Mountains, as they then
+called the Rockies, and down the Columbia to the Pacific. Although
+Jefferson never himself took any steps beyond the Alleghanies, he was the
+inspiration of all the Americans who did take those steps.</p>
+
+<p>Since we are speaking of first steps across the wilderness we should not
+forget that those of other nationalities than ours first crossed the
+American continent. The honour of the pioneer expedition to the crest of
+the Rocky Mountains belongs to the Frenchman, Verendrye. In 1773 he set
+forth from Montreal for the Rocky Mountains, and made many important
+explorations. His party is said to have reached the vicinity of the site
+of Helena, but never saw the sunset side of the Great Divide.</p>
+
+<p>We are told by the interesting French writer, La Page, that the first man
+to proceed across the continent to the shores of the Pacific was a Yazoo
+Indian, Montcachabe or Montcacht Ape by name. According to the story, his
+two-year journey across the great wilderness through every species of
+peril and hardship, savage beasts and forbidding mountains and deserts,
+hostile Indians often barring his progress for many days, was one of the
+most remarkable explorations ever made by man. This Yazoo Indian with the
+long name was a veritable Columbus in the nature of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> his achievements. But
+results for the world could hardly follow his enterprise.</p>
+
+<p>The first traveller to lead a party of civilised men through the Shining,
+or the Stony Mountains, finally known as Rocky Mountains, to the Pacific
+Ocean, was Alexander Mackenzie, a canny Scotchman, leading a party of
+Scotch and French Canadian explorers. In 1793 he reached the Pacific Coast
+at the point of 52 degrees 24 minutes 48 seconds north latitude. His
+inscription upon a rock with letters of vermilion and grease, were read
+many years afterwards: &#8220;Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada by land, July 22,
+1793.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>But the explorations of Canadians were too far north to come within the
+scope of the Pacific North-west of our day. We must therefore take up the
+American expeditions which proceeded from the master mind of Jefferson.
+The first of these was the expedition of Lewis and Clark. This expedition
+did more to broaden the American mind and to fix our national destiny than
+any similar event in our whole history.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as Jefferson was inaugurated president, he had urged upon Congress
+the fitting out of an expedition &#8220;to explore the Missouri River and such
+principal streams of it as, by its course of communication with the waters
+of the Pacific Ocean, whether the Columbia, Oregon, Colorado, or any other
+river, may offer the most direct and practical water communication across
+the continent, for the purposes of commerce.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>But before anything had actually been accomplished in the way of
+exploration, that vast and important event, the Louisiana Purchase, had
+been effected. The significance of this event was but little understood at
+the time, even by statesmen, but Jefferson realised<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> that a great thing
+had been accomplished towards the development of the nation. His
+enthusiasm and hopefulness spread to Congress and to the leaders of
+opinion throughout the land. A like enthusiasm soon possessed the mass of
+population, and emigration westward began. Already the older West was
+teeming with that race of pioneers which has made up the life and the
+grandeur of the nineteenth century. The American hive began to swarm. &#8220;Out
+West&#8221; began to mean something more than Ohio and Kentucky. The distant
+sources of the Missouri and the heights of the Shining Mountains, with all
+the fantastic tales that had been told of them, were drawing our
+grandfathers farther and farther from the old colonial America of the
+eastern coast, and were beginning to modify the whole course of American
+history. The atmosphere of boundless expectation gathered over farm and
+town in the older States and the proposed expedition of Lewis and Clark
+fascinated the people as much as the voyage of Columbus fascinated the
+Spain of his day.</p>
+
+<p>And what manner of men were in charge of this expedition, thus filled with
+both interest and peril? Meriwether Lewis was the leader of the party. He
+was a captain in the U. S. Army who was well known to Jefferson and who
+had been selected by him as possessed of the endurance, boldness, and
+energy which made him the fittest man within Jefferson&#8217;s knowledge for the
+duties of commander. His whole life, from his boyhood days in Virginia,
+had been one of bold adventure. It is related that at the tender age of
+eight, he was already illustrious for successful midnight forays upon the
+coon and possum. He had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> not received a scientific education, but
+immediately upon receiving the appointment of commander of the expedition,
+he entered with great energy upon the acquisition of knowledge along
+geographical lines which would best fit him for preserving an accurate
+record of his journey. William Clark, the lieutenant of the expedition,
+was also a United States officer, a man of very good judgment, boldness,
+and skill in organising his work, and readiness in meeting every kind of
+emergency. The party was made up of fourteen United States regular
+soldiers, nine Kentucky volunteers, two French voyageurs, a hunter, an
+interpreter and a negro servant. The soldiers were offered the munificent
+bounty of retirement upon full pay, with a grant of land. By Jefferson&#8217;s
+directions, the party were encouraged to keep complete records of all they
+saw and did. They carried out the instruction so fully that seven journals
+besides those of Lewis and Clark themselves, were carefully kept, and in
+them a record was made of every important, as well as unimportant,
+discovery, even down to the ingredients of their meals and their doses of
+medicine. It is safe to say that no expedition was ever more fully or
+accurately reported. Although not a single one of the party possessed
+literary attainments, there is nevertheless a singular charm about the
+combined record which has been recognised to this day by repeated editions
+of the work. It was well understood that the success of the expedition
+depended largely upon making friends with the Indians, and the explorers
+were therefore completely fitted out with beads, mirrors, knives, and all
+manner of trinkets.</p>
+
+<p>The summer of 1804 was spent in an easy and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> uneventful journey of five
+months up the Missouri to the country of the Mandan Indians, in what is
+now Dakota. There they determined to winter. The winter was devoted to
+making the acquaintance of Indians and to collecting botanical and
+zo&ouml;logical specimens, of which they sent President Jefferson a large
+amount by a portion of the party which now left them and descended the
+River. And, while speaking of their relations to Indians, it is very
+interesting to note the attitude Jefferson instructed them to take in
+respect to the native tribes. He insisted upon a policy of peace and
+good-will toward all the tribes upon the route. It is observable that
+Jefferson refers in a most considerate and friendly manner to the Indians,
+and instructs the explorers to arrange, if possible, to have some of the
+more important chiefs induced to come back with the explorers to the city
+of Washington. He also points out the desirability of urging any bright
+young Indians to receive such arts as might be useful to them when in
+contact with the white men. Jefferson even goes so far as to advise the
+explorers to take along vaccine matter that the Indians might be
+instructed in the advantages of vaccination. A number of medallion medals
+were made that were intended to be given as presents to Indian chiefs, the
+inscription of which was &#8220;Peace and Friendship,&#8221; with the design of
+clasped hands. These medals, it may be remarked, seem to have been prized
+by the Indians as among their greatest treasures. Several of them have
+been found in Indian graves; one even in a grave of the Nez Perc&eacute; Indians
+in Idaho.</p>
+
+<p>While among the Mandans, the expedition was joined by the most attractive
+personage in it, that is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> to say, Sacajawea. This young Indian woman, the
+only woman in the expedition, seems to have furnished the picturesque
+element in the composition of the party, and she has in later days become
+the subject of great interest on the part of students of Pacific Coast
+history.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img01.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Mt. Adams from the South.<br />Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>On April 7th, everything was in readiness for resuming their journey up
+the River. The explorers embarked again in a squadron of six canoes and
+two pirogues.</p>
+
+<p>On the twelfth day of August, an advance party of the explorers crossed
+the Great Divide of the Rocky Mountains, the birthplace of mighty rivers.
+Descending the western slope, they found themselves in the country of the
+Shoshone Indians. Captain Lewis was leading this advance expedition, and,
+as he neared the highest point of the pass, he realised the significance
+of the transition from the waters of the Missouri to those of the
+Columbia. A quotation from his narrative at this most interesting point of
+the journey gives the reader a better conception than any description
+could, of the feelings of the explorers:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The road was still plain, and as it led directly toward the mountains,
+the stream gradually became smaller, till after their advancing two
+miles further, it had so greatly diminished in width that one of the
+men in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot on each side of the rivulet,
+thanked God that he had lived to bestride the Missouri. As they
+proceeded, their hope of seeing the waters of the Columbia rose to
+almost painful anxiety; when at the distance of four miles from the
+last abrupt turn of the stream, they reached a small gap formed by the
+high mountains which recede on either side, leaving room for the
+Indian road. From the foot of one of the lowest of these mountains,
+which arises with a gentle ascent of about half a mile, issued the
+remotest water<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> of the Missouri. They had now reached the hidden
+sources of that river, which had never before been seen by civilised
+man; and as they quenched their thirst at the chaste and icy
+fountain,&mdash;as they sat down by the brink of that little rivulet, which
+yielded its distant and modest tribute to the parent ocean,&mdash;they felt
+themselves rewarded for all their labours and difficulties. They left
+reluctantly this interesting spot, and pursuing the Indian road
+through the interval of the hills, arrived at the top of a ridge from
+which they saw high mountains, partially covered with snow, still to
+the west of them. The ridge on which they stood formed the dividing
+line between the waters of the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans. They
+found the descent much steeper than on the eastern side, and at the
+distance of three-quarters of a mile, reached a handsome, bold creek
+of cold, clear water running to the westward. They stopped to taste
+for the first time the waters of the Columbia.</p></div>
+
+<p>The party was now upon the western slope of the Great Divide, in the
+vicinity of the present Fort Lemhi in Eastern Idaho. They supposed that
+they were almost to the Pacific, not realising that a thousand miles of
+difficult and dangerous travel and more than two months of time still
+separated them from their wished-for goal. The journey, in fact, from the
+springs of the Missouri to the navigable waters of the Columbia, proved to
+be the most critical of the whole series.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after passing the crest of the mountains, the party encountered a
+band of sixty Indians of the Shoshone tribe, coming to meet them at full
+speed, upon fine horses, and armed for battle. Captain Lewis, who always
+showed great discretion with Indians, took the Stars and Stripes in his
+hand, and advanced alone to meet the party. As soon as the Indians
+perceived that he was a white man, they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> showed signs of great rejoicing,
+and the three leaders of the war-party, dismounting, embraced the American
+captain with great exuberance, shouting words which he afterwards
+discovered meant, &#8220;We are rejoiced! We are rejoiced!&#8221; The valiant captain,
+however, was much more pleased with the hearty good-will of their
+intentions than in the manner of its expression, inasmuch as they had
+transferred a good portion of the war paint from their own faces to his.
+Lewis now brought up his companions and entered upon a long and friendly
+conference with the chief of the party, whose name was Cameahwait. Captain
+Lewis, as the representative of the great American nation, set forth to
+the eager listeners about him, a glowing report as to the benevolence of
+the Great Father at Washington, and his desire that his brothers of the
+West should come into friendly relations with him and trade their furs for
+the beads and blankets and knives which the Indians so highly prize. He
+also explained to them that they would receive from his government guns
+and ammunition which would enable them to cope with the dreaded Sioux or
+the pitiless Blackfeet. Captain Lewis also greatly aroused the curiosity
+of these Indians by indicating to them that he had with him a woman of
+their tribe, and also a man who was perfectly black and yet not painted.
+He now made a proposition to Cameahwait to go back with him and his
+companions to the forks of the Missouri where they had left the main party
+with their goods and boats. Cameahwait very gladly agreed to do this and
+also to provide them with horses for the journey westward to the navigable
+waters of the Columbia.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img02.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Capt. Robert Gray.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img03.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">The <i>Columbia Rediviva</i>.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>After a journey of several days upon the back trail, the party found
+themselves again at the forks of the Missouri, but, somewhat to their
+surprise and consternation, the main party was not there. The Indians at
+first were very much excited, and, believing that they had been deceived
+and that the white men were enticing them to destruction, they were at the
+point of wreaking vengeance upon them. But with great tact and boldness,
+Lewis gave the chief his gun and ammunition, telling him that if it proved
+that he had been a deceiver, they might instantly kill him. Reassured, the
+Indians proceeded onward and in a short time they could descry the boats,
+making their way slowly up the impetuous stream toward a bold promontory
+where the Indians were stationed. In the bow of the foremost boat was
+seated Sacajawea, clad in her bright red blanket, and gazing eagerly at
+the group of Indians, thinking it possible that they might be of her own
+tribe. As the boat approached the band, the keen-sighted little Indian
+woman soon perceived that these people were indeed of her own Shoshone
+tribe. Quickly disembarking, she made her way to them, when suddenly her
+eyes fell upon the chief, Cameahwait. Then to the astonishment of the
+white men who were with her, she broke forth suddenly into a torrent of
+tears which were soon changed into joyful smiles as the chief, with almost
+as much emotion as herself, rushed forward to embrace her. She then
+explained to Captain Lewis that Cameahwait was her own brother, whom she
+had not seen since, as a little girl, she had been seized by the Mandans
+and carried into captivity.</p>
+
+<p>Of course there was now the kindliest feeling <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>between the party of
+explorers and the Indians. They found everything that they needed, horses,
+provisions, and guides, placed at their disposal. They were at that time,
+as would be seen by an inspection of the map, at the head waters of Salmon
+River. They hoped that they might find a route down that powerful stream
+to navigable water. But the Indians assured them that the river was white
+with foam for many miles and disappeared in a chain of terrific snowy
+mountains. It became necessary, therefore, to find a more northerly route,
+and on the last day of August, with twenty-nine horses, having bidden a
+hearty good-bye to the hospitable Shoshones, they turned north-westward
+and soon became entangled in the savage ridges and defiles, already
+spotted with snow, of the Bitter Root Mountains.</p>
+
+<p>They were at this time among some of the upper branches of the second
+largest tributary of the Columbia, named by them Clark&#8217;s Fork, though at
+the present time more commonly known by the more rhythmic title of Pend
+Oreille. After several days of the most difficult, and indeed dangerous,
+journeying of their entire trip, they abandoned the northern route, turned
+southward, and soon reached the wild and beautiful stream which they
+called the Kooskooskie, commonly known to modern times as the Clearwater,
+one of the finest of all the fine rivers of Idaho, the &#8220;Gem of the
+Mountains.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>But they were not yet by any means clear of danger. The country still
+frowned on them with the same forbidding crags, and the same blinding snow
+storms as before. They were approaching the starvation point. The craggy
+precipices were marked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> with almost daily accidents to men and beasts.
+Their only food was the flesh of their precious horses. Under these
+harassing circumstances, it was decided that the wisest thing was for
+Captain Clark to take six of his best men and press rapidly forward in
+search of game and a more favourable country. After a hard journey of
+twenty miles, he found himself upon the crest of a towering cliff, from
+which stretched in front a vast open plain. This was the great plain, now
+covered with wheat-fields and orchards, lying east and north of the
+present city of Lewiston, Idaho. Having made their way down the
+declivities of the Bitter Root Mountains to the prairie, where they found
+a climate that seemed almost tropical after the bitter cold of the high
+mountains, the advance guard camped and waited for the main party to come
+up.</p>
+
+<p>Rejoicing at their release from the distressing conditions of their
+passage of the Bitter Root Mountains, they passed onward to a beautiful
+mountain-enclosed valley, which must have been in the near vicinity of
+what is known as the Kamiah Valley of the present time. Here they found
+themselves with a large body of Indians who became known subsequently as
+the Nez Perc&eacute;s. These Indians appeared to be the most honest, intelligent,
+and attractive they had yet met,&mdash;eager to assist them, kind and helpful,
+although shrewd and business-like in their trading.</p>
+
+<p>The Nez Perc&eacute;s imparted to them the joyful news that the Great River was
+not far distant. Seeing the Clearwater to be a fine, navigable stream, the
+explorers determined to abandon the weary land journey and once more
+commit their fortunes to the waters. They left their horses with the Nez
+Perc&eacute;s, asking that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> they should meet them at that point in the following
+spring when they expected to be on their return trip. The scrupulous
+fidelity with which the Nez Perc&eacute;s carried out their trust is some
+evidence of the oft-made assertion that the treachery characteristic of
+the Indians was learned afterwards from the whites.</p>
+
+<p>With five large and well-filled canoes, and with a good supply of eatables
+and all the other necessaries of life, the explorers now cast themselves
+upon the clear, swift current of the Kooskooskie, and on the 10th of
+October reached that striking and interesting place where the beautiful
+modern town of Lewiston is located, at the junction of the Clearwater and
+the Snake. The turbid, angry, sullen Snake, so striking a contrast with
+the lesser stream, received from the explorers the name of Kimooenim, its
+Indian name. Subsequently they christened it Lewis&#8217;s Fork, but the still
+less attractive name of Snake is the one by which it is universally known.</p>
+
+<p>The journey of a hundred and twenty miles from the junction of the
+Clearwater and the Snake to the junction of the latter stream with the
+mighty Columbia, seems to have been a calm and uneventful journey, though
+the explorers record every manner of event, whether important or
+unimportant. Knowledge of their approach seems to have reached the Indian
+world, and when on October 16th they reached the point where the modern
+city of Pasco is located, they were met by a regular procession of two
+hundred Indians. The two great rivers were then at their lowest point in
+the year, and they found by measurement that the Columbia was 960 yards in
+width and the Snake, 575<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> yards. In the glimmering haze of the pleasant
+October day they noted how the vast, bare prairie stretched southward
+until it was broken by the rounded summits of the Blue Mountains. To their
+astonishment, they found that the Sohulks, who lived at the junction of
+the rivers, so differed from other Indians that the men were content with
+one wife and that they would actually assist her in the drudgery of the
+family life. After several days spent in rest and getting fish, which
+seemed to throng the river in almost countless numbers, they resumed their
+journey upon the magnificent flood of the Columbia. Soon after passing
+what we now call the Umatilla Highland, they caught their first glimpse,
+clear-cut against the horizon of the south-west, of the bold cone of Mt.
+Hood, glistening with its eternal snows. Landing upon the broad prairie
+near where Umatilla is now located, Captain Clark shot a crane and a duck.
+He then perceived a group of Indians who were almost paralysed with terror
+and yet able to make their way with considerable expedition to a little
+group of tepees. Having entered one of these, Captain Clark discovered
+thirty-two Indians, men, women, and children, all of whom seemed to be in
+the greatest terror, wailing and wringing their hands. Endeavouring by
+kind looks and gestures to soothe their perturbation, Captain Clark held
+up a burning glass to catch a stray sunbeam with which to light his pipe.
+Whereupon the consternation of the Indians was redoubled, to be soothed
+only by the arrival of the two Indian guides who were accompanying the
+party. The terrified Indians explained to the guides that they knew that
+Captain Clark must have some bad medicine about him,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> for he had dropped
+out of the sky with a dead crane and a duck, accompanied by a terrible
+noise.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img04.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Mt. Hood from Lost Lake.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The Indians being now convinced that he was a mortal man, and, moreover,
+having heard the sound of the violin which the negro servant carried with
+him, became so enamoured with the strangers that they stayed up with them
+all night, and in the morning collected by hundreds to bid them good-bye.</p>
+
+<p>The Indians had now given them to understand that in a short time they
+would reach the place which they knew as &#8220;Timm.&#8221; This seems to have been
+an Indian word for falls. It still appears in the name Tumwater Falls
+applied to the falls at Celilo on the Columbia. A weird, savage place this
+proved to be; crags of basalt, thrust through the soil, like clenched
+hands, seemed almost to grasp the rushing river. Making several portages,
+the voyagers reached that extraordinary place now called The Dalles, or
+the &#8220;big chute,&#8221; where all the waters of the Columbia are squeezed into a
+crack only a hundred and fifty feet in width. The River, in fact, is
+&#8220;turned on edge.&#8221; The explorers, finding the shore so rough that it was
+difficult to carry their boats over, steered boldly through that witch&#8217;s
+caldron. Though they must have been carried with frightful rapidity
+through the boiling stream, they reached the end of the cataract without
+accident. At this point they began to be aware of the fact that they were
+reaching the sphere of the white traders from the ocean, for they began to
+see blankets, axes, brass kettles, and other articles of civilised
+manufacture. The Indians, too, were more saucy, suspicious, and
+treacherous than those of the upper country.</p>
+
+<p>Being launched upon the calm, deep flood of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> River below The Dalles,
+they observed the phenomenon of the submerged forest, which at a low state
+of water is still conspicuous. They correctly inferred that this indicated
+a damming up of the River at some recent time. They thought indeed that it
+could not have been more than twenty years previous. We know, however,
+that submerged trees or piles, as indicated by remains of old Roman
+wharves in Britain, may remain intact for hundreds of years. This place on
+the Columbia is, however, one of the most interesting of its many
+interesting phenomena. It is evident that within very recent times,
+geologically speaking, there was a prodigious rock-slide from the
+mountains which closed the River, producing the cataract of the Cascades
+and raising the River above, some forty feet.</p>
+
+<p>Here the explorers had their last portage. On the second day of November
+they reached the foot of the Cascades and perceived the movement of the
+tide, which made it plain to them that the ocean was near at hand. Yet, in
+reality, it was much farther than they thought, for the majestic lower
+River extends one hundred and sixty miles from the foot of the last
+cataract to the Pacific. It is interesting to notice comments made by the
+explorers upon the green and fertile islands at the lower end of the
+Cascades, and that spired and turreted volcanic cliff which they called
+Beacon Rock, but which we know now as Castle Rock.</p>
+
+<p>The rest of the journey of Lewis and Clark was a calm floating down the
+tranquil flood of the lower Columbia in the midst of the fog and clouds
+which at that season of the year generally embrace all objects. On
+November 7th the mist suddenly broke away before them, the bold
+mountainous shores vanished in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> front, and, through the parted headlands,
+they looked forth into the expanse of the ocean.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img05.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Eliot Glacier, Mt. Hood.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Their journey was now ended. They had demonstrated the possibility of
+crossing the continent and of linking together the waters of the Missouri
+and the Columbia.</p>
+
+<p>The winter of 1805-06 was spent in log buildings at a point named by the
+explorers, Fort Clatsop, situated on the Lewis and Clark River at the
+south side of the Columbia a few miles from the present site of Astoria.
+The location of this fort has been identified in modern times, as has also
+the location of the salt cairn, upon what is now known as the Seaside
+Beach, commemorated by an inscription.</p>
+
+<p>One of the interesting little human touches in the narrative of Captain
+Lewis describes the casting of a whale upon Clatsop Beach and the journey
+of the party to see the great marine curiosity, as well as to secure some
+of its fat and blubber. The Indian woman, Sacajawea, was to be left behind
+to keep camp while they were all at the beach, but she put up the earnest
+plea that inasmuch as she had never seen any such curiosity as the &#8220;big
+fish,&#8221; and as she had journeyed all those weary miles from the country of
+the Mandans, it seemed hard that she should be denied the privilege of
+satisfying her eyes with a view of the whale. Lewis remarks that the
+request of the poor woman seemed so reasonable that they at once fixed up
+camp in such manner that it could be left, and took her with them, to her
+intense satisfaction.</p>
+
+<p>After four months spent in the fogs and mists of the coast, and without
+seeing any of the ships which the Indians said were accustomed to come in
+considerable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> numbers during the spring and summer, the party turned their
+faces homeward on the 23d of March, 1806. The commander posted upon the
+fort a notice which read as follows:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The object of this last is that through the medium of some civilised
+person who may see the same, it may be made known to the world that
+the party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto annexed
+and who were sent out by the Government of the United States to
+explore the interior of the continent of North America, did penetrate
+the same by way of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers, to the discharge
+of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, at which they arrived on the
+14th day of November, 1805, and departed on their return to the United
+States by the same route by which they had come.</p></div>
+
+<p>They also gave to the chiefs of the Clatsops and Chinooks certificates, to
+which they attached great importance and which were afterwards exhibited
+to other explorers, setting forth the just and hospitable treatment which
+these Indians had accorded the party.</p>
+
+<p>The return from Fort Clatsop to the Missouri was in the main a pleasant
+and successful journey without extraordinary event, except the fact that
+upon their return they discovered the Willamette River, which, strange to
+say, had eluded their observation on their journey down the River in
+November. The journal contains the somewhat quaint statement that the
+chief cultivable region which they discovered in Oregon was Wapatoo
+Island, now known as Sauvie&#8217;s Island, at the mouth of the Willamette. They
+express the conviction that that fertile tract of country and the region
+adjoining might sometime support a population of fifty thousand people.
+They seem to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> regard this as an extraordinary prophecy of prosperity.
+Inasmuch as there are already over four times that number of people in the
+city of Portland, it would seem that Lewis and Clark were hardly &#8220;boomers&#8221;
+in the modern sense of the word.</p>
+
+<p>One interesting thing in connection with the Lewis and Clark expedition
+receives special emphasis from them in the account of their return
+journey, and that is, the faithfulness, honesty, and devotion of the
+Indians when entrusted with any charge, as the care of horses or canoes.
+This character of the Indians was so marked that one can hardly avoid the
+conclusion that the subsequent troubles with the Indians were due very
+largely to abuse by the whites.</p>
+
+<p>No better summary can be given of the scope of this historic journey than
+that by Captain Lewis himself in his journal. He says:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The road by which we went out by way of the Missouri to its head is
+three thousand ninety-six miles; thence by land by way of Lewis River
+over to Clark&#8217;s River and down that to the entrance of Traveller&#8217;s
+Rest Creek, where all the roads from different routes meet; thence
+across the rugged part of the Rocky Mountains to the navigable waters
+of the Columbia, three hundred and ninety-eight miles, thence down the
+river six hundred and forty miles to the Pacific Ocean, making a total
+distance of four thousand one hundred and thirty-four miles. On our
+return in 1806 we reduced the distance from the Mississippi to the
+Pacific Ocean to three thousand five hundred and fifty-five miles.</p></div>
+
+<p>The safe return of the explorers to their homes created a sensation
+throughout the United States and the world. Leaders and men were suitably
+rewarded. Though the expedition was not marked by many <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>remarkable
+adventures or dramatic events, and though the narration given by the
+explorers is of a plain and simple kind with no attempt at literary
+ornamentation, yet occurring, as the expedition did, at such a peculiar
+juncture in our history, and having such an effect to bridge the chasm
+between the old time and the new, this Lewis and Clark expedition has
+continued to receive, and justly, more attention than any other journey in
+our history. President Jefferson, paying a tribute to Captain Lewis in
+1813, expressed himself thus:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Never did a similar event excite more joy throughout the United
+States; the humblest of its citizens have taken a lively interest in
+the issue of this journey and looked with impatience for the
+information it would furnish. Nothing short of the official journals
+of this extraordinary and interesting journey will exhibit the
+importance of the service, the courage, devotion, zeal, and
+perseverance, under circumstances calculated to discourage, which
+animated this little band of heroes, throughout the long dangerous,
+and tedious travel.</p></div>
+
+<p>The expedition of Lewis and Clark may justly be considered as constituting
+the first steps across the wilderness. The breadth of the American
+continent was now known. The general relations of its rivers and mountain
+systems and prairies were understood. Something of its prodigality of
+resources became set forth to the world. A dim consciousness of the
+connection of this vast Pacific domain with the progress of American
+destiny appeared to our grandfathers. And although the wilderness
+traversed by this complete expedition did not come into possession of the
+United States for many years, yet it might well be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> said that our
+subsequent acquirement of it was due to the Lewis and Clark expedition.</p>
+
+<p>Of the many remarkable explorations which followed, with all of their
+adventure and tragedy, we cannot here speak. For several years all the
+expeditions to the far West were the outgrowth of the fur-trade. Most
+remarkable of these early journeys was that of the Hunt party which was
+the land division of the great Astor movement to establish the Pacific Fur
+Company. That company was established by John Jacob Astor of New York for
+the purpose of making a bold and far-reaching attempt to control the
+fur-trade of the Pacific Coast in the interests of the United States.
+While the sea division was upon its journey around Cape Horn, the land
+division was in process of organisation at St. Louis. Wilson Price Hunt,
+the commander of this division, was the second partner in the Astor
+company. He had been merchandising for some years at St. Louis, and had
+become impressed with the financial profits of the fur-trade as well as
+with the vast possibilities of American development on the continent. Hunt
+was a fine type of the pioneer promoter of that age. Brave, humane,
+cheerful, and resolute, he appears to us as the very flower of the
+adventurous Argonauts who were searching for the seal and beaver fleeces
+of the far West.</p>
+
+<p>With Hunt were associated four other partners of the expedition, Crooks,
+McKenzie, Miller, and McCellan. Accompanying the party were two English
+naturalists, Bradbury and Nuttall, who did the first scientific study of
+the Rocky Mountain region. There were forty Canadian <i>voyageurs</i> whose
+duties consisted of rowing, transporting, cooking, and general drudgery.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>
+The remaining twelve of the party consisted of a group of American hunters
+and trappers, the leader of whom was a Virginian named John Day. The
+company was in all respects fitted out most bountifully.</p>
+
+<p>There were at that time two great classes of trappers. The first and most
+numerous were the Canadian <i>voyageurs</i>. These were mainly of French
+descent, many of them being half-breeds. Almost amphibious by nature and
+training, gay and amiable in disposition, with true French vivacity and
+ingenuity, gliding over every harsh experience with laugh and song,
+possessed of quick sympathies and humane instincts which enabled them to
+readily find the best side of the Indians,&mdash;these French <i>voyageurs</i>
+constituted a most interesting as well as indispensable class in the
+trapper&#8217;s business.</p>
+
+<p>The free trappers were an entirely different class of men. They were
+usually American by birth, Virginia and Kentucky being the homes of most
+of them. Patient and indefatigable in their work of trapping, yet, when on
+their annual trip to the towns, given to wild dissipation and savage
+revellings, indifferent to sympathy or company, harsh and cruel to the
+Indians, bold and overbearing, with blood always in their eyes, thunder in
+their voices, and guns in their hands, yet underneath all of their harsh
+exterior having noble hearts, could they but be reached, these now
+vanished trappers have gone to a place in history alongside of the old
+Spartans and the followers of Pizarro and Cortez in Spanish conquest.</p>
+
+<p>Of the many adventures of the Hunt party on the journey up the Missouri,
+we cannot speak. For some reason, although taking a more direct route than
+did<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> Lewis and Clark, and having, to all appearance, a better equipped
+party, they did not make so good time. Guided by Indians, they crossed
+chain after chain of mountains, supposing each to be the summit, only to
+find another yet to succeed. At last on the 15th of September, they stood
+upon a lofty eminence over which they could gaze both eastward and
+westward. Scanning attentively the western horizon, the guide pointed out
+three shining peaks, whose bases, he told them, were touched by a
+tributary of the Columbia River. These peaks are now known as the Three
+Tetons.</p>
+
+<p>And now the party set forth upon the long descent of the western slope,
+passing mountain after mountain and stream after stream, some of the way
+in boats which the <i>voyageurs</i> made from the green timber of the forests,
+and much of the way being obliged to carry their effects around cataracts
+and rapids, and thus losing much time. Nevertheless, they found one long
+stretch of over a hundred miles upon the upper Snake which they navigated
+with comparative ease. But having reached what is now known as the Seven
+Devils country in South-western Idaho, they found themselves in a chain of
+rapids and precipitous bluffs where neither boats nor horses, apparently
+nothing but wings, could be of service. This was in fact the beginning of
+over a hundred miles of the most ragged and inaccessible region upon the
+whole course of the Snake River, a region which even to this day contains
+neither road nor steamboat route, and by which the great State of Idaho is
+separated into two divisions, neither directly accessible to the other by
+any ordinary modes of travel.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>After a forty-mile tramp up and down the river, Hunt decided that the only
+way to escape the difficulties with which they were surrounded, was to
+divide the party into four divisions, hoping that one of them might find
+game and a way out of the forbidding volcanic wastes in which they were
+beleaguered. Two of the parties soon returned. One, being in charge of
+McKenzie, continued upon its course northward and reached the mouth of the
+Columbia, without ever again seeing the main party.</p>
+
+<p>During the weeks that followed, the main party, lost amid the great
+mountains which lie eastward from the present vicinity of Baker City and
+Wallowa Lake, suffered all the torments of famine and cold. In places the
+river ran through volcanic sluiceways, roaring and raging; in some cases,
+although within hearing, yet entirely inaccessible, so that although
+within sound of its angry raving, the travellers were often obliged to lie
+down with tongues parched and swollen for lack of water. The party applied
+to this long volcanic &#8220;chute&#8221; the name of the Devil&#8217;s Scuttle-hole, and to
+the river they applied the name <i>La Rivi&egrave;re Maudite Enrag&eacute;e</i>, or &#8220;Accursed
+Mad River.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>The lives of the party were evidently at stake. In the emergency Hunt
+determined to divide his force into two divisions, one on the north and
+one on the south side of the river. From the 9th of November until the
+first part of December they urged on this dismal and heart-sickening
+march. They passed a few wretched Indian camps where they managed to
+secure dogs for food, and once they got a few horses. The frightened and
+half-starved Indians could give them no clear information as to the
+location of the Great<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> River, but they signified that they supposed it to
+be yet a long way off. The party was evidently approaching something, for
+gigantic snowy mountains now loomed dimly through the winter mists.
+Finding it impossible to make headway against blinding snowstorms and up
+the icy crags, they turned their course down to the river itself and made
+a cheerless camp. In the morning they were startled by seeing upon the
+opposite side of the river, a group of men more wretched and desolate than
+themselves. It soon appeared that this was the other party, which had
+entirely failed in finding either food or guidance from the Indians.
+Finding it necessary that some provision should be made for these dying
+men, Hunt constructed a rude canoe from the limbs of trees and the skin of
+one of the horses. In this crazy craft one of the daring Canadian
+<i>voyageurs</i> made his way with some of the horse meat, which, poor as it
+was, was sufficient to save life for the time.</p>
+
+<p>With their little remaining strength, they pressed on down the river until
+they reached another small village of the wretched Snake Indians. Urging
+these Indians to provide for them a guide, and at last securing one by the
+most bounteous offers of rewards, Hunt succeeded in gathering all of his
+party together, with the exception of six sick men whom they were obliged
+to leave to the tender mercies of the Indians.</p>
+
+<p>For another fortnight, the cold and hungry party floundered painfully
+through the snow across the rugged mountains which lie between what we now
+know as the Powder River Valley and the Grande Ronde. Reaching a lofty
+mountain height on the last<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> day of December, they looked far down into a
+fair and snowless prairie, bathed in sunshine and appearing to the
+winter-worn travellers like a gleam of summer. Moreover, they soon
+discerned a group of Indian lodges which they judged were well supplied
+with dogs and horses. Thither hastening eagerly, they soon found
+themselves in a beautiful valley, which from their description must have
+been the Grande Ronde Valley. Beautiful at all times, it must have seemed
+trebly so to these ragged and famished wanderers.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning the new year of 1812 shone in upon them bright and
+cheerful, as if to make amends for the stern severity of the outgoing
+year. And now the Canadians insisted upon having their New Year&#8217;s holiday.
+Not even death and famine could rob the light-hearted <i>voyageurs</i> of their
+festivals. So with dance and song and with dog meat, roasted, boiled,
+fried, and fricasseed, they met the newly-crowned year with their Gallic
+happiness and abandon.</p>
+
+<p>The Indians assured them that they could reach the Great River within
+three days. But they found it twice that, and their way led across another
+lofty chain of snowy mountains, before the canopy of clouds which hung
+above them parted. There, looking far down from their snowy eyre, they
+beheld the boundless and sunny plains of the Great River. Swiftly
+descending the slopes of the mountains, they emerged upon that finest land
+of all Eastern Oregon, the plains of the Umatilla. Here they found the
+tribe of the Tushepaw Indians with thirty-four lodges and two hundred
+horses. More significant than these to Hunt were axes, kettles, and other
+implements of white<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> construction, indicating that these Indians had
+already come into communication with the traders upon the lower River. In
+answer to his eager questions, the Tushepaws informed him that the Great
+River was but two days distant and that a small party of white men had
+just descended it. Being now certain that this was the advance guard which
+had left him at the Devil&#8217;s Scuttle-hole, Hunt felt sure that they were
+safe and was therefore relieved of one great anxiety.</p>
+
+<p>After a few days&#8217; rest upon the pleasant prairies and in the comparatively
+genial climate of the Umatilla, the party set forth upon horses obtained
+from the Tushepaws, and after a pleasant ride of two days across the
+rolling prairie, they beheld flowing at their feet, a majestic stream,
+deep and blue, a mile in width, sweeping toward the sunset, evidently the
+Columbia. At the great falls of the River, known to the Indians as the
+Timm or the Tumwater, just above what we now call Dalles City, Hunt
+exchanged his horses for canoes. This last stage of two hundred and twenty
+miles by boat down the River, was calm and peaceful and a refreshing rest
+after the distress and disaster of their winter journey through the
+mountains. Not till the 15th of February, however, did they reach the
+newly christened town of Astoria. Rounding the bluffs of Tongue Point,
+they beheld with full hearts the Stars and Stripes floating over the only
+civilised abode west of St. Louis. Westward they saw the parted headlands
+between which the River pours its floods into the ocean. As the boats drew
+near the shore, the whole population, trappers, sailors, and Indians, came
+down to meet them. Foremost in the crowd they saw the members of the party
+which had gone on ahead<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> through the Snake River Mountains. Having had no
+hope that Hunt and his men could survive the famine and the cold, these
+members of the advance guard were the more rejoiced to see them. The
+Canadians, with their French vivacity, rushed into each other&#8217;s arms,
+sobbing and hugging like so many schoolgirls. Even the nonchalant
+Americans and the stiff-jawed Scotchmen smiled and gave themselves up to
+the gladness of the hour. The next two or three days were mainly devoted
+to eating and telling stories.</p>
+
+<p>As we have seen, they had lost several of their number from starvation and
+drowning along the banks of the Snake River. They had also left six sick
+men with the Indians in the heart of the mountains. They had little hope
+of ever seeing these again, but the next summer the party on their way up
+the Columbia River, saw two wretched looking beings, naked and haggard,
+wandering on the river bank near the mouth of the Umatilla. Stopping to
+investigate, they discovered that these were Day and Crooks, the leaders
+of the party which they had left behind. Their forlorn plight was relieved
+with food and clothes, and, having been taken into the boat, they related
+their dismal tale. It appeared that they had been provided sufficiently by
+the Indians to sustain their lives through the winter. In the spring they
+had left the Canadians among the Indians, and had set forth in the hope of
+reaching the Great River. But having reached The Dalles, they had been
+robbed of rifles and ammunition, stripped of their clothing, and driven
+forth into the wilderness. They were almost at the point of a final
+surrender to ill-fortune when they beheld the rescuing boat. So, with
+joyful hearts, they turned their boat&#8217;s prow to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> Astoria, which they
+reached in safety. But poor Day never regained his health. His mind was
+shattered by the hardships of his journey, and he soon pined away and
+died. The barren and rugged shores of the John Day River in Eastern Oregon
+take on an added interest in view of the sad story of the brave hunter who
+discovered them, and who wandered in destitution for so many days beside
+them. Strange to say, the four Canadians who remained among the Indians
+were afterwards found alive, though utterly destitute of all things. Hence
+it appears that the loss of life in this difficult journey was not great.</p>
+
+<p>The journeys here narrated may be considered as covering what we have
+designated as the first steps across the wilderness. Within a few years,
+many parties of trappers, explorers, and adventurers, with some
+scientists, and a little later, parties of missionaries, made their way
+over the great plains, through the defiles of the mountains, and down the
+barren shores of the Snake River to the Columbia and the sea. Each party
+had its special experiences, and made its special contribution to
+geographical or commercial advancement. But to the parties led by Lewis
+and Clark and by Hunt, we must accord the greatest meed of praise for
+having broken the first pathways across the continent and for having
+linked the two oceans by the footsteps of civilised men.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h3>
+<p class="chapter">The Fur-Traders, their Bateaux, and their Stations</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Importance of the Fur-trade as Connected with all Other Parts of the
+History&mdash;Fur-hunters Compared with Gold-hunters&mdash;Sea-otter&mdash;Ledyard&#8217;s
+Exploration&mdash;The European Inaugurators of the Trade&mdash;Beginnings of the
+American Trade&mdash;The Great British Companies and their Struggles with
+the French&mdash;Mackenzie&#8217;s Journey across the Continent&mdash;Thompson&#8217;s
+Descent of the Columbia&mdash;Union of the Two Great Canadian
+Companies&mdash;The American Fur Companies&mdash;Henry&#8217;s Fort&mdash;The Winship
+Enterprise on the River&mdash;John Jacob Astor and the Pacific Fur
+Company&mdash;Rivalry with the North-westers&mdash;Arrangements for Expeditions
+by Land and Sea, and the Personnel of these&mdash;Voyage of the <i>Tonquin</i>
+and her Disastrous Approach of the River&mdash;Founding of
+Astoria&mdash;Appearance of Thompson and the North-westers&mdash;Interior
+Expedition and Founding of Fort Okonogan&mdash;McDougall, the Smallpox
+Chief and Bridegroom of the Indian Princess&mdash;Evil Tidings in Regard to
+the <i>Tonquin</i>&mdash;Other Disasters&mdash;War of 1812 and Sale of Astoria to the
+North-westers&mdash;Restoration of Astoria to the Americans&mdash;Monopolisation
+of the River by the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company&mdash;Their Expeditions&mdash;Hard Lot
+of Madame Dorion and her Children&mdash;Adventures of Alexander Ross&mdash;The
+Forts and General Plan of Work&mdash;Fort Vancouver and its Remarkable
+Advantages&mdash;Dr. McLoughlin, or the &#8220;White Eagle&#8221;&mdash;Profits of the
+Fur-trade&mdash;The Canoes and Bateaux and the <i>Voyageurs</i>&mdash;The Routes of
+the Brigades&mdash;Later Americans.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">As</span> the reader will doubtless already have discovered, we are presenting
+the history of the River topically rather than chronologically. The
+various great stages of progress, discovery by sea, discovery by land,
+fur-trade, Indian wars, missionary<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> undertakings, international contests,
+beginnings of steamboat navigation, and settlement, overlap each other,
+and each topic compels us in a measure to anticipate its successors. This
+is especially true of the topic treated of in this chapter.</p>
+
+<p>The fur-trade was an important factor in the eras of discovery both by
+land and by sea, in the Indian wars and in the era of settlement, while
+the strife of nations for the possession of the land of Oregon is almost a
+history of the fur companies and their international policies. Remembering
+this synthetic nature of these features of our history, we shall
+endeavour, with as little repetition as possible, to present a coherent
+picture of that great era of the fur-traders.</p>
+
+<p>Without doubt one of the earliest uses to which man has put the lower
+animals is that of clothing his body in their captured skins. The
+acquisition of furs has been a special feature of the colder climes. It is
+obviously also a feature of discovery and conquest, for it is the
+wilderness only which yields any considerable number of fur-producing
+animals. Thus navigation, commerce, discovery, invention, economics,
+finally international wars and policies, have been rooted to a large
+degree in this primal business. The fur-hunters have held the hunters of
+gold and precious stones and spicery a close race in the rank of world
+movers. Indeed it may well be questioned whether results of greater moment
+to humanity have not proceeded from the quest for furs than from that for
+gold.</p>
+
+<p>The Spaniards expended their energies in the gold and silver hunt in
+Mexico and Peru and annihilated the races of those lands in their pitiless
+rapacity. The other great exploring nations of the sixteenth century,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>
+especially the French, while not indifferent to the possibility of
+encountering the precious metals, found more certain and permanent results
+in the less feverish and dazzling pursuit of the wild animals of the
+wilderness. Neither the hunters for gold nor those for peltries were the
+state-builders and home-builders without whom our American Union would not
+exist. But they were the avant-couriers of both. Our land of Oregon has
+had the peculiar fortune of being opened by both for both.</p>
+
+<p>China furnished the most active and convenient market for furs to those
+who secured their supplies on the Pacific Coast of North America. The
+Russians were the first Europeans to enter the Chinese market, and they
+began their voyages as early as 1741.</p>
+
+<p>The sea-otter seems to have had its chief habitat on the Pacific shore
+from Oregon to Alaska, and, as the ships of all nations began to crowd
+upon the location of the fabled Strait of Anian, the trade with the
+natives for these precious furs became constantly augmented, until the
+curious and interesting creatures, so fatally attractive, were added to
+the long list of &#8220;lower creatures&#8221; whom the greed of the &#8220;higher
+creatures&#8221; has exterminated. A book by Coxe published in London in 1787
+first made known to the English-speaking people the rich profits of the
+Russians from the transportation of the sea-otter skins to China. He
+instanced a case of a profit of $50,000 from a single cargo. It had,
+however, been known in 1785 from the report of the voyage of Captain Cook
+that the North-west Coast of America contained a new source of wealth from
+the accumulation of these furs by the Indians<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> and their eager desire to
+trade them for trinkets and implements of civilised manufacture.</p>
+
+<p>The first American to comprehend the greatness of the fur-trade on the
+North-west Coast of the Pacific, both as a means of profit to himself and
+as a patriotic impulse to direct his own nation into the channels of
+westward expansion, was John Ledyard. Thomas Jefferson and John Paul Jones
+became deeply interested in Ledyard&#8217;s extravagant hopes of future wealth
+and glory, but all his efforts came to naught, and in 1788 this brilliant
+adventurer, just on the eve of setting out to explore the interior of
+Africa, suddenly put an end to his own life at Cairo, Egypt. Ledyard
+should always be remembered by his countrymen, for, though his glowing
+visions were unfulfilled, he was an important link in the great chain
+which bound Oregon to our own country.</p>
+
+<p>During these same years, several Englishmen, already noted in the chapter
+on discovery, Portlock, Dixon, Hanna, Barclay, and Meares, were actively
+engaged in the fur-trade, while the voyages of La P&eacute;rouse and Marchand
+carried the flag of France on the same quest, and Spain&#8217;s once illustrious
+emblem of world dominion was borne by Quadra, Valdes, Galiano, Fidalgo,
+Quimper, Caamano, and several others. While these explorers all were
+impelled in part by national pride and diplomacy, the hope of sharing the
+spoils of the sea-otter droves was the chief lure to the tempestuous seas
+of the North Pacific.</p>
+
+<p>In Bullfinch&#8217;s <i>Oregon and El Dorado</i> is a very interesting narration of
+the inception of the American part in the fur-trade of Oregon. In a
+building known as the Coolidge Building in Boston a company were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> gathered
+together in 1787 discussing the reports, then first made public, of Cook&#8217;s
+voyages. Mr. Joseph Barrell, a rich merchant of Boston, was much impressed
+with Cook&#8217;s account of the chances of barter with the Indians for furs and
+the disposal of them in China for yet more profitable cargoes of teas,
+silks, and other characteristic commodities of that land. As a result of
+this conference, a company was formed in Boston to prosecute such
+enterprise, the members of the company, Messrs. Barrell, Brown, Bulfinch,
+Darby, Hatch, and Pintard, being among the foremost of the business men in
+Boston in that good year of the creation of the American Constitution.</p>
+
+<p>The enterprising Yankees rapidly drew to the front, so that during the
+years from 1790 to 1818, the records show one hundred and eight American
+vessels regularly engaged in the business, while only twenty-two English,
+with a few Portuguese and French are found. It should, of course be
+remembered that the tremendous strife of the Napoleonic Wars was
+engrossing the attention of European nations during that time. So well
+known did the Boston navigators become in that period that the common name
+of Americans used by the Oregon Indians was &#8220;Bostons.&#8221; Robert Gray, the
+discoverer of the Columbia River, was fitted out by Bulfinch and others of
+the first Boston Company. During the period under consideration the
+profits of the traffic were usually very great, though variable, sometimes
+actual losses being incurred, while disaster from wreck, storm, scurvy,
+and murderous Indians was frequent. During the two years, 1786 and 1787,
+if Dixon is to be followed, there were sold in Canton five thousand eight
+hundred <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>sea-otter hides for $160,700. Swan figures that with the four
+years ending with 1802, forty-eight thousand five hundred skins were sold.
+Sturgis states that he knew a capital of $50,000 to yield a gross income
+of $284,000. He relates that he had collected as high as six thousand fine
+skins in a single voyage and once secured five hundred and sixty of the
+best quality in one day. The Indians, however, learned to become very
+expert traders, and as they discovered the eagerness with which the whites
+sought their furs, they raised the price. They became, moreover, very
+capricious and unreliable, so that the phenomenal profits could no longer
+be obtained.</p>
+
+<p>The stage of the history of the fur-trade of which we have thus far spoken
+may be called its first era of a free-for-all rush to the new seas, with
+no vast moneyed interests in any position of leadership. But commercial
+conditions were already in existence which were bound to reverse the
+situation.</p>
+
+<p>Great operators, gigantic companies, foreshadowings of the great trusts of
+the present, with monopolistic aims, were seeking the ear of the British
+Government, while enterprises, larger, though not so monopolistic, were
+rapidly forming in the United States. The great monopolies of Europe had
+indeed existed long prior to the period of the Oregon fur-traders. As far
+back as the beginning of the sixteenth century, De Monts, Pontgrave,
+Champlain, and other great French explorers had secured monopolies on the
+fur-trade from Louis XIII. and his minister, Richelieu. Later La Salle,
+Hennepin, D&#8217;Iberville, and others had the same advantages. The St.
+Lawrence, the Great Lakes, and the upper Mississippi were the great<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>
+&#8220;preserve&#8221; of these great concessionaires. The English and their American
+Colonists set themselves in battle array against the monopolistic Bourbon
+methods of handling the vast domain which the genius and enterprise of De
+Monts and Champlain had won for France, with the result that upon the
+heights of Abraham the Fleur-de-Lis was lowered before the Cross of St.
+George, and North America became English instead of Gallic, and one of the
+world&#8217;s milestones was set for good. Then by one of those beautiful
+ironies of history which baffle all prescience, victorious Britain
+violated the principles of her own conquest and adopted the methods of
+Bourbon tyranny and monopoly, with the result that another milestone was
+set on the highway of liberty and the new continent became American
+instead of European.</p>
+
+<p>But out of the struggles of that century, French, English, and American,
+out of the final distribution of territory, by which England retained
+Canada and with it a large French and Indian population, mingled with
+English and Scotch,&mdash;out of these curious comminglings, economic,
+commercial, political, religious, and ethnic, grew the great English fur
+companies, whose history was largely wrought out on the shores of the
+Columbia, and from whose juxtaposition with the American State-builder the
+romance and epic grandeur of the history of the River largely comes.</p>
+
+<p>Many enterprises were started by the French and English in the seventeenth
+century, but the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company became the Goliath of them all. The
+first charter of this gigantic organisation was granted in 1670 by Charles
+II. to Prince Rupert and seventeen others, with a capital stock of ten
+thousand five<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> hundred pounds. From this small beginning, the profits were
+so great that, notwithstanding the loss of two hundred thousand pounds
+from the French wars during the latter part of the century, the Company
+declared dividends of from twenty-five to fifty per cent.</p>
+
+<p>The field of operations was gradually extended from the south-eastern
+regions contiguous to Hudson&#8217;s Bay until it embraced the vast and dreary
+expanses of snowy prairie traversed by the Saskatchewan, the Athabasca,
+the Peace, and finally the Mackenzie. Many of the greatest expeditions by
+land under British auspices which resulted in great geographical
+discoveries were primarily designed for the expansion of the fur-trade.</p>
+
+<p>Just at the critical moment, both for the great Canadian Fur Company, as
+well as for discovery and acquisition in the region of the Columbia, a
+most important and remarkable champion entered the lists. This was the
+North-west Fur Company of Montreal. It was one of the legitimate
+consequences of the treaty of Paris in 1763, ceding Canada to Great
+Britain. The French in Canada became British subjects by that treaty, and
+many of them had extensive interests as well as experience in the fur
+business. Furthermore a number of Scotchmen of great enterprise and
+intelligence betook themselves to Canada, eager to partake of the
+boundless opportunities offered by the new shuffle of the cards. These
+Scotchmen and Frenchmen became natural partners in the foundation of
+enterprises independent of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay monopoly. In 1783 a group of
+the boldest and most energetic of these active spirits, of whom the
+leaders were McGillivray, McTavish, Benjamin and Joseph <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>Frobisher,
+Rechebleve, Thain, and Frazer, united in the formation of the North-west
+Fur Company. Bitter rivalry soon arose between the new company and the old
+monopoly. Following the usual history of special privilege, the old
+company, which had now been in existence one hundred and thirteen years,
+had learned to depend more on privilege than on enterprise, and had become
+somewhat degenerate. The North-westers &#8220;rustled&#8221; for new business in new
+regions. In 1789 Alexander Mackenzie, as one of the North-westers, made
+his way, with incredible hardship, down the river which bears his name to
+the Frozen Ocean. A few years later he made the first journey to the shore
+of the Pacific, commemorating his course by painting on a rock on the
+shore of the Cascade Inlet, north-east of Vancouver Island, these words:
+&#8220;Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land, the twenty-second of July, one
+thousand seven hundred and ninety-three.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>As a result of the new undertakings set on foot by the North-westers and
+the reawakened Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company, both companies entered the Columbia
+Valley. The struggle for possession of Oregon between the English and
+American fur companies and their government was on. In the summer of 1810
+David Thompson of the North-west company crossed the continental divide by
+the Athabasca Pass in latitude 52&deg; 25&prime;. The North-westers had heard of the
+Astor enterprise in New York and realised that they must be up and doing
+if they would control the land of the Oregon. Although the character of
+soil, climate, and productions of the Columbia Valley was but imperfectly
+known, enough had been derived from Lewis and Clark, and from ocean
+discoveries to make it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> plain that the Columbia furnished the most
+convenient access to the interior from the sea, and that its numerous
+tributaries furnished a network of boatable waters unequalled on the
+Western slope, while there was every reason to suppose that its forests
+abounded in fur-bearing animals and that its climate would admit of much
+longer seasons of work than was possible in the biting winters of the
+Athabasca. It became vital to the continental magnitude of the designs of
+the Canadian companies that they control Oregon.</p>
+
+<p>For greater topical clearness we will anticipate a little at this point
+and state that after several years of intense rivalry it became plain to
+the British Parliament that it was suicidal to allow a policy of division
+in the face of a common enemy. Hence in 1821, by act of Parliament, the
+two companies were reorganised and united under a charter which was to
+last twenty-one years (and as a matter of fact was renewed at the end of
+that time), and under the provisions of which the North-westers were to
+have equal shares in both stock and offices, though the name of the
+Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company, was retained. It will be remembered therefore, that
+up to the year 1821, the two great Canadian companies were distinct, and
+that during that time the North-west Company was much the more active and
+aggressive in the Columbia Valley, but that after that date the entire
+force of the Canadian Companies was combined under the name of the old
+monopoly. But however bitter the first enmity of the Canadian rivals, they
+agreed on the general proposition that the Americans must be checkmated,
+and during the score of years prior to their coalition they were seizing
+the pivotal points of the Oregon country.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> During the next two decades
+they created a vast network of forts and stations, and reduced the country
+contiguous to the River and its tributaries to a system so elaborate and
+interesting as to be worthy of extended study. We can sketch only its more
+general features. And the more perfectly to understand them, we must
+arrest here the story of the great Canadian monopoly and bring up the
+movement of the American fur companies.</p>
+
+<p>It may be noted, first of all, that by reason of the quicker colonisation
+and settlement and consequent establishment of agriculture and other arts
+pertaining to home life, the region of the United States east of the
+Mississippi never became the natural habitat of the trapper and fur-trader
+to anything like the degree of Canada and the western part of our own
+land. Nevertheless extensive fur interests grew up on the Mississippi
+during the French r&eacute;gime, and in 1763-4 August and Pierre Choteau located
+a trading post on the present site of St. Louis, and the fascinating
+history of that great capital began.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the American trading companies confined their operations to the
+east side of the Rocky Mountains. But the Missouri Fur Company of St.
+Louis, composed of a miscellaneous group of Americans and
+Hispano-Gallo-Americans, under the presidency of Manuel Lisa, a bold and
+enterprising Spaniard, took a step over the crest of the mountains and
+established the first trading post upon the waters of the Columbia. This
+was in 1809. Andrew Henry, one of the partners of the aforesaid company,
+crossed the mountains in that year and a year later built a fort on a
+branch of Snake River. This seems to have been on what<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> subsequently
+became known as Henry&#8217;s River. It was in one of the wildest and grandest
+regions of all that wild grand section of Snake River. Henry&#8217;s River
+drains the north side of the Three Tetons, while the south branch, known
+afterwards as Lewis and finally as Snake River, drains the south of that
+group of mountains. <i>Henry must be remembered as the first American and
+the first white man recorded in history who built any structure upon any
+tributary of our River, and the year was 1810.</i> Both Henry and his Company
+had hopes of accomplishing great things in the way of the fur-trade in
+that very favourable region. But the next year the Indians were so
+threatening that the fort was forsaken and the party returned to the
+Missouri. When the Hunt party in the fall of 1811 sought refuge at this
+point they found only a group of abandoned huts, with no provisions or
+equipment of which they could make any use.</p>
+
+<p>But though Henry&#8217;s fort was but a transient matter, his American
+countrymen were beginning to press through the open gateways of both
+mountain and sea. In the early part of 1809 the Winship brothers of
+Boston, together with several other keen-sighted Yankees, formed a project
+for a definite post on the Columbia River, proposing to reach their
+destination by ship. Accordingly they fitted out an old vessel known as
+the <i>Albatross</i>, with Nathan Winship as captain, William Gale as captain&#8217;s
+assistant, and William Smith as first mate. Captain Gale kept a journal of
+the entire enterprise, and it is one of the most interesting and valuable
+of the many ship&#8217;s records of the North-western Coast.</p>
+
+<p>Setting sail with a crew of twenty-two men and an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> excellent supply of
+stores and ammunition, and abundance of tools and hardware for erecting
+needful buildings, the <i>Albatross</i> left Boston in the summer of 1809.
+After a slow and tedious, but very healthful and comfortable voyage,
+stopping at the Hawaiian Islands on the route, the <i>Albatross</i> reached the
+mouth of the Columbia River on May 26, 1810. Many American and other ships
+had entered the mouth of the River prior to that date, but so far as known
+none had ascended any considerable distance. Apparently Gray and Broughton
+were the only shipmasters who had ascended above the wide expanse now
+known as Gray&#8217;s Bay, while the Lewis and Clark expedition contained the
+only white men who had seen the river above tide-water. The Winship
+enterprise may be regarded with great interest, therefore, as the first
+real attempt to plant a permanent establishment on the banks of the River.</p>
+
+<p>Winship and his companions spent some days in careful examination of the
+river banks and as a result of their search they decided on a strip of
+valley land formed by a narrowing of the River on the north and an
+indentation of the mountain on the south. This pleasant strip of fertile
+land is located on the south bank of the lordly stream, and its lower end
+is about forty-five miles from the ocean. Being partially covered with a
+beautiful grove of oak trees, the first to be seen on the ascent of the
+River, the place received the name of Oak Point. It may be noted that this
+name was subsequently transferred to a promontory nearly opposite on the
+north bank, and this circumstance has led many to locate erroneously the
+site of the first buildings designed for permanent use<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> on the banks of
+the Columbia. And such these were, for the Lewis and Clark structures at
+what they called Fort Clatsop, erected four and a half years earlier, were
+meant only for a winter&#8217;s use. But the Winship party had glowing visions
+of a great emporium of the fur-trade, another Montreal or St. Louis, to
+inaugurate a new era for their country and themselves. They designed
+paying the Indians for their lands and in every way treating them justly.
+They seem in short to have had a very high conception of the dignity and
+worth of their enterprise. They were worthy of the highest success, and
+the student of to-day cannot but grieve that their high hopes were dashed
+with disaster.</p>
+
+<p>Tying the <i>Albatross</i> to the bank on June 4th, they entered at once with
+great energy on the task of felling trees, rearing a large log house,
+clearing a garden spot, in which they at once began the planting of seeds,
+and getting ready to trade with the natives. But within four days the
+River began to rise rapidly, and the busy fort-builders perceived to their
+dismay that they had located on land subject to inundation. All the work
+thus far done went for naught, and they pulled their fort to pieces and
+floated the logs down stream a quarter of a mile to a higher place. There
+they resumed their buildings with redoubled energy. But within a week a
+much more dangerous situation again, and this time permanently, arrested
+their grand project. This time it was the very men toward whom they had
+entertained such just and benevolent designs, the Indians, who thwarted
+the plans. For, as Captain Gale narrates in a most entertaining manner, a
+large body of Chinooks and Cheheeles, armed with bows and arrows, and some
+muskets, made their <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>appearance, announcing that they were on their way to
+war against the Culaworth tribe who had killed one of their chiefs a year
+before. But the next day the Indians massing themselves about the whites,
+gave such plain indications that the previous declaration was a pretence
+that the party hastily got into a position of defence. Their cannon on
+board the <i>Albatross</i> had already been loaded in anticipation of
+emergencies, and so plain was it that they could make a deadly defence
+that the threatened attack did not come. A long &#8220;pow-wow&#8221; ensued instead,
+and the Chinooks insisted that the builders must select a site lower down
+the river. After due consideration the party decided that any determined
+opposition by the Indians would so impair their enterprise, even though
+they might be able to defend themselves, that it would be best to seek a
+new location. Accordingly they reloaded their effects, dropped down the
+River, and finally decided to make a voyage down the California coast and
+return the next year. Return they did, but by that time the next year the
+Pacific Fur Company had already located at Astoria the first permanent
+American settlement, and the Winship enterprise faded away. That the
+design of the Winships was not at all chimerical is apparent from the fact
+that within twenty years the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company had made of Vancouver,
+sixty miles farther up the River, the very kind of a trading entrep&ocirc;t of
+which the Winships had dreamed. Their dream was reasonable, but the time
+and place were unpropitious.</p>
+
+<p>A quotation from Captain Gale&#8217;s journal will give a conception of his
+feelings:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>June 12th.&mdash;The ship dropped
+further down the River, and it was now determined to abandon all attempts to force a settlement. We have
+taken off the goats and hogs which were left on shore for the use of
+the settlement, and thus we have to abandon the business, after
+having, with great difficulty and labour, got about forty-five miles
+above Cape Disappointment; and with great trouble began to clear the
+land and build a house a second time, after cutting timber enough to
+finish nearly one-half, and having two of our hands disabled in the
+work. It is, indeed, cutting to be obliged to knuckle to those whom
+you have not the least fear of, but whom, from motives of prudence,
+you are obliged to treat with forbearance. What can be more
+disagreeable than to sit at the table with a number of these rascally
+chiefs, who while they supply their greedy mouths with your food with
+one hand, their bloods boil within them to cut your throat with the
+other, without the least provocation.</p></div>
+
+<p>On the way out of the River Captain Winship learned that the Chinooks
+designed capturing his vessel, and would doubtless have done so, had not
+his vigilance prevented.</p>
+
+<p>While the crew of the <i>Albatross</i> were engaged in these adventures the
+largest American Fur Company yet formed was getting ready to effect a
+lodgment on the shores of the Columbia. This was the Pacific Fur Company.
+John Jacob Astor was the founder of this enterprise. Though unfortunate in
+almost every feature of its history and its final outcome, this company
+had a magnificent conception, a royal grandeur of opportunity, and it
+possessed also the felicity, shared by no one of its predecessors, of the
+genius of a great literary star to illuminate its records. To Washington
+Irving it owes much of its fame. Yet the commercial genius of Astor could
+not prevent errors of judgment by the management any more than the
+literary genius of Irving was able to conceal their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> errors, or the genius
+of American liberty able to order events so as to prevent victory for a
+time by the &#8220;Britishers.&#8221; As we view the history in the large it may be
+that we shall conclude that the British triumph at first was the best
+introduction to American triumph in the end.</p>
+
+<p>John Jacob Astor may, perhaps, be justly regarded as the first of the
+great promoters or financial magnates who have made the United States the
+world&#8217;s El Dorado. Coming from Germany to this land of opportunity after
+the close of the Revolutionary War, he soon manifested that keen intuition
+in money matters, as well as intense devotion to accumulation, which has
+led to the colossal fortunes of his own descendants and of the other
+multimillionaires of this age. Having made quite a fortune by transporting
+furs to London, Mr. Astor turned to larger fields. With his broad and keen
+geographical and commercial insight, he could readily grasp the same fact
+which the North-westers of Montreal were also considering, that the
+Columbia River might well become the key to an international fur-trade, as
+well as a strategic point for American expansion westward. He made
+overtures to the North-westers for a partnership, but they declined. Then
+he determined to be the chief manager, and to associate individual
+Americans and Canadians with himself. With the promptitude of the skilful
+general, he proceeded to form his company and make his plan of campaign in
+time to anticipate the apparent designs of the active Canadians. They saw,
+as well as Astor did, the magnitude of the stake and at once made ready to
+play their part. For, as already noted, David Thompson crossed the Rockies
+by the Athabasca<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> Pass in 1810, spent the winter at Lake Windermere on the
+Columbia River, and in the summer of 1811 reached Astoria, only to find
+the Astor Company already established there. It should be especially noted
+that the Thompson party was the first to descend the River from near its
+source to the ocean, although of course Lewis and Clark had anticipated
+them on the portion below the junction of the Snake with the main River.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Astor&#8217;s plans provided for an expedition by sea and one by land. The
+first was to convey stores and equipment for founding and defending the
+proposed capital of the empire of the fur-traders. Of the expedition by
+land under Hunt we have already given a full account in the preceding
+chapter, since its events rather allied it to the era of exploration than
+that of the traders. The organisation of Mr. Astor&#8217;s company provided that
+there should be a capital stock of a hundred shares, of which he should
+hold half and his associates half. Mr. Astor was to furnish the money,
+though not to exceed four hundred thousand dollars, and was to bear all
+losses for five years. The term of the association was fixed at twenty
+years, though with the privilege of dissolving it in five years if it
+proved unprofitable. The general plan and the details of the expedition
+had been decided upon by the master mind of the founder with statesmanlike
+ability. It comes, therefore, as a surprise to the reader that Mr. Astor
+should have made a capital mistake at the very beginning of his
+undertaking. This mistake was in the selection of his associates and the
+captains of some of his ships. Of the partners, five were Americans and
+five were Canadians. Two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> only of the Americans remained with the company
+long enough to have any determining influence on its policies. Take the
+fact that the majority of the active partners and almost all the clerks,
+trappers, and other employees of the company were Canadians, and put it
+beside the other fact that war was imminent with Great Britain and did
+actually break out within two years, and the dangerous nature of the
+situation can be seen. Of the ship-captains, the first one, Captain
+Jonathan Thorn of the <i>Tonquin</i>, was a man of such overbearing and
+obstinate nature that disaster seemed to be fairly invited by placing him
+in such vitally responsible a position. The captain of the second ship,
+the <i>Beaver</i>, was Cornelius Sowles, and he seems to have been as timid and
+irresolute as Captain Thorn was bold and implacable. Both lacked judgment.
+It was probably natural that Mr. Astor, having had his main prior
+experience as a fur-dealer in connection with the Canadians centring at
+Montreal, should have looked in that direction for associates. But
+inasmuch as war between England and the United States seemed a practical
+certainty, it was a great error, in founding a vast enterprise in remote
+regions whose ownership was not yet definitely recognised, to share with
+citizens of Great Britain the determination of the important issues of the
+enterprise. It would have saved Mr. Astor great loss and chagrin if he had
+observed the maxim: &#8220;Put none but Americans on guard.&#8221; As to the captains
+of the two vessels, that was an error that any one might have made. Yet
+for a man of Astor&#8217;s exceptional ability and shrewdness to err so
+conspicuously in judging the character of the men appointed to such
+important places seems indeed strange.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img06.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Astoria in 1845.<br />From an Old Print.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img07.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Astoria. Looking up and across the Columbia River.<br />Photo. by Woodfield.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>To these facts in regard to the personnel of the partners, the captains,
+and the force, must be added two others; <i>i. e.</i>, war and shipwreck. The
+combination of all these conditions made the history of the Astoria
+enterprise what it was. Yet, with all of its adversity, this was one of
+the best conceived, and, in most of its details, the best equipped and
+executed of all the great enterprises which have appeared in the
+commercial history of our country. As an element in the development of the
+land of the Oregon, it must be accorded the first place after the period
+of discovery.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Tonquin</i> left New York on September 6, 1810. She carried a fine
+equipment of all things needed for founding the proposed emporium. She was
+manned by a crew of twenty-one and conveyed members of the fur-trading
+force to the number of thirty-three. Stopping at the Sandwich Islands, an
+added force of twenty-four natives was taken aboard. At various times on
+the journey the rigid ideas of naval discipline and the imperious temper
+of Captain Thorn came near producing mutiny among the partners and clerks.
+When the <i>Tonquin</i> hove to off the mouth of the Columbia on March 22,
+1811, the eager voyagers saw little to attract. The wind was blowing in
+heavy squalls, and the sea ran high. Nevertheless the hard-hearted Captain
+issued orders to the first mate, Fox, with a boat&#8217;s crew of four men, to
+go into the foaming waves and sound the channel. The boat was
+insufficiently provided, and it seemed scarcely short of murder to
+despatch a crew under such circumstances. But the tyrannical captain would
+listen to no remonstrances, and the poor little boat went tossing over the
+billows on her forlorn hope. Such indeed it proved to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> be, for neither
+boat nor any one of the crew was ever heard of again. This was a wholly
+unnecessary sacrifice of life, for the <i>Tonquin</i> was in no danger, and
+time could just as well have been taken for more propitious weather.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, the wind and sea having abated, the <i>Tonquin</i> drew near the
+dreaded bar, but, no entrance that satisfied the captain appearing, the
+ship again stood off to spend the night in deep water. On the next day,
+the 24th, the wind fell and a serene sky seemed to invite another attempt.
+The pinnace in command of Mr. Aikin, with two white men and two Kanakas,
+was sent out to find the channel. Following the pinnace the ship moved in
+so rapidly under a freshening breeze that she passed the pinnace, the
+unfortunate men on board finding it impossible to effect an entrance and
+being borne by the refluent current into the mad surge where ocean tide
+and outflowing river met in foamy strife. So the pinnace disappeared. But
+meanwhile the crew had all their energies engaged to save the <i>Tonquin</i>.
+For the wind failed at the critical moment and the ship struck the sands
+with violence. Night came on. Had the men been classically trained (as in
+fact Franch&egrave;re was) they might have remembered Virgil, <i>Ponto nox incubat
+atra</i>. But they had no time for classical or other quotations. Hastily
+dropping the anchors they lay to in the midst of the tumult of waters, in
+that worst of situations, on an unknown coast in the dark and in storm.
+But as Franch&egrave;re expresses it, Providence came to their succour, and the
+tide flooding and the wind rising, they weighed the anchors, and in spite
+of the obscurity of the night, they gained a safe<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> harbour in a little
+cove inside of Cape Disappointment, apparently just about abreast of the
+present town of Ilwaco.</p>
+
+<p>Thus the <i>Tonquin</i> was saved, and with the light of morning it could be
+seen that she was fairly within the bar. Natives soon made their
+appearance, desirous of trading beaver-skins. But the crew were in no mood
+for commerce while any hope existed for finding the lost sailors. Taking a
+course toward the shore by what must have been nearly the present route
+from Ilwaco to Long Beach, the captain and a party with him, began a
+search and soon found Weeks, one of the crew of the pinnace. He was stark
+naked and suffering intensely from the cold. As soon as sufficiently
+revived he narrated the loss of the pinnace in the breakers, the death of
+three of the crew, and the casting of himself and one of the Kanakas upon
+the beach. The point where they were cast would seem to have been near the
+present location of the life-saving station.</p>
+
+<p>The two survivors of the ill-fated pinnace having been revived, the party
+returned to the <i>Tonquin</i>, which was now riding safely at anchor in the
+bay on the north side of the river, named Baker&#8217;s Bay by Broughton
+nineteen years before. Joy for their own escape from such imminent perils
+was mingled with melancholy at the loss of their eight companions of the
+two boats, and with the melancholy there was a sense of bitterness toward
+the captain, who was to blame, at least for the loss of the small boat.</p>
+
+<p>But now the new land was all before them where to choose, and since
+Captain Thorn was in great haste to depart and begin his trading cruise
+along the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> coast, the partners on the <i>Tonquin</i>, Messrs. McKay, McDougal,
+David Stuart, and Robert Stuart, decided somewhat hurriedly to locate at
+the point which had received from Lieutenant Broughton the name of Point
+George. Franch&egrave;re gives a pleasant picture of the beauty of the trees and
+sky, and the surprise of the party to find that, though it was only the
+12th of April when they set to work upon the great trees which covered the
+site of their chosen capital, yet spring was already far advanced. They
+did not then understand the effect of the Japan current upon the Pacific
+Coast climate.</p>
+
+<p>An incident of special interest soon after landing was the appearance on
+June 15th of two strange Indians, a man and a woman, bearing a letter
+addressed to <i>Mr. John Stuart, Fort Estekatadene, New Caledonia</i>. These
+two Indians wore long robes of dressed deerskins with leggings and
+moccasins more like the Indians of the Rocky Mountains. They could not
+understand the speech of the Astoria Indians nor of any of the mixture of
+dialects which the white men tried on them, until one of the Canadian
+clerks addressed them in the Knisteneaux language with which they seemed
+to be partially familiar. After several days of stay at the fort the two
+wandering Indians succeeded in making it clear to the traders that they
+had been sent out by a clerk named Finnan McDonald of the North-west Fur
+Company from a fort which that company had just established on the Spokane
+River. They said that they had lost their way and in consequence had
+descended the <i>Tacousah-Tessah</i> (and this Franch&egrave;re understood to be the
+Indian name for the Columbia, though the general impression<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> among the
+Indians is that Tacousah-Tessah, or Tacoutche-Tesse, signified Frazer
+River). From the revelation gradually drawn from these two Indians (and
+the surprising discovery was made that they were both women) the very
+important conclusion was drawn that the North-west Fur Company was already
+prepared to contest with the Astor Company the possession of the River.
+The peculiar feature of the situation was that the most of the Astorians,
+though American by the existing business tie, were Canadian and British by
+blood and sympathy, and hence were very likely to fraternise with the
+Montreal traders.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img08.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">One of the Lagoons of the Upper Columbia River, near Golden, B. C.<br />Photo. by C. F. Yates, Golden.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img09.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Saddle Mt., or Swallalochost, near Astoria, Famous in Indian Myth.<br />Photo. by Woodfield.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>However the Astorians decided to send an expedition into the interior to
+verify the story given by the two Indian women, but, just as they were
+ready to go, a large canoe with the British flag floating from her stern
+appeared, from which, when it had reached the landing, there leaped ashore
+an active, well-dressed man who introduced himself as David Thompson, of
+the North-west Company. This was the same man, the reader will remember,
+who had crossed the Rocky Mountains the year before, had wintered near the
+head of the River, and had then descended it, seeking a location for the
+Columbia River emporium of the Canadian company. But he was too late. It
+was quite strange by what narrow margins on several occasions the British
+failed to forestall the Yankees.</p>
+
+<p>On July 23d the delayed expedition of the Astorians set forth far to the
+interior, and as a result of their investigations, David Stuart, in charge
+of the party, began the erection of a trading house at the mouth of the
+Okanogan, five hundred and forty miles above Astoria. It was on September
+2, 1811, that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> this post was begun, and hence Fort Okanogan may be
+regarded as the first American establishment in the present State of
+Washington. It was antedated a few months by the post of the North-west
+Company at the entrance of the Little Spokane into the Spokane, near the
+present site of the City of Spokane.</p>
+
+<p>During the fall of 1811 the Indians around Astoria became very
+threatening. Direful rumours, too, in regard to the destruction of the
+<i>Tonquin</i> began to disquiet the Astorians. In the emergency the wary
+McDougall, then acting as the head of the Company, bethought himself of a
+very effective expedient. He had learned that dreadful loss of life among
+the Indians had resulted a few years before from smallpox and that the
+Indians were mortally afraid of it. Calling into his room several of the
+principal chiefs, he asked if they remembered the smallpox. Their serious
+faces were sufficient proof that they did. McDougall then held up a small
+vial and continued with awful solemnity: &#8220;Listen to me. I am the great
+smallpox chief. In this little bottle I keep the smallpox. If I uncork the
+bottle and let it out I will kill every man, woman, and child of the
+Indians. Now go in peace, but if you make war upon us I will open the
+bottle, and you will die.&#8221; The chiefs filed out in terror, and peace was
+preserved.</p>
+
+<p>McDougall still further cemented the bond of union with the natives by
+becoming united in wedlock with the daughter of Comcomly, the one-eyed
+chieftain of the Chinooks. After numerous and thorough ablutions had
+somewhat mitigated the oiliness and general fishiness of the Chinook
+princess, she was clad in the most brilliant style of the native beauty, a
+grand holiday<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> was declared at Astoria, and white men and Indians joined
+in the wedding feast and made the welkin ring with their demonstrations.
+Thus did the daughter of Comcomly become the first lady of the land, and
+thus did peace brood over the broad waters of the lower River.</p>
+
+<p>During the winter of 1811-12 the two instalments of the Hunt party made
+their appearance, after their distressful journey from St. Louis as
+already narrated in Chapter IV. In May, 1812, the company&#8217;s ship <i>Beaver</i>
+arrived from New York, loaded with stores and trading equipment, and
+bringing a considerable addition to the force of men. In the following
+month sixty men were despatched up-river, and by them a trading post was
+located at Spokane and another on the Snake River somewhere near the
+present site of Lewiston, while one section of the party went across the
+mountains and down the Missouri to convey dispatches to Mr. Astor.</p>
+
+<p>At this stage of the history of the Astoria enterprise, every aspect was
+encouraging. The trade in furs on the Spokane, the Okanogan, the Snake,
+the C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene was excellent, a successful cruise along the coast by
+the <i>Beaver</i> seemed sure, and the Indians about the mouth of the River
+were friendly and well disposed. Mr. Astor&#8217;s great undertaking seemed sure
+to be crowned with success. In the midst of all the signs of hope came
+tidings of dismay. It became known with certainty that the <i>Tonquin</i> had
+been destroyed. This appalling disaster was related directly to the
+Astoria Company by the only survivor. This was an Indian of the Chehalis
+tribe whose name is given by Irving as Lamazee, by Ross as Lamazu, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> by
+Bancroft as Lamanse. He had escaped from the Indians who had held him
+after the destruction of the <i>Tonquin</i> and had finally found his way to
+Astoria, there to tell his tale, one of the most sanguinary in the long
+roll of struggles with the Indians. The next great disaster was the
+wrecking of the <i>Lark</i>, the third of the Company&#8217;s ships from New York.
+During the same period Mr. Hunt, the partner next in rank to Mr. Astor and
+the one above all who could have acted wisely and patriotically in the
+forthcoming crisis, had gone in the <i>Beaver</i> on a trading cruise among the
+Russians of Sitka, and by a most remarkable series of detentions he had
+been kept away from Astoria for over a year.</p>
+
+<p>To cap the climax of misfortunes, the War of 1812 burst upon the knowledge
+of the fur-traders and seemed to force upon such of the partners as were
+of British nationality the question of their paramount duty. As a result
+of the crisis, McDougal and McKenzie, although against the wishes of the
+other partners present, sold out to the agent of the North-westers, who
+had repaired at once to Astoria upon knowledge of the declaration of war.
+Thus the great Astoria enterprise was abandoned, and the Stars and Stripes
+went down and the Union Jack went up. Soon after the transfer, the British
+man-of-war <i>Raccoon</i>, Captain Black, arrived at Astoria, expecting to have
+seized the place as a rich prize of war. Imagine the disgust of the
+expectant British mariners to discover that the post had already been sold
+to British subjects, that their long journey was useless, and that their
+hopes of prize money had vanished.</p>
+
+<p>With the close of the War of 1812 a series of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> negotiations between the
+ministers of the two countries took place in regard to the possession of
+the River, by which it was finally decided that Astoria should be restored
+to the United States. Accordingly, on the 6th of October, 1818, the
+British Commissioners, Captain F. Hickey, of His Majesty&#8217;s Ship <i>Blossom</i>,
+and J. Keith, representing the North-west Fur Company, signed an act of
+delivery restoring Fort George (Astoria) to the United States. Mr. J. B.
+Prevost, Commissioner for the United States, signed the act of acceptance.
+Astoria was once again American property.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img10.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Steamer <i>Beaver</i>, the First Steamer on the Pacific, 1836.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img11.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Portland, Oregon, in 1851.<br />From an Old Print.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>While the River was now nominally in possession of the United States, it
+was practically under the control of the British fur companies. The
+Pacific Fur Company ceased to operate, and the North-westers entered upon
+active work both by sea and land in exploring the vast and profitable
+domain which the misfortunes of their American rivals, supplemented in a
+most timely manner by the treachery of McDougall and McKenzie, had put
+within their power. The canny Scotchmen, McDougall, McTavish, McKenzie,
+McDonald, and the various other Macs who now guided the plans of the
+North-westers, signalled their entrance into power by despatching
+companies to the various pivotal points of the great Columbia Basin, the
+Walla Walla, Yakima, Okanogan, Spokane, and Snake rivers. Two incidents
+may be related to illustrate the character of people and the conditions of
+that wilderness period.</p>
+
+<p>A party of ninety men in ten canoes left Astoria for up-river points on
+April 4, 1814. While passing the mouth of the Yakima, about three hundred
+and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> fifty miles up the River, the men were surprised to see three canoes
+putting out from shore and to hear a child&#8217;s voice calling out, &#8220;<i>Arretez
+donc! arretez donc!</i>&#8221; Stopping to investigate, the party found in one of
+the boats the Indian wife of Pierre Dorion, with her children. Dorion,
+with five other Canadians, had gone the previous summer with a party under
+command of John Reed of the Astor Company. While trapping and hunting,
+deep in the mountains of Snake River, the party had been massacred by
+Indians. The woman and her two boys had alone escaped the massacre. It was
+the dead of winter and the snows lay deep on the Blue Mountains. But the
+wife of Dorion found shelter in a remote fastness of the mountains,
+putting up a bark hut for a shelter and subsisting on the carcasses of
+some of her horses. In the spring, the pitiful little company of mother
+and children descended to Walla Walla and found there more kindly disposed
+natives, who cared for them and turned them over to the protection of the
+whites. A more thrilling story of suffering and heroism than this of
+Madame Dorion and her children has never come up from the chronicles of
+the wild West.</p>
+
+<p>Equally illustrative of the life of the fur-traders is the account given
+by Alexander Ross of one of his many adventures in the Columbia country.
+In 1814 Ross went from Okanogan to Yakima to secure horses. With him were
+four other whites and three Indian women. The Yakima Valley was then as
+now a paradise of the Indians. There the tribes gathered by the thousands
+in the spring to dig camas, to race horses, and to gamble, as well as to
+form alliances and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> make plans for war. When the little company of traders
+reached the encampment, they discovered to their astonishment that it was
+a veritable city. Six thousand men, women, and children, with ten thousand
+horses, and uncounted dogs and many shackled bears and wolves, were strewn
+across the plain. It was a dangerous situation for the traders, for it
+became plain to them that the Indians were unfriendly. But assuming an air
+of careless bravado, Ross proceeded to display his store of trinkets for
+the purpose of starting a traffic in horses. Assuming a very hilarious
+manner the Indians would seize and drive away the animals as fast as the
+white men got them. Then the Indians began to deprive them of clothes and
+food. Finally they made ready to seize their three women as slaves. Ross
+managed to have the women escape temporarily, but then the savages were
+worse than ever. Matters reached a crisis when an obstreperous chief named
+Yaktana snatched a knife from the hands of one of the Canadians. A
+desperate struggle was just at the point of breaking out, which would
+inevitably have resulted in the death of all the white men, when a sudden
+intuition flashed through the quick mind of Ross, and rushing between the
+combatants he handed his own knife, a much more elegant one, to Yaktana,
+saying in a friendly tone, &#8220;This is a chief&#8217;s knife. Take it and give back
+the other.&#8221; There was an instant revulsion. Yaktana was so much flattered
+that he turned at once into a stanch supporter of the shrewd trader. Food
+was brought. The horses were restored. Equipment was provided. The three
+women were regained, and the company made their way without further
+trouble to Okanogan.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span>We have already mentioned the important fact that in 1821 the two great
+Canadian Companies, the North-western and the Hudson&#8217;s Bay, decided to
+unite. With the union, the great era of fur-trade in the Columbia Basin
+fairly began, to continue about twenty-five years, yielding then to the
+American immigrant. That twenty-five years of the dominance of the great
+Fur Company contained nearly all the poetry and romance as well as the
+profit and statesmanship of the business. The entire region of the River,
+as well as that of the Puget Sound country, was mapped out in a most
+systematic manner with one chief central fort, Vancouver on the Columbia.
+A more magnificent location for the purpose cannot be conceived. It is now
+the site of a flourishing city and of the United States Fort Headquarters
+for the North-west, generally conceded to be the finest fort location in
+the United States. Fort Vancouver was established in 1825 upon a superb
+bench of land gently sloping back from the River for two miles. Great
+trees fringed the site, Mt. Hood lifted its pinnacled majesty sixty miles
+to the eastward, the sinuous mazes of the Willamette Valley stretched out
+far southward, while the lordly River was in full view a dozen miles up
+and down. Every natural advantage and delight which wild nature could
+offer was here in fullness. Ships could readily ascend the hundred miles
+from the ocean to unload their merchandise and take on their cargoes of
+precious furs, the furs collected at the outlay of so much toil and
+suffering over the area of hundreds of miles. Every species of game and
+fish abounded in the waters and along the banks of the River. Deer and elk
+tossed their antlers <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>between the stately firs of the upland, and pheasant
+and grouse whirred among the branches. Geese, cranes, ducks, and swans, in
+countless numbers, darkened the lagoons amid the many islands enclosed by
+the mouths of the Willamette and the adjacent waters of the larger stream.
+Fish of many varieties, the royal Chinook salmon, king of food fish, being
+at the head in beauty and edibility, though surpassed in size by the
+gigantic sturgeon, which sometimes weighed a thousand pounds, abounded in
+the River. No epicure of the world&#8217;s capitals could command such viands as
+nature brought to the doors of the denizens of Fort Vancouver.</p>
+
+<p>The fort itself was laid out on a scale of amplitude suitable to the
+spaciousness of the site. It was enclosed with a picket wall twenty feet
+high, with massive buttresses of timber inside. This enclosure was a
+parallelogram seven hundred and fifty by five hundred feet. Inside were
+about forty buildings, the governor&#8217;s residence of generous dimensions
+being in the centre. Two chapels provided for the spiritual needs of the
+company, while schoolhouse, stores, &#8220;bachelors&#8217; halls,&#8221; and shops of
+various kinds attested the variety of the needs. Along the bank of the
+River, outside the enclosure, lay quite a village of cottages for the
+married employees, together with hospital, boathouses, granaries,
+warehouses, threshing mills, and dairy buildings.</p>
+
+<p>Taken altogether Fort Vancouver was the model fort of the western slope.
+Moreover, the fertile soil and genial, humid climate soon encouraged the
+factors of the Company to experiment with gardens and orchards, and,
+within a few years after founding, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>fifteen hundred acres of land were in
+the finest state of productivity, while three thousand head of cattle,
+twenty-five hundred sheep, three hundred brood mares, and over a hundred
+milch cows, added their bounteous contributions to the already plentiful
+resources of the fort.</p>
+
+<p>With this rich larder, with the spacious buildings, with the annual
+arrivals and departures of ships by sea and fleets of bateaux by river,
+with hunting trips and Indian policies, with the intercoast traffic with
+the Russians on the north and the Spaniards on the south,&mdash;there was as
+much to engage and delight the minds of these people as if they had lived
+in the heart of civilisation.</p>
+
+<p>Any account of Fort Vancouver would be incomplete without some reference
+to Dr. John McLoughlin, chief factor of the Company in the Columbia
+district from 1824 to the time of his retirement from the Company in 1846
+and settlement at Oregon City, Oregon, as an American citizen. Rarely has
+any one in the stormy history of the Columbia Basin received such
+unvarying and unqualified praise as has this truly great man. Physically,
+mentally, and morally, Dr. McLoughlin was altogether exceptional among the
+mixed population that gathered about the emporium of the traders. Six feet
+four inches in height, his noble and expressive face crowned with a great
+cascade of snowy hair, firm yet kindly, prompt and businesslike yet
+sympathetic and helpful, &#8220;Old Whitehead&#8221; or &#8220;White Eagle,&#8221; as the Indians
+called him, was a true-born king of men.</p>
+
+<p>We have said that Fort Vancouver was the great central fort. The others
+commanding the pivotal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> points upon the River and its tributaries were
+Fort Hall and Fort Bois&eacute; on the Snake, Spokane House on the Spokane near
+the present metropolis of the Inland Empire, Fort Colville on the river of
+the same name near its junction with the Columbia, Fort Okanogan at the
+junction of the stream of that name with the great River, Fort Owen in the
+C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene region, Fort Simcoe in the Yakima country, Fort Walla
+Walla, first known as Fort Nez Perc&eacute;, on the Columbia at the mouth of the
+Walla Walla, and Fort George on the former site of Astoria. These forts
+were all laid out in the same general fashion as Fort Vancouver, though no
+one was so large, elaborate, or comfortable. Besides the forts there were
+a number of small trading posts. The chief furs procured in the interior
+were beaver, and those on the coast were sea-otter. Many others, as the
+mink, sharp-toothed otter, fox, lynx, raccoon, were found in abundance.</p>
+
+<p>The profits of the business were immense. Alexander Ross relates that he
+secured one morning before breakfast one hundred and ten beaver skins for
+a single yard of white cloth. Ross spent one hundred and eighty-eight days
+alone in the Yakima country. During that time he collected one thousand
+five hundred and fifty beavers, besides other peltries, worth in the
+Canton market two thousand two hundred and fifty pounds, which cost him in
+his objects of trade only thirty-five pounds. That was while Ross was
+connected with the Astor Company.</p>
+
+<p>In completing this necessarily hurried chapter on the fascinating era of
+the fur-traders, we cannot omit a brief reference to the movements of the
+regular brigades of boats up and down the River, for these<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> comprised a
+great part of both the business and the romance of the age. The course of
+these brigades was from the southern shores of Hudson Bay, through
+Manitoba, to the crest of the Rockies at the head of the Columbia. Water
+was utilised to the greatest possible extent, while at the portages and
+across the mountains horse-power and man-power were employed. Once afloat
+upon the Columbia, the brigades braved most of the rapids, paying
+occasional toll of men and goods to the envious deities of the waters, yet
+with marvellous skill and general fortune making their way down the
+thousand or more miles from Boat Encampment to Fort Vancouver. The descent
+was easy compared with the ascent. The first journey of the east-bound
+brigade of the North-westers from Astoria to Montreal was in 1814, and it
+required the time from April 4th to May 11th to reach the mouth of Canoe
+River, the point at which they entered upon the mountain climb to the head
+of the Athabasca.</p>
+
+<p>The boatmen were French-Canadians, a hardy, mercurial, light-hearted race,
+half French, with the natural grace and politeness of their race, and
+having the pleasant patois which has made them the theme of much popular
+present-day literature. They were half Indian, either in tastes and
+manners or in blood, with the atmosphere of forests and streams clinging
+to every word and gesture. They were perhaps the best boatmen in the
+world. Upon those matchless lakes into which the Columbia and its
+tributaries expand at intervals the fur-laden boats would glide at ease,
+while the wild songs of the <i>coureurs des bois</i> would echo from shore to
+shore in lazy sibilations, apparently betokening no thought of serious or
+earnest business.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> But once the rapids were reached, the gay and
+rollicking knight of the paddle became all attention. With keen eyes fixed
+on every swirl or rock, he guided the light craft with a ready skill which
+would be inconceivable to one less daring and experienced. The brigades
+would run almost all the rapids from Death Rapids to the sea, making
+portages at Kettle Falls, Tumwater or Celilo Falls, and the Cascades,
+though at some stages of the water they could run down even them. They
+always had to carry around those points in ascending the River. In spite
+of all the skill of the <i>voyageurs</i> the Columbia and the Snake, the Pend
+Oreille and the Kootenai have exacted a heavy toll of life from those who
+have laid their compelling hands upon the white manes of chute and
+cataract. Many, even of the <i>voyageurs</i>, are the human skeletons that have
+whitened the volcanic beds of the great streams.</p>
+
+<p>The boats used by the fur brigades were either log canoes obtained of the
+Indians or bateaux. The former were hollowed from the magnificent cedars
+which grew on the banks of the River, sometimes fifty or sixty feet long,
+with prow carved in fantastic, even beautiful fashion. They would hold
+from six to twenty persons with from half a ton to two or three tons of
+load, yet were so light that two men could carry one of the medium size
+while four could handle one of any size around a portage. But the
+<i>voyageurs</i> never took quite so much to the canoes as did the Indians,
+whose skill in handling them in high waves is described by Ross and
+Franch&egrave;re as something astonishing. And even the Indians of the present
+show much the same ability, though the splendid cedar<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> canoes are no
+longer made, and only here and there can one of the picturesque survivors
+be seen.</p>
+
+<p>The bateaux were boats of peculiar shape, being built very high and broad
+so that in an unloaded condition they seemed to rest on the water almost
+like a paper shell. Both ends were high and pointed as prows. They were
+propelled with oars and steered with paddles. One of the usual size was
+about thirty feet long and five feet wide. Being of light-draft,
+double-enders, capable of holding large loads and yet easily conveyed
+around portages, more steady and roomy than canoes, these bateaux were the
+typical Columbia River medium of commerce during the era of the
+fur-traders. They, too, have mainly vanished from the scenes of their
+former glory. Canoes, bateaux, cries and yells of Indians, songs of
+<i>voyageurs</i>, have gone into the engulfing limbo of the bygone, along with
+the keen-eyed Scotch factor and the sharp-featured Yankee skipper. Yet the
+swans and geese and ducks still darken the more placid expanses of the
+River and the salmon still start the widening circles in almost
+undiminished numbers, while the glaciated heights of Hood and Adams and
+St. Helens (we would rather say Wiyeast, Klickitat, and Loowit) still
+stand guard over the unchanging waters.</p>
+
+<p>This part of our topic has mainly centred upon the British possession of
+the River. A full history of the fur era on the River would demand a
+chapter on the later attempts of three remarkable men to reestablish
+American interests in the disputed territory. These men were Jedediah
+Smith, Capt. E. L. Bonneville, and Nathaniel J. Wyeth. But though these
+men belong properly to this era, their efforts in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> fur-trade were
+relatively unimportant in comparison with the influence of their lives in
+the direction of permanent American occupation. It seemed the appointment
+of destiny that the American should play second fiddle to his British
+rival in the fur-trade. But as tenfold, a thousandfold compensation, the
+American farmers, home-builders, and tradesmen were to acquire final
+possession of one of the goodliest lands on which the Stars and Stripes
+has ever floated. The bateaux and canoes must needs give way to the
+steamboat and the launch, the <i>coureur des bois</i> to the lumberman and the
+miner and farmer, and the picturesque emporium of the British fur-trader
+on the River to the modern American city. We shall, therefore, more
+fittingly chronicle the later American fur-traders as a part of the march
+of their countrymen to permanent ownership of Oregon.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h3>
+<p class="chapter">The Coming of the Missionaries to the Tribes of the River</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Journey of the Nez Perc&eacute; Chiefs to Find the White Man&#8217;s Book of
+Life&mdash;Interest Excited among Christian People by this Event&mdash;Methodist
+Church Leads in Preparing for a Missionary Party&mdash;Jason Lee and his
+Mission near Chemeketa&mdash;The Reinforcement by the
+<i>Lausanne</i>&mdash;Importance of Jason Lee as a Force in Oregon History&mdash;The
+Missions of the American Board at Walla Walla, Lapwai, and
+Tshimakain&mdash;Preliminary Journey of Whitman and Parker in 1835&mdash;The
+Wedding Journey from Missouri to the Columbia in 1836&mdash;Dr. Whitman and
+his Associates and their Traits of Character&mdash;On the Summit of South
+Pass&mdash;Whitman&#8217;s Waggon&mdash;Arrival at Vancouver and Conference with
+McLoughlin&mdash;Locations of the Missionaries&mdash;Reinforcement in
+1838&mdash;Friendship of the Nez Perc&eacute;s&mdash;First Printing Press&mdash;Whitman&#8217;s
+Ride in 1842-43&mdash;The Catholic Missions&mdash;Fathers Blanchet, Demers, and
+De Smet&mdash;Influence of the Missions.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">In</span> 1832 a strange thing happened. Four Indians appeared in St. Louis
+seeking the &#8220;White Man&#8217;s Book of Life.&#8221; At that time General William Clark
+was superintendent of Indian affairs, located at St. Louis. He was
+familiar with the Western Indians and had greatly sympathised with them.</p>
+
+<p>Learning of these strange Indians and their stranger quest, General Clark
+sought them, and entered into communication with them. It is usually
+stated that these Indians were Flatheads from the Pend Oreille region, but
+Miss Kate Macbeth, a missionary for many years to the Nez Perc&eacute;s, became<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>
+convinced that three were Nez Perc&eacute;s and the fourth a Flathead. How they
+had learned that the white man had a &#8220;Book of Life&#8221; is not known. Captain
+Bonneville&#8217;s journal states that Pierre Pambrun had given many of the
+Oregon Indians instruction in the rudiments of the Catholic worship. Some
+have conjectured that Jedediah Smith, a noted American trapper, and, most
+remarkable of all, a devout Christian, may have imparted religious
+thoughts to them. Miss Macbeth believed that the motive of the mission was
+to find Lewis and Clark, the explorers, whose visit in 1804-05 had
+produced a profound impression on the Nez Perc&eacute;s. The first published
+account of these four Indians appeared in the <i>New York Christian
+Advocate</i> for March 1, 1833. This was in the form of a letter from G. P.
+Disoway, in which he enclosed a letter to himself from his agent, William
+Walker, an interpreter for the Wyandotte Indians. Walker was at St. Louis
+at the time, and met these four Indians in General Clark&#8217;s office. He was
+much impressed with their appearance, and learned that General Clark had
+given them as full an account as possible of the nature and history of
+man, of the advent of the Saviour, and of His work for men. Walker states
+that two of the four men died in St. Louis, and as to whether the others
+reached their native land he did not know.</p>
+
+<p>In the <i>Illinois Patriot</i> of October, 1833, the same topic was taken up,
+together with the statement that Walker&#8217;s report had excited so much
+interest that a committee of the Illinois Synod had been appointed to
+investigate and report on what seemed the duty of the churches in the
+premises. The committee <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>accordingly went to St. Louis and confirmed the
+account by conference with General Clark. They also made it an object to
+learn all available facts in regard to the general conditions among the
+Indians west of the Rocky Mountains.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most valuable records in respect to these Indians is from
+George Catlin, the noted painter and student of Indian life. Catlin was on
+the steamer going up the Missouri toward Fort Benton with these two
+remaining Indians on their homeward journey. His account of them in the
+<i>Smithsonian Report</i> for 1885 is thus:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>These two men, when I painted them, were in beautiful Sioux dresses
+which had been presented to them in a talk with the Sioux, who treated
+them very kindly, while passing through the Sioux country. These two
+men were part of a delegation that came across the mountains to St.
+Louis, a few years since, to inquire for the truth of representation
+which they said some white man had made among them, that our religion
+was better than theirs, and that they would all be lost if they did
+not embrace it. Two old and venerable men of this party died in St.
+Louis, and I travelled two thousand miles, companion with these two
+fellows, toward their own country, and became much pleased with their
+manners and dispositions. When I first heard the objects of their
+extraordinary mission across the mountains, I could scarcely believe
+it; but, on conversing with General Clark on a future occasion, I was
+fully convinced of the fact.</p></div>
+
+<p>It appears from still another account of the matter that the two surviving
+Indians were disappointed in that they did not actually get possession of
+the &#8220;Book.&#8221; A speech of one of the chiefs as he left General Clark has
+been published in a number of books, and is well worthy of preservation.
+It should be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> stated, however, that this speech has no authentic source,
+nor does it appear anywhere how it was obtained. It is commonly stated
+that it was &#8220;taken down&#8221; at the time by one of the clerks in General
+Clark&#8217;s office. The historian Mowry is authority for the statement that
+one of the Indians gave the substance of the speech to the missionary,
+Spalding, at a later time. It has, also, a somewhat conventionalised
+sound. Yet with whatever discredit may be cast upon it, it possesses so
+many elements of interest that it may well be given here. This is the
+reported speech.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>I come to you over the trail of many moons from the setting sun. You
+were the friend of my fathers, who have all gone the long way. I came
+with an eye partly open for my people, who sit in darkness. I go back
+with both eyes closed. How can I go back blind, to my blind people? I
+made my way to you with strong arms through many enemies and strange
+lands that I might carry back much to them. I go back with both arms
+broken and empty. Two fathers came with us. They were the braves of
+many winters and wars. We leave them asleep here by your great water
+and wigwams. They were tired in many moons and their moccasins wore
+out.</p>
+
+<p>My people sent me to get the White Man&#8217;s Book of Heaven. You took me
+to where you allow your women to dance, as we do not ours, and the
+book was not there. You took me to where they worship the great Spirit
+with candles, and the book was not there. You showed me images of the
+good spirits and the pictures of the good land beyond, but the book
+was not among them to tell us the way. I am going back the long and
+sad trail to my people in the dark land. You make my feet heavy with
+gifts and my moccasins will grow old in carrying them, yet the book is
+not among them. When I tell my poor blind people after one more snow,
+in the big council, that I did not bring the book, no word will be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>
+spoken by our old men or by our young braves. One by one they will
+rise up and go out in silence. My people will die in darkness, and
+they will go on a long path to other hunting grounds. No white man
+will go with them, and no White Man&#8217;s Book to make the way plain. I
+have no more words.</p></div>
+
+<p>Taken altogether, it may be said that this event, as preserved in these
+various ways, constitutes one of the most pleasing and significant, though
+pathetic, incidents in Indian history. It was, moreover, pregnant with
+results. It might almost be said that it was the key to American
+possession of Oregon. For upon the acquisition of the story by the
+Christian people of the United States, there rose an immediate demand that
+something be done to carry the Gospel to the Indians of the Oregon
+country. This story was interpreted as a Macedonian cry. The period was
+one of strong religious feeling, as well as missionary zeal. The
+warm-hearted followers of the Cross felt at once that here was a
+providential opening to honour that Cross and to advance its kingdom upon
+the western border of civilisation.</p>
+
+<p>The Methodist Church was first to take up the work of sending forth
+missionaries to the Oregon Indians. To Wilbur Fiske of Wesleyan University
+seems due the credit of the first move. He enlisted the interest of Jason
+Lee, a former student at Wesleyan University, but then engaged in
+missionary work in the province of Quebec. Lee was a tall, athletic young
+man, full of zeal and consecration, not polished or graceful in manner,
+but powerful in spirit. He grasped at once the great possibilities in the
+proposition of Dr. Fiske, and, going to Boston, became appointed by the
+New England Conference as <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span>superintendent of a mission to Oregon. Daniel
+Lee, Cyrus Shepard, and P. L. Edwards were named his associates.</p>
+
+<p>In 1834, this mission band learned that Nathaniel Wyeth, famous as a
+fur-trader, was expecting to cross the continent, sending his goods by the
+brig <i>May Dacre</i> to the Columbia River. Such an opportunity was too
+favourable to be lost, and the Methodist Board at once opened negotiations
+with Captain Wyeth, with the result that this first missionary company to
+Oregon went with him and arrived safely at Vancouver on the Columbia, the
+headquarters of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company. The <i>May Dacre</i> reached her
+destination soon after, and thus Mr. Lee and his comrades found themselves
+at the threshold of their labours. The first intention had been to locate
+among the Nez Perc&eacute;s and Flatheads, the ones from whom the Macedonian cry
+had gone up. But Dr. McLoughlin, the chief factor at Vancouver, who had
+received them with the utmost interest and cordiality, persuaded them that
+the Willamette Valley would be a more promising field. Its advantages were
+obvious. It was directly on water navigation to the sea, and within easy
+distance of it. It was so near the chief entrep&ocirc;t of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay
+Company as to be comparatively safe and accessible to all mails. The
+valley was of extraordinary scenic charm and salubrious climate. The
+natives, moreover, seemed more tractable and peaceful than those of the
+upper valley. Accordingly the Methodist brethren ascended the Willamette
+to a point near a group of farms which had been located by French
+employees of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company on what is known now as French<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>
+Prairie. One of these Frenchmen was Joseph Gervais, and from him the
+subsequent town of Gervais was named. The mission was located on the
+Willamette near Chemawa, the present site of the United States Indian
+School. It was ten miles north of Chemeketa, which was the great Indian
+Council Ground, or Peace Ground, from which fact the missionary applied to
+it the name of Salem,&mdash;a change of name more commendable for piety than
+for taste.</p>
+
+<p>Jason Lee set to work at once with zeal, patience, and intelligence, to
+inaugurate the work to which he had consecrated his life. At times his
+efforts seemed to be well rewarded. Then pestilence would attack the
+Indians, followed by suspicion and excitement, as a result of which all
+the gains would be lost. The work among the whites and their half-breed
+families was more encouraging than that with the Indians. At the best,
+Indians have been inconstant and unreliable in respect to religious
+instruction.</p>
+
+<p>In 1837 a strong reinforcement arrived, among whom were Dr. Elijah White,
+destined to become a man of note as Superintendent of Indian Affairs.</p>
+
+<p>In 1838, Rev. Daniel Lee and Rev. H. K. W. Perkins established a new
+station at Wascopum, now the location of The Dalles. In the same year
+Jason Lee returned East to secure an addition to the mission. His efforts
+were crowned with success. Five missionaries, one physician, six
+mechanics, four farmers, one steward, and four female teachers, with a
+number unclassified,&mdash;in all thirty-six adults and seventeen
+children,&mdash;reached the Columbia River on the good ship <i>Lausanne</i>, under
+charge of Captain Spalding, on May 21, 1840. This was the most notable
+company that had yet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> reached our Great River. Among them were men and
+women who contributed in a great degree to the subsequent growth of
+Oregon. Of the number were Revs. Gustavus Hines, Alvin Waller, J. P.
+Richmond, and J. H. Frost; Dr. Ira L. Babcock, George Abernethy,
+afterwards governor of the territory, J. L. Parrish, and L. H. Judson. All
+the men were accompanied by their wives, and most of them had children.
+They were, in short, the advance guard of the American home-builders in
+Oregon, and as such they deserve a special place on the roll of honour.</p>
+
+<p>With this added force, it was possible to enlarge the work, in both
+secular and religious lines, both among the whites and the Indians. A
+mission was started at Clatsop on the south side of the mouth of the
+Columbia under Mr. Parrish, one at the falls of the Willamette, and
+another on Tualatin Plains, under Mr. Hines, while still another was
+located by Mr. Richmond at Nisqually on Puget Sound.</p>
+
+<p>As time passed on, it became more and more evident that this work was to
+become less for Indians and more for the incoming whites. The whole aspect
+of it changed. The Methodist Board in New England decided that they were
+not justified in maintaining the missions, and these were discontinued
+during the decade of the forties.</p>
+
+<p>Out of the mission at Chemeketa grew Willamette University, one of the
+most prominent educational institutions of Oregon.</p>
+
+<p>Jason Lee returned to the East and died in Canada in 1845. His life,
+though short, was heroic and influential. He looms large on the background
+of the history of the Columbia. In brief retrospect,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> it may be said of
+him that he combined religious zeal with shrewd common sense and capacity
+to see and adapt himself to the business and political conditions of his
+time and place. This capacity is illustrated by his shrewd management of a
+bold and enterprising character named Ewing Young. This man was about
+starting a distillery in the Willamette Valley. Knowing the ruinous
+effects of intoxicants on Indians, the missionaries strongly opposed the
+enterprise. But knowing also that Young was a man of force and capacity
+and much more valuable as a friend than as an enemy, Mr. Lee accomplished
+the abandonment of the distillery by indirection, and at the same time
+gained one of the most important steps in the development of the country.
+For he induced Young to undertake the great work of driving into the
+Willamette Valley a large herd of cattle from California. To the settlers
+beginning to locate on the fat pasture land along the Willamette and its
+tributaries, this was a stage in history of priceless moment. Up to that
+time the only cattle in the country belonged to the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company
+and it was not their policy to encourage American settlers.</p>
+
+<p>Another fact in connection with Jason Lee constitutes a landmark in the
+history of American acquisition of Oregon. This was a memorial prepared by
+him, with the assistance of P. L. Edwards and David Leslie, and signed by
+practically all the adult men then accessible in the Willamette Valley,
+thirty-six in number, addressed to the United States Congress and praying
+that the Government would consider the importance of the Columbia River
+country and the question of acquisition. This <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>memorial was dated March
+16, 1838, and was taken by Mr. Lee to the East and given to Senator Linn
+of Missouri, in January, 1839. Senator Linn was so aroused over the
+boundless possibilities offered to westward expansion that he introduced a
+bill in the Senate calling for the establishment of Oregon Territory and
+the occupation of it by the military forces of the United States. Though
+this bill did not become a law, it constituted a rallying cry for the
+friends of American possession, which had results of utmost importance.</p>
+
+<p>In short, to Jason Lee, more than to any other one, unless we except Dr.
+Marcus Whitman, of whom we shall speak later, must be attributed the
+inauguration of that remarkable chain of causes and effects, a long line
+of sequences, by which Oregon and our Pacific Coast in general became
+American possessions, and the international destiny of our nation was
+secured.</p>
+
+<p>From the Methodist missions of Lower Columbia we turn to the Presbyterian
+and Congregational missions of the upper River and its tributaries. The
+American Board of Foreign Missions was at that time under the joint
+control of three religious bodies, Presbyterian, Congregational, and Dutch
+Reformed. At the instance of the last named body, the Board in 1835
+commissioned Rev. Samuel Parker of Ithaca, N. Y., and Marcus Whitman,
+M.D., of Rushville, N. Y., to make a reconnaissance of the country of the
+Columbia, with the view of a mission. Under the protection of the American
+Fur Company, the two spiritual prospectors journeyed as far as Green
+River. There deciding that what they learned of the land beyond the Rocky
+Mountains warranted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> the carrying out of the missionary project, they
+determined to part company, Dr. Whitman returning to the &#8220;States&#8221; for
+reinforcements, and Dr. Parker going onward through Oregon to the mouth of
+the Columbia, and proceeding thence by ship to Honolulu, whence he
+returned by water to his home. Dr. Parker was an elderly man, somewhat
+pedantic and notional in his ways, but withal full of energy and zeal in
+the cause. He was not so popular with trappers and frontiersmen as his
+companion. For Whitman was a young, athletic man, capable of any degree of
+fatigue, very ready in proffering his professional or other services to
+those in need. There was a bonhommie and general disregard of the
+conventionalities in Whitman that caused the rough spirits of the border
+to &#8220;take to&#8221; him at once, while they rather looked askance at the more
+straight-laced ecclesiastic. But Parker was a man worthy of all respect
+for his qualities both of mind and purpose. He was a keen observer, and
+has left us, as his contribution to history, his <i>Travels beyond the Rocky
+Mountains</i>, one of the most readable and valuable books of travel in our
+western literature. His journey was, in fact, the first one across the
+continent, after that of Lewis and Clark, which produced a book of high
+standard.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Whitman made his way at once to his home in New York, accompanied by
+two Nez Perc&eacute; Indians. Arriving late on Saturday night he stopped with his
+brother, and no one else of the village knew of his arrival, until at the
+hour of service the next morning, he appeared in the aisle followed by his
+two Indians. His appearance was so like that of an apparition that his
+usually staid and proper mother lost<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> her head entirely, and leaped to her
+feet, shouting &#8220;Why, there is Marcus!&#8221; The equilibrium of the meeting was
+for the time almost destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>Within a few months, Dr. Whitman was married to Narcissa Prentiss. He
+persuaded Rev. H. H. Spalding and wife, who had hitherto planned to go as
+missionaries to the Osage Indians, to join them for Oregon. W. H. Gray was
+secured to go with the party as secular manager.</p>
+
+<p>And now began the famous &#8220;Wedding Journey&#8221; from New York to the banks of
+the Columbia. It included within itself the romance, the pathos, the
+devotion, the heroism, and at the last, the tragedy of missions.</p>
+
+<p><i>The History of Oregon</i>, by W. H. Gray, is the chief original authority
+for this journey, though the women of the party kept journals which are of
+great value. It would seem that all the members of the party were of
+marked personality. Dr. Whitman was a tall, spare man, with deep blue
+eyes, wide mouth, iron-grey hair, of inflexible resolution, and very set
+when his mind was once made up, though flexible and even variable till
+that point had been reached. He was of enormous physical strength and
+endurance, with a constitution, as one who knew him later told the writer,
+&#8220;like a saw-mill.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Whitman was a woman of liberal education for those times, large,
+fair-haired, blue-eyed, dignified, and somewhat reserved (rather
+&#8220;starchy,&#8221; the mountain men thought her), very ladylike, refined, and
+attractive. One of the pathetic and interesting things about her is
+related by Mrs. Martha J. Lamb in the <i>Magazine of American History</i>, in
+1884. This <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>relates the fact that the church of which Miss Prentiss (Mrs.
+Whitman) was a member in Plattsburg, N. Y., held a farewell service for
+her, and in the course of it the minister gave out the hymn:</p>
+
+<p class="poem">Yes, my native land, I love thee,<br />
+All thy scenes, I love them well;<br />
+Friends, connections, happy country,<br />
+Can I bid you all farewell.</p>
+
+<p>The entire congregation joined heartily in singing, but before the hymn
+was ended voice after voice was choked with sobs, and in the last words
+the clear, sweet soprano voice of Miss Prentiss was heard alone,
+unwavering, like a peal of triumph.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Spalding was a very different man from Dr. Whitman and has not been so
+well treated by historians. He is said to have been more nervous and
+crotchety, though of remarkable industry and intense likes and dislikes,
+which he never scrupled to express in vigorous fashion. The fact remains,
+however, that his mission was altogether the most successful of all those
+founded in Oregon.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Spalding was tall, dark, rather coarse featured, and of fragile
+health. It is truly wonderful that with such a handicap she should have
+been able to accomplish the arduous journey to Oregon. She was less
+fastidious and reserved than Mrs. Whitman and adopted the policy of taking
+the habits and manners of the Indians in greater degree, whereas her more
+dignified sister believed in the policy of trying to raise the Indians to
+her own level. The Indians therefore understood Mrs. Spalding better. The
+Indians always desired the privilege of entering Mrs.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> Whitman&#8217;s private
+room unannounced, and, if possible, of seeing her at her bath or toilette.
+Her natural objection to such intrusion was a chronic grievance which
+resulted in the suspicion by the Indians that she was conspiring against
+them.</p>
+
+<p>W. H. Gray, the secular agent, was a young, fine-looking, daring, and
+athletic man, very skilful in making and handling boats, teams, waggons,
+and anything else of a practical nature. He was so positive and even
+violent in his views as to alienate many with whom he came in contact. Yet
+he was one of the manliest men that ever came to Oregon, and was
+intimately connected with nearly every important event in the history of
+the Columbia River, navigation included. His four sons, all born in
+Oregon, became steamboat captains and pilots, and without question, no one
+family has been so intimately associated with the River as has the Gray
+family. If any one group of people could be said to have filed a claim on
+the River, it is the family of W. H. Gray. Gray&#8217;s history is of high
+value, yet so intense was his hatred of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company and of
+the British in general, as well as of Roman Catholics, that his book has
+been subjected to unsparing criticism by later writers.</p>
+
+<p>The little missionary band of five, accompanied by the two Nez Perc&eacute;
+Indians who had gone East with Whitman the year before, joined the
+westbound caravan of the American Fur Company, and journeyed with them the
+greater part of the way. One of the most thrilling and suggestive moments
+in their journey was when they stood on the summit of the Rockies at South
+Pass. There they looked down the westward<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> maze of mountains and valleys
+drained by the Snake River and its tributaries as these swept west to join
+the Columbia and thence proceed to the Pacific. With that vision before
+them, they spread the Stars and Stripes to the breeze and kneeling upon
+the turf, they took possession of the great unknown to the westward in the
+name of God and the American Union. Nobly was the claim maintained, though
+with it came the crown of martyrdom.</p>
+
+<p>Whitman desired above all other things to demonstrate the feasibility of a
+waggon road to the Pacific. He therefore insisted on taking his
+waggon,&mdash;&#8220;<i>Chick-chick-shaile-kikash</i>,&#8221; the Indians called it, in
+attempted onomatop&oelig;ia. His demonstration was successful, though the
+trouble was infinite. He was compelled to leave the waggon at the Hudson&#8217;s
+Bay Fort on the Bois&eacute;, near the present site of Bois&eacute; City, with the
+intention of getting it the next year. The Hudson&#8217;s Bay people used every
+effort to discourage Whitman in his waggon enterprise, though according to
+Gray, they made much use of the vehicle in their fort.</p>
+
+<p>On September 2, 1836, the mission party reached the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company&#8217;s
+fort at the mouth of the Walla Walla, a little more than four months and
+two thousand two hundred miles from the banks of the Missouri to those of
+the Columbia.</p>
+
+<p>But the journey was not complete, for their definite location must yet be
+selected. They proceeded now in bateaux down the Great River to Vancouver,
+the headquarters of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company&#8217;s empire. There Dr.
+McLoughlin, the chief factor, met them with his own peculiar cordiality,
+and yet with the dignity<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> befitting the head of so great an establishment.
+He was a noble man, and though business considerations and the orders of
+the directors of the company would have led him to &#8220;freeze out&#8221; the
+Americans, yet humanity and his own genial nature forbade him to withhold
+the cordial hand from the mission band. The fort and two ships in the
+river were arrayed in gala attire in honour of the event. Dr. McLoughlin
+did the honours of his spacious hall to Mrs. Whitman and Mrs. Spalding in
+a style that would have graced a baronial mansion.</p>
+
+<p>By Dr. McLoughlin&#8217;s advice, since the Methodist mission had been located
+in the Willamette Valley, Whitman decided to establish himself among the
+Cayuses in the beautiful and fertile valley of the Walla Walla, at
+Waiilatpu, the &#8220;Place of the Rye-grass.&#8221; Spalding accepted the urgent
+appeal of the Nez Perc&eacute;s to go a hundred and twenty-five miles eastward to
+Lapwai on the Clearwater, near the modern site of Lewiston. Both stations
+were fair to look upon, with every natural advantage. It proved, however,
+that the Cayuses were fierce and intractable, while the Nez Perc&eacute;s, though
+warlike and manly, were also docile, ambitious to learn, and predisposed
+to friendly relations with the Americans.</p>
+
+<p>In 1838, the American Board of Foreign Missions sent a reinforcement to
+the field, consisting of Revs. Elkanah Walker, Cushing Eells, A. B. Smith,
+and their wives. Mr. Gray, who had returned the previous year in order to
+organise this reinforcement, had found a wife, and with her was now
+accompanying this second missionary band to Oregon.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Walker and Eells located at Tshimakain,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> on what is now called
+Walker&#8217;s Prairie, near Spokane. Mr. Smith went to Kamiah up the
+Clearwater, about sixty miles from Mr. Spalding&#8217;s station at Lapwai.</p>
+
+<p>Time fails to speak of the many interesting events marking each of the
+missions. They were all located in singularly attractive spots, and every
+one of the missionaries made great progress in cultivating the ground,
+building mills, houses, and fences, and interesting the Indians in the
+arts of peace. It is true that when the novelty of the white man&#8217;s ways
+had passed, many of the natives lost all interest. Yet upon the Spokanes
+and the Nez Perc&eacute;s, lasting influences were wrought. The Nez Perc&eacute;s in
+particular, under the influence of their noble and intelligent chief,
+Hal-hal-tlos-sot, or Lawyer, almost decided the fate of American
+institutions in the upper Columbia River region for years.</p>
+
+<p>One of the especially interesting events in connection with the Nez Perc&eacute;
+mission was the acquisition by Mr. Spalding of the first printing-press
+used west of the Rocky Mountains. This was donated by the church of Rev.
+H. Bingham at Honolulu in 1839. The indefatigable Spalding, with the
+assistance of his wife, who had unusual powers as a linguist, began at
+once reducing the Nez Perc&eacute; language to a written form and printing in it
+translations of hymns and portions of the Bible. Some of these first books
+of the Columbia River are still in existence. The venerable printing-press
+is in the museum of the Oregon Pioneer Society at Portland.</p>
+
+<p>The most dramatic and influential event in connection with the missions of
+the Columbia, one of the most so in all American history, was Dr.
+Whitman&#8217;s<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> mid-winter ride in 1842-43 from Waiilatpu to St. Louis. Dr.
+Whitman, in common with Jason Lee, soon began to perceive that the
+Columbia Valley possessed resources and a location which would inevitably
+make it the seat of a civilised population. The corollary of this was that
+the mission must conform to the movements of the whites and in time cease
+to be simply an Indian mission. He perceived another thing. That was the
+purpose of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company to hold Oregon under English
+possession and keep it a wilderness for the sake of the fur-trade. The
+corollary of that was that, if American families could be induced to
+locate in Oregon, they would in time topple the scale in favour of
+American ownership.</p>
+
+<p>The value of Oregon was then but dimly understood among the Americans.
+Webster, Benton, and others of the great statesmen are on record in the
+<i>Congressional Globe</i> with many disparaging remarks upon &#8220;that worthless
+Columbia River country.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>Whitman watched all signs with anxious eye. Negotiations between England
+and the United States indicated a probable surrender to the former. The
+American Board was considering the abandonment of the mission. Looking
+over the broad field of the future of the American nation with a
+statesman&#8217;s vision, Dr. Whitman readily saw that the interests of his
+country and of Christian civilisation demanded the acquisition of Oregon.
+Those interests were in jeopardy. He made the great resolution to proceed
+at once to the &#8220;States&#8221; with the threefold aim: confer with the officers
+of the American Board on the retention of the mission, confer with
+President Tyler, Secretary Webster, and such others of the officers of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>
+government as he could see at Washington, and finally help organise and
+lead back to Oregon an American immigration. His fellow-missionaries
+strongly opposed his purpose. They felt that it was abandoning the
+religious aims of the mission to take up political questions. But he
+declared that he had not expatriated himself by becoming a missionary. Go
+he would. The undertaking seemed chimerical, even desperate. But Whitman
+was bold, athletic, persistent, possessing all the qualities of a hero.</p>
+
+<p>With a single white companion, A. L. Lovejoy, and one or more Indian
+guides, he left Waiilatpu on October 3, 1842. His journey through snow,
+ice, wind, hunger, peril, and deprivation of every sort, has been ofttimes
+described. The extent of his influence in securing the adoption by our
+Government of the policy of retaining Oregon has become the theme of
+earnest, even acrimonious discussion. The simple fact remains that Oregon
+was &#8220;saved&#8221; to the American Union. The missionaries Lee and Whitman bore,
+each his part, and a great one, in the great final result. It is not too
+much to say that of the various lines of influence by which the valley of
+the Columbia became American territory, that of missions was one of the
+strongest.</p>
+
+<p>The Catholic missions of the Columbia Valley have found several
+chroniclers, of whom the most valuable are Rev. F. N. Blanchet and Rev.
+Pierre J. De Smet. The former in his book, <i>The Catholic Church in
+Oregon</i>, gives a clear and circumstantial account of the founding and
+carrying on of the work in the Willamette Valley. The latter in his
+<i>Oregon Missions</i>, and <i>Western Missions and Missionaries</i>, has given a
+singularly graphic and interesting report on religious<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> progress, and with
+it many charming descriptions of the scenery and other natural conditions
+of the country.</p>
+
+<p>Father Blanchet, in company with Rev. Modest Demers, went from Montreal to
+Vancouver, a journey of over four thousand miles, in 1837. At the Little
+Dalles of the Columbia, near the present Northport, a lamentable disaster
+cost the lives of twelve of the company with whom they were travelling.
+Reaching Vancouver on November 24, 1837, they received from Dr.
+McLoughlin, who had himself been brought up a Catholic, a most cordial
+welcome, though apparently not more cordial than the good man had given
+Lee, the Methodist, and Whitman, the Presbyterian. The fact that there
+were so many French Canadians in the country made the way of the Catholic
+Fathers easier than that of the other missionaries. For the French, with
+their gayety, sociability, and usual habit of intermarriage with the
+Indians, were much more popular with them than were the more harsh and
+reserved British and Americans. In fact the Catholic Fathers found a
+building all ready for their use at the historic town of Champoeg on the
+Willamette, thirty miles above Portland. There in 1836, the French
+settlers had built a log church, the first church building in Oregon. It
+is rather sad to relate that petty dissensions and jealousies marred the
+relations between the Catholics and the Methodists. But both alike were
+zealous and indefatigable in promoting the secular and religious interests
+of both red men and white men.</p>
+
+<p>While Fathers Blanchet and Demers and their associates were busily engaged
+in the Willamette Valley, Father de Smet had come in 1840 into the
+Flathead country, in what is now Northern Idaho.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> His first mission was
+St. Mary&#8217;s, on the Flathead River, founded by the planting of the cross on
+September 24, 1841. Other missions were soon established on C&oelig;ur
+d&#8217;Alene Lake and Pend Oreille Lake. Branching out from them were missions
+in Colville, and ultimately in the Walla Walla, Yakima, Wenatchee, and
+Chelan valleys.</p>
+
+<p>De Smet greatly overestimated the number of Indians, reckoning those in
+Oregon at one hundred and ten thousand. He numbered his converts by the
+thousands. So pressing seemed the needs that in 1843, he went to Europe
+for reinforcements. He was very successful in his quest, returning the
+following year in the ship <i>L&#8217;Indefatigable</i>, from Antwerp, accompanied by
+four fathers, six sisters, and several lay brothers. He gives a thrilling
+account of his entrance of the Columbia River on July 31, 1844. He vividly
+portrays the terrors of the bar with the mighty surges dashing across the
+entrance. The captain did not understand the channel and became diverted
+from the true course, which was then by the north channel, and got into
+the south. The latter is now the main channel, but then was dangerous. De
+Smet piously regards their escape from wreck as due to the special
+interposition of divine providence, and to the favour extended to them
+because of its being the day sacred to St. Ignatius Loyola, founder of
+their order. De Smet&#8217;s brilliant and poetical descriptions of the grandeur
+of the river and its forests denote a keen appreciation of nature and a
+facile pen.</p>
+
+<p>Demers, De Smet, and Blanchet entered upon their work with such energy
+that by the time of De Smet&#8217;s<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> report in 1844 there had been established
+four dioceses in the region tributary to the Columbia; viz., Oregon City,
+Walla Walla, Fort Hall, and Colville. Oregon City was the Metropolitan See
+and in charge of Rev. F. N. Blanchet. Walla Walla was under the direction
+of Rev. Magloire Blanchet, who at that date had charge also of Forts Hall
+and Colville. Eleven chapels had been erected at different points; five in
+the Willamette Valley, one at Vancouver, one on the Cowlitz, one on
+C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene Lake, one on Pend Oreille Lake, one at Kettle Falls on the
+Columbia near Colville, and one near Calispell among the Flatheads. There
+were three schools; one being St. Mary&#8217;s among the Flatheads, while at St.
+Paul&#8217;s on the Willamette, there were two, a college for boys, still the
+site of a college, and a girls&#8217; academy. Twelve clergymen were engaged at
+that time in the work, and the number was soon increased to twenty-six by
+another reinforcement from Europe. With the reinforcement were also seven
+female teachers.</p>
+
+<p>Each of these three chief groups of missions had its special aims,
+methods, and results. The Catholic was more exclusively religious, while
+the Protestants passed over readily from their initial religious aims to
+the domain of political and educational interest. The net result was
+tremendous in the history of the country.</p>
+
+<p>Among the educational institutions growing directly out of the labours of
+the missionaries we may mention Willamette University at Salem, the direct
+successor of the Methodist mission at Chemeketa; Whitman College at Walla
+Walla, founded by Cushing Eells as a memorial to Marcus Whitman; Pacific<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>
+University at Forest Grove, Oregon, founded by a later set of
+Congregational Home Missionaries; and the Catholic College at St. Paul&#8217;s,
+the successor of the school founded in 1839 by Blanchet.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>They rest from their labours and their works do follow them.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h3>
+<p class="chapter">The Era of the Pioneers: their Ox-teams and their Flatboats</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Events and Men who led the Way to the Pioneer Age&mdash;Kelley, Wyeth, and
+Bonneville&mdash;Ewing Young&mdash;Farnham, Shortess, and the &#8220;Oregon
+Dragoons&#8221;&mdash;The Wilkes Expedition&mdash;The <i>Star of Oregon</i>, and the Cattle
+Enterprise&mdash;Dr. John McLoughlin and the Americans&mdash;Dr. Marcus Whitman
+and his Winter Ride, and the Immigration of 1843&mdash;Retrospect of J. W.
+Nesmith&mdash;Features of the Journey across the Plains&mdash;Whitman&#8217;s
+Services&mdash;Getting the Waggons across the Plains&mdash;Reaching the River
+and Building Boats&mdash;Delights and then Distress of the Descent of the
+River&mdash;Battle with the River&mdash;Condition in which they Reached
+Vancouver, and their Reception by Dr. McLoughlin&mdash;Subsequent
+Immigrations&mdash;The Barlow Road&mdash;The Donation Land Law&mdash;Quotation from
+Jesse Applegate.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">The</span> pioneer era was ushered in by the coming to Oregon of fur-hunters,
+missionaries, and little bands of adventurers, who together composed the
+nucleus of that American community which formed the Provisional Government
+of 1843. There were certain individuals, too, whose agency in leading the
+way to the immigration movement was so unique as to deserve mention.</p>
+
+<p>One of these was Hall J. Kelley of Boston. He was a native of New
+Hampshire and a Harvard graduate. As early as 1815, when seventeen years
+old, he conceived the idea of the colonisation of Americans in Oregon. He
+was a man of high scholarship, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>philanthropic spirit, and patriotic
+purpose. He was a dreamer and idealist, planning to form a community on
+the Columbia, as one of the Utopias which minds of that stamp, from Plato
+down, have been fond of locating somewhere in the unexplored West. After
+making a great effort, with partial success, to enlist Congress in his
+schemes, he succeeded in organising a company of several hundred, and by
+1828 shaped the definite plan of going to St. Louis and following the
+route of the fur companies across the plains to the River of Oregon. But
+opposition by those same fur companies, and adverse criticism by the press
+broke up his enterprise for that time. In 1832 he started with a small
+party for the land of his dreams by the route through Mexico and
+California. In California, he met with Ewing Young, an American of great
+natural abilities and some education. Young and Kelley, brainy and
+original men, the former from shrewd commercial instinct and the latter
+from philanthropic dreams, formed a little company, and proceeded overland
+from California to Oregon. This was in the autumn of 1834. When, after
+some disasters, the company of eleven reached the Columbia, Young took up
+a great tract of land in the Chehalem Valley, where he devoted himself to
+stock-raising. Kelley, having become an invalid, went in distress to Fort
+Vancouver, where Dr. McLoughlin treated him with kindness, though the
+exclusive &#8220;Britishers&#8221; would not admit him to &#8220;social equality.&#8221; The other
+members of the company were scattered in various directions, but some of
+them remained till American occupancy became an accomplished fact.</p>
+
+<p>This company of 1834,&mdash;the same year that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> Methodist missionaries
+under Jason Lee arrived&mdash;may be considered the advance guard of American
+immigration. Kelley, upon his return to New England by way of the Sandwich
+Islands, disseminated much useful information about Oregon. To him,
+without doubt, is to be attributed much of the subsequent wave of interest
+which swept on toward American immigration. As first a New England college
+man, educator, and social theoriser, and then a leader of the pioneer
+movement to Oregon, Hall J. Kelley is worthy of permanent remembrance.</p>
+
+<p>Ewing Young became distinguished for leading the party which in 1837 drove
+a band of seven hundred cattle from California to Oregon. This even marked
+an epoch in preparing for immigration and subsequent American possession.
+One of the peculiarly noteworthy facts in connection with Young&#8217;s
+enterprise, is that Dr. McLoughlin, the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company&#8217;s magnate,
+who had at first discountenanced Young on account of a charge of stealing
+brought against him from California, and who frowned upon the cattle
+enterprise for fear of American influence, became reconciled to both Young
+and the cattle, and subscribed liberally to the enterprise.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly contemporary with Kelley and Young were Bonneville and Wyeth.</p>
+
+<p>Bonneville was a well-educated French-American, a West Pointer, and
+holding the commission of captain in the United States Army. His ardent
+and imaginative disposition became fired with the thought of a far western
+expedition, and in 1832 he organised a fur-traders&#8217; company of a hundred
+and ten men. Though not realising his dreams of a fortune in furs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>
+Bonneville made many interesting and valuable observations upon the
+Salmon, Clearwater, Snake, and Columbia rivers. He became thoroughly
+imbued with the romance and scenic grandeur of the far West. Upon his
+return to New York, he had the good fortune to meet Washington Irving at
+the home of John Jacob Astor. Irving had already felt the irresistible
+fascination which the River of Oregon has wrought upon all poetical
+natures, and the result of this meeting was one of Irving&#8217;s most charming
+volumes, <i>Bonneville&#8217;s Adventures</i>, a volume which became another potent
+force in turning toward the Pacific slope the thoughts of the eager,
+restless people of the frontier.</p>
+
+<p>Still another in the group of men who led the way to immigration was
+Nathaniel Wyeth. He was a talented, well-educated, and energetic
+Bostonian. So distinguished a personage as James Russell Lowell has said
+of him: &#8220;He was a very remarkable person, whose conversation I valued
+highly. A born leader of men, he was fitly called Captain Nathaniel Wyeth
+as long as he lived.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>Wyeth conceived the idea of a great trading company on the Columbia, whose
+operations would necessarily create rivalry with the British. His design
+was to send companies across the continent to the Columbia head-waters and
+to maintain also ship connection by way of Cape Horn. He believed that a
+ship load of salmon from the Columbia River to the Atlantic sea-board
+would be a paying venture. On so large a scale did he lay out his
+enterprise that he expected soon to have a business of two hundred
+thousand dollars a year. But he looked beyond the fur<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> and salmon business
+to American possession and settlement, at least south of the River to the
+California line. He therefore embraced in his view the building of
+enterprises which should lead up to and then profit by American
+immigration. Wyeth spent five years in Oregon, having many interesting
+adventures, and as many business reverses. As was the case with Astor, the
+British fur-traders proved too powerful for the Yankee. Among other
+undertakings, he built a fort on Sauvie&#8217;s Island at the mouth of the
+Willamette, which he called Fort William. He desired to make this the
+basis of his trade, and he expected the Indians to go there to trade. But
+such was the influence of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay people and their employees with
+the Indians that Wyeth&#8217;s fort had no trade. It was during those years that
+a frightful pestilence swept the natives away like flies, and there was
+great fear among them that Wyeth&#8217;s fort might harbour the scourge. The
+period of Wyeth&#8217;s enterprise in Oregon extended from the spring of 1832 to
+the autumn of 1836. Though not a business success, it had a great bearing
+on the creation of an interest in Oregon, and on preparing for immigration
+a few years later. It opened the eyes of many Americans to the attractions
+of Oregon and to the tremendous power and profits of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay
+Company.</p>
+
+<p>The next movement may be called a real immigration to Oregon. It consisted
+of a party of nineteen, commonly known as the &#8220;Peoria party,&#8221; since they
+went from Peoria, Ill. Jason Lee, the missionary of Chemeketa, delivered a
+lecture at that place in 1838, and so much interest in Oregon was aroused
+that in the year following, the Peoria party, the first regular party<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span>
+from the Mississippi Valley, set forth for the River of the West. Their
+leader, T. J. Farnham, christened his followers the &#8220;Oregon Dragoons&#8221; and
+Mrs. Farnham gave them a flag with the inscription, &#8220;Oregon or the Grave.&#8221;
+Farnham declared his purpose to seize Oregon for the United States.</p>
+
+<p>The Peoria party had the good fortune to have two writers in the number,
+whose accounts possess rare interest. These writers were the leader
+Farnham, and Robert Shortess. The party went to pieces at Bent&#8217;s Fort on
+the Arkansas, but its members reached Oregon somewhat in driblets during
+that year, and the one following. Shortess reached the Whitman Mission at
+Walla Walla in the fall of 1839, and there he remained until the following
+spring, when he went down the River to The Dalles. From The Dalles, he
+made his way over the Cascade Mountains to the Willamette Valley, and
+there he lived many years. Farnham also finally reached Oregon, but his
+avowed mission was unfulfilled. Shortess says of him: &#8220;Instead of raising
+the American flag and turning the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company out-of-doors, he
+accepted the gift of a suit of clothes and a passage to the Sandwich
+Islands, and took a final leave of Oregon.&#8221; But upon his return to the
+&#8220;States,&#8221; Farnham published a <i>Pictorial History of Oregon and
+California</i>, a book of many interesting features, and one which played a
+worthy part in waking the people of the Mississippi Valley to the
+attractions of the Pacific Coast.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after the close of Wyeth&#8217;s enterprise, there were two notable
+government expeditions to the Columbia River. One was commanded by Sir
+Edward Belcher of the British Navy, and the other by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> Lieutenant Charles
+Wilkes of the American Navy. The Wilkes expedition was one of the most
+interesting and important ever undertaken by the United States Government.
+The squadron consisted of two sloops-of-war, the <i>Peacock</i> and the
+<i>Vincennes</i>, the store ship, <i>Relief</i>, the brig, <i>Porpoise</i>, and the
+schooners, <i>Sea Gull</i> and <i>Flying Fish</i>. This fine squadron took up its
+principal station on Puget Sound, from which extensive surveys were made,
+one across the mountains to Fort Okanogan; another of the Cowlitz Valley
+and the Columbia River as far as Wallula.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most important results of this elaborate Wilkes expedition was
+to establish in the minds of officers of the Government the essential
+unity of all parts of the Pacific Coast and the boundless opportunities
+offered to American immigration. Wilkes and his intelligent officers
+readily grasped, and conveyed through an elaborate report to the
+government, the idea that Puget Sound was an inherent and integral part of
+Oregon and that the Columbia Basin was essential to the proper development
+of American commerce upon the Pacific. They may also have forecast the
+time when California with her girdles of gold and chaplets of freedom
+would spring, Athena-like, from the Zeus brain of American enterprise. The
+control of the River was the key to the control of the entire coast from
+San Diego to the Straits of Fuca;&mdash;and American ownership should have
+extended to Sitka.</p>
+
+<p>A memorable calamity occurred to the squadron upon its entrance to the
+River, and that was the loss of the <i>Peacock</i> on the Columbia River bar.
+The oft-depicted terrors of the River were realised at that time, and yet
+it was not the River&#8217;s fault for the <i>Peacock</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> was out of the channel.
+The spit is known as &#8220;Peacock Spit&#8221; to this day.</p>
+
+<p>Among the many episodes connecting Wilkes with the early immigration was
+the building of the schooner <i>Star of Oregon</i> and her voyage to California
+for cattle. This was in 1842. It will be remembered that Ewing Young had
+made a successful trip from California with cattle. But as the population
+of the Columbia had increased, there was a great desire among the settlers
+to obtain a larger number of cattle to let loose upon the rich pasture
+lands of the Willamette Valley. A little group of Americans conceived the
+adventurous project of building a schooner of Oregon timber, sailing with
+her to California, exchanging her there for stock, and driving the band
+across the country home again. The schooner was built by Felix Hathaway,
+Joseph Gale, and Ralph Kilbourne. The oak and fir timber of which the
+vessel was built was cut on Sauvie&#8217;s Island, at the mouth of the
+Willamette, and in due time she was launched and taken to Willamette Falls
+for fitting. A difficulty arose. Dr. McLoughlin refused to sell sails,
+cordage, and other materials. He had the only supply in Oregon. In despair
+the enterprising ship-builders appealed to Lieutenant Wilkes. He felt a
+keen interest in their laudable undertaking and made a visit to McLoughlin
+to try to change his resolution. By assuring the Doctor that he would be
+responsible both for all the bills, as well as for the good conduct of the
+party, he induced him to allow the requisition for all materials necessary
+to complete the gallant craft. Gale was the only sailor in the party.
+Having satisfied Wilkes that he was qualified to command a ship, and
+having<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> received from him a present of a flag, an ensign, a compass,
+kedge-anchor, hawser, log line, and two log glasses, the captain flung the
+flag to the Oregon breeze and turned the prow of the <i>Star of Oregon</i>
+toward the River&#8217;s mouth. She may be remembered as the first sea-going
+vessel built of Oregon timber. Crossing the Bar in a storm, she sped
+southward in a spanking breeze, all hands seasick except Gale. He held the
+wheel thirty-six hours continuously, and in five days &#8220;dashed through the
+portals of the Golden Gate like an arrow, September 17, 1842.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>As it was too late to get the cattle back to Oregon that fall, the party
+sold their schooner for three hundred and fifty cows, wintered in
+California, and the next spring drove to the Columbia twelve hundred and
+fifty head of cattle, six hundred head of mules and horses, and three
+thousand sheep. This was an achievement which made the way for immigration
+clearer than ever before, and in a most effective manner united the
+American settlers with the American government. Some of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay
+Company people could begin to see the handwriting on the wall. Dr.
+McLoughlin saw most quickly and most clearly, and as elsewhere narrated,
+began to transfer his interests to the American side. This fine old man
+was big-brained, big-bodied, and big-souled, a natural American, though
+compelled to work for the British fur monopolists for the time. He admired
+the independent spirit of the incoming Yankee immigrants, even when the
+joke was on him. He afterwards told with much gusto of an American named
+Woods crossing the Columbia to Vancouver to try to get goods. He found his
+credit shaky, and somewhat piqued, he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> exclaimed: &#8220;Well, never mind, I
+have an uncle back East rich enough to buy out the whole of your old
+Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company!&#8221; &#8220;Well, well, Mr. Woods,&#8221; demanded the autocrat,
+&#8220;who may this very rich uncle of yours be?&#8221; &#8220;Uncle Sam,&#8221; was the unabashed
+and characteristic American reply. &#8220;Old Whitehead&#8221; also appreciated,
+though he was obliged to manifest a dignified disapproval, when two young
+men from New York, having reached the fort on the River, were asked about
+their passports. Laying their hands on their rifles they replied, &#8220;These
+are an American&#8217;s passports.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>These small miscellaneous immigrations were in continuance from about 1830
+to 1842. In the latter year a hundred came. In 1843, as elsewhere related,
+the Provisional Government was instituted. At the very same time, the
+immigration of 1843 was on its way to the River.</p>
+
+<p>This immigration of 1843 was in many respects the most remarkable of all.
+It was the first large one, and it was a type of all. It will be
+remembered that Dr. Marcus Whitman had made his great winter ride in
+1842-43 across the Rockies to St. Louis, with a double aim. First he
+wished to see the officers of the American Board of Missions, and then to
+enlist the American government and people in the policy of holding Oregon
+against the manifest aims of the British. There was already a tremendous
+interest felt in Oregon among the people of Missouri, Illinois, and the
+other great prairie States. Whitman&#8217;s opportune arrival and his announced
+purpose to guide an immigration to the Columbia became widely known, and
+brought to a focus many vaguely-considered plans.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>J. W. Nesmith, subsequently one of the most prominent pioneers and a
+member of each House of Congress from Oregon, has given a humorous account
+of the manner of starting this immigration of 1843, of which he was a
+member, which is so characteristic that we quote it here.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Mr. Burnett, or as he was more familiarly styled, &#8220;Pete,&#8221; was called
+upon for a speech. Mounting a log the glib-tongued orator delivered a
+glowing florid address. He commenced by showing his audience that the
+then western tier of states and territories were crowded with a
+redundant population, who had not sufficient elbow room for the
+expansion of their enterprise and genius, and it was a duty they owed
+to themselves and posterity to strike out in search of a more expanded
+field and a more genial climate, where the soil yielded the richest
+return for the slightest amount of cultivation,&mdash;where the trees were
+loaded with perennial fruit,&mdash;and where a good substitute for bread,
+called La Camash, grew in the ground; where salmon and other fish
+crowded the streams; and where the principal labour of the settlers
+would be confined to keeping their gardens free from the inroads of
+buffalo, elk, deer, and wild turkeys. He appealed to our patriotism by
+picturing forth the glorious empire we should establish upon the
+shores of the Pacific,&mdash;how with our trusty rifles we should drive out
+the British usurpers who claimed the soil, and defend the country from
+the avarice and pretensions of the British Lion,&mdash;and how posterity
+would honour us for placing the fairest portion of the land under the
+Stars and Stripes.... Other speeches were made full of glowing
+descriptions of the fair land of promise, the far-away Oregon, which
+no one in the assemblage had ever seen, and about which not more than
+half a dozen had ever read any account. After the election of Mr.
+Burnett as captain, and other necessary officers, the meeting, as
+motley and primitive a one as ever assembled, adjourned with &#8220;three
+cheers&#8221; for Captain Burnett and Oregon.</p></div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span>Peter Burnett to whom Nesmith here refers, was the same who became the
+first governor of California.</p>
+
+<p>By the walnut hearth-fires in many a home of the prairie States and at the
+corn-huskings and quilting bees the talk of Oregon and the forests of the
+Columbia, and the rich pasture lands of the Willamette, and the salmon and
+game, and genial climate and majestic mountains, went the rounds. Interest
+grew into enthusiasm, enthusiasm waxed hot, and in the early spring the
+great immigration of 1843 set forth from Westport, Missouri, for the
+Columbia waters. Though the immigration of 1843 was the earliest of any
+size and the first with any number of women and children, it had perhaps
+the least trouble and misfortune and the most romance and gayety and
+enthusiasm of any. The experience of crossing the plains was one which
+nothing else could duplicate;&mdash;the hasty rising in the chill damp of the
+morning, the preparing the cattle and horses for the long, hard drive, the
+rounds of the waggons to strengthen bolts and tires and tongues, the
+loading of the rifles for possible hostile Indians or buffalo, the setting
+forth of the scouts on horseback, the long train strung across the dusty
+plain, the occasional bands of wild Indians emerging like a whirlwind from
+the broad expanse, and then the approaching cool of night with its hurried
+rest on the rough prairie sod. Sometimes there were nights of storm and
+stampede and darkness. Sometimes savage beasts and savage men startled the
+train, or one of the stupendous herds of buffalo went thundering across
+the prairie. Then came the first glimpse of snowy heights, then of deep
+ca&ntilde;ons, and then the summit was attained, and far westward stretched the
+maze of plains and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> mountains through which the Snake River, the greatest
+of the tributaries of the Columbia, took its swift way.</p>
+
+<p>During most of the journey, Dr. Marcus Whitman was guide, physician, and
+friend. While severe controversy has arisen as to the extent of his
+services in organising the immigration, the testimony is unvarying as to
+the value of his presence with the train. Last to bed at night and first
+up in the morning, attending both people, cattle, and horses in their
+sicknesses and accidents, ahead of the train on horseback to find the
+passes of the hills and the fords of the rivers, the watcher by night and
+the pilot by day, the missionary doctor was the veritable &#8220;Mr. Greatheart&#8221;
+of the immigration.</p>
+
+<p>Great was the astonishment of Captain Grant, commandant of the Hudson&#8217;s
+Bay Fort Hall on Snake River, near the present Pocatello, when the long
+train filed past the enclosure. Grant had known Whitman before and was
+aware of his stubborn determination and patriotic purpose. But Grant
+attempted just the same to dissuade the immigrants of 1843 from going
+farther with their waggons, declaring the Blue Mountains to be impassable.
+The doughty doctor simply laughed quietly and told the immigrants to push
+on, and he would see them through. But just as they were entering the
+rough defiles of the Blue Mountains, a band of Indians from Waiilatpu,
+headed by Sticcus, came to meet the train, searching for Whitman, telling
+him that his medical services were in great demand at Lapwai. The
+much-needed guide turned over the pilotage of the train to Sticcus, and he
+himself hastened on to minister to the sick at <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>Lapwai. As he passed
+through Waiilatpu he learned that the threatening conduct of the Indians
+had led Mrs. Whitman to go to Vancouver, and that during his absence the
+Indians had burned his mill and committed other depredations. But it was
+his lot to labour and suffer. He had become accustomed to it.</p>
+
+<p>The event proved that Sticcus was a thoroughly capable guide. For, though
+not speaking a word of English, he made his directions so well understood
+by pantomime that, as Mr. Nesmith has said, he led them safely over the
+roughest mountain road that they ever saw. And so in due time the train
+emerged from the screen of timber on the Blue Mountains. Stretched wide
+before them, lay the plains of Umatilla and Walla Walla, while in the far
+distance the River of the West poured through the arid waste. Yet farther
+the snow summits of the Cascades ridged the western sky. After a brief
+pause at Waiilatpu, the train reached the banks of the River. The
+immediate vicinity of the section of the River first reached is very dry
+in autumn. Aside from the River itself, the immediate scene is desolate
+and forbidding. But probably those immigrants of &#8217;43 gazed upon the blue
+flood, a mile wide and hastening to the western ocean, with feelings
+almost akin to those which swelled the hearts of the Pilgrims landing from
+the <i>Mayflower</i>. This was another epic of state-making, and one generation
+after another of the Americans who have wrought such achievement may well
+turn back to join hands with those before.</p>
+
+<p>Doubtless the immigrants, as they stood by the River in the pleasant haze
+of the October afternoon, felt as though their journey was substantially
+at an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> end. Being now at Fort Walla Walla on the river of that name, they
+paused to make ready for the last stage of the journey, little realising
+what perils and sufferings it would entail. Dr. Whitman and Archibald
+McKinley, the chief factor at the fort, advised them to leave their cattle
+and waggons to winter on the Walla Walla, while they pursued their way
+down the stream on flatboats. Part of the company accepted the advice, but
+a number determined to keep all their belongings together and to take
+their road along the bank of the River to The Dalles, and there make their
+flatboats.</p>
+
+<p>To those who remained on the Walla Walla now fell the difficult task of
+constructing flatboats. Huge, uncouth, structures they were, made of
+timber gathered on the river bank. But when loaded and pushed out into the
+swift current, steered with immense sweeps in the stern, these flatboats
+afforded to the footsore and exhausted immigrants a delightful change. Out
+of the dust, off the rocks, away from the sage-brush, with more of laugh
+and song than they had had for many a day, they swept gaily on. For a
+hundred miles or more the elements were propitious. With the bright
+sunshine, the clear, cool water, the majestic snow-peaks in the distance,
+the easily gliding boats,&mdash;this seemed the pleasantest part of the entire
+journey. But after The Dalles had been reached and the two divisions of
+the company were again united and on their way down the River to the
+Cascades, disaster began to haunt them. At the Cascades, a boat with
+several members of the Applegate family, one of the most prominent in the
+immigration as well as afterwards, was overturned in the rapids, and three
+of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> party drowned in the boiling surge. Two were saved in a way that
+seems almost miraculous. One of these was a young boy, the other a young
+man. The boy was very active and an excellent swimmer. After the
+overturning of the boat he was carried two miles in the current, part of
+the time being entirely sucked under by the whirling under-current. After
+being tossed with violence betwixt rock and wave till it seemed that he
+must expire, he was suddenly spewed forth upon a ledge of slippery rock,
+to which he clung desperately till he had recovered breath. Then he drew
+himself up on a narrow shelf, and at the same instant saw the young man
+swept by. Reaching forth, the brave boy managed to bring the struggling
+man to the same shelter with himself. But when they had regained
+sufficient strength to examine their surroundings, they discovered that
+they were on a rocky niche from which they could find no ascent of the
+ragged precipitous cliff. They were in a trap. Looking across the River,
+they could see that the bank was smooth and that on that side lay the
+trail. Young Applegate saw that a reef extended a considerable part of the
+way across the River, and desperate as the attempt seemed, he resolved to
+pick his way along the reef to a point whence he might swim to the other
+shore. It was his only chance for life. Fearful as were the odds, the
+daring lad accomplished his aim. He emerged on the further end of the
+reef. Looking around, he discovered that his comrade had not possessed the
+nerve to follow. And then,&mdash;most wonderful of all,&mdash;back he went to assist
+his more timid fellow. In this, too, he succeeded, and after a return in
+which they should have been drowned a dozen times,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> they both reached the
+farther end of the reef. There casting themselves again into the
+inhospitable flood, they buffeted their way to shore. Battered, bruised,
+exhausted, they yet recovered and lived to a good old age to tell the tale
+of their fight with the Columbia River.</p>
+
+<p>From the Cascades to Vancouver, the company suffered more than in all the
+rest of their journey. The fall rains were at hand, and it poured with an
+unremitting energy such as no one can realise who has not seen a rain
+storm on the lower River. Food had become almost exhausted. Clothing was
+in rags. Tired, hungry, wet, cold, disheartened, the immigrants who had so
+jauntily descended the River to this &#8220;Strait of Horrors,&#8221; presented a most
+woful appearance. It actually seemed that many must perish. But in the
+crisis, help came. One of the party managed to procure a canoe and
+hastened down the River to Fort Vancouver. As soon as Dr. McLoughlin
+learned that nearly nine hundred men, women, and children were beleaguered
+in the mist and chill, he equipped boats with flour, meat, and tea, and in
+his choleric excitement, waving his huge cane, bade the boatman hurry to
+the rescue. It was not business for the good Doctor to thus aid and abet
+American immigrants, and the directors of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company and the
+cold-blooded Sir George Simpson, Governor-in-chief, disapproved. But it
+was humanity, and that ever predominated in the mind of &#8220;Old Whitehead.&#8221;
+The next night he caused vast bonfires to be alight along the bank, and
+gathered all the eatables and blankets that the place afforded. When the
+boat loads of the battered, but rescued Americans drew near, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> Doctor
+was on the bank to meet them, to hand out the women and children, to
+administer the balm of cheery words and warmth and food. Few were the
+travellers on the River, none were the immigrants of &#8217;43, who would not
+rise up and call him blessed.</p>
+
+<p>After this happy pause at Vancouver, the immigration passed on to the
+Willamette Falls, then the centre of operations in Oregon, and there they
+were soon joined by the chosen men who had driven their thirteen hundred
+head of cattle by the trail over the Cascade Mountains, a task toilsome
+and even distressing, but one that was accomplished. After an inactive
+winter in the mild, muggy, misty Oregon climate, the immigrants of &#8217;43
+spread abroad in the opening spring to secure land, each his square mile,
+as the Provisional Government provided, and as the American government was
+contemplating.</p>
+
+<p>Such was the coming of the immigrants to the River. Subsequent
+immigrations bore a general resemblance to that of 1843. Each had its
+special feature. That of 1845 was conspicuous for its size. It was three
+thousand strong. It was also illustrious for the laying out of the road
+across the Cascade Mountains near the southern flank of Mt. Hood. This
+noble and difficult undertaking was carried through by S. K. Barlow and
+William Rector. It was a terrific task, and was not completed the first
+year. Ca&ntilde;ons, precipitous rocks, morasses, sand-hills, tangled forests,
+fallen trees, criss-crossed and interlaced with briars and vines and
+shrubbery of tropical luxuriance, such as no one can appreciate who has
+not seen an Oregon jungle,&mdash;these were the obstructions to the Barlow
+Road. But they were vanquished and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> in 1846 and thence onward the
+immigrants made this the regular route to the Willamette Valley. So steep
+was Laurel Hill on the western slope that waggons had to be let down by
+ropes from level to level. The marks of the ropes or chains are still seen
+on the trees of Laurel Hill. The immigration of 1852 was sadly conspicuous
+for the devastations of cholera. Many a family was broken in sunder and
+some even were entirely eliminated by the dreadful plague. The
+immigrations of 1854 and 1855 were notable for the Indian outbreaks, and
+especially for the atrocious butchery of the Ward family near Bois&eacute; in the
+earlier year, the most pitiless Indian outrage in Oregon history.</p>
+
+<p>From 1850 onward for some years the Donation Land Law of Congress was a
+great lure to immigrants, for by it a man and wife could obtain a section
+of land. A single man could take up half a section. That situation
+encouraged early marriages. Girls were in great demand. It was not
+uncommon to see fourteen-year-old brides. Some narrators relate having
+found married women in the woods of the Columbia who were playing with
+their dolls! But though the immigrations varied in special features, they
+were all alike in their mingling of mirth and melancholy, of toil and
+rest, of suffering and enjoyment, of heroism, and self-sacrifice. They
+embodied an epoch of American history that can never come again. To have
+been an immigrant from the Missouri to the Columbia was an experience to
+which nothing else on earth is comparable. It confers a title of American
+nobility by the side of which the coronets of some European dukes are
+tawdry and contemptible. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>Perhaps no one ever better phrased the spirit of
+Oregon immigration than Jesse Applegate of the train of &#8217;43, one of the
+foremost of Oregon&#8217;s builders, long known as the &#8220;Sage of Yoncalla.&#8221; So
+fitting do we deem his language that we quote here an extract from one of
+his addresses.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The Western pioneer had probably crossed the Blue Ridge or the
+Cumberland Mountains when a boy and was now in his prime. Rugged,
+hardy, and powerful of frame, he was full to overflowing with the love
+of adventure, and animated by a brave soul that scorned the very idea
+of fear. All had heard of the perpetually green hills and plains of
+Western Oregon, and how the warm breath of the vast Pacific tempered
+the air to the genial degree and drove winter back to the North. Many
+of them contrasted in imagination the open stretch of a mile square of
+rich, green, and grassy land, where the strawberry plant bloomed
+through every winter month, with their circumscribed clearings in the
+Missouri bottoms. Of long winter evenings neighbours visited each
+other, and before the big shell-bark hickory fire, the seasoned walnut
+fire, the dry black-jack fire, or the roaring dead elm fire, they
+talked these things over; and as a natural consequence, under these
+favourable circumstances, the spirit of emigration warmed up; and the
+&#8220;Oregon fever&#8221; became as a household expression. Thus originated the
+vast cavalcade, or emigrant train, stretching its serpentine length
+for miles, enveloped in vast pillars of dust, patiently wending its
+toilsome way across the American continent.</p>
+
+<p>How familiar these scenes and experiences with the old pioneers! The
+vast plains, the uncountable herds of buffalo; the swift-footed
+antelope; the bands of mounted, painted warriors; the rugged
+snow-capped mountain ranges; the deep, swift, and dangerous rivers;
+the lonesome howl of the wild wolf; the midnight yell of the
+assaulting savage; the awful panic and stampede; the solemn and silent
+funeral at the dead hour of night, and the lonely and hidden grave of
+departed friends,&mdash;what memories are associated with the Plains
+across!</p></div>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h3>
+<p class="chapter">Conflict of Nations for Possession of the River</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">The Six Nations at First Engaged in the Conflict&mdash;The Three Left in
+it&mdash;Claims by Sea of Spain, England, and the United States&mdash;Claims by
+Land&mdash;Rivalries of the Great Fur Companies&mdash;Capture of Astoria by the
+English&mdash;Its Restoration to the United States&mdash;Appearance of Fort
+George in 1818&mdash;Joint Occupation Treaty of 1818&mdash;Florida Treaty of
+1819&mdash;Treaty with Russia in 1825&mdash;Forces on the Side of England and
+those on the side of the United States&mdash;American Triumph
+Inevitable&mdash;Policy of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company in Contrast with that
+of the American Immigration&mdash;Indifference of the American
+Government&mdash;Utterances of Some American Statesmen&mdash;Doings of the
+American People&mdash;Gathering of the Little American Colony in the
+Willamette Valley&mdash;Need of Government&mdash;First Meeting at
+Champoeg&mdash;Advice of Commodore Wilkes that they Delay&mdash;The &#8220;Wolf
+Meetings&#8221;&mdash;Second Meeting at Champoeg, and Establishment of the
+Provisional Government&mdash;Its Chief Provisions&mdash;Thornton&#8217;s Account of
+the &#8220;Hall&#8221; at Champoeg&mdash;Peter H. Burnett&mdash;Dr. McLoughlin&#8217;s
+Position&mdash;Triumphs of the American Immigrant over the Great Fur
+Company&mdash;McLoughlin and Whitman&mdash;Movements of Diplomacy between
+England and the United States&mdash;Webster, Linn, Benton, and
+Calhoun&mdash;Inconsistent Positions of the Democratic Party&mdash;Polk and the
+Platform of 54 Degrees 40 Minutes, or Fight&mdash;Near Approach of
+War&mdash;Compromise on the Line of 49 Degrees&mdash;Momentous Nature of the
+Issue&mdash;Triumph of American Home-builders.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">Earlier</span> chapters of this volume have already developed some of the
+essential elements in the complicated strife of the maritime nations of
+the world for possession of the land of the Oregon. This brief chapter
+will endeavour to recapitulate and group those steps, and to trace the
+course of events by which the line finally was drawn on the parallel of 49
+degrees.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>As we have seen, the many-named river, and the fact that it was the key to
+a vast region and that the shores of the ocean contiguous to it seemed to
+abound in the finest of furs, was a lure to Portuguese, Frenchman,
+Russian, Spaniard, Englishman, and American. The first three became early
+eliminated from the conflict, and the last three fought the triangular
+battle to its ending with the final result that Uncle Sam inserted his
+broad shoulders between Mexico and the 49th parallel, and thus controls
+the choicest land of the sunset slope of the continent.</p>
+
+<p>Spain, England, and the United States each had a valid claim to Oregon.
+Spain, by the partial discovery of the River by Heceta in 1775, by the
+voyages of Bodega and Arteaga in the same year and again in 1779, and by
+the voyage of Valdez and Galiano around Vancouver Island in 1792, together
+with many other voyages of a less definite nature by illustrious
+navigators, as Malaspina, Bustamente, Elisa, and others, had a strong
+position. Yet she had failed to clinch her discoveries or to take
+effective possession.</p>
+
+<p>Great Britain could point to the elaborate examinations of Cook and
+Vancouver. The latter had made a minute investigation of the noble group
+of waters whose outlet preserves the name of the old Greek pilot of
+Cephalonia, Juan de Fuca; and his Lieutenant Broughton had entered the
+Columbia River and proceeded over a hundred miles up the stream. The
+nomenclature given to both the River and the Sound regions by Vancouver
+had been the first in any sense complete. So England, too, had a strong
+claim.</p>
+
+<p>And what were the claims of the United States?<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> First and foremost was the
+discovery by Robert Gray of the River and his actual twenty-five-mile
+ascension of it in May, 1792. He had gone much farther than Heceta, who
+had only looked in, but he had not gone so far as Broughton. The latter
+indeed, claimed, and his government followed him in the claim, that Gray
+had not really been in the River at all, but was only in an estuary of the
+sea into which the River flowed. But that, to any one who has seen the
+River, is too much of a forced construction to stand serious examination.
+Moreover, Gray antedated Broughton by some months.</p>
+
+<p>Turning from sea claims to land claims, England could point to Alexander
+Mackenzie as having crossed the continent in 1792, and as having reached
+the veritable ocean at Cascade Inlet. But it again was a very strained
+construction to extend that claim so far as to include the lower Columbia
+Valley. The United States could justly advance as a sufficient offset, the
+expedition of Lewis and Clark in 1804. In 1811 David Thompson had
+traversed the entire length of the Columbia for the British flag, only to
+find the Astor Company already established under the Stars and Stripes at
+the mouth of the River. From these essential facts out of many, we can
+easily draw the conclusion that no one of these three contestants could
+justly be too arrogant and exclusive. Some degree of modesty was befitting
+each.</p>
+
+<p>We have already seen the rivalries of the great fur companies, the
+Hudson&#8217;s Bay and the North-western of the British, and the Pacific of the
+Americans, and the effect of the War of 1812 on their fortunes. As a
+result of that war the Pacific Fur<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> Company sold out to the North-westers,
+and a few years later the North-westers united with the Hudson&#8217;s Bay
+Company under the name of the latter. To all appearance the Yankee was
+worsted, and the Briton in possession of the River.</p>
+
+<p>But the Treaty of Ghent in 1815, closing the War of 1812, provided that
+all territory taken by either party should be restored. The boundary line
+west of the Lake of the Woods was left undrawn. John Jacob Astor now
+applied to the Government to restore his captured property on the
+Columbia, stating that if again in possession, he would resume his former
+operations. The United States Government accordingly notified Great
+Britain of its intention to re-occupy the fort at the Columbia&#8217;s mouth.
+For two years the communication lay unanswered. In September, 1817, the
+sloop-of-war, <i>Ontario</i>, Captain J. Biddle, was despatched to the Columbia
+with Mr. J. B. Provost as special agent, under instructions to assert the
+claim of the United States to the territory of the River. This decisive
+move compelled Great Britain to come out from under cover. A long and
+tedious diplomatic warfare ensued. Meanwhile the <i>Ontario</i> was pursuing
+her long journey around Cape Horn. In 1818, an agreement was reached to
+the effect that Astoria should be formally restored to the United States,
+but that the North-western Fur Company should be allowed to remain in
+actual possession. Captain Biddle of the <i>Ontario</i> had left Mr. Provost in
+Chile and had proceeded to the Columbia to take possession. Captain
+Sheriff, commandant of the British ships in the Pacific, being in
+Valparaiso, in H. M. S. <i>Blossom</i>, learning of Mr. Provost&#8217;s presence<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>
+there, conceived the happy thought that it would be an international
+courtesy to invite Mr. Provost to accompany him to Astoria. Accordingly on
+October 1, 1818, the <i>Blossom</i> pushed her bow across the Bar, and on the
+6th the formal ceremony of transfer from the Union Jack to the Stars and
+Stripes took place. Captain J. Hickey of the <i>Blossom</i> represented Great
+Britain, Mr. J. Keith acted for the North-west Fur Company, while Mr.
+Provost stood for the United States. It seems to have been a very
+good-natured affair throughout. Placards were posted at the capes on both
+sides of the River declaring the change of sovereignty. Fort George was
+quite a powerful structure at that time, consisting of a strong stockade
+of fir logs twelve feet high, enclosing a parallelogram one hundred and
+fifty by two hundred and fifty feet, having within it dwellings, shops,
+store houses, and magazines. On the walls were two eighteen-pound cannon,
+six six-pounders, four four-pound carronades, two six-pound cohorns, and
+seven swivels. The day of transfer must have been a very picturesque day
+among the many such in Astoria&#8217;s history. We can imagine the soft October
+haze floating over Cape Hancock, and the long, lazy swell of six thousand
+miles of sea, thundering across Point Adams.</p>
+
+<p>One interesting feature of Mr. Provost&#8217;s presence at Astoria was his
+observation of the bar at the entrance of the River. This had generally
+been represented to the world as something frightful. It is often so
+represented at the present time. Mr. Provost in a letter to Secretary of
+State, John Quincy Adams, says that there is a spacious bay, by no means
+so difficult of ingress as has been represented.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> He states that there is
+a bar across the mouth of the River, at either extremity of which there
+are sometimes appalling breakers; but that there is a channel of nearly a
+league in width with a depth of twenty-one feet at the lowest tides. He
+thinks, therefore, that with proper buoys the access to vessels of almost
+any tonnage may be rendered secure. This statement in regard to the Bar is
+of much interest as furnishing a basis for comparison with the present
+conditions. The depth at low tide now is about twenty-six feet, the
+increase probably being due to the jetty.</p>
+
+<p>The logic of the restoration of Astoria to the United States, while at the
+same time the British Fur Company was left in practical possession, was
+realised in the Joint Occupation Treaty of 1818. By this singular
+arrangement it was agreed that any country on the north-west coast of
+America that may be claimed by either power shall be open for ten years to
+the vessels, citizens, and subjects of the two powers.</p>
+
+<p>In 1819 another very important step was taken; viz.: the Florida Treaty
+with Spain. By this, Spain retired to the line of 42 degrees, ceding to
+the American Republic all her rights above that line. With her own claims
+joined to those of Spain, the Republic would seem to be able to snap her
+fingers at England. But, with characteristic tenacity, the latter power
+made ready to insist all the more strenuously upon her claims. In 1825
+England and the United States agreed with Russia upon the line of 54
+degrees 40 minutes, as the southern line of Russian claims. With Spain and
+Russia out of it, Oregon was left for England and the United States to
+fight over. The Joint Occupation Treaty was to last ten years,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> with the
+privilege of renewal. Meanwhile what were the factors in the struggle for
+possession? There was on the side of England the Briarean monopoly of the
+Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company, supported by a disciplined and intelligent
+government. But the English people were not in it. On the American side
+the Government was strangely indifferent. There were several ambitious
+attempts to control the situation by American trading and fur companies.
+But the essential forces were the American immigrant, the American
+missionary, the Declaration of Independence, and the ox-team. Those were
+the champions of America. They were the Davids against the Goliaths of
+British monopoly. At first thought it seemed that Goliath would have a
+&#8220;walk-over.&#8221; The case seemed hopeless for the Americans.</p>
+
+<p>But to the deeper observer, American triumph was inevitable. It was the
+Age of Democracy. The conception both of popular government and of
+individual ownership of land, with which went the corollary of &#8220;equal
+opportunities for all men and special privileges for none,&#8221; was graven
+deep upon American character. With these things there went, of necessity,
+the disapproval of slavery and the support of free labour. Still further
+there went, by the same logic, the doctrine of unity and continental
+expansion. These various influences have constituted the broad foundation
+on which were reared the towers and battlements of American nationality.</p>
+
+<p>In previous chapters we have outlined the operations of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay
+Company, the coming of the missionaries, and the immigrations of
+Americans. The policy of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company was to keep the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> country
+a wilderness, to maintain amicable relations with the Indians, and to
+depend mainly on the fur-trade for the great profits of their enterprise.
+The policy of the American immigrants was to build homes, cities, roads,
+steamboats, mills, develop the country, crowd out the natives, and depend
+on mining, farming, stock-raising, lumbering, for their profits; not
+profits of a monopoly located in a distant money centre, but profits of
+the individual worker on his own land. The difference was world-wide. It
+represented two different conceptions of government and of life itself.</p>
+
+<p>But though the American people had the manifest destiny of expanding to
+the Pacific, the Government was strangely supine. We say &#8220;strangely,&#8221; but
+it was not so strange after all. Congress was dominated by the South in
+the interest of slavery, and by the East in the interest of the tariff.
+Calhoun usually led the South, and he weighed everything in the scales of
+slavery. Webster governed Eastern sentiment largely, and he spoke for New
+England manufacturers. It is true that Clay was at all times a power in
+the councils of the nation, and Clay&#8217;s constant word was nationalisation
+and expansion. But even Clay was so committed to the tariff that he did
+not always appreciate the possibilities of the &#8220;West-most West.&#8221; The
+Presidents of the period from 1819 to 1846 were from the South or the
+Atlantic seaboard and not usually inclined to regard the far West with
+special interest.</p>
+
+<p>The American people were away ahead of the American government in the
+struggle for possession of Oregon. A few of the utterances of leading
+statesmen of that period as significant of their <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span>conception of Oregon,
+may be given here. Benton, who became later the greatest champion of
+Oregon, was so imperfectly informed in 1825 that he spoke thus: &#8220;The ridge
+of the Rocky Mountains may be named as a convenient, natural, and
+everlasting boundary. Along this ridge the western limit of the Republic
+should be drawn, and the statue of the fabled god Terminus should be
+erected on its highest peak, never to be thrown down.&#8221; But Benton
+improved, for later referring to the Columbia, he said, &#8220;That way lies the
+Orient.&#8221; Webster said of Oregon: &#8220;What do we want of this vast, worthless
+area, this region of savages and wild beasts, of shifting sands and
+whirlwinds of dust, of cactus and prairie dogs. To what use could we ever
+hope to put these great deserts or these great mountain ranges,
+impenetrable and covered to their base with eternal snow? What can we ever
+hope to do with the western coast, a coast of three thousand miles,
+rock-bound, cheerless, and uninviting, and not a harbour on it? What use
+have we of such a country? Mr. President, I will never vote one cent from
+the public treasury to place the Pacific Coast one inch nearer Boston than
+it is now.&#8221; And that was &#8220;God-like Dan!&#8221; Dayton expressed himself thus:
+&#8220;God forbid that the time should ever come when a State on the shores of
+the Pacific, with interests and tendencies of trade all looking toward the
+Asiatic nations of the East, shall add its jarring claims to our
+distracted and already overburdened confederacy.&#8221; The <i>National
+Intelligencer</i> doubtless expressed a common sentiment in the following:
+&#8220;Of all the countries upon the face of the earth, Oregon is one of the
+least favoured by nature. It is almost as barren as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> Sahara and quite as
+unhealthy as the campagna of Italy.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>Such an estimate by American statesmen was all right to the Hudson&#8217;s Bay
+Company. They wished such an estimate and had taken pains to foster it.
+But while the gullible American statesmen were thus accepting just the
+version which their rivals were disseminating, the hard-handed and
+hard-headed, though not hard-hearted frontiersmen of Missouri and Illinois
+and Iowa were packing their ox-teams and starting across the desert for
+that Sahara on the Columbia River. Also one Marcus Whitman, a missionary
+physician of the Walla Walla, was floundering in the snows of the Sierra
+Madre and crossing the Arkansas through broken ice, in order to tell the
+benighted statesmen what the land of the Oregon really was like. The
+American people were busy, and the statesmen looked askance. And so, a few
+here and a few there, by trail or ship, adventurers, missionaries,
+sailors, trappers, there was formed a gathering in the Willamette of the
+advance guard of American home-builders. They began to call out of the
+wilderness to Uncle Sam.</p>
+
+<p>As a result of the coming of the missionaries and of the small
+immigrations of the thirties and early forties, together with the
+settlement in the Willamette Valley of various French-Canadian employees
+of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company, there was enough of a population to demand
+some sort of organised society.</p>
+
+<p>W. H. Gray made a summary of population in 1840 to consist of two hundred
+persons, of whom a hundred and thirty-seven were American and sixty-three
+Canadian. Up to 1839 the only law was the rules of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay
+Company. In that year<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> the Methodist missionaries suggested that two
+persons be named as magistrates to administer justice according to the
+ordinary rules of American law. This was the first move looking to
+American political organisation. In 1839 and 1840 memorials were presented
+to the Senate by Senator Linn of Missouri at the request of American
+settlers praying for the attention of Congress to their needs. But, not
+content with lifting their voices to the home land, they proceeded to
+organise for themselves.</p>
+
+<p>At that time, Champoeg, a few miles above the falls of the Willamette and
+located pleasantly on the west bank of that river, was the chief
+settlement. There, on the seventh of February, 1841, a gathering of the
+settlers was held &#8220;for the purpose of consulting upon steps necessary to
+be taken for the formation of laws, and the election of officers to
+execute them.&#8221; Jason Lee, the Methodist missionary, was chairman of the
+meeting, and he outlined what he deemed the needed method of establishing
+a reign of law and order. The meeting proved rather a conference than an
+organisation and the people dispersed to meet again at the call of the
+chairman.</p>
+
+<p>A week later an event occurred which brought most forcibly to the minds of
+the settlers the need of better organisation. This was the death of Ewing
+Young, one of the most prominent men of the little community. He left
+considerable property, with no known heirs and no one to act as
+administrator. It became clear that some legal status must be established
+for the settlement. Another meeting was held, in which it was determined
+that a government be instituted, having the officers usual in an American<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span>
+locality. The work of framing a constitution was entrusted to a committee,
+in which the five different elements, the Methodist missionaries, the
+Catholics, the French Canadians, the independent American settlers, and
+the English, had representation. The committee was instructed to confer
+with Commodore Wilkes of the American Exploring Squadron, just at that
+time in the River, and Dr. McLoughlin, the Hudson&#8217;s Bay magnate. Wilkes
+advised the settlers to wait for added strength and for the United States
+Government to throw its mantle over them. The committee decided that his
+advice was sound and indefinitely adjourned. Constitution building rested
+for a time along the shores of the Willamette.</p>
+
+<p>In 1841 and 1842, two hundred and twenty Americans reached Oregon,
+doubling the population.</p>
+
+<p>The Americans were ill at ease without a government and kept agitating the
+question of another meeting. But the English and the Catholic influences
+opposed this. Some diplomacy was needed. The irrepressible Yankees were
+equal to it. They determined to draw the settlers together under the
+announcement of a meeting for the purpose of discussing the means of
+protecting themselves against the ravages of the numerous wild beasts of
+the valley. W. H. Gray was the leading spirit in this enterprise. In a
+most picturesque and valuable account of it, John Minto has developed the
+thought that the founding of the Oregon State bore a striking resemblance
+to that stage in the Roman state, subsequently celebrated in the festival
+of Lupercalia, wherein the first organisation was for defence against the
+wild beasts. So the Willamette witnessed again the gathering of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>
+clans, Americans, English, French, half-breeds, Catholics, Protestants,
+Independents, all coming together to protect themselves against the bears,
+cougars, and wolves. The meetings were usually known thereafter as the
+&#8220;wolf meetings.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>James O&#8217;Neil was made chairman of this historic gathering. With the
+astuteness characteristic of American politicians, a previous
+understanding had been made between Mr. O&#8217;Neil and the little coterie of
+which Mr. Gray was the manager, that everything should be shaped to the
+ultimate end of raising the question of a government. As soon, therefore,
+as the ostensible aim of the meeting had been attained, W. H. Gray arose
+and broached the all-important issue. After declaring that no one could
+question the wisdom and rightfulness of the measures looking to protecting
+their herds from wild beasts, he continued:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>How is it, fellow-citizens, with you and me, and our wives and
+children? Have we any organisation on which we can rely for mutual
+protection? Is there any power in the country sufficient to protect us
+and all that we hold dear, from the worse than wild beasts that
+threaten and occasionally destroy our cattle? We have mutually and
+unitedly agreed to defend and protect our cattle and domestic animals;
+now, therefore, fellow-citizens, I submit and move the adoption of the
+two following resolutions, that we may have protection for our lives
+and persons, as well as our cattle and herds: <i>Resolved</i> that a
+committee be appointed to take into consideration the propriety of
+taking measures for the civil and military protection of this colony;
+<i>Resolved</i> that this committee consist of twelve persons.</p></div>
+
+<p>There spoke the true voice of the American state-builder, the voice of the
+Declaration of Independence and the Constitution. The resolutions were
+passed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> and the committee of twelve appointed, mainly Americans. The
+committee met at the Falls of the Willamette, which by that time was
+becoming known as Oregon City. Unable to arrive at a definite decision,
+the committee issued a call for a general meeting at Champoeg on May 2d.</p>
+
+<p>Pending the meeting, there was a general policy of opposition developed
+among the French Canadians in the interest of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company and
+England. This opposition threatened the overthrow of the entire plan. It
+was, however, checkmated in an interesting fashion. George W. Le Breton
+was one of the leading settlers and occupied a peculiar position. He was
+of French origin, from Baltimore to Oregon, and had been a Catholic. His
+existing affiliations were with the Americans. He was keen, facile, and
+well educated. He discovered that the Canadians had been drilled to vote
+&#8220;No&#8221; on all questions, irrespective of the bearing which such a vote might
+have on the leading issue. Le Breton accordingly proposed that measures be
+introduced upon which the Canadians ought to vote &#8220;Yes.&#8221; These tactics
+were carried out. The Canadians were confused thereby. Le Breton watched
+developments carefully and, becoming satisfied that he could command a
+majority, rose and exclaimed, &#8220;We can risk it, let us divide and count!&#8221;
+Gray shouted, &#8220;I second the motion!&#8221; Jo Meek, famous as one of the
+Mountain Men, stepped out of the crowd and said, &#8220;Who is for a divide? All
+in favour of an organisation, follow me!&#8221; The Americans speedily gathered
+behind the tall form of the erstwhile trapper. A count followed. It was a
+close vote. Fifty-two voted for, and fifty against. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> Americans would
+have been outvoted had it not been that Le Breton, with two French
+Canadians, Fran&ccedil;ois Matthieu and &Eacute;tienne Lucier, voted with them. The
+defeated Canadians withdrew, and the Indians, who lined the banks of the
+River to discover what strange proceedings the white men were engaged in,
+perceived from the loud shouts of triumph that the &#8220;Bostons&#8221; had won.
+Though the victory was gained by so scanty a margin, it was gained, and it
+was decisive. It was one of the most interesting events in the history of
+Oregon or the United States, for it illustrates most vividly the inborn
+capacity of the American for self-government.</p>
+
+<p>The new government went at once into effect. The constitution formulated
+by the committee and adopted by the meeting at Champoeg provided that the
+people of Oregon should adopt laws and regulations until the United States
+extended its jurisdiction over them. Freedom of worship, habeas corpus,
+trial by jury, proportionate representation, and the usual civil rights of
+Americans were guaranteed. Education should be encouraged, lands and
+property should not be taken from Indians without their consent. Slavery
+or involuntary servitude should not exist.</p>
+
+<p>The officers of government consisted of a legislative body of nine
+persons, an executive body of three, and a judiciary of a supreme judge
+and two justices of the peace, with a probate court and its justices, and
+a recorder and treasurer. Every white man of twenty-one years or more
+could vote. The laws of Iowa were designated to be followed in common
+practice. Marriage was allowed to males at sixteen and females at
+fourteen. One of the most important<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> provisions was the land law. This
+permitted any individual to claim a mile square, provided it be not on a
+town site or water-power, and that any mission claims already made be not
+affected, up to the limit of six miles square. This land law was framed
+upon the general conception of the proposed Linn bill already brought
+before Congress. The land law allowed land to be taken in any form, but
+since there was no existing survey, each man had to make his own survey.</p>
+
+<p>The first elected executive committee consisted of David Hill, Alanson
+Beers, and Joseph Gale. Within a year an amendment was made to the
+constitution providing for a governor. George Abernethy, a former member
+of the Methodist mission, was chosen to fill the place.</p>
+
+<p>Outer things were pretty crude in the little colony on the Willamette,
+though brains and energy were there in abundance. J. Quinn Thornton
+expressed himself as follows on the &#8220;Oregon State House,&#8221; which he says
+was in several respects different from that in which laws are made at
+Washington City:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The Oregon State House was built with posts set upright, one end set
+in the ground, grooved on two sides, and filled in with poles and
+split timber, such as would be suitable for fence rails, with plates
+and poles across the top. Rafters and horizontal poles, instead of
+iron ribs, held the cedar bark which was used instead of thick copper
+for roofing. It was twenty by forty feet and therefore did not cover
+three acres and a half. At one end some puncheons were put up for a
+platform for the president; some poles and slabs were placed around
+for seats; three planks, about a foot wide and twelve feet long,
+placed upon a sort of stake platform for a table, were all that was
+believed necessary for the use of the legislative committee and the
+clerks.</p></div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span>There are several facts in connection with the inauguration of this
+Provisional Government of Oregon which are almost equal to itself in
+interest. One of these is that Peter H. Burnett, a lawyer and the most
+notable member of the emigration of 1843, rendered the opinion that, by
+the spirit of American institutions, the Provisional Government might be
+regarded as possessing valid authority. Going in a few years to
+California, Mr. Burnett incorporated the same principles into the
+government of that State and became its first governor.</p>
+
+<p>Another most significant fact was the attitude of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay
+Company. That great organisation was of course opposed to American
+ownership and to the Provisional Government. At first, the management
+under Sir James Douglas (Dr. McLoughlin had been superseded by Douglas
+because of his supposed leaning toward the Americans) affected to ignore
+the government framed at Champoeg, declaring loftily that the company
+could protect itself. Dr. McLoughlin, in his very interesting account of
+this, says that the Americans adopted in 1845 a provision in the
+constitution that no one should be called to do any act contrary to his
+allegiance. This provision struck him as designed to enable British
+subjects to join the organisation. Dr. McLoughlin was so pleased with the
+wise and liberal spirit which this evinced that he prevailed on Douglas to
+join the Provisional Government. The family was now complete. The American
+farmers and immigrants and missionaries had triumphed over the autocratic
+government of the great fur company. The American idea&mdash;government of the
+people, by the people, and for the people&mdash;was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> vindicated. The local
+battle was won for the Yankee.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving this great epoch of the history of the River, it will
+interest the reader to know that Dr. McLoughlin, so conspicuous in the
+story thus far, removed to Oregon City, and became an avowed American
+citizen, living on the claim on which he filed at the Falls. Much trouble
+subsequently arose between him and the Methodist mission people
+represented by Rev. A. F. Waller. Harder yet, Congress was led by Delegate
+Thurston of Oregon, to exclude him from the benefit of the Donation Land
+Law. The final result was that the great-hearted ex-king of the Columbia
+lost the most of his claim on the ground that he was an alien at the time
+of taking it. The Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company directors chose to disapprove his
+acts in bestowing provisions upon the weary and hungry and ragged American
+immigrants, and they charged him personally with the cost. This, in
+addition to the loss of his claim, rendered him almost penniless and sadly
+embittered his old age. He said that he supposed he was becoming an
+American, but found that he was neither American nor British, but was
+without a country. It is pleasant to be able to record the fact that the
+Oregon Legislature restored his land in so far as the State controlled it,
+but this was only just before his death.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the brave and big-souled men who bore their part in redeeming
+Oregon and the Columbia from the wilderness, John McLoughlin has stood at
+the head of the column, side by side with Marcus Whitman, the American
+physician and missionary. Though identified at first with rival interests
+and conflicting aims, McLoughlin and Whitman had many traits in common,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span>
+and the story of their lives and life-work in Oregon should be written in
+one chapter. No one that ever knew or sympathised with Oregon history has
+failed to give his meed of praise to both Whitman and McLoughlin. No one
+ever stood on the hill at Waiilatpu and viewed the mission home of Whitman
+in the fertile vale of the Walla Walla, the scene of martyrdom and
+anguish, without joining it in mind with the expanse of the Columbia at
+Vancouver and recalling &#8220;Old Whitehead,&#8221; and his large-minded and humane
+lordship for twenty years of the land of the Oregon. Nor can one withhold
+the thrill of indignation at the cold-blooded commercialism of the
+Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company, and at the petty ingratitude of some Americans,
+which together brought darkness to the old hero&#8217;s last days.</p>
+
+<p>But though American Democracy was winning a bloodless triumph on the
+Columbia, it seemed by no means certain that American diplomacy would win
+on the Potomac. Webster, as Secretary of State under Harrison and during
+part of Tyler&#8217;s administration, represented the conservative councils of
+the New England seaboard, and was inclined to yield to England in respect
+to the Oregon boundary.</p>
+
+<p>Senator Linn of Missouri was the most steadfast friend of American
+occupancy. He was the one to frame land bills to encourage American
+immigration, and in his hands the memorials of the settlers on the
+Columbia had been placed. But in 1843, he died, with his work undone.
+Benton, his colleague, had meanwhile become fully as pronounced, and he
+pursued the same policy with uncompromising and volcanic energy.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span>But a curious and anomalistic alignment of interests and parties now
+arose. The Oregon question became entangled with those of Texas and
+slavery. Calhoun became Tyler&#8217;s Secretary of State upon Webster&#8217;s
+resignation. While the Democrats in general were more inclined to western
+expansion than the Whigs, yet the slaveholders of the South were much more
+interested in Texas than in Oregon. The Provisional Government of Oregon
+had prohibited slavery. Calhoun was ready to fight Mexico for the
+possession of Texas, but he did not want to fight England for possession
+of Oregon. Nevertheless, he did not dare to offend the West by a square
+back-down on Oregon. He therefore adopted a policy of &#8220;masterly
+inactivity.&#8221; He believed that if war arose with England, we would lose
+&#8220;every inch of Oregon,&#8221; for England could hurry a fleet to the Columbia
+River from China in six weeks, whereas American ships would have to double
+Cape Horn, and an American army would have to cross the continent under
+every disadvantage of transportation. But time, he believed, would win all
+for the Americans.</p>
+
+<p>In this conception, Von Holst thinks Calhoun was wise. Roosevelt in his
+<i>Life of Benton</i>, thinks that the war, if there had been war, would have
+been fought out in Canada, and that, while Calhoun was not wrong in
+desiring delay, he should never have abated one jot in demanding all of
+Oregon up to 54 degrees 40 minutes.</p>
+
+<p>The Democratic platform on which Polk was elected President, demanded &#8220;54
+degrees 40 minutes,&#8221; and, in popular clamour, the words, &#8220;or fight,&#8221; were
+added. Oregon, Texas, and slavery were practically<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> the issues on which
+Polk was elected. His inaugural address declared our title to Oregon to be
+&#8220;clear and unquestionable.&#8221; Great excitement ensued, for if Congress stood
+by the President, war was almost inevitable, unless England yielded. To
+the surprise of the world, however, James Buchanan, the yielding, not to
+say shifty, Secretary of State under the new administration, now announced
+the willingness of our Government to compromise on the line of 49 degrees.
+But here another complication ensued. Pakenham, the British envoy,
+declined, in almost insulting terms, to accept 49 degrees. Polk thereupon
+withdrew the proposition and in his next message stated that &#8220;no
+compromise which the United States ought to accept can be effected.&#8221; At
+the same time he advised the cancellation of the Joint Occupation Treaty.
+It seemed now that the conflict between the nations for the possession of
+the River would surely eventuate in war. Senator Cass of Michigan fanned
+the flame by a speech declaring that &#8220;War is almost upon us.&#8221; The
+committees on Foreign Relations in both House and Senate proposed
+resolutions to notify England at once of the close of the Joint Occupation
+Treaty. Excitement rose to fierce heat, and the standing of marine risks
+and commercial ventures at once showed the popular sentiment. &#8220;Fifty-four,
+forty, or fight!&#8221; was the spirit of Congress.</p>
+
+<p>But now Calhoun found himself betwixt the devil and the deep sea. He did
+not really wish to get all of Oregon, for fear of the effect on slavery.
+Yet he dared not throw cold water on the tremendous spirits of patriotism
+and ambition in the West demanding Oregon. A compromise was the only
+recourse.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> Powerful men of the &#8220;Moderates&#8221; in both England and the United
+States brought their influence to bear. Calhoun caused Lord Aberdeen,
+Foreign Secretary of England, to understand that the President would again
+take up the line of 49 degrees. Lord Aberdeen directed Pakenham to revive
+the negotiations which had been somewhat rudely broken off. The Senate
+reconsidered the situation more calmly and opened the way to a new treaty.
+This was consummated and signed by President Polk on June 15, 1846, and
+confirmed by the Senate on June 19th. The line of 49 degrees was accepted.
+The Great River was divided by that line nearly equally between the two
+nations, there being about seven hundred and fifty miles in American
+territory and six hundred and fifty in British.</p>
+
+<p>The decision of the ownership of the River was one of the most momentous
+in American history. If we had not got Oregon, we probably would not have
+got California. And without the Pacific Coast, the history of the Great
+Republic would be essentially different, and the history of the world
+would be essentially different.</p>
+
+<p>The Oregon Question owed much of its interest to its very complicated
+nature. It was at first a question between the governments of five
+different nations, England, France, Russia, Spain, and the United States.
+In time it became a question between England and the United States. Then
+it was a question between Oregon immigrants and British Fur Company. Then
+it became a question between slavery and freedom. This was still further
+complicated by the fact that it was also a question between<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> West, East,
+and South. Different factions of different parties still further
+complicated it. It was in truth a manifold question, and in its final
+solution we read some of the most vital of American traits and movements.
+Out of it all the settlers of the River may justly be said to have emerged
+with highest credit. The American home-builder, the great Democracy of the
+West, the inborn impulse to expand and to nationalise,&mdash;these were the
+essential factors in the triumph. The settlers on the Willamette, the
+constitution-makers of Champoeg, the immigrants and the missionaries, had
+already gained the day before diplomacy took it up.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h3>
+<p class="chapter">The Times of Tomahawk and Fire-Brand</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Extent of Indian Troubles in the Region of the Columbia&mdash;Destruction
+of the <i>Tonquin</i>&mdash;Conflicting Policies of the British and the
+Americans in Regard to the Fur-trade&mdash;Advances in Settlement by
+Americans, and Indian Opposition&mdash;The Whitman Mission and its
+Relations to the Indians, and to the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company&mdash;The
+Pestilence of 1847&mdash;The Whitman Massacre&mdash;Mr. Osborne&#8217;s
+Reminiscences&mdash;Saving of the Lapwai and Tshimakain Missions&mdash;The
+Cayuse War&mdash;Great War of 1855-56&mdash;Kamiakin and Peupeumoxmox&mdash;Governor
+I. I. Stevens of Washington Territory and his Efforts to Make
+Treaties&mdash;The Walla Walla Council and the Division among the
+Indians&mdash;Pearson and his Ride&mdash;Outburst of Hostilities and the
+Destruction that Followed&mdash;Conflict between the Regulars and the
+Volunteers&mdash;Battles of Walla Walla, Cascades, and Grande Ronde&mdash;Second
+Walla Walla Council&mdash;An Unsatisfactory Peace&mdash;Continued Incoming of
+Prospectors and Land-seekers&mdash;Third Indian War&mdash;Disastrous Steptoe
+Campaign&mdash;Garnett&#8217;s Campaign in the Yakima&mdash;Wright&#8217;s Campaign to
+Spokane and Overthrow of Indian Power&mdash;Peace Proclaimed and the
+Country Thrown Open to Settlement&mdash;Nez Perc&eacute; War of
+1877&mdash;Hallakallakeen, or Joseph, the Indian Warchief&mdash;His Melancholy
+Fate&mdash;The Bannock War.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">Columbia River</span> history has had its full share of Indian wars. To narrate
+these in full would transcend the limits of this chapter. Even during the
+era of discovery desperate affrays with the natives were a common
+experience of explorers. Captain Gray of the <i>Columbia</i> lost a boat&#8217;s crew
+of seamen at Tillamook. The ship <i>Boston</i> was seized in 1803 by the wily
+old chief Maquinna at Nootka.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span>In 1812 the <i>Tonquin</i>, the first vessel of the Pacific Fur Company, in
+command of Captain Thorn, was captured at some point to the north of the
+Columbia River, variously known as Eyuck Whoola on Newcetu Bay, or Newity
+Bay, or Newcetee. She was, as a result of the capture, blown up by the
+explosion of her own powder magazine. Gabriel Franch&egrave;re and Alexander
+Ross, of the Astoria party, are the original authorities for this dramatic
+story. Irving has made the event a leading feature of his charming
+<i>Astoria</i>. H. H. Bancroft has discussed it at length in his history of the
+Pacific Coast. In recent years Major H. M. Chittenden in his valuable
+book, <i>History of the American Fur Trade</i>, presents new testimony of much
+interest. But whatever discrepencies existed in the records, the general
+truth remains that the ship and all her crew, with the exception of one
+Indian, disappeared, and great was the loss to the traders at Astoria as a
+result.</p>
+
+<p>For more than three decades after the destruction of the <i>Tonquin</i> there
+were no serious Indian conflicts. The Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company carried out
+consistently the general policy of harmony with the natives. Most of the
+employees were of French Canadian origin, and, with their general
+sociability, they were more popular with the Indians than the Americans
+usually have been. But with the incoming of American missionaries,
+trappers, explorers, and immigrants, the situation changed. Conflicts of
+interests, ambitions, and national aims led both Americans and British to
+be somewhat more ready to encourage the hostile and suspicious disposition
+of the natives. Chiefly, however, the cause of the changing attitude of
+the natives<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> must be attributed to the perception by the more intelligent
+of the fact that the actual occupation of the country by white farmers,
+home builders, and land owners, meant their own destruction. Though this
+truth dawned on them only vaguely and gradually, they had begun to be
+somewhat familiar with it by the decade of the thirties.</p>
+
+<p>The founding of American missions during that decade, as narrated earlier,
+at Chemeketa, Walla Walla, Lapwai, and Tshimakain, and, during the years
+following, the obvious intent of the Americans to draw immigration to the
+country, prepared the way for the first and perhaps the most ferocious,
+though by no means the greatest, of the four principal wars which we plan
+to consider. This first one was the war connected with the Whitman
+massacre.</p>
+
+<p>We have already described the founding of the Whitman Mission at
+Waiilatpu, six miles from the present site of Walla Walla, and twenty-six
+miles from the Hudson&#8217;s Bay fort on the Columbia, known as Fort Walla
+Walla. We have also told of Whitman&#8217;s journey across the continent in the
+mid-winter of 1842-43, of his efforts to secure the attention of Congress
+and of the Executive to the importance of the Oregon country, and of his
+return to Walla Walla in 1843, with the first large immigration of
+American settlers.</p>
+
+<p>After the incoming of this immigration, it became more than ever clear to
+the more intelligent Indians that this movement of settlers portended a
+change in their whole condition. Their wild life could not co-exist with
+farming, houses, and the fixed and narrowed limits of the white man&#8217;s
+life. Moreover, since<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> they saw the antagonism between the Americans and
+the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company, and since the latter was obviously more
+favourable to perpetuating the life of the wilderness, the natives were
+naturally drawn into sympathy with the latter. Still further, since the
+Americans were Protestants and naturally affiliated with the Whitman
+Mission and its associated missions, and since the Hudson&#8217;s Bay people
+were mainly Catholics and interested in maintaining the missionary methods
+adapted to the r&eacute;gime of the fur-traders, there became injected into the
+situation the dangerous element of religious jealousy.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Whitman perceived that he was standing on the edge of a powder
+magazine, and, during the summer of 1847, he arranged to acquire the
+mission property of the Methodists at The Dalles, a hundred and sixty
+miles down the River, intending to remove thither in the spring. But
+meanwhile, the explosives being all ready, the spark was prepared for
+igniting them.</p>
+
+<p>During the summer of 1847 measles became epidemic among the Indians. Their
+method of treating any disease of which fever was a part was to enter a
+pit into which hot rocks had been thrown, then casting water on the rocks,
+to create a dense vapour, in which, stripped of clothing, they would
+remain until thoroughly steamed. Thence issuing, stark naked and dripping
+with perspiration, they would plunge into an icy cold stream. Death was
+the almost inevitable result in case of measles. Whitman, who was, it
+should be remembered, a physician, not a clergyman, was skilful and
+devoted in his attentions, yet many died. Now just at that time a
+renegade<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> half-breed known as Jo Lewis seems to have become possessed with
+the diabolical mania of massacre. He made the Indians think that Whitman
+was poisoning them. Istickus or Sticcus, a Umatilla Indian and a warm
+friend of Whitman, had formed some impression of the plot and suggested
+the danger. Whitman&#8217;s intrepid spirit laughed at this, but Mrs. Whitman,
+though equally intrepid, seems to have felt some premonition of the swift
+coming doom, for the mission children found her in tears for the first
+time since the death of her beloved little girl eight years before. The
+Doctor tried to soothe her by declaring that he would arrange to go down
+the River at once. But on that very day, November 28, 1847, the
+picturesque little hill rising a hundred feet above the mission ground,
+now surmounted by the granite shaft of the Whitman monument, was observed
+to be black with Indians. It was evident from various sinister aspects
+that something was impending.</p>
+
+<p>On the next day, November 29th, at about one o&#8217;clock, while Dr. Whitman
+sat reading, a number of Indians entered the room. Having gained his
+attention by the usual request for medicines, one of them, afterwards said
+by some to have been Tamahas, and by others have been Tamsaky, rushed
+suddenly upon the Doctor and struck his head with a tomahawk. Another
+wretch named Telaukait, to whom the Doctor had been the kindest friend,
+then cut and hacked the noble face of the philanthropist. The work of
+murder thus inaugurated went on with savage energy. The men about the
+mission were speedily slain, with the exception of a few who were in
+remote places and managed by special fortune to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> elude observation. Mrs.
+Whitman, bravely coming forward to succour her dying husband, was shot in
+the breast and sank to the floor. She did not die at once, and it is said
+by some of the survivors, then children, that she lingered some time,
+being heard to murmur most tender prayers for her parents and children.
+Mrs. Whitman was the only woman killed. The other women and girls were
+cruelly outraged and held in captivity for several days.</p>
+
+<p>William McBean was at that time in charge of the fort at Walla Walla, and
+with a strange disregard of humane feelings, he shut the door of the fort
+in the face of one of the escaped Americans, and a little later served the
+Osborne family in the same manner. McBean sent a courier down the River to
+convey the tidings to Vancouver, but this courier did not even stop at The
+Dalles to warn the people, though they were not attacked. James Douglas
+was then chief factor at Vancouver, as successor to Dr. McLoughlin. As
+soon as he was apprised of the massacre, he sent Peter Skeen Ogden with a
+force to rescue the survivors. Ogden acted with promptness and efficiency,
+and by the use of several hundred dollars&#8217; worth of commodities ransomed
+forty-seven women and children. Thirteen persons had been murdered.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most distressing experiences was that of the Osborne family. Of
+this Mr. Osborne says:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>As the guns fired and the yells commenced I leaned my head upon the
+bed and committed myself and family to my Maker. My wife removed the
+loose floor. I dropped under the floor with my sick family in their
+night clothes, taking only two woollen sheets, a piece of bread, and
+some cold mush, and pulled the floor over us. In five minutes the room
+was full of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> Indians, but they did not discover us. The roar of guns,
+the yells of the savages, and the crash of clubs and knives and the
+groans of the dying continued till dark. We distinctly heard the dying
+groans of Mrs. Whitman, Mr. Rogers, and Francis, till they died away
+one after the other. We heard the last words of Mr. Rogers in a slow
+voice calling &#8220;Come, Lord Jesus, come quickly.&#8221; Soon after this I
+removed the floor and we went out. We saw the white face of Francis by
+the door. It was warm as we laid our hand upon it, but he was dead. I
+carried my two youngest children, who were sick, and my wife held on
+to my clothes in her great weakness. We had all been sick with
+measles. Two infants had died. She had not left her bed in six weeks
+till that day, when she stood up a few minutes. The naked, painted
+Indians were dancing the scalp dance around a large fire at a little
+distance. There seemed no hope for us and we knew not which way to go,
+but bent our steps toward Fort Walla Walla. A dense cold fog shut out
+every star and the darkness was complete. We could see no trail and
+not even the hand before the face. We had to feel out the trail with
+our feet. My wife almost fainted but staggered along. Mill Creek,
+which we had to wade, was high with late rains and came up to the
+waist. My wife in her great weakness came nigh washing down, but held
+to my clothes. I braced myself with a stick, holding a child in one
+arm. I had to cross five times for the children. The water was icy
+cold and the air freezing some. Staggering along about two miles, Mrs.
+Osborne fainted and could go no farther, and we hid ourselves in the
+brush of the Walla Walla River, not far below Tamsukey&#8217;s (a chief)
+lodges, who was very active at the commencement of the butchery. We
+were thoroughly wet, and the cold fog like snow was about us. The cold
+mud was partially frozen as we crawled, feeling our way, into the dark
+brush. We could see nothing, the darkness was so extreme. I spread one
+wet sheet down on the frozen ground; wife and children crouched upon
+it. I covered the other over them. I thought they must soon perish as
+they were shaking and their teeth rattling with cold. I kneeled down
+and commended us to my Maker. The day finally dawned and we could see
+the Indians riding furiously up and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> down the trail. Sometimes they
+would come close to the brush and our blood would warm and the shaking
+would stop from fear for a moment. The day seemed a week. Expected
+every moment my wife would breathe her last. Tuesday night, felt our
+way to the trail and staggered along to Sutucksnina (Dog Creek), which
+we waded as we did the other creek, and kept on about two miles when
+my wife fainted and could go no farther. Crawled into the brush and
+frozen mud to shake and suffer on from hunger and cold, and without
+sleep. The children, too, wet and cold, called incessantly for food,
+but the shock of groans and yells at first so frightened them that
+they did not speak loud. Wednesday night my wife was too weak to
+stand. I took our second child and started for Walla Walla; had to
+wade the Touchet; stopped frequently in the brush from weakness; had
+not recovered from measles. Heard a horseman pass and repass as I lay
+concealed in the willows. Have since learned that it was Mr. Spalding.
+Reached Fort Walla Walla after daylight; begged Mr. McBean for horses
+to get my family, for food, for blankets, and clothing to take to
+them, and to take care of my child till I could bring my family in,
+should I live to find them alive. Mr. McBean told me I could not bring
+my family to his fort.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Hall came in on Monday night, but he could not have an American in
+his fort, and he had put him over the Columbia River; that he could
+not let me have horses or anything for my wife and children, and I
+must go to Umatilla. I insisted on bringing my family to the fort, but
+he refused; said he would not let us in. I next begged the priests to
+show pity, as my wife and children must perish and the Indians
+undoubtedly would kill me, with no success. I then begged to leave my
+child who was not safe in the fort, but they refused.</p>
+
+<p>There were many priests in the fort. Mr. McBean gave me breakfast, but
+I saved most of it for my family. Providentially Mr. Stanley, an
+artist, came in from Colville, narrowly escaped the Cayuse Indians by
+telling them he was &#8220;Alain&#8221; H. B. He let me have his two horses, some
+food he had left from Rev. Eells and Walker&#8217;s mission; also a cap, a
+pair of socks, a shirt, and handkerchief, and Mr. McBean <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>furnished an
+Indian who proved most faithful, and Thursday night we started back,
+taking my child, but with a sad heart that I could not find mercy at
+the hands of the priests of God. The Indian guided me in the thick
+darkness to where I supposed I had left my dear wife and children. We
+could see nothing and dared not call aloud. Daylight came and I was
+exposed to Indians, but we continued to search till I was about to
+give up in despair when the Indian discovered one of the twigs I had
+broken as a guide in coming out to the trail. Following these he soon
+found my wife and children still alive. I distributed what little food
+and clothing I had, and we started for the Umatilla, the guide leading
+the way to a ford.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. McBean came and asked who was there. I replied. He said he could
+not let us in; we must go to Umatilla or he would put us over the
+river, as he had Mr. Hall. My wife replied she would die at the gate
+but she would not leave. He finally opened and took us into a secret
+room and sent an allowance of food for us every day. Next day I asked
+him for blankets for my sick wife to lie on. He had nothing. Next day
+I urged again. He had nothing to give, but would sell a blanket out of
+the store. I told him I had lost everything, and had nothing to pay;
+but if I should live to get to the Willamette I would pay. He
+consented. But the hip-bones of my dear wife wore through the skin on
+the hard floor. Stickus, the chief, came in one day and took the cap
+from his head and gave it to me, and a handkerchief to my child.</p></div>
+
+<p>The Whitman massacre was a prelude to the Cayuse War. It should be
+remembered that, the year before the massacre, the Oregon country had, by
+treaty with Great Britain, become the property of the United States. No
+regular government had yet been inaugurated, but the Provisional
+Government already instituted by the Americans met on December 9th and
+provided for sending fourteen companies of volunteers to the Walla Walla.
+These were <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span>immigrants who had come to seek homes and their section of
+land, and it was a great sacrifice for them to leave their families and
+start in mid-winter for the upper Columbia. But they bravely and
+cheerfully obeyed the call of duty and set forth, furnishing mainly their
+own equipment, without a thought of pecuniary gain or even reimbursement.
+Cornelius Gilliam, an immigrant of 1845 from Missouri, was chosen colonel
+of the regiment. He was a man of great energy and courage, and though not
+a professional soldier,&mdash;none of them were,&mdash;had the frontier American&#8217;s
+capacity for warfare. The command pushed rapidly forward, their way being
+disputed at various points. At Sand Hollows the Indians, led by Five Crows
+and War Eagle, made an especially tenacious attempt to prevent the
+crossing of the Umatilla River. Five Crows claimed to have wizard powers
+by which he could stop all bullets, and War Eagle declared that he could
+swallow all balls fired at him. But at the first onset the wizard was so
+badly wounded that he had to retire and &#8220;Swallow Ball&#8221; was killed. Tom
+McKay had levelled his rifle and said, &#8220;Let him swallow this.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img12.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Grave of Marcus Whitman and his Associate Martyrs at Waiilatpu.<br />Photo. by W. D. Chapman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The way was now clear to Waiilatpu, which the command reached on March
+4th. The mangled remains of the victims of the massacre had been hastily
+interred by the Ogden party, but coyotes had partially exhumed them. The
+remains were brought together by the volunteers and reverently, though
+rudely, buried at a point near the mission, a place where a marble crypt
+now encloses the commingled bones of the martyrs. A lock of long, fair
+hair was found near the ruined mission ground which was thought surely to
+be from the head of Mrs. Whitman. It was preserved<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> by one of the
+volunteers and is now one of the precious relics in the historical museum
+of Whitman College.</p>
+
+<p>The Cayuse War dragged along in a desultory fashion for nearly three
+years. The refusal of the Nez Perc&eacute;s and Spokanes and the indifference of
+the Yakimas to join the Cayuses made their cause hopeless, though there
+were several fierce fights with them and much severe campaigning. In 1850
+a band of friendly Umatilla Indians undertook to capture the chief band of
+the Cayuses under Tamsaky, which had taken a strong position about the
+head waters of the John Day River. After a savage battle Tamsaky was
+killed and most of the warriors captured. Of these, five, charged with the
+leading part in the Whitman massacre, were hanged at Oregon City on June
+3, 1850. It remains a question to this day, however, whether the victims
+of the gallows were really the guilty ones. The Cayuse Indians were quite
+firm in their assertion that Tamahas, who, by one version, struck Dr.
+Whitman the first blow, was the only one of the five concerned in the
+murder.</p>
+
+<p>Thus ended the first principal war in the Columbia Basin. It was quickly
+followed by another, which was so extensive that it may be well called
+universal. This was the War of 1855-56. This was the greatest Indian war
+in the entire history of the Columbia River.</p>
+
+<p>As we have seen, the American home-builders had outmatched the English
+fur-traders in the struggle for possession. On the 3d of March, 1853,
+Washington Territory, embracing the present States of Washington and
+Idaho, with parts of Wyoming and Montana, was created by Act of Congress,
+and Isaac<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> I. Stevens was appointed governor. This remarkable man entered
+with tremendous energy upon his task of organising the chaos of his great
+domain. The Indian problem was obviously the most dangerous and pressing
+one. There were at that time two remarkable chiefs of the mid-Columbia
+region, natural successors of Philip, Pontiac, Black Hawk, and Tecumseh,
+possessing those Indian traits of mingled nobleness and treachery which
+have made the best specimens of the race such interesting objects of
+study. These Indians were Kamiakin of the Yakimas, and Peupeumoxmox of the
+Walla Wallas.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img13.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Cayuse Babies 1.<br />(Copyright by Lee Moorehouse, 1898.)</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img14.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Cayuse Babies 2.<br />(Copyright by Lee Moorehouse, 1898.)</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>In 1855 the great war broke out almost simultaneously at different points.
+There were six widely scattered regions especially concerned. Four of
+these, the Cascades, the Yakima Valley, the Walla Walla, and the Grande
+Ronde, were on or adjacent to the River. The others were the Rogue River
+region and Puget Sound. So wide was the area of this war that intelligent
+co-operation among the Indians proved impracticable. This, in fact, was
+the thing that saved the whites. For there were probably not less than
+four thousand Indians on the war-path, and if they had co-operated, the
+smaller settlements, possibly all in the country except those in the
+Willamette Valley, might have been annihilated.</p>
+
+<p>The first efforts of Governor Stevens were to secure treaties with the
+Indians. Having negotiated several treaties in 1854 with the Puget Sound
+Indians, the governor passed over the Cascade Mountains to Walla Walla in
+May, 1855. There during the latter part of May and first part of June, he
+held a great council with representatives of seventeen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> tribes. Lieutenant
+Kip, U. S. A., has preserved a vivid account of this great gathering, one
+of the most important ever held in the annals of Indian history. According
+to Lieutenant Kip, there were but about fifty men in the escort of the
+daring governor, and if he had been a man sensible to fear he might well
+have been startled when there came an army of twenty-five hundred Nez
+Perc&eacute;s under Halhaltlossot, known as Lawyer by the whites. Two days later
+three hundred Cayuses, those worst of the Columbia River Indians, surly
+and scowling, led by Five Crows and Young Chief, made their appearance.
+Two days later a force of two thousand Yakimas, Umatillas, and Walla
+Wallas came in sight under Kamiakin and Peupeumoxmox. The council was soon
+organised. Governor Stevens and General Palmer, the latter the Indian
+Agent for Oregon, set forth their plan of reservations, all their speeches
+being translated and retranslated until they had filtered down among the
+general mass of the Indians. Then there must be a great &#8220;wawa,&#8221; or
+discussion by the Indians. It soon became apparent that there were two
+bitterly contesting parties. One was a large faction of Nez Perc&eacute;s led by
+Lawyer, who favoured the whites. The other faction of the Nez Perc&eacute;s, with
+all the remaining tribes, were set against any treaty. With remarkable
+skill and patience, Governor Stevens, with the powerful assistance of
+Lawyer, had brought the Indians to a point of general agreement to the
+creation of a system of reservations. But suddenly there was a commotion.
+Into the midst of the council there burst the old chief Looking Glass
+(Apashwahayikt), second only to Lawyer in influence among<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> the Nez Perc&eacute;s.
+He had made a desperate ride of three hundred miles in seven days,
+following a buffalo hunt and a raid against the Blackfeet, and as he now
+burst into the midst, there dangled from his belt the scalps of several
+slaughtered Blackfeet. As quoted in Hazard Stevens&#8217;s <i>Life of Governor
+Stevens</i>, he began his harangue thus: &#8220;My people, what have you done?
+While I was gone you sold my country. I have come home and there is not
+left me a place on which to pitch my lodge. Go home to your lodges. I will
+talk with you.&#8221; Lieutenant Kip declares that though he could understand
+nothing of the speech of Looking Glass to his own tribe, which followed,
+the effect was tremendous. All the evidence showed that Looking Glass was
+a veritable Demosthenes. The work of Governor Stevens was all undone.</p>
+
+<p>But later the Governor and Lawyer succeeded in rallying their forces and
+gaining the acquiescence of the Indians to the setting aside of three
+great reservations, one on the Umatilla, one on the Yakima, and the third
+on the Clearwater and the Snake. These reservations still exist, imperial
+domains in themselves, though now divided into individual allotments. The
+acquiescence of the Indians in this treaty, as the sequel proved, was
+feigned by a number of them, but for the time it seemed a great triumph
+for Governor Stevens. From Walla Walla the Governor departed to the
+C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene, the Pend Oreille, and the Missoula regions to continue
+his arduous task of negotiating treaties.</p>
+
+<p>This great Walla Walla Council cannot be dismissed without brief reference
+to an event, not fully known at the time, but which subsequent
+investigation<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> made clear, and stamped as one of the most dramatic in the
+entire history of Indian warfare. This event was the conspiracy of the
+Cayuses and Yakimas to kill Governor Stevens and his entire band, and then
+exterminate the whites throughout the country. While the acceptance of the
+treaty was still pending, Kamiakin and Peupeumoxmox were framing the
+details of this wide-reaching plot, which was indeed but the culmination
+of their great scheme of years. Kamiahkin was the soul of the conspiracy.
+He was a remarkable Indian. He was of superb stature, and proportions,
+over six feet high, sinewy and active. Governor Stevens said of him: &#8220;He
+is a peculiar man, reminding me of the panther and the grizzly bear. His
+countenance has an extraordinary play, one moment in frowns, the next in
+smiles, flashing with light and black as Erebus the same instant. His
+pantomime is great, and his gesticulation much and characteristic. He
+talks mostly in his face and with his hands and arms.&#8221; He was withal a
+typical Indian in treachery and secretiveness. Peupeumoxmox was similar in
+nature, but was older and less capable.</p>
+
+<p>Exactly opposite to these was Halhaltlossot, or Lawyer, the Solon of the
+Nez Perc&eacute;s. Lawyer became convinced of the existence of this conspiracy
+and went by night to the camp of Governor Stevens and revealed it. He
+concluded his revelation by saying: &#8220;I will come with my family and pitch
+my lodge in the midst of your camp, that those Cayuses may see that you
+and your party are under the protection of the head chief of the Nez
+Perc&eacute;s.&#8221; When it became clear to the conspiring Cayuses and Yakimas<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> that
+Lawyer&#8217;s powerful division of the Nez Perc&eacute;s was sustaining the little
+band of whites, they did not execute their design. Lawyer and his Nez
+Perc&eacute;s saved the day for the whites.</p>
+
+<p>And yet the sequel is one of the most lamentable examples of the
+miscarriage of justice in Indian affairs that we have any record of. The
+friendly Nez Perc&eacute;s saved the whites. The unfriendly faction of the Nez
+Perc&eacute;s, led by Joseph and Looking Glass, finally yielded and accepted the
+treaty. But they did this with certain expectations in regard to their
+reservation. This was set forth to the author by William McBean, a
+half-breed Indian, son of the McBean who was the commandant of the
+Hudson&#8217;s Bay post at Wallula. McBean the younger was a boy at the time of
+the council at Walla Walla. He was familiar with all the Indian languages
+spoken at the council and in appearance was so much of an Indian that he
+could pass unquestioned anywhere. Governor Stevens asked him to spy out
+the situation and learn what the Nez Perc&eacute;s were going to decide. The
+result of his investigations was to show that the whole decision hinged on
+the understanding by Joseph&#8217;s faction that, if they acquiesced in the
+treaty and turned their support to the whites, they might retain perpetual
+possession of the Wallowa country in North-eastern Oregon as their special
+allotment. Becoming finally satisfied that this would be granted them,
+they yielded to the Lawyer faction and thus the entire Nez Perc&eacute; tribe
+made common cause with the whites, rendering the execution of the great
+plot of Kamiakin and Peupeumoxmox a foredoomed failure. But now for the
+sequel. Though it was thus clear in the minds of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> Joseph and his division
+of the Nez Perc&eacute;s that the loved Wallowa (one of the fairest regions that
+ever the sun shone on and a perfect land for Indians) was to be their
+permanent home, yet the stipulation, if indeed it were intended by
+Governor Stevens, never became definitely set down in the &#8220;Great Father&#8217;s&#8221;
+records at Washington. The result was that when, twenty years later, the
+manifold attractions of the Wallowa country began to draw white
+immigration, the Indians, now under Young Joseph, son of the former chief,
+stood by their supposed rights and the great Nez Perc&eacute; War of 1877 ensued.</p>
+
+<p>And now, to resume the thread of our discourse, we may note that Governor
+Stevens proceeded on his laborious mission to the Flatheads in the region
+of the C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene and Pend Oreille lakes in what is now Northern
+Idaho. After protracted and at times excited discussion, a treaty was
+accepted by which an immense tract of a million and a quarter acres was
+set apart for a reservation. From Pend Oreille, Governor Stevens with his
+little force, now reduced to twenty-two, crossed the Rockies to Fort
+Benton.</p>
+
+<p>But what was happening on the Walla Walla? No sooner was the governor
+fairly out of sight across the flower-bespangled plains which extended two
+hundred miles north-east from Walla Walla, than the wily Kamiakin began to
+resume his plots. So successful was he, with the valuable assistance of
+Peupeumoxmox, Young Chief, and Five Crows, that the treaties, just
+ratified, were torn to shreds, and the flame of savage warfare burst forth
+across the entire Columbia Valley.</p>
+
+<p>Hazard Stevens, in his invaluable history of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> father, gives a vivid
+picture of how the news reached them in their camp thirty-five miles up
+the Missouri from Fort Benton. Summer had now passed into autumn. A
+favourable treaty had been made with the Blackfeet. On October 29th, the
+little party were gathered around their campfire in the frosty air of fall
+in that high latitude, when they discerned a solitary rider making his way
+slowly toward them. As he drew near they soon saw that it was Pearson, the
+express rider. Pearson was one of the best examples of those scouts whose
+lives were spent in conveying messages from forts to parties in the field.
+He usually travelled alone, and his life was always in his hand. He seemed
+to be made of steel springs, and it had been thought that he could endure
+anything. &#8220;He could ride anything that wore hair.&#8221; He rode seventeen
+hundred and fifty miles in twenty-eight days at one time, one stage of two
+hundred and sixty miles having been made in three days. But as he slowly
+drew up to the party in the cold evening light, it was seen that even
+Pearson was &#8220;done.&#8221; His horse staggered and fell, and he himself could not
+stand or speak for some time. After he had been revived he told his story,
+and a story of disaster and foreboding it was, sure enough.</p>
+
+<p>All the great tribes of the Columbia plains west of the Nez Perc&eacute;s had
+broken out, the Cayuses, Yakimas, Palouses, Walla Wallas, Umatillas, and
+Klickitats. They had swept the country clean of whites. The ride of
+Pearson from The Dalles to the point where he reached Governor Stevens is
+one of the most thrilling in the annals of the River. By riding all day
+and night, he reached a horse ranch on the Umatilla belonging<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> to a noted
+half-breed Indian, William McKay, but he found the place deserted. Seeing
+a splendid horse in the bunch near by, he lassoed and saddled him. Though
+the horse was as wild as air, Pearson managed to mount and start on. Just
+then there swept into view a force of Indians who, instantly divining what
+Pearson was trying to do, gave chase. Up and down hill, through vale, and
+across the rim-rock, they followed, sending frequent bullets after him,
+and yelling like demons, &#8220;Whupsiah si-ah-poo, Whup-si-ah!&#8221; (&#8220;Kill the
+white man!&#8221;) But the wild horse which the intrepid rider bestrode proved
+his salvation, for he gradually outran all his pursuers. Travelling
+through the Walla Walla at night Pearson reached the camp of friendly Nez
+Perc&eacute; Red Wolf on the Alpowa the next day, having ridden two hundred miles
+from The Dalles without stopping except the brief time changing horses.
+Snow and hunger now impeded his course. Part of the way he had to go on
+snowshoes without a horse. But with unflinching resolution he passed on,
+and so now here he was with his dismal tidings.</p>
+
+<p>The despatches warned Governor Stevens that Kamiakin with a thousand
+warriors was in the Walla Walla Valley and that it would be impossible for
+him to get through by that route, and that he must therefore return to the
+East by the Missouri and come back to his Territory by the steamer route
+of Panama. That meant six months&#8217; delay. With characteristic boldness,
+Governor Stevens at once rejected the more cautious course and went right
+back to Spokane by the C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene Pass, deep already with the winter
+snows, suffering intensely with cold and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> hunger, but avoiding by that
+route the Indians sent out to intercept him. With extraordinary address,
+he succeeded in turning the Spokane Indians to his side. The Nez Perc&eacute;s,
+thanks to Lawyer&#8217;s fidelity, were still friendly, and with these two
+powerful tribes arrayed against the Yakimas, there was still hope of
+holding the Columbia Valley.</p>
+
+<p>After many adventures, Governor Stevens reached Olympia in safety.
+Governor Curry of Oregon had already called a force of volunteers into the
+field. The Oregon volunteers were divided into two divisions, one under
+Colonel J. W. Nesmith, which went into the Yakima country, and the other
+under Lieutenant-Colonel J. K. Kelley, which went to Walla Walla. The
+latter force fought the decisive battle of the campaign on the 7th, 8th,
+9th, and 10th of December, 1855. It was a series of engagements occurring
+in the heart of the Walla Walla Valley, a &#8220;running fight&#8221; culminating at
+what is now called Frenchtown, ten miles west of the present city of Walla
+Walla. The most important feature of it all was the death of the great
+Walla Walla chieftain, Peupeumoxmox. But though defeated and losing so
+important a chief, the Indians scattered across the rivers and were still
+unsubdued.</p>
+
+<p>In March, 1856, the sublime section of the Columbia lying between The
+Dalles and the Cascades became the scene of a series of atrocities the
+most distressing in the entire war. The Klickitats swooped down upon the
+defenceless settlers and massacred them with revolting cruelty. They
+vanished like a whirlwind, but men whom the writer has known have related
+to him how the volunteers, returning to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> scenes of desolation, found
+all houses destroyed and the carcasses of cattle thrown into the springs
+and wells. They found the naked bodies of the girls and women with stakes
+driven through, and those of men horribly mutilated. In savage humour, the
+Indians had killed the hogs and left parts of human bodies in their
+mouths. One interesting fact connected with the campaign at the Cascades
+is that General Phil Sheridan fought his first battle there. The old Block
+House on the north side of the River, nearly opposite the present Cascade
+Locks, existed until a few years ago, and there was Sheridan&#8217;s first
+battle.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile Governor Stevens had organised a force of Washington volunteers.
+As the year 1856 progressed, it seemed more plain that the discord which
+developed between the regulars under command of General John E. Wool and
+the volunteers would result in fatal weakness. Nevertheless Governor
+Stevens and Governor Curry kept pressing the movements of their backwoods
+soldiers with unflagging energy. They were at last rewarded with a measure
+of success. For Colonel B. F. Shaw, commanding the Washington volunteers,
+learning that the hostiles were camped in force in the Grande Ronde
+Valley, made a rapid march from Walla Walla across the western spur of the
+Blue Mountains and struck the collected force of Indians a deadly blow,
+scattering them in all directions and ending the war in that quarter.</p>
+
+<p>But the end had not yet come in Walla Walla. Governor Stevens determined
+to hold another great council at the site of the first. Leaving The Dalles
+on August 19th, he pressed on to Shaw&#8217;s camp, two <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span>miles above the
+present location of Walla Walla. On September 5th, Colonel E. J. Steptoe,
+with four companies of regulars, arrived at the same place and made camp
+on the site of the present fort.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img15.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Col. B. F. Shaw, who Won the Battle of Grande Ronde in 1856.<br />By Courtesy of Major Lee Moorehouse.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>And now came on the second great Walla Walla council. The tribes were
+gathered as before, and were aligned as before. The division of Nez Perc&eacute;s
+under Lawyer stood firmly by Stevens and the treaty. The others did not.
+The most unfortunate feature of the entire matter was that Colonel
+Steptoe, acting under General Wool&#8217;s instructions, thus far kept secret,
+refused to grant Stevens adequate support and subjected him to
+humiliations which galled the fiery Governor to the limit. In fact, had it
+not been for the vigilance of the faithful Nez Perc&eacute;s of Lawyer&#8217;s band,
+Stevens and his force would surely have met the doom prepared for them at
+the first council. The debt of gratitude due Lawyer is incalculable.
+Spotted Eagle ought to be recorded, too, as of similar devotion and
+watchfulness. Governor Stevens afterward declared that a speech by him in
+favour of the whites was equal in feeling, truth, and courage to any
+speech that he ever heard from any orator whatever.</p>
+
+<p>But in spite of oratory, zeal, and argument, nothing could overcome the
+influence of Kamiakin, Owhi, Quelchen, Five Crows, and others of the
+Yakimas and Cayuses. Nothing was gained. They stood just where they were a
+year before. The fatal results of divided counsels between regulars and
+volunteers were apparent.</p>
+
+<p>The baffled Governor now started on his way down the River, but not
+without another battle. For, as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> he was marching a short distance south of
+what is now Walla Walla city, the Indians burst upon his small force with
+the evident intention of ending all scores then and there. But Colonel
+Steptoe came to the rescue, and with united forces the Indians were
+repulsed.</p>
+
+<p>That was the last battle on the Walla Walla. Colonel Steptoe established a
+rude stockade fort on Mill Creek in what is now the heart of the present
+Walla Walla city, and went into winter quarters there in 1856-57. Governor
+Stevens returned to Olympia and launched forth a bitter arraignment
+against Wool. The latter, however, was in a position of vantage and issued
+a proclamation commanding all whites in the upper country to go down the
+River and leave the Cascade Mountains as the eastern limit of the white
+settlement. Thus ended for a time this unsatisfactory and distressing war.
+To all appearances Kamiakin and his adherents had accomplished all they
+wanted.</p>
+
+<p>But this was not the end. Gold had been discovered in Eastern Washington.
+Vast possibilities of cattle raising were evident on those endless
+bunch-grass hills. Although there was as yet little conception of the
+future developments of the Inland Empire in agriculture and gardening, yet
+the keen-eyed immigrants and volunteers had scanned the pleasant vales and
+abounding streams of the Walla Walla and the Umatilla and the Palouse, and
+had decided in their own minds that, Wool or no Wool, this land must be
+opened. In 1857 the Government decided on a change of policy and sent
+General N. S. Clarke to take Wool&#8217;s place. General Clarke opened the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span>
+gates, and the impatient army of land hunters and gold hunters began to
+move in. Meanwhile, Colonel Wright and Colonel Steptoe, though formerly
+they had closely followed Wool&#8217;s policy, now began to experience a change
+of heart. Out of these conditions the third Indian war, in 1858, quickly
+succeeded the second, being indeed its inevitable sequence.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img16.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Fort Sheridan on the Grande Ronde, Built by Philip Sheridan in 1855.<br />By Courtesy of Major Lee Moorehouse.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Three campaigns marked this third war. The first was conducted by Colonel
+Steptoe against the Spokanes and C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alenes, and ended in his
+humiliating and disastrous defeat. The second was directed by Major
+Garnett against the Yakimas, resulting in their permanent overthrow. The
+third was conducted by Colonel Wright against the Spokanes and other
+northern tribes who had defeated Steptoe. This was the Waterloo of the
+Indians, and it ushered in the occupation and settlement of the upper
+Columbia country.</p>
+
+<p>The Steptoe expedition was the most ill-starred event in the whole history
+of the North-west, unless we except that of the destruction of the
+<i>Tonquin</i>. Colonel Wright was then in command of the new Fort Walla Walla,
+located in 1857 on the present ground. Perceiving his former error in
+giving the turbulent and treacherous natives undisputed sway, he ordered
+Colonel Steptoe to go with two hundred dragoons to the Spokane region and
+subject the restless tribes centring there. Steptoe&#8217;s force was well
+equipped in every way except one. The pack train was heavily laden, and an
+inebriated quartermaster conceived the brilliant idea of lessening the
+burden by <i>leaving out the larger part of the ammunition</i>. Even aside from
+this fatal blunder, Colonel Steptoe seems<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> to have had no adequate
+conception of the vigour and resources of the Indians.</p>
+
+<p>As before, the Nez Perc&eacute;s were the faithful friends of the whites.
+Timothy, a Nez Perc&eacute; chief living on Snake River at the mouth of the
+Alpowa, put them across the wicked stream, then running high with the May
+freshet, and went on with them as guide.</p>
+
+<p>On May 16, 1858, the force reached a point near four lakes, probably the
+group of which Silver Lake and Medical Lake are the chief ones, a few
+miles west of Spokane. Here was gathered a formidable array, Spokanes,
+Pend Oreilles, C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alenes, Okanogans, and Colvilles, the hosts of
+the upper country. Steptoe was soldier enough to perceive that it was time
+for caution, and he halted for a parley. Saltese, a brawny chief of the
+C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alenes, declared to him that the Indians were ready to dispute
+his farther progress, but that if the white men would retire the Indians
+would not molest them. A friendly Nez Perc&eacute;, seeing the duplicity of
+Saltese, struck his mouth, exclaiming, &#8220;You speak with a double tongue.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>The force turned back and that night all seemed well. But at nine o&#8217;clock
+the next morning, while the soldiers were descending a ca&ntilde;on to Pine
+Creek, near the present site of Rosalia, a large force of Indians burst
+upon them like a cyclone. As the battle began to wax hot, the terrible
+consequences of the error of lack of ammunition began to become manifest.
+Man after man had to cease firing. Captain O. H. P. Taylor and Lieutenant
+Gaston commanded the rear-guard. With extraordinary skill and devotion
+they held the line intact and foiled the efforts<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> of the savages to burst
+through. Meanwhile the whole force was moving as rapidly as consistent
+with formation on their way southward. Taylor and Gaston sent a messenger
+forward, begging Steptoe to halt the line and give them a chance to load.
+But the commander felt that the safety of the whole force depended on
+pressing on. Soon a fierce rush of Indians followed, and, when the surge
+had passed, the gallant rear-guard was buried under it. One notable figure
+in the death-grapple was De May, a Frenchman, trained in the Crimea and
+Algeria, and an expert fencer. For some time he used his gun barrel as a
+sword and swept the Indians down by dozens with his terrific sweeps. But
+at last he fell before numbers, and one of his surviving comrades relates
+that he heard him shouting his last words, &#8220;O, my God, my God, for a
+sabre!&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>But the lost rear-guard saved the rest. For they managed to hold back the
+swarm of foes until nightfall, when they reached a somewhat defensible
+position a few miles from the towering cone of what is now known as
+Steptoe Butte. There they spent part of a dark, rainy, and dismal night,
+anticipating a savage attack. But the Indians, sure of their prey, waited
+till morning. Surely the first light would have revealed a massacre equal
+to the Custer massacre of later date, had not the unexpected happened. And
+the unexpected was that old Timothy, the Nez Perc&eacute; guide, knew a trail
+through a rough ca&ntilde;on, the only possible exit without discovery. In the
+darkness of midnight the shattered command mounted and followed at a
+gallop the faithful Timothy on whose keen eyes and mind their salvation
+rested. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> wounded and a few footmen were dropped at intervals along the
+trail. After an eighty-mile gallop during the day and night following, the
+yellow flood of Snake River suddenly broke before them between its
+desolate banks. Saved! The unwearied Timothy threw out his own warriors as
+a screen against the pursuing foe, and set his women to ferrying the
+soldiers across the turbulent stream.</p>
+
+<p>Thus the larger part of the command reached Fort Walla Walla alive.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most extraordinary individual experiences connected with the
+Steptoe retreat, was that of Snickster and Williams. Some of the survivors
+question the correctness of this, and others vouch for its accuracy. It
+perhaps should not be set down as proven history. Snickster and Williams
+were riding one horse, and could not keep up with the main body. The
+Indians, therefore, overtook and seized them before they reached the Snake
+River. In a rage because of having been balked of their prey, the Indians
+determined to have some amusement out of the unfortunate pair, and told
+them to go into the river with their horse and try to swim across. Into
+the dangerous stream, two thousand feet wide, almost ice-cold, and with a
+powerful current, they went. As soon as they were out a score of yards,
+the Indians began their fun by making a target of them. The horse was
+almost immediately killed. Williams was struck and sank. Snickster&#8217;s arm
+was broken by a ball, but diving under the dead horse, and keeping himself
+on the farther side till somewhat out of range, and then boldly striking
+across the current, which foamed with Indian bullets, he reached the south
+side<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> of the river and was drawn out, almost dead, by some of Timothy&#8217;s
+Nez Perc&eacute; Indians.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img17.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Tullux Holiquilla, a Warm Springs Indian Chief,<br />Famous in the Modoc War as a Scout for U. S. Troops.<br />By Courtesy of Major Lee Moorehouse.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>With the defeat of Steptoe, the Indians may well have felt that they were
+invincible. But their exultation was short-lived. As already noted,
+Garnett crushed the Yakimas at one blow, and Wright a little later
+repeated Steptoe&#8217;s march to Spokane, but did not repeat his retreat. For
+in the battle of Four Lakes on September 1st, and that of Spokane Plains
+on September 5th, Wright broke for ever the power and spirits of the
+northern Indians.</p>
+
+<p>The treaties were thus established at last by war. The reservations,
+embracing the finest parts of the Umatilla, Yakima, Clearwater, and
+C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene regions, were set apart, and to them after considerable
+delay and difficulty the tribes were gathered.</p>
+
+<p>With the end of this third great Indian war and the public announcement by
+General Clarke that the country might now be considered open to
+settlement, immigration began to pour in, and on ranch and river, in mine
+and forest, the well-known labours of the American state-builders and
+home-builders became displayed. The ever-new West was repeating itself.</p>
+
+<p>The Valley of the Columbia now rested from serious strife for a number of
+years. But in 1877, an echo of the war of 1855 suddenly startled the
+country, and provided an event to which lovers of the tragic and romantic
+in history have ever since turned with deep interest. This was the &#8220;Joseph
+War&#8221; in the Wallowa. Our readers will recall that the so-called Joseph
+band of Nez Perc&eacute;s opposed the Walla Walla Treaty at first, but finally
+acquiesced, with what they understood was the stipulation that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> they
+should possess the Wallowa country as their permanent home. The Joseph of
+that time was succeeded by his son, whose Indian name was Hallakallakeen,
+&#8220;Eagle Wing.&#8221; He was the finest specimen of the native red man ever
+produced in the Columbia Valley. Of magnificent stature and proportions,
+with a rare dignity and nobility, which wider opportunities would have
+made remarkable, and with a career of mingled light and shade, pathos and
+tragedy, Hallakallakeen will go down into history with a record of
+passionate devotion from his followers and unstinted encomiums from most
+of his opponents.</p>
+
+<p>Joseph loved the Wallowa with a passionate affection, and made at first
+every effort to maintain amity with his white neighbours. But when the
+Government violated what he had regarded its sacred pledge and permitted
+entrance upon the lands which he claimed, he refused to abide by the
+decision and led out his warriors to battle. The Nez Perc&eacute;s, though few in
+number, could fight face to face with white men, and could use white men&#8217;s
+weapons and white men&#8217;s tactics. At a desperate battle at White Bird Ca&ntilde;on
+they routed the detachment in command of Colonel Perry. The result was to
+put arms, ammunition, and provisions in abundance into the hands of the
+Indians and hope into their hearts.</p>
+
+<p>General O. O. Howard, then commanding the department of the Columbia, now
+assumed command and began so vigorous a campaign against Joseph that the
+Indian chief plainly saw that with all his activity he could not avoid
+being seized in the closing arms of Howard&#8217;s command. The interesting
+details of the marches, countermarches, desperate encounters,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span> sometimes
+favourable to white man and sometimes to red, are to be found in General
+Howard&#8217;s own book. At last, with marvellous skill and good fortune, Joseph
+eluded capture and adopted the desperate resolution of crossing the Bitter
+Root Mountains by the Lolo trail, descending the Missouri, and ultimately
+reaching the Canadian line beyond the land of the Sioux. Encumbered as he
+was with his women, children, and entire movable possessions, obliged to
+forage and hunt on the way, and avoiding pursuers in rear as well as
+forces coming to meet him in front, fighting frequent and some of the time
+successful battles,&mdash;the Nez Perc&eacute; chieftain exhibited qualities of
+leadership and resources of mind and body which offer materials for a
+historical romance equal to De Quincey&#8217;s <i>Flight of the Kalmuck Tartars</i>.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img18.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Hallakallakeen (Eagle Wing) or Joseph, the Nez Perc&eacute; Chief.<br />By T. W. Tolman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Howard&#8217;s tireless pursuit in the rear and the active and intelligent
+co-operation of Gibbon and Miles, who ascended the Missouri to meet the
+fleeing Nez Perc&eacute;s, resulted at last in their capture at Bear Paw Mountain
+on the Milk River in Montana.</p>
+
+<p>General Howard says that the campaign from the beginning of the Indian
+pursuit across the Lolo trail until the embarkation on the Missouri for
+the homeward journey, including all stoppages and halts, extended from
+July 27th to October 10th, during which time his command marched one
+thousand three hundred and twenty-one miles. He says that Joseph,
+encumbered with women, children, and possessions, traversed even greater
+distances, &#8220;for he had to make many a loop in his skein, many a deviation
+into a tangled thicket, to avoid or deceive his enemy.&#8221; Howard pays the
+highest tribute to his Indian foe and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> declares that some of his
+operations are not often equalled in warfare.</p>
+
+<p>Joseph&#8217;s subsequent career was a melancholy one. Transported with his band
+to Oklahoma, the wild eagle of the Wallowa so pined away on the flat
+prairie and begged so piteously to be allowed to return to the waters of
+the Columbia, that his request was granted. But so intense was the feeling
+among the people who had suffered from their dangerous enemy that this
+poor fragment of the Nez Perc&eacute;s was placed on the Colville Reservation in
+Northern Washington. There the restless heart of the Nez Perc&eacute; Bonaparte
+was eaten out by bitter yearnings for his loved Wallowa.</p>
+
+<p>He had an occasional proud and interesting hour. At the time of General
+Grant&#8217;s obsequies at New York, Joseph was in Washington to see the &#8220;Great
+Father&#8221; about his reservation. General Miles, who greatly admired the hero
+of the Lolo trail, asked him to ride with himself at the head of the
+funeral procession. Mounted on a magnificent charger, Joseph rode solemnly
+through the streets of the metropolis by the side of the conqueror of Bear
+Paw Mountain, and there were not wanting those who said that the Indian
+was the finer horseman and the finer-looking man.</p>
+
+<p>But Joseph died at his camp on the Nespilem without ever seeing Wallowa.
+His last request was that he be buried there. He remained an Indian to the
+last, not ordinarily living in a house or wearing civilised costume or
+even speaking English, though perfectly able to do so. His life might have
+been happier had he never been known to fame.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img19.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Camp of Chief Joseph on the Nespilem, Wash.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span>The next year after the Joseph War, or in 1878, occurred the Bannock War,
+the scene of which was mainly Umatilla County in Oregon and other parts
+adjoining the River. Though at first, as has happened so many times, the
+Indians met with successes, the end was their inevitable defeat.</p>
+
+<p>With the close of the Bannock War it may be said that Indian warfare
+practically ended. The war-whoop ceased to be heard and the tomahawk was
+brandished no more along the Columbia.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X</h3>
+<p class="chapter">When the Fire-Canoes Took the Place of the Log-Canoes</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Variety of Craft that have Navigated the Columbia&mdash;The <i>Beaver</i>,
+<i>Carolina</i>, <i>Columbia</i>, and <i>Lot Whitcomb</i>&mdash;Beginning of Steamboating
+above the Cascades&mdash;Steamboats above The Dalles&mdash;Rival Companies on
+the River&mdash;The Oregon Steam Navigation Company&mdash;Great Business
+Developments of the Decade of the Sixties&mdash;Specimen Shipments in
+1862&mdash;The Steamboat Ride from Portland to Lewiston&mdash;Some of the
+Steamboat Men of the Period&mdash;Story of W. H. Gray and his Sailboat on
+the Snake River&mdash;Descending The Dalles&mdash;Captain Coe&#8217;s Account of the
+First Steamboat Ride on the Upper Columbia and the Snake&mdash;Navigation
+above Colville and on the Lakes&mdash;The Locks and Prospects of Future
+Navigation&mdash;Remarkable Trips on the River&mdash;Some Steamboats of the
+Present.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">We</span> have learned that our River has been navigated by boats of almost every
+description. At one time it was the hollowed cedar-log canoes of the
+aborgines. Again, the bateaux of the trappers were the chief craft to cut
+the blue lakes and the white rapids. At yet other times it was the
+flat-boats of the immigrants. Sailing ships of every sort&mdash;frigates,
+galleons, caravels, men-of-war, full-rigged ships, barks, brigs,
+schooners, and sloops&mdash;crowded early to the silver gate of the River.</p>
+
+<p>In due process of time the &#8220;Fire-canoes,&#8221; as the natives called steamers,
+let loose their trails of smoke amid the tops of the &#8220;continuous woods.&#8221;
+The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> <i>Beaver</i>, a small steamship belonging to the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company
+and sent from England, entered the River in 1836, the first steamer to ply
+these waters. The Company afterwards sent her to Puget Sound, and, if we
+are correctly informed, she is still afloat on the Gulf of Georgia. In
+1850 the first American steamship, the <i>Carolina</i>, crossed the Bar. In the
+same year a little double-ender, called the <i>Columbia</i>, began running
+between Portland and Astoria.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img20.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Tirzah Trask, a Umatilla Indian Girl&mdash;Taken as an Ideal of Sacajawea.<br />Photo. by Lee Moorehouse, Pendleton.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The first river steamer of any size to ply upon the Willamette and
+Columbia was the <i>Lot Whitcomb</i>. This steamer was built by Whitcomb and
+Jennings. J. C. Ainsworth was the first captain, and Jacob Kamm was the
+first engineer. Both these men became leaders in every species of
+steamboating enterprise. In 1851 Dan Bradford and B. B. Bishop inaugurated
+a movement to connect the up-river region with the lower river by getting
+a small iron propeller called the <i>Jason P. Flint</i> from the East and
+putting her together at the Cascades, whence she made the run to Portland.
+The <i>Flint</i> has been named as first to run above the Cascades, but the
+author has the authority of Mr. Bishop for stating that the first steamer
+to run above the Cascades was the <i>Eagle</i>. That steamer was brought in
+sections by Allen McKinley to the upper Cascades in 1853, there put
+together, and set to plying on the part of the river between the Cascades
+and The Dalles. In 1854, the <i>Mary</i> was built and launched above the
+Cascades, the next year the <i>Wasco</i> followed, and in 1856 the <i>Hassalo</i>
+began to toot her jubilant horn at the precipices of the mid-Columbia. In
+1859 R. R. Thompson and Lawrence Coe built the <i>Colonel Wright</i>, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span>
+first steamer on the upper section of the River. In the same year the same
+men built at the upper Cascades a steamer called the <i>Venture</i>. This craft
+met with a curious catastrophe. For on her very first trip she swung too
+far into the channel and was carried over the upper Cascades, at the point
+where the Cascade Locks are now located. She was subsequently raised,
+rebuilt, and rechristened the <i>Umatilla</i>.</p>
+
+<p>This part of the period of steamboat building was cotemporary with the
+Indian wars of 1855 and 1856. The steamers, <i>Wasco</i>, <i>Mary</i>, and <i>Eagle</i>
+were of much service in rescuing victims of the murderous assault on the
+Cascades by the Klickitats.</p>
+
+<p>While the enterprising steamboat builders were thus making their way
+up-river in the very teeth of Indian warfare, steamboats were in course of
+construction on the Willamette. The <i>Jennie Clark</i> in 1854 and the <i>Carrie
+Ladd</i> in 1858 were built for the firm of Abernethy, Clark &amp; Company. These
+both, the latter especially, were really elegant steamers for the time.</p>
+
+<p>The close of the Indian wars in 1859 saw a quite well-organised steamer
+service between Portland and The Dalles, and the great rush into the upper
+country was just beginning. The <i>Se&ntilde;orita</i>, the <i>Belle</i>, and the
+<i>Multnomah</i>, under the management of Benjamin Stark, were on the run from
+Portland to the Cascades. A rival steamer, the <i>Mountain Buck</i>, owned by
+Ruckle and Olmstead, was on the same route. These steamers connected with
+boats on the Cascades-Dalles section by means of portages five miles long
+around the rapids. There was a portage on each side of the River. That on
+the north side was operated by Bradford &amp; Company, and their steamers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span>
+were the <i>Hassalo</i> and the <i>Mary</i>. Ruckle and Olmstead owned the portage
+on the south side of the River, and their steamer was the <i>Wasco</i>. Sharp
+competition arose between the Bradford and Stark interests on one side and
+Ruckle and Olmstead on the other. The Stark Company was known as the
+Columbia River Navigation Company, and the rival was the Oregon
+Transportation Company. J. C. Ainsworth now joined the Stark party with
+the <i>Carrie Ladd</i>. So efficient did this reinforcement prove to be that
+the Transportation Company proposed to them a combination. This was
+effected in April, 1859, and the new organisation became known as the
+Union Transportation Company. This was soon found to be too loose a
+consolidation to accomplish the desired ends, and the parties interested
+set about a new combination to embrace all the steamboat men from Celilo
+to Astoria. The result was the formation of the Oregon Steam Navigation
+Company, which came into legal existence on December 20, 1860. Its stock
+in steamboats, sailboats, wharf-boats, and miscellaneous property was
+stated at $172,500.</p>
+
+<p>Such was the genesis of the &#8220;O. S. N. Co.&#8221; In a valuable article by Irene
+Lincoln Poppleton in the <i>Oregon Historical Quarterly</i> for September,
+1908, to which we here make acknowledgments, it is said that no assessment
+was ever levied on the stock of this company, but that from the proceeds
+of the business the management expended in gold nearly three million
+dollars in developing their property, besides paying to the stockholders
+in dividends over two million and a half dollars. Never perhaps was there
+such a record of money-making on such a capitalisation.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span>The source of the enormous business of the Oregon Steam Navigation Company
+was the rush into Idaho, Montana, and Eastern Oregon and Washington by the
+miners, cowboys, speculators, and adventurers of the early sixties. The
+up-river country, as described more at length in another chapter, wakened
+suddenly from the lethargy of centuries, and the wilderness teemed with
+life. That was the great steamboat age. Money flowed in streams. Fortunes
+were made and lost in a day.</p>
+
+<p>When first organised in 1860, the Oregon Steam Navigation Company had a
+nondescript lot of steamers, mainly small and weak. The two portages, one
+of five miles around the Cascades and the other of fourteen miles from The
+Dalles to Celilo Falls, were unequal to their task. The portages at the
+Cascades on both sides of the River were made by very inadequate wooden
+tramways. That at The Dalles was made by teams. Such quantities of freight
+were discharged from the steamers that sometimes the whole portage was
+lined with freight from end to end. The portages were not acquired by the
+company with the steamboat property, and as a result the portage owners
+reaped the larger share of the profits. During high water the portage on
+the Oregon side at the Cascades had a monopoly of the business, and it
+took one-half the freight income from Portland to The Dalles. This was
+holding the whip-hand with a vengeance, and the vigorous directors of the
+steamboat company could not endure it. Accordingly, they absorbed the
+rights of the portage owners, built a railroad from Celilo to The Dalles
+on the Oregon side, and one around the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span>Cascades on the Washington side.
+The company was reorganised under the laws of Oregon in October, 1862,
+with a declared capitalisation of two million dollars.</p>
+
+<p>Business on the River in 1863 was something enormous. Hardly ever did a
+steamer make a trip with less than two hundred passengers. Freight was
+offered in such quantities at Portland that trucks had to stand in line
+for blocks, waiting to deliver and receive their loads. New boats were
+built of a much better class. Two rival companies, the Independent Line
+and the People&#8217;s Transportation Line, made a vigorous struggle to secure a
+share of the business, but they were eventually overpowered. Some
+conception of the amount of business may be gained from the fact that the
+steamers transported passengers to an amount of fares running from $1000
+to $6000 a trip. On April 29, 1862, the <i>Tenino</i>, leaving Celilo for the
+Lewiston trip, had a passenger load amounting to $10,945, and a few trips
+later reported receipts of $18,000, for freight, passengers, meals, and
+berths. The steamships sailing from Portland to San Francisco showed
+equally remarkable records. On June 25, 1861, the <i>Sierra Nevada</i> conveyed
+a treasure shipment of $228,000; July 14th, $110,000; August 24th,
+$195,558; December 5th, $750,000. The number of passengers carried on The
+Dalles-Lewiston route in 1864 was 36,000 and the tons of freight were
+21,834.</p>
+
+<p>It was a magnificent steamboat ride in those days from Portland to
+Lewiston. The fare was sixty dollars; meals and berths, one dollar each. A
+traveller would leave Portland at five <span class="smcaplc">A.M.</span> on, perhaps, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>
+<i>Wilson G. Hunt</i>, reach the Cascades sixty-five miles distant at eleven <span class="smcaplc">A.M.</span>, proceed
+by rail five miles to the upper Cascades, there transfer to the <i>Oneonta</i>
+or <i>Idaho</i> for The Dalles, passing in that run from the humid, low-lying,
+heavily timbered West-of-the-mountains, to the dry, breezy, hilly
+East-of-the-mountains. Reaching The Dalles, fifty miles farther east, he
+would be conveyed by another portage railroad, fourteen miles more, to
+Celilo. There the <i>Tenino</i>, <i>Yakima</i>, <i>Nez Perc&eacute; Chief</i>, or <i>Owyhee</i> was
+waiting. With the earliest light of the morning the steamer would head
+right into the impetuous current of the River, bound for Lewiston, two
+hundred and eighty miles farther yet, taking two days, sometimes three,
+though only one to return. Those steamers were mainly of the
+light-draught, stern-wheel structure, which still characterises the
+Columbia River boats. They were swift and roomy and well adapted to the
+turbulent waters of the upper River.</p>
+
+<p>The captains, pilots, and pursers of that period were as fine a set of men
+as ever turned a wheel. Bold, bluff, genial, hearty, and obliging they
+were, even though given to occasional outbursts of expletives and
+possessing voluminous repertoires of &#8220;cuss-words&#8221; such as would startle
+the effete East. Any old Oregonian who may chance to cast his eyes upon
+these pages will recall, as with the pangs of childhood homesickness, the
+forms and features of steamboat men of that day; the polite yet determined
+Ainsworth, the brusque and rotund Reed, the bluff and hearty Knaggs, the
+frolicsome and never disconcerted Ingalls, the dark, powerful, and
+nonchalant Coe, the patriarchal beard of Stump, the loquacious<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span>
+&#8220;Commodore&#8221; Wolf, who used to point out to astonished tourists the
+&#8220;diabolical strata&#8221; on the banks of the River, the massive and
+good-natured Strang, the genial and elegant O&#8217;Neil, the suave and witty
+Snow, the tall and handsome Sampson, the rich Scotch brogue of McNulty,
+and dozens of others, whose combined adventures would fill a volume. One
+of the most experienced pilots of the upper River was Captain &#8220;Eph&#8221;
+Baughman, who has been running on the Snake and Columbia rivers for fifty
+years, and is yet active at the date of this publication. W. H. Gray, who
+came to Waiilatpu with Whitman as secular agent of the mission, became a
+river man of much skill. He gave four sons, John, William, Alfred, and
+James, to the service of the River, all four of them being skilled
+captains. A story narrated to the author by Captain William Gray, now of
+Pasco, Washington, well illustrates the character of the old Columbia
+River navigators. W. H. Gray was the first man to run a sailboat of much
+size with regular freight up Snake River. That was in 1860 before any
+steamers were running on that stream. Mr. Gray built his boat, a fifty-ton
+sloop, on Oosyoos Lake on the Okanogan River. In it he descended that
+river to its entrance into the Columbia. Thence be descended the Columbia,
+running down the Entiat, Rock Island, Cabinet, and Priest Rapids, no mean
+undertaking of itself. Reaching the mouth of the Snake, he took on a load
+of freight and started up the swift stream. At Five-mile Rapids he found
+that his sail was insufficient to carry the sloop up. Men had said that it
+was impossible. His crew all prophesied disaster. The stubborn captain
+merely <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span>declared, &#8220;There is no such word as fail in my dictionary.&#8221; He
+directed his son and another of the crew to take the small boat, load her
+with a long coil of rope, make their way up the stream until they got
+above the rapid, there to land on an islet of rock, fasten the rope to
+that rock, then pay it out till it was swept down the rapid. They were
+then to descend the rapid in the small boat. &#8220;Very likely you may be
+upset,&#8221; added the skipper encouragingly, &#8220;but if you are, you know how to
+swim.&#8221; They were upset, sure enough, but they did know how to swim. They
+righted their boat, picked up the end of the floating rope, and reached
+the sloop with it. The rope was attached to the capstan, and the sloop was
+wound up by it above the swiftest part of the rapid to a point where the
+sail was sufficient to carry, and on they went rejoicing. Any account of
+steamboating on the Columbia would be incomplete without reference to
+Captain James Troup, who was born on the Columbia, and almost from early
+boyhood ran steamers upon it and its tributaries. He made a specialty of
+running steamers down the Dalles and the Cascades, an undertaking
+sometimes rendered necessary by the fact that more boats were built in
+proportion to demand on the upper than the lower River. These were taken
+down the Dalles, and sometimes down the Cascades. Once down, they could
+not return. The first steamer to run down the Tumwater Falls was the
+<i>Okanogan</i>, on May 22, 1866, piloted by Captain T. J. Stump.</p>
+
+<p>The author enjoyed the great privilege of descending the Dalles in the <i>D.
+S. Baker</i> in the year 1888, Captain Troup being in command. At that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span>
+strange point in the River, the whole vast volume is compressed into a
+channel but one hundred and sixty feet wide at low water and much deeper
+than wide. Like a huge mill-race this channel continues nearly straight
+for two miles, when it is hurled with frightful force against a massive
+bluff. Deflected from the bluff, it turns at a sharp angle to be split in
+sunder by a low reef of rock. When the <i>Baker</i> was drawn into the suck of
+the current at the head of the &#8220;chute&#8221; she swept down the channel, which
+was almost black, with streaks of foam, to the bluff, two miles in four
+minutes. There feeling the tremendous refluent wave, she went careening
+over and over toward the sunken reef. The skilled captain had her
+perfectly in hand, and precisely at the right moment, rang the signal
+bell, &#8220;Ahead, full speed,&#8221; and ahead she went, just barely scratching her
+side on the rock. Thus close was it necessary to calculate distance. If
+the steamer had struck the tooth-like point of the reef broadside on, she
+would have been broken in two and carried in fragments on either side.
+Having passed this danger point, she glided into the beautiful calm bay
+below and the feat was accomplished. Captain J. C. Ainsworth and Captain
+James Troup were the two captains above all others to whom the company
+entrusted the critical task of running steamers over the rapids.</p>
+
+<p>In the <i>Overland Monthly</i> of June, 1886, there is a valuable account by
+Captain Lawrence Coe of the maiden journey of the <i>Colonel Wright</i> from
+Celilo up what they then termed the upper Columbia.</p>
+
+<p>This first journey on that section of the River was made in April, 1859.
+The pilot was Captain Lew<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> White. The highest point reached was Wallula,
+the site of the old Hudson&#8217;s Bay fort. The current was a powerful one to
+withstand, no soundings had ever been made, and no boats except canoes,
+bateaux, flatboats, and a few small sailboats, had ever made the trip. No
+one had any conception of the location of a channel adapted to a
+steamboat. No difficulty was experienced, however, except at the Umatilla
+Rapids. This is a most singular obstruction. Three separate reefs, at
+intervals of half a mile, extend right across the River. There are narrow
+breaks in these reefs, but not in line with each other. Through them the
+water pours with tremendous velocity, and on account of their irregular
+locations a steamer must zigzag across the River at imminent risk of being
+borne broadside on to the reef. The passage of the Umatilla Rapids is not
+difficult at high water, for then the steamer glides over the rocks in a
+straight course.</p>
+
+<p>In the August <i>Overland</i> of the same year, Captain Coe narrates the first
+steamboat trip up Snake River. This was in June, 1860, just at the time of
+the beginning of the gold excitement. The <i>Colonel Wright</i> was loaded with
+picks, rockers, and other mining implements, as well as provisions and
+passengers. Most of the freight and passengers were put off at Wallula, to
+go thence overland. Part continued on to test the experiment of making way
+against the wicked-looking current of Snake River. After three days and a
+half from the starting point a few miles above Celilo, the <i>Colonel
+Wright</i> halted at a place which was called Slaterville, thirty-seven miles
+up the Clearwater from its junction with the Snake. There<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> the remainder
+of the cargo was discharged, to be hauled in waggons to the Oro Fino
+mines. The steamer <i>Okanogan</i> followed the <i>Colonel Wright</i> within a few
+weeks, and navigation on the Snake may be said to have fairly begun.
+During that same time the city of Lewiston, named in honour of Meriwether
+Lewis, the explorer, was founded at the junction of the Snake and
+Clearwater rivers.</p>
+
+<p>While parts of the Columbia and it chief tributary, the Snake, were thus
+opened to navigation by 1860, no &#8220;fire-canoe&#8221; had yet appeared on that
+magnificent stretch of navigable water from Colville into the Arrow Lakes.
+From contemporary files of the <i>Daily Mountaineer</i> of The Dalles, we learn
+that Captain Lew White launched the <i>Forty-nine</i> in November, 1865, at
+Colville. In December the <i>Forty-nine</i> ascended the Columbia one hundred
+and sixty miles, nearly to the head of lower Arrow Lake, whence, meeting
+floating ice, she returned. From the <i>Mountaineer</i> we learn also that in
+the early months of 1866 a steamer was constructed at the mouth of Bois&eacute;
+River for navigation of the far upper Snake. At the same time also the
+steamer <i>Mary Moody</i> was constructed by Z. F. Moody, on Pend Oreille Lake,
+the first steamer on any of the lakes except the Arrow Lakes of the
+Columbia.</p>
+
+<p>With the close of the decade of the sixties, it may be said that the
+Columbia and its tributaries had fairly entered upon the steamboat era.
+While many steamers were added within the succeeding years, the steamboat
+business was never so active on the upper River as during that early age.
+After the building of the railroads along the River and into interior<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span>
+valleys and eastward, it became apparent that the heavy handicap of
+rehandling freight at two portages would forbid the steamers from
+competing with the railroads. In 1879 the Oregon Steam Navigation Company
+sold out to the Villard interests for $5,000,000, and the Oregon Railroad
+and Navigation Company was the result.</p>
+
+<p>Since that time there have been few steamboats on that part of the River
+above The Dalles. The section between The Dalles and the Cascades was
+joined to the tide-water section by the opening of the Government locks at
+the Cascades in 1896, and since that time many of the finest steamers on
+the River do an immense tourist business between The Dalles and Portland.
+It is only a question of a few years till the locks at Celilo will be
+completed, and then the whole vast Inland Empire, with its enormous
+production, will be thrown open to the sea. Then there will come on a new
+age of steamboat navigation, and with it the electric railroad. The
+steamer and the trolley car will set the whole Columbia Basin next door to
+tide-water. When improvements now in view by Government are completed, our
+River will be one of the most superb steamer courses in the world. That
+may truthfully be said already of the two hundred and twenty miles from
+The Dalles to the Ocean, as well as of the three hundred miles from Kettle
+Falls, Washington, to Death Rapids, B. C.</p>
+
+<p>The Government engineers in Senate Document, 344, February, 1890, name the
+amount of navigable water on the Columbia and its tributaries at 1664
+miles. This may, perhaps, be an underestimation, since President Roosevelt
+has recently referred to it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> as twenty-five hundred miles, in which he
+probably included the lakes. Generally speaking, the rivers of the Pacific
+slope descend from high altitudes in comparatively short distances, and
+are necessarily swift. Hence we can expect no such vast extent of
+navigable water on them as the Mississippi and its affluents offer. Aside
+from the Columbia itself, the main streams, east of the Cascade Mountains
+offering steamboat transportation, are the Snake, Okanogan, and Kootenai,
+together with Lakes Pend Oreille, Chelan, C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene, Flathead,
+Okanogan, Kootenai, Arrow, Christina, and Slocan. On the west side are the
+Willamette, Cowlitz, and Lewis rivers.</p>
+
+<p>It would fill a volume to narrate even a tithe of the thrilling tales of
+daring and tragedy which gather around the subject of boating in all its
+forms on the Columbia.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most remarkable steamboat journeys was that elsewhere described
+in this work, under command of Captain F. P. Armstrong, of the <i>North
+Star</i>, from Jennings, Montana, on the Kootenai to Canal Flats and thence
+through the canal to Lake Columbia. With that should be coupled as equally
+daring and more difficult, the trip down Snake River, from the Seven
+Devils to Lewiston, in a steamer piloted by Captain W. P. Gray.</p>
+
+<p>Undoubtedly the most remarkable journey in any other sort of craft than a
+steamboat was that undertaken by a party of eighteen miners in 1865. They
+built a large sailing boat at Colville and in her ran up the entire course
+of the River, never having their boat entirely out of water, though our
+informant says that they must have had her on skids part of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> the way. They
+reached the very head of the Columbia, over seven hundred miles above
+their starting point, hauled their boat across Canal Flats, launched her
+again on the Kootenai, and so descended that furious stream to Fort Steele
+on Wild Horse Creek. The full history of that journey would be deserving
+of a place in any record of daring exploration.</p>
+
+<p>In concluding this chapter, it may be said that there are now upon the
+lower Columbia some of the swiftest and most beautiful &#8220;fire-canoes&#8221; in
+the world. These ply on the two great scenic routes, one from Portland to
+Astoria, and the other from Portland to The Dalles. The most noted of
+these swift steamers at present writing are the <i>Hassalo</i> (No. 2), the <i>T.
+J. Potter</i>, the <i>Charles D. Spencer</i>, and the <i>Bailey Gatzert</i>.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI</h3>
+<p class="chapter">Era of the Miner, the Cowboy, the Farmer, the Boomer, and the Railroad Builder</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Early Gold-hunters&mdash;Gold in California&mdash;Effects of that Discovery on
+the Columbia River Country&mdash;Growth of Towns on the Columbia&mdash;Discovery
+of Gold in the Colville Country&mdash;Gold on the Clearwater&mdash;Stampede to
+the Idaho Mines&mdash;Cowboys Rush in with the Miners&mdash;Sudden Development
+of Industries at Walla Walla, Lewiston, and Other Towns&mdash;Profits and
+Fare in the Mines in 1861&mdash;The Hard Winter&mdash;Development of the Farming
+Industry&mdash;The Boomers&mdash;The Hard Times&mdash;The Railroad Age&mdash;Beginning of
+Railroading in the Willamette Valley&mdash;Ben Holladay&mdash;Transcontinental
+Railways&mdash;Henry Villard&mdash;His Great Building and his Downfall&mdash;The
+Present Railroads on the River&mdash;Dr. D. S. Baker and the Pioneer
+Railroad on the Upper River.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">The</span> age of gold in the Columbia pressed hard upon that of the trappers.
+But it dawned first far south.</p>
+
+<p>The Spaniards had sought the precious metals with boundless energy. Richly
+had the treasures of the Montezumas and the Incas rewarded their reckless
+cupidity. But as they moved northward they met with nothing but
+disappointment. The El Dorados of their ardent fancy had vanished as they
+turned toward Oregon and California.</p>
+
+<p>In 1848 the guns of Stockton and Fremont thundered the salvos of American
+occupation over the Sierras. Just as the sovereignty of Uncle Sam was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>
+acknowledged, the long-sought discovery of gold startled the world.</p>
+
+<p>In 1838 a gay, mercurial Switzer, Captain Sutter, had made his way with a
+band of trappers across the plains to Oregon, and thence had gone to
+California. A dashing adventurer, without money, but with boundless
+<i>sang-froid</i> and <i>bonhommie</i>, Sutter had marvellously interested all whom
+he met and in some inexplicable manner had got money and credit sufficient
+to build a fort and start an immense ranch on the Sacramento, almost on
+the site of the present capital of the Golden State. &#8220;Sutter&#8217;s fort&#8221;
+became one of the most notable places in California. In 1844 James W.
+Marshall went to the Columbia, but after only a year&#8217;s stay made his way
+to California. In 1847 he entered into partnership with Sutter in a
+sawmill enterprise at Coloma on the south fork of the American River.
+There, while at work in the mill-race on the 19th of January, 1848,
+Marshall discovered shining particles. Gold!</p>
+
+<p>The discovery was made, and soon the secret was out. And then&mdash;! There
+never was anything quite comparable to what followed. The first and
+greatest of the great stampedes for gold took place.</p>
+
+<p>When the tidings reached Oregon it was as though a prairie fire were
+running over the country. Men went fairly mad. Throngs, hardly stopping to
+take their ploughs from the furrow, mounted their horses, galloped off up
+the Willamette, through the lonely valleys of the Umpqua and the Rogue
+River, over the Siskiyou, and down the Sacramento, where a fortune could
+be had for the digging.</p>
+
+<p>All the stress and strain of American life and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> history reached the utmost
+intensity in the fever strife for gold on the Sacramento. The Willamette
+and Columbia were almost equally stirred. During the first two years of
+the gold excitement homes on the Columbia were well-nigh deserted. Then
+the Oregonians began to drift back again. Some came with gold-bricks in
+their pockets and sacks of gold-dust in their packs. Some came broken in
+health and spirits, sick with disappointment. Some did not come at all,
+and their bones found unmarked graves in the pestilential ditches of the
+Sacramento.</p>
+
+<p>But the shrewder Oregonians perceived that they had better than a gold
+mine in the trade with California. Grain, fruit, eggs, lumber,&mdash;these were
+in such demand that frequently twenty ships at a time were moored by the
+dense forests of the lower Willamette waiting for cargoes. Gold-dust was
+the universal medium, and it seemed to be cheaper than anything else. Four
+bushels of Oregon apples brought five hundred dollars in gold-dust in San
+Francisco. Tons of eggs were sold for a dollar apiece in the gold mines.</p>
+
+<p>Portland, the lonely little village on the Willamette, with just enough of
+a foothold by the edge of the forest to keep from rolling into the River,
+sprang at a bound into the rank of a city. The huge firs were dug out, and
+wharves went in. The face of nature, even, as well as that of industry and
+politics, was transformed by that gold-dust in Marshall&#8217;s mill-race on the
+Sacramento.</p>
+
+<p>But, most of all, the disposition of the people was changed. The serene,
+idyllic, pastoral age passed, and the fierce lust for wealth, the
+boundless imagination,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> the fever in the veins, came on. Why should there
+not be gold as well by the Columbia as by the Sacramento! The men who had
+come down the Columbia in search for homes and grass-land for cattle, now
+began to retrace their steps and turn again up the River in search of the
+precious metals. Nor was it long before discovery of gold in the region
+tributary to Colville was made known. The first discovery was at the mouth
+of the Pend Oreille River. A regular stampede ensued. Other discoveries on
+a greater scale were soon to follow. During the early days of the gold
+excitement of California, a Nez Perc&eacute; Indian had wandered on to the
+Sacramento. He made acquaintance with a group of miners, who became
+impressed with his general force and dignity. Among these miners was E. D.
+Pearce, and to him the Indian gave a vivid account of his home in the
+wilds of what is now Idaho. He told also a tale of how he with two
+companions were once in the high mountains, when they beheld in the night
+a light of dazzling brilliance, with the appearance of a refulgent star.
+The Indians looked at this with awe as the eye of the Great Spirit. But in
+the morning they summoned courage sufficient to investigate, and found a
+glittering ball that looked like glass. It was so embedded in the rock
+that they could not dislodge it. It was clear to them that this was some
+great &#8220;tomanowas.&#8221; On hearing this fantastic story, the mind of Pearce was
+kindled with the idea that perhaps the Indians had found an immense
+diamond. He determined to seek it. After several years he made his way up
+the Columbia and reached Walla Walla. From that point he ranged the
+mountains of Idaho,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span> but for a long time met no success. With a company of
+seven men, he entered upon an elaborate search, which finally so much
+aroused the suspicion of the Indians that they ordered him from the
+country. Nothing daunted, however, he induced a Nez Perc&eacute; woman to guide
+the party from the Palouse to the Lolo trail, from which they reached an
+unfrequented valley on the north fork of the Clearwater. There one of the
+party, W. F. Bassett, tried washing a pan of dirt, with the result that he
+got a &#8220;colour.&#8221; This was the first discovery of gold in Idaho, and the
+spot was where Oro Fino afterwards stood.</p>
+
+<p>Fall was coming on, and after digging out a small amount of dust, the
+party deemed it wise to return to the settlements for a more thorough
+outfitting. Accordingly, they went to Walla Walla and located with J. C.
+Smith, to whom they imparted their secret. So impressed was Mr. Smith with
+the tidings that he organised a party of fifteen, with whom he returned
+just at the opening of the winter of that same year, 1860. Soon shut in by
+deep snows in inaccessible mountains, the little company built five rude
+huts, and in the intervals of the storms they dug for gold along the
+streams, meeting with such success that in March Mr. Smith made his way to
+Walla Walla with $800 in gold-dust. The dust was sent to Portland. Now
+ensued another gold excitement and stampede almost equal to that of &#8217;49 in
+California.</p>
+
+<p>As the miners rushed into Idaho, every other species of industry rushed up
+the River with them. The cowboy came side by side with the miner. In fact,
+already following close on the heels of the Indian<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> war, had come an
+inrush of cattle, horses, and sheep. During the last years of the decade
+of the fifties, stockmen had driven from the Willamette Valley thousands
+of head of stock to the rich pasture lands of the Walla Walla, Umatilla,
+and Yakima. When the gold discoveries of 1860 and 1861 became known, the
+activities of the cowboys were multiplied, added bands of stock were
+driven in, all the wild and extravagant features of a combined cowboy and
+mining age, vendors of &#8220;chain-lightning and forty-rod,&#8221; gamblers,
+prostitutes, murderers,&mdash;and with them missionaries and teachers,&mdash;became
+reproduced again on the shores of the Columbia, Snake, Clearwater, Salmon,
+Walla Walla, and other rivers of the Inland Empire. It was another of
+those wild eras in which the worst and the best that are in human nature
+jostled each other at every turn.</p>
+
+<p>Transportation problems followed close upon the cowboy and the miner. The
+Oregon Steam Navigation Company, organised in 1860, began within a year to
+run steamboats from Portland to Lewiston, with portage railroads around
+the Cascades and the Dalles. Stage lines were started from Umatilla, Walla
+Walla, and Lewiston, within a year or two after the gold discoveries of
+Oro Fino. Prairie-schooners, huge waggons, sometimes three in tandem
+fashion, drawn by a team of twenty mules, with jingling bells, driven with
+a &#8220;single line,&#8221; formed the approved system of hauling freight over the
+mountain roads. In addition to the stages and prairie-schooners, however,
+thousands of mules and horses were driven with pack-saddles over the
+trails and roads. Then was the time when &#8220;throwing the diamond hitch&#8221;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span>became a fine art. Then was the time, too, when it behooved stage-drivers
+and packers to be handy with a &#8220;gun,&#8221; for &#8220;road-agents&#8221; were plentiful and
+vigilant. Many a man with a pack-saddle loaded with gold-dust, or
+sometimes with whiskey or even &#8220;canned goods,&#8221; &#8220;passed in his checks&#8221;
+under some over-shadowing tree or behind some sheltering rock.</p>
+
+<p>Both the distresses and the successes of that epoch are well illustrated
+by extracts from some of the newspapers of the time. From issues of the
+<i>Washington Statesman</i> of Walla Walla, we learn that flour was at one time
+a dollar a pound; beef, thirty to fifty cents a pound; bacon, sixty;
+beans, thirty; rice, fifty; tea a dollar and a half; tobacco, a dollar and
+a half; sugar, fifty cents; candles, a dollar. Some of these staples could
+not be had at all. Physicians, when they got into the mines, would charge
+twenty dollars a visit. Board was from five to ten dollars a day,
+frequently more.</p>
+
+<p>But as an offset to the expense and frequent positive suffering, we gather
+the following item from an issue of the <i>Statesman</i> in December, 1861:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>S. F. Ledyard arrived last evening from the Salmon River mines, and
+from him it is learned that some six hundred miners would winter
+there; that some two hundred had gone to the south side of the river,
+where two streams head that empty into the Salmon, some thirty miles
+south-east of the present mining camp. Coarse gold is found, and as
+high as one hundred dollars per day to the man has been taken out. The
+big mining claim of the old locality belongs to Mr. Weiser of Oregon,
+from which two thousand six hundred and eighty dollars were taken out
+on the 20th, with two rockers. On the 21st, three thousand three
+hundred and sixty dollars were taken out with the same machines.</p></div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span>The <i>Statesman</i> for December 13, 1861, contains the following:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>During the week past not less than two hundred and twenty-five pack
+animals, heavily laden with provisions, have left this city for the
+mines. A report in relation to a rich strike by Mr. Bridges of Oregon
+City seems to come well authenticated. The first day he worked on his
+claim (near Baboon Gulch) he took out fifty-seven ounces; the second
+day he took out one hundred and fifty-seven ounces; the third day, two
+hundred and fourteen ounces; and the fourth day, two hundred ounces in
+two hours.</p></div>
+
+<p>As an ounce of gold was worth sixteen dollars, it will be seen that Mr.
+Bridges of Oregon City had truly &#8220;struck it rich.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>Within a year, a million and a half dollars in gold-dust had been taken
+from those mines. Anticipated demands led cattlemen to rush still larger
+numbers of stock into the upper Columbia Basin, and traders brought in yet
+larger supplies of goods into Walla Walla and Lewiston, as well as the
+mining camps themselves. A considerable part of these goods, we regret to
+narrate, consisted of material for spirituous refreshments. That the said
+refreshments were of a stalwart character may be inferred from a
+reminiscence of a traveller to Walla Walla, who relates that upon going
+into one of the numerous saloons, he found the floor covered with sawdust,
+and upon asking for whiskey, he received with it a whisk-broom. Feeling
+puzzled as to the intent of the latter, and not wishing to reveal his
+ignorance, he waited till another man came in. Waiting for developments,
+he found that the object of the broom was to sweep off a place on the
+floor to have a fit on, for the whiskey was sure<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> to produce one. After
+having got through his fit, the happy (?) purchaser would return the broom
+and go on his way.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img21.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">An Oregon Pioneer in his Cabin.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Just as miners, cowboys, and traders were plunging eagerly into every form
+of enterprise, the famous &#8220;hard winter&#8221; of &#8217;61 descended upon the country.
+It was almost a Minnesota winter. There was snow on the ground from
+December 1st to March 22d, something never known before or since in the
+Columbia Basin. Cattle could find no food and perished by the thousands.
+Miners were found frozen into the stiff crust. In the rude cabins, with
+wide cracks into which the snow drifted, the few women and children in the
+Inland Empire fought a distressing and frequently losing fight. Even in
+the Willamette Valley where houses were more comfortable, supplies more
+plentiful, and the weather less severe, the conditions were hard enough.
+At Portland the price of hay was eighty dollars a ton. In Eastern Oregon
+it could not be obtained for any price, and the maintenance of life by
+cattle depended entirely on their endurance.</p>
+
+<p>But with the coming on of tardy spring, the rush up the River was resumed,
+and the game went on. Seven millions in gold was reported in 1862, besides
+almost as much, as was estimated, taken out in ways of which no record was
+reported.</p>
+
+<p>At Florence in February, 1862, flour was a dollar a pound; butter, three
+dollars; sugar, a dollar and a quarter; coffee, two dollars; boots, thirty
+dollars a pair.</p>
+
+<p>The enormous profits, as well as enormous expense, of developing those
+mines hastened the coming of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> farmer. Among the throng that passed
+madly into the mountains for gold, and among the throng that drove the
+wide-horned cattle over the bunch-grass hills, there were a few keen-eyed
+observers who asked themselves if wheat and corn and potatoes and barley
+and fruit-trees might not grow on those broad prairies, and especially
+along the numerous watercourses descending from the Blue Mountains.</p>
+
+<p>A farm here and there at some favourable point beside some favouring
+stream, followed in two or three years by a flour-mill, then a few apples
+whose bright red cheeks and fragrant smell showed that the upper Columbia
+lands could match those of the Willamette, then an experimental
+wheat-field or barley-field on the high bunch-grass prairies,&mdash;and, almost
+before people realised it, the farmer was standing up beside the miner and
+the stockman, as tall and broad and important as either. The plough and
+the hoe and the mowing-machine took their places beside the pick and
+gold-pan and quirt and schapps and spurs as symbols of Columbia River
+nobility.</p>
+
+<p>The &#8220;boomer&#8221; was the logical result of the development of mine and range
+and farm and garden and orchard. If people were going to eat and travel
+and raise wheat and cattle, they must inevitably buy and sell. And if they
+were going to buy and sell, they must needs &#8220;boom.&#8221; The decade of the
+eighties was the great age of the boom in real estate along the Columbia
+and its tributaries. Then, as also upon Puget Sound, cities were founded
+with most extravagant size and expectations&mdash;on paper. Farm lands changed
+hands rapidly. If a man could raise nothing else on his land, he could at
+least raise the price.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> That was the time when the boomer boomed, the
+promoter promoted, and the sucker sucked. It was a great age, but alas, it
+was followed by an awakening, similar to that which follows a night of
+carousal, when the next day brings a dark-brown taste in the mouth and a
+very heavy head. The decade of the nineties was dolorous along the River
+and in the mines and forests and farms and town-lots and additions and
+suburbs adjoining.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img22.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Old Portage Railroad at Cascades in 1860.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img23.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center"> A Log-boom Down the River for San Francisco.<br />Photo. by Woodfield.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Interlocked with the days of miner, cowboy, rancher, and boomer, was
+another age of equal importance and one that was both result and cause of
+the others. This was the age of the railroad builder.</p>
+
+<p>Transportation by the River was a great feature of traffic in the fifties
+and sixties. But, during the second of those decades, the people of
+Portland began to realise that the time had arrived for rails as well as
+sails. The first great transcontinental railroad, the Union Pacific and
+Central Pacific, was in active process of building between California and
+Omaha. A fever of railroad building spread to the Columbia River people.
+Railroads were projected from Portland on both sides of the Willamette, up
+the valley, with the view of ultimate connection with California. Surveys
+were made by S. G. Elliott from Marysville, California, to Portland in
+1863. It was October, 1870, when the first train reached Salem, the
+capital of the State. The road was known as the Oregon Central Railroad,
+and its manager and ultimately its chief owner was Ben Holladay, the most
+famous railroad man of that period in Oregon. In 1871 and 1872, railroad
+building was extended on the west side of the Willamette. The lines on
+both sides<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> were reorganised under Mr. Holladay&#8217;s control as the Oregon
+and California Railroad.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile the air was full of discussion of a transcontinental line to the
+Pacific Northwest. The conception of a Northern Pacific railroad was
+nothing new. Away back in 1853, Governor I. I. Stevens and Captain George
+B. McClellan had made a reconnaissance across the Rocky and Cascade
+Mountains and over the great plains of the Columbia, for the purpose of
+ascertaining a route for a northern line. They pronounced the route
+feasible, but the time had not yet come for such an undertaking. In a
+letter to McClellan of April 5, 1853, Governor Stevens states the route to
+be from St. Paul to Puget Sound by the great bend of the Missouri River.
+It is interesting to note that this is nearly the course afterwards
+followed.</p>
+
+<p>Work on the Northern Pacific was begun in the vicinity of Kalama on the
+Columbia in 1870. The financial panic of 1873 resulted in the failure of
+Jay Cooke &amp; Company, the backers of the enterprise, and for several years
+railroad work was at a standstill.</p>
+
+<p>In 1879 there came to Oregon the greatest railroad builder of that era,
+Henry Villard. He was a true financial genius, daring, far-seeing,
+persistent, and self-reliant. With the quick grasp of a statesman, Mr.
+Villard perceived that the Columbia River was the key to a boundless
+opportunity. He saw that a central line up the Columbia with branches
+north, east, and south-east, might be thrust like a wedge between the
+Northern Pacific and the Union Pacific and control both. In pursuance of
+this conception he made three rapid moves. The first was the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span>
+incorporation of the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company. The second was
+the formation of the &#8220;blind pool&#8221; and the Oregon and Transcontinental
+Company. The third was the acquisition of a controlling interest in the
+Northern Pacific Railroad. The three years up to and including 1883 were
+years of almost feverish activity along the River. The line of the Oregon
+Railroad and Navigation Company between Wallula and Portland was pushed on
+with tireless energy. Rock bluffs were split off by enormous charges of
+dynamite, or were tunnelled through. The road was indeed built so hastily
+and the curves were in some cases so extreme that much work had to be done
+over at later times.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img24.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Lumber Mill and Steamboat Landing at Golden, B. C.<br />Photo. by C. F. Yates.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>A part of Villard&#8217;s plan in pushing the work so hastily was to divert the
+Northern Pacific system to the River, and make Portland rather than Puget
+Sound the western terminus. The undertaking seemed to be crowned with
+success. The connection was made. A gorgeous celebration, the greatest
+ever held in the Columbia River country, commemorated, in October, 1883,
+the completion of the transcontinental railroad to tide-water on the
+Columbia River. But in the very hour of victory, the sceptre fell from
+Villard&#8217;s hands. His downfall was as sudden and dramatic as his rise. By
+clever jobbing of the market, the Wright interests regained possession of
+the majority of the Northern Pacific stock, the transcontinental pool
+broke, and at the very time that Mr. Villard was being worshipped at
+Portland as the financial god of the North-west, he learned that his
+gigantic enterprise had fallen into the hands of the enemy. But in spite
+of defeat the work of Villard was <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span>assured, and his name and fame as the
+champion railroad builder of the Columbia River was established.</p>
+
+<p>After the Wright interests had regained possession of the Northern
+Pacific, that great system was pushed to Puget Sound. The Oregon Short
+Line was carried to a connection with the Union Pacific system. Thus two
+independent transcontinental lines reached the River. Yet later the
+Southern Pacific system acquired control of the Oregon and California
+Railroad, and, by joining the sections, connected the Columbia River with
+the Golden Gate. Through connecting lines the Canadian Pacific Railroad
+gained access to the Columbia River. There are, therefore, four distinct
+transcontinental railroad systems into the valley of our River. Two more
+are rapidly approaching completion. As a logical result, too, many local
+and connecting lines have been built. The Astoria and Columbia River
+Railroad, on the Oregon side of the River, joins Portland to Astoria and
+Seaside and the other resorts of the ocean beach. The Oregon Railway and
+Navigation Company has continuous connection on the south side of the
+Columbia and Snake rivers to Riparia on the latter stream, and thence by a
+road on the north side, owned jointly with the Northern Pacific, to
+Lewiston, Idaho. The most remarkable of all these connecting and joint
+roads is the Portland, Seattle, and Spokane Railroad, commonly called the
+&#8220;North Bank Road.&#8221; This is supposed to be the joint property of the
+Northern Pacific and Great Northern railroads. It is one of the many
+monuments in the West to the financial genius and tireless energy of James
+J. Hill. It was completed in 1908, between Pasco and Portland, and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span>at
+the first of the year following, from Pasco to Spokane. It is said to be
+the most expensively and scientifically built road in the United States,
+having curves and grades reduced to a minimum, being, in fact, a
+continuous descent from near Spokane to tide-water. Its builders evidently
+expect stupendous traffic, and every feature of the line is adjusted to
+such expectation.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img25.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">A Typical Lumber Camp.<br />Photo. by Trueman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Any account of the great railroads joining the Inland Empire to the River
+and thence to the seaboard would be incomplete without reference to the
+pioneer of them all, the &#8220;Strap-iron&#8221; narrow-gauge from Walla Walla to
+Wallula. This line was forced by the exigencies of the times, but it
+commemorates the rare commercial foresight and ability of a man, who, in
+native business genius, ranks with the foremost in the history of the
+Columbia Valley. This man was Dr. D. S. Baker, a native of Illinois, an
+immigrant to the Columbia in 1848, and a settler in Walla Walla in 1860.
+Perceiving the vast latent resources of the Inland Empire, he invested in
+land, founded a bank, became a partner in a store, and during much of the
+time was also actively engaged in his profession of medicine.</p>
+
+<p>In 1863, the Oregon Steam Navigation Company was running boats from
+Portland to Lewiston, over four hundred miles, having short railroad
+portages at the Cascades and The Dalles. That was the most active era of
+the mines in Idaho. Rates from Portland to up-river points were as
+follows: freight from Portland to Wallula, $50.00 per ton; to Lewiston,
+$90.00; fare from Portland to Wallula, $18.00; to Lewiston, $28.00. (The
+rates had been much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> higher a year or two earlier.) From Wallula to Walla
+Walla, freight was hauled by prairie-schooners at from $10.00 to $12.00 a
+ton, thirty miles. Needless to say, the company piled up a fortune.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Baker saw the possibilities of the region and, almost unaided, with
+every difficulty and discouragement, constructed a narrow gauge, with
+wooden rails, on which strap-iron was fastened. An astonishing amount of
+business was soon developed, steel rails were substituted, and the
+business made a fortune for its builder. It was absorbed by the Oregon
+Steam Navigation Company. But Dr. Baker&#8217;s strap-iron road may be
+considered the true progenitor of the railroads of the upper Columbia.</p>
+
+<p>During these first years of the twentieth century, the shores of the River
+have echoed with the sound of whistles on many a new road, but the
+distinguishing mark has been the construction of electric roads. The lower
+Willamette Valley, centring at Portland, has become fairly swarming with
+electric roads. Spokane has become almost an equal centre of electric
+lines, while Walla Walla is following close behind her larger sisters in
+the procession. When lines already constructed from Spokane southward are
+joined to a system projected from Walla Walla northward and westward,
+there will be a complete system of independent electric lines from all
+parts of Eastern Washington and North-eastern Oregon to steamboat
+connections on the River, and thence to tide-water. The significance of
+this as a commercial fact cannot be realised as yet.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img26.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">A Logging Railroad, near Astoria.<br />Photo. by Woodfield.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII</h3>
+<p class="chapter">The Present Age of Expansion and World Commerce</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Population and Productions of the Region on the River and its
+Tributaries&mdash;Extent of its Navigability&mdash;Improvements Needed&mdash;Kinds of
+Traffic&mdash;Local Traffic&mdash;Transcontinental Traffic&mdash;World
+Traffic&mdash;Advantages of the River Route for these Kinds of Traffic&mdash;The
+Bar&mdash;The Competition of Puget Sound&mdash;The Combination of River Route
+and Sound Route.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">We</span> have traced the successive eras which have brought the land of the
+Oregon from a wilderness to a group of powerful young American States,
+abounding in resources and filled to the brim with hope and enthusiasm. We
+have followed the River through its eras of canoe, bateau, flatboat,
+sail-ship, and steamboat, and we have seen railroads built along its
+banks. It remains only to cast a brief final glance at the River in its
+present age, and to forecast something of what seems its sure future.</p>
+
+<p>It may be said that the population of those parts of Oregon, Washington,
+Idaho, Wyoming, and Montana, which are embraced in the watershed of the
+Columbia, is probably nearly a million and a quarter. The population of
+the area in British Columbia is scanty, but rapidly increasing.</p>
+
+<p>The productive capacity is very great. A rough<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> estimate of production in
+the valley of the Columbia for the year 1908 would probably give a grain
+production of seventy million bushels, a lumber output of three billion
+feet, a mineral output worth sixty million dollars, and a combined output
+of pastoral, horticultural, fishing, and miscellaneous industries of fifty
+millions of dollars.</p>
+
+<p>Such figures indicate that the Columbia River is already a factor in world
+commerce. Yet its development is but begun. What is to be its part in the
+world commerce of the future?</p>
+
+<p>Inspection of a map will show that the Columbia possesses the only
+water-level route from the vast productive regions of the Inland Empire to
+the seaboard. As has been shown in the course of this volume, the River is
+navigable throughout the larger part of its course from Revelstoke in
+British Columbia to the ocean. In that distance there is one canal, with
+locks. That is at the Cascades, sixty-five miles from Portland. Before the
+River can be continuously navigable it will be necessary that a canal be
+constructed to overcome the obstructions at the Dalles, a few miles above
+the city of that name, another at Priest Rapids, seventy miles above
+Pasco, and still another at Kettle Falls. The Government is already
+engaged in the first of these works. The second seems comparatively near
+of accomplishment by reason of work done and projected by a powerful
+irrigation company. Nothing has yet been done at Kettle Falls, but it
+would be comparatively a light task to provide canal and locks at that
+point. Besides these larger obstructions there are several rapids at
+points between Kettle Falls and the Dalles which impede navigation at
+certain stages<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> of water. The Government has made surveys of these
+sections of the River, and has announced that with comparatively small
+outlay the rocks and reefs may be removed, the channels deepened and
+straightened, and the River made navigable. One thing may be emphasised in
+this connection, and this is that the Columbia River has mainly a rocky
+bed, and hence work on the channels is permanent. It will not cut and
+fill, nor pile up islands and bars as does the Missouri.</p>
+
+<p>In view of the capability of the River to carry great water traffic, and
+in view of the fact that railroad traffic is seeking and will still more
+seek the down-hill grade to the sea, it becomes a question of great
+interest what the future commerce of the River will be.</p>
+
+<p>It is evident that there will be three kinds of traffic: local,
+transcontinental, world-wide. Each is bound to be vast beyond the
+calculations or even the imagination of the present. The local traffic is
+sure to be immense, for it is estimated that there is a million acres of
+land immediately contiguous to the River, irrigable and adapted to
+intensive farming. Present experience shows that five or ten acres of such
+land are sufficient to support a family. Many cities and towns are sure to
+grow upon the banks of the River. Its banks will sometime become populated
+like those of ancient Nile. Besides the immediate region of the River,
+there are millions upon millions of acres of land more remote, the great
+wheat fields and stock ranges and valley lands of tributary streams, and
+these broad areas will seek the river route. Much of this immense local
+traffic of the future will be conveyed by steamboats and barges.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span>The second class of traffic will be the transcontinental. All the
+railroads across the continent, except those down the Columbia, are
+obliged to climb the Cascade Mountains, four thousand feet or more in
+height. With difficulty two powerful locomotives pull a freight train of
+forty cars up the grades, and at some points even a third is needed. But a
+single locomotive will pull eighty cars on the level grades of the River
+roads. In the even keener competition bound to come, this advantage of
+grades and curves will be a factor of immense importance.</p>
+
+<p>The third class of future commerce is the world-wide. No western American
+can contemplate the future of the world without being persuaded that the
+Pacific Ocean and its shores will be the scene of the greatest problems of
+the twentieth century. If this prove true, that world commerce of the
+Pacific will seek that point of the American continent which most swiftly
+and cheaply communicates with the eastern side of the continent and with
+Europe. Granting that a large part of world commerce will pass through the
+Panama Canal, there will still be, without question, an immense trade
+between the Orient and such points in our own country as are so far from
+the Atlantic seaboard that a transcontinental route is a necessity.
+Moreover, even for our Atlantic seaboard and for Europe, there will be
+large amounts of products, for the transit of which time will be a great
+object. Hence we may be sure that there will be extensive world commerce
+across the American continent. If so, where will it cross? Inspection of a
+globe demonstrates that the Columbia River route is shortest, and, for
+reasons already given, it is cheapest of all.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span>Puget Sound is its only present competitor. But the water-grade through
+the Cascade Mountains, along the banks of the Columbia, constitutes an
+advantage beyond the reach of permanent competition. Here, however, the
+critic comes in and claims that the Bar at the mouth of the River forbids
+entrance of the largest ships. This in a measure is true, though the
+difficulties of the Columbia Bar have been grossly exaggerated. There are
+over twenty-five feet of water on the Bar at the lowest tide. The
+flood-tide adds from six to twelve feet. In any ordinary weather, forty
+feet of water is safe enough for any vessel. But if marine architecture is
+going to keep pace with growing commerce, we may soon have ships drawing
+forty or fifty feet of water. If so, the Bar may indeed seriously block
+the heaviest commerce. Some observers have, therefore, believed that the
+big freights of the future will enter the Straits of Fuca, go to some one
+of the Puget Sound ports, thence pass by rail across the low tract of
+country between the Sound and the Columbia River, and proceed thence by
+the River route to the interior and eastward. This would combine the
+advantages of the two great routes of the Pacific North-west, abundant
+depth of water, low altitudes, and easy grades. This would, in truth, come
+nearest to realising the dream of the old navigators, the Strait of Anian.
+In any event, the future world will look to our River as the goal of
+markets as well as of vision, and as a highway of nations both for
+freights and for tourists.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="PART_II" id="PART_II"></a>PART II<br />
+A Journey Down the River</h2>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_2.I" id="CHAPTER_2.I"></a>CHAPTER I</h3>
+<p class="chapter">In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Extent of Navigation on the River&mdash;Attractions of a Canoe Journey&mdash;The
+Canadian Pacific Railroad&mdash;Banff and Lake Louise&mdash;Summit of the
+Rockies&mdash;The Continental Divide and its Western Descent&mdash;Field and the
+Wapta River&mdash;Golden and the Upper Columbia&mdash;Peculiar Interlocking of
+the Columbia and the Kootenai, and Professor Dawson&#8217;s Explanation of
+this&mdash;Views of the Selkirks and the Rockies&mdash;Some Steamboat Men and
+their Tales&mdash;Captain Armstrong&#8217;s Adventures on the Kootenai&mdash;The
+Picture Rocks&mdash;Lake Windermere&mdash;The Location of the Old Thompson
+Fort&mdash;Baptiste Morigeau and his Stories of Pioneer Days&mdash;The War
+between the Shuswaps and the Okanogans&mdash;Down the River from
+Golden&mdash;Rapids and Navigation&mdash;By the Canadian Pacific through the
+Selkirks&mdash;Glacier and the Illecillewaet&mdash;Revelstoke and the River
+again&mdash;Wise Management of the Canadian Government and the Railroad.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">A journey</span> upon the River may best begin with its source and end with the
+ocean. It is about fourteen hundred miles by the windings of the stream
+from its origin in the upper Columbia Lake to the Pacific. It descends
+twenty-five hundred feet in that distance. It is therefore swift in many
+places. Yet it would be possible to descend almost the entire length of
+the River in a small boat. Nor can one imagine a more fascinating journey,
+especially if he could conjure back the shades of the great <i>voyageurs</i> of
+seventy years ago, as Monique and Charlefoux, famous in Dr. McLoughlin&#8217;s
+time,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> and listen to their gay song, mingling with the plash of oars:</p>
+
+<p class="poem">Rouli, roulant, ma boule roulant,<br />
+En roulant, ma boule roulant.</p>
+
+<p>The way of approach for the Eastern tourist to a journey down the Columbia
+is by the Canadian Pacific Railway, a magnificent road in a gallery of
+masterpieces. Wonders begin before he reaches the western watershed. He
+will see Banff, with its hot springs, its immense hotel, its Bow River and
+Falls and Valley. He will see the gem of the Canadian Rockies, one of the
+gems of the earth, Lake Louise. Imagine a glistening wall of purest white,
+Mts. Lefroy and Victoria, with a vast glacier descending from them, great
+bastions of variously tinted rock closing on either side as a frame of the
+snowy picture, and in front a lake, small indeed, but of perfect form, a
+mirror in which the snowy wall, the glacier, the rocky ramparts, find a
+duplication as distinct as themselves.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles farther west, and the traveller will find himself at one of
+the most significant of all places, the Continental Divide. Eastward the
+water flows into the Bow, thence into the Saskatchewan, and ultimately
+into the Atlantic. Westward the springs find their way to the branches of
+the Wapta, thence to the Columbia and the Pacific. The long westward
+ascent which we have followed all the way from Winnipeg ends at last. The
+track becomes level. We are at the summit. Looking southward we can see
+descending the steep slope, a clear mountain stream, which is parted into
+two branches by a little wall of stone. One branch goes east to the
+Atlantic, the other west to the Pacific.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span>It must have been of some such place, though farther north, that Holmes
+was imagining when he wrote:</p>
+
+<p class="poem">Yon stream, whose sources run<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Turned by a pebble&#8217;s edge,</span><br />
+Is Athabasca, rolling toward the sun,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Through the cleft mountain-ledge.</span><br />
+<br />
+The slender rill had strayed<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But for the slanting stone,</span><br />
+To evening&#8217;s ocean, with the tangled braid<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Of foam-flecked Oregon.</span></p>
+
+<p>At the parting of the streams, a pretty rustic framework has been erected,
+bearing the words, &#8220;The Continental Divide.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>We are now on the Columbia&#8217;s waters. We are also in the heart of the
+Canadian Rockies, and in the midst of a perfect sea of mountains. It has
+been said that British Columbia is &#8220;fifty or sixty Switzerlands rolled
+into one.&#8221; Here are five distinct ridges, up and down, and through and
+around which, the Columbia and its affluents chase each other in a dizzy
+dance.</p>
+
+<p>The descent of the west side of the Divide is appallingly steep. From
+Stephen to Field is a drop of one thousand two hundred and fifty-seven
+feet in ten miles. In that distance are several places which reach two
+hundred and thirty-six feet to the mile. Most explicit directions are
+given to engineers in respect to handling trains on this grade. A speed of
+only six miles an hour is allowed, and frequent stops and tests of
+air-brakes and signals are required. By reason of the exceeding care, no
+serious accident has ever occurred. In ascending three locomotives are
+required for an ordinary train.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span>There are several splendid resorts on the line of the Canadian railroad.
+Banff and Lake Louise are the resorts on the east side of the Divide. The
+first one west of that point is Field. There, as at all the other resorts,
+the hotels are managed by the Canadian Pacific Railroad Company. They are
+conducted with great skill and elegance, and may well be regarded as a
+tribute to the business ability and artistic taste of the managers.</p>
+
+<p>As we descend the steep grade from Stephen to Field, we catch glimpses of
+peak after peak, range after range, valley after valley, glacier after
+glacier, purple, saffron, red, dazzling white, glistening greens and
+blues. Mt. Stephen lifts its great wall over a mile of almost
+perpendicular height, and nearly opposite is the spire of Mt. Burgess.
+Mountain wonders and attractions of every sort lie in all directions from
+Field. Perhaps the finest is Yoho Valley. There are the Takkakaw Falls,
+twelve hundred feet high. There is the Wapta Glacier, itself a part of a
+prodigious ice-field, known as Wahputekh, lying between the towering
+heights of Mts. Gordon, Balfour, and Tralltinderne.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Field, the road runs between two chains of mountains, the
+Ottertail on the north and the Van Horne on the south. The former is bold
+and spire-like in outline, with the snow-fields and ice pinnacles of Mt.
+Goodwin closing the vista. The latter is less bold in contour, but has a
+colouring of yellow rock-slopes in beautiful contrast with the rich purple
+of the lower forests.</p>
+
+<p>Passing between those sublime mountain chains, we soon plunge into the
+Wapta ca&ntilde;on, with its <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span>perpendicular walls of rock rising hundreds of
+feet on either side. The Wapta is more commonly known as the Kicking
+Horse. It received that name in this wise. The Palliser exploring
+expedition of 1858 had been seeking unsuccessfully a feasible route
+through the Rockies. In the progress of the search, Sir James Hector, then
+in charge of the party, pitched camp on the Wapta. While there a vicious
+horse kicked him with such effect that he was left on the ground
+apparently dead. The three Indians with him had, in fact, dug his grave.
+But while they were conveying him to it, he suddenly came to himself.
+Having recovered, he became curious to follow the stream where he had met
+with the disaster. As a result he discovered the ca&ntilde;on and a short route
+through the main chain. Upon the pass he bestowed the name of &#8220;Kicking
+Horse,&#8221; and this has latterly been bestowed upon the river itself. The
+river is one of the most remarkable of the tributaries of the upper
+Columbia. It drains a cordon of glaciated peaks, from which it bears a
+vast volume of water, foaming and frothing with frequent cataracts down
+the steep descent, from fifty to a hundred feet to the mile.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img27.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Natural Bridge Kicking Horse or Wapta River, and Mt. Stephen, B. C.<br />Photo. by C. F. Yates.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img28.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Sunrise on Columbia River, near Washougal.<br />(Copyright, 1902, by Kiser Photograph Co.)</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Forty-five miles west of the Divide we reach Golden on the Columbia. It is
+indeed a thrilling moment to the traveller when he first sets eyes upon
+these head-waters of the River of the West. Golden is a pleasant little
+town, a hundred and fifty miles below the upper Columbia Lake and twelve
+hundred and fifty by the windings of the River from its destination in the
+Pacific.</p>
+
+<p>At Golden we must pause and make ready for our first journey on the River.
+The greater part of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> tourist travel passes by Golden, not realising
+that between that pretty town and the lakes lie some of the most charming
+scenes in all the vast play-ground of British Columbia.</p>
+
+<p>We find at Golden several steamboats in command of captains who are very
+princes of good fellows, as Captain Armstrong of the <i>Ptarmigan</i> and
+Captain Blakeney of the <i>Isabel</i>, with whom we may journey from Golden to
+Lake Windermere. Over the hundred miles between these two points the
+Columbia is a slack-water stream, having a descent of but fifty feet in
+the distance from the extreme head waters to Golden. Over considerable
+part of this distance the River runs in bayous. These bayous or channels
+wind their serpentine courses through low flats, flooded at high water,
+and exposing fair expanses of vivid green at the subsidence of the waters.</p>
+
+<p>Professor Dawson, the eminent Canadian geologist, made a study of this
+section of the River some years before his death, and as a result
+expressed the opinion that the section of the Columbia above the mouth of
+Blue River, some thirty miles below Golden, formerly united with the
+Kootenai. But owing to some convulsion of nature, the surface was tilted
+just sufficiently to turn the section of the stream from Columbia Lake
+toward the north instead of the south, with the result that we have this
+slack-water system of lagoons and lakes constituting this marvellously
+picturesque division of the River. Now in confirmation of this theory of
+Professor Dawson we have in the relations of the Columbia and Kootenai the
+singular geographical phenomenon already referred to in an earlier
+chapter. The Kootenai runs through &#8220;Canal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> Flats,&#8221; in which the upper
+Columbia Lake is situated, and comes within a mile of that lake. It is
+nine feet higher than the lake, but there is no high land there, and at
+one time a canal joined the Kootenai with the lake. This canal was wrecked
+in the great flood of 1894, but steamboats had run through it from the
+Kootenai to the Columbia, and it would be entirely feasible to reconstruct
+it. After having thus passed within a mile of each other and evidently
+having once been actually connected, the two rivers part company. The
+Columbia flows north and the Kootenai south. Each makes a vast bend. Again
+they reverse directions, the Columbia flowing south and the Kootenai
+north, and then come together many miles from their point of separation.</p>
+
+<p>Aside from the unique beauty of the lagoons and the grassy shores, the eye
+of the traveller is delighted with the two mountain chains which confront
+each other across those glassy channels throughout the entire stretch from
+Golden to Windermere. On the east side is the main chain of the Rockies,
+and on the west are the Selkirks.</p>
+
+<p>As we proceed on the deep, still stream, gliding from channel to channel,
+we may find ourselves mightily entertained by the conversation of such a
+navigator as Captain Armstrong or Captain Blakeney. For each can command a
+fund of historical and descriptive matter of rare interest.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Armstrong was one of the earliest pilots on the Kootenai. In 1894
+he built the <i>North Star</i> at Jennings, Montana, ran her up the wild stream
+to Canal Flats, thence through the canal to the Columbia lakes, and into
+the River itself. A more exquisite<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> stretch of river navigation than that
+through Columbia Lake, Lake Adela, and Lake Windermere, and from them into
+the lagoons of the River, can scarcely be found or even imagined, and it
+was the lot of the <i>North Star</i> to ply upon that route until her unhappy
+destruction by fire in 1900.</p>
+
+<p>There is little danger of accident on the placid water of the uppermost
+Columbia, but it is far different on the Kootenai. We heard many a tale of
+steamboating adventure from these pilots.</p>
+
+<p>One of these so well illustrates those old-time conditions that we repeat
+here its chief points. Captain Armstrong owned two steamers, the <i>Ruth</i>
+and the <i>Gwendoline</i>. Both were engaged in transporting freight by way of
+Jennings to Fort Steele and the various mining camps in that district. The
+business was enormously profitable, for the boats received two and one
+half cents a pound. At that particular time there were twenty-six cars on
+the Great Northern Railway awaiting shipments.</p>
+
+<p>From his two steamers Captain Armstrong sometimes made two thousand
+dollars a day in gross receipts. But though profitable, the business was
+also correspondingly risky. The Jennings Ca&ntilde;on, above Bonner&#8217;s Ferry, is,
+perhaps, the worst piece of water that has ever been navigated on the
+Columbia or its tributaries. A strip of water, foaming-white, down-hill
+almost as on a steep roof, hardly wider than the steamboat, savage-looking
+rocks waiting to catch hold of any unwary craft that might venture
+through,&mdash;so forbidding in fact was that route that Captain Armstrong
+found no insurance agent that felt disposed to insure his boats and cargo.
+At last he induced a San<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> Francisco agent to make the trip with him and
+to offer a rate. After sitting in silence on the deck while the steamer
+whirled down the Jennings Ca&ntilde;on, the agent stated that his rate would be
+twenty-five per cent. of the cargo. The daring captain decided to take the
+risk himself. He had made a number of trips with entire success and
+immense profit. But just at the height of the season, when the twenty-six
+cars were on the track and a sack full of gold was waiting for him, the
+captain got into too much of a hurry. He was running the <i>Gwendoline</i>; one
+of his best pilots, the <i>Ruth</i>. The <i>Ruth</i> was ahead. Both were making
+their best possible time down the ca&ntilde;on to get a cargo. Captain Armstrong,
+at the wheel of the <i>Gwendoline</i>, was whizzing down the ca&ntilde;on at a rate
+which made stopping impossible, when to his dismay he saw the <i>Ruth</i> right
+ahead of him in a narrow turn, lying across the channel, wedged in the
+rocks. To stop was impossible. To select any comfortable landing-place was
+equally so. The <i>Gwendoline</i> piled right on top of the <i>Ruth</i>. Both were
+total wrecks, without a dollar of insurance. A two-thousand-dollar cargo
+gone in five minutes, to say nothing of boats and business that could not
+be replaced and a fortune within grasp that would never be so near again.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img29.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Lake Windermere, Upper Columbia, where David Thompson&#8217;s Fort was Built in 1810.<br />Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>But such were the risks of steamboating on the Kootenai.</p>
+
+<p>There are two historical notes of special interest to be made in
+connection with the journey to Windermere. One of these is a prehistoric
+drawing in some kind of red pigment on the smooth surface of a rock on the
+upper Columbia Lake. It seems to represent a battle scene, and, though
+rude, denotes some conception of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> picture art. The Indians think that it
+was made prior to Indian times. Apparently it belongs to the same order of
+pictures as the drawings on the rocks of Lake Chelan and other places in
+the north-west, furnishing a worthy theme for the antiquarian.</p>
+
+<p>The other object of historical interest is the remains of the temporary
+fort built by David Thompson of the North-west Fur Company in 1810.
+Thompson crossed the Rockies in that year in order to descend the Columbia
+and gain possession of its territory for his fur company. He was a brave,
+intelligent, and enterprising man with considerable knowledge of
+astronomy. But he waited one season too long. For, finding it late in the
+year 1810 when he had reached the sources of the Columbia, he decided to
+winter there and descend the River in the spring. He selected a beautiful
+spot capable of defence on all sides on Lake Windermere and there built a
+rude fort, the trench and mound of which still remain. In the spring of
+1811 he went down the river (and this was the first party to traverse the
+entire course of the Columbia) full of hope that he might take possession
+for Great Britain and the North-westers, only to find that the Astor party
+of Americans had preceded them by three months in effecting what might be
+called permanent occupation.</p>
+
+<p>This was one of the important links in the history of the control of the
+North-west. Doubt has been raised as to the authenticity of this
+Windermere location, but there are certainly the remains of mound and
+trench, and the tradition has it that here was the place of the Thompson
+party of 1810, the first place located by white men on the upper Columbia.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img30.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Mt. Burgess and Emerald Lake, One of the Sources of the Wapta River. B. C.<br />Photo. by C. F. Yates.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span>An interesting character lives on the shore of Lake Windermere in the
+person of Baptiste Morigeau. He is a man of sixty-six, the son of a French
+father and Indian mother. The father, Francis Morigeau, was born at Quebec
+in 1797, and came to the upper Columbia region as a free trapper in 1820.
+He trapped up and down the Columbia for many years, selling his catches to
+the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company, usually at Fort Colville. Baptiste was born at
+Windermere in 1842. Three years after that the father with his numerous
+family went to Colville. He had a number of horses and cattle, a large
+supply of valuable furs, ammunition, and traps. He located at Colville at
+just the right time. For, having taken up a large body of the rich land in
+that valley, he began raising hay and grain. His stock increased. He was
+surrounded with every species of rude plenty, and just at the most
+profitable time for him the gold discoveries began in 1854, followed the
+next year by the great Indian war. The fat cattle, the horses, the grain,
+hay, and vegetables of the Morigeaus were in great and immediate demand.
+Money came in to them by the handful. Baptiste states that they took in
+one hundred and fifty thousand dollars during the five years of Indian
+wars and settlement. Their lives were often in peril, but with good
+fortune, aided by their own connection with the natives, they escaped any
+serious harm.</p>
+
+<p>On one occasion Indians were about to plunder them of their valuables and
+take possession of the barn where several of the family were thrashing
+grain with flails, when the oldest son, Aleck, suddenly turned his flail
+upon the marauders. So vigorously<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> did he lay about him and so astonished
+were the Indians at the novel assault that they gave way and retreated.</p>
+
+<p>Morigeau told us the interesting fact that there were practically no
+Indians living in the Windermere district until about a century ago. At
+that time some branches of the Shuswaps and of the Kootenais came in.
+Their relations were usually very amicable, but between the Shuswaps and
+the Okanogans was deadly and long-continued enmity. This was ended in a
+curious and interesting manner by the following event. The Shuswaps had
+captured the only daughter of the Okanogan chief. She was led with other
+captives into the Shuswap camp. The boasting warriors were gloating over
+the poor victim, and the squaws were discussing the greatest possible
+indignities and tortures for her, when an aged, white-haired chief got the
+attention of the crowd. He declared that his heart had been opened, and
+that he now saw that torture and death ought to end. He proposed that
+instead of shame and torture they should confer honour on the chieftain&#8217;s
+child. He said: &#8220;I can hear the old chief and his squaw weeping all the
+night for their lost daughter.&#8221; He then proposed that they adorn the
+captive with flowers, put her in a procession, with all the chiefs loaded
+with presents, and restore her to her father.</p>
+
+<p>The girl meanwhile, who did not understand a word of the language, was
+awaiting torture or death. What was her astonishment to find herself
+decorated with honour, and sent with the gift-laden chiefs toward her
+father&#8217;s camp. On the next day the mourning chief of the Okanogans and his
+wife, looking<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> from their desolate lodge, saw a large procession
+approaching, and they said: &#8220;They are coming to demand a ransom.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img31.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Bonnington Falls in Kootenai River, near Nelson.<br />Photo by Allan Lean.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>As the procession drew nearer, one of their men said that it looked like a
+woman adorned with flowers in the midst of the men with presents of robes
+and necklaces. Then they cried out: &#8220;It is our child, and she is restored
+to us.&#8221; So they met the procession with rejoicing and heard the speech of
+the old Shuswap chief. And after that there was peace between the Shuswaps
+and the Okanogans.</p>
+
+<p>Having returned from Lake Windermere to Golden by small boat,&mdash;one of the
+most charming of all water trips,&mdash;we are prepared to make a new start
+down the River.</p>
+
+<p>The River from Golden holds a general north-westerly course to its highest
+northern point in latitude 52 degrees. There having received its northmost
+tributary, Canoe River, a furious mountain stream, it makes a grand wheel
+southward, forming what is known as the Big Bend. This section of the
+River was navigated by the bateaux of the trappers and the canoes of the
+Indians. There are, however, several bad rapids, of which Surprise Rapids,
+Kimbasket Rapids, and Death Rapids, are the worst. These cannot be passed
+by steamboats. The <i>voyageurs</i> seem to have run them sometimes, though
+they ordinarily made portages. A Golden steamboat captain assures us that
+none but fools ever ran Death Rapids,&mdash;and they were mostly drowned.</p>
+
+<p>The Canadian Pacific Railroad follows the Columbia from Golden to
+Beavermouth, then turns up the Beaver to cross the Selkirk Mountains. The
+Beaver<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> is a magnificent mountain stream, and from the railroad, high on
+the mountain side, the traveller can at many points look down hundreds of
+feet upon the river. Though the Selkirks are not quite so high as the main
+chain of the Rockies, they are even grander. The snowfall is materially
+greater in the Selkirks, and the glaciers are vast in extent. It is said
+that the snowfall at Glacier averages thirty-five feet during the winter,
+and that it lies from four to eight feet deep from October to April. There
+are thirty immense snowsheds on this section of the railroad.</p>
+
+<p>Glacier is the great resort in the Selkirks. This splendid resort has
+attractions in some respects superior to those of Banff, Lake Louise, or
+Field. It is in the very heart of the Selkirks. The Great Glacier is only
+a mile and a half distant, a glacier which is said to cover an area of two
+hundred square miles; more than all the glaciers of Switzerland combined.
+From the watch tower at Glacier, this mass of ice, twisted and contorted,
+with all the colours of the rainbow playing upon it, is one of those
+visions of elemental force which only great mountains reveal. Like all the
+glaciers of the Northern Hemisphere, this is receding at a rapid rate. A
+record on the rock indicates the point to which the ice attained in July,
+1887, and the ice is now over seven hundred feet distant from that point.</p>
+
+<p>The Asulkan Glacier is a more beautiful sight, as viewed from Abbott
+rampart, than the Great Glacier. Every traveller should climb the trail to
+Abbott in order to get that sight. And with it he will view the twin peaks
+of Castor and Pollux yet farther south, while to the north the splendid
+peaks of Cheops, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span>Hermit, and Cougar dominate the majestic wilderness.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img32.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Bridge Creek, a Tributary of Lake Chelan, Wash.<br />Photo. by F. N. Kneeland, Northampton, Mass.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>But the most striking single sight is the granite monolith of Sir Donald.
+This is almost a counterpart of the Matterhorn of Switzerland, though not
+so high. It rises in one huge block to a height of 10,808 feet. It has
+been climbed, though this is one of the most daring and difficult of
+climbs. From the dizzy spire there is visible a perfect map of peaks,
+rivers, valleys, and lakes. It is said that a hundred and twenty glaciers
+can be seen.</p>
+
+<p>From Sir Donald and the Great Glacier issues the Illecillewaet River,
+well-named, for this means the &#8220;swift flowing.&#8221; From its source in the
+Great Glacier to its entrance of the Columbia it descends thirty-five
+hundred feet in forty-five miles. It is swift. One of the most interesting
+places on this section of the road is the &#8220;Loops,&#8221; a place where the track
+has to descend five hundred and twenty-two feet in seven miles. To
+accomplish this, it has been carried in a &#8220;double S&#8221; around the bases of
+Mts. Ross and Bonney. So close are the tracks that the two parts of the
+loop a mile in length are not more than eighty feet apart, one being
+almost perpendicularly above the other. Some miles farther down is the
+Albert Ca&ntilde;on on the Illecillewaet. On this point the distinction has been
+conferred of a complete pause of the train, while from it the passengers
+hasten to a platform to gaze down the perpendicular walls three hundred
+feet to the white torrent tearing its way through the rock.</p>
+
+<p>Soon Revelstoke is reached, and we are again on the navigable waters of
+the Columbia. Every traveller, as he leaves the line of the Canadian
+Pacific <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span>Railroad, must pay his tribute of respect to the skill, energy,
+and intelligence with which this superb road is conducted. It has been
+said that English money supplied this road, Scotch energy built it, and
+Irish keenness and adaptability run it. Sir Thomas Shaughnessey, the
+manager, is certainly entitled to the respect and gratitude of thousands
+of tourists.</p>
+
+<p>With the railroad, all tourists will associate the Canadian Park managers.
+The Canadian Government is a singularly intelligent one. It has grasped
+the possibilities in these vast and varied scenic charms, and has used
+exceedingly good judgment in rendering them accessible to the travelling
+public. This entire mountain area bordering the railroad, to an extent of
+five thousand seven hundred and thirty-two square miles, has been set
+apart as a park, in charge of the Department of the Interior. Superb roads
+are constructed in available places, and improvements are continually in
+progress about the springs and falls and lakes and other points of
+interest. The Government, in fact, exercises entire control, but grants
+concessions to the railroad company in the matter of hotels and other
+conveniences.</p>
+
+<p>As we bid good-bye to the Canadian Rockies, we may say that perhaps the
+world offers nowhere else such a sea of mountains, such knots and clusters
+and cordons of elevations, as in this strange and sublime region where the
+Columbia and its tributaries, the Kootenai, the Illecillewaet, the Wapta,
+the Beaver, the Canoe, seem to be playing hide-and-seek with the Thompson
+and the Fraser. There are not less than five distinct snowy ridges between
+the head waters of the Saskatchewan and the Pacific Ocean. The existence<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span>
+of this immense watershed of snowy mountains accounts for the vast volume
+of the Columbia. Although not half as long as the Mississippi, the
+Columbia equals it in volume.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img33.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Kootenai Lake, from Proctor, B. C.<br />Photo. by Allan Lean.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Well joined, in truth, are the sublime River and the sublime mountains.
+One cannot fully understand the River unless he has seen its cradle and
+the cradle of its affluents beneath the shadows of the great peaks of
+British Columbia.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_2.II" id="CHAPTER_2.II"></a>CHAPTER II</h3>
+<p class="chapter">The Lakes from the Arrow Lakes to Chelan</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">The Lake Plateau&mdash;The Glacial Origin of the Lakes&mdash;Down the Arrow
+Lakes from Revelstoke&mdash;The Fine Steamers&mdash;Characteristics of the
+Scenery&mdash;By Rail from Robson to Nelson&mdash;Agricultural, Mineral, and
+Lumbering Resources around Nelson&mdash;Kootenai Lake and its Charms&mdash;On
+the River from Robson to Kettle Falls&mdash;Historic Features around Kettle
+Falls&mdash;On Lakes C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene, Pend Oreille, and Kaniksu in Northern
+Idaho&mdash;From Kettle Falls to Chelan&mdash;Appearance of Chelan River&mdash;First
+View of the Lake&mdash;Delights of a Boat Ride up the Lake&mdash;Comparison of
+Chelan with other Great Scenes&mdash;Storm on the Lake&mdash;Goat
+Mountain&mdash;Views from Railroad Creek&mdash;The Red Drawings&mdash;Rainbow Falls
+and Stehekin Ca&ntilde;on&mdash;The Wrecked Cabin and its Story&mdash;Railroad Creek
+and North Star Park&mdash;Cloudy Pass and Glacier Peak.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">In</span> the progress of our journey down the River on the route of the old-time
+fur brigades, we have passed over what may be considered the first two
+stages of the stream. The first is the lagoon-like expanse of the section
+from Canal Flats to Golden, one hundred and fifty miles. The second is the
+more swift and turbulent part from Golden to Revelstoke, two hundred and
+fifty miles. At the latter place we enter upon a third stage of the River,
+the lake stage.</p>
+
+<p>The region of the lakes constitutes one of the most unique and delightful
+of all parts of the River. Let the reader consult the map and he will find
+an area of probably one hundred thousand square miles in British Columbia,
+Washington, Idaho, and Montana filled with lakes. This lake region
+constitutes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> a plateau, crossed indeed by mountains and somewhat rough in
+surface, but of a uniform general elevation. It constitutes a sort of
+debatable region between the two great slopes, one from the Rocky summits
+to the lakes and the other from the lakes to tide-water. On those slopes
+the white waters of cataract and rapid are found; on the plateau, the
+deep, still lakes. A glance at the map reveals the fact that the larger of
+
+these lakes are long and narrow, and lie on north and south lines. A
+journey on them reveals the fact that they are deep and clear and cold.
+Join these facts with the additional one that they are surrounded by snowy
+mountains, and you have no difficulty in deciding their origin. They are
+glacial. At some time in the glacial ages, stupendous ploughshares of ice
+descending from Rockies, Selkirks, Gold Range, Cascades, and Bitter Roots,
+gouged out profound ca&ntilde;ons in the rents already wrought by earthquakes,
+and these became the lake beds.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img34.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Lower Arrow Lake, B. C.<br />Photo. by Allan Lean, Nelson.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Each one of the branches of the River in this plateau region has one or
+more of these expansions. On the Columbia itself are the Arrow Lakes.
+Kootenai Lake is an enlargement of the River of the same name. Okanogan
+Lake is likewise an expansion of its river. Christina Lake is the source
+of Kettle River. The Slocan River derives its icy torrents from Slocan
+Lake. Flathead, Kaniksu, and Pend Oreille lakes feed Clark&#8217;s Fork, now
+more commonly known in its lower section as Pend Oreille River. C&oelig;ur
+d&#8217;Alene Lake supplies the Spokane River. Chelan pours its cold flood into
+the Columbia through a river of the same sweet sounding name. Wenatchee
+Lake gives life to the Wenatchee River.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span>We find at Revelstoke that the chief current of tourist travel follows the
+main line of the Canadian Pacific Railroad. Nevertheless, there is a
+rapidly increasing movement of travellers on the branch by steamboat over
+the Arrow Lakes and the Kootenai to what is known as the Crow&#8217;s Nest line
+from Spokane to Calgary, Winnipeg, and other points east.</p>
+
+<p>The Canadian Pacific line has excellent steamers, the <i>Rossland</i>, the
+<i>Kootenai</i>, the <i>Kaslo</i>, the <i>Kuskanook</i>, and others of similar grade. The
+journey on the <i>Rossland</i> or <i>Kootenai</i> down the Arrow Lakes from
+Arrowhead to Robson is one to dream of, one to recall in waking hours, and
+even, we almost suspect, in another life. The two lakes together
+constitute one hundred and thirty miles of steamboating, and every mile
+has its special charm. It was the peculiar joy of the <i>voyageurs</i>, after
+having toiled over the snowy and wind-swept Athabasca Pass and buffeted
+the foamy descent of Death Rapids, to reach the Arrow Lakes and lazily
+paddle down their tranquil deeps. In fact, pleasant as is our journey on
+the <i>Rossland</i>, we would rather reconstruct the bateaux of 1840 and in
+them make the whole long journey to the sea, a thousand miles away.</p>
+
+<p>The traveller learns from the captain, if he can persuade that busy
+personage to indulge in conversation, that the Arrow Lakes derived their
+name from the fact that in early times great bundles of arrows could be
+seen stuck in the clay banks or in the crevices of the rocks at the head
+of the upper lake. The upper Arrow Lake has mountain banks rising
+thousands of feet to the zone of eternal snow. The shores are usually
+precipitous, though it is not uncommon to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> see smooth slopes furnishing
+timbered margins to enchanting little bays. At various places along the
+shores we see the beginnings of fruit and dairy ranches. It is only within
+four or five years that anything has been done here in the way of
+cultivation. The results thus far attained prove the wonderful
+adaptability of soil and climate to choice fruits. And the
+flowers,&mdash;Heaven bless them!&mdash;the sweetest and biggest and brightest of
+roses, pinks, sweet peas, larkspurs,&mdash;every kind that grows, are seen in
+profusion at almost every point where there has been any cultivation. By a
+little conversation with people at the landings we learn that the
+new-fledged ranches are very profitable. One tells us that he has made a
+net profit of two dollars and twenty-five cents per crate on his
+strawberries, or five hundred dollars an acre.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img35.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Bridal Veil Falls on Columbia River.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps the most attractive place on the Arrow Lakes is the point where
+the upper lake narrows into the stretch of fifteen miles of river joining
+the two lakes. The mountains on either hand, in great billows of forest
+green and blue, rise ever upward till they break against the eternal
+frost. The shores are clothed in dense forests, and on either hand bold
+promontories enclose sheltered bays, the very beau ideals of camping
+places.</p>
+
+<p>We find the lower Arrow Lake of a gentler type of scenery than the upper.
+The mountains no longer bear snow-peaks and glaciers on their crests, and
+there are no longer to be seen the stupendous rocky walls which in places
+enclose the upper lake. But as a compensation for the loss of this
+pre-eminent grandeur, the lower lake possesses a charm of colouring, both
+of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> water and shore, a richness of mountain outline and tints, and a
+certain serenity which may well make it an equal of its grander companion.</p>
+
+<p>At the lower end of the Arrow Lakes the steamer stops and transfers her
+freight and passengers to the trains running from Robson to Nelson. This
+is necessitated by the fact that the Kootenai River, which enters the
+Columbia just below Robson, has a descent from Nelson of over two hundred
+feet. The railroad follows the Kootenai, which almost rivals the Columbia
+in magnitude. We pass the Bonnington Falls, the noblest waterfall on the
+entire system of Columbia&#8217;s tributaries, with the exception of the Great
+Shoshone of the Snake.</p>
+
+<p>Reaching Nelson, the metropolis of this entire lake country, we find a
+bustling, active, well-built little city of seven thousand people. The
+leading industries centring at Nelson are mining and lumbering. It has
+been discovered very recently, however, that the soil and air and climate
+are peculiarly adapted to choice berries and fruits. The shores of the
+river and lake at this point are rugged and rocky, at first thought ill
+adapted to horticulture. But it is well known that rough locations produce
+choicer fruit. Between the boulders or nestling against the hillsides, the
+peach and apple take on an added blush, absorb a more delicate nectar,
+exhale a more exquisite perfume. We are told that during the season of
+1908 there were twenty thousand crates of berries, mainly strawberries,
+shipped from Nelson, at a price of two to three dollars per crate.</p>
+
+<p>In every direction from Nelson is mineral wealth of untold quantity.
+Almost every mineral known,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> gold, silver, copper, zinc, lead, to say
+nothing of every kind of fine building stone, including marble, besides
+coal and iron, is found east, west, north, and south of Nelson. The town
+itself was founded by reason of the Silver King mine, which can be seen
+high up on the mountain side south of the place. The output of these mines
+has been immense. In spite of the comparatively hard times, the output of
+the three districts of the Kootenai, Rossland, and Boundary, was estimated
+at $21,025,500 in 1907. One interesting fact connected with the mining
+industry in the lake country is that at Nelson is located an electric zinc
+smelter, the only one of the kind in the world. Zinc is found in
+association with gold, silver, and copper, and, though valuable, is quite
+an impediment to the mining of the gold and silver. This unique smelter
+works by what is called the Snyder process, an electrical system, which,
+if it accomplishes all that is hoped for, will open every mine on the
+Kootenai.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img36.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Shoshone Falls, in Snake River, 212 Feet High.<br />Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>From Nelson we find the way open by fine steamers to all parts of the
+Kootenai. This largest of all the lakes of the Columbia system, containing
+141,120 acres of surface, bears a general resemblance to the Arrow Lakes,
+clear, deep, cold, with lofty mountains on either side and vast stretches
+of purple forests crowding to the very margin of the water. This lake
+consists of three arms, northern, southern, and western. The Kootenai
+River enters by the southern and leaves by the western.</p>
+
+<p>The northern part of the Kootenai region, especially around Kaslo,
+possesses vast mineral wealth. A railroad proceeds from Kaslo to Sandon in
+the heart of the mountains, and to Slocan Lake and thence to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> Nakusp on
+the upper Arrow Lake. The scenery of Slocan Lake is even more wild and
+rugged than that of the Kootenai. Both abound in fine trout. We saw a lake
+trout at Nelson of a weight of twenty-two pounds. Ducks and geese and swan
+are common on the water, limitless grouse and pheasants are found in the
+woods, while deer, elk, and bear are common in the wild maze of mountains
+and ca&ntilde;ons;&mdash;a sportsman&#8217;s paradise.</p>
+
+<p>Tourists taking the route eastward go from Nelson on the elegant steamer
+<i>Kuskanook</i> to Kootenai Landing and there take up again the railway route
+by the Crow&#8217;s Nest. Such as desire to go to Spokane can leave the line at
+Curzon and go southward to a connection with the Spokane International.
+There is also a rail connection more directly between Nelson and Spokane
+by the Spokane and Northern. This pursues more nearly the course of the
+Columbia River, of which the traveller obtains delightful glimpses at
+intervals. But for ourselves, we would rather go by rowboat from Robson
+down the River over the historical route of the old <i>voyageurs</i>. No rail
+route compares with the water.</p>
+
+<p>The River is a superb water-way from Robson, British Columbia, to Kettle
+Falls, Washington, about ninety miles. In fact, the section of the River
+from Death Rapids above Revelstoke to Kettle Falls, including the Arrow
+Lakes, is the longest unbroken stretch of deep, still water on the entire
+River, being about three hundred miles.</p>
+
+<p>Kettle Falls, too, is a historic spot. For here was Fort Colville of the
+Americans and also the old Hudson&#8217;s Bay post. Here was the greatest
+centring of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> the fur-trade on the upper River. Here were the strongest of
+all the Catholic missions, and here were the most fertile fields and the
+earliest cultivated of any on the upper River. Here is the Colville Indian
+Reservation, and here for many years the wily and untamable old savage
+Moses herded his bands of &#8220;cuitans,&#8221; watched the incoming whites with
+jealous eye, and, as opportunity offered, made way with such wandering
+prospectors or stockmen as he could find off their guard in rocky glen or
+forest depth. (And none ever knew what became of them.) Here
+Hallakallakeen (Eagle Wing) the great Nez Perc&eacute; chief, commonly known as
+Joseph, who waged the Wallowa War of 1877 to its bitter conclusion,
+carried on the sad remnant of his days, and not far distant on the wild
+Nespilem, he held his summer camp. In all directions around Colville and
+Kettle Falls, up the Sans Poil and Kettle rivers, are opening mines and
+farms, one of the most promising sections of all the promising State of
+Washington.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img37.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Lake Pend Oreille, Idaho.<br />Photo by T. W. Tolman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img38.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Lake C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene, Idaho.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Time forbids us to visit all the lakes in this wonderful lake section. But
+we must see the most important. While at Spokane, we should not fail to
+go, by trolley or train or auto or horseback, to the greatest of all
+Spokane resorts, C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene Lake. Of its beauties and delights, and
+of the &#8220;shadowy St. Joe River,&#8221; and of the canoeing and fishing and
+hunting which may be found there galore, some of our pictures speak. And
+of them any one who has ever been there will also speak in no uncertain
+tone. It seems no whit short of the unpardonable sin to give no longer
+space to that wonderland of lakes, C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene, Pend Oreille, and
+Kaniksu, in Northern Idaho, each the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> centre of every conceivable scenic
+attraction. In their near vicinity, too, lie the great mines of the
+C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene district, the greatest silver lead mines in the world,
+whose fabulous wealth (forty million dollars a year) has built many a
+stone mansion at Spokane, or sent the prospectors of yesterday to the ends
+of the earth for the pleasure or display of to-day. But the limits of this
+chapter forbid description of these masterpieces. Though each lake has its
+individual character, there is a general similarity. All have the
+characteristics of their common glacial origin and mountainous
+surroundings.</p>
+
+<p>We may therefore make one visit and give descriptions of the one great
+inclusive scene or group of scenes which may be said to express the
+beauty, the sublimity, the wonder of the lakes of the Columbia River. And
+this one typical lake, the all-inclusive, is Chelan, &#8220;Beautiful Water.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>True to our purpose of following the River from source to sea, we turn
+back now from Spokane in order to go from Kettle Falls to Chelan by boat.
+There are no regular steamboats running from Kettle Falls to Brewster at
+the mouth of the Okanogan, but from the last named point to Wenatchee the
+steamboat is the regular and indeed only means of public travel.
+Throughout the entire course of two hundred miles from Kettle Falls to
+Wenatchee the river is wild and swift. Yet steamers have traversed the
+entire distance, and Government engineers are now engaged in surveys
+looking to improvements such as will make steamboat traffic easy and
+profitable. We pass numberless points of interest, but &#8220;Chelan, Chelan,&#8221;
+&#8220;Beautiful Water, Beautiful Water,&#8221; is our goal.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img39.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">The &#8220;Shadowy St. Joe,&#8221; Idaho.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span>We had thought that the Columbia was clear, but we did not then know what
+clear water really was. When we reach the mouth of Chelan River we know.
+We see a streak of blue cutting right across the impetuous downflow of the
+River. As we push our way into it we discover that it is so clear as to
+make little more obstruction to the view of rocks and fish below than does
+the air itself. This transparent torrent is the outlet of the lake. It is
+only four miles long and descends three hundred and eighty feet in that
+distance. It furnishes one hundred and twenty-five thousand horse-power at
+low water. The ca&ntilde;on, riven and tortured, through which it descends, is a
+fitting approach to the lake, unique Chelan. For having traversed the four
+miles, we find the lake outstretched before us.</p>
+
+<p>At this first view the lake has that look of a serene obliviousness to the
+flight of passing centuries, that impressure of eternity, that belongs to
+all great works of God or man. But majestic as is the view at the lower
+end of the lake, we are not content to remain there. &#8220;<i>Neskika Klatawa
+sahale</i>,&#8221; cry we with a single voice, which being interpreted is, &#8220;Let us
+go up higher,&#8221; the motto, by the way, of our Mazama (Mountain-Climbers&#8217;)
+Club of the Pacific North-west. In skiffs, well-laden with provisions and
+ammunition, we set forth on our sixty-mile pull toward &#8220;where the spectral
+glaciers shone.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>Delightful, delightful, almost ecstatic in truth, this rocking on the
+glassy swell; this bed of romantic spruce and pine boughs on the beach;
+this star-lit sky which is our only roof; this murmur of cascades falling
+from the bluffs; this trolling for five-pound trout;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> this disembarking on
+some rocky point and climbing a granite pinnacle from which a perfect maze
+of mountains, streams, and forests, lies extended below; this experience
+of the deadly attack of &#8220;buck-ague&#8221; which paralyses our arms as some goat
+or deer dashes by; and then the inexpressible delight with which we,
+&#8220;stepping down by zigzag paths and juts of pointed rock, came on the
+shining levels of the lake.&#8221; We do not wish to hurry our oars. We must
+take time to look into the heavenly blue of the waters through the
+foam-streaks left by our advancing prows. We must suspend the oar-dip
+entirely at times while we gaze dizzied, with strained necks, up, up,
+thousands of feet, toward &#8220;Death and Morning on the Silverhorns.&#8221; We must
+study shore and water as we pass slowly by, finding therein ample
+confirmation of the theory of glacial origin.</p>
+
+<p>This is one of the deepest ca&ntilde;ons on earth. Not such another furrow has
+Time wrought on the face of the Western Hemisphere, at least. At some
+points the granite walls rise almost vertically six thousand feet from the
+water&#8217;s edge. Here, too, soundings of seventeen hundred feet have been
+necessary to touch bottom. Over a mile and a half of verticality! This
+surpasses in depth Yosemite, Yellowstone, Columbia, or even Colorado
+Ca&ntilde;on. As compared with those more familiar wonders, Chelan lacks the
+incomparable symmetry and completeness of Yosemite; it has not such a
+multitude of waterfalls and groups of &#8220;castled crags&#8221; as are seen within
+the basaltic gates of the Columbia; it does not display that variety of
+colouring, especially of the lighter and warmer hues, which astonishes the
+beholder of the Colorado or the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span>Yellowstone, and it has no especially
+curious feature like the geysers of the last; but for immensity, for a
+certain chaotic sublimity, for the rich and sombre grandeur of the purple
+and garnet, dusky, and indigo-tinted shore views, Chelan surpasses any of
+the others, while in its water views,&mdash;such colourings and such blendings,
+light-green, ultramarine, lapis lazuli, violet, indigo, almost
+black,&mdash;such light and shade, &#8220;sea of glass mingled with fire,&#8221; where
+every cloud in the changing sky and all the untold majesty of the hills
+find their perfect mirror, all hues and forms, a kaleidoscope of earth and
+heaven, beyond imagination to conceive or pen to describe or brush to
+portray,&mdash;in all this, Chelan is without a rival.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img40.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">On the C&oelig;ur d&#8217; Alene River, Idaho.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>As we round a shaggy promontory, there the snow-peaks stand in battle
+array, azure, purple, amethystine, with lines and masses of glistening
+white, flushed on their topmost pinnacles with rosy light from the
+westering sun, solemn, solitary, very oracles of mountain revelation, so
+grand, so beautiful, so true, looking as though they had been there
+forever waiting for an interpreter,&mdash;before that scene we bow the head and
+make involuntary obeisance, the homage of the true in man to the true in
+nature, that is, the recognition of a common brotherhood in one divine
+origin.</p>
+
+<p>Not of every scene on this lake of wonders can we speak. Yet every mile
+brought its special revelation. Sometimes we found the lake in storms. As
+we rowed in what seemed a summer calm, Winter from his throne eight
+thousand feet above sent forth his cloud-legions, which, like the &#8220;thunder
+birds&#8221; of Indian story, spread their wings and came down. The thunder
+clash went echoing in long reverberations<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> &#8220;from peak to peak, the
+rattling crags among.&#8221; &#8220;If a squall ever strikes you, put for the first
+crack in the bank that you see,&#8221; had been the parting injunction of the
+lake sailors when we started on our cruise. We observed the warning and
+made the best possible time to a cranny in the ill-omened &#8220;Windy Cape.&#8221;
+And there we lay till morning, when the tumult fell as suddenly as it
+rose, and lake and sky smiled as serenely at each other as ever.</p>
+
+<p>The chief point on the lake, for photographing, hunting, fishing, and
+climbing, is Railroad Creek, fifty miles up the lake. Railroad Creek comes
+from the &#8220;Roof of the World,&#8221; having its source in the very heart of a
+great group of glaciers. It descends probably six thousand feet in
+twenty-five miles. It is swift! The fury with which it hurls logs and even
+boulders down its cataract bed is fairly appalling. The very earth quivers
+beneath its flail-like strokes.</p>
+
+<p>Nowhere, perhaps, can one see more work done by rivers than here. The
+entire course of one of these rivers can be traced from the lake. Rising
+in a snow bank six thousand feet above, its route marked by a streak of
+foam, sometimes falling in spray hundreds of feet, then hiding behind a
+cliff, to burst forth in snow-white &#8220;chute,&#8221; augmented by similar streams
+from lateral ca&ntilde;ons, it plunges into the lake with a perfect delirium of
+motion. So great is the erosion that were not the lake of enormous depth,
+it would soon be filled with the jetsam and flotsam of the hills.</p>
+
+<p>The sunset effects looking up the lake from Railroad Creek are marvellous,
+though, alas, the cool black and white of the photograph cannot preserve
+the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span> wealth of colouring, &#8220;the illumination of all gems,&#8221; which for a few
+transcendent moments fills the mighty ca&ntilde;on &#8220;bank-full&#8221; with such radiance
+that one might think it the grand gathering place of all the rainbows of
+earth. The light greens and blues of the shallower water shade into
+deepest indigo toward the centre, reflecting the ever-changing hues of the
+ca&ntilde;on walls, a deep, rich, and sombre purple on the shaded side, while on
+the sun-lit side are poured forth upon the shaggy mountain slopes perfect
+inundations of orange, carmine, and saffron. From these floods of glory
+there falls into the lake a seeming rain of pearls and rubies, barred with
+stripes of gold and crimson. But the sun drops lower and the splendour
+fades, the conflagration of the sky is quenched, and it seems as though
+ten thousand ships, &#8220;all decked with funeral scarfs from stem to stern,&#8221;
+were putting out from the glooming western shores, strewing darkness as
+they move,&mdash;and night is at hand.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img41.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Gorge of Chelan River, the Outlet of Lake Chelan.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Like all travellers to Lake Chelan, we must make a journey to the head of
+the lake, to the Stehekin River, and to Rainbow Falls. The view up the
+ca&ntilde;on of the Stehekin is the crowning glory of this panorama of
+sublimities. A forest of almost tropical luxuriance covers the morass
+through which the impetuous river makes its way. On either side tower the
+ca&ntilde;on walls, capped with snow. The background consists of glittering
+pinnacles of some of the Glacier Range. Majesty, might, elemental force,
+eternity,&mdash;such are the only words to express the emotions excited by this
+scene.</p>
+
+<p>One curious thing to be seen at the mouth of the Stehekin, and at several
+other places on the lake is a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> series of rude drawings on the smooth,
+white surface of the granite bluff, the work of some prehistoric artist,
+unknown to the Indians, and of so ancient date that the lake is now twenty
+feet below their level. The drawings are of men, goats, tents, and trees,
+and are in strong red colours, of some very enduring nature. One is
+ashamed to record that alleged human beings in the form of white tourists
+have used these curious relics of bygone days as targets to shoot at from
+their boats, and have ruined some of the finest. Also that some vandal has
+desecrated the place by painting a glaring advertisement of his ferry
+underneath.</p>
+
+<p>Although it may well seem to the tourist who has attained the head of Lake
+Chelan that nature has reached her acme of grandeur, and that it would tax
+his powers of belief to be informed that there is grander yet, we shall
+run the risk of saying just that, and bid him join us on side journeys up
+the mighty ca&ntilde;ons of the Stehekin River and Railroad Creek. Lake Chelan
+being, as already indicated, in the very heart of the Cascade Mountains,
+and these mountains here attaining an average elevation of seven or eight
+thousand feet, with dozens of peaks of ten thousand or more, and the
+countless impetuous streams from those snowy heights having cut their way
+deep down toward the lake level, it follows as a matter of course that the
+entire Chelan region, for an area of probably ten thousand square miles,
+is perfectly gridironed with ca&ntilde;ons. Many of them have never been explored
+or even entered. In them are myriads of lakes, waterfalls, parks,
+glaciers, and, in fact, every species of mountain attraction. There is no
+question that within<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> this vast cordon of mountains there are more
+glaciers than in all the rest of the United States combined, and, with the
+exception of the Sierras and the Canadian Rockies, there is certainly no
+other region on this continent that can for a moment enter into
+competition with it. Travellers have assured the author that the Alps in
+no respect except historical association, surpass, and some say, do not
+equal this crowning glory of our great North-west State.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img42.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Head of Lake Chelan&mdash;Looking up Stehekin Ca&ntilde;on.<br />Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Amid the bewildering profusion of great ca&ntilde;ons radiating from the lake,
+the two most accessible are those of the Stehekin River and Railroad
+Creek. The former enters the head of the lake, after a course of probably
+fifty miles from Skagit Pass. To ascend this ca&ntilde;on we must commit our
+lives and fortunes to cayuse ponies and a mountain trail, which, though
+good enough to the initiated, is a terror to the &#8220;tenderfoot.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>Four miles up the Stehekin we reach Rainbow Falls, heralded by distant
+gusts and eddies of mist, which at first seem to be from woods on fire.
+But a dull roar, a harsh rumble, then a lighter splash,&mdash;and we see that
+what at first had seemed smoke eddying out of the ca&ntilde;on wall is the mist
+driven before the gusts created by the falling torrents. With a few more
+hurried steps we find ourselves before a fall three hundred and fifty feet
+high. Its clouds of spray swirl like a thunder-shower, drenching the rocks
+and trees far around. Picking our way amid the pelting mist to the top of
+a slippery hillock from which we can look right down into the very heart
+of the fall, we see, swinging against the mist, a perfect rainbow, a
+complete double circle, a blaze of lustre. The thrilling roar deepens as
+we hang over the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> slippery verge, and sounds like voices, trampling of
+armies, clatter of innumerable hoofs, rattling of artillery, all the
+grandeur and frenzy of conflict, seem to rise from that wild gorge. Now
+the mist eddies forth and blurs the vision, and then falls back, and that
+dazzling bow hangs there unmarred. The bridge of Iris or Heimdall, we
+say,&mdash;but no; it is no more a bridge, it is a perfect circle, the symbol
+of eternity. The symbol also of peace, for eternity is peace. That
+mist-hung bow becomes to us an emblem of the harmony of all jarring sounds
+and discordant forces. And so with that bow of peace swaying behind us,
+and the deep thunder fading in musical diminuendo, we pass on to the next
+wonder; and this is not far, for every mile brings its special revelation.</p>
+
+<p>Time forbids that we pause for more than one added scene on the Stehekin,
+and this is the Horseshoe Basin, thirty miles up the river. This is in the
+upper ca&ntilde;on. Imagine yourself perched upon a granite pinnacle, looking
+possibly a little anxiously for bear in the thick copses at its bases, for
+this is said to be the greatest bear region in the country, but soon
+lifting your eyes to the heights on either side. Six thousand feet deep is
+that stupendous gorge. On the south side you see the &#8220;castled crags,&#8221;
+glacier-crested, while on the north, Horseshoe Basin stands revealed. A
+long line of dark-red minarets, at whose foot stretches two miles of
+glistening and twisted ice, then below that a great terrace, vivid green
+with spring foliage, and over it falling a perfect symposium of
+waterfalls, if we may be allowed such an expression. Twenty-one falls and
+cataracts all in one view. They vary in descent from two hundred to two
+thousand<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span> feet. Joining at the foot of the terrace in one foaming torrent
+the waters of the Basin plunge in one fall of two hundred feet, thence
+pass under a snow tunnel and down a rocky chute swept clean by the flood
+to augment the already raging waters of the Stehekin. The Horseshoe Basin,
+though not grander, not so sublimely terrible, in fact, as some other
+scenes in the ca&ntilde;on, has that indescribable look of perfectness which
+belongs to the immortal works of nature and art. It has a symmetry of form
+and colour beyond any other in the entire region. The dark-red minarets
+which form the outer escarpment, ten thousand feet above sea-level, form a
+marvellous contrast and yet harmony with the green and blue and white of
+the glacier and the snow-field, and this in turn is margined with the
+deep-green and olive hues of the lower terrace, while joining and unifying
+all is the flashing and opalescent splendour of the cataracts.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img43.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Cascade Pass at Head of Stehekin River, Wash.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>At the mouth of the Horseshoe Creek, lodged on a little rocky island, is a
+shattered cabin. We camp near this, and while we are engaged in preparing
+an appetising meal of fish and venison, a grizzled prospector appears
+coming down the trail. After the manner of the mountains, he makes himself
+at home and camps with us for the night. In the course of his conversation
+he narrates many stories of this wild region and of the prospecting and
+hunting adventures that have happened in it. Finally he tells us the story
+of the lost cabin, a story that certainly contains all the elements of a
+romance. It appears that some years ago two young fellows from the East,
+cousins, had come to the Stehekin to prospect. The old man who told us the
+story was then the only prospector in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span> the ca&ntilde;on, and he soon made friends
+with the two adventurers. From broken pieces of conversation and finally
+some confidences on the part of one of the boys, he learned something of
+their story. They had been bosom friends all their lives, but had fallen
+in love with the same girl. The poor girl, not knowing which she did like
+best, told them that the only thing was for both to leave her for two
+years, and at the end of the time she would decide in favour of the one
+that had showed himself the braver and more successful man. Each kept his
+destination a perfect secret, but to their astonishment, within a month
+after, they found each other in Spokane. They concluded that it was the
+appointment of fate, and so went together to the wild country of Chelan,
+to seek a fortune.</p>
+
+<p>After they had been there a short time they found a mutual distrust
+springing up, and finally, by the advice of the old man, they agreed to
+separate. George was to stay below. He was the more sullen and selfish of
+the two, and it was due to him that they had fallen out. Harry was of a
+frank and generous nature, and when it became evident that they must part
+he insisted that he should help build a cabin for George. And the cabin
+that they built was the very one that we now saw lodged against the rocks.
+Harry went up the ca&ntilde;on toward the Skagit Pass, and there in the lonely
+grandeur of the glaciers he plied his pick and shovel.</p>
+
+<p>A few months later there came a mighty Chinook, the warm wind of the
+Cascades, which strips the peaks of snow within a day, transforms the
+creeks into raging torrents, and sends floods down every dry gulch. The
+night after the wind began to blow the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span> old miner came to George&#8217;s cabin,
+and in the intense darkness of the cloudy night they listened to the
+hurtling of the storm and the roar of the rapidly growing river. About
+midnight there came suddenly a succession of rifle shots near at hand, and
+in a few minutes a thunder and roar of water beyond anything that they had
+heard. Rushing out they saw that the water was already surrounding the
+cabin and they had to run in the darkness for their lives. Stumbling among
+the rocks they reached at last land high enough for safety, while the
+floods went tearing by. With the first light they looked out to see that
+the cabin had gone adrift, but sadder to tell, they soon found Harry,
+mangled, tortured, at the point of death, just strong enough to tell them
+that from his situation he had seen that a fearful flood was coming and he
+was trying to save George. But he had fallen in the darkness and crashed
+upon the rocks, and even in his suffering he had fired his rifle as a
+warning, hoping that it might be heard and save, and so it did. And the
+faithful fellow died content. &#8220;We tell the tale as it was told us.&#8221; But
+the poor old wreck of a cabin took on something of a new significance as
+it leaned up against the rocks, while the restless river sobbed and
+frothed about it.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img44.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Doubtful Lake, Cascade Range, Washington, near Lake Chelan.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>There is great strife among the Chelan people as to which is the grander
+section, the Stehekin or Railroad Creek. As a matter of fact, both are so
+superlatively magnificent that whichever place one is in, that he thinks
+the finer. But there is one feature of the case, and this is that the
+grandest part of Railroad Creek is seldom visited. Few have ever been to
+Glacier Lake, North Star Park, and Cloudy Pass,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span> at the extreme head of
+the creek, and these are the central features of the scenery. They are
+about twenty-five miles from Lake Chelan, and the road and trail are
+mainly good, so that the journey to the head of the creek and return can
+be made very comfortably in four days.</p>
+
+<p>Neither words nor pictures are adequate to convey any true conception of
+Glacier Lake and its surroundings. Imagine a park of four or five thousand
+acres, set with grass and flowers, filled with ice-cold streams of water
+clear as crystal, and dotted here and there with trees of the most
+exquisite beauty. On every side except the one down which the creek
+descends, stupendous, glacier-crowned, and pinnacled peaks penetrate the
+blue-black sky at an elevation of ten or eleven thousand feet. At the
+south side of the park lies Glacier Lake, a mile long and half as wide,
+margined with vivid grass, brilliant flowers, and trees of the Alpine
+type, clear as crystal, unless darkened by some sudden scud from the
+heights. At the southern end of the lake is a bold bluff of five hundred
+feet, over which fall the waters of Railroad Creek, a white band across
+the darkness of the bluff. Above may be seen the source of this stream. It
+issues from a smaller lake, which lies in the very end of a vast glacier,
+a mass of ice two miles wide and about four miles long.</p>
+
+<p>Passing west of Glacier Lake through the enchanted North Star Park, a
+veritable land of Beulah (at least when the sun is shining), we climb a
+thousand or twelve hundred feet higher, and find ourselves at one of those
+thrilling points in the mountains, a &#8220;divide.&#8221; We are on the crest of the
+Cascade <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span>Mountains. To the east the water flows to Lake Chelan, thence to
+the Columbia, and thence to the Pacific by a journey of six hundred miles.
+To the west the water descends through the Sauk and the Skagit to Puget
+Sound, only a hundred and fifty miles away. This pass is almost always
+wrapped in clouds, and it is fittingly known as Cloudy Pass. The masses of
+warm vapour rising from the Pacific are hurled against the icy crowns of
+Glacier Peak, Mt. Nixon, Mt. Le Conte, North Star Peak, Bonanza Peak, and
+the rest of the wintry brotherhood, most not yet even named, and make of
+them a genuine &#8220;<i>patriam nimborum</i>,&#8221; in Virgil&#8217;s phrase.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img45.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Horseshoe Basin through a Rock Gap, Stehekin Ca&ntilde;on.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>This is the breeding place of tempests. We had just reached the pass on
+one occasion, with a smiling sky below, and were just getting our cameras
+ready to catch the westward maze of peaks, when almost instantly there
+began to wheel and whirl above us great cloud-masses, seemingly from
+nowhere, formed right there, in fact, and before we had time to think, we
+were wrapped in a furious blizzard. With difficulty, benumbed, drenched,
+and exhausted, we managed to pick our way to camp, four miles below. This
+was in the early part of August. To be caught in a Chelan snowstorm is a
+serious matter at any time, and later in the year, may be all a man&#8217;s life
+is worth.</p>
+
+<p>But the greatest sight, the crowning feature, of all this panorama of
+sublimities is Glacier Peak seen from Cloudy Pass. This is pre-eminently
+the storm-king, the &#8220;Cloud-Compeller&#8221; (<i>Nephelegereta</i>, in the sounding
+word of Homer), and rarely can one catch an unobstructed view of its
+glistening cone. After much watching and waiting we caught the base and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span>
+part of the double crown of the mighty mass. Glacier Peak is the &#8220;Great
+Unknown&#8221; among our Washington peaks. Every one has heard of Rainier, most
+people know of Adams, St. Helens, Baker, and Stewart, but Glacier Peak,
+alone in its solitary grandeur, not visible from the cities or routes of
+travel, is little known even to the people of the State. As its name
+denotes, it is the centre of a vast glacial system. To any tourist with a
+taste for adventure, Glacier Peak affords the finest field, while it
+offers an almost untouched mark for the scientist.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img46.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Lake Chelan.<br />Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_2.III" id="CHAPTER_2.III"></a>CHAPTER III</h3>
+<p class="chapter">In the Land of Wheat-field, Orchard, and Garden</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Increasing Population and Cultivation as we go South&mdash;Chelan and
+Wenatchee Orchards&mdash;The Wheat-plains East of Wenatchee to
+Spokane&mdash;Spokane, the Metropolis of the Inland Empire&mdash;The Falls and
+their Power&mdash;Interesting Points in and around Spokane&mdash;The Palouse
+Farming Country&mdash;Snake River and its Orchards&mdash;Vast Irrigating
+Enterprises of the Upper Snake&mdash;Shoshone Falls&mdash;Walla Walla&mdash;Waiilatpu
+and Whitman Monument&mdash;Whitman College&mdash;Pendleton and its Wheat-fields
+and Historical Characters&mdash;Wallowa Lake&mdash;From Wenatchee to Priest
+Rapids&mdash;Origin of Name of Priest Rapids&mdash;Irrigating Enterprises below
+Priest Rapids&mdash;By Steamboat from Priest Rapids to Pasco&mdash;The Yakima
+Valley, its Fruits and Towns&mdash;Pasco and Kennewick and the Meeting of
+the Waters&mdash;Prospects of the Future for the Irrigable Country&mdash;From
+Pasco to Celilo&mdash;The Umatilla Palisades&mdash;Umatilla Rapids&mdash;Tumwater
+Falls&mdash;The Canal and Locks at Celilo&mdash;What Will be Accomplished by
+them for the Inland Empire&mdash;The Dalles&mdash;Its Historic Interest&mdash;Its
+Wool Business, its Horticultural and Agricultural Resources, its
+Scenery.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">Our</span> journey on the River thus far has been mainly in those sections where
+scenery is the greatest product, and where the country, scantily
+inhabited, has almost as primitive an appearance as when the gay songs of
+the <i>voyageurs</i> raised the echoes against the rock-walls of the lakes,
+while paddles and bateau-prows started correspondent ripples on the clear
+surface.</p>
+
+<p>But as we proceed southward into the State of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> Washington, we find more
+and more evidences of cultivation and inhabitancy. At the mouths of the
+streams and on the frequent &#8220;benches&#8221; and islands, orchards and gardens
+attest the enterprise and patience of the settlers. Around the lower end
+of Lake Chelan the big red apple, luscious peaches, plethoric pears, huge
+bunches of grapes, like the grapes of Eschol, make a picture of
+fruitfulness and delight. When we reach Wenatchee on the Columbia,&mdash;a
+river, a lake, and a town of the same name, meaning in the native tongue
+the &#8220;butterfly,&#8221;&mdash;we find ourselves in the uppermost of those belts of
+fruit land which have made the River so famous. As we stroll through these
+model orchards and vines and berry patches and gardens, and see the
+wonders wrought on the arid soil by the life-giving waters of the
+Wenatchee, we are almost ready to join the throng that are continually
+accepting the invitation to &#8220;be independent on ten acres of land and find
+health, wealth, and happiness in Wenatchee.&#8221; In truth, these irrigated
+lands are marvels of productiveness. The valley of the Wenatchee is small,
+and not over twelve thousand acres are yet in productive bearing; but in
+1907 not less than five hundred carloads of fruit and vegetables were
+shipped.</p>
+
+<p>Like all the irrigated regions, Wenatchee is a place of pleasant homes,
+good schools and social advantages, and all the accompaniments of the
+finest type of genuine, whole-souled, ambitious Americanism. At Wenatchee
+we are on the main line of the Great Northern Railroad, and by it we can
+go west through the Cascade Mountains to Puget Sound, or east to Spokane.
+We must return again to Wenatchee in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span> order to resume our journey down
+the River, but we will first turn eastward and make a tour of the great
+&#8220;Inland Empire&#8221; of Washington, Idaho, and Oregon.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img47.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">A Harvest Outfit, Dayton, Wash.<br /><i>Sunset Magazine.</i></p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img48.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">A Combined Harvester, near Walla Walla.<br />Photo. by W. D. Chapman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>One must necessarily visit Spokane on a journey through the great wheat
+country. Spokane, the metropolis and the pride of Eastern Washington, is a
+wonder to the Eastern tourist. Such a city, over one hundred thousand
+people, with costly brick and stone buildings, four, six, ten stories
+high, impressive public buildings, schools, churches, hotels, hundred-foot
+avenues well-paved, private dwellings of architectural excellence,&mdash;and
+hardly a soul there thirty years ago!</p>
+
+<p>A grand spectacle the falls offered the eye in old Spokane, but now, alas,
+so cribbed and cabined is the noble stream by the march of industrial and
+electrical power that its wild energy is well-nigh gone except at the
+highest water. The total fall in the Spokane River is one hundred and
+forty-six feet, and the horse-power capacity at low water is forty
+thousand, at high water over half a million.</p>
+
+<p>Many points of interest must be hastily passed. The author feels great
+reluctance to omit a visit to the State College of Washington at Pullman,
+and the University of Idaho at Moscow. There are also historic spots, as
+one at Rosalia where a monument has recently been erected in commemoration
+of the Steptoe defeat in 1858, and the site of the first church in Eastern
+Washington on Walker&#8217;s Prairie, where Eells and Walker started a mission
+for the Spokane Indians in 1838. There is also at the junction of the
+Spokane and Little Spokane, the site of Spokane House, a post<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span> of the
+Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company, started in 1811. One might also well desire to visit
+the location of the old Spokane Bridge, where Colonel Wright crushed
+forever the pride and power of the Spokanes by killing eight hundred of
+their choicest horses.</p>
+
+<p>On whatever side viewed, either past or present, or in the forecast of the
+future, Spokane is worthy of careful study. Its extensive railroad system
+and its network of electric lines reaching the many lakes, garden and
+fruit tracts, and rapidly developing suburbs, are concentrating the
+interests of a vast and wealthy region. But there are other cities to see
+and other boomers to hear and other bright futures to forecast, and so we
+turn our faces southward on the line of the O. R. &amp; N. Railway, passing
+through vale after vale between the swelling prairies, with wheat, wheat,
+wheat, oats, oats, oats, hay, hay, hay, cattle, horses, hogs, apple trees,
+and sugar beets, elegant farmhouses on the knolls and spacious barns in
+the hollows,&mdash;the great Palouse farming country, one of the most
+productive in the world. Whitman County has produced eight million bushels
+of wheat in a season, besides vast quantities of other products.</p>
+
+<p>A hundred and forty miles from Spokane the great wheat plateau is broken
+by the profound abyss of Snake River. Dark, turbid, sullen, not so
+beautiful as the northern branches flowing out of the lakes, this largest
+of all the tributaries of the River goes on its swift and treacherous
+course to the union with the Columbia. Snake River is famous for its
+orchards. Almota, Penewawa, Alpowa, Kelly&#8217;s Bar, Clarkston, Asotin, are
+the most prominent among many points where the cherries, peaches,
+nectarines, apricots, berries, grapes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span> go out by the carload and
+steamerload, earlier than anywhere else except on the banks of the
+Columbia itself, to all parts of the West and even at times to Chicago and
+New York. The region of these enormously productive fruit ranches is a
+narrow ribbon of fertile land at the bottom of a ca&ntilde;on fifteen hundred
+feet deep. Hot? Yes, hot! They say the mercury sometimes boils out of the
+top of the thermometer. But heat and water and good soil make the rich
+juice and bright cheeks of the peach and nectarine. Hundreds of miles up
+Snake River in the wide expanses of Southern Idaho the waters are being
+diverted for some of the largest irrigation enterprises on earth. There
+the Twin Falls canal, one hundred feet wide and deep enough for a
+steamboat, conveys the water to two hundred and eighty thousand acres of
+land. The Minidoka canal covers almost as much. That part of the Snake
+River Valley, three hundred miles long by fifty miles wide, will ere long
+count its inhabitants by the million.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img49.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Inland Empire System&#8217;s Power Plant, near Spokane, 20,000 Horse-Power.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img50.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Lower Spokane Falls.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>No one could consider that he had really seen Snake River unless he had
+visited the Great Shoshone Falls, or &#8220;Pahchulaka.&#8221; This sublime
+manifestation of nature&#8217;s power is about forty miles from the town of
+Shoshone on the Oregon Short Line. The total descent is nearly three
+hundred feet, of which eighty consists of cataracts and chutes broken by
+rocky islands, while the entire stream unites in the one final plunge of
+two hundred and twelve feet. It is ten hundred and fifty feet wide, and
+the walls of basaltic rock rise perpendicularly a thousand feet. Niagara
+is the only waterfall on the American continent that can be compared with
+Shoshone. Niagara is much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span> wider but not so high. Its banks are tame,
+while those of Shoshone are wildly sublime.</p>
+
+<p>The spectres of history rise up at every stage of a journey along Snake
+River. But we cannot pause. We pass on from the crossing of Snake River
+and soon find ourselves approaching Walla Walla. This is the most historic
+city of the Inland Empire and the oldest of the entire State of
+Washington, with the exception of Vancouver. The pleasant-sounding name
+signifies in the native tongue &#8220;Many Waters,&#8221; though more literally, as
+the author has been told by an old Cayuse Indian, &#8220;Place where four creeks
+meet.&#8221; The city of Walla Walla is thirty-two miles from the Columbia River
+in the midst of a broad and fertile valley, through which dozens of clear
+rivulets issuing from springs make their way through the birches and
+cottonwoods. The warm climate, rich soil, and abundant water, with
+multitudes of trees, give the &#8220;Garden City&#8221; an appearance of almost
+tropical luxuriance. On all sides for many miles stretch the wheat-fields,
+orchards, gardens, and alfalfa-fields. It is a land of plenty. It is
+commonly said that Walla Walla has more automobiles, more bicycles, more
+pianos, more flowers, and more pretty girls in proportion to population,
+than any other town in the North-west.</p>
+
+<p>The special historic interest of Walla Walla is found in the fact that it
+was the location of the Whitman Mission and that the Whitman massacre took
+place at the Mission Station, Waiilatpu, six miles from the city. That
+spot is now marked with a marble crypt in which the bones of the martyrs
+rest, and a plain but imposing granite shaft stands upon the crest of the
+hill just above.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img51.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Ca&ntilde;on of the Stehekin, near Lake Chelan.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span>A more living monument to the missionary is found in Whitman College. This
+institution, planned on the model of Amherst, Yale, and Williams, though
+co-educational, was founded by Rev. Cushing Eells in 1859 as an academy.
+It was not till 1883 that college work was undertaken. During that period
+the self-denying missionary and his family supported the infant
+institution by selling the products of their farm and devoting to it all
+except what was absolutely necessary for their own support. During years
+of slow, patient growth under very discouraging conditions, Whitman
+College has made friends East and West, and within the last few years it
+has become equipped with buildings and general facilities of high grade.
+An effort is now in progress, apparently sure of fulfilment, to raise two
+million dollars for buildings and general endowment. Walla Walla is
+becoming peculiarly known as the educational centre and the home city of
+the Inland Empire.</p>
+
+<p>From Walla Walla we take a flying trip through the continued wheat belt on
+the Umatilla and its branches in Northern Oregon, a region similar to that
+around Walla Walla, rich and fruitful. Of this part of Oregon, Pendleton
+on the Umatilla is the metropolis. The Umatilla Indian Reservation, one of
+the most important in the history of this country, adjoins it. One of the
+most interesting persons in North-west history, now deceased, lived at
+Pendleton many years, Dr. William C. McKay, the son of Thomas McKay, and
+grandson of Alexander McKay, the last named being that one of the Astor
+company who lost his life on the <i>Tonquin</i>. Dr. William McKay was a
+three-quarter-blood Indian, but he was well educated and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span> one of the most
+interesting men in our history. Another noted man, still living in the
+prime of life, is Major Lee Moorehouse, famous in earlier times as an
+Indian fighter and agent, and more recently as one of the most successful
+students and photographers of Indian life. Some of his pictures have
+gained national fame, and the publishers of this volume are indebted to
+his courtesy for their appearance here. Another interesting fact in
+connection with Pendleton is that here the Pendleton Indian robes and
+blankets are manufactured, and these have borne the name of their home
+place to all parts of the United States and even the world.</p>
+
+<p>While in this part of Oregon we must take advantage of the opportunity to
+visit Lake Wallowa, with its tragic and pathetic memories of Indian war
+and early settlement and with its glorious scenery, almost equal to that
+of Chelan. Right over the lake, deep-set in precipitous mountain walls,
+towers the battlemented crest of Eagle Cap, which the people of Wallowa
+now declare to be the highest mountain in Oregon, 12,000 feet in
+elevation. Wallowa Lake is the veritable jewel of the Blue Mountains, a
+chain which, while not in general equal to the Cascades for height,
+grandeur, and variety, possesses in the Wallowa Basin a group of
+attractions not surpassed in any part of the North-west.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img52.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Memorial Building, Whitman College, Walla Walla, Wash.<br />Photo. by W. D. Chapman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>And now we must retrace our course after this long detour through the
+productive land bordering the tributaries of the River or we can in
+imagination fly on the wings of the south wind, which almost always blows
+across the Inland Empire, and find ourselves again at Wenatchee in order
+to resume our interrupted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span> journey down the River. From Wenatchee to the
+foot of Priest Rapids, about sixty miles, there is no regular steamboat
+communication. We can, however, use the same means of transportation that
+we have hitherto used so liberally, imagination, and upon that airy and
+convenient ship we can descend the swift and tortuous stream. The fur
+brigades used to trust themselves to the skill of their paddles and boldly
+descend the rapids, seldom meeting with disaster. There are three
+principal rapids in this section of the River, Rock Island, Cabinet, and
+Priest. In the first the River is very narrow and split in sunder by
+ragged pinnacles of basaltic rock. At first observation it looks a
+reckless thing to push a boat out into the white water whirling through
+these fantastic points of rock. Yet a bateau or canoe skilfully handled
+will plunge like a race-horse down the foaming stretch, and emerge below
+bow down with little water aboard and inmates intact. Steamboats have both
+descended and ascended this rapid, though it is considered a somewhat
+dangerous performance. Cabinet Rapids are less picturesque and interesting
+than Rock Island, but they offer even more serious obstacles to
+navigation, the channel being narrow and the water shallow. The river has
+cut this part of its course through the great plateau, and its banks on
+either side are rocky walls a thousand feet high, with occasional sandy
+stretches, sad, barren, and monotonous. There is, in fact, not so much to
+catch the eye or enlist the interest of the tourist (if he were here) in
+this dismal expanse of rock and sand as there is either above or below. It
+is practically uninhabited. But as we proceed upon our way the banks fall
+away, wider expanses of land <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span>appear, and we discover an occasional band
+of cattle or a settler&#8217;s hut on the generally bare, brown prairie. We are
+now approaching the longest rapid and the most serious impediment to
+navigation in the whole course of the River from Kettle Falls to Tumwater
+Falls. This is Priest Rapids. It is ten miles in length and represents a
+descent in the River of seventy feet. It would certainly be impossible of
+navigation by steamboats, were it not that the descent is distributed
+quite uniformly over the ten miles and the River in general is quite
+straight and with a fair depth of water throughout. The old <i>voyageurs</i>
+had little difficulty in racing down, and they seem to have usually
+ascended by <i>cordelling</i> their bateaux beside the rocks, and at some
+especially difficult places by lightening the load and carrying around.
+Steamers have both ascended and descended, but it is so slow and tedious
+(on one occasion requiring a steamer three days to ascend the ten miles)
+that it cannot be considered commercially navigable. It will doubtless
+become necessary to construct a canal and locks at this point to render
+the River continuously and profitably navigable.</p>
+
+<p>Alexander Ross, in his <i>Adventures on the Columbia</i>, tells us how Priest
+Rapids came to be named. The first expedition of the Pacific Fur Company,
+of which Ross was a member, was making its way from Astoria up the River
+in 1811, and had reached the lower end of this fall. While reconnoitring
+and making preparations for proceeding, a large body of Indians gathered,
+watching operations with great interest. Among them was a fantastically
+dressed individual, with many feathers on his head, who was going
+through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span> some kind of a performance which the explorers conceived to have
+a religious significance. Considering him a priest, they named the rapids
+thus.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img53.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Starting the Ploughs in the Wheat Land, Walla Walla, Wash.<br />Photo. by W. D. Chapman, Walla Walla.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The country around Priest Rapids is barren and unpromising in its natural
+state, but just below the foot of the rapids is one of the most
+interesting irrigation projects in the State. Along the west side of the
+River for twenty-five miles extends a belt of the most fertile land. An
+immense pumping plant run by electricity, which in turn is generated by
+the current, has been put in at the foot of the rapids. By this the water
+is conducted over the twenty thousand or more acres of land available, and
+it is the expectation that within a few years a dense population will line
+the river bank and repeat on a larger and finer scale the miracle of
+redemption by water already performed at various points on the River and
+its tributaries. Several town sites, of which the chief is Hanford, named
+from the president of the company, have already been laid out, and
+investments both in town property and orchard land are being rapidly made.
+The same process of irrigating is becoming inaugurated at many points from
+Hanford for a hundred and fifty miles down the River. It is plain to the
+observer that it is but a question of time when the shores of the River in
+this arid section will bloom and blossom like the rose, and repeat the
+history of Old Nile in massing of population and creation of cities and
+towns. It has been estimated that there are about a million acres of
+irrigable land contiguous to the River between Chelan and The Dalles.
+Since from five to twenty acres of irrigated land are ample to maintain a
+family, and since cities and villages are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span> bound to grow on such tracts
+commensurate with their productive capacity, it seems probable that a
+million people will sometime live on this long belt of fertile soil
+redeemed by the River.</p>
+
+<p>The beauty of irrigation on the Columbia is that it can be made to pump
+itself. For by taking advantage of such a fall as that of Priest Rapids (a
+half million horse-power at ordinary water), electric power can be
+generated by which limitless water can be raised sufficiently to cover any
+desired amount of land. Some have expressed the opinion that this process
+would exhaust the River, but this is hardly possible. For the great
+demands are in June and July when the River is at its flood. It has been
+estimated that at low water the Columbia at Celilo discharges 125,000
+cubic feet per second, and at extreme high water, 1,600,000 cubic feet per
+second. Such a prodigious volume of water would be scarcely at all
+affected by any possible withdrawals.</p>
+
+<p>The River from the foot of Priest Rapids is regularly navigated by several
+steamers connecting the new lands and towns with Pasco, the railroad
+centre seventy miles below. This section of the River is deep and
+tranquil, a superb watercourse. Below Hanford the River receives the
+Yakima River, which is the important agent in the irrigation of the great
+Yakima Valley. No one could say that he knew the Columbia River or the
+State of Washington without a visit to that valley, the largest in the
+State and the scene of the most extensive development in irrigated lands
+anywhere in the North-west. Three thousand carloads of fruit and
+vegetables were shipped from the Yakima in 1907. Buyers of Yakima fruits
+come from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span> all parts of the East, from England, and even from France.
+Fortunes have been made in that fair land,&mdash;a fair land when supplied with
+water, but an arid waste without it. The United States Government has
+acquired control of most of the water system of the Yakima, and by means
+of storage basins in the mountain lakes where the Yakima and its branches
+rise, will be able to supply water for over a million acres of land.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img54.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">On the Historic Walla Walla River.<br />Photo. by W. D. Chapman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The productive capacity of these fat lands when softened with an
+irrigating ditch and tickled with a hoe or cultivator is almost beyond
+belief. In 1907 an orchardist in what is known as Parker Bottom in the
+Yakima Valley raised on fifty-eight pear trees a crop of pears which was
+sold for over three thousand dollars. This statement is well attested,
+extraordinary as it sounds. It should be understood that such production
+does not represent an average yield. The trees were of large size and of
+the choicest variety, while conditions of production, price, and sale were
+of the best. Yet similar records may be found in Wenatchee, Hood River,
+Walla Walla, and others of the fine fruit-producing regions of the
+Columbia Valley. A man in the Touchet Valley near Dayton, who had been for
+twenty years a teacher at an average salary of a thousand a year, became
+discontented with his narrow conditions, and by making credit arrangements
+for a rich body of land has devoted himself for some years to the
+development of an apple orchard. He has a hundred acres of trees, young
+and of choice varieties, from which in the year 1907 he sold thirty-four
+thousand boxes of fruit for approximately fifty thousand dollars.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span>But while we have been flying in imagination over the spacious valley of
+the Yakima, our steamer has been speeding down the broad River, and we are
+now within sight of a vast prairie stretching east and south, bounded on
+the southern horizon by the azure wall, ridged with white, of the Blue
+Mountains. To the east, this great plain melts into the sky. In fact it
+extends to the Bitter Root Mountains, a distance of over two hundred
+miles. On the west bank of the River we see a narrower plain bounded by a
+steep treeless ridge. On either bank we see taking shape before us houses
+and trees, while extended over the River, like threads of gossamer in the
+distance, a bridge is outlined against the sky. We soon discover that we
+are near Pasco on the east bank and Kennewick on the west bank of the
+River. The bridge is that of the Northern Pacific and Spokane, Portland,
+and Seattle Railroads. A mile below the bridge the Snake River joins its
+greater brother.</p>
+
+<p>This point is the very hub of the Inland Empire. Here the two great rivers
+unite. Here steamboating on a vast scale will take place in the near
+future. As soon as the locks are placed in the River at Celilo, a hundred
+and thirty miles below, steamers can move freely to the ocean. Here three
+transcontinental railroads pass, two down the River and one to Puget
+Sound. Another is in process of construction to Puget Sound. Here a body
+of the richest soil, on both sides of both rivers, embracing at least a
+hundred and fifty thousand acres, waits only for water to bloom and yield
+as Wenatchee and Yakima have already done. Here the long, hot summer
+insures the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</a></span> earliest production of any part of the North-west, and in
+early production the profit is found.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img55.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Blalock Fruit Ranch of a Thousand Acres at Walla Walla, Wash.<br />Photo. by W. D. Chapman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>It is, in fact, obvious at a glance that here at the junction of the
+Columbia and Snake Rivers, at the crossings of the great railroads, and at
+the point of the greatest area of irrigable land in one body, with every
+advantage of soil, climate, and transportation, there is bound to be in
+the near future a large city. Already on the west side of the Columbia the
+beautiful little town of Kennewick, of three thousand inhabitants, where
+six years ago the jack-rabbits, coyotes, and sage-hens held sway, shows
+what can be done with water. For at that point the first irrigating canal
+was put through the waste, and the traveller can now see the results.</p>
+
+<p>Other irrigating enterprises are now in progress, and by the time the
+readers of this volume come to descend the River in the splendid
+steamboats which will sometime run through canals and locks the whole
+length from Revelstoke to the ocean, there will be one of the most
+splendid cities in the North-west at this meeting of the waters. Pasco is
+likely to be the location of the big city. From Pasco there are steamers
+running to Celilo, conveying wheat. The traveller who desires to know the
+River from its surface should take passage on such a steamer. We see the
+same characteristic features of the inauguration of irrigating enterprises
+from point to point, but mainly the shores are still uninhabited and
+barren, and the River, mainly untouched by sail or steamer, sweeps on its
+swift course, as lonely as when Lewis and Clark first turned their canoe
+prows westward.</p>
+
+<p>As we pass the desolate sand heaps near the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</a></span>disconsolate little old town
+of Wallula, we can recall the old Hudson&#8217;s Bay fort, the Indian wars, the
+struggle for possession, the missions, the incoming immigrants, all the
+tragedy and striving which marked the century just closed. Below Wallula
+the Umatilla highlands throw a barrier eight hundred feet high athwart the
+course of the stream, and the bold escarpments of rock, palisades grander
+than those of the Hudson, attest the energy with which the River fulfilled
+his mission of cleaving the intercepting barrier in two. Below these
+palisades, a vast plain extends many miles on the south to where the
+purple line of the Blue Mountains cuts the horizon. On the margin of this
+plain the little town of Irrigon (where is published a paper with the
+alliterative title of the <i>Irrigon Irrigationist of Irrigon, Oregon</i>),
+green and flowery in the wide aridity, shows us again what part water
+plays in reclamation of land. Of similar interest is Blalock Island,
+commemorating the name of Dr. N. G. Blalock of Walla Walla, whom the
+North-west honours as the father of great enterprises.</p>
+
+<p>We pass several rapids on this section of the River, the chief of which
+are the Umatilla, John Day, and Hell-gate. These are somewhat serious
+impediments to navigation at low water. The Umatilla Rapid presents the
+curious feature of a reef extending almost directly across the River with
+the channel running parallel to it and at right angles to the course of
+the stream. Hence when the water is so low that the reef cannot be passed
+directly over, the steamer pilot must follow a channel running right
+across the current, a current which tends to throw him broadside onto the
+reef. The Government is at present engaged in blasting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</a></span> a channel
+directly through this reef. The country becomes more rugged as we descend,
+and at various points, if the sky be clear, we can see the great peaks of
+the Cascades to the west. Passing through the wild water of Hell-gate,
+where the steamer quivers as though great hands were reaching up from
+below and shaking her, we soon find ourselves at Celilo.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img56.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Witch&#8217;s Head, near Old Wishram Village.<br />The Indian Superstition Is
+that these Eyes will Follow Any Unfaithful Woman.<br />By Courtesy of Major Lee Moorehouse.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>This is the beginning of the greatest series of obstructions on the River
+and the point where the Government is now constructing a canal, by means
+of which the entire upper course of the River will be brought into
+connection with the lower. In the distance of twelve miles the River falls
+eighty-one feet at low water and sixty feet at high water. The Tumwater
+Falls at the head of this series of obstructions has a descent of twenty
+feet at low water, but at high water the volume of the River is so great
+that it passes directly over the fall and a boat can shoot over the steep
+slope. Here was one of the most famous places in early history. On the
+north side was the Wishram village, noted in Irving&#8217;s <i>Astoria</i>. This,
+too, was the greatest place for fishing on the upper River. Even now the
+Indians gather in autumn in great numbers and can be seen spearing the
+salmon. Several immense fish-wheels also can be seen upon the verge of the
+falls.</p>
+
+<p>The most remarkable of all these obstructions is Five-Mile Rapids. This is
+the place to which in the first place the French <i>voyageurs</i> applied the
+name <i>Dalles</i>, meaning a trough through the flat plates of rock. It is
+sometimes called the &#8220;Big Chute.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>It is planned by the Government to overcome these obstructions by a canal
+and locks. The expense is estimated at four and a half million dollars.
+The <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</a></span>resulting advantages will be vast. The greater part of the Inland
+Empire will be thrown open to steamer competition with the railroads. The
+freight tariff at the present time is heavier than in any other part of
+the United States. If the productive capacity of the region were not
+extraordinary, it could not have developed as it has with such a handicap.
+It is estimated that by the reduction of freight which will follow
+steamboat navigation, the Inland Empire will save not less than two
+million dollars annually. In the tremendous movement now sweeping over our
+country to improve waterways, the Columbia will bear its part and receive
+its improvement. It will be a great day for the storied and scenic River
+of the West when some magnificent excursion steamer descends the thousand
+miles from Revelstoke to the outer headlands. And with canals at Celilo,
+Priest Rapids, and Kettle Falls, with some improvements at minor points,
+at no immoderate expense, the thing can be done.</p>
+
+<p>And now we reach the city of The Dalles. The traveller will find this a
+place hardly surpassed in historic interest by any other on the River. The
+old trading posts, the United States fort, the missions, the Indian wars,
+the early immigrations, the steamboat enterprises, all unite to give rare
+value to this picturesque &#8220;capital of the sheep country.&#8221; For, aside from
+historic interest, The Dalles surpasses any other point in the United
+States as a wool shipping station. It is now becoming also the centre of a
+farming and orchard country. For it is now understood that the rolling
+hill land for many miles is adapted to wheat raising and to fruit of the
+finest quality. If our visitors to the River should happen to be in The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</a></span>
+Dalles in autumn they would find at the Wasco County Horticultural Fair
+one of the most attractive and appetising displays of fruit that the whole
+country affords.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img57.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Cabbage Rock, Four Miles North of The Dalles.<br />Photo. by Lee Moorehouse, Pendleton.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The scenery about The Dalles, with the majestic River, the great white
+cones of Hood and Adams, and wide sweeps of rolling prairie and hollowed
+hills, is noble and inspiring. It may be considered the gateway of the
+open prairie to the east and the passage of the Cascade Mountains by the
+River to the west.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_2.IV" id="CHAPTER_2.IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h3>
+<p class="chapter">Where River and Mountain Meet, and the Traces of the Bridge of the Gods</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">The Most Unique Point yet on the River&mdash;River, Mountains, and
+Tide&mdash;The Only Place where the Cascade Range is Cleft&mdash;Distant View of
+Mt. Hood and Gradual Appearance of Lesser Heights&mdash;Limits of Region
+where River and Mountain Meet&mdash;Geological Character of this
+Region&mdash;Forces of Upheaval and Erosion and Volcano&mdash;We May Journey by
+Rail, by Steamboat, Horseback, Waggon, or Afoot, but we Prefer a
+Rowboat&mdash;Paha Cliffs&mdash;On the Track of Speelyei&mdash;Memaloose Island&mdash;Hood
+River and White Salmon Valleys and their Fruit&mdash;Beginnings of the
+Great Heights&mdash;The Sunken Forest&mdash;The Bridge of the Gods&mdash;Loowit,
+Wiyeast, and Klickitat&mdash;Difference in Climate between the
+East-of-the-Mountains and the West&mdash;Sheridan&#8217;s Old Blockhouse&mdash;Passing
+the Locks&mdash;Petrified Trees&mdash;Fish-wheels&mdash;Castle Rock&mdash;Ascent of Castle
+Rock&mdash;Story of Wehatpolitan&mdash;St. Peter&#8217;s Dome&mdash;Oneonta
+Gorge&mdash;Multnomah Falls&mdash;Cape Horn&mdash;Getting out of the Mountains&mdash;Cape
+Eternity and Rooster Rock&mdash;This Section of the Journey
+Ended&mdash;Comparison of the River with Other Great Scenes.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">In</span> the long journey down our River we have had a panoramic view of
+towering mountains and broad plains, foaming cataracts and tranquil lakes,
+fruitful valleys and volcanic desolations, growing cities and lonely
+wastes. All illustrate that infinite variety of the River which imparts
+its unrivalled charm.</p>
+
+<p>But now we are approaching a point which is unique even in the midst of
+the unique, varied in never-ending variety, sublime even in almost
+continuous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</a></span> sublimity, singular even upon our most singular River. This
+place is where the mountains and the River meet. By mountains we mean the
+great chain of the Cascades, which under various names parallels the
+Pacific Coast all the way from Alaska to Southern California. But not only
+do mountains and River meet here, but the ocean sends his greetings, for
+at the lower end of the rapids which here mark the gateway of the
+mountains, the first pulse-beat of the Pacific, the first throb of the
+tide, is discernible, though it is a hundred and sixty miles farther to
+where the River is lost in that greatest of the oceans. River, Mountains,
+Ocean,&mdash;a very symposium of sublimities.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img58.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Eagle Rock, just above Shoshone Falls in Snake River.<br />Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>There is, too, another especially interesting feature of this spot, and
+that is, it is the only place for twelve hundred miles where the
+Cascade-Sierra Range is cleft asunder. In fact it is the only place in the
+entire extent of the range where it is cut squarely across. This fact
+imparts not only scenic interest, but commercial value. It is the only
+water-level route from the seacoast to the Inland Empire.</p>
+
+<p>The place where River and mountains meet had been heralded to us long
+before we reached it. For as we passed the plains of the Umatilla we got
+an intimation of the mountain majesty which we were approaching.
+Clear-limned against the south-western horizon, a glistening cone,
+cold-white in the earliest morning, rosy-red with the rising dawn, and
+warm with the yellow halo of noon, fixes our eyes and bids us realise that
+from the far vision of a hundred miles we can see and worship at the
+shrine of Oregon&#8217;s noblest and most historic peak, Mt. Hood. As we speed
+on down the current we begin to see long lines<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</a></span> of lesser peaks rising to
+the westward. The prairies of the Umatilla have been succeeded by
+picturesque bare hills, and these by ragged palisades of columnar basalt,
+with higher hills yet, crowned with gnarled oak-trees. Of the wheat-fields
+and orchards and sheep ranges centring at The Dalles, we have already
+spoken, and we have paused at Celilo and gazed on the historic &#8220;Timm,&#8221; or
+the Tumwater Falls, and the &#8220;Big Chute,&#8221; observing especially the
+Government canal and locks now started, from whose completion such vast
+commercial possibilities are plainly foreshadowed. Our present quest is
+therefore yet farther on, to the gateway of the mountains. This is found
+at the &#8220;Cascade Locks,&#8221; fifty miles below Dalles City. The section of
+river which we have styled &#8220;Where River and Mountain Meet&#8221; may be
+considered as extending from the mouth of the Klickitat River, a few miles
+west of Dalles City, to Rooster Rock, about thirty miles east of
+Vancouver. The distance between these points is about fifty miles, and
+through this space we may see all the evidences of a titanic struggle
+between the master forces of fire and water and upheaval. As we descend
+the majestic stream with the majestic banks on either hand and mark the
+apparent ancient water-marks hundreds of feet above our heads, we recall
+the Indian myth of Wishpoosh in an earlier chapter. The opinion of
+geologists in regard to this extraordinary passageway of the River is that
+it represents ages of gradual elevation of the mountain chain and a
+cotemporary erosion by the River, so that as the heights became higher,
+the river bed became deeper. The one-time shore slowly mounted skyward,
+and as the new upheavals rose from the ocean deeps the lines of erosion<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</a></span>
+were in turn wrought on them, and river shore succeeded river shore
+through long ages. With these fundamental forces of upheaval and erosion
+there were eras of local seismic and volcanic activity, more cataclysmic
+in nature, from which there came the magnificent pillars of columnar
+basalt and the first trenching of the profound chasms which subsequent
+lateral streams carved through the rising base of the great range.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img59.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Stehekin Ca&ntilde;on, 5000 Feet Deep.<br />Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>To view this great picture gallery of history and physiography, we may
+have the choice of nearly every method of travel, horseback, afoot, by
+team (though the waggon roads are not continuous), or by train, on either
+bank. The river himself offers his broad back for any kind of craft.
+Several swift and elegant steamers make daily trips between Portland and
+The Dalles, passing through the Government canal and lock at the Cascades.
+Launches, scows, sailing craft of almost every kind, are in constant
+movement, loaded with every sort of commodity. Of all the means of
+transit, however, we will, if you please, float down the stately stream in
+our well-tried skiff. Independent as the Coyote god Speelyei when he used
+to pass up and down the river, transforming presumptuous beasts or mortals
+into rock at will, we will drift with the current, partaking of the very
+life of the rich and multifarious nature about us. We can pause as we wish
+on jutting crag or fir-crowned promontory or at the foot of spouting
+cataract. We can camp for the night beneath some wide-spreading pine, and
+breathe the balsamic fragrance of the &#8220;continuous woods.&#8221; We can trace the
+historic stages of bateaux or canoes or immigrant flatboats, and open and
+shut the camera at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span> will amid the open volumes of our heroic age of
+discovery and settlement, or the yet vaster and grander epoch of Nature&#8217;s
+creative day. No palace car or even floating palace of steamer for us when
+we can have two or three days of such unalloyed bliss in an open skiff
+moving at our own sweet will.</p>
+
+<p>We shall find here a marked change in the movement of the river as
+compared with its prevailing character in the five hundred miles from the
+British line to The Dalles. The impetuous might above has become
+transformed into a slow and stately majesty. With the exception of the
+five miles at the Cascades round which the canal passes, the river below
+The Dalles is deep and calm, seldom less than a mile in width.</p>
+
+<p>Of the almost numberless objects at which we level eye and camera, we can
+here describe but few.</p>
+
+<p>A fitting introduction to this stage of our journey is found in Paha
+Cliffs at the mouth of the Klickitat, a perpendicular bastion of lava
+rock, not remarkable for height, but of such regularity and symmetry as to
+seem the work of men&#8217;s hands. A short distance below the Paha Cliffs, also
+on the Washington side of the river, is a most singular semicircular wall
+of gigantic area, surrounding on the west what seems to be an immense
+sunken enclosure. The Indians have a story to the effect that once
+Speelyei, being on his way up the river before this wall existed, paused
+here to perform some unworthy deed (for Speelyei was a curious mixture of
+the noble and the base). Having done the deed, he began to fear that it
+would become known. So he hurriedly built a wall to keep in the report.
+But while he was engaged in building on the west, the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</a></span>report got out on
+the east. The wall that we now see is the remains of his building. Of a
+similar order of Indian fancy is the &#8220;Baby-on-the-Board&#8221; and the &#8220;Coyote
+Head&#8221; farther down the river, also on the north side. The Coyote Head is
+near White Salmon. It commemorates the transformation of a presumptuous
+Klickitat chief who wished to proclaim himself equal to Speelyei, so he
+crowned himself with a coyote skin and took his station on the great rock
+wall above the mouth of the White Salmon. And there he remains still, for
+Speelyei with a wave of the hand transformed the offending chieftain into
+rock.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img60.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Steamer <i>Dalles City</i> Descending the Cascades of the Columbia.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>A few miles below the mouth of the Klickitat, there stands in mid-channel
+one of the most curious and interesting objects on the river, &#8220;Memaloose
+Island.&#8221; This desolate islet of basalt was one of the most noted of the
+frequent &#8220;death&#8221; or burial places of the Indians. They were accustomed to
+build platforms and place the dead upon them. Apparently this island was
+used for its gruesome purpose for centuries. A large white marble monument
+facing the south attracts the attention of all travellers, and as we pass
+we see that it is sacred to the memory of Vic Trevett. He was a prominent
+pioneer of The Dalles, and in the course of his various experiences became
+a special friend of the Indians, who looked upon him with such love and
+reverence that when his end approached he gave directions that his
+permanent burial-place and monument should be on the place sacred to his
+aboriginal friends.</p>
+
+<p>We have spoken of the region between the mouth of the Klickitat and
+Rooster Rock as the mountain section of the river. But as we move on down
+the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</a></span> stream we discover that there are numerous nooks and glens adjoining
+it which are the choicest locations for fruit and garden ranches. At a
+point just about midway from The Dalles to the Cascades there is a
+remarkable break in the otherwise unbroken and constantly rising mountain
+walls. This break constitutes one of the most charming residence regions
+on the Columbia shores, and at the same time the avenue of approach to the
+most magnificent of mountains. There are here two great valleys. One of
+these is that of Hood River, better called by its musical Indian name
+Waukoma, &#8220;The Place of Cottonwoods.&#8221; It proceeds directly from the foot of
+Mt. Hood, twenty-five miles distant to the south. The valley on the north
+bears a similar relation to Mt. Adams, forty miles distant, and is drained
+by the White Salmon River. From favourable points on the River, or from
+the heights which border it, we obtain views of the two peaks which create
+an unappeasable longing to tread their crags and snow-fields. Though truly
+mountain valleys, these two valleys are of spacious extent. They are
+moreover so richly provided with sun and water and all the ingredients of
+soil necessary to produce the choicest fruit that they have become the
+very paradise of the orchardist. The Hood River apples grace the tables of
+royalty in the old world and delight the palates of epicures in both
+hemispheres, while to the eyes and the nostrils of any one of delicate
+sensibilities their colour and fragrance impart a still more &aelig;sthetic
+charm.</p>
+
+<p>As we pass on down the river from those two vales of beauty and plenty, we
+begin to see the first of those lofty crags on either hand, the basaltic
+pinnacles, turretted, spired, castellated, which make the distinguishing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</a></span>
+feature of Columbia River scenery for these fifty miles. Mitchell&#8217;s Point,
+Shell Mountain, Wind Mountain, Bald Mountain, and Mt. Defiance are the
+first group. The lowest of the group attains an elevation of nearly two
+thousand feet, almost perpendicular, while at the summit of the crags rise
+a thousand feet higher yet long grassy slopes alternating with splendid
+forests.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img61.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Memaloose Island, Columbia River.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>As we near the Cascades we note another curious phenomenon. This is the
+sunken forest on either side. At low water these old tree trunks become
+very observable, and their general appearance suggests at once that they
+are the remains of a former forest submerged by a permanent rise in the
+river. This explanation is confirmed by the fact that from The Dalles to
+the Cascades the river is very deep and sluggish. When we reach the
+Cascades a third fact is revealed and that is that at the chief cataract
+the river bank is continually sliding into the river. Trees are thrown
+down by this slow sliding process, railroad tracks require frequent
+adjustment, and on clear, still nights there is sometimes heard a grinding
+sound, while a tremor from the subterranean regions seems to indicate that
+the upper stratum is sliding over the lower toward the river. In fact, the
+mighty force of the stream is all the time eating into the bank and
+gradually drawing it down.</p>
+
+<p>From those and other indications the conclusion has been drawn that some
+prodigious avalanche of rock at a not long distant time dammed the river
+at this point, creating the present Cascades and raising the water above
+so as to submerge the forest, whose remains now attract the attention of
+the observer at the low stage of water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</a></span>To confirm this theory we have the Indian story of the &#8220;tomanowas bridge,&#8221;
+the quaintest and most interesting of the long list of native myths.</p>
+
+<p>The region around the old site of the &#8220;Bridge of the Gods&#8221; may be
+considered as the dividing line between the Inland Empire and the Coast
+Region. Above, it is dry, sunny, breezy, and electrical, the land of
+wheat-field and sheep ranges, cow-boys and horses and mining camps. Below,
+it is cool, cloudy, still, and soft, the region of the clover and the
+dairy, the salmon cannery, the logging camp, and boats of every sort.
+Above, the rocks look dry and hard, and glitter in the sun. Below, the
+rocks are draped in moss, and from every ca&ntilde;on and ledge there seems to
+issue a foaming torrent. It is, in truth, the meeting place of mountain
+and River.</p>
+
+<p>On all sides around the Cascades there are objects of natural and historic
+interest. Stupendous crags, often streaked with snow, lose themselves in
+the scud of the ocean which is almost constantly flying eastward to be
+absorbed in the more fervid sunshine of up-river. Perhaps the most
+impressive of these vast heights is Table Mountain, on the north side of
+the River, near the locks, said to have been one of the supports of the
+&#8220;Bridge of the Gods.&#8221; Its colours of saffron and crimson add to the
+splendour and grandeur of its appearance. Just below the locks on the
+north side stood the old blockhouse built by a young lieutenant in 1856 as
+a defence against the Klickitat Indians. The blockhouse is now in ruins,
+but the name of its builder has been fairly well preserved, for it
+is&mdash;Phil Sheridan.</p>
+
+<p>The total extent of the cataract at the Cascades is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</a></span> five miles and the
+descent is about forty-five feet, of which half is at the upper end at the
+point passed by the locks. We enter the locks in the wake of one of the
+steamers, and in a few minutes find our craft emerging from the lower end
+of the massive structure into the white water which bears us swiftly down
+the remaining part of the Cascades. It looks dangerous to commit an open
+boat to that sweeping current, but as a matter of fact the course of the
+river is straight and deep, though swift, and it is entirely feasible for
+any one of reasonable skill to manage a small boat in the passageway to
+the tranquil expanses below.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img62.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Horseshoe Basin, near Lake Chelan, Wash.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>As we speed swiftly down the river, we note the little station of
+Bonneville, named for the historic fur-trader whom the fascinating pages
+of Irving have brought down to this era. A short distance below Bonneville
+our eyes catch sight of a white sign-board bearing the words, &#8220;Petrified
+Tree.&#8221; Sure enough, there is the tree, and a marvellously fine specimen of
+silicification it is, too. When the railroad was built along the river
+bank at this point, the graders ran into a perfect forest of petrified
+wood. The logs and limbs were piled up by the cord near Bonneville, but
+the larger part has been taken in various directions for cabinets and
+ornaments.</p>
+
+<p>But a short time is needed to fly down the Cascades, and at their lower
+end we reach what may be called the Lower River. For here a slight rise
+and fall of tide betokens the presence of the ocean. No more rapids on the
+River, but a tranquil, majestic flood, broadening like a sea toward its
+final destination, a hundred and sixty miles away.</p>
+
+<p>If we were to describe in detail all the marvels of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[Pg 342]</a></span> beauty and grandeur
+and physical interest which engage our attention at every stage of the
+journey, our volume would end with this chapter, for there would be no
+room for anything more. One class of objects of curious interest to almost
+all travellers, though of no special charm to scientist or nature lover,
+is the fish-wheels at the Cascades. These are very ingenious contrivances
+set in the midst of a swift place in the stream and made to revolve by the
+current. As they revolve, the huge vans dipping the water scoop up almost
+incredible numbers of the salmon which have made the Columbia famous the
+world over. A weir is built to turn the fish from the outside course into
+the channel of the wheel, with the result that numbers are taken almost
+beyond belief, sometimes as high as eight tons a day by a single wheel.
+Another picturesque sight, both at the Celilo Falls and the Cascades, is
+the Indian fishermen perched upon the rocks and with spear and dip-net
+seeking to fill their larder with the noble salmon.</p>
+
+<p>But now to contemplate the works of God and Nature rather than those of
+man. We must, as already seen, by the necessities of space, ask our
+readers to share with us only the masterpieces of this gallery of wonders.
+Probably all visitors to the River would agree that the following scenes
+most nearly express the spirit and character of the sublime whole: Castle
+Rock, St. Peter&#8217;s Dome, Oneonta Gorge, Multnomah Falls, Cape Horn, and
+Rooster Rock. To these individual scenes we should add, as the very crown
+of all, the view at the lower Cascades both up and down the great gorge.
+With the majestic heights, scarred with the tempests and the earthquakes
+of the ages, swathed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</a></span> in drifting clouds and oftentimes tipped with snow,
+and the shimmering of the River, and the answering grandeur of sky and
+forest,&mdash;this grouping of the whole is more inspiring than any one scene.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img63.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Castle Rock, Columbia River.<br />(Copyright by Kiser Photograph Co., 1902.)</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The first special object to fix our attention below the Cascades is Castle
+Rock. It is an isolated cliff of basalt, nine hundred feet high, covering
+about seventeen acres, its summit thinly clothed with stunted trees. It
+stands right on the verge of the River, nearly perpendicular on all sides,
+marvellous for symmetry from every point of view. At first sight one gets
+no conception of its magnitude, for it is dwarfed by the stupendous
+pinnacles, three thousand feet high, which compose the walls of the ca&ntilde;on.
+It is said that some Eastern lady, seeing it from a steamer&#8217;s deck,
+exclaimed, &#8220;See that fine rock! I wish I had it in my back yard at home.&#8221;
+Being informed that she would have to find a pretty spacious back yard to
+accommodate an ornament covering seventeen acres, she was too much
+astonished to believe it. But to any one viewing it deliberately and from
+every point of view, and especially landing, as we in our happy method of
+travel can do, and going about its base, it becomes evident that Castle
+Rock might be called a mountain in almost any other place. It was for a
+long time regarded as an impossible thing to reach the summit. For some
+years there was a standing offer of one thousand dollars for any one who
+would place the Stars and Stripes on the summit. But no one took the dare.
+At last in 1901, when the rivalry between two steamboat lines was keen,
+Frank Smith of the Regulator Line, with George Purser and Charles Church,
+accomplished the seemingly impossible, and,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[Pg 344]</a></span> by ropes and staples and
+fingers and teeth and toenails, scaled the almost perpendicular walls, and
+unfurled the Regulator banner to the breeze where no flag ever flew
+before, nor human foot ever trod. It was probably the most risky climb
+ever taken in the North-west. A little later, by the aid of the experience
+of this party, several others attained the summit. Among these were George
+Maxwell, who set the Oregon Railway and Navigation flag as high as that of
+the Regulator had gone, and two photographers, W. C. Staatz and George M.
+Weister. With them went a young lady, Lilian White, who, though she did
+not reach the summit, went higher than any of her sex have gone. Later Mr.
+Whitney, manager of the great McGowan Cannery, went up and placed the
+Stars and Stripes upon the top.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img64.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">The Lyman Glacier and Glacier Lake in North Star Park Near Lake Chelan.<br />Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>We said that no earlier human steps had trodden that beetling height and
+that Miss White had gone higher than any of her sex. But if we accept the
+romantic Indian tale of Wehatpolitan, our statement needs correction. For
+this story is to the following effect. Wehatpolitan was the beautiful
+child of the principal chieftain in these parts. She loved and was loved
+by a young chief of a neighbouring tribe. But when she was sought by her
+lover in marriage, the stern father denied the request and killed the
+messenger. But the lovers were secretly married and met clandestinely at
+various times. In course of time the father, thinking the infatuation of
+the forbidden lovers to be at an end, gave Wehatpolitan to a chief whom he
+had favoured. The latter kept constant watch of the girl, and one night he
+saw her stealing steathily away, and tracking her he found the secret<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[Pg 345]</a></span> of
+her midnight wanderings. As soon as the new lover had imparted to the
+father these tidings, the latter with deep duplicity sent word to the
+other chieftain that if he would come to the lodge, all would be forgiven
+and he and Wehatpolitan would be duly wed. Rejoicing at the happy outcome
+to all their troubles, the faithful lover hastened to his own, but no
+sooner had he arrived than he was seized upon and slain by the revengeful
+parent. Not long after this the heartbroken girl gave birth to a child,
+but her father at once decreed that the child must share its father&#8217;s
+fate. Hearing this pitiless word, Wehatpolitan caught up her child and
+disappeared. All that day they searched in vain, and on the next day, the
+Indians heard wailings from the top of Castle Rock, from which they soon
+discovered that the poor girl with her child had gone to that apparently
+inaccessible height. The old chief, repenting of his harsh course, called
+aloud to his daughter to come down and he would forgive her. But fearing
+new treachery she paid no heed, and the wailings continued. Overcome with
+grief the remorseful chief offered all kinds of rewards for any one who
+would climb the rock and save Wehatpolitan and her child. But though many
+tried, none could succeed. On the third day the wailings ceased. Then the
+half-crazed father himself essayed to climb. He seemed to succeed, for at
+least he disappeared among the crevices of the rock high up toward the
+summit. But he never returned. The Indians thought that he reached the top
+and that finding the lifeless bodies of his daughter and her child he had
+probably given up all hope of getting down and had lain down and died with
+them. But even yet heart-breaking wailings<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[Pg 346]</a></span> come down from time to time,
+especially when the Chinook blows soft and damp up the river, and these
+wailings have been thought by Indians to be the voice of the spirit of the
+unhappy Wehatpolitan, because it could never descend to the happy hunting
+grounds of the tribe.</p>
+
+<p>Another native idea is to the effect that Castle Rock (which ought to be
+called Wehatpolitan&#8217;s gravestone) is hollow and is filled with the bodies
+of former generations now turned to stone. As a matter of fact, the party
+of 1901 found evidence of a great cave, but so far there has been found no
+practical ingress. So the interior is still an unexplored mystery. Immense
+quantities of spear-heads and arrow-heads are found along the river at
+this point, and these are apparently of an earlier age than most of those
+found in this country.</p>
+
+<p>Loosing from the enchanted shore of Wehatpolitan&#8217;s monument, we see for
+several miles on the Oregon side a cordon of perpendicular cliffs, red and
+purple in hue, streaked with spray, and touched here and there with the
+deep green of firs which have rooted themselves with claw-like roots into
+the crevices. Most symmetrical and beautiful, though not the highest of
+this line of elevations, is St. Peter&#8217;s Dome. Its summit is over two
+thousand feet above the river. While in height it is surpassed by certain
+crags of Chelan or Yosemite, as well as its brothers on the river, it has
+no rival in beauty there, or elsewhere, so far as the author has seen,
+among the wonders of the American continent. Every hour of the day, every
+change of sky or season, reveals some new and unexpected beauty or
+sublimity in this superb cliff.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img65.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Hunters on Lake Chelan, with their Spoils.<br />Photo. by W. D. Lyman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img66.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">A Morning&#8217;s Catch on the Touchet, near Dayton, Wash.<br /><i>Sunset Magazine.</i></p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[Pg 347]</a></span>We are almost sated with sublimities by the time we pass on down below St.
+Peter&#8217;s Dome, but one of the most unique scenes of all is close at hand.
+This is Oneonta Gorge. A swift stream issuing from the cliffs on the south
+side of the River attracts our attention, and we moor our boat to the
+roots of a tall cottonwood and make our way inward. The wall is cleft
+asunder, its sides almost meeting above. At places the smooth sides of the
+Gorge leave no space except for the passage of the pellucid stream, and we
+have to wade hip deep to make our way. Showers of spray descend from the
+towering roof above, and in places we are well-nigh in darkness. Then
+there is a widening and through the broken wall the lances of sunshine
+pierce the gloom with rainbow tints. Marvellous Oneonta with the
+sweet-sounding name! It, too, has its wealth of native myth, of which our
+narrowing limits forbid us to speak.</p>
+
+<p>And now leaving Oneonta, we can see that we have passed the maximum of the
+mountains, and are already looking into a broadening valley, with the yet
+more lordly volume of the river widening toward the sunset. While our eyes
+are thus drawn toward the river, the diminishing walls of the ca&ntilde;on, and
+the fair entrance to what may be called the genuine West-of-the-Mountains,
+we perceive on the Oregon shore a series of waterfalls, higher and grander
+than has even been the wont, and in the midst of them, far-famed
+Multnomah. A spacious sweep of circling mountains, a perpendicular wall,
+indented with a deep recess, and crowned upon its topmost bastions with a
+row of frightened looking trees, and partially visible through
+intercepting cottonwoods at the River&#8217;s margin a moving<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[Pg 348]</a></span> whiteness,&mdash;such
+is the first vision of this matchless waterfall. A short space farther
+carries us past the screen of cottonwoods, and the whole majestic scene
+lies before us. Like St. Peter&#8217;s Dome or Castle Rock or Niagara or
+Yosemite or Chelan or Mt. &#8220;Takhoma,&#8221; this scene of Multnomah Falls with
+its surroundings wears that aspect of eternity, that look of final
+perfectness, which marks the great works of nature and of art. The cliff
+almost overhangs, so that except when deflected by the wind against a
+projecting ledge the water leaps sheer through the air its eight hundred
+feet of fall. It is mainly spray when it reaches the deep pool within the
+recess of the mountain, and from that recess the regathered waters pour in
+a final plunge, from which the stream takes its way through the
+cottonwoods to the River.</p>
+
+<p>We disembark and climb to the pool which receives the great fall. We find
+it sunless and almost black in hue from the intensity of the shadows. The
+maidenhair fern which grows at the edge of the pool is nearly white in its
+cool dark abode. The water falls into the pool with a weird, uncanny
+&#8220;chug,&#8221; rather than a splash, so great is the sheer fall and so largely
+does the water consist of spray alternating with &#8220;chunks&#8221;&mdash;if we may so
+express it&mdash;of water. The pool is large enough to hold a steamboat and of
+considerable depth. A pretty rustic bridge spans the gorge through which
+the stream passes on its way from the pool, and below the bridge is the
+final fall of seventy-five feet. On account of its proximity to Portland
+and the frequent steamboat excursions, Multnomah has become quite a
+resort. While the creek is only of moderate size in summer, and the fall
+is notable rather for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[Pg 349]</a></span> beauty than energy, yet when swollen by the rains
+and melting snows of winter and spring it takes on the dimensions of a
+river. Then the fall hurling its great volume over the eight hundred feet
+of open space assumes an appalling sublimity.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img67.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Oneonta Gorge&mdash;Looking In.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>And now with the sounds of the fall ringing in our ears and our eyes
+turned back for a final reluctant gaze, we make our way across the River
+and a short distance down to the next wonder on the Washington side. This
+is Cape Horn. It is a long palisade of basalt, not high compared to most
+of the river walls, being only about two hundred feet high, but it is the
+most complete example of continuous basaltic formation on the River. The
+beauty and symmetry of the formation, the deeps of the River reflecting
+the escarpment of rock, the wide-opening vista of hazy islands and
+extending plains down-stream;&mdash;all these together compose a scene unique
+in itself and, though so different, placing Cape Horn in the same gallery
+of royal pictures which we have been gathering.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles below Cape Horn it becomes apparent that we are about to issue
+from the mountain pass. The heights have fallen away. Deep valleys appear
+and many habitations attest the cultivable character of the region. But as
+if to show that she has not exhausted her resources, wonder-working Nature
+has set one more masterpiece in the long line, and this is Rooster Rock,
+with a mighty rampart of rock adjoining and closing the southern horizon.
+Together they mark the western limit of the mountains. That rampart, which
+was once well named Cape Eternity, though the name does not seem to have
+been preserved, is a sheer massive precipice of a thousand<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[Pg 350]</a></span> feet. Though
+not nearly so high as some of the cliffs above, it is not surpassed by any
+for the appearance of solid and massive power. Rooster Rock is
+distinguished by a singular and exquisite beauty, rather than magnitude or
+grandeur. It is only three hundred and fifty feet high, but in form and
+colour and alternation of rock and trees it is the most beautiful object
+on the River.</p>
+
+<p>With a farewell to Cape Eternity and Rooster Rock we are out of the
+mountains, and this stage of our long journey is at an end. If we were to
+compare the section of the River which we have described in this chapter
+with other great scenes in our country, we would say that this section of
+the Columbia from Paha Cliffs to Rooster Rock possesses a greater variety
+than any other. Chelan has loftier cliffs, clearer and deeper water, and a
+certain chaotic and elemental energy beyond comparison. The Yellowstone
+has a greater richness of colouring and larger waterfalls, together with
+the unique features of the geysers. Yosemite has loftier waterfalls and
+has cliffs that in some respects are even more imposing. Puget Sound has
+finer distant scenes, with lagoons and channels and archipelagoes. Each of
+these grand exhibitions of nature&#8217;s works is equal or even superior to the
+Columbia Gorge in some special feature. But the River has every feature.
+It has cliffs and mountains and waterfalls and cataracts, valleys and
+forests, broad marine views near and distant, colour and form, shore and
+sky, earth and air and water, a commingling of all elements of beauty,
+grandeur, and physical interest. Add to this, that, up or down, the broad
+waters of the River are accessible to every form of floating<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[Pg 351]</a></span> craft, and
+that Portland, one of the most beautiful and progressive cities of the
+West, destined to become one of the great cities of the world, sits at the
+very gates of admission to this symposium of grandeurs and wonders, and we
+have such an aggregation of charms that we may well suppose that all the
+other great scenic regions would bow before our great River and
+acknowledge him as the king of all.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img68.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Cape Horn, Columbia River&mdash;Looking Up.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[Pg 352]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_2.V" id="CHAPTER_2.V"></a>CHAPTER V</h3>
+<p class="chapter">A Side Trip to Some of the Great Snow-Peaks</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Attractions of our Mountain Peaks&mdash;Relations to the Rivers&mdash;Locations
+of the Greatest and their Positions with Regard to the Cities and the
+Routes of Travel&mdash;The Mountain Clubs&mdash;The Peaks, Especially Belonging
+to the River: Hood, Adams, and St. Helens&mdash;A Journey to Hood&mdash;Beauty
+of the Approach through Hood River Valley&mdash;Lost Lake&mdash;Cloud-Cap Inn
+and Elliot Glacier&mdash;Extreme Steepness of the Ascent&mdash;Magnificence of
+the View&mdash;Mt. Adams&mdash;The Hunting and Fishing&mdash;The Glaciers&mdash;The
+Vegetation about the Snow-Line&mdash;The Night Storm&mdash;Morning and the
+Ascent&mdash;Views Around, Up, Down&mdash;Ascent by the Mazama Club in 1902 and
+the Transformation Scene&mdash;General Similarity of Ascent of our
+Peaks&mdash;Zones of a Snow-Peak.</p></div>
+
+<p class="center">&#8220;<i>Nesika Klatawa Sahale</i>&#8221;</p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">Most</span> countries have rivers of beauty and grandeur; many have lakes of
+scenic charm; many have hills and mountain chains; but there is only one
+country in the United States that has all of these features, and, in
+addition, a number of isolated giant peaks, clad in permanent ice and
+snow. That country is the Pacific North-west. Throughout Oregon and
+Washington and extending partly through California is a series of volcanic
+peaks which gather within themselves every feature of natural beauty,
+sublimity, and wonder.</p>
+
+<p>The fifteen most conspicuous of these peaks, beginning with Baker or
+Kulshan on the north, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[Pg 353]</a></span> ending with Pitt on the south, are spaced at
+nearly regular intervals of from thirty to fifty miles, except for the one
+group of the Three Sisters, which, though distinct peaks, are separated
+only by narrow valleys. Most of these great peaks are somewhat remote from
+the cities or the great routes of public travel, and hence are not easily
+accessible to ordinary tourists. None of them, except Hood and Rainier or
+Tacoma, possesses hotel accommodations. The natives are more accustomed to
+&#8220;roughing it,&#8221; and braving the wilderness than most Eastern people are,
+and hence many parties go annually from the chief cities of Oregon and
+Washington to the great peaks. Some of them, as Glacier Peak and Shuksan,
+are so environed with mountain ramparts and almost impassable ca&ntilde;ons as to
+be practically unknown. The most approachable and the most visited are
+Hood, Rainier, and Adams.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img69.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Looking up the Columbia River from the Cliff above Multnomah Falls, Ore.<br />(Copyright, Kiser Photograph Co., 1902.)</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The greatest influence in organising visits to these mountains, and in
+cultivating an appreciation of them among the people of the region, as
+well as in informing the world regarding them, has existed in the mountain
+clubs. The chief of these are the Mazama (Wild Goat) Club of Portland and
+the Mountaineers of Seattle. Membership is not confined to those two
+cities, though mainly located there. The Mazama Club may be called the
+historic mountain climber&#8217;s club, and it has done incalculable good in
+fostering a love of mountains and in arranging expeditions to them.</p>
+
+<p>The three peaks which may be considered as especially belonging to the
+Columbia River are Hood, Adams, and St. Helens. As the traveller on the
+River views the unsullied spires and domes of these great<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[Pg 354]</a></span> temples of
+nature, he longs to worship in their more immediate presence. As a logical
+consequence of this sentiment, after having floated down the Columbia from
+The Dalles to Rooster Rock, we feel that life would be at least partly in
+vain if we should fail to plant feet on the topmost snows of at least two
+of these great heights.</p>
+
+<p>We will first visit Hood. Though not the highest, this is the boldest and
+most picturesque of all. Moreover by reason of its location, seen
+conspicuously as it is from Portland and the Willamette Valley, and
+because of its nearness to the old immigrant road into Oregon, Hood was
+the first noticed, and the most often described, painted, and berhymed of
+any of the wintry brotherhood. As the Puget Sound region became settled,
+and great cities began to grow up there, Mt. Rainier (&#8220;Takhoma&#8221;) began to
+be a rival in popular estimation. When measurements showed that Rainier
+was three thousand feet higher, and Adams over one thousand feet higher
+than the idolised Hood, a wail of grief arose from the Oregonians, and for
+a time they could hardly be reconciled. But as they became adjusted to the
+situation, they planted themselves upon the proposition that, though Hood
+was not the highest, it was the most beautiful, and that its surroundings
+were superior to those of any other. For this proposition there is much to
+be said, though, in truth, we must accept the dictum of Dogberry that
+&#8220;comparisons are odorous&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>The usual approach to Mt. Hood by the Hood River route is indeed of
+striking attractiveness. This picturesque orchard valley is like an avenue
+of flowers leading to a marble temple. One of the finest points<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[Pg 355]</a></span> in the
+vicinity of Hood River, seldom visited because it is off the road and
+buried in forests, is Lost Lake. Perhaps the grandest view of Mt. Hood is
+from this lake. The bold pinnacle, rising out of the broad fields of snow,
+they in turn most wondrously encircled in forests of rich hue, is mirrored
+in the clear water with a perfectness that scarcely can be matched among
+the many lakes of its kind in all the land. In these days of swift
+transit, Hood River keeps up with the procession, for there is a regular
+automobile line from the town to Cloud-Cap Inn at the snow-line of the
+great peak, twenty-four miles distant. The distance, though it represents
+a rise of seven thousand feet, is traversed all too quickly to fully enjoy
+the valley, filled with its orchards, and rising in regular gradation from
+the heat of the lower end to the bracing cold of the upper air. In
+Cloud-Cap Inn the traveller may find the daintiest, most unique specimen
+of a mountain resort in our mountains. The Inn is owned by a wealthy
+Portland man, and is maintained rather as an attraction to visitors than
+with the expectation of making money.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img70.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Spokane Falls and City, 1886.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img71.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Spokane Falls and City, 1908.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>From the Inn one can climb in a few minutes to Photographer&#8217;s Point, from
+which he can look right down on the Elliot Glacier, not a large, but an
+exceedingly fine specimen of that most interesting of all features of a
+great peak.</p>
+
+<p>Hood, though so steep, can be ascended from several points. It was for a
+long time supposed to be unscalable from the north side. But William
+Langille, one of the most daring and successful mountain climbers of
+Oregon, soon found his way up the sharp ascent, and, once marked out, that
+route has been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[Pg 356]</a></span> followed by the great majority of climbers. Though very
+steep, there has never been an accident on this route except in one case,
+when a stranger undertook the climb alone and never returned. He probably
+lost his footing and fell into a crevasse. With the usual precautions of
+ropes and ice hatchets and caulks, a party can make their way over the
+steep slope, and its very steepness makes the ascent quicker and less
+exhaustive than to overcome the longer and more gradual ascents of Adams
+or &#8220;Takhoma.&#8221; While it takes but about four or five hours for an average
+party to go from snow-line to summit of Hood, either of the other
+mountains named demands from seven to ten hours.</p>
+
+<p>And having reached the summit, what a view! If the day be entirely
+clear&mdash;a rare occurrence&mdash;you will behold a domain for an empire. On the
+south, the long line of the Cascades, with the occasional great heights,
+Jefferson, Three Sisters, Thielson, Diamond, Scott, and, if it be very
+clear, even Pitt. To the north, the giant bulk of Adams, the airy symmetry
+of St. Helens, and the lordly majesty of Rainier, rule sky and earth,
+while in mazy undulations the great range, alternately purple and white,
+stretches on and on until it blends into the clouds.</p>
+
+<p>Seemingly almost at the feet of the observer, a dark green sinuosity amid
+the timbered hills, now strangely flattened, as we stand so high above
+them, marks the course of the River on its march oceanward. If the day be
+very clear, a whitish blur far westward shows where the &#8220;Rose City&#8221; on the
+Willamette reigns over her fair domains, while a dim stretch of varied
+hues denotes the Willamette Valley.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[Pg 357]</a></span> Some climbers have even asserted that
+late in the afternoon of extremely clear days the glint of the western sun
+can be seen upon the Pacific, a hundred and fifty miles distant. Toward
+the east lie the vast plains of the Inland Empire, marked at their farther
+limit by the soft curves and lazy swells of the range of the Blue
+Mountains.</p>
+
+<p>While it is an ungracious and even a fruitless undertaking to compare such
+objects as the great mountains or the views from the respective summits,
+it may be said that Hood has one conspicuous feature of the view, and that
+is that it is nearest the centre of the great mountain peaks, as well as
+systems, and also best commands the outlook over the great valley systems
+and river systems of this part of the Columbia Basin. And therefore,
+though the view is not equal in breadth to that from the summit of Adams
+or Rainier, it is unsurpassed for variety and interest. It may be said to
+cover more history than the view from any other peak. Across the southern
+flank lies the old Barlow Road, over which came the greater part of the
+immigration in the days of the ox-team conquest of Oregon in the forties
+and fifties. Thirty miles east is The Dalles with its old fur-trader&#8217;s
+station, its old United States fort, its mission station, its Indian wars,
+its early settlement, the most historic place in Eastern Oregon. From the
+old town, during all the years from the opening of the century, there
+descended the River the trappers, missionaries, immigrants, miners,
+soldiers, hunters, home-seekers, of a later day, adventurers and promoters
+of every species, to say nothing of the generations of Indians who lived
+and died along the banks.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[Pg 358]</a></span>To the west of our icy eyrie, Portland and Vancouver, with the rich
+valleys around them, represent the earliest explorations and developments
+of the fur-traders, as well as the earliest days of the era of permanent
+settlement. There in the westward haze is the little town of Champoeg
+where the Provisional Government of Oregon was established. In fact, in
+whatsoever direction we may look, we see illustrations of the heroic age
+of Old Oregon, the drama of native races, rival powers of Europe and
+America, the march of empire, a section of humanity and the world in the
+making.</p>
+
+<p>When our visit to Hood is ended we must cross the River and traverse
+another paradise, the White Salmon Valley, leading to Mt. Adams, the old
+Indian Klickitat. Adams is in such a position that its true elevation and
+magnitude cannot be understood from Portland or The Dalles or most of the
+routes of travel. Therefore until comparatively recent times it was
+generally supposed that Adams was an insignificant mountain in comparison
+with Hood, which looms up with such imposing grandeur from every point
+along the chief highways of commerce. It was discovered by the Mazama Club
+in 1896 that Adams carried his regal crown at a height of twelve thousand
+four hundred and seventy feet above the level of the sea, while the
+previously established height of Hood was only eleven thousand two hundred
+and twenty-five. Since then Adams has been held in much greater respect by
+mountain lovers, and many journeys have been made to and on it.</p>
+
+<p>Around Mt. Adams is a region of caves. As one rides through the open
+glades he may often hear the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</a></span> ground rumble beneath his horse&#8217;s hoofs.
+Mouths of Avernus yawn on every side. Some caverns have sunken in, leaving
+serpentine ravines. One cave has been traced three miles without finding
+the end. Some of these caves are partially filled with ice. There is one
+in particular, fifteen miles south-west of the mountain, which is known as
+Ice Cave. This is very small, not over four hundred feet long, but it is a
+marvel of unique beauty. Its external appearance is that of a huge well,
+at whose edge are bunches of nodding flowers, and from whose dark depths
+issue sudden chilly gusts. Descending by means of a knotty young tree
+which previous visitors have let down, we find ourselves on a floor of
+ice. The glare of pitch-pine torches reveals a weird and beautiful scene.
+A perfect forest of icicles of both the stalactite and stalagmite forms
+fills the cave. They are from ten to fifteen feet in length and from one
+to three in diameter. From some points of view they look like silvered
+organ-pipes.</p>
+
+<p>These caves have been formed in some cases by chambers of steam or bubbles
+in the yet pasty rock which hardened enough to maintain their form upon
+the condensation of the vapour. Others were doubtless produced by a tongue
+of lava as it collected slag and hardened rock upon its moving edge,
+rising up and curling over like a breaker on the sand. Only the &#8220;cave of
+flint&#8221; instead of turning into a &#8220;retreating cloud&#8221; had enough solid
+matter to sustain the arch and so became permanent. Others were no doubt
+formed by pyroducts. A tongue of flowing lava hardens on the surface. The
+interior remains fluid. It may continue running until the tongue is all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[Pg 360]</a></span>
+emptied, leaving a cavern. Such a cavern, whose upper end reaches the cold
+air of the mountains, might be like a chimney, down which freezing air
+would descend, turning into ice the water that trickled into the cave,
+even at the lower end.</p>
+
+<p>For sport, the region about Mt. Adams is unsurpassed. The elk, three kinds
+of deer, the magnificent mule deer, the black-tail, and the graceful
+little white-tail, two species of bear, the cinnamon and black, the daring
+and ubiquitous mountain goat, quail, grouse, pheasants, ducks, and cranes,
+are among the attractions to the hunter. Of late years great bands of
+sheep have driven the game somewhat from the south and east sides. In the
+grassy glades that encircle the snowy pile of Adams no vexatious
+undergrowth impedes the gallop of our fleet cayuse pony or obscures our
+vision. On the background of fragrant greenery the &#8220;dun deer&#8217;s hide&#8221; is
+thrown with statuesque distinctness, and among the low trees the whirring
+grouse is easily discerned. Nor is the disciple of Nimrod alone
+considered. After our hunt we may move to Trout Lake, and here the very
+ghost of the lamented Walton might come as to a paradise. Trout Lake is a
+shallow pool half a mile in length, encircled with pleasant groves and
+grassy glades, marred now, however, by the encroachment of ranches. Into
+it there come at intervals from the ice-cold mountain inlet perfect shoals
+of the most gamey and delicious trout. On rafts, or the two or three rude
+skiffs that have been placed there, one may find all piscatorial joys and
+may abundantly supply his larder free of cost. A few ranches here and
+there furnish accommodations for those who are too delicate to rest on the
+bosom of Mother Earth.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[Pg 361]</a></span> But no extended trip can be taken without
+committing oneself to the wilderness delights of sleeping with star-dials
+for roof and flickering camp-fire for hearth. And what healthy human being
+would exchange those for the feverish, pampered life of the modern house?
+Let us have the barbarism, and with it the bounding pulses and exuberant
+life of the wilderness.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img72.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">In the Heart of the Cascade Mountains, above Lake Chelan, Wash.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>But now, with stomachs and knapsacks filled, and with that pervasive sense
+of contentment which characterises the successful hunter and angler, we
+must get up our cayuse ponies from their pastures on the rich grass of the
+open woods, saddle up, and then off for the mountain, whose giant form now
+overtops the very clouds. About two miles from Trout Lake the trail
+crosses the White Salmon, and we find ourselves at the foot of the
+mountain. For eight miles we follow a trail through open woods, park-like,
+with huge pines at irregular intervals, and vivid grass and flowers
+between, a fair scene, the native home of every kind of game.</p>
+
+<p>As we journey on delightedly through these glades, rising, terrace after
+terrace, we can read the history of the mountain in the rock beneath our
+feet and the expanding plains and hills below. All within the ancient
+amphitheatre is volcanic. There are four main summits, a central dome,
+vast, symmetrical, majestic, pure-white against the blue-black sky of its
+unsullied height. The three other peaks are broken crags of basalt,
+leaning as for support against the mighty mass at the centre. Around the
+snow-line of the mountain many minor cones have been blown up. These have
+the most gaudy and brilliant colouring, mainly yellow and vermilion. One
+on the south-east is <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[Pg 362]</a></span>especially noticeable. From a deep ca&ntilde;on it rises
+two thousand feet as steep as broken scori&aelig; can lie. The main part is
+bright red, surmounted by a circular cliff of black rock. Probably the old
+funnel of the crater became filled with black rock, which, cooling, formed
+a solid core. The older material around it having crumbled away, it
+remains a solid shaft.</p>
+
+<p>But fire has not wrought all the wonders of the mighty peak. Ice has been
+most active. The mountain was once completely girdled with glaciers. Rocks
+are scratched and grooved five miles below the present snow-line. The
+ridges are strewn with planed rocks and glacial shavings and coarse sand.
+Some of the monticules on the flanks of the mountain have been partially
+cut away. Many have been entirely obliterated. But the ice has now greatly
+receded. Instead of a complete enswathement of ice there are some six or
+seven distinct glaciers, separated by sharp ridges, while the region
+formerly the chief home of the ice is now a series of Alpine meadows. Like
+most of the snow peaks, Mt. Adams is rudely terraced, and the terraces are
+separated into compartments by ridges, forming scores and hundreds of
+glades and meads. In some of these are circular ponds, from a few square
+rods to several acres in area. These lakes are found by the hundred around
+the mountain and in the region north of it. They are one of the charms and
+wonders of the country. About most of them tall grass crowds to the very
+edge of the water. Scattered trees diversify the scene. Throughout these
+glades flow innumerable streams, descending from level to level in
+picturesque cascades, and composed of water so cold and sparkling that the
+very memory of it cools the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[Pg 363]</a></span> after thirst. Sometimes the tough turf grows
+clear over, making a verdant tunnel through which &#8220;the tinkling waters
+slip.&#8221; Here and there streams spout full-grown from frowning precipices.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img73.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Birch-Tree Channel; Upper Columbia, Near Golden, B. C.<br />Photo. by C. F. Yates, Golden.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>But we are not content to stand below and gaze &#8220;upward to that height.&#8221; We
+must needs ascend. In climbing a snow peak a great deal depends on making
+camp at a good height and getting a very early start. By a little
+searching one may find good camping places at an elevation of seven
+thousand or even eight thousand feet altitude. This leaves only four
+thousand or five thousand feet to climb on the great day, and by starting
+at about four o&#8217;clock a party may have sixteen hours of daylight. This is
+enough, if there be no accidents, to enable any sound man of average
+muscle,&mdash;or woman either, if she be properly dressed for it,&mdash;to gain the
+mighty dome of Adams.</p>
+
+<p>At the time of our last ascent we camped high on a great ridge on the
+south side of the mountain, having for shelter a thick copse of dwarf
+firs. So fiercely had the winds of centuries swept this exposed point that
+the trees did not stand erect, but lay horizontal from west to east.</p>
+
+<p>With pulses bounding from the exhilarating air, and our whole systems
+glowing with the exercise and the wild game of the preceding week, we
+stretch ourselves out for sleep, while the stars blaze from infinite
+heights, and our uneasy camp-fire strives fitfully with the icy air which
+at nightfall always slides down the mountain side.</p>
+
+<p>Sweet sleep till midnight, and then we found ourselves awake all at once
+with a unanimity which at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[Pg 364]</a></span> first we scarcely understood, but which a
+moment&#8217;s observation made clear enough. A regular mountain gale had
+suddenly broken upon us. It had waked us up by nearly blowing us out of
+bed. Our camp-fire was aroused to newness of life by the gale, and the
+huge fire-brands flew down the mountain side, igniting pitchy thickets,
+until a fitful glare illuminated the lonely and savage grandeur of the
+scene. The whole sky seemed in motion. Then a cloud struck us. Night,
+glittering as she was a moment before with her tiaras of stars, was
+suddenly transformed into a dull, whitish blur. The vapour formed at once
+into thick drops on the trees and was precipitated in turn on us.
+Occasional sleet and snowflakes struck us with almost the sting of flying
+sand when we ventured to peep out. Covering ourselves up, heads and all,
+we crowded against each other and grimly went to sleep.</p>
+
+<p>We woke again, chattering with cold, to find it perfectly calm. The
+morning star was blazing over the spot where day was about to break. The
+sky was absolutely clear, not a mote on its whole concavity. The wind had
+swept and burnished it. The mountain towered above us cold and sharp as a
+crystal. There was a still, solemn majesty about it in the keen air and
+early light which struck us with a thrill of fear. The light just before
+daybreak is far more exact than the scarlet splendour of morning or the
+blinding blaze of noon. The world below us was a level sea of clouds. We
+seemed to be on an island of snow and rock, or on a small planetoid
+winging its own way in space. Yet beyond the puncturing top of a few of
+the Simcoe peaks a wavering line that just touched the glowing eastern
+sky, told of clear<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[Pg 365]</a></span> weather a hundred leagues up the basin of the
+Columbia. Out of the ocean of cloud, the great peaks of Hood and St.
+Helens rose, cold and white, like icebergs on an Arctic sea.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img74.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">A Typical Mountain Meadow, Stehekin Valley, Wash.<br />Photo. by T. W. Tolman, Spokane.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Coffee, ham, and hardtack, and then out on the ice and snow, just as the
+first warm flush of morning is gilding the mighty mass above us. The snow,
+hardened by the freezing morning, affords excellent footing, and in the
+sharp, bracing air we feel capable of any effort. We gain the summit of a
+bright red knob, one of the secondary volcanoes that girdle the mountain.
+At its peak are purple stones piled up like an altar, as indeed it is,
+though the incense from it is not of human kindling. The sun is not fairly
+up, but from below the horizon it splits the hemisphere of the sky into a
+hundred segments by its auroral flashes. And now we begin to climb a
+volcanic ridge, rising like a huge stairway, with blocks of stone as large
+as a piano. This is a tongue of lava, very recent, insomuch that it shows
+no glacial markings, and yet enough soil has accumulated upon it to
+support vegetation. It can be seen, a dull red river, three hundred yards
+wide, extending far down the mountain side. How well the old Greek poet
+described the process that must have taken place here: &#8220;&AElig;tna, pillar of
+heaven, nurse of snow, with fountains of fire; a river of fire, bearing
+down rocks with a crashing sound to the deep sea.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>The ridge becomes very steep, at an angle of probably thirty-five or forty
+degrees, and we climb on all fours from one rock to another. At last we
+draw ourselves up a huge wedge of phonolite and find ourselves at the
+summit of the first peak. Six hundred<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[Pg 366]</a></span> yards beyond, muffled in white
+silence, rises the great dome. It is probably five hundred feet higher
+than the first peak. To reach it we climb a bare, steep ridge of shaly,
+frost-shattered rock, in which we sink ankle deep, a difficult and even
+painful task with the laboured breathing of twelve thousand feet altitude.</p>
+
+<p>But patience conquers, and at about noon, seven hours and a half from the
+time of starting, we stand on the very tip of the mountain. Ten minutes
+panting in the cold wind and then we are ready to look around. Within the
+circle of our vision is an area for an empire. Northward is a wilderness
+of mountains. High above all, Mt. Rainier lifts his white crown unbroken
+to the only majesty above him, the sky. The western horizon, more hazy
+than the eastern, is punctuated by the smooth dome and steely glitter of
+Mt. St. Helens. Far southward, across a wilderness of broken heights,
+rises the sharp pinnacle of Mt. Hood, and far beyond that, its younger
+brother, Jefferson. Still beyond, are the Alpine peaks of the Three
+Sisters, nearly two hundred miles distant. Our vision sweeps a circle
+whose diameter is probably five hundred miles. Far westward the white haze
+betokens the presence of the sea. A deep blue line north-eastward, far
+beyond the smooth dome of St. Helens, stands for Puget Sound. Numerous
+lakes gleam in woody solitudes.</p>
+
+<p>Having looked around, let us now look down. On the eastern side the
+mountain breaks off in a monstrous chasm of probably four thousand feet,
+most of it perpendicular. We crawl as we draw near it. Lying down in turn,
+secured by ropes held behind, fearful as much of the mystic attraction of
+the abyss as of the slippery snow, we peep over the awful verge.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">[Pg 367]</a></span> Take
+your turn, gentle reader, if you would know what it seems to gaze down
+almost a mile of nearly perpendicular distance. Points of rock jut out
+from the pile and eye us darkly. That icy floor nearly a mile below us is
+the Klickitat glacier. From beneath it a milk-white stream issues and
+crawls off amid the rocky desolation. At the very edge of the great
+precipice stands a cone of ice a hundred feet high. Green, blue, yellow,
+red, and golden, the colours play with the circling sunbeams on its
+slippery surface, until one is ready to believe that here is where
+rainbows are made. We roll some rocks from a wind-swept point, and then
+shudder to see them go. They are lost to the eye as their noise to the
+ear, long before they cease to roll. Silence reigns. There is no echo. The
+thin air makes the voice sound weak. Our loudest shouts are brief bubbles
+of noise in the infinite space. A pistol shot is only a puff of powder.
+Even the rocks we set off are swallowed up and we get no response but the
+first reluctant clank as they grind the lip of the precipice. Nor do we
+care much for boisterous sounds. We are impelled rather to silence and
+worship.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img75.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">High School, Walla Walla, Wash.<br />Photo. by W. D. Chapman, Walla Walla.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>But now once more to earth and camp! For pure exhilaration, commend me to
+descending a snow peak. For a good part of Mt. Adams one may descend in
+huge jumps through the loose scori&aelig; and volcanic ashes. Some of the way
+one may slide on the crusty snow, a perfect whiz of descent. How the thin
+wind cuts past us, and how our frames glow with the dizzy speed! Such a
+manner of descent is not altogether safe. As we are going in one place
+with flying jumps on the softening snow, a chasm suddenly appears before
+us. It looks ten feet wide, and how deep, no one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[Pg 368]</a></span> could guess. To stop is
+out of the question. We make a wild bound and clear it, catching a
+momentary glance into the bluish-green crack as we fly across. We make the
+descent in an incredibly short time, only a little more than an hour,
+whereas it took us over seven hours to ascend. And then the rest and
+mighty feasts of camp, and the abundant and mountainous yarns, and the
+roaring camp-fire, whose shadows flicker on the solemn snow-fields, until
+the stars claim the heavens, and, while the wailing cry of the cougars
+rises from a jungle far below us, we sleep and perform again in dreams the
+day&#8217;s exploits.</p>
+
+<p>Of all scenes in connection with Mt. Adams, the most remarkable in all the
+experience of those who witnessed it, and one of those rare combinations
+which the sublimest aspects of nature afford, was at the time of the
+outing of the Mazama Club in 1902. The party had reached the summit in a
+dense fog, cold, bitter, forbidding, and nothing whatever to be seen. All
+was a dull, whitish blur. In the bitter chill the enthusiasm of some of
+the climbers evaporated and they turned away down the snowy waste. Others
+remained in the hope of a vanishing of the cloud-cap. And suddenly their
+hopes were realised. A marvellous transformation scene was unveiled like
+the lifting of a vast curtain. The cloud-cap was split asunder. The great
+red and black pinnacles of the summit sprung forth from the mist like the
+first lines in a developing photographic plate. Then the glistening tiaras
+and thrones of ice and snow caught the gleams of the unveiled sun, and lo,
+there we stood in mid-heaven, seemingly upon an island in space, with no
+earth about us, just the sun and the sky above and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[Pg 369]</a></span> a great swaying ocean
+of fog below. But now suddenly that ocean of fog was rent and split. The
+ardent sun burned and banished it away. Mountain peak after peak caught
+the glory. Range after range seemed to rise and stand in battle array. The
+transformation was complete. A moment before we were swathed in the
+densest cloud-cap, blinded with the fog. Now we were standing on a mount
+of transfiguration, with a new world below us. Every vestige of smoke or
+fog was gone. We could see the shimmer of the ocean to the west, the
+glistening bands of Puget Sound and the Columbia. Far eastward the plains
+of the Inland Empire lay palpitating in the July sun. The whole long line
+of the great snow-peaks of the Cascades were there revealed, the farthest
+a mere speck, yet distinctly discernible, two hundred miles distant. One
+unaccustomed to the mountains would not believe it possible that such an
+area could be caught within the vision from a single point.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img76.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Lake Chelan.<br />Photo. by F. N. Kneeland.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>It may be understood that the description of one of our great snow-peaks
+is, in general terms, a description of all. With every one there are the
+same azure skies, the same snow-caps, the same crevassed and glistening
+rivers of ice, the same long ridges with their intervening grassy and
+flowery meads, purling streams, and reflecting lakes. With the name of
+each there rises before Mazama or Mountaineer the remembrance of the camp
+of clouds or stars upon the edge of snow-bank, the sound of the bugle at
+two o&#8217;clock in the morning of the great climb, the hastily swallowed
+breakfast of coffee and ham, while climbers stand shivering around the
+flickering morning fire, the approaching day with its banners of crimson
+behind the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[Pg 370]</a></span> heights, the daubing of faces with grease-paint and the
+putting on of goggles, amid shouts of laughter from each at the grotesque
+and picturesque ugliness of all the others, then the hastily grasped
+alpenstocks, the forming in line, and at about four o&#8217;clock, while the
+first rays of the sun are gilding the summit, the word of command and the
+beginning of the march.</p>
+
+<p>Each great peak has its zones, so significant that each seems a world in
+itself. There is first the zone of summer with its fir and cedar forests
+at the base of the peak, from a thousand feet to twenty-five hundred above
+sea-level. In the case of most of our great peaks this zone consists of
+long gentle slopes and dense forests, with much undergrowth, though on the
+eastern sides there are frequently wide-open spaces of grassy prairie.
+Then comes the zone of pine forest and summer strawberry, with its
+fragrant air and long glades of grass and open aisles of columned trees,
+&#8220;God&#8217;s first temples,&#8221; pellucid streams babbling over pebbles and white
+sands, and occasionally falling in cascades over ledges of volcanic rock.
+This zone rises in terraces which attest the ancient lava flow, at an
+increasing grade over the first, though at most points one might still
+drive a carriage through the open pine forests. Then comes the third zone,
+a zone of parks. The large pine trees now give way to the belts of
+subalpine fir and mountain pine and larch, exquisite for beauty, enclosing
+the parks and grouped here and there in clumps like those in some old
+baronial estate of feudal times. This is the zone of rhododendron,
+shushula, phlox, and painted brush. Through the open glades the ptarmigan
+and deer wander, formerly unafraid of man, but now, alas, under the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[Pg 371]</a></span> ban
+of civilisation. The upward slope has now increased to twenty or
+twenty-five degrees, and to a party of climbers a frequent rest and the
+quaffing of the ice-cold stream that dashes through the woods afford a
+happy feature of the ascent. At the upper edge of this zone, at an
+elevation of probably seven thousand feet, beside some dashing stream or
+some clear pool, fed from the snows above, is the place for the camp. And
+such a camp! Oh, the beauty of such an unspoiled spot!</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img77.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">On the Banks of the Columbia River, near Hood River.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>It is from such a camp at the upper edge of the paradise zone that a party
+sets forth at the four o&#8217;clock hour to attain the highest. So the march on
+the great day of a final climb carries us at once into a fourth zone. This
+is the zone of avalanche and glacier, the zone of elemental fury and
+warfare, a zone of ever-steepening ascent, thirty degrees, a zone of
+almost winter cold at night, but with such a dazzling brightness and
+fervour in the day as turns the snow-banks to slush and sends the
+fountains tearing and cutting across the glaciers and triturating the
+moraines. Vegetation has now almost ceased, though the heather still
+drapes the ledges on the eastern or southern exposures, and occasionally
+one of the tenacious mountain pines upholds the banner of spring in some
+sheltered nook. This wind-swept and storm-lashed zone is also the zone of
+the wild goats and mountain sheep. On the precipitous ridges and along the
+narrow ledges at the margin of glaciers they can be seen bounding away at
+the approach of the party, sure-footed and swift at points where the nerve
+of the best human climber might fail. This zone carries the climbers to
+ten or eleven thousand feet of elevation<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">[Pg 372]</a></span> on the highest peaks. And here
+is the place for the Mountaineers and Mazamas to take the half-hour rest
+on their arduous march. A sweet rest it is. We pick out some sheltered
+place on the eastern slope, and stretch ourselves at full length on the
+warm rocks, while the icy wind from the summit goes hurtling above us. And
+how good the chocolate and the malted milk and the prunes and raisins of
+the scanty lunch taste, while we rest and feel the might of elemental
+nature again fill our veins and lungs and hearts.</p>
+
+<p>But then comes a fifth zone, the last, the zone of the Arctic. This is the
+zone of the snow-cap. The glaciers are now below. All life has ceased. The
+grade has ever steepened, till now it is forty degrees or more. The snow
+is hummocked and granulated. Here is where part of the climbers begin to
+stop. Legs and lungs fail. Camp looks exceedingly good down there at the
+verge of the forests. They feel as though they had lost nothing on the
+summit worth going up for. A nausea, mountain sickness, attacks some.
+Nosebleed attacks others. Things look serious. Icy mists sometimes begin
+to swirl around the presumptous climbers. Frost gathers on hair and
+mustache and eyebrows. The unaccustomed or the less ambitious or weaker
+lose heart and bid the rest go on, for they will turn toward a more
+summer-like clime. Generally about half an ordinary party drop out at this
+beginning of the Arctic zone. But the rest shout &#8220;Excelsior,&#8221; take a
+firmer grasp of alpenstock, stamp feet more vehemently into the snow, and
+with dogged perseverance move step by step up the final height. Inch by
+inch, usually in the teeth of a biting gale, leaning forward, and panting
+heavily, they force<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[Pg 373]</a></span> the upward way. And victory at last! There comes a
+time when we are on the topmost pinnacle, and there is nothing above us
+but the storms and sun. And then what elation! Nothing seems quite to
+equal the pure delight of such a triumph of lungs and legs and heart and
+will.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img78.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Rooster Rock, Columbia River&mdash;Looking Up.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">[Pg 374]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_2.VI" id="CHAPTER_2.VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h3>
+<p class="chapter">The Lower River and the Ocean Tides</p>
+
+<div class="note"><p class="hang">Remarkable Change in Climate and Topography&mdash;Farms and Villages&mdash;First
+View of Mt. Hood on West Side&mdash;Vancouver and its Historic
+Interest&mdash;The North Bank Railroad&mdash;View at the Mouth of the
+Willamette&mdash;Sauvie&#8217;s or Wapatoo Island&mdash;Beauty of the Willamette and
+its Tributaries&mdash;Simpson&#8217;s Poem&mdash;Approach to Portland&mdash;Site of
+Portland&mdash;Transportation Facilities&mdash;Portland&#8217;s Commerce&mdash;Homes and
+Public Buildings&mdash;Art in Portland&mdash;The Historical Society Museum&mdash;The
+<i>Oregonian</i> and its Editor&mdash;Once more on the River&mdash;The Fishing and
+Lumbering Villages&mdash;Scenery of the Lower River&mdash;Astoria and the
+Outlook to the Ocean&mdash;Industries of Astoria&mdash;The Fisheries&mdash;The Fleet
+of Fishing Boats on the Bar&mdash;The Ocean Beaches and the Tourist
+Travel&mdash;Through the Outer Headlands to the Pacific.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="dropcap"><span class="caps">Having</span> returned from our side trip to the mountain peaks of Hood and Adams
+and having resumed our station on the bank of the River just below Rooster
+Rock, we see that we are now in a new world. We are at sea-level. Dense
+forests clothe the shores, except for the places where the axe of the
+settler or the saws of the lumberman have made inroads. Moss drapes the
+rocks. Ferns and vines take possession wherever the trees have been
+removed. Even in summer a feeling of humidity usually pervades the air. A
+certain softness and roundness seems to characterise both the vegetable
+and animal world. The smell of the sea is in the atmosphere, even though
+the sea is yet distant. No longer<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">[Pg 375]</a></span> do our eyes wander over boundless
+expanses of rolling prairie, crowned to the highest knolls with
+wheat-fields, as on the other side of the mountains. The mountains fall
+away, and low bottoms, sometimes oozy with the inflowing river or the
+creeks from the forests, stretch away in the lazy, hazy distance. The
+River no longer flows tumultuously and with that militant energy which is
+so characteristic of the long stretches from Kettle Falls to The Dalles.
+It has a calm and stately majesty, the repose of accomplished warfare and
+victory. It has hewn its way down to the level of the ocean and no longer
+needs to fret and storm. It has conquered a peace.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img79.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Band of Elk on W. P. Reser&#8217;s Ranch, Walla Walla, Wash.<br />Photo. by W. D. Chapman.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Below Rooster Rock, the shores are flats with low hills in the background,
+and the River expands to a width of from one to two miles. If we still
+imagine ourselves in a small boat, we find the most delightful of
+sensations in gliding past the grassy islands and shores thick with fir or
+cottonwood. Or if we choose to take our way to one of the elegant
+steamers, <i>Spencer</i> or <i>Bailey Gatzert</i>, we shall still partake of the
+same life and feel the same sense of repose and contentment which belong
+by natural right to this portion of the River.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after leaving Rooster Rock, we begin to pass frequent pleasant farms
+on either bank. On the Washington side we see two pretty villages,
+Washougal and La Camas. The first has the historical distinction of being
+at or nearly at the highest spot reached by the English explorer Broughton
+in 1792, and named by him Point Vancouver. La Camas is the location of the
+most extensive paper mills in the North-west.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">[Pg 376]</a></span>If, while we are in this section of the River and our eyes are bent
+eagerly forward to catch the ever-changing shore and river lines, we
+happen to glance backward, our gaze is fastened as with a magnet, and for
+a moment utterance fails. For what do we see? Glistening white, ethereal,
+Mt. Hood rises before us, a vision which, of the many mountain visions
+that we have seen, seems the most beautiful. Mt. Hood indeed is the
+background of many a noble scene upon the River, but there is none quite
+equal in amplitude, in variety, to this,&mdash;River, forest, shore, foreground
+of timbered hills, Cascade Gorge, distant white and purple chain of
+Cascade Mountains, and the volcanic cone overtopping and overawing all.
+This view of Mt. Hood from the vicinity of La Camas has perhaps been
+oftener the subject of painting than any other.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles below La Camas we reach the most historic and perhaps the most
+beautiful spot upon the Columbia, Vancouver. As the capital for twenty
+years of the Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company&#8217;s Fur Empire, associated with the name
+of Dr. John McLoughlin, the centre of almost every event of importance in
+the early history, connected with both American and British occupation,
+and later as the location of the United States military post and
+preserving the names of Grant, Sheridan, McClellan, Hooker, and others of
+our famous generals, Vancouver has indeed a rich historic setting. But
+aside from such associations with the past, every tourist must note the
+location of Vancouver as one of rare beauty. In fact, the spot is almost
+ideal for a great city. The splendid River, a mile and a half in width,
+offers limitless facilities for shipping, while, beginning at the water&#8217;s
+edge, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">[Pg 377]</a></span> gradually rising slope of land extends in a superb swell several
+miles to the north. Every feature of scenery that could delight the
+eye&mdash;Mt. Hood with the Cascades to the east, the Willamette Valley to the
+south, the Portland and Scappoose hills to the west, the River blending
+all&mdash;seems to have been lavished on Vancouver. It has been a surprise to
+many that the great city had not grown here rather than at Portland,
+which, though on an equally fine location, is on the tributary and much
+smaller Willamette. The chief reasons of this were the nearer proximity of
+Portland to the rich farming country of the Tualatin and the presence in
+the Columbia a mile below Vancouver of a sand-bar which embarrassed
+shipping. This is now removed.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img80.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Oregon City in 1845.<br />From an Old Print.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img81.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Fort Vancouver in 1845.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>At Vancouver the newly-built &#8220;North Bank&#8221; Railroad (Spokane, Portland, and
+Seattle) has constructed across the Columbia a bridge a mile and three
+quarters in length, said to be the largest and costliest of its kind in
+the world. This same railroad has also bridged the Willamette a few miles
+west of Vancouver, thus effecting an entrance to Portland. This railroad
+is one of the most interesting and remarkable undertakings of the age. It
+is said that its cost from Spokane to Portland exceeded forty million
+dollars. Vancouver expects much from this road, even anticipating that
+much of the shipping hitherto centring in Portland will be diverted to the
+larger river. However that may prove, it is plain that Vancouver has the
+promise as well as the memory of great things.</p>
+
+<p>Six miles west of Vancouver is one of those imposing scenes in which our
+River so abounds. This is the junction of the Willamette with the
+Columbia.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">[Pg 378]</a></span> This spot was noted by Broughton in 1792 as one of exceptional
+beauty, and to it he attached the name Belle Vue Point. It is indeed a
+combination of both historical and scenic interest. The Willamette steals
+shyly and coquettishly through green islands to fall into the strong arms
+of the stately Columbia. The western arm of the Willamette, commonly
+called the &#8220;Slough,&#8221; joins the Columbia eighteen miles below at the
+picturesque little town of St. Helens. Between the Columbia and the Slough
+lies Sauvie&#8217;s Island, named from a Hudson&#8217;s Bay man, and famous throughout
+Hudson&#8217;s Bay times as well as Indian times. The island was the seat of
+power of the Multnomah tribe. The scene of the book known as the <i>Bridge
+of the Gods</i> by Frederick Balch is mainly upon this island, and in that
+book will be found some glowing descriptions of this beauty spot. To the
+Indians it was known as Wapatoo Island. In the ponds grew the plant called
+the wapatoo, an onion-like root, very nutritious and palatable, and, with
+salmon, constituting the chief food of the natives. Not only so, but the
+Multnomah Indians used the wapatoo as a commercial stock, carrying on
+regular trade with both the coast and the up-river tribes.</p>
+
+<p>According to the early explorers there were great annual fairs on Wapatoo
+Island, when Indians from ocean beach, from valley, from mountains, and
+from River, both up and down, would gather to exchange products, to
+gamble, race horses and boats, and have a general period of hilarity and
+good fellowship.</p>
+
+<p>The gathering of the wapatoos developed upon the patient &#8220;klootchmen&#8221;
+(women) of the tribe. They would go out in canoes to the shallow water
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">[Pg 379]</a></span>where the roots grew and then, stripping naked, would hang over the side
+of the boat and dislodge the wapatoos with their toes from the soft mud.
+Soon the surface would be covered with the floating roots. The squaws
+would gather these into the canoes. Then they would move to another place
+for another load. Sometimes they would spend almost the whole day in the
+water. The wapatoo still grows in the ponds and lagoons of the island.
+These ponds formerly abounded in ducks and geese and cranes and swans.
+Even yet there is fine hunting. During the damp soft days of the Oregon
+winter, the Nimrods of Portland betake themselves thither in great
+numbers.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img82.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Lone Rock, Columbia River, about Fifty Miles East of Portland.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>From the steamer, as we enter the mouth of the Willamette, or from the
+greater elevation of the lighthouse, one may command one of the lordliest
+views that even this land of lordly views affords. Five snow-peaks, Hood,
+Rainier-Tacoma, St. Helens, Adams, and Jefferson, rise snow white from the
+purple forests of the Cascade Range. Up the Columbia the great gorge
+through which we have passed stands open to view, while down-river the
+sinuous and hazy lines of low-lying shore betoken the nearer proximity of
+the ocean. Up the Willamette, enchanting islands, with low watery shores,
+occupy the foreground, while a short distance back from the western bank,
+a chain of picturesque hills, heavily timbered, encloses the vista. On the
+east side a low bench with bluffy promontories, crowned with the beautiful
+smooth-barked madrona tree, rises from the green meadows.</p>
+
+<p>If we could, from so fair an entrance, ascend the Willamette to its source
+in the Cascade Mountains two hundred miles away, and if we could turn
+into<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">[Pg 380]</a></span> the Tualatin, the Yamhill, the Clackamas, the Molalla, the La
+Creole, the Santiam, the Calapooia, affluents worthy of union with the
+Willamette, and if we could tarry among the vales and meadows and
+oak-crowned hills and distant Coast and Cascade ranges of mountains, all
+across that superb valley, fifty miles wide by a hundred and fifty long,
+as beautiful as Greece or Italy,&mdash;we would then all agree that the
+Willamette deserves a volume by itself and that it is almost a crime to
+introduce it so briefly here. Every old Oregonian, in thinking of the
+Willamette, at once associates it with the apostrophe to it by S. L.
+Simpson, the gifted and unfortunate poet of Oregon, whose genius deserved
+a wider recognition than it ever received. The first stanza of his poem is
+this:</p>
+
+<p class="poem">From the Cascades&#8217; frozen gorges,<br />
+Leaping like a child at play,<br />
+Winding, widening through the valley,<br />
+Bright Willamette glides away.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Onward ever, lovely River,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Softly calling to the sea,</span><br />
+Time that scars us, maims and mars us,<br />
+Leaves no track or trench on thee.</p>
+
+<p>And now that we have fairly entered the Willamette, it becomes speedily
+evident that we are in the near vicinity of a large and prosperous city.
+Steamboats, an occasional steamship, sailing ships, sometimes huge
+four-masted steel ships towed by coughing tugs, long booms of logs in tow
+of some spluttering stern-wheeler, scows of every description, gasoline
+launches, rowboats,&mdash;a motley fleet, they seem to be making they way with
+all possible haste upon the stream.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img83.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Willamette Falls, Oregon City, Ore.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">[Pg 381]</a></span>We are indeed approaching Portland, the metropolis of the Columbia, the
+&#8220;Rose City,&#8221; in many respects the most interesting and attractive of
+Western cities. The approach to Portland is one hard to match for stately
+beauty. The city occupies both sides of the Willamette, the main business
+part on the west side, but the larger residence part on the east.</p>
+
+<p>The first settler on the original site of Portland was a man named
+Overton. Lownsdale, Chapman, and Lovejoy bought him out. Then Captain John
+H. Couch in 1845 located a donation land claim on what is now the northern
+part of the west side city. At that time the site was somewhat cut up with
+gulches and clothed in the densest of dense forests, with perfect jungles
+of every species of undergrowth. But duller eyes than those of the gallant
+mariners, Couch, Flanders, Ainsworth, Pettygrove, and Lovejoy, could have
+seen beneath the tangled thickets the making of a city, though it may well
+be questioned whether even they, in their wildest flights of fancy, ever
+pictured the scene of to-day, where the city of these sixty years&#8217;
+building now sits, a queen upon her circling throne of hills. The location
+of Portland is almost ideal. The hills to the west rise to a height of
+about eight hundred feet, but many fine homes are located there, and car
+lines cross the hills in many directions. Above the fogs and smoke these
+high-line homes have every possible charm. On the east side of the
+Willamette the land is a level bench with limitless room for expansion.
+There are a few picturesque elevations on the east side, as Mt. Tabor and
+Mt. Scott, and these have been used for homes with the taste which
+characterises the entire city.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">[Pg 382]</a></span>Portland is the centre of every species of transportation facility. It has
+one of the most extensive and well-equipped electric railway systems in
+the United States. In addition to the urban lines, there are interurban
+lines in every direction, to Vancouver, Troutdale, Oregon City, Milwaukee,
+Hillsboro, and Salem, the last named the capital of the State and fifty
+miles distant. We find also that four transcontinental railroads have a
+terminus in Portland, the Southern Pacific, the Northern Pacific, the
+Union Pacific, and the Great Northern. Steamship lines run to Alaska,
+Puget Sound, San Francisco and other California ports, to all the
+coastwise ports of Oregon, to the Hawaiian Islands and the Orient, and to
+Mexico and South America. Sailing ships convey the products of the
+North-west to all the ports of the world.</p>
+
+<p>As a result of these facilities for commerce we find such figures as the
+following: During the year 1907 there entered and cleared at Portland
+twelve hundred and twenty ocean-going vessels, registering more than
+1,700,000 tons, net, and with a carrying capacity of 3,500,000 tons. In
+the cargoes of this total, were 175,000,000 feet of lumber and 18,000,000
+bushels of wheat, flour included. Portland has in fact reached the front
+rank as a wheat and flour shipping port, being in the class with Galveston
+and New York, some of the time having led both of them. In December, 1907,
+Portland&#8217;s record of wheat shipments, exclusive of flour, was 3,000,000
+bushels. The Bureau of Statistics of the Department of Commerce and Labor
+gave the value of all breadstuffs shipped from Portland for the eleven
+months ending November 30, 1907,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">[Pg 383]</a></span> at $10,536,234. During the same period
+the shipments of the same commodities from San Francisco totalled
+$4,143,592, while from the three Puget Sound ports of Seattle, Tacoma, and
+Everett, the aggregate was $13,989,178. During November, 1908, there were
+shipped 903,000 bushels of wheat, 180,145 barrels of flour, 209,246
+bushels of barley, and 9,752,552 feet of lumber. During the year 1908 the
+value of wheat and flour reached a total of $18,340,405, while the lumber
+exports aggregated 162,089,998 feet.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img84.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Among the Big Spruce Trees, near Astoria, Oregon.<br />Photo. by Woodfield, Astoria.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps the most gratifying feature of the shipping trade to Portland
+people has been the increase in the size of ships entering the River. In
+1872 the average wheat cargo exported was 33,615 bushels, while now it is
+four times as much. The record cargo was that of the British bark
+<i>Andorinha</i>, in the fall of 1908, 189,282 bushels. The channel from
+Portland to the Columbia Bar and that across the Bar have so much improved
+that no lightering was necessary during the year 1908, and ships of
+twenty-five and twenty-six feet draft have gone from Portland to the ocean
+without difficulty. In connection with this fact we are told that in June,
+1907, the International Sailing-ship Owners&#8217; Union abolished the
+differential of thirty cents per ton which had stood for some years
+against Portland. These conditions, together with the completion of the
+North Bank Railroad, by which a greatly added traffic from the Inland
+Empire will be turned to Portland, seem to indicate that Portland is on
+the direct road to a greater commercial leadership than she has yet known.
+The lumber industry centring in Portland is as remarkable as that of
+grain. Oregon&#8217;s available forests,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">[Pg 384]</a></span> according to Government estimates,
+reach a total of three hundred billion feet, board measure. It is
+estimated that during the years 1906-8 the lumber cut in Oregon reached
+about two billion feet each year, of which about one fifth was sawed in
+Portland. It is asserted, in fact, that Portland is the largest lumber
+producing city in the world. Lumbermen believe that it is only a question
+of a few years when Portland will cut a billion feet of lumber a year.
+While grain and lumber are the great articles of export from Portland,
+there are vast totals of fruit, hay, live-stock, dairy and poultry
+products, fish, and manufactured articles of many kinds.</p>
+
+<p>But to the thoughtful traveller it is of more interest to see the use made
+of wealth than the wealth itself. Portland now contains about two hundred
+thousand people, said to have more per capita wealth than any other city,
+with two exceptions, in the United States. What are these people doing
+with their accumulations? For answer the traveller visits the schools, the
+public buildings, the churches, the stores, the places of amusement, the
+homes, and he finds every evidence of taste, good judgment, refinement,
+and artistic skill. The Portland Hotel, the <i>Oregonian</i> building, the
+Marquam Grand Theatre, the Marquam building, the Chamber of Commerce
+building, the Corbett block, the Wells-Fargo building, the First
+Congregational, Presbyterian, Catholic, and Baptist churches and Jewish
+Synagogue, the Union Depot, the City Hall, the City Library,&mdash;these and
+many other structures challenge the admiration of travellers from even the
+best-built cities of the East. During the year 1907, building permits were
+issued to an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">[Pg 385]</a></span> amount exceeding nine million dollars, of which nearly half
+was expended for dwelling houses. Portland is indeed a city of homes, and
+workingmen own their own houses to an unusual degree.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img85.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Portland in 1908. Mt. St. Helens, Sixty-five Miles Distant.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>As the visitor traverses Portland&#8217;s streets, he sees amply demonstrated
+the propriety of the cognomen, the &#8220;Rose City.&#8221; Almost every yard boasts
+its roses, and on almost every porch the scarlet rambler or some other
+climber casts its rich colouring. Soil and climate are said to produce an
+ideal combination for the finest grades of roses, as well as of many other
+species of flowers. The Portland Fair of 1905 was the means of beautifying
+a section of the city near Macley Park. While most of the structures were
+of a temporary nature, the unique and interesting Forestry building has
+been left, and this is a rare attraction to the Eastern visitor. The two
+tasteful and significant groups of statuary, <i>The Coming of the White Men</i>
+and <i>Sacajawea</i>, still grace the spot where they were dedicated. Portland
+contains many other attractive works of art at available points. Among
+these is the Skidmore Fountain, on one of the most crowded thoroughfares
+of the city, a real gem of art.</p>
+
+<p>No visitor to Portland should fail to visit the City Hall and the valuable
+and interesting historical collection of the Oregon Historical Society.
+Mr. George H. Himes, the Secretary of the Society, has devoted years to
+the gathering of this museum of pioneer relics. Some of them are
+priceless. Here is the first printing press in Oregon, used for some years
+by Rev. H. M. Spalding at the Nez Perc&eacute; Mission. Here is Mrs. Whitman&#8217;s
+writing desk. Here is Captain Robert Gray&#8217;s sea-chest. The ages of
+discovery, of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">[Pg 386]</a></span> the fur-traders, of the missionaries, of the pioneers, are
+all lived over again in the inspection of these relics.</p>
+
+<p>Probably most people who have followed the course of public thought and
+action in the West, if asked what agency and what man would first come
+into their minds at the mention of the name of Portland, would answer at
+once,&mdash;&#8220;The <i>Oregonian</i> and its editor, Harvey Scott.&#8221; This great journal
+and its great editor, associated together most of the time for over forty
+years, have indeed constituted one of the most potent forces in framing
+the thoughts and the institutions of the Columbia River people. It is
+frequently said that Harvey Scott and Henry Watterson are the only great
+American editors yet remaining of the old type, the type of a personal
+intellectual force and a public teacher. The present type of editor is
+rather an advertising manager than a political and social leader, a
+business man rather than a generator of ideas.</p>
+
+<p>There are many additional features of interest in and around Portland.
+Whether viewed artistically, commercially, financially, socially, or
+historically, this fair metropolis of the Columbia River Empire is in a
+class by herself. Only by personal acquaintance can the student of the
+West satisfy himself as to Portland.</p>
+
+<p>But once more we must address ourselves to the River. One may go to
+Astoria by rail down the southern bank, or he may, if he prefer, as we
+certainly do, go by water. He can go by almost every species of boat known
+to man, from an ocean steamship to one of the lateen-sailed fishing boats
+which abound on the lower River.</p>
+
+<p>When we have retraced our course to the mouth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">[Pg 387]</a></span> of the Willamette and have
+again committed ourselves to the oceanward flow of the Columbia, we find a
+continuance of the same low, oozy, and verdant banks, the same timbered
+hills on either side in the middle distance, and the same dominant
+snow-peaks and unbroken Cascade Range in the farthest background. We pass
+many little towns, whose leading occupations are manifestly lumbering and
+fishing. We try to live over again the sensations which we think must have
+been felt by Lewis and Clark or Broughton, as they, first of civilised
+men, lifted the veil from this solitude.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img86.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Portland Harbour, Oregon.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>In this section of the River there are no stupendous pinnacles as in the
+Gorge of the Cascades. Yet the scenery is infinitely varied, and although
+less bold, it is, in its way, equally attractive with the loftier scene.
+One unique spot attracts the eye, and almost recalls the beauty of Rooster
+Rock. This is Mt. Coffin, on the Washington side, near the mouth of the
+Cowlitz River. This was one of the &#8220;Memaloose&#8221; or sepulture places of the
+Indians. There in early times their dead, in great numbers, were deposited
+upon platforms after the usual Indian fashion.</p>
+
+<p>After passing the ingress of the Cowlitz, we find the River widening to
+yet grander proportions. Islands become numerous. Among these islands not
+a few desperate affrays and even tragedies have occurred among warring
+fishermen, union against non-union. Lurking among these islands, too, are
+numerous unlicensed vendors of spirits. In the uncertainty as to which of
+the States may have jurisdiction at places, these illicit traffickers move
+from island to island and cove to cove and one overhanging forest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">[Pg 388]</a></span> to
+another, evading officers of both States and of Federal Government alike.
+Sometime a novelist will be inspired with the poetry and humour and
+tragedy and pathos of this fisher life on the lower River, with its
+mingling of the life of law-breaker and desperado, and this section of our
+River will blossom into literature and find a place with the moonshiners
+of the South and the cowboys of the Rockies. All the material is ready.
+The River waits only for its Owen Wister or Hamlin Garland or Jack London
+to introduce it to the world of readers.</p>
+
+<p>But the River moves and we must move with it. Many signs indicate to us
+that we are approaching the ocean. If we are moving in a small boat, we
+may pause to camp under some one of the thick-topped spruce trees whose
+stiff spicules pierce our unwary hands like pins. If we should spend a
+night we would find the water heaving and falling two, four, or five feet,
+with the ocean tides. Broader and broader grows the River. Numerous salmon
+canneries and seining stations appear. Passing a fishing village on the
+north bank called Brookfield, we notice a very curious rock, Pillar Rock,
+in the River a quarter of a mile from shore. It rises forty feet directly
+out of the water. We are told by one versed in Indian lore that this is
+the transformed body of a chief who tried to imitate the god Speelyei by
+wading across the River. For his presumption he was turned into a rock.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after passing Pillar Rock we see the curious spectacle of a house on
+piles apparently right in the middle of the River. More curious still, we
+see horses seemingly engaged in drawing a load through the very water
+itself. The mystery is soon solved.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">[Pg 389]</a></span> The house is built on a sand-bar. It
+is a seining station. The horses are pulling a seine from its moorings at
+the point of the sand-bar to the point where its load may be discharged.
+Lumber, salmon, and water,&mdash;this is the world in which we now live and
+move and have our being.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img87.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Fish River Road, in Upper Columbia Region, B. C.<br />Photo. by Trueman, Victoria.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>We next enter a broad expanse of the River, nine miles wide, on the north
+side of which is a deep cove. There is the historic spot in which Robert
+Gray on May 3, 1792, paused at his highest point to fill his water casks
+and to float the Stars and Stripes over Oregon, claimed for the United
+States of America. As we look westward, the headlands seem to part in
+front of us, and between them sky and water join. The greatest ocean is
+before us, though still twenty miles away. The River has reached the end
+of his fourteen-hundred-mile journey. Soon we pass, on the Oregon side,
+the bold promontory of Tongue Point, and Astoria, the second largest city
+on the navigable waters of the Columbia, is before us.</p>
+
+<p>To the history of this oldest American town west of the Rocky Mountains we
+have already referred many times. Interesting in so many features of the
+past, Astoria is full of problems and suggestions, commercial and
+otherwise, for the present and the future. The city has grown slowly,
+always wondering why Portland should have so outstripped her. She
+certainly has such a location that it seems a crime not to utilise it for
+a great city. The River is here five miles wide. Upon its ample flood all
+the navies of the world might ride at anchor, sheltered from the sea by
+the long low sand-ridge of Point Adams. The site of the city, though
+somewhat rugged<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">[Pg 390]</a></span> and broken, is entirely capable of reduction to a
+convenient grade, and is singularly noble and commanding. From the plateau
+three hundred feet high upon which the splendid waterworks are located, is
+a view of imposing grandeur;&mdash;River in front, dense forest to rear, with
+the blue saddle and pinnacled horn of Saddle Mountain,&mdash;Swallalochost in
+Indian speech, with its thunder-bird of native myth,&mdash;and the ocean to the
+west. We find Astoria to be a well-built city of about fifteen thousand
+permanent inhabitants, with perhaps five or six thousand more during the
+height of the fishing season. Almost every resource of industry offers
+itself in this favoured region about the mouth of the River. Though the
+country is densely timbered in its native state, the soil is such that
+when cleared it is of the finest for dairy and vegetable purposes. The
+mildness of the climate keeps the clover and grass green and the flowers
+in bloom the long year through.</p>
+
+<p>As might be expected the chief industries as yet developed are lumbering
+and fishing. There are magnificent forests of fir, spruce, cedar, and
+hemlock, in all directions, while in and around Astoria there are six
+immense establishments for transforming the timber into merchantable
+lumber. This lumber aggregates something like a hundred and twenty million
+feet annually, and it goes to all the ports of the world. There is
+occasionally floated to the bar and thence to San Francisco, a log-boom
+chained in substantial fashion and containing several million feet of
+logs. Such a great boom is one of the most curious sights of the
+River-mouth. But transcending all else in importance at Astoria is the
+business of canning and drying<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">[Pg 391]</a></span> salmon. What silver is to the C&oelig;ur
+d&#8217;Alene, what wheat is to Walla Walla, what apples are to Hood River, that
+salmon are to Astoria. The people think, act, and reason in terms of
+salmon. And well they may. He who has not seen Chinook salmon from the
+Columbia River has not seen fish. Nay, he cannot even be said to have
+really lived in the larger sense of the term. Take a genuine Chinook
+salmon of fifty or sixty pounds, caught in June, fat, rich,
+glistening,&mdash;but words are a mockery. Nothing but the actual experience
+will convey the impression. The salmon output on the River has for some
+years run from two hundred and fifty thousand to five hundred thousand
+cases per year, twenty-four cans to the case. The amount dried and smoked
+represents something like an equal amount. This is for the River from
+Astoria to The Dalles. The great bulk of this, however, is put up at
+Astoria or in its immediate vicinity. It is estimated that from thirty
+million to forty million salmon are caught yearly on the Oregon side of
+the lower River. This represents a value of four or five million dollars,
+about half of this going to the fishermen and half to the cannerymen. Some
+ten thousand men are engaged in fishing about the mouth of the River.
+These men are largely Finns, Russians, Norsemen, Italians, Sicilians, and
+Greeks. They have various co-operative associations and are independent of
+the cannerymen, to whom they furnish the fish at some stipulated price,
+usually five cents a pound.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img88.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Multnomah Falls, 840 Feet High, on South Side of<br />Columbia River about Sixty Miles above Portland.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>There are many tragedies at the mouth of the River. The best fishing is
+just off the Bar and the best time to draw the nets is at the turn of the
+tide. In a fishing boat in the chill of the early morning,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">[Pg 392]</a></span> the fishermen
+will frequently become benumbed and drowsy, and will neglect the critical
+moment. When the tide fairly turns on the Bar it runs out like a mill
+race, and woe to the boat that waits too long. It goes out to sea,
+reappearing perhaps, bottom-up, in the course of the day, with owners and
+cargo gone. Some experienced men have asserted that not less than a
+hundred fishermen are lost every summer. Many boats are now fitted with
+gasoline power, and loss of life is lessened thereby.</p>
+
+<p>To the visitor at the River&#8217;s mouth the fairest sight of all in connection
+with the fishing industry is the incoming fleet of boats in the early
+morning, or the outgoing fleet of evening. On a June night it scarcely
+grows really dark at all, and as the faint glow of the north turns at two
+or three o&#8217;clock into the morning flush, the lateen sails can be seen like
+a flock of gulls on the rim of the ocean. When the full radiance of the
+dawn, with its bars of carmine and saffron, has &#8220;turned to yellow gold the
+salt-green streams,&#8221; the fleet is within the outer headlands. Hundreds,
+sometimes thousands of them, a regular cloud of them, converge from all
+parts of the offing to the wharves of lower Astoria.</p>
+
+<p>With all its benefits the fishing industry brings almost infinite trouble.
+The two States of Oregon and Washington never agree on laws governing the
+periods of lawful fishing. Sometimes Federal authorities bear a part in
+the imbroglio. Gill-net men, seiners, fish-trap men, union men, non-union
+men, local, State, and Federal officials, all combine in one great general
+mix-up. In the midst of the confusion the countless salmon pursue their
+course up the River and its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">[Pg 393]</a></span> tributaries in summer, back to the ocean
+again in autumn. The Federal Government maintains fish hatcheries on a
+number of streams, and from them young salmon to the number of millions
+are turned out each year to replenish the diminishing supply.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img89.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Chinook Salmon, Weight 80 Pounds.<br />Photo. by Woodfield, Astoria.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>A great and constantly growing tide of tourists from all parts of the
+Willamette Valley and the upper Columbia region go to Astoria during the
+summer. The fine steamers, <i>T. J. Potter</i>, <i>Hassalo</i>, <i>Charles D.
+Spencer</i>, and others of less size, convey these thousands of tourists to
+Astoria, while the railroad from Portland brings yet other thousands. From
+Astoria, the North Beach is reached by steamer to Ilwaco, and thence by
+rail to all points of the fishhook of land which extends from the northern
+headland of the River to the mouth of Willapa Harbour. During the season
+this beach is almost a continuous city from Cape Hancock to Leadbetter
+Point, twenty miles distant. Clatsop Beach on the south side of the River
+is reached by rail from Astoria. Every charm that an ocean resort can
+possess has been lavished on these two beaches on either side of the
+River. The bathing, boating, climbing, fishing, hunting, clamming,
+crabbing,&mdash;they are all there. To the population of that part of the River
+country east of the Cascades, the transition from the dust and heat of the
+summer to the cool and rest and freshness of the beach, with its breath
+from six thousand miles of unbroken sea, is almost like a change of scenes
+in a play. Both these beaches, especially Clatsop Beach, are the location
+of a rich store of Indian legend and romance. &#8220;Cheatcos&#8221; and &#8220;Skookums&#8221;
+haunt the forests, and the spirits of Tallapus and Nekahni and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">[Pg 394]</a></span> Quootshoi
+have been enthroned on every peak and cape.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+<p>All rivers must reach the sea, and all journeys must end. And so both our
+River and our journey find their end in the ocean. From Astoria we can see
+the outer headlands and the ocean space between. As we survey this merging
+of the Great River with the greater deep, our eyes turn in fancy to that
+clear, bright lake, fourteen hundred miles away in the snowy peaks of
+British Columbia, from which the River flows. And in imagination we view
+again the vistas of lagoons and islands, cliffs and glaciers, lakes and
+ca&ntilde;ons, plains and forests, through which the Columbia takes its course,
+while once more the changing scenes of the historical drama associated
+with that splendid waterway are enacted before our eyes.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img90.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Lake Adela, near Head of Columbia River, B. C.<br />Photo. by C. F. Yates.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>But now all these scenes and vistas must be left behind, and we must pass
+between the capes. The long sandspit of Point Adams lies on the south, and
+the bold rock-promontory of Cape Hancock on the north, seven miles apart,
+each crowned with a lighthouse. Between them we secure a view of the great
+jetty in course of construction by the Federal Government. This is one of
+the most important improvements in connection with the River. When this
+work, together with the canal and locks at Celilo, is completed, the River
+may be regarded as really navigable on a large scale. The work on the
+jetty was inaugurated soon after the jetty-building by Captain Eads at the
+mouth of the Mississippi River had drawn the favourable attention of
+people and Government to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">[Pg 395]</a></span> this method of deepening river mouths. The
+jetty consists of a double line of piling, filled with rock and mattresses
+of woven willows. This constitutes a solid core against which the current
+of the River on one side piles the silt, while on the other the ocean
+waves pound the sand into a permanent barrier-reef. The philosophy of it
+is so to narrow the entrance that the accelerated current of the River
+will scour out the channel to an increased depth. Piles have been set in
+place by an ingenious system of pneumatic pipes by which compressed air
+bores a hole in the sand. Into this hole the pile is dropped, and the
+sea-waves in a moment fill in and tamp the sand around it. Thus the ocean
+is made to fence itself out. Upon the jetty a railroad has been built, and
+a train, loaded with rock and willows, runs out on this every eleven
+minutes for dumping material into the space between the piles. Very
+gratifying results have already been secured. There is now a depth of
+twenty-six feet on the Bar at low water. The crest of the Bar has been cut
+much deeper at several narrow points, and this indicates the progress that
+may be expected. It is hoped that the completed jetty will maintain a
+permanent channel of forty feet at low water. In stormy weather the work
+on the jetty is difficult and dangerous. The impact of the Pacific waves
+when lashed by a sixty-mile &#8220;sou&#8217;-wester&#8221; is something terrific. Large
+sections of piling have been torn out, and much loss has resulted. But
+patience and money triumph over all obstacles, and the work goes steadily
+on. Some conception of the magnitude of the commerce to be accommodated by
+this great work may be formed from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_396" id="Page_396">[Pg 396]</a></span> the fact that in the year 1907 the
+freight handled on the lower River by both river and ocean vessels
+amounted to 4,251,681 tons, valued at $76,583,804. This is but a fraction
+of what will come with the full development of the Columbia Valley and
+with the needed improvements to navigation. The Federal Government
+maintains life-saving stations on both sides of the River. Many a tale of
+daring could these heroes of the beach tell, should we stop to question
+them.</p>
+
+<p>We are at the point of the jetty. The buoys rise and fall behind us. The
+horrible blare of the fog-horn sounds across the thunder of the surf, as
+we cross the imaginary line from headland to headland. Sea-captains tell
+us that ten miles from the River&#8217;s mouth&mdash;so powerfully does the mighty
+current cleave the sea&mdash;they can dip up fresh water. But now, to west and
+north and south, the deep blue, though crossed by the pale green of the
+River water, assures us that we are fairly upon the Bar. The River of the
+West is all behind us. If it be very clear, we can just discern upon the
+horizon&#8217;s verge, cameo-like and glistening white, Mt. Hood, monarch of the
+Oregon Cascades, for ever standing guard over the disappearing River.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img91.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Bridal Veil Bluff, Columbia River, Ore.<br />Photo. by E. H. Moorehouse, Portland.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>As the shore line grows vague, it would not be difficult for the
+imagination to conjure up the navigators of the Old World who sailed these
+seas, then unknown seas of mystery and romance. Looming up through the
+ocean mists we may see strange ships and stranger crews emerge,&mdash;junks
+with Oriental castaways swept hither by storms and ocean currents;
+caravels with the dauntless sailors of the sixteenth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_397" id="Page_397">[Pg 397]</a></span> century; buccaneers
+and pirates, a motley flotilla. Then the stout crafts of Drake, Behring,
+Heceta, Cook, Malaspina, Valdez, Bodega, Vancouver, La P&eacute;rouse; ships of
+discovery, of trade, of war, of adventure, of science; flags of Spain, of
+Russia, of Portugal, of France, of England;&mdash;on they throng from the hazy
+Pacific rim toward the Oregon shore. And soon we seem to see, circling
+around them, canoes with their red-skinned paddlers from the River&#8217;s
+mouth. But ships and flags, explorers and natives, fade like a dissolving
+view. In their place appears a gallant bark, with banner streaming free.
+What ship? What banner? The <i>Columbia Rediviva</i>, and the Stars and
+Stripes&mdash;the flag that still waves over the land of the Oregon.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+<p>And now our vessel rises and falls upon the long swell of the Pacific. Our
+journey on the Columbia River is ended, and we are upon the open sea.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">[Pg 398]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img92.jpg" alt="" /></div>
+<p class="center">Band of Kootenai Indians, B. C.<br />Photo. by Allan Lean, Nelson.</p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_399" id="Page_399">[Pg 399]</a></span></p>
+<p class="title">INDEX</p>
+
+
+<p>
+<span class="huge">A</span><br />
+<br />
+Abernethy, Clark &amp; Co., builders of steamers on Columbia, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br />
+<br />
+Abernethy, George, first Provisional Governor, <a href="#Page_194">194</a><br />
+<br />
+Adams, Mount, origin of, in Indian myth, <a href="#Page_22">22-24</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">elevation of, <a href="#Page_358">358</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">caves of, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sport in vicinity, <a href="#Page_360">360</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">structure of, <a href="#Page_361">361-362</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">storm on, <a href="#Page_364">364</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ascent of, <a href="#Page_365">365-366</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">views from, <a href="#Page_366">366-368</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Aguilar, Martin, Spanish explorer, <a href="#Page_44">44-45</a><br />
+<br />
+Ainsworth, J. C., first captain of steamer <i>Lot Whitcomb</i>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">joins new company, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">skill in running rapids, <a href="#Page_243">243</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Albatross</i>, ship connected with Winship enterprise, <a href="#Page_109">109-11</a><br />
+<br />
+American Board of Foreign Missions undertakes work for Oregon Indians, <a href="#Page_145">145</a><br />
+<br />
+Applegate, Jesse, disasters of family on Columbia River, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">extract from pioneer address, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Armstrong, Capt. F. P., trip on Kootenai River, <a href="#Page_280">280-281</a><br />
+<br />
+Arrow Lakes, steamboat journey on, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">scenery of, <a href="#Page_293">293</a> <i>et seq.</i></span><br />
+<br />
+Arteaga, voyage on the Alaskan coast, <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br />
+<br />
+Astor, John Jacob, founder of Pacific Fur Co., <a href="#Page_89">89</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">establishes company at Astoria, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his plans and mistakes, <a href="#Page_115">115-116</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Astoria, founding of, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">restored to United States, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">amplitude of harbour, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">scenery of surroundings, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">industries of, <a href="#Page_390">390-391</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fishing fleets, <a href="#Page_392">392</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">resorts adjoining, <a href="#Page_393">393</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Astoria and Columbia River Railroad, <a href="#Page_362">362</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">B</span><br />
+<br />
+Baker, Dr. D. S., railroad builder, <a href="#Page_363">363-364</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Baker, D. S.</i>, the steamer, running the Dalles, <a href="#Page_243">243</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Bailey Gatzert</i>, steamer on Columbia River, <a href="#Page_248">248</a><br />
+<br />
+Balch, Frederick, his story, <i>The Bridge of the Gods</i>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+<br />
+Bancroft, H. H., discussion of loss of <i>Tonquin</i>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a><br />
+<br />
+Banff, attraction as a resort, <a href="#Page_274">274</a><br />
+<br />
+Bannock Indian War, <a href="#Page_233">233</a><br />
+<br />
+Barlow, S. K., building road across Cascade Mountains, <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br />
+<br />
+Barrell, Joseph, originator of fur company at Boston, <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br />
+<br />
+Bassett, W. F., first gold discovery in Idaho, <a href="#Page_253">253</a><br />
+<br />
+Bateaux, description of, <a href="#Page_134">134</a><br />
+<br />
+Baughman, Capt., pilot on Columbia and Snake Rivers, <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Beaver</i>, vessel of the Pacific Fur Company, <a href="#Page_123">123-124</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Beaver</i>, first steamship on Columbia River, <a href="#Page_235">235</a><br />
+<br />
+Beers, Alanson, members of Executive Committee of Provisional Government, <a href="#Page_194">194</a><br />
+<br />
+&#8220;Beeswax Ship,&#8221; story of, <a href="#Page_41">41-42</a><br />
+<br />
+Behring, Vitus, explorations on Pacific Coast, <a href="#Page_50">50-51</a><br />
+<br />
+Belcher, Sir Edward, expedition to Columbia River, <a href="#Page_164">164</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Belle</i>, steamer on Columbia River, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br />
+<br />
+Benton, Thomas H., expressions in regard to Oregon, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">special advocate for Oregon, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Bishop, B. B., steamboat builder on Columbia River, <a href="#Page_235">235</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_400" id="Page_400">[Pg 400]</a></span><br />
+Blakeney, Capt., in charge of steamer <i>Isabel</i> on Upper Columbia, <a href="#Page_278">278</a><br />
+<br />
+Blalock, Dr. N. G., connection with large enterprises, <a href="#Page_328">328</a><br />
+<br />
+Blanchet, Rev. F. N., book on Catholic Missions, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">journey to Oregon, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">locates in Willamette Valley, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Blanchet, Rev. Magloire, Catholic Mission at Walla Walla, <a href="#Page_157">157</a><br />
+<br />
+Boas, Dr. Franz, investigator of Indian legends, <a href="#Page_35">35</a><br />
+<br />
+Bodega, first voyage, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">later voyage, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Bonneville, Capt. E. L. E., organises trading company, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">makes explorations on Columbia River, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">meets Washington Irving, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Bradford, Daniel, steamboat building on Columbia River, <a href="#Page_235">235</a><br />
+<br />
+Bradford &amp; Co., steamboat line on Columbia River, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br />
+<br />
+Broughton, Lieut. W. R., in command of the <i>Chatham</i>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">entrance of Columbia River and exploration, <a href="#Page_66">66-67</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">erroneous statements, <a href="#Page_67">67-68</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Buchanan, James, course in regard to boundary of Oregon, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br />
+<br />
+Bullfinch, account of American fur-trade, <a href="#Page_101">101</a><br />
+<br />
+Burnett, Peter, speech to immigrants, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">governor of California, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">opinion in regard to Provisional Government, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">C</span><br />
+<br />
+Cabinet Rapids, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br />
+<br />
+Cabrillo, navigator on coast of California, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br />
+<br />
+Calhoun, John C., attitude on Oregon question, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">peculiar situation of, <a href="#Page_198">198-199</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Cameahwait, chief of Shoshone Indians, meeting with Lewis and Clark party, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">finding Sacajawea, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Canadian boatmen, their skill and gayety, <a href="#Page_132">132-133</a><br />
+<br />
+Canadian Pacific Railroad, route of, over Rocky Mts., <a href="#Page_274">274</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">over Selkirks, <a href="#Page_285">285-286</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">excellence of management, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">steamboats on lakes, <a href="#Page_292">292</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Canadian Rockies, character of, and steepness of descent, <a href="#Page_275">275</a><br />
+<br />
+Canoes, <a href="#Page_133">133</a><br />
+<br />
+Cape Horn, <a href="#Page_349">349</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Carolina</i>, steamer crossing Columbia Bar, <a href="#Page_235">235</a><br />
+<br />
+Cascades, a dividing line, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">historic and physical interest of, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">locks, <a href="#Page_341">341</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first notice of tide, <a href="#Page_341">341</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fish-wheels and spearmen, <a href="#Page_342">342</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Cascade Mountains, general description, <a href="#Page_12">12-13</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the great peaks, <a href="#Page_13">13-14</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">valleys on east side, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">valleys on west side, <a href="#Page_15">15-16</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cleft by Columbia River, <a href="#Page_333">333</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Cass, Senator, speech in regard to Oregon, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br />
+<br />
+Castle Rock, unique appearance, <a href="#Page_343">343</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ascents of, <a href="#Page_344">344</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cave and arrowheads, <a href="#Page_346">346</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Catlin, George, account of Indians who sought &#8220;Book of Life,&#8221; <a href="#Page_138">138</a><br />
+<br />
+Cayuse War, beginning, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ending, <a href="#Page_212">212</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Celiast, Indian woman, <a href="#Page_34">34</a><br />
+<br />
+Champoeg, meetings for Provisional Government, <a href="#Page_192">192-193</a><br />
+<br />
+Chelan Lake, type of Columbian lakes, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first appearance, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glacial origin, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">depth of ca&ntilde;on, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">comparison with other scenes, <a href="#Page_300">300-301</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">storms on, <a href="#Page_301">301-302</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sunset on, <a href="#Page_303">303</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Chemeketa, the Indian council ground, <a href="#Page_142">142</a><br />
+<br />
+Chinook wind, legend of, <a href="#Page_24">24-27</a><br />
+<br />
+Chittenden, Major H. M., book on American fur-trade, <a href="#Page_203">203</a><br />
+<br />
+Choteau, Pierre and Auguste, founding of St. Louis, <a href="#Page_108">108</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Christian Advocate</i>, account of Indians looking for &#8220;Book of Life,&#8221; <a href="#Page_137">137</a><br />
+<br />
+Clark, William, lieutenant of exploring party, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Indians think him &#8220;medicine man,&#8221; <a href="#Page_82">82</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Indians looking for &#8220;Book of Life,&#8221; <a href="#Page_136">136-137</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Clarke, Gen. N. S., in command of Columbia, <a href="#Page_224">224</a><br />
+<br />
+Clatsop Plains, favourite resort of Indians, <a href="#Page_34">34</a><br />
+<br />
+Clay, Henry, attitude on Oregon question, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">[Pg 401]</a></span><br />
+Coe, Capt. Lawrence, building steamer <i>Colonel Wright</i>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">account of first trip on upper Columbia and Snake Rivers, <a href="#Page_243">243-244</a></span><br />
+<br />
+C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene, Lake, as a resort, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">its mines, <a href="#Page_298">298</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Colleges founded as result of missions, <a href="#Page_157">157</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Colonel Wright</i>, the steamer, on upper Columbia, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">makes first trip on upper rivers, <a href="#Page_243">243-244</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Columbia Basin, forces that wrought it, <a href="#Page_6">6-7</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">general description, <a href="#Page_10">10-15</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">climate, <a href="#Page_17">17-18</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Columbia River, many names, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">early attracts attention, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">connection with Kootenai River, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tomanowas bridge, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">damming at Cascades, <a href="#Page_21">21-22</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">discovery by Heceta, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">discovered and named by Robert Gray, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">results of discovery, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first navigation by Lewis and Clark party, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">falls passed by party, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">submerged forests, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">descent by Lewis and Clark, <a href="#Page_84">84-85</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first sight by Hunt&#8217;s party, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Tonquin</i> on bar, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">forts on, <a href="#Page_129">129-131</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">crossing of Bar by the ship, <i>L&#8217;Indefatigable</i>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">descent by immigrants of 1843, <a href="#Page_172">172-174</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of Bar by Provost, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">massacres upon, by Indians, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">steamboat business, <a href="#Page_239">239</a> <i>et seq.</i>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first steamboats on lower part, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on upper part, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">railroads along, <a href="#Page_261">261-262</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">navigability of, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">prospective traffic of, <a href="#Page_267">267-269</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">character above Golden, <a href="#Page_278">278</a> <i>et seq.</i>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">character below Golden, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lakes of, <a href="#Page_291">291</a> <i>et seq.</i>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">from Robson to Kettle Falls, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">from Kettle Falls to Wenatchee, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rapids and shores from Wenatchee to Pasco, <a href="#Page_321">321</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">irrigating enterprises, <a href="#Page_323">323-324</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">between Pasco and The Dalles, <a href="#Page_328">328-329</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">canal, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">section beginning at The Dalles, <a href="#Page_234">234-236</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">peculiar character at Cascades, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tomanowas bridge, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">compared with other scenes, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">appearance below Rooster Rock, <a href="#Page_374">374</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">between Portland and the ocean, <a href="#Page_387">387-389</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">farewell to, <a href="#Page_396">396</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Columbia River Navigation Co., <a href="#Page_237">237</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Columbia</i>, the steamer, on River, <a href="#Page_235">235</a><br />
+<br />
+Condon, Professor Thomas, geological theories, <a href="#Page_5">5</a><br />
+<br />
+Cook, Capt. James, journey on Oregon coast, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">death, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Cortereal, Gaspar, Straits of Anian, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br />
+<br />
+Coxe, account of fur-trade, <a href="#Page_100">100</a><br />
+<br />
+Coyote god, fight with Kamiah monster, <a href="#Page_19">19-21</a><br />
+<br />
+Coyote Head, <a href="#Page_337">337</a><br />
+<br />
+Crooks, Ramsay, partner of Pacific Fur Co., <a href="#Page_89">89</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hard experience with Indians, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Culliby Lake, <a href="#Page_42">42</a><br />
+<br />
+Cultee, Charley, Indian story teller, <a href="#Page_35">35</a><br />
+<br />
+Curry, Governor, calling for volunteers, <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">D</span><br />
+<br />
+Dalles, The, historical interest of, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">varied resources of, <a href="#Page_330">330-331</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">scenery, <a href="#Page_331">331</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Day, John, treatment by Indians and death, <a href="#Page_96">96-97</a><br />
+<br />
+Dayton, Congressman, expressions about Oregon, <a href="#Page_187">187</a><br />
+<br />
+Dawson, Professor, explanation of sources of Columbia, <a href="#Page_278">278</a><br />
+<br />
+De Haro at Nootka, <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br />
+<br />
+De May in battle of Pine Creek, <a href="#Page_227">227</a><br />
+<br />
+Demers, Rev. Modest, missionary to Indians, <a href="#Page_155">155</a><br />
+<br />
+De Smet, Rev. Pierre J., books on Catholic missions, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in Northern Idaho, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in Europe for reinforcements, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">crossing Bar, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Disoway, G. P., account of Indians who sought &#8220;Book of Life,&#8221; <a href="#Page_137">137</a><br />
+<br />
+Dixson, figures on profits of fur-trade, <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br />
+<br />
+Donation Land Law attracts immigration, <a href="#Page_177">177</a><br />
+<br />
+Dorion, Madame, desperate situation in Blue Mountains, <a href="#Page_126">126</a><br />
+<br />
+Drake, Francis, explorations, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_402" id="Page_402">[Pg 402]</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">E</span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Eagle</i>, steamer above Cascades, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rescuing victims of Indian war, <a href="#Page_236">236</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Edwards, Rev. P. L., associate missionary, <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br />
+<br />
+Eells, Rev. Cushing, missionary to Oregon Indians, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">locating at Tshimakain, <a href="#Page_152">152</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Elliott, S. G., first railroad surveys, <a href="#Page_259">259</a><br />
+<br />
+England, difficulty with Spain over Nootka Sound, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">F</span><br />
+<br />
+Farnham, T. J., in command of Peoria party, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">history of Oregon and California, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Ferrelo, explorations on the coast, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br />
+<br />
+Field, mountain resort, <a href="#Page_276">276</a><br />
+<br />
+Fiske, Wilbur, leading missionary movements, <a href="#Page_140">140</a><br />
+<br />
+Florida Treaty with Spain, <a href="#Page_184">184</a><br />
+<br />
+Fonte, extravagant stories, <a href="#Page_46">46</a><br />
+<br />
+Fort Clatsop built by Lewis and Clark, <a href="#Page_85">85</a><br />
+<br />
+France, assistance to American colonies, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+<br />
+Franch&egrave;re, Gabriel, history of Pacific Fur Co., <a href="#Page_118">118</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">founding of Astoria, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">account of destruction of <i>Tonquin</i>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Fuca, Juan de, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br />
+<br />
+Fur-trade, beginnings, <a href="#Page_56">56-57</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on Oregon coast, <a href="#Page_60">60-61</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">connection with discoveries, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">historical importance, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">financial profits of, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">G</span><br />
+<br />
+Gale, Joseph, building of <i>Star of Oregon</i>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sails to California, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on Executive Committee of Provisional Government, <a href="#Page_194">194</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Gale, William, on ship <i>Albatross</i>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">extract from journal, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Galiano, voyage around Vancouver Island, <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br />
+<br />
+Garnett, Major, in Yakima War, <a href="#Page_225">225</a><br />
+<br />
+Gaston, Lieutenant, in battle of Pine Creek, <a href="#Page_226">226</a><br />
+<br />
+Gervais, Joseph, location in Oregon, <a href="#Page_142">142</a><br />
+<br />
+Ghent, Treaty of, <a href="#Page_182">182</a><br />
+<br />
+Gilliam, Cornelius, in Cayuse War, <a href="#Page_201">201</a><br />
+<br />
+Glacier, Canadian resort, <a href="#Page_286">286-287</a><br />
+<br />
+Glacier Lake, <a href="#Page_310">310</a><br />
+<br />
+Glacier Peak, <a href="#Page_311">311</a><br />
+<br />
+Golden on Columbia River, <a href="#Page_277">277</a><br />
+<br />
+Grande Ronde Valley, first view by Hunt Party, <a href="#Page_94">94</a><br />
+<br />
+Grant, Captain, attempting to keep back American immigration, <a href="#Page_171">171</a><br />
+<br />
+Gray, Capt. Robert, in command of <i>Lady Washington</i>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">as a fur-trader, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">discovers Columbia River, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Gray, W. H., history of Oregon, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">characteristics, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">four sons, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">estimate of population, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in Provisional Government, <a href="#Page_190">190-191</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">steamboat enterprises, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">adventure on Snake River <a href="#Page_241">241</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Gray, Capt. Wm. P., story of ascent of Snake River, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trip down Snake River, <a href="#Page_247">247</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Great Britain, claims to Oregon, <a href="#Page_180">180-181</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">H</span><br />
+<br />
+Halhaltlossot, or Lawyer, <a href="#Page_151">151</a><br />
+<br />
+Hallakallakeen (Joseph), summer camp, <a href="#Page_297">297</a><br />
+<br />
+Hard winter of 1861, <a href="#Page_257">257</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Hassalo</i>, the steamer, <a href="#Page_235">235-237</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Hassalo, No. 2</i>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a><br />
+<br />
+Hathaway, Felix, building schooner, <i>Star of Oregon</i>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a><br />
+<br />
+Heceta, first voyage, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">discovery of Columbia River, <a href="#Page_52">52-54</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Henry, Andrew, trading post on Snake River, <a href="#Page_108">108-109</a><br />
+<br />
+Hickey, Capt. F., at restoration of Astoria, <a href="#Page_125">125</a><br />
+<br />
+Hill, David, on Executive Committee of Provisional Government, <a href="#Page_194">194</a><br />
+<br />
+Hill, J. J., railroad builder, <a href="#Page_262">262</a><br />
+<br />
+Holladay, Ben, president of Oregon Central Railroad, <a href="#Page_259">259</a><br />
+<br />
+Holmes, Oliver W., quotation, <a href="#Page_275">275</a><br />
+<br />
+Hood, Mount, origin of, in Indian myth, <a href="#Page_22">22-24</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first appearance of, <a href="#Page_333">333</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">elevation, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">approach to, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cloud Cap Inn, <a href="#Page_355">355</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">view from, <a href="#Page_356">356</a>;</span><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403">[Pg 403]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">historic character of view, <a href="#Page_357">357</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">appearance from La Camas, <a href="#Page_376">376</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Hood River and Valley, appearance and productions of, <a href="#Page_238">238</a><br />
+<br />
+Howard, General O. O., in Nez Perc&eacute; War of 1877, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of Joseph, <a href="#Page_231">231</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company, organisation of, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">joined with North-western Fur Co., <a href="#Page_107">107</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">forts, <a href="#Page_128">128</a> <i>et seq.</i>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boats and boatmen, <a href="#Page_131">131-134</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">policy toward Americans, <a href="#Page_150">150-153</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">attitude toward Provisional Government, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">treatment of Dr. McLoughlin, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Hunt, Wilson P., forms land division of Pacific Fur Co., <a href="#Page_89">89</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">leader in journey, <a href="#Page_92">92</a> <i>et seq.</i></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">I</span><br />
+<br />
+Idaho, name of, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reached by Lewis and Clark, <a href="#Page_79">79-81</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first steamboat, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">gold discoveries, <a href="#Page_252">252</a> <i>et seq.</i>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">university, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">irrigation systems, <a href="#Page_317">317</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Illecillewaet River, <a href="#Page_287">287</a><br />
+<br />
+Immigration of 1843, beginnings, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Fort Hall, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">constructing flatboats on Columbia, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">disasters on River, <a href="#Page_174">174-175</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">succoured by Dr. McLoughlin, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">settlement in Willamette Valley, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Indians, sad history, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">myths, <a href="#Page_19">19</a> <i>et seq.</i>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">names, <a href="#Page_31">31-32</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">traders in furs, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Indians&#8217;, the three Nez Perc&eacute;, quest for the &#8220;Book of Life,&#8221; <a href="#Page_139">139</a><br />
+<br />
+Indian War of 1855, beginning, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">battle at Walla Walla, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">unsatisfactory end, <a href="#Page_224">224</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Indian War of 1858, <a href="#Page_225">225</a> <i>et seq.</i><br />
+<br />
+Inland Empire, origin, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">general description, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Intelligencer, National</i>, expressions in regard to Oregon, <a href="#Page_187">187</a><br />
+<br />
+Irving, Washington, author of <i>Astoria</i>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">J</span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Jason P. Flint</i>, steamer on Columbia, <a href="#Page_235">235</a><br />
+<br />
+Jefferson, Thomas, connection with Pacific Coast, <a href="#Page_69">69-70</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">organisation of Lewis and Clark expedition, <a href="#Page_72">72-73</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">instructions to party, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Jenny Clark</i>, steamer on Willamette, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br />
+<br />
+Jetty, at mouth of River, construction, <a href="#Page_395">395</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">prospective results, <a href="#Page_396">396</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Joint Occupation Treaty, <a href="#Page_134">134</a><br />
+<br />
+Joseph, Indian chief, in Walla Walla council, <a href="#Page_217">217-218</a><br />
+<br />
+Joseph (Hallakallakeen), in great war of 1877, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">captured, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">later life and character, <a href="#Page_232">232</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Joseph War of 1877, <a href="#Page_229">229</a> <i>et seq.</i><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">K</span><br />
+<br />
+Kamiah monster, myth of, <a href="#Page_19">19-21</a><br />
+<br />
+Kamiakin, Yakima chief, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Walla Walla Council, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">conspiracy to kill Governor Stevens, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of by Stevens, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">breaking up of treaties, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">new force of warriors, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">apparent success, <a href="#Page_224">224</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Kamm, Jacob, engineer on steamer <i>Lot Whitcomb</i>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a><br />
+<br />
+Keith, J., at restoration of Astoria, <a href="#Page_125">125</a><br />
+<br />
+Kelley, Hall J., home and character, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">expedition to California and Oregon, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">return to New England, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Kelley, Col. J. K., in battle of the Walla Walla, <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br />
+<br />
+Kendrick, Capt. John, in command of the <i>Columbia Rediviva</i>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in fur-trade, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Kettle Falls, historic interest, <a href="#Page_296">296</a><br />
+<br />
+Kennewick, <a href="#Page_227">227</a><br />
+<br />
+Kicking Horse River (Wapta), origin of name, <a href="#Page_277">277</a><br />
+<br />
+Kilbourne, Ralph, builder of <i>Star of Oregon</i>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a><br />
+<br />
+Kimooenim River, or Snake River, first view by Lewis and Clark party, <a href="#Page_81">81</a><br />
+<br />
+Kip, Lieutenant, account of Walla Walla Council, <a href="#Page_214">214-215</a><br />
+<br />
+Klickitat Indians, legends, <a href="#Page_28">28-30</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">atrocities of, at Cascades, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Kobaiway, Indian chief, <a href="#Page_35">35</a><br />
+<br />
+Konapee, story of, <a href="#Page_37">37-39</a><br />
+<br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404">[Pg 404]</a></span>Kooskooskie River, discovered by the Lewis and Clark party, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">navigation on, by Lewis and Clark party, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Kootenai River, character of navigation, <a href="#Page_280">280-281</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bonnington Falls of, <a href="#Page_294">294</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Kootenai Lake, description of, <a href="#Page_295">295-296</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sporting on, <a href="#Page_296">296</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">L</span><br />
+<br />
+La Camas, paper mill, <a href="#Page_375">375</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Ladd, Carrie</i>, steamer on Willamette, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br />
+<br />
+Lamazee, or Lamazu, brings news of destruction of <i>Tonquin</i>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Lark</i>, wreck of, <a href="#Page_124">124</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Lausanne</i>, Methodist mission ship, <a href="#Page_142">142</a><br />
+<br />
+Lawyer, Indian chief favourable to whites, <a href="#Page_214">214-216</a><br />
+<br />
+Le Breton, G. W., part in founding Provisional Government, <a href="#Page_192">192</a><br />
+<br />
+Ledyard, John, connection with Jefferson, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">comprehension of fur-trade, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Lee, Rev. Daniel, missionary to Indians, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mission at The Dalles, <a href="#Page_142">142</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Lee, Rev. Jason, missionary to Indians, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">locating mission at Chemawa, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in the East for reinforcements, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">death, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">connection with Ewing Young, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">memorial to Congress, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">influence, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lecture at Peoria, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chairman of meeting of settlers, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Lewis and Clark expedition, its inception by Jefferson, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">summary by Captain Lewis, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mention of, by Jefferson, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Lewis, Jo, part in Whitman massacre, <a href="#Page_206">206</a><br />
+<br />
+Lewis, Meriwether, selection by Jefferson for leader of party, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of crossing Divide, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Lewiston, founding of, <a href="#Page_245">245</a><br />
+<br />
+Linn Senator, presenting memorials to Congress, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his death, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Lisa, Manuel, organises the Missouri Fur Company, <a href="#Page_108">108</a><br />
+<br />
+Looking Glass, famous speech, <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Lot Whitcomb</i>, the steamer, on Columbia River, <a href="#Page_235">235</a><br />
+<br />
+Louise, Lake, beauties of, <a href="#Page_274">274</a><br />
+<br />
+Louisiana Purchase, significance, <a href="#Page_71">71</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">M</span><br />
+<br />
+Macbeth, Miss Kate, opinion about Indians who looked for &#8220;Book of Life,&#8221; <a href="#Page_136">136-137</a><br />
+<br />
+Mackenzie, Alexander, expedition to Pacific Coast, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">journey to the Arctic Ocean, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reaches Pacific Ocean, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></span><br />
+<br />
+McBean, Wm., account of Walla Walla Council, <a href="#Page_217">217</a><br />
+<br />
+McCellan, Robert, partner of Pacific Fur Company, <a href="#Page_89">89</a><br />
+<br />
+McClellan, Geo. B., assists Stevens in reconnaissance for Pacific Railroad, <a href="#Page_260">260</a><br />
+<br />
+McDougall, Duncan, smallpox bottle, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">marries daughter of Comcomly, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sells out Company, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></span><br />
+<br />
+McKay, Dr. W. C., physician at Pendleton, <a href="#Page_319">319</a><br />
+<br />
+McKenzie, Donald, partner of Pacific Fur Company, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">leads division of party, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sells out Company, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></span><br />
+<br />
+McKinley, Allen, building of steamer on Columbia, <a href="#Page_235">235</a><br />
+<br />
+McLoughlin, Dr. John, as factor of Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reception of Methodist missionaries, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">meets the Whitman party of missionaries, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">connection with building <i>Star of Oregon</i>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sees approaching success of Americans, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stories connecting him with Americans, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">account of Provisional Government, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">becomes an American citizen, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">land troubles, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sadness of old age, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">summary of character, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Maldonado, extravagant stories, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">map, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Maquinna, Indian chief, <a href="#Page_202">202</a><br />
+<br />
+Martinez, voyage on coast of Oregon, <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Mary</i>, steamer on Upper Columbia, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rescues victims of Indian war, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on her regular route, <a href="#Page_237">237</a></span><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">[Pg 405]</a></span><br />
+Mazama Club, influence of, <a href="#Page_353">353</a><br />
+<br />
+Meares, Capt. John, English explorer, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">voyages to Oregon Coast, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at mouth of Columbia, <a href="#Page_59">59-60</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Meek, Jo, part in founding Provisional Government, <a href="#Page_192">192</a><br />
+<br />
+Memaloose Island, <a href="#Page_337">337</a><br />
+<br />
+Miller, Joseph, partner of Pacific Fur Company, <a href="#Page_89">89</a><br />
+<br />
+Minto, John, account of founding of Provisional Government, <a href="#Page_190">190</a><br />
+<br />
+Montcachabe, Indian who first crossed the continent, <a href="#Page_70">70</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Moody, Mary</i>, steamer, first steamer on Pend Oreille Lake, <a href="#Page_245">245</a><br />
+<br />
+Moody, Z. F., builds steamer, <a href="#Page_245">245</a><br />
+<br />
+Moorehouse, Major Lee, Indian photographer, <a href="#Page_320">320</a><br />
+<br />
+Morigeau, Baptiste, pioneer on Lake Windermere, <a href="#Page_283">283</a><br />
+<br />
+Moscow, site of University of Idaho, <a href="#Page_315">315</a><br />
+<br />
+Moses, Indian chief, <a href="#Page_297">297</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Mountain Buck</i>, steamer on Columbia, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br />
+<br />
+Mountaineers&#8217; Club, purpose and location, <a href="#Page_353">353</a><br />
+<br />
+Mowry, Wm., report of speech by Nez Perc&eacute; Indian, <a href="#Page_139">139</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Multnomah</i>, steamer on Columbia, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br />
+<br />
+Multnomah Falls, <a href="#Page_348">348</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">N</span><br />
+<br />
+Nekahni, Mt., location of, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">beauty of, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the &#8220;treasure ship,&#8221; <a href="#Page_40">40-41</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Nelson, metropolis of the Kootenai, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fruit industries of, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mines of, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">transportation of, <a href="#Page_295">295</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Nesmith, J. W., extract on immigration of 1843, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">account of Indian guide, Sticcus, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in Indian War of 1855, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Nez Perc&eacute; Indians, origin of, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first meeting with Lewis and Clark party, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">looking for &#8220;Book of Life,&#8221; <a href="#Page_137">137</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Nootka Sound, discovery of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">important centre, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">as a cause of dispute between England and Spain, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></span><br />
+<br />
+North Bank Railroad, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cost of, <a href="#Page_377">377</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bridge, <a href="#Page_377">377</a></span><br />
+<br />
+North-west Fur Company, organisation, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">unites with Hudson&#8217;s Bay Company, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in possession of Columbia Basin, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">O</span><br />
+<br />
+Oak Point founded by Winship brothers, <a href="#Page_110">110</a><br />
+<br />
+Ogden, Peter Skeen, ransoms survivors of Whitman massacre, <a href="#Page_207">207</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Okanogan</i>, the steamer, first to run Tumwater Falls, <a href="#Page_242">242</a><br />
+<br />
+Okanogan Indians, story of, <a href="#Page_284">284-285</a><br />
+<br />
+Oneonta Gorge, <a href="#Page_347">347</a><br />
+<br />
+Oregon, name of, <a href="#Page_31">31</a><br />
+<br />
+Oregon Question, its complicated and momentous character, <a href="#Page_200">200</a><br />
+<br />
+Oregon Railroad and Navigation Co. organised, <a href="#Page_246">246</a><br />
+<br />
+Oregon Short Line Railroad, <a href="#Page_262">262</a><br />
+<br />
+Oregon Steam Navigation Co. organised, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">development of business, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">its portages, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sells out, <a href="#Page_246">246</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Oregon Transportation Co. organised, <a href="#Page_237">237</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Oregonian</i>, newspaper, influence of, <a href="#Page_386">386</a><br />
+<br />
+Osborne, Mr., escape from Whitman massacre, <a href="#Page_207">207</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">P</span><br />
+<br />
+Pacific Fur Co., organisation of, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">its dissolution, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Paha Cliffs, <a href="#Page_336">336</a><br />
+<br />
+Pakenham, British envoy, and his course in regard to Oregon, <a href="#Page_199">199-200</a><br />
+<br />
+Pambrun, Pierre, instructed Indians in Catholic faith, <a href="#Page_137">137</a><br />
+<br />
+Parker, Rev. Samuel, in Oregon to investigate condition of Indians, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his traits, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">book, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Pasco, lands around, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">prospects of, <a href="#Page_327">327</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Patriot, Illinois</i>, report of the Indians looking for &#8220;Book of Life,&#8221; <a href="#Page_137">137</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Peacock</i>, ship of Wilkes Expedition lost on Columbia Bar, <a href="#Page_165">165</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_406" id="Page_406">[Pg 406]</a></span><br />
+Pearce, E. D., connection with discovery of gold in Idaho, <a href="#Page_252">252</a><br />
+<br />
+Pearson, express rider, rides to notify Stevens of Great Yakima War, <a href="#Page_219">219-220</a><br />
+<br />
+Pendleton, its industries and some of its citizens, <a href="#Page_319">319-320</a><br />
+<br />
+Peoria party of immigrants, <a href="#Page_163">163</a><br />
+<br />
+Perez, voyage of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a><br />
+<br />
+Perkins, Rev. H. K. W., mission at The Dalles, <a href="#Page_142">142</a><br />
+<br />
+Peupeumoxmox, Indian chief in war of 1855, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">leads force to Walla Walla, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">killed, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Polk, President, management of Oregon Question, <a href="#Page_199">199-200</a><br />
+<br />
+Poppleton, Irene Lincoln, article in <i>Oregon Historical Quarterly</i>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a><br />
+<br />
+Portland developed by discovery of gold in California, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">location, <a href="#Page_381">381</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">transportation facilities, <a href="#Page_382">382</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">commerce, <a href="#Page_382">382-383</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">buildings, <a href="#Page_384">384</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">artistic character of, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Historical Society, <a href="#Page_385">385-386</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Potter, T. J.</i>, steamer on Columbia, <a href="#Page_248">248</a><br />
+<br />
+Priest Rapids, character of, <a href="#Page_322">322</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">origin of name, <a href="#Page_322">322</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">power for pumping, <a href="#Page_324">324</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Provisional Government, origin of, <a href="#Page_190">190-192</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">organisation of, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">officers of, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">state house for, <a href="#Page_194">194</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Provost, J. B., at restoration of Astoria, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">agent of United States for receiving Astoria from Great Britain, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">describes Columbia Bar, <a href="#Page_182">182-183</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Pullman, site of State College, <a href="#Page_315">315</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">R</span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Raccoon</i>, British man-of-war at Astoria, <a href="#Page_124">124</a><br />
+<br />
+Railroad Creek, scenery about, <a href="#Page_309">309-310</a><br />
+<br />
+Rainier, Mt., origin of name, <a href="#Page_32">32</a><br />
+<br />
+Rector, Wm., road across Cascade Mountains, <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br />
+<br />
+Revelstoke, character as a junction, <a href="#Page_292">292</a><br />
+<br />
+Rock Island Rapids, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br />
+<br />
+Roosevelt, Theodore, view of Calhoun&#8217;s policy in regard to Oregon, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reference to Columbia River, <a href="#Page_246">246</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Rooster Rock, appearance of, <a href="#Page_349">349-350</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">River below, <a href="#Page_375">375</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Rosalia, monument of Steptoe, <a href="#Page_315">315</a><br />
+<br />
+Ross, Alexander, adventure in Yakima country, <a href="#Page_126">126-127</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">narration of profits in fur-trade, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on blowing up of <i>Tonquin</i>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Ruckle and Olmstead put steamer on Columbia, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br />
+<br />
+Russia, entrance upon American exploration, <a href="#Page_50">50-51</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">S</span><br />
+<br />
+Sacajawea, with Lewis and Clark party, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sees the whale, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">finds her brother, Cameahwait, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></span><br />
+<br />
+St. Helens, Mt., origin of, in Indian myth, <a href="#Page_22">22-24</a><br />
+<br />
+St. Joe River, its beauties, <a href="#Page_297">297</a><br />
+<br />
+St. Peter&#8217;s Dome, <a href="#Page_346">346</a><br />
+<br />
+Salmon River, Lewis and Clark party at the head of, <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br />
+<br />
+Saltese, C&oelig;ur d&#8217;Alene chief, <a href="#Page_226">226</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>San Jos&eacute;</i>, ship connected with Indian story, <a href="#Page_42">42</a><br />
+<br />
+Scott, Harvey, character and influence as an editor, <a href="#Page_386">386</a><br />
+<br />
+Sea-otter, importance in the fur-trade, <a href="#Page_100">100</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Se&ntilde;orita</i>, steamer on Columbia, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br />
+<br />
+Shakspere, his location of Caliban and Ariel in the Far West, <a href="#Page_47">47</a><br />
+<br />
+Shaw, Col. B. F., battle of Grande Ronde, <a href="#Page_222">222</a><br />
+<br />
+Shepard, Rev. Cyrus, missionary to Indians, <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br />
+<br />
+Sheridan, battle at Cascades, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+<br />
+Shoshone Indians, meeting with Lewis and Clark party, <a href="#Page_76">76-78</a><br />
+<br />
+Shuswap Indians, story of, <a href="#Page_284">284-285</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Sierra Nevada</i>, the steamship, its cargo of treasure, <a href="#Page_239">239</a><br />
+<br />
+Simpson, S. L., extract from poem of, <a href="#Page_380">380</a><br />
+<br />
+Smith, Rev. A. B., minister to Oregon Indians, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Kamiah, <a href="#Page_152">152</a></span><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_407" id="Page_407">[Pg 407]</a></span><br />
+Smith, J. C., connection with gold mines in Idaho, <a href="#Page_253">253</a><br />
+<br />
+Smith, Jedediah, American trapper thought to have taught religion to Indians, <a href="#Page_137">137</a><br />
+<br />
+Smith, William, mate on <i>Albatross</i>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a><br />
+<br />
+Snake River, orchards of, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">heat, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">irrigation systems of, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shoshone Falls of, <a href="#Page_317">317</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Snow-peaks, general group of, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">zones of, <a href="#Page_370">370-372</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Snickster, adventure in Steptoe expedition, <a href="#Page_228">228</a><br />
+<br />
+Sowles, Capt. Cornelius, character of, <a href="#Page_116">116</a><br />
+<br />
+Spain, connection with Oregon exploration, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">downfall, <a href="#Page_48">48-49</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">settlement of California, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">favouring conditions for exploration, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">conflict with England over Nootka, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">character of claims to Oregon, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Spalding, Rev. H. H., in Oregon as missionary, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his traits of character, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">among Nez Perc&eacute;s, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first printing press west of Rocky Mountains, <a href="#Page_152">152</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Spalding, Mrs. H. H., characteristics, <a href="#Page_148">148</a><br />
+<br />
+Speelyei, Indian god, struggle with Wishpoosh, <a href="#Page_8">8-9</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">creates Indian tribes, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Spencer Chas. D.</i>, steamer on Columbia, <a href="#Page_248">248</a><br />
+<br />
+Spokane, remarkable character as a city, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">water power of Falls, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">grandeur as spectacle, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">railway system, <a href="#Page_316">316</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Spokane House, location of, <a href="#Page_315">315</a><br />
+<br />
+Spotted Eagle, remarkable speech, <a href="#Page_223">223</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Star of Oregon</i>, schooner built on Willamette River, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trip to San Francisco, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Stark, Benjamin, in steamboat business, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Statesman, Washington</i>, extracts in regard to Idaho mines, <a href="#Page_255">255-256</a><br />
+<br />
+Stehekin River, ca&ntilde;on of, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rainbow Falls of, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Horseshoe Basin of, <a href="#Page_306">306</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Steptoe, Col. E. J., dissension with Stevens, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fort at Walla Walla, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">disastrous expedition to Spokane, <a href="#Page_225">225</a> <i>et seq.</i></span><br />
+<br />
+Stevens, Hazard, account of Walla Walla Council, <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br />
+<br />
+Stevens, I. I., appointed Governor of Washington, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">makes treatise, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Council at Walla Walla, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">goes to northern country to make treaties, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">describes Kamiakin, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">makes treaty with Flatheads, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">returns to Olympia, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">organises volunteers, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">second Council at Walla Walla, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trouble with Steptoe, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trouble with Wool, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">battle at Walla Walla, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reconnaissance for railroad in 1853, <a href="#Page_260">260</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Sticcus, Indian guide of immigrants, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tries to save the Whitman Mission, <a href="#Page_206">206</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Stuart, David, founding of Fort Okanogan, <a href="#Page_121">121</a><br />
+<br />
+Stump, Capt. T. J., on first steamer down Tumwater Falls, <a href="#Page_242">242</a><br />
+<br />
+Sturgis, profits of fur-trade, <a href="#Page_103">103</a><br />
+<br />
+Sutter, Captain, connection with discovery of gold, <a href="#Page_250">250</a><br />
+<br />
+Swan, data on income of furs, <a href="#Page_103">103</a><br />
+<br />
+Swift, Jonathan, placing of Gulliver near the coast of Oregon, <a href="#Page_47">47</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">T</span><br />
+<br />
+&#8220;Takhoma, Mt.,&#8221; origin of name, <a href="#Page_32">32</a><br />
+<br />
+Tallapus, Indian deity, <a href="#Page_33">33</a><br />
+<br />
+Tamahas, part in Whitman massacre, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br />
+<br />
+Tamsaky, in Whitman massacre, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">killed, <a href="#Page_212">212</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Taylor, Captain, part in battle of Pine Creek, <a href="#Page_226">226</a><br />
+<br />
+Telaukait, part in Whitman massacre, <a href="#Page_206">206</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Tenino</i>, the steamer, value of its business, <a href="#Page_239">239</a><br />
+<br />
+Tetons, Three, first seen by Hunt party, <a href="#Page_81">81</a><br />
+<br />
+Thompson, David, crossing the continent, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Astoria, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">remains of his fort on Lake Windermere, <a href="#Page_282">282</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Thompson, R. R., builds steamer <i>Colonel Wright</i>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">[Pg 408]</a></span><br />
+Thorn, Jonathan, disposition as captain of <i>Tonquin</i>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tyrannical course in entering Columbia River, <a href="#Page_117">117-118</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Thornton, J. Quinn, description of Oregon State House, <a href="#Page_194">194</a><br />
+<br />
+Timothy, Nez Perc&eacute; Indian guide to Steptoe&#8217;s command, save command, <a href="#Page_226">226-227</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Tonquin</i>, fitting out for Astoria, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">entrance of Columbia River, <a href="#Page_118">118-119</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">destroyed by Indians, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">account of capture, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Touchet Valley, adaptability to orchards, <a href="#Page_325">325</a><br />
+<br />
+Trappers, two general classes of, <a href="#Page_90">90</a><br />
+<br />
+Treaty with England in regard to Oregon, <a href="#Page_200">200</a><br />
+<br />
+Trevett, Vic, tomb of, <a href="#Page_337">337</a><br />
+<br />
+Troup, Capt. James, skill in running rapids, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on <i>D. S. Baker</i> over The Dalles, <a href="#Page_243">243</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">U</span><br />
+<br />
+Umatilla Plains first seen by the Hunt expedition, <a href="#Page_94">94</a><br />
+<br />
+Umatilla Rapids, singular character of, <a href="#Page_328">328</a><br />
+<br />
+Union Transportation Co. organised, <a href="#Page_237">237</a><br />
+<br />
+United States, character of claims to Oregon, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">notifies Great Britain to regain Astoria, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">V</span><br />
+<br />
+Valdez, circumnavigation of Vancouver Island, <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br />
+<br />
+Vancouver, Capt. George, as English commissioner, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">equipment for exploration, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at mouth of Columbia River, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">meets Gray, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Columbia Bar, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Vancouver Island, location of important explorations, <a href="#Page_56">56-57</a><br />
+<br />
+Vancouver, Fort, its condition as a Hudson&#8217;s Bay post, <a href="#Page_128">128-129</a><br />
+<br />
+Vancouver, city of historic interest, <a href="#Page_376">376</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">scenery, <a href="#Page_377">377</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Venture</i>, the steamer, carried over Cascades, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br />
+<br />
+Verendrye, first European to enter Rocky Mountains, <a href="#Page_70">70</a><br />
+<br />
+Villard, Henry, first arrival in Oregon, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">railroad on Columbia River, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">financial disasters, <a href="#Page_261">261</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Vizcaino, commander of Spanish fleet of exploration, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br />
+<br />
+Von Holst, opinion in regard to Calhoun&#8217;s management of the Oregon matter, <a href="#Page_198">198</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">W</span><br />
+<br />
+Walker, Rev. Elkanah, missionary to Oregon Indians, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Tshimakain, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Walker&#8217;s Prairie, location of first church, <a href="#Page_315">315</a><br />
+<br />
+Walker, Wm., account of Indians who sought the &#8220;Book of Life,&#8221; <a href="#Page_137">137</a><br />
+<br />
+Walla Walla, Fort, arrival at, by immigrants of 1843, <a href="#Page_173">173</a><br />
+<br />
+Walla Walla City, historic nature of, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">appearance and surroundings, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Whitman Mission, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Walla Walla Council of Stevens with Indians, <a href="#Page_213">213</a> <i>et seq.</i><br />
+<br />
+Wallowa Lake, beauty and historic interest of, <a href="#Page_320">320</a><br />
+<br />
+Wallula, <a href="#Page_328">328</a><br />
+<br />
+Wapatoo Island, first seen by Lewis and Clark party, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_378">378</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Wapta River, <a href="#Page_277">277</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Wasco</i>, steamer built on Columbia, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rescues victims of Indian War, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">under new management, <a href="#Page_237">237</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Washington, State, evidences of development, <a href="#Page_314">314</a> <i>et seq.</i>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">views of, from Mt. Adams, <a href="#Page_366">366</a> <i>et seq.</i></span><br />
+<br />
+Washington Territory, created by Congress, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">volunteers for Indian War, <a href="#Page_222">222</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Washougal, historic interest of, <a href="#Page_375">375</a><br />
+<br />
+Webster, Daniel, attitude on Oregon question, <a href="#Page_186">186-187</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">inclined to yield to England, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Wehatpolitan, story of, <a href="#Page_345">345</a><br />
+<br />
+Wenatchee, interest as an irrigated region, <a href="#Page_314">314</a><br />
+<br />
+Whitcomb, Lot, builds steamer of same name, <a href="#Page_235">235</a><br />
+<br />
+White, Dr. Elijah, in Oregon in 1837 as Indian agent, <a href="#Page_142">142</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_409" id="Page_409">[Pg 409]</a></span><br />
+White, Capt. Lew, commands steamer <i>Colonel Wright</i> on trip up Columbia, <a href="#Page_243">243-244</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">launches steamer <i>Forty-nine</i> on Columbia, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Whitman, Dr. Marcus, entrance upon work for Oregon Indians, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">popularity with trappers, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">return to New York, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">marriage and return to Oregon, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">his appearance and character, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">getting waggon across continent, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">among Cayuses, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">conception of value of Oregon, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">journey in midwinter to St. Louis, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">helps organise immigration of 1843, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">guides immigrants, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">doctors Indians for measles, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">assassinated, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">connection with Dr. McLoughlin, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Whitman, Mrs. Narcissa, appearance and qualities, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">her death, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Whitman massacre, <a href="#Page_206">206-208</a><br />
+<br />
+Whitman College, <a href="#Page_319">319</a><br />
+<br />
+Whitman County, agricultural resources of, <a href="#Page_316">316</a><br />
+<br />
+White Salmon River and Valley, <a href="#Page_338">338</a><br />
+<br />
+Wilkes, Lieut. Chas., commands expedition to Columbia River, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">establishes idea of unity of Pacific Coast, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">assists in equipping schooner <i>Star of Oregon</i>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">advice to settlers about a government, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Willamette River, scenery around mouth, <a href="#Page_378">378</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tributaries and Valley, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">apostrophe to, by S. L. Simpson, <a href="#Page_380">380</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Willamette Valley, general view, <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br />
+<br />
+Willamette University grows out of mission to Indians, <a href="#Page_143">143</a><br />
+<br />
+Williams in the Steptoe retreat, <a href="#Page_228">228</a><br />
+<br />
+Windermere Lake, <a href="#Page_280">280</a><br />
+<br />
+Winship brothers, project for trading company on Columbia River, <a href="#Page_109">109-113</a><br />
+<br />
+Wishpoosh, the Beaver, Indian legend, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br />
+<br />
+Wool, Gen. J. E., discord with Stevens, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a><br />
+<br />
+Wright, Colonel, campaign against Spokane Indians, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a><br />
+<br />
+Wyeth, Nathaniel, takes Methodist missionary party across continent in 1834, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">commendation by Lowell, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">plans great enterprise on Columbia, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">builds fort at mouth of Willamette, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">attracts attention to Oregon, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">Y</span><br />
+<br />
+Yakima Valley, productive capacity of, <a href="#Page_325">325</a><br />
+<br />
+Yaktana, Indian chief in adventure with Ross, <a href="#Page_127">127</a><br />
+<br />
+Young, Ewing, in California, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">drives cattle to Oregon, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">death of, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="huge">Z</span><br />
+<br />
+Zaltieri, map of America, <a href="#Page_47">47</a><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p><a name="maps" id="maps"></a>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img93tmb.jpg" alt="COLUMBIA RIVER ENTRANCE" /><br />
+<a href="images/img93.jpg"><small>Larger Image</small></a></div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img94tmb.jpg" alt="THE COLUMBIA RIVER And Surrounding Country" /><br />
+<a href="images/img94.jpg"><small>Larger Image</small></a></div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr style="width: 50%;" />
+<div class="vertsbox">
+<p class="center"><span class="giant"><i>American Waterways</i></span></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><span class="huge">The Romance of the Colorado River</span></p>
+
+<p class="note">The Story of its Discovery in 1540, with an account of the Later
+Explorations, and with Special Reference to the Voyages of Powell through
+the Line of the Great Canyons.</p>
+
+<p class="center">By Frederick S. Dellenbaugh</p>
+<p class="center">Member of the United States Colorado River Expedition of 1871 and 1872</p>
+<p class="center"><i>435 pages, with 200 Illustrations, and Frontispiece in Color. $3.50 net</i></p>
+
+<p>&#8220;His scientific training, his long experience in this region, and his eye
+for natural scenery enable him to make this account of the Colorado River
+most graphic and interesting. No other book equally good can be written
+for many years to come&mdash;not until our knowledge of the river is greatly
+enlarged.&#8221;&mdash;<i>The Boston Herald.</i></p>
+
+<p>&#8220;Mr. Dellenbaugh writes with enthusiasm and balance about his chief, and
+of the canyon with a fascination that make him disinclined to leave it,
+and brings him thirty years later to its description with undiminished
+interest.&#8221;&mdash;<i>New York Tribune.</i></p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><span class="huge">The Ohio River</span></p>
+<p class="center">A COURSE OF EMPIRE</p>
+<p class="center">By Archer B. Hulbert<br />
+Associate Professor of American History, Marietta College,<br />Author of
+&#8220;Historic Highways of America,&#8221; etc.</p>
+<p class="center"><i>390 pages, with 100 Illustrations and a Map. $3.50 net</i></p>
+
+<p>An interesting description from a fresh point of view of the international
+struggle which ended with the English conquest of the Ohio Basin, and
+includes many interesting details of the pioneer movement on the Ohio. The
+most widely read students of the Ohio Valley will find a unique and
+unexpected interest in Mr. Hulbert&#8217;s chapters dealing with the Ohio River
+in the Revolution, the rise of the cities of Pittsburg, Cincinnati, and
+Louisville, the fighting Virginians, the old-time methods of navigation,
+etc.</p>
+
+<p>&#8220;A wonderfully comprehensive and entirely fascinating book.&#8221;&mdash;<i>Chicago
+Inter-Ocean.</i></p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><span class="huge">Narragansett Bay</span></p>
+<p class="center"><i>Its Historic and Romantic Associations and Picturesque Setting</i></p>
+<p class="center">By Edgar Mayhew Bacon<br />
+Author of &#8220;The Hudson River,&#8221; &#8220;Chronicles of Tarrytown,&#8221; etc.</p>
+<p class="center"><i>340 pages, with 50 Drawings by the Author,<br />and with Numerous Photographs and a Map. $3.50 net</i></p>
+
+<p>Impressed by the important and singular part played by the settlers of
+Narragansett in the development of American ideas and ideals, and strongly
+attracted by the romantic tales that are inwoven with the warp of history,
+as well as by the incomparable setting the great bay affords for such a
+subject, the author offers this result of his labor as a contribution to
+the story of great American Waterways, with the hope that his readers may
+be imbued with somewhat of his own enthusiasm.</p>
+
+<p>&#8220;An attractive description of the picturesque part of Rhode Island. Mr.
+Bacon dwells on the natural beauties, the legendary and historical
+associations, rather than the present appearance of the shores.&#8221;&mdash;<i>N. Y.
+Sun.</i></p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><span class="huge">The Great Lakes</span></p>
+<p class="center"><i>Vessels That Plough Them, Their Owners, Their Sailors, and Their Cargoes;<br />
+together with A Brief History of Our Inland Seas</i></p>
+<p class="center">By James Oliver Curwood</p>
+<p class="center"><i>With about 80 Full-page Illustrations, $3.50 net</i></p>
+
+<p>This profusely illustrated book, as entertaining as it is informing, has
+the twofold advantage of being written by a man who knows the Lakes and
+their shores as well as what has been written about them. The general
+reader will enjoy the romance attaching to the past history of the Lakes
+and not less the romance of the present&mdash;the story of the great commercial
+fleets that plough our inland seas, created to transport the fruits of the
+earth and the metals that are dug from the bowels of the earth. To the
+business man who has interests in or about the Lakes, or to the
+prospective investor in Great Lakes enterprises, the book will be found
+suggestive. Comparatively little has been written of these fresh-water
+seas, and many of his readers will be amazed at the wonderful story which
+this volume tells.</p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><span class="huge">The St. Lawrence River</span></p>
+<p class="center"><i>Historical&mdash;Legendary&mdash;Picturesque</i></p>
+<p class="center">By George Waldo Browne<br />
+Author of &#8220;Japan&mdash;the Place and the People,&#8221; &#8220;Paradise of the Pacific,&#8221; etc.</p>
+<p class="center"><i>385 pages, with 100 Illustrations and a Map. $3.50 net</i></p>
+
+<p>While the St. Lawrence River has been the scene of many important events
+connected with the discovery and development of a large portion of North
+America, no attempt has heretofore been made to collect and embody in one
+volume a complete and comprehensive narrative of this great waterway. This
+is not denying that considerable has been written relating to it, but the
+various offerings have been scattered through many volumes, and most of
+these have become inaccessible to the general reader.</p>
+
+<p>This work presents in a consecutive narrative the most important historic
+incidents connected with the river, combined with descriptions of some of
+its most picturesque scenery and delightful excursions into to its
+legendary lore. In selecting the hundred illustrations care has been taken
+to give as wide a scope as possible to the views belonging to the river.</p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><span class="huge">The Niagara River</span></p>
+<p class="center">By Archer Butler Hulbert<br />
+Professor of American History, Marietta College;<br />author of &#8220;The Ohio
+River,&#8221; &#8220;Historic Highways of America,&#8221; etc.</p>
+<p class="center"><i>350 pages, with 70 Illustrations and Maps. $3,50 net</i></p>
+
+<p>Professor Hulbert tells all that is best worth recording of the history of
+the river which gives the book its title, and of its commercial present
+and its great commercial future. An immense amount of carefully ordered
+information is here brought together into a most entertaining and
+informing book. No mention of this volume can be quite adequate that fails
+to take into account the extraordinary chapter which is given to
+chronicling the mad achievements of that company of dare-devil bipeds of
+both sexes who for decades have been sweeping over the Falls in barrels
+and other receptacles, or who have gone dancing their dizzy way on ropes
+or wires stretched from shore to shore above the boiling, leaping water
+beneath.</p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><span class="huge">The Hudson River</span></p>
+<p class="center">FROM OCEAN TO SOURCE</p>
+<p class="center"><i>Historical&mdash;Legendary&mdash;Picturesque</i></p>
+<p class="center">By Edgar Mayhew Bacon<br />
+Author of &#8220;Chronicles of Tarrytown,&#8221; &#8220;Narragansett Bay,&#8221; etc.</p>
+<p class="center"><i>600 Pages, with 100 Illustrations,<br />including a Sectional Map of the Hudson River. $3.50 net</i></p>
+
+<p>&#8220;The value of this handsome quarto does not depend solely on the
+attractiveness with which Mr. Bacon has invested the whole subject, it is
+a kind of footnote to the more conventional histories, because it throws
+light upon the life and habits of the earliest settlers. It is a study of
+Dutch civilization in the New World, severe enough in intentions to be
+accurate, but easy enough in temper to make a great deal of humor, and to
+comment upon those characteristic customs and habits which, while they
+escape the attention of the formal historian, are full of
+significance.&#8221;&mdash;<i>Outlook.</i></p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><span class="huge">The Connecticut River</span><br />
+AND THE<br />
+<span class="huge">Valley of the Connecticut</span></p>
+<p class="center">THREE HUNDRED AND FIFTY MILES FROM MOUNTAIN TO SEA</p>
+<p class="center"><i>Historical and Descriptive</i></p>
+<p class="center">By Edwin Munroe Bacon<br />
+Author of &#8220;Walks and Rides in the Country Round About Boston,&#8221; etc.</p>
+<p class="center"><i>500 Pages, with 100 Illustrations and a Map. $3.50 net</i></p>
+
+<p>From ocean to source every mile of the Connecticut is crowded with
+reminders of the early explorers, of the Indian wars, of the struggle of
+the Colonies, and of the quaint, peaceful village existence of the early
+days of the Republic. Beginning with the Dutch discovery, Mr. Bacon traces
+the interesting movements and events which are associated with this chief
+river of New England.</p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><span class="huge">The Columbia River</span></p>
+<p class="center"><i>Its History&mdash;Its Myths&mdash;Its Scenery&mdash;Its Commerce</i></p>
+<p class="center">By William Denison Lyman<br />
+Professor of History in Whitman College, Walla Walla, Washington</p>
+<p class="center"><i>Fully Illustrated</i></p>
+
+<p>This is the first effort to present a book distinctively on the Columbia
+River. It is the intention of the author to give some special prominence
+to Nelson and the magnificent lake district by which it is surrounded. As
+the joint possession of the United States and British Columbia, and as the
+grandest scenic river of the continent, the Columbia is worthy of special
+attention.</p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p><strong><i>In Preparation:</i></strong></p>
+
+<p><i>Each will be fully illustrated and will probably be published at $3.50
+net</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="huge">1.&mdash;Inland Waterways</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 6em;">By Herbert Quick</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="huge">2.&mdash;The Mississippi River</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 6em;">By Julius Chambers</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="huge">3.&mdash;The Story of the Chesapeake</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 6em;">By Ruthella Mory Bibbins</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="huge">4.&mdash;Lake George and Lake Champlain</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 6em;">By W. Max Reid</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 8em;">Author of &#8220;The Mohawk Valley,&#8221; &#8220;The Story of Old Fort Johnson,&#8221; etc.</span></p></div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Columbia River, by William Denison Lyman
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+</pre>
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+</body>
+</html>
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author	Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>	2025-10-14 20:12:39 -0700
committer	Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>	2025-10-14 20:12:39 -0700
commit	5893ffbbe60ea89c0a5d367dab6577e78c3b9b7e (patch)
tree	54f3a1a10f46d41ccba07ac4123b41fecc19ccf7 /39388-h